THE SIX VOYAGES OF JOHN BAPTISTA TAVERNIER, BARON of AUBONNE; THROUGH Turkey, INTO Persia AND THE EASTINDIES, For the space of Forty Years. GIVING An Account of the present STATE of those Countries, Viz. Of the RELIGION, GOVERNMENT, CUSTOMS, and COMMERCE of every Country; and the Figures, Weight, and Value of the MONEY currant all over ASIA. TO WHICH IS ADDED, A new Description of the SERAGLIO. Made English by J. P. ADDED LIKEWISE, A VOYAGE INTO THE INDIES, etc. By an English Traveller, never before Printed: Published by Dr DANIEL COX. LONDON: Printed by WILLIAM GODBID, for ROBERT LITTLEBURY at the King's Arms in Little Britain, and MOSES PITT at the Angel in St Paul's Churchyard. 1677. THE SIX VOYAGES OF JOHN BAPTISTA TAVERNIER, BARON of AUBONNE; THROUGH Turkey INTO Persia, AND THE EASTINDIES, For the space of Forty Years. GIVING AN Account of the Present STATE of those Countries, viz. Of the RELIGION, GOVERNMENT, CUSTOMS, and COMMERCE of every Country; and the Figures, Weight and Value of the MONEY currant all over ASIA. To which is added The Description of the SERAGLIO. Made ENGLISH by J. P. ADDED LIKEWISE A VOYAGE INTO THE INDIES, etc. By an English Traveller, never before Printed. LONDON: Printed, and sold by Robert Littlebury, at the King's-Arms in Little Britain, and Moses Pit, at the Angel in St. Paul's Churchyard 1678. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE Sr Thomas Davies, Kt Lord Mayor of the City of LONDON. My Lord, IT cannot be thought that the Author of these Travels had he verily believed that thereby he had eminently served his King and Country, would have adventured a Dedication to so great a Monarch as the King of France: Wherein he presumes to tell him, that he was the person that had brought him from the Indies the fairest Jewels that at present adorn his Crown; for which & several other services done the Kingdom, His M tie. honoured him with the Title of Noble. And indeed it is not probable that a Potentate so wise and so discerning, had he not been convinced of the merit and good service of his Subject, would have received him with that esteem, or have honoured him with that Title which he bestowed upon him. As for the Truth of what is here comprised, there is his own Asseveration to his Prince of the Exactness which he has observed in that particular; which there is the less reason to misdoubt, in regard he has been public in the World for some time with-not the least blemish of Contradiction. Be pleased then, My, Lord to consider the quality of this Work, and as you are in high Dignity, governing that Famous City which has so great a share in the Traffic of the Oriental world, vouchsafe it your acceptance, as it is now made serviceable to this City and the whole Nation by My Lord Your Lordship's most obedient Servant I Phillips. TO THE MOST ACCOMPLISHED AND EMINENTLY LEARNED D R. DANIEL COX Doctor of PHYSIC Sir, SInce 'tis the Mode of the Age, that no Book comes forth without a Dedication, I hope I shall not be blamed for addressing these Travels to yourself, as being the Person that has contributed so much to the Ornament and Perfection of the whole Work. Hereby have I saved the labour of making Encomiums upon an Author, of whom You have testified your Approbation, by the Encouragement You gave the Publisher. Nor is it reasonable, that TAVERNIER coming into England, should prefer others before a person that hath showed him particular kindnesses. For my part, after I had taken a Prospect of your personal Candour, I knew not where to give so choice a Stranger better Accommodation: not without some regard to myself; since I could not think that he who had been so kind to the Original Author, would be an Enemy to his Interpreter. Upon which score, as I presumed at first, I hope You will pardon the farther presumption of styling myself, SIR, Your most Humble Servant, J. PHILLIPS. THE DESIGN OF THE AUTHOR. Where he gives a brief Relation of his first Travels through the best parts of Europe as far as Constantinople. IF the effect of Education may be likened to a second Birth, I may truly say, that I came into the World with a desire to travel. The daily discourses which several Learned men had with my Father upon Geographical subjects, which my Father had the reputation of understanding very well, and to which, though very young, I was with much delight attentive, inspired me betimes with a design to see some part of those Countries, which were represented to me in the Maps, from which I never could keep off my Eyes. By two and twenty years of Age, therefore I had seen the fairest Regions of Europe, France, England, the Low Countries, Germany, Switzerland, Poland, Hungary, and Italy; and I spoke indifferently well the Languages most necessary and most generally spoken. My first sally was into England, where at that time Reigned King James; from thence I passed into Flanders to see Antwerp, my Father's Native Country, and so into the Low Countries, where my inclination to travel became the stronger, by reason of the great concourse of Strangers which I met at Amsterdam, that crowded thither from all parts of the World. Having seen what was most considerable in the united Provinces, I passed into Germany, and when I came to Norimbergh, by the way of Frankfort and Auspurgh, the noise of the Armies that were marching into Bohemia to retake Prague, instilled into me a desire to go to the Wars, where I might learn something that might be useful to me in the series of my travels. I was not above a days journey from Norimbergh, when I met a Colonel of Horse, whose name was Hans Brener, the Son of Philip Brener, Governor of Vienna, who engaged me to follow him into Bohemia. Sometime after I bore the same Colonel company to Vienna, who presented me to the Governor of Raab, his Uncle, than Viceroy of Hungary also; who received me into his Family as one of his Pages. For it is a usual thing in Germany for Gentleman's Sons to serve in that quality till five and twenty years of age, and seldom to quit that service, till they have a Commission for a Cornet, or Ensigns place. Four years and a half I served the Viceroy, when the Prince of Mantua came to Vienna, to engage the Emperor in certain designs of his own without success. At that time the Count of Arc, whose Sister the Viceroy had Married, was chief Minister to the Prince of Mantua; and coming to visit the Viceroy at Javarin, I was appointed to attend him during his stay there. Upon his departure, he told the Viceroy, that the Prince of Mantua had no person about him that understood the Language, and that therefore he might be sure that the Prince would take it for a great kindness, to permit me to attend his person during his stay at the Emperors Court. This was a thing easily granted to the Count of Arc; who thereupon carried one along with him to Vienna, where having had the good fortune not to displease the Prince, he testified to me at his departure, that he should be glad to see me at Mantua, where he would not forget the services I had done him. This presently infused into me a desire of seeing Italy, especially upon the opportunity that offered itself not long after. For Monsieur de Sabran, the King of France's Envoy to his Imperial Majesty, being to go for Venice, and desirous of one that understood the Germane Language to bear him Company, I laid hold of the occasion, so that in eight days we got to Venice. While we stayed at Venice, I took a view to my great satisfaction, of that most Celebrated City, and in regard it is in many things like to Amsterdam, as in Situation, Greatness, Magnificence, Commerce, and Concourse of Strangers, my being there did but still reinforce my inclination to Travel. From Venice I went to Mantua with Monsieur de Sabran, where the Prince being glad to see me again, gave me my choice of an Ensign, or of a place in the Company of the Ordonnance of the Duke his Father. I accepted the latter, as being glad to be under the Command of the Conde de Guiche, who was then Captain. At the Siege of Mantua I had like to have been slain, but for the goodness of a Cuirass which I had chosen out of the Prince's Magazine, being hit with two Bullets above and upon the left pap, which had entered, had not my Arms been excellent proof: So that after I was recovered of my Bruises, a longer stay at Mantua did not agree with my desire to travel. Therefore some time after the Siege was raised, I took leave of the Prince, who gave me an honourable Pass, by virtue whereof five or six Horsemen bore me Company back to Venice. From Venice I went to Lauretta, from Lauretta to Rome, from Rome to Naples, from whence returning to Rome again, I stayed there ten or twelve days. After that I went to see Florence, Pisa, Ligorn, and Genoa, from whence I Embarked for Marseilles. From Marseilles I hasted to Paris, where I could not stay long; for being desirous to see Poland, I passed once more into Germany through Switzerland, after I had taken a survey of the principal Towns of the Cantons. I went by the Rhine by Water, to visit Strasburgh and Brisack; thence by Land crossing Suabia, I passed through Ulme and Auspurgh to go to Munich. There I saw the Magnificent Palace of the Dukes of Bavaria, which William the fifth began, and which Maximilian his Son finished, in the heat of the Wars that troubled the Empire. From thence I went the second time to Norimbergh, and Prague, and leaving Bohemia I entered into Silesia, and passed the Oder at B●eslaw. From Breslaw I went to Cracovia, one of the greatest Cities of Europe, or rather a Town composed of three Cities, the ancient Seat of the King of Poland. From thence, keeping the Vistula upon the left hand, I went to Warsaw, and saw there the Court of King Sigismond, which is a noble and splendid Habitation. From Warsaw I returned to Breslaw, taking the Road toward the Lower Silesia, designing to visit one of the principal Officers of the Emperor's Household, who was my particular acquaintance. But about two Leagues from Glogaw, meeting with Colonel Butler, a Scotch Gentleman, Colonel of one of the Emperor's Regiments of Horse, who afterwards killed Walesteyne in pursuance of the Orders he received, I gave over my first intended journey. His Wife was a great lover of the French, so that being earnestly obliged by both together, I could not withstand the testimonies of their kindness. There I understood that the Emperor was going to Ratisbone with his Son Ferdinand the Third, to Crown him King of the Romans, so that I, who had seen the Coronations of the Kings of Hungary and Bohemia, being desirous to see the third Solemnity also, took leave of my Colonel, and hasted to Ratisbone. At that time arrived to Ratisbone several Jewellers, one of which came to his end by an accident so tragical, that all the whole Court pitied his untimely fate. He was the only Son of one of the riohest Merchants of Europe, that lived in Frankfort, whose Father had sent him with Jewels to sell at the Coronation. For fear of being Robbed he had conveyed them before into the hands of a Jew in Ratisbone, his Correspondent, to be delivered to his Son at his coming. This young man arriving at Ratisbone, went to the Jew, who told him that he had received a small Casket of Jewels from his Father, which he might take away, when he pleased. At the same time the Jew invited the young man to drink, and carried him to a public House upon the Key of the City, where they continued till about an hour after day was shut in. At this time, both going out together, the Jew led the young man through a private Street where few people passed by, and there having stabbed him five or six times in the Belly with a Dagger, left him wallowing in his Blood. A while after, one of the Emperor's Trumpets going that way in the dark, stumbled at the Legs of the unfortunate youth, who still breathed, and fell upon his Body. At first feeling his hands wet, he thought it had been some drunken fellow that had eased his stomach; but upon second thoughts, imaging it might be some wounded person, he ran and called the Officers, who coming with Lanterns, beheld the tropic spectacle of a young man weltering in his own gore. Thereupon the Officers carrying the Body to the same public House, as being next at hand, his face was no sooner washed, but the Woman and Maid of the House knew him to be the same young man that had been there drinking with the Jew not long before. But as for the young man he presently expired, without being able to make the least discovery. However the Jew was seized that evening, and being seized, confessed the Crime. The Imperial Laws ordain, that a Jew for killing a Christian should be hung upon a Gibbet by the Heels, and that two fierce Dogs should be hung by him in the same manner, to the end, that the Dogs in their madness should tear out his Bowels. But the Jews made such presents to the Empress that the Sentence was changed, though the punishment was not much less rigorous. For his flesh was torn with red hot Pincers from several parts of his body, in several Streets of the City, and boiling Lead poured into the raw wounds; after which he was broken alive upon the wheel, at the public place of Execution. Being upon my departure from Ratisbone, I met with Father Joseph, Resident there for the King of France, who knowing me in Paris, proposed to me to go along with the Monsieur, the Abbot of Chapes, Brother of the Marshal de Aumont, and Monsieur St. Liebau, who were then intending for Constantinople, and so for Palestine. I liked the proposition well, and immediately put myself into the Society of those two Gentlemen, from whom I never separated till they departed for Syria from Constantinople. But before we left Germany, we resolved to see the Court of Savony, whither we got in a few days. By the way we passed through Freybergh, a small City, but well worth seeing, for the beauty of the Electors Tombs, and most splendid and magnificent both for Materials and Workmanship in all Europe. From thence we went and viewed the stately Castle of Augustburgh, seated upon a high Mountain, wherein among other things there is a great Hall, adorned from top to bottom with nothing but Horns fastened to the Wall; among the rest is the Head of a Hare with two Horns, sent the Elector by the King of Denmark for a great Rarity. In one of the Courts of the Palace stands a Tree so large in Body, and spreading out the Branches at so wide a distance, that they will cover three hundred sixty five Tables with their shade. And that which makes this Tree more wonderful is, that it is only Birch, that rarely grows to that Immensity. Dresde is the Residence of the Elector, a little City, but a very near one, and well fortified; with a Stone Bridge over the Elbe, that parts the Old and New Town. The Palace is one of the largest and fairest in Germany. But it wants a Piazza before it, the principal Gate standing just at the bottom of a narrow Lane. From Dresde we went to Prague, which was a third time that I saw that great and fair City, or rather three Cities together, only separated by the Molda, that throws itself into the Elbe, some five or six Leagues below. Having traversed Bohemia, and touched upon the corner of Moravia, we entered Austria, and came to Vienna, resolving there to Embark with all speed, because the Winter came on. We stayed one day at Presburgh to see the great Church, and some Relics which they showed us, and from thence fell down to Altenburgh. Altenburgh is a City and Province belonging to the Count of Arach. It was the Child's part of one of the Queens of Hungary, who upon her deathbed bequeathed it to one of the Lords of her Court, upon condition that he and his Successors should always keep such a number of Peacocks; for defect whereof, the Territory should revert to the Crown. Thence we came to Signet, from whence I took a little Boat and hasted to Raab, where I did my Devoirs to the Viceroy, who was glad to see me, and gave noble entertainment to the Messieurs de Chapes, and de St. Liebau. Here we stayed eight or ten days for the Bassa of Budas Answer, whether he would give liberty to two French Gentlemen, to pass with their Train through his Garrison or no; which being returned such as we could desire, we Embarked at Comorra in a sort of Brigantines well fitted for defence and convenience. From Vienna to Javarin we laid three days upon the water, by reason of the great turn and wind of the Dunaw. Leaving Javarin we lay at Comorra; and from Comorra we rowed to Buda in two days. For the Road by Land is seldom travelled, in regard that the Frontiers of both Empires are full of Thiefs and Boothalers. In fair weather you may go from Bada to Belgrade in less than eight days, but we were forced to stay longer upon the Water, in regard of the Cold weather. It is the custom in Hungary, that in all Roads little frequented by Strangers, not to take any Money of the Traveller; For the Burghers lodge and entertain them civilly, for which the Burgo Master at the years end repays them out of the public stock. But besides, that they are not troubled with many passengers; Hungary, which is one of the best Countries in Europe, affords provision at so cheap a rate, that to Belgrade it costs us not above two Crowns a day for fourteen people. Buda stands upon the right hand of the Danaw, about half an hours travelling from the River. The Bassa being advised of our arrival, sent his Squire with led Horses, and several Slaves in very good Liveries to conduct us to the Town. And though we stayed twelve days before we could speak with him, by reason of his being sick at that time, yet he allowed us a fair provision of Mutton, Pullet's, Rice, Butter, and Bread, and two Sequins a day for small expenses. He was a comely person, and of a handsome carriage; and at our departure, he sent six Caleshes with two spahis to conduct us to Belgrade, with order to defray our expenses, which would by no means be accepted. Coming to Belgrade we found the Sangiai as rude, as we had found the Bassa civil before. For he made a ridiculous demand of two hundred Ducats a Head, and for fifteen days prolonged the contest. But at length I so terrified him, by threatening to send our Complaints to the Ottoman Port, of his ill usage of two Gentlemen; kinsmen to the Ambassador of France, that he was contented with fifty Ducats for all. Belgrade is situated upon a point of Land, where two great Rivers, the Danaw and the Sava meet; and is furnished with Wine, Bread, and all sorts of provisions at a cheap rate. From Belgrade we took some Saddle Horses, some Coaches for Adrianople, as every one liked best. We passed through Sophia, a large and well peopled City, the Metropolis of the ancient Bulgarians, and the residence of the Bassa of Romeli. In it stands a fair Mosque, which hath been a Christian Church, built with so much Art, that three men may go up to the top of the Steeple, and not see one another. From Sophia we came to Philippoli, between which Town and Adrianople we met with two Troops of Tartars well mounted. When they saw us, they made a Lane for us to pass through them, with a design most certainly to have fallen upon us; since they could not hope to do any good upon us, but by surprise and number; for they were ill provided of Weapons, and we rarely well Armed. Thereupon we alighted and Barricadoed up ourselves with our Chariots. In the mean time we sent our spahis to the Commander of those Tartars, to tell them, we would not stir till they were gone, and that being Soldiers as they were, they could not hope for any booty from us. The Commander answered, that he had divided his men in that manner only to do us Honour; but since we desired they should be gone, they requested us but to send them a little Tobacco. A boon which we readily granted them, and so we passed on. We came to Adrianople the three and twentieth day after we parted from Belgrade. Adrianople takes its name from the Emperor Adrian, being formerly called Orestes. It is pleasantly situated at the mouth of three Rivers that throw themselves into the Archipelago. The old Town is not very big, but the Turks daily enlarge the Suburbs, being a place which the Grand Signors very much delight in for the pleasures of Hunting and Hawking, especially at the wild Duck and Heron. The fifth day after we departed from Adrianople, and the forty second after we departed from Vienna, we happily arrived at Constantinople, and crossing through the City over to Galata, went to the Ambassador's House. While we stayed there to winter, we made a small Voyage to the Dardanells, to the Ruins of Troy, where we beheld nothing but Stones, not worth the while of going so far to see. Another day we took three Barks and Sailed to Chalcedon, that lies upon the Sea. There is in it a very ancient Church; and they showed us the Room where the Council was held, with the same Chairs which were then made use of. Now it is only a Monastery, where two Bishops after they had showed us what they could, handsomely entertained us. Then we went to view Pompey's Pillar at the mouth of the Black Sea. Concerning the Channel of which Sea, I must make one Observation; that though there be no part of the Sea but has one Current, yet this has two quite contrary one to another. That part next to Europe carries the Vessel to the Black Sea; and that next Asia brings it back again to the Mediterranean. So that you have no more to do but to cross over from one Shore to the other. The Winter being over, the two French Gentlemen pursued their Voyage for Alexandretta. But for my part, I having another design in my head, stayed at Constantinople, in expectation of a Caravan, which the people told me from Month to Month was coming. I was then ignorant, and did not understand that every year there were five or six Caravans that went from Bursa. Besides, that sometimes eight or ten Merchants travelling together, might go safe to Ispahan. Which ignorance of mine made me stay longer than I intended. At length, after I had continued eleven Months in Constantinople, I departed with a fair and numerous Caravan for Ispahan, which was the first time I travelled into Asia. After that I made five others, wherein I had time better to understand the Qualities of the Countries, and the Genius of the People. The three last times I went beyond Gauges, to the Island of Java; so that for the space of forty years, I have travelled above sixty thousand Leagues by Land; never returning but once into Europe by Sea. And thus in my six Voyages, and by travelling different Roads, I had the leisure and opportunity to see all Turkey, all Persia, and all India; particularly the famous Diamond Mines, where no European had been before me. Of these three great Empires therefore have I resolved to make an ample and exact Description: and I will begin with the several Roads which may be taken from Paris into Persia. These Computations are made, supposing a French Crown to be in value Sterling 54 pence, or 4 s. 6 d. the reputed Par, and that 12 Deniers make a Sous, 20 Sous a Liver; whereof 3 make an Escu. By which Computation 10 Sous is in value 9 d. and 10 Deniers 3 q. Persian Money. French. English. l. s. d. q. ABassi 18 Sous, 6 Deniers 0 01 04 2⅗ 3 Abasses and 1 Chayet 1 Ecu 0 04 06 2 Mamoudi's 1 Abassi 0 01 04 0⅖ 2 Chayets 1 Mamoudi 0 00 08 0⅕ Casbeké Simple 5 Deniers, 1 Halfpenny 0 00 01 2 4●/100 Double Casbeké 11 Deniers 0 00 03 0 8●/100 Bisti 1 2 Double Casbekés 0 00 06 1 74/100 Chayets 1 5 Double Casbekés 0 00 04 0⅕ 1 Or 5 Abassi's 0 06 11 1 1 Toman 46 Livers, 1 Denier, ⅕ Piastre 3 09 00 0 9/●5 Indian Money. French. English. l. s. d. q. Larins' 5 1 Ecu French, within 8 Sous 0 03 10 3⅕ Demi-Larins 10 Half as much 0 01 11 1⅗ Roupy of Gold 21 Livers 1 11 06 Roupy of Gold 30 Sous 0 02 03 Pecha 6 Deniers 0 00 00 1⅘ Half Roupy 16 Sous 0 01 02 1⅗ Quarter of a Roupy 7 Sous, 6 Deniers 0 00 06 3 Pagods Demi-Pistol (in Gold a Pistol is 11 Livers) 0 08 03 Fano's 6 1 Ecu 0 04 06 Cheda Money 1. 2. 2 Sous 0 00 01 3 ●/5 Cheda 3. 4. 4 Deniers 0 00 00 1 ●/5 Achen Gold 16 Sous, 8 Deniers 0 01 03 Macassar Gold 23 Sous, 8 Deniers 0 01 09 1 ●/5 Camboya Silver 4 Sous 0 00 03 2 ●/5 Siam Gold 7 Livers, 1 Sous 0 10 06 3⅗ Siam Silver 32 Sous, 4 Deniers 0 02 05 0⅖ Asem Silver 23 Sous 0 01 08 2⅘ Tipoura Silver 22 Sous 0 01 07 3⅕ Arakan Money 21 Sous 0 01 06 3 ●/5 Pegu Silver 20 Sous, 6 Deniers 0 01 06 1⅘ Gold Fanos 15. 1 Real 0 04 04 Asem Fanos 22. 1 Ecu 0 04 06 China Goltschut 1350 Livers 101 05 00 China Silver pieces 59 Sous, 8 Deniers 0 04 05 2⅘ Japon Gold, Nᵒ 1. 87 Livers, 10 Sous 6 11 03 Nᵒ 2. 3. 29 Livers, 31 Sous, 4 Deniers 2 05 10 1 Japon Silver pieces 30 Sous 0 02 03 Silver Ingots, Nᵒ 1. 24 Livers, 10 Sous 1 16 09 2. 8 Livers, 10 Sous, 7 Deniers 0 12 09 2 1/10 3. 4 Livers, 5 Sous, 5 Deniers 0 06 04 3½ 4. 3 Livers, 10 Sous, 11 Deniers 0 05 03 3 ●/10 5. 3 Livers, 8 Sous, 8 Deniers 0 05 01 3⅕ 6. 1 Liver, 5 Sous, 1 Denier 0 01 10 2 5/10 7. 1 Liver, 9 Deniers 0 01 06 2 7/10 8. 16 Sous, 4 Deniers 0 01 02 2⅘ A Tell 4 Livers, 5 Sous 0 06 04 2 Muscovy Gold 20 Sous, 1 Denier, 1 Halfpenny 0 01 06 0 3/10 Muscovy Silver 1 Sous 0 00 00 3⅖ THE CONTENTS OF THE Persian Travels. The First BOOK of Monsieur TAVERNIER's Persian Travels. Of the several Roads from Paris to Ispahan the chief City of Persia, through the Northern Provinces of Turkey. Chap. I. OF the Roads from France to the hither parts of Asia, and the places from whence they usually set out for Ispahan. Pag. 1 Chap. II. Of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, which the Author kept in his first Travels into Persia. 3 Chap. III. A continuation of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, from the Borders of Persia to Erivan. 10 Chap. IV. A continuation of the same Road from Erivan to Tauris. 15 Chap. V A continuation of the Constantinopolitan Road from Tauris to Ispahan, through Ardeüil and Casbin. 24 Chap. VI The ordinary Road from Tauris to Ispahan, through Zangan, Sultany, and other places. 26 Chap. VII. Of the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan, through Anatolia. 32 Chap. VIII. How the Author was robbed near Tocat, and of a certain sort of a rare and fine Wool, which he first brought into France. 40 Chap. IX. Of the Road from Kerman to Ispahan, and the fortune of Nazar Mahomet-Ali-Beg. 42 Chap. X. Of the Caravansera's, and Government of the Caravans. 45 Chap. XI. Of the breeding, nature, and several sorts of camels. 49 Chap. XII. Of the Coins and Money of Persia. 50 The Second BOOK of the Persian Travels of Monsieur TAVERNIER; containing the several Roads from Paris to Ispahan, the Capital City of Persia, through the Southern Provinces of Turkey, and through the Deserts. Chap. I. THe second Voyage of the Author from Paris to Ispahan, and first of his Embarking at Marseilles for Alexandretta. 53 Chap. II. The Description of Aleppo, now the Capital City of Syria. 57 Chap. III. Of the several Roads in general from Aleppo to Ispahan, and particularly of the Road through the Great Desert. Pag. 60 Chap. iv Of the Road from Aleppo to Ispahan, through Mesopotamia and Assyria, which I travelled in my third Voyage to the Indies. 66 Chap. V A Continuation of the Road from Nineveh to Ispahan, together with the Story of an Ambassador called Dominico de Santis. 72 Chap. VI Of the Road which the Author kept, when he travelled the fourth time into Asia, to go from Paris to Ormus. And first of his Voyage from Marseilles to Alexandretta. 78 Chap. VII. A Continuation of the Road which the Author kept in the fourth Voyage into Asia, and particularly of his passage upon the Tigris from Nineveh to Babylon. 82 Chap. VIII. A Continuation of the Road from Bagdat to Balsara, and of the Religion of the Christians of St. John. 87 Chap. IX. A Continuation of the Road from Balsara to Ormus. 94 Chap. X. Of the Author's first Voyage, and the Adventures of the four Frenchmen. 95 The Third BOOK of the Persian Travels of Monsieur TAVERNIER, containing the Author's Sixth and Last Voyages, and the Roads through Turkey into Persia, through the Northern Provinces of Europe. With a Description of several Countries, lying upon the Black and Caspian Seas. Chap. I. OF the Author's sixth and last Voyage from his setting out of Paris, to his Landing at Smyrna. 99 Chap. II. A Continuation of the Author's sixth Voyage, as he travelled from Smyrna to Ispahan. 102 Chap. III. The Road from Aleppo to Tauris, through Diarbequir and Van. 103 Chap. IV. Another Road from Aleppo to Tauris, through Geziré and other places. 108 Chap. V The Road from Aleppo to Ispahan through the Small Desert, and through Kengavar. 109 Chap. VI Another Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, by the Euxine or Black Sea; with some Remarks upon the principal Cities there abouts. 113 Chap. VII. The Road from Warsow to Ispahan, over the Black Sea, and from Ispahan to Moscow; with the names of the principal Cities and Islands of Turkey, according to the vulgar pronunciation, as they are called in the Language of the Turks, 115 Chap. VIII. Remarks upon the Trade of the Island of Candy, and the principal Isles of the Archipelago; as also upon some of the Cities of Greece adjoining; with a particular Relation of the present condition of the Grand Signor's Galleys, belonging as well to the Isles as to the Continent. 118 Chap. IX. A Relation of the present State of Georgia. 123 Chap. X. A Relation of the present State of Mengrelia. 125 Chap. XI. Of Comania, Circassia, and of certain people which they call Kalmouches. 126 Chap. XII. Of the Ceremonies and Customs of the people of Comania and Circassia. 129 Chap. XIII. Of the lesser Tartars, called Nogays, bordering upon Comania. 132 The Fourth BOOK of the Travels of Monsieur TAVERNIER, being a Description of Persia. Chap. I. OF the Extent of Persia, and its Division into Provinces. 141 Chap. II. Of the Flowers and Fruits of Persia, of Turquoises and Pearls. 144 Chap. III. Of the Beasts of Service, of the Fish and Fowl of Persia. 145 Chap. iv Of the manner of Building in Persia. 147 Chap. V A Description of Ispahan, the chief City of the Kingdom and Dominion of the King of Persia. 148 Chap. VI Of Zulpha, a City separated from Ispahan by the River Senderou. 155 Chap. VII. Of the Religion of the Persians; of the great Feast of Hocen and Hussein, and the Camel-Feast. 160 Chap. VIII. Of the Religion of the Gaurs, the Relics of the ancient Persians, Adorers of Fire. 163 Chap. IX. Of the Religion of the Armenians, and of their principal Ceremonies; and how the Armenians Consecrate and Administer the Sacrament. 169 Chap. X. Of the Ordination of their Priesthood; and their Austerities. 170 Chap. XI. Of their Baptism. 171 Chap. XII. Of the Marriage of the Armenians. 172 Chap. XIII. How the Armenians Bury their Dead. 173 Chap. XIV. Examples of the Constancy of the Armenians, in maintaining their Religion against the Persecutions of the Mahometans. 174 Chap. XV. Of the Author's Reception at the Court of Persia in his sixth and last Voyage, and what he did there during his stay at Ispahan. 177 Chap. XVI. Of the Honours and Presents which the Author received from the King of Persia. 179 Chap. XVII. How the King was pleased to divertise himself in the Author's Company. 181 The Fifth BOOK of the Persian Travels of Monsieur TAVERNIER, being a Politic and Historical Description of Persia, with the Roads from Ispahan to Ormus. Chap. I. OF the Genealogy of the Kings of Persia, of the last Race. 195 Chap. II. Of certain particular Actions which denote the Virtues and Vices of the Kings of Persia, from Sha-Abas the first, to Sha-Soliman the present King. And first of Sha-Abas the Great. 202 Chap. III. Of what fell out most memorable in the Reign of Sha-Sefi the first; and particularly of the Death of Iman-Kouli-Kan, and his three Sons. Pag. 198 Chap. IV. The Tragical and memorable Story of Ralph Sadler, Native of Zurich, in the Reign of Sha-Sefi, who had retained him in his Service. 207 Chap. V Of some particulars under the Reign of Sha-Abas the second. 199 Chap. VI Of the misfortune of Mahomet-Beg, in the Reign of Sha-Abas the second. 212 Chap. VII. Of the Rebellion of the Prince of Jasque, a Vassal to the King of Persia, in the Reigns of Sha-Sefi the first, and Sha-Abas the second. 217 Chap. VIII. Observations upon the Reign of Sha-Solimon the present King. 218 Chap. IX. Of the Government of Persia. 219 Chap. X. Of the first of the three Orders or States of Persia, which comprehends the King's Household, the Khans or Governors of Provinces, and the Soldiery. 221 Chap. XI. Of the second Order, containing all those that belong to the Ecclesiastical Law, and their Courts of Justice; and in general of all the Gownsmen, such as are chief the Officers of the Chamber of Accounts. 226 Chap. XII. Of the third Estate of the Kingdom, comprehending the Tradesmen and Merchants; as also the Trades, Manufactures, and Commodities of Persia. 229 Chap. XIII. Of the Justice and Policy of the Persians. 232 Chap. XIV. Of the Manners and Customs of the Persians. 234 Chap. XV. Of the Diseases of Persia, and the manner of Curing them. 239 Chap. XVI. Of the Division of Time among the Persians. 240 Chap. XVII. Of the Feasts and ordinary Diet of the Persians. 241 Chap. XVIII. Of the Marriages of the Persians. 243 Chap. XIX. Of the Death and Burial of the Persians. 244 Chap. XX. The Author departs from Ispahan to Ormus, and describes the Road to Schiras. 245 Chap. XXI. Of the City of Schiras. 247 Chap. XXII. A Continuation of the Road from Ispahan to Ormus, from Schiras to Bander-Abassi. 251 Chap. XXIII. Of the Island of Ormus, and of Bander-Abassi. 225 Chap. XXIV. Of the Roads by Land from Casbin to Ispahan, to the Frontiers of the Territories of the Great Mogul through Candahar. 257 THE CONTENTS OF THE Indian Travels. The Figures of the Pieces of Gold, Silver, and Copper; and of the sorts of Shells and Almonds that pass for Money over all Asia. THe Money of Arabia. Pag. 1 The Money currant under the Dominions of the Great Mogul. 2 The Money of a King and two rajas, all three Tributaries to the Great Mogul. 3 Pieces of Gold called Pagods, which are currant in the Territories of the King of Golconda, the King of Visapour, the Great Raja of Carnatica, the Raja of Velouche, and at the Diamond Mines. 4 The Money which the English and Hollanders Coin in the Indies. 5 The Money of the King of Cheda and Pera. 6 The Money of Gold and Tin of the King of Achen, with the Money in Gold, Coined by the King of Macassar, and the Celebes. And the Silver and Copper Money of the King of Camboya. 7 The Money in Gold, Silver, and Copper, of the King of Siam. Ibid. The Gold and Silver Money of the King of Asem, Tipoura, Arakin, and Pegu. 8 Lumps or Pieces of Gold and Silver, which go for Money in the Kingdom of China, and the Kingdom of Tunquin. Ibid. The Gold and Silver Money of Japon. 9 The Portraiture of the Silver Ingots of Japon, which go for Money. Ibid. Money that represents the Figures of the twelve Signs; and which were Coined during the twenty four hours, that Jehan-Guir, King of the Indies, permitted Queen Nourmahall, his Wife, to Reign in his stead. 10 The Gold, Silver, and Copper Money, which the Portugals Coin in the East-Indies. 12 The Gold and Silver Money of Muscovy. 13 The First BOOK of the INDIAN Travels. What Roads to take in Travelling from Ispahan to Agra, from Agra to Dehly and Gehanabat, where the Great Mogul resides at present: And how to Travel also to the Court of the King of Golconda, to the King of Visapour, and to many other places in the Indies. Chap. I. THe Road from Ispahan to Agra through Gomron, where is particularly described the manner of Sailing from Ormus to Surat. Pag. 15 Chap. II. Of the Customs, Money, Exchange, Weight, and Measures of the Indians. 17 Chap. III. Of their Carriages, and the manner of travelling in India. 27 Chap. IV. The Road from Surat to Agra, through Brampour and Seronge. 30 Chap. V The Road from Surat to Agra, through Amadabat. 36 Chap. VI The Road from Ispahan to Agra, through Candahar. 43 Chap. VII. The continuance of the same Road from Dehly to Agra. 48 Chap. VIII. The Road from Agra to Patna and Daca, Cities in the Province of Bengala, and of the quarrel which the Author had with Cha-Est-Kan, the King's Uncle. 51 Chap. IX. The Road from Surat to Golconda. 60 Chap. X. Of the Kingdom of Golconda, and the Wars which it has maintained for some few years last passed. 63 Chap. XI. The Road from Golconda to Maslipatan, or Masalipatan. 69 Chap. XII. The Road from Surat to Goa, and from Goa to Golconda, through Visapour. 71 Chap. XIII. Observations upon the present State of the City of Goa. 74 Chap. XIV. What the Author did during his stay at Goa, the last time he went thither, in the year 1648. 78 Chap. XV. The Story of Father Ephraim, and how he was put into the Inquisition at Goa by a surprisal. 85 Chap. XVI. The Road from Goa to Maslipatan through Cochin, here described in the Story of the taking of that City by the Hollanders. 88 Chap. XVII. The passage by Sea from Ormus to Maslipatan. 90 Chap. XVIII. The Road from Maslipatan to Gondicot, a City and Garrison in the Province of Carnatica; and of the deal which the Author had with Mirgimola, who commanded the King of Golconda's Army. With a discourse at large concerning Elephants. 91 Chap. XIX. The Road from Gondicot to Golconda. 100 Chap. XX. The Author's return from Surat to Ormus. 105 The Second BOOK of the INDIAN Travels. Containing an Historical and Political Description of the Empire of the Great Mogul. Chap. I. A Relation of the last Wars of Indostan, which gives an insight into the present Estate of the Empire and Court of the Moguls. 106 Chap. II. Of the Sickness and supposed Death of Cha-Jehan King of India, and the Rebellion of the Princes his Sons. Pag. 108 Chap. III. Of the Imprisonment of Cha-Jehan, and how he was punished by Aurenge-Zebe his third Son, for the injustice he had done Prince Boulaki his Nephew, the Grand child of Jehan-Guir, to whom as to the Son of the Eldest Son, the Empire of the Mogul belonged. 111 Chap. iv Of the flight of Dara-Cha to the Kingdom of Scindi and Guzerat, of the second battle which he fought against Aurenge-Zebe, his being taken Prisoner, and Death. 114 Chap. V How Aurenge-Zebe caused himself to be declared King, and of the flight of Sultan-Sujah. 116 Chap. VI Of the Imprisonment of Sultan-Mahomed, Aurenge-Zebe's Eldest Son; and of Sultan Soliman-Chekour Eldest Son of Dara-Cha. 117 Chap. VII. Of the beginning of Aurenge-Zebe's Reign, and the Death of Cha-Jehan his Father. 120 Chap. VIII. Of the preparations against the Feast of the Great Mogul, when he is weighed solemnly every year. Of the Richness of his Thrones, and the magnificence of his Court. 122 Chap. IX. Some other observations upon the Court of the Great Mogul. 124 Chap. X. Of the Commodities which are brought, as well out of the Dominions of the Great Mogul, as out of the Kingdoms of Golconda and Visapour, and other Neighbouring Territories. 126 Chap. XI. Of Diamonds, and the Mines and Rivers where they are found; and first of the Author's Journey to the Mines of Raolconda. 134 Chap. XII. The Author's Journey to the other Mines; and how they find the Diamonds there. 137 Chap. XIII. A Continuation of the Author's Travels to the Diamond Mines. 139 Chap. XIV. Of the diversity of Weights used at the Diamond Mines; of the pieces of Gold and Silver there currant; and the Rule which they observe to know the price of Diamonds. 140 Chap. XV. The Rule to know the just price and value of a Diamond of what weight soever, from three to a hundred, and upwards; a Secret known to very few people in Europe. 142 Chap. XVI. Of Coloured Stones, and the places where they are found. 137 Chap. XVII. Of Pearls, and the places where they fish for them. 145 Chap. XVIII. How the Pearls are bred in the Oysters, and how they fish for them, and at what time. 146 Chap. XIX. Observations upon the fairest and largest Diamonds and Rubies, which the Author has seen in Europe and Asia, represented according to the Figures in the Plates; as also upon those which the Author sold to the King, upon his last return from the Indies; with the Figure of a large Topaz, and the fairest Pearls in the World. 148 Chap. XX. The forms of twenty Rubies which the Author sold to the King, upon his last return from the Indies. The first part of the Plate shows the weight, extent, and thickness of every Stone. 149 Chap. XXI. Of the Coral, and yellow Ember, and the places where 'tis found. 151 Chap. XXII. Of Musk and Bezoar, and some other Medicinal Stones. 153 Chap. XXIII. Of the places where they find their Gold, both in Asia and America. 156 Chap. XXIV. The Relation of a notable piece of Treachery, whereby the Author was abused when he Embarked at Gomrom for Surat. 157 The Third BOOK of the INDIAN Travels. Chap. I. OF the particular Religion of the Mahometans in the East-Indies. Pag. 159 Chap. II. Of the Faquirs, or poor Mahometan Volunteers in the East-Indies. 160 Chap. III. Of the Religion of the Gentiles, or Idolatrous Indians. 161 Chap. iv Of the Kings and Idolatrous Princes of Asia. 163 Chap. V What the Idolaters believe touching a Divinity. 164 Chap. VI Of the Faquirs, or poor Volunteers among the Indians, and of their Penances. 165 Chap. VII. Of the Idolaters Belief touching the State of the Soul after Death. 167 Chap. VIII. Of the Custom among the Idolaters to Burn the Bodies of their Dead. 168 Chap. IX. How the Wives are Burnt in India, with the Bodies of their deceased Husbands. 169 Chap. X. Remarkable Stories of Women that have been Burnt after their Husband's decease. 171 Chap. XI. Of the most Celebrated Pagods of the Idolaters in India. 173 Chap. XII. A Continuation of the Description of the principal Pagods of the Indian Idolaters. 177 Chap. XIII. Of the Pilgrimages of the Idolaters to their Pagods. 179 Chap. XIV. Of divers Customs of the Indian Idolaters. Ibid. Chap. XV. Of the Kingdom of Boutan, whence comes the Musk, the Good Rhubarb, and some Furs. 182 Chap. XVI. Of the Kingdom of Eipra. 186 Chap. XVII. Of the Kingdom of Asem. 187 Chap. XVIII. Of the Kingdom of Siam. 189 Chap. XIX. Of the Kingdom of Macassar, and the Ambassadors which the Hollanders sent into China. 191 Chap. XX. The Author pursues his Travels into the East, and Embarks at Mengrelia for Batavia. The danger he was in upon the Sea; and his arrival in the Island of Ceylan. 194 Chap. XXI. The Author's departure from Ceylan, and his arrival at Batavia. 195 Chap. XXII. The Author goes to visit the King of Bantam, and relates several Adventures upon that Occasion. 196 Chap. XXIII. The Author's return to Batavia. His Revisiting the King of Bantam. And a Relation of several extravagancies of certain Faquirs in their return from Mecca. 199 Chap. XXIV. Of the War of the Hollanders, with the Emperor of Java. 202 Chap. XXV. The Author Buries his Brother; and is again quarrelled withal by the General and his Council. 203 Chap. XXVI. The Author Embarks in a Dutch Vessel, to return into Europe. 204 Chap. XXVII. The Holland Fleet arrives at St. Helen's. The Description of the Island. 207 THE FIRST BOOK OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER's Persian Travels, Containing the several ROADS From PARIS to ISPAHAN the Chief City of PERSIA, Through the Northern Provinces of TURKEY. CHAP. I. Of the Roads from France to the hither parts of Asia, and the Places from whence they usually set out for Ispahan. A Man cannot travel in Asia, as they do in Europe; nor at the same Hours, nor with the same ease. There are no weekly Coaches or Wagons from Town to Town; besides, that the Soil of the Countries is of several natures. In Asia you shall meet with several Regions untilled and unpeopled, either through the badness of the Climate and Soil, or the sloth of the Inhabitants, who rather choose to live miserably, than to work. There are vast Deserts to cross, and very dangerous, both for want of Water, and the Robberies that the Arabs daily commit therein. There are no certain Stages, or Inns to entertain Travellers. The best Inns, especially in Turkey, are the Tents which you carry along with you, and your Hosts are your Servants, that get ready those Victuals which you have bought in good Towns. You set up your Tent in the open Field, or in any Town where there is no Inn: and a good shift too in temperate weather, when the Sun is not too hot, or that it does not rain. In the Carvansera's or Inns which are more frequent in Persia than in Turkey, there are persons that furnish you with Provisions, and the first come are best served. As for Turkey it is full of Thiefs, that keep in Troops together, and waylay the Merchants upon the Roads, and if they be not very well guarded will certainly rob them: nay many times murder them. A mischief prevented in Persia, by the well ordered convenience which is provided for Travellers. To avoid these dangers and inconveniences, you are obliged to stay for the Caravans, that go for Persia or the Indies, which never set out but at certain times, and from certain places. These Caravans set out from Constantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo. And it is from one of these Cities that a Traveller must set out, that intends for Persia, whether he keeps company with the Caravan, or will hazard himself alone with a Guide, as once I did. I will begin with Constantinople, from whence you may go either by Land or Sea: and either by Land or Sea there are two ways to go. The first of these by Land is that which I took with Monsieur Chapes and Monsieur St. Liebau. By the way take notice; that Vienna is the halfway near upon between Paris and Constantinople. The second Read is less frequented, but is less inconvenient and less dangerous: for there are no need of the Emperor's Passports, which he does not grant very freely: besides that here is no fear of the Pirates of Tunis or Argier, as when you embark from Marseilles of Ligorn. If you intent this way, you must go to Venice; from Venice to Ancona, from whence several Barks are bound every Week for Ragusa. From Ragusa you sail along by the Shore to Durazzo a Seaport of Albania; from whence you travel the rest of the way by Land. From Durazzo to Albanopolis, distant three days journey, from thence to Monestier, just as far; from Monestier you may either take the left hand through Sophia, and Philippopolis, or the right through Inguischer, three days journey from Monestier, and ten from Adrianople, from whence in five days you reach Constantinople through Seliurea. This last way is part by Sea and part by Land: but there are two other ways altogether by Land, above and below Italy, according to the distinction which Antiquity made of the two Seas that almost encompass it. You may embark at Venice, and saying along the Gulf which is free from Pirates, you must double the Cape of Matapan, the most Southern Point of all Europe, to enter into the Archipelago. The other way is from Marseilles or Ligorn, from whence several Vessels are bound for the East. The safest way is to go along with the English or Holland Fleets, that usually arrive at Ligorn either in the Spring or in Autumn, and part just against the Morea, to the several parts whither they are bound. As the Wind serves, those Fleets sometimes make Sail between the Island of Elba and Italy, and by the Tower of Messina: sometimes below Sicily and Sardigna, within sight of Malta. Thus you must come within sight of Candy, whether you are bound for Constantinople, Smyrna, or Alexandretta, from whence it is but three days journey to Aleppo: from one of which three Cities, you must necessarily begin your journey, if you intent for Persia. Some take Egypt in their way, using through Alexandria, Cairo, and Damiata, whence several Vessels are bound for Joppa; or St. John's of Acra, which is not far off: from thence to Jerusalem or Damascus, and from thence to Bagdat or Babylon. If you will venture in a single Vessel not staying for the Fleets, you may hire a Vessel from Ligorn to Naples, from Naples to Messina, keeping along by the Shore, and lying ashore every night. I took this way, and went from Messina to Syracuse, where are to be seen the most remarkable footsteps of Antiquity. 'Tis like a City under ground, and near to it is a great Rock which has been made hollow, at the bottom whereof if a man whisper, they that are at the top may hear him. They call this Rock Dionysius the Tyrant's Ear: for being at the top, he easily understood what the People said of him below; and discovered the Counsels of the chief Men of Syracuse, whom lie kept prisoners there. Syracuse has nothing of that splendour which renowned it when it was the Mistress of all Sicily, and when Greece, jealous of her power, made War upon her. But the Soil is very plentiful, and the Galleys of Malta very often take in their Provisions there. Near the City is a fair Convent of Capuchin Friars, going out of which you may walk for half an hour between two very high Rocks, where there are several little Cells with every one a Garden, where the Friars sometimes retire, and it is certainly one of the most pleasing Solitudes in the World. From Syracuse I went to Malta, where you must wait for some Ship that is bound for the East. CHAP. II. Of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, which the Author kept in his first Travels into Persia. IT is seldom that any Caravans go from Constantinople into Persia; but from Bursa they go every two Months: Bursa is the Capital City of Bythinia, not above three days journey from Constantinople, or a little more. These two Roads meet at Chabangi, where you may be from Bursa in two Days: and so I will only speak of the Roads from Constantinople to Ispahan. This Journey is to be undertaken either with the Caravan of Camels, or else ten or twelve Men in a Company, well mounted and well armed. From Constantinople, you cross over to Scutari, upon the Coast of Asia. Setting out from Scutari, the first days journey is very pleasant, over Fields gaily painted with Flowers in their season. At first for some time together, on both sides the way, you see nothing but fair Sepulchers with their Pyramids, and you may easily discern the women's Monuments from the men's. For there is a Turban upon the Pyramid of the men's Sepulchre, but the Pyramids of the women's Monuments are trimmed with the Head-Attire which is worn by the Women of the Country. That Evening you must lie at Cartali, a Village of Bythinia, the next Day at Gebisa, anciently Lybissa, famous for the Tomb of Hannibal. In that place there are two good Inns, and two fair Fountains. The third Day you come to Isnich, which is thought to be the ancient Niceae; one part of the City is built upon the descent of a Hill, the other part upon a Plain that reaches to the Sea, and makes the Golf of Isnich. The Haven consists of two Moles made of Freestone, and three great Enclosures encompassed with Walls, which serve instead of so many Arsenals, wherein there are Storehouses full of large Timber, for building Houses and Galleys. The Country round about being an excellent place for Hunting, and the Soil bearing rare Fruits, and rich in Wine, caused Sultan Amuratt to build a Seraglio in the highest part of the Town, from whence there is a prospect at the same time both over the Sea and the Country. The Jews inhabit the greatest part of the Town, dealing chief in Timber and Corn. When the Wind serves, you may go from Constantinople to Isnich in seven or eight Hours, there being no danger in the passage. The fourth Day you stay at Chabangi, a small Town built upon the side of a Lake, called Chaban-Gigul, where there are two Inns. From the beginning of the Lake for two Leagues together you travel partly over Mountains, partly by the Lake-side; where in some places the Horse will be up to the Belly. This Lake is not above ten Leagues in compass; but it yields great store of large Fish, infomuch that I have bought a Pike two Foot and a half long for three Sous. Many Emperors have had a design to make a Cutt out of this Lake into the Sea, for the more easy transporting to Constantinople the Timber which grows upon the Mountains near the Lake. And if the Grand Visier, who by a Miracle died in his Bed, and left his Son successor to his Employment, had lived some few Years longer, he had no question added this to the rest of those famous Works that eternised his Memory. Departing from Chabandi, you come to lie at Night upon the Bank of a River called Zacarat, which runs Northward and falls into the Black Sea. It is a River plentiful in Fish, and you cross over it with a wooden Bridge. There is neither Town, nor Inn in that place; but a League from the River is a great Town called Ada, the chiefest part of the Inhabitants whereof are Armenians. Thither we sent for excellent good Wine, and other necessary refreshments. From that River to Cancoly, where you lie the next Night, and have your choice of four Inns; you travel all the day in the Marshes, over wooden Bridges and Causeys. Tuskebasar is the next place, a small Village with two Inns. From thence to Cargueslar, a great Town, with one Inn; built upon a River, where there is great store of Fish taken, which the Inhabitants call Bourma-balouky, that is to say, the Fish with the long Nose: It is speckled like a Trout; but of a better taste, and more esteemed. Polia, or Polis, is a City seated at the foot of several Mountains, the Inhabitants whereof are for the most part Greeks. These Mountains are very high, and extend themselves along the Road for two days journey. They are full of several sorts of Trees, which are straight and tall like Firr-trees; and divided by so many Torrents, which it would be hard to pass over, were it not for the Bridges that the Grand Visier Kuprigli caused to be built. In regard the soil of these Mountains is very fat, there would be no drawing for the Horses after great Rains or the melting of the Snow, had not the same Visier caused all the Ways to be Paved and Pitched, even as far as Constantinople. A Work of great Charge, in regard there is not a Flint in any part of the Mountain, and for that the Stone is to be fetched a great way off. There are abundance of Pigeons as big as Hens, and of an excellent taste, which not only pleased our Appetites, but afforded us very good Pastime to shoot them. Between the City and the Mountain, there is a Plain about two Leagues in length; near to which, there glides a River that waters it, and very much contributes to its fertility. It is an excellent Soil, and produces all things necessary for Humane Life, Upon each side of the way I counted above twenty Churchyards. For it is the custom of the Turks to bury near the Highway, believing that the Travellers pray for the Souls of the deceased. Upon every Tomb, there is to be seen a Marble Pillar, half fixed in the Earth: of which Pillars there are so great a number, of various Colours, that it is from thence conjectured, that there were a very great number of Christian Churches in Polia, and the parts thereabouts. They assured me likewise, that there were a vast quantity of these Pillars in the Villages up and down in the Mountains, which the Turks every day pull down to set upon their Tombs. Bendourlour is a Village in the Mountains, where there is one Inn. Gerradar is beyond the Mountains, where there are two Inns. Carg●slar has two Inns, and lies in a good Country. Caragalan, is a Town where there are two Inns. Cosizar is a Village with one Inn. Tocia is a great City situated upon rising Hills, that join to very high Mountains. Upon the Winter West, there appears a fair Champain Country, watered by a Stream that falls into a River of a greater bigness, called Guselarmac. Upon the highest of the smaller Hills toward the East, there is a Fortress, where a Bassa resides; and in the Town is one of the fairest Inns upon the Road. The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Christian Greeks, who have the advantage to drink excellent Wine, with which the Country furnishes them in abundance. Agisensalou stands upon a River, and there is an Inn and a fair Mosque in it. Ozeman is a little City, seated at the foot of a Hill upon which there stands a strong Castle, and below two very commodious Inns. The River Guselarmac, broad and deep, washes the South side of the City, which you cross, over one of the fairest Bridges that ever was seen. It consists of fifteen Arches, all of Freestone, and is a Work that shows the Grandeur of the Undertaker. Somewhat at a distance from the Bridge stand six Corn-Mills all together, with little wooden Bridges to go from one to another. This River falls into the Euxin Sea, about eight days journey from Ozeman. Azilar is a great Town, where there are two Inns. Delekiras is a great Village, with one Inn. These Four Days Journeys are very dangerous, by reason that the Ways are narrow, and commodious for Robbers. They are very numerous in this Country; and therefore understanding that we were waylaid, we sent and desired a Convoy of the Bassa, who lent us fifty Horsemen. Amasia is a great City, built upon an ascent in the hollow of a Mountain. It has no prospect, but only from the South over a fair Plain. The River that runs by it comes from Tocat, and throws itself into the Black Sea, four days journey from Amasia. You cross it over a wooden Bridge, so narrow that not above three persons can go abreast. To bring fresh Water to the City, they have cut a League into Rocks as hard as Marble, which was a prodigious Labour. On the Westside, upon a high Mountain, stands a Fortress, where they can come by no other Water than what they preserve in Cisterns when it reins. In the middle of the Mountain is a fair Spring, and round about it are several Chambers cut out of the Rock, where the Derviches make their abode. There are but two Inns, and those very bad ones, in Amasia. But the Soil is good, and bears the best Wine and Fruits in all Anatolia. Ainabachar, is the name of an Inn, distant a quarter of a League from a great Town where they fetch their Provisions. Turcall is a great Town near to a Mountain, upon which there stands a Castle. The River that comes from Tocatt washes the Houses, and we caught excellent Fish in it. In that place is another of the fairest Inns upon the Road. From Turcall you may travel in one day to Tocatt, where the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan meets. Tocat is a good fair City built at the foot of a very high Mountain, spreading itself round about a great Rock that stands almost in the midst of the Town, upon the top whereof a high Castle commands the neighbouring parts, with a good Garrison in it. It is very ancient, and the remainder of three others that stood there in former times. The City is very well inhabited with Turks, who are the Lord Controllers, Armenians, Greeks, and Jews. The Streets are very narrow, but the Houses are indifferent well built; and among several Mosques, there is one very magnificent, which seems to be newly reared. There was also a very fair Inn going up, which when I last travelled that way, was not quite finished. There is one thing more particular and more commodious at Tocat, which is not to be found in any Inns upon the Road, That round about all the Caravansera's in the Town, there are Lodgings which they let out to Merchants, that desire to be by themselves out of the noise and hurry of the Caravans, whiles they stay at Tocat. Besides that, in those private Lodgings you have your liberty to drink Wine, and provide for the rest of your Journey; which is not so easily done in the public Inns, where the Turks will have an eye upon the Merchants, to draw Money out of their pockets. The Christians have twelve Churches at Tocat, and there resides an Archbishop, that has under him seven Suffragans. There are also two Monasteries for Men, and two for Women; and for fourteen or fifteen Leagues round Tocat, the Country is all inhabited by Armenian Christians, but very few Greeks being intermixed among them. The greatest part of these Christians are Tradesmen, and for the most part smith's. A fair River runs about half a quarter of a League from the City, which rises near to Erzerom, and is crossed at Tocat over a very beautiful stone Bridge. Upon the North-side of the City, it waters a Plain three or four days Journey in extent, and two or three Leagues broad. It is very fertile, and replenished with fair Villages very well peopled. A man may live very cheap at Tocat: the Wine is most excellent, and all sort of rare Fruit very plentiful. It is the only place in all Asia where plenty of Saffron grows, which is the best Commodity you can carry to the Indies, where a Pound, as the Years fall out, is worth thirteen or fourteen * Every Frank being 2 s. sterling. Franks, though the Wax that preserves it, be as much in weight as the Saffron. This City, with the Lands belonging to it, usually is the Dowager Sultanesses Jointure. There is only an Aga and a Cady, that command there in the behalf of the Grand Signior: for the Bassa, from whom they receive their Orders, lives at Sivas, which is the ancient Sebastia, and a very great City, some three days journey from Tocat. In short, Tocat is one of the most remarkable Thoroughfares in the East, where are continually lodged the Caravans from Persio, Diarbequer, Bagdat, Constantinople, Smyrna, Synopus, and other places; and here the Caravans turn off, as they are variously bound. They that are for Constantinople, take to the Winter West upon the right hand; they that are for Smyrna, incline to the Summer West, upon the left hand. When you set out either way out of Tocat, there is a Toll gatherer, that counts all the Camels and Horses that pass by, and exacts for every Camel a quarter of a Rixdollar, and for every Horse half as much. As for the Horses or Camel that carry the Passengers or their Provisions, they pay nothing. This continual concourse of the Caravans trolls the Money about at Tocat, and makes it one of the most considerable Cities of Turkey. Setting out of Tocat to go to Erzerom, you discover a little Village so situated under a Hill, as if the Mountain lay a top of it; and between that Mountain and the River, the Road is very narrow where the Caravan is to pass. In this Road it was, that we met the Grand Visier returning from Hunting, with a Train of four hundred men: so soon as he perceived us, he filled off all his men to give us liberty to pass by. But among all the Company, there was not above four Franks upon which he particularly cast his Eye; which made him send for the Caravan Bachi to know who we were. The Caravan Bachi, to avoid the ill Consequences of jealousy which the Visier might have of the Franks, at a time when the Grand Visier made War in Persia, told him we were Jews; at which the Visier, shaking his Head, replied only that we did not look like such, and happy it was for us that he took no farther notice. For it was twenty to one, but that upon better consideration he might have sent after us to have stopped us. But when he came home to his Lodging he found a Capigi staying for him, with Orders from the Grand Signior to take off his Head, which were presently executed. For Amurath being troubled for the loss of his Army, had no way but to revenge himself upon the person that had the command of it. Notwithstanding that the Caravans rest at Tocat, yet they stay likewise two or three days at Charkliqueu, which is not above two Leagues distant from it; for Charkliqueu is a great Town in a lovely Country, between two fertile Hills, where there grows excellent Wine. It is for the most part inhabited by Christians, who are generally Tanners. The fine blue Goat-leather Skins being dressed in Tocat, and the Parts thereabout. It is thought the Water contributes very much to their Art. For Tocat is as famous for the blue Goats-leather Skins, as Diarbequir and Bagdat are for the red, Moussul or the ancient Niniveh for the yellow, and Ourfa for the black. About two thousand Paces from this Town, in the midst of a Plain rises a vast Rock, upon the North-side whereof you ascend about nine or ten steps into a Chamber with a Bed, a Table, and a Cupboard in it, all hewn out of the Rock. Upon the Westside you ascend other five or six steps that lead to a little Gallery, about five or six Foot long, and three broad, all hewn out of the Rock, though it be of an extraordinary hardness. The Christians affirm that St. Chrysostom made this Rock his retiring-place during his Exilement, and that he had no other Bed or Bolster than the Rock itself, in a place where they show you the print of a Man's Body. Hence it is, that the Caravans, consisting for the most part of Christian Merchants, stay at Charkliqueu, to pay their Devotions to this Rock, where the Bishop of the place, attended by some Priests, with every one a Taper in their Hands, goes and says Mass. But the main Reason is, because there grows excellent Wine in this place, which being cheaper by half here, than it is at Tocat, obliges the Armenians to stop here, to provide themselves for the rest of their Journey. Two Leagues from Charkliqueu, you cross over very high Mountains, with Precipices on both sides. It is the custom of the Armenians, when they hear of the approach of a Caravan, to ride out two or three days journey to meet their Countrymen and carry them fresh Provisions. Those of Charkliqueu coming to meet our Caravan, three of the Armenians took a large Mornings-draught, which made them so Pot-valiant, that they would needs ride before to the Town alone by themselves; but by the way they were set upon by six Horsemen that came from the North, where there are higher Mountains than those which we were to cross. Immediately the Thiefs darted their Half-Pikes at the Armenians, in so much that two of them fell down mortally wounded, and the other saved himself among the Rocks, but the Thiefs got their Horses and Goods, which were valued at ten thousand Crowns. The Caravan at the top of the Hill beheld the misfortune of those poor men which their own folly had brought upon them, but could not help them, by reason of the narrowness of the ways; besides, that the Thiefs knowing all the by-turning, were presently out of sight. And therefore it is a dangerous thing to leave the Body of the Caravan, either by staying too far behind, or running too fast before: and some have suffered for distancing themselves not above five hundred Paces from it. The Caravans do not make their Journeys all alike; but come to their Stages sometimes sooner, sometimes later, according as they meet with Water and Inns, or places fit to pitch their Tents in, to which places the Natives bring Provision and Provender from the Mountains. There are some places where there is a necessity to provide Straw and Barley for two or three days. If you travel in May, when the Grass is high, it costs nothing to seed the Horses and Camels. For as soon as the Caravan is lodged, the Servants go and cut the Grass from off the Hillocks, where it is much better than upon the Plains. But while the Beasts feed only upon Grass they are much weaker, and cannot travel so far as at other times. From the Mountain where the Armenians were set upon, you come to Almous, a little Village upon a River, which you cross, over a Bridge of Wood Going out of Almous, you cross a large Plain, at the end whereof you lodge upon the Bank of a fair River, called Toufanlou-sou, which falls into the River of Tocat. Having passed this River, you ascend a high Mountain, which the People of the Country call Kara-bchir-boguiendren, or, the Mountain that stops the Grand Signors; for it is very rugged, and you must of necessity alight, to ascend it. In that bad Way two Horses that carried each of them two Bales of English Cloth burst under their Burden, which proved excellent Food for several Tartars that were before us, and were pitched in the place where we intended to have lodged ourselves; so that we were forced to go a quarter of a League farther. These Tartars when they heard of our two dead Horses, made immediately to the Mountain fifteen or sixteen of them with all joy imaginable, to devour it. They flayed the Horses, and when they came back (for I stayed to see them) they brought every one a great piece of Flesh between the Saddle and their Horses backs. For by that means the Flesh mortifies, and bakes as it were, through the motion and heat of the Horse, and so they eat it without any more ado. I saw one of them that took a piece of those Horse's Flesh, and after he had beaten it sound between two nasty Linen Clothes, with a piece of a Stick, set his Teeth in it, and devoured it with a very greedy appetite. Upon the top of the Mountain which I have mentioned, there is a Plain, and in the midst of the Plain a Fountain called Chesmé-beler, or, A Fountain of Crystal; near to which, on the Southside, there stands a Village. From the place where we lodged, we came to a little Town called Adras, the Inhabitants whereof are all Armenians. Aspidar is but two Leagues from Adras, and is but a Village. Isbeder is another Village in the Mountains, where the Caravan generally stays one or two days; as well to pay the Custom, which is the fourth part of a Rixdollar upon every Camel, and half as much for every Horse; as for the excellency and cheapness of the Wine, where every Man provides for himself. Twice we passed by and paid nothing, in regard that the Caravan was too strong for the Toll-gatherers; and were it not that they stay for the Wine, they might go directly forward without paying any thing. Leaving Isbeder, we came to another great Town in the Mountains; all the Houses are hewn out of the Rock upon which it is seated, as are also all the Staircases. From this Village, having passed a River, over a wooden Bridge, at the end whereof there stands an Inn, you come to Zacapa, another Village, from whence through very narrow passages, where you are forced to unload the Camels, and carry your Goods upon men's shoulders for thirty Paces together, you come to encamp in a little Plain. It lies at the foot of a high Mountain, which they call Dikmebell, beyond which lies the Town Kourd-Aga, after which you cross three Rivers; one fordable, the other over two Bridges, and then you come to a Village called Garmeru. From Garmeru you go to Seukmen, another Village; from Seukmen to Louri; from Louri to Chaouqueu, which are two very handsome Towns. I saw an Old Man at Chaouqueu who was above a Hundred and Thirty Years old, who when Sultan Amurath besieged Bagdat, gave his whole Army as much Oats as served them one whole day. In recompense whereof, the Sultan exempted him and his Children from all Taxes and Tolls for their Lives. Leaving Chaouqueu, you come to a high craggy Mountain which is called Aaggidogii, or, The Bitter Mountain. The Ways being narrow, the Caravan is forced to travel single; and than it is that they count all the Horses, and all the Camels; every Horse and every Camel paying to the Caravan-Master a certain Duty, which amounts to a good Sum if the Caravan be numerous. One part of that Money is to pay seven or eight Armenians, that guard the Caravan all the way; another part defrays the Expenses upon the Road; and the remainder is the Captain of the Caravan's Profit. Having passed this Mountain, you come to lodge in a Plain which they call Gioganderesi, and from thence to Erzerom you meet only with three Villages by the way, Achikala, Ginnis, and Higia, which are the Caravan's Stages. During these three last days journeys, you keep all along the Banks of Euphrates for the most part, which is yet but narrow, taking its source Northward of Erzerom. 'Tis a wonderful thing to see the vast quantities of large Asparagus that grow all along the River, with which you may load several Camels. A League on this side Erzerom the Caravan is constrained to stop; for the Officer of the Customhouse accompanied with the Bassa's Lieutenant, comes here and ties all the Bales and Chests with a cross Cord, upon which he puts a Seal, to the end that when the Merchants come to the Town, they may not be able to take out any Bags of Money, or any pieces of Stuff on purpose to hid them till they go away. The particular Business of the Bassa's Lieutenant in meeting the Caravan, is to see whether the Merchants be well provided with Wines. And if he desire any Bottles, whether it be then, or in the City, where they are not ashamed to visit every Merchant, there is no refusing them. For there grows no Wine at Erzerom, all that is drank there being a small Wine of Mingrelia, which is always green: which forces the Merchants to furnish themselves with Wine at Tocat, which they may do sufficiently to last them into Persia. The Officer of the Customhouse generally allows the Caravan three days to rest; during which time he sends to the principal Merchants some Fruit and other small Refreshments, by which he is no loser. After the three days are over, he comes and opens all the Bales and Chests, and takes a particular account of all the Merchandizes. This Search and the changing of Beasts, causes the Caravan to stay generally twenty or five and twenty days at Erzerom. Erzerom is a frontier Town of Turkey toward Persia. It is situated at the end of a large Plain environed with Mountains, the Plain being beautified with many fair Villages. If you take in the Castle and the Suburbs it may pass for a City, but the Houses are ill built of Wood, without any neatness or proportion. There are some Remains of Churches and of the ancient Buildings of the Armenians, by which you may conjecture that it never was very beautiful. The Fortress stands upon a high ground, with a double Wall, square Towers close one to another, and a pitiful Moat. The Bassa resides there but in a very ill House, all the Buildings about the Fortress being in a bad condition. In the same Enclosure there is a little rising Ground upon which they have raised a small Fort, wherein the Janisary-Aga lives; and where the Bassa has no Power. When the Grand Signior has a mind to the Head of this Bassa, or any other considerable person in the Province, he sends a Capigi, with order to the Janisary to send for the Person to the little Fort, where the Execution is presently done. One Example hereof I saw in my last Travels into Persia: For the Bassa of Erzerom not having sent Twelve thousand Men so soon as the Grand Signior required them for his Wars in Candy, the same Capigi that brought the Sentence of his Death, had the same Order for the Execution of the Bassa of Kars; and meeting this Capigi upon the Road in a Village, upon his return for Constantinople, he would needs show me whether I would or no, the Heads of the two Bassa's, which he was carrying to the Grand Signior in a Bag. Between the first and second Gate of the Fortress are to be seen four and twenty Pieces of Cannon, most excellent Guns, but lying one upon another without Carriages. They lie at Erzerom to be ready upon all occasions when the Grand Signior makes War against the Persians. There are in Erzerom several great Inns; this City, like Tocat, being one of the greatest Thoroughfares in Turkey. The Country about it bears Wine, but not very good, and in regard the People are strictly forbidden to drink Wine, the Merchants are forced to buy it very privately, for fear it should come to the knowledge of the Cadi. Though it be very cold at Erzerom, Barley grows there in forty days, and Wheat in sixty, which is very remarkable. The Customs paid there for the carrying out of the Gold and Silver, and upon all other Commodities, is very severe. Silk, that comes out of Persia, pays four and twenty Crowns for a Camel's Load, which is eight hundred Pounds. For in the mountainous Countries a Camel's Load is no more; but in the plain and even Countries they make'em carry above ten hundred weight. A Load of Indian Calicutts pays a hundred Crowns; but the Loads of Linen are much heavier than those of Silk. As for other Commodities, they pay Six per Cent. according to their value. From this Stage the Caravan sets forward to a Fortress called Hassan Kala, where you must pay half a Piastre for every Camel's or Horse's Load going from Erzerom to Erivan, but returning you pay but half as much. Leaving this Fortress, you must go and lodge at a Bridge near to a Village which is called Choban-Cupri. Over this Bridge, which is the fairest in the whole Journey, you cross two Rivers which there meet, one is the Kars, and the other is a Stream that falls from a Mountain called Binguiel, both which disburden themselves into the Aras. The Caravan usually stays a day or two at this Bridge; because the Caravan divides itself at this place, some continuing on the High-road, others taking the Road of Kars, as well to avoid fording the Arras several times, as the paying a great Duty upon the great Road, where they exact four Piastres upon every Camel's Load, and two upon every Horseload, whereas at Kars you are dismissed for half so much. I went Kars Road twice; but it is longer, and more troublesome than the other. As soon as you leave the Bridge, for the first four days you travel over woody Mountains, and very desert Countries, where you meet but with one Village; but coming near Kars the Country is more pleasant, and well manured; bearing all sorts of Grain. Kars is in 78 Deg. 40 Min. of Longitude, and 42 Deg. 40 Min. of Latitude; in a very good Soil. The City is very large, but thinly peopled, though Provision be very plentiful and very cheap. But the Grand Signior always choosing that place to rendezvouz his Army, whenever he intended to recruit it, and to lodge his People there which he sent to build Villages; the King of Persia has ruined all the Country, as he did at Sulfa, and in many other Frontier places, for nine or ten days journey together. From Kars to Erivan the Caravan makes it nine days journey, and lies where it can find most convenience, there being no certain Stages. The first days journey ends at a Monastery and a Village, the one no less deserted than the other. The next day you come to the Ruins of a great City, called Anikagaë, in the Armenian Language the City of Any, which was the name of an Armenian King that was the Founder of it. By the Wall, on the East-side, runs a rapid Stream that falls from the Mountains of Mingrelia, and empties itself into the River of Kars. This City was very strongly situated; being placed in a Mersh, where are to be seen the Remains of two Causeys that only led to the Town. There are the Ruins of several Monasteries; among the rest two that are entire, supposed to be Royal Foundations. From thence to Erivan for two days journey, you meet with only two Villages; near the last of which you ride by the side of a Hill, whither when the Caravan passes by, the People bring Horses from several Parts to be sold. The Great Road from the Bridge, where the Caravan parts, lies thus: Two Leagues from the Bridge, on the right hand toward the South, lies a great Mountain which the People of the Country call Mingol. In this Mountain there are abundance of Springs, and from one side of it falls Euphrates, from the other side the River of Kars, which empties itself into the Arras fourteen or fifteen Leagues on this side Erivan. The Arras, which the Ancients called Araxes, falls from other Mountains Eastward of Mingol, which after many wind through the Upper Armenia, where it receives many other Rivers that swell its Streams; it discharges itself into the Caspian Sea, two days journey from Shamaki, upon the Frontiers of the ancient Medes. The whole Country is intercut by the River's Arras and Kars, and several other Streams that fall into them, inhabited by very few, but what are Christians; those few Mahometans that live among them being so superstitious, that they will not drink the Water of any of those Rivers, nor wash in them; believing them impure and defiled by the use which the Christians make of them. They have their particular Wells and Cisterns by themselves, which they will not suffer a Christian to come near. Comasour is the first Village where you lodge after you leave the Bridge of Choban-Kupri, going to Erivan. Halicarcara is the next Stage to Comasour: this is a great Town also inhabited by Christians, but the Houses are built all underground like Caves. Coming thither the seventh of March 1655, the Snow was so deep that there was no travelling, so that we were forced to stay there eight days. But the Customer of Erzerom understanding in what a bad condition we were, came in person with five hundred Horse to make way for us, and sent for the Countrypeople round about to clear away the Snow. But it was not so much out Kindness to us, as for his own Interest. For a new Officer being to succeed him upon the 22d of March, and our Caravan being very numerous, he would have lost above a hundred thousand Crowns, had we not come to Erzerom before that day. Many of the Passengers were almost blinded by continual looking upon the Snow, the colour whereof very much dims the Sight: for preservation whereof the Travellers are wont to wear black Cypress Hoods, made on purpose, over their Faces. Others wear furred Bonnets, fringed about with Goatshair, which being long, falls over their Eyes, and does altogether as well as the Hood. The Caravan is usually twelve days upon the Road, from Erzerom to Erivan. Leaving Halicarcara, you ford the Arras three times, and cross it the next day again: for it winds exceedingly. A League and a half from the place where you ford it the fourth time, upon the top of a high Mountain stands a Fortress called Kaguisgan, which is the last place which the Turks possess on that side. The Customers that live there come to the Caravan to take their Toll, which is four Piastres for every Camel loaden, and two for every Horse loaden. In the year 1655 the Caravan lodging about a League from the Fortress of Kaguisgan, the Mountains adjoining being inhabited by Christian Armeniaus, there came to us a poor Bishop attended by fifteen or sixteen persons, among which there were certain Priests, who brought us Bread, Fowl, and Fruit, desiring the Charity of the Merchants, who recompensed them to their satisfaction. About four or five Months after, this Bishop had one of his Eyes struck out by a Janisary. That wicked Fellow came to the Town where the Bishop lived, and lighting upon the Bishop, asked him for Money, which because the Bishop had none to give him, in a rage he stabbed him in the Eye with his Dagger. Complaint was made to the Aga, who 'tis thought would have punished the Offender, but he fled, and left the Bishop without remedy of satisfaction. From the last place where we encamped near the Arras, we went and lodged the next day upon the same River, in the sight of a Village not above a quarter of a League. The next day we crossed the River that runs from Kars, and parts Turkey from Persia. The next day we stopped upon the Banks of Aras, half a League from a little Town; and this is the last time you see this River which you are constrained to pass so often. Leaving Aras, we came to lodge in a Plain, in sight of a Town which is not far distant. The next day the Caravan lies in the Field, and the next day it comes to a place where there are three Churches, whence it is but half a days journey from Erivan. CHAP. III. A Continuation of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, from the Borders of Persia to Erivan. THE first Place worthy Observation, entering into Persia through Armenia, is that which they call the Three Churches, three Leagues from Erivan; which Three Churches, are three Monasteries distant one from the other. The biggest and the fairest is the Residence of the Patriarch of the Armenians. There is another to the South of that, about a Musket-shot distant, and another a quarter of a League from it toward the East, which is a Nunnery for Virgins. The Armenians call this place Egmiasin, or the Only Daughter, which is the Name of the chief Church. You may find in their Chronicles, That it began to be Built about three hundred Years after Christ, and that the Walls being raised to a good height, the Devil came in the Night and pulled down what they built up in the Day; which he did for several Years: but that one Night Christ himself appeared, and that from that time the Devil surceased to molest them any more; so that they finished the Church. It is dedicated to St. Gregory, whom the Armenians have in very great veneration. And there is a Table of Stone, whereupon, according to their Chronicles, Christ rested when he appeared to St. Gregory. They that go into the Church, kiss this Stone with a very solemn Devotion. The Second is built in honour of a Princess that came with forty Virgins of Quality to visit St. Gregory. This Lady an Armenian King caused to be thrown into a Well full of Serpents; but she received no harm. For she lived therein 14 Years by a great Miracle, and from that time to this, the Serpents that breed thereabouts never did any harm. That Idolatrous King had a design to have enjoyed that Princess, who was very handsome, and all her Companions; but they overcame him by their Virtue: who thereupon, seeing he could not have his Will, put them all to Death. The Custom of all the Armenians, as well those that come out of Persia, as those that travel into Persia, is to perform their Devotions at these Three Churches; and the Caravan stops usually five or six days, during which time they Confess, and receive Absolution from the Patriarch. The Patriarch has under him forty seven Archbishops, and every Archbishop has under him four or five Suffragans, with whom he lives in a Convent, where there are several Monks under their Jurisdiction. So soon as they have said their Mass, which is generally done an Hour after Day, they all go to work, and to dig and delve for their living. The Revenue of the Patriarch is 600000 Crowns or thereabouts: for all the Armenian Christians that are above fifteen Years of age, aught to pay him yearly five Sous. However there are many that do not pay him, by reason of their poverty. Yet their defect is supplied by the rich, who sometimes pay him two or three Crowns a Head. But this Money does not stay in the Patriach's Pocket: nay he is sometimes behindhand; for he is engaged to relieve the poor Armenians, who have not wherewithal to pay the Carriage, which is an Annual Tribute that they own to the Mahometan Princes, to whom they are subject: Otherwise necessity would force them to become Mahometans; and they, their Wives and Children would be liable to be sold, which the Grand Patriarch labours all he can to prevent. Every Archbishop sends him out of his Diocese what is necessary to be raised for that intent. So that the Patriarch does but only receive it with one Hand, and pay it with the other; making no Profit to himself of a Revenue which he has out of 400000 Villages, which the Archbishop of St. Stephen's affirmed to me to be under his Jurisdiction. As I returned from Persia in the Year 1655, I came to the Three Churches about the end of February; the Caravan stayed there eleven Days, as well by reason of the great Snows that stopped up the Ways, as for that the Armenians resolved to keep their Carnival there, and after that to perform their Devotions. The next day I went to visit the Patriarch, who was sitting crosslegged upon a Mat. There were four Archbishops, and nine Bishops sitting about him in the same posture, among whom there was one that spoke very good Italian. I stayed with him three Hours; and while we were discoursing together, in came one of the Monks of the Convent, who had not spoken to any person whatsoever in Two and twenty Years, by reason of a Penance that was imposed upon him. Never did Man appear so meager and deformed; but the Patriarch sent for him, and by his Authority commanded him to break Silence, which he did, by speaking at the same Instant. The Saturday before Shrove-Sunday the Patriarch invited all the Caravan, as well Masters as Servants, to hear Mass the next day, and then to dine at the Covent. Mass being concluded, the People were brought into a long Gallery, about 15 or 20 Foot broad, there being a Table on both sides, made of several Stones, and Benches next the Walls. At the upper end of the Gallery stands a Table four Foot square, over which is a vaulted Roof sustained with four Pillars, which serves for a Canopy: in the midst whereof is a Chair set for the Patriarch, who from thence has a full view of both sides the Gallery; with two other Chairs of each hand, for two Archbishops: the other Archbishops, Monks, and Guests sat at the long Tables. The Meat which they brought us was several sorts of Pilaw, and several Dishes of Fish, among the rest excellent Trout. The Pilaw was brought in forty wide Plates, so well filled and so large, that they were every one as much as a Man could carry. They were all set down upon the Ground before the Patriarch; who then Prayed and gave Thanks. Then six Bishops with Ladles took out the Meat out of the great Platters, and putting it into lesser, served both the Tables. Every one had also his earthen Pot of Wine, which was very good, and was filled again when it was empty. The Patriarch and the two Archbishops eat nothing but two Eggs, and a few raw Herbs; no more did the other Archbishops that sat at the Table. At the end of the Feast, a Bishop comes with a Paper and Pen and Ink in his Hand, and asks of every one what he pleases to Subscribe for the Benefit of the Church; then every one proposing, according to his Devotion, the Bishop writes down the Names of the Persons, and the Sum which they mention; which he comes and gathers the next day. There are some rich Merchants that will give two Tomans, but the meanest Servant will give an Or. The Bishop having done writing, the Table was cleared, and then they brought us Melons and other Fruits. In a short while after the Bells rung to Evening Service, and the People went to Church. After Evening Service the Patriarch sent for me to behold a Combat of Bufalo's, of which there are great store in that Country, some serving to Till their Ground; while the Female ones yield store of Milk, of which they make Butter and Cheese, and which they mingle with all sorts of other Milk: There are some of these female Beasts that will give two and twenty Pints of Milk a day. They brought us into a wide Enclosure, to behold the Sport, wherein there were eight Bufalo's. To provoke them one against another, they show them a Red Cloth, which puts them into such a Rage, that there were two that died with the stroke of their Horns upon the place, and there were none of the rest which were not very much lamed. The Sport being at an end, they bring a great quantity of Wood, which they pile together on purpose to set it on Fire. When the Wood was heaped in as big a Pile as they intended, one of the Archbishops presented a Taper of white Wax to all the Company, both Masters and Servants, who every one agreed with him what they should give the next day for their Tapers. The Tapers being lighted, the Patriarch with a Stick like a Bishop's Crosier, marched before, singing an Hymn, attended by all the Persons both Ecclesiastical and Secular, till they had in that manner walked three times about the Pile. When the Pile came to be lighted, there was great striving who should have the Honour. One of the Merchants offered a quantity of Oil, for Lamps for the Church; another out did him, and a third proffered more than he; and the Honour of Lighting the Pile was given to him that offered most. Immediately upon that every one put out his Taper: For they esteem it a most precious business; believing that the lighting of one of those Tapers in a Sterm, and throwing it into the Sea, is a present Charm against Shipwreck. For say they, The Virgin Mary, forty days after she was brought to Bed, went to Jerusalem with Joseph and her Son; and going into the Temple met old Simeon, who taking the Child in his Arms, began to sing the Song, Lord now let thy Servant, etc. the Song being ended, all the People began to cry that Christ was born, and to publish it about the City. Now in regard it was Night, every one ran out with Torches in their Hands, and some made Fires before their Doors, where Christ was to pass along. This Festival among the Armenians is like that of Candlemas-day; and they call it in their Language, Ter en Areche? Where is the Lord? The Armenians, Masters and Servants, drank all Night to make an end of their Carnival, while the Patriarch was busy in dressing up the Church with its gayest Ornaments. Ten Leagues from Erivan, toward the North, appears a great Lake, wherein there is an Island, upon which is built a very fair Covent. The Monks that live there, live so austere a Life, that they never eat Fish or Flesh above four times a Year: neither do they speak one to another, but upon those four Days. The rest of the Year they feed only upon Herbs, which they gather out of the Garden: for say they, it is not Fasting, to eat either Butter or Oil. The Bread which they eat is brought from the neighbouring Villages: and the Island is replenished with all sorts of excellent Fruits. On the one side of the Lake nearer to Erivan is a large Plain, wherein there are six Monasteries. One of which is entirely hewn out of the Rock, with the Pillars that sustain it, being seated in a very hard Rock. The Armenians call that Church Kickart in their Language, and the Turks in theirs Guieurghieche, that is, See and away. In this Church, according to the Traditions of the Armenians, is kept the Lance wherewith the Side of Christ was pierced; the Figure whereof I caused to be drawn upon the Place. The Armenians have this Lance in great Veneration, saying, that it was brought thither by St. Matthew. Five Leagues from Erivan, towards the Southeast gins the Mountain Ararat; which will be always famous for being the restingplace of Noah's Ark. Half a League from that Mountain, where the Plain gins to grow level, stands a Church upon a little Hillock, close by which are several Pits like Wells. They report that it was into one of these Wells that Cerda, an Armenian King, caused St. Gregory to be thrown, because he would not Worship his false Gods. Between this Church and Erivan are to be seen the Ruins of the Ancient Artaxate, the Seat of the Kings of Armenia, which demonstrate that it has been a great City: besides, there appear the Ruins of a fair Palace. Erivan lies in 64 Degrees, 20 Minutes of Longitude; 41 Degrees, 15 Minutes of Latitude; in a most plentiful Country of all things necessary for Humane Life, but especially abounding in good Wine. It is one of the best Provinces of all Persia, and yields the King a very large Revenue, as well by reason of the goodness of the Soil, as for being the great Thoroughfare of the Caravans. The yearly Revenue of the Governor only, otherwise called the Can of Erivan, amounts to above 20000 Tomans, which make 840000 Livres. This City lying upon the Frontiers of both Empires, has been taken and retaken by the Turks and Persians, several times. By which means the old City being ruined, they have built a new one, 800 Paces on this side, upon a Rock, at the foot whereof, upon the Westside runs a rapid Stream: it is called by the Name of Sangui-Cija, and in many places it is deep and full of Rocks. You cross it, over a fair Bridge of three Arches, in which are built little Chambers, where the Can retires in the heat of the day. It is full of Fish, especially Trout, which nevertheless are dear enough. This River comes from a Lake called Gigaguni, about 25 Leagues from Erivan, toward the North, and falls into the Arras, that runs not above three Leagues off to the South. Though this City be fortified to the West by the River, yet it is never the stronger, by reason of the Hills on the other side which command it: and in regard it is built upon a Rock, the Moats of the Fort are not above three or four Foot deep. In some places the City is secured with a double Wall with several Towers; but the Walls being only of Earth, as are most of the Houses, the Rain does more mischief, than the Cannon would do. That part of Erivan to the North-West, is a kind of Suburb, but far better inhabited than the City: for there live all the Merchants and Artificers, together with the Christian Armenians, who have four Churches there, with a Monastery. And of late years they have built also a very fair Inn in the same Quarter. In the City there only lives the Can, with the Military Officers and Soldiers; the Khan's Lodgings lying upon the River. The Governor is a Person of great Power, and has always sufficient Forces about him to guard the Frontiers. The Summer being very hot at Erivan, he lies in Tents upon the Mountains during the Heat. When a Caravan arrives, he is forced to give the King advice thereof: and if any Ambassador come thither, he is bound to maintain him at his own Expense, and to cause him to be conducted to the Territories of the next Governor, who is obliged to do the same. So that Ambassadors are not bound to be at any Expenses in the Territories of the King of Persia. Four Leagues from the City are high Mountains, where the Natives that inhabit the hot and Sunburnt Countries toward Chaldea, come twenty thousand together, to seek out good Pasturage for their cattle, and about the end of Autumn return again into their own Country. I cannot compare this Mountainous Tract, whether for its Valleys and Rivers, or for the nature of the Soil, to any Part that I have seen, better than to that portion of Switzerland, which is called the Country of Vaux: and there is a Tradition among the Natives, That certain People that inhabited between the Alps and Mount Jura, and which composed a Squadron of Alexander's Army, having served him in his Conquests, seated themselves in this part of Armenia, which they found so like their own Country. From Tocat to Tauris the Inhabitants are for the most part Christians. Which large Tract of Ground being that which the Ancients called the Province of Armenia, 'tis no wonder to meet with fifty Armenians for one Mahometan. There are many ancient Armenian Families in Erivan, which is their native Country; but they are ill used by the Governors, who being far distant from the Court, do what they please. This City not being far remote from the Province from whence the Silks come, is the place where all the Buyers and Sellers resort. But neither in Erivan, nor in any other part of Persia are the Merchants put to open their Bales at the Custom-Houses, as in Turkey. They only pay certain Duties toward securing the Highways; which Duties they call Raderies, and those that gather them Raders. The Khans or Governors of Provinces in Persia are civil to Strangers, especially to those that they like, or that show them any thing of Curiosity. The first time that I went into Persia, I took a young Watchmaker with me, and coming to Erivan, I carried him to the Can who was then Governor. It was at a time when Watches were very rare in Persia; and the Can, understanding what Trade the Young Man was of, told us he was the first Watchmaker that ever had been in Persia: Thereupon he brought the Young Man a Watch to mend, and that he might have the pleasure of seeing him work, he lodged us in a Chamber next his own, and made us drink with him every day; for he was a true Toper, and compelled us to drink with him from four in the Afternoon till near Midnight, in a place which he had made on purpose, in his Garden, to take off his Glasses. This was he, that having delivered Erivan to Sultan Amurat, went along with him to Constantinople, and became his Favourite for teaching him to Drink. Amurat left a Garrison of 22000 Men in the City; but Sha-Sefi the Persian King begird it presently with a strong Army; and planting himself securely under one of the Hills that command the City, he battered it incessantly with eight Pieces of Cannon: the fourth day he made a Breach, and though he had the repute of a Coward, he was the first at the Assault, and took the City: and because they would not yield at his Summons, he put all the Garrison to the Sword. For which Amurat, was quit with Sha-Sefi afterwards, though not in so noble a way; for entering a Victor into Bagdat, he put all the Persians to the Sword, after he had given them his Word to the contrary, and promised to spare their Lives. CHAP. IU. A Continuation of the same Road from Erivan to Tauris. IT usually takes up ten days journey for the Caravan to go between Erivan and Tauris; and Nacksivan is almost in the midway between both. The first days journey you travel through large Plains sowed with Rice, and watered with several Rivulets. The next day you continue to travel through Plains of the same nature, in sight of the Mountain Ararat, which is full of Monasteries, leaving it upon the South. The Armenians call this Mountain Mesesoufar, The Mountain of the Ark; because the Ark of Noah rested upon it. It is as it were unfastened from the other Mountains of Armenia, and from the halfway to the top, it is continually covered with Snow. It is higher than any of the neighbouring Mountains; and in my first Travels I saw it for five days journey together. So soon as the Armenians discover it, they kiss the Earth, and lifting up their Eyes to Heaven, say their Prayers. Yet you are to take notice, that the Mountain is hid in Clouds for two or three Months together. In the Plains that you cross in this second days journey, to the Southward a League and a half from the Highway, is to be seen a Work of great Art; being the Ruins of a Magnificent Castle, where the Kings of Armenia were wont to reside in the time of their Hunting Divertisements; more especially when they continued their Sports at the Mallard and Heron. The next day we lodged near to a Village where there was good Water, which constrained the Caravan to stay there; there being none to be met with for ten Leagues farther. The next day you must travel one by one through the Pass of a Mountain, and cross a large River named Arpa-sou, which falls into Aras. It is fordable when it is low; but when the Snow melts and swells the Stream, you must go a League out of your way to the Southward to cross it, over a Bridge of Stone. From thence you go to lodge near a Village called Kalifakiend, where you are forced to fetch your Water a good way off. The first days journey is through a Plain, at the end whereof you meet with an Inn, called Karabagler, standing upon a Rivulet; which was finished in 1664. The Head of this Rivulet springs three or four Leagues higher toward the North; and half a League below Karabagler, the Water congeals and petrifies; and of those Stones is the Inn built. The Stone is very slight; and when they have need of it, they make Trenches all along the Stream, and fill them with the same Water, which in eight or ten months' turns into Stone. The Water is very sweet, and has no bad taste; yet the Countrymen thereabouts will neither drink it, nor water their Grounds with it. The Armenians say, that Sem the Son of Noah caused the Rock to be hollowed, out of which this River issues; which four or five Leagues from its Head, and two from the Inn, falls into Aras. From this Inn to Naksivan is but a small Journey. Naksivan, according to the Opinion of the Armenians, is the most ancient City of the World; built about three Leagues from the Mountain upon which the Ark of Noah rested: from whence it also takes its Name; for Nak in the Armenian Tongue signifies a Ship, and Sivan, resting or reposing. 'Twas a great City, now wholly ruined by the Army of Sultan Amurath. There are the Remains of several rare Mosques, which the Turks have destroyed; for the Turks and Persians destroy one another's Mosques as fast as they fall into one another's possession. This City is very ancient, and the Armenians report that it was in this place where Noah went to live, when he went out of the Ark. They say further, that he was Buried here; and that his Wife has a Tomb at Marante upon the Road to Tauris. There runs a little River by Naksivan, the Water whereof is very good; the Spring whereof is not far distant from the Head of the River of Karabagler. The Armenians drove a great Trade in Silk formerly in this Town, which is now very much abated: however, there is a Can which has the Command there. All the Country between Erivan and Tauris was wholly destroyed by Sha-Abas King of Persia, and the first of that Name; to the end that the Armies of the Turks, not meeting with any subsistence, might perish of themselves. To this purpose, he sent all the Inhabitants of Zulfa and the Parts adjoining into Persia, Old and Young, Fathers, Mothers, and Children, with which he planted new Colonies in several parts of his Kingdom. He sent above 27000 Families of Armenians into Guilan, whence the Silks come; and where the harshness of the Climate killed abundance of those poor People, that were accustomed to a milder Air. The most considerable were sent to Ispahan, where the King put them upon the Trade of Silk, and lent them Commodities, for which they paid upon the return of their Markets, which suddenly set the Armenians upon their Feet again. These are they that built the City of Zulfa, which is only separated from Ispahan by the River of Senderou, calling it New Zulfa, to distinguish it from the old City, which was the Habitation of their Ancestors. A third part of the People were dispersed into other Villages between Ispahan and Sciras. But the old People dying, the young ones generally turn Mahumetans: so that now you can hardly meet with two Christian Armenians in all those fair Plains, which their Fathers were sent to manure. Among the Ruins of Naksivan appear the Ruins of a great Mosque, which was one of the most stately Buildings in the World: which some say was built in memory of Noah's Buryingplace. As you depart out of the City, near to the River that runs by it, appears a Tower, which is an excellent piece of Architecture: It is composed of four Duomo's joined together, which support a kind of Pyramid, that seems to be framed of twelve little Towers; but toward the middle it changes its figure, and lessening like a Spire, ends in a Point. The Building is all of Brick, but as well the outside as the inside is overspread with a kind of Varnish of Parget, wrought into Flowers, like Embossed Work. 'Tis thought to have been an Edifice set up by Temurleng, when he had Conquered Persia. THE PLATFORM OF BAGDAT A League and a half from the chief of these Covents there is a high Mountain, separated from all the rest, which rises like a Sugar-loaf, as doth the Pike of Tenariff. At the foot of this Mountain are certain Springs, that have the virtue to heal those that are bit by Serpents; in so much that Serpents carried to that place will die immediately. When the Caravan is ready to set out from Naksivan for Zulfa, which is not above a days journey from thence, the principal Armenians usually go out of the way to the Covent of St. Stephen, which lies to the South. Now the Road from Naksivan to St. Stephen's lies first to a great Village called Ecclisia, where live the richest Armenians, that drive a great Trade in Silk, and have built them a very fair Church. Two Leagues from Ecclisia you must cross the River Aras in a Ferry-Boat, being as it were squeezed between two Mountains in that place: Once I went over upon the Ice. About two Musket-shots from thence, you must cross, over a Bridge, another River that falls into the Aras. From the foot of the Bridge you begin to ascend a little Hill, at the top whereof you meet with a great Village, called Shambé, all the Inhabitants whereof, as well Men as Women, grow Mad at 18 years of age; but it is such a Madness that is not mischievous. Some believe it to be the Punishment of Heaven, for that their Forefathers in these Mountains persecuted St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew. From hence to St. Stephen's it is not above a League, but the Way is very troublesome. St. Stephen's is a Covent built not above 30 Years ago. It stands upon the Mountains, in a barren place, and of difficult access. But the reason why the Armenians chose that place before any other, is because that St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew retired thither in the time of their Persecution. They add, that St. Matthew did a Miracle in that place: for that there being no Water there before, he only struck his Stick upon the Ground, and presently there arose a Spring. This Spring is about half a quarter of a League from the Covent, under a Vault with a good Door to it, to keep the Water from being wasted. The Armenians go to visit this Spring in great Devotion, having laid the Water into the Covent with Pipes. They also say, that in this place they found several Relics which St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew left there, to which they add a great many others; among the rest a Cross, made of the Basin wherein Christ washed his Disciples Feet: In the middle of the Cross is a white Stone, which, as they report, if you lay upon a Sick person, will turn black if the person be likely to die; and recover its former whiteness after the death of the party. A Jawbone of St. Stephen the Martyr. The Scull of St. Matthew. A Bone of the Neck, and a Bone of the Finger of St. John Baptist. A Hand of St. Gregory, who was the Disciple of Dionysius the Areopagite. A little Box, wherein they keep a great number of pieces of Bones, which they believe to be the Relics of the Seventy Two Disciples. The Church is built in the form of a Cross, as are all the Churches of the Armenians; in the middle whereof rises a fair Duomo, round about which stand the Twelve Apostles. Both the Church and Covent are of Freestone, and though the whole Edifice be not very big, there has been abundance of Gold and Silver wasted upon the Walls: many Armenian Families have been very much endamaged thereby; for the Women were so devout, that unknown to their Husbands they sold their Jewels, and their very clothes, to defray the Expenses of Building. The first time that I was at St. Stephen's, in the company of some Armenians, two Bishops, attended by several other Monks, came out to meet us, and led us into a great Hall, where we were very well treated. For it is the custom of the Armenians, a little before Meals to present their Guests a large Cup of Aquavitae, with Sweet meats of all sorts, besides Citron and Orange-peels candied, in seven or eight Porcelan-dishes, laid in a great China-Basin. This is a little Prelude to exoite the Appetite; for the Armenians, both Men and Women, will empty great Cups of Aquavitae. After Dinner they go to Church, where they sing certain Hymns: when you return, there are a sufficient number of Mattresses or Quilts to lie upon; for they use no other sort of Beds over all Asia: only at Night you spread a Carpet upon a Quilt, and shut the Door. We saw not the Archbishop all that Evening, only at Church. About Midnight all the Bells rang, and every body risen to go to Church. I believe it was more than usual, because it was Shrovetide; for both the Office and the Missa were both concluded by break of day. Between eight and nine in the Morning the Cloth was laid; before which time we saw abundance of the neighbouring Country People, who brought Wine, Fruits, and other Provisions, and presented all to the Archbishop. While we were at Breakfast news came that a certain Bishop was dead, in his return to the Three Churches; whither he was sent by the Patriarch to gather certain Duties due from the Villages. Immediately the Archbishop rising from the Table with all his Assistants, and having made a Prayer for the Dead, sent a Bishop and six Monks to fetch the Corpse; who returning a little after Midnight, the Body was presently laid in the Church upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, with the Face turned toward the Altar. In the mean time, a great number of Wax-candles were lighted, and all the rest of the Night two Monks watched by turns to Pray for the Dead. Early in the Morning the Archbishop, the Bishops and all in Religious Orders, said the Office for the Dead, which lasted half an Hour; and at the end of the Mass they brought the Corpse to the Altar, so that they made the Feet of the Corpse to touch it. Having so done, they took off the Linen Cloth that covered his Head, at which time the Archbishop anointed him in six places with the Holy Oil, saying certain Prayers every time. Then they covered him again, and said other Prayers which lasted half an Hour. These Ceremonies performed, they carried the Corpse out of the Church with Crosses and Banners, and every one a Taper in his Hand. As the Corpse passed by, one of the Bishops put a Paper in his right Hand, containing these Words, I came from the Father, and I return to the Father. Being brought to the Grave, upon a little Mountain near the Covent, and set down, they said other Prayers which lasted a quarter of an Hour. In the mean time a Bishop going down into the Grave, took away all the Stones and made the place smooth, after which the Corpse was let down wrapped in a large Linen Sheet. Then the Bishop, according to their custom, raised his Head a little higher than his Body, turning his Face to the East. Which being done, the Archbishop and Assistants took every one a handful of Earth, which the Archbishop blest, and giving it to the Bishop, he strewed it over the Body. Then the Bishop coming out again, the Grave was filled up. From St. Stephen's there is a descent for a League together to Aras, by the side whereof you are to keep along till you come to Zulfa, where you come into the high Road again. There is another way quite over the Mountain, which is the nearer way by a League, but 'tis very troublesome and toilsome, and therefore the less frequented. But to return to the High-Road from Naksivan; half a League from Naksivan you meet with a River which falls into Anas, which is to be crossed over a Stone-Bridge of 12 Arches, though there be but little Water, unless it be when the Snow melts, or the Rains fall. In a Meadow, next the Bridge, where we lodged one time that I travelled that way, there is a Spring of lukewarm Water, which will loosen the Bellies of them that drink it. At this Bridge it is that the Tollgatherer comes and takes his Duties, when the Caravan stays not at Naksivan. You must pay ten Abasses for every Camel's Loading, or nine Livres, which is for the securing the Highways. These Duties are demanded in many places of Persia without searching the Packs. The Governors also in their Provinces are made to answer for every Robbery committed: which makes it so safe travelling in Persia, that you need not keep with the Caravan, unless you will yourself. From this Bridge to Zulfa is but one days journey; which Town being altogether ruined, shows the reason wherefore the Caravan lodges upon the Bank of the River five hundred Paces on this side. Zulfa, the ancient Habitation of the Armenians which Sha-Abas carried into Persia, is a Town squeezed between two Mountains, through which the Arras runs; leaving but little Land on either side. It carries no Boats till about two Leagues below, (for upward it will hardly bear a piece of Timber) and in regard the Country grows low and extends itself into Plains, there is no fear of Rocks, the course of the Stream being very quiet. There was a fair Stone-Bridge, which Sha-Abas caused to be broken down; when he wholly destroyed the Town, that it might be no harbour for the Turks. Neither by the Ruins, nor by its Situation, doth it appear to have been a City of any ancient Beauty; the Stones were clapped unskilfully together without Mortar, so that the Houses were more like Caves than Houses. The North-West side was most inhabited, there being nothing on the other side worth taking notice of. The Lands about Zulfa being very fertile, there are certain Armenian Families returned, who live very quietly. Cogia Nazar, one of the chief Armenians that went out of Zulfa, growing rich by Trade, and being in great reputation with Sha-Abas, and Sha-Sefi his Successor, who made him Kelomer, or Chief Judge of the Armenian Nation, built two great Inns, for the Honour of his Country, in Zulfa, upon each side of the River one. He spent above an hundred thousand Crowns, but dying left two remarkable Pieces of Work unfinished. Half a League on this side Zulfa, before you cross a Torrent that falls into Aras, you may take your choice of two ways to go to Tauris. The one upon the right hand, leading to the Southeast, which is the ordinary Road; the other upon the left hand, toward the North-East, which we took eight or ten in company together on horseback, the last time I went to Ispahan. We left the Caravan, that takes the great Road, and never goes the other way, because it is full of Rocks and Stones that spoil the hooss of the Camels. However I was willing to see a new Country, which I shall describe before I come to the great Road. From the Torrent where we left the Caravan, we went forward, and lay at a Village not above a League and a half off. The next day, after we had kept along by the Banks of the Arras for five or six Hours, we came to Astabat, which lies a League from the River, where we stayed above two Days to divert ourselves. This is but a little City, but a very neat one; where there are four Inns, and every House has its Fountain. The great plenty of Water makes the City very fruitful in all things; more especially in good Wine. This is the only Country in the World that produces the Ronas, for which there is a vast utterance all over Persia and India. The Ronas is a Root that grows in the Earth like Liquorice, and is not much bigger. The use of it is to die Red, and this is that Red which gives that beautiful tincture to all the Calicuts that come out of the Mogul's Country. Though the Roots which are pulled out of the Earth are very long, yet they cut them into pieces not above as long as a Man's Hand, for the better accommodation of Carriage. It is a wonderful thing to behold at Ormus whole Caravans laden with this Ronas, which they Ship off from thence to the Indies. The Root is full of Juice, and yields a very high Tincture; for I remember that an Indian Vessel that was laden with it, being cast away in the Road of Ormus, where the Bags of Ronas floated, the Sea looked of a red colour for several days. Departing from Astabat, it behoved us to provide ourselves with Straw and Barley for our Horses, understanding that we should meet with none all that days journey. From thence we travelled upon a descent for an hour together to the River Aras, which we crossed in a Boat; and all the rest of the day we travelled through Mountains; over Torrents and Stones. That Evening we lay upon the Bank of a small Stream. The day following, after we had travelled through a spacious Valley for two or three hours, we ascended a high Mountain, at the top whereof we met with two or three pitiful Houses, where we stopped that day. The next, which was the fifth after, we left the Caravan, we travelled upon a descent for two or three hours, till we came to a great Village neatly situated, where there grows excellent Fruit. There we reposed for an hour or two; and from thence we came to a great Stone-Bridge on a River where there is no Water but when the Rains fall. It falls into the Lake Roumi; but the Water of the River is so sour and ill-tasted, especially when it is low, that it is not to be drunk. About a quarter of a League from the Bridge are three long Stones set in the Ground like Pillars: the Natives say that they were placed there for a Monument, in the same place where Darius the Son of Hystaspes was elected King by the cunning of the Gentleman of his Horse: from whence to Tauris is but half a League. The Mountains of the Medes which we crossed in this Road, and those which run along toward the ancient Parthians, are the most fertile in all Persia. They bear Corn and Fruit in abundance; for upon the high Mountains there are fair Plains sowed with Wheat, which are extraordinary fertile. The Springs which rise there, and Rains which fall give a fresher beauty and a higher taste to what grows there, more than in any other part of Persia that wants Water; and the products of those Fields are of a higher price. Now for the great Road. The Caravan having crossed the Stream where we left it, lodges the next Night upon the Banks of Aras, over which it ferries the next Morning. It does not go through Zulfa, though it be so near it; because that on the other side of the City there are three Leagues of Way very bad and unfrequented. For which reason you must leave Zulfa on the right hand, which is not much out of the way. After two hours travel you go by a Bridge which is called Sugiac; after which you come upon Heaths encompassed with high Rocks. All this days journey you meet with no Water, but only one little Fountain, and the Water is so bad that the Beasts will hardly drink it. The day following you travel through an even Country, but very barren: where you meet with nothing but a forlorn Inn; though it be a place where Cost has been bestowed, and built all of Freestone, that was fetched a great way off. The next Stage is Marante, famous for the Buryingplace of Noah's Wife. The Town is not very big; resembling rather a Thicket than a City: but the situation is very pleasant, in the middle of a fertile Plain adorned with several well peopled Villages. This Plain does not extend above a League round about Marante, the Country beyond it being all barren. However it is not altogether unprofitable: for being a continual Heath, it affords feeding for the Camels, which are there bred for the Caravans. Which is the reason that there are so many Camel-Masters at Sugiac and Marante, who furnish great part of the Road. At Marante you must pay thirteen Abasses, or four Crowns for every Camel's Load, for the security of the Road. Leaving Marante, you lodge the next night a League from Sophiana in a bushy Plain, where the Water is worth nothing; after you have travelled a mixed Country, barren enough, where you meet with but one Inn in a Valley: but it is a very fair one. Sophiana is an indifferent large City, which you cannot see till you come within it, by reason of the great number of Trees planted in the Streets and round about it, which makes it look rather like a Forest than a City. The next day, which is usually the tenth days journey from Erivan; the Caravan, having crossed fair, large and fertile Plains, arrives at Tauris. Those Plains are watered with several Streams that fall from the Median Mountains; but the Water is not all of the same goodness, for there is some which cannot be drunk. In the midway between Sophiana and Tauris, lies a Hill, from whence you have a prospect over those Plains, upon which the Army of Sultan Amurath Encamped, when he besieged Tauris. The news coming to Sha-Sefi King of Persia, that he had burnt it, and was marching further into the Country with a hundred thousand Men, Let him come, said he, without any disturbance, I know how to make the Turks pay for their Invasion without any great trouble. They were then not above fifteen days march from Ispahan, when Sha-Sefi turned the course of all the Streams both before and behind, which only run from certain Springs, and are brought in Cutts or Channels into the Inland-parts of Persia, where there are no Rivers: By which means the whole Army of the Turks perished for want of Water in those vast unwatered Countries where they had engaged themselves too far. Tauris lies in 83 Degrees, 30 Minutes of Longitude; and 40 Degrees, 15 Minutes of Latitude, in an open place where there is not a Tree to be seen; and environed with Mountains on every side, but only upon the West. The furthest Mountain is not above a League from the City; but there is one which almost touches it, being only separated from it by the River. 'Tis a good Country, and fruitful in Corn; there is good Pasturage, and great store of Pulse. Some think that Tauris was the ancient Ecbatane, the Metropolis of the Empire of the Medes. It is at this day a great City and well peopled, as being the Mart for Turkey, Muscovy, the Indies, and Persia. There are an infinite number of Merchants, and vast quantities of all sorts of Merchandise: particularly of Silk, which is brought out of the Province of Guilan, and other places. There is also a great Trade for Horses, which are handsome and cheap. Wine, Aquavitae, and indeed all sorts of Provisions are cheap enough; and Money trolls about in that place more than in any other part of Asia. Many Armenian Families have got great Estates there by Trade, and understand it better than the Persians. A little River, the Water whereof is very good, runs through the middle of Tauris; it's called Scheinkaie, over which there are three Bridges to cross from one part of the City to the other. The most part of the Buildings in Tauris are of Bricks baked in the Sun; the Houses not being above one or two Stories high at most. The tops of the Houses are terraced; the Roofs within are vaulted, and plastered with Earth mixed with chopped Straw, which they whiten afterwards with Lime. In the year 1638 the City was almost ruined by Sultan Amurath; but it is almost all rebuilt again. There are in it Bazars, or Market-houses, which are well built, and many Inns very commodious, two Stories high. The fairest is that of Mirza-Sadé, Governor of the Province, who caused it to be built with a Market-house adjoining, to which he has added a Mosque and a College, with good Revenues. The great Trade of Tauris renders it renowned over all Asia: for it has a continual Traffic with Turks, Arabians, Georgians, Mengrelians, Persians, Indians, Muscovites, and Tartars. The Bazars or Market-houses, which are covered, are always full of Goods: for there are some which are peculiar to the Handicraft-Trades; the most part whereof are Smiths, such as make Saws, Axes, Files, and Steels to strike Fire, with Tobacco-stoppers belonging to them. Some there are that make Padlocks: for the Eastern People fasten their Doors only with wooden Bolts. There are also Turner's, that furnish the neighbouring Parts with Spinning-Wheels and Cradles: and some Goldsmiths, that make trifles of Silver. But there is abundance of Silk-weavers that are Artists, and work very neatly; and indeed there are more of those than of any other Trade. Here it is that they dress the greatest part of the Chagrin-skins that are vended so plentifully all over Persia; for there are none unless it be the Countrypeople, but wear Boots or Shoes of Chagrin-leather. This Leather is made either of the Hides of Horses, Asses, or Mules, and only of the hinder part of the Hide: but the Asses Hid has the best grain. There are to be seen at Tauris, Ruins of the stately Edifices round about the great Piazza, and the neighbouring Parts: they have also let run to ruin four or five Mosques of a prodigious height and bigness. The most magnificent and the biggest stands as you go out of the Town, in the Road to Ispahan. The Persians will not come near it, but look upon it as defiled, and a Mosque of Heretics, in regard it was built by the Sunnis, or the followers of Omar. 'Tis a vast Structure fairly built, the Front whereof is fifty Paces broad, with an ascent of eight Steps. It is lined without with Brickwork varnished with different Colours; and adorned within with very fair Painting A Pantique, and abundance of Cifers and Arabian Letters in Gold and Azure. Upon two sides of the Forefront are reared two Minarets or Towers very high, but not very wide, yet with Stairs to go up to the top. They are lined with varnished Brickwork, which is the usual Ornament of the Persian Buildings: and at the top stand two Cupola's, formed like the Turbans which the Persians wear. The Gate of the Mosque is not above four Foot wide, cut out of a great transparent white Stone, four and twenty Foot high, and twelve broad. Entering at the Door of the Mosque, you come into a spacious Duomo, thirty six Paces in Diameter, raised upon twelve Pillars within, and supported by sixteen without, which Pillars are very high, and six Foot square. Below there is a Balustrade or Rails that run round about the Building; with Doors to go from one side to the other: and the Foot of every Pillar, which is of white Marble, is hollowed into little Niches equal with the Floor, where the People put their Shoes, when they go farther to their Devotions. The inside of the Walls is varnished in Squares of several Colours, with Flowers, Cifers, and Arabian Letters intermixed, and wrought in Embossed-work, so well painted, so well gilded, that it seems to be but one piece of Work, cut out with a pair of Scissors. From this Duomo you pass to another lesser, but more beautiful in its kind. The lower part is of transparent white Stone, of the same nature with that in the Front, cut in great Panes like a Door that never opens. This Duomo has no Pillars, but eight Foot high, it is all of white Marble, where are to be seen Stones of a prodigious length and breadth: The inside of the Vault is a violet Enamel, painted with all sorts of Flowers in Flat-work, but the outside of both the Duomo's is covered with varnished Brickwork, and Flowers embossed A la Moresque. Upon the first the Flowers are black upon green; upon the second, white Stars upon black: which diversity of Colours is very pleasing to the Eye. Near the Door out of which you enter into the lesser Duomo, on the left hand, stands a Chair of Walnut-tree curiously carved, and fastened to the Wall; it stands upon a Platform raised six steps high, without any Canopy. On the right hand stands another Chair of the same Wood, and an exquisite piece of Workmanship; with a kind of State over it of the same Wood, fastened to the Wall. There is a little Rail about it; and the Platform is four steps high. On the Southside of the Mosque there are two white transparent Stones, which when the Sun shines upon them look red: And sometimes after the Sun is set, you may read at those Stones by the reflection of the Sunbeams. Just against the Mosque on the other side is another Front, which is the only Remain of a ruin'd Building. It was the abode of the Sheck-Iman, or the Chief Priest. There had been large Baths which belonging to it, but they are all destroyed; some others there were of less note, which are not looked after. In the great Piazza of Tauris and in the parts adjoining, stands a fair Mosque, a College, and a Castle, which fall to decay; these Buildings being forsaken; by reason they were made use of by the Sounni's, which were followers of Omar. Near the same Church is a ruin'd Church of the Armenians, whether they say St. Helena sent the true Cross. There is another Mosque, which was formerly a Church dedicated to St. John Baptist, where they say one of his Hands was preserved a long time. The Capuchins have a very convenient House at Tauris; for Mirza-Ibrahim Governor of the Province, whose credit is equal to the Can of Tauris, which is the chiefest Command in Persia, favours him very much with his protection. This Governor has made himself very considerable at Court, and very much respected by the King for his indefatigable pains, and his extraordinary agility in augmenting the King's Revenue: having found out such ways for that purpose as never entered into the thoughts of any that preceded him in the same Employment. He is very curious to learn all the Noble Sciences, which is a quality very rare among the Persians: He also takes great delight in the Mathematics and Philosophy, discoursing often with Gabriel de Chinon, Governor of the Capuchins Covent in Tauris. But the great desire which Mirza-Ibrahim had to have his two Sons taught by the said Gabriel, was the chief motive that made him so favourable to that Covent. He bought the Friars a place to build their House, and liberally furnished them for the Expense of the Work. When the Sun sets and rises, there are a certain Company of People who are obliged to make a hideous noise with Drums and Trumpets in the Meidan, or great Piazza of the City. They stand upon one side of the Piazza in a Gallery somewhat raised, which is a Custom observed in all the Cities under the Persian Government. As you go out of Tauris upon the North-side, there is a Mountain close by, there being only the River between it. The name of it is Einali-Zeinali, and formerly there stood upon the top of it a fair Hermitage of the Armenians, which the Mahometans have converted into a Mosque. At the bottom of the Mountain stands a Fortress and a Mosque, which they let go to ruin, because they were built by the Ottomans. A little farther upon the brink of the Precipice stands a Monastery, near to which are two Caves, where are certain Sepulchers and Marble Pillars lying along upon the Ground. There are also in the Mosque certain Tombs of the ancient Kings of the Medes, the Remains whereof show that the Work was very Excellent. Upon the Road from Tauris to Ispahan, about half a League from the utmost Gardens, between several knaps of the Mountain which you leave upon the right hand, upon the top of the highest of all, where there never was any Water, and where it is impossible to bring any, appears a Bridge fifty Paces long, the Arches whereof are very fair ones, but it falls to decay. It was a Mollah that built it, out of what design no person knew: nor can you come to Tauris upon that side, but you must see that Bridge, because there is no other way, there being nothing but Water and Precipices on either hand. Afterwards he confessed that he built it out of mere Vanity, knowing that Sha-Abas, the first of that Name was to come to Tauris. The King indeed came some time after, and seeing an unprofitable Bridge upon the top of a Mountain, he demanded who built it, and what was his design. To whom the Mollah returned this Answer, Sir, said he, I built that Bridge, that when your Majesty came to Tauris, you might inform yourself from the mouth of him that built it. By which it appeared, that the Mollah had no other ambition than to oblige the King to speak to him. A League from Tauris to the West, in the middle of a Field stands a great Brick Tower, called Kanhazun. It is about fifty Paces in Diameter, and though it be half ruined, yet it is very high. It seems to have been the Dungeon of some Castle, there being very high Walls round about it; which though they be but of Earth, nevertheless appear to be very ancient. It is not certainly known who built this Tower, but the Arabian Letters upon the Gate afford us some reason to conclude that it was a Mahometan Structure. In the year 1651 there happened a terrible Earthquake in Tauris and the parts thereabout, by which many Houses were overturned, and this Tower then cleaving from the top to the bottom, a good part of it fell down, and filled up the hollow withinside. Besides the little River that runs by Tauris, there is another bigger to be crossed, about half a League from the City, over which there is a very fair Stone-Bridge. Near to it stands a Sepulchre, covered with a little Duomo, where the Persians say that the Sister of Iman-Riza lies interred; and they have it in great veneration. The River that runs under the Bridge comes from the Mountains of the North, and falls into the Lake Roumi, thirteen or fourteen Leagues from Tauris. They call it Aggisou, or Bitter-water; for the Water is very bad, and without any Fish. The Lake which is fifteen Leagues in compass, has the same quality, the Water being blackish: the Fish that happen into it out of other Rivers that fall into it, presently become blind, and in a short while are found dead by the Shoar. This Lake takes its name from a Province and a little City, which are both called Roumi, being not above eleven Leagues from Tauris. In the middle of the Lake, upon the way that leads to a little City called Tokoriam, there is a little Hill that rises insensibly, the ascent whereof is very smooth, and out of it there rise many little Springs. The farther they run from the Head, the wider grow the Streams: and the Earth which they water is of two distinct qualities: the first Earth that is digged serves to make Lime: the next to that is a hollow spongy Stone, that is good for nothing: but under that again is a white transparent Stone, which you may see through as through Glass, which being smooth and polished serves to adorn the Houses. This Stone is only a congelation of the Waters of these Streams; for sometimes you shall meet with creeping Animals congealed within. The Governor of the Province sent one piece to Sha-Abas, as a great Present, wherein there was a Lizard congealed of a Foot long. He that presented it to the Governor had twenty Tomans, or three hundred Crowns; afterwards I offered a thousand for the same Piece. In some parts of the Province of Mazandran, where the Euxin Sea stretches farthest into the Persian Territories, these congealed Stones are to be found, but not so frequently as near the Lake Roumi, and you shall many times find pieces of Wood and Worms congealed in the Stones. I brought away a Camels-loading of these Stones, and left them at Marseilles; till I could find what use to put them to. CHAP. V A Continuation of the Constantinopolitan Road from Tauris to Ispahan, through Ardevil and Casbin. FRom Tauris to Ispahan the Caravan makes it generally twenty-four days journey. The first day you cross over dry Mountains, and four Leagues from Tauris you meet with one of the fairest Inns in Persia. This Inn Sha-Sefi caused to be built; it is very convenient, and large enough to lodge a hundred persons with their Horses. Over all Persia, especially from Tauris to Ispahan, and from thence to Ormus; you meet every day with Inns at an equal distance. The next day you descend a Mountain, in very rugged and narrow way. At the foot of this Mountain there are two ways for the Merchants to choose that will go to Ispahan. They that will go the ordinary road and the direct way through Kom and Kachan, leave a Lake upon the left hand that parts the two Roads; and they that will go through Ardevil and Casbin, two other good Cities, leave the Lake upon the right hand, and coast along by the side of the Mountain. From Tauris to Ardevil it is not above a dozen Leagues; and having passed the Lake, the Country is very good: Which is the Road I intent to describe first. Ardevil being at so small a distance from Tauris, lies almost in the same Degrees and Minutes of Longitude and Latitude. This City is famous, as well for being the first Market of Silks that come from Guilan, from which it is not far off; as also for the Sepulchre of Sha-Sefi, the first of that Name, King of Persia. The avenues to it are very pleasant, being as it were Alleys of great Trees, which are called Tchinar, planted in a straight line, at a due distance. It is of a moderate bigness, and seated in a lovely opening of the Mountains. The next to the City, which is called Sevalan, is the highest in all Media. The Houses of Ardevil are built of Earth, as are most of the Houses in the Cities of Persia: but the Streets are very uneven, dirty, and narrow. There is but one which is handsome, at the end whereof is built the Armenian Church. A little River runs through the middle of the City, which descending from the neighbouring Mountains runs from East to West. It is by Industry brought into many Cutts to water the Gardens, and in many places there are very fair Trees planted, which are very delightful to the Sight. The Meydan or Market-place is a very great one; more long than round; where stands a very fine Inn, upon one side, which the Can caused to be built. There are several others in several parts of the City, which have the Prospect over several lovely Gardens, especially that which belongs to the King; to which you go through a long and stately Walk of four rows of Trees, at the end whereof stands a large Gate that gives you entrance. Though the Country about Ardevil be proper to bear Vines, yet there are none thereabouts; nor is there any Wine made till about four or five Leagues from the City. The Armenians that dwell in the City are very well stored with it; though there be no place in all Persia, where there is so much Caution to be used, either as to the Importing it, or the Drinking it; both which must be done very privately: Which proceeds from the Mahometan Superstition; the Persians having so peculiar a Veneration for that place, that they believe it a Sin to suffer Wine to be publicly drank therein. The People come in Pilgrimage from all parts of Persia to the Sepucher of Sha-Sefi; which together with the vast Trade of Silk, makes Ardevil one of the most considerable Cities of all Persia. There are several other Buildings added to the Mosque wherein he lies interred; the Entry whereof faces the Meydan, to which it is joined upon the Southside with a large Portal. The Gate is chained with Chains fastened across with great Rings; which if any Criminal Offender can but touch, and enter into the first Court, he is safe; for no person can apprehend him. This is a large Court, yet more in length than breadth, without the Wall whereof that looks upon the Marketplace, several Shops are built for Merchants and Tradesmen. Out of this Court you pass into another which is less, and paved with broad Stones, with a Rivulet running through the middle. The Entry into it is through a Door, fortified with Iron Chains like the former, and is made at a corner of the great Court upon the left hand. It brings you presently under a Portico, where there are fair Balconies raised after the fashion of the Country. Those Balconies are full of several People; either Pilgrims, or persons whose Crimes constrain them thither for Sanctuary. In that place you must leave your Stick and your Sword, before you go any farther; and give something besides to a Moullah, who is always attending there with Books. In that second Court through which the Rivulet glides, on the one side are Baths, on the other Granaries for Rice and Corn; and upon the left hand, at the end of the same Court, there is a little Door which brings you to a place where the Royal Alms are distributed to the Poor, Morning and Evening; being just against the King's Kitchin. This Gate is covered with Plates of Silver; and in the Kitchen there are about thirty Ovens contrived in the Wall, with as many great Caldrons to dress Pilaw and other Food, as well for the Poor as for the Officers of the Mosque. While these Alms are distributing, the Master-Cook, who commands all the rest, sets upon a Chair covered with Plates of Silver, and sees that every thing be done in order. He sees to the measuring out the Rice every day for the Kettles, and causes the Victuals to be divided in his own sight: For there is an excellent Oeconomy in the King's House. At the end of the Portico beyond the first Court there are two Gates, one beyond another, both covered with Plates of Silver; between those two Gates on the right hand appears a little Mosque, where are the Tombs of several Persian Princes of the Blood Royal. You must have a great care not to tread upon the Thresholds of the Gates; for it is a Crime not to be expiated without a severe Punishment. From hence through a little I'll, you come into the Body of the Church, richly hung with Tapestry, and set about with high Desks, where lie a great many Books, wherein the Mullahs, or Doctors of the Law read continually, having Stipends to Officiate in the Mosque. At the end of the Body of the Mosque, is a little Octagonal Monument, like the Choir of a Church, in the midst whereof stands the Monument of Sha-Sefi. It is only of Wood, but curiously carved and inlaid. It exceeds not the height of a Man of an ordinary stature, and seems like a great Chest, having four Apples of Gold set up at each corner. It is covered with a Crimson Satin purfled with Gold; and all the other Tombs that are by it, are covered with Silks as rich. As well in the Choir as in the Body of the Church, there are abundance of Lamps, some of Gold, some of Silver; but the biggest of all is of Silver, gilded and vermilioned, and neatly engraved. There are also six great Branches of a curious sort of Wood, covered with Silver, with great Wax Candles in them, which are never lighted but at their great Festivals. From the Duomo where stands the Tomb of Sha-Sefi, you go under a little Vault, which encloses another Monument of another King of Persia, whose Name I could not learn. It looks like another great Chest, curiously wrought, and covered with Satin. The Roof of the Mosque is adorned within with a Painting of Gold and Azure, a la Moresque; on the outside, with a fair Varnish of several Colours, like the stately Mosque at Tauris. In the adjacent Parts round about Ardeüil are several Monuments worth a Man's sight, being very ancient; and some which are ruined, show by what remains the care which they took to enrich them with curious Workmanship. A quarter of a League from the City stands a Mosque, in which are the Tombs of the Father and Mother of Sha-Sefi. It is a fair Structure, with Gardens and Courts, in one of which there is a very clear Fountain where they keep Fish. Ardeüil is not only famous, as I have said already, for the Royal Sepulchers which are in it, and for the Pilgrimages which have been made to it from all parts of Persia; but the numerous Caravans of Silk, which sometimes consist of eight or nine hundred Camels, add very much to its Grandeur. For being near to Guilan and Shamaqui, from whence those vast quantities of Silk come; and for that the Road from both those places, to Constantinople and Smyrna, lies through this City, there is a continual confluence of Merchants, and all sorts of Merchandizes are here to be had as well as at Tauris. From Ardeüil to Casbin you travel through a good Country; for every three or four Leagues you meet with little Rivers that fall from the Northern Mountains, and water the Earth. The Caravan is usually five days between Ardeüil and Arion, between Arion and Taron two, between Taron and Casbin two more. Half a League on this side Taron you must cross a great River over a stone Bridge, and half a League beyond you come to Kalkal. Arion is a little City, Taron and Kalkal are two great Towns; and there are but these three places in all Persia where there grow any Olives, or that they make any Oil. Leaving Kalkal, you travel over a Plain for three hours, at the end whereof is a Way which you cannot get over in less than four hours. The way is so bad that the Horses and Mules can hardly get up; but for the Camels, they must take the lower Road, which is also very tedious, and full of Stones which the Torrents tumble down, and it is three or four Leagues about. When you are up, the Country is level, and you have not above three Leagues to Casbin. Casbin lies in 87 Degrees and 30 Minutes of Longitude, and 36 Degrees and 15 Minutes of Latitude. It is a great City, the Houses whereof are low and ill built; except seven or eight, which are next to the King's Gardens. It has no Walls, and indeed the best half of the City is in Gardens. There are three Inns, with Market-places round about; one of the three being large and commodious. It is inhabited altogether by Mahometans; or if there be any Christians, they are very few. The Soil about Casbin produces Pistaches. The Tree that bears them is never bigger than a Walnut-tree of ten or twelve years old. The great quantity of Pistaches that are exported out of Persia come from Malavert, a little City twelve Leagues from Ispahan, toward the East. These are the best Pistaches in the World, and the Country being of a large extent, produces them in such abundance, that it furnishes all Persia and the Indies. Leaving Casbin, you come to a little Village where there is but one Inn; and you travel that day six Leagues through Countries fertile enough, and well watered. The next day you travel through a good Country, and in nine or ten hours you come to Denghé. This is a great Village at the foot of a Hill, through which there runs a fair River. It abounds with excellent both White and Claret Wine, where the Travellers take care to replenish their Bottles. But generally they never lie here; being desirous to go a League farther, for a good Inn's sake, which makes it a handsome Stage. At this Town of Denghé it is where the two Roads from Tauris to Ispahan meet: the first, through Ardeüil and Casbin, I have already described. Hither also come the Caravans that go for the Indies through Meshéhed and Candahar, and where they leave Ispahan Road to take the lefthand Way, which carries them Eastward. CHAP. VI The ordinary Road from Tauris to Ispahan, through Zangan, Sultanie, and other places. WE must now return again to the Lake six Leagues beyond Tauris, where they that will take the ordinary short way through Zangan and Sultanie, leave the left hand way of Ardeüil and Casbin. This Lake is usually full of large red Ducks, which are very good Meat. From thence, after twelve or thirteen hours' travel, in which time you meet with three Inns, you come to Karashima, a large Town in a deep Valley, that seems to be well manured. There is in it only a small Inn built of Earth, the Doors whereof are so low, that the People are forced to creep upon their knees to get in. The next day you come to another large Village called Turcoma, where the Soil is fertile, though it be very cold. There are several Caravansera's built like a long Alley covered, which are only of Earth, the Men lying at one end; and the Horses at another. The next day you travel over an uneven and desert Country, and in eight hours' time you come to Miana, a little City situated in a Marsh, where you pay a Toll for Guarding the Highways. In this City is one of the fairest Inns in all Persia. Two hours after you leave Miana, you must cross a River, over a fair Bridge which runs to decay; the Arches whereof are hollow within; it is built of Brick and Freestone, being near as long as Pont neuf in Paris. This Bridge stands almost at the foot of a Mountain called Kaplenton. Sha-Abas caused all the way to be Paved, because the Land is so fat and sloughy, that when it thaws, or that the least Rain falls, it is impossible for the Caravan to pass. Besides, there are a sort of Camels in Persia, that when it comes to rain in a deep Soil, are not able to keep their Legs: nay through the weight of the Burdens which they carry, their very Quarters will rive from their Shoulders, and their Bellies will burst. So that before the way was paved, they were forced to spread Carpets in the most slippery ways where those Camels were to pass: which must be still done in some places, where the Pavement is worn away. At the lower part of the descent toward Ispahan, upon the knap of a Hill which stands by itself, appears an old forsaken Fortress: it is near the Highway, and a River, which falls into the Caspian Sea, after it has crossed the Province of Guilan, where it is cut into several Channels. But generally the Corn and Fruits which grow in Persia by the help of Water forced into Channels, are of little esteem, and much cheaper than those that grow in the Provinces whose Fertility is not Artificial. Moreover, that sort of forced Grain will not keep above a Year; and if you keep it longer, it breeds a Vermin that eats it. 'Tis the same thing if the Corn be ground; and more than that, there breeds a Worm in the Flower, that makes it so bitter that 'tis impossible to eat it. On this side the Mountain Kaplenton, appear at a distance two others very high, one toward the North called Saveland, another toward the South called Sehar●●● there is a third, which cannot be seen in Ispahan-Road, being too far out of the way, near the City of Hamadan. These three Mountains are full of Springs, from whence most of the Streams do fall that water Persia: And the Persians do say, that formerly there were many more of these Springs, but that about a hundred Years ago several of them have been dried up, or otherwise no body can tell what is become of them. There are several Villages near the Mountain that pay nothing to the King, but are obliged to send him a certain quantity of Rice and Butter, for the use of the Mosque at Ardeüil. They have also one great Privilege, That if a Man commits a Murder, and flies to any of these Villages, he cannot be apprehended, nor can the King himself punish him. Leaving the River that runs at the foot of the Mountain Kaplenton, you come to a fair Inn called Tshamalava, built some years ago: and for thirteen hours after, travelling over a very barren Country, you meet with another Inn, which is called Sartcham, standing in a very desert place: which makes the Raders, that lie there to secure the Highways, very insolent, finding themselves so far from any Towns or Villages. From Sartcham you come to a River, by the Banks whereof you travel a good while, till you come to an Inn which is called Digbé, near a large Village. The Structure is very handsome, the lower part being of Freestone undulated with red and white, and very hard. The next day you travel a very uneven Country, till you fall into a deep Valley, at the end whereof you meet with Zangan, a great Town and ill built. However, it has a very fair Inn, which when I went last to Ispahan was so full, that I had like to have lain abroad in the Rain, but for the Courtesy of two Armenians. From Zangan you go, to an Inn, where you must pay the Duties due to the Can of Sultanie. Sultanie is a very large City, which you leave half a Mile from the Road, near to a Mountain. Formerly it had in it very beautiful Mosques, as may be easily conjectured by the Ruins that remain. Many Christian Churches also were converted into Mosques; and if you will believe the Armenians, they will tell you, that there were in Sultanie near eight hundred Churches and Chapels. Three Leagues from Sultanie stands an Inn, and a League farther a great Town called Ija, where there is another very commodious Inn, and most excellent Wine. From thence you go to Habar, an ancient City and of a large extent, but very much ruined, inhabited by Armenians for the most part: Here, for the good Wines sake the Travellers stay to recruit their Bottles. From Habar, after seven hours travel you come to a Village called Partin. From Zangan to Partin you reach in two days. It stands in a fertile Plain, where there are several other Villages. It is not above three Leagues broad, being enclosed on each side, to the East and West, with a row of high Mountains. Having passed this Plain, you come to a barren Country and ill inhabited, which lasts all the day, till you come to Sexava. You pass by the Ruins of a Village, where there are but two Houses standing, with the Tower of a Mosque, which is very high and slender. Then you come to a Mud-wall'd-Inn, built some few years since; and near to that a Castle called Khiara, upon the peek of a Hill, but very ill built. Sexava is a little City in a Soil that bears excellent Nuts. The Inns that are there, being built of Earth, and being but little, are very handsome and convenient, their number supplying the defect of their smallness. From Sexava, after seven hours' travel, you come to a great Inn, called Idgioup, which was formerly a nobler place than now it is, standing alone in a Field. Three Leagues from thence you meet with another spacious Inn, called Cochkeria; and four hours farther you come to the Inn Denghé, where the two Roads meet which I spoke of in the foregoing Chapter. From Denghé to Kom, are three days journey, over a barren, dry, and desert Country, where there is no Water but Cistern-water, except in some very few places, where it is very good. Four Leagues from Denghé is a fair Inn; and three Leagues farther stands another, about a Mile from a Village to the South, where there grows excellent good Wine, white and red. From this last Inn to Sava is not above three hours' travel with the Caravan. Sava is a good City in a fertile Plain, where there are several Villages. The greatest Trade of the Town is in little grey Lambskins, the curl whereof is very neat, of which they make Furs. Two or three Leagues beyond Sava the Country is very well manured, and after you have forded a River half a League from the City, after two hours' travel, you come to one of the fairest Inns in all Persia, which was finished when I went last to Ispahan. From thence to Kom it is about seven or eight hours' journey, through a dry and sandy Road: but half a League on this side Kom the Land is very good and fruitful. Kom is one of the great Cities of Persia, in a fat Country abounding in Rice. There grow also excellent Fruits, particularly large and excellent Granates. The Walls are only of Earth, with little Towers close one to another; and the Houses being only of Earth, are never the handsomer withinside. At the entry into the Town you must cross a River, over a stone Bridge, and then turning to the right hand over a fair Key, you come to an Inn very well built and very convenient. That which is most remarkable in Kom is a large Mosque, no less in veneration among the Persians, than the Mosque of Ardeüil. There it is that you may see the Sepulchers of Sha-Sefi and Sha-Abas the Second; as also the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima, the Daughter of Iman-Hoven, who was the Son of Haly and Fatima-Zuhra the Daughter of Mahomet. The great Gate of the Mosque answers to a Piazza more long than broad, where stands an Inn and certain Shops, which withoutside are somewhat beautiful. One of the sides of the Piazza is closed up with a low Wall, over which appears the Shore, and a River which you cross at the end of the Piazza. Over the great Portal of the Mosque stands an Inscription, in Letters of Gold, in the Praise of Sha-Abas the Second. The first place that you enter into is a Court of more length than breadth, which may be termed a Garden, in regard that on each side of the Alley in the middle, which is paved, there are several square Beds of Flowers; yellow Jasmin, and other Plants; which are railed in by a Rail that runs all the length of the Alley on each side. It is not an easy thing for the Christians to get in to this Court, especially such whose Habits and Aspect they do not like: But as I clothed and carried myself, I never was denied entrance into any place either in Persia or India. In this first Court, on the left hand as you enter, are little Chambers, where they that receive the Alms which by the Foundation of the Mosque are to be distributed every day, come and eat their proportion, and then go their ways. Those Chambers serve as an Asylum to those that cannot pay their Debts, as at the Mosque of Ardeüil. Neither are these Privileged places like ours, where they that retire must live at their own Charge: For in Persia they are fed at the Expense of the Mosque; and being in that manner freed from Care, their Friends more easily bring their Creditors to Composition. Out of the first Court you pass into a second, which is larger, and all paved; and from that into a third, which is square, and raised like a Terrace. You enter into it through a large Gate, at the end of an open Passage, where stand the Lodgings of the Moullahs. Out of that Court by an ascent of Brickwork of ten or twelve Steps, you enter into a fair Court, which is also raised like a Terrace; in the midst whereof is a fair Fountain. It is continually filled by little Pipes of Water which run into it, and is emptied by others that carry the Water into several parts of the whole Enclosure. There are some Buildings in this Court, but one of the sides of it is taken up with the Front of the Mosque, which is no displeasing Structure. There are three large Gates belong to it, very well expanded, according to the mode of the Country; with a Brickwall before, about the height of a Man, with Holes in it for Light, made like a Lozenge. The Threshold of the middle Gate is covered with a plate of Silver; and between these three Gates and that of the Duomo, are several Doctors, that hold Books in their hands, and read perpetually. This Mosque is Octagonal, and at every angle is a small wooden Door of Walnut-tree, varnished with grey and yellow. The Tomb of Sidi-Fatima is at the farther part of the Mosque, there being only room for one Man to pass between the Wall and the Tomb. It is encompassed with a large Silver Grate, sixteen Foot square; the Bars whereof are round, and knobbed in those places where they cross each other; it is lighted by several Lamps of Gold and Silver: which altogether is very pleasing to the Eye. The inside of the Mosque, to the elevation of the Angles that support the Duomo, is composed of square Tiles varnished over with divers Colours; and the Cupola of the Duomo, as also the Vault of the Portico of the Mosque, is a Moresco piece of Painting in Or and Azure. Upon each side of the Mosque, and near the side where the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima stands, appears a great Hall, where the Royal Alms are distributed to the Poor, which consist of Pilaw and other diet, very well dressed. From this Tomb you turn to the left hand toward an Ascent, distant five and twenty or thirty Paces; and at the top of this Ascent is a Door, over which there an is Inscription in Honour of Sha-Abas the Second. The Door being opened, shows you the place where the Body of that King reposes: and through another Door with a Grate in it, you may discover, under a small Duomo, the Tomb of Sha-Sefi his Father; which is covered with a Carpet of Cloth of Gold. They were continually at work upon the Tomb of Sha-Abas, which they said, they would make very famous. I had not been two hours in Kom, but a multitude of People ran by the Inn Gate, all in extraordinary haste. Ask what the matter was, they answered me, that it had been a day long designed for the two Prophets to fight. Thereupon I went to the Piazza, which was so crowded, that I had much ado to get to see. In the first place a sufficient number of Tumblers and Puppet-players, divided into two Bands, kept the middle of the Piazza, and made a sufficient Ring for the Combat. Each Band held a Bull by the Horns, one of which they called Mahomet; and the other Haly: and whether it were by accident, or by the cunning of the Bull-Masters, after an obstinate Combat, wherein the Beasts foamed again with heat and rage; Mahomet at length quit the Field, and yielded Haly the Victory. Then all the People shouted for joy, and all the Piazza was filled with the noise of Flutes and Hautboys; and every one coming as if it were to adore Haly, cried out, Behold the Works of God, that Haly has made! At length they bring the Bull Haly under a Gate, with his Head turned toward the People; where after they have rubbed him to refresh him, after a Combat so courageously maintained, every one sends him Presents, which are all the Tumblers profit. The Can or Governor of Kom, who was present with a hundred Horses richly trapped to behold the Sight, sent the Bull a Present of 50 Tomans, or 750 Crowns. They who accompanied him, and the chief Inhabitants of Kom, gave him some a Garment, others a Girdle. Neither did the meanest of the People spare to send or carry him Fruits, or other things, according to their abilities. The Can was a Lord who was very civil, and there was no Stranger that did not commend his behaviour, in regard he was so obliging. So soon as I came to the place, whether it was that he perceived me with a Dutchman that I had brought along from Constantinople, or whether any one had informed him that there were Strangers near him, he sent for us, and after he had asked us some Questions concerning the occasion of our Travelling, he sent for a Seat and caused us to sit down. Then he asked us whence we came, and what we did at Ispahan; to which when we had answered him, that we went to wait upon the King, he approved our Intention, complaining that we had not given him advice of our Arrival. In the Evening he sent us several Delicacies, among the rest, six fair Melons, and four Bottles of excellent Wine. He appeared to me so brave and generous a Person, that I was very much troubled afterwards for his being in disfavour with the King, and his death, which ensued. For this Can finding the Walls of the City, which were only of Earth, and the Bridge over the River to be out of repair, without writing to the King, of his own head, laid a slight Imposition upon every Basket of Fruit that was brought into the City. Now there are in all the Cities of Persia, persons who are hired to take an account every Week what the Commodities may be worth, and to take care that no more than such a Toll be laid upon any thing; which they tax among themselves, and when they have set the Rate, they cause it to be cried at the beginning of every Week. Sha-Sefi then reigned, it being the year 1632. The King being informed by these people of the Impost which the Can had set upon Fruit without his knowledge, was so enraged against him, that he caused him to be brought in Chains to Ispahan, where he used him with a strange severity. For at that time the Son of the Can stood at the King's Elbow, it being his Office to give him his Pipe and his Tobacco, which is a very honourable Employment in Persia. When the Can came, the King caused him to be carried to the Gate of the Palace, in the presence of all the People, and then commanded his Son to pull the Hair of his Father's Moustaches by the roots from his Skin. After that he commanded him to cut off his Nose and his Ears; after that to put out his Eyes, and lastly to cut off his Head. When he had done the Execution according to the King's pleasure, he commanded him to go and take possession of his Father's Government, and allowing him an experienced Old Man for his Lieutenant, he sent him to Kom with these words; If thou governest no better than this dead Dog has done, I will put thee to a more cruel death than this. Leaving Kom, for four hours you travel over a fair Champain Country, after which you come to a fair Village with five or six Inns in it. Beyond that is nothing but Sand, till you come to a place called Abschirim, or Freshwater, where there are three Inns at a distance from any Villages. From Abschirim to Cachan is six hours' journey through a Corn Country, and stored with great Villages. Cachan is a large City, well peopled, and furnished with all things necessary for humane subsistence: There is an old Wall about it which is fallen down in many places, so that there is no need of seeking for Gates to get into the City. On that side which looks toward Ispahan the Soil is good, and produces great store of Fruit and Wine, which the Jews take care to make. It is reckoned that there are in Cachan a thousand Families of Jews; in Ispahan about six hundred; but in Kom there are not above nine or ten. Not but that there are many Jews in Persia, but those that live in Ispahan, Cachan and Kom, boast themselves particularly of the Tribe of Judah. There are an abundance of Silk-Weavers in Cachan that are very good Workmen, which make all the best purfled Satins mixed with Gold and Silver, that come out of Persia. There they also coin Money, and make Copper-vessels, which they vend in great quantities at a good distance off. The Market-houses are very fair ones, and well vaulted, the Inns large and convenient: but there was one among the rest which was very magnificent, near the King's Gardens, at the entry of the City. As well the Inn as the Gardens were made by the order of Sha-Abas, the first of that Name, who was at a vast charge. The Inn is above a hundred Paces square, built of Brick two Stories high, containing twenty-six vaulted Chambers of a reasonable bigness. It was a Structure too fair to be so little regarded, as now it is, being much fallen to decay. In the middle of the Court was a Fountain to receive Water, which is spoiled. The Persians and Turks are of that bad humour, rather to build new Houses than to repair old Buildings. For which reason they have since built at Cachan four or five Inns, as fair and commodious as that of Sha-Abas. This Custom is grown to that height, that the Children are so far from taking care to repair the old Houses where their Parents lived, that they will not so much as live in them after their decease, covetous of the honour of building Houses for themselves. Before we leave Cachan you must take notice, that as you travel from that City to Guilan you cannot avoid travelling through Plains for twelve hours together, which are all pure Salt; and there is nothing to be met with by the way, but one Cistern; nor can the Water which is in it be otherwise than very bad. Leaving Cachan, you cross a Plain of three Leagues, after which you enter in among the Mountains, where you come to a very fair Inn of Brick. From thence you descend a pleasant Vale, where you travel a long time by the side of a River, over a very narrow way. At the end of the Valley you meet a great Wall, which crosses it, and joins the two Mountains together. This Wall is above a hundred Paces long, above thirty Foot thick, and fifty high. It was the Work of the Great Sha-Abas, whose design it was to stop the Waters that fall from the Mountain, and to make a Receptacle for Water in that place, to serve his occasions. At the foot of the Wall there is a Sluice, which being let down keeps in the Water; but is pulled up to let out the Water over all the neighbouring Lands to the Plain of Cachan. From this Receptacle to Corou, is about two hours' travel. Corou is a very large Village, and well peopled, in a Soil environed with high Mountains, and planted with great store of Walnut-trees. The Houses consist but of one low Story, being built of Flint-stones; but the Inn therein is very fair and commodious. This Village consists but of one Street, but it is almost half a League long, and very troublesome in the Winter, by reason of a great River that runs through it, and the great quantity of Stones that lie in the way. All about this Village, as in several other places of Persia, there are a great number of Jackals; which are a kind of Foxes, that in the night time make an ugly noise; for if but one cry, all the rest will make answer, and set up a howling. From Corou you must travel three Leagues between Mountains, after which you have but twelve Leagues to Ispahan. It is a continued Plain that extends itself beyond the City, and in many places the Soil is very good. At every three Leagues end you meet with Inns. The first is called Achaha-Agakamala; the second, which is the halfway between Corou and Ispahan, is called Michiacour. This place consists not only of one Inn, for there are many others, so that it resembles a large Village. From Michiacour you come to Aganura, another Inn, but ill built; and from Aganura, after you have travelled three Leagues through a fat and fertile Country, you come to Ispahan. CHAP. VII. Of the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan, through Anatolia. SMyrna is at this day for Trade, whether it be by Sea or Land, one of the most celebrated Cities of all the Levant, and the greatest Market for all sorts of Commodities which are transported out of Asia into Europe, or out of Europe into Asia. Hither all the Western Fleets are most regularly bound, that came formerly no farther than Ligorn, and from whence, at times most regularly appointed, the fairest Caravans set out. This City lies in 50 Degrees of Longitude; and 38 Degrees, 45 Minutes of Latitude; at the bottom of a Gulf in the Archipelago, which is seven Leagues in length, upon the right side of the Isthmus which gins to form the Peninsula of Clazomene, right against the Island of Schio. It lies in that part of the Lesser Asia, which the Greeks possessed, under the Name of Iconium; at a distance almost equal, between Ephesus and Sardis; and was one of the seven Churches mentioned in the Revelation of St. John. It is at this day a great City, built like an Amphitheatre, upon the descent of a Hill that looks toward the Summer-West. But it is neither so great, nor so beautiful as formerly it was, as may be easily conjectured by the Ruins of certain Edifices that remain upon that Hill, which from the middle to the top, where the ancient City stood, are altogether uninhabited. There are also to be seen the Walls of a fair Castle, and above that the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, where they say St. Polycarp was exposed to fight with Lions. This Amphitheatre was not in the form of those other, which are usually round; for it contained but half a Circle, being left open to the Seaside. The Turks have almost quite destroyed it: making use of the Stones to build a Fort two Leagues from the City, upon the Gulf, where the passage is very narrow; which the Ships are forced to salute as they enter in, and to speak with when they sail out. Moreover, that they might not be put to send for Stones afar off, they consulted whether they might not make use of the Stones of the Christians Monuments, as also of those of the Jews, which are near the Shore: But they took very few, whether out of kindness to the Tombs, or whether they did not think them so proper for use as the Stones of the Amphitheatre. This Castle had not been long built, but upon an occasion very remarkable. In the last Wars of the Turks with the Venetians, the Ottoman Fleet having been beaten in the Archipelago, the Grand Signior resolved to refit another to Sea, and thereupon sent to all the parts of his Empire, where he knew any English or Holland Vessels usually were wont to ride, to solicit them to serve him for his Pay. More particularly he aimed at those Vessels which were in Smyrna, where there were generally more than in any other Port. But the Captains, who rejected his Proposition of fight against the Venetians, believing that he would put some force upon them, suddenly hoist Sail and got away; it being at a time when he could not keep them in, having no Castle then built to command them. The Grand Visier nettled at the refusal of the Captains, as an affront done to his Master, and to see that the Ships could come in and go out, without any let or molestation, bethought himself (to the end he might keep them for the future under subjection) of building a Fort upon the Gulf, in such a part where the Vessels must necessarily touch; where now there lie great Cannons level with the Water, which no Vessel can escape. Ever since the Convoys will not come to Smyrna, as they were wont to do, but lie out at Sea, out of the reach of the Fort. Near to the Sea are yet to be seen some Remains of a Church, two sides whereof seem to have been distinguished into Chapels by little Walls, which are yet standing: But the Natives doubt whether they be the Ruins of a Church dedicated to St. Polycarp, or of an ancient Temple of Janus. Smyrna has been oftentimes ruined either by the Wars, or by the Earthquakes which often happen there. One time that I stayed there, there happened one, which did not last long, but was very terrible. About sixty Paces from the Sea are to be discerned the Ruins of great Walls two Foot under Water; and at the end of the City that looks toward the Winter-West, near to the Sea, appear the Ruins of a Mole, and certain ancient Magazines. The English Merchants have digged among the Ruins of Smyrna, and have found great store of fair Statues, which they transported into their own Country. There are still found some or other every day; but when the Turks find any, they disfigure them presently. It may be conjectured, that there was one of a prodigious bigness, by a great Toe broken off of some one, and for which I paid sufficiently, out of the desire I had to buy it. I sent it to Paris to a Person of Quality, who looked upon it as a great Curiosity. This Toe was of a hard white Stone, and well shaped, and by the proportion whereof, the Figure could not be judged to be less than the Colossus of Rhodes. Upon that side of the City where the Mole was, stands an old Castle of no defence, at the foot whereof the Sea makes a small Creek, where sometimes the Galleys of the Grand Signior lie. The City is well peopled, containing no less than fourscore and ten thousand Souls. There are reckoned no less than 60000 Turks, 15000 Greeks, 8000 Armenians, and about six or seven thousand Jews. As for the European Christians that Trade there, their number is very small. Every one of these Nations has the exercise of their Religion free to themselves. The Turks have in Smyrna fifteen Mosques, the Jews seven Synagogues, the Armenians but one Church, the Greeks two, and the Latins three. There are also French Jesuits, and Italian Observantins, or a sort of Grey Franciscans. The Turks, the Greeks, the Armenians, and Jews live upon the Hill; but all the lower part toward the Sea is inhabited only by the European Christians, English, French, Hollanders, and Italians. The Greeks have also in the same Quarter an old Church, and some few small Houses, where Seamen make merry. All these different People of Europe are generally known in Smyrna by the Name of Franks. Every Nation has its Consul: and the French Consul has two Vice-Consuls under him; the one at Scalanova, the other at Chio. Scalanova, or the New Port, is two Leagues beyond Ephesus, and being a good Haven, the Vessels were wont to unlade there; but the Turks would not permit it any longer. For that Place being the Dowry of the Grand Signor's Mother, the Vice-Consul agreed with the Governor of Scalanova, who permitted the Transportation of Goods to Smyrna, which is not above three little days journey with the Caravan: A thing that spoiled the Trade of the City, and injured the Officers of the Customhouse. Whereupon they Petitioned the Grand Signior that no more Goods might be unladed at Scalanova: so that now no more Vessels go thither, unless it be to take in fresh Victuals. Chio is one of the greatest Lands in the Archipelago, of which in another place: but the Vice-Consul that lives there has no more business there than the other at Scalanova; for the Vessels that touch there, neither unlade nor export any Goods from thence. The Quarter of the Franks is only a long Street, one side whereof lies upon the Sea; and as well for the Prospect, as for the convenience of Unlading Goods, the Houses upon the Sea are much dearer than those that lie upon the Hill. The Soil about Smyrna is fertile, and abounds in all things necessary for humane support; but particularly in good Oil and good Wine. There are Salt-Pits also half a League from the City, toward the North. The Sea affords great store of good Fish; Fowl is very cheap; and in a word, Smyrna is a place of great plenty. There is a lovely Walk all along the Sea to the Salt-Pits, where generally abundance of People walk in the Summertime to take the fresh Air: and there being more liberty at Smyrna than in any other part of Turkey, there is no necessity of taking a Janisary along, when a man goes abroad. If a man loves Fowling, it is but taking a Boat, which lands him two or three Leagues from the City, toward the Mountains, where there is so much Game that he can never return empty. For the value of three Sous you may buy a red Partridge at Smyrna, and all other Fowl is proportionably cheap. But if Smyrna have these great advantages, it has also its inconveniences: the Heats are very excessive in Summer, and indeed they would be insupportable, were it not for the Breezes that come off the Sea: these Breezes rise about ten in the Morning, and continue till the Evening; but if they fail, 'tis very bad for the Inhabitants. Besides, there hardly passes a Year but the City is infested with the Plague, which however is not so violent as in Christendom. The Turks neither fear it nor fly it, believing altogether in Predestination. Yet I believe, if the Inhabitants of Smyrna would take care to drain away the standing Puddles that gather in the Winter about the City, they would not be so frequently molested with the Plague as they are. It is most rife in May, June, and July; but the malignant Fevers that succeed it in September and October are more to be feared, more People dying of them than of the Pestilence. In all my Travels I never was in Smyrna at these unfortunate Seasons. There is no Bassa in that City; it being governed only by a Cady, who is not so severe to the Christians as in other places: For should he abuse his Office, Constantinople is at hand, where you may complain to the Mufti, and have relief; who for some good Present may be easily persuaded to depose the Cady, as being glad of the opportunity to displace him, and to put another in his room. The Customs of Smyrna yield a great Revenue to the Grand Signior, being paid there very exactly. But were there a certain Rate put upon Commodities, the Merchants, who would otherwise be losers, would not study so many ways as they do to deceive the Customers: For those Customers lay what Price they please upon Commodities, valuing that at a thousand Crowns, which perhaps is not worth three hundred, being absolute Masters of the Rate. In my last Voyage to Smyrna, four Dutch Women that went thither in our Ship from their own Country, carried ashore under their Coats whatever I had of rich Merchandise: for the Turks have such a respect for that Sex, that they will not so much as offer to search them. If a man be taken in stealing Customs, there is no other punishment than to pay double. The Trade of Smyrna is very great, and the principal Merchandizes which the Franks transport from thence, are raw Silk, which the Armenians bring out of Persia; Chamlet-yarn, and Chamlet or Goatshair, which come from a little City called Angouri, fifteen or sixteen days journey from Smyrna; Cotton twisted; Skins and Cordovans of several colours; Calicuts, white and blue; great quantities of Wool for Mattresses, Tapestries, quilted Coverlets, Soap, Rhubarb, Galls, Valanede, Scammony, and Opium; which four last Commodities are to be had in the Country's near to Smyrna, but not in great quantities. The Caravans come generally to this Town in the Months of February, June, and October; and depart again to the Countries from whence they came the same Months. Ephesus not being above a day and a halfs journey from Smyrna, on Horseback I took an opportunity to go thither. There were twelve of us that joined together, Franks and Hollanders, who took three Janissaries along with us, and three Horses to carry our Provision. We travelled this little Journey in the Summer, and setting out of Smyrna about three of the Clock in the Afternoon, we road through a Country part Plains, and part Hills, till we came to a great Village, where we supped. After we had stayed there three hours, we took Horse and travelled till Midnight, to avoid the Heats: By the way we met with nine or ten Arches, very narrow; which we could not conjecture to be any thing else than the Ruins of some Aqueduct. From thence to Ephesus the way is very pleasant, through little Thickets watered with Rivulets. A quarter of a League from Ephesus you meet with another Mosque, which was formerly a Christian Church, built out of the Ruins of the Temple of Ephesus. This Mosque stands enclosed with Walls, and you must ascend up to it by two Ascents of twelve Steps apiece, which bring you to a large Passage. From thence you enter into a large Cloister, the Arches whereof are sustained with Marble Pillars of several colours, delicately wrought; and the lower part of the Gallery, which runs along three of the sides, that consists of great Squares of Stone. The Mosque takes up the fourth side upon the left hand, the Gate being in the middle. The Mosque itself is a wide Arch, supported by five Columns, all of most exquisite Work. There are four of Marble, and every one of a different Colour; but the fifth is a most rare piece, being of Porphyry, and the bigness of it makes it so much the more to be admired. Ephesus does not look like a City, being so absolutely ruined, that there is not a House standing. It was built upon the descent of a Hill, in a situation not much unlike that of Smyrna, at the foot whereof runs a Rivulet, after it has made a thousand Maeanders in the Meadows. The City seems to have been very large, for you may discern upon the top of the Gates the compass of the Walls, with several square Towers, some of which are still standing: and there is one very remarkable, having two Chambers in it, one of which is a very fair one, the Walls and Pavement whereof are Marble. The famous Temple of Diana stood at the bottom of the Hill, near one of the Gates of the City. There remains nothing of it at present but the great Portal, which is entire. The Vaults of the Arches under ground stand to this day, and are very large, but all full of nastiness. We went in with Lanterns; and though you must creep to get in, by reason that the Wind has almost stopped up the Hole, by gathering the Dust about it, yet when you are in, you may go upright; for the Arches are high and fair, and little the worse. Near the Gate lie four or five Columns upon the Ground, and near to that a Fountain, ten Foot in Diameter, and two deep. The People of the Country report, that it was the Fountain wherein St. John Baptised the Christians. For my part, as I have seen in the Indies several Pagods and Edifices much more beautiful than ever the Temple of Ephesus could be; I believe it rather to have been a Basin wherein the People put their Offerings, of which there are several such that belong to the Indian Pagods. The Greeks and Armemenians, but above all the Franks, when they go to Ephesus always endeavour to break off some piece of that Basin, to carry it away with'em as a Relic: but the Stone is so hard, that they can break off but very little at a time. Not far from the Temple appears another Gate of the City, over which there lies a great Stone seven or eight Foot square, with an embossed Figure of Q. Curtius' that Famous Roman, who threw himself, Horse and Arms into the gaping Earth, for the good of his Country. Many Merchants have offered Money for liberty to carry it away, but cannot obtain leave. About five hundred Paces from Ephesus is the Grotto which they call the Seven Sleepers, at the bottom of the same Hill where the City was built. From Ephesus we went to Scalanova, which is not above two Leagues off. By that time you come half the way, the little River that runs by Ephesus falls into the Sea; in the mouth whereof there are always a great number of Greek Barks fishing for Sturgeon. Of the Spawn of this Fish they make Caviar, and drive a great Trade in it in those Parts: then they take the most delicate and smallest Entrails of that Fish, which they fill with the same Spawn, of which they make a kind of a flat Pudding, as long as a Biscuit, which they call Botargo. This they dry in the Smoke, and cut it afterwards in slices to eat. Upon this and the Cuttlefish the Greeks generally feed during their Lent, which is very austere. Scalanova is a Port of which I have already spoken, and thither we came by seven a Clock in the Evening; where the Governor of the Place, more civil than usually the Turks are accustomed to be, made us very welcome. In the Evening one of our Janissaries had quarrelled with one of our Servants, who thereupon had beaten him; and therefore he complained to the Fellow's Master, who not giving him that satisfaction which he desired, thereupon the Turk studied to be revenged upon the whole Company. For this reason, upon some pretence or other, he went before, the better to bring about his design. We stayed till the Morning, and then departed early from Scalanova, and by Noon we came with good Stomaches to the Mosque near Ephesus, where we had been the day before: And some of the Company thought it a very convenient place to dine in, i'the shade; thereupon we sent for our Provisions, with a Borachio of Wine, and another of Water, and fell to eating in the Passage into the Mosque, not dreaming any harm. We had not been long at it, when we perceived two or three Turks about two hundred Paces off, who came from a Village very near to the Mosque. I knowing the custom of the Country better than they, told them, that they were certainly coming to pick a quarrel with us, and therefore caused them to hid the Bottle of Wine immediately; for it was then the Turks Ramezan, or Lent; during which time Wine is strictly forbidden. These two ill-contrived and ill-clad Fellows were the Janissaries of the place, whom the Cadi had sent, upon the information of our Janisary (who knowing we had eaten in the same place before, as indeed we had done, made no question but we would do so again) thinking to surprise us as we were drinking Wine, in a place which they esteem Sacred, and by consequence was among them accounted an act of Sacrilege. Christian Dogs, cried they, when they came near us, to eat and drink in a Mosque, and profane a holy place as you do, at a time that renders the offence more criminal! No, cried I, answering for the rest, we drink no Wine, we drink nothing but Water, and you may taste it, said I to him that was the most busy; with that I caused a Glass to be poured out and given him; and I gave one of the Turks a private wink, who understanding it was a promise of gratuity, turned about to his Comrades, and cried, 'Tis very true, they drink no Wine. However in regard they had Orders to bring us before the Cady, there was no contending. Thereupon I and three others undertook to and answer for all the rest. The Cady reviled us as bad as the Janisary at first; but he was not only surprised, but very much troubled, when they all unanimously affirmed that we drank no Wine, believing they were confederates with us. But I had cunningly slipped eight Ducats into the Hand of the Turk to whom I had made a sign with my Eye, who overjoyed at so plentiful a gratuity, had over-persuaded his Comrades not to say any thing against us. The Cady though he did not like their Testimony, yet called for Coffee for us, according to the custom of the Country, and sent us to his Lieutenant; who having been often greased in the Fist by the Smyrna-Merchants, received us very kindly, and told us that the Cady was but newly come to his Place, and was needy; however a small matter would content him. Thereupon we gave the Lieutenant twenty-five Ducats, who most certainly went snips with the Cady, and so returned us to our Company, who were much afraid we would not have come off so. We were resolved to return to Smyrna not the same way we came, and so we took another Road, which was a very pleasant way, partly over firm Sands, and partly through Meadows, where we met with several narrow Dikes very well Paved. Then we cross a rugged high Mountain, and lay in a Mahometan Barn. The next day we returned to Smyrna, having finished our small Journey to Ephesus in five days. When we told the Consuls how the Janisary had betrayed us, they made their Complaint to the Janisary Aga and the Cady, who, for his punishment put him out of the Consul's service, which is an advantageous Employment. For besides that the Consul's Janissaries are exempt from the Duties of War, they are well placed; for there is never a Merchant that is not beneficial to them some way or other; especially at good times, as New-years-day and other Festivals. Nor could the Janisary have been more severely punished; for the Turks love Money above all things in the World. But to return to our matter. The Rendezvouz of all the Caravans is generally two Leagues from the City, near a Town called Pongarbachi. The day of their setting out being fixed, every one provides himself for his Journey, and meets the Evening before at the place appointed, to be ready at the hour. From Smyrna to Tocat, is thirtyfive days journey with the Caravan, and the last time I went we made it thirty-eight from Pongarbachi. The first day we travelled eight hours through a Country whose prospect was not unpleasing, leaving some Villages more than a League from the Road; and we lodged in a Park, near the River Pactolus; which is a small River, the Sand whereof shines, and is of several colours. Which caused Antiquity to call Pactolus' Golden-Sanded. It falls from the Mountain Tinolus, and after it has watered the Territory of Sardis, mixes with the River Hermus, that throws itself into the Archipelago through the Gulf of Smyrna. The Mouth of it is not above two or three Leagues from the City, toward the North. The next day in six hours we came to Durgout, a little City in a Plain. All Christians that live not in the Territories of the Grand Signior, and pass that way, once a Year pay Carriage, or a Tribute of four or five Crowns: but the Franks are exempt, both at Durgout and over all Turkey. There resides a Bassa in this City; and we were constrained to stop there a whole day, because the Caravan that comes from Persia arrived at that time, so that they were forced to change their Camels. The third day, after five hours travel in extremity of Heat, we came to lodge near a paltry Village. The fourth day we travelled six hours, and stopped near to a small River. In the Morning we passed over the Ruins of the ancient Sardis, the Capital City of Lydia, and Seat of King Croesus. There were still to be seen the Ruins of a large Palace and two fair Churches, with a great number of Pillars and Cornice of Marble. This City having held out six Years against the Army of Temurleng, who besieged it; so soon as he had taken it, in revenge he utterly destroyed it. There is a Village near Sardis of the same Name, where stood the City, which was one of the Seven Churches mentioned in the Revelation. The fifth day we road for seven hours through a Country but ill manured, and took up our Stage in a Plain upon the side of a River. The sixth day we passed by the Walls of the ancient Philadelphia, called at present Allachars, which was also one of the Seven Churches of Asia. There is something of Beauty still remaining in those Walls, and the City is very large, but ill peopled. It is situated upon four little Hills, at the foot of a high Mountain overlooking a fair Plain to the North, that produces excellent Fruit. To witness its Antiquity, there is yet the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, with certain Sepulchers, from whence the Inhabitants report that the European Christians took out the Bodies that were buried there, and transported them into Europe, believing them to be the Bodies of Saints. It is now all destroyed, but rebuilt of Earth by the Turks after their mode. It was formerly one of the principal Cities of Mysia, and in regard it was always very subject to Earthquakes, the most part of her Inhabitants lived in the Country. The last time I travelled that way, in the year 1664, the seventeenth of June, the Turks were feasting and rejoicing upon the News, as they said, which they had received, of the defeat of the Christians in Candy. But the News was false, and only contrived to encourage the People; for the Grand Signior was then making Levies in those Parts. We lodged that day, after seven hours' travel, upon the Bank of a small River, a League and a half from Philadelphia. The seventh day we travelled eleven hours over a Mountain, where those Trees plentifully grow that bear Galls, and Valanede, which is the shell or rind of an Acorn, that Curriers make use of to dress their Leather. We lodged in a Meadow on the top of a Mountain which is called Ijagli-bogase, or, The Mountain of Robbers. The eighth day we continued our Journey over the same Mountain, which is a very barren Country where there is no Provision to be had. We travelled but six hours, and lodged near a River in a Plain called Sarrouc abaqui. The ninth day the Caravan travelled through dry Lands, where there is not one Village to be seen, and lodged near a Bridge built over a River called Copli-sou, in the Plain of Inahi. The tenth day, after we had travelled eight hours over an uneven and barren Country, we stopped in a Valley near a River called Bana-sou, the Water whereof is not good. In the Night there arose a Tempest that put us all in a disorder, and the Rain that fell was as cold as is it had been in the depth of Winter. We were wet to the Skins, and were forced to throw Coverlets over the Bales to keep the Goods from being spoiled. The eleventh day we travelled through a pleasant Country, between Vales adorned with a most delightful Verdure; and we were in view as we passed along of certain hot Baths, though very little regarded. We lodged upon the Banks of a small River, by the side whereof we had travelled for some hours. The twelfth day we continued our Road for six hours between the same Valleys, and lodged by a River. The thirteenth day we travelled eight hours, and stopped near to a Village in a Country called Doüagasse. The fourteenth, after a Journey of seven hours we passed by the Walls of Aphiom-Carassar, that is, The Black City of Aphiom or Opium; because it has a Prospect over a fair and large Country well cultivated, where they sow great store of Poppies, whence they draw their Opium or Aphiom, as the Turks call it. Aphiom-Carassar is a great City, dirty and ill built, the ancient Name whereof I could never learn, for the Greeks and Armenians are very ignorant. But according to all probability and the situation of the place, it ought to be the ancient Hierapolis situated upon the Maeander, a famous River of the Lesser Asia, that winds and turns the most of any River in the World. And indeed we are the more to seek, in regard the Turks change the ancient Names according to their own custom and pleasure, and give no other Names to Rivers than that of the principal City through which they pass; or else deriving their Names from the Colour of their Sands. There is to be seen in that City an ancient Castle of Freestone upon the Point of a high Rock, separated from the Mountains that are next it toward the South, which make a Semicircle. All the Armenian Christians, Subjects to the King of Persia, passing through Aphiom-Carassar must there pay Carriage, from which they are not exempted, though they have paid it before at Erzerom or elsewhere. The Caravan does not stop at Aphiom-Carassar, as well for that there are no Inns but what are ruined, as for that about a League farther there is a place where you have excellent Fish, and very cheap, and they of the City bring Barley, Straw, and other things which the Caravan wants. The Caravan therefore that day lodges upon the Banks of Maeander, which is to be crossed over a Bridge not far distant from a small Village. In this River are great store of Crawfish and Carp; and the Fishermen will be sure to attend upon the Caravan. I have seen some Carp there above three Foot long. The fifteenth our Caravan began to part itself, some for Tocat, some for the Road to Aleppo; the one part taking the right-hand Road toward the Winter-East, for Syria; the other the lefthand Road North-East, for Armenia. After we were parted, we travelled two or three hours in sight of one another. They that go to Aleppo, fall into Tarsus, where St. Paul was born, and from Tarsus to Alexandretta. But we continued our Road to Tocat, and after we had crossed a great Plain, having travelled six hours, we lodged in a Marshy place near a small Village. There is one thing remarkable in this Road as in many others, which manifests the Charity of the Turks. For in most of the high Roads, that are far from Rivers, they have set up Cisterns, whither when the Rains fail, the neighbouring Villages bring Water for the Travellers, who would else be very much distressed. The sixteenth we travelled eight hours through a very even Country, but ill manured; where we saw a little City called Boulavandi. There are some Mosques, which the Turks have built out of the Ruins of the ancient Greek Churches, from which they have taken Pillars of Marble, and other pieces of Architecture, to adorn their Sepulchers without any order at all, which you meet with very often upon the high Roads; the number is the greater, because they never lay two Bodies in one Grave. There is also in this City an Inn, covered with Lead, which is all the Beauty of it; nor do Travellers make any use of it but only in foul weather. We lodged a League and a half from the City, and stayed there all the next day. The seventeenth we travelled eleven hours through a mixed and uneven Country, and came to lodge in a Village where there are not above three or four Houses, though there be excellent Pasturage about it. There is no Water, but what is drawn out of three deep Wells; for which reason the place is called Euche-derin-giu. The eighteenth we travelled not above five hours through desert Countries, and took up our Stage in a kind of a Bog, near a pitiful Village. The nineteenth, after we had travelled eight hours through spacious desert Plains, we passed through a large Village, the Inhabitants whereof were gone with their cattle into the Mountains, for the cool Air, during the Summer time, according to custom. There is an indifferent handsome Mosque of Freestone; and indeed the Village, the Name whereof the People told me was Tshaciclou, has been much bigger than now it is, as may appear by the Ruins. In two hours after we came to lodge beyond it in a Meadow, near a Rivulet. The twentieth we crossed over desert Plains, but which seemed to have been formerly well manured; and after ten hours' travel, we stopped in a Bottom near a bad Water. The twenty-first, for ten hours the Country was all barren and desert, and we came to lodge at the end of a long Plain, near two Wells, the Water whereof was good for nothing. The twentysecond we travelled through the forementioned Plain, and met with little Valleys where there was very good Pasturage. The Caravan stopped near to a pitiful Village, and a nasty Well. The twenty-third we travelled not above five hours; because it was the time of the Turks Beiram, or Easter, which our Caravan, consisting of Turks, would needs solemnize. That day we travelled through an indifferent good Country, and well tilled, where we discovered several fair Villages; and we lodged upon a rising Ground, from whence we had a very fair and far distant Prospect. The twenty-fourth we travelled six hours, and came to lodge in a Meadow where the Water was bad. Near to that place, we discovered a Plain that extends itself eight or ten Leagues in length, though it be not above one or two in breadth: it seemed like a Lake; and indeed it is only a salt Water congealed, and thickened into Salt, which you can hardly dissolve but in fair Water. This Lake furnishes almost all Anatolia with Salt; where you may buy a Wagon-load drawn by two Bufalo's for 45 Sous. It is called Deuslag, or The Place for Salt; and the Bassa of Coushahar, about two days journey from it, gets by it 24000 Crowns a Year. Sultan Amurath caused a Dike to be cut quite through it when his Army marched to the Siege of Bagdat, which he took from the Persian. The twenty-fifth we travelled nine or ten hours, and met not with one Village, the Country being all desert. We lodged upon a rising Ground, near a good Fountain called Cara-dache-cesmé, or, The Fountain of the Black Stone. The twenty-sixth we passed through a great Village called Tshekenagar, in a pleasant situation, but very ill built; and after we had travelled eight hours, we came to lodge in a delightful Meadow, near another Village called Romcouché. The twentyseventh we travelled nine hours through Countries full of Licorice, and having passed a great Town called Beserguenlou, we lodged in a Meadow. The twenty-eighth we crossed a great River, called Jechil-irma, over a long well built stone Bridge. At the end of the Bridge called Kessré-kupri stands a great Village, wherein the greatest part of the Houses are built under Ground, like Foxes Holes. We put on farther, and after seven hours' travel, we lodged below another great Village called Mouchiour, where there are abundance of Greeks, which they constrain ever and anon to turn Turks. The Country being inhabited by Christians, and fit for the Plantation of Vines, there is Wine good store, and very good, but it has the scent of the Wines of Anjou. The Village is well situated but ill built, most of the Houses being under Ground, in so much that one of the Company riding carelessly, had like to have fallen into a House. The twenty-ninth we road for seven hours through a pleasant Country, where we saw several Villages; near to one of which the Caravan lodged in a Meadow, close by a Fountain. The thirtieth we road through a flat Country, well manured, and stopped near a River wherein there was but very little Water: it is called Cara-sou, or, The Black River. For two or three days together, at every two Leagues distance we observed little Hillocks of Earth artificially reared, which they told us were raised during the the Wars of the Greeks to build Forts upon, for Watch-Towers. The thirty-first we travelled a very uneven Country, but abounding in Wheat, and after we had travelled nine hours, we lodged in a Meadow near a River, which we crossed next Morning before day, over a stone Bridge. The thirty-second, after we had travelled eight hours, we lodged by a River, where we saw a great number of Turcomans: They are a People that live in Tents like the Arabians, and they were then leaving that Country to go to another, having their luggage in Wagons drawn by Bufalo's. The thirty-second we met again with Mountains and Woods, which we had not seen in 18 days before, which had constrained us to carry Wood upon our Camels to dress our Provision: We were very sparing of it, and sometimes made use of dried Cow's dung or Camel's dung, when we came near the Waters where they were wont to drink. We travelled eight hours that day, and lodged in a Meadow where the Grass was very high, yet where there had been Houses formerly standing. The thirty-fourth we forded a deep and rapid River called Jangou, from the Name of the Town next to it. A little above the place where we forded it, we saw a ruin'd Bridge, which had been built over it. The thirtyfifth we travelled eight hours through a fair Valley well manured, and upon the left hand we left a Castle raised upon a Rock. The Caravan lay that night upon a rising Ground near a Village. The thirty-sixth we travelled through the same Valley for eight or nine hours longer; in this Valley were several pleasant Villages, but we lay by a small River. The thirty-seventh we travelled six hours among the Mountains, where there are some very narrow Passages, but store of Water; and we lay in a Vale abounding in Pasturage. The thirty-eighth we road for four or five hours over a rugged Mountain in craggy way, at the foot whereof we met with a Village called Taquibac; from whence it is but five Leagues to Tocat. And these are all the Roads from Paris to Ispahan, through the Northern Territories of Turkey. CHAP. VIII. How the Author was robbed near Tocat, and of a certain sort of rare and fine Wool which he first brought into France. TAquibac is the place where the Persian Caravan uses to meet, when it departs from Tocat to Smyrna; and this is the only place in all the Road where a Traveller ought to stand upon his guard; by reason of Thiefs who haunt these Quarters, and are great Masters in their Trade. Once as I came out of Persia they would needs give me a taste of their Art, notwithstanding all the care I took. There were three or four of us that would needs ride before with our Servants to Taquibac, in expectation of the Caravan which was to come the next day; where we set up our Tents upon the Bank of a small River. I had then a good many Bales of Wool, with which I made as it were a double Wall about my Tent: so that there was but one passage between the Bales, for one Man. In four of these Bales I had a quantity of Musk in leaden Boxes, to the value of ten or twelve thousand Crowns: which Bales I put withinside, so that they touched the Tent and my Beds-head. Next Night, it being very dark, the Thiefs came, and finding the outward Bales smell so strong of Musk, they thought one of those Bales would be a considerable Booty. The Bales were all tied together with a Cord that kept them fast; nor was it easy to undo them, without a noise. They waked me with their bustle at first, and I sent out my Servants to see if they could catch them; but they will lie so close upon their Bellies, that in such a dark Night as that was 'tis impossible to discover them. Thereupon my Servants went to sleep again, and the Thiefs to their work; and having with a great deal of ingenuity cut the Cord, they carried away the two Bales. In the Morning four or five of us with a Camel-driver for our Guide pursued them, and in half an hour we met with the marks of the Robbery; for the Rogues being mad that they found nothing but Wool, which they thought to be of no great value, scattered it in the Highway for two or three Leagues together: so that I caused it to be picked up again, and lost not above fifteen or twenty Pound, I speak this to caution the Merchants that carry Bales of Silk or other rich Commodities, to beware of these Thiefs; for they will come creeping upon their Bellies, and then cutting the Bales with great Razors, will presently empty a Bale of one half of the Goods. 'Tis true, the Wool was of no great value for their use; but it was a sort of rare and very fine Wool, which I carried out of Persia to Paris, where such fine Wool was never seen. As to the place where it is to be had, I met with one of the Gaures, or Persians that adore the Fire, who when I was at Ispahan in the year 1647 showed me a Sample of it, and informed me that the greatest part of this Wool comes from the Province of Kerman, which is the ancient Caramania; and that the best Wool is to be met with in the Mountains that are next to the City that bears the name of the Province: That the Sheep in those Parts have this particular property, that when they have fed upon new Grass from January till May, the Fleece falls off, of itself, and leaves the Sheep naked, and their Skins smooth, like a Pig's that is scalded off; so that there is no need of shearing them, as with us: after they have gathered it, they beat it, and the course Wool breaking, the fine only remains. That if you transport it, before you make it into Bales, you must throw Salt-water upon it, which keeps the Worms out of it, and preserves it from rotting. Now you must take notice that they never die this Wool, it being naturally of a clear Brown, or a dark Ash-colour; and that there is very little of it White, which is also much dearer than the other, as well for that it is scarce, as because that the Mufti's, the Moullahs and other persons belonging to the Law, never wear any Girdles or Vails (wherewith they cover their Heads when they pray) but White: for at other times they wear them about their Necks, as the Women do their Scarves. Into this Province of Kerman almost all the Gaures are retired, and they are they that only Trade in this Wool, and have the whole Manufacture of it. They make those Girdles of it which they use in Persia; and some Pieces of Serge, which are almost as fine and transparent, as if they were of Silk. I brought over two Pieces into France, and presented one to the late Queen Mother, the other to the Princess of Orleans. I could not drive any Trade in this Wool till the year 1654., returning out of the Indies by Sea from Surat to Ormus. To which purpose, I departed from Ormus, and took Guides along with me to show me the way to Kerman, whither I could not get on Horseback in less than twenty-seven days. I dare say that Alexander the Great did not march this way into the Indies: for in the whole extent of the the Country there is no Water to be met with but in some certain places, and in the hollow of some Rocks, where there is not enough neither to water eight or ten Horses. Besides, in some places a man is constrained, by reason of the Mountains, to fetch a great compass about; for a Footman that makes his way through those Rocks, shall go farther in half an hour than a Horseman can do in four. Kerman is a large City, which has been often ruined by being several times taken and retaken; nor is there any thing handsome in it, but only one House and a Garden, upon which the last Khans have bestowed a vast expense to make the place delightful. They make there a sort of Earthenware which comes very near to Porcelan, and looks as neat and as fine. As soon as I arrived, I went to visit the Can, who made me very welcome, and gave order to the Gaures to furnish me with Bread and Wine, Pullet's and Pigeons, which in those parts are fat, and as large as little Capons. The Gaures are they that make the Wine; and to make it more sweet and pleasant, they take away the Stalks, and never press any thing but the mere Grape. The Can was but newly entered into the possession of his Government, and being desirous, according to the custom of the new Governors, to have a noble Sword and Dagger, with a rich Furniture for his Horse, which required some Jewels, I presented him with a Diamond worth eight hundred Crowns, which he caused to be set in the end of the handle of his Dagger. He also desired to have of me as many more Jewels as came to seven or eight hundred Livres: and by the Present and the Bargain I facilitated my purchase of the Wool which I intended to buy. Two days after he invited me to his Entry-Feast, which he made for the chief of the City; and knowing I wanted a Mule, he sent me one well worth a hundred Crowns. This is the Noblest Carriage in all Persia, which the great Personages choose before Horses, especially when they are in years. But it was not the Can alone who was civil to me. A young Lord, who lived in Kerman, and was at the Feast, whose Father had been formerly Can himself, took great delight to discourse with me concerning my Travels; and offered me his service in a very obliging manner. Now the Persians are very curious, and great admirers of the Rarities of Foreign Countries: which inclination led the young Lord to inquire of me whether I had any Fire-Arms, telling me he would content me for them to my satisfaction. The next Morning I presented him with a Carbine, and a pair of Pistols that pleased him exceedingly; and a little Watch, for which I would take no Money, whereat he seemed to be not a little troubled. However he sent me a stately Horse worth about two hundred Crowns, or twelve Tomans. This young Lord was of a clear humour, civil, accomplished, generous, and did every thing with a good grace. So that when he sent me the Horse, he sent to entreat me withal, if I did not like that Horse, to come and choose which I liked best in his Stable. By the favour of this Lord and the Can, I made good the Purchase that I intended. For the People began to murmur (knowing what a Parcel I had got together) and told the Can that I would carry away all the Cloth out of the Country, so that they should have none to set the Poor on work. Thereupon the Can sent for me, and for those reasons told me I must buy no more. To send off the blow, I made answer, That it was the King of Persia's desire to try if we could make as fine Cloth of his Wool in France, as they did in England and Holland; and that if it succeeded, I should bring French Workmen into Persia, and so by settling the Trade in his own Country, free him from the Charge of foreign Manufactures. This silenced the Can, so that I still bargained for more. But when I was returned to Ispahan, the People of the Country would not keep touch with me. However, I wrote so home to the Can, threatening withal to complain to the King, that he fearing the King's displeasure, forced the Natives to send me my Bargain to Ispahan. CHAP. IX. Of the Road from Kerman to Ispahan; and the Fortune of Nazar Mahomet-Ali-Beg. FRom Kerman to Ispahan is no less than five and twenty days on Horseback. In those places where there is any Water, the Country is very good; but those places are very rare; for the Road is generally Sandy, and offensive to the Eyes. The chiefest comfort to a Traveller is, that every Evening he meets with an Inn, where there are Cisterns, which is a great refreshment in those desert Countries. The most part of those Inns were built some Years since by the special care of Mahomet-Ali-Beg, Nazar, or Grand Master of the King's House and Treasury; a Person the most Virtuous of any that Persia can boast of for many Years. He was Generous, and favoured the Franks in all things, for he loved them exceedingly. He faithfully served his King, and defended the People against the Oppression and Insolences of the Great ones; which drew upon him the hatred of many: but still he preserved himself by his sincerity and prudence; as by the following Story will remarkably appear. The Great Sha-Abas the First, being one day a Hunting in the Mountains far out of sight from his followers, met a young Lad playing upon a Pipe by an Herd of Goats. The King ask him some Questions, he answered him to the purpose to every one, not knowing who he was. The King surprised at his Reparti's, made a sign to Iman-couli-Kan Governor of Schiras, who was just come up to him, not to tell the Goatherd who he was. After that he proceeded to ask him other Questions; to which the young Man answered so smartly, that the King could not choose but stand in an amaze. Thereupon the King asked the Can what he thought of the Goat-herds Wit? Who answered, that he believed if the Boy were taught to Write and Read, he might do good service to his Majesty. Upon that the King immediately caused him to be sent to School, where the young Lad being naturally of a solid Wit, clear Judgement, and happy Memory, grew so accomplished, and so well acquitted himself of several Employments which his Majesty bestowed upon him, that the King advanced him to the Office of Nazar, or Grand Master of the House, and did him the Honour to call him Mahomet-Ali-Beg. The King observing his fidelity, and good management of all things, sent him twice Ambassador to the Great Mogul, and both times was extremely pleased with his Negotiation. Mahomet loved Justice, and would not stoop to be corrupted by Presents: A thing which is very rare among the Mahometans. This great Integrity of his made all the Lords of the Court his Enemies, especially the Eunuches and the Women, who have always the King's Ear. But while Sha-Abas lived, there was no person that durst open his lips against the Nazar, so much was he in favour, and that justly, with the King. Sha-Sefi succeeding his Grandfather Sha-Abas, and being very young, the Nazar's Adversaries thought they had now a fair Game to play. Thereupon the Eunuches, who are always at the King's Ear, suggested to him many things to the disadvantage of the Grand Master; but whatever they said, the King gave little heed to their Tales. At length, one day when the King was looking upon certain Skains and Daggers set with precious Stones, one of the Eunuches told him those were trifles, and then desired his Majesty to send for a Scimitar that the Grand Signior had sent Sha-Abas, all over set with Diamonds. True it is, that the Grand Signior had sent a rich Scimitar to Sha-Abas; but Sha-Abas had defaced it long before Mahomet's time, and had made a noble Jewel of the Stones that adorned it. Thereupon this Scimitar was sought for in the Treasury, where Mahomet was chief Officer; but not being to be found, the King was troubled, finding it registered in the Book of Presents. Then certain Eunuches and Grandees of the Court took their opportunity to rip up Mahomet's Life; they represented to the King how many Inns, Bridges, and Dikes Mahomet had built at his own charge; what a House he had reared for himself, fitting for his Majesty to live in: and aggravated withal, that he could not do such great things as those, without purloining notably from the Public Stock; for which he should do well to call him to an account. As they were thus discoursing, Mahomet came into the Presence, to whom the King (not receiving him as he was wont to do) spoke some hard words about the Scimitar that could not be found: telling him withal, that he would see if all the rest of the things in the Treasury were agreeable to the Register, and then gave him fifteen days time to give in his Account. Mahomet not at all moved, replied to the King, that if his Majesty pleased he might come to the Treasury to morrow: and withal besought him so to do, though the King a second time gave him fifteen days. Thereupon the King did go to the Treasury next morning, according to Mahomet's desire, and found all things in good order; having heard before what became of the Scimitar. From thence he went to Mahomet's House, who made the King a mean Present: For it is the custom, that he whom the King honours with a Visit, must make a Present to his Majesty. After the King had received it, he walked up and down, and viewed the Chambers, Halls, Parlours and Rooms of State; and wondered to see them so ill set out with plain Felts, and course Carpets; whereas in other Lords Houses a man could not set his Foot upon any thing but Cloth of Gold and Silk. For the King, as they had set the Nazar out, expected to have found other things; which made him admire at so great a Moderation in so high a degree of Honour. Now at the end of a Gallery there was a Door locked with three great Padlocks. Of this the King took no notice: whereupon the Meeter, who is the White Eunuch, and chief of his Chamber, as he came back, showed the King the Door that was so strongly Padlocked; which made the King curious to have it opened: withal, ask Mahomet what he had got there locked up with so much care? Oh Sir, said he, it behoves me to keep that locked, for there is all the Estate I have in the World. All that your Majesty has seen in this House is yours, but all that is in that Chamber is mine, and I dare assure myself, your Majesty will be so gracious as never to take it from me. Those words inflamed the King's curiosity so, that he commanded the Door to be opened: But he was strangely surprised, when he saw nothing more within than Mahomet's Sheephook, that lay upon two Nails, his Scrip wherein he used to put his Victuals, his Bottle for his Water, his Pipe, and his Shepherd's Weeds, all hanging against the Wall. The Nazar beholding the King's astonishment at such a Sight, Sir, said he, when the King Sha-Abas found me in the Mountain keeping Goats, then that was all I had, and he took nothing from me: I beseech your Majesty that you would not deprive me of these things neither; but rather, if you please, let me resume them again, and fall to my old Calling. The King touched at so high a piece of Virtuo, caused himself to be disappareled, and gave his Habit to the Nazar, which is the greatest Honour that the King of Persia can bestow upon a Subject. Thus Mahomet continued, and died honourably in his Employment. This brave Person was the Protector of all the Franks in Persia: and if any one had done them wrong, upon complaint he did them Justice immediately. One day as I was shooting Ducks, upon the River of Ispahan near the Nazar's Gardens, with two Servants, some of the Nazar's people that did not know me set upon me, and would have taken away my Gun; which I would not let go till I had broke the Stock about the Shoulders of the one, and fling the Barrel at the other's Head. Thereupon I took some of the Franks along with me, and complained to the Nazar: He testified his sorrow for what had happened, and gave us evident Proofs thereof, by the blows which he caused to be laid upon those that had done me the injury. Another time, Sha-Sefi being upon his return from Guilan, his Tents were set up near Zulfa in Armenia, where the King stayed to hunt two or three days. Now among the rest of the Courtesans that followed the Court, to divertise the King with Dancing and Mummery, there was one who was perfectly handsome, to whom the King had already sent Presents; which could not be unknown to any Lord i'the Court. But the Nazar's Son, for all that, being in the heat of Youth, got this Courtesan to his Tent, and there lay with her: which came to his Father's Ears next day. The Nazar, whether out of his zeal to the Ring, or whether it were an effect of his prudence to prevent the King's anger, which would have certainly been the death of his Son, caused him to be drubbed, after the manner of the Country, and bastinadoed all over, till the Nails of his Toes dropped off, and that his Body was almost a perfect Jelly. Which when the King understood, together with the Young Man's Crime, he said no more, but that the Nazar had done wisely by punishing his Son himself, to prevent his Justice. But to return to the Road from Kerman to Ispahan. The first day that I set out from Kerman, at my Stage in the Evening I met with a rich Moullah, who seeing I had Wine, civilly offered me some of his Ice to cool it. In retaliation, I gave him some of my Bottle. He invited me to his House, which was well built, with a handsome Garden with Water in it. He entertained me with Spoon-meat, according to the mode of the Country; and when I took my leave, he filled my Borachio with very good Wine. The following days I saw nothing worthy observation; the Country being as I have already described it. Yezd lies in the Road, almost in the midway between Kerman and Ispahan, in 93 Deg. 15 Min. of Longitude, and 13 Deg. 45 Min. of Latitude. It is a great Town in the middle of the Sands, that extend themselves for two Leagues round it: so that when you leave Yezd you must take a Guide, for upon the least Wind the Sand covers the Highway, whereby a man may be apt to fall into Holes, which seem to have been either old Cisterns, or the Ruins of ancient Buildings. Between the Town and the Sands there is a little good Soil, which produces excellent Fruits, but above all, Melons of several sorts: the Pulp of some is green, of others yellow and vermilion; and some there are, the meat whereof is as hard as a Renneting. There are also very good Grapes, and good Wine; but the Governor will not permit the Inhabitants to make Wine. Some therefore they dry, and of the rest they make a kind of Confection to cat with Bread. There are also abundance of Figs, which are large and well tasted. They distil vast quantities of Rose-water, and another sort of Water with which they die their Hands and Nails red, which they squeeze out of a certain Root called Hina. There are three Inns i'th' City, and several Bazars or Market-places covered and vaulted, which are full of Merchants and Workmen's Warehouses. They also make at Yezd several Stuffs of Silk intermixed with Gold and Silver, which they call Zerbaste; and another sort of Stuff of all pure Silk, called Daraï, like our smooth stripped Taffatas. Other Stuffs they make, half Silk half Cotton; others all of Cotton, like our Fustians. They make also Serges of a particular Wool, which is so fine and delicate, that it looks handsomer, and is much better than Silk. Though I had nothing to do, I stayed in Yezd three days, because I met with some Armenians of my acquaintance. In which time I found the general Opinion to be true. For certainly the Women of Yezd are the handsomest Women in all Persia. There is no Feast made, but five or six of them come to divertise the Guests with Dancing, who are generally none of the meanest Beauties and Conversations among them. However it comes to pass, the Persian Proverb is, That to live happy, a Man must have a Wife of Yezd, cat the Bread of Yezdecas, and drink the Wine of Schiras. CHAP. X. Of the Caravansera's, and Government of the Caravans. THE Caravansera's are the Eastern Inns, far different from ours; for they are neither so convenient, nor so handsome. They are built square, much like Cloisters, being usually but one Story high; for it is rare to see one of two Stories. A wide Gate brings ye into the Court; and in the midst of the Building, in the front, and upon the right and left hand, there is a Hall for Persons of the best Quality to keep together. On each side of the Hall are Lodgings for every man by himself. These Lodgings are raised all along the Court two or three Steps high, just behind which are the Stables, where many times it is as good lying as in the Chamber. Some will rather lie there in the Winter, because they are warm, and are roofed as well as the Chambers. Right against the Head of every Horse there is a Nich with a Window into the Lodging-Chamber, out of which every man may see how his Horse is looked after. There Niches are usually so large, that three men may lie in them; and there it is that the Servants usually dress their Victuals. There are two forts of Inns. For some are endowed; where you may be received for Charity's sake; others, where you must pay for what you call for. There are none of the first, but between Buda and Constantinople. Nor is it lawful for any others to build such, but only the Mother and Sisters of the Grand Signior, or such Viziers, and Bassa's as have been three times in Battle against the Christians, In these Inns, which are built out of Legacies, there is a very good allowance of Diet to Travellers, and at your departure you have nothing to do but to thank the Benefactor. But from Constantinople to Persia, there are none of those endowed Inns; only such where you have nothing but bare Walls. It is for you to provide Utensils for your Kitchen, and a Bed to lie on: as for Provision, the people bring Lambs, Pullet's, Butter, and Fruits in their seasons: or else you may buy it, provided beforehand by the Master of the House. There you also meet with Barley and Straw for the Horses, unless it be in some few places that I have been at upon the Road. In the Country you pay nothing for your Chambers; but in the Cities you pay something, though it be but a small matter. Usually the Caravans never go into the Towns, which are not able to contain so many People and Horses. When you come to your Quarters every one looks after his own Chamber, for there is no regard to Poor or Rich: sometimes out of Breeding, or out of Interest, an ordinary Tradesman will give way to a great Merchant; but no man is permitted to leave the Chamber which he has once made choice of. In the night the Innkeeper shuts up his Gates, being answerable for all things that shall be lost; for which reason he keeps a Guard about the Inn. As for the Persian Caravansera's, they are more commodious, and better built than those of Turkey, and at more reasonable distances, throughout almost all the Country. By which description of Inns it is easy to observe, that though these Caravansera's are not so commodious for the Rich as our European Inns, yet they are more convenient for the Poor, to whom they never refuse to give admittance: no person being obliged to eat or drink more than he pleases; but every one being allowed to spend according to his Stock, without grumbling. You may travel in Turkey or Persia, either with the Caravan, or else in company, ten or twelve together, or else alone with a Guide. The safest way is to go with the Caravan, though you are longer upon the Road, by reason of the slowness of their march, especially when the Caravans consist of Camels. The Caravans are as it were great Convoys, which consist of a good number of Merchants, that meet at certain times and places, to put themselves into a condition to defend themselves from Thiefs, that are very rise in Troops in several desert places upon the Road. These Merchants choose among themselves a Caravan-Bashi, who order them how they shall march, assigns the places of lodging at night, and who with the chief of the Caravan, is a kind of Judge of the differences that fall out by the way. There is no honest man that covets the employment; for the Caravan-Bashi, being to discharge several small duties upon the Road, however he behave himself, is still suspected for his fidelity. When the Turks are most numerous, they make choice of a Turk; when the Armenian Merchants are most, they choose an Armenian. There are two sorts of Caravans. There are Caravans which consist of Camels, which are the most usual; in regard that Camels are cheap, and for that some Camels will carry as much as three Horses, others as much as four or five. But among the Caravans of Camels, there are several Horses and Mules, which the Merchants themselves ride upon; it being very tedious to ride upon a Camel when he only goes a footpace, but very pleasant when he goes upon his large trot. There are other Caravans that consist only of Horses; and among these, if the Merchant have none of his own, he may hire one. The Servants ride upon those Horses that are least laden; but at Smyrna you may meet with several good Horses very cheap, from thirty to sixty Crowns. As for those persons that are either unwilling or unable to be at any expense, they make use of Asses, of which there are enough to be had. Above all things, you must take care to provide Packhorses to carry your Wine; for the Camel-Masters being Mahometans, will not permit you to lad their Camels with any such Liquor; that Beast being particularly consecrated to Mahomet, who so strictly forbade the use of Wine. You put your Wine in Bottles made of wild Goats Skins, with the hairy side turned innermost, and well pitched within. There are some of these Bottles from which they take off the Hair; but they are not so good, as being seldom without holes. These Camel-Masters are an insolent sort of people, which you shall never know how to deal with, unless you can bring them to punishment. There was one that played me some of his jades tricks in the Road from Smyrna to Tauris; but when I came to Escrivan, I complained to the Can, who presently caused a hundred Bastnadoes to be given him upon the spot. Nor is there any other way to bring those Scoundrels to reason, especially at Smyrna and such other places, where the Merchants have their Consuls, who upon the least complaint to the Cady have Justice done them immediately. The examples of some of these Camel-drivers that have been paid off, keep the rest in good decorum; and they will be very tractable for a good while after. The Journeys of the Caravans are not equal; sometimes not above six hours' travel, sometimes ten, and sometimes twelve; it being the convenience of Water, which is not every where to be met with, that is the Rule of Lodging the Caravan. At all times the Caravan travels more by night than by day; in Summer to avoid the heat, and at other times, that you may be sure to have day enough to set up your Tents. For if the Caravan should come to pitch in the night, it would be impossible for them to find where to set up their Tents, to dress and look after their Beasts, make ready their Kitchens, and provide things necessary for so large a Company. True it is, that in the depth of Winter and in the great Snows, they seldom set out till two or three hours after midnight; and that sometimes they stay till daybreak. But in Summer, according to the Journey which they intent, they set out either at midnight, or an hour after Sunset. The last time I went from Smyrna the Caravan consisted of six hundred Camels, and almost the same number of Horse. Sometimes their number is greater, so that the Camels going but by one and one after another, a Caravan seems to be an Army; and whether it be in travelling or lodging, they take up a world of Ground. Now by reason they travel all night in Asia, it happens that the Air is indifferent wholesome; and that the Travellers, that lie for the most part upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, find themselves very little inconvenienced by it. The Camels that go into Persia through the Northern Provinces of Turkey, travel like Horses in a Cart, by seven and seven; they are tied together by a Cord about the bigness of a Man's little Finger, and a Fathom long; fastened to the Packsaddle of the Camel that goes before, and to the Head-harness of the Camel that follows. Those little Cords are made no stronger, to the end that if the Camel before should chance to fall into any hole, the Camel behind should either keep him up, or else not be pulled in after the other. And to the end that the Camel-driver who leads the foremost, may know whether the other six follow him or no, the last Camel has a Bell about his Neck, which if it cease to ring, 'tis a sign that some one of the small Cords is broken, and that a Camel has got a mischance. The seventh Camel generally carries the Provisions. For if a Merchant have six Camels laden he is generally allowed one to carry his Provision; if he have but three, he is allowed but half a Camel's load; but if he have nine or twelve, he pays nothing for the carriage of his Provisions of Food, or any thing else that he pleases. Every Merchant with his Servants rides by the Camels that are laden with his Goods, especially in the dark nights; for there are a subtle sort of Thiefs, that have a trick to cut the two Cords behind and before, and without any noise drive the Camel out of the way; for having no Hoofs, his Feet cannot be shod, and consequently he makes no noise. As well Merchants, as others, Camel-drivers and Servants, keep themselves from sleeping sometimes by singing, and sometimes by taking Tobacco, and sometimes by discourse. The Caravan lies in such places as they think most convenient, chief near to the Waterside. When the Sun is set, the Shaoux, who are a sort of poor people, are diligent to guard the whole Field, and take care of the Goods. They walk up and down, and either in the Arabian or Armenian Dialect they cry one to another, God is one, and he is merciful; adding from time to time, Have a care of yourself. When they see that the time grows near to set out, they give notice to the Caravan-Bashi, who gives order to bid them cry, Saddle your Horses; and after that, to cry again, Load. And it is a strange thing to consider, that upon the second Cry of the Shaoux every thing is ready upon an instant, and the Caravan gins to set forward in great order and great silence. Every one takes care to be ready, for it is dangerous to be left behind, especially in those Countries which are haunted with Thiefs. The Wages of these Shaoux is the fourth part of a Piastre, for a Bale, from Smyrna to Erivan. When the Stages are long, and that they believe that they shall not get thither by ten or twelve in the morning, every one carries two small Wallets on each side his Horse, and when they come to the place where they intent to Breakfast, they spread a Carpet upon the Ground and fall to. When you go from Constantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo with the Caravan, it be hoves all people to carry themselves according to the mode of the Country; in Turkey like a Turk, in Persia as a Persian; else would they be accounted ridiculous, nay sometimes they would hardly be permitted to pass in some places, where the least miscarriage makes the Governors' jealous, who are easily persuaded to take Strangers for Spies. Always, if you have upon the Road but an Arabian Vest, with a mean Girdle, whatever Clothes you wear under, there is no danger of passing any where. If you wear a Turban, you must of necessity shave off your Hair, else it will never stay upon the Head. As for Beards, they never mind them in Turkey, the greatest being accounted the handsomest; but in Persia they shave their Chins, and wear their Moustaches: and I remember I have seen one of the King of Persia's Porters, whose Moustaches were so long, that he could tie them behind his neck, for which reason he had a double Pension. More than that, you must provide yourself of Boots according to the custom of the Country; they are made of red, yellow, or black Cordovan, lined with Linen cloth; and in regard they never reach higher than the Knee, they are as convenient to travel in as Shoes. As for Spurs, they never wear any; for the Iron at the upper end of the stirrup, which is foursquare, serves to spur the Horse: so much the better, because it is the custom of all Asia to ride very short. Before you set out, you must provide yourself of several Household Goods, especially of those Bottles that are called Matares, which are made of Bulgary-Leather; every man carries his own at the Pummel of his Saddle, or else fastened to the Crupper of the Saddle behind. Besides these you must buy Borrachoes; the most serviceable things in the World; for they will never break, and will hold above fifty Pints at a time. The smaller Bottles serve to put Aquavitae in: and the Leather whereof they are made, has that peculiar to itself, that it keeps the Water fresh. Then you must provide Food, and make a provision of Rice and Biscuit as far as Tacat; For as for Pullet's, Eggs, and such like things, you meet with them almost every where; as also with Provision for your Horses, and new Bread, unless in some few places. You must also carry a Tent with all its appurtenances, with a Mattress; and Clothes to cover the Horses at night, especially in the time of the deep Snows, wherein you shall find them almost buried the next morning. When the Caravan comes near the place where it intends to stop, every Merchant rides before to take up a convenient place for himself and his Goods, for which he covets a rising Ground, that if it should happen to rain, the Water may run from the Bales. They also in that case lay Stones under the Bales, and a Cloth over them; and the Servants make a Ditch about the Tent for the Water to run into. But if it be fair weather, there is no care taken to set up the Tent: or if it be, 'tis folded up after Supper; to the end the Owners may have the more liberty to look about them, and may be in a better condition to look after the Thiefs. But if there be any likelihood of foul weather, the Tent is let stand till the first Cry of the Shaoux. The Horses are tied before the Tent with Cords fastened to a Nail, and their hinder Legs are tied with other Cords, to the end they may not stir out of their places. If it be not seasonable for them to eat Grass, you must buy Barley and Straw of the Countrymen that come to serve the Caravan there being no Oats, neither in Turkey nor Persia. In dressing your Victuals, you must follow the custom of the Country; which is, to make a Hole in the Ground, and then kindling a Fire in it, to set the Pot over it. But the greatest inconvenience which Travellers suffer with the Caravans, is this, that when they come to Waters, which are only Wells, or Cisterns, or Springs, where only two or three can lad up Water at a time. For after the Caravan is lodged, the Merchants shall be forced to stay for Water two or three hours together; for they that belong to the Beasts of Carriage, will not suffer any person to take any Water, till the Camels, Horses, Asses, and Mules are all served. Nor is there any contending with these Camel-drivers and Muleteers; for as they are a rude sort of people, a Man runs the hazard of his Life by contesting alone: of which one Example may suffice for all. Setting out one day from Bander-Abassi, for Ispahan, with a Merchant of Babylon, as we came to the Inn where we lay the first night, which was called Guetchy, the Merchant commanded one of his Slaves who was a Cafer of Mozambique, to fetch him some fresh Water, at the Cistern, to drink: The Cafer went thither, and returned without any Water, telling his Master, that the Camel-drivers and Muleteers threatened to beat him, and would not let him come near the Cistern. The Merchant either ill advised, or not knowing the custom, bid him go back, and kick those that refused him. Whereupon the Cafer returning, and finding the fame resistance as before, began to give ill language to the Camel-drivers, so that one of them happened to strike him. Upon that the Cafer drawing his Sword, ran him into the Belly, so that he fell down dead: Thereupon the whole Rabble fell upon him, bound him, and carried him back to Bander-Abassi for the Governor to put him to death. The Master of the Cafer, accompanied by several Merchants, went to the Governor and represented to him the insolence of those people, and how the business had happened. Upon which the Governor took the poor fellow out of their hands, and caused him to be kept safe; after that, he caused ten or a dozen of those Muleteers to be seized, and ordered them to be sound bastinadoed, for hindering a Merchant's Servant from fetching Water for his Master. He also put others in Prison; who had not been released so soon, but at the request of those Merchants whose Goods they carried, and who stood in need of their service. The Governor spun out the business, on purpose that the rest might be gone: but as soon as they were all departed except the two Brothers of the party slain, he told them, he could not do them Justice, because their Brother belonged to Schiras; so that all that he could do, was to send the Criminal thither. The Master of the Cafer being rich, and loving the Slave, made haste to Schiras, to tell his Story first to the Can. And I remember, two days journey on this side Schiras, we met in the Highway abundance of poor people, the kindred of the party slain, who were staying for the Cafer, to carry him before the Can, and to demand Justice. Two or three Leagues also from Schiras I met the Father and Mother, together with the Wife and Children of the deceased, who seeing me pass along, fell at my Feet and recounted to me their Grievances. I told them by my Kalmachi, that their best and surest way was to take a piece of Money of the Cafer's Master, and so to put up the business. This Proposal, that would have been accepted in Christendom, was rejected by those poor Mahometans; in so much that the Father tore his Beard, and the Women their Hair, crying out, That if it were the custom of the Franks to sell the Blood of their Kindred, it was not their custom so to do. When the rest of the kindred came with the Cafer to Schiras, the Can did all he could to persuade the Widow to take Money; but not being able to overrule her, he was forced to give the Cafer into their hands: and how they used him I cannot tell, being constrained at the same time, to pass from Schiras for Ispahan. CHAP. XI. Of the breeding, nature, and several sorts of Camels. THE Female Camel bears her Burden eleven Months; and her Milk is a sovereign Remedy against the Dropsy. You must drink a Pint of it every Day for three Weeks together: and I have seen several Cures wrought thereby at Balsara, Ormus; and in other places in the Persian Gulf, upon several English and Holland Mariners. So soon as a Camel comes into the World, they fold his Feet under his Belly, and make him lie upon them; after that they cover his Back with a Carpet that hangs to the Ground, laying Stones upon each side, so that he may not be able to rise; and thus they leave him for fifteen or twenty days. In the mean time they give him Milk to drink, but not very often; to the end he may be accustomed to drink little. This they do also to use them to lie down, when they go about to Lad them; at which time they will fold their Legs and lie down so obediently, that it is an admirable thing to consider. So soon as the Caravan comes to the place where it is to lie, all the Camels that belong to one Master will range themselves in a Circle, and lie down upon their fore Feet; so that it is but untying one Cord that holds the Bales, and they will slide off gently from each side of the Camel. When 'tis time to lad again, the same Camel comes and crouches down between the two Burdens, and when they are fastened, gently rises up with the Burden again; which is done without any trouble or noise. When the Camels are unladen, they let them go afield to feed upon the Heath and Bushes, and half an hour before Sunset they return of themselves, unless any one happen to wander, which they will call again with a certain Cry which is natural to them. When they return, they range themselves in a Circle, and the Muleteers give to every one little Balls of Barley-meal kneaded, as big as two Fists. The Camel though he be of a large bulk, eats very little, contented with what he meets with upon the Heaths; where he more especially looks for Thistles, of which he is a great lover. But it is more admirable to consider with what patience they endure drought: For one time that I crossed over the Deserts, where we were 65 days upon the Road, our Camels were nine days without Drink. But what is more wonderful is this, that when the Camel is in the heat of Generation, he neither eats nor drinks for 40 days together; and he is then so furious, that without great care you cannot avoid being bitten by him: And wherever he bites, he carries away a piece of the Flesh. At that time issues out of their Mouths a white Foam, besides that there appears on each side of their Chaps two Bladders large and swelled, like the Bladder of a Boar. In the Spring time all the Camel's Hair falls off in three days. The Skin remains bare, and then the Flies are very troublesome. There is no way but to Tar them all over: though it be a venturous thing to come near them at that time. A Camel must be dressed as well as a Horse; but the Camel-keeper never uses any Currycomb, but only beats him all over with a small Wand, as Carpets are wont to be dusted. If a Camel be hurt or galled under the Packsaddle, they never apply any thing to it, but only wash it well with Urine, without using any other Remedy. There are two sorts of Camels; the one which is proper for hot Countries, the other for cold Countries. The Camels in hot Countries, such as go from Ormus to Ispahan, cannot travel if the Ground be dirty and slippery; for their Bellies burst, while their hinder Quarters rive from their Bodies. These are small Camels, that carry not above five or six hundred Pound weight; but they are kept for little, and endure Thirst a long time. They do not tie them Head to tail, as they do the great ones, but let them go as they please themselves, like a Herd of Cows. The Camel-driver follows them singing, and sometimes playing upon his Pipe: the louder he sings and pipes, the faster the Camels go; nay they will stand still when he gives over his Music. When the Camel-drivers come to a Heathy Ground, they will give them leave to feed for half an hour, taking their Tobacco the while; and then singing them together again, they set forward. The Camels bred in the Deserts are handsome, but very tender, so that they must be gently used, and never be put upon long Journeys. However, they eat and drink less than others, and endure thirst more patiently. The Camels of cold Countries, such as those that travel from Tauris to Constanstantinople, are large Camels, that carry great Burdens, and will pull themselves out of the dirt: But in fat Grounds and slippery Ways the Drivers are fain to spread Carpets, sometimes an hundred one behind another; otherwise their hinder Quarters are also apt to rive from their Buttocks: but if the Road be slippery for too great a distance together, there is no way but to tarry till it be dried up and fair. These Camels usually carry a thousand Pound weight: but if the Merchant has any thank upon the Camel-driver, he will lay upon every Camel fifteen hundred weight, thereby making two of three Burdens. This the Merchants do, when they come near the Custom-Houses, especially that of Erzerom, which is the most severe. The Merchant does this for his own Profit: So that when the Customer mistrusting, demands how so many Camels come to travel empty, he makes answer, that they were Camels that carried Provision: But the Customer most commonly winks at that good Husbandry of the Merchant, for fear of losing his Custom, and obliging the Merchant to take another Road. There is as much knavery among the Camel-drivers, as among our Horse-Coursers. For I remember, that being once at Casbin, a Persian Merchant, thinking he had bought eight good Camels, was deceived in four which he thought the best: He verily believing they had been fat and in good case, but they were only blown up. For those Cheats have a trick to cut a Hole near the Tail, of which the Purchaser takes no notice, and which they know neatly how to sow up again: In this Hole they will blow till they have puffed up a lean Camel, that he shall appear as fat and plump as the soundest that ever fed: whereby they often deceive the quickest sights, especially when the Hair is all off, and that the bare Skin is all rubbed over with Tar. CHAP. XII. Of the Coins and Money of Persia. IN the first place, you must take notice that there are no Pieces of Gold coined in Persia, but only some few, to be thrown among the People when a new King ascends the Throne: which Pieces are neither currant among the Merchants, nor of a certain Price. When the Solemnity is over, they who get the Pieces, are not so curious to keep them, but carry them to the Changer, who gives them the value in currant Money. These Pieces of Gold may be worth five * A Frank is worth 2 s. Sterling. Franks, about the fineness of Almain-Ducats. Once I received ten thousand of them of one Merchant, at a prefixed rate; for their value is uncertain. The Money of the King of Persia. But they that can cunningly carry their Silver to Erivan, when the Season is to go to the Indies, make a great profit of the Real; for the Merchants that go to the Indies will give them thirteen and a half, or fourteen Shayez a piece, for as many as they have. But there are few Merchants that carry their Silver to Ispahan; in regard the Masters of the Mints upon the Frontiers will be sure to present them with a good piece of Silver Plate, rather than let them carry away their Bullion to Ispahan, to have the benefit of Coinage themselves. They that traffic into Guilan for Silks carry their Silver to Teflis, where the Master of the Mint gives them 2 per Cent. profit for their Silver. The reason is, because that which he gives them for it is a little sophisticated; but it passes currant all over Guilan. In the third place, you must observe, That upon the pieces of Silver, as well for the King's Duty as the Coinage of the Money, there is required 7½ per Cent. But upon the Copper Money, not above one half, or 1 per Cent. at most. Whence it comes to pass, that when a Workman has need of Copper, rather than lose time in going to buy it, he will melt down his Casbekés'. There are four several pieces of Silver Coin; Abasses, Mamoudi's, Shaet's, and Bisti's: but as for the Bisti's, there are very few at present. The Copper pieces of Coin are called Casbeké, of which there are single and double. The single Casbeké is worth five Deniers and a Halfpenny of our Money. The double Casbeké is valued at eleven Deniers. Four single Casbekés, or two double ones, make a Bisti. Ten single Casbekés, or five double ones, make one Shayet in value. Two Shayets make a Mamoudi. Two Mamoudi's make an Abassi. The Real or Crown of France is worth three Abasses and one Shayet; and counting a Real at sixty Sous, an Abassi is worth eighteen Sous, six Deniers. Though to say truth, three Abasses and one Shayet make three Halfpences more than the Crown. Number 1, and Number 2. Are two pieces, which upon one side bear the Names of the twelve Prophets of the Law of Mahomet, and in the middle this Inscription, La Illah allah Mahomet resoul Allah, Ali Vaeli Allah: on the backside, The Conqueror of the World, Abas II. gives us permission to coin this Money in the City of Cashan. Num. 1. Makes five Abasses; and counting our Crown at thirteen Shayets, it comes to four Livres, twelve Sous, six Deniers. Num. 2. Makes two Abasses and a half of our Money, or forty-six Sous and one Farthing. Num. 3. Is an Abassi, which comes to eighteen Sous, six Deniers. Num. 4. Is a Mamoudi, worth nine Sous and a Farthing. Num. 5. Is a Shayet, worth four Sous, seven Deniers, one Halfpenny. Num. 6. A Bisti, worth one Sous, ten Deniers. Num. 7. The Copper Coin, called Casbeké, worth five Deniers, one Halfpenny. These Coins, unless it be the Casbeké, bear no other Inscription, but only the Name of the King reigning when they were coined; the Name of the City where they were coined; with the Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet. Though all Payments are made in Abassi's, as well at Ormus and other parts of the Gulf belonging to the King of Persia, as in the Island of Bahrens, where is the great Fishery and Market for Pearls; yet there is no mention made but only of Larins. The Larin is described in the Money of Arabia. Eight Larins make an Or; four and twenty make a Toman. a Or is not the name of a Coin, but of a Sum in reckoning among Merchants. One Or is five Abasses. A Toman is another Sum in payment: For in all Persian Payments they make use of only Tomans and Orseolo; and though they usually say that a Toman makes fifteen Crowns, in truth it comes to forty-six Livres, one Penny and ⅓. As for pieces of Gold, the Merchant never carries any into Persia, but Alman-Ducats, Ducats of the Seventeen Provinces, or of Venice; and he is bound to carry them into the Mint so soon as he enters into the Kingdom; but if he can cunningly hid them, and sell them to particular persons, he gets more by it. When a Merchant goes out of the Kingdom, he is obliged to tell what pieces of Gold he carries with him; and the King's people take a Shayet at the rate of a Ducat, and sometimes they value the Ducat at more. But if he carries his Gold away privately and be discovered, all his Gold is confiscated. The Ducat usually is worth two Crowns, which in Persia justly comes to twenty-six Shayets; but there is no price fixed in that Country for Ducats. For when the season is to go for the Indies, or that the Caravan sets out for Mecca, as well the Merchants as the Pilgrims buy up all the Ducats they can find out, by reason of their lightness; and then they rise to twenty-seven, and twenty-eight Shayets, and sometimes more, a piece. The end of the Roads from Paris to Ispahan, through the Northern Provinces of Turkey. THE SECOND BOOK OF THE PERSIAN TRAVELS OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER: Containing the several ROADS From PARIS to ISPAHAN the Capital CITY of PERSIA; Through the Southern Provinces of TURKI, and through the DESERTS. CHAP. I. The second Voyage of the Author from Paris to Ispahan: and first; of his Embarking at Marseilles for Alexandretta. THE Road from Constantinople to Erivan, which with all those other Roads through the Northern Provinces of Turkey, the first time I travelled into Persia, I have amply described. It behoves me now to treat of the Southern Provinces, and of those through the Deserts, where there are several Emirs, or Arabian Princes, of which several are very potent: For there are some of them that can bring 30000 Horse into the Field, five of which I have had the honour to discourse, and to oblige them with small Presents; in recompense whereof they sent me Rice, Mutton, Dates, and Sherbet, as long as I stayed among them. I embarked at Marseilles in a Holland Vessel that carried five and forty Guns, from thence we set sail for Malta. At Malta we stayed twelve days to carine the Vessel, and to take in fresh Victuals. Among the rest we bought two thousand Quails, for there are a prodigious quantity in the Island: but in two or three days we found five or six hundred of them destroyed by the Vermin that pestered the Ship. From Malta we set sail for Larneca, a good Road in the Island of Cypras, to the West of Famagosta, which is not above a days journey from it by Land. As we were making into the Road, about two or three hours after midnight, we perceived a Vessel close upon us, and both the Ships Company began to cry out, for fear of falling foul one upon another, but the Vessel sheered clear without any harm on either side. In the morning we cast Anchor, and went ashore. It is a good half League from the Road where the Consuls and Merchants, both English, Hollanders, and French, live in a very pitiful Village. However there is a little Monastery of Capuchins, who officiate in the Chapel of the French Consul; and another of Religious Italians, that depend upon the Guardian of Jerusalem. We stayed but two days at Larneca; the Captain having nothing to do but to inform himself what business they might have for him at his return; it being usual to then to take in spun and unspun Cottons, together with course Wool for Mattresses. From Larneca till we came in view of the Coast of Syria, we had the Wind very favourable; but at length coming to prove a little contrary, instead of carrying us to Alexandretta, it cast us to the Northward, two or three Leagues higher, upon the Coast of Cilicia, toward a Town called Païasses. Half a League from that City lies a vast Rock, and between that Rock and the Land runs a very high Sea: And here it was that the people of the Country believe that the Whale cast up Ionas again; though the common Opinion reports it to have been done near Joppa in Palestine. All along that Coast from Alexandretta to Païasses, and farther, the way is so narrow and straitened by the Mountain, that in some parts the Camels and Horses must dip their Feet in the Sea: and yet you must pass that way of necessity, travelling from Syria to Constantinople. Between Alexandretta and Païasses it was, that the Chevalier Paul, in a Vessel that carried only three hundred Men, missed but little of surprising the Caravan that every Year carries the Tribute of Egypt to Constantinople, which since hath never been sent by Sea for fear of the Malteses. This Knight had landed his Men, and laid them in Ambuscade; but unfortunately his Design was discovered, so that the Caravan, that might have been easily surprised, stood upon their Guard. We were near the Coast, when we discovered a Skiff with fifteen or sixteen Turks, that were sent by him that commanded four Galleys of Rhodes to demand the Customary Present from our Captain. Those Galleys then anchored at Païasses, and had there discharged themselves of their Provisions of War for Bagdat, which the Grand Signior was going to besiege. And it is the custom, that when the Great Turk's Galleys are out at Sea, that whatever strange Vessel passes by them must send them a Present, either willingly or by force. When the Bassa of the Sea, who is the Admiral of the Turks, is in Person at Sea, the Vessel which he meets is not excused for 2000 Crowns: so that when he sets out from Constantinople to cruise, the Vessels of the Franks do all they can to avoid him. There are some that will seek to escape in sight of the Galleys, but it has cost them dear. And it happened, that one day the Wind slackening, they boarded a Vessel of Marseilles, the Captain and Notary whereof were both seized, and drubbed till their Bodies were almost bruised to a Jelly, and they had like to have died upon it, without being the better in their Purses; for the rudeness of the Chastisement did not excuse them from paying the Money which was demanded. Whether our Captain knew any thing of this Example, or whether it were out of his natural heat of Valour, he laughed at the Skiff-men, bidding them be gone, and telling them he had no Presents for them but Cannon-Bullets. Thereupon the Men returned to their Galleys, who soon delivered us from the true fear we were in, that the gallantry of the Captain had drawn us into an inconvenience. For while we kept the Sea close by the Coast, to observe the Countenances of the Turks, they weighed Anchor, and turned their Prows toward Rhodes. However, before they left us they sent us a Broadside, and our Captain, whatever we could say, sent them another, which rendered us more guilty. For the Turks pretend that when their Navy is at Sea, or only one Squadron, and that a strange Vessel is in fight, she is bound to come as near as the Wind will permit her without being haled, for which they will otherwise make the Commander pay very severely. The Consuls and Merchants of Aleppo understanding what had passed, very much blamed the Captain, fearing a worse consequence of the business: But by good fortune, the miscarriage was stifled and never went farther. The same day the Wind veering to the West-North-West, we sailed into the Road of Alexandretta, where we came to an Anchor, about a quarter of a League from the Land. Upon the advice which they have out of Christendom, so soon as they of Alexandretta discover a Vessel, and know what Colours she carries, the Vice-Consul of the Nation to which the Vessel belongs, fails not to advertise the Consul of Aleppo, by a Note which is carried in four or five hours; though it be more than two or three days journey on Horseback. For they tie a Note under the Wing of a Pigeon, who is taught what to do, and she flies directly to the place whence she was brought. For more surety, they usually send two, that if the one should miscarry i'the dark, which has many times happened, the other may supply the defect. Alexandretta is nothing else but a confused heap of paltry Houses, inhabited by the Greeks, who keep little Fuddling-schools, for the Mariners and others, the meaner sort of the people: for the Merchants lie at the Vice-Consuls of the Nation. There were but two then, the English Vice-Consul and the French; who had each of them a very convenient dwelling. However they must be Men who love Money at a strange rate, that accept of those Employments. For the Air, like that of Ormus, is generally so bad, especially in the Summer, in so much that they who do not die, cannot avoid very dangerous Distempers. If there be any so strong that they can hold out for three or four Years, and can accustom themselves to bad Air, they do well to stay there; for for them to betake themselves to a good Air, is to hazard their Lives. Mr. Philip's the English Consul has been the only Person that ever lived two and twenty Years at Alexandretta: but you must know he was a brisk merry Man, and of an excellent temper of Body; and yet for all that he had been forced to be cauterised. That which renders the Air so bad, is the great quantity of standing Pools and Plashes in the neighbouring Plains, extending to the East and South; but when the great Heats begin to approach, the most part of the Inhabitants retire to a Village called Belan, upon the next Mountain to the City, where there are very good Waters and excellent Fruits. They come also thither from Aleppo, when there is any appearance of a Pestilence; and yet there are few people in this Village who are not troubled with a sort of Fever, that makes their Eyes look yellow and hollow; which they never can remedy as long as they live. About half a League from Alexandretta, on the right band of the Highway, just against the Mersh on the other side, is a Tower whereon are to be seen the Arms of Godfrey of Bulloign. In all likelihood it was built for the defence of the Highway, which is enclosed between these two Marshes, whose Exhalations are very noxious. It is but three little days journey from Alexandretta to Aleppo, and some well mounted have rid it in two. The Franks are not permitted to go thither on Foot. For before that Prohibition, in regard the way was short, every Seaman that had a hundred Crowns, more or less, went on Foot to Aleppo, and got easily thither in three days, with little expense. Now because they had but little Money to spend, and were willing to dispatch their business, they would not stand to give Four or Five in the Hundred extraordinary for what Goods they bought, which was of dangerous consequence to the Merchants. For you must observe, that when the Ships arrive, the first Man that either out of rashness or ignorance, giveth two Sous more for a Commodity that is not worth a Crown, sets the Price, and causes all the whole Commodity to be sold at that rate. So that the Merchants that lay out ten or twelve thousand Crowns together, are very careful lest those Sailors should get before them, and enhance the Price of the Market. To remedy which inconvenience, the Merchants obtained an Order, That no Strangers should be permitted to go afoot from Alexandretta to Aleppo, but that they should be bound to hire Horses, and to give for every Horse six Plasters thither, and six back; which expense would soon eat out the Profit of a poor Mariner's small Sum. Usually you stay at Alexandretta three or four days, as well to rest yourself, as to make some little Provisions for your Journey to Aleppo. For though you meet with good Stages at Evening, yet the Janissaries will be very glad to eat by the way. Setting out from Alexandretta, we travelled over a Plain to the foot of a Mountain which is called Belan. There is a wide Gap in the midst of this Mountain, which giving liberty to the North-East Wind, when it blows hard, doth so enrage the Road of Alexandretta, which is otherwise very calm, that no Ship can ride there at that time. In so much that all Ships that happen to be there when the Wind rises, presently weigh, and get out to Sea, for fear of being cast away. Almost at the top of the Mountain you meet with an Inn; but though it be a very fair one, with Fountains round about it, yet Merchants never stop there, but go on a little farther to a Grecian that speaks good Italian, and whose entertainment is indifferent good, considering the Country. When you go away, you give him a Crown for your accommodation, which is the manner at other Stages, by a custom, which the Franks themselves having established, will never be left off. Descending down the Mountain you discover the City of Antioch, built upon a Hill. Formerly the Road lay through that City, but the Janissaries of the place exacting a Piastre from every person that travelled that way, that Road is now disused. Antioch once made more noise in the World, being fallen to ruin ever since the Channel, that ran from the City to the Sea, where Galleys might ride, has been stopped up by the Sands that have encroached upon the Mouth of the Haven. When you are at the bottom of the Hill toward the North, you discover a Castle built upon a Hill standing by itself, from whence you have a prospect over a good part of the Plain of Antioch. It is about fifteen Leagues long, and three broad, in that part where the Road lies. Somewhat more than half the way, you meet with a long Causey parted by several Bridges, by reason of certain Rivulets that cross it, without which the Road were hardly passable. The frequent Revolts of Bagdat and Balsara, which the Grand Signior has been forced so often to besiege, caused the Grand Visier in the Reign of Achmat to undertake this Causey, which together with the Bridge was finished in six Months, that was looked upon as a Miracle. This was done for the more easy passage of the Artillery, and other Provisions of War, that were brought out of Romania and Greece to the Siege of Bagdat, which could never have been done, but for this Causey. At the end of this Causey stands a Bridge, very long and strongly built, under which runs a River, which, with the other Rivulets that wind about the Plain, forms a Lake toward the South, that is called the Lake of Antioch. This Lake affords a great Revenue, by reason of the Eels that are caught there, which are taken two Months before Lent, and transported to Malta, Sicily, and other parts of Italy. This Plain is very full of Olive-Trees; which produces that great Trade of Soap, that is made at Aleppo, and transported into Mesopotamia, Chaldea, Persia, and the Desert; that Commodity being one of the most acceptable Presents that can be made to the Arabians. Salad-oil is also in great esteem among them: so that when you make them a Present of it, they will take off their Bonnets, and rub their Heads, their Faces, and their Beards with it, lifting up their Eyes to Heaven, and cry in their Language, God be thanked. Therein they have lost nothing of the ancient custom of the Eastern People, of which there is often mention made in Holy Scripture. About a League and a half beyond the Plain, you meet with a Rock, at the foot whereof is a little deep Lake, wherein they catch a world of Fish that are like our Barbels. I have killed them with my Pistol; and found them to be of an excellent taste; though they are not regarded at Aleppo. Two hours after, you ford a River which is called Afrora; though if it have happened to rain, you must stay till the Waters are fallen. Having past the River, upon the Banks whereof you stay to feed yourself and your Horses, you come to lie at a poor Village called Shaquemin, where there is an Inn. Here the Countrypeople bring Provisions of Food to the Travellers; and whether you eat or no, you must pay a Piastre, according to the custom which the Franks have established. After you have passed the Plain of Antioch as far as Shaquemin, the Horses in Summer are so terribly tormented with a sort of great Flies, that it were impossible to travel three or four hours together, were it not for going out of the Road, either to the right, or to the left, and riding through the Fields, which are full of those Burrs that our Clothworkers make use of: For in regard they grow as high as the Crupper of the Horse, they keep the Flies off from stinging and tiring the Horses. Leaving the Village of Shaquemin, the Road lies among Stones; and for half this tedious way, for two or three Leagues round about, you see nothing but the Ruins of ancient Monasteries. There are some of them which are built almost all of Freestone; and about half a days journey toward the North, quite out of the Road, stands the Monastery of St. Simeon the Stylite, with the remainder of his so famous Pillar, which is still to be seen. The Franks that travel to Aleppo, usually go out of their way to see that place. That which I find most entire, and worthy observation among the Ruins of those Monasteries, is the number of arched Cisterns of Freestone, which time has not defaced. From Shaquemin you come to dine at a Village called Angare, where every Traveller isentertained for his Piastre, as at the other Stages. Between the other Villages it is ten hours' journey; but between Angare and Aleppo, but three. We alighted at the French Consul's House, at what time the Customers came presently to search our Cloak-bags; after which we went to the Quaissery, which is a place where all Strangers are at the expense of half a Crown a day for themselves, and a quarter so much for every Servant, and are well entertained. CHAP. II. The Description of Aleppo, now the Capital City of Syria. A Leppo is one of the most famous Cities in all Turkey, as well for the bigness and beauty of it, as for the goodness of the Air, and plenty of all things; together with the great Trade which is driven there by all the Nations of the World. It lies in 71 Deg. 41 Min. of Longitude, and 36 Deg. 15 Min. of Latitude, in an excellent Soil. With all the search that I could make, I could never learn how it was anciently called. Some would have it to be Hierapolis, others Beroea: and the Christians of the Country agree with the latter. The Arabian Historians that record the taking of it, call it only Aleb, not mentioning any other name. Whence this Observation is to be made, That if the Arabians call it Aleb, others Alep; the reason is, because the Arabians never use the Letter P in their Language. This City was taken by the Arabians in the fifteenth Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet, which was about the Year of CHRIST 637, in the Reign of Heraclius Emperor of Constantinople. The City is built upon four Hills, and the Castle upon the highest that stands in the middle of Aleppo, being supported by Arches in some places, for fear the Earth should tumble and moulder away from it. The Castle is large, and may be about five or six hundred Paces in compass. The Walls and Towers, though built of Freestone, are of little defence. There is but one Gate to enter into it from the South, over a Draw-bridge, laid over certain Arches cross a Moat about six or seven Fathom deep. There is but one half of it full of Water, and that a standing Puddle to boot; the rest is a mere dry Ditch: so that it cannot be accounted a wholesome place. However there is Water brought into the Castle through a large Pipe from the Fountains in the City: and there is a strong Garrison kept in it. The City is above three Miles in circuit, and the best half of it is unmoated; that Moat there, is not above three Fathom deep. The Walls are very good, and all of Freestone; with several square Towers, distant one from the other about fourscore Paces; between which there are others also that are less. But these Walls are not all of them of an equal height, for in some places they are not above four Fathoms from the Ground. There are ten Gates to enter into the City, without either Moat or Drawbridge; under one of which there is a place that the Turks have in great veneration; where they keep Lamps continually burning, and report that Elisha the Prophet lived for some time. There is no River that runs through Aleppo; and but only a small one without the City, which the Arabians call Coïc. However, though indeed it be but properly a Rivulet, yet it is very useful to water the Gardens, where grows an abundance of Fruit, particularly Pistaches, much bigger, and better tasted than those that comes from the parts near Casbin. But though there be no River, yet there are store of Fountains and Receptacles of Water, which they bring from two places distant from the City. The Edifices, neither public nor private, are very handsome, but only withinside; the Walls are of Marble of several colours, and the Ceiling of Foliage Fretwork, with Inscriptions in Golden Letters. Without and within the City there are six and twenty Mosques, six or seven whereof are very magnificent, with stately Duomo's, three being covered with Lead. The chiefest and largest of all, was a Christian Church which they called Alhha, or Listened unto: which is thought to have been built by St. Helen. In one part of the Suburbs also stands another Mosque, which was formerly a Christian Church. In that there is one thing worthy observation. In the Wall upon the right side of the Gate, there is a Stone to be seen two or three Foot square, wherein there is the figure of a handsome Chalice, and a Sacrifice over the hollow of it, with a Crescent that covers the Sacrifice, the two Horns whereof descend just upon the brims of the mouth of the Chalice. One would think at first that those Figures were in Mosaic-work: but it is all Natural, as I have found with several other Franks, having scraped the Stone with an Iron Instrument, when the Turks were out of the way. Several Consuls would have bought it, and there has been offered for it 2000 Crowns; but the Bassa's of Aleppo would never suffer it to be sold. Half a League from the City lies a pleasant Hill, where the Franks are wont to take the Air. On the side of that Hill is to be seen a Cave or Grotto, where the Turks report that Haly lived for some few days; and for that there is an ill-shaped figure of a Hand imprinted in the Rock, they farther believe it to be the Hand of Haly. There are three Colleges in Aleppo, but very few Scholars, though there be Men of Learning that belong to them, who have Salaries to teach Grammar, and their odd kind of Philosophy, with the Grounds of their Religion, which are the Principal Sciences to which the Turks apply themselves. The Streets of the City are all paved, except the Bazar's, where the Merchants and Handicraft-Tradesmen keep their Shops. The chiefest Artists, and the most numerous, are Silk and Chamlet-Weavers. In the City and Suburbs there are about forty Inns; and fifty public Baths, as well for Women as for Men, keeping their turns. 'Tis the chiefest Pastime the Women have to go to the Baths; and they will spare all the Week long to carry a Collation, when they go at the Weeks end to make merry among themselves, in those places of privacy. The Suburbs of the City are large and well peopled, for almost all the Christians have their Houses and Churches there. Of which Christians there are four sorts in Aleppo, I mean of Eastern Christians, that is to say, Greeks, Armenians, Jacobites or Syrians, and Maronites. The Greeks have an Archbishop there, and are about fifteen or sixteen thousand in number; their Church is dedicated to St. George: The Armenians have a Bishop, whom they call Vertabet; and are about twelve thousand in number; their Church is dedicated to the Virgin. The Jacobites being about ten thousand, have a Bishop also; and their Church is likewise dedicated to the Virgin, as is that of the Armenians. The Maronites depend upon the Pope, not being above twelve hundred; their Church being consecrated to St. Elias. The Roman Catholics have three Churches, served by the Capuchins, Carmelites, and Jesuits. They reckon that in the Suburbs and City of Aleppo there are about 250000 Souls. There is a vast Trade at Aleppo for Silks and Chamlets; but chief for Gall-Nuts, and Valanede, which is a sort of Acorn-shell without which the Curriers cannot dress their Leather. They have also a great Trade for Soap, and for several other Commodities; the Merchants repairing thither from all parts of the World. For not to speak of the Turks, Arabians, Persians, Indians, there are several English, Italians, French, and Hollanders, every Nation having their Consul to carry on their Interests, and maintain their Privileges. Nor does this place happen to be so great a Mart, through the convenience of the two Rivers of Tigris and Euphrates, as some have written; by which they say such vast quantities of Commodities are transported and imported out and into the City. For had that been, I should never have crossed the Desert, coming from Bagdat to Aleppo; nor at another time, going from Aleppo to Balsara. And as for Euphrates, certain it is, that the great number of Mills built upon it, to bring the Water to the neighbouring Grounds, have not only rendered it unnavigable, but made it very dangerous. I must confess, that in the year 1638 I saw a great part of the Grand Signor's Army, and several Boats full of Warlike Provisions fall down the Stream, when he went to besiege it: but then they were forced to take away all the Mills that are upon the River; which was not done without a vast trouble and expense. As for Tigris, it is not navigable till beyond Babylon down to Balsara; where you may take Water, and be at Balsara in nine days. But the Voyage is very inconvenient, for at every Town which the Arabs have upon the River, you must be haled, and be forced to leave some Money behind you. Sometimes indeed the Merchants of Moussul and Bagdat, and others that come out of Chaldea to Trade at Balsara, carry their Goods by Water from Bagdat; but in regard the Boats are only to be towed by Men, it takes them up a Voyage of seventy days. By this you may judge of the time and expense of carrying Goods by Water up the River Euphrates to by'r, where they are to be unladen for Aleppo. In short, if the convenience of Morat-sou (for so the Turks call Euphrates) were to be had, and that Goods might be transported by that River, the Merchants would never take that way: for the Arabian Princes, with their People and their cattle, lying all the Summer long upon the Banks of the River, for the sake of the Water and the Grass, would make the Merchants pay what Toll they pleased themselves. I saw an Example of this, coming one time from Babylon to Aleppo. In all which Road we met but with one of those Arabian Princes, who lay at Anna: yet he made us pay for every Camel's Load forty Piastres. And which was worse, he detained us above five Weeks, to the end his Subjects might get more of our Money by selling us their Provisions. The last time I passed the Desert, I met another of these Arabian Princes together with his Brother, both young Men: He would not let us go a step farther, unless we would exchange two hundred Piastres in specie for Larins, the Money of the Country; and he forced us to take them, whatever we could urge to make it appear how much we should lose by them. And indeed we said as much as we could, for the dispute lasted two and twenty days to no purpose; might overcoming right. By this you may guests what the other Arabians would do, who are not a jot more civil; and whether the Merchants would get by taking the Road of Euphrates. The City is governed by a Bassa, who commands all the Country from Alexandretta to Euphrates. His Guard usually consists of three hundred Men, and some years ago he was made a Vizier. There is also an Aga or Captain of the Cavalry, as well within the City as without, who commands four hundred Men. There is another Aga who has under him seven hundred Janissaries, who has the charge of the Gates of the City; to whom the Keys are carried every Evening, neither has he any dependence upon the Bassa. The Castle is also under another Commander, sent immediately from Constantinople, who has under him two hundred Musketeers, and likewise the charge of the Cannon; of which there are about thirty Pieces; eight great Guns, the rest of a small size. There is also another Aga or Captain of the City, who commands three hundred Harquebusses; beside a Sou-Bashi, who is a kind of Provost of the Merchants, or Captain of the Watch, going the round every Night with his Officers through the City and Suburbs. He also puts in Execution the Sentences of the Bassa, upon Criminal Offenders. In Civils there is a Cadi, who sits sole Judge, without any Assistants, of all Causes as well Civil as Criminal; and when he has condemned any Man to Death, he sends him to the Bassa, together with his Accusation, with whom the Bassa does as he pleases. This Cady makes and dissolves all Contracts of Marriage; all Acts of Sale and Purchase pass in his presence. He also creates the sworn Masters of every Trade, who make their inspection that there may be no deceit in the Work. The Grand Signor's Duties are received by a Tefterdar, or Treasurer-General, who has under him several Receivers in divers places. In matters of Religion, the Mufti is the Chief, and the Interpreter of the Law, as well in relation to the Ceremonies, as in all Ecclesiastical differences. Among these Interpreters of the Law there is a Chieke or Doctor, appointed to instruct those that are newly converted to Mahumetanism, and to teach them the Maxims and Customs of their Religion. Three days after I arrived at Aleppo, Sultan Amurat made his Entry, going to his Army, which was upon its march to the Siege of Babylon. Now you must take notice, that not far from Aleppo, toward the East, there stands a House inhabited by the Dervies, which are a Religious Order among the Turks; though it formerly belonged to the Monks of St. Basil, and was a fair Covent. It is still in good repair, the Walls of the Chambers, Halls, and Galleries being all of Marble. All the Dervies of this House went half a League from the City, as far as Mount Ozelet, to meet the Grand Signior; and the Superior, at the Head of the rest, having made a Speech to his Highness, two Dervies came and made their obeisance in particular. Which being performed, from that place to the Castle of Aleppo, for half an hours march together; they went just before the Grand Signor's Horse, turning round continually with all their might, till they soam again at the Mouth, and dazzled the Eyes of those that beheld them. There are some of these Dervies that will turn in that manner for two hours together, and glory in that which we account folly. While the Grand Signior stayed at Aleppo, the Bassa of Cayro came thither with a thousand Janissaries: And indeed, there never was a sight of Men more active, or better ordered. Every one of them had Scarlet Breeches that reached down to their Ankles, with a Turkey-robe of English Cloth, and, a Waistcoat of Calicut painted with several Colours. The most part had Buttons of Gold and Silk; and as well their Girdles as their Scimitars were adorned with Silver. The Bassa marched at the Head of this Magnificent Regiment in a modest Garb; but the Harness of his Horse was as rich as his Habit seemed to be careless, having spared for no Cost to appear before the Grand Signior in a stately Equipage. There is a necessity for a Man to stay some time at Aleppo, as well to dispose of his Affairs, and in expectation till the Caravan be ready, unless he will venture himself alone without a Guide, which I have done more than once. And thus much for Aleppo, next to Constantinople and Cayro, the most considerable City in all the Turkish Empire. CHAP. III. Of several Roads in general from Aleppo to Ispahan, and particularly of the Road through the great Desert. THere are five principal Roads from Aleppo to Ispahan, which being added to those other Roads which I have described, through Anatolia, make seven Roads into Persia, parting from Constantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo. The first of the five Roads, setting out from Aleppo, is upon the left hand, toward the Summer-East, through Diarbek and Tauris. The second directly East, by Mesopotamia, through Moussul and Amadan. The third upon the right hand, toward the Winter-East, through Bagdat and Kengavar. The fourth somewhat more to the South, crossing a little Desert, through Anna, Bagdat, and Balsara. The fifth through the great Desert, which is an extraordinary Road, never travelled but once a year, when the Merchants of Turkey and Egypt go to buy Camels. Of these Roads I intent to treat distinctly, and in several Chapters. And first of the Road through the great Desert. The Caravans that go to Balsara this way never set out till the Rains are fallen, that they may not want Water in the Desert: and the Rain seldom holds up till December. This Caravan, with which I travelled, set out upon Christmas-day, consisting of about six hundred Camels, and four hundred Men, Masters and Servants together: the Caravan-Bashi being only on Horseback, and riding before, to find Water, and convenient places to lodge in. I must confess I had the convenience myself to ride my own Horse, which I kept all the while I was at Aleppo. A liberty permitted the Franks only at Constantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo: for at Damas', Seyde, or Cayro, none but the Consuls are suffered to keep Horses: others can only keep or hire Asses, which stand ready in the public Streets at all times. The next day we dislodged by daybreak, and by noon we came to a place where there were five Wells, about five hundred Paces distant one from the other. The Water was excellent, and eaused us to replenish our Borache's: and about four a Clock in the Afternoon, we lay at a place where there was no Water. The next day near noon we met with two Wells, but the Water was not good, and only the Camels drank of it; there we also lodged that night. Having now travelled two days in the Desert, I will describe it in a few words. You begin to enter upon it two or three Leagues from Aleppo, where by degrees you meet with nothing but Tents instead of Houses. It stretches out to the Winter-East, all along the Euphrates to Balsara, and the Shoar of the Gulf of Persia; and upon the South to the Chain of Mountains that divides it from Arabia Petraea and Arabia the Happy. These Deserts are almost quite through nothing but Plains of Sand, which in some places lie loser than in others; and are hardly passable till the Rains are but newly fallen, and have knit the Sands together. 'Tis a rare thing to meet with a Hill or a Valley in these Deserts; if you do, there is as surely Water, and as many Bushes as will serve to boil a little Rice. For throughout the whole Desert there is no Wood to be found; and all the Bavins and Charcoal that you can load upon Camels at Aleppo, will not last above eight or ten days. Therefore you must take notice, that of six hundred Camels that pass through the Desert, there are searce fifty laden with Merchandize, which is generally course Cloth, some little Iron Ware, but chief black and blue Calicuts, which the Arabians make use of without ever whitening them. All the other Camels are only laden with Provision, and all little enough; so many People being to travel for so many days through so long a Tract of Ground where there is nothing in the World to sustain Life and Soul together. For the first fifteen days travel we met with Water but once in two days, and sometimes not above once in three days. The twentieth day after we set out from Aleppo, the Caravan lay at a place where there were two Wells, and the Water very good. Every one was glad of the convenience of washing his Linen, and the Caravan-Bashi made account to have stayed there two or three days. But the News that we received, caused us to alter our Resolutions. For we had no seener given order to dress our Suppers, when we saw a Courier with three Arabs, all mounted upon Dromedaries, who were sent to carry the news of the Taking of Babylon to Aleppo and other Cities of the Empire. They stopped at the Wells to let their Beasts drink; and immediately the Caravan-Bashi, and the principal persons of the Caravan made them a small Present of dried Fruits and Granates. Who thereupon were so kind as to tell us, that the Camels which carried the Baggage belonging to the Grand Signior and his Train being tired, his Officers would be sure to seize upon ours, if they should chance to meet with us: they advised us moreover not to come near Anna, lest the Emir should stop us. Upon this news, we departed three hours after midnight; and keeping directly to the South, we put ourselves into the midst of the Desert. Eight days after we came to lie at a place where were three Wells, and three or four Houses. We stayed there two days to take fresh Water, and we were just setting forward again, when thirty Horsemen well mounted came from one of the Emirs, to tell the Caravan-Bashi that he must stop his Caravan. We stayed impatiently for him three days; and at length he came, and was presented by the Caravan-Bashi with a piece of Satin, half a piece of Scarlet Cloth; and two large Copper Cauldrons. Now although those Cauldrons could not but be very acceptable to an Arabian Prince, who most certainly had none such in his Kitchen, yet he did not seem contented with his Present, and demanded above four hundred Crowns. We contested seven or eight days to have kept our Money in our Pockets, but in vain; so that we were forced to rate one another, and to raise him his Sum; which being paid, he treated the chief of the Caravan with Pilaw, Honey, and Dates, and when he went away, gave them five or six Sheep ready boiled. Three days after we had left this Arabian Prince, we met with two Wells near certain old decayed Brick Buildings. The Water of those Wells was so hitter, that the Camels would not drink it: however we filled our Borache's, thinking it would have left its bitterness by being boiled: but we found the contrary. From those two Wells that were good for nothing, we travelled six days before we met with any Water, which with the three days before, made nine; and all that time the Camels never drank, as I have hinted already. At the end of nine days we crossed a Hilly Country for three Leagues together, at the feet of three of which Hills there were three standing Pools. The Camels, that smelled the Water half a League off, put themselves upon their great trot, which is their manner of running, and no sooner came to the Pools but they crowded in all together, which caused the Water to be thick and muddy. Thereupon the Caravan-Bashi resolved to stay there two or three days together, till the Water was settled. Here we had also the opportunity to boil us some Rice, there being good store of Bushes that grew about the Lake. But above all, the People were overjoyed that they had an opportunity to make Bread, which they do after the following manner. First they dig a round Hole in the Ground, half a Foot deep, and two or three in diameter, which they crowd full of Bushes, and then set them on fire, covering them with Bricks or Stones till they are red-hot. In the mean while they prepare their Dough upon a Sofra, or round piece of Copper, which serves at other times for Table and Tablecloth to eat upon. Then they take away the Ashes and Bricks, and making the Hole very clean, put in their Dough, and covering it again with the hot Bricks or Stones, leave it so till the morning. The Bread thus baked is very well tasted, not being above two Fingers thick, and as big as an ordinary Cake. While we stayed at the three Ponds, I spent my time in kill Hares and Partridge, of which there was very great plenty in those parts. The night before we departed we filled our Borachoes again, the Water being very good and clear; though it be nothing but Rain-water preserved in those Cavities, which in the Summer are dry again. But now the Caravan-Bashi, seeing we had travelled already nine days without finding any Water, resolved to leave the South, and to keep to the West; and if he met not with Water in two or three days, to take to the North-East, or Winter-East, in quest of the River Euphrates. Two days after we had changed our Road, we passed between two little Hills, where we met with a Pond, near to which were two Arabians, each with his Wife and Children, tending a Herd of Goats and a Flock of Sheep. They told us they were going toward Moussui, and put us in the best Road to find Water; and indeed, from that place to Balsara, we never travelled three days together, but we met with enough. Five days after we had left those two Arabians, we discovered a large Palace all of Brick; which showed some probability, that the Country had been formerly sowed, and that the Bricks had been burnt with the Straw. To the Palace belonged three large Courts; in every one of which were fair Buildings, with two Stories of Arches, one-upon another. Though this large Pile was standing, yet no body lived in it, nor could the Arabians, very ignorant in Antiquity, tell us by whom it was built. Before the Gate of the Palace there is a Lake with a Channel, the bottom whereof is bricked, as also the Arch, which is even with the Ground. This the Arabians believe to have been a conveyance of Water from Euphrates: which surely could never be, in regard that Euphrates is above twenty Leagues distant. From that Palace we kept to the North-East, and after we had travelled five days, we arrived at a pitiful Town, formerly called Cufa, now Meched-Ali, where Ali, Mahomet's Son-in-law lies buried in a plain Mosque. Generally there stand four Tapers lighted about the Tomb, and certain Lamps burning overhead, which are fastened to the Roof. Though the Persians have Ali in so much veneration, yet they rarely go in Pilgrimage to his Tomb. The reason is, because that there being no way to come at it, but through Bagdat, which is under the Dominion of the Great Turk, there is a demand of eight Piasters from every Pilgrim; which is an Imposition that no way pleases the King of Persia. Sha-Abas scorning that his Subjects should be tributary to the Turks, endeavoured to divert them from this Pilgrimage by another sort of Devotion, which he set up at Meshéed, upon the Road from Tauris to Candahar. Nor have the Kings his Successors been less unwilling to give their Subjects leave to visit their Prophet Ali, taking it for an Affront to pay Tribute to the Grand Signior. Which is the reason that this Mosque is no more enriched by the Persians. For besides the Lamps and Tapers that burn continually, there are only two Moullahs that read the Alcoran according to custom. In this Town there are only three or four bad Wells of brackish Water, and a dry Channel, which they say Sha-Abas made to bring the Water of Euphrates to the Town for the benefit of the Pilgrims. As for Food, we met with nothing but Dates, Grapes, and Almonds, which the people sold at a dear rate. When any Pilgrims come thither, which is very rare, and that they want Victuals, the Sheck causes a distribution to be made among them of Rice boiled with Water and Salt, and a little Butter poured a top. For there is no Pasturage for cattle, and by consequence there can be no store of Food. Two days journey from Ali's Town, by nine of the Clock in the morning we met two young Arabian Lords that took upon them the name of Sultan's. They were two Brothers, one of the age of seventeen years, the other of thirteen; and as we pitched our Tents, they pitched theirs close by us; which were of a very fine Scarlet Cloth; and among the rest there was one covered with Purple Velvet, laced with a rich Galoon-lace. So soon as they were settled in their Tents, the Caravan-Bashi and I went to wait upon them; who understanding that there were Franks in the Caravan, asked me whether I had any Curiosities to sell them; but when I made them answer that I had nothing worthy their purchase, they would not believe me, and therefore commanded the Caravan-Bashi to fetch my Trunks, that they might be opened in their presence. While they were opening, one of the chief persons about those Princes would not suffer any of the rest of the Arabs to come near, for though most of the Arabs are great Thiefs, yet some of them are persons of great integrity. Now I had in my company a young Painter, who had in his Chest several engraved Cuts, part Landscapes, part Figures, together with the Pictures of certain Courtesans drawn to the Wast. The young Lords made choice only of twenty of those Courtesans, which I would have presented to them; but they gave me to understand, that they knew how to pay for what they had, and especially the youngest, who seemed to be very generous; him I pleased in an extraordinary manner; for his Teeth being very foul, I ordered a Chirurgeon that I carried along with me at the same time to clean them, which he did to the great satisfaction of the young Prince. Thereupon they sent me and my Train, of their best Victuals they had. The Caravan-Bashi presented them with half a piece of Scarlet, and two pieces of Tissue of Gold and Silver. When we were ready to go, the young Sultan gave me twelve Ducats for my Pictures, and sent the Caravan-Bashi and myself two Frails of the best Dates that we had met with since we lest Aleppo. About midnight the Princes dislodged, and took to the North, toward Euphrates. We set forward after them, driving Northward toward the same River. After we had travelled four days we met one of the most potent Emirs of Arabia, who coming from the South, and going Northward, was to cross the Road that we kept. He was about fifty years of age, well made, and of a comely presence. He had not then above two thousand Horse, of thirty thousand which we heard had passed by some days before. Behind the two thousand Horse were fifty Camels that carried his Women; their Cajavas being covered with Scarlet-cloth fringed with Silk. In the midst of these Camels there were six encompassed with Eunuches, the Fringes of the Cajavas being Silk, Silver, and Gold. The Arabians do not seem to be jealous of their Wives, as in Turkey and other places; for they led their Camels by our Caravan, never requiring us to retire, as is the custom in other places. They lodged a quarter of a League off, where we thought to have pitched, for the conveniency of two or three Ponds, which they deprived us of. This Arabian Prince had a great number of lovely Horses richly harnessed: others he had that were neither saddled nor bridled, yet the Riders would turn them with a Wand which way they pleased, and upon a full gallop would stop 'em, by only holding them by the Hair. He had some Horses of an excessive price; and this is to be observed, that they are never shod. The Caravan-Bashi believing he should not escape scot-free from so powerful a Prince, among the Merchants of the Caravan found out a rich Saddle, with Bridle and Stirrups, which were all set out and garnished with massy Silver, with an embroidered Quiver full of Arrows, together with a Buckler, the whole coming to about eleven or twelve hundred Livers; and adding to these of his own a piece of Scarlet, four pieces of Tissue of Gold and Silk, and six pieces of Tissue of Silver and Silk, made a Present of all together to the Emir. But he refused all, demanding only two hundred thousand Piastres for Larins: which exchange being no way for the Merchant's profit, raised a great dispute. But at length, considering that it was in his power to stop and starve us there, we only endeavoured a Composition; which was obtained. Thereupon he took the Present, which perhaps he would not else have done. For two days that we stayed to weigh the Money, he sent Provisions to the chief of the Caravan; and at our departure, he sent us twelve Frails of Dates, and four young Camels that might be worth about forty Crowns apiece. Two days after we met a Schek, who among the Arabians is one of the chief of the Law. He was going to Mecca, cross some part of Arabia the Happy, with a Train of ten or twelve Camels. He stayed all night with us, and one of his Servants having been dangerously wounded about two days before with a Musket-bullet, my Chirurgeon dressed him, and gave him Salve and Tents, for which he was extremely thankful. He sent me to Supper a great Dish of Pilaw, and the next day a whole Sheep. The Caravan-Bashi likewise presented him with two els of Scarlet. The next we met with nothing worth observation, but the day following we met another Emir, of about Five and Twenty years of age, who came from Euphrates, and was travelling into the Happy Arabia. He had with him about five hundred Horse, and three hundred Camels that carried his women. He presently sent to know what Caravan it was, and understanding that it consisted of many Franks, among whom there was a Chirurgeon: He sent again to desire the Caravan Bashi to follow with the Caravan, to the place where he intended to pitch his Tents, which was not far out of the way. We did not think to have gone so far that day, but he led us to the best water in all the Desert. The Prince's Tent being set up, he sent for my Chirurgeon, with whom I went along to know what his pleasure was. He had upon his left Arm a Tetter, with a most filthy Scab as broad as a Crown piece; and this went and came at certain times in the year. He presently asked the Chirurgeon whether he could cure him? to whom the Chirurgeon made answer, that the cure was not impossible, provided he knew where to get such remedies as were convenient: For had he said, he could have absolutely cured him, the Emir would have carried him away with him, without any farther Ceremony. Thereupon he would have given the Chirurgeon five hundred Crowns to have bought Medicines. But I made answer, that the cure would not cost so much, and that if the Chirurgeon could meet with proper Drugs, I would lay out the Money myself. The Emir content with that answer, sent one of his chief People to Balsara, to come back with the Chirurgeon, when he had bought his Medicines. He himself stayed three days in expectation of him; but after we had pretended to seek for what we wanted, up and down the Town (for we enquired for such things as we knew were not to be had) we sent him back word that we could not find what we looked for, and desired his excuse, in regard the attendance of the Chirurgeon would be of no use, where he had not proper remedies; which was the only way we could think of, to get cleverly rid of him. The next days Journey after we had left the Arabian Prince, was through a Country altogether uninhabited; but the day following, which was the sixty-fifth and last day of our being in the Desert, we met after some time, with the ruins of some houses on both sides the way; which made us conjecture, that some great City had stood formerly in that place. At length we came to Balsara, which I shall describe in another place. While I stayed at Balsara, which was about three weeks, an Ambassador from the Great Mogul arrived there, who from Constantinople went to Bagdat to congratulate the Grand Signior for the Conquest of that City which he had taken in so short a time. The Emperor presented him with three stately Horses, and a little Watch, the Case whereof was set with Diamonds and Rubies. But the Ambassador not knowing what belonged to that little Engine, winding it up the wrong way, broke the string. Coming to Balsara he sent to the Carmelites to desire them to mend his Watch; for he feared the loss of his head, should he return to his Master and not show him the Watch entire. It what at their House that I then lay; and therefore not knowing what to do with it, they desired me to show my skill: Thereupon I put on a new string. But the Ambassador when he understood to whom he was beholding, though it were but a trifle, proffered me all the service and kindness imaginable. Thereupon the Carmelites and Augustin Friars desired me to request of the Ambassador in their behalf, that he would obtain the Great Turk's protection for them, in case he took Balsara, that their Houses and Churches might be preserved; which I did, and obtained by his means full protection from the Grand Visier. But they had no need of it, for the Turks did not make any attempt upon Balsara, hearing that the Persians were advancing; besides that the rainy season was at hand, which will not permit an Army to keep the Field: So that had Bagdat held out eight days longer; the Grand Signior would have been constrained to have raised the Siege. Having spoken of the Arabian Horses; I must needs say, that there are some that are valued at a very high rate. The Mogul's Ambassador gave for some three, four, and six thousand Crowns, and for another he offered eight thousand Crowns, but the Horse would not be sold under ten, and so he left it. When he was got home into the Indies, and had presented the Mogul those Horses which he had carried along with him, being very lovely Creatures; he told his Master how he had offered eight thousand Crowns for a Horse more beautiful than any of them; but because the Owner would not let him go under ten, he left him. The King incensed that his Ambassador had stood for so small a Sum, when it was for one of the greatest Monarches in the World, upbraided the poorness of his Spirit, and banished him for ever from his presence, into a Province far distant from the Court. Thereupon the King wrote to the English to buy him the Horse, who accordingly did so, and brought him to Surat, where the Governor repaid them their Money. But the Horse died at Brampour. Nor must I forget, that while I was at Balsara, twice there flew by such a prodigious number of Locusts, that a-far-off they appeared like a Cloud, and darkened the Air. They pass by Balsara four or five times in the year, the Wind carrying them into the Desert, where they alight, and most certainly die. Should they not be thus wind-driven, there could nothing live upon the Earth in some parts of Chaldea. They swarm all along the Persian Gulf, and when the Vessels come to Ormus at the time of the year, there are little Shops where people sell Locusts fried in Butter to those that love that sort of Diet. Once I had the curiosity to open the Belly of a Locust six Inches long, and found therein seventeen little ones that stirred; whence it is easy to guests how those Infects come to be so numerous, especially in hot Countries. There are several Barks that go from Ormus to furnish both sides of the Persian Gulf, where the people eat neither Bread nor Rice. I agreed with the Master of one of these Barks, and made my agreement that the Bark should not be above half laden; for generally they lad them too deep, and in foul weather they are forced to throw half the Freight overboard, to save the rest. From Balsara to the mouth of the River Euphrates, it is reckoned to be twenty Leagues of Freshwater. We stayed seven whole days for a Wind, which proving favourable, we came to Brander-ric, in forty-eight hours. This is the place where you must land, if you intent for Persia, unless you are bound for Ormus. Brander-ric consists only of five or six little Fishers Huts; which Huts are only Hurdles set one against another, and covered over, where they and their Families live. To the same place come Asses laden with Dates, which I was forced to hire for want of Horses. We were six days upon the Road from thence to Cazerom. This is a Mountainous Country, where there is Wood enough; but you must lodge in the Fields, for there are no Inns upon the Road. The way is pleasant in some places, along the Banks of several Rivulets, and through verdant Groves stored with great quantities of Turtles. We killed a good many; which we eat, part with Pilaw, instead of Hens; some we roasted; making Sticks to serve for Spits. Cazerom is a little City ill built, where there is but one Inn, and that none of the most inviting to Strangers neither. From Cazerom to Schiras it is five days journey. The Road lies over very craggy Mountains, which had been impassable, but for the Liberality of Ali-Couli-Kan, Governor of Schiras. He made Ways where there were none before, and joined Mountains together by Bridges, in Countries which otherwise had been inaccessible. In the midst of the Mountains is a wide gap or discontinuance, from whence a Plain extends itself of about twenty Leagues in circuit. It is inhabited by Jews only, who are Silk-Weavers. In these Mountains you meet with Tents, where the Chaldeans sojourn, that come for cool Air and Pasturage in the Summer. Coming to Schiras, I took Horse there for Ispahan, where I arrived in nine days. The Country over which you travel, between these two Cities, is part Plains, part Mountains; part wild, and part manured. Three days journey from Schiras you pass the Mountain of Mayen, a little City where there is nothing worthy observation. Two days journey from thence you enter upon the Plains of the Province of Cuscuzar, where the King of Persia keeps his Race-Horses. The next day I arrived at Yesdecas, where the best Bread in Persia is made. This is a little City upon a Rock, wherein there is a very fair Inn: at the foot whereof runs a little River that glides into the Valley, wherein grows that excellent Corn which is uttered in Bread from that City. In three days I went from Yesdecas to Ispahan. This was the first Road from Aleppo to Ispahan. CHAP. IU. Of the Road from Aleppo to Ispahan, through Mesopotamia and Assyria, which I travelled in my third Voyage to the Indies. I Departed from Paris in my third Voyage to the Indies upon the sixth of December 1643, and went to Ligorn, where I found the Dutch Fleet ready to set Sail for the Levant. The Vessel wherein I embarked seeming rather a Man-of-War than a Merchantman. We passed through the Channel of Messina, and lay there at an Anchor four days before the City. From thence passing by the Morea, we entered into the Archipelago, where the Fleet parted, according as every Ship was bound. Our Ship sailed directly for the Port of Alexandretta, but though the Wind were favourable, we were stopped for some time by a Pirate that met with us off the Eastern Point of Candy. We endeavoured to have got clear of him; but the Pirate gaining upon us, we made ready. Thereupon the Pirate gave us three Broadsides, that went over the Ship without doing us any harm: which we answered by as many from our Ship, the first whereof brought his Foremast by the Board; and the third Shot went through the Forecastle and killed him some Men, as far as we could discern. At that very instant one of our Mariners cried out from the Top-mast-head, A Sail from the South. Thereupon the Pirate left us, and made Sail after her: and we, glad of such an escape, pursued our Voyage to Alexandretta, where we happily arrived; from whence I took Horse for Aleppo, as I have already described. The sixth of March I departed from Aleppo in the company of two Capuchin Friars, Father Raphael and Father Yves, and a Venetian whose name was Dominico de Sanctis. From Aleppo to by'r, where you cross the Euphrates, it is four days journey for the Horse- Caravan. The Country is well wooded, and well manured. The seventh of March the great Rains that fell hindered us from getting to the usual Stage, so that we could not gain Telbechar, another Town, where there is no Inn: which constrained us to stop a League on this side, and to go to a Cave that was able to contain three hundred Horse. This is a Cave where the Bedovins or Feeders of cattle thereabouts oft retire, who live after the manner of the Arabs, either in Rocks or in poor Huts. The Cave has been hollowed from time to time, there being several Niches in it like little Chambers. Our Caravan-Bashi fearing some Ambuscade, road thither before to view the place, but finding it empty and free, we rested there that night, and the next night came to lie at Mezara, which is only a small Village without an Inn: Neither was there any thing remarkable upon that Road. Only that near the Cave, in the Mountain, there is very good Water: And formerly upon the Mountain stood a Castle, of which some ruins are still remaining. From the top of the Mountain there is a fair Prospect as far as you can see, over very fair Plains on every side, and in several places very good Land, watered by divers Channels which are brought from the River Euphrates. All the Rivulets also that you cross from Aleppo to by'r come from the same River. The fourth day after we parted from Aleppo, being the ninth of March, we came to the banks of Euphrates. by'r is on the other side of the River; and because that sometimes the Goods cannot be unladen all in a day; there is a fair and large Inn, to defend the Merchants from the Bedoüins, which would else disturb and rob them, were not they and their Goods in that manner secured. You cross the Euphrates in large Ferry Boats, and as soon as you are got over the other side of the River, the Customer and his Officers comes and tells the Bales, and writes down the names of the Merchants to whom they belong. The Caravan does not lie in the Town, which is built like an Amphitheatre upon the brow of a very craggy Mountain, but passes forward over a scurvy Road to an Inn upon the top of the Mountain. Near the Inn there are several Chambers cut out of the Rock, where they that cannot get room in the Inn are forced to lie. That Evening the Custom-Officer comes to receive his duties, being two Piastres upon every load of Goods, whether upon Horse or Mule, though the Mules carry more than the Horses; and half a Piastre for every Beast that carries Provisions. But for Saddle Horses or Mules there is nothing demanded. The by'r, or Berygeon, as the Natives call it, is a large City for an Eastern City, situated upon the brow of a Hill. Below upon the River stands a Castle that declares its Antiquity; it is half as long as the City, but narrow, and without any other Fortification, saving only a Tower that scours the River, in which there are eight or nine pitiful Culverins. In the highest part of the Town stands another Castle where the Governor resides, who is an Aga, whom some call a Bassa, having under him two hundred Janissaries, and four hundred spahis. The City is ill built, as are the most part of the Cities of Turkey: But there are an extraordinary plenty of all things, excellent Bread, good Wine, and great store of the best sort of Fish. The tenth day after we had travelled eleven hours in the first Lands of Mesopotamia, that lies between the two Rivers Euphrates and Tiger, which at present they call Diarbek, we came in the evening to Sharmely. This is a very good Town, with a fair Inn, and Baths round about it. About twice Musquet-Shot from thence, stands a Mountain alone by itself, like Montmartre near Paris: Round about it are Plains, and at the top of it stands a Fortress, with a Garrison of two hundred spahis, by reason that the Arabs sometimes cross Euphrates, and make incursions upon that side. In the year 1631, the Grand Vizier returning from Bagdat, where he had lost the greatest part of the Grand Signor's Army, not being able to take the City; fearing the loss of his head if he returned to Constantinople, and knowing himself to be in great esteem among the Soldiers, resolved to quarter himself upon this Mountain, and to erect a Fortress to secure himself from the tempest that threatened him. No doubt but'l if he could have brought about his design, he might have made himself Master of all Mesopotamia, and would have put the Grand Signior to a great deal of trouble. For if you intent for Aleppo, whither it be from Tauris, Mossul, or Bagdat, unless you travel through the Desert, you must pass through Sharmely, under the command of this Fortress, for Provision and Water's sake. The work was gone so far forward, that there was a good defence raised, and the Vizier had already enclosed all the Mountain together with the Inn, with a Wall almost twenty foot thick, and three fathom high, when he was strangled by those in whom he most confided, the Grand Signior having gained them either by threats or by rewards. The eleventh, after a Journey of ten hours we came to Ourfa, where the Caravan usually stays eight or ten days; for here it is that they live that hire the Horses and the Mules, who have always some business in this place. We lay at an Inn three or four hundred paces distant from the City toward the North. When the Inn is full, the rest retire into the Grottoes which are near at hand, and are very good quarters. Here the Tollgatherer presently comes and counts the Bales without opening them. They that carry any Sacks must pay for half a Load; if not, he opens the Sack to see if there be any Merchandise therein, for then the Merchant must pay the whole duty. Ourfa is the Capital City of Mesopotamia, built as they say, in the same place where Abraham lived, and where stood the ancient Edessa, where the people of the Country report, that King Abagarus generally kept his Court. There are still to be seen the ruins of a Castle; from whence they add, that the same King sent to CHRIST for his Picture, and offered him his Kingdom and his people to defend him against the Jews, whom he understood to be his Enemies. The Chronicles of the Armenians report, that Abagarus was their Countryman, and that in his Reign they began to be Christians, and to be Baptised by the hands of an Apostle, whom CHRIST sent to that Prince after his Resurrection. * Neither is this Castle yet so far ruined, but that there is still to be seen a spacious Hall, and three or four handsome Rooms with some relics of Mosaic work. I was curious to see what ever was remarkable in this City. And first they led me to a large Fountain which resembles a Fishpond, the Spring whereof is under the Foundations of the principal Mosque, which was built in the honour of Abraham. The Christians of the Country say, that it was in that place where he prayed, before he went about to Sacrifice his Son Isaac, and that two Springs of Water arose from the two places where he rested his knees, which now feed the large Fountain I have made mention of. It is paved with Freestone, and so full of fish, that if you throw them in a little Bread, they will follow you from place to place as you walk by the side of the Pond. There is no meddling with them; for the Turks have a great veneration for those Fish which they call Abraham's Fish. Besides that, the place about the Fountain where the water wid'ns itself to water all the City, is covered with very fair Carpets, for about twenty paces in breadth. This Fountain at length falls into a little River that runs by the Walls. As for the Grotto where the two Springs rise, there is no going into it before you have pulled off your Shoes, and it is a great favour for a Christian to see it; such a favour as cost me six Piastres. I also saw the Church, under the portal whereof, they say, St. Alexis lived seventeen years a private life. It stands in the middle of a Churchyard, in the highest part of the Town, in the possession of the Armenians. But their principal Church is about a quarter of an hours walking from the City, built by St. Ephren, who is there buried. The Monastery stands yet entire, enclosed with fair Walls. In the Church I saw a large Bible in Armenian Characters. The Sepulchre of St. Ephren is in a Cave at the foot of the Mountain, to which there also belongs a Chapel, where they keep three or four Lamps continually burning. There are other Grottoes up and down the Mountain, where are to be seen very ancient Sepulchers of the Christians. The City of Ourfa is seated in a good soil, very well manured, which extends itself out of sight toward the East. There are several pleasant Gardens near the walls, watered by little Channels brought thither by Art. The soil produces good Wine, so that a man may live as well at Ourfa, as in any part of Turkey. While I stayed there, I killed abundance of Fieldfares in those Gardens; and indeed there is great store of wild Fowl all the Country over. The Walls of the City are of Freestone, with Battlements and Towers; but within, the houses are small, ill built, and ruinous: And there are several void spaces in the City, which makes Ourfa to look rather like a Desert than a Metropolis. The City is Governed by a Bassa, who has under him a hundred and fifty Janissaries, and six hundred spahis, standing more in need of Cavalry than Infantry, by reason of the Incursions of the Arabians, especially in Harvest time. In short, Ourfa is the place were they dress such great quantities of Cordovan Skins, by reason of the waters particular to the Country, which give them that peculiar beauty. The Yellow Skins are dressed at Ourfa, the Blue at Tocat, and the red Rat Diarbequir. The twentieth of March, we set out of Ourfa, and after a Journey of six hours, we lay at a pitiful Village where the Inn was fallen all to decay. There is a Fountain of excellent water by it, which is all the convenience of the place, for there is no Provision to be had. The twenty-first we travelled nine hours, and came to lie near several Caverns which are very deep; at the entry whereof there are little Rooms, which are supposed to be the places where the People of the Country lived that fed their cattle thereabouts. There is also Rain-Water to be had in some of the Concavities of the Rock. Half this days journey you must pass over Rocks, where it is almost impossible, and very dangerous to keep your Horses back. The twentysecond, having travelled eleven hours, we lodged near a Cavern, having forded a River that runs at the foot of it. There are two great Grottoes on each side, where Travellers take up their Quarters, and whither the Natives of the Country bring Provisions both for Horse and Man. The Toll-gatherers, coming from a Fort about three Leagues distant from these Caverns, here exact two Piastres and a half for every Horse and Mules Load; and search your Sacks, to see if there be no Merchantable Goods therein. About half the way of this days journey you meet with a City quite deserted by the Inhabitants; and about an hours march after that, with Tombs of Stone, in the middle whereof stands a Cross, with Armenian Characters. The twenty-third we travelled eleven hours, and lay at Dadacardin. This appears to have been a great Town, but is all ruin'd: nor is there any thing remaining but a long Stone-Bridge very well built, under which runs a River that is very broad when it overflows. The People of the Country have no other Habitations than the Hollows of Rocks; yet they bring to the Traveller's Hens, Butter, Cheese, and other Provisions which they sell very cheap. The twenty-fourth we travelled nine hours, and lay at a place called Cara, built upon a Hill. The Caravan lay at the Inn; but the two Capuchins and I lay at a private Christian's House, who carried us to the Church, where was then the Vertabet or Bishop of Merdin. It was a pitiful poor Church, where they had nothing but two Planks supported with four Sticks instead of an Altar. They dare not leave any Furniture in it; but as soon as the Priest has said Service, he must have a care to take away every thing, as well the Planks as the Covering of the Altar, which was only a Painted Cloth: For the Turks that travel that way, if it be foul weather, will break open the Door, put their Horses there, burn the Altar, and take away whatever they find. In the Village where we lay, there was a Pond, the sides whereof were surrounded with fair Freestones, which were fetched from the Christian Churches, and the Tombs of the Christians thereabouts. Among the rest, there was one very large Stone, with an Epitaph upon it in large Latin Letters; whereby we knew it to be the Tombstone of a Norman Gentleman, who had been a Captain of Foot. The Bishop informed us, that it is recorded in the Armenian Stories, that the French were a long time in this Country, at what time the Christians were Masters of Syria. This Country is all a large Plain, about twenty Leagues in length; which might be well manured, and make the Inhabitants rich, did not the Tyranny of the Turks, and the Incursions of the Arabs reduce them to the utmost degree of Poverty. The twenty-fifth, after we had travelled eight hours, we lay at a Village called Cousasar, where there was not Inn. There were formerly three great Monasteries, a quarter of a League one from the other. The Turks have ruined two, all but the Steeples of the Churches that belonged to them. The third, which stands all entire, and is the fairest Pile of Building, serves for a Mosque. They have made Shops round about the Cloisters, in the middle of which is a fair Spring of Water. The twentyseventh we lay still at Cousasar, being the place where you must pay the Customs of Diarbequir, which is not above two days journey off, amounting to two Piastres and a fourth part, for every Load of Merchant's Goods. Merdin is not above two Leagues from Cousasar. This is a little City seated upon a Mountain, with good Walls, and a fair Fountain replenished from the Castle; which stands upon the North side, in a place yet higher, that commands the City; where there lives a Bassa, who has under him two hundred spahis, and four hundred Janissaries. Merdin is the place where was born the Lady Maani Gioerida, the first Wife of Pietro de la Valle, so well known for his famous Travels. As for Cousasar, which is a large Village, it is inhabited for the most part by Armenian Christians and Nestorians. The Armenians perform Divine Service in their own Language; the Nestorians in the Chaldaïc. The latter showed me two Bibles in a large Volume, in the same Language, written in velum, all the Capital Letters being in Gold and Azure. They seemed to be very old; and one of their Priests told me, that it is 937 years ago since one of them was written; the other not above 374 since. When Service is done, they put them in a Chest, and hid them under Ground. I would have given 200 Piastres for the oldest, but they durst not sell it, in regard it belonged to the Church, and was not at their disposal. The twentyseventh, after we had travelled nine hours, we arrived at Karasara, which had been formerly a great Town, and no doubt inhabited by Christians; as appears by seven or eight Churches half ruined, though the Steeples are little the worse. They stand at a good distance one from the other; and upon the North-side of one of those Churches there is a Gallery, at the end whereof, through a little Door you descend about a hundred Steps, every Step being ten Inches thick. When you come under the Church, you meet with a larger and bigger Vault, supported with Pillars. The Building is so contrived, that there is more light below than in that above; but of late years the Earth has stopped up several Windows. The great Altar is in the Rock; on the right side whereof is a Room, which receives the light from several Windows contrived in the Rock. Over the Gate of the Church was a great Freestone, wherein were certain Letters that I could not read. On the North-side of the same Church under Ground are to be seen two great Cisterns, each four hundred and fifty Paces long; with two great Arches, sustained with several Pillars. Every year they fill them with the Water that falls from the next Mountain, and makes a kind of a River. A quarter of a League from the Church, you descend the Mountain for above a hundred Paces together among the Rocks, on each side whereof are Rooms cut out of the Rock. Upon every Door there is a Cross; and in every Room as it were a Bench, and a Table, with a little place about the length of a Man, like a Bedstead, all cut out of the Rock. At the bottom of the Rock is a Hall, round about the Wall whereof is a Bench to sit on. The Roof is all plain, without any Arch; in the middle whereof there is a Hole to the top of the Mountain: but in regard it gives no light, 'tis very probable 'twas only made to let out the Smoke when they dressed their Meat; or else to let in the fresh Air, as I have seen in many Villages upon the Persian Gulf. Upon the highest of those Mountains stands a paltry Village, where they buy their Victuals. But before the Caravan arrives, certain Merchants ride before to inform themselves from the Herdsmen, whether they know of any Thiefs in the Grottoes, that often hid themselves there in expectation of Prey. In the year 1638, Sultan Amur at going to besiege Babylon, marched this very way, as well to see these Ruins, as to give order for the demolishing a Fort that stood not above two Leagues off of Karasera, which the Thiefs of the Country made their place of retreat. He also at the same time caused the Road to be cleared for four days journey, by ordering the Stones to be picked up and laid in heaps, all along the Road. He also built a Bridge over the River. And indeed, that March of the Grand Signior was very advantageous to all Travellers that pass this way. The twenty-eighth we travelled eight hours, and came to Nesbin, anciently Nisibis. Two or three hours' travel on this side, near the Road, is a kind of Hermitage, being a small Room enclosed with Walls, the Door whereof is so low, that a Man must creep upon his Belly to get in. Three or four Jews went and performed their Devotions at this Hermitage, believing it to be the place where the Prophet Elisha was buried. The Country from Cousasar to Nesbin is a large Plain, where for the first days journey you shall see no other green Herb upon the Ground but only Pimpernel; the Roots whereof are so large, that there are some a Foot and a half in diameter. The next day, the Fields are covered with a large thick Leaf, the Root whereof is bulbous, and as big as an Egg. There are also great store of yellow, red, and violet Flowers, Tulips of several colours, Emonies, and single Daffodils. But in general Mesopotamia is a very barren Country, and there are very few places that can be bettered by Art or Industry. Nesbin is only the Shadow of the ancient Nisibis, being now only a large Village; the Inhabitants whereof are Christians, both Armenians and Nestorians. Our Caravan lodged a little beyond, in a Churchyard adjoining to one of the Armenian Churches. The next day, hearing people sing, I went to the Church with the two Capuchins, where I saw an Armenian Bishop, with his Mitre, and a wooden Crosier, accompanied with several Priests and a good Congregation. When Service was done, after some few Compliments between us, he led us down under the Church into a Chapel, where he showed us the Sepulchre of St. James Bishop of Nisibis. In the Churchyard is a Stone about a Foot thick, and six high; upon which were laid several Candles of Wax and Tallow, which the Poor Offer in their Necessities, but especially in their Sicknesses. They believe that Stone to have been the Pedestal for the Statue of some Saint, which the Turks have defaced: so that they give the same Honour to the Pedestal, as they would have given to the Statue. There are also some Roman Characters to be seen, but half worn out, and spaces broken off in some parts: so that I could not learn, in Honour of whom that Statue was erected. Half a League from Nisbin runs a River, which you cross, over a Stone-Bridge. In the way to the River are several pieces of Wall, with an Arch, which made me conjecture, that formerly the City extended as far as the River. Twice Musket-shot from the River, you meet with a Stone, half buried, upon which are written certain Latin Words; whereby it appears that it was the Tombstone of the General of an Army that was a Frenchman: but I could not read his Name, which time had defaced. The same Bishop informed us, that formerly the Moors having besieged the City, there came such a prodigious company of strange Flies, and did so torment both Men and Horses, that they were forced to raise the Siege. You must pay the same Toll at Nisbin as in other places, that is, two Piastres and a half, for every Mule or Horses Load. We lay there three days together, to furnish ourselves with Provisions till we came to Moussul, which is five days journey from Nisbin; the Country between being altogether desert and uninhabited. There is no Water to be found but in two places, and that not very good neither; near to which you shall see some few Herdsmen grazing their cattle. The first of April we departed from Nisbin; and after we had travelled eleven hours, we lay near to a River, whither certain Shepherds brought us Hens to sell. The second we travelled ten hours, and lay at a paltry Town, where we met with nothing to eat. The third we travelled thirteen hours, and lodged by a pitiful Fountain, the Water whereof was hardly good enough for our Horses. The fourth we travelled ten hours, and came to lodge by the Bank of a little River, near to which appeared the Ruins of a Bridge and a Castle. The fifth we travelled eleven hours, to reach Moussul, which is not far from the ancient Niniveh. Moussul is a City that makes a great show without, the Walls being of Freestone; but within it is almost all ruin'd, having only two blind Market-places, with a little Castle upon the Tigris, where the Bassa lives. In a word, there is nothing worth a Man's sight in Moussul, the place being only considerable for the great concourse of Merchants; especially the Arabians and Curds, which are the Inhabitants of the ancient Assyria, now called Curdistan, where there grows great plenty of Galls, and for which there is a great Trade. There are in it four sorts of Christians, Greeks, Armenians, Nestorians, and Maronites. The Capuchins had a pretty Dwelling upon the Tigris; but the Bassa laying a Fine upon them, because they went about a little to enlarge it, they were forced to quit it. The City is governed by a Bassa, that has under him, part Janissaries, part spahis, about three thousand Men. There are only two scurvy Inns in Moussul, which being full when we came, I caused my Tent to be set up at the Meydan, or great Marketplace. Now to say something in general of the difference of the two Rivers, Tigris and Euphrates, in reference to their Course and Waters: I observed that the Water of Euphrates appeared somewhat red; and that the Stream was not so swift as that of Tigris, which seemed to be whitish, like the Loire. As for its Course, Euphrates runs a far longer way than Tigris. But now let us cross the Tigris, over a Bridge of Boats, to view the sad Ruins of a City that has made such a noise in the World; though there be now scarce any appearance of its ancient splendour. Niniveh was built upon the left Shoar of the Tigris, upon Assyria-side, being now only a heap of Rubbish extending almost a League along the River. There are abundance of Vaults and Caverns uninhabited; nor could a man well conjecture whether they were the ancient Habitations of the people, or whether any houses had been built upon them in former times; for most of the houses in Turkey are like Cellars, or else but one Story high. Half a League from Tigris stands a little Hill encompassed with Houses, on the top whereof is built a Mosque. The people of the Country say 'twas the place where Ionas was buried; and for that place they have so great a veneration, that no Christians are suffered to enter into it, but privately, and for Money. By that means I got in with two Capuchin Friars; but we were forced to put off our Shoes first. In the middle of the Mosque stood a Sepulchre, covered with a Persian Carpet of Silk and Silver, and at the four corners, great Copper Candlesticks with Wax Tapers, besides several Lamps and Ostrich-shells that hung down from the Roof. We saw a great number of moors without, and within sat two Dervi's reading the Alcoran. About a Musket-Shot from Moussul toward the North-East, stands a great Ruined Monastery, enclosed with high Walls, the greatest part whereof is still to be seen. We stayed ten days at Moussul, and having provided all things ready for the rest of our Journey, we set forward for Ispahan. CHAP. V A Continuation of the Road from Nineveh to Ispahan: Together with the Story of an Ambassador, called Dominico de Santis. HAving passed the Tigris, we stayed three quarters of an hours Journey from Nineveh for some Merchants that were to go along with the Caravan. The way which we took was not the usual Road to Persia; but it was a way wherein there were less Duties to be paid; and besides, it was a short cut, the Caravan making but fifty-eight days Journey between Aleppo and Ispahan. From the very banks of the River to the place where we Lodged that Evening, we saw nothing but continued Ruins, which makes me believe, it was the place where the ancient Nineveh stood. We stayed two days near the Mosque, where according to the tradition of the Turks, Ionas was buried, and made choice of a Curd, or Assyrian for our Caravan-Basbi, though the people are generally Thiefs, and must be carefully looked after. But it was a piece of Policy, because we were to cross the ancient Assyria, now called Curdistan; the Language of which Country is a particular Speech. In the two first days Journey we crossed two small Rivers that fall from the Mountains, and empty themselves into Tigris. Our first Journey was through a plain Country all along by the side of a little River; and the second Evening we lodged by the side of a great River that falls from the Mountains toward the North, and running to the South, discharges itself into Tigris. It is called Bohrus, being a very rapid Stream, full of Fish, but more especially excellent Trout. The Caravan was two days passing that River, by reason there were not Boats. For the people are forced to tie long Perches four or five together one upon another, which the Natives call a Kilet. They make it foursquare, and put underneath it about a hundred Goatskins full of wind, to the end the Kilet may not touch the water. Besides the Merchant must be careful to spread good store of thick Felts over the Kilet, of which he must be provided to keep off the Water, lest the Bales that sink the Kilet should take wet. At the four corners are four Perches that serve for Oars, though they avail but little against the force of the Tide; so that you must be forced to hale the Kilet four or five hundred Paces o' this side up the River, and then row down the Stream to the place where you intent to Land the Goods. When the Goods are Landed, the men are forced again to draw the Kilet by main strength out of the water, to take away the Goatskins which are then to be laden upon the Mules appointed to carry them. As for the Horses, Mules, and Asses, as well those that carried the Goods, as those upon which the Men ride; so soon as the Herdsmen thereabout see a Caravan coming, they stock to the Riverside. Those people that wear nothing but a course piece of Linen or a Goatskin to cover their nakedness, take off their clothes and wind them about their Heads, like a Turban. Then every one ties a Goatskin blowed up under his Stomach; and then two or three of the most expert mounting the same number of the best Horses, which are bridled, put themselves first into the Water, while others follow them swimming, and drive the Horses before them; holding the Beast by the Tail with one Hand, and switching him with the other. If they find any Horse or Ass that is too weak, they tie a Goatskin under his Belly to help him. Considering which difficulties, it cannot take up less time than I have mentioned to get over a Caravan of five or six hundred Horses. The Caravan being thus got over, for two or three days has but a very bad Road. The first days journey, the Horses were continually in the Water up to the leg; and the second, and part of the third we travelled through a very desert Country, where we met with very little food, for our Horses, and only a few Brakes to boil our Rice. Having got over this bad way, we came to a River called the great Zarbe, over which we passed upon a Stone-Bridge of nine Arches. They report that this Bridge was built by Alexander the Great, in his March against Darius. A quarter of a League to the Southeast, two Rivers meet, which empty themselves into Tigris. Leaving the Bridge, we came to a Town called Sherazoul, built upon a rising Ground, upon three Redoubts. There resides a Bassa, who must be bribed with a small Present to let the Caravan pass; we lay by the Banks of a River, and stayed there two days. From thence we travelled one days journey over dry Mountains, not finding any Water. But the next day we came into a pleasant Plain, stored with Fruit-trees. This was the Plain of Arbele, where Alexander defeated Darius; containing about fifteen Leagues in all. It is watered with several Rivulets, and in the middle of the Mountain rises a little Hill about half a League in circuit. It is all over covered with the fairest Oaks that ever were seen; and on the top are the Ruins of a Castle, that seems to have been a sumptuous Structure. The Countrypeople say that Darius stayed there while his Captains gave Battle to Alexander. Three Leagues from thence, near a great Mountain toward the North, are to be seen the Ruins of another Castle and several Houses, where they add, that Darius secured some of his Wives when he lost the Battle. This Castle is seated in a most lovely Prospect. At the foot of the Mountain rises a Spring, which a quarter of a League off swells into a River that bears good big Boats. It runs winding about the Mountains to the Southward; so that two days journey from the Hill, you cross it near a Town called Sherazoul, over a fair Stone-Bridge of nine Arches, whereof the Great Sha-Abas caused three to be broken down, after he had taken Bagdat. This City of Sherazoul is built after another manner than any other of the Cities in those parts, being all cut out of a steep Rock for a quarter of a League together, so that you must go up to the Houses by Stairs of fifteen, or twenty steps, sometimes more, sometimes less, according to the situation of the place. The people have no other Doors to their Houses than only a thin round Stone, like a Millstone, which they will roll away when they go in or out, the sides of the Wall being so cut as to receive the Stone like a Case, being level with the Rock. The tops of their Houses are like Niches in the Mountain, where the Inhabitants have contrived Caves to keep their cattle in: So that we judged it to be built for a place of safety to secure the Inhabitants from the Incursions of the Arabians and Bedovins of Mesopotamia. We came to Sherazoul upon Easter-Eve, and stayed there three days to refresh ourselves, after a Lent which we had kept very sparingly. Here I found certain Springs that risen up in large Bubbles, which after I had mixed with two Glasses of Wine and drank up, I found to have a Purgative quality, having a kind of Mineral taste. These Springs boil up near the side of a River called Altun-sou, or, The River of Gold, that falls into the River Tigris, three days journey on this side Bagdat. The next day we lay at a pitiful Town, upon the Frontiers of Turkey and Persia. The next day, being the fifth after we set out from Niniveh, we passed over several Fens and hot Waters, that part the two Empires. Entering thus into Persia, we met with a high Mountain covered with fair Oaks, which bear the Gall-Nuts, so high, that the Caravan was some hours ere it could get to the top. As we ascended, but especially when we were up, we heard several Muskets go off. At first we thought the people had been hunting the wild Boars or Stags, of which the Mountains are full: but the report of the Guns being too loud and too thick for Hunters, we stood upon our guard; and I believe we should have mended our paces, had we known what was intended us. Besides, I remembered that the Countrypeople would not sell any thing but for Powder and Bullet, which the Caravan-Bashi advised me not to let them have, for fear they should make use of it against ourselves. From the Mountain we descended into a fertile Plain, watered with several Rivers; and night approaching, we set up our Tents, not fearing any thing, because we were in the Dominions of the King of Persia, where there is so much security in travelling. After that we sent our Servants to the Tents of the Countrymen, but they brought us nothing but Bread made of Acorns, than which the poor people thereabouts eat no other. This Acorn is about the bigness of our Nuts; and once I met with a Branch that had thirty Acorns, and twentythree Gall-Nuts, all at one time growing upon it. The Province which we travelled through then, composed the greatest part of the ancient Assyria. But now to come to the Story of Dominico de Santis the Venetian. He had Letters of Credence from the Pope, the Emperor, the King of Poland, and the Republic of Venice, to the King of Persia; and he went in the Caravan through the Grand Signor's Territories, never discovering himself who he was; but coming into Persia, he took upon him without fear the Title of Ambassador from the Commonwealth of Venice. From the Plain where we lodged, it is two days journey to a good big Town, to which belongs a Fortress, where the Governor of the Province has a Lieutenant, with about two thousand Horse under his Command. The Fortress is upon the right hand toward the South, after three hours riding upon the Highway. To this Lieutenant, the Caravan-Bashi was according to duty bound to give notice of the Arrival of the Caravan, and an account of the Persons and their Merchandise. This Venetian was a person ill fitted for the quality of an Ambassador, being a person of no Parts; which made me wonder that such great Princes, and so wise a Commonwealth should send such a person upon a Concern of that importance. For the Grand Signior then assailing Candy, he was sent to excite the King of Persia to engage him in a War against the Turk, thereby to keep off the Storm that threatened Christendom. Thereupon I told the Ambassador, that it was necessary for him to give the Commander of the Fort first notice of his coming, to the end he might give advice thereof to Solyman-Kan Governor of the Province, whose duty it was to advertise the King. Thereupon he requested me to send my Interpreter, which I did. Upon whose intelligence the Lieutenant of the Fort came to Compliment the Ambassador on the behalf of the chief Commander, and to conduct him to the Castle. Thereupon the Ambassador, myself, and my Interpreter, together with some Armenian Merchants went with him, travelling for three hours over the Mountains. By that time we came half the way, as we passed through a Wood, we heard as it were some person give a Whistle; at which when the Lieutenant perceived us to be somewhat startled, he carried us to the place from whence the Whistle came, where we saw a Serpent about as big as a Man's Thigh, and about twelve Foot long, whose head was squeezed between two Trees, that put him to pain. From that Mountain we descended into a pleasant Plain, where the Commander of the Fortress stayed for us under his Tent. He had set it up by the side of a River, under the shade of several great Walnut-trees. So soon as he saw us, he risen from his great Silk Tapestry Coverlet, and saluted us in a most civil manner, telling us, that assuredly Sha-Abas, his Master, would be very glad to hear that the Monarches of Christendom had sent him an Ambassador, and that he would write to Solyman-Kan, whose duty it was to advertise the Emperor. Thereupon he wrote and dispatched away a Messenger, giving him order to tell the Deroga, or Judge of the Town, through which we were to pass, that he should make Provision for us and our Horses till we came to the Governor. After he had asked us several Questions concerning the War between the Grand Signior and the Venetians, how many thousand men he had as well by Sea as Land, and what number of Galleys and Ships? wherein we satisfied him according to the best of our knowledge. After he had civilly treated us, he sent his Lieutenant back with us again to the Caravan. About ten a Clock the next night we dislodged, and the Lieutenant and six Soldiers attended upon us; who told us he had order not to leave us, till he had brought us to Solyman Can. The next night we lodged between two Hills, among several Tents of Herdsmen. Here it was that the Commander had ordered that we should be treated by the Deroga. A Deroga, as I have said, is the Judge of a Village: But this Deroga was chief of many Families, some of which were of Mesopotamia, others of Arabia. These are all Herdsmen that never live in Houses, but retire with their Cattle to the holes in the Rocks, where partly Nature, partly Art, have contributed to make them convenient Habitations. So soon as we were alighted, four ancient men came and led the Ambassador and myself to the Derogas Tent. It seemed to consist of many Rooms, with a Hall in the middle, spread with fair Persian Carpets. He caused us to sit down upon Cushions, and then presented us with a Pipe of Tobacco, and Water to wash our Feet. After he had nobly treated us, and that we were upon taking our leaves, the Deroga was very much troubled that we had made a small Present to his Son; telling us, that it was a crime for him to take any thing of the King's Guests, especially from Strangers that had come so long a Journey. The next day we lodged in a place where there was such a prodigious quantity of Lilies that the Ground was almost covered with them. There were none that were white, being for the most part of a fair Violet colour, with a streak of Red in the middle of every leaf; they are like our lily's, but much bigger. And to drink the infusion of the Roots of these lily's, especially those whose Leaves are blackest, for fifteen days together, is a most Sovereign remedy against the Pox. Not long after came a Person of a goodly Aspect, who seemed to be an Arabian, but he spoke the Persian Language, whom Solyman Can had sent to Compliment the Ambassador. He carried us to the Tent which the Governor had caused to be set up in a Garden near the Town, where he also Lodged the Capuchins. The Ambassador also sent to Compliment the Can by my interpreter; and when the hour was come that we were to set forward, he gave order to six of the Captains of his Cavalry to accompany the Ambassador. The House where the Governor lived in, was one of the most beautiful in Persia. And as for the Governor himself, we found him in a Gallery that looked upon the Garden, the Floor being all spread over with a Tapestry of Gold and Silk, with large Cushions of Cloth of Gold all along the Wall. After some Questions and discourse concerning the Affairs of Europe, they served in Supper, which consisted of several Dishes; but no Wine was to be had; our drink being only Sherbet and the juice of Granates, with Sugar for those that desired it. We were a long time at Supper, for 'tis the custom of Persia that when one man rises, another takes his place and falls too, in so much that the Master of the Feast must have the Patience to stay till several have taken their turns; and when every one has done, the Cloth is taken away without any more to do. Here the Ambassador committed an absurdity; for there are no Silver or Gold Spoons in Persia, but only long Wooden Ladles that reach a great way. Now the Ambassador reaching his Ladle to a Purslane-Dish full of Pottage that was scalding hot, clapped it presently into his mouth; but finding it so hot that he could not endure it, after several scurvy faces, he threw it out of his mouth again into his hand, in the presence of all the Company. After we had stayed five days at Sneirne, the Caravan-Bashi signified his desire to pursue his Journey. Thereupon the Ambassador took his leave of the Governor, presenting him with a Watch and a pair of Pistols; who in retaliation presented the Ambassador with a stately Horse, and a Colt of two years old. The next day we dislodged, and pursued our Road to Amadan, which is not above three days Journey from Sneirne. Amadan is one of the largest and most considerable Cities of Persia, seated at the foot of a Mountain, where do arise an infinite company of Springs that water all the Country. The Land about it abounds in Corn and Rice, wherewith it furnishes the greatest part of the neighbouring Provinces. Which is the reason that some of the Persian Statesmen hold it very inconvenient for the King of Persia to keep Bagdat, as well by reason of the vastness of the Charge, as also for that it draws from Amadan that which should supply other Provinces. On the other side, it is easy for the Grand Signior to hold it, by reason of the neighbourhood of Mesopotamia, Assyria, and the Arabs, Enemies to the Persians: by which means Provisions are very cheap, which the people would not know where to put off, if the King of Persia were Lord of Bagdat. We stayed at Amadan about ten days, by reason of the Rains; during which time the Caravans cannot travel. While we tarried there, we were visited by several Babylonian Christians, who were glad to see that we had escaped the Clutches of the Bassa of Bagdat, who had given order to the Bassa of Karkou, and the Bey of Sharassou that commands the Frontiers of Turkey, to seize us, and carry us back to Bagdat. For which we might have thanked the Ambassador, and a malicious Rabbi, that came along with us in the Caravan from Aleppo; who finding the Feast of the Tabernacles to be at hand, and that we had a great way to Ispahan, left us at Niniveh, to keep the Festival with the Jews of Babylon. Where that he might insinuate himself into the Bassa's favour, he informed him that there was a Fringuiz in the Caravan, whom he looked upon as a Spy, and that he was an Envoy into Persia from the Commonwealth of Venice; for he carried no Merchandise, but had three Chests full of rich Habits, and several other things which he took for Presens to the Persian King. For out of vanity or folly, the Venetian had several times opened his Chest and exposed his Gallantry to view. And yet he was so clutch-fisted and niggardly in every thing, that when there was any occasion to reward the Khan's Servant, or any of the Countrymen that brought us the Dainties of the place, it came all out of my Pocket. So that I left him to my Interpreter and the two Capuchins; and with three Servants and a Guide, after I had stayed at Amadan three days, I took Horse for Ispahan. When I came there, the Nazar or Master of the King's Household hearing I had left an Ambassador behind me with the Caravan, enquired of me what manner of Person he was, but I pretended I had had little converse with him, unwilling to discover his mean Spirit. The Evening before his Arrival the Nazar sent to give the Fringuiz notice in the King's Name, that they should be ready to go meet the Ambassador the next day; which we did, and brought him into the City and through Ali's Gate, that joins to the King's Palace. Now 'tis the custom for all Ambassadors to salute that Gate, by reason of a white Marble Stone made like an Ass' back, and which serves for a Step: being, as they report, brought anciently out of Arabia, where Ali lived. So soon as you have strid over that Stone without touching it, which were a great crime, you enter into a kind of a Gallery, where there are Rooms on each side, which serves for a Sanctuary for Criminals, which the King himself cannot fetch out of that place. That day that the new King receives his Ensigns of Royalty, he goes to stride over that Stone; and if by negligence he should chance to touch it, there are four Guards at the Gate, that would make a show of thrusting him back again. But now the Master of the Ceremonies being ready to conduct the Ambassador to the Apartment allotted him, as an Ambassador that came from three great Monarches, and a potent Commonwealth, he desired to lodge at the House of one Pietro Pentalet, descended from Venetian Parents; whereupon the Master of the Ceremonies conducted him thither, and caused his Dinner to be brought him. While we were eating, I counted thirteen Languages spoken at the Table; Latin, French, High-Dutch, English, Low-Dutch, Italian, Portuguez, Persian, Turkish, Arabic, Indian, Syriac, and Malaye, which is the Language of the Learned, that is spoken from the River Indus to China and Japan, and in all the Lands of the East, like Latin in Europe; not reckoning the little Moresco or Gibberish of the Country. So that it is a difficult thing to observe what is talked in one Company, where the Discourse gins in one Language, is pursued in another, and finished in a third: and for the Turks and Armenians, they never speak above three or four Languages at most. Now to show you the Civility of the Persians; the Master of the Ceremonies came to the Ambassador and told him, that if he did not like the Cookery of the Persians, he had Order from the Atemadoulet, who is as the Grand Vizier in Turkey, to offer him Money instead of Diet, to the end he might dress his own Meat as he pleased himself. Upon which the covetous Ambassador accepted his offer, and two hours after there was a Bag brought him of 50 Tomans, which amount to about 800 Crowns. The Franks being offended at his baseness, slighted the Ambassador, and left him to keep House by himself, which was poor enough God knows; an Onion or a Turnip serving his turn for a Meal. Some days after, he had Audience of the King, to whom he presented his Letters Credential from the Pope, the Emperor, the King of Poland, and the Commonwealth of Venice. Those from the three last were well received, because the Seals were of Gold, and for that the Paper was embellished with curious Flourishes: but the Pope's Letters were rejected with scorn, because the Seals were only of Lead, as the Bulls are usually sealed; and for that the Writing was very plain. For the Kings of Persia, who are very nice, love things that are gay to the Eye; otherwise they look upon themselves to be affronted. Dominico de Santis had better have taken upon him the meaner quality of an Envoy, than the title of an Ambassador, unless he had known better how to behave himself; especially being so eclipsed as he was by a real Ambassador that arrived at Ispahan some time after. All the Franks went forth to meet him, and the Master of the Ceremonies made him the same proffers as he had done to the Venetian: but he nobly answered, That whatever it were that the King of Persia sent him, he should take it for a very great Honour: otherwise, if he would have eaten Gold, the King his Master would have allowed him 30 Mules Load. Such persons as behave themselves with decency and a good grace, are the persons that the Christian Princes should send into Persia, who are the most refined Wits, and the best Politicians of all Asia. To conclude the Story of the Venetian, I will give you his Character. An Indian naturally of a good Wit having embraced Christianity and an Ecclesiastical Life, went to Rome to complete his Studies which he had begun at Goa; whither, the Pope, taking an affection to him, sent him afterward as his Vicar. Dominico de Santis being then at Rome, put himself into his service, and followed him into the Indies, where I saw him the first time I went, in a mean condition. Upon his return to Venice, where he was in no credit before, he made people believe that he understood the Trade of Asia; whereupon some particular Merchants trusted him with some Goods, which were cast away at Said. Thus poor and bare he returned to Goa, where he got 800 Crowns by a charitable Contribution. From thence he travelled to Ispahan, where he fell into the acquaintance of Father Rigordi a Jesoite, with whom he went into Poland: where making his brags of the great knowledge he had of the Affairs of Persia, the King gave him that Commission which I have already mentioned. The Emperor followed his Example, and the Commonwealth of Venice did the same: and to give the more lustre and authority to his Embassy, they got the Pope to join with them. But alas! both Dominico de Santis, and all such persons as he, that go into Asia without Brains and good Behaviour, do out prostitute the Reputation of the Princes that send them. Such another was Father Rigordi, who after he had been thrust out of Goa by the Portugals, went to Ispahan, where he insinuated himself by a Proposition which he made of Marrying the King of Persia, who was then a very young Prince, to the Duchess of Orleanoe. Under which pretence he was well received and treated by the King; from whom he also recerved some Presents by virtue of that Proposal, which was good sport to the Duchess when she heard of it. As for the Venetian, the Atemudoulet, who was very glad to be rid of him, desired the Muscovite Ambassador, who was then upon his return home, to take him along with him, which he did as far as the Caspian Sea, where they take Shipping for Astracan; but there the Muscovite told him he could carry him no further: thereupon he was forced to come back to Ispahan, and so to travel to Goa, whence the Portugals shipped t'him home for Charity's sake. But when he came to Venice, has was so far from being well received, that the Senate had like to have punished him severely for giving so bad an account of his Negotiation. CHAP. VI Of the Road which the Author kept, when he Travelled the fourth time into Asia, to go from Paris to Ormus. And first of his Voyage from Marseilles to Alexandretta. ISet out from Paris in the company of Monsieur d'Ardiliere the eighteenth of June, 1651. and arrived at Marseilles the sixteenth of July. On the twenty-sixth of August we set Sail, with a favourable North-West Wind that blew very briskly the two next days; but at length it grew so very slack, that coming about to the North. North-East, we made for Sardinia. Upon the second of September by Sunrising, we discovered the Western Coast of Sardinia, six Leagues from the Land. About Noon the Wind chopping about again to the North-West, we held on our first Course; and upon the third of September, we descried the Island Galita upon the Coast of Africa. On the fourth we discovered the Island of Zambino before Tunis, and about Evening Cape Bon, which is the most Southerly Point of all Africa. The fifth we had a sight of the Island of Pantalaria, and the Coast of Sicily. The sixth we discovered the Island of Goza, and the seventh the Castle that bears the same name. We landed at Malta upon the day of the Nativity of the Virgin, which is a great day among the Malteses, upon which they give thanks to God, for that the Turks raised their Siege upon that day. The Grand-Master goes to the Church of St. John, accompanied with all the chief Commanders in their Robes of Command, and the greatest part of the Knights. All the Countrymen and Citizens are up in Arms upon that day, and march to the Inn called the Auvernian-house, with the Knight that goes to fetch the Standard. This Knight is clad in a Cassock of Crimson-Velvet, with a Cross of the Order, before and behind. He wears a Helmet upon his head, and carries the Standard upon his shoulders; and by him marches the Grand-Master's Page, who carries a Sword in one hand, and a Dagger in the other, both very richly Embellished, and given to the Order by CHARLES the fifth. The Page that carried the Sword and Dagger was the youngest Nephew of Pope Innocent the tenth. The Soldiers and Citizens marching before to the Church door, make a Lane for the Knight and the Page to pass on to the Altar, where the Knight makes three bows, and having done as much to the Grand-Master, places himself on the right hand of the Grand-Masters Chair, and the Page on the left. Then the Mass and the Music gins, and while the Gospel is reading, the Grand-Master takes the Sword and the Dagger out of the Page's hand, and holds them with the points upward all the remaining part of the Mass. During the Elevation of the Host, the Knights repeats the same Ceremony as at the beginning; and then the Bells ring, the great Guns go off, and the Soldiers give three Volleys. Mass being ended, the Grand-Master retires, accompanied as before, only that he is then attended by all the Ecclesiastical persons of the City, and coming out of the Church, he proceeds with all the Infantry marching before him toward our Lady's of Victory, where they all go in procession. While they make a stand in that place, the Soldiers give another Volley, which is answered by all the Canons in the Town, as also from the Ships and Galleys. After that they return to St. John's; and the Infantry Guard the Standard back to the Inn, while the Grand-Master goes to his Palace. The ninth we viewed the Fortifications, which are stored with very fair pieces of Canon. The tenth we saw the Pages perform their Exercises before the Grand-master, which are generally vaulting and handling their Arms, both Musket and Pike. The elev'nth we viewed the Arsenal, where I was assured that there were Arms for twenty thousand men, being in good order, and rarely well looked after. The next day we visited the Infirmary, where the sick are served in Plate, as well the poor as rich. The twentieth we set Sail, having the Wind at West-South-West, and a fresh gale; so that upon the twenty-third we discovered the Coast of the Morea, to which we approached so near, as to descry Navarin. In the Evening we saw the City of Coron, where there is a great Trade for Salad-oil. From thence it was that the Great Turk Embarked for Candy in the year 1645. The twenty-fourth the Wind was at East-North-East. In the Morning we discovered the Cape of Matapan, which is the most Southern Point of Land in Europe, lying in the Morea, and at Noon the Island of Cherigo. The twenty-fifth we drew near Cyprus, and descried a Mountain in that Island, called Canteliere, with some other Promontories toward the South. From the twentyseventh day till we came to Alexandretta, we perceived the Sea to be all over covered with Pumice-stones, which happ'nd from an Earthquake that had for some time before swallowed up the Island of Santorini. Some think that it proceeded from the abundance of Sulphur, of which that Country is full, which took Fire, and was the death of above 750 of the Islanders, that were partly buried in the Ruins, and partly died out of fear. They that remained alive, became black like Charcoal; and the Vapours that ascended out of the Abyss sullied all the Silver as far as Constantinople; the noise of the Earthquake being heard as far as Smyrna. The twenty-ninth, by break of day we discovered the Island of Cyprus. The first of October by eight in the Morning we came to an Anchor before Salines, which is one of the Ports of Cyprus, where our Consuls live. Here I asked several of the Christians of the Country, how they did to live and pay their Carriage? Who told me that it was with a great deal of difficulty, in regard the Island was very bare of Money; which was the reason that many Christians turned Mahometans, to avoid paying their Carriage, which is a Tribute that the Grand Signior jays upon all Christians throughout his Dominions. He exacts from the poorest six Piastres a Head; but there are some that pay a hundred, or a hundred and fifty: and this Tribute is due so soon as ever they come to be eighteen years of age. The Island of Cyprus is one of the most considerable in the Mediterranean Sea, more to the East than any of the rest; bearing the title of a Kingdom, as being 500 Miles in circuit. It is not all of the same breadth, being of a triangular form, the sides whereof are very unequal. To it there belong several Capes or Promontories, the principal whereof are, St. Epiphanio, toward the West; Cape de Gate, toward the South; Cape Diegrega, toward the North-East; Cape Cormachiti, toward the North; and Cape St. Andrew, upon the most Eastern Point of the Island. The principal Roads are that of Salines or Larneca, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines' or Cerigni. The Haven of Famagosta signifies nothing as to great Ships, there being none but small Vessels that can ride there. The Venetians had formerly made a small Mole there to harbour their Galleys, but it is now quite ruined. The Road of Cerines' is that where the Barks and Galliots lie that come from Caramania, and Payasses; and where the Bassa's land that are sent as Governors of the Island from Constantinople, who reside generally at Nicosia. That City is almost in the middle of the Island, and was formerly a very large one, as appears by the compass of the ancient Walls. The new Walls are well terraced withinside, and in a good posture of defence. There are three Gates belong to the City; that of Famagosta, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines'. The City itself is no uncomely place; the Venetians having adorned it with many fair Palaces, which the Turks demolish every day, out of hopes to find hidd'n Treasure therein, and sell the Stones to build new Houses. The Cathedral that goes by the name of Santa Sophia is an ample and fair Structure, of which the Turks have now made a Mosque, together with one more, which was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Austin-friars-s. The Greeks have there four Churches, and the Franks two; that is to say, the French Missionary Capuchins, and the Italian Missionary Soccolans. The first have a Church dedicated to St. James, the others another, which is called Holy Rood Church. The Armenians also have another belonging to them, which is a very neat Building, which was formerly a Monastery of the Carthusians. There it is that there is a Tomb, adorned with several Sculptures of Religious Nuns, especially an Abbess with a Cross in her Hand, the Writing about the Stone being in French Characters. The City is seated in a temperate Air and a fertile Soil, abounding with Water. It extends more in length than breadth, having been anciently nine Miles in compass; but the Venetians to make it stronger, reduced it to the circuit of three. The Work of the Fortification was so neat, and such a proportion observed in all things, that the most famous Engineers esteemed it one of the most stately Fortresses in the World, when Sclim the Second sent an Army against it, under the Command of Mustapha his Grand Vizier. Famagosta is a Sea-Town upon the East-side of the Island, and the chief Bulwark of it. It is kept in good repair, the Castle within being in form of a Citadel. The Turks have converted into Mosques the Churches of the Christians, who are not suffered to dwell in the City. They have only the liberty to come thither in the day, and to open Shops, which they shut up again at night, and then go home to their Houses in the neighbouring Villages. The City is governed by a Bey, who has no dependence upon the Governor of the Island, who is obliged to maintain a Galley for the guard of the Coast. Cerines' is another little City, but without any defence, the Walls thereof being all tumbled to ruin. Only there is a Fortress toward the Sea, well built, with a Garrison in it. There is also a handsome Monastery of Religious Greeks, built somewhat after the French manner; wherein there are some of the Cells which stand so upon the Sea, that they can fish out of the Windows. The Fields about it bear Cotton, which is the chief Revenue of the Monastery. There is only the Fort of Cerines' upon the North, where the Island does not lie so open, as toward the South and East; which besides by that of Famagosta, are guarded by the Forts of Salines, Limisso, and Paphos. The Inhabitants of the Island are for the most part Greeks, especially in the Villages. They are clad after the Italian manner, both Men and Women; the Men wearing Hats like the Franks, and retaining their ancient Customs as much as is possible for them to do. The Trade of the Island lies in Cotton-wool, which is the best in all the East; and some Silk, which is neither good, nor very plentiful. However the Island is fertile enough, did it not want Inhabitants enough to till it. As for Bread, Wine, Cheese, and Milk, they are all very cheap, and there is Oil enough to serve the Island. But for the Wine, it is transported out of the Island to all the places of Trade not far distant. The best grows at the foot of Olympus, and is a delicious sort of Drink. The Country between Nicosia and Famagosta produces Cotton, of which there grows also some between Paphos and Limisso. The chief place where the Silk is made is called Cytherea, a large Town watered with a fair River that runs from the Mountain of Venus. This River turns several Mills, which are the chief Revenue of the Island. There is Silk also made between Paphos and Limisso; upon the Road between which two places you meet with a Town called Piscopi, where are to be seen several Aqueducts, that carried the Water into the Rooms and Magazines where the people formerly made Sugar. But since the Island was taken from the Venetians, one of the Bassa's that was sent as Governor, burnt up all the Sugar Canes in the Country. Toward the Seashore near Limisso, is to be seen one of the fairest Gardens of Cyprus, which they call Shiti; to which there belongs a magnificent House, and a Grove of Orange-Trees. It was built by a rich Venetian, who had a good Estate in Lands thereabouts. In Cyprus the people take a vast number of Birds as big as a Lark, especially near the Mountain of the Holy Cross. In the Months of September and October, the Countrypeople of the adjacent Villages make themselves little Huts in the Fields, where usually those Birds are wont to light, and feed upon the Seed of an Herb that grows there; which when it is dry, the people daub over with Lime-twigs. But this they never do but when the North-West Wind blows, and that the weather be very cold; for with a Southerly Wind they never take any. These Birds are accounted great Dainties by the Venetians, who make no great Feasts in Carnival-time wherein they do not set these Birds upon the Table, piled up in Dishes like a Pyramid. They buy them up every year; being first prepared fit for exportation by the people, who having pulled off their Feathers, parboil them, and pickle them up in Barrels with Vinegar and Salt. When they are to be eaten, they are set upon a Chafing-dish, between two Dishes. Sometimes there are above a thousand Barrels exported out of the Island; and indeed, were it not for this Trade, the poor people would see but very little Money. Upon the Mountain of the Holy Cross stands a Church of the same name; upon which the report of the Country goes, that St. Helena returning from Jerusalem left a piece of our Saviour's Cross with the Christians of Cyprus, who built a Church there, by means of the Liberality of the same Princess. Afterwards those of the Town of Leucara took it from hence, and carried it to their Church, where I saw it. The piece is as big as the Palm of a Man's Hand, set in a great Cross of Latin, embossed with several Figures. In the Kingdom of Cyprus there is an Archbishop and three Suffragans. The Archbishop takes upon him the Title of Nicosia; to which Famagosta belongs with all the Country between Nicosia and Famagosta, with the Territories of Nicosia and all the Villages round. He has a House about a League from Nicosia, where the chiefest of his Revenue lies. Some years since he caused the high Altar of the Church to be painted and guilded, being a neat piece of Workmanship. Thus the Archbishop has under his Jurisdiction all the middle part of the Island, and some part toward the East. The Bishops are the Bishops of Paphos, Larneca; and Cerines'. The Greeks are very much addicted to the observation of their ancient Customs and Ceremonies; and generally their Masses are very long. Upon Sundays and holidays they rise between one and two of the Clock in the Morning to Sing Matins. To which purpose there is a Clerk that goes from door to door and knocks with a Hammer, to wake the people, and then cries out with a loud voice, Christians go the Church. The men and old women fail not to go as being more zealous; but the maids and young women never go out of doors in the night for fear of the Turks. There are seven or eight Villages, the Inhabitants whereof are Maronites, who came from Mount Libanus, and speak Arabic at home, but Greek among the Islanders. They follow the Romish Religion, and have their Churches peculiar to themselves. The Island of Cyprus is no wholesome Air, being subject to the spoil of a sort of Locusts, that some Summers destroy all their Fruit and Corn. During the heats they hover in the Air, which they will darken with their number like a thick Cloud; but when the North Wind blows, it carries them into the Sea, where they perish. There are in Cyprus three sorts of coloured Earth, a Grey-black, a Red, and a Yellow; of which the Venetians fetch away great quantities for their courser sort of Painting. There's also a Mine of White Alum, which is the stone called Damiantlius. 'Tis thought that the Ancients had a way to spin this Alum into a kind of Cotton, and so to make out of it a certain sort of Cloth that would not consume in the Fire, but only be the more perfectly whitened thereby. The Indians formerly buried the dead bodies of their Kings deceased in Shrouds of this kind of Linen, and then putting them into the Fire, found the bodies all reduced to ashes, but the Cloth whole; out of which they took the ashes, and carefully put them into an Urn, which was prepared for their preservation. When the Bassa of Cyprus has a mind to view the Fortress of Famagosta, he sends to give the Bey, who is Governor thereof, notice of it. For it is at the Governors' choice whether he will give him admission or no. The Bassa Hali-Giorgi, being a comely old man of above a hundred and two years of age, setting out of Nicosia in his Litter with about two hundred Horse, when he was come within half a League of Famagosta, the Governor of the place sent his Lieutenant with a hundred Horse to Compliment him, and to conduct him to the Town. Immediately they took upon them the Guard of the Bassa's Litter, who was not permitted to take along with him above eight or ten of his principal Officers. The Cannons roared at his entry, and he was treated magnificently, but he lay not in the Town, being conducted back by the same party to the place where they met him in the Morning. Upon the third day of October we set Sail about three a Clock in the Morning with a West-North-West Wind, and about Noon we were within sight of Famagosta, into which place we could by no means be admitted, by reason of the Wars between the Turks and Venetians. But as far as I could discern a far off, there is no easy access to the Port, and for the City I could descry no part of it. The fourth, by break of day we got sight of the Coast of Syria, Cape Canger, and the Golf of Antioch, and about Evening we arrived in the Road of Alexandretta. From thence we went to Aleppo, and stayed there from the seventh of October; to the thirtieth of December. On the thirtieth we set forward for Nineveh, and with little variation of the Road which I have already described in my third Voyage from Paris. We arrived the second day of February at Moussul or Nineveh, where we stayed till the fifteenth, till the Kilets or Boats of the Country could be got ready. Our Kilet carried thirty Passengers, and sixty hundred of Aleppo Weight, or thirty three thousand pound of Paris Weight, upon which the Tigris bore us from Moussul to Babylon. CHAP. VII. A Continuation of the Road which the Author kept in the fourth Voyage into Asia, and particularly of his passage upon the Tigris from Nineveh to Babylon. THE fifteenth of February we put off from Moussul, and after we had swum six hours, we came to lie near a hot Bath, about a Musket-shot from the Tigris. It was thronged with Sick people that came thither for their Recovery. We kept ourselves upon the Watch all night; but for all we could do, the Arabs stole two Coverlets from a Merchant, and a Turk's clothes that was gone into the Bath. The sixteenth, after we had rowed about five hours, we came to a huge Dam; it is 200 Foot wide, and makes a fall in the River of about 20 Fathoms steep. The Arabians said that Alexander the Great made it to turn the course of the River; others will have it, that Darius caused it to be made to hinder the passage of the Macedonians by Water. However, we were forced to land ourselves and our Goods, and to lad them upon Horses which the Arabs brought us. The passing this Dam is worthy observation. For it is a thing of wonder to see the Kilet all of a sudden fall above sixscore Foot, and yet to be kept by the Leather-Bottles still above Water. The Watermens that guide the Boat, tie themselves and their Oars fast to a Perch bend like a Semicircle, to defend themselves from the force of the Water. And indeed this is the Dam that renders Tigris unnavigable. The Kilet being come to the place where we expected it, we put our Goods aboard, and lay in the same place upon the Bank of the River. For the Arabs, if they perceive the Merchant's asleep, cut the Cords of the Kilet, and setting it a-drift, swim after it, and rifle away what they please. The seventeenth, after three hours rowing we met with the River Zab, that empties into the Tigris, upon Chaldea-side. Half a League above the River stands a fair Castle of Brick upon a little Hill; but no body dwelling in it, it runs to ruin. We were twelve hours that day upon the Water, and came to lie at a place which was full of Wood, where we made great Fires, and shot off our Muskets often in the night to scare the Lions. The eighteenth we were upon the Water eighteen hours, and lay upon the Bank of the River, upon Assyria-side. That Evening the Arabs brought us Milk-Meats, and fresh Butter. They swim from the other side of the River with a Borachio under their Stomaches, and another upon their Heads, wherein they bring their Commodities; for which they will have no Money, but only Tobacco, or Biscuit, or Pepper. The nineteenth, in four hours' time we met with a River called Altum-sou, or The River of Gold. It flows from the Mountains of the Medes, and I travelled by the side of it for three days together, returning from Tauris to Aleppo, and passing the Tigris to Mesia. The Water of the River is of an excellent taste, and it falls into Tigris upon Assyria-side. All along the Tigris, on the same side, are great store of Bituminous Springs, and other Streams of hot Water that smell of Sulphur. All that day we saw none but Arabs and Curds marching along the Banks of the River, the Curds upon Mesopotamia side, and the Arabs upon Assyria side. They were at War, and both sides marched in very good order. The Young men went foremost with Bows and Arrows, and some Muskets, but several Half-Pikes. Next to them their Wives, Virgins, and Children, with their cattle, Herds, and Camels; after which marched the Old men in the rear. As well the Curds as the Arabians sent out Horsemen to scout upon the high Grounds; for as soon as they find any advantage, they presently swim their Horses over the River and fall on. Now because we would not trust those sort of People, we rowed nineteen hours to avoid 'em. The twentieth we were eleven hours upon the Tigris, and came to lie at a Town called Tegrit, upon Mesopotamia side. There belongs to the Town a Castle half ruined, and yet there are still some handsome Chambers to be seen. Upon the North and East, the River serves for a Moat; but upon the West and South it has a deep Artificial one paved with Freestone. The Arabians say that formerly it was the strongest place in all Mesopotamia, though it be commanded by two Hills not far from it. The Christians dwelled half a League from the City, where the Ruins of a Church and part of a Steeple are still to be seen, whereby it appears to have been a considerable Pile of Building. The twenty-first, after we had rowed three hours, we met with a Town upon Assyria side, which was called Amet-el-tour, from the name of a person that lies interred in a Monastery, whom the people account to be a Saint. Therefore is it a place of great Devotion among them, so that great numbers of Votaries go thither in private. That day we were twelve hours upon the Water, and lay upon the Banks of the River. The twentysecond, having been upon the Water two hours, we met with a great Channel cut out of Tigris to water the Lands, which runs up as far as just over-against Bagdat, and there falls into the Tigris again. Coming thither, we landed upon Chaldea side, by reason that there were certain Turks with us, who would of necessity perform their Devotions at a place called Samàtra. In the same there is a Mosque not above half a League from the River; to which many Mahometans pay their Devoirs, especially Indians and Tartars, who believe forty of their Prophets to be buried there. When they knew us to be Christians, they would not permit us, no not for Money, to set our Feet in it. About five hundred Paces from the Mosque stands a Tower very ingeniously built. There are two Staircases without, that belong to it, made twirling like a Periwinkle-shell: one of which Staircases was built deeper into the Tower than the other. I would have taken better notice of it, could I have been permitted to have come nearer it. Only I observed that it was made of Brick, and that it seems to be very ancient. Half a League from thence appear three great Portals, that look as if they had been the Gates of some great Palace. And indeed it is not improbable but that there was some great City thereabouts; for, for three Leagues all along the River there is nothing to be seen but Ruins. We were twelve hours that day upon the Water, and lay upon the Banks of Tigris, according to custom. The twenty-third, we were twenty hours upon the Water, and all the day long we saw nothing upon either side of the River but pitiful Huts made of the Branches of Palm-trees, where live certain poor people that turn the Wheels, by means whereof they water the neighbouring Grounds. We also met that day with a River called Odoine, that falls into Tigris upon the side of the ancient Chaldea. The twenty-fourth, we were twentytwo hours upon the Water together, never stirring off from the Kilet. The reason is, because the Merchants having taken out of the Kilet all their Money and the best part of their Merchandizes, give them to the Countrypeople, who carry them very faithfully to Bagdat, whither they go to sell their own Commodities: which the Merchants do, to avoid the payment of Five in the Hundred, in the City. I trusted them also with several things of which they gave me a very good account, as they did to others, being contented with a small matter for their pains. The twenty-fifth, about four of the Clock in the Morning we arrived at Bagdat, which is as usually called Babylon. They open the Gates by six, and then the Customers come to take an account of the Merchandise, and to search the Merchants themselves. If they find nothing about 'em, they let the Merchants go: but if they have any thing about 'em which ought to pay, they carry the persons to the Customhouse, where they writ down the quantity of the Goods, and let them go. All the Merchandise upon the Kilet is carried thither also, which the Merchant fetches away again in two or three days, paying the Custom: All which is done in very great order, without any noise or disturbance in the least. Though Bagdat usually bear the name of Babylon, yet it is at a great distance from the ancient Babylon, whereof in due place. But now for Bagdat, as it stands at this day. Bagdat is a City seated upon the River of Tigris, on the Coast of Persia, and separated from Mesopotamia by the same River. It lies in 33 Deg. 15 Min. of Elevation. The Chronicles of the Arabians report that it was built by one of their Califs named Almansour, in the year of the Hegyra of Mahomet 145, and of Christianity 762, or thereabouts. They call it Dar-al-sani, that is, the House of Peace. Some say it derived its name from a Hermitage that stood in a Meadow where the City now stands, whence it was called Bagdat, or, a Garden bequeathed. About forty years ago digging up the Foundations of an Inn, the Workmen found a Body entire, habited like a Bishop, with a Censor and Incense by him. And in the same place several Cells of Religious Houses showed themselves: which makes it very probable, that where Bagdat is built there was anciently a great Monastery, with several Houses where the Christians inhabited. The City is about fifteen hundred Paces long, and seven or eight hundred broad, and cannot possibly be above three Miles in circuit. The Walls are of Brick, and terraced in some places, with large Towers like Bastions. Upon all these Towers there are mounted about sixty pieces of Cannon, the biggest whereof carries not above a five or six Pound Ball. The Moats are wide, and about five or six Fathom deep. There are not above four Gates; three upon the Landside, and one upon the River, which you must cross, over a Bridge of thirty-three Boats, distant one from the other about the breadth of one Boat. The Castle is in the City, near to one of the Gates called El-Maazan, upon the North side. It is partly built upon the River, encompassed only with a single Wall, terraced in some places; and adorned with little Towers, upon which are planted about a hundred and fifty Cannon, but without Carriages. The Moat is narrow, and not above two or three Fathom deep, neither is there any Drawbridge before the Gate. The Garrison consists of three hundred Janissaries, commanded by an Aga. The City is governed by a Bassa, who is generally a Vizier. His House is upon the side of the River, making a fair show; and he has always ready at command six or seven hundred Horse. There is also an Aga that commands three or four hundred spahis. They have besides another sort of Cavalry which is called Ginguliler, that is to say, Men of Courage, commanded by two Aga's; and usually there are about three thousand in the City and the Towns adjoining. The Keys of the Gates of the City and the Bridge-Gate are in the custody of another Aga, who has under him two hundred Janissaries. There are also six hundred Footmen, who have their particular Aga, and about sixty Cannoneers, who were at that time commanded by an expert Artist that went by the name of Signior Michaël, who passed for a Turk, though he were born in Candy. He put himself into the Grand Signor's service, when he went to besiege Bagdat, in the year 1638. Though the Turk had the good fortune to carry the City in a small time; not so much by virtue of the Breach which Signior Michaël had made in the Wall, as the Sedition and Revolt that happened at the same instant, the Story whereof was thus in short. The Can that sustained the brunt of the Siege at first, was originally an Armenian, and his name was Sefi-couli-Kan. He had commanded the City a long time, and had defended it twice from the Army of the Turks, who were not able to take it before. But the King of Persia having sent one of his Favourites to command in his room, who had entered upon his Command before the Cannon had made the Breach, the old Can finding himself displaced by the Commission of the new Governor, rather chose to die, than survive the Affront which was put upon him. To which purpose he sent for his Servants, the Officers of the Army, his Wife and Son, and taking three Cups of Poison in his Hand, he commanded his Wife, if ever she loved him, now to show the marks of her affection by generously dying with him. He gave the same exhortation to his Son; and so all three together drank up the Poison, which procured their speedy death. The Soldiers, who had a great love for their Governor, having beheld so dismal a Spectacle, and knowing the Grand Signior was preparing for a general Assault, would not obey their new Can, but began to act like Revolter's; and to that purpose they agreed to deliver up the City, upon condition they might march away with their Arms and Baggage: but the Turks did not keep their words. For so soon as the Turks were got into the City; the Bassa's told the Grand Signior, that to weaken the force of the Persian, it was necessary for him to put to the Sword all the Soldiers that were in the City: and thereupon there were above twenty thousand massacred in cold Blood. The Turks had seized upon the Capuchins Mansion, but Signior Michaël chief of the Cannoneers, got it to be restored them again. As to the Civil Government of Bagdat, there is none but a Cady, who does all, acting even the Mufti, with a Shiekelaslon or Tefterdar, who receives the Revenues of the Grand Signior. There are in it five Mosques, of which two are indifferently well built, and adorned with Duomo's covered with varnished Tiles of different colours. There are also ten Inns, all ill built, except two, which are reasonably convenient. In general, the City is ill built; there being nothing of beauty in it but the Bazars, which are all arched; else the Merchants would not be able to endure the heats. They must also be watered three or four times a day; for which office several poor people are hired upon the public charge. The City is full of Trade, but not so full as it was, when in the hands of the King of Persia: for when the Turk took it, he killed most of the richest Merchants. However there is a great confluence thither from all Parts; whither for Trade, or for Devotions sake, I cannot tell: because they that follow the Sect of Haly, do believe that Haly lived at Bagdat. Besides, all they that are desirous to go to Mecca by Land, must pass through Bagdat, where every Pilgrim is forced to pay four Piastres to the Bassa. You must take notice that there are in Bagdat two sorts of Mahometans, the first are called Rafedi's, or Heretics; the second, Observers of the Law, in all things like those at Constantinople. The Rafedi's will by no means eat or drink with a Christian, and very hardly with the rest of the Mahometans: or if they do happen to drink out of the same Cup, or to touch them, they presently wash themselves, as believing themselves unclean. The others are not so scrupulous, but eat and drink and converse with all the World. In the year 1639, after the Grand Signior had taken Bagdat, a Rafedi who was a Carrier of Water not only refused to give a Jew to drink, who desired it of him in the Marketplace, but abused him also in words. Thereupon the Jew complained to the Cady, who immediately sent for him, and caused his Borachio and his Cup to be brought along with him; when he came before him, he asked for his Cup, and gave the Jew to drink, and then made the Porter drink also out of the same Cup: After that, he ordered the Rafedi to be Bastinadoed, and this Lesson to be taught him while he was chastising, That we are all God's Creatures, as well Mahometans, as Christians and Jews. This has made them less zealous in their Superstition, though they are the chiefest part of the Inhabitants of the City. As to their Funerals, I have particularly observed, that when the Husband dies, the Wife pulls off all her Headgear, and lets her Hair fall about her Ears; then she all besmears her Face with the Soot of a Kettle, and having so done, frisks and leaps about after such a ridiculous manner, as from others would rather produce laughter than tears. All the kindred, friends and neighbours meet at the House of the deceased, and stay for the Celebration of the Funeral. At what time the Women strive to outvie one another in a thousand Apish tricks, clapping their Cheeks, yelling like mad people; and then of a sudden setting themselves to dance to the sound of two Drums, like those which the Tabor-and-Pipe-Men carry, upon which the Women beat for a quarter of an hour. Among them there is one more accustomed to this fool'ry than the rest, that fills your Ears with mournful Dinns: to which other Women make answer, by redoubling their Cries, which may be heard at a great distance. It would then be a vain thing to seek to comfort the Children of the deceased; for they seem to be so much beside themselves, that they are not in a condition to hear any thing. And they are obliged to carry themselves in that manner, unless they intent to run the reproach of not having any kindness for their Parents. When the Corpse is carried to the Grave, abundunce of poor people go before with Banners, and Crescents at the ends of Sticks, singing most dismal Dirges all the way. The Women are not to be at the Interment, who are not to go abroad but only upon Thursdays, when they go to the Sepulchers to Pray for the Dead. And because that by their Law the Husband is obliged to lie with his lawful Wife upon Thursday-night or Friday-night, upon Wednesday-morning the Women go to the ●●ths, where they perfume their Heads and Bodies with a sweet Water. They may go abroad sometimes at other seasons, when their Husbands give them leave to visit their Kindred; but then they are to be wrapped up from Head to Foot, that it is impossible for their Husbands themselves to know them if they meet 'em i'the Streets. By the way take notice, that the Persian Women, unless they be such as are very poor, would rather stay within all the days of their Lives, than go abroad without a Horse. And it is a certain sign to know a Courtesan from an honest Woman; for that the Courtesans put their Feet in the Stirup, and the honest Women only in the Stirup-leathers. The Women of Bagdat are very richly habited, after their fashions; but they are not contented to wear their Jewels about their Necks and Wrists, for they hang them like Bracelets about their Faces, and will boar holes in their Ears to put in a Ring. The Arabian Women only bore the separation between the two Nostrils, where they wear hollow Rings, as well to spare cost, as for lightness; for some are so big, that you may almost thrust your Fist through them. Beyond all this, the more to beautify themselves, they make a round Ring about their Eyes with a certain sort of Blacking: And as well Men as Women, in the Desert, put the same near their Eyes, to preserve them, as they say, from the heat of the Sun. Of Christians there are three sorts: Nestorians, who have a Church; Armenians and Jacobites, who have none, but go to the Capuchins, who administer the Sacraments to them. The Christians go in Devotion to a Chapel, about a short quarter of a League from the City, dedicated to a Saint whom they call Keder-Elias, paying a small Fee, for admission, to the Turks, who keep the Keys. Two days journey from the City stands another ruin'd Church in a pitiful Village, where they say, that St. Simon and St. Judas were both Martyred and Buried. If a Christian dyes, all the rest come to his Burial, and returning home, find a Supper prepared to welcome them; the next day they return to the Grave, and pray for the deceased; and the third day there is a Dinner for all comers and goers. Sometimes there will be a hundred and fifty persons at a Burial. They repeat the same Ceremonies for the seventh, fifteenth, thirtieth and fortieth days afterwards; having a great veneration for the Dead, for whom they pray too often. This custom of Feasting is very inconvenient for the Poor; for they being desirous to imitate the Rich, run themselves sometimes so far in Debt, that they are forced to sell their Children to the Turks to discharge themselves. There are several Jews also in Bagdat, but more that come every year in Devotion to visit the Sepulchre of the Prophet Ezekiel, which is a day and a halfs journey from the City. In short, since the taking of Bagdat by Sultan Amurat, the number of Inhabitants cannot be less than fifteen thousand Souls; which shows that the City is not peopled according to its bigness. About a day and a halfs journey from the Point of Mesopotamia, at distance almost equal between Tigris and Euphrates, there appears a vast Heap of Earth, which the people call to this day Nemrod. It stands in the midst of a wide Plain, and may be discovered a great way off. The vulgar sort believe it to be the Remains of the Tower of Babel; but there is more probability of the Arabians Opinion, who call it Agartouf, and believe it to have been built by an Arabian Prince, who always kept a Beacon at the top to assemble his Subjects together in time of War. This Heap of Earth was about three hundred Paces in circuit; but it is not easy to guests at the ancient height, the rest being fallen to ruin, but only eighteen or twenty Fathom. It is built of Brick dried in the Sun, every Brick being ten Inches square, and three thick. The Building is thus raised. Upon every row of Canes or Reeds bruised to pieces and mixed with Wheat-straw, and spread an Inch and a half thick, lie seven orders of these Bricks with a little Straw between each; then another Bed of Reeds, and six rows of Bricks; then a third with five rows, decreasing in that manner till you come to the top. The form of it seems to have been rather square than round; and in the highest part of that which remains there appears a Hole like a Window; if it were not rather an Outlet for Water, or a Hole for the Scaffolding. In short, according to the Description of Moses there is no likelihood that this should be the Remains of the ancient Tower of Babel. The Plane of the City of Bagdat, which is to be compassed, as well by Land as by Water, in two Hours. A. The Ground-Plot. B. The Fortress. C. The Gate called Maazan-capl. D. The New Bulwark. E. The Port where the Grand Signior erected his first Battery, Anno 1638. F. The Old Bulwark. G. The Gate in the Wall. H. The Old Bulwark. I. The Place where Amurat raised his second Battery, when he made the Breach, and took the City. K. The Gate in the Wall. L. The Old Bulwark. M. The Old Bulwark. N. Cara capi, or the Black Gate. O. The Old Bulwark. P. Sou-capi, or the Water-Gate. CHAP. VIII. A Continuation of the Road from Bagdat to Balsara; and of the Religion of the Christians of St. John. THE fifteenth of March we hired a Bark from Bagdat to Balsara. And we observed, that a little beyond Bagdat the River Tigris divides itself into two Arms; the one which runs through the ancient Chaldea, the other keeps its course toward the Point of Mesopotamia; these two Arms making a large Island, crossed by several small Channels. When we came to the place where Tigris divides itself, we beheld as it were the compass of a City that might have formerly been a large League in circuit. There are some of the Walls yet standing, upon which six Coaches may go abreast. They are made of burnt Brick, every Brick being ten Foot square, and three thick. The Chronicles of the Country say, that these were the Ruins of the ancient Babylon. We followed that Arm of Tigris that runs along the Coast of Chaldea; for fear of falling into the hands of the Arabs, who were then at War with the Bassa of Babylon, denying to pay the ordinary Tribute to the Grand Signior. We were ten days upon the Water in our passage from Bagdat to Balsara, and lay every night upon the Water, dressing our Victuals in the Bark. For when we came to any Villages, we sent our Servants ashore to buy Provisions, which we had very cheap. Now the Towns we met with upon the Shoar were these. Amurat, where there stood a Fort of Brick baked in the Sun; Mansoury, a great Town; Magar, Gazer, and Gorno. At this last place Euphrates and Tigris meet together: where are also three Castles to be seen; one upon the Point where the two Rivers meet, which is the strongest, and where the Son of the Prince of Balsara then commanded; the second upon Chaldea side; and the third upon Arabia side. Though the Customs be there exactly demanded, and paid, yet they never search any person. The Tides come up to that place: so that having but fifteen Leagues to Balsara, we got thither in seven hours, having both Wind and Tide. All the Country between Bagdat and Balsara is intercut and parted by Dikes, like the Low Countries; the two Cities lying a hundred and sixty Leagues one from the other. It is one of the best countries in the possession of the Grand Signior, being stored with large Meadows and excellent Pasturage, where are bred infinite numbers of Beasts, especially Mares and Bufalo's. The Female Bufalo's go twelve Months, and yield so much milk, that there are some which will give two and twenty Pints. And there is so large a quantity of Butter made, that in some Villages upon the Tigris, we saw sometimes five and twenty, sometimes twenty Barks laden with Butter, which the people sell all along the Gulf of Persia, as well upon Arabia, as Persia side. Half the way between Bagdat and Balsara, we perceived several Pavilions set up in the Meadows along by the side of the River. Upon enquiry we heard that the Tefterdar was come from Constantinople to gather the Grand Signor's duty's. For from Bagdat to Gorno, for all the Bufalo's as well Male as Female, there is to be paid a Piastre and a quarter for every head once a year; which is worth yearly to the Grand Signior a hundred and fourscore thousand Piastres. Every Mare also pays two Piastres, every Sheep ten Sous; which if the Country people were not very cunning, would be worth fifty thousand Piastres more than it is. After this we came to Gorno, a Fortress upon the point where the two Rivers meet, besides two other small Castles upon each side, so that there is no passing without leave. Upon the Fort of Gorno which was well furnished with Cannon, we saw the Prince of Balsara's Son, who was Governor of the Fort. And here it is that the Account of the Customs is taken. But though they are very exact in searching the Barks, they are very civil, for they search no body. However lest any Goods should be hid between the Planks of the Ships, over which they generally throw Faggots and Canes, the Customers bring a great Piercer, with which they bore the sides of the Bark quite through for the discovery of concealed Goods. The Goods are Registered at Gorno, but the Customs are always paid at Balsara, according to the account given from the Fort. The same day entering into the Channel that is cut out of Euphrates to Balsara, we met the chief of the Holland Factory taking his pleasure in a Boat covered with Scarlet, who took me with him to Balsara. Balsara stands upon the side of Arabia deserta, two Leagues from the Ruins of a City, which was formerly called Teredon, and anciently stood in the Desert, to which the Water was formerly conveyed out of Euphrates in a Brick Channel still to be seen. By the Ruins it appears to have been a great City, from whence the Arabians fetch away the Bricks and sell them at Balsara. The City of Balsara is half a League from Euphrates, which the Arabians in their Language call Shetel-areb, or the River of Araebia. The Inhabitants of the City have made a Channel to it about half a League long, which bears Vessels of 150 Tun; at the end whereof stands a Fort, so that no Vessel can get into the Fort without leave. The Sea is above fifteen Leagues off, but the Tide comes up to the Channel, and fills the River other fifteen Leagues upward beyond Gorno. The Country is so low, that were it not for a Dam that runs along the Seashore, it would often be in danger of being drowned. The Dam is above a League in length, and built all of Freestone so strong, that the fury of the waves can do them no injury, though it lie open to a Boisterous Sea. It is not above a hundred years since Balsara belonged to the Arabians of the Desert, and had no commerce with the Nations of Europe. For those people were contented to eat their own Dates, having so great a quantity, that they only live upon them. 'Tis the same thing all along the Gulf on each side; for from Balsara to the River Indus for above six hundred Leagues together, and all along the Coast of Arabia to Mascaté, the poor sort of people know not what it is to eat Rice, but live upon Dates and Saltfish dried in the wind. The Cows eat no Grass, and though they go abroad in the fields, they find little or nothing among the bushes which is proper for them to eat. But every Morning before they drive them to the Field, and when they return home, they give them heads of fish and Date-nuts boiled together. The Turks having had War with the Arabians took Balsara; and yet because the Arabians always hovered about the Town, and made booty of all they could lay their hands on, they were forced to come to an agreement with them, that the Arabs should quietly enjoy all the Desert till within a League of the City; and that the Turks should remain peaceable Masters of the City, where they have a Bassa for Governor. But this Treaty endured not long; for in the middle of the City there is a Citadel, called Aushel Bassa, or the Bassa's Court, which the Turks built; so that the Garrison being Turks and the Inhabitants Arabians, who could not endure to be curbed, they ofttimes quarrelled with the Turks and came to blows. Thereupon the Arabians of the Desert came to the relief of the Citizens and besieged the Bassa in the Fortress. At length because there could be no such agreement made, but that one party or other took an occasion presently to break it, there was one Bassa whose name was Aiud, who after many contests and revolts which had almost tired him, resolved to rid himself of the trouble, and sold his Government for forty thousand Piastres to a rich Lord in the Country, who presently raised a sufficient number of Soldiers to keep the people in awe. This great man took upon him the name of Efrasias' Bassa, being the Grandfather of Hussen Bassa, who was Governor at the time when I passed through before. This Efrasias threw off the Turkish voak, and took upon him the title of Prince of Balsara. As for the Bassa that sold his Government, he no sooner arrived at Constantinople, but he was strangled. But after Amurath had taken Bagdat, the Prince of Balsara was glad to feed him continually with Presents that chief consisted in Horses, which are very beautiful in that Country. The Great Sha-Abas having taken Ormus, sent a powerful Army under the Command of Iman-Kouli-Kan Governor of Shiras, to take in Balsara. Whereupon the Prince finding himself too weak to resist so great a Power, made an agreement with the Desert Arabians to break down the Dam that stops the Sea. Which being performed, in came the Sea tumbling fifteen Leagues to Balsara, and four Leagues beyond it, which constrained the Persians, surrounded with water, and hearing at the same time of the death of Sha-Abas, to raise their Siege. Since that inundation, several Lands and Gardens have been utterly barren, or have born very little, by reason of the Salt which the Sea has left behind. The Prince of Balsara has entered into Leagues with several strange Nations, so that whencesoever you come, you may be welcome. There is so much liberty and so good order in the City, that you may walk all night long in the Streets without molestation. The Hollanders bring Spices thither every year. The English carry Pepper and some few Cloves; but the Portugals have no Trade at all thither. The Indians bring Calicuts, Indigo, and all sorts of Merchandise. In short, there are Merchants of all Country's, from Constantinople, Smyrna, Aleppo, Damascus, Cairo, and other parts of Turkey, to buy such Merchandizes as come from the Indies, with which they lad the young Camels which they buy in that place; for thither the Arabians bring them to put them to sale. They that come from Diarbequir, Moussul, Bagdat, Mesopotamia, and Assyria, send their Merchandizes up the Tigris by Water, but with great trouble and expense. In regard the Boats are to be towed by men, that cannot go above two Leagues and a half in a day, and against the Wind they cannot stir, which makes them ofttimes between Balsara and Bagdat to be above sixty days, nay there have been some that have been three months upon the Water. The Customs of Balsara amount to five in the hundred, but generally you have some favour showed you, either by the Customer or the Prince himself, that the Merchant does not really pay above four in the hundred. The Prince of Balsara is so good a Husband, that he lays up three millions of Livers in a year. His chiefest Revenue is in four things, Money, Horses, Camels, and Date-trees; but in the last consists his chiefest wealth. For all the Country from the meeting of the two Rivers to the Sea, for the space of thirty Leagues together, is all covered with these Trees; nor does any one dare to touch a Date, till he has paid for every Tree three fourth's of a Larin, or nine Sous French. The profit which the Prince makes upon money, proceeds from this, that the Merchants that come from abroad are obliged to carry their Reals to his Mint, where they are Coined and converted into Larins, which is worth to him eight in the hundred. As for his Horses, there is no place in the world, where there are more fit for travel, or handsomer shaped; for there are some that will travel thirty hours together and never draw bit, especially the Mares. But to return to the Palm-trees it is worth observation, that there is more Art to bring up those Trees than any other. The Natives dig a hole in the ground, wherein they heap a great quantity of Date-nuts in a Pyramidical form, the top whereof ends in one single Nut, which being covered with Earth produces the Palmtree. Most of the people of the Country do say, that in regard there is among the Palm-trees the distinction of Male and Female, that therefore they must be planted one by another, for that otherwise the Female Tree will bear no Fruit. But others affirm that nicety to be unnecessary; and that it suffices, when the Male is in Blossom to take a Flower from the Male, and put it into the Heart of the Female a little above the Stem; for unless they should do so, all the Fruit would fall off before it came to maturity. There is at Balsara a Cady that administers Justice, and who is established by the authority of the Prince that commands there. In the City are also three sorts of Christians, Jacobites, Nestorians, and Christians of St. John. There is also a House of Italian Carmelites; and there was a House of Portugal Austin-Friars, but they have forsaken the Town ever since their Countrymen quitted the Trade. The Christians of St. John are very numerous at Balsara, and the Villages thereabouts; who anciently lived by the River of Jordan, where St. John Baptised; and from whom they took their Name. But since the time that Mahomet conquered Palestine, though Mahomet formerly gave them his Hand and his Letters of Privilege that they should not be molested, nevertheless they that succeeded the false Prophet resolved to extirpate them all; to which purpose they ruined their Churches, burnt their Books, and exercised all manner of cruelties upon their Persons: which obliged them to retire into Mesopotamia and Chaldea, and for some time they were under the Patriarch of Babylon, from whom they separated about a hundred and sixty years ago. Then they removed into Persia and Arabia, and the Towns round about Balsara; as Souter, Despoul, Rumez, Bitoum, Mono, Endecan, Calufabat, Aveza, Dega, Dorech, Masquel, Gumar, Carianous, Balsara, Onezer, Zech, Loza. Nor do they inhabit City or Village by which there does not run a River. And many of their Bishops have assured me, that the Christians in all the foregoing places make above five and twenty thousand Families. There are some among them who are Merchants; but the most part of them are Tradesmen, especially Goldsmiths, Joiner's, and Lock-smiths. Their Creed is full of fables and foul errors. The Persians and Arabians call them Sabbi, a People that have forsaken their own Religion, to take up a new one. In their own Language they call themselves Mendai Jahia, or Disciples of St. John, from whom, as they ascertain us, they have received their Faith, their Books, and their Traditions. Every year they celebrate a Feast for about five days, during which time they go in Troops to their Bishops, who Baptise them according to the Baptism of St. John. They never Baptise but in Rivers, and only upon Sundays. But before they go to the River they carry the Infant to Church, where there is a Bishop who reads certain Prayers over the Head of the Child; from thence they carry the Child to the River, with a Train of Men and Women, who together with the Bishop go up to the knees in Water. Then the Bishop reads again certain Prayers out of a Book which he holds in his Hand, which done he sprinkles the Infant three times, saying, Beesmebrad er-Rabi, Kaddemin, Akreri, Menhal el jennet Alli Koulli Kralek; or, In the Name of the Lord, first and last of the World and of Paradise, the high Creator of all things. After that, the Bishop reads something again in his Book, while the Godfather plunges the Child all over in the Water; after which they go all to the Parents House to feast. If any tax their Baptism for insufficient, in regard the Three Persons of the Divinity are not named therein, they can make no rational defence for themselves. Nor have they any knowledge of the Mystery of the Holy Trinity, only they say that Christ is the Spirit and Word of the Eternal Father. They are so blind as to believe the Angel Gabriel to be the Son of God, begotten upon Light; yet will not believe the Eternal Generation of Christ, as God. Yet they confess he became Man, to free us from the Punishment of Sin: and that he was conceived in the womb of a Virgin without the knowledge of Man, by means of the Water of a certain Fountain which she drank of. They believe he was crucified by the Jews; that he risen the third day; and that his Soul ascending up to Heaven, his Body remained on Earth. But like the Mahometans they corrupt their Faith, by saying, that Christ vanished when the Jews came to take him, and that he deluded their cruelty with his Shadow. In the Eucharist they make use of Meal or Flower, kneaded up with Wine and Oil: For, say they, the Body of Christ being composed of the two principal parts; Flesh and Blood, the Flower and the Wine do most perfectly represent them; besides, that Christ at his Supper made use of Wine only, and not of Water. They add Oil, to signify the benefit we receive by his favour of the Sacrament, and to put us in mind of our Love and Charity towards God and our Neighbour. To make this Wine, they take Grapes dried in the Sun, which they call in their Language Zebibes, and casting Water upon them, let them steep for so long a time. The same Wine they use for the Consecration of the Cup. They make use of Raisins, in regard they are more easy to be had than Wine; the Persians, especially the Arabians, under whose Government they live, not permitting, nor indeed allowing them the use of it. Of all people that follow the Law of Mahomet, there are none so opposite to other Religions, as these Persians and Arabians about Balsara. The words of their Consecration, are no other than certain long Prayers, which they make to praise and thank God, at the same time blessing the Bread and Wine, never making mention of his Body and Blood; which they say is not at all necessary, because God knows their intentions. After all the Ceremonies are ended, the Priest takes the Bread, and having eaten some of it, distributes the rest to the People. As to their Bishops and Priests, when any one dies, who has a Son, they choose him in his place; and if he have no Son, they take the next akin that is most capable and best instructed in their Religion. They that make the Election, say several Prayers over him that is elected. If he be a Bishop, after he is received, and that he go about to Ordain others, he ought to fast six days, during which time he continually repeats certain Prayers over him that is to be ordained Priest, who also for his part fasts and prays all the said time. And whereas I say the Father succeeds the Son, it is to be observed, that among the Christians in those Parts, both Bishops and Priests marry, as do the rest of the people; only if their first Wife die, they cannot marry another unless she be a Virgin. Moreover, they that are admitted to Ecclesiastical Functions, must be of the race of Bishops or Priests; and their Mothers must have been always Virgins when they were married. All their Bishops and Priests wear their Hair long, and a little Cross wrought with a Needle. When there is any Wedding to be, the kindred and persons invited go together with the Bridegroom, to the House where the Bride lives. Thither comes the Bishop also, and approaching the Bride, who is sitting under a Canopy; he asks her if she be a Virgin. If she answer that she is so, he makes her confirm it by an Oath. After which he returns to the Guests, and sends his Wife with some other skilful Women to make an inspection. If they find her to be a Virgin, the Bishop's Wife returns and makes Oath of it; and then they all go to the River, where the Bishop re-baptizes the Couple to be married. Then they return toward the House, and making a stop before they come quite near it, the Bridegroom takes the Bride by the Hand, and leads her seven times from the Company to the House, the Bishop following them every time, and reading certain Prayers. After that they go into the House, and the Bride and Bridegroom place themselves under the Canopy, where they set their Shoulders one against another, and the Bishop reads again, causing them to lay their Heads together three times. Then opening a Book of Divination, and looking for the most fortunate day to consummate the Marriage, he tells them of it. But if the Bishop's Wife do not find the Bride to be a Virgin, the Bishop can proceed no farther, so that if the young Man have still a mind, he must go to some meaner Priest to perform the Ceremony. Which is the reason that the people take it for a great dishonour to be married by any other than the Bishops; for when a Priest marries, 'tis an infallible sign that the Bride was not Virgin. The Priests also, in regard they take it to be a great Sin for a Woman to marry not being a Virgin, they never marry any such but by constraint, and to avoid ensuing inconveniencies; for sometimes in despite they will turn Mahometans. The reason of the Inspection is, that the Husbands may not be deceived, and to keep the young Girls in awe. As to what they believe touching the Creation of the World, they say, that the Angel Gabriel undertrking to create the World according to the command which God gave him, took along with him three hundred thirty-six thousand Demons, and made the earth so fertile, that it was but to Sow in the Morning and Reap at Night. That the same Angel taught Adam to Plant and Sow, and all other necessary Sciences. Moreover that the same Angel made the seven lower Spheres, the least whereof reaches to the Centre of the World, in the same manner as the Heavens do, all contrived one within another. That all these Spheres are of different Metals, the first next the Centre is of Iron, the second of Lead, the third of Brass, the fourth of Latin, the fifth of Silver, the sixth of Gold, and the seventh of Earth. The seventh is that which contains all the rest, and is the chiefest of all, as being the most fruitful and profitable to Man, and the most proper to preserve Mankind, whereas the rest seem rather to be framed for its destruction. They believe that over every Heaven there is Water, whence they conclude that the Sun swims in a Ship upon that Water, and that the Mast of his Ship is a Cross, and that there are a great number of Boys and Servants to guide the Ships of the Sun and Moon. Besides, they have the Picture of a Bark, which they say belonged to the Angel Becan, whom God sends to visit the Sun and Moon, to see whither they move right or no, and keep close to their duty. In reference to the other World and life to come, they believe there is no other World, but where Angels and Devils, the Souls of good and bad reside. That in that World there are Cities, Houses, and Churches, and that the Evil Spirits have also Churches, where they pray, singing and rejoicing upon Instruments, and Feasting as in this World. That when any one lies at the point of death, three hundred and sixty Demons come and carry his Soul to a place full of Serpents, Dogs, Lions, Tigers, and Devils; who, if it be the Soul of a wicked man, tear it in pieces; but being the Soul of a just man, it creeps under the bellies of those Creatures into the presence of God, who sits in his seat of Majesty to judge the World. That there are Angels also that weigh the Souls of Men in a Balance, who being thought worthy, are admitted immediately into Glory. That the Angels and Devils are Male and Female, and beget Children. That the Angel Gabriel is the Son of God engendered upon Light, and that he has a Daughter called Souret who has two Sons. That the Angel Gabriel has several Legions of Demons under him, who are instead of Soldiers, and others that are his Officers of justice, whom he sends from Town to Town, and from City to City, to punish the wicked. In reference to Saints, they hold that Christ left twelve Apostles to Preach to the Nations. That the Virgin Mary is not dead, but that she lives somewhere in the World, though there be no person that can tell where she is. That next to her St. John is the chiefest Saint in Heaven, and next to them Zacharias and Elizabeth, of whom they recount several miracles and Apocryphal tales. For they believe that they two begat St. John only by embracing; that when he came to be of age they Married him, and that he had four Sons which he begat upon the waters of Jordan. That when St. John desired a Son, he prayed to God, who drew him one out of the water; so that St. John had no more to do with his Wife but only to give her the Child to bring up. That he died a natural death, but that he commanded his Disciples to Crucify him after his death, that he might be like Christ. Lastly, that he died in the City of Fuster, and that he was buried in a Crystal Tomb, brought by miracle to the City, and that this Sepulchre was in a certain House near the River Jordan. They highly honour the Cross, and sign themselves with it; but they are very careful of letting the Turks observe them; and during their Ceremonies, they set a Watch at their Church doors for fear the Turks should enter, and lay some unjust Fine upon them. When they have adored the Cross, they take it in two pieces, which they never put together again, till their Service rebegins. The reason why they so adore the Cross is drawn out of a Book which they have, Entitled The Divan. Where it is written that every day early in the Morning, the Angels take the Cross and put it in the middle of the Sun, which receives his light from it, as the Moon also doth hers. They add, that in the same Book are Pictured two Ships, one of which is named the Sun, the other the Moon; and tha● in every one of these Ships there is a Cross full of Bells: And moreover, that if there were not a Cross in those two Ships, the Sun and Moon would be deprived of Light, and the Ships would suffer Shipwreck. Their chief Festivals are three. The one in Winter, that lasts three days, in memory of our first Parent and the Creation of the World. The other in the Month of August, that also lasts three days, which is called the Feast of St. John. The third which lasts five days in June, during which time they are all rebaptised. They observe Sunday, doing no work upon that day. They neither Fast nor do any penance. They have no Canonical Books, but a great number of others that treat of nothing but Witchcraft, in which they believe their Priests to be very crafty, and that the Devils are at their beck. They hold all Women to be unclean, and that it is not at all available for them to come to the Church. They have one Ceremony, which they call the Ceremony of the Hen, of which they make great Account, which is not lawful for any to perform but a Priest Born of a Virgin at the time of her Marriage. When a hen is to be killed, the Priest puts off his ordinary habit, and puts on a Linen Cloth, girding his waste with a second, and throwing a third about his shoulders like a Stole. Then he takes the Fowl, and plunges it in the water to make it clean; after which he turns toward the East and cuts off the head, holding the Body in his hand till it has bled out all the blood. While the Hen bleeds, with his Eyes lifted up to Heaven, as if he were in an ecstasy, he repeats in his own Language these words following: In the name of God, may this flesh be profitable to all that eat of it? They observe the same ceremony when they kill Sheep. For first, they cleanse the place very carefully where the Sheep is to be killed, washing it with water, and strewing it with boughs, nor is the number of people small that assists at this Ceremony, as if it were at some solemn Sacrifice. If you ask them why it is not lawful for the Laity to kill Fowls? They answer that it is no more lawful for them to kill than to consecrate them; and that is all the reason which they bring. They eat of nothing dressed by the Turks; and if a Turk ask them for drink, so soon as he has drank, they break the Cup. And to make the Turks more hateful, they Picture Mahomet like a great Giant, shut up in Prison in Hell with four more of his Parents; and they say, that all the Turks are carried into the same place full of wild Beasts to be there devoured. They pretend all to Salvation. For say they, after the Angel Gabriel had framed the World by the command of God, he thus discoursed him. Lord God, said he, behold I have built the World as thou didst command me. It has put me to a great deal of trouble, and my Brethren also, to raise such high Mountains that seem to sustain Heaven. And who indeed was able to make way for Rivers through Mountains without vast labour, and to give every thing its proper place? Moreover, great God, by the aid of thy powerful Arm, we have brought the World to so much perfection, that men cannot think upon any thing needful for them, which is not to be found therein. But instead of that satisfaction which I ought to have for having accomplished so great a work, I find no reason but to be altogether grieved. When God demanding the cause, the Angel Gabriel answered: My God and Father, I will tell you what afflicts me; because that after the making of the World as I have done, I foresee that there will come into it a prodigious number of Jews, Turks, Idolaters, and other Infidels, Enemies of your Name, who will be unworthy to eat and enjoy the Fruits of our Labours. To whom God thus replied: Never grieve, my Son, there shall live in this World which thou hast built, certain Christians of St. John who shall be my friends, and shall be all saved. Upon which the Angel admiring how that should be! What, said he, will there not be several Sinners among those Christians, and by consequence will not they be your Enemies? To whom God thus concluded: That at the day of Judgement the Good should Pray for the Wicked, and by that means they should be all forgiven, and obtain Salvation. These Christians have a strange Antipathy against the Blue Colour called Indigo, which they will not so much as touch. For certain Jews dreaming that their Law should be abolished by St. John, told it their Countrymen. Which they understanding, and seeing that St. John prepared to Baptise Christ, in a great rage, fetched a vast quantity of Indigo, which they call Nill in their Language, and fling it into Jordan. They add also that those waters continued unclean for some time, and had hindered the Baptism of Christ, had not God sent his Angels with a large Vessel of water, which he caused them to fill out of Jordan before the Jews had defiled it with Indigo; for which reason God particularly Cursed that Colour. CHAP. IX. A Continuation of the Road from Balsara to Ormus. THe tenth of April we set out from Balsara for Bander-Congo, for which passage we hired a Terrade or a Bark for the purpose; for they which are laden with Dates are generally so overcharged, that if a Storm rises, they are in danger of being overset. The River of Balsara is very dangerous, by reason of the Sands which also lie up and down the Persian Gulf, and are very prejudicial to Navigation in that place. On both sides the Gulf that separates Persia from Arabia the Happy, live a sort of poor people that follow no other Trade than fishing; so poor, that when they bring fish to your Vessel, they require nothing for it but Rice; and not the best neither, but such course stuff as we feed our Hens and Pigs withal. I gave them a Sack of thirty or forty pounds, and bid them make merry with it, but they told me, they must be careful how they spent such Rice as that, unless it were for their Sick, or at their Weddings; so that if the rest of Arabia the Happy be like that, assuredly 'tis rather a most unfortunate Country. There are several Isles in the Persian Gulf, but the chiefest of all is the Isle of Baharen, where they fish for Pearls, of which I have spoken in its proper place. Near to the place where Euphrates falls from Balsarae into the Sea, there is a little Island, where the Barks generally come to an Anchor, in expectation of the wind. There we stayed four days, whence to Bandar-Congo it is fourteen days Sail, and we got thither the twenty-third of April. This place would be a far better habitation for the Merchants than Ormus, where it is very unwholesome and dangerous to live. But that which hinders the Trade from Bandar-Congo, is because the Road to Lar is so bad, by reason of the want of Water, and craggy narrow ways, which only Camels can endure; but from Ormus to Lar the way is tolerable. We stayed at Bandar-Congo two days, where there is a Portugais Factor, who receives one half of the Customs by agreement with the King of Persia. By the way take notice, that they who will go by Water from Ormus to Balsara, must take the Natives for their Pilots, and be continually sounding besides. The thirtieth, we hired a Vessel for Bander-Abassi, and after three or four hours Sailing, we put into a Village upon the Seaside, in the Island of Keckmishe. Keckmishe is an Island three Leagues about, and about five or six from Ormus. It exceeds in Fertility all the Islands of the East, that produce neither Wheat nor Barley; but at Keckmishe is a Magazine of both, without which Ormus would hardly subsist, in regard it furnishes that City with most of their Provision for their Horses. There is in the Island a Spring of good Water, for the preservation of which, the Persians have built a Fort, lest the Portugals when they held Ormus, should get it into their Possession. In 1641. and 1642. the Hollanders falling out with the King of Persia about their Silk Trade, besieged this Island. For the Ambassadors of the Duke of Holstein coming into Persia, the Dutch were jealous that they came to fetch away all the Silk; and thereupon enhanced the Market from forty-two to fifty Tomans. When the Ambassadors were gone, the Dutch would pay no more than forty-four, which was two Tomans more than they were used to do. The King nettled that they would not stand to their words, forbidden that they should make sale of their Goods till they had paid their Customs, from which till that time they were exempted. Thereupon the Hollanders besieged the Fortress of Keckmishe, but the Heats were so intolerable, that they were forced to quit their design with great loss of their Men; and at length by great Presents to the chief Courtiers, they obtained to pay no more than forty-six Tomans. Larec is an Island nearer to Ormus than Keckmishe, well inhabited, and so stored with Stags and Hinds, that in one day we killed five and forty. From Keckmishe we Sailed for Ormus, where we arrived the first of May. I had put my choicest Goods in a Chest directed for the Hollaad Commander at Ormus, by which means I got the Custom free. The Persian Gulf is the most dangerous Gulf I know, by reason of the shallowness and sharp Promontories that point out into the Sea; and therefore the best way is to take a Pilot at Ormus or Bander-Congo, and the most proper Pilots are the Fishermen, who are only skilled in that Sea and no farther. The Soil about the Persian Gulf is dry Sand and without Water, so that it is impossible to Travel by Land from Ormus to Balsara. The Merchants would be glad to find a way through the Coast of Arabia to get to Mascaté, whence there might a cut be made to Sindi, Diu, or Surat, which are the three chief Ports of India. During the difference between the King of Persia and the Hollanders, the Emir of Vodana an Arabian Prince; offered to show them an easy Road from Mascaté to Balsara. But the Hollanders fearing to break with the King of Persia, where they vended above fifteen or sixteen hundred thousand pounds of their Pepper, and paid therewith for all their Silk, did not think it worth their while to quit Ormus to settle themselves at Mascaté. Had it been yielded to, the way had been from Balsara to Elcatif a Sea-Town in Arabia the Happy, where there is a Fishery for Pearls that belongs to the Emir of Elcatif. From Elcatif to Mascalat, another City of Arabia, and the residence of another Emir. From Mascalat to Vodana, a good handsome City seated upon the meeting of two little Rivers that carry Barks to the Sea, and run together by the single name of Moyesur. The Soil about Vodana produces no Corn, and very little Rice; but it abounds in Fruits, especially Prunes and Quinces, which are not so sour as ours, and are eaten by the Natives as Pears. There are extraordinary good Melons and great Store of Grapes, of which the Jews, who inhabit the best part of the City, are permitted to make Wine. From Vodana to the Gulf, the County of each side is full of Palm-Trees, the Dates being the Food of the common people, who have not Money to buy either Corn or Rice. From Vodana to Mascatè it is but fifteen Leagues, though by the Maps, which are Erroneous, the way is described to be much longer. Being at Ormus, the Emir of Vodana showed me a Pearl transparent and perfectly round, that weighed seventeen Abas, or fourteen Carats and seven Eights; for in all the Pearl Fisheries of the East they use no other weights but Abas, which make seven Eights of a Carat. I offered him 300000 Piastres, or 60000 Roupies for the same Pearl, but the Emir refused to take it, telling me that he had been offered more Money for it by several Princes of Asia, who had sent to him to buy it, but that he was resolved never to part with it. CHAP. X. Of the Author's first Voyage, and the adventures of four Frenchmen. I Departed out of Paris in the year 1657, and Embarked at Marseilles for Ligorn. We set Sail from Ligorn seven Vessels together, two bound for Venice, one for Constantinople, one for Aleppo, and three for Smyrna, in one of which being a Dutch Vessel I Embarked. But before I leave Smyrna, to begin my Journey from Tauris, give me leave to relate the story of four Frenchmen, the various accidents whereof will much enlighten the Reader into the Customs and Manners, as well of the Turks as Persians. While I stayed the departure of the Caravan, which could not be ready in five or six Weeks, as also upon the advice of a rich Jew and a Merchant of Jewels at Constantinople, who had several Pearls to sell, as well for their beauty as their bigness, the best Commodity a man can carry to the Indies, I sent to Constantinople a person that I carried along with me, one that was well versed in that sort of Commodity. There was a Norman Gentleman named the Reville then at Smyrna, who would needs accompany my Factor, so that they went both together in a Vessel that carried the French Ambassador and his Lady to Constantinople. This Gentleman had two or three thousand Ducats in his Purse, wanting neither wit nor courage, besides a good presence; but perhaps he was more hasty in his proceed than the reservedness of that Country required. He had left the Service of the Muscovites, thinking to find an employment in the Service of the Venetians at Candy; but failing in his expectations, he resolved to travel into Persia. While he was at Constantinople, the Jews, who lay hold upon all opportunities of gain, soon found out my Factor; and besides the Pearls which he desired to see, they showed him several other rich Stones to try whether they could draw him in; for he had refused the Pearls because they held them at too high a Rate. The Norman Gentleman fell into their acquaintance; and picking out the richest, told him, that being resolved for the Indies, he had a mind to lay out four thousand Ducats in Pearls. He added also, that he would pay him half in Money, half in Goods, and at the same time showed the Jew two thousand Ducats, which the Jew had already devoured with his eyes. Some four days after, the Jew brought the Gentleman four fair Pearls with some Emeralds; and you may be sure they easily agreed upon the price, in regard the Gentleman had a design to put a trick upon the Jew. Thereupon he shows his Ducats a second time, which the Jew, who thought he had a Cully, presently told out as his own. After that the Jew desiring to see the Goods, which made up the other part of the payment, the Gentleman without any more ado told him, that all the Merchandise which he had to pay him, was a good strong Quartan Ague which had held him a long time, and indeed such a one, that he could not possibly meet with a better, but that he would not over-rate it, in regard he asked but two thousand Ducats for it. The Jew who was rich and in great credit at Court, was so incensed at his raillery, that he had like to have made a wicked stir about it. For as he had heard him say, that the Gentleman was going into the Indies and Persia, he might have easily caused him to have been apprehended for a Spy. But in regard the Jews can do nothing in point of Trade without the assistance of the French Merchants, he advised with some of them, who persuaded him that it was an Act of folly, which it better became him to excuse, and desired him to take his Goods again, and put up the business; which with much ado they persuaded him to condescend to. The Gentleman fearing least the Jews underhand should do him a private mischief, stole away with what speed he could, and returned to Smyrna. De Reville being thus returned to Smyrna, put himself into an Almadjer, which is a small Vessel of War, that generally touches at Chio and Rhodes, being bound for Cyprus, from whence there is always some convenience or other to get to Alexandretta. From thence he went to Aleppo; and while he stayed there he met with two French men, the one whose name was Neret, the other Hautin, who was an Accountant. They had four wooden Chests full of false Stones ready set, by which they flattered themselves to be great gainers in Persia. They went from Marseilles to Said, from Said to Damas', hearing that there was an opportunity to Travel to Bagdat with the Topigi-Bashi. This Topigi-Bashi or chief of the Engineers, was he that assisted Amurath in the taking of Bagdat; in recompense whereof the Grand Signior gave him a Timar, or Lordship in Damas' worth four thousand Crowns a year. Now it was his custom every year to visit Bagdat, and to stay there during the Season, that there was any probability of the King of Persia's besieging it; which Season not lasting above three or four Months, when that was over, he returned to Damas. He usually had about thirty Horse with him, with which he never made it above eighteen or twenty days, taking the shortest cut directly through the Desert, where the Arabs are commanded to bring him Victuals upon the Road. And he is willing at any time when he has this opportunity, to conduct the Franks that desire it that way, in regard they are never ungrateful to him for it. These two Franks therefore having desired that they might be taken into his Company, the Topigi-Bashi readily consented, provided they could stay till he went, which would not be till two or three Months; with which answer they were well satisfied. But the two Franks had not stayed at Damas' above seven or eight days but they fell acquainted with a Spahi, a Renegado of Marseilles, who proffered to carry them through the Road of Mesopotamia, so that they should be at Ispahan before the Topigi-Bashi set out from Damas. Thereupon they privately departed out of Damas' without acquainting the Topigi-Bashi, who understanding they were gone after the courtesy he had offered them, was so enraged at their uncivility, that he sent two of his Arabian Servants directly through the Wilderness to the Bassa of Bagdat, to give him advice of two Franks that were to pass that way; who were most certainly Spies, describing them withal from head to foot. In the mean while the two Franks being arrived at Ourfa, the Spahi, as he had contrived his own design at Damas', goes to the Bassa of Ourfa, and informs him that he had conducted thither two Franks, who could be no other than Spies. Thereupon the Bassa seized upon them and all their Goods, among the rest he laid his paws upon seven hundred Piastres, of which the Spahi no doubt had his share. And this may serve for instruction to Travellers to have a care how and with whom they Travel in Turkey. While the two French men were in hold at Ourfa by one sort of Treachery, the Norman Gentleman and his Companion arrived at Bagdat. But they had no sooner set their feet upon the shore, when the Bassa verily believing them to be the persons, of whom the Topigi-Bashi had given him notice, caused them to be brought before him, and seized upon their Goods and Letters, of which they had several for the Consul of Aleppo, and other rich Merchants for Persia. The Bassa sent for the Capuchins to read those Letters, but not believing them, he sent for a Sicilian Physician which he had in his Service, and his Treasurer who had been a Slave taken in Candy. But neither Physician, Treasurer, nor Capuchins would interpret any thing in prejudice of the French men; yet all that could not preserve them from being shut up in a Stable full of dung, and from being threatened to be Shot out of a Cannon's mouth if they would not confess the truth. Thereupon the Capuchins and the Cadi begged him to suspend his Sentence till the Arrival of the chief of the Cannoneers, to which he readily consented. When the Topigi-Bashi came, the Bassa commanded the Prisoners to be brought before him. But when the Topigi-Bashi denied them to be the persons, the Bassa grew into such a rage, that he no less reproached the Topigi-Bashi for Treachery, than he had accused the others. Which so incensed the Topigi-Bashi on the other side, that he never left till he had obtained the release of the two French men; yet not so, but that the Bassa would have his due; so that Reville was forced to leave some of his Ducats behind which the Jew should have had. But now to return to Smyrna where I expected the Caravan for some time in order to my Journey into Persia. Every thing being provided, we set forward in the Road for Tauris, which I have at large described, nor was there any thing worthy observation all the way. I will only take notice, that when we departed from Tocat, in regard the heat was so extreme, we left the common Road toward the North, and took the way through the Mountains, where there is always a fresh Breeze and store of shady Lanes. In many of which high Mountains we met with Snow, and abundance of excellent Sorrel; and upon the tops of some of those Mountains, we met with several sorts of shells, as it had been upon the Sea shore, which is very extraordinary. From Erzerom we went to Cars; from Cars we came to Erivan, The Can was not there then, being retired during the heat into the Mountains, a days Journey from the City. His Lieutenant telling me that I could not well pass farther without paying my duty to the Can; I followed his advice, and found him in his Tent in a fair Dale, where there was a great quantity of Snow: and where when it began to melt, appeared several beautiful Flowers, so that Summer and Winter seemed to lodge both in the same place. The Can entertained both me and all my Company most nobly for ten days. I drove also a small Trade with him. For I durst not show him the rarities I had, being designed for the King. For as in India, so in Persia, neither will the King look upon any thing which his Subjects have seen before, nor will the Subject buy any thing which the King has seen, it being an affront to present any thing to the King which he had formerly viewed, and the Subject buys nothing rare but what he intends to present. Being past Erivan you may leave your Caravan when you please, by reason of the security of the Roads in Persia. And indeed I intended to have visited the Can of Gengéa, but finding the Road so full of Rocks and Precipices, where a man was continually in danger of breaking his Neck, I turned my Horse's head and met the Caravan at Nacksivan in the Road to Tauris. From Tauris to Ispahan I met with nothing worthy observation. When I came to the Court I was well received by the King, and I sold him as many Jewels and other Goods of great value, as came to sixty-two thousand Crowns. But of this more in another place. THE THIRD BOOK OF THE PERSIAN TRAVELS OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER: CONTAINING The AUTHOR's Sixth and Last VOYAGE, And the ROADS Through TURKEY into PERSIA, through the Northern PROVINCES of EUROPE. With a Description of several Countries lying upon the Black, and Caspian SEAS. CHAP. I. Of the Author's sixth and last Voyage from his setting out of Paris, to his Landing at Smyrna. I Set out of Paris in the year 1663. for Lions, with six several Servants of several professions, which I thought most proper for my business. I carried with me the value of about four hundred thousand Livers, part in Jewels, part in Goldsmith's work and other curiosities, which I designed for the King of Persia and the Great Mogul. Being at Lions I bought a Steel Mirror round and hollow, about two foot and a half in Diameter, would immediately melt a Half-Crown by the heat of the Sunbeams: and if you set a Candle by it in the night, you might read, two hundred Paces off in your Bed by the reflection. From Lions I road to Marseilles, and set Sail for Ligorn the tenth of January, 1664. in a small Bark, but being scared by a great Vessel that we saw off at Sea, we came to an Anchor in the Port of Agaïe, two Leagues from Frejus, where there stood a pitiful Fort with two or three Houses. There we also went ashore and saw a Garden, the Alleys of which were distinguished with rows of Citron and Orange Trees, which looked as Green in the depth of Winter as in the midst of Summer, with several other curiosities after the mode of Italy. We were no sooner got aboard again, but we perceived another Vessel making into the same Port with full Sail. It was a Vessel which the Masters of the Foreign Office at Toulon, had set out to force all Ships that were bound into Italy to pay certain Customs, which those of Marseilles would not pay when they came into the Port of Toulon. Thereupon foreseeing that there would be mischief done, I called for my little Chests that contained my Goods of greatest value, carrying some part myself, and giving the rest to one of my most trusty Servants, thinking to have skipped into a Genoa Bark that lay hard by us; but instead of leaping a-board, I fell into the Sea: where by reason of the Tumult I had perished without relief, had I not by good fortune laid hold of a Cable and redeemed myself. At what time one of my Servants luckily coming to my aid, with much ado drew me up safe again. Having escaped this danger, I got ashore with such of my Servants as I had about me, and meeting with a Bark of Frontignan that carried Languedoc-wine to the Coast of Italy, I hired him for Ligorn; and setting Sail, we first touched Villa-franca, and afterwards at Monaco. At Monaco I went ashore, and went to wait upon Madam the Princess, who showed me the Rarities in the Castle; among the rest, several pieces of extraordinary Painting, several pieces of Clockwork and Goldsmiths-work. But among all her Curiosities she showed me two pieces of Crystal, about the bigness of two Fists each, in one of which there was above a Glass full of Water, in the other a good quantity of Moss; which were closed in by Nature when the Crystal first congealed. Monaco is a Castle situated upon a steep Rock, advancing out into the Sea; which advantage, together with others which it receives from Art and Nature, renders it one of the most considerable Forts in Italy. The next day finding the Frontignan-Vessel to be deep-laden, and that it made little way, I took a Faluke, and kept along by the Shoar, which was most pleasantly adorned with beautiful Villages and Houses, as far as Savona; where I changed my Faluke, to complete the rest of the way which I had to Genoa. Half the way we did very well, but the Wind rising, we were forced to put in to a great Town, where we landed; and from thence, having but nine Miles, I got in good time by Horse to Genoa. There can be no Prospect certainly more pleasing than that nine Miles riding. For on the one side you see nothing but a continued Row of magnificent Buildings and lovely Gardens; on the other a calm Shoar, upon which the Waves seem not to beat, but lovingly to kiss. Arriving at Genoa, I met with the rest of my Servants; and at the end of two days I embarked for Ligorn, where we arrived in four and twenty hours. From Ligorn I went to the Court of Florence, to wait upon the Grand Duke. By whom I had the honour to be admitted into his Chamber, where I found no body attending but one Mute, who had a long time served his Highness: and I observed that they understood one another by Signs, as perfectly as if the Mute had had his Speech and Hearing. So that whenever the Duke sent him into his Closet for any Papers or other thing whatsoever, he never failed to bring the right. After I had taken my leave of the Duke, he sent me a noble Present of Wine and Fruits; but that which I valued more than all the rest, was a Case of Medicaments and Counter-poisons, in the composition whereof the Italians are very exquisite. And yet they did me no service; for when I came into the hot Countries their fermentation was so strong, that all the Oils and Treacles broke their several Boxes, that I could save nothing of that precious Present. The next day, being the twenty-sixth of March 1664, I embarked with all my Servants in a Dutch Vessel called The Justice. The twentyseventh we stayed in the Road, expecting the rest of the Fleet, consisting of eleven Ships, two Men of War, and nine Merchantmen; four of which were bound for Smyrna, three for Ancona, and two for Venice. About seven that evening we set Sail, and all that night the Wind was favourable, but blew hard and veered often; which was the reason that two of our Fleet separated from us, steering between the Isle of Elbe and Corsica, while we kept on between the Isle of Elba and Italy. The twenty-eighth by eight in the Morning we found ourselves between Porto Ferraro and Piombino, and it being fair Wether, we had a pleasant prospect of those two places. From thence we steered between two Lands, the one called Palmajela, the other being nameless. About six hours after we saw Portolongone, afterwards at a distance we descried Monte-Christo. An hour after Noon we discovered Castiglon-sore, all the rest of the day we coasted by the Lands of Gigio and Sanuti. The twenty-ninth, with the same Wind at North-West, by Morning we discovered the Lands of Pontia and Palmerola, and about Evening those of Ventitione and Ischia. Night approaching, and there being no news of the Ships we had lost, instead of making the Pharo of Messina, it was resolved that we should steer a Course round about Messina, where we expected to overtake them. At eleven a Clock in the Evening we had but little Wind at North-North-West, so that we made not above fourteen Leagues of way. The thirty-first the same Wind continued, with a high Sea; but about nine at Night the Wind chopping about to the West, we kept our former Course. The first of April, by eight of the Clock in the Morning we discovered the three Lands that lie before Trepano, Levanzo, Maretima, and Favagna. The second and third the Wether was ill, and the Wind unconstant, so that we made but little way. The fourth, by break of day we discovered the Island of Pantalarea. The fifth by Morning we found ourselves within a League and a half of the Coast of Sicily, just against Cape Passaro, at what time, the Wether being fair, we had a view of Mount Gibello, all covered with Snow. Doubling the Cape in the Afternoon, we discovered the Coast of Saragossa. The sixth we had little or no Wind. But the seventh in the Morning, the Wether being fair, we discovered Cape Spartivento; and the same Wind continuing all that day, toward Evening we sailed in view of other Lands of Calabria. The eighth we found ourselves near to Cape Borsano, and all the rest of the day we sailed in view of Cape Stillo and Cape delle Colonne. The ninth we made little way. But on the tenth in the Morning the Wind coming about to the South, we found ourselves at the Entry of the Gulf of Venice, between Cape St. Mary and the Coast of Greece, where the Mountains were covered with Snow. About ten of the Clock we tacked to our own Course, while the Ships that were bound for Venice and Ancona entered the Gulf. The tenth by Morning we saw two little Islands, the one called Fauno, the other Merlera; and were in sight of Corfu. About Noon, the Wind being at East, we kept out at Sea: and about Evening abundance of little Birds lighted upon our Cordage, of which we caught enough to make a lusty Fricassee. We also caught four Falcons, Owls, and good store of Turtles. The eleventh and twelfth the Wind being at East, we lay hover about the Shoar, without making any way. The fourteenth and fifteenth having the Wind at North-West, we were two days without seeing Land, yet we caught good store of Birds. The sixteenth the same Wind continuing, we found ourselves near the Island of Zant. From eight in the Morning till three in the Afternoon we were becalmed; but then a good brisk West Wind carried away all our little Birds. The seventeenth and eighteenth we were becalmed. The nineteenth in the Morning, the Wind being at North-West, we discovered Cape Gullo, between Modon and Coron, in the Morea. The twentieth, with the same Wind that blew fresh, we found ourselves by Morning within two Canonshot of Cape Matapan, which is the most Southern Cape of all Europe. About Noon the Wind coming full West, in three hours we passed by the Point of the Island Cerigo. The twenty-first in the Morning, we discovered the Islands of Caravi and Falconera on the one side, and Cape Schilli on the other hand. Two hours after, having a fresh Gale at South-West, about Evening we were in view of the Island of St. George. The twentysecond though the Wind slackened, yet we made some way; for in the Morning we found ourselves between the Island of Zea and the Morea, near to another Cape delle Colonne: afterwards we discovered the Island of Negropont, and doubled the Cape three hours after Noon, having left sight of the Island of Andros by ten in the Forenoon. The twenty-third the Wind blowing fresh all the night, by morning we found ourselves near the Island of Ipsera. At noon we made the Point of the Island of Chio, near to the Land; and that night we came to an Anchor near the Castle, being becalmed. The twenty-fourth the Wind risen at North-West, which blew us into the Port of Smyrna. The twenty-fifth we went ashore, having had as quiet a passage as ever I had in my Life for twenty days together. CHAP. II. A Continuation of the Author's sixth Voyage, as he travelled from Smyrna to Ispahan. WE stayed at Smyrna from the twenty-fifth of April to the ninth of June; during which time there happ'nd so terrible an Earthquake, that I had like to have tumbled out of my Bed. The Caravan being ready to set out for Tauris, I took with me three Armenian Servants, besides those that I carried out of France to serve me upon the Road. We set out of Smyrna upon Monday the ninth of June at three a Clock in the afternoon. The Caravan rendezvoused at Pont-garbashi, three Leagues from the City, consisting of six hundred Camels, and almost the same number of Horse. We set out the next night, two hours after midnight. As for the Road I shall say nothing, only relate some Passages that fell out by the way. Being come to Erivan, the fourteenth of September we encamped in a pleasant green place between the Castle and the old Town; for we would not lie in the Inn, because we heard that several sick people lodged there. We stayed there two days; during which time I resolved to wait upon the Can, I found him in a Room made in one of the Arches of the Bridge which is built over the River, which I have described already, with several Captains and Officers about him: when he had asked me whence I came, and whither I was travelling, he caused a Glass of Liquor to be filled me. After that I presented him with a Prospective-Glass, six pair of ordinary Spectacles, twelve other pair of Spectacles that cast several Reflections, two little Pistols, and a Steel to strike Fire, made like a Pistol. All which pleased him extremely well, especially the Spectacles, for he was sixty years of age. Thereupon he commanded a Lamb, Wine, Fruit, and Melons to be carried to my Tent, and that I should want nothing. After that we sat down to Dinner, but I observed the Can himself drank no Wine, though he pressed me to it. The reason was, because he was an Agis, that is, one that had made his Pilgrimage to Mecca; for than it is not lawful to drink Wine, or any other inebriating Drink. After Dinner, finding him in a pleasant humour, I resolved to complain to him of one of the Custom-Officers about an injury he had done me. For it is usual with the Customer in this place to open the Chests of all the Merchants, both Turks and Armenians, to the end that if they have any thing of Rarity the Can of Erivan may see it: for many times, he buys what pleases him best to send to the King. This Officer would not excuse me for his Custom, and therefore at my very first arrival he would have me to open my Chests; and because I did not do it according to his Orders, he asked me very rudely why I had not obeyed his Commands: I answered him as surlily, that I would open my Chest no where unless it were in the presence of the King, and that as for him, I knew him not: Upon that he threatened me, that if he did not find my Chests open the next day, he would open them by force; thereupon I said no more, but bidhim have a care I did not make him repent of what he had done already. This was the ground of the Quarrel, and I was about to have complained to the Can; but his Nephew entreated me for the love I bore him, not to say any thing of it, and promised to send the Customer to me to beg my Pardon, which he did, and the Customer was forced to crave it hearty. To avoid the same inconvenience for the future, I desired the Can to give me his Passport, to the end I might pass Custom-free through the Territories of his Government, which he freely and courteously granted me: Come, said he, and dine with me to morrow, and you shall have it. The twenty-sixth of September we departed from Erivan, and the ninth of November we came to Tauris, taking the ordinary Road. At Erivan two of my Servants, the one a Watchmaker, the other a Goldsmith, died; I left them sick there, but caused them to be buried in the Churchyard belonging to the Armenians. One of them died in fifteen days, of a Gangrene, which eat out his Mouth and Throat; being the Disease of the Country. Though had the Armenians known that one of them had been a Protestant, they would never have allowed him to have been buried in their Churchyard. Here observe the exact justice, wherewith the Persians preserve the Goods of Strangers. For the Civil Judge hearing of the death of the Watchmaker, caused his Chamber to be sealed up, to the end the Goods might be preserved for the kindred of the deceased, if they came to demand them. I returned to Tauris a twelvemonth after, and found the Chamber close sealed up. We stayed twelve days at Tauris: during which time I resolved to attend the Can of Shamaqui, a frontler Town of Persia toward the Caspian Sea; but I found him not there, in regard it was Harvest season, at what time he goes to gather the King's and his own Duties. Two days journey on this side Shamaqui you pass the Arras, and for two days journey you travel through a Country all planted with white Mulberry-Trees; the Inhabitants being all Silk-Weavers. Before you come to the City, you must cross over several Hills: But I think I should rather have called it a great Town, where there was nothing remarkable but a fair Castle which the Can built himself; I speak of the time past: For as I returned from this present Voyage of which I now write, when I came to Tauris I understood, that there had happened such a terrible Earthquake in the Town as had laid all the Houses in a heap; none escaping that dismal subversion, but only one Watchmaker of Geneva, and one more who was a Camel-driver. I had several times designed to return into France through Muscovy; but I durst never adventure, being certainly informed that the Muscovite never permitted any person to go out of Muscovy into Persia, nor to come out of Persia into Muscovy. So that it was by particular connivance that that favour was granted to the Duke of Holstein's Ambassadors. This last time I was resolved to have tried whether I could have opened a Passage from Persia through Muscovy into France, but the Ruin of Shamaqui deterred me. We departed from Tauris the twentysecond of November, from whence to Cashan we met with nothing considerable, but only one of the Muscovite Ambassadors upon his return into his own Country, with a small Retinue of sixty, his Companion dying at Ispahan. Upon Sunday the fourteenth of December taking Horse by three of the Clock in the morning, the Ice bearing very well, we came to Ispahan about noon: but in regard it was slippery before day, and very plashy after the Sun was up, the Journey was both tedious and troublesome. CHAP. III. The Road from Aleppo to Tauris, through Diarbequir and Van. THere are two Roads more remaining to be described; one through the North part of Turkey, the other through the South. The first through Diarbequir and Van, and so to Tauris; the second through Anna, and the small Desert leading to Bagdat. I will describe the first of these Roads, and make a skip at the first leap to by'r, whither I have already led you in the Road from Aleppo. From by'r or Beri, you travel all along the River Euphrates to Cachemés. From Cachemé you come to Milesara, where you pay the Customs of Oursa, when you do not pass through the City, which amounts to four Piastres for every Horseload. From Milesara you come to the River Arzlan-chaye, or, the Lion River, by reason of the rapidity of the Stream which falls into Euphrates. From Arzlan-chaye you go to Severak. This is a City, watered by a River, that also falls into Euphrates. It is environed with a great Plain to the North, the West, and South. The way which the Horses, Mules, and Camels keep is cut through the Rock like a Channel, two Foot deep, where you must also pay half a Piastre for every Horseload. From Severak you come to Bogazi, where there are two Wells, but not a House near; and where the Caravan usually lodges. From Bogazi you come to Deguirman-Bogazi, and from Deguirman-Bogazi to Mirzatapa, where there is only an Inn. From Mirzatapa you come to Diarbequir, which the Turks call Caremu. Diarbequir is a City situated upon a rising ground, on the right side of Tigris, which in that place forms a Halfmoon; the descent from the Walls to the River being very steep. It is encompassed with a double Wall; the outward Wall being strengthened with sixty-two Towers, which they report were built in Honour of the sixty two Disciples of JESUS CHRIST. The City has but three Gates, over one of which there is an Inscription in Greek and Latin, that makes mention of one Constantine. There are in it two or three fair Piazza's, and a magnificent Mosque, which was formerly a Christian Church. It is surrounded with very decent Charnel-houses, near to which the Moullahs, Dervi's, Booksellers and Stationers do live, together with all those other people that concern the Law. About a League from the City there is a Channel cut out of Tigris, that brings the Water to the City: And in this Water are all the red Marroquins washed that are made at Diarbequir, surpassing in colour'all others in the East: which Manufacture employs a fourth part of the Inhabitants of the City. The Soil is very good, and yields according to expectation; there is excellent Bread and very good Wine, nor is there any better Provision to be had in any part of Persia: more especially, there is a sort of Pigeons which in goodness excel all the several kinds that we have in Europe. The City is very well peopled, and it is thought there are in it above twenty thousand Christians. The two thirds are Armenians, the rest Nestorians, with some few Jacobites. There are also some few Capuchins, that have no House of their own, but are forced to lodge in an Inn. The Bassa of Diarbequir is one of the Viziers of the Empire. He has but an inconsiderable Infantry, which is not much requisite in that Country; the Curds and Arabs which infested that Country being all Horsemen. But he is strong in Cavalry, being able to bring above twenty thousand Horse into the Field. A quarter of an hours riding on this side Diarbequir there is a great Town with a large Inn, where the Caravans that go and come from Persia rather choose to lie than at Diarbequir; in regard that in the City-Inns, they pay three or four Piastres for every Chamber, but in the Country-Inns there is nothing demanded. At Diarbequir, you cross the Tigris, which is always fordable unless when the Snow and Rains have swelled it; for than you must go a quarter of a League higher, and cross it over a great Stone-Bridge. Half a League on the other side of Tigris stands a Village, with an Inn, which is the Rendezvous of the whole Caravan, and where they that first come have time enough to provide themselves for a Journey of nine or ten days, as far as Betlis. For though you may find Towns and Inns thick enough upon the Road, yet there is no good Bread to be met with. When the Caravan proceeds, the first days journey is fourteen hours on Horseback, and you come to lie at Shaye-batman, where you must pay a Piastre for every Horseload. From Chaye-batman you come to Chikaran. From Chikaran to Azou, which you leave half a League from the great Road, where the Toll-gatherers take their Toll, which is four Piastres upon every Horseload. From Azou you come to Ziarat; from Ziarat to Zerque, where you pay a Duty of two Piastres for every Horseload. From Zerche to Cochakan. From Cochakan to Carakan, a bad Inn; where you enter among the Mountains, that being full of Torrents reach as far as Betlis. From Carakan to Betlis, a City belonging to a Bey or Prince of the Country, the most potent and most considerable of all the rest; for he neither acknowledges the Grand Signior nor the Persian: whereas all the other Beys are Tributary either to the one or the other. And it is the Interest of those two Potentates to correspond with him; for it's an easy thing for him to stop up the passage from Aleppo to Tauris, or from Tauris to Aleppo; the straits of the Mountains being so narrow, that ten Men may defend them against a thousand. Coming near Betlis you must travel a whole day among high steep Mountains, that reach two Miles beyond, with Torrents on each side; the way being cut out of the Rock on each side, where there is but just room for a Camel to pass. The City stands between two high Mountains, equally distant one from the other, and about the height of Montmartre. It is built like a Sugar-loaf, the ascent being so steep on every side, that there is no getting to the top, but by wheeling and winding about the Mountain. The top of all is a Platform, where stands a Castle well built, at the Gate whereof is a Drawbridge. Then you pass through two great Courts, and then into a third, opposite to the Bey's Apartment. It is very troublesome to get up to the top of the Castle, and a Man must be very well Horsed that does it. There is no other person but the Bey and his Esquire, who is permitted to ride up on Horseback. There is one Inn within the City, and another as it were without, in which the Merchants rather choose to lie than in the other, by reason that it is ready to be overflown when the Torrents swell, that run through every Street. The Bey, beside the strength of his Passes, is able to bring above five and twenty thousand Horse into the Field; and a very considerable Body of Foot, composed of the Shepherds of the Country, who are to be ready at a Call. I went to wait upon the Bey himself, and made him a Present of two pieces of Satin, the one streaked with Silver, and the other with Gold: two white Bonnets, such as the Turks wear, very fine, and adorned with Silver at the top; together with a suit of Handkerchiefs, streaked with Red and Silver. While I stayed with the Bey, who sent for Coffee for me according to the custom, a Courier came to him from the Bassa of Aleppo, to desire him that he would deliver up into his hands a French Chirurgeon that was his Slave, having been taken in Candia; complaining withal, that he had run away from him with the value of three thousand Crowns. The Bey, who understood what belonged to a Sanctuary, and was resolved to protect the Frenchman, schooled the Messenger so severely, that he threatened to put him to death if he did not get him gone presently; charging him to tell his Master withal, that he would complain to the Grand Signior of his insolence; and that if he were strangled, he might thank himself. And indeed it behoved the Great Turk to keep fair correspondence with him; in regard that if the Persians should at any time besiege Van, the Grand Signior must march through the Bey's Country to relieve it; who has Forces enough to oppose him if he should be his Enemy. But to travel through the Country of the Curds is very pleasant: for if on the one side the ways are bad, and difficult to be travelled, in other places you have a prospect of several sorts of Trees, as Oaks and Walnuts, and not a Tree which is not embraced with a wild Vine. Below the Mountains, in the Level, grows the best Wheat; and Barley in all the Country. From Betlis, where you pay five Piastres for every Horseload, to Taduan, where you pay two. Taduan is a great Town within a Canonshot of the Lake of Van, in such a part, where Nature has made a Haven, sheltered from all the Winds; being closed on all sides with high Mountains, the entry into which though it seem narrow, is very free. It is able to contain twenty or thirty great Barks; and when it is fair Wether, and that the Wind serves, the Merchants generally Ship off their Goods from thence to Van: from whence it is but four and twenty hours' sail, and a very good passage; whereas by Land from Taduan to Van it is eight days journey on Horseback. Returning back, you may also take Water at Van for Taduan. From Taduan to Karmoushé. From Karmoushé to Kellat. From Kellat to Algiaoux, a small City, where you pay one Piastre for every Load. From Agiaoux to Spanktiere. From Spanktiere to Soüer. From Soüer to Argiche. From Argiche to Quiarakierpou. From Quiarakierpou to Perkeri. From Perkeri to Zuarzazin. From Zuarzazin to Souserat. From Souserat to Devan, where two Piastres are gathered for every Horseload, or else you must pay at Van. From Devan to Van, where there is a Duty of two Tomans and four Abassis to be paid for every Horseload. For though Van be in the Territories of the Grand Signior, yet the Persian Money is better liked than his own Coyn. Van is a great City upon the side of a wide Lake of the same name. There is a good Fortress belongs to it, that is seated upon the top of a high Mountain which stands by itself. There is but one sort of Fish in the Lake, a little bigger than a Pilchard, of which they take great store in the Month of April. For about a League from the Lake there is a great River that is called Bendmahi, which descending from the Mountains of Armenia, empties itself into the Lake. Now in March when the Snow melts and swells the River, vast numbers of these Fish come down the River into the Lake; which the Fishermen observing, so stop up the Mouth of the River that the Fish cannot go back; for else they would not stay above forty days; at which time they catch 'em up in wide-mouthed Baskets at the Mouth of the River, thinking to return; it being lawful for any man to fish. The people drive a great Trade in these Fish, transporting them into Persia and Armenia; for, the Persians and Armenians both, drinking Wine at the end of their Feasts, they then bring this Dish to the Table for a relishing-bit. The people of Van tell a Story, how that there was a certain rich Merchant who farmed the whole Fishery, paying a good sum of Money for it to the Bassa; who thereupon strictly forbade any to fish but the Merchant; whereas before it was free for any man. But when the Fishing-season came, and that the Merchant thought to have caught his Fish, he met with nothing but Serpents. So that after that time the Fishery was never more farmed. And there seems to be something in it; for the Bassa's, who are a sort of people that will lose nothing they can get, would be certain to farm the Fish again and again, were there not some strange reason to hinder it. There are two principal Islands in the Lake of Van; the one called Adaketons, where there stand two Covents of the Armenians, Sourphague and Sourp-kara: the other Island is called Limadasi, and the name of the Covent is Limquiliasi, all which Armenian Monks live very austerely. From Van to Darcheck. From Darcheck to Nuchar; it stands in the Territories of a Bey of Curdistan, being a paltry Village consisting of two or three little Houses. These Bey's are a kind of particular Lords, upon the Frontiers of both the Empires of Turkey and Persia, who care for neither: for they lie so secure among the Mountains, that there is no assaulting them by force. The Curds in general are a brutish sort of people; who though they style themselves Mahometans, have very few Moullahs to instruct or teach them. They have a particular veneration for black Greyhounds; so that if any person should be seen to kill one of them, he would be knocked o'the Head immediately. Neither does any one dare to cut an Onion with a Knife in their presence; but it must be squeezed between two Stones by him that intends to make use of it; so ridiculously superstitious they are. The Bey to whom Nuchar belongs has his Toll-gatherers in that place, who exact sixteen Abasses for every Horseload, besides a Present which the Caravan-Bashi is obliged to present him, which comes sometimes to seven or eight Tomans, sometimes more: for otherwise the Bey would be sure to watch the Caravan at some scurvy place, and plunder it to some purpose. As once it happened to a Caravan, with which my Nephew went along in the year 1672; though he had the good luck to lose nothing more than one Camel laden with English Cloth, and another with his Provision. The Bassa of Van and the Can of Tauris took the Field with an intention to remedy these disorders: especially the Bassa of Van, who perceiving that the Merchants would forsake that Road by reason of the Injuries they daily received, was resolved to make the Bassa restore some part of his Goods which he had taken from the Merchants; and for the future to leave two of his Subjects in Tauris, and two in Van, that should be responsible for what mischief should be done to the Caravan. For otherwise the Merchants like this way best, as being the nearest from Aleppo to Tauris, and where they pay less Duties. From Nuchar to Kuticlar, is a long Journey through the Mountains, by the side of several Torrents, which are to be crossed in several places. This bad way brings Fifty i'the Hundred profit to the Bey of Nuchar; for were the Caravan to travel through Plains, or a level Country, one Horse or Camel would carry as much as two or three, and the Merchant would pay Custom for no more. Here therefore the Caravan-Bashi and the Merchants must understand one another, and agree as cunningly as they can together. From Kuticlar to Kalvat. From Kalvat to Kogia. From Kogia to Darkavin. From Darkavin to Soliman-Sera: all which four places are very convenient Inns. From Soliman-Sera to Kours: in that City resides a Bey, who is tributary to the King of Persia. He lives in an ancient Castle about half a League off, where the Caravan pays nine Abasses for every Horseload, besides a Present. But that Present consists only in Sugarloafs, Boxes of Treacle, or Marmalade; for he stands so much upon his Honour, that he scorns to take Money. The Wine of Kours is sweet and tart. From Kours to Devogli. From Devogli to Checheme. About half way between these two places you cross a Plain, which upon the South extends itself a League to the Mountains, but upon the North side enlarges itself out of sight. Upon the Highway, on the left hand stands a Rock three hundred Paces in compass, and about fourscore Foot high; round about it were to be seen several Dens, which most certainly had been the Habitations of those that fed their cattle thereabouts. Under the Rock, which is hollow, appears a Fountain of clear cold Water, wherein there was great store of Fish; thousands of which would come up to the top of the Water, when a man threw any Bread into it. The Fish had a great Head, and a large Mustache. I shot a Carbine into the River charged with Hail-shot, upon which they all disappeared, but presently five or six returned wounded to the top of the Water, which we easily took. The Armenians laughed at me for shooting, believing it had been impossible to catch them in that manner; but they admired when they beheld them again turning up their bellies at the top of the Water. The Turks and some of the Armenians would not eat of them, believing them to be defiled: but the Armenians that had been in Europe laughed at their Superstition, and fell to, when they were dressed. From Checheme to Davashiler. From Davashiler to Marand; a City where you must pay sixteen Abasses for a Camel's-load, and eight for a Horses. From Merand to Sefian. From Sefian to Tauris. These are the two biggest days journeys throughout the Road. Returning out of Persia this way, we could not get Bread for Money; so that we were forced to give the Women some Trifles which they loved better. Though the People are Mahometans, yet they will not spare to drink lustily. CHAP. IU. Another Road from Aleppo to Tauris, through Geziré and other places. FRom Aleppo to by'r or Beri, where you must cross Euphrates, days 4 From by'r to Ourfa, days 2 From Ourfa to Diarbequir, days 6 From Diarbequir to Geziré, days 4 Geziré is a little City of Mesopotamia, built upon an Island in the River Tigris; which is there to be crossed over a fair Bridge of Boats. Here the Merchants meet to buy Gall-nuts and Tobacco. The City is under the Jurisdiction of a Bey. Having past the Tigris, all the Country between that and Tauris is almost equally divided between Hills and Plains; the Hills are covered with Oaks that bear Galls, and some Acoms withal. The Plains are planted with Tobacco, which is transported into Turkey, for which they have a very great Trade. One would think the Country were poor, seeing nothing but Galls and Tobacco; but there is no Country in the World where there is more Gold or Silver laid out; and where they are more nice in taking Money that is in the least defective either in weight or goodness of Metal. For Galls being a general Commodity for Dying, and no where to be found so good as there, bring a vast Trade to the Country; wherein there are no Villages, yet it is overspread with Houses a Musquet-shot one from another; and every Inhabitant has his quarter of his Vineyard by himself, where they dry their Grapes: for they make no Wine. From Geziré to Amadié, days 2 Amadié is a good City, to which the Natives of a great part of Assyria bring their Tobacco, and Gall-nuts. It is seated upon a high Mountain, to the top whereof you cannot get in less than an hour. Toward the middle of the Rock three or four large Springs fall down from the Cliffs, where the Inhabitants are forced to water their cattle and fill their Borachio's every morning, there being no Water in the City. It is of an indifferent bigness, and in the middle is a large Piazza, where all sorts of Merchants keep their Shops. It is under the Command of a Bey that is able to raise eight or ten thousand Horse, and more Foot than any other of the Beys, by reason his Country is so populous. From Amadié to Giousmark, days 4 From Giousmark to Alback, days 3 From Alback to Salmastre, days 3 Salmastre is a pleasant City upon the Frontiers of the Assyrians and Medes, and the first on that side in the Territories of the Persian King. The Caravan never lies there, because it would be above a League out of the way: but when the Caravan is lodged, two or three of the principal Merchants with the Caravan-Bashi according to custom go to wait upon the Can. The Can is so glad that the Caravan takes that Road, that he presents the Caravan-Bashi and those that go with him, with the Garment of Honour, or the Calaat, the Bonnet, and Girdle; which is the greatest Honour that the King or his Governor can do to Strangers. From Salamastre to Tauris, days 4 In all thirty-two days journey this way from Aleppo to Tauris. But though this be the shortest cut, and where they pay least Customs, yet the Merchants dare hardly venture for fear of being ill used by the Beys. Teren, whose Capital City the Persians call Cherijar, is a Province between Mazandran and the ancient Region of the Persians known at this day by the name of Hierac, to the Southeast of Ispahan. 'Tis one of the most temperate Countries, that has nothing in it of the contagious Air of Guilan, where the King goes for the purity of the Air, and for his sport of Hunting; besides, that it produceth excellent Fruits in many places. The Capital City whereof, which some call by the name of the Province, is of a moderate compass, but there is nothing worthy observation in it: only a League from it are to be seen the Ruins of a great City, which had been two Leagues in Circuit. There were abundance of Towers all of burnt Brick, and Pieces of the Wall standing. There were also several Letters in the Stones which were cemented into the Walls; but neither Turks, Persians, nor Arabians could understand them. The City is round seated upon a high Hill, at the top whereof stood the Ruins of a Castle, which the Natives say was the Residence of the Kings of Persia. CHAP. V The Road from Aleppo to Ispahan through the small Desert, and through Kengavar. I Will describe this Road as if I were to return from Ispahan to Aleppo. This Road lies through Kengavar, Bagdat, and Anna, where you enter into the Desert, which I call The little Desert, because you get over it in far less time than the great Desert that extends Southwards to Arabia the Happy, and where you may often find Water, all the whole Journey being not far distant from the River Euphrates. A man that is well mounted may ride this way from Ispahan to Aleppo in three and thirty days, as I have done, and perhaps in less, if the Arabian, whom you take for your guide at Bagdat, knows the shortest cut through the Wilderness. The Horse Caravans travelling from Ispahan to Kengavar are fourteen or fifteen days upon the Road; but being well mounted ten or twelve in a Company, you may Ride it in five or six days. The Country through which you travel, is very fertile in Corn and Rice, it produces also excellent Fruits and good Wine, especially about Kengavar, which is a large Town and well peopled. From Kengavar to Bagdat I was ten days upon the Road. The Country is not so fertile but very stony in some parts. And it consists in Plains and small Hills, there being not a Mountain in all the Road. Now for a man that travels quick, the Road lies thus: From Ispahan to Consar. From Consar to Comba. From Comba to Oranguié. From Oranguié to Nahoüand. From Nahoüand to Kengavar. Fron Kengavar to Sahana. From Sahana to Polisha, or the Bridge-Royal, being a great Stone Bridge. From Polisha to Maidacht. From Maidacht to Erounabad. From Erounabad to Conaguy. From Conaguy to Caslisciren. From Caslisciren to jengui-conaguy. From jengui-conaguy to Casered. From Casered to Charaban. From Charaban to Bourous. From Bourous to Bagdat. There are some, who instead of passing through Kengavar, take Amadan, one of the most considerable Cities of Persia in their way, and so from thence to Toucheré; but the way is longer; and according to the Road which I have set down, you are to leave Amadan to the North upon the right hand. Between Sahana and Polisha you leave the only high Mountain in all the Road to the North. It is as steep and as strait as a Wall, and as high as you can see; you may observe the Figures of men clad like Priests, with Surplices and Censors in their hands, and yet neither can the Natives tell you, nor any person imagine the meaning of those Sculptures. At the foot of the Rock runs a River, over which there is a Bridge of Stone. About a days journey beyond the Mountain you meet with a little City, whose situation, the Streams that water it, the good Fruits that grow there, and particularly the excellent Wine which it affords, render a most pleasant Mansion. The Persians believe that Alexander when he returned from Babylon died in this place, whatever others have written that he died at Babylon. All the rest of the Country from this City to Bagdat is a Country of Dates, where the people live in little Huts, made of the Branches of Palm-trees. From Bagdat to Anna you ride in four days, through a desert Country, though it lie between two Rivers. Anna is a City of an indifferent bigness, that belongs to an Arabian Emir. For about half a League round about the Town, the Lands are very well manured, being full of Gardens and Country-houses. The City for its situation resembles Paris; for it is built upon both sides of the River Euphrates; and in the midst of the River is an Island, where stands a fair Mosque. From Anna to Mached-raba is five days riding, and from Mached-raba to Taïba, five days more. Mached-raba is a kind of a Fortress upon the point of a Hill, at the Foot whereof springs a Fountain like a large Vase, which is very rare in the Deserts. The place is encompassed with high Walls, defended by certain Towers, and in which are little Huts where the Inhabitants keep their cattle, of which there is great store, but more Mares and Horses than Cows. Taïba is also a fortified place in a level Country, or a high Bank of Earth and Brick baked in the Sun. Near to the Gate a Fountain springs out of the Earth, and makes a kind of a Pond. This Road is most frequented by those that travel through the Desert from Aleppo or Damas' to Babylon, or from Damas' to Diarbequir, by reason of this Fountain. From Taïba to Aleppo is but three days journey; but these three days are the most dangerous of all the Road for Robbers, in regard that all the Country is inhabited only by the Bedouïns, or Arabian Shepherds, who make it their business only to plunder and steal. Now to take the same Road from Aleppo to Ispahan, it lies thus: From Aleppo to Taïba, days 3 From Taïba to Mached-raba, days 5 From Mached-raba to Anna, days 5 From Anna to Bagdat, days 4 From Bagdat to Bourous, days 1 From Bourous to Charaban, days 1 From Charaban to Casered, days 1 From Casered to Conaguy, days 1 From Conaguy to Cassiscerin, days 1 From Cassiscerin to another Conaguy, days 1 From Conaguy to Erounabad, days 1 From Erounabad to Maidacht, days 1 From Maidacht to Sahana, days 1 From Sahana to Kengavar, days 1 From Kengavar to Nahoüand, days 1 From Nahoüand to Oranguie, days 1 From Oranguie to Comba, days 1 From Comba to Consar, days 1 From Consar to Ispahan, days 1 So that whether you travel from Aleppo to Ispahan, or from Ispahan to Aleppo, you may easily ride it in thirty days. From whence I make this Observation, That a man making it but two days more from Alexandretta, and finding a Ship ready there to set Sail for Marseilles, with a fair Wind he may travel from Ispahan to Paris in two months. Another time, having an occasion to go from Aleppo to Kengavar, and so to Bagdat; and from thence, so through the Desert; at Bagdat I met with a Spaniard that was travelling the same way, with whom I luckily met to bear half the Charges of the Guide; which as soon as we had hired for sixty Crowns, we set forward from Bagdat; the Spaniard, and I, and our Arabian, who was afoot, walked about Pistol Shot before our Horses. From thence to Anna we met with nothing remarkable, but only that we saw a Lion and a Lioness in the Act of Generation: Whereupon our Guide believing we had been afraid, told us, that he had met them often, but that he never found them do any harm. The Spaniard according to the humour of his Nation, was very reserved, and contenting himself with an Onion, or some such small matter at meals, never made much of his guide; whereas I was mightily in his favour, in regard there was never a day passed wherein he did not receive of me some good business or other. We were not above a Musket Shot from Anna when we met with a comely old man, who came up to me, and taking my Horse by the Bridle; Friend, said he, come and wash thy feet and eat Bread at my House. Thou art a Stranger, and since I have met thee upon the Road, never refuse me the favour which I desire of thee. The Invitation of the old man was so like the custom of the people in ancient times, of which we read so many Examples in Scripture, that we could not choose but go along with him to his House, where he Feasted us in the best manner he could, giving us over and above Barley for our Horses; and for us he killed a Lamb and some Hens. He was an Inhabitant of Anna, and lived by the River, which we were obliged to cross to wait upon the Governor for our Passports, for which we paid two Piastres apiece. We stayed at a House near the Gate of the City to buy Provisions for ourselves and our Horses; where the woman of the House having a lovely sprightly Child of nine years of age, I was so taken with her humour, that I gave her two Handkerchiefs of Painted Calicut, which the Child showing her Mother, all we could do could not make her take any Money for the Provisions we had agreed for. Five hundred paces from the Gate of the City, we met a young man of a good Family, for he was attended by two Servants, and road upon an Ass, the hinder part of which was Painted red. He accosted me in particular, and after some Compliments that passed, Is it possible, said he, that I should meet a Stranger, and have nothing to present him withal? He would fain have carried us to a House in the Country whether he was going; but seeing we were resolved to keep our way, he would needs give me his Pipe, notwithstanding all the excuses I could make, and though I told him that I never took any Tobacco; so that I was constrained to accept of it. About three Leagues from Anna, we were going to eat among the Ruins of certain Houses, and had thought to have lain there till midnight, when we percived two Arabians sent by the Emir, to tell us that he had some Letters which he would put into our own hands to the Bassa of Aleppo, to which purpose he had order to bring us back. There was no refusing, so that at our coming into the City the next day we saw the Emir going to the Mosque, mounted upon a stately Horse, and attended by a great number of people afoot, with every one a great Poniard stuck in their Girdles. As soon as we saw him we alighted, and standing up by the Houses, we saluted him as he passed by. Seeing our Guide, and threatening to rip up his Belly; Ye Dog, said he, I will give ye your reward, and teach ye to carry Strangers away before I see them. Carry them, said he, to the Governors' House till I return from the Mosque. Returning from the Mosque, and being seated in a spacious Hall, he sent for us and our Guide, whom he threatened again for carrying us out of the Town without giving him notice. But the Governor pleaded his excuse, and appeased the Emir. After that he sent for Coffee for us, and then caused us to open the Budget that we carried behind our Horses, to see whether there were any thing that pleased him or no. In my Budget were two pieces of Calicut tightly painted, for two Coverlets of a Bed; two pieces of Handkerchief of Calicut; two Persian Standishes beautified with Japon Varnish; two Damascene Blades, one inlaid with Gold, the other with Silver. All which he liked, and made me give him. In the Spaniards Budget he found nothing but a few old Clothes: But afterwards being known to have had some Diamonds about him, the French Consul at Aleppo sentenced him to pay me half the charges of what I gave the Emir. The Prince satisfied with what he had taken, gave order that we should be furnished with all necessary Provisions for ourselves and our Horses: but being provided before, we only took three or four handfuls of excellent Dates, to show that we did not slight his kindness. Between Anna and Mached-raba is the Guide to take special care so to order his Stages, as to come every morning to the Wells by break of day, for fear of meeting the Arabs, that come to fetch Water there by that time the Sun is up, who are apt enough to be injurious to Travellers. At Mached-raba I saw one of the most beautiful Virgins that ever I beheld in my life. For I had given a Piastre to an Arab to get me some Bread, and going to see whether it were baked, I found the Virgin putting it into the Oven, who being alone, made me a sign to retire. There I also saw a Colt of that wonderful shape, that the Bassa of Damas' had offered three thousand Crowns for it. Coming to Taïba, we did not go into the Town, but lay without under the Walls. Only our Arab went in and brought us chopped Straw for our Camels. The Governor of the Town came along with him, and demanded twenty Piastres of every one, for certain Duties which he pretended payable to him. We knew there were but four due, and refused to pay any more; but the Arab having a mind to put a trick upon the Spaniard, gave me a wink, intimating to me that I should not trouble myself: Thereupon the Governor incensed goes back to the Town, and by and by returns with an Iron Chain; and had certainly carried the Spaniard fettered to the Fort, had he not laid down the twenty Piastres. For my part, I was discharged for my four Piastres, according to custom. Drawing near to Aleppo, the first Houses that we came at bordering upon the Desert, were the Houses of the Arabs and Bedoüins; the second of which being the Habitation of a Friend of our Guide's, I delivered my Horse to the Guide, to whom I had sold it before at his own earnest request; for I was resolved to go afoot to Aleppo: and therefore that I might save the Custom of a parcel of Turquoises that I had about me, I put them in the Pouches which I carried behind my Horse, and threw the Pouches into a little Chest, as if they had been things of no consequence; and desired the Man of the House to keep them a day or two. The Arab told me, that were it all Gold it should be safe; and indeed when I sent for them within a day or two after, I found nothing missing. When I came to Aleppo, the English Consul asked me what news from Ispahan: I made answer, that he must of necessity know better than I, in regard the English Precedent there had sent away an Express to him while I was there; and that he went away with two Capuchins and an Arabian Guide. Thereupon the Consul mistrusting some mischief was befallen them, requested the Bassa to lend him some of his Sokliers; who readily granted him eight Men, part Arabians, part Bedoüins. These the Consul ordered to disperse themselves upon several Roads in the Wilderness, to see if they could meet with any tidings upon the Way. In a short time two of them returned with two little Pouches, in one of which was the Packet of Letters. They reported also, that in a by-place between Taïba and Mached-raba they saw the Bodies of four dead Men lying upon the Sand. One of them which was in black Clothes, being hacked and mangled in a most miserable manner; but the Bodies of the other three were entire, though run through in several places. Some time after the persons themselves that did the fact told both at Diarbequir and Damas', how it came to pass. For certain Merchants of Damas' going to Diarbequir, perceived four Men early in the morning at certain Wells where they were to stop; whereupon they sent two of their Company before to know who they were. But the Austin-friar- having a little parcel of Diamonds about him, and believing them to be Thiefs, inconsiderately let fly his Gun and killed one of them immediately upon the place: the Merchants seeing one of their companions dead, fell all at once upon the other three, cut the Austin-friar- to pieces, and slew the rest; and so without rifling them pursued their Journey. From Aleppo I went to Alexandretta, and there embarked in a Vessel of Marseilles, with a favourable Wind, till we came to make the Coast of Candy, where we were becalmed for two days. One morning by break of day we discovered a Pickaroon, whereupon seeing we could not avoid being fetched up by him, we made ready. He made two or three shot at us, which did us no other harm but only touched the Beak-head of the Ship. Our Gunner made a shot at him, which brought down his Top-gallant; a second went through and through the great Cabin, and caused a great disorder in his Ship, as far as we could discern with our Prospective-Glasses. But when the Wind began to blow fresh, the Pirate, who had enough of us, and had discovered another Vessel which perhaps he thought better prize, made all the Sail he could from us toward the other Vessel. Thereupon we pursued our Voyage with a fair Gale, and came to Malta. From Malta we departed seven or eight in company, in two of the Pope's Galleys, staying three days at Syracuse, and one at Messina; where our Company increasing, we hired a Feluck for Naples. But as we were coasting by the Shoar to the Port of Naples, so terrible a Tempest surprised us near to Paolo, that we were forced to put in there upon Palm-Sunday. The next day we went to see the Covent of St. Francis of Paolo; the way to it lying between a high Mountain on the right, and a Precipice on the left hand. This Mountain leans so, that it seems to be tumbling down; and there is a good height upon the Rock the seeming print of a Hand, which as the report goes, was the print of St. Francis' Hand, who sustained it a whole day, and kept it from falling. From Paolo we went to Naples, were we arrived upon Easter-eve; and as we entered into the City, the great Guns went off round the City, in honour of the Resurrection. At Rome we all separated, according as our Business led us. CHAP. VI Another Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, by the Euxin or Black Sea; with some Remarks upon the principal Cities thereabouts. THere are three Roads yet remaining, leading out of Europe into Persia or the Indies. That of Constantinople, all along the Coasts of the Black Sea; that of Warsovia, crossing the same Sea at Trebisond; and that of Moscow, down the Volga, which has been amply described by Olearius, Secretary to the Embassy of the Duke of Holstein. In this and the next Chapter I shall describe the Way from Constantinople, all along the Black Sea, and that from Warsovia; not knowing any person that has hitherto mentioned any thing upon this subject. And first of all I will give a short Description of the principal Places that lie upon that Sea, as well upon the side of Europe as of Asia, with the just distances of one Place from another. The principal Cities upon the Black Sea, on the Coast of Europe. From Constantinople to Varna they count it two hundred Miles, four of which make an Alman League; miles 200 From Varna to Balshinké, miles 36 From Belshinké to Bengali, miles 70 From Bengali to Constance, miles 60 From Constance to Queli, miles 25 Near to this City of Queli the great Arm of Danow throws itself into the Black Sea. Here is the grand Fishery for Sturgeon. From Queli to Aquerman, miles 50 The City of Aquerman belongs to a Can of the lesser Tartary; but it is not the place of his residence, for he keeps his Court at Basha-Serrail, twenty-five miles up in the Land. From Aquerman to Kefet or Kaffa, miles 350 This is a great City, and a place of great Trade, wherein there are above a thousand Families of the Armenians, and about five hundred Greeks. They have every one their Bishop, and several Churches. St. Peter's is the biggest, very large and very beautiful; but it falls to decay, because the Christians have not Wealth enough to repair it. Every Christian above fifteen years of age, pays a Piastre and a half tribute to the Grand Signior, who is Lord of the City; and he sends a Bashae that lives in the ancient City called Frink-Hessar. However the Can of the Lesser Tartary extends his Jurisdiction as far as the Gates of Kaffa. From Kaffa to Assaque, miles 70 Assaque is the last City in Europe, belonging also to the Grand Signior. By it runs a great River of the same name, the other side being in the Territories of the Duke of Muscovy. Down this River come the Cossacks that do so much mischief to the Turks. For sometimes they come with threescore or fourscore Gelia's which are a kind of Brigantines, the bigger sort of which carry a hundred and fifty men, the less a hundred. Sometimes they divide themselves into two parts, one of which makes Havoc toward Constantinople, the other Ravages the Coast of Asia, as far as Trebizond. The Coast of Europe bordering upon the Black Sea is 861 miles in length. The chief Cities upon the Black Sea on the Coast of Asia, which is 1170 miles in length. From Constantinople to Neapoli, miles 250 In this City are made the greatest part of the Galleys and Vessels that belong to the Grand Signior. From Neapoli to Sinabe, miles 250 From Sinabe to Ouma, miles 240 From Ouma to Kerason, miles 150 From Kerason to Trebisond, miles 80 From Trebisond to Rise, miles 100 From Rise to Guni, miles 100 The City of Guni belongs half to the Grand Signior, and half to the King of Mengrelia, with whom he keeps a good Correspondence, because the greatest part of the Steel and Iron that is spent in Turkey comes out of Mengrelia through the Black Sea. The only good Ports upon the Black Sea from Constantinople to Mengrelia, are, Quitros, Sinabe, or Sinope, Onnye, Samsom, Trebisond, Gommé. The Haven of Quitros is very deep, and the Vessels lie sheltered from the winds, but the entrance into it is very bad, which only the Pilots of the place, or they who have often accustomed themselves to that Trade can only find out. It seems that anciently there had been most stately Buildings round about the Port; and several noble Pillars are to be seen all along the shore, not to speak of those which have been Transported to Constantinople. Near the City toward the South stands a high Mountain, whence there flows good store of excellent Water, which at the bottom gathers into one Fountain. To go from Constantinople for Persia by Sea, you must embark at Constantinople for Trebisond, and many times for Rise or Guni, which are more to the North. They that Land at Trebisond go directly to Erzerom, which is not above five days Journey off, and from Erzerom to Erivan or Tunis. But there are few that will venture upon this Sea where there is no good Anchorage; besides that it is subject to prodigious Tempests, from which there are very few good Ports to defend them; which is the reason it is called Cara-denguis, or the Black Sea: The Eastern people giving to all things, mischievous and dangerous, the Epithet of Black. They that are Bound for Rise or Guni, go to Testis the Capital City of Giorgia, and thence to Erivan, for though the way be bad, yet it is far better and smother than the Road to Tauris. The principal places from Teflis to Erivan are these, together with their respective distances. From Teflis to Soganlouk, leagues 3 From Soganlouk to Senouk-kupri, leagues 7 From Senouk-kupri to Guilkac, leagues 7 From Guilkac to Daksou, leagues 6 From Dakson to Achikent, leagues 6 From Achikent to Dillou, leagues 6 From Dillou to Yazegi, leagues 6 From Yazegi to Bicheni, leagues 4 From Bicheni to Erivan, leagues 2 From Erivan you keep the ordinary Road to Tauris. CHAP. VII. The Road from Warsow to Ispahan, over the Black Sea, and from Ispahan to Moscow; with the Names of the principal Cities and Islands of Turkey according to the vulgar pronunciation, and as they are called in the Language of the Turks. FRom Warsow upon the left hand of the Vistula, the ordinary residence of the Kings of Poland, to Lublin, days 6 From Lublin to Iluove, days 5 There all the Bales are opened, and the Customers take Five in the Hundred for their Merchandise. From Iluove to Jaslovieer, days 12 This is the last City of Poland toward Moldavia, where if you sell any quantity of Goods, you must pay Five per Cent. From Jaslovieer to Yashé, days 8 This is the Capital City of Moldavia, and is the Residence of the Vaywood which the Grand Signior sends to govern in the Country. There they open all the Bales, and there is a Roll of what every Merchant ought to pay, which may amounts to Five per Cent. From Yashé to Ourshaye, days 3 This is the last City of Moldavia, where there is no Custom to be paid. From Ourshaye to Akerman, days 4 Here they never open the Bales, but they take Four in the Hundred. From Akerman to Ozou, days 3 Here they never open the Bales, but the Custom amounts to Two per Cent. From Ozou to Precop, days 5 Neither do they here open the Bales, but trust to the Merchant's word, and the Customs amount to Two and a half per Cent. From Precop to Kaffa, days 5 Nor are the Bales opened here, but the Custom comes to Three per Cent. Thus from Warsow to Kaffa the Journey takes up one and fifty days, in the Wagon, which is the manner of Carriage in those Countries. All the Customs amount to Eighteen and a half per Cent. to which you must add the Carriage, and Passage by Sea to Trebizond; where you pay three Piastres for every Mules-load, and four for every Camels-load. Observe by the way, that the Armenians do not usually take shipping at Trebizónd, but go to another Port more to the West, upon the same Coast, where they never pay above a Piastre and a half for a Camels-load. This Port, called Onnie, is a very good Haven; and there is another a little farther off, called Samson, which is no bad one, but the Air is unwholesome and dangerous. There is also another Road from Warsow to Trebizond, shorter by three days journey. From Warsow to Yashé, according to the Road already set down, days 31 From Yashé to Galas, days 8 All Merchandise is Taxed at this place, and the Duties are taken at Galas, according to the Note which the Merchant brings from Galas. Galas is a City of Moldavia. From Galas to Megin, days 1 The Bales are not opened here, but the Merchant pays three and a half, or four per Cent. From Megin to Mangalia, days 8 This is one of the four Ports to the West upon the Black Sea, and the best of all. The three others toward the South upon the Coast are Kavarna, Balgik, and Varna. At Mangalia they demand but half a Piastre for every Bale. Crossing from thence to Trebisond you have five days Journey to Erzerom. Now to the Road of Muscovy; which having been exactly described by Olearius, going into Persia, I will describe it returning out of Persia. Having led the Reader to Shamaqui, I will return home from thence. From Shamaqui to Derbent, days 7 Derbent, which the Turks call Demir-Capi, is the last City within the Jurisdiction of the Persians; by which there runs a River which is called Shamourka. From Derbent to Tetarck, days 8 By this Town runs a River which is called Bocan. From Tetark to Astracan they hire small Barks with a dozen Oars. All along the shore the Osiers grow so very thick, that they afford shelter for the Barks in fowl weather. If the Wind serve they will put up a little Sail and be at Astracan in four or five hours; but if they only Row, they cannot be there in nine. When you Embark upon the Caspian Sea, where you only creep along by the shore, you must provide yourself with Water for the three first days, in regard the Water is bitter and ill tasted all along the Coast all that while; but for the rest of the Voyage it is very good. If you carry heavy Goods, you may hire large Boats to save charges. When you come to Astracan you unlade your Goods; at what time the Officer comes, and sealing up every Bale, causes them to be sent to the Merchant's lodging. Three days after the Customer comes to open the Bales, and takes five per Cent. If the Merchant happen to want money, and takes it up at Astracan to pay again at Moscow, he pays sometimes thirty per Cent, according to the rate of Gold Ducats. If a Merchant have any Diamonds or any other Jewels, and let it be known, he pays five per Cent. But if a Merchant have any Jewels or any other rarities, and tells the Governor that he intends to carry them to the Grand Duke; the Governor sends a Convoy with him either by Land or Water, that costs him nothing; and moreover sends a Courier before to the Court to give notice of his coming. There is very good Wine at Astracan, but better at Shamaqui, where I advise the Traveller to provide himself. From Astracan to Moscow you take Shipping in great Barks that make use both of Oars and Sails rowing against the Tide, and weigh what ever you put aboard, to a very Coverlet. Generally you pay for every pound fourteen Caya, or three Abasses and a half, and an Abassi makes eighteen Sous and three Deniers. In Muscovy they reckon the way neither by leagues nor miles, but by Shagerons, five of which make an Italian mile. From Astracan to Courmija, Shagerons' 300 From Courmija to Sariza, sha. 200 From Sariza to Sarataf, sha. 350 From Sarataf to Samarat, sha. 200 From Samarat to Semiriskat, sha. 300 From Semiriskat to Coulombe, sha. 150 From Coulombe to Casan, sha. 200 This is a great City with a stout Fortress. From Casan to Sabouk-sha, sha. 200 From Sabouk-sha to Godamijan, sha. 120 From Godamijan to Niguina, sha. 280 Niguina is a large and well Fortified Castle. From Niguina to Mouron, sha. 300 From Mouron to Casin, sha. 100 From Casin to Moscow, sha. 250 So that from Astracan to Moscow they count it sha. which makes 590 Italian miles. 2950 At Sarataf you may go ashore, and so by Land to Moscow. When the Snow is gone you travel in Wagons, but when the Snow lies, in Sledges. If a man be alone, and that his Goods weigh not above two hundred pounds Paris weight, they put them into two Bales; and laying them upon the Horses back set the man in the middle, paying for Carriage as much as from Astracan to Moscow. From Sarataf by Land to Inserat, days 10 From Inserat to Tymnek, days 6 From Tymnek to Canquerma, days 8 From Canquerma to Volodimer, days 6 Volodimer is a City bigger than Constantinople, where stands a fair Church upon a Mountain in the City, having been formerly the residence of the Emperors themselves. From Volodimer to Moscow, days 5 In all, days 35 Observe by the way that they never go ashore at Serataf but in case of necessity, when the River gins to be Frozen. For from Serataf to Inserat is a Journey of ten days, in all which time there is nothing to be had, either for Horse or Man. The Custom is the same at Moscow as at Astracan, that is Five per Cent. All the asiatics, Turks, Persians, Armenians, and others, lodge in a sort of Inns: but the Europeans lie in a place by themselves altogether. The Names of some Cities and places belonging to the Empire of the Grand Signior, as they are vulgarly called, and in Turkish. COnstantinople after it was taken by Mahomet the second, the twentyseventh of May, 1453. was called by the Turks Istam-Bol; Istam signifying Security, and Bol, Spacious, large, or great, as much as to say, Great Security. Vulgar. Turkish. Adrianople, Edrené. Burse, Brousa. Belgrade, Beligrade. Buda, Boudim. Grand Cairo, Mesr. Alexandretta in Egypt, Iskendrié. Mecca, Meqquie. Balsara, Basra. Babylon, Bagdat. Nineveh, Moussoul. Nisibis, Nisbin. Edessa, Ourfa. Tiqueranger, Diarbequir. Eva-togea, Tokat. Teve Toupolis, Erzerom. Shamiramager, Van. Jerusalem, Koutsheriff. Damas', Cam. Tripoli in Syria, Cam Taraboulous. Aleppo, Haleb. Tripoli in Barbary, Taraboulous. Tunis, Tunis. Algiers, Gezaiir. Candy, Guirir. Rhodes, Rhodes. Cyprus, Kebres. Chio, Sakes. Methelin, Medilli. Smyrna, Izmir. Troy, Eski Istamboul. Lemnos, Limio. Tenedos, Bogge-adasi. Negropont, Eghirbos. The Dardanels, Bogaz-ki. Athens, Atina. Barut, Biroult. Said, Saida. Tyre, Sour. St. John of Dacres, Acra. Antioch, Antexia. Trebizond, Tarabozan. Sinopus, Sinap. In the Fortress of Sinopus, at the lower part of the Wall there is a Stone to be seen, where there is an Inscription in Latin abbreviated, with the word Rome in it; whence some conjecture may be made that the Romans built it. The Mediterranean Sea, Akdeniis. The Ocean, Derijay Mouhiit. The Black Sea, Kara-Deniis. CHAP. VIII. Remarks upon the Trade of the Island of Candy and the principal Isles of the Archipelago, as also upon some of the Cities of Greece adjoining; with a particular Relation of the present Condition of the Grand Signor's Galleys, belonging as well to the Isles as to the Continent. Of the ISLAND of CANDY. OUT of the Island of Candy Strangers export great store of Wheat and Salad-oil, all sorts of Pulse, Cheese, yellow Wax, Cottons, Silks, but more especially Malmsey, wherein consists its chiefest Trade. When Vintage draws near, the Countrypeople that are to gather the Grapes wrap their Feet in a piece of a Boar's Skin, which they tie together upon the upper part of the Foot with a piece of Packthread, to preserve their Feet from the violent heat of the Rocks upon which they are to tread. Those Skins are brought out of Russia by the Russes, that bring Botargo and Caviar to Constantinople, where they have a vast vent for it all over Turkey, Persia, and Ethiopia; where they that follow the Greek and Armenian Church, eat little or nothing else all the Lent. By the way take notice, that the Turks make a certain Glue out of Sturgeon, which is the best in the World, so that whatever is fastened with it, will rather break in another place than where it is glued. They make it thus: When they have caught a Sturgeon, they pull out his Guts, and then there remains a Skin that covers the Flesh; this Skin they take off from the head to the belly. It is very clammy, and about the thickness of two Sheets of Paper, which they roll as thick as a Man's Arm, and let it dry in the Sun. When they use it, they beat it with a Mallet, and when it is well beaten they break it into pieces, and steep it in Water for half an hour in a little Pot. When the Venetians were Masters of Candy, they that had committed any Crime which deserved Death, if they could get out of the Island before they were apprehended, went directly to Constantinopole, to beg their pardon. For you must know, that no person but the Ambassador of the Commonwealth of Venice had the Privilege to pardon Crimes committed in Candy. For example, when Signior Dervisano was Ambassador for the Commonwealth of Venice at Constantinople, a Candiot having a desire to lie with a Woman by force, she told him she would sooner eat her Child's Liver than yield to his Lust. Whereupon, the Villain enraged he could not compass his design, took his opportunity, killed the Child, cut out the Liver, and made the Mother eat it, and then slew the Mother also. Upon this he fled to Constantinople, to beg pardon of the Ambassador, and obtained it there: But the Ambassador at the same time wrote word to the Governor of Candy to put him to death at his return; having only granted him his Pardon, to preserve his Privilege. And indeed, to speak truth, the Candiots are the most wretched people under Heaven. Of the ISLAND of CHIO. THE City of Chio, which gives the Island its Name, contains about thirty thousand Inhabitants; where there are little less than fifteen thousand Greeks, eight thousand Latins, and six thousand Turks. Among the several Greek and Latin Churches, the last of which hath continued ever since the time that the Genoeses possessed the Island, there are some indifferent handsome Structures. The five principal Latin Churches are the Cathedral, and the Churches belonging to the Escolantines, the Dominicans, the Jesuits, and the Capuchins. The Turks have also their Mosques, and the Jews their Synagogue. Four Miles from the City, near to the Seaside is to be seen a vast Stone, which was cut out of some Rock; it is almost all round, only the upper part, which is flat, and somewhat hollow; round about the upper part, and in the middle, are places like Seats, cut into the same Stone; of which there is one higher than the rest, like a Schoolmaster's Chair; and Tradition reports that this was Homer's School, where he taught his Scholars. In this Island there is such an infinite number of Partridges, that the like is not to be found in any part of the World. But that which is a greater Rarity is this, that the Natives breed them up, as we do our Poultry, but after a more pleasant manners, for they let them go in the fields all the day long, and at night every Countryman calls his own seuèrally home to Roost by a particular Note, whither they return like a Flock of so many Geese. There are great quantities of Damasks and Fustians wrought in the Island of Chio, which are transported to Grand- Cairo, and to all the Cities upon the Coast of Barbary, Anatolia, and particularly to Constantinople. Three Leagues from the Island of Chio, upon a Mountain to the South there grows a peculiar sort of Trees; the Leaves are somewhat like a Myrtle, their Branches so long that they creep upon the ground; but which is more wonderful, that when they are down, they rise again of themselves. From the beginning of May to the end of June, the Inhabitants take great care to keep the Earth under the Tree very clean; for during those two Months there issues out a certain Gum from the joints of the Branches, which drops upon the ground; this is that which we call Mastic, and the Turks, Sakes, according to the Name which they give the Island. The Island produces great store of this Mastic, which is spent in the Seraglio of Constantinople, where the Women continually chew it, to cleanse and keep their Teeth white. When the Mastic Season draws near, the Grand Signior every year sends a certain number of Bestangi's to take care that it be not exported, but be preserved for the use of the Seraglio. If it be a plentiful year for Mastic the Bestangi's that cull out the lesser sort to sell, put it into little Bags and seal it up; which Bags being so sealed, are never questioned by the Custom-house Officers. The Island also yields very good Turpentine. Of the ISLAND of NAXIS. THere is not one Port belongs to this Island; the Vessels that are Bound thither for Trade, being forced to stay in the Haven of the Isle of Paros, called Derion six miles from Naxis, which is one of the best Havens in the Archipelago, able to contain a thousand Ships. There are the ruins of a Wall still to be seen that made a Mole, where four or five Galleys might ride. There are also the ruins of several Houses of the ancient Dukes, the Stables standing almost whole, all Arched, and built of Marble. These Dukes were also Lords of twelve other Islands. As for the Island itself, it is well stored with Villages, and has three good Cities, Barequa, Qüsa, and Falet. Near this Island within a stones throw, there is a curious piece of Antiquity still to be seen. It is a flat Rock, as big about in compass as the ancient Court of the Lovure. In the middle of this Rock it was that the Temple of Bacchus was built all of Marble, of which there is nothing but the Foundations that remain. The Gate is still standing made of three Stones, whereof two make the sides, and the third lies across. From the Isle to this Rock there is a fair Stone Bridge of Freestone, upon each side whereof are to be seen the Pipes that conveyed the Wine into the Temple, that was drank at the Feast of Bacchus. Naxis also is the Island that produces the best Emeril. As to the Inhabitants themselves, if the Husband or Wife happens to die, the Survivor never stirs out of the House in six Months after, upon any business how urgent soever, no not to hear Mass. There are both Latins and Greeks in the Island, but the latter are the most numerous. There is a Latin Archbishop, and Canons belonging to the Metropolitan Church, with two Religious Houses, one of Capuchins, and the other of Jesuits: The Greeks also have their Archbishop. The Island of Naxis is sixscore miles in compass, being one of the fairest and pleasantest Islands in the Archipelago. The ancient Dukes made it their residence, whence they command the greatest part of the Cycladeses. There is great plenty of White Salt made in Naxis, and it produces excellent Wine both White and Claret, which caused the Inhabitants to build a Temple to Bacchus, who according to their ancient Tradition chose that Island for his Habitation. The Island produces excellent Fruits, feeds great store of Cattle, and abounds in several other things necessary for human support. There are also in it large Woods full of small Deer, and frequented by a great number of Eagles and Vultures. Here follow the names of the Cycladeses, as the people of the Country pronounce them. 1. Deloa or Sdilis. 2. Giaroa. 3. Andros. 4. Paros. 5. Nicaria. 6. Samoa. 7. Pathmoa. 8. Olearoa. 9 Sitino. 10. Rhena. 11. Miconoa. 12. Tenoa or Tino. 13. Sciroa or Sirrah. 14. Subiuma. 15. Syphnus or Sifante. 16. Nixcia. 17. Chios or Scio. 18. Astypalea. 19 Amorgus or Amorgo. Of the Islands of Zea, of Milo, of Paros, and other Islands of the Archipelago. ZEA is an Island wherein there is nothing remarkable, and from whence there is nothing to be Exported but Valanede, to die Leather withal. Neither are there any Goods Imported into it but what the Pirates bring in, which are very few, in regard the Islanders are careful to provide themselves otherwhere. Milo affords nothing but Millstones to grind Wheat, which are carried to Constantinople. Paros where there is no Trade neither, has nothing remarkable in it but one Greek Church, very well built all of Marble, called Our Lady's Church. As for the Islands of Sifante and Miconoa, in regard there is nothing of Trade in either but only with the Pirates, who sometimes touch there, if there be any Consuls that live there, it is only to buy their stolen Goods. Of the City of Athens, Corinth, Patras, Coron, and Modon. THE City of Athens is about four miles distant from the Sea, and contains two and twenty thousand Inhabitants, twenty five thousand Greeks, five or six thousand Latins, and a thousand Turks. Among all the Antiquities that yet remain, those in the Castle are the best preserved. The Castle stands upon a Hill, upon the North descent whereof some part of the City stands. It encloses a very fair and spacious Temple, built all of white Marble from the top to the bottom, supported by stately Pillars of black Marble and Porphiry. In the front are great Figures of Armed Knights ready to encounter one another. Round about the Temple, except upon the Roof, which is all of flat Marble Stones well ordered, are to be seen all the famous Acts of the Greeks in small carving, every Figure being about two foot and a half high. Round about the Temple runs a fair Gallery, where four persons may walk abreast. It is supported by sixteen Pillars of white Marble upon each of the sides, and by six at each end, being also paved and covered with the same Stone. Close to the Temple stands a fair Palace of white Marble, which now falls to decay. Below the Castle, and at the point of the City toward the East, stand seventeen Pillars, the remainder of three hundred, where anciently, they say, stood the Palace of Theseus first King of the Athenians. These Pillars are of a prodigious bigness, every one eighteen foot about. They are proportionable in height, but not all of a piece, being thwarted most of them by Stones of white Marble, one end whereof rests upon one Pillar, and the other upon that which follows it; which was the support of the whole building. Upon the Gate, which is yet entire, are to be seen these words upon the front without. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉. The City of Athens was assuredly the City of Theseus. Withinside of the same City these other words are Engraved. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉. The City of Athens is the City of Adrian, and not of Theseus. There are in Athens several other pieces of Antiquity which are well worthy to be seen. Corinth, which formerly made such a noise in the world, is now a Village of some five or six and twenty houses, but all of them the Habitations of rich Greeks. The Town lies at the foot of the Castle, which is seated upon an inaccessible Rock guarded by the Greeks, commanded by an Aga. Corinth Exports great quantities of Currants. Patras does the same, which is all the Trade of those two places. Coron and Modon drive a Trade in Salad-oil, which is so good and so plentiful, that several English, Dutch, and other Ships are unloaden away with it from thence every year. There are Consuls in Athens, Patras, Coron, Modon, and Napoli of Romania. The Athenian Merchants buy up Tissues, Velvets, Satins, and Cloth, with which they serve other Countries adjoining. The Commodities which Foreigners export from thence, are, Silks, Wool, Sponges, Wax, Cordivan-Leather, and Cheese. Which is all that can be said in few words, of the Trade of all these Places. A Particular Relation of the Galleys belonging to the Grand Signior, as well at Constantinople, as in the Isles and other Parts of the Empire. FOrmerly there lay in the Road of Constantinople above a hundred and fifty Galleys: But the Grand Visier perceiving that so great a number did but cause confusion, and that the Captain- Bassa could not conveniently take so great a burden as to look after such a number, he gave order that no more than twenty-four should lie in the Port of Constantinople; sending the rest to other Ports, as well of the Continent, as the Islands. At present the Number of the Grand Signor's Galleys is fourscore, thus distributed under the Command of their several Beys or Captains. At Constantinople, twenty-four under the Command of the Captain- Bassa, or Admiral of the Sea; who when he goes out upon any Expedition, sends to the rest to meet him according to Orders. When he goes in person to Sea, he gives to every one of his Slaves, besides their ordinary Habit a kind of Cassock of Red Cloth, and a Bonnet of the same colour. But this is only in the Admiral's Gally, and at his own Cost. His Galley carries usually 366 Slaves, and to every Seat of the Rowers, a Bonne Vole. These Bonne Voles are certain Volunteers that freely offer themselves to the Service of the Admiral, and there is great care taken for their being well paid. Their Pay is 3500 Asper's for their Voyage, which generally continues seven or eight Months. They feed as the other Slaves; but if they Row negligently or lazily, they are beaten worse than the Slaves; for the Volunteers have nothing to do except it be to Row: But the Slaves are put to several other Duties. Take notice also that the Volunteers that serve in the General's Gally, have 500 Asper's more than those in the other Galleys, that is to say, 4000 Asper's for their Voyage, which comes to 40 Crowns. The Rear-admiral carries Two hundred and fifty men, as well Slaves as Volunteers. That Galley and the great Tefterdar's or Treasurer's, are the best provided of any in the whole Fleet: For the Rear-admiral Bassa has his choice to take four of the best men out of every Galley for his own, or else to receive 3500 Asper's for every man, which is paid by the Captain of the Galley; which makes him the richest of all the Beys. The great Tefterdar's Galley is one of the Twenty four Galleys of Constantinople, and he sends a particular Treasurer, in the quality of a Lientenant, to command her. That Command is very much contested for, in regard that Galley is very well provided with all things; and for that all the Captains Court the Tefterdar, who, when the Galleys return to Port, rewards them according to their Merit. The Janizary-Aga's Galley is of the same number; but he never goes to Sea, always sending one in his room. The Bey of Rhodes, that takes upon him the Title of Bassa, has eight Galleys. The Bey of Stancho, an Island about an hundred Miles from Rhodes, Lieutenant to the Bey of Rhodes, has one Galley. The Bey of Sussam, a small Island near Scio, has one Galley, and his Lieutenant another. These Galleys are generally appointed to watch the Maltesi, and Ligorn. The Bey of Scio formerly had but three; but since the War with Candy, he has had six. The Lieutenant of the Bey of Soio has two Galleys. There be also three other Beys in the Island of Scio, who have no dependence upon the Bassa of Scio, but buy their Provisions where they can find it best cheap. The Bey of Smyrna and his Lieutenant have two Galleys; but they can do nothing without the Orders of the Bey of Scio. The Bey of Metelin has two Galleys. The Bey Cavale, a small Bay, twelve Miles on this side the Dardanells, upon the Coast of Europe, has one. The Bey of Nestrepont, seven. The Bey of Napoli in Romania, five. The Bey of Coron, one. The Bey of Modon, one. The Bey of Famagosta, six. The Bey of Alexandria in Egypt, five. The Bey of Canée, two Galleys. The Bey of Candia, one. The Bey of Castel-Tourneze or Navarin, two Galleys. All these Galleys make up the number of Fourscore. The light Galleys carry not above 196 men; the four men that are wanting of two hundred, being the Bey's profit. Every Captain is allowed thirteen thousand Piastres for his Provision; and every Christmas he gives to every Slave a pair of Breeches, and a Cassock of course Cloth, with a scanty kind of a Cloak. Every Slave has every day a pound and a half of good Bread, and nothing else. But upon Friday, which is the Mahometans Snnday, they have hot Pease, or Beans, or Lentils boiled in Butter. They receive also sometimes the Alms of the Greeks, when they lie in any Port. But at Constantinople they far somewhat better; for twice a week, as well the Turks, as the Greeks and others, come to the Bains, and be stow their Charity of Rice and other good Victuals. The Bains is the name of the place where the Seamen are kept when they are not at Sea. Sometimes when they are to go to Sea, they will counterfeit themselves sick or lame; but they are so narrowly observed, that it serves them to no other purpose than to procure to themselves the more Blows. CHAP. IX. a Relation of the present State of Georgia. GEORGIA, which others call Gurgïe, or Gurgistan, extends Eastward to the Caspian Sea; and upon the West is bounded by Mountains that part it from Mengrelia. Formerly it was a Kingdom, all the Inhabitants whereof were Christians, of the Armenian, and of the Greek Church; but of late the Mahometans have got footing among them. And the King of Persia having filled them full of Divisions, has made two Kingdoms of it, which he calls Provinces; over which he has placed two Governors. They are generally Princes of the Country, who must turn Mahometans before they can be admitted to that Dignity. When they are advanced, they take upon them the title of Kings; and while they have any Issue, the King of Persia cannot dispossess their Children. The most Potent of these two Kings, is he that resides at Testis, who in the Language of the Country is called the King of Cartele. The present King is the last that has continued a Christian, with his four Sons; the Eldest of which, the King of Persia having enticed to Court, partly by Promises, and partly by Presents, has won to Mahumetism. Immediately thereupon, he caused him to be declared King of the other Province. These two Kings have each of them a Guard of Mahometan-horsemen under their own pay; and at present I believe there are in both Kingdoms near upon 12000 Mahometan Families. The King of Testis coins Money in the King of Persia's Name; and the Silver which he coins, is in Spanish Reals, French Crowns, and such other Money, which the Armenians bring out of Europe for their Goods. As to the Justice of the Country, neither the King himself, nor the Mahometans have any thing to do with it. A thief is acquitted, paying sevenfold what he has stole; two parts whereof go to the Party robbed, one part to the Judges, and four parts to the King. If the Thief has not wherewithal to make restitution, he is sold: If the Product do not yet equal the Sum, if he have a Wife and Children, they first sell the Wife, and if that will not do, than they sell the Children: But if the Party robbed be so merciful, as to forgive the Thief his share, than neither the King nor the Judges can demand any thing for their share. If a man commit a Murder, they condemn him to die, and deliver him up into the hands of the Kindred of the Party slain, to do Execution as they please themselves. However, it is in their power to pardon him, if he be able to give sixty Cows or more to the next akin to the Party killed. In matter of Debt, a Creditor has power to seize upon all the Estate of the Debtor; and if that will not satisfy, he may sell his Wife and Children. The Christians of Georgia are very ignorant, especially in Matters of Religion. They learn that little they know, in the Monasteries, as also to write and read; and generally the Women and Maids are more knowing than the Men; not only because there are more Religious Houses for Women than for Men, but also because the Boys are bred up to labour, or sent to the Wars. For if a Virgin grows up, and happens to be handsome, some one or other presently endeavours to steal her, on purpose to sell her into Turkey, Persia, or the Territories of the great Mogul. So that to prevent their being stolen, their Fathers and Mothers put them very young into Nunneries, where they apply themselves to study; wherein, if they attain to any proficiency, they usually stay as long as they live: After that, they profess, and when they come to a certain Age, they are permitted to Baptise, and to apply the holy Oils, as well as any Bishop or Archbishop can do. The Georgians are very great Drinkers; and Nature has fitted them a Country that produces good store of Wine. They love the strongest Drinks best; for which reason, at their Feasts both men and women drink more Aquavitae than Wine. The women never eat in public with their Husbands; but when the man has invited his Friends, the next day the Woman invites her She-companions. And it is observable that at the women's Festivals there is more Wine and Aquavitae drank than at the men's. The Guest is no sooner entered into the Dining-room, but he is presented with 2 or 3 Dishes of Sweetmeats, and a Glass of half a pint of Aquavitae to excite his Appetite. They are great Feeders upon Onions and Herbs, which they eat raw out of the Garden. The Georgians are also great Travellers, and very much addicted to Trade; they are very dexterous in shooting with Bow and Arrows, and are accounted the best Soldiers in all Asia. They compose a great part of the King of Persia's Cavalry, who keeps them in his Court at peculiar pay, and relies very much upon their fidelity and courage. There are several also in the Service of the Great Mogul. The Men are very well complexioned. and very well shaped; and for the Women, they are accounted the fairest and most beautiful of all Asia; and therefore out of this Country it is that the King of Persia chooses all his Wives, being not permitted to marry a Stranger. Teflis, where the Women have more liberty than in any part of Asia, is the Capital City of Georgia, well situated, large and well built, where there likewise is a great Trade in Silk. CHAP. X. A RELATION of the present State of Mengrelia. MEngrelia extends from a Chain of Mountains, that separates it from Georgia to the Black-Sea, and is now divided into three Provinces (every one of which has their King. The first is called the Province of Imareté, or Bassa-Shiouk, the king whereof pretends to a superiority over both the other, which is the reason they are often at War, and that with so much cruelty, that when they have taken any Prisoners of either side, they fell them into Turkey. They are so accustomed to sell one another in this Country, that if a man or his wife have any occasion for money, they will go and sell one of their Children, and many times they will exchange a Child for Ribbons or other Toys at the Mercer's Shops. The second Province is that of Mengrelia, and the King of this Province is called the King of Dadian. The third is the Province of Guriel, the King of which Province is called the King of Guriel. The Province of Mengrelia was formerly subject to the King of Bassa-Shiouk, who sent thither a Governor, which is called in their language Dadian. One of those Governors being a person of wit and courage, gained so far upon the affection of the People, that they chose him for their King. The chief of the Province of Guriel, seeing how the Dadian had obtained the Kingdom, following the Example of Mengrelia, shook off the Yoke of the King of Bassa-Shiouk, and chose another King among themselves, who keeps his Sovereignty to this day, by the support of the Grand Signior. For when the Dadian rebelled he entered into an Alliance with the Grand Signior, and obliged himself to furnish him every year with such a certain quantity of Iron, upon condition that if the King of Bassa-Shiouk should war upon him, he should furnish him with twenty thousand Horse. Of which the Turk was very glad, finding thereby the Country of Mengrelia divided, which being united, was able at any time to have disturbed him with an Army of fifty thousand Men. The King of Bassa-Shiouk coins money of the same bigness and weight with that of the King of Persia. But in regard it is not so fine metal as that of the King of Persia, he would have much a do to make it pass in the trade between his Subjects and the Persians, which is very great, had he not found an expedient by putting the King of Persia's name upon the Coin as well as his own, which makes it pass without any difficulty. He would also put the Grand Signor's Name upon his Coin, but that the Turk coins none but small money, or Asper's, excepting only some Ducats which he coins at Cairo. The King of Bassa-Shiouk, as well as the King of Teflis coins all sort of foreign money. These three Kings of Bassa-Shiouk, Mengrelia and Guriel, are Christians also. And when they go to war, all the Ecclesiastical Persons attend them; Archbishops and Bishops, Priests and Monks: not so much to fight as to encourage the Soldiers. Being at Constantinople the first time I travelled into Persia I saw there an Ambassador from the King of Mengrelia, whose behaviour gave all the Franks occasion of laughter. The Present which he made the Grand-Signor was in Iron and Steel, and a great number of Slaves. The first time of his Audience, he had a train of above 200 Persons. But every day he sold two or three to defray his expenses; So that at his departure, he had none but his Secretary and two Vassals more left. He was a man of presence but no wit: and every time he went to visit the Grand-Visier, he presumed to wear the white Bonnet which all the Franks wondered at; when they saw that the Grand Visier winked at it. For should any other Christian have done so, he had been most certainly put to death, or constrained to turn Mahometan. By which it was apparent how much the Grand Signior valued the Friendship of the King of Mengrelia, and how careful he is of offending those that are sent from his Court. He knew those People suffer no affronts, but upon the least word presently draw; besides that there is nothing to be got by provoking them. This Ambassador going once upon a visit into the Country, returning home was surprised with a Storm, whereupon he pulled off his Boots and carried them under his Coat, choosing rather to go bare- foot to his lodging, then to spoil his Boots. Another time, it being the custom of all Catholic Ambassadors to go to Mass to the Covent of Grey Friars in Pera, upon St. Francis' day, the Mengrelian Ambassador after Mass was done, coming out of the Church, and seeing several baubles which the Pedlars expose in the Cloister upon that day, bought a Tin Ring, two or three small Looking-Glasses, and a Pipe, which he put in his mouth, and went piping all the way i'th' Street, as Children do coming from Fairs. But to return to the matter, you must take notice that there are not only Iron Mines, but also Mines of Gold and Silver in two places five or six days Journey from Teflis, the one called Soiianet, the other Obetet. But the mischief is, the people can hardly be got to work there, for fear the Earth should tumble down, and bury them in the Mine, as it has many times happened. There is also a Mine of Gold near to a place which is called Hardanoushé, and a Mine of Silver at Gunishé-Koné, five days Journey from Erzerom, and as many from Trebisond. As for the people themselves both Georgians and Mengrelians, they never trouble themselves about the ignorance and viciousness of their Priests, or whether they be able to instruct them or no. The richest among them are they which are in most credit, and absolutely give Laws to the poor. There are also some heads of the Church, that assume such a jurisdiction over the people, as to sell them both to the Turks and Persians, and they choose out the handsomest Children, both Boys and Girls, to get the more money, by which authority also the great men of the Country enjoy Married Women and Maids at their pleasure. They will choose out their Children for the Bishops while they are yet in their Cradles; and if the Prince be dissatisfied at it, all the Clergy joins with him that makes the choice, and then together by the Ears they go. In which Skirmishes they will carry away whole Villages, and sell all the poor people to the Turks and Persians. And indeed the custom of selling men and women is so common in that Country, that a man may almost affirm it to be one of their chiefest Trades. The Bishops dissolve Marriages when they please, and then Mary again after they have sold the first. If any of the Natives be not Married to his fancy, he takes another for such a time as he thinks fit, for which he pays her all the while as the Turks do. Very few of these people know what Baptism means. Only two or three days after the woman is brought to bed, the Priest comes and brings a little Oil, mumbles over a few Prayers, and then anoints the Mother and the Infant, which they believe to be the best Baptism in the World. In short they are a people of no Devotion at all, neither in their Ceremonies nor in their Prayers. But there are great store of Nunneries, where the young Maids apply themselves to their Studies, and after such an age, whether they stay in the Nunneries or betake themselves to the Service of any of the great Lords, they Confess, Baptise, Marry, and perform all other Ecclesiastical Functions, which I never knew practised in any other part of the World beside. CHAP. XI. Of Comania, Circassia, and of certain people which they call Kalmouches. COmania is bounded toward the East by the Caspian Sea; Westward by the Mountains that divide it from Circassia; Northward it lies upon Muscovia; and Southward it is bounded by Georgia. From the Mountains that bound upon the North-East to Tercki, which is the River that parts Moscovia from Comania, it is all a level Country excellent for Tillage, and abounding in fair Meadows and Pasturage. However it is not overpeopled, which is the reason they never Sow twice together in one place. The Climate is much the same as between Paris and Lion, where it Rains very much; and yet the Country people have cut several Channels from the Rivers to water the Grounds after they have Sowed them, which they learned from the Persians. Those Rivers fall from the Southern Mountains, being not at all taken notice of in the Map. There is one among the rest a very large River, which can be forded at no time. They call it Coyasou, or The thick water, in regard it is continually muddy, the stream being so slow, that they can hardly discern which way it runs. It falls gently into the Caspian Sea to the South of the mouth of Volga. Not far from this River, in the months of October and November, all along the Shore of the same Sea, you may see vast shoals of fish about two foot long. Before, they have two legs, like a Dog's legs, behind instead of legs they have only claws. Flesh they have none, but only fat with a bone in the middle. Now in regard they are but flow paced when they come upon Land, the Country people easily knock them on the head, and make Oil of them; which is the greatest Trade they have. The people of Comania, commonly called Comouches, dwell for the most part at foot of the Mountains, because of the Springs so plentiful in those places, that in some Villages you shall have above twenty or thirty. Three of these Sping meeting together, make a stream strong enough to drive a Mill. But this is not the sole reason, for there is Water enough in the plain. But in regard they are a people that only live upon the spoil and plunder of their Enemies, and of one another, as they are in continual fear of being set upon, they love to dwell near the refuge of the Mountains, whither they fly with their Cattle upon any occasion of danger. For all the people round about, as Georgians, Mengrelians, Cirkassians, Tartars, and Muscovites, live altogether by rapine, and continual Inroads into one another's Countries. There are another sort of people which are called Kalmouches, that inhabit upon the Coast of the Caspian Sea between the Muscovites and the Tartars. The men are strong, but the most deformed under Heaven. Their faces are so flat and broad, that there is the breadth of five fingers between each Eye. Their Eyes are very small, and that little Nose they have is so flat, that there is nothing to be seen but two little holes instead of Nostrils. Their Knees also and their Feet turn inward. When they go to the Wars, they carry their Wives and their Daughters, if they be twelve years of age, along with them, who fight as courageously as the men themselves. Their Arms are Bows, Arrows, and Skains, with a great wooden Mace at the Pummel of their Saddles; their Horses being the best in all Asia. Their Captain is of some ancient Family, but they more particularly choose him for his valour. The Duke of Muscovia sends them presents every year, to preserve their friendship, which presents consist in Cloth. And he grants them free passage through his Territories, when ever they have a mind to invade the Mengrelians, Georgians, or Cirkassians, at which sport they are much more dexterous than the lesser Tartars. Sometimes they advance into Persia, as far as the Province of the Usbeks, which is a part of Great Tartary, ranging up as far as Caboul and Candahar. Their Religion is particular to themselves, but they are great Enemies to the Mahometans. As for the Comouches or people of Comania, they are Mahumetans, and very precise ones too. They are under the protection of the King of Persia, who makes great account of them, in regard they defend the Passes into his Country on that side against the Kalmouches. They are habited both men and women like the Lesser Tartars, fetching all the Silk and Calicut which they use out of Persia; for as for Cloth, they are contented with what they make in their own Country, which is very course. Circassia is a pleasant good Country, and full of variety. There are Plains, Forests, Hills, and Mountains abounding in Springs, some of which are so large, that some of them will serve seven or eight of the neighbouring Villages. But on the other side, in all the Rivers that proceed from these Springs, there is not a fish to be seen. Flowers they have in abundance, especially fair Tulips. There is a sort of Strawberry also with a short stalk, of which five or six grow in a bunch; the least are as big as a small Nut, of a pale yellow Colour. The Soil is so fertile, that it brings forth without any great trouble a vast plenty of all sorts of Fruits. Nor do the people need any other Gardens than their Fields which are covered with Cherry-trees, Appletrees, Pear-trees, Walnut-trees, and all other useful Trees of the same nature: but their chiefest Wealth consists in cattle, but especially in well-shaped Horses, not much unlike the Spanish Gennets. They have also an abundance of Goats and Sheep, whose Wool is as good as that of Spain; which the Muscovites fetch away to make Felts. They neither sow Wheat nor Oats, but only Barley for their Horses, and Millet to make Bread; nor do they ever sow twice in the same place: not but that the Land is good enough to bear Wheat, but because they love Bread made of Millet better. They have very good Fowl, and Venison, and Wildfowl more than they know what to do withal; which they never hunt with Dogs, nor fly their Hawks at; for their Horses are so swift and so good, that they will tyre the Beast, and force him to lie down and yield. Every Horseman has a Rope with a sliding-knot ready at the Pummel of his Saddle, which they are so dextrous to throw about the neck of the Beast that gins to be weary, that 'tis twenty to one if they miss him. When they have killed a Dear, they cut off the legs, and breaking the Bones, eat the Marrow, which they say is the best thing in the World to strengthen the Body. When they go to steal cattle, they carry along with them great Cows-horns stuffed with boiled Tripes cut in small pieces; then watching their times when the Herdsmen are asleep, when the Dogs begin to bark, they throw to every one a Horn, with which the Dog presently runs away: and so while the Shepherds are asleep, and the Dog is busy to get the Meat out of the Horn, which is there rammed in on purpose, the Thiefs drive away what they please. The Drink of the Sherks is Water and Bosa. Bosa is a Drink made of Millet, as intoxicating as Wine, which they want in the Country. The Men and the Women, Boys and Girls go habited all alike, and their Habit is a coloured Robe of Fustian, with a kind of large Petticoat underneath; with this they wear a little pinked Waistcoat that reaches down to their Thighs; and over that a Cassock of course Cloth that reaches down to their Knees, girt about their Wastes with a Cord. The Sleeves of the Cassock are open below and above, and sometimes they pin them behind their Backs. They wear no Beards till they are sixty years of age. And as for their Hair, neither Men nor Women, Boys nor Girls, ever wear it longer than the tips of their Ears. The Men, both young and old, shave the middle of their Heads about the breadth of two Fingers from the Forehead down to the Nape of the Neck: and then instead of Hats or Headclothes, both Men and Women wear only a little Bonnet of the same Cloth as the Cassock, made like a Nightcap. 'Tis true, when the Maids come to be married there is some distinction upon their Heads; for than they fasten to the hinder part of their Heads a round piece of Felt, which they cover with a white Veil very artificially pleated. Their Breeches are tied below their Knees, and reach to their Ankles; their Shoes, which are of Cordovan, both upper and under Leather, have but one seam upon the upper part of the Foot, being light, and cut like a pair of Pumps. As for their Beds, they take several Sheepskins and sow them together, and then stuffing them full of Millet-leaves, make a kind of Quilt. Now when they beat the Millet, the Leaf comes to be as small as the Chaff of Oats; so that when the person rises off from the Quilt, the Quilt rises and swells again of itself. Their Cushions are of the same Make, only sometimes they are stuffed with Wool. The People are neither Christians nor Mahometans, all their Religion consisting in some Ceremonies which they perform with the greatest Solemnities which they can imagine: for at that time old and young of all Ages and Sexes, and all the whole Town must be there at the place appointed, unless impotency or sickness excuses them. I call them Villages, for in all these Countries their is neither Fortress nor City: and as for their Villages, they are all built after the same Model, round, with a Piazza in the middle, according to the Figure. THE PLATFORM OF ONE OF THE VILLAGES OF THE COMOU● CHAP. XII. Of the Ceremonies and Customs of the People of Comania and Circassia. THe Principal of all the Feasts which the Comouches and Sherks or Cirkassians make, is that which they make at the end of Autumn, after this manner. Three of the ancientest of the Village are appointed to manage it, and to discharge themselves of a Duty imposed upon them in the company of all the people. These three old men take a Sheep or a Goat, and having muttered certain Prayers over the Beast, they cut the throat of it: after they have dressed it very clean, they boil it whole, all but the Gathers, and them they roast. The Sheep being boiled, they set it upon a Table, and carry it into a large Barn, where the People are appointed to meet: There the three old men stand upright before a Table, and all the People, Men, Women and Children behind them. When the Table upon which the Meat stands, is brought in, two of the three old men cut off the Legs and the roasted Gathers, and hold them up above their heads, and the third holds up a great Cup of Bosa in the same manner, to the end the people behind may see them. When the people see the Meat and Bosa so lifted up, they prostrate themselves upon the ground, and so continue till all the rest of the Meat be set upon the lesser Table, and that the old men have said some few word. Then the two old men that held up the Meat, cut off two little pieces, and give each of them a piece to him that holds the Cup, which being done, they take each of them a piece for themselves. When they have all three eaten of the meat, the old man that holds the Cup, drinks first, then gives the two old men to drink, first to him upon the right hand, next to him upon the left, never letting go the Cup all the while. This first Ceremony being thus accomplished, the two old men turn toward the Assembly, and go and present both of the Meat and the Drink, first to their Chief or Lord, then to all the people, who equally eat their share, both men and women. That which remains of the four feet, is carried back to the Table, and the three old men eat it. This done, they go and place themselves at the Table, where the Mutton is set, where the oldest of the three taking the Head, eats a little Morsel; after him, the second, and next to him, the third does the same. Then the first old man commands the rest to be carried to the Lord, who receives it with a great deal of respect, and after he has given it to his next akin, or the Friend whom he loves best, the Head is given from one to another, till it be eaten up. This being done, the three old men begin to eat of the Mutton a bit or two, and the Lord of the Village is called, who comes with his Bonnet in his hand, in a trembling posture; to whom, one of the old men presenting a Knife, he cuts off a piece of Mutton, and eats; and having drank a Cup of Bosa, he returns to his Seat. After him, all the people, according to their turns in quality, do as much; and then, for the Bones the Children go together by the ears among themselves. They have another Feast before they begin to Mow their Meadows; at which time all the people of the Village, that have wherewithal, take every one a Goat, (for in their Ceremonies they esteem Goats better than Sheep) and for the poor, they join eight or ten together for a Goat. Let them be Goats, Sheep or Lambs, when they are all brought together, they cut their Throats, and then flay off the skin, leaving the four feet and the Head in it. Then they stretch the Skin with sticks that cross from one foot to the other, and set it up on a Pole fixed in the Earth, the top whereof enters into the head of the Beast, as is to be seen in the Figure of the Village; and as many Beasts as there are killed, so many Poles are planted in the midst of the Village, with every one a particular Skin upon it; to which, every one that passes by, makes a profound obeisance. Every one having boiled his Goat, brings it into the void place in the middle of the Village, and sets it upon a great Table with the rest. There is the Lord of the Village with his Servants, and sometimes the Lord of some other Village is invited. Now all this Victuals being upon the Table, three of the oldest men of the Village sit down and eat a Bit or two: Then they call the Lord of the Town, and if there be any other Lord, they come both together, with some other of the Seniors of the Parish; who being set down, eat up one of the Beasts, which the old men had set apart for them; the rest is divided among the people, sitting upon the ground. There are some Villages where you shall have fifty Goats and Sheep, or Lambs and Kids, killed together at one time. As for their Bosa, there are some that bring above 200 Pints; others more or less, according to their quality. All the day long they eat and drink, and sing and dance to their Flutes a dozen together, which are in some measure harmonious, as consisting of several parts, and decreasing proportionably from the Triple to the Base. When the old men have solaced themselves with eating and drinking, they go home, and leave the young people, Men and Women, Boys and Girls to be merry by themselves: They stay as long as there is any Drink; and the next day they go early to Mowing. They have other Ceremonies particular only to their Families. Once a year in every House they make a Cross after the Form of a Mallet, about five Foot high, the two Sticks that compose the Cross, being as big as a man's Arm. This the Master of the House sets in the Evening near the Door in his Chamber, and calling all his Family together, gives them every one a lighted Wax-Candle. Then first he fixes his own to the Cross, next his Wife sticks hers, and so all the Children and Servants: If the Children be so young, that they cannot do it themselves, the Father and Mother do it for them. If one of the Candles burn out before it be put out, 'tPrognostic that he or she that fixed it there, shall not live out their year. If the Candle falls, than he whose Candle it was, shall be robbed, or be forced to fly for his Life. If it thunders, all the people run out of the Village, and the young people of both Sexes set themselves to singing and dancing in the presence of their Elders: And if any one be Thunderstruck, they bury that person honourably, believing him to be a Saint. Besides that, they send over all the Country for a white Goat, which they breed up and keep in the Village where it happened to thunder, having it in great veneration, till thundering in another place, the people send for it thither also. If the Thunder fall upon any of their Houses, though it kill neither Man, Woman, Child, nor Beast, all that Family shall be kept upon the public stock all that year, without being tied to any Labour but of Singing and Dancing. These people, during that time, go from Village to Village Dancing and Singing at people's Doors, but never going into their Houses; for which the Inhabitants are bound to bring them out something to eat. There is a day in the Spring, when all that have been stricken with Thunder, meet together in the Village where the white Goat is kept; who has always a Cheese hanging about his Neck as big as a Parma-Cheese. This Goat they take and carry to the Village of the chief Lord of the Country. They never go in, but the Lord with all the rest of the Village coming out, they all together prostrate themselves before the Goat. Having said some Prayers, they take away his Cheese, and immediately put another in its place. The Cheese which was taken away, is at the same time cut into little pieces, and distributed among the people. After that, they give the Strangers to eat, and bestow their Alms upon them; so that by this wand'ring from Village to Village, they get good store of Money. They have among them but only one Book; and it is as big as one of our largest Folio's, and it lies in the hands of an old man, who has only the privilege to touch it. When that old man is dead, they choose another old man to keep the Book; whose Duty it is to go from Village to Village, where he hears of any sick people. He carries the Book with him, and after he has lighted up a Wax-Candle, and put the people out of the Room, he lays the Book upon the Stomach of the sick person, opens it, and reads in it, then blows over it several times, so that the Breath passes toward the mouth of the Party: Then he causes the party diseased to kiss the Book several times, and as often lays it upon his head, which is a Ceremony of half an hour. When the old man goes away, one gives him a Beef or a Heifer; another gives him a Goat; every one according to their Quality and Estate. They have also Old Women that take upon them to cure the Sick. These Women feel the body of the sick party, all over, but more particularly they handle and grope that part where the distemper lies: during which time they let go several belches out of their mouths, and the more sick the party is, the louder and thicker, they fetch their belches. The standers by hearing them belch in that manner and fetch such villainous sighs from their stomaches, believe their friend to be dangerously ill, and that the louder the Women belch, the more ease and comfort they receive; but whether they do or no, the women are well paid for their pains. When any one feels a pain in the Head, they send for the Barber, who gives two cuts upon the Head across with the razor, and then pours Oil into the wound. For they believe the Headache proceeds only from a wind beeween the flesh and the bone, for which the Incision opens a passaage to let it out. At their Funerals they that are the near Relations or Friends of the dead, some cut their faces, and other parts of their Bodies with sharp flints, others prostrate themselves upon the ground, and tear their hair; so that when they return from the Burial, they are all of a gore blood: However, notwithstanding all this affliction, they never pray for the Dead. As to their Marriages: When a young man has seen a Virgin which he has a liking to, he sends one of his friends to agree with her Parents or her Tutor, what he will give for her. Commonly the gift consists in Horses, Cows or some other sort of cattle. When the agreement is made, the Parents and Kindred of the party thereby contracted, together with the Lord of the place, go to the House where the Virgin lives and bring her to the Bridegroom's House, where there is a Feast ready prepared; and after they have made merry, and sung, and danced for a while, the Bridegroom and Bride go and lie together, without any other Ceremony. If the Man and Maid are of two Parishes, the Lord of the Village where the Man lives, accompany him and his Kindred to the next Village altogether, to fetch the Bride from thence. If a Man and the Wife have no Children, he is permitted to take several Wives one after another till he have Issue. If a married Woman have a Gallant, and that the Husband should come and find his Wise a bed with him, he goes away again without saying a word, and never takes any further notice of it. The Woman also in the same case, does the like by the man. Nay, the more Gallants a Woman has, the more she is respected: And it is a common custom when they fall out, to taunt one another, that if they were not ugly, or ill natured, or diseased, they would have more Admirers than they have. The People are of an excellent Complexion, especially the Women, who are extremely fair, and finely shaped, and keep their beauty till five and forty or fifty years. They are very laborious, and work themselves in the Iron Mines, which they melt afterwards and forge into several Tools and Implements. They make abundance of Embroidery of Gold and Silver for their Saddles, their Quivers, and their Pumps, as also upon the Calicut of which they make their Handkerchiefs. If the man and the woman happen to quarrel often together, so that they cannot be reconciled: the Husband complaining first to the Lord of the Place, He sends for the Woman, and having given order to sell her, giveth the Man another. But if the Woman complain first, the Man is served the same sauce. If a Man or Woman be a disturber of their Neighbours, if the Neighbours complain to the Lord, he presently causes the party to be apprehended and sold to the Merchants that buy Slaves, for they are resolved they will live in quiet. They that take upon them the quality of Gentlemen, sit still, do nothing, and speak very little. In an evening they ride out, and meet some twenty or thirty together to go a stealing. Nor do they rob only their Enemies, but their Neighbours, from whom the chief prey which they take are Cattle and Slaves. All the Countrypeople are Slaves to the Lord of the Village where they live, whom he employs to till his Land, and cut Wood for him upon occasion, of which they spend vast quantities. For not being very warm clad, they keep fire all night in the places where they sleep. CHAP. XIII. Of the lesser Tartars, called Nogaîes, bordering upon Comania. THE lesser Tartars have a very ancient race of Horses, which they breed up even to Superstition; so that it would be among them an act of Sacrilege to sell them to strangers, as being not a little curious how they sell them to one another. These are the Horses which they ride, fifty or sixty in a Troop together when they go a thieving; and sometimes a hundred together, when they design any Incursion upon their Enemies. When the old Men come to be infirm and impotent, if they know any stout young Man that is a Soldier, they will lend him one of their Horses (if he have none of his own) to make an Incursion, upon condition to have half of the Booty. Many times they run up as far as Hungary, near to Comora and Javarin. These Horses, partly by nature, partly by early custom, will travel four or five days together with a handful of Grass given them once in eight or ten hours, and a little Water every four and twenty hours. But they never go a robbing with them till they come to be seven or eight years old: besides that, they must undergo a very severe education ere they make use of them in those hardships. Their Bit is only a piece of Iron with a Buckle on each side, to which they fasten the Bridle and Headstall. For eight days together they put under the Saddle a bag of Gravel or Earth. The first day the Sack is a Horseman's weight; and so they add to it every day, till it come to be double the weight at the end of the eight days. As they increase every day the weight upon the Horses back, they abate every day the Horse's Provender and Drink. During these eight days, they get up and walk the Horse two or three Leagues. The next eight days, they abate every day of the weight, till the Sack be quite empty. Proportionably also they abate him of his Meat and Drink as in the first eight days, and every day take up the Gird a hole shorter. The three or four last days they afford the Horse neither Provender nor Drink, according as they find him able to endure hunger and thirst, and the labour which he is to undergo. The last day, they work him till he be all over of a Sweat; then they unbridle and unsaddle him, and pour upon him the coldest Water they can meet with. That done, they lead him into a field, and tie him by the leg with a Cord, at such a length as they intent he shall feed; yet still from day to day allowing him more Rope, till at last they let him lose, and feed with the rest of the Horses. This terrible fasting and labour, during which time, that little which they do eat and drink, they eat and drink with the Bit in their mouth, brings them to be so lean and out of flesh, that their very bones are ready to start out of their skins: So that if any one should see them in that miserable condition, that does not know the nature of the Horses, would think they would never be fit for good service. The hoofs of these Horses are so hard that they never shoe them, and yet they will leave the prints of their feet in the Earth, or upon the Ice, as if they had been shod. These Tartars are so curious in having Horses that will endure labour, that so soon as they see any handsome Colt in their Breed, they presently take him up, to school him as I have related: but hardly ten in fifty endure the tutor. As for their Diet, 'tis a great advantage for these Tartars to ride a Mare, in regard they drink the Milk. They that ride Horses, carry along with them a little Bag full of pieces of Cheese dried in the Sun; they have also a small Borachio of Goatskin, which they fill with Water where they meet with it, into which they put two or three bits of their hard Cheese, which softens with the motion of the Horse, the Borachio being tied under his Belly: and thus the Water becomes a kind of sour Milk, which is their ordinary Drink. As for their Instruments of Cookery, every Horseman has a large wooden Ladle hanging at the Pommel of his Saddle, out of which the rider drinks himself, and gives his Horse likewise to drink. They that encounter them, can hope for no better Booty than their Horses; but they are very hard to be taken; for when one of these Horses perceives that his Rider is slain, he follows those that fly with all the swiftness imaginable. Beside that, those Horses being carried into other Countries, are presently spoiled, and come to nothing. Their Clothing is only a Sheepskin, which in Winter they wear with the wool next their Bodies; in the Summer turning the other side. They that are the Nobility of the Country, wear Wolves-skins, with a kind of Shirt, and Breeches of course Fustian of divers Colours, which the Tailor gets little credit by shaping. Their Women are very white and well proportioned, but their Faces are broad, and their Eyes little, so that by thirty years of Age they become very deformed. There is not a man but has two or three Wives, which they never choose but out of their own Tribe. Every Tribe has a Chief; who is one of the Nobility of the Country, and carries for his Banner a Horse-tail fastened to a half-Pike, and died into the Colour belonging to the Tribe. When they march, every one knows where to place himself, and how much ground they ought to take up for their Tribe and their cattle; one Tribe never encroaching upon another. The Women and Maids are generally clad in a large Shirt that reaches down to their feet. Upon their Heads they wear a large white Veil, their Foreheads being bound about with a large black Handkerchief tied in five or six Rolls. The Noble sort of Women and Maids wear over this Veil a Bonnet open behind, which comes down upon their Foreheads like a three-cornered Cap: One of these Points stands up in the midst of the Forehead, lined with Velvet, Satin, or Cloth of Gold, and set with small pieces of Gold and Silver, and false Pearls, of which they also make themselves Bracelets: Their Breeches are of single-coloured Cloth, and for Shoes and Stockings, they only wear a Cordovan Boot of what Colour they please, neatly sewed. When a young man intends to marry, it behoves him to give the Father and the Mother of the Maid a certain quantity of Horses, Bullocks or Cows, or other cattle, which is done in the presence of the greatest part of the ancientest of the Tribe, and a Moullah beside. When the Agreement is made, the young man has the liberty to see his Mistress, but not till then: For before, he has only the information of her Mother, his Sisters, or such Women as were his own Friends. Besides the three Wives which the man is allowed to take, he may keep several female Slaves; but the Children are still slaves, and can never inherit. These Tartars are of a very hot constitution, though not so hot as the women. Both the one and the other are very fair-haird; but the men have little or no Beards: So that if there be any one that has more Beard than ordinary, and can but write and read, they make him a Moullah. These people have no Houses, but live in Tents, or in Wagons which are drawn after them wherever they go. The Tents are for the old people and little Children, with their Slaves that attend them. The young women ride in Wagons closed up with Board's, and to let in the Air, upon one side they open a Window that is made like a Lattice. In the Evening they are permitted to spend a little time in the Tents. When the Girls have attained to the age of ten or twelve Years, they never stir any more out of their Wagons till they are married, not so much as for the necessities of Nature; but in the middle of the Wagon there is a Plank to be taken up; and if it be in a place where they stay, a Slave presently comes and cleanses all underneath. The Maiden's Wagon is easy to be known, as being painted with Flowers; and generally there is a Camel tied to the Tail of it, besmeared with several colours, and several Nosegays or Posies of Flowers stuck about the Head of the Beast. The young men have also every one their Chariot, wherein they only carry a Borachio of Horse-skin, containing about 38 Quarts, which they usually fill with Mares-Milk, which is very sour. They have also every one another Wagon next to that wherein they ride themselves; wherein they carry several Boracho's full of Cows-Milk, which is very sour. At Meals they drink this Milk: But before they power it out, they stir it in the Borachio with a great Stick, that the Curd may mix with the thin Milk. But the Mares-Milk is only for the Master and Mistress, though before they drink of either, they mix it with water. When a Friend comes to see them, they fetch out their dried Cheese, which they call Kourout, and breaking it into little Bits, eat it with fresh Butter. At their Feasts they sometimes kill old Sheep, sometimes old Goats. But for their Horses they never kill them but at the Funerals of their Kindred, at the Birth of a Child, or at their Marriage-Feasts, or lastly, when their Friends return laden with Spoil from any incursion, and are stored with Slaves. They never drink any thing but Mares-Milk or Cows-Milk, and when they can get neither, they will endure thirst for three or four days together before they will drink Water, being always gripped with a terrible Colic when they drink it. They never eat any Salt, being of an opinion that it is naught for the Eyes. They live long, and are very strong, and seldom sick; nor do they refuse any Diet but Swines-flesh. Their Country is very level; only for some few Hills in some places. They have great store of Pasture-grounds, and every Tribe has their peculiar Wells to water their cattle. In the Winter they lodge upon the banks of great Rivers, near to Woods and Marshes, suffering their Herds to feed at liberty. When the Snow is very deep, the cattle scrape it away with their feet to come at the Grass, though they meet with very little else but Reeds and Bushes. In the mean while the men cut down the Woods, make great Fires, and employ themselves in Fishing. There are some parts of these Rivers where the least Fish they take is about four or five foot long; and some there are above ten or twelve foot in length. Some they dry in the wind, and preserve against Summer; some they smoke in holes which they make in the Earth: As for the smaller sort, they boil them, and eat them without Salt or any other seasoning. When they have eaten their Fish, they scoop up a large wooden Ladle full of the Fish-water and gulp it down. As for Bread, there is no talk of it in their Country. When they are not at Wars, or are but newly returned from any Incursion, they spend their time in Hunting; but cannot endure any other Hounds except Greyhounds: So that he must be a very poor Tartar indeed that does not keep a Greyhound. Take notice however by the by, that these petty Tartars, concerning whom I have last discoursed, are certain people adjoining to Comania, which the Turks, Persians and Mengrelians call Nogays; who may be well reckoned among the number of the petty Tartars, in regard they are all under one Prince, whom the Grand Signior appoints King over all Petty Tartary, and who receives his investiture at Constantinople. These Tartars are all Mahometans. Nor have they any Physician among them; making use only of certain Simples of which they have a traditional knowledge. When the sick person lies in any extremity, they send for a Moullah, who comes with the Alcoran, which he opens and shuts three times, saying certain Prayers, and laying it upon the sick person's face. If by chance the sick person recover, they attribute his recovery to the Sanctity of the Alcoran, and present the Moullah with a Sheep or a Goat: If he die, all his Kindred meet and carry him to the Grave with great Testimonies of Sadness, crying continually Alla, Alla. When he is interred, the Moullah mutters certain Prayers o'er the Grave, and is paid for his pains according to the wealth of the Heirs. For the poor he generally spends three days and three nights in that exercise; for the rich he as usually spends a Month, never stirring all the while from the Grave; and sometimes seven or eight. When any one of them is wounded, they use no other Salve but only boiled Flesh, which they apply hot to the wound. If the wound be deep, they thrust in a piece of Fat as hot as the wound can endure it; and if the person be able to kill a Horse, the wound is cured so much the sooner; for the Flesh and Fat of a Horse are much more medicinable than the Flesh of any other Creature. Were it not the Custom of the Tartars to buy their Wives when they marry, there would be fewer Whores. But in regard there are an abundance of poor young men that have not wherewithal to buy Wives, they never marry at all. This is that which makes so many Soldiers among them, and emboldens 'em to invade their Neighbours, and to get something whereby they may be enabled to buy them a Wife. For the Virgins they are never to be defiled, being always shut up in their Wagons: But for the Women they are often debauched, appointing their private Meetings, when they go to fetch water for their cattle, when their Husbands are a-hunting, or looking after their Herds. Nor is it a hard thing to conceal it from their Husbands, in regard the Tartars are not in the least prone to Jealousy. By the way take notice, that the Nogays, though they live almost after the same manner as the Tartars, and are under the same Prince, yet they perfectly hate them; reproaching them for effeminate, because they live in Houses and Villages, whereas the true Soldier should live in Tents as they do, to be ready upon all occasions. They that run afoot, as well in these Countries, as in Persia, when they are weary, take Walnuts and bruise them, and then rub the Soles of their feet with them before the fire as hot as they can endure it, which presently makes them fresh again. Having thus done with all the several Roads; here follows an Alphabetical Table of the Longitudes and Latitudes of all the Principal Cities of the whole Empire of Persia. THE LONGITUDES and LATITUDES OF THE Principal Cities of PERSIA, according as the Geographers of those Country's place them. A. A Amoul is in 72 Degrees, 20 Min. of Longitude, 36 deg. of Latitude. The Lands about this City abound in Prunes. Abeher, in 74 deg. 20 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. 12 Leagues from Casbin, a small City; but the Land is good about it. Absecun, in 79 deg. 15 min. Long. 37 deg. 10 min. Lat. A small City in an excellent Soil. Abdehil, in 60 deg. 20 min. Long. 36 deg. 24 min. Lat. The Inhabitants are most Christians, and there are many ancient Churches in it. It depends upon Sultany. Ahwaz, 70 deg. 15 min. Long. 31 deg. 15 min. Lat. A small City half ruined, in the Province of Belad-Cowreston, in a Soil that yields excellent Fruits. Arbella, 69 deg. 50 min. Long. 36 deg. 20 min. Lat. A small Champaign City, where Provisions are Cheap. Ardevil, 62 deg. 30 min. Long. 38 deg. 15 min. Lat. Ardeston, 77 deg. 10 min. Long. 33 deg. 7 min. Lat. Famous for the Copper Vessels that are there made. Arion, 74 deg. 32 min. Long. 32 deg. 25 min. Lat. One of the three places where Olives grow in all Persia. Assed-Abad, 63 deg. 40 min. Long. 34 deg. 50 min. Lat. A small City toward Amadan. Ava, 75 deg. 10 min. Long. 34 deg. 40 min. Lat. This is a very small place. Azadkar, or Yevin, 82 deg. 15 min. Long. 36 deg. 32 min. Lat. A City in a great Plain, where there are above four hundred Channels underground. B. Bab El Abab, or, the Gate of Gates; called also Demir-capi; or, the Gate of Iron. The Tartars call it Monjou: 75 deg. 15. min. Long. 45 deg. 15 min. Lat. It has been formerly a strong place. Badkeist, 85 deg. 32 min. Long. 35 deg. 20 min. Lat. A small, but most pleasant City, and well built. Baste, 80 deg. 15 min. Long. 29 deg. 15 min. Lat. A City in the Province of Kerman, where in Summer the Mornings are very cold, the Afternoons hot; yet the Air very good. Bafrouche, see Mahmeter. Beylagon, 63 deg. 52 min. Long. 41 deg. 20 min. Lat. A City toward the Caspian Sea, in a Country abounding in Corn and Fruit. Balk, 91 deg. 36 min. Long. 38 deg. 10 min. Lat. Three days journey from Moultan. Bem, or Bembe; 74 deg. 15 min. Long. 28 deg. 20 min. Lat. Thought to have been built by Caliph Mouktadar, near the great Desert of Bersham. Berdoe, 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 35 deg. 30 min. Lat. It lies surrounded with Pasture-grounds, which breed great store of cattle. Berzendé, 63 deg. 14 min. Long. 37 deg. 40 min. Lat. Here are made a sort of course Druggets for ordinary people. Beston, 79 deg. 15 min. Long. 37 deg. 20 min. Lat. It lies in a Country abounding in Corn and Fruits. Bimonoheer, 74 deg. 10 min. Long. 37 deg. 30 min. Lat. Here is great Trade for Silk. Bost, 91 deg. 28 min. Long. 32 deg. 16 min. Lat. A great City, to which belongs the fairest and strongest Castle in all Persia. Bourou-Jerdé, 74 deg. 30 min. Long. 34 deg. 20 min. Lat. Famous for Saffron, and for being the native City of many Learned Men. C. Chemkon, 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 41 deg. 15 min. Lat. Chiras, 78 deg. 15 min. Long. 29 deg. 36 min. Lat. Chirvan, or Erivan; 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 38 deg. 32 min. Lat. Here all the Silk- Caravans rendezvous; and it is one of the richest Kanats or Governments in Persia. D. Dankon, 78 deg. 15 min. Long. 30 deg. 15 min. Lat. A bad Town, in a bad Soil. Darabguired, 80 deg. 15 min. Long. 30 deg. 15 min. Lat. In several parts round about this City they meet with Salt of several colours, as red and green, black and white. Here they also make long-necked Glass-Bottles, which are very curious work; nor are they without Cider to fill those Bottles, in regard of the great plenty of Apples thereabouts. Near to the City there is a Sulphur-Mine, and great store of Mummy, very much esteemed in Persia. Debeston, 80 deg. 15 min. Long. 38 deg. 15 min. Lat. This is not properly a City, but a great many Villages joined together. Deras, 79 deg. 30 min. Long. 31 deg. 32 min. Lat. Devinmaat, 62 deg. 5 min. Long. 38 deg. 40 min. Lat. Din Ver, 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 35 deg. Lat. A City in a fruitful Soil, stored with Mosques. Doulad, 74 deg. 15 min. Long. 37 deg. 50 min. Lat. The Country about is full of black Mulberry trees. Dourak, 74 deg. 32 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat. Here they make the lose Cassocks without Sleeves which the Arabians wear. Near to this City the Rivers Tigris and Euphrates, meeting at a place called Hellá, make a Marsh, where grow the Reeds of which the Eastern people make their Pens. E. Elalbetem, 87 deg. 15 min. Long. 37 deg. 15. min. Lat. Eltiib, 70 deg. 15. min. Lon. 32 deg. 15. min. Lat. Enderab, 93 deg. 15 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat. Erivan, see Chirvan. Espharaïen, 81 deg. 40 min. Long. 37 deg. 15 min. Lat. The Country about it abounds in Pears and Apples. Estakré, 78 deg. 30 min. Long. 30 deg. 15 min. Lat. The ancient City in the Province of Fars, properly Persia; in a Soil abounding in Vines and Date-trees. Esterabat, 75 deg. 35 min. Long. 36 deg. 50 min. Lat. F. Ferah, 18 deg. 15 min. Long. 39 deg. 15 min. Lat. Built by Abdalla the Son of Taher, in the time of Maimon Reshid, Caliph of Berni-Abbas. Ferouzabad, 82 deg. 32 min. Long. 30 deg. 10 min. Lat. Anciently called Hourbecthion. G. Girefte, 73 deg. 40 min. Long. 31 deg. 10 min. Lat. One of the biggest Cities in the Province of Kerman. The Trade of the City consists in Hones and Wheat. Girrcadegon, vulgarly Paygon, 75 deg. 35 min. Long. 34 deg. 15 min. Lat. Goutem, 74 deg. 46 min. Long. 37 deg. 20 min. Lat. A little City, full of Silk-Twisters. H. Hamadan, 75 deg. 20 min. Long. 34 deg. Lat. The Country about it breeds great store of cattle. Hasn-Eltaf, or, The Centre of Beauty; 72 deg. 32 min. Long. 34 deg. 40 min. Lat. At this day almost ruined. Hawas, 75 deg. 40 min. Long. 33 deg. 15 min. Lat. Heaye, 74 deg. 35 min. Long. 31 deg. 50 min. Lat. Helaverde, 91 deg. 30 min. Long. 35 deg. 15. min. Lat. Built by Abdalla before mentioned. Herat, 85 deg. 30 min. Long. 36 deg. 56 min. Lat. A City in the Province of Carassan, where Sultan Heussein-Mirza founded several Colleges for Youth. Hesn-Medi, 78 deg. 45 min. Long. 32 deg. 5 min. Lat. Hessne Ebneamadé, 70 deg. 45 min. Long. 26 deg. 20 min. Lat. Hurman, 85 deg. 15 min. Long. 32 deg. 30 min. Lat. A small City, in a bad Air. I. Jemnon, 78 deg. 15 min. Long. 36 deg. 40 min. Lat. The Trade of it is in Copper Manufactures. Jend-Babour, 75 deg. 5 min. Long. 31 deg. 15 min. Lat. A very strong place, famous for the Tomb of Melek-Yakoub-Sha, King of Schiras. Irson, 80 deg. 35 min. Long. 36 deg. 50 min. Lat. Ispahan, or Hispahan; 86 deg. 40 min. Long. 32 deg. 40 min. Lat. K. Kaar, 78 deg. 40 min. Long. 42 deg. 32 min. Lat. Kashan, 76 deg. 15 min. Long. 34 deg. 40 min. Lat. Kafre-Chirin, 71 deg. 50 min. Long. 34 deg. 40 min. Lat. Built by Noushirevon-Aadel, surnamed the Just; and upon the acts and deeds of this King is all the Morality of the Persians founded. Kaien, 83 deg. 20 min. Long. 36 deg. 32 min. Lat. Said to breed the choicest Wits of all Persia. Kalaar, 76 deg. 25 min. Long. 37 deg. 25 min. Lat. One of the chiefest Cities in Guilan. Kalin, 87 deg. 5 min. Long. 35 deg. 35 min. Lat. In an excellent Soil for cattle and Fruit. Karkoub, 74 deg. 45 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat. Kasbin, 75 deg. 40 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. Kasre-le-lehous, or Kengavat, 76 deg. 20 min. Long. 33 deg. 35 min. Lat. Kazeron, 88 deg. 30 min. Long. 28 deg. 30 min. Lat. The Country about produces Oranges, Lemons, and Cypress-trees. Kerah, 86 deg. 40 min. Long. 34 deg. 15 min. Lat. Kerman or Kirman, 81 deg. 15 min. Long. 29 deg. 50 min. Lat. Kervak, 87 deg. 32 min. Long. 34 deg. 15 min. Lat. Kirmonsha, 63 deg. 45 min. Long. 34 deg. 37 min. Lat. Kom, 75 deg. 40 min. Long. 35 deg. 35 min. Lat. Kouh de Mavend, 74 deg. 15 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. the smallest now, which was once the largest City in Persia. Koucht, 83 deg. 40 min. Long. 33 deg. 20 min. Lat. In a soil excellent for Corn and good Fruits. Koy, 60 deg. 40 min. Long. 37 deg. 40 min. Lat. Kevachir, or Verdechir, 80 deg. 30 min. Long. 28 deg. 15 min. Lat. L. Lahijon, 74 deg. 25 min. Long. 37 deg. 15 min. Lat. The Trade of the Town consists in Stuffs, half Silk, half Cotton, called Teftile. Loussek, see Toussea. M. Maameter, or Barfrouche, 77 deg. 35. min. Long. 36 deg. 50 min. Lat. Mehrovyon, or Behbehon, 75 deg. 15 min. Long. 39 deg. 35 min. Lat. Meraqué, 71 deg. 20 min. Long. 37 deg. 40 min. Lat. It stands in one of the Gardens of Persia. Merend, 63 deg. 15. min. Long. 37 deg. 37 min. Lat. Mervasaé, 87 deg. 32 min. Long. 34 deg. 15 min. Lat. in a fertile Country for Corn and Fruit. Merverond, 88 deg. 40 min. Long. 34 deg. 30 min. Lat. in a fertile Country. Mesched, look Touss. Moukon, or Derbent, 20 Leagues from the Caspian Sea, 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 37 deg. 40 min. Lat. Mourjan, 84 deg. 15 min. Long. 37 deg. 15 min. Lat. A City well peopled, wherein there are several Mosques, and fair Piazza's. N. Nacksivan, or Nachevan, 61 deg. 32 min. Long. 39 deg. 40 min. Lat. Natel, 77 deg. 40 min. Long. 36 deg. 7 min. Lat. in a fertile Country for Pasturage. Nehavend, or Nahoüand, 73 deg. 45 min. Long. 34 deg. 20 min. Lat. The Country people aver this City built before the Loufon, or the Flood. Neher-Terij, 75 deg. 00 min. Long. 32 deg. 40 min. Lat. Nessah, 84 deg. 45 min. Long. 38 deg. 40 min. Lat. Nichabar, 80 deg. 55 min. Long. 36 deg. 20 min. Lat. O. Oujon, 61 deg. 35 min. Long. 32 deg. 24 min. Lat. To this City finely seated, belongs a fair Castle. R. Rachmikdon, 87 deg. 34 min. Long. 35 deg. 15 min. Lat. Rem-hormous, 74 deg. 45 min. Long. 31 deg. 45 min. Lat. In this City Selmon, Haly's Foster Father was born. Rey, 76 deg. 20 min. Long. 35 deg. 35 min Lat. In the best Soil of all Persia, for Wheat, Fruit, and Pasturage. Roudbar, 75 deg. 37 min. Long. 37 deg. 21 min. Lat. in the Province of Guilan. Royon, 71 deg. 36 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. in the Province of Mazandran. S. Saassour, 86 deg. 20 min. Long. 35 deg. 15 min. Lat. Saron, 76 deg. 20 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. In the Province of Guilan. Sary, 78 deg. 15 min. Long. 36 deg. 40 min. Lat. Seated among the Coppermines. Sebzevoar, 81 deg. 5 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. Near this City the people gather great quantities of Manna. Semiron, 71 deg. 30 min. Long. 34 deg. 40 min. Lat. A pleasant City stored with good Water and Fruits. Serijr-el-lan, 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 45 deg. 50 min. Lat. Serkess, or Serakas, 85 deg. 35 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. A pleasant City for Situation, and plenty of Waters. Sermeghon, 87 deg. 37 min. Long. 37 deg. 32 min. Lat. In a fertile Soil, yet not very plentiful. Serveston, 78 deg. 15 min. Long. 29 deg. 15 min. Lat. In a Soil abounding with Gardens. Servon, 79 deg. 15 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat. In a Soil abounding with Wine and Dates. Surjon, 74 deg. 40 min. Long. 30 deg. 20 min. Lat. Where the best Persian Carpets are made, and Shaads, or Girdles of Goat's Hair curiously wrought. Sohreverede, 73 deg. 36 min. Long. 36 deg. 5 min. Lat. Ssouss, 73 deg. 45 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat. Sultanie, 76 deg. 15 min. Long. 39 deg. 40 min. Lat. Where the Mornings and Evenings are very cold; all the rest of the day very hot. T. Taberon, 80 deg. 34 min. Long. 35 deg. 20 min. Lat. Talikon, 88 deg. 15 min. Long. 36 deg. 32 min. Lat. In a Country plentiful in Corn, Fruit, and good Water. Tauris, otherwise called Ssernerdehi, 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 39 deg. 10 min. Lat. Tebess, 80 deg. 40 min. Long. 38 deg. 15 min. Lat. Teflis, 60 deg. 15 min. Long. 43 deg. 15 min. Lat. Toukon, 82 deg. 45 min. Long. 38 deg. 40 min. Lat. Touss, or Meshed, 82 deg. 30 min. Long. 38 deg. 40 min. Lat. Toussea, otherwise called Loussek, 85 deg. 40 min. Long. 37 deg 50 min. Lat. Y. Yesd, 79 deg. 15 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat. Yevin, see Azadkar. Z. Zemma, 89 deg. 14 min. Long. 38 deg. 35 min. Lat. In a Country abounding in all forts of cattle. Zenjon, 73 deg. 36 min. Long. 36 deg. 5 min. Lat. Famous for its antiquity, and formerly the Persian University. Zertah, 79 deg. 30 min. Long. 32 deg. 30 min. Lat. The biggest City in the Province of Belad-Ciston, abounding in Wine and Shell-fruit. Your, 70 deg. 20 min. Long. 35 deg. 32 min. Lat. A City in the same Province. Zouzen, 85 deg. 15 min. Long. 35 deg. 39 min. Lat. In the Province of Mazandran. Zourend, 73 deg. 40 min. Long. 31 deg. 15 min. Lat. In the Province of Kerman, where there is great store of curious Potter's ware; where also grows the Root Hanna, with the juice whereof the Persians die their Nails, and the Breasts and Tails of their Horses. The End of the Third BOOK. THE FOURTH BOOK OF THE TRAVELS OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER: BEING, A DESCRIPTION OF PERSIA. CHAP. I. Of the Extent of PERSIA, and its division into Provinces. PERSIA, according to the present State of the Empire, to the North is bounded by the Caspian Sea; Southward, by the Ocean; Eastward it joins to the Territories of the Great Mogul; Westward, to the Dominions of the Grand Signior; the two Empires being parted by the Rivers Tigris and Euphrates. But that you may the better understand the full extent of the Dominions of the Persian King, you are to know, That this great Monarch, besides that Tract of Ground which is properly called Persia, possesses a vast part of the ancient Assyria and the great Armenia, the ancient Kingdoms of the Parthians and Medes, the Kingdom of Lar, the Kingdom of Ormus, and all Eastward of Persia beyond Candahar, almost as far as the Kingdom of Scindi. But because those Europeans that have Travelled before me, either were not so curious, or had not perhaps the opportunity to learn the true number of the Provinces that compose the whole Continent of Persia, I have undertake, though the Persians themselves are ignorant enough, to give the best account I can, finding it necessary for the better satisfaction of the Reader, to take some notice of the Names of Places according to the ancient Geography. The first is the Great Armenia, which our Maps without any ground or reason at all call Turcomannia; in regard they might have more properly called it Ermonick in general, since the Inhabitants are the greatest part Armenians. That part whereof which is situated between the two Rivers of Araxes and Cyrus, at this day called Aras and Kur, by the Natives is called Iran, or Carabag, being one of the most beautiful, and richest pieces of Land in all Persia; the principal Cities of which are Erivan, Nacksivan, Zulpha, and Van. The second is Diarbeck, formerly Mesopotamia, between Euphrates and Tigris; the chief Cities whereof are by'r, Car-Emir or Diarbequir, Ourfa, Moussul, Geziré, Merdin, etc. The third is Curdistan, formerly Assyria, extending all along the East-side of the River Tigris, from the Lake Van to the Frontiers of Bagdat; the principal Cities are Niniveh, Sherisoul, Amadié, Sneirne, Betlis, and Salmastre. The fourth is Hierak-Arabi, otherwise the Country of Babylon or Chaldea; the principal Cities whereof are Felougia upon Euphrates, Bagdat upon Tigris, Mershed-Ali, Gourno, and Balsara; and in the Country of Bourous, Sharaban, Eronnabat, etc. The fifth is Hierak-Agemi, or the ancient Parthia; the principal Cities whereof are Hispahan, Toushercan, Hamadan, Cashan, Can, and Casbin; and perhaps Yesd, if it be not rather in Kerman or Sigistan. The sixth contains Shirvan, all along the Caspian Sea, where stand the Cities of * Derbent in the Persian Tongue signifies ae Straight Gate, and Demir-Capi in the Turkish, ae Gate of Iron; near to which place were the ancient Caspian Gates, or Caspiae Pylae of the Ancients. Derbent or Demir-Capi, Baku, and Shamaki; and the Province of Edzerbaijan; wherein stand the Cities of Tauris, Ardevil, and Sultany. Which two Provinces comprehend the ancient Media within a very little, extending to the very Shoar of the Caspan Sea. The seventh contains Kylan and Mazandran, lying likewise upon the Caspan Sea, formerly Hyrcania; wherein are the Cities and Towns of Firuzcuh, Sukar-abad, and Mibnikiellé at the entry of the Mountains; Giru, Talara-pesct, and Saru, in the Plain; Ferhabad, Ciarman, and Gscref, toward the Sea. The eighth is Estarabad, formerly Margiana, which extends to the River Ruthkhané-kurkan, which the Ancients called Oxus; the principal Cities whereof are Estarabad, Amul, Damkam. The ninth contains the Province of the Usbeck-Tartars, comprehending all the ancient Sogdiana and Bactriana; the chief Cities whereof are Balk, Samarcand, and Boccara, etc. The tenth is Corassan, formerly Aria, with some part of Bactriana; the chief Cities whereof are Eri, Meshed, Nisabur, Thun, etc. The eleventh Sablestan, formerly Peloponnesus; the principal Cities whereof are Beksabat, Asbé, Bust, Sarents; the Territory and City of Candahar being also comprehended within the extent of this Province, together with Duki and Alunkan, upon the Frontiers of the Great Mogul's Dominions. The twelfth is Sigistan, formerly Drangiana; the principal Cities whereof are Sistan, Shalack, and Kets. The thirteenth comprehends all the Territories of the ancient Arachosia, bordering upon the Kingdom of Scindi, not having any Cities that we know of. The fourteenth is the Province of Makran, lying all along upon the Sea of Mogostan, formerly Gedrosia; the chief Cities whereof are Makran, Firhk, Chalak, and the Port of Guadel toward Guzerat. The fifteenth Kerman, formerly Caramania, extending as far as the Gulf of Ormus; the chief Cities whereof are Kerman, Bermazir, the Port of Kuhestek, and the Cape of Jasques. The sixteenth is Farsistan, or that part of Persia so properly called; the chief Cities whereof are Schiras, Caseron, Benarou, Firus-abat, Darab-guier, etc. To which you may add the little Province of Laraston, with the City of Lar, just against Ormus. But this Province formerly extended no farther than Benarou, two days journey from Lar, before Sha-Abas conquered the Kingdom of Lar, and then the Kingdom of Ormus. Now they are both united; though they have both several Governors, as they had distinct Princes before. The Ports in this Province upon the Persian Gulf are Bander-Abassi and Bander-Congo. There are two other little Ports in the Persian Gulf, about thirty hours' sail from the Mouth of Euphrates, but not capable of receiving any other than small Barks; which are very much to be admired; for in regard the Inhabitants are ignorant of the use of Iron, it is strange to see their Boats made so handsome and strong withal; the Planks being only tied together with a Cord, which is made of a kind of Hemp taken from the outside of the Cocoanut. The last is the Province of Cursistan, formerly Susiana, which Euphrates and Tigris joining together separate from Chaldea; the principal Cities whereof are Sister, anciently Susa, the Capital City of the Empire of King Ahasuerus, Ahawas, Scabar, Ramhormus, etc. The temper of the Air in Persia varies according to the variety of situation. The Country of Edzerbaijan is very cold, but very healthy. The Air of Mazandran is very unwholesome; for being a low fenny Country, and full of Infects, when the Waters dry up in the Summer, the Infects also die and infect the Air. Sometimes those bad Waters overflow the Country; in so much that the Inhabitants receive a tincture in their Complexions from the colour of the Earth. The Province of Guilan is included in the Province of Mazandran; and the Air is so unwholesome, that the People cry of him that is sent to command there; Has he robbed, stolen, or murdered, that the King sends him to Guilan? At Ispahan, which is almost in the middle of Persia, there are six months of hot, and six months of cold weather. The Snow falls three or four times in a season, and sometimes so very thick, that there is hardly any travelling upon the Road. About a League from the City, toward the Mountain, there stands a Stone about two or three Foot high, which when the Snow hap'ns to cover, prognosticates a plentiful Year; and the first Countryman that carries the news thereof to the King, receives a hundred Tomans. As for Rain, there is very little falls there, unless it be in April, and then it sometimes reins very hard. In the Southern Provinces, the heats are very excessive, and kill abundance of our Europeans, especially those that are given to drink. All Persia is watered with little Rivers; but there is not one navigable River through the whole extent of it, unless it be Aras, or the Araxes of the Indians, which carries some few flat-bottomed Boats. The other Rivers, instead of growing bigger, the farther they keep their course from the Springs, grow shallower for want of Water, by reason of the infinite number of Kreises or Channels, which they cut out of the Rivers to water the Lands, which would not bring forth so much as only Grass without the help of those Cuts; unless it be in the Province of Mazandran, which from September to March seems a kind of Terrestrial Paradise, through the pleasing variety of Herbs and Fruits. However, Persia in general being thus watered, is a most fruitful Country: though it be true, that many of their Springs and Channels are lost and broken. And Mirza-Ibrahim Governor of the Province of Edzerbaijan told me one day, that in the very Territory of Tauris, there were above two hundred Springs utterly lost, either by accident or negligence. As for their Gardens, they water them with Well-water, by the help of a Wheel and an Ox; but the running Water is much better, as not being so cold, and more fattening to the Earth. And therefore the Fruits that grow in the Mountains which are only watered by the Rain or by the Dews, are much better tasted, and keep longer. Persia is a mountainous Country, but for the most part the Mountains are very dry and barren. As for Woods, there are none in all the Country. Travellers are also forced to go a great way out of their Road to find a Spring; and sometimes they shall ride ten or twelve Leagues, before they meet with any Water but what they carry in their Bottles. There are some Mountains out of which they dig Salt, as Stones out of a Quarry. There are also Plains where the Sand is nothing but Salt, though it be not so savoury as our Northern Salt. Of late several Coppermines have been found out, of which the Natives make all sorts of Kitchen-householdstuff. Their Lead comes from Kerman; their Iron and Steel from Corasan and Kasbin, though not so good as that of Spain. Their Steel is very fine, with a smooth grain, and grows very hard in the Water, but it is as brittle as Glass. Neither will this sort of Steel agree with the Fire: so that if the Fire have not more than a double heat when the Steel is forged, it will look just like a piece of burnt Charcoal. The Steel which we call Damas-Steel comes from the Indies, and the Persians call it Gauherdar. There are also some Mines of Gold and Silver in Persia, wherein it appears that they have anciently wrought. Sha-Abas also tried again, but found his expense to be more than his profit: whence it is become a Proverb in Persia, Nokre Kerven dehkrarge nohhassel; The Silvermine of Kerven, where they spend ten to get nine. which is the reason that all the Gold and Silver of Persia comes out of Foreign Countries. CHAP. II. Of the Flowers and Fruits of Persia, of Turquoises and Pearls. THE Flowers of Persia are nothing comparable to our European Flowers, neither for variety nor beauty. For having passed the Tigris in the Road to Persia, you meet with nothing but Roses and Lilies, and some other Fruits peculiar to the Country. As for Roses, they have great store, which they distil, as they do Orange-flowers, and transport the Waters into all the Eastern parts of Asia. I never left the Court of Persia, but some of the Lords, especially four of the white Eunuches, begged of me to bring them some Flowers out of France; for they have every one a Garden before their Chamber door: and happy is he that can present the King with a Posy of Flowers in a Crystal Flowerpot. There are in Persia Apples, Pears, Oranges, Granates, Prunes, Cherries, Apricocks, Quinces, Chestnuts, Meddlers, and other sorts of Fruit, which is not generally so well-tasted as ours. Their Apricocks indeed, especially the lesser sort, are better than ours. When you open this Apricot, the Stone cleaves in two, and then the Kernel, which is only a small Skin, as white as Snow, is more pleasing to the taste than if it had been preserved. As for their Melons, they are most excellent, and very plentiful, neither is it so dangerous to eat them to excess, as ours. There have been some that have eaten six and thirty pound in a day, and have never been the worse. There is a prodigious quantity of them sold in Ispahan; where they are brought to Market, from midnight till four a Clock in the afternoon. Those Melons which are first in season, and are called Guermez, are insipid, and taste of nothing but Water. However the Physicians advise you to eat them, saying that they plump up the Flesh, and renew the habit of the Body. The next to the Guermez, are better than they, and they increase in goodness till they come to be quite out of season; the last of which they keep all the Winter long. Though they have such vast plenty, yet they never leave but one Melon upon a stalk, and when it is as big as a Nut, the Gardener, or his Wife, or his Children, lie down upon the ground and lick off the Down, which they say keeps the Melon from being sweet, and ripening kindly. The Persians have also a particular sort of Quince-Pepin, but not so good as ours, which they fry unpared, casting great store of Salt in the Pan to excite thirst, and then present them to their Friends at their Collations. They have also Almonds and Figs, but few Small-nuts or Walnuts. Oil they have none, but in the Provinces of Mazandran and Guilan, which furnish all the rest of Persia; but the Olives are rotten, black, gravelly, and not worth any thing, compared with Provence-Olives. Armenia, Mengrelia, Georgia, and Media abound in Vineyards. They bury their Vines all the Winter, and take them up again in the Spring by reason of the cold. In the hotter Countries they dress their Vines as we do, without any underpropping them. There are three sorts of Wines in Persia. That of Yesd is very delicate; that of Ispahan but ordinary: that of Yesd is transported to Lar, where there lives a great number of Jews, who care not to live but where they may have good Wine, and that at a cheap rate. It is also carried to Ormus, where it is sold half in half cheaper than the Wine of Schiras. As for the Wine of Schiras, it is made of one only Grape, sweet in taste, but which heats the Mouth extremely. This sort of Grape is called Kichmishé; it is a white Grape, without any stone, as vulgarly believed; but however it has a stone, though it be hardly to be perceived; which nevertheless will appear in new Wine, when it frets like a little Ligament. They say that the Wine of Ispahan is cold upon the Stomach, but that it fumes into the Head. For its coldness upon the Stomach I can say little, but I know it will warm the Head, if a man takes too much of it. In Persia they never keep their Wine in Tuns, but in great earthen Vessels baked in an Oven, either glazed, or else smeared over with the fat of a Sheep's rump, stopped up with wooden Covers, covered over again with a great piece of red Calicut, that lies over all the lids of the Pots. The King and his Lords have other sorts of Cellars for magnificence, where they treat such as they invite. These are four square Rooms not above three or four steps deep, with a Well in the middle, the floor being spread with Turkey Carpets. Now at the four corners of the Well stand four great Bottles containing twenty Pints a piece, the one of White, the other of Claret. Between the great Bottles stands a row of lesser Bottles filled, a Bottle of White, and a Bottle of Red. In the Cellar-Wall are several niches one above another, and in every niche a Bottle, still varied Gules and Argent; a very pleasant sight to good Companions in a Room, which is as light as day. As for Herbs and Roots they have very good in Persia, but above all, most excellent Roman Lettuce. But there is no sort of Pulse, nor can they find a way to make Pease grow among them. The Carmelites carried Asparagus, Artichokes, and Succory, which were never seen there before, but now begin to thrive very well. As for Turquoises and Pearls I shall speak thereof in my discourse of Jewels, toward the end of my Indian Travels. CHAP. III. Of the Beasts of Service; of the Fish and Fowl of Persia. THe Beasts for service in Persia, are Horses, Mules, Asses, and Camels. The Horses of Persia are but of an ordinary stature, less than ours, very narrow before, but very swift and light. They carry their heads very ill in running, by reason of the custom to which the Persians use them. For they have got a trick of managing their Horses, yet never getting upon their backs; they teach them to Amble by tying their feet with two Cords of an equal length, to the middle whereof are fastened two other Cords that are fastened to the Saddle, which two Cords keep their feet so, that they cannot stir but at such a distance; and so they deal with their Mules upon which the old men generally covet to ride. The Horses of Persia are very docible, and easily brought up. They give them nothing else from one Evening to another but a Sack full of chopped Straw, with a measure of Barley which they mingle together with the Straw, to the end they may eat both together. When the Barley is newly eared, they give it them for fourteen or twenty days together to purge their bodies, as we for the same end put our Horses to Grass in the Spring. The Persian Horses hold out very well till eighteen or twenty years of age; but they never cut their Stone-Horses in that Country. In the Winter, they never take off their Shoes, but only Frost-nail them. Their Furniture is very light and handsomely made. And this is further observed, that whereas we keep Goats in our Stables and Inns, the Persians keep Hogs. There are two sort of Asses in Persia. Those that are bred in the Country only serve to carry burdens; but there are a sort of Arabian Asses that are swift and very handsome, excelling in price the common sort of Horses. The Merchants of Ispahan keep these Asses in their Country Houses, taking it for a great piece of Grandeur to Ride every Morning to their Shops. Some parts of Persia are perplexed also with wild Beasts, as Lions, Bears, and Leopards, but there are but very few; nor have we heard that ever they did any great mischief. Porcupines they have also; and I myself saw brought before the King two men, the one of which was Shot through the Thigh, and through the Leg with a Porcupine's Quill. The second was killed, the Porcupine having darted his Quill a little above his right Pap through his Breast. As for their Fish, there are an abundance of Carp, Trout, and Pikes in the River Aras; but in all the other Rivers of Persia there is but one sort of Fish, which is a kind of Barbel. In the subterranean Channel which they bring to water their fields there is another sort of Fish very plentiful of bones, and as little as can well be eaten. Where the white Mulberries grow by the River side, so soon as they begin to bear fruit, 'tis very good pastime to see the Crabs, as big as the Palm of a man's hand, come out of the River after Sunset, and climb the trees to eat the fruit, and then by break of day return into the River again. They are delicate food, far beyond Creyfish, but a hot provocative Diet, as the Physicians well observe. During the Frost they bring from the Caspian Sea great store of Salmon or Salmon-Trouts, four or five Foot long. The Province of Media is well stored with Sturgeon from the mouth of the River Araxes. In the same Sea there is a certain Fish like a Carp, which they salt and dry like our Herrings. From the Persian Gulf comes nothing but Saltfish, which is transported over all the Kingdom. Their Fowls are much the same that we have in Europe, only I do not remember that I ever saw any Quails in the Country. As for their Pigeons, they fly wild about the Country; but only some which they keep tame in the City, wherewithal to decoy the rest: which is a sport the Persians use in hot weather as well as in cold. Now in regard the Christians are not permitted to keep these Pigeons, some of the vulgar sort will turn Mahometans to have that liberty. There are above three thousand Pigeon-houses in Ispahan. For every man may build a Pigeon-house upon his own Farm, which yet is very rarely done; all the other Pigeon-houses belong to the King, who draws a greater Revenue from the Dung than from the Pigeons: which Dung, as they prepare it, serves to smoak their Melons. Poultry is very plentiful in Persia; and the Armenians brought out of Europe the way how to fat Capons; the first so fatted they presented to the King, who liked them so well, that he ordered that the richest of the Armenians should be commanded to provide him such a number every year. There are no Turkeys in all Asia; but the Armenians trafficking to Venice carried some from thence, which when the King had tasted, he liked so well, that he ordered the Armenians to breed him up such a number, and to stock the Kingdom with them. But the Armenians, seeing the King would impose a new Tribute of Turkeys as well as Capons, grew negligent, and suffered the Chickens to die as soon as they were hatched. Thereupon the Persians suspecting the fraud, commanded the Armenians to keep the dead Turkeys, that they might be Judges how they came by their deaths: And it was my wonder to see so many young Turkeys hanging against the Walls of some Houses in Zulpha, that occasioned this Story to be told me. All sorts of Waterfowl are as plentiful in Persia, as with us. Upon the Frontiers of Media and Armenia, at a certain season of the year are to be seen a great number of Birds, much like to our Ouzels. Much about the same time the Corn gins to appear, but then is the ground covered with such infinite swarms of Locusts, that the Armenians are forced to betake themselves to their Processions, and to water the ground with a Water which they fetch a great way off, whereinto the Bodies of several martyred Christians were thrown. Three days these Processions and waterings of the ground continue, and after that, whether it be that the forementioned Birds do eat the Locusts, or only drive them away, in two or three days the Country is clear of them. As for Birds of prey, the Country wants none, Falcons, Sparrow-haws, Lanerets, etc. of which the King of Persia is very well provided, having above eight hundred belonging to his Game. Some of these Birds are taught to fly at the wild Boar, or wild Ass, or wild Goat; others at Cranes, Herons, wild Geese, and Partridge. The chiefest of which Birds are brought from the Southern Mountains, extending from Schiras to the Persian Gulf. The King takes great delight to hunt the Boar and Hart; and if it come to pass that the Game outrun the Dogs, than they let fly one of their Hawks, who presently seizes the head, and while she is continually pecking and disturbing the Beast, the Dogs are presently at his heels. The Hawks are taught to stop like a Horse at full speed: else they would never quit their prey, which they presently do, as soon as ever the Falconer shows them their reward. Now their way of ordering or making the Hawk is this. They take the skin of a Hart, head, body, and legs, and stuff it with Straw, to the end it may be like the Beast which they intent to represent in the nature of a Quarry. When they have set it in the place where they usually train up the Hawk, they lay meat upon the head, or in the holes of the eyes, to the end the Bird may be sure to seize those parts at his down-come. Being accustomed to feed in this manner for some days together, they fix the Beast upon a Plank with four Wheels, and cause it to be drawn with long Cords by certain men, that mend their pace every day, till at length it is drawn by a Horse at full speed, whereby the Bird is accustomed by degrees not to forsake her prey. After the same manner they sergeant all other sorts of Quarrys to enter their Hawks, as well wild Boars, wild Asses, as Hares and Foxes. Some there are that will order a Crow with the same industry as you would make a Hawk. They have have also a certain Beast which they call Once, which has a spotted skin like a Tiger, but which is nevertheless very gentle and tame; this a Horseman will carry behind him, and when he sees a wild Goat, he sets down the Once, which is so nimble, that in three leaps he will be upon the back of the wild Goat; though the wild Goat be a very swift Creature. The Once immediately strangles him with his sharp teeth. But if by accident the wild Goat get from him, the Once will stand still in the same place abashed and troubled, so that an Infant may take him and kill him, without the least resistance made in his own defence. The Kings of Persia take great delight in Hunting, and in that sport it is that they love to show themselves magnificent: Insomuch that Sha-Sefi desirous to treat all the Ambassadors then at his Court, which at that time were the Tartarian, Muscovite, and Indian, carried them along with him into the field, and having taken a great number of Hearts, Fallow-dear, Hinds, and wild Boars, he caused them all to be made ready to be eaten the same day: And while he was feasting, an Architect had order to raise a Pyramid of the heads of those Beasts in the middle of Ispahan, of which there are some remains to this day. When the Architect had raised it to a considerable height, he came very pleasantly to the King, and told him he wanted nothing but one head of some great Beast to finish the Work. The King, whether in his Wine, or to show the Ambassadors how absolute he was over his Subjects, turning briskly toward the Architect; Thou sayest well, said he, nor do I know where to meet with a Head more proper than thy own. Thereupon the miserable Architect was forced to submit his own Head, the King's Command being presently put in execution. CHAP. IU. Of the manner of Building in Persia. IN regard there is little Wood or Stone in Persia, all the Cities, except some Houses, are generally built of Earth; but of an earthen, or rather a kind of Potter's Clay, so well wrought, that you may cut it like Turf, being wrought to a just consistency. The Walls are made with lays of Earth, according to the proportion intended, and between every lay of Earth, three Foot high, two or three rows of Bricks baked in the Sun. These Bricks are made in a square Mould three singers thick, and seven or eight inches broad: and for fear they should cleave with drying in the Sun, they lay over them pounded Straw to keep them from chopping in the heat. They never lay the second Lay till the first be dry, nor is the second Lay to be so broad as the lowermost. Those Buildings which are made of Brick baked in the Sun are very handsome; and after the Wall is raised, the Mason plasters it over with a Mortar made of Potter's Clay mingled with Straw; so that the defects of the Building being covered, the Wall appears very firm and close. Then the Workman plasters the Mortar over again with a Lime mixed with Muscovy-Green, which he pounds with a certain Gum, to render the Lime more glutinous: and then rubbing the Wall over with a course Brush, it becomes as it were damasked and silvered, and looks like Marble. The poor are contented with only bare Walls, or some course daubing that costs little. The middle of the House consists of a large Portico, twenty or thirty Foot square; and in the middle of the Portico a Fountain full of Water. It is all open upon one side; and from the Portico to the Pond or Fountain all covered with Carpets. At every corner of the Portico is a Room to sit and take the fresh Air; and behind another large Room, the floor whereof is spread with Carpets, Mattresses, and Cushions, according to the quality of the Master of the House. Upon the two sides of the Portico are two other Chambers, and doors to go from one Chamber to another: and thus are the Houses of the great Lords built, but only they are more spacious. For their Houses consist of four great Parlours, that look toward the our corners of the World, and every Parlour has two Chambers upon each side, which make eight Chambers, that surround a great Hall in the middle. The King's Palace is also built after the same fashion: and generally the Persian Houses are very low, it being a rare thing to see one three Stories high. Yet all their Chambers and Rooms are arched, wherein the Persian exceeds us. For without all that trouble and time that we spend, they will presently raise an Arch so broad and high as easily demonstrates the skill of the Workman. The tops of their Houses are flat and terraced; being plastered with Earth mixed with Straw chopped very small, and well tempered; which they bind together with a layer of Lime beaten for seven days together, which makes it as hard as Marble, and if they want Lime, they pave the Terrace with square Tiles baked in an Oven, so that the Rain can do no harm. But they are very careful to shovel off the Snow, for fear it crack the Terrace with lying. Without the Houses show nothing, but within they are curiously painted with Birds and Flowers, wherein the Persians are no bad Artists. They take great delight to have several little Chambers, with several Doors, and Lattice-windows, the quarrels whereof are of Glass of various colours. This sort of glazing serves generally, and indeed more properly, for the Apartments where the Women may come. For they might have Crystal-windows if they pleased, but they glaze the void spaces in this manner, that their Women may not be seen; after they have framed the open place that gives light, like a Flowerpot with several Flowers in it, which the Glass of several colours imitates to the life; whereby it is impossible that the Windows should be peered through; besides, that it is pleasant to the Eye. The Doors of their Houses are of Chinarwood, which is very noble, and their Wainscoting is as neat. The Persians that love ostentation, always display their rich Carpets, Mattresses, Cushions, Coverlets, and all the most costly Furniture they have, in the fore part of their dwellings: For the Haram, or the Woman's Quarter is but meanly adorned, in regard they are never visited by any men but their Husbands. In some of their Rooms they have very narrow Chimneys; for the Persians set all their Wood upright which they burn, because of the Smoke; besides, they make but small Fires, in regard they have so great a scarcity of Wood When they would go to sleep, they lie down upon a Plank covered with a Carpet, and wrap themselves in a quilted Blanket. In the Summer they sleep in the open Air, upon their Terraces; and in regard the Women lie there too, there is an order obtained, that the Mullahs that sing upon the Mosquèes shall not presume to go up in the morning, because it might be their hap to see the Women as they lay; it being one of the highest pieces of infamy imaginable for a Woman to be discovered with her Face open. There are some Houses that belong to great Lords, that have a square place before their Doors, where they that come to visit them may put their Horses, to the end the Street should not be pestered. If you look upon the Front of their Houses, there is little ornament to be seen, unless it be upon some which have been lately built. CHAP. V A Description of Ispahan, the chief City of the Kingdom and Dominions of the King of Persia. ISpahan, Sphahan, or Sphaon, as the Persians pronounce it, which some Travellers have too unwarily affirmed to be a fine City, lies in the Province of Hierac, which composes some part of the ancient Kingdom of the Parthians. It is the Capital City of all Persia, and a very large place, where the King usually keeps his Court. The Records of the Persians declare that formerly it was two contiguous Towns, one part whereof belonged to Haider, and the other to Neamed-Olahi, two parts of Ispahan still retaining those two names, which has occasioned great quarrels and debates among the people, while they have both been eager to prefer their own quarter. Nor indeed could Ispahan be accounted other than a Village, before Sha-Abas had conquered the Kingdoms of Lar and Ormus. But then observing so fair a Situation, where he might as well be near the Provinces which he had newly conquered, as for the design which he had to extend his Dominions to the East and West, as he had enlarged them to the South, he quitted Casbin and Sultany to reside at Ispahan, as in the centre of his Empire. This City is seated in a vast plain, which extends itself three ways fifteen or twenty Leagues. Upon the South about two Leagues from Ispahan rises a very high Mountain, on the top whereof toward the West are to be seen the remains of a very strong Fortress, where Darius kept himself, when Alexander gave Battle to him in that Plain. In the side of the Rock is a Grotto, either natural or artificial, or both, out of which issues a natural Spring of excellent Water, where a Dervis usually inhabits. The Circuit of Ispahan, taking the Suburbs all in, is not much less than that of Paris; but the number of Inhabitants is ten times greater at Paris than at Ispahan. Nor is it a wonder that a City should be so large and yet so ill peopled, where every Family has its particular House, and every House its particular Garden. What ever way you come to it you may discover first the Towers of the Mosques, and then the Trees that environ the Houses, so that Ispahan seems rather a Forest than a City. The Plain being fertile is well inhabited, but there are no Villages in it, only three or four Houses in a place together. The Walls of Ispahan are of Earth, to which do belong some pitiful Towers without Battlements or Platforms, Bastions or Redoubts, or any other Fortification. The Moats also are as bad, neither broad nor deep, but always dry. In some places also the people have beaten down great gaps in the Wall, to get the nearest way into the City; yet they reckon ten Gates, which are but of Earth however, and of no defence; the chief of which are Der-Vasalsehab, not far from the King's Palace, Der-Tokshi, Der-Mark, Der-Vasal-Lembon, Der-Nasan-Abad, Der-Sha, and Der-Dekt. The Gates are made of Planks rudely joined together, and covered with plates of Iron four fingers broad, and as thick as a Crown, fastened with flat-headed Nails. The Keys are never carried to the Governor, but left with a silly Porter that opens and shuts the Gates as he pleases himself; for indeed there is no necessity of shutting the Gates when there are so many other ways into the City. The City of Ispahan is ill laid out; for the Streets are narrow and unequal, and for the most part dark, because of the Arches that go from one House to another, so that a man is forced sometimes to feel his way for two hundred paces. Moreover the Streets are many times annoyed with Loads of Ordure and the Carcases of dead Beasts, which cause a most filthy stench, and would be very infectious certainly, but for the wholesomeness of the Air. In the most part of the Streets are Wells, which are stopped up in Summer, and opened in the Winter to carry away the Rain and the Snow into the Arched Channels which run under Ground through the middle of the Street. There are also before every Door certain Troughs to receive the filth and ordure of every Family, which the Countrymen come and carry away to Dung their Grounds. Every morning the Countryman comes with his Ass to lad Dung; and it is observable that he is more diligent to carry away the Dung of the Armenians, Franks, and Jews that drink Wine, than of the Persians that drink none. And this is the profit of the Servants of the House that sell an Asses Load of Dung for five, and sometimes for ten or twelve Kasbeshé. The Streets of Ispahan, as of all the rest of the Cities of Persia are not paved, which makes them very incommodious both Summer and Winter. For in the Summer the dust puts out your Eyes, unless it be in the Streets where the great Merchants live, and about the Meydan, where there are people hired to water the Streets Morning, Noon, and Night. Those people go about the Streets also with a Borachio full of Water, and a Glass, with Ice in a Bag, to give them drink that desire it: Nor do they take any money, being paid out of the Legacies left by persons deceased for that purpose. In the Winter this dust turns to mire half the leg deep; though it be very true that there are very few people to be seen then in the Street; for in regard of the vaulted Channels that run through every Street, should the soaked Earth chance to fail under the Horse, it might endanger a Limb. Besides, the Persians are so superstitious, that they will hardly receive a man within their doors with a spot of Dirt upon his clothes, for fear of being defiled by him. You shall also meet with little Holes against the Walls of the Houses in the open Street, where the Persians are not ashamed to squat and Piss in the face of all the World. If there be any running Water in the Street, they take a little in their Hands and wash their Member with it; or if there be no Water, they rub it against a Stone or the Wall, which they take for a great piece of gentility and modesty. That which farther contributes to the nastiness of the Streets of Ispahan, is, that the Butchers throw the Blood and Excrements of the Beasts which they kill into the Streets. If a Horse or a Mule, a Camel or an Ass die, they presently throw him into the Street. True it is, that there are people who come presently to buy it of the Owner; who make Harissé, which they sell to the poor Workmen. This Harissé is thus prepared; they boil the flesh of the dead Beast with Corn, and after it is well boiled they mash it together, till it becomes like a Pottage. They also make Harissé of good Mutton; both which sorts they sell in the Marketplace, or great Meydan of the City. Though the City of Ispahan be dirty, yet there is a way for persons of ability to avoid it; for they never stir but on Horseback, with two or three Lackeys, called Chatres, that run before to make room. For the Men are all upon the false Gallop in the Streets, without any fear of hurting the Children: by reason that the Children are not suffered to play in the Streets like ours, but as soon as ever they come from School, they sit down by their Parents, to be instructed by them in their Profession. These Valets or Footmen make a Trade of Running; of which the King and the Lords have several in their service; it being a piece of grandeur to keep a great many. They serve from Father to Son, undergoing an Apprenticeship in Running. From six to seven years of age, they only set themselves to walk slowly. The next year they run a League at a time upon a handsome trot, the next year after they run two or three Leagues, and so proportionably for the rest. At eighteen years of age they are allowed a Scrip of Flower, with a flat piece of Copper to bake their Bread upon, and a Bottle of Water; all which they carry about them when they run. For these people when they are sent Post never take the Caravan-Road, but the shortest cuts through the Deserts, and must therefore accustom themselves to carry their Provision. The King and the Lords have no Chatres, but what are Masters; which degree they are not to arrive at without some Ceremony and performing a Race, like our Jemmy and the Butcher of Croyden. If he be a Lord that owns the Chater who desires to be a Master, he sends for all his Friends, sets up a Scaffold in the Meydan, provides a Collation, and sends for the Courtesans to divert the Company. Now there is not one of these Guests that does not bring something to give this Chater after the Race is run, either a Bonnet or a Girdle, or some other thing, part of which the Chater gives to his fellows. Then the Chater appears with his Legs greased, his Thighs bare, only a slight short pair of lose Breeches, and a Girdle with three little Bells hanging upon his Belly. Thus accoutered he starts from Ali-Capi, and between Sunrising and Sunsetting he runs backward and forward to a Stone a League and a half from the City toward the Mountains; running in that time six and thirty of our common Leagues, or a hundred and eight Miles. While he runs, there is Kourouk in the Meydan, and upon all the Road where he runs, and three or four Horsemen that continually ride to and fro, to see that there be no deceit in the Chater's Race; who when he approaches near the City, ride before to give notice of his coming. Every time he starts and returns, the Drums and Trumpets sound; at the end of the Race there stand several persons with Arrows in their Hands, and every time he comes to the Stone they give him an Arrow, which he carries back every course to Ali-Capri. Every time he returns, the Courtesans rub him and make much of him. All the time he runs, he eats nothing, but drinks Sherbet now and then. If he acquit himself well, which appears by the number of Arrows brought back, he is admitted a Master by the approbation of the King's Footmen, who are superior to all the rest. The Khans or Governors of Provinces run their own Chaters with the same Ceremonies, and in the same manner. The Fortress of Ispahan is nothing at all considerable. It joins to the Wall upon the South side of the City, and is twice as long as broad, but without any defence in the world, unless it be of some pitiful Towers made of Earth. Here it is that the King keeps all the Rarities which he has purchased, or that has been presented to him. For as to his main Treasure, I believe it consists chief in Gold-Plate. Within the Fortress there is a large Field, sowed every year with Rice and Corn; hard by which stands the House of the Capuchin-Friars. Ispahan in general, unless it be the Meydan and some few arched Streets where the Merchants live, is more like a great Village than a City; the Houses standing at a distance one from the other, with every one a Garden, but ill looked after, not having any thing in it perchance but only one pitiful Tree: true it is that they begin to build better of late days, but it is without the City. As for the Women, 'tis not a pin matter whether they live out of the City or within, in regard they never stir out of doors, and as seldom go afoot. The Meydan or great Piazza of Ispahan was the contrivance of the great Sha-Abas, who had never done it, if a great Prince of the ancient Race of the Kings of Persia had not refused him the old Meydan, with several Privileges, and the House that stood by it. Thereupon he designed this new Piazza, to draw off the Merchants, and to spoil the old Marketplace, by their departure from that quarter of the City which is less inhabited at this day. It is not far from this old Meydan, that the Austin-Friars on the one side, and the Carmelites on the other have their Habitations. There are also two sides of that Meydan entire, under the Porticoes, where sit only such people as sell Herbs, Fruit, and Victuals; the other two sides are almost fallen to decay; but when it was all standing, it was as handsome as the new one: and it is to be wondered, that the Prince, who built it, did not choose the place where Sha-Abas has built his, as being near the Water, and consequently far more convenient. The great Meydan then is a place about seven hundred Paces long, and between two and three hundred broad. It has Buildings upon all the four sides; it lies in length directly North and South; the Fronts are every one Portico'd, and Terraced at the top; and on the City-side are little Chambers nine or ten Foot high, which fall very much to decay, being only built of Brick baked in the Sun. They are inhabited, the greatest part of them, by the most infamous Courtesans of the City. At some Paces distance from the Porticoes, is a Channel which is paved with stone, and runs round about the Piazza; Sha-Abas caused several Trees to be planted by the side of it, but both the Channel and the Trees being altogether neglected, are fallen to decay; besides, that the smell of the Water in the Summer time is very noisome. In the midst of the Piazza stands a kind of a Maypole, or Mast of a Ship, where the people exercise shooting at Birds. When the King comes to shoot, they set a Cup of Gold upon the top of the Mast, which he is to strike down with an Arrow. To which purpose he must ride full speed, nor is he permitted to shoot till after he has passed the Maypole, turning himself upon the crupper of his Horse: a remain of the ancient custom of the Parthians, that killed their Enemies flying. The Cup belongs to him that strikes it down; and I have seen Sha-Sefi, Grandfather of the present King, in five Courses strike down three Cups. From this Mast or Maypole down to the great Mosque, they sell nothing but Wood and Charcoal: from the same Pole to the Sundial upon the North-side, are none but such as sell old Iron-Tools, old Harness for Horses, old Coverlets, and other old Brokery-ware, as in our Long-Lane. From the Pole to another Mosque, to the South, just against the Sundial, is the place for all the Poulterers. The rest of the Piazza toward the Palace, is always kept clean, without any Shops, because the King comes often abroad in the Evening to see Lions, Bears, Bulls, Rams, Cocks, and all other sort of Creatures fight which are brought thither. The people of Ispahan, as in many other Cities, are divided into two parts, the one called Hedari, the other Nametlai; and upon all the Combats of Beasts beforementioned, there are always very considerable Wagers laid between these two Tribes. The King, who is a neuter, gives to the Master of the Beast that gets the upper hand sometimes five, sometimes ten, sometimes twenty Tomans, according to the value of the Wager laid; and he that wins the Wager, presents the Master of the the Beast likewise. They have also a Sport at breaking of Eggs, by knocking the ends one against another, some of which Eggs come to three or four Crowns. The Hens that lay them are bred in a Country which they call Sausevare, about a hundred leagues from Ispahan, toward the Province of Karason; the Cocks of which Country are bigger and stronger than other Cocks, and cost some of them a hundred Crowns. There are a sort of Tumblers also, that after Dinner set up their Stages in the Meydan, and toward the Evening, they that play the Maid-Marians come and encompass a square place with a course piece of Calicut; and then through another very fine Cloth, the Wenches show a thousand tumbling Tricks and antic Postures. When they have done, they come and ask the Spectators for Money, who give them every one what they think fit. Every Friday, which is as it were Market-day, the Country-folks bring to Town what they have made in the Villages, as Doors and Windows fitted to be hung up, Window-frames, Locks, and other things of that nature. Upon that day also they sell Mules, Horses, Camels, and Asses, which brings a great confluence of people from all parts. Upon the West side, where stands the Gate of the Palace, and Ali's Gate, between the Canal and the Porticoes are ranged some seventy Pieces of Cannon upon, their Carriages. These Guns, together with the Sundial, were brought from Ormus by the Great Sha-Abas, of which the English ought to have had their share; for without their assistance he never could have taken the Town. From the corner of that Front, which touches upon the Eastern Front of the Mosque, in the middle, are all Saddler's Shops; and from that Mosque to another corner that touches upon the Western Front, live the Booksellers, Bookbinders, and Trunk-makers. In the middle of the Southern Front stands a Portal, with a Tower upon each side, which leads to a Mosque, the Gate whereof is covered all over with Plates of Silver, and is certainly the neatest Portal and fairest Entrance into any Mosque of Persia. At the other end of the same Front, where it joins to that upon the West, there is a great Portal that leads to a false Gate of the King's Palace; near to which, as soon as you are entered, you meet with the Apartment of the Great Treasurer, who is a white Eunuch, and having the Keys of the Chamber where the Money lies, takes care to pay whatever the King order him. Through that false Gate all the King's Provisions are carried into the Palace. This way also enter they that are entertained for the Manufacture of the King's Tissues, Silks, Satins, Coverlets, and the like. In the same Enclosure also the Franks, who are under the King's Wages, and live at Zulpha, come every day to work; as also all the most particular and eminent Artists that the King hires. The Western Front, which makes one of the two lengths of the Meydan, is thus appointed; from the Southern angle that touches the Trunk-maker's quarter, live all your Pedlars that sell all the small Commodities of Norimberg and Venice. As for the King's Palace, I cannot make any handsome description of it, in regard there is nothing of Beauty either in the Building or in the Gardens. I think I have been as far in the House as a man could go, every time I was sent for by His Majesty; but excepting only four Rooms which they call Divans, I saw nothing but pitiful low Galleries, and so narrow that hardly two men could pass abreast in 'em. In one of those Galleries I had audience of the King, in the Garment of Honour which he had bestowed upon me. But in regard I have spoken of two of them in another place, and that the other two are much alike both Building and Furniture, I shall say no more of them here. From the King's Palace Gate to Haly's Gate live the Goldsmiths, Lapidaries, and Gravers of Stones for Seals: Haly's Gate is a plain Gate, naked of Work; of which I have already spoken. Between Haly's Gate, and the other angle of the same Western Front, stands a great Gate which leads into a Bazar, where all the Armenians that live at Zulfa keep their Shops, and sell all sorts of Cloth that comes out of Europe, and other the choicest Wares of Persia. At the end of that Bazar stands a fair Inn two Stories high, which the Mother of Sha-Abas the second caused to be built. In the middle stands a great Fountain with four great Gates, which lead into four other Inns. Here by the way let me give a Traveller and a Trader in Persia this advice; that if his Goods be not very heavy, he never hire a low Chamber, as being three times dearer than those above: For the Chambers which the Sun lies upon most in the Summer, are the Chambers which cost least. Not but all the Chambers in the Inn are Taxed at the same rate by the King; but the Host for his profit will find some pretence or other to raise his price, pretending those Chambers be hired already which you desire, especially if they be corner Chambers, which are the largest and most commodious. And indeed without this collusion Chambers would be very cheap. The best convenience of those Inns is, that a man is more secure in one of them then in a private House: For there if it happen that a piece of Goods be stolen; or that your Chapman prove insolvent for Goods bought, the Innkeeper is to make all good; being by the Law to receive so many blows a day till he pays the sum demanded. The Merchant also gives two in the hundred for every thing that he sells, and when the Market is done they presently go to the Host, who sets down in his Book the quality of his Goods, and the names both of buyer and seller. If he knows not the buyer, he is bound to go and inquire after him, and if he be not solvent, the Merchant takes his Goods again. Sometimes the Merchant to save the two in the hundred, combines with the Purchaser to carry away some of his Goods without the knowledge of the Host, which is done by greasing his Deputies fist, who will presently shut his Eyes. But then if the Purchaser proves insolvent, the Merchant dares not complain, because his Goods are not Registered in the King's Book, whom he has defrauded of his Custom. No less secure are the Bazars or Market-places, where the Merchants shut up their Shops very slightly, the Bazars being strongly guarded both within and without all night long. As for the petty Stalls in the Meydan, every one puts up his Ware in a Box Padlocked up, and then lay them down at one end of the place one by another. As for the course sort of Ware, as Tents, Cords, Ropes, and such other things they only heap them under a large Coverlet fastened at the four corners by four sticks, for the Meydan also is as strongly guarded as the Bazar. Between Haly's Gate and that which leads to the Bazar where the Armenians keep their Shops, live all those that deal in Russia Leather, making Borachio's to tie under the Horse's Bellies, little Buckets, and Furniture for Horsemen, as also Bowyers, fletcher's, and Furbishers. From the last Gate to the end of the Gallery, live all the Druggist's and Apotheearies. At the Angle upon the two fronts upon the East and North, there is a Gate that leads to the Great Bazar; next to that live only your Sails-men that sell whole Habits for men, as Shirts, Sheets, Hose, and the like. There be also those that sell Leather Shoes for men and women; which Shoes are always worn by persons of quality. Out of this Bazar you go into another full of men that work in Copper, such as make Pots, Plates, and other Utensils for the Kitchin. Here also live those that make Files, and the blades of Sythes. The rest of the Bazar is possessed by Dyers of Calicut; and at the end of the Bazar is a fair Inn, where all the Merchants live that sell Musk, Russia Leather, and Furs. I have in another place observed that the King has a great Revenue out of the Bazars and Inns which he has caused to be built, which is particularly laid out in provision for his Table. For the Law of Mahomet forbidding Princes to impose Taxes or Customs upon the people, they do not believe that the money which arises from thence is fit to be employed or laid out for the necessaries of life, believing that their food so purchased would do them no good. By virtue of this prohibition of Mahomet it is, that the Merchants take all the liberty they can to deceive the King of his Customs, believing that they cannot offend the Prince, while they transgress not the Law. Besides, that if they should pay all the King's Duties, the price of Goods would rise so high, so as to spoil the whole Course of Trade and Commerce. Neither would the Revenue of the Caravansera's, Bazars, and Gardens suffice for the King's Kitchen, were not the several Khans or Governors of Provinces obliged to supply that expense every Week in their turns, whereby those expenses cost the King little or nothing. Upon the North-Front of the Meydan, are made under the Portico's separations for Chambers, that look upon the Piazza, where people go to smoke Tobacco and drink Coffee. The Seats of those Rooms are placed as in so many Amphitheatres, and in the midst of every one stands a large Vessel full of running Water, wherewith their Pipes be cleansed when they are over-fowl. All the Persians that haveany spare time, fail not every day to resort to those places between seven and eight in the Morning, where the Owner of the Room presently brings them every one their Pipe and their Dish of Coffee. But the Great Sha-Abas, who was a man of a great understanding, finding those places were only so many Meeting-houses, where men assembled to talk and prattle of State-affairs, a thing which no way pleased him; to break the neck of those petty Cabals, he ordered that a Moullah should be sure to be betimes at every place before the rest of the people came thither, and that he should entertain those Tobacco-whiffers, and Coffee-quaffers, sometimes with a Point of the Law, sometimes with History, sometimes with Poetry. This custom is still observed: so that after this entertainment has lasted two or three hours, the Moullah rising up, cries to every one in the Coffee-Room, Come my Masters, in good time, let's all now retire every man to his business. Strait every one retires upon the Moullah's words, who is liberally entertained all the while by the Society. In the midst of the North-Front stands a great Portal, with a large Dial over it, which Sha-Abas brought from Ormus when he took it from the Portugals. But the Dial is of no use, nor is ever like to be. Round the Tower of that Portal runs an open Gallery, with a kind of a Ceiling over head supported with Pillars; from whence every Evening about Sunset, and at Midnight, a noise of Drums and Trumpets is to be heard through the whole City. Though the truth is, the Music would never charm a curious Ear. Out of some parts of the Gallery are contrived little Dormitories, where the chiefest of the Court lie. In all the Cities where the Khans reside is the custom of making this rattling noise of Drums and Trumpets observed, and not elsewhere. On each side of the Portal, under the Horologe, are five or six Banks of Jewellers, who there put to sale certain parcels of Pearls, Emeralds, Granats, and Turquoises, which are not of any great value: every parcel being set by itself in a Dish, and the whole Stall covered with a silk Net, to preserve the Stones from being stolen. Just against the same Portal, going toward the South-Front, you meet with two little Goals five or six Foot high, and seven or eight distant one from the other. Here the men play at Pall-mall on horseback, the Horseman being to strike the Ball running at full speed, between the two Goals. Through that Portal you enter into an Enclosure much like the place where the Fair of St. Germane is kept, and there it is that the Merchants of Gold and Silver-Tissues and other rich Stuffs, with all your finest sorts of Calicuts and Linens, keep their Shops. The Court side of the Meydan, which is upon the East, and which answers to the grand Front where the King's House stands, is thus appointed. In the middle stands a Duomo covered with a kind of baked Earth, and as well the Duomo as the Portal, which is very high, are all varnished over. You ascend nine or ten steps, the Port of Haly facing it on the other side of the Piazza. From the end of the Porticoes that touch the North side of the Mosque, live the Shopkeepers that sell sowing-Silk, and small Manufactures of Silk, as Ribbons, Laces, Garters, and other things of the same nature. From the Mosque to the other end, are all Turner's, that make Cradles for Children, and Spinning-Wheels. There are also some Cotton-beaters, that make quilted Coverlets. Without the Porticoes are none but Smiths, that make scythes, Hammers, Pincers, Nails, and such like things; with some few Cutlers. This is all that can be said of Ispahan, and that great Piazza, which some perhaps have set out in better colours. But I have represented all things as they are, as being one that have seen them oftener, and beheld them a longer time than ever any Frank that Travelled into Asia. CHAP. VI Of Zulpha, a little City, separated from Ispahan by the River Senderou. ZUlpha, which others call Julpha and Giolpha, is distant from Ispahan toward the South half an hours walk, the River Scnderou running almost at an equal distance between the two Cities. The way that leads from one City to another is a Walk some fifteen hundred Paces long, and seventy broad, almost equally divided by the River. It gins from a Pavilion or Tabernacle forty Foot square, which joins to the hinder part of the King's House, with a double Story, to which several Windows give light, closed with wooden Lattices very artificially wrought. None but the King and his Household pass that way into the Walk. For they that go from Ispahan to Zulpha, find the way into the Walk through a Gate which is close adjoining to the Tabernacle. This Walk is called the Street of Tcharbag, or the Street of Four Gardens. A Channel runs all along the Walk from the Tabernacle, where a little Rivulet falls into it, and fills it as far as the great Bridge. The two sides of the Channel which are paved with Stone, and are two or three Foot broad, make one way, which Passengers may, and many times do take; for the usual way both for Horse and Foot, lies upon each side of the Walk, behind the Trees, which are planted in a straight line to the very Walls of the King's Gardens, which close the Alley on each side. It is a kind of a Causey of Freestone, somewhat raised, and four or five Foot broad. There is but one row of Trees on each side, strait and high, called Tchinards, with one tuft at the top. The space between the Channel and the Trees is not paved, but lies common, and is sometimes sowed. About two hundred Paces from the Tabernacle or Banqueting-house, the River falls into a great Pool, about thirty or thirtyfive Foot in diameter; and in that place, as also in others somewhat beyond it, where there are also other Pools, the Walk is crossed by a Causey paved and raised, ten or twelve Foot broad, as the rest are. Upon the left hand of the first Pool stands another Tabernacle or Banqueting-house, much alike in structure and bigness to the former; in which place, in a low arched Room with a Fountain of Water in the middle, you may go and drink Coffee. From that House to the Bridge the Walk descends, and the Water makes some falls. All the Gardens on each side of the Walk, both on this side and beyond the Bridge, belong to the King. But you must not imagine that these Gardens, or that of Hezardgerib, which is the fairest of all Persia, are so curiously set out, nor so well kept as ours in Europe. For they have no such lovely Borders, nor such close Walks of Honeysuckles and Jasmin as are to be seen in the Gardens of Europe. They suffer the Grass to grow in many places; contented only with a good many great Fruit-trees, tufted atop, and planted in a line, which is all the grace of the Gardens of Persia. In each side of the Walls between which the Walk runs, at a true distance of space, are gates neatly contrived, and over each a little Room. Almost in the middle of the Walk between the great Banqueting-house and the Bridge, upon the left hand, stands a House of the Dervi's, to whom the King has given one of his Gardens to build upon. There they keep the Relics of Haly, or some other Prophet; for you shall see them standing under a certain Arch, before which the Persians make a most profound Reverence. These Dervi's come every Afternoon about three or four a Clock into the Bazars of Ispahan; every two, an old one and a young one, choosing his quarter. They go from Shop to Shop, instructing the People upon some Point or other of the Law: the young Dervi's answering the old ones at certain times. Their Habit is only two Sheepskins or Goatskins, the one hanging before, the other behind, with a great leathern Girdle, four or five fingers broad, garnished with several great Plates of Latin. They throw another Sheepskin cross their Shoulders, which they tie before, under their Chins. Upon their Heads they only wear a little Lambskin in form of a Bonnet, letting the feet hang down to their Necks, over their Cheeks. They carry a great Club in their hands, as the Painters represent John the Baptist in the Wilderness. Between their girdles and their wastes they stuff a company of pitiful Flowers, or else a sort of Herbs, which after Exhortation, both the young and the old Dervi's bestow upon the Merchants and Tradesmen, from whom at the same time they receive Alms. Toward the Evening they go home again; and I forgot to tell you, that before the door of the House stands always a large Vessel of Water with several little Cups, and Ice in the Summer, where all passengers may drink upon free-cost. The River of Senderou, which as well as the rest of the Rivers of Persia, except the Arras, is not able to carry a Boat, is a very great relief to Ispahan. Behind the Mountains of the South beyond Zulfa is another River, called Abkuren, which about five or six Leagues above Ispahan runs within a League and a half of Senderou. Sha-Abas the first attempted to have joined the two Rivers together, to which purpose he went about to have removed certain Rocks that stood in his way, but not being able to compass his design, his Successors laid aside all the thoughts of attempting any more. Can it have been done, the Champaign of Ispahan would have been one of most fertile and delicious places in the World; whereas now the River is of no use, running through Desert Countries and Plains of Salt. As for the River of Senderou, in Winter it overflows, but in Summer it has very little Water, being oftener forded than crossed over upon Bridges. About four Leagues above Ispahan they are constrained to force it into their Lands to water their Fields and Grounds, which else would produce nothing at all. Wells they have a great many in several places; but besides, that they are not able to furnish that great quantity of Water which is necessary; the River Water is much better to fatten the Land. Now you must observe that their Channels never return to the River, being wasted upon the Ground; so that the River of Ispahan being very much wasted before it comes to the City, by reason that it is still lessened by so many Channels, about ten or twelve Leagues from thence, it ends as it were quite spent in a few Marshes. This scarcity of Water, which is so general over all Persia, is the reason that they are extraordinary Husbands of it, and buy it very dear. Therefore is the superintendent of the Water, which brings the King in a very considerable Revenue, one of the most contended for employments in the whole Court. For every Garden is Taxed more or less according to its bigness, for the Water it requires once a Week; which Water is let go into the quarters which have need of it, every Garden having a particular Channel whence they have their Water by turns. But you must have a care of attempting to bring this Water in before your turn, for should it come to be known, an easy Fine would not excuse the matter. I knew two Franks, who because they presumed to take in Water in the night time before it was their turn, had like to have lost all their Land by Confiscation, had it not been for the particular favour of the King to the Franks; and yet all that favour did not excuse them from being sound amerced. There are four Bridges a quarter of a League's distance one from another that cross the River of Senderou to Ispahan. That which crosses the walk bears the name of Alywerdi-Kan, who caused it to be built, being also called the Bridge of Zulfa. It is built of good Brick joined together with Freestone, and very level, not being higher in the middle than at either end. It is not above three hundred and fifty paces long, and twenty broad, being supported by several small Arches of Stone which are very low. Of each side there is a Gallery eight or nine foot broad which runs from one end to the other, several Arches twenty-five or thirty foot high supporting the Platform, where when the heat is not extreme, they that please may walk for the sake of the fresh Air. But the most usual passage is under the Galleries, where there are several outlets upon the River to let in the fresh Air. For the Galleries are very high from the level of the Bridge, to which you ascend by easy steps, the middle of the Bridge not being above twenty-five foot broad, serving for Wagons and Packhorses. There is also another way all along by the Water side, where there are several Stones laid to step upon, to keep you from being watchet. It crosses through all the Arches of the Bridge, through little doors made in every Arch from one end to the other, descending from the Bridge by a little pair of stairs, taken out of the thickness of the Arches supporters. There is another Staircase to ascend up to the Galleries of about two fathoms broad, with stays or Rails on both sides. This Bridge is truly a very neat piece of Architecture, if I may not say the neatest in all Persia. THE PERSIAN GOLPHE There are also three other Bridges upon the River, one above the Bridge of Zulfa, and two below. The first but meanly built, but very commodious for the Armenians, when they travel Westward, who would else be forced to go a great way about, through the whole City of Ispahan. The first of the other two Bridges below the Bridge of Zulfa, was built by Sha-Abas the second, Father of the present King. It is almost equal to it in Structure; but it has one particular beauty, which is a hexagonal place in the middle of the Bridge, which causes the Water to fall in that part with a pleasing noise. For that being the deepest part of the River, Sha-Abas resolved to build a Bridge there; partly for the Gaurs sake, to the end, they might not come through the walk of Tcharbag, and that going from Ispahan they might have a shorter cut home. The Habitation of the Gaurs is only a large Village, the first Houses whereof are but a little way from the River; though the walk that goes from Ispahan to the King's Bridge is both longer and broader than that of Tcharbag, planted on both sides with a row of Trees, but no Channel in the middle. Before each of the Avenues to the Bridge stands a House that belongs to the King for his divertisement. That upon the left side of the River toward Ispahan, was by the great Sha-Abas given to the Capuchins. For as soon as they came to Ispahan, upon their Examination, the King was extremely taken with their behaviour. He asked them how they lived, and whether they took any money? To which the Capuchins making answer, that they never handled any money but contented themselves with Alms; the King believing his Subjects, would give them very little, bestowed that House and Garden upon them. But they stayed not long there, because it was too big for them to repair, and too far from the City, so that the roman-catholics in the Winter could not get to their Chapel. Now they have built themselves a very handsome House not far from the King's Palace, at the Cost of Father Joseph, one of their own order. There is another old Bridge a quarter of a League below the Gaurs Bridge, which is upon the Road from Ispahan to Schiras. But to return to the long-walk of Tcharbag, which continues above eight hundred paces beyond the Bridge of Zulfa to the Garden of Hezardgerib. The Rivulet that passes that other part of the walk, comes from the same River which they have cut three or four Leagues above Ispahan. When you have walked about four hundred paces, you meet with a fall of Waters that tumbles into a Pool, from whence there are twelve steps to ascend to the end of the Alley. The walk is fronted by the great House which stands before the Garden of Hezardgerib, or the thousand Acres. The House consists but only of one great Hall over the Gate, and four small Chambers at the four corners of it. Hezardgerib is the fairest Garden in Asia, though it would be accounted nothing in Europe. However as it lies upon the descent of a Hill, it consists of sixteen Terasses, sustained by a Wall sixteen or seventeen foot high. There is but little Water in any of the Wells; but that which has most is in the fourth Terrace. That is a great Octagonal Pool about a hundred and twenty foot in Diameter, round about which are several Pipes that throw up the Water about three foot high, and there are three steps down to the Water. A Channel paved with Stone runs through the principal Alley, which goes no farther than the building. This Channel is as wide as that of the Channel of Tcharbag, whence it is supplied as being right opposite to it. In the tenth Terrace you meet with another Fountain of the same bigness and form with that in the fourth; and in the last which terminates the Grand Alley and the length of the Garden, there is another Channel which crosses all the Alleys, which, like the great one compose the length of the Alley. Besides this, there are open Rooms to take the fresh Air, some falls and murmurs of Water, but for borders and close Alleys, and Arbours, you must expect no such thing, either in Hezardgerib, nor in any other part of Persia. Having walked in the great walk of Tcharbag, you meet upon the right hand with a Street between two Walls of the Gardens that belong to the King, which Street leads you to Zulfa, not above two or three Musket Shots distance off. Zulfa a Colony of Armenians which Sha-Abas brought from Zulfa a City of Armenia, is so much increased for some years since, that it may now pass for a large City, being almost a League and a half long, and near upon half as much broad. There are two principal Streets which contain near upon the whole length, one whereof has on each side a row of Tchinars, the roots whereof are refreshed by a small Channel of Water, which by a particular order the Armenians bring to the City, to water their Gardens. The most part of the other Streets have also a row of Trees, and a Channel. And for their Houses, they are generally better built, and more cheerful than those of Ispahan. How they came to be fettled here, I have already described: And now the number See the Description of Zulpha. of Inhabitants is strangely increased by the accession of several other Christians of divers Sects, as Jacobites, Cophtes, and Nestorians, who formerly lived in the Suburbs of Ispahan. Neither was Sha-Abas so cruel in transplanting the Armenians away out of their own Country; for they were all at that season poor labouring men, who knew not at all what belonged to Trade. Since that time they are grown very rich: so that the Armenians have no cause to be covetous of the Habitations of their Ancestors. And now I will tell you how they came to be such great Proficients in Trade. Sha-Abas, who was a man of a great Genius, and a person of great undertaking, considering that Persia was a barren Country, where there was little Trade, and by consequence little Money, resolved to send his Subjects into Europe with raw Silks, so to understand whence the best profit would arise, to bring Money into his Country. To which purpose, he resolved to make himself Master of all the Silk in his own Country, by purchasing it himself at a reasonable rate, taxed by himself, and to reap the gains by his Factors: and withal, thought it necessary to seek an Alliance with the great Kings of Europe, to engage them on his side against the Turk. He first sent to the King of France, Henry the Fourth. But he dying before the Ambassador arrived, answer was made the Ambassador, That if the King of Persia had any thing to say to the King of France, Lewis the Thirteenth, he must send a new Ambassador, which was never done. Three or four years after he sent an Ambassador to the King of Spain, accompanied with a Persian Merchant of Ispahan, putting into their hands a considerable quantity of Bales of Silk. He also sent along with them a Portuguez Austin-Friar, to be their Guide and Interpreter. The Persian Merchant would have sold the Silks, as was the King's order, and have bought a Present more becoming. But the Ambassador overruled by the Friar, resolved to present the King of Spain with the Bales of Silk. The Merchant not able to oppose the Ambassador, returns home forthwith to give an account to the King, who approved his management. The Ambassador proceeds, and coming to the Spanish Court, presents his Bales of Silk to the King, who asked the Ambassador whether his Master took him for a Woman, that he had sent him so many Bales of Silk to spin; and immediately sent away the Present to his Queen, presenting the Ambassador but very meanly: who thereupon seeing the Error he had committed, made haste home; but upon his return, the Persian King having notice of the ill success of his Negotiation, caused his Belly to be ripped open in the public Marketplace. About fifteen years after, he trusted a considerable quantity of Silk with a Merchant's Son of Ispahan, and sent him to Venice: who when he came there, took a stately Lodging, and spent his Money at a strange rate, especially among the Courtesans; to maintain which expense, he continually sold great quantities of Silk. The Venetians seeing a private man live so splendidly among them, and not believing so great a quantity of Goods could belong to one single Merchant, but rather imagining him to be a Factor for some Company who suffered for his folly, wrote to all the Ports of the Levant, and having intelligence who he was, the Senate thought fit to seize his Person and his Goods, before he had consumed all; at the same time giving a civil account to the King of Persia, what they had done. To which the Persian King returned a most obliging Answer of Thanks, sending withal an intelligent Persian Merchant to take an account of what was left, to whom the Venetians were very punctual. As for the Prodigal Persian, who thought it not his wisest way to return into Persia, what became of him is not material to this Story. The Platform of the famous Fortress of Candahar which is the Best Place in all Asia And indeed the Armenians are so much the more fit for Trading, because they are a people very sparing, and very sober; though whether it be their virtue of their avarice, I know not. For when they are going a long Journey, they only make provision of Biscuit, smoked Bufalo's flesh, Onions, baked Butter, Flowr, Wine, and dried Fruits. They never buy fresh Victuals, but when they meet with Lambs or Kids very cheap in the Mountainous Countries; nor is there one of them that does not carry his Angle to fish withal, when they come to any Ponds or Rivers. All these Provisions cost them little the Carriage. And when they come to any Town where they are to stay, they club five or six together, and lie in an empty Chamber which they furnish themselves; every one carrying his Mattress, his Coverlet, and his Kitchen-instruments, which is a great piece of Thrift. When they travel into Christendom, they carry along with them Saffron, Pepper, Nutmegs, and other Spices; which they exchange in the Country-Towns for Bread, Wine, Butter, Cheese, Milk-Meats, and other Provisions which they buy of the poor Women. When they return out of Christendom, they bring along with them all sorts of Mercery-ware, and Pedlery-ware of Noremberg and Venice; as little Looking-glasses, trifles of Tin enamelled, false Pearls, and other things of that nature; which pays for the Victuals they call for among the Countrypeople. In the beginning of their Trade, there returned very few Caravans into Persia without two hundred thousand Crowns in Silver, beside English and Dutch Clothes, fine Tissues, Looking-glasses, Venice-Pearls, Cochenel, and Watches; which they thought most proper for the Sale of Persia and India. At length those Armenians became so exquisite in Trade, that several of them have left Estates of two, some twenty thousand Tomans. But the richest among them was Cotgia, or Monsieur Petrus, who left forty thousand Tomans in coined Money, besides his Horses, Furniture, and Lands in the Country, his Jewels and Plate; all which are never reckoned a Merchant's Estate, but only the ready Cash with which he trade's. Cotgia Petrus was very much esteemed for his Charity, and the great Church which he built, which is a kind of Covent, with a Bishop and Monks. Nor is the fair Marketplace, all environed with Shops, a little beholding to his Generosity. The Armenians of Zulpha have this advantage over all the Christians of the East, that they enjoy Lands and Privileges, the King not permitting the least injustice to be done them, nor that any Mahometan should live at Zulpha. They have also the privilege to be as well clad as the Persians, and to make use as they do of Bridles of Gold and Silver. Their Wives also are very richly habited, in stripped Satins purfled with Gold, and other rich European Silks. The King names whom he pleases among the Armenians to be their Chief; whom they call Kelonter, who judges all their differences, and taxes them to make up the Sum which they are to pay to the King every year. The Language of the Armenians is either vulgar or learned: the learned is only used by the ecclesiastics, in reference to their Religion. They writ like us, from the left to the right, having found out peculiar Characters about four years since. They have three Languages very natural to them, which however are very different the Armenian, which is their ancient Country-speech, which they have preserved from Father to Son; the Persian, which is the Language of the Country where they live; and the Turkish, of which they make very much use in course of Trade. As for their Women, they speak nothing but the Armenian, as having no converse with strangers, and never stirring out of their houses. There are some Armenians speak Italian and French, as having learned it in Europe. There are in Zulpha fifteen or sixteen Churches and Chapels of the Armenians, among which you are to count two Nunneries for Women. There are in Ispahan Austin-Friars, Carmelites, and Capuchins, and in Zulpha Jesuits. The Jesuits that came last have but a little House, but to make them amends they have a large Garden. Though the number of the Religious Teachers is far greater than the number of Hearers: for in all Ispahan and Zulpha, take the Franks that come out of Europe, or born in Persia, as well Men as Women, there are not six hundred persons that profess the Catholic Religion. As for the Armenians, they are so obstinately fixed to their own Religion, that they will hear of no other; and nothing but Money has sometimes caused them to seign the embracing of another. Friar Ambrose a Capuchin stayed a while at Zulpha, to whom several of the principal Armenians came to School to learn French, in hopes of establishing a Trade with France. But the Armenian Archbishop and Bishops fearing lest the Children should be infected with some other Religion, excommunicated all Fathers that sent their Children to School. And finding that they little regarded the Excommunication, they shut up the Church doors, and stirred up the People against the Religious Franks; so that Father Ambrose was forced to leave Persia, and retire to Surat. Moreover there are in Ispahan both Jews and Indian Idolaters. Nor are the Jews so miserable and beggarly, as they seem to be: they intrude, according to custom, into all Business; so that if any has a mind to buy or sell any rich Jewel, he need do no more but speak to them. In the Reign of Sha-Abas, the Athemadoulet persecuted them so grievously, that either by force or by cunning he caused them to turn Mahometans; but the King understanding that only power and fear had constrained them to turn, suffered them to resume their own Religion, and to live in quiet. There are about ten or twelve thousand Banians in Ispahan, who are known by their yellow Complexions, or rather by a yellow Mark made with Saffron upon the top of their Foreheads. Their Turbans are less than usual, and their Shoes are almost like ours, embroidered with Flowers atop. They are all Bankers, and very knowing in Money. The greatest part of the Money of the principal Moneyed men of Ispahan is in their hands for improvement sake. So that if you want a considerable Sum, you may have it the next day upon good Security, and paying severe a Interest, which those Banians will squeeze up sometimes to 18 per Cent. But if it be not very privately exacted and paid, the Law of Mahomet, which forbids the taking of Interest, lays hold upon the whole Sum, and confiscates it every Penny. CHAP. VII. Of the Religion of the Persians; of the great Feast of Hocen and Hussein, and the Camel-Feast. THE difference among the Mahometans, doth not consist in the different Explanations which they put upon the Alcoran; but in the several Opinions which they hold concerning the first Successors of Mahomet, from which have arisen two particular Sects entirely opposite; the Sect of the Sunnis, and the Sect of the Schiais. The first, who are of the Turkish belief, maintain that Abou-baker succeeded immediately to Mahomet, as his Vicar or Vicegerent; to him Omar; to Omar Osman; to Osman Mortuz-Ali, Nephew and Son-in-law to Mahomet by Marriage of his Daughter. That Osman was Secretary to Mahomet, a person of Courage, as well as the other three: and that they were all valiant Soldiers, and great Captains, who extended their Conquests more by force of Arms than by Reason. And thence it comes that the Sunnis will not allow of Disputes, but propagate and maintain their Religion altogether by force. The Schiais, who are of the Persian belief, detest Abou-baker, Omar, and Osman, as Usurpers to the Succession of Mahomet, which only belonged to Haly, his Nephew and Son in Law. They hold that this succession consists in eleven High Priests descendants from Haly, who makes the twelfth in this order. 1. Haly, Son of Aboutaleb. 2. Hocen, eldest Son of Hali. 3. Hussein, his second Son, who suffered death in defence of his Father's Succession. The place where the Sunnis gave him battle and slew him, is called Kerbela near to Babylon, and is a holy place in high veneration among the Persians. 4. Iman-zin-el-Abedin. 5. Mahomet-el-Baker. 6. jafer-el-scadek, who introduced the Law into Persia, that if any Christian, Jew, or Idolater turned Mahometan, he should be declared general Heir to his Family to the exclusion of Brothers and Sisters, and that he might allow what he pleased to his Father and Mother. Whence arose two mischiefs, that some Armenians, Christians, and Jews turned Mahumetans, to get the Estate of the Family, and others turned Mahumetans to keep their possessions. 7. Moussa-Katzem. 8. Hali-el-Rezza, whose Tomb at Meshed is as highly venerated among the Persians, as Mahomet's among the Turks. 9 Mahammet-el-Ioüad. 10. Hali-el-Hadi. 11. Hocen-el-Askeri. 12. Mouhemmet-el-Mouhadi Shaheb-zaman. The Persians hold the same belief as to the last Iman, as we do of Enoch and Elias; which is the reason that several people leave them in their Wills Houses ready furnished, Stables full of stately Horses, and other necessaries for them to make use of when they return to Earth again. They attribute to this Iman the Surname of Zaheb-zaman, or Lord of Time. These two Sects of Sunnis and Schias overrun the three principal Kingdoms of India, viz. the Great Moguls, the King of Golconda's, and the King of Visapours. The first and last being Sunnis, that is to say, both the Kings and Lords of the Court; for their Subjects are most of them Idolaters. Some Schiais there are in the Courts of both Kings, in regard the Officers of the Army are for the most part Persians, though in outward show they may follow the Religion of the Prince. But the King of Golconda Koutoub-Sha is a zealous Schiais. I come now to the Grand Festival of the Persians, which is the famous Feast of Hocen and Hussein. Eight days before the Festival gins, some of the more zealous sort black all their Bodies and their Faces, and go naked in the Streets with only a covering about their secret parts. They carry two Flints, one in each hand, which they knock one against another, writhing their Bodies, and making a thousand antic Faces; and all the while crying out, Hussein, Hocen; Hocen, Hussein; which they act and speak with so much Labour, till they foam again at the mouth. In the Evening, the devout people admit them into their Houses, and feed them very well. During those days, as soon as the Sun is set, you shall see at the corners where several Streets meet, Pulpits set up for certain Preachers, who prepare the people that flock to hear them to the devotion of the Feast. Now in regard all Ages and Sexes go, there is no time in all the year so favourable for the Women to meet their Gallants. In the year 1667. the third of July, I saw the Festival by the favour of the Nagar, who appointed me a place just against the Déla where the King sat. This Déla is a Room built with a jetting upon that side of the Meidan next the Palace Gate, one story high. Several Pillars sustain the flat bottom or floor of the Déla, enriched with a Grotesco work of Gold and Azure, in the midst whereof there was a Fountain that was filled with Water by the contrivance of a Pipe. The Stage or Déla was open upon three sides, the longest side jetting out upon the Piazza. Upon the Wall of the opposite side, which was close, were to be seen several English and Hollanders, both men and women pictured with Bottles and Glasses in their hands, as if they were drinking to one another. Sha-Abas the second caused this Painting to be drawn by a Hollander. About seven a Clock in the Morning Sha-Sephi the second, who since has changed his name to Sha-Soliman the second, came and seated himself upon his Throne set up in the midst of the Déla, all his Nobility standing about him. So soon as he was sat down, the Great Provost appeared at the end of the Piazza mounted upon a fair Horse, attended by certain young Lords, who caused the people, consisting of the Companies of the two quarters of the City, which are twelve in all, to advance to the places which were designed them. For formerly the Companies would strive for the way; and therefore the King to prevent disorder, ordered there should be a Provost, or Master of the Ceremonies to place them without disturbance. As he was about his duty, a Horseman entered the Piazza, armed with a Bow, a Quiver, and a Scimitar, followed by seven Men that carried every one a Pike upright in their hands, with every one a Man's Head at the top. Those were the Heads of certain Usbeck-Tartars, the neighbouring and mortal Enemies of the Persians, which those men had cut off from the shoulders of their conquered Foes. The King caused five Tomans a piece to be given to them that carried the Heads, and ten Tomans to their Leader. After them entered three hundred Turks, which were fled from the Borders of Turkey, from whence the Countrypeople were taken by force, and sent to the Wars of Candy. They complained, that whereas they were wont to be sent to their Winter-Quarters about the middle of October, the Turk kept them to the same hard service in Winter as in Summer. All these were ordered to advance into the middle of the Piazza, where they made their obeisance to him three times, and then humbly besought him that they might dwell in his Kingdom, with their Wives, their Children, and their cattle. The King ordered Money to be distributed among them, and that they should have Lands assigned them to manure. Then the Provost caused the Companies to advance, every Company having the Thill of a Wagon carried before him; upon every of which Thills was a Bier three or four Foot high, the Wood of the Thill being painted with a Grotesco of Gold and Silver, and the Bier covered with Satin. When the first Company had order to march, three Horses were led before, richly harnessed; when they were come about a hundred Paces forward into the Piazza, in view of the King, they that led the Horses caused them to gallop, and then all the Company fell a running and dancing about with the Bier. Besides that, every one fling up his short Cassock, his Girdle, and Bonnet, put their fingers in their mouths, to whistle as loud as they could. While the naked people, with their Flint-stones in their hands, ran knocking their Stones together, crying out, Hussein Hocen, Hocen Hussein, till they foam at the mouth again; not omitting to wryth their Bodies, and to make all the scurvy Faces as before described. The three Companies succeeding one another in the same Formalities, by and by came two Companies more with a little Bier upon their Thills, and in each Bier a little Child that lay as if dead. They that accompanied these two Buyers wept and sighed most sadly. These two Infants represented the Children of Hussein, who when the Prophet was slain, were taken by Yerid, Caliph of Bagdat, and put to death. Upon this occasion you shall see a great number of Courtesans that come to the Ceremony fall a weeping, who thereby believe their Sins are forgiven When all the people were come into the Piazza, notwithstanding all the care and good order that was taken, there were several that went to Sharps, accounting it a great honour to fight smartly in the King's presence; and farther believing, that if any one be killed upon that occasion, he shall be Sainted; as indeed every one gives something toward his Interment. The Grand Provost seeing the Quarrel grow hot, and fearing more mischief, sent for five Elephants, which ceased the Combat, by drawing the Eyes of the Spectators upon them. The Elephants marched one before another, according to their Pay that was allowed them, and their skill in War. Not that the King of Persia makes any use of them in the Field, but only for State, keeps such as the Indian Princes present him withal. Those five Elephants were covered with Houses of Cloth of Gold, with a Fringe of the same round about. And upon the first, which was the highest and the biggest, sat two Men, the one upon the neck, who guides the Elephant; the other upon the crupper, carrying the King's Arm's in a Standard fixed to a Half-Pike. Upon the other four sat only one Man apiece, who were the Governors. When they came before the place where the King sat, they were all ranked five abreast, at what time the biggest, which was in the middle, stretched out his two forelegs forward, and his two hinder-legs backward, till his belly almost touched the ground; after which manner the Elephant makes his obeisance. The other four did the same. Then laying their Trunks upon the ground, and raising them again over their heads three times more, they were made to stand with their heads where their tails stood; and their Houses were turned up; to the end the King might see in what condition they were, and whether well looked after or no: which being done, they were led away again. Upon one side of the Room where the King stood, a little Scaffold was set up, covered with Tapestry, some five Foot lower than the Kings. In the middle of the Scaffold stood a great Elbow-Chair covered with black Velvet, where sat a Moullah with six other Moullahs round about him. The Moullah made a Discourse upon the Death of Hussein and Hocen of about half an hour long, which being ended, the King caused a Calaat or Habit of Honour to be given him, as also to the others, though not so rich. When they had all put on the Habit, the same Moullah returned to his Chair, and made a Prayer for the health of the King, and the prosperity of his Kingdom. All these Ceremonies lasted from seven in the Morning till Noon, at what time the King retired into his Haram. As for the People, they carry their Buyers up and down the City, and wherever two Companies meet, whether it be for the upper hand, or to get foremost, they presently fall together by the Ears, and knock one another down: for they are not permitted to carry any other Arms than good big Clubs, almost as big as Levers. Some time after the Feast of Hussein and Hocen, the Persians celebrate another Festival, which they call the Feast of the Camel, in remembrance of Abraham's Sacrifice. They have a great reverence for this Festival, saying that it was a Camel and not a Ram which God sent to reprieve Ishmael (affirming that Ishmael was to have been sacrificed, and not Isaac.) They choose out for this Ceremony one of the fairest Camels they can meet withal, and adorn and dress him up with several Plates of counterfeit Gold and Silver, and then leäd him without the City to a place which is before a Mosque on the other side of the River of Ispahan, upon Zulpha side; the Deroga or Provost accompanying the people. The King was formerly wont to be at this Feast, accompanied with his Nobility, and I have seen him there; but of late years he never goes, the Deroga supplying his place. When the King went thither, several Mullahs prayed for half an hour, after which the King took a kind of a Javelin and darted it against the Camel: but now in the absence of the King, the Deroga gives the first stroke. At the same time they fling the Camel to the ground, with Ropes tied to his legs, and cutting off his head and neck together, they divide the rest of the Body into eleven parts more, to the end all the twelve Companies may have every one their share. Every Company carries their share to the Master of the Companies House, who is generally the ancientest among them. Which part is kept and salted up till the next Feast, and the piece the year before, so till then preserved, is then boiled with Rice, and is the foundation of the Feast for the chief of the Company, who take it for an honour to eat of it: For the rest, they boil Rice with Mutton and Hens, and besides that, distribute large Alms to the Poor. CHAP. VIII. Of the Religion of the Gaurs, the Relics of the ancient Persians, adorers of Fire. THere are no men in the world so scrupulous of discovering the Mysteries of their Religion, as the Gaurs; so that I was forced to frequent their company very much in most of my Travels, to pick out what I have here to deliver. Of the present Condition of the Gaurs. AFter the Persians began to persecute the Gaurs, great numbers of them retired to Surat, and others into the Province of Guzerat. Now the King of Persia lets them live in quiet; and there are now above 10000 in Kerman, where I stayed three Months in the year 1654. All that live in India are Tradesmen, and for the most part Turner's in Ivory; those in Kerman deal in Wool. Four days journey from whence stands their principal Temple, where their Chief Priest resides; whither they are once in their lives obliged to go in Pilgrimage. There are some of these Gaurs live near Ispahan. Of their Original, and their Prophets. THey say that the Father of their Prophet was a Frank by Nation, whose Name was Azer, and a Carver by Trade. That he left his own Country to live in theirs, which at that time was the City of Babylon; where he took a Wife who called herself Doghdon. That one night his Wife dreamt that God had sent an Angel from Paradise to visit her, who brought her very rich clothes, which she put on. That a Celestial Light presently overspread her Face, and rendered her as beautiful as the Sun; and that when she waked she found herself with Child, which Child proved to be the Prophet Ebrahim-zer-Ateucht. That the Astrologers of that time, by their skill in the Stars knew of the Birth of that Infant sent by God, who was to govern Men, and reign in their Hearts. That those Astrologers went and declared the same thing to the King, telling him that there was a Child suddenly to be born, that would one day deprive him of his Crown. Whereupon the said King, called Neubrout, and a great Tyrant, caused all the Women with Child to be put to death, through the whole extent of his Dominions. But by a Miracle the big Belly of the Mother of their Prophet not appearing, she remained undiscovered, and brought forth a Son. Her Husband, who knew nothing of this Mystery, fearing he should lose his head if he did not discover the business to the King, before he found it out another way, went and confessed that he had a Child born, but that he knew nothing of her being with Child. Now you must know, that contrary to the custom of other Children, that cry so soon as they come out of the Mother's womb, this Child laughed so soon as he was born. For being to triumph over the Hearts of the people, he was to show signs of joy; so that the people began already to rejoice in their future felicities. This being signified to the King, he called his Astrologers together, to tell him the meaning of so extraordinary a thing, and what would become of the Infant. But the Astrologers not being able to satisfy him, he sent for the Infant, and would have slain him with a Sword with his own hand; but God dried up his Arm immediately, so that he could not. However, not terrified with so great a punishment, transported with Choler, he caused a great Fire to be kindled, and commanded the Infant to be thrown into it. But by the power of God, the Fire which he had prepared to consume the Infant turned into a Bed of Roses, where the Child most sweetly reposed. They who from that hour began to honour the little Prophet, took away some of that Fire, which has been preserved to this time. They keep it, say they, in honour of so great a Miracle; and they have it in great veneration, because it discovered the merit of their Prophet. Nevertheless the King stopped not there, but still obstinate in his impiety, notwithstanding all these Miracles, he prepared new torments for the little Infant; but God chastised his incredulity and that of his people very severely, by sending such an infinite number of Flies, and that of such a pestiferous nature, that whoever were stung with them died without remedy, unless they immediately came and worshipped the Prophet, and kissed his Feet, in testimony of their repentance. As for the King, who still continued in his impenitency, an exemplary fate befell him. For one of those Flies stinging him in one of his Ears, he died a most tormenting death. His Successor was Sha-Glochtes. He also at the beginning of his Reign began to persecute the little Infant, who now began to increase in years and virtue. The King imprisoned him: but he was astonished when he heard that one of his Horses, which he always confided in when he went to Battle, as being assured of Victory when he road him, had lost his four legs. Thereupon, wiser than his Predecessor, and acknowledging from whence so dire a Correction proceeded, he sent for the Prophet out of Prison, asked pardon for his incredulity, and prayed him by his intercession to restore his Horse his legs again. The Prophet willing to do him that favour, prayed to God four times, and every time he prayed one leg returned to the Horse again. The King beholding such a Miracle, was half converted; but being desirous to be farther convinced, he desired the Prophet to throw himself into a Bath of melted Silver, which he would provide for him; promising, if he came out safe, that he and all his People would receive him as one sent from God, and be obedient to his Precepts in all things. The Prophet resolutely undertook his offer, and the Bath being ready, cast himself fearlessly into it; and as he went in, so he came out without the least harm. Then the King and all the people that were present adored him for a real Prophet, and gave him the name of Zer-Ateucht, or Washed in Silver. The Prophet perceiving that all the people had him in so much veneration, withdrew himself, and would not be seen any more. Nor do they justly know what-became of him; which makes the greatest part of the Gaurs believe, that he was taken up into Paradise both Soul and Body together. Others say, that having found an Iron Coffin upon the Road near Bagdat, he put himself into it, and was carried into Heaven by the Angels. They allow their Prophet three Children, who are not yet come into the world, though their names be already given them. They say that this Prophet Ebrahim walking one time upon the River without a Boat, three drops of his nature fell from him upon the water, which are still preserved there. That their God will send a Virgin, very much beloved by him, upon the same River, who by the reception of the first drop shall become big of the first Child, whom they call beforehand Ouchider. He shall come into the world with authority, and shall cause his Father's Law to be received, and confirm it, not only by his eloquent Preaching, but by many miracles. The second, whose name is Ouchiderma, shall be conceived after the same fashion; he shall assist his Brother, and by causing the Sun to stand still ten years, shall convince all the world of the Truth of his Doctrine. The third shall be conceived by the same Mother, and shall be called Senoïet-hotius: He shall come with more authority than his two Brothers, and shall perfectly reduce all people to the Religion of their Prophet. After which shall be the universal Resurrection, at what time all the Souls, either in Paradise or Hell, shall return to take possession of their Bodies. Then say they, shall all the Mountains, and all the Minerals in the world be melted, and shall fill up the great Chaos of Hell, whereby the Mansion of the Devils shall be utterly destroyed? After this the world shall be levelled, and be made fit to inhabit, and men shall have every one their apartment answerable to the degree and quantity of the good which they did in their life time: but that their chief delight shall be to behold and praise God and Ebrahim their Prophet. They add that before the Resurrection, those that are in Paradise do not behold the face of God, no not the Angels themselves, except only one, who is always attendant on him to receive and execute his commands. They also say that God will have pity upon the Damned, and that they shall go into Paradise, as having suffered enough already for their sins. By which it appears, that the Paradise of the Gaurs is less remote from sense than that of Mahomet's invention; and that they have a confused knowledge of the mysteries of Christian Religion. Of the Books of the Gaurs. EBrahim-zer-Ateucht being taken up into Paradise, they received by his means seven Books of Laws, which God of his goodness sent them to instruct them in the way of their Salvation. They also received seven others, containing an interpretation of all the Dreams that could be Dreamed. Lastly seven others, wherein were written all the secrets of Physic, and all the possible means for the long preservation of health. They say that fourteen of these Books, which contained the explication of Dreams and secrets of Physic are lost; for that Allexander the Great carried them away, as esteeming them a vast treasure; and for the Books of their Religion, because they were written in a language that none but the Angels understood, Alexander for madness caused them to be burnt: for which rashness of his, God punished him, and afflicted him with that terrible sickness whereof he Died. Some Doctors and Priests that had did themselves in the Mountains to save their lives from his Butchery, after Alexander was Dead, met again together, and composed one Book by the strength of their memories. I saw that Book which is a good large one, and written in a different Character, either from the Arabian, Persian, or Indian. Their Priests themselves that read in that Book hardly understand what they read, but they have other Books that explain what is contained therein. When they read in that Book, as also when they pray, they tie a Handkerchief about their mouths, as if they were afraid their words should mix with the Air and receive any impurity. Of the manner of their Baptism. THe Gaurs never use Circumcision; but at the Birth of their Children practise something like our Baptism. For some days after the Child is born, they wash it with Water wherein certain Flowers are first boiled; and during that dipping, the Priest, who is present, makes certain Prayers. If the Child die without that Washing, they do not believe but that it goes to Paradise; but they hold that the Parents shall give an account for their neglect of the Infant, because that Washing increases his favour and his merit in the sight of God. Of their Marriages. THe Religion of the Gaurs permits them to have five Wives, if they can maintain them; nor is it laudable to repudiate any one but in case of an evident Adultery, or that she turn Mahometan; besides, it behoves her Husband to stay a whole year, to see whether she will repent or no. If she come and acknowledge her fault to the Priest, he enjoins her Penance for three years; after which he remarries them, and they become man and wife again. As to the Ceremony of Marriage, the Priest, when the Couple come to him, asks the Man and the Woman in the presence of Witnesses whether they both consent; then taking a little Water he says a few Prayers over it, and then washing both their Foreheads he pronounces certain words, and there's all. But they are not to marry within the third degree; nor do they know what it means to desire a Dispensation. But you must observe by the way, that though they are allowed five Wives, there is but one which can be truly said to be married, with whom they are obliged to lie at least two nights in a week, Friday and Saturday, and she always goes before the rest. But if she have no Children in seven years, the man is allowed to marry another, but not to repudiate the other, whom he is bound still to maintain according to his quality. So soon as Women or Maids perceive the custom of Nature upon them, they presently leave their Houses, and stay alone in the Fields in little Huts made of Hurdles or Watlings, with a Cloth at the entering in, which serves for a Door. While they are in that condition, they have Meat and Drink brought them every day; and when they are free, they send according to their quality, a Rid, or a Hen, or a Pigeon for an Offering; after which they go to the Bath, and then invite some few of their Kindred to some small Collation. Of their Fasts, Feasts, and principal Ceremonies. THe Gaurs drink Wine both men and women, and eat Swines-flesh, provided it be of their own breeding and feeding. They are very careful lest their Hogs eat any ordure; for should they perceive that they had devoured any thing of nastiness, they are strictly forbidden to eat them. They never pair their Nails; so that if by way of disgrace, or by any misfortune they are constrained to cut their Nails or their Hair, they carry that which they cut off to some place appointed without the City for that purpose. Five days in a year they abstain from Meat, Fish, Butter, and Eggs; and three other days they fast altogether till Evening. They have also thirty holidays in honour of thirty of their Saints, which they keep very strictly, no man daring to work. But the day of the Birth of their Prophet is celebrated with an extraordinary Pomp; besides, that then they bestow large Alms. There is one day in the year when all the Women of every City and Village meet together to kill all the Frogs they can find in the fields; and this is done by the Command of their Prophet, who was one day very much annoyed by them. Their Priests have several Books full of small Pictures in Water-Colours, ill done, representing how the several Sins of Men shall be punished in Hell, especially Sodomy, which they abominate. Of their Funerals. WHen the Gaurs are sick they send for their Priests, to whom they make a kind of Confession; whereupon the Priests enjoin them to give Alms, and other good Works, to gain pardon of their Sins. They neither burn nor bury their dead, but carry the Corpse without the City, into a walled place, where are abundance of Stakes seven or eight Foot high, fixed in the ground, and tie the dead Corpse to one of the Stakes, with his Face toward the East. They that accompany the Corpse fall to their Prayers at a distance, till the Crows come; for those Cemeteries draw the Crows to them. If the Crow chances to fasten upon the right Eye of the deceased, than they believe the person to be happy, and for joy they give large Alms, and make a Feast in the field. But if the Crow fixes upon the left Eye, than they take it for an ill Omen, return home sad, without speaking to one another; give no Alms, nor eat nor drink. Of their Adoration of Fire. THe Gaurs would not be thought to give Honour to Fire under the title of Adoration. For they do not account themselves Idolaters, saying that they acknowledge but only one God, Creator of Heaven and Earth, whom they only adore. As for the Fire, they preserve it and reverence it, in remembrance of the great Miracle, by which their Prophet was delivered from the Flames. One day being at Kerman, I desired to see that Fire, but they answered me, they could not permit me. For say they, one day the Can of Kerman being desirous to see the Fire, not daring to do otherwise, they showed it him. He it seems expected to see some extraordinary Brightness; but when he saw no more than what he might have seen in a Kitchen or a Chamber-fire, fell a swearing and spitting upon't as if he had been mad. Whereupon the Sacred Fire being thus profaned, flew away in the form of a white Pigeon. The Priests considering then their misfortune, which had happened through their own indiscretion, fell to their Prayers with the People, and gave Alms; upon which, at the same time, and in the same form the Sacred Fire returned to its place: which makes them so shy to show it again. When they put any persons to their Oaths, they Swear them before this Fire; for they think no person so impious, as to swear false before that Sacred Fire, which they take for the Witness of their Oath. Their Priests put them in dread of very great punishments, and threaten them that the heavenly Fire will forsake them, if they prove so wicked as to swear falsely before it. Of their Manners and Customs. THe Language of the Gaurs is different from the Persians, as is their Character and manner of Writing. They love to feast, and to eat and drink well, being very profuse of their Wine and Strong-water. They never eat Hares, because they have their monthly Purgations, like Women: for the same reason they never eat Mulberries, believing that they partake of the nature of Women and Hares. If, when they comb their Hair or their Beards, any one hair happens to fall upon their clothes, those clothes must be washed in the stolen of a Cow or an Ox to purify them again. If by chance they happen to touch any ordure or nastiness, when they come home they must wash themselves in the same Urin. If one of their Priests meet a dead Corpse in the Highway, and chances to see it, he is obliged to wash himself in Cows-Piss, which they hold to be a good Purification: an Opinion held in some parts of India also. I asked one of their Priests how they came to understand the virtue of this Urinal; who answered me, that a certain person who was contemporary with the first Man, having his Arm bruised and very black, by reason of some accident that befell him through the malice of the Devil, fell asleep in the fields, and as he lay, an Ox stalling, a drop of the Urinal flew upon his Arm, and presently healed that part which it wet, and restored it to its former whiteness: which the man perceiving when he waked, presently followed the Ox, and stayed by him till he staled again, and then receiving the Piss upon the whole wound, was perfectly cured. They also preserve it, and compound it with a Water, which they cause them to drink who have committed any Sin, after they have been at Confession for it. They call that Water the Cazi's Water; which Urinal ought to be preserved forty days, with an infusion of Willow-Bark, and certain Herbs. When any person is confessed of his Sin, if it be a crying Sin, the party is bound to stay ten days in the Cazi's House, and not to eat or drink but what the Priest gives them. And in order to Absolution, the Priest strips him naked, and ties a little Dog to his right great Toe, which he leads with him about the Cazi's House wherever he goes, sometimes a whole day, sometimes longer, according to the heinousness of the crime. In that posture he desires the Cazi to purify him, telling him that for his part he believes himself to be purified. The Priest makes answer that it is the Dog that must purify him, and not he. After that he powers the compounded water seven times upon his head, then gives him a draught to drink, and so he is absolved. This penitence costs the criminal Sauce, who is afterwards bound to feast all his friends at the Cazi's House. Being surprised at this superstition, I asked whether the women were shrifted thus by the Cazi; but I found that the Cazi's Wives confess and absolve the women and maids. One more strange custom they have, that when a man is upon the point of death, they take a little Dog and set it upon the expiring parties breast. When he is just breathing his last, they put the mouth of the Dog to the mouth of the person dying, and cause him to bark twice in that posture, that the Soul of the deceased may enter into the Dog, who they say will deliver it into the hands of the Angel appointed to receive it. Moreover when any Dog happens to die, they carry him out of the City, and pray to God for the Carrion, as if the Beast received any kindness after death by their Prayers. Of the Beasts, which they love or hate. THere are some Beasts which the Gaurs do mightily respect, and to which they give a great deal of Honour. There are others which they as much abhor, and which they endeavoured to destroy as much as in them lies, believing that they were not created by God, but that they came out of the body of the Devil, whose ill nature they retain. The Beasts which they principally admire are the Cow, the Ox, and the Dog. They are expressly forbidden to eat of the flesh of a Cow or an Ox, or to kill them. The reason why they so esteem these Creatures is, because the Ox labours for man, and Ploughs the Ground that produces his food. As for the Cow they more dearly affect her for the Milk she gives, but especially for the purifying quality of her Urine. The Creatures which they abhor are Adders, Serpents, Lizards, Toads, Frogs, Crayfish, Rats, Mice, but above all the rest Cats; which they say are the resemblance of the Devil, who gave them so much strength that a man can hardly kill them; so that they rather suffer the inconveniency of Rats and Mice, than ever to keep a Cat in their Houses. As for the other Animals beforementioned, if any of the Gaurs fall sick, they hire poor people to go and find those Creatures out and kill them; which they reckon in the number of those good works that comfort the Souls of the deceased. The reason why they hate them so, is, because they believe the Devils make use of them to torment the Damned; and therefore they do a work of charity that destroy them, whereby they mitigate the pains and torments of Souls in Hell. The last King of these Gaurs was Sha-Iesherd, who was driven out of his Country by Omar the second, successor to Mahomet. Of the RELIGION of the ARMENIANS, and of their Principal CEREMONIES. CHAP. IX. How the Armenians Consecrate and Administer the Sacrament. SInce the Armenians Traded into Europe and began to be Travellers, their Churches are better set out then they were heretofore. They spare no cost to adorn the Choir and the Altar; you tread upon rich Carpets, and for the structure and embellishments of it, they employ the best Workmen and the choicest Materials they can meet with. From the body of the Church to the Choir there is usually an ascent of five or six Steps. Nor is there above one Altar in any Church, upon which they set the Consecrated Bread, before they set the Chalice where the Wine is. When the Mass for the Ceremony is said by an Archbishop, at the reading of the Gospel they light an abundance of Wax Tapers, which Tapers are like Torches. After the Gospel is read, several of the Noviciates take sticks in their Hands about five foot long, at the end whereof are Latin Plates with little Bells hanging about them, which when they are shaked, imitate the sound of Cymbals. Other Noviciates there are which hold a Copper Plate in their Hands hung about with Bells, which they strike one against another: and at the same time the ecclesiastics and Laity sing together indifferent Harmoniously. All this while the Archbishop has two Bishops of each side of him, who are in the room of a Dean and a Subdean; and when it is time, he goes and unlocks a Window in the Wall on the Gospel side, and takes out the Chalice where the Wine is. Then with all his Music he takes a turn about the Altar, upon which he at length sets down the Chalice, saying certain Prayers. After that, with the Chalice in his hand, and the Bread upon the Chalice, he turns toward the people, who presently prostrate themselves upon the Ground, beat their Breasts, and kiss the Earth, while the Archbishop pronounces these words; This is the Lord who gave his Body and Blood for you. Then he turns toward the Altar, and eats the Bread dipped in the Wine; for they never drink the Wine, but only dip the Bread in it. That done, the Archbishop turns once more toward the people with the Bread and Chalice in his hand, and they that will receive, come one after another to the bottom of the Choir, whither it is not lawful for any Lay-person whatsoever to ascend; to whom the Archbishop gives the Bread dipped in Wine that is in the Chalice, which Bread is without leven, flat, and round, about as thick as a Crown, and as big as the Host of the Mass, being Consecrated the day before by the Priest, whose Office it is. They never put Water in their Communion-Wine; affirming that Water is for Baptism, and that Christ when he instituted the Holy Supper drank it pure, without any mixture of Water. When the Armenians come to the Communion, the Archbishop or the Priest says these words: I confess and believe that this is the Rody and Blood of the Son of God, who takes away the sins of the World, who is not only ours, but the Salvation of all Mankind. The Priest repeats these words three times to the people, to instruct them and to teach them to what end they receive the Sacrament. Every time the Priest says the words, the people say after him word for word; and when the Priest serves the people, he breaks the Host into little bits which he dips in the Wine, and gives to every one of the Communicants. That which I most wonder at is, that they give the Communion to Children of two or three months old, which their Mothers bring in their arms; though many times, the Children put it out of their mouths again. They never administer the Sacrament all the time of their Lent, for than they never say Mass but upon Sunday noon, which they call Low-Mass, at which time they never see the Priest, who has a Curtain drawn before the Altar, and only reads the Gospel and Creed aloud. Sometimes upon Thursday in the Passion week they say Low-Mass about noon, and then they Confess and administer the Sacrament: But generally they stay till Saturday, and then the Communicants, after they have received, are permitted to eat Fish, Eggs, Butter, Oil, or any thing else except Flesh. Upon Easter-day, by break of day, the Priest says Low-Mass, Confesses, and Administers, after which it is lawful to eat Flesh. But the Beasts must be killed upon Easter-day, and not so much as upon Easter-eve. They have four other Feasts in the year, wherein they observe the same Ceremony, eating neither Flesh, Fish, Eggs, Butter, nor Oil for eight days: which four Feasts are Christmas, the Ascension, the Annunciation, and St. George's. Before this last Feast they stretch their devotion to the utmost, for some will fast three days, some five, one after another. CHAP. X. Of the ordination of their Priesthood; and their Austerities. WHen a Father designs his Son to the Priesthood, he carries him to the Priest, who puts the Cope, open on both sides, about his Shoulders; after which the Father and Mother take him home again. This Ceremony is repeated seven times in several years, according to the years of the young Child, till he come to be of age to say Mass. If he be not designed for a Monk, but for the Priesthood, after the fourth time of putting on the Chasuble or open Cope, they marry him: for their Priests marry once, but if that Wife die, if they intent to marry again, they must give over saying Mass. The six first Ceremonies being over, when the Youth comes to the age of 18 years, at what time they are capable of saying Mass, as well those who are designed for Monks, as those who are married Priests, they proceed to the seventh and last Ceremony, which must be performed by an Archbishop or a Bishop; who invests the young Priest with all the Habits which the Priests wear that say Mass. That being done, he goes into the Church, out of which he is not to departed for a whole year; during all which time he is altogether employed in the service of the Church. The Priest who is married, must be five days after he has said Mass before he returns home to eat or drink, or lie with his Wife. And as well the Monks as Priests, when they intent to say Mass again, must remain five days in the Church, without either going to bed or touching any thing with their hands, unless it be the Spoon wherewith they eat their meat: not daring all the while to spit or blow their noses. The next five days after they have said Mass, though such days upon which they might otherwise eat Flesh and Fish, they are obliged to seed upon nothing else but Eggs without Butter, and Rice boiled with Water and Salt. The morning before they celebrate Mass, if the Priest have by chance swallowed a drop of Water, he must not say Mass. Their Austerities are such, that many of their Bishops never eat Flesh or Fish above four times a year; but more than that, when they come to be Archbishops, they only live upon Pulse. They have six months and three days in a year wherein they keep Lent, or particular Fasts, which you please to call them; and during all that time, as well the Ecclesiastical persons as the Laity, feed only upon Bread, and some few Herbs which grow in their Gardens. There was an Armenian of Zulpha whose superstition was so great, that he made his Horse to fast with him, allowing him but very little either to eat or drink for a whole week together. As for the poor labouring people, they only feed upon Pulse, boiled in Water and Salt: for during their chief Lent, they are permitted no more than others, to eat either Butter or Oil; nay though they lay a dying, it is not lawful for them to eat Flesh upon those days wherein that diet is forbidden. They may only eat Walnuts or Small-nuts, Almonds or Pistaches, or some such other Fruit that affords no Oil; and they have this farther liberty, to pound them, and put them among their Pulse or their Herbs, and boil them with Rice. CHAP. XI. Of their Baptism. 'TIS the custom of the Armenians to Baptise their Infants upon Sunday; or if they Baptise any upon the weekdays, it is only in case of necessity, when they think they will not live. The Midwise carries the Infant to Church, and holds it in her arms, till either the Archbishop, the Bishop, or the Priest has said some part of the Form of Baptism. Then he that baptises takes the Infant which is naked, and plunges it in the Water, and then taking it out again, puts it into the hands of the Godfather, and goes on with the Prayers. While he reads them, with the Cotton which he has in his hand he twists a string about half an Ell long. He makes another also of red Silk, which is flat; then twisting those two strings together, he puts them about the Child's neck. They say, that these two strings, one of white Cotton, and the other of red Silk, signifies the Blood and Water which flowed from the Body of CHRIST, when he was wounded with the Lance upon the Cross. Having tied the cord about the neck of the Child, he takes the holy Oil and anoints the Child in several parts of the body, making the sign of the Cross in every place where he drops the Oil; every time pronouncing these words, I baptise thee in the name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost. He first anoints the Forehead, than the Chin, than the Stomach, the Armholes, the Hands and Feet. As to the making this Oil, you must know, that every seven years, upon the Eve of our Lady in September, against which day they observe a small Lent of eight days, the Patriarch makes this holy Oil; there being no person but he who has power to make it. He uses all sorts of fragrant Flowers, and Aromatical Drugs; but the principal Flower is that which the Armenians call in their Language Balassan-Jagué, we in ours, the Flower of Paradise. When the Oil is made, the Patriarch sends two Bottles to all the Covents of Asia, Europe, and Africa, without which they cannot baptise. The Ceremony of Baptism being over, the Godfather goes out of the Church with the Infant in his arms, and a Taper of white Wax in each hand. According to the quality of the person, when the Child is carried out of the Church, the Trumpets, Drums, Hautboys, and other Instruments of the Country make a hideous noise, and go before the Infant to the Parents House, where being arrived, the Godfather delivers the Child to the Mother. She prostrates herself at the same time before the Godfather, kissing his feet; and while she continues in that posture, the Godfather kisses her head. Neither the Father nor Godfather names the Child, but he that baptises gives him the Name of the Saint whose Festival falls upon the Sunday on which the Child is baptised. If there be no Saints day that Sunday in the Almanac, they take the next Name whose Festival succeeds the Sunday of Baptism; so that they have no affected Names among them. Upon the return of the Godfather with the Child home, there is a Feast prepared for all the Kindred and Friends, and him that baptised the Infant, with whom all the Priests and Monks of the Covent, at least of the Parish, go along. The poor people were wont to be so prodigal at these Feasts, as also upon their Marriages and Burials, that the next day they had not wherewithal to to buy Victuals, much less to pay what they have borrowed for so needless an expense. But now the poor Armenians are grown so cunning to avoid the Bastinadoes which are given to Debtors upon the soles of the Feet, when they cannot pay, according to the custom of Persia; that they carry the Child to Church upon the weekdays, without any Ceremony, with tears in their eyes, pretending it to be sickly and like to die, and so make no Feasts at all. If the Women lie in fifteen or twenty days, or two months before Christmas, they defer the baptising the Infant till the Festival, provided the Infant be healthy. Then in all the Cities and Villages where the Armenians live, if there be any River or Pond, they make ready two or three flat-bottomed Boats, spread with Carpets to walk upon; in one of which upon Christmas-day they set up a kind of an Altar. In the morning by Sunrising all the Armenian Clergy, as well of that place as of the parts adjoining, get into the Boats in their Habits, with the Cross and Banner. Then they dip the Cross in the Water three times, and every time they drop the Holy Oil upon it. After that they use the ordinary form of Baptism, which being done, the Archbishop or the Minister plunges the Infant in the River or Pond three times, saying the usual words, I Baptism, etc. and the same anointings as before: though it seems a wonder to me that the extremity of the weather does not kill the Child. The King of Persia is many times present at this ceremony when it is performed at Ispahan, riding on Horseback to the side of the River with all his Nobility. The Ceremony being over he goes to Zulpha to the Kelonter's House, where there is an entertainment prepared for him. Neither is there any place in the World where a King may be entertained with less charge than in Persia. For if any private person invite the King, and that His Majesty pleases to do him that Honour, 'tis but for the inviter to go to the chief of the Officers, and to carry him twenty Tomans, or three hundred Crowns, and to tell him withal, that the King has promised to accept of a small Collation with his Slave. For then the Governor is obliged to send to the House of him that treats the King all things necessary for the entertainment. Else it were impossible to be done, in regard the King eats in nothing but in Gold Plate. At the end of the Feast the King is always presented with some European Rarity, not less worth than four or five thousand Crowns. Or if the person have no Rarity to present, it suffices to offer in a Basin the value in Venetian Ducats of Gold, with all the submission imaginable. Besides all this, some Presents must be given to some of the Lords and principal Eunuches of his train; and others sent to the Queen Mother, if living, and to the Sultaness, his Wives and Sisters. Thus though the entertainment may be made with little trouble, yet otherwise it proves somewhat expensive; though the Armenians of Zulpha are well enough able to bear the charge. I was twice at this Ceremony upon Christmas day in Ispahan. The first time I saw Sha-Sefi, and the second time Sha-Abas the second, who drank both so hard, that in their Drink they committed those crimes that very much stained their memories: For Sha-Sefi returning home stabbed his Wife, the Mother of Sha-Abas. Sha-Abas another time returning home in drink, would needs drink on, and force three women to drink with him; who finding he would not give over, stole out of his Company. The King perceiving them gone without taking leave, in a mad humour sent his Eunuches for them, and caused them to be thrown into the Fire, where the poor wom●● were burnt; for there is no resisting nor examining the King's command. CHAP. XII. Of the Marriages of the Armenians. THE Armenians Mary their Children before either party have seen each other, nay before the Fathers or Brothers know any thing of it- And they whom they intent to Marry must agree to what their Fathers or Parents command them. When the Mothers have agreed among themselves, they tell their Husbands, who approve what they have done. Upon this Approbation, the Mother of the Boy, with two old Women and a Priest come to the House where the Mother of the Daughter lives, and present her a Ring from him whom they intent to betrothe. The Boy appears afterwards, and the Priest reads something out of the Gospel as a blessing upon both parties; after which they give him a sum of Money according to the quality of the Father of the Girl. That done, they present the company with drink, and this is called a betrothing or affiancing. Sometimes they agree a Marriage when the Children are not above two or three years old; sometimes two women that are friends being both with Child at one time together, will make a match between the two Children before they are born, if the one be a Boy and the other a Girl. So soon as they are born the Contract is made; and when once the Boy has given the Ring, thought it be twenty years after before they are Married, he is bound every year upon Easter-day to send his Mistress a new Habit with all the trimming belonging to it according to her quality. Three days before the Celebration of Marriage, the Father and Mother of the Boy prepare a Feast, which is carried to the house of the Father and Mother of the Girl, where the kindred of both parties meet. The Men are in one place by themselves, and the Women in another; for they never eat together at public Feasts. The Evening before the Nuptials the Bridegroom sends a Habit to the Bride; and some time after he comes to receive what the Mother of the Bride has provided for him, on her part. If the Bride has no Mother, some ancient Woman next akin dresses the Bride. At length the Bride gets upon one Horse, and the Bridegroom upon another, each Horse being sumptuously harnessed, with Bridles and Saddles of Gold and Silver, if the persons be rich: those that are poor, and have not Horses of their own, repair to the Great men, who willingly lend theirs upon such an occasion. As they set out from the Virgin's habitation, the Bridegroom goes before with a Veil of Carnation-Tiffany upon his Head, or else of Gold and Silver Network, the Meshes whereof are very close, that reaches below the Stomach. He holds in his Hand one end of a Girdle some three or four els long, and the Bride that rides behind holds the other. She is also covered with a large white Veil from head to foot, that spreads also a good way over the Horse. Under which Veil, that rather seems a large white Sheet, the Bride is hid in such a manner, that there is nothing to be seen of her but her Eyes. Two Men walk on either side of each Horse; and if they be Children of three or four years old (for so young they marry) there are three or four Men to hold them in the Saddle, according to the quality of their Parents. A great Train of young Men, the kindred and acquaintance of both parties, follow after, some a-horseback, some afoot, with Tapers in their hands, as if they were going in Procession: and besides all these, the Drums, Trumpets, Hautboys and other Instruments of the Country, all attending to the Church-door. When they are alighted, every one makes way for the Bridegroom and Bride, who advance up to the foot of the Altar, still holding the Girdle in their hands. Then the Bridegroom and the Bride meet, and lean forehead to forehead. Then comes the Priest, and turning his back to the Altar, lays his Bible upon their Heads, instead of a Desk, a weight sufficiently heavy, as being a thick ponderous Folio. There he lets it lie while he reads the Form of Matrimony, which Office is most usually performed by a Bishop or an Archbishop. The Form is very much like ours. The Bishop demands the Bridegroom, Wilt thou have such a one to thy Wife? then to the Bride he says, Wilt thou have such a one for thy Husband? to which they both answer with a nod of the Head. The Matrimonial Benediction being given, they hear Mass; which being ended, they return both together to the Daughter's habitation, in the same order as they set out. These Nuptials last three days: where the Women drink more than the Men. The Man goes to Bed first, the Woman pulling off the man's Breeches, though she does not lay aside her Veil till the Candle be put out. Let it be what time in the year it will, the Woman rises before day. So that there be some Armenians that in ten years after they are married never saw their Wife's faces, nor ever heard them speak. For though her Husband may speak to her, and all the rest of her kindred, yet she never answers but with a Nod. The Women never eat with their Husbands; but if the Men feast their Friends to day, the Women feast theirs the next day. CHAP. XIII. How the Armenians Bury their Dead. SO soon as any person dies, one appointed for the Services of the Dead runs immediately to the Church to fetch a Pot of Holywater, which he presently pours into a great Vessel full of Water, into which they put the dead Corpse. This man is called Mordichou, or the person that washes the Dead; which Mordichou's are so much detested among the people, that it is an ignominy to eat or drink with those sort of people. Whatever the party deceased has about him at the time of his death belongs to them, though it be any excellent Jewel; for it is the custom of the East to lie in their Breeches, Shirt, and Waistcoat, in regard they never make use of Bed-cloaths. So soon as the Corpse is washed, they dress it with a clean white Shirt, a pair of Breeches, a Waistcoat, and a Bonnet, all new, never having been worn before. Then they put the Body in a linen Sack, and sow up the mouth of it. That being done, the Priests come and take up the Body to carry it to Church, which is attended by all the kindred and friends of the deceased, with every one a Taper in his hand. Being come to Church, they set down the Corpse before the Altar, where the Priest says certain Prayers; and then setting up lighted Tapers round about the Corpse, they leave it so all night. The next day in the morning a Bishop or an ordinary Priest says Mass, at the end whereof they carry the Body before the door of the Bishop's house, attended as before; at what time the Bishop comes forth and says a Prayer for the Soul of the deceased. Then eight or ten of the poorer sort that are next at hand, carry the Body to the Churchyard. All the way they sing certain Dirges, which the Priests continue, while the Body is let down into the Grave. Then the Bishop takes three handfuls of Earth, and throws them one after another into the Grave, pronouncing these words; From Earth thou cam'st, to Earth thou shalt return, and stay there till our Lord comes. These words being said, they fill up the Grave. Those of the kindred and friends that will go back find a Collation ready; and if any other persons will go along, they are not refused. For seven days also they allow Dinners and Suppers to certain Priests and poor people, if they are persons of ability: believing no Soul departed can be saved, unless the survivors are at that expense. Whence it comes to pass, that so many of the poor people are so miserable, and Slaves to the Mahometans, by borrowing Money to defray those expenses, which they are not able to pay again. When an Archbishop or a Bishop dies, they add this farther Ceremony, that an Archbishop or a Bishop writes a little Note, and cutting open the Sack puts the Note into the Hand of the deceased, wherein are these words; Remember thyself, that from Earth thou cam'st, and to Earth thou shalt return. If a Slave die before enfranchised, when the Body is brought into the Church, the Master writes a Note, wherein are these words; Let him not grieve, I make him free, and give him his liberty. For they believe that he would be reproached in the other World for being a Slave, for which his Soul might suffer tribulation. If the Master be dead, the Mistress does the same. If an Armenian makes away himself, they never carry the Body out of the door of the house, but make a hole in the wall, where they can most conveniently, and carry him to his Grave without any Ceremony. The night preceding the Feast of the Holy Cross, Men, Women, and Children go to the Churchyard, whither they carry good store of Food, not forgetting their Wine. Immediately they fall a weeping over the Graves of the dead, and after they have spent some time in that doleful Exercise, they all fall to eating and drinking; thus passing the whole night by turns, in blub'ring, eating, and bubbing. As for the poor people, they would think themselves undone, and the most unfortunate in the world, should they want Provision and Wine to go to the Churchyards, the night before the Feast of St. George, where they go to frolic it, rather than to pray for the Dead. There may be some few Armenians that embrace Mahometanism for worldly Interest, but they are generally the most obstinate persons in the world, and most firm to their superstitious Principles. CHAP. XIV. Examples of the Constancy of the Armenians, in maintaining their Religion against the Persecutions of the Mahometans. IT is the custom of the Armenians, that when any one of them apostatises, and desires to return again to the Church, he cannot have Absolution but at the same City or Village where he first abjured his Religion. Now it happened that a young Armenian being sent to Smyrna with a very considerable quantity of Goods, and falling to debauchery, turned Mahometan, to the end he might defraud his Father and his Brethren of their Estate, according to Haly's Law, already mentioned. But after he had spent good part of the Goods in Debauchery, he returned to the Three Churches, where the Grand Patriarch lived, to be absolved from his Fault; but the Patriarch telling him he must go to the Bishop of Smyrna, he went accordingly; and in some few days after he had undergone the Penance enjoined him, he went to the Cadi, and with a great Resolution, Sir, said he, you know that some years since I turned Mahometan; now I come to declare before ye that I have repent, and do repent of the foul Crime I committed, when I denied the Saviour of the World, and embraced your wicked Law. The Cadi, who thought it had been at first only some evaporation of Extravagance, endeavoured to reclaim him by fair words and promises; but when he heard him persist in his resolution, when he heard him curse and blaspheme Mahomet, he caused him to be carried to the Piazza, where he was cut to pieces immediately. For no persons go with more courage and joy to suffer for their Faith, than the Armenians. In the year 1651 there happened to be a Wedding between a young Turk and a Virgin of the same Nation. To this Wedding was invited an Armenian Lady, who was a great friend of the Bridegroom's Mother. The Armenian had an only Son of about twelve years of age, that earnestly desired to go along with her; at first she refused him, knowing that after the age of five or six years, no Youth is permitted to be in company with the Turkish Women or Maids. But the Boy still pressing his Mother, and being seconded by an Aunt, who to please her Nephew, told her she might let him go in Girls Apparel; at last the indulgent Mother, overruled by the importunity of the Child, took him along with her in a female dress. Three days the solemnity of the Turkish Weddings last: but the very first day, an old Gipsy-Turk casting her Eye upon the young Armenian, and finding him too sparkish and too nimble for a Girl, suspected his Sex; and calling his Mother aside, told her, that by all the gestures and actions of the Child, she could be no Girl, but a Boy in disguise. The Mother not only denied the matter, but also seemed highly offended at the old Woman's suspicion; who as much incensed to have her judgement questioned, decoyed the Child among the Eunuches of the Family, and caused him to be searched; and finding herself in the right, spread it presently about the house. Immediately the people cried that the Chambers were defiled, that the Armenian Lady had done it in derision of their Law; and seizing Mother, Aunt, and Youth, carried them all before the Bassa, demanding Justice. The Bassa dismissed the Mother and the Aunt, but kept the Youth six or seven days, hoping the rage of the people would be over. But in vain he strove to plead for the Child, though the Father offered them half the weight of him in Gold, for the Bassa was forced to deliver him up into the hands of the married Woman's kindred; who carried the Child to the Marketplace of the City, where they stripped him stark naked; and first they flayed him from his Neck behind down to the Wast, and so left him with a Guard upon him all night. The Cadi and Moullah's exhorted the Child to turn Mahometan, and they would preserve him from further mischief. His Mother begged him to have pity upon her and himself, and to turn Mahometan to save his life. But neither tears, nor all the tender words that grief and affection could inspire, could shake the constancy of the Infant, who with a resolute utterance answered, that he had hitherto suffered, and still would suffer patiently; and that nothing grieved him, but that his Mother should exhort him to deny his Saviour. Next day the pitiless Turks came and flayed all his Breast and his Stomach, and so left him all night under a Guard, intending to have flayed him part by part every day. But the Bassa abhorring their Cruelty, came the next day with his Guards, and caused his Head to be cut off. Van is a City peopled as well with Armenians as Turks; so that it is a usual thing for the Armenian and Turkish Boys to play together. One day it unfortunately fell out, that the Boys playing one among another, and flinging Stones at each other, an Armenian Boy hit a young Turk full upon the Temples, and struck him dead. Presently the other Turkish Boys and the Rabble seized him, and carried him to the Bassa; the Father and Mother of the Child slain followed with hideous outcries, bawling for justice, or that the Boy should turn Mahometan to expiate his fault. The Armenian Parents offered a large sum of Money to redeem their Child; but the adverse party obstinate against all accommodation, the Bassa was constrained to deliver the Child, giving sentence that the young Armenian should endure the same death the Turk had suffered, and no other. Immediately the Turks hurried the poor Child to the place where he had unfortunately slain his playfellow; and after the Parents of the young Turk had had the two first hits, he was presently brained by a shower of Stones from the Rabble. Yet as near death as he knew himself to be, without any disturbance at all, he exhorted his weeping play-fellows to stand firm to the Faith of Jesus Christ, for which he was going to die. Another time an Armenian Merchant coming from the Indies to Grand Cairo, went to the Coffee-house according to custom, being a rendezvous of all the Merchants in the Town. There falling into discourse, by reason of the heat of the weather, he took off his Bonnet made after the Armenian fashion of divers Colours, and laid it behind him, keeping his black Cap only upon his head. When the Moullah came about to hasten the people to go away according to the custom, which I have already declared, the Armenian hastily rising up, a Turk, concealing the Merchant's Bonnet, clapped his own Bonnet upon his head. Upon that all the Turkish Merchants that were there came and congratulated the Armenian Merchant, telling him, how glad they were to see that he had embraced the good Law. At which words the Armenian surprised, takes off the Turban, throws it to the Ground before all the Company, and stamped it under foot. This action of contempt so enraged the Turks, that they carried him before the Bassa, before whom it was in vain to justify himself, or to affirm that the Turban was maliciously put upon his head; for the Turks swore the contrary, and that he took it of his own accord, and therefore he must either turn Turk or die for it. Upon his refusal they put him in Prison, and in a few days the sentence was brought him from the Mufti and Cadi, that he must either turn or be burnt alive. The severity of the sentence overpowered him at first to embrace the Mahometan Law. But four or five years after returning from the Indies to Cairo, he came where the Bassa was sitting in Council with the Grandees of the Country, and getting as near the Mufti as he could, and throwing his Turban in his face; There Dog, said he, Thou wert the cause that I have worn it so long, of which I have repent, and do repent from the bottom of my heart; for I know that neither thou nor thy Law are worth a Straw. At the same time the crowd laid hold of him, and dragged him to the Piazza, where he died in the midst of the flames with an admirable constancy. A rich Merchant of Zulpha, called Cotgia Soultenon, was so well beloved by Sha-Sefi, that he often went to Dine at his house, But one day it fell out that the King having eat and drank to excess, upon his return home fell cropsick, upon which the report ran that the Armenian had poisoned him. Which report coming to his ears, fearing lest the King should die, and himself be put to cruel Torments, he took a dose of Poison and died. Which when the King, who was well again the next day, understood, he was very much troubled for his death. The same Cotgia Soultenon had a Cafer sent him from Melinda for a Slave; who being young and very apprehensive soon learned the Persian and Turkish Languages, and was instructed in the Christian Religion, and Christened by the name of Huzod or Joseph. After his Master's death he turned Mahometan, and so continued twenty years. At the end whereof returning to Zulpha, he begged pardon of the Church; and all the rest of his days so crucified himself with Fasting, that every one pitied him; and when the Armenian Bishops told him he had done well, he made no other answer, but that he was not worthy to live upon the Earth who had denied his Saviour, only he hoped that he would have mercy upon him; and so continued his austere penance till he died. CHAP. XV. Of the Author's reception at the Court of Persia in his sixth and last Voyage, and what he did there during his stay at Ispahan. Iarrived at Ispahan the 20 th' of December, 1664. So soon as the Nazar was informed of my arrival, he sent the Kelonter or chief of the Armenians with seven or eight more to congratulate my arrival, and to assure me of all the kind Offices he could do me. The next day he sent the same Armenians with four Horses; and to tell me that the King had a desire to see what I had brought; for which purpose the Kelonter had order to furnish me with men. Thereupon I took Horse, accompanied by all the Franks that were at Zulpha. When I came to Court, I was brought into the place where all the great Ambassadors had audience, where I found attending the Nazar, and Father Raphael superior of the order of the Capuchins, ready to deliver me my Box of Jewels which I had left with him in the Covent for more security. After I had exposed my Goods upon a fair Table covered with a Carpet of Gold and Silver, and that the Nazar had disposed every thing in order with his own hand, the King entered, attended only by three Eunuches for his Guard, and two old men, whose office it was to pull off his Shoes when he goes into any Room spread with Gold and Silk Carpets, and to put them on again when he goes forth. The King had nothing on but a single pair of Drawers of Taffeta, chequered red and white, which came half way the Leg, his feet being bare; a short Cassock that came but half way his body, with a large Cloak of Cloth of Gold with hanging-sleeves down to the Ground, furred with Sable Martin. The first thing I showed was a large Candlestick of Crystal of the Rock, the richest piece of that nature that ever was seen. The next was a suit of Tapestry hang held up by several men, as I had appointed. The Nazar then caused me to advance and do my obeisance to the King, who presently knowing my Face again; Oh, said he to the Nazar, This is the Fringui Aga who sold me so many Rarities about six years ago, when Mahomet Beg was Athemadoulet. After that the Nazar showed him all my Rarities as they lay in order. Among the rest I besought His Majesty by Friar Raphaël, to accept of a great Steel Mirror, which when he looked in, he wondered to see his Face so big. But when Friar Raphael had told him the nature of it, he caused it to be held to one of his Eunuches, which had a monstrous Hawk Nose, the sight whereof held him in laughter and divertisement for above a quarter of an hour. After that the King retired, leaving me alone with the Nazar and Friar Raphel. As for my Jewels I put them up myself, and had a place assigned me to Lock them up and keep the Key, but for my large pieces of Goldsmith's work, the Nazar committed them to the trust of one of the principal Officers of the House. The next day early in the morning the Nazar sent for me and Father Raphael, and made his Secretary write down the price of every thing, according to his demands. He had also his own Artists to prise them; but that I did not value, in regard I knew the price much better than they. After he had showed the Jewels, price and all to the King, we were several times before we could agree; but at length he told me, that the King would give me Twentyfive in the Hundred profit for all the Stones; leaving me the Pearls, which he thought I might put off at a better price in the Indies; which was an offer I could not refuse, and therefore I signed the Agreement according to the Nazar's desire: Which when his Majesty had seen, he bid the Nazar tell me I should be his Jeweller in Ordinary, and that for my sake all the Franks should be the better used within his Territories, and that I should have any favour of him that I desired. I besought his Majesty to give me his Patent with his Seal affixed, whereby I might be privileged to Trade in his Dominions, without paying Custom for such and such Merchandise, and in in such manner as I should think fitting. I also besought him graciously to grant his Protection to a Nephew of mine, whom I had left at Tauris to learn the Language, that he might be serviceable to his Majesty when I was dead and gone. Thereupon he caused my Nephew to be enrolled presently as one of his Domestic Servants, and ordered the Nazar to take particular care of him. The next day after my agreement with the Nazar, the King gave audience in the great Hall of the Palace to the Ambassador of the Vsbeck-Tartars. All the Lords and Officers of the Crown stood in the Court where the Ambassador was to pass: there were also nine stately Horses, whose Furniture was very rich, and all different. Two Harnesses were covered with Diamonds, two with Rubies, two with Emeralds, two with Turquoises, and one embroidered with fair Pearls. Had he been an Ambassador from a Monarch for whom the King of Persia had had a greater esteem than he had for the Cham of Tartary, there had been thirty Horses: for according to the value which the King puts upon the Prince that sends to him, he either augments or abates of the number of his Horses of State. Every Horse is tied by the Reins to a Nail of Gold fastened in the Ground, with a Hammer of Gold lying by. There was another Nail of Gold behind, with a Cord tied to it, that held their hinder legs. They set also before every Horse a Cauldron of Gold, out of which they draw up Water into a great Manger; though all this be only for State, for they never water their Horses in that place. Out of the first Court the Ambassador entered into a large Gallery, between a long File of Musqueteers on each side. Thence he entered into a Garden through an Alley about eight Fathom broad, all paved with great Marble Stones, in the middle of which runs a Channel of Water four Foot wide, with several Water-works that spurted out of the Channel at equal distances. On each side of the Walk to the Hall where the King sat, there is a Pond almost as long as the Walk, and in the middle of the Pond another sort of Water-works. Several Officers of the Army were ranged all along the Alley; and at the end of one of the Ponds were four Lions tied; and at the end of the other, three Tigers couchant upon Carpets of Silk, having Men to guard them with Half-pikes in their hands. The Hall took up more ground in length then in breadth, being open every way; the Ceiling was sustained by sixteen wooden Pillars, of eight panels every one, and of a prodigious thickness and height. As well the Ceiling as the Pillars were all painted with Foliage-work in Gold and Azure, with certain other Colours mixed therewith. In the middle of the Hall was a Vase of excellent Marble, with a Fountain throwing out Water after several manners. The Floor was spread with Gold and Silk Carpets, made on purpose for the place: and near to the Vase was a low Scaffold one Foot high, twelve Foot long, and eight wide, covered with a magnificent Carpet. Upon this Scaffold sat the King upon a foursquare Cushion of Cloth of Gold, with another Cushion behind him covered with the same, set up against a great Tap'stry-Hanging, wrought with Persian Characters, containing the Mysteries of the Law. On each side of the King stood several Eunuches with Muskets in their hands. The King commanded the Athemadoulet and four others to sit down by him, and the Athemadoulet made me a sign to sit down; but the King knowing how little the Franks care for sitting crosslegged, ordered me to be told that I might stand upright, if I thought good. The King was clad in a Silk streaked with Gold: His Cloak was a Gold-ground with Flowers of Silk and Silver, Furred with a Martin Sable, the blackest and most glistering that ever was seen. His Girdle was very rich, and upon his Bonnet he wore a plume of Herons Feathers fastened with a transparent Jewel; in the middle of the Jewel was a Pear-fashioned Pearl, set with great Topaze's and Rubies. About half an hour after the King was sat, the Nazar and the Master of the Ceremonies brought the Ambassador, who neither himself nor any of his Train were very well clad, and caused him to stay at the foot of the steps into the Hall from the Garden. When the Ambassador had ascended the steps, he prostrated himself before the King, then advancing nine or ten paces he did the same again; after which the Master of the Ceremonies caused him to sit down, leaving between him and the King space enough for eight men. After that I observed that the Nazar went often between the King and the Ambassador, and between the Ambassador and the King; but I could not tell what they said. So that I being by that time quite tired, made my obeisance to the King, and went home to my Lodging. The next day the Nazar signified to me that it was the King's pleasure to favour me with a complete Calaat, or Habit of Honour, and to pay me my money. This is the God worthy to be praised. The Kingdom belongs to God The God of Mercy to the Compassionate O Mahomet OHaly: the God most high. the Prophets. These great Characters with those that are upon the side of the names of the 12 Prophets signify. To the Name of God. God who is the aid of Mahomet. The King who has all power. Severat, jafar, Elfeteseni, Elmoussi. These are the names of the four Prophets that have followed the Doctrine of Haly. This Contain the Names of the 12 Prophets without their surnames. Aly Hassen Hossein Alizein Maham jafar Moussa Alj Mahomet Haly Hassen Mahomet That which is under the Names of the 12 Prophets signifies as follows. He who at this time enjoys the Kingdom The Victorious Abas the second. this is that t. which is on the King's seal Mahomet Methi son of Habi Bala of the race of Sophi. This is that t. which is Contained in the seal of the Aemadoulet or first Minister of State & the seal in the Original is set behind, no man daring to fix his seal on the side of the Kings. The next day in the Morning being sent for to the Court, I found the Nazar, the Grand Treasurer, and several other great Officers expecting me in the Treasury, where the Money lay ready in sealed Bags. My Sum amounted to three thousand four hundred and sixty Tomans, of which the Treasurer would have abated me a hundred and sixty for Fees. After a long contest, I gave him half, and carried away my Money; having first weighed two Bags, Toman by Toman, and then weighed the rest of the Bags, Bag by Bag. CHAP. XVI. Of the Honours and Presents which the Author received from the King of Persia. THE day following one of the Nazar's principal Officers brought me the complete Calaat, consisting of Vest, Tunick or Super-Vest, Girdle, and Bonnet. He also delivered me three Patents, sealed by his Majesty and the Athemadoulet, which exempted me from paying any Customs within his Kingdom. Another to the Can of Schiras, with a little Seal or Signet, commanding him to let me have three Loads of good Wine when I travelled that way. A third with his Signet, in favour of my Nephew at Tauris; wherein the King declared that he owned him as his Domestic Servant, and that he was under his Protection. The First PATENT ran thus: THE Command of him whom all the Universe obeys has been made, That the Beglerbegs of High Nature, the victorious and great Lords, Ornaments of the Kingdom, Possessors of Honour, the Judges in high place, practisers of Justice, the Viziers who preserve Reason, and have in their thoughts the removal of Vice, and the Commissioners who act in affairs and difficulties of the Palace, the Overseers of the Roads, and the Conservators of the good Customs of the well-ordered Kingdoms of Kragon (which God preserve from all misfortune) MAY KNOW, That whereas the choicest of his Resemblers and Companions, * Aga TAVERNIER, French Merchant has brought so many Rarities of all sorts to the presence and view of the Lieutenant of the Eagles, who has all things according to his wish, has found the degree of favour and good will. And whereas We have commanded him to perfect some Business for Us, which so soon as he has finished, he is to bring to the holy and pure view. Therefore through, whatsoever Road or Coast of Our Thrice-spacious Kingdom the abovenamed shall have a desire or occasion to pass, Let not the Receivers of the Palace, out of any seeming expectance from the abovenamed, give him any trouble or molestation. But let them know, that it is necessary for them to give him all honour, and to make much of him, that he may go where he pleases. And whereas the Seal of High Nature, the Light of the Universe of Kragon, of thrice-noble extraction, the Master of the Age, has illuminated and adorned this Writing, Let them rest there, and give Credence to it. By the thrice-high Command, etc. Kragon: A King of China, so renowned for his Justice, Victory, and Magnanimity, that sometimes the Kings of Persia assume that Title in their Patents, and sometimes in honour of him, style themselves his Lieutenants. Receivers of the Palace, are Farmers of the Customs and other Subsidies. The Second PATENT. To the Governor of Schiras, THE Command of Him whom all the world ought to obey, is such, That the Illustrious and High Lord, whose Office ought to be honoured, the Governor and Prototype of Viziers and Grandees, Mirza-Mahomet-Sadée, the Visier of Fars may be assured of Royal Favours when he understands the Contents of this Command. He shall give three Loads of Wine, of that which he has in his custody, to the Cream of his Equals, Aga TAVERNIER, French Merchant, and you shall take an Acquittance. All the Grand Viziers, and Officers of Customs, and Guarders of Passes also let them not molest him at all, let them take nothing from him, let them permit him to go and come as he pleases, and let them obey him. Given the Month of Jamady-Elaker, in the Hegyra of Mahomet 1075. January, 1665. The Cream, is the Character of an honest man among the Eastern people. But to return to the Calaat. You must take notice, that the Persians call a Calaat, any Present which one person makes to another inferior to him in dignity; sometimes a Vest alone, sometimes a Tunick with the Girdle only, sometimes a Turban, or a Horse, with Bridle and Saddle; to those in the Army the King sends a Sword or a Dagger, and all these go by the name of Calaat's. Secondly, you must take notice, that when the King sends a Calaat to a Governor of a Province, he names himself the person, that is to carry it. For both in Turkey and Persia, the Receiver of the King's Present is obliged to pay the Messenger, in so much that sometimes they hardly scape for a thousand Tomans. But when the Calaat is sent to any private person, the Nazar chooses out of his Domestic Servants one to carry it. I gave twenty-five Tomans into Father Raphael's hand, who ordered his business with so good a grace, and so advantageously for my Purse, that he complemented away the Messenger very well satisfied with half. The next day the Nazar sent to me to put on my Calaat, and to come and do my obeisance to the King, who was that day to go abroad. Thereupon I summoned together all the Franks, and ordered the Trumpets and Drums to be made ready as I road from the Palace home. For then the people come out to see who the King has honoured that day, who is always known by his Habit, which is still the newest and gayest of all the rest. It happened, that the King being indisposed did not go away that day; however I applied myself to the Nazar, and told him how much I was obliged to the King for the honour he had done me, and that I was resolved to show myself before the greatest Monarches in Europe in the Habit he had bestowed upon me; that they might behold the beauty and richness of my Calaat. The Nazar failed not to repeat my Compliment to his Majesty; who thereupon ordered me the Persian Cloak, with hanging-sleeves, and faced with sable martin's. Two or three days after the Nazar sent for me again to Court, whither I went, accompanied by the Zulphian Franks, as before. I was no sooner come to the Palace, but the Nazar met me in the great Hall, attended by two Officers, who carried the Cloak which the King had appointed for me, and presently taking the Cloak out of their hands, he put it about my shoulders, saying these words, It is the King's pleasure to honour thee entirely. It was a most magnificent piece of Silk, and very richly furred, having been valued at eight hundred Crowns. In this I was particularly beholding to the Nazar, who might have sent me my Cloak home to my Lodging as well as the Calaat; but he was pleased to put it upon my back in the Palace with his own hands, to spare me the charges of a new Present. After this the Nazar took me by the hand, and led me to the Hall, where the King was sitting upon a large Cushion, having no more than twelve Eunuches for his Guard; some with Bows and Arrows, and some with Muskets. By that time I had advanced two or three paces in the Hall, the Nazar ordered me to fall upon my knees, and touch the Ground with my forehead; then taking me by the hand, he led me within two or three paces of the place where the King was sitting, where I was ordered to make the same obeisance as before; after that he caused me to retire seven or eight paces, and there to stand. And then it was that His Majesty was pleased to tell me, that he had contrived the Models of several pieces, which he would have made in France; and asked me whether I would carry them along with me, or whether I would presently send them into France to be made up while I dispatched my business in the Indies? I told His Majesty, that so soon as he would be pleased to deliver them to me, I would send them for France. After this and some other discourse I made my obeisance, and retired toward the door of the Hall. Having thus done my duty to the King, I went and kissed the Nazar's hand; and then taking Horse at the Palace-Gate, with the rest of the Franks that accompanied me, we road home with the Trumpets and Drums of the Country before us. When we came to Zulpha with our Torches before us, for it was three hours after Sunset, the Men and old Women came out of their Houses to see us pass along, and several presented us with Fruits, Sweetmeats, and Wine, obliging us to drink almost at every House till we got home. CHAP. XVII. How the King was pleased to divertise himself in the Author's Company. ABout two days after betimes in the Morning I was sent for to the Court in that haste, that I had scarce time to make me ready. When I came to Court, I found the Nazar, Father Raphel, and two Hollanders, upon whom the Nazar had began to cast a particular eye of favour all together. After we had stayed a while, the Nazar brought us to the Room where the Ring was, sitting upon a low Pallet, with two Mattresses covered with a rich Carpet. He leaned his back against a large Cushion four foot long, having before him eight or ten Plates of Fruits and Sweetmeats. Before him also stood two Bottles, with long round necks of Venice Crystal stopped with Pitch, full of Schiras Wine, with a Cup of pure Gold; upon one side a kind of a very small Fat and with a handle, within three or four Fingers full of the same Wine, with a Gold Ladle that held a good Chopine of Paris. The Bottles were for the King's drinking; that in the Fat for those that the King did the Honour to drink with him. After we came in and had made our several obeisances; said the King to Father Raphael, Raphael, bia, bia, that is, come hither, come hither, who thereupon rising, and falling upon his knees when he came near the King; Raphael, continued the King, if thou wilt drink Wine, stay here, if not, be gone. The Friar unaccustomed to drink Wine, replied that since His Majesty did him so great an Honour, he was willing to drink a little. 'Tis very well, answered the King smiling, go then and take thy seat. Thereupon the King commanded one of the Dutchmen to fill some Wine, which he did, but with a trembling hand Heaven knows, as never having been at such a Festival before. And I observed that having laid his Hat upon the Carpet; the King commanded him to put it on, it being a very ignominious thing in Persia to be bareheaded. Thus the great Ladle went about very smartly, considering it was but early in the Forenoon: But at length the King bethinking himself that the Franks were not used to drink without eating, gave such order, that immediately they spread before us a Sofra of Cloth of Gold instead of a Tablecloth; and over that a Leather Covering of the same length and breadth, and over that a sort of Bread as long as the Sofra; for had the Sofra been ten els long, the Bread must have been as long. This Bread is no thicker than a piece of Paper, and folds like a Napkin. It is made with a Rolling-pin, and baked upon Plates of Tinned Copper. This Bread is never eaten, but only serves for a Tablecloth to preserve what falls from the Dishes, and what every man leaves particularly upon his own Plate, which is all wrapped up in the Leather and given to the poor. Next to that they set upon one end of the Sofra a sort of most excellent Bread two foot long, and one broad, than which never was better eaten in the World. By and by followed Boiled and Roast flesh and fish, with two Chests of Lemons of Mazandran, and Granates from Schiras. After we had made a large Breakfast, the King was pleased to put me upon a discourse of my Travels into the Indies, and asked me what Princes I had had access to, and how many I knew by their faces? Then causing a Satchel to be brought him, he opened it himself, and showed me several portraitures in Miniature. Presently I knew Sha-Gehan, Aurenge-Zebe, and three of his Sons; the King of Golconda and Visapour; Sha-Est-Kan, and two rajas. Among the rest he showed me a Persian Lady's Picture and gave it me; to the end, said he, that your French Ladies may see how our Persian Ladiés are clad. After that he showed me the Pictures of two Venetian Courtesans, the one a Widow, and the other a Virgin, with a Parrot upon her hand clad after the French mode. Upon which the King putting the question to me which I liked best? I replied that she pleased me best who had the Parrot upon her fist. And why not the other said the King? Because, answered I, she looks like one that had renounced the world. Thereupon the King falling into a laughter, and turning toward Father Raphael; Patri, Patri, said he, is it possible that such a Lady as this should have renounced the World? This led us into a discourse of beauty, wherein when the King demanded my opinion, I told him that women's beauty depended very much upon the Custom of the Country; for that in Japan Women with broad faces were most in request; in China small feet were admired; in the Isles of Borneo and Achen, Women the blacker their Teeth were, the more they were beloved; that in the Island of Macasser, to make their Women lovely, they pull out four of their Teeth when they are young, to put in four of Gold in their room; as I have seen a Captain of Java, who pulled out four of his fore Teeth, and set four Diamonds in their place. In short, I told His Majesty that in his own Dominions full Eyebrows which meet together were highly esteemed; whereas the Women of France pull them up by the Roots. But which, said the King, dost thou like best, the black or the fair? Sir, continued I, were I to buy Women as I purchase Diamonds, Pearls, and Bread, I would always choose the whitest. With that the King fell a laughing, and ordered me a brimmer in his own Cup, which was a great Honour indeed. From hence we fell into a more serious discourse concerning the present State of Europe, speaking very low, and the rest of the Company retiring all the while out of hearing. Only I observed that there was one Lord middle aged, and clad after the Georgian mode, who stood within five or six paces behind the King, and that many times as the King drank, he only wet his Lips, and gave the rest to that Lord to drink, which when he had done, he retired again to his place. Upon inquiry I found he was the King's Uncle by the Mother's side. While we were talking of serious things the Courtesans were bid to retire out of the Hall, which they did, into a Gallery that looked upon a Garden, where they sat, where immediately a Sofra was laid before them covered with Fruits and Sweetmeats, and one of their Society continually poured out the Wine which they drank round without intermission: One would have thought they should have been fuddled; yet when they came in again, no man could perceive they had been drinking. After they had Danced a while, they were ordered to retire again, and the King sent for his Music, which was both Vocal and Instrumental; his Instrumental Music consisted of a kind of a Lute, a Guittar, a Spinet, and two or three Base Flutes. He had also in the Gallery where the Courtesans were, a large Ebony Cabinet eight foot high, adorned with several Silver figures, which proved to be an Organ that went alone. It was part of the present which the Muscovite Ambassadors made the King, which he ordered to be set a going, that we might hear it as we sat. No sooner had the Organ stopped, but the Courtesans were called in again, and the King caused the Gold Ladle to go round, commanding that no man should leave a drop. When every man had done, the King was pleased to ask me which of the Curtisan's I thought to be handsomest? Thereupon I risen up, and taking a Wax-Candle in my hand, I went and viewed them all. The King laughed, and being very glad to see my face among theirs, Bring hither, said he, her to whom thou hast most a fancy. In obedience to which, I picked out the eldest, as I thought, and led her to his Majesty, who caused us to sit down by him. Then the King pointing to another, And why, said he, did you not chose yonder Girl, which is younger and handsomer; commanding them both to kiss me one after another, that I might understand the difference between the Caresses of one and the other. But I replied, that were I to choose again, I would make the same choice, believing prudence to accompany age. However I besought his Majesty to consider, that it was not for me to look upon elder or younger, and that though he had given me the liberty to send the elder home to my Lodging, yet it was not in my power to accept of his favour, in regard I had a Wife, to whom I never had been unfaithful. We had thus drolled together till eleven a Clock at night, when the King started another Question, Whether any one present knew how to Sing? It happened that there was one Monsieur Daulier there, that Played upon the Virginals, and pretended to Sing, who immediately began a Court-Air. But his Voice being a high-pitched Voice, and for that the Persians are altogether for Bases, the King did not like him. When I perceived that, being in a merry vein, though I knew not a Note, yet having a good deep voice, and clear, I sung an old Air that came into my head, which gins, Fill all the Bowls then, fill'em high, Fill all the Glasses there, for why Should every Creature drink but I? The King was so pleased, that he cried out, Baricala, Baricala, as much as to say, Oh the works of God an expression of admiration usual among the Persians. By this time it was very late, and the King growing sleepy, gave us leave to departed; which we did very willingly, having had hard labour for seventeen hours together. The next night the King fell a drinking again, and there was in his presence an Agi or Pilgrim newly returned from Mecca, and consequently obliged never to drink Wine after that. While this Agi stayed, there was one of the Persian Lords got so impertinently fuddled, that he twice struck the Agi's Turban from his head, refused to drink when the King commanded him, played the fool with the Courtesans when they were dancing, and committed so many other acts of folly, that the King incensed at such a continuation of Buffoonery, in a great fury, This Rascal, said he, has lost all his respect, and thinks he is no more my Slave; drag him out by the feet, and throw him to the Dogs to eat. Immediately four or five of the King's Officers came and dragged him out of the Hall by the feet, and every body wondered he was not thrown to the Dogs, according to the King's Command; but 'tis thought that some of the King's Women begged for him, so that his punishment was changed. There was one of the Courtesans that gave one of her Companions a box on the ear, not in the King's presence, but in the Gallery where they were drinking together. However she did not strike so softly, but that the King heard the noise of the blow. Whereupon he commanded her that had given the blow to be had before the Deroga or Judge of the Town, whom he ordered to expunge her out of the number of Courtesans, and to put another in her place; that she should have a hundred Tomans given her, and that the Deroga should cause her to be married. The next day I waited on the King, and received those Models which he had bespoke me to send into France. They were the Patterns of certain Drinking-Cups and Trenchers, with the Model of a Dagger drawn with his own hand: for he had learned to draw of a couple of Dutchmen that were in his Service. The Dagger was to be Goldsmith work enamelled. When I had received his Instructions, I took my leave of his Majesty: and then going to wait upon the Nazar at his Countryhouse, I took leave of him also, who assured me of his affection upon all occasions, and did me several kindnesses at my departure. The End of the Fourth BOOK. THE FIFTH BOOK OF THE PERSIAN TRAVELS OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER: BEING A Politic and Historical Description of PERSIA: With the ROADS FROM ISPAHAN to ORMUS. CHAP. I. The Genealogy of the Kings of Persia, of the last Race. AFter that Tamerlane had extended his Conquests into Asia, and defeated the Army of Bajazet, whom he took Prisoner, together with his Wife, he returned into Persia, where at that time lived a Cheik, whose name was Aidar, a person in high reputation for his Holiness. He was a person of great wit, and the first in the dignities of the Law, which gained him great authority and belief among the people. He gave great honour to Tamerlane, and showed Eminent kindnesses to all the Officers of his Army; in recompense whereof, Tamerlane, who was a generous Prince, and full of gratitude, made a Present to the Cheik of a great number of Captives, which he brought along with him out of Turkey. The Cheik planted one part of these Slaves about Ardevile, and seated the other near his own residence. Now in regard he assumed to himself to be descended in a direct line from Mahomet, he covered his head after another manner than all the rest of the Persians, wearing a kind of flat Bonnet, growing broader and broader to the top, and so plighted, as to make twelve Plights of a Ruff, in honour of the twelve Prophets. In the middle, a kind of a Pyramid about a finger's length seemed to rise out of the Bonnet, but was indeed sowed to it. Such a Bonnet as this the Cheik appointed all the Slaves to wear that Tamerlane had given him, and this is that which at this day distinguishes their Successors from the other Persians. And it is the custom, where Khans or Governors of Provinces reside, that all the Sophies both in the City and the neighbouring parts, meet in the Piazza every Friday in the afternoon, where they pray to God for the health of the King and the Can, and for the prosperity of the Kingdom; after which the Can sends them Victuals to eat, not without some other effects of his Liberality. The Sheiks Sons considering of what a number of Slaves they were Masters, and that the greatest part of the people, prepossessed in favour of their Father, out of the opinion they had of his Sanctity, took their part; the more powerfully to engage them, showed themselves liberal to all, and when they found themselves strong enough, revolted against Alamout King of Persia, their lawful Sovereign. After many Skirmishes, at length they gave him Battle near to Tauris, wherein Azimout was defeated, and slain by the hand of Ishmael Sophi, the Sheiks third Son, who is properly to be accounted the first King of that Race: I mean of the Race of them that did not embrace the Alcoran, but according to the Interpretation of Haly, Mahomet's Son-in-Law. To Ishmael Sophi succeeded Sha-Tammas his Son, and to Sha-Tammas Sha-Ismael the second, who reigned but a short while; for his cruelties constrained the Nobility of the Country to set up in his room Mahomet-Coda bendé his Brother; though little skilled in the affairs of Government or War. Many thought he was blind, but he was only dim-sighted, through the application of a hot Iron to his eyes, by the Command of his unnatural Brother in the beginning of his reign. He was the Father of Shakstone Abbas, that succeeded him, who settled the affairs of Persia in a very good condition. Shakstone Abbas the first, by his Valour and good Conduct gained the name of Great. When he came to his Throne, upon the North and West side he found nothing in his power but the City of Casbin; but afterwards, as he was a personage of great wit as well as courage, partly by policy, and partly by force, he recovered several Provinces to the West, and conquered the Kingdoms of Lar, Ormus, and Candahar. Of many Sons that Sha-Abbas had, not one survived but only Sophi-Mirza, a Prince of great wit, and dextrous at his Arms. All the people loved him, which made his Father jealous of him, that he waited for his death to ascend the Throne. And that which augmented his jealousy was, for that one day being a hunting, Sophi-Mirza drew the first arrow at a Boar; it being a capital crime in Persia to shoot before the King. However Shakstone Abbas for the time concealed his displeasure, unwilling to fly out in fury against the Prince, in regard he had no more Sons. But Sophi-Mirza having had a Son by a Slave, which pleased him, Shakstone Abbas' joy increasing as the Child grew, his jealousy also daily increased against the Father of the young Prince; so that being no longer able to dissemble his fear, he caused his eyes to be put out. Nay his jealousy went a great way farther; for he now feared the blind Prince, and having therefore resolved his death, he commanded a Lord of the Court to bring him his head. The Lord in an astonishment refused to obey the King, and besought him rather to take away his life, than to constrain him to imbrue his hands in the blood of his Prince. The King offended at him for his refusal banished him his Court; and the next day gave the same command to another Lord, who without any scruple put it in execution, and brought him the head of his Son in a Basin of Gold. That object of pity brought him to himself; so that not being able to look upon so sad a spectacle without tears in his eyes, upbraiding the villainy of the Lord, he expelled him from his sight, forbade him his presence for ever, and sequestered all his estate, only allowing him a Mamoudi, or nine French Sous a day. The other Lord, who had so generously refused to aid him in so bloody an act, the King recalled from Exile, and bestowed upon him one of the best Governments of the Empire. Ever since that time all the Male Children of the Blood Royal are shut up in the women's Haram, where they are bred up in ignorance, having only two or three Eunuches to teach them to write and read, and to keep them company in their recreations, whether it be in shooting with a Bow, or riding about the Gardens upon an Ass; for they never allow'em a Horse: besides that all that time they are never permitted to see the people. In this manner it was that Shakstone Abbas bred up his little Grandson, many days causing him to take Opium to render him more stupid. So that when he came to the Throne, after his Grandfather's death, the Physiicians thought it convenient that he should drink Wine, to restore his natural heat, and renew his vigour. Shakstone Abbas reigned forty years, and died at the end of the year 1628. Before he died, he gave command, that he should be buried in some place unknown to all the world; and that they should set his Grandchild upon his Throne, and give him the name of Sha-Sefi. So soon as Shakstone Abbas' eyes were closed, the General of the Horse, and the chief Captain of the Harquebuses, with whom the Commands were left, road in all haste to Ispahan, and coming to the Palace, desired to speak with the Mother of the Child. The Mother was in a sad affright, believing that they came to put the young Prince to death. But when they had dissipated her fears, and that she understood that they came to set him upon the Throne by the command of his Grandfather, she embraced the young Prince, and returned him into the hands of the Eunuches. When he was come out of the Haram, the two Lords, attended by several others, saluted him King, and acknowledged him for their Sovereign. At the same time they took off his Clothes and tore them, which in Persia is a mark of mourning; and according to custom, put him on another plain Garment, which he wore till midnight. Then they disrobed him again, and put him on his Royal Robes, and set him upon the Throne, where all the Lords came and did him homage, and the next day he was acknowledged by all the Acclamations of the people. For when the Royal Habit is put upon the new King, the Drums, Trumpets, Timbrels, Hautboys, and other Instruments, make a din in a peculiar place of the Meydan appointed for that purpose. Which is the Signal to give notice to the people to meet the next morning, to acknowledge the new King. Sha-Sefi for many years was a Novice in the art of Government. But time opening his eyes, the first remarkable thing which he did, being at Casbin, was to cut off the head of Ali-Kouli-Kan, that great Captain who had conquered the Kingdoms of Lar and Ormus for Shakstone Abbas; and the heads of three of his Sons. After that, returning to Ispahan, he cut off the heads of seven of the principal Lords of his Court; and by little and little took the Government into his own hands. Of those Lords whom Jani-Kan was the chief. For 'tis thought that Shakstone Abbas had left a private order with Mirza Také, and the Dowager Sultaness, to rid themselves of those Lords so soon as Sha-Sefi should be settled in his Throne, and that they had placed Governors in all places where in the King might confide. These Lords having smoked the private order of Sha-Abbas, and believing that the time of execution drew near, prevented the Athemadoulet Mirza Také; for meeting one morning before the Palace-door, they killed the Porter, and entering his Bedchamber, stabbed him before he could rise. After this execution, they went to the King, whom Jani-Kan boldly told, that they had slain Mirza Také. The King at that time dissembling his anger at so bold an enterprise, and an attempt upon the Royal Authority, answered him, that he had done very well, and that he had prevented those orders which he intended to have given him. The Sultaness his Mother then governed the Kingdom, together with the Athemadoulet, from whom she received four hundred Ducats in Gold every day for her little pleasures; and held a private Council with him in her Haram, where he had free admission, as being cut close. In this Council it was, that these two persons overthrew in the night whatever the Lords concluded in the day; changed the King's mind, and overruled his thoughts as they pleased themselves, by virtue of that power which they had over him. Eight or nine days after, as these Lords were sitting in Council with the King, an Eunuch entered, which was the signal for the King to get out of the way; and as soon as the King was gone, the Chamber was filled with Eunuches, that rushing in immediately fell upon Jani-Kan and his Accomplices, and cut off their heads. Their heads and bodies were immediately exposed to the view of the people in the Meydan; and for that it is not the custom in Persia to take any cognizance of what the King does, the most part of the people, spurning the heads with their feet, cried one to another, See the heads of those Dogs that have disobeyed the will of the King. I told ye, that Mirza Také was clean cut; which occasions a particular story: He was Governor of Guilan in the Reign of Shakstone Abbas, and having abused one of his Pages, the young Ladd stole secretly to Ispahan, and made his complaint to the King; who having heard it, immediately sent him to be Governor of Guilan, in the place of Mirza Také, and ordered him to send him his head by one of the Officers, which he dispatched along with him. The King also, in regard the Page was very young, appointed him a person able to advise him in his affairs. In the mean while Mirza Také missing his Page, and making no question but he was gone to make his complaint to the King, which would of necessity prove his ruin, if not prevented; he resolved to divert the storm by punishing himself, and caused that part to be cut clean off that committed the crime. At the same time, and in that bad condition wherein he then was, he caused himself to be put into a Litter, and taking his Chirurgeon along with him, he gets to Ispahan by another way which was not usually travelled, for fear of meeting the Page, and causing himself to be carried into the Palace in that pitiful and languishing estate, desired to speak with the King, who was surprised at his arrival. But the Can having presented him in a Plate of Gold with the undoubted marks of his repentance, besought his Majesty's pardon. Whereupon the King considering the rigour and extraordinary punishment which he had inflicted upon himself, sent him back to his Government, and recalled the Page, whom he otherways gratified. And this was the man whom Shakstone Abbess upon his Deathbed ordered that Sha-Sefi should make Athemadoulet, as being the fittest for the employment of any person in his Kingdom. Sha-Sefi not content to have rid himself of the Lords that had presumed to invade his Authority, was resolved to have the head of Ali-merdan-Kan, Governor of Candahar; of whom he was jealous, by reason of his vast riches, his Plate being all Gold, and his House as magnificently furnished as the Kings. But the King could not bring about his design; for the Can being pressed to come to Court, and believing it was only to take away his head, to free himself from the danger, delivered Candahar to the Great Mogul, by whom he was kindly entertained, and highly caressed. Neither was Ali-merdan-kan wealth of his own getting, but left him by inheritance, as being descended from the ancient Kings of Candahar, who were originally Tartars. Now whatever favours or advancement the Great Mogul bestowed upon Ali-merdan-Kan, the same did the Persian King bestow upon his two Sons; whereas all the world believed, that after such a piece of Treason committed by their Father, the King would have ripped up their bellies. This piece of policy of Sha-Sefi was very advantageous to Sha-Abbas the second, when he besieged Candahar with fifty thousand men. For the greatest part of the Moguls Army being composed of Persians, they remembering how kindly Sha-Sefi had used the two Sons of Ali-merdan-Kan, made little resistance against the King of Persia, who entered Candahar in a small time. The Great Mogul troubled at the loss, asked Ali-merdan-Kan, by what means he might retake Candahar; who presently made answer, that it would be very easy, if he could find such another Traitor as he had been. But to return to Sha-Sefi; his Reign was very violent, of which I will give you this Example: One day the King returning from the Kelonters House in Zulpha, having drank to excess, commanded that the Sultaness should come to him; who understanding that he was in drink, made no great haste, so that the King in the mean time fell asleep. But waking again soon after, and not seeing the Queen, he called for her a second time; of which when she had notice, she came immediately. When she came into the Chamber, she perceived the King asleep, and in expectation of his waking, hide herself in a Nich behind the Hang; where generally the Mattresses and Coverlets are laid by. The King waking, and not yet perceiving the Sultaness, in a great chafe demanded why she was not yet come. The Queen-Mother, who was a Georgian Slave, and mortally hated the young Sultaness, who was the Daughter of the King of Georgia, and therefore disdained by her, took an occasion to put her out of the King's favour; and having first spoken ill of her, made a sign to the King to let him understand that the young Queen was hid in such a Nich. Upon that the King rising in a great fury, stabbed the poor Princess with his Dagger four or five times in the belly, and hardly knowing what he had done, went to bed again. The next day, forgetful of the fact, he called for the Queen; but when they told him what had happened, he began to be deeply sensible of his error, and sorrowed excessively; and at the same time sent an express order through his Territories, that no man should drink Wine, and that the Governors should break all the Wine-Vessels wherever they found any, and spill the Wine. But this order did not last above a year. During the Reign of Sha-Sefi, the Can of Erivan sent him a Colt, which I saw, which was begot by a Mule. Not long after the King died of a Surfeit, with excess of drinking, after he had reigned fourteen years. Shakstone Abbas the second was set upon the Throne at Casbin, with the usual Ceremonies, at the end of the year 1642, and made his entry into Ispahan in the beginning of the year following. Upon the day of the Solemnity all the Citizens were ordered to be in Arms, and to march out of the City, where they were filled off upon each side of the Road. In the same manner were all the standing Infantry and Cavalry ranged for five Leagues together. All the Road for two Leagues together without the City was covered with Tissues of Gold and Silver, with Carpets of Silk, and other rich Stuffs; all which costs the King nothing. For the Sha-Bander, who is like our Mayor, taketh care to tax every one what he is to furnish toward that Solemnity. The English and Hollanders went also forth to meet the King; among whom I was one. When we came near the King, Jani-Kan, General of the Cavalry, gave the King notice who we were. Whereupon we all alighted, and the King holding his Leg stretched out of his Stirrup, we all kissed his Boot. When he came where the way began to be spread with rich Carpets, he found the Grand Mufti and the Grand Cadi, attended by a great number of Moullahs', who made a Prayer after their manner. Prayers being ended, the King road on, the Athemadoulet being on the left hand, which is the most honourable, and the General of the Cavalry on the right, yet not even with him, but so as that their Horses heads reached to the Crupper of his. There was no person but the King that road over the Tissue, that Honour belonging to him alone; nor is the way spread above the breadth of the Stuff; and as soon as the King is passed over it, the people fall to scrambling, and carry away every one what they can get for themselves. About a quarter of a League from Ispahan is a Garden, with a Great Room over the Gate, where the King made a halt, thinking to have made his Entry into the City. But an ginger came to him, and told him, that the hour was past, and that he must tarry three days before the hour would prove propitious again. So that he was constrained to betake himself to the Garden of Hezardgerib till the time came; whither the Nobility also were all forced to come betimes in the morning, and to stay till the evening. The day that the King made his Entry, the way from the Garden to the City was also spread with Carpets. For three days together the Fireworks played in the Meydan; and round the Piazza from top to bottom were lights hung out; and in the principal Inns, the richest Merchants had adorned the Doors and Windows of their Chambers, according to the Mode of the Country; and I believe it cost the Chief of the Holland Company, above nine hundred Tomans. In the year 1643, came the Prince of the Usbecks' in person to desire aid of Shakstone Abbas against his Children, who had caused his own Subjects to rebel and make war against him. His eldest Son first took Arms, and getting the advantage of a Battle, the other Brother treacherously took part with him; which nothing dismayed the Father, to whom the chief of the Nobility still adhered. Toward the end of the year 1642, the Prince lost another Battle and his left eye, which was shot thorough with an Arrow; which constrained him, so soon as he was cured of his wound, to come and crave succour from the King of Persia; which he easily obtained. Shakstone Abbas designing to receive him honourably sent above ten thousand Horse as far as Cashan, which is four days journey from Ispahan, and five or six thousand Foot two days journey from thence to meet him. Every day he was attended by different Officers. Every day they set him up a new Tent, and spread new Carpets; and every day changed the twelve Horses that were led before him, whose furniture was all over covered with Jewels. For a League and a half from the City the way was spread with all sorts of Silk Stuffs to the very Palace; and the King of Persia went himself to meet him, as far as where the Stuffs were begun to be laid. Though Shakstone Abbas was very young, yet he was resolved to show, that he looked upon himself as a potent King in the peaceable possession of his own Dominions, and that he went to meet a dethroned Prince, that came to desire his Aid. For so soon as he perceived the King of the Tartars, he made a show of spurring on his Horse; and being come up to his Horse's head, he put his foot out of the Stirrup, as if he intended to have alighted, but did not. The Tartarian Prince, as old as he was, presently leapt to the ground from his Saddle to salute the Persian King, who returned him some slight Compliments about his having alighted; at which time the Athemadoulet and other Lords remounting him, the two Kings road together upon the Silks, the King of Persia giving the left hand to the Tartar. The King of Persia very generously lent him a considerable assistance of 15000 Horse, and 8000 Foot, and sixty thousand Tomans in Money. The Tartar in Exchange gave him one of his Provinces bordering upon Persia, which yielded him a very good Revenue, in regard the Inhabitants were all Shepherds, or Turcomans, that breed an infinite number of cattle, wherein the wealth of that Province consists. While he reigned, he had a present made him from the Governor of Schiras, of a wild Ass, whose Skin was as red as Scarlet, having a Horn growing out of his forehead about a foot long. Shakstone Abbas reigned about twenty-four years, and died at Tehzon, of an inflammation in his throat, which came by excessive drinking. His body by his own order was buried at Kour. So soon as he was dead, the Lords that were about him, sent advice of his death to the Prince that now reigns, by the Topigi-Basha, who is General of the Musqueteers, and Mirza Bayad the Chief of the Astrologers. So soon as they came to the door of the Haram, they desired to speak with the Mother and the Son; who believed them come upon some dismal design. But they presently confirmed them to the contrary. For as soon as the Prince came forth of the Haram, they fell at his feet, and saluted him King, declaring the death of his Father. Whereupon the Prince immediately tore his Garment according to the custom. And indeed they have another custom, that as soon as the new Prince comes after much entreaty out of the Haram, he throws himself to the ground, at the door of the Haram, and then rising and sitting upon his heels, one of the Lords that are sent, girds the Scimitar about his waste, saying these words, May it please your Majesty to remember your Slave, that had the Honour to grid you with this Scimitar. Which done, he goes and sets the Trumpets a sounding, and the Drums beating, whereupon all the people in the morning come running to the Gate of the Palace, crying out, Patsha Salamalek, I salute thee Emperor. Which is all the Ceremony used when any King of Persia ascends the Throne. For I never saw any Crown set upon the head either of Shakstone Abbas or Shakstone Sefi. Only in Persia they gird on the Scimitar, as in Turkey they put on the Bonnet of the Sophis, which is very richly set with Jewels, but has not the least resemblance of a Crown. The same Ceremony of girding on the Scimitar, is used to the Mogul, the Kings of Visapour and Golconda; and they also put the Bonnet upon their heads, which is set with the richest Jewels in the possession of those great Monarches. Sha-Sefi the second, some time after his coming to the Throne, fell dangerously sick, not having ever enjoyed a perfect health before. Now it is the custom in those Countries, that upon such an occasion all the Lords of the Court, and Governors of Provinces, give a sum of money, according to their willingness and liberality. This sum is usually in Gold, which they put into a Basin very richly set with precious Stones, and bear it three times over the King's head, pronouncing these words, Patsha Bashena Olson, This money is sacrificed for the health of the King's head. If the King recover all that money is given to the poor, to which the King and his Haram add very liberally. But if the King dies, the money is put into the Treasury, and the poor have nothing. The twentieth of August 1667, was the critical day of his distemper, and every one thought he would have died. Upon which all the Grandees of the Court seeing him in that condition, went to the Mosque called Babaron, which is without the City, to pray for his health, and altogether gave near a thousand Tomans to the poor. The next day they commanded the Christian Armenians to pray for the recovery of the King. Whereupon as well the ecclesiastics as the Laity went to their prayers upon the side of the River which is between Ispahan and Zulpha. They also sent their Kelonter, with fifty Tomans in Gold, to bear over the King's head; though the Armenians pronounce not the same words as the Persians, saying only, Berai te Sadduk, destined for Alms. Thus the danger being over in a few days, they made it their business to recover him to a perfect habit of health; but in regard the King continued in a languishing condition, and for that the Physicians could not discover the cause of the distemper, the King began to believe that it proceeded from the ignorance of the Physicians; for which reason some of them had received none of the best entertainment already. At length it came into the thoughts of some others of the Physicians, who were afraid for themselves, that in regard Persia was thus doubly afflicted, with Famine and the Sickness of the King, both at one time, it must of necessity be the Astrologers fault, that missed the favourable hour when the King should have ascended the Throne. Thus being troubled at their disgrace, pretending to have no less skill in future knowledge than the Astrologers, who had not chosen a true time for the King to ascend the Throne, they concluded that for the perfect recovery of his health, and the restoring of plenty to the Nation, it was necessary to renew the Ceremony at a lucky hour, and to change his name. This proposition pleased the King and his Council. The Physicians and Astrologers joining together, observed the first unlucky day, which would certainly be followed by another that would prove fortunate. Now there being among the Gaures, some that pretend themselves descended from the Rustans, who were ancient Kings of Persia and Parthia, that very morning one of those Gaures setting himself upon the Throne, with his back against a wooden Figure which represented him to the life, all the Grandees of the Court came and did him homage as their King, as he had ordered them to do. This action lasted till the favourable hour was come, which happened a little before Sunset. Then it was that an Officer of the Court came behind and cut off the head of the wooden Figure, while the Gaure immediately took his heels and fled. Presently upon that the King appeared in the Hall, upon whose head when they had put the Bonnet of Sophi, and re-girt him with the Scimitar, he ascended the Throne, and took the name of Soliman. He was forced to act this Comedy to satisfy the Law, which contrived that he should change his Name, and take a new possession of his Throne, by ejecting a Usurper that had wrongfully claimed it. For which reason the Gaure was set up as Pretender, as laying claim to the ancient Lineage of the Persian Kings, and being of a different Religion. From that time the King recovering, and the Famine decreasing, the Physicians were in great repute, and the Astrologers were cast out of favour, except two or three of the most skilful. Sha-Soliman before his coming to the Crown, had conversed with none but Women and black Eunuches; from whom he could not learn the art of Ruling. At present he only divertizes himself with his Wives in going a hunting, very rarely troubling himself with business, but relying wholly upon his Ministers of State. He will not be seen for ten or twelve days together; all which time there are no Petitions to be preferred, nor Complaints to be made. CHAP. II. Of certain particular Actions which denote the Virtues and Vices of the Kings of Persia, from Shakstone Abbas the first to Sha-Soliman the present King. And first of Sha-Abbas the Great. SHa-Abbas, who was a passionate Lover of Honour, sought all ways imaginable to furnish his Empire with the supports of wealth and good Government. He would not suffer any Indian or Banian to live as a Trader in his Dominions; they having crept in since under the Reigns of Sha-Sefi the first, and Sha-Abbas the second, who came very young to the Throne. Neither had Sha-Abbas any reason to permit them to trade in his Kingdom; for they are worse Usurers than the Jews, and seldom it happens, but that they have all the Money in the Nation, which they take up at nine or ten in the hundred, and let out again upon pawns at two and a half per Cent. a month. From such devouring Pests and Vipers as these, Sha-Abbas thought it but reasonable to preserve his people; so that before these Vermin crept into Persia, the Money was all in the hands of the Armenians of Zulpha. And indeed those Banians have been the ruin of many poor people, of which I will only bring one example among many. I was at Ispahan in the year 1662., when one of those Banians lent six or seven Tomans per Cent. a month to a poor Persian, who had uttered several pieces of Linen upon the place. Those Banians will have their interest paid every month; but the Persian had slipped three or four, having no Money to pay, in regard his Debtor could not pay him. Thereupon the Banian dunned him perpetually, and threatened to have him drubbed till he paid it, according to the Persian custom. The Mother of the Persian troubled to see her Son haunted in that manner, one morning as he was going to the Meydan, bid him, if he met the Banian, that he should be sure to bring him home, and she would pay him his interest, and some of the principal, with some Money that she had saved of her own. Toward evening the Banian met his Debtor, whom he readily followed home upon promise of payment. The Mother desired him to set upon the Coursi, which is the place where they make their fires, it being cold snowy weather, and set fruits before him to eat. While he thus eat and warmed himself, night came on apace, and the woman putting him in hopes of payment, spun out the time so long, that the Banian not being unaccustomed to cold weather and late hours, was easily persuaded to stay all night at the Persians House. When 'twas time to go to bed, the Banian threw himself upon one Quilt, and the Persian upon another. About two hours after midnight, the Mother comes softly into the Chamber, with a sharp Razor in her hand, intending to have cut off the Banians head; but unfortunately mistaking, killed her own Son instead of the Banian. The Banian having had such an escape, stole cunningly out of the House, and declaring the murder to the Divan-bequé, or the Chief Justice, He caused the woman to be apprehended, and brought before him; who confessing the fact, he commanded her to be tied to the tail of a young Mule, and to be dragged about the City till the Mule had kicked her to death. In the year 1667, eight or ten days before I departed from Ispahan, there was a Banian found buried in a Street near the Capuchins house; they had cut off his arms and legs, and so put him into the hole; but buried him so shallow that the Dogs scraped away the Earth, and discovered him; but who committed the fact, was not then known. Shakstone Abbas was not only willing that all the trade should be in the hands of his Subjects, to make profit thereby, and to draw the Money into his Kingdom, but he would not suffer it to be transported when it was brought in. He saw that the Pilgrimages of his Subjects to Mecca, their Expenses and Presents carried out abundance of his Ducats of Gold; therefore more politic than religious, he strove to hinder those Pilgrimages as much as in him lay; and going himself in person to Meshed in Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Iman-rez already spoken of, over which one of the Legs of Mahomet's Camel hangs as a a great Relict; and upon his return relating and giving out strange Miracles of Iman-rez, on purpose to divert his Subjects from going to Mecca. Among the rest of the cunning knacks that Sha-Abbas made use of, to know how squares went in his Kingdom, without trusting too much to his Ministers, he often disguised himself, and went about the City like an ordinary inhabitant, under pretence of buying and selling, making it his business to discover whether Merchants used false weights or measures or no. To this intent one evening going out of his Palacein the habit of a Countryman, he went to a Bakers to buy a Man of Bread, and thence to a Cook to buy a Man of Roast-meat, (a Man is six Pound, sixteen Ounces to the Pound). The King having bought his Bargains returned to Court, where he caused the Athemadoulet to weigh both the Bread and the Meat exactly. He found the Bread to want fifty-seven Drams, and the Meat forty-three. The King seeing that, fell into a great chase against three or four of them that were about him, whose business it was to look after those things; but especially against the Governor of the City, whose Belly he had caused to have been ripped up, but for the intercession of certain Lords. Besides the reproaches that he threw upon them for being so negligent in their Employments; and for their little affection to the public good, he laid before them the injustice of false weights; and how sadly the cheat fell upon poor men, who having great Families, and thinking to give them eight hundred Drams of Bread, by that fraud deprived them of a hundred and forty three. Then turning to the Lords that were present, he demanded of them, what sort of justice ought to be done those people? When none of them daring to open their mouths, while he was in that passion, he commanded a great Oven to be made in the Piazza, together with a Spit long enough to roast a man; and that the Oven should be heated all night, and that they should make another fire to be kindled hard by the Oven. The next morning the King caused the Baker and the Cook to be apprehended, and to be led quite through the City, with two men going before them, who cried to the people, We are going to put the Baker into a red hot Oven made in the Piazza, where he is to be baked alive, for having uttered Bread by false weights; and the Cook is to be roasted alive, for having sold meat by false weights. Thus those two men served for an example not only to Ispahan, but to all the Kingdom, where every one dreaded the severe justice of Sha-Abbas. CHAP. III. Of what fell out most memorable in the Reign of Sha-Sefi the first; and particularly of the death of Iman-Kouli-Kan, and his three Sons. I Man-Kouli-Kan was the last Can of Schiras, whose Government extended over the Province of Lar, to the Golf of Persia, under the Reign of Sha-Abbas; these Khan's being the most potent in all Persia. Iman-Kouli-Kan was he who in the Reign of Sha-Abbas conquered the greatest part of the Kingdom of Lar, and the Kingdom of Ormus, with all the Coast of the Persian Golf, from Cape Jasques to Balsara. This Iman-Kouli-Kan was prodigiously rich, beloved and respected by all the world; besides he was wonderfully magnificent, his expenses almost equalling the Kings; which occasioned Sha-Abbas, who discoursed with him one day particularly upon that Subject, to tell him, that he desired him to spend every day one Mamoudy less than he, that there might be some difference between the expenses of a King and a Can. The noble qualities of this Iman-Kouli-Kan had gained the affections of the people; for he was magnificent and liberal; highly recompensed brave Soldiers and Students; he loved Strangers, and had a particular care to cherish Arts and Sciences. To which purpose he built a fair College at Schiras, for the instruction of Youth; and several Inns, as well in the City as upon the Road, for the benefit of Travellers. He caused Mountains to be cut through to shorten the way; and joined others by Bridges, of such an adventurous Structure, that it is hard to conjecture how such prodigious Arches could be made over such vast Precipices and Torrents. Now in regard Iman-Kouli-Kan was stricken in years, he seldom went to Court, choosing rather to continue in his Government, where he was beloved and respected by all men. But the King being young, and the Government of the Kingdom in the hands of the Queen-Mother and the Athemadoulet, who were extremely jealous of the Can, those two persons linked together in interest for the maintenance of the King's Authority and their own, fretted to see the Khan's Court almost as splendid as the Kings; and that nothing of the Revenue of Schiras, Lar, Ormus, or any part of the Persian Golf came to the King's Coffers, as being solely at the disposal of the Can; but that on the contrary, the King was obliged to send him Money to pay the Army. But that which troubled the Queen-Mother most of all, was the pretention of the Khan's eldest Son to the Crown, whowas also a person of a daring and ambitious courage. For the Kings of Persia esteem it a great Honour to bestow upon any Can or great Lord, one of their Wives out of their Royal Haram; and Sha-Abbas had given to Iman-Kouli-Kan one of his own proper Wives, whom he loved extremely. 'Tis thought that when she left the Haram she was three months gone with Child by Sha-Abbas, for somewhat above six months after she was bedded by the Can, she lay-in of a Son, of which the King was the reputed Father, and who being born before Sha-Sefi, pretended a right before him to the Throne. By virtue of this claim, contrary to the will of Sha-Abbas in favour of Sha-Sefi, this ambitious Lord, who only passed for the Khan's eldest Son, vehemently solicited his Father to seize upon Sha-Sefi, and to make himself King, or at least to open a way for him to the Throne. Now it happened, that one day being a hunting with the young King near Schiras, the impatient young Lord coming to his Father; Sir, said he, see now the opportunity that offers you the Throne; for I will go presently and bring you Sha-Sefi's head. But the Can holding his Son by the Arm, told him, that he would never consent to the death of his King; protesting to him, rather to die a thousand deaths; adding withal, that it was the King's will to appoint Sha-Sefi to succeed him, as being the Son of his Son, and consequently his lawful Heir; that the young Prince was recommended to his care, and in regard he had promised and sworn, he was so far from falsifying his trust, that he would maintain his possession to the last gasp. This generous resolution of the Can broke the young Lords design upon the King's person. However the Sultaness being not ignorant of the train that was laid for the young King, and against the repose of the Kingdom, thought it her wisest way to prevent the blow, and to rid herself of such persons as had conspired the death of the King. The Khan's two other Sons took part with him they called their elder Brother. And as for the Can himself, though he were upright in his Loyalty, yet his power, his wealth, his reputation among the Soldiery, and the affection that the people bore him, concurred together not only to render him suspected, but guilty. The Sultaness and the Athemadoulet took counsel together, which way to divert the storm that threatened the King's head, to whom they represented, that he was not safe in his own person so long as Iman-Kouli-Kan and his three eldest Sons lived. The King easily believed them, and resolved to be rid both of Father and Sons together; but the difficulty was to get 'em to Court, wherein opportunity itself assisted them. For at that time Amurath the Great Turk at the head of a vast Army, was already advanced within the Confines of Persia, had taken Erivan, and had ruined Tauris. Upon the first news of this march the King sends for all the Khans and Governors to attend his person, with all the Forces under their command. Among the rest, the Can of Schiras received the same orders; who thereupon assembled all his Troops, both Horse and Foot, who were not only the most numerous, but the best disciplined and stoutest Soldiers of all Persia. As he was upon his march to Casbin with his three Sons, the eldest having well considered of affairs; Sir, said he, We are making haste to the King, to the end our heads may the sooner fall at our feet. Perhaps my Son, replied the Can, thou mayst speak the truth; but to this day I never was a Rebel against the King, I have done whatever he commanded, and whatever may happen I will obey him till death. The Can arriving at Casbin, was by the King welcomed with great demonstrations of joy. Some days after, he took a general Muster, and then made a great Feast which lasted three days, to which all the great Lords and Khans that were at Casbin were called. The three Sons of Iman-Kouli-Kan were of the number; but the Father excused himself, as well by reason of his age, as also representing to his Majesty, that it better befitted him to employ his time in taking care of his affairs, and in praying for his Majesty; however if it were his Majesty's express command, he would not fail to obey; to which the King returned for answer, that the Can of Schiras was at his liberty to do as he thought fit. The third day of the Feast the King risen from his Seat, and going out of the Hall, without speaking a word to any person, went into a Room hard by. Half an hour after, three sturdy resolute Fellows with some other Ragamuffin attendants, entering the Hall with their Scimeters drawn, seized upon the Khan's three Sons, and cut off their heads. They were put into a Gold Bason, and presented to the King; who commanded the Fellows to carry them to their Father, and as soon as he had seen them, to take off his head to make the fourth. The Assassinates found him at his prayers; but being interrupted to see the heads of his three Sons, he desired leave only to conclude, which having done, with a countenance undisturbed, and without any other words or expressions in his mouth than what is usually said among the Persians, Let the Kings will be done, he submitted to a death which he might have easily avoided. The four heads were brought back to the King, to be sent into the Haram to his Mother. So soon as he had taken off the heads of the Father and the three Sons, the King dispatched away certain Chappars or Courriers, with order to the Lieutenant of the Can, to put to death all the rest of the Children. The command was obeyed, and they were all put to death, but only two that were at Nurse, whom their Nurses so well concealed, that never any tidings could be heard either of the Nurses or of the Children. After the death of Iman-Kouli-Kan, the Province of Schiras, with its dependences, has been governed by a Vizir, who agrees with the King what Rent to pay him yearly. In the years 1665 and 1666, the Vizir gave him fifty thousand Tomans a year. But in the year 1667, the King abated him eight thousand Tomans, in regard he had taken from him a small part of his Government to pleasure a Favourite. Besides what the Governor of Schiras pays to the King in ready Money, he is obliged every year to send him a present of all the rarities that grow on are bred in the Province. These Presents consist in Horses, of which there is the best breed of any Province of Persia. In Granates, Oranges, and Lemons, sweet Oils and Waters of several sorts, especially Oil of Roses, with which the women rub their bodies and heads; and the water of a certain Flower that grows upon a tree not much unlike our Willows, which water is called Arak-Bilmitshe, which is a great refreshment to those that use it; besides other Oils and Essences which the Governor is obliged to present. Yet were he only obliged to present the King, the expense might be born well enough; but for fear of being displaced by any other Favourite, he is constrained to make Friends of all the other great Lords and Favourites at Court; which there is no way to do, but by continual presents. Whereas the ancient Khans, who were a kind of petty Sovereigns in their Governments, were only wont to send a few Baskets of new Fruits in their season for the service of the King's Table. To defray this expense, the Governors are forced to tyrannize over the people; who when they come, as many times they do, two or three Villages together, to complain to the King, are forced after long waiting, to return with empty Purses home again, by reason that they who should give them admission, are the only persons that debar them from it; and patiently to submit to the Extortions of the Vizir; which is a piece of policy practised likewise by all the other Khan's and Governors of the Persian Provinces. As for Sha-Sefi himself, he was very severe, and one whose punishments often amounted to acts of cruelty. One day being a hunting, a poor Countryman appeared from behind a Rock, with a paper in his hand, being deputed by the Village to make some complaint to the King. But while the poor man cried for justice, the King without making any answer, shot two arrows into his body and slew him. That which moved Sha-Sefi to this act of cruelty, was because he had some of his Wives with him in company. For then there is no mercy to those poor people that happen to be in the way where the King chances to pass by; no not for them that are in the Country round about, where the Eunuches have order to kill all men they meet. When the King gives notice of his intention to carry his Wives into the Country, this is called Courouk; and there is nothing more troublesome nor more inconvenient in the world to the poor people that live in the Villages through which these women are to pass; for upon notice given them, they must leave their Houses for a League or two of either side. When there is a Courouk at Ispahan, let the weather be never so bad, the people must leave their Houses, and if they have no Friends in some distant quarter to retire to, they have no way but to repair to the Mountains. Such is the excess of the jealousy of the Kings of Persia; which indeed derives itself to all his Subjects, who will not permit their women to be seen by any but their own Husbands. The Persians both men and women are so addicted to take Tobacco, that to take their Tobacco from them, is to take away their lives. So that if the King should prohibit Tobacco for any time, he would lose a good part of his revenue. However Sha-Sefi in a humour having once forbidden Tobacco to be taken in any part of his Dominion, his Spies (that are in every City) found in the Indian Inn two rich Merchants of that Nation smoking their noses. Immediately they were seized, bound, and carried to the King, who commanded forthwith that Justice should be done upon them in the Meidan, which was that they should pour melted lead down their throats till they were dead. The people thought the King had only intended to have scared them, and would have reprieved them upon the place. Insomuch that four Banians went to the Athemadoulet, and offered to pay two thousand Tomans into the King's Treasury, so that he would be pleased to spare the two Merchant's lives. The chief Minister made the proposal, but the King falling into a passion, and ask the Atbemadoulet, whether those Indian Dogs thought that a King of Persia would sell justice, sent a second order for the execution of the Merchants without delay. The same Sha-Sefi having given command that the Eyes of a young Lord of the Court should be put out, one of the principal Officers of the House being present, and seeing the Executioner prick the eyes of the unfortunate young man with the point of a small knife, shut his own eyes and turned away his head, as abhorring such a spectacle. The King perceiving it, and vexed to see those signs of pity, and a dislike of an act that he approved; What, said he in a fury, art thou afraid to punish the wicked? And at the same time commanded his eyes to be pulled out of his head. It is a custom, that if any man points at the King as he passes along in the Street, or upon the Road, he must lose his hand. One day Sha-Sefi being in the Country, two Merchants of Constantinople were upon the Road, where the King and his Train were to pass. They stopped to see the King, and when he came near, one of the Merchants prayed his Friend that often had seen him, to show him which was he. The other knowing that only the King wears the Heron tops in his Bonnet, innocently lifted up his hand to distinguish him, by pointing, from the rest of the Lords that followed him. For which act two Horsement came presently to him, and cut off his hand with a Scimitar. CHAP. IU. The tragical and memorable Story of Ralph Sadler, Native of Zurich, in the Reigu of Sha-Sefi, who had retained him in his Service. RAlph Sadler, born in Zurich, was a Watchmaker by Profession, who put himself into the service of the Emperors Resident at the Ottoman Court, with whom he went to Constantinople. This man I desired to take along with me into Persia; and coming to Ispahan, he set himself to work, and made a small Watch about the bigness of half a Crown; which being a neat piece of work, the English would needs buy, to present it to Iman-Couli-Kan paying the price demanded, which was two hundred Crowns. Iman-Couli-Kan presented it to the King; who was mightily pleased with it, in regard it was the least striking Watch that ever had been seen by the King, who therefore carried it hanging about his Neck under his Clothes, in a Gold Chain. One day the King happening to wind up his Watch, and turning the Key the wrong way, broke the Fusil, for which he was so much troubled, that he sent for the Watchmaker from Ispahan to Casbin; whither when Ralph came, he presently made the Watch as good as ever. The King thus satisfied in his work and in his person, ordered him a Pension of thirty Tomans, and Diet for him and a man, and provision for two Horses; commanding him withal to make some new pieces of work. Now a skilful workman in the service of the Persian King, has this advantage, that if he pleases the King, besides his Wages that are duly paid, the King out of his liberality bestows on him a present, which usually amounts to a third part or half his Wages; or else his Wages are raised, which is more advantageous than a present. Ralph was obliged every morning to wait upon the King at his rising, to wind up his Watch; and was so much in the King's favour, that every morning when he came out of the King's Chamber, he had a Glass of Wine presented him, as a mark of esteem. And indeed the King had such an affection for him, that to retain him in his service he often solicited him to turn Mahometan. The Ambassador of Holstein coming to Ispahan, and seeing Ralph so much in favour with the King, endeavoured to gain his Friendship. Thus Ralph often keeping company with the Ambassadors, and having one time tarried till late at night upon the debauch with them, returning home to his Lodging, where he kept a young Nestorian girl, in the Court of the House met a young Persian, Brother to one of the King's Porters. The Persian knowing himself guilty, and surprised to see Ralph so soon returned, skip't over the Wall into the Garden and fled. The next day Ralph (who knew who he was) told his Brother of it, and desired him to speak to the young Persian not to come any more to his House; for if he did, he must expect what followed. Some days after, the Ambassadors treated all the Franks; when Ralph beginning to be warm, called the young Persian to mind, and slipping home without taking his leave, opened the door softly, and found the young Persian again with his Mistress. Thereupon Ralph calling his Slaves to help him, bound his arms, and tied him to a Tree in the Court; and so leaving him there, went to bed. By and by one of Ralph's Servants, who knew the Persian, fell a jeering him; which so incensed the Persian, that he having his feet at liberty, and the fellow within his reach, gave him sach a kick upon the bottom of his belly, that he first swooned away, and then died. The other Slaves seeing him fall, wakened Ralph with their cries, who thereupon snatching up a Pistol that was charged with a brace of Bullets, shot the Persian into the head. The Persian being thus slain, Ralph went in the morning to wind up the King's Watch; and being asked by the King, as he was wont to do, what news in Ispahan, told him plainly what he had done, and the reason why. The King upon his report told him, he had done well according to the strictness of the Country. The Athemadoulet at that time was Mirza-Také, who hated Ralph. For the Armenian Merchants having presented the Athemadoulet with several Watches at a time, it happened that once he sent to Ralph above thirty Watches together to be mended. For which the Athemadoulet, to gratify him, and knowing that he kept four or five Servants, and seven or eight Horses, sent him fifteen or twenty Camels load of Straw and Barley for his Horses. But Ralph slighting such a present as that, Go (said he to the Athemadoulets Servant) tell thy Master, that I am neither a Horse nor an Ass, and therefore let him eat his Present himself. Which message so provoked the Athemadoulet, that he studied nothing but revenge. Thereupon the Athemadoulet, whose business it is to attend the King when he rises, and to report to him the news of the Town, told him, among the rest, what Ralph had done. The King replied, that Ralph had confessed it to him already: and that he had pardoned him, in regard he had reason to do as he did. But the Athemadoulet made answer, that Ralph had minced the matter; and represented the story to the King far otherwise than it was, making the worst of it he could upon Ralph's side; and the more to incite the King, he put him in mind of the fair occasion he had to force him to turn Mussulman, there being no way to expiate his crime, but by turning Mahometan, or suffering the Law. The King thus overruled, sent for Ralph, told him, he was now better informed of the crime he had committed, and that he must either turn Mahometan or die. Thereupon the King sent him to Prison. Eight days after, the King (who had a great love for him, and therefore troubled that he must be constrained to put him to death, unless he would turn Mahometan,) sent for him again, and offered him two thousand Tomans, after a powerful persuasion by words, but all signified nothing. Upon that he sent him back again to Prison. But yet remembering that he had once approved the fact, he sent for Ralph a second time, and offered him ten thousand Tomans, and a Wise out of his Haram, with all her Jewels; all which Ralph refused, with the same resolution as before. The King incensed at the fierceness of his resolution, delivered him to the Brother of the party slain, to execute the Law upon him. The Holstein Ambassadors were resolved to have begged his life; but the Athemadoulet, smelling their design, would not permit them Audience. However, the King commanded all the Franks, and all the Armenian Clergy to be present at the Execution, to save all his blood, and put him in a Coffin; he commanded also, that he should be buried at Zulpha in the Armenian Churchyard, and have a Tomb made over him. Thereupon Ralph was lead to the Meidan, with that triangular Instrument of Wood which the Persians call a Palenk, about his neck. This Palenk was the cause that the Brother of the deceased, who was to be the Executioner, not only missed his first blow, but wounded himself in the Leg, while his Skein being born off by one of the sides of the triangular Instrument, by the force of the blow lighted upon himself. Whereupon the people making a great shout hindered farther execution for that time. The King being advertised thereof, remanded him to Prison, and after a few days sent for him a third time into his presence; but though the King offered him a thousand Tomans, and that the Lords urged him to turn, though it were but for a while, and in outward appearance; yet neither threats nor promises could move the Zurickian, who was thereupon executed at the end of October, 1637. All the Franks willingly contributed to raise him a Tomb; which was covered with a small Duomo, supported with four Pillars, ten or twelve foot high. The Armenians have made him a Saint; so that when they are sick of a Fever, they come and make their devotions at this Tomb; and every time they come, they carry away a piece of a Stone; so that the Tomb wants repairing every year. The Athemadoulet, to the end the King might be the less sensible of the want of him, had told the King, that his Majesty would find no great miss of him, in regard he had a Servant who was almost as good as himself. But some few days after, the King's Watch that he always carried about him, being out of order, and Ralph's Apprentice not being able to remedy the fault; the King for madness that he had been the Watchmakers death, threw the Watch at the Athemadoulets head. There, cried he, Dog as thou art, by thy advice I put Ralph to death, the most skilful man of his Profession that ever will come into my Kingdom. Thou deservest for thy counsel, to have thy belly ripped up. But I swear by my Throne, that from this time forward I will never put a a Christian to death for his Religion. And I question whether any of you would have had the same courage to have died for the Law of Haly. And indeed they have been very cautious ever since; nor has any of the Franks been put to death, though they have flown out before the King in words and actions rash enough. CHAP. V Of some particulars under the Reign of Sha-Abbas the second. SHa-Abbas the second, Son of Shakstone Sefi, was no less cruel than his Father; and would be no less punctually obeyed. He had two Sisters, which he married to two of the richest Lords of his Kingdom, though of a very mean extraction. Some time after, the King understanding that they were both with-Child, ordered Physic to be given them to destroy the fruit of their Wombs. About three months after, he was told that they were big again; then he suffered 'em to be brought to bed; but commanded that they should not give the Children any nourishment, but let'em starve to death. The same Shakstone Abbas caused the tongue of one that filled him Tobacco to be cut out for a word spoken idly. For the King calling for Tobacco, one of the Pages ran hastily for it to him that had it in charge, and bid him dispatch; who answered him briskly, Gehennemé sabreijlé, that is, to Hell, have a little patience. The King being informed of it, commanded his tongue to be cut out. The poor man desired him that was the Executioner, to cut it as deep as he could in his throat, and to leave it very short; by which means he spoke some words muffling. The people cried out against the Nazar, who being a person of low extraction, and advanced to that high dignity in a short time, grew so proud that he contemned all the Lords of the Court. There was no dealing with him about any business, unless he were first presented; and he paid no body without making some advantage of it. Every body had reason to complain; yet no person knew how to come at the King to make their complaints. At length they bethought themselves of making their application to two black Eunuches, who had the King's ear in the night. One was called Aga-Saron, who was the Meeter or Master of the Wardrobe; and the other Aga-Kafour, or high Treasurer. These two Eunuches seeing the King in a good humour one night, let fall certain words concerning the Nazar, and his management of affairs, and thence slid into a discourse of His injustice, that caused the people to cryout against him, and speak evil of his Government. Now it happened one morning that the King intending to go a hunting, the Grand Master, who had always a large train attending him, coming to the King's Tent, the Meeter denied him entrance. About the same time the King came forth, and seeing the Nazar, commanded his Officers to take off the Bonnet from the head of that Dog that took Gifts from his people; and that he should sit three days bareheaded in the heat of the Sun, and as many nights in the Air. Afterwards he caused him to be chained about the neck and arms, and condemned him to perpetual imprisonment, with a Mamoudy a day for his maintenance; but he died for grief within eight days after he was put in prison. Jafer-Kan, being a generous Lord, and one that kept a magnificent train, was Governor of Asterabat. At first he was very mild, but at last he began to exact such sums from the people, that his oppressions were very heavy; nor were these violences of his concealed from the King's ear; who being one day drinking with some of his Lords, and seeing the Master of his Music in the Room, who was a merry droll, and had always some pleasant news or other to tell the King; his Majesty was pleased to ask him, what the people said of Jafer-Kan; adding withal, that he had made him Governor of several Provinces, and had never heard any complaint of him before, but that now he was accused of strangely tyrannising over the people. The Music Master being a mere flatterer, and knowing that Jafer-Kan was extremely beloved by the King, confidently averred, that the Governor was falsely accused, and that he had always known him apt to give than to receive. There was at the same time in the Room, an Agis called Manouchar-Kan, lately returned from a Pilgrimage to Mecca; him the King also asked, what was his opinion of Jafer-Kan, and his Government, being a person that had been long acquainted with him; to whom the Agis, thinking to please the King, returned the same answer, that the Music Master had given. Whereupon the King, who had been well informed of the Khan's behaviour, turning toward the Lords that were present, What think you, said he, of these two Flatterers, that absolutely know the contrary to what they speak? And at the same time commanded two of the Music Master's teeth to be pulled out of his mouth, and to be driven into the head of the Agis; which had like to have cost him his life, being a very old man. As for Jafer-Kan, he was disgraced for a time, but being a person endowed with noble qualities, valiant, generous, and pleasing in conversation, he was recalled to Court, and knew so well how to make his tale good, that his Majesty gave him the Government of Shemeloubostan, of which Semeran is the Capital City. Shemeloubostan signifies a Country manured to bear fruit. Nor is there any Province in Persia that so abounds in Pastures and Castles, that daily fall to ruin. Jafer-Kan being restored to favour, the King sent for several Lords of the Court to come and drink with them. He also commanded five French Artificers which he had in his service to wait upon him, a Goldsmith named Sain, two Watchmakers Lagis and Varin, and two Musket-makers Marais and Bernard. After they had heated themselves a little with Wine, the King drew a Ruby out from off his finger, which I sold for him a hundred Tomans, and a Diamond Jewel worth thirteen or fourteen hundred Tomans, which he gave to Jafer-Kan, with whom he was whispering at the same time. Now though the Nazar were at a distance, yet without doubt somewhat of the discourse was heard; insomuch that the Wine emboldening him, he told the King aloud, that if he would let him have but four thousand Horse, he would cut all that Rabble to pieces. The King bid him hold his tongue and go to sleep; testifying his displeasure at his discourse. For the Nazar conjectured that the King was talking to Jafer-Kan about the incursions which the Usbeck Tartars often made from Meshed side. As for the Franks three of the five were gone home to sleep, Sain, Lagis, and Bernard: Maras and Varin stayed behind in the Room. But Marais being of a humour that when he was drunk he could not hold his tongue, and having heard what the Nazar said, he likewise took upon him to tell the King, that if the King wanted a General, there was none fitter to make a General than Jafer-Kan, and presently began a long repetition of his praises. The King commanded him to hold his tongue, which he did for awhile, but then falling again into his former impertinencies, the King commanded him to be dragged out of the Room by the feet, and that they should rip up his belly. Thereupon Marais was seized upon by the Meeter, who having a great kindness for the Franks, and knowing that the King had a singular love for Marais, delayed the execution of the King's command, pulling his clothes off very slowly; and finding that the King did not rise to go into his Haram, which is the sign of no pardon to be given, he caused him to be dragged as near the person of the King as he could, thereby to try whether the King would have compassion on him or no; while certain Lords took the boldness to implore the King's mercy in his behalf. At last when the King saw him dragged along, he commanded the Officers to let him go, and withal ordered him to put on his clothes again, and resume his place. The King of Persia's eldest Son comes very raw to the Throne; and his first divertisement is to make short journeys into the Provinces, thereby by little and little to gain the knowledge of such things as concern him. Above all things he never fails to visit the principal Church of the Armenians at Zulpha. That which makes him so curious, is his desire to see the Armenian women, who are very handsome; being also further incited thereto by the Sultanesses, who are glad of any recreation. And then he has a Courouk through all Zulpha, at what time all the men must retire to Ispahan, or to their Friends at a distance. Sha-Abbas the second went several times in that manner to Zulpha; and one day among the rest, upon the report of the beauty of the Wife of the Kelonter Gorgia Sasras, Son of Kelonter Gorgia Nazar, the King having seen her, liked her very well, and desired her to go along with the Sultanesses, who carried her into the Haram, where she continued fifteen days, and then returned home with a fair Necklace of Pearls, which the King gave her when she went away. To say the truth of Sha-Abbas the second, he was a man too much given to drink, and too much governed by his passion; otherwise he was a lover of justice, and very magnificent and generous to Strangers. CHAP. VI Of the misfortune of Mahomet Beg in the reign of Sha-Abbas the second, MAhomet Beg was born at Tauris, the Son of a Tailor, who bred him a Scholar. He had a quick apprehension, and was naturally inclined to virtue; and being desirous to advance himself in the world, he had the good luck to obtain the employment of Major-Bashi, or chief of the Essayers and Refiners of Money, who has a power to visit all places where money is coined. After that, he became acquainted with the Aila Verdi Beg, or Mr. Godsgift, the King's chief Huntsman, by the title of Mert-Shekar-Bashi, who gladly presented him to the King, to whom the King was very thankful, so soon as he had found the noble Qualities of the person he had presented. Thereupon so soon as Mahomet Ali-Beg, grand Master of the King's House died, the King bestowed that Employment upon Mahomet Beg, who not only gained the favour of his Majesty, but the good will of all the Lords of the Court. He had a great respect for them all, without meddling with any of their employments, and suppressed his revengeful spirit, not finding it seasonable as yet to disclose his passions. Kalise Sultan at that time Athemadoulet happening to die, the King conferred that place upon Mahomet Beg, who at first behaved himself in that employment to the satisfaction of all men. He applied himself particularly to the searching out of Mines; for there had a report ran among the people for many years, that if certain mountains nine or ten miles from Ispahan toward the West were well digged into, their might be found store of Gold, Silver and Copper. To which purpose he made use of a Norman, whose name was La Chapelle de Han, who vaunted at that time to have great skill in Chemistry, Mines and Minerals, for which reason he was recommended by the Governor of Ispahan to the Athemadoulet then at Casbin with the King, who presently sent him back again to the Governor to furnish him with all things necessary for his Expenses, and for the work which he undertook in the Mountains. Thither went La Chapelle, and after fifteen days toil returned to Ispahan with two or three hundred weight of earth, and set up furnaces to draw out the metal. The Athemadoulet was so wise as to give order to the Governor of Ispahan, and three or four more persons of Quality to overview the Norman, to see that he played no foul play. But though there was not so much as a half penny worth of silver in all the earth from the bottom to the top, though the Persians watched him so narrowly as they did, he made a shift to shuffle in an Abassi among the earth, as it was in the furnace without being perceived. Nevertheless the Athemadoulet, to whom it was carried, presently found out the cheat, though he took no notice of it, hoping to make better use of the Norman in other things; only he forbade him to dig any more in that place, in regard the expense would exceed the profit. La Chapelle, who was very skilful at putting off his merchandise, and one who knew to make the best use of the least smackering that he might perhaps have in Mechanics, and the power of Motion, had the cunning to amuse the Athemadoulet for ten years together, being a passionate Lover of new Inventions; and the better to insinuate himself into the King's favour assumed to himself the Invention of several Rarities which he showed the King, who thereupon allowed him a very handsome pension. Thus encouraged, he undertook to cast Canons, bring the water to the top of the King's house, and several other things, yet when all his designs failed for want of Art, and that he found he could do no more good in Persia, resolving for India, he died at Ormus. The Athemadoulet missing of Gold and Silver Mines, applied himself to the discovery of Copper Mines, wherein he was more fortunate; for in those Mines he also found veins of Azure, of which there is a great quantity consumed in painting the Grotesco Flourishes upon the Ceiling and Arches of their Houses. He also found out a Mine of Lead near yard: and being still upon new discoveries, he found out a Mine of Talk, Stone, Alum, and Coals, but of neither so good as in other Countries. He was so obstinate in the search of Metals, that if any person had an occasion to speak with him, let him be never so busy upon never so important affairs, it was enough to bring him some stones of a supposed Mine, or something rare either for Colour, Figure or Weight. He also gave full power to them that brought him any tidings of a Mine to go to the place, and to press the Countrymen from their labour to dig in the Mountains and break up rocks: and if they found nothing he cast the fault upon the ignorance of the Labourers. He also applied himself to the study of Mechanic Motions. He would have found an Invention, whereby the half Veil that hangs in the Kings Megeler, or Council Chamber, and is drawn to and fro by certain Officers in the Summer, to gather the cool Air, should have been made by Engine-work. Then he took a fancy for water Engines, the most necessary thing in the world for Persia to relieve the drought of the Country, but wanting necessaries, as Beams, Rafters, Wheelwork, Cordage and Iron, he could not begin those Engines, the figures whereof La Chapelle had left him in a Book. But as Mahomet Beg was studious in these things, so was he Ambitious and Revengeful to that height that he could not observe a moderation in his resentment against those that had given him any distaste. In his height of Passion he caused several Khans to be deprived of their Provinces, and by confiscating their Estates reduced them to utmost necessity. The Can of Erivan had a Son who was a lovely and a well proportioned Gentleman, and always attended at the King's Elbow. One day that the King was drinking with some Lords, he commanded the Can of Erivans Son to carry a Gold Cup full of Wine to the Athemadoulet, who perceiving that he had enough already, made a sign with his eye to the young Lord to return it back. The young Lord passing by the King told him ingeniously that the Athemadoulet had no desire to drink, whereupon the King commanded him to go and pour the Wine into his bosom. As the one was obliged to obey, the Athemadoulet was forced to suffer, and to permit the young man to open his bosom and power down the Wine; for not daring to show his Anger, he was forced to dissemble the best he could for that time. But having resolved to revenge the affront upon the Can of Erivan Father of the young Lord, who had only done what the King commanded him, he resolved to lay hold upon the opportunity that presented itself, knowing that there were several complains come against him from the Armenians of Erivan. Thereupon the Athemadoulet sends for the Kelonter, encourages him in his suit, and gives him instructions how to proceed. To this end Mahomet Beg appoints him to meet him such an hour at the King's Stables, whither the King presently coming, the Kelonter threw himself at the King's feet, and besought him for Justice against the Can of Erivans oppressions: while Mahomet Beg failed not to heap up aggravations against the Governor, and the King, though he had heard but one side, as easily condemned him upon the Accusation of the Kelonter and his Prime Minister. Thereupon an Officer of the Kings, called Negef-Couli-Beg, a man of a quick and active spirit was commanded to go in all haste, and seize upon the Person of the Can. Who being come to Erivan found him upon his seat of Justice, confiscating and condemning to fine and Corporal punishment a near Kinsman of the Kelonters. The Messenger boldly entered into the Megeler or Council Chamber, goes directly to the Can, told him he was the King's prisoner, and gave him a blow with his fist upon the neck, about which he was to wear the Triangle of great thick pieces of wood already described, into which the neck is enclosed, while the Arms and Hands of the Prisoner are put through another piece of wood that crosses the Triangle, which is a great pain to the Prisoner. Thus was the Can carried night and day to Ispahan, but when he came there the King showed him more mercy, and allowed him his house for a prison, yet not suffering him to go to the Bath, nor to shave his hair, nor to stir out of the Apartment where his women were. These are penalties imposed upon those that fall into disgrace at Court, whom the King shuts up in their houses, intending no severer punishment. For the Can being beloved by the King was restored to his favour, and to his former charge of superintendent of the King's Mosque. Neither did this frighten others from bearing up against the Power of Mahomet Beg, though every one had not the same success. For ill it fared with the Governor of Schiras, who was called Mirza Haddi. He was a person of great wealth and knowledge, and one day in Council took upon him to tell Mahomed Beg, that he was not of his opinion, and withal to lay before him his defects, and ill conduct. But the Prime Minister so deeply laid to heart the boldness of Mirza Haddi, that he resolved to revenge himself by all means imaginable. He suborned false witnesses, and other persons to make complaints before him of the Governor of Schlras. There was a necessity for the party accused to appear before Mahomet Beg as his Judge, but the Governor trusting to his Innocence, ne'er minded the rage of his adversary, not believing he could receive any injury from him. In the mean time Mahomet Beg informed the King what he pleased himself, and overpowering him by his authority, confiscated all Mirza Haddi's Estate, and sent him to prison to the House of the Nazar, who was called Ishmael Beg. When he came there they hung him upon tenterhooks by the feet against the wall, and drubbed him so long, that he was forced to be carried into another Room upon a Slaves back. His Lieutenant and an Eunuch, that had been his Treasurer, were served in the same sauce, and all three put into a high Chamber that served instead of a prison. His Vizier or Lieutenant was released in a short while, but Mirza Haddi and his Eunuch were still kept close. Nor is the manner of his revenging himself upon Mir-Kassem-Beg, the Deroga, or Provost of Ispahan less remarkable. While Mahomet Beg was only Majer-Bashi, there was some gold Plate stolen out of the Kings Kitchin. Thereupon the Deroga sent his Officers to seize upon all the Goldsmiths in Ispahan, that knew nothing of the matter, as being utterly innocent of the Robbery. In the mean time he put them all in prison, and locked them close up, intimating to them that he was resolved not to release them without a good sum of money. The poor Goldsmiths thus ill used, applied themselves to the Majer Bashi, who sent his Officers to entreat the Deroga to consider that the Goldsmiths were innocent of the Robbery, and that being in some manner under the Jurisdiction of the Mayer-Bashi, as being Artificers in Gold and Silver, he ought not to refuse to discharge them at his request. But the Deroga not seeing the money come, bid the Officers of Mahomet Beg tell their Master that he knew what belonged to his Employment, and further, said he, Let the Tailor's Son meddle with his own business; tell him withal, added he, that if he pleases I will show him his Sister's drawers. For a little before the Deroga had by his Spies surprised her toying in a Garden with two young Lords, from whom he squeezed a considerable sum of money. Mahomet Beg not powerful enough then to prosecute his revenge, let it sleep, but when he came to the height of preferment, he remembered the Deroga, and bethought himself which way to ruin him. Nor was it long ere an opportunity offered itself. For there being a report that the Enemy appeared about Candahar, a Frontier Town of Persia upon the Moguls Territories, the Athemadoulet advised the King to raise a good number of Soldiers about Ispahan, as being lusty nimble fellows and used to labour, and to send them to Candaliar, to be ready against all accidents. The King having an entire confidence in the Athemadoulet, ordered him to lose no time, but to commit the management of the Levies to such persons as had perfect knowledge of the plain Country. Then Mahomet Beg, studying his revenge, told the King that there was no person fit for the employment than the Deroga. Mir Kassembeg, who according to his cruel and covetous humour, soon abused his Commission, the thing which he, who had procured it, chief desired. For whereas the King intended that none should be enroled but those that were willing, the Deroga forced every body, especially the Sons of the richest Farmers, who rather than part with their Sons gave the Deroga his own demands to spare them. When Mahomet Beg had got matter enough against the Deroga, he underhand stirred up the Country people to make their complaint, giving them to understand that it was contrary to the King's intention to have them tormented in that manner, that his Commission was only to list those that would go of their own accord. The Villages, easily encouraged, sent their Deputies to Ispahan, whom he kindly received and presented the same hour to the King. His Majesty having heard them, and Mahomet Beg having seconded their complaint, the King ordered that they should make an exact list of what the Commissioners of the Deroga had robbed them of. Mahomet Beg lost no time, but by virtue of his Authority and the King's command, sent his Officers into all the Villages to take the Oath of every Countryman to the end they should declare the truth, under the penalty of a Fine and Corporal punishment, of what had been exacted from them to the utmost Shayet. This Oath was to be put in Paper, signed by every one that made it, in these words, Let my head be confiscated to the King, and my goods to his Divan, if I obey not punctually the Order of his Majesty. The account being made of all the money for which they had compounded with the Deroga, it was presented by Mahomet Beg, who aggravated the Tyranny of the Deroga, and represented to his Majesty that for thirty years he had thus devoured the Territories of Ispahan. Thereupon by the command of the King, who was then at Ispahan, the Deroga was to be carried into the Meydan, and being tied up by the heels to receive a certain number of Bastinadoes upon the feet for so many Fridays one after another; and moreover the nerves of his heels were to be cut, and his ankles to be bored through. The King's command being thus sealed, Mahomet Beg committed the execution thereof to his trusty Instrument Negef-Couli-Beg, who coming to Ispahan assembled the chief of the City, together with the Vizir or Governour, and the Deroga or Provost, who thought of nothing; being met, before they broke open the Kings Seal they made a public Prayer for the prosperity of the King; which being ended, the Vizir opened the Letter and read it with a loud voice. When the Vizir came to read the Sentence against the Deroga, he was seized with astonishment; at what time Negef-Couli-Beg coming to the Deroga, and striking him upon the Neck with his fist, threw him down under his Horse's feet, and caused him to be bound according to custom. Immediately he was hurried to the Piazza, where he received so many Bastinadoes upon the soles of his feet that his nails fell off. The next Friday they brought him to the same place, where they repeated the same Execution, and bored his ankles. The Deroga being very ancient, his pains put him into such a condition as moved Negef-Couli-Beg himself to compassion, who wrote presently to Court, that the continuance of so much torment, would infallibly be the death of the old man. Upon that the King ordered that there should no more be done to him; only that he should be shut up in the inner part of his House with his Wives, depriving him of his employment, but leaving him his Estate. But Mahomet Beg, not having yet completed the revenge he sought, was resolved after he had thus tormented him, to deprive him also of his Estate. To which purpose he advanced to the Office of Deroga, a Georgian Renegado who was called Padada-Beg, whom he taught all the tricks imaginable to pick the people's pockets. The design of Mahomet Beg in this, was to let the King understand, that if the new Deroga could heap up such a sum of money in five or six months, what a prodigious sum must Mir-Kassembeg have heaped up in so many years. In short, the new Deroga instructed and encouraged by Mahomet Beg, levied unjustly such a vast number of fines, committed so many extortions and rapines upon the people, that at the end of six months the people began to tumult at the Palace gate. The Divan Bequi, who is the first Minister of Justice, took the people's part; whereupon Mahomet Beg perceiving he had been too hasty in his design to be revenged upon the Divan Bequi, who had crossed his designs, one morning caused several files of Musqueteers to be drawn up at the Kings Haram. The King surprised at the sight, Mahomet Beg told him that his Majesty was not safe so long as the Divan Bequi stirred up the people to Rebellion: which so incensed the King, that he caused the Groom Porter to go immediately and pull out the Divan Bequi's eyes, which was immediately done; nor did the old man say any more, but with his face all besmeared with his own gore, desired the servant upon whose arms he leaned, to turn him toward Mecca that he might pray for the prosperity of the King. All his goods were confiscated and brought into the Treasury; but Mirabel Kassembeg still enjoyed his, though he was forced to spend the remainder of his days in his own house. Thus Mahomet Beg preserved himself still in the King's favour, and had removed all those persons from the Court that had no kindness for him, and was indifferently safe, till Mir-Tchekar-Bashi another favourite, whom the King highly loved, began to make head against him. These two haughty spirits would not give an inch one to another: and both equally strove to possess the King's favour, to have the disposal of Affairs. Mir-Tchekar-Bashi, who had brought Mahomet Beg into Favour, being the elder pretended a respect due to his years, and Mahomet Beg pretended more due from him by reason of his place. During this contest ran a report of a rebellion upon Georgia side. Whereupon the Athemadoulet persuaded the King to send Mir-Tchekar-Bashi, lately made Koular Agasi or General of the Slaves toward Georgia, that so he might remove his Rival from Court. The Favourite sets forward with a flying Camp, but not finding any Enemy that opposed him, wrote back to the King that he saw no appearance of an Enemy, and that therefore it was a needless thing to tyre the Soldiers in a Country where there was no face of War, and begged his Majesty's leave to return. The Athemadoulet on the other side laboured to hinder his return by preaching to the King the advantages of the stay of those forces in those parts. In this interim the Usbek Tartars had made inroads upon the Frontiers of Carassan, and had slain several of Manoutcheks people, who was governor of the Province. Mahomet Beg who was his Kinsman, gave the King to understand that the Can of Corassan had behaved himself valiantly, but concealed the defeat of the Can. On the other side the Koular Agasi sent Letter upon Letter to the King, but perceiving that none of them came to the King's hands, he sent to Ispahan one of his discreetest and most trusty servants, who coming to Court intermixed himself among the rest of the Lackeys. The Athemadoulet spying an unknown face, and being always mistrustful, demanded who he was? To whom the Messenger answered that he was a poor Soldier upon the frontiers of the Kingdom, who because he could not get his pay there was come to Court to see if he could there get any recompense for his service: upon which reply the Athemadoulet took no farther notice of him. Presently after, the young man meeting the Meter told him he had Letters of importance to deliver into the Kings own hand, of which the Meeter giving notice to the King, the messenger was immediately called in. The King having read the Letters which discovered to him what the Athemadoulet had concealed from him touching the no necessity of keeping forces upon the Frontiers of Georgia, and the loss which the Can of Korassan had received, transported with choler against his prime Minister, sent for him, and after he had most bloodily reviled and reproached him, he was within a little of killing him with his own hands. But the Nazar and some other Lords there present took the boldness to represent to the King the long services which Mahomet Beg had done the Kingdom, and that since his Majesty had raised him from the dust to the highest honours of the Kingdom, it would not be for his honour to destroy at one blow a person that he had loved, and might still be useful to him. This discourse somewhat appeased the King, so that he only gave him in custody to the Nazar. Three days after the King exiled him to Kom, with all his Family, not permitting him to shave himself, go to the Bath, or to come abroad. This Exilement lasted for several years. But my Letters from Persia in the year 1674. informed me that Shakstone Solyman, the present King, has restored him to his Premier Dignity, and that he still governs as Athemadoulet, the King finding no man more capable than himself. CHAP. VII. Of the Rebellion of the Prince of Jasque, a Vassal to the King of Persia, in the reigns of Sha-Sefi I. and Sha-Abbas II. BEtween Cape Jasque, and Cape Guadel which are the two most Southern points of Persia, there lies a mountainous and marshy Country, which extends itself from the Ocean toward the Province of Kerman, and in several places is inaccessible. It is possessed by three petty Princes, the one a Mahometan, the other two toward the East both Idolaters. The first is the most potent of the three, and nearest to the Province of Ormus. He also assumes the title of Prince of Jasque, as his Ancestors did before him. Now after Sha-Abbas the first had conquered Ormus, he went about to have made himself master of all the coast that extends itself beyond Cape Jasque; but meeting with resistance, he only obtained that the Prince of the Country should acknowledge the King of Persia for his Lord, and that as his Vassal he should pay him an annual tribute. And indeed during the reign of Sha-Abbas, who knew how to make himself feared, the Prince of Jasque paid his tribute very orderly. But Sha-Sefi succeeding his Grandfather very young, this tributary Prince shook off his yoke, and refused to pay. Which not being regarded in the reign of Shakstone Sefi, the Prince of Jasque thought to do the same in the reign of Shakstone Abbas the second. But at length after he had refused to pay for some years, the Can of Ormus pretending the Country to be under his Jurisdiction, and that the King's honour was concerned in the Prince's refusal, incited Shakstone Abbas to send forces against him to reduce him to obedience. The King granted the Commission to him that had undertaken the business: who presently gathering together an Army of 20000 men, the most part Horse, thought to have surprised his Enemy. To which purpose that he might take the nearest way, he marched directly toward Cape Jasque. But as it was the shortest cut, it was the most dangerous; insomuch that the Can, who hunted all the way he marched, according to the custom of Persia, had the misfortune to fall into a bog, where he was stifled, together with 20 or 30 horsemen more. The death of the Can being divulged, the Army retreated back again: but as soon as the King received the news, he sent the Brother of the deceased Can to succeed him. In the mean while the Rebel Prince believing within himself, that he was not to be thus at quiet, and expecting to be attacked by the new Can, stood upon his guard. And indeed the new Can marched with all the speed he could, and entered the territories of the rebellious Prince, but being beaten was forced to make more haste back again to Ormus, with the loss of an abundance of men. The Prince of Jasque puffed up with this success, did not believe that the Persians would be so hasty to come again: and thereupon he resolved upon a Voyage for Mecca to give the Prophet thanks for his Victory. To which end he embarked at the nearest place he could to Cape Jasque, thence to make fail toward Arabia. But the Governor of Can understanding his design by his spies, waylaid him by Sea, took him and brought him to Ormus. At that time the heats being excessive, the Governor was retired, according to custom, to the Mountains some ten or twelve Leagues from the City, whither the Prince was carried and brought to the Khan's tent. But while the Can was expecting the return of the Messenger which he had sent to the King for orders what to do with the Prisoner, the Prince's wife hearing of her husband's misfortune, and being a woman of a manlike courage, taking along with her about five or six hundred horse, with little noise and by long marches she at length fell unawares upon the Can about midnight, killed him with her own hand, cut in pieces the greatest part of his men, whom she found asleep, carried away ten or twelve of his wives, and set her husband at liberty in spite of the Persians, who had not time to rally themselves. The news of this defeat coming to Court, the King being highly incensed, sent away the third Brother to be governor of Ormus, with special command to the Governors of Schiras, Lar and Kerman forthwith to raise 30000 horse to revenge affront and reduce the Rebel. The Can of Ormus marched at the head of that Army, and gave Battle, but the Prince being succoured by the other two Idolatrous Princes his neighbours, the Persians were again beaten. Only the Prince of Jasque lost his Lieutenant General, a valiant Captain, and a very good Soldier. The King understanding that the Lieutenant General was the Khan's Prisoner, gave him leave to do with him what he would, in revenge of his Brother's death: who thereupon devised the most cruel torments that ever were heard of. For he first caused the body of the Lieutenant General to be larded with lighted Candles, and then setting him upon a Camel ordered him to be led softly about the streets every day in the very heat of noon. A torment almost insufferable, which the heroic Indian nevertheless endured with an invincible courage. After the Can had tormented him in this manner three days together, the chief of the Holland Company and other strange Merchants abhorring so much cruelty, begged of the Can to surcease his rigour, who readily granted them their request. CHAP. VIII. Observations upon the reign of Shakstone Soliman the present King. ALi-Couli-Kan had been three or four times exiled from the Court, for speaking with two much liberty. For he was bold and could not keep his tongue between his teeth. For which reason he was called the King's Lion, who was wont to chain him up when he had no occasion for him, and to let him lose when he had any business for him to do. The last time he was exiled, he was kept five or six years in a Fortress out of which he had never stirred: but one day, having a smooth tongue, he overperswaded the Commander to give him leave to go a hunting with him. When he returned, with the help of some of his servants, he fell upon the Commander, and gave him so many Bastinadoe's upon the feet, that he had like to have killed him: telling him withal, that it was to teach him his duty not to let a man go that the King had committed to his charge. Shakstone Sephi, though very young, hearing of this, and desirous to see Ali-Couli-Kan, notwithstanding all the endeavours of the Grandees to hinder his return, commanded him to be set at liberty, and that he should have a better allowance to live upon. Two or three days after, the King sitting in Council, the whole Assembly was amazed to see Ali-Couli-Kan enter, who approaching his Majesty with a profound reverence, told him that the Lion being now let lose was humbly come to kiss his hands. Thereupon the King fell a laughing, and casting a favourable glance upon him, told him he had done well. Nor was it long ere the King finding him no less pleasant in conversation, than a valiant and expert Captain, made him Generalissimo of his Armies, as he had been in the reign of Shakstone Abbas. When the Court saw Ali-Couli-Kan so well received, every one than laboured to testify their joy for his return. They sent him Horses, Mules, Camels, rich Carpets, and every thing fit to furnish a Lords house. But all this while he wanted money, which because he could not meet with among the Persians, he was forced to have recourse to the Armenians, of whom he desired to borrow five or six hundred Tomans. As for the Kalenter he would have had the sum lent, but the rest would not. Thereupon the King taking a walk to Zulpha, Ali-Couli-Kan put it into his head to go and see the great Cathedral belonging to the Armenians, where several Bishops with several Monks reside. The King entering into the Church, where the Bishop stood ready at the head of the Clergy to receive him, and seeing all things new and strange, as coming but lately out of the women's Haram, asked his favourite what sort of people those were clad in such an extraordinary manner. Ali-Couli-Kan told him they were Devils, Devils! said the King, What! added he, dost bring me into a house of Devils? The King thus incensed against the Armenians, resolved to force 'em to turn Mahumetans. But Ali-Couli-Kan, being a Georgian, repenting that he had raised the King's indignation to so high a pitch, and not believing it would be any advantage to him for the Armenians to turn Mahumetans, contented himself only with frighting them, which was enough to bring the Armenians upon their knees, and to make them come and beg the Intercession of his authority. Which favour, as he ordered it, cost the Armenians ten thousand Tomans to the King, and four or five thousand Tomans to his Favourite. The 23. of September 1677. the King made a Cavalcade, than which there could be nothing imagined more magnificent. All the richest Furniture was brought out of the Exchequer into the Meydan. The golden buckets to water the Horses. The golden Fat out of which they take the water, together with the buckles, harness and nails of gold, to which the Horses are tied. After the King had played at Mall, as I have already described, and had also shot at the Goblet upon the top of the Mast in the middle of the Meydan, he went and fate in the Divan, which is over the Gate called Ali Capi, where he had the pastime to see Lions, Bulls, Bears, Tigers and Rams fight. But that which was most admirable, was to see a man stand upright upon the Saddle while the horse ran full speed, which he did three times the whole length of the Meydan. The first time, 'tis true, he fell, but the two last times he stood firm. On day the same Ali-Couli-Kan presented two handsome Youths to the King, which had both delicate voices. The King hearing them sing, was very much troubled that he could not make use of them in his Haram, which Ali-Couli-Kan observing, sent for a French Chirurgeon, and promised him a great reward if he could cut the youths and save their lives. The Chirurgeon for lucre of a large recompense, cut them both and cured 'em very well. Which done, Ali-Couli-Kan, presented the two youths to the King, who was surprised to see them, but was well pleased that he had got two such new attendants in his Haram. But see the reward of such a wicked action. Ali-Couli-Kan died soon after. The Chirurgeon never was paid: and being advised to present a Petition to the King by the Meeter, the Meter asked him whither he would turn Mahometan: which when the Chirurgeon denied to do, the Meeter bid him be gone like a Rascal, telling him withal that he did not think the Religion of the Christians had permitted such acts of villainy. The two youths were born at Cashan, and had both Fathers and Mothers, and were promised in Marriage. When their Parents heard of it, they came to Ispahan, to weep over their Children. Which the King observing, to appease their sorrow, gave them a Pension during life. CHAP. IX. Of the Government of Persia. THE Government of Persia is purely Despotic or Tyrannical. For the King has the sole power of life and death over all his Subjects, independent from his Council, and without any Trials or Law-proceeding. He can put to what death he pleases the chief Lords of the Kingdom, no man daring to dispute the reason: nor is there any Sovereign in the world more absolute than the King of Persia. The King deceasing and leaving Male Issue behind him, the Eldest ascends the Throne, while his Brothers are kept in the Haram, and their eyes are put out: and if there be the least suspicion of any contrivance against the King, they are forthwith put to death without any farther examination. And not only they, but the Children also of the King's Brothers and Sisters. I remember when I first travelled into Persia, they were not so rigorous, but were contented to move a red hot iron to and fro before their eyes. But Sha-Sefi perceiving his command had been negligently executed, and that the poor unhappy Princes had some sight left them, he ordered their eyes to be digged out of their heads. Sha-Sefi's cruelty went yet farther, for he spared not his Eldest Son Shakstone Abbas, the lawful Heir to his Throne, ordering one of his Eunuches to move an Iron before his eyes, no man being able to tell the reason. But the Eunuch compassionating the young Prince, did indeed move an Iron, but not a red hot Iron before his Eyes, and teaching him to counterfeit himself blind, preserved his sight till his Father lay upon his deathbed: at which time his Father was very penitent, for having put out the eyes of his Eldest Son, to whom the Throne of right belonged. The Eunuch seeing the King so sadly afflicted and ready to give up the ghost, assured him that he would restore the Prince to his sight, and to comfort him at his death, brought the Prince with perfect eyes to the bed side. The sight of which prolonged the King's life till next day; and gave him time to command all the Grandees of the Court to obey Shakstone Abbess his Eldest Son, as his lawful Successor and their King. But to return to these blind Princes; There were several at Ispahan when I was there: and I knew one particularly, who is still alive, and is a person of excellent natural parts. As blind as he is, he is a great lover of Curiosities, and has built him a House in Ispahan, which is worthy a man's sight. He is overjoyed when any person brings him any rarities out of Europe, feeling them in his hands, and causing his Eunuches, which are very apprehensive, to tell him the meaning of every thing. He is a great admirer of Clockwork and Watches, and can tell by his finger when a Watch is right in the Case. To know what a Clock it is, he has little points set up in the Dial-plate, and a half hand, to the end he may not be deceived which part of the hand points to the hour. By means of certain figures which he makes of soft wax, and sets in order upon a Table, he will cast up an account very exactly. Several other good qualities I admired in him; and it grieved me to see a man reduced to that miserable Condition, only because he was of the blood Royal of Persia. Though the Employments of the Kingdom generally fall from Father to Son, yet the King if he pleases may bequeath the Governments of Provinces or any other dignities to any of his Goulams' which are his Slaves, if he find them capable, and thinks they may be fit for his service. The Father to leave the Employment to his Family, labours by degrees to introduce his Son, and to obtain the Survivorship for him. But if the Father die, and leaves the Survivorship to an Infant, there is generally a person of Age and Experience sent along with him. Some there are also that obtain employments by presenting the Favourites at Court. The State of Persia is distinguished like most of the European States, into three Bodies. The first is that of the Sword, which answers to the Nobility, and comprehends the King's household, the Khans, and all the Soldiery. The second is that of the Quill, comprehending all those that belong to the Law and the Courts of Justice. The third is composed of Merchants, Handicraftsmen and Labourers. CHAP. X. Of the first of the three Orders or States of Persia, which comprehends the King's Household, the Khans or Governors of Provinces, and the Soldiery. THE Premier Minister of the Kingdom is called Athemadoulet, or the support of Riches. His office is the same with the Grand Vizirs in Turkey, and may be compared to the ancient Mayors of the Palace in France. In regard all the affairs of the Kingdom pass through his hands, he ought to be rather a Gowoman than a Soldier: and herein he only differs from the Grand Vizier, who is always to be at the head of the Army, and for every slight fault or distaste is subject to be strangled by the Grand Signior. Whereas in Persia where the Government is milder, the Prime Ministers generally die in their beds, or if they are Deposed, they are only exiled to some frontier City, where they live as private men. When the King is young, the Prime Minister has a hard game to play, for then the Favourite Eunuches and the Sultanesles disannul and cancel in the night whatever orders he makes in the day time. The Nazar or Seer has the charge of all the King's goods, of his breeds of horses, of his moveables, of his clothes and Plate: much like the grand Master of the King's House in France. The Mehter, who is always a white Eunuch, is the first Gentleman of the King's Chamber, and follows the King with a kind of bag hanging by his side full of handkerchiefs. And as he is always at the King's elbow, if he have the King's ear, it is easy for him to befriend or do unkindnesses, as his inclination leads him. During the minority of the King, some of these Mehters have been known to govern the Kingdom. The Mir-Akhor-Bashi, or Grand Esquire, has the Charge of the King's Stables, which as well as the Gate of Ali-Capri, are a place of Refuge, and whoever saves himself therein, let it be for Murder or Debt is safe. All the Horses in the King's Stable are marked with a hot iron upon the left hip, and those that belong to private persons upon the right. Those that the King gives to them that serve in his Armies, have the King's mark, and are not to be sold, but they may be chaffered away. If any of those Horses happens to die in a Horseman's hands, he must flay off the King's mark, and carry it to the under Officers of the General of the Cavalry, to have another, otherwise he would be forced to buy another at his own expenses. Those people by laying the skin in the water, know, though by what art I cannot tell, whither the Horse died of age or sickness, or whither he were maliciously killed. For in times of Peace there are some Horsemen that will kill their Horses, to save the Charges of keeping any more than themselves: then at the next Muster they bring the skin of their Horse, with the mark on, to the Officers, and get another, unless they be found out. Nor are their Horses only marked, but their Scimitars, Muskets, Bows and Quivers, all which they must show to the Commissioners every Muster. Sha-Abbas the second being at Casbin in the year 1654., took a general view of his Cavalry, which lasted for ten or twelve days. For the King sitting in the Portal of one of his Gardens, with his Officers standing about him, every day caused so many troopers to ride by him: which were all stout active men and well mounted. Every Soldier galloped singly by him; and coming just under the King, he shot an Arrow against a Butt of Turf that was thrown up upon his left hand, and when the Muster was over, the King advanced the Pay of every Horseman, who according to the sentence of the Judges had shot nearest the mark. I was then at Casbin, and I remember one Soldier, who quite contrary to what the other Horsemen did, walked his Horse along by the King, and never shot, but only laid his hand upon his breast, and then upon his forehead, which is the Ceremony of Salutation used by the King. He was a very homely fellow, with a flat tawny countenance: so that his behaviour and his presence offending the King, in a chafe he commanded that black rascal to be cashiered out of his service. Immediately they took away his Horse and his Arms, and were going about to have drubbed him, but that the General of the Cavalry made them a sign to let him alone. Immediately the General gave the King to understand that he was one of the best Soldiers in the Army: as he had signally made it appear at the Sieges of Erivan and Candahar. Upon that the King caused his Horse and Arms to be restored him again, and commanded him to ride by him as the rest of the Soldiers had done. When he came against the Butt, instead of obeying the King's command, he turned his Horse to the right and left, without saying a word. The General fearing he would offend the King again, bid him shoot. What shall I shoot at? Sir said he. Against the place where all the rest have shot, answered the General. Then the Soldier shaking his head and smiling, 'Tis not my way, said he, to spend my Arrows against a wall; for I know how to make use of 'em better against the body or head of the Enemies of my King. I would then shoot thrice before another could shoot once. At the same time he draws out two Arrows out of his Quiver, one of which he held in his mouth, and put the other to his bow: and then setting spurs to his Horse he out-rid the Butt for the nonce, to shoot backward, which he did, and hit the very middle of the white, then turning his horse's head and passing the Butt as before, he shot the second Arrow into the same hole, whence they had pulled the first Arrow. Then the General approaching near the King, told him that by what he had heard and seen, he might well believe that Horseman to be as brave a Soldier as any in the Army: which his Majesty confessed, and from three Tomans advanced his pay to 15 Tomans. The Mir-Shikar-Bashi, or the Grand Master of the Hunt, who is also employed as Grand Falconer. He has under him a thousand Officers, and a great number of Birds of prey, and managed Hawks. The Seguan Bashi receives the orders of the Grand Master of the Hunt. He has charge of the Dogs, Lions, Leopards, and other Beasts for Chase. The Kindar Bashi, who has charge of the King's Saddles. The Zinkan-Courlshisi is the chief of the Querries, that hold the King's stirrup, when he gets a Horseback. The Kelege-Courlshisi carries the King's sword. The Oriaje-Courlshisi carries his Bow and Arrows. The Vakanviez is as it were the chief Secretary of State: an employment never conferred but upon a Favourite. He also reads all Petitions and Papers that are represented to the King. The Kasnadar-Bashi is he that keeps all the Money which is in the King's Coffers, whom we call the High Treasurer. The Ishik-Agasi-Bashi is the Grand Master of the Household, who has several Officers under him. The Mehmender Bashi is the Master of the Ceremonies. The Hakim-Bashi is the King's chief Physician, by whose allowance all the Physicians of the Kingdom are licenced. The Munedgin Bashi is the chief of the Astrologers. The Divan-Bequi is the chief Justiciar, as well in Civil as in Criminal causes, and he keeps his Court either in Ali Capi, or in the King's House, where his Majesty sometimes presides himself when he pleases. Before him as being an Officer of great Authority all the Criminals in the Kingdom make their appeal, and he makes out process against the Khans, and other Grandees of Persia. The Deroga is much like the Lieutenant Criminal in France, from whom it is lawful to appeal before the Divan Bequi. He has an eye upon Robberies, Batteries and Murders, and he has power to suppress Houses of Debauchery. If he catch any debauched persons, he has power to give them the Bastinado, or to fine them: and most commonly he spares corporal chastisement to punish their purses. The Sofragi-Bashi is he that spreads the Sofra before the King. The Chirakgi-Bashi is he that has charge of the Wine: chief the Schiras wine, which is particularly kept for the King, who seldom drinks any other. Nor can any particular person in Schiras make Wine till the Court be first served, and that with the leave of the Chirategi-Bashi; there being none but the Franks and Jews that make it. The Mesheal-Bashi is the chief of the Torchbearers; who furnishes the Court with Candles, which are all of Wax. To this Mesheal-Bashi belong all the fines of those that play at Cards or Dice, the Law of Mahomet forbidding all Games of hazard. This Officer has several inferior Officers under him, who go from place to place to spy where they can find any persons at play: and he has power to break open any house, unless the Master be of great Quality. The Kahuergi-Bashi is he that has ear of the Kahué, the Rose-water, and other distillations which the Persians drink; as Bilmishe, made of the buds of brown Sallows. The Kara-Setashe is the King's Chirurgeon, or Barber, who lets him Blood, and shaves his Head, and cannot part with his place to another. The Capigi-Bashi is the great Porter, who has under him several other Officers. The Melikultugagear is he that has charge of the Stuffs for the King's Household, and puts them out to the Tailors. He takes an account of the shreds and old habits, which serve to make Clothes for the Soldiers, deducting for them out of their pay. The Gelander-Bashi is the chief of the Footmen. The Mir-ahe, or the Prince of the Seals, is the Superintendent of the Seals; and for profit, is one of the best employments in the Kingdom. He has the sale of the Canal-water to the Countrymen; for which he makes the Farmers pay a severe rate. The Karkrone is the House for the Royal Manufactures, where the Gold and Silver-Carpets are made, as also those of Silks and Worsted, together with Tissues, Velvets, and Taffeta's. There are other Workmen that make Coats of Mail, Bowes, Arrows, Scimitars, and other Arms. In other Apartments are Limners that paint in Water-colours; Lapidaries, and Goldsmiths, that only make Silver-Rings. For in regard the Persians cannot say their Prayers when they have any Gold about 'em, they never wear Jewel or Ring of Gold, because it would be troublesome to pull 'em off, and lay 'em up so many times a-day. And therefore the King of Persia causes all his Jewels to be set in Silver, as we set all our Stones in Gold. As for working Goldsmiths, they have none in Persia; all their Gold and Silver-Plate being wrought by the Copper-smiths in round figure, for they have not the art to frame an Oval. The Nakkashe-Bashi is the Sergeant-painter, who only works in miniature; they cover their Pictures with a Varnish made of Mastich steeped in a certain Oil that distils from a Rock that points upon the Caspian-Sea not far from Shamatri. It distils out of the Rock at first like water: but afterwards it thickens till it become as thick as Salad-oil, preserving still its whiteness. There are also three other Rocks not far from the former, from whence this Oil distils; but it is thicker, and of darker colour. The Negeach-Bashi is the chief of the Joiner's. The Embardar-Bashi has the charge of the King's Granaries, and other Provisions, having several Officers under him. The Odondar-Bashi is the Master of the Woodyard. The most part of these Officers have their diet in the King's House, or else an allowance of Diet from thence. The Tushemal-Bashi is the Clerk of the Kitchen. He order what shall be served up to the King, and when the Table is cleared, he sticks his Knife in the best dish, and orders it to be carried home to his own House. Now for the Officers of War, the principal are; First, the Sepeh-Salar, Generalissimo of the King of Persia's Armies, who is never constituted but in time of War; which being ended, his employment ceases. His place in Council is immediately next to the Athemadoulet. Now in regard the Militia is divided into three sorts, there are also three Generals. The three Bodies of the Militia are the Corschis, the Goulams', and the Tusenlegis. The Corschis are descended from a foreign race, which have still a great repute for their Valour. These people live in Tents, like the Turcomans; and they send their Youth betimes to the King. They furnish their Youth also with all necessaries, and maintain them till they come to be taken notice of by the King. They are all Horsemen, well paid, and well looked to, and are many times advanced to the Supreme Dignities of the Kingdom. They are generally called Kesel-Bashi, or Red-heads, because that formerly they wore red Bonnets. It is said that the King has about 22000 of these Corchis in pay, all good Soldiers, that do wonders in Battle. Sha-Abbas the first did what he could to abolish this Militia, and to set up the Goulams' in their stead. His hatred against them was only because he thought them too powerful; for he was wont to say to his Favourites, that nothing but the Puissance of the Corchis, could oppose the Royal Power. Thereupon he took away some of their Privileges, and gave them to the Doulams'; but he could not bring about his design any farther. The General of the Corchis is called Corschi-Bashi, and aught to be one of their Body; nor can the King impose another upon them. The Mim-Bashi commands a thousand Men, the Yux-Bashi commands a hundred, and the Om-Bashi commands ten. The Corschi-Bashi has 150 Tomans a year; the Mim-Bashi sixty-two; the Yuz-Bashi thirty, and the Om-Bashi fifteen. The pay of every Horseman is from nine to fifteen Tomans a year. Besides, every year the King makes a general Muster, and then he gives to the Corschis a third part more than their usual pay; however, to some more, to others less, either according to favour or merit. When the King has resolved to put a great Man to death, he commits the execution of his command to a Corschi. The Gouler-Agasi is General of the Goulams', or Slaves. For indeed they are either Slaves, or the Sons of Slaves of all sorts of Nations, who do the King very good Service They are for the most part runagade Georgians; and there are about 18000 of these Goulams', being all Horsemen; whose pay is from five to eight Tomans a year. The Corschis are very good Husbands; but the Goulams', as soon as they have received their pay, fall a drinking and swaggering; whereas the other, if he has a Piastre to spare, will buy a Sheep with it: For in regard they live in Tents, their Riches consists in Flocks. The greatest part of the Court of Persia is made up of these two Bodies. The Goulams' have this peculiar to themselves, that they are very rarely known to revolt. For being all Slaves, and of different Nations, there are no ties of Affection or Kindred between them: And if the King has an occasion to punish any of them, the chief of their Body is to execute his orders. The Goulams' carry no other Arms besides a Bow and Arrows, with a Skein. Though some wear Coats of Mail, and Headpieces: others Vambraces and Battleaxes. These Horsemen never entrench in the Field like ours in Europe, nor have they any Field-Marshals to assign them quarters. For after the chief have taken up the best places, the rest set up their Tents as near as they can to the Pavilion of the General. The Tufenkgiler-Agasi is the General of the Tufenkgiss, who compose the third Body of the Militia. This part of the Soldiery was but lately instituted, being composed of men taken from the Plough, as being most fit for labour. They are Footmen with only a Scimitar and a Musket. But when they march, they have a Horse or a Mule between three or four, to carry their Baggage and Provisions. Their pay is not above four or five Tomans a year. And for their Officers, their pay is more or less according to their Quality and Command. They are in no great reputation, being laughed at by the old Soldiers, as being a company of poor Countrymen, that dare not look an enemy in the face. Not but that the Infantry of Persia is able to do good service; though, as numerous as they are, the King never makes use of them, but in case of necessity. When he marches in person, he sends for eight or ten thousand, which he sends for out of what Province best pleases him, and they prove very useful to the Army, as Sutler's. This Infantry is composed of the Countrymen that live in Tents, abiding in the Mountains all the Summer, and betaking themselves in the Winter to the hot Countrreys. Every Tribe or Family knows how many men it ought to set out. And there is not a Footman that has not his new-Suit in his Chest, and his Musket and Scimitar in very good order. They are well trained, and well disciplined; for every three months the Governor of the Province takes a review of all the Soldiers in his Province, and causes them to be exercised in his own presence. They are ordered to shoot at a mark, and they that hit it, are sure to have some reward from the Governor. When the King sends for any part of his Infantry, they presently know who is to lead 'em; and they are all lusty, and well clad, never putting on their best Clothes but when they muster, or march into the Field. They pay to the King little or nothing: for of all their cattle great and small, they pay but one in the hundred to him, and one Abassi, or 18 Sous of our Money. The Eshek-Agasi, or chief of the Keshekshiss, who are the King's Guards, and carry a Musket with a very wide bore. They were but lately instituted by the Athemat-doulet, when he intended to destroy the Divan-begui. This Officer has about 2000 men under him, of which he disposes every night a certain number, round about the Palace. When the King sits in Council, he stands there with a Battoon in his hand, and throws himself to the ground when the King beckons to him to come and receive any command from his mouth. The Topigi-Bashi is the Master of the Ordnance, and chief of the Sea-affairs, but he has little to do in either employment. For, as for the Cannon, there are only some two or three pitiful Guns in some of the Frontier-towns: And for Ships, there are none in Persia but what come from Europe or the Indies to Ormns or Balsara. The Persians themselves have no other Ships than some few large Barks in the Persian-gulf, and in some parts of the Caspian-Sea, where they keep a Fleet against the Usbeck Tartars, the Kalmouks, and other people. As for the Kaus or Governors of Provinces, they are generally chosen out of the body of Corschi's and Goulams'; who are handsome persons, and generally much more Valiant than the natural Persians. For the natural complexion of the Persians is not good, as may be seen by the Gaures, the original Inhabitants of the Country, who are for the most part tanned, and ill-shaped. So that there is hardly a Persian, from the King to the meanest of his Subjects, who is not a Georgian, or sprung from the loins of Georgians. For they fetch a great number of Slaves out of Georgia; by the frequent Marriages of whichwomen, the Georgian Valour and Beauty are become Natives of Persia. The Khans or Governors of Provinces are as so many petty Kings, feared and respected by all the people. And when they are settled, they are never deposed, but upon repeated complaints of their excessive Tyranny. There are some of these Governments that yield the Can seven or eight thousand Tomans. But they are bound to present the King every year at Nourons, or New-years-tide. Under the Khans there are also Governors of lesser quality, who are also immediately preferred by the King, and cannot be deposed by any person but himself. If they abuse their Authority, the complaints brought against him are first carried to the Can,; which, if they concern the Government of the Kingdom, the Can is bound to inform the King thereof. But if the complaints are not considerable, than the Can may do Justice himself, and make the Sultan's know their duty. There is yet a third sort of Governors, called Asephs, who are the King's Lieutenants in places where he had Khans in former times; or where he ought to have them still, but only to save charges. For in the Provinces where Khans Govern, they and their Officers, almost equalling in name and number the Officers of the King's Household, devour all the profits of the Province, but what the Can is obliged annually to pay. By what I have wrote as well concerning the King's Household, the Governors of his Provinces, and the Officers of his Army, it may be easily concluded that the King of Persia's Court is the most magnificent and glorious of all the Courts of Asia; and besides, that it is the most Polite and Civil of all the Orient. CHAP. XI. Of the second Order, containing all those that belong to the Ecclesiastical Law, and their Courts of Justice; and, in general, of all the Gownsmen; such as are chief the Officers of the Chamber of Accounts. THE second of the three Estates of Persia comprehends the Gownsmen, such as are the Doctors of the Law, the Officers of Justice, and those of the Chamber of Accounts. As the Athemat-doulet is the Prime Minister in Temporals, the Sedre is the Prime Minister in Spirituals, and the Highpriest of the Law. However, he does not pretend to take place before the Athemat-doulet either in Council, or in the public Ceremonies. There is this difference between the Sedre and the Mufti in Turkey, that in Persia Ecclesiastical Dignities are no bar from Civil Employments; so that the Sedre is many times made Athemat-doulet. The Dignity of Sedre is not limited to one single person, but may be divided between two, in regard there are two sorts of Legacies, the one from the King's of Persia, the other from particular persons. Therefore for the more careful Superintendency over these two sorts of Legacies, there are sometimes two Sedres appointed. The one is called Sedre-Kras, particular or peculiar Sedre, who manages all the Revenues of the Royal Foundations, and distributes them to the Mullaks and Students according to their merit. The other is called Sedre-el-mankoufat, who has the management of private Foundations. In the year 1667 the King created two Sedres, and married them to two of his Sisters. The Sedre has two men under him, whose Authority is almost equal to theirs. The one is called Speik-el-selom, and the other Cadi: and these are they that decide all controversies in Religion, judge of Divorces, make Contracts and public Acts. These two Dignities are in the King's nomination: and in all the principal Cities of the Kingdom there are two of these Ecclesiastical Judges for all matters that concern the Law. To every Mosque there belongs a Pichnamaz, who is always first there before Prayers begin; and he teaches the people to Pray by learning of him, having their eyes always fixed upon him to that end. This Picknamaz is the same with him whom the Turks call Iman. The Moullahs are the Doctors of the Law, as are the Hodgia's in Turkey, and they are well paid out of the Legacies given to the Mosques, for reading every Friday, and interpreting the Alcoran to the people. He that reads, sits in one Chair; and he that interprets, in another, somewhat lower upon the lefthand of the Reader. They are also bound to teach the Sciences to all those that require it: and, as a mark of Sanctity, they wear a great white Turban, with a single Chamlet-habit of the same colour. Their gate is grave, and their discourse very serious; yet all this is but pure hypocrisy. When they light into any considerable company of people, they presently rise, and exhort 'em to go to Prayers. At the same time they wash their heads, their hands, and their feet, and spread a felt upon the ground, or if they are poor, a single mat. Upon this, at one end, the Maulla knelt, at the other lies a flat Stone about the bigness of the palm of a man's hand, which was brought from Mecca. Which Stones the Moullahs always carry about 'em; for being commanded while they are at their devotions often to kiss the ground, they rather choose to kiss a Stone brought from so holy a place, than the profane Earth. They have a kind of a Mariner's compass, which directs them punctually where Mecca stands, to the end they may know which way to turn when they say their Prayers. The Prayer which the Moulla's make, seems to be accompanied with a great deal of zeal, and they take great notice all the while whether the company be attentive or no. Some Persians are so superstitious, that a Vizir of Schiras suffered his leg to rot off, because he would not let a Christian Chirurgeon touch him, for fear of being defiled. There belongs also to every Mosque a Montevelis, who looks after the repairs of the Building, and the Provision of what belongs to the Mosque; together with a Movazen, who cries morning and evening from the top of a Tower, That there is but one God, and that Mahomet is his Prophet. Colleges, the Persians call Medrese; where there are a great number of Scholars bred up at little charge, out of the Legacies left to the Foundations. They allow them a Chamber without any Furniture, they being to provide a Coverlet and a Mattress for themselves. They have no certain Masters, but sometimes they go for their instructions to one, sometimes to another, seldom to the Principal of the College, who is called Monderes, and is generally the greatest Blockhead of them all. But there are several other persons in every good City that are forward to teach the Sciences to purchase honour to themselves. For which reason they are very liberal, to get a great company of Followers together, who are as so many Trumpets to publish the wisdom of their Akroom or Doctor. But when their Liberality ceases, the Trumpets want breath at the same time. Now, as to their manner of studying, the Student first reads two or three lines, and then the Doctor Expounds. Then another reads two or three lines more, and so one after another; every one rising up out of respect after he has done reading, and standing upright till the Doctor bids him sit down again. One of these Doctors shall teach all manner of Sciences in one day; for he is not learned that cannot talk of all. And certainly had the Persians those advantages of Books, and that method of study which we have in Europe, they would prove to be men of great understanding: for with those little helps they have, they will give a good account of their own Theology, of Logic, Physic, and the Mathematics, wherein they strive to reach the bottom of things as deep as they can. Their Books are for the most part the works of an ancient Persian Author, whose name was Kodgia Nesir in the City of Thouss, in the Province of Korassan. 'tis very probable he was well skilled in the Greek and Arabic, having translated into Persian several Books out of those two Languages. They have some pieces of Aristotle which are accounted the best in the West: The Almagistes of Ptolemy, which they call Magesti; some tractates of Euclid, some fragments of Archimedes: the Optics of Ebne, Heister, and other excellent Books. Some have affirmed that they have been skilled in the doctrine of Sines and Tangents for above this 800 years: and indeed they are very curious at this day in Mathematical Instruments. They have also a great inclination to Poetry, the chiefest grace whereof they believe to consist in design of accidents, and high comparisons, observing Rhyme as we do. As for Physic, they have Galen, whom they call Galenous; Averro, whom they call Abovalt, or great Father; and Hermes Trismegistus, whom they call Ormous. The most considerable of their Historians is Ronze el Sapha, who wrote a Chronology from the Creation of the World to his time; wherein there are abundance of fables, but little truth. He says that the World was inhabited by Devils for an infinite number of years before the Creation of Adam, and that God for their enormities deprived them of their power upon earth, and gave it to man to manage. Their Books, though deer, are very common, and every Tradesman buys 'em, being very ambitious to learn the Sciences themselves, and to encourage their children to do so too. They send them betimes to the School, which they call Meklebe, of which there are several in every Quarter. They make a hideous noise in their Schools, repeating their Lessons altogether aloud, while the Master corrects every Boy that does not keep along with the Cry. As for the children of persons of Quality, they have Tutors at home, never stirring out of doors till they are 18 years of age, unless it be to go a hunting or a shooting now and them. Hence it comes to pass, that the Children are discreet, civil and modest; so that you shall never hear an ill word come out of their mouths. In the Chamber of Accounts are many Officers, whom I look upon as Gownsmen. All the Books and Registers pass through their hands, particularly such Papers as concerned the King's Revenue. All which are registered in the Chamber of Accounts at Ispahan, which is called Defter-Krone. As to the Fee-Lands called Moulkerbar, which belong to particular persons, they own to the King a certain annual Rent, which the Governors of Provinces exact with a severe extortion. The Mestempti and the Memalek are they that value the Rent of all Lands in Demesh, which is one of the principal charges of the Defter-Kroon. They also take cognisance of all the King's Farms, Quitrents, Provisions and Expenses of Receivers and Collectors. There is also a Mestempti to value Legacies. The Nazer controls the Mestempti and the Memalek, and his hand is required to all Papers of dispatch. The Deroga or Provost of the Dester-Kroon is to prosecute and punish all that are guilty of false Receipts, or of Exaction. Into this Office are delivered all the Grants and Assignations of the wages of the King's Officers. Every man comes and receives his own, or sends for it to those places upon which this Money is assigned. In every Village or Borough there is a Reis, or chief of the place, to whom the Officers apply themselves for their Money: for should they terrify the Countryman, he would run quite away, and pay nothing. The greatest cheat in this Chamber of Accounts, is, that in regard the Officers keep the Roll of the Officers wages, they will give them divers Bills to receive little parcels at several places distant from one another, till the Sum be made up; to which trouble rather than the King's servant will be put, he will give a good gratuity to the Officer to pay him all together. But because the Officers are not able to satisfy all that come, there are certain Thahsilders or hoarders up of Rent, who buy for ready Money as cheap as they can, such Bills as private men come to receive at the Chamber; and when they have got a good number together, they go and receive them altogether at the Chamber, and make great advantage. By this misgovernment of the Dester-Kroon, several persons are very much oppressed. For he that has but 30 Tomans a year, shall be forced to give a good share out of it to have the rest in ready Money; which has been often the ruin of the Persian Army, through the abuses and defalcations put upon the poor Soldiers. During the Reign of Sha-Abbas the 1; and toward the beginning of the Reign of Sha-Sefi his Son, the Exchequer was better regulated; but when the Persians came to be at Peace with their Neighbours, the King and his Lords have minded nothing less than the payment of the Soldiery. The greatest part of the Lands in Persia belong to the King, and are only farmed by private persons. The rest of the Lands are measured, and every Land pays so much a measure. The King also has a vast income by the Merchandizes that pay Custom and Toll. The Port of Bander-Abassi alone brings him one year with another, when least, besides accidents, near upon 20000 Tomans. CHAP. XII. Of the third Estate of the Kingdom, comprehending the Tradesmen and Merchants: as also of the Trades, Manufactures, and Commodities of Persia. THe Commerce of Persia, as in all other Kingdoms, consists in the Trade of the Country and Foreign Traffic. Only with difference, that the Country Trade is in the hands of the Persians and Jews, the foreign Traffic in the hands of the Armenians only, who are as it were the Kings and the Noble men's Factors to sell their silk. As for the Handicraft trades, there are some Corporations that pay a certain yearly duty to the King, as Shoemakers, Cutlers, Smiths, and others. Some are free, as the Joiner's and Mason's: though he get by their labour as much as others pay him in money. For when the King requires twenty Masons for a work which is in haste, the Marmar Bashi who is their Chief, summons them together, and they that give most are excused. For when the King requires but twenty, he summons forty: and thus every man lives by his calling. The practice is the same with the Chief of the Joiner's, and all other Trades, who are Officers paid by the King, and never work unless they please themselves, commanding all that are under their Jurisdiction. As for Carpenters and Joiner's work, the Persians know little what belongs to it, which proceeds from the scarcity of Wood, that does not allow them materials to work upon. So that for Chairs, Tables and Bedsteads, there are no such things to be seen in Persia: the Joiner's business being only to make Doors and Frames for Windows, which they make very neatly of several pieces of wood joined together, so that a man can hardly put a Tennis Ball through the holes where they put the glass. Nor can it be expected that the Persians should work like other Europeans, having no other Tools than a Hatchet, a Saw, and a Chisel, and one sort of Plainer, which a Frenchman brought among them. Their nobler Arts are Writing, for Printers they know none. All their Books are written, which is the reason they so much esteem that Art. There was an Armenian who had set up a Printing-Press at Ispahan, and had Printed the Epistles of St. Paul, the seven Penitential Psalms, and was going about to Print the whole Bible, but not having the way of making good Ink, and to avoid the ill consequences of the Invention, he was forced to break his Press. For on the one side the Children refused to learn to write, pretending they wrote the Bible themselves, only to get it the sooner by heart: on the other side many persons were undone by it, that got their living by writing. The Persians use three sorts of hands, the first is called Nestalick, or the Set-hand: the second Shakeste or Divanni, which is their Court-hand: the third Neskre, or the Running-hand, very like the Arabic. They writ with small Indian Reeds; and say, that to write well, a man ought to lean so slightly upon his Pen, that should a fly stand upon the other end it would fall out of his hand. When they writ they hold their Paper in one hand to turn it according to the motion of the Pen, otherwise they could not make their dashes large and free, as the Character requires. They make their Paper of Cotton Fustian, very course, brown, and of no strength, for the least folding tears it. They sleek it with a sleek stone, and then rub it over to make it more sleek. Their Ink is made of Galls and Charcoal pounded together with Soot. The Persians reckon four Languages among 'em. The Persian called Belick, that is, sweet and pleasing. The Turkish, called Sciascet, or the Rodomontado Language. The Arabian, to which they give the Epithet of Feschish or Eloquent: and the fourth, called Cobahet, or the Speech of the Country people. The Persian in use among the Gentry is composed almost of all Arabic words: by reason that the Persian is very barren. But the Gibberish of the Country people is so corrupt that they in the City can hardly understand 'em. The Arabian is the Language of the Learned, in which tongue their Books are written. The Language of the Court is Turkish, but much more soft and elegant then at Constantinople. As for the Persian Language, it is spoken in the Courts of the Great Mogul, and the Kings of Golconda and Visapour, in all which Courts a Noble man would take it for an affront to be spoken to in the Indian Language. As for their Painters they only paint in miniature, and for Birds and Flowers they will draw them indifferently well: But for figures and stories they know not what belongs to any such thing. The Persians are most excellent Artists for manufactures of Gold, Silk and Silver, of which their rich Carpets and Tissues are made: nor do their Gold and Silver Manufactures ever grow black or lose their lustre by long wearing or lying by. There are abundance that work in Silk stuffs of all sorts, and others that make Bonnets and Girdles of Gold and Silk. Others there are whose business it is to fasten flowers of Gold and Silver to their Taffatas, with gum water, of which the women make Shifts and Drawers. And now they begin to make such large quantities of Taffatas, that they care not for the stuffs which are brought out of India, though they be much finer. They also make great quantities of Linen Cloth of all sorts of colours, upon which they fasten several flowers with gum water, and some figures, though the Law forbidden it. Which they learned to do upon the Armenians carrying out of Europe some ill-favoured cuts and pieces in distemper which they bought here without judgement: these pieces they hang before their doors, and those hollow places in the walls where they put their Quilts and Carpets when they rise. The Persians are excellent Artists at Damasquing with Vitriol, or engraving Damask-wise upon Swords, Knives, and the like. But the nature of the Steel which they make use of, very much contributes to their Art, in regard they cannot perform the same work neither upon their own nor ours. This steel is brought from Golconda, and is the only sort of steel which can be damasked. For when the workman puts it in the fire, he needs no more than to give it the redness of a Cherry, and instead of quenching it in the water as we do, to wrap it in a moist Linen cloth: for should he give it the same heat as to ours, it would grow so hard that when it came to be wrought it would break like glass. I speak this to undeceive those people who think our Scimitars and Cut-lasses are made of steel of Damascus, which is a vulgar error; there being no steel but that of Golconda that can be Damasked. The Persians are also excellent Artists at making Bows and Arrows, and such other weapons as are used in that Country. As for Bridles and Saddles their Artists far exceed ours, especially in their sowing, which they do so neatly and with so much art with a kind of backstitch, that it looks almost like an embroidery. There are an infinite number that live by dressing Seal-skins and Goatskins, the first to make boots for the Gentry and better sort of Merchants, the latter for the poor people. There is also a sort of earthen ware made at Kerman which is very fine, and being broken looks as white within as without. It does not endure hear so well as Porcelain, which has this quality, that if you pour never so hot liquor into a Porcelain cup, neither the foot nor the brims atop will be any thing the warmer. There are abundance of poor people that get their living by mending glass Tobacco-pipes, for when they are broken they join them together again with a certain mastic made of lime, and the white of an egg, then with a Diamond-pointed piercer they make holes in the glass, and bind the pieces together with a thin Latten-wire. The most considerable commodities of Persia are the Silks which come out of the Province of Guilan. But there is not so much transported out of- Persia as men imagine. For formerly great quantities of Velvets, Tissues and Taffatas were transported out of Persia into these parts: but now we make them better and cheaper in Europe. There is also a vast quantity of flat silk transported out of Persia into Turkey, Muscovy and Poland, which the women use in embroidery: for the Colours being lively, they embroider their shifts, hankerchers, vails, and other linen with it. The Seal-skins and Goatskins which are dressed in Persia are transported by the Hollander into India and Japan. Great quantities also of both are transported into Muscovy and Poland. The Ronas, that famous Root, of which I have already spoken, is transported over all India, where there is also a great vent of Persian fruits pickled in Vinegar, as also of their sweet waters. Their Pistaches grow in great abundance about Casbin; Almonds from the Territories of Yesd and Kerman, Raisins from several parts of the Kingdom, especially from Schiras: And their purgative Prunes, which they call Alonbacara, from the Frontiers that border upon Tartary. Great store of Quinces candied, and boxes of Marmalade made at Balsara, are thence transported into India, where they are bought up by the Mahometans and Portugueses. For the Banians will eat none, for fear they should by accident bury a fly in their stomaches. Great store of dried Fruits are brought out of the Country of the Medes, and transported to Tocat, to Diarbequir, Nineveh and Dagdat. Among the rest a sort of small Apricots, very pleasing to the taste, which being boiled in water make a pleasant syrup, and are the only diet for the sick in those parts. There are also great store of painted Calicuts made in Persia, which being course, are only worn and made use of by the poor, so that there is very little transported out of the Country, but what is carried into Turkey. The Persians also make a great deal of money of their cattle; and to begin with their Camels, they sell vast numbers of them into Armenia and Anatolia. But the Governors of the Provinces are very unwilling to part with them; which very much abates the trade. For the Turks very highly esteem the Persian Camels, as being stronger than their own. They also sell great store of Horses and Mules; but that trade is not so considerable, the chiefest part being only sent into India. As for their Sheep, 'tis a wonderful thing to see what prodigious numbers come out of the Province of the Medes and the Higher Armenia, and the Foreign Merchants come as far as Tauris and Hamadan to fetch them away. They drive them as far as Constantinople and Adrianople, and the greatest part of the Mutton which is spent in Anatolia and Romania comes out of Persia, which very much enriches Persia with ready money. But when Lamb is in season, as we travel with the Caravans, we meet at every turn with flocks after flocks, the least of which consists of a thousand Lambs: and in regard there are some of those Lambs that are weary, and lag behind, we buy them at a very cheap rate, the Shepherds that are not able to carry them, being glad to be rid of 'em. Formerly the Merchant Fuellers brought some Turquoises of the old rock out of Persia; but for these 15 years last passed there have been none found. The last time I was there I could only meet with three, which were but reasonable. As for those of the new rock, they are of no value, because they do not keep their colour, but turn green in a little time. CHAP. XIII. Of the Justice and Policy of the Persians. THe Justice of the Persians is very exact and very speedy. Suits are determined upon the place without any need of Advocates or Proctors. Not but that the Officers of Justice are easy to be corrupted, but in their unjust exactions, which they carry as secretly as possibly they can, they are sooner satisfied then the Turks: and if their injustice be discovered, upon complaint to the King they are punished without mercy. The Khan's do Justice in their Provinces, as representing the King's person. Besides that, the King has a Divan Begui in every City, and the Can places under him a Deroga, who is like the Lieutenant Criminal in France. He has under him an Aatas, who is a kind of Captain of the watch; who goes about the streets in the night to hinder disorders, and carries all people to Prison that he finds abroad at unseasonable hours, if they cannot give a good account of themselves. There is also a Kelonter, that is, the chiefest or greatest, who seems to resemble the Tribune of the People among the Romans, or the Provost of Merchants in France. The Kelonter is only responsible to the King, who places one in every City, and it is his business to defend the People from the injustice and oppressions of the Governors. Murder is severely punished, nor will money save the Criminal. When the Murderer is taken, they carry him before the Divan Begui, who makes quick work. For he delivers him to the Parents or kindred of the person slain, who carry him to the place of execution, and without any compassion torture him to death. I remember the Can of Schiras had a Favourite, who falling in love with a young Persian Gentleman, would needs endeavour to have the use of his body. One day meeting upon the Road together, and lying at night under the same Tent, the Favourite about midnight came to his bed side, and after many solicitations would have forced him. But being violently resisted, the Favourite for madness to see himself disappointed, and liable to be discovered, stabbed the young Gentleman to the heart, and fled to the Mountains. The Murder being divulged, the Mother, Widow and Sister of the young man repaired to the Can for Justice, who willing to save his Minion, offered them money: but they scorning his proffer, threatened to complain to the King. The Can being thereupon constrained to pursue his Favourite, at length took him and sent him to Ispahan, telling them that he would not judge of the Affair, but refer it to the King. The Mother, Widow and Sister immediately followed the Murderer to Ispahan; and demanded Justice of the King with that eagerness, that though the King had an inclination to have spared the Khan's Favourite for his Master's sake, he was forced to abandon him, and to bid them pay themselves with his blood. Immediately he was carried to the Meydan, where the Widow first stabbed him to the heart with a Dagger, than the Mother took her turn, and after the Sister; and then holding a Cup to receive his blood, drank every one a cup full to quench the thirst of their revenge. Nor are they so exact in the punishment of Murder only; for they punish disorders in houses of Debauchery with a proportionable strictness, of which I will give the Reader two examples. A young Hollander, coming to Ispahan, presently put himself into a Persian habit; and going in the evening to a house of good fellowship, met with certain Persians, with whom he happened to quarrel, and being well beaten for his pains, thought it not convenient to stay any longer where he had been so ill entertained. Thereupon the Dutch Interpreter went and complained to the Athemadoulet, who informed the King. The King immediately sent for the people that had beaten the Hollander, and asked them why they abused a stranger? To which the others made answer that they saw no stranger, but only a man clad after the Persian garb. Whereupon the King told the Interpreter, that if the Dutchman had worn his own Country habit, his Subjects durst not have abused him, but as the case stood, he had no reason to punish 'em. One day it happened that there was a great hubbub in one of those houses of debauchery, where the woman had prostituted her own Daughter. The King informed of it, commanded the Mother to be thrown headlong from a Tower: and that the Daughter should be torn a pieces by his dogs, which he keeps a purpose for such chastisements. Above all things there is an extraordinary care taken for the security of the Highways. For which purpose guards are set at convenient distances, who are ready to pursue upon the least noise of a Robbery, and who examine people whence they come and whither they go. If they answer not as they should, or trip in their Answers, they carry them before the next Governor. Those Radars are so posted over all Persia, that you need no more than send to the places where they keep station, to know what is become of any person that has committed a crime. For it is impossible to scape, all the Passes are so well guarded. If any one endeavours to travel through the Mountains or unfrequented roads, than the Radars who are in all places, seize such persons upon suspicion, for not taking the direct road. As the Caravan was one day setting out from Tauris for Ispahan, a poor fellow took an occasion to rob a Cloak-bag during the hurly-burly of packing up, and fled cross the fields not knowing his way: the Merchant missing his goods, complained to the Governor who having sought for him in vain, sent order to the Guards of the Highways, to make a strict examination, and to send the person to him so soon as they had seized him. In a short time the Thief was constrained to forsake his Cloak-bag and to come a thwart the fields for water. Who being examined by the Radars why he came alone by such a by way, and not knowing what to answer, was carried to the Governor. He was soon convicted and condemned to death, for Thiefs find no mercy in Persia. Only they are variously put to death. For sometimes they are tied to a Camel's tail by the feet, and their bellies ripped open. Sometimes they are buried alive all but their heads, and starved to death: in which torment they will sometimes desire a Passenger to cut off their heads; though it be a kindness forbidden by the Law. But the most cruel punishment of all, is when they set the Thief a Horseback, with his extended Arms fastened to a long stick behind: then larding him with lighted Candles, they suffer the Candles to burn into his very bowels. Another and I met two in this misery, who desired us to hasten their deaths, which we durst not do, only we gave them a Pipe of Tobacco according to their desire. As for those that steal in Cities, they tie them by the heels to the tail of a Camel, and rip up their bellies: and then as the Camel drags the poor creature along the streets while one goes before him crying, The King has punished him for such a crime. If yet he be not dead, they hang him upon the next tree. The Radars have little wages, which makes them use their Rhetoric to get what honestly they can out of the Travellers, to whom they tell long stories of their care for the security of the highways. If it happen that a Merchant be robbed, the Governor of the Province is to make good to the Merchant whatever he has lost, according as he shall make out by his Oath or his Book. Nor dare the Governors deny satisfaction, fearing a complaint at Ispahan. I myself was robbed of two Bales of goods, between Lar and Schiras, to the value of 1400 Piastres, but upon complaint to the Governor upon my own oath and showing him my Book, he paid me all my loss in gold, and gave me a present in wine besides. The Posts or Shappars are those that carry the King's dispatches to the Governors of Provinces. When they are sent any whither, the King's Esquire finds them a Horse, and a man that runs to the end of the Stage, to bring him back again. If these Curriers meet a Horseman upon the road, they have power to dismount him, if their own be not so good, or be tired: and the Horseman must either run after his Horse, or send some body to the end of the Stage. Sometimes these Curriers abusing their power, within a quarter of an hour after they have changed their Horse, if they meet another better mounted, they will take away his Horse too. Nor dares the Horseman resist, though he be never so much too strong; for there is no pardon for them that lay so much as a finger upon one of these Shappars; at other times they will pretend to take away a man's Horse only to get money. But they are forbid to deal so by the Franks; and I have passed by them, when they have said nothing to me. Their Government in relation to Belly-timber is the best in the world. For there is a Mohteseb, who is the chief of the Government, whose business it is to set a rate upon all sorts of Provision, being assisted by three or four more Assessors. Every first day of the week there is a public Proclamation of tax upon the weight of every thing. Which Assessors in the evening advise together against the next day whether to raise or abate the price before set. This order was established by the great Shakstone Abbas, and was in his reign more punctually observed than it has been since. By the by observe, that all provisions of belly-timber are sold by weight and not by measure: so that you may send a Child to Market; for if the Commodity be not weight, 'tis well if the buyer be satisfied with having his money again. For if the seller be discovered to sell by false weights, they are led about the streets with a Taktekolas, or a Bonnet like a Beehive upon their heads, and a Bell about their necks to expose'em first to the laughter of the people: after that they are fined, and receive so many drubs upon the soles of their feet. If this good order were not observed in Persia, the poor would suffer very much. For the handicraft tradesmen that work all day in shops remote from their houses, where their wives are continually shut up, eat nothing at noon but a little fruit in season: and then in the evening when they leave work, they go to the Market and buy for their Families boiled or roast meat, of which there is great plenty. Therefore are they so exact, lest so many poor labouring men should be deceived. One day a Baker of the City came to the Can, complaining that the Judge of the Government had set too low a price upon bread, so that he should be a great loser. To whom the Can made answer, that'twas not his business to alter the price: bidding him go to the Magistrate that was concerned. But the Baker believing the Can could do any thing, sent him a present of fifty Tomans. The Can seeing the ill design of the Baker to oppress the poor people, and the ill opinion he had of him as a seller of Justice, commanded him to be carried to the Piazza, and there to be drubbed upon the soles of his feet till he paid the other fifty Tomans, which the Can forthwith distributed to the poor, and caused the price of bread to be abated instead of raising it. CHAP. XIV. Of the Manners and Customs of the Persians. THe Manners and Customs of the people are usually correspondent to their Religion. The Persians never preserve the name of their Predecessors, but like the Jews, for distinction sake, say, such a one, the Son of such a one. When they Circumcise a Child and give him a Name, they writ three or four Names like Lots in Paper, which are drawn by a Child, and which the Child draws, that is the Name of the Child. The women that are barren, swallow that which is cut from the Child, believing it will make them conceive. The Persians are generally very inquisitive after the time to come, consulting their Astrologers like Oracles: The King has always two or three by him, to tell him the good or bad hour. There is an Almanac which is sold every year in Persia, which they call Tacuim; but is indeed an Ephemerideses, containing the Longitudes and Latitudes of the Planets, the Conjunctions and Oppositions; and other such things. This Tacuim is full of predictions about Wars, Sicknesses and Famin. It sets the proper seasons to put on new clothes, to let blood, to Purge, or travel, with many other instructions of the same nature. They give great credit to this Tacuim, and they that can get one, govern themselves in all things according to the Rules there set down. Others to know the success of their affairs, go to a Doctor of the Law, and desire him to open the Alcouran, and to tell them the issue of their business. Thereupon the Doctor muttering some strange words, Alcouran is the Book of the Law, so entitled for its excellency, as we say, the Bible. opens the Book, and if he meets with affirmative commands, he declares the undertaking shall prosper. If negatives, he dissuades from the enterprise. I remember a Gardener belonging to the Capuchin Friars, would needs go to one of those Moullahs, to know whether he should get by an Ox that he was about to buy. Whereupon the Moullah assured him he should reap great profit by his bargain: but quite contrary, the Ox died upon his hands within three days, to the great astonishment of the Gardener. When a Capuchin taxed the Moullah for the falsities of his pretended Art, the Moullah replied, that God knew that the Gardener would spend his Money upon lewd Women, and therefore took from him the means and support of his debauchery. They also use a sort of divination, which is called Rambé, by even or odd, the Masters of which mystery, called Rammals, keep Shops on purpose to delude the people. When they see people coming, they have persons suborned on purpose; who holding out their hands shut, ask the Rammal what he thinks they have in their hands. The Rammal at first seems to be at a stand; throwing certain Dice, called Kiabetain, the specks whereof are some even, some uneven; but when there are people enough gathered together, he tells point by point how many specks his fellow-Cheat has in his hands. Who counterfeiting astonishment, encourages the poor silly creatures that stand gazing, to spend something for a lie which they sell them. They also make use of the Faal; which is to open a Book, & by numbers even or odd, to prognosticate good or bad fortune. In their interpretation of dreams, the Interpreter foretells the future to him that inquires conformable to what he says he saw in his dream. He has a great Book lying before him, full of little Pictures and Grotesque-work, wherein he strives to show the people some Phantasm or Apparition, which they will tell you they saw in the night. These cheers are usually practised about the Palace, where all the idle people flock together; as also upon the Road to Zulpha, where they lie upon the Road to catch the silly Passengers. The Persians are mightily addicted to ill language, and foul-mouthed reproaches. So that when two men fall out, instead of fight with their fists, they fight with their tongues, and curse one another. But they never blaspheme God: for if they should hear one swear, or wish themselves at the Devil, they would cry out in an astonishment, Is not that Fellow a fool to give himself upon trust to the Devil, and renounce Paradise? When they would affirm any thing to be true, all their Oaths are Ser-azire-sha, By the King's beloved head; or, Erva pigumbir, by the Spirit of the Prophet. I remember once at Galata, walking with some of the French Embassador's Servants, we saw two Turks: at Cuffs; after they were parted, one of them gave the other a thousand curses; to which, the other replied no more than only this; I wish, said he, thy Soul may have no more repose in Paradise, than the Hat of a Frenchman has in this World, alluding to out manner of salutation, and putting off our Hats so often as we do. The Persians are naturally great Dissemblers and Flatterers; and they make so their study to acquire esteem and applause. They love to give and receive Presents: more especially to present the King. Which Presents are valued, and according to the estimate, they must send ten per cent. to the Sergeant Porter, and five per cent. to his Deputy: which, if they do not pay willingly, they are fotced to pay: which I saw the Deputy of the Holland-Company forced to do. The Luxury and the Expenses of the Persians is excessive, as I have in several places observed. And though it be against the Law of Mahomet to make use of Gold or Silver-plate, which sets aside that metal only for Commerce and for Money; none but the poor observe that Law, for the rich make no scruple to transgress it. The Persians are very much accustomed to make mutual Visits one to another at their solemn Festivals, and to wish one another good cheer, and a merry season. The more noble sort stay at home to expect the Visits of their Inferiors, after that they get a Horseback, and return their Visits. The Courtesans continue their Visits all the year long, and going to the Nobleman's Houses, stay in the great Hall till they come out of their Harams. Whither, when the Noblemen come, they lay their hands upon their stomaches, and bow, which is their manner of saluting the Company that tarries for them. After some few Compliments, they get a Horseback, attended by all their Visitants, who accompany them to the King's House, in expectation of some kindness, by virtue of their favour. The favours which the King usually does to such people, is to send them to the Governors of Provinces with a Hawk or a Calaat, with order that the said Governors remember the Sergeant Porter. The Can being advertized that the Calaat is coming, he rides forth of the City to meet it, attended by all his principal Officers, the chief of the City, and the greatest part of the Inhabitants. The Jugglers also must give their attendance, together with the Drums and Trumpets, and all the Music-makers. They rendezvouz usually in a Garden one or two leagues from the City, where the King's Messenger stays with the Calaat. So soon as the Governor perceives him, he makes a low obeisance, and a Prayer for the King; giving God thanks for that the King is pleased to preserve him in his memory: then he puts on the Calaat, which is according to the quality of the Governor: sometimes the Robe alone; sometimes Robe and Cloak: sometimes Robe, Cloak, Girdle, and Bonnet; to which, if he be a Grandee, are added the Scimitar and Dagger: which method is also observed toward Ambassadors. When the Can has put on the Calaat, he returns to the City with all his Retinue, goes to the King's House; (for the King has a House in every City,) kisses the Columns of the Gate, and makes certain other Prayers for the prosperity of the King: At length he rides home, where he makes a great Feast, showing the Calaat to all persons that come to him, who by way of compliment cry Moubarek-bashet, that is, may it be blest, and prove a good omen. The Persians are not much addicted to play: for besides, that the Law forbids it; the Meshaldar-Bashi has a power to fine and punish Gamesters, as I have said already. For which reason he has spies, to which the meaner sort of people dare not refuse entrance into their Houses: but the richer sort laugh at 'em; and will give 'em nothing. Among the Persian Games, there is one game at Cards which the Persians call Gengesé. We have but four distinct marks upon ours, but they have eight. They also play at a kind of Chess, and at Trictrac; which two Games are most in use. The Shopkeepers play in the Streets with little Marble-bowls, not much unlike our children's Bowling-stones. But as for Bowling-greens, or Tennis-Courts, they know not what they mean. Neither the Persians nor any of the Eastern People accustom themselves to walk as we do. And therefore when they see us walking to and fro together in a Garden-Ally for two or three hours together, they are amazed. They only spread a Carpet in the fairest place of the Garden, and set themselves down to contemplate the verdure of the place: and if they rise, 'tis only to pull the fruit from the trees. For they love to eat what they gather themselves, never caring for what others have handled. The Men never dance, only the Women of Pleasure, which are always sent for to their Feasts; where they dance open-faced, and show a thousand postures to divertise the Company. Their jugglers are every jot as good as ours; but whereas ours make use of Balls, they show their tricks with large Hen-eggs. Their Dancers upon the Ropes far exceed ours. I have seen some of them that have tied a Rope to the top of a high Tower, and fastened the other to the ground, and then walking up to the top with their counterpoises in their hands, have laid themselves upon the Rope upon their backs, and have slid to the bottom with a swiftness like lightning. The Persians are altogether as superstitious as the Turks. Before they say their Prayers they are obliged to wash: every one having a Reservatory for water in his own House, which is always full of water. They plunge their heads in the water, wash their mouths, rub their foreheads; and if a man shows them any nastiness in the Vessel, there's water enough, they cry, for purification; though, if it be Pond-water, it must be four or five foot deep. But if it be Running-water, the least quantity in the World serves to purify 'em, and render 'em fit to pray: while they ground their beliefupon this maxim of the Law of Mahomet, that if it should run through Pishkill, or Camels-dung, it would be sufficient for purification. There is one sort of washing appointed by their Law, which is, to go to their Baths after they have been with their Wives; and there are some so superstitious as to go there every day. These Baths are round Chambers, so close, that there is no light but what comes from little round windows made in the top of the roof. In the first place, there is the Krasiné, which is a Chamber seven or eight foot square; where, in the middle of the Room, is a great Copperplate, in the form of a flat Basin, and underneath they make a fire of Brushes or Horse-dung: so that the Plate heats all the water which is in the Chamber: When it is hot enough, a servant belonging to the Bath goes up to the Terras, and winds a horn, to give notice to them that have a mind to come. Should a Persian or a Mahometan miss once in eight days, he would feel an itching all over his body not to be endured. For the pores, which the heat of the Bath had opened, coming to be shut, the vapours of the body not able to get out, prick and tickle the skin. The Men go early in the morning, and stay till two hours after Sunrising: At the entry of the Bath is the place where they undress; and when they are stripped all but the secret parts, which they cover with a napkin, they pour hot water upon their shoulders; and then comes a man and rubs off all the sweat and filth of the Body with a corpse Cloth; after which they plunge themselves into a Reservatory of hot water, which they call Kolletain. But these common Baths are very dangerous, and many people of both Sexes have got the fowl Disease, who were never addicted to impurity. There are also in Persia hired people, which they call Saka's, whose business it is to give water to the people as they go along the Streets. Their Barbers are very neat, and surpass ours for lightness of hand; for a man can hardly feel their Razors. They have also a Knife to pair the nails of the hands and feet, which they do very dextrously. As for their Beards, those that belong to the Law cut it with Scissors, but they leave it not so long as the Turks do, by much. But the Courtiers and Soldiers shave all off, except from their upper-lips, where they take it for a mark of great honour to wear long Moustaches, which they say is the ornament of the face. The habit of the Persians is a Robe which they call Cabaye, that comes down a little below their knees. This is of very fine quilted Cloth, well cottoned in the Winter, but much thinner in the Summer .. These Linens would be very cheap, but that the Persons of Quality change their Robes every day. Their Sleeves are long, and close to their arms, and reaching as far as the wrist. The Robe is fit to their Bodies as far as the Waste; but than it is made wide and lose. Over this they wear a noble Girdle of Silk, adorned at the end with flowers of Gold, over which they were another Girdle of fine Kerman-wool. The richer sort are so vain as to wear three Girdles, two of Silk, and one of Kerman-wool, which is tied uppermost. Under the Robe or Vest they wear a short Waistcoat of flowered Fustian quilted, their Shirts being of Silk of divers colours. They use as little Soap in Persia as they can; for Soap is very rare in Persia. When we come out of the Indies, we are forced to bring with us Linen enough to serve us for six months, and then to carry it back again; for they wash much better in India then in Persia. Their breeches being of Silk, come down to their Ankles, without any codpieces. Their Sesse, or Bonnet, which we call a Turban, is made of a piece of fine Silk mingled with Gold, being in form much like our large Pompions: the top thereof is a little flat; and here it is that the end of the Silk being garnished with flowers of Gold and Silver, ends in a kind of Posy. These Bonnets are very heavy, especially those that are for the most part nothing but Gold and Silver. The meanest of those is worth 200 Crowns; but there are some which the King and the great Lords wear, that are worth four or five hundred. You shall seldom meet an Officer of any Quality that does not wear a rich Jewel in his Bonnet. The Courtiers and Soldiery wear their Daggers upon their stomaches, stuck in their girdles. The meanest Soldier inlays the handle and sheath of his Dagger; but the Grandees have them all beset with Pearls. There was in the handle of Sha-Abbas the Second Dagger, a Diamond of above sixty Carats, which, with some other Stones that belonged to it, was valued at 13000 Tomans, or 200000 Crowns. Over their Vest they wear a Justicoar, much like ours. It is fastened at the top with a button: and most usually they have nine tufted buttons before set by three and three at an equal distance: but they only serve for ornament. This Justicoar is either of Cloth, or Tissue; which in Winter is lined with Martin's, or else with a grey Lambskin that comes from Korasan. And indeed the Persians love diversity of colours in their habits: for their Justicoar is of one colour, their Vest of another, their Breeches of another; and their Shoes, especially the women's are green, red, yellow, or violet. The Girdle and Turban are always of stripped Stuff, unless it be the Moullahs, which are always plain. Besides all this, in the Winter they wear a long Cloak down to their heels, with sleeves of the same length, lined with rich Furs. The Persons of Quality, and some of the meaner sort of people make no more of Cloth of Gold and Siver, than we do of Druggets. A man that has but seven or eight Tomans a year, shall spend five in Clothes; which excess in habit is crept down among the Rabble, so that a man can hardly tell the Servant from the Master. And it is a Proverb among the Persians, Corbebé Lebas, fine Clothes make Men esteemed at Court. Neither Sha-Abbas the Second, nor his Grandfather Sha-Abbas the First, would allow of this disorder, but that Men should go clad according to their conditions. For one day seeing one of his Servants with a pair of Cloth of Gold-breeches, demanded what wages he had? but when he understood that it was nothing near sufficient to maintain him at that rate; to deter others from the like vanity, he ordered him so many Bastinadoes upon the soles of his feet, that he died in a few days. Others say that the Fellow being surprised at the King's Question, made him answer, that being troubled with the Gout, he had been advised to wear that sort of Stuff for its warmth. To which the King replied, that he had been told a very bad remedy, and that he would show him a better and a shorter way to cure the Gout, and so commanded him to be drubbed, as before is related. In regard it is very cold in Persia, they make use of three sorts of Furs. The Lamb and Fox's skin for the meaner sort, together with the Cat's and Fox's skin. But the third sort, which is the Martin's Fur, is for Grandees of the Court, and other Persons of high Quality. They have also a way to make Callocks that will keep out the rain, the wind, and the cold, which are made of Kerman-wool, as our Feltmakers make their Hats. And now I have said 'tis cold, give me leave to tell ye how they warm themselves. In all Houses there are little Chambers, in the middle whereof there is a square hole about a foot deep, and three or four foot long, according to the bigness of the Chamber. Over the hole is a thing like one of our Tabourets, which covers the hole with a large Carpet, to keep in the heat of that which is kindled in the hole; so that being placed under the Tabouret as far as the waist, though as cold as ice before, in a minute you shall be almost in a sweat, and be ready to fall a-sleep, if you take not a great care. All the Nobility have Chambers with Chimneys, where they set the Wood upright; the Mantletree comes forward, low, and semicircular. It is two or three foot deep, and as many wide, to avoid smoking. They are full of their Compliments, which they call Travezea: and their manner of salutation is quite different from ours. For they never uncover their heads, but bow, and lay their right-hand upon their breasts. When they come into the company of their Betters, they fall upon their knees to set themselves upon their heels, which is a mark of respect. The Women in Persia are very richly habited; but their habit is all of a piece, though little different in shape from the Mens. It is open before, and comes not down below the calf of the leg. Their Girdle is not tied fast, but hangs carelessly: their Sleeves are also close to their arms, and reach to their wrists. Upon their heads they wear a little Bonnet raised like a little spire, and adorned with precious Stones, according to their Quality; from which Bonnet falls a veil behind, which is very graceful. They wear Breeches like the men, and their Shoes are almost like theirs. The Women of Ormus wear only a single pair of Breeches with a shift over them. The Armenian Women wear besides, a little Justicoar without sleeves, and upon their heads, a fine Linen-coif tied under their chins. Their hair is gathered into a long tress, to which they sometimes add more, which is false, to make a long lock that is done up in a Velvet or Satin-case embroidered, and hangs behind down to the waist. Handsome Women are very plentiful in Persia, as well the tawny as the white. For the Merchants that bring both from all parts, choose the handsomest they can pick out. The white Women are brought from Muscovia, Poland, Cirassia, Mengrelia, Georgia, and the Frontiers of Tartary. The black from the coast of Melinda, and the Red-Sea. The Persian Women are seen by none but their own Husbands. They are very idle in their Houses, not so much as looking after any thing of Housewifery. Indeed every thing is at the Husband's disposal, so that the Women are rather Slaves than Wives. They spend their time in taking Tobacco, after several fashions. When they go to the Baths, she's the Woman that wears the best Clothes, and brings the best Collation. They that have Slaves, cause 'em to rub their arms, their legs, and their thighs, till they fall asleep; having no other divertisement in their voluptuous Prison. The higher a-man is in dignity, the more he glories in having a great number of Wives and Slaves; and his absolute power keeps them in order either willingly, or by constraint. There are two sorts of Eunuches for the guard of the Sultanesses and the Wives of the Nobility: Some are white, but they never come near the Women, but are ordered to guard the first doors of the Haram. The others are black, frightful to look upon, and flat-nosed; who attend only upon the Women. If there be a necessity for a Woman of Quality to go abroad, the Eunuches go before and behind with Battoons in their hands, to make the Corrouk, and drive all the people out of the way. When the King goes into the Country if any one be asleep in the highway, and be perceived before he wakens, he is immediately cut to pieces as he lies. In the time of Sha-Abbas the Second, one of the Fellows that helped to set up the women's Tents, being weary, fell asleep in one of them upon the ground. When the Women came, they, seeing a man asleep, set up a shrieking; upon which, the Eunuches coming in, wrapped up the Fellow in the Carpet as he lay, and carrying him into the Fields, buried him alive, Carpet and all. CHAP. XV. Of the Diseases of Persia, and the manner of curing them THE Persian Children are seldom sick of the small-Pox, but in lieu of that, they are very subject to Scald-pates, till ten or twelve years old. Which, it may be, proceeds from their shaving so young, and so often: for they shave at five or six months old, and two or three times a week. As to the Pox, the Persians would be more troubled with it, but that the dry Air of the Country is an enemy to it: besides, they never lie twice with the fame Woman, without going to the Bath to sweat out the venom of that distemper. As for the Gout or Gravel, the Persians know not what it means: But the Armenians are troubled with the latter, especially those that in their youth accustomed themselves to drink more Wine than Water. To those that are troubled with the Colic, they usually prescribe the eating of Horseflesh; and I have seen many cured by that means. Generally the Persians, especially the rich, or those that have wherewithal to live handsomely, are much less subject to Sickness then the people of Europe. Some take the reason to be, because of their China-drink, which they drink every Spring, boiling an ounce in three pints of water, and so continuing the Dose for ten or twelve days one after the other: all which time they keep a very moderate diet, and eat no fruit for a month together. This drink causes the Patient to sweat; and the sweat being wiped off, dies the Linen, nay the very walls of the Chamber of a yellow colour. As for any method of Physic, they have none in Persia. For the Dysentery, they take sour Curdled-milk, with Rice unbruised boiled in water, to which they add a little Rhubarb powdered. At the beginning of a Disease they forbidden Bread, and instead thereof prescribe Rice boiled in Hen-broth, or sometimes in fair water. For diet is the chief Remedy which the Physicians prescribe in all Diseases, and account most sovereign. Indeed the remedy is well prescribed in many distempers; however it is by them never prescribed according to reason or method, but only according to custom; whereby it often comes to pass that they forbidden that which is good, and prescribe that which is bad. If the Patient be so poor as not to be able to send for a Physician, two or three men set him upon an Ass, with a Scarf about his neck, which denotes him to be a sick person, and so lead him to the Physician; who presently seels his Pulse, lets him Blood, and by and by taking his Pen in his hand, in a small piece of Paper prescribes more Hogwash at one stroke, than three men's bells are able to contain. When a Physician is called to a Consultation, he pretends not to take any Money: But his Atar or Apothecary finds a way to have the Doctor satisfied for his pains. They never permit the Sick to change their Linen, how nasty soever it be. When they come home to the Patient, though they find him ready to expire, they tell the Servants that he will certainly recover; but then, on the other side, they go to the Parents or Kindred of the Patient, and tell them that the Patient is in a desperate condition, and cannot live. By this means they save their credit; for happen what will, they have told truth either of the one side, or the other. CHAP. XVI. Of the division of Time among the Persians. THE Persians divide the natural day into four parts. The first is from Sunrising to Noon; the Second from Noon to Sunset: The third from Sunset till Midnight; and the fourth from Midnight till Sun-rise. At Midnight, Morning, and Sunset, they make a most horrible din in every great City, of Kettledrums, Hautbois, Latten-Basons, and other Instruments: upon which there are certain men hired to play for a quarter of an hour together, in some place where they may be heard all over the City. They have also great Cornets, about seven foot long, with deep mouths, which may be heard above half a league. But these Cornets are never used but in Cities where the Khans or Governors reside. These Instruments are also always employed at their great Solemnities; as also when the King creates any new Officer or Governor. These Instruments have also a privilege to play at all Houses where they understand there is a Male-child born. The meaner sort dare not refuse 'em; but the Nobility value not their privilege of a straw. The Persians in the computation of time make use of Lunar-months. The first Mouharrem, the second Cepher, the third Rebia-el-Avel, the fourth Akner, the fifth Gemadil-Avel, the sixth Gemadil-Akner, the seventh Regeb, the eighth Shaabon, the ninth Ramezan, the tenth Shaval, the eleventh Zikadé, the twelfth Zilhagge. And every Month gins from the first appearance of the Crescent. In their Astronomical Accounts, and the Calculations of the Longitude and Latitude of the Planets, for the composing their Almanacs, they make use of Solar-months, thus called: Azar 31 days. Onzon 30 days. Ajar 31. Harizon 30. Temouzé 31. Ab 31. Eiloul 30. Techrion-el-Avel 31. Techrion-el-ilani 30. Ranon-el-Avel 31. Kanon-Elsani 31. Shaabat 28 or 29, answering to our February. The first month Azar gins upon our eleventh of March: so that it answered to our month of March before the Gregorian Reformation. Therefore they call this month Mah-Roami, or the Roman months. They also make use of the Egyptian months, which are thus called: Terverdin, Erdi-be-hoct, Kourdad, Tir, Mordad, Sheriver, Mohré, Abon, Azer, Dei, Bahmen, Espendarmouzé,. The first month, Ferverdin; gins with the Vernal Equinox, every month not containing above 30 days, adding the five which remain to the end of the year, which they call Kramsi Mousterelzé. The day of the Vernal Equinox is the first day of the year, which they call Neozonze, and is one of their Principal Festivals. For that day all the Grandees appear at Court, and present the King according to their quality. If they can meet with nothing that is rare, they present him in Ducats of Gold, and there are some that present him to the number of ten Thousand. They also give God thanks for preserving them to see the new year, and for preserving the fruits of the Earth from bad seasons, for the Corn is by that time well come up. Upon this first day of the year, if a Persian has not money to buy him a new habit, he will go and mortgage his own body to have one. So proud and luxurious are the Persians from the highest to the lowest. CHAP. XVII. Of the Feasts and ordinary Diet of the Persians. THE Persians are nothing eager after delicacies or dainties; both the nobler and the meaner sort being very temperate in diet. In regard that wood is so scarce and dear about Ispahan, they never eat boiled meat above once a day: and as for their Dinner which they call Shate, it consists of bread, cheese-curds, milk, burnt wine, melons and other fruits in season, to which the rich add wet and dry sweetmeats: At night their usual food is Pilaw and roast meat. They buy their Provision from hand to mouth, especially the Mahometans, which is a double charge. But for the Armenians, they live thriftily, and buy at once a good quantity of provisions to last for so long time. Muttons, Kids, Pullet's and Pigeons, are the usual diet of the Persians; for as for Beef they very rarely eat it. The King and the great Lords will eat a piece of a Hare sometimes when they have been a hunting: but when they have killed a wild Boar, they send it always to some Christian, in expectation to be presented for the honour done him. They have no diversity of Victuals or made Dishes in Persia, their diet being more proper to satisfy hunger, then to please a nice palate. Mutton and Lamb would be very good in Persia, if they knew how to roast it our way. But the Persians roast only at an oven, which is a hole made in the ground two foot and a half broad, and five or six foot deep. They burn nothing but bushes, and a kind of Turf mixed with the dung of cattle, and dried in the Sun. There are several roasting Cooks at Ispahan, that roast a whole Sheep at a time, where he that comes to buy may have as much cut out as he pleases. Other Cooks shops are only for boiled meat or rice: their fruits which they pickle up in Vinegar being the only sauce which they have. As for their Bread it is very white, for they have wheat enough to furnish the whole Kingdom. They bake every day, making up their Dow in the form of a thin Cake, strowed over with Sesamum. They bake these Cakes in their Ovens in the ground, covering the batch over with little round flint stones, that are quickly hot and retain the heat. At Ispahan they make a great fire in an earthen pot, and when it is hot they spread the Dow against the sides of the pot. The Armenians make a sort of bread as thin as Paper, which they bake upon a thin Iron plate which is as thin as paper. Their Plate and Dishes are of red Copper tinned within side. For they are forbid to make use of Silver by the Law of Mahomet. Nor does the King use any other then Gold Plate, of which he has great store. They have also a sort of Porcelain made at Kerman. To eat their broths they make use of wooden spoons: for as for their rice, which is thick, they take it up in their fingers, and wipe their hands upon their handkerchiefs. The first thing set upon the Table is the Pipe, the Tobacco, and the dish of Coffee; and indeed thus it is that they begin all their debauches. They suck and smoke of their Tobacco through water in a long glass bottle, by which means it comes cool into their mouths: else they would never be able to take it all day long as they do. They sing very little in their Cups: but they recite a vast number of wicked Verses, which they rehearse with a great deal of gravity. They are so accustomed to take Tobacco, both men and women, that a poor tradesman that has not above five Sous to spend, will lay out three of them in Tobacco. If they had none, they say they should not have damaque, that is, gladness in their hearts. Many will confess that their excessive taking Tobacco is hurtful; but if you tell 'em of it, they answer in a word, Adedchoud, 'Tis the custom. Besides their Tobacco they have also Opium made of Poppies, cut as they grow, out of which they draw the juice and make it into Pills. They take no more at first then the head of a pin, increasing their dose by degrees, till they come to take the quantity of half a walnut. When they are come to that pitch they dare not give over, for fear of endangering their lives, or addicting themselves to drink wine. In their youth you shall see these Theriakis or takers of Opium, with pale pensive and dejected countenances, and the use of their speech almost lost: If they omit to take for a day together this ill-continued drug that heats their brains, and causes them to act ridiculously and to talk idly, when it has done working, they are as cold and stupid as before, which obliges 'em to take it again. For this reason they are short lived: or if they do live till forty, they complain heavily of the pains that proceed from the cold venom of the herb. They that have a mind to kill themselves, swallow a large piece, and drink Vinegar after it, to prevent the relief of any other Counterpoy on, and so they die smiling. They have another sort of drink to make themselves merry, which they call Kokomaar, composed of boiled Poppy seed. They take it in broth, and there are particular houses called Kokomaars Krone, where people meet to divertise those that see the ridiculous postures which that intoxicating drink causes them to show. Before it works they quarrel with one another, and call one another all to naught; but never fight. When the drug gins to work, they grow friends; and some are for making compliments, others for telling a long tedious story, which renders them very vain. They have also another sort of liquor, which is called Bongue, very bitter, being made of the leaves of Hemp and some other drug mixed with it. It makes those that use it shamefully foolish and ridiculous, which is the reason the Law has forbid that and not the former. The Usbecks' have brought into Persia, the Custom of taking in Pipes Tchouherse, which is the flower or rather the woolly substance which is found in hemp-closes. This fills the head with strange conceits, sometimes pleasant and sometimes furious; those that take it being quite besides their senses for two or three hours. Their Feasts are thus ordered: The guests come in the morning to the house whither they are invited, and all the day long they spend their time in taking Tobacco and telling stories. Between whiles they have Sweetmeats, Coffee, and Fruits set before them. In the evening the Sofra is spread, and the table served with boiled and roast. If the person that treats be of any quality, he has a kind of a Governor of his house, that sits upon his heels with a Ladle or great wooden spoon in his hand. Then the Inviter makes his compliments to the chief of his guests, assuring him that the entertainment is only provided for him, only at his command he is ready to let the rest share with him. The Compliments being thus passed, the Governor of the House with his great Spoon puts rice and meat upon the little plates, which the servants present by equal portions to every one of the guests. Then they fall too, taking out the rice by handfuls, and the meat with their fingers. Sometimes they mix curdled milk with their rice and meat, and making up a lump of all together as big as a Tennis ball, put it all in their mouths at a time, which is the reason they never sit long at Table; one making room for another till they have all done: for as soon as one has done, another comes into his place without any farther Ceremony. They have several Liquors in the room in Porcelain Vessels, but at meals they only drink to drive down their meat and to prevent thirst. When all is done, they bring a Basin with an Ewer full of hot water to wash their hands and faces. After which the Inviter compliments his guests, and every one returns home; at which time the servants are very diligent to bring every man his shoes, in hopes of some little piece of silver. The Armenians entertain their friends in the same manner; only that they begin their Feasts with a cup of strong water, and some sweetmeats, after which they give a couple of hard Eggs to every one of the guests. The Persians also have soon done, but the Armenians eat swift, and a long time without drinking, which they never do till the end of the meal. After they have given thanks and taken away the cloth, than they fall to drinking to excess. He that gives the entertainment never thinks he has done well, till his guests are not able to find the way out of the room, and the more they tumble about the room, the less he thinks he has spent his money in vain. To conclude, the Persian's are very Gentile, and afford their victuals with a freewill to all that will come and eat with them at Supper time: admiring at the custom of the Franks, who shut their doors when they sit down to their meals. CHAP. XVIII. Of the Marriages of the Persians. THe Persians betrothe their Children very young, that is at nine or ten years; but among the Armenians there are some married and lie together at five or six. The Law of Mahomet allows them but four lawful Wives, whom they call Nekha. But there are others whom they call Amoutha or hired women, and of whom they may have as many as they can keep, and for so long time as they please, which is ratified by the allowance of the Judg. They may also enjoy the Slaves whom they purchase. The Children both of the one and the other are accounted lawful, and inherit all alike, without the distinction of Elder or Younger; but two Daughters can have but the share of one boy. When the woman's time that was hired is out, the man dismisses her, and she is obliged to stay forty days before she engage again, that it may appear whither she be with Child or no. The man gives to the woman that he marries a Dowry assigned upon his Estate, and sends her money and silks to make her clothes. The maid also sends something to him, but very little, and all by the interposition and intercourse of the women. For the two parties never see one another. Upon the wedding day, they send to the Bridegroom's house, by the sound of Drums and Trumpets, certain Horses and Men laden with the Bride's goods, which is many times done out of vainglory, and more for show then substance. The Bridegroom is led a foot, attended by several women with Tapers in their hands, and a noise of Drums and other Instruments marching before them. Being come to the door of the Bridegroom's House, if he have promised a larger Dowry to the woman than he is able or willing to give, he keeps his door shut. The Parents of the Maid knock, and he declares he will not have her at that price. But at length after some contests on both sides they agree, and the Virgin enters with her Mother and all her Kindred. Then the Moullah reads the conditions of Marriage; which being done, the women retire into the inner part of the House, the men feasting by themselves, and the women by themselves. This is all that is done upon the Wedding-day, but the following days are not always so pleasing, and it often follows that both parties do not agree, or that the husband misuses his wife. Then the woman that requires separation, requires the Dowry promised her by her husband: which the man ofttimes refuses and if she persists in her demand, is many times so severely used by him, that she is constrained to cry, I'th' Devil's name let me go, I demand nothing of thee. Then they both repair to the Casi, or Cheit-Lesloon, who is a Doctor of the Law, and in his presence they discharge one another. This they may do by their Law three times. After that, the same woman can never return to her Husband again. The Children derive their Nobility from the Father, whither he be born of a Slave, or an Amoutha, or a Legitimate wife. The Nobility of the Persians which is called Negabet, is founded upon their being descended from Mahomet. They who claim that extraction, have the title of Mirabel or Prince: and their Daughters carry the appellation of Mirza or Princess. They are very numerous and very poor. But the title of Mirabel without a good Estate or high Employment signifies little or nothing. CHAP. XIX. Of the Death and Burials of the Persians. 'TIs the Custom among the Persians, that when the Patient lies very dangerously ill, they light several fires upon the Terrace of the House, to give the People notice to pray for him. So soon as the breath is out of his body, the whole house rings with cries and lamentations, especially of the women who tear their hair, and show such antic postures, that a man would think them possessed. In the midst of their tears they make long repetitions of the worthy actions of the deceased, and every foot they set up a yelling. Then they go and advertise the Casi, that such a one is dead, to whom the Casi answers Sarchoama Salamet-Bashet. May your head be in safety. In the mean while he seals a Licence to the Mourderchour, to take the body and wash it in a house which is built on purpose near a running water. After that come a great number of Moullah's, with the Ensigns of the Mosque, which are long staffs like Pikes, at the end whereof are thin plates of Iron and Latin, so weak that they bend downward with the least motion: the bodies of the staves being wrapped about with certain pieces of Taffeta. These Mullahs tear their throats crying out Alla, Alla, Alla, repeating nothing else, and dancing sometimes upon one foot and sometimes upon another; and because they that bawl loudest get the most money, they put their thumbs in their ears with their fingers upon their cheeks, and tear their throats with all the force they have. The body being washed, the clothes of the deceased belong to the Mourderchour. When they carry the Beire, it is the custom that every one that meets it, proffers their shoulders to help carry, while the others ease themselves; for which the Kindred of the deceased make some acknowledgement. If he be a person of Quality, all his Horses are bridled and saddled, and others perhaps borrowed: One carries his Turban, another his Scimitar, another his Bow, another his Arrows, another his Buckler, and whatever else is of any use to set forth his Quality and his Courage. The biggest Churchyard that belongs to Ispahan, is Calreston, but there is not one handsome Tomb in it. The Armenians lay a great stone over the grave, and the rich set up an Arch with four Pillars, under which they eat and drink in the shade when they visit the Tombs of their Ancestors. Their graves are six foot long, six foot deep, and two foot wide, wherein they lay the bodies with their faces turned toward Mecca; and then they set up two tiles of each side his face to keep the earth from falling upon it. If he be a rich man, or have been a stout Soldier, they bury with him his Turban, Scimitar, Bow and Arrows, and set Victuals by him; which part of the hole being made up with brick, the rest is filled up with earth. The Moulla's alone return to the house of the deceased, where they have meat set before 'em, and are also farther paid for their singing and bawling. A while after the Kindred coming to visit the Heir, discourse him upon the contempt of the world, tell him that it is but as a Caravan, some of which arrive sooner at their journey's end than others. Eight days after the Heir returns their visits. As for the Grandees they order in their Wills that their bodies shall be either carried to Mecca or Meshed. As well the Persians as the Turks, believe that as soon as the grave is filled, that the two Angels Neguir and Manguer, revive the dead as far as his waist; ask him the reason of Faith, and which way he said his Prayers, and that according to his merits they use him well or ill. As for the torment of Souls before the Resurrection, that only consists in a grief for not having arrived to those perfections and Sciences to which they might have attained, and consequently for not having attained to that perfection which God required of them. Others hold that the Souls of the unfortunate are tormented with Dreams and Visions; but that the Souls of the happy always enjoy the sight of pleasing objects; till the Saheb-el-zaman, or Master of time shall come to confirm the Law of Mahomet, who shall kill Dedgar, who is like our Antichrist, with his own hand; at which time all then alive shall die in an instant, and then shall happen the general Resurrection, which they call Moavedet-hechre. That the same Bodies and Souls shall unite to appear at the day of Judgement before the Throne of the great Judge of the world; and that to go thither they must pass over a bridge called Polserat, sharper than the edge of a razor, which nevertheless the Mussulmen shall pass over without any danger with the swiftness of a bird. But that misbelievers shall fall as soon as ever they set their feet upon it, and shall fall into a torrent of fire among a thousand Devils armed with Cramp Irons, Pincers, and tenterhooks. So that it is a kind of a Proverb among the Persians, if a man cannot obtain of another the Justice of his bargain, or to yield to right, Well, says he, before thou passest Polserat, thou shalt restore it me double, for I will take hold of thy Coat, and hinder thee from getting over till thou hast given me satisfaction; But the craftier sort laugh at this, and make answer with a smile, Well, well, we will venture stumbling as we pass over Polserat. The Porter of Paradise whom they call Rusuen shall open them the gate. There they shall sit upon the banks of the great Kausser, which is a fountain where their Prophet shall give them of the water to drink out of a Ladle, and that afterwards they shall have a great number of women created on purpose for them, with all sorts of most delicious food. And for fear of fouling this place of recreation and holiness with the excrements of eating and drinking, they say, that those things shall always evacuate in a presumed sweat, and that they themselves shall always remain in that condition. Others more refined, and not believing material enjoyments, affirm that Beatitude consists in the perfect knowledge of the Sciences; and for the senses they shall have their satisfaction according to their quality. CHAP. XX. The Author departs from Ispahan to Ormus, and describes the Road to Schiras. I Set forth out of Ispahan the 24. of Feb. 1665. in the afternoon, and stayed a League from the City, in a field whither some of my friends would needs accompany me. About ten a clock at night, I set forward again, and travelled till break of day; and then I came to a place where the Radars kept guard half a league from a great Town called Ispshaneck, which you are to cross. About ten a clock in the forenoon I came to Mahiar, where there is a very good Inn. But the Land between this and Ispahan is all very barren and without wood. The 26 th', three hours after midnight, I set forward through a dry Plain, which gins to grow more fruitful, about a League from Comshe a great City, where I arrived by eleven a Clock in the morning. In it are several Inns, and indifferent handsome ones, considering that they are built only of Earth. This City is composed of a row of Villages that extend about half a League in length. About three quarters of a League on this side the City stands a neat Mosque with a pond full of fish. But the Mullahs will not permit you to catch any, saying that they belong to the Prophet to whom the Mosque is dedicated. However because it is a shady place in the Summer, Travellers rather choose to lie by this pond, then to shut themselves up in the City. The 27 th' I travelled from four in the morning till ten in the forenoon, through a plain sowed with store of grain, and lodged in an Inn called Maksoubegui. The 28 th' I departed two hours after midnight, and after eight hours' travel through a barren plain, I arrived at Yesdecas, a little City built upon a rock in the midst of a great Valley, and lodged in an Inn at the foot of the Rock. The same day in the morning I passed on to a neat house with sine Gardens, called Amnebad; built by Iman-Kouli-Kan, Governor of Schiras. The first of March I departed an hour after midnight, and a little after I crossed a short mountain, but so rugged and so craggy, that they have given it the name of Kotel-Innel-tebekeni, that is, the Mountain that breaks the Horse's shoes. The next day we passed by a scurvy Castle called Gombessala; then travelling through a flat Country, I came by ten in the morning to Dehigherdou, or the Village of Walnuts. I endured very sharp weather all the morning, for all that Country, and that which I travelled the next day, is very cold at some times of the year. The second day I travelled from midnight till ten a clock in the morning, through the Snow over a barren Plain to come to Cuzkuzar, where there is a new Inn well built. The third I was a horseback from five in the morning till noon, first over the same Plain by a Lake side in a very bad way covered with snow that hide the holes; then passing a tedious long and rugged mountain, I descended to a Village called Asepas, where there is to be seen an old ruin'd Castle upon the point of a Hill. The Inhabitants were all Georgians by descent, but now turned all Mahometans. I met with wine and fish, in regard of the many Rivulets, but the Caravahsira is old, and ill provided. The fourth, setting out by daybreak, I road over a Plain, which Sha' Abbas the first gave the Georgians to till, and in eleven hours I came to Ondgiom, a large Village upon a River, over which there is a fair stone bridge. The fifth, I got a horseback by two a clock in the morning, and had two leagues in the first place of deep miry way; afterwards I passed a steep Mountain, craggy and dirty. I passed through a Village called Iman Shade, from the name of one of their Prophets that lies buried there, and gave the Mountain its name, being all covered with bitter Almond-trees. I travelled sometime between rude and craggy rocks, after which I met with a small River, which runs to Main, a little City where I lodged in a fair Inn. The sixth, I departed three hours after midnight, and travelled through a large Plain encompassed with high and rugged Mountains; upon one of which that is divided from the other, stood a Castle which they say was ruined by Alexander the Great, of which at present there does not remain the least sign or footstep. I crossed the river of Main over two stone Bridges, and then came to Abgherme; a place that stands in a Plain where there is an Inn half built; so called by reason of a Spring of hot waters that rises not far from it. In the morning I passed over a fair and long Causey, called Pouligor, being above 500 paces long, and 15 broad, divided also by certain Bridges, to give the water free passage, by reason the Country is very full of marshes. At the end of this Causey stands an Inn very well built, but the gants that haunt it will not suffer it to be frequented. I passed along by the foot of a Mountain, and after three hours' travel, I stopped a while at an Inn that stands at the foot of another steep and craggy mountain. I arrived at Schiras about six a clock at night. But here give me leave before I enter the City, to make two observations, the one touching the Road from Ispahan to Schiras, the other concerning the ruins of Tche-elminar. As to the Road from Ispahan to Schiras, observe that in winter time when the Snow is fallen, when you come to Yesdecas, you must of necessity leave the direct road, because it is impossible to pass the straits of those Mountains, which I have mentioned. Therefore you must keep the left hand road eastward, through the Plains, taking a guide along with you. This way, which is the longer by two days journey, was formerly unknown, because of a River, that in one place beats upon a steep rock, and closes up the passage. But Iman-Kouli-Kan with a vast expense of time and money, caused a way to be levelled out of the Rock about 15 or 20 foot above the River, which he secured to the waterside with a Wall three or four foot high. This way continues for half a league, and then you come to lie at a great Village in a Plain, where you take Guides to show you the Fords of the River. Having past the River, you cross over several fertile Plains watered with great store of Rivers. Then you ascend a Mountain, from whence you have but a league and a half to Tche-clminar. At the point of the Mountain, upon the right-hand of the great Road, are to be seen twelve Pillars still standing, that form a kind of a square. In the spaces of the Mountain are a great number of Niches, that are opposite to the Pillars, and were certainly the places where the ancient Persians put their Idols. Thence you come to Tche-elminar; where are to be seen a great many old Columns, some standing, and some lying upon the ground, and some ill-shaped Statues, with little foursquare dark rooms. All which together, easily persuades me, who have well considered the principal Pagods of judia, that Tche-elminar was only a Temple formerly dedicated to Idolatrous worship. And that which confirms my opinion, is, that there is no place more proper for an Idolatrous Temple than this, by reason of the abundance of water. Besides, that the dark Rooms could be no other than the Chambers for the Priests,; and where the Rice and Fruits that were the feigned nourishment of the Idols, were the better secured from goats and flies. Leaving Tche-elminar, you come to lie at a Village half a league farther, where is very good Wine. From thence to Schiras is a hard days journey; especially when the Snow gins to melt: for then the Road looks like a little Sea. CHAP. XXI Of the City of Schiras. THE City of Schiras lies in 78 degr. 15 min. of Longitude, and 29 deg. 36 min. of Latitude. It is seated in a Plain that extends itself about four leagues from the North to the South, and from the West to the East about five leagues. Upon the Southeast there is a Lake of salt water four leagues in compass: leaving the Plain as you travel to the South, you pass between two Mountains, which are not so close, but that they leave room for certain pleasant Valleys a league and a half wide. The Soil about Schiras is good, and fruitful; and it is particularly famous for the most excellent Wines of all Persia. As for the City itself, there is nothing handsome in it: for it looks rather like a Town half ruined then a City. Formerly it was begirt with walls of Earth, which are now utterly decayed. The Houses are of the same Earth dried in the Sun, and whitened over with lime; so that when it happens to rain, when the Earth comes to be well moistened, the Houses fall of themselves. Only the College which Iman-Kouli-Kan built, and some of the Mosques are are of Brick: and the best of those Mosques is called Sha-Shiraque, which out of a particular devotion is kept somewhat better in repair. However, there is nothing in it worth taking notice of. Upon the North-east side, the City runs within a quarter of a league of the Mountain: and from a Stone-bridge, as you go out of the City to the foot of the Mountain, is a long Street in a straight line, where there stands a Mosque, built by Iman-Kouli-Kan. Without, it appears fair enough; but within, it falls to ruin. There is an Octogonal Piazza before the Gate, and in the middle of the Piazza an Octogonal Vase, which is filled by a little stream that runs through the Street from the Mountain. Both sides of the Street from the Mosque to the Mountain are walled in: and at certain spaces are great Gates one against another, with rooms over them; the Windows whereof open into the Gardens behind the walls; all along by which runs a row of Cypress-trees in a direct line: and in the middle of the Street, about two hundred paces on this side the Mosque, is another Vase, which receives the same water as it runs from the Mountain. This Street was made by Iman-Kouli-Kan, after he had cut the Mountain at the end of it, to shorten the way from Schiras to Ispahan. There are in Schiras three or four Glass-houses, where they make great and small Bottles, to transport the Sweet-waters that are made in the City. There are also made the several sorts of Vessels wherein they pickle their fruits of all sorts, which they send in great quantities into India, to Sumatra, Batavia, and other places. There is no Silk made, nor any other manufacture in Schiras: only there are some few Chites or Painted-clothes made there, which nevertheless are very coarse, and in use only among the meaner sort. As you go out of the City upon the Northwest side, you meet with a long Alley or Walk, in three parts whereof are placed three Stones, which they call Mills. At the end of this walk is a Garden called Bay-Sha, or the King's Garden. Over the Gate whereof is a great Room half ruined: and at the end of a large Walk planted with Cypress-trees, stands a neat piece of building, but altogether neglected. Upon the lefthand whereof is a great Pond paved with Freestone, being all the beauties of the Garden: which, it is true, was full of Fruit-trees, Roses and Jasmins; yet, for want of order, it looked like a Wilderness. From the Garden to the Hill is a Plain of two leagues long, and one broad; which is all but one large Vinyard belonging to several persons. Beyond the Vinyard rise very high Mountains, from whence fall several little Springs that form a River, which is called Bend-Emir, from the name of a Town where the biggest Spring rises. This River of Bend-Emir waters the whole Vineyard of Schiras; where it never reins from Spring till Autumn: which is the reason that in the Summer there is no water in the very Channel next the City. Their Wines are the best in Persia; but there is not so great a quantity made as people imagine. For, of all this great Vineyard, and in all the places round about the City for four or five leagues together, good part of the Grapes are dried, and a greater quantity pickled: and of the Wine, there are many Vessels full, which are burnt for the benefit of the poor Travellers, and Carriers, who find it a great refreshment to drink it with water. Their Wine, as all other things, is sold by weight, and not by measure: In the year 1666, a most plentiful year for Wine, the Provision of the King's House amounted to 50000 men's of Keukné, or the ancient Men containing nine pound of ours, at sixteen ounces to the pound, (being the only weight for Wine,) and the King allows as much to the Franks, as for his own Household. The Jews of Schiras, who boast themselves of the Tribe of Levi, make above a hundred and ten thousand Mens, it being their chiefest livelihood; but the Governor of Schiras knows how to share with them in their profit. The whole account of Wine made at Schiras amounts to 200025 men's, or 4125 Tuns, at three hundred pints to the Tun. In Schiras is an ancient Mosque, wherein is the Sepulchre of a Sadi, whom the Persians esteem the best of their Poets. It has been a very fair one, accompanied with a large Building, which was once a College; but it runs to ruin, as do also many other Edifices within the City. Just against this Mosque you descend by a pair of Stairs into a large Well, at the bottom whereof is a Vase full of Fish, which nobody dares to touch, it being Sacrilege to rob the Sadi of what belongs to him. A little beyond this Mosque, upon a high Rock, stand the ruins of a Castle; and upon the top of all the Rock is a square Well cut out of the Rock. It is very deep, and ten or twelve foot broad: formerly, they told me, their Adulteresses were all thrown into it. There is one wonderful Well in this City; which is 15 years rising, and 15 years falling; that is, the water is one fifteen years rising to the top, and another fifteen years sinking to the bottom. There are in Schiras two or three Bazars well built, through the midst whereof the water runs in a Channel. To the South-west, a good league from the City, there is a little Hill divided from the great Mountain, upon which Hill are three Gates to be seen, the remainder of an Idolatrous Temple. There were four Gates, but the South-Gate is tumbled down: the rest are standing, composed of three Stones: Upon both the Stones that make the Jaums, there are two figures in half Relief, with their faces one looking upon another, with their arms extended; one holding in his hand a Pan, out of which issues a flame of fire; and the other a Towel folded up. The other Statue holds as it were a Purse in one hand, and a bowl of Fire in the other; the Figures being as big as the Life, only their faces are spoiled; and as for the other doors, they are both the same. Two Musquet-shot from thence, in a plain, riseth a little Mountain, from the North-side of which fall many Springs that meet in a large Pond full of Fish. Some high Trees grow there, to shade the Habitation of a Dervi's that lives there. The place is pleasant, and all the Springs together fill a Channel large enough to water the neighbouring Fields. Here it was that certainly the ancient Idolaters came to wash, and thence went to the Temple to say their Prayers, and make their Offerings. Half a league beyond, at the foot of a Mountain, is a place about 500 paces in compass, whence there fall a good number of Springs that meet in a Pond, environed with high Trees, and full of Fish. In one corner of the Mountain stand Figures, cut out of the Rock much bigger than the Life. The two which are uppermost look one upon another; and that upon the lefthand carries a large Turban, such as the Grand Vizier of Constantinople wears when he goes to the Divan. From his Turban to the middle of his Forehead, he was bound with the Tresses of his own hair, the ends whereof were fastened together with large Buckles behind in his neck. His habit was a Robe after the ancient fashion, with a kind of a Cutlace by his side. Nor did the opposite Statue much differ from this, only instead of a Turban, he wore a kind of Mitre upon his head. The two other Statues underneath the former, stretched forth their arms one to the other: the one representing a Man, the other a Woman. The Man seemed to present the Woman a Nosegay of Flowers; but in truth it was a difficult thing to discern them, in regard they were both covered with a Figtree that grew just before them out of the rock. About two thousand paces farther, there is a Lake of salt water about ten leagues in compass, which is filled by several Springs that fall from the Mountains: and here it is that the people make a great quantity of Salt. There runs into it also a salt River, over which you cross upon a large stone-Bridg about three miles from Schiras, in the way to Bander-Abassi. Half a league from the City are two remarkable Wells: the one upon the top of the Mountain, the other upon the descent, cut out of the Rock: both of an extraordinary depth. There is no water in either, because they are half full of Stones, which they that come to see the Wells, throw into 'em. There are also to be seen the ruins of a Castle formerly built there for the Guard of the Highways. But since Iman-Kouli-Kan made the new way, he caused all those Fortresses to be defaced, as being expensive to the King, and burdensome to the Merchant, from whom the Guards exacted Toll in those places. Now all the ways are free, and the Merchants travel securely. About half a league from the City, toward the North, upon the brow of a high Mountain, stands a little Mosque, like a Hermitage: and fifteen foot below it gushes out a fair Spring, which is the best in the places near to Schiras. Near to it is a little place encompassed with a Pale, with four Pillars that uphold a Ceiling. Here it is that a Dervis sits, and entertains all them that come to visit him, to whom he presents Tobacco, according to the custom of the Country. This place is one of the best Prospects in all Syria, from whence you behold one way all the plain of Schiras, and all the City from one end to the other, with the Gardens. But people go not thither for the fair Prospect, or to visit the Dervis, but to admire a Cypress-tree not above three or four paces from the Prospect, planted among the Rocks; and of that bigness, that four men can can hardly fathom it: it is proportionably high, and is looked upon to be the fairest Cypress-tree in all Persia, where so many grow besides. This Tree is fed by the Spring which I have mentioned, falling some eight or ten foot below into a Cistern, which is always full; whence through a Canal it runs into a Garden in the plain some seven or eight hundred paces from the Mountain. In this Garden are to be seen the remains of a Palace of one of the ancient Kings of Persia: yet what is still to be seen, does not declare it to have been very magnificent. The King was called Padsha quieshel, the Scald-pated King. A thing not to be wondered at, in regard there are few Persians but such as either have or have had scald heads. Two leagues from Schiras, to the South-west, at the foot of the great Mountain, stands a Hermitage, called Pir-Bouno, where three or four Dervis live, as being a pleasant place; for the Dervis always choose out the most delightful places to pitch their Tents in: where they sit smoking their Pipes with that gravity, that if the King himself should come by, they would not stir to give him reverence. That which adds to the pleasure of that Hermitage, is a fair Spring of water that refreshes the Garden, and the number of fair Trees that are about it. About a quarter of a league from the City, toward the West, is to be seen a Churchyard encompassed with Walls; in the middle whereof, looking toward Mecca, stands a Monument very much frequented by the Dervis, and other devout people, who say their Prayers there, it being the Sepulchre of Hougia Hafiz, for whom they have a very great veneration. The year of his decease is set down upon his Tomb; being in the year 1381: and he purchased that great esteem among the Persians, for having composed a great Book of Morality, and for that he was also one of the best Poets of his time. He has left one great Poem behind him in the praise of good Wine; which has caused many to aver, that Hougia-Hafiz was no good Musulman, in regard he has so highly praised a thing which is so strictly forbidden by the Law of Mahomet. Near to the Churchyard is a fair Garden, which men go to see for the beauty of the Cypress-trees, which are its chief ornament. They are to be admired for their height and bigness, among which there is one that was planted by the hand of Sha-Abbas the Great himself, in the year 1607; and it may well deserve to have been planted by the hand of a Monarch; for it was bigger than the rest that had been planted above a hundred years before. Without the City, upon the North-side, at the foot of the Mountain, is a Garden belonging to the ancient Kings of Persia, called Bag-Firdous. It is full of Fruit-trees, and Rosetrees in abundance. At the end of the Garden, upon the descent of a Hill, stands a great piece of Building, and below a large Pond affords it water. The rich Inhabitants of Schiras have been formerly very curious to have fair Gardens, and have been at great expenses to that purpose. But neither at Schiras, nor at Ispahan, is there any thing that may compare with those lovely Paradises of France and Italy. There are many Inns in Schiras, but the Franks generally lodge at the Convent of the Carmelite Friars: and they that would be more private, lodge at another House that belongs also to the same Friars, which they would fain sell, as being a charge to 'em at this time. CHAP. XXII. A continuation of the Road from Ispahan to Ormus, from Schiras to Bander-Abassi. THE sixth of March, by eight of the Clock in the morning, I departed from Schiras; and after six hours' travel through the plain that continues fertile for a league together beyond the City, I came to an Inn called Badaadgi. The water is bad, being as it were lukewarm. Here cold weather gins to cease. The next day I set out by break of day, and came to a large and well-built Inn, only it stood remote from any Town. It is called Mouzaffert, and is the only place in Persia where I met with black Saligots, or Water-nuts, as big and as good as ours in Dauphine. The Country breeds nothing but Goats and Sheep: and about two leagues off runs a River along by the Mountain to the West. The 18 th' I departed by daybreak, and travelled eleven hours through a stone-country, covered with bitter Almond and Turpentine-Trees. I lodged in a fair Inn, called Paira, near to a River that comes from the West, and makes the Country fertile. There is some Wood in the Valleys, and some Villages appear on the other side of the River toward the South. The 19 th' I set out by four of the Clock in the morning, and travelled along a Valley, wherein were many Villages receiving the benefit of the River last mentioned. About eight in the morning I stopped at an Inn built in an Octogonal form, a good league from the River, with several Villages between. The name of the Inn is Kaffer. The 20 th' I set out two hours after midnight, and travelled till ten in the morning through a dry Valley. By the way I met several Shepherds and Herdsmen, who were forsaking the hot Countries, and driving toward Schiras for coolness. They that travel upon their own Horses, and would see one of the richest parts of Persia, and some Antiquities, setting out from Kaffer, instead of following the Caravan-road, take the right-hand way by the side of the River, that runs a league and a half from the same Inn. When you have passed the River, the way is very straight, and lies for two leagues together through a steep Rock, the Mountain upon the right, and the River upon the left, where there is not room in some places for two Horses to ride abreast. All along this way, toward the top of the Mountain, are little paths that lead to Caverns, some of which are so large, that they will contain two or three thousand men. Having past this way, you come into a Plain called Dadivan, four or five leagues in circuit; the greatest part of which is planted with Orange-trees, Citrons, and Granats. Some of these Orange-trees two men can hardly fathom, being as high as our Walnut-trees; and this is one of the most delicious situations in all Persia. I have travelled through it several times, and sometimes only to divertise myself. The rest of the Plain is sowed with Rice and Wheat. You set up your Tents under these Trees, and then the Country people bring Provision of several sorts, especially Partridges, Hares, and wild Goats. The River that crosses the Plain is full of Carp, Barbels, Pikes, and Creyfish. I remember one time a Countryman carried me down to the water, and before my face took up a Fish with his hand. He was so nimble at it, that having caught one which he did not think big enough, he threw it back again, and took up another. Now in regard that Travellers generally stay about ten or twelve days in that place, the Tumblers that live thereabouts, fail not to come and give you a Visit, to show ye some of their tricks, and to taste your Schiras Wine. The English and Hollanders usually spend the end of the Summer in this Plain, for the benefit of the River, and the Trees: which become so large and fair, by means of the River, which the Countrymen bring in by Canals, and shut it up in Ponds, among the Trees, to water their Grounds; which is all the good this River does in Persia: for all the rest of its course is through cragged Rocks, and salt Marshes. The 20 th' of March, by ten in the morning, I came to an Inn which was called Moushek, which is a-lone-House at the foot of a Rock. There is a Spring about five hundred paces from it, but the water is hot, and has a sulphury taste; so that the cattle will hardly drink it. Therefore you must go to a Cistern about two Musquet-shot from the Inn, where there is one newly set up, instead of another that was there before, into which a Jew once chanced to fall in, and was therefore broken by the superstitious Mahometans. Three quarters of a league from Moushetz are two roads that lead to Lar, the one for the Camels, the other for the Horses and Mules. The first is the longest by three days journey, and is called the Road of the Desert; for after you have passed a great Town inhabited only by Camel-Masters, where you lie the first night, between that and Lar, you shall meet with nothing of Houses but only Herdsman's Tents, that feed sometimes in one place, sometimes in another. Upon the Camels Road there are another sort of Fowl like the great Partridges in their bodies, but their legs and feet resemble those of wild Ducks. The Camels take this Road, because it is impossible for them to pass the Mountain Jarron, over which the Horses and Mules are hardly able to travel. I set out from Moushek the 21 th' of March, at two in the morning, and having travelled till eight through a plain, but stony Country, I came to the little City of Jarron, which is rather to be call d a Forest of Palm-trees that bear excellent Dates. I lodged in an Inn five hundred paces from the City, and stayed there two days. The 24 th', setting out presently after midnight, I travelled a good hour, and then I began to mount the steep Mountain of Jarron, which is very high, and very long; but the descent is the most dangerous that ever I saw in all my Travels; and besides that, the Moon did not shine. Being at the top, after you have descended three or four hundred paces, you meet with a Bridge of one Arch, that reaches from one Mountain to another: a bold piece of Architecture, not enough to be admired, being raised at the charges of Iman-Kouli-Kan for the benefit of Travellers. Being come to the bottom of this, you must pass two others as steep in their ascent as in the descent; upon the top of one of which stands a Cistern, which, though it be very large, is generally emptied by the end of the Summer. Upon these Mountains there is such an infinite quantity of Partridge that a man cannot miss that will but shoot. By eight in the Morning I came to an Inn which is called Shakal, which is alone House in a Desert Country, but stored with bitter Almond-trees, and Turpentine-trees. Approaching near to the Inn, you meet with two or three Cisterns, which are a great comfort to Travellers, water being very scarce upon this Road. There are at Shakal nine or ten Radar's for the Guard of the Road, who are also Masters of the Inn: So soon as you are alighted, they ask you if you will eat any Kid, being sure of their blow, and having no more to do but to go to the Mountain and fetch one, where they swarm. There are store of Partridges, which are almost as big as Pullet's; of which you may easily kill as many as you please. The 25 th' I travelled five hours, from morning till noon. An hour after I took Horse, I met with a Mountain, the descent whereof was very steep. They call it the Mountain of H●shen, at the foot whereof is a Fountain of excellent water. A good league farther you meet with a fair Inn called Movezeré, in the midst of a pleasant Grove, where there is an excellent Spring of water; but because there is no food to be had, you must go as far as Detadombé, a Village seated in a plain. A quarter of a league on this side, upon the top of a Mountain, appears the ruins of an old Castle; the Village itself being surrounded with Palm-trees. The Inn is a good one, provided with a very good Cistern. The 25 th' I travelled through a plain for three hours, and stopped at Banarou, a little City well built, at the foot of a high Mountain; upon which appears the remains of a large Castle. Bonarou is the Frontier Town of the Province of Fars, bordering upon the Province of Lar. The 26 th' I departed an hour after midnight, and travelled till nine in the morning, partly through the Plain, and partly through the Mountains, where I saw an old Tower for the guard of the Road. I stayed at Bihry, a little City seated upon a plain, that borders upon a high Mountain. The Inn is new, and very magnificently built by the Mother of Aimas, Can of Lar, when the great Sha-Abbas took this Country from the Gaures, whom he constrained to turn Mahumetans. The 27 th' I set out at four of the Clock in the morning, and about seven I passed through a Village seated in a small plain. A league from thence I lodged in an Inn called Pai-Cotali; that is to say, the foot of the Mountain, as being built at the foot of the Mountain. From thence to Lar is not above four or five hours travelling; but the way is very bad, and several swift Torrents are to be passed over. You may take another Road from Bihry, upon the right-hand toward the West; it is the shorter way by two or three leagues: but so bad, and so narrow, that in many places two Horsemen cannot ride abreast, being for the most part all Rocks and Precipices. Lar is the Capital City of the Province of the same name, which formerly bore the title of a Kingdom. It is but of an ordinary bigness, enclosed on both sides with high Mountains, being built round about a Rock, upon which there stands a Castle of Freestone, wherein the King keeps a Garrison. The whole Country is very hot, nor have they any water but Rain water, which they preserve in Cisterns, and which sometimes causes a wide Torrent that runs by one side of the City, and falls from a Cascade two stories high, made of Freestone. In the City and parts adjacent, grow a great number of trees, especially Date trees and Tamarisk. The Gardens also and Mountains are full of Orange trees. There are but two Inns in Lar, the one within the City, which is not a very good one; the other at the end of the City toward Ormus, which would be convenient, but that it is always afloat when the Rains fall; for which reason the Franks generally lie at the Hollanders House at the end of the City. And there is a necessity for staying at Lar, to change the Camels; for the Camels that come from Ispahan can go no further; every City having their particular privileges. Which sometimes proves prejudicial to the Merchant, in regard the Governor will delay the change of the Camels till he is presented. The Fortress of Lar takes up the whole surface of the top of the Rock; and there is but one way to climb it up, with great difficulty. It is more long than broad; and the four corners are fortified with four Bastions, or Bulwarks, between which are raised several Towers, for the Soldier's Lodgings. That Fortress is the Royal Prison, whither the King sends such Prisoners as he takes in war, or surprises by stratagem. I met with two there, one a Prince of Georgia, the other of Mengrelia. The two Princes had each of them a Toman a day allowed them, and ten or twelve Servants to wait upon them. Upon one of the corners of the Castle, toward the West, was built a Banqueting House with three or four Chambers. In the middle of the Court stands the Magazine, full of Bows and Arrows. Bucklers and Muskets, enough to arm fifteen hundred men. For the Inhabitants of the Province, but more especially of the City of Lar, are accounted the best Musqueteers in Persia, and the best at making the Barrels of Muskets, all but the Breach, which they know not how to order so well as we. The Governors' House answers to the great Road; but there is nothing at all of nearness without, only before the door there is a good handsome Court, about sixty paces square, and closed in with Walls, which leads you into two large Bazars of good Stone, very well arched. The most part of the Inhabitants of Lar are Jews, who are famous for several Silk Manufactures, especially for making neat Girdles. The Countrymen were upon their heads a kind of a felt of fine wool, and very well wrought. It resembles a Cap not yet shaped, with four Corners behind, and cut on the sides; and these sorts of Caps are made at Kerman. There are an infinite number of Cisterns, as well within the City, as in the parts adjacent; and all but little enough, in regard that sometimes it does not Rain for three years together. When the Rains fall they do nor fill their Cisterns the first day, but rather cover them quite up, till the earth be well soaked. Now for the distribution of this water they take an excellent course; for they never keep open above three Cisterns at a time; and when they do open them, the Governor or some other person appointed for that purpose, is present; so precious is water in that place, though never so bad. The water thus standing in the Cisterns sometimes for many years together, breads worms, so that whither you strain it, or boil it, there will appear a kind of foulness in it, which is the seed of these worms. And this corruption it is that breeds worms in the legs and feet of men; which puts me in mind, that after my return to Paris, the fifth time of my travelling, I had one came out of my left foot an Ell an a half long, and another from under the ankle of my right foot half an Ell long. The first of April I set out from Lar by five in the morning, and travelled till three in the afternoon, through a barren stony Country, except it were only one Village called Tcherkah; near to which I met with some Corn-land, and several Palm-trees. I lodged at a little Inn called Shamzenghi. It is low, built like a Cross, with four doors to receive the cool winds every way. All the Inns are built in this fashion between this and Bander, and near to one another for the ease of Travellers. As for the Beasts, they lie without, for they have no Stables. All the Houses from Lar to Ormus are built after one manner. For there is a kind of a Pipe, like a Chimney, that runs from the bottom to the top to gather wind. The second I left Shamzenghi about four in the afternoon, because the heat is cooled by a gentle breeze toward the evening. Three hours I travelled through a barren Plain, afterwards over most fearful Rocks, and about ten at night I came to Cormout, a great Village well stored with Palm-trees. From Lar to Cormout is the worst way in all Persia. For many times there is no water to be found. The third, I parted from Cormout a little after midnight; and having travelled seven hours in very bad way, full of great stones and filthy puddles, I came to a new Inn called Tenquidalen. In the middle of it is a little vase of running water, fed by a little stream that falls from the Mountain. But the water being something brackish, they have since that built a very fair Cistern. They also broached the Mountain to bring the water into a Plain, which was barren before, but is now fruitful, and beautified with two good Villages. This was done by a rich Merchant, whose Children enjoy the Revenues of both. The fourth, I set forward an hour after midnight, and travelled through an uninhabited Country, full of wide Torrents when the rain falls. There are but two small Inns upon the Road, and about eight in the morning I arrived at that which they call Gourba-Sarghant. It was built with the Money which a Merchant of Ormus left for that purpose; whose strength failed him in that very place, for want of a resting place. This Inn is not far from a Village that stands upon the Mountain to the North. The fifth, setting out a little after midnight, I travelled till seven in the morning through a dry and desert Country, yet stored with Lentisk-trees, and lay at a good Village called Cavurestan, where the people were mowing large Fields of Barley. Here, if the Inn be full, you may lie at the Countrymen's Houses, who are accustomed to entertain Travellers, and get well by it. This place is famous for water-Melons, as big as our Pumpkins; and are the best in all Persia. The meat is very red, and as sweet as Sugar, which is a great refreshment to Travellers. The Ketonter of the place gave me two Radishes, one weighing 30, the other 45 pounds, and were very good meat. The 6 th' I set out after midnight, and travelled till it was day through plains of Sand, over which it is impossible to find the way without a guide. About three a Clock in the morning I crossed over two Bridges joined together by a long Causey. Before I came to the first, I road over another for a good quarter of a league, which Causey runs on a great way to the second Bridge, under which flows a salt River; the shore of which is full of moving sands; so that before those Bridges were made, it was dangerous to foard it without a guide. This Causey and the two Bridges were made and built by a Persian, whose name was Aly; who wanting employment at home, applied himself to the King of Golconda, who liked him so well, that he made him General of his Army. Being thus advanced, he also turned Merchant, and trading first with one Vessel, then with two, got a great Estate. At length, all that he had thus got in forty years, to get himself a name in Persia, he employed in making this Causey and the two Bridges. These Bridges are both built over a River that comes from toward Kerman, and is swelled by other streams that fall from the Mountains with a great noise, and discharges itself into the Persian Gulf, near to Bander-Congo; but becomes brackish by passing through Mountains that are nothing but Salt. From the great Bridge to Guitchi is one of the most pleasant Countries in all Persia, being a continued Grove. Guitchi is a place accommodated with two Inns, one a very fair one, and convenient; the other very ill seated, by reason of the dust that continually annoys it, standing upon a sandy ground. It stands near ten or twelve Arabian Tents; so that as soon as you come to the Inn, the Arabian Women presently bring Milk and Butter, and other refreshments. A league and a half from Guitchi you meet with two Roads, one upon the lefthand that seems more beaten, the other upon the right. There a man may easily be deceived that has no guides. For the lefthand way is a dangerous passage, and a kind of a continued Labyrinth among Rocks and Precipices. The right-hand way, which is the best, is all upon the sand to Bander-Abassi, and is usually a days journey. You meet with two Inns by the way, the last of which is called Bend-Ali, built by the Seaside. From Ben-Ali to Bander-Abassi, is but a little more than two leagues through a Country abounding in Palm-trees. CHAP. XXIII. Of the Island of Ormus, and of Bander-Abassi. ORmus is an Island in 92. d. 42. m. of Longitude, and in 25. d. 30. m. of Latitude. It lies at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, two good Leagues from the firm Land. There is neither tree nor herb that grows in it: for it is all over covered with Salt, which is very good and as white as snow. And as for the black shining Sand-dust of Ormus, it is very much used for standishes. Before the Portugueses came to Ormus, there was a City where the Kings of Ormus, who were also Kings of Larr, resided. When the Portugals took it, there were in it two young Princes, Sons of the deceased King, whom they carried into Spain. Where, in regard they were handsomely proportioned, though somewhat swarthy, the King entertained them very kindly, and gave them an honourable allowance. One day that he had showed them the Escurial and all the chief pieces of Architecture in Madrid, the King asked them what they thought of living in Spain. To whom they answered, that they had seen nothing but what was worthy admiration, but then fetching a deep sigh, and perceiving the King desirous to know the meaning of it, they gave him to understand that it was for grief that they must never more sit under their own Tree. For near to the City of Ormus was a Bannians tree, being the only tree that grew in the Island. The Portugals being masters of the Island from an ill-built City, reared it to that height of Magnificence which that Nation admires; so that the very bars of their doors and windows were all guilt. The Fortress was a noble thing, and in good repair: and they had also a stately Church dedicated to the Virgin, where they were also wont to walk. For other place of promenading they had none. Since the Persians took it, the Castle indeed stands in good repair, with a Garrison in it: but the City is gone to ruin; for the Dutch carried most of the stones away to build Battavia. Between the Island of Ormus, and the Continent the Sea is not very deep; for the great ships that sail in and out of the Gulf, pass by the other side of the Island. As for the Fortress which stands upon a point of the Island, it is almost encompassed with the Sea, and lies right over against Persia. Bander Abassi, so called because the great Sha-Abbas the first brought it into reputation, is at present a City reasonably well built, and stored with large warehouses, over which are the lodgings of the Merchants. While the Portugueses kept Ormus, though they lived in the City, all the trade was at Bandar-Abassi, as being the most secure Landing-place upon all the Coast. About 15 years ago it was an open town, but because it was an easy thing then to get into the Town, and rob the Customhouse in the night, it has been since enclosed with walls. To this place come all the ships that bring Commodities from India for Persia, Turkey, or any part of Asia or Europe. And indeed it would be much more frequented by the Merchants from all Regions and Countries. But the Air of Bander is so unwholesome and so hot, that no strangers can live there, in probability of health, unless it be in the months of December, January, February and March; though the Natives of the Country may perhaps stay without prejudice to the end of April. After that they retire to the cooler Mountains, two or three days journey off, for five or six months, where they eat what they gained before. They that venture to stay at Gomron during the hot weather, get a malignant Fever, which if they scape death, is hardly ever cured. However it bequeathes the yellow Jaundice during life to the party. March being passed the wind changes, and blowing at west south west, in a short time it grows so hot and so stifling, that it almost takes away a man's breath. This wind is by the Arabians called El-Samiel, or the poisonous wind, by the Persians Bade-Sambour, because it suffocates and kills presently. The flesh of them that are thus stifled feels like a gluey fat, and as if they had been dead a month before. In the year 1632. riding from Ispahan to Bagdat, I and four more Persian Merchants had been stifled but for some Arabians that were in our Company. For when they perceived the wind, they caused us to light, lie down upon our bellies and cover ourselves with our Cloaks. We lay so for half an hour, and then rising we saw our horses were in such a sweat, that they were hardly able to carry us. This happened to us two days journey from Bagdat. But this is observable, that if a man be in a Boat upon the water when the same wind blows, it does no harm though he were naked at the same time. Sometimes the wind is so hot that it burns like Lightning. And as the Air of Gomron is so bad and dangerous, the soil is worth nothing: For it is nothing but Sand, nor is the water in the Cisterns very good. They that will be at the charge fetch their water from a fountain three leagues from Bander, called the water of Issin. Formerly there was not an herb to be seen: but by often watering the ground, Lettuce, Radish and Onions have begun to grow. The People are swarthy, and wear nothing about them but only a single shirt. Their usual diet is dates and fish. Which is almost the diet of their cattle, for when they come home from browsing the barren bushes, they give them the heads and guts of their fish boiled, with the kernels of the Dates which they eat. The Sea of Bander produces good Soles, good Smelts and Pilchards. They that will have oysters must have 'em caught on purpose, for the people eat none. Upon Land they want neither for wine of Schiras nor Yesd; nor for Mutton, Pigeons and Partridge, which are their ordinary diet. There are two Fortresses, one upon the East, the other toward the West. The Town increases in trade and building, and fills with inhabitants, who build their houses with the remaining ruins of Ormus. The reason why the Trade is settled rather at Bander Abassi, then at Bander Congo, where the Air is good and the Water excellent, is because that between Ormus and Congo lie several Islands, which make the passage for ships dangerous, besides that the often change and veering of the wind is required: neither indeed is there water enough for a Vessel of 20 or 25 guns. Then the way from Congo to Lar is very bad. From Bander Abassi to Lar it is very good, and provided with good Inns. From the day that a Merchant takes up money at Gomron, he is bound to return it in three months, and the change goes from six to twelve per Cent. When the Goods come to Ispahan or any other place, the Merchant is not to touch them, till he has paid the money which he borrowed, unless the Creditor will trust him farther. Some Turkish and Armenian Merchants take up money at Gomron to pay it at Suratt; where they take up other money for Ispahan; at Ispahan for Erzerom or Bagdat, paying the old debt with the new sums, which they take up in each place. The money taken up at Erzerom is paled at Bursa, Constantinople or Smyrna. Money taken up at Bagdat is paid at Aleppo. I always made account, that to take up money at Golconda for Ligorn or Venice, at change for change, the money returns at the cheapest rate, to 95 per Cent. but more oftentimes it amounts to a hundred. CHAP. XXIV. Of the Road by Land from Casbin to Ispahan to the Frontiers of the Territories of the Great Mogul, through Candahar. THe most usual road from Ispahan to Candahar, which the Merchants choose The Persians count the distances of places by agates, that make a large Provence League. in regard of the plenty of water which they meet with, lies thus, From Ispahan to Sakunegi agates 7 From Sakunegi to Mouchena de Radar. 10 From Mouchena de Radar to Nanni. 8 From Nanni to Danaraquie. 15 From Danaraquie to Basabad. 15 From Basabad to Abiger. 9 From Abiger to Biabanact. 5 From Biabanact to Caseni. 5 From Caseni to Samagi. 10 From Samagi to Sadarou. 15 From Sadarou to Chechme-cha. 8 From Chechme-cha to Karte. 14 From Karte to Tabas, ville. 4 From Tabas to Espaque. 7 From Espaque to Teoque. 7 From Teoque to Talkeave. 6 From Talkeave to Cors. 10 From Cors to Tesaitan. 9 From Tesaitan to Berjan. 7 From Berjan to Moti. 7 From Moti to Sarbicha. 5 From Sarbicha to Mont. 7 From Mont to Dourat. 12 From Dourat to Chechmeband. 6 From Chechmeband to Zela. 10 From Zela to Fara, ville. 10 From Fara to Tecourmazetan. 6 From Tecourmazetan to Stabe. 6 From Stab to Bacou. 4 From Bacou to Dilaram. 6 From Dilaram to Chaquilan. 4 From Chaquilan to Dexkak. 4 From Dexkak to Griche, ville. 12 From Griche to Kouskienogout. 10 From Kouskienogout to Candahar. 12 All this while the Men ride upon Horses, and the goods are carried by Camels. The City of Candahar is the chief of one of the Conquered Provinces of Persia, having been often the occasion of war between the Kings of Persia and India. At length Shakstone Abbas became Master of it, the Prince that then reigned there, choosing to put himself under the Protection of the King of Persia rather than of great Mogul: but upon this condition, that the Governor should be always one of his race. And therefore Alimerdan-Kan was the Son of the last Prince of Candahar. That Prince left behind him such a vast Treasury, that his Plate was all of Gold, and he had so much Gold in his Coffers, that when he went to the Great Mogul he would not accept of any thing for his maintenance, but contented himself with one of the highest Dignities in the Empire, which he enjoyed till his death. At Jehanabad he built a most neat House, with a fair Garden upon the River. He got his wealth in some measure, for the greatest part came by Inheritance, by the great advantages which he made of the Caravans that then passed oftener through Candahar than they do now adays. For by delaying the Merchants at the Customhouse, and by treating them himself, and receiving treatments from them again, he caused them to spend their Provisions, which they were forced to recruit again at Candahar. The Grand Shakstone Abbas left the peaceable Possession of Candahar to Sha-Sefi his Grandchild. In whose time Alimerdan-Kan delivered it up to the Great Mogul. Shakstone Abbas the Second retook it in the year 1650. Whereupon Sha-gehan sent his eldest Son to drive him out. But though his Army consisted of three hundred thousand men, yet the place was so well defended that he lost the best part of his Army before it. The next year Sha-jehan sent another Army under the Command of Sultan-Sujah, but he had no better success than his Brother. Thereupon Begum Saheb, Sha-jehan's eldest Daughter, and passionately beloved by him even to Incest, bearing the greatest sway in the Kingdom, and having a vast Treasure, raised an Army at her own charges, and made Aurengzeb Commander of it. After many assaults, Aurengzeb discoursing with his Generals one day who should have the honour if he took the City, and being told that his Sister would have the honour in regard she had raised the Army, the Prince either jealous of his Sister, or else not loath to give occasion of being envied by his Brothers, assaulted it no more, and when the rains came, raised his siege. A. The Principal Citadel. B. Another Citadel. C. The Mountain that reached to the next Citadel, which Sha' Sefi cut away after he took the City. D. The Governors' House. E. The Lodgings for the Officers and Soldiers. F. The Piazza of the City. G. The great street. H. The two Causeys that lead to the City. I. The Path that leads from the Mersh to the City. K. The lesser way that leads from the City to the Citadel. Thus I have finished the most considerable Observations as well in reference to Turkey as to Persia. I have been curious to understand things, and have looked with a strict eye upon them: and I am obliged to inform the Reader, that he must not travel into Asia, in expectation of mending his experience in any of the nobler Arts of Painting, Sculpture, Goldsmith's work, or Turning. As for the Coverlets, Embroideries, Tissues of Gold and Silver, which are made in Persia, and which we admired formerly in France, all these give place to our new manufactures. Insomuch that the Persians themselves admire the rich goods of Europe, and when we carry any thither, they are immediately bought up by the King and the Nobility. They neither understand any thing of Architecture: nor is there any thing in all Asia that equals the Riches and Beauty of the Louvre, or of any other of the King's houses in France, which infinitely excel in workmanship all the magnificence of the Eastern Monarches. Which has made me with astonishment admire that so many Travellers have ascribed to Persia and other Regions of Asia, those beauties for which they were never beholding either to Art or Nature. For if all they have said had been true, those wonders could never have escaped my sight; and I dare assure the Reader that I have described the naked truth of things as really they are. The End of the Relations of Persia: and of the first Part of Asian Travels. THE SIX TRAVELS OF JOHN BAPTISTA TAVERNIER, BARON of AUBONNE, THROUGH Turkey and Persia TO THE INDIES, During the space of Forty years. Giving an Account of the present State of those Countries, viz. of their RELIGION, GOVERNMENT, CUSTOMS, and COMMERCE. AS ALSO The Figures, Weights, and Value of the MONEY and COINS severally currant therein. The Second Part: DESCRIBING INDIA and the ISLES Adjacent. Made English by J. P. LONDON: Printed in the Year, 1678. THE INDEX TO THE Persian Travels. A. ACcident that befell the Author at Balsara. 64, 65. Aleppo described, 57 Alexandretta, 55. The road dangerous for Ships, ib. Ali-Kouli-Kan his Story, 218, 219. Allachars,- vid. Philadelphia. Almanac Persian, 234. Almerdan-Kan delivers up Candahar to the Mogul, 198. His answer to the Mogul, ib. Amadan described, 75. Amadie, 108. Amasia, 4. Anna, 111. Antioch, 56. Aphian Carassar, 37. Arabian Princes exact from the Caravans, 59, 61, 63. Aras anciently Araxes, 9 Arbele Plun, 73. Archbishop of Armenia, 16. Ardevol described, 24. Armenians, their behaviour at Church, 13. Removed by Sha-Abbas, 16. Their Religion, ib. Their custom before meals, 18. Great Traders, 159. Their Languages, ib. Their Marriages, 172. Their Christen, 171, etc. Their Burials, 173. Artaxate, 13. asiatics idle, Asparagus wild, 8. Assaque, 114. Astracan, 116. Astrology admired by the Persians, 234. Athemadoulet, vid. Officers. Athens, 121. Aydar, 195. B. BAgdat described, pag. 84. Balsara, 88 Baker, how punished, 234. Bandee-Abassi, 255. Bannians expelled by Sha-Abas, 202. Baptism of the Armenians, 171. St. Bartholomew, 16, 17. Bassa of Cyprus, 81. Bedovins, what; and how they live, 66. Beauty among the Arabs, 112. Betlis, 105. Bey, what, 105, 106. Bishop Armenian buried, 18. Books Persian, 227, 229. Bread, how made in the Desert, 62. Bufalo's;— fight of Bufalo's, an Armenian sport, 12. C. CAchan, pag. 30. Calaat, how received by the Khans, 236. Camels, their breeding, nature, and several sorts, Camel-drivers, a rude sort of people, 48. One killed by a Cafer, ib. Great cheats, 50. Candahar described, 258. Caudy, remarks upon the Trade of it, 118. Carriage what, 11. Where paid, 38. Caravans, where they set out, 2. Constrained to stop, 8, 9, 11. Caravanseras, the order among them, 45. Casbin, 26. Cazerom, 65. Ceremony of the Taper among the Armenians, and the occasion, 12. At the Enthronement of the King, 200, etc. Chamber of the King's Accounts, 227. Charkliquen described, 6. Children of the King's of Persia, how bred, 196. Chimneys, how made in Persia, 238. Chio, 119. Christians of St. John, and their opinions, 90, etc. Chrysostom's Rock, 6. Churches, the three Churches, 10, 11. The richness of the Armenian Churches, 12, 13. Circastia, 126. Customs of the people, 129. Civility of two Arabians very remarkable, 111. Coffeehouses inspected by Sha-Abas, 154. Colleges Persian, 227- Comania, 126. Customs of the people, 129. Combat between two Bulls, one called Ali, the other Mahomet, 29. Comouks, their Customs and Feasts, 128, etc. Constancy of the Armenians in defending their Religion, 174. Corgia Petrus his Wealth, 159. Corinth, 121. Coron, ib. Corou, 31. Covents Armenian, 16. Courriers Arabian use Dromedaries for speed, 61. Coins of Persia, 50, etc. Curtisrns, how distinguished, 86. Customers of Bagdat, 83. Curds, a strange sort of Arabs, 106. Customs of Persia, 234. Cycladeses Islands, 120. Byprian Birds, 80. Cyprus described, 79. D. DAnger of leaving the Caravan, pag. 6. Darius, 73. Debauchery punished, 232. Dengbe, 26. Dervichs, the strange reverence they gave to Sultan Amurat, 60. Desert described, 61. Diarbeguir described, 104. Diet of the Persians, 241. Diseases of Persia, 239. Their Cure, 240. Disposition of the Persians, 235. Domenico Santis, the story of him, 72, etc. Dromedaries; see Courrier. Duties, where paid, 9, 10, 14, 18, 20, 59, 106, 107, 112, 115, 116. E. ECclisia, 17. Ambassadors expenses born in Persia, 14. Ambassador Indian, the story of him, 65. Emirs of Arabia, 63, 64. Ephesus, 34. Erivan described, 13. Betrayed; retaken by the Persian, 14. Erzerome described, 8. Euphrates, 8, 58. 71. Exchequer Persian, 227. Ezekiel the Prophet, his Sepul- 86. F. FEast of Hozen and Hussein, 161. St. Francis of Paolo's Miracle, 113. Franks in Alexander's Army, 14. Seat themselves near Erivan, ib. Funerals at Bagdat described, 85, 86. Inconvenient to the poor, ib. Funerals of the Persians, 244. G. GAlleys of the Grand Signior; their demands when out at Sea, 54. Their present condition, 122. Gaming not allowed, 236. Gaures, their Religion and present condition, 163. Their Origival and Prophets, 164. Their Books, 165. Their Baptism, Marriages, Feasts, Fasts and Funerals, 166. Their adoration of Fire, 167. their manners and customs, ib. Beasts which they love or hate, 168. Genealogy of the Persian Kings, 195. Georgia, the present state of it, 123. Gezire, 108. Godfrey of Bologne's Arms, 55. Gorno Fortress, 68 Government of Persia, 219. Grand Signior's power over his Bassa's, 8. Gregory, St. martyred, 13. Gulf Persian, 95. Guni, 114. H. HAbit of the Persians, 237. Halicarcara, 10. Haly not much resorted to by the Persian Pilgrims, and why, 62. St. Helena, 22. Hizargerib the fairest Garden of Persia, 157. Highways, how secured in Persia, 233. Strangers bound to hire Horses from Alexandretta to Aleppo, 55. Horses Arabian, 65. I. JAfer-Kan, the Story of him, 210. Janisary strikes out an Armenian Bishop's eye, 10. Jasque, the Prince there of Rebels, Jealousy of the Persians, 239. Iman-Kouli-Kan, the story of his death, 204, etc. Ionas Whale, 54. Ispahan fully described, 148, etc. St. Judas, 86. Justice of the Persians, 232. K. KAffa the City, 113. Kaguisgan Fort, 10. Kalmouches, what sort of people, 127. Khans of Persia, 14. Civil to strangers, ib. 225. Can of Erivan, betrays the Town, and teaches the Grand Signior to drink, 14. The Can of Kerman kind to the Author, 41. Can of Can, his sad end, 30. Kars described, 9 Keckmish, 49. Besieged by the Hollander, ib. Kerman described, 41. Kilet, 82. King of Persia's favours, 236. Kom described, 28. L. LAke of Antioch, 56. Launce that pierced the side of Christ, 13. Languages used in Persia, 229. Lar described, 253. Latitudes of the chiefest Cities of Persia, 135. Locusts, 65, 81. Longitudes of the principal Cities of Persia, 135, etc. M. MAhomet-Ali-beg, the story of him, 42, etc. He punishes his own Son, 44. Mahomet-beg, his misfortune, 212. Revengeful, 212, etc. Malta, the great Ceremony of the grand Muster upon Lady-day, 78. Manners of Persia. See Customs. Marante, 20. Market-price, how settled, 55, 234. Marriages of the Persians, 243. Meal, the strange nature of Persian meal, 27. Mengrelia, the present State of it, 125. Messina described, 2. Milo Island, 120. Mirza-Ibrahim, 23. Mirza-Take, his story, 197. Modon, 121. Money of Persia. See Coins. Monuments Turkish, 3, 4, 24, 25. Mother kills her own Son instead of a Bannian, 202. Moulla's, 226. Moussal described, 71. Murder committed in the Desert, 112. Punished in Persia, 232. N. NAcksivan described, 16. Names and Employments of the Officers of the King's House, 221, etc. Of the Military Officers, 223. Naxis, 120. Nazar; vid. Officers. Nemrod, or the supposed Tower of Babel, 86. Nibia described, 3. Niniveh, 71. Noah, where he lived, 16. His Wife, where buried, 20. Nogays, their Customs, 132, etc. O. OFficers of the King's Household, 221. Military 223. Ecclesiastic and Judicial, 226. Ormus, 255. Ozeman, 4. P. PAros Island, 12. Passage of the Author from Niniveh to Babylon, 82. From Bagdat to Balsara, 87. From Balsara to Ormus, 94. Passengers; see Travellers. Patras, 121. Patriarch of the Armenians, 11. Feasts the Caravan, 12. Pearls of great beauty and value, 95, 144. Persia, its extent and Provinces, 141. The Flowers and Fruits thereof, 144. The Beasts of service, 145. Fish and Fowl there, ib. Buildings, 147. Persians, their Superstition, 24. Their manner of Entertainment, 5. Their Civility, 77. Their extravagancy in Apparel, 238. Their Religion, 160. Their Feasts and Diet, 241. Artists, wherein, 230. Commodities of the Countries, ib. Their manners and customs, 234. Philadelphia now Allachars, 31. Places of privilege, 24. Plains of Salt, 31, 39 Polia or Polis, 4. Policy of the Persians, 232. Pointing at the King of Persia loss of the hand, 207. Porter of the King of Persia beloved by him for his whiskers, 47. Printing not used; and why, 229. Proverb in Persia about living happy, 44. Q. Quitros' Haven, 114. R. RAdars; what, 233. Rafedi's; what, 85. Severely chastised for Superstition, ib. Restoration for robbery, how made, 233. River that peutrifies, 15. Relics Armenian, 17. Roads from France to Constan tinople; 2. From Constantinople to Ispahan; 3. From the borders of Persia to Erivan; 10. From Erivan to Tauris; 15. From Tauris to Ispahan through Tauris and Casbin; 24. From Tauris to Ispahan through Zangan and Sultain; 26. From Smyrna to Ispahan; 32. From Kerman to Ispahan; 41. From Paris to Ispahan another way; 53. From Aleppo to Ispahan through the great Desert; 60. Through Mesopotamia and Assyria; 66. From Niniveh to Ispahan; 72. From Smyrna to Ispahan; 102. From Aleppo to Tauris through Diarbequir and Van; 103. Through Gezire; 108. From Aleppo to Ispahan through the small Desert and Kengavar; 109. From Constantinople to Ispahan by the Euxin-Sea; 113. From Warsaw to Ispahan over the black Sea; and Ispahan to Moscow; 115. From Ormus to Schiras; 245. From Ispahan to Ormus, from Schiras to Bandar-Abassi; 251. From Casbon to Ispahan, and so through Candahar to the Frontiers of the Mogul, 257. Robbery committed upon the Author near Tocat, 40. Robbery; how punished, 233. Rock of a strange nature; 107. S. SAdler Ralph; his sad story; 207. Salmastre; 208. Samatra, a place of Devotion among the Mahometans; 83. Santorini, a remarkable Island; 79. Sardis; 37. Sava; 28. Schiras; 66. Described; 247. Seal of the King of Persia, 179. Sedre, his Office, 226. Sefi-Kouli-Kan Governor of Babylon; his death, 84, 85. Sem the Son of Noah, 15. Sexava, 28. Sha-Abas, 158. Sends to Henry 4th of France, ib. To Spain, ib. His answer, ib. He turns Merchant, ib. Kind to the Capuchins; 157. His madness in drink; 172. He punishes the Baker and Cook; 203. Sha-Abas the second, 209. Shambe; the Inhabitants mad at 18 years of age; 17. Shappars', what; 233. Their privileges, ib. Sha-Sefi destroys the Turks Army; 20. His madness in drink, 198. His cruelty, 206. Shaoux; what they are, 47. Sherazoul, 73. Sidi Fatima, 29. Sinopus, 118. Smyrna largely described; 32, etc. Sophiana; 20. St. Simon; 86. St. Stephens; 17. Story of four Frenchmen; 95. Students Persian; 227. Sultan Amurat makes his entry into Aleppo; 6. Sultain described; 27. Superstation of the Persians; 236. T. TAmerlane; 195. Tartars eat raw Horseflesh; 7. Lesser Tartars; 132. Tauris described; 20; 21; etc. And the places adjacent; 23. Temple of Ephesus. See Ephesus. Teren; 108. Thievery punished, 233. Tigris; 71. Time; how divided by the Persians; 240. Tocat; 5. Tocia; 4. Tower of Babel; vid. Nemrod. Travelling very secure in Persia; 18; 233. Travellers; how to behave themselves; 47. The treachery of a Janisary; 35; etc. Turkey; bad travelling in Turkey; 1. Turks; their Superstition; 9 Turquoises; 144. V VAn; 106. Voyage; The Author's Voyage from Marseilles to Alexandretta, 78. The Author's first Voyage, 95. From Paris to Smyrna, 99 W. Water bitter, 61. Scarce in Persia, 156. Women of Bagdat, 86. Of Arabia, ib. Of Persia, 239. Wool of Persia very fine, 40. Writing Persian, 229. Y. YEsde described, 44. Yesdecas, 66. Z. Zoea Island, 120. Zulpha described; 19, 155, 157. etc. THE FIGURES Of the PIECES of Gold, Silver, and Copper: AND OF The Sorts of Shells and Almonds that pass for MONEY over all ASIA. The Money of Arabia. Larin, Figure 1. Half-Larin, Fig. 2. THIS Money (Fig. 1.) is called The Author not having given an account of the weight or fineness of the Coins he treats of, but having only expressed their value in French Livres, it is thought fit for the better reduction thereof into English Coin, to advertise, That Three French; Livres make a French Crown, which passes in Exchange from 54 pence to 58 pencel halfpenny; so that a French Livre may be in value as the Exchange goes, from 18 pence to: 19 pence halfpenny. And twenty Sous make a Livre. Larin, and signifies the same with our Crowns. The Five Pieces are as much in value as one of our Crowns; and the Ten Half-Larins as much. Only the Five Larins want in weight Eight Sous of our Crown. This is that which the Emirs, or Princes of Arabia take for the Coining of their Money; and the profit which they make by the Merchants that travel through the Desert, either into Persia or the Indies. For then the Emirs come to the Caravans, to take their Tolls, and to change their Crowns, Reals, or Ducats of Gold, for these Larins. For they must of necessity pass that way. And they must use very smooth words to boot; for there is nothing to be got by rough Languages. If they see the Merchants will not change their Money, then will they refuse to take their Toll; but making as if they had not time to cast up the account, they go a hunting, and leave the Merchants fifteen or twenty days without saying any thing more to them; while they in the mean time spend their provisions, not knowing where to get more. If the Caravan goes on without paying their Tolls, these Arabian Princes will either cut them in pieces, or take away their Camels, or rob them of all they have, as they have several times done. In one Journey that I made, one of these Princes kept us one and twenty days; after which we thought ourselves happy to be quit of him, when we had given him whatever he demanded. If these five Larins did but weigh as much as the Crown, or Real of Spain, the Merchants would never be much troubled. But when they come to Persia, or the Indies, they must carry their Money to the Mint, as I have said in another place, and lose above eight Sous in a Crown, which amounts to 14 per Cent. As for what remains, the Larins are one of the ancient Coins of Asia; and though at this day they are only currant in Arabia, and at Balsara, nevertheless, from Bragdatt to the Island of Ceylan, they traffic altogether with the Larin, and all along the Persian Golf; where they take 80 Larins for one Toman, which is 50 Abasses. The Money currant under the Dominions of the Great Mogul. ALL the Gold and Silver which is brought into the Territories of the Great Mogul, is refined to the highest perfection before it be coined into Money. The Roupy of Gold weighs 2 Drams and a half, and 11 Grains, and is valued in the Country at 14 Roupies of Silver. We reckon the Roupy of Silver at 30 Sous. So that a Roupy of Gold comes to 21 Livres of France; and an Ounce of Gold to 58 Livres, and 4 Deneers. This Gold is like that which we buy at 54 Livres an Ounce. And if you bring this Gold in Ingots, or Ducats of European Gold, you shall have always 7 and a half profit; if you can scape paying any thing to the Custom-houses. The Half-Roupy comes to 10 Livres 10 Sous; and the Quarter-Roupy to 5 Livres 5 Sous. As I have said, you must reckon the Silver Roupy at 30 Sous, though it weigh not above 3 Drams; whereas our pieces of 30 Sous weigh 3 Drams, and half 4 grains; but the Roupy is much the better Silver. In a word, they that understand Traffic well, and carry hence Gold or Silver to the Territories of the Great Mogul, get always 7 or 8 per Cent. profit, provided they take care to shun the Custom-houses. For if you pay them, the 7 or 8 per Cent. which you might make profit, goes to them; and so the Roupy comes to 30 Sous, the Half to 15, and the Quarter to 7 and a half, the Eighth part to 3 Sous and 9 Dinars. As for their Copper Money, sometimes 'tis worth more, sometimes less, as Copper comes to the Mint. But generally the biggest sort is worth 2 Sous of our Money, the next 1 Sous, the next to that 6 Dinars. As for their Shell Money, the nearer you go to the Sea, the more you give for a Pecha; for they bring them from Maldives. Fifty or 60 of these make a Pecha, which is that piece of Coin that is worth but 6 Deneers. For their Money of Mamoudi's, half Mamoudi's, and Almonds, all that sort of Money is only currant in the Province of Guzeratt, the principal Cities whereof are Surat, Barocha, Cambaya, Broudra, and Amadabat. Five Mamoudi's go for a Crown, or a Real. For small Money they make no use of these Shells, but of little Almonds, which are brought from about Ormus, and grow in the Deserts of the Kingdom of Larr. If you break one of the Shells, it is impossible to eat the Almond, for there is no Coloquintida so bitter; so that there is no fear lest the Children should eat their small Money. They have also those little pieces of Copper which are called Pecha, 6 Deneers in value. They give 20 for a Mamoudi, and 40 Almonds for a Pecha; sometimes you may have 44, according to the quantity which is brought. For some years the Trees do not bear, and then the price of this sort of Money is very much raised in that Country; and the Bankers know how to make their benefit. Fig. 1. The Roupy of Gold. Fig. 2. The Half-Roupy of Gold. Fig. 3. The Quarter-Roupy of Gold. Fig. 4. The Roupy of Silver. Fig. 5. Another Roupy of Silver. Fig. 6. The Half-Roupy of Silver. Fig. 7. The Quarter-Roupy of Silver. Fig. 8. The Eighth part of the Roupy of Silver. Fig. 9 Four Pecha's of Copper. Fig. 10. Two Pecha's of Copper. Fig. 11. One Pecha. Money of Arabia Larin & half Larin Money of the Great Mogul The Money of a King and two Rajas Fig. 12. The Shells. Fig. 13. A Silver-Mamoudi, which is the Money of Guzerat. Fig. 14. Half a Mamoudi. Fig. 15. The Almond. I have marked two sorts of Roupies, the one square, the other round. The square one is as they coined it anciently; the round ones are as they make them at this day. The Money of a King and two rajas, all three Tributaries to the Great Mogul. MAton-cha is a Tributary to the Great Mogul; yet he has power to coin Monev. When you are at Agra, the Territories of this King lie to the North; and before you can come at them, you must pass over very high and cragged Mountains. 'Tis a good Country, where are all things necessary for the support of humane life, except Rice, which is a great inconvenience to the Inhabitants, who being all Idolaters, are deprived thereby of their chiefest delicacies, in regard they feed upon nothing so hearty as upon Rice. They have excellent Corn, and Grapes, but they make on Wine, though they make some Aqua Vitae. They want neither Oxen nor Cows; but their Horses are little, weak, and ill-shaped. All the Trade which these people have with their Neighbours, is in Copper, whereof they have two extraordinary Mines, from whence they furnish the greatest part of the Mogul's Territories; out of which they have Salt in Exchange, not having any of their own. This Salt costs them dear, in regard it is four months' travel to the place where they fetch it, that is to say, from the Territories of Maton-cha to the Indian Coast towards Bacaim. They travel upon Oxen, and the same Oxen carry their Copper. There must be also some Mines of Lapis-Lazuli and Garnets' in that Country, in regard they bring several from thence. Fig. 1, and 2. is the Money of Maton-cha. Fig. 1. is the Silver-Money, which weighs not above one dram and 19 grains, and is of the same goodness as the Roupy. The half-Roupy goes for 15 Sous, and this for 16 Sous, which is six and a half per Cent. more. But certain it is, that the more Northward you travel that way, Gold and Silver is more scarce. Fig. 2. These pieces of Copper go for the value of a Pecha of the Great Mogul; they are heavier by half, but the Copper is not so good as that of Pegu or Japan. Fig. 3, and 4. is the Money of the Raja of Parta Jajoumola. The Raja of Parta, Jajoumola, is one of the great rajas on the other side of the Ganges. His Territories are directly North of Patna, night to the great Moguls, to whom he is Tributary, and bordering upon the King of Bantam. He is bound every year to send an Ambassador with twenty Elephants to the Governor of Patna, who sends them to the Great Mogul. The greatest part of his revenue consists in Elephants, Musk, and Rhubarb. He lays also a great Imposition upon Salt, as well that which is spent by his own Subjects, as upon that which is carried abroad. This is all Sea-coast Salt, which comes from the Territories of the Great Mogul, and is brought from the Sea-coast to Ganges, and so over Ganges is carried as far as the fiftieth and five and fiftieth Degree. They lad above 150000 Oxen; and for every burden they pay a Roupy at the Salt-Pits, and no more afterwards through the whole Kingdom. Had this Raja of Parta Salt of his own, he would never be Tributary to the Great Mogul. Fig. 5, and 6. is the Money of the Raja of Ogen. The Raja of Ogen is also a Tributary to the Great Mogul; his Country lies between Brampour, Seronge, and Amadabat; and it is one of the best Soils in the Indies. His Silver Money passes nowhere but in his own Country, not being suffered in the Moguls. His Silver Money goes for a quarter of a Roupy, at 7 Sous 6 Deneers; but the Silver is base. His Copper Money goes for 6 Dinars, and is currant in the Mogul's Dominions as far as Agra. For his smaller Money he makes use of those Shells whereof we have already spoken. Pieces of Gold called Pagods, which are currant in the Territories of the King of Golconda, the King of Visapour, the Great Raja of Carnatica, the Raja of Velouche, and at the Diamond Mines. ALL the Pieces of Gold represented in the Plate of Golconda-Money, pass through all these Countries at the same value, and are about the weight of our half Pistol; but the Gold is of a base Metal, so that an Ounce is not worth above 42 or 43 Livres; not going for more than four Roupies. Pieces of Gold called Pagods. English & Holland Money. Fig. 1. The old Pagod. Fig. 2. The King of Golconda's Pagod. Fig. 3, and 4. The King of Visapour's Pagod. Fig. 5, and 6. The Raja of Carnatica's Pagod. Fig. 7, and 8. The Raja of Velouche's Pagod. Fig. 9, 10, 11, and 12. are the Half-Pagods of those Kings and rajas. Fig. 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17. are little Pieces of Gold called Fanos, which are of different value. There are some whereof six go to a Crown; others from ten to fifteen; and some are very base metal. This is the Money that passes all along the Coast of Coromandel; from Cape Comorin as far as Bengala. And they have very little other than that, besides the Pecha of Copper, and the Shells, which pass for small Money. The Money which the English and Hollanders Coin in the Indies. FIgure 1, and 2. is the Money which the English coin in their Fort St. George, or else at Madrespatan, upon the Coast of Coromandel. They call them Pagods, as those of the Kings and rajas of the Country are called. They are of the same weight, the same goodness, and pass for the same value. Formerly the English never coined any Silver or Copper Money; for in some parts that border upon the Indians, where they have Factories, as at Surat, Maslipatan, or at Bantam, they find it more profitable to carry Gold from England, than Silver; Gold lying in less room, and not being so troublesome; besides, that by carrying Gold they more easily escape the paying those Customs which the Kings impose upon Gold and Silver. But since the present King of England married the Princess of Portugal, who had in part of her Portion the famous Port of Bombeye, where the English are very hard at work to build a strong Fort, they coin both Silver, Copper, and Tinn. But that Money will not go at Surat, nor in any part of the Great Mogul's Dominions, or in any of the Territories of the Indian Kings; only it passes among the English in their Fort, and some two or three Leagues up in the Country, and in the Villages along the Coast; the Country people that bring them their Wares, being glad to take that Money; otherwise they would see but very little stirring, in regard the Country is very poor, and the people have nothing to sell but Aqua vitae, made of Coco-Wine and Rice. Fig. 3. and 4. is the Gold Money which the Hollanders coin at Palicate, which is a Fort that they possess upon the Coast of Coromandel. Those pieces are also called Pagods, and are of the same weight with the others; but for the goodness, I think they are better by two or three in the hundred, than those of the Kings and rajas of the Country, or which the English make. I made this observation, being at the Diamond-Mines, and in other parts of the Indies where there is any great Trade. For the first thing they ask you is, whether you have any Pagods of Pelicate; and if you have, you speed much better in your business. Fig. 5. and 6. is a Rupee of Silver, which the Hollanders coin at Pelicate, being of the same weight with those which the Great Mogul, or the Kings of Golconda and Visapour make. It has in the middle upon one side the mark of the Holland Company, to distinguish it from others. The Hollanders Roupies of Silver are quite contrary to their Pagods of Gold, which are more esteemed by the Indians than those of the Princes of the Country. For they make far less account of these Roupies of Silver; and if you pay any great sum in these pieces, though the Silver be as good as the others, you must lose one half per Cent. Fig. 7. and 8. is the Hollanders small Copper-Money, wherewith they ordinarily pay their Soldiers. It has upon one side the mark of the Company. And indeed the Hollanders, who mind nothing but their profit, had great reason to obtain leave to coin Money; for bringing only Gold from Japan, from Macassar only Gold in Powder, and from China Gold in Ingots, and selling all these to the Bankers, they found that they lost five or six per Cent. which proceeded from the mistrust of the Changers, and the chief of the Factories belonging to the Company. Now they eat that loss, and make the same profit which the Bankers did, coining all these metals into money. Though in every Voyage which they make to Japan, they generally lose one Vessel by storm; yet some years they make five or six Millions of Liures profit, all freights discharged, and hazards escaped. But that profit is quite lost, since their loss of the Island of Formosa. The Money of the King of Cheda and Pera. THis Money is of Tin, and is coined by the King of Cheda and Pera. He coins no other Money than Tin. Some years he found out several Mines, which was a great prejudice to the English. For the Hollanders and other Merchants buy it, and vend it over all Asia. Formerly the English brought it out of England, and furnished great part of Asia, where they consumed a vast quantity; they carried it also into all the Territories of the Great Mogul, as also into Persia and Arabia; for all their Dishes are of Copper, which they cause to be Tinned over every month. Among the meaner sort of people, there is little to be seen but this Tin-money, and the Shells called Cori; which I have spoken of already. The Money of the King of Beda and Pera. Money of the King of Achen. Money of the King of Siam Fig. 3, and 4. is a piece that goes at the value of four Dinars. Fig. 5, and 6. are their Shells, whereof they give fifty for the little piece of Tin. The Money of Gold and Tin of the King of Achen. With the Money in Gold Coined by the King of Macassar, and the Celebes. And the Silver and Copper Money of the King of Camboya. FIg. 1, and 2. is the Money in Gold coined by the King of Achen, in the Island of Sumatra. In goodness it is better than our Lovis; an Ounce being well worth fifty Franks. This piece weighs 10 Grains, and would be worth sixteen Sous and eight Dinars of our Money. Fig. 3, and 4. is the small Money made by the same King, being of Tin, and weighs eight Grains. The Tin being good, I value it at 16 Sous a pound; and then 75 of these pieces is worth one Sous of ours. Fig. 5, and 6. is the Money in Gold of the King of Macassar, or the Celebes. This piece weighs twelve Grains, and the Hollanders take it for a Florin of our Money; which comes to 23 Sous and eight Dinars. Fig. 7, and 8. is the Silver Money of the King of Camboya; being good Silver, and weighs thirty two Grains. The piece comes to 24 Sous of our Money; nor does the King coin it at any higher rate. He has a great quantity of Gold in his Country, but he never coins it into Money; for he trade's with it by weight, as he does with his Silver, according to the custom of China. Fig. 9, and 10. is the Copper Money of the King of Camboya. The King of Java, the King of Bantam, and the Kings of the Molucca Islands coin no other Money, but pieces of Copper after the same form and manner. As for their Silver Money, they let it pass as it comes out of other Countries, without melting it down. In Bantam, in all Java, in Batavia, and the Molucca's, there is little other Money stirring, but Spanish Reals, Rixdollars of Germany, and Crowns of France; the greatest part being Half-Reals, Quarters, and Eighth parts. But in Batavia they use besides for small Money, Shillings, double Sous and Sous, as in Holland. The Money in Gold, Silver, and Copper, of the King of Siam. Fig. 1, and 2. is the Money in Gold, coined by the King of Siam; and weighs 18 Grains more than our Half-Pistol. The Gold is of the same Goodness, and may be worth 7 Livres and one Sous of our Money. When the Merchants, that trade in that Country, bring thence either Gold or Silver, 'tis for want of other Commodities, as Silk, Musk, Sandal, Wood Gum Lake, Elephants teeth, and other things. For by carrying out Gold or Silver, they reap but two in the hundred profit. Fig. 3, 4, 5, and 6. is a piece about the bigness of a large Hazelnut, flatted on the four sides, like a semicircle, three sides whereof are open like a Horse-shoe; and upon two sides are certain of their own Letters. There is no Money in the East so strangely coined as this. It weighs three Drams and a half, and 25 Grains, and is as good as our Silver at three Livres and 10 Sous the Ounce. It amounts to 32 Sous and 4 Dinars of our Money. Fig. 6, 7, and 8. is the Copper Money of the King of Siam; and they give two hundred of these pieces for one piece of Silver. For their small Money, they make use of certain Shells that are gathered upon the Seashore, which they bring from Maldives. The Gold and Silver Money of the Kings of Asem, Tipoura, Arakan, and Pegu. ALL the Silver Money coined by the Kings whom I have named, is in goodness equal to our Crown; rating it at three Livres ten Sous the Ounce, as we rate our Crowns here. Fig. 1, and 2. is the Silver Money of the King of Asem; it weighs three Drams and four Grains, and comes to 23 Sous of our Money. Fig. 3, 4. is the Silver Money made by the King of Tipoura Chatermani. In the language of the Country, he is called Dieu-Ara-gari, which is stamped upon one side of the Money, and upon the other Chatermani Roy de Tipoura: His Country gins about twelve days journey from Daca toward the North-West. This Money weighs two Drams and a half, and twentytwo Grains; and is in value twentytwo Sous. Fig. 5, 6. is the King of Arakan's Money. It weighs two Drams and a half, and 15 Grains, which makes 21 Sous of our Money. This King coins no Gold; but he trafficks in Gold uncoined. The Metal is very base, and not worth above 14 Carats, a Carat being the third part of an Ounce. The King however holds it at a high rate, to keep it from being carried out of his Country. In all Bengala this King is known by no other Name but the King of Mogue. Fig. 7, and 8. is the King of Pegu's Silver Money, and weighs two Drams and a half, and twelve Grains, which may come to about 20 Sous, and six Dinars of our Money. Fig. 9, and 10. are the King of Pegu's Fano's, or little pieces of Gold, and weigh not above 7 Grains to boot. Fifteen of these little pieces pass for the value of a Real, or one of our Crowns, the Gold being course. Fig. 11, 12. are the Kings of Asem's Fano's; they weigh also 7 Grains; but they are a much base Metal than those of Pegu, for twentytwo of them amount but to the value of our Crown. Lumps or Pieces of Gold and Silver which go for Money in the Kingdom of China; and the Kingdom of Tunquin. YOu are first to take notice, that in all the Kingdom of China, and the Kingdom of Tunquin, there is no Money coined, either Gold or Silver, that their small Money is Copper, and that they make use in payments only of Lumps or Pieces of Gold and Silver, which have every one their particular weight, as is here'represented. The Pieces of Gold marked Fig. 1, and 2. are by the Hollanders called Goltschut, that is to say, a Boat of Gold, because they are in the form of a Boat. Other Nations call them Loaves of Gold; and there are but two different sizes of them. The Gold is of such a goodness, that an Ounce in France would not be worth less than 42 Franks. The great Pieces come to twelve hundred Gelder's of Holland Money, and thirteen hundred and fifty Livres of our Money. The other Piece, which weighs but half as much, is in value according to its proportion. Money of the King of Asem. The japonners Call these pieces as well Silver as Gold Coupent. In great payments they make use of Ingots, that come to a hundred Franks in value; and they have little Pieces of Silver that are not worth above a Sous. When they buy any Commodity, if they have not whole Pieces enough to make up the sum, they have always instruments ready, to cut off so much from a great piece as will perfect the payment. When the Chineses transport their Golden Loaves, or their Boats, into other Countries, the Merchants cut them in the middle, not daring to trust the Chinese, who have often deceived them; and none have been more cheated than the Hollanders. For they have a way to stuff their Loaves of Gold, insomuch that you shall sometimes find in the middle, a third part of Copper or Silver. In all sorts of Bargains the Chinese are so cunning, that there are few strangers whom they do not overreach; especially, in Batavia, the Hollanders when they come first. They carry their weights always along with them, being like a Roman Beam, or a Stelleer, about eight Inches long, with which they weigh all the Gold and Silver which they receive. As for the small Money both in China and Tunquum, it is of Copper. It is made as in Fig. 4. They also thread these pieces, there being a hole in the middle, 12, 25, 50, and 300 upon a string; because they will not put themselves to the trouble of telling them, when the number exceeds a dozen. The Gold and Silver Money of Japon. ALL the Gold that comes from Japon, is of the same goodness; somewhat better than our Lovis; and is about that goodness for which we pay about 50 Franks the Ounce. Fig. 1. This piece of Gold weighs one Ounce and six Drams, at fifty Franks the Ounce, comes to 87 Livres and 10 Sous. Fig. 2, and 3. Every one of these pieces is of Gold, and every one weighs a third part of the great one; which is half an Ounce, and 48 Grains; and comes to 29 Livres, 3 Sous, and 4 Dinars. Fig. 4. This, as it is marked, is the backside of the three pieces of Gold. Fig. 5, and 6. are pieces of Silver of the same weight; every one weighing 4 Grains less than our pieces of 30 Sous, though it go nevertheless for the same value. As for the Silver, it is the same in goodness with our Money. However, in the Territories of the Great Mogul, whither the Hollanders carry all their Silver, their Bars, and Japon pieces, to coin them into Money, sometimes they sell them to the Bankers, where they have no convenience of coinage, as at Surat and Agra; and these Bankers give them from two to three in the hundred more than they will give for our Crowns, Rixdollars, or Spanish Reals. Fig. 7. is the backside of the two Silver pieces. The Portraiture of the Silver Ingots of Japon, which go for Money. I Said before, that all the Silver that comes out of Japon, is equal in goodness to our Crowns. Fig. 1. An Ingot of this form weighs seven ounces, at three Livres ten Sous the ounce: the whole comes to twenty four Livres, and ten Sous. Fig. 2. Weighs two ounces, three drams and an half: the whole comes to eight Livres, ten Sous, and seven Dinars. Fig. 3. Weighs once ounce, half a dram, and twelve grains: the whole comes to four Livres, five Sous, and five Dinars. Fig. 4. Weighs one ounce, eight grains: the whole comes to three Livres, ten Sous, and an eleven Dinars. Fig. 5. Weighs seven drams, one quarter, and seven grains: the whole comes to three Livres, eight Sous, and eight Dinars. Fig. 6. Weighs two drams and an half, and twenty four grains: the whole comes to one Livre, five Sous, and one Denier. Fig. 7. Weighs two drams, twenty four Dinars: the whole comes to one Livre, nine Dinars. Fig. 8. Weighs one dram and an half, and twenty four grains: the whole comes to sixteen Sous, and four Dinars. Fig. 9 Is the Copper-Money which they thread by fifteen, thirty, fifty, to the number of 600. which is the value of a Tell in Silver. Over all Japon they reckon by Tells: and the Hollanders reckon, that a Tell makes three Gelder's and an half of their Money, which comes to four Livres, and five Sous of ours. Fig. 10. Is the backside of the Copper-piece. Money that represents the Figures of the twelve Signs; and which were Coined during the twenty four hours, that Gehanguir, King of the Indians, permitted Queen Nourmahall, his Wife, to Reign in his stead. Silver Ingots of japan. Money representing the 12 Signs Perhaps the Reader may be curious to know from whence this Illustrious Queen of the Indians descended: and therefore for his satisfaction, I will tell him in a few words. Her Father, a Persian by Nation, a man naturally Ambitious, and who in his own Country was no more than a bare Captain of Horse, without any hopes of rising to any higher preferment, travelled into the Indies, to serve the Great Mogul, who was then Gehanguir, with an intention of raising his Fortune in a strange Country. Gehanguir had then many Enemies, the Kings of Golconda and Visapour being in Rebellion against him, and several rajas having taken their part. So soon as he came to kiss the King's Hands, the King took a liking to him, and gave him immediately the Command of five hundred Horse. And because he was very well skilled in Astrology, (which is a Science to which the asiatics are very much addicted) the King esteemed him the more, and in a short time made him General of his Army. But afterwards, forgetting his duty, and the benefits he had received, he joined with Sultan Kosrou, guir's eldest Son; and having gained a great part of the Army, they conspired together to depose the King, and set up his Son in his stead. There was at that time in the Court, an Eunuch of great wit, who did more mischief to the Army in his Closet, than he could have done in the Field. This Eunuch, so soon as intelligence was brought of the Rebellion, told the King, that if his Majesty pleased, he would deliver Kosrou and the Persian General into his hands in a short time, without so much as striking one stroke, or losing one man. He was as good as his word in part, for he so ordered his business, by his politic contrivances, that the General was brought to the King, who would not presently put him to death. Sultan Kosrou escaped that bout, and continued the War many years against his Father, who at length took him in Fight, and caused his eyes to be pulled out. The King detaining the General in custody, his Wife and his Daughter found a way to save his life, as you shall hear. The Daughter of the Persian General, who was his only Child, was about fourteen years of Age, the most accomplished Beauty at that time in all the Kingdom; she was most rarely educated, and could both write and read the Arabian, Persian, and Indian Languages. The Mother and the Daughter went every day to Court, to hear what would become of the General; and understanding at length, that the King intended either to put him to death, or to banish him, they came to the Haram, and casting themselves at his Majesty's feet, they humbly begged pardon, the one for her Husband, the other for her Father; which they easily obtained; the King being surprised at the Beauty of the Virgin, to whom he afterwards surrendered his Affections. All the Court was astonished afterwards, how the General and his Wife could keep, so private, a Daughter that was so incomparably fair, that it should not come to the King's knowledge. At length he loved her so tenderly, that not being able to deny her the liberty of Reigning one whole day in his place, he gave her leave to share with him afterwards in the Government. And she it was, that gave motion to all the most important Affairs of State; the King excusing himself to the Grandees of his Court, who wondered why he let the Queen bear so great a sway, by telling them, that she was fit for the Government, and that it was time for him to take his ease. Fig. 1, and 2. is as all the rest are, the backside of the Twelve Signs. Fig. 1. is the backside of the Ram. and Fig. 2. of Cancer. Both of them signify the same thing; it being the Name of the King, Queen, and City where they were stamped. These two were coined at Amadabat. The Gold, Silver, and Copper Money which the Portugals coin in the East Indies. THe Gold which the Portugals Coin in Goa is better than our Lovisse's of Gold, and weighs one grain more than our half Pistol. At the time when I was in Goa, this piece was worth four Roupies, or six Franks. They hold it up at so Portugal Money. Muscovie Money. high a rate, to the end the Merchants, who come from all the Coasts of India thither with their Wares, may not transport it out of the Country. This piece is called St. Thomas. Formerly when the Portuguez had the Trade of Japon, Macassar, Sumatra, China and Mosambique, which they still preserve; and is the place whither the Indians bring the Gold of the Abassins' and Saba, it was a wonderful thing to see the quantity of Gold which the Portuguez Coined, and the several pieces of workmanship which they framed in Gold, and sent into Foreign Countries, even to the West-Indies, by the way of the Philippine Islands. But now they have no other places but only Mosambique to furnish them with Gold, they keep up those Pieces called St. Thomass' at a very high rate, lest they should be carried out of the Country, as I said before. They have also Silver Pieces, which they call Pardos', which go for the value of 27 Sous of our Money: As also a great quantity of small Copper and Tin-Money, not much unlike that of the Kings already mentioned, which they thread upon strings in particular numbers. The Gold and Silver Money of Muscovy. I Have observed in my Relations, that in all parts of our Europe, where they Coin Money, there are great Sums transported all over Asia, where they go currently. But for the Money of Muscovy there is great loss in transporting it any where else; because the Prince enhances it to so high a value. The pieces as well of Gold as Silver are very good Metal; for the Gold in worth is somewhat higher than our Lewis. Fig. 1 and 2. This piece of Gold weighs 14 Grains; and to take the Gold at 48 Grains the Ounce, would amount to 20 Sous, one Denier, and one halfpenny of our Money. But going in Muscovy for 24 Sous, there would be nineteen and an half loss to transport it any where else. Fig. 3 and 4. Is a piece of Silver that weighs eight Grains; and to take an Ounce of Silver at three Livres ten Sous, it comes to a Sous of our Money. But in the Country you have but fifty of these pieces, or at most sometimes fifty two for one of our Crowns, or a Real of Spain, or an High-German Rixdollar. Fig. 5 and 6. Is a piece of Silver also which only goes in Muscovy. But I cannot tell in what Province it is Coined, in regard there are no Arms upon it, and that the most knowing persons, to whom I shown them, could not tell me what the Characters meant; which makes me think it is very ancient. The piece weighs 25 Grains, which comes to three of our Sous, one Denier, and one halfpenny. This is all that I could collect of most certainty, concerning the Money and Coins of the East, during the long course of my Travels. Nor do I believe that any person has undertaken, before me, to write upon the same Subject. If any one of my Readers desires to see the real Pieces themselves, as well in Gold and Silver, as in Tin, Copper, Shells and Almonds, he may, without question, obtain the Favour from Monsieur, the first Precedent, to whose Study I devoted them all, together with certain Medals, of which that Supreme Senator, most skilful in Antiquity, has great store, being still curious in searching after what is rare. The end of the Coins. TRAVELS IN INDIA. The First Book. What Roads to take, in Travelling from Ispahan to Agra, from Agra to Dehly and Gehanabatt, where the Great Mogul Resides at present: And how to Travel also to the Court of the King of Golconda; to the King of Visapour, and to many other Places in the Indies. CHAP. I. The Road from Ispahan to Agra through Gomron: Where is particularly described the manner of Sailing from Ormus to Suratt. IN this Relation of my Indian, I will observe the same Method as in the Recital of my Persian Travels; and begin with the description of the Roads, which lead you from Ispahan to Dehly and Gehanadatt, where the Great Mogul Resides at present. Though the Indies stretch themselves front Persia for the space of above 400 Leagues together, from the Ocean to that long Chain of Mountains that runs through the middle of Asia from the East to the West, and which was known to Antiquity by the Name of Mount Caucasus, or Mount Taurus; yet there are not so many ways to travel out of Persia into the Indies, as there are to travel out of Turkey into Persia; by reason that between Persia and the Indies there are nothing but vast Sands and Deserts, where there is no water to be found. So that you have but two Roads to choose, in going from Ispahan to Agra. The one is partly by Land, and partly by Sea; taking Ship at Ormus. The other altogether by Land, through Candahar. The first of these two Roads is amply described, as far as Ormus, at the end of my first Book of my Persian Travels. So that I am now only to speak of the manner of Sailing from Ormus to Suratt. There is no Sailing at all times upon the Indian as upon the European Seas: You must observe the proper seasons, which being elapsed, there is no more venturing. The Months of November, December, January, February and March, are the only Months in the year to Embark from Ormus to Suratt; and from Suratt to Ormus: But with this difference, that there is no stirring from Suratt after the end of February; but you may Sail from Ormus till the end of March, or the fifteenth of April: For then the Western-winds, that bring rain along with them into India, begin to blow. During the first four Months there blows a North-east-wind, which carries them from Suratt to Ormus in fifteen or twenty days. Then veering a little to the North, it serves as well for those that are bound for Suratt, as those that are bound from thence. Then the Merchants generally provide for a Voyage of thirty, or five and thirty days. But if they would Sail from Ormus to Suratt in fourteen or fifteen days, they must take Shipping either in March, or at the beginning of April; for then the Western-wind blows full in their Stern. The Vessels which Sail from Ormus run within sight of Mascate upon the Coast of Arabia, bearing off to Sea for fear of coming too near the Persian Coast. They that come from Suratt, do the same thing, to make the Entry of the Gulf. But neither the one nor the other touch at Mascate, to avoid paying Customs to an Arabian Prince, who took that place from the Portugals. Mascate is a City situated just by the Seaside, over against three Rocks that make the Entry into the Harbour very difficult, and at the foot of a Mountain upon which the Portugals have three or four Forts. It is observed that Mascate, Ormus, and Balsara, are the three places in the East where the heat is most insupportable. Formerly only the Hollanders and English understood this Course of Navigation; but some years after the Armonians, Mahometans, Indians, and Banians, have built them Vessels. But it is not so safe to Embark in them, for they neither understand the Sea so well, nor are they so good Pilots. The Vessels that Sail to Suratt, which is the only Part in the Empire of the Great Mogul, Sail within fight of Diu, and the Point of St. John, and come to an Anchor afterwards in the Road of Covali, which is not above four Leagues from Suratt, and two from the Mouth of the River toward the North, They transport their Wares from one place to another, either by Wagons, or in Boats. For great Vessels cannot get into the River of Suratt till they have unladen, by reason of the Sands that choke it up. The Hollanders return as soon as they have landed their Wares at Covali, and so do the English, it not being permitted to either to enter into the River. But some years since, the King has given the English a place to Winter in, during the rainy Seasons. Suratt is a City of an indifferent bigness, defended by a pitiful Fortress, by the foot whereof you must pass, whither you go by Land or by Water. It has four Towers at the four Corners, and in regard there are no Platforms upon the Walls, Guns are planted upon wooden-scaffolds. The Governor of the Fort only commands the Soldiers in the Fort, but has no Power in the City, which has a particular Governor to receive the King's Customs, and other Revenues through the Extent of his Province. The Walls of the Town are only of Earth, and the generality of the Houses like Barns, being built of Reeds, plastered with Cowdung, to cover the void spaces, and to hinder them without from discerning between the Reeds what is done within. In all Suratt there be but nine or ten Houses which are well built: whereof the Cha-bander, or chief of the Merchants has two or three. The rest belong to the Mahometan Merchants; nor are those, wherein the English and Hollanders dwell less beautiful; every Precedent, and every Commander, being careful to repair them; which they put upon the account of their Companies. However, they do but hire those Houses; the King not suffering any Frank to have an House of his own, for fear he should make a Fortress of it. The Capuchin Friars have built them a very convenient Convent, according to the Model of our European Houses, and a fair Church; for the building of which, I furnished them with good part of the Money. But the Purchase was made in the Name of a Maronite Merchant of Aleppo, whose Name was Chelebi, of whom I have spoken in my Persian Relations. CHAP. II. Of the Customs, Money, Exchange, Weights and Measures of the Indians. TO avoid Repetitions, which cannot be shunned in the Course of long Travels; it behoves me to let the Reader understand what belongs to the Custom-houses, Money, Exchange, Weights and Measures of the Indians. When your Commodities are unladen at Suratt, you must carry them to the Custom-house adjoining to the Fort. They are very severe, and very exact in searching the people. Particular Merchants pay from four to five per Cent at the Custom-house for all sorts of Ware. But for the English and Holland-Company; they pay less: But I believe if they did but cast up what it costs them in Deputations and Presents which they are obliged every year to send to the Court, they would not pay much less for their Wares, than particular Merchants. Gold and Silver pay two in the Hundred, and when it is brought into the Custom-house, the Master of the Mint comes and takes it, and Coins it into the Money of the Country. They agree with him upon the day wherein he will undertake to return the new Pieces: And for so many days as he makes them stay after that, he pays them Interest, according to the proportion of the Silver which he receives. The Indians are very subtle and crafty in matters of Money and Payments; three or four years after the Silver is coined, it loses half per Cent. and goes at the same rate as old Silver; for, say they, it is impossible but that it should lose in passing through so many hands. You may carry all sorts of Silver into the Dominions of the Great Mogul. For in all the Frontier Cities there is a Mint, where it is purified to the highest perfection, as is all the Gold and Silver in India, by the King's Command, and coined into Money. Silver in Bars, or old Plate, which is bought without paying for the fashion, is the Silver by which you shall lose least: For as for coined Silver, there is no avoiding the loss of the Coinage. All their bargains are made, with a condition to pay in coined Silver, within the present year .. And if you make payment in old Silver, you must resolve to lose according to the time since it was first-coined. In all places far remote from Cities, where the vulgar people have no great knowledge in Silver, and where there are no Changers, they will not receive a piece of Silver, without putting it in the fire, to try whether it be good or no: And this is the common practice at all Ferries and passages over Rivers. In regard their Boats are only made of Ofier, covered over with an Oxhide, and by consequence are very light; they keep them in the Woods, and will not take them upon their shoulders, till they have received their Money. As for their Gold, the Merchants have so many cunning tricks to hid it, that it seldom comes to the knowledge of the Customers. They do all they can to shift off paying the Customs; and that, so much the rather, because they do not run so much hazard as at the Custom-houses of Europe. For in the Indian Custom-houses, if a man be caught in the fraud, he is quitted by paying double; ten in the hundred; instead of five: The King comparing the venture of the Merchant to a game at Hazard, where he plays quit or double. The King had granted to the English Captains, that they should not be searched when they came ashore. But one day one of the English Captains going to Tata, one of the greatest Cities in India, a little above the Mouth of the River Indou, as he was going to pass the River, he was stopped by the Officers of the Custom-house, who searched and rifled him; whatever he could allege to the contrary. They found Gold about him, of which he had already carried off several quantities, at several times, that he had gone from his Ship to the City; but they quitted him, upon paying the usual Custom. The Englishman, vexed at such an affront, resolved to revenge himself; which he did after a very pleasant manner. He caused a sucking-pig to be roasted, and putting it, together with the dripping, and sauce, in a China-platter, covered with a linen-cloth, he gave it a Slave to bring along after him to the City; imagining what would fall out. As it passed before the Custom-house, while the Governors or the Cha-bander, and the Mintmaster were sitting in the Divan, they failed not to stop him; and as the Slave went forward with the Plate covered, they told his Master that he must come into the Custom-house, and that they must see what he carried. The more the Englishman cried, that the Slave carried nothing that paid any duties, the less he was believed; so that after a long debate he took the Plate from his Slave, and carried it himself into the Divan; the Governor and the Cha-bander, gravely asked him, why he would not be obedient to the Laws? Upon which the Englishman, replying in a great heat, that he carried nothing which paid any duty, threw the Pig among them with such a fury, that the Sauce and Pig flew all upon their Garments. Now in regard that Swines-flesh is an abomination to the Mahometans, who believe every thing defiled that touches it; they were forced to change their Clothes, take down the Tapestry of the Divan, to pull down the Divan itself, and build another, not daring to say any thing to the Englishman; for the Cha-bander, and Mintmaster are very observant to the Company, by whom they reap a great deal of profit. As for what concerns the Heads of the Companies, as well English, as Dutch, and their Associates, they have so great a respect for them, that they never search them at all, when they come ashore; though they will not stick to conceal their Gold, like particular Merchants, and to carry it about them. The Trade of Tata; formerly very great, gins now to decay, because the Mouth of the Rivers grows more dangerous, and full of shallows every day more than other, the Sand-hills having almost choked it up. The English finding they had learned the trick of rifling their Clothes, studied out other little ways and contrivances to conceal their Gold: And the fashion of wearing Periwigs being newly come out of Europe, they hide their Jacobus', Rose-Nobles, and Ducats in the net of their Periwigs, every time they came ashore. There was a Merchant that had a mind to convey some boxes of Coral into Suratt, without the knowledge of the Customers. He swum then into the Town, some days before the Ship was unladed, when it might be done securely before the Customers had any suspicion of any thing. But the Merchant repent him afterwards, the Commodity being spoiled. For the water of Suratt River being always thick and muddy, there clung to the Coral, which had lain a long time in the water, a slime like a white crust or skin, which was difficult to be got off; so that after the Coral was polished, he lost by it above twelve per Cent. I come now to the Money which goes for currant through the whole extent of the Great Mogul's Dominions; and to all the sorts of Gold and Silver, which is carried thither in Ingots to make profit thereof. In the first place you must observe that it is very profitable to buy Gold and Silver which has been wrought, to melt it into Ingots, and to refine it to the highest purity: For being refined, you pay not for the portage of the Alloy, which was mixed with it before: And carrying the Gold and Silver in wedges, you pay neither to the Prince nor to the Mint what they exact for Coinage. If you carry coined Gold, the best pieces are Jacobus', Rose-Nobles, Albertus', and other ancient Pieces, as well of Portugal, as of other Countries, and all sorts of Gold that have been coined in former Ages. For by all those old Pieces the Merchant is sure to gain. You may also reckon for good Gold, and which is proper to be carried thither, all the Ducats of Germany, as well those coined by the several Princes, as by the Imperial Towns, together with the Ducats of Poland, Hungary, Swedeland and Danemark; and indeed all sorts of Ducats are taken to be of the same goodness. The Venetian Ducats of Gold formerly passed for the best, and were worth four or five of our Sous, more than any others; but about a dozen years ago they seem to have been altered, not going now for any more than the rest. There are also Ducats which the Grand Signior coins at Cairo, and those of Sally, and Morocco: But these three sorts are not so good as the others, and are not worth so much as they by four Sous of our Money. Over all the Empire of the Great Mogul, all the Gold and Silver is weighed with weights, which they call Tolla; which weigh nine Dinars, and eight grains of our weights. When they have any quantity of Gold and Silver to sell, the Indians use yellow Copper-weights, with the King's mark, to avoid cozenage. And with these weights they weigh all the Gold and Silver at once, provided it amount not to above a hundred Tollas. For the Changers have no other weights, but from one Tolla to a hundred; and a hundred Tollas come to 38 Ounces, 21 Dinars, and 8 Grains. As for the Gold and Silver which is not coined, if there be much, they essay it; and having put it to the touch, they bid to the utmost value to outvie one another. In regard there are some Merchants that have above forty or fifty thousand Ducats at a time, the Indians weigh them with a weight which is just the weight of a hundred Ducats, which is also marked with the Kings Mark, and if the hundred Ducats weigh less than the weights, they put in so many little stones till the Scales are even; and after all is weighed, they make good to the Changer the weight of those little stones. But before they weigh these Gold-Coins, whether they be Ducats or other Pieces, they put the whole quantity into a Charcoal-fire, till they be red-hot; and then quench the fire with water, and take them out again. This they do to find out them which are false, and to melt off the Wax and Gum, which is cunningly dropped upon them to make them weigh the more. But because there are some Pieces so artfully hollowed and stopped up again, that you cannot perceive it, though they have been in the fire, the Changers take the Pieces, and bend them; by which they know whether they are good or no; and those which they suspect they cut in pieces. After they have viewed them all, they refine those which they do not take to be good, and pay for so much as proves to be good, as for good Ducats. All this Gold they coin into that sort of Money which they call Roupies of Gold; except those Ducats, which are stamped only upon one side, which they sell to the Merchants that come from Tartary, and other Northern Parts, as from the Kingdoms of Boutan, Ason, and other remote parts. With these Ducats, the Women of those Countries chief adorn themselves, hanging them upon their Head-attire, and fixing them upon their foreheads. As for the other Ducats, that have no figures, they are not so much as enquired after by the Northern Merchants. As for all the other Pieces of Gold, there are great quantities of them fold to the Goldsmiths, to the Gold-wyar-drawers, and in general to all that work in Gold. For if they could put their Metal unmade into Roupies, they would never coin; which they can only do at the Coronation of their Kings, to throw Silver Roupies among the people; or to sell them to the Governors of the Provinces, and other Grandees of the Court, who then want great quantities of them to present to the new King at his first coming to his Throne. For they have not always Jewels or other things rich enough to present him, as well as that time, as at another Festival, of which I shall speak in due place, when they weigh the King every year. At such times I say, they are very glad of Gold Roupies; as also to present to such Favourites at the Court, by whose interest they hope to gain higher Commands, and more considerable Governments. In one of my Travels, I found by experience the virtue of these Roupies of Gold. Cha-jehan, Father of Orang-zeb who now reigns, had given to one of the Lords of his Court, the Government of the Province of Tata, whereof Symdi is the Metropolis. Now though the very first year of his Government, there were very great complaints made against him, by reason of the Tyranny which he exercised over his people, and his great extortions, the King suffered him to continue four years, and then recalled him. All the people of Tata were overjoyed, believing the King had called him away, only to put him to death; but it fell out quite otherwise; for the King caressed him, and gave him the Government of Halabas, more considerable than that which he had quitted. This kind reception, which he had at the King's hands, proceeded from this, that before he came to Agra, he had sent before him a present of 50000 Roupies of Gold, and about 20000 Roupies of Gold more to Begum-Saheb, who had then the whole power in her hands; as also to other Ladies and Lords at the Court, to support his Reputation. All the Courtiers are very desirous to have a great quantity of Gold; because it lies in a little room, and then because they covet, as a great Honour, to leave vast Sums behind them, to their Wives and Children, of which the King must not know. For as I shall tell you in another place, when any great Lord dies, the King is Heir to all his Estate; his Wife having no more than his Jewels. But to return to our Roupies of Gold; you must take notice, that they are not so currant among the Merchants. For in regard one of them is not worth above fourteen Roupies, which make one and twenty Livres of our Money, at thirty Sous the Rupee, and that there are sew of these Roupies of Gold to be had, but in the Houses of Great Men; when it falls out that they make any payment, they will put them at a Rupee of Silver, or at least at a sourth part of a Rupee more than it is worth, which will never turn to the Merchant's profit. Cha-Est-Kan the King's Uncle, to whom I had sold a parcel of Goods at 96000 Roupies, when he came to pay me, asked me what Money I would be content to take, whether Gold or Silver. Before I could return him an answer, he added, that if I would leave it to him, I should take Gold Roupies: Nor did he give me this advice, but because he believed it would turn to his advantage: I told him I would be ruled by him; thereupon he caused his Servants to tell me out so many Roupies in Gold, as made up the just Sum which was due: But he would force me to take the Rupee in Gold for fourteen Roupies and an half in Silver, though among the Merchants they went but for fourteen. I was not ignorant of it; but I thought it best to receive my Money according to the Prince's humour, in hopes he might make me amends another time, either for the whole, or part of what I might lose. I let him alone two days, after which I went to him again, and told him I had tried to put off his Roupies at the price I had received them; so that in the payment of 96000 Roupies, I had lost 3428 and one 16 th'. the Rupee of Gold which he forced me to take at fourteen Roupies and an half of Silver, being worth but fourteen. Thereupon he fell into a passion, and told me he would see as many Lashes bestowed upon the Changer, or Holland-Broker, whose fault soever it were; that he would teach them to understand Money; that they were old Roupies, and were worth more by a sixteenth part of a Silver Rupee, than the Roupies which were coined at that time. In regard I knew the humour of the Asiatic Princes, with whom there is no contesting, I let him say what he pleased; but when he came to himself, and began to put on a smiling look, I desired him that he would be pleased to let me return the Sum which I had received, the next day; or else that he would be pleased to pay me what was wanting, and that I would take a Rupee at 14 and one 16 th'. since he assured me they were worth so much. The Prince for a while gave me a scurvy look, not so much as speaking one word. At length he asked me, whether I had still the Pearl, which he had refused to buy. I told him I had, and immediately pulled it out of my Bosom, and gave it him. The Pearl was large, and of a good water, but ill-shaped; which was the reason he refused it before. When I had given it to him, well, said he, let us talk no more of what is past; how much will you have, in a word, for this Pearl? I asked him seven thousand Roupies, and indeed rather than I would have carried it into France, I would have taken three. If I give thee, said he, seven thousand Roupies for this Pearl, I shall make thee amends for the loss thou complainest of in the first bargain. Come to Morrow, and I will give thee five thousand Roupies, and that's very fair: Thou shalt have also a Calaat and an Horse. I made my obeisance to him, and desired him to give me an Horse that should be young, and fit for service, because I had a great journey to take. The next day he sent me a Robe, a Cloak, two Girdles, and a Cap; which is all the Apparel that the Princes are wont to give to those to whom they intent any Honour. The Cloak and Robe was of Satin purfled with Gold; the two Girdles stripped with Gold and Silver; the Cap was of Calicut, died into a Flame-colour, with stripes of Gold: The Horse had no Saddle, but was covered with a green Velvet foot-cloth, edged about with a small Silver-fringe. The Bridle was very straight, with Silver-studs in some places. I believe the Horse had never been backed; for so soon as I brought him to the Holland-House, where I then lodged, a young man got upon his back; but he was no sooner on, but the Horse fling and pranced at that rate, that having kicked down an Hutt that stood in the Court, he had like to have killed the Hollander. Finding that such a Resty-Horse was not for my turn, I sent him back to Cha-est-Kan, and relating the Story to him, I told him I did not believe that he desired I should return into my Country to bring him back some rarities which I had promised him, as he made me believe he did. All the while I talked, he laughed, and afterwards sent for the Horse which his Father in his life time used to ride upon. It was a tall Persian Horse, that had formerly cost five thousand Crowns, but was then twenty eight years old. They brought him bridled and saddled, and the Prince would needs have me get up in his presence. He had one of the most stately walks that ever I knew in a Horse; and when I alighted, well, said he, art thou satisfied? I dare say, that Horse will never give thee a fall. I thanked him, and at the same time took my leave of him; and the next day, before my departure, he sent me a great Basket of Apples. It was one of the six that Cha-jehan had sent him, as they came from the Kingdom of Kachemir; there was in the Basket also a great Persian Melon: All this might be worth a hundred Roupies, which I presented to the Holland Commanders Wife. As for the Horse, I road him to Golconda, where I sold him for five hundred Roupies, as old as he was, being a good lusty Beast. To return to our discourse of Money, I will add this to what I have said already, that you must never carry Louis' of Gold to the Indies, nor Spanish nor Italian Pistols, nor any other sort of Money coined within these few years; for there is great loss by it; for the Indians refine all, and count only upon the refinings. Lastly, every one strives to steal the custom of their Gold; and when the Merchant has got the knack of concealing it, he may gain five or six of our Sous in every Ducat. I come now to the sorts of Silver Money; which you must distinguish into Money of the Country, and Foreign Money: And first of the Foreign Coins. The Foreign Silver Coins which are carried into the Indies, are the Rixdollars of Germany and the Reals of Spain. The first are brought by the Merchants that come from Poland, from the Lesser Tartary, and the Borders of Muscovia. The others by those that come from Constantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo, and the greatest part by the Armenians, who sell their Silk into Europe. All these Merchant's endeavour to convey their Silver through Persia without being discovered; for if the Customers find it out, they will be forced to carry their Silver to the Mint-Masters to be coined into Abassi's, which is the King's Coin; and these Abassi s being carried into India, are again coined into Roupies, whereby the Merchant loses ten and a quarter per Cent. as well by reason of the coinage, as by paying the King's duties in Persia. To let you understand in a few words, how they came to lose this ten and a quarter per Cent. from Persia to the Indies, and sometimes more, according to the nature of the Reals, which they usually carry into Persia; you must call to mind, what I have already said concerning the Money and Exchanges of Persia, in the first Volume. I observed, that a Real in Persia goes for 23 Chaez, which make three Abasses and a quarter; and that sometimes, when Silver is scarce, they will give a Chaez and a half for one. That the Abassi is worth four Chaez, and the Toman fifty Abassi's, or two hundred Chaez. If you carry six Tomans and a half to the Indies, you have for every Toman twenty-nine Roupies and a half; and consequently for six Tomans and a half, a hundred and ninety-one Roupies and a quarter. If you carry to the Indies Reals of Sevilo, for a hundred you shall have from 213 to 215 Roupies. If you carry Mexican Reals, for a hundred you shall have no more than 212. So that when for a hundred Reals you have but two hundred and twelve Roupies, you gain ten Reals and a quarter, in an hundred Reals; but by the Sevillian Reals you profit eleven per Cent. There are three or four sorts of Spanish Reals, and they give for a hundred according to their goodness, from 218 to 214 and 215 Roupies. The best of all are those of Sevil, for when they are full weight, they will give for a hundred, 213 Roupies; and sometimes 215, according as Silver is either scarce or plentiful. The Real of Spain ought to weigh three Drams, seven Grains and a half more than two Roupies. But the Silver of the Roupies is much better. For the Roupy is in weight eleven Dinars and fourteen Grains; but the Sevil Real, like our white Crown, is but just eleven Dinars. The Mexican Real goes at ten Dinars and twenty-one Grains. For the Spanish Real, that weighs seventy-three Vals, you have four Mamoudi's and a half, and one Mamoudi is worth twenty Pecha's; but they must be very good, and as I have said already, seventy-three Vals in weight: eighty-one Vals making an Ounce, one Val coming to seven Dinars. For the Rixdollars of Germany, in regard they are heavier than the Reals, they will give you for an hundred, as high as an hundred and sixteen Roupies. Where you are to take notice, that in giving for an hundred Reals, or an hundred Rixdollars, two hundred and fifteen, or two hundred and sixteen Roupies, it seems that every Roupy aught to be worth less than thirty Sous. But if the Merchant count the portage of the Silver, and the Customs, he will find that every Roupy will stand him in more. But that the Merchant may make his profit, he must take notice, that all the Reals of Mexico, and those of Sevil, are in weight one and twenty Dinars and eight Grains, that is, five hundred and twelve Grains; and for those that are no better than our white Crown, they are to be in weight one and twenty Dinars and three Grains, which makes five hundred and nine Grains. All Dollars and Reals are weighed, a hundred at a time, and when they are wanting in weight, they add little stones, as when they weigh Gold, according to what I shall tell you by and by. We come now to the Money of the Country. The Indian Money is the Silver Roupy, the Half, Quarter, Eighteenth and Sixteenth part. The weight of the Roupy is nine Dinars and one Grain; the value of the Silver is eleven Dinars and fourteen Grains. They have also another sort of Silver Money, which they call Mamoudi's, but this goes nowhere but in Surat, and in the Province of Guzerat. The Indians have also a sort of small Copper Money, which is called Pecha; which is worth about two of our Liards, a Liard being the fourth part of a Sous. There is also the Half Pecha, two Pecha's, and Four Pecha's. According to the custom of the Province where you travel, you have for a Roupy of Silver more or less of these Pecha's. In my last Travels, a Roupy went at Surat for nine and forty Pecha's. But the time was, when it was worth fifty, and another time, when it went but for six and forty. At Agra and Gehanabat, the Roupy was valued at fifty-five and fifty-six Pecha's. And the reason is, because the nearer you go to the Copper Mines, the more Pecha's you have for a Roupy. As for the Mamoudi, it is always valued at forty Pecha's. There are two other sorts of small Money in the Dominions of the Great Mogul, which are little bitter Almonds and Shells. These little bitter Almonds, which are brought out of Persia, are only made use of in the Province of Guzeratt; as I have observed in the first part of my Relations. They grow in dry and barren places among the Rocks, and the Tree, that bears them, is almost like our Bastard Spanish-Broom. They call these Almonds Baden: Nor is there any Coloquintida so bitter. They give for a Pecha sometimes thirty five, and sometimes forty. Their other small Money are the little Shells which they call Cori; the sides whereof turn circularly inward: Nor are they to be found in any part of the World, but in the Maldives Islands. They are the greatest part of the Revenue of the King of that Island. For they are transported into all the Territories of the Oreat Mogul; into the Kingdoms of Visapour and Golconda; and into the Islands of America to serve instead of Money. Near the Sea they give 80 for a Pecha. But the further you go from the Sea, the less you have; so that at Agra, they will not give you above 50 or 55 for a Pecha. As to what remains according to the Account of the Indians, 100000 Roupies make a Lekke. 100000 Lekks make a Kraur. 100000 Kraurs make a Padan. 100000 Padan's make a Nil. In the Indies, the Village must be very small, where there does not reside a Banker, whom they call Cheraff; whose business it is to remit Money and Bills of Over all the Empire of the Great Mogul and in other parts of India the Idolaters, though they differ in their languages, make use of these sort of cifers 1 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 11 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 21 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 31 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 41 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 2 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 12 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 22 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 32 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 42 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 3 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 13 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 23 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 33 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 43 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 4 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 14 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 24 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 34 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 44 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 5 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 15 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 25 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 35 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 45 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 6 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 16 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 26 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 36 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 46 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 7 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 17 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 27 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 37 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 47 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 8 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 18 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 28 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 38 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 48 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 9 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 19 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 29 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 39 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 49 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 10 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 20 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 30 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 40 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 50 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 100 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 1000 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 10000 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 20000 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 100000 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 1000000 Exchange. In regard that these Bankers hold a Correspondence with the Governors of the Province, they raise as they please themselves, the Rupee for the Pecha's, and the Pecha's for the Shells. All the Jews that deal in Money and Exchange in the Empire of the Grand Signior, are accounted a most subtle sort of people. But in the Indies they would be scarce thought fit to be Apprentices to these Bankers. They have one very bad custom in making of Payments: And I have already observed it, in reference to their Roupies of Gold. When they make any Payment in that sort of money, they tell ye, 'twas a great while ago that any Silver Rupee was coined; that they are worth less than those which are new, or but lately coined; for that by passing through many hands they wear away, and become lighter. And therefore when you make any bargain, you must always agree to be paid in Roupies Cha-jenni, that is, in new Silver; otherwise, they will pay you in Roupies coined some fifteen or twenty years ago, and upward; whereby you will lose four in the hundred. For they will have one fourth, or at least one eighth per Cent. allowed for those that were coined but two years before: So that the poor people that cannot read the year wherein the Roupies were coined, are subject to be cheated; for they will always abate a Pecha or half a Pecha upon a Rupee, or three or four Cori's upon a Pecha. As for counterfeit Silver, there is very little among them. If you receive one false Rupee in a Bag from any particular person, 'tis better to cut it to pieces, and lose it, than to speak of it; for if it should come to be known, there might be danger in it. For you are commanded by the King's Law to return the Bag where you received it; and to return it from one to another, till you can find out the Counterfeiter; who, if he be apprehended, is only sentenced to lose his hand. If the Counterfeiter cannot be found, and that it be thought that he who paid the Money is not guilty, he is acquitted upon some small amercement. This brings great profit to the Changers. For when there is any Sum of Money received or paid, the Merchant's cause him to look it over, and for their pains, they have one sixteenth of a Rupee in the hundred. As for the Money which is paid out of the Sarquet, or King's Exchequer, there is never any found that is counterfeit: For all the Money that is carried in thither, is exactly viewed by the King's Bankers: The Great Lords have also their particular Bankers. Before they put up the Money into the Treasury, they throw it into a great Charcoal-fire, and when the Roupies are red-hot, they quench the fire, by throwing water upon it; and then take out the Money. If there be any Piece that is white, or that has the least mark of Alloy, it is presently cut in pieces. As often as these Roupies are carried into the Treasury, they mark the Pieces with a Puncheon, which makes an hole, but not quite through; and there are some Pieces that have seven or eight holes made in that manner, to show that they have been so many times in the Exchequer. They are all put, a thousand Pieces together, in a bag, sealed with the Seal of the great Treasurer; and the number of years superscribed, since they were coined. And here you are to take notice, whence the Treasurer's profit arises, as well that of the King's Treasurer, as that of the particular Treasurers of the Great Lords of the Kingdom. When there is any bargain made, they agree for new Roupies coined the same year: but when they come to receive the payment, the Treasurers will make it in old Roupies, wherein there is a loss of six per Cent. So that if they will have new Silver, the Merchants must compound with the Treasurer. In my fift Voyage, I went to visit Cha-Est-Kan according to my promise, to let him have the first sight of what I brought along with me. So that as soon as I arrived at Suratt, I sent him word; and received his Orders to meet him at Choupart, a City in the Province of Decan, to which he had laid Siege. Coming to him, in a little time, and a few words, I sold him the greatest part of what I had brought along with me out of Europe: And he told me that he expected every day, that Money should be sent him from Suratt to pay the Army, and to pay me also at the same time for what he had bought of me. I could not imagine however, that so great a Prince as he, that commanded so great an Army, had not store of Money by him; but rather conjectured, that he had an intention to make me some abatement, upon those Pieces which he would put upon me in payment, as he had served me before. It fell out, as I faresaw. But for Provisions for myself, my Men, and my Horses, he took such order, that there was great plenty brought me, night and morning, and for the most part he sent for me myself, to his own Table. Ten or twelve days thus passed away, and not a word of the Money that I expected: So that being resolved to take my leave of him, I went to his Tent. He appeared to be somewhat surprised, and looking upon me with a frowning-brow; wherefore will you be gone, said he, before you are paid? or who d'ye think, shall pay you afterwards, if you go away before you receive your Money? Upon these words, with a countenance as stern as his, my King, replied I, will see me paid. For his goodness is such, that he causes all his Subjects to be paid, that have not received satisfaction for such Goods as they sell in foreign Countries. And what course will he take, answered he in a great choler: with two or three stout Men of War, said I, which he will send either to the Port of Suratt, or toward the Coasts to wait for the Ships that come from Mocca. He seemed to be nettled at that reply, but not daring to give any more way to his choler, he ordered his Treasurer immediately to give me a Letter of Exchange to Aurengabad. I was the more glad of that, because it was a place through which I was to pass in my way to Golcanda; besides that, it would spare me the carriage and the hazards of my Money. The next day I had my Bill of Exchange, and took leave of the Prince, who was nothing displeased, but told me, that if I returned to the Indies, I should not fail to come and see him, which I did in my sixth and last Voyage. When I came to Suratt, he was at Bengala, where I sold him all the rest of my Goods that I could not put off either to the King of Persia, or the Great Mogul. But to return to the payment of my Money, I was no sooner arrived at Aurenggabat, but I went to find the great Treasurer; who no sooner saw me, but he told me, he knew wherefore I came; that he had received Letters of advice three days before, and that he had already taken the Money out of the Treasury to pay me. When he had brought me all the Bags, I caused my Banker to open them, who saw them to be Roupies, by which I was to lose two in the hundred. Upon that I thanked the Treasurer very hearty, telling him, I understood no such dealing, and that I would send and complain of him to Cha-Est-Kam; and declare to him, that he should either give order that I should be paid in new Silver, or else let me have my Goods again, which I presently did. But not receiving an answer so soon as I knew I might have done, I went to the Treasurer, and told him, I would go myself, and fetch away my Goods. I believe he had received order what to do; for seeing I was resolved to go; he told me he was very unwilling I should put myself to so much trouble, and that it would be better for us to agree among ourselves. After many contests about the two in the hundred, which he would have made me lose, I was contented to abate one, and had lost the other, had I not happily met with a Banker who wanted Silver, and had a Bill of Exchange to pay at Golconda; so that he was glad to make use of mine, and gave me a Bill to be paid at Golconda, being my full Sum, at fifteen days fight. The Changers to try their Silver, make use of thirteen little pieces, one half Copper, and the other Silver, which are their Says. The manner how their thirteen Say-pieces are filled; the upper-half being Copper, and the lowerhalf Silver. These thirteen pieces differing all in goodness, they never make use of them, but when any question arises concerning a small quantity of Silver, or of any wrought Silver. For they refine all their great quantities. All that kind of Silver is bought by the weight which they call Tolla, which weighs nine Dinars, and eight Grains, or 32 Val's; 81 Val's, making an Ounce: So that an hundred Tollas make 38 Ounces, 21 Dinars, and 8 Grains. See here the differences of the thirteen Goodnesses of Silver. THE first, which is the lowest in goodness, they take at fifteen Pecha's to the Tolla, which makes of our Money nine Sous, two Dinars. The second, at eighteen Pecha's, which make ten Sous, two Dinars. The third, at ten Pecha's, which make twelve Sous, six Dinars. The fourth, at thirteen Pecha's, which make fourteen Sous, six Dinars. The fift, at sixteen Pecha's, which make fifteen Sous, ten Dinars. The sixth, at nineteen Pecha's, which make seventeen Sous, six Dinars. The seventh, at thirty-three Pecha's, which make nineteen Sous, two Dinars. The eighth, at thirtyfive Pecha's, which make twenty Sous, ten Dinars. The ninth, at thirty-eight Pecha's, which make twentytwo Sous, six Dinars. The tenth, at forty Pecha's, which make twenty-four Sous, two Dinars. The eleventh, at forty-three Pecha's, which make twenty-five Sous, ten Dinars. The twelfth, at forty-six Pecha's, which make twenty-seven Sous, six Dinars. The thirteenth, at forty-nine Pecha's, which make nineteen Sous, two Dinars. Here it will not be amiss to give you an hint, how far the cunning extends, not only of the Cheraffs or Changers, but of all the Indians in general; and it shall suffice to give you one example, which is very particular, and of which our Europeans make no account: Which is this; that of all the Gold, which remains upon the stone upon which they make the Essay, and of which we make no reckoning, they are so far from losing the least atom of that small matter, that they fetch it all off, by means of a Ball made half of Blackpitch, and half of Soft-wax, with which they rub the stone that carries the Gold; at the end of some years the Ball will shine, and then they get our all the Gold that sticks to it. This Ball is about the bigness of one of our Tennis-Balls; and the Stone is such a one as our Goldsmiths generally use. Thus much of the Custom-houses and Money currant among the Indians. It remains to speak of their manner of Exchange. As all the Goods which are made in the Empire of the Great Mogul, and some part of the Kingdoms of Golconda and Visapour are brought to Suratt to be transported into several parts of Asia and Europe; the Merchants, when they go from Surat to buy Commodities in the several Cities where they are made, as at Lahor, Agra, Amadabat, Seronge, Brampour, Daca, Patna, Banarou, Golconda, Decan, Visapour, and Dult ab at, take up Money at Surat, and are discharged at the places where they go by giving kind for kind. But when it happens that the Merchant is short of Money in those places, and that there is a necessity for him to take up Money to complete his Markets, he must then return it at Suratt within two Months, paying monthly for the Change. From Lahor to Suratt the Exchange goes at six and a quarter per Cent. From Amadabat, from one, to one and an half. From Seronga, at three. From Brampour, from two and an half, to three. From Daca, at ten. From Banarou, at six. From the three last places they make their Bills of Exchange only to Agra; and at Agra they make others for Suratt, the whole at the same price as I have set down. From Golconda, from four to five. And for Goa the same. From Decan at three. From Visapour at three. From Dultabat, from one to one and an half. Some years the Exchange rises from one to two per Cent. by reason of certain rajas or petty Vassal Princes that disturb Trade, every one pretending that the Merchandizes ought to pass through his Country, and pay Toll. There are two particularly between Agra and Amadabatt, the one called the Raja of Antivar, and the other the Raja of Bergam, who very much molest the Merchants for this very cause. But you may avoid passing through the Territories of these Princes, taking another road from Agra to Suratt, through Seronge and Brampour. But they are fertile Lands, divided with several Rivers, without Bridges or Boats, and it is impossible to go that way, till two months after the rains are fallen. Which is the reason that those Merchants who must be at Suratt when the season permits them to take the Sea, are forced to pass through the Territories of these two rajas, because they can pass that way at all times, even in the time that the reins fall, which only knit and harden the Sand. Nor are you to wonder that the Exchange runs so high; for they that trust out their Money, run the hazard, by obligation, of losing their Money, if the Merchants should be robbed. When you come to Suratt to Embark, there is Money enough. For it is the greatest Trade of the Grandees of the Indies to venture their Money by Sea from thence for Ormus, Balsara, and Mocca; nay even as far as Bantam, Achen, and the Philippine Islands. For Mocca and Balsara, the change runs from 22 to 24 per Cent. And to Ormus, from 16 to 20. And to the other places which I have named, the change runs proportionable to the distance. I have but one word to say of their Weights and Measures; I have given you in the Margin the fift part of an Ell of Agra, and the fourth part of an Ell of Amadabat and Suratt. As for their Weights, the Men is generally 69 Pound, and the Pound 16 Ounces. But the Men which they weigh their Indigo withal, is but 53 Pound. At Suratt they talk of a Serre, which is one and three fourth's of a Pound, and the Pound is 16 Ounces. CHAP. III. Of their Carriages, and the manner of Travelling in India. BEfore we set forward upon the road, it will be convenient to speak of their Carriages, and the manner of travelling in India; which, in my opinion, is more commodious than any thing that has been invented for ease in France or Italy. Quite otherwise it is in Persia, where they neither make use of Asses, Mules, or Horses, but transport all their Wares to the Indies upon Oxen, or in Wains, their Country's being so near to one another. If any Merchant carries an Horse out of Persia, 'tis only for show, or to walk in his hand, or to sell to some Indian Prince. They will lay upon an Ox's back 300, or 350 pound weight. And it is a wonderful thing to see ten or twelve thousand Oxen at a time all laden with Rice, Corn and Salt, in such places where they exchange these Commodities: Carrying Corn where only Rice grows, Rice where only Corn grows, and Salt where there is none at all. They make use of Camels sometimes, but very rarely, they being particularly appointed to carry the luggage of great Personages. When the season requires haste, and that they would speedily convey their Merchandise to Suratt to ship them off, they load them upon Oxen, and not in Wains. And in regard that the Territories of the Great Mogul are very well manured, the Fields are fenced with very good Ditches; and to every Field there belongs a Pond to preserve the water. There is this great inconvenience for Travellers; that when they meet with these numerous Caravans in straight places, they are forced to stay two or three days till they are all past by. They that drive these Oxen, follow no other Calling as long as they live, nor do they dwell in houses; yet they carry their Wives and Children along with them. There are some among them that have an hundred Oxen of their own, others more or less; and they have always one, who is their Chief, that takes as much state as a Prince, and has his Chain of Pearl hanging about his neck. When the Caravan that carries the Corn, and that which carries the Salt happen to meet, rather than yield the road, they frequently enter into very bloody Disputes. The Great Mogul considering one day that these quarrels were very prejudicial to Trade, and the transportation of necessary Provisions from place to place, sent for the two Chiefs of the Caravan, and after he had exhorted them, for the common good and their own interest, to live quietly together, and not to quarrel and fight when they met, gave to each of them a Leck, or an hundred thousand Roupies, and a Chain of Pearl. That the Reader may the better understand the manner of travelling in the Indies, he is to take notice, that among the Idolaters of that Country there are four Tribes, which are called Manari's, each of which may consist of an hundred thousand Souls. These people live always in Tents, and live only upon the transporting of Merchandise from Country to Country. The first of these Tribes carry nothing but Corn, the second Rice, the third Pulse, and the fourth Salt, which they fetch from Suratt, and all along from as far as Cape-Camorin. These Tribes are also distinguished in this manner: Their Priests, of whom I shall speak in another place, mark the foreheads of the first, with a red-Gum, about the breadth of a Crown; and then they draw a streak all the length of his nose, sticking grains of Wheat upon it, sometimes ten, and sometimes twelve. Those of the second Tribe are marked with yellow-Gum in the same place, with grains of Rice. Those of the third are marked with a grey-Gum, down to the shoulders, and grains of Millet. Those of the fourth Tribe carry tied about their necks a Bag, with a great lump of Salt in it, weighing sometimes eight or ten pounds, (for the heavier it is, the more they glory in carrying it;) and with this Bag they thump their stomaches, as a sign of repentance every morning before they say their Prayers. They have all in general a little line or twist, like a Scarf, about their necks at the end whereof hangs a little Silver-box, like a Relique-box, wherein they enclose a little superstitious writing which their Priests give them; they tie them also about their Oxen and other cattle, which are bred in their Herds, for which they have a particular affection, and love them as tenderly as children, especially if they have no children of their own. Their Women wear only a piece of Calicut white or painted, some six or five times doubled from their wastes downward. From their wastes upward they cut their flesh into several forms of Flowers, as they do that apply Cupping-glasses, which they paint in various colours with the juice of Grapes, that their skin seems to be all made of Flowers. Every morning, while the men load the Beasts, and that the Women fold up the Tents, the Priests that follow them, set up in the most convenient place of the Plain where they lodged a certain Idol in the form of a Serpent in wreaths, upon a Perch six or seven foot high; to which they come all in files to worship, their Women going three times about. After the Ceremony is over, the Priests take care of the Idol, and load it upon an Ox particularly appointed for that purpose. The Caravan of Wagons seldom exceeds the number of an hundred or two hundred at most. Every Wagon is drawn by ten or twelve Oxen; and attended by four Soldiers, which the person that owes the Merchandise is obliged to pay. Two of them march upon each side of the Wagon, over which there are two Ropes thrown across, the ends whereof they hold in their hands, to the end, that if the Wagon come to lean on oneside in illway, the two Soldiers on the other side may keep it from overturning, by pulling the Ropes with all their strength. All the Wagons that come to Suratt, either from Agra, or any other parts of the Empire, and which return through Agra, or Jánabatt, are bound to carry back the Lime that comes from Barocha, which, after it is tempered, and laid on, becomes as hard as Marble. I come now to the manner of travelling in India, to which purpose they make use of Oxen instead of Horses, and there are some, whose pace is as easy as the amble of our Hackneys. But you must take a care, when you either buy or hire an Ox to ride upon, that the horns be not above a foot in length. For if they be longer, when the flies begin to sting, he will chafe, and toss back his horns, and strike them into the stomach of the Rider, as oftentimes it has happened. These Oxen are rid like our Horses, and instead of Snaffles or Bits, they have only a Rope drawn through the muscly part of the muzzle or nostrils. In firm ground where there are no stones, they never shoe their Oxen; but only in rough places, where not only the stones but the heat will waste and chop the hoof. Whereas in Europe we tie our Oxen by the horns, the Indians only put a thick truss upon their necks, that keeps fast a Choler of Leather four fingers broad, which they have nothing to do but to put about their necks when they fasten them to the Wagon. They use also for Travel little Coaches, but very light, that will hold two persons; but generally they ride alone for more ease; carrying only their necessary Cloak-Bags along with them; with a small Vessel of Wine, and a small quantity of Provisions, for which there is a proper place under the Coach, where they tie the two Oxen. These Coaches have their Curtains and Seats like ours, yet are not hung: But in my last Travels I caused one to be made after our manner; and the two Oxen that drew it, cost me near upon sixhundred Roupies. Nor is the Reader to wonder at the price; for there are some of these Oxen that are very strong, and that will travel upon the trot twelve or fifteen leagues a-day for sixty days together. When they have gone half the days journey, they give them two or three Balls, as big as one of our two-penny-loaves, of Wheat kneaded up with butter and black-sugar. The hire of a Coach comes to a Rupee a-day more or less. From Suratt to Agra is forty days journey, and you pay for the whole journey from forty to forty-five Roupies. From Suratt to Golconda, being almost the same distance, the same price is observed; and by the same proportion you may travel over all the Indies. They who have more to spend, for their own ease make use of a Pallanquin, wherein they travel very commodiously. This is a sort of little Couch six or seven foot long, and three broad, with balisters round about it. A sort of Cane; called Bambouc, which they bend like an Arch, sustains the covering of the Pallanquin, which is either of Satin or Cloth of Gold; and when the Sun lies upon one side, a Slave that goes by the side, taketh care to pull down the covering. Another Slave carries at the end of a long stick a kind of Target of Osier, covered over with some gentile stuff, to preserve the person that is in the Pallanquin from the heat of the Sun, when he turns and lies upon his face. The two ends of the Bambouc are fastened on both sides to the body of the Pallanquin between two sticks joined together like a Saltire or St. Andrews-cross, every one of those two sticks being five or six foot long. There are some of these Bamboucs that cost two-hundred Crowns; I myself have paid an hundred and twenty. Three men for the most part apply themselves to each of these two ends to carry the Pallanquin upon their shoulders; some on the right, and some on the left, and they go swifter than our Sedan-men, and with a much more easy pace, as being that which they practice from their youth. You give to every one for all things not above four Roupies a Month; but it stands you in above five if the journey be long, and exceed sixty days labour. Whether it be in Coach, or Pallanquin, he that will travel honourably in the Indies, must take along with him twenty or thirty armed men, with Bows and Arrows some, others with Muskets; and they have the same rate with those that carry the Pallanquin. Sometimes for more magnificence they carry a Banner, as the English and Hollanders do, for the honour of their Companies. These Soldiers are not only for show, but they watch for your defence, keeping Sentinels, and relieving one another, and are very studious to give content. For you must know, that in the Towns where you take them into service, they have a Chieftain, that is responsible for their fidelity, who for his good word has two Roupies apiece of every one. In the great Villages there is generally a Mahometan that commands, of whom you may buy Mutton, Pullet's, or Pigeons. But where there live none but Banians, there is nothing but Flower, Rice, Herbs and Milk-meats to be had. The great heats in India enforcing the Travellers, that are not accustomed to them, to travel by night, and rest in the daytime; when they come into any fortified Towns, they must be gone before Sunset, if they intent to travel that night. For night coming on, and the Gates being shut, the Commander of the place, who is to answer for all the Robberies that are committed within his Jurisdiction, will let no person stir forth, telling them that it is the King's order, to which he must be obedient. When I came to any of those Towns, I bought my Provisions, and went out again in good time, and stayed in the Field under some Tree, in the fresh air, till it was time to set forward. They measure the distances of places in India by Goseling, and Costs. A Goseling is about four of our common leagues, and a Coste one league. It is now time to travel from Surat for Agra, and Janabat, and to observe what is most remarkable upon the Road. CHAP. IU. The Road from Surat to Agra, through Brampour and Seronge. I Am no less well acquainted with all the principal Roads that lead to the chief Cities of India, than those of Turkey and Persia; for in six times that I have travelled from Paris to Ispahan, I have gone twice for one from Ispahan to Agra, and many other places of the Great Mogul's Empire. But it would be tiresome to the Reader to carry him more than once the same way, on purpose to make a relation of every particular journey, and the accidents that accompany them: And therefore it will suffice to give an exact description of the Roads, without particularising the distinct times that I went. There are but two Roads from Surat to Agra, one through Brampour and Seronge, the other through Amadabat. The first shall be the Subject of this Chapter. From Surat to Barnoly, costs 14 Barnoly is a great Borough-Town, where you are to ford a great River; and this first days journey you cross a mixed Country, part Wood, part through Fields of Wheat and Rice. From Barnoly to Bahor, costs. 10 Bahor is also a large Village upon a Lake, about a league in compass. Upon the side whereof is to be seen a good substantial Fortress; though there be no use made of it. Three quarters of a league on this side the Village you ford a small River, though not without great difficulty, by reason of the Rocks and Stones that hazard the overturning of the Coach. This second days-journey you travel almost altogether through Woods. From Balor to Kerkoa, or as it is called at this day, Carvansera de la Begum, costs. 5 This Carvansera or Inn is very large and commodious; being built out of Charity by Begum-saheb the Daughter of Cha-jehan. For formerly the journey from Balor to Navapoura was too great: And this place being upon the Frontiers of those rajas that sometimes will not acknowledge the Great Mogul, whose Vassals they are, there was no Caravan that past by which was not abused; besides that it is a woody-country. Between Carvansera and Navapoura you ford a River; as also another very near to Navapoura. From Kerkoa to Navapoura, costs. 75 Navapoura is a great Town full of Weavers; but Rice is the greatest Commodity of that place. There runs a River through the Country, which makes it very fruitful, and waters the Rice, that requires moisture. All the Rice which grows in this Country has one peculiar quality, that makes it more particularly esteemed. The grain of it is less by one half, than the grain of the common Rice; and when it is boiled, no snow is whiter; but besides all that, it smells of Musk; and all the Grandees of the Indians eat no other. When they would make an acceptable Present to any one in Persia, they send him a sack of this Rice. This River which passes by Kerkoa and those other places I have mentioned, empties itself into the River of Surat. From Navapoura to Nasarbar, costs. 9 From Nasarbar to Dol-medan, costs. 74 From Dol-medan to Senquera, costs. 7 From Senquera to Tallener, costs. 10 At Tallener you are to pass the River, which runs to Baroche; where it is very large, and empties itself into the Golf of Cambaya. From Tallener to Choupre, costs. 15 From Coupre to Senquelis, costs. 13 From Senquelis to Nabir, costs. 10 From Nabir to Badelpoura, costs. 9 At Badelpoura it is, where the loaded Wagons pay the duties of Brampour; but the Wagons that carry nothing but Passengers, pay nothing. From Badelpoura to Brampour, costs 5 Brampour is a great City, very much ruined, the Houses being for the most part thatched with straw. There is also a great Castle in the midst of the City, where the Governor lies; the Government of this Province is a very considerable command; and is only conferred upon the Son or Uncle of the King. And Aurengzeb, the present King, was a long time Governor of this Province in the Reign of his Father. But since they came to understand the strength of the Province of Bengala, which formerly bore the Title of a Kingdom, that Province is now the most considerable in all the Mogul's Country. There is a great Trade in this City, and as well in Brampore, as over all the Province, there is made a prodigious quantity of Calicuts very clear and white, which are transported into Porsia, Turkey and Muscovia, Poland, Arabia, to Grand Cairo, and other places. There are some which are painted with several colours, with flowers, of which the Women make Veils and Scarves; the same Calicuts serve for Coverlets of Beds, and for Handkerchiefs. There is another sort of Linen which they never die, with a stripe or two of Gold or Silver quite through the piece, and at each end from the breadth of one inch to twelve or fifteen, in some more, in some less, they fix a tissue of Gold, Silver, and Silk, intermixed with Flowers, whereof there is no wrong-side, both sides being as fair the one as the other. If these pieces, which they carry into Poland, where they have a vast utterance, want at each end three or four inches at the least of Gold or Silver; or if that Gold or Silver become tarnished in being carried by Sea from Surat to Ormus, and from Trebizan to Mangala, or any other parts upon the Black-Sea, the Merchant shall have much ado to put them off without great loss. He must take care that his goods be packed up in good Bales, that no wet may get in; which for so long a Voyage requires great care and trouble. Some of these Linens are made purposely for Swathbands or Sashes, and those pieces are called Ornis. They contain from 15 to 20 els; and cost from an hundred to an hundred and fifty Roupies, the least not being under ten or twelve els. Those that are not above two els long are worn by the Ladies of Quality for Veils and Scarves, of which there is a vast quantity vended in Persia and Turkey. They make at Brampour also other sorts of Cotton-linen; for indeed there is no Province in all the Indies which more abounds in Cotton. When you leave the City of Brampoure, you must pass another River, besides that which I have mentioned already. There is no Bridge, and therefore when the water is low, you ford it; when the reins fall, there are Boats attending. From Surat to Brampour it is 132 Costs; and these Costs are very short in the Indies; for you may travel one of them in a Coach in less than an hour. I remember a strange tumult at Brampoure, in the year 1641, when I returned from Agra to Surat; the cause whereof was thus, in short: The Governor of the Province who was the King's Nephew by the Mother's-side, had among his Pages a young Boy that was very beautiful, and of a very good Family, who had a Brother in the City that lived as a Dervich; and for whom all the Town had a very great veneration. One day the Governor, being alone in his Chamber, did all that lay in his power, by virtue of Gifts and Caresses, to have had the use of his Body; but the Boy detesting his abominable purpose, made his escape from him, and came and told his Brother. The Dervich, without deliberating what Council he had to give his younger Brother, gave him a Sword, such a one as he might easily hid under his Garment; and told him, that if the Governor urged him any more, that he should make a show of complying with him, but that when he went about to do the fact, he should be sure to run him into the Guts. The Governor, who knew nothing of what the Page had revealed to his Brother, ceased not every day to court him to consent to his infamous lust; and being one day alone with him in a small Apartment of a Banqueting-house, at the lower end of his Garden, he sent for his Page to fan him, and to keep off the Flies, after the fashion of the Country; for it was about noon, when every one goes to sleep. Then did the Governor begin again to press the young Page; and finding that he made no resistance, he thought he should suddenly accomplish his design. But the Page seeing him ready to commit the act, stabbed him three times into the Belly, before he could open his mouth to cry out for help. That done, the Page went out of the Palace, without any disturbance In his countenance; so that the Guards believed that the Governor had sent him out upon some errand. The Dervich understanding by his Brother what had passed, to save him from the fury of the people, and to discover the Infamy of the Governor, caused the rest of the Derviches his Companions, to take the Banners of Mahomet, that were planted round the Mosque; and at the same time with loud cries encouraged all the rest of the Derviches, Faquirs, and others that were good Mahumetans, to follow him. In less than an hours time he had got together an infinite multitude of the Rabble, and the Dervich marching at the head of them, they made directly to the Palace, crying out with all their might, Let us die for Mahomet, or let us have that infamous person delivered up into our hands, to the end the Dogs may eat him after his death, not being worthy to be interred among the Musselmen. The Guard of the Palace was not in a condition to resist so great a Multitude, so that they must have been forced to have yielded to their fury, had not the Deroga of the Town, and some five or six Lords, found a way to make themselves to be heard, and to appease them, by representing to them, that they ought to have some respect to the Nephew of the King; by that means obliging them to retire. That night the Body of the Governor was sent to Agra, with his Haram; and Cha-jehan, who then reigned, being informed of the accident, was not much troubled, because he is Heir to all the goods of his Subjects; and at the same time he bestowed upon the Page a small Government in the Province of Bengala. From Brampour to Piombi-sera, costs 5 Before we go any farther, you must take notice, that wherever you meet with the word Sera, it signifies a great Enclosure of Walls and Hedges, within which are about fifty or sixty Huts, covered over with Straw. There are some men and women that there put to sale Flower, Rice, Butter, and Herbs, and make it their business to bake Bread and boil Rice. If there be any Mahometan in that place, he will go to the City, and buy a little piece of Mutton, or a Fowl; and those that sell Victuals to the Travellers, always cleanse the Hut which they take up, and put into it a little Bed with girths, to lay a Mattress or Quilt upon, which the Travellers carry along with them. From Piombi-sera to Pander, costs 3 From Pander to Balki-sera, costs 6 From Balki-sera to Nevilki-sera, costs 5 From Nevilki-sera to Consemba, costs 5 From Consemba to Chenipore, costs 3 From Chenipore to Charava, costs 8 From Charava to Bich-ola, costs 8 From Bich-ola to Andy, costs 4 At Andy you must pass a River that falls into Ganges, between Banarou and Patna. From Andi to Onquenas, costs 4 From Onquenas to Tiquery, costs 5 From Tiquery to Tool-meden, costs 4 From Tool-meden to Nova-sera, costs 4 From Nova-sera to Ichavour, costs 4 From Ichavour to Signior, costs 5 From Signior to Chekaipour, costs 3 From Chekaipour to Dour-ay, costs 3 From Dour-ay to Aser-kaira, costs 3 From Aser-kaira to Telor, costs 3 From Telor to San-kaira, costs 3 From San-kaira to Seronge, costs 12 Seronge is a great City, the most part of the Inhabitants whereof are Banian Merchants, and Handicraft-trades-men from Father to Son, which is the reason that there are in this City several Houses of Stone and Brick. There is also a great Trade for all sorts of painted Calicuts, which are called Chites; which is the clothing of all the meaner sort of people both in Persia and Turkey: Of which in other countries' also they make use, for Coverlets for Beds, and Table-napkins. They make the same sort of Calicuts in other countries' as well as at Seronge, but the colours are not so lively; besides, that they wear out with often washing. Whereas those that are made at Seronge, the more you wash them the fairer the colours show. There runs a River by the City, the water whereof has that virtue, that it gives that beauty and liveliness to the colours. And all the while the reins fall, the Workmen will make these prints upon their Cottons, according to the Patterns which the Foreign Merchants give them; for when the waters are ceased the water is the thicker; and the oftener they dip their Calicuts, the better the colours hold. There is also made at Seronge another sort of Calicut, which is so fine, that when a man puts it on, his skin shall appear through it, as if he were naked. The Merchants are not permitted to transport it. For the Governor sends it all to the Seraglio of the Great Mogul, and to the principal Lords of the Court. Of this, the Sultanesses, and great Nobleman's Wives make them Shifts and Garments in hot-weather: And the King and the Lords take great pleasure to behold them in those Shifts, and to see them Dance with nothing else upon their Bodies. From Brampore to Seronge is an hundred and one costs, which are longer than those from Surat to Brampore; for the Coach is a full hour, and sometimes five quarters, going one of these costs. In these hundred leagues of the Country you travel whole days journeys along by most fertile Fields of Corn and Rice, being lovely Champaign, where you meet with very little Wood; and from Seronge to Agra, the Country is much of the same nature: And because the Villages lie thick together, your journey is the more pleasant; besides, that you may rest when you please. From Seronge to Madalki-sera, costs. 6 From Madalki-sera to Poulki-sera, costs. 2 From Poulki-sera to Kasariki-sera, costs. 3 From Kasariki-sera to Chadolki-sera, costs. 6 From Chadolki-sera to Callabas, costs. 6 Callabas is a great Town, which was formerly the Residence of a Raja, who paid Tribute to the Great Mogul. But when Orang-zeb came to the Crown, he not only cut off his, but a great number of the heads of his Subjects. There are two Towers near the Town, upon the highway, and round about the Towers are several holes, like windows; and in every hole, two foot distant one from another, there is fixed a man's head. In my last Travels in the year 1665, it had not been long since that Execution had been done; for then all the Heads were whole, and caused a very ill smell. From Callabas to Akmate, costs 2 From Akmate to Collasar, costs 9 Collasar is a little Town, all the Inhabitants whereof are Idolaters. As I passed through it upon my last Travels, there were brought to it eight Pieces of Artillery, the one carrying 48 pound-Bullet, the rest 36. Every Piece was drawn by 24 Yoke of Oxen. A very strong Elephant followed the Artillery, and when they came to any bad-way, where the Oxen were at a stand, they brought up the Elephant, who heaved the Cannon forward with his Trunk. Without the Town, all along the highway, there grows a vast number of great Trees, which they call Mangues; and in many places near the Trees are to be seen little Pagods, with every one an Idol at the door. The Elephant passing by one of the Pagods, before which I was lodged, at the door whereof there stood three Idols about five foot high; so soon as he came near one, he took it up in his trunk, and broke it in two pieces; the next he took, he threw it up so high, and so far, that he broke it in four pieces; and carried away the head of the third along with him. Some thought that the Governor of the Elephant had taught him what to do, and made signs to him, which however I did not observe; nevertheless the Banians were very much offended, though they durst not say any thing; for there was a Guard of above two thousand men that convoyed the Artillery, all Soldiers of the King, and Mahometans, besides Franguis, or Franks, English and Hollanders that were Cannoneers. The King sent this Artillery to his Army in Decan, being at Wars with the Raja Sova-gi, who the year before had plundered Surat; of whom I shall have occasion to speak in another place. From Collasar to Sansele, costs 6 From Sansele to Dongry, costs 4 From Dongry to Gate, costs 3 Gate is a straight passage of the Mountains, a quarter of a league in length, the descent whereof leads from Surat to Agra. At the entry thereof you see the ruins of two or three Castles, and the Road is so narrow, that two Wagons can hardly go a breast. They that come from the South to go to Agra, as from Surat, Goa, Visapore, Golconda, Maslipatan, and other places, cannot avoid these straits, there being no other Road but this, especially if you take the Road from Amadabat. Formerly there was a Gate at each end of the straight, and at that end which is next to Agra, there are five or six Shops of Banians, that sell Flower, Butter, Rice, Herbs and Pulse. In my last Travels I stayed at one of these Shops, to carry for the Coaches and Wagons, all the Passengers alighting at the foot of the straits. Not far off there is a great Magazine full of sacks of Rice and Corn; and behind every sack lay a Serpent thirteen or fourteen foot long, and proportionable in bigness. A Woman that went to fetch Corn out of one of those sacks, was bitten by one of those Serpents, and perceiving herself wounded, ran out of the Magazine, crying out Ram, Ram, that is, O God, O God; whereupon several Banians, men and women came running to her relief, and bound her arm very hard above the wound, thinking to stop the venom from running any higher. But all in vain, for immediately her face swelled, and turned black, and she died in less than an hour. The Ragipov's, who are the best Soldiers among the Indians, and are all Idolaters, came in just as the woman was expiring, and about four of them entering with their Skains, and Half-pikes in their hands into the Magazine, killed the Serpent. The people of the Village took and threw it without the Town, and immediately there came a great number of Birds of prey, which lighting upon the Carrion, devoured it in less than an hours time. The Parents of the woman took her body, carried it to the River, washed it, and then burned it. I was forced to stay two days at that place, because there was a River to pass, which instead of falling, swelled at that time, by reason of the rains that fell for three or four days together: So that I was constrained to go half a league lower before I could cross it. They always endeavoured to ford this River; for otherwise they must be compelled to unload the Wagon into the Boats; and also to carry the Goods in their arms for above half a league, which is worse way than can be imagined. The people get their live by the Passengers, from whom they extort as much as they can, there being none but they that know the ways: Otherwise it would be an easy thing to make a Bridge, there being no want either of Wood or Stone near at hand. For the passage is nothing but through Rocks, that lie between the Mountain and the River; so that the waters when they swell, overflow all the Road, insomuch that nobody can pass it, but they who are very well acquainted with it. From Gate to Nader, costs 4 Nader is a great City upon the descent of a Mountain, at the top whereof is a kind of a Fortress; all the Mountain being encompassed with walls. The greatest part of the Houses, as in all other Cities of India, are thatched with straw, one Story high; but the Rich-man's Houses, are two Stories, and terraced. Round about the City are several great Ponds to be seen, which were formerly encompassed with hewn-stone, but now are not at all looked after; yet there are very fair Monuments about them. The same River which we passed the day before, and which we repass four or five Costs on this side Nader, encompasses three parts of the City and Mountain, like a Peninsula, and after a long winding-course which it takes, falls at length into Ganges. At Nader they make a great quantity of quilted-Coverlets, some white, others embroidered with Flowers of Gold, Silk and Satin. From Nader to Barqui-sera, costs 9 From Barqui-sera to Try, costs 3 From Try to Govaleor, costs 6 Govaleor is a great City ill-built, like all the rest, after the manner of the Indians; it is built all along the side of a Mountain that lies upon the Westside of it; and which at the top is encompassed with Walls and Towers. There are in this Enclosure several Ponds made by the reins; and what they sow there is sufficient to keep the Garrison: For which reason it is esteemed one of the best in the Indies. Upon the descent of the Hill, which looks towards the North-east, Cha-jehan built an House of Pleasure; from whence there is a Prospect over all the City, and indeed it may serve for a Garrison. Below the House are to be seen several Idols cut out of the Rock, representing the shapes of their Gods: And among the rest, there is one of an extraordinary height. Since the Mahometan Kings became Masters of this Country, this Fortress of Govaleor is the place where they secure Princes and great Noblemen. Cha-jehan coming to the Empire by foul-play, caused all the Princes and Lords whom he mistrusted, to be seized one after another, and sent them to the Fortress of Govaleor; but he suffered them all to live, and enjoy their Estates, Aurengzeb his Son acts quite otherwise: For when he sends any great Lord to this place, at the end of nine or ten days he order him to be poisoned; and this he does that the people may not exclaim against him for a bloody Prince. So soon as he had in his clutches Prince Morat-Bakche his youngest Brother, whom he engaged to take Arms against his Father Cha-jehan; and who being Governor of the Province of Guzerat, took upon him the Title of King, he sent him to this Fortress, where he died. They have made him a most magnificent Monument in the City in a Mosque, which they built on purpose, with a great Piazza before it all surrounded with Vaults and Shops over them. For it is the custom of the Indians, when they rear any public Building, to make a great Piazza before it, where they keep their Markets, with a Foundation for the Poor, to whom they give Alms every day, as being to pray to God for him that raised the Fabric. Five Costs from Govaleor, you ford a River which is called Lantké. From Govaleor to Paterki-sera, costs 3 From Paterki-sera to Quariqui-sera, costs 10 There is a Bridge at Paterki-sera, consisting of six wide Arches; and the River you go over is called Quarinado. From Quariki-sera to Dolpoura, costs 6 At Dolpoura there is a great River which is called Chammelnadi, to which there belongs a Ferry-Boat: The River itself falls into the Gemena between Agra and Halabas. From Dolpoura to Minasqui-sera, costs 6 At Minasqui-sera there is a River, which is called Jagounadi. You pass it over a very long Bridg, built of Stone, the name whereof is Jaoulcapoul. From Minasqui-sera to this Bridge, costs 8 Not far from this Bridge it is, that they view the Merchant's Goods, that when they come to Agra they may not be deceived of their duties. But more particularly to see whether among the Casks of Fruits pickled in Vinegar, in pots of Glass, there be no flasks of Wine. From the Bridge Jaoulcapoul to Agra, costs So that from Seronge to Agra it is an hundred and six Costs, which are ordinary leagues; and from Surat to Agra, 339. CHAP. V The Road from Surat to Agra through Amadabat. FRom Surat to Baroche, costs All the Country between these two Cities is full of Corn, Rice, Millet, and Sugarcanes. Before you enter into Baroche, you must Ferry over the River which runs to Cambaya, and falls into the Golf that carries the same name. Baroche is a great City, to which there belongs a Fortress, of which there is no use made at this time. But the City has been always very famous, by reason of the River, which has a particular quality to whiten their Cottons; which are brought thither from all parts of the Great Mogul's Territories, where they have not that convenience. In this place are made a great quantity of Baffa's, or long and large pieces of Cotton. These Cottons are very fair, and close woven; and the price of these pieces is from four to an hundred Roupies. You must pay Custom at Baroche for all Goods that are brought in and carried out. The English have a very fair House in the City; and I remember once, that coming thither one day in my return from Surat to Agra with the Precedent of the English, presently the Mountebanks came about him, and asked him if he would see any of their tricks. The first thing they did was to light a great fire, and to heat certain Ironchains red-hot, and wind them about their bodies, making as if they felt a great deal of pain, but in truth receiving no harm at all. Then they thrust a piece of a stick into the ground, and asked the Company what Fruit they would have. One told them, he would have Mengues; then one of the Mountebanks hiding himself in the middle of a Sheet, stooped to the ground five or six times one after another. I was so curious to go up stairs, and look out of a window, to see if I could spy what the Mountebank did; and perceived, that after he had cut himself under the armpits with a Razor, he rubbed the stick with his Blood. After the two first times that he raised himself, the stick seemed to the very eye to grow. The third time there sprung out branches with young buds. The fourth time the Tree was covered with leaves; and the fift time it bore flowers. The Precedent of the English had then his Minister with him, having brought him from Amadabat to christian the Commander of the Hollander's Child, to which he had promised to be Godfather. The English Minister protested that he could not give his consent that any Christian should be a spectator of such delusions. So that as soon as he saw that those Mountebanks had of a dry-stick, in less than half an hour, made a Tree four or five foot high, that bare leaves and flowers as in the Springtime; he went about to break it, protesting he would not give the Communion to any person that should stay any longer to see those things. Thereupon the Precedent was forced to dismiss the Mountebanks, who wander about the Country with their Wives and Children just like Gipsies; and having given them to the value of ten or twelve Crowns, they went away very well contented. They that are curious to see Cambaya, never go out of their way above five or six Costs, or thereabout. For when you are at Baroche, instead of going to Broudra, you may go directly forward to Cambaya, from thence afterwards to Amadabat. But whether it be for business, or out of curiosity, the latter Road is never to be taken; not only because it is the longest way, but because of the danger in crossing the mouth of the Golf. Cambaya is a great City at the bottom of the Golf that bears its name. Here it is that they shape those fair agates, that come from the Indies, into Cups, Hasts of Knives, Beads, and other sorts of Workmanship. In the parts adjacent to the City, they also make Indigo of the same nature of that of Sarquess; and it was famous for traffic at the time when the Portugueses flourished in India. There are to be seen at this day, in the Quarter next the Sea, very fair Houses, which they had built, with very rich Furniture, after the Portugal manner; but now they are uninhabited, and fall to decay every day more and more. There were then such good Orders observed in Cambaya, that two hours after day was shut in, every Street was locked up with two Gates, which are still to be seen; and still they continue to lock up the principal Streets, as also the Streets that lead into the Town. One of the chief reasons why the Town has lost the greatest part of its Trade is, because that formerly the Sea run close up to Cambaya, so that little Vessels easily anchored by it; but afterwards the Sea daily lost in that part, so that a small Ship could not ride within five or six Leagues of the City. There are a great number of Peacocks in the Indies, especially in the Territories of Baroche, Cambaya, and Broudra. The flesh of the young ones is white and well-tasted, like ours, and you shall see vast numbers of them all day in the Fields, for at night they roost upon the Trees. 'Tis a hard matter to come near them in the day, for as soon as they perceive themselves hunted, they fly away as swift as a Partridge among the Bushes; so that it is impossible for any man to follow them without tearing his clothes all to rags; therefore are they only to be taken in the night time, to which purpose they have this invention. They approach the Tree with a kind of a Banner, upon which there is a Peacock painted to the life on both sides; at the top of the stick are fastened two lighted Candles, the brightness whereof amazing the Peacock, causes him to stretch out his Neck toward the end of the stick, to which there is a Rope tied with a sliding knot, which he that holds the Banner draws, when he finds that the Peacock has put his Neck into it. But you must have a care of killing either Bird, or any other Animal in the Territories, of which the idolatrous rajas are Masters; which it is nothing dangerous to do in those parts of the Indies, where the Governors are Mahometans, and give liberty to Fowl or Hunt. It happened one time that a rich Persian Merchant, passing through the Territories of the Raja of Dantivar, shot a Peacock upon the road, and killed it, either out of rashness, or ignorance of the Customs of the Country. The Bannians incensed at the attempt, which is accounted among them a most abominable sacrilege, seized upon the Merchant, and all his Money to the value of 300000. Roupies, and tying him to a Tree, whipped him in so terrible a manner for three days together, that the man died. From Cambaya you go to a little Village distant some three Costs, where there is a Pagod, to which all the Indian Courtesans come to make their Offerings. This Pagod is full of a great number of naked Images, among the rest, there is a large Figure of one that seems to resemble Apollo, with his privy parts all uncovered. When the old Courtesans have got together a good sum of Money in their youth, they buy young Slaves, whom they teach to Dance, and sing wanton Songs, and instruct in all the mysteries of their infamous Art. And when these young Girls are eleven or twelve years old, their Mistresses send them to this Pagod, believing it will bring them good fortune, to offer and surrender up themselves to this Idol. From this Pagod to Chiidabad you have six Costs. This is one of the fairest Houses of the great Mogul, with a wide Enclosure, wherein he has vast Gardens, and large Ponds, with all the pleasures and curiosity whereof the Genius of the Indians is capable. From Chiidabad to Amadabad you have but five Costs; and so I return to Baroche, and the common Road. From Baroche to Broudra, Costs 22 Broudra is a great City standing in a fertile Soil, wherein there is a vast Trade for Calicuts. From Broudra to Neriade, costs 18 From Neriade to Amadabat, costs 20 Amadabat is one of the greatest Cities in India; and where there is a mighty Trade for Silk-Stuffs, Hang of Gold and Silver, and others mixed with Silk; for Saltpetre, Sugar, Ginger candid and raw; Tamarinds, Mirobolans, and flat Indigo, which is made at a great Town, not far from Amadabat, called Sarquess. There was in that place a Pagod, which the Mahumetan's have pulled down, and built a Mosque in the place. Before you enter into it, you must cross three large Courts paved with Marble, and encompassed with Galleries; nor must you enter into the third Court till you have pulled off your shoes. The inside of the Mosque is adorned with Mosaic-work, the greatest part whereof is of agates of divers colours, which they fetch from the Mountains of Cambaya, not above two days journey off. There are several Sepulchers of the ancient Idolatrous Kings, that look like little Chapels, of Mosaic-work, built upon a Vault that is under the Sepulchre. There runs a River from Amadabat toward the Northwest, which during the rainy-seasons that continue three or four Months together, is very wide and rapid, and does much mischief every year. It is so with all the other Rivers in India; and after the rains are fallen, you must stay six weeks or two months before you can ford Amadabat-River, where there is no Bridg. There are two or three Boats; but they are of no use, when the stream is so swift; so that you must stay till the waters are fallen. But the people of the Country will not stay so long; for to cross from one River to another, they only make use of Goatskins, which they blow up and fill with wind, and then tie them between their stomaches and their bellies. Thus the poor men and women swim cross this River, and when they would carry their children along with them, they put them in certain round pots of Earth, the mouth whereof is four-fingers wide, and drive the Pots before them. This puts me in mind of a Passage, when I was at Amadabat in the year 1642, which is too remarkable to be omitted. A Countryman and a Countrywoman one day past the River as I have related, and having a child about two years old, they put it into one of these Pots, so that there was nothing but the head appeared. Being about the middle of the River, they met with a little bank of Sand, where there lay an huge Tree, which the stream had carried thither; whereupon the Father shoved the Pot toward that part, to rest himself awhile. When he came near the Tree, the trunk whereof lay somewhat above the water, a Serpent leapt out from among the roots, into the Pot where the Infant was. The Father and the Mother frighted at the accident, and having almost lost their senses, let the Pot go a-drift where the stream carried it, and lay almost dead themselves at the bottom of the Tree. About two leagues lower, a Banian and his Wife with a little Infant, were washing themselves in the River before they went to eat. They descried the Pot a-far-off, with the half of the Infant's-head that appeared above the hole. The Banian immediately swims to the relief of the child, and having stopped the Pot, drives it to the shore. The Mother followed by her own, comes presently to take the other child out of the Pot, at what time the Serpent that had done no harm to the other child, shoots out of the Pot, and winding about hers, stings it, and infuses its venom into the Insant, so that it died immediately. However, the accident, being so extraordinary, did not trouble those poor people; who rather believed it to have happened by the secret disposal of their Deity, who had taken from them one child, to give them another for it, with which opinion they presently comforted themselves. Some time after, the report of this accident coming to the ears of the first Countryman, he comes to the Banian to tell him how the mischance had happened, and to demand his child of him; the other Indian affirming that the child was his, and that his God had sent it him, in the place of that which was dead. To be short, the business made so loud a noise, that it was at length brought before the King, who ordered, that the child should be restored to the Father. At the same time there happened another very pleasant accident in the same City of Amadabat. The Wife of a rich Merchant Banian, named Saintidas, never having had a child, and manifesting her eager desire to have one, a servant of the House took her aside one day, and told her, that if she would but eat that which he would give her, she should be with child. The woman desirous to know what she was to eat, the servant told her it was a little fish, and that she should eat but three or four. Now the Religion of the Banians forbidding them to eat any thing that has life, she could not resolve at first to yield to his proposal; but the servant having promised her that he would so order the matter, that she should not know whether it were fish or not that she eat, she resolved to try his receipt, and went the next night to lie with her Husband, according to the instruction which she had received from the servant. Some time after, the woman perceiving that she was big, her Husband happened to die, and the kindred of the deceased would have his Estate. The Widow opposed them, and told them that it behoved them to stay, till they saw whether the child she went withal, would live or no. Her kindred were surprised to hear such news that they so little expected, and taxed her for one that either lied or jested with them; knowing that the woman had lived fifteen or sixteen years with her Husband, yet never had been with child. Seeing therefore that her kindred still tormented her, she went and threw herself at the governor's feet, to whom she related all that had passed, who thereupon ordered that the kindred should stay till the woman was delivered. Some days after she had lain-in, the kindred of the deceased Merchant, who were persons of Credit, and gaped after so fair an inheritance, affirmed that the child was not legitimate, and that she had it not by her Husband. The Governor, to understand the truth of the matter, calls for the Physicians; who concluded, that the Infant should be carried to the Bath, saying, that if the Receipt which the Mother had made use of, were real, the sweat of the child would smell of fish; which was done accordingly, and the Experiment proved true. Thereupon the Governor ordered that the child should have the Estate, the Merchant being so proud to be his Father: But the Kindred, troubled that such a fat Morsel had escaped their mouths, appealed to the King. Upon their relation of the story, the King wrote to the Governor to send him the Mother and the Insant, to the end the Experiment might be made in his presence: which having the same success as before, the kindred succease their claim, and the Estate remained to the Mother and the Infant. I remember also another pleasant Story which was related to me at Amadabat, where I have been ten or twelve times. A Merchant with whom I often dealt, and who was very well beloved by Cha-Est-Kan, Governor of the Province, and the King's Uncle, had the reputation never to have told a lie. Cha-Est-Kan, after the three years of his Government were expired, according to the custom of the Great Mogul, and that Aurengzeb, the King's Son was come into his place, retired to Agra, where the Court then was. One day, discoursing with the King, he told him, that he had seen many rare things in the Governments, with which his Majesty had honoured him, but that one thing above all the rest had astonished him, to have met with a Rich Merchant that had never told a lie, and yet he was above threescore and ten years of age. The King surprised at a thing so extraordinary, signified to Cha-Est-Kan, his desire to see the person, and commanded him to send for him to Agra, which he did. The Old-man was very much troubled, as well in regard of the length of the way, it being a journey of 25 or or 30 days, as for that he was to make a Present to the King. In short, he provided one, esteemed at forty-thousand Roupies, to carry Betlé in, enchased with Diamonds, Rubies, and Emeralds. When he had made his obeisance to the King, and given him his Present, the King asked him only what was his name, to whom he replied, that he was called the man that had never told a lie. Then the King asked him who was his Father? Sir, said he, I cannot tell; his Majesty satisfied with that answer, stopped there, and unwilling to trouble him any farther, commanded an Elephant to be given him, which is a very great Honour, and ten-thousand Roupies to bear his charges home. The Banians have a great Veneration for Apes, and there are some which they breed up in their Pagods to worship. There are three or four Houses in Amadabat which they make use of for Hospitals for Cowes, Oxen, Apes, and other sick or maimed Beasts; and they carry all they can find thither to preserve them. This is also very remarkable, that every Tuesday and Friday, all the Apes in the places adjoining to Amadabat, of their own accord come to the City, and get upon the tops of their Houses, where they lie, during the excessive heats. And therefore upon those days the people never fail to set ready in their Terraces, Rice, Millet, Sugarcanes in their seasons, and other suchlike things. For if the Apes did not find their provision when they came, they would break the Tiles wherewith the rest of the House is covered, and do a great deal of mischief. And you must here take notice also, that the Ape never eats any thing which he does not very well like the scent of beforehand; and before he swallows anything, he lays up his Magazine against future hunger; filling his bags with provision, which he keeps till next day. I have said, that the Banians have a particular Veneration for the Ape; of which I will give you one Example, among many, that I could bring. Being one day at Amadabat, at the House belonging to the Hollanders, a young man of that Nation newly arrived to serve in the Factory, not knowing the custom of the Country, and seeing a great Ape upon a Tree in the Court, would needs show a piece of activity, or rather a trick of youth, to kill the Ape with a small Gun. I was at Table then with the Dutch-Commander; and we no sooner heard the blow, but we heard as soon a loud noise of Banians, that wait upon the Holland-Company, who came to complain bitterly of him that had killed the Ape. They would all have been gone; so that the Commander had much ado, and made many excuses before he could appease them, and oblige them to stay. In the Neighbourhood about Amadabat, there are a great number of Apes. And this is observable, that where there are a great number of those Animals, there are very few Crows. For as soon as they have built their Nests and laid their Eggs, the Apes get upon the Trees and throw their Eggs to the Ground. One day returning from Agra, and departing out of Amadabat with the English Precedent, who came hither about some business, and was returning to Surat, we passed through a little Forest of Trees, called Mangues, some four or five Leagues from Amadabat; there we saw a vast number of great Monkeys, male and female, and many of the females holding their young ones in their Arms. We had each of us our Coach, and the English Precedent causing his to stop, told me he had an excellent and very neat Harquebus, that was presented him by the Governor of Daman, and knowing I could aim well, he desired me to try it, at one of those Apes. One of my Servants, who was born in the Country, making me a sign not to venture, I endeavoured to dissuade the Precedent from his design; but it was impossible; so that I took the Harquebus, and killed a female Monkey, who lay stretched out upon the Boughs, letting her little ones fall to the ground. But it fell out as my Servant had forewarned me. For immediately all the Monkeys that were upon the Trees, to the number of sixty, came down in a great fury, to have leaped into the Precedents Coach, where they would soon have strangled him, had we not prevented them by closing the Shutters, and had we not had a great number of Servants, that with much ado kept them off. And though they came not to my Coach, yet I was very much afraid of myself; for they pursued the President's Coach above a League, and they were stout lusty Monkeys. From Amadabat to Panser, costs 13 From Panser to Masana, costs 14 From Masana to Chitpour, costs 14 Chitpour is a very good City, so called by reason of the great Trade for painted-Calicuts, which are called Chites: Near which, some four or fivehundred paces toward the South, there runs a small River. Arriving at Chitpour in one of my Voyages, I pitched my Tent under two or three Trees at the end of a wide-place near the Town. A little while after I saw four or five Lions appear, which were brought to be tamed; which they told me took them up five or six months; and their way to do it, is this: They tie the Lions at twelve paces distance one from another by the hinder-legs, with a Rope fastened to a great wooden-stake set deep in the ground, with another cord about the neck, which the Master holds in his hand. These Stakes are planted in the same Line, and in another Parallel they stretch out another Cord as long as the space, which the bodies of the Lions so disposed of, as I have described, take up. The two Cords which hold the Lion tied by the two hinder-feets, give him liberty to spring out as far as that long Cord; which is a mark to those that stand to provoke and incense the Lions, by throwing stones and pieces of wood at them, not to venture any farther: The people run to see the sight, and when the Lion, provoked, gives a spring toward the Cord, the Master holds another in his hand, tied about his neck, that pulls him back. Thus they accustom the Lion by degrees to be familiar with the people, and at my coming to Chiapour, I saw this Divertisement without stirring out of my Coach. The next day I had another, meeting with a knot of Faquirs, or Mahometan Dervichs. I counted fifty-seven, among whom, he that was the Chief or Superior, had been Grand Esquire to Cha-jehan-guir, having left the Court, when Sultan Boulaki, his youngest Son, was strangled by Order of Cha-jehan; there were four others, who next to the Superior, were chief of the Company, who had been also great Lords in the same Cha-jehan's Court. All the clothes those five Derviches had, were only four els of Orange-colour-Calicut to hid what modesty will have hid before and behind, and every one of them a Tigers-skin over their shoulders tied together under their chins. They had led before them eight fair Horses saddled and bridled; three whereof had Bridles of Gold, and Saddles covered with Plates of Gold, and the other five had Bridles of Silver covered with Plates of Silver, and a Leopard's-skin upon every one. The other Derviches had only a Cord for their Girdle, to which was fastened a piece of Calicut only to cover their private parts. Their hair was tied in wreaths round about their heads after the manner of a Turban. They were all well-armed, the most part with Bows and Arrows, some with Muskets, and others with Half-pikes, with another sort of weapon which we have not in Europe; that is to say, a sharp piece of Iron like the side of a Platter without a bottom, which they wind eight or ten times about their necks, and carry like a Calf's Cauldron. They draw out these Iron-Circles as they intent to make use of them; and they will throw them with such a force against a man, that they shall fly as swift as an Arrow, and go very near to cut a man in two in the middle. They had every one, besides all this, an Hunting-Horn, which they wind, making a prodigious noise when they come to any place, and when they go away; together with a Grater or Rasp, being an Iron-Instrument, made like a Trowel. This is an Instrument which the Indians carry generally about them when they travel, to scrape and make clean the places where they intent to rest; and some of them, when they have scraped all the dust together into an heap, make use of it instead of a Mattress or Pillow to lie easily upon. There were some of them that were armed with long Tucks; which they had bought either of the English or Portugals. Their Luggage consisted of four great Chests full of Persian and Arabian Books, and some Kitchen-householdstuff: They had also ten or twelve Oxen to carry their sick. When the Derviches came to the place where I lay with my Coach, having about fifty persons with me, as well of the people of the Country, as of my own servants; the Chief or Superior of the Troop seeing me so well-attended, enquired what Aga that was; and desired me to let him have that place which I had taken up, as being the most convenient in all that place, for him and his Derviches to lodge. When they told me the quality of the Chief, and the four Derviches that attended him, I was willing to be civil, and to yield to their request; and thereupon I left them the place free. After they had well-watered the place, and laid the dust, they lighted two fires, as if it had been in the frost and snow, for the five principal Derviches, who sat and chafed themselves before and behind. That very evening, after they had supped, the Governor of the Town came to compliment the principal Dervichs, and during their stay, sent them Rice and other things, which they are accustomed to eat. When they come to any place, the Superior sends some of his Crew a begging into the Towns and Villages, and what Alms they get, is presently distributed equally among them; every one of them taking care to boil his own Rice. What is over and above they give to the Poor in the evening; for they reserve nothing till next day. From Chitpour to Balampour, costs 12 From Balampour to Dantivar, costs 11 From Dantivar to Bargant, costs 17 Bargant is in the Territories of a Raja, to whom you pay duties. In one of my journeys to Agra, passing through Bargant, I did not see the Raja, but only his Lieutenant, who was very civil to me, and made me a Present of Rice, Butter, and Fruit in season. To make him amends, I gave him three Sashes of Gold and Silk, four Handkerchiefs of painted Linen, and two Bottles, the one full of Aquavitae, and the other full of Spanish-Wine. At my departure he sent a Convoy of twenty Horse four or five leagues along with me. One evening, being about to lodge upon the Frontiers of the Territories of the Raja of Bargant, my people came to me and told me, that if we took the Road through Bargant, we should go near to have all our throats cut, for that the Raja of that place lived altogether upon Robbery. So that unless I hired an hundred more of the Countrypeople, there was no likelihood of escaping those Freebooters. At first I argued with them, and taxed their Cowardice, but fearing to pay for my rashness afterwards, I sent them to hire fifty more, for three days only, that we crossed the rajas Country: for which they asked me every one four Roupies, which is as much as you give them for a whole Month. The next day as I was about to set forward, my Guard came and told me they would leave me, and that they would not venture their lives, desiring me not to write to Agra to their Captain, who was responsible for them, that they had left me against my will. Three of my servants also did as they did, so that I had no body left with me, but a man that lead an Horse in his hand, my Coachman, and three other servants, and so I set forward under the protection of God. About a league from the place which I had left, I perceived some part of my Convoy following me. Thereupon I stopped my Coach to stay for them, and when they came near, I bid them advance if they intended to go along with me. But seeing them fearful, and unresolved, I bid them go about their business, telling them I had no need of such Cowards as they were. About a league from thence I discovered upon the brow of an Hill about fifty Horse, four of which came riding up to me; when I perceived them, I alighted out of my Coach, and having with me some thirteen Spit-fires, I gave to every one of my men an Harquebus. The Horsemen approaching, I kept my Coach between them and me, and had my Gun ready cocked, in case they should assail me. But they made me a sign, that I should fear nothing; only that the Prince was a Hunting, and had sent to know what Strangers passed through his Territories: I made answer, that I was the same Franguy that had passed by five or six weeks before. By good luck, the very same Lieutenant to whom I had made the Present of Aquavitae and Spanish-Wine, followed those four Horsemen. And after he had testified how glad he was to see me, he asked me if I had any Wine; I told him I never travelled without that: For indeed the English and Hollanders had presented me with several Bottles at Agra. So soon as the Lieutenant was returned to the Raja, the Raja himself came to me, and told me I was welcome; and bid me rest myself in a shady-place which he pointed to, about a league and an half from the place where we were. In the evening he came, and we stayed together two days to make merry; the Raja bringing along with him certain Morris-dancers, without which the Persians and Indians can never think themselves hearty merry. At my departure the Raja lent me 200 Horse, to convoy me to the Frontiers of his Territories, for three days together; for which I only gave them three or four pound of Tobacco. When I came to Amadabat, the people would hardly believe that I had had so kind a reception from a Prince, that was noted for abusing strangers that past through his Country. From Bargant to Bimal, costs 15 From Bimal to Modra, costs 15 From Modra to Chalaour, costs 10 Chalaour is an ancient Town upon a Mountain, encompassed with Walls, and very difficult to come to. There is a Lake at the top of the Mountain, and another below; between which and the foot of the Mountain lies the Road to the Town. From Chalaour to Cantap, costs 12 From Cantap to Setlana, costs 15 From Setlana to Palavaseny, costs 14 From Palavaseny to Pipars, costs 11 From Pipars to Mirda, costs 16 From Dantivar to Mirda is three days journey, being a mountainous Country that belongs to rajas, or particular Princes that pay tribute to the Great Mogul. In recompense whereof the Great Mogul gives them Commands in his Armies; by which they gain much more than they lose by the tribute which they pay Mirda is a great City, but ill-built. When I came thither in one of my Indian-journeys, all the Inns were full of Passengers, in regard that Cha-jehan's Aunt, the Wife of Cha-Est-Kan, was going that way to marry her Daughter to Sultan Sujah, the second Son of Cha-jehan; I was forced to set up my Tent upon a Bank, with Trees on both sides: But I was not a little surprised two hours afterward, to see fifteen or twenty Elephants lose, that tore down the boughs as far as they could reach, breaking off the huge Arms of Trees, as if they had been but small faggot-sticks. This spoil was done by the order of the Begum, in revenge of the Affront which the Inhabitants of Mirda had put upon her, who had not waited on her, and made her a Present as they ought to have done. From Mirda to Baronda, costs 12 From Baronda to Coetchiel, costs 18 From Coetchiel to Bandar-Sonnery, costs 14 From Bandar-Sonnery to Ladona, costs 16 From Ladona to Chasou, costs 12 From Chasou to Novali, costs 17 From Novali to Hindoo, costs 19 From Hindoo to Baniana, costs 10 These two last places are two Towns, where, as in all the Country round about, they make Indigo-Plate, which is round; and as it is the best of all the Indigo's, so is it double the price. From Baniana to Vettapour, costs 14 Vettapour is an ancient Town where they make woollen-hanging. From Vettapour to Agra, costs 12 From Surat to Agra is in all, costs 415 If you could divide your journeys equally into thirteen Costs apiece, you might go to Surat in thirty-three days; but because you rest, and stay at some places, it is generally thirtyfive or forty days journey. CHAP. VI The Road from Ispahan to Agra, through Candahar. I Have made an exact description of some part of the Road, and brought the Reader as far as Candahar; it remains, that I carry him from Candahar to Agra; to which there are but two ways to go, either through Caboul, or through Mlultan. The latter way is the shorter by ten days journey. But the Caravan never goes that way. For from Candahar to Multan you travel almost all the way through Deserts; and sometimes you travel three or four days without meeting any water. So that the most ordinary and beaten Road, is through Caboul. Now from Candahar to Caboul, is twenty-four days journey; from Caboul to Lahor, twentytwo; from Lahor to Dehly, or Gebanabat, eighteen; from Dehly to Agra, six; which with the sixty days journey from Ispahan to Farat, and the twenty from Farat to Candahar, makes in all from Ispahan to Agra, an hundred and fifty days journey. But the Merchants that are in haste, take Horses, three or four together in a company, and ride the whole journey in sixty, or sixty-five days at most. Multan is a City where there is made a vast quantity of Linen Calicuts, which was all transported to Tuta, before the Sands had stopped up the mouth of the River; but since that, it is carried all to Agra, and from Agra to Surat, as is the greatest part of the Merchandise which is made at Lahor. But in regard carriage is so dear, very few Merchant's traffic either to Multan or at Lahor; and many of the Workmen have also deserted those places, so that the King's Revenues are very much diminished in those Provinces. Multan is the place whither all the Banians come, that trade into Persia, where they follow the same Trade as the Jews, and outdo them in Usury. They have a particular Law among them, which permits them to eat Fowl upon certain days in the year; and not to have more than one Wife among two or three Brothers, the eldest whereof is accounted the Father of the Children. This City also breeds abundance of Dancers, of both Sexes, that spread themselves all over Persia. I come now to the Road from Candahar to Agra, through Caboul and Lahor. From Candahar to Charisasar, costs 10 From Charisafar to Zelate, costs 12 From Zelate to Betazy, costs 8 From Betazy to Mezour, costs 6 From Mezour to Carabat, costs 17 From Carabat to Chakenicouze, costs 17 From Candahar to Chakenicouze, a Frontier Town of the Indies, is a Country under the command of several Princes, that acknowledge the Persian Emperor. From Chakenieouze to Caboul, costs 40 In all these forty Costs of way, there are but three pitiful Villages; where sometimes, though very rarely, you have Bread and Barley for your Horses; but the surest way is to carry provision along with you. In the Months of July and August, there blows a hot Wind in those parts, that takes away a man's breath, and kills him upon the place; being of the same nature with those Winds, of which I have spoken in my Persian Relations, that blow at certain seasons near Babylon and Moussul. Caboul is a large City, very well fortified; and is the place where those of Usbek come every year to sell their Horses. They reckon, that there are bought and sold, every year, above sixty thousand. They bring also out of Persia, great numbers of Sheep, and other cattle; it being the general Concourse of Persians, Tartarians, and Indians. There is also Wine to be had; but Provisions go off at a very good rate. Before I go any farther, I must take notice of one thing in particular, concerning the people called Augans, who inhabit from Candahar to Caboul, toward the Mountains of Balch, a sturdy sort of people, and great Robbers in the nighttime. It is the custom of the Indians to cleanse and scrape their tongues every morning with a crooked piece of a root, which causes them to void a great quantity of Phlegm and Rheum, and provokes vomiting. Now though those people that inhabit the Frontiers of Persia and India practice the same thing; nevertheless they vomit very little in the morning, but when they come to eat, as soon as they have swallowed two or three bits, their lungs begin to swell, and they are constrained to go forth and vomit; after which, they return again to their Victuals with a very good appetite. Should they not do so, they would not live above thirty years; and besides, they would be troubled with the Dropsy. From Caboul to Bariabe, costs 19 From Bariabe to Nimela, costs 17 From Nimela to Alibova, costs 19 From Alibova to Taka, costs 17 From Taka to Kiemri, costs 6 From Kiemri to Chaour, costs 14 From Chaour to Novechaar, costs 14 From Novechaar to Atek, costs 19 Atek is a City situated upon a point of Land where two Rivers meet together. 'Tis one of the best and strongest Garrisons the Great Mogul has; into which there is no stranger permitted to enter without a Passport from the King. Father Roux the Jesuit and his Companion, going this way to Ispahan, and not having the King's Passport, were forced to return back to Lahor, where they embarked upon the River for Scimdi, from whence they passed into Persia. From Atek to Calapane, costs 16 From Calapane to Roupate, costs 16 From Roupate to Toulapeca, costs 16 From Toulapeca to Keraly, costs 19 From Keraly to Zerabad, costs 16 From Zerabad to Imiabad, costs 18 From Imiabad to Lahor, costs 18 Lahor is the Metropolis of a Kingdom, built upon one of the five Rivers that descend from the Mountains of the North to swell the River Indus; and give the name of Peniab to all the Region which they water. This River at this time flows not within a league of the Town, being subject to change its Channel, and many times does very great mischief to the adjoining Fields, through the rapid deluges which it makes. The City is large, and extends itself above a league in length. But the greatest part of the Houses, which are higher than those of Agra and Deli, fall to ruin, by reason of the excessive rains that have overflowed a great number of them. The King's Palace is an indifferent fair one, and is not, as formerly it was, upon the River, which is fallen off above a quarter of a league from it. There is Wine to be had at Lahor. I must observe by the by, that after you have past Lahor, and the Kingdom of Kakemir, that lies upon it toward the North, none of their Women have any hair upon any part of their bodies, and the Men but very little upon their chins. From Lahor to Menat-kan, costs 12 From Menat-kan to Faty-abad, costs 15 From Faty-abad to Sera-dakan, costs 15 From Sera-dakan to Sera-balour, costs 15 From Sera-balour to Sera-dourai, costs 12 From Sera-dourai to Serinde, costs 17 From Serinde to Sera-Mogoul, costs 15 From Sera-Mogoul to Sera-Chabas, costs 14 From Sera-Chabas to Dirauril, costs 17 From Dirauril to Sera-Crindal, costs 14 From Sera-Crindal to Guienaour, costs 21 From Guienaour to Dehly, costs 24 Before you go any farther, you are to take notice that all the way from Lahor to Dehly, and from Dehly to Agra, is a continual Walk set on both sides with fair Trees; an object most pleasing to the sight: But in some places the Trees are decayed, and there is no care taken to Plant others in their stead. Dehly is a great City near the River Gemma, which runs from the North to the South, afterwards from the West to the East; and aftaer it has passed by Agra and Kadione, empties itself into the Ganges. After Cha jaehan, had built the new. City of Gehanabad, which he called by his own Name; and where he chose rather to keep his Court, than at Agra, because the Climate is more temperate. Dehly is almost come to ruin, and indeed is nothing but an heap of Rubbish; there being no other Houses remaining but only for poor people. The Streets are narrow, and the Houses of Bambouc, as over all the rest of the Indies. Neither are there above three or four Lords of the Court that reside at Dehly, where they set up their Tents in great Enclosures, and in the same manner lodged the Reverend Jesuit that was at Court. Gehanabad, as well as Dehly, is a great City; and there is nothing but a single Wall that makes the separation. All the Houses of particular men consist of great Enclosures, in the midst whereof is the place for Lodgings. The greatest part of the Lords do not live in the City, but have their Houses without, for the conveniency of the water. As you enter into Gehanabad from Dehly, you meet with a long and broad Street, on each side whereof are Vaults, where the Merchants keep shops, being only platformed at the top. This street ends in the great Piazza before the King's House; and there is another very fair and large Street, that runs toward another Gate of the same Palace, in which live the great Merchants that keep no Shops. The King's Palace takes up above half a league in circuit: The Walls are of fair cut-Stone with Battlements. The Moats are full of water, paved with Freestone. The great Gate of the Palace has nothing in it of magnificence; no more than the first Court, into which the great Lords may enter upon their Elephants. Having past that Court, you enter into another long and large passage, with fair Porticoes on both sides. Under which are several little Chambers, where part of the Horse-Guard lies. These Porticoes are raised some two foot above the ground, and the Horses which are tied without, feed upon the steps. In some places there are great Gates that lead to several Apartments; as to the women's Lodgings, and to the Seat of Justice. In the midst of the passage runs a Cut full of water, leaving a fair Walk on each side, where, at equal distances, are little Basins or Fountains. This long Passage carries you into a great Court, where the Omras, that is to say, the great Lords of the Kingdom, such as the Bassa's in Turkey, and the Khan's in Persia, keep Guard in Person. They have low Lodgings round about the Court, and their Horses are tied to their doors. From this second Court you pass into a third, through a great Portal; on one side whereof there is a little Hall, raised some two or three steps high from the ground. This is the Wardrobe where the Royal Garments are kept; and from whence the King sends for the Calaat, or a whole Habit for a man, when he would honour any Stranger, or any one of his own Subjects. A little farther, under the same Portal, is the place where the Drums, Trumpets, and Hautboys are laid up; which they sound and beat a little before the King enters into his Judgment-Seat, to give notice to the Omrah's; and they make the same noise when the King is ready to rise. Entering into the third Court, you see the Divan before you, where the King gives Audience. This is a great Hall raised some four-foot-high above the superficies of the Court, with three sides open. Thirty-two Pillars sustain as many Arches; and these Columns are about four-foot-square, with Pedestals and Mouldings. When Cha-jehan first begun to build this Hall, he intended to have enriched it, and inlaid it all over with those Stones that seem to be naturally painted, like those in the Great Duke of Tuscany's Chapel. But having made a trial upon two or three Pillars, about two or three-foot-high, he found that there would not be Stones enough, of that sort, in the World to finish the work; besides the vastness of the Sum it would come to. So that he left off his design, contenting himself with a Painting of several flowers. In the middle of this Hall, next to the side which looks toward the Court, there is a Throne erected upon a kind of Theatre, where the King gives Audience, and pronounces Judgement. The Throne is a little Bed, with four Columns, about the bigness of one of our Field-Beds, with a Canopy, Backpiece, Bolster and Counterpoint, all embroidered with Diamonds. Besides all this, when the King comes to sit upon the Throne, they throw over the Bed a Coverlet of Cloth of Gold, or some other richly-embroidered Silk, and he ascends by three little steps, two-foot-broad. On one side of the Bed is erected an Umbrello upon a Staff, as long as an Half-Pike. Upon one of the Pillars of the Throne hangs one of the King's Weapons, upon another his Buckler; upon another his Scimitar; and then his Bow and Quiver of Arrows, and other things of the same nature. Below the Throne there is a place some twenty-foot-square, encompassed with Balusters, which at some times are covered with Plates of Silver, at other times with Plates of Gold. At the four Corners of this small enclosure sit the four Secretaries of State, who as well in Civil as Criminal Causes, do the duty of Advocates. Many Lords stunned about this Balostrade; and there is also the Music placed, that plays all the while the King is in the Divan. This Music is so sweet and soft, that it never takes off the mind from the seriousness of business at that time managed. The King being sat upon his Throne, some great Lord stands by him; generally it is some one of his own Children. Between eleven a Clock and Noon, the Nahab; who is the chief Minister of State, like the Grand Vizier in Turkey, makes a report to the King of what has passed in the Chamber where he Presides, which is at the Entry of the first Court; and when he has done speaking, the King riseth. For you must take notice, that from the time that the King is sat upon his Throne, till he rises, no person whatsoever is permitted to stir out of the Palace; and yet I can say that the King dispensed with my performance of this Law so generally observed by all the Court: The occasion whereof was thus in short. Being one day going out of the Palace, while the King was sitting in the Divan, upon some urgent business that would admit of no delay, the Captain of the Guards held me by the arm, and told me I should go no farther; I contested and argued the Case with him for some time, but finding his usage to be very boisterous, I lifted up my Cane, and had certainly struck him in my passion, had not two or three of the Guards that saw all the passages, held my hand. Happily for me at that time, the Nahab, who was then the King's Uncle, came by, and being informed of the ground of our quarrel; ordered the Captain of the Guards to let me go. After that he made a report to the King how the matter stood; and toward evening the Nahab sent me one of his Servants to tell me, it was his Majesty's pleasure, that I might come in or go out of the Palace, though he were sitting in the Divan, as I pleased myself; for which I went the next day, and returned thanks to the Nahab. Toward the middle of the same Court there is a small Channel some five or six inches broad, where while the King is sitting upon the Seat of Justice, they that have business are to stand. Further it is not lawful for them to go, till they are called; and, Ambassadors themselves are not exempted from this custom. When an Ambassador comes as far as this Channel, the Master of the Ceremonies calls out toward the Divan where the King is sitting, that such an Ambassador craves Audience of his Majesty. Then one of the Secretaries of State declares it to the King; who oftentimes makes as if he did not hear: But some time after lifting up his eyes, he casts them upon the Ambassador, making him a sign by the same Secretary, that he may approach. From the Hall of the Divan, turning to the left, you walk upon a Terrace, where you discover the River. Over this Terrace the King passes into a little Chamber, from whence he goes into his Haram. In this little Chamber it was that I had my first Audience of his Majesty; as I shall relate in another place. Upon the lefthand of the Court where the Divan is built, stands a little Mosque neatly built; the Cupola whereof is covered with Lead perfectly guilded. Here the King goes to hear Prayers every day, except it be Fridays, when he is to go to the great Mosque, which is a very fair one, and placed upon an high Platform, raised higher than the Houses of the City, and there is a noble ascent to it. That day that the King goes to the Mosque, they place huge rails of wood round about the steps, as well to keep off the Elephants, as out of respect to the Mosque. The rightside of the Court is taken up with Porticoes, that make a long Gallery, raised from the ground about half a foot; and these are the King's Stables, into which you have many doors to enter. They are also full of stately Horses, the worst whereof stands the King in three-thousand Crowns; and there are some that cost him ten-thousand. At the door of every one of these Stables hangs a kind of Mat made of Bambouc, that cleaves like our Osiers. But whereas we bind our Osier-twigs with the same Osier, they bind their Bamboucs with wreathed-silk, which is delicate work, but very tedious. These Mats are to hinder the Flies from tormenting the Horses; there being two Grooms to an Horse, one of which is still employed in sanning the Beast. There are also Mats spread before the Porticoes, and before the Stable-door; which they spread or take away as occasion requires. And the Floor of the Gallery is covered with fair Carpets, which is taken away in the evening, and the Horse's Litter strowed in the same place. Which Litter is nothing but the Horse-dung dried in the Sun, and then squeezed a little flat. The Horses that are brought into India either out of Persia, Arabia, or the Country of Vsbech, change their food: For in India they never give them Hay nor Oats. Every Horse in the morning having for his proportion three loaves made of Meal, Wheat, and Butter, as big as one of our six-penny-loaves. 'Tis an hard matter to bring them to this diet at first; it being sometimes three or four Months before they can do it. The Groom is forced to hold their tongue in one hand, and to thrust down the bread with the other. When Sugarcanes or Millet are in season, they give them that diet about noon; and in the evening, two hours before Sunset, they give them a measure of Garden-Chiches which the Groom squeezes between two stones, and mixes with water. This is instead of Barley and Oats. As for the King's other Stables, where he has also very fine Horses, they are scurvy places, ill-built, which deserve not to be mentioned. The Gemene is a fair River that bears good big Boats, which running to Agra loses its name, falling into Ganges at Hallabas. The King has several small Brigantines at Gehanabad upon the River, to take his pleasure in; and they are very curiously trimmed after the manner of the Country. CHAP. VII. The continuance of the same Road from Dehly to Agra. FRom Dehly to Badelpoura, costs 8 From Radelpoura to Pelvel-ki-sera, costs 18 From Pelvel-ki-sera to Cotki-sera, costs 15 From Cotki-sera to Cheki-sera, costs 16 At Cheki-sera is one of the greatest Pagods of the Indians, together with an Hospital for Apes; as well for those that breed thereabouts, as for those that come from the neighbouring-parts, which the Banians are very careful to feed. This Pagod is called Matura, and it was formerly in far greater veneration than it is at this day. The reason is, because the Gemene ran then just at the very foot of the Pagod; wherein the Banians, as well those of the Country, as those that came from remote parts in Pilgrimage, had the convenience to wash themselves before they went to their Devotions; and when they had performed them, to wash again before they eat; which they are not to do ere they have washed; believing also that if they wash in running-water, their sins will be the more easily defaced. But some years since the River, changing its course more to the Northward, comes not within a good league of the Pagod, which is the reason that the Pilgrims have deserted it. From Cheki-sera to Goodki-sera, costs 5 From Goodki-sera to Agra, costs 6 Agra lies in 27 deg. 31 min. of Lat. and in a Sandy-soil, which causes extremity of heat. It is the biggest City in India, and formerly the Residence of their Kings. The Houses of great Persons are fair, and well-built; but the Houses of the meaner-sort are as plain, as in all the other Cities of India. They are built a good distance one from another, and hid by the height of their Walls, to keep their Women from being seen: So that it may be easily conjectured that their Cities are nothing so pleasant as ours in Europe. Add to this, that Agra being encompassed round with the Sands, the heats are there very excessive, which constrained Cha-jehan to remove from thence, and to keep his Court at Gehanabad. All that is remarkable in Agra is the King's Palace; and some Monuments as well near the City, as in the parts about it. The Palace of the King is a vast piece of ground encompassed with a double-wall, which is terraced in some parts, and in those parts are built certain Lodgings for some of the Officers of the Court: The Gemene runs before the Palace; but between the Wall and the River there is a large space of ground, where the King causes his Elephants to fight. This Field is on purpose near the water, because that the Elephant which gets the victory, being in a fury, they could not bring him to himself, did they not drive him into the River: to which end they are forced to have recourse to Policy, by tying Squibs and Crackers to the end of an Half-Pike, and then giving fire to them to fright him into the water: for when he is in but two or three-foot-deep, he is presently appeased. There is a wide Piazza upon one side of the City before the Palace, and the first Gate, wherein there is nothing of magnificence, is guarded by a few Soldiers. Before the King removed his Court from Agra to Gehanabad, when he went into the Country for some time, he gave to some one of his greatest Omrah's, who was his Confident, the Guard of his Palace, where his Treasure lay; and till the return of the King he never stirred out of the Gate, where he lodged, neither by night nor day. At such a time as that it was, that I was permitted to see the Palace of Agra. The King being debarred for Gehanavad, whither all the Court followed him, together with the Women, the Government of the Palace was given to one that was a great Friend to the Hollanders, and indeed to all the Franguis. Menheir Velant, chief of the Holland-Factory at Agra, so soon as the King was departed, went to visit the Lord, and to present him according to custom. The Present was worth about 6000 Crowns, and consisted in Spices, Cabinets of Japan, and fine Holland-cloth. He desired me to go along with him when he went to Compliment the Governor. But the Lord being offended that he had put himself to so much charge, forced him to carry the Present back again, taking only one Japan-Cane, of six that were in the Present, telling him he would have no more, out of the kindness which he had for the Franguiz. Nay, he would not so much as take the Goldhead and Ferula, but caused them to be taken off. The Compliments being over, the Governor asked Menheir Velant, wherein he might serve him: whereupon he desiring the favour, that since the Court was gone, he might see the inside of the Palace, the Governor granted his request, and ordered six men to attend him. The first Gate where the Governor of the Palace lies, is a long blind Arch, which leads you into a large Court all environed with Porticoes; like our Piazza in Covent-Garden. The Gallery in front is larger and higher than any of the rest, sustained by three ranks of Pillars, and under those Galleries on the other side of the Court which are narrower and lower, are little Chambers for the Soldiers of the Guard. In the midst of the large Gallery, is a Nich in the Wall, into which the King descends out of his Haram by a private pair of Stairs, and when he is in, he seems to be in a kind of a Tomb. He has no Guards with him then, for he has no reason to be afraid of any thing; there being no way to come at him. In the heat of the day he keeps himself there only with one Eunuch, but more often with one of his Children, to fan him. The Great Lords of the Court stay below in the Gallery under the Nich all the while. At the farther end of this Court is another Gate that leads into a second Court encompassed with Galleries, underneath which, are little Chambers for some Officers of the Palace. The second Court carries you into a third, which is the King's Quarter. Cha-jehan had resolved to cover with Silver all the Arch of a Gallery upon the right-hand. And a Frenchman, Austin de Bourdeaux by name, was to have done the work: but the King not finding any one in his whole Kingdom so capable as the Frenchman was to treat with the Portugals at Goa about some important affair he had at that time; the design was laid aside: For they being afraid of Austin's Parts, poisoned him upon his return to Cochin. This Gallery is painted with branched-work of Gold and Azure, and the lower-part is hung with Tapestry. There are several doors under the Gallery that lead into little square-Chambers; of which we saw two or three opened, and they told us all the rest were such. The other three sides of the Court lie all open, there being nothing but a single Wall, no higher than for a man to lean over. On the side that looks toward the River there is a Divan, or a kind of out-jutting Balcone, where the King sits to see his Brigantines, or to behold his Elephants fight. Before the Divan is a Gallery, that serves for a Portico; which Cha-jehan had a design to have adorned all over with a kind of Lattice-work of Emeralds and Rubies that should have represented to the life Grapes when they are green, and when they begin to grow red. But this design which made such a noise in the World, and required more Riches, than all the World could afford to perfect, remains unfinished; there being only three Stocks of a Vine in Gold, with their leaves, as the rest ought to have been; and enamelled in their natural colours, with Emeralds, Rubies and Granates wrought into the fashion of Grapes. In the middle of the Court stands a great Fat to bathe in, 40 foot in Diameter, cut out of one entire grey-stone, with steps wrought out of the same stone within and without. As for the Monuments which are in and about Agra, they are very fair ones; for there is scarce an Eunuch belonging to the King's Haram, that is not very ambitious of leaving a fair Monument behind him. Indeed, when they have heaped together great Sums, they would fain be going to Mecca, and making rich Presents to Mahomet. But the Great Mogul, unwilling to let his Money go out of his Country, will seldom permit them leave to undertake that Pilgrimage: and therefore not knowing what to do with their Money, they employ a great part thereof in Monuments, to perpetuate their Memories. Of all the Monuments that are to be seen at Agra, that of the Wise of Cha-jehan is the most magnificent; she caused it to be set up on purpose near the Tasimacan, to which all Strangers must come, that they should admire it. The Tasimacan is a great Bazar, or Marketplace, composed of six great Courts, all encompassed with Porticoes; under which there are Warehouses for Merchants; and where there is a prodigious quantity of Calicuts vended. The Monument of this Degum, or Sultaness, stands on the East-side of the City, upon the River side, in a great place enclosed with Walls, upon which there runs a little Gallery, as upon the Walls of many Cities in Europe. This place is a kind of Garden with Compartments, like our Garden-plots; but whereas our Walks are made with Gravel, here the Walks are black and white Marble. You enter into this place through a large Portal; and presently upon the left hand you espy a fair Gallery, that looks towards Mecca; wherein there are three or four Niches, wherein the Mufti comes at certain hours to pray. A little beyond the middle of the place, toward the Water, are three great Platforms, one raised above another, with four Towers at the four Corners of each, and Stairs within, upon the top whereof they call the people before the time of their prayer. On the top there is a Cupola, little less magnificent than that of Val de Grace in Paris; it is covered within and without with black Marble, the middle being of Brick. Under this Cupola is an empty Tomb; for the Begum is interred under the Arch of the lowest Platform. The same change of Ceremonies which is observed under ground, is observed above. For they change the Tapestries, Candles, and other Ornaments at several times, and there are always Mollah's attending to pray. I saw the beginning and completing of this great work, that colt two and twenty years' labour, and twenty thousand men always at work; so that you cannot conceive but that the Expense must be excessive. Cha-jehan had begun to raise his own Monument on the other side of the River; but the Wars with his Son, broke off that design, nor did Aurengzeb, now reigning, ever take any care to finish it. There is an Eunuch who commands two thousand men, that is entrusted to guard not only the Sepulchre of the Begum, but also the Tasimacan. On another side of the City, appears the Sepulchre of King Akabar. And as for the Sepulchers of the Eunuches, they have only one Platform, with four little Chambers at the four Corners. When you come to Agra from Dehly, you meet a great Bazar; near to which there is a Garden, where King Jehan-guire, Father of Cha-jehan, lies interred. Over the Garden Gate you see the Tomb itself, beset with Portraitures, covered with a black Hearse-cloth, or Pall, with Torches of white Wax, and two Jesuits attending at each end. There are some who wonder, that Cha-jehan against the practice of the Mahometans, who abhor Images, did permit of carving; but the reason conjectured at is, that it is done upon the consideration that his Father and himself learned from the Jesuits certain principles of Mathematics and Astrology. Though he had not the same kindness for them at another time; for going one day to visit an Armenian, that lay sick, whose name was Corgia, whom he loved very well, and had honoured with several Employments, at what time the Jesuits, who lived next to the Armenians house, rang their Bell; the sound thereof so displeased the King, as being a disturbance to the sick person, that in a great fury he commanded the Bell to be taken away, and hung about his Elephant's neck. Some few days after, the King seeing his Elephant with that great Bell about his neck, fearing so great a weight might injure his Elephant, caused the Bell to be carried to the Couteval, which is a kind of a railed place, where a Provost sits as a Judge, and decides differences among the people of that Quarter, where it has hung ever since. This Armenian had been brought up with Cha-jehan; and in regard he was an excellent Wit, and an excellent Poet, he was very much in the King's favour, who had conferred upon him many fair Commands, though he could never either by threats or promises win him to turn Mahometan. CHAP. VIII. The Road from Agra to Patna, and Daca, Cities in the Province of Bengala, and of the Quarrel which the Author had with Cha-Est-Kan, the King's Uncle. I Departed from Agra toward Bengala the 25 th' of November 1665, and that day I reached no farther than a very bad Inn, distant from Agra, costs 3 The 26 th' I came to Beruzabad, costs 9 This is a little City where, at my return, I received eight thousand Roupies, being the remainder of the Money which Giafer-Kan owed me for Wares that he had bought at Janabat. The 27 th' to Serael Morlides, costs 9 The 28 th' to Serail Estanja, costs 14 The 29 th' to Serail Haii-mal, costs 12 The 30 th'. to Serail Sekandera, costs 13 The 1st of December to Sanqual, costs 14 I met that day 110 Wagons, every Wagon drawn by sixOxen, & in every Wagon 50000 Roupies. This is the Revenue of the Province of Bengala, with all charges defrayed, and the Governor's Purse well-filled, comes to 5500000 Roupies. A league beyond Sanqual, you must pass a River called Saingour, which runs into Gemine, not above half a league distant from it. You pass over this River of Saingour upon a Stone-bridge, and when you come from toward Bengala to go to Seronge or Surat, if you have a mind to shorten your journey ten days, you must leave Agra-Road, and come to this Bridge, and so Ferry over Gemine in a Boat. But generally Agra-Road is taken, because the other way you must travel five or six days together upon the stones; and also for that you are to pass through the Territories of certain rajas, where you are in danger of being robbed. The second day I came to an Inn called Cherourabad, costs 12 When you are got about half the way, you pass through Gianabad, a little City, near to which, about a quarter of a League on this side, crossing a Field of Millet, I saw a Rhinoceros feeding upon Millet-Canes, which a little Boy of nine or ten years old gave him to eat. When I came near the Boy, he gave me some Millet to give the Rhinoceros; who immediately came to me, opening his chaps three or four times; I put the Millet into his mouth, and when he had swallowed it, he still opened his mouth for more. The 3 d I came to Serrail Chajeada, costs 10 The 4 th' to Serrail Atakan, costs 13 The 5 th' to Aureng-Abad, costs 9 Formerly this Village had another name; but being the place where Aurengzeb gave Battle to his Brother Sultan Sujah, who was Governor of all the Province of Bengala; Aurengzeb, in Memory of the Victory he had won, gave it his own name, and built there a very fair House, with a Garden, and a little Mosque. The 6 th' to Alinchan, costs 9 Two leagues on this side Alinchan, you meet the River Ganges. Monsieur Bernier the King's Physician, and another person whose name was Rachepot, with whom I travelled, were amazed to see, that a River that had made such a noise in the World, was no broader than the River Seine before the Louvre; believing before, that it had been as wide as the Danaw above Belgrade. There is also so little water in it from March to June or July, when the reins fall, that it will not bear a small Boat. When we came to Ganges, we drank every one of us a Glass of Wine, mixing some of the Riverwater with it; which caused a griping in our bellies: But our Servants that drank it alone, were worse tormented than we. The Hollanders, who have an House upon the Bank of Ganges, never drink the water of this River, until they have boiled it. But for the natural Inhabitants of the Country, they are so accustomed to it from their youth, that the King and the Court drink no other. You shall see a vast number of Camels every day, whose business only it is to fetch water from the Ganges. The 7 th', I came to Halabas, costs 8 Halabas is a great City, built upon a point of Land where Ganges and Gemine meet. There is a fair Castle of hewn Stone, with a double Moat; where the Governor resides. He is one of the greatest Lords in India; and being very sickly, he has always about him ten Persian Physicians. He had also in his service, Claudius Maille of Bourges, who practices Chirurgery and Physic both together. This was he that advised us not to drink of Ganges Water, which would put us into a looseness; but rather to drink Well-water. The chief of these Persian Physicians, whom this Governor hires with his Money, one day threw his Wife from the top of a Battlement to the ground; prompted to that act of cruelty, by some jealousies he had entertained. He thought the fall had killed her, but she had only a Rib or two bruised; whereupon the Kindred of the Woman came and demanded justice, at the feet of the Governor. The Governor sending for the Physician, commanded him to be gone, resolving to retain him no longer in his service. The Physician obeyed, and putting his maimed Wife in a Pallanquin, he set forward upon the Road with all his Family. But he was not gone above three or four days journey from the City, when the Governor finding himself worse than he was wont to be, sent to recall him; which the Physician perceiving, stabbed his Wife, his four Children, and thirteen female Slaves, and returned again to the Governor, who said not a word to him, but entertained him again into his service. The eighth day I crossed the River in a large Boat, having stayed from morning till noon upon the bankside, expecting Monsieur Maille, to bring me a Passport from the Governor. For there stands a Deroga upon each side of the River, who will not suffer any person to pass without leave; and he takes notice what sort of Goods are transported; there being due from every Wagon four Roupies, and from every Coach one; not accounting the charge of the Boat, which you must pay beside. The same day I went to Sadoul-serail, costs 16 The ninth, to Yakedel-sera, costs 10 The tenth, to Bouraki-sera, costs 10 The eleventh, to Banarou, costs 10 Banarou is a large City, and handsomely built; the most part of the Houses being either of Brick or Stone, and higher than in any other Cities of India; but the inconveniency is, that the Streets are very narrow. There are many Inns in the Town; among the rest, one very large, and very handsomely built. In the middle of the Court are two Galleries, where are to be sold Calicuts, Silks, and other sorts of Merchandise. The greatest part of the Sellers, are the Workmen themselves; so that the Merchants buy at the first hand. These Workmen, before they expose any thing to sale, must go to him that has the stamp, to have the Kings Seal set upon their Linen and Silks; otherwise they would be fined, and lambasted with a good Cudgel. This City is situated upon the North side of Ganges, that runs by the Walls, and into which there falls also another River, some two Leagues upward toward the West. In Banarou stands one of the Idolaters principal Pagods, whereof I shall speak in my second Book, when I come to treat of the Religion of the Banians. About five hundred paces from the City Northward, there is a Mosque, where are to be seen many Mahometan Sepulehers; whereof some are very curious pieces of Architecture. The fairest are every one in the middle of a Garden enclosed with Walls, wherein there are Holes some half a foot square, through which Passengers may have a sight of the Tomb within. The most considerable of all is as it were a four square Pedestal, every square whereof is forty paces wide. In the midst of this Platform rises a Column thirty-two or thirtyfive foot high, all of a piece, which three men can hardly embrace. The Stone is of a grey colour, and so hard that I could not scrape it with my Knife. As it is Pyramidical, there is a great Bowl at the top, which is encompassed at the upper end with huge Grains of Wheat. All the fronts of the Tomb are full of figures of Animals cut in the Stone; and it has been higher above ground than now it seems to be, for several old men, that looked to some of the Sepulchers, assured me, that within these fifty years it had sunk above thirty foot into the Earth. They tell you moreover, that it is the Sepulchre of one of the Kings of Boutan, who was interred here after he had left his own Country to conquer this Kingdom, out of which he was driven by the Successors of Tamerlane. The Kingdom of Boutan is the place from whence they fetch Musk, and I will give you a description of it in my third Book. I stayed at Banarou the 12 th' and 13 th'; and during those two days it reigned continually, but not so as to stop my journey; so that the evening of the thirteenth day I crossed the Ganges, with the Governors' Passport. Before you go into the Boat, they search the Traveller's baggage; wearing Apparel however pays nothing of Custom, but only Merchandise. The 13 th', I went to Baterpour, costs 2 The 14 th', to Satraguy-sera, costs 8 The 15 th', to Moniarky-sera, costs 9 The same day in the morning, after I had travelled two Leagues, I crossed a River called Carnasarsou; and three Leagues from thence I crossed another, which they call Saode-sou; both which I forded. The 16 th', to Gourmabad, costs 8 This is a Town upon a River called Goudera-sou, which is crossed over a Stone-Bridg. The 17 th', to Saseron, costs 4 Saseron is a City at the foot of certain Mountains, near to which there is a great Lake. In the middle whereof there is a small Island, with a fair Mosque built upon it; wherein is to be seen, the Sepulchre of a Nahab or Favourite, called Selim-Kan; who built it when he was Governor of the Province. There is a fair Bridge to cross over into the Island, paved and lined with large free Stone. Upon one side of the Lake is a great Garden, in the middle whereof is another fair Sepulchre of the Son of the same Nahab, Selim-Kan, who succeeded his Father in the Government of the Province. If you would go to the Mine of Soulmelpour, whereof I shall speak in the last Book of these Relations, you must leave the great Road to Patna, and bend to the South through Exberbourgh, and the famous Fortress of Rhodes, of which I shall treat in the same place. The 18 th', I ferried in a Boat over the River Sonsou, which descends from the Southern Mountains; after you have crossed it, the Merchandise pays a certain Toll. The same day I travelled on to Daoud-Nagar-sera, where there is a fair Tomb, costs 9 The 19 th', to Halva-sera, costs 10 The 20 th', to Aga-sera, costs 9 In the morning I met a hundred and thirty Elephants, great and small, which they were leading to Dehli to the great Mogul. The one and twentienth, to Patna, costs 10 Patna is one of the greatest Cities of India, upon the Bank of Ganges, toward the West; not being less than two Leagues in length. But the Houses are no fairer than in the greatest part of the other Cities of India; being covered with Bambouck, or Straw. The Holland Company have a House there, by reason of their Trade in Saltpetre, which they refine at a great Town called Choupar, which is also situated upon Ganges, ten Leagues above Patna. Coming to Patna, we met the Hollanders, in the Street returning from Choupar, who stopped our Coaches to salute us. We did not part, till we had emptied two Bottles of Sohiras Wine in the open Street; which is not taken notice of in that Country, where people meet with an entire freedom without any Ceremony. I stayed eight days at Patna, during which time there fell out an accident, which will let the Reader understand, that Sodomy does not go altogether unpunished among the Mahometans. A Mimbachi, who commanded a thousand Foot, went about to abuse a young Boy in his service; and who had several times resisted his attempts; complaining also to the Governor, and telling him withal, that if his Master persisted to urge him any more, he would certainly kill him. At length the Captain took his opportunity, at a House which he had in the Country, and forced the Boy. The Boy overwhelmed with grief and rage, took his opportunity also to revenge himself; and being one day hunting with his Master, about a quarter of a League from any of his other Servants, he got behind him, and cloven his head with his Hanger. After he had done, he road full speed to the City, crying out all the way, that he had killed his Master for such a reason; and went immediately to the Governors' Lodging, who sent him to prison; but he let him out at the end of six months; and notwithstanding all the endeavours which the Captain's Kindred used to have had him put to death, the Governor durst not condemn him, for fear of the people, who affirmed that the Boy had done well. I parted from Patna in a Boat for Daca, the nine and twentieth of January, between eleven and twelve at noon; and had the River been deep, as it uses to be after the Rains, I had taken Boat at Hallabas, or at least at Banarou. The same day I came to lie at sera-Beconcour, costs 15 Five Leagues on this side Beconcour, you meet with a River called Pomponsou, which comes from the South, and falls into Ganges. The thirtieth to Sera-d'Erija, costs 17 The one and thirtieth, after we had travelled four Leagues, or thereabout, we met with the River Kaoa, which comes from the South. Three Leagues lower, you meet with another River called canon, which comes from the North. Four Leagues farther, you discover the River Erguga, which runs from the South; and at length, six Leagues, beyond, the River Aquera, falling from the same part of the World; all which four Rivers lose their Names in the Ganges. All that day I saw great Mountains toward the South, distant from Ganges sometimes ten, and sometimes fifteen Leagues, till at length I came to lodge in Monger-City, costs 18 The first day of January; 1666, after I had gone by Water two hours, I saw the Gandet fall into the Ganges, flowing from the North. This is a great River, that carries Boats. That eveining I lay at Zangira, costs 8 But in regard of the winding of Ganges all that days journey, I might well reckon them by Water two and twenty Leagues. The second day, from between six in the morning till eleven, I saw three Rivers that threw themselves into Ganges, all three descending from the North. The first is called Ronova, the second Then the third Ghanan. I came to lie at Baquelpour, costs 18 The third, after four hours upon the Ganges, I met the River Katare, which comes from the North; and lay at a Village called Pongangel, at the foot of certain Mountains that descend to Ganges itself, costs 13 The fourth, an hours rowing beyond Pongangel, I met a great River, called Mart-Nadi, coming from the South; and I lay at Rage-Mehale, costs 6 Rage-Mehale, is a City upon the right hand of Ganges; and if you go by Land, you shall find the highway, for a League or two, paved with Brick to the Town. Formerly the Governors of Bengala resided here; it being an excellent Country for hunting, besides that it was a place of great Trade. But now the River having taken another course, above a good half League from the City, as well for that reason, as to keep in awe the King of Aracan, and several Portuguese Banditi, who are retired to the mouths of Ganges, and made excursions even as far as Daca itself; both the Governor and the Merchants have removed themselves to Daca, which is at present a large City, and a Town of great Trade. The sixth, being arrived at a considerable Town, called Donapour, six Leagues from Rage-Mehale, I parted with Monsieur Bernier, who was going to Casenbasar, and thence to Ogouli by Land; for when the River is low, there is no going by Water, by reason of a great Bank of Sand that lies before a City called Santiqui. I lay that night at Toutipour, distant from Rage-mehale, costs 12 I saw there at Sunrising a great number of Crocodiles lying upon the Sand. The seventh, I came to Acerat, costs 25 From Acerat to Daca, it is counted by Land forty-five Leagues. All that day I saw such a vast number of Crocodiles, that I had a great desire to shoot at one, to try whether the vulgar report were true, that a Musket-shot would not pierce their skin. The bullet hit him in the jaw, and made the blood gush out; however he would not stay in the place, but plunged into the River. The eighth, I saw again a great number lying upon the bank of the River, and made two shot at two with three bullets at a time. As soon as they were wounded, they turned themselves upon their backs, opening their throats, and died upon the spot. That day I came to lie at Douloudia, costs 17 The Crows were here the cause that we found a very fair Fish, which the Fishermen had hid among the Osiers by the side of the River; for when our Watermens saw the Crows in great numbers hover, and making an hideous noise about the Osiers, they presently conjectured that there was something more than ordinary: and they made so diligent a search, that at length they found an excellent dish of meat. The ninth, two hours after noon, we met with a River called Chativor, that runs from the North, and we lay at Dampour, costs 16 The tenth, we lay by the Riverside in a place remote from Houses, and we travelled that day, costs 15 The eleventh, toward evening, being come to that part where Ganges divides itself into three Arms, whereof one runs to Daca; we lay at a large Town, upon the entry of the great Channel, which Town is called Jatrapour, costs 20 They that have no luggage, may make a shortcut from Jatrapour to Daca, and save much ground, by reason of the many wind of the River. The eight, about noon, we passed by a large Village called Bagamara, and came to lie at Kasiata, another great Town, costs 11 The thirteenth, about noon we met with a River, two leagues from Daca, called Laquia, which runs from the North-East. Just against the Point where the two Rivers join, there stands a Fortress of each side, with several pieces of Cannon. Half a league lower, appears another River called Pagalu, upon which there is a fair Bridge of Brick, which Mirza-Mola caused to be built. This River comes from the North-East; and half a league upward appears another River called Cadamtali, that runs from the North, over which there is another Bridge of Brick. On both sides of the River are several Towers, as it were enchased with several heads of men, executed for robbing upon the highway. About evening we came to Daca, having travelled by water that day, costs 9 Daca is a great Town, that extends itself only in length; every one coveting to have an House by the Ganges-side. The length of this Town is above two leagues. And indeed from the last Brick-Bridg which I mentioned, to Daca, there is but one continued row of Houses separated one from the other; inhabited for the most part by Carpenters, that build Galleys and other small Vessels. These Houses are properly no more than paltry Huts built up with Bambout's; and daubed over with fat Earth. Those of Daca are not much better built: The Governor's Palace is a place enclosed with high Walls, in the midst whereof is a pitiful House, built only of Wood He generally lodges in Tents, which he causes to be set up in a great Court of that Enclosure. The Hollanders finding that their Goods were not safe in the ordinary Houses of Daca, have built them a very fair House; and the English have another, which is reasonably handsome. The Church of the Austin-friars-s is all of Brick, and is a very comely Pile. When I travelled last to Daca, the Nahab Cha-Est-Kan, who was then Governor of Bengala, was at War with the King of Arakan, whose-Naval-Force consists generally of 200 Galleasses, attended by several other smaller Vessels. These Galleasses run through the Gulf of Bengala, and enter into the mouth of Ganges, the Sea flowing up higher than Daca. Cha-Est-Kan, Uncle to King Aurengzeb, the present Mogul, and the best Head-piece that ever was in all his Territories, found out a way to corrupt several of the King of Aracan's Captains, so that of a sudden forty Galleasses, commanded by Portugals, came and joined themselves with him. To engage more firmly all this new multitude to his service, he gave a larger pay to all the Portugal-Officers, and to the Soldiers proportionably: But those of the Country had no more than their ordinary pay doubled. 'Tis an incredible thing to see how swiftly these Galleasses cut their way in the water. Some are so long that they carry fifty Oars of a side; but they have but two men to an Oar: There are some very curiously painted, and upon which there is no cost of Gold and Azure spared. The Hollanders have some of their own to transport their Goods; and sometimes they are forced to hire others, whereby many people get a good livelihood. The next day after my arrival at Daca, which was the 14 th' of January, I went to wait upon the Nahab; and presented him with a Garment of Cloth of Gold, laced with a Gold-needle-work Lace of Point of Spain; with a Scarf of Gold and Silver of the same Point; and a very fair Emerald-jewel. Toward evening, being returned to the Hollander's House, where I lodged, the Nahab sent me Granates, China-Oranges, two Persian-Melons, and three sorts of Pears. The fifteenth, I shown him my Goods, and presented the Prince with a Watch, in a Gold-Enamell'd-Case; with a pair of little Pistols inlaid with Silver, and a very fair Prospective-Glass. What I gave to the Father and the Son, a young Lord, about ten years old, stood me in above five thousand Livres. The sixteenth, I treated with him about the Prizes of my Goods: And at length I went to his Steward to take my Letter of Exchange to be paid at Casen-Bazar. Not but that he would have paid me my Money at Daca; but the Hollanders, who understood things better than I did, told me it was very dangerous to carry Money to Casen-Bazar, whither there was no going, but over the Ganges by water, the way by land being full of Bogs and Fens. And to go by water is no less dangerous, by reason that the Boats which they use, are very apt to tip over upon the least storm: And when the Mariners perceive that you carry Money along with you, 'tis an easy thing for them to overset the Boat, and afterwards to come and take up the Money that lies but at the bottom of the River. The twentieth, I took leave of the Nahab, who desired me to come and see him again, and caused a Pass to be delivered me, wherein he gave me the title of one of the Gentlemen of his House, which he had done before, when he was Governor of Amadabad, when I went to him, to the Army, in the Province of Decan, into which the Raja-seva-gi was entered, as I shall relate in another place. By virtue of these Passes I could travel over all the Countries of the Great Mogul, as being one of his Household. The one and twentieth, the Hollanders made a great Feast for my sake; to which they invited the English, and some Portuguese's, together with the Austin-friars-s of the same Nation. The two and twentieth, I made a Visit to the English, whose Precedent then was Mr. Prat. From the twenty-third to the twenty-ninth, I bought up Goods, to the value of 11000 Roupies; and after I had embarked them, I took my leave. The twenty-ninth, in the evening, I departed from Daca, the Hollanders bearing me company for two leagues, with their little Barks Armed: Nor did we spare the Spanish-Wine all that time. Having been upon the River from the twenty-ninth of January to the eleventh of February, I left my Goods and Servants in the Bark at Acerat; where I took a Boat that carried me to a great Village called Mirdapour. The next day I hired an Horse for myself, but not finding another for my Luggage, I was forced to hire two Women, who carried it for me. That evening I arrived at Casen-Basar, where I was welcomed by Menheir Arnold Van Wachttendonk, Director of all the Holland-Factories in Bengala, who invited me to lie at his House. The fourteenth, Menhoir Wachttendonk returned to Ouguely, where is the General Factory. The same day one of my Servants brought me word that my People and Goods, which I had left behind in the Bark, had been in very great danger, by reason of the high Winds that had blown for two days together. The fifteenth, the Hollanders lent me a Pallekis, to go to Madesou-basarki. This was a great Town three Leagues from Casen-basar, where lay Cha-Est-Kan's Receiver General, to whom I presented my Bill of Exchange. He told me it was very good, and that he would willingly have paid me, had he not received order the night before, not to pay me, in case he had not paid me already. He did not tell me the reason that moved Cha-Est-Kan to act in that manner; so that I went home to my Lodging infinitely surprised at his proceeding. The sixteenth, I wrote to the Nahab, to know the reason why he had forbade his Receiver General to pay me. The seventeenth in the evening, I took water for Ougueli, in a Bark of fourteen Oars, which the Hollanders lent me; and that night and the next I lay upon the River. The nineteenth toward evening, I passed by a large Town called Nandi, farther than which the Sea does not flow. Here the Wind blew so fiercely, and the Water grew so rough, that we were forced to stay three or four hours, and lie by the shore. The twentieth, I arrived at Ougueli, where I stayed till the second of March. During which time the Hollanders bid me very welcome, and made it their business to show me all the divertisements which the Country was capable to afford. We went several times in Pleasure-Boats upon the River, and we had a Banquet of all the Delicacies that the Gardens of Europe could have afforded us. Salads of all sorts, Colewarts, Asparagus, Pease, but our chiefest Dish was Japon Beans; the Hollanders being very curious to have all sorts of Pulse and Herbs in their Gardens, though they could never get Artichokes to grow in that Country. The second of March I left Ougueli, and the fifth arrived at Casenbasar. The next day I went to Madesou-Barsaki, to know whether the Nahab had sent any other orders to his Receiver. For I told you a little before, that I wrote upon the place to Cha-Est-Kan, to complain of his proceed, and to know the reason why my Bill of Exchange was not paid. The Director of the Holland Factories writ a Letter also in my behalf, which I enclosed, wherein he represented to the Nahab, that I was too well known to him, as having been formerly with him at Amadabat, in the Army in Decan, and other places, to deserve such hard usage. That he ought to consider, that I being the only person that brought the chiefest rarities of Europe to the Indies, it was not the way to make me eager of returning any more, as he himself had invited me to do, to send me away in a discontent. Besides, that the credit of my report would discourage others from coming to the Indies, fearing the same usage as I had received. Neither mine nor the Directors Letter produced that effect which we expected. Nor was I much better satisfied with the new order which the Nahab sent to his Receiver; which was to pay me, abating twenty thousand Roupies of the sum which we had agreed upon; and if I would not take the remainder, that I might come and fetch my goods again. This ill dealing of the Nahab, proceeded from a scurvy trick that was played me by three Canary-birds at the Great Mogul's Court. The story whereof was thus in short: Aurengzeb, that now reigns, at the instigation of two Persians and a Banian, has brought up a custom very much to the disadvantage of Merchants, that come out of Europe, and other parts, to sell Jewels at Court. For whether they come into India either by Land or Sea, the Governor of the place where they first arrive, has order to send them to the King, together with their goods, whether they will or no. As the Governor of Surat dealt by me, in the year 1665, sending me to Delhi, or Jehanabad, where the King was. There were then attending upon his Majesty, two Persians and a Banian, who are entrusted to view and examine all the Jewels which are to be sold to the King. One of those Persians is called Nahab-Akel-Kan, that is, the Prince of the Spirit; who keeps all the King's Jewels. The name of the other is Mirza-Mouson, whose business is to rate every stone. The Banian, whose name is Nalikan, is to see whether the Stones be false or not, or whether they have any defect. These three men have obtained a Licence from the King, to view, before ever he does, whatever foreign Merchants shall bring to Court, and to present their goods to him themselves. And though they are under an Oath not to take any thing from the Merchants, yet they extort whatever they can get from them, though it be to their ruin. When they see any thing that is lovely, and likely to bring great profit, they would persuade you to sell it to them for less by half than the thing is worth; and if you refuse to let them have it, when they are in the King's presence, they will set a price upon it at half the value; knowing that Aurengzeb is not very covetous of Jewels, loving his Money far better. Upon the King's Festival-day, of which I shall speak in another place, all the Princes and Nobility of the Court present him with most magnificent gifts. And when they cannot meet with Jewels, they send him Roupies of Gold, which the King likes far better than Stones; though Jewels are the more honourable present. Therefore when this Festival draws nigh, he issues out of his Treasury, a great quantity of Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, and Pearls, which he who is entrusted to prise the Stones, delivers to several Merchants to sell to the Nobility, who are bound to present the King; by which means the King gets the Money and his Jewels again. There is also another thing very disadvantageous to a Merchant Jeweller, which is, that when the King has seen the Stones, no Prince or Nobleman that knows of it, will ever buy them. Besides, while these three persons, who are entrusted to view the Jewels, are considering and examining them at their Lodgings, several Banians resort thither, who are expert, some in Diamonds, some in Rubies, some in Emeralds, and others in Pearls, who writ down the weight, goodness, cleanness, and colour of every piece. So that when a Merchant goes afterwards to any Prince or Governor of any Province, these people send them a note of what he has, and the price, which they set down at half the value. For in trade these Banians are a thousand times worse than the Jews; more expert in all sorts of cunning tricks, and more maliciously mischievous in their revenge. Now you shall hear what a trick these unworthy people served me. When I arrived at Gehanabad, one of them came to my Lodging, and told me, he had order from the King to see what I had brought, before I exposed my goods in the King's presence. They would have rather that the King had not been at Gehanabad, for they would have then endeavoured to have bought them themselves, to gain thereby, by selling them again to the King, or the Nobility upon occasion; which they could never persuade me to. The next day they came to see me all three, one after another; and they would needs have of me, amongst other things, a Jewel of nine great Pearls, in the fashion of a Pear, the biggest whereof weighed thirty Carats, and the least sixteen; together with another single Pearl like a Pear, of fifty-five Carats. As for the Jewel, the King took it; but for the single Pearl, they finding that whatever they could say, I would not be wrought upon to sell them any bargains, so ordered it, that before I had showed my Jewels to the King, Giafer-Kan the King's Uncle saw, and kept it, telling me he would give me as good a price as the King; and desired me not to speak of it, for indeed he had a design to make a present to the King. When the King had made choice of such of my Jewels as he pleased, Giafer-Kan bought of me several pieces, and at the same time agreed with me for the great Pearl. Some days after he paid me, according as we had agreed, except for the Pearl, upon which he would have abated me ten thousand Roupies. For the two Persians and the Banian had maliciously informed him, that at my first arrival, they could have bought the Pearl for eight or ten thousand Roupies less than I had valued it to him; which was absolutely false. Thereupon Giafer-Kan telling me, that if I would not take his Money, I might have my Jewel again; I took him at his word, assuring him, he should never see it again as long as he lived. And I was as good as my word. And indeed that which made me the more resolute was, that I was resolved to carry somesomething which was considerable to Cha-Est-Kan; for could I have had my liberty upon my arrival at Surat to have gone to him, I would never have seen the King at Gehanabad; about which I had a very great quarrel with the Governor of Surat. For when I came to visit him, he told me presently, that the case was altered from what it had been since my last being there, for that the King was resolved to have the first view of all Curiosities imported into his Kingdom. I was above four Months contending in vain with the Governor; but nothing would serve; I must go to the King, and for fear I should take another Road, he sent fifteen Horsemen along with me as far as Shalaour. When I went for Bengala, these Overseers of the Jewels, our of mere spite, and, it may be, set on by Giafer-Kan, to be revenged of me for denying to let him have my Jewel, writ to Cha-Est-Kan, that I intended to show him certain Jewels, among the rest a very fair Pearl, which I had sold to Giafer-Kan; but that he had given it me again, because he understood that I would have made him pay for it, ten thousand Roupies more than it was worth. They wrote also the particular proportion of all the other Stones which I carried. And upon this false and malicious advice it was, that Cha-Est-Kan, who received not this information till he had delivered me my Bill of Exchange, would abate me for my whole parcel, twenty thousand Roupies, which he reduced at length to ten thousand; and well I had it too. Since I told you before, what a Present I gave to Cha-Est-Kam; I think it not amiss to tell you, what I gave the King, to Nahab Giafer-Kan, to the Eunuch of the Grand Begum, Aurengzeb's Sister, the Great Treasurer, and the Porters of the Treasury. For you must take notice, that whoever he be, that craves Audience of the King, they ask him in the first place, where the Present is which he intends for the King; and examine whether it be fitting to present to his Majesty. For no man must come into his presence empty handed, though it be an honour dearly purchased. Coming then to Gehanabad, I went to make my obeisance to the King; and this is the Present which I made him. In the first place, a Buckler of Brass highly embossed, and very richly guilt, the cost of the Guilding alone amounting to two hundred Ducats of Gold, or eighteen hundred Livres; the value of the whole piece coming to four thousand three hundred seventy eight Livres. In the middle thereof was the story of Curtius, who threw himself and his Horse into the Barathrum, when the Earth gaped, near Rome. Round the outermost Circle of the Buckler, was represented the siege of Rochel. It was wrought by one of the best Workmen in France, by the order of Cardinal Richlieu. All the great Lords that were about Aurengzeb at that time, were charmed at the beauty of the Workmanship, and told him, he could not do better, than to put it upon the great Elephant, which carried the Standard before his Majesty when he marched into the Field. I presented him also with a Battle-Axe of Crystal of the Rock, the sides whereof were set with Rubies and Emeralds, enchased in Gold in the body of the Crystal, which cost three thousand one hundred and nineteen Livres. Moreover, I presented him with a Saddle after the Turkey fashion, embroidered with little Rubies, Pearls, and Diamonds, which cost two thousand eight hundred and ninety-two Livres. I presented him also with another Saddle and Foot-cloth, embroidered with Gold and Silver, to the value of one thousand seven hundred and thirty Livres. The whole Present amounting to twelve thousand one hundred and nineteen Livres. The Present which I made to Giafar-Kan, the Great Mogul's Uncle, was a Table, with other nineteen pieces to make a Cabinet, all natural Stones, of divers colours, representing the shapes of several Birds and Flowers. The work was made at Florence, and cost two thousand one hundred and fifty Livres. A perfect Ruby Ring, which cost one thousand and three hundred Livres. To the great Treasurer, I presented a Watch in a Gold Case, set with small Emeralds, at seven hundred and twenty Livres. To the Potters of the King's Treasury, and those that deliver out the Money out of the Treasury, two hundred Roupies, at three hundred Livres. To the Eunuch of the Great Begum, Sister to Aurengzeb, a Watch in a painted Case, which cost two hundred and sixty Livres. All these Presents which I made, as well to the Great Mogul, as to Cha-Est-Kan, Giaser-Kan, his Majesty's Uncles; as also the Great Treasurer, to the Stewards of the Houses of the Khan's, and those that brought me twice the Calaat, or Habit of Honour from the King, and as many times from the Begum his Sister, and once from Giafar Can; all these Presents, I say, came to twentythree thousand one hundred fourscore and seven Livres. So true it is, that they who have any business to do at the Court of the great Princes, as well in Turkey as in Persia and in the Indies, must not pretend to do any thing in reference to their affairs, till they have their Presents, and those very considerable, ready. Besides, that his Purse must be continually open to divers Officers of meaner reputation, who may be able to serve him. I did not mention in my first Volume the Present which I made to him that brought me the Calaat from the King of Persia, to whom I gave two hundred Crowns. CHAP. IX. The Road from Surat to Golconda, I Have made several journeys to Golcondan, and have taken several Roads; sometimes by Sea embarking from Ormus for Malispata; sometimes setting out from Agra, but most often from Surat, which is the chiefest landing-place of Indolstan. But in this Chapter I will only speak of the common Road from Surat to Golconda; wherein I comprehend that of Agra; which Road comes in at Dultabat, as I shall afterwards relate, making mention only of two journeys which I made in 1645, and 1652, for fear of tiring the Reader. I departed from Surat in the year 1645, upon the nineteenth of January, and came to lie at Cambari, costs 3 From Cambari to Barnoli, costs 9 From Barnoli to Beara, costs 12 From Beara to Navapour, costs 16 This is the place where grows the best Rice in the World, that smells like Musk. From Navapour to Rinkula, costs 18 From Rinkula to Pipelnar, costs 8 From Pipelnar to Nimpour, costs 17 From Nimpour to Patane, costs 14 From Patane to Secoura, costs 14 From Secoura to Baquela, costs 10 From Baquela to Discon, costs 10 From Discon to Dultabat, costs 10 Dultabat is one of the best Fortresses in the Kingdoms of the Great Mogul, upon a Mountain every way steep; the only way to it being so narrow, that but one Horse, or one Camel can go at a time. This City is at the foot of the Mountain, very well walled. And this place of such importance, which the Moguls lost, when the Kings of Golconda and Visapour revolted from them, was retaken in the Reign of Jehan-guire, by a subtle stratagem. Sultan Courom, who was afterwards called Cha-jehan, commanded in Decan the Army of the King his Father; and Ast-Kan, Father in Law to Cha-Est-Kan, who was one of the Generals, gave the Prince some sort of language which so highly offended him, that immediately sending for one of his Papouche's, or shoe's, he caused him to have six blows given him upon the Bonnet, which among the Indians is the highest indignity can be put upon a man, after which he is no more to appear in the Prince's presence. This was done by consent between the Prince and the General, to deceive the World, more especially any Spies which the King of Visapour might have in the Prince's Army. The report of Ast-Kan's disgrace was immediately spread abroad: and he himself flying for Sanctuary to the King of Visapour, who had not cunning enough to discern the imposture, was welcomed by the same King, and assured of his protection. Ast-Kan seeing himself so wellreceived, begged leave of the King, that he might retire with ten or twelve of his Women, and as many of his Servants, into the Fortress of Dultabat, which was granted. He entered the Town with eight or ten Camels, the two Cajava's or Litters on each side of the Camel being close shut, to keep the Women from being seen. But instead of Women, he had put into every Cajava two Soldiers, all bold and resolved men, as were also every one of the supposed Eunuches that led the Camels: so that he had no great difficulty to cut the Garrison in pieces, not being upon their guard; and to make himself Master of the place, which has been ever since under the Power of the Great Mogul. There are in the place a great number of excellent Pieces of Cannon, and the Cannoneers are generally English or Hollanders. True it is, that there is one little Mountain higher than the Fortress; but there is hardly any way to it, but through the same Fortress. There was a Dutch-Engineer, who after he had served the King fifteen or sixteen years, desired leave to be gone, and the Holland-Company itself, that had recommended him to the Service, did all they could to obtain it; but they could never procure it; because he was an excellent Cannonier, and very skilful in making Fireworks. The Raja Jessing, who is the most Potent of all the Idolatrous Princes of India, and who was most powerfully Instrumental to put the Crown upon Aurengzeb's Head, was sent as Generalissimo of the Army of this King, against the Raja Seva-gi; and passing by the Fortress of Dultabat, this Dutch-cannoneer went to wait upon him, all the Cannoneers of the Army being Franguis, as well as he. The Hollander laying hold of this opportunity, told the Raja, that if he would procure him a Licence to departed, he would show him a way to get up Cannon, and to mount them upon that Mountain which commanded the Fortress: for they had already walled it about, and put Soldiers upon it to keep it secure. The Raja pleased with his proposal, assured him that he would procure him the King's Licence, if he performed what he had proposed. Thereupon the Hollander undertaking and accomplishing his design, the Raja was as good as his word, and obtained of the King to dismiss the Dutch-cannoneer: who came to Surat when I was there, about the beginning of the year 1667; whence he embarked for Holland. From Dultabat to Aureng-abat, costs Aureng-abat was formerly but a Village, till Aurengzeb made it a City, though it be not walled. It grew to be thus enlarged, as well by reason of a Lake two leagues about, upon which the Village is built, as for the Memorys-sake of his first Wife, who is dead, by whom he had his Children. She is Interred toward the end of the Lake, upon the Westside, where the King has built a Mosque, with a stately Monument, and a fair Inn. The Mosque and the Monument were reared at a great expense, being covered with white-Marble, which is brought from Lahor by Wagon; being a journey of four Months. Going one time from Surat to Golconda, I met five days journey from Aureng-abat, more than three-hundered Wagons laden with this Marble, the least whereof was drawn by twelve Oxen. From Aureng-abat to Pipoli, costs 8 From Pipoli to Aubar, costs 12 From Aubar to Guisemner, costs 10 From Guisemner to Asti, costs 12 From Asti to Sarver, costs 16 From Sarver to Lesona, costs 16 From Lesona to Nadour, costs 12 At Nadour you must cross a River which runs into Ganges; and pay for every Wagon four Roupies; besides that, you must have a pass from the Governor. From Nadour to Patonta, costs 9 From Patonta to Kakeri, costs 10 From Kakeri to Sataepour, costs 10 From Satapour to Sitanaga, costs 12 From Sitanaga to Satanagar, costs 10 At Satanagar you begin to enter upon the Territories of the King of Golconda. From Satanagar to Melvari, costs 16 From Melvari to Girballi, costs 12 From Girballi to Golconda, costs 14 So that from Surat to Golconda there are, costs 324 All this I travelled in twenty-seven days. I made five journeys more in my Travels in the year 1653. And I also took another Road from Piplenar, where I arrived the eleventh of March, setting out from Surat, the sixth. The twelfth, to Birgam. The thirteenth, to Omberat. The fourteenth, to Enneque-Tenque, a strong Fortress, that bears the name of two Indian Princesses. It stands upon a Mountain steep every way; there being but one ascent to it upon the East-side. Within the enclosed compass of the Walls there is a large Pond, and Ground enough to sow for the maintenance of five or six-hundered men. But the King keeps no Garrison therein, so that it falls to ruin. The fifteenth, to Geroul. The sixteenth, to Lazour, where you are to cross a River; upon which, about a Cannons-shot from the fording place, are to be seen several large Pagods of the Country, whither great numbers of Pilgrims repair every day. The seventeenth, to Aureng-abad. The eighteenth, to Pipelgan, or Piply. The nineteenth, to Ember. The Twentieth, to Deugan. The one and twentieth, to Patris. The two and twentieth, to Bargan. The three and twentieth, to Palam. The four and twentieth, to Candear, a large Fortress, but upon one side commanded by an high Mountain. The five and twentieth, to Gargan. The six and twentieth, to Nagooni. The seven and twentieth, to Indove. The eight and twentieth, to Indelvai. The nine and twentieth, to Regivali. Between these two last places there is a little River which separates the Territories of the Great Mogul, from the Dominions of the King of Golconda. The thirtieth, to Masapkipet. The one and thirtietieth, to Mirel-mola-kipet. To go from Agra to Golconda, you must go to Brampour, according to the Road already described from Brampour to Dultabat, which is five or six days journeys off; and from Dultabat to those other places before set down. You may also take another Road to go from Surat to Golconda; that is to say, through Goa and Visapour; as I shall inform you in the particular relation of my journey to Goa. I come now to what is most worthy observation in the Kingdom of Golconda: And to relate what happened in the last Wars the King maintained against his Neighbours, during the time that I have known the Indies. CHAP. X. Of the Kingdom of Golconda, and the Wars which it has maintained for some few years last passed. THE whole Kingdom of Golconda, take it in general, is a good Country, abounding in Corn, Rice, cattle, Sheep, Poultry, and other necessaries for human life. In regard there are great store of Lakes in it, there is also great store of Fish. Above all the rest, there is a sort of Smelled, that has but one bone in the middle, which is most delicious food. Nature has contributed more than Art, toward the making these Lakes, whereof the Country is full; which are generally in places somewhat raised, so that you need do no more than make a little Dam upon the plain-side to keep in the water. These Dams or Banks are sometimes half a league long: and after the rainy seasons are over, they open the Sluices from time to time to let out the water into the adjacent Fields; where it is received by divers little Channels to water particular grounds. Bagnagar is the name of the Metropolis of this Kingdom; but vulgarly it is called Golconda, from the name of a Fortress, not above two leagues distant from it, where the King keeps his Court. This Fortress is about two leagues in circuit, and by consequence requires a numerous Guard. It is as it were a Town where the King keeps his Treasure: having left Bagnagar, ever since it was sacked by the Army, which Aurengzeb brought against it. Bagnagar is then the City, which they vulgarly call Golconda; and it was founded by the Great Grandfather of the present King; upon the importunity of one of his Wives, whom he passionately loved, whose name was Nagar. Before that, it was only a place of Pleasure, where the King had very fair Gardens, till at length his Wife continually representing to him the delicacies of the situation for the building a City and a Palace, by reason of the River; he laid the foundations, and ordered that it should bear the name of his Wife, calling it Bagnagar, that is to say, the Garden of Nagar. This City lies in seventeen degrees of Elevation, wanting two minutes. The Country round about is a flat Country, only near the City are several Rocks, as you see about Fontain-Bleau. A great River washes the Walls of the City upon the South-west-side, which, near to Maslipatan, falls into the Gulf of Bengala. At Bagnagar you cross this River over a Bridge no less beautiful than Pont-Neus at Paris. The City is little less than Orleans, well-built, and full of windows. There are many fair large Streets, but not being well-paved: they are dusty, as are all the Cities of Persia and India, which is very offensive in the Summer. Before you come to the Bridge, you must pass through a large Suburb, called Erengabad, about a league in length; where live all the Merchants, the Brokers, Handicraft-Trades, and in general, all the meaner sort of people; the City being inhabited only by persons of Quality, Officers of the King's House, Ministers of Justice, and Officers of the Army. From ten or eleven in the forenoon, till four or five in the evening, the Merchants, Brokers and Workmen come into the City to trade with the Foreign Merchants; after which time they return to their own Houses. In the Suburb are two or three fair Mosques, which serve for Inns for the Foreigners, besides several Pagods in the Neighbouring-parts. Through the same Suburb lies the way to the Fortress of Golconda. So soon as you are over the Bridge, you enter into a large Street, that leads you to the King's Palace. On the right-hand are the Houses of some Lords of the Court; and four or five Inns two Stories-high: wherein there are fair Halls, and large Chambers to let in the fresh Air. At the end of this Street there is a large Piazza; upon which stands one of the sides of the Palace; in the middle whereof there is a Balcone, wherein the King comes to sit, when he pleases to give Audience to the People. The great Gate of the Palace stands not upon this Piazza, but upon another very near adjoining; and you enter first into a large Court surrounded with Porticoes, under which lies the King's Guards. Out of this Court you pass into another, built after the same form, encompassed with several fair Apartments, the Roofs whereof are terraced. Upon which, as upon those where the Elephants are kept, there are very fair Gardens, wherein there grow Trees of that bigness, that it is a thing of great wonder, how those Arches should bear so vast a burden. About fifty years since, they began to build a magnificent Pagod in the City; which would have been the fairest in all India, had it been finished. The Stones are to be admired for their bigness: And that wherein the Nich is made, which is on that side where they say their Prayers, is an entire Rock, of such a prodigious bulk, that it was five years before five or six-hundered men, continually employed, could hue it out of its place. They were forced also to roll it along upon an Engine with wheels, upon which they brought it to the Pagod; and several affirmed to me, that there were fourteen-hundered Oxen to drawit. I will tell you hereafter the reason it remains imperfect: For had it been finished, in all reason it had excelled all the boldest Structures of Asia. On the other side of the City, as you go to Maslipatan, there are two great Lakes, being each about a league in compass, wherein there ride several Pinks richly adorned for the King's Pleasure; and upon the Banks are several fair Houses that belong to the Principal Lords of the Court. Upon three sides of the City stands a very fair Mosque, wherein are the Tombs of the Kings of Golconda: and about four in the afternoon there is a Dole of Bread and Pilau to all the Poor that come. If you would see any thing that is rare, you must go to view these Tombs upon a Festival-day. For then from morning till night they are hung with rich Tapestry. As for the Government and Policy which is observed in this City: In the first place, when a Stranger comes to the Gates, they search him exactly, to see if he have any Salt or Tobacco about him; for those Commodities bring the King his greatest Revenue. Sometimes a Stranger shall wait a day or two, before he shall have leave to enter. For a Soldier first gives notice to the Officer that commands the Guard, and then he sends to the Deroga, to know what he shall do. Now, because it many times happens that the Deroga is busy, or gone to take a walk out of the City, or else for that sometimes the Soldier himself pretends he cannot find the Deroga, only to create himself more errands, to get the more Money; a Stranger is forced to endure all this delay, sometimes, as I have said before, for a day or two. When the King sits to do Justice, I observe that he comes into the Balcone that looks into the Piazza, and all that have business stand below, just against the place where the King sits. Between the People and the Walls of the Palace are fixed in the ground three rows of Poles, about the length of an Half-Pike, to the ends whereof they tie certain ropes across one upon another. Nor is any person whatsoever permitted to pass beyond those bounds, unless he be called. This Bar, which is never set up, but when the King sits in Judgement, runs along the whole breadth of the Piazza; and just against the Balcone there is a Bar to open, to let in those that are called. Then two men, that each of them hold a Cord by the end, extended all the breadth of the passage, have nothing to do but to let fall the Cord, for any person that is called to step over it. A Secretary of State sits below under the Balcone, to receive all Petitions; and when he has five or six together, he puts them in a Bag, and then an Eunuch, who stands in the Balcone near the King, lets down a string, to which the Bag being tied, he draws it up, and presents it to his Majesty. Every Monday the chiefest of the Nobility mount the Guard, every one in their turn, and are never relieved till at the eight days end. There are some of these Lords that have five or six thousand men under their command; and they lie encamped in their Tents round about the City. When they mount the Guard, every one goes from his own Habitation to the Rendezvouz; but when they are relieved, they march in good order over the Bridge, thence through the long Street into the Piazza, where they draw up before the Balcone. In the first place, march ten or twelve Elephants, more or less, according to the quality of the Captain of the Guard. There are some of these Elephants that carry Cages, which in some sort resemble the Body of a little Coach; there are others that have but one man to guide them, and another in the Cage who carries a Banner. After the Elephants, follow the Camels by two and two, sometimes to the number of thirty or forty. Every Camel carries a kind of Packsaddle, upon which is fastened a little Culverin, which a certain Engineer, clad in a skin from head to foot, and sitting upon the Crupper of the Camel, with a lighted Match in his hand; dextrously manages from one side to another before the Balcone, where the King sits. After them come the Coaches, attended by the Domestic Servants of the Commander: Next to them follow the lead-Horses, and then the Lord appears, to whom all this Equipage belongs, attended by ten or twelve Courtesans, that stay for him at the end of the Bridge, and skip and dance before him to the Piazza. Behind him the Cavalry and Infantry march in good order: Which being a show, wherein there was much of delight and state, all the while I stayed at Bagnabar, which was about four Months, I had the divertisement to see them out of my Lodging in the great Street every week as they marched by. The Soldiers wear no other Clothes than only three or four els of Calicut, with which they cover half their Bodies behind and before. They wear their hair very long, and tie it up in a knot upon the top of the crown, like the women, who have no other Headgear than only a piece of Linen with three corners, one that comes to the middle of the head, and the other two, which they tie under their chins. The Soldiers do not wear Hangers or Scimitars like the Persians; but broad Swords like the Swissers, as well for a thrust, as a blow, which they hang in a Girdle. The Barrels of their Muskets are stronger than ours, and much neater; for their Iron is better, and not so subject to break. Their Cavalry carry Bows and Arrows, a Buckler and a Battle-ax, an Headpiece and a Jacket of Mail, that hangs down from the Headpiece over their Shoulders. There are so great a number of common Women as well in the City as in the Suburbs, and in the Fortress, which is like another City, that there are generally above twenty thousand set down in the Deroga's Book; without which licence, it is not lawful for any Woman to profess the Trade. They pay no tribute to the King; only they are obliged to come, a certain number of them, with their Governess, and their Music every Friday, and present themselves before the Balcone. If the King be there, they dance before him: if he intent not to come, an Eunuch comes into the Balcone, and makes them a sign to retire. In the cool of the evening they stand at the doors of their Houses, which are for the most part little Huts; and when night comes, they set up a Candle or a lighted Lamp for a Signal: Then it is also that they open all the Shops where they sell Tari; which is a certain drink made of the juice of a Tree, and is as sweet as our new Wines. They fetch it some five or six leagues off, upon Horses, that carry two earthen-Bottles of each side, and troth at a great rate; of which there come every day to the City above five or six-hundered. The King has a considerable Revenue by the Impost which he lays upon this Tari. And for that reason he permits so many common Women, in regard it is for their sake that so much Tari is consumed; those that sell it, for that cause, keeping their Shops by those Houses. These sort of Women are so nimble and active, that when the present King went to see Maslipatan, nine of them undertook to represent the figure of an Elephant; four making the four feet, four the body, and one the trunk; upon which the King, sitting in a kind of Throne, made his entry into the City. All the Men and Women of Golconda are well proportioned, and of comely statures; and fair enough in their countenances; only the Countrypeople are a little more swart. The present King of Golconda bears the Name of Abdoul-Coutou-Sha; and I will tell the Reader in a few words, from whence he drew his Original. In the Reign of Axbar King of India, the Father of Jehan-Guir, the Territories of the Great Moguls did not extend farther Southward than Narbider; to that the River which runs by it, and which coming from the South, empties itself into Ganges, separated their Dominions from the Territories of the Raja of Narsingue, that stretched as far as Cape-Comorin, the other rajas being only his Subjects, and depending upon him. This Raja and his Successors have been always at Wars with them that succeeded to Tamerlane or Temurleng in India; and their Power was so great, that the last Raja, who was at War with Akbar, brought into the Field four Armies under as many Generals. The most considerable of his Armies lay in those Provinces, which at this day are called the Kingdom of Golconda; the second was quartered in the Provinces of Visapour, the third in the Province of Dultabat, and the fourth in the Territories of Brampour. The Raja of Narsingue dying without Children, the four Generals divided among themselves the Countries which they possessed with their Army, and took upon them the title of Kings, the one of Golconda, the other of Visapour, the other of Brampour, and the fourth of Dultabat. Though the Raja were an Idolater, nevertheless his four Generals were Mahumetans; and he of Golconda was of the Sect of Haly, descended from an Ancient Family of the Turcomans, which inhabit the Country of Hamadan in Persia. This General, as I have said, was more considerable than any of the rest; and some few days after the death of the Raja, they won a famous Victory from the Mogul; so that he could not hinder them from assuming their several Sovereignties. But after that, Jehan-Guir, the Son of Akbar, conquered again the Kingdom of Brampour, Cha-jehan the Son of Jehan-Guir recovered the Kingdom of Dultabat, and Aurengzeb the Son of Cha-jehan recovered some part of the Kingdom of Visapour. As for the King of Golconda, neither Cha-jehan, nor Aurengzeb disturbed him, but let him rest in peace, upon condition that he should pay to the Mogul an annual tribute of 200000 Pagods. At present the greatest Raja on this side Ganges is the Raja of Velou, whose Territories extend to Cape-Comorin, and who succeeded to some part of the Territories of the Raja of Narsingue: But in regard there is no Trade in his Country, and by consequence no concourse of strangers, there is little notice taken of him. The present King of Golconda has no Sons, but three Daughters, who are all married. The Eldest Espoused one of the Kinsmen of the Grand Check of Mecca. Nor must we forget some passages that fell out before this Marriage. The Check coming to Golconda in the habit of a Faquir,, for some Months lodged without the Gate of the Palace, disdaining to give any answer to several Courtiers, that demanded what his business was. At length the thing being made known to the King, he sent his chief Physician, who spoke good Arabic, to know of the Check what he had to request, and the reason of his coming. The Physician, and some other Lords of the Court that discoursed him also, finding him to be a person of great Wit and Learning, brought him to the King, who was very well satisfied with his aspect and his presence. But at length the Check declaring to him, that he came to Espouse the Princess; that proposal very much surprised the Prince, and was looked upon by the greatest part of the Court, as made by a person not well in his wits. At first the King only laughed at him. But when he found him obstinately persevering in his demand, insomuch that he threatened the Country with some strange Calamity, if the Princess were not given to him in Marriage, he was committed to Prison, where he lay a long time. At length the King thinking it more to the purpose to send him back into his own Country, caused him to be shipped away at Mastipatan, in a Vessel that carried Goods and Pilgrims to Mocca, whence they travel by land to Mecca. About two years after the same Check returned again to Golconda, and ordered his affairs so well, that he Espoused the Princess, and won an high reputation in the Kingdom, which he governs at this day, and is very Potent. He it was that kept the King from surrendering the Fortress of Golconda, whither he was retired, when Aurengzeb and his Son took Bagnabar, as I shall tell you by and by, threatening to kill him, if he would not resolve to hold it out, and not deliver the keys to the enemy. This bold action wss the reason which made the King love him ever afterwards; and that he takes his counsel in all weigty affairs, not as he is the King's Son-in-Law, but as he is a great Minister of State, and the chiefest person, next the King, in all the Court. He it was that has put a stop to the finishing the great Pagod in Bagnagar, having threatened the whole Kingdom with some great Calamity, if they went forward with the work. This Prince is a passionate Lover of all those that profess the Mathematics, and understands them as well. For which reason, though he be a Mahometan, he is a great Favourer of all the Christians, who are versed in that Science, as he has particularly testified to Father Ephrahim, a Capuchin, passing through Golconda for Pegu, whither he was sent by his Superiors. He did all he could to oblige him to stay in the Country, and offered to build him a House and a Church at his own expenses; telling him, he should neither want employment, nor Hearers, in regard there were several Portuguese Christians, and several Armenians that came thither to trade. But Father Ephraim having a particular Order to go to Pegu, could not accept of his Offer; yet when he went to take his leave of the Check, he presented him with a Calaat, the most noble that was in his Wardrobe; being the whole habit; the Cap, the Cabay or large Vest, the Arcalou or short Cassock, two pair of Drawers, two Shirts, and two Scarves, which they wear about their necks, and over their heads to keep off the heat of the Sun. The Friar was surprised at the present, and gave the Check to understand, that it was not proper for him to wear it: however the Check would force him to take it, telling him he might accommodate some of his Friends with it. Two months after Father Ephraim bestowed the same Present upon me, being at Surat; for which I returned him thanks. The Check seeing he could not detain the Father, and unwilling he should go a foot from Golconda to Mastipatan, obliged him to take an Ox, with two Men to lead it; and because he could not persuade him to take also thirty Pagods, which he presented the Father withal, he commanded the two men, when they came to Mastipatan, to leave the Ox and the thirty Pagods with him, which they did very punctually; for otherwise at their return to Golconda, they had forfeited their lives. I will finish the History of Father Ephraim, when I come to the description of Goa, which is the principal place that the Portugals have in the Indies. The second Daughter of the King of Golconda was married to Sultan Mahumad, the eldest Son of Aurengzeb; the occasion whereof was this: Mirgimola, Generalissimo of the King of Golconda's Army, and who had been very serviceable to his Master, to settle the Crown upon his head, according to the custom, left with the King as a mark of his fidelity, both his Wife and Children in Hostage; for he was sent to reduce certain rajas in Bengala, that were in Rebellion. He had several Daughters, but only one Son, who had a great train, and made a great noise at Court. The reputation and riches which Mirgimola had gained, raised him up several Enemies, who endeavoured in his absence to ruin him, and to put him out of the King's favour. They pretended that the great power of Mirgimola was very much to be suspected; that all his designs tended to dethrone him, and to settle the Kingdom of Golconda upon his own Son; that it behoved him not to stay till the remedy were past cure, but to rid himself of an Enemy, so much the more to be feared, the closer he kept his intentions; and that the shortest and best way was to poison him. The King being easily persuaded, gave them leave and authority to act as they pleased for his security; but having missed of their design for three or four times together, Mirgimola's Son began to smell the plot; and immediately gave advice thereof to his Father. It is not known what instructions he received from his Father; but so soon as he had his answer, he went to the King, and spoke boldly to him, taxing him with the services which his Father had done him, and that without his assistance he had never come to the Crown. The young Lord, naturally of a fiery disposition, kept on this discourse, so displeasing to the King, till at length his Majesty fling away; and the Lords that were present, fell upon the young man, and basely misused him. At the same time also he was arrested and committed to prison, together with his Mother and Sisters. Which action, as it made a great noise at Court, coming to Mirgimola's ears, so incensed him, that having an Army under his command, and being beloved by the Soldiers, he resolved to make use of the advantages he had, to revenge himself for the injury done him. He was then not far from Bengala, being sent, as I said before, to reduce certain rajas to obedience, whose Territories lie upon the Ganges; and Sultan-Sujah, Cha-jehan's second Son, being then Governor of Bengala, the General thought it his best way to address himself to him; as being the next Prince, with whom he might join his Forces against the King of Golconda, whom he looked upon now no more as his Master, but as one of his most inveterate Enemies. Thereupon he wrote to the Prince to this effect: That if he would join with him, he would give him an opportunity to possess himself of the whole Kingdom of Golconda; and that he should not neglect so fair an opportunity to enlarge the Dominions of the Great Mogul, the succession whereof might as well concern him, as any of the rest of his Brothers. But the Answer which Sultan-Sujah sent him, was contrary to his expectation; who told him, that he could not tell how to trust a person, who as he went about to betray his King, might more easily be drawn to betray a Foreign Prince, whom he had inveigled only for the sake of his Revenge; and that therefore he should not rely upon him. Upon Sultan-Sujah's refusal, Mirgimola wrote to Aurengzeb, who was then in his Government of Brampoure, who being not so nice as his Brother, accepted of the proposal that was made him. Thus while Mirgimola advanced with his Troops toward Bagnabar, Aurengzeb hasten's toward Decan, and both Armies being joined, they came to the Gates of Bagnabar before the King was in a posture to receive them. He had only time to retreat into his Fortress of Golconda, to which Aurengzeb, after he had rifled the City of Bagnabar, and plundered the Palace, laid a close Siege. The King seeing himself thus vigorously pressed, sent away to Mirgimola his Wife and Children very honourably. For there is virtue and generosity in the Indians, as well as in the Europeans; of which I will give you an illustrious Example in the person of the King of Golconda. Some days after the Enemy had besieged the Fortress, a Cannoneer espying Aurengzeb upon his Elephant, riding about to view the Fortifications of the Castle, told the King, being then upon the Bastion, that if he pleased he would fetch off Aurengzeb with a Canon-shot; and at the same time was about to give fire, but the King holding his hand, told him he perceived it well enough, but that it behoved Kings to be better Husbands of the Lives of Princes. The Cannoneer obeyed the King, and instead of shooting at Aurengzeb, he took off the Head of the General of his Army, who was a little before him; which put a stop to the Assault they were about to have given, the Army being in a confusion upon his death. Abdul-jaber-Beg, General of the King of Golconda's Army, lying not far from the Camp, with a flying Army of four thousand Horse, understanding the disorder of the Enemy by reason of the loss of their General, laid hold of so favourable an opportunity, gave them a desperate charge in that confusion, and putting them to the rout, pursued them till night, for four or five Leagues. Some few days before the General's death, the King of Golconda finding that his provisions failed him in the Fortress, was about to have delivered the Keys; but as I said before, Mirza-Mahomed, his Son-in-Law, snatched them out of his hand, and threatened to kill him, if he persevered in that resolution. Which was the reason, that the King who loved him not before, had ever after the greatest affection imaginable for him as long as he lived. Aurengzeb being thus constrained to raise his Siege, stayed some days to rally his Troops; and having received a recruit of fresh men, returned again to the Siege, with new resolutions. But Mirgimola, who had still some kindness for the King remaining in his breast, would not permit Aurengzeb to use the utmost of extremity, but by his wit and good management gained a suspension of Arms. Cha-jehan, the Father of Aurengzeb, had formerly had great kindnesses shown him by the King of Golconda, to whom he fled, after he had lost the Battle, together with his eldest Brother, which he fought against Jehanguir his Father, with whom he made War. The eldest Son was taken, and Jehanguir caused his eyes to be put out; but Cha-jehan being more wary, fled, and was entertained by the King of Golconda, with whom he entered into a particular and strict friendship; Cha-jehan making an Oath to his Benefactor, that he would never wage. War against him upon any occasion whatever. Mirgimola therefore knowing that it would be no difficult thing to bring two Kings, that were Friends, to an accommodation, wrought underhand with both, toward the conclusion of a Peace. And he so brought his business about, that the King of Golconda writ a Letter first to Cha-jehan, wherein he submissively requested him to be an Arbitrator between Aurengzeb and him, promising to submit wholly to him, and to sign such Articles as he should propose. By the same policy of Mirgimola, Cha-jehan was advised, in answer to the King of Golconda's Letter, to propose a Match between his second Daughter and Sultan Mahomed, the Son of Aurengzeb, upon condition that after the death of the King her Father, the Son-in-Law should inherit the Kingdom of Golconda. This proposition being accepted, the Peace was concluded, and the Nuptials celebrated with an extraordinary Magnificence. As for Mirgimola, he quitted the service of the King of Golconda, and went with Aurengzeb to Brampour. Soon after Cha-jehan made him his Prime Minister of State, and Generalissimo of his Armies; and he it was that so potently assisted Aurengzeb to get the Crown, by the defeat of Sultan-Sujah. For Mirgimola was a person of great wit, and no less understanding in Military than in State affairs. I had occasion to speak with him several times; and I have no less admired his justice, than his dispatch to all people that had to do with him; while he gave out several Orders, and signed several Dispatches at the same time, as if he had but one entire business in hand. The other Princess of Golconda was promised to Sultan Sejed, another Check of Mecca; and the Match went on so fairly, that the day was appointed for the celebration of the Nuptials; but Abdoul-Jaber-Beg, General of the Army, with six other Lords, went to the King to divert him from his intention; and they brought it so to pass, that the Match was broken off, and the Princess was given in Marriage to Mirza-Abdoul-Cofing, the King's Cousin; by whom she has two Sons, which have wholly annulled the Pretensions of Aurengzeb's Son; whose Father now keeps him in Prison, in the Fort of Gavaleor, for having taken his Uncle Sultan Sujahs part against him. The Princess had been given before to Mirza-Abdoul-Cofing, but for his debauchery, which rendered him little regarded by the King. But since his marriage he is very much reclaimed. Now the King of Golconda does not stand in so much fear of the Moguls; for in imitation of them, he keeps his Money in his own Country, and has already hoarded up a Treasury sufficient to maintain his Wars. Besides, he is altogether addicted to the Sect of Haly, so that he will not wear a Bonnet, like the other Mahometans, because they say Haly wore none; but another sort of attire for the head. Which is the reason that the Persians, that come into India to seek their fortune, apply themselves rather to the King of Golconda then to the Great Mogul. Such is the condition of the King of Visapour also, whom the Queen, Sister to the King of Golconda, takes care to educate in the Sect of Haly, which invites great numbers of Persians into her Service. CHAP. XI. The Road from Golconda to Maslipatan, al. Masalipatan. FRom Maslipatan they count it an hundred costs or leagues, taking the right way. But if you go by the Diamond-Mine, which in the Persian Language is called Colour, in the Indian, Gani; they reckon it an hundred and twelve leagues: and this is the Road which I generally took. From Golconda to Tenara, costs 4 Tenara is a sweet place, where there are four very fair Houses, to every one of which belongs a large Garden. One of the four standing upon the lefthand along the Highway, is much more beautiful than any of the other three. It is built of Freestone two stories high, wherein there are several fair Galleries, Halls, Parlours, and lodging-Chambers. Before the front of the House is a large foursquare Piazza, little inferior to the Place royal in Paris. Upon every one of the other three fronts there is a great Portal, on each side whereof there is a fair Platform raised from the earth above four or five-foot-high, and well-arched, where Travellers of Quality are lodged. On the top of each Portal there is a strong Baluster, and a little Chamber for the Ladies. When Persons of Quality care not to be in their Houses,, they set up Tents in their Gardens; and you must take notice that there is no dwelling for any person but only in the three Houses; for the fourth, which is the fairest, belongs only to the Queen. When she is not there however, any body may see it, and take a walk in the Garden, which is a very lovely place, and well-stored with water. The whole Piazza is encompassed with several Chambers for the lodging of poor Travellers; who every day toward the evening have an Alms bestowed upon them, of Rice, or Pulse, which they boil ready to their hands. But for the Idolaters that eat nothing which is provided by other hands, they give them flower to make Bread, and a little Butter. For when their Bread is baked like a broad thin Cake, they dip it in the melted-Butter. From Tenara to Jatenagar, costs 12 From Jatenagar to Patengi, costs 12 From Patengi to Pengeul, costs 14 From Pengeul to Nagelpar, costs 12 From Nagelpar to Lakabaron, costs 11 From Lakabaron to Colour or Gani, of which I shall speak in my discourse of the Mines, costs 11 The greatest part of the way from Lakabaron to Colour, especially when you come near to Colour, is very rocky; so that I was forced in some places to take my Coach off the Carriages, which was presently done. If you meet with any good Earth between those Rocks, there you shall find Cassia-Trees, that bear the best Cassia, and the most laxative in all India. Which I found by its working with my men that eat of it by the way. There runs a great River by the Town of Colour, which falls into the Gulf of Bengala near Mastipatan. From Colour or Gani, to Kah-Kaly, costs 12 From Kah-Kaly to Bezovar, costs 6 Near to Bezovar you must repass the River of Colour. From Bezovar to Vouchir, costs 4 From Vouchir to Nilimor, costs 4 About half the way between Vouchir and Nilimor, you must cross a great River upon a Float-boat of Timber, there being no other kind of Boat in that place. From Nilimor to Milmol, costs 6 From Milmol to Mastipatan, costs 4 Mastipatan is a great City, the Houses whereof are only of Wood, built at a distance one from another. The place itself, which stands by the Sea, is famous for nothing but the Road for Ships which belongs to it, which is the best in the Gulf of Bengala; and from hence they set Sail for Pegu, for Siam, for Aracan, for Bengala, for Cochinchine, for Mecca, and for Ormus, as also for the Islands of Madagascar, Sumatra and the Manille's. You must take notice, that from Golconda to Mastipatan, there is no travelling by Wagons, by reason of the high Mountains, Lakes and Rivers that make the Road very straight and impassable. 'Tis a very difficult thing to carry a little Coach thither; for I was forced to have my own taken off the Carriages, and so to have it lifted out of the bad way. The Road is every jot as bad between Golconda and Cape-Comorin; a Wagon being hardly so much as made mention of all the way; for that there is no other way to travel, or for the carriage of Goods, than with Horses and Oxen. But instead of Coaches, they have the convenience of Pallekie's, wherein you are carried with more speed and more ease than in any part of India. CHAP. XII. The Road from Surat to Goa, and from Goa to Golconda through Visapour. YOu may go from Surat to Goa, partly by Land, and partly by Sea. But the Road being very bad by Land, generally Travellers go by Sea, and hiring an Almadjer, which is a Bark with Oars, they go by the Shoar to Goa: though sometimes the Malavares or Indian Pirates are very much to be feared all along those Coasts, as I shall tell you in due place. The way from Surat to Goa, is not reckoned by Costs, but by Gossip, one of which makes four of our common Leagues. From Surat to Daman, god's 7 From Daman to Bassain, god's 10 From Bassain to Chaoul, god's 7 From Chaoul to Daboul, god's 12 From Daboul to Rejapour, god's 10 From Rejapour to Mingrela, god's 9 From Mingrela to Goa, goes 4 In all from Surat to Goa, goes 61 The great danger which you run along the Coast, is the hazard of falling into the hands of the Malvares, who are violent Mahumetans, and very cruel to the Christians. I saw a barefoot Carmelite-Friar who had been taken by those Pirates. This Friar, to get his ransom the sooner, they put to that kind of torture, that his right-arm was shorter by one half than his left, and so it was with one leg. The Captains do not give above six Crowns to every Soldier for the whole six months that they are usually out at Sea: Then the Soldiers may return home, and if their Captains will have them stay longer, they must allow'em more pay. They seldom venture out above 20 or 25 leagues at Sea, which is no great hazard of the Vessel. But sometimes the Portuguese's snap them, and then they either hang 'em up presently, or throw 'em overboard. These Malavares carry sometimes 200, sometimes 250 men, and they sail together in Squadrons of ten or fifteen Barks to attack a great Vessel, not caring a rush for the great Guns. They come board and board so suddenly, and cast such a quantity of Pots of Artificial Fire upon the deck, that if there be not speedy remedy applied, they will presently do a world of mischief. Generally our Seamen, knowing the custom of these Pirates, when they come within ken, presently shut up the Scuttles, and fill the deck with water, to hinder the Fire-Pots from doing execution. An English Captain, whose name was Mr. Clark, coming from Bantam to Surat, not far from Cochin, met a Squadron of these Malvares, consisting of 25 or 30 of these Barks. Who came board and board, and vigorously attacked him. The Captain seeing he could not withstand their first Fury, put fire to some Barrels of Powder, and blowing up the deck, blew a great number of the Pirates into the Sea. Nevertheless, the rest were nothing discouraged, but boarded the Ship a second time. The English Captain seeing there was no help, put his men into two Shallops, and staying behind in his Cabin, where the Pirates could not enter so suddenly, he set fire to a Train which he had laid, that reached to all the rest of the Powder, and at the same time leaping into the Sea, was taken up by his own men. In the mean time the Ship being all afire, the Pirates leapt into the Sea also. But for all this, the two Shallops, wherein there were about forty English, were taken by the rest of the Malvares, that were Freshmen; and I was then at breakfast with the English Precedent, Mr. Fremelin, when he received a Letter from Captain Clark, that he was a Slave to Samorin, who is the most considerable King all along the Pirates Coast. The Prince would not leave the English in the hands of those Scoundrels, knowing that they would have been in great danger of their lives, by reason that above twelve-hundered Women had lost their Husbands, in the two times that the Ship had been fired. However the King found a means to appease them, promising to each of them that had lost their Husbands two Piastres, every Piastre being four shillings a piece, which came to above two thousand four hundred Crowns, besides four thousand, which were to be paid for the Ransom of the Captain and the other Seamen, immediately the Precedent sent the Money, and I saw them at their return, some in health, others in violent Fevers. The Malavares are a People so superstitious, that they never touch any thing that is foul or soiled, with their Right Hands, but only with the Left, the Nails of which Fingers they let grow, and use instead of Combs, for they wear their Hair long like the Women, tying it about their Heads in wreaths, and binding it with a Linen cloth with three corners. Since I have mentioned Daman, I will tell you in a few words how that City was besieged by Aureng-Zeb the present Great Mogul. Some are of opinion that Elephants do great matters in War; which may be sometimes true, but not alwaws; for very often instead of doing mischief to the Enemy, they turn upon those that lead them, and rout their own party as Aureng-Zeb found by experience, at the Siege of this City. He was twenty days before Daman, and resolved at length to Storm it upon a Sunday, believing that the Christians were like the Jews and would not defend it upon that day. He that commanded the Place was an old Soldier, who had served in France, and had three Sons with him. In the Town were eight hundred Gentlemen, and other stout Soldiers, who came from all parts to signalise their valour at that Siege. For though the Mogul had in his Army above forty thousand men, he could not hinder relief from being put into Daman by Sea, in regard that he wanted Ships. The Sunday that the Prince intended to Storm, the Governor of Daman, as had been ordered at the Council of War, caused Mass to be said presently after Midnight, and then made a Sally with all his Cavalry and some part of his Infantry, who were to fall on upon that quarter which was guarded by two hundred Elephants. Among those Elephants they fling a great number of Fireworks, which so affrighted them in the dark of the Night, that knowing not whither they went, nor being to be ruled by their Governors, they turned upon the Besiegers with so much fury, that in less than two or three hours half the Army of Aureng-Zeb was cut in pieces, and in three days the Siege was raised; nor would the Prince after that, have any more to do with the Christians. I made two Voyages to Goa the one at the beginning of the year 1641. the second at the beginning of the year 1648. The first time I stayed but five days, and returned by Land to Surat. From Goa I went to Bicholly, which is upon the main Land, thence to Visapour, thence to Golconda, thence to Aureng-abat, and so to Surat. I could have gone to Surat without passing through Golconda, but my business led me that way. From Goa to Visapour; costs. 85 Which takes up generally eight days journey. From Visapour to Golconda, costs. 100 Which I travelled in nine days. From Golconda to Aureng-abat, the Stages are not so well ordered, being sometimes sixteen, sometime twenty five, sometimes twenty Leagues asunder. From Aureng-abat to Surat takes up sometimes twelve, sometimes fifteen, sometimes sixteen days journey. Visapour is a great scambling City, wherein there is nothing remarkable, neither as to the public Edifices, nor as to Trade. The King's Palace is a vast one but ill built; and the access to it is very dangerous, in regard there are abundance of Crocodiles that lie in the Water which encompass it. The King of Visapour has three good ports in his Dominions, Rejapour, Daboult, and Crapaten. The last is the best of all, where the Sea beats upon the foot of the Mountain, and you have fourteen or fifteen Fathom Water near the Land. Upon the top of the Mountain there is a Fort, with a Spring of Water in it. Crapaten is not above five days journey from Goa to the North. And Rabaque, where the King of Visapour sells his Pepper, is as far distant from it to the East. The King of Visapour and the King of Golconda have been formerly tributary to the Great Mogul: but now they are absolute of themselves. This Kingdom was for some time disquieted by the revolt of Nair-seva-gi, Captain of the King of Visapour's Guards; After which the young Seva-gi his Son conceived so deadly a hatred against the King, that he made himself the head of certain Banditi, and as he was both wise and liberal, he got together so many Horse and Foot, as made a complete Army; the Soldiers flocking to to him from all parts, for the reputation of his Liberality. And he was just about to have led them to action, when the King of Visapour happened to die without Children, so that with little or no trouble he got possession of one part of the Coast of Malavar; taking Rejapour, Rasigar, Crapaten, Daboul, and other places. They report that upon his demolishing the fortifications of Rasigar, he found vast Treasures, which helped him to pay his Soldiers, who were always well paid. Some years before the death of the King, the Queen perceiving no probability of having any Children, adopted a little Boy, upon whom she bestowed all her affections, and caused him to be brought up in the Doctrine of Haly's Sect, The King upon his Deathbed caused this Adopted Son to be Proclaimed King; but Seva-gi having a numerous Army continued the War, and much disturbed the Regency of the Queen. At length he made the first propositions for Peace; which was concluded upon conditions, that he should quietly enjoy the Territories; which he had subdued, that he should become Tributary to the King, and pay him the half of all his Revenue. The young King being thus fixed in his Throne, the Queen Regent went in Pilgrimage to Mecca; and I was at Ispahan, when she passed through the Town in her return home. When I made my second Voyage to Goa, I embarked in a Dutch Vessel called the Maestricht, which carried me to Mingrela, where I landed the eleventh day of January, 1648. Mingrela is a large Town, extended half a League in length upon the Sea, in the Territories of Visapour. It is one of the best Roads in all India, where the Hollanders take in fresh Provisions every time they sail to block up Goa, as also when they are bound upon Trade for many other parts of India. For at Mingrela there is both excellent Water, and excellent Rice. This Town is also very famous for Cardamons, which the Eastern people esteem the best of Spices, not being to be had in any other Country; which makes that sort of Commodity very scarce and very dear. There is also made great store of course Calecuts, that are spent in the Country; besides great quantities of course Matting, that serves to pack up goods. So that both in respect of Trade, as also for the furnishing their Ships with fresh Provisions, the Hollanders have a Factory in the Town. For, as I said before, not only all Vessels that come from Batavia, from Japon, from Bengala, Ceylan, and other places, and those that are bound for Surat, the Red Sea, Ormus, Balsara, etc. both going and coming, come to an Anchor in the Road of Mingrela, but also while the Hollanders are at Wars with the Portugals, and lie before the Bar of Goa, where they have usually eight or ten Sail, they send their small Barks to Mingrela for Provisions. For the Hollanders lie eight Months in a year before the mouth of the Port of Goa, so that there can nothing pass into Goa by Sea all that time. You must also take notice, that the Bar of Goa is also stopped up some part of the year by the Sands which the South and West-winds that precede the great Rains, cast up; so that there is not above a foot, or a foot and a half Water for very small Boats. But when the great Rains come, the Water swells and carrying away the Sands, opens a passage for the great Vessels. CHAP. XIII. Observations upon the present State of the City of Goa. GOA lies in 15 Degrees, 32 minutes of Latitude, in an Island six or seven leagues about, upon the River of Mandova, ten leagues from the mouth of the River. The Island abounds in Corn and Rice, and bears several sorts of Fruit, as Manga's, Anana's, Adam's- Figs, and Coco's. But most certainly a Pippin is far beyond all those fruits. All those that have seen Europe and Asia, agree with me, that the Port of Goa, the Port of Constantinople, and the Port of Toulou, are three of the fairest Ports of all our vast Continent. The City is very large, and the Walls are of good Stone. The Houses are for the most part very magnificently built, especially the Viet-Roy's Palace. There are in it a great number of Apartments, and in one part of the Rooms and Chambers, which are very large, hang several Pictures, wherein are severally painted by themselves, the Ships that come from Lisbon to Goa, with those that are bound from Goa to Lisbon, with the name of the Vessel, the Captain, and the number of Guns which the Ship carries. If the City were not so closely environed with Hills, it would doubtless be better inhabited, and the air would be much more wholesome. But these Mountains keep off the cool winds, which is the reason that the heats are very excessive. Beef and Pork is the ordinary diet of the Inhabitants of Goa. They have good store of Poultry, and some few Pigeons; but though Goa be very near the Sea, Fish is very scarce. They have abundance of all sorts of Sweetmeats, and feed upon them very much. Before the Hollanders had brought down the power of the Portugals in India, there was nothing to be seen at Goa, but Magnificence and Riches: but the Dutch having every where got their Trade out of their hands, they have lost their springs of Gold and Silver, and are fallen from their former splendour. In my first Voyage to Goa I met with people of fashion, that had above two-thousand Crowns Revenue; at my second Voyage the same persons came privately to me in the evening, to beg an Alms; yet abating nothing, for all that, of their inherent pride and haughtiness: Nay, their Women will come in Palleki's to the door, and stay while a Boy, that attends them, has brought you a Compliment from his Mistress. Then usually you send them what you please, or carry it yourself, if you have a curiosity to see their faces; which rarely can be done, because they cover themselves with a veil from head to foot. Moreover, if you go yourself to present them your Charity, they will give you a little note, containing a recommendation of some religious Person, who signifies what substantial persons they have been, and how they came to fall to decay. Sometimes, if the person be handsome, she is desired to walk in; and to take a Collation, which lasts most commonly till the next day. Hadnot the Portugals so many Fortresses to keep upon the Land; or had, not, out of their contempt of the Hollander they neglected their affairs, they could never have been reduced to so low a condition. The Portugueses have no sooner made the Cape of Good-Hope, but they are all Fidalgues or Gentlemen; and add the Title of Dom to the single name of Pedro or Jeronimo, which they received at their Baptism: From whence they are called the Fidalgues or Gentlemen of the Cape of Good-Hope. As they change their Names, they also change their Nature; for it may be truly said, that the Indian-Portugals are the most revengeful persons, and the most jealous of their Wives of any persons in the World. And when the least suspicion creeps into their noddles, they rid themselves of them either by Poison or Dagger. If they have an enemy, they never pardon him; but if he be a person of that courage that they dare not grapple with him, their Masters have attending upon them a sort of black Slaves, that if they command them to kill any one, the Slaves will do it with a blind obedience; which they do either with a Dagger, or a Pistol, or else by knocking the party on the head with a club, which they always carry, about the length of an Half-Pike. If it happen that they stay too long before they can meet with an opportunity ere they can dispatch their mischief; and that they cannot conveniently meet the person to be murdered, in the Fields or in the City, they are no such Saints, but they will kill him at the very Altar, while he is at his devotions; of which I saw two fatal precedents, the one at Goa, the other at Daman. At Daman three or four of these black Slaves perceiving some persons whom they were to murder, at Mass in the Church, discharged their Muskets at them through the windows, never considering what other mischief they might do to any other persons, against whom they had no quarrel or design. The same thing happened at Goa, where seven men were killed close by the Altar, and the Priest that said Mass was dangerously wounded at the same time. Nor do their Courts of Justice take any cognizance of these crimes, for generally the guilty persons are the chiefest of the Country. As for their Suits of Law, there is no end of them, for they are managed by the Canarins, who are Natives of the Country, whose business it is to follow the Law; the most subtle and crafty sort of people in the World. To return to the ancient Power of the Portugals in India, most certain it is, that if the Hollanders had never come among them, you should not have seen a bit of Iron in any Portugal Merchant's House; but all Gold or Silver; for they needed no more than to make three or four Voyages to Japan, the Philippin, or Molucca Islands, or to China to enrich themselves; gaining at their return above five or six for one upon rich Merchandizes. The very Soldiers as well as the Captains and Governors enriched themselves by Trade. There was not any person, unless it be the Governor, who was not a Trader; or if he does Trade, it is in another man's name, for he has Revenue enough without it. Formerly it was one of the fairest employments of the World to be Viceroy of Goa: and there are but few Monarches, that have Governments at their disposal, which are equal in value to some of those which depend upon this Viceroy. The chief Command is that of Mozambique for three years. In those three years the Governor gets above four or five-hunder'd-thousand Crowns, and sometimes more, if in all that time they receive no losses from the Cafres'. These Cafres' are people that bring Gold for the Commodities which they carry away; and if any one of them happen to die, going or coming, whatever you trusted them withal is lost without redemption. The Governor of Mozambique trades also with the Negroes that inhabit all along the Coast of Melinda; and they ordinarily pay for the goods they buy, either in Elephants Teeth, or Ambergreese. When I was last in Goa, the Governor of Mozambique, who returned to Goa after he had been three years in his Command, had by him only in Ambergreese, two hundred thousand Crowns, not reckoning his Gold, and his Elephants Teeth, which amounted to a far larger sum. The second Government was that of Malaca, by reason of the Custom which was there to be paid. For it is a Straight through which all Vessels that are bound from Goa, for Japon, China, Cochinchina, Java, Macassar, the Phillippin Islands, and many other places, must of necessity pass. They may sail another way by the Island of Sumatra, toward the West, and so through the Straight of Sonde, or else leave the Island of Java to the North; but when the Ships return to Goa, they must show a discharge from the Customhouse of Malaca, which obliges them to go that way. The third Government is that of Ormus, by reason of the great Trade which is there, and the Custom which all Ships are to pay that are bound in and out of the Persian Golf. The Governor of Ormus exacted great Tolls from those that went to the Island of Bakrens to fish for Pearls, for if they did not take a Licence from him, he would sink their Vessels. The Persians at present exact this Custom from the English, who have a small share in that Trade, as I have related in my Persian Voyages. But though they are severe enough to the Merchants, their Customs amount to nothing near so much as what the Portugueses made of it. The Hollanders are in the same condition at Malaca, not receiving hardly sufficient to pay their Garrison which they keep there. The fourth Government is that of Moscate, the revenue whereof was very great. For all Vessels that are bound from India, from the Persian Golf, from the Red Sea, and from the Coast of Melinda, must come under the Point of Muscate, where they generally take in fresh Water. If there be any Ships that would not come to an Anchor there, the Governor sent for his Custom, which was four in the hundred; and if they refused, the Governor had his Galleasses ready to sink them. The fifth Government was that of the Island of Ceyland, to which belonged all those places which the Portugals had, as well upon the Coast of Malavar, the Golf of Bengala, and other parts of India; the worst of which employments was worth ten thousand Crowns per ann. Besides these five great Governments, which were at the disposal of the Viceroy, he had abundance of other Offices in his Gift, as well in Goa, as in other parts of India. The very day that he makes hid Entry into Goa, the Captain of his Guards gets above four thousand Crowns. The three Offices of Engineer Major, Visitor of the Forts, and chief Master of the Ordinance, yielded every year twenty thousand Pardo's; every Pardo being worth twenty-seven Sous of our Money. The Portuguese were then all very rich; the Nobility by reason of their Governments and Commands, the Merchants by their Trade, till the English and Hollanders cut them short. When they had Ormus, they would not let any Merchant pass by Sea into India; so that they were forced to go by Land through Candahar. Then, when the Turkey, Persian, Arabian, Muscovite, Polonian, and other Merchants arrived at Bander-Abassy, they joined together, and deputed four of the most experienced persons among them, to view all the sorts of Commodities, and to understand their quality and price. After they have made their report, they agree upon their price, and fetch away their goods, which are distributed to every one proportionably according to the number of Merchants. It is also the custom of all Asia, that there is nothing sold, but a Broker has a hand in the Bargain. They make good the Money to those that have sold, and receive it from them that buy; and there are some sorts of Commodities upon which there is due to them for Brokage, sometimes one in in the Hundred, sometime one and a half, and two. At that time the Portugueses made great profit, without any loss. For the Viceroy took care to preserve them against the Pirates. Who assoon as the Rains are over, and that it was seasonable to put to Sea, always sent a sufficient convoy to guard the Merchants twenty-five or thirty Leagues to Sea, the Malvares not daring to stir above fifteen or twenty. The Captains of the Galiots, and the Soldiers drive a small Trade also in their Voyages, and in regard they pay no custom, they gain enough to maintain themselves handsomely all the time they lie in Garrison, which is during the Rains. There was also care taken for the advancement of the Soldiery; for every Soldier that came from Portugal, after nine years' service, had some Command either by Sea or Land bestowed upon him; and if he would not accept of it, they gave him leave to Trade as a Merchant. So that if there happened to be any person of understanding among them, he could not fail to raise his fortune, having all the credit he could desire. For there were people enough that being glad to let out their Money, would venture with him at Cent. per Cent. upon his return. If the Vessel be lost, they that lend their Money, lose either their Money or their goods; but if the Ship come safe home, of one they make three or four. The Natives of the Country, called Canarins, are not permitted to bear any Offices among the Portugueses, but only in reference to the Law, that is to say, either as Advocates, or Solicitors, or Scriveners; for they keep them very much under. If one of these Canarins or Blacks, happen to strike a White or European, there is no pardon for him, but he must have his hand cut off. As well the Spaniards as Portuguese, make use of them as Receivers, and to follow their business. And in the Manilia's, or Philippin Islands, there are some of these Blacks so rich, that many of them have offered twenty thousand Croisats to the Viceroy, for liberty to wear Hose and shoe's, which they are not permitted to wear. Some of these Blacks have thirty Slaves attending upon them, very richly habited; but only they go barefoot. And had the Portugals permitted them to set out Ships of their own, and to have chosen Captains and other Officers at their own pleasure, the Portugueses would not have made such large, at least not so easy Conquests in the Indies. These Blacks are very courageous and good Soldiers, and several of the Religious Orders have assured me, that they will learn more in six months in one of their Colleges, than the Portugal Children in a year, whatever Science you put them to; which is the reason that the Portugals keep them so low. The natural Inhabitants of the Country about Goa, are Idolaters, and worship several sorts of Idols, which they say are the Resemblance of several that have done good works, to whom they ought to give praise by adoring their Portraitures. There are many of these Idolaters who worship Apes. And therefore in the Island of Salsete, there was a Pagod, where the Idolaters kept in a Chest, like a Tomb, the Bones and Nails of an Ape, which they said had been mighty serviceable to their Ancestors, by bringing news and intelligence to them, when any hostile Princes prosecuted them; for which purpose they would sometimes swim through the very Sea itself. The Indians come from several parts in procession, and make Offerings to this Pagod. But the Clergy of Goa, especially the Inquisitors, caused the Tomb one day to be taken away, and brought it to Goa, where it remained a good while, by reason of the difference which it made between the ecclesiastics and the people. For the Idolaters offering a great sum of Money to have their Relics again, the people were willing to have restored them; saying, that the Money would do well upon any occasion of War, or else to relieve the poor. But the Clergy were of a contrary opinion, and maintained that such a piece of Idolatry was not to be endured upon any account whatsoever. At length the Archbishop and the Inquisitors, by their own Authority, took away the Tomb, and sending it in a Vessel twenty Leagues out to Sea, caused it to be thrown to the bottom of the Ocean. They thought to have burned it, but the Idolaters would have raked up the Ashes again, which would have been but a new food to their Superstition. There are in Goa abundance of Clergymen; for besides the Archbishop and his Clergy, there are Dominicans, Austin-friars-s, Franciscans, Barefoot Carmelites, Jesuits, and Capuchins, with two Religious Houses, whereof the Austin-friars-s are Directors or Governors. The Religious Carmelites, that came last, are the best seated; for though they are somewhat at a distance from the heart of the City, yet they have the advantage of a fine Air, and the most healthy situation in all Goa. It stands upon a rising ground, free to the refreshment of the Wind; and it is very well built, with two Galleries one over the other. The Austin-friars-s, who were the first that came to Goa, were indifferently well seated, at the foot of a little rising ground, their Church also standing upon a rising ground, with a fair Piazza before it; but when they had built their Habitation, the Jesuits desired them to sell that rising ground, which was then a void place, under pretence of making a Garden in it for the recreation of their Scholars. But after they had purchased it, they built a most stately College upon the same ground, which quite stops and chokes up the Austin-friars-s Covent, so that they have no Air at all. There happened several Contests about this business, but at length the Jesuits got the better. The Jesuits at Goa, are known by the name of Paulists; by reason that their great Church is dedicated to St. Paul. Nor do they wear Hats or Corner-Caps, as in Europe, but only a certain Bonnet, resembling the Skull of a Hat without the Brims; somewhat like the Bonnets which the Grand Signors Slaves wear; of which I have given you a description in my relation of the Seraglio. They have five Houses in Goa, the College of St. Paul, the Seminary, the Professors House, the Noviciate, and the Good Jesus. The paintings in this House are admirable pieces of Workmanship. In the year 1663. the College was burnt by an accident which happened in the night, so that it cost them near sixty thousand Crowns to rebuild it. The Hospital of Goa was formerly the most famous in all India. For in regard the Revenues thereof were very great, the sick persons were very carefully looked after. But since the change of the Governors, there is but very bad accommodation; and several of the Europeans that have been put in, have never come forth again, but in their Coffins. However, they have lately found out a way to save some by frequent Blood-letting. They let Blood sometimes, as occasion requires, thirty or forty times, even as often as any ill-blood comes forth; as they did by me one time that I was at Surat. Butter and flesh is very dangerous to them that are sick, and many times costs them their lives. Formerly they made several sorts of well-tasted diet for those that recovered: Now they serve the Patient only with young Beef-broth, and a dish of Rice. Usually the poorer sort that recover their health, complain of drought, and call for water. But they that look after them, being only Blacks, or Mongrels, a sort of covetous and pitiless people, will not give them a drop, unless they put Money in their hands; and to colour their wickedness, they give it them by stealth, pretending what they do to be against the physician's order. As for Sweetmeats and Preserves, there is no want of them; but they are not a diet which contributes overmuch to the restoring of decayed strength, especially in those hot Countries, where the body requires rather cooling and refreshing nourishment. I have forgot one thing in reference to their more frequent bloodletting than among us Europeans. Which is, that to bring their colour again, and to restore them to perfect health, they order the Patient to drink for twelve days together three glasses of Cow's Urine; one in the morning, another at noon, and another at night. But in regard it is a very nauseous sort of drink, the Patient swallows as little as he can, how desirous soever he may be of his health. They learned this remedy from the Idolaters of the Country; and whether the Patient will take it or no, they never let him stir out of the Hospital, till the twelve days are expired wherein he ought to drink it. CHAP. XIV. What the Author did, during his stay at Goa, the last time he went thither in the year 1648. TWO days before I departed from Mingrela for Goa, I wrote to Monsieur St. Amant, who was Engineer, to send me a Man of War, for fear of the Malvares which are upon the Coast, which he immediately did. I parted from Mingrela the 20 th' of January 1648, and arrived at Goa the 25 th'. And in regard it was late, I stayed till the next morning before I went to visit the Viceroy, Don Philip de Mascaregnas, who had formerly been Governor of Ceylan. He made me very welcome, and during the two months that I tarried at Goa, he sent to me a Gentleman five or six times, who brought me still to the Powder-House, which was without the City, where he often used to be. For he took great delight in levelling Guns, wherein he asked my advice, esteeming very much a Pistol very curiously and richly inlaid, which I presented him at my arrival. This Pistol the French-Consul at Aleppo gave me, the fellow of it being unhappily lost: for else the Bair had been presented by the French-Nation to the Bassa, who might then have boasted himself the Master of the fairest and best-made pair of Pistols in all Asia. The Viceroy admits no person whatever, no not his Children to sit at his Table. But there is a little partition in the Dining-room, where there is a Cloth laid for the Principal Officers, as is usual in the Courts of the German-Princes. The next day I went to wait upon the Archbishop, and the next day after I designed to have visited the Inquisition; but I understood by one of his Gentlemen that he was busy, writing into Portugal; there being two Ships ready to weigh Anchon, that only stayed for his dispatches. After the Ships were set sail, he sent the same Gentleman to tell me that he expected me at the Inquisition-House, about two or three in the afternoon. I failed not to go thither at the time prefixed When I came, a Page brought me into a large Hall, where after I had walked a quarter of an hour, an Officer came and carried me into the Chamber where the Inquisitor was. After I had passed through two Galleries, and some Chambers. I entered into a little Chamber where the Inquisitor sat at the end of a great Table like a Billiard-Table, which, as well: as the Chairs and Stools in the Chamber, was covered with green Cloth, such as is carried out of England. He told me I was welcome, and after a Compliment or two, he asked me what Religion I was of? I answered him, of the Protestant Religion. He asked me then, if my Father and Mother were of the same Religion; and after I had satisfied him that they were so; He told me again I was welcome, calling out at the same time for some other persons to enter. Thereupon, the Hang being held up, there came in ten or twelve persons out of another room hard-by. The first of the Train were two Austin-Friars, followed by two Dominicans, two barefoot-Carmelites, and some other of the Clergy; whom the Inquisitor told who I was, and assured them I had brought no prohibited Books; for indeed, knowing their orders, I had left my Bible at Mingrela. We discoursed about two hours of several things, but particularly of my Travels; the whole Company testifying their desire to hear me make some repetitions. Three days after the Inquisitor sent for me to dine with him at a fair House, about half a league from the City, which belongs to the Barefoot-Carmelites. It is one of the loveliest Structures in all the Indies; and I will tell you in short how the Carmelites came by it. There was a Gentleman in Goa, whose Father and Grandfather had got great Estates by Merchandizing; and he it was that built this House, which might well have passed for a most noble Palace. He had no mind to Marry, but being altogether addicted to his devotions, he very much frequented the Austin-Friars, to whom he showed himself so affectionate, that he made his Will, wherein he gave them all his Estate, provided they would bury him on the rightside of the High-Altar, where he intended a sumptuous Monument. Now according to the common report, this Gentleman was a Leper, which some jealous persons endeavoured to make the World believe, seeing he had given away all his Estate to the Austin-Friars. Thereupon they told him that the ground on the right-hand of the High-Altar was a place only fit for a Viceroy; and that a leprous person was not to be laid there: which was the opinion of the generality of the people, and of a good part of the Austin-Friars themselves. Thereupon some of the Fathers of the Covent coming to speak with the Gentleman, on purpose to persuade him to choose some other place in the Church, he was so offended at the proposal, that he never went more to the Austin-Friars, but always went to perform his devotions among the Carmelites, who received him with open arms, and accepted the conditions which the other had refused. Nor did he live long after he had interested himself with that Order; so that the Carmelites having magnificently buried him, enjoyed all his Estate, with this same House, where we were splendidly entertained with Music all the time of Dinner. I stayed at Goa from the twenty-first of January till the eleventh of March, departing thence that very day in the evening, after I had taken leave of the Viceroy. I begged leave also of the Viceroy for a French-Gentleman, whose name was Belloy, to go along with me: which was granted me; but through the imprudence of that Gentleman, who did not tell me the reason of his coming to Goa, he had like to have been taken from me again, and it was an even-lay, that we had not been both carried to the Inquisition. This Gentleman had left the place of his Nativity to travel over Holland, where having run himself in debt, and finding no person that would lend him any Money, he resolved to go for India. Thereupon he listed himself as a private Soldier upon the account of the Holland-Company; and came to Batavia at the same time that the Hollanders made War against the Portuguezes in Ceylan. Being arrived, they sent him away among the recruits which were sent into that Island; and the Holland-General seeing such a reinforcement of stout men commanded by a French-Captain, whose name was St. Amant, a person of great courage and experience; he resolved to besiege Negombe, a considerable Fort in the Island of Ceylan. They made two assaults, wherein the Frenchmen behaved themselves valiantly, especially St. Amant, and John de Rose, who were both wounded. The General of the Dutch, seeing them to be two such men of courage, made a promise that if Negombe were taken, one of them two should be Governor. The place was taken, and the General kept his word with St. Amant: but the News being carried to Batavia, a young Gentleman of kin to the General, and but newly arrived out of Holland, obtained to be Governor of Negombe, to the prejudice of St. Amant, and came with an order from the Council at Batavia to displace him. St. Amant incensed at such ill-usage, inveigles to his Party a matter of fifteen or twenty, most part French-soldiers, among whom were Monsieur Belloy, Marests, and John de Rose, and revolts to the Portuguezes. The Portugals encouraged by the reinforcement of such a stout, though small number of men, stormed Negombe again, and took it at the second assault. At that time was Don Philip de Mascaregnas Governor of Ceylan, and all the places belonging to it, under the jurisdiction of the Portugals. He lived also at the City of Colombo; and than it was, that having received Letters from Goa that the Viceroy was dead, and that the Council and all the Nobility desired him to come and succeed in his place, he resolved to see St. Amant and his Companions before his departure, to the end he might bestow upon them some proper reward. So soon as he saw them, he was resolved to take them along with him to Goa. Whether it were that he thought he might have better opportunities to advance them there; or that he thought it convenient to have stout men about him, by reason of the Malavares who lay in wait for him with forty Vessels, whereas he had but twentytwo. But they were no sooner come to make Cape-Comorin, when the winds risen, and such a tempest followed, that the Vessels were dispersed, and many of them unfortunately cast away. They that were in Don Philips' Vessel did all they could to get to the shore, but seeing they could not, and that the Ship was ready to split, St. Amant and his six other Companions threw themselves into the Sea with cords and pieces of planks, and so bestirred themselves, that they made a shift not only to save themselves, but Don Philip also. Hereupon Don Philip coming to Goa, after he had made his entrance, gave to St. Amant the Command of Grand Master of the Artillery, and Superintendent-General over all the Forts which the Portuguezes had in India. He married him also to a young Virgin, with whom he had twenty-thousand Crowns, whose Father was an Englishman, who had quitted the Company, and married a Natural Daughter of one of the Viceroy's of Goa. As for John de Rose, he desired leave of the Viceroy to return to Colombo, where, by his favour, he married a young Widow, half Native, half Portugueze, by whom he had a fair fortune. Marests the Viceroy made Captain of his Guards, the most considerable Command in all his Court, being obliged to Marests for his life, who was the person that bore him upon his shoulders to save him from drowning. Du Belloy desired leave that he might go to Macao, which was granted him. For he understood that the greatest part of the Portugal-Gentry retired to that place, after they had got Estates by Merchandizing; that they were very courteous to strangers, and withal extremely addicted to play, which was Du Belloy's chief delight. He lived two years at Macao, very much to his content; for when he wanted Money, the Gentry lent it him freely. One day he had won above six-thousand Crowns; but going to play again, he was so unfortunate as to lose it all, besides a good sum of Money which his friends had lent him. Being thus at a loss, and finding that nobody would lend him any more Money, he began to swear against a Picture that hung in the room, which was the Portraiture of some Papistical Saint; saying in his passion, that it was an usual thing with them that played, that if they saw a Saint's Picture hang in their sight, it made them lose; and that if that Picture had not been there, he had certainly won. Immediately the Inquisitor was informed of this, (for in every City in India under the Jurisdiction of the Portuguezes there is one. However his power is limited; having no other authority than to seize the person of him that says or acts any thing against their Religion, to hear the Witnesses, and to send the Offender with the examinations to Goa in the first Ship which is bound thither: where the Inquisitor-General has an absolute Power either to absolve him, or to put him to death. Thereupon Du Belloy was put aboard a small Vessel of ten or twelve Guns loaded with Irons; with a strict charge to the Captain to keep him sase, and some threats that he should be answerable for him if he escaped. But so soon as the Ship was out at Sea, the Captain, who was of a noble disposition, and knew Du Belloy to be of a good Family, took off his Irons, and made him sit at his own Table; giving him also Linen, and other convenient Apparel necessary for the Voyage, which was to continue forty days. They put into Goa the nineteenth of February 1649; and the Ship was no sooner come into Harbour, but St. Amant came a-board by the Governor's order, as well to receive his Letters, as to hear what news in China. But his surprise was very great, to see Belloy in that condition, and that the Captain would not let him go, before he had surrendered him up into the hands of the Inquisitor. Nevertheless, in regard that St. Amant was a person of great credit, he obtained of the Captain, that Belloy should go along with him into the City. As for Belloy he immediately and for the nonce shifted himself into his old clothes, which were all to tatters and full of Vermin; and St. Amant, who knew there was no dallying with the Inquisition, took that season to present him to the Inquisitor; who seeing a Gentleman in such a sad condition, had some compassion upon him, and allowed him the whole City for his Prison; on condition he should surrender his body upon demand, when he understood what was informed against him. In the interim St. Amant brings Duke Belloy to my Lodging just as I was going to visit the Archbishop of Mira, whom I formerly knew at Constantinople, when he was Prior of the Franciscans at Galata. I desired them to stay a while and to dine with me, which they did; after which I proffered my House and Table to Du Belloy, who lived with me; and for whom I also bought two new Suits of Apparel, and Linen convenient. However, all the while that I stayed at Goa, which was ten or twelve days, I could not persuade the Sieur Du Belloy to put on those new clothes, not knowing the reason, though he promised me every day. But being upon my departure, I told him I was going to take leave of the Viceroy; whereupon he desired me to procure leave for him also; which I did. We departed toward evening in the same Vessel wherein I came, and about midnight the Sieur Belloy began to shift himself, and when he had done he threw his old rags into the Sea, swearing against the Inquisition like a mad man; I understanding nothing all this while of the business. When I heard him swear in that manner, I told him we were not yet out of the Portugals hands; neither were he and I with five or six Servants, able to defend ourselves against forty Seamen that belonged to the Ship. I asked him then, why he swore so hearty against the Inquisition; he replied, that he would tell me all the circumstances of the story; which he did when we came to Mingrela, which was about eight a Clock in the morning. When we landed we met certain Hollanders with the Commander, who were eating Oysters and drinking Sack upon the Shoar. Immediately they asked me who that person was with me. I told them it was a Gentleman who attending the French Ambassador into Portugal, had taken Shipping there for India, together with four or five more whom he had left at Goa; but that neither the situation of the place, nor the humour of the Portugals pleasing him, he had desired my assistance in his return for Europe. Three or four days after, I bought him an Ox to carry him to Surat; and I gave him a Servant to assist him, together with a Letter to Father Zenon, a Capuchin, wherein I desired him to speak to my Broker to pay him ten Crowns a month for his subsistence, and to desire of the English Precedent to embark him for Europe with the first opportunity. But it fell out contrary to my intentions; for Father Zenon carried him back again along with him to Goa, where he had some business to do for Father Ephraim his Companion; of whom I shall speak in the next Chapter. Father Zenon without doubt believed, that Du Belloy making his appearance to the Inquisition, and desiring his pardon, might have easily obtained it. 'Tis very true he did obtain it, but it was after he had been two years in the Inquisition, from which he was not discharged but with a Sulphured Shirt with a St. Andrews Cross upon his Stomach. There was with him another Gentleman, called Lewis de Bar upon the Seine, who was used in the same manner; and they always put them to accompany those who were put to death. The Sieur Du Belloy did very ill to return to Goa, and worse to appear afterwards again at Mingela, where the Hollanders, who understanding he had formerly revolted out of their service, by the intelligence they received from their Commander at Surat, seized his person, and sent him away in a Ship that was going for Batavia. They pretended that they sent him to the General of the Company, to do with him as he should think fitting. But I am in part assured, that as soon as the Vessel was out at Sea, they put the poor Gentleman into a Sack, and threw him into the Sea. This was the end of the Sieur Du Belloy. As for Sieur des Marests, he was a Gentleman, born in the Dauphinate, near to Loriol, who having killed his Adversary in a Duel, fled into Poland, where he so far signalised himself, that he won the esteem and affection of the General of the Polonian Army. At that time the Grand Signior kept in the Prison of the Seven Towers at Constantinople, two Noble Polonians; whereupon the Polonian General observing the courage and address of this Des Marests, who was a daring Fellow, and a good Engineer besides, made a proposal to him, to go to Constantinople, and to endeavour, if he could by any means in the world, to set those Princes at liberty. Des Marests willingly accepted the employment, and without doubt he had succeeded in his design, had he not been discovered by some Turks, who accused him for having been too circumspect in viewing the seven Towers, seeing him with a Chalk Pencil in his hand, ready to take the draught thereof, which seemed to tend to no good design. This had been enough to have ruined the Gentleman, had not Monsieur de Cesy the French Ambassador stifled the further examination of the business by some present; which in Turkey is the most sovereign remedy upon all accidents of danger; telling the Visier, that he was only a French Gentleman that travelled for his pleasure, and one that was going for Persia with the first opportunity. However it was not Marests design at that time to go very far, for he intended to have returned into Poland, so soon as he had used his utmost endeavours to set the Princes at liberty; but for his own safety it behoved him to give it out that he was gone to Persia; and at length he was constrained to go thither indeed. As for the Grand Signior, he had resolved never to set the two Noblemen at liberty. But at length they were so fortunate as to gain the love of a young Turk, who was the Son of the Captain of the Seven Towers; with whom the Father usually trusted the Keys to open and shut the Gates of the Prison. The night appointed for their flight, he made as if he had shut some doors, the Padlocks whereof he left all open. But he durst not do so by the two first Gates, near one of which the Captain with a strong Guard lay, for fear of being discovered. The young man, who had entirely devoted himself to serve the Princes, having foreseen this difficulty before, had bethought himself of Rope-Ladders to get over the two Walls; to which purpose it was necessary to have a correspondence within and without. Finding therefore that because the utmost of severity was not used toward those Princes, they had the liberty to receive several Dishes of Meat from the French Ambassadors Kitchen, the Clerk of the Kitchen was made of the plot, who thereupon sent them in several Cords in Pasties, whereof they made Ladders. The business succeeded so well, that the escape was made, and the young Turk fled with the Polonian Lords into Poland, where he turned Christian, and received ample rewards both in Employments and Money. The same gratitude proportionably was observed toward those who had contributed toward the liberty of the Princes, who amply acknowledged the services which they had received from every one of them. In the mean time the Sieur Des Marests arrives at Ispahan, and addressing himself to the Capuchin Friars, they brought him to my Lodging, where he had the freedom of my Table, and a Chamber. He stayed some time at Ispahan, during which he got acquainted with the English and Hollanders, who had a great esteem for him, finding him to be a person of merit. But it happened one day, that his curiosity putting him upon a bold attempt, had like to have been the ruin of him and all the Franks in Ispahan. Near the Inn where we lodged there was a large Bath, where the men and women by turns take their times to come and bathe themselves; and where the Queen of Visapour, during her stay at Ispahan, as she returned home to Mecca, delighted to go and prattle with the French men's wives. The Sieur Des Marests having a passionate desire to see what the women did, satisfied his curiosity, by means of a cranny in the Arch of the Vault, which he had observed when he went thither; for having found out a way without side to get up to that Arch, through a blind hole that was next to the Inn where we lay, the Arch being flat, as I have described them in my relations of Persia, and the Seraglio, he laid himself upon his belly, and saw through the cranny what he so much longed to behold. He was at this sport some ten or twelve times; and not being able to contain himself, he told me one day what he had done. I bid him have a care of going there any more, for fear of ruining himself and all the French men in the City. But he contrary to my advice went thither two or three times after that, till at length he was discovered by one of the women of the Bath that took care of the Linen, and dry them without, upon Perches as high as the top of the Arch, to which they get up by a little Ladder. The woman seeing a man lying all long upon his belly, seized upon his Hat, and began to cry out. But Marests, to get himself out of the mire, and to hinder the woman from making more noise, put two Tomans into her hand. When he returned to the Inn, I perceived him to look as if he had been scared, and conjecturing that some ill accident had befallen him, I pressed him to confess what was the matter. He was loath at first, but at length he confessed how he had been discovered by a woman, and how he had stopped her mouth with money. Thereupon I told him, that there was a necessity for him to fly, for that the danger was far greater than he imagined. The Dutch Precedent also, to whom I thought it convenient to tell what had passed, was of the same opinion; upon which we gave him a Mule, and as much money as was necessary for him, ordering him to go to Bander, and thence by Sea to Surat. I gave him a Letter of Recommendation to the English Precedent, who was my Friend; whom I also desired to let him have two hundred Crowns, if he had occasion for them. I wrote very much in his commendation; and mentioned the proffer which the Dutch Precedent at Ispahan had made him, to send him with Letters to the General, who would not fail to employ him according to his merit. For indeed at that time that the Hollanders had War with the Portugueses in Ceylan, any person of wit and courage, like the Sieur Des Marests, was very acceptable to them. Which made them very earnest with him, to take an employment among them; and to that end, they caressed him, and presented him very nobly during his stay at Ispahan. But he told them, that not being of their Religion, he was unwilling to serve them against the Portugueses; which was the only reason that hindered him from accepting the offers which I had made him. These particulars I wrote in his behalf to the English Precedent at Surat; so that the Sieur Des Marests being desirous to go to Goa to serve the Portugals, the Precedent wrote in his behalf to the Viceroy, by whom he was very much beloved, relating to him, besides, what the Hollanders had proffered him, that his recommendation might be the more acceptable. Thereupon the Viceroy made him very welcome; and upon the Sieur Marests desire to be employed in Ceylan in the Portugal Army, he sent him away with the first opportunity, with Letters of Recommendation to Don Philip de Mascaregnas, who was then Governor of Ceylan, and all those places that belonged to it under the jurisdiction of the Portugueses. It happened three days after, that they lost Nagombe, and when they retook it, the Sieur Marests was one of those that received most wounds, and won most honour in the Assaults. He it was that afterwards was most instrumental in saving Don Philip from being drowned; so that when Don Philip came to be Viceroy of Goa, he could not think he deserved a less reward than the Command of his Guards; in which employment he died within three or four months. He was very much lamented by the Viceroy, by whom he was entirely beloved. But he left his Estate to a Priest, with whom had contracted a particular friendship; upon condition that he should only pay me two hundred and fifty Crowns that I had lent him; which however I had much ado to get out of the Priest's Clutches. While I stayed at Goa, I was told a pretty story concerning a Caravel, or Portugal Vessel, which arrived there but a little before, and came from Lisbon. When she was about to make the Cape of Good Hope, there happened such a violent Tempest, as lasted five or six hours, and put the Mariners to such a nonplus, that they knew not where they were, At length they fell into a Bay, where they saw several Inhabitants; and as soon as they came to an Anchor, they beheld the shore covered with men, women, and children, that testified a strange amazement to see white people, and such kind of building as the Caravel. The mischief was, that they could not understand one another, but by signs. But after the Portugals had given those Cafres' Tobacco, Biscuit, and Water, the next day the people brought them a great quantity of young Ostriches, and other Fowl that seemed to resemble large Geese, but so fat, that they had very little lean. The Feathers of those Birds were very lovely, and those upon the belly proper for Beds. One of the Portuguese Mariners sold me a large Cushion stuffed with those Feathers, and related to me what had happened to them in that Bay, where they stayed seven and twenty days. They gave those Cafres' one thing or other every foot, as Knives, Axes, false Coral, and false Pearls, out of hopes to have discovered some Trade, and particularly whether they had any Gold; for they observed that some of them wore pieces of Gold in their Ears; some beaten thin upon one side, and others like the Nails of a Lock. They brought two of the people to Goa; and I saw one of them that wore several of those pieces of Gold in several parts of each Ear. The Mariner told me, that there were some of their women that wore of those pieces of Gold under their Chins, and in their Nostrils. Eight or nine days after the Portugals arrived in that Bay, those Cafres' brought them little pieces of Ambergreese, some Gold, but very little; some Elephant's teeth, but very small; some Ostriches, and other Birds, some Venison; but for Fish, there was abundance. The Portugals endeavoured all they could by signs to know where they found the Ambergreese, for it was very good. The Viceroy showed me a a piece that weighed not above half an Ounce, but he assured me withal, that he had never seen so good. They also laboured to discover where they had the Gold. After the Elephant's teeth they made no great enquiry, seeing a great number of Elephants that came to drink at a River that threw itself into the Bay. At length after they had stayed three weeks, the Portugals finding it impossible for them to discover any thing more, because they understood not one another, resolved to set sail with the first wind. And because they had always some of these Cafres' aboard, in regard they were very liberal of their Tobacco, Biscuit, and strong Water, they thought good to bring two of them along in the Vessel; in hopes that they might learn the Portuguese Language, or that there might some Child be found out that might understand what they said. The Mariners told me, that when they set sail, after the Cafres' saw that they had carried two of their people away, who perhaps were no inconsiderable persons, they tore their Hair, struck their Breasts as if they had been frantic, and set up a most horrible yelling and howling. When they were brought to Goa, they could never be brought to learn any thing of the Portugal Language. So that they could gettout of them nothing of that further discovery at which they aimed, of a Country from whence they only brought away two pound of Gold, three pound of Ambergreese, and thirtyfive or forty Elephants teeth. One of the Cafres' lived but six months, the other fifteen; but both languished and pined to death for grief to be so trepanned. From Goa I passed to Mingrela, where there fell out an accident not to be forgotten. An Idolater dying, and the Fire being ready prepared for the burning of the Body, his Wife who had no Children, by the permission of the Governor, came to the Fire, and stood among the Priests and her Kindred, to be burnt with the Body of her deceased Husband. As they were taking three turns, according to custom, about the place where the Fire was kindled, there fell of a sudden so violent a Shower, that the Priests willing to get out of the rain, thrust the Woman all along into the Fire. But the Shower was so vehement, and endured so long a while, that the Fire was quenched, and the Woman was not burned. About midnight she risen, and went and knocked at the door of one of her Kinsman's Houses, where Father Zenon and many Hollanders saw her, looking so ghastly and grimly, that it was enough to have scared them; however the pain that she endured did not so far terrify her, but that three days after accompanied by her Kindred, she went and was burned according to her first intention. CHAP. XV. The Story of Father Ephraim, and how he was put into the Inquisition at Goa by a surprisal. THE Check, who had married the Eldest of the Princesses of Golconda, not being able to persuade Father Ephraim to stay at Bagnabar, where he promised to build him an House and a Church, gave him an Ox and two Men to carry him to Maslipatan, where he stayed to embark for Pegu, according to the order of his Superiors. But finding no Vessel ready to set sail, the English drew him to Madrespatan, where they have a Fort called St. George, and a general Factory for every thing that concerns the Countries of Golconda, Pegu and Bengala. They over-persuaded him that he might reap a fairer Harvest in this place, than in any other part of the Indies; to which end they presently built him a very neat House, and a Church. But in the conclusion, the English sought not so much the interest of Father Ephraim, as their own. For Madrespatan is but half a league from St. Thomas, a Sea-Town upon the Coast of Cormandel, indifferently well-built, as formerly belonging to the Portugals. In that place there was a very great Trade, especially for Calicuts, and a very great number of Merchants and Workmen lived there, the greatest part whereof desired to inhabit at Madrespatan with the English, but that there was no place for them to exercise their Religion in that place. But when the English had built a Church, and persuaded Father Ephraim to stay, many of the Portuguezes quitted St. Thomas, by reason of the frequent Preaching of Father Ephraim, and his great care as well of the Natives, as of the Portugals. Father Ephraim was born at Auxerre, the Brother of Monsieur Chateau de Boys, Counsellor of the Parliament of Paris; who was very happy in learning Languages, so that in a little time he spoke English and Portuguez perfectly well. But now the Clergy of St. Thomas-Church seeing Father Ephraim in so high a reputation, and that he drew the greatest part of their Congregation to Madrespatan, were so enraged against him, that they resolved to ruin him. And thus they laid their plot. The English and Portuguezes being neer-neighbours, could not choose but have several quarrels one among another, and still Father Ephraim was applied to for the composing their differences. Now one day it happened, that the Portuguezes quarrelled on purpose with some English Mariners that were in St. Thomas-Road, and the English came by the worst. The English Precedent resolving to have satisfaction for the injury, a War broke out between the two Nations: which had ruined all the Trade of that Country, had not the Merchants on both sides been very diligent to bring things to an accommodation: not knowing any thing of the wicked contrivance of particular persons against Father Ephraim. But all the interposition of the Merchants availed nothing: the Friar must be concerned in the affair, he must be the Mediator to act between party and party, which he readily accepted. But he was no sooner entered into St. Thomas, but he was seized by ten or twelve Officers of the Inquisition, who shipped him away in a Frigate that was bound at the same time for Goa. They fettered and manacled him, and kept him two and twenty days at Sea, before they would let him once put his foot ashore: though the best part of the Mariners lay ashore every night. When they came to Goa, they stayed till night before they would land Father Ephraim, to carry him to the Inquisition-House. For they were afraid, left if they should land him in the day, the people should know of it, and rise in the rescue of a person, who was in an high veneration over all India. The news was presently spread abroad in all parts, that Father Ephraim was in the Inquisition, which very much amazed all the Frenchmen. But he that was most surprised, and most troubled at it was Friar Zenon, the Capuchin, who had been formerly Father Ephraim's Companion; who after he had consulted his friends, resolved to go to Goa, though he were put into the Inquisition himself. For when a man is once shut up there, if any one have the boldness to speak to the Inquisitor, or to any of his Council in his behalf, he is presently put into the Inquisition also, and accounted a greater Offender than the other. Neither the Arch Bishop nor the Viceroy themselves dare interpose; though they are the only two persons over whom the Inquisition has no power. For if they do any thing to offend them, they presently writ to the Inquisitor and his Council in Portugal, and as the King and the Inquisitor-General commands, they either proceed against, or send those two great persons into Portugal. Notwithstanding all these considerations, Father Zenon, taking along with him the Sieur de la Boulay,, a decayed Gentleman, goes to Goa; where, when he arrived, he was visited by some friends, who advise him to have a care not to open his mouth in the behalf of Father Ephraim, unless he intended to bear him company in the Inquisition. Father Zenon seeing he could do nothing at Goa, advised the Sieur de Boulay to return to Surat: and goes himself directly to Madrespatan, more particularly to inform himself concerning the reason of Father Ephraim's being sent away. But when he understood how he had been betrayed at St. Thomas, he resolved to have satisfaction, and without acquainting the English-President, communicates his design to the Captain that commanded in the Fort: Who being incensed, as were all the Soldiers, at the injury done Father Ephraim, not only approved, but also promised Father Zenon to assist him in his design. Thereupon the Father sets his spies; and understanding by them, that the Governor of St. Thomas went every Saturday-morning, early, to a Chapel upon a Mountain half a league from the City, dedicated to the Virgin- Marry, he causes three Iron-Bars to be fixed in the window of a little Chamber in the Covent, with two good locks to the door, and as many padlocks. And having so done, he goes to the Governor of the Fort, who was an Irishman, and a very stout person; who with thirty Soldiers, and Father Zenon, issued out of the Fort about midnight, and hid themselves till day near the Chapel, in a part of the Mountain, where they could not be discovered. The Governor of St. Thomas came exactly, according to his custom, a little after Sunrising; and as soon as ever he alighted from his Pallequin, was immediately surprised by the Ambuscade, and carried to Maslipatan, into the Chamber in the Covent which the Friar had provided for him. The Governor thus surprised, made great protestations against Father Zenon, and threatened him with what the King would do when he should come to hear what he had practised against the Governor of one of his Garrisons. To which Father Zenon said no more, but only that he believed that he was better used at Madrespatan, than Father Ephraim was used at the Inquisition at Goa, whither he had sent him: That if he would obtain liberty for Father Ephraim to return, he would leave him in the same place where they had seized his person, with as much Justice, as he had to send Father Ephraim to Goa,. Many people came to the English Precedent, desiring him to use his authority for the Governor's liberty. But his answer was, that the Governor was not in his jurisdiction, neither could he compel Father Zenon to release him, who had been one of the Authors of the injury which had been done his Companion. So that he contented himself only to desire of Father Zenon that his Prisoner might dine at his Table in the Fort, promising him to return him when he should require his body; a request which he easily obtained, but could not so easily keep his word. For the Drummer of the Garrison being a Frenchman, with a Merchant of Marseilles, called Roboli, then in the Fort, two days after came to the Governor, and promised him, for a good reward, to procure his escape. The agreement being made, the Drummer in the morning beat the Reveillez sooner than he was wont to do, and louder, while Roboli and the Governor let themselves down at a corner of a Bastion that was not very high; and were presently as nimbly followed by the Drummer; so that Madrespatan and St. Thomas being but half a league asunder, they were all three in the Town before their escape was known. The whole City greatly rejoiced at the return of their Governor, and immediately dispatched away a Bark to Goa to carry the news. The Drummer also and the Merchant set sail at the same time, and when they came to Goa with Letters of recommendation in their behalf, there was no House or Covent which did not make them Presents: The Viceroy also himself caressed them extremely, and took them into his own Ship to have carried them into Portugal along with him; but both he and the two Frenchmen died at Sea. Never did any Viceroy depart from Goa so rich as Don Philippo de Mascaregnas; for he had a great parcel of Diamonds, all large stones, from ten Carats to forty. He showed me two when I was at Goa, one whereof weighed 57 Carats, the other 67 and an half; clean Stones, of an excellent water, and cut after the Indian manner. The report was that the Viceroy was poisoned in the Ship, and that it was a just punishment of Heaven, for that he had poisoned several others, especially when he was Governor of Ceylan. He had always most exquisite poisons by him, to make use of when his revenge required it: for which reason, having raised himself many enemies, one morning he was found hung in Effigy in Goa; when I was there in the year 1648. In the mean time, the Imprisonment of Father Ephraim made a great noise in Europe; Monsieur de Chasteau des Bois his Brother complained to the Portugal Ambassador, who presently wrote to the King his Master to send a positive command by the first Ships, that Father Ephraim should be discharged. The Pope also wrote, declaring that he would excommunicate all the Clergy of Goa, if they did not set him at liberty. But all this signified nothing. So that Father Ephraim was beholding for his liberty to none but the King of Golconda, who had a love for him, and would have had him have stayed at Bagnagar. For the King was then at Wars with the Raja of Carnatica, and his Army lay round about St. Thomas'. Hearing therefore what a base trick the Portuguezes had played with Father Ephraim, he sent Orders to his General Mirgimola to lay siege to the Town, and put all to Fire and Sword, unless the Governor would make him a firm promise that Father Ephraim should be set at liberty in two months. A Copy of this Order was sent to the Governor, which so alarmed the Town, that they dispatched away Bark after Bark, to press the Viceroy to use his endeavours for the release of Father Ephraim. Thereupon he was released; but though the door were set open, he would not stir, till all the Religious Persons in Goa came in Procession to fetch him out. When he was at liberty he spent 15 days in the Convent of the Capuchins. I have heard Father Ephraim say several times, that nothing troubled him so much all the while of his imprisonment, as to see the ignorance of the Inquisitor and his Council, when they put him any question: and that he did not believe that any one of them had ever read the Scripture. They laid him in the same Chamber, with a Maltese, who never spoke two words without a desperate oath; and took Tobacco all day, and a good part of the night, which was very offensive to Father Ephraim. When the Inquisitors seize upon any person, they search him presently; and as for his Goods and wearing-Apparel, it is set down in an Inventory, to be returned him again in case he be acquitted; but if he have any Gold, Silver, or Jewels, that is never set down; but is carried to the Inquisitor to defray the expenses of the Process. They searched the Reverend Father Ephraim, but found nothing in his Cloak-pockets, unless it were a Comb, an Inkhorn, and two or three Handkerchiefs. But forgetting to search the little Pockets which the Capuchins carry in their sleeves toward their armpits, they left him four or five black-lead pens. These Pencils did him a great kindness. For the Maltese calling for such a deal of Tobacco, which is always cut and tied up in white-paper, for the profit of the seller, who weighs both Tobacco and Paper together: these Papers Father Ephraim kept very charily, and with his Pencil wrote therein whatever he had studied at any time: though he lost the sight of one of his eyes, through the darkness of the Chamber, which had but one window, half a foot square, and barred with iron. They would never so much as lend him a Book, or let him have an end of Candle; but used him as bad as a certain Miscreant that had been twice let out already with his Shirt sulphured, and a St. Andrews-Cross upon his stomach, in company with those that are lead to the Gallows, and was then come in again. Father Ephraim having stayed 15 days in the Convent of the Capuchins to recover his strength after 20 months' imprisonment, returned for Madrespatan, and passing through Golconda, went to return his humble thanks to the King of Golcolda and his Son-in-law, who had so highly interested themselves for his liberty. The King importuned him again to stay at Bagnagar, but seeing him resolved to return to his Convent at Madrespatan, they gave him as before, an Ox, two Servants, and Money for his journey. CHAP. XVI. The Road from Goa to Maslipatan through Cochin, here described in the story of the taking of that City by the Hollanders. AFter the Dutch had dispossessed the Portugals of whatever they had in Ceylan, they cast their eyes upon Cochin, in the Territories whereof grows the Bastard Cinnamon, which hindered the utterance of Ceylan Cinnamon. For the Merchants seeing that the Hollanders kept up their Cinnamon so dear, bought up that of Cochin, which they had very cheap; and that coming into request, was transported to Gomron, and distributed there among the Merchants that came from Persia, from Tartary, from Moscovia, from Georgia, Mingrela, and all the places upon the black Sea. It was also carried away in great quantities by the Merchants of Balsara and Bagdat, who furnish Arabia; as also by the Merchants of Mesopotamia, Anatolia, Constantinople, Romania, Hungary, and Poland: For in all those Countries, they use it either whole or beaten in most of their meats, to heighten the taste thereof. The Army which was commanded out of Batavia for the Siege of Cochin, landed at a place called Belli-Porto; where the Hollanders had a Fort made of Palm-Trees. It is near to Cranganor, a small City which the Hollanders took the year before; not being able to take Cochin then though they had made some attempts upon it. So soon as the Army landed, they murched within Canonshot of the City, there being a River between them and the City. That part where the Hollanders encamped, is called Belle-Epine, where after they had fortified themselves, as well as the Nature of the place would permit, they raised some Batteries, which could not much annoy the City, by reason of the distance. They lay there till they had recruits of more men; for they had but three Ships full, though he that commanded them were one of the bravest Captains of his time. Some few days after, the Governor of Amboyna arrived with two Ships more, and afterwards a Dutch Captain brought a great number of Chinglas, who are the Natives of the Island of Ceylan. For the Forces of the Hollander would not be so considerable as they are, did they not make use of the Natives of the Country to fill up the Companies which they bring out of Europe. The Natives of Ceylan, are good for digging Trenches, and raising Batteries, but for a Storm they signify little. Those of Amboyna are good Soldiers, four hundred of which were left at Belle-Epine. The Body of the Army took Shipping again, and landed near to Cochin, not far from a Church dedicated to St. Andrew; where the Portugals, with certain Malavares, seemed to have stayed ashore for the Hollanders coming: But seeing the Enemy to land with so much resolution, they only gave them one Volley and retreated. In their March the Hollanders descried certain Companies of Portugueses near the Seashore, others somewhat farther up in the Land, in a Church called St. john's. Thereupon they sent out some Horsemen to discover their number; but the Portugals still retreated, after they had set fire to the Church. Thereupon the Hollanders made their approaches to the Town; and after they had besieged it for some time, a French Soldier, who was under their pay, seeing a Pannier tied at the end of a Cord, hanging over one of the Bastions, ventured notwithstanding all the Bullets that flew about his Ears, to see what was in it. But he was strangely surprised, to find nothing but a languishing infant, which the Mother had hung there, that she might not see it perish for hunger. The Soldier moved to compassion, took the Infant and gave it such as he had to eat; at which the Dutch General was so incensed, saying that the Soldier should have let the Infant perish, that he called a Council of War, where he would have had the Soldier run the Gauntlet, which was very cruel; but the Council, moderating the sentence, condemned him only to the Strappado. The same day ten Soldiers out of every Company were commanded to go to one of the Houses of the King of Cochin; but they found no body there, having plundered it the year before. At which time the Hollanders slew four Kings of the Country, and six hundred Blacks; nor did there escape but only one ancient Queen, who was taken alive by a common Soldier, called Van Rez, whom the Commander of the Army made a Captain immediately, for his reward. They left one Company in that House; but the Queen stayed there but six days, for they gave her into the custody of Savarin, one of the most potent of the petty Kings upon that Coast, to whom the Hollanders had promised to give the City of Cranganor, if they took Cochim, provided he would be faithful to them. Six weeks passed ere any thing considerable was done; but then the Hollanders, storming the Town by night, were repulsed, and lost abundance of men, slain and taken Prisoners, through the Governor of Cranganors fault, who commanded them, and was drunk when the assault was made. Two months after, the General of the Hollanders resolved to make another assault in the same place; and because he would not want men, he sent for those that lay upon the side of Belle-epine. But by misfortune the Frigate struck upon the Sands, and splitting, abundance of the Soldiers were drowned. They that could swim, got to land near Cochin, not finding any other place convenient, and were all taken Prisoners by the Portugals, being not above ten in all, Soldiers and Mariners. The General however would not give over the assault, but causing the Seamen to land, he armed some with half-Pikes, others with Swords, to others he gave hand-Granadoes, and about ten a Clock in the morning he began the assault, with four Companies, consisting each of a hundred and fifty men. The Hollanders lost abundance of men in this last assault, and so did the Portugueses, for they defended themselves stoutly, being seconded by two hundred Soldiers, who were all Dutchmen, though they sided with the Portugueses, because their Countrymen had bated them six months and a half pay for the loss of Tovan. Without the assistance of these Soldiers, the City had never held out two months, there being among them one of the best Dutch Engineers of his time, who had left his Countrymen by reason of their ill usage of him. At length the Hollanders having entered the Town toward evening, on Calivete side, and being Masters of the chief Bulwark, the Portugals came to a Capitulation, and the City was surrendered. The Portugals by their Articles marched out of Cochin with their Arms and Baggage; but when they came out of the City where the Hollanders were drawn up in Battalia, they were all forced to quit their Arms, and to lay them at the General's feet; except the Officers, who kept their Swords. The General had promised the Soldiers the Pillage of the Town, but not being able to keep his word, for several plausible reasons which he told, he promised them six months' pay, which in a few days after was reduced to eight Roupies a man. Samarin also demanded of him the City of Cranganor, according to his promise; which the General made good; but he caused all the Fortifications to be slighted first, and left Samarin nothing but the bare Walls. For being of a very mean Extraction, he was naturally as cruel and barbarous in his disposition. One time the Soldiers being so put to it for four days together, that they could get no food for money, two of them had somewhere taken a Cow and killed her; for which the General, when he came to know of it, caused one of them to be hanged immediately, and had ordered the other to have run the Gauntlet, had not King Perca interceded for him. King Perca was a petty King of that Country, with whom the General was then in Treaty; and the Treaty being at length concluded, the General mustered all his Land and Seamen, to the number of about six thousand men. A few days after, he sent some Companies to besiege the City of Cananor, which surrendered without any resistance. When they returned, the General caused a Crown to be made for the new King of Cochin, the other being expelled his Country. And upon the day which he had appointed for this most solemn Coronation, the General sat upon a kind of a Throne, at the foot whereof, a Malavare or Pirate, being led thither between three Captains of each side, fell upon his knees to receive the Crown from the General's hand, and to do homage for a petty Kingdom, that is to say, the little City of Cochin and its Territories, which were very small. The King and the King-maker were both alike. For no doubt it could not but be a pleasant sight, to see a Hollander, that had been only the Cook of a Ship, crowning a miserable Pirate with those hands that had oftener handled a Ladle than a Sword. In the mean time the Ships that carried the Inhabitants of Cochin to Goa, returned laden with the spoils of those distressed people; for contrary to the Articles of Capitulation, the Hollanders were no sooner out at Sea, but they took from those poor Creatures whatever they had, rifling both men and women, without any regard to sex or modesty. The General being returned into Batavia, they sent a Governor to Cochin, who to make the place the stronger, demolished a great part of the City. But this Governor used the greatest rigour imaginable, even towards the Soldiers; he shut them up in the City as if they had been in a Prison; nor could they drink either Wine, or Sury, or Strong-water, by reason of the great Imposts which he laid upon them. (Sury is a drink which flows from the Palm-trees.) So that when the Portugueses kept Cochin, men might live better for five or six Sous, than under the Hollander for ten. This Governor was so severe, that he would banish a man for the smallest fault in the world, to the Island of Ceylan, to a place where they made Brick, sometimes for five or six years, sometimes as along as the party lived. For it is oftentimes observed, that when any one is banished thither, though the sentence be only for a term of years, yet the Exile never obtains his freedom afterwards. CHAP. XVII. The Passage by Sea from Ormus to Maslipatan. I departed from Gomron to Maslipatan the eleventh of May, 1652, and went aboard a great Vessel of the King of Golconda's, which is bound every year from Persia, laden with fine Calicuts, Chites, or Calicuts painted with a Pencil, which makes them much more beautiful and dearer than those which are printed. The Holland Company are wont to allow to those Vessels which belong to any of the Kings or Princes of India, a Pilot, and two or three Gunners; neither the Indians nor Persians being expert in Navigation. In the Vessel where I was aboard, there were but six Dutch Mariners at most, but above a hundred Natives. We sailed out of the Persian Golf with a pleasing and favourable Gale; but we had not sailed very far before we found the Sea very rough, and the Winds at South-West, so violent, though full in our Stern, that we were not not able to carry out more than one small Sail. The next day, and for some days after, the Wind grew more violent, and the Sea more boisterous; so that being in the sixteenth Degree, which is the elevation of Goa, the Rain, the Thunder, and Lightning, rendered the Tempest the more terrible; insomuch that we could not carry out any other than our topsail, and that half furled. We passed by the Maldives Islands, but were not able to discern them, besides that the Ship had taken in very much water in the Hold. For the Ship had lain five months in the Road of Gomron, where if the Mariners are not very careful to wash the Planks that lie out of the water, they will be apt to gape, which causes the Ship to leak when she is loaden. For which reason the Hollanders wash the outside of their Ships morning and evening. We had in our Vessel five and fifty Horses, which the King of Persia had sent as a Present to the King of Golconda; and about a hundred Merchants, Persians and Armenians together, who were Traders to India. One whole day and night together there risen a cross Wind, so violent, that the Water rolled in from Stern to Stern, and the mischief was, that our Pumps were nought. By good fortune there was a Merchant that had two Bails of Russia Leather, besides four or five Saddlers that knew how to sow the Skins, who were very serviceable as well to the whole Ship as to themselves. For they made great Buckets of the Skins, four Skins to a Bucket, which being let down from the Masts with Pulleys, through certain great Holes which were cut in the Deck, drew up a vast quantity of Water. The same day the violence of the Tempest continuing, there fell three Thunderbolts into the Ship. The first fell upon the Boltsprit, and split it quite in two; and running along upon the Deck killed three men. The second fell two hours after, and killed two men, shooting along as the other did from Head to Stern. The third followed presently after, the Master, the Master's Mate, and myself standing together near the main Mask. At what time the Cook coming to ask the Master whether he should take up the Victuals, the Thunderbolt took him in the lower part of his Belly, made a little hole, and took off all the Hair as clean as they dress a Pig with hot water and Rosin, without doing him any more harm. Only when they came to anoint the little hole with Oil of Coco's, he roared out through the sharpness of the pain which he endured. The twenty-fourth of June in the morning, we discovered Land; and making toward it, we found ourselves before Ponte de Galle, the first Town in the Island of Ceylan, which the Hollanders had taken from the Portugals. From thence to the Road of Maslipatan we had very good weather; where we arrived the second of July, an hour or two after Sunset. There I went ashore, and was most civilly treated by the Dutch Precedent, and Merchants, as also by the English. The eighteenth and nineteenth of June, the Sieur Du Jardin and I, bought us two Pallekiss, and six Oxen to carry ourselves, our Servants, and our Luggage. Our design was to have gone directly to Golconda, there to have sold the King a parcel of long Pearls, the least whereof weighed thirty-four Carats, and the biggest thirtyfive, with some other Jewels, the most part whereof were Emeralds. But the Hollanders assuring us, that our journey would be to no purpose, in regard the King would buy nothing that was rare, or of a high price, till Mirgimola, his General and prime Minister of State, had viewed the Commodity understanding therefore, that he was then at the Siege of Gandicot, in the Province of Carnatica, we resolved to go thither to him. CHAP. XVIII. The Road from Maslipatan to Gandicot, a City and Garrison in the Province of Carnatica. And of the deal which the Author had with Mirgimola, who commanded the King of Golconda's Army. With a discourse at large concerning Elephants. WE set forth from Maslipatan the twentieth of June, about five of the Clock in the Evening. The next day, being the one and twentieth, we travelled three Leagues, and lay at a Village called Nilmol. The two and twentieth, we travelled six Leagues, to Wouhir, another Village; crossing the River upon a floating Bridge, before we came thither. The three and twentieth, after we had travelled six hours, we came to Patemet, a pitiful Village, where we were constrained to lie three days by reason of the Rains. The twentyseventh, we came to a great Town, called Bezovart; not being able to travel above a League and a half, because the Road was all overflowed. There we were forced to stay four days, for the Rains had so swelled the River which we were to cross, that the Ferryman could not govern his Boat against the violence of the Stream. There we also left the Horses which the King of Persia sent to the King of Golconda; which by that time were reduced to fifty. While we stayed at Bezovart, we went to see several Pagods, of which the Country is full; there being more than in any other part of India; for unless it be the Governors of Towns; and some of their Domestics, all the rest of the Inhabitants are Idolaters. The Pagod belonging to the Town of Bezovart, is a very large one, but not closed with Walls; it consists of fifty-two Pillars twenty foot high, that uphold a flat roof of Freestone; they are adorned with several embossed Figures of ugly Devils, and several sorts of Creatures. Some of those Devils are made with four Horns, others with many Legs and many Tails, others lilling out their Tongues, and others in several other ridiculous postures. The same Figures are cut in the Stone of the Roof, and between the Pillars stand the Statues of their Gods upon Pedestals. The Pagod is built in the midst of a Court, of a greater length than breadth, encompassed with Walls, which are adorned within and without, with the same Figures as the Pagod; and a Gallery upheld by sixty-six Pillars, runs round the Wall, after the manner of a Cloister. You enter into this Court through a wide Portal, upon which are two Niches, one above another, the first upheld by twelve, the other by eight Pillars. At the bottom of the Pillars of the Pagod, are certain old Indian Characters, of which the Priests of those Idolaters themselves can hardlytell the meaning. We went to see another Pagod, built upon a Hill, to which there is an ascent of a hundred and ninety-three steps, every one a foot high. The Pagod is foursquare, with a Cupola at the top; and has the same embossed Figures, as the Pagod of Bezovart, round about the Walls. In the middle, there is an Idol sitting crosslegged, after the manner of the Country; and in that sitting posture it is about four foot high; upon the Head it has a Triple Crown, from which four Horns extend themselves; and it has the Face of a man, turned toward the East. The Pilgrims that come out of devotion to these Pagods, when they enter, clasp their hands together, and rear them up to their foreheads; then they advance toward the Idol, tossing their two hands so clasped together, and crying out several times Ram, Ram, that is to say, God, God. When they come near, they ring a little Bell that hangs upon the Idol itself; after they have besmeared the Face, and several parts of the Body, with several sorts of Painting. Some there are that bring along with them Viols of Oil, with which they anoint the Idol; and besides, they make an Offering to it of Sugar, Oil, and other things proper to be eaten; the richer sort also adding pieces of Silver. There are sixty Priests that belong to this Idol, and maintain themselves, their Wives, and Children upon the Offerings brought to the Idol. But to the end the Pilgrims may believe the Idol takes them, the Priests let them lie two days, and the third day in the evening they take them away. When any Pilgrim goes to a pagod, to be cured of any distemper, he brings the Figure of the Member affected made either in Gold, Silver, or Copper, according to his quality, which he offers to his god; and then falls a singing, as all the rest do, after they have offered. Before the Gate of the Pagod, there is a flat Roof, upheld by sixteen Pillars, and right against it, is another upheld by eight; which serves for the Priests Kitchin. On the Southside there is a large Platform cut in the Mountain, where there is a pleasing shade of many fair Trees, and several Wells digged in the ground. Pilgrims come far and near to this Pagod; and if they be poor, the Priests relieve them with what they receive from the rich, that come there out of devotion. The great Feast of this Pagod is in the month of October, at which time there is a great concourse of people from all parts. While we were there, there was a Woman that had not stirred out of the Pagod for three days together; and her prayer to the Idol was, since she had lost her Husband, to know what she should do to bring up her Children. Thereupon ask one of the Priests, wherefore she had no answer, or whether she was to have any answer or no; he told me, that she must wait the pleasure of their God, and that then he would give her an answer to what she expected. Upon this I mistrusted some cheat, and to discover it, I resolved to go into the Pagod when all the Priests were absent at Dinner, there being only one that stood at the Gate, whom I sent to fetch me some water at a Fountain two or three Musket-shot from the place. During that time I went in, and the Woman hearing me, redoubled her cries; for there being no light in the Pagod, but what comes in at the door, it is very dark. I felt my way to the Idol, and by the glimmering light observed an hole behind the Idol. I could not do this so quickly, but that the Priest returned before I had done; He cursed me for profaning his Temple, as he called it. But we became suddenly very good friends by the mediation of two Roupies which I put into his hands, whereupon he presently presented me with some of his Betlé. The one and thirtieth, we departed from Bezovart, and past the River which runs to the Mine of Gani or Colour. It was then near half a league broad, by reason of the great rains which had fallen continually for eight or nine days together. After we had travelled three leagues on the other side of the River, we came to a great Pagod built upon a large Platform, with an ascent of 15 or 20 steps. Within it stood the Figure of a Cow, all of very black-Marble: and a number of deformed Idols four or five-foot-high; some having many heads, others many hands and legs: and the most ugly are most adored, and receive most Offerings. A quarter of a league from this Pagod is a large Town; but we travelled three leagues farther, and came to lie at another Town, called Kab-Kali, near to which there is a small Pagod, wherein there stand five or six Idols of Marble very well-made. The first of August we came to a great City called Condevir, with a double-Moat, paved at the bottom with Freestone. The way to this Town is closed on each side with strong Walls, and at such and such distances are built certain round Towers of little or no defence. This City toward the East stretches out to a Mountain about a league in compass, and surrounded with Walls. At the distance of every 150 paces, there is as it were an halfmoon, and within the Walls are three Fortresses. The second, we travelled six leagues, and lay at a Village called Copenour. The third day, after we had travelled eight leagues, we came to Adanquige, a very fair Town, where there is a very large Pagod, with abundance of Chambers which were built for the Priests; but are now gone to ruin. There are also in the Pagod certain Idols, but very much maimed, which the people however very superstitiously adore. The fourth, we travelled eight leagues, and came to lie at the Town of Nosdrepar. Half a league on this side there is a great River; but at that time it had but little water in it; by reason of the drought. The fifth, after eight leagues journey we lay at Condecour. The sixth, we travelled seven hours, and lay at a Village called Dakije. The seventh, after three leagues journey we came to Nelour, where there are many Pagods, and having crossed a great River, a quarter of a league farther, we travelled six leagues, and came to Gandaron. The eighth, after a journey of eight hours we lay at Serepelé, a small Village. The ninth, we travelled nine leagues, and lay at a good Town called Ponter. The tenth, we travelled eleven hours, and lay at Senepgond, another good Town. The eleventh, we went no farther than Palicat, which is but four leagues from Senepgond; and of those four leagues we travelled above one in the Sea, up to the Saddles of our Horses in water. There is another way, but it is the farther about by two or three leagues. Palicat is a Fort that belongs to the Hollanders that live upon the Coast of Coromandel; and where they have their chief Factory, where lives also the chief Intendent over all the rest that are in the Territories of the King of Golconda. There are usually within the Fort 200 Soldiers, or thereabouts, besides several Merchants that live there upon the account of Trade; and several others, who having served the Company according to their agreement, retire to that place. There also dwell some of the Natives of the Country; so that Palicat is now as it were a little Town. Between the Town and the Castle there is a large distance of ground, lest the Fort should be annoyed by shot from the Town. The Bastions are well-stored with good Guns: And the Sea comes up to the very Wall of it; but there is no Haven, only a Road. We stayed in the Town till the next day in the evening, where we observed, that when the Inhabitants fetch their water to drink, they stay till the Sea is quite out, and then digging holes in the Sand as near the Sea as they can, they meet with freshwater. The twelfth, we departed from Calicat, and the next morning about ten of the clock we came to Madrespatan, otherwise called Fort St. George, which belongs to the English, having travelled not above seven or eight leagues that day. We lay at the Covent of Capuchins, at what time Father Ephraim, and Father Zenon were both there. The fifteenth, we went to St. Thomas' Town, to see the Austin-Friars, and the Jesuits Church, in the first whereof is an Iron-lance, wherewith they say that St. Thomas was martyred. The two and twentieth, in the morning we departed from Madrespatan, and after a journey of five leagues we arrived at a large Town called Serravaron. The three and twentieth, after 7 leagues travel, we came to Oudecot, the whole days journey being over a flat sandy Country. On each side there are only Copses of Bambou's that grow very high. Some of these Copses are so thick, that it is impossible for a man to get into them; but they are pestered with prodigious numbers of Apes: Those that breed in the Copses upon one side of the way, are enemies to them that are bred on the other side; so that they dare not cross from one side to the other, but they are in danger of being immediately strangled. Here we had good sport in setting the Apes together by the ears; which is done after this manner. This part of the Country, at every leagues end, is closed up with Gates and Barricado's, where there is a good Guard kept, and where all Passengers are examined whither they go, and whence they come; so that men may safely travel there with their Money in their hands. In several parts of this Road there is Rice to be sold; and they that would see the sport, cause five or six Baskets of Rice to be set in the Road, some forty or fifty paces one from the other, and close by every Basket they lay five or six Battoons about two-foot-long, and two inches about; then they retire and hid themselves: presently they shall see the Apes on both sides of the way descend from the tops of the Bambov's, and advance toward the Baskets which are full of Rice: They are about half an hour showing their teeth one at the other before they come near the Baskets; sometimes they advance, than retreat again, being loath to encounter. At length the female-Baboons, who are more courageous than the males, especially those that have young ones, which they carry in their arms, as Women do their Children, venture to approach the Basket, and as they are about to put in their heads to eat, the males on the other side advance to hinder them. Immediately the other party comes forward, and thus the feud being kindled on both sides, they take up the Battoons that lie by the Baskets, and thrash one another in good earnest. The weakest are constrained to fly into the wood with their pates broken, and their limbs maimed; while the Masters of the Field glut themselves with Rice. Though it may be, when their bellies are full, they will suffer some of the female-party to come and partake with them. The four and twentieth, we travelled nine leagues, all the way being like the Road the day before, as far as Naraveron. The five and twentieth, after a journey of eight hours, through a Country of the same nature, meeting at every two or three leagues end with Gates and Guards, we came in the evening to Gazel. The six and twentieth, we travelled nine leagues, and came to lie at Courva, where there was nothing to be found neither for Man nor Beast, so that our Cat! were forced to be contented with a little Grass, which was cut on purpose for them. Courva is only a celebrated Pagod; by which, at our arrival, we saw several bands of Soldiers pass by, some with Half-pikes, some with Muskets, and some with Clubs, who were going to join with one of the principal Commanders of Mirgimola's Army, who was encamped upon a rising-ground not far from Courva; the place being pleasant and cool, by reason of the great number of Trees and Fountains that grace it. When we understood the Captain was so near, we went to wait upon him, and found him sitting in his Tent with many Lords of the Country, all Idolaters. After we had presented him with a pair of Pocket-Pistols inlaid with Silver, he demanded of us what had brought us into that Country; but when we told him that we came to attend Mirgimola, Generalissimo of the King of Golconda's Army, about business, he was infinitely kind to us: However, understanding that he took us for Hollanders, we told him we were not Hollanders, but Frenchmen. Thereupon, not understanding what Nation we were, he fell into a long discourse with us about the Government of our Country, and the Grandeur of our King. Six or seven days before, they had taken five or six Elephants, three whereof had escaped, having killed ten or twelve of the Natives who assisted in the Chase; in pursuit whereof the General was preparing; and because we could not stay to see the sport, we were contented to inform ourselves of the manner of hunting that vast Animal; which is thus. They cut out several Alleys or Walks in the Wood, which they dig full of great deep holes, and cover with Hurdles strowed over with a little earth. Then the Hunter's hooping and hollowing, and beating up Drums, with Pikes that have Wildfire tied to the end of them, force the Elephant into those Walks, where he tumbles into the holes, not being able to rise again. Then they fetch Ropes and Chains: and some they bring under their bellies, others they wind about their legs and trunk, and when they think they have sufficiently hampered the Beast, they have certain Engines ready, wherewithal to draw him up. Nevertheless, of five, three escaped, notwithstanding the cords and chains about their bodies and their legs. The people told us one thing which seemed very wonderful; which was, that these Elephants having been once deceived, and having escaped the snare, are very mistrustful ever after; and when they get into the Wood again, they break off a great bough from one of the Trees with their trunk, with which they examine every step they go, before they set down their feet, to try whether there be any hole or no in their way. So that the Hunters that told us the Story, seemed to be out of hopes of ever taking those three Elephants which had escaped. Had we been assured that we might have been eye-witnesses of this miraculous precaution of the Elephant, we would have stayed three or four days, whatever urgent business we had had. The Captain himself was a kind of a Brigadeer, that commanded three or fourthousand men, who were quartered half a league round the Country. The seven and twentieth, after two hours' travel, we came to a great Village, where we saw the two Elephants which had been so lately taken. Every one of the two wild Elephants was placed between two tame ones. Round about the wild Elephants stood six men, with every one an Half-pike in their hands, and a lighted-Torch fastened at the end of the Pike, who talked to the Beasts, giving them meat, and crying out in their language, Take it, eat it. The food which they gave them was a little bottle of Hey, some pieces of brown-Sucre, and Rice boiled in water, with some few corns of Pepper. If the wild Elephants refused to do as they were bidden, the men made signs to the tame Elephants to beat them, which they did, banging the refractory Elephant upon the head and forehead with their trunks; and if he offered to make any resistance, the other Elephant thwacked him on the other side; so that the poor Elephant, not knowing what to do, was constrained to learn obedience. Being thus fallen into the Story of Elephants, I will add some other observations, which I have made upon the nature of those Animals. Though the Elephant never meddles with the female, after he is once taken, yet he is sometimes seized with a kind of lustful rage. One day that Sha-jehan was an Hunting upon one of his Elephants, with one of his Sons that sat by him to fan him, the Elephant became so furious by reason of his lust, that the Governor who was by no means able to master him, declared to the King, that to allay the fury of the Elephant, who would else doubtless bruise him to pieces among the Trees, there was no way, but for one of the three to forfeit his life: and that he would willingly sacrifice his for the safety of the King and the Prince his Son. Only he desired his Majesty to take care of three small Children which he must leave behind him. Having so said, he threw himself under the Elephant's-feets, who had no sooner taken him in his trunk and squeezed him to pieces with his feet, but he grew as quiet and peaceable as before. The King, as an acknowledgement for so famous a deliverance, gave to the poor two-hunder'd-thousand Roupies, and highly advanced every one of the Sons of him that had so generously laid down his life for the safety of his Sovereign. I observed also, that though the Elephant's skin be very hard while he is alive; yet when he is dead, it is just like melted-glue. Elephants are brought from several parts of India; as from the Island of Ceylan, where they are very small; but the most courageous of all: from the Isle of Sumatra; from the Kingdom of Cochin; from the Kingdom of Siam; and from the Frontiers of the Kingdom of Boutam near the Great- Tartary. They are brought also from the Coast of Melinda, Eastward of Africa: where they are in very great numbers, according to the report of a Portuguese-captain, made at Goa, who came from thence to make some complaint against the Governor of Mozambique. He told me that he had seen all along that Coast several Parks that were impaled with nothing but Elephants-teeths, the least of which Parks is above a league about: He added farther, that the Blacks of the Country hunt their Elephants, and eat the flesh. But they are obliged to give the tusks of every one they kill to the Lord of the place. When they intent to take their Elephants in the Island of Ceylan, they make a long lane, closed in on both sides, so that the Elephant can neither run to the right nor to the left: this lane is broad at the first, but grows narrower and narrower, till there is no more room left at the farther-end than for the female-Elephant to lie down, which must be one that is covetous of the male at the same time. Though she be tame, yet she is bound with good Ropes and Cords, and by her cries will call the male-Elephant, who presently runs through the lane towards her. Now when the Elephant comes where the lane grows narrow, they that lie hid for that purpose, immediately barricado up the lane behind, and when he comes near the female, there is another barricado set up that stops him from going any farther. When he is thus between the Barricado's, they so entangle his legs and trunk with ropes and cords, that he is soon taken, having no way to help himself. The same way they use for the most part in the Kingdoms of Siam, and Pegu, only that the Natives there mount the female-Elephant, and go to find out the male in the Forests. And when they have met with his haunt, they tie the female to the most convenient place they can find, and then they fix their snares for the Elephant, who in a short time hastens toward the female, hot for generation, where her cries call him. This is observable of the female-Elephant, that when she gins to be hot, she gathers together a great heap of herbs and weeds, and makes herself a kind of bed some four or five-foot-high from the ground, where contrary to the custom of all other creatures, she lies upon her back, in expectation of the male, whom she calls to her by a peculiar cry. This is also particular to the Elephants in the Isle of Ceylan, that only the first Elephant which the female produces, has any tusks. And it is also observable that the Ivory which comes from Achen when it is wrought, has this peculiar quality with it, that it never grows yellow, like that which comes out of the Continent, and from the East-Indies, which makes it more esteemed, and dearer than any other. When the Merchants bring Elephants to any place to sell; 'tis a pleasant sight to see them go along. For in regard there are generally old and young together, when the old ones are gone by the children will be running after the little ones to play with them, and give them something or other to eat. While the young Elephants, which are very wanton, are busily taking what is offered them, the children leap upon their backs: but then the young Elephants, that lately stopped for the lucre of victuals, perceiving their Dams a great way before them, double their pace, and playing with their trunks, throw the children off their backs to the ground, yet without doing them any harm. Notwithstanding all the enquiry I have made, I could never find exactly how long an Elephant will live. Nor can all the governors and keepers of those creatures tell you more, then that such an Elephant has been in the possession of their Father, their Grandfather, and great Grandfather. And by that computation, I found that they had lived some of them sixscore, or an hundred and thirty years. The greatest part of those that have made Relations of India, boldly affirm that the Great Mogul keeps three or fourthousand Elephants. But being myself at Jehanabad, where the King at present resides, he that was chief Master of the Elephants, assured me that the King had not above five-hundred Elephants, which were called Elephants of the House, made use of only to carry the Women, their Tents, and Luggage; but that for the Wars, he only kept fourscore, or four-score and ten at most. The noblest of the latter sort is always reserved for the King's Eldest Son, the allowance for his food and other necessaries being 500 Roupies a month, which comes to 750 Livres. There are some that are not allowed above 50, others 40, others 30, and some but 20 Roupies. But those Elephants that are allowed an hundred, two-hundered, three-hundered or fourhundered Roupies a-month, have belonging to them certain Horsemen that live upon the same pay, and two or three young fellows to fan them during the heat of the weather. All these Elephants are not always kept in the City: the greatest part being led out every morning into the fields, or among the thickets, where they feed upon the branches of Trees, Sucre-canes, and Millet, to the great detriment of the poor Country man. But not a little to the profit of their Keepers; for the less they eat at home, the more they gain into their own purses. The twentyseventh of August, we travelled six leagues, and lay at a great Town called Ragia-peta. The twenty-eighth, after eight leagues journey we came to Ondecour. The twenty-ninth, after nine hours' travel we arrived at Outemeda, where there is one of the greatest Pagods in all India. It is all built of large Freestone, and it has three Towers, where there stand several deformed figures of Embossed-work. It is encompassed with many little Chambers for the Priests Lodgings: five-hundred paces beyond there is a wide Lake, upon the banks whereof are built several Pagods eight or ten-foot-square; and in every one an Idol representing the shape of some Devil, with a Brameré, who takes care that no stranger that is not of their superstition, shall come to wash, or take any water out of the Lake. If any stranger desires any water, they bring it in earthen-pots: and if by chance their pot touches the stranger's Vessel, they break it immediately. They told me also, that if any stranger, not of their superstition, should happen by accident to wash in that Lake, they must be forced to drain the Lake of all the water that was in at that time. As for their Alms, they are very charitable; for there passes by no person in necessity, or that begs of them but they give them to eat and drink of such as they have. There are several Women that sit upon the Road, whereof some of them always keep fire for Travellers to light their Tobacco by. Nay, they will give a Pipe to some that have none at all. Others boil Rice with Quicheri, which is a grain somewhat like our Hempseed. Others boil Beans with their Rice, because the water wherein they are boiled never puts those that are overhot into a Pleurify. There are Women that have vowed to perform these acts of Charity to strangers for seven or eight years, some for more, some for less, according to their convenience. And to every Traveller they give some of their Beans, and Rice-water, and an handful of Rice to eat. There are other Women upon the highway, and in the fields, looking behind their Horses, their Oxen, and their Cows, who have made vows never to eat but what they find indigested in the dung of those Beasts. Now in regard there is neither Barley nor Oats in that Country, they give their cattle certain great crooked Pease, which they bruise before between two Millstones: and then lay them in steep for half an hour; for they are a very solid substance, and hard to be digested. They give their cattle these Pease every evening; and in the morning they feed them with two-pound of dark-brown-Sugar, like Wax, kneaded together with as much Meal, and onepound of Butter, whereof the Ostlers or Grooms make little round Balls which they thrust down their throats; for otherwise they would never eat them. Afterwards they wash their mouths, that are all over clammed, especially their teeth, which makes them have such an aversion against that sort of food. All the day long they pull up the grass and weeds by the roots, and give their cattle, being very careful of letting them eat any of the earth. The thirty'th, we travelled eight leagues, and lay at a place called Goulupalé. The one and thirty'th, after we had travelled nine hours, we stopped at Gogoron. The first of September we travelled but six leagues, and came to lie at Gandicot. It was but eight days before, that the Nahab had taken that City, after a Siege of three months. Nor had it been taken without the assistance of certain Frenchmen, who had forsaken the service of the Dutch-Company, by reason of ill-usage. They had also several English and Dutch-Cannoneers, with two or three Italians, which mainly forwarded the surrender of that place. Gandicot is one of the strongest Cities in the Kingdom of Carnatica. It is situated upon the point of an high Mountain; there being but one ascent to it, not above twenty or five and twenty-foot-broad at most; in some places not above seven or eight-foot-wide. On the right-hand of the way, which is cut out of the Mountain, there is a most hideous precipice; at the bottom whereof runs a vast River. Upon the top of the Mountain there is a small plain, about a quarter of a league broad, and about half a league long. This is all sowed with Rice and Millet, and watered with many little Springs. The top of the plain on the Southside, where the City is built, is encompassed with precipices, two Rivers running at the bottom, which form the point. So that there is but one Gate to enter into the City from the plain-side; and that too fortified with three good Walls of Freestone, with Moats paved at the bottom with Freestone; so that the besieged had but only one quarter of the City to defend, containing about five-hundred paces. They had but two Iron-Guns, the one carrying twelve-pound-Ball, the other eight. The one was planted upon the Gate, the other upon a point of a kind of a Bastion. So that until the Nahab had found the way to mount his Cannon upon a very high place near the City, he lost a great number of men by several sallies which the Besieged made. The Raja that was within, was esteemed one of the bravest and most experienced Captains that ever were amongst the Idolaters: whereupon, the Nahab finding that the place was not to be taken, unless he could get up his Cannon to the top of that steep ascent, sent for all the Frenchmen that were in the King's service, promising to every one four months extraordinary pay, if they could find a way to mount his Cannon upon the top of such a place; wherein they had the good-hap to be very successful. For they mounted four pieces of Cannon, and were so prosperous, as to hit the great Gun that was planted upon the Gate, and render it unserviceable. At length, when they had beaten down good part of the Wall of the City, the Besiege● came to capitulate, and marched out of the Town upon very good Articles. The day we arrived, all the Army was encamped at the foot of the Mountain, in a plain, through which there ran a very fair River; where the Nahab mustered his Cavalry, and found them in a very good condition. An English-Cannoneer and an Italian seeing Monsieur Jardin and myself pass by, guessed us to be Frangui's; and because it was late, accosted us very civilly, and obliged us to stay with them all night. By them we understood that there was in the City a French-Engineer, whose name was Claudius Maille of Bourges, and that he was employed by the Nahab to cast some pieces of Cannon which the Nahab intended to leave in the City. The next day we went into the City, and found out Maille's Lodging, having been acquainted with him at Batavia; who informing the Nahab of our arrival, he presently sent us Provision for ourselves and our beasts. The third day we went to wait upon the Nahab, who had pitched his Tents upon that part of the plain near the place where the way is cut out of the Rock. We informed him of the cause of our coming, telling him that we had some commodities that were rare, and worth the King's buying; but that we were unwilling to show them to the King till he had seen them; believing it our duty to render him that respect. The Nahab was very well-pleased with our Compliment; and after he had caused us to be presented with Betlé, we took our leaves of him, and returned to our Lodgings, whither he sent to us two Bottles of Wine, one of Sack, and the other of Sohiras, which is a rare thing in that Country. The fourth day we waited upon him again, and carried along with us some Pearls of an extraordinary weight. beauty and bigness, the least whereof weighed twenty four Carats. After he had viewed them and showed them to some of the Lords that were about him, he asked the price, which when we had set him, he returned us our Jewels and told us he would consider of it. The tenth day he sent for us in the morning, and after he had caused us to sit down by him, he sent for five small Bags full of Diamonds, every Bag containing a good handful. They were lose Stones, of a very black Water, and very small; none of them exceeding a Carat, or a Carat and a half; but otherwise very clean. There were some few that might weigh two Carats. After the Nahab had shown us all, he asked us whether they would sell in our Country. We made answer, that they might have been for sale in our Country, provided they had not been of a black Water; for that in Europe we never esteemed any Diamonds, but such as were clean and white, having but a small esteem for any others. It seems, that when he first undertook the Conquest of this Kingdom for the King of Golconda, they informed him that there were Diamond Mines in it. Whereupon he sent twelve thousand men to dig there; who in a whole years' time could find no more than those five small Bags full. Whereupon the Nahab perceiving that they could find none but brown Stones, of a Water inclining much more to black than white, thought it but loss of time, and so sent all the people back to their Husbandry. The eleventh, the French Cannoneers came all to the Nahab's Tent, complaining that he had not paid them the four months pay which he had promised them; threatening him, that if he did not discharge it, they would leave him; to which the Nahab promised to give them satisfaction the next day. The twelfth, the Cannoneers not failing to give him another visit, the Nahab paid them three months, and promised to pay them the fourth before the month were out; but so soon as they had received their Money, they fell a feasting one another, so that the Dancing Wenches carried away the greatest part of their Coin. The thirteenth, the Nahab went to see the Guns which Maille had undertaken to cast. For which purpose he had sent for Brass from all parts, and got together a great number of Idols which the Soldiers had pillaged out of the Pagods as they marched along. Now you must know, that in Gandicot there was one Pagod, said to be the fairest in all India, wherein there were several Idols, some of Gold, and others of Silver; among the rest there were six of Brass, three sitting upon their Heels, and three upon their Feet, ten foot high. These Idols ' were made use of among the rest. But when Maille also had provided all things ready, he could not make those six Idols run, that were taken out of the great Pagod of Gandicot, though he melted all the rest. He tried several ways, but it was impossible for him to do it, whatever expense the Nahab was at; nay though the Nahab threatened to hang the Priests for having enchanted those Idols. And thus Maille could never make any more than only one single piece, and that split upon trial; so that he was forced to leave the work unfinished, and soon after left the Nahabs service. The fourteenth, we went to take our leaves of the Nahab, and to know what he had further to say to us, concerning the Commodities we had then shown him. But then he told us, he was busy at present about the examination of certain Offenders which were brought before him. For it is the custom of that Country, never to put a man in Prison; but as soon as the Offender is taken, he is examined, and sentence is pronounced upon him, according to his crime, which is immediately executed; or if the party taken, be found innocent, he is as soon acquitted. And let the controversy be of what nature it will, it is presently decided. The fifteenth in the morning, we went to wait upon him again, and were immediately admitted into his Tent, where he sat with his two Secretaries by him. The Nahab was sitting according to the custom of the Country, barefoot, like one of our Tailors, with a great number of Papers sticking between his Toes, and others between the Fingers of his left hand, which Papers he drew sometimes from between his Toes, sometimes from between his Fingers, and ordered what answers should be given to every one. After his Secretaries had wrote the answers, he caused them to read them, and then took the Letters and sealed them himself; giving some to Foot Messengers, others to Horsemen. For you must know, that all those Letters which are sent by Foot-Posts all over India, go with more speed than those which are carried by Horsemen. The reason is, because at the end of every two Leagues there are little Huts, where there are men always ready, who are engaged to run away immediately; so that when one of these men that carries the Letters, comes to one of these Huts, he throws the Letters into the Hut, and then he that is appointed, runs with them to the next Stage. They look upon it as an ill Omen, to give the Letters into the Messenger's hands; but they must be thrown at his feet, and he must gather them up. It is to be observed also, that the Highways in most parts of India, are like Walks of Trees; and that where there are no Trees, at every five hundred paces distance there are set up little Heaps of Stones, which the Inhabitants of the next Villages are bound to whitewash from time to time, to the end those Letter-Carriers may not miss their ways in dark and Rainy nights. While we stayed with the Nahab, certain Officers came to tell him, that they had brought certain Offenders to the door of his Tent. He was above half an hour before he returned them any answer, writing on, and giving instructions to his Secretaries; but by and by, all of a sudden he commanded the Offenders to be brought in, and after he had examined them, and made them confess the crime of which they stood accused, he was above an hour before he said a word, still writing on, and employing his Secretaries. In the mean while several of the Officers of the Army came to tender their respects to him in a very submissive manner, all whom he answered only with a nod. There was one of the Offenders which were brought before him, had broken into a House, and had killed the Mother and three Children. He was condemned upon the spot to have his Hands and Feet cut off, and to be cast out into the high way, there to end his days in misery. Another had robbed upon the Highway; for which the Nahab ordered his Belly to be ripped up, and himself to be cast upon the Dunghill. I know not what crimes the other two had committed, but their Heads were both cut off. When we perceived him at a little leisure, we asked him whether he had any other Commands to lay upon us, and whether he thought our Commodities fitting to be shown to the King. He answered, that we might go to Golconda, and that he would write to his Son in our behalf, and that his Letter would be there sooner than we. And in order to our journey, he ordered us sixteen Horsemen to convoy us, and to provide us necessaries upon the Road, till we came to a River thirteen Leagues from Gandicot, which no persons are to pass, unless they have the Nahab's Passport, to keep the Soldiers from running from their Colours. CHAP. XIX. The Road from Gandicot to Golconda. THE sixteenth in the morning, we set out of Gandicot, accompanied with the greatest part of the Cannoneers, who brought us the first days journey upon our way; and that day having travelled seven Leagues, we came to lie at Cotepali. The seventeenth, the Cannoneers took their leaves of us; and we kept on our journey with our Horsemen; and having travelled six Leagues, we lay at a Village called Coteen, on the other side of the River, which is very broad. So soon as we had crossed it, the Horsemen took their leaves of us; and though we made them a present of Roupies, to buy them Tobacco and Betlè, yet we could not persuade them to take it. Their Ferry-Boats wherewith they cross the River, are like broad bottomed Wicker Flaskets, covered without with Ox's Hides; at the bottom whereof they lay certain Faggots, over which they spread a piece of old Tapestry, to keep the Wares and Merchandise from the wet. As for their Coaches and Wagons, they fasten them between two Boats, by the Wheels and the Pole; the Horses swimming all the while, one man whipping them on behind, while another in the Boat holds them up by the Headstall. As for the Oxen that carry the Luggage, as soon as ever they come to the River side, and that they have unladed them, they only drive them into the River, and they will swim over of themselves. There are four men that stand upright at the four Corners of the Boat, and row it along with broad pieces of Wood, made like Shovels. If they do not all strike their strokes together, but that any of the four misses, the Boat will turn round two or three times; and the stream carries it a great way lower than where they intended to land. The eighteenth, after five hours' travel we arrived at Morimal. The nineteenth, we travelled nine Leagues, and lay at Santesela. The twentieth, we travelled nine Leagues more, and lay at Goremeda. The one and twentieth, after six hours' travel, we spent the night at Kaman, a Frontier Town in the Kingdom of Golconda, till the Conquest of Carnatica by Mirgimola. The two and twentieth, we travelled seven Leagues, and came to lie at Emelipata. When we were about half the way, we met above four thousand persons, men and women; and above twenty Pallekiss, in every one whereof was an Idol. They were adorned with Cover of Satin, purfled with Gold, and Velvets with Gold and Silver Fringe. Some of these Pallekiss were born by four men; others by eight, and some by twelve, according as the Idols were in bigness and weight. On each side of the Pallekie, walked a man, with a large Fan in his hand, five Foot in compass, made of Ostriches and Peacocks Feathers, of various colours. The Handle of the Fan was five or six foot long, laid all over with Gold and Silver, about the thickness of a French Crown. Every one was officious to carry one of those Fans, to keep the Flies from the Idols Face. There was another Fan which was carried close by the Idol, somewhat larger than the former, without a handle, and was born just like a Target. It was adorned with Feathers of several colours, and little Bells of Gold and Silver, round about the edges. He that carried it, went always near the Idol upon the same side, to shade the Idol; for to have shut the Curtains would have been too hot. Ever and anon, he that carried that sort of Fan, brandished it in the air, to make the Bells ring; which they presumed to be a kind of Pastime to the Idol. All these people with their Idols came from Brampour, and the adjacent parts, and were going to visit their great Ram, that is to say, their chief God, who stands in a Pagod in the Territories of the King of Carnatica. They had been about thirty days upon the Road, and were to travel fourteen or fifteen more, before they came to this Pagod. One of my Servants, who was a Native of Brampour, and of the same Superstition, begged me to give him leave to bear his God's company, telling me withal, that he had made a Vow long since to go this Pilgrimage. I was constrained to let him go. For had I not given him leave, I knew he would have taken it, by reason he had much acquaintance and kindred among the Rabble. About two months after, he returned again to us to Surat, and because he had faithfully served Monsieur Jardin and myself, we made no scruple to take him again. Ask him some questions about his Pilgrimage, he related to me this following passage: Six days after he left me, all the Pilgrims had made an account to go and lie at such a Village, to which before they came they were to cross a River, that has but little Water in Summer, so that it is easily fordable. But when it reins in India, the Water falls with such a force, that it seems to be a perpendicular deluge; and in less than an hour or two, a small River shall swell three or four foot high. The Rains having overtaken those Pilgrims, the River was swelled in that manner, that it was impossible to pass it that day. Now because it is not necessary for Travellers in India to carry provisions, especially for the Idolaters, who never eat any thing that ever had life; in regard that in the least Village you may meet with abundance of Rice, Meal, Butter, Milk Meats, Lentils, and other Pulse, besides Sugar, and Sweetmeats, dry and moist. The people were very much surprised, having no Victuals, when they came and saw the River swelPd. In short, they had nothing to give their Children to eat; which caused great lamentations among them. In this extremity the chiefest of their Priests fat himself down in the midst of them, and covering himself with a sheet, began to cry out that they who would have any Victuals should come to him; when they came, he asked every one what they would have, whether Rice, or Meal, and for how many persons; and then lifting up the corner of the sheet, with a great Ladle he distributed to every one that which they asked for; so that the whole multitude of four thousand Souls was fully satisfied. My Servant did not only tell me this story, but going several times afterwards to Brampour, where I was known to the chief men in the City, I enquired of several, who swore to me by their Ram, Ram, that it was truth. Though I am not bound to believe it. The twenty-third, we arrived at Doupar, after we had travelled eight leagues, and crossed several Torrents. The twenty-fourth, we travelled four leagues, and came to Tripante; where there is a great Pagod upon a Hill, to which there is a circular ascent of Freestone every way; the least Stone being ten foot long, and three broad: and there are several Figures of Damon's in the Pagod. Among the rest, there is the Statue of Venus, standing upright, with several lascivious Figures about her; all which Figures are of one piece of Marble; but the Sculpture is very ordinary. The twenty-fifth, we travelled eight leagues, and came to Mamli. The twenty-sixth, we travelled eight leagues more, and came to lie at Machels'. The twentyseventh, we travelled not above three leagues, being to cross a wide River in Boats like Panniers; which usually takes up half the day; for when you come to the River side, there is neither Pannier nor any thing else to cross it. There was only one man, with whom we bargained for our passage; who to try whether our Money were good or no, made a great fire and threw it into the flame, as he does to all others that pass that way. If among the Roupies which he receives, he meets with any one that turns a little black, you must give him another, which he presently heats red hot; when he finds his Money to be good, he calls to his Companions to fetch the Mannequin or Flasket-Boat, which lay hid before in some other part of the River. For these sort of people are so cunning, that if they descry any Passengers afar off, they will row their Mamequin to the other side, because they will not be constrained to carry any person over without Money. But the Money being paid, the man that receives it calls his Companions together, who take the Boat upon their Shoulders, and when they have launched it into the River, they fetch their Passengers and goods from the other side. The twenty-eighth, having travelled five leagues, they came to a place called Dabir-Pinta. The twenty-ninth, after twelve hours' travel, we came to lie at Holcora. The thirtieth, we travelled eight leagues, and came to spend our night at Peridera. The first of October, after we had travelled ten leagues, we came to lie at Atenara. This is a House of Pleasure, which the present King's Mother caused to be built. There are many Chambers in a great Piazza belonging to it, for the convenience of Travellers. You must take notice, that in all the Countries where we travelled, as well in the Kingdom of Carnatica, as the Kingdoms of Golconda and Visapour, there are no Physicians, but such as attend Kings and Princes. As for the common people, after the Rains are fallen, and that it is time to gather Herbs, you shall see every morning the good women of the Towns going into the Fields, to gather such Simples which they know to be proper for such Diseases as reign in the Family. 'tis very true, that in great Cities there may be one or two men that have some common Receipts, who go every morning and sit in some known places, to give their Remedies to such as inquire for them, whether they be Potions or Plasters. First they feel their Pulses, and then giving them some remedy, for which they do not demand the value of six pence; they also at the same time mutter certain words between their teeth. The second of October, we had but four leagues to travel before we came to Golconda. We went immediately to the Lodging of a young Dutch Chirurgeon, belonging to the King, whom the Sieur Cheteur, Envoy from Batavia, had left at Golconda upon the King's earnest entreaty. The King was always very much troubled with the headache: for which reason the Physicians had ordered that he should be let blood in four places under the tongue; but there was no person that would undertake to do it: for the Natives of the Country understand nothing of Chirurgery. Now before that Peter de Lan, for that was the Dutch-surgeon name, was entertained in the King's service, he was asked whether he could let blood? To which he answered, that there was nothing so easy in Chirurgery. Some few days after the King sent for him, and gave him to understand that he was resolved to be let blood the next day in four parts under the tongue, as the Physicians had ordered, but he should take a care of not drawing away above eight ounces. De Lan returning the next day to Court, was lead into a Chamber by three Eunuches, and four Old-women, who carried him to a Bath, and after they had undressed him, and washed him, especially his hands; they anointed him with Aromatic-drugs, and instead of his own European-Clothes, they brought him a Robe according to the fashion of the Country. After that, they brought him before the King; where he found four little Porringers of Gold, which the Physicians, who were present, had weighed. In short, he let the King blood under the tongue in four parts, and performed his business so well, that when the blood came to be weighed, it weighed but bare eight ounces. The King was so satisfied with the Operation, that he gave the Chirurgeon three-hundered Pagods, which comes to almost seven-hundered Crowns. The Young-Queen and the Queen-Mother understanding what he had done, were resolved to be let-blood too. But I believe it was rather out of a curiosity to see the Chirurgeon, than out of any necessity which they had to be let-blood. For he was a handsome youngman; and perhaps they had never seen a stranger near at hand, for at a distance, it is no improbable thing, in regard the Women are shut up in such places where they may see, but not be seen. Upon this, de Lan was carried into a Chamber where the same Old-women that had waited on him before he let the King blood, stripped up his arm, and washed it, but more especially his hands; which when they were dry, they rubbed again with sweet-Oils as before. That being done, a Curtain was drawn, and the Queen stretching out her arm through a hole, was let-blood; as was the Queen-Mother afterwards in the same manner. The Queen gave him fifty Pagods, and the Queen-Mother thirty, with some pieces of Cloth of Gold. Two days after we went to wait upon the Nahab's Son, but were told we could not speak with him that day; the next day receiving the same answer, we were advertized upon enquiry, that we might wait long enough in that manner; that he was a young Lord that never stirred from the King; or that if he did leave the Court, it was only to keep his Misses company in his own Haram. The young Chirurgeon seeing us so delayed, offered to speak to the King's first Physician, who was also of the King's Council, and who had testified a great affection toward the Batavian-Envoy, and for de Lan himself; for which reason, he thought he might embrace an opportunity to do him a kindness. In short, de Lan had no sooner spoke to him, but he sent for us, and having, after much civility shown us, informed himself of the cause of our coming, he desired us to show him our Pearls, which we did the next day. After he had viewed them, he made us seal them up again in our own bags: for all that is presented to the King must be sealed with the Merchants-Seal; and when the King has had a sight of the Commodity, it is sealed up with his own Seal, to prevent any fraud, Thereupon we left the Pearls, so sealed up, in his hands, who promised to show them to the King, and to give us a good account of the trust we had put into his hands. The next day about nine of the Clock before noon we went to the River to see how they wash the King's and the Great Nobleman's Elephants. The Elephant goes up to the belly in the water, and lying down upon one side, with his trunk he throws the water several times upon that side which lies out of the water; and when he has soaked himself sufficiently, the Master comes with a kind of a Pumicestone, and rubbing the Elephant's-skin, cleanses it from all the filth that clings to it. Here some believe, that when this creature is once laid down, it cannot rise of its self; which is contrary to what I have seen. For when the Master has well-cleansed the one side, he commands the Elephant to turn the other, which the beast immediately does; and when both sides are well-washed, he comes out of the River, and stays awhile upright upon the bankside to dry himself. Then comes the Master with a pot full of some red or yellow colour, and streaks the beast in the forehead, about the eyes, upon the breast, and all behind, rubbing him afterwards with Oil of Coco's to strengthen the nerves; and some when all is done, he fastens a gilt-Plate upon their foreheads. The fifteenth, the chief Physician sent for us, and returned us our bags again, sealed with the King's Signet, wherewith his Majesty had sealed them after he had looked upon them. He demanded the price; which we told him: Whereupon, an Eunuch that stood by him, and wrote down every thing, wondering at the highprice of the Pearls, told us that we took the King of Golconda's Courtiers for persons that had neither knowledge nor judgement; and that he saw every day things of greater value brought to the King. I briskly retorted upon the Eunuch, that he was better skilled in the price of a young Slave, than the value of a Jewel; and so saying, we put up our Pearls, and returned to our Lodging. The next day we set out from Golconda for Surat, in which Road there is nothing considerable but what I have already described, only this is to be remembered, that we were not gone above five days journey from Golconda, but the King, who had not heard in two days after we were gone, what I had retorted upon the Eunuch, sent four or five Horsemen after us with Orders, if they overtook us, to bring us back: but in regard we were got one days journey into the Territories of the Mogul before one of the Horsemen overtook us, (for the rest stayed upon the Frontiers of the two Kingdoms;) I, that known the humour of the Country very well, made answer for myself and Companion, that at that time our business would not permit us; and that therefore we begged in most humble manner his Majesty's pardon; and afterwards I made my Companion allow my reasons. Being arrived at Surat, Monsieur de Jardin died of an overflowing of choler: And I made a full account to have gone to Agra to Sha-jehan who then reigned. But at the same instant the Nahab, Sha-Est-Kan, the King's Brother-in-law, and Governor of the Province of Guzerat, sent one of the principal Officers of his House to me from Amadabat, to tell me he understood I had some extraordinary Jewels to sell; for which reason he would be glad to see me, and that he would pay me as much for them as the King should do. I received this Message while Sieur de Jardin lay sick, and the ninth day after his death I got to Amadabat, and spoke with the Nahab. Now in regard he was a man that understood Jewels perfectly well, we presently came to an agreement: so that we had no dispute together, but about the quality of the Coin to be paid. He allowed me two sorts to choose, Roupies of Gold, or Roupies of Silver: but the Prince seeming to intimate to me that he should not be well-pleased to let such a Sum in Silver be seen to go out of his House, he wished I would rather accept my payment in Roupies of Gold, that made not such a great heap. I consented to his desire; and he showed me very fair Gold, and many Roupies, that had not seen the Sun in a long time. But in regard the price currant of a Roupy of Gold, is not above fourteen Roupies of Silver, and for that he would have had me taken my Roupies at fourteen and a half, or at least for fourteen and a quarter, it had like to have spoiled our bargain; for I gave him to understand, that in so large a sum, it would not quit cost to lose a fourth part in every Roupy of Gold. At length to please him, I was forced to take the Gold at fourteen Roupies of Silver and an eighth part. Thus a Prince otherwise magnificent and generous, yet in matter of buying and selling, would needs approve himself to be a good Husband. While I stayed at Amadabat, he sent me every day to my Lodging four Silver Plates of Pilaw, and other excellent Diet; and one day that the King had sent him as many Apples as ten or twelve men could carry, he sent me as many as for their rarity at Amadabat, were worth three or four hundred Roupies. Besides all this, he gave me a complete Habit of Honour, with a Sword and a Cangiar, worth a thousand Roupies; and resolving also to give me a Horse, he asked me what kind of one I would have. I told him, since he was pleased to give me my choice, that I rather desired a young lively Horse, rather than an old one. Thereupon he sent me one that was so given to bounding and prancing, that he threw a young Hollander out of the Saddle; but upon my desire to have him changed, he sent me another, which I sold afterwards for four hundred Roupies. From Amadabat I returned to Surat; from Surat I travelled again to Golconda, and thence to the Mine to buy Diamonds. From whence returning back for Surat, I resolved for Persia. CHAP. XX. My return from Surat to Ormus. BEing upon my return to Surat from the Diamond Mine, I understood that the War was proclaimed between the English and the Hollanders, and the latter would send no more Ships into Persia. The English also gave out the same resolutions; for indeed they had sent four Ships into Persia, which they expected back every hour. While I was thus in fear of staying long in a place where I had no business, there arrived at Surat five great Dutch Ships from Batavia; three of which being rather Men of War, than Merchantmen, were ordered to be unladen with all speed, with an intention to look out for the four English Vessels that were expected out of Persia. The other two were appointed to follow two or three days after, being in that time to take in provisions for the whole Fleet. In one of those two Vessels I embarked, and setting sail the eighth of January, we came before Diu the twelfth, where we overtook the other three Ships. There it was debated at a Council of War, what course to steer to meet the English; and it was resolved, that we should steer away for Scindi, where we arrived the twentieth of the same month, and stayed there till the twenty-eighth, and then setting sail with a fair Wind, we landed at Gomrom the seventh of March. The End of the First Book. TRAVELS IN INDIA. The Second Book. Containing an Historical and Political Description of the Empire of the Great Mogul. CHAP. I. A Relation of the last Wars of Indolstan; which gives an insight into the present Estate of the Empire and Court of the Moguls. IHave written this History in such manner, as I knew things to be transacted, during my stay in the Country; leaving it to the Reader to make his own reflections as he pleases; it being sufficient for me to make a faithful description of the Potent Empire of the Moguls, according to the Observations I have taken upon the place. This great and vast Empire, which contains the greatest part of Indolstan, and which extends from the Mountains on this side the River Indus, to the Mountains on the other side of Ganges; borders Eastward upon the Kingdoms of Aracan, Tipra, and Asia. Toward the West upon Persia, and the Usbeg Tartars. Southward upon the Kingdoms of Golconda and Visapour. Northward it runs up as far as the Mountain Caucasus. Northeastward the Kingdom of Bantam, whence comes our Musk, parts it. Northwestward it borders upon the Country of Chegathay, or the Usbegs. They are called Moguls, that is, white of complexion; for the last Conquerors of the Indies were Whites; the Natives being all Brown, or Olive-colour. Aureng-zeg, the present Emperor, is the eleventh in a direct line, of the Descendants from the great Temurleng, commonly called Tamerlane; the extent and renown of whose Conquests, from China to Poland, has exceeded all the actions of the greatest Captains of the former Ages. His Successors completed the Conquest of all India between the two Rivers, with the destruction of several Kings. So that Aurengzeb has at this time under his Dominion, the Territories of Gouzerat, Decan-Dehly, Multan, Lahor, Kashemire, Bengala, and many other Territories; not to mention several rajas, or petty Kings, who pay him Tribute, and are his Vassals. The Succession of the Kings of India is as follows: 1. Termur-Leng, that is to say, the Lame, because one of his Legs was shorter than the other, lies buried at Samarchand, in the Country of Chegathay, or the Usbeg Tartars, being the place of his Nativity. 2. Miram-Cha, the Son of Temurleng. 3. Sultan Mahomet, the Son of Miram-Cha. 4. Sultan Abousaid-Mirza, the Son of Mahomet. 5. Hameth-Sheck, the Son of Sultan Abousaid. 6. Sultan Babur, that is, the Valiant Prince, the first Mogul thatwas of greatest power in India. He died in the year 1532. 7. Homajon, that is, the Happy, the Son of Sultan Babur, died in the year 1552. 8. Abdul Feta Gelal-Eddin Mahomet, commonly called Akabar, that is, the Great, reigned fifty four years; and died in the year 1605. 9 Sultan Selim, otherwise called Jehanguir Patsha, that is, the Victorious Emperor of the World, succeeded Akabar his Father, and died 1627. He had four Sons, the eldest named Sultan Kosrou, the second Sultan Kourom, the third Sultan Perviz, the fourth Cha-Daniel. 10. Sultan Kourom, the second of the four, succeeded Jehanguir his Father; and was acknowledged by all the Nobility, at the Castle of Agra, by the Name of Cha-Bedin Mahomed, but he would be called Cha-jehan, that is, King of the World. 11. Aurengzeb, that is, the Ornament of the Throne, is the present Monarch. The following Figure shows you what sorts of pieces the King's cause to be thrown among the people when they come to the Throne. They represent the Arms or Signets of the Kings which I have named. The biggest, in the middle, was Cha-jehan's, the tenth King. These pieces are most of them Silver; there being very few of Gold. And as for Aurengzeb, he never coined any particular pieces to throw away at his Coronation. The Great Mogul is without all question the richest and most potent Monarch of Asia; the Territories which he possesses, being his own Hereditary Possession; and being absolute Master of all the Territories whence he receives his Revenues. For in the Territories of this Prince, the great Lords are but the Royal Receivers, who give an account of the King's Revenues to the Governors of the Provinces, and they to the chief Treasurers and Controllers of the Exchequer. CHAP. II. Of the Sickness and supposed Death of Cha-jehan, King of India, and the Rebellion of the Princes his Sons. THis great King had reigned above forty years, not so much as a King over his Subjects, but rather as a Father over his Family and Children. Insomuch, that during his Reign there was such a strictness in the Civil Government, and particularly for the security of the Highways, that there was never any occasion to put any man to death for Robbery. In his declining years he fancied a young Lady of an extraordinary Beauty, that was not above thirteen years of age; and because the strength of nature would not permit him to satisfy his passion; he took certain provocatives, which were so hot, that he fell thereupon into a distemper that had almost killed him. This obliged him to shut himself up in his Haram, together with his Women, for two or three months; during which time he appeared very rarely to the people, and that at a great distance too, which made them believe he was dead. For they are obliged by Custom to show themselves to the people three times in a week, or in fifteen days at most. Cha-Jehan had six Children, four Sons and two Daughters. The Name of the eldest was Dara-Cha, the second was called Sultan Sujah, the third Aurengzeb, and the fourth Morad-Bakche. The eldest of his two Daughters was called Begum-Saheb, and the name of the second was Rauchenara Begum. Cha-jehan loved all his four Sons alike, and had made them Governors or Vice-Roys of four of his principal Provinces or Kingdoms. Dara-Cha, who was the eldest, stayed with his Father in Dehly, and had the Government of the Kingdom of Sandi, into which he put a Deputy. Sultan Sujah had for his share the Government of Bengala. Aurengzeb was Viceroy of the Kingdom of Decan; and Morad-Bakche of the Kingdom of Guzerat. But though Cha-jehan endeavoured to give equal content to his four Sons, their Ambition was not satisfied with this division, but ruin'd all the good designs which so kind a Father had laid to preserve peace among his Children. Cha-jehan being thus sick, and retired into the women's quarter, without showing himself for many days; the report ran that he was dead, and that Dara-Cha concealed his death, to gain time to provide for himself, and to secure the Empire: True it is, that the King believing he should die, commanded Dara-Cha to call together all the Omrahs' or Lords, and to seat himself upon the Throne, which belonged to him, as the eldest of his Brothers. He also testified the desire he had to see him quietly settled in the peaceable possession of the Empire. And this intention of his was looked upon as the more just, in regard the other three Brothers had been for some time observed to have less respect for their Father, than Dara-Cha. Dara-Cha, who honoured and respected the King with a real tenderness, made answer to the King, that he desired of Heaven nothing more than the preservation of his Majesty's life, and that so long as Heaven should continue that preservation, he should take it to be a greater honour to continue himself a Subject, than to ascend the Throne. And indeed he was never absent from his Father, that he might be the better able to serve him in his sickness; and because he would be present upon all occasions, he lay by his Father's Bedside, upon a Tapestry spread upon the ground. During the false report of the death of Cha-jehan, his three other Sons immediately rebelled, every one laying claim to their Father's Crown. Morat-Bakche the youngest, who had the Government of Guzerat, sent away Forces immediately to besiege Surat, the most considerable Port, and most frequented of any other all over India. The City made no resistance, for the Walls are very weak, and broken down in several places. But they defended the Citadel, where the Treasure was, very stoutly; though the young Ambitious Prince did all he could to make himself Master of it. Chabas-Kan, one of his Eunuches, who was General of his Army, an industrious and active person, and who carried on the Siege with all the experience of an old Captain; when he saw he could not carry the Castle by main force, caused it to be undermined in two places, by the assistance of an European Engineer, which took effect; so that upon the twenty-ninth of December, 1659., he threw down a good part of the Walls, and filled up the Moat; which very much terrified the besieged. But they presently recovered their courage, and though they were but a small number, they defended themselves for above forty days, to the great damage and slaughter of Morat-Bakche's Army. Chabas-Kan, provoked at such a vigorous resistance, sought for all the Wives and Children, Parents and Kindred of the Cannoneers that were within the Castle, to place them at the head of his men, when they made their approaches. He also sent one of the Brothers of the Governor of the place, to offer him advantageous conditions. But the Governor, being a very loyal person, and uncertain of the King's death, rejected all his offers. The Eunuch perceiving the Resolution of the Governor, threatened the besieged to kill all their Wives and Children, Parents and Kindred, if they did not surrender the place the next day. But neither did any of those considerations prevail, till at length the breach being made wider, and the number of defendants decreasing, the Governor surrendered upon honourable conditions; which were punctually performed by Chabas-Kan, who seized upon all the Treasure, and carried it to Amadabat; where Morat-Bakche was busily employed in squeezing the people to get Money. The news of the taking Surat being brought to this Prince, he presently provided himself a Throne, and sitting upon it on the day which was appointed for the Ceremony, he caused himself to be declared King, not only of Guzerat, but of all the Dominions of Cha-jehan his Father. At the same time he also coined Money, and sent new Governors into all the Cities. But his tottering Throne, not being well fixed, fell soon to the Ground; and the youngest of all the Brothers, for having usurped a Sceptre that no ways appertained to him, was confined to a severe imprisonment. Prince Dara-Cha fain would have relieved Surat; but it was impossible. For besides that he was busied in the assistance of his Father the King, his second Brother Sultan-Sujah, more powerful than Morat-Bakche, found him far more work to do. He was already advanced into the Kingdom of Lahor, having absolutely reduced the Kingdom of Bengala. All that Dara-Cha could do, was to send Soliman Checour his eldest Son, with an Army against Sultan Sujah. The young Prince having defeated his Uncle, and driven him back into Bengala, the Frontiers whereof he secured with good Garrisons, returned to Dara-Cha his Father. In the mean time Morat-Bakche, acknowledged for King in the Kingdom of Guzerat, bends all his Force and Counsels to make himself Emperor of the Indies, to destroy his Brothers, and to fix his Throne either in Agra or Jehanabat. Whiles these things passed, Aurengzeb as ambitious, but more crafty than his Brothers, lets them alone to kindle the first Fires; and conceals his own designs, which afterwards appeared so much to the damage of the rest. At first he feigned to lay no claim to the Empire, but lived a private life, like a Dervich, or Religious Hermit. And the better to act his part, he declared to his younger Brother Morat-Bakche, whom he saw to be so ambitious, how willing he should be to assist him in his designs; telling him, that because he merited the Empire by his Valour, he would aid him with his Money and his Forces to overthrow Dara-Cha, who only stood in his way. The young Prince, blinded with the hopes of his good Fortune, easily believed Aurengzeb. And so joining Forces together, he advances towards Agra, to make himself Master of that City. Dara-Cha marches to meet them; but the Battle was as imprudently managed by him, as fortunately fought by his Brothers. For Dara-Cha, confiding too much in the principal Officers of his Army, against the advice of his General, who was his chief Minister of State, and faithful to him; thought himself sure of the Victory, by falling on before his Brothers had time to repose themselves. The first onset was very rude and bloody, where Morat-Bakche, full of fire and courage, fight like a Lion, was shot with five Arrows into the body. The Victory leaning to Dara-Cha, Aurengzeb retreated; but soon turned head again, when he saw those Traitors advancing to his aid, who were in the Army of Dara-Cha, and who had treacherously deserted him, after he had lost his best Officers and his General. With this assistance Aurengzeb renews the fight against Dara-Cha; who seeing himself betrayed, and unable to maintain the fight with the small number of men which he had left, retreats to Agra, where the King his Father was, who began to mend. The King advised his Son to retire to the Fortress of Dehly, and to carry the Treasure that was in Agra with him; which he did without delay. Thus the Victory fell entirely to Aurengzeb and Morat-Bakche, who before the end of the Battle, being weakened with the loss of blood, was forced to retire to his Tent, to have his wounds dressed. Now it was an easy thing for Aurengzeb to gain those Traitors, as well by reason of the vast Treasures which he had, as also for that the Indians are very inconstant, and want generosity. Besides, the Commanders are generally Fugitive Persians, persons of little worth, who are altogether for them that give most. Cha-Est-Kan, who was Uncle to these four Princes, whose Mother was the King's Sister, went over to Aurengzeb with the greatest part of the principal Commanders that had adhered to Dara-Cha, and Morat-Bakche, and had forsaken their Masters. Morat-Bakche then began to see his Error in having trusted Aurengzeb, who seeing himself favoured by Fortune, lost no time to accomplish his ends. Thereupon Morat-Bakche sends to his Brother for the half of the Treasure that he had seized, that he might retire to Guzerat. But Aurengzeb for answer assured him, that he had no other design than to advance him to the Throne, to which purpose he desired to confer with him by word of mouth. Morat-Bakche in order to that, finding himself indifferently well recovered of his wounds, goes to visit his Brother, who kindly welcomed him, extolled his courage, and told him he deserved the best Empire of the world. The young Prince was charmed by the melody of such sweet language, while his Eunuch, Shabas-Kan, did all he could to make him sensible of the snares that were laid for him. But when Morat-Bakche should have taken the Eunuch's advice, it was too late; for Aurengzeb had already laid his plot to destroy him. He invites Morat-Bakche to a Feast; and the more the one excuses himself, the more the other presses him to come. The young Prince perceiving he would take no denial, resolved to go, for fear of discovering the mistrust he had, although he verily believed that that day would be the last of his life, and that some deadly poison was brewed for him. However, he was deceived in that particular, for Aurengzeb not aiming at his life then, contented himself only to deprive him of his liberty, and so instead of advancing him to the Throne, sent him away, to be safely kept in the Castle of Gavaleor. CHAP. III. Of the Imprisonment of Cha-jehan, and how he was punished by Aurengzeb his third Son, for the injustice he had done Prince Boulaki his Nephew, the Grandchild of Gehanguir, to whom, as to the Son of the Eldest Son, the Empire of the Moguls belonged. Gehanguir, King of India, Son of Achbar, and Grandchild to Houmajon, reigned very peaceably during the space of twentythree years, equally beloved both by his Subjects and Neighbours. But his life seemed too long to his two Sons, who were both ambitious to reign. The eldest raised a powerful Army near Lahor, with an intention to have surprised his Father, and to have possessed himself of the Throne by force. The King incensed at the insolence of his Son, resolved to chastise him; meets him with a considerable Army, defeats him, and takes him Prisoner, with many of the most considerable Nobility that adhered to him. After which, out of a natural affection to his Children, he saved his life, but put out his Eyes. And when he was blind he always kept him about his person, with an intention to have preferred his eldest Son Boulaki to the Crown, whose Father had already many Sons, but all very young. But Sultan Courom, his second Son, believing it his right to be preferred before a Nephew, resolved to leave no stone unturned to remove him from his hopes, and to settle himself in possession before the death of his Father. However he concealed his intentions from him, appearing outwardly very obedient to his Father, who always kept about him the Children of his eldest Son. By that submission he more easily brought about his designs; for having by that means gained the good will of his Father, he obtained leave to carry along with him the blind Prince, his eldest Brother, to his Government of the Kingdom Decan. He laid before his Father, that it would be far better to remove from his sight, an object that could not choose but be so afflicting to him; and that the Prince himself, being blind, would spend the rest of his days more comfortably in Decan, where he might be more retired. The King not penetrating into his design, readily consented to his request. Who when he had that poor Prince in his Clutches, made him away with that secrecy which was not to be discovered; and under the most plausible pretence imaginable, to conceal him from the eyes of men. After the death of the blind Prince, Sultan Courom took upon him the name of Cha-jehan, that is, King of the World; and to uphold his Title, he raised an Army to finish what his Brother had begun, which was to dethrone his Father, and to take possession of the Empire. The King incensed as well at the death of his Son, as at the attempt against his own person, sent a considerable Army to chastise Courom for so bold an Enterprise. But the rebellious Prince finding himself too weak to stand his Father's force, quitted the Kingdom of Decan, and with certain Vagabonds that followed him, wandered from place to place, till he came to Bengala, where he raised an Army with an intention to give the King Battle. To which purpose, passing the Ganges, he marches directly toward the Kingdom of Lahor; whom the King in person met, with an Army much more numerous and stronger than his. But Gehanguir being old, and wearied with the troubles that his Sons had put him to, died by the way, leaving Cha-jehan at liberty to pursue his own designs. However before he expired, the good King had time to recommend his Grandchild Boulaki to Asouf-Kan, his Generalissimo and prime Minister of State, who was Protector of the Empire. He commanded also all the Officers of the Army to acknowledge him for King, as being the lawful Heir; declaring Sultan Komrom a Rebel, and incapable of the Succession. Moreover he made Asouf-Kan to swear in particular, that he would never suffer Boulaki to be put to death, which way soever affairs went; which Asouf-Kan swore upon his Thigh; and as religiously observed as to the Article of not putting him to death; but not as to that of helping him to the Crown, which he designed for Cha-jehan, who had married his eldest Daughter, the Mother of four Princes, and two Princesses. The news of the King's death being known at Court, caused a general lamentation. And presently all the Grandees of the Kingdom set themselves to execute the Kings Will and Testament, acknowledging Sultan Boulaki for Emperor, who was very young. That Prince had two Cousin-germen, who were both of them by the Kings consent turned Christians, and made public profession thereof. Those two young Princes, being very apprehensive, perceived that Asouf-Kan, Father-in-Law to Cha-jehan, and Father of Cha-Est-Kan, had no good intentions toward the young King, and gave him notice of it; which cost them their lives, and the King the loss of his Dominions. For the young King, having no more with than was agreeable to his age, openly declared to Asouf-Kan what his Cousins had revealed to him in private, and asked the General whether it were true, that he had a design to set up his Uncle against him or no. Asuof-Kan immediately accused the Reporters of salsity and impudence, and protested his fidelity to his King, and vowed to spend the last drop of his blood to preserve him in the possession of the Empire. However seeing his Conspiracy discovered, he resolved to prevent the punishment; to which end having got the two Princes into his possession, he put them both to death. But before that, in regard of his power in the Army and in the Empire, he had already brought over to Cha-jehan's party the greatest part of the Commanders and Lords of the Court; and the better to play his game, and deceive the young King, he raised a report that Cha-jehan was dead; and because he had desired to be buried near his Father Gehanguir, the body was to be brought to Agra. This Stratagem being cunningly managed, Asouf-Kan himself gave advice of the feigned death to the King; telling the King withal, that it would be but a common civility for him to go and meet the Corpse when it came within a League or two of the City, being an Honour due to a Prince of the Blood of the Moguls. All this while Cha-jehan kept himself incognito, till coming within sight of the Army that lay about Agra, he caused himself to be put into a Coffin, wherein there was only a hole left for him to breath at. This Coffin being carried under a moving Tent, all the principal Officers who were of the plot with Asouf-Kan, came to perform the usual Ceremonies of State to the body of the deceased Prince, while the young King was upon the way to meet the body. But then Asouf-Kan finding it seasonable to execute his design, caused the Coffin to be opened, and Cha-jehan rising up, and showing himself to the eyes of all the Army, was saluted Emperor by all the Generals and other principal Officers, who had their Cue ready; so that the name of Cha-jehan running in a moment from one man's mouth to another, the Acclamation became public, and the Empire was settled upon him. The young King hearing the news by the way, was so surprised, that he thought of nothing but how to save himself by flight, being upon a sudden forsaken by all his followers. And Cha-jehan not believing it any way necessary to pursue him, suffered him to wander a long time in India like a Fakir. At length he retired into Persia, where he was magnificently received by Cha-Sefi, who allowed him a pension fit for so great a Prince, which he still enjoys. Cha-jehan having thus usurped the Crown, the better to secure himself, and to stifle all Factions that might arise during the life of the lawful Prince, whom he had so unjustly despoiled of his right, by degrees put to death all those that had shown any kindness to his Nephew. So that the first part of his Reign was noted for many acts of cruelty, that blemished his reputation. No less unfortunate was the end of his Reign. For as he had unjustly deprived the lawful Heir, of the Empire which belonged to him; he was himself, while he yet lived, deprived of his Crown by Aurengzeb his own Son, who kept him Prisoner in the Fortress of Agra. For after Dara-Cha had lost the Battle against his two Brothers, Aurengzeb and Morat-Bakche, in the Plain of Samonguir, and was treacherously abandoned by the principal Officers of the Army, he retired into the Kingdom of Lahor, with all the Treasure which the confusion of his affairs would suffer him to get together. In the King to resist the violence of his victorious Sons, shut himself up in the Castle of Agra, to the end he might not be surprised, but have time and leisure to observe how far the insolence of his children would transport them. As for Aurengzeb, who had Morat Bakche safe enough, he enters Agra, feigning to believe a report that Cha-jehan was dead, that he might have liberty to get into the Fortress, where he said one of the Omras would make it out. The more he reported the death of Cha-jehan, the more did the King endeavour to let the people know he was alive. But finding both Power and Fortune had taken Aurengzeb's party; and being also in great necessity for want of water, he sent Fazel-Kan, grand Master of his Household, to assure his Son that he was alive; and withal to tell him that it was the King's command, that he should retire to his Viceroyship in Decan, without putting him to any more vexation, and that upon his obedience, he would forgive whatever had past. Aurengzeb, firm in his resolution, returned for answer to Fazel-Kan, that he was certain that the King his Father was dead, and that upon that account he had only taken Arms to secure the Crown to himself, which he thought he deserved, as well as the rest of his Brothers. That if his Father were living, he had too great a respect for him to undertake the least enterprise that should displease him; and therefore that he might be certain he was not dead, he desired to see him, and to kiss his feet; and having so done, he would retire to his Government, and punctually obey his Commands. Fazel-Kan returned this answer to the King, who declared that he should be glad to see his Son, and sent back Fazel-Kan, to tell him he should be welcome. But Aurengzeb more cunning than Cha-jehan; assured Fazel-Kan that he would not set his foot in the Castle, till the Garrison that was in it should be sent away to make room for his men. For the Prince was afraid, and not without reason, if he should adventure into a Fortress where he was not absolute Master himself, lest they should seize his person, of which the King being apprehensive, consented to his proposal, not being able to do better at that time. Thereupon the Garrison which belonged to Cha-jehan was sent out of the Castle, and another of Aurengzeb's entered, commanded by Sultan Mahomet the eldest of his Sons, to whom he gave order to secure his Father's person. When they were thus got in, and his Father safe, he delayed seeing his Father from day to day, waiting (as he gave ou t for excuse) a kind opportunity for the interview; and pretending his Astrologers did not presently think it seasonable, he retired into the Country, to a House about two or three leagues from Agra, which very much displeased the people, who waited every day for the fortunate hour, from which they expected a conclusion of their miseries by the Father and Son's discourse together. But Aurengzeb, who was in no great haste to see his Father, took up another resolution, which was to seize upon all his Father's treasure, which Dara-Sha had not time to carry away. He also shut up in the same Fortress Begum-Saheb his Sister, to keep the King company, by whom she was entirely beloved: and took into his own hands all the wealth she had got, by her Father's liberality. Cha-jehan enraged to see himself used in that manner by his own Son, made an attempt to escape, and killed some of the Guards that opposed him; which caused Aurengzeb more strictly to confine him. In the mean time it was a wonderful thing to see that not one of the Servants of so great a King so much as offered to help him; that all his Subjects should forsake him, and turn their eyes upon the rising-Sun; acknowledging only Aurengzeb for King, while they seemed to have forgotten Cha-jehan, though still alive. Thus this great Monarch sadly ended his days in Prison, and died in the Fortress of Agra in the year 1666 the last time that I was in India. During his Reign he had begun to build the City of Jehanabad, though he had not quite finished it, and therefore he desired to see it once more before he died; but Aurengzeb would not give him leave, unless he would be content to go and come back by water, or else to be confined to the Castle of Jehanabad, as he was at Agra, which refusal of his Son did so torment him, that it hastened his end. Which as soon as Aurengzeb heard of, he came to Agra, and seized upon all the Jewels, whick he had not taken from his Father while he lived. Begum-Saheb had also a quantity of Jewels, which he had not taken from her when he put her into the Castle. But now, because she had formerly taken her Father's part, he found out a way to deprive her of them after a very plausible manner; making a show of bestowing very great Honours and Caresses upon his Sister, and taking her along with him to Jehanabad. But in a short time after we heard the news of her death; which proved, and all people suspected her to have been poisoned. CHAP. IU. Of the Flight of Dara-cha to the Kingdoms of Scindi and Guzerat: Of the second Battle which he fought against Aurengzeb: His being taken Prisoner, and death. DAra-cha having carried along with him the best part of the Gold and Silver which was in the Fortress of Agra by his Father's advice, and being got into the Kingdom of Lahor, was in good hopes to have raised an Army in a short time to have stopped the proceed of his Brother. His most faithful Servants and Friends had always accompanied him in his misfortune. And as for his Eldest Son, Soliman Shekour, he went, with the Raja Roup, into the Territories of that rajas own demeans, to levy men; carrying along with him five-millions of Roupies, which make of our Money seven-millions and 500000 Livres. But that great Sum opening the Raja Roup's eyes, he most treacherously and infamously seized upon it; whereupon Soliman Chekour, fearing he should proceed farther, and make some attempt upon his person, fled in all haste into the Kingdom of Sireneguer, under the protection of the Raja Nakti-Rani, who more foully and basely delivered him up sometime after to Aurengzeb. Dara-cha having notice of the Raja Roup's treason, and seeing all his friends had forsaken him, and were revolted to Aurengzeb, quitted Lahor, and retired into the Kingdom of Scindi. Before he left the Fortress, he sent all the Gold, Silver, Jewels and Wealth that was in the Fort, away by water to Baker, a Fort in the midst of the River Indus. To guard all that Wealth, he lest an Eunuch, and six-thousand men, with all provisions necessary for a Siege; after that he went to Scindi, where he left several great pieces of Cannon. Then he marched through the Territories of the Raja of Kachnagana, who made him mountainous promises to no effect; then he came into the Kingdom of Guzerat, where the people received him as their lawful King and Heir to Cha-jehan. He sent his Orders to all the Cities, and particularly to Surat, where he appointed a Governor; but the Governor of the Fortress, who was left there by Morat-Bakche, refused to submit to Dara-cha, so that he was forced to let him alone. In the mean time Dara-cha received news at Amadabat, that Jessomseing, one of the most potent rajas in all India, was fallen off from Aurengzeb. The same Raja also solicits him to advance with his Army. Dara-cha confiding in his words, followed his counsel, and marched to Emir, which was the place of Rendezvouz appointed. But Raja Jessomseing being regained by the persuasions of Raja Jessing, more potent than himself, to favour Aurengzeb, never met according to his promise; nor did he come till the last push; and then only with a design to betray the poor Prince. Thus the two Brother's meeting, they came to a Battle which lasted three days: but in the heat of all the Fight, Jessomseing showing an apparent treachery, went over to Aurengzeb; upon which Dara-cha's Soldiers immediately fled. Dara-cha having thus lost all his hopes, and finding Fortune contrary to all his expectations, fled away likewise with his Wives, some of his Children, and his most faithful Servants, in an equipage that drew compassion. But coming to Amadabat, the Governor having declared for Aurengzeb, denied him entrance. Thereupon he discamped in the middle of the night, and took the road for Scindi. He arrived at Scindi, with an intention to pass into Persia, where Cha-Abas the Second expected him with a magnificent Retinue, and a resolution to have assisted him with Men and Money. But not daring to trust himself by Sea; as he passed through the Country of the Patanes, in the way to Candahar, he was unworthily betrayed by one of the Lords of the Country, called Gion-Kan; who had been an Officer under the King his Father, and who having been condemned for his crimes by the mouth of his Father, and ready to be thrown under the Elephant's-feets, had been pardoned at the intercession of Dara-cha. For an addition to his affliction, before he came to Gion-Kan's House, he received the news of the death of that particular Wife which he loved most entirely, and which had always accompanied him in his misfortunes. He understood that she died through heat and drought, not being able to get a drop of water in the Country to refresh her thirst. The Prince was so moved at the news, that he fell down, like one that had been struck quite dead; and when he came to himself, he tore his clothes in the excess of his grief: an ancient custom still continued in the East. He had always showed himself insensible upon all other occasions of misfortune, but this fatal stroke so deeply pierced him, that he would receive no consolation from his friends. After this, he clad himself according to his misfortune; and instead of a Turban, he only put about his head a piece of coarse Calicut. In this miserable equipage he entered into the House of the Traitor Gion-Kan, where being laid down to rest himself upon a Field-bed, a new subject of sorrow awaked him. For Gion-Kan having a design to seize Sepper-Shekour, Dara-cha's second Son, the young Prince, though but a Youth, made a bold resistance, and with his Bow and Arrows laid three men upon the ground; but not being able to resist a multitude, he was at length taken. Dara-cha wakened with the noise, saw before his eyes his Son, whom they were leading toward him, with his hands tied behind him. Then the miserable Father of the young Prince, no longer misdoubting the horrid treason of Gion-Kan, could not refrain from letting fall in his passion these expressions. Finish, said he, ingrateful and infamous Villain as thou art, finish the work thou hast begun; we are become Victims to bad Fortune, and Aurengzeb 's unjust Ambition. But remember that I only deserve death for having saved thy life: for never Prince of the Royal Blood had his hands tied behind him before. Gion-Kan in some measure moved at these words, caused the little Prince to be unbound, and only set guards upon Dara-oha and his Son. At the same time he also sent expresses to Raja Jessomseing, and to Abdulla-Kan, to give them advice that he had seized upon Dara-cha and his Train. Thereupon they made haste to share in the spoils of that poor Prince. But they could not be so swift, but that Gion-Kan had seized upon all that Dara-cha had of most precious in the World; using as inhumanly both his Wives and his Children. The Raja and Abdulla being arrived, provided Elephants for the Prince, his Son, and his Wives, and carried them away immedlately to Jehanabat; the people crowded to behold them, every one being desirous to see the Prince whom they so earnestly desired to have had for their King. Aurengzeb caused them to be shown in all the Streets and Market-places of Jehanabat, that no man might question hereafter their being taken; and as if he had gloried in his treachery toward his Brother, he presently condemned and sent him away to the Castle of Asser. But of all that crowded to behold, not one would stir to assist or secure their lawful Prince. Only some few generous Soldiers who had served him, and had received some kindnesses from him, seeing themselves not able to deliver their Prince, yet desirous to show him some proofs of their acknowledgement, fell with all their fury upon the Traitor Gion-Kan, who though he were rescued from them at that time, yet soon after met with the reward due to his crime; for he was killed as he was crossing a Wood in his return home. In the mean time Aurengzeb, like a good Politician, and an extraordinary Dissembler, gave it out, that it was by no order of his that Dara-cha was seized; only he desired him to retire out of the Kingdom, which he refusing to do, Gion-Kan, unknown to him, had unworthily seized his person; and without respect to the Royal-Blood, had shamefully tied the hands of the young Sepper-Shekour behind him: which being a crime and an indignity done to his Majesty, had been punished, by the death of Gion-Kan and his accomplices. But this was only published to abuse the people; for had it been true, Aurengzeb would never have given order to have his Brother's head cut off. For Dara-Cha being sent from Jehanabat with a Guard to the place of his imprisonment; when he came to a fair place where he thought to repose himself, they dressed up the Tent where he was to leave his Head. After he had eaten, Seif-Kan came and brought him the sentence of his Death. Dara-Cha seeing him enter, told him he was very welcome, and that he was glad to see one of his most faithful Servants. Seif-Kan made answer, that indeed he had formerly been one of his Servants, but that now he was the Slave of Aurengzeb, who had commanded him to bring him his Head. Must I die then? said Dara-Cha. 'Tis the King's command, replied Seif-Kan, and I am entrusted to execute it. Sepper-Chekour, who lay in an antichamber of the Tent, waking upon this contest, would have seized upon certain weapons which had been taken from him, with an intention to have assisted his Father; but he was prevented by those that accompanied Seif-Kan. Dara-Cha would have made some resistance himself, but seeing it was in vain, he only desired time for his devotions, which was granted him. In the mean time Sepper-Chekour was taken from him; and while they held him a story, a Slave took off Dara-Cha's. Head, which was carried to Aurengzeb by Seif-Kan. This bloody Tragedy being thus acted, Sepper-Chekour was sent to the Castle of Govaleor, to keep his Uncle Morat-Bakche company. As for the Wives and Daughters of Dara-Cha, they were allotted an Apartment in Aurengzeb's Haram. CHAP. V How Aurengzeb caused himself to be declared King; and of the Flight of Sultan Sujah. AS it is the custom at the performance of that Ceremony, for the new King to seat himself upon the Throne; there was not much time required to prepare one, in regard that Cha-jehan before his imprisonment had finished that which the Great Tamerlane had begun; which was the richest and most magnificent that ever was seen. But as the Grand Cadi of the Empire, and Chief of the Law was to Proclaim the new King, Aurengzeb found himself opposed by him. For the Cadi told him, that the Law of Mahomet and the Law of Nature equally forbade him to declare him King, while his Father lived; besides, that he had put his elder Brother to death, to whom the Empire belonged after the death of Cha-fehan their Father. This stout resistance of the Cadi did not a little perplex Aurengzeb; and therefore that he might not seem to appear irreligious, he called all the Doctors of the Law together, to whom he represented the incapacity of his Father to govern, through age and many infirmities that troubled him; as for Dara-Cha his Brother, he had put him to death, because he was a slighter of the Law, drank Wine, and favoured Infidels. Those reasons, intermixed with threats, caused his Council of Conscience to conclude, that he deserved the Empire, and aught to be proclaimed King; though the Cadi obstinately persisted in his first resolution. There was no other remedy therefore, but to remove him from his employment, as a disturber of the public peace, and to choose another for the Honour of the Law, and the Good of the Kingdom. The person who was elected by the Council was soon confirmed by Aurengzeb; in acknowledgement whereof, he proclaimed him King the twentieth of October, 1660. This Proclamation being made in the Mosque, Aurengzeb seated himself upon the Throne, and received the Homages of all the Grandees of the Kingdom. However, Aurengzeb did not think his Throne fast enough, nor himself secure in the Empire, so long as Sultan Sujah was raising a powerful Army in Bengala to release his Father. Thereupon he sent a considerable Force against him, under the Command of Sultan Mahomed his eldest Son; to whom he appointed for his Lieutenant the Emir-Jemla, one of the greatest Captains that ever came out of Persia into India. His great Conduct and Courage had rendered him a person to be reverenced by all posterity, had he been faithful to the Princes whom he served. But first he betrayed the King of Golconda, under whom he advanced his Fortune; and next to him Cha-jehan, under whose protection he risen so high, that there was not a Nobleman in all India more powerful or richer than he. Otherwise he is both beloved and feared by the Soldiers, and perfectly understands the Art of War, according to the custom of the Country. The two Armies engaging several times, the Victory was sometimes on the one side, and sometimes on the other; so that Sultan Mahomed finding it likely ro be a tedious War, assisted by the Counsels of his Lieutenant, resolved to add policy to strength. Thereupon he treats underhand with the Officers of his Uncle's Army, makes them magnificent promises, and so earnestly solicits them to come over to Aurengzeb's party, whom he called the Pillar and Protector of Mahomet's Law, that he gained the principal, to whom he sent considerable Presents, to confirm them in their resolutions. This was a mortal blow to Sultan-Sujah, against which he could not provide. For they that adhered to him being a mercenary generation, that serves whoever gives most, finding they had little more to expect from a Prince whose Exchequer was empty, resolved to drive a Trade with Aurengzeb, who was Master of all the Treasure in the Kingdom. And thus did Aurengzeb debauch the Army of his Brother, who in the last Battle, seeing himself abandoned by all his Soldiers, was forced to save himself by flight, with his Wives and Children. The Traitor's ashamed of their treachery, did not so smartly pursue the unfortunate Prince as they might have done, but presently fell to plundering his Tents and Baggage; which Emir-Jemla suffered them to do, in recompense of their Treason. Sultan-Sujah in the mean time crossing the Ganges with his Retinue, retired some time afterwards into the Kingdom of Arakan, upon the Confines of Bengala, where we shall leave him for a time. CHAP. VI Of the imprisonment of Sultan-Mahomed, Aurengzeb's eldest son; and of Sultan Soliman Chekour, eldest son of Dara-Cha. THough Aurengzeb were esteemed a very great Politician, and were so indeed, yet he failed in his Politics, to trust his Son with such a powerful Army, under the Conduct of a Captain who had already betrayed two Masters. However at length he began to be jealous, left Heaven should inspire his own Son to revenge the crimes which he had committed. And upon this, receiving intelligence, that Sultan Mahomed began to be very pensive and melancholy, he then absolutely believed that his Son was practising mischief against him; for the better discovery whereof, he wrote to Emir-Jemla. But the Letter unhappily miscarrying, was taken by Sultan Mahomed's Guards, and given to the young Prince; who being a person of a quick apprehension, concealed the business from Emir-Jemla; and fearing left he should receive other Orders more precise to take away his life, he resolved to pass the Ganges, and throw himself upon his Uncle Sultan Sujah; from whom he expected more mercy than from his Father. With this resolution he feigned to go a fishing, and passing the Ganges, with several Officers that adhered to him, he went directly to Sultan Sujahs Camp, which lay on the other side of the River; the Sultan having raised a considerable Force in the Kingdom of Arakan. Sultan Mahomed coming into his Uncle's presence, threw himself at his feet, begging his pardon for having taken Arms against him, as being forced thereto by his Father. Now though Sultan Sujah had reason enough to believe, that Mahomed's coming into his Camp, was only a trick of his Father, to send his Son as a Spy to discover his condition; yet being a virtuous and generous Prince, and seeing his Nephew prostrate at his feet, he could not but raise him up; after which, embracing him, he assured him of his protection against Aurengzeb. Some days after, these two Princes made an attempt, and passing Ganges, and fetching a compass thought to have surprised the Enemy's Army, who dreamt not of their coming. They made a vigorous onset, and killed a great number of men. But when they found the whole Army had taken the Alarm, they contented themselves with the mischief they had done, and repassed the Ganges, for fear of being surrounded by number. Emir-Jemla had already given intelligence to Aurengzeb of the flight of his Son; which sensibly grieved the Father, though he durst not show his anger, for fear of incensing the Emir to betray him, as he had betrayed his Father. Thereupon he cunningly wrote to him, that he relied altogether upon his prudence and policy to retrieve his Son to his duty; that he was young, and that what he had done, was only out his heat of youth, and the inconstancy incident to his years. The confidence which Aurengzeb seemed to put in Emir-Jemla incited the General to use all his endeavours to get Mahomet out of Sultan Sujahs hands. Thereupon he gave the young Prince to understand his Father's good intentions toward him, and that he was ready to receive him with open Arms, so that he would but make good use of his Residence with Sultan Sujah, which he might pretend was done for the advantage to his Father, and for which his Father would have rather cause to extol his prudence and affection than otherwise. The young Prince easily suffered himself to be persuaded, and the same way he went to his Uncle's, the same way he returned to his Father's Camp; where Emir-Jemla received him honourably, and with all the demonstrations of joy. He advised him also, to tell his Father when he saw him, that he did not go over to Sultan Sujah, but only with a design to observe what Forces he had, and the Discipline of his Army; and that he intended to have speedily returned, and to have given him an account of what he had done for his service. Presently Orders came from Aurengzeb, that his Son should be sent to him; so that Mahomed, whether by constraint, or willingly, set forward for Jehanabat, attended by the Guards which Emir-Jemla had appointed. The King having notice of his arrival, his Majesty ordered him a Lodging without the Palace, and would not permit him to kiss his hands; pretending he was not well. All this while Soliman-Chekour, after he had been betrayed by the Raja Roup, had continued under the protection of Nacti-Rani in the Province of Serenaguer. This Prince, as stout as he was unfortunate, was constrained to lead a Savage life among the Mountains, for fear of falling into the hands of Aurengzeb, nor could he with all his Forces do him any harm in that place. Beside Nacti-Rani had assured him with an Oath, accompanied with all the Ceremonies that could make it solemn, and inviolable; that he would rather lose his Territodom, than that Aurengzeb should do the least violence to that protection which he afforded him. This was done upon the Banks of a River, which passes through his Country, where he washed his body, in token of the purity of his Soul; and being thus purified in the Water, he made his protestations to Soliman-Chekour, never to forsake him, taking his Gods to Witness of the sincetity of his intentions. Upon this, Soliman-Chekour never took any farther care, but every day went to divertise himself with hunting. While he gives up himself to his pleasure, Aurengzeb marches his Army toward the Mountains, thinking to force the Nacti-Rani to surrender Soliman-Chekour into his power. But the Raja with a thousand men being able to defend the Avenues of his Country against a hundred thousand, Aurengzeb finding he could do no good that way, has recourse to policy. He undertakes at first to treat with the Raja, but in vain, for the Raja would not violate his Oath; and his Priests assured him besides, that Aurengzeb should e'er long be deposed, and that Soliman Chekour should Reign in his room. Aurengzeb thus prevented, resolves to make another kind of War upon him. Thereupon he forbids all commerce between his and the rajas Subjects; which was very prejudicial to the latter. This caused the people to murmur at the protection which he had given to Soliman-Chekour; and at length they publicly cried out, that it was to the prejudice of the public. Their Priests also, thus alarmed, began to doubt the truth of their Oracles, and to think it convenient to put another interpretation upon them. But the main thing was, that the Raja Jessomseing who had betrayed Dara-Cha, wrote privately to Nacti-Rani, that it was for the safety of his Person and Dominions, to submit to Aurengzeb; and to surrender his kinsman up into his hands. This advice of Jessomseing put him to a very great plunge; dreading on the one side the breach of his oath; on the other, the revolt of his people. Uncertain what course to take, he consults the Bramins, who gave their opinions that it was his duty rather to preserve his People and his Laws, which would be both destroyed, should they fall into the hands of Aurengzeb, than to keep his Faith with a Prince from whom he could never expect any advantage. These consultations being kept private from Soliman Chekour, his ruin was concluded upon, while he thought himself most secure. Thereupon Nacti-Rani, with a Salvo, as he thought, to his Honour and his Conscience, returned for answer to Jessomseing, that he could not consent to betray the Prince; but that Aurengzeb might take his opportunity to seize his person, yet preserve his reputation too: in regard that Soliman Chekour was wont to go a Hunting upon certain Mountains in his Country with a small retinue, and that it would be an easy thing for him to send a number of Soldiers sufficient to apprehend him. So soon as Jessomseing had received this answer, he gave order to his Son to see the business effected as the plot was laid. So that Soliman Chekour one day going a Hunting to the usual place, was snapped by a strong party that lay in Ambuscade. The Prince presently apprehended the treason, and defended himself with the assistance of his Attendants, who were all slain; he himself slew nine, but at length over-numbered, was taken and carried to Jehanabat. When he came into Aurengzeb's presence, the King asked him how he did? As well as a Prisoner of yours can do, said he, who expects no better usage from you, than his Father received before. The King bid him not be afraid, that he had no design to put him to death, but only to secure his person. Aurengzeb after that, demanding of him what was become of all the Treasure which he had carried away, the Prince made answer that he had spent a great part in raising Soldiers against him to have ruined him, if it had been his good fortune: That a good part was in the hands of Raja Roup, whose avarice and perfidiousness was sufficiently known. And that Nacti-Rani had got the remainder to deliver him to his enemies, to the prejudice of his word and honour. Aurengzeb was surprised and touched at the boldness of his Nephew; but ambition shutting his eyes, and stifling all thoughts of justice, which the just remorse of Conscience might excite within him, he gave order that Sultan Mahomet his Son, and Soliman Chekour his Nephew should both be committed to the Fort of Govaleor to keep Morat-Bak-che company, which was done the 30 th' of Jan. 1661. Sultan Sujah, who was yet alive, but still lived miserably, was the last thorn in Aurengzeb's foot; and the person that drew it out for him, and rid him of his last pain, was the King of Arakan, whither the unfortunate Prince was at length forced to retire. Who finding all his hopes to be lost, began to think of a Pilgrimage to Mecca, and from thence to go into Persia, and implore a Sanctuary under the protection of that Prince. To this purpose he thought he might obtain a Vessel from the King of Arakan, or the King of Pegu, to carry him to Mecca: but he was ignorant that neither of those Kings had any Vessels, that would live in the main Ocean. So that he was constrained to stay with the King of Arakan, an Idolater, whose Daughter he desired in Marriage, which the King granted, and by whom he had a Son. But that which ought to have been the greatest occasion of friendship between the Son-in-law and the Father-in-law, was the greatest reason of their hatred and falling-out. For some Lords of the Country, who began to be jealous of Sultan Sujah, buzzed the King of Arakan in the ear, as if he had an intention by virtue of his Marriage, to dispossess him of his Throne, and to leave it to his own Son. The Pagan King easily believed what they said. Nor were these suspicions ill-grounded; for Sultan Sujah having good store of Gold and Jewels, easily corrupted several Mahometans that lived in the Kingdom of Arakan, and with those and about two-hundered men more that had followed him after the rout of his Army, he undertook a most bold enterprise, which was yet a mark rather of despair than courage. He appointed a day to those of his party to force the Palace, and after they had put all the Royal Family to the Sword, to proclaim him King of Arakan. But this Plot being discovered the day it should have been executed, Sultan Sujah, and Sultan Bangue, his Son, had no other way to save themselves, but by flight into the Kingdom of Pegu. But their way lying over Mountains almost impassable, and through thick Forests full of Tigers and Lions, and being also closely pursued, their flight availed them little or nothing. Sultan Bangue however being behind, to keep the Pursuers in play while his Father and his Family gained ground, stoutly defended himself against the first Assailants, but at length being overpowered by number, he was taken together with his two little Brothers, his Mother and his Sisters; who were all put in Prison, where they were very ill-used. But some time after, the King having a desire to marry the eldest Sister of Sultan Bangue, they had a little more liberty allowed them. However they enjoyed it not long, for the young Prince being of a turbulent and ambitious spirit, plotted new treasons against the King, which being discovered, the King immediately caused the whole Family to be put to death, not sparing the young Princess his Wife, though she were big with Child. As for Sultan Sujah, who was foremost among those that fled, it is most generally thought that either he was slain by the Soldiers who were sent to apprehend him, or that he was torn in pieces by the Tigers and Lions; of which those Forests are full. CHAP. VII. Of the beginning of Aurengzeb's Reign, and the Death of Cha-jehan his Father. SOme days before he ascended the Throne, he sent to his Father to send him some of his Jewels, to the end he might appear before his people with the same magnificence as his Predecessors had done. Cha-jehan taking this request of his Sons for an affront put upon him in Prison, fell into such a rage that he continued mad for some days, and had like to have died upon it. In the excess of his vexation he called several times for a Mortar and a Pestle, threatening to beat all his Jewels to powder, before his Son should have them. But Begum-Saheb, his eldest Daughter, never forsook him, throwing herself at his feet, and by virtue of that criminal power which she had over him, as being both his Daughter and his Wife, kept him from using that extremity; more out of a design to preserve the Jewels for herself, than for her Brother, to whom she had always been a mortal enemy. For this reason, when Aurengzeb ascended the Throne, he had no more than one Jewel upon his Bonnet: This Bonnet cannot be called a Crown; and by consequence neither can the Ceremony be called a Coronation. At the time that Aurengzeb took possession of the Throne, he would not eat any wheaten-bread, nor meat, nor fish, but fed upon barley-bread, herbs and sweetmeats, which was a kind of Penance that he imposed upon himself for so many crimes. When Aurengzeb was settled in the Empire, several Ambassadors came to Jehanabat to congratulate him, on the behalf of the Kings their Masters, as from the King of the Usbeck Tartars, the Sheriff of Mecca, the Prince of Balsara, and the Kings of Arabia Felix, and Ethiopia. The Hollanders also sent Menheir Adrican, chief of their Factory in Surat, who was kindly received, and first dispatched. For 'tis a piece of State, to keep the Ambassadors a good while at Court before they have Audience. All these Ambassadors presented Aurengzeb with the rarities of their Country; who to get himself a good name in Asia, sent them away very well satisfied. Some months before the death of Cha-jehan, Aurengzeb sent an Ambassador into Persia, who was magnificently received. For a month together he was nothing but feasted and caressed with all manner of divertisements. The day that he was to make his Present from the Great Mogul, the King of Persia sat upon his Throne in a most magnificent habit; and having received the Embassador's Present, he presently divided it in contempt among the Officers of his House; only keeping for himself a Diamond that weighed sixty Carats. Some few days after he called for the Ambassador, and after some discourse, he asked him if he were of the Sect of the Turks? To which the Ambassador returning an answer, and letting some words fall against Haly, the King asked him what his name was.? He replied that Cha-jehan had given him the Name of Baubec-kan, that is, Lord of a free heart; and had honoured him with one of the chief employments at Court. Then thou'rt a Villain, replied the King of Persia, with an angry countenance, to desert thy Sovereign in his necessity, having received so many favours from him, and to serve a Tyrant, that keeps his Father in Prison, and has massacred all his Brothers. How dares he, pursued the King, take upon him the arrogant Title of Alem-guir Aureng-sha, or King of all the World, who never conquered any thing, but possesses all he has by treachery and parricide? Hast thou been one of those that counselled him to shed so much blood, to be the Executioner of his Brothers, and to keep his Father in Prison? Thou art not worthy to wear a Beard; and with that immediately caused it to be shaved off; which is the greatest indignity that can be put upon a man in that Country. Shortly after he commanded the Ambassador to return home, sending along with him for a Present to Aurengzeb, an hundred and fifty beautiful Horses, with a great quantity of Gold and Silver-Carpets, Cloth of Gold, rich Sashes, and other Stuffs, to a vast value. When Baubec-kan was come back to Agra, where the King then was, Aurengzeb incensed at the affront which the Sophi of Persia had given him in the person of his Ambassador, he took the Horses and sent some of them into the great Piazza, others to the corners of the Streets, causing it to be proclaimed that the followers of Haly could not ride those Horses without being Nigsses, that is to say, unclean, as coming from a King that did not obey the true Law. After that he caused the Horses to be killed, and all the rest of the Present to be burnt; uttering many reproachful words against the King of Persia, with whom he was mortally offended. At length Cha-jehan happening to die toward the end of the year 1666. Aurengzeb found himself rid of an object that every hour reproached his Tyranny; and began to enjoy himself with more delight. Soon after he received his Sister Begum-Saheb into favour, restoring to her all her Governments, and giving her the Name of Cha-Begum, that is to say, Princess Queen. The truth is, she is a Woman of prodigious parts, and able to govern the whole Empire. And had her Father and Brothers taken her counsel at the beginning of the War, Aurengzeb had never been King. As for Rauchenara Begum his Sister, she had always taken his side, and when she heard he had taken Arms, she sent him all the Gold and Silver she could procure. In recompense whereof he promised her, when he came to be King, to give her the Title of Cha-Begum, and that she should sit upon a Throne: in all which he was as good as his word; and they continued very loving together till I was last at Genanabat: but then they were not so good friends, upon this occasion. The Princess having cunningly stolen into her Apartment a handsome young fellow, could not so privately let him out again after she had quite tired him; but the King was advertized thereof. Thereupon the Princess, to prevent the shame and reproach, ran to the King in a great pretended fright, and told him that there was a man got into the Haram, even to her very Chamber, and that his intention was certainly either to have killed or robbed her: that such a thing was never seen; that it concerned the safety of his Royal Person, and that he would do well to punish severely the Eunuches that kept guard that night. Presently the King ran in person with a great number of Eunuches, so that the poor young man had no way to escape but by leaping out of a window into the River that runs by the Palace-walls; whereupon a world of people ran out to seize him; the King commanding them to do him no harm, but to carry him to the Officer of Justice: However he has been not heard of ever since that time. CHAP. VIII. Of the Preparations against the Feast of the Great Mogul, when he is weighed solemnly every year. Of the richness of his Thrones, and the Magnificence of his Court. THis great Feast gins the fourth of November, and lasts five days. They usually weigh the King at the time of his Birth; and if he weighs more than he did the year before, there is great rejoicing. When he is weighed he seats himself upon the richest of his Thrones; and then all the Grandees of the Kingdom come to congratulate and present him. The Ladies of the Court send him their Presents also, as likewise do the Governors of Provinces, and others in great Employments. The Presents consist of Jewels, Tissues, Carpets and other Stuffs; besides Camels, Elephants, Horses, and indeed any thing that is rare and of value. 'Tis said he receives that day thirty Millions of Livres. They begin to prepare for this Feast the seventh of September, about two Months before it gins. The first thing they do, is to cover the two great Courts overhead, from the middle of each Court to the Hall, which is open upon three sides. The Pavilions that cover these two void places, are of Purple Velvet, Embroidered with Gold, and so weighty, that the Posts which sustain them are as big as the Mast of a Ship; some thirty, some forty foot high. There are thirty-eight of these Posts to uphold the Tent in the first Court; and those next the Hall, are plated with Gold as thick as a Ducat. The rest are plated with Silver of the same thickness. The Cords are of Cotton of divers colours; some of them as big as a good Cable. The first Court is surrounded with Porticoes and little Chambers, where the Omrahs' keep Guard. For every eight days the Omrahs' relieve the Guard; and during those eight days, the Omrah who is upon the Guard, has a Dish of Meat out of the Kings Kitchin. When he sees it coming afar off, he makes three obeisances, laying his hand three times upon the Ground, and three times upon his Head, crying out at the same time, God preserve the King's health, give him long Life and Victory over his Enemies. They take it for a great Honour to Guard the King; and when they go upon the Guard, they put on all their most sumptuous Apparel; and their Horses, Camels, and Elephants are all richly adorned. Some of the Camels carry a small Piece of Ordinance, with a man behind to shoot it off. The meanest of these Omrahs' commands a thousand Horse; but if he be a Prince of the Blood, he commands six thousand. The Great Mogul has seven Thrones, some set all over with Diamonds; others with Rubies, Emeralds, and Pearls. The largest Throne, which is set up in the Hall of the first Court, is in form like one of our Field-Beds, six foot long, and four broad. The Cushion at the back is round like a Bolster; the Cushions on the sides are flat. I counted about a hundred and eight pale Rubies in Collets, about this Throne, the least whereof weighed a hundred Carats; but there are some that weigh two hundred. Emeralds I counted about a hundred and sixty, that weighed some threescore, some thirty Carats. The underpart of the Canopy is all embroidered with Pearls and Diamonds, with a Fringe of Pearls round about. Upon the top of the Canopy, which is made like an Arch with four Panes, stands a Peacock, with his Tail spread, consisting all of Saphires, and other proper coloured Stones; the Body is of beaten Gold, enchased with several Jewels; and a great Ruby upon his breast, at which hangs a Pearl, that weighs fifty Carats. On each side of the Peacock stand two Nosegays, as high as the Bird, consisting of several sorts of Flowers, all of beaten Gold enamelled. When the King seats himself upon the Throne, there is a transparent Jewel, with a Diamond Appendent, of eighty or ninety Carats, encompassed with Rubies and Emeralds, so hung that it is always in his Eye. The twelve Pillars also that uphold the Canopy, are set with rows of fair Pearl, round, and of an excellent Water, that weigh from six to ten Carats apiece. At the distance of four feet, upon each side of the Throne, are placed two Parasols, or Umbrello's, the handles whereof are about eight foot high, covered with Diamonds; the Parasols themselves are of crimson Velvet, embroidered and fringed with Pearls. This is the famous Throne which Tamerlane began, and Cha-jehan finished; which is really reported to have cost a hundred and sixty Millions, and five hundred-thousand Livres of our Money. Behind this stately and magnificent Throne there is another less, in the form of a Tub, where the King baths himself; it is an Oval, seven foot long, and five broad. The outside whereof shines all over with Diamonds and Pearls; but there is no Canopy over it. Coming into the first Court, on the right hand, you see a particular Tent, where during all the Feast, the Morris-dancers are appointed to make sport, while the King sits upon his Throne. On the left hand is another Tent, appointed for the principal Officers of the Army and Household. In the same Court, while the King sits upon his Throne, are to be seen thirty Horses, fifteen upon one side, and fifteen upon the other, lead by two men. Their Bridles are very short, but for the most part enriched with Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, and Pearls, the Bits whereof are of pure Gold. Every Horse wears between his Ears a rich Plume of Feathers, with a little Cushion upon his Back, tied on with a Surcingle; both being embroidered with Gold; and about his Neck hung some fair Jewel, which was either a Diamond, a Ruby, or an Emerald. The worst of those Horses cost three thousand, some five thousand Crowns; and some there were, that were never bought under ten thousand. The young Prince, who was between seven and eight years old, road upon a Horse no higher than a good big Greyhound, but very well shaped. About an hour after the King has been sitting upon his Throne, seven stout Elephants bred up for War, are brought out. One of those Elephants has his Seat fixed upon his back, if the King should have a mind to ride out. The others are covered with clothes richly embroidered, with Chains of Gold and Silver about their Necks; and there are four that carry the King's Standard upon their Cruppers, fastened to a Half-Pike, which a man seated on purpose close by, holds upright with his hand. These Elephants are brought within fifty paces of the Throne, and when they come before the King, they make their obeisances to him, laying their Trunks to the ground, and then lifting them up above their Heads three times; every time he makes a great cry, and then turning his back to the King, one of the Leaders turns up the Cloth, that the King may see he is in good case. There belongs also to every one a Cord, which is put round his body, to show how much he is grown since the last year. The first of these Elephants, which the King most esteems, is a great furious Creature, that has five hundred Roupies allowed him every month. He is fed with good Victuals, and a great quantity of Sucre, and they give him Aquavitae to drink. When the King rides forth upon his Elephant, the Omrahs' follow on Horseback. And when he rides on Horseback, the Omrahs' follow him on foot. After the King has seen his Elephants, he rises up, and goes into his Haram through a little oval door behind the Throne. The five other Thrones are set up in another magnificent Hall in another Court, all covered over with Diamonds, without any coloured Stone. When the King has stayed about half an hour, he comes out again, attended by three or four Eunuches, and seats himself in the other Hall, upon the middlemost of the five Thrones, where the Omrahs' come, as long as the five days of the Festival last, and make their Presents to him. CHAP. IX. Some other Observations upon the Court of the Great Mogul. AFter Aurengzeb had settled himself in the Empire, which he usurped from his Father and his Brothers, he imposed upon himself a very severe penance, eating nothing but Pulse and Sweetmeats, which has made him very meager and lean. All the time the Comet lasted in the year 1665, which appeared very great in the Indies, where I than was, Aurengzeb drank nothing but Water, and eat nothing but Bread made of Millet; which so impaired his health, that it had like to have cost him his life. Besides, he always lay upon the ground, only with a Tiger's Skin under him; since which time he has never been perfectly well. I saw him drink three several times, while he sat upon his throne; to which purpose he had brought him a large Cup of Crystal of the Rock, round and all of a piece, with a Gold Cover, enriched with Diamonds, Rubies, and Emeralds, the foot thereof being of the same. But no person sees the King eat, only his Wives and his Eunuches. And it is but very rarely that he goes to Dine or Sup with any of his Subjects. When I was last in India, Giafer-Kan, who was his Grand Visier, and his Uncle by marriage of his wife, invited the King to see a new Palace which he was building, who went accordingly, and it was the greatest Honour his Majesty could do him; in retaliation whereof, Giafer-Kan and his Wife presented him with Jewels, Elephants, Camels, Horses, and other things, to the value of a Million and fifty thousand Livres of our Money. For Giafer-Kan's Wife is the most magnificent and liberal Woman in all India, and spends more herself than all the King's Wives and Daughters, which makes her Husband in debt, though he be almost Lord of all the Empire. When the King is carried in his Palleki to the Mosque, one of his Sons follows him a Horseback, and all his Omrahs' and Officers of his Household come behind him a foot. Those that are Mahometans stay for him at the top of the ascent to the Mosque, and when he is ready to come out, they march before him to the Gate of his Palace. Eight Elephants always go before the King, to every one of which belong two men; one to lead the Elephant, and the other, who sits upon his back, carries a Standard fixed to a Half-Pike. The other four carry Seats or Thrones upon their backs, the one square, the other round; one covered, the other enclosed with Glass of several fashions. When the King goes abroad, he has usually five or six hundred men to attend him for his Guard, armed every one with a kind of an Half-Pike. To the heads of their Pikes they tie two Squibs cross-wife, about a foot long, and as big as a man's Arm, which will carry the Half-Pike five hundred paces. The King is also attended by three or four hundred Musketeers; but they are very Cowards, and hardly know how to shoot off their pieces. He has also a certain number of Cavalry, which are Soldiers much alike. A hundred Europeans might well beat a thousand Indians; but they would hardly accustom themselves to live such sober lives. For as well the Horse as the Infantry will live upon Meal kneaded with Water and brown Sugar; but in the evening, when they have convenience, they make Quichery, which is Rice boiled in Water and Salt, with a Grain so called. When they eat it, they stir it with the ends of their Fingers in melted Butter, which is the usual food of the Soldiers and poor people. Beside, the heat would kill our Soldiers, who would never be able to endure the Sun all the day long, as the Indians do. By the way, give me leave to tell you, that the Country people have no other clothing than a piece of Linen to hid their secret parts, being miserably poor; for if their Governors know they have any thing about them, they seize it either as their right, or by force. There are some Provinces in India that lie waste, the Natives being forced to fly, by reason of the cruelty of their Governors. Under the pretence of being Mahumetans they persecute the poor Idolaters beyond all measure; and if any of them embrace Mahumetism, 'tis only because they would not work any longer. For than they turn Soldiers or Faquirs, who are a sort of people that profess a renunciation of the World, and live upon Alms, but are indeed very Rascals. They reckon that there are in India 800000 of these Mahometan Faquirs, and twelve hundred thousand Idolaters. Once in fifteen days the King goes a Hunting, mounted upon his Elephant, and so continues during the chase. All the Game he takes is brought within Musket-shot of his Elephants. Which consists generally of Lions, Tigers, Hearts, and wild-Goats. For they will not meddle with Boars, as being Mahumetans. When he returns home he puts himself into his Palleki, and goes in the same order, and with the same Guard, as when he returns from the Mosque, saving that when he goes a Hunting, he is attended with three or fourhundered Horsemen, that ride without any discipline in the World. As for the Princesses, as well the Wives, Daughters and Sisters of the King, they never stir out of the Palace, unless it be to spend a few days in the Country for their pleasure. Some of them go abroad, but very rarely, to visit some great Nobleman's Wives, as the Wife of Giafer-Kan, who is the King's Aunt. But that is only by particular leave of the King. And then it is not the custom as in Persia, where the Ladies make their visits only by night, and with a great number of Eunuches, who clear the Streets of all people they meet. For in the Mogul's Court, they usually go out about nine in the morning, with only three or four Eunuches, and ten or twelve Slaves, which are instead of Maids of Honour. The Princesses are carried in Palleki's covered over with Embroidered Tapestry, and a little Coach to hold one single person that follows the Palleki, drawn by two men, the wheels not being above a foot in diameter. The reason why they carry that Coach along with them, is, because that when the Princesses arrive at the House where they intent to alight, the men that carry the Palleki, not being permitted to go any farther than the first Gate, they then take their Coaches, and are drawn by their female-Slaves to the women's Apartment. I have also observed, that in all the Houses of great Noblemen, the women's Apartment is at the farther-end of all. So that you must cross two or three great Courts, and a Garden or two, before you can come as it. When the Princesses are married to any of the Court-Grandees, they become absolute Mistresses of their Husbands; so that if they study not to please them, and do not as they would have them, in regard of their free access to the King, they overrule the King many times to their prejudice, even to the turning them out of their employments. As it is a custom that the firstborn always is Heir to the Throne, though he be the Son of a Slave, so soon as the Princesses of the King's Haram perceive that there is any one among them big with Child, they use all the artifices imaginable to make them miscarry. Insomuch that being at Patna in the year 1666, Cha-Est-Kan's Chirurgeon assured me, that the Wife of Cha-Est-Kan had procured the miscarrying of eight Women, because she would suffer no other women's Children but her own. CHAP. X. Of the Commodities which are brought as well out of the Dominions of the Great Mogul, as out of the Kingdoms of Golconda and Visapour, and other neighbouring Territories. IT will be necessary for the Reader to take notice what I have already said concerning the Weights and Measures in use among the Indians, where I spoke concerning the Mines, and the Serre. Now for the Cobit. The Cobit is a measure for all Commodities that are measured by the Ell, of which there are several sorts, as in Europe there are several sorts of Ells. The Cobit is divided into 24 Tasots: and in regard the greatest part of the Commodities of India are uttered at Surat, I have given you a description in the margin of the fourth part of a Surat-Cobit, divided into six Tasots. Of their Silk. KAsembasar, a Village in the Kingdom of Bengala, sends abroad every year two and twenty-thousand Bales of Silk; every Bale weighing a hundred pound. The two and twenty Bales make two millions and two-hunder'd-thousand pound, at sixteen ounces to the pound. The Hollanders usually carry away six or seven-thousand Bales, and would carry away more, did not the Merchants of Tartary, and the Mogul's Empire oppose them: for they buy up as much as the Hollander; the rest the Natives keep to make their Stuffs. This Silk is all brought into the Kingdom of Guzerat, the greatest part whereof comes to Amadabat, and to Surat, where it is wrought up. In the first place they make Carpets of Silk and Gold, others of Silk and Silver, others all of Silk: For the Worsted Carpets are made at Vettapour, some twelve leagues from Agra. In the second place they make Satins with streaks of Gold and Silver; others plain: with Taffatas after the same fashion. In the third place they make Patoles, which are a fort of Silk-stuff very thin, but painted with all sorts of Flowers, the manufacture whereof is at Amadabat. They cost from eight Roupies to forty the piece. This is a Commodity wherein the Dutch will not suffer any one of the Hollanders to trade in particular: for they transport it to the Philippine-Islands, to the Islands of Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and other neighbouring Islands. The raw-Silk of Kasembasar is yellowish, as are all the raw-Silks that come from Persia and Sicily; but the Natives of Kasembasar have a way to whiten it, with a Lie made of the ashes of a Tree which they call Adam's Figtree; which makes it as white as the Palestine-Silk. The Hollanders send away all their Merchandise which they fetch out of Bengala, by water, through a great Canal that runs from Kasembasar into Ganges, for fifteen leagues together; from whence it is as far by water down the Ganges to Ouguely, where they lad their Ships. Of the Calicuts: and first of the painted Calicuts, called Chites. CHites or Painted Calicuts, which they call Calmendar, that is to say, done with a Pencil, are made in the Kingdom of Golconda; and particularly about Maslipatan. But there is made so little, that though a man should employ all the Workmen that understand the art of weaving Calicuts, he would hardly find enough to make three Bales. The Chites which are made in the Empire of the Great Mogul are all Printed; and nothing so beautiful, neither for the figures nor the fineness of the Linen. Those which are made at Lahor, are the coarsest, and consequently the cheapest of all. They are sold by Corges, every Corge consisting of twenty pieces, which cost from 16 to 30 Roupies. The Chites which are made at Seronge, are sold from 20 to 50 Roupies the Corge, or thereabouts. These Chites serve for Coverlets for Beds, for Sofra's or Tablecloths after the Country-fashion, Pillowbears, Handkerchiefs, but more especially for Waistcoats as well for the men as women in Persia. The fine Calicut- Chites are made at Brampour; and are used for handkerchiefs by those that snuff Tobacco. The women also, over all Asia, make Veils of these Calicuts, to wear over their heads, and about their shoulders, which Veils are called Ormis. The Basta's or Calicuts painted red, blue, and black, are carried white to Agra, and Amadabat, in regard those Cities are nearest to the places where the Indigo is made that is used in colouring. They cost from two Roupies to 30 or 40 apiece, according to the fineness and the quantity of Gold at the ends, and sometimes upon the sides. The Indians have a way to dip some of these Calicuts in a certain water that makes them look like Watered-chamlets, which adds also to the price. That sort which is sold for two Roupies, and so onward till ye come to twelve, is transported to the Coast of Melinda, and it is the greatest Trade the Governor of Mozambique drives, who sells them to the Cafres', that vend them again among the Abyssins', and into the Kingdom of Saba: for those people not understanding the use of Soap, need no more but only to wash these Calicuts in water. That sort which is valued from 12 Roupies upward, is transported to the Philippine-Islands, the Islands of Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and other adjacent places. Where the women wear no other clothes, than a single piece of this Calicut. One part whereof, without cutting it, serves for a Petticoat; the other they wind about their stomaches and their heads. White Calicuts. White Calicuts come partly from Agra, and about Lahor, part from Bengala: some from Brouda, Baroche, Renonsari, and other places. They are brought out of the Loom to Renonsari, and Baroche, where they are whitened by reason of the convenience of their Meadows, and the great store of Lemons that grow thereabouts. For the Calicuts are never so white as they should be, till they are dipped in Limon-water. The Calicuts that come from Agra, Lahor, and Bengala, are sold by the Courge, and they are of several prices, from seventeen Roupies to three or fourhundered, as the Merchant will have them woven. The Calicuts that come from Renonsari, and Baroche, are one and twenty cubits long, new out of the Loom; but in the whitening they shrink to twenty cubits. Those of Brouda twenty cubits from the Loom, and shrink in the whitening to nineteen and a half. All the Calicuts or Basta's that come from these three Cities, are of two sorts: for some are broad, some are narrow. The narrow are those I have already mentioned, the prices whereof are various, from two Mamoudi's to six. The broad Basta's are a cubit, and one third part wide; the whole piece twenty cubits long. The usual price of them is from five Mamoudi's to twelve: but a Merchant being upon the place, may cause them to be made much more large and fine, till they are worth five-hundred Mamoudi's apiece. I saw two pieces sold for a thousand Mamoudi's. The English bought one, and the Hollanders another, each piece containing eight and twenty cubits. Mahamed Alibeg returning into Persia out of India where he had been Ambassador, presented Cha-Sef the second with a Cocoanut, about the bigness of an Ostrich-egg, all beset with Pearls: and when it was opened there was taken out of it a Turban that had sixty cubits of Calicut in length to make it, the Cloth being so fine, that you could hardly feel it in your hand. For they will spin their thread so fine, that the eye can hardly discern it, or at least it seems to be but a Cobweb. Twisted-Cotton. COtton twisted and untwisted comes from the Provinces of Brampour and Guzerat. Untwisted Cotton is never transported into Europe, being too cumbersome, and of little value; only they send it to Ormus, Balsara, and sometimes to the Philippine-Islands, and the Islands of Sinde. As for the twisted Cottons, the English and Hollanders transport a good quantity, not of the finest, but of that sort which is prized from fifteen to fifty Mamouds: It serves for week for Caudles, for Packsaddles, and for the ground of Silk-stuffs. Indigo. INdigo comes from several parts of the Great Mogul's Empire; and according to the diversity of the places it differs in quality, and consequently in price. In the first place, it comes from the Territories of Biana, Indova, and Corsa, a day or two's journey from Agra: which is esteemed the best of all. It is made also eight days journey from Surat, in a Village called Sarquess, two leagues distance from Amadabat. Here the flat Indigo is made. There is also Indigo little inferior in goodness and price, which comes from the King of Golconda's Territories. The Mein of Surat, which contains 42 Serre's, or 34 and a half of our pounds, is valued from 15 to 20 Roupies. They make as good as this at Baroche. That which is made up about Agra is made up in half Balls, and is the most sought for in all India. It is sold by the Mein, which is those places contains 60 Serres, or 51 and three quarters of our pounds. The usual price is from 36 to 40 Roupies. There grows also Indigo some 36 leagues from Brampour, about a great Village called Raout, and round about the neighbouring Towns in the road to Surat: Of which the Natives usually make above a hunder'd-thousand Roupies. There comes Indigo also from Bengala, which the Holland-Company transports for Maslipatan. But they buy this Indigo, and that of Brampour and Amadabat, cheaper by 24 in the hundred, than that of Agra. Indigo is made of an Herb which they sow every year after the rains are over: which when it is grown up, is very like our Hemp. They cut it three times a year; first when it is about two or three foot high; and they cut it within half a foot of the ground; the first cutting far exceeds the two latter. The second cutting is worse than the first by ten or twelve in the hundred, and the third worse than the second by twelve in the hundred. The difference is found by breaking a piece of the Paste, and observing the colour. The colour of that Indigo which is made of the first cutting, is a Violet-blue, but more brisk and lively than the two others: and that which is made of the second is more lively than the third. When they have cut the Herb, they throw it into Pits which they make with Lime, which becomes so hard, that you would judge it to be one entire piece of Marble. They are generally fourscore or a hundred paces in circuit; and being half full of water, they fill them quite up with the Herb. Then they bruise and jumble it in the water till the leaf, for the stalk is worth nothing, become like a kind of thick mud. This being done, they let it settle for some days; and when the settling is all at the bottom, and the water clear above, they let out all the water. When the water is all drained out, they fill several baskets with this slime, and in a plain Field you shall see several men at work, every one at his own basket, making up little pieces of Indigo flat at the bottom, at the top sharp like an egg. Though at Amadabat they make their pieces quite flat like a small cake. Here you are to take particular notice, that the Merchants, because they would not pay custom for an unnecessary weight, before they transport their Indigo out of Asia into Europe, are very careful to cause it to be sifted, to separate the dust from it; which they sell afterwards to the Natives of the Country to die their Calicuts. They that sift this Indigo must be careful to keep a Linen-cloth before their faces, and that their nostrils be well-stopped, leaving only two little holes for their eyes. Besides, they must every half hour be sure to drink milk, which is a great preservative against the piercing quality of the dust. Yet notwithstanding all this caution, they that have sifted Indigo for nine or ten days, shall spit nothing but blue for a good while together. Once I laid an Egg in the morning among the sisters, and when I came to break it in the evening it was all blue within. As they take the Paste out of the Baskets with their Fingers dipped in Oil, and make it into Lumps, or Cakes they lay them in the Sun to dry. Which is the reason that when the Merchants buy Indigo, they burn some pieces of it, to try whether there be any dust among it. For the Natives who take the Paste out of the Baskets to make it into Lumps, lay it in the Sand, which mixes with the Paste, and fouls it. But when the Merchants burn it, the Indigo turns to Ashes, and the Sand remains. The Governors do what they can to make the Natives leave their Knavery; but notwithstanding all their care, there will be some deceit. Salt-Peter. GReat store of Salt-Peter comes from Agra and Patna; but the refined costs three times more than that which is not. The Hollanders have set up a Warehouse fourteen Leagues above Patna, and when their Salt-Peter is refined, they transport it by Water by Ogueli. A Mein of refined Salt-Peter is worth seven Mamoudi's. Spice. CArdamom, Ginger, Pepper, Nutmegs, Nutmeg-Flowers, Cloves and Cinnamon, are all the different sorts of Spices known to us. I put Cardamom and Ginger in the first place, because that Cardamom grows in the Territories of Visapour, and Ginger in the Dominions of the Great Mogul. And as for other Spices, they are brought from other Foreign parts to Surat, which is the grand Mart. Cardamom is the most excellent of all other Spices, but it is very scarce; and in regard there is no great store in the place where it grows, it is only made use of in Asia, at the Tables of great Princes. Five hundred pound of Cardamons, are prized from a hundred to a hundred and ten Reals. Ginger is brought in great quantities from Amadabat, where there grows more than in any other part of Asia; and it is hardly to be imagined how much there is transported candited into Foreign parts. Pepper is of two sorts. There is a sort which is very small, another sort much bigger; both which sorts are distinguished into small and great Pepper. The larger sort comes from the Coast of Malavare; and Tuticorin and Calicut are the Cities where it is brought up. Some of this Pepper comes from the Territories of the King of Visapour, being vended at Rejapour, a little City in that Kingdom. The Hollanders that purchase it of the Malavares, do not give Money for it, but several sorts of Commodities in Exchange; as Cotton, Opium, vermilion, and Quicksilver; and this is the Pepper which is brought into Europe. As for the little Pepper that comes from Bantam, Afchen, and some other parts toward the East, there is none of it carried out of Asia, where it is spent in vast quantities, especially among the Mahometans. For there are double the Grains of small Pepper in one pound, to what there are of the great Pepper; besides that the great Pepper is hotter in the mouth. The little Pepper that comes to Surat, has been sold some years for thirteen or fourteen Mamoudi's the Mein; and so much I have seen the English give for it, to transport it to Ormus, Balsara, and the Red Sea. As for the great Pepper which the Hollanders fetch from the Coast of Malavare, five hundred pound in truck brings them in not above thirty-eight Reals; but by the Commodities which they give in Barter, they gain Cent. per Cent. The Nutmeg, the Nutmeg-flower, the Clove, and Cinnamon, are the only Spices which the Hollanders have in their own hands. The three first come from the Molucca Islands; the fourth, which is Cinnamon, from the Island of Ceylan. 'Tis observable of the Nutmeg, that the Tree which bears it is never planted, which has been confirmed to me by several persons that have lived several years in the Country. They related to me, that the Nutmeg being ripe, several Birds come from the Islands toward the South, and devour it whole, but are forced to throw it up again before it be digested. The Nutmeg then besmeared with a viscous matter, falling to the ground takes root, and produces a Tree, which would never thrive were it planted. This puts me in mind of making one observation upon the Birds of Paradise. These Birds being very greedy after Nutmegs, come in flights to gorge themselves with the pleasing Spice; at the season, like Felfares in Vintage time; but the strength of the Nutmeg so intoxicate them, that they fall dead drunk to the Earth, where the Emmets in a short time eat off their Legs. Hence it comes, that the Birds of Paradise are said to have no Feet; which is not true however, for I have seen three or four that had Feet; and a French Merchant sent one from Aleppo as a Present to Lewis the Thirteenth that had Feet; of which the King made great account, as being a very lovely Fowl. But notwithstanding all the Hollanders Projects, you may buy Cloves at Macassar without purchasing them of the Hollander; in regard the Islanders buy them of the Dutch Captains and Soldiers, which the Hollanders have in those place where the Cloves grow, giving them in exchange Rice, and other necessaries for the support of life, without which they would starve, being very sadly provided for. When the Natives of Macassar are thus furnished of Cloves, they barter them in Exchange for such Comedies as are brought them; sometimes they give Tortoise-Shells in exchange, and Gold Dust; by which the Merchant gains six or seven in the hundred, being better than the Money of the Island, though it be Gold, by reason the King ofttimes enhances the value of it. The places where Cloves grow, are Amboyna, Ellias, Seram, and Bouro. The Islands of Banda also, in number six, viz. Nero, Lontour, Poulcay, Roseguin, and Grenapuis, bear Nutmegs in great abundance. The Island of Grenapuis is about six Leagues in compass, and ends in a sharp point, where there is a continual fire burning out of the Earth. The Island Dam, where there grows great store of Nutmegs, and very big, was discovered in the year 1647, by Abel Tasman, a Dutch Commander. The price of Cloves and Nutmegs, as I have known them sold to the Hollanders at Surat, was as follows. The Mein of Surat contains forty Serres, which make thirty-four of our Pounds, at sixteen Ounces to the Pound. A Mein of Cloves was sold for a hundred and three Mamoudi's and a half. A Mein of Mace was sold for a hundred and fifty-seven Mamoudi's and a half. Nutmegs for fifty-six Mamoudi's and a half. Cinnamon comes at present from the Island of Ceylan. The Tree that bears it is very much like the Willow, and has three Barks. They never take off but the first and second, which is accounted the best. They never meddle with the third, for should the Knife enter that, the Tree would die. So that it is an art to take off the Cinnamon, which they learn from their youth. The Cinnamon Spice is much dearer to the Hollanders than people think; for the King of Ceylan, otherwise called King of Candy, from the name of his principal City, being a sworn Enemy to the Hollanders, sends his Forces with an intention to surprise them, when they gather their Cinnamon; so that they are forced to bring seven or eight hundred men together to defend as many more that are at work. Which great expense of theirs very much enhances the price of the Cinnamon. There grows upon the Cinnamon Tree a certain fruit like an Olive, though not to be eaten. This the Portugals were wont to put into a Cauldron of Water, together with the tops of the Branches, and boiled it till the Water was all consumed. When it was cold, the upper part became a Paste like white Wax; of which they made Tapers to set up in their Churches, for no sooner were the Tapers lighted, but all the Church was perfumed. Formerly the Portugal's brought Cinnamon out of other Countries, belonging to the rajas about Cochin. But the Hollanders have destroyed all those places, so that the Cinnamon is now in their hands. When the Portugals had that Coast, the English bought their Cinnamon of them, and usually paid for it by the Mein fifty Mamoudi's. Drugs that are brought to Surat, and brought from other Countries, with the price of every one by the Mein. Salt ammoniac, according to the usual price, costs by the Mein twenty Mamoudi's. Borax, comes unrefined from Amadabat, as does Salt ammoniac, and costs by the Mein thirtyfive Mamoudi's. Gum-Lack, seven Mamoudi's and a half. Gum-Lack washed, ten Mamoudi's. Gum-Lack in sticks of Wax, forty Mamoudi's. There are some of these Sticks that cost fifty or sixty Mamoudi's the Mein, and more when they mix Musk in the Gum. Saffron of Surat, which is good for nothing but for colouring, four Mamoudi's and a half. Cumin White, eight Mamoudi's. Cumin Black, three Mamoudi's. Arlet small, three Mamoudi's. Frankincense, that comes from the Coast of Arabia, three Mamoudi's. Myrrh, that which is good, called Mirra Gilet, thirty Mamoudi's. Myrrh Bolti, which comes from Arabia, fifteen Mamoudi's. Cassia, two Mamoudi's. Sugar Candy, eighteen Mamoudi's. Asutinat, a sort of Grain, very hot, one Mamoudi. Aniseed Gross, three Mamoudi's and a half. Aniseed small and hot, one Mamoudi and a half. Oupelote, a Root, fourteen Mamoudi's. Cointre, five Mamoudi's. Auzerout, from Persia, a hundred and twenty Mamoudi's. Aloes Succotrine, from Arabia, twenty eight Mamoudi's. Licorice, four Mamoudi's. Lignum Aloes, in great pieces, two hundred Mamoudi's. Lignum Aloes, in small pieces, four hundred Mamoudi's. Vez-Cabouli, a certain Root, twelve Mamoudi's. There is a sort of Lignum Aloes very Gummy, which comes to, by the Mein, four thousand Mamoudi's. Gum-Lake for the most part comes from Pegu; yet there is some also brought from Bengala, where it is very dear, by reason the Natives fetch that lively Scarlet colour out of it, with which they paint their Calicuts. Nevertheless, the Hollanders buy it, and carry it into Persia for the same use of painting. That which remains after the colour is drawn off, is only fit to make sealing Wax. That which comes from Pegu is not so dear, though as good for other Countries. The difference is only this, that it is not so clean in Pegu, where the Pismires soul it, as in Bengala, where it grows in a heathy place, full of Shrubs, where those Animals cannot so well come at it. The Inhabitants of Pegu never make any use of it in painting, being a dull sort of people, that are in nothing at all industrious. The Women of Surat get their live by cleansing the Lake after the Scarlet colour is drawn from it. After that they give it what colour they please, and make it up into Sticks for sealing Wax. The English and Holland Company carry away every year a hundred and fifty Chests. The price is about ten Sous the pound. Powdered Sugar is brought in great quantities out of the Kingdom of Bengala; it causes also a very great Trade at Ougeli, Patna, Daca, and other places. I have been told it for a very great certainty, by several ancient people in Bengala, that Sugar being kept thirty years becomes absolute poison, and that there is no Venom more dangerous, or that sooner works its effect. Loaf-Sugar is also made at Amadabat, where they are perfectly skilled in refining it; for which reason it is called Sugar Royal. These Sugar-Loaves usually weigh from eight to ten pound. Opium is brought from Brampour, a Town of good Trade between Agra and Surat. The Hollanders buy great quantities, which they truck for their Pepper. Tobacco also grows in abundance round about Brampour; sometimes there has been so much that the Natives have let vast quantities rot upon the ground, for want of gathering. Coffee grows neither in Persia nor in India, where it is in no request; but the Hollanders drive a great Trade in it, transporting it from Ormus into Persia, as far as Great Tartary, from Balsara into Caldea, Arabia, Mesopotamia, and other Provinces of Turkey. It was first found out by a Hermit, whose name was Scheck-Siadeli, about twenty-years ago, before which time it was never heard of in any Author either ancient or modern. Deceits in Silk Wares. Plain Silk Wares may be altered in length, breadth, and quality. The quality shows itself when they are of an even thread, when the weight is equal, and when there is no Cotton thread in the West. The Indians not having the art of guilding silver, put into their stripped Wares threads of pure Gold, so that you must count the quantity of Gold threads to see whether the Silk have its due number. And this also you must observe in your Silks woven with Silver. As for Taffatas, you are only to mind whether the pieces be all of a fineness, and to see by unfolding some of them, that there be nothing within to augment the weight, and then weighing all the pieces by themselves, to see that they all agree. The colours of those Carpets which are made in India, do not last so long as the colour of those which are made in Persia; but for the workmanship it is very lovely. The eye of the Broker is to judge of the largeness, beauty, and fineness of those Carpets which are wrought with Gold and Silver, and whether they be fine and rich. But whether they be Carpets, or other Stuffs mixed with Gold and Silver, it behoves the Buyer to pull out some of the Gold and Silver, Threads, to see whether they be of the right value or no. Deceits in the White Calicuts. The deceits usually put upon Calicuts, are in fineness length, and breadth. Every Bale may contain two hundred pieces; among which they will juggle in five or six or ten, less fine, or less white, shorter or narrower than according to the scantling of the Bale, which cannot be found out but by examining them piece by piece. The fineness is discerned by the eye, the length and breadth by the measure. But the Indians practise a more cunning way, which is to count the number of threads which ought to be in the breadth, according to the fineness of the scantling. When the number fails, it is either more transparent, more narrow, or more course. The difference is sometimes so difficult to be perceived, that there is no way to find it out but by counting the threads. And yet this difference in a great quantity comes to a great deal. For it is nothing to cousin a Crown or two Crowns, in a piece that comes but to fifteen or twenty Crowns. Those that whiten these Calicuts, to save charges of a few Lemons, will knock the Calicuts excessively upon a Stone, which does fine Calicuts a great injury, and loars the price. As for their Calicuts died blue or black, you must take care that the Workmen do not knock them after they are folded, to make them look sleek; for many times when they come to be unfolded, you shall find holes in the creases. As for your painted and printed Calicuts, which are painted and printed as they come out of the Loom, the Merchant must take care that what he bespeaks be finished before the end of the Rains, for the thicker the Water is where they are washed, the more lively will the printed and painted colours appear. It is easy to distinguish between the printed and the painted Calicuts; and between the neatness of the work: but for the fineness and other qualities, they are not so easily discerned; and therefore the Broker must be more careful. Cheats in Cotton. THE cheat in the weight is twofold. The first, by laying them in a moist place; and thrusting in the middle of every Skein something to add to the weight. The second, in not giving good weight when the Broker receives it from the Workman, or Merchant that delivers it. There is but one cheat in the quality, that is by putting three or four Skains, of a coarser Commodity than that which is uppermost, into one Mein. Which in a great quantity mounts high; for there are some Cottons that are worth an hundred Crowns the Mein. These two cheats being often used by the Holland-Company, there is no way but to weigh your Commodity in the presence of the Dutch-Commander, and his Council, and to examine every Mein, Skein by Skein. When this is done, they who are ordered to be at this examination, are obliged to fix to every Bale a ticket of the weight and quality: for if there be a faileur, they who fix the ticket are engaged to make good what is wanting. Deceits in Indigo. I Have told you, that when the Workmen have made up the Indigo-Paste into lumps, with their fingers dipped in Oil, they lay them in the Sun a drying. Now those that have a design to cheat the Merchants, dry them in the sand, to the end that the sand sticking to the Indigo, should increase the weight. Sometimes they lay up their Paste in moist places, which makes it give, and consequently renders it more heavy. But if the Governor of the place discovers the cheat, he makes them severely pay for it: and the best way of discovery is to burn some pieces of Indigo, for the sand will remain. Indian Brokers. THE Brokers are as it were the Masters of the Indian Families; for they have all Goods at their disposal. The Workmen choose the most aged and most experienced, who are to endeavour equal advantages for the whole Tribe they undertake for. Every evening that they return from their business, and that, according to the custom of the Indians, who make no Suppers, they have eaten some little piece of sweetmeat, and drank a glass of water, the eldest of the Tribe meet at the Broaker's House, who gives them an account of what he has done that day, and then they consult what he is to do next. Above all things, they caution him to look to his hits, and to cheat, rather than be cheated. CHAP. XI. Of Diamonds, and the Mines and Rivers where they are found; and first of the Author's journey to the Mine of Raolconda. THE Diamond is the most precious of all Stones, and it was in that sort of Commodity wherein I most dealt. And therefore to acquire a perfect experience, I went to all the Mines; and to one of the Rivers where they are found. To which purpose I travelled to four Mines; of which I will give you a description; and of one of the Rivers where I have also been. The first of these Mines, where I was, is in the Territories of the King of Visapour, in the Province of Carnatica; and the place is called Raolconda, five days journey from Golconda, and eight or nine from Visapour. This Mine was discovered not above two-hundered years ago, as I was informed by those of the Country. Round about the place where the Diamonds are found, the ground is sandy, full of Rocks, much resembling the parts near Fountain-Bleau. There are in the Rocks several veins, some half a finger, some a whole finger-wide: And the Miners make use of Irons with hooks at the end, with which thep pick out the earth or sand, which they put into tubs, and among that earth they find the Diamonds. But because these veins do not run always straight, but sometimes down, sometimes upward, the Miners are constrained to break the Rock, following always the trace of the veins: When they have opened all the veins, and taken out all the sand, than they wash it two or three times over to look for the Diamonds. In this Mine it is that they find the cleanest Stones, and of the whitest water. But the mischief is, that to fetch the sand out of the Rock, they are forced to strike such terrible blows with a great Iron-leaver, that they flaw the Diamond, and make it look like Crystal. Which is the reason there are found so many soft Stones in this Diamond-Mine, though they make a great show. If the Stone be clean, they only give it a turn or two upon the wheel, not caring to shape it, for fear of losing the weight. If there be any flaws, or any points, or any black or red specks in it, they cut all the Stone into Fossets; or if there be only a little flaw, they work it under the ridg of one of the Fossets, to hid the defect. Now because a Merchant desires rather to have a black speck than a red one; 'tis but burning the Stone, and the speck becomes black. This trick at length I understood so well, that when I saw any Stones in them that came from the Mine made into Fossets, especially very small ones, I was certain there was either some speck or some flaw in the Stone. There are several Diamond-Cutters at this Mine, but none of them have above one Mill, which is of Steel. They never cut but one Stone at a time upon each Mill, casting water continually upon the Mill, to find out the grain of the Stone; which being found, they pour on Oil, (not sparing for powder of Diamonds, though it be very dear,) to make the Stone slide the faster; and they lay on more weight than we do. I have seen them lay upon one Stone an hundred and fifty pound of Lead. I must confess it was a great Stone, which weighed an hundred and three Carats, after it was cut; and the Mill was like ours, only the great Wheel was turned by four Negroes. The Indians are not of the same opinion that we are; for they do not believe that the weight gives any lustre to the Stones. If theirs be not subject to take their lustre, 'tis because there is always a Boy that stands with a thin wooden-slice in his hand, and waters the Wheel continually with Oil and Powder of Diamonds. Besides, their Wheel does not go so fast as ours, because the Wooden-wheel that turns the Steel-wheel, is not above three foot in Diameter. They cannot give that lively polishment to Stones, as we give to ours in Europe; and I believe the reason to be, because their Wheel does not run so flat as ours. For in regard it is of Steel, to rub it upon the Emeril, as must be done every four and twenty hours, the Tree must be taken off, which can never be put on again so as to run so flat as it did. Had they the invention of Iron-mills, upon which they never use Emeril, but only the File, because there is no necessity to take off the Tree to file the Mill, they might polish their Stones better than they do. I have told you they must either rub the Mill with Emeril, or file it every four and twenty hours. For when the Stone has run for some time, that part of the Mill becomes as smooth and bright as glass: so that if you do not rough it again either with Emeril or the File, the powder will not stay; whereas if the powder stay, there is more work done in an hour than otherwise in two. Though a Diamond be naturally very hard, having a kind of a knot, as you see in wood, the Indian Lapidaries will cut the Stone, which our European Lapidaries find great difficulty to do, and usually will not undertake to perform; which makes the Indians require something more for the fashion. As for the Government of the Mines, they trade very freely, and very faithfully. They pay two per cent. to the King for all that they buy: besides that, he has also a duty from the Merchants for leave to dig. The Merchant after he has made search with the Miners, who know all the places where the Diamonds grow, chooses out a place about two-hundered paces in compass, where they set at work sometimes fifty, sometimes an hundred Miners, as they are in haste of work. And from the day that they begin to work, to the day that they end, the Merchants pay to the King two Pagods a-day; and four when they employ an hundred men. These poor people never get above three Pagods all the year long, though they understand their business extremely well; so that their wages being so small, they make no scruple, when they can handsomely, to hid a Stone for their own profit: and in regard they are quite naked, only for a rag about their privities, sometimes they are so dextrous as to swallow the Stone. The chief of the Merchants who employ these Miners showed me one of them, that had cozened him of a Stone, and had put it into the corner of his eye, but he took it from the fellow so soon as he had discovered the cheat. To prevent this cozenage, there are twelve or fifteen in fifty, who are engaged to the Merchant, that he shall have no injury done him, nor any thefts committed. If by accident they meet with a Stone that weighs 14 or 16 Carats, they presently carry it to the Master of the work, who gives him in recompense the Sarpo, which is a piece of Calicut to make him a Bonnet, to the value of 25 Sous, together with half a Pagod in Silver, or else a whole Pagod, when he gives him neither Rice nor Sugar. The Merchants that come to trade at the Mines keep their Lodgings; and every morning about ten or eleven a clock, after they have dined, the Masters of the Miners bring their Diamonds to show them. If the Stones are large, or that there be so many as amount from two-thousand to sixteen-thousand Crowns, they will leave them with the strange Merchant seven or eight days, for the Merchants to consider. When the Merchant has seen the Stones, it becomes him to agree upon the price in a short time. Otherwise the party that owes the Stones, takes them away again, and you shall never see the same Stones again, unless mixed with others, When the bargain is concluded, the Purchaser gives a Bill of Exchange upon the Banker. If you have agreed to pay him in four days, and make him stay longer, you must pay him down one and an half in the hundred for a month's interest. Most commonly when they know the Merchant to be sufficient, they will choose to take a Bill of Exchange for Agra, for Golconda, or Visapour, but more especially for Surat, as being the most frequented Port in all India, where they may furnish themselves with all Commodities which they want. 'Tis very pleasant to see the young children of the Merchants and other people of the Country, from the age of ten to fifteen or sixteen years, who seat themselves upon a Tree that lies in the void place of the Town: Every one of them has his Diamond-weights in a little Bag hanging at one side, on the other his Purse with five or six-hundered Pagods in Gold in it. There they sit expecting when any person will come to sell them some Diamonds. If any person brings them a Stone, they put it into the hands of the eldest Boy among them, who is as it were their chief; who looks upon it, and after that gives it to him that is next him; by which means it goes from hand to hand, till it return to him again, none of the rest speaking one word. After that he demands the price, to buy it if possible; but if he buy it too dear, 'tis upon his own account. In the evening the children compute what they have laid out, than they look upon their Stones, and separate them according to their water, their weight, and clearness. Then they bring them to the great Merchants, who have generally great parcels to match: and the profit is divided among the children equally; only the chief among them has a fourth in the hundred more than the rest. As young as they are, they so well understand the price of Stones, that if one of them have bought any purchase, and is willing to lose one half in the hundred, the other shall give him his Money. They shall hardly bring you a parcel of Stones, above a dozen, wherein there is not some flaw or other defect. When I came to the Mine, I went to wait upon the Governor, who told me I was welcome; and because he made no question but that I had brought Gold with me, (for they talk of nothing under Gold at the Mines,) he bid me only lay it in my Chamber, and he would undertake it should be safe. Thereupon he presented me with four servants to watch my Gold day and night, and to follow my orders, bidding me withal fear nothing, but eat, drink, and sleep, and take care of my health; but withal he told me I must be careful of not cheating the King. Thereupon I fell to buying, and found profit enough, above twenty in the hundred cheaper than at Golconda. I have one thing to observe which is more than ordinarily curious, concerning the manner how the Indians, as well Mahumetans as Idolaters, drive their bargains. Every thing is done with great silence, and without any talking on either side. The buyer and the seller sit one before another like two Tailors, and the one of the two opening his Girdle, the seller takes the right-hand of the purchaser, and covers his own hand and that with his Girdle: under which, in the presence of many Merchants that meet together in the same Hall, the bargain is secretly driven without the knowledge of any person. For then the purchaser nor seller speak neither with their mouths nor eyes, but only with the hand, as thus. When the seller takes the purchaser by the whole hand, that signifies a thousand, and as often as he squeezes it, he means so many thousand Pagods or Roupies, according to the Money in question. If he takes but half to the knuckle of the middle-finger, that's as much as to say fifty: The small end of the finger to the first knuckle signifies ten. When he grasps five fingers, it signifies five-hundred; if but one finger, one-hundered. This is the mystery which the Indians use in driving their bargains. And many times it happens, that in the same place, where there are several people, one and the same parcel shall be sold seven or eight times over, and no person know that it was sold in that manner every time. As for the weight of the Stones, no person can be deceived in them, unless he purchase them in hugger-mugger. For if they are publicly bought, there is a person on purpose paid by the King, without any benefit from particular persons, whose place it is to weigh the Diamonds; and when he has spoken the weight, the buyer and seller are satisfied in his words, as not being a person any way obliged to favour any person. Having dispatched all my business at the Mine, the Governor appointed me six Horsemen to convoy me through the Territories under his Government, which extends to a River that separates the Kingdom of Visapour from that of Golconda. 'Tis a very difficult thing to cross that River, it being deep, broad and rapid; besides that, there are no Boats. But they ferry over Men, Carriages, Oxen and Coaches upon a round Vessel, ten or twelve foot in Diameter, made of Osier-twigs, like our Flaskets, and covered without with Ox-hides; as I have already related. They might easily use Boats, or make a Bridge; but the King of Golconda will not suffer either, because the River parts the two Kingdoms. Every evening the Ferry-men on both sides are bound to carry to two Governors on each side the River, an exact account of the Persons, Carriages and Merchandizes which they ferried over that day. Coming to Golconda, I found that the person whom I had left in trust with my Chamber, was dead: but that which I observed most remarkable, was, that I found the door sealed with two Seals, one being the Cadi's or chief Justice's, the other the Sha-Bander's, or Provost of the Merchants. An Officer of Justice, together with the Servants I had left behind, watched the Chamber night and day. This Officer hearing of my arrival, went and gave notice to the Cadi and Sha-Bander, who sent for me. The Cadi presently asked me, if the Money I had left in the Chamber where the person died were mine, and how I could prove it. I told him I had no better proofs than the Letters of Exchange which I had brought to the Banker that paid it by my order to the person deceased; to whom I had also given farther order, that if the Banker paid me in Silver, he should change the sum into Gold. Thereupon the Bankers were sent for, who affirming the payments accordingly, the Cadi sent his Deputy to open the Chamber door; nor would he leave me, till I had counted over my Money, and had assured him it was right. After that I returned to the Cadi and the Sha-Bander, and signified as much to them; and having paid them some Fees which they demanded, to the value of four Crowns and a half of our Money, I returned them my thanks for their care. This I relate to show the justice of the Country. CHAP. XII. The Author's Journey to the other Mines; and how they find the Diamonds there. SEven days journey from Golconda Eastward there is another Diamond Mine, called in the language of the Country Gani, in the Persian tongue Colour. It is near a great Town, by which the same River runs, which I crossed coming from the other Mine; and a League and a half from the Town is a high Mountain in the form of a Half-Moon; the space between the Town and the Mountain is a Plain where they dig and find Diamonds. The nearer they dig to the Mountain, the larger Stones they find; but at the top they find nothing at all. It is not above a hundred years since this Mine was found out by a Countryman, who digging in a piece of ground to sow Millet, found therein a pointed Stone that weighed above twenty-five Carats; he not knowing what the Stone was, but seeing it glister, carried it to Golconda, where as it happened well for him, he met with one that traded in Diamonds. The Merchant informing himself of the place where the Stone was found, admired to see a Jewel of that bigness, not having seen any one before that weighed above ten or twelve Carats. However his report made a great noise in the Country; insomuch that the Moneyed men in the Town set themselves to work, and causing the ground to be searched, they found, and still do find bigger Stones, and in greater quantity than in any other Mine. For they found a great number of Stones from ten to forty Carats, and sometimes bigger; among the rest that large Stone that weighed nine hundred Carats, which Mirgimola presented to Aurengzeb. But though this Mine of Colour be so considerable for the quantity of great Stones which are there found, yet the mischief is, the Stones are not clean; the Waters having something of the quality of the Earth where they are found. If the Ground be marshy, the Water inclines to black; if it be red, there is a redness in the Water; in other places the Stones appear somewhat greenish, in others yellowish; such a diversity of Soils there is between the Town and the Mountain. Upon the most part of these Stones after they are cut, there appears a kind of greasy moisture, which must be as often wiped off. As for the Water of the Stones, it is remarkable, that whereas in Europe we make use of daylight to examine the rough Stones, and to judge of their Water, and the specks that are found therein, the Indians do all that in the nighttime, setting up a Lamp with a large Wiek, in a hole which they make in the Wall, about a soot square; by the light whereof they judge of the Water and clearness of the Stone, which they hold between their Fingers. The Water which they call celestial is the worst of all, and it is impossible to discern it so long as the Stone is rough. The most infallible way to find out that Water, is to carry the Stone under a Tree thick of Boughs, for by the verdure of that shade you may easily discern whether the Water be bluish or no. The first time I was at the Mine, there were above sixty thousand persons at work, men, women, and children; the men being employed to dig, the women, and children to carry the Earth. After the Miners have pitched upon the place where they intent to work, they levelly another place close by, of the same extent, or else a little bigger, which they enclose with a Wall about two foot high. In the bottom of that little Wall, at the distance of every two foot, they make small holes to let in the water; which they stop up afterwards, till they come to drain out the water again. The place being thus prepared, the people that are to work meet all together, men, women, and children, with the Workmaster in the Company of his Friends and Relations. Then he brings along with him some little Image of the God that they adore; which being placed upright upon the ground, they all prostrate themselves three times before it, while their Priest says a certain prayer. The prayer being ended, he marks the forehead of every one with a kind of Glue, made of Saffron and Gum, to such a compass as will hold seven or eight Grains of Rice, which he sticks upon it; then having washed their bodies with water, which every one brings in his pot, they rank themselves in order to eat what the Workmaster presents them, before they go to work, to encourage them both to labour and be faithful. This Feast consists of nothing else but every one his Plate of Rice, distributed by the Bramin; for an Idolater may eat any thing from the hands of one of their Priests. The Plates are made of the Leaves of a certain Tree, not much unlike our Walnut-tree Leaves. Besides this, every one has a quarter of a pound of Butter, melted in a small Copper pot with some Sugar. When their Feast is over, the men fall to digging, the women and children to carry Earth to the place prepared in that manner as I have already described, They dig ten, twelve, and sometimes fourteen foot deep; but when they come to any water they leave off. All the Earth being carried into the place beforementioned, the men, women, and children with Pitchers throw the water which is in the drains upon the Earth, letting it soak for two or three days, according to the hardness of it, till it come to be a kind of Batter; then they open the holes in the Wall to let out the water, and throw on more water still, till all the mud be washed away, and nothing left but the Sand. After that they dry it in the Sun; and then they winnow the Sand in little Winnows, as we winnow our Corn. The small dust flies away, the great remains, which they pour out again upon the ground. The Earth being thus winnowed, they spread it with a kind of Rake, as thin as they possibly can; then with a wooden Instrument, like a Paviers Rammer, about half a foot wide at the bottom, they pound the Earth from one end to the other, two or three times over. After that they winnow it again then; and spreading it at one end of the Van, for fear of losing any of they Earth, the look for the Diamond. Formerly they were wont to pound the Earth with great Flint-stones, instead of wooden Rammers; which made great flaws in the Diamonds, and is therefore now left off. Heretofore they made no scruple to buy those Diamonds that had a green outside; for being cut, they proved very white, and of an excellent water. Since they have been more nice; for there was a Mine discovered between Colour and Raolconda, which the King caused to be shut up again, by reason of some cheats that were used there; for they found therein that sort of Stones which had this green outside, fair and transparent, and which appeared more fair than the others; but when they came to the Mill they crumbled to pieces. CHAP. XIII. A Continuation of the Author's Travels to the Diamond Mines. I come to the third Mine, which is the most ancient of all, in the Kingdom of Bengala. You may give it the name of Soumelpour, which is the name of the Town next to the place where the Diamonds are found; or rather Gonel, which is the name of the River in the Sand whereof they seek for the Stones. The Territories through which this River runs, belong to a Raja, who was anciently tributary to the Great Mogul, but revolted in the time of the Wars between Sha-jehan and Gehanguir his Father. So soon as Sha-jehan came to the Empire, he sent to demand his Tribute of this Raja, as well for the time past, as to come; who finding that his Revenues were not sufficient to pay him, quitted his Country, and retired into the Mountains with his Subjects. Upon his refusal, Sha-jehan believing he would stand it out, sent a great Army against him, persuading himself that he should find great store of Diamonds in his Country. But he found neither Diamonds, nor People, nor Victuals, the Raja having burnt all the Corn which his Subjects could not carry away; so that the greatest part of Sha-jehan's Army perished for hunger. At length the Raja returned into his Country, upon condition to pay the Mogul some slight Tribute. The Way from Agra to this Mine. From Agra to Halabas, costs 130 From Halabas to Banarous, costs 33 From Banarous to Sasaron, costs 4 From Agra to Saffron you travel Eastward; but from Saffron to the Mine you must wind to the South, coming first to a great Town, costs 21 This Town belongs to the Raja I have spoke of. From thence you go to a Fortress called Rodas, costs 4 This is one of the strongest places in all Asia, seated upon a Mountain, fortified with six Bastions, and twenty-seven pieces of Cannon, with three Moats full of Water, wherein there are good Fish. There is but one way to come to the top of the Mountain, where there is a Plain half a League in compass, wherein they sow Corn and Rice. There is above twenty Springs that water that Plain; but all the rest of that Mountain from top to bottom is nothing but a steep Precipice covered with overgrown Woods. The rajas formerly used to live in this Fort with a Garrison of seven or eight hundred men. But the Great Mogul has it now; having taken that Fort by the policy of the famous Mirgimola, which all the Kings of India could never take before. The Raja left three Sons, who betrayed one another; the eldest was poisoned, the second went and served the Great Mogul, who gave him the command of four thousand Horse; the third possesses his Father's Territories, paying the Mogul a small Tribute. From the Fortress of Rodas to Soumelpour, costs 30 Soumelpour is a great Town, the Houses whereof are built of Earth, and covered only with Branches of Coco-trees. All these thirty Leagues you travel through Woods, which is a very dangerous passage, as being very much pestered with Robbers. The Raja lives half a League from the Town, in Tents set upon a fair rising ground, at the foot whereof runs the Govel, descending from the Southern Mountains, and falling into Ganges. In this River they find the Diamonds. For after the great Rains are over, which is usually in December, they stay all January till the River be clear; by reason that by that time in some places it is not above two foot deep, and in several places the Sand lies above the water. About the end of January, or the beginning of February, there flock together out of the great Town, and some others adjoining, above eight thousand persons, men, women and children, that are able to work. They that are skilful know by the sand whether there be any Diamonds or no, when they find among the sand little Stones like to those which we call Thunder-Stones. They begin to make search in the River from the Town of Soumelpour to the very Mountains from whence the River falls, for fifty Leagues together. Where they believe there are Diamonds, they encompass the place with Stakes, Faggots, and Earth, as when they go about to make the Arch of a Bridge to drain all the water out of that place. Then they dig out all the Sand for two foot deep, which is all carried and spread upon a great place for that purpose prepared upon the side of the River; encompassed with a little Wall about a foot and half high. When they have filled this place with as much Sand as they think convenient, they throw water upon it, wash it, and sift it; doing in other things as they do at the Mines which I have already described. From this River come all those fair Points which are called natural Points, but a great Stone is seldom found here. The reason why none of these Stones have been seen in Europe, is because of the Wars, that have hindered the people from working. Besides the Diamond Mine which I have spoken of in the Province of Carnatica, which Mirgimola caused to be shut up, by reason of the yellowness of the Diamonds, and the foulness of the Stones; there is in the Island of Borneo, the largest Island in the World, another River called Succadan, in the Sand whereof they find Diamonds as hard as any in the other Mines. The principal reason that dissuaded me from going to the Island of Borneo was, because I understood that the Queen of the Island would not permit any Strangers to carry away any of those Diamonds out of the Island. Those few that are exported, being carried out by stealth, and privately sold at Batavia. I say the Queen, and not the King, because in that Island the Women have the Sovereign Command, and not the Men. For the people are so curious to have a lawful Heir upon the Throne, that the Husband not being certain that the Children which he has by his Wife are his own; but the Wife being always certain that the Children which she bears are hers, they rather choose to be governed by a Woman, to whom they give the Title of Queen; her Husband being only her Subject, and having no power but what she permits him. CHAP. XIV. Of the diversity of Weights used at the Diamond Mines. Of the Pieces of Gold and Silver there Currant; and the Rule which they observe to know the Price of Diamonds. AT the Mine of Raolconda they weigh by Mangelins, a Mangelin being one Carat and three quarters, that is seven Grains. At the Mine of Gani or Colour they use the same Weights. At the Mine of Soumelpour in Bengala, they weigh by Rati's, and the Rati is seven eighths of a Carat, or three Grains and a half. They use the same Weights over all the Empire of the Mogul. In the Kingdoms of Golconda and Visapour, they make use of Mangelins: but a Mangelin in those parts is not above one Carat and three eighths. The Portugals in Goa make use of the same Weights in Goa; but a Mangelin there is not above five Grains. As for the Money in use: First, in Bengala, in the Territories of the Raja before mentioned, in regard they lie enclosed within the Dominions of the Great Mogul, they make their payments in Roupies. At the two Mines about Raolconda in the Kingdom of Visapour, the payments are made in new Pagods, which the King coins in his own Name, as being independent from the Great Mogul. The new Pagod is not always at the same value; for it is sometimes worth three Roupies and a half, sometimes more, and sometimes less; being advanced and brought down according to the course of Trade, and the correspondence of the Bankers with the Princes and Governors. At the Mine of Colour or Gani, which belongs to the Kingdom of Golconda, they make their payments in new Pagods, which are equal in value to the King of Visapours. But sometimes you are forced to give four in the hundred more, by reason they are better Gold, and besides, they will take no others at the Mine. These Pagods are coined by the English and Hollanders, who, whether willingly or by force, are privileged by the King to coin them in their Forts: And those of the Hollanders cost one or two per cent. more than the English, by reason they are better Gold, and for that the Miners choose them before the other. But in regard the Merchants are prepossessed that the Miners are a rude and savage sort of people, and that the ways are dangerous, they stay at Golconda, where the Workmasters keep correspondence with them, and send them their Jewels. There they pay in old Pagods coined many ages ago by several Princes that Reigned in India before the Mahometans got footing therein. Those old Pagods are worth four Roupies and a half, that is to say, a Roupy more than the new: not that there is any more Gold in them, or that they weigh any more. Only the Bankers, to oblige the King, not to bring down the price, pay him annually a very great Sum, by reason they get very much by it. For the Merchants receive none of those Pagods without a Changer to examine them, some being all defaced, others low-metal, others wanting weight: so that if one of these Bankers were not present at the receipt, the Merchant would be a greater loser, sometimes one, sometimes five, sometimes six i'th' hundred: for which they also pay them one quarter in the hundred for their pains. When the Miners are paid, they also receive their Money in the presence of Bankers, who tells them which is good, and which is bad; and has for that also one quarter i'th' hundred. In the payment of a thousand or two-thousand Pagods, the Banker, for his fee, puts them into a bag, and seals it with his Seal; and when the Merchant pays for his Diamonds, he brings the Seller to the Banker, who finding his bag entire, assures the party that all is right and good within; and so there is no more trouble. As for the Roupies, they take indifferently, as well the Great Moguls as the King of Golconda's: by reason that those which that King coins, are to be coined, by Articles, with the Great Mogul's stamp. 'Tis an idle thing to believe that vulgar error, that it is enough to carry Spices, Tobacco, Looking-glasses, and such trifles to truck for Diamonds at the Indian-Mines: For I can assure ye, these people will not only have Gold, but Gold of the best sort too. As for the roads to the Mines, some fabulous modern relations have rendered them very dangerous, and filled them full of Lions, Tigers, and cruel People; but I found them not only free from those wild creatures, but also the People very loving and courteous. From Golconda to Raolconda, which is the principal Mine, the road is as follows: the road being measured by Goseling, which is four French-leagues. From Golconda to Canapour, one Gos. From Canapour to Parquel, two Gossip and a half. From Parquel to Cakenol, one Gos. From Cakenol to Canol-Candanor, three Gos. From Canol-Candanor to Setapour, one Gos. From Setapour to the River, two Gos. That River is the bound between the Kingdoms of Golconda and Visapour. From the River to Alpour, three quarters of a Gos. From Alpour to Canal, three quarters of a Gos. From Canal to Raolconda, two Gossip and a half. Thus from Golconda to the Mine, they reckon it seventeen Gossip, or 68 French-Leagues. From Golconda to the Mine of Colour or Gani, is reckoned thirteen Gossip and three quarters, or 55 French-leagues. From Golconda to Almaspinda, three Gossip and a half. From Almaspinda to Kaper, two Gos. From Kaper to Montecour, two Gossip and a half. From Montecour to Naglepar, two Gos. From Naglepar to Eligada, one Gossip and a half. From Eligada to Sarvaron, one Gos. From Sarvaron to Mellaseron, one Gos. From Mellaseron to Ponocour, two Gossip and a quarter. At Ponocour you only cross the River to Colour. CHAP. XV. The Rule to know the just price and value of a Diamond of what weight soever, from three to a hundred, and upwards: a secret known to very few people in Europe. I Make no mention of Diamonds of three Carats, the price thereof being sufficiently known. First then, as to others above that weight, you must know how much the Diamond weighs, and see if it be perfect; if it be a thick Stone, well-squared, and have all its corners, if the water be white and lively, without specks and flaws. If it be a Stone cut in Facets, which we call a Rose-Diamond, you must take notice whether the form be round or oval, whether it be of a fair breadth, and not of Stones clapped together; whether it be of a good water, and without specks or flaws. Such a Stone weighing one Carat, is worth 150 Livres or more. Now to know how much a Stone of the same perfection, weighing 12 Carats, is worth. Multiply 12 by 12, it makes 144. Then multiply 144 by 150, which is the price of a Stone of one Carat, it comes to 21600 Livres. As for Example. To know the price of imperfect Diamonds, you must observe the same rule, grounded upon the price of a Stone of one Carat. You have a Diamond of fifteen Carats shown ye, neither of a good water, nor good form, and full of specks and flaws besides: such a Diamond cannot be worth above 60, or 80, or 100 Livres at most, according to the goodness of the Stone. Multiply therefore the weight of the Diamond of 15 Carats by 15: then multiply the product, which is 125, by the value of the Stone of one Carat, which we will grant to be 80 Livres, the product whereof is 10000 Livres, the price of a Diamond of 15 Carats. The Example. By that it is easy to discover the difference between a perfect and an imperfect Stone. For if that Stone of 15 Carats were perfect, the second multiplication should be wrought by 150, which is the price of a perfect Stone of one Carat: and then the Diamond would come not to 10000 Livres, but to 33750 Livres, that is 23750 Livres more than an imperfect Diamond of the same weight. By this rule observe the price of two the greatest Diamonds of the World for Cut-stones, the one in Asia, belonging to the Great Mogul; the other in Europe, in the possession of the Duke of Tuscany. The Great Mogul's Diamond weighs 279 and 9 16 th' Carats. It is of a perfect good water, of a good shape, with only a little flaw in the edge of the cutting below, which goes round about the Stone. Without that flaw, the first Carat were worth 160 Livres, but for that reason I reckon it not at above 150; and so by the rule it comes to 11723278 Livres, 14 Sous, and 3 Liards. Did the Diamond weigh no more than 279 Carats, it would not be worth above 11676150 Livres, so that the nine 16 this comes to 47128 Livres, 14 Sous, and 3 Liards. The Great Duke of Tuscany's Diamond weighs 139 Carats, clean and well-shaped, cut in facets every way: but in regard the water inclines somewhat toward the colour of Citron, I do not value the first Carat above 135 Livres; so that by the rule the Diamond ought to be worth 2608335 Livres. A Diamond by the Miners is called Iri, which the Turks, Persians and Arabians call Almas. CHAP. XVI. Of Coloured Stones, and the Places where they are found. THere are but two places in all the East where Coloured-stones are found, within the Kingdom of Pegu, and the Island of Ceylan. The first is a Mountain twelve days journey, or thereabouts, from Siren, toward the North-east; the name whereof is Capelan. In this Mine are found great quantities of Rubies, and Espinels, or Mothers of Rubies, yellow Topazes, blue and white Saphires, Jacinths, Amethysts, and other Stones of different colours. Among these Stones which are hard, they find other Stones of various colours, that are very soft, which they call Bacan in the language of the Country, but are of little or no esteem. Siren is the name of the City where the King of Pegu resides; and Ava is the Port of his Kingdom. From Ava to Siren you go by water in great flat-bottom'd-Barks, which is a voyage of sixty days. There is no going by land, by reason the Woods are full of Lions, Tigers, and Elephants. It is one of the poorest Countries in the World, where there is no Commodity but Rubies; the whole Revenue whereof amounts not to above a hunder'd-thousand Crowns. Among all the Stones that are there found, you shall hardly see one of three or four Carats that is absolutely clean, by reason that the King strictly enjoins his Subjects not to export them out of his Dominions; besides that, he keeps to himself all the clean Stones that are found. So that I have got very considerably in my Travels, by carrying Rubies out of Europe into Asia. Which makes me very much suspect the relation of Vincent le Blanc, who reports that he saw in the King's Palace Rubies as big as eggs. All Rubies are sold by weights, which are called Ratis; that is, three grains and a half, or seven 8 this of a Carat: and the payments are made in old Pagods. A Ruby weighing one Ratis, has been sold for Pagods 20 A Ruby of 2 Ratis and one 8 th', Pagods 85 A Ruby of 3 Ratis and one 4 th', Pagods 185 A Ruby of 4 Ratis and five 8 this, Pagods 450 A Ruby of 5 Ratis, Pagods 525 A Ruby of 6 Ratis and a half, Pagods 920 If a Ruby exceed six Ratis, and be a perfect Stone, there is no value to be set upon it. The Natives of the Country call all Coloured-stones Rubies, distinguishing them only by the colour. Saphires they call Blue-Rubies, Amethysts they call Violet-Rubies, Topazes Yellow-Rubies; and so of other Stones. The other place where Rubies are found, is a River in the Island of Ceylan, which descends from certain high Mountains in the middle of the Island; which swells very high when the reins fall; but when the waters are low, the people make it their business to search among the Sands for Rubies, Saphires and Topazes. All the Stones that are found in this River, are generally fairer and clearer than those of Pegu. I forgot to tell you that there are some Rubies, but more Balleis-Rubies, and an abundance of Bastard-Rubies, Saphires and Topazes found in the Mountains that run along from Pegu to the Kingdom of Camboya. Coloured-stones are also found in some parts of Europe, as in Bohemia and Hungary. In Hungary there is a Mine where they find certain Flints of different bigness, some as big as eggs, some as big as a man's fist, which being broken, contain a Ruby within as hard and as clean as those of Pegu. In Hungary there is a Mine of Opals, which Stone is nowhere else to be found in the World but there. The Turquoise is nowhere to be found but in Persia. Where there are two Mines. The one is called the Old-Rock, three days journey from Meched, toward the Northwest, near a great Town which goes by the name of Michabourg. The other which is called the New-Rock is five days journey off. Those of the New-Rock are of a paler blue inclining to white, and less esteemed, so that you may have a great many for a little Money. Some years since the King of Persia commanded that no Turquoises should be digged out of the Old-Rock, but only for himself; making use of those Turquoises instead of enamelling, to adorn Hilts of Swords, Knives and Daggers; of which the Persians are altogether ignorant. As for Emeralds, it is a vulgar error to say they come originally from the East. And therefore when Jewellers and Goldsmiths, to prefer a deep-coloured Emerald inclining to black, tell ye, it is an Oriental Emerald, they speak that which is not true. I confess I could never discover in what part of our Continent those Stones are found. But sure I am, that the Easternpart of the World never produced any of those Stones, neither in the Continent, nor in the Islands. True it is, that since the discovery of America some of those Stones have been often brought rough from Peru to the Philippine-Islands, whence they have been transported into Europe; but this is not enough to make them Oriental. Besides that, at this time they send them into Spain through the North-Sea. CHAP. XVII. Of Pearls, and the Places where they Fish for them. IN the first place, there is a Fishery for Pearls in the Persian Gulf, round about the Island of Bakren. It belongs to the King of Persia, and there is a strong Fort in it, Garrisoned with three hundred men. The Water which the people drink in that Island, and all along the Coast of Persia, is brackish and ill-tasted, so that only the Natives of the Country can drink it. Fresh water costs Strangers very dear; for the people fetch it sometimes one League, sometimes two Leagues from the Island, from the bottom of the Sea, being let down by a Rope, with a Bottle or two tied about their wastes, which they fill, and stop it well; and then giving the Rope a twitch, are hall'd up again by their Companions. Every one that fishes pays to the King of Persia five Abassi's, whether he get any thing or no. The Merchant also pays the King some small matter for every thousand Oysters. The second Fishery for Pearls is right against Bakrens upon the Coast of Arabia the happy, near the City of Catifa, which together with all the Country about it, is under the Jurisdiction of an Arabian Prince. The Pearls that are fished in these places are sold to the Indians, who are not so nice as we; for they give a good price for all, as well the uneven as the round ones. Over all Asia they choose the yellow Water inclining to white; for they say those Pearls that incline somewhat to a Gold colour, are more brisk, and never change colour; but that the white ones will change in thirty-years time, throughthe very heat of the weather and the sweat of the person that wears them, turning the scandalously yellow. There is a wondrous Pearl in the possession of an Arabian Prince, that took Mascate from the Portugals. He then called himself Imenhect Prince of Mascaté; being known before only by the name of Aceph Ben-Ali Prince of Norennaé. It is but a small Province, but it is the best of all in the Happy Arabia. Therein grow all things necessary for the life of man; particularly, delicate fruits, but more especially most excellent Grapes, which would make most incomparable Wine. This Prince has the most wonderful Pearl in the world, not so much for its bigness, for it weighs not above twelve Carats and one sixteenth, nor for its perfect roundness, but because it is so clear and so transparent that you may almost see through it. The Great Mogul offered him by a Banian forty thousand Crowns for his Pearl, but he would not accept it. By which you see, that it is more profitable to carry Jewels that are rare out of Europe into Asia, than to bring them out of Asia into Europe; unless it be to Japan or China, where Jewels are little esteemed. There is another Fishery for Pearls in the Sea that beats against the Walls of a great Town called Manar, in the Island of Ceylan. For their roundness and their Water, they are the fairest that are found in any other Fishery; but they rarely weigh above three or four Carats. There are excellent Pearls, and of a very good water, and large, which are found upon the Coast of Japan; but there are few fished for, in regard Jewels are of no esteem among the Natives. There are other Fisheries in the West Indies; in the first place all along the Island of Cubagna, three Leagues in compass, lying ten Degrees and a half of Northern Latitude, a hundred and sixty Leagues from Santo Domingo. The Pearls are small, seldom weighing above five Carats. The second Fishery is in the Island of Manguerita, or the Island of Pearls, a League from Cubagna, but much bigger. This Fishery is not the most plentiful, but it is the most esteemed of all those in the West Indies, by reason the Pearls are of most excellent water, and very large. I sold one Pear-fashioned to Sha-Est-Kan, the Great Moguls Uncle, that weighed fifty-five Carats. The third Fishery is at Camogete, near the Continent. The fourth at Rio de la Hacha, all along the same Coast. The fifth and last, at St. Martha's, sixty Leagues from Rio de la Hacha. All these three Fisheries produce very weighty Pearls; but they are generally ill-shaped, and of a water inclining to the colour of Lead. As for Scotch Pearl, and those that are found in the Rivers of Bavaria, though a Necklace of them may be worth a thousand Crowns, yet they are not to be compared with the Eastern and West Indian Pearls. Some years since there was a Fishery discovered in a certain place upon the the Coast of Japan, and I have seen some which the Hollanders have brought thence. They are of a very good water, and large, but very uneven. Take this observation along with you, touching the difference of their waters; some being very white, others inclining to yellow, others to black, others to a leaden colour. As for the last, there are no such but only in America, which proceeds from the nature of the Earth at the bottom of the Water, which is generally more oozy than in the East. I once met with six Pearls in the return of a Cargo from the West Indies that were perfectly round, but black like jet, which weighed one with another twelve Carats. I carried them into the East Indies to put them off, but could meet with no Chapman to buy them. As for those that incline to yellow, it proceeds from hence, that the Fishermen selling the Oysters to the Merchants in heaps, while they stay fourteen or fifteen days till the Oysters lose their water, the Oysters waste and begin to smell, for which reason the Pearl grows yellow by injection, which appears to be a truth, in regard that where the Oysters preserve their Liquor the Pearls are white. Now the reason why they stay till the Oysters open of themselves, is because that if they should force them open, they might perhaps injure and cut the Pearl. In short, the Eastern people are much of our humour in matter of whiteness, for they love the whitest Pearls and the blackest Diamonds; the whitest bread, and the fairest women. CHAP. XVIII. How the Pearls are bred in the Oysters; how they Fish for them, and at what time. SOme ancient Writers have vulgarly reported, that Pearls are produced by the Dew of Heaven, and that there is but one in an Oyster; but experience teaches the contrary. For the Oyster never stirs from the bottom of the Sea, where the Dew can never come, which is many times twelve fathoms deep; besides, that it is as often observed, that there are six or seven Pearls in one Oyster; and I have had in my hands an Oyster, wherein there were above ten beginning to breed. 'tis very true, that they are not always of the same bigness; for they grow in an Oyster after the same manner as Eggs in the Belly of a Pullet. But I cannot say there are Pearls in all, for you may open many Oysters and find none. 'Tis no advantage to them that fish for Pearls; for if the poor people could find any other employment, they would never stick to such a one as merely keeps them alive. But the Land is so barren, that you may travel twenty Leagues before you meet with one blade of Grass; and the people are so miserably poor, that they feed upon nothing but Dates and Saltfish. They fish in the Eastern Seas twice a year; the first time in March and April, the second time in August and September; and they keep their Fairs in June ' and November. However they do not fish every year; for they that fish, will know beforehand whether it will turn to account or no. Now to the end they may not be deceived, they send to the places where they are wont to fish, seven or eight Barks, who bring back each of them about a thousand Oyste●●● which they open, and if they find not in every thousand Oysters to the value of five Fano's of Pearl, which amounts to half a Crown of our Money, 'tis a sign that the Fishing will not turn to account, in regard the poor people would not be able to defray their charge. For partly for a stock to set out, and partly for victuals while they are abroad, they are forced to borrow Money at three and four in the hundred a month. So that unless a thousand Oysters yield them five Fano's of Pearls, they do not fish that year. As for the Merchants, they must buy their Oysters at haphazard, and be content with what they find in them. If they meet with great Pearls, they account themselves happy; which they seldom do at the Fishery of Manar, those Pearls being fit for little else but to be sold by the Ounce, to powder. Sometimes a thousand Oysters amounts to seven Fano's, and the whole Fishery to a hundred thousand Piastres. The Hollanders take of every Diver eight Piastres, in regard they always attend the Fishery with two or three small Men of War, to defend them from the Malavares Pirates. The more Rain falls in the year, the more profitable the Fishery happens to be. They fish in twelve fathom water, five or six Leagues off at Sea, sometimes two hundred and fifty Barks together, among which there is not above one or two Divers at most. There is a Cord tied under the Arms of them that dive, one end whereof is held by them that are in the Bark. There is also a great stone of eighteen or twenty pound tied to the great Toe of him that dives; the end of the Rope that fastens it being also held by them in the Vessel. The Diver has beside a Sack made like a Net, the mouth whereof is kept open with a Hoop. Thus provided, he plunges into the Sea, the weight of the stone presently sinking him; when he is at the bottom, he slips off the stone, and the Bark puts off. Then the Diver goes to filling his Sack, as long as he can keep his breath; which when he can do no longer, he gives the Rope a twitch, and is presently hall'd up again. Those of Manar are better Fishers, and stay longer in the water than those of Bakrens and Catifa; for they neither put Pincers upon their Noses, nor Cotton in their Ears, as they do in the Persian Gulf. After the Diver is drawn up, he stays half a quarter of an hour to take breath, and then dives again, for ten or twelve hours together. As for the Oysters themselves, they throw 'em away, as being ill-tasted and unsavoury. To conclude the discourse of Pearls, you are to take notice, that in Europe they sell them by the Carat weight, which is four Grains. In Persia they sell them by the Abas, and one Abas is an eighteenth less than our Carat. In the Dominions of the Mogul, the Kings of Visapour and Golconda weigh them by the Ratis, and one Ratis is also an eighteenth less than our Carat. Goa was formerly the greatest place of the world for the trade of Jewels and Pearls. You must know therefore, that in Goa, and in all other places which the Portugals had in the Indies, they used a particular weight to sell their Pearls by, which they call Chego's; the proportion whereof to Carats appears in the following Table. Carats. Chegos. Carats. Chegos. 1 5 21 306 2 8 22 336 3 11 and a half 23 367 & a quarter 4 16 24 400 5 21 25 430 6 27 26 469 & a quarter 7 34 27 506 & a quarter 8 44 28 544 & a quarter 9 56 29 584 10 69 30 625 11 84 31 667 & a quart. 12 100 32 711 13 117 33 756 and a quart. 14 136 34 802 and 3 quart. 15 156 35 850 and a quart. 16 177 & 3 quart. 36 900 17 200 & a half 37 950 and a half 18 225 38 1002 and 3 quar. 19 250 & a half 39 1056 20 277 & 3 quar. 40 1111 and a quar. CHAP. XIX. Observations upon the fairest and largest Diamonds and Rubies which the Author has seen in Europe and Asia, represented according to the Figures in the Plates; as also upon those which the Author sold to the King upon his last return from the Indies: with the Figure of a large Topaz, and the fairest Pearls in the World. Number 1. THis Diamond belongs to the Great Mogul, being cut into the same form; and it weighs 319 Ratis and an half, which make 279 and nine 16 this of our Carats: when it was rough, it weighed 907 Ratis, which make 793 Carats. Numb. 2. Is the figure of a Diamond belonging to the Great Duke of Tuscany. It weighs 139 Carats and an half: the fault of it is, that the water inclines somewhat to a Citron-colour. Numb. 3. Is a Stone that weighs 176 and one 8 th' Mangelins, which makes 242 Carats and five 16 this. A Mangelin coming to one and three 8 this of our Carats. Being at Golconda I saw this Stone; and it was the biggest that ever I saw in my life in a Merchant's-hands. It was valued at 500000 Roupies, or 750000 Livres of our Money: I offered 400000 Roupies, but could not have it. Numb. 4. Is the figure of a Diamond which I bought at Amadabat; and it weighed 178 Ratis, or 157 Carats and a quarter. 〈…〉, and for several services done the Kingdom His Majesty honoured him with the Title of Noble. Numb. 5. Is the figure of the forementioned Diamond, after it was cut on both sides; there remaining 94 Carats and a half; the water being perfect. The flat-side where there were two flaws below, was as thin as a sheet of brown-paper: When the Stone was cut, I caused all that thin side to be taken off, with one part of the end above, where there remains one little speck of a flaw. Numb. 6. Is another Diamond which I bought at the Mine of Colour. It is fair and clean, and weighs 36 Mangelins, or 63 and 3 8 this of our Carats. Numb. 7 and 8. Are two pieces of a Stone that was cut in two, which being entire, weighed 75 Mangelins and a half, or 104 Carats. Though it were of a good water, it seemed so foul in the middle, that, in regard it was large, and held at a high price, there was ne'er a Banian would venture upon it. At length an Hollander bought it, and cutting it in two, found in the middle of it eight Carats of filth like a rottenweed. The small piece happened to be clean, excepting a little flaw hardly to be perceived, but for the other, wherein there are so many other cross flaws, there was no way but to make seven or eight pieces of it. The Hollander ran a great risco in cutting it asunder; for it was very great luck that it had not broke into a hundred pieces. Yet for all that it did not turn to account; so that it is in vain for another to buy that which a Banian refuses. CHAP. XX. The Forms of twenty Rubies which the Author sold to the King upon his last return from the Indies. The first part of the Plate shows the weight, extent, and thickness of every Stone. Numb. 1. IS the Figure of a Ruby that belongs to the King of Persia. It is in shape and bigness like an Egg, bored through in the middle, deep coloured, fair and clean, except one flaw in the side. They will not tell you what it cost, nor let you know what it weighs; only it appears by the Register that it has been several years in the King's Treasury. Numb. 2. Is the Figure of a Balleiss Ruby; sold for such to Giaser-Kan, the Great Moguls Uncle, who paid 950000 Roupies, or 1425000 Livres for it. But an old Indian Jeweller affirming afterwards, that it was no Balleiss Ruby, that it was not worth above 500 Roupies, and that Giafer-kan was cheated; and his opinion being confirmed by Sha-jehan, the most skilful in Jewels of any person in the Empire, Aurengzeb compelled the Merchant to take it again, and to restore the Money back. Numb. 3, and 4. Is is the Figure of Ruby belonging to the King of Visapour. Numb. 4, is the height of the Stone above the Gold. And Numb. 3, is the roundness of the Beazil. It weighs fourteen Mangelins, or seventeen Carats and a half; a Visapour Mangelin being but five Grains. It cost the King 14200 new Pagods, or 74550 Livres. Numb. 5. Is the Figure of a Ruby that a Banian showed me at Banarous; it weighs 58 Rati's, or 50 Carats and 3 quarters; being of the second rank in beauty. In shape it is like a Plump Almond, bored through at the end. I offered 40000 Roupies, or 60000 Livres for it; but the Merchant demanded 55000 Roupies. Numb. 6. Is the Figure of a great Topaz belonging to the Great Mogul; nor did I see him wear any other but that, all the while I was in India. This Topaz weighs 181 Rati's and half a quarter, or 157 Carats and three quarters. It was bought at Goa for the Great Mogul, and cost 181000 Roupies, or 271500 Livres of our Money. Numb. 7, 8, 9 Are the Figures of three several Rubies belonging to the King of France. Numb. 1. Is the Figure of a Pearl which the King of Persia bought at the Fishery of Catifa in Arabia. It cost him 82000 Tomans, or 1400000 Livres of our Money, at forty-six Livres and six Dinars to a Toman. It is the fairest and most perfect Pearl that ever was yet found to this hour, having no defect. Numb. 2. Is the Figure of the biggest Pearl that ever I saw in the Court of the Great Mogul. It hangs about the artificial Peacock's neck that adorns his great Throne. Numb. 3. Is the Figure of a Pearl that I sold to Cha-Est-Kan; the Water is somewhat saint, but it is the biggest Pearl that was ever carried out of Europe into Asia. Numb. 4. Is a great perfect Pearl, as well for its Water as for its form, which is like an Olive. It is in the midst of a Chain of Emeralds and Rubies, which the Great Mogul wears; which being put on, the Pearl dangles at the lower part of his Breast. Numb. 5. Is a Pearl perfectly round, the biggest I ever saw, and belongs to the Great Mogul. The like could never be found; for which reason the Great Mogul lays it up very charily, and never uses it. For if it could be matched, both would make a Pair of Pendants for the Ears, set between Rubies or Emeralds, according to the custom of the Country; there being no person of any quality that does not wear a Pearl between two coloured Stones in his Ear. The form of three Balais Rubies belonging to his Majesty transparent quite through. CHAP. XXI. Of Coral, and Yellow Amber, and the places where it is found. COral, but little valued in Europe, is highly esteemed in all the three other parts of the World; and there are three places where they fish for it upon the Coast of Sardigna. That of Arguerrel is the fairest of all. The second place is called Boza; and the third is near the Island of St. Peter. There are two other places upon the Coast of France, the one near the Bastion of France; the other at Tabarque. There is also another Fishery upon the Coast of Sicily, near Trepano, but the Coral is small, and ill-coloured. There is another upon the Coast of Catalogna, near Cape de Quires; where the Coral is large, and of an excellent colour, but the branches are short. There is a ninth Fishery in the Island of Majorque, much like that near the Island of Corsica. And these are all the places in the Medsterranean-Sea, where they fish for Coral; for there is none at all in the Ocean. Because that Coral grows under the hollow Rocks where the Sea is deep, the Fishers fix two spars of wood across, fastening a great piece of Lead in the middle to make it sink: after that they wind carelessly about the spar good store of tufted Hemp, and fasten the wood to two Cords, one end whereof hangs at the Poop, the other at the Prow of the Vessel. Then letting go the wood with the stream or current by the sides of the Rock, the Hemp twists itself among the Coral, so that sometimes they stand in need of five or six Boats to pull up the wood again: and if one of the Cables should chance to break with the stress, all the Rowers are in danger to be lost. While they tear up the Coral thus by force, there tumbles as much into the Sea as they fetch up: and the bottom of the Sea being generally very oozy, the Coral will be eaten as our fruits are eaten by the worms; so that the sooner they get it out of the mud, the less it will be wasted. This puts me in mind of one thing that I saw at Marseilles in a Shop where they dealt in Coral. It was a great piece of Coral, as big about as a man's fist, which because it was a little wormeaten, was cut in two pieces. When it was so cut, there was a worm that stirred, and had life, and lived for some months after, being again put into the hole. For among some branches of Coral there engenders a kind of spongy-matter, like our honey-combs, where these worms lie like bees. Some think that Coral is soft in the Sea, though in truth it be hard. But this indeed is as true, that in certain months of the year you may squeeze out of the end of a branch a kind of milky-substance; and this perhaps may be a kind of seed, which falling upon any thing that it first meets with in the Sea (as if it light upon a dead Skull, the blade of a Sword, or a pomegranate) produces another branch of Coral. And I have seen a pomegranate, and had it in my hand, that had fallen into the Sea, about which the Coral had twined at least half a foot high. They fish for Coral from the beginning of April to the end of July; to which purpose there are employed above 200 Vessels, some years more, and some years less. They are built all along the River of Genoa, being very swift. Their sails are very large for more swiftness, so that there are no Galleys can reach them. There are seven men and a boy to every Bark. They never fish above forty miles from the Land, where they think there are Rocks, for fear of the Pirates, from which they make all the Sail they can when they see them, and easily scape them through the nimbleness of their Vessels. I have one observation to make concerning Coral, in respect of the Eastern-people. The Japonners make little account of Jewels or Pearls; valuing nothing so much as a good grain of Coral, wherewith they pull the string that shuts their Purses, such as we had formerly in England. So that they strive who shall have the fairest grain of Coral hanging at the end of the Silk-string that draws their Purses. For this reason a piece of Coral as big as an egg, fair and clean without any flaw, will produce what any man will ask in reason for it. The Portugueses have assured me they would sometimes give 20000 Crowns for such a piece. And no wonder they will give so much Money for a piece of Coral, who despising all other Jewels and Pearls, care for nothing but that which is in no esteem any where else. They set a great value upon the Skin of a certain Fish which is rougher than a Seal-skin. Upon the back of the Fish there are six little holes, and sometimes eight, somewhat elevated, with another in the middle; in the form of a Rose. They make Scabbards for Swords of the Skin; and the more those holes grow in the form of a Rose, the higher value they put upon them; having given ten-thousand Crowns for a Skin. To conclude the discourse of Coral, you must know that the meaner sort of people use it for Bracelets and Necklaces all over Asia, especially toward the Northern Territories of the Great Mogul; and all along the Mountains as you go to the Kingdom of Asen and Boutan. Yellow-Amber is only found upon the Coast of Prussia in the Baltick-Sea, where the Sea throws it upon the Sand when such and such winds blow. The Elector of Brandenburg, who is Sovereign of that Coast, farms it out for 20000 Crowns a year, and sometimes 22000. And the Farmers keep guards on both sides of the shore, in regard the Sea casts it up sometimes upon one side, and sometimes upon the other, to prevent the stealing of it. Amber is nothing but a certain congelation made in the Sea, like a certain Gum; for you shall find in several pieces, Flies, Gnats, and other infects congealed therein. I saw seven or eight Flies so congealed in one piece. In China, when any great Lord makes a Feast, it is for his Grandeur and Magnificence to cause three or four several sorts of Perfuming-pots to be set upon the Table, and to throw into every one of them a vast quantity of Amber; for the more it burns, and the bigger the pieces are, the more magnificent is the Entertainment accounted. The reason of this custom is, because they adore the fire; and besides, that the Amber casts forth a scent pleasing to the Chinese, there is a kind of Oil in it, that flames after a more unusual manner than other materials of fire. This waist of Amber makes it the best Commodity that could be imported into China, if the Trade were free for Strangers. At present the Hollanders have engrossed all this Trade to themselves, and the Chineses come all to Batavia to buy it. As for Ambergris; there is no person in the World that knows either what it is, or where, or how it is produced. But the fairest probability is, that it must be only in the Eastern-Sea: though some parcels have been found upon the Coast of England, and in some other parts of Europe. The greatest quantity is found upon the Coast of Melinda, but more especially in't he mouth of a River called Rio de Sena. The Governor of Mozambique gets in the three years of his Government above 300000 Pardo's of Ambergris, every Pardo containing 27 Sous of our Money. Sometimes they meet with very large and very considerable pieces. In the year 1627. a Portugal setting Sail from Goa to the Manilles, after he had past the Straight of Malacca, was by tempest driven near an unknown Island, where they came to an Anchor. Several of the Ship's-Company venturing ashore, met with a River; and going to bathe themselves in it, one of them found a great piece of Ambergris that weighed thirty-three pounds; but falling together by the ears about their shares, the Captain, to reconcile them, told them 'twas pity to deface it, in regard it was a Present fit for the King; and therefore advised them to present it to the Viceroy, who would no doubt reward them for their pains. By that means the Captain got the parcel out of their clutches, and presenting it to the Viceroy, got a reward for himself; and the Party that found it: but the rest had nothing at all. In the year 1646 or 1647, a Middleburgher of good quality found a piece of forty-two pounds upon the Coast of the Island of St. Maurice, where he commanded for the Holland-Company, East of the Island of St. Laurence, and sent it to Batavia: but there being a mark, as if some piece of it were broken off, the Zelander was accused to have taken half, and turned out of his Command, whatever he could say to justify himself. The Best Which yields Musk CHAP. XXII. Of Musk and Bezoar; and some other Medicinal Stones. THE best sort, and the greatest quantity of Musk, comes from the Kingdom of Boutan, from whence they bring it to Patna, the chief City of Bengala, to truck it away for other Commodities. All the Musk that is sold in Persia comes from thence. And the Musk-Merchants had rather deal with you for Coral and Yellow-Amber, than for Gold or Silver; in regard the other is more in esteem among the Natives where they live. I was so curious as to bring the Skin of one to Paris, of which I caused the figure to be cut. After they have killed the creature, they cut off the bladder that grows under the belly as big as an egg, nearer to the genital parts than to the navel. Then they take out the Musk that is in the bladder, which at that time looks like clottedblood. When the Natives would adulterate their Musk, they stuff the bladder with the liver and blood of the Animal sliced together, after they have taken out as much of the right Musk as they think convenient. This mixture in two or three years' time produces certain Animals in the bladder that eat the good Musk; so that when you come to open it, there is a great waist. Others, so soon as they have cut off the bladder, and taken out as much of the Musk, as that the deceit may not be too palpable, fill up the Vessel with little stones to make it weight. The Merchants are less displeased at this deceit than the former, by reason that they do not find the Musk to be eaten. But the deceit is harder to be discovered, when they make little Purses of the skin of the belly of the Beast, which they sow up with strings of the same skin, which are like the true bladders; and then fill those Purses with what they have taken out of the right bladders, and the other fraudulent mixture which they design to put among it. True it is, that should they tie up the bladder so soon as they cut it off, without giving it air or time to lose its force, the strength of the perfume would cause the blood to gush out of the nose, so that it must be qualified to render it acceptable, or rather less hurtful to the brain. The scent of the Beast which I carried to Paris, was so strong, that I could not keep it in my Chamber; for it made all people's heads ache that came near it. At length my Servants laid it in a Garret, and cut: off the bladder, and yet the scent remained very strong. This creature is not to be found in 65 degrees, but in 60 there are vast numbers, the Country being all over covered with Forests. True it is, that in the months of February and March, after these creatures have endured a sharp hunger, by reason of the great Snows that fall where they breed, ten or twelve foot deep, they will come to 44 or 45 degrees to fill them themselves with Corn and new Rice. And then it is that the Natives lay gins and snares for them to catch them as they go back: shooting some with Bows, and knocking others o'the heads. Some have assured me that they are so lean and faint with hunger at that time, that you may almost take them running. There must be surely a prodigious number of these creatures, none of them having above one bladder no bigger than a Hen's-egg, which will not yield above half an ounce of Musk: and sometimes three or four will not afford an ounce; and yet what a world of Musk is bought up? The King of Boutan fearing that the cheats and adulterations of Musk would spoil the Musk-Trade, ordered that none of the Bladders should be sewed up, but that they should be all brought to Boutan, and there, after due inspection, be sealed up with his Seal. Yet notwithstanding all the wariness and care of the King, they will sometimes cunningly open them, and put in little pieces of Lead to augment the weight. In one Voyage to Patna I bought 7673 bladders, that weighed 2557 ounces and an half; and 452 ounces out of the bladder. Bezoar comes from a Province of the Kingdom of Golconda toward the North-east. It is found among the ordure in the paunch of a wild-Goat, that browzes upon a certain Tree, the name whereof I have forgot. This shrub bears little buds, round about which, and the tops of the boughs, the Bezoar engenders in the maw of the Goat. It is shaped according to the form of the buds or tops of the branches which the Goats eat: which is the reason there are so many shapes of Bezoar-Stones. The Natives, by feeling the belly of the Goat, know how many Stones she has within, and sell the Goat according to the quantity. This they will find out by sliding their hands under their bellies, and then shaking both sides of the paunch; for the Stones will fall into the middle, where they may easily count them all by their feeling. The rarity of Bezoar is in the bigness; though the small Bezoar has the same virtue as that which is larger. But there is more deceit in the large Bezoar; for the Natives have got a trick to add to the bigness of the Stone, with a certain Paste composed of Gum, and something else of the colour of Bezoar. And they are so cunning too, to shape it just like natural Bezoar. The cheat is found out two ways; the first is by weighing the Bezoar, and then steeping it in warm water; if neither the water change colour, nor the Bezoar lose any thing of its weight, the Stone is right. The other way is to thrust a red-hot Bodkin of Iron into the Stone; if the Bodkin enters, and causes it to fry, there is a mixture. Bezoar is dearer according to the bigness of the Stones, advancing in price like Diamonds. For if five or six Bezoars weigh an ounce, an ounce will be worth fifteen or eighteen Franks; but if it be a Stone of one ounce, that very ounce is well worth 100 Franks. I have sold one of four ounces and a half for 2000 Livres. I have been very curious to inform myself of all things that concerned the nature of Bezoar; but could never learn in what part of the body of the Goat it was to be found. One time among the rest, having obliged several Native Merchants by putting off for them a great quantity of Bezoar; upon my request, though it be death without mercy to transport any of these Goats out of the Country, they brought me six Goats by stealth to my lodging. When I asked the price of them, I was surprised, when they told me one was worth but three Roupies; that the two other were worth four Roupies; and the three others four and three quarters a piece. I asked them why some were more worth than others; but I found afterwards that the first had but one Bezoar, that the rest had two, or three, or four. The six Goats had in all seventeen Bezoars in them, and a half one, as big as the half of a Hazelnut. The inside was like the soft ordure of the Goat, the Bezoar lying among the dung, which is in the belly of the Goat. Some averred that they grew right against the liver, others right against the heart, but I could never find out the truth. As well in the East, as West, there are a great quantity of Bezoars that breed in the same manner in Cows; of which there have been some that have weighed seventeen or eighteen ounces; For there was such a one that was given to the Great Duke of Tuscany. But those Bezoars are little esteemed, six grains of the other Bezoar working more powerfully than thirty of this. As for the Bezoar which breeds in Apes, as some believe, it is so strong, that two grains work as effectually as six of Goat's-Bezoar: but it is very scarce, as being only sound in those Apes that breed in the Island of Macassar. This sort of Bezoar is round, whereas the other is of several fashions, as I said before. As the Ape's Bezoar is stronger, and scarcer than the Goats, so it is dearer, and more sought after; a piece as big as a nut, being sometimes worth a hundred Crowns. The Portugals make great account of this Bezoar, standing always upon their guard for fear of being poisoned. There is another Stone in great esteem, that is called the Porcupine's-Stone, which that creature is said to carry in its head, and is more precious than Bezoar against poison. If it be steeped in water a quarter of an hour, the water becomes so bitter, that nothing can be more bitter. There is also a Stone sometimes found in the belly of that creature of the same nature; and as good as that which comes from the head; nevertheless with this difference, that being steeped in water, it loses nothing of its weight nor bulk, as the other does. I have bought in my time three of those Stones. One of them cost me 500 Crowns, and I exchanged it to advantage. I paid fourhundered Crowns for the other, which I keep: the other was sold me for 200 Crowns, which I presented to a friend. There is the Serpent-Stone not to be forgot, about the bigness of a double; and some are almost oval, thick in the middle, and thin about the sides. The Indians report that it is bred in the head of certain Serpents. But I rather take it to be a Story of the Idolater's Priests, and that the Stone is rather a composition of certain drugs. Whatever it be, it is of excellent virtue to drive any venom out of those that are bit by venomous creatures. If the person bitten be not much wounded, the place must be incised; and the Stone being applied thereto, will not fall off till it has drawn all the poison to it. To cleanse it, you must steep it in Woman's-milk, or for want of that, in Cows-milk; after the Stone has lain ten or twelve hours, the milk will turn to the colour of an Apostemated matter. The Archbishop of Goa carrying me to his Cabinet of Rarities, showed me one of these Stones: and after he had assured me of the rare qualities it had, he gave it me. Once as he crossed a Mersh in the Island of Salseté where Goa stands, one of the men that carried his Pallequis, béing half naked, was bit by a Serpent, and healed at the same time. I bought several; but there are none but the Bramines that sell them, which makes me believe that they compound them. There are two ways to try whether the Serpent-Stone be true or false. The first is, by putting the Stone in your mouth, for than it will give a leap, and fix to the palate. The other is, by putting it in a glass full of water; for if the Stone be true, the water will fall a boiling, and rise in little bubbles up to the top of the Glass. There is another Stone, which is called the Serpent's-Stone with the hood. This is a kind of Serpent that has a kind of a hood hanging down behind the head, as it is represented in the Figure. And it is behind this hood that the Stone is found, many times as big as a Pullet's-egg. There are some Serpents both in Asia and America of a monstrous bigness, 25 foot long; as was that, the skin whereof is kept in Batavia, which had swallowed a Maid of 18 years of age. These Stones are not found in any of those Serpents that are not at least two foot long. This Stone being rubbed against another Stone, yields a certain slime, which being drank in water by the person that has the poison in his body, powerfully drives it out. These Serpents are nowhere to be found but upon the Coasts of Mclinde; but for the Stones you may buy them of the Portugueze Mariners and Soldiers that come from Mozambique. CHAP. XXIII. Of the Places where they find their Gold both in Asia and America. JApon, which consists of several Islands Eastward of China, bending to the North, some people believing that Niphon, which is the biggest, is in a manner joined to the firm Land, is that Region of all Asia that yields the greatest quantity of Gold: Though others believe it is found in the Island of Formosa, and carried thence to Japon. For as long as the Hollanders have had the Island, they could never yet tell what is the Trade of that Coast, whence they believe the Gold comes. There comes also Gold from China, which the Chineses exchange for the Silver which is brought them. For price for price, they love Silver better than Gold; because they have no Silver-Mines. Yet it is the coarsest metal of all the Asiatic Gold. The Island of Celebes or Macassar produces Gold also, which is drawn out of the Rivers, where it rowls among the Sand. In the Island of Achen or Sumatra, after the rainy season, when the Torrents are wasted, they find veins of Gold in the Flints, which the waters wash down from the Mountains that lie toward the North-east. Upon the Westside of the Island, when the Hollanders come to lad their Pepper, the Natives bring them great store of Gold, but very corpse metal, if not worse than that of China. Toward the Thibet, which is the ancient Caucasus, in the Territories of a Raja, beyond the Kingdom of Cachemir, there are three Mountains close one by another, one of which produces excellent Gold, the other Granats, and the third Lapis-Lazuli. There is Gold also comes from the Kingdom of Tipra, but it is corpse, almost as bad as that of China; and these are all the places in Asia that produce Gold. I shall now say something of the Gold of Africa, and the places where it is found in greatest quantities. Observe by the way, that the Viceroy of Mozambique has under his Command the Governors of Sofala and Chepon-Goura. The first of these two Governments lies upon the River Seine, sixty leagues from the Mouth of the River; and the other ten leagues higher. From the Mouth of the River to those very places on each side of the River, great numbers of Negroes inhabit, which are all commanded by one Portugueze. The Portuguezes have been Masters of this Country for many years, where they take upon them like Lords, and make War one upon another for the slightest occasions in the World; some of them having under them five-thousand Cafres', which are their Slaves. The Governor of Mozambique furnishes them with Calicuts, and all other necessary Commodities which they want, which he sells them at his own rates. When he enters upon his Government he carries with him great quantities of all sorts of Commodities, especially Calicuts died black. His Correspondents also in Goa send him every year two Vessels, which he sends to Sofala, Chepon-Goura, and even as far as the City of Monomotopa, the chief City of a Kingdom of the same name, otherwise called Vouvebaran, distant from Chepon-Goura fifty leagues, or thereabouts. He that commands all that Country, assumes the name of Emperor of Monomotopa, extending his Dominions as far as the Confines of Prestor John's Country. From this Country of Monomotopa it is, that the most pure and finest Gold of all Africa comes: where they dig it with ease out of the earth, not being put to labour above two or three foot deep. In some places of that Country which are not inhabited by reason of the scarcity of water, the people find great pieces of Gold, of several forms and weights, upon the surface of the earth, some of which weigh an ounce. One I have by me that weighs an ounce and a half, or thereabouts. Being at Surat, I went to visit the Ambassador of the King of the Abyssins'. He showed us the Present which his Master had sent to the Great Mogul, consisting of fourteen stately Horses, the remainder of 30, the rest dying by the way; and a great number of Slaves of both Sexes. But what was most remarkable, was a natural Tree, all of Gold, two foot and four inches high, and six inches about in the stock. It had ten or twelve branches, some whereof shot out half a foot in length, and an inch about; others much smaller. In some parts of the great branches appeared certain bunches that resembled buds. The roots of the Tree, which were also natural, were thick and short; the longest not exceeding four or five inches. The Natives of Monomotopa knowing the time of the year that the Commodities arrive, come to Sofala and Chepon-Goura to furnish themselves. Thither also come the Cafres' of other Provinces and Kingdoms for the same purpose. Whereupon the Governors of those places sell them what they want, trusting them till the next year, when they oblige themselves to bring their Gold, which they are very punctual to do, for else there could be no Trade between them. The Natives of Monomotopa never live long, by reason of the badness of the waters in the Country: For at the age of five and twenty years they begin to be dropsical; so that it is a great wonder if any among them live above forty years. The Province where the River Seine has its head, is called Monkaran, and is under the Jurisdiction of a certain King, beginning a hundred leagues, or thereabouts, above Chepon-Goura. The people of that Country find great store of dust-Gold in the Rivers that fall into the Seine; but it is much coarser than the other, though they bring it to Chepon-Goura and Sofala. The Country is very healthy, and the people live as long as they do in Europe. Some years there are Cafres' that come from beyond the Province of Monkaran, even as far as the Cape of good Hope. The Portuguez have enquired after their Country, and the name; but they can tell no more, only that it is called Sabia, commanded by a King; and that they are four months generally travelling to Sofala. The Gold which they bring is very fine, and in pieces like that of Monomotopa, which they say they find in the high Mountains, digging only ten or twelve foot in the ground. They also bring great quantities of Elephants-teeths; wherewith, by their report, the Country does so abound, that you may see them in herds in the fields; and that all the Palisado's of their Fortresses, and the Pales of their Parks, are made of Elephants-teeths. Their usual Diet is Elephants-flesh; which four Cafres' will kill with their Ageagayes, or a sort of Half-pikes. The water of their Country is very bad, which is the reason that their thighs are swelled, and it is a wonder to see any one of them free. Beyond Sofala there is a Country commanded by a King who is called the King of Beroé. In some parts of his Country there grows a Root about an inch-thick, and of a yellow colour. It heals all sorts of Fevers, causing the Patient to vomit. But because it grows very scarce, the King strictly forbids his Subjects to export it. The taste of it is very bitter upon the tongue. As for Silver-Mines, there are none in all Asia but only in Japon; but some years since, at Delegora, Sangora, Bordelon and Bata, have been discovered plentiful Mines of Tin, to the great damage of the English, there being now enough in Asia of their own besides. CHAP. XXIV. The Relation of a Notable piece of Treachery, whereby the Author was abused when he Embarked at Gomrom for Surat. IN the Month of April 1665, being ready to departed from Gomrom for Surat, in a Vessel that belonged to a Holland-broker, commanded by a Holland-Captain, the English Agent gave me a Packet of Letters to deliver to the Precedent at Surat. The Packet was large, containing not only the Companies-Letters, but several private Letters to particular persons at Surat and other parts of India. This Packet I received in the presence of one Casembrot, a Hollander, who informed another Dutchman, whose name was Wauwuck, of it. Thereupon they presently contrived a design to seize this Packet, upon the report that ran of the rapture between England and Holland. Casembrot having seen the bigness of the Packet, gives Wauwuck a description of it, and so both together they contrive another of the same form and bigness as near as they could. When I came a-board, I took the English Packet, and locked it up in my Bouccha, which is the sort of Cloak-bag that is used in that Country, and laid it behind my Bolster. There were two Shallops sent a-board us, wherein there were sixty bags of Silver, containing some fifty, some a hundred Tomans a piece. These bags they unladed very leisurely to gain time, watching when I would be gone to bed. But when they saw that I did not go to rest, the Dutch consulted together, and agreed to let fall a bag of Tomans into the Sea; and so came all a-board, sending away a Shallop to Gomron for a Diver. When I found that the Vessel would not set Sail till two or three hours after daylight, I went to rest, my Bouccha lying in the same place, half out, and half with inside of my Bolster: But when my Servants were gone, and I alone and a-sleep in the Cabin, they cunningly stole my Bouccha, took out the English Packet, and left the other which they had counterfeited, in the place; being only so many Letters of blank-paper. Coming to Surat the sixth of May following, I gave the Packet, as I thought, which I had received from the English Agent at Gomron, to two Capuchin-Erlers to deliver to the Precedent at Surat. But when the Precedent came to open the Packet before several of the Company, there was nothing but white-paper made up in the form of Letters; which when I heard, too much to my sorrow, I understood the villainous trick that Van-Wuck had put upon me. I wrote a smart Letter of complaint to the Dutch-General in Batavia, but finding no redress, I was forced to undergo the hard censure of the English, who would not permit me to justify myself. However, as it is rare to see treachery go unpunished, the Complotters all died miserably. Van-Wuck fell into a violent Fevor, and being charged with the theft; thinking to defend himself with an equivocation, that if he took the Cloak-bag, he wished he might die without speaking a word, in three days ended his life just in the same manner, and at the same time that he had imprecated upon himself. Bozan his Lieutenant, after a great debauch, going to sleep upon the Terrace of the Cabin, where he lay for coolness, (there being no Balisters,) rolling and tumbling in his sleep, fell down, and the next day was found dead in the Sea. The Captain, four or five days after his arrival at Surat, being met in the Street by a Mahometan, who was jealous of his Wife, and being mistaken by him for one among several Franks, that had parted him, and kept him from correcting his Wife some few days before, was stabbed by him in three or four places with a Dagger, and killed him outright. And this was the end of those treacherous people. The End of the Second Book. TRAVELS IN INDIA. The Third Book. CHAP. I. Of the particular Religion of the Mahometans in the East Indies. THE diversity of Opinions among the Mahometans, does not consist in the different Expositions which they put upon the Alcoran; but in the contrariety of Belief which they received by Tradition from the first Successors of Mahomet. From thence there sprung two Sects, directly opposite: The one, which is called the Sect of the Sunnis, followed by the Turks; and the other of the Chiais, which is adhered to by the Persians. I will not enlarge myself upon these two Sects, that divide all Mahumetism; it being my design, only to tell you how the condition of that false Religion stands in the Empire of the Great Mogul, and in the Kingdoms of Golconda and Visapour. When Mahumetism was first brought into the Indies, there was an excess of pride, but no devotion among the Christians; and the Idolaters were an effeminate people, able to make little resistance; so that it was easy for the Mahometans to subdue both the one and the other by force of Arms, which they did so advantageously, that many, as well Christians as Idolaters, embraced the Mahometan Religion. The Great Mogul, with all his Court, follows the Sect of the Sunnis; the King of Golconda, that of the Chiais. In the King of Visapour's Territories the Sunnis and Chiais are mingled together; which may be said also of the Court of the Great Mogul, in regard of the great numbers of Persians that flock thither to serve in his Armies. True it is, that though they abhor the Sunnis, yet they adhere to the Religion of the Prince; holding it lawful for the preservation of their Estates to conceal their belief. As for what concerns the Kingdom of Golconda, Koutoub-Cha, the present King, very zealously maintains the Law of the Chiais; in regard the Grandees of his Court are almost all Persians. Aurengzeb testifies above all things an extraordinary devotion for the Sect of the Sunnis; of which he is so zealous an observer, that he surpasses all his Predecessors in outward profession; which was the Cloak under which he usurped the Crown. When he took possession of his Throne, he gave it out that he did it only out of a design to cause the Law of Mahomet to be more strictly observed, which had been very much neglected in the Reign of Sha-jehan his Father, and Gehanguir his Grandfather; and to show himself more zealous to the Law, he turned Faquir or Dervich, that is, poor Volunteer; and under that false pretence of Piety he cunningly made way to the Empire. And indeed though he has a great many Persians under his pay, yet he will not permit them to keep holy the day consecrated to the memory of Hosen and Heussin, the two Sons of Ali, who were put to death by the Sunnis; besides that they, to please him, are willing enough to conform. CHAP. II. Of the Faquirs, or poor Mahometan Volunteers in the East Indies. THey reckon that there are in the Indies eight hundred thousand Faquirs, and twelve hundred thousand Idolaters; which is a prodigious Number. They are all of them Vagabonds, and lazy Drones, that dazzle the eyes of the people with a false zeal, and make them believe that whatever comes out of their mouths is an Oracle. There are several sorts of Mahometan Faquirs. The one sort go almost naked, like the Idolatrous Faquirs, having no certain abode in the world, but giving themselves up to all manner of uncleanness. There are others whose Garments are of so many different pieces and colours, that a man can hardly tell of what they are made. These Garments reach down to the half Leg, and hid the rags that are underneath. They go generally in Troops; and have their Superior of the Gang, who is known by his Garment, which is generally poorer, and consists of more patches than the other. Besides, that he draws after him a great Iron Chain, which is tied to his Leg, and is about two els long, and proportionably thick. When he says his prayers, he does it with a loud voice, and rattling his Chain all the while, which is accompanied with an affected gravity, that draws the Veneration of the people. In the mean time the people prepare Dinner for him and his company, in the place where he takes up his stand, which is usually in some street or public place. There he causes his Disciples to spread certain Carpets, where he sets himself down to give audience to the people. On the other side, the Disciples go about publishing through the Country the virtues of their Master, and the favours he receives from God, who reveals his most important secrets to him, and gives him power to relieve persons in affliction by his counsel. The people, who give credit to him, and believe him to be a holy man, approach him with a great devotion, and when they come near him, they pull off their Shoes, and prostrate themselves to kiss his feet. Then the Faquir, to show his humility reaches out his hand to kiss; that done, he causes them that come to consult him, to sit down by him, and hears every one apart. They boast themselves to have a prophetic Spirit; and above all to teach barren women a way how to have Children, and to be beloved by whom they please. There are some of these Faquirs who have above two hundred Disciples, or more, which they assemble together by the sound of a Horn, or the Beat of a Drum. When they travel, they have their Standard, Lances, and other Weapons which they pitch in the ground, near to their Master, when he reposes in any place. The third sort of East Indian Faquirs, are those that being born of poor Parents, and desirous to understand the Law, to the end they may become Moulla's or Doctors, retire to the Mosques, where they live upon the Alms which is given them. They employ all their time in reading the Alooran, which they get by heart; and if they can but add to that study the knowledge of some natural things, and an exemplary life withal, they come to be chief of the Mosques, and to the dignity of Moullahs', and Judges of the Law. Those Faquirs have their Wives; and some, out of their great zeal to imitate Mahomet, have three or four; thinking they do God great service in begetting many Children to be followers of their Laws. CHAP. III. Of the Religion of the Gentiles, or Idolatrous Indians. THe Idolaters among the Indians are so numerous, that they are reckoned to be five or six for one Mahometan. It seems a wonderful thing, that such a prodigious multitude of men should be cowed by a handful, and bow so easily under the yoke of the Mahometan Princes. But that wonder well may cease, when we consider that those Idolaters are not in union among themselves; for Superstition has introduced such a diversity of Opinions and Customs, that they can never agree one with another. An Idolater will not eat Bread nor drink Water in the House of any one that is not of his Cast; though it be more noble, and much more superior to his own. Yet they all eat and drink in the Brahmins' Houses, which are open to all the world. A Cast among the Idolaters, is very near the same thing which was anciently called a Tribe among the Jews. And though it be vulgarly believed, that there are seventy-two Casts, yet I have been informed by some of their most ingenuous Priests, that they may be all reduced into four principal ones, from whence all the rest drew their Original. The first Cast is that of the Brammins, who are the Successors of the ancient brahmin's, or Indian Philosophers, that studied Astrology. You may also meet with some of their ancient Books, in reading whereof the Brammins spend all their time; and are so versed in their observations, that they never fail a minute in the Eclipses of the Sun and Moon. And to preserve this knowledge among themselves, they have a kind of University, in a City which is called Benarez, where they make all their Exercises in Astrology, and where they have Doctors that expound their Law, which they very strictly observe. But in regard they are so great a number, and cannot all come to study at that University, they are all very ignorant, and consequently very superstitious; those that go for the most refined Wits, being the greatest Sorcerers. The second Cast is that of the Raspoutes or Ketris, that is to say, Warriors and warlike people. These are the only Idolatrous Indians that have any courage to signalise themselves in War. All the rajas that I have so often mentioned, are of this Caste. These are so many petty Kings, whom their disunion has rendered Tributary to the Great Mogul. But in regard that the greatest part of them are in his service, they are highly recompensed by the large Salaries they receive for the small Tribute which they pay. These rajas, and the Raspoutes their Subjects, are the chiefest support of the Dominions of the Great Mogul; for indeed the rajas Jessing and Jessomseing were those that lifted up Aurengzeb to the Throne. But you must take notice, that all of this second Cast are not Warriors; for they are the Raspoutes only that go to War, and are all Horsemen. But for the Ketris, they are degenerated from their Ancestors, and of Soldiers are become Merchants. The third Cast is that of the Bannians, who are altogether addicted to Trade; of whom some are Sheraffs or Bankers, others brokers, employed between Merchant and Merchant for buying and selling. Those of this Cast are so subtle and nimble in Trade, that as I have said before, the Jews may be their Prentices. They accustom their Children betimes to fly idleness. And instead of suffering them to lose their time in playing in the streets, as we generally do, they teach them Arithmetic; which they are so perfect at, that without making use either of Pen and Ink, or Counters, but only of their memories, they will in a moment cast up the most difficult account that can be imagined. They always live with their Fathers, who instruct them in Trade, and do nothing but what they show them. If any man in the heat of passion chafe at 'em, they hear him patiently without making any reply, and parting coldly from him, will not see him again in three or four days, when they think his passion may be over. They never eat any thing that has life; nay they would rather die, than kill the smallest Animal or Vermin that crawls; being in that point above all things the most zealous Observers of the Law. They never fight, nor go to War; neither will they eat or drink in the House of a Raspoute, because they kill the Victuals they eat, all but Cows, which they never touch. The fourth Cast is that of the Charados or Soudras; who go to War as well as the Raspoutes, but with this difference, that the Raspoutes serve on Horseback, and the Charados on Foot. Both of them take it for an Honour to die in Battle; and let him be Horse or Foot, that Soldier is accounted infamous that retreats in Fight; 'tis an eternal blot in his Family. Upon which subject I will tell you a story. A Soldier who was passionately in love with his Wife, and reciprocally beloved by her, had fled from the fight, not so much out of any fear of death, as out of a consideration of the grief which it would occasion to his Wife, should he leave her a Widow. When she knew the reason of his flight, as soon as he came to the door, she shut it against him, and ordered him to be told, that she could never acknowledge that man for a Husband, who had preferred the Love of a Woman before his Honour; that she did not desire to see him any more, as being a stain to the Reputation of her Family; and that she would endeavour to teach her Children to have more courage than their Father. The Wife continuing firm to her resolution, the Husband to regain his Honour and her affection, returned to the Army, where he so behaved himself, that he became famous; and having highly made amends for his Cowardice, the door of his House was again set open, and his Wife received him with her former kindness. The rest of the Natives, that are not reckoned in the number of these Casts, are called Pauzecour. These are such as employ themselves in Handicraft Trades; among which there is no other distinction, but according to the Trades which they follow from Father to Son. So that a Tailor cannot prefer his Son, but only in his own Calling, though he be never so rich; nor marry either Son or Daughter, but to one of his own Craft. By the same rule, when a Tailor dies, all those of his own Trade accompany the Corpse to the place where it is burnt: and the same practice is observed in all other Trades. Among the particular Casts, there is one that goes by the name of Alecors, whose employment is only to clean Houses; for which every Family pays him something once a month, according to their proportion and quality. If a person of quality in the Indies keeps fifty Servants, let him be Mahometan or Idolater, there is not one of them will take a Bosom in his hand to sweep the House; for he would think himself affronted, it being one of the greatest scorns you can put upon an Indian, to call him Alacor. Besides, every one of those Servants knows his business; whether it be to carry the pot of Water to drink by the way, or to give his Master his Pipe of Tobacco when he calls for it; so that if the Master should bid one to do that which the other was appointed to do, that Servant would stand like a Statue, and never make him any answer. But for the Slaves, they are obliged to do what ever the Master commands them. These Alacors having no other business but only to make clean the Houses, eat the scraps of all the other Casts; and so without scruple feed upon any thing. There are none but those of this Tribe make use of Asses, to carry away the filth of the Houses into the Fields; for which reason none of the rest of the Indians will so much as touch that Animal; which is quite otherwise in Persia, as well for carriage, as to ride upon. Moreover, there are none of the other Indians, except the Alacors that will eat Pig. CHAP. IU. Of the Kings and Idolatrous Princes of Asia. THE chiefest of the Idolatrous Kings of Asia, are the King of Aracan, the King of Pegu, the King of Siam, the King of Cochinchina, and the King of Tunquin. As for the King of China, we know that he was an Idolater before the Tartars invaded his Dominions. But since that, we know not what to report of certainty, in regard that the Tartars who are now Masters of the Country, are neither Idolaters nor Mahometans, but rather both together. In the Islands, the King of Japon, the King of Ceylan, and some petty Kings of the Molucoa Islands are Idolaters; as are all the rajas as well in the Empire of the Great Mogul, as in the neighbouring Kingdoms of Visapour and Golconda. In a word, all the meaner sort of people, as well in the Territories of the Great Mogul, Kings of Golconda and Visapour, as in the Isles of Achan, Java, and Macassar, though their Kings are Mahumetans, are all themselves Idolaters. Some fifty years ago, one of the Kings of Ceylan became a Christian, and was baptised by the name of John, being called before the Emperor Priapender. But as soon as he had embraced the Christian Faith, the Princes and Priests of the Country set up another King in his room. He endeavoured all he could to bring his people to follow his example; to which purpose he assigned to the Father Jesuits, twelve large Villages about Colombo, for the bringing up the youth of the Country in their Colleges; to the end that they being well instructed, might instruct others. For the King made it plain to the Jesuits, that it was impossible for them so well to understand the Language of the Country, as to be able to preach to the Natives. Besides, that they found the ingenuities of the Youth of Ceylan so quick and apprehensive, that they learned more Latin, Philosophy, and other Sciences in six months, than the Europeans learned in a year; and that they put such subtle Questions to their Masters, as were beyond imagination. Some years after the King had professed Christianity, a witty man of the Island of Ceylan, and a good natural Philosopher, whose name was Alegamma Motiar, or the Master of the Philosophers, after he had conversed with the Jesuits and other Religious persons, was inspired to turn Christian. Thereupon he went to the Jesuits, and told them, that he desired to be a Christian; but withal he was very earnest to know what Jesus Christ had done, and lest in writing. They gave him the New Testament, which he set himself to read with that heed and study, that in less than six months there was hardly a passage which he could not repeat. After that he again testified to the Jesuits and other Religious persons, that he had a great desire to turn Christian, in regard he found their Religion to be such as Jesus Christ had taught; but only he wondered that they themselves did not follow his example. For that he could never find by his reading, that Jesus Christ ever took any money of any body; but that they took all they could get, and never baptised nor buried unless they were well paid. But though he started the Question, he was baptised, and afterwards became a sedulous converter of others. CHAP. V What the Idolaters believe touching a Divinity. THough the Idolatrous Indians attribute to the Creature, as to Cows, Apes, and several Monsters, those Divine Honours which are only due to the true Deity; yet they acknowledge one only Infinite God, Almighty, and only Wise, the Creator of Heaven and Earth, who fills all places with his presence. They call him in some places Permesser, in others Peremael, and Westnon among the Bramins that inhabit the Coast of Cormandel. It may be, because they have heard that the Circle is the most perfect of all Figures, therefore it is that they say God is of an Oval Figure; for they have in all their Pagods an Oval Flintstone, which they fetch from Ganges, and worship as a God. They are so obstinately wedded to this foolish imagination, that the wisest among the Bramins will not so much as hear any argument to the contrary. So that it is no wonder that a people led by such blind Guides, should fall into such Abysses of Idolatry. There is one Tribe so superstitious, in reference to that Article, that they carry those Oval Flints about their Necks, and thump them against their Breasts, when they are at their devotions. In this dark and lamentable mist of Ignorance, these Idolaters make their Gods to be born like men, and assign them Wives, imagining that theirs are the pleasures of men. Thus they take their Ram for a great Deity, in regard of the Miracles which they believe he wrought while he lived upon Earth. Ram was the Son of a potent Raja, who was called by the name of Deseret, and the most virtuous of all his Children, which he had by two lawful Wives. He was particularly beloved by his Father, who designed him to be his Successor. But the Mother of Ram being dead, the rajas other Wife, who had her Husband entirely at her beck, prevailed with him to exterminate Ram and his Brother Lokeman from his House, and all his Territories; upon whose exclusion the Son of that Wife was declared the rajas Successor. As the two Brothers were about to be gone, Ram's Wife Sita, of whom he went to take his leave, and whom the Idolaters worship as a Goddess, begged of him that she might not leave him, having made a resolution never to forsake him; whereupon they all three went together to seek their fortunes. They were not very successful at first; for as they passed through a Wood, Ram being in pursuit of a Bird, strayed from the Company, and was missing a long time; insomuch that Sita fearing that some disaster was befallen him; besought Lokeman to look after him. He excused himself at first, by reason that Ram had obliged him never to leave Sita alone, foreseeing by a Prophetic Spirit what would befall her, should she be left to herself. Nevertheless Lokeman being over persuaded by the prayers of his fair Sister, went to seek for Ram his Brother; but in the mean time Rhevan another of the Idolaters Gods, appeared to Sita in the shape of a Faquir, and begged an Alms of her. Now Ram had ordered Sita, that she should not stir out of the place where he left her; which Rhevan well knowing, would not receive the Alms which Sita presented him, unless she would remove to another place; which when Sita had done, either out of negligence or forgetfulness, Rhevan seized upon her, and carried her into the thick of the Wood, where his Train stayed for him. Ram at his return missing Sita, fell into a swoon for grief, but being brought again to himself by his Brother Lokeman, they two immediately went together in search of Sita, who was so dearly beloved by her Husband. When the Bramins repeat this Rape of their Goddess, they do it with tears in their eyes, and great demonstrations of sorrow; adding upon this subject, an infinite company of Fables more ridiculous, to show the great courage of Ram in pursuit of the Ravisher. They employed all Creatures living upon the discovery; but none of them had the luck to succeed, only the Monkey called Harman. He crossed over the Sea at one Leap, and coming into Rhevans Gardens, found Sita in the extremity of affliction; and very much surprised to hear an Ape speak to her in her Husband's behalf. At first she would not give any credit to such an Ambassador; but the Ape, to show that his Commission was authentic, presents her with a Ring which her Husband had given her, and that she had left behind her among her Furniture. She could hardly however believe so great a Miracle, as that Ram her Husband should make a Beast speak, to bring her the news of his health, and to testify, as he did, the marks of his affection. But the Ape Harman wrought Miracles himself, for being taken for a Spy by some of Rhevans Servants, who therefore would have burnt him, he made use of the fire which they had prepared to burn him, to set Rhevans Palace on fire, which he almost consumed to the ground, with all the tatters and rags which were tied to his tail and his body. When the Ape had thus done, the better to escape out of Rhevans hands, he took the same way he came, and repassing the Sea again at one jump, he came and gave Ram an account of his adventures; and told him in what a sorrowful condition he had found Sita, who did nothing but mourn by reason of her absence from her Husband. Ram touched with his Wife's affection, resolved to deliver her out of Rhevans hands, whatever it cost him; whereupon he raised Forces, and being guided by the Ape, at length he came to Rhevans Palace, that still smoked, the fire had been so great; and by reason that Rhevans Servants were dispersed, Ram had an easy opportunity to see his belov'd Sita again; whom Rhevan abandoned wholly to him, flying for fear to the Mountains. Ram and Sita were infinitely overjoyed at their coming together again, and returned very great Honours to Harman, who had done him so eminent service. As for Rhevan, he spent all the rest of his days like a poor Faquir, seeing his Country ruined by Ram's Troops, who was resolved to be revenged for the injury which he had received; and from this Rhevan it was, from whence that infinite multitude of Faquirs, that swarm all over India, first took their Original. CHAP. VI Of the Faquirs, or poor Volunteers among the Indians, and of their Pennances. THE Original of the Faquirs, as I said before, came from that Rhevan, whom Ram despoiled of his Kingdom; at which he conceived such an unspeakable sorrow, that he resolved to lead a Vagabond life, and to wander about the world, poor, stripped of all, and in a manner quite naked. He found a now to follow him in a course of life that gives them so much liberty. For being worshipped as Saints, they have in their hands all opportunities of doing evil. These Faquirs wander generally in Troops, every one of which has a Superior. And in regard they are quite naked, Winter and Summer lying upon the hard ground, when it is cold, the young Faquirs, and others that are most devout, go in the afternoon to seek for the dung of Cows and other Creatures, of which they make their fires. They rarely burn Wood, for fear of killing any living Animal which is wont to breed in it; and therefore the Wood wherewith they burn their dead, is only such as has floated long in the Water, which never breeds any sort of living Creature. The young Faquirs having got together a good quantity of dung, mixed with dry turf, make several fires, according to the bigness of the Company; round about every one of which the Faquirs seat themselves. When they grow sleepy, they lay themselves upon the ground, spreading the Ashes abroad, which serve them for a Mattress; without any other Canopy than that of Heaven. As for the Faquirs that do Penance, when they are laid down in the same posture as you see them in the day time, they kindle a good fire on each side of them, for otherwise they would not be able to endure the cold. The rich Idolaters account themselves happy, and their Houses to be filled with the benedictions of Heaven, when they have any of these Faquirs for their Guests, which the more austere they are, the more they honour: and it is the glory of the Troop to have one among them that does some considerable act of Penance. These Crews of Faquirs many time join together to go in Pilgrimage to the Principal Pagods, and public Washings, which they use upon certain days in the year in the River Ganges, whereof they make the chiefest account; as also in that which separates the Territories of the Portugals of Goa from the Dominions of the King of Vssapour. Some of the most austere Faquirs live in little pitiful Huts near their Pagods, where they have once in four and twenty hours something to eat bestowed upon them for God's sake. The Tree whereof I have given the description, is of, the same sort as that which grows near Gomron, which I have described in my Persian Relations. The Franks call it the Bannians-Tree, because in those places where those Trees grow, the Idolaters always take up their quarters, and dress their victuals under them. They have those Trees in great reverence, and ofttimes build their Pagods either under or very near them. That which the Reader sees here described, grows at Surat; in the trunk whereof, which is hollow, is the figure of a Monster, representing the face of a deformed Woman, which they say was the first Woman, whose name was Mamaniva; thither great numbers of Idolaters every day resort: near to which there is some Bramin or other always appointed to be ready to say Prayers, and receive the Alms of Rice, Millet, and other Grains which the charitable bestow upon them. The Bramin marks the forehead of all, both Men and Women, that come to pray in the Pagod, with a kind of Vermilion, wherewith he also besmears the Idol; for being thus marked, they believe the evil Spirit cannot hurt them, as being then under the protection of their God. Number I, is that part where the Bramins paint their Idols; such as Mamaniva, Sita, Madedina, and others; whereof they have a great number. Numb. 2, is the figure of Mamaniva, which is in the Pagod. Numb. 3, is another Pagod near the former. There stands a Cow at the door, and within stands the figure of their God Ram. Numb. 4, is another Pagod, into which the Faquirs, that do Penance, often retire. Numb. 5, is another Pagod dedicated to Ram. Numb. 6, is a Hut into which a Faquir makes his retirement several times a year, there being but one hole to let in the light. He stays there according to the height of his devotion, sometimes nine or ten days together, without either eating or drinking; a thing which I could not have believed, had I not seen it. My curiosity carried me to see one of those Penitents, with the Precedent of the Dutch-Company, who set a Spy to watch night and day whether any body brought him any victuals. But he could not discover any relief the Faquir had, all the while fitting upon his Bum like our Tailors, never changing his posture above seven days together, not being able to hold out any longer, by reason that the heat and stench of the Lamp was ready to stifle him. Their other sorts of Penance outdoing this, might be thought incredible, were there not so many thousand witnesses thereof. Numb. 7, is the figure of another Penitentiary, over whose head several years have past; and yet he never slept day nor night. When he finds himself sleepy, he hangs the weight of the upper part of his body upon a double-rope that is fastened to one of the boughs of the Tree; and by the continuance of this posture, which is very strange and painful, there falls a humour into their legs that swells them very much. The Figure of a Penitent as they are represented in little under the Banians great Tree. Numb. 9, is the posture of another Penitent, who every day for several hours stands upon one foot, holding a Chasing-dish in his hand, into which he pours Incense, as an Offering to his God, fixing his eyes all the while upon the Sun. Numb. 10 and 11, are the figures of two other Penitents sitting with their hands raised above their heads in the air. Numb. 12, is the posture wherein the Penitents sleep, without ever resting their arms; which is certainly one of the greatest torments the body of man can suffer. Numb. 13, is the posture of a Penitent, whose arms, through weakness, hang flagging down upon his shoulders, being dried up for want of nourishment. There are an infinite number of other Penitents; some who in a posture quite contrary to the motion and frame of nature, keep their eyes always turned toward the Sun. Others who fix their eyes perpetually upon the ground, never so much as speaking one word, or looking any person in the face. And indeed there is such an infinite variety of them, that would render the farther discourse of them more than tedious. True it is, that I have hid those parts which modesty will not suffer to be exposed to view. But they both in City and Country go all as naked as they came out of their Mother's wombs; and though the Women approach them to take them by the fingers-ends, and to kiss those parts which modesty forbids to name; yet shall you not observe in them any motion of sensuality; rather quite contrary, seeing them never to look upon any person, but rolling their eyes in a most frightful manner, you would believe them in an ecstasy. CHAP. VII. Of the Idolaters belief touching the estate of the Soul after death. 'TIS an Article of the Idolaters Faith, that the Souls of Men departing out of the body, are presented to God; who according to the lives which they lead, order them another body to inhabit. So that one and the same person is born several times into the World. And that as for the Souls of wicked and vicious persons, God disposes them into the bodies of contempt'ble Beasts, such as Asses, Dogs, Cats, and the like; to do Penance for their crimes in those infamous Prisons. But they believe that those Souls that enter into Cows are happy; presuming that there is a kind of divinity in those creatures. For if a man die with a Cows-tail in his hand, they say it is enough to render him happy in the other World. The Idolaters believing thus the transmigration of the Souls of men into the bodies of other creatures, they abhor to kill any creature whatever, for fear they should be guilty of the death of some of their kindred or friends doing Penance in those bodies. If the Men in their life-time are famous for their virtuous deeds, they hold that their Souls pass into the bodies of some Potent rajas: where they enjoy the pleasures of this life in those bodies, as the reward of those good works which they did. This is the reason why the Faquirs put themselves to such horrible Penances. But because that all are not able to endure so much torment in this World, they labour to supply the defect of that cruel Penance by good works. And besides, they charge their Heirs in their Wills to give Alms to the Bramins, to the end that by the powerful effect of their Prayers, their God may assign them the body of some Noble Personage. In January 1661., the Broker belonging to the Holland-Company, whose name was Mondas-Parek, died at Surat. He was a rich Man, and very charitable, giving his Alms very liberally as well to the Christians as to the Idolaters; the Capuchins at Surat living one part of the year upon the Rice, Butter and Pulse which he sent them. This Banian was not sick above four or five days; during all which time, and for eight days more after he was dead, his Brothers distributed nine or ten-thousand Roupies; and in the burning of his body they mixed Sandalwood, and Lignum-Aloes, with the ordinary wood, believing that by that means the Soul of their Brother transmigrating into another body, he would come to be some great Lord in another Country. There are some that are such fools that they bury their treasure in their life-time, as it is the usual custom of all the rich Men in the Kingdom of Asen; to the end that if they should be condemned to the body of some poor miserable person, they might have wherewithal to supply their necessities. I remember one day that I bought in India an Agate-Cup half a foot high; he that sold it me, assured me that it had been buried under ground above 40 years, and that he kept it to serve his occasions after death; but that it was to him a thing indifferent whether he buried his Cup or his Money. In my last Voyage I bought of one of these Idolaters sixty-two Diamonds, of about six grains apiece; and while I was wondering to see so fair a parcel, he told me I needed not to wonder; for he had been fifty years getting them together, to serve him after his death, but that having occasion for Money, he was forced to part with them. This buried treasure stood the Raja Seva-Gi in great stead, when he took Arms against the Great Mogul, and the King of Visapour. For that Raja having taken Callian Biondi, a small City in the Kingdom of Visapour, by the advice of the Bramins, who assured him he should find great store of treasure buried, caused the greatest part thereof to be demolished; and found so much wealth, as to maintain his Army, which was above thirty-thousand Men. It is impossible to convince these poor Idolaters of their errors; in regard they will hear no reason, but submit themselves altogether to their old forms and customs. CHAP. VIII. Of the Custom among the Idolaters to burn the Bodies of their Dead. THE custom of burning the Bodies of the dead is very ancient among the Gentiles; which Ceremony they most commonly perform by the banks of Rivers, where they wash the dead; which is the last purgation of them from their sins. Nay, their superstition is so great sometimes, that they will carry the sick person, death approaching, to the bank of some River or Pond, and put his feet in the water. As nature fails, they dip him deeper and deeper, till at length they hold him expiring up to the chin in the River: to the end that at the same time that the Soul departs out of the Body, both Body and Soul may be cleansed from all defilement; and then plunging the newly dead Body over head and ears, they bring it out, and burn it in the place appointed; which is generally near some Pagod. There are some persons that make it their business to fetch Wood, and agree what they shall have for their pains. An Idolater being dead, all those of his Cast or Tribe assemble together at the House of the deceased, and laying the Body upon a Beer covered with clean fine Linen according to his Quality and Estate, they follow the Beer, which is carried by such as are appointed for that purpose to the place where the Body is to be burned. As they go along they sing certain Prayers to their God, pronouncing several times the words Ram, Ram, while another going before the Beer, sounds a little Bell, to advertise the living to pray for the dead. The Body being set down by the bank of the River or Pond, they first plunge it into the water, and then they burn it. According to the quality of the deceased they also mingle with the ordinary wood Sandalwood, and other Sweet-woods. But the Idolaters do not only burn the Bodies of the dead, but the Bodies of the living. They scruple to kill a serpent, or a louse, but account it a meritorious thing to burn a living Wife with the Body of the deceased Husband. CHAP. X. How the Wives are burnt in India with the Bodies of their deceased Husbands. IT is also an ancient custom among the Indians, that the Husband happening to die, the Wife can never marry again. So that as soon as the Man is dead, the Wife retires to bewail her Husband; some days after that, they shave off her hair; she lays aside all the ornaments of her apparel; she takes off from her arms and legs the Bracelets which her Husband put on when he espoused her, in token of her submission, and her being chained to him: and all the rest of her life she lives slighted and despised, and in a worse condition than a Slave in the very House where she was Mistress before. This unfortunate condition causes them to hate life, so that they rather choose to be buried alive with the body of their deceased Husbands, then to live the scorn and contempt of all the World. Besides that, the Bramins make them believe, that in dying after that manner, they shall revive again with him in another World, with more honour and more advantages than they enjoyed before. These are the motives that persuade the Women to burn with their Husbands; besides that, the Priests flatter them with a hope, that while they are in the midst of the flames, before they expire, Ram will appear, and reveal wonderful visions to them; and that after their Souls have transmigrated into various Bodies, they shall at length obtain a high degree of Honour to eternity. However, there is no Woman that can burn with her Husband's body, till she has the leave of the Governor of the place where she inhabits, who being a Mahometan, and abhorring that execrable custom of Self-murder, is very shy to permit them. Besides, there are none but Widows that have no children, that lie under the reproach that forces them to violent death. For as for the Widows that have children, they are by no means permitted to burn themselves; but quite the contrary, they are commanded to live for the education of the children. Those Women whom the Governor will not permit to burn themselves, spend the rest of their lives in doing Penance, and performing works of Charity. Some make it their business to sit upon the Road to boil certain Pulse in water, and to give the liquor to Travellers to drink. Others sit with fire always ready for them to light their Tobacco. Others make vows to eat nothing but the undigested grains which they find in Cowdung. The Governor finding no persuasions will alter the Woman's resolution, but more especially perceiving by the sign which his Secretary makes him, that he has received the Coin, in a surly manner gives the Woman leave, bidding the Devil take her and all her kindred. When they have got this leave, their Music gins to strike up, and away they ding to the House of the deceased, with Drums beating, and Flutes playing before them; and in that manner they accompany the person that is to be burnt, to the place appointed. All the kindred and friends of the Widow that is to die, come to her, and congratulate her for the happiness she is to enjoy in the other World: and for the honour which the Cast she is of receives by her generous resolution, she dresses herself as she were going to be married, and she is conducted in triumph to the place of execution. For the noise is loud of Musical Instruments, and women's Voices, that follow her singing Songs in honour of the miserable creature that is going to die. The Bramins that accompany her, exhort her to give public testimonies of her constancy and courage: and many of our Europeans are of opinion, that to take away the fears of death, which naturally terrifies humanity, the Priests do give her a certain Beverage to stupify and disorder the senses, which takes from her all apprehension of her preparations for death. 'Tis for the Brahmins' interest that the poor miserable creatures should continue in their resolutions; for all their Bracelets as well about their legs as their arms, the Pendents in their ears; their Rings sometimes of Gold, sometimes of Silver; (for the poor wear only Copper and Tin,) all these belong to the Bramins, who rake for them among the ashes when the party is burned. I have seen Women burnt after three several manners, according to the difference of the Country. In the Kingdom of Guzerat, as far as Agra and Dehli, they set up a little Hut about twelve foot square upon the bank of a Pond or River. 'Tis made of Reeds, and all sorts of small Wood, with which they mingle certain pots of Oil and other Drugs to make it burn more vehemently. The Woman is placed in the middle of the Hut, in a half-lying-down posture, leaning her head upon a kind of a wooden Bolster and resting her back against a Pillar, to which the Bramin ties her about the middle, for fear she should run away when she feels the fire. In this posture she holds the body of her deceased Husband upon her knees, chewing Betlé all the while: and when she has continued in this posture about half an hour, the Bramin goes out, and the Woman bids them set fire to the Hut; which is immediately done by the Bramins, and the kindred and friends of the Woman; who also cast several pots of Oil into the fire, to put the Woman the sooner out of her pain. After the Woman is burnt, the Bramins search the ashes for all her Bracelets, Pendants and Rings, whether Gold, Silver, Copper or Tin, which is all free booty to themselves. In Bengala they burn the Women after another fashion. In that Country a Woman must be very poor that does not accompany the Body of her deceased Husband to the Ganges to wash his Body, and to be washed herself before she is burnt. I have seen dead Carcases brought to the Ganges above twenty days journey off from the place, and smelled 'em to boot; for the scent of them has been intolerably noisome. There was one that came from the Northern Mountains near the Frontiers of the Kingdom of Boutan, with the body of her Husband carried in a Wagon; she travelled twenty days afoot, and neither eat nor drank for 15 or 16 days together till she came to the Ganges, where after she had washed the body that stank abominably, and had afterwards washed herself, she was burnt with him with an admirable constancy. Before the Woman that is to be burnt, goes the Music, consisting of Drums, Flutes and Hautboys, whom the Woman in her best Accoutrements follows, dancing up to the very Funeral-pile, upon which she gets up, and places herself as if she were sitting up in her Bed; and then they lay across her the body of her Husband. When that is done, her kindred and friends, some bring her a Letter, some a piece of Callcut, another pieces of Silver or Copper, and desire her to deliver them to their Mother, or Brother, or some other Kinsman or Friend. When the Woman sees they have all done, she asks the Standers-by three times, if they have nothing more of service to command her; if they make no answer, she ties up all she has got in a piece of Taffeta, which she puts between her own belly, and the body of her Husband, bidding them to set fire to the Pile; which is presently done by the Bramins and her Kindred. I have observed, because there is scarcity of Wood in Bengala, that when these poor Creatures are half griddled, they cast their bodies into the Ganges, where the remains are devoured by the Crocodiles. I must not forget a wicked custom practised by the Idolaters of Bengala. When a Woman is brought to bed, and the Child will not take to the Teat, they carry it out of the Village, and putting it into a Linen Cloth, which they fasten by the four Corners to the Boughs of a Tree, they there leave it from morning till evening. By this means the poor Infant is exposed to be tormented by the Crows, insomuch that there are some who have their eyes picked out of their heads: which is the reason that in Bengala you shall see many of these Idolaters that have but one eye, and some that have lost both. In the evening they fetch the child away, to try whether he will suck the next night; and if he still refuse the teat, they carry him again to the same place next morning; which they do for three days together; after which, if the Infant after that refuses to suck, they believe him to be a Devil, and throw him into Ganges, or any the next Pond or River. In the places where the Apes breed, these poor Infants are not so exposed to the Crows; for where the Ape discovers a Nest of those Birds, he climbs the Tree, and throws the Nest one way, and the Eggs another. Sometimes some charitable people among the English, Hollanders, and Portugals, compassionating the misfortune of those Children, will take them away from the Tree, and give them good education. All along the Coast of Coromandel, when the Women are to be burnt with their Husbands, they make a great hole in the ground nine or ten foot deep, and twenty-five or thirty foot square, into which they throw a great quantity of Wood and Drugs to make the fire burn more fiercely. When the fire is kindled, they set the body of the man upon the brink; and then presently up comes the Woman dancing and chewing Betlé; accompanied by her Friends and Kindred, with Drums beating, and Flutes sounding. Then the Woman takes three turns round the hole, and every time she has gone the round, she kisses her Friends and Kindred. After the third time the Bramins cast the Carcase of her Husband into the flame; and the Woman standing with her back to the fire, is pushed in by the Bramins also, and tumbles backward. Then her Kindred and Friends cast Oil and other combustible Drugs upon the fire, to make it burn more vehemently, that the Bodies may be the sooner consumed. In most places upon the Coast of Coromandel, the Women are not burnt with their deceased Husbands, but they are buried alive with them in holes which the Bramins make a foot deeper than the tallness of the man and woman. Usually they choose a Sandy place; so that when the man and woman are both let down together, all the Company with Baskets of Sand fill up the hole above half a foot higher than the surface of the ground, after which they jump and dance upon it, till they believe the woman to be stifled. When some of the Idolaters upon the Coast of Coromandel are upon the point of death, their Friends do not carry them to the side of a River or Lake to cleanse their Souls, but they carry them to the fattest Cow they can find; and laying the sick party just behind the Cow, they lift up her Tail, and provoke her to piss. If she piss, so that it falls upon the face of the sick party, all the Company are overjoyed, saying, that his Soul is happy. But if the Cow do not piss, to wash the sick party's face, they burn him with a great deal of sadness. If a Cow be sick, the owner must be careful to lead her to a Pond or River; for should she die at his House, the Bramins would fine him. CHAP. X. Remarkable Stories of Women that have been burnt after their Husband's decease. THE Raja of Vilou having lost his City and his life, through the loss of a Battle gained against him by the King of Visapour's General, he was extremely lamented at Court. Eleven of his Wives also were no less concerned for his death, and resolved to be burnt when his Body was burned. The General of Visapour's Army understanding their resolution, thought at first to divert them, by promising them all kind usage. But finding persuasions would not prevail, he ordered them to be shut up in a Room. He who had the order, going to put it in execution, the Women in a rage told him, that 'twas to no purpose to keep them Prisoners, for if they might not have leave to do what they had resolved, in three hours there would not one of them be alive. The person entrusted, laughed at their threats; but the Keeper of those women opening the door at the end of the three hours, found them all stretched out dead upon the place, without any mark in the world to be seen that they had any way hastened their own deaths. Two of the most potent rajas of India came to Agra in the year 1642, to do homage to Sha-jehan, who then reigned; who not having acquitted themselves as they ought to have done, in the judgement of the Grand Master of the King's Household, he told one of the rajas one day, in the presence of the King, that they had not done well, to behave themselves in that manner toward so great a Monarch, as was the King his Master. The Raja looking upon himself to be a great King, and a great Prince, he and his Brother having brought along with them a Train of 15 or 16000 thousand Horse, was nettled at the bold reproof which the Grand Master gave him, and drawing out his Dagger, slew him upon the place, in the presence of the King. The Grand Master falling at the feet of his own Brother, who stood close by him, he was going about to revenge his death, but was prevented by the rajas Brother, who stabbed him, and laid him athwart his Brother's Body. The King, who beheld these two murders one upon the neck of the other, retired into his Haram for fear. But presently the Omrahs' and other people fell upon the rajas, and cut 'em to pieces. The King incensed at such an attempt committed in his House and in his presence, commanded the rajas bodies to be thrown into the River; which their Troops that they had left about Agra understanding, threatened to enter the City and pillage it. But rather than hazard the City, the King was advised to deliver them the Bodies of their Princes. When they were to be burned, thirteen Women belonging to the two rajas Houses, came dancing and leaping, and presently got upon the Funeral pile, holding one another by hands, and being presently after stifled with the smoke, fell together into the fire. Presently the Bramins threw great heaps of Wood, pots of Oil, and other combustible matter upon them, to dispatch them the sooner. I observed a strange passage at Patna, being then with the Governor, a young Gentleman of about twenty-four years of age, in his own House. While I was with him, in came a young woman, very handsome, and not above two and and twenty years old, who desired leave of the Governor to be burnt with the Body of her deceased Husband. The Governor compassionating her youth and beauty, endeavoured to divert her from her resolution; but finding he could not prevail, with a surly countenance, he asked her whether she understood what the torment of fire was, and whether she had ever burnt her fingers? No, no, answered she more stoutly than before, I do not fear fire, and to let you know as much, send for a lighted Torch hither. The Governor abominating her answer, in great passion bid her go to the Devil. Some young Lords that were with the Governor, desired him to try the woman, and to call for a Torch; which with much ado he did, and a lighted Torch was brought. So soon as the woman saw the lighted Torch coming, she ran to meet it, and held her hand in the flame, not altering her countenance in the least; still searing her arm along up to the very elbow, till her flesh looked as if it had been broiled; whereupon the Governor commanded her out of his sight. A Bramin coming to Patna, and assembling all his Tribe together, told them, that they must give him two thousand Roupies, and twenty-seven els of Calicut. To which the chief among them made him answer, that they were poor, and could not possibly raise such a sum. However he persisted in his demand, positively affirming to them, that he would stay there without eating or drinking till they brought him the Money and the Cloth. With this resolution he climbed a Tree, and setting in the fork between the boughs, remained there without eating or drinking for several days. The noise of this extravagance coming to the ears of the Hollanders where we lay, we set Sentinels to watch whether it were true, that a man could set so long without victuals, which he did for thirty days together. The one and thirtieth day of such an extraordinary Fast, the Idolaters fearing to kill one of their Priests for want of granting him his demand, clubbed together, and brought him his twenty-seven els of Calicut, and two thousand Roupies. So soon as the Bramin saw the Money and the Cloth, he came down from the Tree; and after he had upbraided those of his Tribe for want of Charity, he distributed all the Roupies among the poor, reserving only five or six for himself. The Cloth he cut into little pieces, and gave away, keeping only to himself enough to cover his own nakedness; and having made this distribution, he disappeared of a sudden, and nobody knew what became of him, though diligent search was made after him. When a Chinese lies at the point of death, all his Kindred and Friends gather about him, and ask him whether he intends to go; they tell him also, that if he want any thing, he need but only ask and have, let it be Gold, Silver, or a Woman. When they are dead they perform many Ceremonies at their Funerals, which consists chief in artificial fires, wherein the Chineses are the most expert in the world; so that he must be a very poor man that has no fireworks at his Funeral. Besides that, they put Money in a little Box, and bury it by the deceased; and leave good store of victuals upon the Grave, out of an opinion that they rise and eat. Which the Soldiers of Batavia observing, used to fill their Bellies at these Graves every time they walked their rounds. But when the Chineses perceived it, they poisoned the victuals to spoil the Dutchman's feasting. The Townsmen of Batavia taking the Soldier's part, accused the Chineses for poisoning several of the Dutch. But the Chineses pleaded, that if the Soldiers had overeat themselves, or surfeited themselves upon what was left for the dead to eat, 'twas none of their fault; for that they did not leave their victuals for the Soldiers; and besides that, among all the multitudes which they had buried, they never had heard the least complaint before of any one that ever came by any harm by eating their food. Thus the business was hushed over; nor did the Soldiers dare to pilfer any more. CHAP. IX. Of the most celebrated Pagods of the Idolaters in India. THE Indian Idolaters have a great number of Temples, small and great, which they call Pagods, where they pray to their Gods, and make their Offerings. But the poor people that live in the Woods and Mountains, and remote from Towns, are contented only with some stone, whereon they make a rude kind of Nose, and paint it with some Vermilion colour, which serves all the whole neighbourhood to worship. The four most celebrated Pagods, are Jagrenate, Banarous, Matura, and Tripeti. Jagrenate is one of the mouths of Ganges, whereupon is built the Great Pagod, where the Arch Bramin, or chief Priest among the Idolaters keeps his residence. The great Idol that stands upon the Altar in the innermost part of the Pagod, has two Diamonds for his Eyes, and another that hangs about his neck, the least of those Diamonds weighing about forty Carats. About his Arms he wears Bracelets sometimes of Pearls, and sometimes of Rubies; and this magnificent Idol is called Resora. The Revenues of this Pagod are sufficient to feed fifteen or twenty thousand Pilgrims every day; which is a number often seen there, that Pagod being the greatest place of devotion in all India. But you must take notice, that no Goldsmith is suffered to enter this Pagod, because that one of them being locked in all night long, stole a Diamond out of one of the Idols eyes. As he was about to go out, when the Pagod was opened in the morning, he died at the door; their God, as they affirm, revenging his own sacrilege. That which renders this Pagod, which is a large building, the most considerable in all India, is, because it is situated upon the Ganges; the Idolaters believing that the waters of that River have a particular quality to cleanse them from their sins. That which makes it so rich (for it maintains above twenty thousand Cows) is the vast Alms that are continually bestowed by so incredible a multitude as comes from all parts. Which Alms are not so much at the discretion of the Donor, as at the will of the chief Priest, who before he gives them leave to shave and wash in Ganges, taxes them according to their quality, of which he has information. Thus he collects vast sums, of which he makes little or no profit himself; all going to feed the poor, and the repair of the Pagod. The chief Bramin causes Victuals to be distributed to the Pilgrims every day; as Milk, Rice, Butter, and Wheat; but to the poor, who want wherewithal to cook it, they distribute their food ready dresst. In the morning they boil a quantity of Rice in Earthen pots of different bigness; and at the hour when the Pilgrims come for their meat, the chief Bramin order another Bramin to take a pot of boiled Rice; this pot he lets fall; and if there be five, the pot breaks into five equal parts, and every one takes his own share. And in the same manner he breaks it into more pieces, if there be more persons, to whom he is to distribute the food. Which is a thing very strange and worthy observation. They never boil twice in an Earthen pot; but in a Copper pot; nor have they any other Dishes, than only certain Leaves, which they fasten together, and a certain kind of a Basin, about a foot in compass, wherein they melt their Butter, and stir the Rice with the ends of their fingers when they eat. They have also a kind of a Shell, wherein they pour their melted Butter, which they will swallow down, as we do Sack. Now for the description of a particular Idol which stands upon the Altar in the Pagod of Jagrenate: It is covered from the Shoulders downward with a great Mantle that hangs down upon the Altar. This Mantle is of Tissue of Gold or Silver, according to the Solemnities. At first it had neither feet nor hands; but after one of their Prophets was taken up into Heaven, while they were lamenting what to do for another, God sent them an Angel in the likeness of that Prophet, to the end they might continue their Veneration toward him. Now while this Angel was busy in making this Idol, the people grew so impatient, that they took him out of the Angels hands, and put him into the Pagod without hands or feet; but finding that the Idol appeared in that manner too deformed, they made him hands and arms of those small Pearls which we call Ounce-Pearls. As for his feet, they are never seen, being hid under his Cloak. There is no part open but his hands and feet; the head and body being of Sandalwood; round about the Duomo, under which this Idol stands, being very high, from the bottom to the top, are only Niches filled with other Idols; the greatest part whereof represent most hideous Monsters, being all of different colours. On each side of this Pagod, there stands another much less, where the Pilgrims make their lesser Offerings. And some that have in sickness, or upon business made any Vows to any Deity, bring thither the resemblance thereof in remembrance of the good which they have received. They rub this Idol every day with sweet Oils, that make it of a black colour. And at the right hand of this Idol sits his Sister, who stands upon her feet, and is well clad, being called by the name of Sotora; upon his left, stands his Brother, clothed all over also; whom they call Balhader. Before the Idol, somewhat toward his left hand, stands the Idols Wife upon her feet, all of massy Gold, by the name of Remin; whereas the other three are only of Sandalwood. The two other Pagods are appointed for the residence of the chief Bramin, and other Bramins that officiate in the great Pagod. All these Bramins go with their heads bare, and for the most part shaved; having no other clothes but only one piece of Calicut, with one half whereof they cover their bodies; the other part serves them instead of a Scarf. Near the Pagod stands the Tomb of one of their Prophets, whose name was Cabir, to whom they give great honour. You are to take notice also, that their Idols stand upon a kind of Altar, encompassed with Iron Bars. For no persons are to touch them, but only certain Bramins, appointed for that service by the chief Bramin. Next to that of Jagrenate, the most famous Pagod is that of Banarous, being also seated upon the Ganges, in a City that bears the same name. That which is most remarkable is, that from the Gate of the Pagod to the River there is a descent all of Stone; near to which are certain Platforms, and small blind Chambers, some for the Brahmins' lodging, others where they dress their victuals; for so soon as the Idolaters have said their Prayers, and made their Offerings, they dress their food, not suffering any person to touch it but themselves, for fear lest any unclean person should come near it. But above all things, they passionately desire to drink of Ganges water; for as often as they drink it, they are washed, as they believe, from all their sins. Great numbers of these Bramins go every day to the cleanest part of the River, where they fill their little round earthen-pots full of water, the mouths whereof are very small, and contain every one of them a Bucket-full. Being thus filled, they bring them before the great Priest, who covers them with a fine piece of flame-coloured Calicut, three or four times doubled, to which he sets his Seal. The Bramins carry these pots, some six of them tied together with six little cords fastened to the end of a stick as broad as a lath, shifting their shoulders often; travelling sometimes three or four hundred leagues with those precious burdens up into the Country. Where they sell it, ro present it; but that is only to the rich, from whence they expect great rewards. There are some of these Idolaters, who when they make any great Feast, especially when they marry their children, will drink four or five-hundred Crowns in this water. They never drink of it till the end of their meals; and then a glass or two according to the liberality of the Master of the Feast. The chief reason why they esteem the water of Ganges so highly, is, because it never putrifies, nor engenders any vermin; though I know not whether they may be believed, considering the great quantity of dead bodies which they fling into the Ganges. The body of the Pagod of Banarous is made like a Cross, as are all the rest of the Pagods, the four parts whereof are equal. In the midst there is a Cupola raised very high, the top whereof is pyramidal; at the end also of every four parts of the Cross there is a Tower, to which there is an ascent on the outside. Before you come to the top, there are several Balconies and Niches wherein to take the fresh air: and round about are figures of all sorts of creatures, but very Lewd work. Under the Duomo, in the middle of the Pagod there is an Altar, like a Table, eight foot long, and six foot broad, with two steps before, that serve for a footstool, which is covered sometimes with a rich Tapestry, sometimes with Silk, sometimes with Cloth of Gold or Silver, according to the solemnity of their Festival. Their Altars are covered with Cloth of Gold or Silver, or else with some painted Calicuts. Approaching the entry of the Pagod, you see the Altar right before ye, together with the Idols which are upon it. For the Women and Virgins worship without, not being permitted to enter the Pagod, no more than is a certain Tribe which is among them. Among the Idols that stand upon the great Altar, there is one placed upright some five or six foot high; but you can see neither arms, nor legs, nor body: nothing appears but the head and neck, all the rest being covered down to the Altar with a Robe that spreads itself below. Sometimes you shall see the neck set out with some rich Chain either of Gold, Rubies, Pearls, or Emeralds. This Idol was made in honour and likeness of Bainma-dou, who was heretofore a very great and holy Personage among them, whose name they often have in their mouths. Upon the rightside of the Altar stands the figure of a Chimaera, part Elephant, part Horse, part Mule. It is of massive Gold, and they call it Garou, not suffering any person to approach it but the Bramins. They say it is the resemblance of the Beast which carried that holy person when he lived upon earth. And that he travelled long journeys upon his back, to see if the people remained in their duty, and whether they did no wrong one to another. Between the great Gate and the great Altar upon the lefthand, there is a little Altar, upon which there stands an Idol of black Marble sitting crosslegged, about two foot high. While I was there, a little Boy who was the Son of the Highpriest stood upon the left-side of the Altar, and all the people threw him certain pieces of Taffeta, or embroidered Calicut, like Handkerchiefs, all which he returned to the people again after he had wiped them upon the Idol. Others threw him Bracelets of Coral, others of yellow Amber, others threw him fruits and flowers; whatever they threw him, he rubbed it upon the Idol, put it to his lips, and then restored it to the people. This Idol is called Morli-Ram, that is to say God-Morli, and was the Brother of him that stands upon the great Altar. Under the Portal of the Pagod sits one of the principal Bramins with a great Basin by him, full of a yellow colour mixed with water. All these poor Idolaters come and present themselves before him, who gives them a mark from between the eyes to the top of the nose, then upon the arms, and upon the stomach; by which marks they know who have washed themselves in Ganges, and who not. Those that never washed themselves but in the waters of their own Wells, or have only sent for it from the River, they do not believe to be perfectly purified, and by consequence they are not to be marked with that colour. By the way take notice, that these Idolaters are marked with different colours, according to the Tribe they are of. But in the Empire of the Great Mogul, they who are painted with yellow compose the biggest Tribe, and are the least defiled. For when they are necessitated to the deeds of nature, some think it not enough to wash the part defiled; but they first rub the part with a handful of sand, and then scour it with water. After so doing, they affirm their bodies to be clean, and that they can eat their food without fear. Near to this great Pagod upon the Summer-west, stands a kind of a College, which the Raja Jessing, the most Potent of all the Idolaters in the Mogul's Empire, built for the education of the youth of the better sort. I saw two of the children of that Prince there at School, who had for their Master's several Bramins, who taught them to write and read in a language peculiar to the Idolaters Priests, and far different from the speech of the common people. Entering into the Court of that College, and casting my eyes up, I discovered two Galleries that went round the Court, where I saw the two Princes sitting, attended by several petty Lords and Bramins, who made several Mathematical Figures upon the ground with chalk. The two Princes seeing me, sent to know who I was; and understanding that I was a Frank, they sent for me up, and asked me several questions touching Europe, and particularly touching France. Whereupon there being two Globes in the room which the Hollanders had given the Bramins, I showed the Princes where France lay upon one of them. After I had taken leave, I asked one of the Bramins when I might see the Pagod open: he answered me, the next morning before Sunrising. When I came there, I observed before the door, a Gallery supported with Pillars, where there was already a great crowd of men, women and children expecting when the Pagod would be opened. By and by, the Gallery, and a great part of the Court being full, there came eight Bramins, four of each side of the Gate, with every one a Censer in his hand, followed by a rabble of other Bramins that made a hideous noise with Drums and other Instruments. The two eldest of the Bramins sing a Song; and then all the people, falling into the tune, fall a singing and playing, with every one a Peacock's-tall, or some other kind of flabel, to drive away the flies, that the Idol may not be annoyed when they open the Pagod. This fanning, and the Music, lasted a good half hour. Then the two principal Bramins made a great noise three times with two little Bells, and with a kind of a Mallet knocked at the Pagod-door. Which was presently opened by six Bramins within, discovering, some six or seven paces from the entrance, an Altar with an Idol upon it, which they call Ram, Ram, the Sister of Morli-Ram. Upon her right-hand she has a child made like a great Cupid, which they call the God La-kemin, and in her left-arm a little Girl, which they call the Goddess Sita. So soon as the Pagod was open, and that a great Curtain was drawn, the people, who perceived the Idol, fell upon the ground, laying their hands upon their heads, and prostrating themselves three times. Then rising up, they threw great quantities of Nosegays and Garlands to the priests; with which the Bramins touched the Idol, and then restored them again. Before the Altar stood a Bramin, who held in his hand a lamp of nine weeks lighted, upon which he cast Incense every foot, and then held it to the Idol. All these ceremonies lasted above an hour; after which the people departed, and the Pagod was shut. They presented the Idol with great store of Rice, Meal, Butter, Oil, and Milk-meats, of which the Bramins lose nothing. Now in regard this Idol is the representation of a Woman, the Women all invoke it, and call her their Patroness: which is the reason that the place is generally crowded with Women and Maids. The Raja, to have this Idol in the Pagod of his own house, and for taking it out of the great Pagod, has expended as well upon the Bramins, as in alms to the poor, above five Lacres of Roupies, or 750000 Livres of our Money. On the other side of the Street where the College is built, there stands another Pagod, called Richourdas, from the name of the Idol, which is within upon the Altar: and somewhat lower upon another small Altar stands another Idol, which they call Goupaldas, the Brother of Richourdas. You see nothing but the face of all these Idols, which is either of wood or jet; unless it be the Idol of Morly-Ram, which stands in the great Pagod stark naked. As for the Idol Ram-Kam, which stands in the rajas Pagod, it has two Diamonds instead of eyes, which the Prince caused to be set there, with a Choler of Pearl, and Canopy over his head, supported with four Silver-Pillars. Some eight days journey from Banarous, bending Northward, you enter into a Mountainous Country; but which sometimes opens itself into very large plains, sometimes three or four leagues in length. They are very fertile in Corn, Rice, Wheat and Pulse. But that which is the plague and ruin of the people of that Country, is the vast number of Elephants that breed there, and devour their Harvest. If a Caravan pass through any part of that Country where there are no Inns, in regard the people are forced to lie in the open Fields, they have much ado to defend themselves from the Elephants that will come to take away their provisions. To scare them, the people make great fires, shoot off their Muskets, hooping and hollowing ever and anon. In this place there is another Pagod, well-built, and very ancient, adorned with many figures both within and without, which are only the representations of Maids and Women; so that Men are seldom known to repair thither for devotion's-sake; and therefore it is called the women's Pagod. There is an Altar in the middle, as in other Pagods; and upon the Altar an Idol of massy Gold, four foot high, representing a Maid standing upright, which they call Ram-Marion. At her right-hand stands a Child of massy Silver, about two foot high; and they say that the Maid lived a very holy life, that that Child was brought to her by the Bramins to be instructed in her belief, and in the knowledge of well-living: but that after two or three years that the Child had lived with her, the Infant grew so knowing and ready-witted, that all the rajas of the Country longed for her company; so that being stolen from her one night, she was never seen afterwards. Upon the lefthand of this Idol stands another Idol, representing an old Man; who, as they say, was the servant of Ram-Marion and the Infant: for which reason the Bramins do very much reverence this Idol. They never come but once a year in devotion, but they must be there upon a prefixed day, which is the first of November, though they never open the Pagod till the full of the Moon. During those fifteen days, the Pilgrims, as well Men as Women, fast from time to time, and wash themselves three times a-day, not leaving a hair in any part of their bodies, which they take off with a certain earth. CHAP. XII. A Continuation of the description of the principal Pagods of the Indian Idolaters. NExt to the Pagods of Jngrenate and Banarous, the most considerable is that of Matura, about eighteen leagues from Agra, upon the way to Dehly. It is one of the most sumptuous Edifices in all India, and the place to which the greatest number of Pilgrims was wont to resort: But now there are very few or none; the Idolaters having insensibly lost the reverence which they had for that Pagod, since the River of Gemena, that formerly ran by that Pagod, has changed its course, above half a league from it. For it requires so much time to return to the Pagod, after they have washed in the River, that they were many times defiled again before they could reach it. Though this Pagod stand in a bottom, yet you may discover it five or six leagues before you come at it, the building being very lofty and magnificent. The Stones are of a red colour, which they fetch from a Quarry near Agra. They cleave like our Slates, some of them being fifteen foot long, and nine or ten foot broad, yet not above six fingers thick, especially when you cleave them as you would have them for use: They also make very fair Pillars. The Fortress of Agra, the Walls of Jehanabat, the King's House, the two Mosques, and several Nobleman's Houses are all built of this Stone. The Pagod is built upon a great Platform of an Octogonal Figure, paved with Freestone; being adorned round about with the figures of all sorts of creatures, especially Apes. There is an ascent to it two ways of fifteen or sixteen steps apiece, every step being two foot broad, for two persons to go abreast. One of the ascents leads up to the great Portal of the Pagod, the other behind up to the Chancel. The Pagod does not take up above half the Platform, the other half serving for a Piazza before it. The Structure is in the form of a Cross, like the rest of the Pagods, in the midst whereof a great Duomo, with two others of each side somewhat less, advance themselves above the rest of the building. The outside of the building from top to bottom is adorned with the figures of Rams, Apes and Elephants, and several sorts of Monsters. From one foot below every one of these Duomo's, to the Roof, at such and such spaces, are Windows, some five, some six feet high, and to every Window belongs a Balcone, where four persons may stand. Every Balcone is covered with a little Arch, supported by four Pillars, others by eight, every two touching one another. Round about the Duomo's are Niches filled with the figures of Daemons. Some with four arms, some with four legs. Some with men's heads upon the bodies of Beasts, and long tails that hang down to their thighs: There are abundance of Apes; and indeed it is an ugly sight to behold so many deformed spectacles. There is but one great door to the Pagod, upon each side whereof there are Pillars and Figures of Men and Monsters. The hinder-part is closed with a close Balister of Stone-Pillars five or six inches in Diameter, into which, as into a kind of Sanctum Sanctorum, none but the Bramins are permitted to enter: but for Money, I got in, and saw a square Altar some fifteen or sixteen foot from the door, covered with an old Tissue of Gold and Silver, upon which stood the great Idol, which they call Ram, Ram. You see nothing but his head, which is of a very black Marble, with two Rubies instead of eyes. All the body, from the shoulders to the feet, is covered with a Robe of Purple-Velvet, with some small embroidery. There are two other Idols on each side of him two foot high, apparelled in the same manner; only their faces are white, which they call Becchor. There I also saw a Machine sixteen foot square, and between twelve and fifteen foot high; covered with painted Calicuts, representing the shapes of Devils. This Machine running upon four Wheels, they told me, was a moving Altar, upon which they carried their great God in Procession to visit the other Gods, as also to the River, whither all the people went upon their great Festival. The fourth Pagod is that of Tripeti, in the Province of Carnatica, toward the Coast of Coromandel, and Cape Comorin. I saw it as I went to Maslipatan. It is a Pagod to which there belong a great number of little lodgings for the Bramins: so that altogether it seems to be a great Town. There are several Ponds round about it; but their superstition is so great, that no Passenger dare take any water out of them, but what the Bramin gives him. CHAP. XIII. Of the Pilgrimages of the Idolaters to their Pagods. ALL the Idolaters under the Dominion of the Great Mogul, and other Princes, both on this side and beyond Ganges, at lest once in their lives go in Pilgrimage to one of these Pagods that I have named; but most generally to that of Jugrenate, as being the first and most considerable above all the rest. The Bramins and rich people go oftener. For some go every four years, some every six, or eight; and putting the Idols of their Pagods upon Pallekies covered with Tissues, they travel with their Bramins, as it were in procession to the Pagod which they most esteem. They go not in Pilgrimage one by one, or two and two, but whole Towns, and many times several Towns together. The poor that go a great way, are supplied by the rich; who spend very freely in such acts of Charity. The rich travel in Pallekies or Chariots, the poor on foot, or upon Oxen; the Wife carrying the Child, and the man the Kitchen Implements. The Idol which they carry in procession, by way of visit, and out of respect to the great Ram-Ram, lies at length in a rich Palleky, covered with Tissue of Gold and Silver, fringed as richly; the Mattress and Bolster being of the same stuff under the head, feet, and elbows. The Bramins also distribute Flabels to the most considerable of the Company, the handles whereof being eight foot long, are plated with Gold and Silver. The Flabel being three foot in Diameter, of the same Tissue as the Pallekies; round about, it is adorned with Peacock's Feathers to gather more wind, and sometimes with Bells to make a kind of tingling. There are six of these Flabels usually employed to keep off the Flies from their God; the better sort taking it by turns, that the honour of waiting upon their God may be more equally shared. CHAP. XIV. Of divers Customs of the Indian Idolaters. THE Bramins are well skilled in Astrology; and will exactly foretell to the people the Eclipses of the Sun and Moon. The second of July 1666, about one a Clock in the afternoon, at Patna in Bengala, there was an Eclipse of the Sun; at which time it was a prodigious thing to see the multitudes of people, men, women, and children, that ran to the River Ganges, to wash themselves. But it behoves them to begin to wash three days before the Eclipse; all which time they labour day and night in providing all sorts of Rice, Milk, Meats, and Sweatmeats, to throw to the Fish and Crocodiles, as soon as the Bramins give the word. Whatever Eclipse it be whether of the Sun or Moon, the Idolaters as soon as it appears, break all their Earthen Pots and Dishes in the house, which makes a hideous noise altogether. Every Bramin has his Magic Book, wherein are abundance of Circles and Semicircles, Squares, Triangles, and several sorts of Cifers. They also make several Figures upon the ground, and when they find that the good hour is come, they cry aloud to the people to feed the fish. Then there ensues a most horrible din of Drums, Bells, and great noise of sounding Metal, which they twang one against another. And as soon as the victuals are thrown into the River, the people are to go in and wash and rub themselves till the Eclipse be over. So that in regard the waters were at that time very high, for more than three Leagues above and below the City, and all the breadth of the River, there was nothing to be seen but the heads of the people. As for the Bramins, they stay ashore to receive the richer sort, and those that give most; to dry their bodies, and to give them dry Linen to their bellies. Afterwards they cause them to sit down in a Chair, where the most liberal of the Idolaters have provided Rice, Pulse, Milk, Butter, Sugar, Meal, and Wood Before the Chair the Bramin makes a place very clean about five foot square; then with Cowdung steeped in a kind of yellow Basin, he rubs all the place, for fear any Emet should come there to be burnt. For indeed they would never make use of Wood if they could help it; and when they do, they are very careful that there be no Worms or Infects in it. In the place which they have thus cleansed, they draw several Figures, as Triangles, Ovals, Half-Ovals, etc. Then upon every Figure they lay a little Cows-dung, with two or three small sticks of Wood, upon every one of which they lay a several sort of Grain; after that pouring Butter, and setting fire to each; by the smoke which rises, they judge of the plenty of every sort of Grain that year. When the Moon is at the full in March, they keep a solemn Festival for their Idol, which is in form of a Serpent. This Festival continues nine days; and when it comes, they do nothing but make Holiday all the while, as well men as beasts, which they beautify by making Circles about their eyes with Vermilion, with which they also colour the Horns; and if they have a particular kindness for the beast, they hang them with Leaves of guilded Tin. Every morning they worship the Idol, and the Maids dance about it for an hour, to the noise of Flutes and Drums; after which they eat and drink and are merry till the evening, and then they worship and dance about their Idol again. Though the Idolaters never drink any strong drink at other times, yet at this Festival they drink Palm-wine, and strong water, which is made of the same in remote Villages; for else their Mahometan Governor would not suffer them to make Wine, nor to sell any which might be brought out of Persia. Their strong Water is thus made: They take a great Earthen pot, well glazed within, which they call Martavane; into one of these Vessels, that holds three hundred Paris pints of Palma-wine, they put in fifty or sixty pound of brown Sugar unrefined, which looks like yellow Wax; with about twenty pound of a great thick bark of a Thorn, not much unlike that which our Leather-dressers use. This bark sets the Palma-wine a bubbling and working just like our new wines, for five or six days together, till it becomes of a sweet Liquor, as sour as our Crabs. Then they distil it, and according to the taste they would give, they either put into a Cauldron full, a little Bag of Mace, or three or four handfuls of Aniseed. They can make it also as strong as they please. Being at Agra in the year 1642, an Idolater, whose name was Woldas, Broker to the Hollanders, about seventy years of age, receiving news that the chief Bramin of the Pagod of Matura was dead, went to the Hollander and desired him to even all accounts; for said he, the chief Priest being dead, it behoves me to die, that I may serve him in the other world. Thereupon having ended his accounts, he took his Coach, with some of his Kindred; but having neither eaten nor drank from the time he received the news, he died by the way; having famished himself for grief. The Indian Idolaters have a custom, that when any person gives a thing, they snap their fingers, crying out, Gi-Narami, remember Narami, who was a great Saint among them, for fear the Evil Spirit should enter into the body of him that gives. Being at Surat in the year 1653, a Raspoute being demanded Custom for three or four pieces of Calicut, boldly asked the Governor, whether a Soldier that had served the King all his life-time, aught to pay Custom for two or three pitiful pieces of Calicut, not worth four or five Roupies; telling him it was only to clothe his Wife and Children. The Governor nettled at his sauciness, called him Bethico, or Son of a Whore; adding, that if he were Prince he would make him pay his Customs. Whereupon the Soldier incensed at the affront, making as if he felt for Money to pay his deuce, bearing up to the Governor, stabbed him in the belly, so that he died immediately. But the Soldier was presently cut in pieces by the Governor's Servants. Though the Idolaters are in utter darkness as to the knowledge of the true God, however the Law of Nature teaches them Morality in many things. When they are married they are seldom false to their Wives. Adultery is very rare among them. And as for Sodomy I never heard it mentioned. They marry their Children between seven and eight years old, for fear they should fall into that vice; the Ceremonies whereof are these: The day before the Nuptials, the Bridegroom, accompanied by all his Kindred, goes to the House where the Bride lives, with a great pair of Bracelets, two fingers thick, hollow within, and in two pieces, with a hinge in the middle to open them. According to the quality of the Bride those Bracelets are of more or less value, sometimes of Gold, sometimes of Silver, Tin, or Latin, the poorest sort of all making use of Lead. The next day there is a great Feast at the Bridegroom's House, whether all the Kindred on both sides are invited, and about three a Clock in the afternoon the Bride is brought thither. Then the chief of the Bramins that are there, of which there are always several, laying the head of the Bride to the Bridegrooms, pronounces several words, sprinkling their heads and bodies all the while with water. Then they bring him upon Plates or Fig-leaves several sorts of Meats, Calicuts, and Stuffs; and then the Bramin asks the Bridegroom, whether so long as God shall make him able, he will let his Wife share with him, and whether he will endeavour to maintain her by his labour. If he says yes, they all set themselves down to the Feast prepared for them, where every one eats by himself. If the Bride be rich, and be acquainted among the Nobility, their Weddings are very pompous and expensive. The Bridegroom is mounted upon an Elephant, and the Bride rides in a Chariot; the whole Company carrying Torches in their hands. They also borrow of the Governor and the Nobility of the place, as many Elephants and prancing Horses as they can get. And they walk some part of the night with Fireworks, which they throw about the Streets and Piazza's. But the greatest expense to those that live three or four hundred Leagues from it, is to get the water of Ganges; for in regard they account that water sacred, and drink it out of devotion, it must be brought them by the Bramins, and in Earthen Vessels, glazed within side, which the chief Bramin of Ingrenate fills himself with the purest Water of the River, and then seals up with his own Seal. They never drink this water till the end of the Feast, and then they give their guests three or more glasses apiece. This water coming so far, and the chief Bramin demanding a Tribute for every pot, which contains a Pail-full, sometimes a wedding comes to two or three thousand Roupies. The eighth of April, being in a City of Bengala called Malde, the Idolaters made a great Feast, according to the particular Custom of that place; they all go out of the City, and fasten Iron hooks to the boughs of several Trees, then come a great number of poor people and hang themselves, some by the sides, some by the brawn of their backs, upon those hooks, till the weight of their body tearing away the flesh, they fall of themselves. 'Tis a wonderful thing to see that not so much as one drop of blood should issue from the wounded flesh, nor that any of the flesh should be left upon the hook; besides, that in two days they are perfectly cured by such Plasters as their Bramins give them. There are others who at that Feast will lie upon a bed of nails, with the points upward, the nails entering a good way into the flesh; however while these people are under this Penance, their Friends come and present them with Money and Linen. When they have undergone their Penance, they take the presents and distribute them to the poor, without making any farther advantage of them. I asked one, why they made that Feast, and suffered those severe Penances; who answered me, that it was in remembrance of the first man, whom they called Adam, as we do. In the year 1666, I saw another sort of Penance, as I crossed the Ganges; upon the Bank of which River they had prepared a clean place, where one of the poor Idolaters was condemned to rest upon the ground, touching it only with his hands and feet; which he was to do several times a day, and every time to kiss the earth three times before he risen up again. He was to rise up upon his left foot, never touching the ground with his right all the while. And every day for a month together before he either eat or drank he was obliged to this posture for fifty times together, and consequently to kiss the ground a hundred and fifty times. He told me, that the Bramins had enjoined him that Penance because he had suffered a Cow to die in his House, and had not lead her to the water to be washed before she died. When an Idolater has lost any piece of Gold or Silver, or sum of Money either by negligence, or as being stolen from him, he is obliged to carry as much as he lost to the great Bramin; for if he does not, and that the other should come to know of it, he is ignominiously cast out of his Tribe, to make him more careful another time. On the other side the Ganges Northward, toward the Mountains of Naugrocot, there are two or three rajas, who neither believe God nor the Devil. Their Bramins have a book containing their Belief, full of ridiculous absurdities, whereof the Author whose name is Baudou gives no reason. These rajas are the Great Moguls Vassals, and pay him Tribute. To conclude the Malavares carefully preserve the nails of their left hands, and let their hair grow like woman's. These nails, which are half a finger long, serve them instead of Combs; and it is with their left hand that they do all their drudgery, never touching their faces, nor what they eat, but with their right hands. CHAP. XV. Of the Kingdom of Boutan, whence comes the Musk, the good Rhubarb, and some Furs. THE Kingdom of Boutan is of a large extent; but I could never yet come to a perfect knowledge thereof. I have set down all that I could learn at Patna, whither the Merchants of Boutan come to sell their Musk. The most excellent Rhubarb comes also from the Kingdom of Boutan. From hence is brought also that Seed which is good against the worms, therefore called Wormseed; and good store of Furs. As for the Rhubarb, the Merchants run a great hazard which way soever they bring it; for if they take the Northern Road, toward Caboul, the wet spoils it; if the Southern Road, in regard the journey is long, if the Rains happen to fall, there is as much danger that way; so that there is no Commodity requires more care than that. As for the Musk, during the heats the Merchant loses by it, because it dries and loses its weight. Now in regard this Commodity pays twenty-five in the hundred Custom at Gorrochepour, the last Town belonging to the Great Mogul, next to the Kingdom of Boutan, when the Indian Merchants come to that City, they go to the Officer of the Customhouse, and tell him that they are going to Boutan to buy Musk or Rhubarb, and how much they intent to lay out; all which the Officer Registers, with the name of the Merchant. Then the Merchants instead of twenty-five, agree with him for seven or eight in the hundred, and take a Certificate from the Officer or Cadi, that he may not demand any more at their return. If the Officer refuses a handsome composition, than they go another way, over Deserts and Mountains covered with Snow, tedious and troublesome, till they come to Caboul, where the Caravans part, some for great Tartary, others for Balch. Here it is that the Merchants coming from Boutan barter their Commodities for Horses, Mules, and Camels; for there is little Money in that Country. Then those Tartars transport their Commodities into Persia, as far as Ardevile and Tauris; which is the reason that some Europeans have thought that Rhubarb and Wormseed came out of Tartary. True it is, that some Rhubarb comes from thence; but not so good as that of Boutan, being sooner corrupted; for Rhubarb will eat out its own heart. The Tartars carry back out of Persia Silks of small value, which are made in Tauris and Ardevile, and some English Cloth brought by the Armenians from Constantinople and Smyrna. Some of the Merchants that come from Caboul and Boutan go to Candahar, and thence to Ispahan; whether they carry Coral in Beads, yellow Amber, and Lapis Lazuli Beads, if they can meet with it. The other Merchants that come from the Coast of Multan, Lahor, and Agra, bring only Linnons, Indigo, and store of Cornelian and Crystal Beads. Those that return through Gorrochepour, and are agreed with the Officer of the Customhouse, carry from Patna and Daca, Coral, yellow Amber, Bracelets of Tortois-shells, and other Shells, with great store of round and square thick pieces of Tortoise. When I was at Patna, four Armenians who had been before at Boutan, returned from Dantzick, where they had made certain Figures of yellow Amber, representing the shapes of several Creatures and Monsters, which they were carrying to the King of Boutan, who is an Idolater, as are all his people, to set up in his Pagods. For the Armenians for Money will sell any thing of Idolatry; and they told me besides, that if they could but have made the Idol which the King of Boutan bespoke of them, they should have done their business. Which was to have been a Monster's head, with six horns, four ears, four arms, and six fingers upon every hand, all of yellow Amber; but they could not find pieces big enough. The Caravan is three months travelling from Patna to the Kingdom of Boutan. It sets out from Patna about the end of December, and eight days after arrives at Gorrochepour. From Gorrochepour to the foot of the high Mountains, is eight or nine days journey more, during which the Caravan suffers very much hardship, for the Country is nothing but wide Forests, full of wild Elephants. So that the Merchants, instead of taking their rests, are forced to watch, keep fires, and shoot off their Muskets all the night long. For the Elephant making no noise in treading, would else be upon the Caravan before they were ware; not that he comes to do any mischief to the men, but to get what victuals he can find. You may travel from Patna to the foot of those Mountains in Palleki's. But generally they ride upon Oxen, Camels, or Horses, bred in the Country. Those Horses are generally so little, that when a man is upon the back of them, his feet touch the ground; but they will travel twenty Leagues an end, and never bait, or else with a very small one. Some of those Horses cost two hundred Crowns; for indeed when you come to cross the Mountains, you can make use of no other sort of carriage but them, in regard of the narrowness and ruggedness of the Passes; which many times put the Horses very much to it, as strong and as low as they are. Five or six Leagues beyond Gorrochepour you enter into the Territories of the Raja of Nupal, which extend to the Frontiers of the Kingdom of Boutan. This Raja is a Tributary to the Great Mogul, and pays him every year an Elephant for his Homage. He resides in the City of Nupal, from whence he derives his Title; but there is little either Trade or Money in his Country, which is all Woods and Forests. The Caravan being arrived at the foot of these Mountains, which are called at this day by the name of Naugrocot, abundance of people come from all parts of the Mountain, the greatest part whereof are women and maids, who agree with the Merchants to carry them, their goods and provisions cross the Mountains, which is eight days journey more. The women carry upon each shoulder a woollen Roll, to which is fastened a large Cushion, that hangs down upon their backs, upon which the man sits. There are three women to carry one man, relieving one another by turns. And for their luggage and provisions, they lad them upon Goats, that will carry a hundred and fifty pound weight apiece. Those that will ride, are in many places forced to have their Horses hoist up with Cords. They never feed them but morning and evening, mixing a pound of meal, half a pound of brown Sugar, and half a pound of Butter together, with water sufficient. In the evening they must be contented only with a few flat Peason, bruised, and steeped half an hour in water. The women that carry the men, get for their ten days travel two Roupies apiece, and as much for every burden which the Goats carry, and for every Horse which they lead. After you have passed the Mountains, you may travel to Boutan upon Oxen, Camels, Horses, or Palleki's, which you please. The Country is good, abounding in Rice, Corn, Pulse, and store of wine. All the people both men and women are clad in the Summer with a large piece of Fustian, or Hempen-cloth; in the Winter with a thick Cloth, almost like Felt. Both men and women wear upon their heads a kind of Bonnet, much like our drinking Cans, which they adorn with Boars teeth, and with round and square pieces of Tortois-Shells. The richer sort intermix Coral and Amber Beads, of which their women make them Necklaces. The men as well as the women wear Bracelets upon their left hands only, from the wrist to the elbow. The women wear them straight, the men lose. About their necks they wear a silken twist, at the end whereof hangs a Bead of yellow Amber or Coral, or a Boars Tooth, which dangles upon their breasts. On their left sides, their Girdles are buttoned with Beads of the same. Though they be Idolaters, yet they feed upon all sort of food, except the flesh of Cows, which they adore as the common Nurses of all men; they are besides great lovers of strong water. They observe also some Ceremonies of the Chinese, burning Amber at the end of their Feasts, though they do not worship fire like the Chinese. For which reason the Merchants of Boutan will give at Patna for a Serre of large pieces of yellow Amber, as big as a Nut, bright and clean, thirtyfive and forty Roupies. The Serre of yellow Amber, Musk, Coral, Ambergrise, Rhubarb, and other Drugs, containing nine Ounces to the pound. Saltpetre, Sugar, Rice, Corn, and other Commodities, are also sold by the Serre in Bengala; but the Serre contains seventy-two of our Pounds, at sixteen Ounces to the Pound; and forty Serres make a Mein, or 2824 Pounds of Paris. To return to yellow Amber, a piece of nine ounces is worth in Boutan from 250 to 300 Roupies, according to its colour and beauty. Coral rough, or wrought into Beads, yields profit enough; but they had rather have it rough, to shape it as they please themselves. The Women and Maids are generally the Artists among them, as to those toys. They also make Beads of Crystal and Agate. As for the Men, they make Bracelets of Tortoise-shell, and Sea-shells, and polish those little pieces of Shells which the Northern people wear in their ears, and in their hair. In Patna and Daca there are above two thousand persons that thus employ themselves, furnishing the Kingdoms of Boutan, Asem, Siam, and other Northern and Eastern parts of the Mogul's Dominions. As for Wormseed, the Herb grows in the Fields, and must die before the Seed can be gathered: but the mischief is, that before the Seed is ripe, the wind scatters the greatest part, which makes it so scarce. When they gather the Seed, they take two little Hampers, and as they go along the Fields, they move their Hampers from the right to the left, and from the left to the right, as if they were mowing the Herb, bowing it at the top, and so all the Seed falls into the Hampers. Rhubarb is a Root which they cut in pieces, and stringing them by ten or twelve together, hang them up a drying. Had the Natives of Boutan as much art in killing the Martin as the Muscovite, they might vend great store of those rich Furs, considering what a number of those Beasts there are in that Country. No sooner does that creature peep out of his hole, but the Muscovites, who lie upon the watch, have 'em presently, either in the nose or in the eyes; for should they hit 'em in the body, the blood would quite spoil the skin. The King of Boutan has constantly seven or eight thousand Men for his Guard. Their Weapons are for the most part Bowes and Arrows. Some of them carry Battleaxes, and Bucklers. 'Tis a long time ago since they had the first use of Muskets and Cannons: their Gunpowder being long, but of an extraordinary force. They assured me that some of their Cannons had Letters and Figures upon them, that were above five-hundred years old. They dare not stir out of the Kingdom without the Governor's particular leave; nor dare they carry a Musket along with them, unless their next Kindred will undertake for them that they shall bring it back. Otherwise I had brought one along with me; for by the characters upon the Barrel, it appeared to have been made above 180 years. It was very thick, the mouth of the bore being like a Tulip, polished within as bright as a Looking-glass. Two thirds of the Barrel were garnished with embossed Wires, with certain Flowers of Gold and Silver inlaid between; and it carried a Bullet that weighed an ounce. But I could not prevail with the Merchant to sell it me, nor to give me any of his powder. There are always fifty Elephants kept about the King's House, and twenty five Camels, with each a Piece of Artillery mounted upon his back, that carries half a pound Ball. Behind the Gun sits a Cannoneer that manages and levels the Guns as he pleases. There is no King in the World more feared and more respected by his Subjects then the King of Boutan; being in a manner adored by them. When he sits to do Justice, or give Audience, all that appear in his presence hold their hands close together above their foreheads: and at a distance from the Throne prostrate themselves upon the ground, not daring to lift up their heads. In this humble posture they make their Petitions to the King; and when they retire, they go backwards till they are quite out of his sight. One thing they told me for truth, that when the King has done the deeds of nature, they diligently preserve the ordore, dry it and powder it, like sneezing-powder: and then putting it into Boxes, they go every Market-day, and present it to the chief Merchants, and rich Farmers, who recompense them for their kindness: that those people also carry it home, as a great rarity, and when they feast their Friends, strew it upon their meat. Two Boutan Merchants showed me their Boxes, and the Powder that was in them. The Natives of Boutan are strong and well proportioned; but their noses and faces are somewhat flat. Their women are said to be bigger and more vigorous than the men; but that they are much more troubled with swell in the throat than the men, few escaping that disease. They know not what war is, having no enemy to fear but the Mogul. But from him they are fenced with high, steep, craggy, and snowy Mountains. Northward there are nothing but vast Forests and Snow. East and West nothing but bitter water. And as for the rajas near them, they are Princes of little force. There is certainly some Silver Mine in the Kingdom of Boutan, for the King coins much Silver, in pieces that are of the value of a Roupy. The pieces are already described. However the Boutan Merchants could not tell me where the Mine lay. And as for their Gold, that little they have is brought them from the East, by the Merchants of those Countries. In the year 1659., the Duke of Muscovy's Ambassadors passed through this Country to the King of China. They were three of the greatest Noblemen in Muscovy, and were at first very well received; but when they were brought to kiss the King's hands, the custom being to prostrate themselves three times to the ground, they refused to do it, saying that they would compliment the King after their manner, and as they approached their own Emperor, who was as great and as potent as the Emperor of China. Thereupon, and for that they continued in their resolution, they were dismissed with their presents, not being admitted to see the King. But had those Ambassadors conformed to the custom of China, without doubt we might have had a beaten road through Muscovy and the North part of Great Tartary, and much more commerce and knowledge of the Country than now we have. This mentioning the Muscovites, puts me in mind of a story that several Muscovy Merchants averred to be true, upon the road between Tauris and Ispahan, where I overtook them, of a woman of fourscore and two years of age, who at those years was brought to bed in one of the Cities of Muscovy, of a Male Child, which was carried to the Duke, and by him brought up at the Court. CHAP. XVI. Of the Kingdom of Tipra. MOst people have been of opinion till now, that the Kingdom of Pegu lies upon the Frontiers of China; and I thought so myself, till the Merchants of Tipra undeceived me. I met with three, one at Daca, and two others at Patna. They were men of very few words; whether it were their own particular disposition, or the general habit of the Country. They cast up their accounts with small Stones likes agates, as big as a man's nail, upon every one of which was a cipher. They had every one their weights, like a Stelleer; though the Beam were not of Iron, but of a certain Wood as hard as Brazile; nor was the Ring that holds the weight, and is put through the Beam to mark the weight, of Iron, but a strong Silk Rope. And thus they weighed from a Dram to ten of our Pounds. If all the Natives of the Kingdom of Tipra were like the two Merchants which I met at Patna, I dare affirm them to be notable topers; for they never refused whatever strong Liquor I gave them, and never left till all was out; and when I told them by my Interpreter that all my Wine was gone, they clapped their hands upon their stomaches and sighed. These Merchants travelled all three through the Kingdom of Arakan, which lies to the South and West of Tipra, having some part of Pegu upon the Winter West. They told me also, that it was about fifteen days journey to cross through their Country; from whence there is no certain conjecture of the extent to be made, by reason of the inequality of the stages. They ride upon Oxen and Horses, which are low. but very hardy. As for the King and the Nobility, they ride in their Pallekies, or upon their Elephants of War. They are no less subject to Wens under their throats, than those of Boutan; insomuch that the women have those Wens hanging down to their Nipples; which proceeds from the badness of the waters. There is nothing in Tipra which is fit for strangers. There is a Mine of Gold, but the Gold is very course. And there is a sort of very course Silk, which is all the Revenue the King has. He exacts no Subsidies from his Subjects; but only that they, who are not of the prime Nobility, should work six days in a year in his Mine, or in his Silkworks. He sends his Gold and his Silk into China, for which they bring him back Silver, which he coins into pieces to the value of ten Sous. He also makes thin pieces of Gold, like the Asper's of Turkey; of which he has two sorts, four of the one sort making a Crown, and twelve of the other. CHAP. XVII. Of the Kingdom of Asem. IT was never known what the Kingdom of Asem was, till Mirgimola had settled Aurengzeb in the Empire. For he considering that he should be no longer valued at Court, after the war was at an end, being then General of Anreng-zeb Army, and powerful in the Kingdom, where he had great store of Creatures, to preserve the Authority he had, resolved to undertake the Conquest of the Kingdom of Asem; where he knew he should find little or no resistance, that Kingdom having been at peace above 500 years before. 'Tis thought these were the people that formerly invented Guns and Powder; which speed itself from Asem to Pegu, and from Pegu to China, from whence the invention has been attributed to the Chinese. However certain it is, that Mirgimola brought from thence several pieces of Canon, which were all Iron Guns, and store of excellent Powder, both made in that Country. The Powder is round and small, like ours, and very strong. Mirgimola embarked his Army in one of the mouths of Ganges, and sailing up one of the Rivers that comes from the Lake Chiamay, to the twenty-ninth or thirtieth Degree, he landed his Army, and came into a Country abounding in all humane necessaries, still finding the less resistance because the people were surprised. Being a Mahometan, he spared not the very Pagods, but burned and sacked all wherever he came to the thirtyfifth Degree. There he understood that the King of Asem was in the field with a more powerful Army than he expected, and that he had several pieces of Canon, and great store of fireworks withal. Thereupon Mirgimola thought it not convenient to march any farther; though the chief reason of his return was the drawing on of Winter; which the Indians are so sensible of, that it is impossible to make them stir beyond the thirti'th or thirtyfifth Degree, especially to hazard their lives. Mirgimola therefore turns to the South-west, and besieges a City called Azoo, which he took in a small time, and found good plunder therein. In this City of Azoo, are the Tombs of the Kings of Asem, and of all the Royal Family. For though they are Idolaters, they never burn their dead bodies, but bury them. They believe that the dead go into another world, where they that have lived well in this, have plenty of all things; but that they who have been ill livers, suffer the want of all things, being in a more especial manner afflicted with hunger and drought; and that therefore it is good to bury something with them to serve them in their necessities. This was the reason that Mirgimola found so much wealth in the City of Azoo. For many ages together, several Kings had built them Chapels in the great Pagod to be buried in, and in their life times had stored up in the Vaults of their particular Chapels, great sums of Gold and Silver, and other moveables of value. Besides, that when they bury the deceased King, they bury with him likewise whatever he esteemed most precious in his life-time, whether it were an Idol of Gold or Silver, or whatever else, that being needful in this, might be necessary for him in the world to come. But that which favours most of Barbarism is, that when he dies, all his best beloved Wives, and the principal Officers of his House poison themselves, to be buried with him, and to wait upon him in the other world. Besides this, they bury one Elephant, twelve Camels, six Horses, and a good number of Hounds, believing that all those Creatures rise again to serve their King. The Kingdom of Asem is one of the best Countries of all Asia, for it produces all things necessary for humane subsistence, without any need of foreign supply. There are in it Mines of Gold, Silver, Steel, Led, Iron, and great store of Silk, but course. There is a sort of Silk that is found under the the Trees, which is spun by a Creature like to our Silkworms, but rounder, and which lives all the year long under the trees. The Silks which are made of this Silk glisten very much, but they fret presently. The Country produces also great store of Gum-Lake; of which there is two sorts, one grows under the trees of a red colour, wherewith they paint their Linen and Stuffs; and when they have drawn out the red juice, the remaining substance serves to varnish Cabinets, and to make Wax; being the best Lake in Asia for those uses. As for their Gold they never suffer it to be transported out of the Kingdom, nor do they make any Money of it; but they preserve it all in Ingots, which pass in trade among the Inhabitants; but as for the Silver, the King coins it into Money, as is already described. Though the Country be very plentiful of all things, yet there is no flesh which they esteem so much as Dog's flesh; which is the greatest delicacy at all Feasts; and is sold every month in every City of the Kingdom upon their Market-days. There are also great store of Vines, and very good Grapes, but they never make any Wine; only they dry the Grapes to make Aqua Vitae. As for Salt they have none but what is artificial, which they make two ways. First they raise great heaps of that green Stuff that swims at the top of standing waters, which the Ducks and Frogs eat. This they dry and burn; and the ashes thereof being boiled in a Cloth in water, become very good Salt. The other way most in use is to take the leaves of Adam's Figtree, which they dry and burn; the ashes whereof make a Salt so tart, that it is impossible to eat it until the tartness be taken away; which they do by putting the ashes in water, where they stir them ten or twelve hours together; then they strain the substance through a Linen Cloth and boil it; as the water boils away, the bottom thick'ns; and when the water is all boiled away, they find at the bottom very good and white Salt. Of the ashes of these Fig-leaves they make a Lie, wherewith they wash their Silk, which makes it as white as Snow; but they have not enough to whiten half the Silk that grows in the Country. Kenneroof is the name of the City where the King of Asem keeps his Court; twenty-five or thirty days journey from that which was formerly the Capital City, and bore the same name. The King requires no Subsidies of his people; but all the Mines in his Kingdom are his own; where for the ease of his Subjects, he has none but slaves that work; so that all the Natives of Asem live at their ease, and every one has his house by himself, and in the middle of his ground a fountain encompassed with trees; and most commonly every one an Elephant to carry their Wives; for they have four Wives, and when they marry, they say to one, I take thee to serve me in such a thing; to the other, I appoint thee to do such business; so that every one of the Wives knows what she has to do in the House. The men and women are generally well complexioned; only those that live more Southerly are more swarthy, and not so subject to Wens in their throats; neither are they so well featured, besides that the women are somewhat flat Nosed. In the Southern parts the people go stark naked, only covering their private parts, with a Bonnet like a blue Cap upon their heads, hung about with Swine's teeth. They pierce holes in their ears, that you may thrust your thumb in, wheat they hang pieces of Gold and Silver. Bracelets also of Tortoise-shells, and Sea-shells as long as an egg, which they saw into Circles, are in great esteem among the meaner sort; as Bracelets of Coral and yellow Amber among those that are rich. When they bury a man, all his Friends and Relations must come to the burial; and when they lay the body in the ground, they all take off their Bracelets from their Armsand Legs, and bury them with the Corpse. CHAP. XVIII. Of the Kingdom of Siam. THE greatest part of the Kingdom of Siam lies between the Golf of Siam and the Golf of Bengala; bordering upon Pegu toward the North, and the Peninsula of Malacca toward the South. The shortest and nearest way for the Europaeans to go to this Kingdom, is to go to Ispahan, from Ispahan to Ormus, from Ormus to Surat, from Surat to Golconda, from Golconda to Maslipatan, there to embark for Denouserin, which is one of the Ports belonging to the Kingdom of Siam. From Denouserin to the Capital City, which is also called Siam, is thirtyfive days journey, part by Water, part by Land, by Wagon, or upon Elephants. The way, whether by Land or Water, is very troublesome; for by Land you must be always upon your guard, for fear of Tigers and Lions; by Water, by reason of the many falls of the River, they are forced to hoist up their Boats with Engines. All the Country of Siam is very plentiful in Rice and Fruits; the chiefest whereof are Mangos, Durions, and Mangustans. The Forests are full of Hearts, Elephants, Tigers, Rhinocero's, and Apes; where there grow also large Bambov's in great abundance. Under the knots of these Bambou's are Emmets nests as big as a man's head, where every Emet has his apartment by himself; but there is but one hole to enter into the nest. They make their nests in these Canes to preserve themselves from the rains which continue four or five months together. In the night time the Serpents are very busy. There are some two foot long, with two heads; but one of them has no motion. There is also another creature in Siam, like our Salamander, with a forked tail, and very venomous. The Rivers in this Kingdom are very large; and that which runs by Siam is equally as large as the rest. The water is very wholesome; but it is very full of Crocodiles of a monstrous bigness, that devour men if they be not very careful of themselves. These Rivers overflow their banks while the Sun is in the Southern Tropic; which makes the fields to be very fertile as far as they flow; and it is observed, that the Rice grows higher or lower, as the floods do more or less increase. Siam, the Capital City of the Kingdom, where the King keeps his Court, is walled about, being about three of our Leagues in circuit; it is situated in an Island, the River running quite round it, and might be easily brought into every street in the Town, if the King would but lay out as much Money upon that design, as he spends in Temples and Idols. The Siamers have thirty-three Letters in their Alphabet. But they writ from the left to the right, as we do, contrary to the custom of Japon, China, Cochinchina, and Tunquin, who writ from the right to the left. All the Natives of this Kingdom are slaves, either to the King or the great Lords. The women as well as the men cut their hair; neither are they very rich in their habits. Among their compliments, the chiefest is, never to go before a person that they respect, unless they first ask leave, which they do by holding up both their hands. Those that are rich have several Wives. The Money of the Country is already described. The King of Siam is one of the richest Monarches in the East, and styles himself King of Heaven and Earth; though he be Tributary to the Kings of China. He seldom shows himself to his Subjects; and never gives Audience, but to the principal Favourites of his Court. He trusts to his Ministers of State, for the management of his affairs, who sometimes make very bad use of their authority. He never shows himself in public above twice a year; but than it is with an extraordinary magnificence. The first is, when he goes to a certain Pagod within the City, which is guilded round both within and without. There are three Idols between six and seven foot high, which are all of massy Gold; which he believes he renders propitious to him, by the great store of Alms that he distributes among the poor, and the presents which he makes to the Priests. Then he goes attended by all his Court, and puts to open view the richest Ornaments he has. One part of his magnificence consists in his train of two hundred Elephants; among which there is one that is white, which the King so highly esteems, that he styles himself King of the White Elephant. The second time the King appears in public, is when he goes to another Pagod five or six Leagues above the Town, up the River. But no person must enter into this Pagod, unless it be the King and his Priests. As for the people, so soon as they see the Door open, they must presently fall upon their faces to the Earth. Then the King appears upon the River with two hundred Galleys of a prodigious length; four hundred Rowers belonging to every one of the Galleys; most of them being guilded and carved very richly. Now in regard this second appearance of the King is in the month of November, when the waters begin to abate, the Priests make the people believe that none but the King can stop the course of the waters, by his Prayers and by his Offerings to this Pagod. And they are so vain as to think that the King cuts the waters with his Sabra, or Skein; thereby commanding it to retire back into the Sea. The King also goes, but incognito, to a Pagod in an Island where the Hollanders have a Factory. There is at the entry thereof an Idol sitting crosslegged, with one hand upon his knee, and the other arm akimbo. It is above sixty foot high; and round about this Idol are about three hundred others, of several sorts and sizes. All these Idols are guilt. And indeed there are a prodigious number of Pagods in this Country; for every rich Siamer causes one to be built in memory of himself. Those Pagods have Steeples and Bells, and the Walls within are painted and guilded; but the Windows are so narrow that they give but a very dim light. The two Pagods to which the King goes publicly, are adorned with several tall Pyramids, well guilded. And to that in the Hollanders Island there belongs a Cloister, which is a very neat Structure. In the middle of the Pagod is a fair Chapel, all guilded within side; where they find a Lamb, and three Wax Candles continually burning before the Altar, which is all over covered with Idols, some of massy Gold, others of Copper guilt. In the Pagod in the midst of the Town, and one in of those to which the King goes once a year, there are above four thousand Idols; and for that which is six Leagues from Siam, it is surrounded with Pyramids, whose beauty makes the industry of that Nation to be admired. When the King appears, all the Doors and Windows of the Houses must be shut; and all the people prostrate themselves upon the ground, not daring to lift up their eyes. And because no person is to be in a higher place than the King, they that are within doors, are bound to keep their lowest Rooms. When he cuts his hair, one of his Wives performs that office, for he will not suffer a Barber to come near him. This Prince has a passionate kindness for his Elephants; which he looks upon as his Favourites, and the Ornaments of his Kingdom. If there be any of them that fall sick, the Lords of the Court are mighty careful to please their Sovereign; and if they happen to die, they are buried with the same Funeral Pomp as the Nobles of the Kingdom; which are thus performed: They set up a kind of Mausoleum, or Tomb of Reeds, covered with Paper; in the midst whereof they lay as much sweet wood as the body weighs, and after the Priests have mumbled certain Orisons, they set it afire, and burn it to ashes; which the rich preserve in Gold or Silver Urns, but the poor scatter in the wind. As for offenders, they never burn, but bury them. 'Tis thought that in this Kingdom there are above two hundred Priests, which they call Bonzes, which are highly reverenced as well at Court as among the people. The King himself has such a value for some of them, as to humble himself before them. This extraordinary respect makes them so proud, that some of them have aspired to the Throne. But when the King discovers any such design, he puts them to death. And one of them had his head lately struck off for his Ambition. These Bonzes wear yellow, with a little red Cloth about their Wastes, like a Girdle. Outwardly they are very modest, and are never seen to be angry. About four in the morning, upon the tolling of their Bells, they rise to their prayers, which they repeat again toward evening. There are some days in the year when they retire from all converse with men. Some of them live by Alms; others have Houses with good Revenues. While they wear the Habit of Bonzes, they must not marry; for if they do, they must lay their Habit aside. They are generally very ignorant, not knowing what they believe. Yet they hold the transmigration of Souls into several Bodies. They are forbid to kill any Creature; yet they will make no scruple to eat what others kill, or that which dies of itself. They say that the God of the Christians and theirs were Brothers; but that theirs was the eldest. If you ask them where their God is, they say, he vanished away, and they know not where he is. The chief strength of the Kingdom is their Infantry, which is indifferent good; the Soldiers are used to hardship, going all quite naked, except their private parts; all the rest of their body, looking as if it had been cupped, is carved into several shapes of beasts and flowers. When they have cut their skins, and staunched the blood, they rub the cutwork with such colours as they think most proper. So that afar off you would think they were clad in some kind of flowered Satin or other; for the colours never rub out. Their weapons are Bows and Arrows, Pike and Musket, and an Azagaya, or Staff between five and six foot long with a long Iron Spike at the end, which they very dextrously dart at the Enemy. In the year 1665, there was at Siam a Neapolitan Jesuit, who was called Father Thomas; he caused the Town and the King's Palace to be fortified with very good Bulwarks, according to Art; for which reason the King gave him leave to live in the City, where he has a House and a little Church. CHAP. XIX. Of the Kingdom of Macassar; and the Ambassadors which the Hollanders sent into China. THE Kingdom of Macassar, otherwise called the Isle of Celebes, gins at the fifteenth Degree of Southern Latitude. The heats are excessive all the day; but the nights are temperate enough. And for the Soil, it is very fertile; but the people have not the art of building. The Capital City bears the name of the Kingdom, and is situated upon the Sea. The Port is free; for the Vessels that bring great quantities of goods from the adjacent Islands, pay no Customs. The Islanders have a custom to poison their Arrows; and the most dangerous poison which they use, is the juice of certain Trees in the Island of Borneo; which they will temper so as to work swift or slow, as they please. They hold that the King has only the secret Receipt to take away the force of it; who boasts that he has the most effectual poison in the world, which there is no remedy can prevent. One day an English man in heat of blood had killed one of the Kings of Macassars Subjects; and though the King had pardoned him, yet both English, Hollanders, and Portugals fearing if the English man should go unpunished, lest the Islanders should revenge themselves upon some of them, besought the King to put him to death; which with much ado being consented to, the King unwilling to put him to a lingering death, and desirous to show the effect of his poison, resolved to shoot the Criminal himself; whereupon he took a long Trunk, and shot him exactly into the great Toe of the right foot, the place particularly aimed at. Two Surgeons, one an English man, and the other a Hollander, provided on purpose, immediately cut off the member; but for all that, the poison had dispersed itself so speedily, that the English man died at the same time. All the Kings and Princes of the East are very diligent in their enquiry after strong poisons. And I remember that the chief of the Dutch Factory and I tried several poisoned Arrows, with which the King of Achen had presented him, by shooting at Squirrels, who fell down dead, as soon as ever they were touched. The King of Macassar is a Mahometan, and will not suffer his Subjects to embrace Christianity. Yet in the year 1656, the Christians found a way to get leave to build a fair Church in Macassar. But the next year the King caused it to be pulled down, as also that of the Dominican Friars, which the Portugals made use of. The Parish Church, which was under the Government of the secular Priests, stood still, till the Hollanders attacked Macassar, and compelled him to turn all the Portugals out of his Dominions. The ill conduct of that Prince was in part the occasion of that war; to which the Hollanders were moved, to revenge themselves upon the Portugal Jesuits, who had crossed their Embassy to China. Besides, that they offered great affronts to the Hollanders at Macassar, especially when they trod under foot the Hat of one of the Dutch Envoys, who was sent to treat with the King in behalf of the Company. Thereupon the Hollanders resolved to unite their forces with the Bouquises, that were in rebellion against their Sovereign, and to revenge themselves at any rate. Now as to the business of China, it happened thus: Toward the end of the year 1658, the General of Batavia and his Council, sent one of the chief of the Holland Company with Presents to the King of China; who arriving at Court, laboured to gain the friendship of the Mandarins, who are the Nobility of the Kingdom. But the Jesuits, who by reason of their long abode in the Country, understood the language, and were acquainted with the Lords of the the Court, lest the Holland Company should get footing to the prejudice of the Portugals, represented several things to the King's Council to the prejudice of the Hollanders; more especially charging them with breach of Faith in all the places where they came. Upon this the Holland Agent was dismissed, and departed out of China without doing any feats. Afterwards coming to understand what a trick the Portugal Jesuits had put upon him, he made report thereof to the General and his Council at Batavia; which so incensed them, that they resolved to be revenged. For by the Deputies accounts, the Embassy had cost them above fifty thousand Crowns; for which they consulted how to make the Portugals pay double. Understanding therefore the trade which the Jesuits drove in the Island of Macao, and to the Kingdom of Macassar, whither upon their own account they sent seven Vessels, laden with all sorts of Commodities, as well of India as China; they took their opportunity, and the seventh of June 1660, appeared with a Fleet of thirty Sail before the Port of Macassar. The King thinking himself obliged to make defence against so potent an Enemy, endeavoured to sustain the brunt of the Hollander with the Portugal Ships in the Road; but the Hollander dividing their Fleet, part of them fought the Portugal, the other half battered the Royal Fortress so furiously, that they carried it in a short time. Which so terrified the King, that he commanded the Portugal's not to fire any more for fear of farther provoking his Enemies. The Prince Patinsaloa was slain in the fight, which was a great loss to the King of Macassar, who was become formidable to his neighbours by the good Conduct of that Minister. As for the Hollanders, they took, burnt, and sunk all the Portugal Vessels, and sufficiently reimbursed themselves for their China Expenses. The thirteenth of June the King of Macassar, whose name was Sumbaco, hung out a white Flag from another Tower, whence he beheld the fight environed by his Wives. During the truce, he sent one of the Grandees of his Court to the Dutch Admiral, to desire peace, which was granted, upon condition he should send an Ambassador to Batavia, expel the Portugals out of the Island, and not permit his Subjects to have any more to do with them. Thereupon the King of Macassar sent eleven of the greatest Lords of his Court, with a train of seven hundred men; the Chief of the Embassy being the Prince of Patinsaloa. The first thing they did, was to pay two hundred Loaves of Gold to redeem the Royal Fortress again; and then submitting to the Conditions which the Dutch Admiral had proposed, the General of Batavia signed the Articles, which were punctually observed. For the Portugals immediately quitted the Country, some departing for Siam and Cambòya, others for Macoa and Goa. Macao, formerly one of the most famous and richest Cities of the Orient, was the principal motive that inclined the Hollanders to send an Ambassador into China; for being the best station which the Portugals had in all those parts, the Dutch had a design to win it wholly. Now, this City, lying in twentytwo Degrees of Northern Latitude, in a small Island next to the Province of Kanton, which is a part of China, has very much lost its former lustre. But this was not all which the Jesuits and the Portugal Merchants suffered. The Chief of the Dutch Factory at Mingrela, which is but eight Leagues from this City, understanding the bad success of the Dutch in China, had a contrivance by himself to be revenged. He knew that the Jesuits of Goa and other places, drove a great trade in rough Diamonds, which they sent into Europe, or else carried along with them when they returned; and that for the more private carrying on of their trade, they were wont to send one or two of their Order, that knew the language, in the habit of a Faquir, which consists of a Tiger's Skin to cover their backparts, and a Goat's Skin to cover the breast, reaching down to the knees. Thereupon the Chief of the Factory of Mingrela taking his opportunity, and having notice that two of the supposed Faquirs were gone to the Mines, to lay out 400000 Pardo's in Diamonds, gave order to two men, which he had feed for the purpose, that as soon as the Fathers had made their purchase, he should give notice to the Officer of the Customhouse at Bicholi. Bicholi is a great Town upon the Frontiers of those Lands that part the Kingdom of Visapour from the Territories of the Portugals; there being no other way to pass the River, which encompasses the Island where the City of Goa is built. The Father's believing that the Customer knew nothing of their purchase, went into the Boat to go over the River; but as soon as they were in, they were strictly searched, and all their Diamonds confiscated. To return to the King of Macassar; you must know, that the Jesuits once endeavoured to convert him; and perhaps they might have brought it to pass, had they not neglected one proposal which he made them. For at the same time that the Jesuits laboured to bring him to Christianity, the Mahometans used all their endeavours to oblige him to stick to their Law. The King willing to leave his Idolatry, yet not knowing which part to take, commanded the Mahometans to send for two or three of their most able Moulla's, or Doctors from Mecca; and the Jesuits he ordered to send him as many of the most learned among them, that he might be instructed in both Religions; which they both promised to do. But the Mahometans were more diligent than the Christians, for in eight months they fetched from Mecca two learned Moulla's; whereupon the King seeing that the Jesuits sent no body to him, embraced the Mahometan Law. True it is, that three years after there came two Portugal Jesuits, but than it was too late. The King of Macassar being thus become a Mahometan, the Prince his Brother was so mad at it, that when the Mosque, which the King had caused to be built, was finished, he got into it one night, and causing the throats of two Pigs to be cut, he all besmeared the walls of the new Mosque, and the place which was appointed for the Moulia to perform Divine Service with the blood; so that the King was forced to pull down that, and build another. After which the Prince with some Idolatrous Lords stole out of the Island, and never since appeared at Court. CHAP. XX. The Author pursues his Travels into the East, and embarks at Mingrela for Batavia. The danger he was in upon the Sea; and his arrival in the Island of Ceylan. I Departed from Mingrela, a great Town in the Kingdom of Visapour, eight Leagues from Goa, the fourteenth of April, 1648, and embarked in a Dutch Vessel bound for Batavia. The Ship had orders to touch at Bokanour, to take in Rice. Whereupon I went ashore with the Captain, to obtain leave of the King to buy Rice. We found him upon the shore, where he had about a dozen Huts set up, which were covered with Palm-leaves. In his own Hut there was a piece of Persian Tapestry spread under him, and there we saw five or six women, some fanning him with Peacock's Feathers, others giving him Betlé, others filling him his Pipe of Tobacco. The most considerable persons of the Country were in the other Huts; and we counted about two hundred men that were upon the Guard, armed only with Bows and Arrows. They had also two Elephants among 'em. 'Tis very probable, that his Palace was not far off, and that he only came thither to take the fresh air. There we were presented with Tari or Palm-wine; but being new, and not boiled, it caused the headache in all that drank it, insomuch that we were two days before we could recover it. I asked the reason, how the Wine came to do us so much prejudice; to which they answered me, that it was the Planting of Pepper about the Palm-trees, that gave such a strength to the Wine. We were no sooner got aboard, but a mighty tempest arose, wherein the Ship, men, and goods had all like to have been cast away, being near the shore; but at length, the wind changing, we found ourselves by break of day three or four Leagues at Sea, having lost all our Anchors; and at length came safe to Port in the Haven of Ponté de Gall, the twelfth of May. I found nothing remarkable in that City; there being nothing but the ruins made by the undermine and Canon-shot, when the Hollanders besieged it, and chased the Portugals from thence. The Company allowed ground to build upon, to them that would inhabit there, and land to till; and had then raised two Bulwarks which commanded the Port. If they have finished the design which they undertook, the place cannot but be very considerable. The Hollanders, before they took all the places which the Portugals had in the Island of Ceylan, did believe that the trade of this Island would have brought them in vast sums, could they but be sole Masters of it; and perhaps their conjectures might have been true, had they not broken their words with the King of Candy, who is the King of the Country; but breaking faith with him, they lost themselves in all other places thereabouts. The Hollanders had made an agreement with the King of Candy, that he should be always ready with twenty thousand men, to keep the passages that hinder the Portugals from bringing any succours from Colombo, Negombe, Manar, or any other places which they possessed upon the Coast. In consideration whereof the Hollanders, when they had taken Ponte Gall, were to restore it to the King of Candy; which they not performing, the King sent to know why they did not give him possession of the Town; to which they returned answer, that they were ready to do it, provided he would defray the expenses of the war, But they knew, that if he had had three Kingdoms more, such as his own, he could never have paid so great a sum. I must confess indeed the Country is very poor, for I do not believe that the King ever saw fifty thousand Crowns together in his life; his trade being all in Cinnamon and Elephants. As for his Cinnamon, he has no profit of it since the Portugals coming into the East Indies. And for his Elephants, he makes but little of them; for they take not above five or six in a year; but they are more esteemed than any other Country Elephants, as being the most courageous in war. One thing I will tell you hardly to be believed, but that which is a certain truth, which is, that when any other King or Raja has one of these Elephants of Ceylan, if they bring him among any other breed in any other place whatever, so soon as the other Elephants behold the Ceylan Elephants, by an instinct of nature, they do him reverence, laying their trunks upon the ground, and raising them up again. The King of Achen, with whom the Hollanders also broke their word, had more opportunity to be revenged upon them then the King of Candy. For he denied them the transportation of Pepper out of his Country, without which their trade was worth little. His Pepper being that which is most coveted by the East. So that they were forced to make a composition with him. The King of Achens Ambassador coming to Batavia, was strangely surprised to see women sitting at the Table; but much more, when after a health drank to the Queen of Achen, the General of Batavia commanded his Wife to go and kiss the Ambassador. Nor was the King behind hand with the Dutch Ambassador another way; whom the King beholding in a languishing distemper, asked him whether he had never any familiarity with any of the Natives. Yes, replied the Ambassador; however I left her to marry in my own Country. Upon that the King commanded three of his Physicians to cure him in fifteen days, upon the forfeiture of their lives. Thereupon they gave him a certain potion every morning, and a little Pill at night; and at the end of nine days he took a great Vomit. Every body thought he would have died with the working of it; but at length it brought up a stopple of course hair, as big as a nut; after which he presently recovered. At his departure the King gave him a Flint about the bigness of a Goose Egg, with veins of Gold in it, like the veins of a man's hand, as the Gold grows in that Country. CHAP. XXI. The Author's departure from Ceylan, and his arrival at Batavia. THE twenty-fifth of May we set fail from Ponte Gall. The second of June we passed the Line. The sixth we saw the Island called Nazaco's. The seventeenth we discovered the Coast of Sumatra, the eighteenth the Island of Ingamina, and the nineteenth the Island of Fortune. The twentieth we were in ken of certain little Islands, and the Coast of Java; among which Islands there are three called the Islands of the Prince. The one and twentieth we discovered Bantam, and the two and twentieth we anchored in the Road of Batavia. There are two Councils in Batavia, the Council of the Fort, where the General presides, and where all the affairs of the Company are managed. The other which is held in a House in the City, and relates to the Civil Government, and decides the petty differences among the Citizens. All the kindness I had shown me here, was to be prosecuted by the City Council, for being suspected to have bought a parcel of Diamonds for Mounsieur Constant, my very good Friend, and Precedent of the Dutch Factory at Gomron; but when they could make nothing of it, they ceased their suit, ashamed of what they had done. CHAP. XXII. The Author goes to visit the King of Bantam, and relates several Adventures upon that occasion. BEing so ill treated in Batavia, I resolved to visit the King of Bantam; to which purpose I took my own Brother along with me, because he spoke the Language called Malaye; which in the East is as universal as Latin among us. Being arrived at Bantam in a small Bark, which we hired for ourselves; we went first and visited the English Precedent, who kindly entertained and lodged us. The next day I sent my Brother to the Palace, to know when it would be seasonable for me to come and kiss the King's Hands. When the King saw him (for he was well known to him) he would not suffer him to return, but sent others to fetch me, and to tell me withal, that if I had any rare Jewels, I should do him a kindness to bring them along with me. When I saw my Brother returned not with the persons which the King sent, I was almost in the mind not to have gone; remembering how the King of Achen had served the Sieur Renaud. For the French having set up an East India Company, sent away four Vessels, three great ones, and one of eight Guns, for the service of the Company. Their Voyage was the shortest that ever was heard of; arriving at Bantam in less than four months. The King also courteously received them, and let them have as much Pepper as they desired, and cheaper by twenty in the hundred then he sold it to the Hollanders. But the French not coming only for Pepper, sent away their small Ship with the greatest part of their Money to Macassar, to try the Market for Cloves, Nutmegs, and Mace. The French being so soon dispatched at Bantam, had not patience to stay till the return of the small Vessel which they had sent to Macassar; but to pass the time, must needs run over to Batavia, being not above fourteen Leagues off; so that you may be at Batavia from Bantam in a tide with a good wind. When they came to an Anchor, the General of the French Fleet sent to Compliment the General of Batavia, who failed not to answer his civility, and invited the Admiral ashore. Moreover he sent to those that stayed aboard, great store of excellent cheer, and a good quantity of Spanish and Rhenish Wine, with particular order to them that carried it, to make the French drunk. His order was so well followed, that 'twas easy to set the Ships on fire, according to the private instructions which they had. So soon as the flame was discovered from the General's window, which overlooked all the Road, there was a wonderful pretended astonishment among the Dutch. But the French Admiral too truly conjecturing the ground and Authors of the treachery, beholding the company with an undaunted courage; Come, come, cried he, let's drink on; they that set the Ships afire shall pay for'em. However the French Ships were all burnt, though the men were all saved in Boats which were forthwith sent to their relief. After that, the General of Batavia made them great offers, which they refused, and returned to Batavia, in expectation of their small Vessel. When it returned, they could find out no better way then to sell Ship, and goods, and all to the English, and to share the Money among themselves, every one according to their condition. But the trick which they put upon the English was far more bloody. The English were the first that found out the danger of sailing from Surat, Maslipatan, or any other distant parts, to Japon without touching by the way. Whereupon they thought it convenient to build a Fort in the Island of Formosa, which not only saved the loss of several Vessels, but also brought them in great gain. The Hollanders mad that the English were possessed of such an advantageous situation, being the only place in all the Island where Vessels could ride in safety; and finding they could not carry it by force, bethought themselves of a Stratagem; to which purpose they sent away two Ships, wherein they stored the best of their Soldiers, who pretending they had been in a storm in Sea, put into the Harbour of Formosa, with some of their Masts by the board, their Sails scattered, and their Seamen seemingly sick. The English compassionating their miseries, which was only in outward appearance, invited the chief of them to come ashore to refresh themselves; which they were very ready to do, carrying as many men with them as possibly they could under pretence of sickness. While the chief of them were at Dinner with the chief of the English, they all plied their Cups; and when the Dutch saw the English had drunk hard enough, taking their opportunity, they picked a quarrel with the Commander of the Fort, and drawing their Swords, which they had hidden under their Coats for that purpose, they easily surprised and cut all the throats of the Soldiers in the Garrison; and being thus Masters of the Fort, they kept it from that time till they were routed out by the Chinese. Now for the trick that the King of Achen served the Sieur Renaud; he having got a good Estate by Jewels, arrived at length at Achen, and as it is the custom for the Merchants to show the King what Jewels they have, the King had no sooner cast his eye upon four Rings which the Sieur Renaud showed him, but he bid him fifteen thousand Crowns for them; but Renaud would not bate of eighteen thousand. Now because they could not agree, the Sieur Renaud carried them away with him, which very much displeased the King; however he sent for him the next day. Whereupon Renaud returning to him, the King paid him his eighteen thousand Crowns; but he was never seen after that, and it is thought he was secretly murdered in the Palace. This story came to my remembrance, when I found my Brother did not come along with those that were sent to fetch me. However I resolved to go, taking with me 12 or 13000 Roupies worth of Jewels; the greatest part being in Rose Diamond Rings, some consisting of seven, some of nine, and some of eleven Stones; with some small Bracelets of Diamonds and Rubies. I found the King with three of his Captains and my Brother sitting together, after the manner of the East, with five great Plates of Rice before them of divers colours. For their drink they had Spanish Wine, strong Waters, and several sorts of Sherbets. After I had complemented the King, and presented him with a Diamond Ring, a blue Saphir Ring, and a little Bracelet of Diamonds, Rubies, and blue Saphires, he commanded me to sit down, and ordered me a glass of strong Water to whet my appetite. The glass held a quarter of a pint, and therefore I refused it, which the King very much wondered at; but being told by my Brother, that I never drank any strong Water, he ordered me presently a glass of Sack. After that he risen up, and seated himself in a Chair, the Elbows whereof were guilded. His feet and legs were bare, having a Persian Carpet of Gold and Silk to tread upon. He was clad with a piece of Calicut, part whereof covered his body from his waste to his knees, the rest being wound about his back and shoulders like a Scarf. Instead of Shoes he had a pair of Sandals, that stood by the Chair side, the straps whereof were embroidered with Gold and small Pearl. About his head he had a thing like a Handkerchief, with three Corners, bound about his head like a Fillet. His hair also, which was very long, was twisted and tied together over his head. Two persons stood behind him with great Fans of long Peacock Feathers, the handles whereof were five or six foot in length. Upon his right hand stood an old black woman, holding in her hand a little Mortar and a Pestle of Gold, to beat his Betlé in; wherewith he mixed the Kernel of the Nut of Araqué, and Seed Pearl dissolved. When it was all beaten together, the old woman gave it the King over his Shoulders, who opening his mouth, the old woman said him as our women feed their Children. For the King had chawed so much Betlé, and taken so much Tobacco, that his teeth were all fallen out of his head. The King of Bantam's Palace was never built by any curious Architect. It is a square place, encompassed with a great many Pillars, varnished over with several sorts of colours, against which the King leans when he sits down. At the four Corners there are four great Pillars set in the Earth, at forty foot distance the one from the other, lined with a Mat made of the Rhind of a certain Tree, so thin that it looks like a piece of Linen, which neither Fleas nor Punies will come near. The Roof was covered with Coco-Branches. Not far off, under another Roof supported with four great Pillars, he had sixteen Elephants, the noblest of all those that are in the King's service: for he has a far greater number trained up for war, that are not afraid of wildfire. For his Guard he might have about two thousand men, that were drawn up in Companies under the shade of the next Trees. They are good Soldiers as well by Sea as by Land; great Mahometans, and stand not at all in fear of death. His Haram, or the women's Apartment, was certainly a very small place. For when he had viewed what I brought him, he sent for two old women, to whom he gave some of the Jewels, to go and show them to his Wives. The two women returned back through a little pitiful door; the enclosure being nothing but a kind of Wall made up of Earth and Cowdung mixed together. Whatever he sent to the Women, they never returned any thing again. Which made me believe they would bear a good price; and indeed whatever I sold to him, I sold to good profit, and had my Money well paid me. After this we took our leaves; but the King obliged us to come next day in the evening, because he had a desire to show us a Turkey Dagger, the Haft whereof, being thin of Diamonds, he had a mind to enrich with more Stones. Coming to the English House with our Money, they wondered that the King had laid out twenty thousand Roupies, telling me, they believed it was the best part of his treasure. The next day my Brother and I went to wait upon him at the appointed hour, and we found him sitting in the same place where he sat before. There was a Moulla then read to him, who seemed to interpret to him something of the Alcoran in the Arabic Language. The Lecture being ended, they both rose and went to prayers; which being concluded, the King sent for the Dagger and the Hast which was of Gold. The top of the Handle was already set with Diamonds, and upon the upper part of the cross Bar was cut in Facets, which could not be less worth than fifteen or sixteen thousand Crowns. The King told me, it was presented to him by the Queen of Borneo, and that it was cut at Goa; but that he put a far higher value upon it than I esteemed it to be worth. The Dagger, as well as the Sheath was full of Beazils, or Collets, in very good order; but the King had neither Diamond, Ruby, nor any other Stone to set in the Collets; and therefore desired me to help him to some that might come at an easy rate. I told him it was impossible to find Stones that would fit the Beazils; and therefore that it was better, when he had got Stones enough, to fix other Beazils according to the proportion of the Stones. To which purpose he was first to range all his Stones in Wax; which I showed him how to do at the same time; but that was above his skill. And therefore do what I could to excuse myself to the contrary, he would needs oblige me to carry the Dagger to Batavia; whereupon I took my leave of the King, and departed. CHAP. XXIII. The Author's return to Batavia. His revisiting the King of Bantam. And a relation of several Extravagancies of certain Faquirs in their return from Mecca. ABout eleven a Clock at night we embarked for Batavia; for the night winds blowing from the Land, are the only winds to serve out turn; so that we were at Batavia between ten and eleven the next morning. There I stayed twenty days for the King of Bantam's sake, to make him believe I had sought for that which I knew was impossible to to be found. I had nothing to do all the while, for in Batavia there is no other recreation than gaming and drinking, which was none of my business. At that time the Sieur Cant died, one of the Indian Counsellors, who was sumptuously buried for his good services done to the Company; but the people complained heavily of the injustice which he had done as well to the Soldiers as Mariners. Having stayed twenty days at Bantam, I resolved to go and return the King of Bantam his Dagger again; for it was impossible to meet with Stones to fit his Beazils. However I took along with me some other Stones which he had not seen. Coming to Bantam, the King caused us to be lodged in one of his own Houses in the City, which was made of Bamboo's. Thither in less than a quarter of an hour, the King sent us some Pateches, or sweet Water-Melons, red within like Scarlet. We had also Mangoes, and a certain large Fruit called Pompone, red also within, the meat of it being soft and spongy, but of an excellent taste. Having stayed our stomaches, we went to wait upon the King, whom we found in the same place, with his old Mortar-bearer, who every foot fed him with Betlé with her fingers. There were sitting about the Hall five or six of his Captains, viewing a certain parcel of Fireworks, as Granado's, Rochets, and other devices to run upon the water, which the Chineses had brought; who are the most exquisite at those sports of any people in the world. When the King was at leisure, I returned him his Dagger, telling him, that Batavia was no place to meet with Stones; and that such as were to be found, were valued at double the price they were worth; and that there was no place where he could fit himself, but at Golconda, Goa, or the Diamond Mines. Thereupon the old woman took the Dagger, and carried it into his Haram; nor did the King speak a word more about it. After that I showed him what other Stones I had brought, a parcel whereof I sold him to good profit; the King ordering us to come the next day for payment. The next day about six a Clock in the morning, my Brother and I, and a Dutch Chirurgeon, were going along a narrow way, between a River on the one hand, and the Pales of a great Garden on the other. Behind the Pales a Rascally Bantamois had hid himself; one of those that was newly come from Mecca, and was upon the design of Moquae; that is, in their Language, when the Rascality of the Mahometans return from Mecca, they presently take their Cric in their hands, which is a kind of Poniard, the Blade whereof is half poisoned; with which they run through the streets, and kill all those which are not of the Mahometan Law, till they be killed themselves. These Furies think that in so doing they do God and Mahomet good service, and shall be saved thereby. If any of these madmen be killed, the Rabble of Mahumetans buries them as Saints, and every one contributes to make them a fair Tomb. Sometimes you shall have an idle Rogue, in the Habit of a Dervich, that will build him a Hut near the Tomb, which he undertakes to look to, and strew with Flowers. And as his Alms increase, he adds some other ornament to it. For the fairer and better set out the Tomb is, the more devoutly it is worshipped, and the more Alms it brings in. I remember in the year 1642, that at Sovali, which is the Port of Surat, it happened that a Vessel of the great Moguls returned from Mecca, with a great number of Faquirs or Derviches. For every year the King sends two Vessels to carry and bring back the Pilgrims, who have their passage free. And when these Vessels are to go, the Faquirs come from all parts of India to embark. These Vessels are laden with very good Commodities, which are sold at Mecca, and the profit is distributed among the poor Pilgrims. But the principal is brought back for the next year, amounting to six hundred thousand Roupies at least. 'Tis an ill Market when they do not gain 30 or 40 per Cent. by their Commodities; nay there are some that produce Cent. per Cent. besides, that the principal persons of the Moguls Haram, and other particular persons, send very large gifts to Mecca. But to return to the Bantam Faquir. That Villain lying, as I said, behind the Pales, as my Brother and I, and the Dutch Chirurgeon came toward him, all three abreast, thrust his Pike between the Pales, thinking to have astbbed it into one of our breasts. The Dutch man being next the River, and somewhat before the rest, the head of his Pike ran into his Breeches; whereupon we both laid hold of the Staff. But my Brother being next the Pales, presently leaped over, and ran the Faquir thorough. Whereupon several Chineses, and other Idolaters, came and gave my Brother thanks for killing him. After that we waited upon the King, and told him what my Brother had done; who was so far from being displeased, that he gave my Brother a Girdle. For the King and his Governors are glad when those Rogues are slain, knowing them to be Desperadoes, not fit to live. The next day, coming to take my leave of the English Precedent, he showed me two strings of Diamonds, and two Services of Silver, which came from England. He would have sold them all, but I only bought one of the strings of Diamonds, the other being foul; and for the Silver, I would have bought it, had they coined Silver in Batavia, as they were wont to do. Formerly the Hollanders coined Reals, Half-Reals, and Quarter-Reals, bearing on the one side the stamp of a Ship, on the other V, O, C, like a Character, as in the Figure, signifying in Dutch, Vor Ost Indian company, for the East Indian Company. Which they did for the sake of the Chinese, who loving Silver better than Gold, carried away all the Silver that was coined at Batavia, at good rates. But length they left it off, finding so few people that made use of Silver. CHAP. XXIV. Of the War of the Hollanders with the Emperor of Java. HAving taken my leave of the English Precedent, I returned to Batavia; where having little to do, I resolved to give a visit to the King of Japar, otherwise called the Emperor of Java. This King was formerly King of all the Island, till the King of Bantam, who was only Governor of a Province, rebelled against him; the Hollanders being made by the divisions of those two Princes. For when the King of Japar besieged Batavia, the King of Bantam relieved the Hollanders; and when they were attacked by the King of Bantam, the King of Japar came to their assistance. And when those two Kings were together by the ears, the Hollanders always aided the weakest. The King of Japar keeps his Court in a City of the same name, distant from Batavia some thirty Leagues. You may coast along the shore to it by Sea; but the City stands above eight Leagues up in the Land. From the City there is a fine Walk to the Sea, where there is a handsome Port, and fairer Houses than any in the City. And the King would live there if he thought it safe. The day before I departed, I went to take my leave of one of the Indian Counsellors, and telling him that I was going to wait upon the King of Japar, he stood amazed, in regard the King and the Hollanders were mortal Enemies; of which he gave me this account: The deceased King, Father to the King that now reigns, since the Hollanders built their Fort of Batavia would never have any peace with them. And though that during the war the Hollanders took ten of his Subjects, for one of theirs, and offered ten for one in exchange, yet he would never exchange one upon any condition whatsoever, and charged his Son upon his deathbed never to release one. This obstinacy very much troubled the Dutch General, and all the rest in Batavia, and obliged them to consult upon ways how to right themselves Now it is the custom, when a Mahometan King dies, that his Successor sends certain great Lords of his Courtto Mecca with Presents, as well to engage them to pray for the Soul of the deceased; as also to give thanks to God and Mahomet for the coming of a new King to the Throne without any impediment; and to pray for the blessing of Victory over all his Enemies. But the new King and his Council were at a loss how to accomplish this Voyage; for first the King had none but little Vessels, that were wont only to sail along by the shore, by reason of the inexperience of his Seamen; and in the second place the Dutch were always plying to and fro about the mouths of his Havens, to surprise his Subjects if they stirred forth. For the safety therefore of his Pilgrims, the King at last concludes upon making an agreement with the English. For which reason he dispatches away an Envoy to Bantam, to the English Precedent and his Council, who promised to lend him the biggest Vessel and the best mounted which the Company had in the Indies. In lieu whereof the English were to pay but half Customs for ever, for all Commodities exported or imported out of his Country. Which Treaty being ratified, the English furnished him with three stout Vessels, Manned and Gunned beyond an ordinary rate. Thereupon nine of the principal Lords of the Court, and most of the Blood Royal, with a Train of a hundred persons, embarked themselves in the great Vessel. But all these preparations could not be carried so privately, but that the Dutch had intelligence of it by their Spies. Thereupon the General of the Dutch makes ready three Ships, and lying just in the straight of Bantams mouth; so soon as the English came up, (for they had no other way) let fly at them so roundly, that the English fearing lest their Vessels would be sunk, struck Sail; which the Java Lords seeing, called the English Traitors, and drawing their poisoned Daggers, cried a Mocca upon the English, killing a great number of them before they had time to put themselves into a posture of defence. And perhaps there would not one of them have escaped, had not the Hollanders come aboard as they did. Some of the Java Lords, and about twenty of their Attendants, would take no quarter; so that the Hollanders were forced to fight for't, and at last they got the better, with the loss of seven or eight men. The English Vessel being carried into Batavia, the General very civilly sent both the Prisoners and the Vessel home again; withal giving notice to the King, that he was ready to make an exchange of Prisoners with him. But the King would not so much as Harken to any such proposition; returning for answer, that though the Hollanders had three times as many of his Subjects, he would not release so much as one Hollander. So that the poor Dutch were kept slaves in Java, and the Javanners died miserable in Batavia. As for the Javanners, they are good Soldiers. And it is reported, that while Batavia was besieged by the King of Bantam in the year 1659., a Dutch Soldier lying in Ambuscade in a Marsh, a Javanner, little dreaming that any body had been there, came to the same place to discover the Enemy; and was by the Dutch man thrust with his Pike into his Body. Upon which the Javanner finding himself wounded, did not strive to pull the Pike out of the body, but thrust himself farther upon it, to the end he might come at his Enemy, whom he stabbed to the heart, as soon as he got within his reach. CHAP. XXV. The Author buries his Brother; and is again quarrelled withal by by the General and his Council. WHile I stayed at Batavia, my Brother died; and it was pretty to consider what the Dutch made me pay for his Funeral. The first expense is for the Fees of those that beg leave for the Corpse to be buried; of whom the more there are, the more honourable the Funeral is esteemed. I sent six, and paid them to my wonder for that seventy-two Crowns. The see for the Pall is a right that belongs to the poor, for which I paid two Crowns. There was a Vessel of Spanish Wine drank out, that cost me two hundred Piastres. I gave twenty-six more for three Westphalia Hams, and some Neats-tongues, and twentytwo for Baked Meats. To the Bearers I gave twenty Crowns, and sixteen for a place in the Churchyard, for they asked me a hundred to bury him in the Church. And all these are Fees demanded. So that my Brother's Funeral cost me twelve hundred and twenty three Livres of French Money. Being thus put by the two Voyages which I intended to Japan and Sumatra, I was advised to lay out my Money in Requenings or Debentures of the Servants of the Holland Company; which they that have no mind to return into their own Country, as being settled in the Indies, will sell at an easy rate; insomuch, that for sixty or seventy you may buy a hundred Piastres; the Act and Acquittance of the Seller being made and registered by the Public Notary. Thereupon I bought of one of the public Notaries, who had Bills in his hands, to the value of about eleven thousand Gelder's, at fourscore and two for the hundred. After that, I bought by means of the Advocate of the Treasury, six thousand Gelder's more, at seventy-nine for the hundred. But some few days after, meeting with the same Advocate again, he passed a Compliment upon me, and told me, he was very much troubled for those that had bought Debentures, in regard that the General and the Council had commanded him to recall all Debentures that had been sold; for they had considered, how sad a thing it would be, for the poor men to lose so much of their Salaries. I answered him, that for my part I was willing to return mine, provided I might have my Money again. About six or seven hours after, I was sent for by the General and his Council. When I came there, they asked me why I had not returned the Debentures, which I had bought, to the Advocate, who had demanded them by their order. I answered them, that they were at Bantam, whither I had sent them in order to my passage home; in regard that the English Precedent had offered me a convenience to go along with him. The Council answered me, that the Dutch Ships were as good as the English, and very courteously assured me, they would give order for a Cabin to myself in the Vice-Admiral. But withal they told me, I must deliver up my Debentures before I stirred; assuring me, that they would give me a Bill to be reimbursed my Money by the Company in Holland. I thought it very hard, for I knew not how to trust 'em; but seeing the Merchants, Commanders, and all other persons clapped up, and their Papers taken from them by force, that had bought Debentures; I thought it the best way to deliver mine, and stand to their courtesy. I often pressed the General and the Council for my Bill, but after many delays the General ascertained me, that my Bill should be in Holland as soon as I. Thereupon desiring the Vice-Admiral and some others to be my Wirnesses of what the General promised, I took my leave of him, very much repenting my going to Batavia. CHAP. XXVI. The Author embarks in a Dutch Vessel, to return into Europe. THE next day I went aboard the Vice-Admiral, and the third day after we set sail, and as soon as we were out of the Straight, we discovered the Islands of the Prince. From thence being in the Altitude of the Coco Islands, we beat about two days to discover them; but all to no purpose, thereupon we made directly for the Cape of good Hope. The forty-fifth day after our departure from Batavia, our Vice-Admiral neglected to put out his Lights; believing all the Fleet had been before at the Cape; so that it happened that one of the Fleet being behind, and not carrying any Lights out neither, it being a dark night, fell foul upon us, which put every man to his prayers, all people believing the Vessel had been lost; and indeed had she not been a sound staunch Ship (for the Provinces were so accounted) she could never have endured so terrible a shock. At length we cleared ourselves, by cutting off the Yards of the Maestricht that hung in our Cordage. The fifty-fifth we came within view of the Cape of good Hope; but were forced to keep the Sea, because the waves rolled so that we were not able to come to an Anchor; not that the Wind was extreme high, but because the Southwind had blown so long that it had forced the Water to that part. When the Sea grew calm, we came to an Anchor. But of all the people that ever I saw in all my travels, I never saw any so hideous nor so brutish as the Kalmouks, of which I have spoken in my Persian Travels; and those of the Cape of good Hope, whom they call Cafres', or Hosentotes. When they speak, they make a noise with their tongues, like the breaking of wind backward; and though they hardly speak articulately, yet they easily understand one another. They cover themselves with the Skins of wild Beasts, which they kill in the Woods; in Winter wearing the hairy part innermost, and in Summer outermost. But there are none but the best sort among them who are thus clad, the rest wear nothing but a nasty rag about their privy parts. The men and the women are lean and short; and when they bring forth a Male-child, the Mothers cut out his right Stone; and presently give him Water to drink, and Tobacco to eat. They cut out the right Testicle, because, say they, it makes them swifter to run. There are some of them that will catch a Roebuck running. They neither know what belongs to Gold nor Silver; and for Religion, they have none among them. So soon as we cast Anchor, four women came aboard us, and brought us four young Ostriches; which were boiled for some sick people that we had aboard. After that they brought great store of Tortoise-Shells, and Ostriches Eggs, and other Eggs as big as Goose Eggs; which though they had no Yolk, tasted very well. The Birds that lay these Eggs are a sort of Geese, and so fat that they are hardly to be eaten, tasting rather like Fish than Flesh. The women seeing our Cook throw away the Guts of two or three Fowl which he was dressing, took them up, and squeezing out the Ordure, eat them as they were; being hugely pleased with the Aqua Vitae which the Captain gave them. Neither men nor women are ashamed to show their nakedness, for indeed they are but a sort of human Beasts. So soon as the Ship arrives, they bring their Beefs to the shore, with what other Commodities they have, to barter for strong Water and Tobacco, Crystal or Agate Beads; or any sort of old Iron work. If they are not satisfied with what you offer them, away they fly; and then giving a whistle all their cattle follow 'em; nor shall you ever see 'em again. Some, when they saw 'em fly, would shoot and kill their cattle; but after that for some years they would never bring any more. 'Tis a very great convenience for the Vessels that touch there, to take in fresh Victuals; and the Hollanders did well to build a Fort there. It is now a good handsome Town, inhabited by all sorts, that live with the Hollanders; and all sorts of Grain, which are brought out of Europe or Asia and sowed there, come to better perfection there then in other parts. The Country lies in thirtyfive Degrees, and some few Minutes over, so that it cannot be said that either the heat or situation of the Climate makes these Cafres' so black. Being desirous to know the reason, and why they stunk so terribly, I learned it from a Girl that was bred up in the Fort, who was taken from her Mother, as soon as she was born, and was white like our women in Europe; she told me, that the reason why the Cafres' are so black is, because they rub themselves with a grease or Ointment composed of several sorts of Drugs; wherewith should they not anoint themselves very often, and as soon as they were born, they should become Hydropsical, as the Blacks of Africa, and the Abyssins' are; or like the people of Saba, that never live above forty years, and are always troubled with one Leg twice as big as the other. These Cafres', as brutish as they are, have yet some knowledge of Simples, which they know to apply to several Diseases; which the Hollanders have several times experienced. Of nineteen sick persons that we had in our Ship, fifteen were committed to the care of these Cafres', being troubled with Ulcers in their Legs, and old wounds which they had received in the wars; and in less than fifteen days they were all perfectly cured. Every one of these had two Cafres' to look after him; and according to the condition of the wound or Ulcer, they went and fetched Simples, which they bruised between two Stones, and applied to the sore. As for the other four, they were so far gone with the Pox, that they would not trust the Cafres' with them, having been given over at Batavia, and so they all died, between the Cape and St. Helen's. In the year 1661., a Gentleman of Britanny being at Batavia, was so bit by the Gnats in the night, that his Leg exulcerated presently in such a manner, as to puzzle all the art and skill of the Surgeons in that Town. When he came to the Cape of good Hope, the Captain of the Ship sending him ashore, the Cafres' came about him, and after they had beheld him, they told him if he would trust to them they would cure him. The Captain thereupon committed him to their care, who cured him and made him a sound man in less than fifteen days. When a Ship comes to an Anchor in the Cape, it is the fashion for him that commands the Ship, to give leave to some part of the Mariners and Soldiers to go ashore to refresh themselves. The sickly have first leave by turns, and go to the Town, where they are dieted and lodged for seven or eight Sous a day, and are very well used. It is the custom of the Hollanders, when they stay here, to send out parties of Soldiers upon the discovery of the upland Country, and they that go farthest are best rewarded. With this design a party of Soldiers, under the Command of a Sergeant, far advanced in the Country; and night coming on, they made a great fire, as well to keep themselves from the Lions, as to warm themsèlves, and so lay down to sleep round about it. Being asleep, a Lion came and seized one of the Soldier's Arms, which the Sergeant perceiving, immediately shot the Lion with his Carbine; but when he was dead, they had much ado to open the Lion's mouth, to get out the Soldiers Arm. Thus it appears a vulgar error, to believe that Lions will not come near the fire. As for the Soldier, the Cafres' cured his Arm in twelve days. There are in the Fort abundance of Lions and Tigers Skins; among the rest, there was the Skin of a Horse which the Cafres' had killed; it was white, crossed with black streaks, spotted like a Leopard, without a Tail. Two or three Leagues from the Hollanders Fort, there was a Lion found dead, with four Porcupines Quills in his body, the third part whereof had pierced his flesh. So that it was judged, that the Porcupine had killed the Lion. The Skin, with the Quills in it, is kept in the Fort. A League from the Fort, is a fair Town, that grows bigger and bigger every day. When the Holland Company arrives there with their Ships, if any Soldier or Mariner will live there, they are very glad of it. They have as much ground as they can manage; where they have all sorts of Herbs, and Pulse, and as much Rice, and as many Grapes as they can desire. They have also young Ostriches, Beef, Sea-fish, and sweet water. To catch the Ostriches when they please, they got their Nests when they are young, and driving a stake in the ground, tie the Birds by one Leg to the stake, and when they are old enough they come and take them out of the Nest, from whence it is impossible to fly away. When the Hollanders began to inhabit the Cape, they took a young Girl from her Mother, as soon as she was born; she is white, only her Nose is a little flat. A French man got her with Child, and would have married her; but the Company were so far from permitting him, that they took away above a hundred Livres of the Maid's wages from her, to punish her for the misdemeanour, which was somewhat hard. There are great numbers of Lions and Tigers, which the Hollanders have a pretty invention to take; they fasten a Carbine to a stake, driven into the Earth, and lay meat round about the Gun, which meat is fastened with a string to the Trigger. So that when the Beast snatches the meat, the string pulls the Trigger, and the Gun going off, hits the Lion either in the throat or the breast. The Cafres' feed upon a Root like our Skirrets, which they roast and make bread of. Sometimes they grinned it into flower, and then it tastes like a Walnut. For their food they eat the same Root raw, with raw Fish; with the Entrails of Beasts, out of which they only squeeze the ordure. As for the bowels of the wild Beasts, the women wear them dried about their Legs, especially the bowels of those Beasts which their Husbands kill, which they look upon as a kind of Ornament. They also feed upon Tortoises, when they have so far heated them at the fire, as to make the Shells come off. They are very expert in darting their Azagaya's; and those that have none, make use of pointed sticks, which they will launce a great way. With these they go down to the Seaside, and as soon as ever they spy a Fish near the top of the water, they will not fail to strike him. As for their Birds, which are like our Ducks, whose Eggs are without any Yolk; they breed in such great quantities in the Country, that in a Bay about eighteen Miles from the Cape, you may knock them on the head with a stick. The Hollanders once carried a young Cafre to the General at Batavia, who bred him carefully up, teaching him to understand the Dutch and Portugal Languages perfectly well. At length being desirous to return into his Country, the General gave him very good clothes, and good Linen, hoping that he would have lived among the Hollanders, and been serviceable to them in the discovery of the Country; but so soon as he got home, he fling his clothes i' the Sea, and returned wild among his fellow Natives, eating raw flesh as he did before, and quite forgetting his Benefactors. When the Cafres' go a hunting, they go a great number together, and make such a prodigious howling and yelling, that they fright the very Breasts themselves, and in that affright with ease destroy them; and I have been assured, that their cries do terrify the Lions themselves. The women are of so hot a constitution of Body, that at the times that their monthly customs are upon 'em, they happen to make water, and that an European chances to set his feet upon it, it causes an immediate Headache and Fever, which many times turns to the Plague. CHAP. XXVII. The Holland Fleet arrives at St. Helen's. The description of the Island. HAving stayed two and twenty days at the Cape of good Hope, seeing that the Wind was favourable, we weighed, and steered for St. Helen's. When we were under Sail, the Mariners cried out, they would sleep till they came into St. Helen's Road. For the wind is very constant, and carries you in sixteen or eighteen days to the Road of the Island. All the trouble that our Mariners had, was that fourteen days after our departure from the Cape, they were often forced to the Topmast head, upon discovery of the Island; for as soon as you discover the Island, the Pilot must take care to steer to the North-side of the Island, because there is no casting Anchor but on that side, and that very near the shore too; by reason of the deepness of the water; for if the Anchors come not to take hold, the current of the water and the wind carries the Ship quite out of the Road, which there is no recovering again, because the wind never changes. So soon as the Ships came to an Anchor, part of the Seamen were sent ashore to get wild Hogs, of which there are great plenty; and to gather Sorrel, which grows in great abundance; and indeed they not only send the Seamen, but all the Pigs, Sheep, Geese, Ducks, and Pullet's aboard, to feed upon that Sorrel, which purges them in such a manner, that in a few days they became so fat, that by that time we came to Holland they were hardly to be eaten. That Sorrel has the same operation upon the men, who boiling their wild Swine's flesh, Rice, and Sorrel together, make thereof a kind of Pottage so excellent, that it keeps their bodies open by an insensible purgation. There are two places upon the Coast of St. Helen's where Ships may come to an Anchor. But the best is that where we lay, by reason that ground is very good, and for that the water that falls from the Mountain is the best in the Island. In this part of the Island there is no plain, for the Mountain descends to the very shore of the Sea. It is not so good anchoring in the other Road; but there is a very handsome plain, where you may sow or plant whatever you please. There are great store of Citrons, and some Oranges, which the Portugals had formerly planted there. For that Nation has that virtue, that wherever they come, they make the place the better for those that come after them; whereas the Hollanders endeavour to destroy all things wherever they set footing. I confess the Commanders are not of that humour, but the Seamen and Soldiers, who cry one to another, we shall never come hither any more, and out of greediness will cut down a whole tree instead of gathering the fruit. Some days after there arrived a Portugueze Vessel from Guiny, full of Slaves, which were bound for the Mines of Peru. Some of the Hollanders that understood the language of the Negroes, told 'em how miserably they would be used, and thereupon the next night two hundred and fifty of them threw themselves into the Sea. And indeed it is a miserable slavery; for sometimes after they have mined in some places for some days together, the Earth being lose, falls down and kills four or five hundred at a time. Besides, that after they have been mining awhile, their Faces, their Eyes, and their Skins change colour; which proceeds from the vapours that arise from those concavities; nor could they subsist in those places, but for the quantity of strong Water which they give both to the men and women. There are some that are made free by their Masters, who labour however for their living; but between Saturday night and Monday morning they spend all their week's wages in strong Water, which is very dear; so that they always live miserably. Being ready to departed the Island of St. Helen's, the Admiral called a Council, to advise which way to steer. The greatest part were for steering more to the West, then to the South; because the season for sailing was far spent; and for that if we steered for the West Indies, we should find the wind more proper to carry us into Holland. But we had no sooner crossed the Line, but we found the wind quite contrary to what the Mariners expected; so that we were forced to steer to the sixty-fourth Degree of Altitude with the Island, and so return by the North into Holland. CHAP. XXVIII. The Holland Fleet sets Still from St. Helen's, and prosperously arrives in Holland. THE next day after the Admiral had called a Council, we weighed and set Sail about ten a Clock at night. Three days after our departure from St. Helen's, the Seamen were called very duly to prayers morning and evening; though all the time we stayed in the road, they never minded any such matter; which made me wonder, to find they should be more devout when they were out of danger, than when they were in jeopardy. After several other days sailing, we discovered the Coast of Island, and then the Island of Ferella, where we joined with the Holland Fleet that stayed for us. Here it is that the Commander in chief calls to account all the Mariners for their misdemeanours during the whole Voyage. Our Ship was bound for Zealand; but we were forced to lie out at Sea seven days before we could get into Flushing, because the Sand had changed its place. Coming to an Anchor before Flushing, two of the Company came aboard to welcome us home, and to advise us to lock our Chests, and put our marks upon them; for all Chests are carried into the East India House, where when the owners come for them, they are ordered to open them, lest they should have any counterband goods therein. Thereupon I set a mark upon my Chests, and went ashore, after I had given a good character of the Captain, and his civility to me all the Voyage, and thence proceeded by Land to Middleburgh. Four days after I came to Middleburgh, I went to fetch my Chests; and finding the two Directors there, one a Zealander, the other of Horn, who came first aboard us; I produced my Keys, and offered my Chests to be opened. But the Zealander more civil than the Horner, delivered me my Keys again, and taking my word, told me I was free to take away my goods. And indeed I have always observed, that the Northern people are always more rude and ungentile than the Southern. As for the 17500 Florins which the General of Batavia promised should be paid me upon my arrival in Holland, I received so many delays and put off's, that I was at length forced to commence a Suit that lasted above two years; nor could I get a public Notary either at Amsterdam or the Hague, that would make me out a Protest, every one fearing the Directors, who were both Judges and Parties. At length after five years wrangling and jangling, the Director wrote to my Brother at Batavia (for I was then returned again to the Indies) that if I would accept of 10000 Livers, he might receive it for me; which he did, and was forced to give them an acquittance for the whole. This is the return which I made from the Indies in the year 1649, and the only time that ever I returned by Sea; having performed all the rest of my Travels by Land, not counting my short Voyages through the Mediterranean for any thing. And as for my first Travels, I performed them all by Land, from Paris through Germany and Hungary, as far as Constantinople; whither I returned again in the year 1669. From Constantinople I went to Smyrna, thence I sailed for Ligorn; from Ligorn I travelled by Land to Genoa, thence to Turin, and so to Paris. The End. THE INDEX TO THE Indian Travels. A. ABdoul-Coutou-Sha, the present King of Golconda, pag. 65. His Children, 66. His reply to the Cannoneer that would have taken off Aurengzeb's head, 68 See Mirgimola. Abdul Feta, Gelul Eddin Mahomet, 107. Aceph Ben Ali takes Mascate from the Dutch, 145. His wondrous Pearl. ibid. Agra, the King's Palace there, 48, 49. Alegamma Motiar of Ceylan turns Christian, and his answer to the Jesuits, 163. Amadabat, and the Trade thereof, 37. Amber, where found, 151, 152. Ambergreese, where found, 152. Apes, their antipathy against the Crows, 40. The danger of killing one, ibid. Hospitals for them, 48. How set together by the ears, 94. Asem, the Kingdom, 187. Asouf-Kan's Policy, 112. Assists Sha-Jehan, ibid. Ast-Kan, 60. Takes Dultabat, 60, 61. Atek, 44. Ava, 143. Augans, a strange sort of people, 44. Aureng-abat made a City, 61. Aurengzeb his cruelty at Callabas, 33, 35. His Dominions, 106. His Power, 108. His Ambition and craft: he joins with his Brother, Morad-Backshe, 110, defeats Dara-Sha, ibid. deceives Morad, and sends him to Prison, ibid. He ascends the Throne, 116. He affronts his Father, 120. His Ambassadors affronted by the King of Persia, 121. His State when he sits upon his Throne, 123. B. BAgnagar, see Golconda. pag. 61. Banarou, 52. Bannians never kill any living thing, 37. Their cruelty to them that do, ibid. Their veneration for Apes. 39, outdo the Jews, 44. Bantam the King visited by the Author; his Entertainment, 196, 197, etc. Bargant, 41. The Raja of Bargant entertains the Author. Baroche, 36. Begum Saheb, 108, imprisoned by Aurengzeb; deprived of her wealth: her death suspected, 113, 114: restored to favour: her wit, 121. Bengala, the Revenue of it, 51. Bezoar, 153, etc. Boutan, a Kingdom; the Commodities thereof, 182, 183, etc. Bramins, a strange story of one, 172. Brampour, 31; a Tumuli there, and the occasion, ibid. Brokers Indian, 133. Buildings public in India, how reared, 35. C. CAboul, pag 44. Callabas, 33. Calicuts, where made, 31, 33, 40, 43, 52. Cambava, 36. Caravasera's Indian, the method therein, 32. Cardamons, where had, 73. Carriages Indian, 27. Carriers; the Order and Government among them. Cast, the signification and kinds, 161, 162. cattle, how fed in India, 97. Chalaour, 42. Cheats in Indian Commodities, 132, 133. Check of Mecca comes to Golconda in disguise, 66. Marries the King's Daughter, 67. Hinders him from surrendering to Aurengzeb, 68 Cheraffs-Indian Bankers, 22, subtler than the Jews, 23. Chineses' poison the Dutch Soldiers, 173. Chites, 40. Chitpour, ib. Cifers' Indian, 23. Cochin Besieged by the Dutch, 88, Taken, 89. Dutch make a mock King of it, ibid. Collasar, 33. Commodities of the Great Mogul's Country, 126, etc. and their price, 128, 129, 130. Kalmouks, a description of the People and Country, 204, etc. Candevir, 93. Coral, Where found, 151. Cottons, where made, 31, 36. Where whitened, 36. Colour, the Diamond-Mine, 137, 141. Coins Arabian, 1. Moguls, 2. His Tributaries, 3. Coins called Pagods, 4, 5. English and Dutch, 5, 6. Made by the King of Chida and Pera, 6. By the King of Achen, Kings of Macassar, the Celebes, and Camboya, 7. By the King of Siam, ib. By the Kings of Asem, Tipoura, Arakan and Pegu, 8. Coins of China and Tunquin, ib. Of Japon, 9 Coins Indian, representing the twelve signs, 10. Coins Indian, 22. Coins made by the Portugals, 12. Coins Muscovian, 13. Coins European, their value in India, 21, 22. Coinage Indian, 17. What loss, what gain by it, ib. Thrown about at the King's Ascent to the Throne, 107. Currant at the Diamond-Mines, 141. Cranganor, 89, promised by the Dutch to Samarin, ib. Demolished, ib. Crocodiles may be wounded, 55. How they die, ib. Customs Indian, 17. Customs affronted by an English Captain, 17. Exacted by the Persians from the English, 75. D. DAca, pag. 55. Daman besieged by Aurengzeb, 72. Dara-Sha his duty to his Father, 108. Defeated by his Brother, 110. He flies into Scindi, he fights a second Battle with Aurengzeb: He is betrayed by Jessomseing, 114, then by Gion-Kan, 115. His death, 116. Dehly, 45. De Lan, a Dutch Chirurgeon, let's the Mogul, his Mother and Wife Blood, 103. Dervichs, 4. See Faquirs. Diamonds, a discourse thereof, 134, etc. The forms of several Diamonds, 148, 149. Vulgar error concerning the purchase of them, 141. Diamond Miners, their customs, 138. Dultabat, 60, 61. Dutch send an Ambassador to China, 192. Their revenge upon the Jesuits, 193. Dutch break their word with the King of Caudy, 194; with the King of Achen; at War with the King of Java, 202; they quarrel with the Author. E. ELephants destroy the Bannian's Idols, pag. 34; the Woods of Mirda, 43, affrighted; the loss of Aurengzeb's Army, 72; how taken, 95; how tamed, ib. Their fury, ib. The difference between them, 96. Eaten by the Natives, ib. How taken in Ceilan, ib. The tusks due to the Lord, ib. How the female receives the male, ib. A remark peculiar to Ceilan Elephants, ib. Their age, ib. The number kept by the Great Mogul, and his Expenses, 97; how washed, 103. Emir-jemla, 116, 118. Emeralds, the vulgar error concerning them, 114. Eunuches, covetous of Monuments, 5. Exchange Indian, 26, 27. F. FAquirs; their manner of travelling, pag. 41; their Habit and Arms, ib. The respect given them, ib. Their Religion, 160: their Penances, 165, etc. Their extravagancies returning from Mecca. Feast; the Great Mogul's grand Feast when he is weighed, 122. G. GAnges, pag. 51, an ordinary River, ib. and bad water, 52. Gani; see Colour. Gate, what manner of place, 34. Gehanabad, 45; the Mogul's Palace there, 45, 46, 47. Gehanguir, ninth King of the Indians. He permits Nourmahal his Wise to Reign in his stead. He put out his Eldest Son's eyes, 111. He prefers his Grandchild to the Throne, ib. Dies, ib. Gion-Kan a Traitor; his death, 115. Goa, the present State of it, 74. Golconda described, 61. The Policy and Government of the City, 64. Gold, where found, 156, etc. Gomron. Road heat excessive, injures the Ships, 90. Gondicot taken by Mirgimola, 98. Described, ib. Govaleor, 35. The Prison for the Indian Grandees, ib. Guards, how relieved at Golconda, 64. H. HAlabas, pag. 52. The Governor a great Person, ib. The cruelty of his Physician, ib. Hameth-Sheck, 107. I. JAva, the King thereof, pag. 202. Javaniers, good Soldiers, 203. Jessomseing betrays Dara-Sha, 114. Idolaters belief touching a Deity, 164. Of the state of the Soul after death, 167. Of their burning their dead, 168. Their several customs, 179. Idolatrous Princes of Asia, 163. Indians cunninger than the Jews, 23. Their manner of crossing Rivers, 100, 102. Their Superstition, 97. The Penance of the Women, ib. Their Alms, ib. Their Pilgrimages, 101. Their craftiness, 102. Their Physic, 102. Their honesty, 136, 137. Their manner of driving bargains, ib. Their Penances, 181. Indigo, where made, 36, 37, 43. Indolstan bounded, 106. Iron of Golconda, the best, 65. Island of St. Helen's described. Ivory the best, 96. Justice in India quick, 99, 100 K. Kemerouf, a City, pag. 188. L. LAhor, pag. 45. Letter-Carriers, 110. Lions, how tamed, 40. M. MAcassar, a Kingdom described, 191. The King shoots an English Malefactor with a poisoned Arrow, 191. His difference with the Hollanders, 192. Maldives Islands, 90. Malvares, Indian Pirates, 71, 182. Mascate, 16. Maslipatan, 70. Matura, one of the chiefest Pagods of the Indians, 48. Measures Indian, 27. Mingrela, 73. A Miracle done by a Bramin, 101, 102. Miram-Sha, 107. Mirda, 43. Mirgimola, the King of Golconda's General, 67. He is suspected by the King, ib. He revolts, 68 He joins with Aurengzeb, ib. besieges the King, ib. and cunningly settles a new Peace, ib. entertains the Author at Gondicot, 98, 99 How he dispatched business, 99 He conquers Asem, 187. Mirza-Abdoul-Cofing marries the King of Golconda's third Daughter, 69. Mirza Mahomed, 68 See Check of Mecca. Moguls, why so called, 106. Money; the force of it in India, 19 What most proper to be carried into India, 18, 21. Monuments Indian; their sumptuousness, 49, 50, 52, 61. Morad-Backshe, 108, Viceroy of Guzerat, ib. He rebels against his Father, 109, besieges Surat, ib. proclaims himself King, ib. He gives credit to Aurengzeb's fallacies, ib. joins with him, 110, and defeats Dara-Sha, ib. wounded, ib. He sees his error, is betrayed, and sent to Govaleor, ib. Mountebanks, Indian, 36. Multan, 43. Musk, 153. Its adulterations. ib. N. NAder, pag. 35. Nahab, what it signifies, 53. Navapoura, 30, famous for Rice, ib. Nava-Sevagi revolts from the King of Visapour, 73. Nourmahal, Queen of India, her Extraction, 11, 12. O. OBservations particular upon the Mogul's Court, pag. 124, 125. Omrahs', their duty, 122. Ormus; the manner of Sailing from Ormus to Surat, 15. Outemeda, 97. P. PAgods Indian described, 92, 93, 94, 97, 102. The most celebrated among the Indians, 173, etc. Palicat, 93. Passage by Sea from Ormus to Maslipatan, 90. Passes, where required, 44, 52. Patna, 53. Peacock's plentiful, 37. How caught, ib. Pearls, and where fished for, 145. How bred, how fished for, and at what time, 146, etc. Perca, a petty Indian King, 89. Physicians, none in India, but such as attend Princes, 102. Pilgrimages of the Indians, 179. Ponte Gall, 194. Portugals, their power in Goa, 74, 75. Their excessive proneness to revenge, ib. discover a strange Country, 83, 84. Priests Indian, how maintained, Presents given by the Author at the Great Mogul's Court, 59 R. RAge-Mehide, 54. Raolconda, Diamond-Mine, 134. Rauchenara-Begum, 108, always a friend to Aurengzeb. His kindness to her; their falling out, 121. Religion of the Mahometans in the Indies, 159, etc. Of the Idolatrous Indians, 161. Roads from Ispahan to Agra through Gomron, 15; from Surat to Agra through Brampour and Seronge, 30, through Amadabat, 36. From Ispahan to Agra, through Candahar, 43. From Dehly to Agra, 48. From Agra to Patna, and Daca, 51. From Surat to Golconda, 60. From Golconda to Maslipatan, 69. From Surat to Goa; from Goa to Golconda, through Visapour, 71. From Goa to Maslipatan, through Cochin, 88 From Maslipatan to Gandicot, 91. From Gandicot to Golconda, 100; to the Mines, 137, 139, 141. Rodas the Fortress, 139. Roupies, the difference of them, 20. Rubies, the forms of several, 149, 150. Rule to know the price of Diamonds, 142, 143. S. Saltpetre, where refined, 53. Samarin, an Indian King, 89. Saseron, 53. Say-pieces Indian, 25, 26. Sepper chekour, 115, sent to Govaleor, 116. Sera, the signification of the word, 32. Seronge, 33. Serpents, their vast bulk, and deadly venom, 34. Seva-gi continues the revolt, 73. He finds vast Treasures, ib. Sha-Est-Kan, 20, 24, 56; buys the Author's Jewels, 104; his kindness to the Author, ib. revolts to Aurengzeb, 110. Sha-Jehan first called Sha-Bedin-Mahomet, 107. His good Government, 108. He marries a young Lady, ib. His children, ib. His love to his children, ib. He rebels against his Father, is disinherited, 111. He is advanced to the Throne, 112. His cruelty, ib. He is kept Prisoner by Aurengzeb, and dies, 113. Siam, a Kingdom; the King of it, 119, etc. Siren, 143. Sodomy abominated by the Indians, 54. Solyman Chekour defeats. his Uncle, 109 Betrayed by Raja Roup, flies to Nactiran, 114. Is delivered up by him, 119. Sent Prisoner to Govaleor. Soumelpour, 139. Stones coloured, where found, 143. Stones medicinal, and their effects, 154, 155. Stories of the man that lost his child in Swimming, 38. Of the Merchant's Wife that desired a child, 39 Of the Merchant that ne'er told lie, ib. The Story of Monsieur Belloy, 79. Of the rich Leper in Goa, ib. Of St. Amant, and John de Rose, and the Sieur Marests, ib. 80, 81, etc. Of Father Ephraim, 85, 86, 87. Sultan Abousaid-Mirza, 107. Sultan Babur, 107. Sultan Boulaki preferred by Sha-Jehan, 111. Betrayed by Asouf-Kan, 112. Retires into Persia, ib. Sultan Kourom, 107. See Sha-Jehan. Sultan Mahomed, Mogul, 107. Sultan Mahomed, Aurengzeb s Son, marries the second Daughter of the King of Golconda, 69. He flies to his Uncle, 117. Is betrayed by Emir-Jemla, and imprisoned, 118, 119. Sultan Selim, alias Jehanguir Patska, 107. Sultan Soujah, 108. Rebels, 109. He flies to the King of Arakan, marries his Daughter, 119. Plots against him, ib. His death, 120. Sumbaco King of Macassar, 192. Surat, 15. T. TAmurleng, 106. Tari, what, 65. Tavernier abused at the Mogul's Court, 57, 58. Tenara a sweet place, 69. Thrones; the description of the Mogul's Thrones, 122, etc. Thunderbolts three at a time, 91. Tipra a Kingdom, 186. Travelling, the manner in India, 27, 29. Treachery, a notable piece put upon the Author at Gomron, 157. Turquoises, where found, 144. V Visapour described, 72. W. WAys; Highways in India, 100 Weights Indian for Gold and Silver, 18. Other weights, 27. Of Diamonds, 140. Of coloured Stones, 144. Of Pearls, 148. Winds hot, their stifling nature, 44. Wives of the Indians burned alive with their dead Husbands, 169, 170, 171, 172. Woods of Bambous, 94. A NEW RELATION OF The Inner-Part OF THE Grand Seignor's SERAGLIO. Containing Several Remarkable Particulars, never before exposed to public view. By J. B. TAVERNIER, Baron of Aubonne. LONDON: Printed, and Sold by R L. and Moses Pitt. 1677. THE Author's Design. I Question not but that several Relations of the Grand Seignor's Seraglio have been published; but I am to acknowledge withal, that I have not had the leisure to read any one of them. I have travelled Six several times, by Land, into the East, and by different Roads, during the space of Forty Years; and most Persons know, that my Employments were such, as would not allow me much time for the reading of Books. But when my Affairs afforded me any remission, I wholly employed those spare hours, in the collection of things the most worthy to be remarked, whether the Scene lay in Turkey; or in Persia, or in the Indies, on this, or the other side of the River Ganges, or in the Diamond-Mines, which are in the Territories of divers Princes. While I am busied in putting into order those Memoires, which I conceive myself obliged to gratify the Public withal, I make it a Present of this Relation of the Seraglio, attended with some Observations sufficiently remarkable, which, haply, will not be unpleasant. The Ottoman Court, which makes so much noise in the World, has not, to my thinking, been yet sufficiently well known, if I may judge of it, by what I have seen thereof myself, and have heard from several Persons. I do here communicate a faithful and ample description thereof: which I have extracted, as well out of what I had observed myself, in the several Voyages I made to Constantinople, as out of the informations I received from two intelligent Persons, who had spent many years in the Seraglio, in very considerable Employments. One of whom was a Sicilian, advanced to the Charge of Chasnadar-bachi, or chief Officer belonging to the Treasury; and after Five and Fifty Years Service in the Seraglio, was, for some slight miscarriage committed by him, banished to a place near Bursa, in Anatolia, from whence he made his escape into the Indies. The other, a Parisian-born, named De Vienne, had been one of the Pages of the Treasury. In his Return from the Jubilee at Rome, in the Year M. DC. L. being aboard a Brigantine bound from Civita Vecchia to Marseilles, he was taken by the Pirates of Tripoli, and the Bassa finding that young Lad well shaped, and looking like one that promised much, sent him, as a Present, to the Grand Seignor. He was also packed away out of the Seraglio, after Fifteen Years Service, only upon this score, that there was some discovery made, of his holding a secret correspondence with the disgraced Sicilian, who had heretofore shown him much kindness, and indeed it was by his credit that the Parisian was first advanced to the Chamber of the Treasury. From those two men, who were in a fair capacity to make exact Observations of things, have I extracted the better part of this Relation. Though they had been forced to embrace the erroneous persuasion of Mahomet, yet were there some Relics of the good sentiments of Christianity: And whereas there was not the least hope of recovering the honours, wherein they pride themselves who are exalted to Charges in the Seraglio, it is not to be imagined, that they could have any design to disguise things to me. They themselves thought it a certain pleasure to descend to a greater familiarity of Discourse, and to specify even the least circumstances: but I am to discover withal, that having had their education amongst the Turks, and learned of them, to love Money, it must have been so much the greater charge to me, to give them content. I have kept them for a considerable space of time, at my own charge, and that in several places, one at Ispahan in Persia, and the other in the Indies, where they had made their residences, and the Memoires which they supplied me withal were perfectly concordant. To the Instructions, which I made a shift to get from those two men, and to what discoveries I may have made myself, of the present state of the Grand Seignor's Palace, I shall add some necessary Observations of the Manners and Customs of several Provinces of the Ottoman Empire, slightly passing over those things, which, in all probability, are generally known. But that the Reader may with greater ease comprehend the matters I treat of, and that the Discourse may not be interrupted, by the necessary explication of the several names of Charges and Dignities, I have thought it fit, in the first place, to give a short List of them, after which shall follow another, of the different Species of Money, which are current all over the Turkish Empire. A TABLE OF The Chapters contained in this RELATION. Of the Charges and Dignities as well of the Seraglio, as of the Ottoman Empire; AND Of the different Species of Gold and Silver, now current in TURKEY. Chap. I. Of the Extent, and outside of the Seraglio. II. Of the first Court of the Seraglio, and particularly of the Infirmary. III. Of the second Court, in which are the lesser Stables; the Kitchens, and the Divan. iv Of the Divan-Hall, and the exact administration of Justice there by the Grand Seignor. V Of the inner part of the Seraglio in general, and particularly of the Quarter of the Eunuches and the Ichoglans. VI Of the Hall, where the Grand Seignor gives Audience to Ambassadors, and how they are received. VII. Of the Baths of the Seraglio. VIII. Of the Grand Seignor's Treasure. IX. Of the secret Treasure. X. Of the means used by the Grand Seignor, to augment his Treasury, besides the ordinary Revenues of the Empire. XI. A subtle way which the Grand Seignor has to bestow great Liberalities without meddling with his Revenues. Chap. XII. Of the Present which the Grand Seignor sends every Year to Mecha. XIII. Of the Cellar, and divers other Apartments. XIV. Of the Quarter of the Dogangibachi, or Grand Falconer, and some other Officers. XV. Of the Grand Seignor's own Apartment. XVI. Of the Grand Seignor's ordinary Occupations. XVII. Of the women's Quarter. XVIII. The Entrance into Constantinople of the Sultaness, (Mother to the Grand Seignor) who has the honorary Title of La Validè, on the second of July, 1668. XIX. Of the Gardens of the Seraglio. XX. Of the Princes, who follow the Mahometan Religion in Europe, Asia, and Africa. A NEW AND EXACT RELATION OF THE Grand Seignor's SERAGLIO. OF The Charges and Dignities as well of the Seraglio, as of the OTTOMAN EMPIRE. As also, Of the different Species of GOLD and SILVER-COINS, now current in TURKEY. The Principal Heads of the following Discourse. THe Origine of the Grandees of the Port. The severe Discipline of the Seraglio. The Authority of the four Principal Bassa's, of dangerous consequence to the Grand Seignor, and how he can take it off. Observations upon Standarts. Of the Plume of Herons Feathers which the Grand Seignor wears in his Turban. The Honours and Disadvantages attending the Charge of the Grand Visir. The particular Privilege of the Caimacan. The number of the real Janissaries. The transcendent privilege of their Aga, or Colonel-General. The happy condition of the Spahis, and the Zaims. The prodigious number of Eunuches all over the Eastern parts. Exquisite Observations upon that Subject. The principal Charges of the Seraglio. The noble advantages of the Capi-Aga. The Repute and Riches of the Kislar-Agasi, Intendant, or Overseer, of the Apartment of the Women. That the Charge of Bostangi-Bachi is one of the most eminent of those belonging to the Port. The great Oeconomy of the Partisans. The Policy of the Port, to keep the Cham of the lesser Tartary in subjection. The Principal Dignities of Persons relating to the Law. The Species of Gold and Silver-Coins current in Turkey. Whence, and how, the Gold coined at Cairo is brought thither. The sincerity of the Abyssins'. The Story of the Commerce carried on in the disposal of the five Sols Pieces, French Mony. The jealousies of the Persons concerned in that Trade. Amischievous Fraud mildly punished. The ancient sincerity of the Turks corrupted by the Commerce of the Europaeans. THey who are advanced to Charges, whether it be in the Seraglio, or in the Empire (excepting only the Eunuches, of whom I shall give an account anon) are The Origine of the Grandees of the Port. generally raised out of the Children taken in War, or sent by way of Presents, by the Bassa's, or out of the Tributary Children, who, about nine or ten years of Age, are taken out of their Mother's arms, through all the Provinces subdued by the Ottoman Princes. They are all to be of Christian Parents; and counting only the Slaves taken from the Enemy, we find by the Registers of the Custom-house of Constantinople alone, that, of both Sexes, there are brought thither every year, near twenty thousand. The Inhabitants of the lesser Tartary, who make continual Incursions into all the Countries, that are in hostility against the Ottoman Empire, send up vast numbers of them, and the Grand Seignor having the choice of all those young Children, the best shaped, and such as have the most promising looks, are distributed into several Seraglios, to be there instructed in the Law of Mahomet, and all sorts of Exercises. And afterwards, out of the choice or cullings of these last is the Seraglio of Constantinople replenished; and they are to be distinguished into two Orders. The first and the most eminent is that of the Ichoglans, designed for the great Charges and Dignities of the Empire: The second, that of the Azamoglans, employed in such Offices as require only strength of body. The Ichoglans, are those, in whom, besides the accomplishments of the Body, they discover also a noble Genius, fit for a high Education, and such as may render them capable of serving their Prince, some time or other. These are accordingly instructed with great care, and educated with the observance of a most severe Discipline. They pass through four several Chambers, called Odas, The severe Discipline of the Seraglio. which are as it were four Forms, where they learn, in order, whatever is convenient for young persons, who are to be continually about a great Prince, and are as it were his Pages, or Gentlemen. If they commit the least fault, they are severely chastised, and there is a great stock of patience requisite, for any one to be advanced to the fourth Oda, which when they have attained, they begin to take a little breath. But the hopes of being exalted to the greatest Honours, and the most eminent Dignities, makes them endure the barbarous treatments of the Eunuches, who are appointed to be their Masters, and are very liberal of the Bastinado to them. I shall give an account elsewhere of the manner of their Education, and of those four Odas, or Chambers, where they learn those things, whereby they are qualified for the Charges, for which the Grand Seignor designs them. Though it be appointed by the received Custom of the Empire, that those Children should be all descended from Christian Parents, of the best extraction, and the best shaped that can be found; yet the Capi-Aga, or Grand Master of the Seraglio, the Principal of the white Eunuches, who hath the chief Command over the Ichoglans, sticks not to admit into their number some natural Turks, such as may be recommendable, upon the score of their good qualities and endowments: But that happens very seldom, and that not without the particular permission of the Prince, who would rather have all those Children to be Renegado-Christians. And this is the Origine of the Great Persons belonging to the Grand Seignor, and the Port. They are all Slaves, and not having any knowledge of their Parents, or Relations, they wholly apply their affections to the Service of their Prince, who has been pleased to advance them to such high Fortunes. The Bassa's therefore are taken out of the Order of the Ichoglans, and the name of The Authority of the four Principal Bassa's, of dangerous consequence to the Grand Seignor, and how he can take it off. Bassa, or Bassa, is only a Title of Honour and Dignity; common to all the Grandees of the Port, who are distinguishable, according to the difference of their Charges. The four Principal are these. The Vizir-Azem, or Grand Vizir, the Caimacan, the Bassa of the Sea, and the Aga of the Janissaries. The Authority of these four Bassa's is so great, that sometimes they deprive their Sovereign of the Crown, and bestow it on whom they please; as it has happened, in our Age, to two Emperors immediately succeeding one the other, Mustapha, and Osman, of whom the later died in Prison, by the infamous hand of a common Executioner. But, on the other side, if these Bassa's know not how to take their measures rightly, they lose their heads upon the least miscarriage, the Grand Seignor seizing to himself all their Estates at their death, and taking their Children into the Seraglio. Nay, these last are so far from succeeding their Fathers, either as to wealth or employments, even though it were the Son of a Grand Vizir, or of a Sister of the Emperor himself, that the highest advancement they are admitted to, is to be made Captains of Galleys; the policy of the Turks not permitting, that in any one House there should be a transference of power from Father to Son, that so they may be prevented from taking any occasions to disturb the State. It may be seen by this account of them, that the fortune of the Bassa's, which, for a time, seems so splendid, is but a tottering fortune, upon which, neither the Son, nor the Father himself, what repute soever he may be in, can make any sure reliance. The Bassa's, who have the denomination of Viziers, carry three Banners or Standards, Observations upon the Standards. at the top of which there is a Horse-tail fastened, put into what colour they please themselves, green only excepted, though they are permitted to paint the Staff, to which the Standard is fastened, with that colour. The Origine of this Custom was thus, according to the Story which the Turks relate of it. Having one day given Battle to the Christians, their Standard was taken in the heat of the Engagement, and the General of the Turks, perceiving that the loss of the Standard was a discouragement to the Soldiers, who were beginning to take their flight, he with a Scimitar cut off a Horse's tail, and fastened it to the top of a half-Pike, and advanced it on high, crying out, Here is the Grand Standard, let him who loves me follow me. Immediately the Turks reassumed courage, and, having rallied, renewed the Charge, and gained the Victory. The Officers, who are about the Persons of the Bassa's, have also their Standards, but they are not allowed to add thereto one of those tails; and it is to be observed, that the Bassa's, who are not Viziers, can carry but two of them; as the Beys, who are inferior to the Bassa's, and Governors of lesser Provinces, carry but one of them. When the Grand Seignor goes into the Country, there are seven Standards carried, in regard that, according to the Turks, the World is divided into seven parts, or seven Climates, whereof the Grand Seignor is Master, if taken according to its breadth, and 'tis for that reason, that, in their language, they give him the title of Master of all Kings. This is grounded upon what Mabomet said, That he, who, after his death, should be Master of those Territories, where his Sepulchre were found, should assume the title of Master or chief of all the Kings upon Earth. They add, that there are but three Empires, which are, those of Constantinople, Babylon and Trebizond: And 'tis for that reason, that the Grand Seignor wears three plumes of black Heron-tops, in his Turban. Take notice by the way, that they are only the Herons of Candia which have their tops perfectly black, the Herons of all other Countries having them, either white, or of a mixed colour. And because there must be a considerable quantity of them to make up a plume, it must accordingly be of a very great value, which possibly has occasioned its being out of use in Europe: For as to all the Princes of Asia, they have still a great esteem for the Heron-tops; but they must not have the least defect, and if the points of them be ever so little broken, there is no account made of them, as being things of very little value. By those three Heron-tops upon the Grand Seignor's Turban, it is known that the Grand Vizir is in the Army; inasmuch as at that time, he wears but two of them, and the thing is worthy our observation. When the Army is to march, the Grand Seignor gives order for the drawing up of those Troops, which are at Constantinople, and the parts adjacent, and having the Grand Vizir near him, he presents him to them for their General. The Soldiers, at that time, say not a word, nor do they make the ordinary salute, till after the Grand Seignor has caused one plume of the Heron-tops to be taken out of his Turban, and to be put upon that of the Grand Vizir; and upon that Ceremony, the whole Army salutes him, and acknowledge him for their General, and from that very time are to receive their Pay from him. Having spoken of the Bassa's in general, it is requisite I should give some Idea of those, who are advanced to the principal Charges of the Empire; and I shall bring into that List, the Grand Vizir, accompanied by six others, who have the quality of Viziers, the Caimacan, the Bassa of the Sea, and the Aga of the Janissaries; after whom I shall come down to the Beglierbeys, and to the Sangiacbeys, and to the Bostangi-Bachi, who has one of the most eminent Charges of the Port. The Vizir-Azem, or Grand Vizir, is the Lieutenant-General of the Empire, and of The Honours and Disadvantages attending the Charge of Grand Vizir. the Armies, the principal Person of the Council, and he who, under the Grand Seignor's Orders, has the absolute disposal of all Affairs, relating to the State, or to the War, having in his custody the Imperial Seal. He is attended by, and has assistant to him, in the Divan, six other Viziers, whom they call Viziers of the Bench, and who are properly Counsellors of State, but yet such as have not any deliberative voice, and come not into the Divan, but only to be consulted upon some point of Law, wherein they are well skilled, without intermeddling with the Government of the State; or concerning themselves in any Affair, unless their advice be required. There are also five Beglerbeys, on whom the Grand Seignor bestows the qualification of Viziers, and are possessed of the greatest and wealthiest Governments of the Empire, to wit, the Bassa's of Babylon, Cairo, Buda, Anatolia and Romania. The three former, who are the three principal, had heretofore the privilege (exclusively to all the other Bassa's) of having carried before them (in the same manner as the Grand Vizir had) the three Horsetails, of which I have related the Story. But at the present, that privilege extends to the two other Bassa's of Anatolia and Romania, and they are all five equal, as to that point. I am now to return to the Grand Vizir, who has a magnificent Court, answerable to the greatness of the Master, whom he serves, and there are in his house above two thousand Domestics. Though he lies exposed, as well as the other Bassa's, to the indignation of the Prince, and forced to send him his Head, when he requires it; yet does the Grand Seignor, in the Affairs of greatest importance, and such as concern the State, comply much with the Sentiments of his Grand Vizir, and his Propositions in Council are as so many definitive Sentences. 'Tis that which renders his Power so absolute, that in all the Empires and Kingdoms of the World, there is not any chief Minister of State, whose Authority can be paralleled to that of the Grand Vizir. Whoever comes to make him a Visit, he rises not out of his Chair, either to give him a reception, or to conduct him out again, unless it be the Mufti, who is the principal Person relating to the Law (of Mahomet) upon whose access, the Grand Seignor himself rises from his Throne. But this is particularly worth our observation, That as it belongs only to the Grand Vizir, to propose all Affairs of importance, so does it concern him to be very careful, not to advance any thing that may be displeasing to the Grand Seignor; for if it should so happen, he gives immediate Order for the strangling of him, without making him any answer at all, upon this Maxim of the Ottoman Court, that there must not be any thing proposed to the Prince, which may give him any cause of dissatisfaction. The Caimacan is the Captain, and Governor of the City of Constantinople, Lieutenant A Privilege particular to the Caimacan. to the Grand Vizir, yet so as not to have any Authority, but only in his absence. And then he performs all the functions of that important Charge; he has the absolute Command, and gives Audience to Ambassadors. He is not subject, as the other Bassa's are, to that rigorous necessity of resigning his Head; upon this account, that if he does any thing, which may be displeasing to the Grand Seignor, he lays the blame thereof upon the Grand Vizir, from whom he receives his Orders. The Bassa of the Sea is the Admiral, and Captain-General of the Naval Forces. The Beys, Governors of the Maritime Provinces, and such as are obliged to maintain the Grand Seignor's Galleys in good order, are to obey the Commands they receive from him, and to go to Sea upon the first advertisement they receive to that purpose. The Janizary-Aga, whom the Turks call Yengeri-Agasi, is the Colonel-General of The number of the real Janizarles. the Janissaries. This Charge is very considerable, inasmuch as the Turkish Infantry, at this time, does for the most part pass under the name of Janissaries, though such as are really Janissaries, who derive their Institution from Ottoman the First, and their great Privileges from Amurath the Third, do not at this day amount to a Body of above five and twenty thousand Men. They have excellent Regulations amongst themselves, and are distributed into several Chambers, in the spacious Lodgings, whereof they are possessed, whether it be at Constantinople, or in other places. The order observed there is so excellent in all things, and so exactly maintained, that they live more like Religious Persons, than Soldiers; and though they are not forbidden to marry, yet it is very seldom that they do it. The great Privileges which they enjoy all over the Empire, wherein they are so highly respected, induce abundance of Persons, merely in order to their exemption from the paying of Taxes, and their being discharged from public Duties, to prevail with the Officers, by Money, to protect them, and make them pass for Janissaries. But they receive no Pay from the Prince, and all their advantage is restrained to the enjoyment of those Privileges, which indeed are great enough. It is by this intermixture of the real Janissaries, with those who are admitted by corruption, that the number of them amounts at this day to above a hundred thousand; and yet not accounting any but such as are effectively Janissaries, their Body has sometimes been so dreadful, as that they have unthroned the Ottoman Monarches, and changed the whole face of the Empire, of a sudden. The Power of their Aga is very great, and there is not any Person can approach the The great Privilege of the Aga. Prince, as he is permitted to do. For he may come into the Grand Seignor's presence, with his arms at absolute liberty, and with a confident deportment, whereas all the other Grandees of the Port, without any exception, even to the Grand Vizir himself, dare not appear before him, otherwise than with their arms cross their bodies, and the hands, one upon the other, on the breast, as the mark of a profound submission. The Beglerbeys are, in dignity, next the four first Bassa's, and are as 'twere so many Sovereigns, in the general Governments of the Empire, whereof the Grand Seignor bestows the Command on them. But in regard it is not my design to speak of the Government of Turkey, any further than is requisite for the Subject whereof I treat, there is not any necessity, that I should inform the Reader of the number of those Beglerbeys, and it is enough, that I have named the five principal ones, of whom I shall have occasion to speak elsewhere. I shall only add here, That those great Bassa's have, under them, a certain number of Sangiacbeys, who are Governors of Sangiacs, or particular Provinces, as the Sangiacbey of Salonica, or of Morea. And whereas there will also be frequently mentioned some others, under the Denominations of Spahis, Zaims and Chiaoux, we must give a short account of those three sorts of Persons. The Spahis, who make up a Body of about fifteen thousand Men, are a kind of Knights, who would pass for the Gentry or Nobility of the Country, and stand very much upon their Gallantry. They are maintained out of the Revenue of the Timars, that is to say, out of the Manors, or Commanderies, which the Grand Seignor bestows on them, according to the recompense he would make them for their services. Those Timars cannot be taken away from them, unless they be negligent in their duty, which is, that they should be in the Army, when the Grand Vizir is there in person. These are the happiest Persons in all the Ottoman Empire, and as it were petty Sovereigns, in the places where they command. The Zaims differ not much from the Spahis, and, as the other, have the Command and Revenues of certain Lands, or Fiefs, which the Grand Seignor bestows on them. There is a very great number of them, over all the Empire, and they look on themselves, as the Lords and Barons of the Country. The Turkish Cavalry consists of the Zaims and the Spahis, and they know what number of Horse they are to bring into the Field, according to the Revenue of their Timars. The Chaoux, or Chiaoux-Bachi, is the Chief of all the Chaoux of the Empire, whose employment it is, to carry the Prince's Commands, to any part either within his Territories, or without, and to be sent upon Embassies, though indeed they are but as so many Messengers, or Expresses. 'Tis ordinarily into their custody that Prisoners of Quality are committed, and they suffer them not to be out of their sight. And thus you have an account of the principal Charges and Dignities of the Empire, all possessed by Persons, taken out of the rank of the Ichoglans. I now come to the Officers of the Seraglio, and in regard they are Eunuches, on whom the Grand Seignor bestows the most eminent Charges, and who, besides, have the Government of the Ichoglans, I shall follow the order of the things, in my placing of them here, before I say aught of the second order or rank of tributary Children, or such as are taken in War, who are the Azamoglans. Of the Eunuches there are also two ranks. There are some white, who have endured only a simple castration; and there are black ones, who have all cut off, even The prodigious number of Eunuches all over the East. with the belly. Both sorts of them are severe, humourous and morose, and their Treatments are almost insupportable to all those who are under their Charge. There is a prodigious number of them, as well in Constantinople, as all over the Empire, and generally all over the Eastern parts of the World, where there is hardly a private Person, having any thing of abilities, but keeps an Eunuch or two, as sentines over his Women. And 'tis this that causes so great a commerce of Eunuches in several parts of Observations upon this Subject. Asia and afric, and in the single Kingdom of Colconda, where I chanced to be in the year 1659., there were put off, of them, in that very year, about two and twenty thousand. It comes into my mind, that the Grand Mogor's Ambassador, in whose Country, that Barbarism is not suffered, but the Eunuches he makes use of are brought out of other places, took me one day aside, to tell me, that he cared not how soon he returned into his Country, out of the fear he was in, lest that Kingdom of Colconda might sink into the ground, after such cruelties. Most of the Fathers and Mothers, who are extremely poor, and have no love for their Children, and whom they are also afraid that they cannot maintain, have no other shift, upon the first dearth of Provisions, than to sell them to certain Merchants, who afterwards have them gelt, and sometimes make clear work, and cut off all. Some of those, who have not any thing left, when they would urine, are forced to make use of a little Cane or Pipe, and to put it to the bottom of the belly. And whereas few escape after so dangerous an operation, such are accordingly much dearer than the others, and they are sold in Persia and Turkey, at the rate of six hundred Crowns; when a hundred, or a hundred and fifty, is the price of the ordinary Eunuches. For the supply therefore of all Turkey, all Persia, all the Indies, and all the Provinces of Africa, it may be easily judged, that there must come millions of them from several places. The Kingdom of Colconda, in the Peninsula on this side Ganges, and the Kingdoms of Assan, Boutan, Arachan, and Pegu, on the other side of it, afford a prodigious number of them. All these Eunuches are either white, or of duskish colour. The black Eunuches, who are brought out of Africa, much inferior in point of number, are, as I said, much the dearer. The most deformed yield the greatest price, their extreme ugliness being looked on as beauty in their kind. A flat Nose, a frightful Aspect, a large Mouth, thick Lips, the Teeth black, and standing at a distance one from another (for ordinarily the Moor have fair Teeth) are so many advantages to the Merchants who sell them. The Seraglio at Constantinople is full of these two sorts of Eunuches. The black are designed for the custody of the Apartment, where the Women are, and sent to Court by the Bassa's of Grand-Caire. The white, who are somewhat less savage, and have been educated with some care, are for the Grand Seignor's own Apartment. The four principal Eunuches, who approach the Prince's Person, are the Hazodabachi, the Chasnadarbachi, the Kildrgibachi, and the Sarai-Agasi, who have for their Superior, The principal charges of the Seraglio. the Capi-Aga, who has the superintendency of all the Chambers of the Ichoglans. They ordinarily succeed one the other, that is to say, the Sarai-Agasi succeeds the Kilargibachi; the Kilargibachi succeeds the Chasnadarbachi; and the last named succeeds the Hazodabachi; and in fine, the Hazodabachi succeeds the Capi-Aga, who is always of the longest standing in service of the white Eunuches. The Capi-Aga, or Capou-Agasi, is as it were the Grand Master of the Seraglio, he is The noble Advantages of the Aga. the principal in dignity and repute, of all the white Eunuches, and he is always near the Grand Seignor's Person, wherever he is. He is the Person who introduces Ambassadors to Audience, and all great Affairs passing through his hands, ere they come into those of the Prince, his Charge renders him necessary to all others, and procures him many rich Presents. All those Persons also, who are to make any Present to the Grand Seignor, must address themselves to the Capi-Aga, in order to their being presented to his Highness, of which he makes great Advantages. No Man can enter into the Emperor's Apartment, nor get out of it, without his Order; and when the Grand Vizir would speak to him, 'tis the Capi-Aga's place, to take and present him to his Highness. Whether it be by night, or by day, if there happen some pressing Affair, whereof the Vizir would give the Grand Seignor immediate notice in writing, the Capi-Aga receives it from him, and brings him the answer thereto. He wears his Turban in the Seraglio, and rides up and down on Horseback, by a Privilege particularly annexed to his Charge. He accompanies the Grand Seignor even into the Apartment of the Sultanesses; but he stays at the door, as having no Command in that place. When he leaves the Seraglio, upon his being dismissed from his Charge, which very seldom happens, he cannot be a Bassa. As to his Table, all is at the Prince's Charge, and he has, over and above, ten Sultanines a day, which amount to sixty Livers, French Money. There have been some Capi-Aga's, who have died worth two millions, all which returned into the Grand Seignor's Coffers. The chief of the white Eunuches is attended by four others, who, next to him, have the principal Charges of the Grand Seignor's Quarter. The Hazodabachi, is, as it were, the Lord High-Chamberlain, having under his Charge the forty Pages of the Chamber, who ordinarily approach the Grand Seignor's Person. The Serai-Agasi has the general Superintendency of all the Chambers of the Grand Seignor's Quarter, as to what relates to Embellishment, and the necessary Reparations. He has a particular inspection over the Seferli Odasi, which is the Chamber of the Pages, who are to look after the Grand Seignor's Linen, and attend him in his Progresses. 'Tis incumbent also upon him to give Order for their clothes, and whatever else they stand in need of: And his Charge does somewhat resemble that of Captain of the Louver-Castle, in France, since it is his work, generally to make provision for whatever may contribute to the decency and well-ordering of that great Palace. He has for his Assistant, or Lieutenant, the Seraiket-Odasi, who is also an Eunuch, whose employment it is, to have the Tapestry and Carpets, which are spread upon the Floors, in the Halls and Lodgings of the Seraglio, changed every six months. The Haznadar, or Chaznadar-Bachi, is the chief Intendant of the Treasury, and has the inspection of the conduct and deportment of the Pages of that Chamber. Which is not to be understood of the Treasury, designed for the exigencies of the State, and the ordinary Pay of the Soldiery, and whereof the Grand Vizir, and the three Testenders, or Treasurers-General have the Keys, and Intendency. But the Treasury I here speak of, is the place, where they keep the Jewels of the Crown, and all the other Rarities, and the wealth gathered together, from Father to Son, by the Ottoman Princes; which I shall endeavour to lay down distinctly, before the Reader's prospect, in my Relation, when I come to open unto him both the Treasuries. However it is to be observed, that the Chaznadar-Bachi has only the honorary title of Chief of the Treasury, nay, that he cannot so much as enter into it, since that in the Reign of Sultan Amurat, the Pages of the Treasury having complained to the Grand Seignor of the ill conduct of that Eunuch, he, upon their Petition, ordered, that the Chaznadar-bachi should no longer have any Command there, and that the Chaznaket-odasi should for the future exercise his Charge, without depriving him of the title thereof. But in regard the Chaznadar-bachi is the better known, and the more pronounceable Name, I shall always make use of it, instead of the other; and we must not omit giving you this remark, That when the Chief, or Overseer, of the Treasury, is removed from his Charge, he is made a Bassa. Upon this counterchanging of these two Officers of the Seraglio, it is to be observed, That, amongst all the Mahometan Princes, Turks, Persians, Indians, and of what Sect soever they may be of, what has been ordered and established in the Reign of one Prince, is never revoked by his Successor: And under the same Sultan-Amurat; the Capou-Agasi having committed some little impertinence, whereat the Grand Seignor took offence, he excluded, thence forwards, all the Capou-Agasis, who should be removed out of the Seraglio, from the privilege of coming into a capacity to be made Bassa's. I shall not think it much to allege, upon this particular, another example of that Maxim, of which I was an eye-witness myself, in the King of Persia's Court. 'Twas in the Reign of Schach Abas, against whom some Grandees of the Court had entered into a Conspiracy, and attempted to take away the King's Life, yet with a design to have put his Son into the Throne. About Two or Three in the afternoon, when every one in Persia is retired to the Haram, which is the Apartment of the Women, the Conspirators sent, to the Palaces, twenty Men well armed, with Order, first, to put to the Sword all they should find at the Gates, which ordinarily are guarded only by two or three Men, armed with a massy Club, and afterwards to go and murder the King himself in the Haram, which would be but poorly defended by black and white Eunuches, who are poor Soldiers. But the intended blow of the Conspirators was prevented, and the chief Porter, a Person accounted one of the most valiant of his time, being in his Station, with two of his Servants, Georgians by Country, that is to say, valiant, as all those People are, fell upon the Traitors with his Cutlass, and beat them back so smartly, that they thought it the best way to run for't. The King having been informed of that action, ordered him to be brought into his Presence, and after he had commended him, made this establishment, That the Charge of chief Porter, should ever continue in his Family, from Father to Son. He also commanded the Keeper of the Archives, or Records, to insert that action into the History, and wished that his own Name might be dashed out of it, and all that had been done during his Reign, if any of his Successors attempted to change any thing of his Will, and deprive the House of the Faithful Georgian of that Charge. The Kilargi-bachi is the chief Governor of the Pages of the Kilar, which is the place, where they keep all the exquisite Drinks for the Grand Seignor's own drinking. It is a kind of Cupbearers Office, and the Kilargi-bachi, a kind of Cupbearer; and he is also made a Bassa, upon his removal from the Charge of Kilargi-bachi. He is moreover the Chief of all the Akegis, who are the Cooks and Confectioners, since no Body can have any entrance into those Offices, but by his Order; and he has under his custody all the Plate, which is for the peculiar service of the Grand Seignor. This Officer has for his Substitute the Kilarketodasi. Now having told you, that, upon the resignation of his Charge, he is made a Bassa, it were not amiss to advertise you further, That they who are removed out of the Seraglio, in order to their being Bassa's, ought to have been of the number of the forty Pages of the Chamber, and to have passed through one of these six Charges, of Chashaketodasi, and of Kilarketodasi, of whom I have spoken already, of Dogangibachi, of the Chokadar, of the Seligdar, and of the Rikabdar, of whom I shall discourse anon. Otherwise, they can only be Beys, or Zaims, or Sphais, or at most, but Capigibachis, by the Grand Seignor's singular favour. The case is the same with the Gugombachi, who is the second Person of the Office of the Treasury, as also with the Anakdar-Agasi, who is the third. If these People remove out of the Seraglio, before they are admitted into the number of the Forty Pages of the Chamber, they have only a certain Pay, more or less, the highest whereof amounts not to above two hundred Asper's. I proceed to the other Officers of the Seraglio, of whom there will be some mention made in my Relation. The Dogangibachi is the Grand Falconer, and his Charge makes him a considerable Person about the Prince. The Chokadar is he who carries the Royal Robe, called the Ciamberlue, the same Officer, which the French call Portemanteau. The Rikabdar is he who holds the Stirrup, when the Grand Seignor gets on Horseback. The Seligdar is the first of the Pages of the Chamber; he carries the Grand Seignor's Sword upon days of Ceremony, and they ordinarily advance to that Charge one of the handsomest Pages. The Hammangibachi is the chief Overseer of the Bath. When he leaves the Seraglio, as also when the Kamachirbachi, who is the chiefest of the Pages of Seferli, does so; their Pay is an hundred Asper's a day; and if they are in favour, it may amount to an hundred and fifty. It is to be observed in the general, that when any one of the Forty Pages of the Chamber is removed, the vacancy is supplied sometimes out of the Treasury, sometimes out of the Kilar, and sometimes out of the Seferti, and in that they take their turns. They always take out the most Ancient; and they who were next to them come into their places. How that is done, we shall take occasion to explicate more plainly in the Chapter of the Treasury. The Chiamcibachi is the grand Laundry-man, or the Principal of those, who wash and order the Grand Seignor's Linen. The Giritbey is the chief Director of those who are exercised in shooting with the Bow, and calling the Dart. These two Exercises are much practised every Friday, in a place of the Seraglio, appointed for that Divertisement. Thus have you, in few words, an account of whatever relates to the principal Charges of the Seraglio, possessed by those who have passed through the Chambers of the Ichoglans. The Black, or Negro-eunuches, of whom I have but a word more to say, additionally to what I have intimated before, are appointed to guard the Apartment of the Women, and they make choice, for that Office, of the most deformed and the most Aesopical, that can be found. They are all cut even with the belly, ever since the time of Solyman the Second, who being one day in the fields, and seeing a Gelding offering to leap a Mare, inferred thence, that the Eunuches, who kept his Wives, might likewise endeavour to satisfy their passions; for which he bethought himself of a present remedy, by ordering them to have all cut off; and his Successors have since observed that Rule. There is a great number of those Negro-eunuches, and they have their variety of Chambers, and their Regulations, as the white ones have. I say nothing here of their different Employments, and the Reader will find, in the Chapter, concerning the Apartment of the Women, all can be known, that's certain upon that Subject. The Kislar-Agasi, or, as others name him, the Kuezer-Agasi, which is as much, in The credit and wealth of the Kislar-Agasi, who keeps the Apartment of the Women. our Language, as to say, the Guardian of the Virgins, is the chiefest of all the Negro-eunuches, and is of equal authority and credit with the Capi-Aga, who is the Supreme of the white Eunuches. The former is the Overseer of the Apartment of the Women, has the Keys of the Doors in his custody, and has access to the Emperor when he pleases himself. The charge he is possessed of brings him in Presents from all parts; and there are not any such made to the Sultannesses, by the Bassa's, and other Persons, who stand in need of their favour, in reference to the Sultan, but there comes along with it one to himself, which makes him one of the richest and most considerable Officers, belonging to the Seraglio. I come now to the Azamoglans, who make the second Order of young Lads, wherewith the Seraglio is replenished, and out of whose number they take such as are designed for mean Officers, of whom I shall give you the List. The Azamoglans, as well as the Ichoglans, are, as I said before, Tributary Children, taken away from the Christians, or made Captives, by Sea, or Land. They make choice of the handsomest, the best shaped, and most robust, for the Seraglio, and they have neither wages nor allowances of any profit, unless they be advanced to some small Employments. Nor can they attain those, till after many years' Services, and what is then allowed them does not amount to above four Asper's and a half per diem. As for those who are brought up in other places, under the simple denomination of Azamoglans, and are not received into the Seraglio at Constantinople, their fortune can amount no higher, than to become Zanizaries. When these young Boys are brought up to Constantinople, the first distribution which is made of them is into the Seraglios, or Royal Houses of the Grand Seignor: there are some of them left in the City, to be put to Trades; and others are sent to Sea, to serve for Seamen, and so gain experience in Navigation, by which means they capacitate themselves for some Employments. But to confine our discourse to the Azamoglans received into the great Seraglio, they are employed in several Offices, and some of them are made Bostangis, some Capigis, some Atagis, some Halvagis, and some, Baltagis; which terms I shall explicate to the Reader in as few words as I can. The Bostangis are they who are employed in the Gardens of the Seraglio, out of whose number they take out those who are to row in the Grand Seignor's Brigantines, when he has a mind to divert himself in fishing, or take the air upon the Canal. They who thus serve in the Brigantines, and row on the right hand, may be advanced to the charge of Bostangi-Bachi, which is one of the most cousiderable places of the Seraglio: But they who row on the left hand, are capable only of the mean Employments, which are bestowed in the Gardens. If it happen that any one of them break his Oar, by strength of rowing, in the Grand Seignor's presence, his Highness immediately order him a gratuity of fifty Crowns; and there is also a certain distribution made of some Money to the others, as the Grand Seignor takes his diversion in the Brigantine. Their greatest Pay, after they have served some years, is seven Asper's and a half per diem, besides clothing and diet, which they all equally have. The Bostangi-Bachi has the general Intendency or Oversight of all the Grand Seignor's Bostangi-bachi one of the nob'est Charges of the Port. Gardens, as well those of Constantinople as those of the neighbouring Villages, and commands above ten thousand Bostangis, who are employed in the culture of them. Though he be taken out of the meanest rank of the Azamoglans, yet his power is very great, and his Employment one of the noblest and most considerable about the Court. That gives him access to the Prince's Person, to whom he may speak familiarly, when he carries him by Sea; for he has his Seat at the Helm of the Brigantine, wherein the Grand Seignor is, who most commonly makes use of him, to carry his Orders to some Bassa, when he would have his Head. All the Grandees of the Port stand in awe of him, and endeavour to gain his affection by their Presents, because it lies in his power, to do them either good or bad Offices about the Prince, whom he can dispose, as he pleases, when he has him abroad upon the Water. For being as 'twere at his elbow, and having the whip of the Rudder in his hand, with the privilege of sitting in his presence, that he may the more easily govern it, he has then the opportunity to entertain him with affairs of State, and the conduct of the Bassa's, and answerably to his passion, or interest, clearly to acquaint him how things pass, or turn and disguise them as he pleases. In fine, if he be highly in favour, he may obtain one of the great Governments, and become Bassa of Buda, Babylon, or Cairo, nay haply Grand Vizir, which is the most eminent Charge of the Empire. The Capigis are the Porters or Keepers of the Gates of the Seraglio, that is to say, of the first and second Courts; for the third Gate, which gives entrance into the inner Seraglio, is kept by Eunuches. The Chief of the Capigis is called Capigi-bachi, who has under him other Officers, bearing the same Name; and whom the Grand Seignor makes use of, to carry his Orders. The Capi-Aga is above all. The Attagis are the Cooks of the Seraglio, over whom as well as over the Halvagisses, the Kilargi-bachi has full Power. Every Kitchen has its Attagi-bachi, that is to say, its chief Director, or Master-Cook. And the Moutbak-Emin is the Intendant or Overseer, who supplies the Kitchens with all that is necessary, taking care also for the Tables of the Ambassadors, according to the Orders he has received from the Grand Vizir. The Halvagisses are the Confectioners, of whom I shall have occasion to speak more at large elsewhere. They give also the same Name to those who serve the Grandees of the Seraglio, and are permitted to go out of it and into it, when they please. The Baltagis are a robust sort of People, employed in the carrying of Burdens, as Porters, and Cleavers of Wood are amongst us. Baltagi implies properly a Labouring Man, who makes use of the Wedge. The Hasteler-Agasi is the Overseer of the Infirmary, who observes what comes in, and what goes out, and especially that there be no Wine brought in. I shall have occasion also, in my Relation, to speak of two others, to wit, the Emirahour-bachi, and the Ekmeggi-bachi, who are two Officers belonging to the Sultan, but have their Habitations out of the Seraglio. The Emirahour-bachi is the great Gentleman-Usher, who goes before the Grand Seignor, when he appears in public, and in all Ceremonies. The Ekmeggi-bachi is the Master-Baker, who has the oversight, and gives direction for the Baking, of all the Bread that is eaten in the Seraglio. These two Employments are not bestowed on any of those who have their abode within the Seraglio, but to Persons who live out of it, but have the liberty of ingress into it, egress out of it, at any time. To be short, I shall have occasion to speak of the Caragi-bachi, and of the Cham of the lesser Tartary, and I have some curious Observations to make upon both of them. The Caragi-bachi is the Chief of those, who collect the Tributes, and it is of him, The Oeconomy of the Partisans, or Collectors of public Moneys. as also of the Gemmerou-bachi, or grand Farmer of the Customs, and of the Bazarcan-bachi, or Chief amongst the Merchants, that the Grand Seignor makes use of, to make Advancements, when he wants Money, and that there is not any in the Public Treasury, he being unwilling that they should meddle with the Secret Treasury. They must of necessity find it out, and it is no hard matter for them to do, in regard that of all the Tributes, Customs, and other Impositions due to the Grand Seignor, there is not any thing paid till the end of the Year, and these Officers oblige Men to the payment thereof, at the beginning of it. All sorts of Persons, what Religion soever they are of, except the Mahometan, are obliged to pay the Tribute without any exception, from the time of their settling in the Empire, and having attained the sixteenth year of their Age. And this Tribute, or Poll-Money, amounts to five hundred and fifty old Asper's, which neither rise nor fall, but always keep at the same rate of eighty, to a Piastro, which, in the French Money, and consequently with little difference in ours, amounts to five Crowns and 5/●. All other Christians who come into the Empire, upon the score of Trade, or Business, though 'twere but for one day, are forced to pay, at the first City where they arrive. The foreign Greeks, such as they from Muscovy or other places, pay three hundred and fifty Asper's; but the Armenians, who come from Persia, Georgia, Mingrelia, and other Countries, are taxed but at three hundred. As to the Christians, whom they call Franguis, they pay nothing; and that has given much trouble to the Ambassadors of Europe, especially to the French Ambassador, there being more French that are Inhabitants in Turkey, than there are of any other Nation. And yet though the Turks make their Year to consist but of twelve Moons, ours being near twelve and a half, they make the Tributaries pay but for twelve Moons; yet in requital, and that nothing may be lost, they make them pay that Tribute double, every three and thirtieth year, and are very frugal Husbands for the benefit and advantage of their Master. There are but two Princes in the World that are known by the Name of Cham, to The policy of the Port, to keep the Cham of the lesser Tartary quiet. wit, the Emperor of great Tartary, and the King of the little Tartary, a Vassal to the Ottoman Monarches. I conceive myself obliged, to give the Reader some information of the present condition of the latter. When the Cham of the lesser Tartary enters upon the Government, he comes to take his Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Seignor, and the Turks look upon him not otherwise than as a Governor of a Province, or at most, but as a Vassal-Prince. But those of his own Country, the Muscovites, the Poles, the Georgians, the Mingrelians, and the other Nations bordering upon him, treat him as a King, when they writ to him. The Grand Seignor uses much Policy towards the Cham, lest he should revolt from him, and render himself more powerful than he is, by Alliances with the neighbouring Princes. For it is to be observed, That the lesser Tartary, whereof the City Cassa, near the Cimmerian Streight, is the Metropolis, is not a Country subdued by the Arms of the Ottomans. The ancient Kings of it did only put themselves under the Grand Seigner's protection, who received them into it, upon condition, that when the Father died, his Son, or the next of kin, his Successor, was not to enter upon the Government, till he had received the Investiture from the Port, and taken the Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Seignor, obliging himself to come to him, upon the first Orders to that purpose. The Grand Seignor promised in requital, that he would not establish any other than what were of their race, to command in the lesser Tartary. And whereas there are two branches of that Family, he keeps one of them always banished, in the Island of Rhodes, while the other governs. But if, after fifteen or twenty years, there should be any suspicion of this latter Family's having a design, to render itself absolute, he sends for the Cham and his Children, when he has any, and sending them to Rhodes, brings thence him who was there in exile, and orders him to reign in his turn, for some years. The form of his Oath you will find in the sixth Chapter of my Relation, where I speak of the Hall of Audience, and the manner, in which that Prince is there received. I have only now somewhat to say of the Moufti, the Cadilesquer, and the Cadis The principal Dignities of those who study the Law. and the others relating to the Law, which I shall do in few words. Only let it be here observed in the general. That, according to the persuasion of the Turks, the Civil Laws are part of their Religion, and that having been given them by their Prophet, they are derived from God, and require an implicit obedience. 'Tis by this course, that they are kept within their duty, and that they obey the Laws, as much out of a principle of Religion and Conscience, as out of the fear of chastisement; and in that they do not much recede from our Christian Maxims. The Muftiss and the Cadis pass therefore indifferently under the Name of Persons well skilled in the Law, as if we should reduce our Divines and our Civil Lawyers into the same Class, and in civil and criminal Causes the Moufti is often consulted. The Moufti is the honorary Chief of the Law all over the Empire, and accounted to be the Interpreter of the Koran. I speak of the grand Moufti of Constantinople, who is the most esteemed, and the principal of all. For there are several others of them in Turkey, over whom he has no more jurisdiction, than he has over the Imans, or Priests; every one of them submitting themselves only to the Magistrate, and there being no Ecclesiastical Superiority amongst them. That hinders not but that the Grand Moufti is honoured by all the rest, and in great veneration among the Turks. The Grand Seignor never bestows that Dignity, but upon a Person of great abilities, and great integrity; he often consults him in the Affairs of greatest importance; he always follows his Directions, and he is the only Person in the World, at whose approach he rises up to receive him. The Cadilesquers follow the Moufti, and are Judges-Advocates of the Militia, the Soldiers having this Privilege, That they are judged only by them; whence they also call them, Judges of the Armies. There are but two of them all over the Empire, the Cadilesquer of Romania, and the Cadilesquer of Anatolia, who are in highest esteem next to the Moufti, and have their Seats in the Divan, immediately next to the Grand Vizir. The Mollah, or Moula-Cadis, are the Judges of great Cities, who receive their Commissions from the Cadilesquers, to whom there may be an Appeal made from their Sentence, in civil Concerns only; for as to the criminal part, the Cause is soon decided, and the least Judge condemns to death without any Appeal. The Cadis are under the Mollah, and aught to be well versed in the Laws and Customs of the Country. They have also under them the Naips, who administer Justice in the Villages, and that is done with much expedition, without the help of Proctors, or Advocates. The Imans, or Emaums, are the Priests of the Turks, and as 'twere the Parson's of their Mosqueys, where they take care that all things be done in order, and at the times appointed. The Hogias are the Doctors of the Law, and as it were the Regent's, and Instructors of Youth. The Sheiks are to them, instead of Preachers, and they make public Exhortations. The Muezims are they, who cry upon the Towers of the Mosquey, to call the People together at the hour of Prayer; the Turks not using any Bells, not the Christians, in the Levant. The Dervis are Religious Men, among the Turks, who live poorly, and indeed the very word signifies poor. They are for the most part ridiculously clothed, and all, generally, great Hypocrites. OF THE DIFFERENT SPECIES OF Gold and Silver-Coins, And the small MONEY Now current in TURKEY. Together With the History of the TRADE in Five Sols Pieces (French MONEY) and the Abolition of it. THere are but two Species of Gold-Coins current all over the Turkish What Money current in Turkey. Empire; the one is the proper Country Money, the other comes out of Foreign parts. The former is the Scherif, otherwise called Sequin, or Sultanine; and that kind of Gold is worth at the present six Franks, French Money, though heretofore it yielded but five Franks, nay came so low as four. The Scheriffs come from Egypt, and Cairo isthe only City of the Empire, where The Gold brought to Cairo and coined there. Gold is coined. That Gold is brought out of the Kingdom of the Abyssines, and this is the manner how it is brought to Cairo. The quantity is not the same every year, and when the passages are shut up, whether by War, or by extraordinary Rains, whereby the Fields are overflown,, there comes but little Gold into Egypt, during that time. As soon as those obstructions are taken away, and that there is a freedom of Commerce, you shall see arriving at Cairo, nay at Alexandria too, several Abyssines, who bring in, one man, two pounds, another four, every one more or less, according to his abilities. Those poor People run a thousand risks in their Travels, and 'tis almost a miracle, how they bring them to a period. Some of them are of that Country, whence the Queen of Sheba came, and which is now called the Kingdom of Sabour. Others come from places at a greater distance, and they have sometimes fifteen days journeys to make, and cannot meet with any waters to drink, but what are corrupt, and destructive to health: which I found but too true myself, when I crossed the Deserts of Arabia. If by chance they come to some Cottage or Hut, where they have killed an Elephant, it is a place for them to feast in. This considered, we need not wonder at the short lives of those miserable people, whose bodies are destroyed in those Voyages, and who for the most part do not exceed forty years of age. The case is the same with those, who trade with the Portugueses, on the Coasts of Melinda and Mozambico, the corrupt waters they are forced to drink in their way make them hydropical at five and twenty years at age, and generally, all the several peoples of the Kingdom of Sabour, have the right Leg swelled, and twice as big as the left, and seldom exceed five and thirty years. 'Tis a miraculous thing to see the fidelity wherewith those poor Abyssines demean The sincerity of the Abyssines. themselves in trading, as well those of the Southern parts, who are Christians, as those of the North, who border upon Egypt, and are Mahumetans. For after they have taken the Commodities they like for the Gold they have brought, if the Merchant they deal with will supply them with any thing further, to be paid at their return, and upon their own words, he is sure enough of it, and need not break his sleep for it. For if it happen that one of those Abyssines, who is a Debtor, should die by the way, some of his Relations, or Friends, whom he acquaints with his affairs, brings the Gold at the next return, for the Commodity which had been taken up; and it could never hitherto be found, that any Merchant could complain, that ever he had lost aught by any one of them. All that is to be feared, is, that they should fall into the hands of their Enemies, who rob, and kill them, and particularly on the Southside, there being less danger, towards the North. The foreign Coins of Gold in Turkey are the Ducats of Germany, Holland, Hungary, and Venice. They are very much sought after, and they are changed, at six Livers and a half, and sometimes at six Livers and fifteen Sols; and that is done in order to the sending of them to the Indies, where they drive a great Trade with them, as I shall make it appear, in my Relations of the Levant. Sometime since, there has been some abatement made in the Ducats of Venice, upon a discovery of their not being of so good an alloy, as those of Germany. There will be often mention made of Purses, in that Relation of the Seraglio. A Purse implies as much as the sum of five hundred Crowns, and it is of those Purses that the Grand Seignor makes his ordinary Presents. But a Purse of Gold, wherewith he regales his Sultanesses, and his peculiar Favourites, amounts to fifteen thousand Sequins, or thirty thousand Crowns. A Kizé is also a bag of fifteen thousand Ducats. In all the Ottoman Empire, there is not any Money of Copper to be seen, and the Species current there must be either of Silver or Gold. True it is, that there are some pieces of Silver taken there, of a very base alloy, especially the Roup, which are quarter-Ryals, coined in Poland; and with the assistance of the Jews, the Bassa's, in their several Governments, sergeant certain foreign Coins, which are all much different from those which they are intended to imitate. The case is the same as to Silver-Coins in Turkey, as it is with those of Gold. There are some coined in the Country, as the Asper, and the Parasi, which are the least of all. And there are some foreign Moneys, as the Spanish Ryal, and the Rixdollars of Germany and Holland. An Asper is the least of all the Moneys, which heretofore was worth eight Deniers, French Money, that is about ⅔ of the English Penny, as being of good Silver, and the value set upon them was after the rate of 80, for the Crown-piece. But in the more remote Provinces, the Bassa's, and the Jews cause such an abundance of counterfeit ones to be made, that at present, a Crown-piece will yield one hundred and twenty Asper's. A Parasi is another kind of small Money, which is worth four Asper's, and coined at Cairo. Groche is the Crown, or Spanish Ryal, otherwise called the Piece of eight. Kara-Groche is the Rixdollar of Germany. Aselani is the Rixdollar, marked with the Lion of Holland. After which follow the Pieces of four Rials, of two Rials, and of one Ryal; and heretofore the Pieces of five Sols, French Money, wherewith there was a great Trade driven in Turkey. 'Tis a thing not well known to all, and therefore the History thereof will haply not be unpleasant to the Reader. A certain Merchant of Marseilles, without any forethought design, sent as many Pieces of five Sols, newly come out of the Mint, as amounted to the sum of two, or The Trade driven in the five Sols-pieces. three hundred Crowns, amongst some other Pieces of Silver-Coins, to buy Silks. The Turks found those little Pieces so pretty and so beautiful, and were at the first so taken therewith, that they thought them to be the eighth parts of a Ryal, and were content to allow a Crown, for every eight of them. The Factor, perceiving it, writ to Marseilles, whence he received a very great sum in that Money, and gained very much thereby. If the French could have contented themselves with that honest profit, the commerce of those Pieces, which was quashed by the excessive frauds committed in the management of it, might have continued still, and would have been very advantageous to them. The Turks were unwilling to trade in any other kind of Money, and in the payment of the Armies, to give the Soldier's content, there was a necessity of dispersing them among them. One day, returning out of Persia into Turkey, I was persecuted by several Women, who would needs have me give them some Temins, (so they call that kind of Money) and I could not have any thing to eat, for any other Money. Our French Merchants were gainers at the first, after the rate of fifty, per cent. allowing in Turkey but eight of those Pieces for a Crown, whereas they had twelve of them in France for the same Piece. But the other European Nations, the English, the Dutch, and the Italians, envying their happiness, came to give a check to their design, and making their complaints to the Grand Vizir, that Minister ordered, That, for the future, they should allow twelve of those Pieces for the Crown, or that they should not be current any longer, and that whatever sums thereof were found in the Ships, should be confiscated. The French were not at all satisfied with that; and whereas there was a necessity of submitting to the Grand Vizirs' Decree, they bethought themselves of having some of those Pieces coined, which should not have above four Sols of good Silver, which was a considerable advantage, of twenty five upon the hundred. They passed well enough for some time, before the Turks had discovered the fraud; they being satisfied, that the Stamp was fair, and that the Pieces looked very white: And the Women and Maidens, of the meaner sort of People, made them contribute to the ornament of their Heat-tires, about which they fastened those pretty little Pieces, and they came down flapping about their Foreheads, as the wealthier sort fastened Pieces of Gold to theirs. But the better to compass their design, the French Merchants were obliged to find out other Countries, where it might be lawful for them to traffic in those Pieces. Their first recourse was to those of Dombes, Orange, and Avignon, and passing into Italy, they found work for some time for those of Monaco, and Massa. But having observed, that the Turks were more taken with the Pieces which had the impression of a Woman's Head, and those Princes being unwilling to suffer them to coin among them any Money of so base an alloy, or to give it the Stamp of Ja, the Princess of Dombes, they cast their eyes upon some Castles situate within the Territories of the Genueses, yet subject to the jurisdiction of the Empire, where they obtained what they desired, upon conditions not disadvantageous to the Lords of those places. The Pieces they got coined at Orange, were also sought after, and pleased the Turks, in regard the Stamp was beautiful, and very clear; but those of the Legate of Avignon were not so current, the Effigies thereof not being well done, and the Cross, hanging at the Neck, displeasing to the Turks. Had they contented themselves, in that Trade, with twenty five upon the hundred, it might have continued, and the profit would have been considerable: but by little and little, the thing came to so great an excess, till, at last, there was not one pennyworth of good Silver in every piece. The French, to make them pass the better, gave eighteen, and sometimes twenty for a Crown, of which abuse the great Merchants of Constantinople, Aleppo, Smyrna, and other Cities of Trade, made a good hand, they giving but twelve or thirteen for the worth of a Crown, in the payments they made to the petty Merchants of the Provinces of the Empire, for the Merchandizes they brought out of Turkey, there was none of that counterfeit Money dispersed, and the Armenians were far enough from burdening themselves with it, in regard that all the Money, which is carried into Persia, is presently conveyed to the Mints, upon the Frontiers, to be melted down, and aftwards coined into Abassis, whereof they give the Merchant an account, answerably to the Standard of his Money, after it has been examined; and by that means there can be no fraud committed. The same course is taken over all the Great Mogul's Empire; and of all the Princes in the World, he causes all the Species of Gold and Silver of the best Standard to be coined without admitting the least alloy. The Genuese Merchants, perceiving that the French had, at the beginning been fortunate The jealousy of the other Merchants. in their Commerce, would needs imitate them in other sorts of Money, and got two or three hundred thousand Ducats coined, which they carried into Turkey. But they had not the success they expected, the Gold was so counterfeit, that the cheat was immediately discovered, the Consul, and the Captain of the Vessel, were in some trouble about it, and the persons concerned therein, saved what they could of that disaster. The Germans also would needs come in for a share, taking another course all along the Dannow, quite to the mouth of it, from whence they got to Constantinople, through the Black Sea. With other their Merchandizes, most whereof consisted in the counterfeit Copper-wares of the City of Nuremberg, things fit enough those Nations, which border upon the Euxine Sea, they carried a quantity of Roups, or quarter- Rials, of the coinage of Poland, which were pleasant to the eye, and might have been commodious enough for the Merchants, if the adulteration had been moderate. But the Italians need not be much ashamed, that the Germans should be more successful than they upon that occasion, since that both Nations came short in point of subtlety, to deceive the Turks. But to return to the French, the first concerned in this History, to which it is time to pur a period. In the heat of their Commerce, and while all things were very well with them, they thought it not enough, to carry away the richest Merchandizes, but they also bought up all sorts of good Money they could meet withal, and brought it into France, to carry on and continue the coinage of their counterfeit pieces. This Trade was carried on so far, through the whole extent of that vast Empire, and there was so prodigious a quantity of that counterfeit Money spread abroad, that it was found by the Register-Books of the Farmers of the Customs, that the sum of what had been dispersed of it amounted to a hundred and fourscore millions [of Livers] not accounting what had never come to their knowledge, and what Seamen, and other private Persons might have concealed. The other Merchants and Traders of Europe, who brought none but good Money, having exclaimed against that disorder, and renewed their complaints to the Grand Vizir; the Turks at last opened their eyes, and that principal Minister, having comprehended, that if the thing continued, in a short time, in stead of Silver, there would be nothing but Copper in the Empire, prohibited the bringing in of any more of those pieces of five Sols, upon pain of confiscation, and great penalties to be inflicted on those, who durst do any thing contrary thereto, Yet could not that crying of them down, and the Grand Vizirs' prohibition make the Soldiers, who served in Candia, out of love with those little pieces, the beauty whereof they were so much taken withal. Notwithstanding all the Remonstrances that could be made to them, they would not be paid in any other kind of Money; and some discontented Persons and Mutineers, beginning to show their Teeth, they were forced immediately to to send Galleys to Smyrna, and some other Cities of great Commerce, to bring away all that could be found of that sort of money. The incredible quantity of those counterfeit pieces, dispersed in all the Provinces of the Ottoman Empire, is at least vanished, they are grown red, and no longer current. At the first crying down of that counterfeit money, before the news of it could A mischievous fraud gently punished. have been brought to foreign Countries, a certain Person named Goulin, engaged all he had in the world, to make up to the sum of five and twenty thousand Crowns in those pieces of five Sols, so extremely falsified, that there was hardly so much Silver as was requisite to whiten them. He came to Smyrna, where I than was, and where he soon found, that there was no way to put off his counterfeit Merchandise. Whereupon he imagined, that he might get it off, if he could make a speedy Voyage to Constantinople, where, as he had been assured, some Persons took them, even after they had been cried down. Being unwilling to hazard all by Sea, he sent away, by Land, four or five thousand Crowns, which were taken away by Thiefs, near Bursa, and carried the much greater part to Constantinople, in a Dutch Vessel, of which he had also sufficient cause to repent him. After he had exposed it at the Custom-house, for the payment of the Duties, the Chief Officer of the Customs told him, that he might return within two or three days, to take back what belonged to him; and as soon as the other was gone, he caused all to be melted down in his presence. The separation being made, upon twenty thousand Crowns, which was the sum he had brought thither, there was not the full fourth part of Silver, and the Merchant coming again to the Customer, fell down all along, out of pure fear lest a severe punishment might follow the fraud whereof he was visibly convicted, seeing so much scum of brass on the one side, and so little silver on the other. But the Turks are not so rigorous, as some persons imagine, all was restored to him, nay there was no penalty inflicted upon him, and they only ordered him to be gone. Certain it is, that the Europaeans, more addicted to subtlety and circumvention, than the Levantines, and for the most part not endeavouring to be sincere in Commerce, The ancient sincerity of the Turks corrupted by the commerce of the Europaeans. have taught the Turks several Cheats, which they were either ignorant of, or did not practise, especially since the Inhabitants of Granada, being driven out of Spain, dispersed themselves into several Provinces of the Levant. Before that time, a man might have relied on their integrity and fair dealing. But now, when you treat with them, you must stand upon your guard; so prevalent is the example of evil to corrupt men's minds. Nor are we to be astonished at that ancient undisguised humour of the Turks in their Commerce, since we find, that the poor Abyssines, who come from the lower parts of Ethiopia to traffic at Cairo, and the Idolaters themselves in the Indies amongst themselves and with Strangers, with a strict observance of an inviolable fidelity. CHAP. I. Of the extent, and external parts of the Seraglio. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The Origine of the word Serrail, or Seraglio, common to all the Royal Houses, as well in Turkey as Persia. The admirable Situation of the Grand Seraglio at Constantinople. It's extent, figure, and externals. The Artillery not kept in good order, and the Gunners not well skilled. A delightful place of itself; but restraint makes it otherwise. THE Grand Seignor's Seraglio, whereof I undertake to give a Description, The origins of the word Seraglio, common to all the Royal Houses in Turkey and Persia. is the Palace, where the Ottoman Princes ordinarily keep their Court. All the Royal Houses, as well in Turkey, as Persia, have the same Name, which derives its Origine from the word Serrai, which signifies a great Noble House, in the Persian Language. The Grand Seignor has many Seraglios, in the Provinces of his Empire, and the principal of them are those of Bursa, and Adrianople, two Residences which that Monarch does ordinarily make use of, according to the conjuncture of his Affairs. But to confine ourselves to Constantinople, we find there three Seraglios, which have all their different Beauties. The old Seraglio is the Palace, appointed for the retirement of those Women, who have served the Predecessors of the Prince Regent, and whence they never get out, unless it be in order to Marriage. The Grand Seignor goes thither but very seldom, and that when he is out of humour, to pass away some days there in solitude. The Seraglio of the Hippodrome, so called from the Exercises done there on Horseback, which was built by Ibrahim Bassa, Son-in-law, and Favourite to the Emperor Solyman the Second, serves now for an Amphitheatre for public Festivals, Exercises, Combats, Carousels, and particularly for the Circumcision of the Ottoman Princes, which is their greatest Solemnity. The third is the Grand Seraglio, whereof I make the Relation, and to which that Name is principally attributed, so as that there needs not any thing else to be added thereto, to distinguish rit from the others. I shall have but little to say concerning the Structures of it, wherein there is not any thing extraordinary to be observed, but shall rather insist upon what is privately done, in each Apartment of that great Palace. The Grand Seraglio is a vast place enclosed, which reaches to that point of Land, where the ancient Byzantium was built, upon the Bosphorus of Thrace, and the joining The admirable situation of the Seraglio of Constantinople. together of the Aegean Sea and the Euxine, which contribute so much to the beauty and wealth of Constantinople. This great City, let the Wind sit where it will, does every hour receive some refreshments or other, from one of those Seas; and the Seraglio, advancing itself into the Channel, which makes a communication between them, receives the first Advantages that may be derived thence. That great Enclosure makes a Triangle, one side whereof is to the Landside, and It's extent, figure, and extenals. reaches to the City, and the two others lie open to the Sea and a River which falls into it. This Triangle is unequal, and if it be divided into eight parts, that side, towards the Land takes up three of them, and the five others are for the two sides abutting on the Sea. Its compass is about three Italiah miles, or one of our common Leagues. And this Palace is surrounded all about with high and strong Walls, flanked on the Seaside with square Towers, at a considerable distance one from another; and towards the City, with round Towers, which are at a nearer distance one from another, from the great Gate of the Seraglio, which is towards St. Sophia, as far as the Sea, where you embark for Galata. In those Towers, in the nighttime, there are Guards of the Azamoglans, to see that no Body approaches the Seraglio, by Sea or Land; and if occasion require, they may fire some pieces of Artillery, which stand always loaden upon a Quay, of five fathom breadth, which is carried quite about the Seraglio. Upon one of those Towers, about a hundred paces from the great Gate of the Seraglio, as you go down, in order to your passage over to Galata, they have wrought a Closet, into which the Grand Seignor goes sometimes to divert himself, and to see People passing to and fro, without being seen himself. Somewhat lower, and upon the Seaside, there is a spacious place covered over, under which, as if it were in a little Haven, they keep the Caicks or Brigantines, wherein the Prince takes his divertisement by Water, when he is pleased to do it. Not far thence, within the enclosure of the Seraglio, are the Habitations of the Bostangis, who are entrusted with the conduct of the Brigantines; and at a little farther distance, in your way to the point of the Seraglio, which is towards Scudaret, stands the Quarter of the Bostangi-bachi, Overseer of the Gardens of the Seraglio, and of all the other Gardens belonging to the Grand Seignor. Upon the Quay, which, as I told you, does surround the Walls of the Seraglio, The Artillery out of order, and the Gunners not well skilled. there are forty or fifty pieces of Canon of different bigness, and there are some of so great a bore, that a Man might get into them. Opposite thereto, and in the middle of the Channel, there is a Tower built upon a Rock, which the Turks call Quisler houlesi, or the Tower of the Virgins. It is kept by Bostangis, and has its Guns levelled with the Water, which better defend the Straight, than those at the point of the Seraglio, which for the most part are without Carriages, and unserviceable. Besides, they want good Gunners, and if all that Artillery were well mounted, and managed by skilful Persons, it would better keep in awe, whatever comes out of the Mediterranean, and the Black Sea. Some few paces from the place where these Canons are planted, there springs a Fountain which comes out of the Seraglio, and casts a great quantity of Water, for the convenience of the Vessels, which lie at Anchor near it, and supply themselves therewith; it being not permitted that any should land on that side of the Seraglio, but upon that account. We have spoken sufficiently of the external parts, 'tis time we now enter into the A pleasant abode, but restraint makes it otherwise. Seraglio, and rather consider what passes in every Apartment of it, than the Structures thereof, wherein, as I said, there is not any thing of Magnificence, whatever some Persons might invent, who, in my presence, have made noble Draughts of it, grounded on their own pure Imaginations. I have seen as much of the Seraglio, as a Stranger could do, and I have seen it several times, in several Voyages, having had time enough to consider, the two first Courts, the Divan, and the Hall of Audience, but cannot celebrate them much for any great Beauties I could find in them. There is, I must confess, abundance of Marble and Porphyry in all the Apartments; but on the other side, all those Apartments are confusedly shuffled together; there is no regularity at all; most of the Rooms have but little light, and all the ornament of them consists in rich Tapestry laid all over the Floors thereof, and some Cushions of gold and silver Brokado, some whereof are embroidered with Pearls. But taking things generally, ●f the Walls and the Towers, which enclose the Seraglio, look more like a frightful Prison, than a Royal Palace, the Apartments, whereof it consists, have not also that wealth, or pleasure, for which the Palaces of France and Italy are so highly celebrated, and they offer not any thing which may long entertain the sight of a curious Person. All that can make the Seraglio a pleasant place of abode, is, the advantage of its situation, and indeed a nobler cannot be imagined. For it looks towards the East, and takes up the upper part, and the descent of a sloping Hillock, from St. Sophia, quite to the Channel. The Buildings are upon the most eminent places, and have a prospect into the Gardens, which run along the descent, as also into the two Seas which meet at the point of the Seraglio, whence the Grand Seignor may at the same time see Europe and Asia, in both which parts of the World, his Territories are very great. But never was any Prison thought a pleasant place, and there are few in the Seraglio, who rather would live in a Hut, and have their liberty, than be continually confined in a Palace under such severe Discipline. CHAP. II. Of the first Court of the Seraglio, and particularly, of the Infirmary. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The Regulations of the Infirmary of the Seraglio. The difficulties of getting Wine into it. The subtlety of some people to be received into it, though they are not sick. An abominable vice, common all over the East. The fruitless endeavours used to check the course of it. The sacrilegious action of two Ichoglans. The Wood-piles of the Seraglio. The great advantages of those who have the charge thereof. The exercise of the Girit. The Grand Seignor's Liberalities. The counterfeit Modesty of the Grandees of the Port. OF the many Gates which give a Man entrance into the Seraglio, as well on the Seaside, as on the Landside, that towards S. Sophia is the greatest. That is always open, the others not being so, but according to the Grand Seignor's pleasure. You first come to a great Portal, which has not any thing of magnificence, and where you only find certain golden Letters, and about them Fevillages and Compartments, according to the Arabian way of Painting. That Gate is kept by Fifty Capigis, who have for their Arms, the Firelock, the Dart, and the Scimitar, and gives you entrance into the first Court of the Seraglio, which is Four hundred paces in length, and a hundred in breadth, without any paving. On the right hand of that first Court, there runs all along a spacious structure, containing The Regulations of the Infirmary of the Seraglio. several Apartments or Chambers, and serving for an Infirmary to the whole Seraglio. The Gate of it is kept by an Eunuch, who has under him a great many People, employed in attending on, and ministering to the sick, whom, answerably to their quality, they dispose into convenient quarters in that house, where they may be better assisted, then in those which their indisposition had obliged them to quit. The two principal Physicians, and the two principal Surgeons, whom they call Hequinz-bachi, and Geïrah-bachi, make their visits there every day, at certain hours. A man cannot imagine a place better ordered and regulated then that is: and the Grand Signior himself sometimes comes thither in person, to take an exact account of the Sick and their condition, as also to inquire whether they are well treated, whether the Physicians visit them often, and whether every officer of the Infirmary perform the duty incumbent on him. There is seldom any place void in that House, for assoon as one is gone out, another comes in: and though it be designed only for such as are sick, yet several persons, who are well, are brought thither, under pretence of indisposition, or to enjoy themselves a while, or to weather out some trouble or discontent. They continue there for the space of ten or twelve days, and are diverted, according to their mode, with a wretched kind of vocal and instrumental Music, which gins betimes in the morning, and holds on till night. The permission they have there to drink wine, which they never have elsewhere, is a greater inducement for their coming in thither, than the Music. But that permission, which they would as 'twere conceal, and which the superstition of the Turks dares not publicly own, is accompanied by a thousand difficulties. They are not permitted to bring in any wine in the sight of the Eunuch, who stands at the entrance of the place: and if any one should be surprised in the doing of it, his punishment would be to receive three hundred bastinadoes, and a penalty of three hundred Asper's, to be paid to those from whom he had received them. But if he can cunningly get in with the Wine, not having been stopped at the Gate, assoon as he is got in, he runs no risk at all, and may drink of it without fear of any chastisement, though 'twere in the presence of the Grand Seignor. The small quantity of wine which can be got in by this way, would signify but The difficulty of getting wine into the Infirmary. little among so many People, if there were not some other less difficult contrivances to supply them therewith. And this is one of them. The Infirmary adjoins to one side of the Gardens, from which it is separated only by a wall which is not very high; so that the Bostangis, who find that wine goes off at a good rate, and that they who are within the Seraglio know not how to spend their money, do, in the night time, by ropes convey over the wall, so many Borrachoes or bags of Buck-Skins, full of wine, containing forty or fifty quarts, which some other persons of the Infirmary stand ready to receive. This way brings in abundance of wine, but not without fear of being surprised by the Bostangi-bachi, who goes the rounds every night. Nor is the drinking of wine the main inducement which makes those counterfeit sick persons to seek out pretences, to go and pass away some days in the Infirmary; insomuch The subtlety of some persons to be received in, though not sick. that some have the lewd artifice to put themselves into a slight Fever, which is presently removed. A detestable passion, and which is in a manner natural to them, though it be against nature, makes them study all the imaginable ways to satisfy it. This proves a hard matter for the Ichoglans to do, while they are in their chambers observed and watched night and day by severe Overseers, who never pardon them the least misdemeanour. For though the Grand Seignor be himself subject to the same passion, the very name whereof causes a horror, yet he order cruel punishments to be inflicted on those who shall presume to imitate him. He does what he can to prevent the mischief, which he would not have countenanced by his example, and imposes the prevention of it as a task upon the Eunuches, a vigilant sort of animals, whose Eyes are always open. But in the Infirmary, all these precautions prove fruitless; the Eunuches belonging to that place being corrupted partly by presents, partly by treats, or being made drunk with wine, or some other liquors, they bring in thither some young lads, of whom there is great store in the City of Constantinople. The better to overreach the Eunuches, they put those young lads into the habits of the Halvagisses, and so the cheat succeeds, in regard they are the attendants on the Officers of the Seraglio, and do all the errands they have to do in the City. Of these Halvages, there is ordinarily to the number of six hundred, and they have only their clothing and sustenance allowed them, without any wages, till such time as they have served thirteen or fourteen years. Their wages begin at the rate of two Asper's [per diem] and in time may rise to seven Asper's and a half: but they have other contingent Profits, and they know well enough, how to make their advantage of the Employments they are put upon. For whereas they only are the Persons who have the freedom of going and coming in and out of the Seraglio, they set double the price on every thing they buy. But their most cunsiderable gain proceeds from the infamous commerce of those young Lads, whom they bring in to their Masters, and whom they cunningly slip into the Infirmary, after they had put them into Habits like their own. They wear a white Cap, which rises up from the Crown of the Head, to a pretty height somewhat to the resemblance of a Sugar-loaf. The Hasteler-Agasi, or chief Overseer of the Infirmary, is indeed continually at the The fruitless endeavours used to check its course. Gate, with five or six other Eunuches, and carefully observes whatever goes in, or comes out. But all that vigilence will not do the work; nay though he had a hundred eyes, yet were it impossible for him to discern those young Lads, amidst the great number of those Halvagisses, and that the rather, for these reasons, that they are frequently changed, that some of them are made Janissaries, and that new ones are taken in upon the advancement of the old ones to some other Employments. But if it should happen that the said Superintendent Eunuch should have any secret information of what's designed, and seems as if he would make some noise about it, he is presently appeased with a silk Vest, or some other Present, and 'tis thence that he derives his greatest advantages. In fine, that brutish Passion is so ordinary amongst the Turks, Absminable excess over all the East. and generally over all the Eastern parts, that notwithstanding all the endeavours that have been used to prevent the effects of it, they will hardly ever be able to do it. There happened a memorable Example of this in my time. Two Pages of the Chamber, The Sacrilegious action of two Pages. who could not have the convenience of executing their wicked design in the Seraglio, would needs aggravate their crime, by going into the Mosquey to satiate their brutality. After Prayers were ended, they suffered all the people to go out, and having so well hid themselves that he who shut the doors could not perceive them, they fell to the doing of an action, whereof the very Idea causes horror. On the left hand of this first Court, there is a spacious Lodgement, answerable to The Wood-Pi of the Straglio. that of the Infirmary; and that's the habitation of the Azamoglans, persons designed for the meanest Employments of the Seraglio. Within that Structure there is a spacious Court, where you shall find disposed in order, all about, and in the middle, so many Wood-piles, which are renewed every year, and there are brought in thither above forty thousand Cart-loads of wood, every Cartload being as much as two Oxen can draw. Some part of this wood comes in by the Black Sea, and the rest out of the Mediterranean; and whereas there is a great quantity of it left every year, especially when the grand Seignor does not winter at Constantinople, that remainder, which must be very considerable, is disposed of to the advantage of the principal persons among the Azamoglans. They are cunning enough to take their opportunity, when it is The great profit of such as have the Charge thereof. unloaden upon the Port, and computing, as well as they can, how much may go to make up the Piles, they proportionably send, what they think may be spared, to the City, and lodge it in the houses, where they are acquainted. Which they may do with so much the more security, in regard that no body minds what they do, and that they perform their duty, when the Piles are completed, in the season, during which they are wont to make their Provisions. The wood they thus convert to their own use they are paid for, and the sum raised thereby is considerable for Persons of so mean a Quality. On the same side as the Infirmary, and a little lower, (for the Seraglio is a rising The Exercise of the Girit. ground for a certain space, and then there is an insensible descent on both sides, quite down to the point, whereby it is terminated) you discover the great Portal of the Gardens, which they call Bagge-Karpousi. From that Gate, which overlooks the foresaid descent, and where you are as it were upon an Eminency, you descend into a very noble Place, which the Grand Seignor causes to be always kept neat and even, where the Great Persons of the Court come to do the Exercises of the Girit, or the Dart, which is performed, most commonly, upon Fridays, immediately after their coming out of the Mosquey. There are about two hundred paces from the Portal to that place, and in the Court there may ordinarily be, upon those days above fifteen hundred Persons, yet so as that not any person whatsoever is permitted to go any further, unless he be called by the Order of the Girit-Bey, who is the chief Overseer, and Director of that Exercise. They who enter into the Lists, do many times amount to the number of a thousand Persons. If the Grand Seignor himself, who is present at those Exercises, the The Grand Seignors liberalities. end whereof proves many times Tragical to those, by whom they are performed, has found any particular divertisement therein, especially when there are Limbs lost or broken, he order every one to receive a Purse, which, as I told you, amount to five hundred Crowns. The distribution of those Presents is greater or lesser, according to his being in a good or bad humour, and sometimes there are distributed at his departure thence, to the number of ten Purses. The Treasurer, who is always attending on him, and has ordinarily brought along with him fifteen or twenty thousand Rials in Gold and Silver, stands ready, upon a beck, to obey his Orders. But this is worth our observation, That when the Prince is ready to bestow his Liberalities, on those who had behaved themselves valiantly in that exercise, the Grandees The counterfeit modesty of the Grandees of the Port. of his Court, who had appeared therein as well as others, purposely shift themselves out of the way, and leave him to make his Presents to other less considerable Persons, as being such as stand more in need of them than they do. This is their custom ordinarily, whether it proceed from Generosity, or from a counterfeit and personated Modesty, it matters not. And after the Grand Seignor is withdrawn, it is lawful for those who are left in the foresaid Court, and are skilled in the handling of the Dart, to spend the remainder of the day in that Exercise. But those, how great soever their performances may be, and what wounds soever they may receive, are not to expect any Presents; There's no Prince to be a spectator of their Gallantry, nor Treasurer, to distribute his Liberalities. They only lay some wagers amongst themselves, and he who gives the fairest blow, wins, and the fairest blow is in the head, or face. There is ever and anon an Eye struck out, or a Cheek carried off, and that Solemnity proves very fatal in the end to some of them. And this is an account of all that is observable in the said first Court, Let us now make our entrance into the second, and observe what is most remarkable in all its Apartments. CHAP. III. Of the second Court, wherein are the little Stables, the Kitchens, and the Divan. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. A square and spacious Court, and its Embellishments. The Janissaries extremely sprightful, active, and well ordered. The number of the Kitchens. The ordinary dishes of meat that are served up in the Seraglio. The way of ordering the Pilau. A particular way of roasting in the Levant. The Turks cannot endure the Hare. Conserves of all sorts. Several compositions of Sherbet. Receptacles for all the waters of the Seraglio. The little Stables. The Quarter of the Eunuches. OUt of the first Court, into which the Bassas and Grandees of the Port, may come on Horseback, and where they are obliged to alight, if they intent to go any further, there is an entrance into another, through a second Gate, kept, as the former, by fifty Capigis. The second Court, much more noble, and more delightful, then that whereof we gave you the precedent description, is near three hundred paces square, and only the walks, leading to the several Apartments, are paved, the rest being in Grassplots, planted about with Cypress, and watered by Fountains, with rails all about, to hinder people from going upon the grass. Over the gate of that Court, may be seen these words, written in great golden Characters. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 La Illahé Illa Alla, Muhammed Resoul Alla. That is to say, There is no other God than God, Mahomet is sent by God. Resoul signifies sent, which is the greatest Title given by the Turks to their Prophet. On both sides of that Court there runs a very noble Gallery, the pillars whereof are of marble, all along which the Companies of the Janissaries are drawn up, and disciplined, The Janissaries well ordered. when the Grand Seignor order them to show their activity, and to appear well armed, at the arrival of some Ambassador, who is to have Audience. On the right hand, behind the Gallery, where the Janissaries are drawn up, on the Divan-days [that is to say, upon Council-days] are the Kitchens, and the Offices of the Seraglio, distinct one from the other, and every one served by its peculiar Officers. Heretofore there were nine of them, but now that number is reduced to seven. Every Office or Kitchen, has its chief Director, or Master-Cook, and there is a Superintendent above them all, named the Akegi-bachi, who has the command over four hundred Cooks. The chiefest of these Kitchens, which is for the Grand Signior himself is called Hasmoutbak. The number of the Kitchens. The Second is called Valede-Sultanum-Moutbaki, and is designed for the Sultanesses, as for instance, the Mother, the Wife, or, to say better, the Princess, for whom the Grand Seignor has the greatest kindness, and who had the happiness to bring into the World a Successor to the Empire, as also for his Sisters and Daughters. The third Kitchen, which they call Kisler-Agazinum-Moutbaki is appointed for the Overseer of the Apartment of the Women, and the other Negro-eunuches who are employed about the guarding of them. The fourth is for the Capou-Agasi, or Grand Master of the Seraglio, who has the greatest access to the Grand Seignor's Person, and whose Charge (as I said elsewhere) generally extends over whatever enters into the Palace. And this Kitchen serves also for the Officers of the Divan. The fifth is for the Chasnadarbachi, or the chief Person concerned about the Treasury, and for those who are under his jurisdiction, and obey his Orders. The sixth is for the Kilargibachi, or principal Cupbearer, and those who have their dependence upon him. The seaventh and last, is that of the Sarai-Agasi, and of all the Officers, who are under his charge. Lastly, as for the Bostangis, whose work lies in the Gardens, they dress their Meat themselves, and appoint some among them to execute that Office, and they provide the Commons for all the rest. There are also some of these Bostangis employed in the Offices designed for the Grand Seignor. There enters no Beef into the Kitchens of the Seraglio: but the ordinary consumption The ordinary meats served up in the Seraglio. of every day, including all, as well those who eat within, as without, may amount to Five Hundred Sheep, in which number must be comprehended Lambs and Kids; and the greatest part of those Sheep, are brought from the Frontiers of Persia; which Country excels all others, as to that creature. According to this proportion of Mutton, may be computed the quantity of Pullet's, Chickens, and young Pigeons, the number whereof is limited, according to the Seasons; as also what may be consumed in Rice, and Butter, for the Pilau, which is accounted the best dish in Turkey, and all over the East. Those Nations, who are lovers of Temperance, and do not much study the satisfaction of the palate, seldom have any other dish: and that not being contemptible, some haply will give me thanks, for communicating the ordering of it. The Turks, and generally all the Inhabitants of the Eastern parts, make the Pilau, The way of ordering the Pilau. after this manner. According to the quality of the persons who are to be entertained, and the quantity which is to be made of it, you take either a piece of Mutton alone, or together with that some Pullet's or Pigeon's, which are to be boiled in a pot, till they are half done, or somewhat more. When you think them so far boiled, then pour out both meat and broth into a Basin, and the Pot being washed, put it on the fire again with Butter in it, which they suffer to melt, till such time as it is very hot. Then they chop the meat, which had been but half-boiled into little pieces, the Pullet's into quarters, and the Pigeons into halves, and so they cast it into the Butter, they fricass it, till it be of a very brown colour. The Rice being well washed, they put some into the Pot over the meat, as much as they think fitting, and the broth, which had been poured into the Basin, they also put it into the Pot, Ladleful after Ladleful, over the Rice, till such time as it stands two fingers breadth above it. Then is the Pot immediately covered, there is a clear fire made under it, and they ever and anon take out some grains of the Rice, to see if it be softened, as also whether it be requisite to put in some more of the broth, to complete the stewing of it. For it is not like the Rice brought into our parts, which presently breaks asunder, but their Rice is of such a kind, that is must be fully boiled, and yet the Grain entire, as well as the whole Pepper, wherewith they season it. As soon as it is come to that condition, they cover the Pot with a cloth three or four times doubled, and set the Potlid upon that, and some time after, they make another melting of Butter, till it be very red; to be cast into the holes, which are made in the Rice, with the handle of the Ladle, after which they cover it again of a sudden, and so let it stand soaking awhile, and then serve it up. It is put into large Dishes, with the meat handsomely disposed upon it, and some part will be white, that is, continued in its natural colour, some part, yellow, occasioned by a little mixture of Saffron, and a third part of a Carnation-colour, done by the tincture of the juice of Pomegranate. Nay, though the meat be as fat as is requisite for the ordering of this Dish, yet to make the Pilau more delicate and palatable to them, they bestow three pounds of Butter on six pounds of Rice, which makes it so extraordinary fat, that it disgusts, and is nauseous to those who are not accustomed thereto, and accordingly would rather have the Rice itself simply boiled with water and salt. There are always two or three Dishes served up after that manner, to the Grandees of the Port, who, for the most part, keep open Table, and instead of flesh, they cover them with a great Omelet or Omelet, made with good Herbs, and about three fingers thick, or with some poached Eggs, which are neatly disposed all about it. A man is never incommodated by this kind of Rice, but the other, which is too fat, is not fit for those who drink wine, and will not excite in them a desire to eat of it often. Since I have given you an account how they order the Pilau, I cannot forbear making A particular way of roasting in the Levant. you a further discovery of the Turks management of the Kitchen, and telling you how they roast their meat. The greater sort of meat, as sheep and Lambs are roasted whole, in Ovens made in the Floor, wherein they hang them by the heads, and they are taken out thence as it were brown-baked, and Cooked well enough, so as to excite appetite. At the bottom of the Oven there is ordinarily a Basin placed, having in it some Rice and fair Water, which receives the drippings of the Beast, the very Tail itself, which sometimes weighs fifteen or twenty pound, yielding a good quantity thereof, as being in a manner all fat. The Tails of the Lambs, having not so much fat, are excellent meat, and in a manner as delicate as the Sweetbreads of Veal. These Lambs being thus roasted, are always served up with Rice under them; and for the greater Tables, they serve up two of them in a Dish. So that there is no use of Spits in the Turkish Kitchens, but what is for Poultry, or Fowl, which they order so untowardly, that when they are brought up to the Table, they appear so mangled and disordered, that it is no easy matter to distinguish the head from the feet. But it is to be observed, that the Pilau, and all sorts of Flesh-meat are not served up, but only at Supper, about five of the Clock in the Evening; and that in the morning, those of better Quality eat only Salads, Herbs, Fruits, and Conserves; the meaner sort of people contenting themselves with meats made of Milk, Melons, and Cucumbers, according to the Season. As for Fish, the Turks care not much for it, and though the Seas and Rivers are well replenished therewith, yet they seldom eat of them. It seldom happens also, that any Venison or Wildfowl comes into their houses, as being a kind of meat they do not any way relish. But above all meats they have an aversion for the Hare; which observation I made also in the Armenians, who are of a persuasion, that the Female The Turks have an aversion for the Hare. of that Creature has its monthly courses regularly, as the Woman hath. It is easily perceivable, by what account I have given, that there is no great variety or delicacy in the Turkish Entertainments, and that the French and other Europaeans would not think themselves well treated thereat. But, however, their Kitchens are kept very neat, they have all the accommodations requisite for their way of dressing, and whether you consider the Dishes and other Vessels they use, or the meat itself, there is as much cleanliness as can be expected. The Officers where the Conserves and Sweetmeats are made (there being six or Conserves. seven of them) are above the Kitchens, and served by four hundred Halvagisses, who were established by Sultan Solyman, a magnificent Prince, who also regulated all the Offices and Officers of the Seraglio. They are perpetually at work in those seven Offices, and there they prepare all sorts of Conserves, dry and liquid, and several sorts of Syrups, as also several kinds of Turchi, which are Fruits preserved in Vinegar and Salt, into which, they put a quantity of fragrant Herbs, such as Rosemary, Marjoram, and Sage. In the same Offices they also prepare the ordinary drink of the Turks, which they call Sherbet, and it is made several ways. That which is most common in Turkey comes Several compositions of Sherbet. somewhat near our Lemonade, but there is very little water in it; 'tis in a manner all juice of Lemmon, or Citron, having an intermixture of Sugar, Amber, and Musk. They make another sort of it, which is highly in esteem, and that is made with the water distilled from the flower of a Plant, which grows in Pools and Rivers, and has the figure of a Horse-shoe. These flowers are yellow, and called Nuloufer. But the Sherbet which they most esteem, and which is drunk by the Grand Seignor himself, as also by the Bassa's and other Grandees of the Port, is made of Violets and Sugar, and there is but little juice of Citron put into it. They make also another sort of drink, which they call Magion, composed of several Drugs, whereby it is made hot: and there is another sort purposely prepared for the Grand Seignor himself, called Muscavi, of which he takes a Dose, when he intends to visit the Sultanesses. The principal Persons about the Court send for it secretly to the Halvagibachi, who does not deny them, as being a great advantage to him, because he is well paid for it. Nor do they want Snow and Ice, to cool all those Liquors, and the Turks are much more humorous and delicate in their drinks, than they are in their Meat. At a place ten or twelve paces distant, and opposite to these Offices, is the Receptacle, Receptacles for the Waters of the Seraglio. or Reservatory, which distributes all the Waters of the Seraglio, and they are thence directed to every Quarter, into the places where there is a necessity of them. One of the Baltagis has his station there all the day long, to give Water as he is directed. And when the Grand Seignor passes from one Quarter to another, the fountain of that, where he is in person, plays continually during his abode there, by a Signal which is given to the Baltagis. On the left hand, in the same Court, and opposite to the Kitchens, may be seen the Grand Seignor's little Stables, which do not hold above twenty five or thirty The little Stables. choice Horses, designed for his Exercises with his Favourites, and above the Stables, in great Rooms, they keep the Saddles, Bridles, Horses, Trappings, Footcloths, and Stirrups, which are of inestimable value, by reason of the abundance of precious Stones, whereby they are enriched. There are some Harnesses which amount to a million of Livers, French Money. The great Stables stand all along the Canal, which beats against the Walls of the Seraglio. They are always well replenished, and in good order, and they take care, that there be not so much as one vacant place therein. In those Stables does the Grand Seignor keep a great number of Horses of value, to be reserved for the War, or to be used in some Magnificent Solemnity, that Strangers may see the Splendour of his Court. CHAP. IU. Of the Hall of the Divan, and the exact Justice which the Grand Seignor causes to be admitted there. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The Divan-Hall not very magnificent. The Council-days. Causes quickly decided. The causes of that expedition of Justice in Turkey. The subtle Policy of the Ottoman Family. The care which is taken to prevent the revolt of the Janissaries. How the Grand Seignor assists at the Divan, or Council. The bold action of a Timar-Spahi, who kills a Grand Vizir, and is pardoned. The noble Genius of Sultan Amurat, and by what Artifices he discovered a great breach of Trust. A kind of Beads used by the Turks at their Prayers. A noble Example of a severe act of Justice. At what times, and how, the Grand Seignor rids those out of the way whom he suspects. The days on which Ambassadors come to the Divan. THe Hall of the Divan, which belongs to this Second Court, is, on the left The Divan-Hall not very Magnificent. hand, next to the little Stables, as you go towards the Grand Seignor's Quarter. 'Tis a great low Hall, covered with Lead, and wainscoted and gilded in some places within, from which it derives a little Ornament. The Floor of it is covered with a great Carpet, and there are some Benches for the Officers, of whom that Council consists, which the Turks call Divan. There are, as I told you, Galleries of all the sides of that Court, which makes it look as it were like a Cloister; and 'tis under that Gallery which is on the right hand, that the Janissaries have their station, while the Divan is sitting. The Council sits, ordinarily, four days in the week, which days are answerable to Council-days. the Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday of the Christians. Justice is there exactly administered to any one that desires it, and for what cause Causes soon decided. soever it be, so, as that the differing Parties have no need either of Proctors or Advocates names not known in Turkey, and the Persons concerned are to lay open their Cases themselves. There is no talk of delays, or putting off from one time to another; people shall not languish in expectation, but the business is decided immediately, what nature soever it may be of. Though this Custom be very commendable, yet can it not be so well practised The Reasons of that Expedition of Justice. amongst Christians, because they stand upon the property of what they have, and that is derived by Inheritance from some to others, and the litigious partitions of them do many times engage the Proprietors thereof in long Suits of Law. 'Tis quite otherwise amongst the Great Officers of the Port, who are all Slaves, either taken in War, or sent up, as Presents, by the Bassa's, and Governors of Provinces. All their Estates, when they die, return to the Grand Seignor, from whom they had received them, so that it is a perpetual Circulation: and their Children, as I told you in the beginning of this Discourse, are brought up to the Seraglio, to be educated there, and that without any hope of ever succeeding their Parents, either in their Estates, or Employments. The Ottoman Monarchy has always observed this subtle Policy, not to permit that any Family should aggrandise itself, and be powerful from Father to Son: but they bring it down, as soon as they have raised it up, and timely enough deprive them of the means whereby they might create Factions, to the disturbance of the State. Thence it comes, that, besides the Royal Family of the Ottomans, they know not what Gentility, and antiquity of Extraction means; there's no emulation upon that score, and Charges and Dignities are bestowed answerably to the Merit of the Person, without any consideration of his Extraction. Nay, it sometimes happens, that the Principal Ministers of the Empire, are the Sons of Cowkeepers, as was one Rustan, a Grand Vizir, who made so much noise under the Reign of Solyman. And so, being not any way obliged to their birth, they acknowledge their Fortunes to be the reward of their Education. But to return to the administration of Justice amongst the Turks. Those who make the Law their profession, and are looked upon as the Clergy of Mahomet, leave no place for suits at Law; every one knows his privileges, and what belongs to the function of his Charge, and there arise no differences among them, because all things are perfectly well regulated. In like manner, the people are ignorant what pleading signifies. There's no occasion for public Notaries, in order to Matrimonial contracts; There's no great sums given with a daughter, and the jewels and clothes which she can get out of her Father's house, are all the portion she brings to her Husband. And this, in few words, is the reason that the Turks can put an expeditious end to all their affairs, without giving any toleration to that perifogging, which, among Christians, proves the ruin of so many People. The Officers, who sit in the Divaen are, first, the Grand Vizir, the Lieutenant-General of the whole Empire, who is Precedent of it, and represents the Grand Seignor's Person; Then the six other Viziers; Then the Cadilesquers of Romania and Anatolia, who are the Judges and Intendants of the Armies; Then the three Tefterdars, or Treasurers-General; Then the Nissangibacha, the Lord Chancellor; And the Netangi, who is as 'twere the Secretary of State, with some Clerks, or Notaries. All these Officers come into the Divan-Hall, at four in the Morning, and continue there till noon, to administer Justice. The Chiaoux-bachi has his station at the Gate, with a troop of those that are under his charge, to execute the Grand Vizirs' Orders, and has a silver-rod in his hand, as a badge of his Authority. On those days that the Divan sits, the Officers are entertained at dinner in the same The care taken to prevent the revolt of the Janissaries. Hall, which is done with much sobriety, and little Ceremony. All is over and taken away, in half an hours time. The Grand Vizir eats alone, unless he call a Bassa or two, to keep him company. There are carried also messes of Chourba, which is a kind of pottage made with Rice, for the dinners of the Janissaries, who are in their stations, under the Galleries. But if it happen, that they are in a mutinous humour, and incensed against a Vizir, or against the Grand Seignor himself, not one of them will put his hand to the Chourba, but they scornfully thrust back the dishes, and by that action discover their discontent. The Grand Seignor is presently advertised of it, and sends to them the Capou-Agasi, Grand Master of the Seraglio, to know what their pleasure is, and what they desire. Then they depute one of their own Body to go, and speak on the behalf of them all; and that person whispering the Capou-Agasi in the Ear, declares to him the occasion of their discontent. That Eunuch presently carries it to the Grand Seignor; And if they have a peek against a Vizir, or a Cadilesquer, or sometimes against their Aga, or Colonel, it often happens that to appease those mutineers, the Grand Seignor order them to be strangled, and sends them their heads. Sunday and Tuesday are the principal days of the Divan, and then it is properly a How the Grand Seignor is present at the Divan. Council of State, and of public affairs. The Grand Seignor most commonly assists at it, but is not seen; and that keeps in awe as well the Grand Vizir, as the other Officers. He can come thither from his own Apartment, through a close Gallery, and seat himself at a window, which looks into the Divan-Hall, and has always a velvet Curtain before it, which he draws when he pleases, and especially when he perceives that they have not done Justice. I shall produce here, an example, famous enough as to that particular, which happened in the Reign of Sultan Achmet, the Father of Amurath, and one of the justest Princes, that ever the Ottoman Empire had. The Reader is to call to mind, what I said at the beginning, concerning the Timar-Spahi, on whom they bestow, during their lives, the Government and revenue of The bold action of a Timer-Spahi, who kills a Grand Vizir, and is pardoned. some Town, according as they have deserved by their Services. The Spahi, whose story I am going to relate, had a Timar, between Aleppo and Damas', which might bring him in a revenue of fifteen hundred Crowns. The Grand Vizir, either out of some aversion to the Spahi, or upon some false reports which had been made of him, and which he had been too forward to believe, without taking an exact information of things, took away from him the Timar, whereof he was possessed, and bestowed it on one of his own Creatures. The Spahi, finding himself so unjustly dispossessed comes to Constantinople, enters into the Divan, and presents a Petition to the Grand Vizir, wherein he remonstrates to him his long Services, and how he never was chargeable with any negligence of his duty. The Grand Vizir having read it, tears it in his presence, which was to signify as much, as that he would not answer it, and that there was nothing for the Spahi to hope for. The Petitioner withdrew, without saying any thing: but some days afterwards, he returns to the Divan, and presents a second Petition, which the Grand Vizir likewise tears, as he had done the former, without making any answer thereto. Upon this second injury, the Spahi, full of fury, and justly exasperated, draws his Poniard, falls upon the Vizir, and kills him. The Grand Seignor, who was then at the Window, having observed that action, draws the Curtain, and with a loud voice commanded that no hurt should be offered to the person who had done it. He thereupon order the Spahi to approach, and asked him the Reason of his having demeaned himself with so much violence. The other much ashamed, humbly makes answer, but with resolution enough, That he could not forbear doing what he had done, upon the sight of so great a piece of Injustice: and thereupon presenting to him the Petition, which had been torn to pieces; the Grand Seignor caused it to be read, and patiently harkened to the just complaints which it contained. Having fully examined the Affair, his Highness commended the Spahi for the Action he had done, using the word Aferim, which is as much as to say, 'Tis well done, and which is ordinary in that Language, when they approve a thing; and thereupon, there was an additional Liberality made by the Grand Seignor to the Command which he gave, that he should be reestablished in his Timar. He thereupon took occasion to speak to the other Viziers, and to tell them, That that Example should teach them to do just things, and not to suffer themselves to be so blinded by favour, as not to observe Equity. The violent action of the Spabi is certainly not to be approved, though the injustice of the Vizir was manifest: but the procedure of the Grand Seignor, cannot be looked on otherwise then as most commendable, and a great Model of perfect Equity. I shall not think it much, to produce here a second Example of the exact Justice, which the Grand Seignor would have administered to the People: and in this Example there is something that is signally remarkable. A great Stone-Mortar, which may be seen at the Gate of the Divan, serves for a Monumental confirmation of this Story; and whereas it is accompanied by many circumstances worthy our observation, I think myself obliged not to conceal them from the Reader. In the Reign of Sultan Amurat, a certain private Person finding himself without How Sultan Amurat discovered a secret breach of trust. Wife or Children, resolved to undertake the Pilgrimage of Mecha. Before his departure, he conceived, that he could not better dispose what he left behind him that was most valuable, then by putting it into the hands of a Hoggia, a Doctor of the Law. He thereupon left in his custody certain Jewels, in a little bag, entreating him to keep them till he returned, and declaring him his Heir, in case he died in his Pilgrimage. It was the Pilgrim's fortune to return safely from Mecha, and making no question but to get what he had entrusted the Hoggia withal, calls for what he had deposited in his hands. The other makes him a very cold answer, telling him, That he knew not what he meant, leaving him very much surprised at so unexpected an account of his concerns. The Pilgrim, smothering his discontent, and reflecting, that the thing had been done without witnesses, did nothing for some days; but, afterwards, he Presents a Petition to the Grand Vizir, and acquaints him how all things had passed between him and the Doctor. The Grand Vizir perceiving there was a great nicety in that affair, and that the Doctor might easily deny a thing which had been transacted without witnesses, bid the Pilgrim have patience awhile, and that he would give the Grand Seignor an account of it; which he accordingly did. The Grand Seignor Commands the Vizir to be very circumspect in the management of that Affair, as being very desirous to sift out the truth of it, and orders him to send for the Doctor, to make protestations of friendship to him, and to put him in hopes of being employed in things of great importance. Some days pass on, while the Grand Vizir minds what Game he had to play. At length, he sends for the Doctor, he commends his Ingenuity, and his Conduct; and so putting him into very fair hopes, he promises him to prevail so far with the Grand Seignor, as that he should have the honour to kiss his hands, since it was not just, that so transcendent a Wit as he should be any longer unknown to his Highness. The Doctor overjoyed at that discourse, thought himself the happiest man in the World, especially when he saw, that the Grand Vizir had made him his Hougia, which is as much as to say, his Almoner. The Vizir proceeds, and according to the secret Orders he had received from the Grand Seignor, gives the Doctor another Employment, which was, that he should bring him in a Report of all the Criminal Affairs which could be presented. The Grand Seignor, upon the Report of the Hougia, asked him his advice, and what punishment the guilty Person deserved for the Crime whereof he was convinced, the execution being to be done according to the judgement which the Doctor had passed, whom he made his ordinary Reader, and would have near his Person. Five or six months pass on in this manner, ere there could be any discovery made of the falsified Trust. And it is to be observed, That the Pilgrim had given the Grand Seignor an exact Inventory of all the several things, which he had put into the little Bag. Among other things, there was particular mention made of a Tesbuch of fine Coral. This Tesbuch is a kind of Chaplet, or String of Beads, consisting of ninety and nine beads, upon each of which, the Turks repeat certain words taken out of some sentences of the Alcoran. That Chapelet is divided into three parts, from thirty three, to thirty three beads, by a little string, which separates them: and at the end, there hanged a long piece of Coral, next to which there was another round bead, of the same material, of an extraordinary bigness. The more Puritanical sort of Turks have their Beads in their hands when they are upon visits, and especially when they approach great Persons, and that very thing made the first discovery of the Hoggia's theft, and breach of trust. One day, coming into the Seraglio with his Coral-beads in his hand, the Grand Seignor, before whom he presented himself, casting his eyes upon them, and presently imagining, that it might well be the Pilgrim's Tesbuch, according to the description he had given of it in the Catalogue of what things were left in the little bag, told the Doctor, that he had a great rarity there. The other immediately approaches him, and entreats his Highness with all submission to accept of it. The Grand Seignor takes it, and making some discoveries how acceptable that Present was to him, does, by that prudent dissimulation, cause a joy in him, whose chastisement he was then contriving. But that single indicium the Grand Seignor does not think enough, but he will have other discoveries; and knowing that among other things that were in the bag, there was a Ring, the work of an excellent and an ancient Master, famous for that sort of Rings, which the Turks wear on the Thumb, when they shoot with the Longbow, he expects a second occasion, in order to a fuller discovery of the Cheat, and the more absolute conviction of the Doctor. 'Twas not many days ere that happened, by the contrivance of the Emperor himself, who calling for one of his Pages, one well skilled in Archery, went to the place of the Girit, where he also called for a Bow, there being not any person in the whole Empire but was inferior to him, as to strength and dexterity in the Exercises of the Bow and the Dart. When he came to bend the Bow, he complained that the Ring hurt his Thumb, presuming that the Doctor, who stood near him, and had already presented him with the Coral-Beads, would also make him a proffer of the Ring, which he had of the Pilgrim's. It is possible, says the Grand Seignor, that there is not at this time any Master living who can make a Ring any thing like such a one, whom he named? The Doctor, whose apprehension was not so good, as to see that this trap was laid for his destruction, and thinking to insinuate himself more and more into the Grand Seignor's favour, told him T, hat, by good Fortune he had a Ring of that very Master's work, which he had kept a long time, and that if his Highness would be pleased to accept of it, he would bring it thither, which he presently did. Assoon as the Grand Seignor was returned to his own Quarter, he sent for the Grand Vizir, and the Pilgrim, who came into his presence, and he had in his hand the Chapelet of Coral, which he made as if he were repeating, to try whether the Pilgrim would know it again. The other having well observed it, addressed himself to the Emperor, saying, If it shall please your Highness to permit me to open my mouth, I dare affirm, that the Chapelet, you have in your hands, is very like that, which was in my little bag of Jewels, and possibly I shall not be mistaken, if I say it is the very same. Whereupon the Grand Seignor commands him to come nearer, and putting the Chapelet, and the Ring into his hands, the Pilgrim affirms, upon his life, that they are the very same things, which he had left in the custody of the Doctor. He coming the next morning, according to his custom to make a report of some criminal cause to the Grand Seignor, that Prince, who was a person of great ingenuity and apprehension, proposes to him a case somewhat of the same nature with that between him and the Pilgrim, and asked him what punishment such a crime deserved. The unfortunate man, blinded by a good fortune wherein he thought himself already well established, and what was past being clearly got out of his remembrance, pronounced sentence against himself, and answers the Grand Seignor, That such a person, deserved to be pounded alive in a Mortar. Upon that sentence, the Emperor caused him to be immediately secured, and having A severe, but just Punishment. ordered all his chests to be brought into the Seraglio, by the Baltagis, whom he sent to his Lodgings, pulls out of his pocket the Chapelet of Coral, and the Ring, which he shows him, and told him, that those two pieces were taken out of a little bag, which a Pilgrim of Mecha had entrusted him with the custody of. He afterwards shows him the note or schedule of all the other pieces, and commanding him to open his Chests, the Jewels were there found, which that unhappy man, convinced of his guilt, and trembling for fear, delivered up into the hands of the Grand Seignor. The Pilgrim was called, and presently knew his bag, and his Jewels; and the Doctor, by an open confusion, acknowledged his crime, and perfidiousness. The next day, the Emperor ordered the Divan to be Assembled, at which he commanded that all the Grandees about Constantinople should be present, to render the Judgement the more solemn. He first commanded, that whatever belonged to the Pilgrim should be restored to him, together with some additional recompense: and his next command was, That the Doctor should be punished, according to his own Sentence. To that end, order was given, that a stone should be made hollow, after the form of a Mortar, into which he was thrown stark naked, and pounded alive by the common Executioners. And that is the same Stone-Mortar, which I have often seen near the Gate of the Divan, and is left there, for a Memorial of so admirable and so solemn a Judgement. And this was the period of a History, whereof all the circumstances are remarkable, and which is not one of the least Monuments of the Wisdom of the Emperor Amurat. That Prince, instead of using his absolute power at the first overture of such an Affair, thought it fit, by a perspicacity of mind and prudence, patiently to expect remote occasions, that he might thence deduce evident proofs of a concealed crime: and his intention was to raise the Doctor to great dignities if he had found him innocent; and to punish him severely, as he did, upon the discovery of his guilt. I told you at the beginning of this Chapter, that of the four days of the Week, appointed At what time, how, the Grand Seignor rids out of the way, those, whom he suspects. for the sitting of the Divan, those which are answerable to our Sunday and Tuesday are the principal, as being those on which the Affairs of greatest importance are debated. They call those two days Arzghiunz, in regard, that after the Grand Vizir, the six other Viziers, and the two Cadilesquers, who assist at the Divan, have administered Justice, they go all together to kiss the Grand Seignor's hands. If any one of those Nine Judges have aught to say to him, he is permitted, on those days, to speak to him freely: and it is ordinarily upon those days also, that the Grand Seignor takes his time, if he has a mind to take off any one. He than order the Bostangi-Bachi to be ready, with some of those who attend him, to execute his will; and having declared to him who they are, whom he would have strangled, the order is no sooner given, but that either at their arrival, or at their departure, it is punctually obeyed. True it is, that he does not demean himself so, but when he is afraid of some popular sedition, in case he should send to punish them in their own Houses, where they might make some resistance. But within the Seraglio, and in sight of the Janissaries, who are in their stations near the Divan, the unfortunate Person, whom they would have to be strangled, has no more to do then to bow down his Head, and to stretch out his Neck, without thinking of any resistance, which would be to no purpose. In the Eleventh Chapter, I shall give an account at large, how they proceed to that execution. A little beyond the Hall of the Divan, you come to another Hall, raised up after the The days on which Ambassadors come to the Divan. manner of a Balcony, where the Ambassadors are seated, when they assist at the Divan, and that they do, once in three months, and upon the days, that the Janissaries receive their pay. There is notice sent them to be there, out of a vain ostentation, that they may see, what abundance of money goes out of the Treasury. Between these two Halls there is a Gate, which leads to the Quarter of the Baltagis. Those are a sort of strong and robust People, employed, as I told you, in carrying of Wood all about the Seraglio, and other mean and painful Offices. As to the wood, which is burnt in the Apartments of the Women, they disburden themselves of it at the door, where the Negro-eunuches take it up, and carry it into the Baths and other rooms, into which they only are permitted to go. And this is all that's considerable in that second Court. Let us now enter further into the Seraglio, and see how things are managed there. CHAP. V Of the inner part of the Seraglio, in general, and particularly, of the Quarter of the Eunuches, and the Ichoglans. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The Ichoglans educated under a severe Discipline. The great Officers of the Port taken out of the same School. The miserable condition of the Children of the Bassa's. The great Authority of the Capi-Aga. The Classes, through which the young Lads of the Seraglio are to pass. The Quarters of the four principal Eunuches. THE inner Seraglio is that part of the great Palace of the Ottoman Emperors, which, from the Second Court, whereof we have given a description, extends to the point, at which place the Gardens are terminated, and which comprehends, in general, the Grand Seignors Quarter, and the Quarter of the Sultanesses. But in regard the former is distinguished into several Apartments, appointed for the Habitations of the Officers, who ordinarily approach the Grand Seignor's Person, and are his most necessary attendants, I will conduct the Reader from one to another, and give a distinct relation of every one of them. In this Chapter, I shall treat only of those Apartments which are taken up by the Eunuches; and the Ichoglans, who are under their Discipline. At the beginning of this Discourse, I made mention of the four principal Eunuches, who have others substitute to them, to observe the actions of those young Lads, who The Ichoglans kept under a severe discipline. are committed to their charge, and to instruct them, as well in the Mahometan Religion, as in the Exercises of the Body, and particularly, as to what relates to the Grand Seignor's Service. The Quarter, as well of the Eunuches, as the Ichoglans stands next to the Divan-Hall, and gins to make part of the third Court, all along which it reaches on the left hand. It is divided into several Apartments, and among others, there are four, which they call Odas, that is to say Chambers, into which are distributed six hundred Ichoglans, according to the orders of the Capi-Aga; who, with the other principal Eunuches, judges of every one's capacity. 'Tis the Capi-Aga also, who order their passing out of one Oda into another, as we remove our Scholars from a sixth form to a fifth; and the case is the same in their Odas as in our Forms, or Classes, this first of the four Odas, the severities whereof they must weather out as well as they can, being the last in point of dignity. When he makes his general Visitation, upon which follows the foresaid promotion, he turns out of the Seraglio, all those whom he thinks uncapable of doing their Prince good Service, and that such as betray their disgust of so austere a life; and then they are put out of all hopes of ever entering into the Seraglio any more, and cannot pretend to any other Fortune, then that of Spahis, with a small pay. The advantage of capacitating themselves for the most eminent Charges of the Court and the Empire, makes those who remain behind to take the greater courage, and accordingly they patiently suffer, for the space of many years, the harsh and unmerciful treatments of the Eunuches, whom, upon all occasions, they always find very liberal of the Bastinado. They are those Ichoglans, whom we may also call the Grand Seignor's Pages, who are advanced to the dignity of Bassa's, Beys, Capigibachis, Haznadar-Bachis, and the other great Offices of the Port. But they are particularly culled out of the number of the Tributary Children, who are taken away from the Christians, or taken in War, by The wretched condition of the Bassa's Children. Sea or Land. For, as to the Beiczades, or Children of Bassa's, whom they bring up in the Seraglio, you are to remember what I have already said, that they can never ascend higher, than to the Charges of Beys, or Captains of Galleys. When any one of these Ichoglans is desirous to remove out of the Seraglio, or if any one of the white Eunuches has the same desire, he presents a Petition to the Capi-Aga, who carries it to the Grand Seignor, he receives his dismission, and is allowed a certain Pay, proportionably to the continuance and quality of his Services. But there are others, whom the same Capi-Aga turns out of the Seraglio against their wills, and that after they had weathered out the first years, which are the most insupportable. And that is done sometimes upon this score, that the Capi-Aga having had some contest with any one of those Ichoglans, while they were Comrades in the time of their youth, and fearing lest he should come one day to traverse his designs, he employs all his credit and interest, to remove him out of the Seraglio, but withal procuring him a Recompense and Salary, according to the number of years he has served. The first of the four Chambers, into which the Ichoglans are distributed, has the greatest number of them, because they are yet very young, and as it were Novices, The Classes through which the Lads brought into the Seraglio are to pass. under the first Perula: and it is called the Couchouk-Oda, that is to say, the little Chamber, though it be the largest of them all, in regard it is the lowest in point of Dignity. There they are taught to read and write, and are initiated in the first grounds of the Mahometan Law. And after they have spent six years in that Chamber, they are removed into the second, which they call Quilar-Oda, wherein being grown more robust, they are instructed in the Exercises of the Body, in shooting with the Bow, using the Lance and other divertisements of that kind. They are more perfected in the speaking of the Turkish Language, whereto they also add the Arabian, and the Persian, which they shall have occasion to use, in the Governments whereto they may be sent. There are four years spent in this second Chamber, out of which they are again removed into the third, which they call Chasnadar-Oda, or the Chamber of the Treasury. In this Chamber, they begin to do the Grand Seignor some service, and to be employed in the Wardrobe, and the Baths, and there they are also taught to ride, and to perfect themselves in the Exercises suitable to that Station, wherein they ordinarily spend four years. Each of these three forementioned Chambers has a white Eunuch for its chief Overseer. The Seraï-Agasi has the direction of the first; the Quilargi-bachi Commands in the second; and the Chasnadar-bachi is the Governor of the third. I shall have occasion to speak more at large of the two last, when I come to the Chapters of the Cupbearers Office, and the Treasury; and therefore I shall only add here, concerning all the three in general, That the Ichoglans, who are instructed therein, have not any commerce with those of the fourth Chamber, of whom I shall give an account by and by, nor with any other person out of the Seraglio, or in the other Courts, but with the particular permission of the Capi-Aga, and in the presence of an Eunuch, who hears all that is said: That they cannot converse amongst themselves, but at certain regulated hours; and that conversation must be managed with a great observance of Modesty, as there is an exact Obedience remarkable in all their deportments: And lastly, that they are all clad in ordinary Cloth, even to the Beiczadés; that is, the Sons of Viziers and Bassa's who are dead, while those of the fourth Chamber wear Cloth of Gold and Silver, because they come into the Grand Seignor's presence, and often approach his person. I shall give you an account anon of their Dormitories, that is the places where they take their repose, as also of the Functions of the Odabachi and the Deflergi-Aga, who act according to the Orders they receive from the four Eunuches. The fourth Chamber, which is the Prince's Chamber, is called Hazoda, and I shall speak of it, when I come to treat of the Cupbearers Office, and the Grand Seignor's secret Apartment. Here, the Ichoglans, who have endured hardship so many years in the three first Chambers, begin to take breath, and to be allowed more liberty. They are permitted to converse with all Persons within the Seraglio, and they have the advantage of frequent approaches to the Prince's Person, to whom they make themselves known, and from whom they ever and anon receive favours. Under the Gate of the third Court, where a certain number of Eunuches are upon The Quarters of the Four principal Eunuches. the Guard night and day, there is a passage on the left hand which leads into a little Gallery, out of which there is an entrance into the Apartment of the Capou-Agasi; and when the great Gate is open, it hides that passage, into which a man cannot enter but with some difficulty. A little further, and on the right hand of the Hall of the Audience, stands the Apartment of the Seraï-Agasi, who is to take care for the keeping of the Seraglio clean and in good order; and a little farther yet, near a little Mosquey, where the Ichoglans of the three first Chambers go to their Devotions, lies the Quarter of the Seferlis, who are an hundred and fifty of the Ichoglans, or thereabouts, particularly appointed for the washing of the Grand Seignor's Linen. When he goes into the Country, the most ancient among them are of his Retinue; and there must be comprehended in that number, such as play on Timbrels, and the other Instrumental Musicians, who have the same appointments with the rest. Let us now enter into the Hall of Audience, which is a Quarter as 'twere independent from others, and where the Grand Seignor receives Foreign Ambassadors. CHAP. VI Of the Hall wherein the Grand Seignor gives Audience to Foreign Ambassadors, and the manner how they are received. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The description of the Hall of Audience. The Grand Seignor's Throne. The manner how Ambassadors are received. Remarks upon the number of Vestments which the Grand Seignor orders to be bestowed on the Ambassadors of Christian Princes. The form of the Oath of Allegiance, which the Cham of the Lesser Tartary comes to take at the same place. THe Third Court of the Seraglio, wherein we now are, is far from being The Hall of Audience described. so regular, as the precedent, and the Structures within sufficiently discover, that the persons, by whom it was built, minded not the observance of any Order in the doing of it. When you are at the Gate of this Court, you have just opposite to you a little Apartment, not adjoining to the others, at the entrance of which you find, on both sides, a Fountain issuing out of Wall, the Water whereof is received into two Basins or Cisterns: And 'tis in this Apartment that the Hall of Audience stands. 'Tis an arched Structure noble enough in its kind, sustained by Marble Pillars, and there is yet to be seen in the midst of it, a small spout of Water, which falls into a Basin. This Hall is open of all sides, and at the lower end, opposite to the Gate, they place the Grand Seignor's Throne. This Throne, which is rich enough, is in the manner of an Altar, and it is brought The Grand Seignor's Throne. into that Hall only upon those days, whereon the Grand Seignor is willing to give Audience to Ambassadors, and when the new Cham of the Lesser Tartary, whom he has chosen to govern there, comes to receive the Investitute of his Kingdom, and to take the accustomed Oath. The backside of the Throne, is set against a partition erected for that purpose, which is not above half a foot higher than it, and 'tis that keeps in the cushions which are behind the Grand Seignor. There are in the Treasury-Chamber eight several very sumptuous Cover purposely made to cover the aforesaid Throne: and they are so large, that they reach down to the ground on three sides of it, that is to say, before, on the right hand, and on the left: for as to the backpart, it is, as I told you, fastened to the partition. The most Magnificent of all those Cover is of a black Velvet, with an. Embroidery of great Pearls, whereof some are long, and others round, and in the form of Buttons. There is another of white Velvet, set out with an Embroidery of Rubies and Emeralds, most whereof are set in Beazils, or Collets, the better to keep them in. There is a third, of a Violet-coloured Velvet, embroidered with Turquoises and Pearls. The three others, which are next in esteem to these, are also of Velvets of different Colours, with a rich Embroidery of Gold. And the two last are of a Gold-Brokado, which have also their particular Beauty and sumptuousness. The Throne is adorned with one of these converings, according to the Grand Seignor's respect to the Sovereign, whose Embassy he receives; and he levels his own Magnificence to that of the Prince whom he would honour. And this is the manner, how Ambassadors are received into that Hall. For, as to The manner of receiving the Ambassadors. the Order, and Ceremonies of their march from the Hôtel, or great House of Pera, to the Port of Constantinople, and from the Port, to the Seraglio, no question but there have been Relations enough made already. After the Ambassador has dined in the Hall of the Divan, with the Grand- Vizir, who there expected him, while his Retinue are entertained under the Gallery, upon some old Carpets of Leather, which they spread upon the ground, and upon which there are a few Dishes of Meat set, he receives the Vests or Garments, which the Grand Seignor sends him, as well for his own Person, as for those who accompany him, and they put them on immediately, over all the clothes they have about them, as they would do a Morning-Gown. In this Equipage the Ambassador is conducted to the Hall of Audience, by the Capi-Aga, the Grand Master of the Ceremonies, who is assisted by several Eunuches: and when he is at the Door, two Viziers stand ready to receive him, and they go on each side of him, till he comes to the place, where he is to bow, and to kiss the Grand Seignor's Garment. From the very Gate of the Court, kept by the Eunuches, quite to that of the Hall, they walk all along upon Carpets of Silk; and the Floor of the Hall, though all paved with Marble, is also covered with another Carpet of Gold, the Workmanship whereof somewhat resembles that of our ordinary Straw-Mats, and much about the same thickness. The Grand Seignor demeans himself with a great deal of gravity, while he is in his Throne; and behind the little Wall or Partition, against which it is set, you see, standing in order, the Kisler-Agasi, who is a Negro-Eunuch, and chief Overseer of the Apartment of the Women; the Seligdar-Aga, who carries the Grand Seignor's Sword; the Chokadar-Aga, who carries the Royal Robe, an Officer whom in France, they call Porte-Mantean, the Riquabdar, who holds the Stirrup, when the Prince gets on Horseback; and the Hazodabachi, chief of the Chamber, which Office would be equivalent in France, to that of Grand Master of the Wardrobe. All these forementioned Officers do all deport themselves with a great appearance of modesty, having their Arms cross their Breasts: And as to the Capi-Aga, the Introductor to the Ambassadors, and Grand Master of the Seraglio, he stands in the midst of the Hall, and in the same posture of humility. On the left side of the Throne, there is a kind of a low Seat, covered with red Velvet, with a Gold-fringe, onwhich the Ambassadors go and sit down, after they have kissed the Grand Seignor's Robe, till such time as those of their Retinue, who have had Vests, the number whereof is limited, have performed the same Ceremony. In the mean time, all the Bassa's are standing, in the presence of their Prince; nay, the Cham of the Lesser Tartary is not excepted out of that Law, when he comes to do homage. All this action is performed in great silence, and the Grand Seignor making no answer at all at that time, leaves it to the Grand Vizir, to make some short Compliment, in order to the dismission of the Ambassador, who withdraws with a profound reverence, without uncovering his head, or turning his back, till he be out of the Hall. The Ministers of Christian Princes and States who ordinarily reside at the Porl, are the Ambassadors of England, France, and Venice, and the Resident of the State's General, who have all their respective Habitations in Pera. When there come thither any Ambassadors or Residents from the Emperor, or from Poland, or Muscovy, they oblige them to take up their abodes at Constantinople, that they may be the more assured of their persons. The Grand Seignor distinguishes the Quality of those Princes and States, and the Remarks on the number of Vests, which the Grand Seignor orders to be given the Ambassadors of Christian Princes. esteem he has for them, by the number of Vests which he order to be bestowed on their Ambassadors when they come to Audience. The Ambassador of Fiance has font and twenty allowed him; the Ambassador of England, sixteen; the Ambassador or Agent of Venice receives twelve, and the Dutch Ambassador as many. When Monsieur de Marcheville was Ambassador in Turkey, from his most Christian Majesty of France, I had the honour to be one of those who accompanied him to the Seraglio, where after Dinner with the Viziers, in the Divan-Hall, while his Retinue were treated under the Gallery, the Vests were brought according to the custom. The Ambassador coming to distribute them to those whom he had a mind to favour, and take along with him to the Audience, he was much surprised, to find that he had got but sixteen. He immediately sent word to the Grand Vizir, that he wanted eight Vests, and that he would not go to his Audience, till he had the full number, which they had wont to present to the Ambassadors of France. There was some contest about it, which retarded the Audience near an hour's time; but at last Monsieur de Marcheville persisting in his resolution, the Grand Vizir complied, and sent him eight other Vests. What remains of this Chapter must represent the manner, how the Cham of the The Form of the Oath of Allegiance made by the Cham of the Lesser Tartary to the Grand Seignor. Lesser Tartary comes into this Hall of Audience to take the Oath of Allegiance to the Grand Seignor. The Reader will be pleased to remember, what Observation I made at the beginning of this Work concerning the Family of that Tributary Prince, whom the Ottoman Emperors keep under the Yoke. The Cham, who is to Reign in his turn, and according to what disposal the Grand Seignor has made of the Government, presents himself before him in the Hall of Audience, and after he has kissed his Robe, retires some paces back, and stands. Then they bring in the Koran, upon a great green Velvet Cushion, without any Embroidery, at the four Corners whereof there are four Tassels of Gold and Silk, and they place it on the Grand Seignor's right hand. Now whereas he sits on a Carpet crosslegged, there must be great care taken; that the Culhion be not so high as his knees; for the Turks would account that a great sin; and they bear so great a respect to the Book of the Koran, that they cannot touch it, till they have first washed themselves. Before they open it, they kiss it, and put it upon their heads, and after they have read something in it, they kiss the writing of it, and then they rub their faces with it, before they shut it. The Prince, who is to take his Oath, is standing all this time, as I told you, with his hands stretched out one against the other, and lifted up as high as his shoulders, to receive the Book of the Koran out of those of the Capi-Aga, who had been to take it off the Cushion, having kissed it, and touched his head with it. The Oath which the Cham takes is in these Words: Bou quittab hak juchun-seadetlu, padichaim, taré fin den her né Emir, ué ferman ' bana keleurse itaat ideym. That is say, By the Truth of this Book, I will cause to be executed all the Orders and Commands which shall be brought unto me from my Lord. And now that I have given you the Oath of Allegiance made by the Vassal to his Lord, I shall here also add the Form of that, which the Ottoman Emperor requires of all the Christian Princes, who are subject to his Jurisdiction, such as are the Princes of Moldavia and Walachia. It runs in these words: Hi isa hac Juchum, seadetlu padichaïm taré fin den her né Emir, ué ferman bana keleur se itaat Ideym. That is to say, By the Truth of Jesus Christ, I will cause to be executed all the Orders and Commands, which shall be brought unto me from the Emperor, My Lord. The Grand Seignor requires also an Oath of Allegiance of all the Bassa's, whom he sends to the Frontiers of the Empire, as the Bassa's of Grand Cairo, Babylon, and Buda, which is more than he exacts of the other Governors of Provinces, which are not upon the Confines of his Territories, and of whom he has no ground to be afraid. Let us now make our Entrance into the Quarter of the Eunuches and the Ichoglans, whereof the Baths make a great part. CHAP. VII. Of the Baths of the Seraglio. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The prodigious strength of Body of a certain Ichoglan. The Mosquey belonging to the Apartment of the Eunuches. The Employments of the Dwarves, and the Mutes. The superstition of the Turks in the manner of paring their nails. The Colours forbidden the Christians in whatever they wear about their heads. The Description of the Baths. Certain abuses reformed. Why the Inhabitants of the Eastern Parts do not make use of Paper upon an undecent account. The Persians more scrupulous than the Turks. They are great lovers of cleanliness. Certain Chambers very commodious and divertive. The strict prohibition of Mahomet for any one to suffer himself to be seen stark naked. A certain Earth which takes off the hair, and its dangerous effects. THE Baths designed for the Grand Seignor's own Person, and his principal Officers, take up a great space of the Quarter of the Eunuches. The little Ovens, whereby they are heated, called Kulkans, are adjoining to the Apartment of the Saraï-houdasi, and fifteen Ichoglans, the most robust that can be found, are employed in keeping the fire going. They have the denomination of Kulkangis; and Five and twenty others, who are named Dellaks, are employed in the Baths, to shave and rub the Body, as also in applying Cupping-Glasses to those who stand in need thereof. Among the Kulkangis, he who is the most ancient in that employment has a pre-eminence and superiority over the rest, whom he many times commands to exercise themselves in wrestling, and lifting a heavy Iron Bar with one hand. There are three such Bars fastened upon great Cramp-Irons over the door that goes The prodigious strength of Body of a certain Ichoglan. into the Baths, and the middlemost of the three, as it is commonly reported, weighs a hundred Okkas, which amount to Three hundred and fifty pounds, Paris weight, an Okka weighing three pounds and a half, or thereabouts. There was heretofore one of those Ichoglans, of so prodigious strength, that the Grand Seignor himself would have the satisfaction of seeing a trial, whether he could with one hand lift up and turn about that Iron-bar; which he did to the great astonishment of the Prince, and presently after he entertained him with another demonstration of the strength of his Arm. Over those three Iron-bars, there hung two Headpieces of Iron, whereof one was an inch in thickness, and the other about the eighth part of an inch. The same Ichoglan did, in the Grand Seignor's presence, at one blow of a Battle-Axe, cut through the head-piece of an inch thick, and, at one blow with a Sabre, cloven the other to the middle of it. Opposite to those Ovens are the Cocks, whereby the Waters are distributed into the The Mosquey belonging to the Apartment of the Eunuches. several Rooms of the Baths; and I forgot to tell you, That before you enter into that place, you find a little Mosquey, adjoining to the Apartment of the Saraiket-houdasi, where all the Ichoglans go to their devotions twice a day. If they fail the doing of it, the Odabachi, who, in every Chamber, takes notice of their demeanours, calls them to an account, and they are sure of the bastinado, as they are also for any other fault they commit; and sometimes they receive the said punishment on the soles of their feet, and, upon some occasions to such a number of blows, that the nails of their toes come off; and that is the punishment which is properly called Drubbing. Out of that Mosquey you pass into a Gallery, adjoining to the Baths, and there the The Employment of the Dwarves and Mutes. Dislis and the Geuges; that is to say, the Mutes and the Dwarves are employed in some work or other all day long. Some spend the time in learning to make up Turbans, wherein there is more work and difficulty than is imagined, especially in making up the Grand Seignior's own Turban, when he goes to the Divan. For than he takes an extraordinary large one, as do also all the Officers of the same Divan when they go to Council: and I cannot make a better representation of that kind of Turban, then by the form of our largest sort of Citrals, if they be made hollow in the middle, so as that the head might enter into that hole. Others are employed in shaving, paring the nails, and other things of that kind. They do not make use of any Scissors for the nails, in Turkey, nor in any part of Asia; it being a thing forbidden by Mahomet in his Law, and accordingly they account the doing of it a great sin. But they make use of a little Steel Instrument, somewhat like a Penknife, and the only cutting part is the end of it, and they are dextrous enough in the performance of that Office. It is the Custom all over the East, that the Barber, who trims you, should also make up your Turban, which is many times discomposed, pair the nails of your hands and toes, and take away the filth out of your Ears: For the Turks and all the Inhabitants of Asia are great lovers of cleanliness, and cannot endure the least nastiness, either on themselves, or those who come near them, as I shall give you an account anon. And having spoken so much of the Turban, it will not be unseasonable, for me to Colours forbidden the Christians in their Coissure. communicate this Remark to you here, That in the Ottoman Empire, and all over Arabia, none but Mahumetans are permitted to make use of White, for the covering of their heads; whereas in Persia, and all over the Great Mogul's Empire, men may take what Colours they please themselves. I come now to the Great Bath, which is adjoining to the Chamber of the Hamangibachi, The description of the Baths. who is the chief Overseer of it, and which makes part of the Apartment of the Seferlis, or the Grand Seignor's Laundry-men. The place where they put off their clothes is a spacious Louver, or Banqueting-house of Freestone, high enough, and in one of the most eminent parts of the Seraglio. The Floor is paved with a very delightful kind of Marble laid in square pieces; and it has two large Windows jutting out upon the Gardens, somewhat like Balconies, from which you have a Prospect of the two Seas. In the midst of that Domo or Louver, you find a Fountain, the water whereof is received into two Basins, or Cisterns: The former, which is the highest, and withal the least, is of one piece of White Marble, having in it a little intermixture of Red and Black Veins, and pierced through at six several places, for the reception of so many small Pipes of Copper, through which the water falls down into the other Basin, which is also of Marble, of several pieces, and several colours. Within the Domo, there is a great number of Poles, which are disposed all about it, Abuses reformed. and supported by certain pieces of Iron coming out of the wall. Upon those Poles they dry the Linen, which they had used in the Bath; and of that Linen there are several sorts. Heretofore, the Pages were allowed only a long piece of Linen Cloth, which came only twice about their wastes: but upon observation made, that they abused them, and that handsome young Lads playing together, snatched that piece of Linen one from the other, purposely to discover their nakedness, they use in the Baths only such Garments of Linen as are sowed close above, and reach from the waste down to the feet, much after the manner of a Woman's Petticoat. At their coming out of the Bath, they have two other sorts of Linen to dry themselves withal, of the largeness of ordinary Tableclothes, whereof the one is Red, with a bordure of Silk of three fingers breadth, which covers them, as soon as they are out of the water, from the waste downwards to the Ham; and the other is white, wherewith they rub themselves. For these two sorts of Towels they have but one name, to wit, Péchetamal. On one side of the Fountain, which is in the midst of the Domo, there is an entrance why the Levantines do not use Paper undecently. into the bath, and near that is the Hall, where they unclothe themselves in the Wintertime. A little Gallery which lies on the left hand, leads to the places designed for the casing of nature, and every seat has a little Cock, which supplies them with weter to wash themselves, after they have done. It is accounted a heinous sin among them, to make use of Paper for that purpose; and the reason they give for it is this, that, possibly, the Name of God might be written upon it, or it might contain some Text of the Law, which would be a profanation of it, and consequently aught to be avoided. Besides, they have another opinion, That Paper is not so proper so well to make clean that part, which the necessity of the Body does ordinarily so much defile, but that there may be something of ordure left; and that being obliged to present themselves before God with an absolute Purity of Body and Mind, their Prayers could not be heard, if they should not be wholly clean. The Persians are yet more scrupulous than the Turks upon this account. For though The Persians more scrupulous than the Turks. they both agree in this, That their Devotions are ineffectual, nay indeed that they are not in a condition to perform them, without crime, if they be not pure, as to Body and Mind; Yet the former are of a persuasion, That the least ordure which, through negligence or inadvertency, might remain upon their persons, or their garments, would render their Prayers fruitless and criminal, which the Turks, somewhat less superstitious as to that particular, will not acknowledge. Certain it is also, That in Persia they are extraordinary Lovers of cleanliness; insomuch They are great lovers of clean 〈…〉 that I have observed, That at Ispahan, the Metropolis of that Country, where the Streets are not paved, when there falls a little Snow or Rain, which must occasion some dirt, few people will come out of their houses, unless they be forced thereto by some Concern of great importance. And when they do go abroad at such a time, at the house door into which they are to enter, they put off their shoes, their upper-Garment, the Cap which covers their Turbans; and if they have the least dirt or filth about them, they think themselves impure, and that it would be a disrespect to the person whom they are to visit. Nay, a Persian shall be very scrupulous, and make a great difficulty to receive a man into his house in foul weather; and if any one presents himself into that pleasure, he makes a sign to him with his hand to keep at a certain distance from him, in the place wherein he is to enter into discourse with him. For if by chance, as he comes out of the Street, where there is some dirt, and where horses pass to and fro, and may cast some of it upon him, he has the least spot of any daggling about him, and afterwards touch the Person whom he comes to visit, this latter would be nagis, that is to say, unclean, and thereupon be obliged immediately to change his clothes; so great is the Superstition of the Persians, as to that particular. At the end of the Gallery, there is a door which gives you passage into three Chambers, Chambers very divertive and Commodious. which are so many Baths for the use of the Grand Seignor's Quarter. There is adjoining to the last of those Chambers a spacious place paved Checquerwise with Marble of different colours, and there the Ichoglans are trimmed. This place has a little eminency in the midst of it, from which there is a gentle descent of all sides, that the Water wherewith the Barbers wash their Heads and Beards may the more easily be carried off, and the place be always kept clean. On both sides of the Wall, whereby it is enclosed, there is a great double Cock, with two Keys belonging to it, which, at the same mouth, supplies them alternately with either hot water, or cold, and that falls into a Basin or Receptacle of White Marble, wherein three or four men may bathe themselves without any inconvenience, or trouble one to the other. There is also at one of the ends a little Room of Black and White Marble, and there the Barbers, who have no knowledge of any other Profession, put up all their necessary Utensils and Instruments, as Razors, Hones, Balls, and those Irons wherewith they pair their Nails: for as for Linen, they do not use any; and those who are to be shaved come in stark naked from the Waste upwards, and are covered from thence downwards, only with a Cloth, which reaches to the Ankle. 'Tis a great Rarity to meet with any one among those Barbers that knows how to let blood, and their Lancets are much like the Fleams, wherewith our Farriers bleed Horses. Opposite to the Chamber of the Barbers, there are three other Rooms arched with Marble, the largest whereof much surpasses in Beauty those that are adjoining to it. The Floor of it is of white and black Marble, and the Walls are done about with square pieces, that are white and blue, and in every one of them you find a Flower in embossed Work, done to the Life, and which a man would take for enamel. Little Lamines or Plates of Gold cover the junctures of those square pieces, and there cannot any thing be imagined more pleasant and divertive than that Chamber is. In the Roof of it, there are several round holes, of about half a foot diameter, over which there are little Glasses made in the fashion of Bells, ordered as the Venice-Looking-Glasses are, lest any one should have the curiosity, to get up to the Roof, and laying himself upon his belly think to see what is done in the Bath. The place has no light but what it receives by the means of those holes, and while some body is in the Bath: But especially when they go out of it, the door is shut, the better to keep in the heat, and to prevent their being seen; which might be, if instead of those forementioned holes in the Roof, there were Windows below, according to our Mode. All the other Baths have their Structures after the same manner, and having no light but what comes at little glazed holes, there is not any passage into it, but that of the door, to the end that being presently shut, the heat might the better be kept within the Bath, and to prevent their being seen who are in it. The Second Chamber is another Bath, but as to Beauty, it is much inferior to the other; And as for the third, there is something in it which is singularly remarkable. The Floor of it is laid as with a sort of small stones, so as that the foot cannot slip, though it be wetted at their departure out of the Bath: And the whole Room is done all about with square pieces, having in them flowers of embossed work, done to the Life, and covered with Gold and Azure. This is the place into which the Grand Seignor enters, when he comes out of the Bath; and he always goes into it alone, when he intends to shave himself in those parts, which are not to be named without immodesty. Mahomet pronounces a Curse upon those persons who suffer themselves to be seen, Mahomet's Prohibition to be seen naked. and upon all those who look on them: And the strict observance of his Law requires, That both Men and Women ought to shave themselves, without using the assistance of any other hand. But most of the Inhabitants of the EASTERN Parts, the Arabians, Tartars, and An Earth that takes off hair, and its dangerous Effects. the Indians, make use of a more easy expedient than the Razor, to get off hair. It is a certain Earth, which they mix with some Orpiment, or Arsenic, and which becomes soft as butter. When they are in the Bath, and begin to sweat, they take of that Earth, and therewith rub the parts, from which they would have the hair to fall, and presently after they must be very careful to see, whether it gins to fall, as one would observe a Fowl, whose feathers he would take off, after it had been cast into scalding water. For if that Earth be left too long upon the parts whereto it had been applied, it burns and makes holes in the flesh, the marks whereof will remain, somewhat resembling those, which the Small Pox sometimes leaves behind it. Besides, the skin of those parts, whereto this application is made, becomes in time as hard and rough as Leather; and those ungrateful inconveniences have diverted the Turks and Persians from using that Expedient. Nor do the Christians of the Levantine Countries make use of it, though they imitate the mahumetans in the Custom of frequenting the Baths: But above all, in Persia, none make use of that remedy, but the poorer sort of people. The Ladies, not regarding the prohibition of Mahomet, employ their Female Slaves for the performance of that Office; and with a small kind of Pincers and twitchers, such as those, wherewith we take off the hair of the moustaches, they do, with a little more trouble, but less hazard, what that Earth does in less time, but with more danger. Our Sultanesses are yet too delicate to imitate the Ladies of Persia; nay the men themselves, in Turkey, are not very forward to have that twitched off with pain, which the Razor can take off without any trouble. CHAP. VIII. Of the Grand Seignor's Treasury. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. Noble Relics of Antiquity. The Turks cannot endure Figures representing either Man or Beast. The Chambers of the Treasury, and their Wealth. The blood of the Bassa's is one of the Rivers which enter into that Sea of the Treasury. The use of Aloes Wood in Turkey. A sort of Basins of a more commodious form than ours, for the washing of the hands. Books and Candles of a kind of wax of great value. Coffers full of all sorts of precious stones. The precautions and ceremonies which are observed at the opening of the Treasury. A magnificent Piece of Tapestry, wherein the Emperor Charles the Fifth, is represented, in embossed Work. A particular Relation of a Bassa named Rustan. The heroic sentiment of a Turk. The principal sources of the Wealth of the Empire. How the Revenues of Egypt are employed. THE Treasury of the Seraglio and the Ottoman Empire, the vast Wealth therein contained, and the excellent order wherewith it is governed, required my being a little more large upon that subject. I shall discover all the Rivers, which fall into that Sea, and may have some resemblance to those that enter into the Caspian Sea, and are never seen to come out of it again. Out of the Chamber, where the Grand Seignor shaves himself, you pass into a Noble Relics of Antiquity. Gallery, which is Thirty paces in length, and between Nine and ten in breadth. There are, on the one side of it, Six great Marble-Pillars, of Fifteen foot in height, and of different colours, among which there is one of a very delightful Green, and that colour makes the Turks have a great esteem for it. You have under your feet in this Gallery a Walk of large square Pieces of Marble, and the high-raised Fretwork thereof is a Relic of Antiquity, and there are in it excellent Pieces of Painting after the Mosaic way, representing divers Persons, and which some conceive to have been made, for the reception and entertainment of some great Prince, in the time of the Greek Emperors. The Turks, who have not among them either Gravers or Painters, in order to the The Turks have an aversion for Figures representing Man or Beast. making of any representation of Man or Beast, for which they have an aversion, have thought it much to endure those Figures, and not being able to refrain from disfiguring the heads, there is nothing left but the bodies, which is much to be regretted. It may easily be conjectured, That that Gallery was open on both sides, as being so Hill to the Court-side, and 'tis in the midst of the Wall, whereby it is enclosed on the other side, that the Door of the Treasury stands. The first Treasury consists in Four Chambers full of Riches and Rarities. The first contains a vast quantity of Longbows, Arrows, Crossbows, Muskets, Firelocks, The Chambers of the Treasury and their Wealth. Sabres, Scimitars, and and other Arms of that kind, which are all so many Masterpieces, that have been presented, from time to time to the Turkish Emperors. All these Arms are either hung up at the Ceiling, or fastened against the Wall; but in a pitiful condition, all overrun with rust, and covered with dust; and the Grand Seignor suffers them to be so neglected, because there come in daily Presents of Arms excellently wrought, the novelty whereof makes him forget the old ones; as also for that it is the humour of the Turks, not to make any great account of Curiosities, but at the very time they are presented with them. The Second Chamber is a very spacious Arched Structure, of the same height and architecture as that of the Bath, of which I gave you an account in the precedent Chapter, where they go and unclothe themselves in the Summer time: And there is no difference between them, save only that this last has no overtures in the Roof. That place contains Six great Chests, or Coffers, each of them of Twelve foot in length, six in breadth, and six in depth; and if the Covers were not broken to pieces, two men would find it a hard matter to lift them, they are so weighty. These Coffers, which are called Ambars, are full of all sorts of clothes for the Grand Seignor's use, as Vests, rich Furs, Magnificent Turbans, and Cushions embroidered with Pearls. Besides the Six Coffers before mentioned, there are Eight others, which are but eight foot in length, and four in breadth; and these are filled with Pieces of Scarlet, English and Dutch clothes, of the finest sorts, Pieces of Velvet, Gold and Silver-brocadoes, Embroidered Coverlets and Counterpanes for Beds, and other Rich Commodities of that nature. As for the Bridles and Saddles covered with Precious Stones, they are disposed upon supporters of Wood or Iron, coming out of the Wall: and all this Chamber is generally very well kept, and all things are neat, and in good order. The Third Chamber is very spacious, and is more like a great Hall. The first thing that entertains your Eye, is a great Coffer, the inside whereof is divided into three parts, and makes as it were three other Coffers, one upon the other: but they are opened all on the outside, so as that if there be any thing looked for in the undermost, there is no necessity of stirring the uppermost. The lowermost Coffer contains those sumptuous Cover for the Grand Seignor's Throne, of which I have spoken in the Description of the Hall of Audience. In the middlemost are disposed the Horses, and Trappings, enriched with Embroidery, and some of them with Pearls and Precious Stones, which are used in great Solemnities. In the uppermost Coffer, are kept the Bridles, Breast-Pieces, Cruppers, and Stirrups, which are recommendable upon the score of the Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, and other Precious Stones, whereby they are enriched: but the greatest part of them is covered with Turkish-Stones, which they have the art of setting excellently well. It is a most astonishing sight, to behold the quantity of those precious Harnesses: The Blood of the Bassa's one of the Rivers that fall into the Sea of the Treasury. but it is such only to those, who are ignorant, how the Grand Seignor replenishes his Treasury with so much Wealth. It happens thus, That there being a frequent mortality amongst the Bassa's, and others, who are Governors of Provinces, whether it be by a natural death, or a violent, and all they have in the World falling to the Grand Seignor, as I told you elsewhere, and being brought into the Seraglio, there are ordinarily found, amongst their rich Harnesses, some Bridles covered with precious Stones, and those Bridles are brought into the Treasury. The Case is the same with the Gold and Silver ready coined, and all the Jewels, and whatever else those Bassa's were possessed of. But as to their Saddles, which ordinarily, are covered with Plates of Gold of the thickness of a Ducat, they are put into the hands of the Imbrohor-bachi, who is the Master of the Horse, and come not within the Seraglio. There are besides, in the very same Chamber, several other Coffers, of different Bulks, wherein there is contained abundance of most precious things. Some of them are full of rich Swords, adorned with precious Stones, as also of Sabres, which have the same Ornaments. For the Turks, when they are on Horseback, make use of both Sabres and Swords, of a good length, and somewhat broader than ours. They wear the Sabre on one side, and fasten the Sword, all along by the Saddle, as they also do the Battle-Axe, yet so as that this last passes under their Thighs, which cannot incommodate them much, because, when they are mounted, they ride with very short Stirrups. The Sides, and the Handles of the Battleaxes which they carry in Triumph, are also covered with precious Stones; and in all their Accoutrements, the Turks are Magnificent, and do not spare for Money. When the Grand Seignor designs to honour a Bassa, he sends him one of those Swords, or one of those Sabres, with a Vest of Gold-Brockado, lined with some rich Fur. But these sumptuous Pieces do but pass to and fro, in as much as that upon the death of the Bassa's, whose Estates fall to the Grand Seignor, and consequently are brought into the Seraglio, they are still found again in the Treasury, as in their Centre. There are yet other Coffers filled with Ambergris, Musk, the precious Wood called The use of Aloes wood used in Turkey. Lignum Aloes, and Sandalwood. There is a certain sort of this Lignum Aloes, which is worth a thousand Crowns the pound, according as it is fat, or Oily, the most Oily being always the best, and the Turks are very expensive in this Aloes Wood When some persons come to visit them, and assoon as they are sat down, it is their custom to present them with a Pipe of Tobacco, with some Lignum Aloes in it, which is done after this manner. They take of that Wood, according to the oiliness of it, and consequently its making a greater fumigation, the quantity of a Pea, or a small Bean, and after they have moistened it a little, they put it over a few Coals in a Chafing-dish, in a kind of Perfuming-pot, which they present, one after another, to all the Company. There comes out a thick Steam, or Exhalation, wherewith every one perfumes his Head, and his Beard, and sometimes the inside of his Turban, after which he lifts up his hands on high, crying Elmendela, that is to say, Thanks be to God. But before they present them with the Perfuming-pot, there is some Rose-water brought in a Vessel of Gold, or Silver, according to the Quality of those who make the Visit. This Vessel is commonly a foot in height, the lower part of it being about the bigness of a man's fist, and from thence growing gradually smaller and smaller to the top of it, which is about the bigness of ones little finger. At the top of it there is a little hole, out of which comes the Rose-water, wherewith they wash their hands and faces, and then hold them over the suffumigation of the Lignum Aloes, which not only dries up the water, but also sticks so much the closer to the hair of the Head and Beard. There are also in those Coffers abundance of Aromatical Simples, and precious Drugs, Bezoar-stones, and stores of Mastic, wherewith the Sultanesses, and the young Maids of the Seraglio pass away their time. They have of it perpetually in their Mouths, and this Mastic sweetens the Breath, and cleanses the Teeth, upon which score they are the better beloved. There may be seen also in the same Chamber, and in other Coffers, abundance of Plate, both Gold and Silver, which is never used, the Grand Seignor having other pieces, for his ordinary use, in the Kilar, whatever is served up to his own Table being altogether in Porcelain. There are, amongst other Pieces, several Basins and Ewers, whereof some are enriched Basins of a more commodious fashion than ours. with several sorts of precious Stones. Those Basins are of a fashion more commodious than that of ours, and it is an evident Mark of the cleanliness of the Levantines. They are round, and about half a foot in depth, and covered as it were with a Plate or Server, full of little holes, which makes the concavity of it of equal height with the sides, and so hides the dirtiness of the water which lies at the bottom of it. They do not rise after their refection, in Turkey, till they have washed their Mouths and their Hands, to do which they bring you Soap and warm Water; and amongst Persons of Quality, they present Rose-water, or some other sweet Water, into which you put the corner of your Handkerchief. They have also in those Coffers great Tapers, or Wax-Candles of above two foot Tapers of a kind of Wax of great value. in length, made of a certain very dear composition, of a greyish colour, which has some resemblance to Wax, and is brought out of Ethiopia, every Taper amounting to near a hundred Crowns. They are not used but only when the Grand Seignor goes to visit the Sultanesses, and then there are two of those Tapers lighted, and set in great golden Candlesticks, enriched with precious Stones. When they are a little above half burnt out, the Negro-eunuches, who serve in the Haran, light others, and, out of civility, make a Present of the forementioned remainders to the principal Women attending on the Sultanesses. There is moreover in one of those Coffers, abundance of Clocks and Watches, German-work, as also of Knives and Ink-horns, after the Turkish Mode, all those pieces being the choice Productions and Masterpieces of great Artists, and adorned with precious Stones. There is to seen, in fine, all along the Walls, but covered with a Scarlet Stuff, several Arms, after the Turkish-Mode, neatly kept in order, as Bows, Arrows, Targets, Battleaxes, excellently well wrought, and most of these Pieces are of a considerable value. But what is most precious in that Chamber and transcends all the rest, is a strong Coffer all of Ironwork, which contains another, of about a foot and a half square, An inestimable Coffer of all sorts of precious Stones. wherein there is a vast Treasure. When this Goffer is opened, you see a kind of Goldsmith's Jewel Box, wherein are ranked all sorts of Jewels of highest value, as Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, a huge number of excellent Topazes, and four of those Gems, called Cats-eyes, which are so beautiful, that they are not to be valued. Having satisfied your curiosity with the former, you come next to certain little Drawers full of several Jewels, great Roses of Diamonds, Pendants, other Roses of Rubies and Emeralds, Strings and Chains of Pearls and Bracelets. There stands aside by itself a Cabinet, where are the Sorgouges, or the things wherein are fastened the Heron-tops, which the Grand Seignor wears in his Turban. They are as it were little handles, made in the fashion of Tulips, covered over with the most precious Stones of the Seraglio, and 'tis into this that the Heron-top enters, that rich Plume of Feathers, whereof I have elsewhere given the description. Of these Handles, some are higher and more precious than others; and my Overseer of the Treasury assured me, That, of all sorts of them, great and small, there are above a hundred and fifty. The lesser ones serve only for the Campagne, and the great ones, which are the richest, are reserved for the Pomps and Magnificences of the Court, and when the Grand Seignor marches in Ceremony to Constantinople. If he has a desire to satisfy his sight with the lustre of his precious Jewels, he Order the Coffer to be brought into his own Chamber; but if he calls for some particular Piece of the Treasury, he gives order to the Chasnadar-bachi, to fetch it, and that Chief Officer of the Treasury cannot enter into it, without abundance of mysterious precautions. There are always Sixty Pages, more or less, belonging to the Chambers of the Treasury. The number of them is not fixed, but the Credit of the Capi-Aga, and the Precautions and Ceremonies observed at the opening of the Treasury. Chasnadar-bachi, may augment or diminish it, according to their inclinations and interests. Unless they fall into disgrace, as he had done from whom I have some part of these Instructions, they never go out of the Seraglio, but upon their advancement to some considerable Government, or the settlement of a handsome Pension for their maintenance; and so, provided they do nothing amiss, they are well enough accommodated for their lives. The Chief Officer of the Treasury having received Orders from the Grand Seignor to bring the Piece he would have, assembles all the Pages in their Chamber, and sends for the Anakdar-Agasi, who has the Custody of the Keys. This last having given three strokes with his hand upon the Drawer, wherein they are enclosed, takes them out of it, and following the Chasnadar-Bachi, attended by the Sixty Pages, they all make their appearance together at the door of the Treasury. The first thing that is done is the untwisting of a Chain, which they had put there, for the better securing of the Seal, which the Chief Officer of the Treasury had set over the hole, and having found it entire, he order it to be broken by the keeper of the Keys, and commands him to open. Assoon as they are got into the Chamber into which the Chasnadar-bachi knows they are to go, he sets himself down upon a low Bench, and declares what Piece it is that the Grand Seignor requires. They thereupon open the Coffer, wherein it ought to be, than they present it to the Chasnadar-bachi, and, if he be desirous of that honour, he has the privilege to be himself the Bearer of it to the Grand Seignor. Then has he a fair Opportunity to secure something that is precious to himself, if he has the dexterity to do it without any discovery. When he is in the Treasury, he needs only say, That the Grand Seignor desires also the Piece, which he has a mind to convert to his own use, and causing all to be immediately carried to his own Chamber, he there leaves what he would keep, and presents to the Prince only that which he had commanded to be brought him. Not but that whatever is received into the Treasury, and whatever goes out of it, is exactly set down and enroled by the Haznaquatib, or Clerk, who keeps the Registers; and the Cheat might be easily discovered, when at the quitting of his Charge the Chasnadar-bachi gives an account of all things to his successor. But it ordinarily happens, that they are friends, and that the Chasnadar-bachi, who does not leave his Charge, but upon his advancement to that of the place of the Capi-Aga, in case he should die, or be exalted to a higher Dignity; or upon his being made a Bassa and Governor of a Province, proposes him, among the Pages, for whom he has the greatest affection, and who is his Confident, as a Person qualified for the Charge of Principal Officer of the Treasury. Accordingly, being his Benefactor, he gives in his Accounts as he pleases himself, and delivering unto him an Inventory of what is in the Treasury, he withal produces a Memorandum of the Pieces, which had been taken out thence, during his Surintendency, by the Grand Seignor's Orders. The Clerk of the Treasury, might, notwithstanding their intelligence and combination, discover the intrigue; but being one of the eldest Pages of the Chamber, and in a capacity of advancement to the Charge of Chasnadar-bachi, he shuts his eyes, and so avoids the creation of Enemies, thinking it more prudence, to be appeased, by the Presents he receives as well from him who enters into the Charge, as from him who quits it. But these Thieveries are not very often committed, and if there were but the least discovery made thereof, a severe punishment would soon be inflicted both on the Author of them, and his Complices. As to the little Chest or Coffer, wherein the most precious Jewels are kept, it is impossible to get any thing out thence: for when the Grand Seignor would have any Piece taken out of it, he order the Coffer itself to be brought into his Presence, by the principal Officer of the Treasury, accompanied by the Keeper of the Keys, and all the Pages; and before he opens it, he takes notice whether the Seal be entire. After he has taken what he desired, the Coffer is locked up in his Presence, the Seal is set upon it, and it is carried back into the Treasury with the same Ceremony. Then do the Sixty Pages receive, ordinarily, some demonstrations of the Grand Seignor's Liberality, which may amount to ten or twelve Purses, to be divided amongst them. We are not yet got out of the third Chamber of the Treasury, which may pass for Rich Tapestry, wherein Charles the Fifth is represented. one Spacious Hall, the middle part whereof is taken up by a Scaffold, of nine or ten foot square, the height, the length, and the breadth being equal. This Scaffold is covered and surrounded with a piece of Tapestry of Gold and Silk, and, in the upper part of it, there is, in embossed Work, the Effigies of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, seated on a Throne, having in one hand, a Globe, and in the other, a Sword, surrounded by all the Grandees of the Empire, doing him homage. At the bottom of the said Piece of Tapestry, there may be read certain Verses in Gothick characters: And the upper part of the Scaffold is full of Books in the Latin, French, Italian, high German, English, and other European Languages. There are also some Treatises upon the subject of Navigation, together with two Globes, the Celestial, and the Terrestrial, and some Geographical Maps drawn upon Velom: whence it may be conjectured, that they were all taken at Sea, by some Turkish Pirate, and sent as a Present to the Grand Seignor. But not being carefully looked after, the dust has quite spoiled both the Tapestry, and the Books, and so they remain there as a Monument of some Victory gained over the Christians. The Fourth Chamber of the Treasury is very dark, and has no other light than A remarkable Story of the Bass a Rustan. what it receives from a little Garret-Window, which looks into the Court, and has three strong Iron-bars, one over the other. Over the Door, there are these words engraved, in the Turkish Language; Money acquired by the diligence of Rustan. Take here an account of what occasions this Monument, which they were pleased to erect, to perpetuate the memory of a Grand Vizir, as I have been told it, by several Persons in Constantinople. He was the Son of a Cowkeeper, and had followed the same Employment himself: but he had a Genius that might become a Person of the highest Extraction, and which raised him to the Charge of Grand Vizir, and the honour of being Son-in-law to Solyman. He had many traverses of fortune, and was for some time out of Favour: but in fine, Solyman, who had great Affairs to manage, and was engaged in a War with Persia, coming to a little indigency of Money, sent for Rustan, and bestowed on him the Superintendency of his Revenues. He knew him to be a man of great Abilities, and capable of putting them, in a short time, into a good posture; and accordingly his pains and diligence in the management thereof proved so successful, that he presently filled Solyman's Coffers, and re-established the Affairs of the Empire. Upon which occasion I shall here set down a thing which is still fresh in the remembrance of many Turks, who received it from their Fathers. The Turks have so great a The Heroic Sentiment of a Turk. zeal for the welfare of the State, that one of the Grandees of the Port, an Enemy of Rustans, and one, who, upon other occasions, would gladly have ruined him, protested to one of his Confidents, That, though it were in his power to do him an ill turn, yet he would not do it then, because he had, by his Industry and Labours, upheld the State, which he retrieved from the Precipice of destruction, and was in a fair way to make a considerable augmentation of its Revenues. This generous and heroic Sentiment in the Soul of a Turk, who at his first rise was but a simple Slave, would meet with but few Examples amongst Christians. But, to reassume our discourse concerning the Fourth Chamber of the Treasury. It is full of Chests of two foot in length, and a breadth and depth proportionable thereto, fortified with plates of Iron, and made fast, each of them, with two Chains. The number of them is not always the same, because the Money is coming in, and going out of that Chamber, and the Coffers are transported thence according to the occurrent exigencies, for the payment of the Janissaries, and the maintenance of the Armies. All the Gold and Silver which is brought into the Treasury rises out of the Revenues of the Empire, and out of the Sale of what Goods the Bassa's leave at their departure The principal Sources of the Wealth of the Empire. out of this World. As to what is raised out of the Empire, which dilates itself so far into the three parts of our great Continent, and comprehends so many Kingdoms, it may be easily imagined, that it must supply the Treasury with vast Sums; but it is not so easy to ascertain them. Its Revenues consist principally in the collection of the Tributes, and in the Customs: and the three Tefterdars, or Treasurers-General, give an account to the Grand Vizir of the Receipts of the Provinces. That Principal Minister has the custody of one Key of that fourth Chamber of the Treasury, and the first Tefterdar has that of another, and besides that, it is always sealed with the Grand Seignor's Seal. It is not ordinarily opened, but upon those days, on which the Divan sits, that is, on Council-days, either for the reception of Money into it, or for the taking of any out, to defray the Charges of the Empire. What is so received into it is for the most part in Silver; and as to the Species of Gold Coins that are brought into that Chamber, they come from four Sources, two whereof are upon a Foreign account, and the other two upon that of the Country. One of the two former consists in the Commerce of the French, English, Dutch, Italians, Moscovites, and Polanders, who bring in Ducats out of those Provinces. The other is the annual Tribute, which the Cham of the Lesser Tartary, the Princes of Transylvania, Moldavia, and Walachia, the Republic of Ragusa, and part of Mingrelia and Russia, are to pay the Grand Seignor in Gold, which amounts to very great Sums. One of the two Sources of the Country proceeds from what is found upon the removal of the Bassa's, whereof the very coined Gold makes the best part; the other, from the Revenue of Egypt, where there is an annual coinage of a certain number of Sequins, according to the quantity of Gold, which is brought thither out of Ethiopia, and being coined into Sequins, is all conveyed thence into the Treasury. The Revenue of Egypt may amount yearly to twelve millions of Livers, [that is, The Revenues of Egypt how employed. about one million and two hundred thousand Pounds Sterling] which must be divided into three parts. Five millions of the twelve, are brought into the Grand Seignor's Treasury. Four millions of the foresaid Sum, are employed in the maintenance of the Officers and Soldiers of that Kingdom: And the other three are designed for the rich Present, which the Grand Seignor sends every year to Mecha, for the Expenses which relate to Religious Worship, and to fill the Cisterns of Arabia, which are supplied with Water, brought by Land, many days Journeys. Of the five Millions which are brought into the Seraglio, the greatest part is in Sequins, according to the quantity of Gold, which the Abyssines bring into Egypt, and the rest in Dutch Rixdollars. All is brought together into the Coffers of the fourth Chamber of the Public Treasury. But as to the Sequins, they are carried into the Secret Treasury, which it is time for us now to open, and give the Reader an account of, according to the description which has been made to me thereof, by two men, whom their Employments obliged to enter into it often. CHAP. IX. Of the Secret Treasury. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. A Vault under ground, into which few Persons have access. The great frugality of the Emperor Amurat. Ibrahim, his Successor, charged with evil Conduct. The Grand Seignor's precautions for the security of his Treasure. His Liberalities to the Grandees of the Port. WIthin the fourth Chamber of the Treasury, you find a door laid all A Vault under ground, into which few have access. about with good store of Iron-bars, which opens the first passage, to the place that contains the Grand Seignor's Secret Treasure. It is never opened, but when he himself has a mind to enter into it; and he does not enter into it, but when the Grand Vizir advertises him, that it is time for him to do so, and that there is a considerable Sum to be carried in. In the first place, by the light of Torches they go down a Staircase of ten or twelve steps, at the bottom of which, after an advancement of seven or eight paces further, they find a second Door, fortified with Ironwork as the former, but much less, so that a man is obliged to stoop ere he go into it. When it is opened, and that they have made their entrance through it, as if they had passed through a Wicket, they are under a great Vault, where they find a great many Coffers, of the same largeness, as those of the Chamber we came last out of. In those Coffers they have, for these many years, laid up all that was not expended The great frugality of the Emperor Amurat. upon the Public account, of the great Revenues of the Ottoman-monarches, and so it may be called his Private Exchequer, into which there is nothing but Gold has entrance, all the Silver being carried into the other Treasury, to be thence taken out again and disposed of as occasion required. After the death of Amurat, Ibrahim, his Successor in the Throne, found in that Treasury four thousand Bags, which they call Kizes, and every Bag contains fifteen thousand Ducats of Gold, which amount to thirty thousand Crowns, and those reduced to our Pounds, come to thirty Millions Sterling. 'Twas the same Amurat (a prudent and valiant Prince, a man of great Parsimony, and as great Conduct in Military Affairs, of whom I have often had occasion to make mention) who entered into a War against the King of Persia, and besieged Bagdet, or Babylon, which he took on the 22th of December, 1638. I remember, that I was then but five days Journey from that place, in the Deserts of Arabia, as having left Aleppo, in order to my going to Balsara, and that of the Threescore and five days, which the Caravan spent in that Journey, for nine of them, we were destitute of Water, which must needs press very hard, both on the Men and the Camels. Ibrahim, therefore, at his coming to the Crown, found, in the secret Treasury, that Ibrahim charged with ill management of the Treasury. prodigious quantity of Gold, whereto he could not make any augmentation; nay some, on the contrary, are of opinion, That he was forced to use some part of it, through his ill Conduct of the War of Candia. True it is, That the long continuance of that War made a great hole in the Revenues of the Empire; but there are Two great Reasons, which divert me from giving absolute credit, to such as affirm, That those Exigencies reached the Secret Treasury. For, in short, it is as 'twere a fundamental Law among them, That, before any thing is taken out thence, it is requisite, the Empire should be in imminent danger of ruin; And it is manifest, That though the Turks could not reduce Candia under their Jurisdiction, yet their Empire was so far from being near its decadence, that it still continued powerful. Besides, it is to be observed, That when the Grand Seignor loses a Battle, it is a disadvantage to his Provinces, upon the score of their being thereby depopulated, and so much the less cultivated; but that it is an advantage to his Coffers, in regard there's so much the less comes out of them. The reason of it is evident, because he pays the Veteranes, or Soldiers of long standing, seven or eight Asper's a day, and that those of the new-raised Forces do not stand him in above one and a half, or two at the most; their pay augmenting with the time, answerably to their services, and the Prince's good Pleasure. Whereto it is to be added, That when an Emperor dies, his Successor augments the pay of the Janissaries, by an Asper, or two, per diem. It must be acknowledged indeed, That there died a great number of Turks in the War of Candia: but it is certain also, That if we consider the great number of Kingdoms and Provinces, whereof the Empire consists, among which there are some very fertile, and very well peopled, it is an easy matter to raise numerous Armies, and to recruit them, when they have been weakened, by a Defeat, or by some Sickness, which often happens among them. Upon these two grounds, I cannot be induced to believe, that Ibrahim was obliged to make any diminution of the Secret Treasury: but I am very apt to believe, that he made not any great additions thereto, because he had not either the good Conduct, or good Fortune of Amurat, and ordinarily, the one avails not much without the other. All the Gold that lies interred under that Vault is in Leather-bags, every Bag containing Fifteen thousand Ducats, that is Seven thousand five hundred pounds sterling: and 'tis with his own hand that the Grand Seignor puts his Seal to them, which is the same that his Predecessors had used before him, save only the name, which must be that of the Prince then reigning. Amurat's Seal had these words graven upon it, Nasrum min allahi abdihil melekil Mourath: Which signifies, The assistance of God is upon his Servant the Emperor Amurath. And this is the manner how the Bags of Gold are brought into the Secret Treasury. All the Gold and Silver which come into the Seraglio, is first carried into the Chamber The Grand Seignor's Precautions for the security of his Treasury. of the Treasury, and each of them is disposed into the Coffers designed for them. When there is as much Gold as will amount to two hundred Kizes, the Grand Vizir giveth notice of it to the Grand Seignor, who appoints a day, for the disposal of it into the Secret Treasury. The day being come, the Grand Seignor, led under the Arm by the Chasnadar-bachi, who is on the left hand, which is accounted the more honourable amongst the Turks, and by the Seligdar-Aga, who is on the right, comes into the Chamber of the Treasury, where the Sixty Pages expect him, ranked in order on both sides, with their hands cross their Breasts. The Grand Seignor, having passed through the Chamber, and ordered the first Door of the Secret Treasury to be opened, enters into it, by the light of several Torches of white Wax, and is followed by the Pages, two by two, till they are within the Vault, into which the Bags are brought, tied with a Silk-string. Upon the string they put a piece of red soft Wax, whereto the Grand Seignor sets his Seal himself, which is upon a Gold-Ring, wherein are engraven the words beforementioned, with the name of the Prince then reigning, after which they put the Bags into the Coffers, which are all double chained. Before they come out of the Valut, the chief Officer of the Treasury, does ordinarily His Liberalities to the Grandees of the Port. make this Compliment to the Grand Seignor; Seadetlu padichaim eumijd dur quibou bendelerignus euzre ihsan cherijfgnus izhar ideses: That is to say, My Emperor, we hope, that you will make a discovery of your Liberalities to your Slaves. According to the humour the Grand Seignor is then in, he orders, That there should be a distribution of Twenty or Thirty Purses, amongst all those who have accompanied him, every Purse, as I told you before, amounting to Five hundred Crowns. The Grand Vizir, and the other Grandees of the Port, are permitted to enter into the Chambers of the Treasury, where the sumptuous Harnesses and the Precious Stones are kept, when the Grand Seignor comes thither himself; but they are not to go as far as the Secret Treasury. They stay for him in the Fourth Chamber, when he is to come out of the Vault, and then he order the Coffer of his Jewels to be opened, to show them the most precious things there are in it. And whereas there are always some Favourites attending there, as also divers other persons, whom the Prince looks upon kindly upon the score of their merit, it seldom happens, but that they all receive some Present or other from him, and he makes not any, but what is of very considerable value. The Treasury being shut up, the Grand Seignor returns to his own Quarter, and all the Grandees accompany him to the Gate of it. CHAP. X. Of the Means, which the Grand Seignor makes use of, to augment his Treasures, besides what is done, by the ordinary Revenues of the Empire. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The Presents made by the Bassa's to the Grand Seignor, when they enter into their Charges. The Trade driven by the Jews very hazardous to them. The extraordinary Wealth of the Bassa's. The great Advantages of the Chaznadar-Bachi, and the Pages of the Treasury. The prohibition of lending Money upon interest. The Persians but poor Casuists. Formalities observed in Turkey about Schedules. BEsides what may be left every Year in the Treasury, or Exchequer, out of the ordinary Revenues of the Empire, after all charges deducted, the Grand Seignor has Two other Expedients very conducive to the augmentation of both the Treasuries, to wit, the entrance of the Bassa's upon their Governments, and their removal out of them, whether it be by some disgrace, or by their natural, or violent deaths. All the Bassa's, on whom the Grand Seignor bestows Governments, and generally all those, who are removed out of the Seraglio, upon their advancement into Charges, The Bassa's Presents to the Grand Seignor, upon their advancements. are obliged, before they take possession of them, to make him some Presents, every one, answerably to the benefit he has received from the Prince. For example, the Bassa of Cairo, assoon as ever he is nominated to that Government, knows, that two Millions of Livers, that is, reduced to the English account, two hundred thousand pounds sterling, will hardly make good the Presents, which are expected from him at the Port, that is, those due to the Grand Seignor himself, and to the principal Sultanesses; as also to the Moufti, the Grand Vizir, the Caimacan, and other Persons of Credit in the Court, to whom he is engaged for his advancement to that Charge, and of whom he may stand in need for the future. The Present he makes the Grand Seignor himself, amounts to Five hundred thousand Crowns, and the rest will come to Two hundred thousand. Add again to that, Five hundred thousand Crowns, which will be expended in the Bassa's equipage, and so, before he sets his foot in Cairo, his own Purse, or those of his Friends, will be drained of Three Millions and six hundred thousand Livers. When he comes out of the Seraglio, if he want much of the aforesaid Sum, there is a necessity of borrowing; and if the purses of his Friends cannot do it, those of the The hazardous Trade of the Jews. Jews are readily opened for his supply. They run a great hazard, upon hopes of the great profit of making Cent. per Cent. interest, which the Bassa does promise them. And, to be the sooner reimbursed of the Money they have so hazarded, lest his Government be but a short one, they teach him a thousand lewd ways, to suck out the People's blood, and particularly to harass the poor Christians. If the Bassa's can but quietly enjoy their Governments, for one year, nay for six Months, the Jews make a good hand of it, and recover the Sums they had advanced. But, on the other side, they run a great hazard, in regard that it happens, many times, the Grand Seignor sends for the head of a Bassa, before he has had time enough to settle himself in his new Government, and then, they who have lent him Money are not to hope ever to recover any part of it. From what has been said, it may easily be concluded, That the greatest part of the Money of the whole Ottoman Empire, is in the Grand Seignor's hands, and among the Jews; I mean the Jews of Constantinople. For as to those who live in the Provinces, the world goes but ill with them, and they are in a much more wretched condition, than the Christians; in regard they do not follow any thing of Husbandry: and their inclinations being altogether bend for Traffic, and the management of the public Taxes or the Customs, 'tis impossible there should be employment for them all. The Grand Seignor therefore receives very considerable Sums from the Bassa's The extraordinary Wealth of the Bassa's. and other persons, on whom he bestows Charges, even before they have taken possession of them. But that amounts to little or nothing, in comparison of the advantages which he makes, upon their removal out of them, and especially when they have had a fair time to gather Treasures, by their insupportable exactions from the people. Some of these Bassa's have come to that excessive Wealth and Power, that their Revenues were equal to those of many great Princes. Such was the fortune of one Machmut, Beglierbeg of Europe, under the Reign of Mahomet the Second; and that, of the Grand Vizir, Nassuf, under Achmet the First. At the death of the latter, there were extraordinary Riches found in his House, in Silver, Gold, and Jewels, and all was brought to the Seraglio, along with his head. It may easily be conjectured, by the number of the greater and lesser Governments, whereof the Empire consists, that there is a considerable mortality amongst those, who derive their Charges and Fortunes from the pure Munificence of the Grand Seignor, and whose acquisitions thereupon falling to him, must of necessity make vast additionals to the Seraglio. But besides those who are gently conveyed out of this World, by a natural death, there hardly passes a year, but violent death comes and acts its part; and upon the least jealousy, or any fantastic apprehension the Grand Seignor may have, a Bassa receives a peremptory Order to stretch out his Neck, and he is immediately strangled: In the next Chapter, I shall give the Reader an Account, of the formality and ceremony, which is observed upon that occasion, where he will find somewhat worth his remarking; and I think I may confidently affirm, That they who know it is the custom, to strangle those, whose Lives the Grand Seignor would take away, know not all the Particulars observable in that Action. Assoon as a Bassa, or other Grandee of the Port is dead, howe'er it came to pass, The Bassa's Goods brought into the Seraglio. and an Inventory of his Goods taken, of which by the Laws of the Country the Prince is the only Heir, all is carried away into the Seraglio, and the Baltagis bring it in Coffers to the Door of the Treasury. The Chasnadar-bachi, having disposed them into one of the Chambers, Commands the Locks to be broke open, and the Coffers to be emptied in his presence; and 'tis then, that as well he himself, as the Pages of the Treasury endeavour to make their advantages of that Rich Booty. For there being ordinarily, amongst the other things, Jewels of great value, such as that wherein the Heron-tops are fastened in their Turbans, or a Poniard enriched with precious Stones, or some Carcanet of Pearls, if one or other of those Pages can make a dextrous and clean conveyance of some Piece, 'tis his own, and he puts it to what else he has in Stock, reflecting on what he has to do, at his departure out of the Seraglio, in order to his establishment in some Charge, and the great Expenses he must be at upon that account. The Chasnadar-bachi, who does his work first of all, and with more liberty, does sometimes connive at what he sees done by the others, remembering that he has been as they are, and was then glad, that he was not reproved for so doing. Yet if he perceives that any one of them has secured to himself a piece of great value, assoon as he is got to his Chamber, he secretly sends for him, and makes him restore it, paying him one half of its worth, and so keeps it himself. There are yet other great advantages accrueing to the Chief Officer, and the Pages, The great advantages of the Chasnadar-bachi, and the Pages of the Treasury. from those things which are brought into the Seraglio, upon the death of the Bassa's. When the Chasnadar-bachi has advertised the Grand Seignor, that, in the Coffers, which had been brought in, there were many things not fit for the Service of his Highness, and that it were better to put them off, before they were injured by the moisture or the dust; the Prince gives his permission for the sale thereof, and thereupon they take out of the Treasury what they do not account worthy of a place there. Immediately, they send for the Bazarcan-bachi, or Chief of the Merchants, who is the best skilled in those things, and who, in the presence of the Chasnadar-bachi, and the Pages of the Treasury, sets a value on every piece, to their satisfaction; for he does not prise it at above half the worth. All the Jewels that will bear a good price, and all the precious stones are disposed into the Treasury, and they expose to sale only things of less value, yet such as are worth much, as Trappings for Horses, Poniards Sabres, garnished with Gold, garments, rich Furs, Sasches, Turbans, and other things of that nature; all the pieces being valued, the Chasnadar-bachi sets aside the best of them, to be sent, together with the value set upon them to the principal persons of the Seraglio, with whom he is glad to hold a fair correspondence, and they pay for them the more willingly, because they have them at an easy rate. The rest is distributed among the Pages, according to the valuation, and they having made choice of such things as they will keep themselves, send away what they do not like, to be sold in Constantinople, by the Halvagisses, wherein they also make a vast advantage, considering the apprisement; not accounting what the same Halvagisses may hedge in for themselves, as a compensation for their trouble. When there is such a sale made, the Jews are always waiting about the great Gate of the Seraglio, not daring to come too near, for fear of a chastisement of the Bastinado, from the Kapigis, which they are very free to give them. They stand in expectation of these Halvagisses, with their bags full of Ducats and Rials, and make the best bargains they can with them. These sales are seldom made above once in two years, and the least of them does ordinarily exceed five hundred thousand Crowns, nay some have amounted to eight hundred Thousand. The Grand Seignor is soon advertised, what money has been raised by the sale, and giving orders for the disposal of it into the Treasury, he at the same time bestows ten or twenty Purses on the principal Officer, and the Pages of the Treasury. He does not make them that Present out of any other design, then to show his Grandeur, as being not ignorant of the advantages they have made by the Sale: but he tolerates that custom, and knows well enough, that sooner or later, all those profits will come again into the Treasury. 'Tis upon the same consideration, that the Grand Seignor permits a manifest breach The prohibition to lend at Interest. of the Law of Mahomet, which prohibits the taking of any interest for money lent; for he suffers the Pages and others, to lend considerable sums, to the Jews, at the rate of fifteen upon the hundred, interest. And the Persians have found out a very pleasant evasion, to stave off the reproach which might be made to them, of their transgressing against the same prohibition. The evasion is this. When they lend out money to any one, they have a Bill or Schedule made of the sum that's lent. Then they compute what the interest will amount The Persians ill Casuists. to, which is commonly after the rate of twelve in the Hundred. That done, they take a handkerchief, or some old Sasche, and giving it to the Person whom they lend the money to, they make him write a second Note, upon the score of the interest, wherein it is expressed, that the debt is for commodities bought, and duly received. And thus do they think to elude the reproaches of their own Consciences, and imagine, that they do not offend against the prohibition of Mahomet. The promise, which the Debtor makes, in writing, is not signed by him, it being not the custom of the Country, but he puts his seal to it. And yet that too is not sufficient, and it is further requisite, that they go before the Cadi, or the Judge of the Law, who consummates the work, by putting his own Seal to the writing. I have made appear, in this Chapter, the Means and Expedients, which the Grand Seignor makes use of, to augment his Revenues; we shall see in the next, the ways he has to exercise his Liberalities, without any charge at all to himself. CHAP. XI. A Subtle Expedient, whereby the Grand Seignor exercises great Liberalities, and meddles not at all with his Revenues. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The Commendable Policy of the Turks. The Ceremonies attending the Presents, sent by the Grand Seignor, to those whom he would honour. The particular way used by Mahomet the Fourth, to show himself liberal, without any charge to himself. Formalities observed at the Death of the Bassa's, who are strangled by the Prince's orders. When, and how they strike off the Head in Turkey. A prohibition against shedding the blood of the Mahometans, who are condemned to death. The Inventories of the Goods of Bassa's deceased, not faithfully taken. The causes inducing the Turks to defy Death with so much constancy. How difficult it is to get out of Turkey. Presents made to the Sultanesses. THE Two expedients which the Grand Seignor makes use of to augment his Treasury, besides what comes in by the ordinary revenues of the Empire, are much of the same nature, with those he uses, to bestow great largesses, without disbursing any thing himself. He makes his advantages of all; the Bassa's are as so many sponges, and he squeezes them, as well while they are living, as when they are dead, and at their cost, assigns recompenses to those, who have done him some acceptable service. Let us take things in order, one after another, and show in the first place, how he manages his subtle design, while the Bassa's are living, in getting out of them wherewithal to make ample gratifications, without any diminution of his Revenues. Amongst the Political maxims of the Ottoman Monarches, this is one of the most remarkable. They would have the Bassa's to be respected in their several Governments, by the People, as much as if they were there themselves in Person: and to make a greater, and more lively impression of that veneration in their minds, they think it fitting, to honour them, from time to time, with some Present, which is carried to them with much Ceremony. This Present, which is a certain demonstration of the Esteem, which the Prince has for the Person to whom he sends it, is commonly some rich Garment; and when he is willing to make it complete, he adds the Sabre, and the Poniard, garnished and adorned with precious stones. The Grand Seignor, upon the consideration beforementioned, finding himself as it were obliged to make a Present to that Bassa, knows well enough, that he will be sure, on the other side, to send him one which shall be worth ten times as much, and to make another to his Envoy, which he must look on as a recompense of his Services. But it is not always the Grand Seignor's design, by such Presents, to honour the Bassa, and keep the People the more in subjection to him. It happens many times, that when he intends to ruin him, he makes him a Present, that he may thence take occasion, in case he does not receive another from him, such as he desires, to send another Messenger for his Head. The Present, upon that occasion, is not a Vest, or Garment, but, a Sword, or a Battle-Axe, which are very Ominous Presents, and Advertisements to the Bassa, that the Grand Seignor has little kindness for him. To divert the Storm, which he sees likely to fall upon him, he doubles the Present he should have made, in case he had sent him but a Vest, which is a pledge of his affection. And if that Bassa be one of those, who Commands in the greater Governments, the Present which he sends to the Grand Seignor, ought not to amount to less than Two hundred Purses, that is to say, a Hundred thousand Crowns, not comprehending what is particularly given to the person who is sent by the Emperor. The persons charged with this Commission are, for the most part, such as the The Ceremonies attending the Presents sent by the Grand Seignor to those whom he would honour. Grand Seignor is willing to be Munificent to. So that, all things considered, the Present is not so much designed for him who receives it, as for him who sends it, and the person who carries it: And in this consists the artifice of exercising great Liberalities without disbursing any thing. The Ceremony performed at the delivery of this Present of the Grand Seignor, is this: He who carries it being come to the place where the Bassa lives, to whom it is sent, and having advertised him of it, this latter, with the noise of Drums, Trumpets, and Hautbois, assembles the people together, some of whom mount themselves on Horseback, to do him the greater honour. The Bassa himself marches in the Head of all, and they who are not mounted follow afoot, together with the Courtesans, or common Strumpets, of the place, who are obliged to assist at this Ceremony, dancing after a Tabour, and putting themselves into a thousand lascivious postures, according to the Custom of the Country. The Messenger who brings the Present makes a halt, in expectation of this Cavalcade, in some Garden near the City, or in the Fields under a Tent, which he had got set up for that purpose. After mutual Salutations, he casts the Vest over the Bassa's shoulders, puts the Sabre by his Side, and thrusts the Poniard into his Sasche before his Breast, telling him, That the Emperor, their Master, honours him with that Present, upon the good report which had been made to him, that he has demeaned himself well, that he does not tyrannize over his People, and that there is no complaint made, of his being defective in the administration of Justice. This Compliment past, the Bassa, in the same order, and amidst the Joyful Acclamations of the people, takes his way, and the Grand Seignor's Envoy along with him, towards his House, where he entertains him at a great Treat, and, after all is done, with a Present, which amounts to Ten thousand Crowns at the least. For, as I told you before, if the Present be carried to one of the Bassa's, who are in the greater Governments, as the Bassa's of Buda, Cairo, or Babylon, they shall not escape under Thirty or Forty thousand Crowns, and the Present which is sent to the Sultan, aught to amount to a hundred thousand. Nay it many times happens, that the Grand Seignor appoints what he would have their Present to his Envoy to amount to, and that especially, when he sends such as he has a particular kindness for, and would amply gratify. The Emperor Mahomet the Fourth, who now sits on the Throne, has a particular inclination to exercise Liberality, and to bestow Rewards on those who serve him; The particular way used by Mahomet iv to show himself liberal, without any Charge. but he does it, so as that it costs him nothing, and consequently, there is no occasion of taking aught out of the Treasury. When there is not an opportunity to send the Person, whom he has a desire to gratify, into the Country, with some Present, he has another Expedient, which will do the work. His Darling-Divertisement is Hunting, and he takes but little pleasure in any other Exercise. He thereupon order the Person, whom he would recompense, to be one at the Sport, and having killed a Stagg, or some other Beast, he order him to go and present it, from him, to one of the Grandees of the Port, whose abode is either at Constantinople, or some place near it. This Present is received with great demonstrations of joy, real, or apparent, and the person, to whom it is brought, is immediately to take order for the sending back of another, much exceeding it in value, to the Grand Seignor. And that consists ordinarily in excellent Horses, good pieces of Gold-Brockado, or rich Furs. But his work is yet not half over; there must be much more done for him, through whose hands he has received the Present, and he escapes very well, when, not accounting what he sends to the Grand Seignor, the carriage of it costs him but Ten thousand Crowns. Nay many times, he is forced to double the Sum, when he has not been so liberal, as the Prince expected he should have been; for he presently dispatches away an Officer, to reproach him with the slender account he has made of his Present, and the small recompense he had received, whom he had employed to bring it him. To these reproaches he sends him an express Order, to make him an additional Reward of Twenty or thirty Purses, which is immediately put in execution: and as to the Present, which the Grand Seignor has received, he commonly makes a distribution of it, amongst those, who are then about him. And these are the Advantages which the Grand Seignor screws out of the Bassa's, and other Grandees of the Port, whilst they are alive. Let us now consider those which accrue to him by their death, in order to the recompensing of those, whom he favours, without being obliged to take any thing out of his Coffers. When the death of a Bassa is resolved upon, the Grand Seignor delivers the Commission to him, whom he has designed to be kind to; and he finds it much more advantageous, to bring him the Sentence of his death, than to bring him a Present from the Prince. If the Execution is to be done in Constantivople, the ordinary Executioner is the Formalities observed at the death of the Bassa's, who are strangled by the Prince's Orders. Bostangi-bachi, who is always about the Grand Seignor's Person, and he himself does the Work. But if there be a necessity of going into some remote Province, 'tis commonly either a Kapigi-bachi, or one of the principal Bostangis, whom the Prince has a mind to show his kindness to, who is sent to perform the Execution. He who carries the Order, accompanied by five or six Capigis, sometimes manages his Affairs so, as to arrive at the place, while the Council is sitting. But if that cannot be so ordered, he goes to the Bassa, and commands him in the Grand Seignor's name, to call one immediately. That Council consists of the Bassa's Lieutenant, the Mufti, the Cadi, the chief Commander of the Janissaries belonging to that place, and some other persons concerned in the administration of Justice, who are of the most considerable of the Province. The Council being assembled, the Capigi-bachi enters, attended by his people and presents the Bassa with the Grand Seignor's Letter. He receives it with great respect, and having put it three several times to his forehead, he opens it, reads it, and finds that the Prince demands his head. He makes no other answer to that Order, than what he does in these few words; Let the Will, says he, of my Emperor be done: only give me leave to say my Prayers; which is granted him. His Prayers being ended, the Capigis seize him by the Arms, and the chief of them presently takes off his Girdle or Sasche, and casts it about his Neck. That Girdle consists of several small strings of Silk, with knots at both ends, which two of the company immediately catch hold of, and one drawing one way, and the other, t'other-way, they dispatch him in an instant. If they are unwilling to make use of their Girdle, they take a handkerchief, and with the Ring which they use, in the bending of their Bows, and which they ordinarily wear on the right-hand Thumb, they thrust the hand between the handkerchief, which is tied very close, and the Throat, and so break the very Throat-Bone. Thus they make a shift to strangle a man in an instant, suffering him not to languish in pain, that he may die a faithful Mahometan, and not have the time to enter into despair; the Turks thinking our way of hanging Criminals, who are so long in torment upon the Gibbet, a strange kind of Execution. Though I have often used this expression, That the Grand Seignor sends to demand When and how they strike of the Head in Turkey. the Head of any person, whom he would rid out of the way; yet they never cut it off, but when he expressly declares his desire to see it, and then it is brought to him. If it be from some place at a great distance, they take out the Bruins, and fill the empty place with Hay; and it was my fortune to see two Heads so ordered, at the same time, which they carried in a Bag. They were the Heads of the Bassa's of Kars, and Erzerom. It is further to be observed, That when the Sentence of death is passed by the Prince against any one, what quality soever he may be of, the Turks make no further account of him; and when they speak of him, treat him not otherwise than they would do a Dog. The Bostangi, who had been commissionated to bring those two Heads to the Grand Seignor, finding himself weary and indisposed at a Village in Armenia, where it was my chance to be at that time, and having understood, that there was a Frenchman in the Inn, asked one of my Servants whether I had any Wine, and would be content to let him have any, to cheer up his spirits. I immediately sent him some in a large Flagon; whereupon having entreated me to come and take a Glass with him, which I thought it not fit to deny, he would needs show me, whether I would or no, the Heads of those two Bassa's; a sight I had no great curiosity to see. When there is no order given for the bringing of the Head, they bury the Body about Midnight, without any ceremony, and the memory of the Bassa, who had made so much noise before, is soon extinguished and laid in the dust. But it is moreover to be A Prohibition against shedding the blood of the Mahometans who are condemned to death. noted, That it is the Custom in Turkey, not to cut off the Head of any one, till after they have strangled him, and that the blood is quite cold; it being against their Law, That the blood of a Mussulman (that is, one of the Faithful) should be spilt, upon any occasion, but in Warr. The execution being over, he who brought the Order for it, makes an immediate Seizure of all that belonged to the deceased Bassa; and after he has set aside what he The Inventories of the Goods of Bassa's deceased, not faithfully taken. liked best for his own use, whether in Gold or Jewels, he brings the same persons, who had been at the precedent Council, to proceed to the Inventory of his Goods, which are afterwards, as I have said elsewhere, transmitted to the Chambers of the Treasury. They who are assistant at the taking of that Inventory, know well enough, that many things, which belonged to the deceased, are embezzled, but they are so far from repining or murmuring at it, that they sign and attest, that there was not any more found. They are afraid, if they demeaned themselves otherwise, lest that Officer of the Seraglio, whom the Grand Seignor has sent, and who possibly is in favour, should do them ill offices at the Court, and spread some false report of them; whence, according to the example they have then before their eyes, might happen, in like manner, the loss of their Charges, and Lives. They therefore think it prudence, to connive at what ever is done by that Envoy, as being otherwise persuaded, that he will not be disowned by the Grand Seignor, who is not ignorant of what's done upon those occasions. Nay, on the contrary, whatever he may have dextrously secured to himself of the Bassa's Goods, they make him some additional Presents of their own, at his departure from them, engaging him thereby, to speak well of them to the Grand Seignor, and to the Grand Vizir, at his return to the Port. And then also, not accounting what he had taken beforehand, and what Custom tolerates, he receives new marks of the Liberality of his Prince, who is satisfied that he has so faithfully executed his Orders: and so he participates of what is set down in the Inventory, when the Bassa's Goods are brought into the Seraglio. Some, possibly, will be apt to imagine, that this Sentence of Death passed in the Grand Seignor's Letter, should raise some disturbance and astonishment in the Soul of The Causes inducing the Turks to defy Diath with so much constancy. him who reads it, and who reading therein his own Condemnation, knows that it must be immediately executed. Yet is it not apparent in his Countenance, that he is much startled at it, he is not surprised therewith, he sees that few of his Companions escape the same sat, and he has disposed himself for such an end, assoon as he first took possession of his Charge. Besides, the Turks have a strong persuasion, That the Decrees of Predestination are irrevocable, and that it is impossible to avoid them; which makes them look Death in the face, with such a degree of constancy and intrepidity, as renders them in a manner insensible. To which reflection we may add this, That that ready and implicit obedience and submission of the Turks, to the Orders of their Sovereign, is rather a principle of Religion, than of State, which has been instilled into them, by a most subtle piece of Politics; and they believe, That, if they die by the Command of their Prince, they go straight into Paradise. As for the opportunity of making an escape out of Turkey, by any one who might The Difficulties of making an Escape out of Turkey. have some presentiment of his destruction, it is to no purpose to think of it. All the Officers, and the Slaves, whom the Bassa's have in their Retinue, are so many Spies, and observers of their Actions; and it is impossible for them, to conceal what they do from them. 'Twere dangerous for a man to entrust a Secret with any one of them; they are mean Souls, and uncapable of any gallant Action, besides that the Ports and Passages are equally shut up against both. If there be the least discovery made thereof, the Governor of the Frontier places would immediately have Orders from the Port, to take the Field; nay if there were not any such, they are but over-diligent, in enquiring after, and informing themselves of all those, who pass through the extent of their Jurisdiction. Besides, though there were some likelihood of compassing it, and that, travelling only in the Night time, a man might get into some Neighbouring State; yet Turkey being in a manner quite surrounded by Nations who abhor the Domination of the Ottomans; 'twere as much as to leap out of the Frying-pan into the Fire, and to go and pass for a Spy, amongst a fort of people, who would give no quarter. Whence it might be imagined, that there were less difficulty in attempting an escape by Sea, than to hazard it by land: but the former is the much more difficult, and the severe prohibitions made to the Christians, upon pain of death, not to take any Turk or Slave, into their Ships, which are exactly searched, before they weigh Anchor, shut up all the Ports of Turkey, against those of the Country, who might be desirous to get out of it. True it is, however, that few years pass, but that a considerable number of Slaves are conveyed away, by the charity and contrivances of the Christian Consuls, and Merchants. They are secretly kept at the Houses of some Christian Inhabitants of the Country, whose secrecy and silence are bought with Money; and the same receipt stops the mouths of those, who have the oversight of the Ports, and are warmly entertained with drinking, while they cunningly get the Slaves aboard the Vessel, which has been visited, and is then ready to set sail. They would be loath to run themselves into that danger for natural Turks: there would be some ground to fear, that it might be some Plot on their side, to surprise and try the Christians; and it seldom happens that they have a thought of making any escape. They know well enough, that, whether it be by Sea, or Land, (excepting only the Kingdom of Persia, where they are hated upon the account of the difference of Sects) they cannot make their escape any where but into Christendom, where they would not be permitted the exercise of their Mahometan Religion, which they would not renounce for a thousand lives. ere we close up the Discourse concerning the Liberality of the Ottoman Monarches, it is to be observed, That sometimes they make very considerable Presents, which they Presents made to the Sultanesses. take out of the Grand Treasury, and which are paid in Silver only, if they are ordered for the Grandees of the Port, whether in the Seraglio, or out of it. Those Presents consists ordinarily of a Purse of Gold, which amounts to Fifteen thousand Ducats, or Thirty thousand Crowns; and when there are any such made to the Sultanesses, they receive all in Gold. To do that, there's no occasion of going to the Secret Treasury, there is gold enough in the Fourth Chamber, into which they at first bring in all the Gold and Silver of all the Revenues of the Empire; and that Sum, which makes no great hole in the great heap, returns again into the same place, by several ways. CHAP. XII. Of the Present, which the Grand Seignor sends, every Year, to Mecha. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The third part of the Revenue of Egypt, how employed. The great Wealth of the Sheck of Mecha. Ceremonies observed at Mahomet's Tomb. The Caravan of Cairo. The Present sent from Mecha to the Great Mogul. The Opinion of the Mahometans, concerning Mecha and Medina. THat I make here a particular Chapter of the Present, which the Grand Seignor sends every Year to Mecha, is occasioned by this third part of the Revenue of Egypt, which is peculiarly designed for it; and upon this Consideration withal, That I have singular Remarks to make upon that subject. Three Millions of Livers, of Twelve, of annual Revenue, which the Kingdom of Egypt pays the Grand Seignor, are partly expended in the Rich Carpet, and the Sumptuous The third part of the Revenue of Egypt, how employed. Tent, which he sends to the Sheck, every year, in honour to Mahomet's Tomb. Another part goes to the payment of those who serve in the Mosqueys; As for instance, the Imans, who are their Priests; the Cheuches, who are their Preachers; the Muezims, who, by their noise on the Towers of the Mosqueys, call the people to their Devotions; and the Kaijms of Mecha and Medina, who look to, and keep clean the Mosqueys, and light the Lamps. We must also put into the Account of these Three Millions, the Sustenance of all the Pilgrims for the space of Seventeen days, the Grand Seignor sending, for that end, a sufficient Sum to the Sheck. This Sheck, who is, as 'twere, the Supreme Person upon the score of the Law, and the High Priest of all the Mahometans, what Country and Sect soever they be of, makes the poor ignorant people believe, that there come every year to Mecha, Seventy thousand Pilgrims, Men and Women; and if that number were not complete, the Angels would come in humane forms, to make it up. This Prince, whom we call the Sheck, for whom all the Mahometans have a great Veneration, is very Rich, and very powerful, and that may be easily conjectured, by The great Wealth of the Sheck of Mecha. the Presents, which he receives every year from the Grand Seignor, and the other Mahometan Princes. These Presents are all his own, to be disposed of as he pleases, at the end of the Year, when new ones are sent to him. He makes his advantage also of all the Presents that are made by the Pilgrims, and of the Sums of Money, which those very Princes send him, to be distributed in Alms, which he also disposes of as he pleases; and all these Presents put together, make him such a Revenue as is hardly imaginable. For Mahumetism spreads very much into Europe, Asia, and Africa, and that much more than is commonly believed, as I shall more distinctly make it appear, at the end of my Relation, in a particular Chapter, which I design for the handling of that matter. From several Parts of the World, there come Caravans to Mecha, and when the Devotion is to begin, the High Priest, assisted by all the people belonging to the Law, Ceremonies observed at Mahomet's Tomb. spends night and day, in saying of Prayers, and performing the necessary Ceremonies. On the Seventh day, all the Pilgrims are assembled together before the Sheck's Tent, who appears at the entrance of it, and standing upon a low Stool, that he may be seen by those who are at the greatest distance from him, Prays, and gives his Benediction to all the people, putting a period to the Devotion, with these words, That God would enable them to return in Peace, as they came thither. From that minute, every one must bethink himself, that he is to be at his own charge; the Sheck gives no more, and 'tis then that he gins to make great advantages to himself. For whatever is sold for the Sustenance of the Pilgrims, comes from him; and besides, he holds a correspondence with the Masters of the Caravans, of whom the Pilgrims are forced to buy conveniences for their riding back again, at more than three times the rate they are worth, when the Beasts they had brought out of their own Countries have failed them by the way. The Caravan of Cairo is the most numerous, and the most considerable of all the The Caravan of Cairo. Caravans, that come to Mecha. The Caravan-bachi, who is the Captain and Conductor of it, makes his gains by it, at his return, worth him Two hundred thousand Crowns; and there is a great competition about his place, which is at the disposal of the Bassa of Cairo, and commonly carried by the highest bidder for it. The Captain of this Caravan is also Master of the Waters, which are carried into the Cisterns, and it is according to his Orders that they are distributed; and whereas that distribution is equal, as well in relation to the Poor, as to the Rich, if the latter would have any beyond the quantity allowed them, they must pay dearly for it; and the Captain, who sets what imposition he pleases upon it, makes a considerable advantage thereby. But let us return to the Grand Seignor's Present. The Tent, and the Carpet, which The Present sent from Mecha to the Great Mogul. he sends, are two Pieces equally precious, as well for the excellency of the Stuff, as the additional embellishments hereof. The Carpet is designed for the covering of Mahomet's Tomb; and the Tent, which is erected hard by the Mosquey, is for the Sheck, who does not stir out of it, during the Seventeen days of Devotion. This High Priest of the Mahometan Law, has found out the secret knack, of extracting inexpressible Sums of Money, out of that Carpet and Tent, which are renewed every year: and when the new Present is arrived from the Grand Seignor, he sends, as 'twere out of a singular favour, certain pieces of the Curtain of the old Tent, to several Mahometan Princes, of whom he receives Magnificent Presents in requital. This Curtain, which is set up on the outside of the Tent, quite round it, to hinder the people from seeing those that are under it, consists of several pieces, six foot high, and of a great length: and the Sheck endeavours to persuade those Princes, That if they fasten one of those pieces to their Tents, when they are going to engage in a War, against those whom they account Infidels, good fortune will be sure to attend them, and it will not be long ere they gain the Victory. But if he sends either the whole Curtain, or the Tent, or Carpet entire, it must be to a great Monarch indeed, such as the Great Cham of Tartary, or the Great Mogul: and that he does, once in ten, or twelve years; one while to the one, and another, to the other. Of this we have a late instance, in Aurengzeb, who at the present is King of the Indies, and whom we otherwise call the Great Mogul. For upon his establishment in his Throne, the Sheck sent him the whole Curtain belonging to the Tent; and great joy there was at his Court, that the King had received so Magnificent a Present, from the Holy Place, as they call it. The Sheck was soon after made sensible of the Royal Liberality of that Great Monarch, one of the Richest and most Powerful of the Universe; and thus does that Spiritual Head of the Mahometan Religion, who has a kind of Superintendency over all the Members, know how to make his advantage of them, and has found out the way, to enrich himself, at the cost of all the Princes and Nations, who submit themselves to the Mahometan Law. I question not, but that they who have writ of the Religion of the Turks, have given some account of the Pilgrimage of Mecha, which is one of the most essential parts thereof; and therefore, as well for that reason, as also for that I should digress too much from my subject, I ought not to prosecute that matter any farther. I shall take occasion here, to make three Remarks, which I have originally learned, of one of the most learned in the Rubrics of the Mahometan Law. The first is, that the Turks, by an ancient Tradition, believe, That Mecha is the place, where God commanded Abraham to build him a house; and that while he was there, all Nations came thronging to visit him: and that it is also the same place, where Mahomet received the Alcoran, from Heaven. The second relates to the Commandment imposed upon all the Mahometans, to be, once in their lives, concerned in the Pilgrimage of Mecha. For it is to be observed, That the obligation does not extend to the poorer sort of people, who have hardly wherewithal to live upon, and would bring great misery on their Families, by their absence, as being not able to leave them what is requisite for their sustenance. The third Remark is concerning the preference of the two Cities of Mecha, and Medina. The former is the place of Mahomet's birth, which it was his design to honour, and make known, by that famous Pilgrimage, whereto he obliges all those of his Law. The latter is the place of his Burial, of which there is abundance of fabulous relations. Mahomet, in his Alcoran, does only enjoin their going to Mecha, where there are no other Relics of that false Prophet, than one of his Sandals: And the Doctors of the Law are also of opinion, that there is no obligation of going to Medina, and that without seeing that City, a man satisfies the Command of Mahomet. I shall treat at large of the Pilgrimage of Mecha, in the last Chapter of this Relation of my Travels, and of the different Roads by which the Mahometans of Europe, Asia, and Africa, are conducted to the Tomb of their Prophet. CHAP. XIII. Of the Cupbearer's Quarter, and of divers other Apartments. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The ancient Custom practised, when the Grand Seignor is presented with any thing to drink, between meals. A way to quench thirst at meals, wholly particular to the Levantines. The composition of Treacle. A stately service of Gold-Plate. Beds according to the Turkish mode. Ways to satisfy the necessities of Nature different from ours. The Causes of the abominable Sin committed by the Turks, who are confined within the Seraglio. I Have discovered many things particularly observable, concerning the Treasury of the Ottoman Monarches, and there are yet some very Remarkable passages to be The Ancient Custom practised when the Grand Seignor drinks between Meals. communicated, relating to the other Quarters of the inner part of the Seraglio. Between the Treasury, and an obscure Vaulted Gallery, in length between Fifteen and Twenty paces, which conducts you to an Iron-Door, by which there is a passage into the Gardens, you find, on the left hand, the Apartment of the Pages of the Kilar, or the Cupbearer's Office. That is the place where they prepare the Sherbets, and other Liquors, for the Grand Seignor's own drinking, and where they keep the Wine, if it happens, that he drinks any, as Sultan Amurath did, of whom I have often had occasion to speak. 'Tis an ancient Custom, That when the Grand Seignor calls for Water, to drink between meals, every time he so calls costs him ten Sequins, or Chequins. The Ceremony observed therein is this: In the Chamber called the Hazoda, which is the Apartment of the Forty-Pages, who are always near the Grand Selgnor's Person, there is perpetually one of them standing Sentinel at the Entrance, which leads to the Cupbearer's Office, where two Pages of the same Quarter are in like manner upon the Sentry. When the Grand Seignor is thirsty, and calls for water, the Page of the Hazoda immediately makes a sign to the two Pages of the Kilar, of whom one advances up to the Kilar-bachi, or Cupbearer himself, crying out Sou, which signifies Water, to advertise him, that the Prince would drink; and the other runs to the door of the Hazoda, where the most ancient of the Forty Pages gives him Ten Sequins. That Page is the Treasurer of the said Chamber, and he pays the small Sums which the Grand Seignor gives order for, an Office which might be called in English, The Treasurer of the petty Enjoyments. The Water is sometimes brought in a Cup of Gold, sometimes in a Vessel of Porcelain, placed upon a large Server of Gold, about two foot diameter, and enriched with Precious Stones within and without. That is looked on, as one of the richest pieces of Plate belonging to the Seraglio. The principal Cupbearer, who is a white Eunuch, carries it with great Ceremony, attended by a hundred Pages of the Kilar, whom he ordinarily has under his Charge, and upheld under the Arms by two of them, who walk on both sides of him. For it is required, That he should carry it lifted up above his head, and so he cannot see his way but by looking under it. When he is come to the Door of the Hazoda, the Pages of the Kilar, who have accompanied him so far, pass no further, save only the two who uphold his Arms, and the Pages of the Chamber go along with him quite into the Grand Seignor's Presence. But when they come to the door of the Chamber, two of the more ancient among them, take the places of the two Pages of the Kilar, and complete the conducting of the Kilargi-Bachi, under the Arms, to offer the Cup to the Prince. When he has not any thing to say to him, he carries it back again into the Kilar; but if he will take his opportunity to entertain him with some Affair, he delivers the Cup and the Server into the hands of one of the Pages, who led him under the Arms, and he delivers it to those, who, belonging to the Cupbearer's Office, waited there in expectation of his return. 'Tis in the same place, to wit, that under the oversight of the Cupbearer, they keep A way to quench thirst at meals, wholly particular to the Levantines. all sorts of refreshing and cooling Waters, as that of Peaches, Cherries, Raspices, and such other fruits. The Turks do not drink during their refection, that is, not till they have given over eating; and because it is possible they may be dry, whilst they eat; take here the manner how they quench that thirst. They are served at Table with these Waters, in great Cups of Porcelain, which hold about two Quarts, and the better to distinguish them, they put into every one of those Cups, some of the same fruit, from which the Water that is therein had been extracted, and which they had preserved for that purpose. Every one has lying by him a Wooden spoon, which holds three or four times as much as any of our ordinary ones, and whereof the handle is of a length proportionable: for as to Gold or Silver spoons, it is not their custom to use any. With those spoons, they can take out what is in the Cups, according to the Water which they most fancy, and so they suspend thirst, taking ever and anon some spoonfuls of it. It is also in the Cupbearers Apartment that the Treacle is made, which the Turks The Composition of Treacle. call Tiriak-Farik, and there is a great quantity of it made, because they use it as an Universal remedy, and charitably bestow it on all sorts of people, as well in City as Country, who are desirous of it. The Vipers which are used in this composition are brought out of Egypt, and they make no account of those which other Countries afford, or they are of opinion at least, that the former are much the better for that purpose. Before the Apartment of the Kilar, there is a Gallery whereof the floor is paved A stately service of Gold Plate. with square pieces of Black and White Marble, and sustained by eight fair Pillars of White Marble, and at the end of it is a little Quarter, where the principal Cupbearer has his residence. There also are the Lodgings of his Substitute, the Kilarquet-houdasi, who is not an Eunuch, as the Kilargi-bachi is, and who, at his removal out of the Seraglio, is ordinarily advanced to the charge of a Bassa. The Kilargi-bachi has in his custody all the Gold and Silver-plate, the Basins, the Ewers, the Bowls, the Cups, the Servers, and the Candlesticks, the greatest part of that service being garnished with Diamonds, Rubies and Emeralds, and other precious Stones of value. As for golden Dishes and Candlesticks, without any additional embellishments of precious Stone, there are some so large, and so massy, that there must be two men to carry one of them. These Candlesticks are made after a fashion quite different from ours. They are ordinarily two or three Foot high, upon a Base of above twelve inches Diameter, and the upper part thereof is as 'ttwere a Box, or kind of Lamp, with its beak, and it may contain above a pound of suet. 'Tis to prevent the fall of any thing upon the Carpet, that they make the foot of the Candlestick so large as I told you; and besides, it is requisite, that it should bear some proportion to the height. The match, or wieke, which they put into the Suet, beaten into small bits, is about the bigness of a Man's thumb, and consequently must needs make a great light in the Room. As to the Kilarquet-houdast, he is the Superior over the Halvagisses, and the Akegis, who are the Cooks and the Confectioners, of whom not one can enter into service, but by his Orders. In my discourse of the Treasury, I made no mention of the Quarter of those Officers, who serve there, because my design was to follow the order of the Structures of the Seraglio, and to conduct the Reader, by little and little, out of one Court into another, and out of one Quarter into another. That of the Pages of the Treasury, is hard by the Kilar, and gins with a Gallery, paved with square pieces of Marble, of different colours, sustained by eight Pillars, of the same material, and whereof the sides and the roof are painted with all sorts of flowers, in Gold and Azure. That Gallery is open on the one side, and on the other you find in the midst of it, the Door leading into the Apartment of the Pages, with three great Windows on the right hand, and as many on the left: And 'tis there that the six most elderly Pages of the Treasury have their residence night and day. From that door, along a walk paved with white Marble stones, very large ones, about fifteen paces in length, and five in breadth, you come to another Portal, of the same material, sustained by two Pillars of black Marble; over the said Portal, there may be read these words, which are ordinary enough in the mouths of the Turks, and which I have explicated elsewhere; Lafoy Illahé Illa Alla, Muhammed Resoul Alla. It gives entrance into a long Hall, where there may be seen on both sides a kind of Beds according to the Turkish mode. Seat, or Scoffold, a foot and a half in height, and between seven and eight in breadth. Every Page has but four foot in breadth for his reposing place, as well by day, as by night: And for their Beds, they are permitted to have under them, only a Woollen Coverlet, four times doubled, which serves them for a Quilt, and over that they ordinarily have one of Gold or Silver-Brockado, or some other sumptuous Silk-stuff; and in the Winter time, they are permitted to have three of them. They are not to have their Coverlets all of Wool, which would be so much the warmer, because it would not be a decent sight for the Grand Seignor, when he comes ever and anon, in the night time, pretending indeed as if he would surprise them, and see how they demean themselves, but in effect, sometimes to cover lewd designs. 'Tis between those Coverlets that the Pages take their repose, having their Waistcoat and Drawers on; for there is no talk of any other kind of Linen, either in Turkey, or any part of the East; and whether it be Winter or Summer, they always lay themselves down to sleep, half clad, without any great Ceremony. Over the Beds of the Pages, there is a Gallery, which goes quite round the Hall, Ways to satisfy the necessities of Nature different from ours. and is sustained by Pillars of Wood, painted all over with red varnish, and there they have their Coffers, wherein their clothes are kept. Every one has a Coffer to himself, but the twelve Signior Pages have each of them two Coffers, and one of those twelve has the Key of the Gallery in his custody. It is ordinarily opened but one day in the Week, which is answerable to our Wednesday, and then, every Page goes, and takes out of his Coffer, what he stands in need of. If any one of them must of necessity look for some thing there upon any other day, he gets five or six Pages together, and they all go to the principal Officer of the Treasury, and he commands the Rafgis, who has the Key of the Gallery in his custody, to open it for them, and to have a care that they meddle not with the Coffers of their Companions. At one of the ends of the Hall, there is a Door, which conducts you to the Fountains, where those that have their dependence on the Treasury go and wash, when they are called to their Devotions. There are seven Copper Cocks for that convenience, and as well the pavement, as the Walls, of that place are of white Marble. The places appointed for the easing of Nature are on the right hand, divided into four little Rooms, which are always kept very clean, and paved with square pieces of white Marble, as the Room of the Fountain is. The Turks do not sit down, as we do, when they are in those places, but they squat down over the hole, which is not half a foot, or little more above the ground. That hole is covered with an Iron plate, which rises and falls by a Spring, and turning one way or other, at the falling of the least weight upon it, it comes to the station it was in before, assoon as the ordure is fallen from it. I have observed elsewhere, that the Turks, and generally all the Mahumatanes, do not use paper in such cases, or upon any undecent occasion, and when they go to those kinds of places, they carry along with them a Pot of water, to wash themselves withal, and the Iron-plate is also made clean at the same time. And so the hole being always covered, and the Iron plate always kept clean, there can be no ill smell in the place, and that the rather, for that a small current of water, which passes under that place, carries away all the Ordure. But it were to be wished, that they would not so much concern themselves in keeping The Causes of the abominable Sin committed by the Turks who are confined within the Seraglio. those places so clean, provided they could forbear polluting them with those detestable impurities, which I should gladly have left unmentioned, did I not fear the reproach might be made to me, of my having been defective in point of exactness. I have already said something of it, in the Second Chapter of this Relation, and it is a subject, which is to be slightly passed over, that so there may be but imperfect Idaea's left of it. It is therefore in those places, that the Pages make their nocturnal assignations, in order to the committing of the worst of all crimes, which yet they find it very difficult to put in execution, because they are so narrowly watched; and if they are taken in the very act, they are punished with so great severity, that sometimes they are even drubbed to death; of which chastisement, I have elsewhere given an account. In like manner, to prevent the committing of that infamous act, in the places where they take their repose, there are two Torches lighted, which last all the Night, and three Eunuches are ever and anon going their Rounds, by which means the Pages are deprived of the opportunities, which otherwise they night have, to offend. But we need not go far, to find out the Source of this Evil: the strictness of the restraint they are in, and their being deprived of the sight of Women, induce those Young Men to practise such defilements, and hurry the Turks into a Gulf, to which they, by an execrable passion, are, naturally but too much inclinable. The Ichoglans, who are brought very young into the Seraglio, know not what a Woman is but by the instinct of Nature; and there are some of them, who, for one day's sight and enjoyment of a Woman, would be content to die the next. All those Nations generally have so great a bent to lubricity, that it seems impossible they should quit it, but with their lives: what they cannot do one way, they endeavour to do another; and they of the Seraglio do all they can to elude the inspection of their Overseers. The Reader may call to mind the Action of the two Pages, who hide themselves in the Mosquey, and that single Example is enough, to show, how they seek out all the ways imaginable, to satisfy their brutish passion. The Quarter of the Kasnadar-bachi, as also that of his Companion, or Substitute, is adjoining to that of the Pages of the Treasury, and from their Chambers, they have a Prospect into a little Flower-Garden, which belongs to them. We have yet some other Chambers to view, before we come to that, which they call the Hazoda, which is the Apartment of the Forty Pages of the Chamber, and the entrance to that of the Grand Seignor. CHAP. XIV. Of the Quarter of the Dogangibachi, or Grand Falconer, and of some other Officers. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. Magnificent Chambers. The ordinary Revenues of the Grand Falconers. The Magnificence of the Ottoman Princes, in what relates to Hunting. Birds supplying the places of Dogs, in running down a Deer, or a Hare. The delicate Chamber of the Selidgar-Agi, who carries the Grand Seignor's Sword. The excellent order observed in the Seraglio. THe Dogangibachi, or Grand Falconer, and the Pages, whom he has under Magnificent Chambers. his Charge, have their Quarter, between that of the Pages of the Treasury, and that of the Pages of the Chamber. The place appointed for the Pages of the Falconry, has nothing in it extraordinary, and a man cannot make a discovery of any thing of beauty therein: but on the other side, the two Chambers, where the Grand Falconer Lodges, have something that's Magnificent, and are as sumptuously furnished, as any other Room of the Seraglio. The first, which serves for an Antichamber, is lesser, and they are both of them paved with a Checquer-work of black and white Marble, having the Roof beautified with Flowers, painted, and guilt. But that of the second Chamber is the more sumptuous by much, as having large Flowers, in embossed Work, every Flower in its square piece, and the Junctures all covered with Gold. The Walls are excellently wainscoted, wherein also they have not spared for Gold, and on both sides, there are cross-barred Windows, whereby the Chamber receives much light. The Marble Checquer-work of the Floor is not seen, as being covered with a silken Carpet, upon which there are laid, in several parts of the Chamber, a certain number of Quilts, two or three foot in breadth, and about four Inches thick. Some of them are covered with Velvet, or Satin, of different Colours; others, with Gold-brocadoes, and every one has its Cushion, of the same Stuff, between three and four foot in length, and about two foot in height. These Cushions are laid behind their backs, when they are sitting, after their Mode, crosslegged, and those little Quilts are, to them, instead of Chairs, and Couches, in a Chamber. If the Grand Falconer be removed out of the Seraglio, it is upon his advancement The ordinary Revenues of the Grand Falconer. to the Charge of one of the principal Bassa's, and to one of the greater Governments, as that of Cairo, or Babylon; and while he continues in the Seraglio, besides his Table, which is all at the Prince's charge, he is allowed an annual Revenue, of ten or twelve thousand Crowns. The Pages of the Falconry, carry Hawks on their Fists, and feed them: they have the liberty to go and exercise them in the Gardens and they all attend the Grand Seignor, when he goes a Hawking, or Hunting. They wear the same Stuffs, as the Pages of the Treasury, and may also put on Vests of Cloth, but made after such a fashion, as makes them easily distinguishable from the Ichoglans, of the first and second Chamber, who are always clad in Woollen-cloth. For the Pages of the Falconry have their Sleeves made narrower and narrower, from the Shoulder to the Wrist, and they are there fastened close with Buttons; but the Sleeves of the Pages of the Treasury, are as wide below, as they are above, and that makes the difference between them. The twelve Signior Pages of the Falconry have the same slaveries and advantages, as the Pages of the Treasury, and are their Fellow-Commoners; but the other Companions of the former, are treated after the same rate as the Pages of the Seferlis, who wash the Grand Seignor's Linen, and they all common at the same Table. Besides the forementioned Pages, the Grand Falconer has under his command near eight hundred other persons, as well in Constantinople as the parts adjacent thereto, The Magnificence of the Ottoman Princes in relation to Hunting and Hawking. perpetually employed in the ordering and training up of all sorts of Birds for the Game, and there come none into the Seraglio, but what are so ordered, and taught. Though there may be a very great number of such, yet does not the Grand Seignor make use of any, but what have some stone of value about the neck, nay sometimes such as may be valued at ten thousand Crowns. All the Mahumetane Princes are very sumptuous, in all things relating to their Game, and particularly the King of Persia. Nothing can be imagined more Glorious, or Magnificent, than the long Train of the Grandees of his Court, when they return from their Sports. They all march in an excellent order, every one with the Hawk on his Fist, and every Hawk having about the neck, either a Diamond, or some other precious stone, of great value, with the hood all embroidered with Pearls; which must needs make a most delightful show. The Turks, and other inhabitants of the Levant, breed up, in order to their divertisements, several sorts of Birds, which the Europaeans make no use of at all, and they Birds supplying the place of Dogs, in running down a Deer, or Hare. are of a larger size, and stronger, than ours. With those, instead of Dogs, will they run down a Hare, or a Stag; and they have also the diversion of hunting the Wild Boar, and other savage Beasts. But what makes that Sport the more delightful is this, that in Persia, the Country is all open and champion, and there are no Woods, into which the Hawk, or other Bird, might get out of their sight. He discovers the Beast at a great distance, fastens of a sudden upon it, so as that it cannot get lose from him, and, sticking close to the Head, picks out the Eyes of it, vexes, and torments it, and retards the swiftness of its course, by which means, the Huntsmen come up the sooner to it, and dispatch it. But they do not give the fatal blow, till the Prince has ordered them to do it, or till he has shot off an Arrow, or discharged his Firelock: upon which signal, they who are about him are permitted to exercise their courage and dexterity. Next adjoining to the Apartment of the Pages, belonging to the Falconary, there is a long Gallery, which is open but of one side, and in the floor of it, there is a little ascent. It is sustained by ten Pillars of Marble, of several colours, and paved with a square-pieced work of the same material; with a Wainscotage, wherein there are some flowers painted, but very meanly. From the end of the foresaid Gallery, turning on the right hand, you come to the Chamber of the Selidgar-Agi, who carries the Sword before the Grand Seignor. Some The Seligdar-Aga's Chamber, who carries the Grand Seignor 's word. part of that Chamber is covered with Carpets, the other has a Seat or Scaffold, raised three foot high, but of a considerable breadth, to which they ascend by so many steps of white Marble, of four foot in length, the remainder of which Seat, being divided from the Chamber by a Ballistered work, partly gilded with Gold, and partly Green. All within that enclosure of Balisters is covered with rich silken Carpets, and all about, as well to the Wall side, as to that of the Balisters, there are sumptuous Cushions of all sorts, of Gold and Silver-brocadoes. The Walls of the Chamber are all gilt, and at equal distances, there are flower-pots painted, rarely well diversified, and affording a most delightful prospect. The place where the Selidgar-Agi sits, is at the corner of that part of the Chamber which is enclosed with the Balisters, on the right hand, and over his Head hang the Swords and Sabres, which he carries before the Grand Seignor, within the Seraglio; and after him, when his Highness goes out of the Seraglio. Assoon as a Prince is come to the Crown, whatever he ordinarily wears, is never returned The excellent order observed in the Seraglio. into the Treasury, till after his death: And the Chasnadar-bachi, who is the Overseer of it, finds by his Registries, whether all the things that were taken out of the Treasury, during the Grand Seignor's life, are brought into it again, at his death. Whenever any piece is taken out, the Seligdar-Agi, to whom it is delivered, gives the principal Officer of the Treasury an acknowledgement, under his hand, of his having received it; and by that means nothing can be embezzled, good order being strictly observed in all things, relating to the Seraglio. In some other parts of the Chamber you find hanging up Poniards and Knives, all rich Pieces, and beset with precious stones, which, as all the rest, are exactly Registered in the Books of the Treasury. On each side of the said Chamber, there are two little Rooms, for four Pages of the Seferlis, who wait on the Seligdar-Aga, and are always about his person. 'Tis now time that we pass into the Grand Seignor's Quarter. CHAP. XV. Of the Grand Seignor's Apartment. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The Chamber of the Forty Pages. A noble Monument of the Valour of Amurath. The situation of the Mosqueys in Turkey. The Ceremonies of their Devotions. A Magnificent Winter-Chamber. The mysterious Seal of Mahomet. The great Superstitions of the Turks. A fantastic, and covetous knack of Devotion. The Relics of Omar. A ridiculous Sect. The Grand Seignor's Quarter. The Emperor Amurath's Belvedere, or place of Prospect. The Excellent Wines of the Oil of Tenedos. A perfidious Act justly punished. The Fortune of a beautiful Sicilian Virgin. The Grand Seignor's Bedchamber. The ancient veneration of the Turks for Mahomet's Banner. A word farther of the Prince's Apartment. THough the inner part of the Seraglio ought properly to be divided into but two great Quarters, which are the Grand Seignor's own Quarter, and the Quarter of the Sultanesses; yet have I thought it more convenient, for the Reader's better remembrance of things, to distinguish to him the different parts, of which the former consists, answerably to its several uses: and after a large account, given of the Baths, the Treasury, the Cupbearer's Office, and the Falconry, I come now to the particular Apartment of the Grand Seignor's Person. The Hazoda is the first Structure that offers itself to your view, and 'tis by that name the Turks call the fourth and highest Class of the Ichoglans, which is the Chamber The Chamber of the Forty Pages. of the Forty Pages, who are hourly employed in the Grand Seignor's Service. This Chamber is of the same largeness, as that of the Pages of the Treasury, and furnished much after the same rate; but it is not near so lightsome, or rather, it wants light. As there is not so great a number of them, so have they accordingly more place to sit, or lie down; and in the midst of the Chamber, you find a little square place, raised up somewhat higher than the Beds of the Pages, whence the Hazodabachis, their Governor, may observe all their actions, and see how they demean themselves. He has order to give the Grand Seignor notice of it, Rewards being the consequences of good actions, as chastisements are, of bad ones; and it is also incumbent upon him, to make speedy provision of all the things they stand in need of. Over the Door of that Chamber, these words, La Illa Hé Illa, etc. whereof I have often made mention, are engraved in large golden Letters; and at the four corners, are the Names of Mahomet's four Companions, Ebou-beker, Omar, Osman, and Ali, engraved in like manner in black Marble. When the Grand Seignor has made a Bassa, and that he is to take his leave of his Highness, to go to his Government, he comes out at that Door, where all those names are engraved, and as soon as he is come out, he turns his face again to the Door, and kisses the Threshold of it, with great humility. As soon as you are come into the Chamber, you find on the right hand several words of the Law, written, and enchased, in guilt squares, and one of these Writings is, of Sultan Achmet's, the Father of Amurath. On the left hand, you find, fastened to the Wall, a Coat of Mail, a Head-piece, and a great Buckler; it is one of A noble Monument of Amurath's Valour. the Monuments of Amurath's Valour. During the Siege of Bagdet, or Babylon, a Persian coming out of the City, and challenging any one of the Besiegers to meet him, that Prince, one of the most courageous and strongest men of his age, would needs receive him himself, without any other Arms, than a Sabre in his hand, though the Persian was armed from head to foot. Amurath who was not only a prodigious Person as to strength, and valour, but also well skilled in the use of a Weapon, afforded him not the time to consider whom he had to deal withal, but immediately gave him such a furious blow with the Sabre, over the right shoulder, that he cut his coat of Mail quite to the Middle of his Body, and left him dead upon the place. Opposite to the Hazoda, or the Chamber of the forty Pages, there is a Gallery of a considerable length, and particularly remarkable for its Structure. It is open on both sides, and has, of each, a row of white Marble-Pillars; but it is built after the Serpentine fashion, and they who walk in it are, every six paces, out of sight one of the other. There are, under this Gallery four great Presses, to put up the accoutrements of the four Officers, who are always about the Grand Seignor's Person, to wit, the Seligdar-Aga, the Chokadar-Aga, the Requabdar-Aga, and the Hazodabachis, of whom I have spoken at the beginning of this Relation, when I gave a List of the Grandees of the Port. This Gallery, of so fantastic and so extraordinary a Structure, is not far from that The situation of the Mosques in Turkey. other, which is a continued ascent, and whereof I made mention in the precedent Chapter. Opposite to this last, there is a Mosquey, of the middle sort, as to the largeness, the length of it somewhat exceeding its breadth, and it stands North and South, a situation the Turks observe in all their Mosqueys, which are always turned towards Mecha, which place is Meridional to all the Provinces of the Empire. There is in the Wall, opposite to the South, a kind of Niche, which they call Mihrab, into which the Iman, who is their Priest, gets up, to say Prayers at the accustomed hours, and the Grand Seignor is present thereat, with the forty Pages of the Hazoda, in a little Room, the Window whereof is opposite to the Niche. On both sides of the said Niche, there is a Gallery sustained by five Pillars, some whereof are of green Marble, and the rest of Porphyry. And in the Mosquey, and in the Chamber, or Room, into which the Grand Seignor comes to do his Devotions, and in the two Galleries, there's no going but upon rich Carpets. You are not to look for aught of painting there; nor have the Walls any other Ornament, than that of the whiteness of the Marble, whereof they are built. But there are a great many Writings, in large Arabic Characters, enchased in gilt Borders, hanging up in several places, and those Writings contain only things taken out of the Law of Mahomet. The Window of the Chamber, into which the Grand Seignor comes to do his Devotions, is six foot in length, and three foot high, and has a Lattice, with a Curtain behind it, as it is in several Chapels, which our Christian Princes have in their Palaces. There is also opposite to the same Niche, beforementioned, such another Window, and such another Chamber, for the Sultanesses, and when the Muezim, whose station is of one side of the Iman, and who is as it were his Clerk, hears the drawing of the Curtains, he immediately rings a small Bell, which is the signal, that the Grand Seignor and the Sultanesses are come into their several Rooms. Upon their arrival, the foresaid Muezim gins to sing these two words, Allabu Ekber, The Ceremonies of their Devotions. which signifies, God is Great, repeating them four times: and afterwards, having added thereto some words, speaking as 'twere to himself, the Iman in his turn, sings these following; Elhamdu lillahi Rabbil alemijn, that is to say, The Grace of God is the Master of all things. He thus continues the Prayer, prostrating himself several times to the ground, and all the people present do also prostrate themselves as he does. In the midst of the Domo of the Mosquey, there is a Hoop of Iron, all about which there hangs a great number of Lamps, of Venice-Crystal, and there are also some disposed along the Galleries, of the same Metal, they being not permitted to have in their Mosqueys, either Gold or Silver. They do not light those Lamps, but only for the Prayers at night, and the fire casting a reflection on those Crystals, creates a most delightful Object to the sight. The Chamber of the Sarai-Agasi, one of the four principal Eunuches, is adjoining to that Mosquey, and the least of all the Chambers, of the Officers, belonging to the Inner-part of the Seraglio. He has but little place more than is requisite for him to sleep in, and he is waited on by two Pages of the Couchouk-Oda, or the little Chamber. Adjoining to the Door of the Hazoda, there is a Hall paved with a Checquer-work, of black and white Marble, in the midst whereof there is a Basin of the same material, but of several colours, out of which there is an ascent of water four or five foot high. That water is received into a second Basin, made in the form of a Scallop-shell, out of which it falls again into a third, much larger than the two precedent ones. The upper-part of the Hall is built Domo-wise, having therein some Windows, which give it light, and a certain piece of dull painting is all the Ornament of its Walls. At your entrance into this Hall, you see two Doors, one on the right hand, the other, on the left. That on the left hand conducts to a Flower-Garden; and the other is the door of a Chamber, into which the Grand Seignor comes, sometimes, in the Winter-season. This Chamber is one of the most sumptuous of any in the Seraglio. It's arched A magnificent Winter-Chamber. Roof is divided into a great number of little Cells, Trianglewise, distinguished by two little fillets of Gold, with a green streak in the midst, and rout of every Angle, there juts somewhat like the bottom of a Lamp, excellently well gilded. Though the Walls are of a curious white Marble, yet is there a delicate piece of Wainscotage, of about the height of a man's waste, carried quite round the Room, and the rich Carpets, upon which you walk, deprive your sight of the large squares of Marble, of several colours, wherewith the Floor is embellished. Of a great number of Cushions, which are placed along the Walls, some are embroidered with Pearls, and precious Stones, and set there only for ostentation; the others, which are for service, are covered with Gold, or Silver-brocadoes, and other costly Stuffs. At one of the corners of the Chamber, there is a little Field-bed, about two foot in height, embroidered all over, the Counterpane, the Cushions, and the Quilt; and that Embroidery is all of Pearls, Rubies, and Emeralds. But when the Grand Seignor is to come into that Chamber, they take away the Counterpane and Cushions, which are less fit for Service than for Ornament, and they bring in others of quilted or tufted Velvet, or Satin, upon which the Grand Seignor may more conveniently repose himself. Towards the feet of the said Bed, there is a kind of Niche made within the very Mahomet's Mysterious Seal. Wall, in which there is a little Ebony Box, about half a foot square, and in that is locked up Mahomet's Seal. It is enchased in a Crystal, with a Bordure of Ivory, and taking all together, it may be four inches in length, and three in breadth. I have seen the Impression of it upon a piece of Paper; but he who showed it me, would not suffer me to touch it, only upon this score, that he looked on it as a great Relic. Once in three months this Chamber is made clean, and the Carpets are changed, the Pages of the Treasury being employed in that Office. And then it is, that the Chasnadar-bachi opens the Box, and having in his hands an embroidered Handkerchief, he takes out the Seal, with great respect and reverence, whilst the Senior of the Pages holds a golden Cup, garnished with Diamonds and blue Saphires, on the top of which there is a kind of Perfuming-Pot, out of which there comes an exhalation of all sorts of sweet Scents, whereby the whole Room is in a manner embalmed. The Page holds that Cup in both his hands joy'nd together, and lifting it up higher than his Head, all those that are present immediately prostrate themselves to the ground, as an acknowledgement of their veneration. As soon as they are up again, the Page brings down the Cup, lower than his chin, and the principal Officer of the Treasury, holding the Seal over the smoke, all those who are in the Room, come and kiss the Crystal which covers one of the most precious Relics, that they have of their Prophet. I have used all the endeavours I could, to get out of my two Officers of the Treasury, who had often kissed that Crystal, what Observations they might have made, as to the material whereof the Seal was made, and what Letters were engraved upon it; but they told me, and by reason of the smoke and the Crystal, which covers the Seal, not to insist on the small time they have to observe it, during the act of kissing it, it is not possible that any one can give a certain judgement of either the Stuff, or the Engraving of it. Upon the fourteenth day of the Ramazan, that is to say, the Lent of the Turks, the Grand Seignor comes in person into that Chamber, accompanied only by the Seligdar-Aga, and taking off the Crystal, which lies over the Seal, he delivers it into his hands, ordering him to make the Impression of it upon fifty little bits of Paper, which are not much bigger than the Seal itself. This Impression is taken off with a certain gummy Ink, which is prepared in a Porcelain Dish, whereinto he thrusts his finger, and rubs the Seal with it, and keeps all those Printed Papers, for the use, to which his Highness designs them, as we shall see, ere we come to the end of this Chapter. Within the same Chamber, and adjoining to the place, where the Seal is kept, The great Superstition of the Turks. there is another Box or Coffer, of a larger size, covered with a Carpet of green Velvet, with a great fringe of Gold and Silver, wherein is kept Mahomet's Hirka. It is a Garment with large sleeves, of a white Camlet, made of Goat's hair, which the Turks do also look upon as a great Relic. The Grand Seignor having taken it out of the Coffer, kisses it with much respect and puts it into the hands of the Capi-Aga, who is come into the Room by his Order, after they had taken the Impressions of the Seal. The Officer sends to the Overseer of the Treasury, for a large golden Cauldron, which is brought in thither by some of the Senior-Pages. It is so capacious, according to the description which they gave me of it, as to contain the sixth part of a Tun, and the outside of it is garnished, in some places, with Emeralds, and Turquezes. This Vessel is filled with water within six fingers breadth of the brink, and the Capi-Aga, having put Mahomet's Garment into it, and left it to soak a little while, takes it out again, and wrings it hard, to get out the water it had imbibed, which falls into the Cauldron, taking great care, that there falls not any of it to the ground. That done, with the said water he fills a great number of Venice-crystal Bottles, containing about half a pint, and when he has stopped them, he Seals them with the Grand Seignor's Seal. They afterwards set the Garment a drying, till the twentieth day of the Ramazan, and then his Highness comes to see them put up again in the Coffer. The next day after that Ceremony, which is the fifteenth after their grand Fast, A ridiculous and covetous knack of Devotion. the Sultan sends to the Sultanesses, and the Grandees of Constantinople, as also to most of the considerable Bassa's of the Empire, to each of them, an Impression of the Seal, in a little scrip of Paper rolled up, and well fastened with Silk, and with that, one of those Bottles full of water, which is looked upon as a great favour. But it proves a very dear favour to those who receive it, and for a scrip of Paper, and a Glass of water, they must send back again to the Grand Seignor very considerable Presents, not accounting what they bestow on those persons, who bring, from him, those testimonies and marks of his Affection. It is to be observed also, That the Capi-Aga is allowed to multiply the said Water, as far as he thinks requisite, and answerably to his desire of multiplying the Presents. All he has to do, is only to fill up the Cauldron, as it is emptied, and that additional water is as good as 'twas before, since it is intermixed with that wherein Mahomet's Garment had been soaked. For there are many persons, to whom he sends those Bottles, without the impression of the Seal, upon the little piece of paper, and he has a snack out of all that is bestowed on the Bearers of those Presents. But he is not permitted to make that multiplication of the Water, any longer than for the space of three days; that is to say, till the Seventeenth of the Ramazan, after which time, the additional intermixture of it would not have the Virtue, which they imagine it has. As soon as this Present is received by those to whom it is sent, they take the paper, which has the impression of Mahomet's Seal, and, after they have left it to soak a little while in the Water of the little Crystal bottle, they take off the water and the paper, swallowing down both together with great devotion. But it is to be noted, That no body must be so presumptuous as to open that paper; for they swallow it down as it is brought to them, after a little soaking in the water, they being not permitted to see the impression of the sacred Seal: And they, who receive only the bottle, without the paper, send for one of their Imen, who are as 'twere their Priests, and get him to write down these words in another piece of paper, Lafoy he Illa, Alla hull, vahidul gebbar, That is to say, There is no other God than God, the punisher of Crimes. There are others, who order these words to be writ down; La Illa hé Illa, Allahul meliquid vehhab; which signifies, There is no other God than God alone, the Liberal Emperor, and Pardoner of Offences. The paper, having these words written upon it, is put into the water of the little Bottle, and so they swallow down both together, with a strong persuasion, that those words have the same virtue, as the impression of the Seal. There is also to be seen, in the same Chamber, a very homely kind of Cutlass, hanging The Relics of Omar. by the Wall, near the place where the Prophet's Seal and Garment are kept. The Scabbard is covered with Green cloth, and they have it by Tradition, that it had been the Cutlass of Omar, one of Mahomet's four Companions, who governed after him, though Ebou-Bequer was the elder of the two, and Father-in-law to Mahomet. The Arabians affirm, That Ebou-Bequer was a Jew, by extraction, and one of the most learned of his time; and that, having renounced the Mosaic Law, he taught at Mecha, in the Schools, after which he beset himself to compose some part of the Alcoran. Near the Cutlass, there is also to be seen a kind of short Sword, for which they have, in like manner, a great veneration, upon a persuasion, that it some time was the Sword of a certain person named Ebou-Nislum, with which he cut to pieces, those, who had spread a Heresy in the Law of Mahomet. He came not into the World till Four hundred years after the death of the Prophet, and at length destroyed that Sect, which during the space of two Ages before, had given much trouble to the true Mahometans, and gained several Battles against them. The said Sect was grown very powerful under the denomination of Muharriguu, and I have met with some remainders of it in the Mountains of Churdistan, which is the A ridiculous Sect. ancient Chaldea. Those people are very remarkable for their superstition, and much more for their ignorance; and a man must have a great care of striking a black Dog, in their presence, or cutting an Onion with a Knife; for their way, when they are to eat an Onion, is to crush it between two stones. The cause of that gross ignorance, is their not having any person among them, to instruct them; and a man may travel five or six day's Journey in their Country, and not meet with either a Mollah, or a Mosquey. The same reason may also be given for their being, for the most part, uncircumcised, and that they who have received Circumcision, had it not till they were Twelve or fifteen years of age, and that accidentally, by going to some place at a great distance, to find out a Mollah, and defraying the charges of their Friends and Relations, who must accompany them to that ceremony. Between the Chamber, where these noble Relics are to be seen, and that of the The Grand Seignor's Quarter. Forty Pages, of which I have given an account at the beginning of this Chapter, you have the Prospect of a triple portal of Porphyry, that is, three doors at a small distance one from the other, whereof that in the middle gives entrance into the Grand Seignor's Apartment. The two others lead to the Lodgings of the Chokadar-Aga, and the Biquabdar-Aga, and those Lodgings are very dark, because they are not in a place where light can be brought into them, and that at the first building thereof, they could afford each of them but one little Window. But, abating that inconvenience, they are well enough furnished, according to the mode of the Country, you tread on nothing but Silken Carpets; there's no want of Brokado-Cushions, and emboydered ones, and the Walls, which are all of White Marble, entertain the Eye with pots of Flowers plainly painted, at certain equal distances, about which there has been an ingenious application of Gold and Azure. The Grand Seignor's Quarter gins with a Hall, which is spacious enough, and the embellishments of the inside of it are correspondent to those of the outside. It is an incrustation of Marble, of several colours, and the Floor of it is covered only with the large Woollen Carpets, which are brought out of Persia, but such as are more sumptuous, and much more highly esteemed, than those which are made of Silk. All about the Hall, for the space of Five foot, there are spread Coverlets of Silk, of a light colour, some Tufted, some Embroidered, and upon the Coverlets there are several sorts of Rich Cushions, four foot in length, and between two and three, in breadth. Of the two Doors, which are within the Hall, one goes to the Apartment of the Pages, the other to the Quarter of the Sultanesses, and as you go out by this last Amurath's Belvedere. mentioned, you enter into a Flower-Garden, in the midst whereof there is a Basin with its waterwork. From one of the ends of the Garden you pass to the Revan-Kouchki, that is to say, a Chamber supported by Pillars. It is a Belvedere, or spacious Room, having a delightful Prospect of all sides, which the Sultan Amurath caused to be built, at his return from the Persian War, after he had taken the City of Babylon from Shach-Sefi, the King of that Kingdom, ruin'd the Province of Tauris, and added that of Erivan to his Conquests, by the perfidiousness of the Governor. I shall give you an account anon, how he was justly punished, for that act of Treachery, and I reserve the complete history of his baseness, for the Relations of my Travels. This Room, or Arbour, which we call the Belvedere, from the delightfulness of its Prospect, is built in an Eminent place, upon a steepy Rock. It is a noble Arched Roof, and the Walls, which are raised no higher than that a man may rest his Elbow on them, are all of White Marble, with some Arabian Verses thereon, cut, and gilt. It is open of all sides, and the Lattices, all about it, hinder those that are within it from being seen by such as are on the outside, and afford them withal one of the most delicate Prospects in the World. For, from that Room, they have the sight of all Galata and Pera, all that pleasant Landscape of Asia, about Scutaret, and Chalcedon, the Port of Constantinople, one of the noblest of all Europe, and the Channel of the Black Sea, which, at the point of the Seraglio, is intermixed with the Waters of the Mediterranean, where there is observable in the midst, as it were, a white foamy streak, which seems naturally to denote the Confines of Europe and Asia. 'Twas in this pleasant Arbour, that Amurath was often wont to divert himself, with The Excellent Wines of Tenedos. that Governor of Erivan, who had taught him to drink Wine, whereto he had so easily accustomed himself, that, many times, he spent three days together, in a continued debauch. The only Wine he drunk was that of the Island of Tenedos, the most excellent of any of the Islands of the Archiphelago, and the least intoxicating; and he soon became as good a proficient in the drinking of it, as the Master, who had taught him to do it. This Persian Governor was a man extremely inclined to debauchery, insomuch that before his perfidious delivery of the place to Amurath, as I passed through Erivan, in one of my Voyages to Persia, he entreated me to make my abode there for the space of fifteen days, and, to humour him, there was a necessity of spending whole nights in drinking, so that I saw him not all the day long, which I question not but he employed in the management of his affairs, and taking his repose. But, at the long run, lewd actions meet with the punishment they justly deserve. Persidiousness punished. Shach-Sefi, King of Persia, would not entertain any proposition of Peace, no nor so much as give audience to an Ambassador from the Grand Seignor, whom I saw sent back from Ispahan, where I than was, unless Amurath would deliver up the Traitor, in order to his punishment. Whereupon, they being both one day at their ordinary debauch, in the Belvedere, the Grand Seignor, without any formality, ordered him to be Strangled, in his presence. It was sometimes also Amurath's custom, to bring into that pleasant place, the The Fortune of a beautiful Sicilian Lady. Principal Sultanesses, as, his Mothers, his Sisters, and such others as he had the greatest kindness for. But his most frequent assignations there, was with a Sicilian Lady, for whom he had a great affection, and who, being extremely handsome, and of a mild disposition, obtained of him whate'er she desired. She was taken at Sea, by the Pirates of Barbary, as she was upon her Voyage into Spain, in order to her intermarriage with one of the Grandees of that Country: And the Bassa of Algiers sent her, a Present, to the Grand Seignor, who took a particular fancy for her, and made her as happy, as a Woman can be, who must endure the restraint of the Seraglio. From that door of the Hall, which gives entrance into the Flower-garden, you pass, The Grand Seignor's Bedchamber. on the right hand, into a kind of Gallery, about fifty paces in length, and twelve in breadth, the pavement whereof is a Chequerwork of Black and White Marble. At the end of it, there is a great Structure, which is wholly of Marble, and what first entertains the Eye is a pretty large Door, over which there is a kind of a flat arched Roof. And both the Roof, and the Door, are adorned with flowers, in embossed work; and amongst those flowers, there are certain impresses cut in the Marble, and all curiously Gilt. About five or six paces from that Door, you come to another, not inferior to it, as to beauty, which is that of the Grand Seignor's own Chamber. It's Ceiling, or arched Roof, is according to the model of the Winter-room, whereof I have given you a Description at the beginning of this Chapter. The only difference between them is, in what issues out of the Angles of the little Arches; and whereas in the other Room, they represent the bottoms of Lamps, gilded with Gold; in this, they are balls of Rock-crystal, cut Facet-wise, with an intermixture of precious stones, of different colours, which must needs give a very divertive entertainment to the Eye. The floor of it is covered with Carpets, which, as to beauty, and excellency of Workmanship, exceed those of the other Chambers; and the same thing is to be said, as to the Quilts, the Counterpanes, and the Cushions; the most part of this furniture being adorned with an embroidery of Pearls, and the whole Room, which is very spacious, having, in all parts, several other sumptuous embellishments. And whereas this Room was Originally designed for the Grand Seignor's Summer-Divertisement, it is accordingly the more lightsome, and has large Windows on three sides of it. As to the Sultan's Lodging, he complies with the custom of the Country, or rather that of all the Eastern parts. There is no Bedstead set up, but towards the Evening, the Pages spread three Quilts one upon the other, at one of the corners of the Chamber, and place over it a Canopy of Cloth of Gold, garnished with an embroidery of Pearls. On the right hand, as you come into this Room, there is a Cupboard, or Press, The ancient Veneration for Mahomet's Standard. wrought within the very Wall, where they keep the Bajarac, that is to say, the Standard of Mahomet, which has these words for its Impress, or Motto, Nasrum min Allah, that is, in our Language, The assistance is from God. This Standard was heretofore in so great veneration amongst the Turks, that when there happened any Sedition, either at Constantinople, or in the Armies, there was no safer or more expeditious remedy to appease it, then to expose that Standard to the sight of the Rebels. And that very Expedient has many times proved very fortunate to the Ottoman Princes, when they have been reduced to their great extremities, by the secret Combinations of some Factious persons. Then does the Grand Seignor send some of the Mullahs, who are in the nature of Priests, amongst the Turks, with the Standard, and being come up to the first ranks of the Rebellious Forces, they speak to them, in their Language, to this effect: This Banner is the Standard of the Prophet; all they who are faithful, and obedient, aught to come to submit themselves at the Foot of this Standard; and they who will not come to it, are Unbelievers, and they ought to be destroyed. But some years since, the Turks made it appear, that they made but little account of that Standard; for Hassan, one of the Bassa's, who gave the Grand Seignor so much trouble in the year 1658. turned his back on Mahomet's Banner, and, followed by his own party, compassed the design he was engaged in. Out of the Grand Seignor's Chamber, there is a passage into a great Hall, the place appointed for the reception of the Pages who approach his Person; and there is adjoining A word further of the Prince's Apartment. to it a Bath, which is filled by three Cocks, where they wash themselves, when they go to their Devotions. Out of the same Hall, there is an ascent of some steps, which brings you to a small Closet, only Wainscoted about, but well Painted, and well Gilt. That Staircase is always covered with a red Cloth, the Room is open of all sides, having fair Windows, wherein Talc is used, instead of Glass; and from thence you have, in a manner, the same Prospect, as from the Belvedere, built by the Emperor Amurath. CHAP. XVI. Of the ordinary employments of the Grand Seignor; The particular inclinations of the Emperour-Regent, Mahomet IU. And the present State of the Ottoman Family. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. Some inclinations common to all the Monarches of the Eastern-parts. The Life of the Seraglio, delicious to one single person, and incommodious to many. The mahumetans zealous observers of their Law. The regulated times of their public Devotions. The ordinary Employments of the Grand Seignor. How his Table is served. The Sultan, when obliged to go, in Ceremony, to the Mosquey. The wicked contrivances of the Moufti, to get money. The present State of the Ottoman Family. An extraordinary example of a Father and Son, who were successively Grand Viziers. The portraiture of the Sultan-Regent, Mahomet. The ancient Custom of the Turkish Emperors, to live by their labour. The Grand Seignor's subtlety, in revenging himself of the Moufti. THE Ottoman Monarches, and generally all the Princes of Asia, what reputation soever they may have gained, for their valour, have always been guilty Inclinations common to the Eastern Monarches. of a bent to voluptuousness, and effeminacy, and found great charms in a slothful kind of life. They come out of their Seraglios as seldom as they can, and that only, when an indispensable necessity forces them to show themselves in public, whether it be at the head of their Armies, or in those Ceremonies, wherein the Law, or common Civilities, require their presence. True it is, that some of them were not so great lovers of retirement as others, and preferred the hardships of War, the divertisements of Hunting, before the blandishments of ease, and the conversation of Women: But those may be reduced into a very small number, and the greatest part of them being more addicted to mind their quiet, and to lead a life void of disturbance, have transferred all their concerns, Civil and Military, to the management of the principal Minister of State, thinking it enough, to content themselves with the account he was pleased to give him thereof. It may be said of the Seraglio, That it is a delicious, but withal a solitary place of The Seraglio, a place delicious to one single person, and incommodious to many. abode: but as to the observations I have made of things, it is delicious only to a single person, and solitary to all the rest. Of the many Thousands, of the Male Sex, who are there as 'twere in Prison, and have a dependence, one upon the other, none but the Prince himself has the sight of Women; for the Negro-eunuches, whom their deformity of body and countenance has, in a manner, transformed into Monsters, are not to be admitted into the number of men. But though the Ottoman Monarches, and generally all that may be comprehended The Mahometans zealous observers of the Law. under the denomination of Turkism, are involved in voluptuousness, as not having any tincture of aught relating to polite Literature, yet this is particularly recommendable in them, that their great pursuance of pleasures does not ever make them neglect the Divine Worship, and that, setting all things aside, they are careful to perform what the Law requires of them, upon that account. They are exact and punctual, even to superstition, in all their exercises of Piety, in their ways of washing themselves, in their Prayers, in their Fasts, in their Alms, and in their Pilgrimages; which are the Five principal Articles of the Mahometan Religion. It is a thing sufficiently well known to all people, that the Turks go to their Prayers, or Devotions, five times a day, that is, in the space of a natural Day, which The regulated times of their Devotions. amounts to four and twenty hours. For the performance of this work, there are no certain hours appointed, and it is according to the Sun's being above their Horizon. Upon which account, there is a greater interval between their several Offices, in the Summertime, than there is in the Winter, and they place the principal part of their Devotion upon observations of that nature. The first Exercise is to be performed at the break of day, before Sunrising; the second at Noon; the third, between that time and Sunset; the fourth, immediately after his setting; and the last, about an hour and a half after Night: in all which, unless sickness intervene, they are very punctual, so that nothing of business, how important soever, shall divert them. Nay, on the contrary, some are so zealous, and their fervour is so remarkable, that Their fervour in acts of Devotion. being once fixed in their Prayers, they could not be put out of them, though 'twere to force back an Enemy, who were entering into the City, or that word should be brought them, that the house wherein they are, was on fire. They are moreover of a persuasion, that it is a great sin, for them to put their hand to any part of the body, to scratch themselves, if there should be occasion; and they would have the external part to be answerable to the internal, and correspondent to that abjection, which ought to be the state of the Soul, in the presence of God, during their Exercises of Devotion. Nor does the Grand Seignor himself desire to be dispensed from the obligation of The Grand Seignor's ordinary Employments. performing these acts of Devotion, any more than the meanest of his Subjects; but, on the contrary, he is very religious in that observance of their Law, and he always gins the day with the Offices appointed for that part of it. We need say no more, than that he rises at the break of day, nay sometimes he is up before, and goes into the Bath to wash himself, especially when he has lain with one of his Wives, or Concubines. Having finished his Prayers, he diverts himself in shooting with the Bow, or, more commonly in looking after his Horses, and riding some of them: and sometimes he seats himself in a Gallery, where he cannot be seen by any, and contents himself with the diversion of seeing some exercises performed by his Pages. If any one of them does something that he is much pleased withal, he sends him a Vest, or some other thing of value, as an encouragement for his doing better another time, and to raise an emulation in his Companions. Upon Council-days, he comes through the close Gallery, to the Window, which looks into the Divan Hall, to see what they are doing there; and upon the rising of the Council, he returns to his own Quarter, where his Dinner is brought up to him. In the Services of his Table, there is not any great variety, or delicacy, the Dishes that are served up, being answerable to the Bill of fare, which I have given you in The Services of his Table. the Chapter, where I treat of the Kitchens. He takes his refection, sitting, crosslegged, as Tailors do amongst us, being surrounded with sumptuous Brocado-cushions, which keep from him the dampness of the Walls, and upon the Carpets which cover the Scaffold, or Balcony, where he is seated, they spread others of Spanish-Leather, lest the former should be prejudiced by any thing of greasiness, which might fall on the Tablecloth, and soak through it. This Cloth, which is laid over the Spanish-Leather-Carpet, is of those sumptuous painted clothes, which are made in the Indies, and embroidered all about: and as for Napkins, there are not any used amongst the Turks, who are neat, and cleanly at their Meals; and if sometimes there be any occasion of wiping, 'tis done with a little handkerchief. At their refections, they use the right hand only, and when they have done, there is a Basin of warm water and soap brought up, for them to wash, and every one takes out his Handkerchief from under his Sasch, or Girdle, to wipe his hands and mouth. Nor must you expect in Turkey to find Knives and Forks laid on the Table, but every one has his Knife lodged in his Sasch, and makes use of, when occasion requires: but they have no great use for them, inasmuch as their Bread, being made thin, as 'twere into Cakes, and eaten in a manner as soon as 'tis out of the Oven, they break it with their fingers, and all the meat, which is served up to them, is cut into small pieces, which is also the custom in Persia. But the Spoons they use, in taking their Pottages, and whatever is liquid upon the Table, are much larger than ours; and they are wooden ones. The Pages of the Kilar, that is the Cupbearers Office, bring up the Bread, and the Sherbets, and the Pages of the Chamber go and take the Meat, at the Prince's Apartment, out of the hands of the Officers belonging to the Kitchen, who bring it in Dishes covered with Porcelain, the Grand Seignor not using any Gold Vessels at his own Table. After Dinner, the Grand Seignor says his Noon-Prayer, and sometimes, on Sundays and Tuesdays, which are the principal Council-days, he comes into the Hall of Audience, to discourse with his Ministers of State, concerning his Affairs. On the other days, he walks in the Gardens of the Seraglio, sometimes with his Eunuches, sometimes with the Sultanesses, or with his Dwarves and Mutes, who show a thousand apish tricks, to divert him: and sometimes he goes a hunting, or a fishing, according to his inclination. But neither his Affairs, nor his Recreations, do ever divert him from performing the five Exercises of Devotion, at the times appointed by the Alcoran; and it is the general Persuasion of all the Turks, that if they neglect them, they bring down God's curse upon themselves, and that they cannot avoid the ill consequences thereof. I have said elsewhere, that Friday is to the Mahometans, what the Saturday is to the The Sultan, when obliged to go, in Ceremony, to the Mosquey. Jews, and the Sunday to the Christians, in regard it was upon the said day, that Mahomet took his flight from Mecha; and I have also given this further intimation, that the Turks count their Months only by the number of the Moons. There is an ancient Custom, whereby the Grand Seignor is obliged upon all the first Fridays of the several Moons, to go to the new Mosquey, in regard that S. Sophia is too near the Seraglio, and besides that there is not, between those places, room enough for so great a Train, as that of the Sultan, the people of Constantinople would not have the satisfaction of seeing him. His Devotion is so great, that he seldom misses that Ceremony, and when there passes a first Friday of the month, without his appearance in it, the people is presently of opinion, that he is sick, and thereupon turbulent spirits are mutining their factious designs. On those days do they, who have any complaints to make, of some injustice that has been done them, take their opportunity, and plant themselves in the way, through which he is to pass, with Petitions in their hands, which upon a sign made by the Sultan, are received by the Eunuches. If the injustice be very great and the person who presents the Petition be extremely oppressed and injured, he holds a lighted Torch over his head, which is ordinarily practised in Turkey, upon the like occasions, and by that mysterious comportment, intimates to the Prince, That if he does not do him justice, his Soul shall burn in the other World, as that Torch does in this. Upon the Emperor's going out of the Seraglio, the principal Sultanesses, his Mother, his dearest Comfort, or his Sisters, are in a Room over the great Gate of that Palace, with Bags full of Asper's, which they fling among the people, that they may pray, That God would graciously hearken to the Devotions, which the Grand Seignor is going to perform. His March is after the same Order, and with an observance of the Pomp, as that of the ancient Greek Emperors, and I question not, but that those Authors, who have written of the Ottoman Empire in general, or particularly of the City of Constantinople, have made sufficient descriptions of that Ceremony, and therefore I shall think myself dispensed from the obligation of giving a new one of it. I shall only say this of it, That it is very Magnificent, and that there is not any Monarch in the World, who makes so great an exposal of Gold and precious Stones together, wherewith the Harnesses and Trappings of most of the Horses, as well of the Grand Seignor, as those of the Bassa's are all covered. At their return from the Mosquey, the Moufti, on Horseback, and at the head of a The wicked contrivances of the Moufti, to get Money. wretched Crew of Greek Christians, of the meanest sort of people (for there are very few Armenians among them) expect the Grand Seignor, at the Gates of the Seraglio, and telling his Highness, That those people were Misbelievers, who had embraced the good Law, entreat him to relieve them, and to make some provision for their livelihood. Upon this exhortation, the Sultan order twenty or thirty Purses to be distributed amongst them; nay sometimes his Charity is so great, as to amount to twenty thousand Crowns, which are received by the Moufti, and the distribution thereof is made, as he pleases. But the greater part of it he converts to his own use, and holds an infamous correspondence with most of that wretched Crew, who though they often present themselves for that Benevolence, he pretends not to have any knowledge of at all. By this Imposture, which is so palpable, and suits well enough with the followers of Mahomet, does that High Priest of the Mahometan Law, put yearly into his Purse, a considerable Sum of Money, which is no small augmentation to his Revenue. But the case is the same with him as with the Bassa's: that is, he is not exempted from refunding, and we shall, by and by produce a very late Example of it. And this may serve for a general account of the ordinary lives of the Ottoman Monarches, while they are within the Seraglio. In their Armies, they have other Employments, especially they, who have Military Souls, as there have been some among them, of whom Histories have given us a very noble Character. I come now to the present state of the Ottoman Family, and to the particular inclinations The present State of the Ottoman Family. of the Grand Seignor, who now Reigns. Mahomet, the Fourth of that Name, the Son of Ibrahim, and a Circassian Lady, was born in the Year 1643. and he is, by that account, got into the Thirty fourth year of his Age, and the Twenty fourth of his Reign. He has two Brothers, Bajazet, and Orchan, but they are by another Mother, who is still living, and is perpetually studying how to preserve them. He has also a third Brother, named Solyman, who is the second of the Sons of Ibrahim, according to the order of their Nativities. But the Mother of the last mentioned Son is dead; and thence it comes, that the Soldiery, who conceive greater hopes of that Prince, than of either Bajazet, or Orchan, his Brethren, pity him the more, and have the greater affection for him, upon that very score of his having lost the support, which he might have expected from a Mother. Ever since the time of Bajazet the Second, who first introduced that inhuman and cruel Custom, of securing the Throne of the Sultan-Regent, by the death of his Brethren, few of those unfortunate Princes have escaped the Barbarism of their Elder-Brother, and they, amongst them, who have been treated with somewhat less of inhumanity, have pined away their lives, in a strict and doleful Imprisonment, being not permitted to see any body. This was the Treatment of Ibrahim, the Father of Mahomet, during the Reign of Amurath, his Brother, the Son of Achmet, by Kiosem, a Woman of Excellent parts, and well versed in the management of Affairs. Mahomet's Brothers are now treated after the same rate, and the Mother of Bajazet and Orchan, uses all the endeavours she can, to secure to them the affections of the great Officers of the Port, and the Janissaries, who are somewhat disgusted with the capricious humour, and extraordinary covetousness of Mahomet. This Prince was advanced to the Throne in the Year 1650. after the death of Ibrahim, his Father, who was strangled by the Janissaries, in a Sedition. He being then but Seven years of age, the Regency was bestowed, during his minority, on the Old Sultaness, Mother to Ibrahim, who soon after abused her authority, and raised a dangerous Faction against her Grandchild, Mahomet, wherein she lost her life. The present Grand Seignor, who is a Person much addicted to his Pleasures, and An extraordinary Example of a Father and Son successively Grand Viziers. takes a particular diversion, in Hunting, leaves the management of Affairs to his Grand Vizir, Achmet, who has succeeded Coprogli, his own Father, in that principal Charge of the Empire. 'Tis a thing which may well pass for a Prodigy, amongst the Turks, and such as that there has not yet been any example of it seen, as perhaps there will not be any other hereafter. I have shown, that it is a thing absolutely contrary to their Politics; and therefore, had it not been for the great and particular obligations, which the Empire had to Coprogli, who, on the other side, cunningly represented to the Grand Seignor, that he never durst trust any but his own Son, with the Secret of Affairs, whereof he only had the Key, this very Achmet, who, next to the Sultan, is the Principal Person of the Empire, would have been, at present, but a simple Bey, or Captain of a Galley. The Grand Seignor Mahomet is handsome enough as to his Person, his Stature somewhat The Portraiture of Mahomet IU. the present Prince. exceeding that of the middle sort of persons; he has not too much corpulency, and his health is in an uncertain state. He is very much troubled with a Fall, which he received, in the violence of his Game, some years since, by leaping his Horse over a broad Ditch: And whereas that passion is still predominant in him, this inconvenience attends it, That, when he is not somewhat favourable and indulgent to himself, in that violent Exercise, he is sometimes taken off his Horse in a miserable condition, the Remedies which might be applied to that indisposition, taking no effect, by reason of the little care he takes to preserve himself. He is a person of an unconstant and unquiet disposition, which creates the greater trouble to those who wait on him; and though they study his humours, yet is it a hard matter to satisfy him. He has a Son, who has been circumcised with great solemnity, at the age, wherein that Ceremony is to be performed. The Sultaness, his Mother, a Woman of a Magnificent humour, to augment the Pomp and Splendour of that Action, to the eyes as well of the Turks, as Foreigners, would have the Garment, which the Young Prince wore that day, to be all covered with Diamonds, and, to that end, caused several Rich Pieces of the Treasury to be broken; but after the Solemnity, all the Precious Stones were carried back into it again. I said erewhile, that the present Sultan- Mahomet is extremely addicted to Hunting, and makes it so much his Darling Divertisement, that he makes less account of the lives of Men, than he does of his Dogs; and withal, that he is of a very covetous humour. I shall, in one single Example make a sufficient discovery of both those inclinations in him, and that will also further make it appear, how well he was skilled, in that Knack of exercising great Liberalities, without any deduction out of his Revenues. When the Grand Seignor goes a Hunting, there are Orders sent to a great number of people, for the space of four or five Leagues about the place where he intends to Hunt, in order to the surrounding of a certain quantity of Ground, and for the enclosing of it so well, as that nothing can escape thence. 'Tis not to be imagined, this can be done, without great destruction to the Country, and much inconvenience to the poor people, who are forced to leave their work, to carry on an Exercise which is much more toilsome than it, in which they many times come off with the loss of Limb, or Life, or some other disastrous Accident. These continual impositions of trouble and toil put many people into the repining humour, insomuch that an Eunuch, who was in favour, having, one day, taken the freedom to represent to the Grand Seignor the prejudice his Subjects underwent, by those courses which occasioned the spoiling of their Grounds, and the loss of their Lives, he grew very angry, and after some day's imprisonment, he gave him a shameful ejection out of the Seraglio. But, in process of time, the mischievous Inconveniences occasioned by this insatiable pursuance of his Pleasures in Hunting, increasing more and more, the Grand Vizir, and the other Bassa's, resolved to entreat the Moufti, to make a Remonstrance to him, of the ill consequence thereof, he being the only person, who might presume to speak any more of it to the Grand Seignor. The Moufti would by no means hearken to it at first, imagining, as he might well, that his harangue would not be pleasing to the Sultan: But, at last, being over-persuaded to do that good office to the Public, he took courage, and his opportunity, to speak to him, with all the insinuation he could. He could not bethink himself of a better Expedient, to remove that predominant The ancient Custom of the Greek Emperors, to live by their handiwork. passion out of his mind, then to represent to him, the Custom of his Predecessors, who took their diversion in some handiwork, when the War, or the Concerns of State gave them any remission: That, according to their Example, their Subjects applied themselves to things that were beneficial, and made all Arts and Professions to flourish in the Empire, to the great advantage of the Public: That Sultan- Amurath, his Uncle, delighted in making those Horn-Rings, which are used in shooting with the Longbow: That Ibrahim, his Father, was an Excellent Artist, in the making of Toothpicks, and other small Instruments of Tortoise-shell: And that it were requisite that so Laudable a Custom should not be lost, since it gave the people occasion to do the like, and so to avoid idleness. He further Remonstrated to his Highness, That it was much more commendable in the sight of men, and more acceptable to God, for him to live by the labour of his hands, then by the sweat of the people, and the Money arising by Impositions, which were forbidden by the Law: and that what was allotted for the peculiar Diet of his Predecessors, was the product of their own handiwork: That true it was indeed, they were not obliged to any assiduity in the Employments they had fancied, but that what they did was as much for their own diversion, as to satisfy the Precept of the Law; and when they had finished some piece of Work, they sent it to some Bassa, for whom they had a particular kindness, and he received it with extraordinary respect, and abundance of joy: That he, who was the Bearer of it, when he came to present it, said, That Piece of Work, was made by the Grand Seignor himself, who had sent him to sell it, in order to his own sustenance: And that the Bassa, or other person, to whom it was directed, to express how highly he was pleased therewith, gave him a certain number of Purses for it; not accounting the Present which was to be made to the Bearer: That what Money came in that way, was designed to bear the Charges of the Prince's own Table, and by that means, he could not be charged with living by the labour of his Subjects. To this effect was the Moufti's harangue; and I shall tell you by the way, That the Kings of Persia have the same Custom, or rather, the same Superstition. In the Reign of Shach-Abas, there were built, at Ispahan, certain places called Caravanseras, which are public houses, where the Merchants are lodged, the Rents whereof are set aside for the maintenance of the King's own Table; the Money which is raised by the Customs, and other Impositions, being accounted, as to that score, for Haram, that is to say, for unjust and forbidden, and reserved to be employed in the Exigencies of State, and not for the Sustenance of the Prince. The Grand Seignor dissembling and smothering the vexation, into which the Moufti's The Sultan is cunningly revenged of the Moufti. Remonstrance had put him, pretended to take his Advertisements very kindly, and disposed himself to satisfy him, in a short time, how well he could make his advantage of the Lecture he had read him. He acknowledged, that he had often thought of what he had represented to him, and that he had a way of livelihood in his head, which he hoped would take very well. Some days passed away, ere the Grand Seignor made the least mention of Hunting; but at last, he grows impatient, he leaves the Seraglio, and had the good fortune to kill a Hare with a Gun, the first he had ever destroyed that way. He immediately sends it to the Moufti, with order to tell him, That he has followed his advice, and that having learned the Procession of a Huntsman, he has commanded that first piece of his Game should be brought to him, which he was willing to sell, that he might subsist by the Money it should produce: That he fail not to give Twenty Purses to him who brings it; and that as to his own Person, he knew well enough what he ought to send him. The Moufti concealed his surprisal as well as he could, and received the Hare with great testimonies of his resentments and joy, of the honour, which his Highness had done him; and having bestowed, according to his own order, Twenty Purses upon the Bearer of the Hare, sends Sixty more to the Grand Seignor himself; learning, at his own cost, and that to the value of Fourscore thousand Crowns, that men should not be overforward to give their Sovereigns those advertisements, which they desire not of them. To finish the Portraiture of Sultan- Mahomet, he is further chargeable with a defect of constancy, in his humour, and a roughness of deportment towards his people, who are thereupon apt to have the less affection for him. And whereas he is indefatigable in his Hunting-Exercises, and spends whole days therein, even in the severest part of the Winter-Season, it happened, one day, as he was returning home, from the Sport of running down a Stag, that his Grand Falconer took the boldness to represent to him the inconvenience of exposing his Slaves so much in the Ice and Snow, by which means there had died about Thirty of them the Night before, and the rest were in a fair way to follow them. The Prince, not moved at all with that Remonstrance, made this Reply to the grand Falconer, That, if the Wether proved very hard, they should have a care of his Dogs, and allow them clothing, and other accommodations, lest the rigour of the Season might take off any one of them; making not the least mention of, or provision for the men, whom he sacrificed to his Divertisement. That rough repartee having been spread among the people, has begot such animosity in them against this Prince, that there's no question made of his being sensible thereof, and that it is, in some measure, the cause of his keeping so much at a distance, from the Metropolis of his Empire, where he does not think himself secure. CHAP. XVII. Of the women's Apartment. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The impossibility of having a full knowledge of the women's Apartment, in the Seraglio. The Commerce between the Jewesses and the Sultanesses. Sultan-Amurath. How to distinguish between what is true, and what fabulous, in reference to the Sultanesses. A strange Story of an old Woman. Polygamy prejudicial to the propagation of Children. The great Secrecy of the Grand Seignor's Amours. IMake a Chapter by itself of the Apartment of the Women, only to entertain The impossibility of having an exact account of the women's Apartment, the Reader, with the impossibility there is, of having a perfect knowledge of it, or getting any exact account, either what the accommodations of it are; or how the Persons, who are confined therein, behave themselves. There is not in all Christendom any Monastery of Religious Virgins, how regular and austere soever it may be, the entrance whereof is more strictly forbidden to men, than is that of this Apartment of the Women: insomuch that my white Eunuch, who has supplied me with so particular a description of the inner part of the Seraglio, could give me no certain information of this Quarter of it, where the Women are lodged. All I could get out of him, was, That the Doors of it are kept by Negro-eunuches, and that, besides the Grand Seignor himself, and sometimes, the Physician, in case of great necessity, there never enters any man into it, no nor Woman, besides those who live in it, and they are never permitted to go out of it, unless it be in order to their confinement in the Old Seraglio. But we must except, out of that number, the Sultanesses, and their Maids, or Ladies of Honour, whom the Grand Seignor allows, when he pleases, to come into the Gardens of the Seraglio, and whom he sometimes takes abroad with him, into the Country; yet so as that they cannot be seen by any person whatsoever. Four Negro-eunuches carry a kind of Pavilion, under which is the Sultaness, and the Horse upon which she is mounted, all save only the head of the horse, which is seen on the outside of the Pavilion, the two fore-pieces of which, taking him about the Neck, are close fastened, above, and below. And as to the Physician, he is never admitted, as I said, but in case of extreme hecessity, into the Apartment of the Women, and with such precautions, that he can neither see the person who is indisposed, nor be seen by her, but to feel her Pulse through a piece of Lawn, all the other Women having retired from her Bedside, and the Negro-eunuches having taken their places. Thus you see what precautions they use, to deprive the Women, of the Seraglio, of all means of having any access to Men, or indeed so much as a sight of them: And if it happen that some Jewess has entrance into their Quarter, to Trade with them, and to sell them some little Rarities, they are strictly searched by the Negro-eunuches, lest there should happen to thrust in some Man, disguised in Woman's clothes, in which case immediate death would ensue. And when the Curiosity of some Christian Ladies has inclined them to see the Sultanesses, they seldom escaped without the receiving of some affront; and I could produce some examples of it, did I think it convenient. It might be imagined, that, by the relation of the Jewesses, it were possible to have The Commerce between the Jewesses and the Sultanesses. some account, of the embellishments of the Halls and Chambers of the Apartment of the government of that Female Republic. But it is to be noted, That these Jewesses are not permitted to go far into it; for there is a Chamber appointed for the management of their Traffic, and the Negro-eunuches are the Brokers between them, and the Sultanesses. They take cognizance of all, and what the Princesses have a mind to buy, passing through their hands, they make them pay double and triple what the things are worth, and so heap up Wealth, though they have but little occasion or opportunity to make use of it. But I do not expect, any one should wonder at that great exactness, of not permitting any man; no not even a White Eunuch, to approach the Apartment of the Women, The doleful Story of Two Famous Wrestlers. after an Accident, which happened at Adrianople, in the Year of our Lord M. DC. XXXIX. and which I shall here insert in few words. Amurath, at his return, after the taking of Bagdet, came and made his abode, for some time, at Adrianople. He had a Page, belonging to the Treasury, who was a Native of Tocat, in Anatolia, and, from the place of his birth, they gave him the name of Tocateli. He was a well-set Young man, robust, skilful in Wrestling, and, upon that account, the Grand Seignor had made Chief of the Wrestlers. It happened, that one of the most Famous, for that Exercise, came about that time to Adrianople, out of the Confines of Muscovy, and in all the Cities, through which he travelled, he had always been too hard for those who had presented themselves to Wrestle with him. His Reputation was spread all over the Empire, where he had not met with any Wrestler, who acknowledged not himself inferior to him; Which Report coming to the Page of the Treasury, he conceived so great an emulation at the Fame of that Man, whom all the World so highly celebrated, that he sent one of the Halvagisses, to carry him a Civil Challenge from him, and to acquaint him, That he was desirous to have a Trial of Skill with him, in the Grand Seignor's Presence. He sent him word withal, That, before his Highness had any notice of it, 'twere convenient, they made some trial of their strength; And that no body might know any thing of it, he would send him a Bostangi's Garment and Cap, by which means he might come into the Seraglio. When the Grand Seignor is not within the Seraglio, where ever it be, the Bostangis are permitted to come into, and to go out of it, by the Garden-Gate; and there being a great number of them, it is no hard matter to get a man in under their accoutrements. By this contrivance did the Muscovian Wrestler get into the Seraglio, the next day, upon the solicitation of the Page, who sent him what was requisite; the Grand Seignor being, that day, gone a Hunting. They both put on Drawers of Leather, well liquored with some fat or oily stuff, all the rest of the body being stark naked, and liquored in like manner: and after a long dispute, the Page had the better, whether he got it fairly by his own strength, and skill, or that the other yielded the victory, out of complaisance. This Action passed in the midst of the place which is before the Garden, in the presence of the Mutes, and all the Pages of the Seraglio; and the Grand Seignor being returned from Hunting, the Superintendent of the Treasury told him, That there was come into the City, a Pehlivan, a Muscovite by Country, robust, and of a good mien, of great strength, and well experienced in Wrestling, and that if his Highness pleased, he should have the satisfaction to see him engaged in that Exercise. The Grand Seignor commanded he should be brought into the Seraglio, the next day, and that Torcateli should have notice, to be ready to entertain him. Being both come to the place, and in a condition ready to close, the Grand Seignor came into a Gallery, attended by all the Grandees of the Seraglio, to be Spectators of that Trial of Skill in Wrestling. The Victory having stood as 'twere in the balance a good while, and all the Spectators, being somewhat impatient, to see which side it would turn to, a Mute expressed himself by signs, to one of his Companions, to this effect, That he wondered the Page, who should have derived new strength and courage, from the Grand Seignor's presence, found it so difficult to get the better of the Muscovite, whom he had so easily worsted the day before. The language of the Mutes, by signs, is as intelligible in the Seraglio, as if they had the liberty of speaking, and the Grand Seignor, who understands it as well as any of them, as having been accustomed thereto from his Infancy, and commonly discoursing with them, was strangely surprised, to understand that the Muscovite had been, the day before, in the same place. His indignation immediately flushed into his face; he commanded the Wrestlers to give over their Exercise, and, calling the Page to him, he asked him, How he had contrived that man's entrance into the Seraglio. The unfortunate Tocateli, who could not deny a thing, which so many others were ready to testify, acquainted his Highness with what had passed; whereupon, the Sultan, incensed at the greatness of his confidence, prevented his making an end of the Story, by commanding the Bostangi-bachi to be presently sent for, whom he ordered to seize on the Muscovian Wrestler, and see him receive Five hundred blows on the soles of the Feet, with a Wand or Cudgel; which no doubt was enough to make him uncapable of exercising himself, for a good while after. The Overseer had Orders, to see the same punishment inflicted upon the Page Tocateli; which was immediately put in execution: the Grand Seignor having, in the mean time, retired into the Apartment of the Women. It was the Opinion of most about the Seraglio, that those two unfortunate wretches would have escaped, with the punishment of Five hundred blows, each of them, upon the soles of their feet. But the Grand Seignor, who was resolved to have their lives, and had retired, purposely, into the Lodgings of the Women, to prevent all mediation for their pardon, sent away presently a second Order, to the Bostangi-Bachi, whereby he was commanded to see the Page hanged up, in the Evening, on a Tree, which is at the Corner of the place, where they had Wrestled, and the Muscovite on another Tree, which is without the Gate of the Seraglio. Some would be apt to think, that these two Executions were enough to appease the Amurath's great Severity. Prince's indignation: But it proved otherwise. The next morning, the Sultan- Amurath sent for the Capi-Aga, the chiefest amongst the Eunuches, and the Grand Master and controller, of the Seraglio, and commanded, That the Gellad, who is the common Executioner, should also give his attendance. Upon the passing of these Orders, all those, that were present, cast themselves at his Highness' feet, beseeching him to consider, That the Capi-Aga was innocent, that he had not the least notice of the confidence of the Page, and that, if it had come to his knowledge, he would have severely punished it. The Grand Seignor continuing still extremely incensed, could not be appeased by all the entreaties and submissions they made to him, and would have the Capi-Aga, as Grand Master of the Seraglio, to be answerable for all those that come into it; when, for the good fortune of that principal Officer of the Sultan's Palace, there came in the Moufti, and the Seligdar, or Chief of the Pages of the Chamber, who with much ado made a shift to beg his pardon. Yet was not that granted but in part; for all they could obtain, extended only to the saving of his life; and so the Grand Seignor ordered him to be immediately thrust out of the Seraglio, with a charge never to enter again into it, while he lived; and instead of the Dignity of Bassa, whereto he should have been advanced, to be reduced to a small Pension of Three hundred Asper's a day. I thought it pertinent to my design, to bring in this Story of the Two Wrestlers, in order to the greater confirmation of what I have affirmed at the beginning of this Chapter, concerning the impossibility there is, for any person whatsoever, Man, or Woman, to get into the Apartment of the Sultanesses, when they punish, with so much severity, a Stranger, who, without express order, presumes but to set his foot within any Court of the Seraglio. Take it then for granted, that this is all that can be known, with certainty, of the How to distinguish what's true, and what fabulous, as to the Sultanesies. Apartment of the Women, who are subservient to the pleasures of the Ottoman Monarches; whatever is scattered abroad, beyond this account thereof, being grounded only upon imaginations and conjectures, which haply are at a great distance from the truth. Certain it is, that this Quarter of the Seraglio, as to some part of it, has a fair Prospect upon that of the Grand Seignor, and that the Doors of it are kept night and day, by a certain number of Negro-eunuches, the most deformed, and the most dreadful to look upon, that can be found. It is certain also, that it is well furnished with abundance of most beautiful Women, of several Countries, who, by the chance of War, or otherwise, are fallen into the hands of the Bassa's, and Governors of Provinces, who send them up, as Presents, to the Grand Seignor. It is known also, That, of that variety of Women, the Prince does not appropriate to himself above two or three, whom he has the greatest affection for; nay some of those Princes have confined themselves to the embraces of one only, after intermarriage. And this is affirmed, at Constantinople, of Solyman the Great, after he had plighted his faith to Roxulana, contrary to the ordinary Policy of the Turks, after the affront, done by Temurleng, to the Wife of Bajazet. The white Eunuches, who wait in the Grand Seignor's Lodgings, are able, in some measure, to give an account of these things, in regard that the Woman, who is to participate of the Grand Seignor's Bed, is conducted into his own Chamber; and, if it be a new Amour, the noise of it is spread, the next day, all over the Seraglio. It is also known, That the first of those Women, who is delivered of a Male-child, and, by that means, becomes Mother to the presumptive Heir of the Ottoman-Empire, is considered as the principal Sultaness, and treated according to her dignity: and the others, who afterwards have Sons or Daughters, have also the quality and denomination of Sultanesses; but the number of the Women, who are to wait on them, is much inferior, to that of those, who are to attend the principal Sultaness. It is known, in fine, That those young Princes are brought up under the tutelage of their Mothers, till they are so many years of age; and when they are strong enough to be put upon certain Exercises, they have Governors and Masters appointed over them, in a distinct Quarter by themselves. Besides these things, which may be positively known, concerning the Apartment of the Women, in the Seraglio, it may well be imagined, that the embellishments of their Lodgings are answerable to those of the Grand Seignor, since it is the place, where he passes away the most divertive part of his time. It is also not to be questioned, but that it has its Infirmary, its Baths, and the other accommodations, and conveniences, that can be wished for. It may also be conjectured, That there is, in this Quarter, an observance of the same regulations, as there are in the Chambers of the Ichoglans: That some of the more ancient Maids are Mistresses over the Younger ones, and are, night and day employed in observing their actions; and that their unvoluntary restraint forces them to the same unseemly actions amongst themselves, as the brutish Passions of those Young Men engages them in, whenever they can find the opportunities to commit them. And this presumption has no doubt given occasion to the Fabulous Story, which is related of their being served up with Cucumbers cut into pieces, and not entire, out of a ridiculous fear lest they should put them to undecent uses: they who have forged the Story not knowing, that it is the custom in the Levant, to cut the Fruit across, into great thick slices, as I shall make it appear in the Chapter, where I treat of their Gardens. But it is not only in the Seraglio, that that abominable Vice reigns, but it is predominant also in the City of Constantinople, and in all the Provinces of the Empire, and the wicked Example of the Men, who, slighting the natural use of Womankind, are mutually inflamed with a detestable love for one another, unfortunately inclines the Women to imitate them. Of this, there was a strange instance in the time of Solyman the Magnificent. An A strange Story of an old Woman. old Woman was guilty of such an excess of extravagance, as to put on Man's clothes, and to give out, that she had bought a Chiaouxes place, the better to compass her design, of obtaining the only Daughter of a Tradesman of Constantinople, with whom she was desperately fallen in love, having made fruitless attempts, by other ways, to satisfy her infamous inclinations. The Father, not suspecting any thing of her wicked intentions, and being withal poor, grants her his Daughter, the Marriage is solemnised in the presence of the Cadi, and the imposture having been discovered the very Wedding-night, the old woman was condemned the next day to be thrown into the Sea, there to quench the Gomorrhean Inflammations of her lewd desires. This Story is to this day related in Constantinople, and I have had it from several good hands. These insatiable salaciousness amongst the Women, are the effects and consequences Polygamy prejudicial to propagation. of the same inclinations in the Men; and the Turks are so much the more execrable and abominable as to this particular, the more they are permitted a plurality of Wives. But, whether it happens through a just punishment from Heaven, or proceed from their Sorceries, which are common and allowed in Turkey, and ordinarily practised by the Women, in opposition one to another, to appropriate the affections of their Husbands, it has always been observed, That the Turks who keep many Women, are not so well stored with Children, as they, who observe Conjugal Chastity, and confine themselves to one. I question not but those Authors, who have written of the Mahometan Religion, have given a sufficient account of that plurality of Wives, and of the Ceremonies of Matrimony, amongst the Turks. As to the manner, how the Grand Seignor demeans himself in the prosecution of The Secrecy of the Grand Seignor's Amours. his Amours, it is a Secret, which I shall not inquire into; I have not much endeavoured to make any discoveries of it, and it is a hard matter to give any account thereof, without some hazard of travesting History into Romance. They are Intrigues, which do not admit of any Confident, by whom they may be disclosed, and all that is commonly related thereof, is haply at a great distance from the true state of things: not to press this, That we ought to have a respect for all Princes, and to forbear divulging what informations we may possibly have received, of their secret Amours. CHAP. XVIII. The Entrance into Constantinople of the Sultaness, Mother to the Grand Seignor, whom they honour with the Title of la Validé, on the Second of July, 1668. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The order of the March. The Wealth of the Grand Seignor's Favourite. The Sultaness' Coaches. The prohibitions to look on her. ON the Second of July, in the Year of our Lord, One Thousand, six Hundred, Sixty and Eight, the Sultaness, Mother to the Grand Seignor Regent, at her return from Adrianople, made her Entrance into Constantinople, where I than was, of which Entrance take the eusuing Description. About Six in the Morning, some numbers of Janissaries, not observing any order, The Order of the March. took their way towards the Seraglio, sometimes ten, or more, sometimes twenty, in little detachments, which lasted for some time. After them came two hundred men on Horseback, belonging to the House of the Cologlou, that is to say, the Grand Seignor's Favourite, with short Guns resting on the Bow of their Saddles, and all very meanly clad, as also the Officers of his Kitchen, who coming in the Rear of the others, were, in like manner, poorly habited, and ill mounted. After them appeared in somewhat a better order, the menial Retinue of the Caimacan, his Officers, as well those belonging to the Chamber, as those of the Stables, were very handsomely mounted, and all in their yellow Garments. The next appearance was that of the Spahis, who are the Sultaness-Mother's Lifeguard. Of those there were four hundred, which made a handsome Show, being all well mounted, and well clad. They had all their Coats of Mail, with their Vests of red Taffata, and had on the right side a Quiver of Crimson-Velvet, embroidered with Flowers of Gold; and on the left, a Bow in a cover of red Velvet, embroidered as the other. They had all of them Helmets on their Heads, and over them white Turbans, and from the Helmets there hung small Chains of Mail, resembling Locks of Hair, which they use when occasion requires, to ward off a blow from the neck and face. Every one of them had also a Lance in his hand, and the Trappings of their Horses were of one of these three Colours, yellow, violet, and red, of a rich Stuff, with an embroidery of Silver. The Spahi-Bachi came in the Rear of them, having a Plume of Heron-tops in his Turban, three foot in height, which made him remarkable, and distinguished him from all the other Spahis. On the Breastpiece of his Horse, were fastened a dozen little scarves, which hung down negligently, and he was attended by six Pages, who had Caps on, after the Slavonian Mode, red Vests tucked up about the waste, and yellow Hose, or Drawers. After the Spahis, there passed several Janissaries, but not marching in any order, followed by two hundred men on Horseback, and in the Rear of them, came the Janizary-Aga, a Person of a very goodly presence. He had for his immediate Attendants six gentile young Persons, who had each of them, hanging over his shoulder, a kind of Quiver, full of small Wands, which are a sort of Arrows, without any Ironwork at the ends. After the forementioned, there came up twelve men, who are as it were the Masters of the Ceremonies, in very ridiculous Accoutrements. They had Silver Wands resting on their Shoulders, their Vestments were garnished with small Bells, and they had Caps on, which had somewhat hanging down of each side, resembling Asses Ears. The next appearance after that extravagant Party, was that of an hundred Capigis, all well mounted, every one with a Lance in his hand, with a Flag fastened thereto, reaching from the top to the bottom, which made a very noble Show. In the Rear of the Troop came the Capigi-bachi, distinguished from the rest by a high and large Plume of Heron-tops, which added much to the gracefulness of his looks, and Person. After them, came a hundred Chiaouxes, well clad, and well mounted, having their great Caps on their Heads; and in the Rear of them came the Caimacan, having a Cap of the same fashion, attended by twenty Pages, very neatly clad. The next appearance was that of five or six hundred Bostangis, with their Caps like Sugarloafs, their Habits of a red linen Cloth, and Muskets on their Shoulders. The Bostangi-bachi came after them, sumptuously clad, and mounted, with a Chiaoux-cap upon his head, and a great number of people about him. There appeared next, two hundred Cadis, making a most noble Show, all modestly clad, with their Buskins of black Spanish-Leather, and white Turbans, like great Balls of Wool, or Silk. They were followed by the Scherifs, who affirm themselves to be of the kindred of Mahomet, and made up a Troop of sixty Persons. As they were the Relations of the Prophet, they wore green Turbans of an extraordinary bigness. After the Scherifs, came the two principal Officers of the Moufti (for he never appears in person in these sorts of Ceremonies) and they were clad in white, having a very demure and religious Countenance. The Cologlou, or Grand Seignor's Favourite, appeared next mounted on a gallant The wealth of the Favourite. Horse, whose Harness and Trappings were of the richest. The Stirrups were of Gold, and the house was embellished with an embroidery of Gold and Pearls. His Vest was of a red Brokado, and his Cap like those of the Chiaouxes. Two men held the reins of his Bridle, and his Horse curveted all along, as if he had been sensible of the goodly presence of his Master, and how well it became him. He was a person of a good stature, and of a graceful countenance, having withal a mild and sprightly look, and every one saluted him, as he advanced still towards the Seraglio. The Servants belonging to his Stable marched after him, and fifty Grooms led each of them a Horse in his hand, and those horses were all high-prized, and their Harnesses as sumptuous as could be made. 'Tis commonly reported, That this Favourite, who is a person of very great merit, hath acquired vast Riches, and that his Train, whether as to the number of Servants, or as to that of Horses, surpasses that of many great Princes. There came up next a small Troop of Negro-eunuches, marching confusedly, before The Sultanesses Coaches. the Coaches of the Sultaness, Mother to the present. Grand Seignor, all well mounted, and Magnificently clad, in different colours, There appeared afterwards Six Capigis, about the first Coach, drawn by six Excellent Horses. They had each of them a Lance in his hand; and, in the Rear of them, there appeared a Horse-tail-Banner, of a pale-red colour, whereby it was known, that some Bassa's were coming up, as indeed there were, and they were a Convoy to the second Coach, drawn by six white horses, in which was the Sultaness-Mother, and another Sultaness. Two Black Eunuches marched on each side of it, the Boots, or Doors being latticed, that the Princesses might see, and not be seen. Which hindered not, however, but that, as the Coach of the Sultaness came forwards, some were still crying out to the people, and commanding them to look the other way; which Command it concerns them exactly to obey, and that especially in Perfia, where they must get away as far as they can, to avoid the hazard of receiving a good blow with a Sable. After the aforesaid Coach, there passed by Twelve other Coaches with four horses apiece, wherein were the Female-Slaves belonging to the Sultanesses, having two Negro-eunuches, at the Doors of each Coach, which were latticed, as the former: After which there followed several Litters, and four great Wagons, full of Snow, for the use of the Sultanesses, and their Retinue. All this Cavalcade, consisting of between five and six thousand men, took up almost three hours in its passage, and having made its Procession through Constantinople, lodged itself in the Seraglio, according to the description I have given you of it. Of the French Nation, there were several Persons of Quality, who had the Curiosity to see that Entrance; and among others, Monsieur Ribier, de Ville-neuve, a Counsellor of the Parliament of Paris; Monsieur Le Mairat, a Counsellor of the Grand Council: The Abbot of Champhuon, de la Saulsaye, all Parisians; and Monsieur Aubert, a Native of New-France, and, by Extraction, a Norman, Son to the Governor of Guardaloupe. CHAP. XIX. Of the Gardens of the Seraglio. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. The Revenues of the Gardens employed for the Grand Seignor's Table. Cucumbers, a fruit of much delicacy amongst the Levantines, and how they eat them. A noble Pyramid, resembling Trajan's Pillar. Fountains. The number of the Gardiner's. IT is an ancient Custom, or rather, a Law, established by the Ottoman Princes, The Revenues of the Gardens, how employed. that the profits made out of their Gardens, should be contributory to the keeping of their own Tables, and they have several of them, in the Neighbourhood of Constantinople, as well on the European side, as the Asian, all along the Seashore. But I shall give an account, only of the Gardens of the Seraglio, that so I may not exceed the limits I have prescribed to myself in this Relation. There are in the Seraglio several Gardens, wherein there are only Flowers, in divers Apartments, and particularly in that of the Grand Seignor, and, no question, but the same thing may be said of the Quarter of the Sultanesses. Yet is there not any thing extraordinary, which might oblige me to give this description thereof. The great Garden, whereof the Bostangi-bachi has the oversight, as he has also of all the others belonging to the Grand Seignor, takes up the greatest part of the Seraglio, and consists of a great number of Walks, planted, of each side, with Cypress. Those Walks are much neglected, so that in several places, they are not cleared of Briars and Thorns. When it is known, that the Grand Seignor is to come and take his divertisement there, a great number of Bostangis are immediately commanded out, to make clean the Walks, which he uses to frequent, and the spaces between those Walks are so many Kitchen-gardens, or Orchards, which are very well furnished with Fruit-Trees, of several excellent kinds. Of Strawberries and Raspices there is great store, and they have large beds of Melons, and Cucumbers; but most of these last, which are accounted a great delicacy amongst the Levantines. As to the Cucumbers, they commonly eat them without taking off any thing of the Cucumbers a great delicacy amongst the Levantines. tind, after which they go and drink a glass of Water. In all Asia, it is the ordinary sustenance of the meaner sort of people, for the space of three or four months; the whole Family lives upon them, and when a Child asks for something to eat, whereas in our European Countries, they would give him bread, in the Levant, they bring him only a Cucumber, which he eats raw, as it comes out of the Garrison. Laborious persons, and such as are in a manner tired with working, such as Camel-drivers, and those who are entrusted with the care of the Horses, and Mules, in the Caravans, make a kind of Salad of their Cucumbers, not much unlike the Mash, which we would give our Horses. When they are come to the Lodging place, where the Caravan is to make a stay, they take a large Basin, which they almost fill with water, and having put some sour milk into it, they cut a great number of Cucumbers, into great slices, and so make a kind of mash of them. 'Tis a pleasant sight to see them at the confounding of it. Amongst ten, or twelve, who all stand round the said Basin, there is but one wooden Spoon, which every one takes in his turn, till they have made a shift to empty the Basin. That done, they fall a drinking of water, and those who have wherewithal, go and take a dish of Coffee, or smoke a Pipe of Tobacco. But to do them all the right they deserve, the Cucumbers in the Levant are excellently good, and, though eaten raw, they never do a man any hurt. The Story of the Cucumbers which occasioned the cruel death of Seven Pages of the Grand Seignor's Chamber, is not, haply, known to all people; or at least, all know not the reason, why the Pages of the Chamber are not now permitted to go into the Gardens. Sultan Mahomet, the second of that name, taking a turn in the Gardens of the Seraglio, attended by his Pages, was much surprised to see a bed of Cucumbers, which looked very fair to the eye, and were extremely forward, considering the Season. Being a great lovet of that fruit, he recommended them to the Bostangi-bachi, who told them over every day, and, with some impatience, expected their maturity, that he might present them to the Grand Seignor. Some days after, going to Visit the bed, he found his number of Cucumbers shorter, than it should have been, by three or four, and that they who had taken those that were missing, had made choice of the ripest, and thereupon making a strict enquiry, to find out who have been guilty of that presumption, he found that the Pages of the Chamber were the only persons who had been, that day, in the Gardens. Upon that discovery, he went and gave an account of the whole matter to the Grand Seignor, who was so highly incensed thereat, that, not prevailing with any one of the Pages to acknowledge the Theft, he, out of a cruelty as much above all credit, as beyond all example, caused the Bellies of seven of them to be ripped up. The Theft was found in the Belly of the seventh of those unfortunate Young Men, who, after the execution done on the other six, would not acknowledge his guilt, out of hopes, that the Prince's indignation would not have extended so far. From that very time, and in commemoration of so strange an action, the Pages of the Chamber are not permitted to go into the Gardens of the Seraglio; what one Prince has established, as I have hinted elsewhere, being never revoked by his Successors, who bear a certain respect to the enactions of their Ancestors. In the midst of the Great Walk, which goes from the Seraglio, to the Sea-Gate A Pyramid; much resembling Trajan's Pillar. which looks towards Scudaret, there is a Pyramid, erected upon a square Pedestal, and which four men would have much ado to fathom. About the Pedestal they have suffered some briars and thorns to grow, and it seems to have been done out of design, to hinder people's coming close to it. The Pyramid, from the top to the bottom, is full of Figures, whereof the heads are struck off; and it may be conjectured by some remainders, that there was a very noble head on the top of it, as being the Masterpiece of the work. This Pyramid somewhat resembles Trajan's Pillar at Rome; and some, who have seen both, imagine, they were the work of the same Master. All the Fountains of the Gardens have their Basins of Marble, of different colours. Fountains, Near each of them, there is a little Scafsold, surrounded with Balisters, which they spread with rich Carpets, and Brocado-Cushions, when the Sultan comes to take his walk there: and 'tis only at that time, the Waters play; which Diversion he frequently gives the Princesses, who bear him company. There are appointed for the culture of these Gardens two thousand Bostangis; and The gardiner's yet, though there be so vast a number to keep them, they come far short of the Neat Contrivances, and Embellishments of ours. CHAP. XX. Of the Princes who follow the Mahometan Religion, in Europe, Asia, and Africa. THE PRINCIPAL HEADS. General Laws for all the Mahometan Sects. A Curious Remark, concerning the Emperor of Java's Son. Kings, who follow the Doctrine of Hali. The Royal Present from the great Mogul to Mecha. The several ways, by which the Mahometans come to their Prophet's Tomb. Trouble some Deserts to be passed through in their way to the Sepulchre of Hali. A Miraculous Channel of Water, of the continuance of Eighteen day's Journey. The Burnt-Offering of a Wether. I Have so often had occasion, in the present Relation I have made of the Grand General Laws for all the Mahometan Sects. Seignor's Seraglio, to speak of the Mahometan Religion, that I am content, before I put a period to this Work, to make it appear, how far it extends into the three parts of our great Continent: Mahumetism having not yet set footing into that which has been discovered but two Ages since. I meddle not at all with the Doctrine of it, of which I am sufficiently assured that many persons have written: and I shall only entertain the Reader with a Geographical Chart of all the Countries of Europe, Asia, and Africa, which are under the dominion of the followers of Mahomet. Though the Opinions of their Doctors be different, as to what concerns the Explication of the Law, and that there are principally two great Sects, that of Mahomet, which is the Stock; and that of Hali, one of his principal Successors: Yet those two general Sects, and the particular ones, which are derivable thence, are all concordant in the fundamental Points, which every Mahometan is obliged, in Conscience, to observe and practise. Of those I gave an account, when I made mention of the Prayers or Devotions, which the Turks are bound to perform five times a day, and the Pilgrimage of Mecha is one of those principal Articles. I have also said something of them, in the Chapters treating of the Present, which the Grand Seignor sends thither every Year; and in this last, I shall endeavour to express myself fully as to that matter. In Europe, we have no Mahometan Princes but the Emperor of the Turks, and the Cham of the Lesser Tartary: But in Asia there are many of them, who are powerful, and possessed of great Dominions. The Grand Seignor extends his Jurisdiction, in this part, beyond the Sources of the River Tigris, and beyond the mouths, by which it falls into the Sea, and towards the North, as far as the Territories of the Mengrelians. To go thence from the West to the East, next the Grand Seignor, we must count the Princes of the Three Arabia's, with several of whom I have often spoken, in Two of my Voyages, wherein I have been obliged to pass through the Deserts. The King of Persia, the Great Mogul, the King of Visapour, the King of Golconda, the Kings on the Coast of Malabar, of whom the most considerable is that of Comorin; the Great Cham of Tartary, and the Kings of the Mountains, to the North side of the same Tartary, who are got into China; All these Kings, I say, follow the Mahometan Religion. Since I have mentioned the Emperor of Java, I shall, by the way, insert here an observation, which I made at the time of my being in that Island, which was, A curious Remark of the Emperor of Java's Son. That the eldest Son of that Emperor, who reigned in the year 1648. had six fingers on each of his hands, and six toes on each foot, and all of equal length. The Kings of Persia, Visapour, and Golconda follow the Sect of Hali; and the Kings King's following the Doctrine of Hali. of the Mountains of Tartary, with some others, have also their particular Sects. Besides, it is to observed, that, if we except the Grand Seignor, the King of Persia, the Arabian Princes, and the Cham of Great Tartary, all the other Kings, whom I have named, have only Idolaters to their Subjects, and all the meaner sort of people is involved in the darkness of Paganism. But as to the Grand Seignor's, with all his Militia, they follow the Law of Mahomet. In Africa, there is a Mahometan King, whose Territories lie all along the Coast of Abex, which is towards Arabia Felix, as far as the Cape of Guardafu, and his Jurisdiction extends over the Red Sea, and the Ocean. The Governors, whom the Grand Seignor employs in Egypt, and in the Islands of the Red Sea, and those others, whom he has established all along the Coast of Barbary, at Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers, who assume the Title of Kings, are also Mahumetans; and, in fine, the King of Fez and Morocco follows the same Law. All these Kings and Princes, are principally unanimous in this Point, That they acknowledge themselves obliged to send every year some Present to Mecha, which ordinarily consists in rich Carpets, to be put upon Mahomet's Sepulchre. Sometimes these The Great Mogul's Royal sent to Mecha. Presents are made upon a particular Vow; and it happened in one of my Voyages to Agra, that the Great Mogul, by way of thankfulness to the Prophet, for the recovery of his health, sent to Mecha, an Alcoran, valued at four hundred thousand Crowns, which had, in the midst of the Cover, a Diamond, of three hundred Carats; the rest of it being garnished with several precious Stones on both sides The occasion of this Present was, the fright which a certain Brameré put him into, upon his telling him, That he should die before the year was expired, which happened not accordingly. But the King being extremely incensed at that direful Prediction, and, upon the smart Interrogatory he put to the Brameré, to wit, whether he knew also the time of his own death, having received this Answer, That it should be within three days; which really happened upon the third day, there was a sufficient ground for him to be frighted, and to conceive an apprehension, that the like accident might happen to himself, before the time limited. 'Twas that induced him to send a Present of so great value, to Mahomet's Sepulchre, to acknowledge the favour he had done him, in not suffering the Prediction of the Brameré to take effect, the King having not had as much as any indisposition, during all that time. When I gave an account of the Pilgrimage of Mecha, upon occasion of the Tent The several ways whereby the Mahometans come to the Sepulchre of their Prophet. and Carpet, which the Grand Seignor sends thither every year, I made no mention of the several ways which the Caravans take, according to the several parts of the World, from whence great multitudes of Mahometans do every year take their progress thither. In the first place, the Ambassadors, whom the Kings of the Islands, whereof I have given you the names, and the Kings of the Indies, on this side the Ganges, send to the Sheck of Mecha, with their Presents come by Sea, to Mocha, a Maritime City of Arabia Felix, and from thence they travel to Mecha by Land, by the conveniency of Camels. The Persians, who inhabit all along the Seaside make their descent from Ormus, or to Bandar, and having passed over the Gulf, which, at that place, is not above twelve or thirteen Leagues in breadth, are forced to cross Arabia ere they can get to the Prophet's City. But the Inhabitants of the upper-parts of Persia, towards the Caspian Sea, and all the Tartars, come to Tauris, and from Tauris to Aleppo, from which place, the great Caravans, which take their progress through the Deserts, set forth, and bring the Pilgrims to Mecha. Some take the way of Babylon, but very seldom, because the Bassa exacts a Tribute of them, and particularly of the Persians, whom they account Heretics; and that consideration has obliged the King of Persia, to forbid his Subjects to take that Road, thinking himself not inferior to the Turk. Some of the Devouter sort of Persians, and such as are most zealous for their own Troublesome Iresarts in the way to Hali's Sepulchre. Sect, take the way of Babylon, upon this score, that it brings them at the same time to the Sepulchre of their Prophet Hali, which is but eight days Journey distant from it. This is the most wretched place, of all the places upon earth, and affords no water but the most corrupted water, which is drawn out of certain Pits, and that of a Canal, which Schach-Abas caused to be brought thither from the Euphrates, but which is now quite out of repair. Whoever expects to drink good water there, must bring it along with him, from other places, from other places, five or six days Journey distant from the other: And yet that false Prophet imposes on those, who have such a Devotion for him, not only the inconveniences of coming so far off; but also those of being in a fair way to perish by thirst, and hardship of lodging. The last time it was my fortune to pass through the Deserts, I came to that detestable place upon this occasion, that meeting with a Courier, who was come from Babylon, with two Arabians, whom he had in his Company, he gave us intelligence, that the Grand Seignor's Forces, which had then newly taken Babylon, were upon their march back, in little Detachments, and that there was no question to be made, but they would seize on our Camels and Baggage. Which advertisements obliged us to take our course more to the South, and to get further into the Desert, where we spent sixty and five days in the crossing of it, to avoid meeting with those Forces. As for the Princes of Arabia, they have no great Journey to make, because they are the next neighbours to Mahomet's Sepulchre. The Mahometans of Europe come to Aleppo, and there join the Caravan; and those of Africa pass to Grand Cairo, and meet in the Deserts, with the same Caravan of A Miraculous Canal of water of the length of 18 days journey. Aleppo at eighteen days journey from Medina, where there is a water, which goes by a Canal, quite to that City, all the way of those eighteen days journey. They have it by Tradition, That that water was found by their Prophet Mahomet, as he crossed the Desert with his Army, ready to die for thirst, and that going to drink of it first of any, there issued a Voice to him out of the Water, which said to him, Prophet, thou wilt find it bitter: That he made the Voice this Answer, Let us all drink of it, for I know it is sweet, and I would to God, that we could always find as good. That thereupon the Voice replying the second time, said to him, Prophet, Command, and I will follow thee: And that as soon as he had spoken, the Water made a Canal under ground, and followed him quite to Medina. From Damas', Jerusalem, and Cairo, they account forty days Journey to Medina, and it is at the two and twentieth day's journey that they find that water. 'Tis partly to see that miraculous Water, which had been sweetened by the Prophet, that there goes into those places so great a concourse of People, of so many different Nations, from all parts of the World: in as much as there is no Mahometan, let him be at ever so great a distance, and but tolerably in a condition of health, and supplied with the external accommodations of fortune, who does not think himself obliged to go once in his life to Mecha, in person, or to send some other in his stead. After the Pilgrims have continued certain days at Medina, they go to Gebel-Araffa, that is to say, the place, where Adam found Eve, his Wife, five hundred years, after God had created her. It is a City in the Mountains, at the distance of Two Day's Journey from Medina, and at one from Emena, another City, which is half way between both. Assoon as the Pilgrims are come thither, all those who are so well furnished, buy a Wether to make a Holocaust of it, and to distribute it amongst the poor, they being not allowed to keep above two pounds of it, for themselves. If they do not punctually observe that, and that some discovery should be made thereof, they are made incapable, ever after, while they live, of shaving their Heads, or paring their Nails. From Gebel-Araffa, they return to Medina, where they keep an account of the time, when the Caravan arrived there; in regard that all the Pilgrims, who came by Land, are, as I said elsewhere, maintained with sustenance for the space of Seventeen days; but they who come by Sea are sustained, as long as they continue there, even though they should make it the place of their abode, as long as they live. FINIS. A SHORT DESCRIPTION Of all the KINGDOMS Which Encompass the Euxine and Caspian Seas, DELIVERED By the AUTHOR after above Twenty Years Travel. Together with a PREFACE CONTAINING Several Remarkable Observations concerning divers of the forementioned COUNTRIES. LONDON, Printed for R. L. and Moses Pytt. 1677. The Publisher unto the Reader. THE ensuing Narration was put into my hands Five or Six Years ago, by a very Intelligent Worthy Person, who long resided in the same Family with our Author, and did assure me, that the Discourse here published, was written with his own hand, and presented unto that Honourable Person who redeemed him out of Captivity. The Gentleman who bestowed these Papers upon me, will not be responsible for the Truth of all therein contained; but I having compared his Account of several Countries with that of Olearius and other more Ancient and Modern Writers, have found them very Consonant unto each other, and therefore do charitably believe him no less Faithful in his Description of those Countries and People concerning whom little hath been said by any besides. By reason of his long absence from his Native Country, and dis-use of his Mother-Tongue, his style was so rough, odd, and unpleasant, that I was forced to make therein great Alterations both as to Method and Expression, yet keeping strictly unto his sense: I have also much abbreviated his Discourse, many things being often repeated, and he having stuffed it with divers impertinencies, which would have been void of all Instruction and Delight. He would never own his true Name or Pedigree, for Reasons mentioned in his Paper, which I thought altogether unnecessary to be rehearsed; that of Astracan, wherewith he concludes his NARRATIVE, being fictitious, and I suppose assumed, because of his long Residence in a City of that name, from which he made most of his Excursions: And which with the Adjacent Country he hath above all others most particularly described, giving us the names of several Neighbouring Places and Rivers mentioned by no other Writer. I was highly pleased with the Account he gives us of Czarofsgorod, which he also sometimes calls Seraichan and Seraichena; the former of which is the Muscovitish, the latter the Tartarian Appellation, and interpreted, both signify the Habitation of the Emperor or Cham, it being formerly the Metropolis of a great Empire. As also with his mention of a place on the Westside of the Volga, where he says Astracan was formerly situated. Concerning both which Cities, I shall declare divers things I have Collected out of several European and Arabian Writers, which either are not commonly known, or little regarded. But I must necessarily premise somewhat concerning the Ancient Inhabitants of the Country wherein these Cities are situated. The first Nation (of whom I find any mention) who made any fixed habitation in these Quarters were the Chazari, so named by the Latins and Greeks, but by the Mahometans, Alchozar, and Gorjani. This Nation during the Reign of the Emperor Justine, like a Torrent Overflowed all that Vast Continent which lies between China and the Boristhenes, Conquered part of India, All Bactria, Sogdiana, and made the Persians Tributary, by whom they are always called Turks, and their Prince, Chacan, a Title formerly common unto all great Turkish Emperors. This Mighty Monarch having conquered the Igors or Jugurs, Avares, Chuni or Huns, Abtelites or White Huns, and all other Tribes of Turks and Tartars, together with the Alani (whose Dominion then extended, as appears by Marcellinus, from the Boristhenes far beyond the most North-East part of the Caspian Sea) entered into a League with Justine, and styles himself in his Letters, Lord of the Seven Climates of the World. His Acts may be read at large in Theophilactus Simocatta; Excerptis de Legationibus: and divers others of the Bizantine Historians. This Nation Assisted the Emperor Heraclius in his Wars against the great Cosross, whom by their Assistance he overcame. These Chazari were also possessed of all that part of Taurica Chersonesus which is plain and fit for feeding Cattle, they being addicted, after the manner of all other Scythian Nomads, unto a Pastoral life; which Peninsula from them was until the Famous Irruption of the Tartars in the Thirteenth Century, called Cassaria, or Cazaria, and afterwards more corruptly by the Genoeses, Venetians, and other Latins, Gazaria. I find mention of these Chazari or Chozars in divers Persian and Arabian Historians and Geographers. Abulpharagius acquaints us with an Expedition they made into Persia the 183. Year of the Hegira, which was after our Account in 799, from whence they returned with great Spoil, and above 100000 Captives: and afterwards, in the 514th Year of the Mahometan Epocha, being A. C. 1120. they made another Inroad, accompanied by the Comanians, (whom the Arabians call Kaphjaks;) Frequent mention is made of them by that Deservedly Celebrated Arabian Geographer Al Edrisi, who flourished in the 548th year of the Hegira; of Christ, 1153. He always calls the Caspian Sea, Mare Chozar: And all that Country on the North and to the West of the Caspian Sea, Terra Chozar. He acquaints us, that the Residence of the Prince of Chozar was not far above the Mouth of the Volga, which the Tartars call Athel; which name I suppose it derived from Attila, that Renowned King of the Hunns, being so called in the Relation of the Ambassadors who were sent by the Emperor Justine, unto the Great Chacan of the Turks residing in the East. Al Edrisi and his Epitomiser, commonly known by the Name of Geographus Nubiensis intimate, That these Chozars inhabited divers other Cities, but that this was the Metropolis; he suppresses the Name, styling it only from the River, the City of Athel; and declares, it was divided by the River, the chief and greatest part being on the Westside; and that the other less considerable on the East-side, was inhabited only by the meaner sort of People and Merchants, it being a place of great Trade; that which made it more considerable, was the liberty allowed unto all of the Public Profession, and Exercise of their respective Religious Persuasions, Jews, Christians, Mahometans, and Idolaters being there equally countenanced, which I suppose might occasion that Dialogue published out of an Ancient Hebrew Manuscript, by L'Empereur, between the Author a Jewish Rabbi, and the King of Chozar. This City is said to have been extended along the River three miles in length, and its breadth proportionable; the Western part well fortified; adorned with the Emperor's Palace, and several other eminent Structures. Nassir Eddin, who wrote at the latter end of the 13th Century, calls this City in his Geographical Tables, Balanjar, and from him Abulfeda; they place it in 46 degrees 30 minutes of Northern Latitude; where within six or eight minutes our best Geographers seat Astracan. And questionless this was that City which our Author and Olearius call Old Astracan. These Chazari, did, I suppose, conserve their vast Dominion without any great Interruption, at least until A. C. 900. For Alferganus who lived about that Time, places no other Nation in his Table of Climes, between China and the Boristhenes; And Eutichius, who wrote about 30 or 40 years after, makes mention of them as a mighty Nation, and many amongst them converted unto the Christian Belief. About the middle of the 10th Century these Chazari gave place unto the Cumanians or Comanians, who were also a Turkish Nation known unto the Turks, Persians, and Arabians, under the Name of Kaphjack; whether they expelled the Chazari, or that the former becoming the more Eminent Tribe, gave Law and Name unto these latter (as hath since frequently happened among the Tartars) I will not here undertake to determine: but this is certain, that suddenly the Name of Chazari was extinct, and all that Tract of Land from the Nepper unto Turkestan 1500 miles beyond the Volga, was inhabited by these Cumanians, who were often troublesome unto the Russes, Lithuanians, Hungarians and other Neighbour-Nations. But this People was almost totally destroyed by the Tartars in that great Inundation which happened at the beginning of the 12th Century, soon after the death of Jingiz Chan; whose Son Hocota being chosen Emperor, sent his Nephew Batu, or Bathy, the Son of Tussy Jingiz Chan his Eldest Son, with 400000 Men, to invade the Northem Parts of Asia. The Cumani for divers years valiantly resisted, and made the greatest opposition the Tartars met with in all their Conquests; repulsed them in two pitched Battles; but then growing secure, and dispersing upon the Tartars retreat, they were unexpectedly surprised, the whole Country overrun, above 200000 killed, their King Kuthen hardly escaping with 40000 into Hungary, where he met with a kind reception, had land allotted him, and his Company; which Region is called Campus Cumanus unto this day. This Country was so miserably wasted by the Tartars, that in the Years 1253, and 1254, when Rubriquiss passed through it, going unto and returning from his Ambassage to Mangu Chan, there was no fixed habitation, excepting a few Cottages in the Island where Astracan is now situated. But Bathy having destroyed the Comanians, ruinated their Cities, and established his own Dominion, began to think of a fixed abode, which after long observation he chose near the River Volga, on the East-side, and immediately beneath the River Actabon, a great Arm of the Volga, and the first it dismisses, which empties itself into the Caspian-Sea (having run a course of near 400 miles, and received several other Branches from the foresaid River) about 7 League's East off the main River. He had newly began this City at the return of Rubriquis from his Embassage unto Mangu Chan, in the year 1246, and called it Serai; Which City was enlarged and beautified by all his Successors, unto the time of its destruction by Tamerlane, which was almost 150 years. Bathy was succeeded by Barcah, who was the first professed Mahometan Emperor; he by Hocola, or Hoctay, Contemporary with Hayton the Armenian, who hath in his History largely discoursed concerning him: I should here mention all the other Emperors interceding between Hocota and Tucktamisch (who was dispossessed by Tamerlane) together with their Acts, but that I hasten unto that which most immediately concerns our present Design, and give some account of this City, which (as I said) was first named Serai, which interpreted signifies only a Dwelling or Habitation; the beginning of it being a Palace built for Bathy. You may see what our Traveller says concerning it, Page 112. Besides him I find two Authors who make particular mention thereof; the first is in the History of Arabshiade, published by Golius. This Author represents it as one of the greatest and most populous Cities in the Universe, agrees with our Traveller in the situation, only he calls that Branch which runs out of the Volga and passes to the Southeast, Sencle. The other is Michovius, who wrote his History of the Tartars in the year 1515. He afaffirms, That in his time there remained the ruins of 300 Temples, besides the Walls of the City, and several other Magnificent Structures. The Tartars have several times attempted to re-edify ' it, but divisions amongst themselves, Wars with the Muscovites, and attempts of the Cossacks caused them to retire unto places of greater security. But because little mention is made of this great Revolution by any European Writer, I shall here present the Reader with an account thereof out of the most Authentic Turkish, Arabian, and Persian Writers. For Calcondilas is greatly mistaken, who seems to have received by his confident way of writing, most particular information, when as nothing can be more remote from the truth than what he affirms, viz, That Tamerlane after several attempts, and two or three Battles was forced to retire, and glad to secure his Retreat by a Peace, he first made with Tuckthamisch, which was by both afterwards kept inviolably; which is contrary to the Reports of much more Authentic Historians. The Origin, Progress and, Event of this War was after the ensuing manner. Tamerlane being in effect Prince, but in name only Courachan (the Greeks call it Kurgan) that is, Viceroy or General over all those Countries which are comprehended between the Oxus and Juxartes, wherein Bochara, Samarchand, and several other famous Cities were contained, extended his Conquests towards Balch and Chorasan, (the Aria of the Ancients;) which progress of his filled Thuetamisch Emperor of Serai (the City we have before mentioned) with jealousies of his growing Greatness; whereupon gathering a numerous Army, he resolved to invade him, using no formality, or so much as pretence, he thought to have surprised his Enemy; but Tamerlane, one of whose Masterpieces was to gain early Intelligence of whatsoever was designed, or transacted by neighbouring Princes, having timely notice of his intention, gathering all his own Forces, together with considerable assistance from his Confederates marched directly towards his Enemy, and passing the Jaxartes, met him to his no small astonishment, on the Borders of his own Country; for the Jaxartes only divided their Territories. After a most obstinate bloody fight, Tamerlane gained the Victory, yet neither absolute, nor without great loss, but it was sufficient that he had secured his own Dominion. After this Success he did for divers years attend other Conquests, and having subdued a great part of India, all Persia, Media, Armenia, Assyria, Mesopotamia, Babylonia, and Syria, he resolved to requite the Invasion of Thuctamish: whereupon having drawn together an Army of 500000 men, he marched through Media Atropatia, then and still called Shervan; passed the Portae Caucasiae, which the Persians name Derbent; thence through Dabestan, and the great Desert between that and Astracan (then named Gitturchan) and having wasted all that spacious Country on the Westside of the Volga, depopulated and dismantled divers fair Cities (the ruins of several being yet visible to those who Navigate the Volga, as we are informed by Olearius) he passed the Volga, and on the East-side encountered Thuctamisch, who had collected a mighty Force, having besides his own Hordes, the assistance of the Tartars of Cassan, Tumen, Kalmuke, and Dabestan: and his Army by this accession was more numerous than that of his Enemy. The Battle was long doubtful, and exceeding all that happened in that Age for carnage and cruelty, both Parties being full of hatred unto their Adversaries; and knowing that this Fight would lose or gain them a mighty Empire. They fought three days with little intermission, and it could not be discerned which had the advantage. But that which is thought chief to have occasioned Tamerlane's Victory, was the departure of a great Tribe from Thuctamisch, whose Prince Ectave pretended he had received some great injury or affront, but 'twas indeed thought he was corrupted: For retreating unto Amurath the Turkish Emperor, he after the same manner betrayed Bajazet, who soon after succeeded; revolting at the beginning of the fight unto Tamerlane. Thuctamisch being defeated, with great difficulty made his escape, leaving his Country exposed unto the sury of the Zagataians', whom so great a slaughter of their own Friends had highly exasperated. They spared nothing that was capable of being spoiled; demolished Serai, together with Seraichick upon the Jaick, and Gitturchan, which were the only considerable Cities on the East-side of the Volga, and leaving the Country a mere Desert, killing, or captivating the Inhabitants, driving away the Cattle, they returned into Persia with great Booty. This happened in the 791 year of the Hegira. A. C. 1388. Serai, and Saraichick never regained their former splendour; but (Giturcan now Astracan) did by degrees recover, but never arrived to that height it attained unto during the Empire of the Chazari and Zavolgensian Tartars. For Josaphat Barbaro, and Ambrosio Contarini, who were both Ambassadors from the Venetians unto Usun Cassan Emperor of Persia, and well acquainted with those Parts; Barbaro living sixteen years at the City Tana on the mouth of the River Tanais; and Contarini being forced in his return from Persia to reside there some months: They, I say, both tell us, That this City before its destruction by Tamerlane, was a very famous Emporium; all the Silks, most of the Spices and other Commodities, which were afterwards brought down to Syria, were then carried by Shipping to Astracan (which they both name Citrachan) and thence by Land in a few days to Tana, whether the Venetians sent every year sixteen great Galleys. But after its subversion by Tamerlane, this Commerce ceased, and the Galleys received their Lading in Syria, and at Alexandria of Egypt. In the time of the forementioned Writers, which was from the year 1436, when Barbaro first went to Tana, until his return out of Persia in 1488. And Contarini, who returned not long before him, Citrachan was a mean Town, consisting chief of Tartarian Huts, and encompassed with a pitiful mudwall, a place of no considerable Traffic, only the Muscovites fetched thence Fish and Salt. But Juan Vassilowich having reduced it in the year 1554 under his Dominion, it hath been by succeeding Emperors both fortified and enlarged: I shall say no more concerning it, Olearius a most diligent and judicious Writer, having left us so particular a Description thereof. I shall only add, That I suppose the cause of so different names, as Gitterchan, Citrachan, and Astrachan, were occasioned by the Princes, who successively presided, as is very obvious to any who are acquainted with the Customs of the Arabians, Persians, Turks, and other Eastern People. But to return unto our Zavolgentian Tartars, so called by the Neighbouring Slavonic Nations, because the Seat of their Empire, and their chiefest places of Residence were on, or near the Volga (which River did also almost equally divide their Territory) Za being only an Expletive Particle, as I could manifest by Induction of several Russian, Polish, and Lithuanian Names of Men and Countries. After the devastation of their Country they would notwithstanding have soon recovered their former Grandeur, had not Divisions and Intestine Wars long kept them low; and at length after divers wonderful and great Revolutions given the Russes leisure first to breath, and then invite them to deprive them of the best part of their Dominion. They not able to resist, being broken, as I said, by Discord and Division into divers petty Principalities. And on the other side, the Crim Tartar, assisted by the Turk, subdued the remainder, whereby that Tribe which before was comparatively inconsiderable, became Supreme, and is at this day a terror unto all the North-East Countries of Christendom. To show in what manner, and by what degrees all this was transacted, is rather matter of a just History, than of a Preface; the decorum whereof I have already transgressed, in making a Porch almost as large as the main Building, to which it should serve only for an Entrance. I shall therefore conclude with some short and slight Remarks on divers Passages in our Author's Relation. His account of the Periplus of the Euxine Sea, (leaving out what he allows for the Teine Sea, or Palus Maeotis) differs little in number of Miles from that of Arrian, though they disagree somewhat in particular distances; and is wonderfully consonant to that calculation of Eratosthones, Hecataeus, Ptolemy, and Ammianus Marcellinus, who reckon it to amount unto 23000 Stadia, or 2875 Miles, which wants but 15 of our Traveller's Computation. He is also more particular, and I believe, more exact than any I have hitherto met with, in his Description of Crim or Taurica Chersonesus, whose length and breadth he gives us in several places directly, or by consequence. What he tells us concerning Arbotka and the great Field without it, surrounded by the Sea he calls The Ratten Sea, is scarcely mentioned by any Modern Geographer, but wonderfully consonant to what is delivered by Strabo. Arbotka seems to be Taphre, the Ratten Sea, he calls 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, or Lacus putris, and affirms to be part of the Palus Maeotis: in compass 4000 furlongs, with divers other particulars, confirming our Traveller's Discourse, as may be read at large in his seventh Book. And I find in a Discourse published by Mr. Thevenot concerning the Tartars, written lately by a Religious Missionary who long resided in those parts, a Description of this place very suitable unto our Author. His words are these, speaking of the most remarkable places in Crim. Arbotec est un Chasteau avec une tour scituée sur la col d'une Peninsule que est enfermée entre la Mer de Limen, & Tineka Woda cette gorge n'a plus d'un quart de lief, elle est traversee d'une Pallisade qui s'ende d'une Mer a l'autre: la Peninsule est appellée par nos Cosaques Cosa, a cause q'elle a la forme d'une faulx, c'est on ce lieu ou le Chan tient son Haras qui est bien de septante mille Chevaux. Et il est un destroit entre la terre ferme e Cosa 200 pas de large qui est gayable quand il est calm, le Cossaques le passent quand ils vont derober le Chevaux de haras de Cham. What our Author tells us of the Communication between the Tanais and Volga at Camusshanka, is particularly described by Olearius, who wrote many years after him; who also agrees with us in his account of the Rivers of Circassia, and Comukes Country; only our Writer is more punctual in his Description of their Sources and Course, and mentions two or three omitted by Olearius, or unknown to him. A frequent mention is made by Procopius, Agathias, and others of the Bizantine Historians, of that straight passage between Georgia and Anadoule, or as they word it, between Colchis and Asia Minor, or Armenia. Our Author having given an account of the Course of the Volga, and of the most remarkable places lying upon, or near it; at last assures us, That it empties itself into the Caspian Sea only by 22 Mouths, whose names he there rehearses: whereas other Writers ascribe unto it 70 Entrances, though as Olearius judiciously observes, most of them are rather passages made by the Sea between Islands and broken Ground, than proper distinct Arms or Branches of the forementioned Rivers. What is said concerning the Cossacks retiring unto, and nesting in an Island of the Caspian Sea, is confirmed by a late French Writer, who long resided in Persia, He largely acquaints us with the great spoil these Outlaws made on the Coast of Mesanderon, that they took Asterabath one of the Emperor's Royal Seats, and having continued several days in possession, retired with great Booty and little loss. I could render some probable account of those Thiefs our Writer calls Sigakes, of what Nation they are, when they began, and how they live; but shall for brevity-sake wave this and divers other Remarks; and that I may manifest how impartial my sentiments are in reference unto the Treatise I have here published, I shall first acknowledge, That I never met with any Writer who calls that vast Plain between the Rivers Boristhenes and Tanais the Desert of Ingel and Vngul, although I have seen divers Journals both Ancient and Modern, of Persons who have frequently traversed that vast Region: and have read most Histories, and perused Geographical Books or Tables that relate unto the Tartars, or their Country. Secondly, I must declare my distrust of his computation concerning the compass of the Caspian Sea; which he makes less than in truth it is as I could largely demonstrate; though he hath pretty well salved the mistake, by his allowance of a thousand Miles for Bays, broken Ground, and Promontories. Lastly, Our Author is greatly mistaken, when he affirms, There is no Nation of Tartars between those of Bochara and China; whereas indeed several very Potent Kingdoms intervene. And yet he hath luckily Andabatorum more, hit upon the Truth, where he assures us, there are no Catayans between the Usbeg Tartars and China. For indeed there is at present no Catayne besides China, which is so called by all Tartars, Persians, Arabians, and other Mahometans, as also by the Muscovites and other Nations who travel thither by Land, either in the Quality of Ambassadors, or Merchants. Though formerly there was a mighty People, either Turks or Tartars (they being both Originally the same, as to Extract, Language, Manners, Religion, and Government) who lay directly in the way between Persia and China, and were certainly the Chatae of Ptolemy, but almost extirpated by Jingiz Chan, whom they vigorously resisted. And the remainder have ever since gone under the more general Names of Moguls and Tartars, as I shall hereafter more clearly and fully demonstrate in a Discourse which I have long ago written, and may speedily publish, concerning the Beginnings and Progress of the Turkish and Tartarian Nations and Empires. Right Honourable and my most Worthy Lord, BEing given to understand, That I have been represented unto your Lordship, by several who bear me no good will, as a Person possessed with that Vanity, which ordinarily prevails among Travellers, of affirming I was well acquainted with divers countries' and Languages, whereunto I am utterly a stranger: And perceiving that none of my Discourses have more exposed me unto this Censure, than a pretended monstrous rash Assertion (but indeed a real Truth) That I knew and had visited all the countries' surrounding the Black and Caspian Seas: I thought myself necessarily obliged in order unto my Vindication, to draw up a short Account of all those Countries, which do encompass the forementioned Seas, most of which Places I have personally surveyed, and fear not any Reprehension or Confutation, being resolved to declare nothing but what I saw, or received from such who were best able to give me full and faithful Information. And I am well assured, That the more strict and judicious Enquiry is made into this my Report, the more favour and credit I shall gain with your Lordship, and all other considering impartial Persons. I shall first begin with the Black Sea, as being that wherewith I was first acquainted, and near unto this most famous City of Constantinople, where your Lordship may easily learn, whether I am guilty of either falsehood or mistake; and if I am found upon due Enquiry to declare any manifest Untruth, I deserve not only unparallelled Reproaches, but the most severe and exemplary Punishments which I should justly merit, when owing Life and Liberty unto your Lordship's Bounty and Compassion, I should instead of a grateful Acknowledgement, present your Honour with a heap of impudent Falsities. I will begin my Relation or Peregrination, from that side of the Black Sea on which Constantinople is situated, and round the said Sea, until I return to Scodra, which is in Asia opposite thereunto. The first Province is Romella; the second Wallakie; the third Ackremen; the fourth Crim; the fifth the great Desert of Ingul and Ungule, which is between Crim and Asshowa; the sixth is the Little Nagoy; the seventh Circassia; the eighth Abassa; the ninth is Mingrellia; then Georgia; and lastly Anatolia. All which Countries are subjected unto the Turk; besides the great Desert, the Little Nagoy and Circassia. I shall now mention the most noted Places which I know from Fennara, which is about the entrance into the Black Sea, unto the River of the Danaw, so to the Neistre, from thence unto the Nepper, so round about Crim, unto the Gulf that goeth from the Black Sea into the Teine Sea, and thence unto Asshowa. As I said, near the Entrance into the Black Sea is Fennara, than Innatada, Missewra, Warna, Balshick, Mangalley, Constancha, Karaharman, Keelley, Ackremen, Osshackowa, upon the mouth of the River of the Neppre. Now I shall declare the Distances of these Places from each other; the number of miles being the space betwixt what foregoes and immediately ensues. From Finnara to Inatada 80 miles; to Missewra 90; to Warna 100; to Balshick 16; to Mangalley 40; to Constancha 40; to Caraharman 40; to Kelley 80; to Ackremen or Beallohorda 100; to Osshakowa 80; in all 666 miles; and from Osshakowa, which is in the mouth of the Nepper, unto the River Don (or Tanais) is 500 miles; the Voyage by Sea and journeying by Land being much at one, viz. 1186 miles, unless you go by Land unto Precop, about Crim, and so unto Asshowa, where the Don falls into the Teine Sea (Palus Maeotis) and then it amounts unto at the least 1500 miles. Were it not for the forementioned great Rivers of the Danaw (Danubius) and the Nepper (Boristhenes) there would be almost continual Wars between the Turks and Tartars, and the Poles, Lithuanians and Muscovites; for the Danaw is one of the greatest Rivers in the World arising in Dutchland, whence it passes through Hungary, Wallachy, and at the Town of Kelley falls into the Black Sea. It hath four Mouths or Entrances into the said Sea, which the Turks call Bohasses, Boctegen Bohasse, Edreleisse Bohasse, Sullena Bohasse, and Kelley Bohasse. It abounds with Fish, as Sturgeon, Morone, and Sheveroke, besides divers sorts of smaller Fish. The Neistre is a River that comes from Lithuania, and runs into the Black Sea under Bealohorda. The Nepper comes from Lithuania and Russland, runs by Smolensko and Kiovia to the Porrocks or Falls, thence to Aslamgorode, and falls into the Black Sea at Osshakowa. It abounds with many sorts of good Fish, and all along its Banks feed innumerable wild Beasts of divers kinds. The Town of Aslamgorod stands upon the Nepper; and in former times there dwelled in it two Brothers, Ingul and Ungul, who fell first at variance, which ended in cruel Wars, by reason whereof the adjacent Country became, though otherwise pleasant and fruitful, a very Wilderness. And besides, the Cossacks increasing on both sides the Nepper and upon the Don, would never since suffer that Country to be quietly possessed by these, or any other Hordes of Tartars; so that now it lieth waste, being a vast Desert 500 miles over, and 1000 miles long, from the shallow Waters near Precop, unto the Country of Muscovy. About 1625 the Grand Signior sent an Army from Constantinople to rebuild Aslamgorod, with Orders to inhabit the Country, and invite such thereunto as would become subject unto the Turkish Government. But they who arrived, finding the Town of great Compass, built only a Castle on the Bank of the Nepper, and left 300 Men in Garrison. At the same time Shaugary Prince of Crim, being beat out of his Country by his General Chan Timur Myrsa, retired unto the Cossacks upon the Nepper, and having contracted a Friendship with them and the bordering Russes, by their assistance he gathered an Army of 40000 Men, and marched towards Crim, leaving behind him a revolted Ottoman, with a Brigade of 3 or 4000 Men, who immediately after the departure of Sultan Shaugary, marched directly towards Aslamgorod, and early in a Morning surprised the Castle, then in the possession of the Turks, put every Man in Garrison to the Sword, slighted the Walls and other Fortifications, retired with the Spoil, and marched to join Sultan Shaugary, who in the interim arrived near Precop, where he was met by Chan Timur, and totally defeated, but by good fortune escaped, and by the way of Astracan got to Persia. From the Nepper we will pass unto Crim, with which Country I am well acquainted, having against my will resided there some years. Crim is a small Land, so near as I can conjecture 200 miles long, and 50 miles broad, but is wonderfully populous, and exceedingly fruitful, abounding with Corn and Grass; the only scarcity they have is Wood, which grows no where but upon the Sea-Coast, from Bakessey Seray unto the Town of Crim, which in former times was the chief City: All the rest of the Land is a Plain, where they have no Wood to burn, nor any sort of Fuel, but Fissheke, Fusshane, Curay, and Stroa. The Land is enclosed with the Sea, excepting at two places, Precop, and Arbotka. By Precop there is a narrow passage, through which you may go to the Nepper, Lithuania, or Muscovy, through the Deserts of Ingul and Ungul; and there is a Water comes from the Teine Sea, called the shallow Water, and goeth along the Desert, until it comes to Precop, upon Westside of Crim and by North, where it turns back on the North-side of Crim is almost surrounded with Water; for the Black Sea is on the one side, and the Ratten Sea on the other, which latter produces nothing but Salt, for it is so salt, that no Fish can live therein; I have reason to know it, because I lived in a Village which was called Seekely Otta Mamutachy. The Towns round about Crim on the Seaside are these, Precop, Cuslowa, Crim, Caffa, Kerse and Arbotka; and within the Land, Carasu, Ackenesh, Messheite, and Bakessy Seray. The Town of Arbotka lieth on the North-East side of Crim, between the Black and Ratten Seas, which there come so near together, that there is no more Land between them, than that whereon the Town of Arbotka stands; and without Arbotka is a great Field 50 miles long enclosed with Water, where the Tartars in Winter do keep their Hergels or Horses, which Field goeth to the shallow Waters, where I ran away from the Tartars. I shall here take my leave of Crim, and pass unto the Little Nagoy, to Asshowa, on the River Don, which runs down from Bealla Ossharra, through the Country of Russia, between Russia and Lithuania, until it comes to Peilesboy, not far from the Wolga; for from Peilesboy to the River Camusshanka, is not above 20 miles all level, which is called Perewolog, where the Cossacks do draw their Strukes or Boats upon Wheels, to the River of Camusshanka, by which they pass into the Volga; whereupon this Place is called Perewolog. The Don runs down between the Little Nagoy and the Deserts of Ingel and Ungule, so to Asshowa, right under the Town, and there falls into the Tein Sea. This River is full of Fish, especially Sturgeons; well inhabited by Cossacks, for there are seldom less than 10000 upon it, besides those that go on Freebooting. There are also 16 Gorodkees, or strong Sconces, well manned, and with store of great Guns, they being in continual fear of the Turks and Tartars, and sometimes also of the Muscovites. The Little Nagoy lies between the Tein and Caspian Seas, the former on the West, the latter on the East, Shercassen to South, and the Volga on the North; and there is never a Town in all this Country excepting Asshowa. It is inhabited by Tartars, who go altogether in Hordes; their Prince in my Time was Cassay Myrsa, whom the Tartars call also Sultan Ulugh, or the Great Prince. They sow no Corn but Pross, which they sow upon the Seaside up unto Asshowa; and after sowing they depart with their Hordes, and graze up and down the Deserts to the Don, to Capbane, Shurpoha, Yedecul, Comma and Curray, to Masshargorodoke, and to Shercassen Land, under the Rivers Terigke, and Balk, and almost to Pettigor, and by the River of Cupba, and back again unto the Black Sea. Thus they ramble all the Summer, until their Harvest be ripe, and their Pross gathered, and put into Yams under ground; after which they settle from Asshowa, all along the Seaside, amongst the Reeds, and leave their Horses to winter in the Deserts. So I shall leave the Little Nagoy, and pass unto Temerassa, in Shercassen Land, which is 500 miles from Asshowa. Now in all Circassia are but two Towns, Temerossa on the Black Sea, upon the Gulf that goeth from the Black Sea into the Tein Sea, right over against Arbotka. The other is Tumein, upon the Caspian Sea, the distance between them being 1100 miles; and all the rest of the inhabited Places are only Cubbacks made in the Woods, piled round with Timber. Their Houses are very high, in the midst whereof they make the Fire. Their Men are proper Men, very like the Irish both for person and garb; for they go in Trowses, with short Mantles, wear long Hair on both sides of their Heads, with a shorn Crown between. Their Women are very beautiful, and loving to Strangers; for if a Stranger come unto their Houses, their young Women and Maidens will look Lice in their Shirts, and all about them, the most private parts not excepted, and will allow them the liberty to examine and handle all parts of their Bodies besides their Breasts. The Circassians are excellent Horsemen, and very courageous, but withal exceedingly ignorant and superstitious; for when they kill a Goat or Kid, they cut off the privy parts, and cast it against a Wall, if it stick, they pray to it; if otherwise, they cast it away, and spread the Skin upon Stakes, place it in their, Cornfields, and worship it. They have no Writing among them, yet pretend to be good Christians. Do strangely bewail the Dead, making great Cries, scratch their Hands and Faces, until they draw much Blood, knock their Foreheads against the ground, until Knobs arise bigger than Plums. The Men are notorious Thiefs, stealing from each other, and he that steals most is accounted the bravest Fellow. Their Country is very fruitful, abounding with most sorts of Grain; and they have store of excellent Grass. They have also much Fruit growing wild; many sorts of Beasts, as Hearts, Hinds, Kine, Eissubrass, Hogs and great Adders. The considerable Rivers which I know are Cubba, which runs from Pettigor, between Shercassen Land and the Little Nagoy, betwixt Termerossa and Asshowa, 20 miles from Temerossa it falls into the Jein Sea, and hath a Course of 500 miles. The next is the River of Balk, which comes out from Cabardy, and falls into the River of Terigke, 200 miles from its Source; which River of Terigke descends from the Mountains between Shollohofe Knasse and Mundarawa Knasse, runs through the Country almost due East, passes by Goracho Colloda, thence to the Shussa, and the Shunsa, so on to the Weistra; and 6 miles from Tumein, between Tumein and the Commocks Country, it falls into the Caspian Sea, having a Course of 600 miles. There is another River called Tumenka, which is a branch of Terigke, runs through Tumeine Town, and 3 miles beyond it enters the Caspian Sea. There is also another River which they call Keeslar, which falls out of Terigke, and 60 miles from Tumeine is received by the Caspian Sea. Having formerly mentioned Pettigor, I shall give you some Account thereof. Pettigor being interpreted, is in English 5 Hills. They are five very great and high Mountains, distant about 500 miles from the Black Sea, and 700 from the Caspian beyond Cabardy. I came thus to know them: In the year 1618. I was sent with Shiedake Myrsa, from Astracan to the Little Nagoy, to seize upon Orrake Myrsa, who being informed of our coming, fled up to Pettigor; yet he made not such hast but we overtook him, and having fought, overcame him, and took away his Hordes, by which means I became acquainted with Pettigor. Nevertheless there are higher Hills than Pettigor, as Sneesnagore in Cabardy, which is incredibly high, which is in English, the Hill of Snow; for upon that and Shadgore, which signifies a wonderful high Hill, and overtops the former, and so along for 100 miles, from Cabardy to Shollohofe, prodigious quantities of Snow are lodged, which its thought were never dissolved since the Creation. I asked a Circassian, Whether ever any Man arrived at the top of Shadgore, which to me seemed much elevated above the rest; who answered me, They had a Tradition among them, that formerly a Bohatteere, whose Name was Hroda, attempted to climb it, and after two or three days hard labour, arrived not unto the middle; but after a few days, being better accommodated, he returned, with a resolution, if it were possible, to see the top, but was never afterwards heard of; and added, That it was to that day customary for the neighbouring Circasstans, at a certain season of the year, with divers Ceremonies and great Lamentations to bewail his loss. The next Country to Sheercassen Land is Abassa, which is situated between Circassia and Mingrellia, and the Inhabitants are a kind of Circassians. Mingrellia is under the Dominion of the Turks, and lies on the Black Sea. Of these two Countries I have no great knowledge, having only coasted them three or four times in Boats, when I was among the Cossack's, where also we landed divers times, taking store of Kine and Sheep, but no Prisoners, because they affirmed themselves to be Christians. They are a proper handsome People, but very poor, and notorious Thiefs, for they steal not only Goods, but even Women and Children from each other, and sell them unto the Turks and Tartars chief for Salt, which is there very scarce. Next unto Mingrellia is Georgia, whose Inhabitants are little better than the former, only they have a kind of Scripture; for they worship Idols or Images, yet have Cloisters, and a sort of Monks, with some Priests of the Greek Belief. I once landed in Georgia with an Army of 5000 Men, we marched up into the Country, until we came within a days journey of Deimur Capou, or the Iron Gate, which is a narrow passage between Georgia and Anatolia, with Rocks on each side, and a strong Town built in the midst: We stayed ten days ravaging the Country; they told us, this Town and Castle belonged to the King of Persia, and there is no other passage out of Georgia into Persia but through it. The next Country unto Georgia is Anatolia, where our Traveller resided several years, having been sold by the Precopensian Tartars, unto a Turkish Spahi or Timariot; of which Country, and the Manners of the Inhabitants, he gives a large Description: But we being sufficiently informed thereof by divers intelligent Europeans, who dwelled long in those Parts, shall with our Traveller pass on to those Countries which are less known. But first we will take his Account of the Periplus of the Euxine or Black Sea. From Fennara, which is at the head of the Straight or Gulf that enters the Black Sea to Precop, is 700 miles; from thence to Caffa, a noted City and Port in Crim 300 miles; to Asshowa 500 miles; to Temerossa 500 miles; to Mingrellia 400 miles; to Trebezond 400 miles; and from thence unto Constantinople 1000 miles; in all 3800 miles. Thus much I know of the Black Sea, which I have three times coasted by Sea, and traced above half by Land; so that now it is time to speak concerning the Caspian Sea, and show all the Kingdoms and countries' which lie upon it, beginning at Astracan, and proceeding thence Eastwards, until I return unto the same City from the South. Astracan is placed on a rising ground, not far from the mouth of the Volga, from which it is not distant above 50 miles; it is in an Island on the Great Nagoy side, made by the River Volga, and a branch thereof, having the Caspian Sea on the South. The Town or City is secured by a strong Castle, furnished with store of great Ordnance, and in the midst of the Castle is a Roskade, which commands both Castle, Town, and the Fields round about for above a mile. The Tartar's Town is adjoining, placed near unto Cutuma, which is a River naturally derived from the Volga, or one of its many branches; so that the Town is encompassed with Waters, having the main body of the Volga on the West, and Cutuma on the East. Now if you would know whence the Volga comes, I will acquaint you with what I have learned from the Muscovites. It's utmost Source is said to be at the foot of a great Tree, whence it runs unto Jerislave 1000 miles; whence it proceeds to Neisna 500 miles, and thence unto Cassan 300 miles; from Cassan to Samara 500; to Saratoft 350 miles; to Saraichena 350, and thence unto Astracan 500 miles; from whence it is, as we said before, unto the Caspian Sea 50 miles; in all 3550 miles. The Volga is a wonderful great River, abounding with divers sorts of great Fish, as Sturgeon, Bellouke, Severuke, Shelren, Sterleke, Some, Sassan, Suke, Soudake, Konnee, Sablee, Lessee, Wobla, Tarane, and many others both great and small, which I cannot readily call unto remembrance, notwithstanding that I dwelled there ten years. The Volga enters the Caspian Sea by 22 mouths, and upon each of them is an Oughsuke or Fish-wear, for to take Sturgeon, every one of which Oughsukes is called by the name of the Water, as Soellova, Dertullee, Bosserigee and Ruslowa upon the main Wolga. Cokelou, Beerullee, Ewansuke, Mansor, Argeessan, Keessan, Camusshuke, Naowara, Tussockly, Collobery, Malla Collobery, Yamansuke, Eirichsha, Surka, Libessha, Bussan, Carabussan, Bealla Wolloskee. In all which Oughsukes or Wears, they take no Fish besides Sturgeon. They are made of Shigenas, or long Poles made sharp at one end, and beaten into the ground under Water, and a pleating made of Rods, somewhat resembling Osier, after the manner of our Mats, which are fastened to the Poles, and hinder the Fish from passing up the River. And Houses are built near the Wears for the Convenience of the Fishers, 40, 50, more or less, according unto the greatness of the Water, or resort of Fish, and twice every day, usually in the morning and evening, they set about their Fishery. They employ only long slender Poles, with an iron Hook or Cruke in the end baited, and do ordinarily take 400 every day in the smaller, and 600 in the larger Streams. The Sturgeon they take is all salted, excepting that wherewith they serve the Town of Astracan, where a whole fair Sturgeon may be bought for ten pence English; and when the great Caravan comes from Russia, it takes off most of their Fish, which is conveyed into divers parts of Muscovy, but chief unto the great City of Moscow. They return also with great quantities of Caviar and Salt, there being not far from the Volga, on the Little Nagoy side, great Salt-pits, which yield an immense quantity of Salt, prepared yearly by the heat of the Sun, without any further trouble, than taking it off the superficies of the Water where it daily kerns. The Volga, a little above Seraichena, 500 miles from Astrachan, dismisses a great Branch named Actabon, which passing through the Deserts of the Great Nagoy through Bussane, enters the Caspian Sea. The remainder of the Volga, after having parted with several smaller Branches, most of which join with the forementioned River, divides the Little and Great Nagoy, passes under the Town of Astrachan, whence it proceeds unto Ruslowa, on the South-west side of Crosna Boggar, then falls into the Caspian. And the distance between the East-side of the Volga near Astrachan, and the River Actabon, is about 20 miles, which is mostly Water and Islands. And that the Course of the Volga from its first Source, until it doth disembogue itself into the Caspian Sea, can be no less than what we have asserted, is hence confirmed, That the Snow which falls abundantly in Russia, and gins to be dissolved about the latter end of April, and do mightily increase the Waters of the Volga, come not unto Astrachan until Midsummer, when it so raises the Volga, that overflowing the Banks, it covers with his Waters all the Islands near Astrachan; so that from the Little Nagoy, unto Actabon in the Great Nagoy, all the Country seems, excepting a Hillock or two, one continued Lake, or a great Gulf of the Sea. Wherefore they who go in the Spring from Astrachan to fetch Wood, having cut it, make great Floats, which are lifted up when the River overflows, and guided each by a few Men, until they are brought unto Astrachan, or those other places for which they are designed. The most remarkable Towns and Habitations upon the Volga, between Seraichena and Astrachan, (which are 500 miles distant from each other) are Camena, Rokegowa, Osshenofka, Chornoyar, Borisse, Offatalka, Poollowoy, Collmakof Satone, Cossoyar, Crosnoyar, Nassonoyar, Satone, Yanatavy, Daneelofka, Perre Ousshake, Eillansuke, Eiskyborro, Crukla, Bussan, Balsheeke, Tollotonygorod, Dolgoa, Goradocha (which was old Astrachan) Sharina, Bogor, which is near Astrachan, besides many other Places, with whose Names I have not charged my memory. We will now pass over the Volga through Astrachan into the Great Nagoy. The Great Nagoy may be properly enough divided into Islands and Continent; the former are made by the Volga, and several Rivers which fall out of it, variously mixed with each other, and are all at length emptied into the Caspian Sea. Those Rivers or Branches have their several Names; those which I remember are Cuttoma, Boulda, Malla, Guellusa, Creewantya, Busane, Actabon and Bereket. The Kingdom of the Great Nagoy is all plain and desert; 1200 miles in length between Astrachan and Samara; 500 miles in breadth from the said Astrachan unto the River of the Yeike or Jaick. There is no Wood in all this Country, except what grows near the Rivers. It hath no Towns or fixed Habitations, though it had formerly divers, and some among them very considerable, as Czarofsgorod, or Czarofs Pollate, in English, the Emperor's Town, which formerly must needs have been as its Name imports, an Imperial or Capital City. I have often viewed it with admiration, and cannot compute it to have been less than 20 miles in Circuit; I have told fourscore great eminent Buildings, which must have been either Mosques, Palaces, or Caravanserais, and some of them 6 miles distant from the other. The Muscovites are of divers Opinions concerning its Destruction: Some say it was ruined by the Cossacks; but the Cossacks, who are ready enough to brag of their Achievements, know nothing thereof, only that they have often dispossessed the Russes, when they endeavoured to rebuild part of it. For indeed the Situation is very excellent, having the Volga on one side, the Actabon on the other: The Country very beautiful, healthful and fertile; and yet notwithstanding all these encouragements, it is not yet inhabited, not by the Russes, because it standing on the main Land, they would be continually exposed unto the Inroads of the Tartars; nor by the Tartars, because its nearness unto the Rivers, would render them obnoxious to the Russes, every time the great Caravan passes that way, which is at least twice each year. Yet the Muscovites do frequently fetch Brick and Stones from this ruined City, wherewith they have built a great part of Astrachan, and the neighbouring Forts or Towns, where such solid Materials are employed. But besides this Serai, (for so the Tartars call any fixed Habitation) there were in ancient times five or six more down along the River's side, in each of which formerly dwelled a Chan; but Time and Wars have almost entirely ruined them. There is also another Serai upon the River Jaick named Seraichika, where is said formerly to have been the Residence of a great Myrsa or Chan; but 'tis now quite ruinated. The Tartars who inhabit the Great Nagoy, both Men and Women, are very proper, at least of much taller Stature than many other Tartars, but have ill-favoured Countenances, broad Faces, flat little Noses, small Eyes sunk in their Heads; all which are common to most of the Eastern Tartars. But the Tartars of Crim are more comely, which, I suppose, may partly proceed from their Wives, who are many of them Captive Circassians, Russes, Poles, Hungars, and of divers other Nations. The Nagoy Tartars are also Black or rather Tawny; which I Conjecture is not so much natural, as proceeding from the heat of the Sun, which is in these Parts some Months of the Year much more Excessive than one would expect from the Climate. And besides, their Children go stark naked during the great heats in Summer. It is also remarkable, That the Cold in Winter in the same Country is exceeding severe, and one would think to them who have such mean accommodation, intolerable. These Nagoy Tartars have great store of Cattle, as Kine, Sheep, Horses and Camels, and yet notwithstanding they are very ill clad, most of their Clothing being Sheepskins, and those but scurvily dressed. They have no sort of Corn or Grain, mightily scorning the Europeans and Persians, whose chief Diet, they say, is the top of a pitiful weed. Polygamy is not only allowed, but altogether in fashion among them, most having divers Wives, more or fewer according unto their Quality and Ability; who unless they are Captivated by War, are such as they buy of their Parents or Kindred for Cattle. If one Brother die, the other takes all his Wives, who are usually 5. or 6. But if all the Brothers die, either in War or by Diseases, than they are devolved like other Goods and Chattels unto the Elder Brother's Son, they never suffering any married Woman, during life, to go out of the Kindred. Here our Author hath inserted a Discourse concerning divers odd, and some barbarous Customs which have long prevailed among the Nagoy Tartars, and wherewith they will not easily Dispense. But they giving little light unto History or Geography, I have not thought them worthy the trouble of transcribing; ne'er do I apprehend they would afford any considerable instruction or divertisement unto the Reader. These Tartars of the Great Nagoy when they remove their habitation, transport their Houses from place to place in Wagons with 4 Wheels, which are drawn usually by Camels; thoy pass up and down the Country in great Hordes, their ordinary march is from the Volga unto Buskowshake; thence to Voroslane, Samara, Eirgeesse, Eishene, Ougogura, Reimpeska, and all along under the Calmukes Country, until they arrive at the Jaick or Yeike: Sometimes they pass by Cassoone, Aurrow, Camoyes Samar, and so to Saraichika: This is ordinarily their Summer Progress. Against Winter they return unto those parts of the Country which border upon the Caspian Sea. As Baksake upon the Caspian Sea; Beallnssa, Kitgach, Sheennamara, Coudake, Caradowan, Actabon; and higher upon the Volga, scattering themselves upon the Seashore and Banks of the Rivers among the Reeds and Woods, or wheresoever they find the Climate most mild and best Defence against the Cold, which in the Winter is in those Parts extremely severe; so that 'tis hard to determine whether they suffer more from the Heat in Summer, or Cold in Winter. During which latter Season they leave their Hergels or Horses, and most of their greater Cattle to shift for themselves in the Deserts. Having had often occasion to mention the River Jaicke or Yeike, I shall here give a short account of what I have observed and learned concerning its Rise and Course. It comes from the Calmukes Land, where it is thought to spring; though some of the Russes affirm it, Fountains are more Remote in Siberia, the Southern parts of which is also inhabited if not possessed by the Kalmukes, some of whose Ulysses or Hordes are subject unto the Muscovites; others in League with them: but they have sometimes cruel Wars, and did formerly destroy Tumen with some other Towns and Castles of the Russes, who they apprehended did encroach too fast upon them. But to return unto the Course of the Yeik, after it hath passed through the Calmukes Country, it divides the Great Nagoy from Cassachy Horda, and after it hath passed in all a Thousand miles, throws itself into the Caspian Sea a little below Seraichika. This is a very large River, and the Land on each side well clothed with Wood, Grass, divers sorts of Herbs and wild Fruits, and the Water full of good Fish; which Conveniences do ofttimes invite the Cossacks to make their abode there, and from thence they make Incursions on divers parts bordering on the Caspian Sea. This River, among divers other Fish, doth so wonderfully abound with Sturgeon, that a man may stand upon the Bank side with a Pole in hand armed at the end with an Iron Crook, make choice of what Sturgeon best pleaseth him, which he shall rarely fail of taking though never so inexpert in Fishing, if he have but strength or help to draw it on Land. Not far from the Mouth of the Jaick in the Caspian Sea near the Shore, are many Coves and Corners which they call Lapateens and Cultukes, which are always full of Swans usually swimming on the Sea, which are so numerous, that it is impossible to make any reasonable Computation thereof. These Swans after Midsummer every Year cast their Feathers, a little before which time there parts from Astracan many Boats which are manned by Russes, and most of them are their Youth; after a passage of 500 miles they arrive at these places which the Swans mostly haunt, and having filled their Boats with Swans Skins and Feathers, they return unto Astracan, where a great Trade is driven with the Persians who give ordinarily a Dollar apiece for these Skins. The next Country unto the Great Nagoy towards the East is Cassachy Horda, which hath, as I said, on the West the Jaick, by which it is divided from the Great Nagoy. On the North the Kalmukes, North East the Yurgeach, or Jurgench. Tartars, and to the South the Caspian Sea and Caragans, who inhabit on the North East side of the Caspian Sea. These Cassachy Tartars march up and down the Country much after the manner of the Nagoys. They have frequent Wars with the Kalmukes and Yurgeachians; but seldom with either Nagoys or Caragans. Only after the manner of most other Tartars they will clandestinely steal even from those Neighbours with whom they have the most uninterrupted and profound Peace. Cassachy Horda is altogether Desert, excepting some Woods Northward, bordering upon the Kalmucks, where there are divers small Rivers which empty themselves into the Jaick; which River is also in most places bordered with Woods unto its Entrance into the Caspian Sea. And therefore the Inhabitants may well be named Cassachy Horda, or Wild people, as the name imports: They sow no sort of Corn, their chief Food being Horseflesh and Mare's milk; which is also common to divers other Nations of the Tartars. On the North of Cassachy Horda dwell the Kalmuke Tartars, if such a life as they lead may be called dwelling. The Country they inhabit deserves a better People, the Land abounding with all things necessary for a Comfortable subsistence. This Country hath store of Sables, Marterns, Black Foxes, Squirrels, and several other sorts of Furs, which they Exchange with the Russes for Aquavitae, Mead, Tobacco, and other Commodities. This Country hath some Towns, as Siberia, the Head of a Province of the same name, and Tumen, both which the Russes have gained from them: Ouffha, Wadle, Sellona, Lucomoria, which latter place, they say, is situated upon a Cold Sea. But Ouffha is a midland Town, 500 miles from Cassan which is near the Volga. The Kalmukes are accounted good Soldiers, being kept in continual Exercise by the Muscovites on the one side, the Nagoyans and Cassachy-Horda on the other. Their unmarried Women do not only accompany the Men unto the Wars, but are said to be little inferior unto the Men in Skill and Valour, shooting almost as strongly and dexterously as the men, from whom they cannot be distinguished by their Garb, being apparelled and riding much after the same manner: Both Men and Women in all their Expeditions seldom carry along with them fewer than 5 or 6 Horses apiece. I cannot precisely determine what their Religion is, but I do perceive by Converse with them, that they have a more favourable opinion of the Christians than of the Mahometans, or of some of their fellow Ethnics; for if I mistake not, they are Heathens, I not being able to discern among them any Religious Worship, excepting some kind of Adoration which they pay unto the Sun and Moon. They have a very peculiar kind of Diet; for besides Horseflesh, which is a great Dainty, they scruple not to eat Snakes, Adders, Foxes, and indeed even Carrion of divers sorts of Creatures, such Food as to Europeans would be intolerable, even in the greatest Famine. They wear a kind of Caps or Hats which are called by the Muscovites, Coulpacks, open before and behind, with broad Brims on each side. And thereupon they are called by the other Tartars, Calmukes. Eastward from these Calmukes, inclining unto the South towards China, live the Yurgeachians, so named from their chief Town, which some call Yurgeach, others Jurgench: Of which Country I cannot say so much as concerning the former, having never been therein but once; for in the Year 1620. there being great Wars in Jurgeach, between the Chan or King, and the Myrsa his Son; some of the Nagoy Tartar's hearing thereof, invaded the Country, who whilst they were united, durst not peep out of their own Borders, the Jurgeachians being a numerous and warlike People. These Nagoys were all Volunteers, who went without any Command from their own Prince, or Allowance from the Muscovites, without whose consent by mutual Agreement they are not permitted to war. The news of their Expedition being brought unto Astracan, the Voyvod, who had not long before made a League with the Jurgeachians, sent out Allye (I suppose his true Name was Ali or Hali) Myrsa a Tartarian Prince, with a 1000 of his own Subjects, and 500 Russes, all Horse. We were 20 days marching, before we came unto the Borders of Jurgeach from Astracan; whence we proceeded 10 days journey, the Country through which we passed being miserably ravaged by the aforesaid Nagoys. At the end of which 30 days by a reasonable Computation, 'twas judged we were distant from Astracan at least a 1000 miles; about which time we overtook them in the Valley of Ougogura, having got from the Jurgeachians an innumerable company of Cattle of divers sorts, as Horse, Kine, Camels and Sheep. We took all their Booty from them; and as a further punishment for their Riot, took away their own supernumerary Horses, leaving them only a Horse a Man for to convey them home. Then Ally Myrsa divided the Spoil, half he bestowed upon those who did accompany him, and sent the remainder for a Present unto the Voyvod, returning nothing unto the Jurgeachians because they were taken from Thiefs. In the mean while the Prince of Jurgeach in a pitched Battle overthrew his Father, took him Prisoner, put out both his Eyes, and caused himself to be Crowned King. He had a younger Brother, whom fearing that in time he might occasion some insurrection, he gave Command unto some of his Creatures, that they should strangle him, and bring his Head: But divers of the Nobles, by whose means he obtained the Sovereignty, gaining intelligence thereof, would not permit his Order to be put in execution; but seizing on the Child, sent him unto the Emperor of Muscovy, with whom he remained when I was last at Astracan. But I must return from the Jurgeachians unto the Caragans, whom I have left behind, and they do more immediately refer unto my promise, which was to give an Account of all the Nations and countries' encompassing the Caspian Sea. The Country of the Caragans occupies most of that vast space, which intercedes between the River Yeike and the Dominions of the Ousbegs, or Tartars of Bouchara, and their Territory surrounds the North-East corner of the Caspian Sea, proceeding Southwards unto the River Jaxartes; and some Hordes of the said People do inhabit between the said River and the Oxus, which divides the Tartars of Bochara and the Caragans, from the Persians and the Tartars of Balk. This Country of the Caragans is very desert and barren; the People miserably poor; their Houses are wretched Huts, the greatest part under ground; they are very tawny and ill-favoured; their Habitations are scattered, scarcely deserving the Name of Villages: And they have no Town, as I have been informed, besides Preesslannes, which is situated on the Southside of the Jaxartes, near the Caspian Sea; which whilst I dwelled in Astracan, was by surprise taken by the Cossacks; but they had little cause to brag of their Victory, finding little booty therein; and the Caragans gathering together, beat them out with great loss of Men, forcing them to retire into an Island 2 or 3 leagues from the Land which they possess unto this day, no Nation being able, or else not caring to unnest them, although Tartar's, Persians and Muscovites, do continually suffer by their Depredations. Towards the East and by South of the Caragans, dwell the Tartars of Bochara, who are by divers called Yusbegs. The Country which they possess is better watered, and more fertile than most of the preceding, and there is great resort of Merchants from divers Parts unto them, especially Persians, Muscovites, and several Nations of Indians, as Moguls, Boutans, with many others, whose Names I cannot recollect. I have been also told, That the Chineses do sometimes trade with them. I am persuaded, that this is the famed Kingdom of Cataye; for the Catayans are a sort of Tartars, and I know no other Tartars between this Country and China. Caragan lieth from them to the North-West; Urgenshe due North; China to the East; the Tartars of Balk to the South; and the Persians South and by West; and the Caspian Sea duly West. They are almost continually in Wars with the Persians. The next Country I am to describe is Persia, in which Land I was never, excepting once, in that part thereof which borders upon the Comukes; but I have conversed with several Persian Merchants at Astracan, who came by Shipping from Gilan, which when the Wind is very fair and good, they sail in 2 or 3 days and nights. They wear Turbans like the Turks, and so do the Bouchars. Therefore not having seen much of Persia, nor having sufficiently informed myself concerning it, I shall pass through it unto the Comukes Land, of which I have obtained more perfect knowledge both by War and Traffic. This Country is bounded on the South by Persia; on the East by the Caspian Sea; Westward by Circassia; and on the North by the River of Tumeine; on which stands a Town of the same Name, from which unto Chahamate, the most Northerly Habitation of Persia, is 600 miles. A great part of this Country, especially Westward, is very mountainous; I could never learn where it doth exactly terminate. I have been in four of their Towns: The first is Tarkee, where Gildar, whom they own for their Prince, doth ordinarily reside. The second is Derbeine, in the Mountains. The third Derevena, in the same mountainous Tract. The fourth Kossa, upon a River of the same Name, not far from the place where it empties itself into the Caspian Sea. These Comukes are proper Men and very courageous; and that which makes them more daring and adventurous than most Tartars, is the goodness of their Horses, and the advantage of their Arms, both offensive and defensive; for they seldom engage in Wars without Helmets, Jacks of Steel, Shirts of Mail, and Targets, which excepting those times wherein they fight, hang behind their backs, being very light, and not very large, and therefore not cumbersome. They have, as other Tartars, both Bows and Scimitars, and withal never go without Lances, which they use with great strength and dexterity. In their Apparel they differ little from the Circassians; but as for Religion, they are generally Mahumetans, and their Language is in substance the same with other Tartars, their vicinity unto the Persians, Muscovites and Sheercasses, having somewhat disguised it. The Country they inhabit abounds with Wood; part of it is hilly, with small pleasant Valleys between the Hillocks; and in some places, especially towards Persia, and thence into the Land, it hath many great and almost inaccessible Mountains, by reason of their height and steepness. This Land was reduced under the Government of the Russes many years ago, after the ensuing manner: Evan Vassillywich being Czar or Emperor of Russia, after he had taken Cassan and Astracan, sent part of his Army into Circassia, where they took in Tumeine. Another Body entered the Comukes Country, and possessed themselves of Derevena, Derbeine, Tarkee and Kossa. The Ruff Emperor constituted a Voyvod, whom he ordered to reside in Tarkee, and left with him 10000 Men; he ordered also at the same time another considerable Brigade to stay at Coisa, where he left a great number of Boats and other Vessels, who had brought supplies of Men and Provisions from Moscow, and other Parts of his Dominions. And having, as he apprehended, secured his new Conquests, he returned unto Moscow: Immediately after his retreat, the Comukes gathered their whole Force, and set down before the Town of Tarkee, which after a vigorous resistance they took, and in it with the Voyvod, several Officers of divers Nations, whom with the common Soldiers they sold unto the Circassians, Tartars, and other neighbouring Nations, so that few were ever afterwards recovered. From Tarkee they marched unto Koisa, which by the instruction of Captives, they did pretty regularly besiege and assault, and after some repulses took it by storm, killing all the Russes, excepting such as escaped in the Ships and Boats which lay before the Town. The Ruff Emperor being speedily informed of these Successes, immediately raised a great Army, with which he ordered all the Cossacks between the Don and Volga, unto the River of Tumeine, to join his Forces, and assist them, in order unto the recovery of what he had lost, and utter extirpation of the Comukes: Who hearing how highly the Czar was exasperated, and how great a Force was ready to invade them, they began to be solicitous about the Event; and having consulted together, agreed to make some kind of submission, and sue for pardon and peace. Whereupon they sent Ambassadors unto Tumeine, where the Ruff Army was encamped; and after a Treaty with the Czar's Plenipotentiaries, they agreed upon these Articles, That the Comukes should restore the Towns they had taken, and aid the Emperor with such a number of Soldiers, as he should require, against any Enemy whatsoever; whereunto their Heads being sworn, they have inviolably observed the Agreement unto this day. But it's time we take our leave of Gildar, Prince of Terki, and his Comukes, and proceed into Shercassen Land, part of which, as I hinted before, lies upon the Black Sea, and extends itself unto the Caspian. This side of Circassia which borders upon the Caspian Sea, is a very plentiful Country; and as for Fish, it is so wonderfully plentiful, that in Tumeine you may ordinarily purchase a good Sturgeon for two pence, and sometimes for a penny; a most prodigious quantity of Fish being taken in the River of the Weestra; and about the Island of Chekeine, which is off at Sea not far from Tumeine. On the main Land, over against this Fishery, 4 miles above the River of Terike, there is a great Well, made by a Spring, which falls from a Rock, on the side of a great Hill, and immediately fills this little Lake, which whether it is Natural or Artificial, I know not. The Water of this Lake is so scalding hot, that the Fishers flinging in their Sturgeon or other Fish, it is in a short time boiled, as if over a fire, the heat being so intense, that no Man can detain his Hand in it for a moment; from which strange Quality it derives its Name, being called by the Russes, Goracha Colloda, or the Scalding Well. I shall conclude my Discourse with a short Account of the Little Nagoy, or of that part thereof which confines upon the Caspian; for all that space between Tumeine and Astracan, is by many ascribed unto the Nagoy Tartars. I did before declare, That the Little Nagoy is for the most part a wide waste Desert, the worst of which is all that Tract which lieth between Tumeine and Astracan. These Tartars have no Town but only Asshowa, which is not properly theirs, though lying in their Country, being possessed by the Turks. There is a sort of People in this Country, whom the Tartars call Sigakes; I could never learn what their Language is, or from what Place or Nation they proceed; nor could I understand after what manner they live, whether they have any Religion, or Civil Government. Their chief Subsistence is what they gain from the Tartars; for they gather sometimes 2 or 3000, and rob the smaller Hordes of the Tartars, and those which are most remote from help. But sometimes the Tartars discovering the place of their Retreat or Rendezvous, surround them with their Carts, and then fall in, cut them all off, never giving Quarter unto any; no Crime being so severely punished amongst the Tartars as Thievery; which makes me apprehend, that these Sigakes are some of their own People, who formerly deserted them upon some extraordinary occasion: But whatsoever is the reason, they do most irreconcilably hate each the other. The most noted Places on that side the Little Nagoy, which regards the Caspian Sea, and lie all along the Coast from Tumeine to Astracan, are Sheerlona Year (where I was first taken Prisoner by the Tartars) Peremetka, Arsi Bash, Moyackee, Bealla Oshera Bashmachake, Kaboylly Machakofska, Chostoway, and so over the Volga unto Astracan. And to conclude all, I shall here enumerate all the Places on the Coast near Astracan, which have Names that are considerable for Havens, Trade, Fishing, or any other remarkable Circumstance. Soteeza Bockgra, Ueuslowa Cossa, Beerulska Cossa, Ewanshoska Cossa, Seamme Bogoroffe, Tussocleoff Lapateene, Chaska Cossa, Crosna Bogore, Cocklouska Cossa, Owarska Cossa, Comashaska Cossa, Colloberinska Cossa, Cocktabow, Bussanska Lapaten, Kara Bussan; which last place is not far from Sheen Mare, which I have formerly mentioned. I cannot so exactly tell the Circumference of the Caspian, as of the Black Sea, having been only on the North and West side; but howsoever I shall from what I have seen and learned from Experienced persons, be enabled to approach very near unto the Truth. The Distance between Astracan and the Jaick, is 500 miles; from thence unto the Confines of Bochara 500 miles: From Jaxartes to Persia, and thence unto Gilan is, according unto my Information, 1100 miles. From Gilan unto Koisa 500 miles: From thence unto Astracan as much; in all, 3100 miles. But if any person should endeavour by Land to Travel round this Sea, or in a Voyage by Sea follow the Coast, he would make at least a Thousand miles more: for this Sea is full of great Gulfs, Bays, and broken ground; so that the Calculation I make, is upon a direct passage by Sea, suppose from Astracan to Gilan, from thence to the Oxus, from the Oxus to the great North-East Bay, into which the River Jem falls, which is full of Islands and broken Grounds, Shelves, Sand and Shallow Water; and from thence back to Astracan. Having presented your Lordship with a short but true Account of those Countries encompassing and lying between the two forementioned Mediterranean Seas, I shall no less briefly and faithfully declare by what Accidents I came unto this Knowledge: which cost me so dear, that I suppose the most inquisitive person would not purchase the gratification of his Curiosity at a far less Expense of time and trouble, than I have employed (though often against my will) in my Travels and Inquiries. I was born in Ireland, yet of English Extract: My Family Noble, but my Estate not corresponding with my Quality, being ambitious, and withal naturally inclined to fee Foreign Countries, I hoped to Raise my Fortune by my Sword. After I left Ireland, before I had been long in England, an opportunity presenting itself, I engaged in the Service of the King of Sweden, who had then Wars with the Muscovite; having given some Considerable proofs of my Courage, I was gradually raised unto a Considerable Command; but being engaged too far in a Body of the Enemies, I was unhappily taken Prisoner by the Russes, and carried Prisoner unto Plescow, then in their possession, having at the same time Arrears due unto me from the Swede above 5000 Dollars. The Swedes taking no care for my Enlargement, being willing, I suppose, to save so great a Sum of Money, as at my Return I should have challenged: after Three years close Imprisonment, I was proffered Liberty by the Muscovite, upon condition I would faithfully serve him against all his Enemies; whereunto assenting, I was sent unto Moscow, and there before the Chancellor sworn a Tolmack, and preferred unto a Command little inferior unto what I enjoyed before. And the Poles advancing towards Moscow with a great Army, fearing lest I should go over unto them, I was sent unto Astracan, where I remained 10 years, being continually Employed against the Tartars and Circassians. By which means I came to know Pettigor, Sneesnagor, Shadgore, Cabardye, and the Great and Little Nagoy, the Comukes, the Tartars of Cassan, the Kalmukes, Cassachy Horda, Caragans, Ungensh and Usbeg, Tartars. During which Wars, I conflicted with great difficulties and hardship; In making long Journeys, faring hardly: Nor was it a small labour to make floats in order unto our passing over the great Rivers I have mentioned, to say nothing of the Danger. Besides, we run great hazards in our Journeying over those waste wide howling Deserts, which on every side surrounded us; frequently wanting provisions, and sometimes Guides; so that had we failed never so little in our Conjectures, we had all perished. After Ten years hard Service, in my Return from Convoying Shollohofe Knez into Shercassen Land, I was taken Prisoner by the Tartars of the Little Nagoy, and by them carried unto Assowa upon the Mouth of the Tana or Don. There I was sold unto a Precopensian Tartar, who carried me along with him towards Crim: But upon the shallow Waters I very happily made my Escape. I had little Knowledge of the Country, but having formerly understood by our Cossacks at Astracan, that great Bodies of the same name, mortal Enemies unto the Tartars, dwelled upon the Nepper not far beyond Crim; by the help of the Sun and Stars, I journeyed due West many days without any disastrous Adventure, until I found them; who gave me a very kind reception: In this escape I traversed almost the whole Desert of Ingile and Ungule. Dorosensko who then Commanded all the Cossacks upon the Nepper, immediately made me a Poskofneke, from which time for the space of almost two years, I did accompany them in divers Expeditions, in which we visited most of those Countries which lie upon the Black Sea, to the no small vexation and loss of the Inhabitants. We kept a Correspondence with the Cossack's upon the Don, and frequently assisted each other. And being all Foot, and the Country exactly level, we traveled surrounded with Wagons (which they call a Tabor) for fear of the Tartars who often set upon us, but were as often repulsed, we being well accommodated with Fire-Arms and small Field-pieces, which the Tartars do exceedingly fear, and will not ordinarily attempt closely, unless they have greatly the Odds in Number. But at length it was my ill Fortune between the Nepper and the Don to be again taken by the Tartars, and by them carried into Crim, where I lived long in great misery, and was at length sold unto a Timariot Spahi living in Anadoule, (Anatolia, or Asia minor) with whom I lived 5 years, but in more easy servitude than among the Tartars. And to make my service less irksome, my Master bestowed on me a Wallachian Woman, whom I received for my Wife, though without the usual Solemnities of Marriage, which are practised among Christians: Understanding at length that a Lord Ambassador was resident at Constantinople in behalf of the King of Great Britain, and to manage the Affairs of the English Nation in Turkey, I prevailed with my Master, whose Favour I had gained to grant me my freedom, together with my Wives, if I should procure an hundred Dollars. Whereupon he dismissed me in the company of a Turk his Friend, who upon my humble supplication unto your Lordship receiving the forementioned Sum, did in the behalf of his Friend before the Cady make me free, and leave the Woman also at my Disposal. At the same time I very happily met with some Vallachian Gentlemen, who were sent on a Message from their Vayvod unto the Grand Signior, They gladly received my Woman, and took her along with them, promising upon their Return into their own Country, to Restore her unto her Parents. Now that I may fully satisfy your Lordship, that I had really visited all those Countries which I have mentioned I beseech your Lordship let your Interpreter try me in those Languages wherein he is skilled; and as for others wherewith he is not acquainted, I am ready to converse with any of those Nations whom I pretend to know. For although I have never conversed much with Books, yet my great Travels accompanied with a pretty good Memory, will sufficiently Qualify me to pass through the Countries I shall hereafter mention. To begin my Progress from Constantinople, I can pass over from Scutery, and thence by the help of my Turkish Language pass through all Anatolia; Thence leaving Armenia on my right hand, and having the Black Sea on the left, go through Georgia, Mingrellia, Abassa, and Shercassen Land with the same Tongue, and another, which with little variation is common unto them all. Thence into the Comukes Country, who are a sort of Tartars, and do agree with others of the same name in speech, as indeed most Tartar's do; only they who are Mahumetans, and converse much with the Turks, use divers Arabic and Turkish words whereunto the Heathen Tartars are strangers: From Comukes Land I can pass into Persia, but I am not so well acquainted with their Country and Language, as I have elsewhere acknowledged. Therefore to return unto Constantinople, I can proceed from thence unto Romella, or Romania, through Wallachy, Bealla Horda, Crim, the Great Desert I have so often mentioned of Ingell and Ungull, the Little Nagoy, so over the Volga unto Astracan; thence through the Great Nagoy, and leaving the Caspian on my Right hand into the Caragans' Country, and so through Boghar into Persia. I can also by my knowledge of the Languages peculiar unto the following Countries traverse all Ireland, England, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Leifland, Poland, Russia, Mordwa, Sheremessa, Cassan, Kalmukes Land, Cassachy Horda, Yurgench, and leaving China on the left hand through Bochara into Persia. And now, Sir, nothing remains, But that I make most humble and hearty acknowledgement of your great Generosity and Christian Charity, in delivering a Stranger out of a Captivity, wherein I had Otherwise continued without hope of seeing my Friends or Country. And were I as expert at my Pen, as I have heretofore been at managing a Sword, I would by Consigning my Travels to Writing, leave behind me a lasting Monument of your Fame: But being for want of Learning and by long Disuse of my Mother Tongue rendered unfit for such a Work, I shall wheresoever I come proclaim your Worthiness, and continually pray unto the Omnipotent GOD to return your Kindness into your Bosom a Thousand fold. And shall ever remain, during Life, Your Faithful Slave, Astracan. FINIS. Books sold by Moses Pitt, at the Angel in St. Paul 's Churchyard. Folio. THeses Theologicae variis Temporibus in Academia Sedanensi editae, & ad disputandum propositae. Authore Ludovico de Blanc verbi Divini Ministro & Theologiae professor. In qua exponitur sententia Doctorum Ecclesiae Romanae, & Protestantium. 1675. Price 20 s. Dr. Henry Hammond's Sermons. 1675. A Table of Ten thousand Square Numbers, by John Pell, D. D. stitched, 1 s. 6 d. Tuba Sentoro-Phonica, or the Speaking-Trumpet; being an Instrument of Excellent Use both at Sea and Land; by Sir Samuel Morland. Price of the Book 1 s. of the Instrument 2 l. 5 s. Articles and Rules for the Government of His Majesty's Forces by Land, during this present War, 1673. 1 s. 6 d. Bailii opus Hist. Chronol. vet. & Nou. Test. 1663. Becmanni Exercitationes Theol. Contra Socinianos'. 1643. An History of the Church, by Alex. Petrey. 1662., Catalogus Librorum in Regionibus Transmarinis nuper Editorum. The History of Don Quixote. 1675. 10 s. The Commentaries and Life of Julius Caesar, Containing his Wars in Gallia, and the Civil Wars betwixt him and Pompey; with the Notes of Clement edmond's. 1677. 16 s. Quarto. Thesaurus Numismatum Antiquorum cum Commentariis Jac. Oiselii. 1677. 20 s. Joannis Bonae (Cardinalis) Opera Theologica. 1677. 16 s. Georg. Hicks Sermon before the Lord Mayor, on 1 Cor. 10. 13. 1677. 6 d. Dr. Pell's Introduction to Algebra. 7 s. Nich. Mercatoris Logarithmo-Technia, sive methodus construendi Logarithmos, 1668. & Jac. Gregorii Exercitationes Geometricae, 1668. 2 s. Love only for Love sake, a Dramatic Romance, by Sir Richard Fanshaw. 3 s. 6 d. Mori Enchiridion Metaphysicum, 1671. 10 s. Snellii Typhis Batavus, Ludg. Bat. 1624. 5 s. Petrus Paaw de Ossibus, Amst. 1633. 5 s. Dr. Thomas Jacomb, on the Eighth Chapter of the Romans. 8 s. A Letter from a Gentleman of the Lord Howard's Retinue, to his Friend in London, dated at Fez. Nou. 1. 1670. 6 d. Dr. Wallis Opera Mechanica, 22 s. Hieronymi Mercurialis de Arte Gymnastica Libri sex cum figuris, 1672. Pignorii Mensa Isaica, 1669. Pharmacopeia Hagiensis, 1659. Augustana, 1672. J. Crellii Ethica Aristotelica & Christiana, 16 s. Joan. Binchii Mellificium Theologicum, 16 s. Theod. Kerkringii D. M. Spicilegium Anatomicum, Continens Observationum Anatomicarum rariorum centuriam unam nec non Osteogeniam foetuum in qua quid cuique ossiculo singulis accedat Mensibus, quidve decedat & in eo per varia immutetur tempora, accuratissimè oculis subjiciuntur, 1670. Fortunius Licetus de Monstris ex recensione Gerardi Blasii, qui Monstra quaedam Nova & Rariora ex recentiorum Scriptis addidit. Editio novissima Iconibus illustrata. 1665. Complete Clark, Containing the best Precedents, 1677. 12 s. Holy Fast of Lent defended, 1667. 6 d. A Looking-Glass for all New Converts, 1667. 1 s. There is newly published two Recantation-Sermons, (Preached at the French-Church in the Savoy) by two Converted Romanists, Mr. De la Motte, late Preacher of the Order of the Carmelites; and Mr. De Luzanzy, Licentiate in Divinity; wherein the Corrupt Doctrines of the Church of Rome are laid open and confuted. Both Printed in French and English. Also two other Sermons, one Preached before the King at White-Hall, Jan. 30. 1676. by Henry Bagshaw, D. D. the other before the Lord Mayor, Decemb. 19 1675. by John Cook. A Modest Survey of the most material things in a Discourse, called the Naked Truth, 6 d. A New Dictionary, French and English, by Guy Miege. 1677. Marshal Turenne's Funeral Sermon. 1677. Jer. Horrocii. Angl. Opusc. Astron. 1673. An Historical Vindication of the Church of England in Point of Schism, by Sir Ro. Twisden. The last Siege of Mastricht, Sept. 5. 1676. Dr. Tillotson s Sermon before the King, Apr. 18. 1675. Dr. Wilkins' Three Sermons before the King, March 7. 1669. and Feb. 7. 1670. Dr. Jo. Tillotson's Rule of Faith. 1676. Octavo. Rhetores saelecti, Demetrius Phalerius, Tiberius' Rhetor, Anonymus Sophista, Severus Alexandrinus Grecè et Lat. per Tho. Gale. Soc. Coll. M. 1676. A Scriptural Catechism, according to the Method observed by the Author of the Whole Duty of Man, 1676. How, of delighting in God; of the Blessedness of the Righteous, Two Vol. Art of Speaking, by M. du Port-Royal. 1676. A Discourse of Local Motion, undertaking to demonstrate the Laws of Motion, and withal to prove, that of the seven Rules delivered by Mr. Des Cartes on this Subject he hath mistaken Six: Englished out of French, 1671. 1 s. The History of the late Revolution of the Empire of the Great mogul, with a description of the Country, in two Volumes. 7 s. The History of the Conquest of the Empire of China by the Tartars, 1671. 4 s. Mystery of Iniquity unvailed in a Discourse, wherein is held forth the opposition of the Doctrine, Worship, and Practices of the Roman Church, to the Nature, Designs, and Characters of the Christian Faith, by Gilbert Burnet. 1 s. A Collection of Popish Miracles wrought by Popish Saints, both during their lives, and after their death; collected out of their own Authors, 1 s. Treatise of the Holy Communion, 1677. 2 s. 6 d. Theod. Turqueti, De Mayerne, De Arthritide, Accesserunt ejusdem Consilia aliquot Medicinalia, 1 s. A new way of curing the Gout, and Observations and Practices of relating to Women in Travel, 3 s. Elenchi Motuum Nuperorum in Anglia pars tertia, sive Motus Compositi. Ubi G. Monchii è Scotia progressus, nec non Aug. Caroli Secundi in Angliam Reditus; ejusdemque Regiae Majest. per Decennium gesta fideliter enarrantur, 1676. Gualteri Needham Disputatio Anatomica de Formato Foetu. 1677. 3 s. 6 d. Buxtorfius' Epitome of his Hebrew Grammar Englished, by John Davis, 1658. 1 s. 6 d. The Fortunate Fool, or the Life of Dr. Cenudo, a Spanish Romance, 1670. 2 s. The Adventures of Mr. T. S. an English Merchant, taken Prisoner by the Turks of Algiers, with a description of that Kingdom, and the Towns and Places thereabouts, 1670. 1 s. 6 d. Contemplations on Mortality, 1670. 1 s. A Discourse written to a Learned Friar, by Mr. Des Fourneillis, showing that the Systeme of Mr. Des Cartes, and particularly his Opinion concerning Brutes, does contain nothing dangerous; and that all he hath written of both, seems to have been taken out of the First Chapter of Genesis: To which is annexed the Systeme General of the Cartesian Philosophy, 1 s. The Relation of a Voyage into Mauritania in afric, by Roland Frejus of Marseilles, by the French King's Order, 1666, to Muley Arxid King of Taffaletta, etc. with a Letter in Answer to divers Questions concerning their Religion, Manners, etc. 1671. 1 s. 6 d. A Genuine Explication of the Visions in the Book of Revelation, by A. B. Peganius. 1671. 2 s. Prodromus to a Dissertation concerning Solids naturally contained within Solids, laying a foundation for the rendering a rational account, both of the Frame and the several Changes of the Mass of the Earth, as also the various Productions of the same. By Nich. Steno, 1671. 1 s. 3 d. Basileus Valentinus, of Natural and Supernatural things, also of the first Tincture, Root, and Spirits of Metals and Minerals, how the same are Conceived, Generated, Brought forth, Changed and Augmented: Whereunto is added Friar Bacon of the Medicine or Tincture of Antimony, Mr. John Isaac Holland his Works of Saturn, and Alexander Van Suchten, of the Secrets of Antimony, out of Dutch, 1671. 2 s. The Poetical Histories, being a complete Collection of all the Stories necessary for a perfect understanding of the Greek and Latin Poets, and other Ancient Authors, written Originally in French, by the Learned Jesuit P. Galtruchius. Now Englished and Enriched with Observations concerning the Gods worshipped by our Ancestors in this Island, by the Phoenecians and Syrians in Asia; with many useful Notes and occasional Proverbs, gathered out of the best Authors: Unto which are added two Treatises; One of the Curiosities of Old Rome, and of the difficult Names relating the Affairs of that City; The other containing the most remarkable Hieroglyphics of Egypt. The Third Edition, with Additions. By Marius D' Assigny, B. D. 3 s. 6 d. An Essay about the Origine and Virtues of Gems, by the Honourable Robert boil. 1 s. 6 d. Idem Lat. twelves, 1 s. Sir Samuel Morland's Arithmetic, with several useful Tables, and a Perpetual Almanac, 1673. 3 s. A Complete Treatise of Chirurgery, containing Barbetts Chirurgery. Mindererus of Diseases Incident to Camps and Fleets: With a Surgeon's Chest of Medicines and Instruments, etc. 6 s. Dr. Lower de cord. Amster. 1671. 3 s. Dr. Grews Anatomy of Vegetables, 1672. 2 s. Crowei Elenchi Script. in Scripturam. 3 s. 6 d. Eugelenus de Scorbuto. Fred. Deckeri Exercitationes Medicae. Grotii via ad Pacem. Alb. Gentilis de Armis Romanis. De Imperio. De Legationibus. De Nuptiis. Hammond de Confirmatione. Hugenii momenta Desultoria. Paraei Chronologia Sacra. Thruston de Respiratione. Mr. Boil of Hidden Qualities of the Air against Hobbs, and of Attraction by Suction, 2 s. 6 d. Mr. Boil of Effluviums of fire and flame, and of the previousness of Glass. 3 s. Memoires of Mr. Des-Ecotais, formerly styled in the Church of Rome, The most Venerable Father Cassianus of Paris, Priest and Preacher of the Order of the Capucins; or the Motives of his Conversion. In English 2 s. In French 2 s. In French and English 4 s. All Printed 1677. Dr. Edward Stillingfleet, and Mr. Burnet Conference, about Religion, at London, Apr. 3d. 1676. with some Gentlemen of the Church of Rome. As also a Letter to a Deist in Answer to several Objections against the Truth and Authority of Scripture. 1677. Les Memoires De Madame la Princess Marie Mancini Colonne G. Connetable du Royaume de Naples. 1677. La vie et les Actions Memorables de Lieut. Amiral Michael de Ruyter, 1677. 5 s. Duodecimo. Compendium Biblicum continens, Ex 23202. versiculis totius veteris Testamenti, Tantum versiculos 2289. (non tamen integros) in quibus omnes universi veteris E. voces, tam primitivae quam derivativae, tam Hebraicae quam Chaldaicae Authore Jo. Leusden, 1673. 4 s. A Paradise of Delights, or an Elixir of Comforts offered to Believers, in two Discourses, the first on Heb. 6. 17, 18. the second on Rom. 8. 32. By Robert Wine. 1 s. Grotii Sophompaneas. Gronovius in Livium. Primrose Ars Pharmaceutica. Scbook de Pace. Suetonius. Swalve Alcali. Severini Synopsis Chyrurgiae. Terentii Flores. Trelcatii loci Communes. Balduinus de Calceo & Nigronius de Caliga Veterum. Accesserunt ex Q. Sept. Fl. Tertulliani, Cl. Salmasii & Alb. Rubenii Scriptis plurima ejusdem Argumenti, 1667. Pauli Barbetti opera Chirurgica Anatomica, 1672. Praxis Barbettiana Cum notis Fred. Deckeri, 1669. Ottonis Tachenii Hypocrates Chymicus, 1671. Theodori Kerckringii D. M. Commentarius in Currum Triumphalem Antimonii Basilii Valentini à se latinitate donatum, 1671. Jo. Pincieri M. D. Aenignatum Libri Tres cum solutionibus, 1655. Francisci Redi Experimenta circa res diversos naturales, speciatim illas quae ex Indiis adferuntur, 1675. Aulus Gellius. Besterfeldus Redivivus. Herls Wisdoms Tripos. Wilkins Beauty of Providence. FINIS.