JOHN tailors wandering, to see the wonders of the West. How he traveled near 600. Miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyond the Mount, to the Lands end, and home again. Dedicated to all his loving Friends, and free minded Benefactors. In these dangerous days for Rich men, and miserable times for the poor Servants of the late King, (whereof I was one, 45. years to his royal Father and Himself) I thought it needful to take some course to make use of some friends, and devise a painful way for my subsistence; which was the Journey I have past, and this book here present; for which purpose I gave out many of these following Bills, to which near 3●00. Gentlemen and others, have kindly subscribed, to give me a reasonable reward. Printed in the year 1649. Tailor's Western Voyage to the Mount. 'tIs a mad world (my masters) and in sadness I travailed madly in these days of madness: Eight years a frenzy did this Land molest, The ninth year seemed to be much like the rest, Myself (with age, grief, wrongs, and wants oppressed, With troubles more than patience could digest) Amongst those Isles, I chose the least and best, Which was to take this journey to the West: And sure it is an Argument most fit, That he who hath a portion of small wit As I have, and good store of friends, 'twere sloth And foolery, not to make use of both. My wit was worn thread bare, half naked, poor. And I, with it, went wool-gath'ring for more. This long walk (first and last) I undertook On purpose to get money by my book: My friends (I know) will pay me for my pain. And I will never trouble them again. Six hundred miles, I (very near) have footed, And all that time was neither should or booted; But in light buskins I performed this Travelis O'er hill and dale, through dust dirt, flint, and gravel. And now no more words I in vain will scatter, But come unto the marrow of the matter. My Reader must not her suppose that I Will write a treatise of Geography: Or that I mean to make ex●ct Relations Of Cities, towns, or country's situations; Such men as those I turn them o'er to read The learned Cambden, or the painful Speed. And now (good Reader) I my muse do tune, I London left, the twenty one of June: To Brainford, Colebrook, Maidenhead and Henly, I passed (the weather fair, the high ways cleanly) To Abington. where four days I remained, By friends and kinsfolks kindly entertained: Thanks to my Nephew John, with all the rest, To whom that time I was a costly Guest. AND now me thinks a little proof may be relished amongst friends; I left Abington on Wednesday the 27. of June, and (for the case of my purse) I gave 2s. 6d. for the hire of the skeleton or Anatomy of a Beast to carry me ten miles to Farington; the thing I was mounted on was neither Horse, Mine, or Gelding, it was all spirit, with very little (or no flesh.) It was none of your pursy foggy Jades, and amongst Horsemen it might have past for a Light Horse, too much work, and too little meat, made him as gaunt as a Greyhound: Thus (mounted like Don Quixot) I entered Farington, but worse Guests than I had been there since these troubles; for the King's Party burned one part of the town, and the Parliaments fired the rest, so that between them there was a good handsome Market town turned into Ashes and rubbish: It begins to bud and spring out again, for here and there a pretty house peeps up: so that it will in short time be rebuilt, and phoenix like (out of its own cinders) be revived and reneved to a more pleasing and beautiful prospect. From Farington I footed it four miles to Hiworth, (a Market town) and from thence to Purton seven miles more, where I lodged, there was nothing remarkable in all that days travels; but that in the morning a Church at a Village called Kingston, (five miles from Abington having no steeple; but the Church at Purton (where I lay all night) had two steeples: but I was certified that the Minister that had two steeples, had but one Benefice, and he that had none, had two, by which means the reckoning was even betwixt them, for what the one had, the other had not. The 28. of June, I betook me to my feet an house and half before the sun could show his face in Somersetshire, and for one shilling I hired an old drunkard to guide me eight long miles to the town of Malmsbury, where all worthy remembrance was, that I found an Ancient town, an old Castle, and new Ale; from thence I hired a Horse for 25. seven miles, and footed it seven miles more that day to the famous, renowned, ancient, little pretty City of bath, I lodged in the mayor's house: But his Worship was as ignorant as myself, for he being a Baker, had let half his house to a Victualler: so he sold bread without, and I bought drink within: The next day I had notice where I was, wherefore I went to his stall or shop window, and told him what I was, and that I was he who came nine years ago from London, to that City with a small sculler's boat; Mr. Mayor was pleased to entertain me most kindly (with both his hands in his pocket) and like a man of few words, forbore to say welcome to town; so we parting dryly I left him in his shop, Lord Baron of the brown Loaves, and Master of the Rolls (in that place:) but there is no doubt but the man may live a fair age, and die in his bed, if be escape the unfortunate destiny of Pharaoh's Baker. Friday 29. of June, I had the luck twice to have not one dry thread about me, (being wet to the very skin) and yet my clothes were as dry as a bone: the reason is, that I was in the bath, and my clothes out. June 30. I traveled fifteen miles to the town of Wells, where I stayed but little, and found as little matter of observation, but that these holy, profane days, and blessed execrable Times of troublesome tranquillity, have spoiled and defaced one of the goodliest and magnificent cathedral Churches in the Christian world: But such pious works as pollution and abusing of Churches, we need not go amongst Turks for proofs; for though Peter's at Westminster hath scaped reasonable cleanly, yet Paul's in London hath lain out of order, in ord●●e a battenning. The same day I went four miles further to the ancient town of Glastonbury, there I saw the ruins of an abbey, which was one of the statelyest and most sumptuous structures in England or Europe: there ●●●●aines yet the ruined walls of a chapel built in memory of Joseph of Arimathea (who as it is recorded by authentic Historians) did first convert this Land from paganism to Christianity: And we have great need of another good Joseph to come amongst us, to do as much for us now. But there is no memorial of any place where that good old man was buried: the abbey was walled more than a mile about, with a wall of freestone, as fair as London wall; it is very probable that King Arthur (our English Worthy) was there sepulchred: for there I saw some stones of Marble, of which I placed the broken pieces together; I read these words in Latin, Hic jacet Guineverus Regins, Vxores, &c. Queen Guinever was Wife to the great Arthur, and she being buried there, it is to be conjectured that his bones were not laid far from her. Mr. Camden, doth quote the Ancient Historian, William of Malmsbury, to write these words following concerning Glastenbury. That it was the first Land of God in England, the first Land of Saints in England, the beginning and fountain of all Religion in England, the tomb of Saints, the Mother of Saints, the Church founded and built by the Lord's Disciples. I saw a branch or slip of the Hawthorne Tree that did bear. Blossoms every year (when all other Trees were frost-bitten, and seemed dead:) this Tree only, on Christmas day, the day of our blessed saviour's Birth; this Tree did (in its kind) snew its joy in commemoration of the Nativity of the Redeemer of unkind mankind: There are all the Inhabitants in the town will verify it, and thousands in England and other Countries will affirm that it is no Fable: The soldiers being over zealous did cut it down in pure devotion; but a Vintner dwelling in the town did save a great ship or branch of it, and placed or set it in his Garden, and he with others did tell me that the same doth likewise Bloome on the 25. day of December, yearly; I saw the said branch, and it was ten foot high, green, and flourishing; I did take a dead sprig from it, wherewith I made two or three Tobacco stoppers, which I brought to London; my humble thanks to Mr. Brooke, with (his good Sister) for they entertained me freely; so that the town of Glastonbury was not one penny the richer for any expenses of mine. Monday the second of July, I went to Bridgewater ten miles, where all that was worthy of note was, that near the town, at a stile I had a great disaster; for a shag or splinter of the stile took hold of my one and only breeches, and tore them in that extreme unmerciful, unmannerly manner, that for shame and modesty's sake I was fain to put them off, and go breechlesse into the town, where I found a botching threepenny tailor, who did patch me up with such reparations as made me not ashamed to put my breeches on again, and trot five miles further to a ragged Market town called Neather-St●y, where extreme weary, I took up my lodging, at a sign and no sign, which formerly was the Rose and crown; but Roses are withered, and crowns are obscured, as the sign was. Surely that day was a mad, sad, glad, auspicious, unlucky day to me, worse than an Ominous, Childermas, or a dogged biting dog-day; for the hostess was out of town, mine Host was very sufficiently drunk, the house most delicately decked with exquisite artificial, and natural sluttery, the room be sprinkled and strewed with the excrements of Pigs and Children; the wall and sielings were adorned and hanged with rare spider's tapestry, or cobweb lawn; the smoke was so palpable and perspicuous, that I could scarce see any thing else, and yet I could scarce see that, it so blinded me with Rheum a sign of weeping; besides all this, the odorifferous and contagious perfume of that house was able to outvie all the Millainers in Christendom or Somersetshire. I being thus embellished, or encompassed with these most unmatchable varieties; but to comfort me completely, mine Host swinged off half a pot to me, bade me be merry, and asked me if I would have any powdered beef and carrots to supper; I told him yes, with all my heart; but I being weary of the house, I went and sat three hours in the street, where mine Host often did visit me with most delightful and hydropical nonsense; at last, 7 of the clock was struck, and I went into the house to see if supper were ready; but I found small comfort there, for the fire was out, no beef to be boiled, mine Host fast asleep, the Maid attending the hogs, and my hungry self half starved with expectation; I awaked mine Host, and asked him where the beef was, he told me that he had none, and desired me to be contented with eggs fried with parsley; I prayed him to show me my chamber, which he did; the chamber was suitable to the rest of the house; there I stayed till near 9 a clock, expecting fried eggs, when mine Host came to me with an empty answer, there were no eggs to be had, so at the last I purchased a piece of bread and butter, and to bed, and then began my further torments; for thinking to take a little rest, I was furiously assualted by an Ethiopian Army of Fleas, and do verily believe that I laid so manfully about me that I made more than 500 mortuus est: they were so well grown that as I took 'em I gave 'em no quarter, but rubed 'em between my finger and my thumb, and they were so plump & mellow, that they would squash to pieces like young boiled pease: But all these troubles I patiently past by, making no more account of them, then of so many fleabitings. For my further delight, my chamber-pot seemed to be lined within with crimson plush, or shaged scarlet bays, it had scaped a scouring time out of mind, it was fured with antiquity, and withal it had a monumental savour; and this pisspot was another of my best contentments. At last, weariness and watching, began to enforce sleep upon me, so that (in spite of the fleas teeth) I began to wink, when suddenly, three children began to cry, and for an hours space I was kept waking, which made me fall to the slaughter again. The children being hushed asleep, the game began afresh amongst the dogs, for the cry was up, and the bawling curs took the word one from the other, all the town over; and the dogs had no sooner done, but the day break appeared, and the hogs began to cry cut for their breakfast: so I arose, and traveled (almost sleeping) 10. miles that day; which was to a town called Dunstar, where upon a lofty hill stands a strong Castle, it had then a Garrison in it; I'must confess I was free there, From nasty rooms, that never fells brooms, From excrements, and all bad scents, From children's bawling, and caterwauling, From grunting of hogs, and barking of dogs, And from biting of Fleas, there I found ease. The fourth of July, I traveled to Exfourd (so named) because it stands near the head, or spring of the River Ex, which runs down from North to South near 40 miles to the City of Exeter, and to Exmouth, where it delivers itself into the Ocean, and from thence to Brayfourd, (another Fourd which runs into the River of Ex, as the people told me; but I find it not so in the Map,) that day's journey was sixteen miles, a tedious weary way for a crazy, old, lame, bad, foundered footman, I am sure I found it so; for when I came to my lodging I had more mind to eat then to fight, and a better stomach to a bed then a supper. The fifth of July, I walked but seven mi'es to Barnstable, a very fine sweet town, so clean and neat, that in the worse of weather, a man may walk the streets, and never foul shoe or boot; there I stayed till the next day noon, being well and wellcomely entertained by one Mr. John Downes, who gave me fiddlers fare, meat, drink and money, for which I heartily thanked him: From thence I passed by water five miles to Aplear. July the sixt (being Friday) I paced it ten miles to a place named Ferry cross, in the Parish of Allington, and the seven day I turned my back upon Devonshire, having gone that day fifteen miles to the first Market town in Cornwall (on the North-side of the County) named Stratten. Cornwall is the Cornucopia, the complete and replete horn of Abundance for high churlish Hills, and affable courteous people; they are loving to requite a kindness, placable to remit a wrong, and hardy to resort injuries; the country hath its share of huge stones, mighty Rocks, noble, free, Gentlemen, bountiful housekeepers, strong, and stout men, handsome, beautiful women, and (for any that I know) there is not one Cornish Cuckold to be found in the whole County: In brief they are in most plentiful manner happy in the abundance of right and left hand blessings. It is a wonder that such rugged Mountains do produce such fertility of Corn, and Cattle; for if the happy days and times of peace were once settled. Cornwall might compare with any County in England, for quantity of all necessaries needful, and quality of persons. The ninth of July I left Stratten and ambled twenty miles to the town of Camelfourd, and to a Village called Blistland, and there I was taken for the man I was not; for they suspected me to be a bringer of Writs and process to serve upon some Gentlemen, and to bring men into trouble: But with much ado I scaped a beating, by beating into their beliefs that I was was no such creature. July the tenth, I came to Bodman, (a Market Town) and from thence the same day to a Village called St. Enedor, a part of which Parish is called Penhall, there at a smith's house was good lodging, better cheer, and best drink; the Smith was lame, his Wife was fair and handsome, where if I could have acted the part of Mars, there might have been played the Comedy of Vulean and Venus: that day's travel was eighteen miles. July eleaventh, I progressed to Trure, another Market town, which is the Lord Roberts his Land; there I bought a fish called a Breame for three pence, it would have served four men; after dinner I went eight miles further to a town called Redruith, in all that days travels eighteen miles, I saw nothing strange to me but a few Cornish daws (or Choughs) with red bills, and legs: They saluted me upon the wing, just in the language of our Jack daws about London, Ka, Ka. The twelfth of July, I came within two miles of Saint Michael's Mount, to an ancient house called by the name of Trimineague: it hath been, and is the birth place of Worthy Families, of the Noble name of the Godolphins: The right owner and possessor of it now is Francis Godolphin, Esquire, a Gentleman endowed with Piety, Humanity, Affability and Ability; he hath a heart charitable, a mind bountiful, and a hand liberal; he hath (deservedly) the cordial love of all the County, and would have the enjoyments of earthly contentments, if once these discontented times were quieted: seven days I stayed with him, in which time he was pleased to send a Kinsman of his (M. Anthony Godolpheny) with me to see the Mount, which I thus describe. It is about a mile in compass at the foot, and it rises 700 pieces very steep to the top, it is in form like a great haycock or reek, or much like a Mounteere; on the top or Piram●s of it, is a fine Church called Saint Michael's, the said Church is now for no other use but a well stored Magazine with Ammunition, from whence (for a relic of remembrance) I brought half a yard of Saint Michael's Mounts monumental Match: I went to the top of the Church Tower seventy steps higher, and in my coming down I viewed the Bells (which were five in number) being fair and handsome, they cannot be rung, because the crack rope soldiers have broke all the Bell-ropes, insomuch as for any more ringing there, the Bells being ropelesse, the people are hopeless. To speak the truth of this so much talked of Famous Mount; it is lofty, rocky, innaccessible, impregnable not to be taken, or kept, nor worth the taking or keeping: It is a barren stony little wen or wait, that with men, ammunition, and victuals is able to defend itself; but if it hath not the Sea and Land to friend, there is an Enemy called hunger (or famine) that will conquer Mounts and mountains: It can do no service to the seaward, for the water is so shallow, that no ship can sail within shot of it, and for Land service the town of Market Jew, stands better for defence: The Mount is an Island, and no Island, twice in every 24 hours: for when the Sea is up, boats must be used to go to it, but upon the ebb, Troopers may ride to it forty in Ranck: Market Jew is about two flight shoot of it, the Mayor whereof (one Mr. William Mabb) caused me to dine with him, for which I return him a few printed thanks. In the Mount I saw a craggy rugged seat, of Rocky Upholstery, which the old fabulous rumour calls St. Michael's chair: and a Well I saw there, which twice in 24 hours is fresh water, and salt water: This Mount had a Garrison within it, which made the Country people to grumble without it; yet the soldiers are pretty civil: and one captain Geary did courteously regard and drink with me at the mayor's house at Market Jew. From thence I returned to Mr. Godolphins, and he did persuade me to see the Lands end, fourteen miles further; for which journey on the 16. day of July, he did lend me 2. horses, with his kinsman to ride with me, where (for his sake) I was welcome by the way, with a good dinner, at one Mr. Levales house, from whence I rode, and went as far as I could ride, go, or creep, for rocks and sea: and there I saw the Island of Silly, with other smaller Islands, which are said to be 16. or 17. in number. The main Island is held for the Prince, by one captain (or as some say, a Knight) called Sir John Greenvill; it is very strong, with a good safe harbour, and as it is reported there, hath a good fleet of ships in it: some do call it a second Argiere, for there cannot a ship or vessel pass by it, but they do make out upon them, whereby they have great riches, with all necessaries: it was 8. leagues at least from me, insomuch that I could but only see it dimly, and 2. ships I perceyved that lay at road (perdue) to give notice (as I conjectured) of the appearance of any shipping that sailed within their ken: I did cut my name 4. inches deep in a small patch of earth amongst the rocks, at the land's end, and I am sure no man can go thither and set his name or foot, half a foot before me. The same day I returned to one Mr. Jones his house a mile thence, in the farthest Western Parish of the County of Cornwall, called Sevin; there I had good entertainment all night, by the gentleman's and his Wives free welcome, which was out of their own courteous disposition; but chiefly for Mr. godolphins' sake, to whom at Trimiweagow I returned, on the 17. of July, where I rested one day: and on the 18. day I took my leave, having received 7. days' hospitality in plenty, with many other courtesies in money and other necessaries which I wanted; besides he sent his kinsman with me to direct me the way to another Francis Godolphin of Godolphin house. That Gentleman is the chief of that noble name; his house a stately ancient palace, and my cheer and welcome at dinner, most freely bountiful. After dinner he walked with me, where (in my way) I saw his Mines of Tin, and a house where his workmen were refining and melting of Tin, which is a rich commodity. So at my taking leave of him, he put ten shillings in my hand, which came to me in an acceptable time. From thence I joged 3. miles further, to a house called Clowance in the Parish of Crowen, where dwells one Mr. John Sentabin, he is son in Law to the first Godolphin I came to, whose daughter he married (a virtuous and beautiful Gentlewoman) where I took a welcome, a supper and a bed, till the next morning, being July 19 he sent a man with me eight Miles to a sister of his, named Mrs. Gertrude, to her I was so welcome, that after I thought she had been weary of me, she would fain have had me to stay two days more, which I (with thanks refusing) she lent me a Mare (and a man to bring her home again) which Mare I road to a town called Penny come quick, within a mile of Pendennis Castle, which Castle I looked on a far off, but I durst not attempt to offer to go into it, for fears and jealousies might have mistaken me for a spy; for at all places of garrison, there is very strict examinations of persons, and at every town's end, in all the sea towns of part of Cornwall, Devonshire, Dorsetshire, and every Shine, no traveller could pass without catechising words: As what is your name, whence came you, where dwell you, whither go you, what is your business, and wherefore came you hither? Now he that cannot answer these particular demands punctually, is to be had before governors, captains, Commanders, Mayors, or Constables, where if a man do chance to be suffered to pass freely from them, yet it is a hazard of the loss of a traveller's liberty by either their unbelief or misp ision, and at the best it is a hindrance to a man's journey and loss of time. These considerations made me doubtful to presume to look into Pendennis Castle, or any other Garrison or place of defence: This Castle is seated very high, and it stands very defensive for the famous Haven of Faymouth, (one of the best Harbours for shipping in the world:) it was built by King Henry the eight, it is impregnable, and as long as it is well manned, amunitioned, and victualled, it is thought to be invincible, and there's an end of that point. That day I passed a Ferry called King Harry's Passage, (but why it is so named few men know) there I lodged at the Ferry man's house, and the next morning being 21 of July, I traveled twelve miles to a fisher town called Mevageasie; that town hath in it two taverns, and six alehouses, to every one of which I went for lodging, and not any one would harbour me, than I fought for a Constable to help me, but no Constable was to be found; the people all wondering at me, as if I had been some strange Beast, or Monster brought out of Africa; at which most incivill and barbarous useage, I began to be angry, and I perceiving that nobody cared for my anger, I discreetly went into the house where I first demanded lodging; where the hosts being very willing to give me the courteous entertainment of Jack Drum, commanded me very kindly to get me out of doors, for there was no room for me to lodge in. I told her that I would honestly pay for what I took, and that if I could not have a bed, yet I was sure of a house over my head, and that I would not out till the morning: with that a young saucy knave told me that if I would not go out, he would throw me out, at which words my choler grew high, my indignation hot, and my fury fiery, so that I arose from a bench, went to my youth, and dared to the combat; whereat the hostess (with fear and trembling) desired me to be quiet, and I should have a bed, at which words my wrath was appeared, and my ire assuaged. But straight ways another storm seemed to appear; for an ancient Gentleman came suddenly out of another room (who had heard all the former friendly passages,) and he told me that I should not lodge there, for though I had sought and not found a Constable, yet I should know that I had found a Justice of Peace before I sought him; and that he would see me safely lodged: I was somewhat amazed at his words, and answered him, Let him do his pleasure, for I submitted myself to his disposal. To which he replyde, That I should go but half a mile with him to his house, which I did, and there his good Wife and he did entertain me courteously, with such fare and lodging, as might have accommodated any Gentleman of more worth and better quality than one that had been ten times in degree before me: there I stayed the Saturday and all the Sunday, where I found more Protestant Religion in 2. days, than I had in 5. years before. The gentleman's name is Mr. John Carew, a Gentleman of noble and ancient descent, and a worthy justice of the Peace in those parts. I was certified, that in that little Town of Mevagesey, there are 44. Fisher Boats, which do fish for Pilchards, that every Boat hath 6. men, and that every 2. Boats have one net between them: they do call the 2. Boats a Seine; so there are 22. Seines, and 22. Nets: every Cornish bushel is in measure 2. Bushels and a half of our measure at London: every 2. Boats (or Seine) do spend 250. Bushels of Salt (Cornish measure) to salt Pilchards only; every Seine do use 100 Hogsheads to pickle the said Pilchards in yearly. So that this one little town, doth spend by God's blessing, and the means of those small fishes, every year, Of Salt, 22 times 350 Cornish bushels, which is in the number of our bushels, 14000,350. Of Hogsheads, or cask, 2200. Of men for 44 Boats, 6 men for each, 264. These men with their Families (being many in Number) are all maintained by Pilchard catching; but this is not all, for there are other greater ●ownes in the County, which do every one of them use the same trade of fishing, with more and greater numbers of men, boats, nets, cask, and much more quantity of salt; some of the other towns are S. Keverne, Foye, Lee, with others which I cannot recite. This infinite number of Pilchards, being salted and put up in cask, are bought a mane by the Spanish, French, Datch, Italian, and other Merchants, and by them they are either eaten or fold, and transported to many other people and Nations: And now I hope I have filled my Renders bellies with Pilchards, without cloying or offending their stomack●; if any one be queasy, or do feel a wambling in the Gizzard; let them call for a cup of S●ck, drink it, and pay for it. The 23 of July, I came to Foye, and to Loo or Low) twenty miles; this town of Loo, is divided in two parts, or two towns together, two Mayors, two Churches, two governors, and more than two Religions; all that I can say of either of the Looes, is, that there was soldiers and swordmen, strong beer and dagger Ale, Land flesh and Sea fish in plenty. On the 24. of July, I turned my back upon Cornwall, and went from Loo to Plymouth in Devonshire, twelve miles: At Plymouth I stayed not two hours, the town was too full of suspicions to hold me: There I saw Colonel William Leg, a prisoner in the Towerhouse, or Guild hall, I spoke to him (being on the ore side of the way in a window, and he on the other) in a low whispering voice that every one might hear what we said; I wished him health and liberty, and so left him in thraldom; There was two Stationers did make me very welcome for two or three hours; their names were Thomas Ratcliff and William weeks, they gave me smoke and drink in Plymouth, for which I require them in Paper and ink at London. That afternoon I left Plymouth, and went four miles further, to Plimpton, and on the morrow (being Saint James his day) I hired a horse forty miles to Exeter, where I was two days entertained at mine own cost, with some charges that Burgomasters and Bookesellers underwent: I can say little of Exeter, but that it is a fair sweet City, a goodly cathedral Church (not yet quite spoiled or stabled) and it had large Suburbs, with long streets, and many fine dwellings till this mad fire of contention turned all to ruins, rubbish, cinders, Ashes, and fume. Two hours before Phoebus appeared in our hemisphere, I was on footback from Exeter to Honiton, the 27. of July, there I had a night's lodging, and diet of such a homely fashion, as I have no occasion to boast of; there I hired a Horse (which proved to be a blind Mare) she had two wens as big as clusters of Grapes hung over both her eyes, and five or six wens on her shoulders and flanks, all which beautiful ornaments I could not perceive or see till I had rode the beast four mile, (for I was mounted before the break of day;) but when I saw the comeliness of the beast, between shame and anger I was almost mad at the Rogue that owned her; and being near to a Market town called Axmister, I dismounted, and footed eight miles to Broad Windsor in Dersetshire, where I was better horsed eight miles further to Evershot, and then I paced on foot eight miles further to the town of Sherbourne, that day's travel was 31 mile. The 31 of July, I went from Sherbourne to Shafisbury, and so to Wilton, and Salisbury, 31 mile: At Wilton I saw the Earl of Pembroke's Magnificent and Sumptuous Building and repairing of such a stately fabric, that for strength, beauty, form, state, glazing, painting, gilding, carving, polishing, embellishing and adorning: It may be a palace for the greatest King in Christendom: the Springs, and fishponds, the Garden, the walks, the rare artificial Rocks and fountains, the Ponds with fish on the house top, the strange figures and fashions of the water works, the numerous, innumerable varieties of fruits and flowers; yea all, and every thing that may make an earthly paradise, is there to be seen, felt, heard, or understood, (which because I understand not) I shut up all with this, there is inestimable cost, exquisite Art and Artists, most exceeding good work and workmen, only one thing (that is quite out of fashion almost everywhere) is used there, which is good and just payment. From Wilton, to Salisbury two miles, there I sleeped out the later end of the whole month of July. I had a desire to go into the Church there (one of the fairest in England) but now the plays be down, there was no sights to be seen without money, which though I could have paid, yet for two Reasons I would not; the one was because I had oftentimes seen that Church in former times, when God's Service was said there, and the second cause why I would not be guilty of Simony, and with corrupting Mammon enter or intrude into the House of God. The first of August, I footed to Andover, fifteen old miles, and eighteen new ones, (of the Posts late measuring:) The next day to Merrell Greene, 24 miles, the third day to Stanes, eighteen miles, and the fourth of August fifteen miles to London: My journey being in all 546 miles, which I went and came in six weeks, and lay still and rested twelve days in several places on week days, besides six Sundays: But all this was nothing to me, being a youth of threescore and ten, with a lame leg and a half, and there is an end of the story. Like to the stone of Sisyphus. I roll From place to place, through weather fair and foul, And yet I every day must wander still To vent my books, and gather friends good will; I must confess this work is frivalowse, And he that (for it) daigues to give a louse, Doth give as much for't as 'tis worth, I know; Yet merely merrily I this jaunt did go In imitation of a mighty King. Whose warlike acts, good fellows often sing, The King of France and twenty thousand men, Went up the Hill, and so came down again. So I this travel past, with cost and pain, And (as I wisely went) came home again. FINIS.