By the queen. ❧ A Proclamation with certain clauses of diuers Statues, & other necessary additions, first published in the xix. year of the queens majesties reign, and now revived by her highnes commandement to be put in execution, vpon the penalties in the same contained. WHereas the queens majesty hath by sundry former Proclamations notified unto her loving Subiectes of this realm, the great inconvenience and mischief that hath grown to the same, by the great excess of apparel in all states and degrees, but specially in the inferior sort, contrary to diuers laws and Statutes of the realm, whereof notwithstanding there hath followed no redress, or very little at al: whereby hath appeared no less contempt in the offenders, then lack of ductifull care in those to whom the authority to see due execution of the laws and orders provided in that behalf was committed, which thing might give her majesty just cause( were it not that of her own gracious disposition she is naturally inclined rather to clemency then severity, so long as there is any hope of redress otherways) to commit the execution of the said laws, to such persons as would haue proceeded therein with all extremity. Notwithstanding, her majesty meaning to make some further trial, before she haue recourse to extreme remedies, and finding vpon conference had with the lords and others of her privy counsel, for the redress of so gree●ous and pernicious a sore in this common wealth, the chief remedies for the same, to be example, and correction: Her majesty therfore for the first, which is example, thinketh it very meet and expedient, that the due execution in her majesties most honourable house, of such orders and articles as are annexed to this Proclamation, should serve for a pattern throughout the whole realm, and therefore her majesty hath already given, and by these presentes doth give special charge to all those that bear office within the said house, to see due observation of the same, which she trusteth will be duly observed. And further her majesty doth generally charge all noble men, of what estate or degree so ever they be, and all and every persons of her privy counsel, all Archbishoppes, and Bishops, and the rest of the clergy, and all other persons, according to their degrees, that they do respectively see the same speedily and duly executed in their private household and families: and likewise doth charge all Maiors and other head officers of Cities and towns corporate, the Chauncellours of both the universities, gouernours of colleges, readers, ancients & Benchers in every the inns of Court and chancery, and generally all that haue any superiority or government over and vpon any society or feloweship, and each man in his own household for their children and servants, that they likewise do cause the said orders to be straightly kept by all lawful means that they can. And for the second, which is correction, her majesty hath cause to think, that if there had been that seueritic used by those to whom the oversight of the due execution of the laws provided in that behalf was committed, as to them in duty appertained, both this sore had been cured, and this Proclamation not needful to haue been published at this present. For the better reformation whereof, her majesties will and pleasure is, and so doth straightly charge and command, not onely al Iustices of peace, and every of them, to make inquiry of the defaults and breaking of the said orders, at every their quarter Sessions, and also the Iustices of assize in ther cirtuites, and to see such examples made, and due punishments extended vpon the offenders, as by the Statutes of this realm, with such qualifications as in this present Proclamation are contained, is provided in that behalf: but also, that as well the said Iustices, as all Maiors, Shirifes, and other head officers, in Cities, towns, and boroughs, shall at any other time, cause all such persons as shall be found faulty, and transgressing against this proclamation, after the last day of march next ensuing, to be apprehended and brought before them, and finding them culpable, to commit them to prison, there to tempayne without bail or mayneprise by the space of one month, vniesse the said parties so found culpable, or charged as culpable, shal enter into bonde to appear before the Iustices at the next quarter Sessions of the peace, or of the assizes to be holden within the same shire, city, Borough, town Corporate, franchise, or liberty, and there to be answerable for al such offences as shal be proved that they haue committed contrary to the true intent and meaning of this Proclamation. And whereas it is appointed by the Statutes of this Bealme, what every person shall or may wear in their apparel, according to the several rates of their lyuings in lands or fees, over and above all charges, and in some cases, of goods, forasmuch as the lack of the true and common understanding of every mans estate and living, in sort before expressed, hath been( as it seemeth) heretofore some principal cause of the lack of the true execution of the said Statutes, and that it doth manifestly appear, that the same cause will also in time to come work the like effect, for that there is no convenient means to make the states of mens livings and valves, in such sort as is expressed in the several statutes, to be commonly known, to such persons as ought to haue special care of the execution of the laws and orders now prescribed. Her majesty, being desirous for the great benefit of al her highnesse Subiectes, to haue these orders more duly executed then they haue been, and finding that it is very hard for any mans state of living and value, to be truly understood by other persons, if before proof made they should seem to take knowledge of any other valves and rates, then of such as be, or ought to be, for the greatest nember expressed in the subsidy book, and so for lack of the knowledge of the true rates & valves mentioned in the said statutes, the due execution of these orders may be defrauded: doth therfore, for the avoiding of the inconvenience that may ensue, order and command, that all persons, that by this Proclamation be appointed to haue care of the execution of these orders, shall for the first calling, arresting committing, or any other pursuing of any person, for any offence committed against these orders, take knowledge of the rates and valves, whereby such persons are sessed in the subsidy books, and shall accordingly proceed vpon such knowledge of their valves, to impeach such as will in their apparel offend to the contrary thereof. nevertheless, if any person shall find himself grieved to be impeached therewith, and for the justifying of the wearing of his apparel, shall vpon any arrest or indite 〈…〉 t found against him, avow, and offer to prove his living to be such, and so great, as by the rates ex 〈…〉 d in the statutes he may be warranted to wear the apparel for the which he is or shall be impeached: 〈◇〉 majesties meaning and pleasure is, that every such person shalbe admitted to make such proof, and thereupon shall receive iudgement of condemnation, or acquittal, according to the rates expressed in the statutes, and not otherwise, without impeaching any officer, or other person, that did arrest, challenge, or pro●●d● against him for such matter, though in the subsidy book his valves were not sufficient to warrant 〈◇〉 valves mentioned in the acts of Parliament: Not doubting, but that all such persons, as for the maintenance of their fonde vanity in apparel, will seek to make their livings to be known and proved to be greater, then they were before in sessementes of Subsidies taken to be, whereof her majesty had the loss, 〈◇〉 thought meet by such Commissioners as hereafter shall haue auethoritie to rate men vpon the grant 〈◇〉 v subsidy, to be sessed in the subsidy books, according to such valves as themselves will avow to haue for defence of wearing of such kind of apparel, and also will be content to be answerable to the charge of other necessary services for the realm, as causes shall require. And because there are many persons, that percase shal be found in outward apparance more sumptuous 〈◇〉 their apparel, then by common preferrment the valves of their possessions or goods may warrant, & yet they are not assessed in any subsidy book, partly for that they are dwelling in such places of the realm, as are not chargeable to payments of Subsidies, or that percase they haue escaped to be assessed, or otherwise not assessed, whereupon such persons may think to continue their disorder, without reformation by the maner here next before prescribed: Her majesty, for remedy hereof, commandeth al maner of officers, that where they shall see any such persons in outward apparance so offending, and not having knowledge of their valves by books of Subsidies, as afore is expressed, that nevertheless they shall stay such persons, and challenge them for such pretended offence, and detain them, as before by this Proclamation is limited, until they shall enter into bond, to make good proof that they can dispend so much in land and fees, or be so much worth in goods, as by the laws they be thereby warranted to wear such apparel: And that no public officer shalbe at any time impeached for such stay, and deteynor of any such person so apparently seeming to haue offended. provided always notwithstanding, that the said public officer shall not at any time, under the colour of the execution of this present Proclamation, arrest any person or persons, whom either they themselves shalbe known and proved to malice, or else shal be procured thereto by others, in respect of some particular quarrel, vpon pain of her majesties displeasure, and such punishment as shall be thought meet by the lords and others of her majesties privy counsel. given at out Palace of Westminster, the xii. of february, in the xxii. year of our reign. God save the queen. ¶ A brief content of certain clauses of the Statutes of King henry the eight, and queen mary, with some moderation thereof, and other provisions to be observed, according to her majesties Proclamation above mentioned. ❧ Mens apparel. N●ne shal wea●e ●n 〈…〉 silk of the colour Purple, cloth of gold, or silver Tissued, nor fur of Sables. under the degree of an earl. Cloth of gold, silver, or tinsel satin. silk, Cloth, canvas, or any stuff in any apparel, that shalbe mixed or embroidered with any Gold or silver. under the degree of a Baron. Woollen cloth made out of the realm, saving in caps only. velvet Crymson, Carnation, or Blewe. Scarlet cloth. furs of black jenets, or Lusernes. embroidery, or tailors work, having gold, or silver, or pearl therein. Nor any Enamiell, musk, Ambergrece, Agate, or any other precious ston, in chain, Button, or Aglet. Nor any doublet, jerkin, or other apparel of any stuff perfumed. under the degree of A Knight of the order, one of the privy Counsel, or a Gentleman of the privy Chamber. gowns, cloaks, Capes, or other uppermost garments of velvet. furs of Libardes. embroidery, or tailors work like to embroidery, with silk, Bugle, or any other like thing. Nor any caps, Hats, Hatbandes, Capbands, Garters, Bootehose, trimmed with gold or silver. Or silk neather stocks. Shertes, Shertbandes garnished, mixed, or wrought with gold. Russes made or wrought out of england, commonly called Cutworke. under the degree of A Barons son, a Knight, & Gentleman in ordinary office, attending vpon her majesties person, or persons that are assessed in the last subsidy books at. CC. li. lands, or fees. None 〈…〉 e spurs, sword, Rapiers, Woodknyues, or Hangers. Buckles of Gyrdles. Damasked, under the degree of A Knight of the order. One of the privy counsel. A Gentleman of the privy chamber. Guylte, under the degree of a Knight. Syluered, under the degrees and persons before mentioned. N 〈…〉 al we●re In trappings, or harness for any their Horses. studs, Buckles, or other garniture, being guilt, silvered, or Damasked. Nor stirrups Guylte, silvered, or Damasked, Nor any velvet in Saddles, or Horse trappings. except The degrees before mentioned, & al other Gentlemen onely in the furniture of their great Horses meet for service. N 〈…〉 velvet in any kind of hose, or in guarding of any garment, or in Slippers, shoes, or Pantophles. gown or Hose of satin, damask, silk Chamlet, Taffata, or tuffed Taffata, or Hose made of silk Lace. fur, whereof the like kind groweth not within the queens Dommions, except foins, gray jenets, Calaber, Budge, outlandish Hare, or fox. except Men that be of the degree, & persons above mentioned, and men that may dispend one hundred Marks in lands or fees by the year, & so valued in the subsidy books, or valued at five hundred pounds in goods, or such person as shall continually keep a great Horse, furnished for service in war. any Bonnet, hat, Girdle, or Scaberdes of sword, or Rapiers of velvet. any satin, damask, Taffata, or Chamlet, in Iackettes, coats, Ierkyns, doublets, or any silk of any kind, in lynynges of Hose. any fur of foins, graye jenettes, or other, whereof the kind groweth not within the queens Dominions. except The persons & degrees above mentioned, the son of a Knight, or of any man the may dispend three hundred marks, & the eldest son of hun that may disped one hundred pounds by the year, & is so assessed, vt sup. And men that may dispend twenti pound land & fees by the year, vt sup. or valued at one hundred pounds in goods, or a Gentleman attending in ordinary office vpon any peer of the realm, or lord of the Parliament, or vpon the wyddow of any peer, or vpon a knight of the order, or vpon any of the privy counsel. N 〈…〉 at 〈…〉 e chancellor, Treasurer, President of the Counsel, privy seal, and other like great offices of the realm, may wear in their apparel, and vpon their Horses, Mules, and Geldinges, as they might haue done before by the provision of former Statutes of this realm. 〈…〉 t 〈…〉 Bishops, and other of the clergy, Iustices of either bench, Barons of the Exchequer, Master of the rolls, sergeants at Lawe, The queens learned counsel, and the queens physicians, and al other graduates in the two universities. Masters of the chancery, Apprentices of the Lawe, Maiors, Aldermen, Sheriffes, and al other head officers of Cities & towns corporate, & Wardens of occupations, during the continuance of their offices. Barons of the five ports. may wear in their apparel, and vpon their Mules, and Horses, as they haue done before by the provisions of former Statutes. Womens Apparel. 〈…〉 silk of the colour Purple. except such persons of great estate as are expressed in the Statute of 24. Hen. 8. Cloth of gold or silver tissue, Nor fur of Sables. under the degree of A countess. Cloth of gold, silver, Tynselled satin. silk, or Cloth, mixed or embroidered with gold, or silver, or pearl, saving silk mixed with gold or silver, in lining of cawls, Partlettes, or sleeves. under the degree of A Baronnesse. velvet Crimson, Carnation, Blewe. furs of black jenets, Lusernes. embroidery, wreth Lace, or Pacement Lace of Gold, or silver. except All degrees above mentioned. The wives of knights of the order, & of the privy counsel. The ladies and Gentlewomen of The privy Chamber, bed Chamber, and maids of Honor. gowns or cloaks of velvet, satin, or of tuffe Taffata. furs of Libardes. embroidery of any silk, nor tailors work, like to embroidery, nor cawls, sleeves, ruffs, Partlets or linings trimmed with pearl, Spangles, or purls of gold or silver. except The degrees & persons above mentioned. And wives of Barons sons, and also the daughters of Barons, and the wives of knights, or of persons that may dispend and be sessed at two hundred pound lands in the subsidy book. hats, caps, Hathandes, Capbandes, Garnished or embroidered with Gold or silver. White works, alias Cutwoorkes, made beyond the Seas. silk Hose. under the degrees and persons above mentioned. gowns, cloaks, or other vpper garments of damask, silk Brograine, or Taffata. Kirtles of velvet, or satin. furs, whereof the kind groweth not within the queens Dominions, except foins, gray jenettes, Budge, and wolf. cawls of Gold or silver, or cawls mixed with gold or silver. velvet in guards of gowns. except The degrees and persons above mentioned, or the wives of those that may dispend one hundred pound lands by the year, and so valued in the subsidy book, and daughters of any Knight, and such as be sworn the queens women, or the wives of those that shall keep continually one great Horse, with sufficient furniture for her majesties service in the warres. 〈…〉 gowns of Taffata, silk Grograine, Chamlet, Kirtles of satin, or damask, except The degrees & persons before mentioned, the wife of the son & heir apparent of him that may dispend one hundred pounds, vt supra, & the wives of those that may dispend one hundred marks by the year, vt supra. Gentlewomen ordinarilye attendant vpon Dutchesses, Marquesses, Countesses, May wear as the wives of those that may dispend one hundred pound by the year, and are valued vt supra. Gentlewomen ordinarilye attendant vpon Viscountes wives, Barons wines, the wives of knights of the order, & of the privy Connsell, May wear as the wives of those that may dispend one hundred marks, valued vt supra. And may also wear their livery gowns, guarded with velvet. 〈…〉 petticoats of velvet, nor any gold or silver vpon any Peticoate, under the degree of A Baronnesse. petticoats of silk, velvet, Taffata, satin, or any gold or silver in any cloak or safeguard, under the degree of A wife of a Knight of the Order, or of the privy counsel, or any Gentlewoman atteding on the queens majesty in her Chamber, or the maids of Honor. No person under the degrees above speciffed, shall wear any guard or welt of silk, vpon any cloak or safeguard. necessary additions. 1 In primis, that all officers of her majesties household, and other her servants in ordinary, not 〈…〉ed within the tates limited and set forth by the Proclamation, shall observe such orders for their apparel, as shal be from time to time set down in writing by the Lord chamberlain, the master of the Horse, and other her majesties principal officers of her household. 2 Item, if any person shal, in contempt & descauding of this Proclamation, devise any new kind or 〈◇〉 of apparel, and for garnishyng thereof, and thereby shal be at greater charge then appertay●●th to his degree and quality, and is here above mentioned and intended: Then the said person to ●●●teyne the like punishment for his contempt, as if the said garment or garnishyng had been especially prohibited. 3 Item, that it shalbe lawful for all Iustices of peace, and Sheriffes of Shires, to wear velvet or other silks in their coats or Casockes, at such times as they shall attend vpon the queens majesties person, or when they shall resort to places of assizes and Sessions, and other general assemblies in the queens service. 4 Item, that no person under the degree of a Baron, a Knight of the order, one of the privy Counsel, a gentleman of here majesties privy Chamber, or any other gentleman ordinarily attendant vpon her majesties person, shall wear any guards of velvet vpon any one garment, exceeding in the whole in velvet the breadth of six inches. 5 Item, that it shalbe lawful for the lords of the Parliament, to give for their lyueries, coats, or cloaks, guarded with velvet or any other silk, the guards in the whole not exceeding in breadth above four inches. 6 Item, that it shalbe lawful for the sons of those that may dispend. xl. l. by the year, being so ranted at the last subsidy, and for wards whose land is. xl. l. by the year, to wear sarsenet in the lining of their Hose, doublets, hats, or caps. 7 Item, that it shalbe lawful to wear in liveries, silk Buttons, and Taffats, Grograyne, velvet, or other silk in the facing of coats, as is commonly used. 8 Item, that all inferior persons, under the degrees above specified, not otherwise provided for, or limited by this Proclamation, shall confourme themselves in their apparel, in all things according to the Statute made & provided in anno. 24. Henrici. 8. and in anno. 1.2. Philippi & mary. Or else to sustain such punishment as by the said Statute is provided. 9 Item, that all Apprentices at the lawe, and utter barristers of the inns of Court, and al merchants of any society, and al that keep household in city or town, and such as may dispend. xx. l. by the year, may wear a welt of velvet in their gowns, jackets, or coats. That no person shalbe impeached for wearing of any cloth made within the realm, so long as he shal observe the order and rates by this present Proclamation limited. But if any person shall willingly betake the tenor and effect of this Proclamation, then her highnesse pleasure is, that every such offender shall haue the penalties of the laws extended against them to the uttermost, without any toleration or favour. ❧ A Commandement given by the queens most excellent majesty, the twelfth of february, and xxii. of her Highnesse reign, and declared by the Lord chancellor of england, and other the lords of her majesties most honourable priute Counsel in the star Chamber, concerning cloaks and ruffs of excessive length and depth. IT is also to be understood, that the said xii. day of february, in this present year 1579. by the queens majesties express commandment, it was declared and published by the lord chancellor, and other the Lords of her majesties council in the star Chamber, that her majesties pleasure was, by advice of her said council, that from the one & twentieth of this month, no person shal use or wear such excessive long cloaks, being in common sight monstrous, as now of late are begun to be used, and before two yeeres past hath not been used in this realm. neither also should any person use or wear such great and excessive ruffs in or about the uppermost part of their necks, as had not been used before two yeeres past, but that all persons, should in modest and comely sort leave off such fond disguised and monstrous maner of attiring themselves, as both was unsupportable for charges, and undecent to be worn. And this her majesty commanded to be observed, vpon pain of her high indignation, and the pains thereto due, and willed all officers to see to the reformation and redress thereof, to the punishment of any offending in these cases, as persons wilfully disobeying or contemning her majesties commandement. given the xxii. year of her Highnesse reign, as is before expressed. God save the queen. Imprinted at London by Christopher Barker, Printer to the queens most excellent majesty. Cum privilegio Regiae Maiestatis. Anno Dom. 1579. ¶ By the queen. ❧ A branch of a Proclamation published the twelfth day of february, in the eight year of the queens majesties reign, concerning sword, Daggers, Rapiers, and Bucklers: commanded by her highnesse to be put in execution, and of all her loving subiects to be obeied and kept, vpon pain of her majesties high indignation, and the penalty in the same contained. ❧ The branch or clause of the said Proclamation. ITem, her majesty ordereth and also commandeth, that no person shall wear any sword, Rapier, or such like weapon, that shall pass the length of one yard and half a quarter of the blade, at the uttermost: nor any Dagger above the length of xii. inches in blade at the most: nor any Buckler with any point or pike above two inches in length. And if any Cutler, or other Artificer, shall sell, make, or keep in his house any sword, Rapier, Dagger, Buckler, or such like, contrary thereunto, the same to be imprisoned, and to make fine at the queens majesties pleasure, and the weapon to be forfeited. And if any such person shall offend a second time, then the same to be banished from the place and town of his dwelling. given at our palace of Westminster, the twelfth day of february, in the two and twentieth year of our reigue. 1 God save the queen. Imprinted at London by Christopher Barker, Printer to the queens most excellent majesty. Anno Dom. 1579.