THE Ingenious and Diverting LETTERS OF THE Lady— TRAVELS INTO SPAIN.  
DESCRIBING The Devotions, Nunneries, Humours, Customs, Laws, Militia, Trade, Diet, and Recreations of that People.  
Intermixed with Great Variety of Modern Adventures, and Surprising Accidents: being the Truest and Best REMARKS Extant on that Court and Country.  
The Fourth Edition Corrected.  
In Three PARTS Complete.  
Licenced and Entered according to Order.  
LONDON, Printed for Samuel Crouch at the Corner of Pope's- Head-Alley, next Cornhill. 1697.   

To the much Honoured Mr. DAHE.  
SIR,  
FInding Encouragement for a new Edition of the Lady's Travels, as I had just Reason from your Merits before, to dedicate a part of them to you, so the Continuation of your particular Favours makes me take this Opportunity to acknowledge them, and now to Address the Whole. I found the former Editions to have good Success under your Name; so that both Profit and Gratitude oblige me again to beg you to take this Work of the Fair Sex into your further Protection and Patronage. Your Great Skill in that Excellent Art, which with so much Life and Pleasure represents the Ladies, besides your other extraordinary Qualifications, endears you to them, and I hope will influence them to help me off with this Impression. They will certainly for the Honour of their Sex, contribute to let this Incomparable Lady's Productions have a more extensive Spread and Acquaintance.  
Pardon me, Sir, and give me leave to conclude with my humble Thanks for all your Civilities and Kindnesses, and my hearty Wishes for your Prosperity. I am,  
SIR, Your most Obliged humble Servant, Sam. Crouch.   

A RELATION OF A Voyage to SPAIN, IN Several Letters.  

LETTER. I.  
SEEING you are so earnest with me to let you know all my Adventures and whatsoever I have observed during my Travels, you must therefore be contented (my dear Cousin) to bear with a great many trifling Occurrences, before you can meet with what will please you: I know your fancy is so nice and delicate, that none but extraordinary Accidents can entertain you; and I wish I had no others to relate: but recounting things faithfully, as they have happened, you must be contented therewith.  
I gave you an Account in my last, of what I met with as far as Bayonne: you know this is a Town in France, Frontier to Spain, washed by the River's Dadour and Nivelle, which join together; and the Sea comes up to them. The Port and Trade are considerable: I came from Axe by Water, and observed that the Boat-men of Adour have the same Custom as those of Caronne; which is to say, That in passing by one another, they set up a Hollowing; and they had rather lose their Wages than to forbear these sort of Shouting, although exceeding vexatious to those who are not used to them. There are two Castles strong enough to defend the Town, and there are about it several pleasant Walks.  
At my Arrival there, I entreated the Baron de Castlenau, who had accompanied me from Axe, to bring me acquainted with some Women, with whom I might spend my time with less impatience, till the Litters came, which were to be sent to me from St. Sebastian.  
He readily complied with my Request: for being a Person of Quality and Worth, he is much esteemed at Bayonne. He failed not the next Morning to bring several Ladies to visit me.  
These Women begin here to feel the scorching Heats of the Sun; their Complexion is dark, their Eyes sparkling; they are charming enough, their Wits are sharp: And I could give you a farther Account of their Capacities, could I have better understood what they said: not but that they could all speak French, yet with such a different Dialect, as surpassed my Understanding.  
Some who came to see me, brought little sucking Pigs under their Arms, as we do little Dogs: it's true they were very spruce, and several of 'em had Collars of Ribbons, of various Colours: However, this Custom looks very odd, and I cannot but think that several among themselves are disgusted at it: When they danced, they must set them down, and let these grunting Animals run about the Chamber, where they make a very pleasant Harmony. These Ladies danced at my Entreaty, the Baron of Castleneau having sent for Pipes and Tabors.  
The Gentlemen who attended the Ladies, took each of 'em her whom he had brought with him, and the Dance began in a Round, all holding Hands: they had afterwards long Canes brought them, and then each Spark taking hold of the Lady's Handkerchief, which separated them from one another, moved very gracefully at the Sound of this Martial sort of Music, which inspired them with such Heat, that they seemed not to be able to moderate it. This seemed to me to resemble the Pyrric Dance so much celebrated by the Ancients; for these Gentlemen and Ladies made so many Turns, Frisks and Capers, their Canes being thrown up into the Air, and dexterously caught again, that it is impossible to describe their Art and Agility: And I had a great deal of Pleasure in seeing 'em; but methoughts it lasted too long, and I began to grow weary of this ill-ordered Ball▪ When the Baron de Castleneau, who perceived it, caused several Baskets of dried Fruit to be brought in. They are the Jews who passed for Portuguises, and dwell at Bayonne, who transport them from Geroa, and furnish all the Country with them. We wanted not for Limonade, and other refreshing Waters, of which these Ladies drank hearty; and so the Entertainment ended.  
I was carried the next Morning to see the Synagogue of the Jews, in the Suburb of the Holy Spirit, but met with nothing remarkable there. Monsieur de St. Pe, the King's Lieutenant, who came to see me, though much troubled with the Gout, invited me to Dine at his House, where I was most deliciously entertained; for this is a Country abounding with good Cheer, and at cheap Rates. I found here Women of Quality, that were very handsome, whom he had invited to bear me Company. The sight of the Castle, which faces the River, is very pleasant, and has always a good Garrison in it.  
At my return to my Lodging, I was surprised to find several Pieces of Linen, which were brought to me from the Ladies who came to see me, with Baskets full of dried Sweetmeats. This Treatment seemed to me very obliging, to a Lady whom they had not known above four or five Days. But I must not forget to tell you, there is not any finer Linen in the World than that which is made in this Country, some of which is open like Network, and the Threads of it finer than Hair: And I remember, that travelling through the Villages of Bourdeaux, which may be rather called Deserts, the poor Peasants living so wretchedly; yet I found among them as neat Napkins as those used amongst People of Quality at Paris.  
I failed not to send these Ladies such little Presents which I thought might please them: I perceived they were great Admirers of Ribbons, and wear a great many on their Heads and Ears, which made me send them a great many; to which I added several Fans: and they, by way of Return, presented me with Gloves, and Thread-Stockins, most delicately knit.  
In sending them to me, they desired me to go to the next Chapel, which was not far from my Quarters, where they intended to Regale me with the best Music the Town would afford but though there were very good Voices, yet there is no great pleasure in hearing them, because they want both Air and Skill.  
The Litters which I expected from Spain, being come, I prepared for my Departure; but I never met any thing dearer than these sort of Equipages; for each Litter has a Master that accompanies it, who keeps the Gravity of a Roman Senator, being mounted on a Mule, and his Man on another, with which they release ever and anon those that carry the Litter. I had two, I took the greatest for myself and my Child, and had besides four Mules for my Servants, and two others for my Baggage: to conduct them, there were other two Masters and two Men. You see what Charge one is at, to go to Madrid, seeing you must pay not only for their Attendance on you forwards, but the same Price for their return back: However, we must submit to their Customs, and suffer ourselves to be peeled by them.  
I found at Bayonne several Turks and Moors, and I think a worse sort of People, and these are Custom-House-Men: I had caused my Trunks to be weighed at Paris, that I might have the less to do with these sort of People; but they were more subtle, or to speak better, more obstinate than I; so that I was forced to give them whatsoever they demanded. Scarcely was I got clear from them, when the Drums, Trumpets, Pipes, and Violins of the Town, came thundering upon me; they followed me farther than St. Anthony's Gate, through which you pass for Spain through biscay: they played each of them in their way, and all together without any Harmony, which was enough to drive any one out of their Senses: I ordered some Money to be given them, upon which they left persecuting me. As soon as we had left Bayonne, we entered into a large barren Heath, where we saw nothing but Chestnut-trees; but we afterwards passed along by the Sea, whose Sand makes a delightful way, and a pleasant Prospect.  
We arrived in good time at St. John de Luz: nothing can be pleasanter than this Borough, which is the greatest in France, and the best built; there are several smaller Cities: its Port lies between two Mountains, which Nature seems to have expressly placed to defend it from Storms; the River Nivelle disgorges itself therein; the Sea comes up very high in it, and the greatest Barks come up commodiously to the Key. The Seamen here are very skilful at catching Whales, and other large Fish. We were here very well entertained, so that our Tables were covered with all sorts of Wild Fowl: but our Beds were not answerable, being stuck with Feathers whose Pinions ran into our sides, and we wanted Quilts to lay on the top of them: I thought when we were to pay, that I should have had a large Reckoning, but they only demanded of me half a Lewis Dor, when they would have cost more than five Pistoles at Paris. The Situation of St. John de Luz is extremely agreeable.  
In the most spacious part of the Town you see here a very fine Church, built after the Modern Fashion; and here is a Passage over the River Nivelle, on a Wooden Bridge of great length. Here are Toll-Gatherers, who make you pay for every thing you carry with you, not excepting your : This Tax is demanded at their Pleasure; and it is excessive on Strangers. I was weary with speaking French to 'em, and protesting I was no Spaniard; they feigning not to understand me, sneering in my Face, and wrapping up their Heads in their Hooded-Gowns; they seemed to me to be Thiefs, disguised in Capuchins: In short, they taxed me eighteen Crowns, and would persuade me they used me well, tho' I found the contrary. But I have already told you (dear Cousin), that when you travel this Country, you must stock yourself with Patience, and good store of Money.  
I saw the Castle of Artois, which seems a strong place; and a little farther Orognes', where the biscay is spoken, without either French or Spanish. I designed to lie at Iron, which is but three Leagues distant from St. John de Luz and I had set out that after Noon, but the Dispute which we had with the Watch on the Bridge, the Difficulty we had in passing the Mountains of Beotia, and the ill Wether, joined to other little Difficulties which happened, were the Cause that it was Night before we arrived on the Borders of the River Bidassoa, which separates France from Spain. I observed along the way from Bayonne thither, little Carriages, on which they transport every thing, which have only two Iron Wheels, and the Noise they make is so great, that they are heard a mile off, when there are many of them together, which often happen; for you often meet with Sixty or Seventy at a time; they are drawn by Oxen. I have seen the same in the Villages of Bourdeaux, and especially on the side of Axe.  
The River of Bidassoa is usually very small, but the Snows melting, had increased it to such a degree, that we had no small trouble to pass it, some in a Boat, and others swimming on their Mules: The Moon shined very bright, by means of which I was showed on the right Hand the Isle of Conference, where the Marriage of our King was made with Maria Therese, Infanta of Spain. I saw a while after the Fort of Fontarabia, which belongs to the King of Spain, standing on the Mouth of this small River: the Flux and Reflux of the Sea arrives here. Our Kings heretofore pretended it belonged to them: there have been such great Contests hereupon, especially by the Inhabitants of Fontarabia, and those of Andaye, that they have several times come to Blows. This obliged Lewis the Twelfth, and Ferdinand, to agree, That it should be common to both Nations: the French and the Spaniards take Toll equally; these last making those pay who pass into Spain, and the former doing the like in relation to those who pass over to France.  
War does not hinder Commerce on this Frontier: it's true they cannot subsist without it, seeing they must perish through Want, did they not assist one another.  
This Country called biscay, is full of high Mountains, where are several Iron Mines: The Biscays climb up the Rocks as easily, and with as great swiftness as Stags: Their Language (if one may call such Jargon Language) is very poor, seeing one Word signifies abundance of Things: There are none but those born in the Country that can understand it; and I am told, that to the end it may be more particularly theirs, they make no use of it in Writing; they make their Children to read and write French and Spanish, according to which King's Subjects they are. It's certain, as soon as I passed the little River of Bydassoa, I was not understood, unless I spoke Castillan; and not above a quarter of an Hour before, I should not have been understood had I not spoke French.  
I found on the other side of this River a Banker of St. Sebastian, to whom I was recommended: he tarried for me, with two of his Relations; they were clothed after the French manner, but ridiculously, their Justau Corpse being short and large, and their Sleeves hanging down very short; those of their Shirts were so large, that they hung down below their Justan Corpse: they had Bands without Collars, and Periwigs, one of which had enough Hair for four, and so frizzled, as made 'em look as if they were frighted; iller-drest People you cannot meet with. Those who wear their own Hair, wear it very long and close, parting it on the Crown, and pass part of it behind their Ears: But what kind of Ears think you? those of Midas were not larger; and I believe, that to lengthen them, they are stretched when they be young: without question they find some kind of Beauty herein.  
My three Spaniards made me in bad French most tedious and dull Compliments. We passed through the Bourg of Tran, which is about a quarter of a League from the River, and came afterwards to Irun, which is distant about another quarter of a League: this little Town is the first of Spain which you meet with, leaving France: it's ill built, the Streets are unequal, and there's nothing one can speak of: We entered into the Inn through the Stable, where are the Stairs on which you must ascend to your Chamber; this is the Country's Fashion. I found this House very light, by a great many Candles, which were as small as Pack-thread; there were at least forty in my Chamber, fixed on little bits of Wood; in the midst of 'em stood a Pan of Coals burning, made of Olive Rhines, to take away the scent of the Candles.  
I had a great Supper, which my Gallants, the Spaniards had caused to be made ready for me; but all was so full of Garlic, Saffron and Spice, that I could eat nothing: and I had made very bad Cheer, had not my Cook made me a little Ragon of what he could find.  
Determining to go but to St. Sebastian the next Morning, which is but seven or eight Leagues, I thought to Dine before I set out: I was sitting at Table, when one of my Women brought me my Watch to wind it up, as it was my Custom at Noon; it was a striking Watch, of Tompion's make, and cost me fifty Lewises: My Banker, who was by me, showed some desire to see it; I gave it him, with a customary Civility. This was enough: my Blade rises, makes me a profound Reverence, telling me, He did not deserve so considerable a Present; but such a Lady as I could make no other: That he would engage his Faith and Reputation, that he would never part with my Watch as long as he lived; and that he found himself extremely obliged to me. He kissed it at the end of this pleasant Compliment, and thrust it into his Pocket, which was deeper than a Sack. You'll take me to be a gery great Sot, in saying nothing to all this, and I do not wonder at it; but I confess ingenuously, I was so surprised at his Proceeding, that the Watch was out of sight before I could resolve on what I was to do. My Women, and the rest of my Servants who were about me, stared on me, and I on them, blushing with Shame and Vexation to be thus caught: However, I recollected myself, and considered, that this Man was to pay me a good round Sum of Money for the Charge of my Journey, and to return Money to Bourdeaux, where I had taken it up; that having Bills of Credit on him, he might use several Tricks to me, and Put-offs, which might make me spend twice the Value of the Watch: In fine, I let him part with it, and endeavoured to do myself Honour from a thing which gave me great Mortification.  
I have learned, since this little Adventure, that 'tis the Custom in Spain, when any thing is presented to one, if he likes it, and kisses your Hand, he may take it with him. This is a very pleasant Fashion, and being sufficiently acquainted with it, 'twill be my Fault if I am Trapped again.  
I left this Inn, where they peeled me sufficiently; for this is a grievous dear Country, and every one strives to be Rich at his Neighbour's Cost. A while after we had left the Town, we entered on the Pyrenean Mountains, which are so high and steep, that looking down, you see, not without Horror, the Precipices which environ them: we went thus as far as Rentery: Don Antonio (which was my Banker's Name) went before me, and for my more commodious Passage, he obliged me to quit my Litter; for although we had traversed several Mountains, yet there remained more difficult to pass: he made me enter into a little Boat, which he had prepared to go down the River of Andaye, till we were near the Mouth of the Sea, where we saw the King of Spain's Galleons; there were three very fine and large ones. Our little Boats were set forth with Gilt Streamers; they were managed by Girls, who were very lusty and handsome; there are three in each, two that Row, and one who holds the Rudder.  
These Wenches are very well shaped, of Chesnut Complexion, have very good Teeth, Hair Black, which they tie up with Ribbons, in Knots, and so let it hang behind them: They wear a kind of Veil on their Heads, made of Muzzling, embroidered with Flowers of Gold and Silk, which hangs lose, and covers their Breasts: they wear Pendants in their Ears of Gold and Pearls, and Bracelets of Coral; they have a kind of Justau Corpse, like our Gypsies, whose Sleeves are very straight: I can assure you they charmed me. I was told, these Wenches swim like Fishes, and suffer neither Women nor Men among them. This is a kind of Republic, where they repair from all Parts, and where their Parents send them very young.  
When they are willing to marry, they go to Mass at Fontarabia, which is the nearest Town to 'em; and there the young Men come to choose 'em Wives to their Humour. He that will engage himself in Hymen's Bonds, goes to his Mistress' Parents, declares to them his Intentions, regulates every thing with them: And this being done, notice of it is given to the Maid: If she likes the Party, she retires to their House, where the Nuptuals are celebrated.  
I never saw a more gay Air than that on their Countenances; they have little Habitations along the Waterside, and there are old Maidens to whom the younger pay Respect, as to their Mothers. They related these Particulars to us in their Language, and we harkened to 'em with great Delight, when the Devil, who never sleeps, disturbed us with a vexatious Adventure.  
My Cook, who is a Gascon, and exactly of the Humour of those of that Country, was in one of our Boats behind us, at some distance, very near a young Biscaneer, who appeared to him very handsome; he contented not himself with telling her as much, but would have rudely turned up her Veil. She being not used to this sort of plain Dealing, without any Words broke his Head with her Oar: Having done this Exploit, Fear seizing on her, she threw herself immediately into the Water, tho' the Season was very cold, and swum with great swiftness; but having all her  on, and it being far to the Shoar, her strength began to fail her. Several of these Wenches who saw this at Land, leapt immediately into their Boats to her Assistance, when those who had remained in the Boat with the Cook, fearing the loss of their Companion, fell on him like two Furies, resolving by all means to drown him, and had like two or three times to have overturned their little Vessel, which we beholding from ours, had much  to part and appease them.  
I assure you, the foolish Gascon was so cruelly handled, that he was all over blood; and my Banker told me, that these young Biscaneers provoked, are worse than Lions. In fine, we came to Land, but were scarcely on Shoar, but we saw this Wench which was saved out of the Water, making up towards us, with near fifty others, each with an Oar on their Shoulder, marching in Battle-ray, with Fife and Drum; when she who was to be the Mouth of the Company, advanced, and calling me several times Andria, which is to say, Madam, (for that's all I could retain of her Speech) gave me to understand, That they would have my Cook's Skin, if Satisfaction were not made proportionably to the Damage done their Companion's . At the ending of which words, the She-Drummers fell loudly beating their Drums, and the rest of their Amazons set up an Hollowing, Leaping and Dancing, and Fencing with their Oars in a most astonishing manner.  
Don Antonio, to make me amends for the Present he had wrung from me, (I cannot but often mention it, lying on my Heart as it does) undertook to make Peace: He found that my Cook, who thought himself sufficiently beaten, had Reason to give nothing; and therefore he distributed some Pieces of Money among this Marine Troop: On receipt of which they set forth louder Hollow's than before, and wished me a good Journey, and speedy Return, each of 'em dancing and singing at the sound of their Pipes and Tabors.  
We entered into a very rough Way, and ascending along very narrow Paths, on the side of which there are Precipices; so that I was greatly afraid lest the Mules which carried my Litter should stumble: We afterwards passed over a large Sandy Field. I tarried some time in the Convent of St. Francis, which stands near the River of Andaye: We passed over it on a very long Wooden Bridge; and though we were near St. Sebastian, yet we could not then perceive it, because a Mount of Sand hid the Town: It's situated on the Foot of a Mountain, which serves on one side as a Rampart against the Sea, and the Vessels come to the Foot of this Mountain, to shelter them from the Storms; for here arise extraordinary Tempests, that the Ships at Anchor perish in the Port: it's deep, and defended by two Moles, which leave only as much room as is requisite for one Vessel passing at a time. They have raised here a great four Square Tower, where there is ever a good Garrison to defend the Place, in case of Assault: it was a fine Day for the Season: I found the Town very pleasant, being surrounded with a double Wall: there are mounted several Pieces of Cannon on that part towards the Sea, with Bastions and Half Moons: the Town is situated in a Province of Spain, called Guipuscoa: the Outparts are exceeding pleasant, by reason that the Sea, as I now said, serves for a Channel to it: the Streets of this Town are long and large, paved with great White Stones, which are always clean: the Houses are well enough; and the Churches decent, in which the Altars are of Wood, on which are hung little Pictures, from top to bottom. Mines of Iron and Steel abound in this Country, finer and purer perhaps than in any other Parts of Europe; and this is the greatest part of their Trade. Here the Wool which comes from Castille, is embarked, which makes a considerable part of their Traffic. Bilbo and St. Sebastian are two of the most considerable Ports which the King of Spain has on the Ocean: The Castle stands very high, and may make an indifferent Defence: here are mounted several fine Pieces of Cannon, and there are a great many along the Ramparts; but the Garrison is so weak, that the Women might conquer them with their Distaffs.  
Every thing is as dear in this Town as in Paris, yet they far well here: Fish is excellent, and I was told Fruit was the same. I lay in the best Inn, and when I had been there some time, Don Fernand de Toledo, sent his Gentlemen to inquire, whether his Visit would not be troublesome to me; My Banker, who knew him, and who was then in my Chamber, told me, he was a Spaniard of great Quality, Nephew to the Duke D' Alva; that he came from Flanders, and was going to Madrid.  
I received him with that Civility which was due to his Birth, and soon thereunto adjoined particular Respects to his own Merit: He is a Gentleman of good Presence, has Wit and Politeness is Complaisant and Agreeable; he speaks as good French as I do; but understanding Spanish, and being desirous to speak it better, we therefore discoursed only in that Language.  
I was very well satisfied with his Carriage. He told me he came Post hither from Brussels, and if I pleased, he would increase my Train, and be one of my Company. I thought he jested, and answered him accordingly; but he added, The ways were so full of Snow, that indeed they could not ride Post; that he could make more speed on Horses than in Litters, but the Honour of accompanying me, made abundant Recompense for that. In a word, I say he was a civil Person, and came no way short of the Gallantry natural to the Spanish Cavaliers: I therefore considered, how advantageous it might prove to have a Man of this Quality, and Country, who could make himself be heard and obeyed by the Muletteers, who have Iron Souls, and no Consciences.  
I told him, I was very glad I met with him, and the Fatigue of the Road would be lessened by his Company. He immediately thereupon ordered his Gentleman to find a Litter for him: It being late, he took his leave of me, and I betook myself to eat a good Supper; for, my dear Cousin, I am none of those Romantic Ladies that never eat.  
Scarcely did I begin to sleep, when I heard somebody speak French so near me, that I thought at first 'twas in my Chamber; but having harkened with more attention, I found 'twas in a Chamber separated from mine by only some thin Board's, and those ill jointed: I drew my Curtain, and saw Light through the Crevices, and at the same time two young Women, the eldest of which appeared not to be above Seventeen or Eighteen; neither of 'em were of those Beauties without Defect, yet were they so pretty, spoke so sweetly, and had such great sweetness on their Countenances, that I was much taken with 'em.  
The youngest, who seemed to, continue the Conversation, said to the other, No, my dear Sister, there is no Remedy to our Misfortunes; we must die, or get them out of the Clutches of this villainous Dotard. I am resolute for any thing, replied the other, in uttering a deep sigh, should it cost me my Life: What remains? Have we not sacrificed all for them? Then considering a while their Misfortunes, they mutually embraced, and began to weep in a most piteous manner: And having consulted a while, and spoke some other Words, the greatest part of which were interrupted by their Sighs, they concluded on Writing, which they did; and here is most of what I heard them read to one another:  
Judge not of my Love and Grief by my Words, I have none can express either the one or the other; but remember you Ruin me, unless you betake yourself to the greatest Extremities against him that persecutes us. He has now sent me word, That if we delay our Departure, he will have us seized. Consider what he deserves from this base Usage of us; and remember you own me all, seeing you own me my Heart.  
I think the other Billet was in these Terms,  
Can I secure thee thy Happiness, in losing mine, I love thee sufficiently to offer thee such a Sacrifice:: Yes, I would fly from thee, couldst thou be Happy without me; but I know thy Heart too well to believe this. Yet thou remainest as Quiet in thy Prison, as if I were with thee: Break thy Chains without more delay; punish the Enemy of our Loves. My Heart shall be thy Recompense.  
Having made up these Billets, they went out together; and I profess, I was not a little uneasy for 'em, and no less curious to know these poor Lady's Misfortunes. This hindered me from sleeping, and I was expecting their Return, when immediately there was a great Uproar in the House: I saw an old Man enter the Chamber, attended by a great many Servants: He held one of these young Women by the Hair of the Head, which he had wound about his Arm, and drew her after him, as a wretched Sacrifice. Her Sister was not treated with less Cruelty, by those who led her: Perfidious Wretches, said he to them, not content with the irreparable Injury you do my Nephews, you would persuade them to be my Executioners? Had I not surprised you with these seducing Letters what might have happened? What dreadful Tragedies might I not have expected? But you shall pay once for all: as soon as ever the Day appears I will have you punished as you deserve. Ah Sir, said she whom he held, remember we are Women of Quality, and that our Alliance can be no Dishonour to you; that your Nephews have given us their Faith, and we them ours; that in so tender an Age we have left all for their sakes; that we are strangers, and have no Friends here: What will become of us? We dare not return to our Relations: if you are for constraining us to this, or for putting us in Prison, let us entreat you rather presently to dispatch us out of the World.  
The Tears which they shed in such abundance, wrought in me the greatest Compassion: And had the old Man been as tender as I, he had soon freed 'em from their Trouble.  
My Women, who had heard such a great Disturbance, and so near my Chamber, arose, in the fear of some Mishap towards me: I made Signs to them to draw near softly, and to behold through the Board's this sorrowful Spectacle: We harkened to what they said, when two Men, with their Swords in their Hands, entered into my Chamber, the Door of which my Women had left open: They had Despair painted on their Faces, and Rage in their Eyes: I was so greatly frighted, that I cannot express it to you. They looked on one another without speaking a word; and having heard the old Man's Voice, they ran on that side.  
I did not doubt but 'twas the two Lovers; and 'twas them indeed, who entered like two Lions into this Chamber: They struck these Servants with so great Terror, that never a one of 'em dared approach his Master, to defend him, when his Nephews advance towards him, and set their Swords to his Throat: Barbarian, said they to him, can you thus use Women of Quality, that are to be our Wives? Because you are our Guardian must you therefore be our Tyrant? And is not the separating of us from what we love, the taking of our Lives from us? It's now in our Power to take a just Vengeance of you; but we cannot do it to a Man of your Age, who cannot defend himself: give us then your Word, and swear by all that's Good and Holy, That in Acknowledgement for the Life we give you, you will contribute to our Happiness, and suffer us to perform what we have promised.  
The poor old Wretch was so affrighted, that he could hardly make any Answer: However, he swore more than they would have him; he fell on his Knees, and kissed an hundred times his Thumb laid  one of his Fingers, after the manner of Spain. Yet he told them, whatever he had done, was only in regard to their Interests; however, he would not in any sort, for the future, oppose their Inclinations, in reference to this Marriage. Two of the Domestics took him under the Arm, and rather carried him away than led him. Then the Gentlemen seeing themselves free, threw themselves in their Mistress' Arms; they said to one another, whatever Grief, Love and Joy do usually inspire in such Occasions. But in Troth, one must have a Heart as affected and content as theirs, to repeat all these things: they are only proper to Persons more tender than you are, my dear Cousin. But I hope you will excuse this Relation; I was so tired, in having not yet slept, that I could scarce hear any more, but confusedly: and to hear no more, I got farther into bed, and threw the Quilt over my Head.  
The next Morning Don Fernand de Toledo, sent me some choice Wines, with great quantity of Oranges and Sweetmeats. As soon as he thought it a proper time to Visit me, he came: Having thanked him for his Present, I asked him, Whether he had heard nothing of what had passed in the Night? He told me, No, for he had lain in another part of the House. I was about relating to him what I knew, when our Hostess entered into the Chamber: she came from the two Gentlemen who had given me that Disturbance, with the Swords in their Hands, entreating me to receive their Excuses. She likewise told me, That two young Ladies desired they might wait on me, and kiss my Hand. I answered these Civilities as I ought; and they soon entered.  
What charming Effects does the Return of Joy produce? I found these Gentlemen very well shaped, and these Ladies very lovely; neither one nor the other had any more on their Countenances the Characters of Despair; an Air of Gaiety displayed itself in all their Words and Gestures. The Eldest of the two Brethren made the most handsome Excuse as is possible for his Mistake in entering my Chamber: he added, He had well observed the Fear he had caused me; but told me, that in that Moment he was so transported, that he was capable of no other Thought but the Rescuing his Mistress. You would have been to blame, said I to him, should you have thought of any thing else: However, if it be true, you are willing to make me Satisfaction for the Alarm you have given me, you must not refuse the gratifying my Curiosity: With these fair Lady's leave, inform we what has reduced all of you to these Extremities you were in. He looked on them, as if it were to ask their Approbation, which they willingly granted; and he thus began: We are two Brothers, Madam, Natives of Burgos, and of one of the best Families of this City. We were very young, when we fell into the Hands of an Uncle, who took care of our Education and Estates, which are so considerable, that we need not envy others on that account; Don Diego (is our Uncle's Name) he had made long since a firm Friendship with a Gentleman living near Blaye, whose Merit is far above his Fortune; he is called Monsieur de Mesignac: our Uncle resolving to send us for some time into France, he wrote hereupon to his Friend, who offered him his House, which he joyfully accepted. He made us set out; and it is a Year since we were received there with great Civility; Madam de Messignac used us as her own Children; she has several: but of her four Daughters, those you see are the most amiable. It would have been very difficult to have seen them every day, to dwell with them, and yet not to have loved them.  
My Brother at first concealed from me his growing Passion, and I hide mine from him; we were both of us very melancholy; the trouble of loving, without being loved again, and the fear of displeasing those who caused our Passion, all this cruelly tormented us; but a new Vexation did greatly increase our Disquiet, which was a restless Jealousy we had one of another: My Brother plainly saw I was in Love, and thought 'twas with his Mistress; I looked on him likewise as my Rival; and we bore such Hatred to one another, as might have transported us to the greatest Extremities: but that I resolutely determined one day to discover my Sentiments to Mademoiselle de Messignac; but wanting Courage to speak to her myself, I wrote some Verses in a little Book touching my Passion for her, and dextrously slid it into her Pocket, without her perceiving me. My Brother, who had always an Eye on me, observed it, and playing with her, he took out the Verses, and found 'em to contain a respectful and passionate Declaration of Love to her: he kept them till Night, when being withdrawn into my Chamber, with the greatest Inquietude, he came to me, and tenderly embracing me, he told me, He was hearty glad at the notice he had of my being in love with Mademoiselle de Messignac.  
I remained as one Thunderstruck; I saw my Papers in his Hands; I imagined she had made them a Sacrifice to him, and that he came to insult on my Misfortune. He saw in my Eyes and Countenance part of what I thought: Undeceive yourself, continued he, she gave 'em not to me; I have taken 'em without her seeing them: I'll be serviceable to you for the obtaining her; be you the same to me in relation to her elder Sister. I than embraced him, and promised him all he desired. Thus we mutually rendered good Offices to one another; and our Mistresses, who were not then acquainted with the power of Love, began to accustom themselves to hear talk of it.  
It would be to abuse your Patience, to tell you, Madam, how we came at length by our Cares and Assiduities to win their Hearts. What happy Moment's! what sweet Hours! to see without ceasing what one loves, and to be beloved! to be together in the Fields, where an Innocent and Country Life let's one taste, without disturbance, the Pleasures of a growing Passion; this is a Felicity which cannot be expressed.  
Winter being come, Madam de Messignac was at Bourdeaux, where she had a House; we accompanied her thither; but this House was not great enough to ledge us, with all our Family; we took one near hers.  
Though this Separation was only the Nights, yet we had lively Resentments of it; we were not now every Moment with 'em; our Visits were accompanied with a certain Air of Ceremonies, which disturbed us. But our Alarms were much increased, when we saw two rich handsome Sparks address themselves to Mademoiselles de Messignac, and earnestly Court them, and that with the Approbation of their Parents. Good God, how we looked! Their Proceed went on at a great rate, and our dear Mistresses, who shared in our Sorrow, mingled every day their Tears with ours. In fine, having throughly tormented ourselves, by devising a thousand fruitless ways, I resolved to Address myself to Monsieur de Messignac: I spoke to him, and told him what my Passion inspired me, to persuade him to defer these Marriages. He answered, He accepted, with the greatest Acknowledgements, the Offers my Brother and I made him; but being not of Age, what we might do at present might be afterwards Cancelled: That his Honour was dear to him, though his Estate was small; however, should always esteem himself Happy, in living without Reproach: That my Uncle, who had entrusted us to him, might justly accuse him of Seducing us; and that in short, we must no more think of these Matters.  
I withdrew in the greatest Affliction, which I shared with my Brother; and this was a dreadful trouble among us. Monsieur de Messignac, to complete our misfortunes, sent an Account to my Uncle, of what had passed, and earnestly entreated him to lay his Commands on us to be gone. He did so; and seeing no remedy to our Misfortunes, we went, my Brother and I, to Mademoiselles de Messignac, we threw ourselves at their Feet; We told them what might persuade Hearts already prepossessed: We gave them our Faith and Promises, Signed with our Blood: In short, Love made an end of vanquishing them; they conserted to go with us. In fine, we took such Measures, that our Passage was happy enough till our Arrival here; and it is not two days since entering this House, the first Person offering himself to us was Don Diego; He was impatient of our Return; and to satisfy himself, he came in quest of us. How did we look at this sight! He caused us to be apprehended as Criminals; and forgetting that Mademoiselles de Messignac, were the Daughters of his best Friend, and Persons of Quality, he loaded them with Injuries, and o'erwhelmed them with Threaten, after he had learned from one of my Servants, that we had resolved to pass Incognito as far as Madrid, to some Relations we had there, to tarry in this place for a full liberty of declaring our Marriage. He locked us up in a Chamber next to his; and we were there, when these Ladies came by Moonlight, coughing under our Windows. We heard them, and ran to them— They showed us their Letters; and we were devising on our Deliverance, when my Uncle, having notice of what past, silently came upon us with all his Servants, and before our Faces misused these amiable Creatures. In the Excess of our Despair our Strength, without doubt, increased. We broke open the Doors, which were fast shut on us, and we ran to Succour them, when imprudently, Madam, we came into your Chamber.  
The Gentleman here stopped, and I found he had related his little History with great Ingenuity. I thanked him for it, and offered these Ladies my Endeavours, and those of my Friends, to appease their Family: Which Offers they accepted, and testified their Acknowledgements.  
Some Ladies of the Town, who came to see me, would stop me; they proposed to me to go to the Religioses, whose Convent is so pleasantly situated, that the Prospect has no Bounds: You may see thence, at the same time, the Sea, Ships, Towns, Woods and Fields. They spoke much in praise of the Voices, Beauty, and good Humour of these Religioses. Add to this, that the ill Wether was so increased, and the Snow fallen in so great abundance, that no body advised me to proceed in my Journey. I was in suspense a while, but the Impatience I had to be at Madrid, prevailed over all these Considerations, and I parted the next Morning. I have received of my Banker the Money I want.  
But I must not forget to tell you, that the Inhabitants of this Town have a particular Privilege, and of which they are not a little proud; which is, That when they Treat of any Affairs with the King of Spain, and that it is directly with him, he is obliged to speak with them bareheaded. I could not get the Reason from 'em for this.  
I am told I must furnish myself with good store of Provision, to prevent starving in some places through which we must pass; and Gammons of Bacon, dried Tongues, being much esteemed in this Country, I have therefore taken up a good quantity; and as to the rest, we have sufficiently provided. Now this being the Post-day, I would not omit this occasion of informing you of what has happened to me; and testifying, that I am,  
From St. Sebastian, Feb. 20. 1679. Yours.   

LETTER. II.  
I Reassume, Dear Cousin, without any Compliments, the Sequel of my Travels: In leaving St. Sebastian, we entered into a very rough Way, which brings you to such terrible steep Mountains, that you cannot ascend them without climbing; they are called Sierra de St. Adrian. They show only Precipices and Rocks, on which a puling Lover may meet with certain Death, if he has a mind to it. Pine Trees of an extraordinary height crown the top of these Mountains. As far as the Sight will reach you see nothing but Deserts, cut with Streams clearer than Crystal. Near the highest part of Mount St. Adrian, you meet with an elevated Rock, which seems to have been placed in the midst of the way to block up the Passage, and thus separate biscay from the Old Castille.  
A tedious and painful Labour has pierced this mass of Stone in manner of a Vault; you may walk forty or fifty Paces under it, without sight of Day, but what comes by the Overtures at each Entry, which are shut by great Doors: You find under this Vault an Inn, which is left in the Winter, by Reason of the Snows: You see here likewise a little Chapel of St. Adrian, and several Caverns, where Thiefs commonly retreat; so that it is dangerous passing here without being in a condition of Defence. When he had traversed the Rock, we still a little ascended, to rrrive to the top of the Mountain, which is held to be the highest of the Pyraneds; it is wholly covered with great Ash Trees. There was never a finer place of Solitude; the Springs run here as in the Valleys: the sight is only bounded by the Weakness of the Eyes; Shades and Silence here reign, and the Echoes answers on every side. We began afterwards to descend down faster than we climbed up: We saw in some parts little barren Plains, many sandy places, and ever and anon Mountains covered with great Rocks. It is not without Reason, that in passing so near, you fear, lest some one of 'em should get lose, which would certainly over-whelm one; for you see some which are fallen from the top, and hang in their passage on other Clefts; and these finding nothing in the way, would give a sorry Diversion to a Traveller. I made all these Reflections at my ease; for I was alone in my Litter, with my Child, who did not at all disturb my Thoughts. A River called Vrrola, big enough, but which was increased by the Torrents, and melted Snow, slides along the Way, and breaks forth into particular Streams in some places, which fall with a great impetuosity and noise, and make a very pleasant sound and sight.  
We meet not here with those fine Castles to be seen on the Banks of the Loire, which make Travellers call it the Country of Fairies. Here are on these Mountains only some Shepherd's Cottages, and some few hovel, and at that distance, that you must go a great way before you can find them; yet all these Natural Objects, though very melancholy ones, yet have something that is very taking in them. The Snows were so high, that we had always twenty Men, who made way for us with Shovels. You will perhaps imagine this cost me very much; but here are so well established Orders, and those so well observed, that the Inhabitants of a Village are obliged to meet Travellers, and be their Guides to the next; and no one being bound to give them any thing, the least Liberality therefore satisfies them. To this first Care there is added another, which is that of Ringing the Bells without-ceasing, to give notice to Travellers, where they may retreat in stormy Wether. They told me, there had not fallen this forty Years so much Snow as we met with, there having been no Frost for a great while in this Province.  
Our Troop was so great, that we might count ourselves no ways inferior to those Famous Caravans which go to Mecha; for without reckoning my Train, and that of Don Fernand de Toledo, there joined with us near St. Sebastian, three Knights, with their Attendants, who returned from their Commanderships of St. James; there were two of this Order, and one of that of Alcantara: The first wear Red Crosses, in form of an embroidered Sword, on their Shoulders; and he of Alcantara had a Green one. One of the two first is of Andalousia, the other of Galicia, and the third of Catalonia; they are of good Families; he of Andalousia calls himself, Donesteve de Carvaial; he of Galicia, Don Sancho Sanniento, and the other of Catalonia, Don Frederic de Cardonne; they are Persons of good Mien, and well acquainted with the World. I received all possible Civilities from them, having much of the French Humour in them. They have traveled over the greatest Part of Europe; and this has rendered them so Polite. We went to lie at Galareta; this is a Borough a little distant from Mount Adrian, situated in the little Province of Spain, I now mentioned named Alava, which makes a Part of biscay; we had there but bad Entertainment. They reckon it eleven Leagues from thence to St. Sebastian.  
We had better Way from Galareta to Victoria, than we had before: The Country here yields much Corn and Grapes; and the Villages lie very thick together: We found here Custom-House-Men, who made us pay both for the  and Money we carried with us: they were not very exacting with us, because our Company was too large to be imposed on. Don Fernand de Toledo had informed me over Night, that we were to travel near the Castle of Quebare, which was said to be haunted with a Spirit, telling me a thousand extravagant Stories, which were readily swallowed by the Inhabitants of the Country, and which were so effectually believed by them, that no body would live there. I had a great desire to see this place; for although I am naturally as fearful as another, yet am not afraid of Ghosts; and if I were, our Company was so numerous, as would animate the greatest Coward: we struck off a little to the left, and came to the Borough of Quebara; the Master of the Inn where we entered, had the Keys of the Castle; he told us, in going along with us, That the Duende, which is to say the Spirit, could not endure Company; yet if we were a thousand together, he would, if he were minded, beat us all, in such a manner, as to leave us for dead. I began to tremble; Don Fernand de Toledo, and Don Fredric de Cordonne, who gave me their Hands, perceiving my Fear, burst out into Laughter: I grew ashamed, and pretended to gain Courage; and so we entered the Castle, which might have passed for a fine one, had it been kept in order: It had no Furniture, except an old Tapestry Hanging in a great Hall, which represented the Amours of Don Pedro the Cruel, and Donna Maria de Padilla: she is represented fitting like a Queen in the midst of other Ladies, and the King placing on her Head a Crown of Flowers: In another part she sat under the shade of a Wood, the King showing her a Hawk on his Fist: And again, in another, she appears in a Warrier's Dress, and the King in Armour presents her with a Sword; which makes me believe that she had been in some Warlike Expedition with him. She was very ill represented; and Don Fernand told me, He had seen her Effigies elsewhere, by which she appeared to be the most beautiful and most cruel Woman of her time; and that the Figures in this Tapestry resembled neither her nor the King: his Name, Cipher and Arms were  on it. We went up into a Tower, on the top of which was a Dungeon, and 'twas there where the Spirit inhabited; but without doubt he was abroad, for we neither saw nor heard him, or any of his Companions; and having seen sufficiently this great Building, we left it to pursue our Journey. In approaching Victoria, we passed over a most delightful Plain, at the end of which stands a Town situated in this Province of Spain, I lately mentioned, called Alava; this is the Capital Town of it, as well as the first of Castille: It is enclosed with two Walls, one of which is old, and the other new; besides this, it has no other Fortifications. After I had refreshed myself a while here, 'twas proposed to me to go to a Play; but in tarrying till it began, I had no small Diversion, in seeing come into the most spacious place of the Town, four Companies of young Men, preceded by Drums and Trumpets: they marched several times round, and in fine, immediately began the Fight with Snowballs, which they threw at one another with such Fierceness, that they were all very well pelted in the end: they were above two hundred who fought this Battle. To tell you of those who fell, or recovered their Feet again, and the Shouts and Acclamations of the People, will be needless; and I was obliged to leave them thus engaged, to go to the place where the Play was to be represented.  
When I entered into the Room, the People set forth an hollowing, Mira, mira! which is to say, look, Look,! The Decoration of the Theatre was not over Magnificent; it was raised on Barrels, and ill-ranged Planks; the Windows of the Room were open, for they used no Candles or Flambeaux, whence you may easily imagine this much takes away from the Beauty of the Sight. They acted the Life of St. Anthony; and when the Players said any thing which pleased the Company, all the People cried out, Victoria, Victoria; I was informed this was the Custom of the Country. I observed the Devil was no other ways clad than the rest, having only a pair of Stockings of a Flame-colour, and a pair of Horns to distinguish him. This Comedy consisted only of three Acts, and they are all no more: at the end of each serious Act, another began of Farce and Pleasantry, wherein appeared him they called El Gracioso, which is to say, the Buffoon, who, among much insipid Stuff, says sometimes something that is less nauseous: The Interludes were mixed with Dances, to the sound of the Harps and Guitars: The Actors had Castagnets, and a little Hat on their Heads, without which they never Dance, and then 'tis a Saraband; they seem not to walk, they slip along so lightly. Their manner is wholly different from ours: they move too much their Arms, and often pass their Hands on their Hats and Face, and that with no ill Grace; they play admirably well on the Castagnets.  
As to the rest, (Dear Cousin) I would not have you think these Actors, for being in a little City, do much differ from those of Madrid. I was told, that those of the King are a little better; but, in a word, both act what they call Las Comedias Famosas, which is to say, The finest and most famous Comedies; which in truth are very ridiculous: For Example, when St. Anthony said his Confiteor, which he did often enough, all the Spectators fell down on their Knees, and gave themselves such rude Mea Culpa's, as was enough to beat the breath out of their Bodies.  
Here would be a proper place to speak of their Habits; but you had better excuse me till I come to Madrid, lest I tyre you with Repetitions: Yet I must tell you, that all the Ladies I say, in this Company, had a prodigious quantity of Red, which gins just under the Eye, and passes from the Chin to the Ears, and Shoulders, to their very Hands; so that I never saw any Radishes of a finer Colour.  
The Lady Governess of the Town drew near to me; she just touched my , and hastily drew back her Hand, as if she had burnt her Fingers. I bid her in Spanish not to be afraid: She at length familiarized herself, and told me, 'Twas not through fear of any thing else but of displeasing me: that 'twas no new thing to her to see French Ladies: and that if she might, she would gladly dress herself after their Fashion. She ordered Chocolate to be brought her, with which she presented me; which is far better here than in France. The Play being ended, I took my Leave of her, having thanked her for her Civilities.  
The next Morning, as I entered the Church to hear Mass, I espied an Hermit, who had the Air of a Person of Quality, and yet begged an Alms of me, with such great Humility, that I was greatly surprised at it: Don Fernand having notice of it, drew near, and said to me, The Person whom you behold, Madam, is of an illustrious Family, and of great Merit, but his Fortune very Unhappy.  
You raise in me, said I to him, a great Curiosity to know more; and therefore I must beg your Favour to satisfy it. You may command any thing of me, replied he, Madam; but I am not so throughly informed of his Adventures, to undertake the relating them to you; and I believe 'twere better I engage him into a Recital of them himself. He left me, and went immediately to Embrace him, with the greatest Civilities and Tenderness: Don Frederic de Cardonne, and Don Esteve de Carvajal, had already accosted him, as their old Acquaintance; and when Don Fernand had joined them, they all earnestly entreated him to come with them when Mass was over. He as earnestly excused himself; but being told, I was a Stranger, and much importuned, that I might learn from himself, what had obliged him to turn Hermit; he at length consented, on condition I would permit him to bring one of his Friends, who was perfectly knowing in what related to him: Do us Justice, continued he, and judge whether 'tis fit for me to relate such Particularities in this Habit I wear. They found he had Reason, and prayed him to bring his Friend, which he did a while after I was at my Lodgings: He presented a very fine Cavalier to me; and taking leave of us very civilly, he told him, He should be obliged to him, if he would satisfy, the Curiosity which Don Fernand de Toledo had given me, of knowing the Spring of his Misfortunes. This Gentleman took place by me, and began in these Terms:  
I think myself very Happy, Madam, that my Friend has choshen me to satisfy the Desire you have of knowing his Adventures; but I fear I shall not acquit myself so well as I would: The Person whose History you would learn, has been one of the finest Gentlemen in the World; it would be hard to make a Judgement of him now; he is buried, as it were in his Hermit's Habit. He was an exceeding graceful Person, well shaped, of an excellent Mien, and Noble Air: And in fine, had all the Accomplishments, both Natural and Acquired, of a Person of Quality, being liberal, witty and brave. He was born at Cagliari, Capital of the Isle of Sardogne, one of the most illustrious and richest Families of all that Country.  
He was brought up with one of his Cosin-Germans; and the sympathy which was sound in their Humours, and Inclinations, was so great, that they were more strictly united by Friendship than Blood: they hide no Secret from each other. And when the Marquis Barbaran was married (which was his Cosin's Name,) their Friendship continued in the same force.  
He married one of the finest Women in the World, and the most Accomplished; she was then not above Fourteen: She was Heiress to a very Noble Estate and Family. The Marquis every day discovered new Charms in the Wit and Person of his Wife, which likewise increased every day his Passion. He speaks without ceasing, of his Happiness, to Don Lewis de Barbaron; which is the Name, Madam, of my Friend; and when any Affairs obliged the Marquis to leave her, he conjured him to stay with the Marchioness, thereby to lessen the Trouble of his Absence. But alas! how hard is it when one is at an Age uncapable of serious Reflections, to see continually so fair a Woman, so young and aimable; and to see her with Indifference! Don Lewis was already desperately in Love with the Marchioness, and thought then 'twas only for her Husband's sake: Whilst he was in this Mistake, she fell dangerously sick; at which he grew so dreadful melancholy, that he then knew, but too late, this was caused by a Passion which would prove the greatest Misfortunes of his whole Life. Finding himself then in this condition, and having not strength to resist it, he resolved to use the utmost Extremity, and to fly and avoid a place where he was in danger of dying with Love, or breaking through the Bonds of Friendship. The most cruel Death would have seem gentler than the Execution of this Design: When the Marchioness beginning to grow better, he went to her to bid her Adieu, and see her no more.  
He found her busied in choosing among several Stones of great price, those which were the finest, which she intended to have set in a Ring, Don Lewis was scarce entered the Chamber, but she desired him, with that Air of Familiarity usual among Relations to go and fetch her other Stones which she moreover had in her Cabinet. He ran thither, and by an unexpected good hap, found among what he looked for, the Picture enamilled of the Marchioness, in little, set with Diamonds, and encircled with a Lock of her Hair; it was so like, that he had not the power to withstand the desire he had of stealing it: I am going to leave her, said he, I shall see her no more; I sacrifice all my quiet to her Husband: Alas! is not this enough? And may I not without a Crime, search in my Pain a Consolation so innocent as this. He kissed several times this Picture; he put it under his Arm, he carefully hide it, and returning towards her with these Stones, he trembling told her the Resolution he had taken of Travelling. She appeared much amazed at it, and changed her colour. He looked on her at this moment; he had the pleasure of perceiving it; and their Eyes being of Intelligence, spoke more than their Words: Alas! What can oblige you, Don Lewis, said she to him, to leave us? Your Cousin loves you so tenderly; I esteem you; we are never pleased without you; he cannot live from you: Have you not already traveled? You have without doubt some other Reason for your Departure, but at least do not hid it from me. Don Lewis, pierced through with sorrow, could not forbear uttering a deep Sigh, and taking one of the delicate Hands of the Charming Person, on which he fixed his Mouth, Ah, Madam, what do you ask me? said he to her, What can I say to you? And indeed, What can I say to you, in the Condition I am in? The Violence he used, to conceal his Sentiments, caused him such a great Weakness, that he fell half dead at her Feet. She remained troubled and confused at this sight: She obliged him to sit down by her; she dared not lift up her Eyes to look on him; but she let him see Tears, which she could not forbear shedding, nor resolve to conceal from him.  
Scarcely were they come to themselves, when the Marquis entered into the Chamber. He came to embrace Don Lewis with all the Testimonies of a perfect Friendship, and he was in the greatest trouble, when he understood he parted for Naples. He omitted no Arguments to persuade him from it, pressed his stay with the greatest Earnestness, but all in vain. He there immediately took his leave of the Marchioness, and saw her no more. The Marquis went out with him, he left him not till the moment of his Departure. This was an Augmentation of Don Lewis 's Sorrow; he would have willingly remained alone to have an entire Liberty of afflicting himself.  
The Marchioness was sensibly afflicted at this Separation: She had perceived he loved her, before he had known thus much himself; and she had found in him such singular Merit, that for her part too she had loved him without knowing it; but she found this to her Cost after his Departure: Recovering but lately from a dangerous Sickness, of which she was not perfectly cured, this unhappy Accident made her fall into a languishing Indisposition, as soon rendered her quite another body; her Duty, her Reason, her Virtue equally persecuted her: She was greatly sensible of her Husband's Respects to her, and she could not suffer but with great Sorrow, that another should take up her thoughts, and have so great a place in her Affections. She dared not any more mention the Name of Don Lewis; she never made any Inquiries after him; she made it an indispensable Duty to forget him: This Violence which she used on herself, was like a continual Martyrdom; she made one of her Women, in whom she most confided, the Repository of this Secret: Am I not very unhappy? said she, I must wish never again to see a Man, towards whom it is impossible for me to be in a state of Indifference; his Person is always before mine Eyes; nay, I think sometimes I see him in the Person of my Husband; the Resemblance which is between them, serves only to nourish my Affection towards him. Alas! Mariana, I must die, to expiate this Crime, although it be an involuntary one: I have only this means to get rid of a Passion of which I cannot hitherto be Mistress: Alas, what have I not done to stifle it, this Passion which yet is dear to me. She accompanied these Words with a thousand Sighs: She melted into Tears, and though this Woman had a great deal of Wit and Affection to her Mistress, yet she could say nothing to her could yield her any Comfort.  
The Marquis in the mean time, every day reproached his Wife with her Indifferency to Don Lewis: I cannot suffer, said be to her, that you should think so little on the Man I love above all the World, and who had so much Complaisance and Friendship for you: I must needs say, this is a kind of Hardness, which would make one judge untowardly of the Tenderness of your Heart: At least, you must grant, Madam, that he was scarcely gone, but you forgot him. What good would my remembering him do him? said the Marchioness with a languishing Air, Do not you see he avoids us? Would he not have been still with us, if he had any real Kindness for us? Believe me, my Lord, he deserves a little that we should forsake him in our turn. Whatever she could say, repelled not the Marquis; he still importuned her to write to Don Dewis to Return. One Day among the rest, she was gotten into his Closet to speak to him about some Affairs; she found him busied in reading a Letter of Don Lewis, which he lately received.  
She would have retired; but he took this opportunity to oblige her to do what he would have her; he told her very seriously, That he could no longer bear the Absence of his Cousin; that he was resolved to go find him; that 'twas already two Years since he had been gone, without intimating any desire of returning to his Friends and Country; that he was persuaded he would yield a greater Deference to her Requests than his; that he conjured her to write to him: And that in fine, she might choose either to give him this Satisfaction, or be content to see him, part for Naples, where Don Lewis was to make some stay. She remained surprised, and perplexed at this Proposal; but knowing he expected with great Impatience her Determination, What would you have me say to him, my Lord? said she to him with a sorrowful Countenance, Dictate this Letter to me, I will write it; I can do no more; and I believe this is more than I ought The Marquis, transported with Joy, most affectionately embraced her; he thanked her for her Compliance, and made her write these Words:  
IF you have any Kindness for us, defer not your Return; I have very urgent Reasons to desire it. I am not a little concerned that you show such Indifference towards us, which is an unquestionable Indication that you take no Delight in our Company. Return, Don Lewis, I earnestly wish it; I entreat you: And if it were fit for me to use more urgent Terms, I would say, perhaps, I Command you to do it.  
The Marquis made a single Packet of this fatal Letter, 〈◊〉 the end Don Lewis might not think 'twas by his Order the Marchioness had wrote it; and having sent it to the Currier, he expected the Success with extraordinary Impatience. What become of this Lover at the sight of so dear and unexpected an Order! Although he had remarked Dispositions of Tenderness in the Countenance of this fair Person, yet he dared not promise himself she could desire his Return; his Reason revolted against his Joy: How Unhappy a Wretch am I? said he, I Adore the most Amiable of all Women, and yet I dare not offer to please her! she has a Kindness for me, yet Honour and Friendship withhold me from making the least Advantage of it. What shall I do then, O Heavens! What shall I do! I flattered myself, that Absence would Cure me: Alas! this is a Remedy which I have fruitlessly tried; I have never cast mine Eyes on her Picture, but have found myself more in Love, and more Miserable than when I saw her every day. I must obey her, she commands my Return; she desires to see me, and she cannot be ignorant of my Passion: When I took my Leave of her, my Eyes declared to her the Secret of my Heart: And when I call to mind what I saw in hers, all my Reflections then are to no purpose; for I resolve rather to die at her Feet, than to live remote from her.  
He parted without any delay, and without taking leave of his Friends. He left a Gentleman to Excuse him towards them, and to order his Affairs. He was in such great haste to see the Marchioness, that he used such Diligence to be with her, that no body but he could have done: In arriving at Cagliary, Capital of Sardagne, he understood that the Marquis and his Wife were at a stately Countryhouse, where the Viceroy was gone to give them a Visit, with all his Court. He learned moreover, that the Marquis de Barbaran prepared for him a great Feast, where there were to be held Justs or Tournaments, after the Ancient Manner of the Moors: He was the Defendant, and was to maintain, That a Husband beloved, is Happier than a Lover.  
Several Gentlemen that were not of this Opinion, were preparing themselves to go and dispute the Prize, which the Marchioness, at the Vice-Queen's Entreaty, was to give to the Conqueror; 'Twas a Scarf embroidered with her own Hands, wrought with Ciphers: No one was to appear but masked and disguised, to the end all might be freer and more gallant.  
Don Lewis had a secret Despite, in comprehending the Marquis so well satisfied: He is beloved, said he, I cannot but look on him as my Rival, and as an Happy Rival; but we must endeavour to disturb his Happiness, in triumphing over his vain Glory. Having form this Design, he would not appear in Town: he caused to be made a Suit of stripped Green Satin, embroidered with Gold, and all his Liveries were of the same Colour, to denote his new hopes.  
When he entered into the Lists, every body had their Eyes on him; his Magnificence and his Air gave Emulation to the Cavaliers, and great Curiosities to the Ladies. The Marchioness felt a secret Emotion, of which she could not discover the Cause: He was placed very near the Balcony, where she sat with the Vice-Queen; but there was no Lady there which did not lose all her Lustre near that of the Marchioness; her youthful Air, which exceeded not eighteen Years, her lovely white and red Cheeks, her Eyes so sweet and graceful, her Scarlet and little Mouth, agreeable Smiles, and her Shape, which surpassed the Fairest, made her the Admiration of all the World.  
Don Lewis was so ravished in seeing her so charming, and to observe yet in her Countenance a languishing sorrowful Air, that he flattered himself to have therein a part; and this was the first Moment wherein he thought himself Happy. When his turn came, he ran against the Marquis, and smote him so dexterously, that he got the Advantage all along of him: so that in a word, he gained the Prize with a general Applause, and with every one's goodliking. He threw himself at the Marchioness' Feet, to receive it at her Hands; he altered the Tone of his Voice, and speaking to her with his Mask on, low enough not to be heard but only by her: Divine Person, said he to her, be pleased to observe what Fortune decides in favour of Lovers. He dared not say more to her; and without knowing him, she gave him the Prize, with this natural Grace with which all her Actions were accompanied.  
He suddenly withdrew himself, for fear of being known; for this might have been an occasion of Quarrel between the Marquis and him; and without doubt he would not have easily pardoned the Victory he obtained over him. This obliged, him to keep himself still concealed for some Days. The Voiceroy and his Lady returned to Cagliary, and the Marquis and Marchioness accompanied them thither, with the whole Court.  
Don Lewis then showed himself; he pretended he just then arrived, and made as if he knew not what had passed in the Field. The Marquis de Barbaran was transported with Joy in seeing him; and Absence had not at all altered the Affection he had for this dear Relation. He had no difficult task to find a favourable moment wherein to entertain his amiable Marchioness; he had as much liberty in their Lodgings as in his own; and you may well judge, Madam, that he forgot not to mention the Prize he had received from her fair Hands: How wretched am I, said he to her, that you did not know me? Alas, Madam, I flattered myself, that by some secret Pre-sentiments you would learn, that no one but I could sustain with such Passion the Cause of Lovers against Husbands. No my Lord, said she to him, with an Angry and Disdainful Air, to take away all Hope from him, I could never have imagined that you could have been Patron of so foul a Cause; and I could not have believed you could have taken such strong Engagements at Naples, that you should come as far as Sardagne to Triumph over a Friend who maintained my Interests as well as his own. I shall die with Regret, Madam, said Don Lewis, if I have displeased you in what I have done; and were you more favourably disposed, and I might dare to make you my Confident, it would be no hard matter for me to persuade you, that it is not at Naples I have left the Object of my Vows.  
The Marchioness apprehending lest he should speak more than she was willing to hear, and appear livelily touched with the Reproach she made him, she put on a more pleasing Countenance, and turning the Conversation into a Tone of Raillery, answered him, He took too seriously what she had said to him. He dared not make use of this occasion to declare his Love to her; for though he loved her above all things, yet he respected her no less.  
When he had left her, he began to blame himself for his Fearfulness: Shall I, said he, always suffer without seeking any Remedy! It was some time before he could meet with a favourable occasion, because the Marchioness studiously avoided him; but being come one Night where she was, he found her alone in an inward Room, lying on a Bed in a most lovely manner, and most becoming Vndress, her Hair being fastened with Knots of Diamonds, hung carelessly about her Breasts: The Trouble she felt in seeing Don Lewis, appeared on her Countenance, and rendered her yet more lovely: He drew near her with an Awful and respectful Air, fell down on his Knees by her; he looked on her for some time, not daring to speak but becoming a little more bold, If you consider, Madam, said he to her, the piteous Condition whereunto you have reduced me, you will easily comprehend that it is no longer in my power to keep Silence: I could not avoid such inevitable Strokes as you have given me; I have adored you as soon as I saw you: I have endeavoured to Cure myself in flying from you; I have offered the greatest Violence to myself, in endeavouring to master my Passion. You have recalled me, Madam, from my Voluntary Exile, and I die a thousand times a Day, uncertain of my Destiny: If you be Cruel enough to refuse me your Pity, suffer at least, that having made known to you my Passion, I may die with Grief at your Feet. The Marchioness was some time without resolving to answer him; but at length, gaining Assurance, I acknowledge, said she, Don Lewis, that I am not wholly ignorant of one part of your Sentiments, but I was willing to persuade myself 'twas the Effects of an Innocent Affection: Make me not a Partner of your Crime; you commit one, when you betray the Friendship due to my Husband: But, alas, you will pay but too dearly for this; for I know that Duty forbids you to Love me; and in Respect, it does not only forbid me to love you, but to fly from you: I will do it, Don Lewis, I will avoid you; and I do not know, whether I ought not to Hate you: But, alas, it seems impossible to me to do it. What do you then, Madam, answered he, interrupting her, being full of Grief and Despair, when you pronounce the Sentence of my Death? You cannot Hate, me say you: Do you not Hate me, and do you not do me all the Mischief you are able, when you resolve to avoid me? Make an end, Madam, make an end, leave not your Vengeance imperfect; sacrifice me to your Duty, and your Husband; for my Life cannot but be odious, if you take from me the Hopes of pleasing you. She looked on him at this instant with Eyes full of Languishing: Don Lewis, said she to him, you reproach me with what I would deserve. In ending these words, she arose, fearing greatly, lest her Affection should triumph over her Reason; and notwithstanding his endeavours to withhold her, she passed into a Chamber where her Women were.  
She thought she had gained much on herself in forcing her way out of this Conversation, without answering so favourably as her Heart could have wished; but Love is a Seducer, which must not be in any sort harkened to, if one will not be totally overcome by him. From that day Don Lewis began to think himself Happy, though he wanted many things to complete his Felicity. The Marchioness, in effect, had a Principle of Virtue, which opposed itself always with Success to the desires of her Lover.  
He had no longer those Scruples of Friendship for the Marquis de Barbaran which had so greatly disturbed his Mind; Love had perfectly banished Friendship; nay, he even secretly hated him.  
In fine, Don Lewis flattering himself, that perhaps he might find a favourable moment to affect the Marchioness' Heart with some Pity; he carefully sought it; and to find it, one day when 'twas very hot, knowing that the Marchioness was wont to retire to Repose herself after Dinner, as it is customary, in that Country, he came to her, doubting not but every body was asleep in the House.  
She was in a Ground-Room which looked into the Garden; all was fast and shut close, save a little Window, whereby he saw on her Bed this Charming Creature: She was in a profound Sleep, half undressed; he had the time to discover such Beauties as still augmented the force of his Passion. He approached so softly to her, that she did not awake: It was already some moments that he had looked on her with all the Transports of a Man amazed, when seeing her naked Breasts, he could not forbear kissing them. She arose on a sudden; she had not her Eyes open; the Chamber was dark, and she could never have believed Don Lewis could have been so bold. I have already told you, Madam, that he resembled the Marquis de Barbaran; She did not doubt then but it was he, and calling him several times, her dear Marquis and Husband she tenderly embraced him. He well knew his Error; whatever Pleasure it procured him, he could have wished to have owed this only to his Mistress' Favours. But, O Heavens, how unfortunately it happened! The Marquis came in this dangerous moment; and 'twas not without the greatest fury he saw the Liberty Don Lewis took with his Wife. At the noise he had made in entering, she had turned her Eyes towards the Door, and seeing her Husband enter, whom she thought she had already in her Arms, it is impossible to represent her Affliction and Astonishment.  
Don Lewis amazed at this Accident, flattered himself, that perhaps he was not known: He passed immediately into the Gallery, and finding a Window was opened into the Garden, he threw himself out of it, and immediately passed through a Backdoor. The Marquis pursued him, without being able to overtake him: In returning the same way he came, he unhappily found the Marchioness' Picture. which Don Lewis had dropped as he ran; he immediately made most cruel Reflections hereupon: This Picture of his Wife, which Don Lewis had let fall, and the sight of her embracing him, all this made him no longer doubt of his Wife's Falsehood: I am betrayed, Cried he, by her whom I loved dearer than my own Life: Was there ever a more Unhappy Man in the World? In ending these Words, he returned to his Wife's Chamber. She immediately threw herself at his Feet, and melting into Tears, would have justified herself, and make known to him her Innocency; but the Spirit of Jealousy had so fully possessed him, that he violently repressed her: He hearkened only to the Transports of his Rage and Despair, and turning away his Eyes, that he might not see so lovely an Object, he had the Barbarity to strike his Dagger into the Breast of the most Beautiful and most Virtuous Woman in the World. She offered herself to be slaughtered as an innocent Sacrifice, and her Soul issued out in a stream of Blood.  
O God, cried I, O Imprudent Don Lewis! Why did you leave this Charming Lady to the Fury of an Amorous Husband, transported with Jealousy! You might have snatched her out of his cruel Hands. Alas, Madam, replied this Gentleman, he knew not what he did; for what would he have done at another time to have prevented such a Misfortune.  
As soon as the unfortunate Marchioness had rendered her last Breath, her cruel Executioner shut her Apartment, took all the Money and Jewels he had, mounted on Horseback, and fled with all the speed he could. Don Lewis restless, and more Amorous than ever, returned thither in the Evening, notwithstanding whatever might befall him: He was surprised when he was told the Marchioness was still asleep; he immediately went into the Garden, and entered into the Gallery, through the same Window which he had found open, and from thence came into the Chamber: 'Twas so dark, that he was fain to walk warily; when he felt something which had like to have made him fall, he stooped down and found it was a dead Body; he uttered a great Shriek, and doubting not but it was that of his dear Mistress, he sunk down with Grief: Some of the Marchioness' Women walking under the Windows of her apartment, heard Don-Lewis 's Cries; they easily got up through the same Window, and entered the Room. What a sad Spectacle, what a lamentable sight was this? I cannot find Words to denote to you the Horror of this Spectacle, Don Lewis was no sooner come to himself, by the force of Remedies, but his Grief, Rage and Despair, broke out with such Violence, that it was impossible to calm him; and I am persuaded he had not outlived her whose loss he occasioned, if the desire of Vengeance had not reanimated him.  
He parted like one furious in search of the Marquis de Barbaran; He sought him  without hearing any news of him; He ran over Italy, traversed Germany, came into Flanders, and past into France. He was told that the Marquis was at Valentia in Spain; he came there, and met not with him. In fine, three Years being past, without finding the means of sacrificing his Enemy to his Mistress' Ghost, Divine Grace, which is irresistible, and particularly on great Souls, touched his so efficatiously, that he immediately changed his Desire of Revenge into serious Desires of leaving the World, and minding only the fitting himself for another Life.  
Being filled with this Spirit he returned into Sardagnia: He sold all his Estate, which he distributed among some of his Friends, who with great Merit were yet very poor; and by this means became so poor himself, that he reduced himself to the begging of Alms.  
He had heretofore seen, in going to Madrid, a place very fit to make an Hermitage, (it is towards Mount Dragon;) this Mountain is almost inaccessible, and you cannot pass to it but through an Overture, which is in the midst of a great Rock; it is stopped up when the Snow falls, and the Hermitage lies buried more than six Months under it. Don Lewis made one be built here, where he was wont to pass whole Years without seeing any one. He made such Provisions as were necessary, having good Books, and thus remained in this dismal Solitude; but this Year his Friends forced him hither, by reason of a great Sickness, which had like to have cost him his Life. It is four Years since he has led this Holy Spiritual Life, and so different from that to which he was born, that it is with great trouble he sees any of his Acquaintance.  
As to the Marquis de Barbaran, he has wholly left the Isle of Sardagnia, where he has not the Liberty to return. I am informed he is married again at Anvers, to a Widow of a Spaniard named Fonceca.  
And it is he himself that has related to one of my Friends the Particularities of his Crime; and he is so furiously tortured with the remembrance of it, that he imagines he continually sees his Wife dying, and reproaching him with his Fury and Jealousy. In a word, he has contracted such a deep Melancholy, that his Death is thought by every one to be near, or at the least, the loss of his Senses.  
The Gentleman here was silent; and I not being able to forbear weeping at so Tragical a Relation, Don Fernand de Toledo, who had observed it, and would not take notice of it, for fear of interrupting the Relation, rallied me about my Tenderness, telling me how well he was pleased to find me so Compassionate, and that I should not be long before I met with Objects fit to exercise it on. I did not so much mind the returning an Answer to him, as the Thanking this Gentleman, who was pleased to entertain me with the Recital of so extraordinary an Adventure: I entreated him to make my Compliments to Don Lewis, and to give him from me two Pistols, seeing he lived on Alms. Don Fernand, and each of the Cavaliers, gave as much: Here is, said the Gentleman to us, wherewith to enrich the Poor of Victoria; for Don Lewis appropriates not such great Charities as these to himself. We told him, he was the Master, and might dispose of the Money as he pleased. But to return to my Adventures:  
Although I had a Passport from the King of Spain, the best specified, and most general, as is possible, yet I was obliged to take a Billet from the Toll-House; for without this Precaution, all my  had been confiscated: To what purpose then is my Passport? said I to them. To none at all, replied they. The Surveyors and Officers of the Customs would not so much as cast their Eyes on it; they told me, The King must come and assure them, that this Order was from him. It is to no purpose for any one to allege his being a Stranger, and ignorant of the Usages of the Country: For they drily answer, That the Stranger's Ignorance makes the Spaniard 's Profit. The ill weather has kept me here two Days, during which I saw the Governess, and the Play. The principal Place of this Town is adorned with a very fair Fountain standing in the midst: it is encircled with the Town-House, the Prison, two Convents, and several well-built Houses: Here is a New Town and an Old one; every body forsakes this latter to dwell in the other. Here are very rich Merchants; their chief Trade is at St. Sebastian or Bilbo; they send great store of Iron to Grenada, Estremadour, Galicia, and other Parts of the Kingdom. I observed, that the great Streets are set with fine Trees, which are watered with Streams running by them. From Mount St. Adrian hither, it is seven Leagues. In fine, I am just setting out, and must end this long Letter; it is late, and I have spoke, to you so much of what I have seen, that I have said nothing of my Affections to you: Believe me, however, Dear Cousin, that I am, and ever shall be.  
From Victoria, Feb. 24, 1673. Yours.   

LETTER III.  
MY Letters are so long, that it is hard to believe when I finish them, that I have any thing else more to tell you; yet, my dear Cousin, I never close any, but there remains still sufficient for another: When I were only to speak to you of my Friendship, this would be an inexhaustible Subject; you may make some Judgement of it from the Pleasure I find in obeying your Commands. You are desirous to know all the Particulars of my Voyage, I will therefore go on to relate them:  
I set out very late from Victoria, by reason of my stay at the Governess', whom I before mentioned: and we went to lie at Miranda; the Country is very pleasant as far as Avigny; we came afterwerds by a difficult Way to the Banks of the River Vrola, whose. Noise is the greater, in that 'tis full of Rocks, on which the Water dashes, beats up, and falls down, and forms natural Cascades in several places: We continued to ascend the high Mountains of the Pyrenees, where we ran a thousand several Dangers: we saw the ancient Ruins of an old Castle, where Ghosts and Spirits have their Apartments, as well as in that of Quebara, it is near Gargason; and being to stop there to show my Passport, because here certain Customs are paid to the King, I learned from the Alcade of the Borough, who drew near my Litter to talk with me, that it is the common Report of the Country, That there were formerly a King and a Queen here, who had so fine and beautiful a Woman to their Daughter, that she was rather taken for a Goodness than a Mortal Creature: she was called Mira; and it is from her Name came the Mira of the Spaniards, which is to say, Look you; for as soon as ever she appeared, all the People attentively beheld her; and cried out, Mira, Mira; and here's the Etymology of a Word drawn far enough. This Princess was never seen by any Body who became not desperately in love with her; but her Disdainfulness and Indifference made all her Lovers pine away: The famous Basilisk never killed so many People as the Beautiful and Dreadful Mira; she thus depopulated her Father's Kingdom, and all the Countries thereabouts were full of the deceased and dying Lovers. After they had in vain Addressed themselves to her, they lastly applied themselves to Heaven, to demand Vengeance on her Cruelty: The Gods at length grew Angry, and the Goddesses were not much behind them in the Exercise of this Passion: so that to punish her, the Scourges of Heaven finished the Destruction of her Father's Kingdom: In this general Calamity he consulted the Oracle, which told him, That all these Miseries would not have an end, till Maria had expiated the Mischiefs which her Eyes had done: and that she must be gone: That Destiny would conduct her to the place where she was to lose her repose and liberty. The Princess obeyed, believing it impossible for her to be touched with Tenderness: She carried only her Nurse with her; she was clad like a simple Shepherdess, lest she should be taken notice of, whether at Sea or Land. She ran over a great Part of the World, committing every day two or three Dozen of Murders; for her Beauty was not diminished by the Fatigue of her Travels: She arrived at length near this old Castle, which belonged to a young Count, called Nios', endowed with a thousand Perfections, but extreme Proud and Reserved: he spent his time in the Woods; as soon as ever he perceived a Woman, he fled from her, and of all things he saw in the World, she was his greatest Aversion. The beautiful Mira was resting herself one day under the shade of some Trees, when Nios' past by, clothed with a Lion's Skin, a Bow at his Girdle, and a Mace on his Shoulder; his Hair was all clotted together, and his Face be smeared like a Chimney-Sweeper's, (this Circumstance is observable) yet the Princess thought him the most handsome Man in the World; she ran after him as if she had been mad; and he ran from her as if he had been in the same condition: she lost the sight of him; she knew not where to find him: she is now in the greatast Sorrow, weeping Day and Night with her Nurse. Nios' returned to the Chase; she saw him again, and would have followed him: as soon as he perceived her, he did as at first, and Mira betook herself again to her Lamentations; but her Passion giving her new strength, she outran him, stopped him, taking hold of his Locks, entreating him to look on her, thinking this was enough to engage him: He cast his Eyes on her with as much Indifference as if she had been an ordinary Person. Never Woman was more surprised; she would not leave him; she came maugre him to his Castle: where, as soon as she had entered, he there left her, and was no more seen. The poor Mira, being not to be comforted, died with Grief, And from that time you hear deep Sighs and Groans, which come from the Castle of Nios'. The young Wenches of the Country are used to go there, and carry her little Presents of Fruits and Milk, which they set down at the Mouth of a Cave, where no body dare enter: they said, this was to comfort her; but this has been abolished as superstitious. And though I believed not a word of whateever was told me at Garganson, in relation to Mira and Nios, yet I was pleased in the Recital of this Story, of which I omit a thousand Particulars, for fear of tiring you by its length. My Waiting-woman was so affected with this Relation, that she was for having us return back again, to set at the Mouth of the Cave some red Partridges, which my People had brought: she imagined the Princess' Ghost would be mightily comforted in receiving this Testimony of our good Will; but for my part, I thought I should be more content than her, in having those Partridges for my Supper. We passed the River of Vrola, on a great stone-Bridge, and having went over another, with difficulty enough, by reason of the melted Snow, we arrived at Miranda d' Ebro; this is a great Village, or a little Town: here is a large place adorned with a Fountain; the River Ebro, which is one of the most considerable of Spain, traverses it: You see on the Top of a Mountain the Castle, with several Towers; it appears to be of some strength; and there issues out so great a Stream from a Rock on which it is built, that it turns several Mills: I could not observe any thing else worth writing to you.  
The three Knights I spoke of to you, were arrived before me, and given all requisite Orders for Supper; so we eat together: And tho' the Night appeared well advanced, because the Days are short in this Season, yet 'twas not late; so that these Gentlemen, who showed me great Respect and Civility, asked me, How I would pass the time? I proposed to them the playing at Ombre, and that I would go Halves with Don Fernand de Toledo. They accepted the Offer: Don Fernand de Cardonne said, He had rather Converse with me than Play: so the three others begins, and I for some time gave myself over to the looking on them, with great Pleasure, for their Way is quite different from ours: They never utter a word; I do not say, to complain, (for this would be unworthy the Spanish Gravity) but to demand a Gano, or to cut higher, or to show that one may take some other Advantage: In a word, they seem to be Statues, or Pieces of Germane Clockwork, never appearing transported with either good or bad Luck. Among other Discourse which I had with D. Fred. de Cardonne, he told me, There were two observable things in Catalonia, one of which is a Mountain of Salt, partly white as Snow, and the other part clearer and more transparent than Crystal: that there is Blue, Green, Violet, Orange, and a thousand different Colours, which yet loses its tincture when wetted; it continually forms itself, and grows there: and though commonly the places where Salt is to be found, are so barren, that you see not so much as an Herb, yet there are here Pinetrees of great height, and excellent Vine-yards: When the Sun darts its Rays on this Mountain, it looks as if it wholly consisted of the most precious Stones in the World: but the best of it is, that it yields a good Revenue.  
The other Particular he mentioned to me, was of a Fountain, whose Water is very good, and of the same Colour as Claret: I have never heard any thing of this, said I to him, but one of my Relations, who has been in Catalonia, has assured me there is a Fountain near Balut, whose Water is as others are for Colour, and yet whatever you put therein, appears like Gold. I have seen it, Madam, continued Don Frederic; and I remember a Man that was very covetous, and more foolish, went thither every Day to put therein his Silver, hoping in time 'twould be changed into Gold: but he was so far from enriching himself that he was ruined; for some Peasants, more subtle and crafty than he, having perceived what he did, stood watching a little lower, and the Stream of the Water would now and then bring some Pieces to them. If you return into France by Catalonia, added he, you will see this Fountain, It is not that which can draw me thither, replied I, but the desire of passing by Montferat, would make me undertake a longer Journey. It is situated, said he, near Barcelona, and is a place of great Devotion: It seems as if the Rock were sawed through the middle; the Church stands high, is small and obscure. By the help of Fourscore and Ten Lamps of Silver, you perceive the Image of the Virgin, which looks very duskish, and is held for Miraculous. The Altar cost Philip the Second thirty thousand Crowns; and here is every Day seen Pilgrims from all Parts of the World; this Holy Place abounds with Hermitages, inhabited by Persons of great Devotion: These are commonly Men of good Birth, who have not left the World till they have well tried it, and who appear much taken with the Sweets of their Retirements, though the Place be dismal; and 'twould been impossible to have had Access to it, had not a Passage been cut through the Rocks. Yet you find here several agreeable Objects, a curious Prospect, various Springs, Gardens well dressed by these Religioses own hands, and every where a certain Air of Solitude and Devotion, which mightily affects those who come there. We have another famous place of Devotion, added he, and that is Nuestra Senora del pillar: it is at Saragossa, in a Chapel on a Pillar of Marble, where our Lady holds the Babe Jesus in her Arms. It is pretended, that the Virgin appeared on this same Pillar to St. James; and the Image is here worshipped with great Reverence. It cannot be well observed, because it stands so high, and in a very dark place; so that without the Flambeaux it could not be seen at all. Here are always Fifty Lamps burning; Gold and precious Stones shine here on all sides; and the Pilgrims come here in great Shoals. But yet, says he, I may truly say, in favour of Saragossa that 'tis one of the finest Towns you shall see; it is situated along the Ebre, in a vast Field, is adorned with great Buildings, rich Churches, a stately Bridge, fine open Places, and the most charming Women in the World, who love French, and will omit nothing to oblige you to speak well of 'em, if you pass by there. I told him, I had already heard several things spoken of them to their commendation: But continued I, this Country is very Barren, and the Soldiers can hardly subsist in it. In effect, replied he, whether the Air be bad, or that they want Necessaries, the Flemings and Germans cannot live there? and if they do not die there, 'tis because they run away. The Spaniards and Neopolitans are more prone than they to desert; these last past through France, to return into their Country; the others Coast the Pyrences along Languedoc, and enter Castille by Navarre, or Biscaye. This is a Course which the old Soldiers fail not to steer; for the new-raised ones, they perish in Catalonia, being not accustomed thereto; and 'tis certain there's no place where War is more troublesome to the King of Spain: He maintains his Forces here with great Charge, and the Advantage which the Enemy gains of him is not small; and I very well know they are more sensible at Madrid for the smallest Loss in Catalonia, than they would be for the greatest in Flanders, or Milan, or elsewhere. But at present, continueth he, we are going to be more at our Ease than we have been, being expected at Court, that the Peace will be lasting, because they talk much of a Marriage which will make a new Alliance; and the Marquis de Los Balbares, Penipotentiary at Nimiguen, has received Orders to pass speedily to France, to demand of that King, Mademoiselle d' Orleans; therefore it is not doubted but the Marriage will be concluded: But it is thought very strange, Don John of Austria should consent to this Marriage. You will do me a singular Pleasure, said I, interrupting him, if you would inform me of some Particularities touching this Prince: It is natural for to have a Curiosity in relation to Persons of this Character; and when a body comes into a Court where one was never before, that I may not appear a Novice, I should have some previous Notices. He answered me, It would be a great satisfaction to him, if he could relate any thing might please me; and he began thus:  
You will not, perhaps, Madam, think it amiss, that I begin at the Original of Things, and tell you, That this Prince was Son of one of the finest Women in Spain, named Maria Calderona; she was a Player; and the Duke de Medina de las Torres, became desperately in love with her: This Cavalier had so many Advantages above others, that Calderonna loved him no less than she was beloved by him. In the Heat of this Intrigue, Philip the Fourth saw her, and preferred her to one of the Queen's Maids of Honour, and who was so grieved at this Change of the King, whom she really loved, and had a Son by, that she retired from the World, and betook herself to Los del Calsas Reales, where she put on the Religio's Habit. As for Calderonne, her inclination lying wholly towards the Duke de Medina, she would not hearken to the King, without the Duke would thereto consent: She spoke to him of it, and offered to withdraw secretly where he would; but the Duke fearing to incur the King's Displeasure, answered her, He was resolved to yield up to His Majesty a Treasure which he was not in a Capacity to contend for. She made him a thousand Reproaches for this; she called him Traitor to his Love, ingrateful towards his Mistress: And moreover, told him, That though he was so Happy as that he could dispose of his Heart as he pleased, yet she could not do the same; and therefore he must continue to visit her, or prepare to see her die with Despair. The Duke affected with so great a Passion, promised to feign a Journey to Andalousia, and to remain with her hid in a Closet: he effectually parted from the Court, and afterwards shut himself up (as it was agreed) whatever Risque he ran by so imprudent Conduct. The King, in the mean time, was very Amorous, and remained very well satisfied: She had, during this, Don John d' Austria, and the Resemblance he had with the Duke de Medina de Las Torres, had made it be thought that he was his Son; but tho' the King had other Children, and particularly the Bishop of Malaga, good Fortune decided in his Favour, and he has been only acknowledged.  
Don John 's Friends say, That 'twas by reason of the Exchange which had been made of the Son of Calderonna, for the Son of Queen Elizabeth; and here's how they set forth this Change, which is a Story made on purpose to impose on the World, and which I believe has no ground of Truth: They pretend, the King being desperately in love with this Player, she became big with Child at the same time as the Queen; and seeing the King's Passion was so greatly towards her, that she might expect any thing, she so ordered it, that she made him promise her, That if the Queen had a Son, and she likewise, he should put hers in his place: What will you lose by this, Sir? said she, Will it not be your Son that will still Reign, only with this difference, that loving me, as you say you do, you will love him likewise the better. She had Wit, and the King could deny her nothing; he consented, and in effect the Business was managed with that Address, that the Queen being brought to Bed of a Son, and Calderonna of another, the Exchange was made. He that should have Reigned, and who bore the Name of Baltazar, died at the Age of fourteen Years: The King was told, 'twas with over-heating himself at Tennis; but the truth is, this Prince was suffered to keep bad Company, which procured him his Misfortunes; it is said likewise, That Don Pedro d' Arragon, his Governor, and Chief Gentleman of his Chamber, more contributed to this than any other, suffering him to bring into his Apartment a Woman he loved; after this he was taken with a violent Fever, and concealed the Occasion: The Physicians, who were ignorant of it, thought to ease him by frequent Bleedings, which put an end to what strength he had; and by this means they ended his Life. The King knowing, but too late, what had happened, banished Don Pedro for not hindering this Excess, or for not having timely discovered it.  
In the mean time Don John of Austria, who was brought up as the Natural Son, changed not his Condition, though this aught to have been, had he been indeed the lawful Son; yet notwithstanding this, his Creatures affirm, He so exactly resembles Q. Elizabeth, that she needs no other Picture of her Likeness. And this Opinion fails not of gaining Belief with the People, who run violently after Novelties, and who so passionately loved this great Queen, that they bewail her still as if she was but now deceased. It is true, that if Don John of Austria would make his Advantage of the favourable Dispositions of the People, he has met with several Opportunities of extending his Fortune very far; but his only Aim is to serve the King, and to keep his Subjects in those Sentiments of Fidelity they ought to have for him.  
To return to Calderonna: The King surprised one day the Duke de Medina with her, and in the excess of his Rage, he ran to him with his Poniard in his Hand; he was about to kill him, when this Woman placed herself between, telling him, He might strike her if he would. Having the most extreme Passion for her, he could not but Pardon him, contenting himself only with banishing him: But understanding she continued to love him, and write to him, he studied only how to get a new Passion; when he had one strong enough not to apprehend the Charms of Calderonna, he sent word to her to retire into a Monastery, as is customary when the King forsakes his Mistress. She put it not off, writing a Letter to the Duke, to bid him Adieu: And she received the Veil of a Religio from the Hand of the Apostolic Nuncio, who became since Innocent X. It is very likely the King believed Don John was his real Son, seeing he loved him so dearly: One thing will appear to you very singular, which is, that a King of Spain having Natural Sons owned by him, they never entered Madrid during his Life: So Don John was brought up at Ocanna, which is some Leagues distant from it. The King, his Father, came oft thither, and he made him come even to the Gates of the Town, where he went to meet him. This Custom comes from that the Grandees of Spain dispute the Rank which these Princes would hold. Don John, before he went into Catalonia, remained commonly at Buen Retiro, which is a Royal Seat, at one of the farthest parts of Madrid, a little without the Gate: And he showed himself so little, that he was never seen at any Public Feast during the Life of the late King: but since, Times have changed, and his Fortunes stand on a different bottom.  
Whilst the Queen, Maria Ann of Austria, Sister to the Emperor, and the King's Mother, Governed Spain; and her Son was not yet of Age to hold the Reigns of the State. She would have always Don John keep from the Court; and moreover, found herself so capable of Governing, that she had a mind to ease her Son for a long time of the Burden of Ruling. She was not troubled to see him ignorant of whatever might give a desire of Reigning: but though she brought the greatest Precautions, to hinder him from feeling he was under too strict a Tutelage, and suffered no Persons to come near him, but those she was well assured of; yet this hindered not but some of the King's Faithful Servants hazarded themselves, by giving him to understand what he might do for his Liberty. He followed the Advice was given him; and in fine, having taken Measures accordingly, he stole away one Night, and went to Buen Retiro. He as soon sent from thence an Order to the Queen his Mother, not to stir out of the Palace.  
Don John is of a middle Stature, well shaped, Black, and lively Eyes, and a most Manly Countenance. He is Polite, Generous, and very Brave. He is ignorant of nothing befitting his Birth, being well-verst in all Arts and Sciences. He writes and speaks very well five Languages, and understands yet more. He has for a long time studied Judicial Astrology. There is no Instrument which he cannot make, and use with the best Masters. He works on all kind of Mechanics, makes Arms, and paints finely. He took a great Pleasure in the Mathematics; but being charged with the Government of the State, he has been obliged to lay aside all other Employments.  
He came to Buenretiro in the beginning of the Year 1677. and as soon as he was there, he sent the Queen-Mother to Toledo, because she had declared against him, and hindered his return to the King. Don John had an extreme Joy in receiving from the King's own Hand an Order to take Care of Every thing, and to manage the Affairs of the Kingdom: And 'twas not without occasion he discharged himself on him, seeing he then was ignorant of the Art of Reigning. It was alleged for a Reason of his slow Education, That the King his Father was dying when he gave him Life: That when he came into the World, they were fain to put him in a Box of Cotten, being so tender and small, that he could not be swaddled: That he was brought up in the Arms, and on the Knees of the Ladies of the Palace, till he was Ten Years old, without putting his Foot once all this while on the Ground to walk: That in the Sequel the Queen his Mother, who was engaged by all the Ties of Natural Duty to preserve this only Heir of the Spanish Branch, fearing to lose him, dared not let him study, lest by two great an Application he should lose his Health, which in truth was very unsound: And 'twas observed, that the great Number of Women, with whom the King always was, and who too sharply reprehended him for his Faults which he committed, had inspired him with such a great Aversion to them, that as soon as ever he had notice a Lady stayed for him in any place he was to pass, he stole another way, or kept himself shut up all day in his Chamber. The Marchioness de Luz Veles, who was his Governess, told me, she waited for an Opportunity full six Months to speak with him, and when Chance had brought them avoidable to him, he took, their Requests from their Hands, but turned his Head another way, for fear he should see them. His Health is since so increased, that his Marriage with the , the Emperor's Daughter, having been broke off by Don John, by reason 'twas the Queen-mothers' Project, he has desired to marry Mademoiselled ' Orleans. The Circumstances of the Peace which are lately concluded at Nimiguen, made him cast his Eyes towards this Princess, with whose excellent Qualities, Madam, you are better acquainted than I  
It is hard to believe, that having Dispositions so far from Gallantry, he should become so suddenly and vehemently in love with the Queen, as he became on the only Rehearsal of her good Qualities, and at the sight of her Picture in Minature, which was showed him. He never lets it go out of his Hand; he always holds it to his Heart; He Dialogues with it so prettily, as astonishes all the Courtiers; for he speaks a Language he never spoke: His Passion for the Princess furnishes him with a thousand Thoughts, which he dares not entrust any body with. He thinks no body makes haste enough; and therefore sends fresh Curriers every day to carry his Billets doux, and bring hack News of her.  
When you come to Madrid, added he, you will hear, Madam, several Particulars which have without doubt happened since I was there, and which will perhaps more satisfy your Curiosity than what I have related to you. I am very much obliged to you, answered I, for your Civilities; but do me the Favour to oblige me farther, in giving me the true Character of the Spaniards: You know them, and I am persuaded nothing has escaped your Inquiries; You speaking to me without Passion and Interest, I may reckon myself sure of what you tell me. Why believe you, Madam, replied he smiling, that I shall speak to you more sincerely than another? There are Reasons which may render me suspected: They are my Masters; I must manage them; And if I be not Politic enough to do it, the Vexation of being constrained to obey them, would tempt me to entertain Notions in their Respect contrary to Truth. However it be, said I, interrupting him, pray tell me what you know of them.  
The Spaniards, said he, have always past for Fierce and Glorious: This Glory is mixed with Gravity; and they carry it so far, that one may call it an extravagant Pride: They are Brave, without being Rash; yet they are accused for not being daring enough; They are Choleric, Revengeful, without showing any Transport, Liberal without Ostentation, Sober in their Diet, very Presumptuous in Prosperity, too Rampant in Adversity: They Idolise Women; they are so prepossessed in their Favour, that they show no Discretion in the Choice of their Wives: They are Patient to Excess, Obstinate, Idle, Singular, Philosophisers: And as to the rest, Men of Honour, keeping their Words, tho' it cost 'em their Lives. They have a great deal of Wit and Vivacity, easily comprehend, explain themselves in the same manner, and in few Words; They are Prudent, Jealous without measure, Disinterested, bad Oeconomists, Close, Superstitious, great Catholics, at least in appearance: They are good Poets, and writ Verses with great Facility. They would be capable of Nobler Sciences, would they vouchsafe to apply themselves thereto.  
They have a Greatness of Soul, Elevated Wit, Constancy, a Natural Seriousness, and a Respect for Ladies, as is not seen elsewhere: They have a Set-Behaviour, full of Affectation, intoxicated with their own Merit, hardly ever in this Particular doing Right to that of others. Their Bravery consists in standing Valiantly on the Defensive Part, without giving Ground, and without dreading Danger; but they love not to seek it, which proceeds from their great Judgement: They discern Danger, and avoid it. Their greatest Defect, in my Opinion, is the Passion of Revenge and the Means they use for this: Their Maxims hereupon are absolutely opposite to Christianity and Honour: When they have received an Affront, they make him be Assassinated who has offered it. They are not contented with this; for they cause them to be Assassinated likewise whom they have offended, in the Apprehension of being prevented, knowing well, that if they do not kill, they shall be killed themselves. They pretend to justify themselves herein, when they say, That their Enemy having took the first Advantage, they ought to secure themselves of the secend: That should they fail herein, they would wrong their Reputation: That you must not fight with a Man that has insulted over you, but put yourself in a Condition to punish him, without running half the Danger. It is true, that Impunity Authorises this Conduct; for the Privilege of Churches and Convents in Spain, is to give an assured Retreat to Criminals; And as near as they can, they commit these Villainies hard by a Sanctuary, no have the less way to an Altar; Which you see oft embraced by a Villain, with his Poniard reeking in his Hand, and be-smeared with the Blood of the Murder which he has committed.  
As to their Persons, they are very lean, little, fine shape, comely Head, good Faces, fine Eyes, well-set Teeth, yellow and duskish Complexion; they will have one walk slowly, commend big Legs, and a little Foot, Shoes without Heels, parting the Hair on both sides, being straight cut, and kept behind their Ears with a great Two-handed Hat, an Habit always Black, instead of a Shirt, Taffety Sleeves, or black Tabby, a Sword of a strange length, with a black Freeze Cloak over all this, very straight Breeches, hanging Sleeves, and a Poniard. All this must so dis-figure a Man, let him be otherwise never so well-shaped, that they seem to affect a Garb the most disagreeable; And one's Eyes cannot with any Complacency accustom themselves to this fight.  
Don Frederick would have continued on his Discourse, and I had so much pleasure in hearing him, that I would not have interrupted him; but he broke off himself, having observed that the Play was at an end, and considering, that we were to set out early next Morning, he thought I might be desirous of retiring; he therefore with the other Gentlemen, bade me good Night. I risen in effect very soon next Morning, because 'twas a great Journey to Birbiesca, where we intended to lie. We followed the River to avoid the Mountains, and past at Oron, a great River, which falls into the Ehre. We a while after entered into so straight a Way, that our Litters could scarce pass: We ascended along, a very straight Coast to Pancorvo, whose Castle I saw standing on a raised Ground, not far distant: We traversed a great Plain; and this was a Novelty to us, to see an even Country: This here is surrounded with several Mountains, which seem linked together as a Chain, and especially those of Occa: We must again pass over a little River, before we can come to Birbiesca: This is only a Borough, which has nothing remarkable but its College, and some few pleasant Gardens along the Water. But I may say, we came thither in worse Wether than any we had yet: I was so tired, that as soon as I arrived I went to Bed: so that I saw not Don Fernand de Toledo, and the other Gentlemen, till the next Day, at castle de Peones. But I should tell you how one is served in these Inns, they being all alike: When you come into one of them, wearied and tired, roasted by the heat of the Sun, or frozen by the Snows (for there is seldom any Temperament between these Two Extremes), you see neither Pot on the Fire, nor Plates washed: You enter into the Stable, and from thence to your Chamber; this Stable is ordinarily full of Mules and Muletteers, who make use of their Mules Saddles for Pillows in the night, and in the daytime they serve 'em for Tables: They eat very friendly with their Mules, and are very good Company together.  
The Staircase by which you go up is very straight, and does rather resemble a sorry Ladder: Lafoy Sennoro de la Casa receives you with her Gown tucked up, and her dangling Sleeves; she takes time to put on her Sunday-Cloathes, whilst you get out of your Litter: and she never omits this; for they are all very Poor and Vain Glorious. You are showed a Chamber, whose Walls are white enough, hung with a thousand little scurvy Pictures of Saints; the Beds are without Curtains, the Covertures of Cotton, the Sheets as large as Napkins, and the Napkins like Pocket-hankerchiefs; and you must be in some considerable Town to find four or five of them; for in other places there are none, no more than there are Forks: They have only a Cup in the House; and if the Mule-Drivers get first hold of it, which commonly happens, if they please, (for they are served with more Respect than those whom they bring) you must stay patiently till they have done with it, or drink out of an Earthen Pitcher. It is impossible to warm one at the Kitchin-fire, without being choked, for they have no Chimneys; and 'tis the same in all the Houses on the Road; there is an Hole made in the top of the Ceiling, and the Smoke goes out thence; the Fire is in the midst of the Kitchen: They put what you would have roasted on Tiles, and when 'tis well griled on one side, they turn the other: when 'tis gross Meat, they fasten it to a String, and so let it hang on the Fire, and turn it with their Hands; so that the Smoke makes it so black, that it would turn one's Stomach to look on it.  
I think there cannot be a better Representation of Hell than these sort of Kitchins, and the Persons in them; for not to speak of this horrible Smoke, which blinds and chokes one, they are a Dozen of Men, and as many Women, blacker than Devils, nasty and stinking like Swine, and clad like Beggars. There are always some of 'em impudently grating on a sorry Guiter, and singing like a Cat a roasting. The Women have all of 'em their Hair about their Ears, and you would take 'em for Bedlamites; they have Glass Necklaces, which hang twisted about their Necks like Ropes of Onions, but however serve to cover the Nastiness of their Skin. They are as great Thiefs as any are in jails, and they are urgent to serve you only to have an opportunity to steal something of you, though it be but a Pin.  
Before all things, the Mistress of the House brings you her little Children, who are bareheaded in the midst of Winter, though but of a Day old: she makes 'em touch your , she rubs their Eyes with them, their Cheeks, Throat, and Hands. This seems as if one was become a Relic, and could heal all Diseases. These Ceremonies over, you are asked, If you will eat any thing; and though at Midnight, you must send to the Butchery, the Market, the Tavern, the Bakers; in fine, to all parts of the Town, to gather wherewith to make a sorry Meal. For though the Mutton here be very tender, their way of frying it with Oil, is not to every Bodies Relish. Here are great store of Partridges, and those very large; they are not very fat, but dry; and to make 'em drier, they roast 'em to a Coal. The Pigeons here are excellent; and in seve-places here is good Fish, especially Bessugosses, which have the taste of a Trout, and of which they make Pasties, which would be good, were they not stuffed with Garlic, Saffron, and Pepper. Their Bread is white enough, and sweet, that one would think it made up with Sugar; but it is ill wrought, and so little baked, that it is as heavy as Led in the Stomach: it has the shape of a flat Cake, and is not much thicker than one's Finger. The Wine is good, and Fruits in their season, especially Grapes, which are very large, and of delicate taste. You may reckon yourself certain of a good Desert. You have Salads here of such good Lettuce as the World cannot afford better.  
Do not think (Dear Cousin) 'tis sufficient to say, Go fetch such things, to have them; for not very seldom you can meet with nothing: But supposing you find what you would have, you must give out your Money beforehand: so that your Meat is paid for before you have begun to eat it; for the Master of the Inn is only allowed to Lodge you: they allege for a Reason, That it is not just one only Person should go away with all the Profit from Travellers, it being better the Money should be dispersed.  
You enter not any Inn to Dine, but carry your Provision with you, and stop at the Bank of some River, where the Mule-Drivers bate their Mules; and this is with Oats or Barley, with chopped Straw, which they carry with them in great Sacks; for as to Hay they give them 'em none. It is not allowed a Woman to tarry above two Days in an Inn on the Road, unless she can offer good Reasons. And here's enough in relation to Inns, and the Manner of your Treatment therein.  
After Supper these Gentlemen played at Ombre, and I not being strong enough to play against them, I went shares with Don Frederic de Cardonne; and Don Fernand drew near the Fireside to me; he told me, He could, have wished my time would permit me to pass by Vailladolid; that it is the most pleasant Town of Old Castille, it having been for a great while the Mansion of the Kings of Spain; and that they have a Palace there fit for them. That as to him, he had Relations there would be infinitely pleased to entertain me; and would show me the Dominicans Church, which the Dukes of Lerma have founded; that it was very Stately, and the Portal of singular Beauty, by means of the Figures and Embossed Work, which every it: That in the College of the same Convent the French see there, with great satisfaction, all the Walls full of Flower de Luce's; it being said, a Bishop who defended on the King of France, had been at the Charge of Painting them. He added, They would have carried me to the Religioses of St. Claire, to show me in the Choir of their Church, the Tomb of a Castillan Knight, whence 'tis said, issues out Accents and Groans every time any of his Family are near their Deaths. I smiled at this, as being doubtful of the Truth of such kind of Relations: You give not Credit to what I say, continued he, neither would I engage for the Truth of it, though all the Country thereabouts are so fully persuaded of it, that you would be suspected for an Heretic should you question it. But it is certain there is a Bell in Arragon, in a small Town called Villilla, on the Ebre, which is about fifty Foot compass, and it happens sometimes to sound of itself, it being not perceivable to be agitated by any Wounds or Earthquakes: In a word, by no visible thing. It first Tolls, and afterwards, by intervals, Rings, out, as well in the Day as the Night: When it is heard, it is not doubted but it denounces some sad Accident; which is what happened in 1601, on Thursday the 13th of June, till Saturday the 15th of the same Month; it ceased then to Ring, but it began again on Corpus Christi, when they were on the point of making the Procession. It was heard likewise when Alphonsus the Fifth, K. of Arragon, went into Italy to take Possession of the Kingdom of Naples. It was hard at the Death of Charles the Fifth. It denoted the Departure of Don Sebastion, King of Portugal, for afric. The Extremity of King Philip the Second: and the Decease of his last Wife Q. Ann. You would have me to believe you, Don Fernand, said I; Perhaps I shall seem too obstinate in standing out all this while, but you will agree there are Matters one may lawfully doubt of. Nay, Madam, replied he, with a pleasant Air, I tell you nothing but what I can have a thousand Witnesses to justify; but perhaps you will sooner believe Don Esteve de Carvajal in a thing as extraordinary in his Country. He at the same time called to him, demanding of him, Whether 'twere not true, that there is in the Convent of Cordoüa a Clock which fails not to Ring every time a Religious is to die; so that the time is known to a Day? Don Esteve confirmed what Don Fernand said: and though I remained not absolutely convinced, yet I made a show as if I was.  
You pass so quickly through Old Castille, continued Don Fernand, that you will not have time to see what's most remarkable: The Picture of the Blessed Virgin is talked of far and near, which was found miraculously stamped on a Rock; it belongs to the Religio's Augustine's d' Avila, and several Persons go there out of Devotion; but one has no less Curiosity to see certain Mines of Salt, which are near there, in a Village called Mengraville; you defend above two hundred Steps under Ground, and then enter into a vast Cavern formed by Nature, whose Top, or Roof, is upheld by one only Pillar of Chrystalin Salt, of astonishing Largeness and Colour. Near this place, in the Town of Soria, you see a great Bridge without a River, and a great River without a Bridge, the River being forced out of its place by an Earthquake.  
But if you go as far as Medina deal Campo, added he, I am sure the Inhabitants will give you a welcome Entrance, only because you are of the French Nation, whom they much affect, to distinguish themselves hereby from the Sentiments of the other castilians: Their Town is so privileged, that the K. of Spain has not the Power to create any Officers, nor the Pope to confer Benefices: this Right belongs to the Townsmen, and they often fall together by the Ears, in the choosing of their Magistrates and ecclesiastics.  
One of the Rarities of this Country is the Aquaduct of Segovia, which is five Leagues in length; it has above two hundred Arches of extraordinary height, tho' in several places there are two standing one on another; and 'tis all built on Free Stone, there having been no Mortar, or any Cement to join them: This is looked on as one of the Romans Works, or at least as worthy to be so. The River which is at the end of the Town surrounds the Castle, and serves it for a Ditch; it is built on a Rock. Among several things remarkable, you see the Effigies of the Kings of Spain, who have Reigned for several Years: And there is no Town but Segovia and Sevill where Money is Coined, and the Pieces of Eight which are made at the former Places are held to be the best; and this is by means of the River which turns certain Mills that stamp the Money. Here are likewise most curious Walks along a Meadow planted with Elm Trees, whose Leaves are so thick and large, that the greatest Heats of the Sun cannot pierce them. I want not Curiosity, said I to him, for all things which deserve it; but I at present want Time to see them: However, I should be very glad to arrive timely at Burgos, to view the Town. Which is to say, Madam, replied Don Fernand, we must lose your Company, and let you retire.  
He gave notice thereof to the other Gentlemen, who gave over their Play, and we thus separated.  
I risen this Morning before Day; and I end this Letter at Burgos, where I now arrived: Thus, Dear Cousin, I shall send you nothing of this Day, but shall take the first occasion to acquaint you with what befalls me.  
From Burgos, Feb. 27, 1673. Yours.   

LETTER. iv  
WE could sensibly perceive in arriving at Burgos, that this Town is colder than any of those we passed; and 'tis likewise said, you have none of those excessive Heats which are intolerable in other Parts of Spain: The Town stands where you descend the Mountain, and reaches to the Plain as far as the River, which washes the foot of the Wall: the Streets are very straight and even: the Castle is not great, but very strong, and is seen on the top of the Mountain: A little lower is the Triumphant Arch of Fernando Gonsales, which the Curious do much admire. This Town was the first that was conquered from the Moors; and the Kings of Spain have long resided here; 'tis the Capital of Old Castille; it holds the first Rank in the two States of the two Castilles, although Toledo disputes it with her: You see her fine Buildings; and Velascoe's Palace is very stately. Here are in all the broad Streets and spacious Places, Fountains, with Statues, some of which are good Pieces; but the finest sight is the Cathedral, which is so large, that Mass is said in five several places of it, without any disturbance to each other: the Architecture is so tightly wrought, that it may pass among the Gothick Buildings for a Masterpiece of Art: and this is so much the more remarkable, in that they build very sorrily in Spain: in some places this is so through Poverty, and in others want of Stone and Lime: I am told, that even at Madrid you see Houses of Earth, and the finest are made with Brick, cemented with the same, for want of Lime. To pass from the Town to the Suburbs of Bega, you go over three Stone Bridges: the Gate which answers that of Santa Maria, stands high, with the Image of the Virgin upon it: this Suburb contains the greatest part of the Convents and Hospitals; there is a great one founded by Philip the Second, to receive the Pilgrims which go to St. James, and which entertains them for a Day. The Abbey of Miile Flores, whose Building is very stately, is not far distant. You see here in this Suburb several Gardens which are watered with Fountains and pleasant Springs; the River serves for a Channel: And you find in a great Park enclosed with Walls, pleasant Walks at all times of the Year.  
I would have seen the Crucifix in the Augustine's Convent; it is placed in a Chapel of the Cloister, large and dark enough, so that you could hardly discern it, were it not for the Lamps, which are continually burning, they're above an hundred; some are of Gold, and others of Silver, of so extraordinary a size, that they cover all the Vault of this Chapel: there are sixty Silver Candlesticks of a length, exceeding the tallest Man, and so heavy that two Men cannot lift 'em: they stand on the ground on both sides of the Altar; those which are upon it are of Massy Gold: You see between 'em two Crosses of the same, set out with Precious Stones, and Crowns hanging over the Altar, adorned with Pearls and Diamonds of great Lustre; The Chapel is hung with Tapestry, wrought with Gold; it is so laden with rich Gifts, that there's hardly room to put 'em in, so that part of 'em are kept in the Treasury.  
The Holy Crucifix stands on the Altar, near the natural bigness, it is covered with three Curtains one on another, all embroidered with Pearls and Diamonds: When they open them, which is not done without great Ceremony, and for Persons of Quality, several Bells are rung, every one falls on his Knees: and it must be granted, that this place and sight strikes one with an Awful Regard: The Crucifix is of Carved Work, and cannot be better made; its Carnation is very natural; it is covered from the Breasts to the Feet with a fine Linen, in several Foulds or Pleats, which makes it look like a lose Jerkin, which in my Opinion, is not over-agreeable.  
It is commonly held, that Nicodemus made it; but those who are for making every thing Miraculous, will have it brought down from Heaven, they know not how nor when. I was told, certain Monks of this Town had once stole it, and conveyed it away; but it took a convenient time to give 'em the slip, and was found the next Morning in the Chapel, in its usual place: These honest People being enraged, that it should serve 'em such a Trick, mustered up their Forces, and violently laid Hands on't the second time, but to as little purpose; for 'twould by no means stay with 'em: However, it works Miracles, and is one of the chief Objects of Devotion in Spain: The Religious tell you, it sweats every Friday.  
I was going into my Inn, when we saw the Sieur de Cardonne's Valet de Chambre, running as fast as he could after us; he was booted, and three Friars scouring after him: I was overrash in my Judgement; for I could not but think he had stole something in this rich Chapel, and was taken in the Fact; but his Master, who was with me, having demanded of him, What put him on such full speed; He answered, He went into the Chapel of the Holy Crucifix with his Spurs on, and the Friars had kept him in custody, to get Money of him, but that he was gotten out of their Clutches, but they were now upon the Hunt for him. They make it a Forfeit, as well as others, for a Man to go with Spurs into these Holy Places.  
The Town is not very great; it is adorned with a spacious Place; here are high Pillars which bear up very fine Lodgings. The Bull-Feasts are kept here; for the People are much delighted with this sort of Divertisement. There is also a very well-built Bridge, long and large: the River which passes under it baths a Meadow, on the Bank of which you see Allies of Trees, which form a most delicious Walk. Trade was heretofore considerable, but it is of late much diminished. The best castilian is here spoken; and the Men are naturally Soldiers, so that when the King has need of them, he finds here great Numbers, and better Men than elsewhere.  
After Supper our Company set to Play, as heretofore: Don Sancho Sanniento was for yielding his place to any one, pretending 'twas his Right to entertain me this Evening. I knew he had lately returned from Sicily; I asked him, whether he had been one of those who had helped to Chastise those Rebellious People? [Alas, Madam, said he, the Marquis de Las Navas was sufficient to punish them beyond what their Crime deserved: I was at Naples, in the design to pass into Flanders, where I have Relations of the same Name. The Marquis de Los Veles, Viceroy of Naples, engaged me to leave my first Project, and embark myself with the Marquis de Las Navas, whom the King sent into Sicily: We set Sail in two Vessels of Majorca, and arrived at Messina the sixth of January. Having sent no notice of his coming, and no body expecting it, he was not received with the Honours paid commonly to the Vice-Roys: But in truth, his Intentions were so cruel against these poor People, that his Entrance should have been made in Tears.  
Scarcely was he arrived, but he clapped up the two Sheriffs in Prison, named Vicenzo Zuffo, and Don Diego: He put Spaniards in their Places; he rigorously abolished the College of Knights of the Star; and began to execute the Orders which Gonzaga had long received, and which he had eluded through Favour or Weakness. He immediately published an Order, by which the King changed all the Form of Government of Messina, deprived the Town of its Revenues, forbade its bearing for the future the Glorious Title of Exemplary, dissolved the Senate, and put into the place of six Sheriffs, six Officers, two of which should be Spaniards; that these Officers should not for the future appear in Public with their Formalities; that they should no more be preceded by Drums and Trumpets, ride no more together in a Coach with four Horses, as they were wont; that they should fit henceforward on a plain Bench; should have no more Incense offered 'em in the Churches; go clothed after the Spanish Fashion; should Assemble on Public Affairs in a Chamber of the Viceroy's Palace; and have no longer any Jurisdiction on the Champion Country.  
Every one was seized with such Consternation, as if he had been Thunderstruck; but their Sorrow was much increased on the fifth of the same Month, when the Camp Master-General went to the Townhouse, and seized all their Charters, and Original Copies of their Privileges, and made 'em be burnt publicly by the Hands of the common Hangman. The Prince de Condro was afterwards apprehended, to the great grief of his Family, but particularly the Princess Elenora, his Sister, whose Tears were not shed alone: this Princess is not above Eighteen; her Beauty and Wit are miraculous, which astonish those about her. Don Sancho's Eyes grew red at the remembrance of this Princess, and I plainly perceived Pity had not all the share in what he said; yet he continued on his Discourse to me of Messina.  
The Viceroy, added he, published an Order, by which all the Citizens were enjoined, under penalty of ten Years Imprisonment, and five thousand Crowns Fine, to bring their Arms into his Palace. He at the same time caused the great Bell in the Townhouse to be taken down, and beaten to pieces in their sight: He ordered all the Bells in the Cathedral to be melted, to make a Statue of the King of Spain. And the Prince of Condro's Children were taken into Custody: But their Fear increased, when the Viceroy ordered D. V Zuffo's Head to be cut off. This Example of Severity Alarmed all the People; and what appeared most terrible, was, That in the late Troubles, some Families of Messinois having withdrawn themselves into several Parts, the Marquis de Liche, the Spanish Ambassador at Rome, advised them, as a Friend, to return into their own Country, assuring them all was Quire, and that a General Pardon was already published; and for their greater assurance, gave them Pastports. These poor People (who had not taken up Arms, and being not of the number of the Revolters, knowing their Innocency, could never have imagined they should have been treated as Criminals] returned to Messina; where they had scarcely landed, but the Joy they had of seeing themselves in their Native Country, and in the midst, of their Friends, was sadly disturbed, when they were seized on, and the next Morning, without any Quarter, or regard to Sex or Age, by the Viceroy's Order, all hanged. He afterwards, sent to demolish the great Tower of Palermo; and the principal Citizens of it, remonstrating against the excessive Impositions on Corn, Silks, and other Commodities, the Marquis de las Navas sent them all to the Galleys, without being moved by the Tears of their Wives, and the need so many poor Children might have of their Fathers.  
I must acknowledge, continued Don Sancho, that my Nature is so averse to the Rigours every day exercised on these poor People, that I could not for all the World remain any longer at Messina. The Marquis de las Navas was for sending to Madrid, to inform the King of what he had done. I entreated him to charge me with this Commission; and in effect he consented, and gave me his Letters, which I have delivered to the King at Madrid; and at the same time my Intercessions for the Prince de Condro: And I presume my good Offices will not be wholly useless to him. I am persuaded, said I to him, this was the principal Motive of your Journey: I am no prying body, but methinks you are greatly concerned for the Interests of this Family. It's true, Madam, continued he, the Injustice done this Unfortunate Prince does sensibly affect me: Were he not Brother to the Princess Eleonora, said I to him, perhaps you would not so much lay it to heart. But no more of this; I perceive this Remembrance afflicts you. Pray let me rather hear from you what is most remarkable in your Country. Ah! Madam, cried he, you insult over me; for you must needs know, that Galicia is so poor and mean a Country that there's no place for bragging; not but that the Town of St. James de Compostella is considerable enough: it is the Capital of the Province, and scarce one in Spain that's superior to it in Riches and Greatness: Its Archbishopric is worth Seventy Thousand Crowns a Year, and the Chapter has as much; It stands in an agreeable Plain, surrounded with little Hills of moderate height; and it seems as if Nature had placed them there to defend the Town from those deadly Blasts which arise from other Mountains. Here is a University, fine Palaces, stately Churches, public Places, and an Hospital, one of the most considerable, and best served in Europe: It consists of two Courts of Extraordinary greatness, with Fountains in the midst. Several Knights of St. James live in this Town, and the Metropolis, which is dedicated to this Saint, keeps his Body: It is extreme stately, and prodigiously rich: It is pretended you hear a kind of Clattering at his Tomb, as if Arms were struck one against another; and this noise is only heard when the Spaniards are to undergo any great Loss. His Figure is represented on the Altar, and the Pilgrims thrice kiss it, and put their Hats on his Head; for this is the chief part of the Ceremony: they have also another very singular one; they ascend the top of the Church, which is covered with great flat Stones; In this place stands a Cross of Iron, whereon the Pilgrims ever fasten some Rag, or Scrap of what they wear: They pass under this Cross by so straight a Passage, that they are forced to crawl on their Bellies through it; and those who are not slender, are in danger of being bursten. And there have been some so ridiculous and superstitious, that having omitted to do this, they have expressly returned back again three or four hundred Leagues; for you see here Pilgrims of all Nations. Here is a French Chapel, of which great Care is taken; It is said, the Kings of France have been always great Benefactors to it. The Church which is under ground is a better than that above; there are stately Tombs, and Epitaphs of great Antiquity, which exercise the Wits of Travellers. The Archiepiscopal Palace is a vast Pile, and its Antiquity adds to its Beauty, instead of diminishing it. A Man of my Acquaintance, a great Searcher into Etymologies, assured me the Town of Compostella was so called, because St. James was to suffer Martyrdom in the place where he should see a Star appear at Compestella. It is true, continued he, that some People pretend it to be thus; but the People's Credulity and Superstition carries 'em further; for you are showed at Padron, near Compostella, an hollow Stone; and it is pretended this was the little Boat in which St. James arrived, after he had passed so many Seas in it, which being of Stone, must have, without a signal Miracle, sunk to the bottom. I suppose, said I to him, you believe this to be most true. He smiled, and continued his Discourse: I cannot but give you the Description of our Militia: They are called together every Year in the Month of October, and all the Young Men from the Age of Fifteen, are obliged to march; for should it happen that a Father, or any other Relation should conceal his Son or Kinsman, and those who are Officers should come to know it, they would condemn him who has so offended, to perpetual Imprisonment. There have been some Examples of this, but they are rare; for the Peasants are so infinitely pleased to see themselves Armed, and treated as Cavalieroes & de Nobles Saldadoes deal Rey, that they would not for any Consideration be wanting to show themselves on this occasion. You shall seldom see in an whole Regiment any Soldier that has more Shirts than that on his Back; and the Stuff they wear, seems for its Coarseness to be made of Pack-thread: their Shoes are made of Cord; they wear no Stockings, yet every Man has his Peacock, or Dunghil-Cock's Feather in his Cap, which is tied up behind, with a Rag about his Neck in form of a Ruff; their Sword oftentimes hangs by their side tied with a bit of Cord, and ordinary without a Scabbard; the rest of their Arms is seldom in better Order: And in this Equipage they march gravely to Tuy, where is the General Rendezvouz, it being a Frontier place to Portugal. There are three which lie thus, the abovementioned, Cindud-Rodrigo, and Badajor, but Tuy is the best guarded, because it is over-against Valentia, a considerable Town belonging to the King of Portugal, and which has been carefully fortified: These two Towns are so near, that their Cannon will reach each other; and if the Portuguises have omitted nothing to put Valentia out of danger of being insulted over, the Spaniards pretend Tuy is in as good a Condition to defend itself; It stands on an Hill, whose lower part is washed by the River Minhio; it has good Ramparts, strong Walls, and good store of Artillery. It is here, I say, where these our Champions bid Defiance to the King's Enemies, and in a strutting Bravery, declare, they do not fear 'em. Perhaps something of this may happen in time, for here are formed as good. Troops as in any other part of Spain. However, this is a great loss to the Kingdom, the whole Youth being thus taken up; for the Lands, for the most part lie untilled, and on the side of St. James de Compostella, you would think you saw a Wilderness; on that of the Ocean, the Country being better and more peopled, yields greater Profit, and all things necessary and convenient, as Oranges, Lemons and Pomegranates, several sorts of Fruits, and excellent Fish, especially Pilchards, more delicate than those which come from Royan to Bourdeaux.  
One of the most remarkable things, in my mind, in this Kingdom, is the Town of Doiense, one part of which always enjoys the Sweetness of the Spring, and the Fruits of Autumn, by reason of several Springs of boiling Water, which warm the Air by their Exhalations; whilst the other part of this same Town suffers the Rigours of the longest Winters, standing as it does at the Foot of a very cold Mountain; so that you find in the space of one only Season, all those which compose the course of the Year.  
You say nothing, replied I to him, of the marvellous Fountain, called Louzano. Who have told you of it, Madam? answered he. Persons that have seen it, added I. You have been then told, continued he, that on the top of the Mountain of Cerbret, you find this Fountain at the Source of the River Lours; which has Flux and Reflux as the Sea, tho' it be at twenty Leagues distance from it; that the greater the Heats are, the more Water it casts, that this Water is sometimes cold as Ice, and sometimes as hot as if it boiled, there being no Natural Cause to be given for it. You learn me Particulars I was ignorant of, said I to him, and this is doing me a great Pleasure, for I want not for Curiosity in relation to things uncommon. I wish, replied he, 'twas not so late, I would give you an account of several Rarities in Spain, and which perhaps you would gladly learn. I leave you for to Night, said I to him, but I hope before we come to Madrid, we shall have an opportunity of discoursing of them. He very civilly made me a Promise; and the Play being ended, we bade one another good night.  
When I would go to rest, I was led into a Gallery full of Beds, as you see in Hospitals: I said, this was ridiculous; and that needing only four, what occasion was there for showing me forty, and to put me into such an open place to starve me? I was answered, This was the best place in the House, and I must take up with it. I caused my Bed to be made, when scarce was I laid down, but some body knocked softly at my Door; my Women opened it, and remained much surprised to see the Master and Mistress followed by a dozen of sorry creatures, and so clothed that they were half naked. I drew my Curtain at the Noise they made, and opened more mine Eyes at the sight of this Noble Company. The Mistress drew near to me, and told me, These were honest Travellers, who were coming into the Beds which remained empty. How, lie here? said I, I believe you have lost your Senses. I should have lost 'em indeed, replied she, should I let so many Beds stand Empty. Either, Madam, you must pay for them, or these honest Gentlemen must lie in them. I cannot express my Rage to you; I was in the mind to send for Don Fernand and my Knights, who would have sooner made 'em pass through the Windows than through the Doors: But I considered this could not be done without some Disturbance, and therefore I came to Terms, and agreed to pay 20 d. for each Bed: they are hardly dearer at Fontainbleau when the Court is there. These Illustrious Dons, or, to speak better, Tatterdemalions, who had the Insolence to come into my Room, immediately withdrew, having made me several profound Reverences.  
The next Morning I thought to have burst with laughter, though 'twas at my Cost, when I discovered mine Hostess' Trick to ruin me: For you must know in the first place, that these pretended Travellers were their Neighbours, and that they are accustomed to this Stratagem, when they see Strangers: But when I would have reckoned the Beds to pay for 'em, they were rolled all of 'em into the midst of the Gallery; there were divers wretched Troughs of Straw pulled out, which were hardly good enough to entertain Dogs, yet I must pay for each 20 d. Four Pistoles ended our Dispute. I was not able to put myself in a Passion, such singularity did I find in this Management. I would not recount this little Accident to you, did it not serve to give you some insight into the Humour of this Nation.  
We set out from Burgos very late, the Wether was so bad, and there had fallen in the Night such great quantity of Rain, that I tarried there as long as I could, in expectation of its ceasing. In fine, I came to a Resolution, and ascended my Litter. I had not gotten far from the Town, but I repent of my leaving it; no Track could be seen, especially on a very high steep Mountain, over which we must necessarily pass. One of our Mule-drivers, who went before, struck too far on the Edge of this Mountain, so that he fell with his Mule into a kind of Precipice, where he broke his Head, and put his Arm out of joint; this being the famous Philip de St. Sebastian, the most intelligent of all his Profession, and who commonly carries Persons of Quality to Madrid; he was therefore much bemoaned; and we remained a great while before we could hale him out from the scurvy place where he had fallen; Don Fernand was so compassionate as to let him have his Litter. The Night came speedily on us, and we could have comforted ourselves, could we have returned to Burgos, but it was impossible, the ways were no less covered with Snow on that side, than all the rest; so that we put in at Madrigalesco, which has not above a dozen Houses, and I may say we were besieged without having any Enemies. This Adventure gave us some disturbance, tho' we had brought Provisions with us for several Days. The best House of the Town has half uncovered; and I was scarce lodged there, when a venerable Old Man asked for me on the part of a Lady who was just arrrived: He made me a Compliment, and told me, He was informed this was the only place where there was any tolerable Entertainment; and therefore entreated me to spare her some room. He added, She was a Person of Quality of Andalousia, was lately a Widow, and that he had the Honour to belong to her.  
One of our Knights, named Don Esteve de Carjaval, who is of the same Country, failed not to demand her Name of the old Gentleman: He told him, she was the Marchioness de Los Rios. At this Name he turned towards me, and spoke to me of her as of a Person whose Merit and Fortune were very considerable; I readily accepted of this good Company: She immediately came in her Litter, out of which she had not descended, having found no House where she could abide.  
Her Dress seemed to me very singular; had she not been so handsome as she was, she could never have appeared in any sort tolerable: Her Gown and Petticoat was of black Serge, and over them a kind of Linen Surplice, which reached down lower than her Knees; the Sleeves were long, and straight in the Arms, which hung over her Hands: This Surplice was fastened to her Gown, and being not pleated behind, it seemed like a Bib: she wore on her Head a piece of Muslin, which covered her Face, and one would have taken it for a Religiose's Hood; this covered her Neck, and reached down very low: There appeared no Hair on her Head, they were all hid under this Muslin: She wore a great Mantle of black Taffeta, which covered her Heels; and over this Mantle she had an Hat, whose Brims were very large, fastened under her Chin with silken Twist. I was told they wear this but only when they travel.  
This is the Habit of the Widows and Duenna's, a Dress which is insupportable to my sight; and should one meet with a Woman in the Night thus clothed, one might be startled without Reproach; yet the Lady was very beautiful in this Unseemly Dress. They never leave it, unless they marry; and they are obliged to bewail the Death of an Husband, whom they could not endure when living.  
I was informed they pass the first Year of their Mourning in a Chamber hung with Black, wherein there is not the least glimmering of Daylight to be seen; they fit crosslegged on a little Holland-Quilt. When this Year is ended, they retire into a Chamber hung with Grace: they must have no Pictures, nor Looking-Glasses, nor Cabinets, nor fine Tables, nor Plate, neither must they have any Diamonds, or wear any Colours: However modest they are, they must live so retired, that it must seem their Soul is already in the other World. This Constraint is the cause that several Ladies who are wealthy, and especially in rich household-goods, marry again to have the satisfaction of making use of them.  
After the first Compliments, I informed myself from this mournful Widow where she was going; she told me, She had not for a long time seen a Friend of her Mother's who was a Religious at Lashuelgas de Burgos, which is a famous Nunnery, wherein there is an hundred and fifty Nuns, most of 'em the Daughters of Princes, Dukes and Tituladoes. She added, That the Abbess is Lady of fourteen large Towns, and above fifty other Places, wherein she chooses Governors and Magistrates; that she is Superior of seventeen Convents; Collates to several Benefices, and disposes of twelve Commanderships in favour of whom she pleases. She told me she designed to pass some time in this Monastery: Can you, Madam, said I to her, accustom yourself to so retired a Life as is that of a Convent? It will be no hard matter, said she, for I believe I see fewer People at my own House than I shall see there; and in effect these Religious have Liberty enough: They are commonly the handsomest young Women of the Family who are there; these enter therein so young, that they know not what they are made to leave, nor what they undertake at the Age of six or seven, and it may be sooner. They are caused to make Vows, when 'tis often the Father or Mother, or some near Relation, who pronounce them for 'em, whilst the little Sacrifice disports herself with Sugar-plums, and lets 'em dress her how they will: Yet the Bargain holds, there's no unsaying it; however, they have every thing which can be expected in their Condition. There are at Madrid s me whom they call the Ladies of St. James: they are properly Canonnesses, who make their Trials like the Knights of this Order; they bear, like them, a Sword made in form of a Cross, embroidered with Crimson Silk; they have 'em on their Scapularies and great Cloaks, which are white: These Lady's House is very stately; all who come to visit 'em enter without any difficulty; their Apartments are very fine, and every whit as well furnished as if they were at large in the World; they enjoy great Pensions, and each of 'em has three or four Women to wait on them: It's true, they never stir out, nor see their nearest Relations, but through several Grates. This perhaps would look horrid in another Country, but in Spain they are accustomed to Confinement.  
There are Convents where the Religious see more Cavaliers than the Women who live at large, neither are they less gallant; It is impossible for any to have more Gaiety than they; and, as I have already told you, Madam, here are more Beauties than abroad; but it must be granted, there are several among them who are deeply sensible at their having been so soon sacrificed; they think of the Pleasures which they have never tasted, as the only ones which can make this Life Happy. They pass theirs in a Condition worthy of Compassion, always telling you, they are there by Force; and that the Vows they are made to repeat at the Age of five or six Years, are to be regarded like children's Plays.  
Madam, said I to her, it would have been great pity, had your Relations designed you for such a Life; and one may judge, in beholding you, that all the beautiful Spanish Ladies are not Religioses. Alas, Madam, said she, in fetching a deep Sigh, I know not what I would be; it seems I am of a very odd Humour, not to be contented with my Fortune: but one has sometimes Vneasinesses which are unaccountable to Reason. In ending these words, she fastened her Eyes to the ground, and fell into such a deep fit of Musing, that I could easily perceive something disturbed her.  
Whatever Curiosity I had to know the Subject, we had been so little together, that I dared not desire to be her Confident; but to draw her from the melancholy Posture she was in, I entreated her to tell me some News of the Court of Spain, seeing she came from Madrid. She did what she could to recover herself: she than told me, There were great shows of Joy at Court on the Queen's Birthday: that the King had sent one of the Gentlemen of his Chamber to Toledo, to Compliment her from him: Yet these fine Appearances hindered not the Marquis de Mansera, the Queen's Major Domo, from receiving Orders to retire twenty Leagues from the Court, which had greatly mortified this Princess. She informed us, That the Fleet which carried Troops to Galicia, was unhappily cast away on the Coasts of Portugal. That the little Duchess de Terra Nova, was to Espouse Don Nicolo Pignatelli, Prince de Monteleon, her Uncle. That the Marquis de Laganez had refused the Vice-royalty of Sardagnia, being in love with a fine Lady, whom he could not find in his heart to leave. That Don Carlos de Omodei, Marques d' Almanazid, was dangerously ill, at his Disappointment of being admitted a Grandee of Spain, to which he pretended, having married the Heiress of the House and Grandeurship of Castle Rodrigue; and that which most sensibly afflicted him, was, that Don Ariel de Gusman, this Lady's first Husband, had enjoyed this Honour; so that he could not but look on the Difficulties thrown in his way as a slighting of his Person: In truth, Madam, said I to her, I can hardly comprehend how a Man of sense, can with such eagerness pursue, and be so greatly dejected at a Disappointment of this Nature. We are otherwise affected in Spain, replied the beautiful Widow, and this Instance is a proof of it.  
Don Frederic de Cardonne, who greatly interested himself for the Duke de Medina Celi, asked her News of him: The King, said she, has lately made him Precedent of the Indies. The Queen-Mother has wrote to the King, on the Report which runs, that he is about Marrying; that she is surprised things are already gone so far, and he has not acquainted her with them. She adds in her Letter, She advised him in the mean time, whilst all things were ready for this Ceremony, to make a Journey to Catalonia and Arragon. Don John of Austria sufficiently understands the Necessity of this, and he presses the King to departed, to content these People, in promising by Oath, according as is customary to new Kings, to maintain all their ancient Privileges. Have then, Madam, said I to her, interrupting her, the Arrogonois any other Privileges than the castilians? Very particular ones, replied she, and you being a Stranger, I believe you will be willing to let me inform you of them. Here's what I learned:  
The Daughter of Count Julien, named Cava, was one of the most beautiful Ladies in the World: King Rodrigue became so passionately in love with her, that his Affections knowing no Bounds, transported him beyond all measure. The Father, who was then in Africa, informed of the Outrage done his Daughter, who breathed nothing but Revenge, treated with the Moors, and supplied 'em with the means to enter into Spain, 
* This happened in 714, after the Battle of St. Martin, wherein D. Rodrigue lost his Life; others say, he fled into Portugal, and died in a Town there called Viscii.  and to make there, for sundry Ages, all those Ravages set forth at large in history.  
The Arragonois were the first who shook off the Yoke of these Barbarians; and finding no more among them any Princes of the Race of the Gothish Kings, they agreed to Elect one, and cast their eyes on a Lord of the Country, called Garci Ximinex; but they being Masters, to impose Laws on him, and finding himself sufficiently Happy that he might Rule over them under any Condition, these People therefore confined him within narrow Bounds.  
They agreed, That as soon as their Monarch should break through any of their Laws, he should immediately forfeit his Power, and they be at full liberty to choose another, though he were a Pagan: and to hinder him from violating their Privileges, and to defend themselves against him, they established a Sovereign Magistrate, whom they called the Justicia, whose Office was to observe the Conduct of the King, the Judges, and he People: but the Power of a Sovereign being likely to Awe a mere Particular, to Assure the Justicia in the Execution of his Office, they ordered, That he might not suffer either in his Person or Goods, but by a complete Assembly of the States, which they call Las Cortes.  
They moreover provided, That if the King should Oppress any one of his Subjects, the great and considerable Men of the Kingdom might assemble themselves, and hinder his receiving any of his Revenues, till the Innocent was acquitted, and re-establisht in his former Rights. And to make Garci Ximinez timely sensible of the Power this Man had over him, they set him on a kind of a Throne, and made the King to kneel down bare headed before him, to receive from him his Oath of keeping their Privileges. This Ceremony ended, they acknowledge him their Sovereign, but in as odd as disrespectful a Manner, for instead of promising him Fidelity and Obedience, they say to him, We who are as good Men as yourself we make you our King and Governor, on Condition you keep to us our Rights and Properties, otherwise we Disacknowledge you.  
The King, Don Pedro, in process of time coming to the Crown, relished this Custom, as unworthy of the Regal State; and it so greatly disgusted him, that by his Authority and Entreaties, and the Offers he made of bestowing several notable Privileges on the Kingdom, he procured the Abolishment of this, in an Assembly of the States: he got this general Consent in Writing, which was presented to him. As soon as he had the Parchment, he drew out his Dagger, and pierced his Hand with it, saying, 'Twas fit a Law which gave Subjects the Liberty of choosing their Sovereign should be Effaced with their Sovereign's Blood. His Statue is still seen in the Deputation-Hall of Saragossa: he holds a Dagger in one Hand, and the Charter in the other. The late Kings have not been such Religious Observers of their Privileges as the first.  
But there is a Law still in force, and which is very singular, and this they call, The Law of Manifestation; which is, That if an Arragonois had Wrong done him in Judgement, in consigning 500 Crowns, he may bring his Cause before the Justicia, who is obliged, after an exact Perquisition, to punish him who has given a wrong Sentence: And if he fails therein, the oppressed Person may have Recourse to the States of the Kingdom, who Assemble and Nominate five Persons of their Body, which is to say, of the Prime Nobility, the ecclesiastics, the Gentry and Commonalty: they appoint three out of the first Rank, and two from each of the others. But it is observable, they choose the most Ignorant to Judge the most able Men in the Gown, whether to Disgrace 'em the more for their Fault, or, as they allege, That Justice should be so clear, that the very Ploughmen, and those who understand the least, should discern it without the help of Oratory. It is likewise affirmed, That the Judges tremble when they pronounce a Sentence, fearing lest it turn against themselves, to the loss of their Lives or Estates, should they commit the least Fault therein, either wilfully, or through Inadvertency. It were well if this Custom were observed in all Kingdoms: but this is rather to be wished than expected.  
Yet what is no less singular, is That Justice remains always Sovereign; and though the Unjust Judge be punished severely for his wrong Decree, yet it subsists in its full force, and is fully executed: If then any Unhappy Wretch be sentenced to Death, he is not spared, tho' his Innocency be discovered, and made as clear as Noonday; but his Judges are executed too before his Face; which, in my mind, is a poor Consolation. If the Judge accused, as justly performed his Office, the Plaintiff leaves the 500 Crowns which he had configned: But were he to lose an 100000 Crowns of Annual Revenue, by the Sentence he complains of, the Sentence or Decree remains good, and the Judge is only condemned to pay him likewise 500 Crowns; the rest of this Judge's Estate is forfeited to the King: which is, in my Opinion, another Point of Injustice; for in fine, he ought, above all others, to have Recompense made him who suffers by a wrong Sentence.  
These same People have another Custom, to distinguish by the Punishment the Crime committed: for Example, A Cavalier, who has killed another in Duel (for they are here strictly forbid), he has his Head cut off before; and he that has Assassinated, his is cut off behind. This is to distinguish him who has behaved himself like a brave Man, from him that kills you Treacherously.  
She added, That to speak in general of the Arragonois, They have a Natural Pride, which is hard to be suppressed: but likewise to do them Justice, there are People of brave Minds to be found among them; insomuch, that they are easily discerned from all the rest of the King of Spain's Subjects: That they have never wanted Great Men, from their first King to Ferdinand: That they counted such a great number of them, as would scarce be believed: However, they have greatly recommended themselves by their Valour and Conduct. That as to the rest, their Country was so little fruitful, that excepting some Valleys which were watered by Channels, whose Water came from the Ebre, the rest was so dry and sandy, that you meet with scarce any thing else but stony and parched up places: That Sarragossa is a great City, the Houses finer than at Madrid; the Public Places adorned with Arches; That the Holy Street, where the Courses are run, is so long and large, as may make it pass for a great and vast place, having several great men's Palaces on it; that of Castelmorato being one of the pleasantest: That the Vault of St. Fancis' Church was very curious, for being of extraordinary Largeness, yet 'tis upheld by no Pillars: That the City is not strong, but the Inhabitants so stout, that it needed no Walls; that it has never a Fountain, this being one of its greatest Defects: That the Ebre carried no Boats, the River being full of dangerous Rocks. As to the rest, the Archbishopric was worth 60000 Crowns a Year: That the Vice-Royalty brought in no Revenue, being a Place of Honour, fit only for great Lords to bear the Expense of it, to maintain their Ranks, and keep the People under, who are Naturally Fierce and Imperious, not Affable to Strangers; and so little desirous of making Acquaintance, that they choose rather to stay at Home alone all their Life-time, than stir out to procure Friendships: That here is a severe Inquisition, who have a stately Palace, and a most Rigid Court of Justice; Yet this does not hinder great Troops of Robbers, called Bandoleros, from Ravaging, and dispersing themselves over all Spain; who give no Quarter to Travellers, snatching up sometimes Women of Quality, whom they afterwards set at Ransom, for their Parents to Redeem; but when they are Handsome they keep them: And this is the greatest Misfortune can happen to 'em, being forced to spend their Days with the Worst of Men, who keep them in dreadful Caves, or carry them along with them on Horseback, being so furiously jealous of 'em, that one of their Captains (having been lately set upon by Soldiers sent into the Mountains to seize on him) being mortally wounded, and having his Mistress with him, who was of the Marquis de Camaraza, a Grandee of Spain's Family: When she saw him in this Condition, she thought only of making Use of this favourable Opportunity of saving herself; which he perceiving, dying, as he was, he catched hold of her Hair, and struck his Dagger into her Breast, being not willing, said he, that another should possess a Treasure which had been so dear to him. And this is what himself acknowledged to the Soldiers who found him, and saw this sad Spectacle.  
The Beautiful Marchioness here held her peace; and I returned her all due Thanks for the Favour she did me, in informing me of these Curiosities; and of which, perhaps without her, I might have been Ignorant all my Life. I do not think, Madam, said she to me, you own me such Thanks; I rather fear the having deserved Reproaches for so long and tiresome a Conversation.  
I would not let her leave me to eat elsewhere; and I obliged her to lie with me, she having no Bed. So Civil and Courteous a Proceeding made her much my Friend. She assured me of this in such Affectionate Terms, that I could not doubt of it; for I must tell you, the Spanish Women are more Caressing than we, and are far more Kind and Tender to those they profess Friendship, In fine, I could not forbear telling her, That if she had all the Kindness for me she made profession, she must be so complaisant, to inform me, What made her seem so melancholy? That I had heard her fetch deep Sighs in the Night, and appeared very Restless and Disconsolate; That if she could find any Comfort in sharing her Grief with me, I offered my Service to her, as a most faithful Friend. She embraced me with great Affection, and told me, without delay, she would immediately satisfy my Curiosity; which she did in these Terms:  
Seeing you are desirous to know me, I must without disguising to you any thing, acknowledge my Weaknesses to you: and by my Sincerity and Openheartedness, deserve a Curiosity as obliging as yours:  
I come not of such a Family as may claim Nobility; my Father's Name was Davila; he was only a Banker, but he was in good Credit, and was moderately Wealthy: We are of Sevill, Capital of Andalousia, and we have ever dwelled there. My Mother knew the World, she saw many People of Quality, and having no Children but me, she took great care of my Education: It did not appear ill-bestowed on me; for I had the good Fortune to get the good Will of most that saw me.  
We had two Neighbours who came often to our House, who were very welcome both to my Father and Mother: Their Condition and Age were in no sort alike; One was the Marquis de Los Rios, a Person Wealthy and Noble; he was a Widower, and well advanced in years: the other was the Son of a great Merchant, who traded to the Indies; he was Young and Handsome, he had Wit, and a very graceful Behaviour; his Name was Mendez; He was not long before he fell passionately in Love with me; so that he omitted nothing which might please me, and gain my Affections.  
He was in all places where he knew I was to pass; he spent whole Nights under my Windows, to sing Verses which he had composed and set to my Praise, which he had very well accompanied with his Harp.  
But seeing his Attendancies had not all the Effect he expected, and having past some time in this manner, without daring to mention his Affection to me, he at length resolved to make use of the first occasion to acquaint me with it. I avoid-: ed him ever since I had a Conversation with one of my Friends, who had more Experience and Knowledge of the World than I: I had felt, that Mendez's Company gave me Joy, and that my Heart had an Emotion for him, which it had not for others: That when his Affairs, or our Visits hindered him from seeing me, I grew restless; and loving this young Woman, above others, and being as dear to her, she observed I was not so free and gay as I was wont, and that my Eyes were sometimes attentively fixed on Mendez. One Day when she rallied with me about it, I said to her very innocently, My dear Henrieta, define to me the Sentiments I have for Mendez: I know not whether I ought to be afraid of them, and whether I ought not to defend myself from them. I feel I know not what sort of Trouble and Pleasure arising in my Breast. She began to laugh, she embraced me, and said to me, My dear Heart, you are in Love. Who, I in Love? replied I, in amaze: You joke with me; I neither am, nor will be in Love. This depends not always on us, continued she, with a more serious Air, our Stars decide this before our Hearts. But in earnest, what is it so much startles you? Mendez is in a Condition equal to yours; he deserves well, a good comely Man; and if his Affairs go on with the same success as they have done hitherto, you may live very happily with him. And whence should I learn, replied I, interrupting her, that he will be happy with me, and that he so much as thinks this? O, take my Word for it, answered she, whatever he has done has its Designs; for Men are not wont to pass Nights under Windows, and the Days in following a Person for whom they have nothing but Indifferency.  
After some other Discourse of this Nature, she left me, and I resolved, maugre the Repugnance I felt in me, to give Mendez no opportunity of speaking to me in particular.  
But one Night as I was walking in the Garden, he came towards me: I was perplexed to see myself alone with him; and he had the opportunity of observing it on my Countenance, and in the manner after which I received him. This could not divert him from the design he had of entertaining me: How Happy am I, Madam, said he, to find you alone? But do I call myself Happy! Perhaps I know not what I say: for it may be you will not receive a Secret with which I would entrust you. I am as yet so young, said I to him, blushing, that I would advise you to say nothing to me, unless you would have me impart it to my Companions. Alas, continued he, should I tell you, I adore you; that all my Happiness depends on the Inclinations you have towards me: That I cannot live without some Certainty, that I may one day please you; will you tell this to your Companions? No, said, I to him, in great perplexity, I would look on this Confidence as a Raillery, and not believing it myself, I would not hazard its being left to be believed by others.  
We were interrupted as I ended these words; and he appeared to me not overcontent with the Answer I made him; and a while after he found an opportunity to reproach me with it.  
I could not but give a favourable Ear to the Inclinations I had towards him; every thing he told me seemed to me to have its particular Gracefulness: And it was no hard matter for him to persuade me, that he loved me above all things in the World. In the mean time, the Marquis de Los Rios took such a liking to me, and my Person and Behaviour ran so deeply in his Thoughts, that he wholly applied himself to please me. He was very nice and cautious; he could not resolve with himself to owe me wholly to my Parent's Authority: He well knew they would receive as an Honour the Intentions he had for me; but he was for gaining my Consent before he demanded theirs.  
In this Design he said all to me he thought was like to take with me. I answered him, I should always think it an indispensable Duty to obey my Father: yet our Ages were so different, that I told him, I thought 'twere better he left off thinking of me; that I should have an everlasting Acknowledgement for the advantageous Intentions he had for me: and therefore I would esteem him, though I could not love him. Having heard what I said, he was some time without speaking, and immediately taking up a very generous Resolution: Lovely Mariana, says he, you might have made me the happiest Man in the World; and if you were ambitious, I had therewith to satisfy you: But you refuse me, and I desire to be another's: I consent to it; I love you too well to be in suspense, whether you are to be satisfied or I; I therefore wholly sacrifice my Happiness to you, and leave you for ever. In ending these Words he left me, and appeared so afflicted, that I could not forbear being concerned.  
Mendez arrived a while after, and found me melancholy: He was so earnest with me to know the Cause, that I could not deny him this Proof of my Complaisance. Any one but he would have had a sensible Obligation at the Exclusion I came from giving his Rival: But far from seeming to value it, he told me, He saw in mine Eyes the Regret I had for a Lover, who could place me in another sort of a Rank than he was able; and that my Proceeding was very Cruel. In vain I endeavoured to make him sensible of the Injustice of his; but all I could say, could not hinder him from charging me with Inconstancy. I remained vexed, and surprised at this his way of Dealing, and was several days without speaking to him.  
He, in fine, at last understood he had no Reason to Complain; he came to me, begged my Pardon, and testified to me a great Displeasure at his own Jealousy: He excused himself, as all Lovers do, on the strength of his Passion. I had so much Weakness as to be willing to forget the Trouble he had given me: we made up the Matter between us, and he continued on his Courtship.  
His Father having understood the Passion he had for me, thought he could not procure him a more advantageous Marriage: he took notice of it to him, and came afterwards to my Father, to open to him the Proposal: they had been long Friends; he was favourably heard, and they easily agreed on the Matter.  
Mendez came to inform me of the News, with such Transports as would have seemed ridiculous to any other than a Mistress. My Mother ordered me to look kindly on him, telling me, this Affair would be advantageous to me: and as soon as the India-Fleet should arrive, wherein he was greatly concerned, the Marriage should be concluded.  
Whilst matters thus past, the Marquis de Los Rios had retired to one of his Country-Houses, where he scarcely saw any one: He led a languishing Life; he still loved me, but hindered himself from telling me so, and from comforting himself by this innocent Remedy.  
In fine, his Body could not resist the Heaviness of his Mind; he fell dangerously ill, and being told by the Physicians, there was no hope of his Recovery, he plucked up his Spirits to write me the most affectionate Letter imaginable, and sent at the same time to me a Deed of Gift of all his Estate, in case he died. My Mother was in my Chamber, when a Gentleman presented this Packet from him; she would know what it contained.  
I could not forbear at the same time, telling her what had past; and we were both of us in the greatest surprise at the Marquess' extreme Generosity. She sent him word, that I should go with my Family to thank him for a Liberality which I had no ways deserved: And in particular, she sharply reprehended me for having made a Mystery of a thing to her with which I ought to have immediately acquainted her. I threw myself at her Feet, I excused myself the best I could, and testified such great Sorrow for having displeased her, that she easily pardoned me. Leaving my Chamber, she went to my Father, and having learned him all which had passed, they resolved to go the next morning to see the Marquis, and to carry me with them.  
I acquainted Mendez with this in the Evening; and the Fear I had, lest my Parents should, in fine, make me marry this old Man, if he chanced to escape out of his Sickness. However sensible I appeared to him of this, he was so far transported, and reproached me so greatly with it, that I must have loved him as much as I did, not to have broke off with him: But he had such an Ascendant over me, though he was the Injustest of all Men, yet I thought him the most Reasonable.  
We were at the Marquis de Los Rios'; his Countryhouse was not above two Leagues from Sevill: Dying, as he was, he received us with such Joy as was easily observable. My Father testified to him his Grief, to see him in so low a Condition, thanked him for the Donation he made me, and assured him, If he could find a fair and just Pretence, he would break ofs with Mendez, to whom he had engaged his Word: That should this happen, he promised him solemnly I should be no Body's but his. He received this Assurance in the same manner as if he had received his perfect Felicity; but he knew well the Dolour I conceived thereat: I became Pale, my Eyes were covered with Tears; and when we were about leaving him, he desired me to draw near to him; he told me with a languishing Tone: fear nothing, Mariana; I love you too well to displease you; you shall have Mendez, seeing your Affections are engaged to him. I answered him: I had no particular Inclination for him; but being commanded to respect him, as a Man who was to be my Husband, I could do no otherwise; however, I entreated him to be well.  
This seemed to me the least step I could take towards a Person to whom I had so great Obligations. He appeared thereat sufficiently satisfied, attempting to take my Hand and kiss it: Remember, said he to me, you enjoin me to live; and that my Life being your Work, you will be obliged to conserve it. We returned at Night, and the Impatient Mendez waited for us, to make me new Reproaches: I took 'em as I was wont, as Proofs of his Passion: and having justified myself, I asked him, What News there was of the Fleet? Alas! said he to me, my Father has received such as drives me to Despair: I dare not inform you. Have you any thing separate from me? said I to him, looking tenderly on him: Would you have me to be reserved to you? I am too Happy, replied he, in that you have such favourable Dispositions; and being not able to keep any Secret from you, I must plainly tell you, That the Galion in which is is our whole Estate, is split and lost, running against a Rock. But I should be less sensible, how greatly soever I am Interest, did I not look on the Unhappy Consequences of this Loss: Your Presence will restore the Marquis de Los Rios to his Health; his Sentiments for you are known in your Family; he is Rich, and a great Lord: I become Miserable; and if you forsake me, my dear Mariana, I shall have no more Hope but in a speedy Death. I was pierced with Sorrow at this sad News: I took one of his Hands, and closing it with mine, I said to him, My dear Mendez, do not think me capable of loving you, and yet leaving you, by the Effects of your good or bad Fortune: if you be able to bear up against it, believe me so too. I call Heaven to witness, continued I, provided you love me, and be faithful to me, that I will never forsake you; and let it punish me if ever I prove Inconstant.  
He testified all the Acknowledgements he ought me for such affectionate Assurances, and we resolved not to divulge this Accident.  
I withdrew very melancholy, and shut myself up in my Closet, ruminating on the Consequences of this sad Disaster. I was still there, when I heard some Body knocking softly at the Shutters of my Window: I drew near, and saw Mendez by the Light of the Moon: What do you here, said I to him, at this time of the Night? Alas, answered he to me, I was trying whether I could speak with you before I departed: My Father has again lately received News of the Galion, and will have me immediately go where she is run aground, to endeavour to save something: It is a great way thither, and I shall be a great while without seeing you. Ah, dear Mariana, during all this time will you be as good as your Word to me? May I hope my dear Mistress will be faithful to me? What Reason have I given you, Mendez, said I, interrupting him, to doubt it? Yes, continued I, I will love you were you the most Unfortunate Man in the World.  
It would be to abuse your Patience, Madam, to relate to you whatsoever we said in this doleful Separation; and though there appeared no Danger, yet our Hearts had a foreboding of what was afterwards to happen to us. The Day began to appear, and we must bid Adieu: I saw him shed Tears, which were accompanied with mine.  
I threw myself on my Bed, rolling a thousand sad Thoughts in my Mind; and I appeared the next Morning so out of Order, that my Father and Mother were afraid I was falling into some dangerous fit of Sickness.  
Mendez his Father came to make them a Visit, to excuse his Son's parting without taking his Leave of them. He added, He had a Business which required such haste, as would not suffer him a Minute's time at his disposal. As to myself, Madam, I was comfortless, being insensible to every thing. And if any thing could ease me, 'twas some hour's Conversation with my dear Henrietta, with whom I freely vented my Thoughts touching the long Absence of Mendez.  
In the mean time the Marquis de Los Rios was out of Danger, and my Father went often to see him: I observed one day great Alteration on my Mother's Countenance, she and my Father having been long shut up with Religioses, who came to give 'em a Visit; and after a Conference of some time, they called me, without my being able to divine the Cause.  
I entered into their Apartment in such Disorder, that I knew not what I did. One of these good Fathers, Venerable by his Age and Habit, spoke much to me about the Resignation we own to the Divine Will, on his Providence, in every thing which relates to us: and the Close of his Discourse was, That Mendez was taken by the Algerines; that he was a Slave; and by his Misfortunes these Pirates had learned he was a rich Merchant's Son; which had occasioned the setting him at an extraordinary Ransom: That they were at Algiers in the time he arrived; would have willingly brought him along with 'em, but the Money which they had for all, was not sufficient for him alone. That at their Return they had been at his Father's to inform him of this vexatious Disaster; but found he had absented himself, and that the loss of a Galion, on which was embarked all his Effects, without being able to save any thing, had induced him to avoid his Creditors, who sought him , to throw him in Prison. That things being in this Condition, they saw no Remedy to poor Mendez his Misfortunes, being in the hands of Meluza the most famous and covetous of all the Corsaries; and that if I would follow their Advice, and that of my Parents, I would think of taking another Party. I had so far heard this dreadful News in so ecstatic a Condition, that I could only interrupt them by sad Sighs; but when he told me, I must think of another Party; I burst out with Tears and Shrieks, as made both my Father and Mother, and these Religioses compassionate me.  
I was carried into my Chamber as one nearer death than life; and Donna Henrietta was sent for, and it was not without great Affliction she beheld me in this sad Condition. I fell into a most deep Melancholy; I tormented myself day and night, and nothing was able to remove my dear Mendez out of my Mind.  
The Marquis de Los Rios, having learned what had passed, conceived such strong Hopes, that he soon found himself in a Condition to come and Claim of my Father and me the Effect of the Words we had given him. I shown him that mine were not disengaged in respect of Mendez; that he was Unfortunate, which no ways lessened my Engagements to him. He heard me without being persuaded by me, and told me, I had the same desire of destroying myself, as others had of saving themselves; that 'twas more my Interest than his, which made him act as he did. And being ravished with having a Pretence which seemed to him plausible, he pressed my Father with such Earnestness, that he at length consented to what he desired.  
It is impossible for me to represent to you, Madam, in what an Abyss of Sorrow I was in: What is become my Lord, said I to the Marquis, of that scrupulous Tenderness which hindered you from taking my Heart from any other hand than my own? Let me at least have some time to forget Mendez; Perhaps his Absence and Misfortunes may prevail on me to some Indifferency towards him. To this cruel Accident, which has snatched him so lately from me, you add new Troubles when you expect I should so speedily pass over from him to you.  
I know not what I expect or may hope for, said he to me, but this I am sure of, that my Complaisance had like to have cost me my Life; that if you be not designed for me, you will be another's; and as to Mendez, his Fortune has been such, that he can no longer pretend to you; and seeing you must be disposed of, I think you are very hard hearted to refuse me. You cannot be ignorant of what I have done hitherto to please you, my former Proceeding should serve as a sufficient Testimony of my future Respects.  
The Marquis made a greater progress in my Father's Mind than mine. In a Word, my Mother having one day sent for me, told me, 'Twas to no purpose to use any longer Delays, my Father being resolved I should obey his Orders. Whatever I could say to excuse myself, my Tears, my Remonstrances, Entreaties were all to no purpose, and served only to exasperate my Mother.  
All things necessary were prepared for my Marriage, the Marquis would have every thing suitable to his Quality; He sent me a Cabinet of Jewels and Precious Stones, to the value of several thousand Crowns. The fatal Day for our Wedding was set. Seeing myself reduced to this Extremity, I took a resolution which will surprise you, Madam, and demonstrate a great Passion.  
I went to Donna Henrietta; this Friend had been ever faithful to me, and threw myself at her feet, surprising her by so extraordinary a Carriage: My dear Henrietta, said I to her, melting in Tears, there is no Remedy to my Misfortunes, unless you have pity on me; do not abandon me, let me conjure you in the sad Condition I am in; to morrow I must marry the Marquis de Los Rios, I can no longer avoid it. If the Offers of Friendship you have made me be Proof against all Trial, and can make you capable of a generous Resolution, you will not refuse to follow my Fortune, and to accompany me to Algiers to pay Mendez his Ransom, to redeem him from the cruel Slavery he is in. You see me at your Feet, continued I, I will never rise till you have given me your Word, to do what I desire you. She seemed so concerned at my Posture, that I arose to make her answer me. She immediately embraced me with great Testimonies of Tenderness: I will refuse you nothing, my dear Mariana, said she to me, were it my very Life; but you are going to ruin yourself and me with you. How can two Girls execute what you project? Our Age, our Sex, and your Beauty, will expose us to Accidents, the bare imagination of which makes me to tremble: this is certain, we are going to overwhelm our Families with Shame and Confusion; and if you had made serious Reflections hereon, it is not possible you could have come to this Resolution. Ah, barbarous! cried I, and more barbarous than he that detains my Lover; you forsake me, but tho' I am alone, yet that shall not hinder me from pursuing my Point, neither can the assistance you should give me stand me in much stead: Remain, remain, I consent, it is fit I should departed without any Comfort to affront all Dangers; I confess such an undertaking is fit only for a desperate Creature.  
My Reproaches and Tears moved Henrietta; she told me my Interest had obliged her as much as her own to speak to me as she had done; but in short, seeing I persisted in my first Resolution, and nothing could divert me from it, she was resolved I should not go alone; That if I would be ruled by her, we should disguise ourselves; that she would undertake to get two Suits of men's Apparel; and as for the rest, it belonged to me to take care of it. I embraced her with a thousand Testimonies of Thankfulness.  
I afterwards asked her, Whether she had seen the Jewels which the Marquis had sent me; I will bring them, said I to her, to purchase Mendez 's Ransom with them. We resolved to lose no time, and we neither of us failed in what we had projected.  
Never were two Maidens better disguised under the Habit of two Cavaliers. We parted that Night, and embarked, ourselves without the least Obstacle, but after some days Sail we were overtaken by so violent a Storm, as made us despair of our Safety. In all this Disorder and Peril, I was less concerned for myself, than for not having compassed my dear Mendez's Liberty, and for having engaged Henrietta to follow my ill Fortune: It is I, said I to her, in embracing her, it is I, my dear Companion, that has raised this Storm, were I not on the Sea it would be Calm; my Misfortune follows me wherever I go. In fine, we having been a Day and two Nights in continual Alarms, the Wether changed, and we arrived at Algiers.  
I was so glad to see myself in a Condition to deliver Mendez, that I reckoned all the Dangers we underwent as nothing: But alas, what became of me in disembarking, when after all the search which could be made, I perceived there was no hope of finding the little Cabinet wherein I had put all I had was most precious: I found myself seized with such violent Grief, that I thought I should have expired before I got out of the Vessel. Without doubt this Cabinet, which was little, and of which I took but small Care during the Tempest, fell into the Sea, or was stole, which ever of these two it was, I had a considerable Loss, and I had only remaining Jewels to the value of a thousand Pounds, which I had kept for all Events about me.  
I resolved with this, to make a Trial with Mendez's Patron: As soon as we were in the Town, we enquired out his House, (for Meluza was well known) and went thither clad as Gentlemen.  
I cannot express to you, Madam, the trouble I was in drawing near this House, where I knew my dear Lover languished in Chains; what sad Reflections did I not make; how did I look when I entered the Corsary's House, and saw Mendez Chained, with several others, who were leading out to work in the Field. I should have fallen at his Feet, had not Henrietta born me up: I no longer knew where I was, nor what I did; I would have spoken to him, but Grief had so seized on my Spirits, that my Tongue could not utter a Word. As to him, he beheld me not; he was so sad and depressed, that he could look on no body; and one must love him as much as I did, to know him, so greatly was he changed.  
After having been some time coming to myself, I went into a low Room, where I was told Meluza was; I saluted him, and told him the occasion of my Voyage; that Mendez was my near Relation; that he was undone by the Loss of a Galion, and his Captivity together; and that 'twas out of my own Money that I would pay his Ransom. The Moor appeared to me little concerned at what I said; and looking scornfully on me, he answered, It was not his business to inquire whence I had my Money; but this he certainly knew, that Mendez was Rich; and to show that he would not take all Advantages, he would therefore set him at twenty thousand Crowns.  
Alas, what would this have been, had I not lost my Jewels? but this was too much in the Condition I was in. In fine, after several long fruitless Disputes, I took on me immediately a resolution which could only be inspired by an extreme Love.  
Here's all I have, said I to the Pirate, in giving him my Diamonds, they are not worth what thou demandest: take me for thy Slave, and be persuaded thou wilt not keep me long. I am the only Daughter of a Rich Banker of Sevill; keep me for an Hostage, and let Mendez go; he will soon return to Redeem me. The Barbarian was surprised to find me capable of so generous and affectionate a Resolution. Thou art worthy, said he to me, of a better Fortune. Be it so; I accept the Condition you offer me: I will take care of thee, and be a good Patron to thee. Thou must leave the Habit thou wearest, to put on one agreeable to thy Sex: thou shalt keep thy Jewels if thou wilt, I can as well stay for the whole as for a part.  
Donna Henrietta was so confused and dismayed at the Bargain I came from concluding, that she could not sufficiently express her Displeasure to me; but in fine, maugre all her Remonstrances and Entreaties, I held firm, and Meluza caused a Slave's Habit to be brought me, which I put on.  
He conducted me to his Wife's Chamber, to whom he delivered me, having recounted to her what I had done for my Lover's Liberty.  
She seemed to be much effected with it, and promised she would shorten the time of my Servitude by all the good Treatments she could make me.  
At Night, when Mendez returned, Meluza caused him to be called, telling him, That being of Sevill, he would therefore show him a Slave he had bought, because perhaps he might know her.  
Immediately I was brought before him; Mendez at this sight, losing all Countenance, came and cast himself at my Feet, and taking my Hands, which he bathed with his Tears, he said every thing which was most tender and affectionate to me. Meluza and his Wife diverted themselves, in seeing the different Motions of Joy and Grief with which we were agitated: in fine, they informed Mendez of the Obligations he had to me; that he was free, and that I would remain in his place. He did whatever could be done to dissuade me from taking this Task on me: Alas, said he to me, you would have me load you with my Chains, my dear Mistress; Shall I be free, when you are not? I go then to do for you what you come from doing for me; I will sell myself, and Redeem you with this Money: for in fine, consider, that should I as soon as I arrive at Sevill, find Assistance, and return again to bring you back, yet how is it possible for me in the mean time to leave you; judge how I can do this in a time wherein my Fortune promises me nothing, and am the most Unhappy of all Men. I offered against all his Reasons, the Tenderness of my Father, who would soon Redeem me when he knew where I was. In fine, I made use of all the Power I had over his Mind, to make his Advantage of what I had done in his Favour.  
What shall I say to you, Madam, of our Separation? It was so dolorous, that Words cannot express what we felt. I obliged Henrietta to part with him, to solicit and press my Parents to do their part in my behalf.  
In the mean time my Father and Mother were in an unconceivable Affliction and when they perceived my flight, they thought to die with Grief.  
They blamed themselves infinitely for forcing me to marry the Marquis de Los Rios. He was for his part in no less Despair; they caused me to be searched for in vain, in all places where they thought I might have hid myself.  
Two whole Years were passed without my receiving any News or Succours from Mendez; which made me believe with great likelihood, that both he and Henrietta were cast away on the Sea: I had given them all the Jewels which Meluza had left me; but it was not their Loss, nor that of my Liberty, which I regretted: It was of my dear Lover and faithful Friend, whose Remembrance continually possessed me, and caused me an unparallelled Affliction; I could get no Rest nor Health; I wept Day and Night; I refused to come out of my Slavery in neglecting to signify to my Father my present Condition. I wished only for a speedy Death, which I would have willingly met with, to put an end to my Troubles and Misfortunes.  
Meluza and his Wife began to pity me: they did not doubt but Mendez, was cast away: they treated me less cruelly, than these sort of People are wont to use those Unhappy Wretches, who fall into their Hands.  
One Day, as Meluza came from Pyrating he brought with him several Persons of both Sexes which he had taken, and among the rest a Young Woman of some Quality of Sevill, and whom I knew. This sight renewed my Grief: she was much surprised to find me in this sad place. We affectionately embraced one another, and observing a deep silence; How now, Beautiful Mariana, said she to me, are you so indifferent towards your Relations and Country, that you have no Curiosity to make any Inquiries about them? I lifted up mine Eyes to Heaven in uttering a deep Sigh; I entreated her to tell me, If 'twere known where Mendez and Henrietta were lost? Who has told you they are lost? replied she, they are at Sevill, where they lead a very happy Life. Mendez has re-establisht his Affairs, and makes it his great Delight and Honour to publish in all places the Extreme Obligations he has to Henrietta. Perhaps you are ignorant, continued she, that Mendez was taken and made a Slave by the Algerines; this generous young Woman disguised herself, and came hither to redeem him, but he has not been ungrateful, for he has married her. There is a most charming Union between them. Hymen has not banished Love in their particular.  
As she was yet speaking, she perceived my Countenance to alter on a sudden, and that I was ready to faint; my Strength failed me, mine Eyes closed, and I sunk down between her Arms; she was greatly troubled at this; she called my Companions, who put me to Bed, and endeavoured to recover me from this piteous Condition.  
This young Woman greatly concerned herself for me; and when I came to myself, I began to complain; I uttered Sighs and Groans, able to move a Rock.  
Meluza was affected at the Recital of such a worse than barbarous Instance of Treachery, and without any notice to me, he informed himself, by his new Slave of my Father's Name, and immediately wrote to him what he knew of my Misfortunes.  
These Letters were like to have been the Death of my Mother, she could not imagine I could be in Chains at eighteen Years of Age, without shedding a torrent of Tears: But that which augmented her Grief, was, the Disorder of my Father's Affairs; several considerable Bankrupts had ruined him; his Credit was gone, and it was impossible for him to procure the 20000 Crowns which Meluza demanded for my Ransom.  
The Generous Marquis de Los Rios heard this News, came to my Father, and offered him what lay in his Power: I do not do this, said he, in design to force your Daughter's Inclinations when she shall be here; I shall love her always, but I will never displease her. My Father having no other way of Relief, thankfully accepted of what was offered him; and in a word, embarked himself, and happily arrived at Algiers, in the time when I thought only of dying.  
He forbore all those Reproaches I deserved; he redeemed me, and at my Entreaty, this young Woman of Sevill, for a moderate Ransom. We returned together, and my Mother received me with such Joy as is impossible to be expressed. I answered hereto as much as was possible; but I carried always in my Heart, Madam, the fatal Stroke which had wounded me: Whatever my Reason could represent to me, was not sufficient to eface out of my Remembrance the Image of the Traitor Mendez.  
I saw the Marquis de Los Rios: he dared not mention the Inclinations he still had towards me; but I had such pressing Obligations to him, that Gratitude made me do for him, what my Inclinations would have made me do for another.  
I gave him my Hand, and he his to me, with such Affection, as if he had had no solid Matter of Complaint against me.  
In fine, I married him, and apprehending lest I should see Mendez, that Ungrateful Wretch, to whom I own such Horror, and for whom I had so little, I prayed the Marquis we might dwell in the Countryhouse he had near Sevill.  
He ever approved of what I liked; he would have my Father and Mother retire; he lessened the sad Condition of their Fortune, by considerable Liberalities: and I may truly say, there never was a greater Soul. Judge, Madam, of all the Reproaches I made my Heart for its not being so tender to him as it ought to have been: It was not in my power to forget Mendez, and I always felt new Regrets, when I learned his Felicity with the Unfaithful Henrietta.  
Having past two Years in a continual watching over myself, that I might do nothing but what was agreeable to my Husband, Heaven deprived me of him, of this Generous Husband; and he did for me in these last Moment's, what he had already heretofore done, giving me all he had, with such Testimonies of Esteem and Affection, as much enhanced the Price of the Gift: He made me the richest Widow of Andalousia, but he could not make me the Happiest.  
I would not return to Sevill, where my Parents would have had me been; and to avoid it, I pretended a Journey farther into the Country, to look after some part of my Estate. I set out; but there being a particular Fatality in whatever relates to me, in arriving at an Inn, the first Object which struck my sight, was the Unfaithful Mendez: he was in deep Mourning, and had lost nothing of whatever made me heretofore fancy him too Lovely. It is impossible to express the Condition I was in, for endeavouring to get speedily from him, I found myself so weak and trembling, that I fell at his Feet. Although he knew me not at that instant, yet he earnestly endeavoured to raise me up; but the great Veil under which I was concealed, flying open, what became of him in seeing me? He remained no less confused than I was: he would have drawn near to me, but casting a furious Look on him: Darest thou, Perjured Wretch! said I to him, darest thou approach me! Art thou not afraid of the just Punishment of thy Perfidiousness? He was some time without answering me, and I was about leaving him when he stopped me: Confound and over-whelm me with Reproaches, Madam, said he to me: Give me the worst and most perfidious Names as is possible; they cannot be more than I deserve: But my Death shall soon revenge your Quarrel: I ought to die with Sorrow for having betrayed you; and if I regret any thing in dying, it is only the having one Life to lose, to expiate all the Crimes you can justly accuse me of. He appeared to me much affected in ending these words; and would to Heavens his Repentance were really sufficient and true! I would not hazard a longer Conversation with him: I left him, disdaining to return him an Answer. And this Mark of Contempt and Slighting, was, without doubt, more sensible to him, than all the Reproaches I might have made him.  
He had some time since lost his Wife, that Unfaithful Creature, who had helped him to Revolt against all the Offices of Love, Honour, and Gratitude. And from that time he followed me : he was like a Complaining Shadow, ever fastened to my Feet; for he became so lean, pale, and changed, that he was no longer discernible. Heavens! Madam, what Violence did I not offer myself, in continuing to ill Treat him: I found at last I wanted Strength to resist the Weakness of my Heart, and the Ascendant this Wretch had over me. Rather than to commit so shameful an Offence, and to Forgive him, I parted for Madrid, where I have Relations, and sought among them a Shelter against the Violence of mine own Inclinations.  
I was not there long but Mendez found me out: I must confess to you, I was not hearty displeased at his Attendance on me; but maugre my Inclinations towards him, I put on a firm Resolution to avoid him, seeing I could not sincerely hate him; and unknown to every Body, I took the Road to Burgos ' where I am going to Cloister myself with a Religious there, my Friend. I flatter myself, Madam, with the Hopes of finding more Rest there, than I have hitherto met with.  
The Beautiful Marchioness here held her peace; and I testified to her my particular Acknowledgements for the Favour she had done me: I assured her of the part I took in her Adventures: I conjured her to write to me, and to let me hear from her at Madrid; and she promised it me in the most obliging manner as is possible.  
We found the next Morning we could not set out, it having snowed all the Night, and no Path appearing on the Ground; but we wanted not Company to pass the time in Play and Discourse. Having been three days with the Marchioness de Los Rios, without any Weariness at the length of the Time, through the pleasure I had of seeing and hearing her talk, (for she is one of the most lovely Women in the World:) We parted with a mutual Regret, and it was not without doubling our Promises of writing to, and seeing one another hereafter.  
The Wether mended, and I continued on my Journey to Lerma: We had traversed dreadful Mountains, which bear the Name of Sierra de Cogollos, and it was not without great trouble we got thither: This Town is small; she has given her Name to the famous Cardinal de Lerma, Chief Minister to Philip III: it is from him that Philip iv took the great Revenues he had received from the King his Master. Here is a Castle which I will see to Morrow, and of which I shall give you an Account in my next, I am told an Extraordinary Express is arrived, and will set out to Night: I will lay hold of this Opportunity of sending to you, and ending this long Letter; for in truth I am tired both with the Way, and with Writing, but I shall never be weary of Loving you.  
From Lerma, Mar. 5. 1679.    

A RELATION OF A Voyage to SPAIN, IN Several Letters. PART. II.  

LETTER. V  
MY Last was so long, and I was so weary when I ended it, that I could not add some Particulars, which probably might not have been unwelcome to you. I proceed then (dear Kinswoman) ro recount them, seeing you so much desire it.  
I arrived late at Lerma, and resolved to tarry some time to see the Castle, which the Spaniards so highly esteem, that they prise it next the Escurial; and it is indeed a very fine place. The Cardinal de Lerma, Philip the Third's Favourite, was its Founder. It stands on the side of an Hill, and in your way to it you must pass through a spacious place, surrounded with Arches and Galleries about it. This Castle consists of four vast Piles of building, which makes a complete Quadrangle of two Ranges of Porches within the Court, which are near as high as the Roof, and hinder the Apartments from Prospects on that side. The Windows of all the Chambers look forward into the Country; the Rooms are spacious, and the Lodgings very fine and curiously gilded. There are a prodigious number of them, and very well furnished. Near the Castle you have a great Park which extends itself along the Plain, through which runs a River, and several lesser Springs: On the side of the River, there are rows of great Trees, and not far hence a Wood, so that, I believe, in fine weather this is a delightful place.  
The Keeper of the Castle asked me, whether I would see the Religioses, whose Convent is adjoining thereunto. I told him most willingly; so that he made us pass through a Gallery, at the end of which you meet with a Grate which reaches from top to bottom. The Abbess, having been advertised of it, came here with several Religioses, who were very entertaining, handsome, witty and young, and discoursing with great exactness of every thing. I was not weary of their Conversation, when a young Girl came and whispered the Abbess in the Ear, who afterwards told me there was a Lady of great Quality, who had retired into their House, being the Daughter of Don Mandrica de Lara, Count de Valine, and eldest Son to the Duke de Naxara; That she was Widow of Don Francisco Fernandez de Castro, Count de Lemos, Grandee of Spain, and Duke de Tauresano; that when she knew of French Ladies passing through Lerma, she was greatly desirous of Entertaining them. I made answer, I should be glad of the honour of seeing her: Whereupon this young Girl was sent to her.  
This Lady soon came in a Dress used by the Spaniards this hundred years; she had a kind of Pattens on, or rather Stilts, which made her look prodigious Tall, so that she was fain to lean on two persons shoulders when she moved. She leaned likewise on two Daughters of the Marquis del Carpio; one of them is of a very fair Complexion, which is rare in this Country, and the others Hair is as black as Jet. Their Beauty surprised me, and they wanted only, in my mind, to be a little fat. But this is not reckoned a Defect in this Country, where they fancy leanness so much, that they desire only to have Skin and Bone. The singular Dress of the Countess de Lemos, appeared to me so extraordinary, that I could hardly get mine eyes off of it. She wore a kind of black Satin Gold embroidered Bodice, and buttoned with great Rubies of considerable value. This Bodice came down from her Neck just like a Doublet; her Sleeves were straight, with large Wings about her shoulders, and other Sleeves hanging as low as her Gown, which were fastened on each side with Roses of Diamonds; She had a dreadful Virdingal, which hindered her from sitting, otherwise then on the Ground. She wore a Ruff, and several Chains of great Pearls and Diamonds; her Hair was white, which she hide under a Coverture of black Lace, for she was no less than 75 years old. She seemed to me to have been a great Beauty in her time; her face had not a wrinkle, and her eyes were still sparkling, and her white and red Paint became her very well: Her Wit and her Personage, as I have been told, were not a little famous in the World. I looked upon her as a curious Piece of Antiquity.  
She told me she had the honour to Accompany the Infanta when she espoused Lewis the Thirteenth. That she became acquainted with the Prince of Conde when he was in Flanders, and the Queen of Sweden came thither. You have seen this Queen, said I to her, interrupting her, be pleased, Madam, to favour me with a Relation of some Particulars of her humour.  
You must know then, said she, that the King of Spain sent Don Antonio Pimentel in quality of Ambassador to Stockholm, to discover, as much as in him lay, the Intentions of the Swedes. They had been long Enemies to the House of Austria, and it was not doubted but they would make new Attempts to thwart it, in the design of making the Emperor's Son King of the Romans; Pimentel was charged to carry on this Affair with great Circumspection. He was a gallant, witty and handsome Person, and he succeeded better than could be expected. He immediately discovered the Queen's Genius, and easily made himself her Confident. He soon perceived she was mightily charmed with Novelties, and that of the crowd of Strangers which she drew to the Court, the last come was the most favoured. He made it his Task to please her, and gained so far on her Affections, that he became informed by herself of the most secret Affairs, and which she ought the most to conceal from him. But what cannot he do, who has found a way to the heart. The Queen's was so inclined to him, that he became the sole Disposer of the Affections of this Princess, and by this means was able to write to the Emperor, and to the Electors, things so certain and agreeable, as made 'em easily judge that the Queen of Sweedland's Council had no part in the Declaration she made in favour of the King of Hungary.  
This Intrigue being at an end, 'twas thought the King would recall Pimentel, there appearing no occasion requiring the Presence of an Ambassador: But if it were needless for the King of Spain that he should remain at Stockholm, 'twas not the same with the Queen, she neglecting nothing whereby to retain him near her. He attended her wherever she went since, and many, who were led by outward Appearances, judged when she left the Crown to her Cousin, she did it with great Satisfaction, because she did it with dry Eyes, and had the Courage to harangue the States with great Force and Eloquence; but the People were greatly mistaken in the secret Motives of this Princess. Her soul at that time was pierced with the most lovely sorrow; she was not a little grieved to yield to the Prince Palatine a Sceptre which she thought herself worthy to wield alone, and of which she was the lawful Heiress.  
This Prince had the Address to get it declared, that if she married she should choose him for her Husband.  
Assoon as this Declaration was made, she began to feel the weight of the subjection wherein she was placed; and on the other hand, the People did not well relish the being governed by a Woman. They insisted more on her Defects than they minded her Virtues. The Prince contributed underhand thereto, and the Queen, who was penetrating soon perceived it; she observed the Inclination the People had to him, and the wishes which were made to see him on the Throne; she grew every day more and more jealous of this, and past from hence to such a deadly Hatred, that 'twas impossible for her to stop the Course of it. The Prince's presence became so insupportable to her, that perceiving it, he withdrew into an Island which belonged to him. But he set not out till he had left good Memoires to his Creatures against the Queen's Conduct.  
When she saw herself delivered from an Object, whose sight was so great an Eyesore, she drew off her Mind from the too intent pursuit of the Affairs of the Kingdom, and gave way to her Inclinations to Books. Her marvellous Wit made, in a short time, admirable Progresses in the most profound Sciences; but these were not so needful to her as a good Conduct in the management of her Honour and Interest. It often happens, that having spent several days in her Study, she would appear disgusted with her Books, saying, They were good for nothing but to waste the Spirits, and misled men's Judgements. When the Great Men of the Court saw her in this Disposition, they approached her with more familiarity, and then the whole Business was to follow the Pleasures of Love, of Plays, Balls, Attorneys, Hunt, and all other Diversions. She gave up herself entirely to them, and nothing could bring her off them; but she added to this Defect that of enriching Strangers, at the Expense of her own Subjects.  
The Swedes began to murmur at this; the Queen was advertised of it; their Complaints appeared to be unjust, and little respectful; and being not a little offended at them, she was so unwise as to take Vengeance on herself. In effect, at the time when 'twas lest expected, and when she was in a Condition to find less violent Remedies, she abandoned at one stroke her Crown and Kingdom to her Cousin; to this Cousin, I say, whom she was so far from loving, that she wished him all the ill she was able; and yet to whom she did so much good, she thought 'twas impossible for any to penetrate into the Motives of this. She pretended by this great stroke of Generosity, to distinguish herself from among the Heroina's of the most famous Ages: But in effect, the Conduct she held afterwards, distinguished her only to her Disadvantage.  
She was seen to set out from Swedeland in a very odd Dress for a Woman, with a kind of Justaucorps, a short Petticoat, with Boots and Cravat, in a Periwig, a Hat covered with Feathers, and this Periwig tied up in a lock behind which seemed then very ridiculous. She forbade all her Women to folfow her, choosing only Men to serve her, and attend her. She was wont ordinarily to say, That she did not love Men as Men, but because they were not Women. So that she seemed to have renounced her Sex in renouncing her States, although she had sometimes such Weaknesses as would have made the meanest Women ashamed.  
The trusty Pimentel passed over into Flanders with her, and I being then there, continueth she, I saw him arrive; he procured me the honour to kiss her hand, and there needed no less than his Credit to obtain this; for she sent word to all the Ladies of Brussels and Antwerpt, she would excuse them for their Visits. Yet she received me very well, and the little she said to me, appeared full of Wit and extraordinary Vivacity; but she swore at every turn like a Soldier, and her Words and Actions were so free, not to say so dishonest, that were it not for her Rank, her Person would have been little regarded.  
She spoke before every Body of the passionate desire she had to see the Prince of Conde; that his great Actions had charmed her, and that she was desirous to learn the Trade of War under him. The Prince had no less desire to see her, than she testified to see him. In the midst of this mutual Impatience, the Queen stopped on a sudden on some Formalities and Steps which she refused to take, when he should come to salute her. These Reasons hindered him from seeing her with the usual Ceremonies. But one day, when the Queen's Chamber was full of Courtiers, the Prince slipped therein; whether she had seen his Picture, or that his Martial Air had distinguished him from among others, she had singled him out, and knew him. She would immediately hereupon have testified as much to him, by extraordinary Civilities. He presently retired, and she followed to conduct him. Then he stopped, and contented himself with saying these words, Either All, or Nothing. Some few days after, an Interview was set on foot to be between them in the Mall in the Park at Brussels, where they spoke together with great Civility and much Coldness.  
As to Don Antonio Pimentel, the Favours she has had for him, have, made noise enough to come to your Ears, and if you be ignorant of 'em, Madam, I believe I ought not to undertake to learn you the Particulars, of which perhaps I myself may have been ill informed. She held her peace, and I made my profit of this moment to thank her for complaisance in giving me an account of a Queen, who had ever given me such a great Curiosity. She asked me afterwards, whether I had seen the Castle of Lerma. He that build it, said she, was Favourite to Philip the Third, whose Death happened very strangely. This Prince, continued she, was writing Letters in his Closet, and it being very cold that day, they had placed very near him a quick fire of Coals, whose reverberation struck so much on his face, that he was all in water, as if a great quantity of it had been poured on his Head. The easiness of his temper hindered him from complaining, and even speaking of it; for he never found fault with any thing. The Marquis de Pobar having observed the incommodiousness which the King received by this extreme heat, advertised the Duke d' Alva's Gentleman of his Chamber of it, to the end he might remove the Fire away: He replied, It was not his Office, and that the Duke Duesda ought to be made acquainted with it, whose proper Business it was. The Marquis de Pobar being troubled to see the King thus suffer, and not daring himself to ease him, for fear of invading fewer Province, left the fire still in its place; but he sent to give notice of it to the Duke Duesda, who was by Misfortune gone near Madrid to see a stately House he was there building. Word was brought of this again to the Marquis de Pobar, who proposed again to the Duke de Alva the taking away the fire. But he found him inflexible hereunto, and chose rather to send into the Country, to the Duke Duesda, so that before he was come, the King was almost spent, and that very Night he fell into a violent Fever, accompanied with an Erisipellis, which inflamed, and the Inflammation degenerated into the Purples, which caused his Death.  
I must confess, said she, that having seen when I was abroad in the World, other Courts besides our own, I could not forbear blaming these kind of Ceremonies and Punctilios which hinder the taking of one step faster than another, though life depended thereon. The old Countess of Lemo's loved to talk, and continuing her Discourse, and among other names mentioned that of the Count de Villa Mediana, I have heard, said I, interrupting her, that this Gentleman, being one day in the Church of our Lady d' Arocha, and finding there a Religio's, who begged for the Souls of Purgatory, he gave him a piece of four pounds. Ah my, Lord, said the good Father, you have now delivered a Soul. The Count drew out again alike piece, and put it into the Basin. Here's, continued the Religio, another Soul delivered: He gave him in this manner six, one after another, and at the dropping of each piece, the Monk cried Here's a Soul delivered from Purgatory. Will you be positive in it, replied the Count. Yes, my Lord, replied the Monk, I am certain they are now in Heaven. Give me now then back again my six pieces, said, he, for they signify nothing to you, seeing the Souls are already got to Heaven, there's no danger of their returning again to Purgatory. It was as you relate, added the Countess, but he took not again his Money, for this would have been among us an horrid Sacrilege. And I knew a man of good quality, who being much behind in the World, yet when he was dying, would have fifteen thousand Masses to be said for him. His last Will was executed, and his poor Creditors defrauded; for how just soever their Debts be, they can expect to receive nothing, till such time as all the Masses which are left in the Will be said. And this has given occasion to that common saying among us, That such a one has made his Soul his Heir; whereby is meant, that he has left his Estate to the Church to say Prayers for him.  
King Philip the Fourth ordered in his Will an hundred thousand Masses to be said for him; farther declaring, That should he cease needing them, they should serve for his Father and Mother; and in case they were got to Heaven, they should be applied to the Souls of those who were slain in the Wars of Spain.  
But what I have already told you of the Count de Villa Mediana, brings to my mind, that he being one day at Church with Queen Elizabeth, he saw a great deal of Money on the Altar, which was given for the Souls in Purgatory. He drew near, and took it up in his hand, saying, My Love will last for ever, my Pains will be likewise Eternal, those of the Souls in Purgatory will have an end; alas, mine will never end! This hope comforts them; as for me, I am without hope and comfort, so that these Charities are more due to me, than they. However, he took nothing away, only speaking these words as an occasion to bring in his Passion before this beautiful Queen, who was there present: For in effect, his was so violent for her, that there is some reason to think she was not wholly insensible of it, if her rigid Virtue had not preserved her heart against the Count's Merit. He was young, well shaped, handsome, brave, magnificent, gallant and witty; every Body knows how he appeared to his Misfortune in a Carosel at Madrid, with a Suit embroidered with pieces of new Money, called reals, and which he bore for a Device; MIS AMORES SON REALES. making an allusion to the word Reales, which is to say Royal, with the Passion he had for the Queen. This is finer in Spanish, and signifies in English, My Love is Royal.  
The Count Duke d' Olivarez, the King's Favourite, and the secret Enemy of the Queen and the Count, made his Master take notice of the boldness of a Subject, who dared even in his Presence declare the Sentiments he had for the Queen; and in this moment he persuaded the King to be revenged on him. An occasion was waited for which should make no noise. But here's what hastened his ruin; applying his Mind only to divert the Queen, he wrote a Comedy which every Body likes, and the Queen, more than others, found therein such moving and delicate strokes in it, that she would act apart in it herself on the King's Birthday. It was the Amorous Count who managed and took care of the Festival; he ordered the , and provided Machine's, which cost him above Thirty thousand Crowns. He had caused a great Cloud to be painted, under which the Queen was concealed in a Machine. He stood very near it, and at a certain sign he gave a Man who was faithful to him, he set fire to the linen work of the Cloud. The whole House, valued at an hundred thousand Crowns, was in a manner consumed; but he comforted himself, when making his advantage of this favourable Opportunity, he took his Sovereign in his Arms, carried her into a little by-place, and there stole from her some Favours; and that which is much taken notice of in this Country, is that he touched her foot. A little Page who saw him, informed the Count Duke of it, he did not doubt but when he saw the fire, but this was an effect of the Count's Passion. He made such an exact Enquiry, that he laid before the King certain Proofs of it; and his Proofs so greatly enraged the King, that 'tis pretended he caused him to be shot with a Pistol one night, as he was in his Coach with Don Lewis de Haro.  
Here's a very Tragical end, said I to her, interrupting her; but whilst, said she, I am speaking to you of Philip the Fourth, I cannot but I must tell you, that he was vehemently in love with the Duchess Dalburkerke. He could never meet with a favourable opportunity of Entertaining her. The Duke her Husband kept strict guard over her, and the more Obstacles the King met with, the more his Desires increased; but when Night came, and when he was at play, he feigned to call to mind he had a Letter to write of the greatest consequence. He called the Duke Dalburkerke, who was in his Chamber, and desired him to take his place, and continue his Game. He immediately hereupon entered into his Closet, disguised himself, and went down by a back Stairs, and came to the young Duchess with the Count Duke his Favourite.  
The Duke Dalburkerke, whose mind ran on his Domestic Interests more than on his Game, easily believed his Master would not have committed it to him, without some secret Design. He began then to complain of an horrid Colic, and uttering Cries and making Faces enough to fright one, he gave the Cards to another, and without any stop run home. The King had only just arrived there without any Train, he was then in the Court, and seeing the Duke come he hid himself; but there is nothing so clear sighted as a jealous Husband. He perceived the King, and being not willing to have Lights brought that he might not be obliged to acknowledge him, he made up to him with a great Cane which he commonly walked with: Ha! Ha! Villain, said, he to him, thou comest to rob my House; and without more words he laid on him with all his strength. The Count Duke was no more spared, who fearing least worse might happen, cried, out several times, 'Twas the King, to stop the Duke's Fury: but this was so far from effecting it, that he redoubled his blows both on the Prince and his Minister, crying in his turn, That this was a stroke of the greatest Insolence, to make use of his Majesty's Name and his Favourites in such an occasion, that he could find in his heart to send 'em to the Palace, because he well knew the King would cause 'em to be hanged. In all this Fray the King said not a word, and at length got away half mad, in having received so many blows, and not one favour from his Mistress.  
This produced no ill Consequences to the Duke Dalburkerke; but on the contrary the King being cured of his Love to the Duchess, made a Jest of it some time after. I know not whether I do not abuse your patience by the length of this Conversation, added the Countess de Lemos, and I fall insensible into the defect of persons of my Age, who forget themselves when they tell of things done in their time. I saw she was for retiring, and having again thanked her for the honour she had done me, I took my leave of her, and returned to my Inn.  
The Wether was so foul, that we with great difficulty set out, but being resolved on it, we marched as long as the day lasted, falling down and getting up as well as we could. We could hardly see four Paces before us, the Storm was so great, that it blew off several Stones off the Rocks, which fell into our way, and hurt one of our Company; he had been killed, had he not stepped on one side. In fine, after having made about eight Leagues, according to our reckoning, we were much astonished to find ourselves at the Gates of Lerma, without having advanced or gone back. We had still turned about the Town, without perceiving it, as it were by Enchantment, sometimes farther, sometimes nearer, and we were all of us not a little out of humour at having taken so much pains to so little purpose.  
The Hostess transported at the sight of us, she who could have been glad with all her heart we should thus Travel as long as we lived, to return to lie at her House every night, tarried for me at the top of her little Staircase. She told me she was very sorry she could not let me have my Room again, but would give me another commodious enough, and that mine was taken up by a Seignora, the greatest in Spain. Don Fernand asked her name, she told him, she was called Donna Eleonor of Toledo; he as soon informed me she was his near Kinswoman. He could not comprehend by what chance she should come there.  
To be satisfied in the matter, he sent his Gentleman to make her a Compliment, and to know whether his visit would not be troublesome. She sent word she had a great Satisfaction at this happy Meeting, and that he would do her a great deal of honour. He went up immediately to her Chamber, and was informed by her of several particulars which related to him. He came afterwards to me, and told me very civilly, That where not Donna Eleonar excessive weary and indisposed, she would have given me the first Visit. I in short, desired him to conduct me to her Chamber, where she received me in a most obliging manner; and I observed in the first moment of our Conversation, that she had a great deal of Wit and Politeness. I found her very neat and handsome, her Eyes were lively and so glistering, that one could not without pain endure their brightness. Don Fernand told her who I was, and that I went to see one of my near Relations at Madrid. Her name was not unknown to her, no more than her Person, she told me 'twas not long since the King had made her Titularia and Marchioness of Castille. I should be greatly obliged to you, Madam, said I to her, interrupting her, if you would be pleased to give me some Account of this title, she having mentioned it in her Letters, without explaining to me what it means, no more than that of Grandee, etc.  
I shall take a pleasure to inform you of what I know, replied Donna Eleonora, and I have always heard, that in the time of the first Kings, Doviedo, de Galicia and Asturia, they were elected by the Prelates of the Kingdom, and by the Ricos-homes. These Lords having not yet obtained the Titles of Dukes, Marquess' and Counts, which distinguished them from Gentlemen, they were called Ricos-homes, which were as the Grandees of Spain now. The Ricos-homes, stood covered before the King, entered among the States, and had their Active and Passive voice. And the Tituladoes at present, are the same which were then called Ricos-homes; but their Privileges are not so large, and most of these Honours, as I shall tell you, have been reserved to the Grandees of Spain. The Tituladoes may have a Canopy or Cloth of State in their Chamber, a Coach in Madrid with four Horses, with los tiros largos, which are long Traces of Silk, which fasten the last Horses to the foremost. When there are Bull-Feasts, they have Balconies in the great place, where their Wives are regaled with Baskets full of Sweeetmeats, Gloves, Ribbons, Fans, Silk-hofe, and this at the King or Towns charge, which gives the Feast. They have their Seat set out in the Ceremonies, and when the King makes a Titulado, Marquis of Castille, Arragon, or Grenada, he enters into the States of this Kingdom.  
As to the Grandees, there are three different Ranks of them; and the manner in which the King speaks to 'em in making them, distinguishes them. The one are those whom he bids be covered, without adding any thing thereto; their Grandeur is only fixed to their Person, and is not conserved to their Family.  
The others, whom the King qualifies with the Title of one of their Lands; as for Example, Duke or Marquis of such a place, Cover yourself, for you, and for yours, are Grandees in a more advantageous manner than the first, because their Grandeur being fixed to their Estates, passes to their eldest Son, and if they have none, to their Daughter or Heir.  
The last are not covered till after they have spoken to the King; and the difference between these is observed in saying, They are Grandees for Life, or in their Race. It is farther to be observed, That there are some whom the King makes be covered before they speak to him, in saying to 'em Cubridos; and they spoke, and hear the King speak, ever covered. Others, who are only covered after they have spoke to him, and he has answered them. And the third, who are only covered when they have withdrawn themselves from the King towards the Wall; but when they be altogether in public Offices, or at Chapel, there is no difference between them, they sit down and are covered before him. And when he writes to them, he treats them as if they were Princes, they have the Title of Excellency given them. When their Wives go to the Queen, she receives them standing, and instead of sitting on the Foot-cloth, they have Cushions brought 'em to sit on.  
Here's Madam, continued Donna Eleonora, what you desired to know; after due thanks for her Civility, the hour of withdrawing being come, I took my leave of her, entreating her to continue me in her Friendship.  
I arose before day, because we had a great Journey to make to lie at Aranda de Duero. The Wether growing milder, it became very misty, which at length turned to Rain; and in arriving at Night, our Host told us we were very welcome to him, but we must make a shift without Bread. This is, replied I, a thing one cannot easily be without. And in effect, this News put me a little out of humour. I enquired how happened this Scarcity; 'twas answered me, The Alcaid Major of the Town (who is he that order every thing) and who is both Governor and Judge, had sent for all the Bread and Meal which was at the Bakers, and had brought it into his House to make an equal Distribution of it, proportionable to the Necessities of each particular Person, and that what had occasioned this, was that the River of Duero, which passes about the Town, was frozen, and the Rivers of Leon, Suegra, Burgos, Tormes and Salamanca, which throw and lose themselves therein, had likewise ceased their Courses, so that no Mills could grind, which made 'em apprehend a Famine: This obliged us to address ourselves to him for to have the Bread we needed. Don Fernand sent him one of his Gentlemen in the Name of us all, and immediately we had so much Bread sent us, that we gave part to our Host and his Family, who much wanted it.  
Scarce were we at Table, when one of my Servants brought into my Chamber several Packets of Letters, which they had found on the Stairs in the Inn. He that carried them having drank more than he needed, had fallen there asleep, by which means all his Letters lay exposed to the Curiosity of all that past by. Here is in this Country a very ill order touching Commerce, and when the French Currier arrives at St. Sebastian, all the Letters he brings are delivered to others who are good Footmen, and ease one another. They put these Packets into a Sack, tied with rotten Cords to their shoulders, by which means it oft happens, that the secrets of your Heart and Family are open to the first curious Body who makes drunk this Foot-post; and this is what happened in this Occasion; for Don Frederic de Cardonne having looked on the Superscriptions of several Letters, he at last met with one from a Lady in whom he was apparently interessed, at least I so judged from the emotion of his Countenance, and the earnestness with which he opened the Packet. He read the Letter, and was willing to show it me without telling me from whom it came, nor for whom it was; but he promised to inform me further about it at Madrid; finding it well writ, it came into my mind, that you would be perhaps glad to see the style of a Spanish Lady, when she writes to what she loves. I prayed the Knight to let me take a Copy of it; but 'tis certain the Translation takes away much of the beauty of the Original. Here it is.  
EVery thing contributes to afflict me in the unfortunate Embassy you have undertaken, not to mention that distance is the bane of the strongest Friendship. I cannot flatter myself, that a Rupture between the Sovereigns, may abridge the time of your absence, and restore me a Good without which I can no longer live. Of all the Princes of Europe, he to whom you are sent, is the most at Union with us. I can foresee no War with him, and this Scourge with which Heaven punishes the guilty, would be to me a thousand times more welcome than Peace: Yes, I would be glad to bear alone all the Disasters of it, to see my Lands wasted, my Houses burnt, to lose my Estate and my Liberty, provided we could be together, and that without your share in my Disgraces, I could enjoy the pleasure of seeing you; you may judge by these Dispositions of the Condition I am in, when I think that you are really going away, that I remain at Madrid, that I dare not follow you, that my Duty stiffes immediately the Projects I might make to comfort myself, and that I lose you, in fine, in a time wherein I have most reason to be persuaded of yours, and wherein I feel more the Marks you gave me of it; I should conceal from you my Grief, and add none to yours; but how can I weep and weep without you. Alas, Alas! I shall be soon forced to weep alone, are you not afraid so lively an Affliction will kill me, and can you not feign yourself sick, that you may not leave me; think of all the Advantages which are included in this Proposition; but I am a Fool to make it you, you will prefer the King's Orders before mine, and 'twould bring me into new Vexations to put you on such a proof. Adieu, I ask you nothing, because I have too much to ask you; I was never so afflicted.  
As I ended the Translating this Letter which I send you, the Alcade's Son came to see me; he was a young man who had a good Opinion of himself, and who was a true Guap. Let not this word offend you, (dear Cousin) Guap is the same in Spanish, as a brave Gallant and Spark is with us; his Hair was parted on the Crown of his Head, and tied behind with a blue Ribond about four finger's breadth, and about two yards long, which hung down at its full length; his Breeches were of black Velvet, buttoned down on each Knee with five or six Buttons; he had a Vest on so short, that it scarce reached below his Pockets, a Scollopt Doublet with hanging sleeves about four finger's breadth, made of white embroidered Satin. His Cloak was of black Bays, and he being a Spark, had wrapped it round his Arm, because this is more gallant, with a very light Buckler in his hand, and which has standing out in the midst a steel Pike; they carried it with 'em when they walk in the Night on any Occasion, he held in the other hand a Sword longer than an Half-pike, and the Iron for its Guard was enough to make a Breast and Back-plate. These Swords being so long that they cannot be drawn out, unless a Man has the Arms of a Giant; the Sheaf therefore flies open in laying the finger on a little Spring. He had likewise a Dagger, whose Blade was very narrow, it was fastened to his Belt on his back; he had such a straight Collar, that he could neither stoop nor turn about his Head. Nothing can he more ridiculous than what they wear about their Necks, for it is neither a Ruff nor a Band, nor a Cravat. His Hat was a prodigious size, with a great Band twisted about it, bigger than a mourning one. His Shoes were of as fine Leather as that whereof Gloves are made, and all slashed and cut, notwithstanding the cold, and so exactly close to his Feet, that they seemed rather pasted on, and having no Heels. He made me in entering a Reverence after the Spanish fashion, his two Legs cross one another, and lowly stooping as Women do when they Salute one another; he was strongly perfumed, and they are all so; his visit was not long; he was very brisk; he forgot not to tell me he went oft to Madrid, and that there were no Courses of Bulls wherein he ventured not his life. But as the little care which was taken of Letters, run in my mind, and troubled me; I told him of the Courier whom my People had found asleep on the Stairs. He answered me, this happened from the neglect of the great Postmaster, or to speak better, in that he would gain too much, and that if the King knew of it, he would not suffer it. This Name of Great Postmaster made me inquire of him, whether any one road Post in Spain. He told me, yes; provided they had the King's leave, or of the Great-Master, who is always a Person of a distinct Birth; and that unless you have an Order well signed, and in good form, you can have no Horses. But, said I to him, A Man who has fought a Duel, or has other Reasons to hasten away; What does he? Nothing, Madam, said he to me, if he has good Horses he makes use of them; and if he has not, he is perplexed enough; but when one will go Post, and parts not directly from Madrid, it is sufficient to take a Billet from the Alcade, which is to say, Governor of the Towns where you pass. My Curiosity being satisfied on this Subject, the gallant Spaniard withdrew, and we supped altogether, as we were wont.  
I had been some time in Bed and asleep, when I was awakened by the ringing of Bells, and by a confused Noise of dreadful Voices. I knew not as yet what was the Cause, when Don Fernand de Toledo, and Don Frederic de Cardonna, without knocking at my Door, burst it open, and calling out to me, as loud as they could to make me hear (for they had no Light) came both of them to my Bed, and throwing my Gown upon me, they carried me away, with my Daughter, as quick as they could to the top of the House. It is impossible to represent to you my astonishment and fear, I asked them at length, what was the matter? They told me the Thaw was come down all of a sudden, with such a great violence, that the Rivers, being swelled by the Torrents which fell from all sides of the Mountains, with which the Town is surrounded, had fallen on it, and overflowed it, that at the instant when they came to take me, the Water had already got to my Chamber, and that all was in horrid Confusion, they needed say no more, for I heard dreadful Cries and Shrieks, and the Water shook the whole House. I was never so seized with Fear in all my life; I affectionately regretted my dear Country! Alas! said I, I have travelled along way to come to drown myself on the fourth Story of an Inn in Aranda. All Raillery apart, I thought seriously my last hour was come, and I was so troubled, that I was twenty times thinking to entreat these Gentlemen to hear me in Confession. I believe that in the sequel they would have more laughed at it than I. We were till Day in continual Alarms; but the Alcade, and the Inhabitants of the Town so speedily and effectually bestirred themselves in turning aside the Torrents, and making the Waters pass, that we were only affrighted; two of our Mules were drowned; my Litters and  were so soaked in Water, that to dry them, we were forced to tarry one whole Day; and this was no easy matter, for there are no Chimneys in the Inns, they heated the Oven, and put my  in it. I can assure you, I have not gained any thing in this unhappy Inundation: I lay down after this or to speak better, I bathed myself, my Bed being as wet as any thing else.  
My fellow Travellers thought fit to let me rest a little; I have employed one part of my leisure time in writing to you. Adieu dear Cousin; it is time to finish: I am ever, more yours than any Bodies in the World.  
From Aranda de Duero, this 9th of March.   

LETTER VI.  
THE Exactness I observe in giving you an Account of things which I judge worthy of your Curiosity, puts me often times on Inquiries into several Particulars which I should have otherwise omitted, had you not persuaded me that you are a great Lover of Novelties, and that you love to Travel without going out of your Closet.  
We parted from Aranda in a time of Thaw, which as it rendered the Air warmer, so it made the ways more troublesome. We came a while after to the Mountain de Samozierra, which parts the Old Castille from the New; and we Traversed it not without difficulty, as well for its height, as the quantity of Snow, with which the Bottoms were filled, and into which we sometimes fell as from Precipices, believing the way even. They call this Pass the Puerto, which Name methinks should be only given to a part, where one Embarks on the Sea, or a River; but it is thus, they call the Passage from one Kingdom to another, and you make your way to your Cost, for the King's Officers wait for Travellers in the Road, and let 'em not go till they have paid what they require.  
In arriving at Buitrago, we were as wet as the night of the Inundation at Aranda, and tho' I kept my Litter, I felt no less the Incommodiousness of the Wether than if I had been on foot or Horseback, because the Litters are so ill closed and made in this Country, that when the Mules pass through any Water, they throw up with their Feet part of the Water into the Litter, which there remains. So that I was forced in arriving, to change my Linen and : afterwards Don Fernand, the three Knights, my Daughter, and my Women, went with me to the Castle I had been so often told of.  
It appeared to me as regularly built as that of Lerma, not so large, but every whit as pleasant: The Apartments are better contrived, and the Furniture is richer and very singular as well for its Antiquity as Magnificence. This Castle, as well as that of Lerma, belongs to Don Rodrigo de Silva de Mendosa, Duke de Pastrana and the L'infantada. His Mother's Name is Donna Katherine de Mendosa & Sandoval, Heiress of the Dutchy's of Infantada and Lerma. It descends from Father to Son of Ruy Gomes de Silua, who was made Duke of Pastrana, and Prince of Eboly by King Philip the Second. This Princess d'Eboly, who has been so much talked of for her Beauty, was his Wife, and the King was passionately in love with her: They showed me her Picture; she is represented at her whole length, sitting under a Tent fastened to some Boughs of Trees; she seems as if she were rising, for she has only a fine Linnen-cloth on her, which lets one part of her Body be seen. If she were as handsome as her Picture makes her, and if her Features were so regular, she must be judged the most charming Woman in the World; her Eyes are so lively and full of Spirit, that it seems as if she was about speaking to you; her Neck, Arms, Feet and Legs are naked; her Hair falls down on her Breasts, and little Cupid's which appear every where about her, press on one another to serve her, some had her Slippers, others are ready to strew flowers on her, and some hold her looking Glass. Others are seen farther off, who are sharpening their Arrows, whilst others fill their Quivers with them, and bend their Bow: A Fawn looks on her through Boughs, she sees him and shows him to a little Cupid, who is leaning on her Knees, and weeps as if he were afraid of it, at which she seems to smile. I remained a great while looking on this Picture with the greatest pleasure; but I was made to pass into a Gallery, where I saw her again. She was painted in a large Piece attending Queen Elizabeth, Daughter to Henry the Second King of France whom Philip the Second, King of Spain espoused, instead of giving her to Don Carlos his Son, to whom she had been promised. The Queen made her Entrance on Horseback, as 'tis the Custom, and I found the Princess Eboly less shining near her than she appeared to me when alone. You may hereby judge of the Charms of this young Queen; she had a blue Satin Gown, but as to the rest, just as I represented to you the Countess of Lemos. The King stood in a Balcony to see her pass by. He had a black Suit with a Collar of the Golden Fleece, his Hair reddish and grey, long visage, pale, old, wrinkled and ugly. The Infant Don Carlos accompanied the Queen, he was very white, a fine head, his Hair of a light yellow, his Eyes blue, and he looked on the Queen with so moving an Air, that it appeared the Painter knew the secret of his heart, and would express it: His Habit was white, embroidered with precious Stones; he was in his Doublet, with his Hat bottoned upon one side, and covered with white Feathers. I saw in the same Gallery another piece which much affected me, which was the Prince Don Carlos dying, he was sitting in a Chair, leaning on his Arm on a Table before him, holding a Pen in his Hand, as if he would have wrote something; there was a Vessel by him, wherein appeared a sort of black Liquor, which apparently was designed for Poison. A little further you see the Bath preparing for him, where his Veins were to be opened; the Painter had perfectly well represented the Confusion of so sad an Occasion, and having read his History, and being much affected with it, methoughts I saw him really dying. I was told these Pieces were of inestimable value. I was afterwards conducted into a Chamber, whose Furniture had belonged to the  Marguerita of Austria, Governess of the Low Countries; and it is pretended she had worked it herself, there is a neatly wrought Bed of Flowers, Woods, Animals, and Feathers of all Colours, the hang are the same, and the different Colours therein do make a very agreeable show. And this is what I found most remarkable in the Castle of Buitrago, and it growing late we left it.  
It was several days since I had the pleasure of seeing the playing at Hombre, I therefore caused the Cards to be brought. Don Fernand, with two of the Knights, began the Game, and I interest myself, as I was wont, and Don Estreve de Carjaval did the like; so that after we had seen them play some time, I demanded of him to whom of the three Knights was the Commandership, whence they came when I met them. He answered me, It did not belong to any one of them; that he had been to see one of their common Friends, on a vexatious Accident which had happened to him in Hunting. Falling on the Subject of Commanderships, I entreated him to inform me whether the Orders of St. James, Calatrava, and Alcantara were ancient. He answered me, 'Twas above 500 years they had subsisted; that heretofore the Order of Calatrava was called the Gallant, that of St. James the Rich, and that of Alcantara the Noble. That which made 'em be called thus, was that ordinarily there entered only young Cavaliers into Calatrava; that St. James' was richer than the two others, and that to be received a Knight of Alcantara, one must make his Proofs of four Races, whereas to enter into the others, there needed only two. In the first times, when these Orders were established, the Knights made Vows, lived most regularly in Community, and wore Arms only to Combat the Moors; but afterwards the greatest Lords of the Kingdom entered into it, who obtained the liberty to marry, under this Condition, that they should be obliged to demand an express Dispensation, from the Holy See, one must have the King's Letter, make his proofs of Nobility, and likewise prove he comes of old Christians, which is to say, there have entered no Jews nor Moors into his Fathers and Mother's Family. Pope Innocent the Eighth gave in 1489. to King Ferdinand and his Successors, the disposal of all the Commanderships of these three Orders, which are called Military. The King of Spain disposes of them in effect under the Title of Perpetual Administrator; and he enjoys three great Mastership's, which bring him in above four thousand Crowns a year. When he holds a Chapter, as Great Master of the Order, or any other Assembly, the Knights have the Privilege to sit and be covered in his Presence. Don Esteve added, That the Order of the Calatrava had 34 Commanderships, and 8 Priories, valued at 120 thousand Ducals a year; that Alcantara had 33 Commanderships, 4 Alcaydies; and 4 Priories, which yielded 80 thousand Ducals, and that the 87 Commanderships of St. James, as well in Castille, as in the Kingdom of Leon, were valued at 272000 Ducats. You may hereby judge, Madam, continued he, that there are some helps for the poor Gentlemen of Spain.  
I agree, said I to him, that this would be very advantageous for them, were they the only Persons admitted into these three Orders. But I think you now told me, that the greatest Lords possess the best Commanderships. This is by a general Rule, said he, that those who have much will have more, although there's the greatest Justice others should have a share; and the eldest of great quality might have wherewith to satisfy them in obtaining the Order of the Fleece, which extremely distinguishes those whom the King honours with it. However, this being a Favour accompanied with no Revenue, and being not easily obtained, few People seek it, and you see ordinarily none but Princes have it. If you know who instituted this Order of the Fleece, said I to him, you will oblige me in informing me. It is pretended, replied he, that in the time when the Moors possessed the best and greatest part of Spain, a pious Peasant, praying one day earnestly to God to deliver the Kingdom from these Infidels, perceived an Angel coming down from Heaven who gave him a Fleece of Gold, and commanded him to make use of it to gather Troops, because at this sight he would not be refused to be followed for the fight the Enemy. This holy man obeyed; and several Gentlemen took up Arms in effect on what he told them.  
The Success of this Enterprise answered the hope conceived of it. So that Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, instituted the Order of the Golden Fleece, in the honour of God, of the Virgin and St. Andrew, in the year 1429. and the Day of his Marriage with Isabel Daughter to the King of Portugal, was chosen for this Ceremony. It was made at Bruges, it ordained that the Duke of Burgundy should be perpetual Chief of the Order, because St. Andrew is Patron of Burgundy. Those who have it are called Cavallero's del Tuzon, which is to say, Knights of the Fleece; and one may hence remark, that there is a difference in relation to this Order, saying, when one speaks of the others, That such a one is Knight of the Order of St. James, or the Order of Calatrava.  
In the time when we were thus talking, we heard a noise, as of a Coach and Attendants that stopped, not long after, Don Frederic de Cardona's Valet de Cambre entered into my Chamber, to tell his Master, that the Archbishop of Burgos was arrived.  
This is an unhappy Encounter for me, said he, for I parted expressly from Madrid to see him; and having not found him at Burgos, I was not a little troubled at it.  
Fortune is always on your side, said Don Sancho smiling to him, but not to retard the pleasure of seeing this Illustrious Kinsman, we will leave off our Game. Don Fernand and Don Sancho arose. Undoubtedly, says Don Esteve, Don Frederic will not be of our Company this Night. I am of another mind, replied Don Fernand; the Archbishop is one of the most obliging Persons in the World, assoon as ever he knows here's a French Lady, he will give her a Visit. He will do me a great deal of honour, answered, I but yet I shall be a little perplexed, for we must sup and go to rest betimes. I had scarce ended these words, when Don Frederic returned again.  
As soon as ever the Archbishop knew there was a strange Lady at Buytrago, said he to me, he no more minded me; and if you please, Madam, he will come and offer you whatever depends on him in this Country.  
I answered this Civility as I ought; and Don Frederic being returned to him, conducted him a while after into my Chamber. I found him extraordinary civil, he spoke little, and observed the gravity befitting his Character, and the Spanish Nation. He much bewailed my making so long a Journey in so rigorous a Season, entreating me to lay my Commands on him in something wherein he might obey me. This is the usual Compliment in this Country; he had a long Cassock over his other  of purple Velvet, with high ruffled Sleeves, which reached to his very Ears, and a pair of Spectacles on his Nose.  
He sent for a little Monkey, which he would needs give my Daughter; and though I was troubled at it, I could not resist his Instances, and the Desires my Daughter had of accepting it. Every time the Archbishop took Tobacco, which he often did, this little Ape reached out his Paw to him, and he put some on it, which he made as if he would take. This Prelate told me the King of Spain expected with extreme impatience the Answer of the Marquis de Los-Balbares, on the Orders he had given him on the Demand of Mademoiselle from the French King. If his most Catholic Majesty's Greatness be considered, continued he, this Marriage must needs be esteemed very honourable; for when the Sun goes down in one part of his Dominions, it rises again in another. And this Monarch enjoys not alone his Grandeur, he has the pleasure of sharing it to his Subjects, he is in a Condition to recompense them, to make them happy, to put them into high places, where their whole Ambition is satisfied, wherein they receive the same Honour as Sovereigns; and is not this what a King ought to wish, to be in a Capacity to recompense magnificently the Services which are rendered him, and force even an unthankful Person to become grateful. It is a surprising thing, the number of Employs for Men of the Sword and the Gown, which his Majesty every day bestows.  
Several Persons have spoken to me of this, as you do, my Lord, said I to him, but I hope to be perfectly instructed in it at Madrid. I am able to inform you, at least in part of what you would know, replied he; some Reasons have obliged me to take a little Abstract, and which I think I have about me. He immediately delivered it to me; and having kept the Copy of it, and it appearing curious to me, I shall therefore hear, dear Cousin, translate it for you.  
Vice-Royalties which depend on the King of Spain.  
Naples, Sicily, Arragon, Valantia, Navarre, Sardagnia, Catalonia, and in the New Spain, Peru.  
Governments of Kingdoms and Provinces.  
The States of Flanders, Milan, Galicia, Biscay, the Isles of Majorca and Minorca. Seven Governments in the West-Indies; to wit, the Isles of Madera, Cape Vert, Mina, St. Thomas, Angola, Bresil, and Algarves. In Africa, Iseuta, Maragan; in the East the Philippia Islands.  
Bishoprics and Archbishoprics in the most Catholic King's Nomination, since Pope Adrian the Sixth, yielded his Right of Nomination.  
First in the two Castilles the Archbishopric of Toledo, whose Archbishop is Primate of Spain, Great Chancellor of Castille, and Counsellor of State. He speaks to the States, and in the Council, immediately after the King; and he is usually consulted in all important Affairs. He has three hundred and fifty thousand Crowns a year, and his Clergy four hundred thousand.  
The Archbishop of Braga in Portugal, who is Spiritual and Temporal Lord of the City, and who for a Mark of his Authority, carries his Crosier in his hand, and his Sword by his side, pretends to the Primacy of all Spain, and disputes it with the Archbishopric of Toledo, because this Primacy was heretofore held at Sevill, afterwards Translated to Toledo, by reason of the Invasion of the Moors, and that Toledo being fallen into their hands, it was Translated to Braga, so that the Archbishop long possessed this Dignity; but after the Spaniards had retaken Toledo, the Archbishop redemanded his Primacy, he of Braga would not consent to restore it; and this Difference being not yet terminated, they both assume this Title.  
The Archbishopric of Sevill is worth 350 thousand Ducats, and its Chapter above an hundred thousand. Nothing can be seen finer than this Cathedral. Among other remarkable things, there is a Tower built with Brick, near 200 foot large, and above an 100 in height. Another Tower is raised above it, which is so well contrived within, that a Man may ride up on Horseback to the top of it. The outside is all painted and gilt.  
The Archbishopric of St. James' the Compostella is worth near sixty thousand Ducats, and its Chapter an 100 thousand.  

The Archbishop of Grenada is valued at 40000 Ducats.  
That of Burgos near as much.  
The Archbishop of Sarragossa 50000.  
The Archbishop of Avila 20 thousand Ducats a year.  
The Archbishopric of Valencia 40 thousand.  
The Bishopric of Astorgas 12 thousand.  
Bishopric of Cuensa more than 50 thousand. 

Of Cordova about 40 thousand.  
Of Siguensa the same.  
Of Segovia 25 thousand.  
Of Calahorra 20 thousand.  
Of Salamanca something more.  
Of Placentia 50 thousand.  
Of Palentia 25 thousand.  
Of Jaca above 30 thousand.  
Of Malaga 40 thousand.  
Of Osma 22 thousand.  
Of Zamora 20 thousand.  
Of Coria 20 thousand.  
Of Ciudad Rodrigo 10 thousand.  
Of the Canary Island 12 thousand.  
Of Lugo 8 thousand.  
Of Mondenedo 10 thousand.  
Of Oviedo 20 thousand.  
Of Leon 22 thousand.  
Of Pampelune 28 thousand.  
Of Cales 12 thousand.  
Of Orensa 10 thousand.  
Of Onguela 10 thousand.  
Of Almeria 5 thousand.  
Of Guadix 90000 thousand.  
Of Tuy 4 thousand.  
Of Badajoz 18 thousand.  
Of Vailladolid 15 thousand.  
Of Huesca 12 thousand.  
Of Tarazona 14 thousand.  
Of Balbastro 7 thousand.  
Of Albarvacin 6 thousand.  
Of Tervel 12 thousand.  
Of Jaca 6 thousand.     
I ought not to omit observing, That the Cathedral of Cordua is extraordinary stately; 'twas built by Abderhaman, who ruled over all the Moors in Spain. It served them for a Mosque in the year 787. But the Christians having taken Cordova in 1236. they made a Church of this Mosque. It has 24 great Gates, all of 'em carved with Ornaments of Steel; its length is 600 foot, and 50 wide. It is perfectly well proportioned, and sustained by 850 Pillars, the greatest part of which are of Jasper, and the others of black Marble, of one foot and an half Diametre. The Roof is admirably well painted; and one may hence judge of the magnificent humour of the Moors.  
It is hard to believe, after what I have written of the Cathedral of Cordova, that that of Leon is yet more considerable. Yet nothing is truer; and this is what has given occasion to what is commonly said, That the Church of Leon is the finest in all Spain, the Church of Toledo the richest, that of Sevill the greatest, and that of Salamanca the strongest.  
The Cathedral of Malaga is admirably well set forth, and justly proportioned; the Desks in the Choir hath cost 105 thousand Crowns, and all the rest answers this Magnificence.  

Principalities of Catalonia.  
The Archbishopric of Tarragone.  
The Archbishopric of Barcelona.  
The Bishopric of 

Lerida.  
Vrgel.  
Gironne.  
Vique.  
Salsona.  
Tortosa.  
Elm.     

In Italy.  
The Archbishopric of 

Brindes.  
Lanciano.  
Matera.  
Otrante.  
Rocli.  
Salerna.  
Trani.  
Tarante.    
The Bishopric of 

Ariano,  
Acerra.  
Aquila.  
Costan.  
Castelamare.     

The Kingdom of Naples.  
The Bishopric of 

Gaeta  
Galipoli.  
Gniovenazzo.  
Mofula.  
Monopoli.  
Puzzol.  
Potenza.  
Trivento.  
Tropea.  
Dugento.     

Kingdom of Sicily.  
The Archbishopric of 

Palerma.  
Monteral.    
The Bishopric of 

Girgento.  
Mazara.  
Messina.  
Parti.  
Cefalu.  
Catania.  
Zaragoza.  
Malt.     

At Milan.  
The Archbishopric of Milan.  
The Bishopric of Vigevano.   

Kingdom of Majorca.  
The Bishopric of Majorca.   

Kingdom of Sardagnia.  
The Archbishopric of 

Cagliari.  
Oristan.  
Sacer.    
The Bishopric of 

Alguerales.  
Boza.  
Ampurias.     

In Africa.  
The Bishopric of Tanger.  
The Bishopric of Ceuta.   

In the Indies.  
The Archbishop of Goa.  
The Bishopric of 

Madera.  
Angola in the Tercere Isles,  
Capoverde.  
St. Thomas.  
Cochin.  
Malara.  
Maliopor.  
Macao.     
From all the Archbishoprics and Bishoprics there comes nothing to the Pope from the Bishop that dies, nor whilst the Benefice is Vacant. It will be a hard matter to recite the number of Abbeys and other Dignities to which the King of Spain presents.  
We shall now mention the six Archbishoprics, and the thirty two Bishoprics of New Spain, of its Isles, and of Peru.  
The Archbishopric of the City of Los-Reyes, Capital of the Province of Peru, is valued at near 30 thousand Crowns a year.  

The Bishopric of 

Arequipa 16 thousand.  
Truxillo 14 thousand.  
St. Francisco de Quito 18000. the great Town of Curco. 24 thousand.  
St. John of Victory 8000.  
Panama 6000.  
Chile 5000.  
of our Lady of Chile 40000.    
The Archbishopric of 

Bogota in the Kingdom of Grenada 14000.  
Popaya 5000.  
Cartagena 6000.  
St. Maria 18000.     
The Bishopric of Plata in the Province of Los Charcas sixty thousand. The Archdeacon of this Bishopric has 5000, the Master of the Children of the Choir, the chanter, and Treasurer, each 4000 Six Canons, each 3000. Six other Dignities valued each at 1800 Crowns. And one may observe by the Riches of the Chapter of Plata, that the others have not much less.  
The Archbishopric of La Plata has for Suffragans, 

The Bishopric of 

Paz.  
Tucuman.  
Santa Cruz de la Sierra.  
Paraquay de Buenos Ayres.  
Del Rio de la Plata.      
The Archbishop of St. James, in the Province of Tutuman, is worth 600 Crowns.  
The Bishopric of S. Laurence de Las Barrancas 12000.  

The Bishopric of 

Baraguay 16000  
La Sante trinity 15000.     
The Archbishopric of Mexico, erected in 1518 Twenty Thousand Reales.  
The Bishopric of Los Angelos Fifty Thousand Reales.  
The Bishopric of Valadolid, of the Province of Mechoacan, 14000 Crowns.  

The Bishopric of 

Antequera 7000.  
Guadalaxara, Province of the new Galicia 7000.  
Durango 4000  
Merida●, Capital of the Province of Yucatan, 8000.  
Gantiago, in the Province of Guatamala, 8000.  
Santiago of Leon 3000.  
Chiapa 5000.     
The Archbishopric of St. Domingo of the Spanish Islands, Primate of the Indies 3000.  

The Archbishopric of 

St. Juan de Porto-Rico Fifty Thousand Reales.  
the Isle of Cuba 8000.  
St. Anna de Coro 8000.  
Camayagua, Capital of the Province of Hunduras 3000.     
The Archbishopric Metropolitan of Manila Capital of the Philippin Islands, 3000 Crowns, which the King is obliged to pay him by the Bull granted in 1595. The King likewise pays the Chapter the same sum. This Archbishopric has three Suffragans, one in the Isle of Cebu, the other in that of Luzon, and the third in Comorina.  
Having read the Memorandum which the Archbishop of Burgos gave me, and made it to be copied out, he withdrew, praying me that I would give him leave to send his Olio to me, because 'twas ready, and that I could not get any thing better for my Supper. I thanked him, and told him, the same Reason obliged me to refuse it, seeing without it he would make as bad a Supper as we.  
Yet Don Frederick de Cardona was already gone to fetch it and he returned laden with a great Silver Pot; but he was much surprised in finding it fastened with a Lock: This is usual in Spain; he would needs have the Key of the Cook (who taking it ill that his Master would not eat his Olio) answered, he had unfortunately lost the Key in the Snow, and knew not how to open it. Don Frederic vexed at this, would against my will, go and acquaint the Archbishop with it, who ordered his Major Domo to look after it; he threatened the Cook, and the Scene past so near my Chamber, that I heard it all, but that which I liked best were the Cook's Answers, who said, No puedo padecer la rina, siendo Christiano viejo, hidalgo come el Key y poco mas, which is to say, I cannot bear the being reprimanded, who am of the Race of Old Christians, who are Noble as the King, and something more.  
It is commonly at this rate the Spaniards value themselves: This same Blade was not only vainglorious, but obstinately conceited: and whatever could be done or said to him, he would not deliver the Key of the Pot, so that the Olio remained in it untouched for us. We went to Bed late, so that not rising very early, all that I could do before I set out, was to finish this Letter, and to Morrow I shall begin another, wherein you shall be informed of the rest of my Travels.  
From Buitrago, this 13th. of March, 1679.   

LETTER. VII.  
WE can easily perceive that we are not far from Madrid, the Wether is fair notwithstanding the Season, and we have no more need of Fire; but it seems very strange to us, that in the Inns which are the nearest to this great Town, you are worse used than in those which are an hundred Leagues distant; you would think you came rather into Deserts, than near a Town where resides so great a Monarch; and I can assure you (dear Cousin) that in our whole Course, I have not met with an House or Castle that has pleased me; I am much amazed at it, for I thought that in this Country as in ours, I should find fine Walks, and curious Seats, whereas you can scarcely see any Trees, save some few which grow in spite of the Soil: And at this time, when I am but Ten Leagues from Madrid, my Chamber stands even with the Stable; it is an Hole that needs a Light at Noon, but what kind of Light think you? better have none at all; for this is a Lamp which banishes all Cheerfulness by its glimmering light, and your Health by its stinking scent: and go you where you will, tho' to the Curate of the Parish for a Candle, you will not find one, and I doubt much whether there be any in his Church. Here every where a sad Scene of Poverty presents itself to your sight; Don Ferdinand de Toledo, who took notice of my Astonishment, assured me I should see very fine things at Madrid; but I could not forbear telling him, I could not easily imagine it: It is true, the Spaniards bear up under their Indigency with such an Air of Gravity as would cheat one, the very Peasants telling their steps as they walk; they are mightily inquisitive after News, as if their whole Being depended thereon; I have had many of 'em come into my Chamber without any Ceremony, and without  on their backs, or Shoes on their Feet, entreating me to tell them what I knew of the Court of France; after I had spoke to them, they have examined what I have said, and argued on it among themselves in such a manner, as shown great sense, and a lively apprehension: This Nation has ever had something extraordinary among them above others.  
There came to see me among others one of the Townsman's Wives, a good likely Woman; she carried her Child in her Arms, which was a dreadful lean one; he had above an hundred little hands like those of Jointed Babies hanging about his Neck, and on all sides of him. I asked his Mother what this meant? She answered me, this was good against Evil Eyes. How, said I to her, do these little hands hinder one from any Distemper of the Eyes? Undoubtedly, replied she, but not as you mean; for you must know if you please, there are Peoin this Country, who have such a Poison in their Eyes, that in looking steadfastly on a Person, and especially on a young Child, they make him pine away to death. I saw a Man who had an Evil Eye, and doing mischief when he looked with this Eye, he was obliged to cover it with a great Plaster: As to the other Eye, it had no Malignity, yet it sometimes happened that being with his Friends, when he saw a great many Fowls together, he would say, choose which of these you would have me kill. He was showed one, he took off his Plaster, looked fixedly on the Fowl, and a while after she turned several times round as giddy, and fell down dead. This Woman likewise would persuade me there are Magicians, who looking on any one with an Evil intention, strikes them with such a Languishment, as makes 'em become lean like Skeletons; and her Child, she told me, has been struck in this manner, and the common Remedy is these little hands. She moreover told me, it is the custom, when they see any one look attentively upon them, and the Party has a look ill enough to fear she should give the Evil d' Ojos (it is thus called, because it is done by the Eyes) to present her own of these Hands, or even her own shut, and to say to her Tomazin la mano, which is to say, Take this hand; to which the Party suspected must answer, Dios le benediga, God bless you, which if she does not, she is judged to be ill intentioned, and thereupon he or she may be denunciated to the Inquisition; or if you be the stronger, you may beat them till they say Dios le benediga.  
I do not assure you as a thing certain, that the Relation of the Fowls is positively true; but this is certain, that they are here strongly persuaded there are Persons who can do you hurt by bare looking on you, and here are even Churches to which they go in Pilgrimage to be cured of it. I asked this young Woman if there appeared nothing extraordinary in those they call mischievous Eyes; She told me no; except that they are full of such a shining Vivacity, that they seem to be all on fire, and would make one think they will pierce you like a Dart. She moreover told me, that of late the Inquisition had caused an Old Woman to be seized on, who was accused to be a Witch, and she believed 'twas she who had put her Child in that piteous condition I saw it. I asked her what they would do to this Woman; she told me if there were Proofs strong enough, she would be infallibly burnt, or left in the Inquisition; and that the best treatment she could choose would be to be delivered thence by being whipped along the Streets; That these Witches are tied to an Ass' Tail, or that they are placed on these Beasts coifed with a Paper Mitre painted with all colours, with Writings which denote the Crimes they have committed: That in this fine Equipage they are led about the Town, where every one has the liberty to strike them, or throw dirt at them. But, said I to her, how know you their condition would be worse if they remained still in Prison? O Madam, said she to me, I see you are not yet informed what the Inquisition is; whatever can be said of it, comes not near the Rigours exercised therein: You are seized on, and thrown into a Dungeon; you lie there two or three Months, sometimes more, and sometimes less, without a word being said to you; at the end of this time you are led before the Judges, who with a terrible look ask you why you are there? It is Natural to answer, you know not. They say no more to you, but send you back again to this dismal Hole, wherein is every day suffered a thousand times more trouble than Death itself; yet you are not suffered to die there, but remain many times a Year in this condition. At the end of this time, you are brought again before the same Judges, or before others, for they change, and go into several Countries; these demand of you again, why you are detained? You Answer, you have been Apprehended, but you know not for what. You are sent again into your Dungeon without any more words. In short, sometimes you pass over your whole Life there. And demanding of her, if it were the Custom for one to accuse himself, she answered, that as to some Persons, 'twas the best and shortest way; but that the Judges held only this course with those against whom they had no certain Proofs: for commonly, when any one accuses a Person of Capital Crimes, the Accuser was wont to remain in Prison with the Criminal, and this is the reason of their being a little more moderate. She related to me the particular punishments, and the whole manner of them, with which I will not fill this Letter, nothing being more dreadful. She moreover told me, she knew a Jew named Ishmael, who was put into the Prison of the Inquisition of Sevill, with his Father, who was a Rabbin of their Law. It is four years since they were there, when Ishmael, having made an hole, climbed up to the top of a Tower, and making use of Ropes he had provided, he slid down along the Wall with a great deal of danger; but having got down, he reproached himself for having abandoned his Father, and without considering the Risk he ran after more than one manner, seeing his Father and he were condemned, and were to be led in a few days to Madrid with several others, to suffer there the greatest Torment; yet this hindered him not from determining himself, he generously climbed up the Tower, descended into the Dungeon, drew thence his Father, made him escape before him, and got away himself. I found this Action very brave, and worthy to be set as an Example to Christians in an Age wherein, the most indispensible Obligations are slighted. I continued entertaining myself with this Spanish Woman, when Constance, one of my Women, whom you know, came to tell me with great earnestness, that she now saw Monsieur Daucourt, and that if I would, she would step out and call him: This is a Rich Gentleman, whom I knew at Paris, a civil Man, and of good Sense, and of comely Personage: I knew he had a Brother at Madrid, belonging to Don Juan of Austria. Having showed I should be glad to speak with him, Constance went out in quest of him, and brought him to me. After the first Civilities, and informing myself of the News of my Kinswomen whom I believed he knew, I asked him of his own Affairs, and whether he was content with his Journey. Ah, Madam, speak to me no more of my Journey, cried he, there was never a more unfortunate; and had you come some days sooner, you might have seen me hanged. How, said I to him, what do you mean by this? I mean, said he to me, that I had all the fear of it, and that this is the most unpleasant Country in the World for Strangers: But, Madam, if you are at leisure, and would know more, I will relate to you my Adventure. It is singular, and will fully prove to you what I have told you. You will do me a great deal of pleasure, said I to him, we are here in a place where such a Relation will much divert us; he began it then in this manner.  
Some Affairs wherein I was concerned, and the desire of seeing a Brother whom I had been away from some years, obliged me, Madam, to undertake this Journey to Madrid: I was little acquainted with the Customs of that place, I imagined one might go to Women without difficulty, and that one might play and eat with them; but I was astonished to learn, that every one of them is more retired in her House, than a Carthusian in his Cell; and that there are Persons who have been mutually in Love for two or three years, and yet had never spoke to one another. Such singular Manners seemed ridiculous to me, I said thereupon freely whatever came into my Head; but I treated the matter more seriously, when I understood these Women who were so closely confined, were the most amiable Women in the World; that they had such a Delicacy, Vivacity, and Manners, as are not where to be met with but among them; that Love always appeared new, that no one would change a Spanish Woman but for another. I was in the greatest despair at the difficulties there were to get at them. One of my Friends, named Belleville, who was my Companion in my Journey, and who is a brisk Lad, was no less troubled on his side than I on mine: my Brother, who feared lest some vexatious Accident should befall us, continually inculcated into us how Jealous Husbands are in this Country; great Murderers, and no more valued the kill of a Man than a Fly. This did not agree very well with two Men who were not as yet weary of living.  
We went into all parts where we thought we might see Ladies; we saw some in effect, but this did not satisfy us, all the bows and cringes we made 'em brought forth nothing; we each of us returned home every Night very weary and disgusted at our fruitless Circuits.  
One Night Belleville and I went upon Design to the Prado, which is a Walk adorned with great Trees, and several Fountains, they throw their Water a great height, and in great gushes it falls into Basins, from whence it runs (when they have a mind) into the Courts to Water them, and so to make them fresh and pleasant. It was the finest Wether this Evening that one could wish. After we had light out of our Coach, and sent it away, we began to walk softly, and having made a few turns, we sat us down on the side of one of the Fountains, and then began to make our usual Complaints. Dear Belleville, said I to my Friend, shall we never be so happy to meet with one of these Witty and Charming Spanish Women, so much boasted of? Alas! says he, I desire it too much, but dare not hope it: Hitherto we have met with nothing but such ugly Creatures, as run after Folks to fright them, and who under their white Vails are more Tawny and Loathsome than the Bohemians; such as these, I swear to you, do not please me at all, and notwithstanding their sprightfulness, I cannot consent to enter into a very near conversation with them.  
At the very instant these words were out of his Mouth, we spied coming out of a Door hard by, two Women; they had left off their upper Garments, which were always very plain; and when they opened their Manta's, the light of the Moon made the glory of their Gold and Precious Stones appear. As God's true, cries out Belleville, here's at least two Fairies. Nay, said I, let's be juster, and think them not other than two Angels. When they came near us, we stood up, and made them the lowest Bow that ever we did in our lives. They passed by us softly, and with those little Apish Tricks, which become the Spaniards so well, they looked at us, first with one Eye, and then with t'other. They went on a little; we were in pain what to think, whether they would return back the same way, or whether we should follow them; but while we were deliberating, we perceived them to approach us; when they were near us, they stood still, one of them began to speak, and asked us, if we could speak Spanish. I see by your Habits, said she, that you are strangers. But pray tell me of what Country are you? We told her we were Frenchmen, and that we spoke Spanish ill enough, but we had a great mind to learn to speak it well: That to succeed therein, we were persuaded we must love a Spanish Woman, and we hearty wished we might find one that desired to be beloved. The matter is nice, replied the other Lady, which had not yet spoke, and I should be sorry for her who engages in such a Design, for I have heard that Frenchmen are not Faithful. Oh! Madam, says Belleville, this was some body which had a mind to do us an ill turn, and put us out of your good opinion, but it will be easy to wipe off this Aspersion. Though I may soon give my Heart to a pretty Woman, yet I am very sensible I cannot so easily call it back again. What! says she that spoke to me before, dare you without further consideration, enter into such an Engagement at first sight? I should not have quite so good an Opinion of you. Oh! Madam, cries he, why should we lose precious Time? If it is good to love at all, it is good to begin as soon as 'tis possible: Hearts that are born to Love, languish and decay when they are not exercised therein. Your Maxims are fine, replied she, but they seem dangerous; it is not only necessary to avoid following of them, but even the hearing of them; and then indeed they would have been gone, but we begged them with great earnestness to tarry a few moments longer in the Prado. We said all the pretty things to them both, which might oblige them to discover themselves, and give us the satisfaction of seeing them without their Vails. Our Conversation was very brisk, and pleasant enough: they had abundance of Wit; and as they knew how to manage all their Advantages, so without affectation, they showed us their Hands as they had occasion to mend the sitting of their Head-dresses, and they were whiter than the Snow. In spite of their seeming care to hid themselves, yet we saw enough to observe their delicate Complexion, their brisk Eyes, and their Features very regular. You may be sure we left them as late as we could, and that we conjured them to make that Walk happy sometimes with their Presence, or else give us leave to wait on them at their House. They agreed to nothing; and indeed, we were several times after that at the Prado, and near that Fountain where the first saw them, without being able to perceive them. Here's a deal of time lost, said we; what must we do to pass our Lives in this great want of Employment, for we must renounce the thoughts of Ladies, whose Access is so difficult? This was our Resolution, but it held not long, for scarcely had we made it, but we see come out of the same House the two Incognitoes. We drew near them, full of Respect, and our civil Carriage did not displease them. Belleville took the least by the hand, and I the biggest. I endeavoured to persuade her with what Impatience I expected her. I blamed her a little, at which she seemed somewhat concerned; but taking more courage, I discoursed to her of the thoughts she had inspired me with, and assured her, that it was in her power to engage me for my whole Life. She seemed extreme careful not to give the least mark of Favour. At length, amongst other things, she told me, that she was Heiress to a great Estate; that her Name was Ines, that her Father was a Knight of the Order of St. James, and was of a considerable Quality; that she, which was with her, was called Isabel, and that they were Cousins. All these particulars pleased me well, finding her a Person of Birth and therein my Vanity flattered. At parting, I begged her to give me leave to come see her, What you desire of me, says she, is the Custom of your Country; and if I were there, I would please myself to observe it; but we have different, and tho' I do not conceive any Crime in what you ask me, yet I am obliged to observe certain Rules of Decency, which by no means I will transgress. I will contrive some other way to see you, and of this, depend upon me, and do not take it ill, that I refuse you a thing, which is not in my power to grant. Adieu, continues she, I will think of what you desire, and will let you know what I can do. I kissed her Hand, and so withdrew, extremely touched with her way, as well as her Wit and her Prudence.  
As soon as I was alone with Belleville, I asked him, if he was pleased with the Conversation he had enjoyed. He answered me, that he had great cause to be so, and that Isabel seemed to be of a Nature sweet and amiable. You are very happy, said I, already to have found so much kindness. Ines gives me no room to hope for any. She's of a gay Humour, and turns every thing I say to her into Jest, and I despair ever to make her serious. Some days past, before we either saw or heard from them: But one Morning as I was at Mass, an Old Woman, hid under a Veil, comes up to me, and presents me a Billet, in which I read these words: YOU appear too Amiable to me to see you often, and I must needs confess to you, that I a little mistrust my own Heart: If yours is truly touched for me, Marriage must be thought on. I have told you that I am Rich, and I have told you the truth: That part which I offer you, is not inconvenient to take: But consider of it, and in the Evening I shall be on the Banks of Mansanarez, where you may let me know your thoughts.  
As the place where I was did not allow me to write her an Answer, so I contented myself to Note only on my Table-Book these Lines: YOU have power to make me take what Journey you please. I am very sensible, that I Love you too well to be at ease, and that I have more cause to suspect my own Weakness, than you have to be afraid of yours; however, I shall be at Mansanarez, being resolved to obey you, whatever you Command me.  
I gave my Table-Book to this honest Messenger, which had the looks tho', to steal off the Plates and Clasps before she would deliver it. I desired Belleville to let me go alone to this Assignation. He told me, he was very glad of it, for Isabel had given him Notice, that she desired to speak with him alone at the Florid. It was with impatience that we waited for the appointed hour, and then we quitted each other, after having wished ourselves good Success in our Adventure.  
As soon as I came to the Riverside, I carefully looked at all the Coaches which passed by; but it was hard for me to discover any thing, because they had double Curtains drawn. But at last, there came one and stopped, and I perceived some Women in't, who gave me a sign to approach. There was Ines, who was more concealed than usual, and I could not know her but by her Voice. How industriously you hid yourself, said I to her. Do you think, Madam, that the thoughts of not being able to see you, and the violent desires I have for it, are not enough to kill me with Grief? If you'll come along with me, says she, you shall see me. But for the present I must hoodwink you. To be free with you, said I to her, till now, you have appeared very amiable to me; but this Mysterious Carriage, which serves to no end, but to make me suffer, is troublesome. If I am so unhappy to be thought by you an unfaithful man, you ought not at all to trust me; but if on the contrary, I am in your good Opinion, you ought to declare it, by a mo●e ingenuous proceeding. Interrupting me, says she, you ought to be persuaded, that I have strong Reasons for what I do, since notwithstanding what you have now told me, I altar not my Resolution. The thing however is at your choice; but for my own part, I will not let you come into my Coach, but upon that Condition. As the Spaniards are naturally obstinate, I rather chose to suffer my Eyes to be covered than to break off with her. I must needs own, that these appearances of Good Fortune, had filled me with some sort of Vanity, and I fancied myself with some Princess, which for the present had no mind I should know her, but afterwards, that I should find her, one of the most perfect and rich Women of Spain. This conceit hindered me any longer to oppose her will. I told her, I submitted to her, to be hoodwinked, and even to be blinded by her, if she could please herself in the Action. She tied a Handkerchief about my Head so hard, that at first she put me in terrible pain: I sat me down by her; it was now dark, I knew not whether we were going, but I gave myself up entirely into her power.  
She had with her two other Women; the Coach moved so long, that I believe we passed through most of the streets of Madrid. She entertained me with such witty Discourse, that I had no need to think the time or way long; and I was even charmed with hearing her, when our unlucky Coach, which was but a mean one, run upon another and all on a sudden was overturned. And we happened to fall in a place called the Marèe, which is one of the greatest and nastiest Ditches in the City. I was never so vexed in my life; the three Ladies fell upon me, they almost stifled me, and I was even deaf with their noise. Having my Eyes bound, and my Head turned about after a strange fashion, I could not have my share of making a noise, without swallowing a great deal of this stinking Water. I than began to make some Reflections on the unlucky hours of a Man's Life; and though I dearly loved Ines, yet I found that I loved myself more, and wished I had never seen her. I cannot positively tell how things past, but I felt myself delivered from that heavy weight which so oppressed me; and when, by the help of some People which drew me out, I got upon my legs, I could neither see Ines nor her Companions. The Folks which stood about me, laughed like so many Fools, to see me hoodwinked, and so covered with this black Water, that I looked as if I had come out of an Ink-tub. I asked the Coachman where his Mistress was. He told me the Lady with whom I was, was none of his Mistress, and that she went away cursing of me; that she was very dirty; that he knew her not; and that she only said to him at going away, that I must pay him. And prithee, said I, where didst thou take her up? He answered me, At the Gate Delcalcas Reales, and that an Old Woman came for him, and brought him to that place where he took her up. For my Money I got him to carry me home. I expected Belleville with a mixture of Impatience and Grief: It was late before he came, and he was extremely satisfied with Isabel, in whom he found abundance of good Nature, and an infinite deal of Wit.  
I related to him my Adventure, he could not but laugh hearty at it; and as he was filled with an extraordinary Joy, so he told me a hundred pleasant Stories, which put me indeed into a very bad Humour: It was daylight before we went to Bed, and I had not got up, but to take a walk with him in the Prado; As we were going along by some very low Windows, I heard Ines cry out to me, Cavallero, go not so fast, it is at least fit to ask you how you do after your fall last Night. Advancing to the Window, pray, said I to her, what became of you, fair Ines? And had not I misfortunes enough, but I must lose you too. You had not lost me, replied she, but that a Lady, who was my Relation, passing by in that moment, knew my voice, and I was obliged against my mind, to go with her in her Coach, for I was unwilling she should see us together; though the Coachman told me another story, yet I durst not examine any further into the matter, for fear of making her uneasy, and with abundance of kindness I asked her, when I should have an Opportunity without any restraint to let her know what a mighty Passion and Respect I had for her. It shall be very quickly, says she, for I now begin to think you love me; but yet time must confirm me in this Opinion. Oh! you are very cruel, said I, and must have very little Love for me, thus to defer what I so earnestly beg. Speak the truth freely, says she, and tell me whether you will Marry me? Yes, said I, if you will, I'll Marry you, notwithstanding I never yet had a full sight of you, nor have had the happiness to know you. I am Rich, says she, and am of Birth, and they tell me, I have some Personal Merits. I replied, You have all the things which please me, beyond any Person in the World: Your Wit hath charmed me, but you make me often despair, and I had much rather choose to die at once, than suffer what I do. She fell a laughing, and after that, there were few Evenings that we did not converse together, either at the Prado, or at Mansanarez, or else at some House unknown to me, whither I was conducted. I must confess, I never went into the Chamber with her, and I only talked to her through the Grates of the Window, where for four hours together I used to make the most impertinent Figure in the World. To speak freely, one must live in Spain, to be able to endure such ways and Customs; but yet really I loved Ines; I observed in her something that was very smart and taking, which surprised and affected me.  
One time I met her in a Garden, where she had appointed me to be, and where she showed me more kindness than she used to do. When she saw it begin to be dark, she desired me to be gone; I unwillingly obeyed her, and as I went along a narrow Street, I perceived three Men with Sword in hand, set upon one single Man, who defended himself valiantly: I could not endure to see so unequal a Match, and I run to Second him, but just as I came up to him, they made a pass at him, and he fell upon me like a dead Man. These Murderers run away as fast as they could, and by this time the noise had drawn out a great many People, who seeing me with my Sword in hand, made no question that I was one of the Criminals. They prepared to seize me, but perceiving their ill intentions, I thought it was better to provide for my safety by flight, than to trust to my Innocence. I was closely pursued, and which way soever I took, still they met with me. In this distress, I had a glimpse of a Door half open, I slipped into it without any body's seeing me, and groping along, I came at last into a very dark Hall; I perceived Light through a door, I could not tell whether it was best to open it, nor what I should say, if there were People in it. I considered with myself, that I had the looks of one affrighted, and that I should be taken for a Man that came from doing some ill Action, and sought for an Opportunity to do some other: I deliberated a long time, I listened with great Attention to hear some body talk, and hearing none, at last I ventured, and softly opened the Door, and saw no body; I nimbly looked about where to hid myself; methought the Hang stuck out in some places, and really I got behind them in a little corner: I had been there but a very little while, when I espied coming in, Ines and Isabel. I cannot express to you, Madam, what a pleasant Amazement I was in, to find myself in my Mistress' House: I no ways doubted, that Fortune favoured my Design; I was in no fear of those who might search after me, and as I was even ready to go and throw myself down at her feet, I heard Isabel begin to Discourse. Says she, What hast thou been doing to day, dear Ines, Hast thou seen Daucourt? Yes, says Ines, I have seen him, and I have reason to believe he loves me desperately, unless all my Rules deceive me; he talks very seriously of Marrying me; that which perplexes me, is, that he will first see and know me. And how is it possible for thee to deny either the one or the other? replies Isabel. No, I do not pretend to do it, answers Ines, only I'll take the most favourable Opportunities; I fancy I shall not think it cunning to set myself in a full light, and all the Curtains open; no, I intent they shall be close drawn, and that the Windows shall only let in some glimmering Rays of the Sun, which shall serve to set me off. As to my Birth, I have got my Pedigree Authentically drawn, which cost me nothing but a little Old Parchment gnawed by the Mice. And as to ready Money, thou knowest my Old Lover, honest Don Diego, will furnish me: when Daucourt has told and received it, he will little think, that Thiefs are appointed to take it away from him upon our very Wedding-Night: I have this day taken very fair Lodgings ready Furnished; so that thou wilt yield, I have neglected nothing which might contribute to the success of a business so advantageous to me, and which I so much desire. Says Isabel, Thy precautions seem very wise; but yet I fear the discovery of the Intrigue. But says Ines, Prithee my Dear, what dost thou do? As to Marriage, I make but a small Progress, says Isabel; but to speak truth, that is not my Design: I find Belleville an honest Man; I am sensible that I love him, I only desire the possession of his Heart, and I fancy, I should be sorry if he would Marry me. Thou art of an odd sort of Humour, says Ines; thou lovest him, thy Fortune is none of the greatest, thou mightst be happy with him, and yet thou durst not desire to be his Wife. But prithee, says Isabel, who told thee that I should be happy with him? Love is so unconstant a thing, that hardly are the first moments of Marriage pleasant; I tell thee, Love must have something continually to provoke and spur it; Novelty is a grateful Dish to it, and how is it possible for a Wife always to be new? And how can a Mistress either, cries Ines, be so? Go, Isabel, thy Modish Maxims are not reasonable. Neither, says Isabel, can I like of what thou designest; and if thou wouldst take my Advice, thou shouldst seriously consider thine own Age; for to speak freely, thou art Old, very Old: Is it just for sixty Years to put the Cheat upon a Man of thirty? He will be enraged at thee, he will certainly forsake thee, or else he'll break thy Bones; nay, it may happen he'll knock thy Brains out before he leaves thee. Ines was of a quick Apprehension and brisk; she took it heinously that Isabel should reproach her with her Age, and immediately she gave her the greatest box on the Ear which perhaps was ever given. The other, of as hasty a Nature, returned her two. Ines lent her a dozen good cuffs with her fist, which were speedily repaid: So that my two Female Champions entered the Field of Mars. The Combat was so extreme pleasant between them, that I almost broke my sides with laughing in my little Hole, and I had much ado to hinder myself from breaking out aloud; for you may easily believe, Madam, that I had very little concern for either of them, after the Trick which I understood was to be put upon me with so much Malice, and when I must necessarily look upon Ines as a common Jilt. Isabel, who knew all the weak places of her Enemy, took her Opportunities, and being both younger and stronger, tore off her Head-dress, and left her all bald. In my whole Life I was never more surprised, than to see the Hair fall off, which before appeared so lovely to me, and which I thought had been her own: But this was nothing to what followed, for with one blow of her fist she not only made several of her Teeth leap out of her Mouth, but also two little Cork-plumpers, which served to fill out her hollow Jaws. And here the Fray ended, for their Chambermaid's, who had heard the noise of the Skirmish, run in, and with much ado parted them. They said the bitterest things one against the other, and even threatened to reveal to the Inquisition most terrible Crimes, with which they reproached each other.  
Ines finding herself with her Chambermaid only, looked at herself a long time in a great Glass, and protested that there was nothing so injurious, which she had not said to Isabel, that she might be revenged of her for the Abuses she had received from her: At last she sat her down and rested herself a while; a little Table was brought and set before her, and upon it she lays an Artificial Eye, which used to fill up the place of a Natural one she wanted; afterwards, she takes off her Face as much white and red Colour, as without any Hyperbole, would have covered a Mask. It would be hard to describe to you, Madam, the extraordinary ugliness of this Woman, who till now, had appeared to me very pretty. I rubbed my Eyes, I was like a Man that could not tell whether he doted, or had some idle Dream. To be short, she undressed herself, and was almost naked: and here I shall forbear representing to you this frightful Carcase. But certainly, Love never met with a better Cure; in all those parts where other Folks are fat and plump, she was lean and hollow; she looked perfectly like a Skeleton, which by some secret Spring was made to move about the Room: She was in a Gown with a white Mantle upon her shoulders, her Head bald, and her Arms appeared extreme little and lean; she bethought herself, that in the Scuffle her Pearl Bracelets broke, she had a mind to gather them up, but had enough to do to find them; her Chambermaid came to help her, they counted them, and found they had all but two, which were well cursed for my sake: Ines swore by St. James, Patron of Spain, that she would not go to Bed till she had found them: Her Maid and she looked in every corner and hole, removing the Tables, tumbling the Chairs, and throwing this way and that way every thing they came near, for Ines was in a very ill Humour: As I saw her make towards my corner, fear of being discovered by such a Fury, made me lie as close as 'twas possible; but unluckily as I drew back, I threw down several Bottles which stood there upon Shelves, and these made a mighty noise: Ines believing it was the Cat which had done this mischief, with all her might cried out, Gato, Gato; that is, Cat, Cat; and lifting up the Hang to chastise the Cat, with an amazement and rage which almost struck her dead upon the spot, she espied me; she fell violently upon me, and pulled the Hair off my Head; she reviled me grievously, she was like one Frantic, the veins of her Neck were so swelled, and her wrinkles and furrows were so frightful, that methought I saw the Head of Medusa; and in this my great Terror, I considered my escape, when on a sudden I heard a strange noise upon the Stairs, which gave me a fresh Alarm: But Ines left me, and run down to know what was the matter, and by that time, the whole House was filled with cries and weeping: The Officers of Justice, who had found this Young Man (of whom I told you before, Madam) lying upon the Ground, and was the cause I was so hotly pursued, after some diligent search, found that he was the Son of a Lady who lived in the same House; they brought him thus with his Body all wounded and bloody, at which sad sight she fell into a desperate condition. And as I had told Ines something of my Adventure, that I might give her some satisfaction why I came into her Chamber, so this lean Hag, would not keep my Secret, but to be revenged on me for having discovered her crafty tricks, was resolved to inform against me. I have the Murderer in my power, cries she; come, come along with me, and I'll deliver him up to you. Immediately she opens her Chamber-door, and being followed by a Troop of Alquazils, that is to say, Sergeants or Bailiffs, delivered me up to them with all the necessary Evidence for my speedy Trial. Says she, I saw this wretch with his naked Sword all bloody with the wound he came from giving; he ran into my Chamber to save himself, and threatened me with Death if I would not conceal him. Whatever I could say in my Justification was all in vain, they would not so much as hear me; they bond my hands with Cords, and so led me to Prison as a wretched Malefactor, whilst good Ines, and the Mother and Sister of the wounded, loaded me with blows and curses; they caused me to be put in a Hole, where I was several days without having the liberty to give notice to my Brother or my Friends of what had past; they likewise were in mighty pain about me, concluding for certain, that I was murdered in some corner of a Street, or else at some of my Night-Intrigues.  
At last, Belleville, who still continued to see Isabel, acquainted her with his grief, and begged her to assist him to discover at least, what they had done with my Body: She was so industrious to get Information about it, that Ines' Chambermaid, who had been ill enough used by her Mistress, told her the whole Secret of the History, altho' her good Lady had strictly forbid her. Upon this News, my Brother ran to beg the King to have pity on me, and to command them to remove me out of that hole, which seemed more like Hell than a Prison: I swooned away when I saw light: I was so wasted and weak, that I frighted folks; but yet I could not come out of Prison for some time, because of certain Formalities; and I leave you to think, Madam, what I mediated against the perfidious Ines; but yet I know not whether ever I should be in a condition to put in execution all the Projects of my just Revenge, for the Gentleman, who was wounded, contitued very ill, and his Life was despaired of; mine depended upon such a ticklish point, that I put up most ardent Prayers for him; and in such a melancholy uncertainty, I passed a great many hours: But my Brother, who was persuaded of my Innocence, omitted nothing for the discovery of the Authors of this Murderous Act. At last, he understood, that this young and wounded Cavallero had a Rival, and he made so diligent a Search and Examination, that he certainly knew that the Blow came from thence; he was so fortunate to get him apprehended, and this Man freely owned the Fact, which acquitted me. I was therefore set at Liberty, and I conceived so much Joy at it, that I was sick for several days after; or rather perhaps, it was an effect of that unwholesome Air which I received in the Prison.  
In the mean while, wicked Ines, who to be sure, was not much at ease, for fear of what might happen upon her serving me such a pleasant Trick, having notice that I was set free, and in a condition to Reward her according to her Merits, packed up her Baggage, and one Night privately runs away, and no body knew whither she was gone; so that when we wanted her, at least to make her an Example amongst the cheating Jilts, we were disappointed. But I was easily satisfied, because naturally I do not love to do any hurt to Women. But lest she might play me some other pranks, I left Madrid, that I might also avoid those of Spain. I am now returning into France, Madam, continued he, whither I shall be very glad to carry your Commands, if you'll do me so great an Honour to lay any upon me.  
Though I have some trouble at what happened to this Gentleman, yet I could not choose but laugh at some Circumstances of this Adventure, and I am willing to believe, Dear Cousin, that you will not be displeased, that I make you partake with me. I shall write to you no more till I come to Madrid, where I promise myself to see things far more worthy of your Notice, than hitherto I have been able to acquaint you.  
From St. Augustin, this 25th. of March.   

LETTER. VIII.  
I Would not, if you please, Dear Cousin, have you angry, that I did not write to you as soon as I arrived at Madrid: I thought it was better to tarry till I was in a condition to tell you something more exactly and curious. I knew that my Kinswoman was to go before me, as far as Alcovendas, which is about six League's distance from Madrid. As she was not yet come, and I had a mind to stay for her, Don Frederic de Cardonne proposed to me to go Dine at a very fine House, the Master whereof was his particular Acquaintance: So that instead of going into this little Village, we crossed by it, and through a Walk pleasant enough, we came to the House of Don Augustin Pacheco. This Gentleman is ancient, and yet he is lately married to Donna Thoresa de Figucroa: This is his Third Wife, and she is but Seventeen Years of Age; but of such an agreeable Humour, and so ingenious, that we were perfectly Charmed with her Wit and her Person: It was then Ten a Clock when we got there. The Spaniards are naturally Lazy, and love to rise late; and these Two were yet in Bed. Her Husband gave us such a frank and civil Reception, as sufficiently testified how much he was pleased that we came to see him. He went to walk in his Gardens, whose Exactness yields in nothing to ours. I accompanied him without delay; for the Wether was very inviting, and the Trees in this Country are as forward in the Month of March, as they are in France at the latter end of June. Indeed this is the most Charming Season for the Enjoyment of what they call La Prima Vera, that is to say, the Beginning of the Spring: For when the Son gins to have more Force and Heat, it scorches and withers the Leaves, as if they had passed through Flames. These Gardens of which I speak, were adorned with Bowling-Greens, Fountains and Statues, and Don Augustin was not backward to show us all the Rarities. He is much taken with them, and values not spending Money thereon; for he is very rich. He led us into a Gallery, where there were divers Tables of Cedar Wood, set full of Books. He immediately led us up to the Biggest of them, and told us, they contained an inestimable Treasure; and that there was a Collection of Plays of the best Authors: Heretofore, continued he, Virtuous persons could not think fit to go to Plays; there was nothing to be seen but Actions contrary to Modesty; they heard Discourses which were offensive; the Actors made honest people ashamed; there Vice was flattered, and Virtue condemned; the Scenes became bloody with Combats; the weakest was always oppressed by the strongest, and Custom gave continuance to Crimes. But since Lopes de Vega hath so successfully laboured to reform the Spanish Theatre, there is now nothing suffered contrary to good Manners: Both the Favourite, the Footman and the Ploughman, without disguise, keeping to their Native Simplicity, and making that pleasant by an ingenious turn, find the Secrets to cure our Princes, and even our Kings, of that common Disease to hear Truth, when their own Faults are represented. It was he who gave Rules for these Ascents, and who taught them to divide their Plays into Three Jornadas, or Acts. Since his time, we have seen flourish the Mount alvanes, the Mendoza's, the Rojas Alarcones, the Veles, the Mira de Mescuas, the Coelloes, and the Villaizanes. But above all, Don Pedro Calderone excelled as to the Serious and Grave Part, and even in the Comic Part he surpassed all those that went before him. I could not forbear telling him, That at Victoria I saw a Play, which to me seemed bad enough: And if I might speak my Judgement freely, I would not have them intermix with Holy Tragedies (which require great Respect, and according to their Subjects should be worthily managed) any idle or silly Jests. He replied, That by this I had said to him, he knew the Genius of my Country; that he had seldom observed the French to like what the Spaniards did; and as this Thought carried him to some displeasing Reflections, I assured him, That Naturally we have no Antipathy for any Nation; That we even thought ourselves obliged to do Justice to our Enemies. And as to Plays, though I had yet found none to my Fancy, it did not follow but that there might be others much better and more agreeable to me. The manner of my talking to him did a little compose him; so that he desired me to go into his Wife's Apartment, which was at the end of the Gallery.  
Don Fernand de Tollede, and the Three other Knights, tarried there, because it is not the Custom in Spain for Men to go into women's Chambers while they are in Bed: A Brother has not this Privilege, unless his Sister be sick. Donna Theresa received me in as kind and obliging a manner, as if we had been long acquainted. And this must be confessed, in praise of the Spaniards, that nothing of that sort of Familiarity which comes from want of, or a mean Education, appears in their Entertainments; for with great Civility and Earnestness they are very careful to pay what they own to others, and at the same time do not forget what's due to themselves. She was in Bed without any Coif or Cornet; her Hair was parted in the middle of her Forehead, tied behind with a Ribbon, and wrapped up with Carnation-coloured Taffeta: Her Shift was very fine, and of so vast a largeness, that it looked like a Surplice; the Sleeves were as big as men's, and buttoned at the Hands with Diamonds: Instead of narrow Point at the Neck and Hands, she had hers wrought with Blue and Flesh-coloured Silk in Flowers; her Ruffles were of White Taffeta Pinked.— She had several little Pillows tied with Ribbons, and trimmed with very broad and fine Lace; she had Bases all of Flowers of Point de Spain in Silk and Gold, which looked very pretty: Her Bed was all of Copper, Gilt, with little Balls of Ivory and Ebony; her Bed-Head was adorned with four Rows of little Copper Balisters, very well wrought.  
She asked me leave to rise, but when she came to put on her Stockings and Shoes, she caused the Key to be taken out of the Door, and that to be bolted. I enquired the Reason of this Barricading: She told me, That she knew there was with me some Spanish Gentlemen, and that she had rather lose her Life than they should see her Feet. I broke out into Laughter, and begged her to let me see them; for that I could not apprehend that the thing was of that moment. It is true indeed, that for their Littleness, they are something extraordinary; for I have seen Children of six Years old have as great. As soon as she was up, she took a little Cup full of Red, and with a good big Pencil she laid it on, not only upon her Cheeks, her Chin, under Nose, above her Eyebrows, and the Edges of her Ears; but she also bedaubed the inside of her Hands, her Fingers, and her Shoulders. She told me, That every Night at going to Bed, and every Morning at rising, they laid this Colour on; That she did not paint, and that she was willing enough to leave the use of this Red, but that it was such a General Custom, that it could not be dispensed with; for let one be of never so fresh a Colour, they would look pale and sickly when they were near others, if they did not use this Red. One of her Women perfumed her from Head to Foot, with excellent Pastils, the Smoke whereof she made to ascend to her; another took Orange-Flower-Water in her Mouth, and dexterously through her Teeth she sprinkled it like Rain upon her; and this they call Roussia. She told me, That there was nothing that spoiled the Teeth more than this was of squirting it, but that the Water smelled better for it. Of this I doubted, and I thought it very ugly, that an Old Woman, such as that was which I saw there, should come and spurt Water out of her Mouth, in my Face.  
Don Augustin having known by one of his Wife's Servants, that she was dressed, did not stand upon the Custom of the Country, but lead Don Fernand, and the Knights, into her Chamber. The Conversation was not long in common, but we divided; for my part, I discoursed with Donna Theresa, and she told me, she was born at Madrid, but was brought up at Lisbon with her Grandmother, who was Sister to Don Augustin Pacheco; so that her Husband was her great Uncle; and these sort of Alliances are often contracted in Spain. She talked to me much of the Young Infanta of Portugal, and boasted mightily of her Wit, and told me, if I would go into her Closet, I might judge of her Beauty, for she had her Picture there. I immediately went, and was surprised with the Charms I observed in this Princess. She had her Hair cut and curled like the Periwig of an Abbot, and an Invention for preserving Children from falling, so big, that there were upon it Two Baskets of Flowers, and little Vessels of a Medicinal Earth, of which they eat a great deal in Portugal and Spain, although 'tis an Earth that hath little Taste. Donna Theresa showed me the Skin of a Serpent, which her Husband killed in the Indies; and though it was dead, yet I was afraid of it. Those of this kind are extreme dangerous; but it seems as if Providence had taken care to preserve Men from them, for these Serpents have a sort of Bell about their Head, which rings when they move, and so gives notice to Travellers to secure themselves.  
This young Lady, who is a great Lover of Portugal, discoursed to me much in its Favour: She told me, That the Sea, which flows up into the Tagus, renders that River capable to bear the greatest Galleons, and the fairest Ships upon the Ocean: That the City of Lisbon stands upon the side of a little Hill, which insensibly descends to the very Brink of the Tagus: So that the Houses being built one above another, are all seen at once, and so becomes a very pleasant Prospect. The old Walls, which the Moors built about it, are yet standing: There are of them four Rounds, built at divers times; the last may have about six League's Circumference. The Castle, which stands upon a Hill, hath its particular Beauties: In it you see Palaces, Churches, Fortifications, Gardens, Armouries and Streets: There's always a good Garrison with a Governor: This Fortress commands the City, and from thence they may thunder upon it, in case it proves rebellious. The Palace where the King lives, is more considerable, if not for its Strength, yet for the Uniformity of its Buildings: Every thing there is Great and Magnificent; the Prospect it has to the Sea hath made them take so much care to beautify it. She discoursed to me afterwards of the Public Places, which are adorned with Vaults and Arches; and of the great Houses round about the Dominicans Convent, where the Inquisition is, before the Gate of which there is a Fountain, with a great many Statues of White Marble, which throw the Water every way. She added, That the Fair of Roucio is kept on the Tuesday of every Week, in a Place which might be taken for an Amphitheatre, because 'tis environed with little Hills, upon which are built several fair Palaces. There's another Place on the side of the Tagus, where the Market is kept; and there one may meet with every thing which can be desired, of the best in his kind, either in Fowl, Fish, Fruits, Herbs or Pulse. The Customhouse stands a little higher up, where there is infinite Riches and Rarities, and some Fortifications are lately made to preserve them. The Metropolitan Church is not eminent for any thing but its Antiquity: It is dedicated to St. Vincent; it is pretended, that after he had suffered Martyrdom, they refused him Burial, and that the Ravens watched over his Body, till some pious Persons came and took it up, and carried it to Valentia in Spain, to have it worshipped; and for this Reason there are Ravens kept in the Church; and there is a Box for them, into which are put the Alms to buy them Food.  
Although Lisbon, continued she, is a very pleasant place to live in, yet we dwelled at Alcantara: This Village is not above a quarter of a League from the City; There's in it a Royal House, not so fine for its Buildings, as for its Situation; the River supplies the place of a Canal: There one sees admirable Gardens, all filled with Grotts and Cataracts, or great Falls of Water, as well as Spouts of Water. Belem is not far from hence: it is the place designed for the Sepulture of the Kings of Portugal, in the Church of the Hieronimites: It is all covered over with White Marble; the Pillars and Statues are of the same; the Tombs are in even Rows in three different Chapels, amongst which there are some well wrought. Belem, Feriera, Sacavin, and some other places about the City, are remarkable for the vast quantities of Oranges and Lemons growing there; the Air you smell there is all perfumed; you can hardly sit down under the Trees, but you are covered with their Flowers; one sees running amongst them a Thousand little Rivulets, and it may be affirmed, that there is nothing more sweet in the Night, than the Murmurs and Harmony which are there frequently heard. At Belem there are great Magazines of Oranges, both sweet and sour Lemons, Pomecitrons and Lemons. They load them on small Vessels, and so transport them into most parts of Europe.  
Likewise she told me of the Knights deal Habito de Christo, of the Habit of Christ, whose Multitude made them less considerable; and also of the Counts of the Kingdom, which have the same Privileges as the Grandees of Spain; they are possessed of Las Comarcas, which are certain Lands belonging to the Crown, and divided into Counties of a considerable Value. She told me, That when the King intended to go abroad, the People had notice of it by a Trumpet, which sounds very early in the Morning in the place through which his Majesty is to pass. For the Queen, 'tis a Flute and a Drum; and for the Infanta, a Hauthoy. When they all go abroad together, the Trumpet, the Drum, the Flute, and the Oboe, march in a Company; and by this means, if any one which cannot get into the Palace to present a Petition, he need only wait for the King's coming by. Eight Leagues from Coimbre, there's a Fountain in a place called Cedima, which draws in, and swallows down every thing which touches its Water; Experiments are often made upon great branches of Trees, and sometimes of Horses, which they cause to be brought there, from whence they cannot get back, but with great difficulty.  
But that which causes the greatest wonder, added she, is the Lake of the Mountain of Strella, where there are often found the wracks of Ships, broken Masts, Anchors, and Sails, and yet the Sea is above twelve Leagues off, and this is upon the top of a very high Hill too; it cannot be imagined by what means all these things should come there. Whilst I was hearing with great delight Donna Theresa relate these things, her Husband and the rest of the Company came and interrupted us. Don Augustin was a Man of Understanding, and for all his Age, was very pleasant. If my Curiosity is not indiscreet, pray, Madam, says he, tell me, what Subject this Child has entertained you with? Mi Tio, replied she, that is, my Uncle, you may easily believe it was Portugal: Oh! I thought as much, cried he; There it is she always chooses her Field of Action. Dear God, says she, every body has some place they love, and when once you are got to your Mexico, one cannot draw you from thence. You have been in the Indies, resumed I, and Donna Theresa hath showed me a Serpent, which she says you killed there. It is true, Madam, continued he; and if it were not time for you to Dine, it would not, it may be, be unpleasant to you to hear of what I have seen there. But, says he, I should go to Madrid, and if you please, I'll bring to you Donna Theresa: It is there indeed, where I should lay the Scene of Discourse, and where I could tell you of things which I believe you would not be unwilling to know. I assured him, that he would do me a particular favour to give me so signal a mark of his kindness; and that I should be overjoyed to see the fair Donna Theresa, and to hear her talk of the Indies, she that discoursed so admirably of every thing. He took me by the Hand and led me down into a Hall paved with Marble, which was hung with Pictures instead of Tapestry, and set round with Cushions. Cloth was laid there upon a Table for the Men, but upon a Carpet on the Floor, it was laid for Donna Theresa, myself, and my Daughter.  
I was surprised at this Fashion, not having been used to Dine so; however I took no notice of it, and I had a mind to try it, but I was never more uneasy; my Legs ached most horribly: one while I leaned upon my Elbow, and then upon my Hand: In a word, I could not Dine, and yet the good Lady was not sensible of it, for she thought the Women in France were used to eat upon the Floor, as they did in Spain. But Don Fernand De Toledo, who observed me uneasy, risen from Table with Don Frederick De Cordonna, and both of them told me, that absolutely I should sit with them; I was willing enough, provided Donna Theresa would do so too; but she durst not, because there were Men, upon whom she did not so much as lift up her Eyes but by stealth. Don Augustin bid her come without Ceremony, and told her, that they must let me know, that they were glad to see me at their House. But that which was very pleasant, was, when this Lady was set upon a Chair, she was no less at ease, than I was when I sat upon the Carpet; she protested with a pretty sort of freedom, that she never before sat in a Chair, and that she had never once thought on't. Thus we dined very merrily, and there was nothing which could be added to the obliging manner of my Reception in this House. I gave to Donna Theresa some Ribbons, Pins, and a Fan. She was mightily pleased, and gave me as many thanks, as if the Present had been of value. Her thanks were not common, one could not observe in them any thing that was low or covetous. And to speak truth, they have abundance of Wit and Sense in this Country, it appears even in the smallest trifles.  
I had not been gone an hour from this House, when I saw coming towards us two Coaches drawn by six Mules a piece, which galloped a great pace, and faster than the best Horses could do. I could hardly have believed that Mules could run so fast. But that which I wondered most at, was the manner of their being harnessed. These two Coaches and their Furniture took up almost a quarter of a League of room. There was one with six Glasses indifferent large, and made like ours, except that the upper part is very low, and so, inconvenient. Within, it had a Cornish of Wood gilt, but so large, that it looked like one for a Chamber. The Coach was gilded on the outside, which is only allowed to Ambassadors and Strangers. The Curtains were of Damask and Cloth sewed together. The Coachman road upon one of the fore-Mules; they do not sit in the Coach-box, although there is one; and upon my ask the Reason of it, Don Frederick de Cardonna told me, that he had been assured, that this Custom had been ever since the Coachman of the Lord Duke D' Olivares drove his Master, who overhearing something of great Importance which the Duke told to one of his Friends, revealed it; the matter having made a great noise at Court, (for it seems the Duke accused his Friend of some indiscretion, which nevertheless he was innocent of) ever since, they have been so cautious to make the Coachman ride upon the first Mule. Their Traces are Silk or Hempen Cords, so excessive long, that from one Mule to another, there's above three els distance; and I cannot understand, but every thing should break at the rate they run. It is true, that though they run very fast in the Country, yet they go very softly in the City; and 'tis a tiresome thing to go so slowly as if they told their steps. And though at Madrid, they have but four Mules, yet they have a Postilion. My Relation was in the first of these Coaches, with three Spanish Ladies. The Gentlemen and the Pages were in the other, which was not made after the same manner. It had Boots, as formerly our Coaches had; they are to let down, and the Leather is open at bottom, so that when the Women come out (if they have no mind their Feet should be seen) the Boot is let down to the ground to hid their Shoes. It had Glasses twice as big as my hand, made fast to each end of the Coach, for the conveniency of calling to the Footmen. Nothing more resembles our Garret-windows than these do. The top of the Coach is covered with Grey Paragon, and the Curtains are of the same, large and long, hang without, and draw round, and are fastened with Buttons and Loops; This looks very ill, and you are enclosed within as if you were in a Box.  
My Relation was dressed, half French and half Spanish; she seemed overjoyed to see me, and I was no less to see her. As to her Person, I found her not at all changed; but I could not forbear laughing at her way of speaking: She now understands very little French, although she continually speaks and loves it so much, that it is impossible for her to learn any other Language: But she now mixes Italian, English, and Spanish with her own Natural Language; and this makes such a Jargon, as is very strange to one, who knew her, as I did, to have the French Language in its purity, and able to read Lectures of it to the Learned. She cannot endure to be told, that she has forgot it; and indeed she does not believe it, having never left off speaking it, either with some of her own Women, or with Ambassadors and Strangers, who generally understood it. Nevertheless, she speaks very ill: And if one is not at the Fountainhead, it is difficult long to speak a Language well, which is every day changing, and continually making new progresses.  
I found the Ladies which were with her extreme pretty: I do assure you, that there are in this Country some very handsome and aimable. We embraced each other often, and went back to Madrid. Before we came there we passed over a Sandy Plain, of about Four Leagues, but so uneven, that every moment we fell into holes big enough to bury the Coach, and which hindered it for going very fast. This uneven way lasted till we came to a little Village called Mandes, which is but half a League from Madrid. All the Country here is dry, and very open; you can scarcely see a Tree on any side you look: The City is situated in the middle of Spain, which is New-Castile. It is above an Age since the Kings of Spain have chosen to keep their Court in it, because of the purity of the Air, and the goodness of the Water, which really is so good and so light, that the Cardinal Infanta would drink no other when he was in Flanders; and he caused it to be brought by Sea in Earthern Jars, well stopped. The Spaniards pretend, that the Founder of Madrid was a Prince named Ogno Bianor, Son of Tiberino, King of the Latins, and of Manto, who was a Queen, more Famous for the Science of Astrology, which she understood to a wonderful degree, than for her Birth. 'Tis thought, that Madrid must be in the Heart of Europe, because the little Village of Pinto, which is not above Three Leagues from it, is called in Latin, Punctum; and that is reckoned to be in the Centre of Europe.  
The first thing I observed was, that the City is not enclosed either with a Wall or Ditch; the Gates, as one may say, are only made fast by a Latch; those which I have already seen, are all broken; there is not seen any place of Defence, neither Castle, nor in a word, any thing which might not be forced with throwing of Oranges and Lemons; but yet it might be necessary to Fortify this City: The Mountains which are round it, are of some use for its Defence; I have passed through some places of them, which are so narrow, that one might shut them up with a good big Stone, and with a hundred Men oppose the passage of a whole Army. The Streets are long and strait, and of a good largeness, but there's no place worse paved; let one go as softly as 'tis possible, yet one is almost jumbled and shaked to pieces; there are more Ditches and dirty places than in any City in the World, the Horses go up to the Bellies, and the Coaches to the middle; so that it dashes all upon you, and you are spoiled unless you either pull up the Glasses, or draw the Curtains which I have spoke of; very often the Water comes into the Coaches at the bottom of the Boots, which are open.  
The Houses there have rarely any great Gates to them, those which have, are without Courts. The Doors indeed, are pretty large; and for the Houses, they are very graceful, spacious, and convenient, though they are only built of Earth and Brick. I think they are altogether as dear as at Paris. The first Story which they raise belongs to the King, and he can either let, or sell it, unless the Owner of the House buy it off, which is almost constantly done, and this is a considerable Revenue to the King.  
There is commonly in every House Ten or Twelve Rooms on a Floor; in some Twenty and more; they have their Summer and their Winter Apartments, and very often, one for Autumn, and another for Springtime: So that having very great Families, they are forced to Lodge them in some Neighbouring Houses, which they hire on purpose for them.  
You must not wonder, Dear Cousin, that they have so many Domestics: There are two Reasons for it. The first is, that both for Food and Wages the Spaniards give but two Rials a day, which is not above  of our Money. I say, the Spaniards do this, for Strangers pay after the rate of four Rials, which is about Twelve pence of our Money. Neither do the Spaniards give to their Gentlemen above Fifteen Crowns a Month, with which they must wear Velvet in Winter, and Taffeta in Summer: But then they live only upon Onions, Pease, and such mean stuff, and this makes the Pages and Footmen as greedy as Dogs. But I should speak of the other Domestics as well as the Pages, for in this matter they are all alike, let them have what Wages they will. They are kept so very hungry, that in carrying the Dishes to the Table, they eat half the Victuals that is in them; they throw it into their Mouths so burning hot, that you shall observe their Teeth all rotten with the Practice. I advised my Kinswoman to get a little Silver Stew-pan made and fastened with a Pad-lock, like that I saw of the Arch Bishop of Burgos, and she did so and now after the Cook hath filled it, he looks through a little Grate to see whether the Soupe does well; and thus the Pages get nothing of it but the Steam. Before this Invention, it happened a hundred times, that when we thought to have taken up some Broth, we found neither that, nor any Flesh; for you must know, that if the Spaniards are Temperate, 'tis when the Expense is their own; they are not so, when they eat at another's cost. I have seen Persons of the Highest Quality eat with us like so many Wolves, they were so hungry: They were sensible enough of it themselves, and prayed us not to wonder at it, for they found the Ragoas after the French way, so excellent, that they could not forbear.  
There are Cooks-shops almost at every corner of a Street: These have great Kettles set upon Trevets. There folks may have such ordinary things as Beans, Garlic, Leeks, or a little Broth, in which they steep their Bread. The Gentlemen and Waiting-women go thither as other People, for at home they only dress Victuals for the Master and Mistress, and their Children. They are strangely Temperate in Wine; the Women never drink any, and the Men so little, that a quarter of a Pint will serve one a whole day. You cannot affront a Man worse, than to call him a Drunkard. Here's indeed, a great many things to make up the first Reason why they keep so many Servants. Now follows the second.  
When a great Man dies, if he had a hundred Servants, his Son keeps all he found in the House, without putting one away: When the Mother happens to die, either her own Daughter, or her Daughter-in-law takes into her Service all the Women-Servants; and this Custom holds to the fourth Generation, for they are never turned away. They are put, as I have told you, into Neighbouring Houses, and have their Ration, or Allowances. They come often to their Master or Mistress' House, but 'tis rather to show they are not dead, than to do any Service. I was to see the Duchess of Ossona, which is a very great Lady, and I was amazed to see so many Chambermaids and Women, for every Room was full of them. I asked her, how many she had? She told me, she had now only 300, but that very lately she had 500 more. If particular Persons have this Custom of keeping so many Servants, the King must needs keep abundance more, which without doubt is very chargeable to him, and must hurt his Affairs. I have been told, that in Madrid only, if the Pensions which he gives are reckoned, he gives Ration or Allowances to above Ten Thousand Persons.  
As to the King's House, the Provision for it is daily brought in, and it is regulated according to the Quality of the Persons. There is distributed both tame and wild Fowl, Fish, Chocolate, Fruit, Ice, Charcoal, Wax-Chandles, Oil, Bread, and in a word, every thing that is necessary for Life.  
Ambassadors have their certain Expenses, and so have some Grandees of Spain. There are Persons appointed to Sell at their Houses whatever I have just now named, and that without paying any Custom or Excise: And this saves them a great deal of Money, for the Duties upon all sorts of Goods and Wares are excessive high.  
None but Ambassadors and Strangers are allowed to have a great many Footmen and Pages to follow them: For by the Pragmatic (by which name they call all their Edicts of Reformation, they are forbidden to have any more than two Footmen to follow them.) It is somewhat strange, that they who keep four or five hundred Persons, may not be allowed above three to accompany them. This third, you must know, is a Groom, which goes on foot, and keeps near the Horses, to hinder them from putting and entangling their Legs in their long Traces, and he does not wear a Sword as the Footmen do: And I must needs say, that if Age is a recommendable Quality, these three Men have that in a good degree. I have seen Footmen of Fifty Years of Age, and never any under Thirty. They are very unpleasant to look at, being very tawny, and of a Clownish Aspect: They cut their Hair close on the top of their heads, only let a Round be a little long, but very greasy, and seldom combed. The Hair they cut on the top of their heads, is done in the shape of a Wild Boar's Head. They wear long Swords, with Shoulder-Belts and Cloaks. They are all clothed either in Blue or Green; and often their green Cloth Cloaks are lined with blue Velvet cut in Flowers; their Sleeves are either of Velvet, Satin, or Damask. One would think that these should be handsome Liveries, but yet I assure you, nothing is uglier; and their ill Looks disparage their Clothes. They wear Bands, but without any Collar, which is ridiculous. And upon their  they have neither Galloons, nor tufted Buttons and Loops, nor any sort of Lace or Trimming.  
Their Gentlemen and their Pages always go in a Coach that follows; these wear black  in all Seasons: In Winter they wear Velvet, with Cloth Cloaks very long, but when they Mourn, they draw upon the ground. Although they are Pages, they wear no Swords, only most of them have a little Poniard hid under their . In Summer they wear either Damask or Taffeta, with Cloaks of a black Stuff very light.  
It is only the great Lords, and the Tituladoes, or Men of Title, which are permitted to have four Mules to their Coaches with those long Traces in the City. If any Person, without the distinction of some Character, let him be as Rich as he will, should appear in the same Equipage, he would be affronted and abused in the open Street, his Traces would be cut, and himself Fined very high. Here, it is not enough to be Rich, a Man must also be of some Quality. The King only, can have six Mules to his own Coach, and to those of his Attendants; which Coaches are not like others, and are distinguished by this, that they are covered with green Oyl-Cloth round, as well as on the top, just as the Stage-Coaches in France, except that they are not of Wickers but the carved Work is very coarse, and ill done, and they have falling Boots, and all is very ugly; and one would wonder how so great a King can make use of them. But I have been told, that these fashioned Coaches were in use in Charles the Fifth's time, that his were just like them; and that it is in imitation of so great an Emperor, that all the Kings which have Reigned since, will have no other. Without doubt there must be some such great Reason; for notwithstanding this, the King has as fine Coaches as any are in the World, some made in France, and others in Italy, and other Parts. The great Persons have also very stately ones; but after the King's Example, they do not use them four times a Year. All Coaches are kept in large Courts, in which there are several Partitions enclosed. There are it may be to the number of two hundred in one Yard, and there are several of these Yards or Courts in divers parts of the City. The Reason why they set them abroad is, because they have no room for them at home, their Houses being built, as I have already said, without Courts or great Gates. Of late, they begin to alter their Fashion, and use Horses instead of Mules. And to be just, these Horses are extreme beautiful; there is nothing wanting to them, and it would be difficult for the best Painters to draw any in greater Perfection. But 'tis a piece of Cruelty to make them draw such huge Coaches, which are almost as heavy as a House; besides the Streets are so very ill paved, that their Feet are quite spoiled in two Years time. They cost very dear, and are not big enough for their Coaches. But I have seen some draw their pretty little Calashes, which were all painted and gilt, like those which are made in Holland, and nothing looked more pleasant; and by their swift running, and handsome carrying of their Heads, you would take them for Stags. As soon as you are out of Town you may put six Horses to your Coach. Their Harness are very neat, and they trim their Manes, which hang to the ground, with Ribbons of divers colours; and sometimes they dress up their Manes with a great many puffs of Silver, Gauze, which makes a very pretty show. The Harness for their Mules, are made of Leather, flat and broad, with which they cover them almost all over.  
Two days ago I went with my Kinswoman to walk without St. Bernardine's Gate. 'Tis a place they frequent in Winter. Don Antonio of Toledo, Son to the Duke of Alva, was there, with the Duke of Vzeda, and the Count of Altamire. He had a Harness for his Horses of an Isabel colour, which so pleased me, that I could not forbear speaking to him of it when his Coach came near ours. According to Custom, he told me, that he laid them all at my Feet; and at Night when we got home, I was told, that his Gentleman desired to speak with me. He made me a Compliment, and told me, that his Master's six Horses were in my Stable. My Kinswoman fell a laughing, and made Answer for me, that I was so lately arrived at Madrid, that I did not yet understand, that one must not praise any thing which belonged to so generous a Cavaliero, as Don Antonia; but however, 'twas not the Fashion to receive Presents of so great value, and desired him to take them back again. But this he would not do, we sent them back immediately; he returned them, and so did we. To be short, the whole Evening passed thus in sending backwards and forwards; and at last, we were forced to write him a Letter, and give ourselves a great deal of trouble to persuade him not to take it ill, that I would not accept them.  
I am told, that after the King has once made use of a Horse, in Respect to him, no body afterwards will ride on him. It happened, that the Duke of Medina De las Torres had bought a Horse worth Five and Twenty Thousand Crowns, he was the handsomest and the bravest which was ever seen. He caused his Picture to be taken; King Philip the Fourth saw it, and had a mind to see the Horse. The Duke begged him to accept of him; but he refused him, and gave this Reason, That as he should seldom ride on him, and that no body would make use of him after he had mounted him, so the strength and usefulness of the Horse would be lost.  
It is usual here for good Families to put their younger Daughters to Ladies; by whom they are employed for the most part to Embroider in Gold and Silver, or in Silk of various colours, about their Shift-Necks or Hands: But if they are left to follow their own Natural Inclination, they work very little, and talk much. They keep also both Male and Female-dwarves, and very ugly ones: The Females particularly have very frightful looks, their Heads are bigger than their Bodies; they always wear their Hair lose about their Ears, and hanging down to the ground: At first sight, one would wonder what these little Figures were when they present themselves before one's Eyes. They wear Rich ; they are their Mistress' Confidents, and for this Reason, they are denied nothing they have a mind to.  
In every House at a certain stated hour, all the Women meet with the Mistress of the Family, in the Chapel, there to repeat their Rosary aloud; they make use of no Book to say their Prayers by; indeed it is very seldom they have any. The Count of Charny, who is a Frenchman, very handsome, and of great worth, and is the King of Spain's General of his Horse in Catalonia, told me, that the other day being at Mass, and as he was saying his Prayers by his Book, an Old Spanish Woman came and snatched it from him, and with great Indignation threw it to the ground, saying to him, Let this alone, and make use of your Beads. It is a strange thing to consider how continually fond they are of their Beads; every Woman there has a pair fastened to her Girdle, and so long, that they almost touch the ground. They are perpetually without ceasing using them, in the Streets, as they play at Omber, as they Discourse, nay, when they are making Love, when they are telling Lies, or speaking Evil of their Neighbours. They are continually muttering over their Beads, let them be in never so much Company, nothing of this hinders them still to keep on their pace. I leave you to judge what Devotion there can be in this; but Custom has a great Power in this Country.  
Till of late, Women wore Vertingales of a prodigious bigness; this Fashion was very troublesome to themselves as well as others. There were hardly any doors wide enough for them to go through: But they have left them off now, and only wear them when they go to appear in the Queen's or the King's Presence: Commonly in the City they wear a certain sort of Vestment, which to speak properly, is a young or little Vertingale. They are made of thick Copper Wyre in a round form, about the Girdle, there are Ribbons fastened to them, with which they tie another round of the same form, which falls down a little lower, and which is wider; and of these they have five or six rounds which reach down to the ground, and bear out their Petticoats and other Garments. They wear a vast number of this Device; and one would hardly believe that so little Creatures as the Spanish Women are, could bear such a load. Their upper Garment is always of corpse black Taffeta, or of a grey plain Stuff made of Goatshair, with a Truss or Fardel coming down a little above the Knees, and round the upper Garments; and if you ask them to what end this serves? they'll answer you, that with this they can make it longer as it wears out. The Queen-Mother, as well as others, uses this to all her Garments. Even the Carmelites wear them in France as well as in Spain. But as to Women, it is rather a Fashion which they follow, than any Frugality; for they are neither Covetous nor good Housewives, and of these things, they have two or three new ones in a Week. These upper Garments are so long before and on the sides, that they draw a great deal upon the ground, but behind, they do not draw at all. Though they wear them down so low, yet they will tread upon them, that their Feet may not be seen, which are the parts they most industriously hid. I have heard say, that after a Lady has Obliged her Gallant by all possible Civilities and Compliance, to confirm to him her Kindness, she will show him her foot; and this here, they call the highest Favour; one must needs own, that in its kind, there is nothing prettier. As I have already told you their Feet are so small, that their Shoes look like those of our Babies. They are made of black Spanish Leather, cut upon coloured Taffeta, without Heels, and as straight as a Glove. When they go, you would think they flew; we should not in a hundred Years learn their way of walking; they keep their Elbows close to their sides, and go without raising their Feet, just as one slides. But to return to their Habits; under this plain upper Garment, they have a dozen more, one finer, than another, of rich Stuffs, and trimmed with Galloons and Lace of Gold and Silver, to the Girdle. That I have told you a dozen, pray do not think that I exceed the Truth: During the excessive Heats of the Summer, they only wear seven or eight, of which some are of Velvet, and others of thick Satin. They wear at all times a white Garment under all the rest, which they call Sabengua; it is made either of the fine English Lace, or of Muslin embroidered with Gold, and so wide, that they are four els in compass. I have seen of these worth five or six hundred Crowns. At home they wear neither the little Vertingale nor Patens, these last are a sort of little Sandal, made of Brocado or Velvet, set upon Plates of Gold, which raise them half a Foot, and when they have these, they walk very ill, and are apt to fall. They use but very little Whale-bone in their Stays, the midst of which are a third part of an Ell. One can hardly see in other Country's Women so slender. They shape their Bodies before pretty high, but behind, you may see them to the middle of the back, they are so naked, and yet this is no Charming sight, for they are all dreadful lean, though they would be very sorry to be fat. And this is a great Error among them. Besides, they are very swarthy; so that this brown Skin which is glued to their backs, must necessarily be displeasing to those who are not used to it. They put Red upon their Shoulders, which are all naked, as well as on their Cheeks. Neither do they want there for White, which is very good, but there are few which know how to use it; at first sight you can discern it. I have seen some of a very clear Complexion that was Natural. Most of them have very fine and exact Features; in their Looks and all their Actions you may see a little affectation of being Courted, which their Humour does not dissemble. It's reckoned beautiful among them to have no Breasts, and they take care very early to hinder them from growing big. As soon as they begin to appear, they bind thin pieces of Lead upon them, as close as one would swaddle a Child. And indeed their Breasts are as flat and even as a sheet of Paper, except the holes and hollowness, which their leanness causes, and those are pretty many. Their hands have no defect, they are little, white, and well shaped. Their large Sleeves, which they fasten at the bottom of their wrists, still contribute to make them appear less. These Sleeves are made of Taffeta of all colours, like those of the Egyptians, with Ruffles of broad Lace. Their Stays are commonly of Gold and Silver Stuffs, mixed with lively colours; the Sleeves of them are very straight, and their Silk Sleeves appear instead of their Shifts. Nevertheless, People of Quality wear very fine Linen; but all others wear little or none. It is scarce and dear, besides, the Spaniards have that foolish Vanity to desire it very fine; insomuch, that they had rather have but one such Shift than half a dozen a little coarse; and either lie in Bed till 'tis washed, or else dress themselves without any, which they frequently enough do. They use this fine Linen after an ill manner when they wash it; for the Women lay it upon rough stones, and so beat it hard with a stick, by which means, there shall be a hundred holes in't immediately. There's no difference between the best and the worst Laundress; all these Creatures are very awkward.  
But I return to the women's , which I have often left, that I might give an Account of several things which occurred to me. I must tell you, that they wear about their Necks Bonelace, embroidered over either with red or green Silk, or Gold or Silver. They wear Girdles all of Medals and Relics. There are divers Churches which have not so many; they wear also the Cord of some Order, either of St. Francis, the Carmilites, or some other. It is a small Cord, made either of black, white, or brown Wool, and is worn on the outside of their Stays, and hangs down before to the edge of their Petticoats. They are full of knots, and commonly upon every knot there's a Diamond-stone fastened. They make Vows to some Saint or other to wear their Cords; but if the reason of these Vows was enquired into, it would not be found very good.  
They have great store of Jewels, the finest that can be seen. Neither is it enough to have one Sett of Jewels, as our Ladies in France have, but these must have Eight or Ten; some of Diamonds, others of Rubies, Emeralds, Pearls, Turkey-stones; and in short, of all sorts. But the Workmen set them very ill, for the greatest part of the Diamond is hid, very little of it is seen. I asked the reason of it, and they told me, that to them, the Gold looked as well as the Stones. But I am of Opinion, that their Lapidaries do not understand how to set set them better. I must except Verbec, who can do them well if he will take the pains.  
The Ladies wear at the top of their Stays a broad knot of Diamonds, from whence there hangs a Chain of Pearl, or ten or twelve knots of Diamonds, which they fasten at the other end, to their sides. They never wear any Necklace, but they wear Bracelets, Rings, and Pendants; which last are longer than one's Hand, and so heavy, that I hare wondered how they could carry them without tearing out the hole of their Ears. To which they add whatever they think pretty. I have seen some have good large Watches hanging there, others Padlocks of Precious Stones, and even your fine wrought English Keys, and little Bells. They also carry upon their Sleeves, their Shoulders, and all about their Bodies, Agnus Dei's, and little Images. They have their Heads stuck full of Bodkins, some made of Diamonds in the shape of a Fly, and others like Butterflies, whose colours are distinguished by various Stones. They dress their Heads after several Fashions, but still they must be naked; they part their Hair on the sides of their Heads, and lay it cross on their foreheads; it shines so, that without lying, one may see themselves in it. Formerly they wore a Tress or Lock of Hair, the worst made that one should see, and this fell all spread upon their Shoulders, lest their own Hair should mix with it, which indeed is very fine. They have usually five-broided Rolls, to which they fasten Knots of Ribbons, or else Pearls, and these they tie altogether to their Girdles, and in Summer when they are at home, they wrap them up in a piece of coloured Taffeta, trimmed with Thread Bonelace. They never wear any sort of Coif, either Night or Day. I have seen some which had their Heads dressed up with Feathers like little Children: These Feathers are very curious, and spotted with different colours, which make them much more beautiful. I cannot imagine, why they do not make such in France.  
The Young Women, or newmarryed, have very Rich , and their upper Garments are coloured and embroidered with Gold. I was to see the Princess of Monteleon: She's a little Body, not above Thirteen Years old, and she is lately married to her Cousin-German, named Don Nicholas Pignatelli; her Mother is the Daughter of the Duchess of Terra Nova, nominated to be Camarera major, or first Maid of Honour to the new Queen. These, that is to say, the Duchess of Terra Nova, D'Hijar, and Monteleon, with the Young Princess of the same Name, and her little Sisters, dwell all altogether. The Duchess of Terra Nova may be about Threescore Years old; my Kinswoman is one of her intimate Friends, and she received us with such Civility and Kindness as is not usual with her: For it may be, there is not in the World a more haughty Spirit, which her very looks declare. Her voice is harsh, she speaks little, and would be thought of a kind and good Nature; but if what is said, be true, she is not really so: One shall hardly meet with a greater share of Wit, and a more piercing Judgement, than she has; she discoursed to us much of the Place she was going to take upon her in the Queen's House. Says she, I'll neglect nothing to make myself acceptable to her, I'll endeavour to discover every thing that may please her; I am sensible that a Young Princess, born in France, must be allowed a greater Liberty than an Infanta of Spain, born at Madrid. So that by me, she shall not be able to find any difference betwixt this and her own Country. She presented me with a pair of Beads of Paulo D'Aguila, which is a curious sort of Wood that comes from the Indies. Really they are so long, that when I hold them in my hands they reach to the ground. They are trimmed with two bunches of small green Taffeta Ribbon, each bunch has about three hundred els in it. She gave me also some Puoatoes of Portugal, which are Pots and Dishes made of that Medicinal Earth, and are adorned with Filigrane Work: And she presented me likewise with several other pretty Toys.  
One can hardly see any thing that looks more splendid than this House of theirs; they use the upper Apartments, which are hung with Tapestry all done with raised Work of Gold. In one great Chamber, which is longer than 'tis broad, you may see several Glass-doors which go into Closets or little Cells. The first of which is the Duchess of Terra Nova's, hung with grey, and a Bed of the same, and all other things very plain. On one side Lodges her Daughter, the Duchess of Monteleon, who is a Widow, and has her Room furnished like her Mother's. Afterwards you come to the Princess of Monteleon's Chamber, which is not larger than the others, but her Bed is of Gold and green Damask, lined with Silver-Brocade, and trimmed with Point De Spain. The Sheets were laced about with an English Lace of half an Ell deep. Over against it were the Chambers of Monteleon and Hijar's Children, which were Furnished with white Damask. Next to these is the little Chamber of the Duchess of Hijar, Furnished with Crimson-coloured Velvet upon a Gold Ground. Their Rooms were not otherwise divided than by Partitions of a certain Sweet Wood; and they told me, that six of their Women lay in their Chambers, upon Beds brought thither at Night.  
The Ladies were in a great Gallery, spread with a very rich Foot-cloth; there were set round it Crimson-coloured Velvet Cushions embroidered with Gold, and they are longer than they are broad: There were also several great Cabinets in laid and adorned with Precious Stones, but they are not made in Spain; and between them were Tables of Silver, and admirable Looking-Glasses, both for their largeness and rich Frames, the worst of which were of Silver. But that which I thought finest, were their Escaparates, which is a certain sort of a close Cabinet with one great Glass, and filled with all the Rarities which one can imagine, whether it be in Amber-grease, Porceline, Crystal, Bezoar-stone, Branches of Coral, Mother of Pearl, Fillagran in Gold, and a thousand other things of Value. There I saw a Fish, and upon its Head there was a little Tree; it was neither of Wood nor of Moss; it grew on the top of the Fish's scull, which is very small. This seemed to me a great Curiosity.  
We were above threescore Women in this Gallery, and not so much as one Man among us. They all sat down upon the Floor crosslegged. This is an Old Custom, which they have derived from the Moors. There was only one great Elbow-Chair of Spanish Leather stitched with Silk, and very ugly. I asked for whom it was designed? They told me it was for the Prince of Monteleon, who came not in till after all the Ladies were retired. I could not long sit after this fashion, and therefore I got some Cushions under me, five or six of which were fastened together by a Silver brace full of Olive-stones, that it might not break through. When any Lady comes to Visit, the He or She-Dwarf comes to give Notice, by kneeling down upon one Knee, upon which all the Company rises, and the Young Princess walks before as far as the Door to receive her which comes to see her after her Marriage. In Saluting each other, they do not kiss, perhaps, that is, because they will not rub off the colour from one another's Faces; but they shake Hands with their Gloves off, and in Discourse, they say Thou and Thee; and without calling one another either, Madam, or Lady, or Highness, or Excellency, they only say, Donna Maria, Donna Clara, or Donna Theresa. I was willing to know the reason of this Familiar way, and I learned it was to avoid all occasion of Offence amongst them; and that as there were different ways of speaking to distinguish the great difference of Quality and Degree, and that it was not easy to observe all the Rules about them without sometimes giving distaste; therefore to prevent which, they have chosen to speak to each other without any Ceremony at all. I must also add, that the Women here do not intermix, and so these are always Persons of Quality together. The Wives of the Long Robe never so much as go to visit the Court-Ladies, and a Man of Birth ever Marries with a Woman of Quality. Here one never sees those which are not Gentlemen mix with the Nobility, as in France; so that there can be little danger, as long as they Associate together. If there comes in a hundred Ladies one after another, every one rises up as often, and they go, as in Procession, as far as the Antichamber to receive them. I was so tired that day, that I was in a very ill Humour.  
They were all very well dressed; and as I have already told you, they have very rich , and their Jewels are extreme fine. There were two Tables for the Game of Ombro, at which they played very high, and without any Noise. I could not understand their Cards; they are as thin as Paper, and painted after a quite different way from ours. One of those Cards looks as if one held a Letter; when they have a good Game in Hand, it were easy for a Cheating Gamester to discover several of their Cards, if not the whole Game.  
While they played, they discoursed of News, of the Court and the City: Their Conversation is free and pleasant, and it must needs be confessed, that they have a certain quickeness of Wit, which we cannot come up to. They are very kind and friendly; they love to praise, and do it after a gentile way, very ingeniously, and with great Judgement. I am amazed to find such strength of Memory joined with so great a degree of Wit and Understanding. They are compassionate, even almost to a fault. They Read little and Writ not much; but yet by that little which they do Read, they improve much, and that little they Writ is both exact and concise.  
Their Features are very regular and delicate; but their excessive leanness offends one that is not used to it. They are of a brown Complexion, and their faces very smooth: The Smallpox must needs not do them so much hurt here, as in other Countries, for I have seldom seen any marked with them.  
Their Hair is as black as Jet, and very shining, notwithstanding there is cause to think that they comb long with one and the same Comb, for t'other day I saw at the Merchioness of Alconnizas' (who is Sister to the Constable of Castille, and whose first Husband was the Count and Duke of Olivares) her Toylet spread; and although she is one of the neatest and richest Ladies, and the Toylet was laid upon a little Silver Table, yet it was only furnished with a little bit of calico, a Looking-Glass no bigger than one's Hand, two Combs, and a little Box, and in a small China Cup some White of an Egg beat together with Sugar-candy. I asked one of her Women what she did with this; she told me, this was to take the dirt off her Face, and to make it shine. I have seen some whose Faces were so bright, that you would wonder. One would think that they were Varnished over; and the Skin is so pulled and rubbed, that I am confident it does a great deal of hurt. Most of the Women make themselves Eyebrows, and they have only as 'twere a little thread of Hair, which in my mind looks very ugly; but that which is yet worse, is, they comb the middle of their Foreheads so much till they make their Eyebrows meet; and this with them is extreme Beautiful.  
But yet there are a great many whose Fancies do not lie this way; I have seen some Spanish Women more exact to the Rules of Beauty than our French Women, notwithstanding their way of dressing , and the little Advantage which they give to their faces. One may say, that they are like things made out of Rule, for they have neither Hair, nor Cornet, nor any Ribbon, to set them off; and yet, what Country can show such Eyes as theirs? They are so very sprightly, and declare so much Wit, and by them, talk to one in a Language so kind and intelligible, that if they had no other Charms, these alone would make them pass for handsome Women, and unavoidably steal away ones Affections. Their Teeth are very even, and would be white enough, if they took a little care of them, but they neglect them; and besides, their frequent use of Sugar and Chocolate does them much hurt. They have all a bad Custom here, the Women as well as the Men, which is to pick their Teeth, let them be in what Company they will: This they reckon as a Diversion, and do it with grave looks. They do not so much as know what belongs to having them cleaned by an Artist, there is no such Trade there, and when they need them to be drawn out, they get the Surgeons to do it, if they can.  
At my first coming in to Visit the Princess of Monteleon, I was surprised to see so many Young Ladies with great Spectacles on their Noses, and fastened to their Ears; but that which yet seemed strangest to me, was, that they made no use of them where it was necessary: They only discoursed while they had them on; I was disturbed at it, and asked the Marchioness De la Rosa (with whom I have contracted a dear Friendship) the reason of it: She's a pretty sort of Woman, and understands how to live. She has a neat Wit, and is a Neapolitan. She fell a Laughing at my Question, and told me, that it was done to make them look grave, that they did not wear them for any need, but to draw Respect. Do you see that Lady, says she to me? meaning one that was near us, I do not believe, that since she was Ten Years Old, she ever left them off, but when she went to Bed. Without lying, they both eat with them, and in the Streets and Assemblies you can never fail of meeting abundance of Men and Women with their Spectacles. Upon this occasion, I must needs tell you, continued she, that sometime ago, the Jacobite Friars had a Suit in Law of high Importance; the success of which they were too much concerned for, to neglect any means. One of the Young Fathers of the Convent had some Kindred of the greatest Quality, which upon his Account did solicit very hard on their behalf. The Prior assured him, that if through his Credit and Interest they should get the better of the Suit, he could ask nothing that should not be granted him for an Acknowledgement: At last, they gained their Point, and the Young Father, transported with Joy, immediately ran to tell the News, and at the same time prepared himself to ask a Favour which a long time he had had a mighty desire to obtain. But the Prior, after having embraced him, with grave looks and tone, said to him, Hermano, ponga las Ojalas, that is to say, Brother, put on Spectacles. The Honour of this Permission filled the Young Monk with a strange Joy; he thought himself and his care too highly recompensed, and had nothing else to ask. The Marquis of Astorgas, Viceroy of Naples, added she, had his Statue to the middle cut in Marble, upon which he was very careful to cause his best Spectacles to be put. It is so common a thing to wear them, that I have heard, there are different Spectacles, according to the different Qualities and Degrees of Men and Women. Proportionably as a Man's Fortune rises, he increases in the largeness of his Spectacle-Glasses, and wears them higher upon his Nose. The Grandees of Spain wear them as broad as one's Hand, which for distinction, they call Ocales. They fasten them behind their Ears, and leave them off as seldom as they do their Collars. Heretofore they had the Glasses of them from Venice; but ever since the Enterprise of the Marquis of Cueva, which was called the Triumvirate, because they were three Persons who undertook to Fire the Arsenal of Venice with Burning-Glasses, and by this means to make the King of Spain Master of that City: The Venetians, to be revenged, caused a vast number of those Ocales to be made, and sent to their Ambassador at Madrid. He presented of them to the whole Court, and all that used them were almost blinded with them; for they were made of burning Glass, and very artificially done, and set in certain Frames made of combustible Matter, which with the least Rays of the Sun would put all in a Flame. It happened upon a Council-day, that in the Room where they sat, one of the Windows was left open, and the Sun shining perpendicularly upon their Spectacles, all on a sudden they perceived a dangerous sort of fire contrived against their Eyebrows and Hair; one can hardly imagine what a fright these venerable old men were in. I could wish, said I to the Marchioness, that this story were credible, for 'tis very pleasant. As I did not see it, replied she in smiling, so I cannot positively assure you that 'tis true: But the business of the Jacobite Friars which I have related to you, I had from the best Authority. I have since, observed several Persons of Quality in their Coaches, sometimes alone, and sometimes in Company, with these great Spectacles hung upon their Noses, which in my Mind, is a strange sight.  
This Princess gave us a Collation, her Women, to the number of eighteen, brought every one of them a great Silver Bason full of dry Sweetmeats, wrapped up in Paper, for that purpose cut and gilt. In one, there was a Plum, in another a Cherry or an Apricock, and so in all the rest accordingly. This to me seemed very neat, for by this way, one might either eat or carry away, without soiling the Fingers or Pockets. There were some ancient Ladies, who after they had eat of these Sweetmeats till they were ready to burst, filled five or six Handkerchiefs full, and they bring them on purpose; and although they are well observed, yet no notice seems to be taken, but they are suffered to take as much and as oft as they will; they tie these Handkerchiefs with strings quite round their little Vertingales: This is like the hook which is used in a Pantry, upon which is hung all sorts of Flesh and Fowl. Afterwards they present you with Chocolate, every one a China Cup full upon a little Dish of Agat set in Gold, with Sugar in a Box of the same. There was some Chocolate ordered with Ice, and some hot, and some made with Milk and Eggs: One drinks it with some Biscuit, or else with some thin bread as hard as if it were toasted, which they make so on purpose. There are some Women which will drink six Cups one after another, and this they do, very often twice or thrice a day. One should not wonder that they are so dry, since nothing is hotter than this Liquor; and besides, they eat every thing so very high seasoned with Pepper and Spice, that one would think it impossible they are not burnt up: There were several also, which eat great pieces of the Medicinal Earth. I have already told you, that they have even a great passion for this Earth, which frequently causes in them great Obstructions; their Stomaches and their Bellies will be swelled with it, and become as hard as a Stone, and they themselves as yellow as Saffron. I had a mind to taste this Ragove which is so much esteemed beyond its worth, but I declare I had rather eat a piece of a Stone.  
If one had a mind to oblige them, one must treat them with such kind of things which they call Barros; and very often their Confessors enjoins them no other Penance, than to forbear one whole day from eating thereof. It is said to have a great many Properties; and is good against Poison, and cures abundance of Diseases. I have a great Cup made of it, which holds a pint; it spoils Wine that's put into it, but it makes Water excellent, which seems as if it boiled in it, at least one may observe it to work and fret, if it is proper to say so; and if one leaves it a little while, the Cup shall be quite empty, the nature of the Earth makes it so full of Pores; it has a strong sent. We drank Water there, which was very well ordered; one may truly say, that in no place they drink it cooler: They make use only of Snow, and are of Opinion that it cools much better than Ice; It is the custom here to drink very cold Water before they take their Chocolate, which otherwise they think would be unwholesome.  
After the Collation was ended, Flamboys were brought in; there came in first a little simple Fellow, white with Age, who was Governor of the Pages: He had a great Gold Chain and a Medal about his Neck; this was the present he had at the Prince of Monteleon's Marriage: He kneeled down upon one Knee in the middle of the Gallery, and aloud, said, Let the Most Holy Sacrament be praised; to which every body answered, For ever: This is their Custom, when Light is brought in. Next came in four and twenty Pages following two by two; and in the same manner kneeled upon one Knee; every one of them brought two great Flamboys, or one Branch, and when they had placed them upon the Tables, went out with the same Ceremony. And then all the Ladies made to each other a low bow, accompanied with a wish, as when they sneeze. It is fit I should tell you, that these Branches are full of Lamps fastened to a silver Pillar, whose foot is very broad; there are most times eight and twelve Pipes to every Lamp, in which the Week burns, so that this gives a very great Light. And to increase it yet more, they fasten a silver Plate to it, in such manner, that the Light reflects upon it. One is not troubled with the Smoke, and the Oil they burn is altogether as good as that of Provence, which is eat with Salads. I liked this fashion very well. When all the Lights were put in their proper places in the Gallery, the young Princess of Monteleon bid her Women bring her Wedding-clotheses, that I might see them; they brought thirty silver Baskets full, which were as deep and as wide, as Table Baskets; they were so heavy, that there were four Women to carry one Basket. In them there was, what ever is possible to be seen that is fine and rich, according to the fashion of the Country; amongst other things, there were six of a certain sort of close Coat of Gold and Silver Brocard, made like Vests to wear in a Morning, with Buttons, some of Diamonds, and others of Emeralds, and of these every one had six dozen. The Linen and the Lace were not inferior to the rest. She showed me her Jewels also, which were admirable, but so ill set, that the biggest there made no better a show than a Jewel set in Paris, which one might buy for thirty Lew's.  
I will not write to you often, because I will always have a stock of News to tell you, which in this place, is pretty long in picking up. Pardon this tedious Letter, and the little Method which I have observed in it; I set things down just as they come into my Mind, and that's ill enough; but in your Love, dear Cousin, I am safe from all my faults.  
From Madrid, this 29th. of March, 1679.   

LETTER IX.  
I Fear you'll take it ill that I have omitted writing to you one Post; but dear Cousin, I was willing to be informed of divers things, which I am now going to relate.  
And first, I will speak of the Churches of Madrid, which I find extreme beautiful and neat: The Women of Quality seldom go to them, because they all have their Chapels in their Houses; but there are certain days in the year, they never fail to be at them, of which number are all the days in the Passion-week; and there also they make their 
* Go to receive their Indulgences.  Stations, and sometimes go to Confession.  
Our Lady's Church of Atocha, that is to say, our Lady of the Bush, is indeed a very fine one. It stands within a vast Convent, which is filled with Religious Women, who seldom or never go out of it, that being one of their Rules they are to observe. They lead an austere Life; and from all parts, People come to pay their Devotion here; and when the Kings of Spain have gained any Victories or happy Success, thither they go to sing Te Deum. There you'll see a Virgin holding a young Jesus, which they report to be miraculous. She's of a black Complexion, and very often they dress her up like a Widow; but upon great Festivals she is richly clothed, and so adorned with Jewels, that nothing can be seen more magnificent. She hath in a particular manner the Sun drawn rown her Head, whose Beams shine admirably. She always has a vast pair of Beeds either in her Hand, or hung at her Girdle. This Chapel is on one side of the body of the Church, and in such a place, as it would be very dark, were it not that there's continually burning above an hundred great Lamps of Gold and Silver. The King has his Gallery there, whose forepart is made up with a Lattice Window. In all their Churches they make use of Hassocks to kneel on; and when a Person of Quality, or a strange Lady comes in, the Sexton spreads a large Carpet before 'em, upon which he either sets an Oratory with Cushions, or else he leads 'em to certain little Closets, all painted and gilt, with Glass-windows round, where one is very conveniently placed. There never fails a Sunday that the Altar is not illuminated with above an hundred thick Wax Candles. It is ●●kewise adorned with a prodigious quantity of Plate, and so are all the Churches in Madrid. Here are abundance of fine Walks made of your green Turf; and set full of Flowers, in which they place a great many Fountains, from whence the Water falls into Basins, either of Silver, or Marble, or Porphiry-stone. Round about them they plant great numbers of Orange-Trees, as high as a Man, and these are set in very fine Boxes; and among these they turn lose several Birds, which make a pretty sort of Music. And this as I have described to you, lasts almost all the year; neither are their Churches ever without Orange or Jassemin Trees, which perfume them much better than their Incense.  
In the Chapel which they call our Lords of Almunada, you see a Virgin, which they tell ye St. James brought from Jerusalem, and hid in a Tower which is in the middle of Madrid. The Moors having besieged the City, the Inhabitants were reduced to so great a want of Provisions, that they were deliberating to Surrender, when on a sudden they found this Tower full of Corn; they concluded such a plentiful and seasonable Supply could be no less than the effect of a Miracle; this filled them with Joy and new Courage, and made them so vigorously defend the City, that the Moors toiled with a long Siege, were forced to retire. Afterwards, they found the Image of the Virgin, and in gratitude, they built a Chapel for her, upon the Walls of which, this whole History is painted in Fresco. The Altar, Rails, and all the Lamps are of solid Silver.  
The Minime Friars have a Church near this, in which is the Chapel of our Lord of Soledad, where the Salutation is every Night said; this is a place of great Devotion; I mean for those that are truly devout, for there are a great many Persons which make it their Rendezvouz for other ends.  
But St. Isidore's Chapel surpasses all in beauty. He is the Patron of Madrid, and he was but a poor Labourer. The Walls of the Chapel are all cased with Marble of divers Colours, and its Pillars are of the same, and so are some Statues of certain Saints: His Tomb is in the middle, and four Pillars of Porphiry supports over it a Crown cut in Marble, in which are represented Flowers, whose Colours are so very natural, that one may say, Art has outdone Nature. The Cupulo without is adorned with the Images of the Twelve Apostles, which stand round it.  
I saw at St. Sebastines, (which at present is my Parish) a Canopy which the Queen-Mother caused to be made, for the carrying the Holy Sacrament to the Sick in bad Wether: It is made of Crimson Velvet embroidered with Gold; it is covered with Chagrin, and nailed with Gold Nails; it has several great Glasses about it, and in the middle of its roof, there is raised a sort of Steeple, which is full of little Bells of Gold, Four Priests carry it when any Person of Quality is sick, and desires to receive the Sacrament, and all the People at Court attend it. There are about a thousand Flamboys of white Wax to give Light, and several musical Instruments play before it. They make some stay at all the great Places in their way, to give leave to the People to kneel and receive the Benediction, and to let the Musicians play upon their Harps and guitars, and sing to them. It is generally in the Night time, that they carry it with so much Ceremony and Respect.  
When they are to celebrate a Festival in some Church, the Evening before they set up a long Pole fastened in the Ground, on the top of which is a kind of a deep Chaffingdish, which they fill with wooden Chips mixed with Brimstone and Oil: This burns a long while, and gives a very great Light; they place these Poles in the form of Allies, which make a delightful sort of an Illumination.  
The Women which go abroad to Mass, hear a dozen of them, but show so much Distraction and wand'ring of Thoughts, that one may easily perceive their Minds are employed on some other thing than their Prayers. They wear Muffs that are above half an Ell long; they are made of the finest Martin's and Sables which can be seen, and are worth 4 or 5 hundred Crowns apiece. They must stretch back their Arms as far as possible they can, to be able only to put their finger's ends into the entrance of their Muffs. I fancy, I have already told you that the Women are extreme little, and these Muffs are very little less than themselves. They always wear a Fan too, and be it in Summer or Winter, they never cease fanning themselves all the time of Mass. In the Church they all sit upon their Legs, and are continually taking of Snuff, and yet never smut themselves with it, as 'tis usual; for in this, as in all other things, they have very neat and dextrous ways of management. Every time the Elevation is made, both the Women and Men give themselves a score of blows with their fists upon their Breasts; which makes such a noise, that the first time I heard it, I was very much affrighted, and thought they were beating one another.  
As to the Cavalleroes, (I mean those which by Profession are Gallants, and wear a piece of Crape round their Hats) as soon as Mass is ended, they march up to the place where the Holy Water is kept, and ranging themselves round it, they present of it to all the Ladies, who also come thither, and at the same time say something to them that's kind; to which the Women make a pertinent answer in few words; for it must needs be granted, that they speak precisely what they should, and that ex tempore, without any trouble of studying for words. But the Pope's Nuncio, has upon pain of Excommunication, forbidden the Men to present the Women any Holy Water. And 'tis said, that this Prohibition was obtained at the Entreaty of some jealous Husbands. However it be, it is observed, and they say, the Prohibition even forbids the Men to give each other any Holy Water.  
Let the Spanish Women be of what quality they will, they neither have Cushions in the Church, nor any kind of Train held up. For our parts, as soon as we appear there in our French , every body gets round about us; but the most troublesome of all, are the big bellied Women, which are more inquisitive than the others, and for whom they have here, the greatest respect and complaisance; for 'tis pretended, that if they long for any thing, and miss of it, they receive so much hurt, that they immediately miscarry; so that they have a liberty to pull off ones Gloves, and to tug, hale, and examine every body as they list.  
At first, I could not take such kind of Jesting, and talked to them so roughly, that some of them went away weeping, and durst not return: But there were others which were not so easily put out of Countenance; they would see my Shoes, my Garters, and what I had in my Pocket; my Kinswomen seeing I would not permit them, told me that if the People once took notice of me, they would certainly stone us, and bid me let them have their humour. My Women and Chambermaids were yet worse tormented than I; and I am ashamed to tell you, how far the curiosity of these big-bellyed Women proceeded.  
I was told that there was a young man at Court, who was desperately in love with a very fine Woman, whose Husband continually kept under his Eyes; so that finding no other way to speak to her, he disguised himself like a Woman big with Child, and so went to her House; he addressed himself to the jealous Husband, and told him, he had the Lantajo (which is the word for Longing) to discourse with his Wife in private. The Husband deceived by this appearance, made no question that this was a young big bellied Woman, and immediately consented that his Wife should make this Person happy with a long and pleasant audience.  
When any of these Women long to see the King, they give him notice of it, and he has the Goodness to come into a great Balcon, which looks into the Palace Court, and there he tarries as long as they desire.  
Not long since a Spanish Woman just come from Naples, sent to beg the King that she might see him, and when she had looked upon him as long as she had a mind, in a transport of Zeal, with hands lifted up, she said to him, I beseech God, Sir, that of his Mercy, he would one day make you Vice Roy of Naples. 'Tis said, that this Passage was acted before the King, to inform us, that the Magnificence of the then Vice Roy, who was not beloved, far exceeded his. Very frequently there comes into my Relation's House, womans which are perfect Strangers, to whom nevertheless she is very kind and civil, because they are big with Child, and such we must not vex.  
Thanks to Heaven, Lent is over, and though I only observed the Passion-Week, yet that was more tedious to me, than a whole Lent kept at Paris, for there's no Butter here; that little which one meets with, is brought about Thirty Leagues off, wrapped up like Sausages in Hogs Bladders. It is full of Worms, and very dear. But the Oil makes amends, for 'tis very excellent; only you know, every body loves it not, and I am one of those, which cannot eat it, without being very sick.  
That which makes it yet worse here, is, that Fish is very scarce; it is impossible to have any sweet which is caught in the Sea, for that is distant from Madrid above Fourscore Leagues. Sometimes there is Salmon brought, of which they make Pies, which being seasoned with Spice and Saffron, is eatable. There's very little Freshwater Fish, and yet for all this, they do not suffer much Inconvenience, for indeed, there's hardly any body keeps Lent, neither Master nor Servant, because of the great want of Provisions. They take a Licence from the Pope's Nuncio, which costs about a Shilling, which gives them leave to eat Butter and Cheese all Lent, and the Heads, Feet, and Inwards of Fowl, etc. every Saturday throughout the Year. And it seems to me pretty odd, that on this day they should eat the Feet, Head, and Inwards, and yet dare not eat of any other part of the same Creature.  
The Shambles are as open in Lent, as they are in the Carnaval. Their way of selling Meat is very troublesome; it is close shut up in the Butcher's Shop, one speaks to him through a little Window, and desires to buy of him half a Calf, or the like; he neither vouchsafes to answer you, nor to show you the least bit of Meat; at last, you are content with a Loin of Veal; but he makes you pay your Money down beforehand, and then through his little Window he gives you a Leg of Mutton; you return it, and tell him, this is not what you ask for; he takes it again, and instead thereof he gives you a short Rib of Beef; than you make a noise for your Loin, but he concerns himself no further than to throw you your Money, and shut the Window upon you. This vexes one, and you go to another, and he treats you after the same manner, if not worse; so that it is best, to tell them how much Meat you would have, and leave the rest to them. This Flesh is ill for the Stomach, it is so lean, dry, and black; but as bad as 'tis, yet there's less required of it than of ours in France, to make a good Soup. Every thing here nourishes so extremely, that an Egg does one more good than a Pigeon elsewhere; and this I take to be an Effect of the Climate.  
As to their Wine, it does not please me; this is not the Country where the Excellent Spanish Wine is drank, that comes from Andalousia and the Canary-Islands, which must pass the Sea too, to gain that strength and pleasantness which we find in it. At Madrid the Wine is strong enough, if not too strong, but i● wants that delicious taste. Add to this, that they keep it in Bags made of Buck-skin, and fitted up for that purpose, so that it always smells and tastes either of Pitch, or as if it was burnt. I now begin not to wonder that Men are so temperate with such Liquor. They'll sell as little a quantity of it as one will, even to the value of a French Double: But that which is so retailed out to the poor People, is yet made worse than it would be, by their letting it stand all day in an open Earthen Basin, out of which they sell to those who have a mind. It grows sour, and smells so strong, that it makes one's Head ache in passing by.  
Lent makes no alteration in their Pleasures, indeed they are so moderate, or at least those they use make so little noise, that they enjoy them at all times.  
No body fails of going to their Station in Passion-Week, but particularly from Wednesday to Friday. In these three days, there is acted very different things, by real Penitents, Lovers, and Hypocrites. There are divers Women, which under pretence of Devotion, constantly go to certain Churches, where for a Year before, they are assured to meet him they Love; and though they are attended with several of their Women, which they call Duennas, yet as the Crowds are great, and Love makes them ingenious, so they make a shift in spite of all the Argus', to slip on one side into a little adjoining House, which by a private sign they know, and is hired for that purpose, and without the help of any body, but at that very moment of time. When they have done, they return to the same Church, where they find their Women busy in searching for them; they fall a chiding them for their carelessness in losing them; and thus the Husband, who for a whole Year hath industriously watched his dear Wife, loses her at that very season when she is obliged to be the most faithful to him: The great Constraint they live under, puts violent desires in them to enjoy some freedom; and their very Amorous Nature makes them Witty to find out means to bring about their Designs.  
'Tis an unpleasant thing to see the Disciplinarians: The first time I met one of them I thought I should have swooned away. The unexpectedness of such a terrible sight seized me; fancy a Man coming so near you, that he'll cover you all over with his Blood; this, it seems, is one of their Pastimes: there are certain Rules by which to Discipline themselves handsomely, and Masters to teach the Art, just as to Dance and to Fence. They have a sort of a Gown made of their Baptist Cloth very fine, which comes down to their Shoes; it is laid in small plights, and so prodigiously wide, that it contains at least fifty els of Cloth. They wear upon their Heads a Cap three times higher than a Sugar-loaf, and of the same shape: It is covered with Holland, and from it falls a great piece of Cloth which hides all the Face and the forepart of the Body; there's two little holes in't to see through: On the back of their Waistcoats they have two great holes upon their shoulders; they wear white Gloves and Shoes, and abundance of Ribbon which ties their Wastcoat-sleeves, but hanging down, and not in knots. They also tie one to their Whip; commonly 'tis their Mistress which Honours them with this Favour: And to be the more admired, they must not lift up their Arms, only the Wrist and the Hand, and the blows must not follow hastily, nor the Blood which runs out spoil their . They give themselves most terrible cutes and slashes upon their shoulders, from whence runs streams of Blood. They walk so softly in the Streets as if they counted their steps; they present themselves before their Mistress' Window, and there with wonderful patience lash themselves. The Lady through the Lattice of her Chamber sees this fine sight, and by some sign encourages her Gallant to Flay himself alive, and lets him know how very kindly she takes this Action of his. When they meet a handsome Woman, they whip themselves after such a rate, as to make the Blood fly upon her: This is esteemed a particular Civility, and the Lady acknowledges and thanks them for it. When once they have begun to give themselves this Discipline, the preservation of their Health obliges them afterwards to use it every Year, otherwise they would be sick. They have also little Needles stuck in Sponges, with which they prick their shoulders and their sides so eagerly, as if it did not hurt them. But I'll tell you something yet stranger. Several Courtiers often take this Walk in the Night: But they are commonly the Young Fools, and they give notice to all their Friends of their Design, who immediately come to them very well Armed. The Marquis De Villa Hermosa was one of them this Year, and the Duke De Vejar was the other. This Duke went out of his House about Nine a Clock at Night, he had a hundred Flamboys of white Wax carried before him, two by two. Threescore of his Friends went before, and a hundred followed after him, and every one had his Page and Footmen; and it was a very long Procession. It is known when Men of this Quality are to walk; so that all the Ladies are in their Windows, and hang out their Carpets in their Balconies; and that they may the better see and be seen, they have Flamboys fastened to the sides. The Knight of Discipline with his Guard, passes along, and salutes the Spectators. But that which often causes a great deal of Mischief, is, when the other Disciplinarian, who stands upon his Honour and Reputation, marches with his great Company in the same Street. This happened to these Persons I have now mentioned. Each of them would have the upper hand, and neither would yield it. The Footmen with their Flamboys began to lay one another over the Faces, and burn their Whiskers and Hair; the Friends of each Party drew their Swords against one another. Our two Heroes, who were only Armed with this Instrument of Penance, search for each other, and being met, being a most terrible Battle. After they have used a little Discipline about one another's Ears, and covered the Ground with the ends of their Whip-cords, they fall to downright Fifty-cuffs like any Porters: Though after all, there's but little matter to laugh at in this piece of Mummery, for they beat one another well-favouredly; they wound, and often kill; and here old Enmities revive and are revenged. But at last, the Duke de Vejar yielded to the Marquis De Villa Hermosa; they gathered up their broken Whips, and mended them as well as they could: The great Cap, which was thrown into the Canal, was wiped and put upon the Penitent's Head again; the wounded were carried home, and the Procession began again, and they walked more gravely than ever, through a great part of the City.  
The Duke had a great mind the next Morning to be revenged; but the King commanded both him and the Marquis not to stir out of their Houses. But to come to what they do upon these Occasions: You must know, that after these Servants of God are returned home, there's a magnificent Supper prepared of all sorts of Meats; and observe that this is on the last day of Passion-Week: But after so good a Work, they think they may do a little Evil. Immediately the Penitent causes his shoulders to be a long time rubbed with Sponges dipped in Vinegar and Salt, lest there should remain any bruised Blood; after that, he sets himself at the Table with his Friends, and receives from them the Eulogies and Applauses which he believes he has merited. Every one in his turn, tells him, that in the Memory of Man, none was ever seen to to receive the Discipline with so good a grace. They magnify all his Actions, but above all, the Happiness of that Lady for whose sake all this Bravery was performed. The whole Night is spent in such kind of Discourse, and sometimes he that has been so well floged, is so sick, that he cannot go to Mass on Easter-day. Do not think that I use any Art to set out the History of this matter to make you merry, it is all literally true, and I tell you nothing, which you may not be satisfied in, from every body that has been at Madrid.  
But there are also true Penitents, which indeed troubles one extremely to look on them; they are dressed just as those who gives themselves the Discipline, except that they are naked from the shoulders to the middle, and with a kind of a narrow Matt are swaddled and bound so very hard, that all the Flesh which appears is black and blue; their Arms stretched out, are wrapped about with the same Matt. They carry to the number of seven Swords sticking in their Backs and Arms, which hurt them grievously when they stir too much, or happen to fall, which they often do; for they going barefoot, and the stones in the Streets being sharp, and cutting their Feet, they cannot possibly always keep themselves up. There are others, who instead of these Swords carry Crosses so very heavy, that they are even born down with them; neither would I have you think that these are of the ordinary People, some of them are of the highest Quality. They are forced to have several of their Servants to accompany them, but they are disguised, and their Faces covered, lest they should be known. These carry Wine, Vinegar, and other things, to give their Master from time to time, who very frequently drop down dead with the extreme pain and toil they endure. Generally these Penances are enjoined by their Confessors, and they are so very severe, that he which undergoes them seldom outlives the Year. The Pope's Nuncio told me, that he had forbid all Confessors to impose them; yet I have seen divers, though in likelihood it proceeded from their own Devotion.  
From the beginning of Passion-Week to Low-Sunday, one cannot stir out of Door without seeing an infinite number of Penitents of all sorts; and on Good-Friday they all come to the Procession, which is but one general one for all the City, and is composed of all the Parishes and Convents. Upon this day, the Ladies are more finely dressed than on their Wedding-days; they place themselves in their Balconies, which are set out with rich Carpets and Cushions. Sometimes there's above a hundred Women together. The Procession gins about four a Clock, and is not ended till past eight; for I cannot express to you the numberless Number of People I have seen, counting from the King, Don John, the Cardinals, Ambassadors, the Grandees, the Courtesans, to all sorts of Folks, both of the Court and City. Every one holds a Wax-Candle in his Hand, and all their Servants, which are numerous, carry Torches and Flamboys. In the Procession, all their Banners and Crosses are covered with Crape, and there's a vast number of Drums covered with the same, and they beat, as at the Death of a General. The Trumpets sound some Melancholy Tune. The King's Guards, which are four Companies of different Nations, to wit, Burgundians, Spaniards, Germans, and L'Ancillians, have their Arms covered with Mourning, and trail them upon the ground. There are certain Machine's, set upon Theatres, which represent the Mysteries of the Life and Death of our Lord; the Figures are as big as Life, but very ill made and dressed: There are some so heavy, that a hundred Men can but lift them, of which there's a vast number, for every Parish has some. I observed that of the Blessed Virgin flying into Egypt; she was upon an Ass which had good Furniture; the Housing was all over embroidered with fine Pearls, the Figure was very great and heavy.  
Here they are afraid lest sometimes the People should fail in their Devotion at Easter, and therefore for that reason, each Parish-Priest goes to every House, and inquires of the Master, how many Communicants he has? Being informed, he notes the Number in his Book: To every one that has received the Communion, they give a Printed Certificate. After Low-Sunday they visit all the Houses again, and demand to see the Certificates, which they ought to have according to the first Account taken of them; and if they can show none, there's a strict enquiry made after him or her who has not Communicated. At this time the Poor who are sick, hang out a Carpet at their Door, and the Sacrament is brought to them in a very fine and Devout Procession.  
Since my being at Madrid, I have seen very few stately Funerals, except one for the Duke of Medina Celi's Daughter. Her Coffin was made of rare Indian Wood, put into a blue Velvet Bag, and crossed with silver Mohair, with Cords of silver Thread, and the strings were of the same, and fastened the Bag at each end, like a stuff Cloak-bag. The Coffin was in a Hearse covered with white Velvet, set round with Garlands and Coronets curiously made of Flowers. And thus they carried her to Medina Celi, the capital City of the Duchy of that Name.  
Commonly they dress up the dead in the habit of some Religious Order, and carry them all barefaced into the Church where they are to be buried. If it is a Woman, they put her on the habit of the Carmelites. This Order is in great Veneration here; the Princesses of the Blood retire to their Convent. The Queens themselves, when they are Widows, are obliged to spend the rest of their Life there, unless the King otherwise appointed before his Death, as Philip iv did in favour of Queen Mary Ann of Austria his Wife. And in case a Queen is Divorced, she must go into a Religious House; for Divorced or Widow, she has not the Liberty to marry again.  
The Kings of Spain presume so much above other Kings, that they will not endure a Princess who has once been their Wife, should ever be so to another, let her have the greatest Passion in the World.  
Don John hath a natural Daughter, a professed Carmelite at Madrid. She is wonderful handsome, and 'tis said she had no mind to take the Habit; but it was her fate, as 'tis of divers others of her Quality, who like it no more than she.  
They call them the Descalcas Reales, which is to say, The Royal bare-feets. This reaches even to the King's Mistresses, whether they be unmarried or Widows, when he can love them no longer, they must turn Nuns.  
I have seen some of the Works of St. Theresa, writ with her own Hand; the Character is Legible, large, and indifferent fair. Donna Beatrix Carillo, who is her Neece's Niece, keeps them very choicely. It was she that showed them to me. They consist of a Collection of Letters; I do not believe they were ever Printed; there's a great deal of Perfection in them; and throughout, one may discover a certain air of cheerfulness and sweetness of Nature, which sufficiently declares the Character of that great Saint.  
All the time of Lent, and even at other times, one meets with Preachers at every corner of a street, whose Sermons are ill enough contrived, and do as little good; but however in preaching as they do, they both satisfy their zeal and their desire. Their most constant Auditors are the blind Folks, which resemble our fingers upon Pont-Neus. Every one of them being led by a little Dog which does it very well, they go about singing of Romances and Cacara, which are certain old Stories or Modern Events, which the People are very glad to know. They have a little Drum, and a Flute, on which they play. They often sing a Song on King Francis the First, it beginning, When the King left France, to his Sorrow he left it, etc. Now I doubt you know it, dear Cousin, for who does not: This Song is sung in very bad French, and by Folks that do not understand one word of it; All that they understand is, That the King was taken by the Spaniards; and as this Price was much for their Glory, so they are willing to convey the Memory of it down to Posterity. There's a Flower-de-Luce all gilt upon the roof of the Chamber where this King was Prisoner; and I must not omit telling you, that the Prison is one of the fairest Buildings in Madrid; the Windows are as large as those of other Houses. There are indeed Iron Bars, but they are all gilt, and set at a distance great enough, to make any one think they were not designed to hinder escapes. I stood amazed at the seeming neatness of a Place which in reality is unpleasant enough, and I thought that in Spain, they had a mind to contradict the French Proverb, which says, That, There's neither any handsome Prison, nor ugly Love. Pardon this Proverb, I do not love them so well to trouble you often with them.  
All the Householdstuff one sees here, is extreme rich, but not so neatly made as ours in France, and they come altogether short of our skill. It consists of Tapestry, Cabinets, Paintings, Looking-Glasses, and Plate. The Vice-Roys of Naples, and the Governors of the Low-Countries, have had most admirable Tapestry; the Vice-Roys of Sicily and Sardinia, show most excellent Embroideries and Statues; those of the Indies, Precious Stones, and Vessels of Gold and Silver. So that several returning home from time to time, laden with the Riches of another Kingdom, cannot choose but to have enriched this City with abundance of valuable things.  
They change their Furniture several times a year; their Winter-beds are of Velvet trimmed with thick Galoons of Gold; but they are so low, and the Valens so deep, that one is as if they were buried in them; and when one is in Bed, the border of the Valens lying almost upon the Counterpain, one can hardly be seen. In Summer they have neither Curtains, nor any thing else about the Bed; this looks very ill. Sometimes they hang coloured Gauze to keep off the Gnats.  
In Winter they have their Apartments very high, sometimes in the fourth Story, according as the cold increases, to keep them from it. At present they use their Summer Lodgings, which are low and very commodious. All their Houses have a great many Rooms on a floor; you go through a dozen or fifteen Parlours or Chambers one after another. Those which are the worst lodged have six or seven; the Rooms are generally longer than they are broad, the Floors and Ceilings are neither painted, nor gilt, they are made of Plaster quite plain, but so white that they dazzle one's Eyes, for every year they are scraped, and whited as the Walls, which look like Marble, they are so well polished. The Court to their Summer Apartments is made of certain matter, which after it has had ten Pails of Water thrown upon it, yet is dry in half an hour after, and leaves a pleasant coolness; so that in the Morning they water all, and a little while after, they spread Mats or Carpets made of very fine Rushes, which cover all the Pavement. The whole Apartments are hung with the same small Matt about the depth of an Ell, to hinder the coldness of the Walls from hurting those which lean against them. On the top of these Mats, there are hung Pictures and Looking-Glasses. The Cushions which are of Gold and Silver Brocado, are placed upon the Carpet, and the Tables and Cabinets are very fine, and at little distances there are set Silver Cases or Boxes, filled with Orange and Jessemin-Trees. In their Windows they set things made of Straw, to keep the Sun out, and in the Evenings they walk in their Gardens. There are several Houses which have very fine ones, where you see Grotta's and Fountains in abundance, for they have great plenty of Water here, and 'tis very good. In the number of these fine Houses they reckon, the Duke D'Ossona's, that of the Admiral of Castile's Lady, the Countess of Ognate, and the Constable of Castille; but I do wrong in particularising of them, for there are a considerable number of them.  
For the rest, it seems to me, that the great care they take, prevents the heats (let them be never so excessive) from being troublesome to them. But do not fancy, I beseech ye, that only the great Lords have their low Apartments, for indeed every body else has them according to their Ability; though it be only a little Cellar, they'll live in't very contentedly.  
There are but few ordinary People at Madrid, one seldom sees any but Persons of Quality, if seven or eight Streets which are full of Tradesmen, are excepted. You see no Shops in this City, unless it be those where Sweetmeats, Liquors, Ice, and Pastry are sold.  
I will not neglect telling you, that a thousand People here, have their Canopies; for without reckoning the Princes and the Dukes, the Titled (of which there is a vast number) have theirs also. These Titled, are those they call the Grandees of Spain, the real Marquises, and the real Counts. If there be thirty Chambers on a floor in a House, you shall there see as many Canopies. My Kinswoman has twenty in her House: The King has made her Marchioness of Castille. You cannot imagine how gravely I look under a Canopy, particularly when they bring me my Chocolate; for three or four Pages clothed in black like Lawyers, serve me upon Knee. This is a Custom I had much ado to bring myself to, for methinks this respect ought to be paid to God only. But it is so common here, that if a Cobler's Apprentice should present an old Shoe to his Master, he must do it with knee upon the Ground. This quality of Titulos gives them divers Privileges, of which I have already told you, and particularly that of having a Canopy. They use no Balisters about their Beds.  
I have observed to you before, Dear Cousin, that our Houses are not near so well furnished in France, as the Persons of Quality here are, but chief as to Vessels of Silver, the difference is so very great, that one which had not seen it could hardly believe it: They use no Vessel of Tin or Pewter, but either Silver or Earthenware only, is what they make use of; and you must know their Plates here, weigh little less than our Dishes in France, every thing is made so strangely heavy.  
The Duke of Alburqerque died some time ago. I have been told, that they were six Weeks in weighing his Vessels of Gold and Silver, and writing them down; during this time they employed two whole hours every day; this was very chargeable. Amongst other things, there were fourteen hundred dozen of Plates, five hundred great Dishes, and seven hundred little ones, and of every thing else proportionably; there were also forty Silver Ladders to set things on the Cupboard, which was made to ascend by little Steps, like your Altars in a great Hall. When they told me of such great Wealth of a particular Man, I thought they jested with me, and therefore desired the Confirmation of it from Don Antonio de Toleda, Son to the Duke of Alba, who was in the same House; he assured me it was very true, and that his Father, who did not esteem himself rich in Vessels of Silver, had three hundred dozen of Silver Plates, and eight hundred Dishes. The mighty Meals which they make do not require such great store, unless it be at their Marriages, where every thing is magnificent. But that which causes such great abundance of Vessels, is, that they are brought from the Indies ready made, and pay no Custom to the King. The truth is, they are little better shaped than their pieces of four Pistols, which they stamp in the Galeon as they come from that Country.  
It would grieve a body to see the ill management of some great Lords; there are divers which will never go to their Estates, (for so they call their Lands, their Towns and Castles) but pass all their Lives at Madrid, and trust all to a Steward, who makes them believe what he judges most for his own Interest. They will not so much as vouchsafe to inquire whether he speaks true or false; this would be too exact, and by consequence below them. This methinks is one considerable fault; the strange profusion of Vessels only for an Egg and a Pigeon, is another.  
But it is not only in these things which they fail, but 'tis also in the daily Expenses of their Houses; they know not what it is to lay up stores, or make Provision of any thing, but every day they fetch in what they want, and all upon trust, at the Bakers, Cooks, Butchers, and all other Trades; they are even ignorant what they set down in their Books, and they put down what price they will for every thing they sell, this matter is neither examined into, nor contradicted. There are often fifty Horses in a Stable, without either Corn or Straw, and they perish with Hunger; and when the Master is in Bed, and should be taken ill in the Night, he would be at a great loss; for they let nothing remain in his House, neither Wine nor Water, Charcoal nor Wax-candle, and in a word, nothing at all; for though they do not take in Provisions so near that there is nothing left, yet his Servants have a Custom of carrying the overplus away to their own Lodgings, and the next day they furnish themselves with the same things again.  
They observe no better Rules with the Tradesmen; a Man or Woman of Quality had rather die, than to haggle for, or ask the price of a Stuff, or Lace, or any other thing, or to take the remainder of a piece of Gold; they rather choose to give it the Tradesman for his pains of having sold them that for ten Pistols, which was not worth five. If there is a reasonable price made, he that sells to them is so honest not to take advantage of their easiness to give whatever is asked them; and as they have Credit given them for ten years together without ever thinking of paying, so at last they find themselves under great difficulties with their Debts.  
It is very rare they engage in tedious Suits at Law, or let things come to extremity; they bring themselves to account, call their Creditors, and make over to them a certain part of their Lands, which for a limited time they enjoy. Sometimes they give up every thing, and reserve only a Pension for Life, which cannot be meddled with by any Creditors who may afterwards sell or lend any thing to them; and to the end they be not defrauded of it, they publish the agreement between the Lord and his Creditors.  
All Law-paper is marked, and costs more than the other. There's a certain time when they make a distribution of Law-Suits; they give the Instructions at Madrid, but there are few judged there; all the Papers of one side are put into a Bag, and those of the other, into another Bag, and the Instructions into a third; and when the time to distribute the Law-Suits is come, they send them to some distant Parliaments, so that very often one's Cause is tried and judged without knowing any thing of it: It is writ in a Register whether the Cause was sent, which is kept very secret. When Judgement is given, it is sent back to Madrid, and is signified to the Parties. This Method saves a great deal of Trouble and Solicitations, which in my Opinion ought always to be forbidden. As to business here, it is excessive tedious, whether it be at Court or in the City, and ruins one in a little time. The Spanish Practitioners are great Knaves in their Trade.  
There are several different Councils, all composed of Persons of Quality, and the greatest part are Counsellors of the Sword. The first is the Council of State, the others are called the supreme Council of War, the Royal Council of Castille, the Alcaids of Court, the Council of the Holy Inquisition, the Council of Orders, the Sacred, Supreme and Royal Council of Arragon, the Royal Council of the Indies, the Council of the Chamber of Castille, the Council of Italy, the Council of the Finances, the Council of the Croisado, the Council of Flanders, the Court for the Duty of Horse, the Court for his Majesty's Woods, and the Courts of the Millions.  
They understand so little how to manage things to the best advantage, that when a Father dies and leaves ready Money, and some Children under Age, that they lock the Money up in a Chest, and never put it out to be improved. For Example, The Duke de Frias, whose Widow is married to the Constable of Castille, left three Daughters, and six hundred thousand Crowns in ready Money, they put it into three Chests, with with the Name of each Daughter. The Eldest was not seven years old; she is now married in Flanders to the Prince de Ligne. The Guardians constantly kept the Keys of these Chests, and never opened that of the Eldest, but to count it to her Husband. Observe what a loss there is of Interest: But they tell you it would be much worse, if the Principal happened to be lost; that sometimes when one thinks they have put it securely out, it proves quite otherwise: That a Bankrupt makes one lose all; so that it is better to gain nothing, than to hazard the Pupil's Estate.  
It is time to come to an end, Dear Cousin; I shall be afraid to tyre you with a longer Letter: I beseech you cause all those I send you, to be delivered, and pardon the freedom I take; Adieu, I embrace and constantly love you with all my Heart.  
From Madrid this 27th of April, 1679.   
The end of the Second Volume.   

A RELATION OF A Voyage to SPAIN, IN Several Letters. The Last PART.  

LETTER X.  
YOU did me a particular Kindness in letting me know that all my Letters come to your hands, for I was a little concerned for the Two last: And since you still desire it, (dear Cousin) I shall continue to inform you of every thing that passes, and of all that I observe in this Country.  
The Royal Palace is built upon a Hill which insensibly descends to the very Banks of the River called Mansanarez: It looks several ways upon the Country, which is very pleasant there. One goes to it through the Callemayor, that is to say, the Great Street, which indeed is both very long and broad, several considerable Houses add to its Beauty. There's a large open place before the Palace, no body of what Quality soever, is allowed to come with a Coach into the Court, but they stop under the great Arch of the Porch, except it be when Bonfires are made there, or when there are Masquerades, and then Coaches go in, a very small number of Halbardeer stand at the Gate, upon my ask, why so great a King had so small a Guard, why, Madam, says a Spaniard to me, Are not we all his Guards? He reigns too absolutely in the Hearts of his Subjects, either to fear any thing, or distrust them. The Palace stands at the end of the City towards the South, it is built of very white Stone, Two Pavilions complete the Front, the rest is not regular. Behind it, there are two square Courts, each consisting of four sides, the first is adorned with two great Terrass-walks, which run quite through, they are raised upon high Arches, and are beautified with Balisters and Statues: That which I observed very singular, was, that the women's Statues had Red upon their Cheeks and Shoulders, you go through fine Porches which bring you to the Staircase, which is extreme large, the Apartments are furnished with excellent Pictures, admirable Tapestry, most rare Statues, stately Household Goods, and in a word, with every thing suitable to a Royal Palace. But there are divers of the Rooms dark, I saw some which had no Window, and received Light only when the Door opened, those which have Windows are but little lighter, because of their smallness, they allege that the Heat is so excessive, that they are willing to hinder the Sun from coming in, as much as they can. But there's yet another Reason, for Glass is very scarce and dear; and as to other Houses, there are many which have Windows without any Glass; and when they would describe a complete House, they'll tell you in one word, that 'tis Glazed. This want of Glass does not appear without, because of the Latices. The Palace is addorn d with divers gilt Balconies, which indeed look very fine. All the Councils sit there, and when the King has a mind to be present, he passes through certain Galleries and little Entries unperceived. There's a great many People persuaded, that the Castle of Madrid, which Francis the Fifth caused to be built near the Wood of Bologn, was after the Model of the King of Spain's Palace; but 'tis a mistake, and nothing is less alike. The Gardens are not suitable to the Dignity of the Place, they are neither large enough, nor so well improved as they should be, the Ground as I have observed, reaches to the very Brink of Mansanarez, the whole is enclosed with Walls; and if these Gardens have any Beauty, they own it purely to Nature. They work hard to get the Young Queen's Apartment ready for her Reception, all her Servants are named, and the King expects her with the greatest Impatience.  
The Buen Retiro is a Royal House near one of the Gates of the City, the Count Duke caused at first, a little house to be built there, and called it Galinera, it was for keeping his rare Poultry in, which had been presented to him, and as he often went to see them, and the Situation of the Place was on the descent of a little Hill, and there was a pleasant Prospect, so he was invited to undertake a considerable Building. Four great Apartments and four great Pavilions make a perfect Square. In the middle there's a Flowerpot, well furnished with Flowers, and a Fountain, whose Statue (which throws the Water when they have a mind) Sprinkles the Flowers and the Cross-Walks, which goes from one Apartment to another. This Building has the fault of being too low, the Rooms are large, stately and adorned with curious Paintings. Every thing shines with Gold and lively Colours, with which the Ceilings and Floors are beautified. I took notice in the great Gallery, of the Entry of Queen Elizabeth, Mother to the late Queen, she's on Horseback, with a Ruff and Fardingal, she has a Hat trimmed with Jewels and a Plume of Feathers; she is fat, fair and pleasing, she has fine Eyes, and her Looks are sweet and ingenious. The Room for acting Plays in, is well designed, very large, all well set out, with Carving and Guilding, there may be fifteen in a Box without inconvenience to each other, they have all Lettuce Windows, and the King's is richly guilt, there's neither Galleries nor Amphitheatre, every body sits upon Benches on the Floor. On the side of the Terrace is the Statue of Philip the II. upon a Horse of Brass, this Piece is of great Value, those that are curious please themselves in taking a draught of him. The Park is above a good League in compass, there are in it divers separate Lodges, very pretty, and which have good Accommodation of room, there's a Canal which is supplied with Water from Springs at a vast Charge, and another square Place in which the King has little Gundoloes' painted and gilt, thither he goes during the great Heats of the Summer, the Fountains, Trees and Meadows making that Place more cool and pleasant than any other, there's Grottos, Cataracts, Ponds, Shades, and in some parts even something of the wild Fields, which shows the simplicity of the Country, and is extreme delightful.  
The Casa del Campo is for rural Affairs, it is not great, but its Situation is fine, being upon the Bank of Mansanarez, the the Trees in't are high, and yield a Shade at all times. I speak of the Trees of this Country, because one finds very few of them, there's Water in divers parts of it, particularly one Pond which is surrounded with great Oaks. The Statue of Philip the iv is in the Garden, this Place is a little neglected here, I saw Lions, Bears, Tigers and other wild Beasts, which live very long in Spain, because the Climate is little different from that from which they come, many People go there to think, and the Ladies usually choose this Place to walk in, because 'tis less frequented than others. But to return to Mansanarez, this River does not run up to the City, at certain times, it is neither River, nor so much as a Brook, though at other times it is so big and rapid, that it carries before it all that stands in its way, all the Summer People walk in it, there's so little water in't at this season, that one can hardly wet ones foot, and yet in Winter, all on a sudden, it overflows the adjacent Country, this is caused by the melting of the great Quantities of Snow which covers the Hills, and so descends into the Mansanarez in violent Torrents of Water, Philip the II. caused a Bridge to be built over it, which they called the Segovie Bridge, it is a very lofty one, and every way as fine as the Pontneuf, over the River Seine at Paris, when Strangers see it, they fall a laughing, they think it ridiculous to have caused such a Bridge to be built, where there's no Water. Hereupon there was one said wittily enough, he would advise 'em to sell the Bridge, and buy some Water.  
The Florid is a most pleasant House, and its Gardens are infinitely delightful; there are in great numbers Italian Statues by the best Masters: The Water there makes a pretty sort of a murmur, which with the sweet smell of the Flowers, (of which they have a Collection of the rarest and best scent) is very charming. From thence we come to the Prado Nuevo, where there are several spouting Fountains, and Trees there are of an extraordinary height; this is a Walk, which though it be not even Ground, yet is not less agreeable; its descent is so easy, that one hardly perceives the unevenness of the Place.  
There is also the Carzuela, which affords nothing but Contrary delights, and some cool Rooms, where the King comes and rests himself after Hunting; but 'tis the Prospect which yields the Pleasure, and very fine things might be there made.  
That I may tell you of something else besides the King's Houses, you must know, dear Cousin, that on May-day, they resort to a Place without the gate of Toleda. This is called El Sotillo, and no body excuse themselves from going thither; to be sure than I went, but it was more to see then be seen, though my French-Dress made me very remarkable, and drew a great many Eyes upon me, The Women of great Quality never go abroad to take the Air in their whole Life, except it be in the first year of their Marriage, I mean into public Walks and Places; and then too, 'tis under the very noses of their Husbands, the Wife at the lower, and the Husband at the upper end of the Coach; the Curtains all open, and she finely adorned: but 'tis a ridiculous thing to see these two Creatures sit like Statues, looking at each other, and without speaking a word in an hours time. There are certain days set apart for walking and taking the Air, all Madrid go abroad then; the King is seldom there, but except the King and a few Courtiers, no body else fail of going. That which makes it very troublesome is, their long Traces, which take up a great compass of Ground, and occasion the Horses often to entangle. Several Ladies which are not of the highest Rank, resort thither, but with their Curtains close drawn; they only look through little Glasses which are fastened into the sides of the Coach: but at Night the Ladies of great Quality come Incognito; and when 'tis dark they please themselves so far as to walk a foot: They wear white Mantles upon their Heads; these are a kind of a Hood made of woollen stuff, which covers them all over; they Embroider them with black Silk: they are only the ordinary Women, and such as go upon some Intrigue, which wear them; yet sometimes, as I have said, certain Court-Ladies will go in this Dress. The Cavallero's also alight and walk, and say some odd thing or other to them, but they meet with their match.  
The Count de Berka, the Germane Enyoy, told me, that t'other Night as he was at Supper, and his Windows (because of the cold) being shut, somebody knocked at the Lattice of his Hall, he sent to see who it was; they found three Women in white Mantles, who desired to have the Windows opened that they might see him. He sent them word, that they would be more conveniently in the Hall: They came in all concealed, and placed themselves in a corner, and so stood all the while he was at Table. He entreated them (but in vain) to sit down and eat some Sweetmeats, but they would neither do one nor tother; but after they had said a great many merry things to him, in which they abundantly shown a strange quickness of Wit, they went away. He discovered that these were the Duchess' the Medina Celi, d' Ossona and Ducada, having seen them at their own Houses; for Ambasadors have the privilege sometimes to go to the great Ladies, and to give them a visit of Audience; but he was willing to have yet a greater certainty, and therefore caused them to be followed: and they were seen to go into one of their Houses by a false Door, at which some of their Women waited for them. These little Disguises are not always attended with overmuch Innocence.  
As to the Men, when Night comes, they walk a foot in the Prado; they make up to the Coaches in which they see Women, and leaning upon the Bouts, they either throw Flowers, or sprinkle sweet Water upon them; and when they are permitted, they go into the Coach to them.  
But as to the meeting on May-day, It is certainly a great pleasure to see the Citizens and the People how they sit; some upon the young Corn, some upon the sides of the Mansanarez, others playing at Ombre, and others either with their Wives, Children, Friends or Mistresses, basking themselves in the Sun; some are eating of a Salad with Leeks and Onions, and others, hard Eggs; and others Gammon of Bacon, and even Galinas de Loche, which are Sea-Hens, and very excellent. They all drink Water like Ducks, and play either upon the Guittar or Harp. The King came there with Don John, the Duke de Medina Celi, the Constable de Castille, and the Duke de Pastratie; I only saw his Coach of green Oil-cloth, drawn by six pied Horses, the finest in the World; and all covered over with Gold-spangles, and knots of Rosecoloured Ribbon: The Curtains of the Coach were of green Damask, with a fine gold Fringe, but so close drawn, that one could perceive nothing but through the little Glasses on the sides of the Coach. It is the Custom, when the King passes by, to stand still, and in respect, to draw the Curtains; but we, according to the French fashion, let ours be open, and were satisfied in making a very low Bow. The King took notice of a Spaniel-bitch I had in my Arms, and which the Marchioness d' Alvi, who is a very pretty Lady, desired me to carry to the Constable of Colonna's Lady; and as I loved it mightily, she sent it to me very often. The King sent the Count de los Arcos, Captain of the Spanish Guards, to ask me for it; he came up to the Coach side on Horseback. I immediately gave it to him, and the Creature had the Honour to be made much of by his Majesty, was mightily pleased with the little Bells about her Neck; and the Buckles upon her Ears. He had a Bitch which he loved extremely, and he sent to ask me if I would be willing that he should keep mine for Daraza, which was the Name of his.  
You may easily imagine, Dear Cousin, what answer I made. He returned me the Spaniel, but without either her Collar or Buckles, and he ordered the Count de Los Arcos to give me a gold Box full of pastils, which he had about him, and desired me to keep it. It is but of a small value, but coming from such a hand, I mightily esteem it.  
It was Don John, who is my Kinswomans' Friend, which obtained this mark of the King's bounty to me; for he knew of my being in Madrid, though I had not had the Honour yet to see him.  
Two days afterwards, as I was all alone in my apartment, busy in painting a small piece, I saw come in, a Man whom I knew not; but one, who by the air of his Face, I could easily judge to be of Quality: He told me, that not having met with my Kinswoman, he was resolved to tarry till she came, for he had Letters to give her. After some little Discourse, he gave occasion to talk of Don John, and told me that he doubted not, that I frequently saw him. I replied, that indeed, since my arrival, this Prince came often to visit my Kinswoman, but he never asked for me. The reason of that perhaps, adds he, was, because you were sick that day. I was not sick, replied I, and I should have been very glad both to have seen and heard him, for I have been told both good and ill of him, and I have a mind to know whether they do him right or wrong. I have signified my desire to my Kinswoman, but she told me, there was no way to gratify me, for he was so devout, that he would speak to no Woman. It is possible, says he, in smiling, that his Devotion should so much disturb his Mind? for my part, I am confident he asked for you, and was assured that you were ill of a Fever; Of a Fever! cried I, that's very strange! I beseech ye, how do you know it? But just then, my Kinswoman came in, she was extremely amazed to find Don John with me, and so was I, for I little thought it was he. He told her several times, that he knew not how to pardon her for the Idea she had given me of him, that he was no Bigot, and that he was persuaded, true Devotion did not make a Man rude and inhuman,  
I think him very handsome, of a noble Carriage, very well bread, and extreme witty, and of a mighty quickness of Mind. As my Kinswoman has a great share of Wit, so she cleared herself well enough from what he taxed her with. But when he was gone, she was ready to eat me for anger, because I denied having had a Fever. I desired her to excuse me, because me, because I was ignorant what she had said to him, and that I could not divine: She answered me, that at Court, one must either be able to divine, or else they would act a very silly part.  
She asked the Prince, if it was true, that the Queen-Mother had writ to the King, and begged that she might see him, and that he had refused her. He agreed it was, and also, that that was the only reason which hindered his Majesty from going to Aranjus, lest she should come to him there, contrary to the Prohibition for her not stirring out of Toleda. What, my Lord, said I, will not the King see the Queen his Mother? Say rather, replies he, that 'tis State-Policy which forbids Sovereigns to follow their Inclinations when they do not suit with the public good. We have a constant Maxim in the Council of State, always to consult the Spirit of Charles V in all difficult Matters; we inquire what he would have done upon such an occasion, and that we endeavour to practise in our turn. For my part, I am of Opinion with a great many others, that he ought not to see his Mother, since it was fit for him to banish her; and the King himself is so fully persuaded of this, that he answered her, it could not be. But it was not difficult for me to see, that Don John fitted the Genius of Charles V to his own.  
The King is gone to Buen Retiro, where I had the Honour to see him first, at a Play, for he opened the Lattice of his Box to look at us in ours, because we were dressed after the French way. The Danish Ambassador's Lady was dressed after the same fashion, and so handsome, that he told the Prince of Monteleon, he was mightily taken with us, only it was pity that our Heads were not trimmed, and our Bodies clad after the Spanish mode; that the more he looked at the French Ladies , the more they displeased him, that the men's did not so much offend him. The Opera of Alcinus was acted before him, but I gave little Attention to it, looking so earnestly at the King, that I might be able to describe him to you. I must tell you then, that his Complexion is delicate and fair, he has a broad Forehead, his Eyes are fine and have a great deal of sweetness in them; his Face is very long and narrow, his Lips like those of the House of Austria, are very thick, and his Mouth is wide, his Nose is very much hawked, his Chin is sharp and turns up, he has a great Head of Hair, and fair, lank and put behind his Ears, his Stature is pretty high, strait and slender, his Legs are small, and almost all of a thickness: He is naturally very kind and good, he is inclined to Clemency and of the great variety of Council he has given him, he takes that which is most for the advantage of his People, for he loves them extremely. He is not of a vindicative Spirit, he is sober, liberal and pious; his Inclinations are Virtuous, he is of an even temper, and of easy access: He hath not had all that Education which is requisite to form the Mind, but yet he does not want any neither. I will now note some of his merry Humours which have been told me, and though they are of no great importance, yet it may still be pleasant to know them.  
It is not long since the Lady Connestable de Collonna, who is in a Religious House at St. Domingo, got out of the Abbey, from whence she had made several Escapes; the Nuns tired with her proceeding, resolved to admit her no more; and indeed the last time she endeavoured to get in, they plainly told her, that she might either betake herself to the World, or chose some other place than their House for a Retirement. She was extremely offended at this refusal, which by no means suited with a Person of her Quality and Merit. She got some of her Friends to apply themselves to the King, and he sent Orders to the Abbess to receive her in again. The Abbess and all the Nuns were obstinate in their refusal, saying that they would themselves represent their Reasons to his Majesty, and in their Persons go to him. When this Answer of the Nuns was related to the King, he burst out a laughing, and said, It will be pretty sport to see this Procession of the Nuns, who will come along singing, Libera nos Domine de la Condestabile. But yet they did not go, and chose rather to obey, which is always safest.  
Some days ago it reigned and thundered most terribly; the King, who sometimes pleases himself in playing little Tricks with his Courtiers, commanded the Marquis d' Astorgas to wait for him upon the Terras walk in the Palace. The good old man said to him in smiling, Sir, will it be long before you come? Why do you ask, said the King? that your Majesty, replied he, may send a Coffin to put me in, for there's no likelihood that I should be able to contend with such Wether as this. Go, go Marquis, says the King, I'll come to you. The Marquis went out, and without any Scruple, stepped into his Coach and went directly home. Two hours afterwards, the King said, for certain the good old Man is wet to the Skin, let him be called in, I have a mind to see him in such a Condition. But they told the King that he did not expose himself at all, upon which he said, that he was not only old, but very wise.  
There was taken a little while since near the Palace disguised in man's Clothes, one of the handsomest Misses of Madrid, she had set upon her Gallant, of whom she believed she had cause to complain, he knowing her by her voice and the manner of handling her Sword, would not make use of his to defend himself, so far from it, that he opened his Waistcoat, and gave her free leave to thrust at him, thinking perhaps, that she either was not angry, or had not Courage enough to do it; but he deceived himself, for with all her strength she made a Pass at him, which made him drop down, she no sooner perceived his Blood, but she threw herself upon the ground, and cried out most dreadfully, tore her Skin off her Face, and pulled her Hair off her Head: the People which were got about her very well perceived by her Looks, and her long Hair, that she was a Woman, the Officers of Justice seized her, and some Lords passing by at that time, seeing her, related to the King what had happened: He had a mind to speak with her, she was brought before him; Art thou she, said he, to her, that has wounded a Man near the Palace, Yes, Sir, answered she, I was resolved to be revenged of an ungrateful Man; he promised I should have his Heart, and yet I am assured he gave it since to another. But why art thou so afflicted, replied he, since thou hast got thy Revenge? Ah Sir, continued she, in seeking my Revenge, I have punished myself, I am now upon the brink of Despair, I beseech your Majesty to command them to put me to death, for I have deserv d the severest Torment. The King took pity of her, and turning to those about him, Well, really, said he, I can hardly believe that there's in the World so miserable a State, as to love and not be beloved. Go, said he, thou hast more Love than Reason, But endeavour to be wiser for the future, and do not abuse that Liberty I restore to thee. And thus she withdrew without being carried to the Place where they keep miserable Wretches that have led ill Lives.  
All this that I have told you of the King has carried me from the Opera of Alcinous, the first time I saw it was, with so much wand'ring of Mind, that when I saw it again, it appeared quite new to me, there was never seen more sorry Machine's, they made the Gods come down on Horseback upon a Beam which reached from one end of the Theatre to the other; the Sun shined by the help of a dozen of oiled Paper Lanterns, in each of which there was a Lamp: when Alcinous practised her Enchantments, and invoked the Demons, they came conveniently out of Hell by Ladders: Le Gratiosa, that is to say, the Jack-pudding said a thousand Impertinences, the Singers had in different good voices, only they sang too much in the Throat. Heretofore there was a Liberty for several sorts of People to come into the great Room, but this Custom is changed, and now there's only suffered to come in, the Great Lords, and at the most, the Tutulados and the Knights of the Three Military Orders. This Room is certainly a very fair one, it is all painted and gilded; the Boxes, as I have already told you, are always Barred with Lattices like those we have at the Opera; but they reach from top to bottom, and look as if they were Chambers, that side where the King sits is magnificent. As for the rest, the finest Comedy in the World (I mean those that are acted in the City) very often receives its Fate from the weak Fancy of some ignorant Wretch or other. But there is one particularly, and a Shoemaker, which decides the matter, and who hath gained such an absolute Authority so to do, that when the Poets have made their Plays, they go to him and as 'twere, sue for his Approbation, they read to him their Plays, the Shoemaker with grave Looks thereupon, utters abundance of Nonsense, which nevertheless the poor Poet is forced to put up, after all, if he happens to be at the first Acting of it, every body has their Eye upon the Behaviour and Actions of this pitiful Fellow, the Young People of what Quality soever imitate him. If he Yawns, they yawn, if he laughs so do they. In a word, sometimes he grows angry or weary, and then takes a little whistle and falls a whistling, at the same time you shall hear a hundred whistels, which makes so shrill a noise that 'tis enough to confound the heads of the Spectators. By this time our poor Poet is quite ruined, All his Study and Pains having been at the Mercy of a Blockhead, according as he was in a good or bad humour.  
In this Playhouse, there is a certain part of it, which is called La Casuela, it is like the Amphitheatre, all the Women that are not over-vertuous sit there, and thither the great Lords go to talk with them, sometimes they make such a noise that they would outdo the Thunder, and they say things so very pleasant, that they would make one die with laughing: for their Wit is free from all restraint of Decency. Besides, they are informed of all things that happen in the Town; and if they had a merry Jest to break upon their Majesties, they had rather be half hanged then lose it.  
It may be said, that the Women Players are adored in this Court, there's hardly any that is not the Mistress of some great Person, and for whom several Duels have been fought, and a great many People killed. I do not know how charming their Discourse may be, but I am sure their Persons are the ugliest in the World, they are extravagantly expensive, and sooner must a whole Family perish with Hunger and Thirst, than one of those beggarly Players should want the least Superfluity.  
We are now in a Season that's troublesome enough, for 'tis the Custom here to put their Mules to Grass, and every body almost walks a foot. At this time you can see nothing but Grass brought from all parts, and the greatest Lord hardly keeps two Mules to draw him, for this reason they often go on Horseback.  
Those Horses which have been at the Bull-baitings and are good for these sort of Sports, are dear, and much in request. The King had a mind to divert himself, and ordered a Bull-Feast to be on the Twenty second of this Month, I was very glad of it, for though I had heard much talk of them, I never saw any yet; and the young Count De Conismark, who is a Swede, would Taurise, or Bait the Bull for a young Lady of my Acquaintance, so that I was the more eager to go to the Placa-Mayor, where my Kinswoman, as she was a Tutulada of Castille, had her Balcony set up with a Canopy, a Carpet and Cushion of State. To give you a particular Account of all that passes at these Feasts, I must tell you, that after the King has appointed one of them, there are some Cows, which they call Mandarines, led into the Forests and Mountains of Andalousia. It is known that the most furious Bulls are in these Places, and as they are trained up for this purpose, so they run into the Wood; the Bulls spy them out, and eagerly court them, those fly and these pursue them, and so are decoyed into certain Pallisadoes, set on purpose along the way, which is sometimes Thirty or Forty Leagues in Length, several Men are armed with Half-pikes and well mounted, hunt these Bulls and hinder them from coming back, but it is not seldom that they are forced to fight them within these Pales, and frequently they are killed or wounded.  
There are People placed all along the Road, which bring advice when the Bulls will arrive at Madrid, and there also they set Pallisadoes in the Street to prevent any mischief.  
The Mandarines, who are real traitors, go constantly before, and the poor Bulls quietly follow after, into the very place designed for baiting them, where there are great Stables built on purpose with Shutters contrived to keep them in, there are sometimes 30, 40, or 50, Together, this Stable has two Doors, the Mandarines go in at one, and escape at the other; and when the Bulls think to follow them still they are hindered by Trap, in which they are caught.  
After they have rested a few hours, they are one after another let out of the Stable into the great Place, where there are a great many young, lusty, strong Peasants, some of which take the Bull by the horns, and others by the tail, and because they mark him upon the Buttock with a hot iron, and slit his ears, they call them Heradores. This is not so easily done, for there are frequently divers Persons killed, and this is the beginning of the Show, which always mightily delights the People, whether it be upon the Account that Blood is shed, or else, that they love to see something extraordinary, and at first sight surprising, and which afterwards furnishes with matter for long Reflections; but though unlucky Accidents do happen at these Feasts, yet it does not appear that they take any Warning from them, for they are still forward to expose themselves at at every Baiting thats made.  
The Bulls are fed, and the best of them are picked out for the Baiting; they can even distinguish those that are either Sons or Brothers of those Bulls which made a great slaughter in former Feasts, they tie to their horns a long Ribbon, and by the colour of that every body knows them again, and recites the History of their Ancestors; that the Grandsire or great Grandsire of these Bulls bravely killed such and such a one, and they expect no less from those that then appear.  
When they have sufficiently rested, the Placa Mayor is covered with Sand, and round it are placed Bars as high as a Man, upon which are painted the Arms of the King and his Kingdoms. I fancy this Place to be larger than the Place Royal at Paris, it is longer than it is broad, and about it are Houses built upon Pillars and Arches, like Towers, five Stories high, and to each a row of Balconies, into which there are great Glass-doors. The King's stands more forward than the rest, is more spacious, and all gilt. It is in the middle of one of the sides, with a Canopy over it; over against it are the Ambassador's Balconies, who have place when the King goes to Chapel, that is the Nuncio, the Emperor's Ambassadors, that of France, of Poland, the Venetian, and that of Savoy; those of England, Holland, Swedland, Denmark and other Protestant Princes, have none there. The Councils of Castille, Arragon, the Inquisiton, Italy, Flanders, the Indies, the Orders, War, the Croisado, and of the Finances, are on the right hand of the King: they are distinguished by their Arms upon their Crimson Velvet Carpets which are all embroidered with Gold. After these, are placed the city Companies, the Judges, the Grandees and Titulodos, according to their several Degrees, and at the King's Charge, or else at the City's, who hire these Balconies of private Persons that dwell there.  
For all those I have now named the King makes a Collation; and it is given in very neat Baskets, to the Women as well as the Men, it consists of Fruits dried, Sweetmeats, and Water cooled with Ice, of Gloves, Ribbons, Fans, Pastiles, Silk-stockings, and Garters, insomuch that these Feasts always cost above a hundred thousand Crowns, and this Expense is defrayed out of the Fines and Forfeitures adjudged to the King, or to the City, this is a Fund which must not be meddled with, though 'twere to save the Kingdom from the greatest Danger, the doing of it might cause a Sedition. So bewitched are the People with this kind of Pleasure.  
From the Level of the Pavement to the first Balcony, there are Scaffolds made for the rest of the People, they give from Fifteen to twenty Pistols for a Balcony; and there is not any but what are let, and adorned with rich Carpets, and fine Canopies. The People are not seated under the King's Balcony, that Place is filled with his Guards, there's only Three Gates open into it, through which the Persons of Quality pass in their richest Coaches, and particularly the Ambassadors; and they make several turns round it, a little before the King comes. The Cavaliers salute the Ladies who stand in the Balconies, without being covered with their Mantles or Vails, they are decked out with all their Jewels, and whatever they have that is finest. One can see nothing but extreme rich Stuffs, with Tapestry, Cushions and Carpets, all of raised work in Gold. I never saw any thing more glorious, the King's Balcony is hung round with Green and Gold Curtains, which he draws when he will not be seen.  
The King came about four a clock, and immediately all the Coaches went out of the Place. Generally the Ambassador of France is the most taken notice of, because he and all his Train are dressed after the French mode; and he is the only Ambassador that has this Privilege here, for the others are in the Spanish Dress. There's five or six Coaches go before the King's, in which are the Officers, the Gentlemen and Pages of his Chamber. The Coach of Honour, in which there goes no body, marches immediately before his Majesty's own, whose Coachman and Postilion are always barehead, a Footman carrying their Hats; the Coach is surrounded with Foot-Guards. Those which they call the Lifeguard have Partisans, and march very near the Coach, and next the Boots go a great many of the King's Pages, clothed in Black, and without Swords, which is the only mark to know them from other Pages. As the Ladies that are designed to be about the young Queen, are already named, so they all came under the Conduct of the Duchess of Terra Nova, in the King's Coaches, they march by the men's Boots of the highest Quality, some on Foot that they might be nearer, others mounted on the finest Horses in the World, trained up for that purpose, and which they call Horses of Motion. That they may perform this piece of Gallantry, they must have leave from their Mistresses, otherwise 'tis a great Blemish to their Reputation, and even engages the Lady's Kindred in Trouble, for they take their Honour to be concerned in this Liberty: But when she approves of it, they may practise all the pleasant Humours, for which these sort of Feasts minister occasion. But though they need fear nothing from the Ladies they serve, nor their Relations, yet they are not freed from all uneasiness, for the Duegno's or Women of Honour, of which there's too great a Provision in each Coach, and the Guardadamas which go on Horseback, are troublesome Observers, hardly can one begin to discourse, but these old Hags will draw the Curtain, and the Guardadamas will tell you, that that Love which is fullest of Respect is the most discreet, so that very often one must be content to let the Eyes speak, and to sigh so loud, that one may be heard at a Distance.  
All things being thus disposed, the Captains of the Guards and the other Officers mounted upon very fine Horses, enter the Place, at the head of the Spanish, Germane, and Burgundian Guards, they are clothed in Yellow Velvet or Satin, which is the Livery of the King, trimmed with tufted crimson Galoon mixed with Gold and Silver. The Yeomen of the Guard, which I call the Lifeguard, wear only a short Cloak of the same Livery, over black . The Spaniards wear Breeches tucked up after the old way. The Germans, which are called Tudesques, wear them like the Swissers, they stand in Ranks near the King's Balcony, while the two Captains and the two Lieutenants, who carry each of them a Staff of command in their Hands, and are followed by a great many in Liveries, march all four in a Rank, at the head of the Guards, several times round the Place, to give the necessary Orders, and to salute the Ladies of their Acquaintance; their Horses curvet and bound continually, they are covered with knots of Ribbons, and embroidered Housing; they are called Pissadoyes for Distinction. Upon this day every one of these Lords affect to wear that colour which their Mistresses love most.  
When the People are come without the Bars, and are seated upon their Scaffolds, the Place is watered with forty or fifty Tuns of Water which is brought thither in little Carts. Then the Captains of the Guards come back, and take their Posts under the King's Balcony, where all the Guards are likewise placed, and make a sort of a Fence, standing very close together; and although the Bulls are sometimes ready to kill them, yet they must not go back nor stir from their place; they only present to them the Point of their Halberds, and so with a great deal of hazard defend themselves.  
I do assure you that this strange number of People, (for every place is full, even the tops of the Houses as well as the rest) the Balconies so richly set out, and so many beautiful Women in them, this great Court, the Guards, and in a word, the whole place makes one of the finest shows that ever I saw.  
As soon as the Guards are possessed of the quarter where the King is, six Alguazils, or City Doorkeepers, enter the place, each holding a white Rod: Their Horses are excellent, harnessed after the Morisco fashion, and covered with little Bells. Their Habit is black, they wear Plumes of Feathers, and put the best Looks on they can, in so much danger as they are in; for they are not allowed to stir out of the List: and 'tis their business to fetch the Knights that are to fight.  
I should tell you, before I proceed any further in this short Description, that there are certain Laws established for this sort of Baiting, which are called Duelo, that is, Duel, because one Knights assault the Bull, and fights him in single Combat. These are some of the things which are observed: One must be a Gentleman born, and known for such, that he may fight on Horseback. It is not allowed to draw the Sword upon the Bull, unless he has insulted over you; they call it insulting when the Bull breaks or forces the Garrochion or Lance out of the Hand, or if he make your Hat fall off, or your Cloak, or has wounded you or your Horse, or any of your Company. In this case, the Knight is obliged to push his Horse directly upon the Bull; for this is an Empenno, that is to say, an affront that engages one to be revenged, or to die; and he must give him una Cachilada, or a back stroke upon his Head or Neck. But if the Horse on which the Cavallero rides, refuses to go up to the Bull, then immediately he alights, and courageously marches up a foot to this fierce Animal. The Sword is very short, and about three fingers broad. The other Knights which are there to fight, are also obliged to alight off their Horses and accompany him, that is under the Empenno; but they do not second him, so as to assist him in the least against his Enemy. If they all march up in this manner towards the Bull, and he flies to the other end of the Place instead of tarrying for them, or meeting them, after they have pursued him some time, they have satisfied the Laws of Duelling.  
If there be in the Town any Horses that have been at a Baiting, and are dextrous at it, though they do not know the Owners, yet they'll borrow them; nay, though they do not desire to sell them, nor the others in a condition to buy them, yet they never refuse them. If by mischance the Horse is killed, and they offer to pay for him, it is not accepted; because, to receive Money upon such an occasion would not be agreeable to the Spanish Generosity. Nevertheless, it would vex a Man to have a Horse that he had taken pains to breed up, without any more ado taken from him by the first Stranger, and through his means killed. This sort of Combat is reckoned so dangerous, that Indulgencies are exposed in several Churches for those days, because of the great Massacre that is then made. Several Popes would have quite abolished such barbarous sights, but the Spaniards begged the Court of Rome so earnestly to let them continue, that their Humour has been complied with, and to this day they are tolerated.  
The first day I was there, the Alguazils came to the Gate, which is at the end of the List, to fetch the six Knights (of whom the Count de Connismark was one) which offered themselves to Combat. Their Horses are handsome to admiration and most richly harnessed: Besides those they ride on, they had each of them a dozen led by Grooms, with as many Mules loaded with Rejones or Garochons, which are, as I have said, Lances made of very dry Fir, about four or five foot long, painted and gilt, and the Ironwork very well polished; and the Mules were covered with Velvet  of the same colour of the Combatants, with their Arms embroidered in Gold: This is not practised at all Feasts, when the City order one, there's far less Magnificence; but as the King commanded this, and it was upon his Marriage, nothing was omitted.  
The Cavalleroes were dressed in black, embroidered either with Gold and Silver, Silk or Bugles; they had white Plumes of Feathers spotted with several colours, and a rich knot of Diamonds, with a Hatband of the same. They had Scarves, some white, and others crimson, blue and yellow, embroidered with Gold. Some wore them round their Waste, others over their Shoulders like a Belt, and others about their Arm; these last were narrow and short, without doubt their Mistresses presented them, for commonly they run to please them, and to show that there's no danger to which they would not expose themselves for their diversion. They had also a black Cloak which wrapped them about, but the ends being thrown behind them, it did not hinder their Arms: they wore little white Buskins, with long guilt Spurs, which have only one sharp point after the Moors fashion; they also sit a Horse like them, which is called Cavalgas a la gineta.  
The Cavalleroes were handsomely mounted, and looked gracefully enough for this Country; they were nobly born, and every one had forty Footmen, some clothed in gold Mohair trimmed with Lace; others in Carnation-coloured Brocado, stripped with Gold and Silver, and the rest in some other fashion. Every one of them was dressed like a Stranger, whether 'twas Turk, Hungarian, Moor, Indian, or wild People. Several of the Footmen carried a bundle of these Garochons I have mentioned, and this looked very well: Thus with all their Train they crossed the Plaza Mayor, conducted by the six Alguazils, and the Trumpets sounding. They came before the King's Balcony, and made a profound Reverence to him, and desired leave of him to fight the Bulls, which he granted them, and wished them Victory. Then the Trumpets every where began to sound again, and this is done, as 'twere, in defiance of the Bulls. All the People fall a shouting, and repeat Viva, viva los bravoes Cavalleros: After this they separate, and salute the Ladies of their Acquaintance. All the Footmen go out of the List, except two for each Knight, which are left to carry their Rejoves; they keep close to their Masters, and 'tis very seldom that they forsake them.  
Several young Men enter into the place, and they come a great way off to fight on these days: These I now speak of are a foot, and not being nobly born, they use no Ceremonies with them. Whilst one Cavallero is fight, the rest withdraw, but not out of the Bars; and they do not assault that Bull which another has undertaken to fight, unless he makes at them. The first to whom the Bull comes when they are altogether, is he that fights him. When he has wounded the Knight, they cry out, fileno es Empenno, that is to say, it is an Obligation upon such an one to revenge the Affront he has received from the Bull; and indeed Honour engages him, either on Horseback, or a foot, to attack the Bull, and give him a cut with his Sword, as I have said, either upon his Head or Throat, without striking him in any other part. Afterwards he may fight him as he will, and strike him where he can; but in doing this, ones Life is a thousand times in danger. When this blow is given, if the Knights are a foot, they may mount their Horses.  
When the King thought it was time to begin the Baiting, two Alguazils come under his Balcony, and he gives to Don John the Keys of the Stable where the Bulls are secured; for the King keeps the Key, and when it must be thrown, he delivers it into the hands of a Privado, or Chief Minister, as a Favour. Immediately the Trumpets sound, the Timbrels and the Drums, the Fifes and the Hautbois, the Flutes and Bagpipes make a noise round the Place one after another; and the Alguazils, who are naturally great Cowards, go trembling to open the Doors where the Bulls are kept. There was a Man hid behind the door, who shut it as fast as he could, and then by a Ladder climbed up to the top of the Stable; for 'tis usual with the Bull, in coming out, to look behind the door, and to begin his Expedition by killing, if he can, the Man that stands there: after that he falls a running with all his might after the Alguazils, who spur their Horses to save themselves, for they are not allowed to stand upon their defence, and their best play is to run away. Those Men which are on foot, throw at him Arrows and very sharp Darts, which are trimmed with Cutt-paper; these Darts stick in him in such a manner, that the pain causing him to stir much, makes the Iron enter deeper; besides, when he runs, the Paper makes a noise, and being on fire, vexes him extremely; his Breath looks like a thick mist about him, his Eyes and his Nostrils are like fire, he runs swifter than a Race-horse, and holds it much better; to speak truth, he strikes Terror. The Knight who is to fight him comes near him, takes a Rejon, holds it like a Poniard, the Bull makes up to him, he declines his blow, and thrusts his Gorachon at him; the Bull so thrusts it back, that the Wood being weak, it breaks, immediately his Footmen, who hold ten or twelve dozen, present him with another, which the Cavallero thrusts also into his Body; with this the Bull falls a bellowing, grows angry, runs, leaps, and woe be to them that stand in his way: And if at any time he is ready to run at a Man, a Cloak or a Hat is thrown at him, and this stops him; or else, one falls down on the Ground, and the Bull in running, passes over him. They have also great Figures made of Pastbords, with which they deceive him, and so gain time to escape. That which helps them further is, that the Bull constantly shuts his Eyes just before he bushes with his Horns, and they are so quick in that moment to avoid the blow; but yet this is not so certain, but that a great many perish.  
I saw a Black, with a short Poniard, go directly to the Bull, when he was in the height of his Fury, and between his Horns thrust it into the very seam of his Skull, which is a place very soft and easy to be pierced, but withal, very small to hit. This was one of the boldest and most dextrous blows that can be imagined. The Bull fell down dead upon the spot; and presently the Trumpets sounded, and several Spaniards ran with their Swords in their Hands, to cut in pieces the Beast that was no longer able to hurt them. When a Bull is killed, four Alguazils go out to fetch four Mules, which some Grooms, clothed in yellow, and Carnation-coloured Satin, lead in. They are covered with Feathers and little silver Bells; they have silken Traces, with which they tie the Bull, and so draw him away; upon which the Trumpets and People make a prodigious noise: There were twenty baited the first day. There came out a furious one which very dangerously wounded Count Conismark in his Leg, and yet the force of the blow did not light upon him, but upon his Horse, whom it burst; he quickly got off him, and though he is no Spaniard, yet he would not be excused from any of the Laws, It would have drawn pity from any body to see one of the finest Horses in the World in such a condition; he ran violently about the place, striking fire with his feet, and killed a Man with a blow upon his Head and Breast: The great Rail was opened for him, and he went out. As for the Count, as soon as he was wounded, a very fine Spanish Lady, who believed that he fought for her sake, stood forward in her Balcony, and with her Handkerchief made several signs, in all likelihood to encourage him, but he did not seem to need being animated; and although he had lost abundance of Blood, and was forced to lean upon one of his Footmen, who held him up, yet with great fierceness he advanced with his Sword in his Hand, made a shift to give a very great wound to the Bull on his Head; and then presently turning himself towards that side where this young Lady, for whom he fought, was, he kissed his Sword, and suffered himself to be carried away by his People half dead.  
But you must not think that these sort of accidents interrupt the Feasts, 'tis said, that it will not end but by the King's Order; so that when any Knight is wounded, the others accompany him to the Bars, and immediately they return to fight. There was a Biscanier so bold, as to throw himself off his Horse upon the back of the Bull, held him by his Horns, and in spite of all the endeavours of the Animal to throw him off, yet the Biscanier set upon him for above a quarter of an hour, and broke one of his Horns. If the Bulls defend themselves too long, and that the King would have others come out, (for fresh ones afford more delight, because every one has his particular manner of fight) they turn lose some English Dogs; these are not so big as is generally seen there, but 'tis a breed something like those the Spaniards carried into the Indies when they conquered them; they are small and low, but so strong, that when they once seize the Throat, you may sooner cut them in pieces than make them let go their hold. They are very frequently killed, the Bull takes them upon his Horns, and tosses them up in the Air like Footballs; sometimes they hamstring the Bull with certain Irons made , which they put at the end of a long Pole, and this they call Jaretar all toro.  
There was another Cavallero under the Empenno, because in fight, his Hat fell off; he did not alight, but drew his Sword, and pushing his Horse upon the Bull which expected him, gave him a wound in the Neck; but as it was a slight one, so it served only to enrage him the more: He tore up the Earth with his Feet, he roared, and he leapt about like a Stag. I cannot well describe to you this Combat, nor the Acclamations of every body, the clapping of hands, nor the multitude of Handkerchiefs which are thrown up in the air, for an Expression of Admiration, some crying out, Victor, Victor, and others Ha' Toro, Ha' Toro, the more to excite the Bull's fury. Neither can I tell you my particular disturbance, and how my Heart failed me every time I saw these terrible Creatures ready to kill those brave Cavallero's: these things are equally impossible to me.  
There was a Toledian, both young and handsome, which could not avoid being wounded by the horns of the Bull, who tossed him up very high, he immediately died; there were two others mortally wounded, and four Horses either killed or desperately hurt, and yet every body said, it had not been a fine Baiting, because there was so little Blood shed; and to have been such, there should have been at the least, ten Men killed upon the Spot. It is hard to describe the Dexterity of the Cavalleroes in fight, and that of the Horses in avoiding the Bull. They'll turn sometimes an hour about him, and though they be not a foot distant from him, yet he is not able to touch them, but when he does hit them, he wounds them cruelly. The King threw Fifteen Pistols to the Black that killed the Bull with his Poniard, and he gave as much to one that had subdued another, and said, he would remember the Knights that had fought.  
I observed a castilian, who knew not how to defend himself, jump upon a Bull, as nimble as a bird. These Feasts are fine, great and magnificent; 'tis a noble Sight, and costs abundance; One cannot give a just Description of it, it must be seen to be well understood. But I assure you that all this did not please me; Do but think if a Man that is very dear to you, should be so rash to go and expose himself against a furious Beast, and that for your sake, (for generally that's the Motive) you see him brought back weltering in his Blood, and half dead, is it possible I say, for you or any one, to approve of such Actions and these Customs? Nay suppose one had no particular concern, would one desire to be present at such Sports, that cost the Lives of so many Men? For my part, I wonder that in a Kingdom, where their King bears the name of Catholic, there should be such barbarous Diversions permitted. I am satisfied that 'tis very ancient, because they derive it from the Moors; but yet methinks this, as well as divers other Customs which they have from those Infidels, aught to be entirely abolished.  
Don Ferdinand observing me very much disturbed and uneasy during the Baiting, and taking notice, that I was sometimes as pale as death, I was so much frighted to see some of those killed which fought, said to me in smiling, what would you have done Madam, if you had seen what had happened some years ago? A Cavallero of worth, passionately loved a young Woman, who was only a Jeweller's Daughter, but a perfect Beauty, and was to have a great Estate. This Cavallero having understood, that the most furious Bulls of the Mountains were taken, and thinking it would be a very glorious Action to vanquish them, resolved to Taurize as they call it, and for that end desired leave of his Mistress. She was so surprised at the bare proposal only which he made, that she swooned away, and by all that Power which he had given her over himself, she charged him not to think of it, as he valued his Life. But in spite of this Charge he believed he could not give a more ample proof of his Love, and therefore privately, caused all things necessary to be got ready in order thereunto. But as industrious as he was to hid his design from his Mistress, she was informed of it, and used all means to dissuade him from it. In fine, the day of this Feast being come, he conjured her to be there, and told her, that her very presence would be sufficient to make him conquer, and to acquire a Glory, which would render him yet more worthy of her. Your Love, says she, is more ambitious than 'tis kind, and mine is more kind than 'tis ambitious. Go where you think Glory calls you, you have a mind I should be there, you will fight before me; well, I do assure you, that I will be there, but yet perhaps my presence will afford you more matter of Trouble than Emulation. However he left her, and went to the Placa Mayor where there was already a mighty Assembly; but scarce had he begun to defend himself against the fierce Bull which assaulted him, when a Country Youth threw a dart at this Terrible Creature, which pierced him so deep, that it put him to a great deal of pain. He immediately left the Cavalero that was fight him, and roaring ran directly after him that wounded him, this Youth thus frighted would have saved himself, when his Cap which covered his head fell off, and then the loveliest and the longest hair which could be seen appeared upon his shoulders, and this discovered it to be a Maid of about Fifteen or sixteen Years of Age. Fear had put her in such a Trembling, that she could neither run, nor any way avoid the Bull. He gave her a desperate push on the side, at the same instant her Lover knew that it was she, and was running to assist her. Good God what a grief it was for him to see his dear Mistress in this sad Condition! Passion transported him, he no longer valued his Life, and grew more furious than the Bull, and performed things almost incredible. He was mortally wounded in divers places. On this Day, certainly the People, thought the Baiting fine, they carried these two unfortunate Lovers to her unhappy Father's House, they both desired to be in the same Chamber, and though they had but a little time to live, yet begged the Favour they might be married, accordingly they were married, and since they could not live together, yet at least were they buried together, in one and the same Grave. The Story has mightily increased the Aversion I had already conceived against these sort of Feasts, and I told Don Ferdinand so, after I had thanked him for his pains in relating it to me.  
Hitherto I have said nothing to you concerning the Spanish Language, in which I am endeavouring to make some Progress. It pleases me extremely, it is expressive, noble, and grave, Love finds it commodious for its work, and can play the fool prettily enough in it. The Courtiers speak more concisely than others, they make use of such abstracted Comparisons and Metaphors, that unless one is used to hear them, half their meaning is lost. I have learned several Languages, or at least understand the first Rudiments of them, but yet in my mind, it is only our own which exceeds the Spanish.  
I come just now from seeing Ten Galleys which are arrived, this is somewhat strange in a City that is Eighty Leagues from the Sea, but these are Land- Galleys; for if there be Sea-horses and Dogs, why not Land one's? They are shaped like a Chariot, but four times longer, and have six Wheels, three on a side, and do not go much slower than a Chariot, the upper part is round, and is very like a Galley, they are covered with Canvas, and may contain forty Persons; there one sleeps and dresses victuals, indeed 'tis a Moving-house, they put eighteen or twenty Horses to draw it, the Machine is so long that it cannot be turned but in a field; they come usually from Gallicia and Mancha, the country of the brave Don Quixot, they set out eight, ten or twelve in a Company, to be helpful to one another in case of need; For when one overturns, it makes a great havoc, and the best that can happen, is a broken Arm or Leg, there must be above a hundred to raise it up again. In it there is carried all sorts of Provisions, for the Country through which they pass is so very barren, that on Mountains which are fourscore Leagues broad, the biggest tree one meets with is a little wild Time, there's in't neither Inn nor Innkeepers, you sleep in the Galley, and 'tis a miserable Country for Travellers.  
Monsieur Mollini the Pope's Nuncio, consecrated the Patriarch of the Indies on Trinity Sunday, and the King was there. I saw him come in, he had a Black Suit and a gold coloured Silk Belt on, and little Pearls were set round the flowers, his hat was so broad which they never cock here, that the Brims laid upon his shoulders, and looked ill. I observed, that during the Ceremony he eat of something which was held to him in a Paper, they told me it was either Leeks or Shallots, of which he eats very often. I was too far off, to see him well, he did not return to Buenretiro, because of Corpus Christi-day, at which Ceremony he would assist. In coming out of the Church, I knew a French Gentleman whose Name is Juncas, he is of Bordeaux, where I saw him, I asked him how long he had been here: he told me but a little while, and that his first Business had been to have seen me, had he not been engaged at Bayon, not to lose a minute's time, in the search of a very wicked Fellow, which was supposed to be hid at Madrid; That it was not the Curiosity to see the Patriarch of the Indies consecrated, which drew him to the Hieronimites, (otherwise the Daughters of the Conception) but that having desired to speak with one of the Nuns, he was told, that he could not see her till the King was gone. He added, that this was one of the handsomest Women in the World, and hath been the cause of a great unhappiness in the Family of Monsieur De Land. I remember to have seen her as I have gone by, and entreated him to tell me the matter. It is, says he, too long and melancholy a Mischance to relate presently; but if you will see the young Nun I speak of, I am persuaded she'll not be unpleasant to you. I willingly accepted his Offer, because I have so often been told, that they have so much more wit in Monasteries, than elsewhere in the world. We went into a Parlour, which had three such terrible Iron-doors with spikes, as made me wonder. How is this, said I? It has been told me, that the Nuns in this Country are very amorous, but I cannot be persuaded, that Love is bold enough to venture over these long Spikes, and through these little holes, where one must undoubtedly perish. You are deceived, Madam, cried Juncas, at the Appearances of things; if the Lady which is coming, can spare me so much time, I'll presently tell you, what I learned of a friend of mine a Spaniard, the first Journey I made hither. But at the very instant, Donna Isidora came into the Parlour. I found her much handsomer, than I had fancied her in my own Mind to be. Monsieur De Juncas told her, that I was a French Lady which had a great mind to be acquainted with her, upon his report of her Merits. She thanked me in a very modest manner, and afterwards told us, that it was very true, that the Wretch after whom Enquiry was made, had been lately at Madrid; but that she was certain he was not now there, and that he had even had the Impudence to write to her by the hands of a Man where he lodged; that the Letter was brought to her after his Departure, and that she would not receive it. It seems to me, said I, interrupting of her, that he could not be taken, supposing he were yet here. Sometimes, says Donna Isidora, Permission is obtained from the King. There are certain Crimes for which there is no Sanctuary, and that is one of them. She fell a weeping, notwithstanding all her endeavours to hinder her tears, and added, that thanks be to Heaven, she could not reproach herself with any thing in the late Business, but yet she could not forbear grieving extremely that she had been the cause of it. We talked together a good while longer, and I was as much charmed with her Wit as with her Beauty. Afterwards I withdrew. I am absolutely yours, most dear Cousin, be throughly persuaded of it  
From Madrid this 29 of May, 1679.   

LETTER XI.  
ONE must love you as mightily as I do Dear Cousin to resolve to write to you in a Season when the Wether is so excessive hot: Whatever has been told me, and whatever I could imagine of it, is nothing in comparison to what I now feel. To defend myself from the heat, I leave open all my Windows all night long, without fearing the  Winds which cripple a body. I sleep barehead, I put my Hands and Feet in Snow, enough to kill one; but I think 'tis much at one to die, as to be smothered with heat, as they are here. 'Tis Midnight before one feels the least breath of Air from the Western Briezes.  
In going to take the Air, one is sufficiently puzzled; for if the Glasses are open, one's choked with the Dust, of which the Streets are so full that one can hardly see, and although the Windows of the Houses are shut, the Dust finds a way through and spoils all Household Goods; so that what with the ugly smells in the Winter, and the dust in the Summer, all things of Silver, and every thing else is so tarnished and spoiled, that little can be kept handsome any considerable time: Notwithstanding all care at present, ones face will be covered with sweat and dust, like those Wrestlers which are represented to us in a Ring.  
I should now tell you that I have seen the Ceremony on Corpus Christi-day, which is very solemnly kept here: There's a general Procession of all the Parishes and Monasteries, which are very numerous; the Streets through which the Holy Sacrament is to pass, are hung with the richest Tapestry in the World; for I do not only speak of that which belongs to the Crown which is there, but also of that which belongs to a thousand particular Persons which have most admirable Tapestry. All the Balconies are then without their Lattices adorned with Carpets, rich Cushions, and Canopies: they hang Ticking cross the Streets to hinder the Sun from being troublesome, and they throw water upon it, to make the Air cooler: All the Streets are spread with Sand, well watered, and filled with so great a quantity of Flowers, that one can hardly tread upon any thing else. The Repositories are extraordinary large, and adorned with the greatest splendour.  
No Women go in the Procession: the King was there in a black Lutestring Taffeta Suit, a Sholder-belt of blue Silk edged with white; his Sleeves were of white Taffeta, embroidered with Silk and Bugles; they were very long and open before: he had little Sleeves hanging down to his Waste, his Cloak was wrapped about his Arm, and he had on his Collar of Gold and precious Stones, at which there hung a little sheep in Diamonds: He had also Diamond Buckles at his Shoes and Garters, and a great Hatband of the same, which shined like the Sun; he had likewise a knot which buttoned up his Hat, and at the bottom of that a Pearl which they call the Pereagrine, it is as big as the Russet Pear, and of the same shape; it is pretended to be the finest in Europe, and that both its colour and kind is in perfection. The whole Court without exception, followed the Holy Sacrament, the Councils walked after it without any Order or Precedency, as they happened to be, holding white Wax Candles in their hands; the King had one, and went foremost, next the Tabernacle where the Sacrament was. It is certainly one of the finest Ceremonies that can be seen. I observed that all the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber had a great gold Key by their sides, it opens the King's Chamber, into which they can go when they will; it is as big as a Cellardoor Key: I there saw several Knights of Malta, who wore every one a Cross of Malta, made of Holland, and embroidered upon their Cloaks; it was near two a Clock, and the Procession was not yet gone in; when it passed by the Palace, they fired several Rockets, and other Inventions.  
The King went to meet the Procession at St. Mary's, which is a Church near the Palace. Upon this day all the Ladies begin to wear their Summer Garments, they make their Balconies very fine, in which they have either several Baskets of Flowers, or Bottles filled with sweet Water, which they throw about whilst the Procession passes by; Commonly the three Companies which guard the King, are new clothed. As soon as the Holy Sacrament is gone back to the Church, every body goes home to eat, that they may be at the Autos, which are certain kinds of Tragedies, upon Religious Subjects, and are oddly enough contrived and managed: They are acted either in the Court or Street of each Precedent of a Council, to whom it is due. The King goes thither, and all the Persons of Quality receive Tickets over Night to go there; so that we were invited, and I was amazed to see them light up abundance of Flamboys, whilst the Sun beat full upon the Comedians Heads, and melted the Wax like Butter; they acted the most impertinent piece that ever I saw in my days. This is the Subject of it:  
The Knights of St. James are assembled, and our Lord comes and desires them to receive him into their Order; there are divers of them that are very willing to it, but the Seniors represent to the others, the wrong they should do themselves, if they should admit into their Society, a Person of ignoble Birth, that St. Joseph his Father was a poor Carpenter, and that the Holy Virgin wrought at her Needle: Our Lord with great impatience expects their Resolution, at last they determine with some unwillingness, to refuse him; but at the same time propose an expedient, which is, to institute on purpose for him, The Order de Christo, and with this every body is satisfied. This is the Order that is in Portugal, but yet these things are not done with a wicked design; no, they had rather die than in the least to fail of the respect due to Religion. These Autos' last for a Month; I am so weary of going to them, that I excuse myself as oft as I can: They use Sweetmeats and Water cooled in Ice very much, and they have need of them, for the heat almost kill's one, and the dust chokes a body: I was ravished with Joy to meet Don Augustin Pacheco, and his Wife (of whom I have formerly told you) at the Precedent d' Hazienda's House; they come thither, because they are related to the Precedent: We were placed near one another, and when the Ceremony was over, we went to take the Air in the Prado, after the French Mode, that is Men and Women together in the same Coach. Don Frederick de Cardona was one; our Curtains were close drawn whilst there was a great many folks, because of our beautiful and young Spanish Women; but as we tarried later than others, the Nuncio, and Frederick Cornaro the Venetian Ambassador, caused their Coaches to drive up to ours, and talked with us; when all on a sudden we saw a great Illumination all along the Walk, and at the same time appeared sixty Cardinals upon Mules, in their Habits and red Caps; after them followed the Pope, he was carried upon a certain Machine all covered with a foot Carpet; he sat under a Canopy in a great Chair, and St. Peter's Keys laid upon a Cushion, with a Vessel full of holy Water of Orange-flowers, with which he sprinkled every body. The show marched on gravely; and when they were come to the end of the Prado, the Cardinals began to play a thousand cunning tricks to make his Holiness merry; some threw their Hats upon the Trees, and standing directly under, they fell upon their Heads again; and others stood upright upon the Saddles on their Mules, and made 'em run as fast as they could. There was a vast number of People followed them; we asked the Pope's Nuncio what this meant, and he assured us he understood nothing of it; and that he did not like this sort of Mirth. He sent to inquire from whence the Holy College came in that manner; and we understood it was the Baker's Holiday, and that every year they used to make this fine show. The Nuncio had a great mind to have disturbed them with a Volley of Cudgels, and had already commanded his Attendants to begin the Fray; but we interceded in the behalf of these poor People, who had no other intention than to celebrate the Festival of their Saint. In the mean time, some that had overheard the Orders which were given, and were Disturbers of the public Peace, gave Information thereof to the Pope and Cardinals; this was enough to put all in confusion, every one escaped as well as he could, and their fear made our Pleasure short lived. In France such Mascarades would not be suffered, but perhaps there are many things innocent in one Country, which would not be so in another.  
My Kinswoman knowing how very civility I had been received by Don Augustin Pacheco, invited him to Supper at her House; I desired him to remember his promise of giving me a Relation of what he knew of the Indies, immediately I'll tell you, says he, concerning those they call the West-Indies, in which a part of America is comprised.  
In the Reign of Ferdinand King of Castille and Arrogon, Christopher Columbus a Genua, discovered this part of the World in the Year 1492. As the Spaniards were the first that found this fortunate Country, unknown to the Europeans, so King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel, had the Propriety of it by a Bull from Pope Alexander VI He established them and their Successors, perpetual Vicars of the Holy See, over this vast Country; so that the Kings of Spain are both Spiritual and Temporal Lords, and nominate Bishops and other ecclesiastics, and receive Tenths from them. Their power there, is of a larger extent than in Spain, for you must know that America alone is one of the four Parts of the World, and that we possess more Land there, than all other Nations together besides. The Council of the Indies which is established at Madrid, is one of the most considerable of the Kingdom, and there being so great a necessity of holding a very frequent Correspondence between Spain and the Indies, to send Orders to maintain the Court Authority, they were obliged to establish beside, a particular Chamber, which is composed of the eldest Counsellors of the Council of the Indies, and they are to take Cognizance of all things concerning the Revenues, and cause Expeditions by the Secretaries of the Council.  
Besides this Chamber at Madrid, there's another at Siville, called the House of Contrataction, it is composed of several Counsellors both of the Robe and the Sword, with other necessary Officers. Those of the Sword, take Cognizance of things which concern the Fleet and the galleons. The other Counsellors take Care of matters of Justice. Appeals from this Tribunal are made to the Council of the Indies at Madrid. There are Registers kept in the House of Contrataction at Sevile, in which are writ all the Merchandizes that are sent to the Indies, and all that come from thence, that so the King may not be cheated of his Customs; but this signifies little, the Merchants are so cunning, and those who keep the Accounts are so easily drawn to share with them, that the King is not a whit the better for them, and the Duty to him, which is only the fifth Part, is so ill paid, that he does not receive the fourth Part of what is due to him.  
It is the Council of Madrid which proposes Subjects to the King to fill up the vacant Vice-Royalties of New-Spain and Peru, they are granted for five Years, and so are all other Places, of which the most considerable, are these following, viz. The Governor and Captain General, and Precedent of the Royal Chancellary of St. Domingo in the Spanish Islands, the Governor and Captain General of the City of St. Christopher of the Havana, the Governor and Captain of War, of the City of St. James of Cuba, the Governor and Captain General of the City of St. John of Puerto Rigo, the Governor and Captain General of the City of St. Augustine, in the Province of Florida, the Governor of the City of Ascension of the Island of Marguretta, the Governor and Captain General of the City of Cumana, Capital of New-Andalousia, the Viceroy, Governor and Captain General of New Spain, A Precedent of the Royal Audience, who resides in the City of Mexico, the Governor and Captain General of the City of Merida, Capital of the Province of Yucatan, the Precedent and Governor of the Royal Audience and Chancellery, which resides in the City of Gaudalaxara, captital of the Kingdom of Galatia; the Governor and Captain General of the City of Guadiana, capital of the Kingdom of New Biscay; the Governor Captain General and Precedent of the Chancellery which resides in the City of Santiago, of the Province of Guatemela; the Goverour of the Province of Locnusco in the Straight of Guatemala; the Governor and Captain General of the City of Cornagua, of the Province of Honduras,; the Governor of the City of St. James of Lion, capital of the Province of Nicaragua; the Governor and Captain General of the City of Cartagena capital of the Province of Costa Riga; the Governor, Captain General and Precedent of the Royal Chancellery, which resides in the City of Manila, in the Phillipine Islands; the Governor and Lieutenants of the Forttesses De Ternate, and Governor and General of the Militia of the same Country; the Vice Roy, Governor, Captain General and Precedent of the Audit of the City of Lima, More, eight Counsellors, four Alcades, two Accusators, a Protector of the Indies, four Reporters, three Porters and a Chaplin in the same City. A Governor of Chucuito, one of Zico, one of Ica, one of Delos Collagos, one of Guamanga, one of Santigo de Misaflores de Zara, one of St. Marco, one of Arequipo, one of Truxillo; a Vice Roy of Castra; a Vice Roy of Michael y puerto de Blata; a Master of the Camp of the Straight of Puerto del Callao; the Precedent De la Plata hath under him six Counsellors, an Accusator, two Reporters and two Porters; the Governor of the Province of Tucumanan; the Governor of the Province of St Croix; the Governor and Captain General of the Province of De la Plata; the Governor of the Province of Paraguay; the Governor of the Citadel of the Imperial City De la Plata de Potosy; the Governor of St. Philip of Autrich, and of the Gold Mines; the Governor of the City of Paix; the chief Governor of the Mines of Potosy, the Governor, Captain General and Precedent of the City of St. Foy; the Governor and Captain General of the Province of Castenaga; has under him a Lieutenant, a Captain and a Marechal de Campe; the Governor and Lieutenant of the Castle St. Mathias; the Governor and Captain General of the Province of St. Martha; the Governor of the Citadel of St. Martha; the Governor of the Province Aentoja; the Governor of the Province of Popayan; the Governor De los Musos y Colinos; the Governor of the Province of Merida; the Governor of the City of Tunja; the Governor of the City of Tona Emalbague, and the People of the burning Land; the Governor of Quixos Zomoco Ecanela; the Governor of the City of Jane; the Governor of the City of Santigo de Quagaquil; the Governor of the City of Loja Zonnora, and of the Mines of Comura; the Precedent, Governor and Captain General of the City of Ponama; the Governor of Veragua, has under him a Captain General, a Lieutenant General, a Captain of the Companies of the Infantry, and a Captain of the Artillery, the Governor and Captain of the Castle of St. Philip's, in the City of Puerto velo; the chief Governor of Puerto velo, and the Governor and Captain General of the Province of St. Martha of the River of Hacha, and the Governor of the great Caxamarca.  
I do not hear mention the Places of Judicature, nor the Benefices, which are very numerous; But it must be observed, that all the Employments I have spoken of, are given either from three to three Years, or from five to five Years, that so one Man alone may not grow rich, whilst there are so many others that stand in need to partake of the King's Kindness.  
In those Places where there is no Vice Roy, he that is Precedent, is also Governor, and when a Vice Roy dies, the Precedent of the Vice Royalty for the time being, takes the Government upon him, till another Vice Roy is sent from Spain. It is his Catholic Majesty which gives those great Posts and the most considerable Governments. The Vice Roys fill up the lesser, and these Vice Roys make a shift very easily in five Years time to bring home two Millions of Crowns all charges paid, the Governors of the Principal Places, get in the same Compass of time about five or six hundred thousand Crowns; none goes thither, but what grows rich, and this is so certain, that even the Friars which are sent thither to preach the Faith, and convert the Indians, make such a profitable Mission, that they bring home every one of them, thirty or forty thousand Crowns. The King disposes of divers Pensions paid by the Villages of the Indies. And from these they draw from two to six thousand Crowns per Annum. And this is another way the King has to gratify his Subjects.  
The Philippine Island which lie near the Kingdom of China, depend upon the King of Spain, the Trade there is in Silk: these Places cost him more to keep, than they bring him in.  
The castilians had their Reasons why they would not let any sort of Manufactures be set up in the Indies, nor any Stuffs made there, nor any of those things else, which are indispensibly necessary. This Policy cause every thing to go from Europe, and make the Indians, who passionately love all the Commodities and Ornaments which come from thence freely to sacrifice their Silver to their Satisfaction: by this means, they are put out of a Capacity to grow rich, because they are forced at very dear rates to buy the least Trifle they want, and with which they amuse them.  
The Flota consists of divers Vessels laden with rich Merchandizes which are sent to the Indies, and there are other great Ships of War which are called Galleons, which the King sends to convoy them. These Men of War ought not to carry any Merchants Goods, but the Lucre of Gain tempts them against the express Prohibition of the King, and sometimes they are so full laden, that if they should happen to be attacked, they could not defend themselves. When these Vessels are ready to sail, the Dispatch which the Merchants obtain from the Council of the Indies at Madrid for leave to send them, cost for each of them, from three to six thousand Crowns, according to the bigness of the Vessel. It is easy to imagine, that since they give so much, they are sure of gaining a great deal more.  
The Galleons go no further than Porto Velo, whither they bring all the Silver of Peru, the Flota leaves them at this Place, and continue their Voyage to New Spain. The Galleons sail from Sanlucar to Cartagene in six Weeks or two Months at most, they tarry there a little while, and in five or six Days they come back to Portovelo; it is a Town situated on the Coast of America, the Air there is very unwholesome, and the Wether excessive hot. On the other side of the Isthmus some ten Leagues distance only, is the City of Panama, whether is brought from Peru a vast Quantity of Silver in Bars or Wedges, and divers Merchandizes which are conveyed by Land-carriage to Porto velo, where the Galleons are, and where there is kept one of the greatest Fairs in the World, for in less than forty or fifty Days there is sold of all sorts of European Goods to the value at least of twenty Millions of Crowns ready Money. After the Fair is done, the Galleons return to Cartagena, at which place there's a considerable Trade for Indian Goods, and those of the Kingdom of St. Foy, as well as for those, from Morigenta: After this, they go to the Havana to take in necessary Provisions for this Voyage, and from thence they are commonly two Months in Sailing to Cadiz; But as to the Flotta, it stops at Porto Rico to refresh, and arrives at Vera Crux in five Weeks, there they unload their Merchandizes, which is afterwards carried by Land fourscore Leagues beyond to the great City of Mexico, the Sale of them is quickly over, and the Flota parts afterwards to go to the Havana; but this must be passed only in the Month of April or September, because of the North Winds. The Galleons are commonly Nine Months in their Voyage to Peru, and the Flota is thirteen or fourteen Months, some particular Persons go thither also at their own Charge, after they have obtained Leave from the King and have Registered themselves at the Contrataction at Sevile, these go to the Coasts of St. Domingo, Honduras, Caracas, and Buenos Ayres.  
The Money which comes directly from the King from the Indies, must be brought in one Galleon, this Silver is delivered to one of the Masters of the Mint, who pays to the King every Voyage he makes, six thousand Crowns, and he keeps one per Cent. Of all the Silver that goes through his Hands, which arises high. As to the Silver which belongs to particular Persons, that is brought in what Vessels they will choose; and it is the Captain that is responsible for it.  
There's a certain Duty which is Called Avarie, and it is taken for all Goods Registered, and for all the Silver which is brought from the Indies. This Duty is so considerable, that it suffices to fit out the Galleons and the Flota for their Voyage, although the Charge amounts to nine Millions of Crowns; but that of the Flota is not so great.  
He that the King chooses to be General of the Galleons, advances to him, fourscore or a hundred thousand Crowns which is repaid him in the Indies with great Interest. Every other Captain does also advance Money to the King proportionable to the bigness of the Vessel they command. There goes moreover with the Galleons a Patacha, which leaves them in the Gulf Delas Yequas, she goes to the Isles of Margueritta to fish for Pearls, of which they pay to the King a fifth part, that is of all the Pearl they take, and afterwards she comes to Cartegena.  
Within these few Years, there is discovered Seventy Leagues from Lima, some Mines which yield a vast Revenue, those of Peru, and all the others in the West Indies pay the King the fifth part, as well of the Gold, as the Silver and Emeralds. There is at Potosi greater plenty of Mines than any where else, the Silver they get there is brought to Port D' Ariga, and from thence, it is sent to Callao. It is one of the Ports of Lima, whether the Galleons come to fetch it. The Kingdom of Peru yields every Year in Gold and Silver to the Value of eleven Millions of Crowns. From New Spain is brought five Millions of Crowns, besides Marchandizes, which are commonly, Emeralds, Gold, Silver, Cochenil, Tobacco, Wool of Vigogne, Campecha Wood and Hydes.  
It was a long while before they would suffer in New Spain any Workmen that wrought in Silk or Wool; there are some now, and this may do some hurt to the Trade of Stuffs which are sent from Europe, they are not allowed to plant there any Olive Trees or Vines, that so the Oil and Wine which is carried thither may sell the better. The King has the Power in the Indies as well as Spain, to sell the Bull of the Crusada, which is a Licence to eat Flesh every Saturday, and to enjoy the Benefit of Indulgences.  
The Indian Idolaters are not subject to the Inquisition in the Indies; that it is established only against Heretics and Jews. No Strangers are suffered to go to the Indies, but if at any time some happen to go, there must be a special Permission obtained which is very rarely granted.  
How is it possible for me, continued Don Augustine, to express to you the Beautifulness of the City of Mexico, the Churches, the Palaces, the Public Places, the Riches, the Profusion, the Magnificence and the Pleasures, a City that is so happily situated, that in all Seasons it enjoys a continual Spring, and where the Heats are not at all excessive, where they feel not the Severity of Winter. the Country is no less charming, the Flowers and the Fruits at all times equally loading the Trees. There you gather more than one Crop in a Year; the Lakes and Ponds are full of Fish, the Grounds are well stocked with , the Forests and Woods afford excellent Fowl and wild Beasts, the Earth seems to open her Bowels on purpose to give up the Gold she encloses, there are Mines or Rocks of precious Stones discovered, and Pearl are there taken. Oh! said I, let us all go dwell in that Country. This Description Charms, but as 'tis a long Voyage, it may be convenient, if you please, Madam, said I, to Donna Tereza in smiling, to get our Supper before we go; I immediately took her by the hand, and we came into a Parlour, where I had provided the best Musicians, which are bad enough, and which in my Opinion, have nothing to recommend them but their dearness. My Cook made us some Ragous' after the French way, which Donna Theresa found so excellent, that she desired I would let her have the Receipt how to do them. Don Augustin entreated me also, to let him have some of my Larding-Pins, of which really one may look all over Spain, and not find so much as one. We tarried very late together, for in this Season they set up till four or five a Clock in the Morning because of the heats, and that the best time is in the Night.  
There are certain days in the year, that every body goes out to take the Air upon the Bridges which cross the River Mansanarez; but at present all Coaches are laid up, the Gravel and some little Brooks help to make it very cool and pleasant. The Horses endure a great deal in these Walks, for nothing can be more prejudicial to their Feet than the Flints upon which they continually tread. In certain places of this River they make a stand, and there remain till two or three a Clock in the Morning; there is very often a thousand Coaches: Some particular People bring Victuals to eat there, and others sing and play upon several Instruments; all this is very pleasant in a fine Night: There are some Persons which wash or bathe themselves, but indeed 'tis after an ugly manner. The Danish Ambassador's Lady did it lately; her People go a little before her, and dig a great hole in the Gravel, which presently fills itself with Water, into which the Lady comes and thrusts herself; you may imagine how pleasant such a Bath is, and yet this is the only way that can be made use of in this River.  
You will not be sorry, perhaps, to know, that in making out ones Nobility here, it must be proved, that one is descended both by Father and Mother from Vijos Christianos, that is, from Ancient Christians. The blemish which they ought to fear is, their being allayed to any Jewish or Moorish Family.  
As the People of Biscay and Navarre were defended from the Invasion of the Barbarians by the height and Ruggedness of their Mountains, so they esteem themselves all Cavalleroes, even to the meanest Water-bearer; for in Spain, the Children sometimes take their Mother's Name, if she's of a better Family than the Father. It is certain, that there are few Families entire, and whose Name and Nobility has not been carried by an only Daughter and mixed with another Family: That of Velasco is not of this number, for they reckon up ten Connestables of Castilo successively from Father to Son. Here's one thing very singular, and that which is not allowed of in any other Country; and that is, That Foundlings, or Children found by chance are reckoned Noble, and bear the Title of Hidalgos, and enjoy all the Privileges annexed to the Nobility; but to this end, they must prove, that they were Foundlings, and were maintained and bred in the Hospital where such Children are kept.  
There are in Spain some great Families which hold almost all their Estates by the Title of Mayorargo; and when it happens that all of the Name are dead, and that the next akin is a Male, though he be a natural Son, yet he shall Inherit; and for want of such, the eldest Domestic shall take the Name and the Arms of his Master, and inherit his Estate: And this is one reason why the younger Brothers of other Houses, as Noble and Illustrious, do not scorn to be Servants to these, and their hopes are pretty well grounded; for it often happens that Families are extinct, because the Spanish Women have fewer Children than the Women of other Countries.  
There lately happened a very great misfortune to a young Woman of Quality called Donna Clora; she could not preserve her Heart against the Charms of Count de Castrillo, a Man of the Court, very witty and handsome; the Cavallero had the secret to please her without designing it; he was ignorant of the Inclinations she had for him, and so did not improve his Happiness. And although the Father of this amiable Creature was absent, yet she did not enjoy the more Liberty, because her Brother, whose Name was Don Henriques, to whose care her Father had recommended her, continually watched over her Actions and Behaviour; she durst not speak to him she loved, and this was a double Martyrdom, not to be able to make her Complaints, and to divide her Grief with him that caused it: But at last she resolved to write to him, and to find out some way that the Letter should come to his hands; but as this was a business of the highest consequence to her, so she was at a stand about the choice of a Confident; and here she stopped for some time, till at last she bethought herself of a Friend of hers, who had always testified abundance of kindness for her, and so without further consideration, she writ a very moving Letter to the Count de Castrillo, and was going to her Friend to entreat him to get it delivered to this Cavallero, when she saw him pass close by her Chair; this sight of him increased her desires to let him know her mind, and immediately taking this opportunity for herself, threw the Letter she had in her hand to him, at the same time feigning, that this was a Letter which he had given to her as he went by; Know my Lord, says he, aloud with an angry look, That it is not to me you ought to address yourself upon such a design as yours. Here, take the Letter, which I will not so much as open. The Count had too much Wit not to apprehend presently the favourable intention of this fair one. You need not complain, Madam, says he to her, that I have not made use of your Advice; he quickly withdrew to read a Letter which must needs give him abundance of Pleasure: by this means he was informed of Donna Clora's Intentions, and what he must do to see her. He omitted nothing, he became desparately in Love, and thought himself, as he had reason, one of the happiest Cavalleroes of Spain. They impatiently expected the return of her Father, that they might propose the Marriage to him, which in all likelihood must have been very acceptable to him.  
But notwithstanding all the Precautions that these young Lovers took both certainly to fix and continue a Conversation, which was the Joy of their Life; yet the suspicious and watchful Henriques discovered their Intrigue. He believed her Criminal, and in the excess of his Rage, without signifying or making the least show, he one Night went into the Chamber of the unfortunate Dona Clora, and as she was in a deep sleep, he strangled her in the most barbarous manner imaginable.  
Nevertheless, though it was known, that he was the Author of so wicked an Action, yet he was not prosecuted, for he had too much Credit and Interest; and besides, this poor Gentlewoman had no kindred but what was his, and they were unwilling to increase the Misfortunes of their Family, which were already but too great.  
After this wicked Fact, Henriques feigned a great fit of Devotion; he appeared no more in Public, and had Mass said at his House, and saw very few People; for he was very apprehensive that Count Castrillo (who had not dissembled his Grief, but had let it visibly appear) would at last be revenged for his Mistress, for indeed he most carefully sought all Opportunities. At length, after having attempted all imaginable ways, he found out one which succeeded.  
He disguised himself like an Aguador, that is, a Water-Bearer, these sort of People load an Ass with several great Pitchers, and so carry them about the City; they wear thick corpse Cloth, their Legs are naked, and their Shoes are either cut or slashed, or else they have Sols made fast with Strings. Our Lover thus disguised waited all day long leaning upon the side of a Spring-well, whose waters he increased by his Tears; for this Well was just against the House where he had so often seen his dear and fair Clara, and there it was also, where the inhuman Henriques dwelled. As the Count kept his Eyes continually upon this House, he perceived one of the Casements half open, and at the same time his Enemy to draw near it, he had a Looking-Glass in his Hand, in which he was looking himself. Immediately the cunning Aquator threw some Cherry-stones at him, in a jesting way, and some of them having hit his Face, Don Henriques affronted at the Insolence of a Man, which appeared to him to be only a poor Aguador, and transported with the first motions of his Anger, came down alone to chastise him: But he was hardly in the Street, when the Count discovered himself, and drawing his Sword, which for his purpose he kept hid, cried out, Traitor that thou art, think of defending thy Life. The surprise and the fright had so amazed Don Henriques, that he was only able to ask quarter; but he could not obtain it from this enraged Lover, who came to revenge the Death of his Mistress upon him that had so cruelly murdered her. This Count would have found it very hard to have escaped, upon his doing such an Action just at the door of a Man of note, and that had abundance of Servants; but in that very moment that all Don Henriques People were sallying out upon the Count, happily for him, the Duke Duzeda came by with three of his Friends, they immediately came out of their Coach, and rescued him so seasonably, that he made his Escape, and we do not yet hear where he is; I am concerned for him, because I know him, and that he is a very honest Man.  
It is very common in this Country, to assassinate one for several Causes, and Custom even authorises the Fact, for every angry Difference; for example, If one give an other a Box o'th' Ear, or strikes him on the Face with his Hat, his Handkerchief, or his Glove, or has wronged him, in calling him Drunkard, or let's drop any words that reflect on the Virtue of his Wife, these things I say must be no otherwise revenged than by Assassination; but they give this Reason, that after such Affronts, it would not be just for a Man to venture his Life in single Combat upon equal terms, where the Offended might perish by the hand of the Aggressor. They'll keep a Revenge twenty Years together if they cannot sooner meet with a fit Occasion to execute it: and if they happen to die before they have got Satisfaction, they leave their Children Inheritors of their Resentments as well as of their Estates, and the best way for a Man that hath given any Affront to another, is for ever to forsake his Country. I was lately told of a considerable Man, that after he had lived twenty Years in the Indies, to avoid an ill turn from another to whom he had given some Offence, and having understood that not only he but his Son was dead, believed himself secure. He returns to Madrid, after he had taken care to change his Name that he might not be known; but all this was not able to save him, for the Grandson of him that thought himself abused, though he was but twelve Years old, caused this Person to be murdered quickly after his return.  
The Men that committed these horrid Actions are commonly hired from Valentia; It is a City in Spain, whose People are wicked to excess; there's not any Crime which they will not deliberately commit for Money; they wear Stillettos, and Fire Arms which go off without any noise. There are two sorts of these Stillettos, one about the length of a short Poniard, but not thicker than a thick needle, and made of excellent Steel, square and sharp edged. This Instrument wounds mortally for entering very deep, and making no bigger an Orifice than an needle; no Blood comes out, nay hardly can one perceive the place where it entered, and so being impossible to dress it, they almost constantly die. The other sort is longer, and no thicker than the little finger, but so hard and strong that I have seen one of them at one blow struck throw a thick Walnut-Tree Table. These sort of Arms are forbidden to be carried in Spain, as Bayonnets are in France; neither is it lawful to carry those Pocket-Pistols which fire without noise; but yet notwithstanding the Prohibition, several Persons make use of them.  
I have been told, that a Person of Quality thinking he had a just cause to destroy one of his Enemies, went to a Bandolero of Valentia, and gave him a Sum of Money to murder him, but afterwards he was reconciled to his Enemy; and being willing to use a good Conscience, he made it his first business to acquaint the Bandolero with what had passed, that so he might have a care not to kill this Man. The Bandolero seeing his Service needless, offered to return the Money, but he that gave it, entreated him to keep it; Well, says he, I am a Man of Honour, I shall keep your Money, and I will kill your Man. The other earnestly begged him to do nothing, seeing they were now friends. Look you, says he to him, all that I can do, is to give you your choice, whether it shall be you or him, for to gain your Money honestly, there's a necessity I must kill one of you. And notwithstanding all the Entreaties of this Person, he persisted in his design, and executed it. It had been an easy matter to have seized him, but there was too much danger in't; for those Bandoleroes are so numerous and united, that if any one of them should be executed, the Death of him is certainly and quickly revenged. These Wretches are never without a List of their wicked Actions they have committed, and count it an honour to them; and when any one would set them on work, they show that, and ask, whether they desire them quickly dispatched, or to give them a languishing Wound. These are the most pernicious People in the Universe. Indeed if I should tell you all the Tragical Stories which I hear every day, you would grant that this Country is the very Theatre of the most horrid Scenes in the World. Love frequently furnishes the matter, either for its Satisfaction or Revenge. There is nothing that a Spaniard will not undertake, nor nothing that is above either his Courage or Compassion.  
'Tis said, that Jealousy is their prevailing Passion, yet they do not pretend it so much out of Love, as Resentment and Pride; for they cannot bear to see another preferred before them, and every thing which contributes to affront them, makes them desperate; let these things be how they will, one thing is certainly true, that it is a most furious and barbarous Nation in this Affair. The Women keep not company with Men; but yet they very well understand how to write and appoint Meetings when they have a mind; notwithstanding the danger is great both for themselves, the Lover and the Messenger; but in spite of all that, by their Wit and their Money, they make a shift to deceive the most cunning Argus.  
It is unaccountable that Men who put every thing in practice to satisfy their Revengeful Minds, and who are guilty of such abominable Actions, should even be scrupulously Religious, at the same time they are going to stab their Enemy. And that they may not fail in their Enterprise, they must forsooth, perform their nine days task of Devotion for the Souls in Purgatory, and recommend themselves to the Relics they carry about them, which they often kiss. I would not be thought to fix this Character upon the whole Nation; it may be affirmed that there's as good People as in any part of the World, and that they are endowed with a mighty Greatness of Mind. I'll give you some Instances of this last, which perhaps though you'll look upon as Follies, for every thing has two handles.  
The Connestable de Castille is for certain, one of the richest Lords of the Court in Lands; but as he has the same fault as others like himself, which is to be careless in looking after his Interest, so he is ill furnished with Money. The Pensions which the King allows him, as he is Doyen or Chief of the Council of State, Connestable of Castille, and Grand Falconer, are so considerable, as to supply all his wants, but he is so haughty, that he will not receive any thing upon that Account. He gives these Reasons, That when a Subject has Estate enough to live upon, he ought not to be chargeable to his Prince, but aught to serve him, and esteem himself happy; that to be paid for what he does is mercenary and slavish.  
The Duke d'Arcas, alias d'Avero, hath likewise another obstinate humour; he pretends that the King of Portugal has usurped the Crown from his Family, and therefore when he speaks of him, he never calls him any thing, but Duke the Bragance; in the mean while, this Man has forty thousand Crowns a year in Portugal, of which he does not enjoy a farthing, because he will not submit to kiss the King's hand, nor to do him homage.  
The King of Portugal hath sent him word, that he will dispense with his coming himself, provided he will send in his stead one of his Sons, either the eldest or the youngest, which he will, and that he will then let him receive his Rents; and moreover, will pay him all the Arrears, which amount to an immense Sum. The Duke d'Avero will not so much as hear it mentioned: He says, that seeing he has lost the Crown, it would be a shame for forty thousand Crowns a year, to submit to the Usurper; that the greater evil takes away the sense of the lesser; that the Glory the King would receive from his Homage, would exceed the profit he gets from his Revenue; and that he would have cause to reproach him, for having done an honour to him which was not his due.  
The last I reserve for you, is the Prince Destillano; he hath Places and Commissions to dispose of at the Contratraction in Sevile, to the value of fourscore thousand Livres a year. He had rather lose them, than so much as set his hand to the necessary dispatches, saying, It is not agreeble to the Generosity of such a Cavallero as he is, to trouble himself to sign his Name for so small a matter; for you must know, that these fourscore thousand Livers are not in one Article, it may be there is above thirty; and when his Secretary presents to him a dispatch or grant of a Place, worth four or five thousand Livres, he will refuse to sign it, and alleges his Quality, always saying, Esto es una Mineria, that is, it is but a Trifle. The King however is not so nice in the matter, for he fills up the Places for him, and receives the profit to himself.  
You'll say now, that the Spaniards are Fools with this their fantastic Grandeur; and perhaps you are in the right, but for my part, and I think I know 'em pretty well, I am not of that Opinion; yet nevertheless I'll own, that whatever difference can be found in comparing the Spaniards and the French, it must be to our advantage; but it does not seem fit for me to meddle in determining the matter, for my Interest is too much concerned to let me judge impartially; but yet I am persuaded, that there are very few rational Persons, who would not make the same Judgement.  
There are fewer Strangers that come to Madrid, than to any City in the World, and they have reason; for unless they have somebody to procure them Lodging in some private House, they'll run the hazard of being very ill lodged, and the Spaniards are not very ready to offer their Houses to any body, because of their Wives, of whom they are extreme jealous. I do not know, that in all this City, there's any more than two Inns, whereof at one of them, they eat after the French mode; and when these are full (which they are very quickly, being very little) one knows not what to do; add to this, That there's no conveniency for passing too and fro in the Town, Hackney, or hired Coaches are scarce enough, but one may have as many Chairs as one will; yet it is seldom that Men are carried in them, unless they be very old or infirm. But after all, why should Strangers come to Madrid? That which is finest and the most amiable, is always hid, I mean the Women, there's no conversing with them; those Women that may be seen, are such dangerous Creatures for a Man's Health, that it must be a great Curiosity indeed, that a Man can resolve to satisfy at so much risk; yet in spite of all this, the only Pleasure, and the sole Enjoyment of the Spaniards, is to contract some League; even Youths of Quality that are rich, begin at the Age of twelve or thirteen years to entertain a Concubine-Mistress, which they call Amancebade, for whom they neglect their Studies, and make away with whatever they can catch up in their Father's House, but 'tis not long before those Creatures give them cause to repent of their Folly.  
But that which is terrible is, That there are few Persons in this Country, either of one or t'other Sex, and even of those whose Quality distinguishes them, that are free from that cursed Disease; their Children either bring it into the World with them from their Mother's Womb, or suck it from the Nurse; a Virgin may justly be suspected to have it, and they are hardly persuaded to be cured of it, they are so certain of falling again into the same Condition. But doubtless this Disease is not so dangerous in Spain as in other Countries, for they still preserve their Hair very fine, and their Teeth very good: At Court, and amongst the Women of the highest Quality, they discourse of it as they do of a Fever, or the Megrim, and they all bear the Distemper patiently, without so much as troubling themselves one minute about it. As they know not but that the most virtuous Women, and the youngest Child may have it, so they never let blood in the Arm, but always in the Foot; they'll let a Child three Weeks old blood in the Foot, and this is so constant a Custom amongst them, that unless it be some very able Surgeon, they know not how to let blood in the Arm. I was indisposed, and was forced to make use of the French Ambassador's valet de Chambre, to let me blood in the Arm. By all that I have told you, it is easy to judge, that this is the Nuptial present which a Spaniard makes to his Wife, and that though they marry, they do not quit their Mistresses, be they never so dangerous. Every time these Mistresses are let blood, their Gallants are obliged to give them a complete new suit of Apparel; and yet you must observe they wear ten or twelve Petticoats at a time; so that this causes no ordinary Expense. The Marquis de Liche understanding that his Mistress was just let blood, and so could not tarry till the Tailor made her a suit which he intended for her, he sent her one that was just brought home for the Marchioness his Lady, who is extreme beautiful. It is a common saying with him, That to be the happiest Man, he would only wish a Mistress as handsome as his Wife.  
The great Lords which return very rich from their Governments (whether for the most part they go poor enough, and where they pillage and extort all they can, because they are but for five years' time) do not lay out their Money when they come home, in the purchase of Lands; they keep it in their Chests, and as long as it lasts, they live at a great rate, for they think it is below 'em to improve their Money. Following this Method, it would be very hard for the greatest Treasure not to be quickly exhausted; but the future disturbs them but little, for every one of them hopes either for some Vice-Royalty, or some other Post, which will effectually repair all their ill Husbandry, and restore them to a good Condition: And it must be owned that the King of Spain is capable both to satisfy the Ambition of his Subjects, and to reward their Services; and indeed, many of his Subjects fill up the Places of divers Sovereign Princes, which were the most eminent Men of their Age.  
The difference is very remarkable between those Sovereigns heretofore, and the Spaniards at present; it is less as to their Birth, than as to their Merit; for the Families of the great Lords are very Illustrious, there's many of them that are descended from the Kings of Castille, Navarre, Arragon and Portugal; but yet this does not hinder several of them (for I make an exception) from contradicting the virtue of their Ancestors; but then let's see, how these are educated: They do not study, neither have they any able Masters; as soon as they are designed for the Sword, no further care is taken to teach them either Latin or History; but one would think they should at least be taught what belongs to their Art, such as the Mathematics, to fence, and ride the Horse; but they do not so much as think of these Matters. Here are no Academies, nor Masters to teach such things; the young Men pass that time which they should employ for their Instruction, in a wretched Laziness, either in walking about, or courting some Lady; and yet in spite of all this, they are persuaded, that there are not any People in the World which deserve public Admiration more than they do. They believe Madrid to be the very Centre of all Glory and Happiness, of all Arts and Sciences, and of all Delights and Pleasures; in dying, they only wish their Children the enjoyment of Paradise, and afterwards that of Madrid; by this means you see they exalt this City above Paradise, with so much satisfaction do they live in't. And 'tis this which hinders them from visiting other Courts, and there acquiring that Politeness which they have not amongst themselves, and to which they are perfect Strangers. And 'tis this also which makes them so eager to return home to Madrid, let them be where they will, whether they be sent by the King, or let them be there in what Rank or Station they will; let them be never so much honoured, and heap up never so much Wealth, yet the love to their Country, and the Prepossession for that, hath such a power over them, as to make them renounce every thing; and they had rather choose to lead a mean poor Life, (so it be not observed) without any Train, Grandeur or Distinction, provided it be but at Madrid.  
It is very seldom, that a Father lets his Son travel abroad, but keeps him at home, and suffers him to take up what Customs he pleases; you may easily believe, that generally these are none of the best; for there's a certain Age, when Youth aims at nothing else, but to gratify their Appetite, and enjoy Pleasures. One entices and draws another, and that which ought to be severely reproved, is authorised by the Example of those, on whom they depend. Add to this, That they make them marry, as one may say, as soon as they are out of the Cradle. At the Age of sixteen or seventeen years they turn into the World a young Man with a Wife that is but a Child, and this at once makes him less capable to know his Duty, and puts him upon being more debauched, because he is his own Master under no control: by this means, he passes his Life in a Chimney-corner, like a Man in his decriped old Age; and because this gentle Sluggard is of an Illustrious Family, he must be chosen to govern a People that must suffer through his Ignorance; but that which is yet worse, is, That such a Man taking himself for some great and knowing Person, acts only by his own head, without consulting or advising with any body, and so does every thing awkwardly and absurdly. The Wife, it may be, is not better stored with Wit and Parts; her mighty greatness, with which she prides herself, is the only thing that can make her be regarded; and thus Persons of the highest Capacity, must be subject to two Animals, which are made their Superiors.  
But on the other hand, let us be just, and render to Cesar his due. It must be owned, that when Heaven hath been so kind to a Spaniard, as to give him a good Education, and let him travel and see the World, he makes a better improvement than any body. Nature has been kinder to them than they are to themselves; they are born with more Wit than others; they have a great quickness of Mind joined with great Solidity; they speak and deliver their words with ease, they have a great Memory; their Style is near and concise, and they are quick of Apprehension. It is easy to teach them whatever they have a mind to; they are perfect Masters in Politics, and when there's a Necessity for't, they are temperate and laborious. Without question, several great Qualities may be found amongst them, such as Generosity, Secrecy, Friendship, Bravery, and in a word, all those Endowments of Mind, which go to make up a perfect, good, and virtuous Man. And here methinks, I have a fair opportunity to conclude this Letter, and to beget in you an esteem of these People. I should not be sorry, if I could procure them this Happiness; for their Manners do not suit so ill with me, as with a great many others, who cry out against them, and condemn them, before they have either examined or known them. For my part, I must needs say, that there is here, both good and bad, as there is in all other parts of the World.  
From Madrid this 27th of June, 1679.   

LETTER XII.  
HEre's a general rejoicing, since the arrival of the Marquis de los Balbaces, who brought certain News that the most Christian King had granted Mademoisel to the King of Spain. He so impatiently expected these Tidings, that there was hardly an hour passed, that he did not ask if the Courier was not come; and as soon as he knew it, he immediately went to hear Te Deum at our Lady d' Atocha's Church. As the Ladies do not go thither, so they are to content to dress themselves very fine, and place themselves in their Windows. I chose this, and I thought I should have been both choked and blinded, it was so excessive dusty. I saw the King in his Coach of green Oyl-cloth; he had but a small attendance, for some twenty Halberdiers clothed in yellow with trust Breeches like the Pages, made up his Guard, marching before and behind him. The Courtier's Coaches indeed that accompanied him, were so numerous that they could hardly be told; the People every where crowding, even to the tops of the Houses, cried out Viva el Roy, Deos le Bendiga, and several added, Viva el Reina nuestra Seinnora. There was not the least House or Street without its spread Tables; every body had their Garlic, Leeks and Onions in their hands, insomuch that they perfumed the Air with them, and they were even debauched with drinking their Majesty's Health in Water: For dear Cousin, though I have already mentioned it to you, yet methinks I may repeat it here, That there never was People so temperate as these, especially in Wine; and they have so strange an abhorrence for those that are guilty of Intemperance, that by their Law, a Man that can be proved but once to have been drunk, is refused for being a Witness in any Court of Justice where he is offered, and after a sharp reproof is sent away. And if it happen, that one calls another Borachio, that is Drunkard, this Injury is sure to be revenged with Murder.  
That Night the King was at Antocha; we illuminated all our Houses with great Flamboys of white Wax which they call Hachas; they are longer than those that are used at Paris, to light the Coaches at night, but withal, they are a great deal dearer, not only because the Wax is brought at great Charges from other Parts of the World, but also because there is a prodigious quantity of it consumed in Spain. And when they make Illuminations, they are not contented to set up four or six Flamboys, but they must put two in every Balcony, and two at each Window up to the highest Story; there are some Houses which thus require four or five hundred. Every where there were Bonfires made, and we went to the Palace to see a Masquerade of a hundred and fifty Lords which they said was to be there. I cannot imagine why they call this Diversion by that Name, for they were not at all masked; commonly they choose the darkest Night. All the Courtiers are mounted upon their finest Horses, every Horse was covered with Silver Gauze and Housing embroidered with Gold and Pearl. The Cavalleroes were clothed in Black, with coloured Taby Sleeves, embroidered with Silk and Bugles; they wore little Hats buttoned up with Diamonds, and in them a Plume of Feathers, they had rich Scarves and many Jewels; but with all this, their Black Cloaks and their ugly Collars strangely disfigure them. They ride a Horseback like the Turks and Moors, that is, as they call it a Genita, their Stirrups are so short that their knees are even with, and rest upon the Tops of the Horses shoulders. I cannot yet reconcile my Eyes to this Fashion; they say, that thus they can better raise and put themselves forth against any that assaults them. But to return to the Masquerade, they all met together at an appointed Place, which usually is at one of the Gates of the City. The Streets through which they were to go, were all strewed with Sand, and on each side there was a kind of Chaffing dishes set upon Poles, which beside the white Wax Flamboys gave a great Light, there were also placed several very clear Lanterns in Windows, which made a very fine Show. Every Cavallero had a great many Footmen, which were clothed in Cloth of Gold and Silver; they went by their Master's sides with Flamboys. The Masters marched four in a rank very softly, each holding a Flamboy also; they went all over the City attended with Trumpets, Timbrels, Bagpipes and Flutes, and when they came to the Palace which was illuminated, and the Court covered with Sand, they took several Turns, and run and pushed against one another with a Design to throw each other down with these tricks. Prince Alexander de Parma, who is of a prodigious bigness fell down, and the fall of him made as great a noise as the shooting of a moderate high-hill, they had much ado to carry him off, for he was grievously bruised with his Fall; there were several of them with their great Spectacles on, but particularly the Marquis D' Astorgas, who does not only wear them for gravity sake, but for need, for he is old; but yet for all that, he is frolicsome, he will be Meyor Domo to the young Queen, and he is a Grandee of Spain.  
And now I speak of a Grandee of Spain, Don Fernand de Toledo, told me t'other day a thing pleasant enough. His Father in Law, who is the Marquis De Palacios, lives at a horrid profuse rate, for it seems he is one of those professed Gallants of the Ladies of the Palace, and to arrive to that, one must both have a great deal of Wit, and show abundance of Magnificence, I mean a certain peculiar sort of Wit that's neat and refined, he must have choice Phrases and Expressions, and some ways and modes not common, he must understand how to write both in Prose and Verse, and that too better than another. In a word, one must both talk and do in this Pallace-Gallantry after quite another rate than is used in the City. But to return to the Marquis De Palacios. There was a public Festival appointed by the King, this Marquis wanted Money to appear there, he is Lord of several Towns, it came into his head to go down post to them; assoon as he arrived, at the first, he caused Papers to be set up, That all those of that Town which desired to be made Grandees, should immediately come to him. There was not either Justice, Burgess or Tradesman, which was not presently filled with vehement Ambitious desires for the Grandeza his House was crowded with all sorts of People, he agreed with them every one severally in private, and got as much as he could of them, and afterwards he made them all be covered before him, and gave them Patents in Form just as the King does, when he makes any one a Grandee. His Invention succeeded two well in the first Town, not to practise it in the rest: He found amongst them the same Disposition to give him Money, that through his means they might be Grandees, with this trick, he got a considerable Sum, and away he comes, and makes a splendid Show at Court. But as a Man is never without Enemies, so there were some Persons that had a mind to make use of this pleasant Frolic to put him out of the King's Favour. His Majesty was told of it, and the Marquis justified himself well enough, in saying all those to whom he had granted permission to be covered before him, being born his Vassals, they owed more respect than to dare to take this liberty without his leave, and that therefore he had made them Grandees, as to himself. And after this the thing was only looked upon as a merry jest.  
This Marquis comes often to see us, and as he belonged to the late Court, so Yesterday he told me, that a famous ginger being one day with the late King in the Terrass-walk of the Palace, the King asked him the height of that Place, he gazed up into the Air, and named a certain Height. The King priately ordered them to raise the Pavement of the Terrace about three or four fingers, and in the Night it was done. The next Morning he caused the ginger to come to him, and being upon the Terrace with him, says he to him, I spoke last night of the height you told me of this Walk, but there was some that maintained that you were mistaken, Sir, says he, I dare say, I was not mistaken; But consider it well says the King, and afterwards we'll him ashamed, which boasts himself to be a more knowing Man than you. Immediately he began again to make his Observations, the King saw him change colour, and seem to be at a great loss; but at last he drew nigh the King, and said, what I told your Majesty Yesterday was true, but to day I find, that either the Terrace is raised, or the Heavens are sunk down a little lower. The King smiled, and told him the trick he had put upon him.  
That I may give you an Account of other matters, I must tell you, that the King has in his Family three Persons which by way of Eminency are called, the great Officers, the Mayor Domo Mayor, the Sumiller of the Body, and the Master of the Horse. These three Places are thus distinguished, the Mayor Domo commands in the Palace, the Business of the Sumiller of the Body, is in the King's Chamber, and the Master of the Horse, orders all things in every Place, except the Palace.  
After these come the Gentlemen of the King's Bedchamber, they wear at their Girdle for a mark of their Dignity, a golden Key. There are three sorts of these Keys; the first, giveth the Employment of the Gentleman of the Bedchamber; the second, the Entrance with the Employment; and the third is called, Clavae Capona, which only gives Entrance into the Antichamber. The Number of these Gentlemen is great, there are Forty of those for Service, which take it in turns every day, and for the most part they are Grandees of Spain. The Mayor Domo, that is to say, the Steward in Ordinary, have the same Access as the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber. The Persons of highest Quality fill up these Places, for the most part they are the second Sons of the Grandees, they wait in turns every Week, and when the High-Steward is absent, they are invested with his Power, these also introduce Foreign Ministers when they have Audience, there are eight of them, sometimes more, but seldom fewer.  
The King hath three Companies for his Guards, but they have not any thing that agrees with one another. The Marquis De Falces commands the Flemish or Burgundian Guard, it consists of a hundred Halberdiers, and although here, they call them the Yeomen of the Guard; yet they may be called the Life Guard; the Germane Guard consists of the same Number, Don Pedro D' Arragon is Captain of it, the Spanish Guard is also composed of a hundred Halberdiers, and are commanded by the Count De los Arcos. He is likewise Captain of another Company of a hundred Spaniards, called the Guards of the Lancilla, and this never appears, but at great Ceremonies, and at the Funerals of Kings. The Affairs of the State are managed by a Chief Minister which they call Privado, he hath under him a Secretary of State, whose Office is in the Palace. All Business that come to the King and the Minister, aught to pass directly through his hands, and as he dispatches also whatever the King orders, so he is called Secretario del despacho Universal.  
The Council of State, and divers other Councils examine all matters, and the King or the Chief Minister, afterwards determine them, there are a great many Counsellors: Here follow the Names of those which at present compose the Council of State, Viz. The Constable De Castille of the Family of the Valesaco's, is the Precedent, the Duke D' Albe, the Duke De Medicina Celi, Don Pedro D' Arragon, the Admiral of Castille, the Marquis D' Astorgas, the Prince De Stillano, the Duke D' Ossona, the Count De Chinchon, Don Vincent Gouzaga, Prince De Guastalla, Don Lewis Portocarrero Cardinal Archbishop of Toledo, the Marquis De Licheses, the Marquis De los Balbares Don Diego Sarmituto, Don Melchios' Navarra, the Marquis De Losveler, the Marquis De Mansera, and the Duke D' Alburquerque.  
Besides This Council, which is the principal, there is that of the Inquisition of War, of the Orders of Arragon, of the Indies, of Italy, of Hazienda, of the Croisado, and of Flanders, there is also the Chamber of Castille, of the Alcaids de Corta, of the Contaduria, D' Aposento, Delos Bosques Reales, De Milliones, and De Competancias. But do not think, dear Kinswoman, that the Salaries and Profits of those Places are small. For instance, The Counsellors of the Council of the Indies, make from eighteen to twenty thousand Crowns a Year of their Places. And here 'tis pertinent to tell you, that 'tis thought no Places are sold in this Country, at least it is not known; in in all appearace they are bestowed upon Merit or Birth, but yet underhand, there are such considerable Presents made, that to get a Vice Royalty, they'll give Five thousand Pistols, and sometimes more. That which would be called Buying in another Country, at Madrid is termed giving a Regalio, that is, making a Present, and one is equivalent to the other, with this difference, that a Place, or a Government which one buys, is yours as long as you live, and sometimes passes by Inheritance to your Children, either by natural Right, or the Concession of the Prince; but in Spain, they enjoy a Place which cost them very dear, only three or five Years at most. It is easy to believe that those who advance so much, are very certain to reimburse themselves both Principal and Interest. From this Practice the People are horribly oppressed, they have perpetually upon them, either a new Vice Roy, or Governor, which comes from draining himself of all the ready-Money which he could either make of his own and sometimes of his Friends, to bribe the Court. Thus he comes hungry, and he has but a short time to enrich himself, and so the poor People are on all hands pillaged, without so much as being able to have their Complaints heard. But it is yet quite another thing in the Indies, where Gold is so plentiful, and they are so far from the King and his Ministers. It is certain they bring from thence immense Sums, as I think, I have already intimated to you, even the Religious as they call them, who are sent to preach there, return not without forty and fifty thousand Crowns, which they have heaped up in four or five Years time; so notwithstanding their Vow of Poverty, they find out the secret of growing rich; and during their Life they are suffered to enjoy the Fruit of their Mission.  
The Monasteries here, have yet another piece of Craft, which commonly succeeds, when a Religieus' Person or Friar happens to be the only Son. If his Father is rich, they beg him to leave his Estate to the Convent, where his Son has taken the Habit, upon condition that he shall manage and enjoy it whilst he lives, but after his Death that the Monastery shall inherit it, and put up Prayers and say Masses for the Father and the Son. By this means there are professed Friars which have ten thousand Crowns a Year, at their disposal. This Affluence in a Country where Reason has put little power over the Affections, does not always make them more holy; and if there are any that use it well, there are abundance which abuse it.  
It is known, that every year there comes from the Indies, above five and thirty Millions of Crowns, but yet not a quarter part of this ever goes into the King of Spain's Coffers. These Treasures spread themselves over all Europe, the French, English, Dutch, and the Genoeses, draw away the best shares of it. Methinks, this does not suit with the refined Policy of the Spaniards, to waste their own Subjects in digging Gold out of the Mines, to let other Nations, with whom they are often at War, reap the Profit; but the natural Laziness which hinders them from working, and to have at home Manufactures of their of their own, obliges them to have recourse to those, who can furnish their Country with the Merchandizes they want.  
As Strangers dare not venture to go there, because it is upon no less penalty than hanging, so they contrive to send their effects in the Names of the Spanish Merchants, with whom they meet with all the Fidelity imaginable; and if the King would, he could not hinder Strangers from receiving what is properly theirs; for the Spaniards upon this occasion, had rather lose their Lives, than any wrong should come to another. There's one thing remarkable, and that is, when the Flota comes to an Anchor at Cadiz, there are Men who make public profession to assist in cheating the King of his Customs upon Silver and other Merchandizes. It is as much their Trade and Livelihood, as for a Banker to deal in Money. They call them Metadors; and as much Knaves as they are towards the King, yet one must do them the right to say, they are not so to the private men which agree with them for a certain reward securely to lodge their Silver in such a place of the City as they shall desire. And this practice is so certain and safe, that one never hears of any that have violated their Trust: It were easy to punish these men for the Frauds they are guilty of against the King, but there would be Inconveniencies to the prejudice of Trade, perhaps far greater, than the Punishments would bring Advantage; so that the Government and Magistrates take no notice of what passes. There might also be an easy remedy found out to hinder the King from losing all upon this occasion; and that is, to abate the Duties a little, which indeed are very high, and so what is given to these Metadors, and somewhat more, might be paid to the Cotrataction, for naturally the Merchants do not love cheating, and are continually afraid of paying at once, what they have been saving for half a score Voyages; but 'tis the humour of the Spaniards, To have all or nothing, and very often they have nothing. As to Madrid, it is impossible to find there any greater Robbers and Cheats than the Magistrates and Officers themselves; these are the Men, that with Impunity appropriate to themselves the King's Customs, and who cheat him after such a rate, that 'tis no wonder if he so often wants Money: but they are not satisfied with cheating their Sovereign, they must also abuse and pillage the People; and although the Laws of this Nation are not only very just, but equitable, yet no body seems to be sensible of them: Those very Persons into whose Hands they are put, and who are set on purpose to execute them, are the first that break and corrupt them.  
If you'll but give Money to an Alcalde, or to an Alguazil, you may have the most innocent Person in the World arrested or seized, and then thrown into some nasty dark hole of a Prison, and there perish with hunger, without any proceeding or coming to a Trial, and without any Order or Degree; and when the poor wretch is let out of Prison, he must not so much as think of doing himself right against this wicked Officer of Justice. This sort of People are generally much favoured every where, but here they are beyond all measure; and righteous Judges in this Country are more scarce than in any Country whatever.  
Thiefs, Murderers, Poisoners, and the greatest Criminals imaginable, remain safe and quiet at Madrid, provided they are not rich, for if they be, they are sure to be disturbed for the sake of that.  
They do not judge Criminal Matters above twice or thrice a year; it is with the greatest difficulty that they bring themselves to cause any Criminal to die, who is, say they, a man like them, their Countryman, and the King's Subject; they send most either to the Mines, or to the Galleys, and when any Wretch is condemned to be hanged, he is carried upon an Ass, with his Face to the Tail; he is clothed in black, and a Scaffold is erected for him, that he may make a Speech to the People, who are all upon their Knees, and in Tears, beating themselves upon their Breasts: After he has spent what time he will in his Harangue, he is dispatched with a great deal of Gravity; and as these Examples of Justice are very rare, so they make a mighty impression upon the Spectators.  
Notwithstanding the vast Riches, and the excessive haughtiness and Presumption of the great Lords, yet they obey the least Order of the King, with that exactness and Respect which cannot be sufficiently praised. Upon the first Command, they depart, they return, go to Prison, or into Banishment, without murmuring. It is not possible to find a more perfect Submission and Obedience, nor a more sincere Love, than that of the Spaniards for their King. This Name is Sacred with them, and to bring them to whatever one has a mind, it is sufficient to say, The King Wills it; 'tis under his Name, that the poor People of both the Castilles are so horribly oppressed with Taxes: the other Kingdoms or Provinces are not so loaded, but boast themselves for the most part, that they are a free People, and pay but what they have a mind to.  
I have already hinted to you, dear Cousin, that in every thing they exactly follow the Politics of Charles V without considering that the difference of times makes a mighty alteration in the Events of things, although they may seem to be alike, and in the same Circumstances; and that what without the imputation of rashness might have been undertaken 120 years ago under a flourishing Reign, would be impudent to practise now under a Reign that is far less so: but a vanity that is natural to them, hinders them from seeing, that Providence sometimes permits Empires, as well as particular Families, to have their Revolutions and Periods. The Spaniards believe themselves to be just the same People, and in the same Circumstances they ever were; but though I never knew their Ancestors, yet I dare say they deceive themselves.  
But not to make any farther Reflections, which perhaps are too serious and high for me, I will tell you, that here's a general rejoicing at Madrid for the arrival of the Flota from the Indies. As 'tis not their humour here to treasure up Wealth, so this prodigious quantity of Silver, which comes all at a lump, is spread over all the World. One would think that these immense Sums cost nothing, and that it is Money which chance sent them. Hereupon the great Lords summon their Creditors, and pay them with a profuseness, which yet without lying, has something in't that is both noble and very generous; for there are but few Countries where Liberality is so natural, as 'tis in this; and I must also add, that they are patiented even to admiration. They have been known to endure most long and toilsome Sieges, in which besides the Fatigues of War, they had nothing to support them but Bread made of rotten Corn, and stinking Water for their Drink; and yet there are no Men in the World more nice about good Water. I say, notwithstanding all this, and that they have been exposed to the Severities of the Wether, were half naked, and had hard Lodging, yet in spite of all these things, they have been found more brave and courageous, than when they enjoyed Plenty and Prosperity. It is true, that that Temperance which is so natural to them, is a mighty help to them to endure hunger when they are forced to it; they eat very little, and scarcely will they drink any Wine. The Custom they have of eating all alone, contributes something to make them so frugal; for indeed, neither their Wives, nor their Children, ever eat with them. The Master has his Table to himself, and the Mistress with her Children sit on the Floor upon a Carpet, after the Turkish and Moorish way. They seldom or never invite their Friends to feast together, so that they are not guilty of any excess. Upon this account, it is their saying, That they only eat to live, whereas there are People, which only live to eat. Nevertheless, there are some rational People, which find this affectation too great; and as they admit of little familiarity in Conversation, so they perpetually live at a distance, and as 'twere in Ceremony with one another, without enjoying that freedom which makes that true Union, and produces that desirable openness of Heart.  
This great Retirement gives them up to a thousand Illusions, which they call Philosophy; it makes them singular, dull, fantastic, melancholy and jealous; whereas if they governed themselves otherwise, there's nothing they would not be capable of, since they have a wonderful vigour of Mind, an excellent Memory, good Sense, a solid Judgement, and great Patience; than which, there needs no more to make a Man wise, to grow in Perfection, to be agreeable in Conversation, and to distinguish himself from the most polite Nation. But they are so far from being what naturally they might be, though at never so little pains, that they affect a certain Indolency which they call greatness of Mind; they neglect their most important business, and the advancement of their Fortunes. Provision for the future, gives them not the least disturbance; the only matter they are not indifferent in, is Jealousy; they improve that to the utmost, the bare suspicion is enough to make them stab their Wife or their Mistress. Their Passion of Love is always furious, and yet the Women please themselves in it; they say, they would not for all the mischief that may befall them, have them less sensible of their unfaithfulness; that their desperate Temper is a certain proof of a true Passion, and that they themselves are not more moderate when they are in Love. They leave nothing unattempted to be revenged of those they love, if they forsake them without cause; so that these sort of amorous Engagements have commonly a fatal end. For instance, not long since, a Woman of Quality, who had cause to complain of her Gallant, contrived to get him into a House where she commanded, and after she had sufficiently reproached him, against which he did but weakly defend himself, for he was guilty; she presented to him a Poniard, and a Cup of poisoned Chocolate, leaving him only the liberty which sort of Death he would choose: He did not waste one minute to move her pity, he very well saw, that in this Place she was the strongest, so that he tamely drank off the Chocolate without leaving a drop. After he had drunk it, says he to her, it had been better if you had put a little more Sugar in't, for the Poison made it very bitter; remember to do so the next time you prepare another. He was immediately seized with Convulsions; it was very violent Poison, and killed him in an hours time; and for all this Lady still loved him passionately, yet she had the barbarity not to stir from him till he was dead.  
The Venetian Ambassador, who is a very well accomplished Man, being lately at home, they brought him word, that a Lady covered with a Mantle desired to speak with him, and that she hide herself so close, they could not possibly see what she was; she had with her two Gentlemen Ushers, and a considerable Attendance. He invited her to his Chamber of Audience, and she desired he would cause every body to go out. When she was alone with him, she unveiled herself, and appeared to him extreme handsome. I am of an Illustrious Family, says she to him, my Name is Donna Blanca de Gusman; I have despised all the Laws of Decency, in Favour of that Passion I have for you; I came to declare it to you, my Lord, and to tell you, that I must needs remain here this Night. From such an impudent Speech, the Ambassador could not in the least doubt, that this was some Tilt that had borrowed a great Name, to draw him into some Snare: but yet with abundance of kindness, he told her, that till now he had never thought himself unhappy in the Service of the Republic, that he could wish he were not an Ambassador, that so he might embrace the Favour she offered him; but that being in such a Station, there was little likelihood that he could give Entertainment to a Person of her Eminent Quality, that this might bring him into great trouble, and therefore begged her that she would withdraw. Immediately she was like a Fury, and after she had reviled and reproached him, she drew out a Stiletto, and run upon him to have stabbed him. He easily prevented her, and having called one of his Gentlemen, bid him give five or six Pistols to this Woman. She so little deserved this Generosity, and it so appeased her, that she really told him, she was one of those Creatures he took her for, and that the reason why she had been so desperate, was, that the Gentlemen Ushers, who waited for her below, were her Gallants, and would have broke her bones if she had made no advantage of the Plot they had laid; and that besides, she was to pay for the Equipage she came in, which was hired purposely for this design, and that she had much rather have died, than to have endured all those Abuses. The Ambassador was so taken with her pleasant Confession, that he caused ten Pistols more to be given her; for, says he to her, since so many honest Folks must share with you, your part will be too small. She succeeded so well here, that she went directly to the French Ambassadors; but she was not so courteously received there: For upon the first Apprehension of her Design, she and her Attendance escaped very narrowly of being entertained with the Strappado. He gave her not a Sons, happy was she that got out as she came in, for he had an aversion for all these Creatures.  
This Morning we tarried a while in the Placa Mayor, for an Answer of a Message my Kinswoman had sent to a Gentleman that dwelled there. In this Place Fish is sold, and there was a Woman which had some little bits of Salmon to sell, which she said was fresh; she made a horrid noise in crying it, and in calling Customers to buy it, at last comes a Shoemaker, which I knew for such, because she called him Signior Capatcro; he ask her for a Pound of her Salmon (and by the way, you must observe, that every thing here is bought by the pound, even Wood and Charcoal) says she to him, You do not inquire after the price, because you think 'tis cheap, but do not deceive yourself, I assure you, I must have a Crown for every pound. The Shoemaker vexed that she questioned his thoughts and ability, with an angry tone said to her, had it been very cheap, I would have had but one pound, but since 'tis dear, I'll have three, and immediately he gives her three Crowns, and then thrusting down his little Hat (for you must know that the Tradesmen wear them as narrow as the People of Quality wear them broad, and turning up his Mustachios by way of Rodamentade, he raised the point of his formidable Sword almost to the top of his shoulder, and haughtily looked at us, having well observed that we took notice of him and overheard his Discourse and were Strangers; but the pleasantness of the thing lies here, perhaps these three Crowns was all that ever this vainglorious Fool had in the World, that this was his whole Weeks profit, and that to morrow, himself, his Wife and poor Children, would have a more severe Fast, than with Bread and Water; but such is the vain humour of these People here; nay there are some of them which will take the legs of a Capon, and will let them hang down under their Cloaks, that they may look as if they really had a Capon, whilst they have nothing but the Legs and Feet.  
You cannot see a Joiner, a Saddler, or other sort of Shopkeeper, without his Velvet and Satin Suit like the Kings, with his long Rapier and Dagger, and his Guattar hung up in his Shop. They work as little as ever they can, for I have more than once told you, that they are naturally lazy. Indeed nothing but overruling Necessity drives them to do any thing at all, and then they work upon Sundays and other Festivals, without any scruple, as well as upon any other Day; and afterwards they carry their Goods abroad. If 'tis a Shoemaker and he has two Prentices, he takes them both with him, and each of them carry a Shoe, nay if he has three, they must all go along with him, and 'tis with much ado, that he'll stoop to try the Shoes he made; when he has done, he goes and sits him down in the Sun (which is called the Spaniard's Fire) with a Company of such idle Fellows as himself, and there with a sovereign Authority they determine matters of State, and settle the Interest of Princes; very often they fall out about them, some one of them that takes himself to be a more able Politician than the rest, will have them yield to his Judgement, but another as conceited as himself will not submit, and so they fall together by the Ears without Mercy. I was two days ago to see the Danish Embassador's Lady, and there was brought in thither a poor Wretch which was just then wounded in the Street; he was a Costermonger, and it seems had maintained that the Grand Senior would not be reckoned a cunning Politician if he did not cause his Brother to be strangled; another to whom that young Prince was not so displeasing, stood up in his defence, and thereupon these two fell a fight; but after all, to give them their due, all these People talk of Government and Politics with a great deal of Judgement, and give good Reasons for what they say.  
Here is in this City several Houses which are a sort of Academies, where People meets some to Play, and others for Conversation. They play there with great honesty, and let them lose what Sum they will upon Honour, they never fail to pay it in twenty four hours. If there should be any failure, their Honour and Reputation is for ever lost. No Reason whatsoever will be admitted against the necessity of paying in that time. They play there very high and very fairly, without noise or showing the least vexation or concern: If they win, it is the Custom to give the Barato; this I think is also used in Italy, that is to say, you give Money to those that are present, to some more to others less, and this whether you know them or no. He to whom you present the Barato must never refuse it, let him be a hundred times richer and better Quality than the Donour, nay one may demand it of a Gamester that is winning, and he'll not deny to give it. There are People that have no other Subsistance than this; but yet this is no good Custom, for though a Man does win, yet sometimes he hardly carries any thing of his gains away with him, and if he gins to play again, he often loses his own.  
Further, if a Man is found to have cheated, he has as good betimes to forsake all Company; for no honest Person will have any thing to do with him, and if he is taken in the fact, he may think himself happy if he comes off with some Cuchillades, that is, some Cuts, but not Thrusts with a Sword.  
As to the Conversation in these Academies, there's of it that is very ingenious, and very knowing Persons that frequent them; for in a word, they are here just as in other Places, and there are some that writ very fine things. What they call Novels seem to me to be of a Style, and to have an Air that charms; they never advance any thing but what's probable, and the Subjects they take is so well managed, and their Narration so concise and plain, neither mean nor lofty, that one must needs grant they have a Genius, which surpasses all others, in these sort of pieces. I will endeavour to get some of this kind, and will translate and send them to you, that so you may judge of them yourself. As I have not capacity enough to speak of things which treat of more sublime matters, so shall I say nothing of them till I have been informed by those that are competent Judges, and then I shall only pretend to be their Echo. But after all I must needs say, that I think them extravagant in their Eulogies, and that in them they keep not near to probability, their Imagination, which is very lively and active, sometimes runs too fast. I was t'other day reading in a Book, where speaking of Philip the VI the Author said, that his Virtues and great Qualities were so many, that there was not Paper enough in the World to write them down; that a common Pen was not worthy to describe such divine things, and therefore they deserved to be writ by the Rays of the Sun upon the surface of the Heavens. You'll grant me that this is really losing a Man's self in the Clouds, and that with endeavouring to exalt his Hero, our poor Author falls and breaks his own neck. Their Books are very ill printed, rheir Paper is not white, and they are very ill bound, being covered with Parchment or Sheepskin Leather.  
I must not forget to tell you one thing, and 'tis very material, and that is the Policy of the Spaniards, which persuades them rather to be at the charge of a hundred false Informations, than to neglect the Opportunity of receiving one true Advice: neither the distance of the Country from whence they come, nor their Agents, are suspected by them, they will know every thing and liberally recompense those that serve them, nay they'll hardly tarry till the Service is accepted, before they will reward them. You cannot believe how much advantage this Maxim has gained them, they have been sometimes taken for Fools, but that has not discouraged them, and in the end they always had what they intended. It is likewise true, that though they have but very slender ground to beg a favour of the King, yet provided they are not disheartened with Repulses, but pursue their first Design with Perseverance, sooner or later they obtain what they wished for. The Ministers of State think 'tis not suitable to the Grandeur of so mighty a Monarch to refuse a small matter; and though there's but little Justice in pretending to a favour which one has not deserved by some Service, yet if it is sued for without intermission, it is always obtained. I see Examples of it every day.  
I have not yet told you, dear Cousin, that upon my Arrival here, all the Ladies did me the Honour to visit me first. It is the Custom here to prevent Strangers, when once they know they are of Quality and their good Conduct, concerning both which they are very nice. When I returned them their Visit, every one made me a Present; sometimes in one House I received a Dozen, for even the Children of four Years old will treat you. I was presented with great Baskets of gilt Silver, adorned with Coral curiously wrought in Flowers; these are made at Naples and Milan: I had also Amber Boxes set with Gold, ennammelled and full of Pastils; divers presented me with Gloves and with Silk-Stockings and Garters in abundance; but these Gloves are singular, in that they are as short as the men's, for the Women wear their Sleeves down to their Wrists, the Fingers are so long that they look as if they were nothing else, and are ridiculous: The Stockings are made of Polo, that is raw Silk; they are made so short and so little in the Foot, that I have seen several Babies that they would not fit; the Garters are of a broad Ribbond, made very light and thin, like those our Peasants give at their Weddings; they are trimmed at each end with some English Thread Lace. They presented me also with several Cups of that Mineral Earth, and a thousand other things of this kind. If ever I go from hence, and make another Journey hither, it will be my turn to present: But alas! any thing pleases them, Needles, Pins, a little Ribbond, but above all, any thing made of their false Stones ravishes them with Joy; they that have so many that are right and so excellent, yet wear a prodigious quantity of these false ones, which in reality are nothing neither, but bits of Glass set, and just like those our Chimney-sweepers sell to our Provincials, who never saw more than their Curate and their Flock. The Ladies of the greatest Quality are loaded with these false Stones, which they buy at dear rates; and when I asked them why they were so fond of these counterfeit Diamonds, they told me it was because they could have of them as big as they desired. And indeed they have of them in their Pendants, as big as an Egg, and all these come to them either from France or Italy; for as I have told you, few things are made at Madrid, Idleness reigns too much there.  
There's no good Painters in this City, the greatest part of those that draw, are not of this Country; they are either Flemings, Italians or French, which come and settle here; but yet they do not grow rich, for Money does not come and move in the circle of Trade. For my part, I must needs say, I never saw less stirring. My Kinswoman receives pretty considerable Sums all in Quartos; it is Copper Money, and as nasty as our Doubles; but as bad as 'tis, yet it com●●●ut of the Royal Treasure; it is delivered by Weight (for how is't possible to count such sorry stuff?) and Men bring it upon their backs in great matted Baskets; when these sort of Payments come, the whole House is employed for eight days together in taking an Account of these Quartos, in three or four thousand Crowns, there's not a hundred Pistols, either in Gold or Silver.  
They have here great numbers of Slaves, which are bought and sold at great rates, these are Moors and Turks; there are some of them worth four or five hundred Crowns; heretofore they had power of Life and Death over them, a Patron might have killed his Slave as he might have killed a Dog; but it was thought that these Barbarities did not agree with the Maxims of the Christian Religion, and now that Practice is forbid; but yet they beat them till they cripple them, without ever being called to account for't. It's true, there are but few Masters that are thus severe; and if a Man happen to love his female Slave, and she grants his desires, she becomes immediately free. As to the other Domestics, it would be somewhat dangerous to use them ill; they pretend for the most part, to be of as good Families as the Masters they serve; and if they should be abused, they would be in a capacity to revenge themselves, either by Treacherously Murdering, or Poisoning of them; there are many Examples of this, they say, that a Man ought not to insult over them, because they are poor, that though they are reduced to serve, yet they have not renounced their Honour; and that they should forfeit it, if they should take blows from any body whatever.  
The Beggars are even proud, and when they ask an Alms, it is in an imperious and domineering way; if one refuses them, it must be done civilly, in saying to them, Cavallero, Perdone, usted, no tenga moneda; that is, Pardon me Cavallero, I have no Money. If you give them a rough Denial, they'll begin to argue with you, and undertake to prove to you, that that you do not deserve that Estate God has blest you with, and will never let you alone; but if one speaks courteously to them, they seem well enough content and desist.  
The Spaniards are naturally gentle and kind; they marry their Slaves, and if it be with another Slave, the Children they have are not free, but like their Fathers, are subject to the Patron; but if these Children marry, their Issue shall not be Slaves. And so it is, if a Woman Slave marry a Freeman, their Children follow the Condition of the Father. One is mighty well served by these unhappy Wretches; they are far more diligent, laborious and humble than other Servants; there are few of them that will change their Religion. I have one that is not above nine years old; she is as black as Jet, and would be reckoned in her own Country a wonderful Beauty, for her Nose is quite flat, her Lips prodigiously thick, her Eyes of a white and red colour, and her Teeth admirable, in Europe as well as in Africa. She understands not a word of any other Language than her own; her Name is Said, we have got her baptised; this young Christian has been so used to throw off her white Mantle, and to be quite naked when she was exposed to sale, that I have had much ado to hinder her from doing so now; and t'other day, when we had a great deal of Company, I sent for her; and truly Mrs. Said was pleased to appear before them all with her little black Body as naked as she was born. I am resolved to have her whipped, to make her know that this sort of fashion does not please me, for there is no other way to make her understand. Those that sold her to me, told me she was a Girl of Quality, and the poor Child will come often and fall down on her Knees before me, hold her hands together, cry, and point towards her Country; I would willingly send her thither, if she could there be a Christian; but this impossibility obliges me to keep her. I would fain understand her, for I believe she is witty, all her Actions show it; she dances after her fashion, and 'tis so pleasantly, that she makes us very merry. I make her wear white Patches, with which she is mightily taken. She is dressed as they are at Morocco, that is, with a short Gown almost without any plights, great Shift-sleeves of fine Cloth, stripped with different colours, like those of our Bohemians or Gypsies; a pair of Stays which are only made of a slip of Crimson Velvet with a gold ground, and are made fast at the sides with silver Buckles and Buttons, and a Mantle of very fine white woollen stuff, very large and long, in which she wraps herself, and with one corner of it covers her Head. This dress is handsome enough; her short Hair, which looks like Wool, is cut in several places, on each side like a Halfmoon, on the the Crown a Circle, and before a Heart; she cost me twenty Pistols, my Daughter hath made her Governess of her Marmosett; it is the little Monkey which the Archbishop of Burgos presented to her. I do assure you, that Said and the Marmosett are well met, and understand one another very well.  
But to come to other things, here's arrived a Man which has been fetched from the farthest parts of Galicia; he is such a Saint, that he has done many Miracles, as 'tis pretended. The Marchioness de Los Velez, heretofore Governess of the King, was like to die, and she sent to have him come in all haste, but they were so long upon the Journey, that she was well again before he came. It was known what day he would arrive, and while she was then expecting him, Don Fernand de Tolleda, who is her Nephew, and had not seen her since his return from Flanders, because of her having been sick; knowing that she was then much better, happened to go to her House much about the time the Saint of Galitia was to be there. The Marchioness' People seeing him, and not knowing him at all, (for he had been absent several years) without considering that there were few Men of his Age and Looks so happy as to work Miracles, concluded, at first sight, that he was the Saint: immediately they threw open the great door, and rung the Bell for the signal, as the Marchioness had ordered them; all the Duennas and the Maids came to receive him with every one a Wax-Candle in her hand; several of them fell upon their Knees, and would not let him stir till he had given them his blessing. He thought they made a fool of him, to give him such a reception; he knew not whether he was bewitched, or whether he dreamt; and do what he could, he could not persuade himself that all this was real; it was to no purpose to talk to them, they minded him not at all, the noise and the crowd was so great; they brought their Beads to touch him, and those that were far off him, threw them at his Head, with a hundred Medals fastened to them. The most zealous began to cut his Cloak and his ; and now his fear began to be very great, lest through a desire to multiply his Relics, they did not cut him to pieces. The Marchioness de Los Veloz, who was carried between four in a great Elbow-Chair, came to meet the Holy Man: and truly when she perceived the mistake, and saw it was her Nephew, she fell a laughing so loud and so long, that she far exceeded the strength every body thought she had. When he came from her House, he came to see us, all torn, and just as the devout People had left him.  
I should tell you, that all is mighty private and retired in this Court; but here's the way and manner how some particular Persons live: In the Morning as soon as they are up, they drink Water cooled with Ice, and presently after Chocolate; when Dinnertime is come, the Master sits down to Table, his Wife and Children, as I have already observed, eat upon the Floor near the Table; this is not done out of respect, as they tell me, but the Woman cannot sit upon a Chair, she is not accustomed to it; and there are several ancient Spanish Women which never sat upon one in their whole Life: they make a light meal, for they eat little flesh; the best of their food are Pigeons, Pheasants, and their Olios which are excellent; but the greatest Lord has not brought to his Table above two Pigeons, and some very bad Ragou, full of Garlic and Pepper; and after that some Fennel and a little Fruit: when this little Dinner is over, every one in the House undress themselves, and lie down upon their Beds, upon which they lay Spanish Leather-Skins for coolness: at this time you shall not find a soul in the Streets; the Shops are shut, all Trade ceased, and it looks as if every body were dead. At two a Clock in the Winter, and at four in the Summer, they begin to dress themselves again, then eat Sweetmeats, drink either some Chocolate, or Waters cooled in Ice, and afterwards every body goes where they think fit; and indeed they tarry out till eleven or twelve a Clock at Night, I speak of People that live regularly. Then the Husband and Wife go to Bed, a great Tablecloth is spread all over the Bed, and each fastens it under their Chin; the He and She Dwarves serve up Supper, which is as frugal as the Dinner, for it is either a Pheasant Hen made into a Ragou, or some Pastry business, which burns the Mouth, it is so excessively peppered. The Lady drinks her belly full of Water, and the Gentleman very sparingly of the Wine, and when Supper is ended, each goes to sleep as well as they can.  
The unmarried, or those who observe but few rules with their Wives, after they have been taking the Air in the Prado, where in Summer they go half naked in their Coaches; I mean when 'tis dark they get a light Supper, mount their Horses, and take a Footman behind them, they do this that they may not lose him; for going in the darkest Night through so many Streets very quick, how should a Footman be able to turn and wind, and follow his Master? But they are also afraid of being assaulted behind, the Footman having no other care than to look about him, is as it were the Sentinel, and is ready to defend his Master. There may be some which will do this, but most of them in such cases run away, for they are not stout. This nocturnal Ramble is upon the Lady's account, they then visit them, and to gain an Empire, they would not neglest that opportunity. They talk to them through the Lattice of their Windows, sometimes they go into their Gardens, and when they can into their Chambers. Their Passion is so violent, that they'll look the greatest danger in the face; they'll go to the very place where the Husband sleeps, and I have been told that they'll see one another years together, without daring to speak one word, for fear of being heard. They are ignorant in France what 'tis to love at the rate these People are said to love. And not to mention the cares, the earnest desires, the nicety, and the devoting of themselves up even to death, (for the Husband and the Relations give no quarter) that which I admire, is their Fidelity and Secrecy. It is never known, that a Cavallero boasts of having received Favours from a Lady; they speak of their Mistresses with so much respect and value, as if they were their Sovereigns. And on the other hand, these Ladies never desire to oblige any other than their Gallants, they are entirely taken up with him; and although they cannot see him in the daytime, yet they have opportunity to employ several hours about him, either in writing to, or speaking of him with some she Friend who is privy to the Intrigue; or else in waiting all the day long, and looking through their Lattices to see him go by. In a word, upon all that I have been told about these Matters, I can easily believe, that Love had its Birth in Spain.  
Whilst the Cavalleroes are with their Mistresses, their Footmen look after their Horses at some distance from the House; but there are very often unpleasant Mischances happen to them, for there being no necessary places in their Houses, all night long they throw that out of their Windows, which decency hinders me from naming to you; so that the amorous Spaniard which goes silently along the Street, is many times in a nasty condition from head to foot; and though at his coming out he was curiously perfumed, yet he is forced to return as fast as he can to change his . This is one of the greatest Inconveniencies in this City, and which renders it so stinking and filthy, that in the Morning one can hardly pass along the Streets. I say in the Morning, for the Air is here so subtle and hot, that all this nastiness is consumed before Noon. When a Horse, or any other Animal dies, they throw him into the Street where he happens to be, though it were before the Palace-gate, and the next day you'll find him reduced to dust. They are persuaded, that if they did not throw out their Filth and Carrion in this manner into their Streets, Madrid would not be long without the Plague, and it never is there.  
But besides those ways I have now mentioned, that Gallants have to see their Mistresses, they have yet others; for the Ladies visit one another frequently, and there is nothing more easy for them than to wear a Veil, and by the back door go into a Chair, and be carried where they will: And this is the more practicable, because all the Women agree to keep one another's Secrets inviolably, let there be what Differences there will amongst them, and let them never be so angry one against another, yet they never open their lips to make the least Discovery; their Discretion cannot be sufficiently praised: It is true indeed, the consequences would be more fatal if they did otherwise, since they make nothing here of murdering upon a bare Suspicion.  
After this manner, the L●●ies make their Visits to one another; you must not go to see your Friend when you have a mind, you must tarry till you are desired to come, and the Lady that has a mind to be visited, writes a Letter in the Morning, and invites you, you are carried in a Chair which is extreme 〈◊〉 every way, and that they may be the lighter, they are made only of a thin stuff hung upon a wooden frame, these stuffs are always mixed with Gold and Silver, and are very rich; they have in them three great Glasses, and the top is made of a very thin Leather, lined as the rest, and it opens upwards that so one may go in and out more conveniently; to every Chair there's four Bearers, which relieve one another, and a Footman carries the Hat of the foremost; for let it be what Wether it will, he must not be covered before his Mistress. The Lady is set as fast in her Chair, as a Diamond-stone in a Ring; she either wears no Mantle or Veil then, or if she does, it has a black English Lace set on it, half an Ell deep very fine and dear; this is becoming enough: she has also a Coach with four Mules in those long Traces I have formerly mentioned, which follows softly after the Chair, that is commonly filled with old Gentlemen-Ushers, and five or six Pages; for every body has these, my Banker's Wife has two. The Ladies never take any of their Women with them; and though several of them are going the same place, yet they each of them take a Chair to themselves, and do not go together in any one of their Coaches. I happened t'other day, to be in a stop there was in a Street, and there came by me fifty Chairs, and as many Coaches one after another, they came out of the Duchess De Frias, and went to the Duchess D' Vzeda's House, I'll tell you why they went thither, when I have first told you that when the Lady is come to her House whom she goes to visit, the Chairmen carry her as far as the Antichamber, the Stairs are made purposely very wide and low, for the greater ease, assoon as she is set down, she sends away all her People and her Coach, and appoints them what hour to come and fetch her home, which is usually between ten and eleven a Clock, for their Visits are long enough to tyre the greatest Patience.  
There never comes any Men where they are met, a jealous Husband would have little to do to seek his Wife among them; he would be laughed at, and they would not vouchsafe to give him any other Satisfaction, than telling him, That she is where he is not. The good Women are cunning enough, and they make use of this liberty; for you must know that every House has its back doors, by which they can steal out, and never be seen. Besides this, every one has a Brother at her Sisters, a Son at her Mothers, or a Nephew at her Aunts, and this is another pretence they make use of to see their Lover. Love in this Country is very ingenious, nothing is neglected to gratify their Passion, and the Mistress meets with Fidelity; there are Intrigues that last one's Life, and yet there has not been an hours time loss to accomplish them, all Opportunities are improved, and there needs no more after seeing and liking one another.  
I was some days ago at the Marchioness D' Alcannizas', she's one of the greatest and most virtuous Ladies of the Court; discoursing of these things, she very freely said to us, I must needs confess, that if a Cavallero should be convenienly alone with me half an hour, and did not ask me all that a Man could ask, I should resent it so briskly, that I would stab him if I could. And would you grant him all the Favours he might ask you, interrupted the Marchioness De Liche, who is young and handsome? That does not follow, replied my Lady D' Alcannizas', on the contrary, I have reason to believe, that I should grant him nothing at all; but then I could not reproach him with any thing, whereas if he made no attempt upon me, I should conclude he despised me. There are few, I believe, but what are of the same opinion in this matter.  
There's one thing I find very odd, and not to look well, methinks in a Catholic Kingdom, and that is, The tollerating of Men, that keep Mistresses so openly, without the least disguise; it is very true that they are forbid by the Laws, but they value not the Laws, and only obey their own Inclinations, and yet no body offers to call them to account, or to reprove them in the least. These Mistresses are called Amancebades; though a Man is married, yet he must have one of these Creatures, and often the natural Children are brought up with the legitimate in the sight of the poor Wife, who patiently bears all this without so much as speaking a word. It is very seldom one hears of any Differences between Husband and Wife, and yet seldomer, that they separate as in France. Of an infinite number of Persons that I know here, I have only seen the Princess Della Rocea, that does not live with her Husband, but in a Convent, the Courts of Justice are not much troubled here with domestic Quarrels.  
It seems extraordinary to me that a Lady who loves, and is beloved by a Cavallero, is not jealous of his Amancebada; she looks upon her as a second Wife, and believes she cannot stand in competition with her; so that a Man has his Wife, his Amancebade, and his Mistress, this last is generally a Person of Quality; 'tis she that is visited in the Night, and for whom they venture their Lives.  
It happens sometimes that a Lady covered with her great plain Mantle or Veil, and not showing any more of her Face than half an Eye, and being ordinarily dressed, because she would not be known, and having no mind to take a Chair, walks afoot to the place of Rendezvous; either her being little used to walk, or very often, her manner and way distinguishes her: a Cavallero follows, and gins to talk to her, uneasy to have such a Companion which it is hard to get rid of, she addresses herself to the first she meets, and without further discovery of herself, I conjure you, says she to him, to hinder this importunate Man to follow me any longer, his curiosity may injure my affairs; this Request amounts to a command with a brave Spaniard; he asks him against whom the Lady complains, why he will press upon her against her mind, and if he meets with an obstinate Person, the Sword must be drawn, and sometimes they kill each other, without knowing for whom they have so exposed themselves. In the mean while, the Lady makes the best of her way, leaves them fight together, and goes where she's expected; but the jest is, that very often this proves either to be the Husband or the Brother that asserts her Cause, and by defending her from the Pursuit of the inquisitive, gives her an Opportunity to enjoy the embraces of her Gallant.  
Some time ago, a young Lady who dearly loved her Husband, being informed that he did not live so regularly as he should, disguised herself, put on her Veil, and standing in a Street he used often to pass through, she spied him and gave him an Opportunity to speak to her. After he had occosted her, she began to thou him; and 'tis commonly in this familiar way that the Women in this Country make known their Inclinations. He made a Proposal to her, which she accepted, but upon condition that he should not be desirous either to see her or know who she was: he promised he would not, and so led her to a Friend of his; at their parting he assured her, that he thought himself the happiest of Men, and that Fortune had never been so kind to him before, and then gave her a very fine Ring, and begged her to keep it for his sake. I'll keep and love it dearly, and will meet thee here again when thou wilt, says she to him, for I had as good have thy Jewels as another. When she had ended these words, she opened her Veil, and the Husband seeing 'twas his Wife, was in the greatest confusion imaginable at his Adventure; but he considered, that since she had so well contrived the matter as to get out of her House to watch him, she might also find a way to play him some other trick less pleasant; and therefore to be secure of her, he appointed two Duennas constantly to look after her, and they never after left her.  
It happens also sometimes, that when a Man's House is not near the Place, where by chance he meets his Mistress, he goes without Ceremony into the next he comes at, whether he is acquainted there or no, he civilly entreats the Master to let him have a Room to himself, because he has now an Opportunity to discourse with a Lady, which if he loses, he shall not have the like in a long time; this is enough to make the Master grant an Accommodation to the Gallant and his Mistress, and sometimes, I assure you, 'tis the very Wife of the Fool that goes away so kindly; in a word, they will venture strangely for an Opportunity of seeing each other, though but for a quarter of an hour.  
I remember a French Lady, discoursing of a certain Man to one of her Friends, said, Show me an amorous Man, and I'll show you one ruined. This Maxim is verified here, more than in any place in the World; a Lover or a Gallant has nothing that he can call his own. It is no matter whether she either sees, or has a real occasion for a thing, 'tis sufficient if she does but barely desire it, they are never denied any thing, and the manner of giving it, enhaunses their Liberality. I find them nothing near so amicable as our Frenchmen, but 'tis said they know how to love at a greater rate. Besides, their Behaviour is a thousand times more respectful, nay this extends so far, that when a Man, let him be of what Quality he will, presents any thing, or gives a Letter to a Lady, he knelt upon one knee, and he does the same, when he receives any thing from her hand.  
I said I would tell you, why so many Ladies went to the Duchess of D' Vzeda's; she is very amiable, and Daughter to the Duke D' Ossone, her Husband has had a Quarrel with the Prince De Stillano, about a Lady which they both love; they drew their Swords, and 'tis like to be an ill business. The King has caused them to be arrested, that is, they are not made Prisoners, but he has confined them to their Houses; unless they privately go abroad in the Night to pursue their usual amorous Pleasures. And that which is strange, the poor Wife must not set her foot out of door as long as her Husband is under these Confinements, though it is almost constantly for some piece of Infidelity he is guilty of towards her. And it is the same also, if they be banished, or sent to remain upon some of their own Estates in the Country, which frequently happens. In all the time of their Absence, their Wives keep house without so much as once going abroad. I have been told, that the Duchess D' Ossone, was a Prisoner after this manner for above two Years; this is the Custom, but it makes one's Life very dull and tedious.  
But 'tis not only the Spanish Ladies, who are so tired and uneasy here, the French find but little diversion: We are in a few days to go to Arranjues and Toledo to kiss the Queen Mother's hand; I'll write you, dear Cousin, the particulars of that small Journey, and I wish with all my Soul I were in a condition to give you more essential marks of my Affection.  
From Madrid this 25 of July, 1679.   

LETTER XIII.  
BY my last Letter, I told you, Dear Cousin, that we were to kiss the Queen Mother's Hand; I have had this Honour, but before I conduct you thither, give me leave to tell you of something else. I would not go from Madrid till I had seen the Entry of the Marquis De Villars; he made it on Horseback, which is the Custom here, and if a Man be handsome, it is very advantageous for him: when the Venetian Ambassador made his, it was happy for him that he was not in his Coach; he had one that was worth twelve thousand Crowns, which in going from his House was overturned, and as it was in Winter, the Marée (which is that nasty black dirt that stands in great puddles in the Streets, and through which a Horse goes up to his Girts) so spoiled the Velvet with a Gold ground, and the rich Embroidery it was set off with, that it could never serve again. I thought it strange that for such usual Sights as these Entrees are, the Ladies should all be in their Balconies, in their rich Apparel, and with the same earnestness, as if it was to see the greatest King upon earth; but they have so little liberty, that they are glad to embrace all Occasions to show themselves; and as their Lovers and Gallants hardly ever speak to them, so they take care to place their Coaches as near their Mistress' Balcony, as they can, that so they may the more easily discourse with them by their Eyes and their Fingers; this is a Practice that is very useful to them for the understanding one another's Minds, and they do it more readily than with their Voice, this silent Language seems to me very difficult unless one were long used to it; but they are early acquainted with it, and but two days since, I saw a Girl of about six years old and a Boy of the same Age, which understood by this way to tell one another a thousand pretty things. Don Frederick De Cordonna, who observed them as well as I, but understood them far better, explained to me every thing they said; and if he did not add to the Discourse of these two Children, one must needs confess, that in this Country, they are born for Love and Courtship.  
The Marchioness De Palacio, the Mother of Don Fernand de Tolleda, is one of my Kinswoman's best Friends; she has a fine House called Igarica, upon the Banks of Xarama, and though this Lady is now very old, yet she never was there, notwithstanding it is but eight leagues from Madrid. It is not looked upon in this Country to be according to Grandeur to go visit their Lands, except they lie in some Principality or some City, and then they call them by the Name of their State. I chid this Lady for her Carelessness, and my Kinswoman engaged her to make one in the Company of her Daughter Donna Mariguita, who is a little Woman, pale, fat and fair; these three Qualities are equally rare here, and she's admired by every body that sees her; the young Marchioness De la Rosa, would also be of our Company, her Husband, with Don Fernand de Tolleda, Don Sanche, Sarmiento, and Esteve de Carvajal, went on Horseback; Don Frederick de Cardonna, would not have failed of being there too, had not the Archbishop of Burgos writ him to come to him in all haste: when he told it me, I desired him to go see the fair Marchioness De Los Rios alas Huelgas. I gave him a Letter for her, in which I taxed her with her silence, and desired to know particularly how all things went. We set forward in two Coaches the sixth of August, at ten a Clock at Night, in the finest Wether that could be; the Heats were so excessive, that unless one would venture their Lives, it was impossible to travel in the daytime; but the Nights are cool, and the Coaches are in the Summer all open; the sides of the Coach were turned up quite round, with fine large Holland Curtains, trimmed with fine English Bonelace, and tied with Knots of coloured Ribbond, and as they often change them, they look very neat. We went so swift, that I was almost dead with fear lest something about our Coach should break; for it is certain, that we might have been all killed a hundred times over, before the Coachman would have known any thing of the matter. I fancy they run so, to make amends for their slow going in Madrid; for even the Footpace of the Mules is too quick there, because of the ill pavement, the holes, the dirt in Winer, and the dust in Summer, with which the Streets are extremely troubled. The Marchioness De Palacios wore a little Hat, trimmed with Feathers, according to the mode of the Spanish Ladies when they go into the Country; and the Marchioness De la Rosa looked very pretty in her short close-coat, straight sleeves, and her other Ornaments, upon sight of which, we cried out, that we thought her Muy Bizzarra, and Muy de Gala, that is, very gallant and very splendid.  
It was very odd methinks, that these Ladies should oblige us in three several Places upon the Road to alight out of our Coach, and hear the Marchioness de la Rosa's two Gentlemen play upon the Guittar, whom it seems they brought on purpose, and it was pretty comical to see these Blades gallop with their guitars hanging behind their Backs. This ordinary consort of Music was nevertheless ravishing to them, and they were extremely charmed with the pleasantness of the Country in so fine a Night. Indeed, I never saw Women so infinitely satisfied. We arrived at Arranjues about five a Clock in the Morning, and I was amazed at its wonderful Situation; half a League on this side the Tagus we passed over a wooden Bridge, which is made to shut up; and after that we came into some Walks of Elm and Lime Trees, which were so high, green and shady, that the heat of the Sun is never felt. It is an extraordinary thing to find so near Madrid, Trees so perfect in their kind, for the Soil is very barren, and they will not grow there; but yet near Arranjues, one cannot perceive this defect I speak of, for all along the Walks, and near the Trees, there are little Pits and Trenches made, into which the Water of Tagus runs and moistens the roots of the Trees. These Avenues are so long, that when one is in the middle, one cannot see to the end of 'em. Several Alleys come into these, and every way make the perfect figure of a Star. People walk on the Banks of the Tagus and Xamara, which are two famous Rivers that environ the Island in which Arranjues stands, and which supplies it with Water, and extremely contributes to its beautifulness. To speak truly, I never saw a more delightful place; I must confess the Gardens are too close, and several of their Alleys too narrow, but yet it ravishes one to walk there; and at our coming into them, I fancied myself in some enchanted Palace. The Morning was cool, every where the Birds made a sweet Melody, and the Waters a pleasant murmuring noise, the Trees and Hedges were loaden with excellent Fruit, and the Parterres were covered with most odoriferent Flowers, and I enjoyed all this in most pleasant Company. We had an Order from Don John to be lodged in the Castle, so that the Alcade received us with great Civility, and was very careful to show us every thing that was the most remarkable. The Fountains are in that number, and there are so very many of them, that it is impossible to pass through an Alley, to go into an Arbour, or upon a Patere or Terrass without taking notice of five or six with brazen Statues, and marble Basins: The Spouts throw up their Water to a vast height, they are not fed from Springs, but from the Tagus. Amongst others, I'll give you an account of the Fountain of Diana; It stands upon an ascent, from whence it is seen at a great distance; the Goddess is in the midst, environed with Bucks, Does, and Dogs, and every one of them spouts out Water. A little lower is a circle of Myrrh, cut in several fashions, and little Cupid's peeping out half way, and throw the Water against those Animals which stand about the Fountain. The Mountain of Parnassus raises up its head in the midst of a great Pond, with Apollo, the Muses, Pagassius' Horse, and a fall of Water which represents the River of Helicon. Out of a Rock there issues out a thousand several Spouts of Water, some launching out, others winding in and out like a Serpent upon the Surface of the Pond; some gliding gently, and others, either falling like Flowers in the Air, or else like Rain. The Fountain of Ganymedes is also very pretty, this beautiful Child sitting upon Jupiter's Eagle, seems frighted with its flight; the Bird sits on the top of a Pillar with its Wings spread; he throws out the Water by his Beak and his Talons; the Fountain of Mars is near this: That of the Harpies is fine, they are placed upon very high Marble Pillars; at the four corners they throw out Water every way, they seem to have a mind to drown a little Youth who sits in the middle of the Fountain, picking a Thorn out of his Foot. But the most pleasant of all is, the Fountain of Love; this little God seems to rise with his Body all full of Darts, from every one of which comes out a Spout of Water. The three Graces sit at the Feet of the God of Love; but that which is most extraordinary, is the Water which falls from four high Trees like Fountains, whose noise is very delightful and surprising, it not being natural for Water to come out of Trees.  
I should be afraid to tyre you, did I undertake to tell you the vast number of Cataracts, Falls, and Fountains of Water which I have seen here, I will only in general assure you, that it is a Place worthy of the curiosity and attention of every body. At eight a Clock the Sun began to be too hot, and some went into the House, which comes far short of that Beauty it should have, justly to answer all the other things; and when the King goes there, those that attend him are so ill accommodated with Lodging, that either he must be contented to go there in all haste, and keep his Court a little, or else go as far as Tolleda; for there are only two bad Inns, and a very few private Houses. If we had not taken care before hand for Provisions, even to Bread, I am confident we had met with none, unless the Alcade would have given us some of his. And by the way, I'll inform you the difference there's between the Alcade and Alcalde, that so you may not confound them; the first signifies the Governor of a Castle or Place, and the other a Sergeant. Although the most curious Pictures are at the Escurial, yet I found some excellent ones in the King's Apartment at Arranjues; it is furnished according to the Season we are now in, that is to say, the Walls are all white, have only a Matt that is very fine and thin about three foot deep with some Looking-glasses and Pictures. In this Building there are divers little Courts, which takes from the grace of it. We eat our Breakfast all together, and they persuaded me to eat some of a Fruit they call Pimento, which is as long as one's finger, but as hot as Pepper, the least bit of which puts one's Mouth in a Flame, they let it lie steeping in Vinegar and Salt, to get out the Virtue: this Fruit is brought into Spain growing upon a Plant; and I never saw any of it in other Countries where I have been. We had an Ollio, some Ragous' made of cold Partridges with Oil, Canary Wine, fat Pullet's, and Pigeons which are excellent here, and also several sorts of Fruit, which was extraordinary fair. When this Repast, which was worth a Dinner, was ended, we went to Bed, and went not a walking till about seven a Clock in the Evening. The Charms of this Place were as new to me as if I had not seen them in the Morning, but particularly, I still admired the Situation, which indeed ravishes, on what side soever one turns the Eyes. The King is there, with half a dozen of his Guards, in great safety, because there's no getting at him but over Bridges, which are all drawn up, and the Xamara, which in this Place, swells the Waters of Tagas, fortifies Arranjus. After we had walked till ten a Clock at Night, we came back into a great Hall, paved with Marble, and supported with Pillars of the same. It was all enlightened with divers branched Candlesticks, and Don Esteve de Carvajal had privately got thither several Musicians, which were a pleasant sort of a surprise to us, at least the Spanish Ladies and my Kinswoman were mightily delighted with them. For my part, I thought they sung too much in the Throat, and their Divisions and Shakes were so long, that they were tedious; not but that their Voices are good, but their manner of singing is not good, and generally the greatest part in Spain, do not sing as they do in France and Italy. When Supper was done, we went to the great Canal, where there's a small Gallion painted and gilt, we went aboard her, and tarried till two a Clock in the Morning, and then we set forward on our way to Tolleda.  
I took notice when we came out of Arranjues, that the Ground was all Heath and Ling, and yet the Air was perfumed with wild and mother Time, with which these Plains were all covered. They told me there were a great many Rabits, Stags, Does, and Fallow Deer, but it was not then their time to appear. Our Conversation was for sometime general, and for two Leagues together from Arranjues, I did not speak one word to Don Fernand, though he sat just close by me; But being willing to employ the time, in thoroughly informing myself about all the Particulars of the cruel Inquisition, which he had promised to acquaint me with, I desired him to let me know something of it,  
The Inquisition, says he, has not been known in Europe, but since the beginning of the Thirteenth Century. Before that time, the Bishops and Civil Magistrates, enquired after Heretics, and either condemned them to Banishment, or to the Forfeiture of their Goods and Estates, or else, to some other Penalties, which never almost extended to Death: But the vast number of Heresies which appeared towards the end of the Twelfth Age, caused that Tribunal to be Established: The Pope sent several Religious Persons to the Catholic Princes and Bishops, to exhort them, to take an extraordinary care, in the Extirpation of Heresies, and to bring obstinate Heretics to punishments: and thus things continued till the Year 1250.  
In the Year 1251. Innocent IU. Authorised the Dominican Friars with the assistance of the Bishops, to take Cognizance of these sort of Crimes. Clement the iv confirmed these Tribunals in the Year 1265. Afterward, there were several Courts erected in Italy, and in the Kingdoms which were dependants of the Crown of Arragon, till such time, that the Inquisition was established in the Kingdoms of Castille, in the Reign of Ferdinand and Isabel, and after that in Portugal, by King John the III. in the Year 1557.  
To that time the Inquisitors had a limited Power, and it was often contested by the Bishops, to whom the Cognizance of Heritical Crimes belonged. According to the Canons, it was contrary to the Rules of the Church, for Priests to sentence any Criminals to Death, much more for those Crimes, which the Civil Laws often punished, with far less severe Penalties: But ancient Right yielding to new Power, the Dominican Friars by the Pope's Bulls have been for these two Ages, in possession of this extraordinary Jurisdiction; from which the Bishops have been excluded, the Inquisitors now only wanted the Authority of the Prince, to enable them to execute their Sentences. Before Isabel of Castille came to the Crown, the Dominican John de Torquemada, her Confessor, and afterward Cardinal, made her promise him to persecute all Infidels, and Heretics, as soon as it should be in her Power to do so. She pervailed over Ferdinand her Husband to obtain, in the Year 1483. Bulls from Pope Sixtus the iv to constitute an Inquisitor General, over the Kingdoms of Arragon and Valentia, for these two Kingdoms were his Fee held in Capite: and it is to be noted, that Ferdinand disposed of the Places in his Estates, and Isabel of those that were in hers: but the Queen got this Place for Torquemada. Afterwards the Pope extended his Jurisdiction over all the States and Countries of the Catholic Kings, and then Ferdinand and Isabel established a Supreme Council of the Inquisition, of which they made him Precedent: It is composed of an Inquisitor-General, (who is nominated by the King of Spain, and confirmed by the Pope) of five Counsellors, whereof one is to be a Dominican, by a Privilege granted to this Order, in the Year 1616. by Philip the III. Of a Procurator, two Secretaries of the King's Chamber, two Secretaries of the Council, an Alguazil Mayor, a Receiver, two Reporters, and two Qualificators. and Consulters. The Number of the Familiars and small Officers is very great, because all that belong to the Inquisition being not subject to or tryable by any other Jurisdiction, shelter themselves here from the ordinary Courts of Justice.  
The Supreme Council hath a full and sole Authority over the other Inquisitions, which cannot perform any Auto or Execution, without leave from the Great and General Inquisitor: The particular Inquisitors are those of Sevile, Tolleda, Grenada, Cordua, Cuenca, Vailladolid, Marcia, Derena, Logronno, St. James Saragossa, Valantia, Barcelona, Majorque, Sardaignia, Palermo, Canaries, Mexico, Cartagena, and Lima.  
Every one of these Inquisitions is composed of three Inquisitors, three Secretaries, one Alguazil Mayor, and of three Receivers, Qualificators and Consulters.  
All Persons that take any of these Employments upon them, are obliged to make out their Proofs De casa Limpia, that is, that their Family is not stained with any thing of Judaisme, or Heresy, and that they are Catholics from the beginning.  
The Proceed of this Tribunal are very unusual. A man is Arrested and lies in Prison, without knowing the Crime he is accused of, or the Witnesses which depose against him: He cannot come out thence, unless he will own the Fault, of which often he is not guilty, and which the desire of Liberty forces him to confess, for they do not put one to death for the first time; but then the Family is marked with Infamy, and this first Judgement makes the Persons uncapable of any Employment.  
There's no confronting of Witnesses, nor any means for a Man to defend himself, because this Tribunal above all things affects an inviolable Secrecy. It proceeds against all Heretics, but chief against Judaizing Christians, and secret Mahometans, of whom the Expulsion of Jews and Moors by Ferdinand and Isabel, has filled all Spain.  
The severity of this Court was so excessive, that the Inquisitor Torquemada tried above a hundred thousand Persons, of which six thousand were condemned to be Burnt in the compass of fourteen Years.  
It is pretended, that the sight of so many Criminals condemned to so terrible a Death, without any regard either to their Sex or Quality confirms and keeps the People in the Romish Religion, and that 'tis the Inquisitor alone, that has hindered the wickedest Heresies from spreading themselves in Spain, even in that time when all Europe besides was infected with them. For this reason, the Kings have given such Arbitrary Authority to this Tribunal, which is called the Tribunal of the Holy Office.  
The general Acts of the Inquisition, which by the greatest part of Europe, are looked upon, only as a bare Execution of Criminals, amongst the Spaniards, are esteemed a Religious Ceremony by which his Catholic Majesty gives public proofs of his Zeal for Religion. And therefore, are called by 'em Autos de Fé, or Acts of Faith; commonly they are performed either at the Accession of the Kings to the Crown, or at their coming to Age, that so they may be the more Authentic: The last was in the Year 1632. and there is one now making ready for the King's Marriage. As there has not been one of a long time, so there are great preparations making to render this as Solemn and as Magnificent as 'tis possible for those sorts of Ceremonies to be. One of the Counsellors of the Inquisition has already drawn a Project of it, which he has showed me: Here's the Contents of it.  
In the great Place at Madrid, there shall be a Theatre erected fifty Foot long; It shall be raised as high as the Balcony designed for the King, and no higher.  
On the rightside of the King's Balcony, quite cross the Theatre, there shall be raised an Amphitheatre, of twenty five or thirty Steps, designed for the Council of the Inquisition, and the other Councils of Spain, on the uppermost of which shall be placed the Chairs under a Canopy, for the General Inquisitor a great deal higher than the King's Balcony. On the left of the the Theatre and the King's Balcony, there shall be another, Amphitheatre as big as the first, upon which the Criminals shall be placed.  
In the middle of the great Theatre, there shall be raised another very little one, on which shall be made two Cages, where the Criminals shall be kept while their Sentence is reading.  
There shall be likewise placed upon the great Theatre, three Chairs for the Readers of the Judgement and for the Preacher, before whom there shall be an Altar erected.  
The Places for their Catholic Majesties shall be so ordered, that the Queen shall be on the left hand of the King, and on the right of the Queen-Mother. All the Queen's Ladies of Honour, shall take up the rest of the length every way of the same Balcony; there shall be other Balconies prepared for the Ambassadors, and Lords and Ladies of the Court, and Scaffolds for the People.  
The Ceremony shall begin by a Procession from St. Mary's Church. A hundred Charcoal-men armed with Pikes and Muskets, shall march before, because they provide the Wood, which is to burn those that are condemned to the Fire. Next them shall follow the Dominicans with a white Cross carried before them; the Duke de Medina Celi shall carry the Standard of the Inquisition according to a Privilege that's Hereditary to his Family: This Standard is of red Damask, on one side of it, is represented a naked Sword, in a Crown of Laurel, and on the other the Arms of Spain.  
After that, shall be carried a green Cross, wrapped about with black Crape; and after it shall march several Grandees and other Persons of Quality of the Inquisition, covered with Cloaks, that have black and white Crosses upon them, embroidered with Gold-Thred. The March shall be brought up by fifty Halberdiers or Guards to the Inquisition, clothed in black and white, and commanded by the Marquis De Povar, Hereditary Protector of the Inquisition of the Kingdom of Tolleda.  
After the Procession has in this order passed by the Pallais, it shall come to the great Place; the Standart and the green Cross shall be fixed upon the Altar, and the Dominicans only, shall remain upon the Theatre, and spend part of the Night in Singing Psalms, and as soon as day breaks, they shall celebrate several Masses upon the Altar.  
The King, the Queen and the Queen-Mother, and all the Ladies must be in their Balconies about seven a Clock in the Morning; at eight, the Procession shall begin to march, as it did the day before, by the company of Charcoal-men, who shall place themselves on the left hand of the King's Balcony, the right shall be for his Guards. Afterwards, several Men shall bear certain Pasteboard Effigies as big as Life; some of them representing those that died in Prison, whose Bones shall also be carried in Coffers with Flames painted round them, and the rest shall represent those who have escaped, and who have been condemned for Contumacy: These Figures shall be placed at one end of the Theatre. After that, their Sentence shall be read, and they shall be executed. But I should tell ye, added he, That the Supreme Council of the Inquisition is more absolute than all the others: It is believed that the King himself has not Power to release those which shall be accused before it, because this Tribunal acknowledges the Pope only to be above it, and that there has been a time, when upon some occasions the King's Power, was found too weak to contend with that of the Inquisition. Don Diego Sarmiento is Inquisitor General; He is a mighty honest and good Man; and is about threescore Years of age: The King nominates the Precedent of the Inquisition, and his Holiness confirms him; But as for the Inquisitors, the Precedent proposes them to the King, and after he has approved of them, he than puts them in their Places.  
This Tribunal takes Cognizance of every thing concerning the Faith, and it is absolutely invested both with the Pope's and and the King's Authority, there's no appealing from its Judgement; and the two and twenty Tribunals of the Inquisition, which are in all the Estates of Spain, and which depend upon this at Madrid, every Month render an Account to it, of their Finances, and Revenues, and every Year of their Causes and Criminals: But those of the Indies and the other distant Places, only give an Account at the end of every Year. As to the Places of these inferior Tribunals, they are filled by the General Inquisitors, with the Approbation of the Counsellors. It would be pretty difficult to be able precisely to reckon up the number of the Officers, which belong to the Inquisition; for in Spain alone, there's above two and twenty thousand Familiars of the Holy Office. They are called by this Name, because they are as 'twere Spies, scattered up and down every where, which are continually giving true or false Informations to the Inquisition, upon which those are seized and taken up, which they accuse.  
Whilst with the greatest Attention I was listening to Don Fernand, the Marchioness De Palacios interrupted us, to let us know that we were come near Tolleda, and that certain old Ruins of an ancient Castle which we saw upon our left hand, were those of an enchanted Palace. I seemed to Don Fernand to doubt of what she affirmed, upon which he said, you may think what you please; but certain it is, that there's for it a very ancient Tradition in this Country; and moreover, they pretend that there is a Cave shut up, and a Prophecy which threatened Spain with the greatest Miseries, when ever this Cave was opened: Every body terrified with this threat, had no mind to draw upon themselves the sad Effects, so that this place did for several Ages remain very close. But Don-Rodrigue, the King, less credulous, or more curious, caused it to be opened, upon which there were heard most terrible Noises; every body thought that the very Elements themselves were going into confusion, there was so violent a Tempest: This did not hinder him from going into it, where by light of several Elamboys, he saw the Figures of divers Men, whose  and Arms were very strange: There was one held a Copper Blade in his hand, and upon it was writ in Arabic, that the Time drew near, for the Dissolation of Spain, and that the Persons, whose Statues were there, would ere long come. I never was in any place, said I smiling, where they relied so much on fabulous Tales, as they do in Spain: Say rather, replied he, that there never was any Woman so incredulous as you; and in telling you this Story, I did not think I should alter your Judgement; But as much as one can be assured of a thing by the Testimony of Men, this Story is credible.  
It was now light enough, very plainly to observe all the Charms of the Country. We passed the Tagus over a very great and fine Bridge, of which I had heard, and a little after discovered Tolleda all surrounded with Hills and Rocks, which command it; There are very neat Houses built amongst those Hills, designed for the pleasure of Solitude: The Archbishop of Tolleda has one there, whether he goes often: The City stands upon the Rock, the unevenness of which in divers places contributes to make it high and low; the Streets are narrow, ill paved and troublesome, which is the reason, that all the People of Quality go there, either in Chairs or Litters: And as we were in a Coach, we took up our Quarters in the Placa Mayor, because that is only the part to which one can pass with a Coach; as soon as we were arrived, we alight at the Hospital of Foira, which stands in the Suburbs, whose Building consists of three Sides, within which is a great square Court, and the Church makes up the fourth side, and there we heard Mass: This Hospital was built by an Archbishop of Tolleda, whose Monument and Statue in Marble are in the midst of the body of the Church: The Walls of the City were rebuilt by the Moors; on the Sides stands a great many little Towers, which heretofore served to defend it; And it would be astrong Place, being almost encompassed with the Tagus, and having extreme deep Ditches, did not the adjacent Hills command it, from whence it were easy to batter it down. It was not eight a Clock when we got thither; and we would spend the rest of the Morning in seeing the Church, which as 'tis said, is the finest in Europe: The Spaniards call it Holy, whether 'tis upon the Account of the Relics which are there, or for some other reason which they did not tell me, I know not: If it was as long and as high as 'tis broad, it would be much better. It is beautified with divers Chapels as big as Churches; they all shine with Gold and Paintings; the chief of which are those of the Virgin, St. James, St. Martin, Cardinal Sandoval and the Connestable De Luna. In the Choir, I saw a Niche, or hollow place, from whence 'tis pretended there issued out for several days together, a Spring of Water with which the Soldiers and Citizens quenched their thirst in the time they maintained the Sieges against the Moors, when they were half dead with thirst; For without digressing from my subject, I must tell you, that in the City there is not so much as a Well or a Spring, and that they fetch all their Water from the Tagus, which is so very troublesome, that one would wonder how Tolleda comes to be so full of People as ' 'tis. Near the entrance into the Church, there's a Marble Pillar, which they Reverence, because the Holy Virgin appeared upon't to St. Alphonsus. It is enclosed with an Iron Gate, and through a little Window they kiss it, and upon it is writ, Adoraebimus in loco ubi fleterunt pedes ejus. Between every Canon's Seat there is a Marble Pillar, and the Sculpture of the Church is fine and curiously wrought. I was amazed when I saw the Treasury. There must be thirty Men to carry the Tabernacle upon Corpus Christi day. It is made of Silver gilt, and there is tightly wrought upon't several Spires of Steeples, with abundance of Angels and Cherubins: within this, there's also another of Massy-gold, and such a vast quantity of precious Stones that their value is inestimable; the Chalacies, the Patins and the Pyxes are no less beautiful: Indeed, every thing shines there, with great Diamonds and Oriental Pearls; the Sun, where the Holy Sacrament is kept, the Crowns and Robes of the Virgin are the most splendid things, that I ever saw in my days. But indeed this Archbishopric is so very rich, that it is but just every thing should be answerable to it. I have told you, dear Cousin, that the Archbishop of Burgos informed me, that the Bishopric of Tollada had three hundred and Fifty thousand Crowns a Year. I must now add, that the Revenue of the Church itself, is a Hundred thousand Crowns. Forty Canons, which have every one a thousand Crowns, the Grand , Forty thousand, three Arch-deacons, the first of which has fifteen thousand, the second twelve thousand, and the third ten thousand, and the Dean ten thousand Crowns a Year.  
There is besides, an infinite number of Chaplains, Clerks of the Chapel, and other Persons, to whom daily allowances are given.  
There is the Chaplain Mayor of the Chapel de los Rios, who enjoys twelve thousand Crowns a year, and six others that are under him, have a thousand Crowns per Annum.  
After we had spent a great deal of time in considering the fine things with which this Court was filled, we resolved to return to our Inn, where we had left our Coach; and just when we were going away, there came to us an Almoner and a Gentleman that belonged to Cardinal Porto Carrero, who sent them to compliment us, and to assure us, that by no means we must lodge any where else than at the Archbishops Palace. They chief addressed themselves to the Marchioness de Palacios who was near a kin to him, and who earnestly desired us to go thither: We excused ourselves upon our being in such Disorder, not having slept that Night, and being in an undress: she ordered her Son to go to the Cardinal, and to beg him to accept our excuses. Don Fernand returned in a moment, attended with abundance of Pages, some of which brought Unbrellas of Gold and Silver Brocado. He told us that his Eminence mightily desired we would go to his House, and that he had showed so much concern at our refusal, that indeed he had promised to bring us; and thereupon he commanded them to bring Unbrellas to defend us from the Sun, and that they had watered the place which we mere to cross from the Church to the Palace. And immediately we spied two Mules drawing a little Cart, in which there was a Tub full of Water; and we were told that as oft as the Cardinal was to come to the Church, it was the Custom to water the way.  
The Archbishops Palace is very ancient and large, most richly furnished, and every way suitable to the Person that possesses it. We were conducted into a very fine Apartment, where immediately they brought us Chocolate, and afterwards, all sorts of Fruits, Wine, Water and other Liquors cooled with Ice. We were so sleepy, that after we had eat a little, we begged the Marchionness de Palacios to see the Cardinal, and to excuse us to him, if we deferred giving ourselves that honour, for that we were not able any longer to live without sleep. And indeed, the young Marchionness de la Rose, my Kinswoman and myself, chose to go to bed, and in the Evening, we dressed ourselves to see the Queen-Mother. The Marchioness de Palacios, who had always been extremely devoted to her, went to the Alcacar, which is the Name of the Castle, and made her a visit whilst we slept; so that she told her, she would give us Audience at eight a Clock in the Evening, and that was the first time I was dressed according to the Spanish Mode.  
I do not think there's a more troublesome dress; one's Shoulders must be so squeezed, that it hurts one; there's no lifting up one's Arm, hardly can you get it into the Sleeve. I had on a Fardingal of a dreadful bigness, (for one must wear that in the Queen's Presence) I know not what to do with myself with this strange Invention; there's no sitting down in it, and I believe if I should wear it all my Life, I should never be reconciled to it. My Head was dressed after the Melene fashion, that is, the Hair all spread over the Neck, and tied at the end with some Non-pareil Ribbon, this is a great deal hotter than a Palatine; so that being now in the Month of August, and in Spain, you may easily guests how I pass away my time. But this being a ceremonial Dress of the Head, there was nothing to be omitted upon such an occasion; besides, I wore their Patins which are fit to break one's Neck, than to walk with. When we were all in a Condition to appear, for my Kinswoman and my Daughter were both also dressed after the Spanish fashion, we were led into a Chamber of State, where the Cardinal came to see us; his Name is Don Luis Porto Carrero, he may be about two and forty years old, he's very civil, is of a sweet complaisant Temper, and hath well learned the polite Breeding of the Court of Rome: He stayed an hour with us, and afterwards there was served up to us a very plentiful Meal; but every thing was so full of Amber, that I never tasted any Sauces so rich, and less pleasant. I fancied myself at this Table, like Tantalus, in the midst of Victuals, and yet starved with hunger, because I could not eat; for either all the Meat was perfumed, or else full of Saffron, Garlic, Onion, Pepper and Spices: but with searching about, I found some Jellies and white Meats, which were admirable, and with which I saved myself harmless. There were also brought to Table a Ham of Bacon, which came from the Frontiers of Portugal, and which is better than either those they boast so much of at Bayonu, or those of Ments; but it was spread all over with certain little Comfits, which in France we call Non-pariel, the Sugar of which melted in the Fat; it was drawn full of Limon-peel, which abated much of its goodness. The Fruit was the best and the pleasantest thing one can see, for whole Trees with their Fruit were Iced over with Sugar after the Italian way; you'll easily believe the Trees were not very big. There were Orange Trees thus ordered, with little artificial Birds fastened in them. There were likewise Cherry Trees, Rasberry and Goseberry Bushes, and others set in little Cases of Silver.  
We did not sit long at Table, because the hour for seeing the Queen was near; we were carried thither in Chairs, though it is a pretty distance, and very much up Hill; for the Alcacar is built upon a Rock of a prodigious height, and the Prospect is admirable. Before the Gate there is a very wide Place, afterwards one comes into a Court an hundred and sixty foot long, and an hundred and thirty broad, adorned with two rows of Piazza's, ten rows of the Pillars which made the length, were all of one entire Stone; and the breadth had eight rows of Pillars, and this made a fine show. But that which pleases much better, is the Staircase at the bottom of the Court, which is an hundred and thirty foot wide, like the Court. After one has gone up some steps it parts in two, and to speak the Truth, I believe 'tis one of the fairest in Europe. We went through a great Gallery, and vast Apartments, but met in them so few People, that it did not look as if one could have met with the Queen-Mother of Spain there; she was in a great Hall, whose Windows were all open, and which had a Prospect to the Valleys, and the River. The Hang, Cushions, Carpets and Canopy were all of grey Cloth; the Queen was standing and leaning upon a Balcony, having in her hand a great pair of Beads. When she saw us, she turned towards us, and received us with a Countenance merry enough. We had the Honour to kiss her Hand, which is little, lean and white: She is very pale, her Complexion pure, her Face a little long and flat, her Looks are agreeable, and her Stature is of a middle size; she was dressed as all the Widows in Spain are, that is, like a Nun, without so much as one Hair appearing; and there are many, (though she's not of that number) that cause all their Hair to be cut off when they lose their Husbands, for a greater expression of their Grief. I observed that her Gown was tucked up quite round, that so it might be let down as it wears out; yet I do not believe she practices this, but such is the fashion of the Country. She asked me how long I had been come from France, and I gave her an account; she enquired if they discoursed then of a Marriage between her Son and Mademoiselle d' Orleans, and I told her not; then she said she would show me her Picture which was drawn from that the King her Son had, and she bid one of her Ladies, who was an old Duenna, and very ugly, bring it. It was drawn in water Colours, in the bigness of ones hand, in a Box covered with black Satin, and lined with green Velvet. Do you find, says she, that it is like her? I assured her that there were not any of her Features; for indeed it seemed to squint, the Face was awry, and nothing could less resemble a Princess so perfect as Mademoiselle. She asked me whether she was more or else handsome than this Picture. I told her, that she was handsomer beyond comparison. The King my Son then, replied she, will be pleasantly cheated, for he believes this Picture is just like her, and no body can be better satisfied than he is with her. For my part, her Eyes that look askew were troublesome to me; but to comfort myself, I considered that she had a great share of Wit, and divers other good Qualitles. Do not you remember, says she, to the Marchioness de Palacios, to have seen my Picture in the late King's Chamber? Yes, Madam, answered the Marchioness, and very well remember also, that as soon as we saw your Majesty, we all wondered extremely, why the Painter would do you so much wrong; that's what I would have said to you, replied she, for when I arrived here, and cast my Eyes upon that Picture which they said was made for me, I in vain tried to believe it, but I could not do't. A little she Dwarf, but thick as a Tun, and no taller than a good big Mushroom, clothed all in Gold and Silver Brocade, with long Hair hanging dowh to her Feet, came in, and kneeling before the Queen, asked her if she would please to have Supper; upon which we offered to withdraw, but she told us, we might follow her, and she went into a Parlour all of Marble, she sat down to Table all alone, and we all stood round her. Her Maids of Honour, with the Camera Mayor, who looked very sad, came to wait on her. I saw some of them, which methinks were very handsome; they talked to the Marchioness de Palacios, and told her, that they were horribly tired with that sort of Life, and that they lived at Tolleda, as if they were in a Desert. These were called Damas' de Palecio, and they wear Patins; but for the little Menines, they wear Shoes quite flat; the Menines are Children of the highest Quality, and neither wear Cloak nor Sword.  
There were several Dishes brought before the Queen, the first were Melons cooled with Ice, and some Salads and Milk, of which she eat plentifully before she touched any of the Flesh, which looked ill enough. She does not want a Stomach, and she drank a little Wine pure, saying that was to digest her Fruit: When she called for Drink, the first Menin brought her Cup covered upon a Salver, and kneeling gave it to the Camarera, who also kneeled when the Queen took it from her Hands; and on the other side, a Lady of the Palace presented upon Knee a Napkin to the Queen to wipe her Mouth with: She gave some dried Sweetmeats to Donna Mariguita de Palacios, and to my Daughter, in saying to them, they must not eat much of such things, because they spoiled the Teeth of young Girls. She asked me divers times, how the Most Christian Queen did, and how she diverted herself? She said, that she had lately sent her some Boxes of Amber Pastils, some Gloves, and some Chocolate: She was above an hour and half at Table, speaking little, but seemed merry enough. We desired to know her Commands for Madrid, whereupon she expressed a great deal of Kindness and Civility, and after that we took our leave of her. It cannot be denied, that this Queen has abundance of Understanding, as well as Courage and Virtue, to take as she does, so tedious a Banishment.  
I must not forget to tell you, that the first Menine brings the Queen's Patins and puts them on; this is so great an Honour in this Country, that they would not change it for the best place belonging to the Crown. When the Ladies of the Palace marry, and with the Queen's consent, she adds to their Portions fifty thousand Crowns, and commonly some Government or Vice-Royalty is given to their Husbands.  
When we came back to the Cardinal's House, we found a Theatre prepared in a mighty great Room, and abundance of Ladies on one side, and Cavalleroes on the other; and that which seemed pretty odd to me, was a Damask Curtain which was drawn all the length of the Room to the very Theatre, and so hindered the Men and the Women from seeing one another: They only stayed for us, to begin the Comedy of Pyramus and Thisbe; this was a new Play, but the worst that I have yet seen in Spain. Afterwards the Comedians danced very well, and the Diversion lasted till after two a Clock in the Morning.  
There was given a stately Supper in a great Hall, where there were divers Tables; and when the Cardinal had placed us, he went back to the Cavalleroes, who had the same things on their side as we had: There was an excellent Italian Consort of Music, for his Eminence had brought with him Musicians from Rome, to whom he gave large Pensions. It was six a Clock in the Morning before we could retire to our Apartment; and as there were divers things for us yet to see, instead of going to bed; we went to the Placa Mayor, which they call Secodebet; the Houses which environ it are of Brick, and all uniform, with Balconies: It is of a round Figure, and has Piazzas about it, under which People walk, and this is a fine Place. We went back to the Castle to view it better and more leisurely; The Building is after the Gothick fashion, and very ancient; but there's something in't that looks so great, that I do not wonder that Charles V had rather have lived there, than in any other City under his Obedience. It contains in a square, four great Apartments with their several Wings and Pavilions; there's room enough conveniently to lodge the whole Court of a great King. We were showed a Machine that was very strange before it was broken; it was to draw up the Water from the Tagus, and to make it rise to the top of the Alcacar; the House where it stood is yet whole, though it be several Ages since it was built. There's above five hundred steps from it to the River side; when the Water was come into the Receiver, it ran by certain Channels into all parts of the City where there were Fountains: This was a mighty Conveniency, for now they are forced to draw their Water thirty fathom deep.  
We went and heard Mass in the Church de Los Reys: It is fair and large, and all full of Oranges and Pomegranet Trees, Jassemin and Myrtles, that are very high; they are set in Cases, and are formed into Walks up to the very high Altar, whose Ornaments are extraordinary rich, so that looking through all these green Boughs, and the Flowers of different Colours, upon the shining Gold, Silver, Embroidery, and great lighted Candles which adorn the Altar, it seems as if the Rays of the Sun played before your Eyes. There are also some Cages painted and gilt, and filled with Nightingales, Canary Birds and others, which make a charming noise. I should be very glad that in France they would imitate them in adorning our Churches. The Walls of this Church is all over covered on the outside with the Chains and Irons of the Captives which have been redeemed out of Barbary. In this part of the Town I observed that most of the Houses had upon their Doors a square piece of Earthen Ware, upon which was set the Angelical Salutation in these words, Maria sue concebida sin peca lo original. I was told that these Houses belonged to the Archbishop, and that none but those that work in Silk dwell in them, of which there are very many at Tolleda. The two stone Bridges cross the River are very high, broad and long: If they would but take a little pains with the Tagus, Boats might come up to the City, this would be a considerable Conveniency; but they are naturally too lazy, to consider that the Profit and Advantage of a work is to be preferred before the trouble of undertaking it. We also saw the Hospital of Los Linnos; that is of Foundlings, and the City-House which is near the Cathedral; and at last our Curiosity being satisfied, we came back to the Archiepiscopal Palace, and we went to Bed and laid till Night, when again we had another Feast as splendid as the former: His Eminence eat with us, and when we had returned him all due thanks, we set forward towards the Castle of Ignarica: The Marquis de Palacios, with all his Family, was there waiting for us; so that we were so obligingly received, that nothing can be added to the good Cheer and to the Pleasure, with which we were entertained for six days, either in Fishing upon the River Xarama, of in Hunting, in Walking, or in common Conversation: Every one was Emulous to appear good humoured; and one may say, that when the Spaniards go so far as to lay aside their Gravity, and know and love you, they contribute hugely to ease and recreate the Mind. They become sociable, obliging, earnest to please you, and the best Company in the World. This is what I have found in this little Journey I have made, of which I should not have given you so particular an Account; but yet I am persuaded, Dear Cousin, you desire it so, and that you set some value upon my Complaisance.  
From Madrid this 30th of August, 1679.   

LETTER XIV.  
THE Ceremony of Swearing to the Treaty of Peace concluded at Nimmiguen, between the Crawns of France and Spain, was performed here the last of August. I had a great desire to have seen what passed then; but as Women are not to be present there, so the Connestable De Castille promised to get us into the King's Chamber, as soon as he should be gone into the great Hall, Madam Gueux the Danish Ambassador's Lady, and Madam De Chais, the Envoy of Holland's Lady, were there also. We went up at a grivate Pair of Stairs, where one of the Constable's Gentlemen waited to receive us, and we tarried for some time in a very fine Closet full of Spanish Books, well bound and very diverting: There amongst others, I found the History of Don Quixot, the famous Knight of the Mancha, in which the plainness and the subtlety of the Expression, the weight and strength of Proverbs, and that which the Spaniards call El pico, that is the smartness and nicety of a Language, appeared quite otherwise, than the Translations which we have in French. I was so pleased in reading it, that I hardly thought of seeing the Ceremony: It began as soon as the Marquis De Villars came, and through a Lattice-window which was opened, we saw what past. The King placed himself at the end of the great Gilt-Hall, which is one of the most stately in the Palace; The Alcove was spread with a wonderful fine Carpet; the The Throne and the Canopy were embroidered with Pearls, Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds and other precious Stones. Cardinal Portocarrero sat in a great Chair below the Alcove, on the right hand of the Throne; the Constable of Castille sat upon a Stool; the French Ambassador was seated on the left hand of the Throne upon a Bench covered with Velvet, and the Grandees were placed near the Cardinal; when every body was seated according to their Quality, the King came in, and when he was in his Throne, the Cardinal, the Ambassador, and the Grandees set down and covered themselves. A Secretary read aloud, the Power which the most Christian King had sent to his Ambassador. After that, a little Table was brought and set before the King, with a Crucifix and a Book of the Evangelists, and whilst he held his hand upon it, the Cardinal read the Oath, by which he swore to keep the Peace with France: There were some other little Ceremonies, but I did not mind them well enough to be able to give you an Account of 'em. A little after the King returned to his Lodgings, but we were gone out of them before: We stayed in the same Closet where we stopped at first: It was so near his Chamber, that we heard him say, that he was never so hot, and that he would put off his Collar: And indeed, the Sun does shine very hot in this Country: At my first coming hither, I was afflicted with a strange Megrim, and could not imagine the cause of it; but my Kinswoman told me 'twas because I wore too much upon my Head, and that if I did not take care I might lose my sight so; I immediately threw off my Bonnets and my Cornets, and since that time I have never had any pain in my Head. For my part, I cannot believe that there is in any part of the World more serene Air than there's here: It is so pure, that you cannot perceive so much as one Cloud; and it is affirmed to me, that even the Wether here in Winter, is like the finest Wether in any other Country: That which is most dangerous here is, a certain Wind De Galiegue, which blows off the Mountains of the Mountains Gallicia: It is not violent, but 'tis so piercing, that it reaches the very Bones, and sometimes causes a Lameness in a Leg or an Arm, and often in half the Body, which lasts for one's life: It is more frequent in Summer than in Winter. Strangers take it for the Western Briezes, and are ravished when they feel it, but experience convinces them of its Malignity. The Seasons in Spain are much more convenient and pleasant than either in France, England, Holland, or Germany; For hot to reckon that purity of Air, which cannot be imagined so fine as 'tis from the Month of September to the Month of June, it is not so cold, but one can make a shift without fire; and this is the reason, why there's no Chimneys in any of their Apartments, and that they make use only of Chafindishes. But 'tis a great Happiness that Wood being so scarce as 'tis in this Country, they have no occasion for't; It never freezes thicker than the thickness of two Crowns, and there falls little Snow. But the adjacent Mountains furnish Madrid with it all the Year round: The Months of June, July and August, are indeed excessive hot.  
I was lately in a Company where all the Ladies were sadly frighted: One of 'em said, that she had received a Letter from Barcelona, which advised, that a Bell there, which was only rung upon some public Calamity, or upon some occasion of the highest Consequence, had all alone rung several times: This Lady came from Barcelona, and she assured me, that whenever any Misfortune and Misery is to befall Spain, or that any of the House of Austria is to die, this Bell rings; that for a quarter of an hour together the Clapper of the Bell moves with a strange quickness, and strikes in turning round: I would not believe it, neither do I yet: But all the Company confirmed what she said: If it is a Lie, there were above twenty that conspired with her in it. They began to think upon what, and on whom this unhappiness which by this sign is foretold was to fall; and as they are very Superstitious, the beautiful Marchioness De Liche, increased their fears, by telling them, that Don John was very sick.  
In their deep Mourning, they are attired like Fools, but chief on the first days; for the Footmen as well as the Masters have long Cloaks trailing, and instead of Hats, they wear a very high Pasteboard Cap covered with Crape; their Horses are all in black Trappings, and Houssings which cover their Heads and all their Bodies: Nothing looks uglier; their Coaches are so ill covered, that the Cloth which covers the Roof, hangs almost down to the Boots: No body that sees this doleful Equipage but would think, that some Corpse is a carrying to be buried; the People of Quality wear their Cloaks of black Bays, very thin and rotten, the least thing tears it in pieces: And that Mourning is most graceful, that is most ragged and tattered. I have seen some Cavelleroes which tore their  on purpose; and I assure you, that through some of their , you may see their Skin as ugly as 'tis to look on: For though their Children when they are young, are as white as Alabaster, and so pretty, that you would take them for Angels, yet it must be granted, that as they grow bigger, they altar very strangely; the heat of the Sun roasts them, the Air tans them, and 'tis easy to know a Spaniard from any other Nation: Their Features are nevertheless regular, but still there wants methinks our Air and Mien as well as our Skin and Complexion.  
All the Scholars wear long Robes, with a little Border of Linen about their Necks instead of a Collar; they are habitted very like the Jesuits; there's of 'em above thirty Years old; they are known to be Students yet by their Habits.  
I fancy this City to look like a great Coup, in which they feed Poultry: For really, from the Level of the Street to the fourth Story, one can see nothing but Lattices whose holes are very small; and their very Balconies have 'em: There's always to be seen some of the poor confined Women standing behind them, to look upon Passengers, and when they dare, they open them, and with great delight show themselves; there's not a Night passes without four or five hundred Consorts of Music, in several parts of the Town; it's true they are at a moderate rate, and it is sufficient if a Gallant has only his Guittar or his Harp, and sometimes both joined with a Voice hoarse enough to awake the most drowsy body, and afford 'em the pleasure of a Queen: If either they do not understand what is most excellent, or cannot obtain it, they are content with what they can get: I never saw any Virginals or Theorba's here.  
In every Street, and at every corner House, there's an Image or Statue of our Lady dressed after the Fashion of the Country; with a Pair of Beads in her Hands, and either a great Wax Candle or a Lamp burning before her: I have seen three or four in my Kinswoman's Stable, with other pieces of Devotion; for you must know, that every Groom will have his Oratory as well as his Master, though perhaps neither one nor tother often pray there. When one Lady goes to visit another, if it be in the Night, four Pages comes to receive her with great Flamboys of white Wax, and in the same manner conduct her out again, and while she's going into her Chair, they commonly kneel upon one Knee: This is something more splendid, than the small Wax Candles enclosed in Links which are used in France.  
Here are Houses on purpose for Women of lewd Lives, like the Madelonnettes at Paris: They use them very severely, and there is not a day passes that they are not whipped several times; in a certain time they are released, but come out worse than they went in, what they suffered making them not a bit the better. They live almost altogether in a particular part of the Town, where virtuous Women never go, but if by chance any one does go that way, they run and pursue after her, as if she was their Enemy; and if it happens that they are the strongest, she is sure to be cruelly used; and for the Cavalleroes, they run the Risque of being torn in pieces as oft as they pass that way; that is to say, who shall have 'em: One takes him by the Arm, another by the Legs, and a third by the Head, and if he grows angry, they altogether fall upon him and rob him, and even strip him of his . My Kinswoman has a Page who was ignorant of the Tricks of these wretched Wenches, and went innocently through their Quarters, but they stripped him as naked as common Thiefs in a Wood could have done; and yet a Man must be content with this Treatment, For to whom shall he go for Restitution?  
The Bell of Barcelona hath been but too true in its Prognostics, for Don John was the first of this Month brought down so very low with his sickness, that the Physicians despaired of him, and he was advised to prepare himself for Death: He received the News with so much Tranquillity and Resignation, as very much confirmed the Belief that several Persons had before entertained, that he had taken some private disgust, which made him rather wish to die than live: The King came every moment into his Chamber, and spent several hours at his Bedside, notwithstanding his earnest Prayers that he would not so expose himself to a Fever: He received the Blessed Viaticum, made his Will, and writ a Letter to a Lady whose name I could not learn: He commanded Don Antonio Ortis his chief Secretary to carry it with a little Box locked, which I saw; it was made of China Wood, and light enough to make one think there was in't nothing but Letters and perhaps some Jewels; while he was so dangerously sick a Courier arrived with the News of the King's Marriage with Mademoiselle; the Joy of which did not only fill the Palace, but all the City showed Expressions of it, for there were over the whole Town Artificial Fireworks and Illuminations for three Days together: The King could not contain himself, but run into Don John's Chamber, and although he was very drowsy and heavy to sleep, and wanted rest, yet he awaked him to tell him that the Queen would quickly be here, and entreated him to think of nothing but being well again, that he might assist at her reception. Ah! Sire, answered the Prince to him, I shall never have that Satisfaction, I should be content to die, if I had had the Honour to have seen her once: The King fell a weeping, and told him, That seeing him in that Condition, was the only thing that disturbed his Happiness. There was to have been a Bull-Feast, but the Prince's sickness has caused it to be put off, and the King would not have suffered any Fireworks in the Palace-Court, had not Don John, notwithstanding he had a violent pain in his Head, begged him to permit them. In fine, the 17th of this Month he died extremely regretted by some, and as little by others. This is the fate both of Princes and Favourites, as well as of Persons that move in an ordinary Sphere; and as his Credit was already declining, and the Courtiers now thought of nothing else but the Queen-Mother's Return, and the Arrival of the new Queen, so it is a mighty strange thing to observe with what indifference the Sickness and Death of Don John was taken; they did not so much as talk on him the very next day; It seemed as if he had never been in the World. Alas! Dear Cousin, does not this deserve a little to be reflected on? He governed all the Kingdoms of the King of Spain, his very name struck Terror, he caused the Queen-Mother to be banished; he drove away Father Nitard, and Valenuela, who were both Favourites, he had for the most part a greater Court than the King: And yet four and twenty hours after he was dead, I believe I saw in different places fifty Persons of the highest Quality, which did not so much as speak one word of this poor Prince, notwithstanding divers of them had very great Obligations to him: And yet after all, he had very great personal Qualifications and Virtues: He was of a middle Stature, and a well shaped body, his Features were regular, his Eyes black and lively, he had black Hair, a great deal of it, and very long: He was well bred, of a great Wit and Judgement, very generous, brave and beneficent, and had a Capacity for the highest Affairs. He was not ignorant of any thing that was suitable to his Birth, nor of any of the Arts and Sciences. He both spoke and writ very well five several Languages, and understood more: He was perfectly well read in History; he could both make and play upon any Instrument as well as the best Master. He understood how to turn several things; he could forge Arms, and he delighted much in the Mathematics; but being called to the management of the Government, he was obliged to take his Thoughts off all these Exercises. The face of things changed in a moment, his Eyes were scarce closed, before the King (moved only by his own kind and easy Nature for the Queen his Mother) run to Tolleda to see her, and to entreat her to return; she consented to it with all the Joy she had to see the King. They wept not a little, while they embraced each other, and we saw 'em come back together. All the Persons of Quality went to meet their Majesties, and the People showed abundance of Joy. I should enlarge a great deal more upon this return, did I not intent to be very particular in the Memoirs I am writing.  
Don John laid three days in his Bed of State, and in the same  which he had made to go meet the young Queen; after that he was carried to the Escurial: The Funeral had nothing of Greatness; the Officers of his House, with a very few Friends accompanied him: He was laid in the little Vault near the Pantheon, which is reserved solely for the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Blood; for there are none buried in the Pantheon, you must know, but Kings, and those Queens that have had Children; those that have had none, are buried in that particular Vault. In a few days we are to go to the Escurial, which will be when the King goes there; but he is so taken up with his young Queen, that he can think of nothing but going towards the Frontiers to meet her. In every place where I come, they are continually ringing it aloud in my Ears, that she'll quickly be Queen of two ●●d twenty Kingdoms. In all likelihood there's eleven of them in the Indies; for I only know those of the old and new Castille, Arragon, Valentia, Navarre, Murcia, Grenada, Andalousia, Gallicia, Leon, and the Isles Majorques. In these Places there are some parts of them admirable, upon which it seems as if Heaven had a mind to spread abroad its most benign Influences. There are others again so barren, that there is neither Corn, Herbs, Vines, Fruit, Meadows, nor Springs; and of these one may say, there's more than of the others. But generally speaking, the Air there is good and wholesome. In certain parts the Heats are excessive, and in others the Cold and the Winds are insupportable, although 'tis in the same Season. There are a great many Rivers, but that which is pretty singular, is, that the biggest of them is not Navigable; particularly those of Tagus, Guadiana, Minchio, Duero, Guadalguiver, and that of Ebre; for either because of the Rocks, the falls of Water, the Gulfs, or the Turn, Vessels cannot pass upon them, and this is one of the greatest Difficulties of Trade, and which most of all hinders those things from coming to Cities which there's need of; for if there was an easy Communication between them, those Places and Towns that want a great many Wares and Goods, might be supplied from those that abound, and so every body might be furnished with necessary things at a reasonable price; whereas the Charges by Land-carriage being so high, one must want divers Conveniences, unless you are in a Condition to pay three times more for a thing than 'tis worth.  
Amongst the several Cities which belong to the King of Spain, these are esteemed, either for Beauty or Riches, viz. Madrid, Sevill, Grenada, Valentia, Sarragousa, Tolleda, Vailladolid, Cordova, Salamancha, Cadiz, Naples, Milan, Messina, Palermo, Cagliari, Bruxelles, Antwerp, Gand, and Mons. There are a great many others which nevertheless are very considerable; and several of the Towns are as big as Cities; but there are not in them those multitudes of People, which are both the Riches and Strength of a King. And there are divers Reasons to be given why there is this defect. First, When King Ferdinand drove away the Moors out of Spain, and established the Inquisition, what through the Punishments they inflicted upon some Jews, and the banishing of others, there died and went out of the Kingdom in a little while, above nine hundred thousand Persons; besides, the Indies draw away abundance; the Unfortunate go there to enrich themselves, and when they have done so, they remain to enjoy the fruit of their Labour, and the Pleasures of the Country. Again, Soldiers are raised in Spain, and sent away to Garrison other Cities under the obedience ●f the King; these Soldiers marry and settle in the Places where they happen to be, and never return to those from whence they came. Add to this, that the Spanish Woman bear but few Children; if they have three 'tis reckoned abundance: and Strangers do not come to inhabit there, as in other parts of the World, because they are not loved there, and the Spaniards are naturally recatadoes, that is singular, and reserved to themselves, and will not be communicative and open with other Nations, which they either envy or scorn: And thus having examined into all those means which help to depopulate the Country under his Catholic Majesty, one may rather wonder that there are so many People remaining.  
There grows but little Corn in Castille, it is brought from Sicily, France and Flanders; and indeed, how should it grow, unless the Earth would produce it of itself, as the Land of Promise did? The Spaniards are too idle to take pains to Till and improve it; for being the meanest Peasant is persuaded that he is Hidalgo, that is to say, a Gentleman, that in every little Family there's an Apocryphal History, composed within an hundred Years, which he leaves to the Children and Nephews of a Village as an Inheritance, in which fabulous History they are all made to descend from ancient Chivalry, whose Ancestors have done wonderful things; reciting that their Great Grandfathers, Don Pedro, and Don John, performed such and such Services to the Crown. I say, they having taking up these vain Conceits of themselves, no wonder if they will neither derogate from the Gravidad, nor Decendentia. At this rate do they talk, and they will more willingly endure Hunger, and all Severities of Life, than work (say they) like Mercinaries, which belongs only to Slaves. And thus Pride seconded by Sloth, hinder the most part of them to sow their Land, unless some Strangers come and help them to till their Ground, which by a special direction and guidance of Providence always happens; Strangers that are more laborious and worldly minded, being moved thither by the gain they find; so that you shall have a sorry Peasant sitting in his Chair reading of a mouldy Romance, whilst these Strangers are working for him, in order to carry away his Money.  
There's no Oats to be seen, Hay is scarce, their Horses and Mules eat Barley in the Straw chopped small. The Hills and Mountains in these Kingdoms I speak of, are of such a prodigious height and length, that I do not believe there's the like in any other part of the World; one meets with some of an hundred Leagues in length, which join one to another in a continued Chain, and which without Hyperbole, are higher than the Clouds, they are called Sierras, amongst which are reckoned the Mountains of Pyrenea, Granada, Astura, Alcantara, Morena, Tolleda, Dova, Molina and Albanera. These Hills render the way so very difficult, that no Wagons can pass, which obliges them to carry all upon Mules, who are so sure footed, that in two hundred Leagues continual travelling amongst Rocks, and great Flint Stones, they will not so much as once stumble.  
I have been showed some of the Patents the King Grants, I never read so many Titles, I'll set 'em down here. He calls himself King of Spain, Castelle, Leon, Navarre, Arragon, Grenada, Tolleda, Valentia, Gallicia, Sevile, Murcia, Jaen, Jerusalem, Naples, Sicily, Majorque, Minorque and Sardignia, the East and West Indies, the Isles and Terra Forma of the great Ocean, Arch Duke of Austria, Duke of Burgundia, Brabant, Luxemburgh, Guelderland, Milan, Count of Hasburgh, Flanders, Tirol and Barcelona, Lord of Biscay and Molina, Marquis of the Holy Empire, Lord of Friezland, Salines, Vtrecht, Malines, Overissel and Groningen; and Grand Signior of Asia and Africa. I have been told, that Francis I. laughed at these, when he recrived a Letter from Charles V stuffed with such arrogant Titles, and in his Answer gave himself not other Title than Citizen of Paris, and Lord of Gentilis.  
They do not trouble their Heads to study much here, that little they do know bears them out, for with the help of their Wit and Grave looks, they seldom betray their ignorance by being at a loss about any matters; when they speak, they always seem to know more than they do; and when they are silent, you would think 'em wise enough to resolve the most knotty Questions. Nevertheless there are some famous Universities in Spain, amongst which they reckon, Saragossa, Barcelona, Salamanca, Alcala, Santiago, Grenada, Sevill, Coimbra, Terragona, Evora, Lisbon, Madrid, Murcia, Majorque, Tolleda, Lerida, Valantia and Occa: There are but few famous Preachers; here and there you'll meet with some that are Pathetical: But indeed, let these Sermons be good or bad, the Spaniards that hear 'em will perpetually beat their breasts with an Extraordinary fervour, and even disturb the Preacher with the grievous Cry which their troubled Consciences make them utter. I am willing to believe that there are a few that have some compunction, but in my Conscience, I doubt far less than they make show of: They never leave off their Swords, either when they go to Confession or the Sacrament; they say, they wear 'em to defend Religion; and in the Morning before they put them on, they kiss 'em and make the sign of the Cross with them; they pay an excessive Devotion to the Blessed Virgin, and put an extraordinary confidence in her; there's hardly any Man that does not wear a Scapular or some embroidered Image that hath touched some of those that are held to be miraculous; and though otherwise they do not lead lives very regular, yet they will not forbear praying to her with a trust, that 'tis she that must protect and save 'em from the greatest Evils; they are very charitable, not only upon the account of the Merits by Alms Deeds, but also by a natural Inclination they have to give, and a real pain they endure if either through Poverty, or for any other reason they are forced to refuse any thing that is asked them; they have also another good Quality, which is never to forsake their Friend in Sickness; their care and their concern is far greater in such a time, when doubtless the Presence as well as the Assistance of a Friend is most wanted: So that Persons that do not see one another four times in a Year, yet are constant in their visit three or four time every day; when one is under any affliction, and that they can become useful to each other: But as soon as they are well, they resume the same way of living they used before they were sick.  
Don Frederick de Cardonna, of whom I now talk to ye, Dear Cousin, as if he and you were well acquainted, is returned; He hath brought me a Letter from the fair Marchioness De los Rios, who without doubt, is still one of the prettiest Women in the World, and who is not weary of her retirement, I also by him heard from the Archbishop of Burgos, whose Merits are uncommon; and he added, that he came back in the company of a Spanish Gentleman, who had told him some very wonder-things; amongst others, that every Spaniard who is born on Good Friday, whenever they go by or through any Churchyard, in which there has been any body buried that was murdered, or if they pass through any place where a Murder has been committed, tlthô the Man who was killed has been taken away, yet for all that he appears to 'em all bloody, and in the same manner and condition he happened to be in when he was murdered, and this too, whether they knew one another or no: This certainly is a very unpleasant thing to those it happens; but in requital they can cure the Plague with breathing upon the Party, and do not receive the Infection, althô they be with those that have the Plague upon them: Many People, said he, wondered that Philip the iv held his head so high, and staired up with his eyes, the reason was, he was born on Good Friday, and when he was very young he had several Apparitions of of these Persons that had been murdered; so that with the fright of 'em he had got a custom (very seldom) to hold down his head: But, said I to Don Frederick, Did he talk seriously, and as if these things were allowed of every body without any doubt. And just at I was saying, that it would be worth while to inquire of some creditable Person about these Matters; Don Ferdinand de Tolleda came into my Chamber, and so he asked him, and he assured me, that he had frequently heard folks talk thus of these Matters, but yet he would not answer for the Truth. It is also said, continued he, that there are a certain People which can kill a mad Dod with breathing upon him, and that they have a Power to remain in the Fire without being burnt; and yet I could never see any of 'em that cared to trust themselves there: But they give this reason, that though they could safely do it, yet there would be something of Vanity in it, by such peculiar Favours from Heaven to distinguish themselves from other Men; and for my part, said I laughing, I am of Opinion these Men have more Prudence than Humility: They are afraid (as 'tis but reasonable) of the biting of the Dog, and the heat of the Furnace. I am altogher of, your mind, Madam, replied Don Frederick, I can give little Faith to things above nature.  
I do not pretend to make you believe it, says Don Fernand, though I must tell ye, I do not find any thing in this Matter more extraordinary than in a thousand Prodigies which we every day see. Do ye think, for instance, that you ought less to wonder at that Lake which is near Guadalajara in Andalousia, which foretells approaching Tempest, by most horrid bellowing and roaring, that is heard above twenty thousand Paces distance? and what do ye say of that other Lake which is found upon the very top of the Mountain Clavio, in the Comte of Roussillon near to Perpignan? It is extreme deep; there's in't Fishes, both for bigness and shape that are monstrous; when a Stone is thrown into it, there are Vapours seen to come out with a mighty noise, and to ascend into the Air, and there convert into the Clouds, which produce most terrible Storms, accompanied with Thunder, Lightning and Hail. Is it not likewise true, continued he, in addressing himself to Don Frederick, that near the Castle of Gracimanos, in a Cavern which is called Judea, not far from the Bridge Talayredas', there's a Spring whose Water freezes as it drops, and grows so hard, that it becomes a perfect Stone, which cannot easily be broken, and with which in that Country they build fine Houses? You have a good Stock of Examples, said Don Frederick, but if you will, I'll furnish ye with some others for your purpose. Do ye remember the Mountain of Monrayo in Arragon; If the sheep feed upon't before the sun rise they die, but if they are sick, and feed there after the Sun is up they are cured. I must not forget neither the Spring in the Isle of Cadiz, which is dry when 'tis high Water, and runs when the Tide ebbs: You shall not be the only Person, said I, in interrupting him, that shall second Don Fernand in these sorts of Relations, I must tell him, that in the same Isle of Cadiz, there's a certain Plant which withers upon the first appearance of the Sun, and grows green again as soon as Night comes. Ah! pretty Plant, cries Don Fernand in Laughing, Well, I have enough now to be revenged for all the sport you have made at my Stories for this Hour together; I declare open War against you about this Plant, and if you do not send for one hither, I know what I'll believe: The facetious Humour of this Cavallero made us very pleasantly pass the Evening: but we were interrupted by my Kinswoman, who returned out of the City, where she had spent some part of the day at her Lawyers, who was at the point of Death; he is very old, and a very knowing Man in his Profession: She told us, that all his Children stood round his Bed, and that the only thing which he recommended to 'em, was always to preserve a good stock of Gravity; and after he had blest them, says he to 'em, what greater good can I now wish you, my dear Chidrens, than to lead your whole Lives at Madrid, and never to quit this Earthly Paradise, but for the Heavenly: This may show continued she, the strange Prepossession the Spaniards have for Madrid, and the Happiness they enjoy in that Court: For my part, said I, in interrupting her, I am persuaded there's abundance of Vanity in that fondness that they express for their own Nation, for certainly they have too much Sense not to know, that there are many other Countries far more agreeable: It is not true, said I, in addressing myself to Don Fernand, that though you will not say as I say, that you have the same thoughts? what my thoughts are, said he in smiling, is no rule for other folks; I must tell ye, that since my return, I am upbraided by every body with being no longer a Spaniard: But certain it is, that People being so bewitched with the Delights and Charms of Madrid, and not having power to forsake it in any season of the Year, no body has thought of building pretty Houses in the Country whither they might sometimes retire; so that all adjacent parts about the City, which should be filled with delicious Gardens and splendid Seats look like so many little Deserts, and this is the reason also, why the City in Summer as well as in Winter, is equally crowded with People: Hereupon my Kinswoman said, she would have me to the Escurial, and that it was agreed on by the Marchionesses of Palacios and La Rosa, to go two days hence; the Lady your Mother, added she, in speaking to Don Fernand designs you to make one, and I indeed to secure Don Frederick, for another, they both declared, that with abundance of Joy, they would go this little Journey; and indeed, the next day we went to kiss Queen Mother's hand, and to know her commands for the Escurial: for you must know, 'tis the Custom, when one is to go out of Madrid, first to pay their respects to the Queen. But we had not seen her since her Return. she looked merrier than she did at Tolleda, and told us, she did not think of coming back so soon to Madrid, and that now it seemed, as if she had never been out of it. There was brought before her a Gyant-Woman that came from the Indies: as soon as she saw her, she caused her to be taken away, she was so affrighted at her. Her Ladies would make this Colossus dance, who held in each hand two She Dwarves that played upon the Castinets and the Biscay Drum, all this was ugly in the highest degree. My Kinswoman observed in the Queen Mother's Apartment; things which had been Don John's amongst others an admirable Pendulum Clock, all set with Diamonds, he made her in part, his Heir, in all likelihood 'twas to testify his regret for having troubled and vexed her.  
The Journey to the Escurial was performed with all imaginable Satisfaction, the desire of entertaining you with it, hindered me from sending you the Letter I begun before I went thither; the same Ladies that went to Arranjus and Tolleda, were very glad to embrace the Occasion of taking the Air a little in so fine a Season; and we went first to the Pardo, which is a Royal House, the Building like the rest in Spain is handsome enough, that is, it consists of a square of foul several Apartments separated by Galleries of Communication, which are supported with Pillars; the Forniture of it, is not indeed stately, but there are good Pictures, amongst others, those of the Kings of Spain, in odd sorts of Dresses.  
We were showed a little Closet, which the late King used to call his Beloved, because in it he was wont sometimes to entertain himself with his Mistresses; this Prince who was seemingly so could and grave, that he was hardly ever seen to laugh, was really the most amorous and the pleasantest of Men. There is a Garden well enough kept, and a Park of a considerable extent, whither the King frequently goes to hunt; we were afterwards at a Convent of the Capuchins, which stands on the top of a Hill; this is a Place of great Devotion, because of a Crucifix which it seems was taken from the true Cross, and which often works Miracles: After we had said our Prayers there, we descended on the other side of the Hill, to a certain Hermitage where there was a Recluse, that would neither see us, nor speak to us; but he threw a Ticket to us through his Grate, in which we found it writ, that he would recommend us to God. We were all extreme weary, for we were forced to walk afoot up the Hill, and it was very hot Wether; we perceived in the bottom of the Hill a very little Cottage by the side of a Brook, which runs amongst Willow Trees; we steered our Course that way, and when we were yet a great way off, we could see a Man and a Woman very well dressed, rise up nimbly from the foot of a Tree where they were set, and run into that Cottage and shut the Door as hastily as if they had taken us for thiefs; but doubtless it was fear of being known, which made them avoid us; we went to the Place they had left; being set on the Grass, we fell to eating some Fruit we brought with us; we were so nigh this little House, that they could easily see through their Windows what we were doing; there came out a very pretty Country Lass, and with a Sea-Rush Basket addressed herself to us, and kneeling, begged some of the Fruit of our Collation for a Big-bellyed Woman, that would die if we refused her. Immediately we sent her some of the fairest, and quickly after the same young Girl came again with a Gold Snuff-box, and told us the Senora of the Casita, that is the Lady of the little House, entreated us to accept of some Snuff for an Acknowledgement of the Favour we had done her. It is the Fashion here to present Snuff when they have a mind to express their Friendship; we stayed so long by the Waterside, that we resolved to go no further that the Carcuela, which is another of the King's Houses, but not so handsome as the Pardo, and so neglected, that there's nothing worth commending, but the Waters; we were ill enough lodged there, though we laid in the very same Beds his Majesty did; and we were very lucky in taking along with us all Necessaries for Supper. After that we went into the Gardens, which are in bad Order, the Fountains run Day and Night, the Water there is so good and in such plenty, that for as little almost as one would desire, it might be made as pleasant a Dwelling as any is in the World. But 'tis not the Custom in this Country, from the King to private Persons, to keep several Country Houses in good Repair, they let them go to ruin, for want of some very small Reparations. Our Beds were so ill, that we were not loath to leave them early the next Morning to go to the Escurial. We went by Monareco, where the Woods begin, and a little further is the Park which belongs to the Convent of the Escurial: For in effect it is one which Philip the II. built among the Mountains, that so he might the more easily get the Stone which he needed, of which there is such a prodigious Quantity, that without seeing it, one cannot conceive it, and certainly it is one of the vastest Buildings we have in Europe: We went up to it through a very long Walk of Elm Trees, which are planted in four Rows, the great Gate is stately adorned with divers Marble Pillars raised one upon another, till they reach up to the Statue of St. Laurence which stands on the top; the King's Arms are cut upon a certain Stone which is called the Thunder-Stone, and is brought from Arabia, the cutting of which cost threescore thousand Crowns. It is easy to believe, that having been at so considerable a Charge for a thing so little useful, they would not spare any Cost for others which might be necessary and contribute to the Beauty of the Place. It is a great Square Pile of Building; but beyond the Square there runs out a Length, which contains the Buildings of the Entrance, and are contrived to represent the Form of the Gridiron on which St. Laurence (who is the Patron of the Monastery) suffered Martyrdom. It is built according to the Doric Order, and very plain; the Square is divided in the middle, and one of those Divisions which looks upon the Order, opens itself both ways into four other lesser Squares, which are four Cloisters built also according to the Doric Order, and who sees one of them, sees all the rest; the Building has nothing in it, either as to its Design or Architecture, that is extraordinary; that which is to be admired, is the Vastness of it, being Three hundred and eighty Paces in the Square; for besides those four Cloisters I have mentioned, the other Division of the Square, subdivided into two, maketh two other Piles of Building, one of which is, the King's Quarters, and the other is the College; for there are in it abundance of Pensioners, whom the King maintains to study: The Friars that live in it are Hieronomites; this Order is unknown in France, and it is abolished in Italy, because a certain Hieronimite Friar attempted at Milan the Life of St. Charles Borromeo: But he did not hurt him, though he shot at him, and the Bullets pierced his Pontifical Habit; but nevertheless this Order is here in great Esteem; there are three hundred Monks in the Convent of the Escurial; they live much after the same way of the Carthusians, they speak little, and pray much, and Women never come into their Church, but besides they ought to study and preach.  
But there's another thing yet, which makes this Building considerable, and that is, the nature of the Stone of which it is built. It was taken out of the neighbouring Quarries; it is of a grayish colour; the sharpest Air and severest Wether makes no impression on't, it does not soil or grow dirty, but constantly preserves that colour it had when it was taken up. Philip II. was two and twenty years in building it, he enjoyed it thirteen, and then died in't. This Structure cost him six Millions of Gold. Philip iv added the Pantheon to it, that is to say a Sepulchre, like the Pantheon at Rome, contrived under the great Altar of the Church, all of Marble, Jasper and Porphiry, in which there are six and twenty most stately Tombs inchased in the Walls; and one goes down into it by a pair of Stairs all of Jasper. I fancied myself descending into some of those enchanted places which our Romances and Books of Chivalry talk of. The Tabernacle, the Architecture of the Altar, the steps by which one ascends to it, the Pyx or Box in which the Host is kept, and made all of one single Agate, are so many Wonders. The Riches that are there, in precious Stones and Gold, is incredible. One single Cupboard of Relics (for there are four in the four Chapels of the Church) infinitely exceeds the Treasure of St. Mark's at Venice. The Ornaments of the Church are embroidered with Pearls and precious Stones; and so are the Chalices and Vessels of precious Stones. The Candlesticks and the Lamps are of pure Gold. There are forty little Chapels, and as many Altars, upon which are put every day forty several  and Attires. The forepart of the great Altar is composed of four Ranks of Jasper Pillars, and one goes up to the Altar by seventeen Steps of Porphiry Stone. The Tabernacle is beautified with several Pillars of Agate, and divers curious Figures of Metal and Crystal. One can see nothing about the Tabernacle but Gold, Azure Stone, and other Stones so transparent, that through them the Sacrament (which is kept in an Agate Vessel) is easily perceived. This Tabernacle is esteemed at a Million of Crowns. There are eight pair of Organs, the Chairs or Seats in the Choir are made of rare Wood, which comes from the Indies, curiously wrought after the pattern of those of St. Dominick at Boulogne. The Cloisters of the Monastery are extreme fine; in the middle there's a Flower Garden, and a Chapel which opens four ways, whose Roof is supported with Porphiry Pillars, between which there are Niches, in which are placed the four Evangelists with an Angel, and the several Creatures made of white Marble bigger than Nature, who throw out Torrents of Water into Marble Basins. The Chapel is arched with curious Architecture, and paved with black and white Marble. There are divers Pictures of an inestimable value, and in the Chapter-Room, which is very large, there is besides most excellent Pictures, two Bas-reliefs all of Agat, two foot and a half long, which cannot be valued. As to the Church, it has nothing extraordinary in its Structure; it is bigger than that of the Jesuits in St. Anthony's Street at Paris, but of the same form, except that like their House, it is of the Doric Order. Bramanto the famous Italian Architect, drew the Model and Design of it. The King and Queen's Apartments are not stately; but Philip II. intended this only for a House of Prayer and Retirement, the Church and the Library were the things he took most care to adorn. Titian the famous Painter, and divers others besides, have exhausted all their Art and Skill in curiously painting the Galleries of the Library, which indeed are admirable, not only for the excellent Painting, but for a hundred thousand Volumes that are there, without reckoning the Original Manuscripts of several Fathers and Doctors of the Church, which are delicately bound and gilded. You'll easily guests at the bigness of the Escurial, when I have told you that there are in it, seventeen Cloisters, two and twenty Courts, eleven thousand Windows, above eight hundred Pillars, and an infinite number of Parlours, Halls and Chambers. A little after the Death of Philip II. there was taken from the Friars of the Escurial, a certain Estate in Lands (called Campillo) which the late King had given them; and was worth eighteen thousand Crowns per Annum, and this was done by virtue of a Clause in his Will, by which he revoked all the immense Donations, which is his Life time he had given.  
The Duke of Bragance being at Court in King Philip the Second time, he had a mind they should go with him to the Escurial, that he might see that stately Pile of Building. And as he that had the care of showing it to him, told him, It was built in performance of a Vow which Philip II. made at the Battle of St. Quintin, the Duke replied, He that made so great a Vow, must needs have a great Terror upon him. And now in mentioning this King, I remember to have heard, that Charles V recommended to him the preservation of the three Keys of Spain. These were, the Straights-mouth, Flushing in Zealand, and Cadiz. The Turks or Moors have the first, the Dutch the second, and the English had the last, but the King of Spain soon recovered it from them.  
The Escurial is built upon a descent of some Rocks in a desert and barren Place, and environed with Hills; the Village stands below it, and has but few Houses in't; it's in a manner always cold Wether there. The extent of the Gardens and the Park is a prodigious thing to see, in which one meets with Woods, Plains, and a vast House in the midst, in which the Keeper's lodge; it abounds with all sorts of Deer and Fowl.  
After having seen a Place which so highly deserves our admiration, we all left it; and as we had visited the Royal Houses of Pardo and Carcuela, we returned over the Mountains, which is a nearer way, but very troublesome. We came by Colmenar, and coasting along the little River of Guadarama, we passed through Rozas and Aravac●, and arrived at Madrid, where we learned that the Queen's Household were just going away to meet her upon the Frontier. We immediately went to the Palace to bid adieu to the Duchess de Terra Nova, and the other Ladies. The King had made them all be mounted, that he might see after what manner they would be on the day of her Entry; for this reason all the Gardens, and Doors every way were kept close shut and guarded, and no Man was to enter there. The young Court Ladies looked well enough, but good God what figures were the Duchess de Terra Nova, and Donna Maria d' Alarcon, who were the Governantes of the Queen's Maids; they rid every one upon a Mule shod with Silver, and all friz with a large housing of black Velvet, like that the Physicians in Paris ride with upon their Horses. These Ladies, dressed like Widows, (which I have already described to you) very old and ugly, with morose and imperious Looks, wore broad Hats, tied with strings under their Chins; and twenty Gentlemen which walked a foot by their sides, held them up, lest they should fall. They would never have suffered these Men to have touched them in that manner, had not they feared breaking their Necks. For you must know, dear Cousin, that though every Lady has two Gentlemen Ushers, and that they go with them where ever they go, yet they never give them their Hand. They walk by their sides, and present to them their Elbows wrapped in their Cloaks, which makes their Arms look monstrous thick. The Ladies do not come near them; but that which is yet more strange, if the Queen in walking should happen to fall, unless her Ladies were near her to help her up, though there were an hundred Gentlemen there, she must be pleased, either to rise by herself, or lie all day upon the Ground, for none dare take her up.  
We spent part of the Afternoon in looking at these Ladies; the Equipage they had was indeed very rich, but very poorly and dully contrived. The Duchess of Terra Nova had alone, six Litters of Velvet of various colours, and all embroidered, and forty Mules, whose houssings were as costly as ever I saw any. You will not hear from me again, dear Cousin, before the Queen is come hither. While the King is gone to meet her, and the whole Court is absent, my Kinswoman will go into Andalousia, about some business she has there. I might send you a short Relation of our little Journey, if I could be assured it would please you. I most hearty embrace you.  
From Madrid this 30th of September, 1679.   

LETTER XV.  
THE whole Court is returned, and in my Memoirs you'll find, dear Cousin, the particulars of the Queen's Journey. The King and she were both together in one Coach, and the Curtains being all open, I saw her at her arrival here: She was dressed after the Spanish way, and I did not think that she looked less handsome in this, than in her French Garb; but the King was dressed a-la-Schomberg, which is the Spanish habit for the Country, and 'tis almost like the French. I have heard it told, how strangely the Queen was surprised the first time she had the Honour to see him; he had on a close bodied Coat of grey Barragon, very short and wide, Velvet Breeches, Stockings of Pelo, that is, raw Silk, which they work so very lose, that their Skin appears through them; this Silk is as small as a Hair, and though they be very straight, yet the King pulls them on at once, and so he'll tear sometimes twenty pair one after another. He had also a very fine Cravat, which the Queen sent him, but it was tied a little too lose: His Hair was put behind his Ears, and he wore a grey Hat. All the Journey, which was very long, they sat close to each other in a large Coach, and seldom could understand one another but by some certain signs, for the King cannot speak a word of French, and the Queen could speak but very little Spanish. Upon their arrival at Madrid, they went to sing Te Deum at our Lady d' Atocha, attended by all the Persons of Quality, and a multitude of the People, that made the Air resound with Acclamations of Joy. Afterwards their Majesties went to Buen Retiro, because the Apartments in the Palace were not yet ready, and that the Queen was not to remain there till she had made her Entry. This time must needs have been very tedious to her, for she saw no body but the Camerera Mayor and her Ladies. She's forced to lead a Life so much against her Inclinations, that she has need of all that Discretion and Sweetness of Temper she's possessed of to be able to endure it. She has not so much as the Liberty to see the French Ambassador; to be short, 'tis a perpetual Torment. All the Spanish Ladies love her dearly, and amongst themselves pity her.  
I was sometime ago at the Countess of Villambrosa's, and in a great deal of Company. The Marchioness de la Fuente came in there, and as they are extreme superstitious in this Country, so she told them, like one affrighted, that being with the Queen, who looking herself in a great Glass, and laying her hand gently upon't, it cracked from top to bottom; and that the Queen beheld it without being in the least moved, but even laughed at the Consternation that all the Ladies about here were in, telling them, it betrayed a weakness of Mind to take such notice of things and Accidents as might proceed from natural Causes. They discoursed and argued a great while upon this matter, and with deep sighs said, that their Queen would not live long. She also told us, that the Queen was much more disturbed at the incivility of the Camerera Mayor, who seeing some of her Hairs out of place on her Forehead, spit on her fingers to lay them smooth; upon which the Queen stayed her Arm, telling her in a Majestic way, that the best Essence there, was not too good, and that taking her Handkerchief, she was a great while a cleaning that part of her Hair which this piece of Antiquity had so unhandsomely wet. It is no uncommon thing here, to wet ones head all over, the better to smooth and make the Hair shine, the first time my Head was dressed after the Spanish Mode. one of my Relation's Women undertook this curious piece of work, she was no less than three hours tugging and pulling my Head, and finding that my Hair, which is naturally curling, would not comply, without saying a word to me, she dipped a great Sponge twice in a Basin of Water, and baptised me so handsomely, that I was laid up with a Cold for a Month.  
But to return to the Queen, it would draw pity from one to see how this Camerera treats her; I am well assured, that she neither suffers her to have so much as a single Hair curled, nor to come near her Chamber Windows, nor to speak to any body; and yet the King loves the Queen with all his Heart, and for the most part eats with her, and that without Ceremony; so that very often when the Maids of Honour are laying the Cloth, the King and Queen will divert themselves in helping them, one will lay the Cloth, and t'other a Napkin: The Queen has her Meat dressed after the French way, and the King his after the Spanish. He has a Woman Cook to dress all his Victuals, but the Queen endeavours to bring him to like the Ragous' that are made for her, but he cannot abide them. But now you must not imagine, that their Majesties are surrounded with their Courtiers when they are at Dinner, at the most, there's only some Ladies of the Palace, a few Menins, but a great many Male and Female Dwarves.  
The Queen made her Entry the 13th of January; after all the Passages and Avenues of the great Road which leads to Buen Retiro were stopped, and all Coaches forbidden to come that way, there was a Triumphal Arch built, and the Queen painted upon't. It was also covered with divers Garlands, and had several Emblems and other things painted; it was set in the way by which the Queen must pass to go into Madrid; on each side there was a sort of a Gallery which had places contrived in them, to show the Arms of the several Kingdoms under the Spanish Dominion, joining one to another, by certain Pillars which supported some gilt Statues, every one of which represented Crowns and Inscriptions which had relation to those Kingdoms.  
This Gallery reached to the Triumphal Gate on the great Road, which was very rich and adorned with several Statues; where likewise there were four beautiful and young Maids dressed like Nymphs waiting for the Queen, and holding in their hands Baskets of Flowers, ready to strew them on the Ground as she passed; hardly was one out of this Gate or Arch but a second appeared, and so for a great way one after another was seen. These were adorned with the King's Council, that of the Inquisition, the Council of the Indies, of Arragon, of State, of Italy, of Flanders, and other Places, under so many gilt Statues; that of Justice was higher raised than all the rest. A little further was represented the Golden Age, accompanied with the Law, Rewards, Protection and Punishments. The Temple of Faith was exhibited in a Picture, Honour and Fidelity opened the Gate, and Joy came forth to receive the new Queen. There was besides, a Picture which showed the Reception Solomon gave the Queen of Sheba, and another where Deborah was giving of Laws to her People. There were also the Statues of Ceres, Astrea, Union, Virtue, Life, Safety, Time, the Earth, Tranquillity, Peace, Greatness, Rest Themis, and Liberality. Amongst all the Paintings I took notice of, that where Aeneas is descending into Hell; Cerberus chained by the Sybile, the Elysian Fields, where Anchises showed his Son who should succeed him in his Posterity. The rest were filled with an infinite number of Hierogliphics. The Queen stopped at the third Arch, which was over against a very fine Parterre in her way; in it were falls of Water, Grottas, Fountains and white Marble Statues. Nothing could be more pleasant than this Garden: It belonged to the Friars of St. Francis of Paulo, who built it. The fourth Gate was in the middle of the Place called Del Sol; it was not less glorious than the others by the Gold, Pictures, Statues and Mottoes about it.  
The Street where the Furriers dwelled was all full of seeming Animals, though their Skins was so artificially stuffed, that any Body would have taken them for liying Tigers, Lions, Bears, and Panthers. The fifth Gate, which was that of Guadalajara had its peculiar Ornaments, and after that, the Queen passed into the Goldsmith's Street, the side of which, was set full of Angels of pure Silver, there were seen also divers Bucklers of Gold, upon which were contrived the King and Queen's Names with their Arms, in Pearls, Rubies, Diamonds, Emeralds, and other Stones so fine and rich, that the Skilful said, there was to the value of above twelve Millions. In the Placa Mayor there was an Amphitheatre set full of Statues, and adorned with Paintings. The last Gate was near that, in the middle of the first Front of the Queen Mother's Palace, was seen Apollo, all the Muses, the Picture of the King and Queen on Horseback, and divers other things which I did not mind so much to give you an Account of them. The Palace Court was surrounded with young Men and Maids, which represented all the Rivers both great and small of Spain, they were Crowned with Reeds and Water lilies, with Pots overturned, and the rest of their Attire suitable. They complimented the Queen in Latin and Spanish, there were also erected in this Court, two Castles of artificial Fireworks. All the Palace was hung with the richest Tapestry that belonged to the Crown, and there are but few Places in the World where there is finer seen, two Chariots full of Muscians went before their Majesties.  
The Magistrates of the City came out of their Public House in their Robes which were made of Brocado embroidered with Gold; they wore little Hats buttoned up with Plumes of Feathers, and were mounted upon very fine Horses, they came to present the Keys of the City to the Queen and to receive her under a Canopy. The King and the Queen Mother went in a Coach all open that the People might see them, as far as the Countess of Ognates' House, where the Queen came to them.  
Six Trumpeters in black and red Suits in company of the City Kettle Drum's mounted upon fine Horses, whose Housing were of black Velvet, marched before the Alcade of the Court, the Knights of the three Malitary Orders, namely, St. James, Calatrava, and Alcantara followed after in Cloaks all embroidered with Gold, and their Hats covered with Plumes of Feathers; after them went the Tutulados De Castille, and the Officers of the King's Household, they wore white Robes, and most of them were Grandees of Spain, their Hats were trimmed with Diamonds and Pearl, and their Magnificence appeared every way; they had most admirable Horses, every one had abundance of Liveries, and their Footman's Suits were of Gold and Silver Brocado mixed with coloured Silk, which looked very well.  
The Queen rid upon a curious Horse of Andalousia, which the Marquis De Villa Mayna, her first Gentleman Usher, led by the Reins, her  beware so richly embroidered, that one could see no Stuff, she wore a Hat trimmed with a Plume of Feathers, and the Pearl called the Peregrina, which is as big as a small Pear, and of an inestimable Value, her Hair hung lose upon her Shoulders, and upon her Forehead, her neck was a little bare and she wore a small Fardingal, she had upon her Finger the large Diamond of the King's, which is pretended to be the fairest in Europe. But the Queen's pretty Looks and her Charms shined much brighter than all the sparkling Jewels with which she was adorned; behind her and without the Canopy, went the Duchess De Terranova dressed in Duenna together with Donna Laura Maria D' Alarcon Governante of the Queen's Maids; they rid each of them upon a Mule. Immediately after them the Queen's Maids to the number of eight all covered with Diamonds and Embroidery, appeared upon very fine Horses, every one having two of the Court walking by their side; the Queen's Coaches went after them, and the Guards of the Lancilla brought up the Rear. She stopped before the Countess of Ognate's House, to salute the King and the Queen Mother; she alighted at St. Mary's, where Cardinal Portocarero Archbishop of Tolleda, waited for her, and immediately Te Deum began, as soon as it was ended, she mounted her Horse again, and rid to the Palace, where she was received by the King and Queen Mother, the King helped her off her Horse, and the Queen Mother taking her by the Hand, led her to her Apartment, where all the Ladies were waiting for her, and fell on their Knees in all Humility to kiss her Hand. While I am upon this Head of the Palace, I should tell you, Dear Cousin, that I have heard there are certain Laws or Rules established in the Palace, which have been observed there for above these hundred Years without the least Devotion, they are called the Orders or Ceremonials of the Palace; they run thus, That the Queen of Spain shall go to Bed at Ten a Clock in Summer, and nine in Winter. At the Queen's first being here, she did not consider the appointed Hour, it seemed to her Reasonable that the Rule of going to Bed, should be when one was sleepy; but it frequently happened, that as she was eating her Supper, some of her Women, without saying a Word to her, would begin to undress her Head, and others to pull off her Shoes under the Table, and so hurry her to Bed with that haste, as made her very much wonder.  
The King of Spain sleeps in one Apartment, and the Queen in another, but this loves his Queen too well to lie from her. It is thus noted in the Orders, That when the King comes out of his own Chamber in the Night to go into the Queens, He must wear his Shoes like Slippers, (for here they make none of these last,) his black Cloak upon his Shoulders instead of a Nightgown, (of which no body makes use at Madrid) his Broquel, or Bucklar (of which I have spoken in some of my Letters) fastened under his Arm, and his Bottle fastened by a String to the other: But you must not think this Bottle holds drink to quench thirst, it is for a quite contrary purpose, which you must guests. With all this Accoutrement, the King has besides a long Rapier in one Hand, and a dark Lantern in tother; and on this manner he is obliged to go all alone into the Queen's Chamber.  
There's another Order in the Ceremonial, which is, That after the King has taken a Mistress, and happens to forsake her, she must be a Nun, as I have already told you. I have heard that the late King being in Love with a Lady of the Palace, he knocked one Night softly at her Chamber Door, as she imagined it was he, so she would not open it, and only said to him through the Door, Baya, Baya, con Dios, no quiero ser Monja; that is to say, Go, go, God be with you, I have no mind to be a Nun.  
It is also set down, that the King every time he receives a Favour from his Mistress must give her four Pistols, you perceive he will not ruin his Estate thus, and that the Expense he is at for his Pleasure is very moderate. To this purpose it is publicly known, that Philip the iv the Father of the present King, having heard of the Beauty of a famous Courtesan, went to see her at her House; but being a religious Observer of the Orders, he gave her but four Pistols, she was very angry at so disproportionate a Recompense to her Merit, but dissembling her Displeasure, she dressed herself like a Cavallero and went to see the King, and after she had made herself known, and had had a most particular Audience of him, she pulled out a Purse of four hundred Pistols, and laid it up on the Table: It is thus, said she, I pay my Mistresses; so pretending that this time the King was her Mistress, seeing she came in Man's Clothes to find him out.  
By these Ceremonials, the fixed Time of the King's going to any of his Houses of Pleasure is known, whether it be to the Escurial, to Aranjues, or to Buen Retiro, so that without staying for his Orders, all his Equipage is sent away, and early in the Morning they go to awake him that he may rise and put on those  that are set down in the Orders according to the Season, and after that he steps into his great Coach, and so very contentedly goes, where several Ages past it has been agreed on.  
When the appointed time comes to return, though the King is never so well pleased where he is, yet he must go away, that he may not alter the Custom.  
It is also known, when he is to go to Confession, and to perform his Devotions, at that Time the Confessor comes, and presents himself.  
Every Courtier, and even the Ambassadors are obliged when they go into the King's Chamber to put on certain little Lawn Cuffs, which they wear quite flat upon their sleeves, there are Shops in the Guard-room, where the Lords hire them, and return them when they come out. In like manner all the Ladies are to wear Patins when they go into the Queen's presence, I think I have already told you that these are a kind of Sandals into which the Shoe is fastened, and which raises them up very high, if they should appear before the Queen without these Sandals, she would take it very ill.  
The Queens of Spain have none but Widows and Maids about them, the Palace is so full of them, that one can see nothing else through the Latices and in the Balconies. And here's one thing seems to me very singular, which is, That a Man although he be Married is allowed to declare himself the Lover or Gallant of a Lady of the Palace, and for her sake to commit all the Follies and to spend all the Money he can, without being in the least blamed for it. One shall see these Gallants in the Court, and all the Ladies in the Windows, where 'tis their daily Employment to discourse with, and entertain one another by their Fingers: For you must know that their Hands speak a Language that is perfectly intelligible; and as it might be guest at if it was always alike, and that the same Signs always meant the same things, so they agree with their Mistresses upon certain private Signs and Actions, which no Body else understands. This kind of Love is public, a Man must be of a peculiar sort of Wit and Humour dextrously to manage these Intrigues and to be accepted by the Ladies, for they are wonderful delicate and nice, they do not talk like other People. In the Palace there reigns a certain Genius and Strain of Wit, quite different from that in the City, and so peculiar, that one must learn it as they do an Art or a Trade. When the Queen goes abroad, all, or however the greatest part of the Ladies go with her; then the Gallants, who are constantly upon the Watch, go a foot by their Coach sides, that they may enjoy their Conversation. It is really good Sport to see how these poor Lovers dirty themselves, for the Streets are horrid nasty; but then, the more dirty the more gallant. When the Queen returns home late, there are carried before the Coaches where her Ladies are, forty or fifty Flamboys of white Wax; and this sometimes makes a very glorious Illumination; for there are several Coaches, and in every one divers Ladies, so that frequently, one may see a above a thousand Flamboys, besides those the Queen has.  
When the Ladies of the Palace are let Blood, the Chirurgeon takes a mighty care of the Ligature, Fillet, or any Cloth or Handkerchief upon which any of the Blood of the fair one is has fallen; for he never fails to make a rich Present of it to the Cavaliero that loves her, and this is looked upon to be a worthy Occasion for a Man to ruin himself to all intents; there have been some so extravagantly foolish, as to give the Chirurgeon the greatest part of their Plate; you must not fancy this is only a Spoon, a Fork, or a Knife, which may be the Stock of a great many we know; No, no, I assure you, this extends to the value of Three or four thousand Crowns; and this is a Custom so rooted amongst them, that a Man had rather feed upon nothing but Radishes and Leeks all the Year long, than not to perform what he is obliged to do upon these sort of Occasions.  
Few of the Ladies of the Palace leave it without being very advantageously married; there are also the Queens Menines, who are so very Young when they come to her, that she has some not above six or seven Years old; these are Children of the highest Quality, I have seen some of them more beautiful than the God of Love himself was ever painted.  
On some solemn Days, when the Ladies of the Palace go abroad, or when the Queen gives Audicnce, every Lady has the Privilege to place by her sides two Cavelleroes who put on their Hats before their Majesties, although they be not Grandees of Spain; they are called Embevecidos, that is, Drunk with Love, and so transported with their Passion, and the Pleasure of being near their Mistresses, that they are uncapable of minding any thing else, they are permitted to be covered for the same Reason that mad Men are, who understand not their Obligation to Decency and good Manners; but yet to enjoy this Liberty, they must have leave from their Ladies, otherwise they dare not presume to attempt it.  
There is no other Diversion at Court than Plays; but during the Carnaval, they empty Eggs by a little hole in the Shell, and fill them full of sweet scented Water, and then stop them up again with Wax, and when the King is at a Play, he throws these at every body, and every one in imitation of his Majesty throw them likewise at one another; this perfumed Rain makes the Air very sweet, but withal wets People pretty handsomely, and this is one of their greatest Pastime's, there's hardly any body at this season but what carries a hundred of these Eggshells, that are either filled with Orange-flower, or some other sweet scented Water, and as they go along in their Coaches throw them in Folks Faces: At this time the People also please themselves after their fashion; for example, they'll break off the neck of a Bottle, and tie the part that is within the Wicker, to the Tail of a Dog, and sometimes you shall see above two thousand run after him.  
The King's Dwarf is the prettiest that ever I saw, his Name is Lovisillo; he was born in Flanders, he is extreme little, and exactly well proportioned; he has a handsome Face, an admirable Complexion, and not only wittier than one can imagine, but withal very wise and knowing. When he goes to take the Air, there's a Groom to wait on him, who rides upon one Horse, and carries another before him, which is so very small, that he may properly be termed a Dwarf Horse, and is as handsome for his kind as his Master is for his. This Horse is brought to the Place where Lovisillo is to mount him, for he would be almost tired if he was to walk so far; and it is really a great pleasure to see the Dexterity of this little Animal and his Master, when he order him like a managed Horse. I do assure you that when he is upon his Back, they do not both make above three quarters of an Ell in height. He said very seriously t'other day, that he would fight the Bull at the first Bull-Feast, for the sake of his Mistress Donna Elvire. This is a little Girl about seven or eight years of Age, but wonderful beautiful. The Queen commanded him to be her Gallant. It is a great Happiness for this Child that she is fallen into the Queen's hands. I'll tell you how it happened.  
The Fathers of Mercy went to redeem a certain number of Slaves which they brought to Madrid: and according to their Custom of coming through the City in Procession, the Queen chanced to cast her Eyes upon a Captive Woman which led two little Girls by the hand; they seemed to be Sisters, but there was this difference between them, that one was extreme handsome, and the other as ugly. The Queen made her come to her, and asked her if she was the Mother of those two Children; she answered, that she was Mother only to the ugly one. And how came you by the other, said the Queen? Madam, replied the Woman, we were in a Vessel in which there was a great Lady big with Child, but we did not know who she was, only by her Attendance, and the Richness of her , it was easy to think she must be of Quality. After a long and sharp fight, we were taken, the greatest part of her People were killed; and she was so frighted, that she fell in Travail, and as soon as she was delivered, died. I was by her, and seeing this poor little Creature without a Nurse, and ready to perish, I resolved to nourish it up with my own, if 'twas possible. As soon as the Corsaires were Master's of our Ship, they divided the booty amongst themselves; they were in two Vessels, and so each took away with them the Lot that was fallen to them. Those remaining Women, and other Servants which belonged to this Lady were on one side of the Vessel, and I on the other; so that, Madam, continued the Woman, I was never able to learn what or who the Person was, whose Child I saved. I now look upon her as my own Daughter, and she believes I am her Mother. So charitable a Deed, says the Queen, shall not go unrewarded; I shall take care of you, and the little Incognito I will keep. And indeed the Queen loves it so extremely, that the Girl always wears very rich . She follows her Majesty every where, and talks to her with that grace and freedom as sufficiently declares her to be of no mean Original. Perhaps time my discover who she is.  
Here are none of those solemn and pleasant Festivals which are at Versailles, when the Ladies have the Honour to eat with their Majesties. All is very reserved in this Court, and in my Opinion, nothing but a general and constant habit could prevent abundance of things from being extreme tedious to them. Those Ladies which do not actually dwell at Court, never come to it, but when the Queen sends for them, and she is not allowed to send for them often neither. She lives for the most part without any other Company than her Women, there was never any Life more melancholy than hers.  
When she goes a hunting, (and you must know, that of all the Queens that have reigned in Spain, she's the first that has had this Liberty,) and is come to the place appointed for mounting on Horseback, she must set her feet upon the Coach boot, and so throw herself upon her Horse. It is not long since she had one, that being a little shy and skittish, would start away as she leapt upon him, and so she had a most grievous fall. When the King is there, he assists her, but no body else dare come so near the Queens of Spain as to touch them and help them on Horseback; they had rather they should be hurt, and that their Lives should be exposed to the greatest danger.  
She has fourteen Matresses or Quilts upon her Bed; there's neither Flocks nor Featherbeds used here, these Quilts being made of Spanish Wool, which is the finest in the World; they are not above three fingers thick, so that her Bed is no higher than one of ours in France. They make these Matresses so thin that they may the more easily be turned and removed; and indeed I have observed that they keep hollower, and are not near so hard.  
It is the Custom in Madrid, for the Master or Mistresses of the House to go before those that come to see them; they think this is a piece of great Civility, to leave, say they, a Person in the possession of all that is in the Room. As to the Women they do not kiss one another in their Salutation, they only present their hand without Glove.  
They have another Custom, which I think odd and peculiar enough, and that is, when a Daughter has a mind to be married, and is the eldest, and has already made her choice, though both her Father and Mother are against the Match, she need only go to the Curate of the Parish and tell him the Matter, and the business is done. Immediately he takes her from her Parent's House, and either puts her into a Convent, or to some devout Lady, where she remains for a little time; afterwards, if she perseveres in her Resolution, the Father and Mother are obliged to give her a Portion suitable to her Quality and their Estate, and in spite of them she is married. Partly upon this Account it is, that such care is taken to keep their Daughters close, and to let no body speak to them, and so to make it difficult for them to take any measures for the management of an Intrigue. Otherwise, provided the Cavallero be a Gentleman, it is sufficient, and he may marry his Mistress, though she should prove to be the Daughter of a Grandee of Spain.  
Since my being in this Country, I think I have not neglected informing you of every thing; I will now proceed to finish my Memoirs of the Court of Spain, seeing those I first sent you please you so well. I shall send you the rest as fast as any thing happens and offers itself, that is worth your Curiosity and notice. I do also promise you to write you that Relation you desire of me. But for all these little Trifles, I must beg you, dear Cousin, to grant me something that is considerable, and that is, the Continuation of your Friendship, for which I have a just value.  
From Madrid this 28th of September, 1681.   
FINIS.