THE COMPLETE Planter & Cyderist.  
Together with the ART of PRUNING FRUIT-TREES.  
IN TWO BOOKS.  
I. Containing plain Directions for the propagating all manner of Fruit-Trees, and the most approved Ways and Methods yet known, for the making and ordering of CIDER, and other English Wines.  
II. The Art of Pruning, or Lopping Fruit-Trees. With an Explanation of some Words which GARDENERS make use of, in speaking of TREES. With the Use of the Fruits of Trees for preserving us in Health, or for curing us when we are Sick.  
By a Lover of Planting.  
London, Printed for Thomas Bassett at the George near St. Dunstan's Church in Fleet street. 1690.   

THE Preface.  
Courteous Reader,  
I Shall not trouble myself with the Customary, and almost essential Concomitant of writing, by courting you into good Humour with a blandishing Epistle; only inform you, that having sometimes very much delighted in Planting, and for the  of my knowledge therein, Read over most Books, as well Ancient as Modern that treated thereof; I found in many of them very wild Notions and idle Chimeras, yet the late Authors, (as Mr Evelin, Austen, Ray, Cotton, Meagar, Worlidge, with many others, and above all, the ingenious Mr Langford) Treat very excellently of most parts thereof, yet no one to touch every point, but in many things very defective: wherefore I thought some idle hours not ill spent, if out of them all, according to the best of my judgement, I culled such Rules and Observations, as with the addition of my one Experience, a more compendious and complete Work thereof might be Compiled, which would save the Planter much Expense and Trouble in buying, and reading so many as have thereon writ; the numerousness of Authors rather consuming, than advancing any Stock of knowlidge, by leading their Readers into so many Various and uncouth Paths, as at length to lose himself in a Meander of confusion and contrarieties; for that, and no other end therefore is this Collection made; and herein I have imitated the Painter, that designing the Picture of Venus, summoned together all the fair Ladies of the Town, and from one he Selected an Eye, another a Nose, and from a third a Lip, etc. so that whatsoever he found commendable in any one, he reduced the same into his Draught, and thereby made a perfect Picture of a most exquisite Beauty: In like manner have chosen out (but whether with the same success lies in the determination of the Judicious) whatsoever I found either useful, necessary, or conducible to this Art, for the Planter to know, and thereby separated the best Metal from all dross, and impurities, and out of every one extracted the Quintessence, by reducing the same into the method you here see; which to those whose Genius leads them to the Propagation, ordering, and managery of Fruit-trees, making of Cider, and English Wines, may be acceptable, and of something more than ordinary esteem; by reason they now need not tumble over and rake in a multitude of Authors, for that which at one entire View they may clearly see, and all that is any ways requisite to be understood concerning that Subject, as also all Impertinencies, Legendary stories, unpracticable, and improbable Projects thereabouts utterly rejected, which are the grand impediments and discouragments of this beneficial Art.  
How not only easy and delightful, but profitable the Planting of Fruit-trees is, will be needless to make a discourse on, since not only Thousands of People, but whole Counties can infallibly evidence by their daily experience the many and vast advantages thereof. Only our Saturnine Northern People are not very inclinable thereunto, out of a certain conceited and inbred humour, of not doing any thing their Ancestors have not cared for, which makes them tenaciously adhere to their old and accustomed ways of Culture, and neglect, and almost scoffingly deride any improvement their forefather's did not understand, or use; this humour too, is something augmented, upon a Whim they have, that their Soil is so Sterile and improlifical by the coldness of their situation, that it would be labour lost to go about it; all which are idle fancies, since experience sufficiently testifies, that most sorts of Apples, Pears, Cherries, and Plums with due Cultivation prosper very well in each part of our Climate, unless it be amongst the mere Mountaineers; so that would our Countrymen but exile sloth and carelessness, they may have as flourishing Orchards as others; the Soil and Air being propitious enough for that purpose. I have known some so negligent, that although they have had Fruit-trees given them, which being set made a very hopeful progress in their growth and bearing, had not their wretched Laziness permitted them to be spoiled by Cattle for want of a good Fence and heedful looking to. Another pretended obstruction is the Thie●●hness of the meanest sort of People, who when any one Plants, frequently break into their Orchards, and not only rob them of their Fruit, but often injure their Trees; which objection may be as much appropriated to other Countries as ours; most rascally People having a propensity to Pilfering, yet are not other places thereby discouraged to the non-user or neglect of this gain●●● Art; since the inconvenience may be easily conquered by a little care, some severity, and time; for if many would Plant, there would be a less scarcity of Fruit, 〈◊〉 that Roguish People would less ●●lue them, and not so eagerly transgress those excellent Laws of the 43 Eliz. cap. 7, and 15 Car. 〈◊〉 cap. 2. made for the punishment of such People.  
Upon a due consideration of the whole matter, let every one that Plants but an Orchard of one hundred Trees, of good bearing kinds, and long keeping Apples, regularly Planted, manured and disposed according to the directions herein, but speak the truth, and they'll ingenuously confess, that after eight or nine years' growth of the Trees, prodigious profits have thereby accrued to their Oeconomy.  
And that this Soil or situation is not so ill influenced by any Aspect of the Heavens, as is Vulgarly, and very erroneously believed.  
It only remains that I deprecate the Reader to censure this Book according to ' its merits, and not the Capriccios of his own Brain, and in so doing, he'll show all the favour is expected by the Compiler, who on that score bids him  
Farewell. May 24. 1683.   

The Contents.  

Chapter I. Of the Seminary and Nursery. Fol. 1  
Chap. II. Of the ways, Manner and Time of Grafting. 25  
Chap. III. How to Graft several ways. 36  
Chap. IV. Of Inoculating. 52  
Chap. V Of Pruning Fruit-Trees, 63  
Chap. VI Touching the distance of Fruit-Trees. 69  
Chap. VII. Choice of Ground for an Orchard, and the ordering it. 74  
Chap. VIII. The time most proper for Transplanting of Fruit-Trees. 87  
Chap. IX. Of the manner of removing and setting Trees. 92  
Chap. X. Of Planting Wall-fruit. 103  
Chap. XI. Of Trees of low Stature and gentle Growth, commonly called Dwarf-Trees. 110  
Chap. XII. How to Plant in the Fields, with the various advantages thereof. 122  
Chap. XIII. Of propagating and ordering Vines. 139  
Chap. XIV. Of Figs, their kinds and propagation. 148  
Chap. XV. Of Walnuts, their kinds and propagation. 149  
Chap. XVI. Of Chestnuts. 152  
Chap. XVII. Of Filbeards. 154  
Chap. XVIII. Of Quinces, their kinds and propagation. 155  
Chap. XIX. Of Mulberries. 157  
Chap. XX. Of Medlars and Service-Trees. 159  
Chap. XXI. Of Goosberries, Currants, Raspherries, and Barberries. 161  
Chap. XXII. Of the kinds of Peaches and Nectarins. 165  
Chap. XXIII. Of the kinds of Apricocks and Strawberries. 168  
Chap. XXIV. Of the kinds of Plums. 170  
Chap. XXV. Of the kinds of Cherries. 173  
Chap. XXVI. Of Pears and their kinds. 175  
Chap. XXVII. Of Apples and their kinds. 180  
Chap. XXVIII. Of Annoyances to Fruit-Trees. 195  
Chap. XXIX. Of gathering Fruit, and the best way of making Cider. 204  
Chap. XXX. Brief Monthly Memorials for the Planter. 244    

THE Complete PLANTER AND CYDERIST.  

CHAP. I. Of the Seminary and Nursery.  

Of preparing the ground for the Seminary.  §. 1. AGainst the Beginning of October carefully prepare Ground by Digging, Levelling, and Cleansing it from Grass, Stones, Weeds, and Roots, making the Mould very. Fine: choose not a wet or very stiff Clay Land, nor over-rich with Dung, but such as being itself good, you may make better only with a little mixture of very rotten Dung: Let it be fenced from the cold as well as you can, so that it be free from shade and droppings of Trees.  

How to set Stones for Stocks.  §. 2. When you set Stones, (which if they be Stones of Fruit soon ripe, you must keep in Sand till October) do it by a Line, pricking holes about six Inches distance one from another, and then put in the Stones about two Inches deep, with the sharp end uppermost: When one Row is finished, remove your Line a Foot farther, and set another Row in the same manner; but let your third Row be about a Yard distant from the second, that you may have liberty to go between every two Rows to Weed, etc. And set your Plum-stones and Cherry-stones each apart by themselves, and so proceed to set as many as you have a mind. Possibly some of these Stones may not come up till the second Spring after setting, and may not frustrate your desire, if you then expect them. Some keep their Stones in Sand or Earth, in Tubs (well covered for fear of Mice) placed in a dry Cellar, in a House, and then in February they Sow them (having prepared their ground) in Trenches, as Pease are Sown. The Stones of Apricocks and Peaches are apt to spring too forward, if set too soon, and be nipped by Frosts. In like manner you may set Stones of Sloes, Haws, etc.  

How to set Nuts, etc.  §. 3. After the same manner you are to set all kind of Nuts, Acorns, Ash-keys, or the Seeds or Kernels of any other kinds of Shrubs or Trees; but because it's necessary that your young Wallnut-Trees and Chestnut-trees should grow longer in your Seedplot than Stone-Fruit, before they will be fit to be removed to the place they are to spend their Lives in: you must set them at much farther distance, that they may have more room to grow big, without hurting one another.  

How to sow Seeds.  §. 4. To raise Stocks from Seeds, or Kernels of Apples, Pears, or Crabs, (each of which sort are to be sowed by themselves) you must go thus to work.  
When either you or any Neighbour hath made Cider, Verjuice or Perry, take the Must, Murc, (or as some call it the Pouz) which is the substance of the fruit after the Juice is pressed out, the same day or the next day after, before it heats, and with a Riddle sift out the Seeds on a clean Floor, or Cloth, and these you must sow (as soon as you can conveniently) upon Beds of very fine Earth, very thick; for some being bruised in the grinding or pounding the fruit, and others not being ripe, may never come up; then sift Mould upon them, about two Finger's breadth in thickness. This way is much better than to Sow the Seeds with the Must, Murc, or Pouz together, (as some do) because the Must will heat them, and many of the Seeds will putrify, and others will not be able to root or shoot up, because they are so imprisoned in that dry and tough stuff, clinging about them.  
The Beds of Earth you sow them on may be made about two Foot in breadth, with a good distance between the Beds, that you may the better come to Weed them, and draw them up as you have occasion.  

How to secure them from prejudice.  §. 5. To keep Fowls or Birds from scraping them up, lay some white Thorn on the Beds till the Ground be well settled.  
Some cover the Beds with Fern or Straw, to keep them warm in the Winter, which may not do amiss, but than it must be taken off at the Spring's approach.  
If Moles or Mice get in (which you may easily discover, because the Mice leave shells of the Seeds on the top of the Beds) they must be destroyed.  
For Mice, lay Poison, or Oatmeal mixed with Glass pounded small, and Butter, and cast bits of it upon the Beds, or set Traps for Moles or Mice, better known than described.  
The next Spring you will see these Stones and Seeds come up plentifully; first the Leaves, almost of the shape of the Kernel split in two, and from betwixt them will the Stem Put forth. Keep them clean from the Weeds all the year, which must be plucked up while they are young, lest if they get Root, in drawing them up, you root up the Seedlings with them; but if in the Weeding any Seedlings come up, set them again almost to the top; then water them.  
These Weeds, and such as are plucked up any where else, thrown up into a heap, will rot, especially if any Lime be scattered amongst them, and become very good Manure; but this should be before they are Seeded, for then the Manure made of them will be apt to make the ground it is cast upon more subject to Weeds.  
If a dry time happen, you may some time in the Summer water the Beds.  

The proper Seeds for stocks, and stocks for each kind of Fruit.  §. 6. Your Seminary is to be stored with Stocks raised of Stones and Seeds of these following, viz.  
Peach-stones are to yield Stocks for Peaches and Nectarines.  
Stones of the Wheat-Plum (which is a Plum ripe in August, and is white) or of the white Pear-Plum, or of some other good white Plum (in defect of them) whose Tree puts forth large Shoots, Branches, 
Stones of the white Pear-plum or Wheat-plum make the best stocks for Peaches, Nectarines and Apricocks to be inoculated on.  and Leaves, or for want of them, Stones of the Mustle-Plum, black Pear-Plum, Primordian, or any other black or red Plum, whose Tree is of free growth, and large leaved, will yield you excellent Stocks for Peaches, Nectarines, Apricocks, and Plums; but stocks raised from the stones of Damsons are the worst, and very bad, being dry stocks, and not so sappy as the .  
The Seeds of Pears yield the best stocks for Pear-trees.  
Grafting Pear-Grafts or Cyens on a white Thorn or Quince stock, will make the Tree to be of small growth, and the Fruit bad, having hard and stony Cores, if grafted upon a Thorn Tree.  
Black Cherry stones and Red Cherry stones yield stocks to Graft or Inoculate Cherries on; but the Black Cherry stocks are best; for they yield goodly strait large Plants, and full of Sap, and become greater Trees than those produced of Red Cherry stones, and consequently more proper for Orchards and Fields.  
To Inoculate an Apricock very low on a white Pear-Plum stock, or on a Wheat-Plum-stock, and then after a Years growth Inoculate a Peach or a Nectarine on it, is highly approved; only this way there will be two Years loss of time: And note that the red Roman Nectarine will scarce take on a Plum-stock any other way.  

Stocks raised of Crab kernels are better than those raised of Apple kernels.  The Seeds or Kernels of Crabs and Apples yield stocks the most proper to Graft any kind of Apple upon, and though the stocks raised of Apple-seeds or Kernels do shoot more clear and smooth, and come forward faster, and are of a quicker and larger growth in stock than stocks raised of Crab-kernels or Seeds, and Grafts grafted on them will grow quicker than on Crab-stocks, yet by the universal consent and experience of all, stocks raised from the Seeds or Kernels of Crabs are preferred either for Orchards or Fields, Cider, Baking, or Table, far before stocks raised of Seeds or Kernels of Apples, and that for these reasons: Crab-stocks are more free from Canker, and more hardy, and so better able to endure cold and course Land, and because they root better, and so will make large Trees, and will make Buds, Blossoms, and Fruit more hardy and strong to endure frost and cold weather in the Spring: it also not onlp preserves, but quickens, enlivens, makes brisk and poignant the Gust of any delicate Apple.  
But if you intent to propagate any delicate Apple which is over tart in taste, Graft it on some stock raised of the Jennet Moyl, or some sweet Apple Tree, which will sweeten its juice something. So a Pear is improved by Grafting on a Quince-stock, but the Tree will not be large, but serve well for a Dwarf-Tree.  
However where you cannot conveniently be stored with Crab-kernels, Apple-kernels are not so much inferior to them, but they may well enough be made use of (as they commonly are) for raising stocks to Graft Apples upon.  

Objections against Crab stocks got out of Woods and Hedges to Graft Apples on.  Do not furnish yourself with Stocks for Appletrees by getting young Crabtrees out of Hedges, rough grounds, and Woods, because the Workmen in getting them break some, and hurt others of the principal Roots; and it sometimes falls out that they have been cut down, and Sprung up again, out of the remaining stump, or otherwise hurt, which though not easily discerned, because skinned over, yet will be a prejudice to them for ever; also many of the stocks so got out of Woods and Hedges, have, for want of room, and by reason of shades and the dropping of other Trees about them, been checked and baffled in their growth, and so become crooked, scabby, ill grown, rough, and unkindly, and never like to make good and thriving Trees. Some that furnish themselves this way with stocks, choose such as are largest, and those having for the most part, thick and hard Bark, and old Roots, which come on but slowly when they are removed to make Appletrees. Likewise if these stocks be not Grafted very low, (and if they are, a Years growth or two will be lost) they will put forth Branches and Suckers of their own every Year, in such abundance, that without constant pruning of them, the Grafts will be in danger of being starved, and a better advantage may be made of Crabtrees in Hedg-rows and rough Grounds, by grafting them where they are, where they will thrive the better.  
The only objection is, that a Man cannot be furnished with Trees of a good largeness, to bear so soon by stocks raised by Kernels and Stones as those got out of Woods, etc. or those raised by Suckers, that may be of several Years growth before used.  
To which it's answered and approved by daily experience, That if at the same time that you get Crabtree stocks (of six or seven Years growth) out of the Wood or Hedges, or Suckers, and set them in order to be grafted, you sow Kernels or Stones, the Stocks and Suckers you so grafted for six or eight years may continue larger and bigger than Trees that come of Kernels and Stones, but yet these lesser Trees shall so get ground of the other, that by the tenth or twelfth year they shall not only overtake them, but outstrip them in growth.  

Stocks for Pears, Plums, and Cherries, of suckers, not good.  And as to the way of raising of Stocks for Pears, Plums, and Cherries, by Suckers, it's to be observed, that Trees so raised will be ever apt to cast up such Suckers themselves, and such as do, are seldom found to be good bearing Trees, because they expend their Sap so much that way.  
Nevertheless Suckers springing out of the Roots of Pear-Trees, Plum-Trees, and Cherry-Trees, may be good Stocks for to graft Pears, Plums, and Cherry-Grafts on for Wall-Trees and Dwarf-Trees, because they make Trees of small growth.  
And one shall very difficulty store himself with Crabtree Stocks from the Wood and Hedges, and from Suckers, to such a number as he may desire, because many of them will prove bad and miscarry; whereas as from Kernels, or Seeds and Stones, it's almost the same labour to have thousands as hundreds, and such as will almost all of them be fit and proper for use.  
You may also raise Stocks to graft Apples and Pears on, by setting cuttings of the Jennet Moyl, and Kentish coddlings, and the Quince-Tree for Pears, by setting those in the place where the Trees of Apple and Pear are to grow, in Dwarfor Wall Trees: and also the ends of Roots, cut off from young Trees, taken up to be trasplanted, and set in Beds of good Earth, will shoot forth tops, and become good Stocks, which may serve for Dwarf Trees and Wall Trees.  
Or you may Inoculate Buds on the small Roots of great Trees that grow at farthest distance from the Bodies, and after a years growth to cut off the Root about a Foot in length, with the new shoot growing upon it, and transplant it; because a Tree will be raised thus sooner than from 2 Seed or Stone.  
In case of an exigent for a stock or two, this way may be practised, but it will be found too troublesome for a general use.  
Suckers springing from the Root of the Wheat Plum-tree, or white Pear-Plum-tree, make excellent stocks for Peaches, Nectarines, Apricocks, and Plums; but to have plenty of stocks for large standards for Orchards or Fields, there is no better way of raising them, than by ripe Kernels or Seeds of Crabs, or for want of them, of Apples, (the ripeness of the Seed or Kernel is known by its being black) and of Pears for Pear-stocks, and of Cherry-stones for Cherry-stocks, and of Peach-stones for Peach-stocks, to Inoculate Peaches and Nectarines on, and of Wheat-Plum and white Pear-Plum-stones to graft or Inoculate Peaches, Nectarines, Apricocks, and Plums on; with which a Man may easily provide himself.  

Of removing and transplanting Seedlings or Seed plants from the Seminary into the Nursery.  §. 7. In the later end of October, or beginning of November, after one Summer's growth in the Seedplot, you ought, and must in no wise neglect to draw up with your hand such of your Crab, Apple, or Pear-Seedlings, as you find grown a Foot or more in height, but those which are not grown a Foot in height you may let remain in your Seedplot another year; and as for those proceeding from Stones, they need not be removed, but grafted or inoculated in the Seminary, the stones being set at six Inches distance, as afore is said; but very many will in October remove those coming of stones as well as of Seeds or Kernels, and like it best; because such as grow two or three years upon the Seed-bed before removing, thrust their Roots very deep in the Earth, and are not only very hard to be drawn up, but their Roots, when set again, (though a great part be cut off) must of necessity be thrust down very deep into the Earth; and then such spread their Roots deep and below the good Soil, by thrusting their young Roots from the lowest part where the Root was cut off, and so they neither have so good Nourishment from the Earth, (as spreading below the best Soil) nor are they so easily transplanted when ready, as those drawn the first year, and are set very small.  

How to order the Seedlings after drawn up.  §. 8. When the Seed-plants or Seedlings are drawn up, cut off the side-sprigs from about the top, and the strings from about the Roots, and snip off the ends or extremities both of the top, that it may not run too fast upwards, but the Body may grow in bigness, and of the Tap or Heart-Root, that it may not run directly downwards, (lest it run farther than the good Soil) but may be more apt to spread its Roots in breadth, and near the top of the Ground, where the best Soil is.  
Then have Beds prepared of good fertile dry Earth, not over-rich, lest upon removal afterward into a much worse Soil, (as for the most part Orchard and Field-ground is) your Trees coming of a sudden from such delicate Food to such course Far, pine away, if they do not perish. And this is rationally thought to be the cause why many Trees bought out of London-Nurseries (which are vastly deep with fat and rich Manure) decay, or come on very poorly when they are brought into the Country.  
Therefore upon every removal or transplanting, either of Seed-plants, or young Trees, endeavour to have Earth as good, or better (to place next the Roots at least) than that out of which they were taken.  
If any of these spring upright, top them early, (that is, cut off about an Inch long at a Bud at the uppermost end of the Seed-plant, that the cut may be covered with a fresh sprig) and it will make them grow bigger Bodied, and spread at the cut place, and so become sooner ready for Grasting. And let not the Roots be too long; about a handful in length (or less) is sufficient; for if the Roots be long, and set deep, the Trees afterwards are taken up with more difficulty, and worse Roots. And the reason why all Seed-plants ought to be transplanted or removed after one Summer's growth on the Seed-bed, is, because they get good Roots, which of themselves thrust down one single Root for the most part, and that into the bad Soil. But if you would have stocks an Ell or more high, to Graft or Inoculate for Standards, you must not top them, or cut off their Tops; because topping them makes them to spread at the cut place, and their growing up to cease.  
If you would Plant and Orchard, and have excellent sound Trees, early, and great bearers, and the Trees free from Cankering, remove your Seed-plants into the places, and in the order you intent your Apple or Pear-Trees to grow, and let the Seed-plants or Stocks grow there two years, and then graft them, and order them as you do Trees that are set in Orchards, and by this means there will need no removal after Grafting, and you'll be quit of the many mischiefs that attend Transplanting, and have better bearing, freer growing, and sounder Trees than any you can transplant out of the Nursery into the Orchard, only you must carefully preserve them from , Hares, and Coneys, both before and after Grafting, until they have attained a sufficient height and bigness.  

Of setting the Seedlings, stocks, or seed plants.  §. 9 Let every Bed you make for setting these Plants or Stocks in, be about two Foot broad, leaving room betwixt each Bed to walk and work about them, without prejudicing the Plants or Stocks; set two rows a Foot or more distant from each other on every Bed, by drawing a Line and pricking holes a full Foot a sunder; let the holes be so deep that if the Roots be not very long, you may set your plants or stocks about two finger's breadth deeper in the ground than they grew in the Seedplot; close the Mould about them, and if it be a very dry time, water them the very same day, the better to settle the Earth about them.  
If you can get old Fern, (in some places called Brakes or Brackin) or for want of it, Straw or new Dung, cover the Beds with it, which will keep the Roots warm in the Winter, and preserve them from overmuch heat in the Summer; if the Land be any whit stiff, this cover will make it mellow, and when rotten every it, and very much hinder the growth of Weeds, which ought duly to be plucked up; and put new Fern, etc. as the old rots: and be sure you draw the biggest of the stocks first, and set them by themselves, and the least by themselves, and set stocks of Crab-kernels by themselves, and of Apple-kernels by themselves, and stocks raised of Plum-stones, Cherry-stones, Peach-stones, each distinctly by themselves in strait rows.  
If you intent to raise any stocks to be set out in Fields before they are grafted, you must not top them upon their first removal, neither need you remove them before they are grown high enough to stand in the Fields; if you find that they spread their Roots, and run not downwards, as in gravelly, and such kind of Soils they will not be apt to do, (and by the first you draw up you may judge of the rest, whether they do or no) if you reserve any for this use, you had best choose such as grow strait, and at convenient distance one from another, which you may contrive to do in drawing out the first two years such as be of stature to be transplanted from among them; dress these once or twice a year, by cutting off the biggest side-branches, to hasten their growing tall, but leave on the top, and some small side-branches, for this causeth them to thrive in bigness the more, which they ought to do proportionable to their height, or else they will be too weak to bear a top.  
Observe this also in your Grafted Trees in your Nurseries or elsewhere.  

Grafts must not be grafted on different kinds.  §. 10. All Stocks and Cyens or Grafts that prosper when they are jointed together, are congenerous, or of the same kind, and nearly related in some degree; therefore Cherry-Grafts, or Cyens, Grafted or Inoculated on Plum-stocks, will not prosper long, nor Plum-grafts on Cherry-stocks, neither do Apple-grafts on Pear-stocks, nor pear-grafts on Apple or Crab-stocks. Neither will an Apple Cyens grow grafted upon a Sallow, Poplar, Alder, Elm, or Horse-plum.  

Apple-seeds, etc. will not produce the same kind of Apple, etc. they were had out of.  Seeds or Stones of Fruits gathered from Trees that have been grafted, or inoculated on stocks of different kinds from the Graft or Cyens, produce of themselves (not being grafted or inoculated) not the same Fruit as that was from whence the Seed or Stone came, but a different and most commonly a far worse Fruit; and as concerning the Seeds of Apples, it's to be observed, That although they produce not Trees bearing the same kind of Apples as those the Seeds were had of, yet without grafting they will bring forth a good harsh Fruit that may yield good Cider; and thus it's said we came by some of our best Cyder-Apples. Neither are some sorts of Crabs so contemptible a Fruit as they are generally accounted; for being gathered very ripe, and kept a good while to mellow, some of them will make good Cider, or ground with other mellow Fruit, do much enrich the Cider, and are the best refiners of foul Cider; and generally Crabs yield a strong Liquor, so that such kind of Crab-stocks may rather help to mend some Apples of weak Juice, than make them worse. And this inconvenience is always found in Trees coming of Seed, and not grafted or inoculated, That they are very long before they bear Fruit, whereas stocks grafted or inoculated from Trees, which experience assures are of good bearing kinds, and Fruits, commonly bear well in three or four years, and so continue. If you would have some Trees raised of the Seeds of Apple-kernel, view your Seminary about Michaelmas, and see which of your Seedlings have produced the broadest, fairest; and largest Leaf and Shoot, and those elect for your Trees to be set without Grafting, for it's commonly observed that those Seed-plants or Trees that have very large, fair, and broad Leaves, bear the fairest and largest Fruit.  

Mere grafting betters not Fruit.  §. 12. Mere Grafting doth not meliorate the Fruit at all; as if you graft a Cyen upon the same Tree you took it from, the Fruit will be the very same, without the least alteration from what the Tree bore before it was so grafted; but Fruit may something participate of the nature of the Stock wherein it's grafted, so as to be made by it either better or worse; as if you graft a very sour Apple Cyen upon a sweet Apple Tree, the Fruit will be something better: So a sweet Apple Cyen, grafted on a very harsh four Crab-stock, hath produced a better Fruit than the Tree from whence the Apple-graft was had. So a Pear-Cyen, grafted on a Quince-stock, hath mended the Pear; and though the Graft doth keep its own Nature, and mightily predominate on what Stock soever it's grafted, yet such an union as that of the Stock and the Graft, in natural Bodies, is hardly conceivable without some commixture of their Natures, and there are some reasons from experience which make this more than probable, as  
I. The Seeds of a grafted Tree take much after the stock, and it's something strange to conceive the Kernel should participate so much of the stock and the Fruit be nothing influenced by it.  
II. Those that produce the best Fruit by their stones or seeds, yet vary from the Fruit the seed or stones were taken out of, which in all likelihood proceeds from the mixture of the quality of the stock and Cyen in that Tree the stone came from.  
III. It's manifest that amongst Trees of one kind, in the same Orchard, you shall have some one of them bear better Fruit than any of the rest sometimes; and it's not known what to impute this excellency more probably to, than that the Stocks they were grafted on might be Crabtrees that bore Crabs of several kinds, some better, some worse.  
So that to conclude, it cannot be amiss to be so far curious about the Stocks you graft, as rather to choose such Seeds and Stones to raise them from, as come from Trees that bear the best Fruit in their kind (if you can have them) than to take them at adventure, which makes some choose Seeds out of fair, large, juicy Crabs, to raise stocks to graft some delicate Apple-grafts on.  

Concerning the Pith of a Tree.  §. 13. It's held by some, That the Kernel of the Fruit hath a great dependence upon, and Sympathy with the Pith of the Tree, and that hollow Trees, though they grow and bear Fruit, yet that Fruit hath few Kernels in it, and those little better than withered Husks; and experience evidences that there are some hollow Fruit-trees that bear Fruit so much more excellent than any of the same kind the Owners have had, or could elsewhere meet with, that they have been very desirous to propagate from them, but never could, any manner of way, raise young ones of those old Trees, that would bear so good a Fruit as the old Trees: which seems to intimate, That the Fruit of a Tree may be the better for the Piths being consumed; and if that be true, as it must be so, because the Pith conveys to the Fruit a worse sort of Juice than any other part of the Tree doth; and therefore being freed from that infection by the consumption of the Pith, the Fruit becomes more choice and delicate: and that the Pith is the conveyance of a courser or other sort of juice, is rendered in some sort probable, because (as hath been before observed) the Kernels of Fruit depend much upon the Pith, which almost never produce such good Fruit as the seeds or stones come out of, but generally much worse.  

Reasons why every one ought to Graft, Plant, and raise his own Trees.  §. 14. Because most men are through ignorance indifferent whether they have Fruit-trees of their own or no, because for a little money they can have Plants from others, ready brought up to their hands; yet it's far better to have them of their own bringing up and Propagation, and to have Seminaries and Nurseries of their own for this purpose, for these reasons,  
I. Because this way a Man shall be sure to meet with no failure, either in the kind, great bearing, or goodness of the Trees and Fruit; in all which he shall frequently be disappointed and lose much time and expense, if he have his Trees upon the reputation and trust of others, who make a Trade of selling them, and are therefore many times incurious, careless, and perhaps knavish in raising them, and in stead of the right kinds, (if they can get either ease or any thing by it) will not stick to put him off with another.  
II. This trouble and expense of buying young Plants, and getting them home, (many times from places very remote) and the prejudice they often receive in the carriage, will be wholly prevented.  
III. This way a man shall, with almost the same labour and charge, both furnish himself sufficiently, and have so many more as to defray the Charge he may be at about it, if he will sell them, or to gratify his friends, if he had rather bestow them.  
iv He will this way be provided with stocks for Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, and all choice Wall-Fruit, raised from Kernels and stones of Fruit, which are incomparably better than stocks procured any other way.  
And lastly those that propagate Trees for Sale have their Nurseries exceeding fat, rich, and fertile, whereby Trees removed out of them into the Orchard, etc. of others, which are always almost of a far courser and worse Soil, frequently prin, pine away, and very often die; and if they live, they seldom prove fair, large, or well bearing Trees; and it often happens, that the Air and Soil into which they are removed, is heterogeneous and unsuitable for Trees coming out of the Air and Nursery you have them: For it's a sure Rule, always to transplant or remove Trees or Stocks from a worse to a better Soil upon every removal, and then they will prosper well. So Trees removed out of the South into the North seldom prosper, whereas Trees removed out of the North into the rich Southern Soils, like well: So Trees brought up in Nurseries in Lancashire, and transplanted into Ireland, thrive and bear exceeding well.  

About the Bark of Trees on Barren ground.  §. 15. Stocks or Trees that grow on barren ground, have commonly their Bark very white and hard, whereas those on good Land have their Bark very smooth, green, and plump, and the last years shoots large and full; but the others shoots are short, small, and meagar.  

How to raise a Fence of Crabtrees  §. 16. If one have a mind to raise a good new Fence about a Field he designs to enclose, which he can keep for four or five years together, to bear Corn, or Clover-grass to Mow, that  may be so long kept out of it, he may do it rarely well, by sowing Apple-Kernels of as many sorts as he will on the top of a newmade Ditch-bank, making the dead Hedge (that is usually on the top of the Bank) on the utside of the Ditch, to defend them.  
When they are grown up, he may plaish this Hedge, leaving at every four or five yard's distance one of the best Trees to grow up, which of themselves will bear good Cyder-Fruit, (which he may guests at by the broadness and largeness of the Leaves they bring forth) or may be grafted to bear what pleaseth the owner: and by this means in a little time, and with small charge, he shall have a fruitbearing and impregnable hedge.  

Remove out of the Seminary all Stocks, whether raised of Seed or stones.  §. 17. Let all Stocks whatever, that are removed, grow a year or two before you graft them; and notwithstanding some opinions to the contrary, no sort of young Plants or Stocks, that come of Seed or Stones, aught to be grafted or inoculated in the place where they were sowed, before that they have been removed; because if they be not removed, they thrust down a single Root or two commonly into Clay, Gravel, or moist ground, etc. which Root or Roots draw bad nourishment from below the good Soil, which always is nearest the top of the ground, and thereby hurts Trees, Roots, and Fruits, and in case any of them be there grafted, and removed afterwards, they want good Roots, and are difficult to remove, because not removed when young, of one or two Summer's growth.   

CHAP. II. Of the Ways, Manner, and Time of Grafting.  

The time to Graft in.  §. 1. FRom the middle of January until the beginning of March, if the Wether be open, without Frost, and grow warm, the wind not being North or North-East, you may graft Plums, Cherries, and Pears, but not Apples, till the Bark of the Stocks will a little rise or peel from the wood, which is seldom before the middle of March, and often not till April, because this is necessary for the best way of grafting them; but if you will graft any Apples in the Cleft, you may do it from the beginning of March until the tenth of April, and that with success; but grafting in the Cleft early in the beginning of March, is best, especially, if the weather be mild and open: and Graft not within sixteen hours before or after the Change or full of the Moon.  

The grafting Instruments.  §. 2. Your Instruments to graft with are to be a fine, neat, sharp, small, well-set Saw, to cut off the heads of some stocks which are grown too big for the Knife; a good strong Pruning-Knife, made a very little coming, which will be ready to cut off the heads of your smaller stocks you intent to graft: also a good middling Knife to cleave some of the smaller sort of stocks with; also an Instrument like a broad Chisel, the handle of Iron, and the edge alike on both sides, not sloping on one side, like that of Joiner's, but plain as a Knife, and very thin, about three or four Inches in breadth; with which you may either cleave your larger stocks, or prune your Trees; also a little Mallet, or else a stick about a Foot long, made of an old Spade or Shovels handle, or some other hard wood, to use instead of a Mallet, to drive your Knife when you cleave the stock: Also an Iron Tool about six Inches in length, made turning at each end about an Inch and an half; if it be steeled at either end, it will be the better, and not so apt to bend when you open a strong stock: these ends are to be made flat, a little like a Chisel, but not above half an Inch broad at most, only pretty strong; if yond will, one end may be pretty small for the smaller stocks, and the other bigger; the use of it is to supply the place of a Wedge, by holding open your Stock till you have set your Graft or Cyen exactly in its place in the Cleft of the Stock.  
This represents the Form thereof.  
Instead of this Instrument you may use a Wedge of hard wood, about a Foot long, especially for great and large stocks.  
You are also to have a sharp Penknife, to shape your Grafts or Cyens with, and also a Whetstone to quicken the edge of your Knives when dull, and a Basket to carry your Tools in, and another to carry your Grafts or Cyens in: Also you are to have Ruches, Bastes, or soft Flags, to bind Grafts or Buds to the Stock. You may be furnished therewith at the Mat makers.  

The manner of preparing clay: and how to clay grafts.  Also you must have Clay prepared with Horse-dung very well mixed and worked together as Mortar, about two parts Clay: If it be not well tempered and wrought together, it will be apt to fall from your Graft, in case of much wet, or chop, or cleave if dry weather happen, and so you'll lose your labour in Grafting; for you must Clay your Grafts close on every side an Inch above the top of the Stock, and an Inch below the bottom of the Clefts, that no Air get in to whither the Graft; and keep Clay on the grafted part until the stock be covered over with the Graft. For Clay is as a Salve to a Wound, which heals it up, and it rather keeps out moisture than otherwise, if well closed; and also preserves from dry winds, Sun, and other annoyances: Therefore keep on the Clay a year or two, till the head of the stock be covered with the Graft, and the cloven healed up.  

Choice of Grafts or Cyens.  §. 3. These Cyens or Grafts you get aught to be the last years Shoots, strong and very well grown, that grow on the top or outside of a Tree, that several years' experience of those that know it, can faithfully assure you bears very well, and good fruit of its kind; and cut not off the tops of the Cyens until that you graft them, for so they will keep better; but immediately after grafting, the tops of Grafts are to be cut at a Bud, that they may spread the better, and of such as are but short, if there be Blossom-buds on the top, as it's commonly seen in Pearmain-Cyens, and many other good bearing kinds. Grafts that are very small and slender commonly fail, therefore choose the fairest, fullest, and strongest shoot of the last years growth, and fullest of Buds, and of good bearing kinds, else you may have fair Trees, and little or no Fruit on them, and so fancy you have an Orchard, though seldom Fruit; for some Trees will grow and blossom very well, yet rarely bear Fruits; the reason is, for that they were grafted from bad bearing Trees, and are of bad bearing kinds.  
A shoot or Branch of the year next foregoing makes the best Cyens or Graft, and thrives best, though in Herefordshire, when they grafted old Trees, they commend and use Cyens of two or three years' growth, yet those are seldom found to have convenient Buds to put forth at, and often times have blossoming Buds on them, and make not so good a growth, neither have they so good a joint to graft at as those of the last year.  
When you get Grafts, you had best cut off at least three Inches of that which grew the year before with them, besides the last years Shoot, for so they will keep the better, and you may use about an Inch and an half of that old Wood in every Cyens when you Graft it.  
Perhaps you may not have several sorts of Plums, Cherries, or Pears so near you, as that you may get Buds fresh enough for Inoculation: In this case you may procure Cyens, and graft them, and they will continue fresh, though you should send for them from beyond Sea.  
These Cyens or Grafts of any kind may be grafted immediately after they are gotten, and that successfully; or they may be kept three Weeks or a Month before they are used, and there ought to be a Fortnight or three Weeks betwixt the time of their being cut, and their being grafted, that the Stocks in that time may be replenished with Sap, and the Cyens more empty of it; and then they will quicker incorporate by more greedily attracting the Sap out of the Stock.  
To keep your Cyens or Grafts after they are cut, you need not, as some direct, bury them in moist Mould; for this may be a means to make them swell and bud forth by receiving moisture from the Earth; and then when by grafting they are exposed to the cold open Air, they will be in danger to whither and die before they have nourishment from the Stock. You may lay them in a dry house, so it be near no heat, or under the shade of an old Tree or Hedge, and cover them all over with dry Mould, that the Air may not have too much Influence upon them: though they seem somewhat dry, yet if they cut with a fresh colour, and be not much withered, they will not grow the worse, but rather the better; yea some that have seemed withered, being carried 70 or 80 Miles, have grown well. And they may be carried hundreds of Miles in a Box of Mold, or their ends stuck in Clay, or a Turnip, and wrapped about with green fresh Moss, that they bruise not; bind not many together; for if so, those in the middle will dry, and be spoiled in certain days, but rather lay them thin in the Mould.  
Be very careful that the Buds be neither hurt or rubbed in the binding or carriage of the said Grafts.  
In providing Cyens or Grafts of Pears, Plums, and Cherries, you must cut them in the beginning of February, having respect to the forwardness or backwardness of the Spring, and the warmth or coldness of the Country you live in; but you must be sure to cut them before the Buds have any speck of white appear on them.  
Cyens or Grafts for Appletrees will seldom be too forward any time before the beginning of March.  
Grafts of Cherry and Plum-Trees must be grafted soon, because they bud earliest, and you are to begin with them ere they bud forth, then with Pear-trees, and lastly with Appletrees.  
Elect the fairest and largest Grafts on the top Branches of a Tree, and of the last years growth, and on the Sun-side of the Tree, which will bear sooner than those got on side-branches.  

Of joints and height of grafting  §. 4. There be some indifferent whether they graft at a joint or no, but forecast to have a Bud directly behind the shoulder of the Cyens; if Cyens with joints were scarce, you might practise so on small Stocks, that will speedily be covered, but if Cyens can be had with joints, never grafted with others, for these will cover the Stocks sooner. However this is the opinion of many, yet I always grafted at one of the lowest Buds on the thicker end of the last years Shoot or Sprout, and valued not a joint of the former years' growth, unless the Graft were too short; for the straighter and smother your Graft is, the more exactly you may fit it to your Stock, especially if your Stock be young, and have but a thin Sap, and this was very successful; however grafting at a joint may do well if the Stock have a thick Sap or Bark, as commonly your Woodstocks and all large Trees have. The wood below the knot or seam is commonly crooked, and not so smooth and strait as the wood below a Bud on the thicker end of the last years Shoot; therefore rather graft at a Bud, because you may join the Graft and Stock the more exactly.  

Height to graft at.  §. 5. If you Graft Apple or Pear-Cyens, graft a Foot or less from the ground; do the like for Wall-trees and Dwarf-trees, but if you graft Cherry or Plum-Cyens, for standards in Orchards or Fields, graft them six or seven Foot high, and at that height let them begin to spread; and when you graft, cut the top of the Cyens or Graft off close above a Bud, about four or five Inches above the Shoulder, if it be for a Standard-tree, two Buds above the Clay being full enough; but for Dwarves or Wall-trees, you may let the Cyens or Grafts be six Inches or more long, with several Buds, that they may shoot forth many Branches and spread from the very Stock. If you Graft old Apple, or Pear-trees, or their Branches, you must Graft according to the thickness of their Branches, which is usually seven or eight Foot high or more. It will do well in Grafting Stocks for large standards, to put but one Cyens or Graft into a Stock (unless the Stock be very large, or an old Tree you Graft) and if it put forth several Shoots, to cut off all but one, that is the straightest and strongest: But for Dwarves and Wall-fruit, put in two Cyens if the Stock be big enough; let the later be Grafted near the ground, the former at such height you think fit, and the Stock will allow.  

The size of stocks to be Grafted.  § 6. If the Plants that you removed out of the Seedplot into the Nursery, and such Stocks for Stone-Fruit in the Seedplot as you intent to Graft, be half an Inch over in thickness where they are to be Grafted, or little more, it's enough; It's best not to have them above an Inch in the Diameter, both that you may lose no time, and that the Stock may be easier covered by the Cyens or Graft. In the cloven you may Graft any Stock, that is a little above half an Inch, to three Inches Diameter at the place to be Grafted at; but one Inch Diameter of the Stock at the Grafted place is the best,  

How to mark Trees to know and distinguish their kinds.  § 7. In Grafting or Inoculating its necessary to have some mark, to know what kind of Fruit is put upon each Stock: If you Graft many of one kind, (as it's necessary for Cyder-Fruit) you may observe to make every row to consist but of one kind, and it's but entering in a Book, that such a row hath such a kind of Fruit in it, and no other; but where there are several in one row, there may be a Stake knocked into the ground, at the beginning of every new sort, and so entered in your Book; and where you have very few of a kind (or for the whole Nursery if you please) you may make marks of several figures or shapes in the Bark of the Stocks, which marks enter in your Book, and what kind it denotes, and at two or three years when you remove it, the mark will be very visible, and by renewing the marks sometimes, you may continue it as long as you please; and if any Tree be stolen, you may own it by the mark, which is made with the point of a Penknife by cutting almost through the Bark of the Stock, the form of a Letter or any other figure or character whereby to know the kinds of Fruits.  

Buds on the Stock at Grafting not to be pulled off until the Gr●ft put forth.  § 8. Buds upon the Stocks that are engrafted, should be let alone, all or most of them, until the Grafts have put forth Buds of their own, and be able to draw up the Sap out of the Stock, and then rub off all the Buds on the Stock, below the Grafts, that they may have all the Sap.  
§ 9 Stocks that are white, when you Graft them will seldom make the Graft to grow well and prosper; the whiteness being caused through the barrenness of the Soil, and observe what length the Stock did shoot out Sprouts the foregoing year, and commonly so long will the Graft shoot out, or more, if it take well.   

CHAP. III. How to Graft several ways.  
§. 1. THere are several ways of Grafting and all good, if Judiciously and dexterously performed: To which end, I shall endeavour to set down the most plain and exact description of each way, for the better and truer information of the young Planter, and first begin with that called slicing, or Packing on, which being described at large, may serve as a General direction for all.  

Grafting called Slicing, or Packing on.  §. 1. Cut off the top of Stock, in some smooth and strait place, that may be Answerable to the straightness of the Graft, when set on. If you do it with a Handsaw, cut it smooth afterwards with a Knife, leaving the top flat and even.  
Then prepare your Cyens or Graft, (first observing which side is straightest at the bottom or thicker end, that so it may fit the strait part of the Stock when set on) by cutting the Graft or Cyen on one side only, from the Joint, Knot, or Seam, if the part below it be smooth and strait; (the Knot or Seam is a Circle round about the Graft, dividing and distinguishing the last Summer's growth from the former) or from some one Bud on the lower part of the last years Shoot, or Sprout, down slopewise in the Wood till it be cut quite off, in that the slope may be about an Inch long or something more, observing it's bend, that when the Graft or Cyen is fixed to the Stock, it may stand almost upright; and cut the Graft or Cyen thin at the bottom of cut place, yet leave on all the Bark on the opposite side; then give a cut cross through the Bark at the top of the Slope, and then cut a thin Chip of that Slope upward to the cross cut, that there may be a shoulder to rest on the top of the Stock, but cut not this shoulder too deep, little more than through the Bark will be enough, and this will cause a little rising in the Sloped part, which you must cut down, that the whole Slope may be plain and smooth, without dints or rise, and lie even and close to the side of the Stock. Cut then the top of the Cyen off, close above a Bud, about four Inches above the shoulder if it be for a Standard-tree, two Buds above the Clay being full enough; but for Dwarf, or Wall-trees, you may let the Cyen or Graft be six Inches long with several Buds, that they may shoot forth many Branches, and spread from the very Stock.  
The Cyens or Graft thus prepared, lay the cut part of the Cyens or Graft upon the strait side of the Stock, and if it may be, on the West, or South-west side of the Stock, and so measure and mark the just length and breadth of; it then cut away so much of the Bark of the Stock, as the cut part of the Cyens or Graft may fit, drawing your Knife upwards; but as the Stock is bigger, and the Bark thicker than that on the Cyens, or Graft, so the Chip must be longer and broader, or else the passage of the Sap in the Stock and Cyen or Graft (which is chiefly betwixt the Bark and the wood) will not meet together, which should and must be aimed at, as in the work you will easily see.  
Then lay the cut part of the Cyens or Graft on the cut part of the Stock, and let the shoulder of the Graft or Cyen rest directly upon the top of the Stock, so that the cut parts of both may join even and smooth all along, and so bind them together close, with course woollen Yarn, Bases, or the inward peeling of the Witch-tree, if you bind with such materials as will not be lose or rotten by Midsummer; about that time give the binding a cut  with a Knife to set the prisoners at liberty: Have in readiness some Clay free from stones, well mixed with Horse-dung, etc. (Vide Chap. 2. Sect. 2.) and daub it about the Stock and Cyen, an Inch above the head of the Stock, and an Inch below the bottom of the Cyens or Graft; work it up round the Cyens or Graft till it be sharp at the top, that the Rain-water may fall better off it; and with a Knife or rather a little Trowel dipped in water, smooth over the Clay, but in doing this, be very careful not to displease the Cyens or Graft.  
Thus you may Graft Pears, Plums, Cherries, and Apples, if it be before the Bark of the Stock will part from the wood of them, for when it will, the next way following is better for Apples.  

Grafting in the Back or Rind.  §. 2. The second way called Grafting in the Bark is much like this, and some prefer it before the beformentioned, or any other way; but it can only be used for Apples, because all Cyens of other Fruit, will be grown past use, before the Bark of the Stock will peel, which is about the end of March or beginning of April, but this will be time enough for Apples if your Stocks be in any thing good liking, which if they be not, they are not fit to be Grafted any way: Prepare then your Stock and Cyen or Graft, exactly as your were directed in Packing, only instead of cutting the Bark of the Stock, slit it on the South-west side, from the top, almost as long as the sloped part of the Cyens, and loosen the Bark at the top of the slit with the point of your Knife.  
Have in readiness a little Instrument made of Ivory, or of a Deer or Sheep-shanck or Silver, or of some hard smooth wood; at one end let it be made of the shape of the slope part of the Cyens, but much less every way; thrust it down betwixt the Bark and wood of the Stock where it was slit, to make room for the Cyen or Graft, 
Some peel off the outmost thin, brown rind of the Graft, on the opposite side to the cut and slope part of the Graft, that must enter between the Bark of the Stock and wood, but leave on all the inner green rind, and then thrust the Graftdown between the wood and Bark of the Stock which does very well.  then take it out and put in the Cyen, but first cut a little of the Bark at the thin end of the slope of the Cyens or Graft, that it double not in going down, yet leave it with a sharp edge; and because when your Cyen is put in, it will bear the Bark hollow from the Stock, nick or slit the Bark, on each side the Cyens, so that it may fall close to the Stock, and to the edges of the Cyens; bind and Clay it as before.  
This way of Grafting is commended by some, as Mr. Langford, though others disapprove thereof; yet I have Grafted large Stocks often this way, and very successfully, but with small Stocks I seldom had the desired Success, though as careful in the operation as possible; but the first way I take to be the best for them, for these reasons.  
I. Because Stocks may be Grafted so, some years before they can be ready to Graft in the Cleft, and though Whip-grafting may be used sooner than that way, yet there are other great inconveniences attending it.  
II. The Stocks this way are less harmed than where a Cleft is used, because the Cleft lets wet into them, and rots and makes them not so fit for Grafting again, (if any fail to grow the first time) as these continue to be, though they should once miscarry.  
III. The Cyens will much sooner cover the Stock and make a more sound, healthful and swifter growing Tree.  
iv This is more speedy, easy, and sure to succeed. Therefore if the Stock exceed three Inches Diameter at the place it's cut off, the best way is to Graft in the Rind or Bark, and you may set many Grafts round the Stock, and they will sooner cover the Stock; but if the Stock be from one Inch to three Inches Diameter, then Graft in the Cleft; if under one Inch Diameter, then by slicing, Packing on, or Whip-grafting.  
Grafting in the Rind is attended with some inconvenience; for the Grafts usually make large Shoots the first Year, which in case the Wind happen to blow strongly on the opposite side of the Stock where the Graft is, commonly it is broken off, having as yet no other hold than in the Bark or Rind, and being top heavy with all, is easily broken: but after one Year the danger is past, because that which grows so plentifully at the joining of the Graft and Stock the first Year being but sappy Rind, the next Year is converted into solid Wood Some well approve by their experience the Grafting Stocks above three Inches Diameter, by placing two Grafts opposite to each other in the Cleft, and other two opposite to each other in the Bark, so that you may place four Grafts in such a large Stock, and they will soon cover the Stocks head.  
§. 3. There is another way of Grafting small Stocks called Whip-grafting; 
Whip-grafting.  and here your Graft or Cyen, and Stock ought to be exactly of the same bigness as the manner of performing it plainly shows, viz. Slope off the Cyens or Graft a full Inch or longer, and do the like to the Stock, and tie the one upon the other; both the Stock and Cyen ought to be cut at the smoothest and straightest place. You may if you will make a Shoulder on the Cyens, and cut the top of the Stock to suit with it, and then bind them together, and Clay them about the place. If you join the Inner Bark of the Cyens and Stock exactly together at either side, it will grow, though not so well as where the Cyen and Stock are of an equal proportion.  
This way called Whip-grafting, is successful enough, so that special care be taken that both Stock and Cyen suit exactly where they are joined together, which is somewhat troublesome to do; and so is it to find Cyens and Stocks of an equal bigness; besides the head will be apt to overgrow the Stocks; all that can be done to prevent it, is to Graft these very low; or if high to give the Stock more liberty to thicken by slitting the Bark of it with a Knife almost to the wood.  
In this way of Grafting there is another little Knack may be added to very good purpose, and that is, when the Stock and Cyen are prepared (as you heard before) to be joined together, to make a slit, or Notch with a Knife in the bare place of the Stock downward, beginning towards the top of the slope, and so slitting or Notching it a little way, and doing the like in the sloped face of the Cyens, but beginning at the same distance from the lower end of it, as you did before from the top of the Stock, and so carrying it upwards, and then join them by thrusting the one slice into the other, till the bare place of the Cyens cover the bare place of the Stock.  
This may be done likewise in Grafting by Packing, and in both conduceth much to strengthen the work, and is called by some Lipping, or Tounging.  
In Whip-grafting the cut parts both of the Graft and Stock, must join and answer one another from the top to the bottom.  
This way of Whip-grafting is commended by some, not only for the same reason as slitting or Packing on is, but also because the Graft soon covers the Stock, which is not impaired by slitting or cleaving, and the Graft having its Wood, as well as its Rind bound to the Stock, is not so apt to break off, as that which is Grafted only in the Rind, nor is the Graft apt to be top heavy, the Stocks being smaller afford not so plentiful Nourishment.  

Grafting in the Cleft or slit.  §. 4. The next way of Grafting is called Grafting in the Cleft, which is the most Ancient and common way of Grafting, and if carefully managed, not inferior to any other way of Grafting, though the modern Planters do something slight it: You may Graft any Stock this way, from half an Inch to three Inches Diameter, and that if the Stock be no bigger than the Graft too, if you have neat Tools, and be ready in the managery thereof, and with good success, as I have frequently experienced. The manner is thus, viz.  
Cut off the top of the Stock in some smooth and straight place, that may be answaerble to the straightness of the Graft that is put into the Cleft; if you do it with a Handsaw, cut it smooth afterwards with a Knife, leaving the top flat and even.  
Then cleave the Stock with a strong Knife, (or the Chisel before described at Sect. 2. in Chap. 2.) Let the slit run about two Inches deep, and let it be as near the middle of the Stock as you can, but not in the Pith or heart, and let the slit be on the somothest sides of the Stock. Have in readiness the Steel jinstrument before mentioned at Chap. 2. Sect. 2, or else a Stick of hard Wood near a foot long, at one end made like a Wedge; when you have taken out the Cleaver, put one end of the Instrument, or else the Wedge into the slit or cleft of the Stock, and open it so wide as to put in the Cyen, when it is prepared, and made ready for that purpose.  
Which is by cutting the Graft or Cyen from the joint, knot, or seam, if it be strait, or else from some Bad on the thicker end of the last years Shoot or Sprout down aslope on both Sides, 
The slope cut off the Graft should be an Inch and half long at least, if the Stock be big enough to allow it.  something more than an Inch long, making it thin at the bottom, and in shape like a Wedge, very smooth and even without dints or rise, that it may join close all along; so far as it goes into the Cleft of the Stock, let the outside of the Graft or Cyen be somewhat thicker than the inner side, unless the Stock be so big as to pinch the Cyens or Graft much, then make the Cyen or Graft as thick on that side that goes into the Stock as on the outside, which will prevent the Stocks hurting the Sappy part, and Bark of the Cyens or Graft, by preserving the outside from being pinched too much.  
You may let the Graft or Cyen have on the uppermost part of the slope, a shoulder on one side, or both, or neither; all these ways are used, but shouldering takes up more time, and makes the Cyens or Graft weaker, and so apt by chance to be broke off; then with your sharp Penknife cut away any Jags, or roughness, or blackness that remains after cleaving, on each side of the Cleft of the Stock within, and so put in either one, or two Cyens or Grafts; if the Stock be large, place them so as the passage of the Sap betwixt the Bark and Wood both of the Stock, and Cyen or Graft may meet and join all along the Cleft as near as you can; for you must be sure always to join the inner side of the Bark of the Cyens or Graft to the inner side of the Bark of the Stock all along the Cleft, that the Sap may come out of the Stock to feed the Graft and make it grow.  
The Graft being thus placed in the Stock draw forth the Instrument, or Wedge, and Clay them close on every side, and an Inch above the top of the Stock, and an Inch below the bottom of the Cleft, and keep Clay on about the Grafted part until the Stock be covered with the Graft, and it will be the sounder Tree.  
If you put but one Graft or Cyen in (which is best unless the Stock be large,) then cut off a piece with a slope cut from the top of the Stock about an Inch and half deep on the worst side of the Stock, the Graft being to be put on the straightest and smoothest side, in cutting the Stock thus, the Graft will cover over the sooner.  
Many cleave big Stocks crosswise again, and put in two more Cyens; but cleaving hurts the Stocks so much that it's better (if you will have more than two Cyens in one Stock) Graft the other two in the Bark, according to the second way of Grafting, but forecasting one of them to be on the West side of the Stock; But two Grafts are enough for any Stock.  
It's an Erroneous practice to set the outside of the Stock and Graft even and smooth; because the Bark of a big Stock is much thicker than the Bark of a slender Graft, and consequently if the outside be smooth and even, the inside must needs be uneven, but where the Graft and Stock are almost of an equal proportion, there you may set them smooth on the outside, but where the Stock is large, set the cut part of the Graft more inward into the Cleft of the Stock.  
When you cut Grafts it's very convenient to leave a Bud or two on the outside of the cut place, that in case any of the Grafts happen to be broken off, such Bud or Buds on the outside, will spring out, and supply the defect, although the Graft be broken off, even to the top of the Stock; or you may leave the Bud just at the shoulder where the Graft joins to the top of the Stock, and it will answer the said intentions.  
The only objection that is raised against Grafting in the Cleft, is, that the Stock being slit or cloven, the Rain is apt to get in and decay the Stock, and sometimes the Graft too, therefore caution must be used, not only the first year, but until the head of the Stock be covered with the Graft, to keep well tempered Clay on the Grafted part both, of Cyen and Stock, and that as far as the Cleft extends itself, to keep out both Wet and Air.  
I have Grafted this way Stocks from half an Inch to above three Inches Diameter, and that very successfully, observing the aforesaid rules, but a Stock of about an Inch Diameter is the best to use in this way of Grafting, which I like as well as any other, notwithstanding the opinion of all modern Planters is to the contrary.  
There is one small observation necessary to be noted in Cleft-Grafting, and of no little concernment to make Grafts thrive well, which is to cut the Graft so as to be set as deep into the Stock as possible, so as the Stock be not clove too far, which is by making the cut part of the Graft to be an Inch and half long, or longer if the Stock be large, and thereby the Graft will attract more Sap, and make a larger Graft by much, than one cut but short from the Knot, Seam, or Bud. Therefore for that end make the cut part of the Graft an Inch and half long at least.  

Side grafting.  §. 5. Side-Grafting is done by preparing the Cyens or Graft as in Whip-grafting, then without cutting off the head of the Stock, (but making it thin of side-Branches) from a smooth Place of it on the West side, take off as much Bark as the Cyens will cover, as in Packing, and slit both Cyen and Stock accordingly as is directed in the third Sect. and fix them together accordingly; bind it close, and Clay it.  
If it grow at a years end cut off the top of the Stock at the Grafted Place slopewise, and Clay it.  
Some done thus grow well, but suffer not the top of the Stock much to overgrow the Cyen the first year before it's cut quite off.  
Some use another way, that is, to slit the Bark of the Stock in the form of a great T, and loosening it with the point of a Knife, and then clapping in a Cyen, prepared as hath been said before, (but without the slit for Lipping) bind and Clay it; this can be only used when the Bark will part from the Stock.  

Grefting by Approach.  §. 6. There is another way called Grafting by Approach, Ablactation, or Enarching, which is by having a Stock or Stocks grow so near another Tree, whose Fruit you would propagate, that the Stock and the Branch of that Tree may be joined together in the manner following.  
Cut the side of the Branch, and of the Stock (where they will meet) about three Inches in length, till you come near the Pith of each, and fit them both together, that the passage of the Sap may join, and the green inner side of the Bark of the Stock and Tree; in which posture bind and Clay them: Assoon as you find the Cyen and Stock to be well cemented together, cut off the head of the Stock about four Inches above the binding, and in March following, cut off the Stub you left of the Stock, and also the Cyen underneath, close to the Grafted place, that it may subsist by the Stock only.  
It is also used to be done by cutting off the head of the Stock at first, and sloping half off about two Inches long, and joining the Cyen thereunto, being cut accordingly.  
This manner of Grafting is unnecessary, and scarcely practicable in common Fruit-trees, but for Oranges, Lemons, Pomgranats, Vines, Jessamines and such like Shrubs, it may be used. Also it's said that Trees of different kinds will sooner take this way than any other.  
§. 7. I once saw a man Graft half a dozen small Stocks thus; After he had cut off the top of the Stock, he cut it on each side from the top a slope about an Inch and half, directly like a Wedg reversed, than he clove with his Penknife the Graft from the bottom in the middle of the Graft an Inch and half, than he placed this Graft on the S●ock, one side of the Graft on one side of the Stock, and the other on the other, but joined Sap to Sap, and then bound and Clayd it; these Grafts took well, and it's an easy way of Grafting.  
§. 8. Some have an Iron Instrument made for the purpose, which will make a Nick or Notch in the Stock up to its head, an Inch and half long through the Bark, and some depth into the Wood, in form of an v, or rather after this form, V, then fit the Graft, and put it into the Noch, joying Sap to Sap, and bind them together with Bass, and Clay them. This way is much commended.   

CHAP. IU. Of Inoculating.  
§. 1. INoculating is the taking off a Bud from one Tree, and putting it between the Bark and the Wood of another Tree or Stock; the end and intention is the same with other ways of Grafting; and moreover by this way, divers sorts of Fruits, which are not apt to take or grow by ordinary ways of Grafting, are by this easily increased.  

The manner of Inoculating.  §. 2. About a fortnight before or after Midsummer (which is the best time, though it may be done from the beginning of May until August) when you have pitched upon such Stocks as are fit to be Inoculated, to get the Bud from, choose out a strong and well liking Branch, or Shoot of that years growth, upon a Tree that bears exceeding well, and such kind of Fruits as you would by this operation produce, and about the mid le, or lower end of it, (for the top will be too tender) fix upon a leaf that hath a fresh and fair Bud growing out betwixt it and the Bark, and about half an Inch below and above the Bud, cut off the Branch, and so you will have a piece of it about an Inch long remaining, with a Bud and Leaf on, this you must cleave just through the midst, so as the Bud may be directly in the middle of the one half; and then snip off a part of the Leaf; and holding it by the remainder, clap it to a smooth Strait place on the Stock, and with a Penknife score out, on each side of it, so much of the Stock as it covers, or rather a little broader, (because when the Bark on which the Bud is, is taken off from its own Wood, and applied to the Stock, it will cover a wider space of the Stock than it did before) After you have thus marked your Stock, withdraw the Cyen again, and cut the Bark through where you had marked it; then cut the Bark cross and strait from the uppermost end of one score to the upper end of the other, and cut the Bark again cross and strait from one score to the other, but not so low as the Lower ends of the scores, by a quarter of an Inch; then take the oblong square piece of Bark, that is cut on every side, quite off the Stock, and raise up that part of the Bark that remains betwixt the side-scores at the bottom of the work, from the Wood, till you come to the lower end of the side-scores.  
Take then a Goose-quill, cut in the fashion of an Apple-scoop, or scraper, and having with your Nail a little loosened the upper part of that Bark that is on the Cyens, thrust the Quill betwixt the Bark and the Wood, that it may separate them, and take off with the Bark a little Wood or Root of the Bud over against it: If you see a hole on the inside over against the Bud, when you have taken the Bark off, cast it away, that little labour is lost, and try another till you find it otherwise.  
Then put in the lower end of that Bark or Cyen betwixt the Bark that was raised on the Stock and the Wood, and so bind it on the Stock gently with Woollen-yarn, or narrow Shreds of Linen Cloth, or gentle Stuff, or with Bases, or Bast, of which the Russia Mats are made, but so that the Cyen may Lie close to the Wood of the Stock that was made bare, and have an especial care that you hurt not the Bud.  
§. 3. There are some other ways of Inoculating used, differing only in the manner of the cut, both in the Bark of the Stock, and of the Cyens.  
And first, some proceeding in all other things, as is before directed, cut the Bark out of the whole length of the side-scores, and apply the Cyen to the disbarked place.  
§. 4. Others cut one slit only down the Bark of the Stock, and another cross the the top of it, like a great T, when this is done, they prepare the Cyens or Bark as before directed (only cutting it sharp pointed at the lower end before they take the Bud off its Wood) Then raise the Bark of the Stock up on each side the slit, and put in the Cyen, beginning at the top and sliding it downward gently, and let the top of the Bud join close to the cross-cut in the upper end, and so bind the Bark gently upon it, but not just upon the Bud: This is the common way used by gardiner's.  
§. 5. Others make the cross-cut in the middle of the downright score on the Stock, and lifting up the four corners of the Bark, and making the Cyen sharp at both ends, put it under the Bark of the Stock at both ends, and then bind it; but in doing this, there is danger of hurting the Bud or Cyen.  
§. 6. Mr. Rea commends the making the cross-cut at the lower end of the downright cut, and having opened the sides, put in the Cyen upwards, being made sharp at the upper end only.  
You must be nimble and quick in Inoculating, and preparing the Bud, else the Air by sudden drying the Bud or Cyen and the cut part of the Stock will much be hurt.  
Thus much to satisfy the curiosity of such as have a mind to make trial of every way, but the first is esteemed best.  

Necessary rules and observations on Inoculaing.  §. 7. Lest one Bud fail, or any mischance break it, put two in every Stock, but not directly under one another on the same side of the Stock. The Branch or Shoot, you cut one Cyen off may yield you several.  
§. 8. About a Month after the Inoculating, or sooner if you perceive the Bark swell where the binding is, cut off the binding.  
If it grow it will fix to the Stock, keep its colour, and that part of the Leaf and Stalk that was left, will drop off, and the Bud appear fair; Then sometime before the next Spring, cut off the top of the Stock a hands breath above the place it was Inoculated at, and all the side-branches that grow any where upon the Stock; and at Spring the Bud will put forth; and if any other Sprouts or Buds appear on the Stock, cut them off.  
§. 9 If the first Inoculation fail, or the Buds die, the Stocks may be Inoculated again the next Summer, and of such as are Inoculated timely in the year, it may be sometimes seen whether they grow or not, time enough to Inoculate them again the same year.  
§. 10. Apricocks will have Buds ready sooner than other Fruit, so that you may begin with them and follow with the other.  
§. 11. Stocks raised of Peach-stones are commonly big enough to be Inoculated the second Summer, sometimes the First after they are set: when they or any other stocks are an Inch and half in compass, or thereabouts, they are big enough to be Inoculated.  
§. 12. Those you intent for Wall or Dwarf-trees, are to be Inoculated within a handful of the ground, and not Pruned at all, till you remove them, and then you will better see what's necessary to be cut off; and these you may remove after one years' growth, or two, with more safety.  
If you Inoculate any Plums, Pears, Cherries, or other Fruit, that you intent for an Orchard, or other place for tall Standards, you may do it higher on the Stocks, viz. six or seven foot high, and Prune these up in the Nursery, and let them grow there, two or three years (according as they grow in height) before they be removed.  
§. 13. After Stocks that are Inoculated have made one or two years' growth, you must cut off the head of the Stock, that remained above the Bud: At your first cutting it, cut it close to the new Branches, that it may grow over the cut; let it be cut a little slope, and Clayed over, if you desire the Branch should quickly cover it; and the sooner it doth the better.  
§. 14. Care must be had in choosing Branches or Shoots from which you are to have your Buds, that they be of Shoots of the same years growth you Inoculate; and of strong growth, the Bark firm, and not spongy; suffer them to fade as little as may be before you use them; and the Shoots must be got from Trees that your own or others experience can faithfully assure you not only to be good Fruit, but very good bearers; and if the Fruit you design to raise, be at such a distance that you cannot have Buds to Inoculate the same day they are cut, put them in wet Moss or Grass in a Box, and so they will keep a day and a night very well. But if by carriage in the Air or otherwise they are a little withered, you may revive them by setting them in water, which will make the Buds come cleaner from the Wood  
§. 15. Nectarins, Peaches, and Apricocks are seldom raised otherwise than by Inoculation; because they will rarely or never grow by Grafting; but Pears, Cherries, or Plums take and grow full as well by Grafting as Inoculation. The Bark of Cyens taken from some Plums, is so tender and spongy they will often miscarry when Inoculated: such one be sure to raise rather by Grafting, though many Plums will hit very well being Inoculated.  
Cyens of Apples fail for the most part, when you Inoculate Buds of them, because their Bark is tender, and Buds weak.  
Cherries and Pears take very sure being Inoculated on young fresh Stocks, whose Bark is not very thick.  
§. 16. Upon consideration of all, I advise the Planter to raise all his Fruit-trees by Grafting, as being both the surest and easiest way; only his Peaches, Nectarins, and Apricocks can be propagated only by Inoculating; yet where Inoculating succeeds well, it's esteemed and preferred before Grafting, for the following reasons. 1. Because the Stock will be big enough to Inoculate by two or three years' sooner than to Graft, and your Plant groweth much faster after the nature is so altered than it did before, and will be sooner ready to transplant than if it be suffered to grow two or three years longer, as it must be before it be ready to be Grafted. 2. It makes a sounder Tree than one that is Grafted, especially in the Cleft; because it covereth the Stock speedily and well. 3. It hurts not the Stock so much as Grafting; and if it chance to fail, it may be Inoculated next year again, and sometimes the same year. 4. Some look upon Inoculating to be more speedy, easy and delightsome than Grafting, and may be practised by Gentlemen, who in June may lie on the ground and do it; whereof they cannot so well bear the cold without danger of taking hurt in February, or March, which is the choice of Grafting season.  
If you do Inoculate any Buds of Pear, Cherry, or Plum, let the Shoots be very strong and large, but you had better Graft them.  
§. 17. Not only the Pith, but also the Wood of the Bud is cast away in Inoculating, and nothing made use of but the Buds and Bark of any young Shoot, and yet they bring forth the same Fruit as the Tree whence they are got.  
§. 18. It's debated among Planters what time of the day is best for Inoculating; 
Time of the day to Inoculate.  some persons argue stiffly for the morning; because there pasleth up much more Sap or juice in the daytime than in the night, as they observe in piercing the Birch-Tree, and other Trees to get the liquor out of them for Physical uses; and consequently the Bud Inoculated in the morning, must be more likely to grow, having the whole days plenty of Sap to invite it to unite with the Stock, than if it be Inoculated late in the day, and so must be discouraged in its new habitation by the niggardly provision of the nights Sap.  
If you follow this advice, you had best wrap some broad Leaves or Fern about the Stock; so as to shade the Cyens from the Scorching heat of the day following, to prevent its drying before the Stock hath undertaken the charge of preserving it.  
But this work may be done in the heat of the day, if the heat be not violent, and then you must (as at all times you ought) be very quick in the doing of it.  
And for all that hath been said before, the afternoon may be as good a time as any; because if the Bud have less liquor afforded it in the night, than the coolness of that time makes it less thirsty; and as it's thirst increaseth by the heat of the next day, a more plentiful Stream will be very seasonable to satisfy it.   

CHAP. V Of Pruning Fruit-Trees.  
§. 1. AFter Grafts have had their full growth the first year, they must be Pruned, such as need it; Those that are Grafted low and yet must be made Standards, or tall Trees, leave only one Shoot, the strongest and biggest, and let not that Shoot begin to spread until it be seven foot high at least; therefore cut off all the side-branches, till they are grown to the hight you desire. If to spread low, let some be left on each side, that the boughs on any one side may grow strait upright. As for Wall-plants it's not matter of how many Branches they spread, the more the better. Now unless young Grafts put forth a strong and lusty Shoot, Prune not off all the side-branches, lest the body of the Plant be too small and limber to bear his head; therefore if the body be very slender suffer some of the side-twigs to grow, until the Body be of a sufficient strength to bear the top, and from year to year Prune off those Shoots and Branches as are superfluous, and grow too near one another, interfere, fret and gall each other, and preserve only such as are fit to make the Tree of a comely form; and suffer them not the first three years (at least) to grow thick and bushy-headed, by cutting off some of the inside-shoots, and such as grow cross one another, or pendent.  
§. 2. What you cut off the Body, or any Branch, do it close and even, that the Bark may grow over it.  
§. 3. If you cut part of any Shoot, or of a Cyens for Grafting, cut it close at a Bud, that the cut may be covered with a fresh Sprig, and the wound may again grow up, and a Stub-end not be left behind.  
§. 4. At what height soever, or wheresoever you would have the Tree, or any Branch, or Shoot to spread, there top it, that is cut off a Bud, an Inch of the very top close at a Bud, and there it will spread.  
§. 5. When Trees grow big that a Knife will not Prune them, use the broad Chisel (mentioned in Chap. 2. Sect. 2.) with which, and a Mallet, you may take off a Bough or large Branch, as you will, without either hurting the Bark of the Tree, by cutting too near, or leaving a Stump, by not cutting near enough; one of which is not easily avoided by the chance blows of an Axe, or Hatchet, and being amongst thick boughs your Chisel and Mallet will be more governable than other Instruments; If the boughs are very large you may use a Saw first, and then smooth it with the Chisel.  
§. 6. Trees growing in Orchards, Fields, or Hedges, etc. must be Pruned from year to year as need is, in November, or December, by cutting off superfluous Branches and such as cross one another, and grow too close; leave no dead Twigs or Branches, and scrape off the Moss on the body, or Branches of the Tree.  
§. 7. Concerning the Pruning and ordering of Wall-trees, see hereafter, Chap. 10. And you must not Prune those Plants you intent for the Wall, until transplanted and set at the Wall.  
§. 8. Prune not much and often, if you love Fruit more than a Tree to thrive in Wood; therefore whilst your Tree is young, bring it unto a handsome shape and order, and when it comes to beat Fruit forbear Pruning, unless in case of broken, or such boughs as grow cross, or gall, or fret others.  

Touching the height of Fruit-trees.  §. 9 And here I must beg leave to thwart and contradict the opinions of all our modern Planters, who applaud the making Trees not to be above an ell high before they spread: Their reasons are these that follow. 

1. Because the low Trees sooner attain to be Fruitbearing Trees, and grow fairer than the tall; the Sap and juice wasting in its long ball and passage, which in the shorter Trees expends itself soon in the Branches.  
2. You may Plant more of them in the like quantity of Land, because the shadow of the one Tree doth not reach the ground of the other, as that of the tall Tree doth.  
3. The lower and broad spreading Tree is the greater bearer, by reason the blossoms in the Spring are not so obvious to the bitter Blasts, nor the Fruit in the Autumn to the fierce and destructive Winds.  
4. Fruits are more easily gathered from a low than a tall Tree, beating or shaking down Fruit from such Trees being to be rejected by all judicious Cyderists.  
5. Any Fruit on a low well spread Tree, is better and fairer than that on a tall Tree, by the same reason that the Tree is fairer, because the Sap is not so much wasted in the low and humble Tree, as in the tall and lofty by its large Trunk.    
Notwithstanding these reasons seem plausible, yet experience assures, that a Tree of a reasonable height (I mean not high like Timber Trees) bears as well as the lower, and if you observe a due distance, which ought to be, the shade will not be injurious; and though Fruit on a low Tree is easily gathered, yet the other may be with some little pains gathered well enough.  
But if you design to use the Land under, or about the Trees you plant, either in Orchard, Field, or Hedge, for the Sith, Spade, or grazing of Cattle especially, let your Trees be seven foot high at least before they begin to spread, because you can scarce so cautiously preserve them, but Cattle will sometime or other get into your Orchard, and then they will not a little endamage your Fruit-trees, if low, by nipping off the Buds of all boughs within their reach; and if you chance to farm the Orchard, your Tenants in despite of all Covenants to the contrary, will either be negligent, malicious, or so covetous as to permit  to Graze in the Orchard, to your no little damage, which by letting them be seven foot high before they begin to spread, will be infallibly prevented. But where you intent Trees for Table-fruit to he set in the Borders of Gardens or Walks, there you may let them spread within an ell and less of the Earth, as you shall hereafter be more fully instructed.  
§. 10. In Pruning Trees be cautious of cutting off the small Sprigs, which are the more apt to bear Fruit, it being too usual for ignorant Planters, to beautify their Trees, by taking off these superfluous branches (as they term them) whereby they deprive themselves of the Furit.  
§. 11. Cherry-trees must be Grafted at the hight you would have them spread, about six or seven Foot high, unless for the Wall, and then within a Foot of the ground.  
§. 12. Prune the Heads of some sort of Trees that have but small Pith as Appletrees, Pear-trees, etc. when you remove them, to proportion the Branch and Root as near as you can; but Cherry-trees, Plum-trees, Walnut-trees, etc. that have a large Pith are not to be top't, only some of the side Branches may be taken away.  
If you cut part of any Shoot, or a Cyen for Grafting, cut it close at a Bud or Sprig, and the wound will again grow up, and a Stub end not left behind.   

CHAP. VI Touching the Distance of Fruit-Trees.  

Distance of Orchard-trees.  §. 1. THe distance of Trees in Orchards ought not to be less than eight Yards, neither need it be more than 13, or 14; the richer the Land is, the greater distance you ought to set the Trees at from one another, to which you ought to have respect, and also to the kinds of Fruit-trees you plant; for some Trees take up more room than others, as most Appletrees more than Pear-trees, and some Appletrees more than others, according to their aptness to grow more or less, too tedious and difficult to be here related; only the Red-streak being Generally a desired Fruit, you may take notice that it's one of the least Appletrees; where it yields the best Cider, sometimes it's almost but a Shrub, the Winter Pear-main, Golden-renating, and John-apple, are Trees that spread not much, but the Gregory-pippin, a Fruit-Tree in Lancashire, is a mighty spreader, even on course Land, grows well and quickly, and is an excellent Fruit for any use, and th● Trees great bearers, and the Fruit will easily keep until the following May.  
§. 2 As to the distance Wall-fruit-trees are to be set at, 
Distance of Wall-trees.  where they are to grow, you may learn that best by considering their aptness to spread; Apricocks and some other kinds of Plums spread most, the May Cherry●, and some others are of a very small growth, it's impossible to give Rules for all, but the general distance is about four yards asunder.  

Cherry and Coddling Hedge distances.  §. 3. Of late times it's used to make Cherry-hedges in Gardens and Orchards, and Hedges of coddlings, Nurs-gardens, Plums, and such like Trees that may be kept by cutting and plaishing one Branch within another, and from growing very large; these are usually made along the side of Walks, or round about a Garden-plot, and are Ornamental to a Garden being ordered and kept handsomely.  
Trees for these purposes are to be set about a yard, or an ell asunder; for they should near meet the first year, and should be thus ordered, viz. stretch a line from one end to the other where the Hedge is to be made, and set the Trees strait at the distance aforesaid: Afterwards knock down a Stake betwixt each Tree, then having strait long Rods, or Poles of Ash, or the like; tie a row of them from one end to the other (about a foot from the ground) fast to the Stakes with Osiers, or such like, or else nail them, which is better, and another row of Rods a foot above them, and so a third if need be, according to the height of the young Plants; Having thus done spread and tie the Branches of the Twigs of the Trees in order to the Poles, but not too hard, and draw and fasten some of them down close to the ground, that so there may be Blossoms and Fruit from the bottom to the top, which will be a beautiful sight in the Spring and Summer: Then after a few years the Stakes and Poles may be taken away, and the Branches plaited and woven one within another from year to year, and the superfluous ones cut off.  

Reasons for a large distance in setting Trees.  §. 4. For many respects Trees ought to be planted at a large distance, especially for the following reasons. 

1. The Plantation will be little Annoyance to the Land, if either you set Goosberries, Currens, Raspberries, Strawberries, or Garden stuff in it; sow Corn on it while the Trees are young, or graze it when they are grown up.  
2. Whereas some say the more Trees the more Fruit; that's absolutely false; for when they are set so close, that the Sun cannot have a good influence on them, by refreshing the Roots, Body, Branches, Blossoms and Fruits, they bear poorly, and ripen worse; and close-set Trees in a few years when they should bear Fruits, crowd, fret, and gall one another, and by rubbing often cause the Canker.  
3. They cannot grow to be Trees of that size as they would (if the Land be good) being set at a good distance, and some kind of Trees being of stronger and swifter growth than others, will so domineer over their neighbours, that they will make them almost good for nothing; and one Tree that is set at a fair distance will bear oftener, and more Fruit than three, or four Trees set close, as is daily seen by some Appletrees that grow single, or in a Hedge.  
4. You may Plant betwixt every Tree, a Cherrytree, Plum-tree, or Codling-tree, which may grow up and bear with the other Trees many years, and never reach or Prejudice them, but will decay before the others are at full growth; Or you may set a young Appletree, or Pear-tree betwixt every two of your Standards that you set in the Orchard, and nurse it up with necessary dressing and Pruning seven or eight years, or less time, to transplant into Fields or Pasture-land, where Cattle feed; whereby with little help it will not be in such danger of hurt from  as small ones would, and bear Fruit soon after it's set, and you cannot let them grow so long in your Nursery without galling, fretting, or hurting one another, unless when you remove Trees out of your Nursery, you take care to leave every other Tree, whereby they may have liberty to grow big, and so more fit for your Fields.    
As for Standard Cherry-trees, Plum-trees, and the like, six yard's distance is the most convenient, unless the ground be exceeding rich, and then a greater distance, as seven or eight yards asunder.   

CHAP. VII. Choice of Ground for an Orchard, and the ordering it.  
SO far as it lieth in one's power to choose a plot of Ground for an Orchard, let it be done with respect to the following advantages  
§. 1. It should lie conveniently near him, declining and lying open towards the South, Southeast, or South-west, and defended from the North, North-east, and Northwest Winds by buildings, Woods, or higher Grounds; the Land should rather incline to dryness than moisture, without Springs, the Soil deep and a fat Earth, not a stiff, cold Clay, or binding Gravel, nor a light, sandy, esky or hollow Earth; yet with good Husbandry, if it run not into the extremes of any of these, Fruit-trees may prosper reasonably well in it.  
§. 2. The natural Soil for an Orchard is more to be respected than a Garden; for the Garden Fruit-trees, and what else groweth there, rooteth little deeper than it may be easily manured; but Pear-trees and Appletrees in Orchards should grow to be large Trees, and therefore send forth Roots broad and deep, so that it transcends all cost and pains to enrich the Ground for them, as far as the Roots every way reach.  
§. 3. But they that are seated or fixed in any place, and cannot conveniently change their habitation, must be content with their own, and if any defect or disadvantage be in it, it may be it hath some advantage that another wants, if it lie to the North, the Trees Bud and Blossom the later, and many times the Fruit thereby succeeds the better, and is free from the injurious South-winds in the Autumnal season.  
§. 4. If it lie to the East, it hath not only the advantage of being later Budded, and blown, because of the cold Easterly Winds in the Spring, but the Fruit ripens the better, the morning Sun in the Summer being by much the best, and the Fruits freed from the Western Winds, which with the South are the worst.  
§. 5. If your Land be on a dry, or rising Ground, you may Plant them the thicker, which will cover and shade the Ground the sooner, and make them bear the better; the Fruit will also yield a more vinous Liquor.  
§. 6. If your Ground lie in a cold moist Vale, the sooner may you raise a natural Fence about it, to defend your Trees from cold Winds, and stiff Gusts, which diversely annoy your Trees and Fruits; and I once knew a person that had a cold moist flat springey plot of Ground, who caused double Ditches to be made therein, at ten yard's distance, each from other, and about an Ell high; upon these Ditches he planted Appletrees each ten yards distant from another, which Trees did grow, prosper, and bear exceeding well.  
§. 7. But if you have liberty to choose what Land you will for Planting of Fruit-trees, observe the directions given in the first Section of this Chap. and choose a warm, light Rye-land, or either a black or brown mould, if with a mixture of Sand, so much the better, but the heavy cold and moist Wheatland is not so good.  
§. 8. If the Ground be very light and rich of it , or so made by improvement, several sorts of Appletrees, especially the Pippin, will be so apt to canker, that they will scarce ever be large Trees; therefore a firm and strong Land; is best for Winter or long lasting Fruit; but for Summer-fruit, Land cannot be too light; the more it inclines to redness the better.  

How to qualify the Ground.  §. 9 If the Land you intent for it be a Turf or Green-sward, you ought to Blow it two years before you set your Trees in it, to make it mellow and lose, that the Trees may be better take Root, and you may then lay on Manure, which by Ploughing will be well mixed with the natural Soil, and use such Manure as will best suit to amend it; and if you sow the Ground about ten days after the Midsummur before you Plant, with Turnips, and when they are got off, which will be about November, if you please, then set your Trees, they will like well.  
§. 10. Where the natural Soil is not good of itself, whether it be in Garden, Orchard, or Field, there it ought to be by skill assisted and bettered, at least wise for such a compass as the Roots of every Tree take up for some time, if not so far round as they are ever like to extend themselves.  
And this must be done by mixing such Manures with the Soil as suit best with its temper. If the Soil be Clay, or Clay mixed with Gravel or wet heavy Land, hot Dung, as that of Horses, or Poultry, or for want of that, of Oxen or Cows is best to mix with it, to bring it to a due temperament.  
And if the Soil be light, hollow, esky, or sandy Land; Marle, Mud out of a Pond, Ditch, or River, or shovelings of Dirty yards or Highways, if they be not Sandy, and be well Mellowed, by lying on heaps, and especially if those heaps are mixed with Lime, are proper to mend it.  
If this last Soil be barren likewise, you may properly add a mixture of Neat's Dung.  
It hath been seen that an Appletree on a Hemp-but, which was constantly Ploughed, and Manured to a great richness, bore more Apples than four such Trees in an Orchard would do; and it's constantly seen in Barren hungry Land, Trees thrive poorly, grow Mossey, or Bark-bound, bearing seldom, and that a poor Fruit: Only Walnut-trees and Pear-trees do not necessarily require a very rich Ground, and will prosper best on Stony, and light Land.  
If your Land be too rich (which is seldom seen) you may mix Coal-ashes with it.  

Moist Land to order.  §. 11. If your Land is very flat, that wet is apt to stand upon it, or be a shallow Soil, you may something help it in Ploughing, also by gathering the Land always up in and near the place where you intent the Rows of Trees shall afterwards stand, which in two years' time will something raise it, and thicken the Soil, and the Furrows so made will help to carry off the Water, or which is better, raise the Land on broad Ridges, that the middle of them may be about 24, or 30 Foot distance, according as you intent to Plant your Trees: Let the Intervals between the Ridges be about eight Foot broad, and the Earth taken up between, about a Foot deep, and cast on the Ridges which will make the Ground thicker of the best Soil than before it was, that the Roots of the Trees you Plant on the Ridges cannot run down, nor spread into the bad Soil, which otherwise it would do; by this means the Trees will thrive and prosper well, as may be perceived on the Banks of some Land, and the Hedges, that Appletrees will thrive better there than on the Level-land.  

Moist Land to order.  §. 12. If it be a Springey moist or spewy Land, you must Trench it at the head of the Spring, and that deeper than the channel of the Spring runs in the Earth, which you may leave open, and yearly cleanse, or fill it up with Alder or Oler-boughs, and cover them with the Turf and Earth that came forth, much higher than the other Land; for the Wood and lose Earth will sink very much by degrees; or you may dig several narrow Trenches, one between each Row of Trees, descending to some Ditch at the lower end of your Ground, and lay in the bottom of it Alder-frith, or Faggots of Beech, and fill the Trenches again on the said Frith or Faggots with Earth, as aforesaid, and the Water will insinuatingly pass through the said Wood to the lower side of the Ground, leaving the rest dryer; but if you cannot easily do this, order it as at the foregoing Section.  
§. 13. If it be Springey, but only lie so low and flat that in the Winter Rain or Land-floods will lie upon it, and that it hath been lately Ploughed, or that you'll not lose two years' time by Ploughing it before you set your Trees, or if it be shallow or ebb Soil, you may set your Trees by Tumping.  

Hot dry Land to order.  §. 14. If your Ground be a hot dry Sandy shallow Land, Marle laid on the surface and there spread, will cool, sadden, and make it rich; or if you can, cause the Current of some Rill of Water, or rather Water that runs from Pools, Ponds, or Dunghills, to over flow it sometimes, which will not only moisten, but make the Ground fertile also, and the Trees prosper well.  
Fern or any other vegetables, nay Stones covering such Land, will preserve it cool and moist.  

Gravelly-ground to order.  §. 15. Gravel-grounds are as bad as any; because a Tree in them cannot Root to any great bigness; and if Muck, or other Soils be laid to the Roots of Trees in such Land, the Gravel will in a few years eat it up, and convert it unto its own nature; but if a little Stony, a mixture of Mould among the Stones, and at the digging to pick our the largest Stones, than Trees will Root indifferent well in such Grounds.  

Overflown Land.  §. 16. If Land be subject to be overflown by the inundation of Rivers, or other falls of Water, so as the Water stand not too long upon it, nor the Land be of a stiff cold nature, it's very good for Fruit-trees.  

Of uneven Ground.  §. 17. If there be any unevenness in the Land, some direct to levelly it, by carrying the Banks into the low places; but this will not only be very chargeable, but hurtful, by making the high places too barren, and the low Ground too rich.  
But that your Trees may grow somewhat level in their tops, and not one overshade another, and also appear comely, you may forecast to set such Trees as grow pendant, or are not apt to grow tall Trees, on the highest Ground, and such as are aspiring in the lower places.  

The Fence and Order of Trees in an Orchard,  §. 18. Enclose your Orchard with a good double Ditch about four Foot high, and plant thereon two Rows of good Hawthorn, or Whitethorn, which will be an excellent Fence by the time that the Fruit-trees bear, to keep out  from cropping the tender Twigs of the Fruit-trees, and rubbing against their Stems, and unruly People from destroying the Fruit. Good White-thorn being the best Quick-fence for your Orchard, when it's grown up may be plaished, the better to prevent Hogs or Sheep for creeping into it. Set no smooth Quick in it, that may grow to great Trees, because they will be hurtful both to the Hedge and Fruit-trees, both by their tops and Roots when they are grown up: Having set two Rows of good Hawthorn, and made the dead Hedge on the outside the Ditch, the Quickset will grow the faster, for the dead Hedge upon the Ditch is apt to choke the Quicksets, and thus with sometimes Weeding it you may soon raise a good Fence.  
If you have an old Hedge already about your Orchard, scour the Ditch and plaish the Hedge, and cut down all big Trees that grow in it, unless on the North, and Westside, the one requiring a defence to keep the Orchard warm, the other to secure it somewhat from the strong Winds, that blow down the Fruit before its ripe, though it's far better they grow on the outside the Hedge.  
On the outside of your Orchard, not too near the Hedge, if it be not well defended by Hills, Buildings, or the like; Plant on the North-side, two or three Rows of Walnut-trees, thicker than is usually done on other accounts, to preserve the Orchard from the cold Northern Air.  
Some are also for Planting a Defence on the westside, to protect them from the brisk Autumnal Winds, which blow down the Fruit before ripe.  
Within the Orchard on the North-side, set the first Rows of Pear-trees, or such other Trees as you know are apt to grow tallest, and the rest , as they decrease in height, as near as you can judge; for so shall all your Trees share in great measure of the South-sun, and will be less liable to receive damage by the Northern old: The best way you can set Trees in an Orchard is according to the Figure called a Quincunx, by Planting them at an equal distance every way, only with this observation, that every Tree of the second Row may stand against the middle of the space of the First; in the Third against the space of the Second; and so through out, which makes an Orchard appear pleasant to the Eye in what part soever thereof you stand.  
§. 19 If your Soil be not rich enough, once in three or four years in the Wintertime, 
Baring the Roots of Trees-in Winter.  open the Earth for a good space round about the body of each Tree, and about a Month after with some proper Manure mixed with what came forth, fill up the hole again; but if you dig or Blow your Land, you will have no need to do this so long; and if your Trees were set by tumping, you need not do this, till the Roots are grown past the Ditch that was made about the Tump.  

Muck-water good for the Roots of Fruit-trees.  §. 20. The Water that soaks from a Dunghill, is an excellent thing to enrich the Earth about the Roots of Trees, and if your Orchard chance to lie so as that it may be floated sometimes, you may do it after this manner.  
Make a little Trench along the upper part of the Orchard, and from it cut a small Gutter down every row of Trees, take off the upper Turf for half a yards breadth round about every Tree, at about a Foots breadth distance from the body, when a rainy day comes, let this soak down one Row, so that (as near as you can) every Tree may enjoy it three or four days at several times in one Winter  
If your Orchard stand so that you cannot convey this Water to the Trees after this manner, you may carry two or three pale-full to every Tree twice or thrice a year, and pour it in where the Roots were opened, and against Spring put in the Earth again; when you do this first, stir up with something the bottom of this Water the more to thicken and enrich it.  
This will follow the Roots and more enrich the Trees than can be done by Manure, or Dung, so that you suffer the Water not to be above a days time at once upon any one Tree.  

Plant Fruit proper for the Soil and Climate.  §. 21. Some judgement is required from the Planter in setting each Tree or Plant in the proper Climate and So I it most delights in, or in adapting Plants to the Nature of each Soil you have to Plant; for Trees will strangely prosper, grow and bear in Soil and Ground they like, comparatively to what they will do if they are Planted in Ground wherein they delight not.  
The Apple itself, which is but one kind of Fruit, yet are there several sorts of them, that delight in some places, and will not thrive in another, which made the Kentishmen so addict themselves to the Planting of the Pippin and Coddling; because no other Apple would prosper so well in that County, whence they are called Kentish-pippin and Codlin; when in some other places neither of those Fruits will prosper without Art, but are destroyed by that pernicious disease the Canker.  
The Red-streak also is observed to prosper better and yield a better juice in some places than in others, although but in the next Parish, so Summer-pears will thrive where the Winter will not.  
Therefore consider what Species of Fruits are most natural to the Country or place where you intent to raise your Trees, which may be known partly by the growth and well bearing of Trees in the Neighbourhood, or by experimenting variety of sorts in your own Ground, then propagate and Plant those that grow, prosper, and bear best.  

Plant not Standards too near your Houses or Walls.  §. 22. When you Plant an Orchard, or any Ranges of Trees near your House or Walls, Plant them at such a distance from your Houses or Walls, as that when they are grown up to any considerable magnitudes, they may not over-hang your Wall-trees, or hinder the Sun too much from coming to them, whereby your Fruit is much better in everp respect.   

CHAP. VIII. The time most proper for Transplanting of Fruit-Trees.  
§. 1. STone-fruit will be first ready to remove; 
Time for removing  for after two years' growth in the Seedplot or Nursery after they are Inoculated or Grafted, you may well remove them, be they for Wall or Dwarves, which you ought to do in October or November, early removing being advantageous for all Fruit-trees, both for the security of their growing and their well-growing. The best time to transplant into Orchards is from the end of September to the end of November, though you may do it until the end of February, but that's not so good by far, for the sooner after Michaelmas the better; if the leaves are not all fallen when you remove the Trees, pick them off.  
You may begin sooner to Plant well-grown Trees, than those that are very young, and in a very thriving condition, especially young Appletrees, and Peaches, whose Stocks were raised of the Stone or Kernel, which will be in a growing posture until extreme weather put them to a stand; therefore for such stay until about the middle of November.  
Young Trees having been taken up about November, and the end of the Roots cut off, like unto a Hind or Goat's foot on the under-side, and laid in the Earth till March to be Planted, being then taken forth again, it hath appeared that they have put out many Fibrous Roots at the ends of those big Roots cut off, which had they done in the place they were to grow in the next Summer, this would have been a good preparation against Spring; and it's always seen that Trees set in February, or March make generally a much less growth the next year, than those that were set before winter. If a dry Summer happen to succeed, it often kills some of the late-set Trees, and puts such a Sap to others that they recover not of many years.  
In sharp Frosts, or in Snows, though you could dig, it's not good to remove Trees.  
§. 2. If your Trees for Standards at setting are not very weak bodied, 
How to Prune and order Trees at removal.  Prune them up, leaving three or four of the principal Branches on the top, that grow outward, which should be lopped off almost a years growth but if they be weak (lest the Winds should injure them by tossing them) you may top them lower, doing it at a Bud or small Twigg, and in big Trees cut the top almost all off; and whensoever you transplant young Trees cut off the end of all big Roots on the under-side, like unto a Hinds Foot, and they'll put forth new Roots the better.  

Bigness of Trees to be removed.  §. 3. At three years' end after Grafting in the Nursery, Trees may be fit to be removed into an Orchard, especially if you Blow (or which is safer, dig) the Orchard-Land, and set Beans or other Kitchin-Garden stuff in it for some years; but if it be such a piece of Land that you Graze, than you must be sure their heads are grown out of the reach of Cattle before you set them there, and you must Fence them one of the ways mentioned hereafter.  

How to remove a large Tree.  §. 4. It's the best way to remove Trees very young, as at three years' growth, if they may be secured from danger, which in Orchards or Fields where Cattle have liberty to feed, they cannot well be with ordinary Fencing, unless they be of five or six years' growth after Grafting. He that hath a Nursery of his own, and removes them into places, so near that he can well do it, let him the very same or the next day after they are taken up, set them in the place appointed for them, and not cut off too much of the Roots, but the greatest part of the Top; and he may do well to Plant strong and well grown Trees especially, in his Fields, and out-grounds; for the charge of Fencing will be much eased, and being carefully set, they may prosper as well or better than small ones, especially in uncultivated or stiff Land by nature, where young Trees cannot so well put forth Roots; and the following way is better to have old Trees grows and prosper well than is commonly practised, viz.  
If you chance to have any Trees betwixt Ten and Thirty years old that you have a mind to remove, you must about November, the year before you Transplant them, dig a Trench as narrow as you please, but so deep as to meet with most of the spreading Roots at such a distance round about the body of the Tree as you would cut the Roots off at when you remove it, (about half a yard distant from the body may do well, if they be not very large Trees, but if you have not far to carry them, longer) as you make the Trench cut the Roots you meet with clear off, and smooth without splitting them, or bruising the Bark; fill up the Trench again, and by October next after, when you take up the Tree to set it elsewhere, you will find those great Roots will have put forth many fibrous Roots, and made preparation for more, with fresh and tender Roots, upon removal will enable the Tree to draw more nourishment than otherwise it would, and consequently to prosper better in its new mansion.  
§. 5. Many of those Trees removed very timely, as in the end of September, or in October, may shrink and seem to whither much, yet they will recover and come to their former plumpness.   

CHAP. IX. Of the manner of removing and setting Trees.  

Coasting Trees.  §. 1. IN removing any big Tree, men generally observe to Coast them, that is, to place the same side of the Tree to the Southeast, etc. as grew formerly that way where it stood before; to which end before you remove it, you had best make some mark in the Bark of the Tree which way it stood, this you may observe in strait Trees, but it's more material if your Trees lean one way more than another, to set the leaning side towards the South-west, from whence the strongest Winds blow; but notwithstanding this observation, you need not mind it in small Trees, or such that have grown in close-Nurseries; they not being capable of any considerable alteration from any Aspect of the Heavens.  
In case a Tree before removal hath the benefit of the East, or West Sun, more than of the South, then Plant that Tree that before had that advantage, on the like again in its new place, which although it vary from the directions aforesaid, yet not from the reason of it.  

How to take up Trees to be Transplanted.  §. 2. Be careful in taking up the Plants; dig round about them, and take off the Mould from their Roots; if it be a small Plant, it may be drawn up easily, the Mould being taken away, if it be great, and the Roots spread much, than they may be cut about half a yard from the body of the Plant, and the greater it is, the further off cut the Roots, and so draw it up; but keep the Spade from coming too near the Tree, by surrounding the Tree at a good distance, and endeavour to raise as much Earth as you can with the Tree, but if it be to carry far, shake it off; then pick off all the Leaves, if they be not fallen off, because the Sun and Air by their means extract the Sap out of the Branches.  
Pear-trees have ordinarily more brittle Roots than Appletrees, and the Roots of Appletrees, or Stocks, raised of the Kernels of good Fruit, are more brittle than those raised of Crab or wilding Kernels; therefore take more care and pains in opening Ground deeper and wider, when you take up the more tender and brittle Rooted Plants, and pull not over hard, lest you leave most of the Roots behind.  

Young Trees best to set.  §. 3. Young Trees of three or four years old at most when removed, do not only grow surer, but make a larger growth at first Planting, than greater and elder Trees can do, and are therefore best to transplant.  
§. 4. If your Trees have lain some time out of the Ground, or been carried in the Wind or Frosts, that their Roots seem to be dry, set them over night in Water, immerging only the Roots, and it will very much revive them; or when you Plant them, after you have added an indifferent quantity of Earth, cast in a Pail or more of Water as the largeness of the Foss or hole requires, which not only quickens the Roots, but makes the Earth adhere thereunto, which otherwise would lie light and hollow about them. The Air does much incommode the Root of any Plant whatever, and so does Frost.  
§. 5. One may Carry young Trees many Miles to be transplanted; 
How to order Trees for Carrying.  being carefully taken up, lay the Roots all one way, the smallest and tenderest in the middle of the Bundle, and bind them close from the Roots to their tops with a soft band, and then stuff the Roots round about with Straw, Hay, Moss and the like; afterwards bind the bundle all over from the Roots to the very top with Hay, or Straw-bands, or something else, to preserve them from bruising, and wrap something abouts the Roots, a piece of an old ackcloth, or any thing that will preserve the Roots from the Wind, Sun, and from bruising: And in Winter you may carry young Trees thus many Hundred Miles.  
§. 6. See Chap. 8. Sect, 2.  

Set upon every Removal in a better Soil.  §. 7. It must always be observed that upon every removal of Fruit-trees, to Plant or set them again into as good or better Soil as that out of which they were taken.  
But if that cannot be, then Plant, and set them for so far as the Roots may extend in three or four years' growth in as good or better Mould than that out of which they were removed, by laying good Soils under, upon, and about the Roots at the setting; for after they have taken Root two or three years, they will then grow in ordinary Soils; the great danger is at first Planting, which is the reason Trees prosper abundantly better taken out of course and barren Nurseries, than out of those whose Soils are very rich, either by nature, or improvement: therefore be sure to lay as good or better Soil upon, under, and about the Roots when they are set again, if you expect your Trees prosper.  

Set not Trees deep but shallow.  §. 8. Take heed of setting the Roots of your Plants too deep below the good Soil, for if set shallow they prosper far better, than such as are set deep; because in the top of the Earth is the best Mould, so made by the Sun's influence thereon, and every shower of Rain reaches, and refreshes, and feeds the Roots: for all may easily observe Trees thrive best where the Roots run near the Surface, and not at all where Planted deep; because by deep Planting they thrust down their Roots below the good Soil into that which is barren and unfruitful; which causes your Trees to be injured by Canker, Moss, and to be bad bearers, and ill thrivers.  
§ 9 Cut away many of the Branches of all large Trees you set, 
Prune the Branches and Roots at removal.  because every removal is a check to nature, and their growth, and the Roots being cut, yield for some years but a faint nutriment, scarce sufficient to preserve life, much less to make a large growth: But Plants of a lesser size need not have their Branches cut, unless they cross one another, grow too nigh together, or run up too high without spreading, but cut off the ends of all the Roots; because if cut, many small Fibras or strings shoot out of the cut place, which draw nourishment for the Plant, which without cutting would not.  
See before Sect. the second, in Chap. 8.  
§. 10. Make a hole about one yard square and two Foot deep; but if your Soil be wet, or binding Gravel, or such like, 
How to set Trees.  very bad in the bottom, go not so deep, it will be better to set them shallow, and raise the Earth about them; And if not manured Land you set them in, have in readiness some very fine rich Mould, or shovelings of a Yard where Cattle are frequently lodged or fed, or well tempered Street-dirt, or the Mould of rotten Vegetables, or the Sediments of Currents that settle in the bottoms of Pools, or Ditches, that have lain long on heaps, till the same are become mellow and dry; especially if some Lime be at casting out mixed therewith, or rotten Neats-dung, which you may mix with the Earth that came forth of the hole; and so order it, that it may be as good or better than that out of which the Trees came; Fill the hole full half way up with this, and tread it down in such form (having respect to the Roots of the Tree that is to be set in it) that the Roots may rest close upon it, then cut off the ends of all the Roots like unto a Deers foot on the underside, they'll put forth new Roots the better, (if the Tree have one long downright Root (called the Tap, or Heart-root) cut it almost half off) than clay your Tree in, and fill up the hole with the Mould, by casting in the smallest and best next to the Roots, and be careful that all the small Mould run between all the Roots; to that end, stir and shake the Plant, that there may not be any hollow place where the Mould sals not, and with your hand, draw up the uppermost Roots, and part them that they may spread in the Mould every way; Fill up the hole with the Mould, and use all diligence to Place the Roots of your Tree in the same posture they were in before you removed it. If the Tree be young, and the Roots slender, this can be performed no way but by throwing in a little Soil at a time, and then raising up with your hands such Roots as are pressed down by it below their proper situation, spreading them on the Soil you have cast in, and then throwing in more, and ordering the Roots as before, so continuing to do till you have filled up the hole.  
Old Trees with sturdy Roots require not so much curiosity, but be sure that the Mould lie close under, betwixt, and among the Roots.  
If the Soil be light, press it down gently with your foot; then cover them half a yard about with Straw, Weeds, Litter, Fern, or the like, which will keep the Roots warm all Winter, and moist and cool in the following Summer; but if your Ground be not very rich, cover the top about the Tree with Dung.  
Note that Dung is not good to lay next the Roots of your Trees, unless it be converted to Mold by its long lying and rottenness, but Dung is better, being mixed with the Earth laid next the Roots of Trees than alone.  
§. 11. Forget not to water all Trees you Plant, either very early or late.  

To Stake Trees.  §. 12. Standard-trees Planted in an open place should for a year or two be staked, if they be large Trees in danger to be shaken by the Winds; for a Tree at first setting should not be shaken, but after two or three years Rooting, shaking is good: If they stand in a sad Earth, not Ploughed or digged, knock down a strait Stake close to every Tree, and tie the Plant fast to it with a Hay-band or other soft Band, and be careful to prevent galling or fretting by interposing and wrapping the Hay-band once or twice about the Tree before you tie it to the Stake; set the Stake leaning towards the Coasts you expect the greatest Winds, and let not your Stakes continue above a year and half.  

Watering Trees.  §. 13. Trees being Planted, it's very good to keep yearly the Ground Digged or Ploughed about them for the first seven years, which will conduce much to their growth, and preserve them from Moss, and other diseases.  
If you are enforced to remove a Tree in Summer, take the Earth you digged out of the Foss or hole you intent to Plant your Tree in, and mix and temper it well with an equal quantity of Cowdung, and as much water as will make it into a Liquid pap; fill the hole almost with this, and let the Root of the Tree gently sink into it; cover it over with the Mould, and lay some Fern or Litter over all, and once a Month water it, and it will grow well.  

To help Trees on barren Soil.  §. 14. If your Land be not rich on which your Trees grow, it's exceeding good in October, November, or December to lay on the top of the Earth about them, Lees of Wine, the washing of strong-bear Barrels, Blood of Cattle, dead Dogs, or any Carrion, Swines-dung mixed with Earth, once in three or four years, but have a care that you lay not too much, and too often about them, also Soap-suds, when cold, and Soap-ashes are also good. And if your Trees be grown out of the reach of Cattle, you may suffer them to lie amongst them in the Winter from Michaelmas till May-day.  

About bad bearing Trees.  §. 15. Trees of good bearing kinds will usually bear after they are four or five years old, until extreme old age, unless they grow on barren Soil, or sometimes they'll not bear whilst they grow very strong, lustily and vigorously, and have too great a supply of Sap; but after some years they'll then bear well, if they were Grafted of good bearing kinds; but in case Trees are Wall-trees and shoot excessively, and bear not, then abate their overful and rank fertile nourishment, by putting in Sand, or any thing that is barren instead of the fat Soil, and cut off one or two of the biggest Roots from the body, that so it may have less nourishment, and that left will turn to Fruits; and bend downwards also the Branches, and fasten them to the Wall with their tops as low as may be, which restrains and obstructs the excessive rising of Sap, which rising moderately turns to Fruits. But if Trees are naturally bad bearers, there is no other remedy, but Grafting them again with Grafts taken from some good bearing kinds, which are known by yearly experience to bear Fruits well and abundantly.  

To Graft old Trees.  §. 16. When Fruit-trees are grown to extreme old Age, and therefore bear little, cut off their heads or big Boughs, not strait over, but aslope, that Rain and moisture may not rest on the top to Rot it. These will put forth many young Shoots next Summer, which may be Grafted the Spring after with good bearing kinds; and these old Bodies having young heads which draw up Sap vigorously, will bear store of Fruits many years after; or you may cut off their heads even and smooth, and put two Grafts in the Cleft, and two in the Rind, and they will soon cover their heads, if you keep well tempered Clay continually on and about their heads. See Chap. 2. Sect. 10.  

To know the kinds of your Trees.  §. 17. When you Plant Fruit-trees in your Garden, or Walls, or in Orchards, draw the Platform of them in paper, and so set down the name of every Tree according to the place it stands in, which will be both satisfactory and useful at any season of the year, readily to know what kind of Fruit every Tree beareth.   

CHAP. X. Of Planting Wall-fruit.  
AS for the Soil, distance, and Stocks for Wall-Trees you are before instructed; It remains only to say something that before has not been touched on concerning them.  

Setting Wall-trees.  §. 1. Make a Trench by the Wall-side you are to set them up to, about two Foot broad, and as deep, and in every place where a Tree is to be set, about a yard square, mingle good old rotten Neats-dung with the Earth, and fill it up near as high as you intent the Borders to be, and when you have filled it up about half full, tread it down; but if you design no Borders, make then only a hole about a yard square; but if your Soil be wet, or binding Gravel, or such like, very bad in the bottom, go not so deep, it will be better to set them shallow, and raise the Earth about them. Try by setting the Tree in the hole which side will stand best to the Wall, and then cut off such Branches as grow directly toward, and fromward the Wall, leaving only the side-Branches to be nailed unto it; then clap your Tree in, placing it as far from the Wall as the top will allow, that must be spread upon it, that the Roots may have the more liberty to spread towards the Wall, fill up the hole with the Mould, and observe the Directions given at Chap. 9 Sect. 10. and 11. about setting Trees in all other things.  

Summer pruning of Wall-trees.  §. 2. Every year it will be necessary to Prune and nail them to the Wall, twice or thrice according as they grow more or less; First in Summer about the end of June or middle of July. Cut off such as grow directly outward close to the body; if you cut a part of any Branch off, do it at a Bud, that the Cut may be covered with a fresh Sprig; some must be Cut off, and others spread to the Wall; Cut off those that will not spread to the Wall, and pluck not off the Leaves of the others.  
Cutting off the small Branches in Summer, is some check to the Sap, and hinders its excessive rising at that time, which else would spend itself in large and superfluous Branches, and so rob the fruit.  
Lay none a cross or under one another, but let them spread as the fingers of your hand when expanded.  

The Winter Pruning.  §. 3. The Winter Pruning may be done as soon as the Leaves and Fruit are fallen, or any time before February, except Nectarin's and Peaches, which are apt to die if Pruned before the Sap rise; the best time to Prune them is after they Flower.  
The Winter Pruning is chief for the well ordering of the Branches, that could not be well placed in Summer time, and for the Cutting off great Branches when need is. Preserve Branches as low, and as near the Ground as may be, and cause them to bend and grow strait along the sides of the Wall both ways, and suffer not the biggest Branches to rise strait upward, but nail them downwards, to furnish the bottom of the Wall. Be sure to take off those that grow the straightest out, and will not be bowed close to the Wall. And Observe to bend down the strongest Shoots (that would grow upwards) towards the sides, otherwise they will be apt to run strait upward and not cover the space you design for them, and by their Luxurious growth will extremely rob the side-Branches of their nourishment; there will Branches enough spring out fresh to run upwards out of them, when they are so bowed.  
Those that suffer all the young and large Shoots, to grow as much as they will all Summer, without Cutting, and then in Winter Cut all or most of them quite off from the Trees, and preserve only the old stumps, or biggest Branches of the Tree, do commit a great error; because thereby in the middle part of the Tree, and near the Root, few or no young Branches will be seen, whereas they should preserve all the young Branches to spread up against the Wall until it be full of small Boughs, and then some young Shoots every year may be Cut off.  
Shreads of Woollen Cloth are the best things to nail them up with; some use gentle Leather, or the Cuttings of any old Hat, any of these may serve the turn.  

To renew Old Trees  §. 4. When your Wall-Trees are grown old and full of big Wood, you may in three or four years' time renew them, by Cutting out some of the biggest Stems or Boughs yearly, cutting each Branch off at some small twig (if it may be) that either it, or a fresh Branch may grow over the cut place, which must be kept covered with Clay, and so go on yearly till all the big Wood is cut out. Or if you dislike the kind of Fruit, you may Inoculate or Graft the Boughs with a better sort of Fruit, but not all in one year, but some in one year, and some in another.  
By either of these ways you may renew a decaying Tree, and keep your Wall almost still furnished, with less trouble and charge, or loss of Time, than by taking up the old one, and Planting a young one in its stead.  

Setting Fruit proper for each Wall.  §. 5. In furnishing your Walls with Fruit-Trees, Observe always to Plant Peaches and Nectarines up to the Wall that is most Southward; the East-Wall is to be allotted to Apricocks, early Cherries, and the choicest Plums; the West may be set with Pears, Cherries, and Plums. Some of the coursest Pears and Plums, you may set to the North-Wall, both to cover the Wall handsomely, and many years they will bear as well on it, as on Standards; especially if your Wall stand not directly North, but so as to have some considerable benefit of the Sun, Nut-Trees likewise are proper for this Wall, and will prosper well up to it.  
If your conveniencies will allow it, and you are to build a new Wall, it is much better to have your Garden Walls not stand directly towards the four points, than otherwise, and then the worst Wall will be much better, and the best good enough for your purpose.  
As thus, the East-Wall to incline to the South; the South-Wall to the West, the West-Wall to the North; the North to the East; or contrary, but not so well: In the first way the two first Walls will be extraordinary good, and the two later good enough for Ordinary Fruit.  

How to build a new Wall for Fruit-trees.  §. 6. In building a new Wall it would be very advantageous to make it with half-Rounds, each semicricle being eight yards round in the inside, and about six yards in the face, or diameter, each taking two Trees; and betwixt every halfround let there be two Foot breadth of plain and direct Walling, where you may place a Flowerpot on a Pillar two Foot high, or Plant a Vine to run up it, which every Summer, you may let spread itself a little into the half-Rounds on each side it.  
One in a cold Country having his Garden-Walls thus made, had his Trees bear Fruit plentifully in such years as his Neighbours generally fail.  
In some places Walls are thus made for raising Melons under, by a pattern and directions from Italy.  
Grapes ripen delicately on every side the Cluster that grow in a halfround. By means of these Rounds, every Wall will one time of the day or other, have a share of the Sun, and the best Walls (by reason of such a Reflection, and Collection of the Sunbeams as will be in every Round) will be exceeding hot, and the Trees be more secure from Winds.  
A Pale is as good for this purpose, and in respect of Ripening Fruit better than any thing else; it can be raised up too, if the Pale be made of sawed Board's, nine or ten Foot high, and exactly joined, that no wind may come through; next to this in goodness is a Brickwall, and then a Stone-Wall; and the worst of all that which is made of Timber and Mortar; but in this every one cannot be his own chooser, but must comply with what the Country he lives in will permit him to do for his best Convenience.  

Baring the Roots of Wall-trees.  §. 7. Sometime in the Winter after two or three years' growth, if the Soil the Roots are to spread into be not rich enough, open the Ground at the outside of the holes you made at setting, as near round about as the Wall will permit; if you find no Roots bare, let it lie open a Month, and then fill it up with the Earth that came forth well mixed with such a Manure as suits with it.   

CHAP. XI. Of Trees of low Stature and Growth, commonly called Dwarf-Trees.  
§. 1. DWarf-Trees have been of late more than ordinarily valued and coveted; because they are of great advantage for Table-Fruit (whether Pears, Apples, Plums, or Cherries) and being but of low Statute may be conveniently Planted for Walks, and in the border of Garden-Walks, without prejudicing any thing else about them, and their Fruit will be as well secured, and commodious for gathering as the Wall-fruit.  

Stocks for Dwarf Pear-trees.  §. 2. Plants for this purpose must be provided, and prepared somewhat differently from those for Orchards, or Fields.  
The Quince-tree is generally used, and best for Stocks for Pears both for Dwarves and Wall, as well because it may possibly somewhat meliorate the Pear as (and that chief) because it groweth not to that bigness as on a Pear-stock it would be apt to do.  

Stocks for Dwarf Appletrees.  §. 3. For Dwarf Appletrees the best Stocks are such as are raised of the Cuttings of other Appletrees that will grow by Cuttings, as of the Gennet-Moil, Kentish-Codling and others.  
That these are more proper for Dwarf-trees than Crabstocks appears. 

1. Because the Fruit will be rather bettered and not tainted with any asperity or Roughness, as possibly it might be, if Crabstocks were made use of; and one chief design in these Trees is to have choice and delicious Fruit for eating.  
2. Appletrees that are raised on such Stocks will not grow so big as those on Crabstocks, but are with ease and certainty kept Dwarves. Mr. Rea judging the Paradise-Apple of somewhat slow growth in bringing forward a Cyens, advises to Graff a Paradise on a Crabstock, and the Fruit you would have, on that Paradise, that the Crab might yield plenty of Juice or Sap to the Paradise, and the Paradise retard the growth of the Apple Planted on it, so as to keep it a Dwarf; but besides loss of time the success of this is doubted, because the Crab will put forth strong Roots, and yield plenty of nourishment; for why Appletrees raised of Cuttings grow not to be very large Trees, is their putting forth such small Roots, by which means the Tree hath Sap conveyed to it accordingly.  
3. By using these Cuttings for Stocks you shall get at least four years' time, reckoning from Sowing the Crab-Kernel, and the setting the Stem or Cutting be duly considered, as by setting the Stem in the place you intent the Dwarf-Tree shall grow, and setting it in good Earth, for then after one years' growth, you may Graft it, and you will easily discern the advantage in point of time.    
If it be said Crab-stocks ready grown may be made use of instead of Cuttings, There's readily answered, they must grow two, if not three years after they are set before they are fit to Graft, and in respect of their large growth will not be fit for Dwarves.  
Some Nursery-men have made advantage to themselves by this speedy way of raising Trees by Cuttings, but to the disadvantage of them they put them off to, for Planting in Orchards; because they are never like to make large or long-lasting-Trees.  
§. 4. The way then to provide Stocks for Apple-dwarves is thus;  

How to provide Stocks for Apple-dwarves.  In October from such Trees whose Cuttings will grow, take such Stems, or Branches that grow straightest, and which (in the place where they shall be Grafted) are an Inch or more thick, if they be near two Inches so much the better; Cut them off if you can, a hands breadth below such Knots or Burrs as are on them (for at those Burrs they principally put forth their Roots) and cut off the top that they be not above a yard long, (if you cannot get them so long) of Quinces, you must be content with shorter, if they be two foot it may do reasonable well; Cut off also all the side-Branches close to the body, except one small Twig near to the top, for the Sap to vent itself at; set these presently in Beds as your Seed-plants were, or rather if your Garden be laid out, (that you can know the places they shall stand in) set them there.  
You need not fear setting these as deep as the length will bear, so that there be of them about a Foot above Ground, because they will shoot out Roots all along, almost to the top of the Ground, and so spread their Roots in the good Soil, and by setting them something deep, they are in less danger of Dying, and this prevents the trouble of covering the Ground about them with Fern or Straw; and by this means likewise they will stand the firmer in the lose Garden-land for Grafting at a years end, and better support a spreading top afterwards.  

Stocks by Circumposition.  §. 5. But because its hard to meet with great plenty of such Branches, thus to be cut and set for Stocks, that have Burrs or knots on them; Planters have therefore found out a way (which is called Circumposition) to bring these knots or Burrs upon Branches, that had them not before, and to mend and improve those that before had them, and the way of it is as followeth.  
About the beginning of February next before you design to cut these Stems, directly above the place you intent to cut them off at, for above a Foot in length, fasten about them some Earth in an Old Hat, or Boot, or Bag made of some strong Cloth: and in that Earth they will have put forth Roots against the Octob. following, when you are to cut them off to set them.  
Or (which is a quicker and readier way) you may dawb some wet Earth or Clay about the place, and wrap a Hay-band about it, putting some moist Earth likewise betwixt the rounds of the Band, and then running it about again over the spaces betwixt those first rounds of the Hay-band, and making fast the ends of it.  
If the Stem have no Burr, before you go either of these ways to work, then take off here and there a little slice of Bark, about an Inch long round about it, near the middle of the place to be covered, as hath been directed.  
Some direct that before this application of the Earth, about an Inch breadth of the Bark be taken off round about the part of the Branch, that is to be surrounded with the Earth, that Roots may shoot out in greater quantity, by coming out in the upper skirts of that Circle, as well as in the lower; but this is but a Crotchet, and grounded (as my Lord Bacon and others have observed) upon the opinion of descension of the Sap; whereas indeed there is no such thing; for the whole mass of Sap is always ascending, but in lesser quantity in the Winter; because the Tree is then only to be nourished, and kept alive, to which end a small supply is sufficient, and yet necessary; and in greater plenty in the Summer to furnish the Tree with Leaves, Fruit, and new yearly growth; and the true reason why Leaves and Fruit fall off towards Winter, is not because the Sap returns downward from them, but because the Sap ascends not so vigorously at Winter as in the Summer, by reason of the coldness of the Season, and the Sun's small stay on our Horizon, and because they have arrived to their full ripeness, and the Trees fail by degrees to convey up so much Sap as it did in the Summer to them, to produce fresh ones; and therefore consequently that's an idle mistake too, to think that the Sap or Juice in the Winter, is laid up in the Roots, as a Repository, as appears plainly, inasmuch as they are ever found dryer in the Winter than in the Summer, so that upon the whole, this taking the Bark off round the Branch is good for nothing, but to endanger it by intercepting the Juice or Sap, which rises in greatest quantity betwixt the Bark and the Wood; but if as before was hinted, you take some little slices of the Bark off round the Branch, here and there, leaving the Bark entire in some places, this may by checking the Sap, cause it the more abundantly pass and be converted into Roots.  
But to proceed to the business in hand, you have seen the way of preparing Cuttings by Circumposition; and though some will pretend to raise Trees of any kind by the use of it, yet it's certain it avails not, but only in such as by a peculiar property are apt to put forth Roots, being cut off and set into the Ground, and those generally known and made use of this way, are the Kentish Coddling, the Gennet-Moil, some sorts of sweet Apples, and Bitter-sweets, the Quince-tree, the Mulberry-tree, Goodsberry-trees, Curran-trees, and the Paradise Appletree, which last is much commended by Mr. Rea, for to raise Stcocks for Dwarf Appletrees.  

To raise Stocks by cutting down an old Tree.  §. 6. Another way to raise Stocks for Dwarf-trees is, to cut down some one Tree of little worth, of such a kind as you want Stocks of, about a Foot or more from the ground: This will make some kind of Trees very apt to cast forth very good Suckers from the old Roots; such as are of two years' growth may be transplanted; and the stump above ground, will also put forth abundance of young Shoots: after these young Shoots have grown out of the Stump one year, cast Mold or Earth about them a good height, so that you cover not the Tops of any of them, where let them grow two years more, and they will be well rooted, then cut them off from the old Stock (which after that may yield fresh ones again) and set the Shoots you take off as before hath been directed about Cuttings.  
These will be about three years longer before they be ready to Graft than Cuttings, but will be very good young fresh Stocks, and is a good way to raise Stocks of the Quince-tree for Pears, because Quince-trees generally grow so crooked and irregular, that its difficult to procure any considerable quantity of them by Cuttings.  
If they shoot up tall after they are moulded, you had best top them at a convenient height; it will make them grow the more in bigness and so be sooner fit to Graft. But if you have a desire to have any of the same kind as the old Tree was, you need not top them.  
And by this means if you want Quince-trees, coddlings, etc. you may be furnished with plenty, that will make better and handsomer Trees than if you raise them by Cuttings.  

Stocks for Dwarf Pear-trees.  §. 7. You may raise Stocks for Dwarf Pear-trees from Suckers of Old Pear-trees (if you cannot conveniently get enough of the Quince-tree) for many Pear-trees cast them naturally, which being preserved from Cattle, may be taken up and set in Beds of Earth as you did the Seedlings.  
If your Pear-trees yield not Suckers of themselves, you need only cut off the top of some old ill Pear-tree (and Graff it with a better Fruit if you please) and the Roots will cast forth Suckers plentifully, and you may help them by making a small Ditch or Gutter so as to bear some of the Roots about two yards distant from the Tree, or pair off the Grass (if any grow about the Tree) that they may have the more liberty to spring up.  
Or in this case you may bare the Roots, and then give a Cut cross some Roots almost to the Heart, and from the cross Cut cleave the Root, raising up the lose part, and put in a little Stone to keep it open; cover it three Inches over with Mold; let this be done if you can, where you find a Bud or Eye on the Root for the Sucker to Shoot out at, and either inoculate the young Shoot in the place where it stands, or remove it to some other place after a years growth, and when you do, cut off with it about a Foot of the old Root; and by this means you may have Suckers from some other Trees, that do not naturally yield them.  

Stock for Dwarf-Cherry and Plum-trees.  §. 8. To have Stocks for Dwarf Cherries, and Plums, or for such Trees for a Wall, the speediest way, and such as will succeed for that purpose, is by Suckers of the common red Cherry, and any ordinary, or rather white Plum-tree, both which cast up Suckers plentifully.  
If the Suckers grow in a place secure from harm, you may inoculate, or Graft them before removal, under their mother Plant, and let them grow there one year after: and thereby you'll gain a years time and more; and choose such Suckers as grow at greatest distance from the old Tree.  

How to order the heads of Dwarf-trees.  §. 9 In Grafting or inoculating Stocks for Dwarf-trees, observe to do it as low as you well can, with two Cyens placed on each Stock, and those longer than in Grafting for large Standards that they may spread from the Ground.  
And after they are grown two or three years in the places they are to stand in, to make them spread, and to keep the Boughs outward, you may tie an old Hoop of a Barrel, or some such thing in the midst of the Branches, to bear them a good distance one from another; but if one Branch be much stronger, or more inclined to grow upright than the rest, than you may drive a Stake into the Ground, and tie the sturdy one down to it.  
If you Cut the Bark crosswise in several places on the inside of the Branches, when they are placed as you would have them, it will be a means to make them more willing to continue in that order of their own accord, after some years' growth: If any one Branch shoot out much further than the other, cut off its top to keep it even with the rest, and yearly cut much off, especially new Shoots, that grow directly upwards, after they are grown to that height you design them to be of, 
Trees raised of Cuttings.  which may be about a yard and an half.  
§. 10. Having directed how to raise Kentish-Codlings, Gennet-Moils, Quinces, or any that grow of Cuttings for Stocks; there needs no other Rules for raising Trees, or Hedges of the same kind of Fruit, only you need not cut them so short as you do for Stocks.  
coddlings Grafted on Crab-stocks, and set in a Garden or elsewhere will, increase their growth; because Crab-stocks have great Roots, and will yield them more plenty of nourishment than Roots of their own putting forth, when they are raised only of Cuttings. Others Graft Gennet-Moils on Crab-stocks, and they thrive well, and bear a larger and (some think) a better Fruit than those Trees of that kind raised by Cuttings: some have Grafted several of them in rough and Woody Grounds, which have grown with very strong Shoots, and covered the Stocks very soon.   

CHAP. XII. How to Plant in the Fields, with the various advantages thereof.  
§. 1. MUltitudes of Fruit-trees may be Planted abroad in the Fields and Hedges of enclosed Grounds, whereof very great profit may be made without any considerable damage either to Corn, Hay, or Pasture, and its best in this way to Plant the courser, harder, and long-keeping kinds of Fruits, which will not be meanly serviceable to a Family by using them either for Baking or Cider. These Trees being about seven Foot high before they begin to spread, will be out of the reach of Cattle, and not troublesome to Workmen about Hay and Corn in Summertime, if Planted twenty or thirty Yards distant one from another, and in Ranks throughout the Field, that the Blow may continue a strait Furrow all along from one end to the other, whereby Corn will grow near the Roots of such Trees almost as good as any where in the Field, and Grass as much or more under Trees as where none are, though not altogether so sweet, by reason of the droppings, yet the multitude of Fruit abundantly compensates the damage almost Tenfold.  
Many Countries in England have experienced the benefit of Planting in the Fields, where it hath been of long and general usage, and in many other Country's Gentlemen have begun already to imitate them, which should much encourage others to follow; for the more there are that Plant, the less particular persons will lose by Thiefs, and where Fruit is in great pleanty, it is found to be more slighted by Idle people; and besides if a man hath store, he'll not feel the loss of a little, or it may quit his cost, to have one to cast an Eye to them, for a month's time near ripening; and further yet Cyder-Apples, Baking-Pears, and Pears for Perry are so little grateful to the Taste (which Pilferers chief aim at pleasing) that he that tastes them once, shall scarcely find his Teeth water after them a second time. However the benefit of Planting in Fields much outweighs these and all other incoveniences; for by this means you may have a double Crop on your Lands, viz. Grass or Corn, and your Fruit, and the Land rather benesitted (as the matter may be ordered) than damaged; One of these Trees also bears as much Fruit as three of the best in a thick-planted Orchard, the benefit whereof for Sale or use in a Family for Baking, or Liquors, or other uses, is known to be so very considerable, that it's needless to say more of it.  

Encouragements to Plant Pear-trees in Fields.  §. 2. Because the Planting Pear-trees abroad in Fields is of less reputation generally than the Planting other Fruit-trees, to take off the aspersion, consider the following suggestions.  

First some Pears do not make so contemptible a Liquor as Perry is commonly reckoned, but very strong, and kept two or three years, drinks to admiration, so that several good Palates that have drank of it, have not been able to distinguish it well from Liquors of more esteem.  
Secondly, Their Fruit is not eatable and so in less danger of Thiefs in your out-grounds than Apples are.  
Thirdly, They will grow on barren Land where Apples will not prosper so well.  
Fourthly, They are Trees of long continuance, and often grow to that bigness, and bear so plentifully, that one single Tree will bear Fruit enough to make a Hogshead of Perry, sometimes two, or three in one year, which would save the expense of much Malt, though the Liquor were but mean.   
There are several ways of Planting in the Fields, all which are here set down, that every man may use that which suits best with his conveniency and good liking.  
§. 3. If your Land be in tillage, you may set Fruit-trees at thirty Yards distance from one another, 
How to Plantwhole Fields.  throughout the whole Fields, in strait and direct Rows, after the manner of an Orchard, and you may go on with your Ploughing with the loss only of about a yard, or four Foot Square of Land about every Tree for twenty years at least, and when they are grown so big, that you think your Corn receives hurt by the shade or droppings of the Trees, if you can turn it to pasture, the Trees will improve most kind of Land, by keeping it warm in the Spring, they will make the Grass come and grow more early, and by Shades in the Summer preserve it from burning; but the Trees being set at such a distance, the Land may continue for any purpose for ever, if you dress or Prune these Trees higher up than any other, that no Boughs may hang in the reach of Cattle, and for convenience of going about them with your Team to any work, and thereby the Air and Rain will have free access to the Grass, or Grain near about them, and the Fruit will be safer from common Pilferers. These need no other fencing than Thorns bound about them, and a Stake driven in the midst to keep them from shaking; because you may receive the prosit of the Stubble or Fallow without suffering any large Cattle to come into the Ground, that will browse upon them.  
§. 4. Another way of Planting Fruit-trees in Fields is by setting Walks of them, 
How to Plant Walks of Fruit-trees in Fields.  running through the midst, or along the sides of your Pasture-grounds, where you have a mind to have Walks for ornament, or shady: for why Walks of Fruit-trees should not be rather Planted than of Elm, Sycamores, Ash-trees, etc. none can pretend a reason, there being some sorts of Fruit-trees that will (and almost any kind may be ordered so as to) grow very handsome in shape, besides the beauty and sweet smell of the Blossoms, and worth of the Fruit.  
To prevent damage by Cattle, if you go this way to work in Field Planting, they must be well grown before you set them, that is, they must be of about six years' growth, and then well fenced, and there are two ways used to save them harmless. 1. One much commended is by Tumping them, 
To set Trees by Tumping.  and it's performed thus, viz. set your Trees in the place designed on the top, or almost on the top of the Ground, no deeper than to make it stand, though all the Roots be not covered, till the Tump or Mound be raised about it; and then take a line about a yard and quarter long, tie the one end of it about the Tree, but so that in going round the Tree with the Line strained, it may slip about the Tree as you go; fasten the other end to an Iron setter or stick with a sharp point, and as you go round the Tree, mark the Ground; Make then a Ditch on the outside of the round Score, and lay the Turf handsomely two or three heights, with the Grass-side outward so as to make the work full half a yard, or two Foot high; then cast the Mould out of the Ditch, observing to throw the best of it next the Roots of the Tree, till you have raised it within as high as the Turf; then prick strong Thorns into the Mould, that they may lie upon the Turf, and point outwards a yard over the Turf; as you place the Thorns, put more Turf or fast heavy Earth out of the Ditch upon the ends of them, treading it down the better to fix them, and lay the Earth shelving down from the Turf towards the Tree, that if Rain fall it may soak towards the Roots; if you have any small Thorns, Briars, Furs, or Gorse, lay it one the top of the work finished, round the Tree and repair all yearly as you see cause, which may be done with small trouble. The following observations will demonstrate the great convenience of setting Fruit-trees this way.  
First if your Land be over moist this Ditch will drain all wet from the Roots of the Tree; but if the Land be Day or such that the Water will stand in, then when you perceive it (which is very rarely) cut some little Notch or Trench to let it out.  
Secondly, This way of setting is commended in dry Land; because the Earth of the Mound will secure the Roots from the heat of the Sun, and every shower of Rain will much refresh it, by soaking towards the Tree.  
Thirdly, You need not bind your Tree to a stake which doth often gall and Hurt the Tree, for so much Earth about it will keep it steady,  
Fourthly, If your Land be stiff, or strong old Land, the Mound made of it will mellow and improve about the Roots, and also by that time the Roots spread as far as the Ditch, it will be filled up with Mould fallen from the Tump, and with sticks, Leaves, etc. which will be rotten, lose, and good for Trees to Root in, and by that time they will need little or no defence, if any at all; A few Thorns tied about the bodies of the Trees, to keep Cattle from rubbing against them will be enough.  
Fifthly, The Chief benefit of setting Trees thus, is, that where the Soil is somewhat too moist or shallow, the Tree being set on the top of the Land, will put forth its Roots plentifully into the Earth cast up, and thence shoot into the upper Turf and best Land that hath been Ploughed and manured before.  
Another way of Fencing is, by erecting at a Foot and a half distance one from another, about every Tree three small Posts, (if they be sawed they need be but three Inches square) or you may use Poles, or strait Boughs, either whole, or if big enough, cloven in two, three or four parts, about five Foot above the Ground in height, being driven into the Ground, nail a cross Bar of Wood from each to other, within a Hand's breadth of the tops of the Posts, to which Bar, nail a Pale or two betwixt each two Posts, stuck into the Ground or nailed to the like Cross Bat within a Foot of the bottom of the Posts; the way of it may be seen now in divers places, and learned in a Minute; though what's said here makes it plain enough.  
This way is more chargeable than Tumping, where Timber is scarce, but much more durable than it, and absolutely necessary where Deer, or Rabbits, or any thing that peels the Bark off, come into the Land Planted.  

Planting near Hedges in the Fields.  §. 5. Another way of Planting in Fields which hath been successfully Practised, is thus; When you scour a Ditch, and cut down or plaish an old Quickset-Hedg, than set a row of Trees within a yard of the Hedge on that side that is not Ditched, and Fence them with halfround Tumps only on the one side, for the Hedge will secure them on the other, and from the cut or plaished Hedge, you will commonly have Thorns and Briars enough for the Mounds, to Fence it as hath been before directed; and at the same time, or in Summer, draw some of the Quickthorns, Hips, or Briars, from the Hedge in o the Fence, about the Tump which will contribute to the strengthening and preserving the dead fence you had made about it before; so that you may be free from trouble about it for ever after.  
There are these advantages in this way of Planting, viz.  

1. The Ditch on the outside the Hedge drains the Ground and makes it healthful and sound.  
2. The Ground near the Hedge is commonly very Rich, as not having been impoverished by Tillage, but improved sometimes by the often scouring of the Ditch, and commonly with the Dung of Cattle, that for shelter, Shade or Fodder repair thither.  
3. It's not the least hindrance to Ploughing or Grass; for the Hedge when it's grown up, usually beareth out as far as the Tree is set in the Field.  
4. And this is much better than Planting in the Hedge Row, as many do; for in a large top it's apt to weaken the Hedge under it, but these being set a little distance from the Hedge, and growing (as they will) with the greatest part of their Heads from it, will not damage it.  
5. The Fruit may be gathered with much more ease, than of those that are Planted in the Hedges.  
6. They will not be choked or hurt by the Hedge when it's grown up, but be good handsome fair Trees.   
You may set these at eight yard's distance, or nearer, being but one single Row, and so if but half a Field (as usually it falls out) have the Ditch on the outside, you may set a considerable number, and find advantage without damage, and with inconsiderable charge, especially if the Ditch stand on the North-side, if you can, therefore choose such Hedges.  
This is not to be practised near Hedges that are full of great Wood, or Trees; but if there be but few Trees, it's but leaving a vacancy near such Trees, and setting your Fruit-trees against such places, where there grow none in the Hedge.  

How to Plant in Hedges is the Fields.  §. 6. Another way of Planting in Fields is this, if you would Plant without any charge of Fencing, you may do it in your Hedges; these Trees must be well grown and strong, that the Hedge choke them not while they are young: and when you plaish or cut down a Quick Hedge, observe no certain distance, but as it happens where you find it most free from Quick, set a Tree and enclose the Body in the Hedge, but bind not the Etherings too close about it, lest they gall and fret it, and as it groweth observe what Thorns annoy it, and cut them off.  

Planting by the Cuttings of Gennet-Moils, etc.  §. 7. If you have a mind to set any Cuttings of coddlings, Gennet-Moils, or other Appletrees that grow of Cuttings, they will prosper very well in, or rather near a Hedge, because generally there the Mould is lose and mellow for them to put forth Roots in, and somewhat enriched by the frequent cleansing of the Ditch; if you Plant them near the Hedge, you must a little Fence them on the one side, as by the third foregoing direction; but the Tumps you raise to set the Thorns in, must not be above a Foot high, for the Cuttings will shoot out their Roots, almost to the top of the Earth about them, and a high Mound falling down by degrees, some of the best Roots may be left bare, or very little Earth upon them.  
The way of preparing Plants for this purpose, is by Circumposition, etc. as is directed in the 11 Chap. of Dwarf-trees.  
Make choice of Cuttings or Stems as big as a Man's wrist (if you can) towards the lower end; before you set them, prune them out of the reach of Cattle, and leave but little top on them when you set them, neither let them be very long; if the tops be out of the reach of the Cattle its enough.  

Planting in Fields by long Crabtree Stocks.  §. 8. There be some that get long Crab-tree-stocks out of Woods, or else dress some up in their Nurseries to grow tall, and set them in their Fields or Hedges, and at three years standing Graft them, which may do well and is better approved of, because there needs no removal after they are Grafted (which is of great advantage as to make both good-bearing and sound Trees) but some inconvenience there is in this way: the long Stocks out of Woods being commonly very old, their Bark thick, their Roots big, they thrive but indifferently; and those raised in Nurseries will seldom be taper grown, or strong enough to bear a large top well, after they are Grafted so high as they ought, being set in Fields: You will also be longer in raising Stocks to that height, and any considerable strength (as is necessary for this purpose) than in raising Trees, if your Stocks be Grafted young in your Nursery, because they thrive more after Grafting than before; and in both Cases if you Graft them high, the Stocks will be continually putting out sprouts of their own kind below the place they are Grafted at, which will require frequent cutting off; if you Graft them not very high you will find it difficult to defend them from the nipping of Cattle, and from the Cyens being broke out of the Stocks by some casualties or other, to which they are more exposed in Fields that lie common to Cattle, than Nurseries that are enclosed.  

Planting in Fields by Gra●ting old Crab-treestocks.  §. 9 The way most used in Planting-Countries is by Grafting such Crabtrees as grow in the Hedges or Grounds, and this is the speediest way to have Fruit; because the big Trees have Bodies already, and in four or five years' time (well ordered) will have good tops to bear; and if you Graft small Stocks in your Ground that have grown of their own accord there, and Fence them, they will speedily bring on Grafts, being so well Rooted.  

The mischief of Grafting the bodies of old Trees.  §. 10. Many cut off the tops of old Crabtrees, or Appletrees, and Graft the body or Trunk, but the Cyens could never cover the Heads of those Stocks, and by that time the top was a little grown up, the body was ready to perish with rottenness. The best way for big Crabtrees (or if you would change the kind of any Fruit-trees) is to Graft them in the Boughs, where they are not bigger than a Man's Arm, making use of none but those that grow handsome at convenient distance one from another, cutting off the others smooth and even, close to the Body of the Tree.  
To do this, that Winter that you cut or plaish a Hedge, order the Workmen to trim up, but not to lop or top the Crabtrees, unless it be the tops of the Boughs two Foot above the place you intent to Graft them at, and then in March following saw off the Heads at proper places and Graft them.  

Of Grafting old Trees in the Cleft.  §. 11. Many are for Grafting these in the Cleft; because they think the Cyen hath best hold, and will not be so subject to be broke off, or out, by the Wind, as those Grafted in the Bark; but many times those in the Cleft are broke out by the Wind, neither can you perceive that the Wood of the Cyens in the Cleft did ever cement with the Wood of the Stock, but only on the outside as the others do: And those in the Cleft are not so apt to grow all of them, nor to make so great a growth as those in the Bark, which with a little wariness may be preserved from danger of the Wind, and full as much care must be had about those Grafted in the Cleft, if you will preserve them all from the same prejudice.  

How to Graft old Trees.  §. 12. You may observe the following difference in Grafting these great Foughs from all the forementioned varieties of Grafting, and look upon it as a thing well worthy to be taken notice of and observed.  
When you have prepared the Cyen as you are directed to do when you Graft in the Bark, apply it to the place you design to put it in, and slit the Bark of the Bough through on both sides the Cyen close to it, beginning at the top of the Bough, and not carrying the slits much above half length of the slope of the Cyens, separate that little portion of the Bark between the two slits, from the Wood with your Instrument, thrusting it a little lower than the slits, to let in the Cyens as far as it is sloped, and then stick the Cyen in, having first taken off from the edges of the Cyen any unevenness (not cutting through the Bark) that all may the better fit together, and you may put in two, three, or four Cyens in every head, having respect to the bigness of it; or you may in the biggest put in two Cyens in the Cleft, and two others in the Bark, doing one of the later on the Westside of it, for then the Wind blowing it towards the Head, is not so apt to break it out, as if it drove it from the head; bind the heads and Clay them as you heard before, and continue to do so yearly till the heads are almost covered.  
At first Claying, stick in Feathers or long Escures, to prevent Birds lighting on the Cyens.  
In July following (whether you Graft these big Stocks in the Cleft or Bark) pick off most of the Leaves of the Cyens, and cut off such sprigs as growing inward will make the head thick, and all straggling out Boughs, that the Wind may not have so much force upon them to break the Branches out of the Stocks.  
Cut off also some of the biggest Shoots the Crabtree puts forth of its own kind; but for the first three years, you must not cut off all, left the Tree not having liberty to vent all the Sap that cometh up, surfeit and die, the small Grafts not being able to receive near so much Sap as the old top did the year before.  
Thus many Countrymen when they take off the head of an old Oak, have sometimes found it die, and therefore in some Countries, they leave one big Bough to grow for one year to draw up the Sap, (as they term it) whereas it is indeed that the Sap may have liberty to vent itself; for Trees that have a thick Bark, as old Oaks have, when all the small Boughs are cut off, are long in putting forth Branches; and difficulty at last put forth so many as will spend the Sap which comes up the Tree, in some proportion to what it did the year before, when the whole top was on, which Sap being chief in the greatest Channel betwixt or near the Bark and outside of the Body of the Tree, and not being vented, is either dried or consumed by the heat of the Sun, or putrifies for want of that continual motion that is in it, when it hath vent, that several Trees die of this Disease; and when Trees die this way the Bark will drop off from the Body of them sooner by some years than otherwise.  
Hence it is that you may kill a Tree, by lopping off the whole top in the Summer time, or so much of it that the remaining Boughs cannot receive all the Sap, but it lieth choked up for want of Issue.  
The second Summer you ought to bind some Hay-ropes, about the lower part of the Cyens; there will be no great need of repeating this the third Summer, but if done, it will the more certainly secure them from breaking by the Wind.  
Thus you may securely and speedily Graft old Trees, that are either bad Bearers, or bear Fruit of bad kinds, and they will in three or four years hear plentifully, if you take care (which you always aught to do upon any Grafting or inoculating) to Graft them with kinds that experience of yourself, or others, can faithfully assure you to be of very good bearing kinds.   

CHAP. XIII. Of propagating and ordering Vines.  

Soil proper for Vines.  §. 1. THe best Ground for them is a rich dry, light, Sandy Land, inclinable to Stony or Gravel, so it bind not; if it incline much to Brambles it's a sign of apt Ground for this Plant; the richness of the Soil is not altogether so requisite as the heat and dryness thereof; a short Vine full of Knots or Joints is most fruitful, and fittest for our Climate. The best Dung to Fatten the Earth they grow in, is Horse or Sheeps-dung; make bare the Roots in the beginning of Winter, and throw in plenty of the same Dung most Winters.  

Kind's of Vines to be propagated in England  § 2. Next be sure to make choice of such Grapes as are most suitable to the English Soil and Climate, which is more subject to nipping Frosts and cold blasts than France etc. and our Northern Country much worse than the Southern for these Fruits (as well as all other) especially, are better or worse, and bear according to the place they grow in, if they have a proper Soil, be well ordered, have much Sun, as upon a South-Wall or upon the East-Wall which is best next, the Fruit will be better and sooner ripe. And I have read that the Vine that yields Grapes in the Canaries, of which the Sack is made, was transplanted from the Rhine in Germany thither, and that it was no other than the Rhenish-Wine Grape, which agreeing and improving in that Climate, affords the most delicate Wine, far different from its parents on the Rhine.  
The small black Grape, by some called the Cluster-Grape, or Currant-Grape, is the first ripe, bears well, the Bunches are small, but the Grapes so thick that you cannot put a pin between them, and is a very pleasant sweet Grape, and as fit for propagation as any. There is another sort so them without Stones.  
The next is the Red and White Muskadine, bearing well, large Bunches, and fair Fruit, and ripens in most years against a South-Wall; but the Red is not so good as the White.  
The Red and White Frontin●ac, is a Fruit, of a very pleasant haut-gust, where it comes to perfect ripeness, which it scarce does, unless in a hot Summer, and it be Planted against a good South-Wall.  
The Black or Red Orleans is a very good Grape, and ripens very well with us.  
The great Blue-Grape, is very good Fruit, and ripens well with us.  
The Canada, or Parsley-Grape, so called from the Country whence it came, and from the form of its Leaf, being divided and Jagged like a Parsley Leaf, it's ripe somewhat late, but a good Fruit.  
The Raisin-Grape is a large and long Grape, but ripens not well in this Climate.  
The Burlet, is a very large Grape, but seldom ripening here.  
Grape de Arbois, is a very good Grape.  
The Bursarobe is an excellent large sweet White Crape, and in some years ripens well, as also will the Muscat.  

The way of propagating Vines by Layers.  §. 3. The best way of propagating Vines, is in November, to Lay a Branch of that years growth into the Earth, under the old Tree, without cutting it off; lay as many Joints, or Buds in the Earth as you can, leaving but one or two out; for it puts forth its Roots chief at the Joints; at a years end, or in the February come twelvemonth cut it off from the old one, and Plant it where you design it should grow; lay it in the Earth in the same posture it lay in before, and also lay some of the Buds of the new Wood that grow out since it was first laid down; that it may gain the more Roots, leaving out of the Ground again not above one or two Buds.  

Propagating Vines by Suckers and Cuttings.  You may chance to have Suckers of an old Vine which will be sure to grow. Or you may take Cuttings of Vine-Branches of that years growth, and cut the bottom in shape of a Deer's foot on the under side, and set them in good warm lose Land, and many will grow; if it be in the place you intent they shall always stand in, next year lay down a part of that which hath grown out, to Root also, or else upon removal lay in the new growth all but a Bud or two, with that part which is already Rooted; if it have made but small growth the first year, lay part of the second years growth in the Ground; it will more advantage them by helping them to good Roots, than the loss of a year or two's growth in the top will amount to.  
§. 4. If you have an old Vine that beareth not well, 
To help an old Vine.  lay down in February or March some of the strongest Branches of the foregoing year, (that grow low) in the Mould under the old Tree, without cutting them off, leaving out of the Ground a Bud or two to grow, and your Wall will quickly be furnished with new and Fresh Branches; so that by degrees you may cut off many of the old Branches of the Vine; for though one Vine may cover abundance of Walling, yet three or four Roots in that compass will strengthen it the more to bear.  

Of Pruning Vines.  §. 5. As Vines stand in more need of Pruning than other Fruit-trees, so great care is to be taken in the performing of it; when you have set your Vine as you have been before directed, so that not above two Buds of it remain above Ground, you are to nail up such Branches as grow forth up to the Wall, till it have overspread as much Wall as you design for it, suffering not above two Branches to grow from the Ground, and snipping yearly the tops of the Branches a considerable length, as far as they are weak and tender, and also all small poor ones, close to the body, unless the well-liking Branches be but few, and then you may leave the lowest Bud of some of them, to grow forth next year, and this you are to do yearly towards February, or the beginning of January.  
When your Vine comes to bear, you are to use your Knife about it three times in the year.  
First at farthest in February, and the beginning thereof you are to prune off part of the foregoing years Shoots where they are too thick, close to the old Wood As it enriches your Vine to keep it thin of Branches, so you must take care it be well stored with Buds against the Spring following, for it bears Grapes only on the new Shoots of every year; and in cutting off these Branches, you must take care your Wall continue furnished with such Branches as may be spread upon the Wall regularly and decently, not thick in one place and thin in another, nor crossing out another. On every Sprig you cut off in this Pruning, where you would have Fruit the succeeding year, leave two or three Buds, for out of those Buds, especially the second or third, proceeds the Clusters; also cut off the Branch aslope on one side or under, that the Rain rest not on the Pith of the remaining part.  
Secondly, The next time to take off superfluties from your Vine is about Midsummer, when the Grapes are knit; clip off then the end of the Branches that have Grapes on them, a little above the Grapes, that they may have the more nourishment and keep them nailed to the Wall, as also barren Branches where the Wall needs them.  
Thirdly, The last time of cutting is in August, for then, because Leaves and Branches may be so thick, as to keep the Heat of the Sun from the Grapes, which is necessary to ripen them, you may pluck off some of the Leaves, and cut off some of the Branches to open way for the Sun to come to them.  
There's on thing to be observed in Pruning these, peculiar to it, that whereas others are cut at a Bud, the Branches of these must be cut off near the midst betwixt two Buds, and that not later in the year than the beginning of February, 
Note. that December and Jannary, are the best times for tee Winter Pruning of Vines.  for afterwards the Sap or Juice will run out, and the Vine will be much weakened by bleeding. You will by that time also see what the Frost of the Winter foregoing hath killed, which must be taken all away.  
If Frosts come before any Grapes are ripe, defend them in the night time by Tilts or Mats.  
§. 6. It's not worth your labour to Plant Vines by Espaliers, 
Vineyards prosper not in England.  or in a Vineyard in England; because of the early nipping Frosts which our Climate is very subject to, which is the reason ti's seldom used, and the usage of people in such cases affords no weak Argument that it's of no advantage; And Grapes seldom or never ripen well in this Isle, without great help of Art and industry, to which purpose take these directions.  
First, To Plant such as ripen soon in the year, that they may have as much of the Summer heat at ripening time as may be.  
Secondly, Let the Wall you Plant them against, be a full South, or but a little inclining to the East; or if you have a half round, or corner in a Wall, or the back of a Brick Chimney, or a Kiln-wall, or Barnwall posited as aforesaid, make use of such places for them.  
Vines will prosper and bear well against a high Wall, yet that is not altogether so necessary but that low Walls may serve turn, and the higher may be reserved for such Fruit-trees as will not do well without them. That of a Terrace Walk may do well for Vines, and the Gravel Walk under the Wall mightily increase the heat about them.  
If you Plant any Trees against your dwellinghouse Wall, there may be some narrow places between two windows, or the like, where other Fruit-trees have not room to spread: a Vine may grow up there, and above those narrow places enlarge itself where ever it meets with room.  
You may also Plant a Vine betwixt every Fruit-tree that groweth against your hottest Walls, and let it spread a little in the Summer time into the Fruit-trees on either side, especially if the Fruit of such Trees use to be early ripe, or that they bear little Fruit, or have not been so long set as to have covered the Wall. And though such Vines cannot extend themselves to that bigness, as those Planted where they have more room; yet by this means you will make advantage of such portions of your Wall, as otherwise you could have but little benefit from.  
Some Vines Shoot forth exceeding large Branches yearly, but bear little; in such cases bore the Roots, and cut off a Master Root, or two from the Tree, then lay some Sand, Ashes; or any hot barren Soil to the Roots, and it will abate the redundancy of Sap, and conduce to bearing Fruits.  
§. 7. Do not pull or cut off your Vineleaves in August, or September, with design of giving access to the Sun's heat, thereby to acclerate the maturity of the Fruit, as many frequently use to do, and as is before directed in Sect. 5. for on my own experience, such depriving the Grape of its Leafed shelter from the cool Air, or morning Frosts, hath always proved pernicious and destructtive to the Grape; and I have often observed the best Grapes and earliest ripe, to be under the shadow and Protection of some Leaf.   

CHAP. XIV. Of Figs, their kinds, and propagation.  
FIgs are a Fruit that agree with English Palates and Soils much alike, 
Figs.  there being few that affect them. Among the several sorts of them, there are two of chiefest note among us. The great blue Fig, as large as a Katherine-Pear, and which is most common, and bear their Fruit to perfect ripeness, if set against a South-Wall, and spread thereon with Nails and Leathers, and Planted on warm Land.  
And there is the Dwarf blew Fig, that's sooner ripe and better tasted than the former, but the Tree and Fruit is lesser.  
Figtrees ought to be Planted in a very warm place, against a Wall defended from the North and North-East Wind: every old Tree will yield plenty of Suckers fit to raise new ones from beginning of October, until Candlemas; or they may beraised by Layers; as Vines. Prune them no more than extreme necessity requires.   

CHAP. XV. Of Walnuts, their kinds and propagation.  

Kind's of Walnuts.  §. 1. THere are several sorts of Walnuts, some being larger, others thinner shield than the common, but differ so little one from another that Men have not much minded giving them Names; the largest sort is usually called the French Walnut; the best are those of a tender thin shell, of a full Kernel, and of a middle size.  

For what Walnut Trees are good.  §. 2. Walnuts are much Planted of late, and are very proper for Walks in Grounds, and a good Fence to shelter Buildings and Orchards; the Fruit is useful, and profitable if you can spare any to sell, or for Oil for Painters, if the Markets should be glutted with them, and the Timber so excellent for Tables, Chairs, Stools, and the Stocking of Guns, etc. that it goes off well, and takes a good price.  

Way of raising Walnuts.  §. 3. They are raised by Nuts gathered from the same Trees: if you can, let them have their Green Husks on them, for the bitterness thereof will defend the Kernels from being eaten by Worms before they spring up; but you must chief respect their full ripeness, at which time they are apt to shed their Husks; you may either set them as they come immediately from the Tree, or keep them in the Sand till March.  
Set them in rich, dry, warm Land, little more than an Inch deep, and when you transplant them, set them as speedily as you can after taking up, and cut off little of the Roots, but by no means the Sap or heart-Root (as in other Trees) and top them not at all, if you can help it; but if the Tree be so tall, crooked, or dead at the top before removal, than you must put a Peg, or some soft Wax into the Pith-Pole, or cover the Cut with Clay, that wet may not get in, and make it die downward, because these Trees have a large Pith; when you do cut off the top, do it if you can, at a side-Branch or Sprig, and that will spread under the Clay and cover the tops again; you may cut off many side-Branches when you transplant them.  
No Cattle will browse or peel them by reason of their bitterness, so that a Fence that will preserve them from Cattles rubbing it sufficient.  

Soil proper for Walnuts.  §. 4. They will grow in lose Gravelly, Stoney, or almost Rockey Land, and best where they are first set without being removed, to which end you may in such a Hillock as is spoken of in Field-Planting (but not so broad nor so high) set three or four Nuts, or more, and about two years after they are grown up, pluck up gently all but one of them, that is likely to make the best Tree.   

CHAP. XVI. Of Chestnuts.  
THe best Chestnuts among us are those that come from beyond Sea, but of those that grow with us, some are larger than others, without any difference worth observation.  
Chestnut-trees grow to b● very large, and bear good Fruit on a h●t dry Land; they are excellent for a defence ●rom Winds, and better than Walnut-trees, but of much flower growth; It's not good ●o top them as some do when they transplat them.  
They are raised by setting N●ts an Inch and half deep, that come fr●m beyond Sea, at the end of the year; or ●rom good Nuts well ripended in England, ●hich you may set with the Husks on wher● they are fallen, or rather kept in Sand till the great Frosts are over: these Tr●●s grow best likewise without being ever ●●moved, some say that they will grow well being Grafted upon Oaks, Beeech, or Walnut-trees.  
The Horse-Chesnut growth of Layers, and makes delicate Trees for Avenues.   

CHAP. XVII. Of Filbeards.  
THere are two sorts of Filbeards, distinguished by the colour of the skin of their Kernels, the one being Red, and the other White: There is another sort, called the Filbeard of Constantinople; the Leaves and Fruit of which, are bigger than either of the former: And there is besides these an excellent large plump Nut, that hath a very good Kernel, the best of which have a very thin shell.  
Filbeards and Hazle-Nuts worthy to be Planted in Orchards or Gardens, are raised from Nuts set in the Earth or Suckers from the Roots an old Tree, or may be Grafted on the common Hazle-Nut-Tree.   

CHAP XVIII. Of Quinces their kinds and propagation.  
THere is not a more delicate Fruit for the Kitchen and Conservatory than the Quince, whereof there are some sorts, though not many, somewhat different from each other.  
The Portugal Apple Quince, is of best esteem, it's a large yellow Fruit, tender, pleasant, and soon boiled.  
The Portugal Pear Quince is much like the former, except in its form.  
The Barbary Quince is good, but small.  
The Lion's Quince is a large yellow, and the Brunswick Quince a large white, both good Fruit, but inferior to the two First.  
The English Quince is the most Stony, and a harsh Fruit, and covered with a Down or Cotton.  
The way of raising Quince-trees is by Suckers, Cuttings, as you are taught in the Eleventh Chap. aforegoing; and it's only to be added that if you have a part of a Tree that growth so low, that you can bring it to the Ground, either by Plaishing or otherwise, you may do it in the beginning of Winter, and cover it all with Earth but the ends of the Branches, and let it continue so one year, and then uncover it, and every Twig will have put forth Roots in the Earth, which being cut off, and transplanted will make you a Tree.  
And this is the way of propagating Fruit-trees by Layers: 
How to propagate by Layers.  And you may here take notice, that all such Trees that may be propagated by Cuttings, as Currans, Quince, Goosberries, Raspherries, Barberries, Figs, Vines, Mulberries, etc. may be raised likewise by Layers, and this way takes more sure than by Cuttings. Trees generally have large Pith that will grow by Cuttings and Layers.  
Quince-trees delight, and bear best in a fat, moist, rich Land, where some Sink, or Gutter that carries away the soak or Wash of a Dunghill or House, is a place usually chosen for them, and is such as they like very well in.  
Some will Graft or Inoculate Quince-stocks, with Grafts or Buds from Quince-trees of good bearing kinds, which will cause them to bear more early.   

CHAP. XIX. Of Mulberries.  
MUlberries are distinguished by their Colours, for there are Black, Red, and White.  
The Black Mulberry-tree never fails of Fruit after it's grown up, but the White seldom bears well.  
They are raised by Suckers, Layers, or Cuttings from the Branches or sides of the Tree.  
These following Trees and Shrubs are very apt to grow of Cuttings or Slips, as coddlings, Gennetings, Brets, Gennet-Moils, Quinces, Goosberries, Currants, Figs, Vines, Tamarisk, Honeysuckles, and Roses in some Grounds. By Laying, almost any sort of Trees or Shrubs will grow, if a little Incision be made, as the beformentioned and Mulberries, Cornelions, Lime-trees, Gelder-Roses, Roses of all sorts. The Season for setting of Cuttings of Trees to grow, is from the full of the Leaf until Candlemas. The Season to increase Trees by Laying, is from Michaelmas to the beginning of March, and sometimes in the Spring or Summer.   

CAAP. XX. Of Medlars, and Service-trees.  
THere are three or four sorts of Medlars, the biggest sort, called the great Dutch Medlar without any Thorns upon the Branches, is the best, and a good bearer; the common hath Thorns upon the Branches; and there is another sort without any Stones in the Fruit.  
There are two sorts of Services, one larger than the other, that groweth wild in the Woods, but neither the sorts of these, nor of Medlars, are distinguished by names, and the Fruit of both is not eatable till they are rotten.  
Medlars are raised by Grafting on the Pear-tree, Crabtree, White-thorn, or Service-tree, the last is the best, and the White-Thorn by much the worst.  
You may get Plants of services out of the Woods, where they grow wild, from which you may raise Service-Trees, or Stocks for Medlars; or if you can get none such, Graft the service on the Wickey-Berry Tree, or the White-Thorn.   

CHAP. XXI. Of Goosberries, Currants, Raspherries, and Barberries.  
§. 1. GOosberries so called from the use that hath a long time been made of them, 
Goosberries.  in the Kitchen when Green Geese are in season.  
There are some varieties of Goosberries, the best sorts are the Amber, and great Hedgehog Goosberry, which is prickly, but the other smooth, both of a bright Yellow colour, and the great White Holland, or Dutch Goosberry, which is large, transparent, and a great bearer. The great Yellow Dutch Goosberry, differeth from the last only in colour. The great early Red Goosberry is a fine, sharp, pleasant Fruit, and first ripe; there are likewise some that are Blue, differing little from the former, but late ripe, and the Great Green Goosberry late ripe, but good; and there are several small Goosberries not worth Planting or taking notice of.  
§. 2. Currans or Corinth's, 
Currans.  taking their name from Corinthia where first had. The great White Dutch Curran, and the great Red Dutch Curran, are the fairest, largest and best, and the great Yellow Dutch Curran differs only in Colour, all others are to be ejected out of your Gardens; the English and Black Currans not being worth Planting in comparison with the White and Red Dutch Currans. The great Dark-red Dutch Curran is largest, and hath a sweet relish, and since it became a Native of our Soil, is much improved, where Planted in rich moist Grounds.  
§. 3. Of Barberries there is the ordinary, 
Barberries.  or common sort, and Barberries without Stones, and the great Barberry, which is a sort bearing bigger Fruit than either of the other.  
Of Raspberries there are three sorts; 
Raspberries.  The Common Wild; The large Red Garden Rasberry, a pleasant Fruit, and yields a delicate juice, And the White Rasberry little inferior to the Red.  
Goosberries, Currants, Raspberries, and Barberries are best raised by Suckers, of which you may have plenty about the Roots of old Trees. And Goosberries, and Currans may be propagated by Layers, or by Branches, or Shoots cut off and set; they are to be set four or five Foot distant from each other upon Borders, or Beds of rich moist Land: The season for Planting them is from Michaelmas to Candlemas.  
Currans and Raspberries will prosper and like very well in shady places, and the colder the Soil, the better will Raspberries bear and thrive.  
Raspberries usually bear the same year they are set, if drought, or too late Planting hinder not; and that which bears this year, dies after bearing, and what Springs new this year bears the next; Cut no more of them than what will make them a little handsome, and in the Winter cut or break out all the dead Stalks from amongst the living Raspberries.  
When Currans, Goosberries, and Barberries have grown some years, suffer not too many Suckers to grow about them, nor cut the tops to a round close Bush, as many Gardiner's do, whereby they grow so thick that they neither bear, nor ripen their Fruit so well as if the grew taller and thinner.  
All the said Fruits (viz. Goosberries, Currants Barberries and Raspberries) like well in shades, though the Fruits are not of so delicate a taste, as those that grow in the Sun: You ought to keep the Ground about them free from Weeds, and other Vegetables, and to Dig, and well Manure it each two years at Michaelmas, and yearly with a pair of Shears about fourteen days before Midsummer dub the tops of Currans and Goosberries and they'll bear better; do the like at Michaelmas.   

CHAP. XXII. Of the kinds of Peaches, and Nectarins.  
§. 1. THe Stones of Peaches produce Trees that will bear Peaches, sometimes better than the Peaches out of which the Stones were taken, although those Peaches grew upon a Tree that was Inoculated on a Plum-stock: And therefore some Gardiner's by setting many Stones of the Newington-peach, have found some amongst the Trees come up from them, to bear a Fruit rather improved than worse, and by giving it a new name, and Inoculating from it, have made good gain of it; but this is not a practice for every private person; because Peach-trees so raised, will be much longer before they bear Fruit, than those which are Inoculated; and because he must run the hazard of filling great part of his Wall with these Peach-trees thus raised from Stones, and not one, it may be, in an hundred prove any thing extraordinary, and the rest of no use, unless for Stocks; after he hath waited several years to see what Fruit they will bear.  
§. 2. Of Peaches the first and soon ripe is the White Nutmeg, next that is the Red Nutmeg, next to that is the Troy, which is ripe almost as soon, and a better Fruit; next ripe are.  
The 

Isabel  
Savoy  
Early Newigton  
Bordeaux  
Old Newington  
Violet Muscat  
Persian  
Modenae  
Morello  
Rumbullian  
Scarlet  
Bellice  
Royal  
Ricket  
Bloody Mounsieur, one of the latest, and Red within and without, and an excellent Fruit.   Peach.  
These are accounted excellent kinds of Peaches, and there are many other good sorts besides these, and so there are of Apples, Pears, etc. more than are mentioned in this Book, or is necessary to trouble the Reader with; some choice Fruit of every kind being here nominated, for every one to please his fancy with, or store himself with them or others, as he approves them, or hath convenience so to do.  
The best Nectarines are. 
Nectarins'.   
The 

Red Roman  
Murry  
Tawny  
Paper White   Nectarins.  
There are others though worse sorts as,  
The 

Yellow  
Painted  
Russet  
Red   Nectarines.  
The Algiers Nectarine is commended by some; because it parts easily from the Stone.   

CHAP. XXIII. Of the kinds of Apricoks, and Strawberries.  
APricok, so called from Apricus, delighting in the Sun, is a kind of Plum, but far exceeding others in every respect.  
The Algiers Apricock is early ripe, and in June, it's a small round and Yellow Fruit.  
The Masculine Apricock is a better and earlier Fruit than the former, but not so good a bearer.  
The Turkey Apricock is much commended, so is the Orange; the white Apricock is accounted better than the Common.  
They are to be propagated only by Inoculating upon the White Pear-plum Stock, or White Wheat Plum-stock, or some Plum-stock which is Sappy, of large growth, free, and bears large Leaves, Shoots and Branches.  
Strawberries will grow under the shades of more lofty Trees. 
Strawberries.   
The common English Strawberry is much improved by being transplanted from the Woods and Hedges into the Garden.  
The White Strawberry is more delicate than the former.  
The Long Red Strawberry is not altogether so good as the former.  
The Polonian, or Great Strawberry is the largest of all Strawberries and very pleasant.  
The Green or Rasberry Strawberry is the sweetest of all Strawberries and latest ripe.  
The New England or American Strawberry is the earliest ripe of any English Fruit, being often ripe at Midmay, and continues bearing till Midsummer. They are the farest (except the Polonian,) and of the best Scarlet dye of any Fruit that grows, and very pleasant and cool to the Taste. They are propagated by setting of the young Roots (chief in the Spring and Fall) which increase from the Strings that run from Elder-Plants, and the Strings must be very often cut, and they Weeded.   

CHAP. XXIV. Of the kinds of Plums.  
IN Berries the white is commonly more delicate and sweet in Taste than the coloured, as is seen in white Grapes, white Rasps, white Strawberries, Currants, etc. but in Fruits the white is commonly the meanest, as in Plums the white Harvest Plum is a base Plum, the Mussel, Damazeen, and other black Plums are of the best, etc.  
There is great variety of Plums, and they appropriated to several uses, they continue longer on the Trees than Cherries, and are a more pleasing, but not a more wholesome Fruit.  
Plums to be preferred before others are as follow, The Red and Blue Primordian, as being first ripe, though not so good Fruit as several of the following.  
The 

Morocco  
Myrobalan  
Violet  
Apricock, a delicate Plum, and parts clean from the Stone.  
Barbary  
Black Damascene  
Green Damascene  
Prunella  
Queen-Mother, one of the best Plums.  
King's  
Matchless  
Black Pear Plum  
Peascod  
Catalonia  
Bonum Magnumque, a fair yellowish green Plum.  
Black Date  
Cheston  
Marbled  
Imperial, one of the largest of Plums.  
Nutmeg  
Turkey  
Prince, last ripe.   Plum.  
These Plums you may set to a Wall, though most of them will bear well being Dwarves, or Standards, if you have not wall enough.  
The white Pear Plum, Prune, Damsons, and Verdock, are good preserving Plums.  
The 

Muscle, one of the best Plums  
Wheat.  
Lammas   Plum.  
And Bullice, and Damsons, and several course Plums are raised by Suckers, without Grafting or Inoculating, and may be set in Orchards, Hedges, or any common places.  
The driest Plums which part clean from the Stone and are of a black or inclinable to a Black or Red colour, are accounted best.  
Plums are best propagated by Grafting.   

CHAP. XXV. Of the kinds of Cherries.  
THe May Cherry is first ripe, and should have a good Wall to expedite its ripening; for though they are but ordinary Fruit, yet their earliness makes them a rarity: next ripe are.  
The 

Duke  
Archduke  
Flanders  
Red-heart  
Lukeward, one of the best of Cherries.  
Cluster Cherry, bearing three, four or five usually on a Stalk.  
Bleeding-heart  
Spanish Black  
Naples  
Carnation, a delicate Fruit for the Table or conservatory.   Cherry.  
The 

Amber, the Grater.  
Purple, one of the best and latest Cherries and a good bearer.   Cherry.  
The great bearing Cherry of Milan, and Morella, are Blackish when ripe, and Blood Red within, excellent to make Cherry Wine, affording a strong and Vinous Liquor.  
These viz. the Cherry of Milan; Morella, Cherry, and Prince Royal Cherry are good to preserve.  
If you have not room upon your Walls, these will bear well in any warm place, Planted as Standards.  
Those that you find put forth small Twigs, and have a small, dark, Green Leaf, are easiliest kept for Dwarf-trees.   

CHAP. XXVI. Of Pears and their kinds.  
PEars are of very many kinds, in so much that some have affirmed that there are no less than four or five hundred several kinds; but however, certain it is there are so many, that to trouble the Reader with their names would be very needless, therefore some of the Choicest for all uses will be most proper for the storing your Plantation, especially if you respect profit more than curiosity, which is the main design of this little Tract.  
Pears are much improved, as is most Fruit by being Planted against Walls. In France they are accounted among their best Fruit, and the best kinds well merit it.  
The Summer and Winter-Bon-Cristien growing pendent are fit for a Wall, than to be Planted of Standards; the Winter will keep till May, and is a very choice Pear.  
The Bury de-Roy, is esteemed for the Table the best of all Summer Pears, it's a fair Brown Pear, excellent in its season, melting in the Mouth, thence called the Butter-pear, and bears well against a Wall; the Green Bury-pear, is more Green, and larger than the former.  
The 

Violet  
Dove  
Grean Musk  
Amadot  
Rousellet  
Messier Jaen  
Great Sovereign  
Blood  
Windsor  
Green-field  
Dionier.  
Great Burgamot  
Virgalous  
Roshea one of the best of Pears.  
Red Katherine   Pear.  
The Double Flowered Pear keeps till May, not fit to eat till March, these do well Planted against a Wall: If you have not Wall room enough, such as grow with small Twigs, or almost any Grafted on Quince-stocks, may be kept Dwarves. The Winter and Summer Burgamots may also make Dwarves.  
Meet Pears for Standard-Trees in Common Orchards, are such as follow, both for Summer and Winter-fruit.  
The 

Hill  
Primating  
White Geneting  
Red Geneting  
Green Chissel  
Pearl  
Sovereign  
Orange  
Red Katherine is the best of Katherine's.  
Anthony  
Sugar  
Lions a rare Winter Pear for the Table.  
Pimp  
Berry  
Poppering  
Dedman's  
Scarlet  
Prick  
Royal  
Nonsuch  
Kings  
Ladies Buttock  
Muscat  
Oak  
Virgin  
Lion's  
Ice   Pear.  
The 

Gascoign Burgamot  
Winter Poppering  
Little Dogobert  
Great Kairville  
Long Burgamot   Pear.  
With divers others, each Country affording variety.  
The Slipper, and the Lewis Pear by some called the Maiden-heart, is the best off all Pears to dry, and a good bearer.  
In Fields you may set Baking Pears, and Perry-Pears for Baking.  
The 

Norwich  
Quince  
Bishops  
Arundel  
Bell  
Painted   Pear.  
The great Black Pear of Worcester, or Perkinsons Warden, is to be preferred before all other Pears for Baking; the Pears usually weigh twenty ounces, sometimes more, and it bears very well against a Wall. Also Wardens of several sorts are good for Baking.  
Pears for Perry are the Red, and White-horse Pear; and there are also divers other wild or Choak-pears, whereof the Red coloured yield the strongest Liquors. The Bosberry, and the Bareland Pears are by much the best for Perry, yet taken notice off, the Tree that bears the Bosberry-Pear will grow to that Bigness, that it will bear Fruit to make one, two, or three Hogsheads of Perry in one year: their might be much said of its excellency when it's two or three years old. The Tree will prosper on almost any course Land.  
The Turgovian-pear, mentioned by the ingenious Mr. Evelin, in his Pomona, is said to yield the most superlative Perry the World produces, and it were wished the same was more generally propagated.  
Pear-trees require not generally a very rich Ground, but will prosper best on Stony, and light Land.   

CHAP. XXVII. Of Apples and their kinds.  
§. 1. APples are seldom Planted against a Wall: therefore it's best to furnish yourself with the choicest of these following for Table Fruit, by making them Dwarves in the Garden, or larger Trees in a secure Orchard, being very tempting Fruit, and some of them early ripe.  
The Jeniting is early ripe, and a Fruit off a pleasant taste.  
The Margaret or Magdalen is the best and most early, commonly ripe about Saint Margaret's day in June; it's a fair Beautiful Fruit, of a pleasant taste and scent, and not equalled at that time for the Table, and Kitchin.  
King Apple, though not a Common, yet esteemed an excellent Fruit, and preferred to the Jeneting.  
The Aromatic or Golden Russeting Apple hath a Gold coloured Coat under a Russet hair, with some Warts on it, it's Flesh of a Yellow colour, and form of a flattish Round not ripe till after Michaelmas, lives over the Winter, and the most pleasant tasted Apple that grows, having a delicate Aromatic haut-gust, and melting in the Mouth.  
The Flax Apple a good early Apple.  
The Spice Apple in some places much valued.  
The Summer Queening mixed with others, a good Cider Apple, being of itself sweet.  
The Go-no-further, or Catshead-Apple a large Fruit with Red sides.  
The Golden Pippin is smaller than the Orange Apple, but like it in colour, taste, and long keeping, and the Trees are great bearers.  
Bontradue, or good Housewife is the largest of Apples, a great bearer, and good for the Kitchen, and makes good Summer Cider.  
The Giant Apple is a large Fruit and well tasted, the best of any Summer Apple for Kitchen uses.  
The Pome-Water is an indifferent good lasting Fruit.  
The Summer Pearmain is known to be an excellent Fruit, but not so good as the Winter Pearmain.  
Kirton Pippin or Holland Pippin is one of the best sorts of Table-Fruits from Michaelmas to Alhallontide, and yields very good Cider.  
The Orange Apple is of the colour and form of an Orange, hath a fine rough Gold coloured coat, resembling the Golden Pippin, only fairer, is of a very pleasant taste, and will keep long.  
Summer Bellabon is a fair Apple, the Tree a good bearer and the Fruit very good, but will not keep any long time.  
Russet Pearmain a very pleasant Fruit, continuing long on the Tree, and participates both of the Russet and Pearmain in colour and taste.  
The Paradise Apple is a curious Fruit produced by Grafting a Pearmain on a Quince-stock.  
The Famagusta is one of the best early Apples.  
§. 2. There are also some Apples of great esteem in their respective Countries, as,  
The Darling Apple is much valued in Cheshire.  
The Stocking Apple in Herefordshire, though not known by that name in many places.  
The Golden Renating in Hartfordshire, a very pleasant and fair Fruit, and it something resembles the Pearmain, the Trees great bearers, but subject to Canker, the Apple keeps well.  
The Angles Bitten in Worcestershire, a delicate tasted Apple.  
Kirton Pippin in some parts of Northamtonshire.  
The Harvey Apple in Cambridgshire, a choice Fruit, but the Trees no good bearers.  
The Devonshire Quarrington is a very fine early Apple.  
The Bitter-scale in Devonshire much esteemed, yielding excellent Cider without the mixture, or assistance of any other.  
The Underleaf in Herefordshire, an Apple of a Rhenishwine Flavour, and may be accounted one of the best Cider Apples.  
Deans Apple is well esteemed of in Devonshire, on the same account that the Bitter-scale is; and so is the Pleasantine Apple.  
§. 3. The subsequent Apples are good Winter Fruit, and such as may be Planted in Orchards. And observe that long lasting and fair Apples, will not only adorn your Table, but yield most profit, either for the family or sale, for one Bushel of good Apples after Christmas may be sold for three times more, than the same Fruit would have taken at Michaelmas; and your long keeping Fruit is of good use and profit until new come, as well for the Table, and Kitchen, as Cider.  

The Winter Pearmain.  There are three sorts of Pearmains, and the larger sort is more pulpy than the smaller, and keeps not so well, they are all of them excellent Fruit, but the Winter is best.  
The Winter Queening is a very good Table Fruit, and so is the Quince-Apple.  
The Nonsuch Apple is a long lasting Fruit and good at the Table.  
The Pealing is a long keeping Fruit, makes good Cider, and the Trees are great bearers.  
The Leather-coat a good Winter Fruit, and long liver, so is the Golden Doucet.  
The Pome Roy hath a good taste, a pulpy substance, and not yielding much juice, yet that which is, is very good.  
The Lording is a fair, green, and sharp Apple, a constant bearer, being a hardy Fruit, and for the Kitchen only, and hath little Core.  
The July-flower is of a pleasant taste, and long lasting, a thick rind, and hard Core, well stripped, good for Cider, making an excellent mixture.  
Pear Apple is a curious pleasant Apple, of a rough coat, but the Tree no great bearer.  
Greening is a good Apple, of a Green colour, and keeps to a second year.  
Lones Pearmain is called by several names in several places as the Marygold-Apple, Onyon-Apple, Kate-Apple, John or Joanes-Pearmain; It's a very good long lasting Fruit, fit for the Table, Kitchen, Conservatory, or Cider, having a good juice, bears every other year to admiration, the intervening years but a few, and there is another of them called the Summer marigolds.  
Green Russeting is a tough and hard Fruit, long lasting and of a pleasant taste.  
Red Russeting is of a lesser size, but an excellent Apple and long lasting.  
Pome-water is an indifferent good lasting Fruit.  
Winter Fillet or Violet is an excellent Cider Fruit, yielding a delicate Vinous juice.  
Winter Bellabon is a great bearer and keeps well and is a fair Apple.  
The Oakenpin a long lasting Fruit, yields excellent Liquor, and is of the nature of the Westbury Apple, though not in form.  
The Nonsuch, is a long lasting Fruit, good at the Table, and well marked for Cider, and the Redfennel, and Figg-Apple whose Tree yields no Blossoms as other Appletrees; nor Fruit any Core or Kernel, are also good Winter Fruit.  
There are several other good Apples that will last and keep long as.  
The 

John-Apple or Deuxans  
Westbury.  
Winter-Reed  
Flower of Kent  
Parsly  
Winter-Chesnut  
Maligar   Apple.  
The 

The Short tart  
The Winter-Russeting  
The Pellmell  
The Thrift  
The Winter-Clary   Apple.  
There are many and divers kind of Pippins, all of them very good, yet the Gregory-Pippin propagated much about Manchester in Lancashire, I esteem to be one of the best for profit and service; it's a fair, large, well relished Fruit, hath little Core in it, and keeps and lasts well till the following May; The Trees are quick and large growers, and will prosper well upon courser Land than other Pippins, and the Trees are great bearers and the Fruit good for any Culinary use; And it's an excellent sort to be propagated, on mean Soils and where better Soil, is not to be had and for the Northern parts.  
There also are several sorts of Renating, very choice and good Apples, as the Goldin-Renating, the Lincoln-Renating, etc.  
In Planting Winter Fruit, the best course is to Plant several Trees, of some few of the best kinds, after you have found what sort prosper best in your Soil; for many sorts will be troublesome in gathering, and keeping them severally when you have done. Long lasting, keeping, and fair Fruit, and Apples, will not only adorn your Table, but yield you most profit and service.  
§. 4. For Cider Fruit, the Red-streak, Bromsberry-Crab, Golden-Pippin, Gennet-Moil, Westbury-Apple, 
Cyder-fruit  the White and Red Must-Apples, the John-Apple, Under-Leaf, Winter-Fillet, Elleots, Stocken-Apple, Bitter-Scale, Claret-Wine-Apple, Arrier-Apple, Richards or Grange-Apple, Coling-Apple, Olive-Apple, Fox-Whelp, Pippins and Pearmains mixed, Gilliflower-Apple.  
But above all Cider Fruit, the Red-streak, is most celebrated for its juice of any Apple the English Soil affords; It's one sort of Wildings of Herefordshire, and for the excellent Liquor it yields, is now spread into most parts of England.  
There are several sorts of them, as the Summer, Winter, Yellow, More-Green, and the Red Redstreak, which is the Chief and more Red than the other. The Redstreak should be Planted for Cider rather than any other Fruit, and that for the following Reasons. 

1. Because it yields the best of English Drinks.  
2. Because the Fruit is harsh and unpleasant, and though kept long, tempts not the Palates of Lewd persons.  
3. The Tree thrives in as mean Land as any other Apple whatsoever, being a spontaneous Plant at first.  
4. It's a constant bearer, being a Wilding, enduring (more than the grater part of other Fruit) the severity of sharp Springs often destructive to those that are more tender.  
5. The Tree bears in a few years after Grafting, recompensing betimes the industry and cost of the Planter, the delay whereof in other Fruits, hath been a principal obstacle to the great design of Planting.  
6. The Tree is low and humble and so more of them may be Planted in a like quantity of Ground, than the taller Trees which shade the Ground more.  
7. The lowness of the Tree prevents the sharp Winds in the Spring, and the Fruit of them are not so apt to be blown off in Autumn.  
8. The Fruit exceeds all other Apples in the Kitchen for the time they last.    

Golden Pippin.  But it's observed that the Cider made of the Redstreak is not in all places alike, although it be a curious Liquor, excelling most Cyders in most places, yet in some Lands other Apples may make a better Cider; As the Golden-Pippin being a delicate Apple, yields a juice in many places exceeding the Redstreak: so that if your Land be rich inclining to the Pippin Fruit, the Golden Pippin merits a place in your Plantation, being a very great bearer, and the Fruit one of the best for the Table, as well as the Mill, and makes an admirable and restaurative Cider.  
If the Redstreaks are kept till they are mellow, the Cider at first is very luscious, if Ground early, then is the Cider more racy.  

Boms burry. Crab.  The Bromsbury Crab is reputed next to the Redstreak for good Cider, and although it be little better than the common Crab, yet if kept on heaps till almost Christmas, and then Ground, it yields a brisk, poignant, and very excellent Cider.  

White, and Red Must-Apples.  The White and Red Must-Apples make a Cider very good to be drunk about Christmas, next following the season of making Cider. The Trees are of quick and large Growth, good bearers, and 12 or 14 Bushels or Strikes of them will make a Hogshead of Cider.  

Jennet Moil.  The Gennet-Moil was once accounted the best Cider Fruit, and still many Gentlemen that are Cider Masters prefer it, and preserve it for their own Drinking.  

Winter Queening.  The Winter-Queening is not commonly used for Cider, yet it yields a strong and Vinous Liquor, but so dry a Fruit, that 24 Bushels will go to make one Hogshead. The Fruit must not be Ground till very late in the year.  

Pippins and Pearmains.  Pippins and Pearmains mixed are much used, and Pippins alone make a strong and wholesome Liquor.  

Westbury Apple.  In Hampshire near Peterfield, there is a Fruit known by the name of the Westbury-Apple, so called from the Village where the old Trees stood, that yielded the Grafts to its Neighbours. It's a fair, Green, and dark coloured Fruit, having on the Sunny side of them some Red stripes, the Rind or Peel exceeding rough, the Flesh spongy and not inclining to Rot, although rudely handled; if the Fruit hang long enough on the Trees until they are ripe, which will be with the latest.  
This Fruit is not to be eaten by reason of its tough, rough and austere substance and Taste, until Christmas.  
The may be kept until the Midsummer following, and are to be preferred for any Kitchen uses. The Trees are great bearers, and thrive in any cold and moist Land, and it's probable in barren Land, it being a natural Fruit to this Country, and endures all weathers, and yields an excellent, and plentiful juice. For which property of being hardy, unpallatable whilst on the Trees (a worse Apple than it not being to be found) well bearing, durable, and usefulness, the more ingenious Neighbours have increased them. Of which Fruit hath been made Cider far excelling any Redsstreak that could be there obtained, and it's probable may exceed any other Cyders, so that the Fruit be not Ground until December at soon; For all hard, durable, rough and sharp Fruits make the worst Cider, if Ground from the Trees, or soon after, and the best when they have been kept until time hath throughly digested their juice by lying on heaps and there sweeting.  

John-Apple, Deuxans, or Two-year-old Apple.  The John-Apple, or Two-year-old, so called from its long lasting, continuing near two years, is an Apple not much unlike the Westbury-Apple last mentioned; for it agrees with all Soils, and where the Pippin Fruit are so subject to Canker, that its labour lost to Plant them, there this Deuxans, or John-Apple flourishes even to excess, and its Rind so clean, that no other Tree is to be compared to it. The Tree is more apt to aspire than any other Appletree, its Branches grow very uniform, and therefore may be Planted near one to the other in Rows, but those Rows at a fair distance, whereby beautiful Avenues may be made, yielding Fruit as well as shade. The Trees are great bearers, and hardy against all Winds and Blasts; The Fruit is so hard, sharp, and unpalatable from the Tree, that it's freed from the danger sweeter Fruits are subject to; they hang long on the Trees before they are ripe, and then being laid up until December, or after, and Ground, yield a very delicate Cider, which will soon ferment, therefore must be drawn off the Lee in a few days.  
This being a common, and in some places but a Hedg-Fruit, and yielding but a thin sour juice, being Ground from the Tree, hath been of late slighted, when in truth there is scarce a better Fruit to be Planted, than this John-Apple, or Two-year-old, both for the beauty of the Tree, it's quick growth, it's liking all Grounds, great bearing, enduring all Wethers, long lasting, it's excellency for Kitchen uses, and preference at the Table, when most other Fruits are past.  
Observe that Cider Fruit may be divided into three Classes, First, such as are for making early Cider, or for present Drinking, as the Coddling and Summer Fruits, etc. Secondly, such that are for making the best, rich, oily, spicy, poignant, and high relished Cider, and also long keeping and lasting, such are the Redstreak, Bromsberry Crab, Golden-Pippin, Westbury-Apple, John-Apple, the several sorts of Musts, and Fillets, the eliot and Stoken-Apple, etc. Thirdly, such that are useful Fruit for the Table, yet making a very pleasant and acceptable Cider, and such are the Pippins and Pearmains, Gillyflower, Marigold-Apple, Golden-Renneting, Harvey-Apple, Queening, etc. Generally all hard Apples and Wildings, having a lively, pert, poignant, brisk juice (so that they come not too near the degree of stark Crabs) make excellent Cider; but Cider, made of hard, harsh Fruits, is not so soon ready for drinking, as that of Summer Fruits, and those more pleasant: That made of Table Fruit being earliest ripe, is ready to drink so soon as it is well settled and cleared; but that of hard Apples, not till Summer following, and will continue good for two or three years, or longer, if kept in a cool Cellar, good Vessels, well stopped, and will improve in keeping.  

Of Planting several kinds of Apples,  Some object that since one or two kinds of Fruits may be had very good for Cider, what occasion is there to Plant of so many sorts?  
For Answer; They will find it advantageous to have several sorts of Fruit for Cider, for the following considerations, 

1. One sort of Fruit-trees may and do bear one year when another fails.  
2. Cider made of some kinds will be ready to drink sooner than others, and thereby you may have it successively for your use. The Must-Cyder may be clear a Month after making; The Gennet-Moil a quarter of a year after; the Redstreak near Half a year after, though it's much improved by longer keeping.  
3. You may make your Cider with more ease, the Fruits you make it of ripening one after another.  
4. Tho some Fruits yield not so good Cider as others, yet the Trees may be quicker of growth, bear more plentifully, and last longer than those that yield better; and the Palates of men being various, some like one sort and some another, and so all may be pleased.  
5. Some Fruit-trees agree with the Soil and Climate better than others, which you'll not be able to know, till you have made trial of several.    

How to make a new kind of Apple or Pear.  Graft one Fruit on another many times over, every year a different kind, (so that you keep to those kinds that will grow together.) As first to Graft a Crabtree near the Ground with some good kind of Apple Graft, and the next year to Graft that again a handful or two above where the first was Grafted, and the next year to Graft that second Graft, and so proceed for five or six years, by setting Graft upon Graft, and this may probably make some alteration and commixture in the Fruit of the topmost Graft; though it be true, every Graft keeps its own nature, yet so as it receives some small alteration from the Stock, the Sap thus arising and passing through so many kinds of Stocks into the topmost, may possibly raise a new Fruit.  
The more Red any Apple hath in its Rind, the better for Cider, the paler the worse; no sweet Apple that hath a rough Rind is bad for Cider, if suffered especially to digest some time on heaps, as is hereafter directed, Chap. 29. Sect. 3.  
Mixture of Fruit is of great advantage to your Cider, the meanest Apples mixed make as good Cider as the best alone, except the Redstreak, and some few celebrated Apples for that purpose; but always observe that the Apples so mixed be of equal ripeness.   

CHAP. XXVIII. Of Annoyances to Fruit-Trees.  

Concerning Moss or Canker.  §. 1. THe nature of Soil is the chief cause of the Moss and Canker, and therefore without altering the one, you can scarce prevent the other, however you may with a hair cloth rub the Moss off, after rain, or (as some say) burn it with a bottle of Straw under the Tree: but if you only scrape or rub off the Moss, in few years they'll be as much annoyed therewith as ever; because Mossiness is caused by over coldness of the Ground; as in the Waterish and Clay Grounds, and likewise by Barrenness of the Soil. If the coldness proceed from over much moisture, lay it dryer, by Trenching the Ground; if Clay Grounds, then mix warmer Soils therewith as you are before taught at Chap. 7. Sect. 10. yet be sure you take away the present Moss.  
All Canker, filth, and Worms, must be picked clean off, and bind some Clay well mixed with Hay about the Cankered place.  
If the Tree grow but poorly, which is for the most part caused by the ill temper of the Soil, open the Ground about the Roots and put in some Manure proper to cure it.  
The Canker assaults generally the best sorts of Fruit-trees, as the Pippin, Pearmain, Harvy-Apple, Golden Rennet, etc. of Pears the Wardens of all sorts, Burgamots. etc. And it sometimes comes by galling and fretting of Boughs on each other, and sometimes by setting Trees not shallow but too deep, as well as by Barrenness of Soil, and sometimes it comes by breaking off Boughs (which should be cut off close to the Tree, though in the Summer) and Cattles nipping off the Buds or pieces of the Tree, or unseasonable Pruning.  
Raising of Stocks from Crab kernels in the same Land and Grafting on, after once removed, and placed where they are to grow and be Grafted, prevents the Canker.  
To cure the Canker at present, cut it out, if it be upon the body or great Boughs of Trees, and wash the place with Cowdung and urine mixed, and then cover the place with Clay mixed with Horse-dung, and cut off the small Branches that are dead; however stop the cause by amending the Soil at Roots with proper Manure, as the Dung of Hogs, Pigeons, Poultry, Horses, Cows, the sediments of Pools, Ponds, Currant, Shovelings of yards where Cattle frequent, etc. according to the nature of the Soil.  
§. 2. Slitting the Bark is an excellent additional help to most of the v evils, 
Bark bound.  and also for Bark binding; some advice that the Bark be cut according to the grain of it, as in Appletrees, Pear-trees, &c, strait down; in Cherries etc. round about the Trees; and where the Graft over-thrives the Stock, there slit the Stock, but not quite through the Bark, and this slitting must be done in the Spring about the middle of February, or at Candlemas.  

Some Trees prosper where others will not.  §. 3. You'll often find in the same Land some kinds of Fruit-trees very subject to some of the beforementioned evils, and others prosper well; when once you discover this (because it's utterly in vain to make Ground and Trees of different Genius agree together) you must make it your business by degrees to change your Trees, till you have left none against which your Soil beareth such an implacable hatred, and furnish it with such as will flourish and be fruitful.  
§. 4. If any of your Trees are galled by rubbing on each other, 
Bark Galled  or by being bound to Stakes, or by Thorns, or otherwise, lay some Clay upon the galled places and wrap Hay-bands about them, but withal remove the cause by Pruning, or otherwise.  
§. 5. Big Plants that upon there removal have had their Tops cut off, 
Dead Tops or bitten twigs to be cut off.  are apt to die from the place they were cut off at, to the next Sprig or Branch upon them; these dead parts, or any piece bit by , aught to be cut off close to the next good Twig or Shoot, and covered with Clay as in Grafting, that the head may be well grown over by such Twig or Shoot, and the wet prevented of getting into the Pith, to the damage of the Tree.  
§. 6. Hares and Rabbits are very mischievous to Nurseries, 
Hares and Coneys.  and young Orchards by peeling off the Bark of the Plants; if your Fence be a Wall, or close Pale, or Water, there's little danger of them, but because such Fences about Orchards are rare, and no other can keep them out, some expedient must be made use of.  
Some have used Hay Ropes bound about the Tree from the Ground a sufficient height; but this were endless in a Nursery, it may be done in an Orchard, but there are other ways to be preferred before it.  
Others therefore dawb the bodies of the Trees over with Tar, which being used alone endangers the life of very young Plants, and extremely hardens the Bark, and otherwise hurts them, which evil is prevented by mixing the Tar with any kind of Grease, and boiling them on a Fire, so as both may incorporate, then with a Brush, or little Broom, dawb over the body of the Tree, as high as an Hare or Rabbit can reach, and this is to be done about the tenth of November, it will preserve the Trees for that whole year, with that once doing, it being the Winter time only that they will feed upon the Bark.  
Some use Grease alone, and then it will require to be laid on twice in a Winter.  
Some thin stuff out of a house of Office, or the thick tempered with Water, and brushed on, once or twice in a Winter hath been often used with good success.  
And if you desire to take them, set Grins of Wire, Snares, or running Nooses of Wire (whose brittleness is allayed by the heat of Fire) at and in their Musets, or the holes they come in at, and you may take many, but scarce all before you have great mischiefs done you.  

Pismires and Aunts:  §. 7. If you find Pismires, or Aunts, breed about or near the Roots of any of your Trees, cast away the Earth they lodge in, and supply its place with some stiff Clay: If they breed distant in several places, some direct to dawb the Tree about with Tar, that their feet may be taken in it, but you heard already that's prejudicial to young Trees; but if they pester you extremely, and your Tree be young, you may bind a single list, or shred of cloth about it, and once a week (when Buds and Blossoms are putting forth, for that is the chief time they prejudice them) dawb the cloth over with Tar. And where you find their breeding places, pour scalding Water thereon.  
§. 8. Moles are to be killed, especially in Seed plots and Nurseries: 
Moles and Water Rats  Spring-traps, or Box-traps are best to destroy them, not easily described, but are now almost generally known. There are also some kinds of Cats that will not leave a Mole either in your Garden or Orchards, and some say that Water Rats will spoil a whole Nursery getting through Mole holes, and Barking or eating the young Roots, and these are said to be frequent where your Nursery is near a Fishpond.  

Suckers.  §. 9 From the Stock usually spring many Suckers, which extract the nourishment from the Tree, they must be taken off dexterously from the Root, and may be prevented by Grafting on good Stocks raised from Kernels: for Trees Grafted on, or proceeding from Suckers, are always subject to this disease, which the Canker usualy attends.  

Ests.  §. 10. Ests or (or some call them) Askers, are said to be pernicious to Trees; therefore as you find either Moles, Water Rats, or them, destroy them.  

Blast, Frosts, and Caterpilars.  §. 11. The greatest prejudice to Fruit is by Blast, Frosts immediately succeeding rain, Caterpillars, or black Flies, that eat up Buds, Leaves, and Blossoms; therefore when in the Spring you perceive these Caterpillars or Flies appear, make fires of something that will smoak, so near the Orchard, and in such places that the Wind may carry the smoke as much through the Trees as may be. A thing frequently used is Hemp sheaves (as 'tis called) being the Stalk of the Hemp, when the Tow is separated from it, and ' it's certainly very good, but bad Chaff, wet Straw, or Moldy Hay, or any thing of that nature may serve turn, and 'tis said to be good for Frosts also, but how, I know not; and you may also pluck off those Leaves which have the Cobwebs made upon them, (in which they breed) and tread them under foot, for one of them contains multitudes.  
§. 12. Snails are pernicious to Wall-fruit therefore destroy as many of them as you can, 
Snails.  when they are best to be discovered which is early in the morning.  

Cover Wall-Fruit.  §. 13. To preserve your Wall-fruit as, Apricocks, Peaches, Nectarins, etc. from blasting Winds, and Frosts, it will be necessary to cover them in the nights and cold days, by hanging before them Canvas or thick Linen , which you may draw up and let down by Pulleys.  
§. 14. Birds, as the bulfinch, Titmouse, or Tomtit, 
Birds.  etc. are affrighted best by a dry Hawk perching in the middle of the Tree, or by taking them with Bird-lime: Crows will be frighted if you kill one or two of them, and pull it in pieces, and scatter the pieces about the Trees, they'll not come their again whilst the Feathers are any thing fresh: but Magpies, Jackdaws, Jay's are not to be frighted from your Cherries, but killed as they come with a Gun, and that early in the morning.  

Earwiggs.  §. 15. Earwigs are destroyed by setting Oxhoofs, Canes, or any hollow thing near the Roots of the Trees, and among the Boughs upon the ends of sticks, and they'll Creep in, and lie there, then take off these Hoofs quickly, and shake them and crush them on the Ground with your foot.  

Cattle.  §. 16. Cattle, wheresoever they come amongst Trees, are a mighty and mischievous enemy, if the Boughs be within their reach; for then they'll by't off the ends of all, and thereby with their Teeth, so bruise the ends of the Boughs and Shoots, that the Tree seldoms thrives of many years, if ever, afterwards. Where this misfortune happens to any Tree, the only remedy is to cut off at some Sprig or Bud, so much as they have had in their mouths, or is bruised by their Teeth. And Fence your Orchards well from them, or else, which is the surest way, not to let your Trees begin to spread before they be six or seven foot high, of the Trunk or body, and so Pruned up, that all the Boughs and every part of them be so far from the Ground as will be impossible for Cattle to reach.  

Setting too deep.  §. 17. Although the setting Trees too deep and below the good Soil be no disease, yet it's the cause of many diseases to your Fruit-trees, as Moss, Barkbound, Canker, etc. therefore carefully to be avoided; setting shallow being attended with no other inconveniences, but that the Trees are sometimes blown down, if not Staked the first two years.   

CHAP. XXIX. Of Gathering Fruit, and the best way of making Cider.  
§. 1. IN gathering of Fruit, be careful that the Branches of your Trees be not battered and broken.  
§. 2. Such as you design to keep any time, ought not to be shaked off the Trees, because of bruising, but picked off with your hands: Be sure the Fruit you gather be throughly ripe, which you may know by its beginning to drop, or by cutting an Apple, and seeing the Kernels turn black: Let the Wether be fair and dry when you gather, and no dew upon the Trees; lay up what you thus gather in a close, but a sweet room, upon a boarded (but not with Deal) Floor, and not on a Clay, or plastered Floor, and lay them up without any green Leaves, or Sticks among them. As you find any in your heaps rot, pick them out, and in Frosts cover them with Straw, or Straw Mats, and also hang in sharp Frosts Blankets before the Windows to keep out the Frosts. Lay every kind by themselves.  
If you have some Pears that are choice and lasting, wrap them up in paper, and lay them one by one upon shelves, or hang them up by the Stalks, and keep out the Air from them as much as you can.  
§. 3. In gathering Cider Fruit, you must be sure to let them be well ripe on the Tree, 
Gathering of Cider Fruit and preparing it for the Mill.  for there is much Cider spoilt because the Apples are Ground before they are ripe, and all Fruits yield a different Liquor according to the different degrees of maturity of the same Fruit; for when it's most ripe it yields a richer, pleasanter and more lasting drink; but if pressed before ripe, though it yields a greater quantity, yet it's but a thin, raw, crude, sour, phlegmatic, and unwholesome drink: Therefore if your Fruit be not ripe all at one time, select such sorts as are of a like degree of maturity, or if the Wind beat down many, and you are unwilling to spoil or lose them, let them lie dry as long as you can before you grind them, to obtain as great a degree of ripeness as they can, and let that Cider be thoroughly fermented before barreled, and the first that is spent; neither mix ripe with unripe Fruit, not aught you to permit some sorts of Fruit be too ripe; because it then grows pulpy in Grinding, and will not yield its Liquor unless some Water be mixed therewith; your choice Summer Fruits are some of them, as also the Pippins, and Renating subject to pulpiness, if full ripe.  
Lay such Fruit by themselves (to be Ground and pressed for Cyderkin) that are broken; but a small bruise does not much injury.  
Your Apples being well ripe, let them be gently shaken down, and laid out of the Sun and Rain, not abroad but in a heap; upon a sweet and dry Floor that is boarded (but not with Deals, nor on a plaisterd Floor) and on dry, Rye, Wheat or Oaten Straw, till they have sweat out and digested their crude and phlegmatic humour, and there let them so lie a fortnight; the Redstreak and harder Apples you may let lie longer, that is, three weaks or a Month; the longer they lie, the less Cider indeed they will yield, but much the better, it being necessary to have them as ripe as may be, so that too many of them begin not to rot, which rotten one's are to be picked out.  
Grind not your Apples immediately from the Tree, so soon as they are throughly ripe, though they will then yield the greater quantity of Liquor, but neither pleasant nor lasting, therefore let them lie on heaps as aforesaid.  
By hoarding only of Windfalls for some time, or until the time it was expected they should have been ripe in, doth very much meliorate the Cider made of them, which otherwise might have been very bad.  
For from the due time, place, and manner of hoarding of the Fruit is oftentimes the Cider very good, which otherwise might have been very bad.  
Thus when your Fruit is duly ripe, gathered, preserved or hoarded some time, it's ready for the Mill.  
When you bring your Apples to the Mill, or just  you fill them up; pick out, or cast by, all that are Green, unripe, rotten, or otherwise naught, and all Stalks Leaves, etc. that may injure your Cider, for it's better to want a small quantity of Liquor than to spoil the whole.  
Some are of opinion that rottenness in the Apple injureth not the Cider, but that a convenient quantity of rotten. Apples mixed with the sound is a great help to the Fermentation and Clarification of the Cider; but it's supposed they mean such Apples only as have been bruised in gathering, shaking down, or carrying, which will by lying become rotten, and (the skin being whole) be not much the worse, only the Cider will retain a smack of them; notwithstanding which, by no means admit them amongst your Cider, that you intent for keeping, but rather make Cider of them for a more early spending: for others affirm, that one rotten Apple corrupts a whole Vessel, which I presume is intended only of putrid rottenness.  
§. 4. Grind not your Apples too small, for if they are not very small Ground, 
Of grinding and Pressing the Apples.  you'll have but little less Cider (although the contrary is commonly believed.)  
After your Fruit is Ground, let it stand 24 or 48 hours, according as your time and conveniency will admit, so that it be altogether in good quantities in large Vessels; by standing thus it not only matures, but acquires colour, commendable in Cider, and also causes the lesser part of the Apple easily to part with its juice in the Press; therefore observe not the general advise to press immediately from the Mill.  
You may leave a passage open in the bottom of your Fat, wherein you keep your bruised Apples, during the time of their being therein, from the grinding to the pressing; and some of the Cider may spontaneously distil into a receiver placed under it, or you may have a false Bottom full of holes, that the greater quanty may be had which may run through some Tap or other passage into your receiver: Cider thus obtained far excels that which is forced out by the Press; as Live Honey that distils of itself from the Combs, is much better than that which remains and is pressed out afterwards; but this is only used to get some small quantity of the richest Cider.  
In pressing the Apples, in case you intent not to use (which is bad husbandry) your Pulp, Must, or Murc afterwards for the making of Water Cider, usually called Purre, or Cyderkin, than it is best to press it as dry as you can, but incase you intent to add Water to your Murc, and to press it again, than you need not to press it very hard, for your Cider will then be something the worse, and so will your Purre, or Cyderkin: for the last squeezing is the weakest, and makes your Cider the rougher; and if any thing will, that gives it a Wooddy taste, unless it be prevented in the easy Grinding; but this only is observed when you intent to have some rich Cider, and Cyderkin for your own use, otherwise Cyderists generally press their Apples as hard as they can, although they intent to make Cyderkin of the Murc.  

Barrelling of Cider.  §. 5. As your Vessel under the Cyderpress fills, then take the Liquor, and pour it through some Streyner or hair Sieve (which will detain the Pulp and grosser pieces of Apples from intermixing in the Vat) into a large Vat, from whence most prescribe to tun it immediately into the Barrels wherein it's to be kept, lest its spirits should evaporate; but others rather choose to cast a cloth only over the Vat or Tun to preserve it, and rather waste and consume the wild Spirit of the Cider, in the Tun or Vat, and let it there in some small degree purify by standing covered five or six hours in the Vat, before you put it into the Barrel it's to be kept in; then they separate the pure from the impure by leaving as many Feces or Dregs to remain on the bottom of the Vat as possible; because Dregs very much incommode your Cider by making it quickly become acid.  
Then Tun up the purest (leaving the sediment at bottom of the Vat) Liquor in a Hogshead or Barrel, seasoned and sweet, fill it not up by two Gallons at least, and stop it up only with a lose stopper for four or five days, and then stop it up close with Clay on the top or Tun-hole, and put a Cork or some stopper in ●●e Vent-hole, loosely putting in the Peg; but for a weeks time or more, you may once a day draw it forth a little, lest it break the Vessel, or force some other vent; then stop it close up also, and so let it stand till you think it may be something clear, and then pierce it, to try how it fines; The Summer Fruit after a Month, the Moil after the first Frosts, the Red streak not till after January, other Winter-Fruit Cider about the same time.  
If the Cider be so clear that it will not again ferment, and you intent to keep it long in the Barrel; put in clean unground Wheat, after the proportion of a quart to a Hogshead, which will preserve it; and this artificial head is only to be used, where an admission of Air may probably be into the Vessel.  
Stopping of Cider with Clay, if you design to keep it long, is not so good as a Wooden Plug, turned fit to the Bunghole, and covered about with a single brown paper wet, before you wring it into its place, and then let the Plug be well luted on the top and sides with Clay temperred with Salt.  

How to fine or clear Cider.  §. 6. If your Cider be not fine at the times aforementioned, try them again about a Month after, and then if it be not fine, rack it off as you would do Wine, setting another Vessel in a convenient place, that through a pipe of Leather, or a Siphon, or a Crane of some metal, (as of Latin) or Glass, the Liquor may run out of the one into the other, without being exposed to the Air, which is a most material thing to take care of at all times, the spirits of Cider being very apt to evaporate.  
Some choose rather to fine their Cider with Water Glue, commonly called Isinglass, than by racking it. And the common and best way is that amongst Vintners, etc. that have frequent use for it; and it is to dissolve a considerable quantity of Isinglass in White Wine, without putting it on the fire, which it will do in about a Month's time, and turn to a Jelly, which they keep by them, and it will keep good a Twelvemonth; and when they have occasion to use it, remove the Scum that will be on the top of it, and take what quantity will serve their turn out of it, according to the proportion of a quart to a Hogshead; and this they beat to a froth, and mix it with a quantity of the Liquor it's to be put in, and them pour it into the Vessel mixing it well together with a Broom, and so leaving the work.  
Or if your Cider hath stood long, and will not be fine, as ostentimes it so happeneth; Then take Isinglass about an Ounce to an Hogshead, and steep it a day or two in about two quarts of Cider until the whole be reduced to a Jelly, which by standing warm it will easily do, then draw off about a Gallon of the Cider, and mix the Jelly (being cold) throughly with it, and put the whole into the Vessel of Cider at the Bung, and with a split staff, stir it well together, and in a day or two it will be fine without any prejudice to your Cider.  
This way of purification will serve in all sorts of Liquors, and is much to be preferred in the juices of Fruits, to that vulgar way of making them to Ferment by the addition of Yeast, or Toasts therein dipped, as is usually prescribed; that being but an Acid excitation to Fermentation, all things tending to Acidity being (as much as may be) in our operations to be avoided.  
This way also is better than the tedious way of Percolation, and racking from Vessel to Vessel, which wastes not only the Spirits, but substance of the Liquor itself, and leaves you but a thin and flat drink, hardly balancing your trouble.  
When your Cider is very fine, either draw it out of the Vessel as you drink it, or which is far better, Bottle it: And take notice after it is fine, the sooner you draw it off the better.  
§. 7. Although your Cider be well made, yet if it be put into ill shaped, corrupt, 
Of Vessels for Cider.  faulty, and unsound Vessels, it's certainly spoiled. Although the vulgar round Barrel be most useful, and necessary for Transportation from one place to another, yet is the upright Vessel, whose Ribs are straight, and the head about a fourth or fifth part broader than the bottom, and the height equal to the Diameter of the upper part, the best form to stand in a Cellar. The Bunghole of about two Inches Diameter, is to be on the top with a Plug of Wood turned round exactly to fit into it, near unto which there must be a small Vent-hole, that after the Cider is tumned up, and stopped at the Bung or Tun-hole, you may give it Vent at pleasure; and that when you draw it forth, you may there admit Air into the Vessel. This is called in Lancashire, a Stand Barrel, because it's made after the form of a Vessel which the meaner sort of People keep their drink in, called a Stand. This form is preferred; because that most Liquors contract a skin, or cream on the top, which helps much their preservation, and is in other forms broken by the sinking of the Liquor, but in this is kept whole; which occasions the freshness of the drink to the last. The form hereof is thus.  
The Form of the Vessel: ∽  


a the Bung hole  
b a small Vent hole  
c the tap     depiction of vessel 
If the Vessel you put Cider in be New, scald it well with hot Water, wherein some of the Must, Murc, or Pouz of the Apples have been boiled.  
If your Vessel be tainted, take five or six Stones or more of some unslak'd Lime, and put it in the Vessel with six or seven Gallons of Water, and stopping it well, Roll it about a while till the Lime be thoroughly slacked.  
Wine Cask, if sweet, are accounted proper to keep Cider in; but Vessels out of which strong Beer, or Ale have been lately drawn are to be rejected, unless throughly scalded and seasoned as before, which then will serve indifferently well, nothing agreeing worse with Cider than Malt. Small Beer Vessels well scalded are not amiss. White or Rhenish Wine Vessels may do well for present drinking, or for luscious Cider, else they are apt to cause too great a Fermentation.  
The using of Cider Vessels between the Cider seasons, with Beer or Ale, not only very much prejudiceth the Cider, but the using of them for Cider, injureth very much the next Brewing of Ale or Beer. But if you are enforced to use such, let them be well seasoned and scalded as before.  
To Sent your Cask as Vintners do for their Wines, do thus, viz. Take of Brimstone four Ounces, of burned Alum one Ounce, and of Aqua Vitae two Ounces, melt these together in an Earthen Pan over hot Coals, then dip therein a piece of new Canvas, and instantly sprinkle thereon, the powders of Nutmegs, Cloves, Mace, Ginger, Cinnamon, Coriander, and anise Seeds, and by a wire let it down into the Vessel, and set the Canvas on fire, and let it burn, and it will fill the Vessel full of smoke, then take it out, and immediately Tun up your Liquor, which gives it no ill taste, nor savour, and is an excellent preserver both of the Liquor and your health.  
Some take Brimstone, Orras Roots, and Mastic, of each a like quantity melted altogether, and long narrow pieces of new Canvas drawn through it, being lighted, and put in at the Bunghole, keeps the Cider long, clear, and good, and gives it a pleasant taste.  
Cider by time changes its greenish colour for a bright Yellow, inclining to Redness.  
Vessels wherein Malaga, Canary, Sherry, or Metheglin have been kept, will much advance the Colour and taste of your Cider, especially if some of the Lees of Canary, or Malaga, be left therein, viz. about two or three quarts.  
If your Vessel be musty, Boyl Pepper in Water after the proportion of an Ounce to an Hogshead; fill your Vessel therewith scalding hot, and so let it stand two or three days, or instead thereof use Lime as aforesaid.  
Wheat Bran cast into the Vessel after Fermentation, thickens the Coat or Cream of Cider, and conduces very much to the preservation thereof.  

Choice of Bottles as Corks for Cider.  §. 8. Thick, double Glass Bottles containing about quarts apiece, are preferred very much to Stone Bottles; because that Stone Bottles are apt to Leak, and more apt to taint than the other, and are so rough in the mouth that they are not easily uncorked, neither are they transparent, that you may discern when they are foul or clean; it being otherwise with Glass Bottles, whose defects are easily discerned, and are of a more compact metal, or substance, not wasting so many Corks. If Glass Bottles happen to be musty, they are easily cured, by boiling them in a Vessel of Water, putting them in whilst the Water is cold, which prevents the danger of breaking, if you be so cautious as not to set them down suddenly on a cold Floor, but upon Straw, Board, or such like.  
If your Glass Bottles be foul, you may cleanse them with hard Sand, or some Lead-Shot (each about the bigness of an ordinary Pease) rolled, and tumbled up and down with Water, which will also in some degree take away the mustiness from them. Great care is to be had in choosing good Corks, much good Liquor being absolutely spoiled through the only defect of the Cork; If the Corks are steeped in scalding Water a while before you use them, they will comply better with the mouth of the Bottle, than if forced in dry: also the moisture of the Cork doth advantage it in detaining the Spirits.  
§. 9. Drawing of Cider into Bottles, and keeping it in them well stopped for some time, 
Bottling of Cider.  is a great improver of Cider. This is done after it is throughly purified, and at any time of the year; if it be bottled early, there needs no addition, it having body and spirit enough to retrieve in the Bottle what it lost in the Barrel: But if it have been over-fermented, and thereby become poor, flat and eager, then in the Bottling if you add a small quantity of Loaf Sugar, more or less according as it may require, it will give a new life to the Cider, and probably make it better than ever it was before, especially if it were but a little acid, and not Eager.  
When your Cider is thus Bottled, if it were new at the Bottling, and not absolutely pure, it is good to let the Bottles stand a while uncorked before you stop them close, or else open the Corks two or three days after, to give the Cider Air, which will prevent the breaking the Bottles against the next turning of the Wind to the South.  
The meaner Cider is more apt to break the Bottles than the richer; being of a more Eager nature, and the spirits more apt to fly, having not so solid a body to detain them as the rich Cyders.  
Observe that when the Bottle breaks through the Fermentation of the Cider, to open your Corks, and give vent, and stop them up again a while after, lest you lose many for want of this caution. Lay your Bottles sideways, not only for preserving the Corks moist, but for that the Air that remains in the Bottle is on the side of the Bottle, where it can neither expire, not can New be admitted, the Liquor being against the Cork, which not so easily passeth through the Cork, as the Air. Some place their Bottles on a Frame, with their mouth downwards for that end, which is not to be so well approved of, by reason that if there be any the least settling in the Bottle, you are sure to have it the first Glass.  
Placing Bottles on a Frame, as is usual, or on Shelves, is not so good as on the Ground; by reason the farther from the Ground they stand, the more are they subject to the Variation of the Air, which is always more rare in the upper, than lower part of a Cellar, or other Room. Setting Bottles in Sand is much used, but without reason, because it adds not that coldness to the Bottles as is generally expected, being rather of a dry and temperate quality than cold.  
The placing of Bottles in Wells, or in Cisterns of Spring Water running, or very often changed, is questionless the best way to preserve either Ale, Cider or any other Vinous Liquor.  
A Conservatory made where a continual recruit of a cool refrigatory Spring Water may conveniently be had, will so long preserve Cider until it become to the strength even of Canary itself.  
Where you have not conveniency of Water, or are unwilling to be at the expense of making such Conservatories, there the best way is to dig Vaults in your Cellars, under the level of the bottom, or to make Niches in the Walls near the Ground, and in them place your Bottles leaning: for the more they are from the Air, and the more they are encompassed with Stone or Earth, the cooler they will continue, and the less subject to the inconveniences that happen from the mutability of the Ambient Air.  
Binding down the Corks of your Bottles in case of danger is not so much to be commended, as well fitting them in by full Corks; because the Liquor were better fly the Cork, that break the Bottles, which must be in case the Cork be tied down, and the Liquor not well qualified.  

Restoring of Decayed Cider.  §. 10. Sometimes Cider that hath been good, by ill managment, or other accident becomes dead, flat, sour, thick, muddy, or musty, all which in one sort or other may be helped.  
Deadness or flatness in Cider is often occasioned, from the too free admission of Air into the Vessel, for want of right stopping; which is cured by pressing some Apples, and put up only the new Must or Cider that comes from them on the decayed Cider, and stopping it close, only sometimes trying it by opening the small vent, that it force not the Vessel. The same may be done in Bottles, by adding a spoonful or two of new Must or Cider to each Bottle of dead Cider, and stopping it again. Cider that is dead or flat, will oftentimes revive again of itself, if close stopped, upon the Revolution of the year and approaching Summer.  
But Cider that hath acquired a deadness or flatness, by being kept in a Beer or Ale Vessel, is not to be revived, the smack of the Beer or Ale being the only cause of it, will always predominate,  
Honey or Sugar mixed with some Spices and added to the Cider that is flat, revives it much; let the proportion be according as the distemper is that requires it.  
If Cider be Acid, as sometimes it happens, by reason of the Immaturity of the Fruit too nimble an operation, too great a Fermentation in the Vessel, or too warm a situation of your Vessels wherein it is kept, this sometimes becomes pleasant again, in case it's Lee be yet in the Vessel, as is supposed by a second operation on it; but in case it doth not, if you add about a Gallon of unground Wheat to a Hogshead of it, it will very much sweeten it, and make it pleasant; The same effect will two or three Eggs put in whole, or a pound of Figgs slit, produce, as is reported; but the surest remedy is Bottling it with a knob of Sugar proportioned according to the occasion.  
Wheat Boiled till it begin to break, and when cold, added to the Cider, but not in too great a quantity, and stirred into it, helpeth it much.  
If your Cider be Musty, which happens either from the place the Fruit lay in before Grinding, or from the Vessels through which the Pulp or Must hath past, or that the Cider is contained in, the cure thereof is very difficult, although in some measure the ill savour of it may be corrected, by Mustardseed ground with some of the same Cider.  
Thick Cider is easily cured at what Age soever, by exciting it to a Fermentation, and purifying it with Isinglass, as is before directed.  
Note that there are several Cider Mills lately found out which are better understood by seeing one, than any description can be given, and they are excellent to grind Apples before you press them.  

Of making Water Cider, Purre or Cyderkin.  §. 11. It's observed that many sorts of Apples throughly ripe, will endure some addition of Water, without any prejudice to the drink, especially in the Island of Jersay, where they frequently give it a dash; this dilution is only with Apples of a mellow and rich juice, and is necessary to help its clarification, the Cider itself being of too glutinous a substance, and they not acquainted with any other way of attenuating it.  
If your Apples be pulpy or mellow, they will yield their juice with difficulty, unless Water be added, but you may press them easily at first, and extract a small quantity of the richest juice, and then add of Water boiled one hour, but cold again, to the remaining Pulp, which after 48 hours standing will yield you so rich a Liquor, that shall exceed most Cyders drawn from newly ripened Fruit.  
To some sorts of Fruit that are of themselves acid, crude, or of a thin juice, dilution is very improper; but if the Water be boiled and let stand till it be cold, it will be the better, that abating much of its crudity.  
Water mixed with the Fruit when Ground, and permitted to stand 48 hours, incorporateth abundantly better, than if added in the Vessel; and if mixed in the Vessel, better than if added in the Glass.  
By the additon of Water no other advantage can be expected than the increase of the Liquor, as more small Beer than strong is usually made of the same quantity of Malt. For the ordinary expense in house keeping, you may make Cyderkin or Purre after you have Pressed out your Cider, by putting the Murc, Must, or Pouz up into a large Vat, and add thereto what quantity you think convenient of boiled Water (being first cold again:) if about half that quantity as was of the Cider that was Pressed from it, it will be good; if as much as the Cider, then but small: Let this Water-stand upon it about 48 hours, and then Press it well.  
That which comes from the Press, Tun up immediately, and stop it up, and you may drink it in a few days.  
This being the most part Water, will clarify of itself, and supplies the place of small Beer in a Family, and to many much more acceptable.  
You may amend it by the addition of the Settling, Sediment, or Lee of your Cider you last purified, by putting it upon the Pulp before pressure, or by adding some overplus of Cider, that your other Vessels will not ●old, or by Grinding some fallen or 〈◊〉 Apples, that were not fit to be added to your Cider, and pressing it with this.  
This Cyderkin or Purre may be made to keep long, in case you boil it after pressure, with such a proportion of dry Hops (but not Green Hops) as you usually add to your Beer that you intent to keep for the same time, and it will thus be very well preserved, but than you need not boil your Water before the adding it to your Murc, Must, or Pouz.  

How to make choice Cider.  §. 12. If any one shall desire a small quantity of Cider extraordinary for its goodness, let him take the Liquor that comes first from the Must without much Pressing, and dispose of what comes afterwards by itself, or mix it with the juice of another Grinding.  
Some have been so curious, as to pick off the Trees the ripest Apples, and especially those that have had most of the Sun, and to make use of them by themselves for choice and rich Cider.  

How to make Perry  §. 13. Perry is made the very same way as Cider, only observe not to let your Pears be very ripe before you Grind them, for if they should be too mellow when Ground, they are so Pulpy, that they will not easily part with their juice: and it's advised by some to mix Crabs at Grinding among the Pears, especially of weakest juice, and it's affirmed they'll very much mend and improve the Perry: The proportion must be with discretion according as the sweetness of the Pear requires.  
§. 14. The best addition that can be made to Cider is that of the Lees of Malaga Sack, 
Of mixtures must Cider  or Canary new and sweet; about a Gallon to a Hogshead; this is a great improver and purifier of Cider.  
The juice of Raspberries preserved, or the Wine thereof, gives an excellent tincture to this Liquor, and makes it very pleasant, if the Cider be not too new, or too luscious. When you Bottle Cider, put into every Bottle▪ a little Conserve of Raspberries, and it gives it a curious taste.  
Elderberries are of great esteem to thing Cider with, which may be thus done, Take a Gallon or more of clean picked and full ripe Elderberries; put them in a Pot and cover it with a Paper, set them in this Pot in an Oven immediately after you have drawn forth your Household Bread, let them stand till the Oven be cold, if they be not enough, heat the Oven again, but not too hot, and set them in it again; when taken out, strain out the juice, which will be thin and clear, and Bottle it up with Loaf Sugar for use. Two or three spoonfuls of this mixed in a quart Bottle of Cider at the Bottling makes it of a fine Red colour, pleasant to the Taste, and endows it with all the Medicinal virtues of the Elder-berry.  
In like manner you may use Mulberries and Blackberries, which will give cooling tinctures to Cider.  
If your Oven be not very hot, set the Elderberries, etc. in with the Bread.  

To make Curran Wines, &c,  §. 15. Take Twelve quarts of full ripe and clean picked Currans, put them into a Stone Mortar, and there bruise them with a wooden , or else rub them in pieces with your hands, than put them into a well Glazed Earthen Pot, and thereunto put of boiling hot Water that hath been boiled a full hour, Twelve quarts; stir them about very well with a wooden Slice in the Water, and let them stand 24 hours to infuse, then drain them through a hair Sieve, and put the Liquor into a small Barrel well seasoned, and sweet, or into an Earthen Pot close covered, and add to each Gallon of Liquor Two pounds of bruised Loaf Sugar, and let the Liquor stand in a cool Cellar, six or seven weeks well stopped, only sometimes, if in a Barrel, give it a little vent, else it will break the Vessel; Then take off the Scum or Cream that is on the top of the Liquor, and let the Liquor run through a fine Strainer, and Bottle it, putting into every Bottle a little spoonful of beaten brown Sugar Candy, and in six weeks it will be ready for drinking: Let the Bottles be strong ones, else it will break them, only you may prevent that, by opening your Bottles and let them stand a whole day uncorked, if it either cause the Corks to fly, or break any of your Bottles, or put the Corks loosely in at the first, and then knock them in close after some time.  
Thus you may make excellent and delicate Wines of Currans, Blackberries, Raspberries, Goosberries, only let not your Goosberries be too ripe, but all the rest full ripe.  
If you desire the Wine to be stronger than this, put but a Pint and half, or a Pint of boiling Water to each Quart of the Fruit, and you may make a second and smaller sort of Wine, of the Must, Murc or Pouz of your Fruit.  

Another way of making the said Wines of Currans etc. but not so good as the former except for Cherrie-Wine.  §. 16. For every pound of clean picked, and ripe Fruit stamped, and the Liquor or juice pressed out, take a Quart of Spring Water, and a quarter of a pound of fine White Sugar, boil the Water and Sugar, Scum it and put in the juice of your Fruit, then let it boil up again, take it off the Fire, run it through a hair Sieve, and when it's throughly cold, put it in a stean Pot or Vessel close covered, and placed 15 days in a cool Cellar, then draw it out into Bottles, put into each Bottle the quantity of a Nutmeg of Loaf Sugar, it will not be fit to drink under a quarter of a years time, and will keep good a year.  

Cherry Wine.  According to this last direction, you may also make Cherry Wine, or to make it stronger use no more Water than juice of the Cherries. When you bottle any of these Wines you may put the Corks loosely in for some time before you stop them close.  

Cherry Brandy.  §. 17. Cherry Brandy is usually made with Black Cherries, by filling a Bottle half full of Cherries, and putting in the Brandy till the Bottle is near full; shake it sometimes, within a Month it will be ready to drink, but keep it in a cool Cellar.  

Goosberry Brandy.  §. 18. If you put the like quantity of Goosberries instead of Cherries, it will make the Brandy very delicious.  

How to make Metheglin or Hydromel.  §. 19 Take Live Honey (which is that Honey that naturally runs from the Combs without pressure, by laying the Combs on a Sieve, and placing a Vessel under it to receive the Honey) and add what quantity of Honey you please, to clear Spring Water, (about the proportion of a Pint of Honey to a quart of Water) then boil this Liquor in a Brass, or rather Copper Vessel, for about an hour or more, then let it cool, the next morning you may Barrel it up, adding to the proportion of 15 Gallons, an Ounce of Ginger, half an Ounce of Cinnamon, of Cloves and Mace of each an Ounce, all grossly beaten, for if you beat them fine, they will always float in your Metheglin, and make it foul, and if you put them in whilst it is hot, the Spices will lose their Spirits: You may also, if you please, add a spoonful of Yeast, or Ale Barm, at the Bunghole to increase its Fermentation, but let it not stand too cold at the first, that being a principal impediment to its Fermentation; As soon as it hath done working, stop it close, and let it stand for a Month; then draw it into Bottles, which set it in a cool Cellar, or Refrigeratory of Spring Water, and it will become a most pleasant Vinous Drink, daily losing its luscious taste; and the longer it is kept the better it will be.  
You may make it more or less strong as you please, by adding of more Honey, or more Water.  
By long Boiling it is made more pleasant, and more durable.  
All Green Herbs are apt to make Metheglin flat or dead, therefore use your Herbs after they are well dried in the shade: Cloves are apt to make it high coloured; and the Scumming of it in the boiling is not advantageous but injurious to it, because the Scum being of the nature of Yeast or Barm, helps to ferment and purify.  

How to make small Meath.  §. 20. Take 24 Quarts of clear Spring Water, that hath been boiled with Liquorish, Rosemary, Bays, Fennel and Pursly Roots, of each half a handful, till it taste strong of them, which will be in half an hours boiling; put the Water through a Sieve, and add full eight Pints of Honey to it; When it is dissolved set it over the Fire in a Brass, or rather Copper Pan; let it boil a quarter of an hour after it would boil all over, in which time continue to Scum it clean; put it then into Earthen Pans, and when it is cold as Wort is when it is put together, pour off the clear into a Pale, and put to it about one Pint and half of Ale Barm, or Yeast, which must be poured in by degrees as it works; when it hath stood all together a day and a night, Tun it up together in an Earthen Pot that hath a Spigot, and hang in it a bag with Nutmeg, Ginger, and Cinnamon, quartered or sliced; if the weather be cold, cover it; it must stand till the Barm gins to shrink from the sides, which will be in eight or ten days; then Bottle it, and let it stand all night, with Corks put loosely in; the next day give them Air, and knock them down; if the Wether be hot, put them in the Cellar, otherwise in some warmer place to ripen, it will be ready to drink in a Month.  
You may this way make Metheglin by adding a grater quantity of Honey; and the same is highly commended.  

Of Birch Wine.  §. 21. You may easily extract great quantities of the juice of the Birch-tree by cutting off the ends of the Boughs of the Tree, and hanging Bottles thereon, leaving the ends of the Boughs fit to go into the Bottles mouths, and the Liquor will therein distil. Or with more ease cut a Swan or Goose quill at one end, in the shape of an Apple scoop or Apple Scraper, and with a Gimlet make a hole in the body of the Birch-tree, and put in this Quill with the mouth upwards, and set a Pot under the other end of the Quill, and great quantities of the juice or Liquor will fall through the Quill into the Pot; but that Liquor which comes from the Branches, being better and longer digested, is better than that which comes from the Trunk of the Tree. And this is only to be done from the end of February, to the end of March, of this Liquor or juice of the Birch is made a very wholesome and medicinable Wine in this manner, viz.  
To every Gallon of the Liquor add a pound of refined Sugar, and boil it about a quarter or half an hour, than set it to cool, and add a very little Yeast to it, and it will Ferment and thereby purge itself from that little dross, the Liquor and Sugar can yield; then put it in a Barrel, and add thereto a small proportion of Cinnamon and Mace bruised, about half an Ounce of both to ten Gallons; then stop it very close, and about a Month after Bottle it, and in a few days you'll have a most delicate Wine of a Flavour like unto Rhenish: It's Spirits are so Volatile that they are apt to break the Bottles, unless placed in a Refrigeratory, and when poured out, it gives a White head in the Glass. This Liquor is not of long duration unless preserved very cool. Instead of every pound of Sugar, if you add a quart of Live Honey and boil it as before, and adding Spice, and Fermenting it as you should do Metheglin, it makes an admired Drink, both pleasant and medicinable.  
Ale Brewed of the juice or Sap of the Birch-tree is esteemed very wholesome.  
Birch Wine, as also Birch Ale, are excellent remedies against the Stone; Van Helmont being the first that discovered its virtue, mightily commends it.  
If when you make your Metheglin you use the juice of the Birch instead of Water, and when Barrelled, you for every Gallon of the Liquor hang four Ounces of Daucus Seed, something bruised in a bag in the Liquor, it's said to be very good for the Stone.  

Profits of Planting.  §. 22. The advantage in Planting Trees may thus easily be computed, viz. An Acre of Ground (accounting eight yards to the Pole or Perch) will take about 160 Trees, which may be set at distance enough; which Trees if bought, and not raised by yourself, may be had for about six pounds, when set and staked; the yearly prosit of the herbage or Tillage of this Acre of Ground for the first seven year● after Planting, may well be employed in digging about the Roots of the Trees, carrying off convenient and proper Soil, or Compost for them, maintaining the Fences, paying duties, etc. At the seven year● end, these 160 Trees, one Tree with another, will yield a Bushel (accounting 32 Quarts to the Bushel) of Apples 〈◊〉 Tree, although some of them may have perished, and others as yet but young raised in their places, yet may some of these Trees at seven years' growth, bear two or three Bushels, and some a Bushel and an half, which may in the whole amount to one hundred and sixty Bushels, which at six pence per Bushel is four Pound; the Herbage than will be worth at least thirty Shillings per Annum, although the Ground were worth less before it was Planted; the eighth or ninth year your Trees may one with another, and one year with another yield you at least two or three Bushels on a Tree, and sometimes more, which at so low a rate, your six Pound first expended, and the forbearance of the profit of your Land, and interest of your Money for seven years, will bring you at least eight Pounds per Annum, the Herbage being still allowed, for the maintenance of your Plantation; but if a good Fruit year happen, and your 160 Trees yield you six or seven hundred Bushels, and those worth twelve pence, or eight pence the Bushel, it will in one year more than retaliate all your past labour, charge and loss, and yourself will be furnished with an excellent Orchard, very serviceable to your Family both in baking, and making strong, and small Cider for your Table, and thereby saving great quantities of Malt.  
A Bushel and half, or 48 Quarts of Apples will make 18, 20, 22, or sometimes 24. Quarts of Cider, according to the goodness of your Fruit for that purpose, and there will also be so much Cyderkin made of the Pouz, or Murc, as will be better worth than the charge of Grinding and Pressing, etc. Twenty Bushels commonly make a Hogshead of Cider.  
They that are desirous to understand the ordering of a Garden, either for the Kitchen, or Flowers, let them peruse a Book called, The English Gardener, writ by Leonard Meagar, and therein they'll find both ample and true instructions.  
Although there is no Liquor, Drink, or Diet alike pleasant to all; some preferring Dull Coffee before any other, some stolen Beer, others fat Ale, or Mum; one Claret, another Sack; yet our English know no other Drink so generally palatable as Cider, because it may be made suit with any humourous Drinker. It's made Luscious by the addition of a good quantity of sweet Apples at the Grinding; pleasant, being made with Pippins or Genent-Moyls; Racy, Poignant, Oily, Spicy, and Rich, with the Redstreak, and several other sorts of Fruits, even as the Operator pleases. And it satisfies thirst, if not too stolen, more than any other usual Drink whatsoever; and in such years as Corn is dear, the best Cider may be made at a far easier rate than ordinary Ale. The considerations whereof adds much to the exhilerating virtue of this Drink.  
Next unto Cider, Perry claims the precedency, especially if made of the best juicy Pears celebrated for that purpose, as the Bosbery-Pear, Bareland-Pear, the Red and White Horse-Pear, or many sorts of wild and choke Pears, but above all the Turgovian Pear.  
Wines or Drinks made of Currans, Goosberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Cherries, or Plums, prepared and made as is before taught, may be more acceptable to our Palates, healthy, pleasant, and profitable than those exotic Wines many are so fond of and Dote on.  
And in this very year 1682, I know Wine made of the White Dutch Curran, according to the direction of the 15 Sect. of this Chap. (only there was but a Pint of Water added to each Quart of the Fruit) far superior to the best French White Whine could be bought in our Country, if several judicious Palates were not mistaken.  
℞ Of Diapalmae, and of Deminio Composit. of each two Ounces, 
How to Liquor Boots or Shoes to walk in the Fields and Orchards to keep out wet.  and of Hogs-grease rendered (no Salt being in it) half a Pound, melt them together, keeping continual stirring, and Liquor the Leather and Soles therewith, before the Boots or Shoes are shaped out, and afterwards when occasion is, the Liquor must be warm when used.  

An Abridgement of the Statutes of 43, Eliz. Cap. 7. and 15, Car. 2. Cap. 2.  

Laws against breaking Orchards and stealing Trees and Wood, etc.  IF any shall be Convicted by his own Confession, or by the Testimony of one Witness upon Oath, before one Justice of Peace, or Head Officer, to have unlawfully cut and taken away, any Grain growing, rob any Orchard or Garden, digged up or taken away any Fruit Trees, broken any Hedges, Pales, or other Fences, cut or spoiled any Woods or under Woods, standing and growing, or the like, or to have been accessary thereunto, shall for the first offence pay unto the party grieved, such damages and within such time, as by the said Justice, or head Officer shall be appointed: And in case the pary offending shall not by the said Justice or Officer, be thought able to discharge the sade damages, or shall not discharge them according to the said Order, then shall the said Offender be by them, or either of them (respectiuly) committed to the Constable, or other Officer of the place, where the Offence was committed, or the party apprehended, to be Whipped, and for every other offence committed afterwards, and proved as aforesaid, the party offending shall receive the like punishment of Whipping.  
The Constable, or other inferior Officer that herein refuseth or neglecteth to do his duty, shall by any such Justice of Peace or Head Officer be committed to Prison without Bail, till he Whip, or cause to be Whipped the party offending, as is above limited.  
No Justice of Peace shall execute this Statute for Offences done to himself, unless he be Associated with one or more Justices of Peace, whom the Offence doth not concern. Vid. the Statute of 43. Eliz. Cap. 7. at large.  
Statute, 15. Car. 2. Cap. 2. reciting the Statute of 43. Eliz. Cap. 7. doth not sufficiently prevent, nor punish the Cutting and spoiling of Woods, Enacts, that ever Constable, Headborough, and other person in every County, City, or other place, where they shall be Officers or Inhabitants, shall and may Apprehend, or cause to be Apprehended, every person they shall suspect having, carrying, or conveying, any burden or Bundle of Wood, Poles, young Trees, Bark, Bast of Trees, Gates, Stiles, Posts, Pales, Rails, or Hedgwood, Broom, or Furze.  
And by Warrant under the hand and Seal of any one Justice of the Peace, directed to any Officer, such Officer may enter into, and search the Houses, Yards, Gardens, and other places belonging to the House or Houses, of every person or persons they shall suspect to have any kind of such Wood, or other the said Trees, etc. and where they shall find any such, to apprehend every person suspected for Cutting and taking the same, and as well those apprehended carrying any kind of Wood or other Trees and premises; as those in whose Houses or other places belonging to them, any of the same shall be found to carry before any one Justice of the Peace of the same County: and such persons suspected do not give a good account how they came by the same by the consent of the owner, such as shall satisfy the said Justice, or within some convenient time to be set by the said Justice, produce the party of whom they bought the said Wood, or some credible witness upon Oath, to prove such sale, which Oath the said Justice may Adminster, than such persons so suspected, and not giving such good account, nor, producing such witness, shall be adjudged as convicted, for cutting and spoiling of Woods, Vnderwoods', Poles, Trees, Gates, Stiles, Posts, Pales, Rails, Hedgwood, Broom, or Furze, within the meaning of the Statute of Queen Elizabeth, and liable to the Punishments therein, and of this Act appointed.  
Every person so Convicted, shall for the first offence, give the owner satisfaction for his damages, within such time as the Justice shall appoint, and over and above, pay down to the Overseers of the Poor of the Parish where such offence is, such sum of Money (not exceeding ten shillings) as the Justice shall think meet, in default of either of which payments, the said Justice may commit Juch offender to the House of Correction for such time (not exceeding one Month) as he shall think fit, or to be Whipped by the Constable or other Officer, as in his judgement shall seem expedient.  
And If such person shall again commit the said offence, and be thereof Convicted as before, that then the persons offending the second time, and Convicted, shall be sent to the House of Correction for one Month, and there be kept to hard labour, and for the third offence, Convicted as before, shall be judged and deemed as incorrigible Rogues.  
Provided also whoever shall buy any Burdens, or any the premises mentioned in this Bill suspected to be Stolen, or unlawfully come by, the Justices, Mayors, or chief Officers, or any one of them within their respective jurisdictions, upon complaint may examine the matter upon Oath, and if they find the same was bought of any suspected to have Stolen, or unlawfully come by the same, than any one of the said Justices or chief Officers, shall and may award the party that bought the same, to pay triple the vavalue thereof to the party from whom the same was Stolen or unlawfully taken, and in default of present payment, to Issue out their respective Warrants to levy the same by distress, and Sale of the Offenders Goods, rendering the overplus to the party, and in default of such distress to commit the party to the Goal, at his own charge, there to remain one Month without Bail.  
Provided no person be questioned for any offence within this Act, unless within six weeks after the Offence committed.    

CHAP. XXX. Brief Monthly Memorials for the Planter.  

JANVARY.  
DIg, Trench, and Dung Ground, and make it ready for the Spring; prepare Soil, dig Borders; uncover as yet the Roots of old unthriving, or overhasty Blooming Trees; Plant Quicksets, transplant Fruit-trees, if not finished; set Vines, and Prune the old; Prune especially the Branches of old Planted Fruit-trees, about the decrease of the Moon; but Prune not the newly Planted till the Sap begin to stir. Cleanse Trees from Moss, the Wether moist. Nail and trim the Wall-fruit-trees, and Espalirs. Gather towards the end of the Month Cyons for Grafts of Cherries, Plums, and Pears, before they begin to sprout and any speck of White appears on the Buds, if the Wether be open. In over-wet or hard Wether cleanse, mend, sharpen and prepare all your Grafting and Garden Tools: Destroy Vermin in your Seminary of Kernels and Stones for Stocks.   

FEBRVARY.  
COntinue yet to Prune Fruit-trees, and bind, Plaish, Nail, and dress the most delicate Wall-fruit, if not finished before, but be exceeding careful of injuring the swelling Buds, and Bearers; cut and lay Quicksets, trim up the Hedges and espaliers; Plant Vines as yet and Hops; set Kernels, and Stones of all sorts. Sow and set Beans, Peas, Radish, Parsnips, Carrots, Onions, Garlic. Now is the season for circumposition by Tubs or Baskets of Earth, and laying of Branches to take Root; rub Moss from your Trees after a soaking Rain, and scrape and cleanse them of Cankers, draining away the Wet (if need require) from the too much moistened Roots. Mold and Earth up the Roots of such Fruit-trees as were bared. Pull off the Webs of Caterpillars from the Tops and Twigs of Trees, and burn them. Gather Worms in the Evening after Rain. Plant Cabbage Plants, Colliflowers, Parsley, spinach and other hardy Potherbs. Graft Cherries, Plums, and Pears, and towards the end of the Month, Apples if a forward Spring. Get Cyons for Apple-grafts. You may yet transplant Trees, though it had been better done in October, or November. Slit almost through, the Bark, your Bark-bound and Cankered Trees. Plant Potatoes, but not amongst your Fruit-trees.   

MARCH.  
DUnging is yet seasonable, and you may transplant what Trees are yet left, though it be dangerous and full late enough, unless in very backward, or moist places. You may Graft ' Apples all this Month, and in the beginning of it Plums, Cherries, and Pears; you may as yet cut Quicksets, and cover such Tree-roots as were bared in Autumn. Prune last years Grafts, and cut off the heads of your Budded Stocks. Now is best time for raising on Hot Beds, Melons, Cucumbers, Gourds. Slip and set Sage, Rosemary, Lavender, Thyme, etc. Sow in the beginning Endive, Succory, Leeks, Radish, Beets, Chard-beet, Scorzonera, Parsnips, Skirrets, Parsley, Sorrel, Bugloss, borage, Chervil, Sellery, Smallage, Alisanders', &c. Sow also Lettuce, Onions, Garlic, Orach, Purslane, Turnips, to have early, Beans, and Peas towards the full Moon, Carrots, Cabbages, Cresses, Fennel, Majoran, Dill, Scurvygrass. Set Cabbage-plants, and Colliflowers. Transplant any sort of Pot or Medicinal Herbs; Mid-march dress up and string your Strawberry Beds. Uncover Asparagus, and Transplant Asparagus-roots to make new Beds. This is the prime Month for Botling Cider, and if you put in about half a spoonful of Spirit of Clary, it will make the Liquor so perfectly to resemble the very best Canary, that few good and exercised Palates will be able to distinguish it. Set Potatoes, but not amongst your Fruit-trees; Sets them thus, Blow or Dig Ground into Butts or Borders about six Foot broad, but leave two Foot intervals; then Harrow or Rake it well, then spread Rotten Dung thereon, on the top whereof lay Potato Sets, than Shovel up the Earth in the intervals, and cover the Sets two or three Inches thick. Most sorts of Salad, Pot, and sweet Herbs may be sown from the first of March, to the end of July, and mosts sorts of setting Herbs may be removed, slipped and parted the same time.   

APRIL.  
PLant Artichock Slips, set great Beans, and sow Carrots; if the Spring be not forward you may yet Graft Apples in the beginning of the Month. Gather Worms, Snails, after evening showers and after all the Summer Rains: and destroy Caterpillare Webs, and smoke Caterpillars and black Flies from your Trees. Mow Carpet Walks. Weed your Currants, Goosberries, etc. From the beginning to the middle set Potatoes, but not amongst Fruit-trees. You may yet slip Lavender, Thyme, Rosemary, etc. Towards the middle begin to Plant forth your Melons, Cucumbers and so to the later end, your Ridges well prepared. Sow sweet Majoran, Hyssop, Basil, Winter Savory, Scurvygrass, Lettuce, Purslane, Coliflowers, Radish, Thyme, and all fine and tender Seeds. Clip Shrubs after showers.   

MAY.  
COntinue your Weeding before they run to Seeds, and with Sheers top your Currants, and Goosberries. Sow sweet Majoran, Basil, Thyme, hot and Aromatic Herbs and plants which are most tender. Sow Purslane to have young, Lettuce, large sided Cabbage, Painted Beans. Look to your Melons, and towards the end of the Month forbear any longer to cover them.   

JUNE.  
SOw Lettuce, Chervil, Radish, etc. to have young and tender Salleting, spinach. Cleanse Vines of exuberant Branches cropping not cutting, and shopping the joint immediately before they Blossom, and some of the under Branches that bear no Fruit, especially in young Vineyards when they first begin to bear, and thence forwards. Gather Herbs in the full to keep dry, they keep and retain their Virtue and sweet smell better dried in the Sun, than shade, whatever some pretend.  
About a fortnight before and as much after Midsummer are the chief and best times to Inoculate Peaches, Apricocks, Cherries, Plums, Pears, Nectarins, and Apples. Water lately Planted Trees, and put moist and half rotten Fearn, Weeds, and Vegatables about the foot of their Stems. Continue Weeding, and gather Snails after Rain. Unbind those Grafts you bond. About 14 days before or after Midsummer, sow Turnips upon Ground prepared as for Barley; after Midsummer makes the better Turnip. Three Pints of Seed will sow an Acre, accounting seven yards to the Pole; your Seed is to be mixed with dry Sand thus, Three spoonfuls of Seed with a peck of Sand, then sow; if immediately after sowing a shower of Rain and hot Sungleams happen, it's spoiled.   

JULY.  
SOw Lettuce, Radish, spinach, etc. for late and tender salleting. Sow later Peas to be ripe six weeks after Michaelmas. Water young Planted Trees and Layers. Prune now Apricocks, and Peaches, saving as many of the young likeliest Shoots as are well placed, for the now bearers commonly perish the new ones succeeding: Cut close and even. Let such Potherbs run to Seed as you would save. About the eighth Inoculate such Fruits as in June are directed, and sow Turnips also then and towards the full Moon. Towards the later end visit your Vineyards again, and stop the exuberant Shoots above the Fruit, but so as not to expose them to the Sun. Search under Wall-tree-leaves for Snails, they stick commonly about the Fruit, pull not off what is bitten, for then they'll begin afresh. Now (in the driest season) with Brine, Pot Ashes and Water, or a decoction of Tobacco refuse, Water your Gravel Walks, etc. to destroy both Worms, and Weeds, of which it will cure them for some years. Continue Weeding; gather Currans to make Wine of. Make ready your Cider Mill and Press, etc.   

AUGUST.  
INoculate now early if you began not before. Prune off yet superfluous Branches and Shoots of this second Spring, but leave some Leaves to screen the Fruit from the Sun, furnishing and nailing what you will spare to cover the defects of your Walls. Pull up the Suckers. Sow Radishes, tender Cabbages, cauliflowers for Winter Plants, Corn-sallet, Marigold, Lettuce, Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, spinach, Onions, also curled Endive, Angelica, Scurvygrass, etc. pull up ripe Onions and Garlic, etc. Towards the end sow Purslan, Chard, Beet, Chervil, etc. Transplant such Lettuce as you'll have abide all Winter. Gather your Olitory Seeds, and clip and cut all such Herbs and Plants within one handful of the Ground. Before the full, unbind and release the Buds you Inoculated. Gather, your Windfal Apples from day to day, if the Wether be dry. Make Summer Perry and Cider.   

SEPTEMBER.  
GAther now (if ripe) your Winter-fruit as Plums, Pears, Apples, etc. to prevent their falling by great Winds, also in dry Wether gather Windfalls from day to day. Sow Lettuce, Radish, spinach, Parsnips, Skirrets, Colleflowers, Cabbages, Onions, Scurvygrass, Anniseeds, and Winter Herbs. Now you may Transplant most sort of Esculent and Physical Plants, Artichokes, and Asparagus Roots. Sow Winter Herbs and Roots, and Plant Strawberries out of the Woods: Towards the end Earth up your Winter Plants, and Salad Herbs, and Plant forth your Colleflowers, and Cabbages sown in August. With a pair of Sheers top Currans, and Goosberries, dig about, Manure and Mould up their Roots towards the end. Make Perry and Cider.   

OCTOBER.  
TRench, Dig, and Manure Ground for Orchading, and Kitchin. Garden to lie for a Winter Mellowing. Plant and set Fruit-Trees of all sorts, Standard, Mural, or Shrubs, which lose their Leaf, and that as soon as it falls. Choose no Tree for the Wall above two years Grafting at most. Now is the time for laying bare old unthriving, or overhasty Blooming Trees. The Moon decreasing, gather the remaining Winter-fruit in dry Wether, lay them up clean, lest they taint; Plant and Plash Quicksets. Sow all Stoney and hard Kernels and Seeds, such as Cherry, Pear, Plum, Peach, Almond-stones, etc. Also all sorts of Nuts, Haws, Ashen, Sycamore, and Mapple-keys; Acorns, Beech-mast, Apple, Pear, and Crab-Kernel for Stocks; or you may defer it till towards the later end of the next Month. Keep your Stones and Nuts in Sand till set. Yet sow Lettuce. Make Winter Cider, and Perry. Sow as in September. Sweep and cleanse your Walks of Autumnal fallen Leaves.   

NOVEMBER.  
Carry Compost out of your Melon Ground, or turn and mingle it with the Earth, and lay it in Ridges ready for the Spring; Trench and fit Ground for Artichokes, Mould them up, and cover them in the beginning of Frosts with Horse-dung. Continue setting and Transplanting Trees; lose no time, hard Frosts come on a pace; yet you may lay bare old Trees. Plant young Trees, Standard, or Mural. Furnish your Nursery with all sorts of Stocks to Graft in. Sow and set early Beans, and Peas till Mid- March. Now lay up in your Cellars for Seed to be Transplanted at Spring, Carrots, Parsnips, Cabbages, Colliflowers, etc. In a dry day gather your last Orchard Fruits. Take up your Potatoes for Winter spending, there will enough remain for Stocks, though never so exactly gathered, save the small ones for Sets. Cut off the tops of Asparagus and cover them with long Dung, or make Beds to Plant in Spring. Set yet all sorts of Kernels and Stones to raise Stocks for Nursery. In Frosts Cover the Windows of your Fruit Room, and the Fruits, with Mats of Straw, etc.  
Now order Turnips for Seed thus, viz. about the Tenth get up some of your largest and best Turnips, (20, will yield about a Quart of Seed) but wash them not, then cut off the top of the Bush or Stalk, leaving five or six Inches to grow to the Turnip, lay these about 14 days in a cool Room, then prepare a convenient Plot of Ground by Diging and Trenching good store of rotten Muck, then set Turnips half a yard distant from each other, and Mould up the Earth three Inches high on the Stalk about each; in April, place small Hazel Rails about them to keep them up, and thy'l be Seed in June, if you can preserve them from Birds, which is done by placing a live Catling tied near i● daily fed with Milk, and the old ones resorting to it. If you set not these Turnips till January, the Seed produces a Watery, but larger Turnip. Take up Carrots, Parsnips, etc. to be kept in Cellars in Sand for spending.   

DECEMBER.  
PRune and Nail Wall-fruit and Standard-trees, and Plant Vines, etc. Also Stocks for Grafting. Sow and set all sorts of Kernels, Seeds, and Stones; Trench Ground and Dung it, to be ready for Bordures or Planting of Fruit-trees. Turn and refresh your Autumnal Fruits, lest they taint, and open the Windows where they lie in a clear and serene day. Preserve your Fruit from Frosts.  
Let Planters note that the Wood of the Pear-tree, Plum-tree, Black-cherry-tree, Walnut-tree, and Chesnut-tree, are excellent for Stools, Chairs, Tables, Cabinets, and many other Works for the Joiner, and Sculptor; and though the Wood of some of them be subject to the Worm and putrefaction, that may be both prevented, and cured if not too far gone, by anointing three or four times with Linseed Oil; it has been experimented in a Walnut Table, where it destroyed Millions of Worms immediately, and is to be practtised for Tables, Tubes, Boxes, Mathematical Instruments, Bedsteds, Chairs, Rarities, etc. Oil. of Walnuts will do the same, is sweeter and a better Varnish, but above all is commended Oil of Cedar, or that of Juniper. But the more curious may use this great secret (discovered by Mr. Evelin, Page, 70 of his Sylva) viz. put common Yellow Sulphur into a Cucurbit Glass, upon which pour so much of the strongest Aqua Fortis, as may cover it three fingers deep, distil this to dryness, which is done by two or three Rectifications: Let the Sulphur remaining in the bottom (being of a Blackish or sad Red Colour) be laid on a Marble, or put into a Glass where it will easily dissolve into Oil: With this Anoint either what is infected, or to be preserved of Timber, it tinges Wood with no unpleasant Colour, by no Art to be Washed out, and such a preservation of all manner of Woods, nay of many other things as Ropes, Cables, Fishing-nets, Masts of Ships, etc. That it defends them from putrefaction, either in Waters, under, or above the Earth, in the Snow, Ice, Air, Winter or Summer, etc.    
FINIS.   

ADDENDA.  
1. TO the end of the first Chapter, should have been added the following, viz. And when Stocks are removed out of the Seminary into the Nursery, or elsewhere, be sure to cut off as well the greatest part of the down right Tap, or Heart-root of Stocks; as also the ends of all other Roots, and then to set them as shallow as possible, so as they may be able to take good Rooting.  
2. AT the end of the 6th Sect. in Chap. Second, this should have been added, viz. Be sure therefore to let your Stocks for Pears and Apples be well grown before they are Grafted, that they may be able to make strong, and tall Shoots the first year after Grafted; for if Grafted the same year they are removed, or the next year, not one of many makes a good Tree; besides there are several sorts of Fruit-trees, as Pearmains, Winter-queenings, and July-flower-apples, etc. that will not make a Tree worth your labour, unless Grafted on a lusty plump Stock; because they naturally Shoot weak and crooked; so divers sorts of Pears, of which the Wardens are the worst to make a handsome Tree of.  
3. AT the end of the first Sect. in Chap. seventh, the following should have been added, viz. And indeed all Land proper for Corn, as Wheat, Barley, Rye, Beans, and Piece are proper for Fruit-trees: but the most improper are extreme hot and dry Sands, and on the other side grounds very Wet and cold.  
4. AT the end of the seventh Chap. page 86, the following Sect. should have been added, viz.  
§. 23. After your Trees are transplanted into Orchards, the greatest care and charge is to keep them safe from being abused, either by Weeds that may grow about them, Suckers that may grow out of them, between the Roots, and spreading Boughs, and from all Cattle, Hares, Coneys, and Canker (for which some affirm Hogs-dung either mixed with the Earth, or some laid on the top about the stem to be an excellent remedy) and in case where they are digged or Ploughed about the Roots, your Trees will thrive much better, and grow twice as fast.  
5. IN Page 99, at the end of the tenth Sect. the following should have been added, viz. Observe in setting Fruit-trees to cut off the greatest part of the downright Tap, or Heart-root, and also the ends of all the other Roots of the Tree, and let not the top of the uppermost Roots be above two Inches under the Surface, and the bottom of the Roots not more than nine or ten Inches below the Surface of the Earth; and if the Hole the Tree is to be set in, be digged deep, and filled up again with good Earth before the Tree is Planted (unless the Earth be very well trod down) the Tree and all will sink together, and never prosper: therefore in such a case, ' it's best to set the Tree so shallow as to raise the Earth six or seven Inches above the Roots about the stem, and to cover the uppermost Roots with good Earth, to prevent that misfortune.  
6. AT the end of the third line in Page 163, the following should have been added, viz. You may also obtain many excellent Sets of Currans and Goosberries, if in January, or beginning of February, when the weather is open, you lay down several Limbs and twigs of them, flat and close to the Earth, and so keep them down by a hooked stick driven into the Earth, or a Brick stove; then cover every Limb and Twigg so laid down, all along two Inches thick with good Earth, except the top Branch or Twigg, which must lie, out and be uncovered, and by that time the next year, you'll have abundance of well Rooted Plants, fit to transplant: take care to keep that part of the uncovered Stock, which is between the old Root and the Covered part, that it run not out in Buds or Branches, for if it do, the Twigs will be robbed of that nourishment which should feed them: Also remember to keep them clear of all Grass and Weeds that may in the least annoy them.  
7. AT the end of the 22 Chap. Page 167, the following should have been added, viz. Peaches and Nectarins are Propagated only by Inoculating, and that on Stocks raised either on Peach-stones, or Plum-stones; But observe that Stocks raised of Peach-stones will be sooner ready to Inoculate, and the Buds will take very sure that are Inoculated into them; but they must be carefully and tenderly used in the removal, and must not be expected to make long lasting Trees.  
Stocks from Plum-stones, and Budded with a Peach will make a more firm and lasting Peach-tree; and such as will bear Fruit well.  
Therefore rather raise Stocks for Peaches, Nectarins, Apricocks, and Plums from Stones of the Wheat-plum, which is a White Plum ripe in August, (if you can have them) or in want of them from the Stones of the White Pear-plum, which is generally commended and used, or of other good White Plum whose Tree puts forth large Shoots or Branches.  
The Suckers likewise from the Roots of the said Wheat Plum make excellent Stocks for Peaches, Nectarins, Apricocks, and Dwarf and Wall Plum-trees.  
8. AT the end of the 23 Chap. Page 169, the following should have been added, viz. Strawberries are increased by setting the young Roots, which increase from the strings which run from the elder Plants, they are to be found in Woods and such like Places, from whence many provide themselves as well as in Gardens; they are Planted at divers Seasons, but principally at the Spring and Fall; but many refuse to set them in the Spring, because then there's a Summer's Weeding, and little or no Fruit the first year, so that most Plant about the 24th of August, or Michaelmas, and sometimes later, but something sooner is better; for then they'll have got strength, and bear both more, and fairer Fruit. Set them about half a foot asunder, which is near enough; and if you'll have fair Fruit and your Bed last longer without renewing, or new Planting; often cut away the strings that run from the Roots, otherwise they'll starve one another; also every Winter, not Summer, new mould them, and in dry Wether often Water them, chief in Blooming and Fruit time, but do it throughly; where not carefully looked after, a Bed of Strawberries lasts not above two or three years at most.  
The ordering of great Strawberries differs but little, only to be set at a larger distance, and the Root kept moulded up, and the Stalks for Fruit tied up, and often Watered in dry Wether.  
9 AT the end of the 25th Chap. page 174 the following should have been added, viz. Cherries are propagated by Grafting or Inoculating on Stocks raised from Cherry-stones, set or sowed, or young wild Chery-trees got out of Woods, etc. or Suckers from the common harsh Red Cherry. The wild Stocks make large handsome Standard. Trees, but though Grafted with a good kind, do not bear Fruit so plentifully as the Suckers of the Red being Grafted do, which Suckers are fittest to Graft Cherries on for Wall or Dwarf-trees, being of much smaller growth than those of the wild kind are. No Fruit-trees prosper under the dripping of Walnut-trees, and Cherry-trees. Note that Suckers of Pears, Cherries, and Wheat Plums, make good Stocks to Graft Pears, Cherries, and Plums on, for Wall-trees, or Dwarf-trees.   

ARRATA.  
PAge 39 l. 7. r. displease. P. 43. l. 31. r. Slicing. P. 64. l. 14. r. Bud or Sprig. P. 64. l. 21. deal a Bud. P. 80. l. 16 r. if it be not Springey. P. 83. l. 10. After Walnut Trees, add Chesnut Trees or some large growing Trees. P. 83. l. 25. for old, r. cold. P. 88 l. 21. for Sap, r. Stop. P. 90. l. ult. r. which P. 95. l. 3. r. Sackcloth. P. 97. l. ult. for Clay, r. Clap. P. 102. at the end of 16 Sect. r. Chap. 12. Sect. 10.11.12. P. 118. l. 11. r. bare P. 140. l. 19 r of. P. 144 l. 3. r. one. P. 150. l. 16 r. Tap. P. 159. l. 3. r. fall. P. 176. l. 7. r. Great Musk. and l. ult. for Meet, r. Meat. P. 178. l. 9 for is, r. are. P. 199. l. 1. after Broom, add, when cold. P. 208. l. 25. r. Quantity. P. 216. l. 30. after Quarts, add, in a Barrel or Hogshead. P. 228. l. 14. after Currans, add, Elderberries. P. 235. l. 12. for eightpence, r. eighteen pence. P. 164. instead of these words. viz. about 14 days before Midsummer, r. sometimes in the Month of May.   

THE APPROBATION OF THE Colledge-Royal Of Physicians at ROCHEL.  
WE subsigned, Doctors of Physic of the Colledge-Royal of this Town, and deputed by our Company to Read and Examine a Book Composed by one of our Fellows, which has for Title, Of the use of the Fruits of Trees, do certify that there is nothing thing in it which is not conformable to good Physic.  
In Testimony of which we have subsigned this Approbation, at Rochel the 8th of March. 1683. Censors of the said College. 

Chauvet,  
Arault,     

THE PREFACE.  
THere are Persons who persuade themselves that its a crime to add any thing to Antiquity, and who say, That nothing can be invented of new more than what the Ancients have said; and that it is a vain Glory and Presumption to imagine we can say any thing which has not been written. But if it were free for me to Answer this Opinion, I would say, That Arts are not of those things to which nothing can be added, and that the Older the World grows, the more they are carried on to perfection. Anatomy did not appear in so great a Luster in the Time of Galen, as in our Days: and the Art of Pruning Fruit-trees was not so perfect in the Time of the Curate of Henonville, as at present. We are like a Dwarf on a Giants shoulders. We see much farther than our Fathers, and we daily discover things which they knew not. I will not say for this, that there are not any precepts or Rules found for Pruning Trees in the Books of Agriculture and Gardening which have been Printed within Twenty or Five and Twenty Years, I candidly own that there are some; but in truth they are so few in Number, and the greatest part so obscure, and so little to be relied on, that I very much doubt whether they may be followed without committing faults. If on the contrary you stick to those which I give in this Tract; many Years experience has assured me, that Trees Pruned according to the Rules which I Establish, will produce great Fruits in abundance. I have therefore reduced The Art of Pruning Fruit-Trees into four Chapters; and I have caused seven Figures to be Graved which I Judged necessary for the understanding of what I say: The first Chapter Treats of Pruning Trees in the Month of February. The second explains that of the beginning of May. The third teaches the Pruning at the end of May and the beginning of June. Lastly the Fourth comprises the Pruning of July. I thought fit to reduce this Book into a form of precepts, without forming a continued Discourse; because often we have need of one precept, without having need of another: and I have writ it after so popular a manner that the most Illiterate gardiner's might comprehend what I would say.  
Opus arduum nova Conscribere, Inaudita edocere, Insolentia praeceptis firmare, magis arduum aliquid Antiquitati addere.   

THE Art of Pruning, OR Lopping Fruit-Trees.  

I Suppose that a Tree has been well Planted, and set in a fertile Soil, that the Root of it has been well cut, that good choice has been made of the Plant and of its kind; and that it has some years' Growth, to be able to endure the Pruning-knife.  

CHAP. I. The Pruning or Lopping of Fruit-trees, for the Month of February.  
ALmost all Trees begin to sprout forth in France toward the end of February, or the beginning of March; and this is the motion which we call the rise of the Sap, or the shooting of Trees. This nevertheless happens variously, the disposition of the Air, the goodness of the Soil, the vigour or the kind of the Tree, make the Saps or shootings to come earlier or later: They come early in a dry year, and are backward in a moist.  
This rise of the Sap invites then gardiner's to Prune or Lop Trees in the Month of February, which is the most proper time for this work; and tho' it may be done all the Winter, however the Moon be disposed, Trees being then at rest as to their Branches; nevertheless it is much better to stay for this till the Colds are passed, and that the Rains no longer infest the wounds which are made on Trees; by this means they seal themselves in a little time, and soonner cover the wound which has been made on them.  
Before you Prune or Lop a Tree, you ought to consider the strength and kind of it for rendering it beautiful and fertile; for all Trees are not to be Lopped after the same fashion: We Lop diverly (for instance) a Peachtree and a Winter Pear-Tree; and it's by Lopping of this last, that the skill of the Gardener shows itself the most conspicuously, and that we judge best of his ability.  
There are Trees which we dare not Lop, by reason of the abundance of their Sap; for the more we Lop them, the more Wood they shoot forth, and the less Fruit; even the Flower-buds yield Wood, which happens often to the Tree, which yields the delicate Pear called the little Rousselet; to the lateward Bergamot, to the Virgoleuse, to the St. Lezan, etc. But when these sorts of Trees have shot forth their full, after this they bear but too much. In this occasion Lop sometimes short, and sometimes long, or not at all: take away sometimes the young Wood, and preserve the old; another while cut away the old, for the Tree to grow young again; at another time cut away the Branches, and all the false Sprouts, but remember never to disgarnish the Stock, by Lopping away all the little Branches of the sides of the Tree, and making the Trunk bare.  
Gardiner's have a very true Maxim, Lop in fair Wether, in the decrease of the Moon, and in the end of the Saps, or rather when Trees are at rest.  
The decrease of the Moon of January, which happens in February, is the true time for Lopping Trees, and for preserving Grafts; not but this Rule has some exception; for weak Trees, and those that are Planted but of that year, aught to be Lopped at the new Moon, to make them sprout vigorously: And we must remember that Trees ought not to be cut when we Plant them, but we ought to stay till the Month of February following.  
When you Plant a Graft of three years, which has Flower-buds, preserve some to see the Fruit in the first year: It is of these sorts of Trees that you must always make choice, they show from their beginning an assured fruitfulness, and bear afterward a great deal of Fruit as long as they live.  
Because it is known that an abundance of Sap makes but Branches, and that a little or mean Sap makes Fruit: and moreover that the Moon has less influence on sublunary things, when she gins to be in the Wain, than when she Increases; experience has taught us that the decrease of the Moon is the most kindly time for Lopping Trees, which have then less of motion. The decrease is from the time of the Full to the New, nevertheless some will have it that we may Lop Trees during the time that the Moon is not horned, that is to say, from her eighth day to her one and Twentieth. They say that it is not only the Moon which causes Fruit on Trees, but the disposition of the Branches; and that it suffices that the Moon has strength, provided that on the other side she finds in a Branch, Fibres transverse and disposed to cause Fruit-buds to be there formed. True it is, experience has taught me that the Seeds of Flowers cast into the Earth during all this time, turn double sooner than those that are Sown in another time.  
We ought first to Lop Apricock, Nectarin, and Peach-trees, etc. because they shoot forth the first; the Winter Pear-trees follow next, after these those of Autumn and of Summer, and the Portugal Quince-trees: We ought shortly after to Lop and Prune Plum-trees, and Appletrees, and lastly Spanish Pomegranet-trees, because all these Trees shoot forth the one after the other; but above all, we ought not to Lop this last till it has shot forth a little, that we may the better distinguish the weak or dead Branches.  
After the Observations which we even now made, we ought to begin to Lop and Trim up a Tree by one of its sides from the lower part to the top, and we ought afterward to carry on our Work without confusion, and to take one Branch after the other. This side being thus Lopped and paled, we descend on the other side from the top to the bottom in the same Order.  
We must here remember always to cut the Branches in the form of a Hinds foot, so that the Sun may not dry the wound, which ought to be as far as we may on the North side; but after such a manner that the sloping side of the wound be not too strait downward, to the end that the knot be not endamaged; otherwise the eye which ought to push forth wood, being cut too much by the slope of a too straight descent (chief in tender Trees) will not push forth at all or weakly, and will communicate even to five or six eyes the evil of a wound ill made.  
We must further remember to cut always a Branch near a Wood-bud, and never near a Flower-bud; because in this last Lopping, the Fruit which would come there, would not be secured by the Leaves against the injury of the Air. Moreover the Branch would be exposed to the Air, and finally the wound would not close itself, nor ever come to an Eschar the Pears carrying away all the Sap, that aught to make it:  
We ought not moreover to leave a Stub to a Branch which we cut at a Wood-bud, that we may give way to the Branch to close itself in a short time by the sprout that ought to grow there; I say not the same of a Branch which we cut an Eye or two from the Trunk; this may put forth near the Stub, which we leave there, some Fruit. buds, or some Branches which will have dispositions to produce them, at least if the Branch be little or of a mean size; for if it be great, it ought to be cut near the Tree. If in Lopping where we leave a Stub, nothing shoots forth there, the year following the Stub must be cut smooth to the Tree.  
I speak not here only of Fruit with Kernels, we ought even to leave a Stub to Fruits with Stones, not to make them push forth Wood there, for this is not their Genius, but to keep them from being corrupted by the Wether, and not to cause them to push forth Gum there, which is their Sap, and in this occasion their Capital Enemy.  
When the little Branches are too confused, care must be taken to cut them off an Eye or two from the main Branch, or near the Trunk as I have said, both to disburden the Tree, and to make it push forth some Branches anew, but after such a manner, that there be always room for placing the Sprig which will come.  
We ought also to Observe that to fill out a Tree well, its Branches ought not to be distant from each other above a Finger's breadth.  
You must never cut Fruit-buds whatever reasons are alleged thereon; Trees at that time do what they are ordained for, by displaying their Riches, and Nature gives us what we demand of her for recompense of our cares and Labours.  
We know a Fruit-bud by its Figure, by the small bearer where it comes, by the motion it makes in the shoot of the Tree or finally by the abundance of Leaves that accompany it.  
If a little and long Branch be well stored with Flower-buds, do not cut any of them (I say it once again) and do not so much as touch the Branch, wait rather till the Flowers are come forth of the Bud to destroy them, or till the Fruit are kerned to cut with Scissors the Stems of the least and worst formed; by this means you will not cut away the Bud which will produce other Fruit the following years when the Branch has fortified itself.  
Nevertheless, if for some great reason, we are Obliged to cut Flower-buds in a Branch bared of shoots, for drawing thither the Sap, and to cause some void space to be filled, and that there are no other Branches found for supplying this Default, we must cut the Branch at a Wood-knot to fill out the Tree, and we must take good heed not to cut it near the Flower or Fruit-buds, for the reasons which we have mentioned, and after this we must take away the Fruit-buds to give it more strength to push forth.  
The old Buds which have yielded Fruit for many years together, and which give us no longer hope of producing more, must be cut away to embellish the Tree, and to disburden it of somewhat which is useless and superfluous.  
The bearers which are two, three, or four Inches long are the best, especially when they Issue from the great Branches near the top of the Tree; they bring forth many years one after the other, and bear very great Fruit. Those which are bared of Branches last indeed a long time; but they do not bear so Beautiful Fruit, and often they are drained, unless you cut the Stems of the Pears with Scissors; and those which are not above a nail in length, and which come from the Trunk, bring forth very great Fruit; but ordinarily they last but a year  
A Shoot of August never yields Fruit, the Wood is not then well filled with Sap, it ought always to be cut away, unless it be extremely necessary for filling a void space.  
If a useless or irregular Branch grows behind, it is always cut away, even tho' it has on it a Flower-bud; for the Fruit which would come of it, would be spoiled by the shadow of the Tree, and would be good for nothing: if it be before, we cut it an Eye or two from the Mother Branch, to try to make some Flower-buds spring forth there.  
A Branch bend by force bears much Fruit, but it is small, unless it were plied so the first year; the reason is evident, its Fibres are bend, and the Sap does not carry itself briskly to it.  
Sometimes forked sprouts, or knots of Scions shoot forth from certain places of Trees, when they are Old and at a stand that they need to be cut to renew them. In this occasion we ought to cut at a good length a Master Sprig in Pear-trees and Appletrees, and to cut some an Eye or two from the Mother Branch, and cut others near the Trunk, but in Nectarin and Peach-trees, we ought to cut all the lesser Branches an Eye or two from the Mother Branch, and let the longest and straightest run on, tho' it would be the shortest way in these last Trees, to cut a great Branch near the Trunk, or to cut the Trees two or three Finger's breadth from the Earth to renew them.  
You must cut one Branch short betwixt two long to fill out the Tree. The year following the short Branch must be cut long, and the long short: It is the secret to have much Fruit, and to preserve Trees; there are some who say that a Tree Lopped after that manner is not agreeable to behold: but I desire them to stay to consider them till the Month of May; and I am well assured they will change their sentiment.  
A Tree is ordinarily composed of three sorts of Branches, we find on it Ravenous or Prodigal, Indifferent, and Fertile.  
1. The Ravenous grow most commonly at the top of the Tree, and sometimes they spring from an Old Branch; they are finely even and without Moss, greater and more smooth than the others.  
2. The Indifferent are of a mean sort, among which there are sometimes some well supplied with Juice, they bearing sometimes Fruit within three or four years.  
3. The Fertile are ordinarily small, and growing athwart; sometimes there are found of them great and long; they always bear Fruit; there are counted five sorts of them.  
1. The first have in their source, and in the place whence they spring, little Wrinkles like Rings; which show that in this place there are transverse Fibres in the Wood It's in these Fibres where is made a slow circulation of the Sap of the Tree, which produces the Flower-bud, whereas when the Fibres are all straight, the Sap is carried upward vigorously and without resistance, and not staying itself in any place, it produces nought but Wood: We may Observe these transverse Fibres in cutting the Wood where there are of these Rings, the cut will not be close and even as elsewhere.  
The Figure following will Represent to you the Fertile Branch.  
Fig. 1   depiction of branch 
A. The Wrinkles and Rings of a Branch of a Bon-Chrêtien Pear-tree.  
2. The Second Fertile sprouts have no Rings in their Origine, where they Issue from their Mother Branch; but they have in the middle, that is to say, when an Indifferent Branch, having not been cut in February, shoots forth Wood in May, and forms Wrinkles at the beginning of its shoot; or when a Branch in its middle forms Rings betwixt the end of its shoot of May, and the beginning of that of June, which may be known easily, if a Man will make the experiment; for in cutting the wood in this place, as I even now mentioned, the cut will not appear smooth as elsewhere, but uneven by the transverse Fibres that are there.  
The following Figure Represents the Second Fertile Branch in a Bon-Chrêtien.  
Fig. 2   depiction of branch 
A. Rings, and Wrinkles at the beginning of the Shoot of May, or betwixt the end of the Shoot of May, and the beginning of that of June.  
3. The third kind of Fertile Branches Issues from a Flower-Bud, which has failed to blow sometimes for outward causes, and often through the abundance of the Sap of the Tree: They Issue also from a Bud which has yielded Pears; they are called Fertile, because they come of a Flower or Fruit-bud which experience discovers to us to have transverse Fibres.  
The third Figure shows it us in a little Branch with Flower and Fruit-buds of a Bon-Chrêtien.  
Fig. 3   depiction of branch 
A. The Bud which has yielded Pears, or has failed to blow.  
B. The Fertile Branch which we must let grow on.  
C. The lesser Branch which we must cut away.  
D. Where it ought to be cut at two knots:  
E. The Bearer.  
4. The Fourth kind of Fertile Branches are those which the year before were Indifferent, and which are become Fertile through the little Sap that is come to them, and by the Buds which are grown to a fullness.  
5. Finally, the Fifth are those which have a Flower-bud at the end of the Branch.  
1. Of these three sorts of Branches, that is to say, of the Prodigal, Indifferent, and Fertile, the Prodigal are always cut very short at the first or second knot, to make the Sap pass to another side of the Tree, and produce there Branches Indifferent or Fertile. This Lopping reiterated many times, makes the Prodigal Dye, or at leastwise hinders the Tree from pushing them so vigorously. It's by reason of this experiment that we ought not to cut Trees much, because by cutting them in all their Branches, they are made to Languish and afterwards to Die. The Prodigals which have been cut many times the precedent year, aught to be Lopped at the first knot near the Mother Branch whence it grows, as the Fourth Figure shows.  
Fig: 4   depiction of branch 
A. A Prodigal cut in February at the Second knot.  
B. A Prodigal cut in June at the Second knot.  
C. A Shoot of the Prodigal in July which has not been cut, because it has shot very little.  
D. Where we must cut a Prodigal in February, of the following year at the first knot.  
Lop therefore the top of the Tree, where the Prodigal Branches are Ordinarily found, and spread it at the bottom and at the sides; this Lopping gracefully fills a Tree, and hinders it from Growing to too great a height and from destroying itself in a short time.  
2. As for the Indifferent Branches, some of them ought to be Lopped, others not; that is to say, we ought in the Month of February to let those grow on which have Buds for Wood very near each other, and which issue from a good place, as also those which have two great Leaf-buds which touch each other at the end of the Branch; to the end we may know their Genius at the Lopping of June. The greatest and best supplied with Juice will be the best for keeping. The Indifferent which we ought to cut at the third or fourth knot, are those which are least disposed to bear Fruit, and which have the Leaf-buds far from one another.  
3. The Fertile ought never to be Lopped, tho' they are as long as the Arm; Trees left to run up from which we Lop no Branches and which bear so much Fruit, show us well that we ought never to Lop the Fertile: nevertheless, if there be need of them for filling up a void space where it happens, and that no other Branch can be found for this purpose, I permit them to be cut for embellishing the Tree.  
And to explain myself farther in speaking concerning a Fertile Branch, I say that that which has Rings in its source, Wrinkles at the beginning of its shoot of May or of June, or finally knots near each other, ought not to be cut without a great necessity; for experience has taught me that all these Branches bear Infallibly their Fruit toward the end of their Branches, which our ill gardiner's always cut away, So at the beginning of February Observe exactly the end of the shoots of the precedent year, that you may always cut the Branch when the Saps are at a stand at the first or second knot in the Wood which comes after, and to leave all the knots which will be as many Flower-buds, that will not fail to form themselves there in two or three years. It's an Observation which will embellish your Trees by the abundance of Fruits which they will produce. That which I say being somewhat difficult to comprehend without seeing it, the fifth Figure will make you understand it.  
Fig: 5   depiction of branch 
A. The Lop of February in an Indifferent Branch.  
From B. to C. three Branches of the shoot of May.  
D. The Lop of June in Indifferents.  
From D. to E. The shoot of June.  
From E. to F. The shoot of August, the Wood of which is very full of Sap.  
G. Where we must Lop in February, of the following year when the Saps are at rest.  
H. Where in two years' Fruit-buds will be formed in a Branch which from indifferent is become Fertile.  
The Fertile Branches which Issue from a Bud which has yielded Fruit, and which have not been cut at the beginning of May, ought not to be cut in February, unless they are double. In this occasion we must let run the better, and Lop the other at the first or second knot. Experience has taught me that these Branches never fail of bearing Fruit the second or third year. See the third Figure.  
Finally, the same Experience has taught me that the Fruit-buds which come at the end of the Branches in Trees whose Genius is often to bear their Fruit in this place, ought not to be cut, especially if they produce little, and we should have but few Gracioli, Coins Francs, nor Grenades d'Espagne, if we should cut these sorts of Trees at the end of their Branches.  
It is said that the Fruits which come at ends of Branches are small, and that the Wind blows them down. I own that the first default is without remedy, but the Second is not so, for we may bind up the Branch laden with Fruit against the Wind. Nature doing well what she does, when she places a Fruit-bud at the end of a Branch of a Pear-tree, has an intent to render this Branch Fertile; for the Fruit which she produces there, seals that Branch, and hinders it from pushing forth afterward; this Branch receiving not then much Sap, forms in all its length an Infinite number of Fruit-buds, and two or three years after it is all decked with them; which it continues to do for five or six years following, till the Branch is worn out; if this Flower-bud be cut away the Sap will come freely and vigorously into the Branch cut, and instead of the Fruit which Nature had there designed, we shall have nought but Wood through the Gardiner's Ignorance.  
When we will have large Fruit, especially in the Bon-Chretien and in other Trees, which bear great, we ought to Lop short, the nearer the Fruit-buds are to the Trunk, the greater the Fruit is, for it receives more of the Juice.  
There are Gardiner's who make the Bush of a Tree too thin by cutting away the little Branches, and leaving the Trunk almost bare: we might leave in it some clear space in the middle and the sides, to give entrance to the Sun which must colour the Pears, but we ought not to cut it too much: the shadow of the Leaves ought to secure the Trunk of the Tree against the parching heat of the Sun which makes it chop, and which breeds the Scab and the Canker by the dryness of its Bark. Tree it is that we ought to cut shorter Trees with a round Bush head than Espaliers, and that we ought not to let them run up too much: In a strong and moist Soil we must keep a Bush head thinner of Branches than in another Soil, which is poor and dry; but in all places we ought to keep it well filled, and not cut away the Branches in the midst of it as much as is done at this day.  
The nicest Trees do not delight in this Figure, Pear-trees do not much take to it, and Apricock-trees less. Trees Grafted on the great Quince-tree, are more proper for it than those which are Grafted on a Pear-tree, these later cannot be reduced, the more you cut them the more they shoot of Wood; and besides with this, they do not bring forth much Fruit, their nature being to be always high.  
Cherry-trees which bear sharp Cherries, grow very well with a Bush head, provided that they are Grafted on the small bitter Cherrytree; and they take to it better yet if they are permitted to grow up, for they do not much delight in the Pruning-knife, and less when they are old.  
The Plum-tree is of the same nature with the Cherrytree; it is ordered also after the same manner.  
We ought rather to cut a Branch away, than to cut it in many places; the divers wounds which we give Trees, decay them, and make them die languishing, witness the Prodigal, which we kill by often cutting.  
Experience has taught me for many years following, that Fruit with stones (that is to say the Apricock-tree, the Nectarin, and the Peach-tree) ought not to be Lopped as Pear-trees.  
We ought only to cut away Branches, and sometimes the greatest to make them renew themselves: and contrary to the custom of other Trees, they bear in young shoots which lad themselves with Fruit the first year. It's after this manner that they last Twenty or Thirty years; the more therefore that a Peach-tree shoots forth, the more Fruit it bears.  
We never ought in these Sorts of Trees to cut a Branch in the middle, tho' the Apricock-tree is not so much damnified by it as the others; because they have a large Pith very susceptible of the injuries of the Air. The wound often causes five or six knots to die in a Branch, which has been cut after that manner, and by taking off with the Pruning-knife the end of the Branch, as is ordinarily done, we carry away at the same time the Fruit that ought to form itself there, and we leave but an end of a Branch which brings nought but Wood  
I say it once again; the Fruit comes but at the end of the shoot of the two first Saps; if we Lop away this end, we carry away the Fruit, and we blockishly deprive ourselves of that which we seek with so much passion. It's a remark which we ought well to Observe, for the Sap having spent and as it were wearied itself after having past all along a Branch, does not exert itself with so much vigour, and its motion is not so impetuous, nor so nimble at the end of a Branch as in the beginning of it; also it employs itself rather to form Buds for Flowers when it acts mildly, than when it agitates itself with so much precipitation.  
Because Fruit with Stones shoot more briskly and more in confusion than Pear-trees, we must also take good heed to Lop them with discretion. These Trees having shot forth vigorously a Branch during one year, and having produced Fruit there, lose their force in this same Branch the year following, and shoot forth nought but Scions here and there, but which are laden with an infinite number of Fruit; and the greatest part of these same Scions die the year following as well as all the annual buds of the Tree. When a great Branch is old we ought to cut it in its Source, as you may see in the Figure following.  
Fig: 6   depiction of branch 
A. Wood worn out of three or four years.  
B. The place where it ought to be cut.  
C. Young Wood of the year which ought not to be cut in the middle.  
D. Flower or Fruit-buds of the precedent year, which are dry.  
The Nectarine and the Peach-tree, being of the nature of those Trees which shoot much in their tops, we must not hope to be able to subdue them as Pear-trees, and force them to fill themselves well in the lower part: if we Lop them as these Trees, that is to say, if we Lop their Branches in the middle we hinder them indeed from shooting in their tops, but they do not fill themselves for this in their lower part; they mount always, and by cutting them after that manner, no Fruit comes of it, and we kill them in a short time.  
In general, the Plum-tree and the Cherrytree delight more in Lopping than the Appletree: but all three of them do not delight in it as much as the Pear-tree, which is the only Tree that endures it best. We must take nought from these three first Trees but the dead Wood, unless we will form them at first for Bush-trees or Espaliers.  
Because the Corand-tree has much Pith, and that it comes easily of a slip, its nature does not endure it to be Lopped in the middle of its Branches, no more than the Peach-tree; above all we must take good care of cutting it, when we set it. We ought in an old Corand-tree to cut near the Root a Branch past bearing, in order to renew it, and to cut also from the lower part some young shoots of the year to hinder it from being too much confused. The young shoots which we preserve, serve to renew it when we cut it in its old Wood Nevertheless, tho' it does not delight in being Lopped, we make Bushes of it, and form it in an Espalier, which is beautiful to behold, at the time that it is laden with Fruit.  
I say the same of the Mulberry-tree, and of the Figtree, which cannot endure the knife by reason of the abundance of their Pith; the last especially is visibly damnified by it, unless we Lop from them great useless Branches, for rendering them regular: and neither of them can be made to grow low, they love too much the free and open Air.  
Medlar-trees and Service-trees naturally grow high, the former endure the knife much more than the latter.  
The Portugal Quince-trees, and the Pomegranate-trees of Spain will not be Lopped, because they bear their Fruit at the end of their Branches. Nevertheless we may take from them entire Branches, which cause a confusion, and which are old; and cut near the Trunk the useless Prodigals, which are usual enough in these sorts of Trees. As for the other Prodigals which embellish the Tree, and which in four or five years will yield Fruit, we ought not to Lop them.  
Care must be taken to cover the great Wounds of Trees with a Plaster made of a pound of Drogue a flambeau, four Ounces of Rosine, and two Ounces of Sheep's Suet. When we walk in our Garden in a fine day of the Month of April, we must have in our hand a Magdaleon of the Plaster even now mentioned, we must cut a little of it with a knife, and after having wrought it betwixt the moistened Fingers, for rendering it a little soft, we must apply it on the great Wounds, which we had forgot to seal in the Month of March. And to the end that this Plaster may keep the longer on the Wounds, we must put on it a bit of paper as a binder, which we must press on softly with the Finger, to the end that the heat of the Summer making the Plaster melt, the paper may press it, stay it, and glue it more to the Wood: it is what we ought to do in the two other Loppings following.   

CHAP. II. The Lopping of Fruit-trees, at the beginning of the Month of May.  
PRoperly speaking, it is not a Lopping that is done to Trees at this time; they are as yet in the motion of their Sap. We cut but Scions, which tho' Fertile of themselves, bring in the mean time a great prejudice to the Fruit; at the beginning of May we must therefore take a particular care to cut away the useless Branches which grow by the Buds for Fruit, and especially in Pear-trees; that is to say, to cut away at the second knot a little Scion which comes among the clusters of Pears: to delay this is not good, the Sap which ought to Communicate itself to the Fruit, is carried into the shoot, which draws a part of the humour of the Fruit-bud, where the Pears are fastened, which causes either that their Stem dries for want of Sap, or that they come very small.  
You may see what I mean in the following Figure.  
Fig. 7   depiction of branch 
A. A shoot which comes on the Fruit-bud through the abundance of the Sap.  
B. The place where you must cut it.   

CHAP. III. The Lopping of Fruit-trees at the beginning of June.  
IN the Decrease of the Moon of May, which happens often in June, you must Lop Trees for the second time; but with more moderation than in February: for we ought never in June to cut great Branches, and properly speaking, it is but a relopping of Trees.  
We must wait above all till the Sap be ended, according to the Maxim which we have alleged before, and it will be good to repeat it here: Lop in Fair weather, in the Decrease of the Moon, at the end of the Saps; or rather when Trees are at rest.  
The rest of a Tree is known by a bud Garnished ordinarily with two Leaves, which forms itself at the end of the Branches, and we observe chief this bud at the end of May, or at the beginning of June, that is to say, after the first Sap or shooting.  
The second Sap or shooting of Trees gins ordinarily in the middle of June, and ends a Month after, towards Magdalen-tide, so that betwixt the end of the first Sap, and the beginning of the second there is about a Month: and it's at this time that we must cut Trees again.  
The effect of this re-cutting is to make the Buds of the first Sap to fill up, to force Trees to make Fertile Branches, or to form Flower-buds for the following year; whereas the Lop of February, furnishes but Wood to yield Fruit three years after, if we except the Orange, the Bergamot, the Double-flower, the Summer Bon-Chretien, and some others.  
You ought here to call to mind that we have distinguished the Branches of Trees Into Prodigals, Indifferent and Fertile.  
There are few Trees Grafted on cultivated Trees, and on Trees come of Kernels, which do not yield some Prodigal in the first Sap, and which do not continue even to yield of them in the others. Care must be taken therefore to cut them at the second Leaf-bud, and thus to correct the shoot which transports itself, and which draw a great part of the Sap of the Tree. O● this matter you may see the fourth Figure  
As for Trees Grafted on the great Quince trees, they have not often of these sorts o● Prodigal shoots: and some Gardiner's are even of the mind that they ought not to be Lopped at this time, and that the tops of them ought only to be pinched off with the Nails.  
We must not deal with the Indifferent Branches as with the Prodigal: for we ought to keep the best without touching them, and observe exactly those which we permitted to run on in the Month of February. If these have good marks for proving Fertile, we must cut nothing there; but if they have not, they must be cut short enough to make them yield some; that is to say, they must be cut at the fifth or sixth knot for Leaves: As for the other Indifferents, we ought to cut them at half a foot, or even a feet length, for rendering them Fertile the year following. The Indifferents which we must not cut, have particular marks which we have observed in the first Chapter.  
We ought not to touch the Fertile Branches for the reasons mentioned elsewhere, unless it be sometimes those which Issue from a Flower-bud which has failed.  
Before I pass farther, it will be proper for me to explain myself on what I pretend to say by a Flower-bud which has failed; and you must give me leave to make two sorts of Flower-buds. One sort is certain and never shoots forth Wood: they are these which will yield Fruit in a short time. The others shoot forth Wood when the Sap abounds too much, or when we cut a Tree too short, and that by this means we draw the Sap too much toward these sorts of Buds. They are these Buds which will not blow under two or three years. Their Origine, their situation, and their-Figure make them easily distinguishable to a Gardener which has experience and a good sense. This being thus established, I may say that a Scion which shoots in a Fruit-bud which has failed, is situated in a good place for being called Fertile as I have said it elsewhere; and that if the Sap of the Tree had not been so abundant, to make this Bud shoot which yielded the Scion, doubtless this Bud would have become the year following a Flower-bud; besides the Fibres of the Bud being transverse, cause the Sap to circulate more slowly, and during all this time the Sun concocts and digests the humour to form there Fruit-buds for Fruit.  
I thought good to allege all this, to show the error wherein some are, who will have us always to cut this Scion, even when the Fruit has failed, and for this they call it a false and an ill shoot. But experience has taught me that it has marks of Fertileness, and that two years, or at farthest three years' afterward, if it were not cut away, it would furnish itself with Flower-buds; and would bear during six or seven years an infinite number of Fruit.  
If therefore the Flower-bud which is on a little bearer, that has failed, which would yield Fruit the next year or two years after, shoots Wood; it ought to be cut short in June, to make it form there Fruit-buds, which happens sometimes otherwise through the abundance of the Sap; for a Scion or two form themselves there as may be seen in the third Figure.  
Nevertheless, there are some who will not have us to cut this Scion in June; they preserve it for the Fruit, and cut it long in the Month of February following, or do not Lop them at all; and if there are two, they let the best grow, and cut the other an Eye or two from the Mother-Branch.  
But however, I think we must here distinguish two sorts of Scions which come in a Flower-bud which has failed. There are bearers and vigorous Buds, which shoot forth two or three Scions, whereof some are long and slender, others short and slender, and others again short and thick: We must not touch these last; because most commonly a Flower-bud forms itself there, and we must not always cut the others an Eye or two from the Mother-Branch: If some disposition for a Flower-bud forms itself near the Scion, cut within an Eye or two of the Mother-Branch, we must accept of it from the liberal hand of Nature; if none be formed there, and that another Scion grows there, they must be left for the Months of July or February following. If the Bud which produces the Scion, be weak, we must not touch it, but we must preserve the Scion for the Fruit, at least if it appears well furnished with Sap in August; for if we cut it, it will be at a stand and will not shoot.  
We must cut larger in June than in February; because it is at that time that we give the Figure to the Tree for the year following, and that we cause Fruit-buds to be formed for two years after.  
If Grafts within a cloven made in the top of a Stock; are vigorous the year that they are Grafted, it is better (as some think) to pinch the ends of them away with the Nails at the beginning of June, than to cut them. But experience has taught me that if we design a Graft which shoots vigorously either for a Bush head or for an Espalier, we ought to cut it at the New of the Moon, three or four Months after it is Grafted, to make it spread below, and to secure it from the Wind: We gain a year by so doing.  
As for Trees which we design to let run up to a height it will be good not to cut them at all till the second year.  
We must not touch the first year a Bud Grafted, be it never so vigorous; we must wait the year following to cut the Stump of the Tree come of Seed, mean while care must be taken to stay it up against the Wind.  
I repeat it once again here, that we ought never to cut Flower-buds, because we take away the Buds which bring a great deal of Fruit during six or seven years following. When the little Branches, where the Buds are fixed, are fortified by the hardness of the Tree, it is then that we must no longer cut off with Sheers, neither Flowers nor Pears.  
There are some who say, that we ought to cut Apricock, Nectarin and Peach-trees, four or five times a year, to wit, in February, in May, in June, and in July: but Experience has taught me, as well as Father Feüillant, who has writ of Fruit-trees, that these sorts of Trees do not much love the knife; otherwise, they do not last long, and we destroy them in the end, by much cutting them: We are obliged in this Month to nale them up, and to cut at the same time the Branches which cannot be applied to the Espalier. Some preserve them to be cut in the Month of February, according to the Maxim that these sorts of Trees, being very nice, do not love to be cut, or rather, they pull away with the Finger the Branches, as fast as they come against order, and in an Irregular place.  
After the first Lopping of February, I am not of opinion that we ought to cut any thing from Appletrees, or Plum-trees, or Cherry-trees, or Goosberry-trees, or Portugal Quince-trees, or Spanish Pomegranate-trees, unless we take from these two last Trees some Prodigals, which ordinaly grow there, and which do not fill, nor embellish the Tree.  
Tho' I resolved to speak here but of Lopping Trees, nevertheless it may be allowed me to say somewhat curious concerning their watering, which contributes much to the abundance and greatness of their Fruit.  
It will be proper in the Evening at Sun set, during the great heats of the Summer to sprinkle with Water sometimes the Branches and the Fruit of Trees with a Dutch Pump. The Tree will be greener, and the Fruit better supplied with nourishment: it is far better to do so than to Water them at the Root; for this last watering renders Peats unsavoury, and of an ill taste, whereas the first, answering to an Evening Rain, or the due of the Night, keeps the Tree supplied with nourishment, which afterwards gives its Fruit the Juice, which is meat for them, for rendering them good and delicious.  
For this we ought to Observe that the Water which we will make use of, aught to be drawn in the Morning, and to have been a little exposed to the Sun, so that it should not be cold in the Evening when we would use it: Moreover that the Pump has three or four little holes, that it may make the Water which issues from it to divide itself into a Thousand little drops. Finally, that we ought to place ourselves at fifteen or twenty Foot from the Tree which we will Water.   

CHAP. IU. The Lopping of Fruit-trees at the end of July.  
WE said in the foregoing Chapter, that the second Sap or shoot began in the middle of June, and ended at the end of July; and we say at present, that the third manifests itself in the Month of August, and sometimes in the Month of September according to the disposition of the Air, and the difference of the seasons: so that it is at the end of the second Sap that we ought to meddle with Trees; for in the Month of August we must take good heed not to cut any thing there, and if we cut then any Branch, the Wound does not cicatrize itself all the year, the heat dries it, and the approaching Winter incommodes it with the excess of its Rains and colds.  
This Lopping is not performed but to cause the Branches to be fortified, to make the Flower-buds to fill themselves, and to cause the Fruit to be nourished the more.  
If we ought to be scrupulous in the Month of June to Lop Trees, we ought to be so for a much greater reason this Month, for at present we must but pinch away with the nails the ends of, or cut a little some Branches.  
We must choose then in July a fine day and the decrease of the Moon to visit the Trees: and we must call to mind the division which we have made of the Branches of Trees.  
We must Lop again at the second knot the Prodigals a third time, if they have shot vigorously, that we may wound so often the Branch which receives much of Sap, that its divers Wounds may weaken it, and divert by this means the Sap to other places, that it may be divided into many Branches. These Prodigals come not much but in Trees Grafted on the Pear-tree; and Planted in a good Soil, as I have said: and so we must not seek for them elsewhere, for those which are Grafted on the great Quince-tree do not shoot much: and in this Month we ought to cut nothing in these last sorts of Trees.  
In this Month we must not touch the Indifferent Branches, which we judged to be so in the Months of February and of June, we must stay till the Month of February following to Lop them, if they ought to be Lopped.  
Neither must we touch of those which are Fertile: but concerning those which issue from a Flower-bud which has failed, there are differing sentiments. The shoot which issues from this Bud having been cut at the second knot in the Month of June, shoots sometimes at the second Sap, and yields one or two Scions. Some will have it that we should cut these also at the second knot: because they pretend that Nature ought to form there some disposition to make Buds. Others Lop at the second Eye the least, and preserve the fairest and best fed and knotted, to see in February following if it will show its Genius, and at that time they leave it all entire, because it comes from a Fertile place, or cut it very long. They have observed by experience that three years afterwards it brings a great many Buds, whence issue an infinite number of Fruit.  
If in this Month there are found some useless Branches besides, they must be cut an Eye or two from the Mother-Branch, to make them shoot forth somewhat that is good.  
There come often on Peach and Nectarin-trees, and sometimes on Pear-trees a cluster of Branches, which happens often to Trees grown old, and fit to be cut for renewing themselves. We must do at this time as we did in the February before: that is to say, we must make choice of the Master Sprig to preserve it, and cut away the others. Nevertheless there are some who stay till the Month of February ensuing to do this, because that in July the heat penetrates to the quick into the Wounds of nice Trees; and besides that which Trees shoot after this season ought not to be preserved. They cut therefore Trees at this time the least they can, relying doubtless on experience which has obliged them so to do.  
Toward Magdelan-tide, in the Decrease of the Moon, which happens in the Month of July, we must nail up again Peach-trees, Nectarin-trees, etc. and we must cut all the Branches which are not flexible, and which are grown contrary to Order, tho' with this diligence, that we must cover as soon as may be with a Plaster, and paper the Wounds which have been there made.  
Those who are for the lasting of these Trees, pale them up at this time, but they stay to cut them till the Month of February; these sorts of Trees (according to their sentiment) being so nice, that they cannot endure the Summer, the great heat penetrating into their Wounds, causes five or six Eyes to die. Which we perceive dried the year following: this is the way (say they) to make them last forty years, as experience shows it. They chose much rather (as I have said) to pull away with the Finger, as they walk, the Branches which come contrary to order, than to cut them, and if there are found some which ought to be cut, they keep them for the Month of February following. Nevertheless, if they are too much confused, and that their shadow hinders the Sun from heating the Fruit, we shall be obliged to cut them away.  
The abundance of Pears being ordinarily the Enemy of Espaliers, and making the Trees often die, we must cut with Sheers the middle of the stalk of the Pears, to disburden the Trees. This aught to be done when the Fruit is a quarter or a third part as big as it ought. This Rule is only for great Winter-Fruit, and chief for the Bon-Chretien: we must observe also not to leave above one or two Pears on a weak Branch, a strong one being able to bear more.  
It's also in this Month that Fruit enter into Juice, and begin to take a colour through the light of the Sun: but because often there are Leaves, which hinder the rays from touching the Fruit, care must be taken in July to take away some from before them, and in the Month of August following we must cut away the rest with Sheers, so managing the Light by reason of the burning heat of the Sun.  
End of the First Tract.   

An Explanation of some words which gardiner's make use of to express themselves in speaking of Fruit-Trees.  
CAnker, or Scab is often caused by the heat of the Sun, or through the taint of the Tree which is in an ill Soil,  
Espalier, is an edge row of Fruit-trees set close together, their Boughs interlaced one within another, and held with Stakes, Rails, or Pales.  
False Shoots, are little useless Branches, or Sprouts of the shoot of August, turning yellowish, and ill supplied with Juice.  
Franc, is said of Fruit, when they are cultivated and domestic, or of a Tree Grafted, or lastly of a young Tree come of a Kernel, Sown, which has no thorns, and which has large Leaves, for there are excellent Fruit which come of Seed so Sown. We say to Graft a Franc on a Franc, Coin Franc.  
Fertile, Fertile shoots are the Branches which always bear Fruit.  
Indifferents, are Sprouts which sometimes yield Fruit within three or four years. A knot is the place where a Tree shoots forth Wood  
Prodigal or Ravenous, are great and smooth shoots, which draw the Sap of the Tree, and which bring not Fruit in a long time; they dissipate all the substance of their Mother.  
Sap, is taken for the humour which rises betwixt the Wood and the great Bark, by the little Bark which is betwixt both, it answers to the Blood of Animals: It is Rosin in the Pinetree, Turpentine in the Larch-tree, Gum in the Apricock and Cherry-trees, Milk in the Figtree, Water in the Vine and in the Pear-tree.  
Scion, is a little Fertile Branch.  
Void spaces, when there are no Branches to fill out the Espalier.  
Worms called Tigers, Lutins, Diablotins, are those Worms which come in the Month of August and gnaw the Leaves of Trees; they have the Head great and black; the vapour of Quick Lime, or the decoction of Wormwood kills them.    

The Second PART.  
Of the use of the Fruits of Trees, for preserving us in Health, or for Curing us when we are Sick.  
IT is not enough for us to have Writ concerning the Lopping of Trees, to have Fruit in abundance, we must also teach the way and the time of eating them without being offended thereby.  
If our Stomach were as good as that of our Forefathers, it would be useless for us to Write on this matter; but because it is weakened by the pleasures which men of late have taken in their way of living, there seems and Obligation upon us to give precepts concerning the use of Fruits, either for preserving us in Health, or for destroying our Diseases when we are afflicted with them.  
There is nothing so useful in Physic, as to know the qualities of things which we make use of in Life, either for avoiding those which offend us, or for taking those which do us good: it is what has obliged Learned men to deliver their sentiments concerning all that we eat, they making use always of Reason and experience, which we shall also follow in this Tract of The use of Fruits of Trees: for it is only of those whereof we design to speak.  
We shall make therefore three different Chapters: We shall show in the First the time and the way of using those Fruits which are easily corrupted, as Figgs, Nectarins, Peaches, Plums, Apricocks, Mulberries, and Cherries, which we ought always to eat fasting, on an empty Stomach, and before Meals.  
The second shall Treat of those which are not easily corrupted, and which we ought to eat the last thing after Meals, as Pears, Apples, Portugal Quinces, Medlars, and Services.  
Lastly, the third shall explain how we may eat before or after Meals Raisins, Portugal and China Oranges, Spanish Pomegranates, and Corands. But before I enter upon this matter, I think fit to lay down some general Maxims, without which we cannot know the good use which we ought to make of Fruits.  
We ought then in the first place to observe all the qualities of the Fruits before mentioned, that we may use the one and the others at divers times, according to the precepts which we shall give in the Sequel.  
We find of Sweet, of sugared, of Ambered, of Musked, of Vinous, of Aqueous or Insipid, of Sharp, of Acerb, and of Austere, and to speak in a few words, there are of sweet, sharp, and austere.  
There are found moreover of Red, of Yellow, of Green, of Tawny, of Violet, of White and of Black.  
Again there are of Cassans or harsh, of Burez, of Fondans or melting and tender; finally we find such as pass quickly through the Bowels of those that eat them, and these are the Fruits which are easily corrupted: there are others which stay a long time in the Stomach, and they are those which are corrupted with difficulty.  
All the Fruits whereof we design to speak in particular, cool and moisten much, because they are but Water gathered together, and passed through the Trunk of the Tree, which produces them; but nevertheless with this difference, that there are some colder and moister than others.  
Fruit that have a quality which is sweet, and pleasant to the taste, are less cold than others: thus, tho' Figgs, Raisins, the Bon-Chrêtien, the Spanish Renet, and other Fruit of the like nature, moisten much, they have nevertheless but a coldness, which does not pass the bounds of the first degree, it's for this reason that they dulcify much, and that they nourish a little more than the others, their matter having more affinity with our parts. But if with their natural sweetness they have an odour of Amber or of Musk, than they have I know not what subtle and penetrating parts, which exhilerate our Heart and Brain, and which make us digest them better than others.  
Sharp Fruit cool more than sweet: but they do not moisten so much, they powerfully penetrate and attenuate the thick and earthy matters, so that afterward they are no longer capable of doing us hurt. They qualify our heated Bowels; they destroy the Flame there, which often all the remedies of Physic have not been able to quench during many Months: they cool our Liver, remove all the Obstructions of our Bowels, and give our Blood a more free motion: finally they appease fluxions, if we apply them outwardly, and they stay a Flux of Blood from whatever part it comes.  
Fruits which are austere and acerb, and which differ but in more or less, restringe the Tongue and the Palate when we eat them: it seems that they stop the Orifices of the threads that terminate there, by the blunted and obtuse particles of their matter.  
I do not pretend to speak here of Fruit which are not Ripe, that have all these qualities. I banish them entirely from this Book as very pernicious to the Life of Man; but I speak only of those, which being in a perfect maturity, retain somewhat of austere, acerb, or astringent, as the Rake Pear, the great Dégue, the Quince, and other Fruits of the like Nature. All these Fruits are also more cold than the sweet and the Amb'red, but they do not moisten so much: and because their savour is in a more Earthy matter, even in this respect they do not penetrate so much as the Sharp. They restring however the Stomach and the Bowels, and withstand a Looseness and a Dissentery, and being applied outwardly they hinder Vomiting, retard growing Inflammations, and easily cicatrize the Skin, which has been opened by a considerable Wound.  
After all, a Fruit which has been brought to perfection by the heat of the Sun, and which has not been shadowed by the Leaves of its Tree, will be always of better taste than another. A red Apple or Pear, and a yellow Raisin will always be better than others; because their Juice will be better digested, and their useless moisture will be easily evaporated by the heat of the Sun.  
You must observe in the second place, that I give not here precepts concerning the use of Fruits, for sound and robust Persons, on whom Fruits make no Impression; Let such eat of them at all times, and as much as they please, without distinguishing their Nature and Temperament, they will not find any inconvenience: but because these sorts of Persons are very rare, and that in the Age we Live, there are more Valetudinarians than others, I may be allowed to Write only for those who have their Entrails tender, and who are often incommoded by eating Fruits.  
The greatest part of men at present are of a hot and dry Complexion; we have all of us the inward parts very hot, through the excess of a  Choler, and through the redundancy of a troubled Melancholy. With difficulty are we able during the Summer to support the heat of the Season, without being exhausted of our strength: We have the Stomach so weak and so tender through our natural distemperature, that we have need of much precaution for the good use of Fruits.  
In the third place, we must remember, that in walking in a Garden full of excellent Fruit, which are perfectly Ripe; we must not eat one which has not first been washed with fresh Water, and especially if the heat of the Sun, or of the day be excessive.  
It is not of to day that experience has taught me, that Fruit newly gathered, and eaten without precaution, cause the Fevers which we call putrid, which always begin with shiverings and tremble, because all the Juices of Fruits being then through the heat of the day, and of the Season in a considerable motion, they cause in our Stomach so great a disorder at the time that the fermentation is there made, that the Chyle becoming crude and undigested, often gives Birth to great Diseases, whereas the motion of the Juice of Fruits being calmed by the cold of the Water, of the Night or of the season, the Fruits make no disorder in our Stomach, which then digests them better, and which performs its Office much better, when it is not interrupted by unusual causes.  
After all, we ought to know that our sood being in some sort like our substance, changes itself easily within our parts imperceptibly to us: It's thus that Bread, Flesh, an Egg, have no Predominant quality when we put them into our Mouth, and we do not sensibly feel the Virtues when we have them in the Stomach. We must not say so of Aliments which we call medicamental; they nourish little, and on the other side they have sensible qualities, which affect our Tongue and our Palate. We may perceive that a Vertelongue, or a Pear Portail will cool and moisten our heated Stomach, that it will qualify the Gall of our Liver, and the heat of our Reins, and that by cooling this last part, it will hinder Stones from being formed there.  
Finally, it's a grand secret for our good Health, to keep what we eat, from corrupting in the Stomach. The things of a different Nature which we put into it, daily cause disorders, whereof ourselves are too often Witnesses; if experience did not convince us of this truth, there would doubtless be a great deal of pleasure in eating many things one after the other; but it shows us that eating before or after Meals Fruits of a different Nature, that is to say, such as are easily corrupted, as Peaches, etc. and such as have a more firm substance, as Pears, etc. The Coction which is made in the Stomach is not laudable, and that it is thence that often proceeds the little Health of those who over loosely indulge themselves to the pleasure of the taste.  
If therefore we eat at the end of Meals Peaches and Pears, as it often happens, the Peaches being of a substance to be soon digested, and to pass off quickly, and the Pears of a pretty firm matter, requiring more time to Concoct, two great inconveniencies follow; the first, that the Peaches trouble the Belly, and make the Food taken at the Meal to descend, without being fully digested: the second, that they hastily drag along with them the Pears, which require a longer time for digestion, and thus there comes of it but crudities, and afterward obstructions, which are the cause of some troublesome Disease.  
It is not the same when we eat before Meals Mulberries and Peaches, or after Meals Pears and Quinces; the two first Fruits and the two last have a matter and qualities near alike: the former pass quickly through the Belly by reason of their great humidity: and the later digest themselves afterward at leisure, by constringing after the Meal the superior Orifice of the Stomach, which by this means acquits itself much better of its office.  

CHAP. I. Of Fruits which ought to be eaten before Meals.  
I Say in the first place that good Fruit which are Ripe, never do hurt, unless we misuse them, or commit faults in eating them; there are none but ill and unripe Fruit which cause Crudities, Indigestions, Colicks, and Fevers. I say much more; experience daily teaches us, that by the moderate use of them we prevent an infinite number of Diseases, and that we Cure as many. Our Gardens fail not of Remedies to relieve us, and I wonder we go so far into Foreign Countries to seek for Drogues, which are musty or rotten, when they are brought to us, since we have so excellent at home. Our Fruits have many more Virtues and Charms than all those Diogues, and there are seen few Persons who refuse Peaches, Mulberrys, or Pears, to appease the burning of the Bowels; Whereas we daily see Persons have in horror Tamarinds, Cassia, Rhubarb, and the other Drogues which are brought us from so far.  
Because I am obliged to follow the Order which I have prescribed to myself, I shall treat in this Chapter of the good use of those Fruits which ought to be eaten at Breakfast, or before Meals: and I shall begin with Figgs, which among all Fruits have always been the most esteemed.  

ART. I. Of Figgs.  
A 'Mong all the Food wherewith Men nourished themselves at the beginning of the World, there is not one which deserves a greater praise than Figgs. The Ancients have made Encomiums on them in many of their Books; and the Lacedæmonians so far esteemed them, that they would never go to any Feast where they were not provided in a great plenty. Also some have compared them to Gold, nay have esteemed them far better than this Metal. It's doubtless by reason of their sugary sweetess, which is the Symbol of peace, that men formerly wished their Friends a happy year, by sending them at the beginning of it Figgs and Honey.  
In truth, they have admirable Virtues in Case they are eaten with Bread, for Breakfast, or before Meals. For it is thus that they qualify the Bowels, and that they appease the excess of a troublesome heat. They do not fail of producing other good effects, they quench drought, lenify the Breast, and give a more easy respiration. They clear the Liver and the Spleen of the Obstructions wherewith they are afflicted. They discharge the Reins and the Bladder of their slime and Gravel: They loosen the Belly, be it never so tardy: finally they nourish and fatten both together, witness the famous Wrestlers, who performed most courageously, when they lived but of Bread and Figgs. Witness also the Keepers of Figg-Gardens, who (according to the Relation of Galen) eaten in a manner nought but Figgs, and who in the mean while were so fat, that a man would have said that nothing was wanting to them in their way of living.  
Figgs also have this peculiar to them, that they contribute to the vigour of young People, and to the Health of such as are Old, so that those who use of them often, have no Wrinkles in their Face. A better Reason cannot be given than that Figgs, by their fat substance engender a Blood which dulcifies much, and this same matter being carried to the superficies of the Body is there cleared as well as the Blood of all its serous and superfluous excrements, so that what remains serves as a natural Paint, and renders the Face smooth, and free from all sorts of Wrinkles.  
After all, they have the property of Penetrating, Cleansing and Digesting; for no man doubts but they are hot in the first degree, and moist in the second; the great humidity they have make them soon corrupt, and obliges us to eat them with Bread before Meals; for its the Leaven of the Bread which corrects all the ill qualities.  
It's a Maxim among Physicians, That we ought always to begin with the things that are moistest and easiest of digestion, when we Dine, or when we Sup. And this is also another, That after Fruits that are Sweet and Luscious, and which withal pass quickly through the Belly, we ought rather to Drink pure Water, or Water mixed with a little Wine, than Wine alone. Pure Wine carries hastily into the Lacteal Veins the matter of the Figgs before it be digested, and so causes winds, and Indigestions in those who so do: Whereas Water is the cause of a slower fermentation, by the means of which the Figgs are perfectly digested and make afterward a very laudable Blood, which easily becomes our substance.  
They are not proper only for such as are in Health, but likewise for those who have a Fever and are costive, and I cannot imagine to myself that a Learned Physician can refuse his Patient a Fig half dried on the Tree by the heat of the Sun.  
Dry Figgs have much more Virtue than those which we gather; we may eat of them even after Meals, without offence; also they are more penetrating and hotter than the others through the subtlety of their parts, but they are not so moist. If they are applied in the form of a Cataplasm with Bread and a little Vinegar, haply they are the quickest and most certain remedy for opening an abscess, for killing a Carbuncle, or the swelling of the Kings-Evil, or lastly to withstand the progress of a Latent Cancer.  
They do much more, if we will believe Dioscorides, for they tear from the Flesh (as we may say) a piece of a Bone broken, if we mix them with wild Popy Flowers.  
The Germane Physicians have not found a better remedy in the Smallpox, or Measles than the decoction of these Fruits dry; experience has shown them that this decoction, by Purging by Urine, carries away all the Malignant serosity which is the cause of those troublesome Diseases.  
But among all the good qualities which these Fruits enjoy, there are observed some ill: they cause Winds which swell the Stomach; they breed Lice, and makes us fond in caressing Women.  
The Spirits irritated and set in motion by the Winds which they engender, and a viscous humidity which they cause, are two things which dispose us to be fond of a Woman, as we have proved at large in a Dissertation we caused to be Printed the last year; which has for Title, Whether those who Drink Water alone are more amorous than others?  
The Lice which they say Figgs breed in those who use them in excess, proceed but from the filth of the Skin, and from our excrements which they evacuate by the pores: and the evils they cause in us by the Winds they engender, proceed but from the ill use we make of them; if we eat them with Nuts or Almonds, we shall correct all the disorders they can bring us; and I can assure you that being so eaten, they will be without fault, and will do us no hurt, still provided that we use them with moderation.   

ART. II. Of Nectarins and Peaches.  
I Cannot bear the contempt some Persons have for Nectarins, Alberges, Brugnons, Melicotonies, Perses and Peaches, nor be satisfied with the reason they bring for blaming them. They say among other things that these Fruits are corrupted so easily in the Stomach, that it is almost impossible to secure them from it; that they produce ill Blood, that they cause Fevers; that they injure the inward parts; that the Persians, from whose Country they were brought, dare not eat of them by reason of their Malignity, and finally that Galen, the most knowing of the Greek Physicians, always condemned them.  
But if it were free for me to explain myself at large thereon, and to break off the design which I proposed to myself; I would show that the ill use which is made of the most excellent things, is often the cause that they are despised and blamed. Peaches, not to speak of the other kinds, are a Fruit so excellent and so delicious to the taste, that I could freely prefer them before Figgs and Raisins, which (according to the sentiment of some) ought to hold the first rank among Fruits.  
Very far from causing all the evils whereof they are accused, they cool the Stomach when heated, quench the heat of the Liver, alloy the burning of the Blood during the extremity of the Summer heats, and moisten the matter which is then very thick through the drought of the Season.  
If we observe well their precautions, they do not corrupt in the Stomach, provided that they are eaten before Meals, and that after having eaten them we drink only Water, if we find a burning in the Bowels; or excellent Wine, if we find ourselves to have a very moderate heat; It is then that they will engender a better Blood than the Herbs we use every day.  
I own that in Persia these sorts of Fruits have Malignant and purgative qualities, but since the Trees were transported into Egypt, and have been replanted in Italy, and since cultivated in France, they have lost all the Malignity which they had, and have retained but the purgative Virtue, which they have still, and which they Communicate to their Fruit.  
It's this purgative Virtue which causes them to be so much esteemed of by the Healthy and Valetudinarians, who had much rather eat fasting four or five excellent Peaches, and drink after them Water or Wine, to loosen the Belly; than to take a dose of Physic, the very name of which raises a horror in those that take it the most courageously.  
It's this same property which resides in the Leaves, the Flowers and the Fruit of the Peach-tree, which kills the Worms in the Bowels, which Purges Choler and the Serosities of the Body, and stops even Vomitings at Sea, as we see written in the Works of Julius of Alexandria.  
If Galen had Lived in our days, and had tasted Peaches, which the Art and Industry of our Gardiner's have rendered so recommendable, I am certain he would have had quite another opinion of these sorts of Fruit: the Peaches which were carried to Rome in the Time of this Physician, coming by Sea from Sicily or from about Naples, were partly rotten before they came thither, which made Galen at that time to despise them, and to condemn them even as a Food very pernicious for Man.  
Some Persons will correct the ill quality, and the great humidity of the Peach; by eating it with Bread, by exposing it two or three days to the scorching heat of the Sun, by eating its Kernel, or finally by drinking pure Wine with it.  
True it is, experience has taught me, that Bread eaten with Fruits which we ought to use before Meals, corrects their ill qualities, and that by exposing Peaches to the Sun, they lose a superfluous humidity which often incommodes us. But the same experience has also given me to understand, that Peach and Apricock Kernels much charge the Stomach, and that besides their great bitterness they are also very difficult to digest: that moreover, tho' pure Wine be the sole thing which opposes itself to the coldness, and humidity of this Fruit; nevertheless if we drink much of such as is small or of a mean strength, we fall into Vomitings and Loosnesses, which sometimes degenerate into a Bloodyflux. Whereas a little of excellent pure Wine corrects by its noble heat the ill qualities of the Peach: It's haply this experiment which gave occasion for this Latin Verse.  Petre, quid est Pescha? Cum vino nobilis Esca.  

ART. III. Of Plums and Apricocks.  
THere are some who prefer the Plum before all other Fruits with Stones, and say that there is nothing more delicious to eat than a Black Damson, a Great Date, or a Perdrigon. The Apricock does not come near them, it has I know not what of unsavoury when it is ripe, and of sharpish when it is not so; mean while, both have very near the same qualities; they are both hot in the mean, and moist in the second Degree.  
The sweet Plum rejoices a hot Stomach, lenifies the Breast, Loosen's the Belly, and nourishes much more than the Peach, provided however that it be eaten before Meals, otherwise it corrupts, and by moistening too much the superior Orifice of the Stomach after Meals, it makes the Food descend too soon, and so causes Crudities, which it is difficult afterward to deal with.  
I shall not repeat here the different Maxims which I have laid down in the precedent Discourses concerning the Use of Fruits, which ought to be eaten fasting, and before Meals. I shall only say that its good to cast Plums into fresh Water before they are eaten, to the end they may cool and moisten more; but provided that they are very ripe, and that all have their Stems, lest the Water enter there, and render them Insipid. It's doubtless in order to be more cooled, and more moistened, and to keep the Belly more soluble that some Men eat often Prunes with their Meat, and that there are even some who dislike their Pottage if it has not of them.  
If dried Plums may be given to sick Persons, I do not doubt also but I may be permitted to give of them to mine, after having gathered them very ripe in a clear day; the Choler which is often the cause of all Fevers, loses its edge by the cumbrance which it receives from the substance of Plums: and because these Fruits oppose the heat and drought of these Diseases, they are esteemed excellent for encountering Bilous Fevers, provided that the use be regular, and that we take a seasonable time to give them.   

ART. iv Of Mulberries.  
OF all the Fruits that are eaten there are none but Mulberries which are fit for Men when unripe: these aught only to be Red, drawing toward the Black, to be eaten. If they are throughly ripe, they corrupt so hastily in the Stomach, that shortly after they cause in those who eat freely of them, Distempers of the Stomach, Loosnesses, Carbuncles, Malignant Swell, and often pernicious and Epidemic Diseases, especially if Rains have been rife during the Summer.  
There is nothing which changes itself sooner into Choler, and which becomes sooner poison within our Body than a Black Mulberry. Those who have the Stomach foul ought to take good heed of eating them, unless they have a mind to be sick in a short time. The Red-blacks withstand Corruption more, and tho' they are very moist, they have nevertheless I know not what of drought through their sharpness and astriction, which hinders them from corrupting so soon.  
To use them well, we ought nevertheless to mind the precautions belonging to them, and never to eat of them but when the Stomach is empty, clean, and hot; for if a heat be not felt in the Bowels, how young and Choleric soever a Person be, I do not advise him to eat of them, unless he has a mind to fall into some one of the Diseases which we have spoken of before.  
Mulberries carry their Liquor with them, and nothing aught to be Drank after they are eaten; they excite the appetite, cool the Stomach, appease drought, alloy the heat of the Liver, Purge the Blood of its superfluous serosities, carrying them off by Urine. They blunt the edge of the Choler, moisten those that are troubled with Melancholy and Choler: finally they make the Belly soluble in those who are naturally Costive. I will say much more, if Mulberries gathered from the Tree and eaten in a good plenty can cause the Bloodyflux; as we see it every year, nature which most commonly has placed the remedy in the cause of our evils, has not forgotten to teach us by experience, that these Fruits serve for an assured remedy against the inveterate Bloodyflux, if they are given dry to the weight of a Crown in Gold in Red-Wine.  
Since the chief Virtue of Mulberryes is to cool and to keep the Mass of Blood from fermenting, by qualifying the parts which serve for sanguification, there may be cause to believe that they may be a Remedy appropriated to the Gout as well as all other Fruits. For the pain which Gouty Persons feel in the ligaments of their Joints, is caused but by a Blood and a serosity too sharp, which sharpness is blunted by the great humidity of Mulberries, they insensibly evacuating it by Urine. We need not seek for other proofs than daily experience, and that which Hegesander has left us in Writing. He relates that the Mulberry-trees did not bear Fruit for Twenty years together, and that during all that time Men, Women, and Children, were so troubled with the Gout, that other causes could not be then discovered, than the scarcity of these Fruit.   

ART. V Of sharp Cherries.  
SHarp Fruits in general are enemies to Old and Melancholic Persons, when they do not find within themselves an excessive heat; they are not edulcorated in their Stomach (if I may so call it) and are distributed into their Veins without being Concocted and blunted. Which is not done without causing in the Mouth little sharp belchings, and in the Stomach troublesome prickings, and in the whole Body an insupportable heavyness.  
It does not happen so to young People that are Sanguine and Choleric who have the Entrails heated: but if casually the sharpness of Cherries with short Stems eaten fasting, causes sometimes in these prickings in the Stomach, they need then but to mix Powder Sugar with them, to blunt the point of it.  
The most refined Sugar and the whitest, which we call Royal, is the least proper for the use of Man; it heats and dries us too much, and through the abundance of its Sulphur and Salt, it is entirely opposite to the principles of our Life: The finer Sugar is the less sweet it is, and the less also it quenches thirst. Lime which is a capital Enemy of Man, if it be taken inwardly, or outwardly applied, is the chief matter which Refiners make use of, for rendering Sugar whiter and more solid; and tho' Powder Sugar be made by many repeated Lixivium's, nevertheless it ought always to be preferred before Loaf Sugar, and if we will choose the best of all, we must always take that which is the whitest among the browns. It is that which is extremely sweet, which quenches thirst, which moistens, and which lenifies the Breast: I thought it proper to make this digression for Persons who lovesweet things, because Sugar is often set at our Tables, for rendering our Fruits more agreeable to the taste.  
Sharp Cherries exhilerate the Stomach, they excite there the Appetite, and appease the drought. They dissipate the thick humours, and by their sharp quality, they cut them (as I may say) and divide them, either that they may serve afterward for Food, or be evacuated with more ease.  
By all these Virtues they are very proper as well as Mulberries, to oppose the cause and the progress of the Gout, and experience shows us that Gouty Persons receive a sensible relief by the use of Fruits, which qualify the Liver, and which correct the Acrimony of the Blood.  
Moreover they powerfully loosen the Belly, if they are freely eaten fasting while the Dew is yet on the Fruit; and experience teaches us every year that they carry off by a Looseness long Diseases, which all the other Remedies of Physic have not been able to Cure.  
The most proper time to eat them is in the Morning fasting, either with or without Bread. They have moisture enough to oblige us not to drink any Liquor after them. As for the lateward Cherries which we call at Rochel des Guignes with long Stems, tho' they may be eaten before Meals; nevertheless I allow them to be eaten after Meals: they have an agreeable Astriction, which contributes to Concoction, and which closes the superior Orifice of the Stomach, that it performs its Office afterward much better.  
The sweet Cherries, especially those which we call in this Town Guindoux and Guigneaux, are much better than the sharp for old Persons and for these who have a nice Stomach; they do not prick so much the inward parts, and they nourish more.  
Haply there is not any Remedy more agreeable and more excellent for qualifying the Reins, and for clearing thence the Gravel, Slime, and little Stones, than the Wine of sharp Cherries: We must take off them therefore in the Months of June or July, twelve or fifteen Pounds, we must cleanse them of their Stems and Stones, and cast them and their Stones broken through the Bunghole of a Barrel, (a Vessel containing somewhat more than our Barrel) of good White-wine. After that they have been there for a Month, and have Communicated to the Wine their cooling and opening quality, you may pierce the Vessel and drink the Wine with pleasure. The colour will be agreeable to the Eye, the taste delicious, and the effects admirable.    

CHAP. II. Of Fruits which ought to be eaten after Meals.  
THo' the Fruits which ought to be eaten after Meals are of a matter more firm, which nourishes more, and which does not corrupt so easily as that of the others, nevertheless we must remember to use them with the same precautions which we gave in the Preface to this Tract: these precautions ought to be stood too as Religiously in using these Fruits, as in eating the others. The faults which are committed in their use are very considerable, and that Person whom I Cured not long since of Vertigo's which threatened her with some severe Distemper, has been thankful to me since, for having forbidden her the use of Apples, which she are irregularly after Meals.  

ART. I. Of Pears.  
NEver has the Industry of our gardiner's appeared more admirable than in the divers kinds of Pears which we have in France. They have taken a particular care to Sow Seeds, and to preserve such Trees, as in their Wood and Leaves gave them marks of a good hope: For as by Sowing a great many Flower Seeds, there come of all kinds, and even some that are beautiful and double, so by Sowing a great store of Pear Kernels, it seems that Nature pleases herself in giving us a grand variety of Pear-trees, which produce all new Fruits, and some of them delicious to the taste: haply it is because the Pear is the most excellent Fruit of all, that she delights in multiplying its kinds even to an infinite number: It is thus that the Messire Jean, the Dame Houdote, or the Amadote, the Gabriel Egand, the Micet, the Martin-sire, and a great many other excellent Pears are come of Kernels, and that they have had the honour to bear the Names of those who raised them.  
But not to stop at this Discourse, which seems to contribute nothing to my design, I may say that the artifice of our Gardiner's has multiplied for us Pears of Summer, of Autumn and of Winter; that it has given us more of Cassantes and of Burez, that it has shown us more of Sweet, of sharp and of Acerb, and that finally it has procured for us more of Vinous, of Ambred and of Musked, than we had before.  
Among all these Pears the sweet and melting are esteemed the best, they nourish more than the others which are a little sharp or Acerb, and they are much more friendly to the nature of Man. Nevertheless there are some who prefer before these first Pears the Sweet and Cassant●s, because these for the most part are odoriferous, and the others are not. They prize therefore much more the Bonchretien-Pioulier, or the great Winter Musk Pear, than the Vergoulette, or the Bergamot of Autumn.  
Be it how it will, the Pear in general cools and moistens the heated Entrails, and by its gentle Astriction contributes much to the Concoction of the Stomach, by gently closing its superior Orifice, and by loosening a little the Belly; it's the reason for which it ought always to be eaten after Meals, for if it be eaten the Stomach being empty, it cumbers us, and loads us much, and moreover it binds the Belly; but however we eat of it after Meals, it always has very good effects, provided that we have the Stomach disposed to receive it: for be it that we eat it Crud, or Baked, or Roasted, or Boiled, with Powder Sugar and Cinnamon, as old People ought to eat it, after all these manners it always solaces the Stomach drained of its strength and weakened by the excess of heat.  
That which is to be Observed in the use of Pears, is, that after Meals we ought to eat fewer Beurees than Caffantes, the former being more digested, and more ready to corrupt through the least fault that we commit in our way of living. Moreover we ought always to make choice of the most coloured, and reject those which we find Worm eaten. Finally we ought after Pears to drink a good Cup of pure Wine, letting this Latin Maxim have its force, Post Crudum, merum. But above all we ought to remember not to drink much Wine, nor to drink such as is small; small Wine through its defect of heat not causing the Pear to be Concocted, and the other causing crudities by its redundancy, make both of them disorders in a Stomach the most even tempered and the most strong. It is what experience showed us not long since in a Person, who fell into insupportable pains, having drank much Wine; and Rodolphus Goclenius assures us, that another died having drank much Beer, both, after having eaten Pears to an excess.  
Because our Stomach is much hotter in Winter than in Summer, our heat not dissipating itself during that first season through the pores of our Body, there are Persons who rather eat Pears in Winter than in Summer, and who do not find themselves so much incommoded by them. Haply these Pears have sweated in the heap, and have there seasoned themselves; whereas the Pears of the Summer, having their Sap still in motion, and having not lost their superfluous humidity, trouble rather the Coction of the Stomach than the Pears of Winter.   

ART. II. Of Apples.  
SInce Appletrees have been cultivated in the Pais des Basques, and in the Province of Normandy, Men have had a greater esteem for their Fruits. Trees have been Sown, and afterward Grafted; they have been after that planted and replanted: Finally they have been so often changed in their Soil, Countries, and Climates, that the Fruit are become sweet and pleasant.  
I own that Apples were a long time despised, and that in Arabia they have even been accused of Contributing to the Prizick, and to the drying of the whole Body. It has been said also that they caused weakness in the Joints, and that consequently they increased the Gout and other Fluxions, that they engendered Worms in the Bowels, and that finally they caused Vertigo's, as experience shows it us, and as it happened formerly to Scipio Gentilis a famous Civilian, who after Meals abused these sorts of Fruits.  
But if Men have talked after this manner, either it has been because they knew not Apples well, and that they have been taken for other Fruit, or they judged of them, as Men do of all other things, by the ill success of those who have abused them: for if we will examine the thing very narrowly, we shall find that the Arabians had none but Apples that were wild, acerb and very unpleasant to the taste; that the weakness of the Joints, the Worms of the Bowels, and the Vertigo's are caused but by the excesses which are committed with them, or by the ill precautions that are taken in their use.  
On the contrary, Apples which are sweet and Luscious, Odoriferous and firm, exhilerate the Heart, and allay the excess of its beat; they correct the Gall of the Liver, they dilute the Blood, which is too thick and gross: in a word they cool and moisten the heated Viscera: Moreover, whatsoever is said, they oppose the drying of the Body and the Ptisick, and we see but very few of these sorts of evils where Cider is common: For this drink is friendly to the Stomach, which it heats in a moderate way; it revives the Heart, and opens the Obstructions of the Entrails: In a word it is of wonderful use to Melancholic and atrabilarious Persons; that which issues the first from Apples squeezed in a Press is not so excellent as the second: and the third resembles the Demy-wine of our Peasants.  
If we mix among Apples a little Powder Sugar, they make us spit, and cool our Breast.  
But they must be used with precaution, that is to say, that they must be eaten after Meals, because they are heavy and difficult to digest, that they ought to be forbidden Old People, unless they find themselves heated, or that they are prepared as Pears with Powder Sugar, Cinnamon and Water, and that finally we ought to drink a little of good Pure Wine after having eaten them.  
In the Distempers which are accompanied with a considerable heat and drought, they give a great relief, if we eat a little of them Crud, or Boiled, or that we put of them in Water: and I wonder that in France we give ourselves so much trouble in seeking Oranges and Citrons for our: Diseases, when we have a short-start Apple or a Spanish Rennet: Haply things which cost much, and are often difficult to be had, are much better than the common, and that they much more satisfy the mind of the Diseased; for it is this part which we ought often to Cure in those who find themselves ill.  
Finally, Apples do not profit us only by taking them at the Mouth, they are a sovereign Remedy for Heart-burnings and for the heats of the Stomach if they are outwardly applied: for if a Cataplasm be made of Boiled Apples, and applied hot on the Region of the Heart, or on the pit of the Stomach, haply we may not find an Epithem more Sovereign in those Cases. Also experience has shown us that the pulp of a boiled Apple put hot on Bloodshed and inflamed Eyes, is almost the only Remedy for this evil.   

ART III. Of Grafted Quinces.  
IT's a pleasant Medicine to Purge one's self by eating after Meals Portugal Quinces: The Fruit which I so call, are the Quinces whose Grafts were brought from that Kingdom, and which are almost as pleasant to eat and to behold as a Boncretien Pear, at least they have an odour more sweet and Luscious; they are yellow as Gold, and yield in nothing to those Pears in greatness, Figure and Beauty.  
Quinces are cold and dry, they restringe also manifestly the parts of the Body where they are applied; and 'tis by this astringent quality, that constringing the Stomach in the upper part, and afterward the Intestines, after that they are eaten, they squeeze, and force out all they meet within their cavity, be it Excrement, Choler or Phlegm. Its what happened to an Advocate of Pergamus, of whom Galen speaks, who was pleasantly Purged after having eaten Quinces after a Meal, and having walked a little upon it: so that after all the experiments that we have had of them, we ought no longer to doubt of their Virtues.  
Mean while the stirring of the Belly which they cause, does not happen but to Persons who have the Stomach weak and nice, and who have need by reason of this to fortify it; for these Fruits do not work the same effects in a young robust Man; and on the other side, if they are eaten before Meals, being very far from moving the Belly, they make it tardy; and it is so that those do who have it ordinarily too moist.  
Quinces have also other excellent Virtues; if they are eaten Crud, Boiled, or preserved with Sugar, they give an appetite, they stop a Looseness, appease Vomiting, withstand an old Dysentery and a Bloodyflux; and if wescrape off them Crud, and put the pulp of them hot on the Region of the Heart in the form of an Epitheme, when a Malignant Fever attacks us, they contribute not a little toward the subduing it▪ Their penetrating and sweet odour revives the Heart and the Brain, and it has not been heard said hitherto, that Quinces corrupt in the Stomach.  
I very much approve the method which some have of making Wine and Water of Quinces. These two Drinks have near the same Virtues, unless it be that the Water is most proper for those who find themselves much heated, and the Wine more meet for those who do not find any predominant quality, and who are old or Phlegmatic.  
The Water of Quinces which the Greeks call 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, is made after this manner. We take in the Month of October fifty or: sixty pints of Fountainwater, of Paris Measure [which comes near to our Quart] we put into it ten or twelve Pounds of Portugal Quinces, pared, cleansed, and cut in slices; they steep there till the Water has a yellow colour like that of Spanish Wine; after which we strain this Water, and then let it seethe over a gentle Fire till the fourth part be consumed, scumming it often, and after having put it in a Vessel well filled and well stopped, we preserve it for the Month of March following.  
The Wine is made after this manner; we take at Vintage time Ten or Twelve Pounds of Portugal Quinces, prepared after the same manner as I have said, we throw them into fifty or sixty pints of good Claret Must, and after that they have wrought for thirty days, we strain the Liquor, we put it into another Vessel which we stop up close, and we preserve it for use.  
These two Drinks produce good effects in Persons who use of them; they fortify the inward parts, oppose a Looseness and a Dysentery, cleanse the Reins of their filth, hinder the Vapour of Wine from offending the Head, and secure us from Pestilential Vapours: Finally, they cause so many good effects, that I must pass the bounds of an abstract if I would name them all   

ART. iv Of Medlars and Services.  
THese Fruits are seldom at our Tables, and they are eaten most commonly but in a fancy; they are not very agreeable, and there is but little pleasure taken in eating them. Mean while they are not without their use, and contribute something to our Health. They are both so near allied in qualities that a Person will not deceive himself if he takes the one for the other. They are cold and dry when they are hard, but when they are softish they acquire a better heat, by a sort of Corruption, that is to say, that they are not so cold; after the first way they restringe more and nourish less: and they ought to be used as Quinces, and to be eaten after Meals soft, Crud, Roasted, Boiled in Wine with Powder Sugar and Cinnamon, or finally Fried in fresh Butter, which does not render them disagreeable to the taste through the Skill of the Cook.  
But because after all these manners they produce the like effects as Quinces, this will oblige me to pass in silence what I have said in the precedent Article: I shall only add here, that the Stones of Medlars being powdered, and then taken by the Mouth to the weight of a Gold Crown in White-wine, cleanse the Reins of their Impurities, and even drive forth Stones which are small enough to pass through the ureters, and afterward through the Passage of the Urine.  
In reality these Stones are extremely dry, and they have in their matter particles which powerfully penetrate; for experience has taught me that the Stones of Fruits, and the hardest bones of Beasts and Fishes provoke Urine as specific Remedies. I do not doubt but that which Brassavolus has left us in Writing concerning the Virtues of the Stones of Medlars, is true, since he proves it by two sick Persons who were Cured thereby.  
But we ought not to suffer ourselves to be abused on this account by the promises of Quacks and Mountebanks, who boast to have certain Remedies for breaking the Stone in the Reins or in the Bladder: I know not whether the Stones of Medlars have more Virtue in Italy than in France, but at least I know by experience and reason, that neither the Stones of Medlars, nor all other Remedies have the force to break the Stone, nor to drive it forth of the Bladder, when it is to big too pass forth.  
The chief Virtue of Services is to cool and to restringe, as we have said: it's through these qualities that they serve for powerful Remedies against moist Diseases, against inveterate Loosnesses, and against long Dysenteries. Perhaps the Learned Bruyerius had not been Cured of a Malignant Dysentery which lasted him above a Month, if he had not eaten a great many Services; so true it is that the presumptuous boldness which we have in trying Remedies in our long Distempers, often succeeds much better with us than prudence itself.    

CHAP. III. Of Fruits, which may be eaten before, or after Meals.  
THere are Fruits which may be eaten at all times, because they do not corrupt in our Stomach, but through our fault: Wherefore we ought to have a peculiar design, and different precautions in using them. One Person would only cool and moiston himself. And besides this, another will have a farther design of rendering the Belly soluble: thus there may be need of these Fruits in different occasions.  

ART. I. Of Raisins.  
THe most excellent Raisins which our Province furnishes us with, and which are ordinarily served at our Table, are those which are sweet, tasting of Sugar and Amber: many prefer them to all other Fruits; and they yield us a Liquor, which is the most agreeable and richest present that ever God gave to Man. If I would extend myself here on the Encomium of Raisins, I persuade myself that I should find but too much matter to say fine things of them; but, because I proposed to myself to Write only concerning the use of the Fruits of Trees as briefly as possible; I must be allowed to deliver my thoughts in a few words concerning the use of Raisins eaten before or after Meals.  
But before I explain myself thereon, I fancy that I ought to establish some general Maxims, for well using them, without being damnified thereby.  
A Woman who has the Stomach nice and weak must never eat Raisins newly gathered; they puff up the Belly, they cause a rumbling and winds, and trouble the Concoction of the Stomach: moreover she must not eat but of such as are excellent and very ripe, and again she must not so much as look on those which have grown in the shade, and which the Sun has not heated with its rays.  
To correct the ill quality of Raisins, they must be gathered some days before you will eat them, or else you may take such as have been hung up in a Chamber, or if at time of Vintage you have an inclination for eating such as are fresh, they must be dipped into boiling Water, and then into fresh Water, and so they must be served to Table.  
Raisins are moist and moderately hot, and by these two qualities they are proportionate to the Principles of our Life; they nourish much more than other Fruits, if we except Figgs: they revive the Spirits by their sweet and odoriferous savour, they cheer up a Stomach which is languishing and heated through Labour, and moisten the Viscera, and so correct by their pleasant moisture the drought and which the heat of Autumn has there caused.  
Nay there are Physicians who do not deny them to their sick Patients when they begin to amend, tho' on condition that they eat them with Bread, and throw away the Stones and the Skin, as two parts which cannot be digested by a Stomach how robust soever.  
It they are eaten fasting, without Bread, as they come from the Tree moistened with the Dew of the Night, they purge the Belly even of those who have it naturally tardy; there is neither Water of Cassia nor Manna which ought to be preferred to Raisins so eaten.  
We ought here to remember not to drink Wine unless it be well diluted, after having eaten Raisins fasting: Nay it would be better not to drink at all, or to drink only pure Water; pure Wine mixed in the Stomach with the new Juice of the Raisins makes so extraordinary a fermentation, that the accidents which arise from it are much greater than you may imagine: For the Wine carries the Chyle and the Juices into the Bowels and into the Reins, before they are digested, and so causes impurities and indigestions in the Blood; whereas Water hindering the great ebullition of the Stomach, contributes to a good Concoction; it causes the Chyle to become more pure, and that we are more refreshed and moistened by the use of the Raisins.  
We ought not so to do when we eat them after Meals, for we may drink a good Glass of pure Wine, and not consider so much the Raisins prepared as we have said before, as the food which we have taken at our Meal.  
Tho the Stones cannot be digested, yet we ought not to throw them away when we eat Raisins after Meals: For since they are astringent, they correct the great humidity, which is the cause of the evils which they bring upon us. We must chew them therefore very small, and reduce them to minute parts betwixt the Teeth, that they may contribute to the Coction of our Stomach, and correct the ill qualities of the Raisins: It is thus we ought to eat after Meals the dry Raisins which are brought from Spain; for by nourishing and lenifying our inward parts they solace them by their sweetness, and fortify them by the astriction of their Stones.  
I shall not pass by here the excellent drink. which is made with dry Raisins, and is called de Cabat. The Stones must be taken away from fifteen or twenty Pounds, and then the Raisins must be bruised a little: and in the Month of January or of February, which is the time that they are brought to us from Spain, they must be put in an excellent Barique (a Vessel somewhat more than our Barrel) of White-wine to drink at Easter. This Wine will have the colour of a Spanish Wine, it will be pleasing to the , and will have qualities not to be contemned; for it lenifies the Breast, appeases the Cough, helps respiration, and fortifies the Stomach and the Liver, creates an Appetite, opposes inclinations to Vomit, stops a Looseness; in a word, it is an excellent Remedy against the Dropsy, it agrees admirably with Old men, with Valetudinarians, with Phlegmatic or Melancholic Persons, and finally with Women of a tender Constitution.   

ART. II. Of China and Portugal Oranges.  
THe Grafted Orange-trees which were brought from China into Portugal, and which have been multiplied in the later Kingdom, produce Oranges which have a fine Rind, a vinous Juice, and which are very pleasant to eat; they may be used before or after Meals, for being more moist than cold, they qualify also after Meals a Stomach too hot and too dry, and so help Concoction.  
Those which are brought us ordinarily from Portugal are sharp or aigres-douces, they are colder than the former, and they refresh more, and more oppose the Corruption of our humours.  
Sharp Oranges ought never to be used after Meals, they hinder the digestion of the Stomach by their coldness, but they are very proper for quenching the heat of our Liver, and to give us an appetite, if we take the Juice before Meals with Water and a little Powder Sugar, but especially when the great heats of the Summer or of Autumn exhaust our strength.  
I say no more here, for that I will not repeat what I have said in the Article of Cherries, where you may see what sharp Fruits are capable of doing within us, and the precautions we must take to use of them. I shall only say that the Rinds of sharp Oranges being squeezed a little into Wine, renders it more agreeable to the taste of many Persons, and makes it pass more readily by Urine.  
Our sick Persons use both the one and the other, and if you will believe them on their own experience, they will tell you that there is not a better Remedy than these Fruits for quenching Thirst, cooling the Stomach, qualifying the Liver, provoking Urine, taking away the Heart burning, opposing inward Poisons; in a word, for Curing the Diseases which are accompanied with an insupportable heat and drought and indeed, if we cut a China or Portugal, vinous Orange into four parts, and throw it into a pot of Water with the Rined, this drink will have all the Virtues even now mentioned.   

ART. III. Of Spanish Pomegranates.  
WE cultivate in our Gardens sweet, Aigres-doux, and sharp Pomegranate-trees which came to us from Spain; for as for those of France which are wild, we cannot eat the Fruits: The Flowers and Rinds of Pomegranates are astringent, and both serve to Cure our Diseases which are caused through a too great humidity. They have the Virtue of constringing the parts of our Body together, and of giving them the Situation which they had lost: The inside of the Kernels of a Pomegranate is useless and undigested, our Stomach cannot dissolve it, and there is no Body who eats it. There is but the pulp which is about the Kernels that yields an agreeable Juice, wherewith we are often solaced in our sicknesses.  
Sharp Pomegranates ought to be used before Meals, when the Stomach is empty; and if the point of their sharpness does us hurt, as it happens in those who have this part weak and tender, we need but blunt it with Water and Sugar to make a delicious Drink: Then this agreeable Liquor cools the Stomach, quenches thirst, qualifies the Liver, weakens the sharpness of the Choler, revives the Heart, resists putrefaction, provokes Urine; in a word, it's a Drink proper for the Sick and sound. It is much better than the Boüillons of Veal, and of cooling Herbs, which are taken too often in the Summer, and in Autumn to qualify the Entrails, and to resist the heat and drought of the Season: for the continual use which is made of Boüillons, is wholly an enemy to the Stomach, their substance relaxes too much the membranes, and to perform well its Office it must have a certain temperament which is not too moist; whereas the Drink of sharp Pomegranates, by restringing it gently, tempers this part, and at the same time all the others.  
Sweet and vinous Pomegranates do not cool so much as the sharp, but they dulcify more, and are more proper for Old and atribilarious Persons.  
Those who find a heat in their Bowels, are very much solaced after having swallowed some Spoonfuls of the Juice of these Fruits: It is so that the Carthaginians used of them, from whose Country Pomegranates were brought: and it were those also who taught us by their own experience the greatest part of the good effects which they cause in us, when we use of them. It cannot be said what goods the Juice of sweet and vinous Pomegranates, pressed forth, scummed, and fermented may produce: it strongly opposes all inward Fluxions, it resists all Fevers which are accompanied with a Looseness and an exhausting of our strength, and it has this proper to it, that it fortifies all our languishing parts. If we will make some Bottles of it, we must squeeze forth in a Press a sufficient quantity of Pomegranates, we must seethe the Juice over a gentle Charcoal Fire to the diminution of the third part, after having well scummed it, and afterward it must be kept for use.  
If we put in White-wine the Kernels of sweet or vinous Pomegranates, or after the same manner as we have prescribed for sharp Cherries, we shall have a Wine which will yield in nothing to all the Remedies which Physic has invented hitherto for allaying the burning of the Reins, for cleansing forth all the filth, and for hindering Stones from being there formed.   

ART iv Of Corands.  
THe Red Corands and the White, which we call Gadelles, have very near the same qualities, tho' the Gadelles are more sharp, and the Red more pleasant to eat. Both of them cool and restring the parts of the Body through which they pass; they hinder Vomiting, quench drought, blunt the Choler, remove Obstructions, fortify the parts, and they solace both the healthy and Sick that are heated, if they are used before or after Meals.  
Their pungent sharpness ought to be corrected, as that of Cherries and Pomegranates, or we may make them into a Sugar Paste or Jelly, which is very proper for those who have the Stomach weakened by long Sicknesses; and I have Cured many Persons of considerable quality, who had this part very much afflicted by continual Vomitings, and had a troublesome Looseness of the Belly, by giving only a Paste or Jelly of Corands, and of the moist conserve of Provins Roses.  
In Imitation of the Turks, during the great heats of the Summer, we may make of the greatest part of the Fruits before spoken of, a sort of Sherbet to be drank with Ice: and I allow young Sanguine and bilous People, who have known by experience that drinking with Ice does not incommode them, I allow them, I say, to drink of it, with prudence for allaying the excess of their heat: This will be a sure means to hinder them from being set upon by continual and Malignant Fevers, and to keep them in good Health during all the Summer and Autumn. As for others who are of another temperament, and of another Age, they must not touch of it, and they must remember that heat, which we must not destroy, is one of the Principles of our Life.      


THE TABLE OF THE Chapters of the First PART.  
THe Art of Pruning Fruit-trees. Pag. 1  
Chap. 1. The Pruning of Fruit-trees for the Month of February. p. 2  
Chap. 2. The Pruning of Fruit-trees at the beginning of May. p. 31  
Chap. 3. The Pruning of Fruit-trees at the beginning of June. p. 33  
Chap. 4. The Pruning of Fruit-trees at the end of July. p. 42  
An Explanation of some words used by gardiner's to express themselves speaking of Fruit-trees. p. 48  
The end of the First Table.   

THE TABLE OF THE SECOND PART.  
OF the Use of the Fruits of Trees for keeping us in Health, or for Curing us when we are Sick. Pag. 50  
Chap. 1. Of the Fruits which ought to be eaten before Meals. p. 59  
Art. 1. Of Figgs. p. 60  
Art. 2. Of Nectarins and Peaches. p. 65  
Art. 3. Of Plums and Apricocks. p. 69  
Art. 4. Of Mulberries. p. 71  
Art. 5. Of sharp Cherries. p. 74  
Chap. 2. Of the Fruits which ought to be eaten after Meals. p. 78  
Art. 1. Of Pears. p. 79  
Art. 2. Of Apples. p. 83  
Art. 3. Of Quinces. p. 87  
Art. 4. Of Medlars and Services. p. 90  
Chap. 3. Of the Fruits which may be eaten before and after Meals. p. 93  
Art. 1. Of Raisins. p. 94  
Art. 2. Of China and Portugal Oranges. p. 98  
Art. 3. Of Spanish Pomegranates. p. 100  
Art. 4. Of Corands. p. 103  
The end of Second Table.    

A CATALOGUE of some Books Printed for and to be sold by Thomas Basset at the George in Fleetstreet.  

Folio.  
DR. Lightsoots Works in two Volumes. Speeds maps, and Geography of Great Britain and Ireland, and of Foreign Parts.  
Wanleys' History of Man.  
Bishop Wilkins Real Character.  
Pharmacopeia Londinensis.  
Hooker's Ecclesiastical Polity.  
Judge Jones Reports.  
Judge Winches Book of Entries.  
Guillims' Heraldry.  
Bishop Saudersons Sermons.  
Foulis History of Romish Treasons.  
Croaks Reports in three Volumes.  
Daltons' Offices of Sheriffs.  
— Justice of Peace.  
Coke Reports in 13 Parts.  
Selden's Jani Anglorum in English.  
Lex Mercatoria.  
Mezerays History of France.  
cowel's Interpreter, Enlarged by Manley.  
Littleton's Reports.  
Dr. Howels History of the World.  
Grotius of War and Peace, English.  
Townsends Historical Collections.  
Pharamont.  
Heaths Chronicle.  
Pettus of Mines and Minerals.  
History of the Cariby Islands.  
brent's History of France.  
Brown's Entries in two Parts.  
Sir Roger Manly's History of the Wars of Denmark.  
Lord Bridgmans' Conveyances.  
Lord Coke 2d. 3d. and 4th Institutes.  
Hutton's Reports with New References.  
Modern Reports.  
Leys Reports.  
Hetleys' Reports.  
The Ten Volumes of Year Books with New References.  
Edward the Second Published by Sergeant Maynard.  
Officina Brevium.  
A Catalogue of all the Common and Statute Law-Books of this Realm, to this present Year, 1684.   

Quarto.  
Dr. Littleton's Dictionary, the Second Edition.  
Gouldmans' Dictionary.  
Coals Dictionary.  
Mieges French Dictionary.  
The Travels of the Patriarches.  
A Discourse of the Laws Civil and Ecclesiastical.  
Doctrina Placitandi.  
Moils Entries.  
Complete Clerk.  
Dr. Parker of the Law of Nature.  
Shepherd's Grand Abridgement.  
Dr. Hayward's two Sermons before the King.  
A Collection of the Cases relating to Church Communion, Written by several Ministers in and about London.  
Counter-Scuffle.  
Mandevil's Travels.  
History of the Seven Champions.  
Dr. sherlock's Sermon on the Discovery of the Plot.  
The Difference of the Case between the separation of the Protestants from the Church of Rome, and the separation of Dissenters from the Church of England.  
Medicina Curiosa.   

Octavo.  
Mieges French Dictionary.  
The London Practice of Physic, being the whole Practic Part of Dr Willis's Works.  
Dr. Salmon Dispensatory.  
— his Doron Medicum.  
Several Tracts of Mr. Hales of Eton.  
Bishop sanderson's Life.  
Coals Dictionary Latin and English.  
Bishop Wilkins Sermons, never before Extant.  
— Principles and Duty of Natural Religion.  
filmer's Patriarcha.  
Mieges French Grammar with a Vocabulary and Dialogues.  
— short French Grammar.  
Mieges Present State of Denmark.  
— Cosmography.  
Berniers Travels.  
Art how to know Men.  
Pools English Parnassus.  
Dr. Whitby of Idolatry.  
Dr. Hinckley and Mr. Baxters' Letters.  
Shepherd's Actions for Slander.  
— Action on the Case for Deeds.  
Blounts' Ancient Tenors.  
Complete Solicitor, entering Clerk and Attorney.  
Touchstone for Gold and Silver.  
Pettyt's Rights of the Commons.  
— Miscellanies.  
The Egyptian History.  
Atwoods' Jani Anglorum facies Nova.  
Sir John Pettus of the Constitutions of Parliaments.  
Russian Impostor.  
Ogilbys Aesop's Fables with Cuts.  
Lawrence's Interest of Ireland.  
A New Book of Instruments.  
French Monarchy.  
Anglers vade Meum.  
Scarons' Novels.  
Meriton of Dreams.  
Clerk's Tutor.  
Brown of Fines and Recoveries.  
Kitchen Physic.  
Posing of the Parts.   

Duodecimo.  
Heylins' help to History.  
Lukins Chief Interest of Man.  
Help to Discourse.  
Mother's Blessing.  
Grotius de veritate Relig. Christ.  
Bishop laud's Devotions.  
Lady's Calling.  
Vaughan of Coins and Coinage.  
Meritons' Guide for Constables.  
— Landlord's Law.  
Phillip's Principles of the Law.  
Manwaring of Consumptions.  
Catalogue of Law Books.  
Pharmacopeia Londoniensis.  
Butler's Rhetoric.  
Lucian's Dialogues Greek and Latin.  
Tully's Select Epistles.   
FINIS.