The Merchant's Warehouse laid open: OR, The Plain Dealing LINEN-DRAPER.  
SHOWING How to Buy all sorts of Linen and Indian Goods: Wherein is perfect and plain Instructions, for all sorts of Persons, that they may not be deceived in any sort of Linen they want. Useful for Linen Drapers, and their Country Chapmen, for Semstresses, and in general for all persons whatsoever. Whereunto is added, The Art of Cutting out Shifts, so that you may save a quarter of an Ell, in Cutting out one Shift, and ●…et Cut it as long and large, as others hall out of a quarter more. A Work never before Attempted.  
DEDICATED To Her Royal Highness the Princess Ann of Denmark.  
By J. F.  
LONDON. ●●●●ted for John Sprint at the Bell, and Geo. Conyers at the Golden Ring in Little Britain. 1696.   

TO HER Royal Highness THE ●…rincess Ann of Denmark. Humbly Dedicated.  
MAY it please your Highness, that the Loud Acclamations, and Applause of your unlimited ●●…dness, and boundless Charity to all those that ●…y themselves to your Bounty, have never yet 〈◊〉 known to return empty handed, which hath ●●…sioned this present boldness in me, humbly to ●●●ent this small Epistle to your Royal Highness, and 〈◊〉 made me presume with all humility to crave ●●…rage to this small Epistle: Neither had I taken 〈◊〉 Presumption on me, had I not been very well ●●…ed of two things, the first is, That amongst ●…hem any Books that have been Writ on most ●●…cts, there hath not yet in any Age been any ●●●rth on this; the next is, That I am well assu●●● it will prove as general an assistance and good Worldly Affairs, as any yet written, both to 〈◊〉 and Poor, by reason the Rich and Wealthy do 〈◊〉 buy great quantities of Linen, and so conse●…tly, when they are deceived with bad Linen, 〈◊〉 be deceived of great Sums; and the Poor having but little Moneys to lay out, and that little 〈◊〉 haps, hath been saved out of their Families B●… to procure a little clean Linen to put on their 〈◊〉 and if they are deceived of that, can by no 〈◊〉 get more to supply themselves withal; but if 〈◊〉 take the advice of this little Book, they will n●… 〈◊〉 of their expectation, in having that which is 〈◊〉 let it be of any sort of Linen, or Indian 〈◊〉 whatsoever they shall have occasion for: An●… these reasons I shall presume to place it among●●… of your Acts of Charity, it being hoped to 〈◊〉 Act of Charity to those Poor People that seldo●… Linen, and being unskilful in Linen, are 〈◊〉 fore often deceived to their great sorrow; Th●…●●…ing the first Book I ever wrote in my Life, and 〈◊〉 fore humbly crave your Royal Patronage and charitable Construction, on what your Wis●●● Knowing Judgement shall think amiss, is the H●●… Request of  
Your Royal Highnesses most Humbl●… Obedient Servant.   

AN EPISTLE TO THE ●…ourteous READER.  
〈◊〉 Five reasons I have been prevailed with to Write this little Book; the First Reason is, That those that ●●●ly dealt withal, having found by Experience that 〈◊〉 Linen on my Judgement, were never Cheated ●●…elved; and therefore have been very Importunate ●…e I left off, to have me put forth some Directions ●●…ey may have understanding to buy good, and not be 〈◊〉. The Second is, The great difficulty it is for ●●●ple to know good Linen from bad, by reason many 〈◊〉 Linen are very good to appearance, and yet wear ●●…er, and other sorts again appear very thin and ill, 〈◊〉 the best of Cloth. The Third is, To prevent 〈◊〉 from buying damaged Cloth, which most People buy, ●…ing well to the Eye, but when it comes into the Wa●●…ls into pieces, and are in as much want the week af●●…●…ashed as if they had not bought any. The Fourth ●●…event all People from buying one thing for another, ●…asking for one sort, they are shown another, which ●●…lse sort, and wears very ill, and that is for want ●●…ing the sorts of Cloth, which several sorts I shall 〈◊〉 you with such Instructions how to know them, that ●●●nest Capacity shall know all, or most sorts of Cloth, ●…hey shall have occasion to use or inquire for. The Fifth and Last Reason, which hath persuaded me i●… you know, that few or none of those  that are 〈◊〉 about and sold by the Pedlars, are the true and ri●●● Cloth for wear, but are a sort of fine Cloth to the 〈◊〉 but wears not above half the time of true  〈◊〉 few or no people can discern, till they have worn●●… and by that time they have forgotten who sold it t●●… it may be, when they have sold it you, will not ap●… you in some time, but send their Partners, by re●●● know they have sold you a bad Cloth for a good; I sha●●… fore make it my endeavour in this little Book, to 〈◊〉 you such Instructions, for every sort of Cloth o●… Goods, that you may not be deceived by the mo●●… Dealer, if you shall please to take the Advice of t●●… Book; laying out the Price of one Book shall be 〈◊〉 buying of six els of Linen; and in order to yo●… understanding thereof, I shall proceed Alphabetica●… if it answers my design to your content, I shall i●… time enlarge on the same subject, and shall esteem●… happy, in being the instrument of your good,  
Yours   

THE Plaindealing LINEN-DRAPER.  

A.  
BEcause I design to go on Alphabetically in this Book, and the Cloth that deserves the preeminency in this, both for general and common use and strength, there is no 〈◊〉 that is at present in use, that exceeds Alco●●…-holland, it being made of the best Flax in the 〈◊〉, and the third being Spun by the most care●…d curious hands; and it is Wove by the best of ●●…rs; and therefore if you are resolved not to 〈◊〉 good Holland for Shirts and Shifts, you must ●…is sort of Holland; now to let you know how ●●…or choose the right, you must ask for Alcomore●…d that is made by one Stanlack in Holland, who ●…akes the true Cloth, the pieces contain about ●●●ty nine, or thirty four els at the most; it hath 〈◊〉 in the Selvidges, not commonly sewed on, ●…yed into holes lose in the Cloth: The present 〈◊〉 Prizes are from two Shillings and four Pence, ●…ree Shillings, which is generally the highest 〈◊〉 of the sort; it is about one yard and half a ●●…ter broad. There is also another sort of Alco●●…-holland, of the same man's make, which is above three quarters of a yard wide, and hath 〈◊〉 sewed on to both Selvidges, the right of both 〈◊〉 marked with this mark on the end at the 〈◊〉 of the breadth. So much for Alcomore.   

B.  
I shall begin with Borelaps, because 〈◊〉 Shifts or Shirts is counted and known to b●… 〈◊〉 strong Cloth, though not so certainly stron●… former, yet if they are thick and even thre●… wear well, but if thin and uneven, they wear 〈◊〉 there is three sorts, one Ell wide, the oth●●… wide, and another three quarters wide, th●… made up much like an Alcomore-holland, 〈◊〉 crested or double in the middle, and have 〈◊〉 sewed on: The ill-conveniency that attends 〈◊〉 of Cloth is, that it seldom wears white, th●… third sort of Holland, which not only wears 〈◊〉 as Alcomore-holland, but washeth whiter 〈◊〉 doth, but that being Ell-wide is only used for 〈◊〉 it is called Bridges-holland.  
The next being Muzzling called Bettilies', 〈◊〉 of general use for Cravats, or Heads for Wo●●● use for several things, it being a more ag●… 〈◊〉 wear than any other slight , and is the ●●●est of all Muslings that comes into England o●…dinary sort, for there is none of them ever ye●… extreme fine: There is two sorts of those B●… the short sort as it is generally called, contain●●…ty yards, the long sort contains about twen●●… yards; they are near ell-wide, and are the 〈◊〉 of all Muslings for washing, there is beside●… Bettilies', Colconda, and Oringal Bettilie●… your Cumum Bettilies', and several others; 〈◊〉 shall only treat of these, and of these I shal●… 〈◊〉 instructions in their order as they are set 〈◊〉 because these are the present useful ones for ●…wice, the Bettelies' Colconda are generally ve●…e but thin, they are useful only for women's ●…e, by reason they wear very slight and ill; ●●…e about yard wide or a little more, they con●●…ut sixteen yards in a piece: and are no ways 〈◊〉 men's use, by reason they are apt to be frayed, 〈◊〉 they be starched by those that make it their ●…on only to starch, they are usually frayed in ●…iece as they come over, therefore you must 〈◊〉 your inspection great care, lost the piece be ●●…ay'd when you buy them, for if they be, you ●…ver bring it to rights in the washing; but ●…arched, if preserved from fraying, they look ●●…licate and clear. The second is the Oringal ●●…s, this is of a different nature, they being ●…elve yards long, and are the properest sort ●●…cks of Mons Cravats, and for Cravats for or●●●● Tradesmen they are extreme good, by rea●●…ey are not only strong but thick; they are 〈◊〉 yard ⅛ wide, and are usually the cheapest of 〈◊〉 those Bettilies' I have named, and are fit for ●…ses that Muslings are used for, the third and 〈◊〉 Bettilies' that I shall speak of in this Book, is ●…etilies Cumum, which is above fourteen yard's ●●…ece, and yard half quarter wide, it is usually ●…e the first Bettily, and very thin, but yet 〈◊〉 very well, very little worse than the first Bet●●●● I have mentioned, it being very clear and 〈◊〉; it is very useful for many things, especially 〈◊〉 use of Women. The next Cloth that comes 〈◊〉 the Letter B, is a Cloth called Barras, they 〈◊〉 generally twenty eight els, it is about Ell 〈◊〉 it is a very useful Cloth for packing of Goods ●…e Country, and when well whited is good for ordinary Sheets for Poor People and Servan●… of good breadth, and although very thin, 〈◊〉 strong, but especially if it be thick; there is 〈◊〉 sort of Stuff called Boulter, it is not half yard made of a sort of Woollen, which is very thi●… for straining and such like uses; it being of 〈◊〉 importance, I shall not treat farther on it, 〈◊〉 you know that they are usually, and ough●… twenty four yards long, and is bought for fou●… or six Shillings when dear, by the Piece, an●… at Retail for 6 d per yard. As for Calicoes, 〈◊〉 son they are of general use with us, I shall 〈◊〉 some of them; the First is Bafts, of which th●… two sorts, broad and narrow, they both hold teen yards in length, the one being above ya●●… other three quarters wide, they are the stron●… any ordinary Callicoe, and wear very well, 〈◊〉 much worn in Shirts and Shifts, the greatest ●●…veniency that attends them, they are incli●… wash yellow without very good washing; 〈◊〉 another sort is called Birompots, which is 〈◊〉 the same nature and length, which is used 〈◊〉 same use, and for Linings of Breeches, 〈◊〉 strong. I could name many more, but 〈◊〉 name all sorts, it would swell the Book bey●… designed limits, therefore shall content my se●… what only is useful; there is one sort of Cal●… led Birom Banies, which is much used for Cu●… This Birom Banies is a calico striped with a●… and white Cotton, wove one by the other, 〈◊〉 two or three stripes of brown, and one broad this calico is above yard wide, it holds te●… each Piece, it is naturally a rotten sort of we●… for that reason is fit only to hang up for C●… either for Beds or Windows; it usually was 〈◊〉 seven, eight, or nine Shillings a Piece, but 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 Indian Goods grown dearer, it oftentimes is 〈◊〉 cots and slits, therefore you must take great ●●…en you buy any of it.   

C.  
●…ll begin with Cambrics, it being a Cloth ve●…l in our Nation, for these following uses, ●●…dkerchiefs, for Head Linen, for Bishop's 〈◊〉; there is a great deal of difficulty to know 〈◊〉 Cambric from Kentings, by reason there ●●…ings are of the same breadth, and are of the ●…hiteness as the Cambrics are; the Kentings 〈◊〉 never so white at first, will in time wash yel●●…st for Cambrics, they will wash white to the 〈◊〉 its wear; the Cambrics are sold either 〈◊〉 fifteen, or thirty in a Parcel, the Kentings ●●…d by Rounds, as four or five in a Round, as 〈◊〉 sold by Retail, the Kentings are always sold 〈◊〉 than Cambrics of the same fineness. Cro●●● sort of very course Linne, it is of the use ●●…s is of, it is the general sort of brown Lin●…hich is used for Packing for Exportation, ●●…land Goods, it being whited, it wears very ●…feriour to a right Canvas, farther, it being 〈◊〉, it is useful for abundance of other uses, as ●…chen . Canvas, there are several 〈◊〉 but coming all from France, at this time they ●…ohibited from coming into this Nation, and 〈◊〉 reason I shall in this Book pass by the directi●●…●…hich otherwise should have been given in this, 〈◊〉 have a sort of Cloth made here in England 〈◊〉 Canvas, which name ought properly to be gi●●… none but French: but this sort of English 〈◊〉 which I am going to treat of, is a sort that ●…e here, and died in thread yellow, if you can get the colour that fits you, and fine enough●… purpose, it is better for Stays than Frenc●… will not retch, nor let Stays out of shape. 〈◊〉 of this Letter is Indian things, and the fir●●● name is Cossees Muzzling, it being a sort of 〈◊〉 which is of several bredths, as some almost 〈◊〉 half wide, others of above yard wide, oth●●… little more than three quarters wide, the 〈◊〉 bredths being usually very fine and thick, ●●●ful for a great many uses, which I shall omit 〈◊〉 the Buyer putting it to such uses as they thi●… proper, excepting Cravats, for which it is to 〈◊〉 and will wear yellow, and look ill about th●●… but withal it wears very strong; the narrow 〈◊〉 Cossees is thin and very course, only pre●●… course Necks of Cravats, or to lie betwixt 〈◊〉 Chequered Linen is a thing of great use in ●●●tion, for Bed-quilts, and for Sea shirts, it be 〈◊〉 wide, it is sold for thirty Shillings, or thir●●… Shillings a Piece, there is about thirty six ya●●… Piece, it being thin, yet wears well, it is usu●●… for 12 d. per yard. Coureyes is a sort of fi●●… calico about yard wide, it is a strong Call●●● double threaded one way, it is but seven yar●●… half long in the Piece, is something yellow Izarees, and cannot be known from right 〈◊〉 only the length of the Izarees is eight yar●… the Izarees is double threaded both ways, 〈◊〉 two sorts of Indian Silk called Culgees, th●●… Satin, the other is Taffeta, they are stained 〈◊〉 sorts of Colours; they wear as well as any S●… comes from the Indies, they are much used for kerchiefs, and for Lining of Beds, and for 〈◊〉 for both Men and Women: they are two b●●● three quarters wide, and yard half quarter●… they are as at this time all Goods is, not on●●… ●●…certain Prizes. Chints being of so general 〈◊〉 this City, that I cannot ●…omit speaking of 〈◊〉 there being several sorts, but I shall speak of 〈◊〉 few; the first is a sort of very fine Chints, 〈◊〉 are Painted with very fine Colours all of In●●…gures, either of Birds, Beasts or Imagery, 〈◊〉 washed never so often, still retain their co●●●● they are worn to pieces. There are your 〈◊〉 Serunge which are something courser, yet 〈◊〉 very pretty Flowers, they are about three 〈◊〉 of a yard wide, about twelve yards in a 〈◊〉 The Colours of those continue as well as ●●…er, they are usually sold for Gowns, Petty●●… and to make Quilts for Beds, which Quilts ●●●ted the finest sort. There is a third sort 〈◊〉 all the sorts at present I shall name, this sort 〈◊〉 former is of great use for making ordinary 〈◊〉 which 〈◊〉 the greatest use they are sold for, ●●●ing about seven yards long, and were for●●…old for three Shillings and six Pence, but 〈◊〉 Five, and Five and Six Pence. Another ●●…dian Stuff, is Chercanneys, it is cheickered ●●…ety of colours, as Red, Yellow, Blue and 〈◊〉 it is a sort of Stuff wears very well in any 〈◊〉 shall think fit to use it for, as Lining of ●●…indow Curtains or Morning Gowns, or Un●●…y Coats, it is about ten yards in a Piece, ●●…e yard wide: It has been sold some time 〈◊〉 thirteen and fourteen Shillings a Piece, but 〈◊〉 about twenty or three and twenty Shillings 〈◊〉: some of this kind holds about sixteen yard's 〈◊〉, and are the same both as to the breadth 〈◊〉 as the former.   

D.  
I shall begin with Dowlas, for the genera●… is of for ordinary Shifts and Shirts for Trade's 〈◊〉 and should have begun with Dowlas from Fra●●… reason it is usually the strongest sort, but tha●… prohibited and forbidden, a Canvas is, it is at 〈◊〉 needless to fill up the Book with unprofitab●●… course, therefore shall proceed with Dowla●… Hamborough. This sort of Hamborough Dowla●… several breadths, as three quarters, three q●●● and one, sixteenth, three quarters and half 〈◊〉 made much like the French, and some in pa●●… is so like, that were it not for the lengths, 〈◊〉 Drapers could not know it from the right Fren●●… the difference is thus, the French holds o●… dread and four els in each piece, and fifty 〈◊〉 half piece: the Hamborough holds fifty four 〈◊〉 whole piece, and twenty seven els in a hal●●… this last wears well, but with these faults 〈◊〉 they never fail of, it wears with prickles or 〈◊〉 and never wears perfectly white as the form 〈◊〉 there is this difference in the folding up of th●… from the Hamborough, the French Dowlas h●●… Selvidges turned in, and after that folded in●●… folds flat, but the Hamborough is rolled up ve●●… and either tacked with Thread, or tied ab●●… Tape. Dimetty being of several sorts, and 〈◊〉 use in our Nation, and being of our Englis●… 〈◊〉 facture, I shall therefore discourse on every particular, and shall begin with the strongel●… is called Pillow Fustian, it is of great us●… Feathers in for Pillows, and is exceeding 〈◊〉 Waistcoats, and for Lining of Breeches, 〈◊〉 will not use them for either, because they th●… ●●…hick, it being double wove; it is about twenty 〈◊〉 long, and almost half ell wide, the courser 〈◊〉 are, they ●…e the narrower and the shorter: The 〈◊〉 sort of Dimetty, is the common sort of plain, 〈◊〉 is usually the same length of the former, but 〈◊〉 are single Wove, and are but half as thick 〈◊〉 former, the finest sort is commonly the ●●…est and longest; there is two sorts of those, 〈◊〉 has a Nap on, and the other sort which is 〈◊〉 the finest without a Nap, and is used only for ●●…ork Beds on, they are the former length and ●…strong, some of the Pillow Fustains are Brown, 〈◊〉 are always died sad colour for men's Frocks, 〈◊〉 there are some of the single died, these are 〈◊〉 to foot flockings with, and to line Breeches; 〈◊〉 is another sort of flowered white, which is used 〈◊〉 for Wast-Coa●…s for Men, and P●…tticoats for Wo●●●● they are made broader than the plain, and if 〈◊〉 are not cut in the working, will wear very well, 〈◊〉 sort is twenty yard long, and are of several Fi●●●●, if you would discern the Cuts that is in them, 〈◊〉 ●…oust look on the wrong side, which you will ●…sewed up again, if there be not, many Cuts it is ●…able, for they cannot cut the Cotten which is on ●●…ght side, without cutting some holes through, ●●…nest of those flowered are the strongest. There ●…ewise one sort more of flowered Dimerty that is 〈◊〉 but thinner and is dearer. I shall now begin 〈◊〉 the stripped, which hath been, and now is in use 〈◊〉 ●…ast-Coats, and Petticoats, for Men and Wo●●● There is of several Stripes, which are gene●●… called by these names, the Common-stripe, ●…ackthread-stripe, and the Vienna-stripe; the ●…mon-stripe, the finer it is, the more Bars it 〈◊〉 the course sort hath not above thirteen or four●●… Barrs, the finest hath about thirty bars, which sort is very fine, and wears much better, both 〈◊〉 lour and wear than the course; the Pack●●… stripe is the sort which is most in fashion, an●… ways the dearest, and not undeservedly, for●… really the strongest of all sorts, both of Flower●… Striped, but is the narrowest of either sort 〈◊〉 Vienna-stripe is a sort that hath some dista●●… twixt the Stripes, but not so much as the Co●●● stripe hath, but is always made much thinne●●… any of the former, and I do believe wears 〈◊〉 worse than any of the former, even worse th●… flowered which I formerly mentioned. There 〈◊〉 sort more which is called stripped Dimetty, it●… Cotten flowered with several sort of coloured 〈◊〉 stripes, but is not properly a Dimetty. The 〈◊〉 that comes under the Letter D. is Diaper, of 〈◊〉 there is several sorts, and at present I shall on●●… course of those sorts which are most useful, th●… is the Diaper which comes from Holland, of 〈◊〉 there are two sorts of work, called Rose and 〈◊〉 the Rose is a small little round work, the Pa●●… little square figure, but both are of equal br●●● and very good colours; they are of several fi●●… which is known usually by the numbers, whic●●… the Hundred, for example, the lowest numb●●… comes is called sixteen hundred, the highe●●… comes is called forty hundred: The way of 〈◊〉 it is, if you agree for the Napkenning, the 〈◊〉 is three times the breadth, and three times the 〈◊〉 it is a sort of Diaper, that not only wears we●●… wears extreme white. There is another 〈◊〉 Diaper called Sleasy-Diaper, which comes from ●●…borough, of which there is several sorts, which 〈◊〉 describe to you in order: And first shall begi●●… Diaper Table , which are Wove into 〈◊〉 and length for Spanish Tables, but of those I ca●●… ●●…mmendation, because they wear very ill, but ●●●ing their breadth being one yard, three quar●●…ing, and the same breadth, are sold the cheapest 〈◊〉 Tabling, they being sold from the Drapers for 〈◊〉 Shillings and four Pence, or three Shillings 〈◊〉 Pence each Tablecloth; as for the sorts of 〈◊〉, there is a sort that may be bought for se●●…llings a Piece, it being twelve yards in length, ●●…ay be hold half a yard short; there is a great 〈◊〉 of this sort sold for Clouts, by reason they are ●●…uery thin and soft, the next is a sort of the 〈◊〉 nature, but they are finer, broader and longer, 〈◊〉 only for Napkins, for a Piece makes a dozen ●●…pkins, and wear much stronger than the other ●●●ly discoursed of. The next is a sort of Sleasie●●…, which is the finest sort of all that comes 〈◊〉 Hamborough, that is as fine as fine Holland●●…, they are in suits, as I should have told you, 〈◊〉 former are, for two pieces of Napkens is as 〈◊〉 a Piece of Tabling, the Piece of Tabling ●●…eight yards, and something more, it holding 〈◊〉 a quarter over, sometimes half a yard: But ●●…est of all is twelve yards in a Piece of Tabling, 〈◊〉 every Piece of this Tabling, there is two 〈◊〉 of this Napkins to complete a suit, it being ve●●… and wears very genteel and well, and very 〈◊〉 the whole suit is generally sold at the best 〈◊〉 three Pound ten, or three Pounds twelve 〈◊〉 per suit, which is not above three Shillings ●●…ce a yard Tabling, and fourteen Pence the 〈◊〉, but is as fine as the Holland-Diaper of two 〈◊〉, and six Shillings, as is of the same figure, 〈◊〉 People can know it from the right Holland- 〈◊〉 when washed. There is one sort more of this 〈◊〉 that is of the same figure, of the French-Dia●●…nd is so like, that few people can hardly know it from the right, unless it were compared 〈◊〉 The next is a sort of Diaper made in Engl●●● very strong, called Huckaback, There is 〈◊〉 lengths in each Piece, both Tabling and 〈◊〉 there is of the Napkins from nine Pence 〈◊〉 ling the yard, the widest of the Tabling 〈◊〉 ceeding two yards wide, and the narrowe●… 〈◊〉 and half. There is other sorts of Diape●●… from Holland and Hamborough, being wro●●… very pretty figures, and is proper only 〈◊〉 Coats, Waistcoats or Breeches for Men, th●●… being white Thread, and the Flower is bro●●● that which comes from Holland is broader, 〈◊〉 stronger than the other, and is much deare●●… 〈◊〉 Hamborough is not worth above 18 d. at 〈◊〉 the Holland is sold for 2 s. it is extraordina●●… for Beds or Hang for Rooms: The●… 〈◊〉 Tabling of this. There is Diapers come 〈◊〉 land to England which are of various fig●●… wears as well as any Diaper whatever, and 〈◊〉 than sleazy, but not so dear as the He 〈◊〉 Works are much like the sleazy, but th●… 〈◊〉 much thicker and stronger; there is som●… 〈◊〉 fine, and of the same work of the Hollan●… 〈◊〉 both fine and course, in two or three 〈◊〉 washes as white as Holland-Diaper, if wa●… There is another sort comes from Scotlan●… not easily known from Irish●… Diaper, but 〈◊〉 difference, it wears like damaged Cloth 〈◊〉 mere, for in a sew washes it wears to pieces 〈◊〉 always over-whited, and never wears we 〈◊〉 you buy it brown or half whited, and if 〈◊〉 brown, it never wears white till it is 〈◊〉 There is other sorts of Diaper comes from 〈◊〉 Indies, and is called Callico-Diaper, it is ca●●… 〈◊〉 reason it is made of Cotton, as the Callicoes●… 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 into little figures, there is several bredths ●●…ss, the narrow sort is about three quarters, 〈◊〉 widest sort is yard and half wide, it is ex●●…hite, and wears very well for several uses, 〈◊〉 most decent wear that any Man or Wo●●… near for Waste Coats or Petticoats. There 〈◊〉 Callico-Dimerty, which is for breadth and ●●●octly the same, but is Wove with a Wale ●●●in Dimetty, and is likewise made of Cot●●… for whiteness and use is full as good as the 〈◊〉 and of the two is most worn.  
〈◊〉 now come to speak of Damask, it commen●●… the Letter D. It is a very fine sort of fine 〈◊〉 and is wrought into several sorts of fine 〈◊〉 and Figures, of Stories taken out of Scrip●●… is for few uses except for Table-Linnen, 〈◊〉 Table-Cloths and Napkins; that for Table- 〈◊〉 broader than any sort of Linen for that 〈◊〉 the Napkins is always made one third of 〈◊〉, and as I have given you advice in the 〈◊〉 so you may observe in this, the Tabling be●●… times as broad, ●…is three times the price, ●●…ne and white that the King hath nothing Bet●●… his Table; but of these there is two sorts, 〈◊〉 and Sleasie-Damask, as for the Holland-Da●●… have in this side described, but for the 〈◊〉 it is not so fine nor of such curious works as ●●●er, it being usually wrought all in Flowers, 〈◊〉 this farther difference, that it will not wear 〈◊〉 after washed, as the Holland-Damask doth, 〈◊〉 is the Tabling or Napkin so broad as the 〈◊〉, but it is always bought much cheaper. There 〈◊〉 sort more of Damask that comes from the In●●…ade of Silk, which commonly is used for fine 〈◊〉 and makes very rich Gowns for Ladies, and 〈◊〉 Petticoats, it is a Rich, strong Silk, and wears very well for an Indian Silk, it is w●… with variety of colours, which is very fine 〈◊〉 about half yard and nail wide, and contains 〈◊〉 fifteen yards in each piece.  
The next is a sort of Derriband, it being a 〈◊〉 of little use, and therefore I shall be very 〈◊〉 in my Discourse of those Derribands; there 〈◊〉 sorts known by these two names, large Derr●●●and small, the large are about yard wide, th●… is but three quarters wide, the large is eig●… yards long, the small are about twelve yards: 〈◊〉 sort of calico that is very yellow, and wea●… worst of any calico that at present is in use, 〈◊〉 most use it is for, is dying, it will take a very●… die for any colour, and is proper for Lining ●…ny things, which otherwise is fit for nothing. 〈◊〉 garees is another sort of calico which is cours●… something whiter than the former, yet not s●… but is much stronger than the Derribands, it i●… for Shifts for ordinary People, and for Lini●… many things, and many Pieces are Died and p●… with coloured Flowers. I shall come now to 〈◊〉 of Stripped Muslings which gins with D. it 〈◊〉 called Doreas, it being a Muzzling that is a ya●… quarter broad, and the broadest sorts of stri●… any Muzzling, and usually the courselst and chea●… any sort, it wears but indifferent well, but i●… white.   

E.  
The next sort of Commodity is Elat●…his it 〈◊〉 a●… Indian Silk stripped with variety of colours 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 with very modest colours, it is usually for ●…s, and contains just the quantity for a Woman's 〈◊〉, and wears very well.   

F.  
●…all begin with Flaxens, of which there is seve●…ts, but for brevity's sake, I shall speak only of 〈◊〉 that are the most usesul at present, and shall be●…ith English Flaxen, because it is made in our ●…e Country, of which there is several bredths, 〈◊〉 broadest of it being yard and half wide, too 〈◊〉 for two bredths in a Sheet, and two narrow ●…e breadth in a Sheet, therefore is only proper ●…able-Cloths, it is wonderfully strong, and al●…h it is not extreme white at first, yet in a few ●…gs becomes as white as any sort of Holland 〈◊〉 doth not exceed two shillings six pence the ●…his sort comes out of Lancashire, as doth the ●…other sorts I am going to treat of. The next ●…wide, which is the breadth for Shifts, for a mo●…fize body, but for a lusty Woman it is too nar●…nt is wide enough for any Man, and wears as 〈◊〉 the former, it is not so fine of the price as 〈◊〉 other Linens are, but what it wants in the 〈◊〉 you have completed in the strength: if it be ●…ing white before you buy it, you may be assu●… will in a few washings be very white. The ●…redth is the only proper breadth for both Men 〈◊〉 Women for Shifts, it being full three quarters 〈◊〉 and is full as serviceable as the former, and is 〈◊〉 alike for whiteness, there is much a greater ●…ity sold of this than of the former, by reason ●…edth fits both Men and Women for Shifts, bet●…an the former. The fourth and narrowest breadth 〈◊〉 I am going to treat of, is but half ell wide, and is proper only for Children, by reaso●… breadth. I shall not give you any other descri●… this, only say, that it is in wear every way 〈◊〉 former sorts of Flaxen that I have wrote of, 〈◊〉 say this more, that if you can contrive the b●… be convenient for Shee●…s, it is the strong 〈◊〉 Linen now in being for that use or purpose. 〈◊〉 is other Flaxens of several bredths which co●… of Ireland, and of several sorts, but I shall 〈◊〉 the most useful of them, and shall begin 〈◊〉 broadest, which I have seen three yard's wi●… very fine, and very strong, but this althou●… useful both for Sheets and Table , yet 〈◊〉 commonly made use of. There is another so●… where the former is made, within, or about ●…ty of Dublin, which is made of the same Fla●… former, and is as strong in wear as our Flaxe●… the Alcomore-holland, and wears as white o●… than either, there is some of the same ser●… three quarters wide, and yard wide, all ma●… same nature and strength. There is other 〈◊〉 side those made in the North of Ireland, so●… wide, some three quarters, and some half el●… are of great use for Shirts and Shifts, and w●… white and strong, but not so strong as the 〈◊〉 made in and about Dublin, and are very u●… other uses. Fry Burgures are a sort of Slea●… nen which comes from Germany or Hamborou●… about yard wide, it is an ordinary Cloth, a●… and wears very ill, but is white for some 〈◊〉 hath been worn very much for several use 〈◊〉 Country, and particularly for Aprons, till t●… the experience of the wear, but since they 〈◊〉 other  much more commodious for th●… vice▪ this sort holds forty els the whole Pie●… twenty els the half Piece. I shall now 〈◊〉 ●…lland, which is the strongest and best colour 〈◊〉 Holland of that fineness, it being a Holland ●…sually half a quarter wider than the other ●…hich are commonly called Freeze, but are not 〈◊〉 this sort is usually known by the breadth and ●…hness, for if it be right Freeze, it is not so ●…eded to the Eye, nor wrought quite so thick 〈◊〉 of the others, nor to any one's liking half so 〈◊〉 by reason there appears oftentimes thin 〈◊〉 it, and that it because it is not Callendred, ●…kned as other  that I shall speak of ●…er, but is just as it comes from thee Whitster, 〈◊〉 any of the least deceit; to know this Cloth ●…lain, it is usually above twenty nine, or be●… that and thirty four els long at the most, it ●…rally made up long folded, and hath always ●…ting strings on at both ends. I have at large ●…sed on this, by reason those that have had the 〈◊〉 will if they can get it, be unwill●…ng to wear 〈◊〉 this sort of Cloth is but scarce to be had, by 〈◊〉 it is not near so fine of the price, by reason 〈◊〉 breadth and strength, and therefore few Dra●…ill buy it, lest they should not sell it to any ●…age, or at least may lie ●…y them some consi●…e time before it is sold, 〈◊〉 ●…ther  being 〈◊〉 the sight, sell quickly 〈◊〉 ●●…vantage.   

G.  
●…re being a great many sorts of Cloth comes 〈◊〉 this Character, but as I have said before, I 〈◊〉 for brevity's sake, treat only of the most use●…s in this Nation, and if what I shall treat of 〈◊〉 be found acceptable, I shall enlarge hereafter ●…se I shall now omit, and pass by of each Let●●… Gulix being the finest fort I shall discourse of on this Letter, and of as great and general 〈◊〉 all Persons of Quality, and Gentry of any Q●… I shall therefore begin with that, it being th●… proper of any for fine Shifts or Sheets, and to 〈◊〉 most, explain it to all capacities, it is a Cl●… Yard wide if fairly measured, but by deceit o●… in Measuring the breadth of Linen Measur●… three quarters of an Ell for a Yard, and 〈◊〉 means makes it appear to be Yard and Nail●… but as I said before, is bust just Yard wide, the of fine Cloth, the strongest except true Fr●… any fine Cloth, they are if well made, very eve●… very thick, and of all Cloth the whitest excep●… Holland, but is not so fine of the price as a Ba●… much stronger; there is of this sort of Holl●… most prices, from two shillings and six pence, 〈◊〉 teen shillings the Ell, it contains in the Piece●… twenty nine els to thirty one or there abouts, 〈◊〉 you as near as I can, an account of the lengt●… prevent your buying a sort of Holland w●… small thread, which if well made are scarcely 〈◊〉 known from Gulix but by the breadth and lengt●… Small Thread being not quite so broad if fairly 〈◊〉 pared and measur●●… and but in length betwi●… venteen and nineveh els, and is of no servi●… I shall observe to you in the Letter S. you m●… you desire to see the length of either sort, 〈◊〉 Ticket tied on to the side of the Cloth whe●… white-strings are cut off; the Holland called 〈◊〉 is not so fine by much of the price as a Small 〈◊〉 is, but wears full as long again as doth a 〈◊〉 Thread; there is another sort of Gulix, which 〈◊〉 cut into half Pieces, and is done up in blue Pa●…●…eing folded double, and in my observations, 〈◊〉 count this to wear the best of the two sor●…s; 〈◊〉 sort being cut in the middle, is generally half●… ●…h of this sort of Cloth, they are very finely ●…ed, and is not quite so thick and harsh thread●…er it is washed as before, but is soft; and not●…nd●…ng thick enough to wear very well, be●… it is even threaded▪ and the reason it grows 〈◊〉 in the wa●…h is, because when it is whited, ●…t wetting▪ it is wrenched out of a Pap as the 〈◊〉 call it, it thicken the Cloth, which they do ●…fine Cloth, except the right Friz●…, for which 〈◊〉 the Friz●… is thicker after it is washed by much 〈◊〉 before; notwithstanding all which, the Galix 〈◊〉 extraordinary well if it be not thin and ill 〈◊〉 which will appear in the middle of the Cloth, 〈◊〉 well observe it. The next for its general use ●…ts holland, or as we commonly call it Gentish●…d, the name of it is derived fro●… Gaunt in Flan●… of these there are several sorts and bredths, of 〈◊〉 shall discourse one after another in their pla●…he first of these being Ell-wide of which there 〈◊〉 for●…s of whiting; the first and best colou●… is ●…ders-white, which is very white, without much 〈◊〉 it, it commonly wears very well if not over 〈◊〉, it is crelled, and hath whiting strings to it ●…h sides, and is usually the finest sort; the next 〈◊〉 Holland-whiting, this whiting is always much 〈◊〉 and blewed, and if much stiffened, and is very 〈◊〉 hath lain long in it, it certainly wears ill, and ●…xst wears ost●…er ill than well; it is made up ●…ded, and hath the whiting ●…rings at one end; 〈◊〉 the same length of the former of this sort, 〈◊〉 is in length about forty els in 〈◊〉 Piece, and is ●…mes divided for conveniency into half Pieces, 〈◊〉 is but twenty els; there is the third fort of 〈◊〉 which is whited in England, this sort wears 〈◊〉 better than, the last mentioned, but with this ●…ce, that it seldom or never wears white, because our Climate is not ho●… enough to wh●… thick a Cloth, as it usually is for it being so thi●… is often frets and wears ill, being Wove so ex●… thick, that it frets in the ●…easts under Men 〈◊〉 men's , this sort ha●…h ●…o●…strings to w●… by but our way of whitening is to stake Lin●… the Ground on the Grass: They in Holland and ●…ders white it on Sand. This being the last sort 〈◊〉 broad Gentish that I shall treat of at present; 〈◊〉 come next to the Yard wide, and give you 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 and demonstrate 〈◊〉 you each sort 〈◊〉 due place, which is as followeth; of the Yar●… there is as of the Ell wide, three several s●… whiting, the first and best whiting, both for 〈◊〉 and whiting, is the Flanders whiting, whi●… esteem to be both whiter and stronger than any●… of this breadth, though I must confess, as in t●… mer whiting I have said, that there is in th●… some Pap or Pulse, which, although it mak●… Cloth to appear very thick, yet it does not pre●… the Cloth for wear, but adds to the whiteness colour, although when it is washed out, the 〈◊〉 f●●…ls thinner and softer to the hand, but wear●… the worse; the second and next to it, is the H●… whiting which is both stiffen●…d and blewed 〈◊〉 more than the former, by which reason it is pro●… that the blue if lain long in the Cloth, is ve●… ni●…io●●… to the Thread, and makes it wear ill, 〈◊〉 to your appearance it is very thick and strong 〈◊〉 next and last sort of Gants-Holland, is a sort 〈◊〉 same bre●…th, but whited in England, and alth●… is not brought to that perfection of whitin●… wears far stronger than 〈◊〉 two-former: t●… difference in the length, the two former 〈◊〉 about ●…eventy els, not much different over or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 have strings on●… one side, the latter h●… ●…gs, and is about forty els or thereabouts, not 〈◊〉 under nor much exceeding that quantity●… this ●…less it be well whited▪ will not wear white▪ 〈◊〉 well whited will wear white enough for com●…sifts The next is Garl●●…s, whereof there are 〈◊〉 sorts, and because they are useful in our ●…dom, I shall treat of them all as near as I can ●… brevity, unless 〈◊〉 should outrun my designed 〈◊〉. I shall therefore begin with the Ell-broad, 〈◊〉 which there is two sorts of whiting the first is a 〈◊〉 whiting, this sort notwithstanding its blewness, ●…s as well as any if even and thick; this sort ha●●…●…gs at the end, and is folded double, this sort is 〈◊〉 finer of the price than a Genti●…h, but wears 〈◊〉 thinner. There is another sort of E●…l-wid●…●…lits, which is of a browner whiting, which sel●… or never wears white, but if thick and well ●…e wears very well, but if thin it wears very ill, 〈◊〉 notwithstanding is good for Dying, for ●…lews, 〈◊〉 for Linens. The next sort of this Linen is Yard▪ 〈◊〉, of which there is several length, as well as ●…urs, the first sort is of a blue stiff colo●…, it holds ●…ty els in the Piece, it is generally well made, 〈◊〉 if so, it wears as well as the former; it hath ●…ting strings at the end, is used for Shirts and ●…s, and Aprons. The next of this breadth, is of 〈◊〉 same length, but is not so stiff and so blue as the ●…ner, yet wears as well as it doth, this hath no ●…ings to it: there is another sort very thin, but if it ●…nce to be as thick as the former, will not wear ●…r so well as it will, by reason it is made of more ●…fie thread than the former is, and is fit or proper ●…ly for Dying or Glazing; this sort often holds 2●…●…s in a Piece, but sometimes holds but 20 Yards 〈◊〉 Piece. There is one sort more holds but 16 els 〈◊〉 a Piece, this wears usually very well, and is of a pretty white colour, and hath no strings to i●… is another sort that is three quarters and hal●… which is thick, it wears well, though not so 〈◊〉 Flaxens of the same breadth by far, but wears 〈◊〉 than it doth. There are several sorts of three q●… breadth, some fine, some coarse, but the fine●… the best, but the coarse is made of bad Fla●… wears ill, and is only prope●… for Dying for 〈◊〉 flight uses, there are several sorts of three q●… wide; but those I have spoke of at present m●…●…ice, for should I speak to every sort in part●… I should exceed my designed limits. There a●… sides all these, several sorts of brown Garlits, 〈◊〉 are bought for whiting, but these that are wh●… England wear stronger than any of the other●… never wear white, but of a black grain, an●… is others that are bought for dying, which a●… proper for whiting. I shall now begin with a 〈◊〉 called Gingams, it is a sort of calico, for its u●… service I shall not omit to name, because it fal●…●…der this Letter, and is of general use, first for 〈◊〉 and Shirts, as it is for several uses, it is a 〈◊〉 yard and half wide, of which there are two sort●… one is double threaded both ways, the second 〈◊〉 double threaded one way, that which is 〈◊〉 threaded both ways is forty yards in a Piece, it 〈◊〉 exceeding white, if washed by itself from other 〈◊〉 ●…●●●.   

H.  
I shall begin with a calico called Hummun●… being a calico something above yard and half 〈◊〉 there is fine and corpse, the fine is generally use 〈◊〉 stitching and flowering, the coarse is only prop●… Linen, by reason it is not on●●… corpse but yello●… ●…welve yards and a half in the Piece, but is ●…in buying but for twelve yards, the half be●…ed for measure to those that retale them. ●…allico that neither wears white nor strong, ●…er of the price than any calico considering ●…h. The next of this Letter being Linen, ●…emp Roles, it is always brought into Eng●…n, and is a strong corpse Linen, yard wide, ●…hen whited very good for Sheets for Poor 〈◊〉 and is often bought by the Poor People for 〈◊〉 and although not very thick, it wears admi●…ong, there is much of it used brown for or●…ainting▪ The next is Hammils, a sort of 〈◊〉 Cloth, there is of this two sorts, Flaxen and 〈◊〉 the first and finest of this sort is often used ●…ers Shirts, and for Napkins, and often be●… three bredths in a Sheet, is very good and ●…or that use▪ the Hempen is likewise used for 〈◊〉 Sheets for Poor People, and for Towels, ●…m weam so well as the finest, it is almost ●…arters wide; there is another sort finer than 〈◊〉 of these, but doth not wear near so well as ●…f these, it is thinner and of the same breadth, ●…d Herford.  
●…ext sort of Linen comprehended under this 〈◊〉 called▪ Hockingfielders, of which there are 〈◊〉, broad and narrow, the broad is of great ●…e instead of Canvas, for Sheeting, but wears 〈◊〉 so well as right Canvas doth, but when it 〈◊〉 the Water grows much thinner than before, ●…on it is stif●…ed after whiting; the other sort 〈◊〉 yard wide, and by reason of its contrary 〈◊〉 of little use in this Country, it is a Cloth ●…es out of Germany, it is a Cloth so like Can●…en Callend●…ed, that few or none can know it, ●…e that use to Trade in it from the right; this shall not last above five or six years, the Ca●… wear eleven or twelve years in constant 〈◊〉 may know the right from the wrong b●… wrong is made up crested when they come 〈◊〉 is two half Pieces made up in one: it co●… els in a half Piece, but when Callendred 〈◊〉 long solded, and are but twenty els in a 〈◊〉 for the right, it hath often in a whole piece●… is Calendred fifty, sixty, seventy, eighty 〈◊〉 odd measure in a piece, and when Callend●●… cut them into thirty or forty els in a piee●… of no certain length as the other is, and wears much whiter than the wrong doth▪ 〈◊〉 of this Letter is Huckaback-Diaper, it is so●… part made in Lancashire, it is a very strom●… and wears very white, but is made all of 〈◊〉 the finest that is made doth not exceed 18 〈◊〉 or the Napkin, and if the Tabling be th●… the breadth of the same fineness, it is above th●… the price, by reason it is more difficult to 〈◊〉   

I.  
There are not many sorts of Linen falls 〈◊〉 Letter, but I begin with the Indian Ge●… and that is Izarees, it is a calico made e●… yards long, and is Wove double threaded b●… it is yard half quarter wide, it is the strong 〈◊〉 calico that is made, and is the finest tha●… double threaded; it is extremely worn by G●… Shifts, when to be gotten as it is the stro●… dearest of calico, for it is the whitest of all 〈◊〉 it hath been formerly sold for 16 d. and yard the finest, but by reason of its ●…om●… and great use, it is very scarce, and for th●… is grown very dear, and is at this time s●… 〈◊〉 which is 32 ●…. per piece, and but little to be 〈◊〉 that rate, which I believe is at this time ve●●…t to be had, if you would give any price for 〈◊〉 sort of this Letter is Ind●…r●●●s▪ which 〈◊〉 Cloth of 〈◊〉 great use in this Town, only 〈◊〉 Towels, it is a course narrow Cloth which 〈◊〉 Hamborough, it is bate half yard wide, ●…ins about sixty, seventy, or eighty yards in 〈◊〉 is most used in the Country, and is sold to 〈◊〉 Shop Keepers▪ As to its wear it wears ill, 〈◊〉 very thick, which th●●…k 〈◊〉 cau●●… it to 〈◊〉 by reason it is m●●● of the wo●●… of 〈◊〉 ●…der the Letter ●…, I think it necessary to give ●…structions concerning Indian Dimetties, I ●…iscoursed something on the same before, but 〈◊〉 full: There is of this three sorts of bredths, ●…west is three quarters wide, the ●…exd is ●…o●…d, the third br●●● is yard and half wide ●…y being made of Cotton, and so well twist●…ve, that they wear as well as any Lin●●●; 〈◊〉 be properly worn for Shirts and Shifts, 〈◊〉 any person made trial of, he would scarcely 〈◊〉 of any other by reason of their duration ●…ness: besides the addition it would be to ●…alth; for if calico be a healthy wear, this ●…etter than calico, for it is warmer, and is 〈◊〉 the same sort of Cotton, and is stronger 〈◊〉 ●…arees, notwithstanding its great strength, ●…rally wa●●●●● whiter than any 〈◊〉: this ●…ime●…ty is always ten yards in a piece, and 〈◊〉 calico Diaper of the same length, for they ●…thing the one from the other, but in the   

K.  
There are but few so●●… of Cloth come 〈◊〉 ●●…tter K only a sort of Cloth which we 〈◊〉 land called Kentings, but are called by al●… other Countries sleazy Lawns, and are so 〈◊〉 Linen Drapers here, of which there are th●●… sorts, and by reason it is not the proper Le●… fall under, I shall omit the explanation of 〈◊〉 this place, and shall refer you to the Let●… the more plain instructions of this sort of C●… there fore shall pass on to the he●●…r L.   

L.  
I shall begin with Linsey Woolsey, by re●… our own native Manufacture, there are of thi●… sorts of colours and ●●…ed ●●… but I shall only 〈◊〉 those which are sold by Linen Drapers, 〈◊〉 there are two sorts ●…law and Green, the Ble●… the more generally used, and they being b●… a line, therefore in treating of one will be i●… on's for both; I shall therefore speak of t●… you shall see whether it be well covered 〈◊〉 Woollen, so that the Linen can hardly be se●… if you can partly see th●… Linen that is not 〈◊〉vered, but is thin, and wears not well; be you observe i●… it be a deep and even d●…e, places are whiter than others, than those p●… not so well covered as the rest, neither will 〈◊〉 either well or of a good colour; the same 〈◊〉 observe in the Green.  
I shall now speak of what Indian Goods co●… der this Letter, and shall begin with Long because it is the most useful that falls 〈◊〉 ●…er; it is so called by reason of its great 〈◊〉 it being usually thirty eight or forty yards in 〈◊〉 and is about yard half quarter wide, of ●…ere is two forts, fine and corpse, the corpse ●…oper for Linen of several things, the fine is ●…ed for Shirts, Shifts, and often for stitching 〈◊〉- Coats and Waistcoats, both for Men and 〈◊〉 and is both white and thick, though but ●…read, the Price at this time is uncertain, by 〈◊〉 of an extraordinary rise of Indian Goods in 〈◊〉 but the price formerly for the coarse, used ●…bout Eight Pence the Yard, or Nine Pence 〈◊〉 and the finest sort used to be for Fourteen 〈◊〉 and at most for Sixteen Pence, and at this 〈◊〉 much dearer, and is seared will be dearer 〈◊〉 is of this sort comes over Frown, which is ●…dying into sad colour and blues, but those that 〈◊〉 the Indies ready died blue, are much the 〈◊〉 they never lose the colour in washing as the ●…dye doth: you may know the English-dye ●…ndian by the colours, for the Indian-dye is ●…er died than the English, for the English 〈◊〉 and dark ●…pots in it, and there is of the ●…ften comes damaged, this you may know ●…ains you will see in it, and therefore if ●…ny stains in it, try it with your finger, and ●…maged your finger will tear a hole in it with 〈◊〉 by that you may be sure it is damaged: 〈◊〉 try any sort of Calicoes or Linens the 〈◊〉, where you see any stain is in the Cloth. 〈◊〉 another sort of Indian thing called Longees, 〈◊〉 is made of the same stuff your Grass Tasteties 〈◊〉 which I shall speak hereafter, but with this 〈◊〉 this sort is wore with variety of colours, 〈◊〉, and some wrought with flowers in the 〈◊〉 the check, this is made of an Indian Grass or Herb, from whence comes the name of 〈◊〉 Herba; they contain ten yards in each piece 〈◊〉 proper only for slight uses, as Linen of Be●… for Window Curta●…ns, they wear very 〈◊〉 thin, being much stiffened, they feel pretty 〈◊〉 fore they are worn or washed, but after eith●… are like a Rag.  
There is a corpse sort of Cloth called Letti●… it is a corpse narrow sort of Cloth for Towels 〈◊〉 is seldom enquired for, there being better 〈◊〉 that purpose.  
There is one sort more I shall not omit 〈◊〉 mention of in this letter, by reason it takes 〈◊〉 beginning of one name with the letter L. it bein●… Lawns, and by reason it is usually called sleazy. I shall only treat of it in part here, and p●… letter S. because it gins with S. being called 〈◊〉 Lawns, the name Sleasia it takes from a To●… Sleasia in Germany: these Lawns are of two b●… the one is just the breadth of a Cambric, 〈◊〉 three quarters and half quarter broad, if it 〈◊〉 and well made, it is very strong, and we●… well, but if thin and uneven, it wears very 〈◊〉 it seldom or never wears very white, and n●●…standing it often wears very yellow; there is 〈◊〉 sort three quarters wide, which is made of th●… thread, and the same make, and of the same 〈◊〉 in every respect as the former: is be sure yo●… buy any of them yellow at first, for if you do●… always not only wear yellow, but very ill, but can get those that are of a clear white, withou●… ning, and those if well made will wear the whit●… strongest of any sort. I shall leave you to the 〈◊〉 S. for farther Instructions, and therefore shal●… from treating any farther on this Cloth 〈◊〉 place.   

M.  
〈◊〉 Letter that comes Alphabetically under 〈◊〉 is M, and shall begin with Indian Goods, 〈◊〉 there are several under this letter, but I 〈◊〉 only of the most useful here, of which Mo●●… this is a calico extremely in use in 〈◊〉 Work, for Petticoats and Waste-Coats, ●…ing, Quilting or Embroidering, it is of se●…eness, and is yard, quarter and half quarter 〈◊〉 is as white, fine and even as any calico, 〈◊〉 comparable to other calico for the wear ●…lly as fine of the price and breadth as any, ●…m dious for many other uses, a Linner 〈◊〉 and for Curtains for Beds and Windows, ●…es have no great occasion for strength: but ●…advise no one to use them for Shifts or Shirts, ●…s time many do, for they wear like dirt in ●…on to the double threaded, there is often●●… them damaged, that you may perceive, if 〈◊〉 any stains in them, or if they look yellow, 〈◊〉 limber, it is a sign they have been washed 〈◊〉 damage; for the same are stiff in the Piece, ●…thred feels harsher and firmer than the former: ●…ico is known by its length as well as by its 〈◊〉 it holds a contrary length to any other, for 〈◊〉 over just nine yards in length only, a little 〈◊〉 for the Retaler, which is something above 〈◊〉 of a yard in each piece.  
●…xt is Mulm●…ls, it is a sort of Muslins used 〈◊〉 uses in this Nation, but I cannot in the 〈◊〉 it any commendation, for there is not one 〈◊〉 in it, in my Judgement, that is praise wor●●… the first place it is always very thin, the next ●…generally frayed, and it not only wears extraordinary ill, but when washed two or three 〈◊〉 wears very yellow, although when you bu●… they are often to the view very white; it i●… commonly sold by Hawkers and Pedlars, be●… finest of the price of any Muslen, but in the 〈◊〉 perfect Cheat; this Muslen holds always 〈◊〉 yards in, a piece, as doth many sorts of Musle●… is usally one yard broad, or as we ●…all it, 〈◊〉 half quarter wide, you can know it no wa●… the thinness, it deserves neither Time nor P●… be bestowed on it, therefore I shall desist.  
I shall go on to an ●…n●…ian thing called Mo●… nies, for the service of which it may go hand i●… with the last mentioned, it is a sort of Callio●… 〈◊〉 is stripped sometimes, with yellow Gotten, and 〈◊〉 times with yellow Silk, it is sit only for Li●… Beds and for Window Curtains, for which 〈◊〉 looks very well, but wears very ill in any use 〈◊〉 any or the least strength is required; those t●… of it must look it narrowly over, lest there sho●… holes in it before they buy it, for there is 〈◊〉 any comes over, but what hath many slits i●… it is above yard wide, and holds ten yards in 〈◊〉 it no more deserves to be treated of than the 〈◊〉 and therefore I shall go on to the next letter.   

N.  
There being not many sorts which begi●… this letter, I shall therefore begin with some●… thing which is called Nilleys, of which there 〈◊〉 sorts, stripped and plain, by the Buyers are 〈◊〉 Bengalls, because they come from the Bay 〈◊〉 gall; they are yard half quarter broad, and 〈◊〉 contain ten yards in each piece, but the India●… now grown as great Cheats as other Country's 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 to falsify every thing, and for this Stuff, 〈◊〉 it sometimes a yard, and usually half a yard ●…ter than it used to be, for it used to contain ten ●…pwards, it is of much use for Gowns and Petty●●…, but does shrink in wearing unreasonably, they ●…ery fine stripes, but are of no great use or ser●●… the plain are generally for Dying, and those 〈◊〉 Dyed are only useful for Linings of Men and ●…ens , but many sorts of Linen is much 〈◊〉 proper than this, by reason of its little service, 〈◊〉 greater in conveniency attends it, that it 〈◊〉 much, and by that means often spoils a Gar●●…. There is of this sort variety of plain mixed ●…s which are very proper for Mantua's for Wo●●… and of late years hath been much used by Gen●●…. The next sorts are Neckcloaths for Men, of 〈◊〉 there are several lengths and fineness: as to this 〈◊〉 all the direction that can be given as to the un●…ding of those is, that you must buy the thick●●… harshest threaded, and not those that are thin 〈◊〉, and uneven, they usually hold sixteen in a 〈◊〉 there is one sort Ell long, another sort is one 〈◊〉 and a half, long, another length is two yard's 〈◊〉 there is another sort that comes from Holland, ●…de of Cambric, those wear much better and 〈◊〉 than the former; there is of the same lengths ●…edths as those from the Indies. There is one ●…ore which co●…es from Hamborough, these are 〈◊〉 of Kenting thread, and stripped at the end 〈◊〉 former, but wear very yellow and rough, 〈◊〉 they always look dirty after you have worn 〈◊〉 you can hardly know them from Cambric ●…oths, only by this observation, that the Cam●●… are broader, and not so much blued as they 〈◊〉 there is besides these a sort of Linen called ●…dge Linen, which if the right, wares very well, but not so well as the true Alcomore H●… but is so like it, that for breadth, length and 〈◊〉 it is so much like it, that many knowing Dra●… not know one from the other, but only by S●… Ma●…k, it wears whiter than the Alcomore.   

O.  
The next Letter is O, of which Letter 〈◊〉 but few Linens that is used in this Town, 〈◊〉 for its general use begin with O●…nbrucks, 〈◊〉 of more use than any one sort of coarse Li●… England, the white is very much used for Shi●… Shifts, the brown for Painting; it is a sort of 〈◊〉 not too much whitened, and is thick after whi●… even threaded, wears well for any use that 〈◊〉 per for, as for Sheets, to put ●…hree bred this in 〈◊〉 they look very fi●…e of the Price, and wea●… than a Hocking fielder; as for the brown, i●… good for Dying blue, either for Aprons, or 〈◊〉 men's Shirts, it wears for either use very 〈◊〉 There is one sort of Indian Goods which be●… with the same Letter, which is called Orin●●…tilies, it is thicker than a M●…sling, and not 〈◊〉 thick as a calico, it is abo●…t yard half quart●… and twelve yards long, it is much used for 〈◊〉 Cravats, and is the best thing for that purpo●… can be gotten, and wears very well for that 〈◊〉 hath been formerly used for Hoods for Wom●… by reason that of late it hath been very scar●… have made use of other things in the place of 〈◊〉   

P.  
Few sorts of Linen come under this lette●… fore I shall begin with something from Indi●… ●…ed Putcays, of which there is two sorts, one 〈◊〉 quarters wide, the other almost yard wide, ●…idest is of the same length of the coarse, but 〈◊〉 this difference, is finer than the narrow, it is a 〈◊〉 corpse calico the finest, but if thick, wears 〈◊〉 well for ordinary Linens for several uses, they 〈◊〉 usually seven yards in a piece, and are made up 〈◊〉 square like a Book, and is but of an ordinary 〈◊〉 to other calico. The next sort beginning 〈◊〉 P, is a sort of fine calico called Percallis, 〈◊〉 being of it two sorts, the one is much like ●…poires, and is made up much like it, and is ●…lf the length; the next is made up like a Book; 〈◊〉 sorts are indifferent fine, and are fit and much 〈◊〉 for Shifts and Shirts, but the Book-Percallis is ●…ongest, both these forts are one yard half quar●…de, and are eight yards long, and if the Sleeve ●…en out of the breadth, a Piece will make three 〈◊〉, it is likewise very useful for Stitching and ●…ing, and if well washed washes very white, it ●…h of the nature of Sallampoires, but of that I ●…peak of in its letter, which is S. The next In●●… thing is a Silk called Paunchi, it is a sort of ●…hich is about half yard wide, and ten yard's 〈◊〉 it wears very well for Linings of men's Coats, ●…me other certain uses, but it being of no gene●●… I shall not farther insist on it; there is a sorn 〈◊〉 of the same nature, both for breadth and length, ●…lled Gelongs, it hath a few flowers up and down 〈◊〉 but they are some space distance one from the 〈◊〉, if either of those are Died, they wear gre●●●●●…ersian Taffeta. I had not mentioned the Ge●●… here, but that I omitted it in its Alphabet, 〈◊〉 is of both comes over white, and these are 〈◊〉 into colours, but if you buy colours, choose 〈◊〉 that come ready Dyed. There is one sort of Indian Silk more, called Persian Silk, or Persia●… fety, which of all Silks that comes from the E●… dies, is of most use, of which there is abu●… used here; it is the strongest Silk that comes 〈◊〉 and is proper for most uses; as for Linen of●… for Gowns and Petticoats, and Linings of●… Coats; there is of it white, but the white 〈◊〉 ever known to be of good white, therefore the●… are always Died into all forts of Colours; a●… sides, there is of all sorts of colours comes, th●… Dyed in the Raw Silk, before they are wove, 〈◊〉 will have those that are, and will wear of 〈◊〉 gloss, buy those that you are sure are Died 〈◊〉 they come over, for those that are Died afte●… come over, do most certainly wear dull and g●… and in spots; there is of those Persians 〈◊〉 lengths, the shortest holds ten yards, the n●… yards, the next holds o yards, the next ho●… yards, and seldom any longer; it is yard half 〈◊〉 wide, but when they are Died they hold no●… yard wide, for they shrink both in breadth and le●… Dying; the sure to know those that come over●… which are the best, is to observe the ends, 〈◊〉 you will find some white wove in, and by th●… will find they are not Dyed here, or if bot●… be cut, you will fine a thread of white wove int●… side, whereby you may know the natural colou●…  
The next Letter being Q, there are not a●… sent any Goods begin with this letter, that a●… useful to us in this Nation, and therefore at 〈◊〉 I shall say no more of it, but pass on to the Le●…   

R.  
〈◊〉 which there are not many sorts neither, but I 〈◊〉 begin with what Indian things are only useful to 〈◊〉 and shall begin with Romals, of which there are ●…dy three sorts, which be termed as followeth, ●…e is Silk Romals, there is Romals Garrub, and ●…m Romals; I shall begin to give you advice 〈◊〉 of the Silk, and so each in order; the Silk is 〈◊〉 of all Silk, and if thick, wears well, if thin, 〈◊〉 very ill; the Garrub is the most deceitful of any, ●…ey for the generality wear like Dirt, if any of 〈◊〉 chance to wear well, it is more than we ex●…; the Cotton being the third and last sort, and 〈◊〉 much the best, for they as certainly wear well, ●…ey are made all of Cotton, as the others wear 〈◊〉 There is one sort of Indian thing more, called ●…es, it being a stripped Silk for either Gowns or 〈◊〉 Coats, there being of it several bredths, but ●●…adest is yard and half wide; they do not wear 〈◊〉 well, but are pretty colours, yet are but little 〈◊〉 h●…re, therefore I shall at present pass it by, ●…hall come to Roans and Rasterns, but because 〈◊〉 is not any allowed to come, I shall pass it by, ●…ome to ●●…ushy Cloth, which although it is a ●…e Cloth, is of much use with us, and therefore 〈◊〉 give you some small directions on this; it is ●…full half yard wide, if it chance so to be, it is of ●…bredth, if you buy that which is fine and even ●…ded, and not too thick, it will wear very well ●…ny use you have occasion to put it to; of this 〈◊〉 is two sorts, Hempen and Flaxen, but your ●…en is known by being whither and finer than the ●…pen, and wears by much the better; they are 〈◊〉 they come from beyond Seas tied up in Bundles, with a piece of the same Cloth they are betwix●… hundred and three hundred els in a Bundle, a●… though it is sold by the Pedlars, and other Sho●… the Yard, yet they buy by the Ell, the pieces ●… ry short, the longest seldom holds more than te●… there being some hold not above five els; I●… not treat any more on this, because I have al●… outrun the designed limits of my Book.   

S.  
I come now to S. and shall begin with 〈◊〉 Goods, and of those Susis shall be the first, it 〈◊〉 of most general use of any under this letter; 〈◊〉 is a sort of Stuff, made of half Silk, half C●… and is adorned with very delightful colours, 〈◊〉 wears, if not damaged, much beyond your 〈◊〉 and the more Silk is in it, the better it wears 〈◊〉 proper for a great many things, as Gowns and 〈◊〉 Coats in our Nation, but the greatest and mo●… neral use in this Kingdom are for Linen of Be●… Window Curtains, for which they are extraor●… pretty, because they are usually light colour●… are cheap; I could mention many other so●… Sannows a sort of calico, Sipriss a sort of S●…lk●… many others, but of no great use, but in this 〈◊〉 shall pass them by. I shall now begin accord●… my promise to treat of sleazy Lawns, it being ●●…ry useful Linen here with us, it takes its nam●… a Town called Slesia in Hamborough, and not f●… wearing sleazy, as a great many do imagin●… if good of the sort it wears very well; of this 〈◊〉 is two sorts of bredths, one three quarters and 〈◊〉 and the other but three quarters; the broad 〈◊〉 good for large Handkerchiefs, and many othe●… but is only most proper for Handkerchiefs ●●…d sort seldom fails of wearing very well, for ●●…y are always made of strong and good Flax, but ●…om wear very white, unless they have very good ●…hing, they are a very good breadth for Shirts, but ●…hardly thick enough for that purpose; of this 〈◊〉 you may have as fine as a Cambric, and some●…es there comes over some of Cambric whiting, ●…e wear very white, the other three quarters ●…e is only proper for narrow Handkerchiefs, the ●…seft sort wears often ill and yellow, but the finer 〈◊〉 stronger, they being evener-threaded than the ●…se; there be of this sort some of the Cambric ●…ting, but very seldom, which if you can get, ●…s as white as any, but this I must tell you, that 〈◊〉 sorts notwithstanding they are of Cambric ●…ing, when they grow old will incline to wear ●…w; but right Cambric wears white to the last. ●…ch Cl●…th coming under the letter S. I cannot 〈◊〉 it, being of so general use, and of so great ●…mption; it is a sort of white Sleasie-Soft●…h, it is of no great wear, but is fine of the ●…e, and it is of great use for Dying for Hats, ●…ngs and many other slight uses, but not for ●…gth, and since calico hath b●…en dear, is much ●…for Linens for Beds and for Window Curtains, ●…e is two sorts of bredths, one full yard, or a ●…e above, the other full three quarters, they are ●…fferent fineness, but never wear truly white, and ●…ear soft and sleazy, they hold differing lengths, ●…e hold but five yards, those are the very coarsest ●…ll, and as they arise in fineness, they rise in ●…th, the longest not exceeding twelve, or at the 〈◊〉 fourteen yards, they are bought by the whole●… by the numbers; for example, suppose the first ●…ber be twelve, they will take of 12 of the whole ●…ughout, and then you have the piece that are numbered twelve for nothing, and supposing the●… bers rise to twenty five, the highest stand i●…●…teen penny a yard▪ there are several sorts of 〈◊〉 for Dying Blues, or any other colour, but fo●… there is several bredths, and of differing price●… those are not bought by the number; you m●… for Fief Cloth or Mondross Cloth, which is the 〈◊〉 est and fittest for most purposes, For these are th●… oer sorts only for Dying. And because Shifts begi●… the Letter S. I shall here give you such Instru●… which if well observed and followed, you may 〈◊〉 by know how to Cut out a Shift out of two 〈◊〉 Holland, as most People shall do out of t●… and a quarter, and shall be both as long and as●… for example; If you will Cut out but one S●… ⅛ long, take two els of Holland, and slit it th●… the middle; let it be Ell wide or Yard wide, a●●…ing as the bigness of your body requires, and 〈◊〉 it is split through the middle, instead of taki●… half breadth, and just the same length of th●… half breadth for the Body, ●…nt of el ⅛ off of or 〈◊〉 half bredths, and just the same length off of th●… half breadth, which take for the body of your●… then take the remainder of one of the half h●… and double it, then lay it a cross, and cut it f●… Goar's, then take the other remainder of the 〈◊〉 and double it, and cut it in the middle, which 〈◊〉 just a pair of Sleeves, than you want only f●… Gussets, which will come out of the hollow●… the Neck of your Shift, which Rule you may 〈◊〉 in cutting out two, four, or six Shifts, for wh●… cut out two take a body of one of the half b●… and a body off of the other, and when you c●… take two Bodies off of one of the half bredth●… two Bodies off of the other, and when you 〈◊〉 take three off of one of the half bredths, and 〈◊〉 of the other, and by that means you may cut 〈◊〉 what length in reason you please; whereas if 〈◊〉 take your Bodies all of one piece, you can make 〈◊〉 but two els long, and by this means you save ●…arter of an Ell in the Cutting out of each Shift. ●…ld give you other Instructions for Cutting out ●…ll Cloth, that you might Cut a Shift as large ●…f a Cloth half Ell, as others should do out of a 〈◊〉 three quarters wide, but I shall be forced to 〈◊〉 this, by reason it would make me outrun the 〈◊〉 of my Book, and for that I shall treat of it in ●●…t Edition.   

T.  
〈◊〉 being the next Letter, there being but few Li●…●…f this, that are of any great use here, where●…cklenburs is one, it being a corpse Linen, ●…enerally very uneven, which comes from Ham●…, it is but little different from Ozenbricks in ●…s, and none but those that are of the Trade ●…ll the difference, but the right Ticklingburs, ●…ost as strong again as the Ozenbricks, you ●…ow the right Ticklingburs by this, the right is 〈◊〉 than the other, and is not so fine, but thicker, 〈◊〉 thread is not so even as the Ozenbrick, yet this 〈◊〉 is extremely useful both in Town and Coun●… there is not many  sold in England that ●…great Consumption as this, and at the dearest 〈◊〉 above Ten Pence, or at most Eleven Pence the 〈◊〉 There are other  of this Letter, but of 〈◊〉 no use here, and therefore I shall refer you 〈◊〉 to my next Book.   

U.  
There being few or none except French Clot●… dr this Letter, as Vehemounty and Vitery C●… I shall refer you for their Instructions to m●… Book.  
And for the Letters following, they havi●… thing falls under their Alphabet worth ment●… and therefore shall conclude with my wishes, 〈◊〉 may work my desired effects, which I am sure●… not fail to serve you in, if you punctually obse●… Directions, and if it is serviceable, I shall m●… addition of some material things, which 〈◊〉 omitted for Brevity's sake.  
FINIS.    

A Catalogue of Books.  
THE True Art of Angling: Or, The Best and Spee●… diest way of Taking all sorts of Freshwater Fish with ●…orm, Fly, Paste, and other Baits, in their proper ●…s; how to know the Haunts of Fish, and Angle for 〈◊〉 in all Waters and Weathers, at the Top, Middle, and 〈◊〉, Baiting of the Ground, Night Baits, Oils, and ●…nts, Baits Natural and Artificial: The several ways ●…gling; To make Oil of Asper, and many rare Secrets 〈◊〉 before made public; containing the whole Body of ●…g, and Mystery of a Complete Angler. By J. S. 〈◊〉. A Brother of the Angle. Printed for Geo. ●…ers at the Golden Ring, and John Sprint at the 〈◊〉 in Little Britain. Price 6 d.  
〈◊〉 The way to save Wealth. Showing, 1. How a Man ●…ive Well and Plentifully for Two Pence a Day. 2. Di●…s to make Shoe-leather, and other Leather last much 〈◊〉 than usual. 3. To Beautify Shoes, and keep them ●…et, and preserve them. 4. To make Coals spend much 〈◊〉 than usual. 5. To save Soap in Washing of Linen ●…s. 6. Directions to Dress Hats. 7. To Cure all sorts ●…nds whatever, by a Poultice only. 8. To make seve●…ts of Powder for the Hair. 9 Directions for the right ●…ing, and preserving from all Diseases, all sorts of 〈◊〉. 10. Directions to make several sorts of Ink Pow●… and other Ink. 11. To Brew good Liquors without Malt. 〈◊〉 T●…make Coffee of Horse Beans. 13. To make Sealing●…f all sorts. 14. To know whether Gold or Silver Coin ●…d. 15. To Cure Consumptions a new way. With di●… other Extraordinary Experiments, Rarities, and Cu●… laventions. Printed for G. Conyers, at the Golden Ring in Little Britain, over-against the Sugar. loaf. 〈◊〉 Price stitched 4 d.  
* The Experienced Fowler; or, The Gentleman, 〈◊〉 and Country-man's pleasant and profitable Re●… Containing, 1. The true Art of Taking Water a●… Fo●…l, with divers kinds of Nets, Lime twigs, Lime●… and how to make the best Birdlime. 2. Direct●… Batfowling, Lowbelling, Tramelling, and driving 〈◊〉 how to find their Haunts, and tuks them with S●… Snares, etc. 3. An exact Method for using the 〈◊〉 Piece at a true Level, to Shoot at Water, Groun●… or Flying. 4. How to make Shot, proportion the 〈◊〉 and know good Powder; with the proper use 〈◊〉 Horse, Bush, Hedge, and how to manage them. 〈◊〉 Singing-Birds, their Diseases and Cure. 6. 〈◊〉 distinguish all sorts of Poulterer's Ware; whether 〈◊〉 Young, Fresh or Stolen, full of Eggs or not. Also, 〈◊〉 Order, and speedily Fat Tame and Wild Fowl. 〈◊〉 which is added, Directions for destroying all ma●… Vermin. By J. S. Gent. Printed for Jo. 〈◊〉 at the Blue Bell; and G. Conyers, at the Rin●… Little Britain. Price Six Pence.