Health's Improvement: OR, RULES Comprising and Discovering The Nature, Method, and Manner of Preparing all sorts of FOOD Used in this NATION.  
Written by that ever Famous THOMAS MUFFETT, Doctor in PHYSIC:  
Corrected and Enlarged BY CHRISTOPHER BENNET, Doctor in Physic, and Fellow of the College of Physicians in London.  
LONDON, Printed by Tho: Newcomb for Samuel Thomson, at the sign of the white Horse in Paul's Churchyard, 1655.   

Imprimatur,  
FRANCIS PRUJEAN, President. 
 BALDUINUS HAMEY, 
 GEORGE ENT. 
 EDMUND WILSON. 
 CHRISTOPH. BENNET Censors.   

The Table.  

CHAP. I. 

1. WHat Diet is.  
2. Who were the Authors of it.  
3. What good it bringeth. 1    
Chap. 2. 

1 How many sorts of Diet there be.  
2. Wherein Diet consisteth materially.  
3. Wherein Diet consisteth formally. 2    
Chap. 3. and 4. Of Air. 

1. How it is to be chosen. 12  
2. How it is to be prepared. 20  
3. How it is to be used. 20    
Chap. 5. Of Meat, and the differcnces thereof, in Kind, Substance, Temperature and Taste. 29  
Chap. 6 Of Meats. How they differ in Preparation, Age and Sex. 41  
Chap. 7. 

1 How many sorts of flesh there be.  
2. Whether flesh or fish were first eaten of, and whether of them is the purest and best nourishment. 50    
Chap. 8. Of the flesh of tame Beasts. 58  
Chap. 9 Of the Flesh of wild Beasts, or Venison: 71  
Chap. 10. Of the Flesh of tame Birds. 79  
Chap. 11. Of the Flesh of wild Foul, abiding and feeding chiefly upon the Land. 90  
Chap. 12. Of the flesh of wild Foul, abiding and feeding chiefly upon the waters. 106  
Chap. 13. Of the Inwards and Outwards both of Beasts and Birds. 110  
Chap. 14. Of Milk. 119  
Chap. 15. Of Butter, Cream, Curds, Cheese and Whey. 128  
Chap. 16. Of Eggs and Blood. 134  
Chap. 17. Of Fish generally, and the difference thereof. 141  
Chap. 18. Of Sea-fish. 147  
Chap. 19 Of freshwater fish. 175  
Chap. 20. Of such living Creatures and Meats, as be neither Flesh nor Fish, and yet give good nourishment to the Body. 190  
Chap. 21. Of Fruit and the differences thereof. 194  
Chap. 22. Of all Orchard Fruit. 195  
Chap. 23. Of such Fruits of the Garden, as are nourishing. 215  
Chap. 24. Of such Fruits of the Field, as are nourishing. 231  
Chap. 25. Of the Variety, Excellency, Making and true use of Bread. 235  
Chap. 26. Of Salt, Sugar and Spice. 245  
Chap. 27. Of the necessary use and abuse of Sauces, and whereon they consist. 253  
Chap. 28. Of variety of Meats, that it is necessary and convenient. 258  
Chap. 30. Of the quantity of Meats. 273  
Chap. 31. Of the quality of Meats. 285  
Chap. 32. Of the Time, Order and Manner of Eating. 289    

To the Reader  
'tIs not an itch to be in print, but my Profession to keep men alive, and when gone to recover and revive them, that hath induced me to this undertaking▪ Blame me not therefore for using means to raise our Author out of the dust, and long oblivion, wherein he was buried: 'tis true, his own relations and their interests much solicited my help; but the merits of the man were my greatest motives, and his Old Fame most quickened me to restore him▪ Seriously, upon perusal, I found so much Life and Pulse in his dead Works, that it had not been charity in me to let him die outright, specially when 'tis for the world's good and your (Health's Improvement.) This is all, only if it may be any advantage to have my Judgement, 'tis a Piece for my palate, not likely to dis-relish any, where so much pleasure is interlarded with our profit▪ I may safely say, upon this subject I know none that hath done better; and were Platina, Apicius, or Alexandrinus, with all the rest of Dietetick writers now alive, they would certainly own, and highly value this Discourse. Accept then kindly his endeavours, that strives to do you good both in public and private. Farewell.  
Chr. Bennet.   

CHAP. I.  
1. What Diet is.  
2. Who were the authors of it.  
3. What good it bringeth.  


Biesius lib. 1. theor med. Jason Prait lib. 1. Dier.  
Hippoc. lib de. Pri●c.   DIet is defined by very learned Scholars, an exact order in Labour, Meat, Drink, Sleep, and Venery. For they are thought to be Pythagoras his pentangle or five squared figure, wherein (as Hipocrates saith of man's body) there be several confluences and concurrences; yet but one general Sympathy through all Nevertheless Labour was appointed for most to invite meat and drink: they to draw on sleep, for the ease of our labours: and all four, to perfect generation; which is not only essendi 
Aristot. lib de▪ gen. anim.  sed semper essendi causa; not only the cause of being but of ever being: for indeed after we are dead in ourselves, we recover in our posterity another life. But in this Treatise I define 
Gal. cap. 2. lib. 11. Comm. Hippoc. de na●. hum. Avicen. lib. 1. Top. 3. cap. 7. All our life i● but a consumption.  Diet more particularly (as it is usually taken both by the vulgar and also the best Physicians) to be an orderly and due course observed in the use of bodily nourishments, for the preservation recovery or continuance of the health of mankind. Which how and when it was first invented and by whom collected, neither Cardan, nor Scaliger, nor Virgil, nor Montuus, nor Biesius, nor Jason Pratensis, nor Psellus, nor any 
Lib. de prisc. med.  (in my judgement) have more truly declared, than Hypocrates himself; avouching that Necessity was the mother, and Reason the father of Diet. For when sickness crept into the world, and men gave the same meats to sick folks which they did to the healthful, they perceived them to be so far from recovery, that they rather waxed worse and worse. Hereupon being enforced to alter either the kind or the preparation, or the quantity, or the quality and order of nourishments: they knew by diligent observation what was fittest for every disease, for every sex, age, and complexion, and accordingly committed them to memory, or set them down 
Lib. de sol. anim.  in writing. Plutarch thinks that we first learned this knowledge of brute Beasts. For Pigeons and Cocks before they fight, will eat store (if they can get it) of cummin seed to lengthen their breath: and Nightingales eat spiders to prevent stops; and Lions having surfeited on flesh, abstain from all meat till it be digested. So the Marlin taught tender persons first to keep warm their feet, the Storks to remedy costiveness of body by the use of glisters, the Hedgehog to avoid walking in windy seasons, the little Birds to bathe in Summer, the Flies and Bees to keep home in Winter. For there is no doubt but the natures of men were in former ages so strong, that they did eat and digest every thing as it grew. Neither were Mills, Boulters, Ovens, and artificial preparations from the beginning; but as sickness of the body increased, so the mind devised remedies, teaching men how to thrash and grind corn, to make bread, to boil, roast, and bake meat, to give thin and liquid meats to weak stomaches, and grosser cates to them that be strong, after the example of every Bird; who first softeneth and boileth the meat in their maws, before they give it to their young ones, neither should we marvel hereat; For as ignorant Sailors (whose errors and imperfections no man could perceive in a calm sea) in a tempest do follow every man's advice: So the examples of Birds and Beasts did teach sick men wisdom, when through self-ignorance they lost the light of nature, and knew not what was good for themselves. But leave we Plutarch's conceit, and let us fetch the invention of Diet from a more worthy teacher, yea from the worthiest of all other, God himself. For can we imagine that he taught our forefathers (having sinned) how to clothe their bodies, and not how, and when, 
Gen. 3.  and wherewith to feed them? He that taught Abel how to diet sheep, would he leave him unskilful how to diet himself? or had Cain the art of tilling the ground, and not the knowledge how to use the grain thereof? Knew Physicians in 
Gen. 50. v. 2.  Jacob's time how to conserve dead bodies, and wanted they knowledge to preserve the living? Wherefore how foolishly soever some ascribe the invention of Diet to Apollo, Aesculapius, and that many-eide Osiris, or to Hypocrates, Galen, or Asclepiades: yet let this rest immovable, that it springeth from an elder time, then that any heathenish Chronicle is able to record the author thereof. For if the multitude of 
Hippoc. de vet. med.  burials be an argument of ill diet, and chose long life an argument of good; it must needs follow, that before the Universal Flood this noble knowledge of diet was not hid from the first Patriarcks, but as perfectly perceived as it was practised. For till after the Flood, men usually lived to eight hundred years, some to nine, many to seven, and none (for 
Gen. 5.  aught we have heard or read) died a natural death before five.  
Now if any man shall object, that the very name of Diet is not mentioned before the Flood, and that therefore the thing itself was not in use: I can shape him no better answer 
Lib. de art▪  then from the mouth of Hypocrates: Names are the Daughters of men, but things the Sons of nature. So that assoon as men began to feed, no doubt they were inspired with wisdom how much, how often, and of what to feed. For we must not imagine, though they had as it were Ostriches stomaches, and Giants strength, (insomuch that Lamech in his wound could crush into pieces the mightiest champion of our age) that therefore they neglected preparation or proportion in the use of nourishments; nay reason itself will conclude, that as one shoe did not fit every man's foot, nor children and young men fed alike in those days, so every man knew or was taught his peculiar diet, most proper healthful and convenient for his own estate. Wherefore as many disseases are recovered with our Physicians, but none without Physic: so albeit there lived no dietary Physicians before the Flood (if I should grant so much) yet no man can deny, that through feeding or fasting, drinking or thirsting, taking this thing or refusingthat, they preserved their life-oile (as I may term it) for many ages, which in this surfeiting and riotous age is commonly consumed in less than one. But some men will further object against me. What Sir? may diet prolong a man's life? why then through diet we may prove immortal, or at the least live as long as Adam did. Whereunto I answer, that albeit immortality is denied upon the earth to mortal men, yet so much life is prolonged by a good diet, by how much disseases thereby are eschewed. For as Solomon saith, to whom is pain of the belly, and gripe, 
Prov. 27. Eccl. 28.  and redness of eyes, and want of health? even to those 
lib. de art.  that keep no measure, but greedily hunt after wine, and rise up early to drink strong drink. Some in Hypocrates time, seeing 
Hippoc. de prisc. med.  precise observers of Physic to die assoon as they which used no physic, conceived presently no otherwise of Physicians, them as of Kings in a stage play; carrying golden crowns, and sceptres, and swords, commanding for the time whole Empires, but indeed void of inborn Majesty in themselves, and of outward ability fit for so high a caling. So now in our days the name of Diet seems but a scarecrow to the unwiser sort, who think it best diet, to keep no diet at all, saying (as Will. Summer said to Sir John Rainsford) drink Wine and have the gout, drink no Wine and have it too. Which in effect what is it else, then with the Sicilians 
Athen. lib. 1. cap. 1. Aristoph. in Acan. Homer. Odyss. s.  to erect a Temple to riot: or with the Barbarians to praise surfeiting? or with Ulysses drunken companions to open Aeolus his bottle all at once? whereby their Ship was so far from proceeding, that all art and prayers, yea and all the Gods (in a manner) were not able to keep it above the waters. Let me 
Hippoc. epistol. ad. Crate●  laugh (said Democritus) at men's follies, who diet their horses, sheep, cattle, yea their capons, and geese, and yet themselves keep no diet. They foresee by porking of raven, flying of kites, croaking of frogs, and bathing of ducks, when it will rain; yet surfeiting daily they cannot foresee their own ruin.  
To the like purpose singeth a French Poet.  
Si tu veux viure sainement  
Ay pour toy tel pensement:  
Que de ton cheval falcon on chien,  
Quand autre chose leur vint que bien.  
If sickness thou wilt long award,  
Have of thyself that due regard,  
Which to their falcons, Steeds, or Hounds  
Men bear, when sickness them surrounds.  
And truly well might the one laugh, and the other sing at such follies. For albeit an exquisire thin diet (called of joubertus the inch-diet, wherein we eat by drams, and drink 
Lib. de vulg● error.  by spoonfuls) more perplexeth the mind than cureth the body, engendering a jealousy over every meat, suspicion on every quantity, dread, fear, and terror over every proportion (bereaving the head of quietness, the heart of security, and the stomach consequently of good concoction) yet the full diet as it is more usual, so is it in effect no less dangerous. Would you see the discommodities of excess? why then imagine 
Cic. orat. cont. Ver. Plut. in Dion. Homer. i. Odyss. Herodorus. Ovid. 14. metam. Plut. de sal. pr. Plut. ibidem,  you saw Verres rolling before break of day in his own Vomits, Dyonisius belching up a sour and unpleasant breath, Polyphemus stripped of wit and memory, Cleomenes King of Lacedemonia playing after his drunkenness at cherrypit with Children, Elpenor (Ulysses his companion) breaking his neck down the stairs, Ennius racked with the Sciatica▪ Riglus the wrestler dead of an apoplexy, Anacreon so unable to swallow any more drink that he was strangled with a 
Xiphil. in vitellio.  grapes kernel, Vibius Crispus dying at the stool, an old English Knight dying at the Chamberpot. On the otherside 
Marsil. Fie. de tuend sand.  will it please you to mark the commodities of diet, and moderate nourishing? Then behold Timotheus, who being continually sick through daily surfeiting, came once to Plato's Table, where he fed (as the company did) and drank moderately. The next morning he cried out with this admiration:▪ O sweet Plato, sweet Plato; how truly sweet are thy suppers, which make us to sleep and awake so sweetly? How able am I now to all exercises, being erst so unable to the least labour? No marvel Timothy: for as the Sun cannot warm us when Clouds be between: So excess either fetters or divides the minds, faculties. How careful is the mind always to preserve life? yet many a drunkard sinks under water, because reason cannot teach him the art of swimming, the inward senses being choked with abundance of 
lib. de Diet.  clammy vapours. Divine Hippocrate (whom I can never sufficiently name nor honour) compareth diet most fitly to a Potter's wheel, going neither forward nor backward, but (as the world itself moveth) equally round: moistening that which is too dry, drying up that which is too moist, restoring true flesh if it be decayed, abating proud flesh (by abstinence) if it be too much, neither drawing too much upward nor downward (as peevish sawyer's do:) neither clapping on too much nor too little Sail (like unskilful Mariners) but giving (like a wise Steward) every part his allowance by geometrical proportion, that the whole household and family may be kept in health Such a steward was Asclepiades, who cured by only 
G●●. comm. 2. in Hippoc. de vict. rat. Gal. lib 5. cap. ● de tuend. san Sip●nt●us in vet. Gal.  Diet infinite diseases. Such an one was Galen, that famous Physician, who being three or four times sick before he was twenty eight years old, looked afterwards more strictly to his diet; in such sort that a hundred years following he was never sick but once, and died only through want of radical moisture. Such an one finally was Hypocrates, who lived till he was a hundred and nine years old (or at the least till he was fourscore and five) without any memorable sickness, and 
Soranus in ●jus vita.  yet he had by nature but a weak head, insomuch that he ever wore a night cap. Wherefore let us neither with the impudent, call diet a frivolous knowledge, or a curious science with the imprudent: but embrace it as the leader to perfect health, (which as the wise man saith) is above gold, and a 
Siracid. cap. ●. v. 15.  sound body above all riches. The Romans once banished Physicians out of Rome, under pretence that physic drugs weakened the people's stomaches: and Cooks, for corrupting and enforcing appetites with strange sauces and seasonings: and Perfumers, and Anointers, and Bathe-masters, because they did rather mollify and effeminante the Romans minds, than any whit profit or help their bodies. Yet they retained Cato, the chief dietist of that time, and all them that were able (without physic) to prevent or cure diseases: esteeming diet (as it is indeed) to be so honest, pleasant, and profitable a science, that even malice itself cannot but commend it, and her enemies are forced to retain it. Thus much or rather too much, in the commendation of Diet; for which some Spartan censor would severely punish me, as Antalaides did the Orator that praised Hercules, whom no wiseman ever discommended. For howsoever idle heads have made these addle proverbs. 1. Dieted bodies are but bridges to Physicians minds. 2. We shall live till we die in despite of Diet. 3. Every disease will have his course. 4. More Rhubarb and less Diet, etc. Yet the wisest man and King of all others, hath established it upon such grounds, as neither can nor shall ever be shaken with all their malice.   

CHAP. II.  
1. How many sorts of Diet there be.  
2. Wherein Diet consisteth materially.  
3. Wherein Diet consisteth formally▪  


How many kinds of Diet there be.  
Gal. come. in apho. 4. lib. 2. Com. 6. in 6. Epid.   1. THere be especially three sorts of Diets; a full Diet, a moderate Diet, and a thin Diet. The first increaseth flesh, spirits, and humours, the second repaireth only them that were lost, and the third lesseneth them all for a time, to preserve life. Full Diet is proper unto them 
Com. 4. in 6. Epid.  which be young, growing, strong, lusty, and able through their good constitution to endure much exercise. Moderate Diet is fittest for persons of a middle health, whose estate of body 
Com. in aph. 4. lib. 1.  is neither perfectly strong nor over-weak. Thin Diets are never to be used, especially in the strictest kind, but where violent diseases (caused either of fullness or corruption) have the pre-eminence: wherein how much the body wanteth sufficient food, so much the sickness wanteth his tyrannical vigour.  


The matter of Diet.  
Roger Bacon lib. de record. senect. accid.   2. The matter of Diet, is neither iron nor steel, nor silver, nor coral, nor pearl, no nor gold itself; from which worthy simples, albeit most rare and effectual sustenances be drawn (as our own Countryman of all other, most learnedly proveth) to strengthen our body, and to thicken our radical moisture, which is soon consumed (like a fine spirit of wine) when it is too thin and subtle: yet neither have they, neither can they have a nourishing power, because our natural heat will be tired before it can convert their oil into our oil, their substance into our substance, be it never so cunningly and finely exalted. Furthermore, if it be true (which 
Hyppoc. de diaet sal.  Hypocrates and reason telleth us) that as contraries are expelled by contraries, so like is sustained by his like: How should the liquors of gold, pearl, and precious stones (which the Chemists have named Immortal essences) nourish or augment 
Paracelf de vit. long l. ●: c: 4:  our mortal substance? Nay doth not that soon restore decayed flesh (as milk, jelly, strong broths, and young lamb, which soon corrupteth, if it be not presently eaten? Is not a young snite more nourishing (yet it keeps not long 
August▪ de civet. dei.  sweet) than a peacock that will not corrupt nor putrify in a whole year, no not in thirty years (saith Kiranides) though it be buried in the ground? yet as a candle's end of an inch long being set in cold water, burneth twice as long as another out of water; not because water nourisheth the flame, which by nature it quencheth, nor because it increaseth the tallow, which admits no water, but by moistening the circumfluent air, and thickening the tallow, whereby the flame is neither so light nor lively as it would be otherwise: in like sort, the substances, powders, and liquors of the things aforesaid, may perhaps hinder the speedy spending of natural heat, by outward cooling of fiery spirits, inward thickening of too liquid moistures, hardening or condensating of flaggy parts; but their durableness and immortality (if they be immortal) are sufficient proofs that they are no nourishments for corruptible men. But they are pure essences, 
Phaedr. de aquila coel Michael Tox. come▪ in Para●▪ de vit. long.  and therefore suitable to our radical moisture, which the best Physicians derive from a starr-like substance. Alas, pure fools! what do you vaunt and brag of purity, when the purest things do least nourish? for had not the air, water, and earth, certain impurities, how should men, beasts, birds, fish, and plants continue? for the finer the air, the less it nourishes, the clearer the water, the less it fatneth, the simpler the ground, the less it succoureth: yea were we in an air (such as the element of air itself is defined to be) void of invisible seeds, and those impalpable substances or resekens that are sometimes descried by the Sunbeams, our spirits should find no more sustenance by it, than a dry man drink in an empty hogshead. And though we see Pikes to live a great while in Cisterns with clear water alone, yet were that water so pure as the element itself, they would clean consume for want of nourishment. The like may be said of plants growing in a dry, crumbling, sapless and unmingled earth, wherein we should see them quickly so far from sprouting, that for want of their restorrative moisture they would come▪ to withering. Wherefore I conclude, Neither Oriental stones for their clearness, nor pearls for their goodliness, nor coral for his temperating of blood, nor gold for his firmness, nor liquor of gold for his purity, nor the quintessences of them all for their immortality, are to be counted nourishments, or the matters of Diet. Object 
Io. Bonus Ter. ●●r. in Margar. philos.  not the Ostrich his consuming of stone and metals, to prove that therefore they may nourish man; no more than the duck, nightingale, or stork, to prove that toads, adders and spiders are nourishing meats: For our nourishment (properly 
Gal. de alim. ●ac. 1.  taken) is that nature or substance, which increaseth or fostereth our body, by being converted into our substance. Now for as much as our bodies (like the bodies of all sensible and living creatures else) consist of a treble substance, namely, aerial Spirits, liquid humours, and confirmed parts: it is therefore necessary it should have a treble nourishment answerable to the same; which Hypocrates truly affirmeth 
Lib. de aer. loc. & aq.  to be Air, Meat, and Liquors.  

Whether Metals be meat: vide supra:  Meat is a more gross and corporeal substance, taken either from vegetables in the earth, or creatures living upon the earth, or living ever or sometimes in the water, whereby the grosser part of our body is preserved-liquors are thin and liquid 
Plin. lib. 7. c. 2. Apol. lib. de hist. mir. Athen. lib. 2. dipn. cap. 2.  nourishment, serving as a sled to convey meat to every member, and converted most easily into humours.  
Now whereas Pliny nameth some which never eat meat, and Apollonius and Athenaeus, other which never drank; they are but few and particular persons (yea perhaps the sons of Devils)▪ which cannot overthrow the general rule and course of nature. It is possible to God (as the Devil truly objected) to make stones as nourishing as bread; to feed men with locusts) a most fretting, burning, and scalding vermin) as he did John Baptist: to give us stones instead of bread, and to give us scorpions when we ask eggs: yet usually he doth not transgress the course of nature, by which, as by his bailiff, he rules the world: so that when any man lived without meat or drink (as Moses and Elias did forty days) it is rather to be counted a miraculous working, then to be imputed to the strength of nature.   

CHAP. III.  
Of AIR.  
1. How it is to be chosen.  
1. AS Hypocrates said of Meats, Like Food, like flesh: so may I justly say of the air, like air, like spirits; for hence cometh it that in pure, clear, and temperate air, our spirits are as jocund, pleasant, active, and ready as butterflies in Summer; but in thick, dark, cloudy, and unseasonable weather, they are dull, drowsy, idle, and as heavy as lead, working neither perfectly what they ought, nor cheerfully what they would. Witty Cardan supposeth 
lib. 1. de rer. var.  a like resemblance to be betwixt our bodies, and the air, as there is betwixt the soul and heaven: So that as they incline the soul, so the air altereth the body every way; let the air be cloudy, how can the body be warm? Let it be hot, how can that be cold? let it be chilled with frost or snow, our skin (yea our inwards themselves) begin to shiver? How staggers the head, and how presently sinks the heart, at the smell of a damp, or the insensible sense of deadly and subtle spirits, carried from the ughtrees of Thasus, or the hole of a Cokatrice, or the breathing of Asps, or the dens of Dragons, or the carcases of dead Serpents, wherewith the air is not so soon infected, as the hearts and brains of men, 
lib. 2. de tu. san.  whereunto it is carried. Galen saith, That the inhabitants of the Palestine lake are ever sickly, their cattle unsound, and their Country barren, through the brimstone and pitchy vapour ascending from thence over all the Country, in such sort that birds flying over it, or beasts drinking of it, do suddenly die; And verily no bird hateth that Lake, nor the Lakes of Avernum, Lucrine, or Milan, like unto it; no frogs and serpents can less live in Ireland, foxes in Crete, stags in Africa, hares in Ithaca, and fishes in warm water, than the heart of man can abide impure smells, or live long in health with infected airs; which if they do not always corrupt men, yet they show their force, and exercise their power over cattle, herbs, grass, corn, fruits, and waters, a great while after▪ poisoning us (as it were) at a second draught, 
Lu●tet. lib. 10.  whilst we feed of infected things, and (as Eclipses are wont to do) spitting out their venom when they are almost forgotten. Sicil is recorded to be seldom void of the Plague: and the dwellers of Sardinia quitted their Country oftentimes for the same cause. But how could it be otherwise, when the wind blows there most commonly out of Africa, the mother of all venomous and filthy beasts? Is not Middleborough, Rotterdam, Delf, and divers other Cities in Zealand and Holland, stinched every dry Autumn with infinite swarms of dead frogs, putrifying the air worse than carrion? Rome also was greatly annoyed with agues and pestilence, till by Asclepiades his council their common sewers were monthly cleansed, their privy-vaults yearly emptied, and their soil and offal daily carried forth into the fields; whereby receiving the benefit of sweet air and health both at once, no marvel (as Mr. Ajax his Father hath well noted) though the Skavenger and Gun-farmer, that is, Stercutius and Cloacina were honoured as Gods. And verily had that worthy Author lived amongst those Romans, as he liveth in this unthankful and wicked age, wherein (to speak with Hypocrates) admirantur fatui, calumniantur plerique, intelligunt 
Lib. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉.  pauci:) no doubt ere this he had been very highly exalted, and stood in some solemn Capitol, betwixt Stercutius and Cloacina, as King Ludd doth upon Ludd-Gate betwixt his two sons: For I assure you (and let us not but give the Devil his right) he hath truly, plainly, and perfectly set down such an art of Privy-making, that if we would put it in practice, many a house should be thought in London to have never a Privy, which now smells all over of nothing else: Neither is the air only infected with venomous winds and vapours, sinks, sewers, kennels, charnel houses, moors, or common lestals (as in great Camps and Cities) nor only with privy vaults; but also Biesius maketh mention, that a 
lib de aeris potest.  house in Spain seated among many elder trees (wherewithal the grounds were headged) cast every man out of it (like Sejus horse) either dead or diseased, till such time as he caused them to be rooted up, and so made it both wholesome and 
Plin. l. 13. c. 1.  habitable to the dwellers. Furthermore it is recorded, That as the air in Cyprus cureth any ulcers of the lungs, so the air of Sardinia makes and enlargeth them: And as the air of Anticyra helpeth madness, so chose the air of Thasus (especially in a hot and dry summer) brought almost all the inhabitants into a lunacy, which no doubt happened upon these causes, That Cyprus aboundeth in Cypress and Firr-trees, Sardinia in Alom and Copper Mines, Anticyra is replenished with true Hellebors, and Thasus is full of deadly Ughes, which either kill a man, or make him mad, when the savour infects him fully, as it doth in such hot and dry 

Plut. in vita Marii.  
Hieron. in epic. Nepotiani.   Countries. The air may be also infected with the smoke of Charcoal newly kindled, whereof Quintus Catulus died: or with the smell of new mortar, which killed Jovinianus the Emperor in his bed: or with the snuff of a candle, wherewith many have been strangled; or with the air of a pan of coals throughly kindled, by which as Aemylius Victor studied 
Hieron. Mercurial. in Gymnast.  in the City of Parma, he suddenly fell down dead. By the smell of a snuff of a candle, many become leprous, and women miscarry of children. What light is best to study by, of oil, wax, dears suet, and tallows; the very smell of roses cureth headache, and of some flowers drunkenness. The smell of a wantlowse may kill a child in the mother's womb: the very smell of Physic cureth many.  
First therefore in the election or choice of air, observe this, that it be pure and void of infection: for pure air is to the heart, as balm to the sinews, yea it is both meat, drink, exercise, and Physic to the whole body. Meat, whilst it is easily converted into spirits: Drink, whilst it allayeth the thirst of the lungs and heart, which no drink can so well quench; exercise, whilst it moveth humours immovable otherwise of their own nature; medicine or Physic, whilst it helpeth to thrust forth excrements, which would else harden or putrify within our bodies, the vapours whereof would so shake the bulwark of life, and defile the rivers of blood issuing from the liver, that we should not live long in health, if happily we lived at all.  
Next to purity of air, we must choose that also which is temperate. For natural heat is not preserved, saith Galen, but of air moderately cold: And Aristotle saith, That 
Lib. de resp. ●su. ex Hipp. l. de loc. aer. & aq l. 7 polit.  Countries and Cities, and houses, which by interposition of hills on the North side be seldom cooled, are subject to mortality, and many diseases. Yet must it not be so hot as to dissolve spirits, procure thirst, and abundant sweat, to the hindering of urine, and decaying of strength and appetite: But (as I said before) of a middle temper, because as nature 
Gal. 1. dr▪ tu▪ san  is the mother, so mediocrity is the preserver of every thing. Who sees not a dry Summer peeleth, and a dry winter riveleth the skin? and that chose, an over-moist air puffeth it up with humours, and engendereth rheums in the whole body?  
Thirdly, That air is best which is most seasonable: Namely, warm and moist in the Spring, hot and dry in Summer, cooling and dry in Autumn, cold and moist in Winter: 
Hippolito de aer. loc. & aq.  which seasons falling out contrarily, as sometimes they do (especially in Islands) infinite and unavoidable diseases ensue thereupon. For if the spring-aire be cold and dry through abundance of North-east winds, dry inflammations of the eyes, hot urines, fluxes of blood by nose and bowels, and most dangerous catarrhs to old persons, follow upon it. If Summer be cold and dry through the like winds, look for all kinds of agues, headaches, coughs, and consumptions: chose if it be too hot and dry, suppression of urine, and women's courses, together with exceeding bleeding at the nose is to be feared. If Autumn be full of Southern and warm blasts, the next Winter attend all rheumatic and moist diseases. If Winter on the contrary be cold and dry, which naturally should be cold and moist, long agues, humoral aches, coughs and pleurisies are to be expected, unless the next Spring be of a moist disposition.  
Again, consider also, how any house or City is situated, for the air is qualified accordingly. Namely, if they be placed Southeast, South, and South-west, and be hindered from all Northern blasts by opposition of hills, they have neither 
Hippoc. de loc. aer▪ & aq.  sweet water, nor wholesome air; but there women are subject to fluxes and miscarriages, children to convulsions and shortness of breath, men to bloody fluxes, scour, and Hemorrhoids, and such like. But Cities, Countries, or houses situated clean contrary, towards the Northwest, North, and North-East, and defended from all Southern gusts and blasts, albeit the people there are commonly more strong and dry, yet are they subject through suppression of excrements, unto headaches, sharp pleurisies, coughs, exulceration of the lungs, phlegmatic collections, rupture of inward veins, and red eyes. Likewise in those Countries, young boys are subject to swelling of the cod's, young girls to the navel-rupture; men to the diseases above named: Women to want and scarcity of their natural terms, to hard labours, ruptures and convulsions, and to consumptions after childbearth▪ Easterly Towns (especially inclining to the south) and houses are more wholesome than the westerly for many causes: first because the air is there more temperately hot and cold. Secondly because all waters and springs running that way, are most clear fragrant pleasant and wholesome, resembling as it were a dainty spring; and verily women there conceive quickly and 
Hippoc. loco citato.  bring forth easily: children prove large, well coloured and lively: men healthful strong and able to any exercise, But Western cities and houses, barren, clean, of Eastern gusts, have ever both troubled waters and unwholesome winds, which mingled with the waters obscure their clearness, and maketh the inhabitants weak, heavy, and ill coloured, hoarce-voiced, dull witted, and wanting (as if they were entering the house of death) quickness and vigour. But Avicen of all others declares this most at large, who showing the boldness and goodness of air by the situation, 
Lib. 1. Fen. 2. d●st. 11.  describes them in these words. Houses having their chief or full seat Eastward, are very wholesome for three causes. First, because the Sun rising upon them, purgeth the air very timely, Secondly, because it stays not there long to dissolve spirits, but turneth westward after noon, Thirdly, because cold winds are commonly as ushers to the Sun rising, by which all corruption is killed, that either was in the air or lay on the ground. Western places are worst situated: First, because the Sun bestows not his maiden head and kingly heat upon them, but a hot and scorching flame, neither attenuating nor drying their air, but filling it full of fogs and mists Whereupon it falls out, that the inhabitants are much troubled with hoarseness, rheums, measils, pocks, and pestilence. Southern seats are commonly subject to catarrhs, fluxes of the belly, heaviness, want of appetite, haemoroids, inflammation of eyes; and their women conceive hardly and miscarry easily, abounding in menstrual and mighty pollutions, their old men are subject to palsies, trembling apoplexies and all humoral diseases, their children to cramps and the falling evil: their young men to continual putrified agues, and all kind of rebellious fevours. In Nothren countries through the dryness, coldness, and sharpness of the wind; women do hardly conceive, and dangerously bring forth: or if they be well delivered, yet commonly through want of milk they are not able to nurse their children. Their young men die of consumptions, their old men and children of cruel cramps. They which dwell upon the tops of hills (where every wind blows from under the Sun) are for the most part sound, strong, nimble, long-lived and fit for labour. chose the valley people (so seated that no wind blows upon them) are ever heavy spirited, dull and sickly: for as a fire of green wood dieth unless the flame be scattered with continual blowing; and as a standing water corrupteth in a little space: so an idle air rolled about with no winds soon putrifieth; because his dissimilar parts be not separated by winowing, as the chaff is from the wheat. 
The best Air  But the best situation of a house or city, is upon the slaunt of a south-west hill (like to this of Ludlow, wherein we sojourn for a time) neither fully barred of the East, North, and Southern winds, clear, and free from the mists of bogs and fens, purified from the stink of common Sinks, Vaults and Lestals, as also from the unwholesome breathe of Caves, Coalpits, & Copper, or Brimstone-mines: not so cold as to stupefy members, not so hot as to burn the skin, not so moist as to swell us with rheums, nor so dry as to parch up our natural moisture: not to much nor to variable (as upon the top of hills) not so little, nor too standing, as in low Valleys: neither smelling of nothing, as in barren Countries, nor smelling of bad things, as in the Fens: but fragrant without a discerning of smell, and sweetest of all in an unknown sweetness For howsoever some men dream, that the smell of the spice-trees in Arabia felix make the neighbour inhabitants both healthful of body and sound of mind (which I will not deny, if you compare them with the borderers of the Palestine lake.) Nevertheless as Tully saith of women, They smell best which smell of nothing; so verily the air that smells of nothing is best to nourish us in health, though otherwise in some sickness a perfumed air is best, and also to expel a loathsome stink, or (like to the neighing of Apollo's horses) to rouse up dull and sleepy senses. In which respect I am of Aristotle's opinion, that sweet smells were appointed to be in flowers, fruits, barks, roots, fields, and meadows, not only for delight, but also for medicine. Nevertheless as the tastles water makes the best broth, so the smelling air gives the purest (I will not say the strongest) nourishment to our spirits. In Plutarch's time men were grown to this wantonness, that every morning and night they perfumed not only their apparel and gloves, but also their bodies with sweet ointments, made of most costly spices: buying with great charges, what shall I say? an idle, a needless, a womanly pleasure? nay verily an unnatural and more than brutish. For every beast loveth his own mate only for her own smell (whatsoever it be) but some men love not their meat, nor drink, nor the air, nor their wives, nor themselves, unless they smell, or rather stink of sweet costly and foreign fumes: which being taken without cause, do the head more hurt then being taken upon cause they do it good. Wherefore if thy brain be temperate, and not too moist, cold, or dull, eschew a strong smelling air (such as comes from walflowers, stock-gillyflowers, pinks, roses, Hyacinths, mead sweet, honey suckles, jasimin, Narcissus, musk, amber civet, and such like) contenting thyself with the simplest air, which for sound complexions is simply best. Or if for recreation and pleasuresake thou desirest it some time, let it not be of a full or strong sent: but mingled with sweet and sour (as violets with Time) and breathing rather a sharp than a fulsome sweetness. And thus much of the choice of airs; now come we to the preparation and use of them.   

CHAP. FOUR  
OF AIRE.  
1. How it is to be prepared.  
2. How it is to be used.  

Lib. cont. Epic P u● de u●. ex: host. cap.  SAtyrus (that Goat-bearded God) the first time that ever he saw fire, would needs kiss it and embrace it in his arms, notwithstanding that Prometheus forewarned him of coming too nigh: for he knew well enough the nature of fire to be such, that as in certain distances, times, and quantities it may be well endured, so in others it is harmful and exceeding dangerous. The like may I say of heat, cold, moisture, and dryness of the air: which in the first or second step towards them may and do preserve life, but the nearer you come to their extremities, the nearer are you to death: So that either you will be burnt with Satyrus, or frozen to death with Philostratus, or dried up for lack of moisture with Darius' Soldiers when they could get no water, or die as the inhabitants of the lakes in Egypt do with too much moisture. Wherefore let every one consider his own strength and constitution of body; for some like to new wax, are dissolved with the least heat, and frozen with the least cold: others with Salamanders think nothing hot enough, others like to silk worms can abide no cold; others with Smiths and Woodcocks can abide those frosts which even the fishes themselves can hardly tolerate. So likewise dry constitutions laugh and sing with the Thrush when rain approacheth: when others of the contrary complexion do mourn and lament with the Plouver, because it is so wet. Which being so, I shall no doubt deserve well of every man in teaching him so to prepare the air, that sometimes abroad, but always at home it may be tempered (according as he most needeth) and purified from all infection. Concerning the tempering of air in our houses: is it too hot and dry? then coul it by sprinkling of Vinegar and Rose water, by strewing the flower with green flags, rushes, newly gathered, reed leaves, water-lilly leaves, violet leaves and such like; stick also fresh boughs of willow, sallow, poplar, and ash (for they are the best of all) in every corner. Is it too cold and moist? amend it by fires of clear and dry wood; and strew the room and windows with herbs of a strong smell, as mints, penniroial cammomil, balm, nep, rue, rosemary and sage. Is it too thick and misty? then 
Plut. de Isi. & Osir.  attenuate and clear it in your chamber first by burning of pine-rosin (as the Egyptians were wont to do) then presently by burning in a hot fireshovel some strong white-wine vinegar. But their chiefest perfume of all other called Kuphi: The great temper, was made of sixteen simples: namely, wine, honey, raisins of the sun, cypress, pine-rosin, myrrh, the sweet rush, calamus aromaticus, spike-nard, cinnamon, berries of the great and little juniper, lignumaloes, saffron, figtree buds, and cardamons: to which composition 
Gal. 2 de ant●d▪ Plut. de Isid.  in Galens time Democrates added Bdellium and the seed of agnus castus, and the Physicians in Plutarch's time the roots of Calamint. It were needless to write how wonderfully Apollo, I mean our new Apollo Francis Alexander 
Tract. de▪ trochisk.  of Vercelles (for so like a proud Italian he calleth his own work) commend the same in his third beam; or how Plutarch 
Plut. de Isi. & Osir. Avic. Fen. 2. Tract. 3.  and Avicen extol it above all others, in that it not only bringeth any air to a good temper; but also cleanseth the same of unclean spirits, openeth it when it is cloudy, attenuateth it when it is too thick, refineth it when it is full of dreggy mixtures, and consequently dispelleth melancholy from the head, fear and ill vapours from the heart, procuring natural and quiet sleep, and therefore not unworthily consecrated to the Gods. Now as the Egyptians burned rosin in the morning, and their Kuphi towards noon, so albeit the sun set, when many heavy vapours lie in the air, the Ancients were not to burn myrrh and juniper: which disperse those heavy vapours, leaving in the house a rectified air, quickening the senses, and correcting those melancholic fumes that pervert judgement. Wherefore the Egyptians call myrrh, Bal, and Juniper Dolech the purifiers of the air, and curers of madness. Whereat let no man wonder, sith the very noise of bells, guns, and Trumpets, breaketh the clouds, and cleanseth the air: yea Music itself, cureth the brain of madness, and the heart of melancholy, as many learned and credible Authors have affirmed. Much more than may it be tempered, and altered to the good or hurt of our inward parts by smells and perfumes, whereby not only a mere air (as in Sounds) is carried to the inward parts, but also invisible seeds and substances qualified with variety of divers things. For who knoweth not that the smell of Opium bringeth on sleep, drowsiness, and sinking of the spirits? chose the the smell of Wine, and strong vinegar out of a narrow mouthed glass, awaketh the heaviest headied man, if possibly he can be awaked. Furthermore because stinking smells (unless one by little and little be accustomed to them, as our dungfarmers, and kennel rakers are in London; and as a wench did eat Napellus, a most cruel poison, ordinarily as a meat) are both noisome to the head, and hurtful to the lungs, heart, and stomach; in such sort, that they which live in a stinking house, are seldom healthy: It shall be good, where the cause cannot wholly be removed, to correct the accident in this sort, with sweet waters, sweet perfumes, sweet pomanders, and smelling unto sweet fragrant things.  
Isabel Cortesa, that dainty Lady of Italy, combed her hair, and sprinkled her gown every morning with 
Swe 't waters perfumed, and cakes against i● smells.  this sweet water following, whereby the air circumfluent was so perfumed, that wheresoever she stood, no stinch could be discerned. Take of Orange flower water, water of Violets, water of the musk-geranium, and the musk rose, water of red and damask roses, of each a pint; powder of excellent sweet orris, two ounces; powder of Storax Calamite, Benjoine, and Indian wood of roses, of each half an ounce; Civet a dram and a half. Mingle all together, and let them stand in Balneo three days. Then after the water is throughly cold, filter it out with a fine filter, and keep it to your use in a glass very close stopped.  
Marinellus maketh another not much inferior unto this, whereof this is the description. Take a pottle of damask-rose-water, Benjoin, Storax calamity, cloves, and wood of Aloes, of each a● ounce; ambre-grice and civet of each a scruple: boil them together in Balneo in a glass very well stopped, for 24 hours' space; filter it out when it is cold, and having hanged fifteen grains of musk in it tied in a close cloth, set it five days in the sun, and keep it to your use.  
These waters are costly, but verily exceeding good; nevertheless sith men of mean fortune are likewise to be preserved, I appoint for them these perfumed cakes, and for the poorer sort, a less costly perfume. Take of Benjoin six drams, wood of aloes four drams, storax calamity four drams, sweet orris two drams, musk a scruple, white sugar candy three ounces, beat them into fine powder, and with red-rose water, work them into a stiff paste, whereon make a sort of little cakes no bigger nor thicker than a threepences; dry them in a cold shadowy place, and then put them up very close into a glass, and take out one or two, or as many as you please, and burn them upon quick coals. The poorer sort may make them fire-cloves, far better than you shall find any at the Apothecaries, after this Receipt. Take of good Olbanum half a pound, Storax Calamite an ounce and a half, Laudanum half an ounce, coals of juniper wood 2 drams, make all into fine powder, and then with 2 drams of gum Tragacanth mingled with rose water, and macerated three days together, and an ounce of Storax liquida, form the paste like great cloves, or sugar-loves, or birds, or in what form you list, and dry them in an oven when the bread hath been drawn; kindle one of these at the top, and set it in any room, and it will make it exceeding sweet.  
But forasmuch as no air is so dangerous as that which is infected with pestilent influences, let us consider how, and in what sort that of all other is to be corrected. Hypocrates (for aught we read of) when his own Country, and the City of Athens were grievously surprised of the Plague, used no other remedies to cure or preserve the rest, then by making of great fires in each street, and in every house, especially in the night time, to purify the air; whereby the Citizens or Athens being delivered from so dangerous an enemy, erected to Hypocrates an 
Soranus in vita Hipp.  Image of beaten Gold, and honoured him alive as if he had been a God. And verily, as running water, like a broom, cleanseth the earth, so fire like a Lion, eateth up the pollutions of the air, no less than it consumeth the drossy metals. So that cleanliness and good fires▪ cannot but either extinguish or lessen any infection: whereunto if we also add the use of other outward correctors and perfumers of the air, no doubt it will be much, if not wholly amended. The Pestilence (as I have noted 
How the air is t● he corrected in the time of pestilence.  to my grief in mine own house) taketh some first with a great chillness and shaking, others with a hot sweat and often fainting: In some place it raineth most in Winter, others it never annoyeth but in Summer. The first sort are to correct the air about them with good fires, and burning of Lignum Aloes, Ebony, Cinnamon bark, Sassaphras, and Juniper, which (as Matthiolus recordeth 
Com. in Diosc. ho. 1. cap. 88  in his Herbal) retaineth his scent and substance a hundred years. Burn also the pills of Oranges, Citrons, and Lemons, and Myrrh and Rosen; and the poorer sort may perfume their chambers with Bayss, Rosemary, and Broom itself. Make also a vaporous perfume in this sort; Take of Mastic and Frankincense, of each an ounce, Citron pills, Calamint roots, Herbgrass dried, and Cloves, of each three drams; make all into a gross powder, and boil it gently in a perfuming pot with spike-water and white wine. The second sort (I mean such as are sick of the Plague in Summer, or are the first taken with a dissolving heat) should rather burn sweet Cypress, Lignum Rhodium, Sanders, sprigs of Tamarisk, Gum tragacanth, Elemi, Cherri-tree gum, and a little Camphire. Likewise their vaporing perfumes should be of red-rose-leaves, Lignum Rhodium, and Sanders, with rose-water and Vinegar boiled together. So that according to the kind of taking, and the season of the year, is the air to be corrected in the time of pestilence, and not alike at all times with one perfume, which Marsilius 
Lib. de pesle.  Ficinus so diligently observeth, that he blameth many Physicians for their general preferring of this or that masticatory: some extolling the chewing of sage as one goes abroad, others the chewing of Setwall roots, others of Elecampana, Cloves, Angelica, or Citron pills; which indeed are best in a cold season; but in the hot time of the year and a hot Plague, the chewing of Coriander seeds prepared, grains, Sanders, and the pulp of Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, or Pearmains, is far to be preferred before them.  
The like may be said of sweet Pomanders strong of musk, civet, ambre, and storax; which are no doubt good correctors of the pestilent air; but yet in hot seasons and pestilences, nothing so good as the smell of a Lemon sticked with lignum Rhodium instead of cloves, and inwardly stuffed with a sponge throughly soaked in vinegar of red-roses and violets.  
But here a great question ariseth, whether sweet smells correct the pestilent air, or rather be as a guide to bring it the sooner into our hearts? To determine which question, I call all the dwellers in Bucklers berry in London to give their sentence: which only street (by reason that it is wholly replenished with Physic, Drugs, and Spicery, and was daily perfumed in the time of the plague with pounding of Spices, melting of gums, and making perfumes for others) escaped that great plague brought from Newhaven, whereof there died so many, that scarce any house was left unvisited.  

Of variety and change of Air.  
Hitherto of the correcting and tempering of distempered and infected air; which being clean and purified, may yet through ignorance of wilfulness be abused: For as Satyrus would needs kiss the glowing coal, and children delight to put their fingers in the candle, so some know not how to use this general nourishment, which is not given (as all other nourisments be) unto one particular man or Country, but equally and universally unto all. Now there be two sorts of air, as every man knoweth; the one open and wide unto all men, the other private, shut within the compass of a house or chamber: that permitted to any man which is in health; this proper to very many and sickly persons, who receiving but the least blast of the outward air upon a sudden, fall into great extremities, and make the recidival sickness to be worse than the former. Many, and amongst them, my Lord Rich his brother, can justify this, who almost recovered of the small pox, looked but out of a casement, and presently was stricken with death. So likewise one Harwood of Suffolk, a rich Clothier, coming suddenly in an extreme frost from a very hot fire into the cold air, his blood was presently so corrupted, that he became a leper; which is an ordinary cause of the same disease in high Germany, as Paracelsus and many other writers 
Lib. de lepra.  have truly noted. Again, some men tie themselves so to one air, that if they go but a mile from home (like to freshwater soldiers) they are presently sick: others are so delighted with variety, that no one air or Country can contain them: of which humour was Agesilaus, Photion, Diogenes, Cato, yea and Socrates himself, who 
Aelian. 7. de v r. hist. Plut. in vita. Photion. Sabel.▪ l. 2. c. 10 Plut. in vita. Porc. Cat. Coel. lib. 3. cap. 23. A. L.  sometimes lay abroad in the fields, sometimes at home, sometimes travailed one Country, and sometimes another, that being accustomed to all airs, they might (if necessity served) the better abide all. Furthermore in long diseases, it is not the worst, but the best physic to change airs; which few can endure that are tied in conceit or by custom only to one, and therefore that (of both fantastical humours) is the most dangerous. Besides this, the time of going abroad in the open air is to be considered; for some go out early before the dew be off, and the sun up, which is very unwholesome; others also walk at night after the dew falling, which is as perilous: for the dew to man's body is as rust unto iron, in so much that it blasteth the face and maketh it scabby (especially in some months) if a man do wash himself with it. Furthermore some men delight to travel in tempests and winds, which the very hedgehog reproveth, and the beasts of the field eschew by seeking coverture: for strong and violent winds, be (as Cardan calls them) the whales of the 
Lib. 10. de rer. var.  air, rolling clouds and meteors where and whether they list, beating down trees, houses, and castles, yea shaking otherwhiles the earth's foundation. Now as some go abroad too much, so others with over-fearfulness take the open air too little, sitting at home like crammed Capons in a close room, and not daring in a manner to behold the light; better it were by degrees to go abroad, then with such certainty of danger to stay at home; yet so that a calm, mild, and temperate day be chosen, lest we make more haste outward then good speed, and bewail the alteration of air through decrease of health. For as contrariety of meats make tumults and rebellions in our stomaches, so contrary changes of air upon the sudden, maketh dangerous combats in our bodies: Yea though a fenny air be thick and loathsome, yet suddenly to go dwell upon the high mountains in a clear air, is a posting to death rather than a course to life, and albeit a Southern Country be pregnant of corruption (for all trees lose their leaves first on the Southside, and on the Southside houses decay soon, and the Southside of corn is soon blasted, and malt lying in the Southside of a Garner, is first tainted with weevels) yet suddenly 
Cardan. lib: 10. de var: rer: c: 8.  to depart to a Northern soil, where the North wind chiefly bloweth, is to leave the Sea to be frozen in ice, and bringeth imminent peril, if not hasty death to the patient, yea to them that are otherwise sound of body: wherefore use the open air in his due time, season, quantity, and order; else shalt thou be offended with that nourishment, which simply of all other is most necessary: for as this invisible milk (for so Severinus calls the air) in time, season, and quantity, nourisheth these lower, and 
In Idaea med. phillip  perhaps the upper bodies: so being taken out of time, and longer, and lesser than we should, it is both the child, the mother, and the nurse of infinite mischiefs.    

CHAP. V.  
1. Of Meat, and the differences thereof, in Kind, Substance, Temperature, and Taste.  
PUrposing now to treat of Meats, I will keep this method. First I will show their differences: then the particular natures of every one of them: Last of all in what variety, quantity, and order they are to be eaten. Their differences be especially seven in number; Kind, Substance, Temperature, Taste, Preparation, Age and Sex. 
How many kinds of meats▪ there be.   
1. Concerning the first, It is either of vegetable things only by ordination, or of sensible creatures by permission. For whilst Adam and his wife were in Paradise, he had commission to eat only of the fruit of the Garden; being cast thence, he was enjoined to till the ground, and fed in the sweat of his brows upon words, corn, pulse and roots; but as for flesh, howbeit many beasts were slain for sacrifices and apparel, yet none was eaten of men 2240. years after the creation; even till God himself permitted Noah and his family to feed of every sensible thing that moved and lived, as well as of fruits and green herbs.  

Euseb lib. 1. de praepar. evang Alex. ab. Alex. lib. 4.  Nay the Indian Philosophers, called Brachmanes, did never a great while after the flood taste of any sensible creature: and though Nimrod the great hunter slew many beasts, yet flesh was even then untasted of the Babylonians 
Lib. primo.  (and many hundred years after) saith Herodotus. And verily till God would have it so, who dared to touch with his lips the remnant of a dead carcase? or to set the pray of a wolf, and the meat of a falcon upon his table? who I say durst feed upon those members which lately did see, 
Plut. dees. carm  go, bleat, low, feel, and move? Nay tell me, can civil and humane eyes yet abide the slaughter of an innocent beast, the cutting of his throat, the mauling him on the head, the flaying of his skin, the quartering and dismembering of his joints, the sprinkling of blood, the ripping up of his veins, the enduring of ill savours, the hearing of heavy sighs, sobs, and groans, the passionate struggling and panting for life, which only hardhearted Butchers can endure to see? Is not the earth sufficient to give us meat, but that we must also rend up the bowels of beasts, birds, and fishes? yes truly there is enough in the earth to give us meat, yea verily and choice of meats, needing either none or no great preparation, which we may take without fear, and cut down without trembling, which also we may mingle a hundred ways to delight our taste, and feed on safely to fill our bellies. Nevertheless we must not imagine, that God either idly or rashly permitted flesh and fish to be eaten of mankind, but that either he did it for causes known to himself, or for special favours showed to 
Symp. 8. cap. 8.  us. Plutarch writeth that hen's eggs in Egypt do hatch themselves in the warm sun, and that wild connies breed every month: so that albeit by their rites of religion the Egyptians were forbidden to eat eggs, or to kill for meat any living creature, yet necessity caused them to eat both, lest their corn should be devoured both in seed and blade, or they forced to do nothing else but to bury young rabbits and to squash eggs; perhaps upon foresight of the like inconvenience, God appointed men to eat flesh and fish: lest happily overflowing the earth by daily increase, there would scarce be any food left for man, and man should not be able to rule his subjects. But the chiefest thing which he aimed at in the permission, was (in my judgement) the health and preservation of our lives: for as before the flood men were of stronger constitution, and vegetable fruits grew void of superfluous moisture: so by the flood these were endued with weaker nourishment, and men made more subject to violent diseases and infirmities. Whereupon it was requisite or rather necessary, such meat to be appointed for humane nourishment, as was in substance and essence most like our own, and might with lest loss and labour of natural heat be converted and transubstantiated into our flesh. And truly whosoever shall with the Adamites refuse that Diet, which God and nature hath appointed; either because they think they should not, or because they would not feed upon living creatures: I dare boldly avouch they are religious without knowledge, and timorous without occasion; yea (unless naturally they abhor fish and flesh, as some men may) they shorten their own lives and do violence to nature.  

How meats differ in substances.  
2. Touching the difference of meats in substance: some are of thin and light substance, engendering pure thin and fine blood, fit for fine complexions, idle citizens, tender 
Gal. lib. de dissol. cont. Gal. lib. cib. de enchy. et. 1. de fac. alim.  persons, and such as are upon recovery out of some great sickness: as chiken peeper's, rabbit suckers, young pheasants, partridge, heath-poulse, godwits, all small birds being young, all little fishes of the river, the wings and livers of hens, cockchickens and patridges, eggs warm out of the hen's belly, etc. Others are more gross, tough, and hard, agreeing chiefly to country persons and hard labourers: 
Avic. 3. Fen. 1. tract. 1.  but secondarily to all that be strong of nature, given by trade or use to much exercise, and accustomed to feed upon them: as powdered beife, bacon, goose, swan, saltfish, ling, tunnis, salt salmon, cucumbers, turnips, beans, hard pease, hard cheese, brown and rye bread, etc. But meats of a middle substance are generally the best, & most 
Gal. ●. de alim. sac.  properly to be called meats; engendering neither too fine nor too gross blood, agreeing in a manner with all ages, times, and complexions, neither binding nor loosening the body, neither strengthening nor weakening the stomach, neither procuring nor hindering urine or sweat, causing no alteration in coldness, heat, dryness, or moisture; finally neither adding to the body by overnourishing, nor detracting from it by extenuating, but preserving it in such estate as they found it, restoring daily as much as daily decayed, and nothing or very little more. Of which sort may be reckoned young beife, mutton, veal, kid, lamb, pig, hen, capon, turkey, house-doves, coney, sodden lettuce, skirrets, almonds, raisins, etc.   

How meats differ in temperature and distemperature.  
3. As there is a certain temperature and distemperature of our bodies, so likewise is there in meats; that temperate bodies should feed of their likes, and distempered of their contraries. Wherefore God hath appointed some meats hot only in the first degree, etc.   

Hot Meats.  
Lamb, pork, pig, gosling, partridge, quail, thrush, sturgian, mullet, base, oysters, cockles: cream, butter, figs, sugar, raisins, sweet apples, ripe pomegranates, new hasselnuts, new almonds, asparagus, borage, bur-rootes, skirrit-roots, white thistle roots, hop buds, parseneps, wheat and rice.  
Others hot in the second degree, as Hare, roebuck, turkey, peacok, pigeon, duck, turtle, pickled oysters, anchoves, honey, ripe mulberries, new walnuts, pickled olives, preserved capars, pisticks, dates, chestnuts, artichokes, carots▪ potadoes, parsley, and radish roots, eryngo roots, nutmegs and saffron.  
Some hot in the third degree, as scallops, mints, taragon, onions, leeks, Alisanders', ●ld walnuts, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and pepper.  
Some are hot in the fourth degree, as skallions, garlic, and ramseys. Now whereas all meats hot further than the second degree, are reckoned by Physicians to be rather medicine than meat: I allow their judgement, for the most sort of men; but not generally in all. For in Scythia & some parts of Persia, as also in Scotland & Wales, many men's bodies and stomaches are so full of cold and raw phlegm, that leeks, onions, watercresses, and garlic is made a nourishment unto them, which would gripe, fret, & blister temperate stomaches. The like reason may be given, why Adders are commonly eaten of the people called Ophiophagi, and venomous spiders of many in Egypt. Yea, myself have known a young Maid, of an exceeding moist and cold complexion, whose meat for two years was chiefly pepper, wherewith another would have been consumed, though she was nourished: for it is hot in the third, and dry in the fourth degree.   

Cold Meats.  
Of cold Meats, God hath likewise appointed some of the first degree, as Cow-flesh, steer-flesh, coney, rabbit, young hedgehogs; Eels, lumps, olafes, fresh tunny, fresh sprats, fresh herrings, curds, and all sorts of pompions, millions, cherries, strawberries, peaches, some apples, pears, quinces, medlars, cervices: spinach, succory, sorrel, gooseberries, cabbage, colewoorts, pease and beans.  
Others cold in the second degree, as tench, pike, shrimps, crabs, crevisses, new cheese, prunes, damsins, apricocks, and most sorts of plums, lettuce, endiff, citrons, oranges, lemons, gourds, and cucumbers. Whatsoever exceedeth this degree in coldness can never be turned into our nourishment, howsoever some one body by a proper Sympathy or long usage (as Doctor Randal did) may digest and nourish himself with poppy medicines.   

Moist Meats.  
Meats moist in the first degree, are these and such like: Wild bore; lamprey, barble, cram, shrimps, crevisse, pine-apple-kernels, new filbirds, sweet allmonds, dates, asparagus, spinach, borage, hop buds, carrots, turnips▪ and french pease.  
Meats moist in the second degree: Hedgebuck, turkey, young pigeon, young ducks, young quails; fresh sturgeon, lump, olaffe, tunny, tench, eel, fresh oysters, ruen-cheese. Meats moist in the third degree are only fresh pork, and young pigs.   

Dry Meats.  
Neither hath nature omitted to provide dry Meats for them, who by nature or sickness are overmoistned: whereof some are dry only in the first degree, as peacock, heathcock, the dorry, and all fresh fish lightly powdered: strawberries, sour fruit, meddlers, fennel, artichokes, colewoorts, radish, saffron, and cheese curds throughly pressed.  
Others in the second in degree, as Oxe-beife, venison, hare, coney, partridge, turtle, thrush, blackbirds; mullets, crabs, perwinckles, cockles, honey, cinnamon, nutmegs, ginger; galanga, pears, quinces, soure-pomegranats, pickled olives, pisticks, chessnuts, succory, sorrel, persty, onions, leeks, lemons, citrons, beans and rice.  
Others in the third degree, as flesh and fish long salted, stock fish, old cheese, powdered capers, cervisses, mints, garlic, ramseys, scallions, water-cresses, cloves and cinnamon. Others in the fourth degree, as pepper, and all things by miscookery over-peppered.   

Temperate Meats.  
Temperate meats are such, as hardly can be discerned to be either hot, cold, dry, or moist, or if they can yet do, they never exceed, yea scarcely attain the first degree. Of which sort, a young pullet, a crowing cockrel, a grown capon, soles and perches, fine wheat, new laid eggs (eat white and all) being potcht, and all small birds being young, are to be accounted.   

How Meats differ in taste.  
4. Being now come to the fourth difference of meats, which consisteth in Taste, it is necessary to show how many kinds of tastes be found in nourishments; whereof some be abominable to certain persons, though good and pleasant in nature; Others contrarily desired and liked, though naturally not appointed for meat; which if you call a sympathetical and antipathetical taste, or an in borne tasting 
Meats of peculiar and extraordinray tastes.  or distasting, it will not be amiss: for though the words seem strange and hard at the first, yet time and wearing will make them easy and common. What is more unpleasant to most men's natures, than the taste of humane flesh? yet not only some women with child have longed for it, but also the whole nation of Cannibals account it the sweetest meat of all others. It is also recorded that Nero's, great 
Sueton. in Nerone.  gourdman, thought no meat pleasant but raw flesh▪ Fermius 
Sabel. lib. 10. cap. 10.  Saleucius loved the Sea horses so exceedingly, that he daily dived for them amongst the Crocodiles of Nilus, 
Laert. lib. 6. Naucl. de greg. 3. pontiff. Gaugen. lib. 3. histor.  venturing his life to save his longing. Plato thought that Olives had the best taste. Maecenas coveted the fish of Asses foals, whereby the whole race of Asses had been extinguished, but that he died in a good hour. The Germans once (and now the Tartars) reckon horseflesh for the sweetest and best meats, even as our Welshmen esteem of Cheese, Lancashire men of egg pies, and Devonshire men 
Vergil 3. Georg  of a brown whitepot. What need I write of Achilles, who in his nonage living with Chiron, desired most to feed upon Lion's livers? or of the Vandals, who long after Foxes; 
Gel. lib. 28 cap. 5. A. L. Herodo. lib. 4 Plin. lib. 6. cap. 24. Caelius lib. 28. cap. 2. A. L. Cardan. de. rer. var. Sabel. ex Herodot. lib. 6.  or the Zygantes in Africa, that covet Monkeys and Apes, no less than the Carmanians love Tortoises, the West Africans Lisards, the Egyptians Grasshoppers, the Candneans Serpents, the Corsicans and Maltanists young Whelps, the Romans and Phrygians timber-worms, the Allmans' Mites and Maggots of Cheese, and such filthy meats. Yea (if Herodotus an Sabellicus write a truth) the Budanes desire to feed on Lice, which a Muscovite abhors to kill; least unnaturally or unwittingly he might slay his own flesh and blood. It were strange to believe (yet Fernelius 
Lib. 6. cap. 3. Patholog.  writes it for a truth) how a noble man of France found a greater sweetness in quicklime, then in any meat beside, refreshing his stomach and hurting no inward part with the 
Trincavella lib. 7. cap. 5. de cur. morb. venture. 3: curate. 86.  continual use thereof. Others feed greedily upon rags of woollen cloth and wall-morter: and Anatus Lusitanus remembreth a certain young maid of twelve years of age, who did eat usually stones, earth▪ sand, chalk, wool, cotton and flox; esteeming their taste and substance better 
lib. 4: cap: hist. mir●b.  than of the finest and tenderest Partridge. Marcellus Donatus saw a girl so longing after Lisards and Neauts, that she would hunt after the one in gardens, and after the other in houses with a bough in her hand, as a Cat would hunt a mouse, and eat them without hurt▪ Albertus Magnus' (as Caelius reporteth) saw another wench in Collen but 
Coel. l. 11. c. 13. ant. lect.  three years old, hunting as diligently after all sorts of spiders, with which meat she was not only much delighted, but also exceedingly nourished. Yea Doctor Oethaeus 
Lib. observ. propriarum.  telleth a story of a certain Farmer in the County of Hirsberg, that feedeth chiefly upon potsherds finely beaten, batling no less with them then Mariners do with eating biscuit. And Joachimus Camerarius (my dear and 
In epist ad joann. Scls: eng.  learned friend) reporteth that a certain girl of Norimberg did eat up her own hair, and as much as elsewhere she could get; neither conld she be persuaded by parents or friends, to think it an unpleasant or an unwholesome meat. chose Petrus Aponensis loathed milk: The Inhabitants 
Io. Mat. à Grad. ep. de appetit. Cromer. l 20. Olaus, l▪ 20. c. 7 sept reg. Marant. l 3 de cogn. simp.  of the new fishing Land abhor Oil; many men cannot abide the taste of Cheese, others of flesh, others of fish, others of all sorts of fruit, and that Bartimew Marnta his father was almost dead of hare's flesh in a gallimawfery, it is not unknown to Physicians. Nay some are naturally (or by imagination) so perverted, that they cannot abide the sight of many meats, and muchless the last. What Soldier knoweth not that a roasted Pig will affright Captain Swan more than the sight of twenty Spaniards? What Lawyer hath not heard of Mr. Tanfiels conceit, who is feared as much with a dead Duck, as Philip of Spain was with a living Drake? I will not tell what Physician abhorreth the sight of Lampres, and the taste of hot Venison, though he love cold; nor remember a Gentleman who cannot abide the taste of a rab bet, since he was once (by a train) beguiled with a young cat.  
Nay (which was more) all meat was of an abominable taste to Heliogabulus, if it were not far fetched and very dearly bought; even as some liquorish mouths cannot 
Cranz. de reb. lituan.  drink without sugar, nor Sinardus hot stomach could break wine without snow; which dainty and foolish conceit, though it picks a quarrel with God and reason (after the nice fineness of Courtly dames, that abhor the best meat which is brought in an earthen dish) and maketh ulcers as it were in sound stomaches; yet that there is a natural liking and disliking of meats, and consequently of the tastes of meats, both the examples of men and women forenamed do justly prove, and even Spaniels and Hounds themselves (I mean of the truer kind) by refusing of Venison and wildfowl in the cold blood, can sufficiently demonstrate.   

Meats of ordinary tastes.  
Now let us come to the ordinary tastes of meats, which are especially seven in number; Sweet, Bitter, Sharp, Sour, Fatty, Salt, and Flash.   

Sweet Meats.  
Sweet Meats agree well with nature, for they are of a temperate heat, and therefore fittest for nourishment; 
Gal. 4. de fac. simp. cap. 7.  they delight the stomach and liver, fatten the body, increase natural heat, fill the veins, digest easily, soften that 
Isaac de univ. diet.  which is too hard, and thicken that which is too liquid; but if they be over-sweet and gluttish, they soon turn into choler, stop the liver, puff up lungs and spleen, swell the stomach, and cause oftentimes most sharp and cruel fevers.   

Bitter Meats.  
If any thing be very bitter (as asparagus, hop-sprouts, and broom-buds) they cannot much nourish either man or beast, unless they have first been boiled or infused in 
Gal. 4. de simp. fac. c. 10. & s. ejusdem c. 25.  many waters: for otherwise they may engender (as they do) some choleric humours, burning blood, killing worms, opening obstructions, and mundifying unclean passages of the body; but their nourishment they give is either little or nothing, and that only derived to some special part.   

Sharp Meats.  
Sharp Meats (as onions, skallions, leeks, garlic, radish, mustardseed, cresses, and hot spices) dry the body exceedingly, being also hurtful to the eyes and liver, drawing down humours, sending up vapours, inflaming the 
Avic 2. can. cap. 3.  blood, fretting the guts, and extenuating the whole body: Wherefore we must either taste them as they are, or not feed upon them till their sharpness be delayed with washings, infusions, oiling, and intermixtions of sweet things.   

Sour Meats.  

Gal, de fac. alim. c ult.  Sour meats (as sorrel, lemons, oranges, citrons, sour fruit, and all things strong of vinegar and verjuice) albeit naturally they offend sinewy parts, weaken concoction, cool natural heat, make the body lean, and hasten old age; yet they pleasure and profit us many ways, in cutting 
Gal. 2. de reg. ac. morb.  phlegm, opening obstructions, cleansing impurities, bridling choler, resisting putrefaction, extinguishing 
Aristot: 22. problematum.  superfluous heat, staying loathsomeness of stomach, and procuring appetite: But if they be sour without sharpness (as a roasted quince, a warden, cervises, medlars, and such like) than they furthermore strengthen the stomach, 
Anic in univers. Diaet.  bind and corroborate the liver, stay fluxes, heal ulcers, and give an indifferent nourishment to them that eat them.   

Salt Meats.  
Saltishness is thought to be an unnatural taste, because it is found in no living thing. For the very fishes are fresh; so likewise is all flesh, and every fruit, and all herbs which grow not where the sea may wash upon them. Wherefore howsoever salt hath the term of divinity in Homer, and Plato calleth it Jupiter's minion, and the Athenians 
Homer 1. Iliad. Plato in Timae.  have built one Temple to Neptune and Ceres (because even the finest cakes be unwholesome and unpleasant if they be not seasoned with salt) yet I hold it to be true, that salt meats (in that they are salt) nourish little or nothing; but rather accidentally in procuring appetite, strengthening the stomach, and giving it a touch of extraordinary heat, as I will more perfectly prove when 
Gal. 3. de fac. alim. & 3 de loc. off. c. 6.  I treat of sauces. For salt meats (especially if they be hot of salt) engender choler, dry up natural moistures, inflame blood, stop the veins, gather together viscous and crude humours, harden the stone, make sharpness of urine, and cause leanness; which I speak of the accidental salt wherewith we eat all meats, and not of that inborn salt which is in all things.   

Fat Meats.  
Fattiness is sensibly found not only in flesh and fish, of every sort, but also in olives, cocoes, almonds, nuts, pisticks, and infinite fruits and herbs that give nourishment: Yea in serpents, snails, frogs, and timber-worms it is to be found; as though nature had implanted it in every thing which is or may be eaten of mankind. And 
Gal. 5 de alim. fac▪ Isaac de uni●. & partic. diaet.  verily as too much fattiness of meats glutteth the stomach, decayeth appetite, causeth belchings, loathe, vomitings, and scour, choketh the pores, digesteth hardly, and nourisheth sparingly; so if it be too lean and dry on the contrary side (for a mean is best of all) it is far worse, and nourisheth the body no more than a piece of unbuttered stockfish.   

Unsavoury or unrelished Meats.  
Flashiness or insippidity (which some call a maukish or senseless taste) tasting just of nothing (as in water, the white of an egg, melons, pumpions, and pears, apples, berries, and plums of no relish) is of no taste, but a deprivation or want of all other tastes besides; which be it found in any thing that is dry (as in spices) or in things naturally moist (as in fish, flesh, or fruit) it always argueth an ordinary weakness in nourishment, howsoever extraordinarily (I will not say unnaturally) it may strongly nourish some. Avicen saith truly in his Canons, Quod sapit, nutrit: That which relisheth, nourisheth: yet not 
Lib. 2.  so, but that unsavoury things nourish likewise, though not abundantly nor speedily: for what is more unsavoury than fresh water, wherewith many fishes are only nourished? what so void of relish as the white of an egg? yet is it to aguish persons more nourishing then the yeolk; yea and stockfish will engender as good humours in a rheumatic person, as the best pig or veal that can be brought him.    

CHAP. VI  
Of MEATS.  
How they differ in preparation, age and sex.  
THe preparation of meats is threefold, One before the kill or dressing of them, another in the kill or dressing, and the third after both. Of which art Timochides Rhodius wrote eleven books in verse, and Numenius Heracletus (Scholar to Dieuches that 
Athen l. 1 c. 2.  learned Physician) and Pitaneus Parodus and Hegemon Thasius compiled also divers Treatises of that argument; which either the teeth of time, or stomach of envy having consumed, I must write of this argument according to mine own knowledge and collections.  
Whether an iron Ladle hinders Peas and Rice from seething? Whether roast meat be best, and best tasted, larded, barded, scorched or basted? Beasts killed at one blow are tenderest and most wholesome. Why all broth is best hot, all drink best cold. Some fish, flesh, and fruits never good but cold; some never good when they are cold; and yet we have all but one instrument of tasting.  

Of fatting of Meats.  
Lean meat as it is unwholesome, so it seemed also unsavoury 
Gal. l. 4. antiq. lect.  in ancient times; in so much that Q. Curtius' being sewer at Caesar's table, seeing a dish of lean birds to be set at the table, was not afraid to hurl them out at the window. Also the Priests of Israel, yea the Heathen Priests also of Rome and Egypt touched no lean flesh, 
Plut. in quaest. Rom.  because it is imperfect till it be fat, fitter to feed hawks and vultures, then either to be eaten of men, or consumed in sacrifice to holy uses. Hereupon came a trial how to fatten flesh and fish (yea snails and tortoises, as Macrobius 
Sat: 3. c: 13.  writeth) by feeding them with filling and forced meats; 
Suet: in vit: Augusti:  casting not only livers and garbage into fishponds, but also their slaves to feed their pikes (as did Vidius Pollio) and to make them more fat and sweet then ordinary. Hence also came it that swine were fattened with whey and figs, and 
Plin: l. 8. c. 51:  that Servilius Rullus devised how to make brawn, and that the Egyptians invented the fatting of geese, because 
Diod: l: 1: c: 6:  it was ever one di●h at their King's table. Amongst the Romans it was a question, who first taught the art of fattening geese; some imputing it to Scipio Metellus, others to Marcus Sestius; but without contradiction, Marcus Aufidius Lucro taught first how to cram and fatten 
Pl●n: l: 10: c. 20 & 22:  peacocks, gaining by it threescore thousand sesterces, which amounteth to 3000000 l. of our money. Cranes and swans were fatted in Rome with ox-bloud, milk, oatmeal, 
〈◊〉 es: carn:  barley, curds and chaulk mingled (to use Plutarch's phrase) into a monstrous meat, wherewithal they were crammed in dark places▪ or else their eyes were stitched up, by which means their flesh proved both tenderer, sweeter, whiter, and also (as it is supposed) far wholesomer. Hens, capons, and cockerels, and tinches were fattened by them of Delia, with bread steeped in milk, and feeding in a dark and narrow place, that want of scope and light, might cause them to sleep and sit much, which of itself procureth fatness. In Varro's time men did not only fatten 
Varro l: 3: rer. rust:  coneys in clappers, but also hares, and made them (of a melancholic) a most white and pleasant meat, according to that of Martial, 
Inter aves princeps pinguis (me judice) turdus,  
Inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus.  
Amongst the feathered knights, fat thrushes do excel,  
Amongst fourfooted squires, the hare deserves the bell,   
But here a question may be moved, Whether this penning up of birds, and want of exercise, and depriving them of light, and cramming them so often with strange meat, makes not their flesh as unwholesome to us as well as fat? To which I answer, that to cram Capons, or any bird, and to deprive them of all light, is ill for them and us too: for though their body be puffed up, yet their flesh is not natural and wholesome; witness their small discoloured and rotten livers; whereas Hens and Capons feeding themselves in an open and clean place with good corn, have large, ruddy and firm livers. So great is the diversity betwixt a crammed, I may say a strangled, and captive Capon, and betwixt a gentleman Capon feeding himself fat without art. Wherefore the best fattening of all fowl, is first to feed them with good meat (for like food, like flesh.) Secondly, to give it them not continually as cranmers do, forcing one gobbet after another till they be fully gorged, but as often as they themselves desire it, that nature be not urged above her strength; not in a coop or close room, for then the air and themselves will smell of their own dung, but in a clean house spacious enough for their little exercise; not in a dark place, or stitching up their eyes, for that will cause them to be timorous, or ever sleepy; both which are enemies to their bodies, and consequently to ours: for every man knows that fear marreth concoction, and sleepiness bereaving us of exercise, hindereth digestion. Yea young Pigeons whilst they are in the nest (be they never 
Avic: fen: ●: tract: 12:  so fat) are reckoned but an unwholesome meat; but when they follow and fly a little after the dam, then are they of great and good nourishment. The like may be said of the fatting of beasts, for they are not to be stied or stalled so close that they cannot stir, but to have sufficient room for to walk in, as well as to feed in, that they may be wholesome as well as fat, and not corrupt our bodies with their own corruption. So likewise fish kept in great ponds where they may rove at pleasure, are better than such as be mewed in a narrow and shallow ditch; which not only we shall find by inward digestion, but also by outward tasting; yea look what difference there is betwixt tame and wild Coneys, betwixt Deer fed by hand, and Dear fattening themselves in the Chase and Copses, the like shall you perceive betwixt forced fatness, and fatness gotten by natural and good diet.  
Another thing also is to be observed before the kill of any beast or bird; namely, how to make it tenderer if it be too old, and how to make it of the best relish: Patrocles affirmed, that a Lion being showed to a strong Bull three or four hours before he be killed; causeth his flesh to be as tender as the flesh of a Steer: fear dissolving his hardest parts and making his very heart to become pulpy. Perhaps upon the like reason we use to bait our Bulls before we kill them: for their blood is otherwise so hard, that none can digest it in the flesh, but afterwards it is so far from being poisonable, that it becometh tender and nourishing food. Perhaps also for this cause old Cocks are coursed with little wands from one another, or else forced to fight with their betters before they are killed. Perhaps also for these causes, so much filthy dung is brought from common lestals into great gardens; namely to cause roots and herbs to be fatter and tenderer than they would be: which intent I do not disallow, only I wish that no other soil were used, than what proceeded from the earth or from brute beasts. Concerning the manner of killing, it is divers in divers Countries. The Grecians strangled their Swine, and did eat them with their blood. The Romans thrust them through the body with a spit red hot, whereby death ensuing without cooling and voiding of blood, the flesh seemed far more sweet and tender. But if 
Plut. lib. de es. carn.  a sow were ready to farrow, they trampled upon her belly, bruising her pigs, and the kernels of her dugs with the milk and blood ot once, eating them for the most delicate meat, as some delight in the bruise or pudding of the Deer. Plutarch also avoucheth, that Sheep killed by Wolves, 
Sim. ●. quaest 9  Birds by Hawks, Geese by Foxes, Hares or Deer by Greyhounds, eat much sweeter, kindlier, and tenderer, then if they be killed suddenly by sleight or violence. Yea I have heard of a Lady in England, that let a score of Partridges be brought unto her, some killed by the Hawks, others at the foot of Dogs, others by men, she will discern that which the Hawk killed at souse from all the rest, having tasted but one morsel.  
Furthermore as there is a reason of cutting down wood for timber (namely in the prime of the Moon, or about the last quarter) and a special good season of moulding 
Plut. 3 Sim●os. quart. 10.  bread, and laying of leavens (this before the full of the Moon, that in the full itself) so there is likewise a season to kill Beasts Birds and fishes, and to eat the fruits of Gardens and Orchards. For experience teacheth that Hens are best in January, eggs in February, Lamb, Kid, Pigeons and Veal in March, herbs in April, Cockles in May, Bucks and Salmon in June, July, and August, Gurnards' in September; Oysters in all Months in whose name an R. is found, Pork, Bacon, and Cabbage in frosty weather, etc.  
Nay further it's to be considered, whether a Deer be stricken stone dead at a blow, though he be in season, or suffered to die languishing upon his hurt; for his skin be it never so well dressed, will soon shed his hair and wax wormeaten if it languish, whereas as otherwise it will hardly corrupt at all in a long season: wherefore no other reason can be given, then that by the one way natural heat is inwardly restrained, and by the other way of killing outwardly expired. So likewise there are seasons for gathering of fruit, herbs, flowers, seeds, and roots, which whosoever observed not carefully and diligently, he may seethe bones for flesh and (to speak more properly) stalks for lettuce. For all things have their several times, and there 
Eccle▪ 〈◊〉  is a season for each purpose under heaven. A time to plant, and a time to pluck up; a time to kill, and a time to preserve. The last preparation is after the kill of sensible creatures, or the gathering of the which are only vegetable: all which preparations are divided into five principal actions, garbelling, boiling, roasting, baking, and frying. Garbelling is a taking away of all things from any creatures, which are counted either hurtful or unnecessary: as the flaying of Beasts, pulling, and scaling of fouls, garbaging of all things that have corruption in their bellies, voiding of piths, cores, rinds, and stones in roots, apples, 
Macrob. 3 sat.  and plums, etc. For albeit the first cooks were so unskilful, that they roasted Oxen skin and all, yet reason after taught them to reject the outwards, as they had upon just cause emptied the inwards. The other four preparations are so necessary, as that all things in a manner are subject to them. What is raw flesh till it be prepared, but an imperfect lump? for it is neither the beast it was, nor the meat it should be, till boiling, roasting, bakeing, or broiling, hath made it fit to be eaten of men. Diocles being asked whether were the best fish, a Pike or a Conger: that saith he, if it be sodden; this if it be broiled; but none 
Athen. lib. 8. cap. 6.  better than another if they were raw: only Oysters of all fish are good raw (yet he was no Coward that first ventured 
lib. 4. cap. 3.  on them) being called of Athenaeus the Prologue of feast, because ever (as we use them) they were eaten foremost. Other fish being eaten raw, is harder of digestion then raw beife: for Diogenes died with eating of raw 
Laertius.  fish, and Wolmer (our English Pandereus) digesting iron glass and oyster shells, by eating a raw Eel was overmastered. Nay the Icthyophagi themselves feeding only on fish, do first either roast them in the Sun, or prepare them with fire before they eat them; having stomaches far hotter than ours, and consequently more proper to digest them. As for raw flesh (besides Butchers, Cooks, Poulterers, Slaughter men, and Cannibals) who dare almost touch it with their fingers? much less dare any grind it with their teeth, no not that Egyptian, who was Nero's gourman. 
Suet. in Ner. lib. 4 de. fac. simple. med. cap 8. & 16.   
Now as Galen saith of Chestnuts, that being roasted in embers, they are sweet and drying, being sodden in broth they are sweet and moistening; being roasted with their husk they eat delicately, being roasted without their husk they eat rank and sourish, being sodden without their husk they prove unsavoury: so may I say of all other meats whatsoever, that according to the kind of preparation, they either keep relinquish or alter their propriety. If hereupon you ask me what meats is best boiled, and what roasted I answer that flashy meats & naturally moist should be dressed with a dry heat (as in baking, broiling, frying, and roasting) and meats naturally exceeding in dryness and firmness should ever be boiled. Temperate meats may be used any way, so they be not abused by miscookery, which even Diocles knew many years ago, saying (as before I noted out of Athenaeus) that a Pike is best when he is boiled, and a conger when he is broiled; because that is a firm and solid fish, this of a moist soft and eely substance. But forasmuch as in my particular discourses of several meats, I purpose to touch their best preparing, I will surcease to speak any more generally of the dressing of meats, either before they are bereft of life, or in or after their death: only this I conclude, that who seeth not a great difference betwixt meats killed in season, and out of season, betwixt raw meat and parboiled, betwixt fried meats and baked meats, spiced and unspiced, salt and fresh; betwixt asparagus once washed and twice washed, betwixt cabbages once and twice sod, etc. is in my judgement deprived of his wits, or else over-wedded to his will. For who is ignorant that cabbages once sod loosen the belly, but twice sod (I mean in several waters) procure most dangerous and great costiveness? 
Lib. 1. de. fac. simp.  who knoweth not (as Galen affirmeth) that Asparagus often washed is a good nourishment, but otherwise so bitter that it wholly purgeth? what stomach of any such dulness, that being overmoist it confesses not amendment after the use of spiced, salted, baked, and dry roasted meats; and chose complaineth of hurt by fresh liquid sodden and unsavoury meats?   

The difference of meats in age and sex.  
6 Last of all meats differ in age and sex, for the flesh of sucklings is moistest, most slippery excremental and viscous; the flesh of old beasts are tough, lean, hard, dry, and melancholic: Wainelings less, hard, and dry then the one, and withal more firm, temperate, and nourishing then the other. But generally they are best for most complexions, when they are almost come to their full growth both in height, length, and bigness: for then as their temper is best so likewise their substance is most proportionable to our natural moisture, which is neither so hard that it is unchangeable, nor so thin and liquid that it is over easily dissolved. Concerning the difference of meats in sex, the males of beasts, fish, and foul are more strong, dry, and heavy of digestion, the females sweeter, moister, and and easier to be concocted: but gelt beasts, kerned fowls, and barren fish, are counted of a middle and better nature than them; as an Ox amongst beasts, a Capon amongst birds, & a Pike wounded in the belly can well testify; who therefore being unable to conceive again, fatten abundantly, (as experience daily showeth in our London fishponds) and becometh a most delicate meat. Now are we come to the particular natures of every meat, and first to them which are called by the name of Flesh.    

CHAP. VII.  
1. How many sorts of flesh there be.  
2. Whether flesh or fish were first eaten of, and whether of them is the purest and bestnourishment.  
IT will seem strange perhaps unto some, that they begin first to treat of flesh, which was one of the last foods appointed unto mankind by the voice of God. For (as before I touched) till 2240 years after the flood, we read of no flesh eaten or permitted to be eaten of any man. Neither indeed was it needful whilst herbs, fruits, and grain, were void of that putrifying moisture, whereto ever since the flood they are subject, and whilst men's stomaches were so strong and perfect, that in a manner no meat could overthrow them: and verily were the Sun of such power with us, as it is in Southern Countries towards the Aequator, to ripen our fruits throughly, and to take them as it were upon the Tree; no doubt being freed from their crudities and superfluous moisture, they would give as good nourishment unto us (and perhaps far better) than any flesh. But now our complexions waxing weaker and weaker through abundance of sin and riot, and our climate being unapt for wholesome and much nourishing fruits, let us give God thangs for storing us with flesh above all other Nations, making our Shambles the wonder of Europe, yea verily rather of the whole world. Now all the flesh we have is taken either from beasts, or birds, or things creeping upon the ground.  

The difference of flesh.  
Of the first sort some are tame, as the Bull, cow, ox, and calf; thc ram, ewe, weather, and lamb, the he-goat, she-goat▪ geled goat, and kid, the bore, sow, hog, and pig: Others willed, as Venison, red and fallow, wild bore, roebucks, hares, connies, hedgehogs, and squirrels.  
Amongst tame Birds these are most familiar unto us: Cock, hen, capon, chicken, turkey, peacock, goose, guiny-hens, duck, and pigeon: amongst wild foul some keep and feed chiefly upon the land, as Bystard, crane, heronshaws, byttors, stork, Pbeasant, Heathcock, partridge, plover, lapwing, cuckoo, pie, crows, woodcocks, rails, red shanks, gluts, woodsnites, Godwits, smirings turtles, stockdoves, rock-doves, ringdoves, jays, wood peckers, stonechatters, thrushes, mavis, feldefares, blackbirds, stairs, quails, and all sorts of little birds; as sparrows, reed sparrows, larks, bulfinches, goldfinches, thistlefinches, citron-finches, brambling, linnets, nightingales, buntings, wagtails, robinredbreasts, wrens, witrolles, siskins, oxeys, creepers, titmise, titlings, swallow, and martlets. Others live in or upon the water,, as Swan, Bergander, Barnicle, wild-geese, wild-duck, Teal, widgin, fly-duck, shovelars, cormorant, curtues, gulls, black-gulls, seamewes, coats, water rails, seapies, pufins, pivers, shell drakes, moor-cocks, and moorehens, dobchicks, Water Crows kingsfishers, water-snits.  
Of creeping things I know none but the snail in our Country, which some esteem not only for a meat, but also for a meat very restorative. And thus much of the kinds of flesh. Now let us come (for recreations sake) to the comparison betwixt Flesh and Fish; which of them is the more ancient, pure, and wholesome meat for man's body; whereat perhaps both Butchers and Fish 
Whether flesh or fish be the more ancient pure and whlosome meat.  mongers will be much pleased, and perhaps no less of fended: but I will write what I have read, and leave the determination to others that can better judge.   

Whether flesh or fish be the more ancient, pure, and wholesome meat.  
The Charter-Monks to the preferring of fish before flesh, use especially these arguments: First, That Christ did feed most upon it; for we never read but once that he did eat flesh; but that he did often eat fish it is proved 
Bald. in postillam Carthusianorum.  by many places, namely, Mat. 15. Luc. 5. 9 Mar. 6. 8. John 6. Furthermore he restrained by name no kind of fish from the Israelites, but divers kinds of flesh; which showeth that fish is the cleaner, purer, and more holy meat: for the action of Christ should be our instruction, and his works our imitation. Thus much said Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury, of whom Rainulphres writeth this story. When Baldwin was chosen 
●. ●olychron.  Archbishop of Canterbury, he swore that from the time of his enstallment, to his dying day, he would never eat flesh: whereby his body so decayed, that he fell into a consumption: An old woman meeting him on the way as he was carried in an open Horselitter, called him liar to his face: whereof being reproved by some of his followers, Why (said she) do you rebuke me? doth he not lie, for saying that he never ate flesh since his enstallment, when his face showeth that he surpassed the savages in eating his own flesh? For indeed by superstitious observing of his vow, he became an anatomy, and lived as a cipher amongst men.  
But to answer the Carthusians arguments, I say this; That Christ in the places of Scripture cited before, asked his Disciples what meat they had? and they answered, None but a few loaves and a few fishes; wherewith he satisfied himself and his Disciples, and above five thousand persons at one time: Neither is it to be doubted if they had had flesh, but he would have fed the people with that: For it was his property (which every man ought to follow) to eat with thanksgiving of that which was set before him, were it flesh or fish; as no doubt he did at the marriage in Canan, in Lazarus his house, and the house of Zacheus, and at the feast of the passover, which albeit (for aught we read) he did but once celebrate, yet reason and Religion teacheth us, that according to the commandment of God, he did every year celebrate it before, since the time of his childhood; else 
Exod. 12. 24▪  the Jews would have accused him as a transgresser of the Law, and by justice have cut him off from amongst the people: but as he submitted himself to circumcision (being then one of the Sacraments of the Church) so questionless after the years of discretion, he did yearly eat of the pascal lamb (for he came not to break any Law given by Moses, but to fulfil it) which cannot be fewer than five or six and twenty times at the least. As for the other argument taken from the restraining of certain beasts and birds by name, and that no fish by name is there forbidden: Saving Baldwin his grace's reverence, it is a very lie: For when God generally forbiddeth the Israelites to eat of any fish, that wanteth either fins (as 
Leu. 11. v. 9, 10.  the Poulpe, Periwinkles, Lobsters, and Crabs) or scales (as the Eel, Lamprey, Plaise, Turbot, and Conger, etc.) doth he not expressly forbid them to eat of Poulps, Periwinkles, Lobsters, Crabs, Eels, Lampres, Plaise, Turbot, and Conger, and a hundred fish more wanting either scales or fins? Fish is therefore no purer meat than flesh, neither can a Carthusian eat a Sole (being a meat forbidden the Israelites) with a sounder conscience than a piece of Beef or Swine's flesh.  
Finally, where he saith that the actions of Christ should be our instruction, and his works our imitation: Why do not those fishy Friars eat flesh every Maundy Thursday, sith Christ himself did so, whom we ought to imitate? But let these alone to the conformity of their 
1 Epist. ad Timorh. cap. 4. v. 3.  Church injunction, remembering also with St. Paul, to abstain from no meats which God hath created for our life and health.  

Hieronym: in Epist.  It is recorded by St. Jerom in his Epistles, that Seneca upon a foolish conceit abstained so long from flesh, and fed only upon fruit and fish (infected perhaps with the leaven of the Egyptian Priests) that when upon Nero's commandment he was to bleed to death, there did not spring from him a drop of blood. The like is written of 
Marul. lib. 1. decad. 1.  St. Genovese, the holy Maid of Paris, who (like the Egyptian Prophetess) abstained wholly from flesh, because it is the mother of lust: she would eat no milk, 
Polydor Verg lib: 3. cap. de rer. invent.  because it is white blood; she would eat no eggs, because they are nothing but liquid flesh: Thus pining and consuming her body both against nature and godliness, she lived in a foolish error, thinking flesh more ready to inflame lust, than fruit or fish, the contrary whereof is proved by the Islanders, Groenlanders, Orites, 
Plin lib. 7. cap 21. Diod. lib. 3. ap. 3. Herod. lib. 2.  and other Nations; who feeding upon nothing but fish (for no beast nor fruit can live there for cold) yea having no other bread than is made of dried Stockfish grinded into powder, are nevertheless both exceeding lecherous, and also their women very fruitful. Yea Venus the mother of lust and lechery is said to have 
Cic. 3. de nat. Dior.  sprung from the foam of fish, and to have been born in the Sea, because nothing is more available to engender ust, than the eating of certain fishes and sea-plants, which I had rather in this lascivious age to conceal from posterity, then to specify them unto my Countrymen, as the Grecians and Arabians have done to theirs. What Nation more lascivious than the fenny Egyptians, and the Poeonians? yet their meat was only fish, yea they fed their horses with them, as Herodotus writeth. Also in 
Heb. 2.  the Isle of Rhodes, the Mother-seat of a strong and Warlike Nation, the people heretofore fed chiefly of fish, abhorring with such a kind of detestation from flesh, that 
Ael. lib. 1. de vac: h●ss.  they called the eaters of it savages and bellies. And verily if a strong, lusty, and Warlike Nation sprang from the eaters of fish alone, why should we deny, that fish is as much provoking to venery, as any flesh. So then, I having fully proved that flesh is as lawful, as pure, and as holy a meat as fish; Now let us try which of them is the more ancient and best nourishment  

lib. de es carn.  Did we but mark (saith Plutarch) the greasy foulness of Butchers, the bloody fingers of Cooks, and the smell of every beasts puddings and offal: we must needs confess, that first every thing was eaten before flesh, which even still we naturally abhor to see whilst it is in killing, and few touch without loathing when it is killed. The Indian Philosophers. called Brachmanes, being at length induced to feed upon living creatures, killed fish for their sustenance, but abhorred from flesh. And though 
Euseb. 1. de prap. eu.  the Babylonians delighted much after Nimrods' example, in hunting and killing of wild beasts, yet (as Herodotus 
Alex. ab. Alex▪ lib. 4.  reporteth) they abstained from flesh, and lived wholly upon fruit and fish.  
For answer of which Objections, I oppose to the Babylonians, Abraham and the holy Scriptures; which making mention of a Calf dressed and eaten in Abraham's house, before ever any mention is made of eating of fish; it is very probable that flesh was foremost, after the general permission to eat both. To the Indian Sophisters 
Ge●. 18. v. 8.  I oppose Pythagoras and his Scholars, who being 
Gen. 9 v. 3.  persuaded at the length to eat of certain beasts and birds, utterly yet abstained from eating of flesh, perhaps 
Gal. lib. cap. 8.  upon these causes. First because it is a cruel and unmanlike thing, to kill those creatures which cannot possibly hurt the inhabitants of the earth. Secondly, what necessity is there to use them, Nature having replenished the earth with fruit, herbs, grain, beasts also, and birds of all sorts? Thirdly, Had fish been eaten first, no doubt it had been first eaten of the Islanders and Sea-borderers; 
Plut. & Symp. quest. 8.  but neither the inhabitants of Hellespont, nor the Islanders of Phoeacum, nor the Wooers of Penelope (bringing all manner of dainties to their feasts) are ever read in Homer to have brought or eaten fish. No nor Ulysses his companions are recorded to have made their Sea-provision of fish, but of flesh, fruit, salt, and meal; neither used they any hook to catch fish withal, till they were almost famished for want of victual (as you may read at large in Homer his Ulysses) which is a manifest argument, That fish was not used (or at the least not eaten of) till men were unfurnished of other meats.  
Last of all, whereas Plutarch objecteth how loathsome a thing it is to see Butchers and Cooks sprinkled with blood in killing and dressing flesh. I answer him, That the sight is not so loathsome to nature, but to niceness and conceit. For what God permits to be eaten, nature permits to dress and kill; neither rebelleth she more at the death of an Ox, then at the cutting down of hay or corn. Nay furthermore, sith all was made for man's use, and man for God, she giveth us liberty to kill all things that may make for the maintenance of our life, or preservation and restoring of our health. Hypocrates most wittily having showed, that some men are deceitful by nature, and that therefore nature taught them the art of making Dice (the instruments of deceit) he showeth consequently, that because nature is provident for men's health, therefore she hath likewise invented the arts of building, plastering, weavin g and tillage: wherefore (to imitate and urge Hypocrates argument) if nature have provided flesh and fish (that a substantial, this a more light nourishment for our bodies) how squeamish soever we are to see them killed, yet it is no unnatural thing to see it, no not to do it ourselves.  
Concerning the last question Whether flesh or fish be the better nourishment; I cannot answer better than as Galen did, being asked the like question of wine and water. For as wine is best for one man, and water for another; so likewise flesh is most nourishing to some constitutions, and fish to others. Timothy was young, but yet sickly and weak stomached, his youth required water, but his sickness wine; wherefore Paul, like a good Physician; advised him to drink no longer water, but a 
1▪ Tim. 5. v. 23.  little wine for his stomach's sake, and his often infirmities. So likewise Severus the Emperor being sick at York, of a hot gout, his Physicians forbade him all flesh, especially 
Sextus Aurel.  of the stronger sort; but he refusing their council, nourished his disease with forbidden meats, and soon died. chose Seneca was forbidden by Serenus 
Hieron in Ep.  the Physician to eat any more of fish, being too too waterish a nourishment for his weak body; which whilst he refused to do and forbore to eat flesh, his blood was all turned to a gelid water. So then in respect of particular persons, neither flesh nor fish be of better nourishment, but both alike: yet generally flesh engendereth the better, purer, and more perfect blood (as the very colour and face of men which use either of them apart, doth perfectly declare;) and consequently for sound men, it is and aught to be accounted the best sustenance.    

CHAP. VIII.  
1. Of the Flesh of tame Beasts.  

VEAL.  
Calf's Flesh is of a temperate constitution, agreeing with all ages, times, and temperatures. Calves are either Sucklings or weanlings: The first are of easier digestion, making good blood, and driving choler from the heart: So likewise is the weanlings, but somewhat harder; either of them agree with hot and dry persons, howsoever it is dressed; but to flaggy 
3 de fac. alim. c. 2.  and moist stomaches, Veal is unwholesome unless it be dry roasted; for roasted meats give dry nourishment, and 
Valthas. Pisanellus l. de esc. & potul.  boiled meats moist, as Galen writeth. The Italians are so in love with Veal, that they call Veal Vitellam, that is to say, their little life: as though it gave not only nourishment, but also life to their dry bodies: which albeit I confess to be true, by reason neither their Calf's flesh, nor their own bodies, be so moist as ours; yet in our Country it falls out otherwise through abundance of moisture; so that howsoever sound bodies do well digest it, yet languishing and weak stomaches find it too slimy, and can hardly overcome it: Did we not kill them so soon as commonly we do, namely, before they be fully 
Gal. 3▪ de alim. sac. c 7.  a month old, they would give the more sound and wholesome nourishment; for till they be five or six weeks old, their flesh is but a jelly hardened; afterwards it is firm flesh, void of superfluous moisture, and most temperate of constitution. Likewise in the choice of Veal, the Bull Calf is thought the sweeter and better flesh, whereas in all other beasts (for the most part) the female is preferred.   


Lib. de cib. bov. & mal▪ succi. & 3 de alim. fac▪ cap. 1.  BEEF.  
Ox-beef, the older it is after his full growth, the worse it is, engendering (as Galen dreamt of all beef) quartane agues, leprosies, scabs, cankers, dropsies, stops of the spleen and liver, etc. but whilst it is young, or growing forwards in flesh and fatness, it is of all meats by nature, complexion, and custom, most nourishing unto English bodies; which may easily appear in the diffecence of their strength, and clean making, which feed chiefly upon it, and betwixt them that are accustomed to finer meats. Choose we therefore the youngest, fattest, and best grown Ox, having awhile first been exercised in wain or plough to dispel his foggy moisture; and I dare undertake, that for sound men, and those that labour or use exercise, there is not a better meat under the Sun for an English man; so that it be also corned with salt before it be roasted, or well and sufficiently powdered before it be sod: for so is it cleansed from much impurity, and made also more savoury to the stomach: but if it be over salted, powdered, or dried (as commonly it happeneth in Ship provision and rich Farmer's houses, that keep beef a whole twelvemonth till they eat it) it is tough, hard, heavy, and of ill nourishment, requiring rather the stomach of another Hercules who is said to have fed chiefly of Bull's 
Athen. lib. 7. cap. 1.  flesh) then of any ordinary and common ploughman. Wherefore howsoever we may taste of it to bring on 
Isaac. 4 de 〈◊〉 dieta. c. 7.  appetite, let it be but a touch and go: for being eaten much and often, it will heat and corrupt our blood, dry up our bodies, choke the mesaraical veins, and bring forth many dangerous inward and outward griefs. The 
Macrobius 3. sat cap. 13.  Romans when they first ventured to dress an Ox (fearing belike what event might follow the eating of an unknown meat) roasted the Ox all at once, and stuffed his belly with all sorts of sweet herbs, and good flesh that the season yielded, making no small pudding in his belly, which the people called Equm Trojanum, the Trojan horse: because it contained no fewer kinds of meats then that did Soldiers; but had they known the wholesomeness of the meat, and our manner of dressing, they needed not to have mingled so many antidotes, and to have corrupted rather then corrected so good a nourishment.   

Cow Beef.  
Cowbiefe is supposed by the Irish people, and also by the Normans in France to be best of all: neither do they account so much of Oxen; either because they think the unperfit creatures, or rather (as I take it) because they know not how to use and diet them in the gelding. But were they as skilful in that point, as also in the kill and dressing of Oxen, as was Prometheus; no doubt they would make higher estimation of one Ox, then of all the fat Cows in Ceres' stall.  

3. Dealim. fac. est 2: & temperam.  Nevertheless I deny not, yea I affirm with Galen that a fat and young Heifer, kept up a while with dry meat, will prove a convenient temperate and good nourishment, especially if it be killed after the French fashion, as I saw the Norman butchers kill them in our Camp, whilst I lay there in Camp with that flower of Chivalry the Earl of Essex. When the Cow is struck down with the axe, presently they lay her upon her back, and make a hole about the navel, as big as to receive a swans quill, through which the butcher blows wind so long, till the whole skin swell round about like a bladder, in such sort that the beast seems of a double bigness; then whilst one holdeth the quill close and bloweth continually, two or three others beat the Cow as hard as they can with cudgils round about: which beating never bruiseth the flesh (for wind is ever betwixt it and the skin) but maketh both the hide to prove better Leather, and the flesh to eat better and tenderer than otherwise it would.   

Bull Beife.  
Bull Beife, unless it be very young, is utterly unwholesome and hard of digestion, yea almost invincible. Of how hard and binding a nature Bulls blood is, may appear by the place where they are killed: for it glaseth the ground and maketh it of a stony hardness. To prevent which mischief either Bulls in old time were torn by Lions, or hunted by men, or baited to death by dogs as we use them: to the intent that violent heat and motion might attenuate their blood, resolve their hardness, and make their flesh softer in digestion. Bull's flesh being thus prepared, strong stomaches may receive some good thereby, though to weak, yea to temperate stomaches it will prove hurtful.   

Lamb's Flesh.  
Galen, Halyabbas, and Isaac, condemn Lambs flesh for an over phlegmatic and moist meat: breeding ill nourishment, and through excessive watrishness slipping out of the stomach before it be half concocted, in cold stomaches it turns all to slime, in a hot stomach it corrupts into choler, in aged persons, it turns to froth and phlegm, in a young person and temperate, it turns to no wholesome nourishment; because it is of so flashy and moist a nature: all which I will confess to be true in sucking Lambs who the nearer they are killed to their birth day the worse they are: but when they are once weaned, and have fed half a year upon short and tender grass, I think that of all other flesh it is simply the best, as I will prove by divine and humane reason. For as in the new Testament, the Lords Supper materially consisteth of two such things, as there cannot be any drink or meat devised more comfortable nor more strengthening to the nature of man, namely Bread and Wine: so likewise the blessed Sacrament of the old Testament, could not conveniently be so well expressed as in the eating of that, which was the purest, most temperate, and most nourishing of all meats: and what flesh is that I pray you? Veal? Pig? or Goat's flesh? or the flesh of wild beasts? or the flesh of Birds? no, but the flesh of a sound weaned Lamb, of a year old, whose flesh is neither too cold and moist, as is a sucklings; nor too dry, and hot▪ as when it hath strength to know the Ewe: but of a most temperate constitution, fittest to resemble the thing signified, who is of all other 
Athen. lib. 1. cap. 4.  our best nourishment. Philochorus is recorded to have made a law that the Athenians should eat no more Lambs flesh: not because they thought it too tender a meat for men's stomaches (as some foolishly have conceived) but because the people found it so wholesome, pleasant, and nourishing, that every man desired it above all meats: in such sort that had not the eating of them been restrained by a severe law, the whole race of Sheep 
Cael. lib. 28. cap. 2. A L.  would have decayed amongst them. Upon the like reason Valens the Emperor made a law that no Veal should 
Diod. lib. 1. cap. 6.  be eaten; which was counted in old time a princely meat (for always it was one dish at the King's table in Egypt, though they never had but two) howsoever through God his singular blessing it is an ordinary meat amongst us in mean households. The best way to prepare Lambs flesh is sufficient roasting; for boiling makes it too fleshy and phlegmatic, and by over-rosting the sweetness thereof is soon dried up. Yea all Mutton (contrary to the nature of Pork, Pig▪ and Veal) should rather be too raw then too much roasted; according as the French men find by experience, who slash and cut a giggot of Mutton upon the spit, and with the bloody juice thereof (tempered with crumbs of bread and a little salt) recover weak stomaches and persons consumed. Wherefore howsoever some naturally abhor it (as my honest friend Signior Romano) and strong stomaches prove better with harder meat; yet without all question, a Lamb chosen and dressed in manner aforesaid, is for most men a very temperate nourishing and wholesome meat, agreeing with all ages, times, regions and complexions. Arnoldus Freitagius 
Tract. de Ver. vece.  in his natural history, saith that the hinder quarters of a Lamb being drawn with rosemary and garlic first steeped in milk, and moderately roasted at the fire, is a meat most acceptable to the taste, and also profitable to moist stomaches, for which it is else commonly thought to be hurtful. Also he assureth, that Lamb's flesh being well beaten with a cudgel before it is roasted, eateth much better and is far wholesomer: which I leave to be judged by the Cook's experience.   

Mutton.  

Why Mutton makes one live longer than ●●y meat.  Mutton is so generally commended of all Physicians, if it be not too old, that itis forbidden to no persons, be they sick or sound. The best Mutton is not above four years old, or rather not much above three; that which is taken from a short hilly and dry feeding, is more sweet short and wholesome, then that which is either fed in rank grounds, or with peas-straw (as we perceive by the taste) great fat and rank fed sheep, such as Somerset shire and Linconshire sendeth up to London, are nothing so short nor pleasant in eating, as the Norfolk, Wiltshire, and Welsh Mutton; which being very young are best roasted, the elder sort are not ill being sodden with bugloss, borage, and parsley roots. Now if some shall here object, that gelding and spading be unnatural actions; and that Eunuches are subject to more diseases then perfect men: inferring thereupon a reason or likelihood, that the like may be also in all gelded ware (and 
lib. 3. de alim. fac. cap. 1.  consequently in Muttons) contrary to that which Galen hath affirmed; I will deny all their positions upon good grounds. For even nature hath deprived some things of that which gelder's cut away; and that Eunuches are freed from many diseases (as Gouts, Baldness, Leprosies) whereunto other men are subject, experience in all ages truly avoucheth. Last of all, it is generally confessed of all 
lib. 1. de la. maison rushque.  skilful Shepherds, (and namely by Charles Steven and John Liebault) that Ewes and Rams are subject to far more maladies than Muttons; requiring greater cost, care, skill, and providence to maintain them in health.   

Ram's flesh and Ewes flesh.  
As for Ram's flesh and Ewes flesh (that being too hot and dry, this too excremental and soon corrupted) I commend neither of them, especially in this Country of ours, where there is (God bethanked) such choice of wholesome Weathers.   

Kid and Goat.  
As Lamb's flesh is lighter and moister than other Mutton, so is Kid more light and moist then Goat's flesh: because 
〈◊〉 de. vict. rat.  (as Hypocrates reasoneth) it is less bloody, and the blood which it hath is very moist, liquid, and fine. The black and red Kids are better than the white: and the younger they are (so they be above a fortnight old) the more wholesome and nourishing they are esteemed. Their flesh is soon and quickly digested, of excellent nourishment, and restorative after a great sickness: especially for young persons and hot stomaches, but naught for them which are old & phlegmatic. It is better roasted then sod, and the hinder parts are to be preferred because they are dryer and less excremental. They are temperately hot and moist, whilst they are under six week's age: for afterwards they grow to such heat and lasciviousness, that (before they are wained) they will after they have sucked, cover their own dam; after they are once wained, their flesh may be fit for strong labouring men, which would not so well brook a tender suckling; but for the most part of men it is unwholesome and of bad juice.  
The Old He-goat is suitable to an old Ram, save that it is more tough, hard, and unpleasant; his flesh is not to be eaten, till he hath been baited like a Bull to death, and 
Haly abb. s. theor.  when he is dead you must beat the flesh in the skin, after the French fashion of beating a Cow.  
The She-goat being young, is less hurtful; but an old She-goat is worse and of a more sharp and corrupt juice: rather provoking venery and sharpness of seed (as also the Male doth) then nourishing the body.  
A gelded Goat was unknown unto ancient Physicians, but questionless it is the best next to sucking Kid; for it is more moist through abundance of fat, and also of more temperate heat because it wanteth stones; in which I certainly believe a more violent heat to be placed, then in any part beside: yea whereas the liver draweth only from the stomach and guts by the meseraical veins, and the heart only from the lungs and liver, and the brain from all three; the stones have a heat which draweth seed from the whole body, yea from the bones and gristles, as Hypocrates 
Lib. de genit.  writeth and reason collecteth.  
Furthermore the tolerable smell which a gelded goat hath, showeth that his flesh is far sweeter: but He-goats 
Athen. lib. ●. cap. 24.  and She-goats are so rank, that a Fencer of Thebes feeding much of them, no man could endure his sweat. Also the chief Priest of Rome did never so much as touch them saith Plutarch, because they are subject to the falling 
i● Quest Rome  sickness, lecherous in life, and odious in smell.   

Pigg, Sow, Boar, and Hogg.  
Pigs flesh by long and a bad custom is so generally desired and commended, that it is credibly (though falsely) 
Sheep and Pigs, the younger the better.  esteemed for a nourishing and excellent good meat: Indeed it is sweet, luscious, and pleasant to wantoness, and earnestly desired of distempered stomaches: but it is the mother of many mischiefs, and was the bane of mine own Mother. A sucking Pigs flesh is the moistest flesh simply of all other; engendering Crudities, Palsies, Agues, 
Gal 3▪ de alim. ●ac.  Gouts, Apoplexies and the stone: weakening the memory (for it is moist in the third degree) procuring fluxes of the belly, and engendering most viscous, flashy and corrupt humours. Their flesh is hardly digested of a weak stomach, and their leather-coat not easily of a strong. The younger they are, the worse they are: yet some venture 
Plut. lib. de es. carn.  upon them (yea covet them) ere they be eight days old; yea the Romans delicacy was such, that they thought them dainty meat being taken blood and all out of the Sow's belly ere she was ready to farrow, eating them after a little bruising in the blood, no less greedily than some do the pudding of a bruised Deer. We do well in roasting our Pigs at a blazing fire, sprinkling them with salt on the outside: but if we stuffed their bellies with a good deal of salt as well as sage, and did eat them with new sage, and vinegar and salt, they would be less offensive. The Danes I remember (when I was at Elsenore) draw them with garlic as the French men do with lard: which is no ill correcter of their sliminess and viscous humour. The Boar-pig is not preferred before the Sow-Pig: because it is strong and rank.  

Lib. 8. ●. 51. in P●n▪ & Bucc●.  Boar's flesh (I mean of the tame Boar) is never good but 〈◊〉 it is brawn'd; which though Pliny avoucheth to be first invented by Servillus Rullus, yet by Plautus it seemeth to be a more ancient meat.  
The best way of brawning a Boar is this of all other, which I learned first of Sir Thomas George, and saw practised afterwards to good purpose. Shut up a young Boar (of a year and a half old) in a little room about harvest time, feeding him with nothing but sweet whey, and giving him every morning clean straw to lie upon, but lay it not thick. So before Christmas he will be sufficiently brawned with continual lying, and prove exceeding fat, wholesome and sweet; as for the common way of brawning Boars, by stying them up in so close a room that they cannot turn themselves round about, and whereby they are forced always to lie on their bellies, it is not worthy the imitation: for they feed in pain, lie in pain, and sleep in pain: neither shall you ever find their flesh so red, their fat so white, nor their liver so sound, as being brawned otherwise accordingly, as is before rehearsed. After he is brawned for your turn, thrust a knife into one of his flanks, and let him run with it till he die: others gently bait him with muzzled Dogs. The Roman Cooks thrust a hot Iron into his side, and then run him to death; thinking thereby that his flesh waxed tenderer and his brawn firmer.  

De diaet. partic.  Sow's Flesh is reckoned of Isaac, to engender good blood, to nourish plentifully, yea to be restorative if it be young. But an old Sow breedeth ill juice, is hardly concocted, and begetteth most viscous humours. The Heliopolitanes abstained from Sow's flesh of all others: First, because (contrary to the nature and course of all other beasts) she admits the Boar not in the full, but in the wane of the Moon. Secondly they demand, How can 
Plut. l. de Isid.  her flesh be wholesome, whose milk being drunk, filleth our bodies full of leprosy▪ scurf, tetters and scabs? Yea a sow is one of the most filthy creatures in the world; her belly is never void of scurf, her throat of kernely imposthumes, her brain so heavy and moist, that she cannot look up to heaven; or rather she dare not, being the 
Plut 5 f▪ mp.  rooter up, and so bad an inhabitant of the earth. Nevertheless I am of Isaac's mind, that a young Sow kept long from the Boar, sweetly dieted with roots, corn, and whey, and kept from filthy feeding and wallowing, may be made good and tolerable meat for strong stomaches, after it hath been powdered and well roasted.   

Pork and Bacon.  
Now concerning Pork and Hog's flesh, made of a spaded Sow, or a Hogg gelded, verily let us say thereof (as 
Plut. 5. symp.  Theon said of all sorts of swine) if it be not good for meat, wherefore is it good? his cry is most odious and harsh, his smell loathsome, his very shape detested: at home he is ravening, in the field rooting, and every where filthy, foul, unhappy, and unprofitable. All which hurts he recompenseth in this only one, that of all other beasts 
3. de alim. fac. c. 13.  (if Galen be not deceived) he most nourisheth: especially if he feed abroad upon sweet grass, good mast and roots; for that which is penned up and fed at home with taps drop, kitchen offal, sour grains, and all manner of draff, cannot be wholesome. In Pliny's time they 
Plin. l▪ 8. c. 51.  were so far from fatting them with such refuse, that (considering they were to be eaten of themselves) mwn usually fatted their hogs with milk and figs. But sith that course is more chargeable than necessary for Englishmen; either let their hogs feed themselves fat abroad with grass and mast, or at home with only sweet whey, and a little grounded corn, than which they cannot have a more sweet meat.  
Furthermore, to use Galens encomium or phrase of a hogg (whereby you may swear he was no Jew, nor Lopus no good Physician) howsoever nothing less resembleth a man, than a Hogg in his outwards, yet inwardly no creature resembleth him more: For the colour and substance of his flesh, the shape, figure, connexion, suspension, proportion, and situation of his entrails, differ little or nothing from man's body: and besides that (when he is of a just growth) his temper is also most like to ours. Thus much out of Galen for the praise of Pork; whom albeit Rea●dus Columbus, and Vesalius do oppugn in their Anatomies concerning the likelihood of a man's and a hogs entrails; yet none hitherto denied Pork to be a a temperate meat, being corned and roasted, or sodden after it hath been well powdered. Nevertheless, (to yield mine own opinion) I esteem it (by Galens leave) a very queasy meat, howsoever it be prepared, and to have in itself always, flatuosum chacochynicum & febrile quid. For if you eat it fresh, it is as dangerous as fresh Sprats to an aguish stomach: if you eat it corned, yet is it of gross juice, and speedy corruption, unless by mustard and sorrel sauce it be corrected: If it be sodden and powdered▪ green-sawce made of sorrel, is to be eaten with it, both to cool the fiery nature of the salt, and also to qualify the malignity of the flesh itself: If it be salted and made into Bacon, how hard is it to be digested in most men's stomaches, either boiled or fried? Yea the Caretanes of Spain (whom Strabo▪ writeth to be the best 
L. 3. de orb ●it.  makers of Sausages and salt meats in the whole world) and the Normans in France (whose Bacon flitches and jambons Varro extolleth) could never so dry Bacon, or make Pork into such wholesome Sausages, seasoned with 
L. 2. de re rust.  Pepper, Salt, and Sage, but that it needed a draught of Wine more than ordinary to macerate and digest it in the stomach. It is recorded that Leo the tenth, Pope of Rome, loved Pork so exceedinglv, that he bestowed above two thousand crowns a year in Sausages, mingling 
P. jov. in vita▪ Leon. x.  the brawns of Peacocks, with Porks flesh, Pepper, and other Spices, which were afterwards called Leonis incisia, Leo his Sausages. But when Hadrian the sixth his successor perused the accounts, and found above ten thousand Ducats spent by his predecessor in that one meat, he detested him (saith Jovius) as much dead, as he honoured him whilst he was alive.  
Finally, no Brawn, Pork or Bacon, should be eaten without Wine, according to that old Verse made in Salern School (which some no less account of then the 
Scholar sal c. 5.  Heathen did of Apollo his Oracles) 
Est caro porcina sine vin● pejor ovina;  
Si tribuis vina, tune est cibus & medicina.  
As Mutton tough, Pork without Wine  
Is not esteemed so good:  
But if that Wine be drunk thereon,  
'Tis Physic both and Food.   
Or if Wine be scarce, drink after such meats, a good draught of your strongest beer well spiced with Ginger, and then labour it out (as Ploughman do) for ease after gross meats is very dangerous; but strong labour overcometh all things.  
As for the entrails of Hogs, and especially the Harsenet 
Plin. l. 28 c. 9  (which Publius Syrus preferred before all meats) I find them to be stopping, and of bad nourishment; yet the Livers of Pigs are counted nourishing, but their Lungs are waterish and very phlegmatic.    

CHAP. IX.  
Of the Flesh of Wild Beasts, or Venison.  

Wild Boar, and Wild Sow.  
OF all Venison, Hypocrates most commendeth the flesh of a Wild Sow, because it is not only an excellent 
Lib. 2. de victrat.  nourishing and strengthening meat, but also medicinable to keep us from costiffness. Reason teacheth us that it is far above tame Pork or Swine's flesh: First, because it feeds more purely; secondly, because it hath not meat brought to hand, but gets it by travail, and hath choice of Diet to feed whereon it listeth. Thirdly, it is not penned up (as commonly our Swine be) in a little Close and stinking Sty, but enjoyeth the benefit of a clear air, which clarifieth blood, as much as any meat can augment it. It is a rare meat in England, and found only (as I have been informed) in my Lord Latimers' Woods, who took great pleasure in hunting them, and made also wild Bulls of tame ones, as our forefather's (more wisely) made tame of wild.  
If they be young, fat, fully grown, and taken in chaso, in the Winter time (presently after mast is fallen) they are unfit for few men's stomaches, being thus prepared as I have seen them dressed in High- Germany. First, after the flesh is throughly cold, parboil it in Rhenish Wine, wherein ripe Juniper berries were sodden: then having taken it out and sliced it, season every slice or cut thereof with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Ginger, and Nutmegs, of each a sufficient quantity, last of all make it in paste, with good store of sweet butter and it will prove a most excellent meat to be eaten cold.  
Wild Calves are common in Wales upon the Mountains: whence one was brought this last Christmas to Ludlow Castle, where I did eat of it roasted and baked; and by taste I find it more firm and dry, and by the effects of digestion, more wholesome and passable than our ordinary Veal.   

Red and Fallow Deer.  
Now concerning Deers Flesh, which Isaac in his old age so much longed for; some imagine it to be the worst meat of all others, and some conceive it to be the best. 
Gen. 25. L. 5 de vict. atten.  Galen numbereth it amongst hard, meclancholique, and gross Meats, comparing, yea almost preferring Asses flesh before it; ascribing also unto it ill concoction, ill nourishment, stops, and quartane Fevers. Roger 
L. de retard▪ fen.  Bacon thinks it one of the best meats, if it be so young that we can digest it: For, saith he (Quod diu sem tipsum, alios illud diu conservare potest) that which long liveth by its own nature, maketh also others to live long. But by his leave, we may then feed better upon Ravens than Capons, for these never live above seven years, and a Raven liveth to nine hundred years, if Virgil be not deceived. Plutarch thinketh Dear an unwholesome meat, because it is of a cold and melancholic constitution. And how 
L. quaest. nat.  proveth he that? forsooth 1. because he is fearful: secondly because if he were of a hot complexion (as the wild Boar is) his tears would be sweet, as his be; but the tears of a Dear (and especially of a Stagg) are salt: ergo, he is of a cold and dry constitution. But Empedocles was of sounder opinion, who ascribeth all tears to the working of heat: for as milk yieldeth whey by stirring, churning and pressing, so any violent passion (be it joy or grief, anger or pity) churneth the blood, stirreth the humours, and presseth the brain, whereupon tears (the wheyish part of them all) must needs ensue. Furthermore they are thought to be unwholesome, because Bucks and Staggs feed 
Plut. de sol. anim.  much upon snakes: yea as an Ass is to a Lion's mouth, or honey to Bears, or Bees to Martlets, so are Serpents to them a most desired meat; whereupon the Grecians call them 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, Serpent catchers. Might I be a sufficient Arbitrator between two so Learned men, I would determine the truth to be on either side: For indeed young Venison, whilst it is sucking, is very restorative; neither do I think old Isaac in his declining age to have 
Gen. 25.  delighted more in it in respect of taste, then in respect of wholsomness and goodness. Also a gelded Deer is neither too dry, nor too cold, but of a temperate constitution, and so void of superfluous or excrementitious humours, that his horns never grow again after he is gelt, which Aristotle, and all Philosophers impute to superfluity of heat and moisture. Nay young Bucks and Does, Hinds and Staggs (whilst they are in season) are a wholesome and delicate meat, breeding no bad juice of themselves, yet bearing often the faults of bad Cooks (which know not how to dress nor use them aright) but more often the deserved reproaches of greedy Gourmands, that cannot moderately use the good creatures of God; either eating venison when they should not, or more liberally and usually than they should. The Italians also 
Pisanel. de esc. & potul.  have this opinion of Venison, that eaten in the morning, it prolongeth life, but eaten towards night, it hasteneth death. chose old Venison indeed is dry, and perhaps too cold likewise; full of gross, clammy, and incorrigible humours: So that the same meat may be wholesome at some age, in some times, and for some certain complexions, which otherwise in contrary circumstances is unwholesome: yet is it never so precious as that a man should venture his life to get it by stealth, as many do, and have done in Noble men's Parks, yea perhaps in their 
lib. 6. de v▪ rer.  Prince's Forests and chief Chases. Cardan affirmeth that Bucks and Does have no Galls in their bodies, which is rather a sign of good temperature and lightness, then of any dull, dry, or heavy meat. This one thing only I will add, That Keepers of Parks, or at the least their servants and young children, have, upon my knowledge, fed all the year long of little meat else, and yet remained as strong, healthful, and active, as any persons could be. Finally, admit Deer be dry; doth not butter amend them? Suppose they be cold; doth not pepper and salt, and baking, give them sufficient heat? Thus, howsoever it falleth out, they are either by preparation (which none can deny) or by nature (as I verily believe) a good nourishment, so that they be chosen in their due season, just age, and moderately fed upon: Neither have we any reason from their unwholsomness to dispark our Parks, or to c●t down Forests provided for their succour; nay rather we ought to cherish them for the maintenance of Hunting, whereunto if young Gentlemen were addicted, as their Fathers were heretofore (they would be more ready (whereof Hunting is a resemblance) to Warlike purposes and exploits.   

Roebuck and Capreol.  
But of all Venison Roebuck and Capreol bareth away the bell; for whereas the forenamed beasts are discredited for their grossness of blood, the Capreol his blood is exceeding fine, through his swift running, and continual frisking and leaping from place to place, whereby his pores are ever opened, and all bad humours consumed by exercise, so that the very smell of his flesh is not heavy nor fulsome (as in other Deer) but fragrant, quick and delightful; neither hath his flesh the ordinary taste of Venison, but a peculiar and more pleasant taste: neither lieth it heavy upon any stomach, but is digested as soon as Kid; curing also (as Isaac writeth) the falling sickness, 
In diaet univ.  colic, dropsy, and abundance of fleam collected in any part. It is permitted to all indifferent stomaches, and forbidden only to Children, colerick constitutions, lean and consumed bodies, shrunk sinews, and burning agues. The Alps are full of them in high Germany, and some of our mountains of Wales are not without them. They are good roasted, sodden, or baked as red Deer; but you need not to pepper or salt them half so much, for their flesh (even when they are old) is easily digested, and scarce needeth a cup of wine (which other Venison necessarily requireth) to hasten their concoction. Furthermore, where all kinds of other Venison are not good but at certain seasons, yet the Capreol is never out of season: being alike wholesome in Summer and Winter, and alike toothsome, as the borderers of the Alps do best know, and our own Country men might perceive if they made trial.   

Hares.  

Lampridius.  Hares or Leverets (the beloved meat of Alexander Severus) taken in hunting, roasted with fresh lard, and 
Gal. de vict. atten.  eaten with Venison sauce, cannot offend a reasonable stomach. Galen saith that the flesh of a Hare prevents fatness, causeth sleep, and cleanseth the blood: how be it 
3 de alim. fac. cab. 1.  in another place he saith, that it breedeth gross blood and melancholic humours: which unless he understand only of old, lean, and unseasonable Hares, experience itself will overthrow him; For take a young Leveret, and let it blood as you do a Pigeon, the flesh of it will be very white, tender, and well relishing; yea little inferior to a midsummer Rabbit. Yet I deny not (with Hypocrates) 
Hares be often leprous.  that it drieth more than ordinary meats: for it provoketh much urine, and so accidentally moisteneth little, 
Lib. de fac. esc.  though it be moist enough of its own nature. Pissanellus writeh (and the Italians generally believe it) that eating of much hare's flesh maketh a man fair and merry seven days after; For which purpose perhaps they were 
Varro. 3. lib. agric.  so much in request amongst the Romans, who fattened young Hares in clappers, as we do Coneys, finding them so dieted to be a delicate and wholesome meat: tame Hares so prepared are good at all times but wild Hares are best and fattest in the hardest time of Winter. Certain it is, that much eating of Hare's flesh procureth leanness; because it is very diuretical, and common sense teacheth, that a man pissing much cannot be fat, because the wheyish part of blood (called of Hypocrates 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the sled of nourishment) is sooner expelled then that it can carry nourishment throughout the body. The neither Germans hang their Hares six or seven days in the cold and shadowy air before they flay or dress them: whereby they prove exceeding tender, though a night or two nights hanging were sufficient. We do usually boil the foreparts in broth, and roast only the hinder parts: and not without reason; for as in Kid and Lamb the hinder parts are driest; and therefore we seeth them, the foreparts over-moist and therefore we roast them: so contrawise a Hare is driest before, and moistest behind.  

Matthiolus. Com. in lib. 2. Diosc. cap. 18.  Now concerning such Medicines, as Matthiolus avoucheth to be taken from a Hare's harsenet, from his skin, gall, kidneys, bones, stones, hair, blood, and dung; I think it impertinent to the treatise of Diet, which showeth not how to give Medicines but to use nourishments.   

Coneys.  
It is not to be thought strange that Hypocrates and Galen, and all the Grecians wrote so little of Coneys, which with us, above all other Nations is so common a 
Strab▪ lib. 4.  meat. For as Ithaca never bred, nor fostered them, so in all Grece they hardly lived. Here (thanks be to God) they are plentiful, in such sort that Alborne Chase affordeth above a hundred thousand couple a year, to the benefit of good house-keeping, and the poors maintenance. Rabbit suckers are best in March, agreeing as well with old melancholic dry, and weak stomaches, as disagreeing with strong and moist complexions. A Midsummer Rabbits flesh is less moist and more nourishing; but a Michaelmas or Winter Rabbit is of firm, wholesome, temperate, and most laudable flesh: best roasted, because their nourishing juice is soon soaked out with the least seething, making good broth and bad meat. Choose the Female before the Male, the fat before the lean, and both from out a chalky ground and a sweet lair.   

Hedghoggs.  
When I considered how cleanly the Hedghogg feedeth, namely upon Cow's milk (if he can come by it) or upon fruit and mast; I saw no reason to discontinue this meat any longer upon some fantastical dislike; sith books, nature and experience hath commended it unto us. For as Martial made Hare's flesh the daintiest dish of the Romans, 
2 de vict. rat.  so in Hypocrates time the Hedghogg was not of least account among the Grecians; which he commendeth for an excellent nourishment, were it not something 
Jas. Prat.  too moist and diuretical. Nay (as some affirm) it nourisheth plentifully, procureth appetite and sleep, strengtheneth Travellers, preserveth Women with child from miscarrying, 
Jo. Necker. Syntax. 3.  dissolveth knots and kernelly tumors, helps the Lepry, Consumption, Palsy, Dropsy, Stone, and Convulsion; only it is forbidden unto Melancholic and Phlegmatic persons, and such as are vexed with Piles or Hemorhoids.   

Squirrels.  
Squirrels are much troubled with two diseases, Choler and the Falling-sickness; yet their hinder parts are indifferent good, whilst they are young, fried with parsley and butter: but being no usual nor warrantable good meat, let me skip with them and over them to another tree; for it is time to write of the winged nation, which promise us a second course of more dainty, I will not say of more wholesome meats. Neither shall any discourse 
Plin. lib. 8. c. 43  of Ass' flesh (which Maecenas so highly loved, that all Italy was too little to find him Asses enough) nor of horse 
Nauclerus.  flesh (for longing after which Gregory the third excommunicated the Germans) nor of Fox's flesh (which the Vandals eat for restorative) nor of Lion's flesh (wherewith 
Virg. 3. Georg. Guagnimus.  Achilles was dieted in his pupillage) nor of Bear's flesh (which the Moscovite calls his great venison) nor of Ape's flesh though it most resembleth a man (which the Zygantes in Africa highly esteam & eat of in their solemn feasts) nor of Lysards, Tortoises, or any other fourfooted beasts: nor of man's flesh, albeit the Cannibals 
lib: 2. de gest. Emanu. Athen. lib. 10. cap. 1.  praise it above all other (as Osorius writeth) and Cambletes King of Lydia having eaten of his own wife, said he was sorry to have been ignorant so long of so good a dish. As for the flesh also of young puppies (commended of Hypocrates 
2 de vict. rat. lib. 3. de. alim. fac. cap. 1.  & afterwards of Galen) howsoever in the Isles of Corsica & Alalta they are still esteemed as good meat, yet Cardan saith in his divers history, that they made the people like to dogs, that is to say, cruel, stout, rash, bold, and nimble. Wherefore leaping over these insolent and bad meats, which neither use nor reason hath confirmed. I now to come treat of Birds and fowl, and then of fish, and the fruits of the earth, and waters according to my first division.    

CHAP. 10.  
Of the Flesh of tame Birds.  
THat the Flesh of tame foul nourisheth more than wild foul, Isaac the Physician proveth by three 
S. partic. Diaet.  arguments. First, because they are more usually eaten of, and so by custom (a second nature) made more agreeable to our stomaches. Secondly, where all other Birds fly from us, and are not gotten without cost and travel: nature hath caused tame Birds to converse with us, and to offer themselves (as it were) to be killed at our pleasure: which verily she would never have done, had they been of a small or a bad nourishment. Thirdly, wild foul (for the most part) especially such as fly far for a little meat, and trust more to their wings then their feet, though they are more light in digestion, because they are of a more spirituous & airy substance; yet they are not of so abundant nourishment as tame household Birds, which feed not at random of what they can get, but of good corn, such as men themselves eat, and therefore most fit to nourish man.  
Now of all kind of fowl, remember that the youngest is tenderest and lightest; old Birds flesh is heaviest, but they which are proceeding to their full growth are most nourishing; for ungrown Birds (and much more nestlers) give but a weak thin and gelly-like substance, old Birds are tough and dry; those which are almost fully grown are of a more fleshy and firm nature.  
Furthermore all Birds feeding themselves abroad fat with wholesome meat, are of better nourishment than such as be crammed in a coop or little house: for as prisoners smell of the Gaol, so do they of their own dung.  
And thus much generally of birds: Now let us come to every particular.  

Pulli Gallenacei.  

2 can. & Fen. 3. t●. 1.  Chickens (saith Avicen) are so pure and fine a meat, that they engender no excrements in our bodies, having in themselves no illaudable substance: Wherefore Caius' 
Pisanel▪ de esc. & potul. ex. Plinio.  Famius being sick of a burning fever which had almost consumed all his flesh, was advised by his Physicians to eat of no other meat than Chickens: whereby he recovered his consumption; and the eleventh year after the second Carthaginian Wars, made a Law, that nothing but Chickens or young Pullet's fed in the Camp should be brought to him at his meals. The young Cockerels are counted the best in this kind, being of all flesh the most commendable, nourishing strongly, augmenting seed, and 
Joach. Curaeus. in situanim  stirring up lust: For which purpose Boleslaus Duke of Silesia did eat thirteen Cock-chickens at a meal; whereof he died without having his purpose fulfilled, because he knew not how to use so wholesome a creature.  
We do not amiss in England to eat sodden Chickens and Bacon together, for if they were eaten first, and Bacon after, they would oversoon be digested, and if they were eaten after Bacon, they would be corrupted: but 
Platina lib. 6. cap. 16. Bucinus lib: 6: cap: 9:  they are best being roasted, because they are a moist meat; and if they be sauced with Sorrel and Sugar, or with a little Butter and Grape-Verjuice, they are a most temperate meat for weak stomaches (as Platina and Bucinus set down) for no man I think is so foolish as to commend them to Ploughman and Besomers. White Chickens are found by experience to be hardest of digeston, as Gilbert our Countryman writ a great while since: Yet Griunerius preferreth them for Hectic persons, because they are coldest and moistest of complexion. They are all best in Summer, as chose Pullet's and Hen's be best in Winter. Cock-chickens are best before they crow loud, Hen-chickens before the cock offereth to tread them.   

Galli.  

Gal. 3. de alim▪ fac.  Cock's Flesh, the more old it is, the less it nourisheth; but if they be young, and kept from their Hens, and dieted with white bread and milk, or wheat steeped in milk, they recover men out of Consumptions, and Hectic fevers: and then their stones, livers, and loins, are of excellent good nourishment: being sodden they are nothing worth, for their goodness is all in the broth: as for their flesh, it is good for nothing but to dry and bind the stomach. Galen saith, that as the broth of a Hen bindeth 
l. & vict. atten.  the body, and the flesh loosneth the same; so chose the broth of a Cock loosneth, and the flesh bindeth. They of the game are esteemed most wholesome; called of the Romans, Medici galli, Cocks of Physic, because the Physicians most commended them: Amongst which, if I should prefer the Kentish kind for bigness and sweetness, I suppose no injury to be done to any Shire of England. Choose the youngest (as I said) for nourishment: 
Rhas'. 23. Cont. Avenz. 1. & 2. Theisir. Halya. s. theor.  for if once he be two years old, his flesh waxeth brackish, tough, and hard of digestion, fitter to be sodden in broth for the loosning of the belly, than any way to be dressed for increase of nourishment.   

Gallinae.  
Hens are best before they have ever laid, and yet are full of eggs; they also are best in January, and cold months, because long rest and sleep in the long nights makes them then fattest. Their flesh is very temperate 
Elluch. c. 2. l. 3  (whilst they are young) of good juice, and large nourishment, strengthening natural heat, engendering good blood, sharpening a dull appetite, quickening the eyesight, nourishing the brain and seed, and agreeing with all ages and complexions; for they are neither so hot as to turn into choler, nor so cold as to turn into fleagm, nor so dry as to be converted into melancholy (and yet Rhasis imagineth them to have a secret property of breeding the Gout and Hemorrhoids) but turn wholly, or for the most part into blood, making a lively colour in the face, and quickening both the eyesight and every sense. Pullet's 
Rhas'. 24. Con.  flesh (saith Avicen) helpeth the wit, cleareth the voice, and increaseth the seed, which is a manifest argument that it nourisheth greatly; which also Galen confirmeth by many other arguments; but that argument of increasing seed is the chiefest of all, seed being the superfluity or abundance of nourishment. Hen's flesh is sweetest, when they are not too much fed, but dig out their meat with 
3 de fac alim.  their heels in a clean flour; for exercise consumeth the superfluous moisture, which else cannot but make them more unpleasant. Nevertheless the Delians used to fat them with bread steeped in milk, and Platina, Apicius, and Stendelius show many ways to fatten them; but the best way is to let them fat themselves with pure corn cast amongst chaff, that by exercise of their legs in shuffling and 
Plin. lib. 10. c. 1  scraping they may make their flesh to eat better, and prove more wholesome; and yet by your leave (Mr. Poulter) the fattest Hen or Capon is not wholesomest, but that which is of a middle fatness; for as in a man too much fatness is both a cause of diseases, and a disease itself, so falleth it out in their bodies; which how can they be wholesome meat unto others, when they are diseased in themselves?  
Of a black Hen the broth is whitest, and of a black Goat the milk is purest; the most part of Hens and Hares are scurvy and leprous.   

CAPI.  
Capons of seven or eight months' age, fattened in an open air, on a clean flour with pure meat, are preferred by all Physicians (old or modern, Greeks or Latins) before all meats. And to say the truth, what dish can any Cooks-shop afford, that can be compared with a boiled or roasted Capon? which helpeth appetite, openeth the breast, cleareth the voice, fatneth lean men, nourisheth all men, restoreth sick-men, hurteth none but the idle, tasteth pleasantly, digesteth easily; which is also more solid than the flesh of Pullet's, more tender than Cocks, more familiar to our nature then Pheasants or Partridges; not so dry as a Cock to be slowly digested, not so moist as a chicken, to be soon corrupted; but equally affected and tempered in all qualities, engendering much blood and yet unoffensive, engendering much seed without unnatural sharpness or heat: finally the flesh of Capons is so mild, temperate, and nourishing, that Faventinus fears not to make it the ground 
cap. de phthis. Dialog. 3▪  of his restorative electuary; yea Aloisius Mundella thinketh him to be desperately consumed, whom Capon-gellies and culliss cannot recover.  
Concerning the preparation of them, I commend them roasted for moist stomaches; but being boiled with sweet marrow in white broth, they are of speedier, though not of stronger nourishment. Now if a Capon be so wholesome a meat, why should we not also by stitching up some veins, or searing them in the loins, try whether we may not likewise make Hen-capenets? which the Italians practice to good purpose, and make them exceeding fat; but yet in Pisanels judgement they eat too moist. One 
lib. Creophag.  word more of the Etymology of a Capon; which some derive from the English by an Irony, Capon; because he hath not his cap on: others from the Italian, Capone, that is to say, qua pone, set it hither, because it is an excellent 
lib. nat. histor.  dish; but I like Fritagius his Etymology best of all, Caponem dicimus quasi caput omnium: We call it a Capon saith he in th● Latin, because it is Caput omnium, the head or chief of all other meats. And thus much of a Capon, whose excellencies had the heralds known when Dr. Capon bought his arms of them, I see no reason why they should have preferred into his Scutcheons three Cocks, all being nothing equivalent to one Capon.   

Galli Africani. Meleagrides.  
Turkeys, though they be very hardly brought up, and require great cost for their feeding, yet their flesh is most dainty and worthy a Prince's Table. They were first brought from Numidia into Turkey and thence to Europe, whereupon they were called Turkeys. There are some which lately brought hither certain chequered Hens and Cocks out of new Guiny, spotted white and black like a Barber's apron; whose flesh is like to the flesh of Turkeys, & both of them like the flesh of our hens & cockchickens, but that they be two parts hotter and moister than ours. The youngest, fatted in the fields or at the barn door, killed also in Winter rather than in Summer, and hanged a day and night before they be dressed, are wholesomest to be eaten and of best nourishment. Their flesh recovereth strength, nourisheth plentifully, kindleth lust, agreeth with every person and complexion, saving such as be of too hot a temper, or inclined to rheums or gouts; it must be throughly roasted, and if it be sticked full of cloves in the roasting, or when it is to be baked (which are the two best ways to cook a Turkey) it will soak up the watrishness, and make it of speedier digestion.   

PAVONES.  
Peacock's are (as Poets fain) the beloved Birds of Juno: which none durst kill in old time, for fear of that jealous and revengeful Goddesses displeasure. Among the Romans Quintus Hortensius was the first that ever brought 
Macrob. 3. sat. cap. 13.  them to the table; whose commendation made them so desired, that within a while a Peacock's egg was sold for ten pieces of silver, and his kacrsas for twenty times as much. Afterwards Marcus Lurco seeing that old and 
Pli. l. 10. ●. 20.  lean Peacocks grew to such a rate, he began to cram them fat whilst they were young, and gained thereby in a short time six thousand Sesterces.  

Paul Jou. in vita Leon. X.  Leo the tenth (that noble Epicurean Pope) made their brawns into Sausages, allowing therefore every year many hundred Ducats. It is strange that S. Austin writes 
l. de civet. Dei.  of Peacock's flesh, namely that in a twelve month it corrupteth not after it is dressed: Nay Kiranides avoucheth, that a Peacock's flesh will not putrify in thirty years, but remaineth then as sound and sweet as if it had been new killed; which whether it proceed of the toughness and sinewy constitution, or the feeding upon Serpents (as some imagine) I will not now determine: this I only observe, that being once above a year old, their flesh is very hard, tough, and melancholic, requiring a strong stomach, much wine, and afterwards great exercise to overcome it. It is very ill for them that are molested with the Hemorrhoids, and such as live slothfully.  

Gal. 3 de alim. fac. Halyab: s. theo.  Concerning their preparation, Galen appointeth them to hang upon a hook fifteen days, but Haliabbas twice fifteen before they are dressed. The Italians after they are drawn, stuff their bodies full of nettles (which softeneth the hardest cheese being laid amongst them, and then they either bury it in sand, or hang it in a cold dry place, with a great weight at his heels; and so within a fortnight it becomes very tender. Plutarch reports out of his countriments 
Plut symp. 7▪ quest. 10.  experiments, that an old Cock, or an old Peacock, or any hard flesh, hanging but one night on a figtree, waxeth very tender by morning: others ascribe as much to the hanging of them upon a brazen hook, which I permit to trial; and wish both as true in effect, as the reasons why they should be so are learnedly disputed. As for young Peacocks, fed at home, with wholesome and pure meat (as bread corn and curds) no doubt they are very good meat, yielding not only a taste extraordinarily strange and pleasant, but also giving good nourishment: the older sort is best roasted with lard; the younger without lard, both should be well soused in pure wine; for without it they are unwholesome.   

Anseres.  

de Enchym. & Caroche.  Galen commendeth nothing in a Goose beside the Giblets, Stomach, and Liver, sodden in broth: which whether 
l de. esc. & po●.  Scipio Metellus, or Marcus Sestius first noted, Pisanellus durst not decide; but had he been as conversant in Pliny, as he might have been, he should have read, that a question was moved in Rome, who did first fatten geese: 
Plin. l. 10. c. 22  some imputing it to Scipio and some to Sestius. But Messalinus Cotta without all controversy was the first, that ever taught how to dress and use their Giblets.  

Diod. l. 1. ca 6  Nevertheless sith the Kings of Egypt feed usually but on two dishes, Geese and Veal; either custom hath made them a harmless meat, or else they are not so hard, hot, aguish, and melancholic a meat as some suppose them. 
Jas. Prat. 1. lib. Diaet.  Jason Pratensis saith, that the Jews have so hard a flesh, so foul a skin, so loathsome a savour, and so crooked conditions, because they eat so many Geese. Indeed 
Plut. in quest. Rom.  their exceeding watchfulness, moody disposition, and blackness of flesh, argue a melancholic constitution; yet being taken whilst they are young, green feathered, and well fatted with wholesome meat, and eaten with 
Lege Heresbachium, li. 4. de re rust.  sorrel sauce to correct their malignity (if any malignity can remain after such dieting) no doubt their flesh is as nourishing as it is pleasant and sweet. But of all other a young stubble goose feeding itself fat in wheaten fields, is the best of all; being neither of too moist nor too dry a flesh, but a middle constitution. If any Goose be eaten above four months' old, it is badly digested without Garlic sauce, exercise, and strong drink. Fritagius, in his Creophagia, having set down that young Geese are over-moist, and old Geese very aguish, appointeh them to be both corrected in this sort. Before they be killed make them to receive the smoke of Borax down into their bodies three or four times together; then stuff them with spices and sweet herbs, and roast them throughly; which is a very good way to correct their superfluous moisture; but nothing available for their aguishness.  

In hort▪ sand.  Savanarola maketh Geese of a very hot constitution, Albertus maketh them very cold; their flesh is hard to digest, and yet more moist (saith Galen) then of any water-foul besides: but their natural feeding shows them to be hot and dry, as Savanarola writeth; for they drink infinitely often, delight to be in the coldest waters, and feed most gladly upon Lettuce, Endiff, Purcelane, Trifoil, Duck's meat and Sowthistle. They are so tame and obsequious to them that usually feed and dieted them, that (if Pliny saith truth) they were driven (like sheep) from Brabant and Picardy to Rome on foot; but I fear me whilst he did so excessively commend their obedience, he did 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, play the very Goose himself.   

Cygni.  
Swans flesh was forbidden the Jews, because by them the Hieroglyphical Sages did describe hypocrisy; for as Swans have the whitest feathers and the blackest flesh of all birds, so the heart of Hypocrites is contrary to their outward appearance.  
So that not for the badness of their flesh, but for resembling of wicked men's minds they were forbidden: for being young they are not the worst of meats; nay if they be kept in a little pound and well fed with Corn, their flesh will not only alter the blackness, but also be freed of the unwholesomeness; Being thus used, they are appointed to be the first dish at the Emperor of 
Lege Davidem Chytr. in descript. Russiae.  Moscovie his table, and also much esteemed in East-Friezland.  
Nevertheless I deny not but that naturally they are unwholesome, for their flesh is hard and black; and all flesh the blacker it is, the heavier it is, the whiter the lighter; and the more red the more inclining to heaviness, the less red the more inclining to lightness and easiness of digestion: which being once written for a general rule, needs not (I hope) hereafter to be repeated.   

Anates.  
Tame Ducks feed filthly, upon frogs, toads, mud, waterspiders, and all manner of venomous and foul things: 
lib. volatilum.  Wherefore it is not untruly said of Gesner, that the best part of a Duck are his feathers; for his flesh is hotter 
Gal. 3 de alim. fac.  than of any tame fowl, and withal toomoist, hard, gross, of slow digestion, and very excremental; yea furthermore, 
Gal. de comp. in sec. gen.  so aguish, that once or twice it brought Galen himself into a fever, while he desired to try the operation of it.  
Nevertheless young Ducklings fed with grinded malt and cheese curds, drinking nothing but milk (or chalkwater) 
Isaac. in partic. diaet.  wax both white, fat, and soft in flesh, giving much good nourishment, clearing the colour of ones face, amending hoarseness of throats, increasing seed, and dispelling 
Rhas'. 2. de all.  wind: wherein we may see, that art and diet can make that wholesome, which nature of itself hath made hurtful.   

Pipiones. Columbae.  
Tame Pigeons are of two sorts, the one great and very tame, breeding monthly, kept and fed continually at home: the other fed never at home but in Cadlock time and the dead of Winter, when they can get no meat abroad, breeding only but twice a year, namely at the first and later seedtime. They are of a very hot complexion, and dry when they are old; but whilst they are young they are hot and moist; the wilder sort is most wholesome, being killed after it hath flown a while up and down the Dove-house, for than they give a purer juice, by reason that their foggy moisture is lessened by exercise; also they must be let blood to death under the 
Rhas'. come▪ 〈◊〉 4 aphor Aveuz. 1. & 2. theisir.  wing, which though Dr. Hector assumed to himself as his own invention, yet it is of no less antiquity than Pliny's writings. Being thus newly killed and forthwith roasted at a blazing fire, their flesh engendereth great store of blood, recalling heat unto weak persons, cleansing the kidneys, quickly restoring decayed spirits, especially in phlegmatic and aged persons, for whom they are most proper. In Galens time (saith Rhasis) they only plucked off their heads and cast them away; but bleeding under the wing is far better, and maketh their flesh more cold and whiter; in so much that Galen is not afraid, to commend them to persons sick of agues. Nay the Italians do as usually give them in agues, as we do Chickens. Pigeons of the first flight are counted better, because the latter flight is after they have eaten cadlocks, which maketh them neither to eat so sweet, nor to prove so white and wholesome: when they cannot be had, home Pigeons (I mean of the greater sort) are to be taken, and to be used in the like manner.    

CHAP. XI.  
Of the flesh of wild fowl, ahiding and feeding chiefly upon the Land.  
THere is no small difference of Land fowl, according to the meat they feed on, and the place they live in; for the purer their meat, the better meat they are themselves; they that feed upon flesh or garbage, are not so wholesome as they that feed upon good corn, bents, or wholesome seeds; less wholesome are they which feed upon worms and fish on the Sea shore, or rivers banks; but worst of all other, they that feed upon Serpents, Spiders and Venomous beasts: which no doubt may prove very medicinable to cure diseases, but they cannot prove nourishing (keeping their natural diet) to restore flesh.  
Concerning the place wherein they live and feed, it is certain that high and dry Countries have the wholesomest Birds: for they which sit in low and moist places, are of no sweet nor wholesome complexion.  
Furthermore, their manner of taking altars their flesh; for a Partridge taken in flight, or a Lark dared with a Hawk, is worth ten taken with nets, springes, and trammels; the reason whereof is already set down in my Chapter of Preparation.  
Finally look what Bird is whitest fleshed, that Bird is easiest to be digested: what Bird is reddest of flesh, is strongest of nourishment: whatsoever is black of flesh, is heavy to be digested and of slow nourishment; yea so much the heavier and slower, by how much his skin and flesh appeareth blacker. This shall suffice to be generally spoken of land fowl, yea of all fowl: now let us descend to their particulars, beginning with birds of greater volume.  

Tardae.  
Bistards or Bustards (so called for their slow pace and heavy flying) or as the Scots term them, Gusestards, that 
Albertus' in hort. san.  is to say, Slow Geese, feed upon flesh, Livers, and young Lambs out of sowing-time, and in harvest time, than they feed upon pure corn: In the Summer towards the ripening of corn, I have seen half a dozen of them lie in a Wheat-field fatting themselves (as a Deer will do) with ease and eating; whereupon they grow sometimes to such a bigness, that one of them weigheth almost 
Gesn. 3. de avib.  fourteen pounds. Now as they are of an extraordinary bulk, so likewise are they of rare nourishment to indifferent strong stomaches, relishing finely, restoring blood and seed, offending no part of the body, but strengthening all. Choose the youngest and fattest about Allhalontide (for then are they best) and diet him a day or two with a little white bread, or rather keep him altogether fasting that he may scour away his ordure; then let him bleed to death in the neck-veins, and having hanged three or four days in a cool place our of the Moonshine, either roast it or bake it as you do a Turkey, and it will prove both a dainty and wholesome meat.   

Grues. 
Gesn. 3. de avib.   
Crane's breed (as old Dr. Turner writ unto Gesner) not only in the Northern Countries amongst the Nation of Dwarves, but also in our English Fens. Pliny saith, that in Italy they feed much upon Grapes; but with us they feed chiefly upon corn, and fenny seeds, or bents, Theodosius esteemeth them of a cold temperature; but all the Arabians judge them to be hot and dry: Certain it is that they are of themselves hard, tough, gross, sinewy, and engendering melancholic blood, unfit for sound men's tables (usually to be eaten of) and much more unmeet for them that be sick; yet being young, killed with a goshawk, and hanged two or three days by the heels, eaten with hot galentine, and drowned in Sack, it is permitted unto indifferent stomaches. In Plutarch's time Cranes were counted a dainty and good meat, fatted 
Plut. lib. de es. carn.  after this manner: First, they stitched up their eyes, and fed them in the dark with wholesome mixtures of corn, milk, and seeds to make them white, tender, and pleasant of taste: A day before they were killed, they tempered their meat with the juice of that herb, or with a good quantity of that seed whereof they would have their flesh especially to relish; were it Mints, Basil, Time, Rosemary, Commin, Coriander, Fennel-seed, or Annis-seed: Which course if we likewise observed in the cramming of Capons, and fattening of our household birds, without question they would taste far more delicately.   

Ciconiae, Asteriae, Ardeolae.  
Storks, Bittors, and Herons, neither do breed, nor can breed any good nourishment, feeding chiefly upon little fishes, frogs, and worms: yea the Stork delighteth in newts, water-snakes, adders, and sloeworms; but (except it be almost famished) it will not venture upon a 
Epist. ad Gesn.  Toad, as Casparus Heldelinus writeth.  
It was my chance in my first travel into Germany, to meet one Godfrey Achtius (chief Physician of Aquisgrane) at Francfort Mart, whose treacle was there sold, and esteemed better than the treacle of Venice, whereinto he put not the flesh nor the salt of Adders; but 
L de ●h eriac. ad Pison:  the flesh of a Heronshaw, fed a long time with nothing but such Adders as Galen wisheth us to choose. Verily his conceit was not ill; and if we practised the like in England, it cannot be amiss, considering that the subtlest part of the Adder is (no doubt) as it were sublimed and imbibed into the Storks body and flesh: Wherefore howsoever we use such birds for Physic, yet let us not feed upon them as upon meats, lest we take poison instead of nourishment. Nay even all the Heronshaws, (namely the black, white, criel-Heronshaw, and the miredromble) though feeding somewhat better than the Byttor or Stork, are but of a fishy and strong savour, unless they be very young, and scarce able to fly; yea they are not dangerless being green roasted, but procure the 
Arnald. de Vil. nov.  piles and smarting hemerrhoids; of all of them, choose the youngest and fatest, for they may be eaten, so with much spice, salt, or onions, and being throughly steeped in a draught of old Wine. Furthermore, if they be dressed without their skins, they relish far better, according to the French and the best fashion, who also stuff them full of sweet herbs, and draw them with fine and small lard.   

Phasiana.  
Pheasants are of so excellent a constitution, as well for substance as temperature, that from them as from a centre, Physicians do judge the complexion of every foul, being of a middle constitution betwixt a brown 
De es. & pot:  Hen and a Partridge (or as Pisanellus will have it, betwixt a Capon and a Partridge) neither so moist as the first, nor so dry as the second, but exceeding both in taste, temperature and goodness. Galen, Rhasis, Avicen, Averrhois, 
Gal. 5 de alim. fac. Rhas: 4: Aph:  Arnaldus de Villa nova, Trallian, and all Writers do prefer a Pheasant for the soundest and best meat of all other; and the Frenchmen think a Pheasant to be called Faisan, because it maketh a sound man. Nevertheless Savanarola willeth men not to eat them often in health, that when sickness cometh they may do them the more good. They are best in Winter, and the young ones are fittest for weak stomaches; the old ones are to hang three or four days by the heels, and then being dressed, they will eat tender. In Hectic Fevers, and upon recoveries from a long or violent sickness, no meat so wholesome as Phesant-pouts; but to strong stomaches it is inconvenientest, especially to Ploughman and sabourers▪ who eating of Pheasants, fall suddenly into sickness, and 
De esc. & potul.  shortness of breath, as Pisanellus hath wittily (and perhaps truly) noted.   

Attagenes Myricae.  
Heath-Cocks whilst they are young, are little inferior to a Pheasant, very well relishing, and being of good digestion; when they wax old, all their flesh proves black, saving the brawn next their brest-bone, which is ever white, tender, firm, and wholesome.   

Perdices.  
Partridges have a temperate heat; but incline to dryness in the second degree; they feed upon Snails, Chickweed, tops of Leeks, and all manner of good and wholesome corn; they are never subject to pips, nor any rheumatic diseases, which maketh them to live till they be 
Gal 3. de alim. fac.  almost twenty years old: But beware of old Partridges, for they are as dangerous as old Beef; being young and tender, they agree exceeding well with cold, weak, waterish, and pale bodies, drying up a moist stomach, strengthening the retentive power, easily turning into pure blood, fattening the body, and increasing lust. They must not be eaten (saith Galen) being newly killed, but hang 
De vict. atten.  a while in the cold air: And the wings and breast of a Partridge (as also of all birds, save a Woodcock, trusting to their flight) are better than the legs and thighs: Nay the legs and thighs of Partridges are thought by Sethi, to have an extraordinary weakness in them, causing them to go as if their back or ridg-bone were parted in sunder, whereupon perhaps they had their name, and were called Part-ridges. Choose them that are young and fat, killed with the Hawk at souse, or else at foot after a long flight. Their broth is good for a weak stomach, for the jaundice, and a tainted liver. If you seeth them in Capon-broth with marrow, eggs, and bread, a Panado made of that broth is exceeding nourishing, being eaten next ones heart. But if you would have a strengthening broth indeed, then seeth them in broth wherein chines of Mutton have first boiled: Roasted Partridge is best for most stomaches, if it be not too dry roasted; for than it is rather Physic to stay a looseness, then fit meat to nourish or restore flesh. They are best at the end of Harvest, before they have either troad or laid.   

Rallae terrestres.  
Rails of the land (for there is also a water-Rail, which the Venetians esteem so highly) deserve to be placed next the Partridge, for their flesh is as sweet as their feeding good, and they are not without cause preferred to Noble men's Tables.   

Gallinagines & Rusticulae.  
Woodcocks and Snites are so light of digestion, and so good in temperature, that they agree with most men's stomaches, especially at their first coming in, or rather a month after when they have rested themselves after their long flight from beyond the Seas, and are fat through ease and good feeding upon fat worms, and snails, lying in trees. Avicen and Albertus dreamt that Woodcocks and Snites fed upon seeds; whereas indeed no bird with a long piked, crooked, and narrow bill can pick them up: but where they perceive a worms hole (as I have seen Snites to do) there they thrust in their Bill as far as they can, and if the worm lie deep, they blow in such a breath or blast of wind, that the worms come out for fear as in an Earthquake. If worms fail, than they pick snails out of their shells, and likewise devour them.  
Towards their going out, either of them wax drier and worse relishing. Woodcocks require the stronger stomach, Snites the weaker; both are of laudable nourishment, but chiefly the Snite. There is a kind of Wood-Snite in Devonshire, greater than the common Snite, which never comes into shallows nor springs of water: And in Holland I remember Snites never living out of springs, as great almost as our Woodcocks, called Herren-Schnepfs, because they are in comparison the Lords or chief of Snites, or that they are only fit for Lords Tables, which Gesner therefore also termeth by the name of Rusticula regalis.  

Columbae 

Petricolae  
Liviae  
Palumbes  
Turtures.     
Wild-Doves be especially four in number, Rock-Doves, Stock-Doves, Ringdoves, and Turtledoves. Rock-doves breed upon Rocks by the Seaside, but never far from Corny Downs, whether in Seed and Harvest-time they fly for meat, living all the year besides upon Mast and Ivy-berries. The other three sorts of Doves feed also upon Corn, Mast, Hawes, Juniper-berries, Ivy-berries, Hurtle-berries, and Holly-berries when they are ripe. Marcus Cato fatted young Ringdoves with 
L: r●i rustic: 1: c: 90:  Bean-meal made into paste with new milk; and Didynius, Turtledoves with bread steeped in Wine; which way they are made of excellent taste and nourishment, though also undieted they are good, being under half a years age. Avicen (contrary almost to the opinions of all other Writers) commendeth the flesh of Turtles above 
Fen. 3 doct. 14 tract. 21.  all other, as being of a good nourishment, easily digested, quickening wit and memory, increasing seed, and strengthening both stomach and guts exceeding well. But Isaac reproveth that opinion, unless it be 
De diaet partic  understood only of young Turtles, or such as have been fed and fatted in the house by art, with moist and cooling nourishments: For otherwise (as he truly avoucheth) all manner of Wild-doves are so hot, hard, and dry, that they cannot prove of any indifferent nourishment.   

Coturnices.  
Quails have gotten an ill name ever since Pliny accused them for eating of Hemlocks and Bearfoot; by reason 
Plin l. 10. c. 22 Avicen Fen. 14 tr. 3. c. 21.  whereof they breed cramps, trembling of the heart and sinews; yea though Hercules loved them above all other meats, in so much that jolaus fetched him out of a 
Athen. l. 9 c. 15.  swound when he was cruelly wounded by Typhon, with the smell of a Quail; yet with much eating of them he fell into the falling-evil, which ever since hath been termed Herculeses sickness. Avicen thinketh that they 
Loco citato.  bring cramps not only by feeding on Helleborus and Hemlocks, but also from a natural inborn property. 
L. 1. Epist. 8.  Monardus writeth thus of them; I allow not the flesh of Quails neither in the Spring nor Winter, not because the ancient Fathers of Physic do condemn them; but because reason is against them. For in the Spring and Summer time they are too dry, engendering rather melancholy than blood: In Autumn and Winter they are too moist; yea though they be fat, yet are they of small nourishment, causing loathing of stomach, and corruption of meat. Baptista Fiera, Amatus Lusitanus, yea Avicen, Rhasis, Isaac and Galen are of the same judgement; only Arnoldus de Villa nova in his Commentary upon the Salern School, affirmeth them in some Countries to be of fine substance, good juice, and easy digestion: Nay, Kiranides saith that their broth cleanseth the kidneys, and their flesh nourisheth indifferently well. Were I here to give my censure, I would be of either side, and yet defend the truth likewise; for I nothing doubt but Quails flesh is bad (as Ducks flesh is) of its own nature, and heavy to be digested; nevertheless being taken young before they have eaten of unwholesome weeds, and fatted with pure Wheat, Hempseed, Coriander▪ seed and Milk (or Chalkwater instead of Milk) I make no question that their flesh is laudable, and may be counted a good and dainty meat.  
And here by the way let us marvel at one thing, That Qualis are generally forbidden because their flesh engendereth the falling evil, and yet Galen commendeth their 
3: Euporist:  brains (the principal seat of that great evil) as an Antidote against the same. What need I write that when the Israelites 
Name: 11: v: 31:  loathed Manna, Quails were sent them as the best and daintiest meat of all other? And if some curious Paraphrast would therefore say it was the worst, because whilst the flesh was in their mouths, many thousands of them fell in the Wilderness! We answer, That it was not through the badness of the food, but the naughtiness of their lusting and tempting God.   

Pluviales.  
Plovers feed upon no solid meat, and therefore being new, have no need of drawing; their meat is chiefly the scom or excrements of worms lying about their holes, or of worms themselves; yet are they of a very sweet, delicate, and fine flesh, being taken when they are fat in Wintertime; and the grey Plover is so highly esteemed, that this Proverb is raised of a curious and malcontented stomach; A grey Plover cannot please him. Yet to some the green Plover seemeth more nourishing, and to others the Lapwing, which indeed is savoury and light of digestion, but nothing comparable to Plovers.   

Cuculi.  
Cuckoos flesh, whilst it is a nestler, is by Perot highly 
Tract: de avib:  extolled; but when once it comes to feed itself, it is ill relishing, hot, and leprous. Gesner asketh, How any 
Lib: 3 de avib:  man dare be so foolish or venturous as to eat of a Cuckoo, whose much spitting argueth a corrupt and excremental flesh; yet by experience we find the young ones to be good meat, yea Pliny and Aristotle prefer them for sweetness above most birds: And albeit the old ones feed filthily upon Dorrs, beetles, and venomous spiders, yet the young one are fed by the Titling, (their foster-dam) with gnats, flies, and red-worms, having no venomous nor bad quality.   

Fedoae.  
Godwits are known to be a fenny fowl, living with worms about Rivers banks, and nothing sweet or wholesome, till they have been fatted at home with pure corn; but a fat Godwit is so fine and light a meat, that Noblemen (yea and Merchants too by your leave) stick not to buy them at four nobles a dozen. Lincolnshire affordeth great plenty of them, elsewhere they are rare in England wheresoever I have travailed.   

Erythopodes & Glottides.  
Redshanks also and Gluts feed in the Fens upon redseeds, bents, and worms, and are of no bad taste, nor evil nourishment.   

Ochropodes.  
Smirings live in waterish Copses with worms, and are a fine and delicate meat.   

Pici.  
Pies or Haggisses feed upon flesh, eggs, worms and ants; their flesh is very hard and loathsome, unless they be very young, and then are they only the meat of poverty.   

Graculi.  
Jays feed upon acorns, beech-mast and worms, and never came into the number of good nourishments, because they have themselves, and procure unto others the falling-evil.   

Pici Martii.  

Cael. l. 28. c. 2. antiq. lect.  Woodpeckers are suspected of the like malignity, though they feed upon timber-worms, the most dainty dish, and most highly esteemed amongst the Romans and Phrygians.   

Orioli.  
Witwols are of excellent good nourishment, feeding upon bees, flies, snails, cherries, plums, and all manner of good fruit.   

Arquatulae terrestres.  
Stonechatters feed as they do, and are of a very good taste and juice.   

Ispida.  
The Kings-fisher feedeth most upon water-worms, and little fishes, and is of a bad relish, and worse nourishment.   

Coccothraustes.  
The Clotbird (called sometimes a Smatch, or an Arling) is as big almost as a Thrush, feeding chiefly upon cherries, and cherry-kernels.   

Nucifraga.  
The Nope feedeth upon mast, nuts, and cherreiss.   

Sitta.  
So also doth the little Pyot, which we call a Nutjobber.   

Upupa.  

Epist ad Ge●n▪  Houpes were not thought by Dr. Torner to be found in England, yet I saw Mr. Sergeant Goodrons kill of them in Charingdon Park, when he did very skilfully and happily cure my Lord of Pembroke at Ivychurch; they feed upon hurtle-berries, and worms, but delight to feed most upon graves, and man's dung, and stinking soil; wherefore they deserve to be counted very unwholesome.   

Turdi & Turdelae Anglicanae.  

Cael. l. 6. antiq. lect.  Thrushes and Navisses feed most upon haws, sloes, misleberries, and privot-berries; which being lean, deserve (as Quintus Curtius used them at Caesar's Table) to be flung out at the windows; but being young, fat, and in season, and by cunning drawing rid of their gall, 
Plut. in Lucullo.  they deserve the nourishing in Lucullus Cages, and to be commended by Physicians to Pompey's Table for a most wholesome meat.   

Turdi Exotici.  
Feldefares are of the like seed, and give (almost) as good nourishment, yea better, when Juniper-berries be ripe, for then all their flesh is perfumed with the scent thereof.   

Merulae.  

Lib. de avib.  Blackbirds are preferred by Baptist Fiera far before Thrushes, Throstels or Feldefares, as being nothing so strong, hot, nor bitter; Trallianus commendeth all alike. Their feed is on little grasshoppers, worms, hurtle-berries, juniper-berries, ivy-berries, bay-berries, and haws; they are suspected to be a melancholic meat, because they be never found but alone and solitary, whereupon the Latins call them Merulas, that is to say, Solitarians.   

Sturni.  

L. 6. de tu. san. L. 3. de alim. sac.  Stares-flesh is dry and sanery, and good against all poison, if Kiranides be not mistaken. Galen in one place compares them for goodness, with Partridge, Thrush and Blackbirds; in another place he dispraiseth them as much for their ill juce, hard digestion, and bad nourishment; which nevertheless are both true, that being understood of young Stairs, fed with wholesome meat, this of old stairs, who delight to feed of unwholesome meat as well as wholesome, namely hemlocks, dwale, and such llke. Amongst this treatise of the greater sort of Land-birds, I had almost forgotten Owls, Rooks, Crows, and Cadesses.   

Noctuae.  
Concerning Owls, when they be once old, they feed upon Mice, Frogs, Grasshoppers and all kind of flesh. Rabbi Moses in his Aphorisms saith, that the flesh of young Owls is dainty and good, strengthening the mind and diverting melancholy and madness: yea I have heard certain noble men and gentlemen avouch, that no young Cuckoo or Partridge is a finer meat.   

Corvi Leguminales.  
Rooks cannot be ill meat when they are young, for they feed chiefly upon pure corn; but their skin is tough, black, and bitter.   

Corvus.  
The carrion Crow is generally condemned, and worthily 
Monedula.  despised of all men: As also the Cadesse or Jacdaw, which is not more unhappy in conditions, then bad of nourishment.  
Now we are come to treat of small Birds of the land, which we will divide according to the order of the Alphabet: having first admonished you, that no small Birds must be overmuch sodden, or dry roasted: for then their nourishing moisture is soon taken out; neither are they to be given to strong stomaches, lest they be converted into choler, whenelse they would wholly turn into good blood. Finally, young Birds must not hang long before they be dressed; for they are of an airy substance which will soon be evapourated. But let us consider every one particularly in his place.   

Montifringillae.  
Brambling are a kind of small Birds, feeding chiefly upon seeds, sloes, and hawthorn kernels.   

Rubetrae.  
Buntings feed chiefly upon little worms.   

Pyrrhacia.  
Bulfinches feed not only upon little worms, but also upon hempseed, and the blossoms of peare-plums and appletrees.   

Citrinellae.  
Citrinels or straw-coloured Finges, be very small Birds, feeding chiefly of white and black poppy seed, but especially of the wild-poppy called Red-weed.   

Certhiae.  
Creepers seem to be a kind of Titmise, living upon the worms which engender in and betwixt the barks of Trees.   

Fringillae.  
Finches for the most part live upon seeds, especially the Goldfinch, which refuseth to eat of any thing else. 
Acanthis.    

Acanthis Atlantica.  
So also doth the Canary Finch or siskin; yet the bulfinch in hunger feeds upon small worms; and the Greenfinch upon horsedung, and nuts in frosty weather. 
Chloris.    

Alandae.  
Larks are of three sorts: Field Larks, Wood Larks, and Heath Larks. The first sort feeds upon corn seeds and worms. The second chiefly upon worms. The third upon worms and heath seed. Some of each sort are high crested like a lapwing, others uncrested which are counted the more wholesome. Their temperament is hot and dry in the second degree, unless they be young and fat, and then they scarce exceed the first degree. Galen and Rhasis write, that as their broth looseneth, so their flesh bindeth the belly.   

Linariae.  
Linnets feed chiefly upon flax seed: but for a need they eat also the seed of hemp and thistles.   

Apodes.  
Martinets are either smooth or hairy legged: for neither of them have perfect feet, but stumps instead of feet. Baptista Fiera in his treatise of Birds exclaimeth against them, and calleth them beggars meat: engendering most hot and feverous blood, fitter to be eaten as a medicine to quicken eyesight and memory, then as a wholesome or nourishing meat; but being taken when they are new fledged, experience warranteth them a dainty and good meat, except they be over roasted.   

Luseiniae.  
Nightingales as Martial said, are nothing worth when their breath is departed; for as they feed filthily in the fields upon spiders and ants, so their flesh is unwholesome at the table.   

Pari majores.  
Oxeys or great Titmise, feed (as ordinary Titmise do) upon caterpillars, blossoms of Trees, bark worms and flies; but their flesh is unwholesome.   

Rubeculae.  
Robin-red-brests feed upon bees, flies, gnats, walnuts, nuts, and crumbs of bread; and are esteemed a light and good meat.   

Passeres.  
Sparrows of the house, feed commonly on the best Corn. They are hot and dry almost in the third degree: engendering hot and aguish blood. The best are the youngest, fattest, and wildest. Trallianus commends lean Sparrows only to such as are sick of the Tympany: and young Cock-sparrows flesh (as well as their stones and brains) to such as be cold of nature, and unable to Venus' sports. Haly abbess willeth such men to mince young cock-sparrows 
5. Theor. c. 22:  with eggs and onions, and to eat them in a gally-mawfry: which perhaps you may find a better medicine, than Dr. julius his bottle, that is said to have cost twenty 
Troglodytae▪  pound a pint; but the red and hedge Sparrows feed ill, and are both unwholesome.   

Hirundines.  
Swallows (be they either house Swallows or bank Swallows) are of the nature and operation of Martlets, but that they are esteemed the hotter of both.   

Curruca.  
The Titling, Cucknel, or unfortunate Nurse (for the Cuckoo ever lays his egg in the Titlings nest) feeds upon gnats, flies, and worms; it is a very hot bird, coming in and going out with the Nightingale, but of a delicate taste   

Pari.  
Titmise are of divers shapes with us in England; some be long, others▪ be very short tailed: some have black heads, some blue, some green, some plain, and some copped: all of them feed but ill, and nourish worse.   

Motacillae.  
Wagtails live upon flies, worms, and fat earth, being no bad meat whilst they are young, unless some because their tail is ever trembling, shall therefore divine that they are ill for the shaking Palsy.   

Reguli.  
Wrens feed finely, & sometimes fill themselves so full of little flies, that their bellies are like to burst. Their flesh being salted cureth Strangullions and the stone not confirmed; but no man ever wrote that they give good nourishment.   

Galguli.  
Yellow Hammers feed (as the most part of Titmise) of seeds and grain; namely the seeds of white and red roses, poppy, burrs, thistles, succory and endiff, etc. In the winter time being fat, they are counted wholesome: at other times they are lean and also bitter.    

CHAP. XII.  
Of the flesh of wild Fowl, abiding and feeding chiefly upon the waters.  

Cygni Sylvestres.  
OF all water fowl, the wild Swan is the biggest and fairest in outward show: but (as I said of tame Swans) it resembleth a hypocrite, for his flesh is black, melancholic, and hard of digestion, though not so hard as the tame, by reason of his much flying.   

Anseres sylvestres.  
Wild Geese are for the same reason better than tame, for their high and long flight breedeth tenderness of body, and expelleth many gross and heavy vapours; but of 
Vulpan●eres.  all other the Bergander is the best and lightest.   

Anates ferae.  
Wild Ducks feed chiefly upon a green narrow-leaved grass (called therefore Ducks grass by Crescentius) which lieth upon the waters in moors, ponds, and plashes all winter long: but they eat likewise the leaves, seeds, and roots of other waterplants, and also worms, spawns of fishes and frogs, young sedge, fat mud, waterspiders, and all venomous and foul things; they are no less lecherous than Cock-Sparrows, who as by often treading, they kill themselves and live not till they be two years old, so wild Drakes by often treading kill their Hens.   

Anates muscariae.  
But there is a kind of wild Duck, called Anas muscaria because it eats nothing but flies: which is of as wholesome and good nourishment, as the other is bad and heavy of digestion.   

Brantae.  
Barnacles both breed unnaturally by corruption, and taste very unsavoury. Poor men eat them, rich men hate them, and wise men reject them when they have other meat.   

Querquedulae.  
Teales● and Widgins feed alike upon worms, herbs, roots and seeds; commonly they are very fat and sweet of taste; much to be esteemed above wild-Ducks or Geese, yet suspected of ill juice by many Authors.   

Totani.  
Pool-Snites live wholly upon fish, and therefore have a strong and uncouth relish.   

Merganseres.  
Shell-drakes, or the Ducks of Italy, are of most pleasant taste, feeding purely themselves, and us as strongly; sometimes the● wax so fat, that their feathers being pulled 
Gen. 3. de avib.  off, their body hath weighed twelve pound weight.   

Urinatrices.  
Divers feed most upon reeds and reed roots, and caddis-worms breeding in them.   

Scarboides.  
Such likewise is the Dobchicks food; but it is of a strong smell, and fatter and tenderer than the most part of fowls that be clove-footed.   

Fulicae.  
Coats feed upon reeds, mud, grass, little snails, and small fishes, they are of a strong and muddy savour, best in Autumn, but never wholesome.   

Nigritae.  

Boseades.  Moor-cocks and Moorhens, as also Pocards, be of the like nature with Coats; save that a fat Pocard is counted a dainty, though not a wholesome meat.   

Pici marini.  

Epist ad▪ Gesn.  Seapies as Dr. Cajus writeth, resemble other Pies in colour, but they have whole feet like water fowl; they feed upon spawn, frogs, and fry of fish, and are but of a bad taste.   

Mergi.  
Cormorants, be they grey or black, feed most of fish and frogs, but especially of Eels; and relish badly.   

Arquatae.  
Curlnes feed wholesomly upon cockles, crevices, muscles, and perwinkles; which maketh them to have no ill taste, and to be counted restorative amongst the French, if they be fat.   

Gulones albi & Cinerei.  
White Gulls, Gray-Gulls, and Black-Gulls (commonly 
Phalacrocoraces'.  termed by the name of Plungers and Water-Crows) are rejected of every man as a fishy meat; nevertheless being fed at home with new curds and good corn till they be fat, you shall seldom taste of a lighter or better meat.   

Pufina Britannica.  
Puffins being Birds and no Birds, that is to say Birds in show and fish in substance, or (as one may justly call them) feathered fishes, are of ill taste and worse digestion; how dainty so ever they seem to strange appetites, and are permitted by Popes to be eaten in Lent.   

Erythropodes.  
Redlings or Water-Redshancks feed as Water-railes do, and be of the like nourishment.   

Rallae aquaticae.  
Water-rails are preferred in Italy before Thrushes or Quails, they feed upon water-snails and water-flies, and the worms breeding in the roots of reeds: They be very sweet and pleasant of taste, giving also a fine and wholesome nourishment.   

Lari.  
Sea-mews and Sea-cobs feed upon garbage and fish, thought therefore an unclean and bad meat; but being fatted (as Gulls use to be) they alter their ill nature, and become good.   

Plateae.  
Shovelars feed most commonly upon the Sea coast upon cockles and Shellfish, being taken home and dieted with new garbage and good meat, they are nothing inferior to fatted Gulls.    

CHAP. XIII.  
Of the Inwards and Outwards both of Beasts and Birds.  
HAving hitherto spoken of the Flesh of Beasts and 
Ala mala, Coxa noxa, Crura dnra, Cropium dubium. Collum bonum.  Fowls, it remaineth now to speak of those parts which are not properly flesh, but either of another, or a mingled nature: Namely, their Fat, Marrow, Brains, Lungs, Livers, Tripes, Stomaches, etc. together with their Eyes, Ears, Noses, Feet, Pinions, Tails, Rumps, Udders, Stones, and Skins: whereof I will write in order.  

Fat.  
Fat of Beasts, as it was forbidden the Israelites by God himself, for some cause unto himself best known; so there be many reasons to persuade us not to eat of the same: For it takes away appetite, gluts the stomach, hardly digesteth, turneth wholly to excrements, and decayeth the retentive powers, especially if it be the fat of greater Beasts, or the greater sort of Birds: For the fat of Rabet-suckers, and little Birds, and small Chickens, is not discommendable, because it is soon and lightly overcome of an indifferent stomach. Of fat Beasts and Birds notwithstanding, the lean is sweetest (so they be not exceeding fat through cramming, but upon their own feeding) by reason that it is basted and suppled with the oiliness thereof, and made both tender and of good relish. Wherefore let some commend lard and fat bruis never so much, and slap it up as greedily as they list, yet they will reward us in the end with many diseases, unless their stomaches be exceeding strong and good.   

Marrow.  
Marrow is the finest part or (as it were) the sweat of fat, secretly conveyed into bones: Sweet, unctuous, and pleasant of taste, nourishing them whose bodies be dry, and stomaches able to digest it. It is sod usually with Capons, Cockerels, and Hens in a nourishing white broth, and also dainty pies be made thereof: but I have known many men to have surfeited of them, and therefore I dare not generally allow of Marrow. Of all Marrows, I find the Marrow of a Deer easiest to digest; next of a young Mutton, and Beef Marrow to be the heaviest. The Marrow of a Goat is very offensive, and the Marrow of Lambs or Calves are not good, because they are crude, bloody, and imperfect for want of age.   

Brains.  

Macr. 3. Satur.  The Egyptians thought it a capital offence to eat the Head of any thing, for the Brains-sake, wherein they thought the soul of every living thing to be chiefly placed. And Plutarch saith, that many things were thought 
lib. cap. 37.  delicate in his time, which no man before desired or dared to taste; as the Brains of Birds and Beasts. How abject a thing Brains were in old time, it appeareth in Ulysses scoffing of Agamemnon, comparing him with a Calf's Brain, as with a most abject and vile thing, which all men cast away. And verily Brains for the most part are exceeding phlegmatic, of gross juice, hard passage, slow concoction, great heaviness, and so offensive to the stomach, that being eaten last, or with any fat meat, they trouble the same exceedingly, and procure vomit: wherefore we do well to eat the brains of Calves, Lambs, Kids, and Pigs, at the beginning of Dinner or Supper, for were they eaten last (through their unctuous and superfluous moisture) we should bring up all. Likewise I commend the toasting of Pigs brains at the fire (being the moistest of all other) the thorough roasting of Hares brains and Rabbits brains; and the mingling of sage, salt, pepper, and Vinegar with Calf's brains.  
Concerning the brains of Birds, none are absolutely commendable, but of such fowl as be of a temperate constitution, as Cocks, Chickens, Capons, Pullet's, Partridge and Pheasant. Also the brains of roasted Woodcocks, and Snites, and Blackbirds, and all small birds are counted wholesome; but the brains of great birds, and waterfowl, and Pigeons, and all sorts of Wild-doves, 
Aveuz. 1. &: 2. Theisir. Gal. 4. Eupor. Gal de comp. in sect. loc.  are counted by the old and learned Arabians very dangerous: Only Quails brains are commended by Galen, against the falling sickness, and Cranes brains against the Hemorrhoids.   

Tongues.  
The Tongues of Beasts seem to be wholly of a fleshy substance: Which if we deny not because it is full of muscles, yet verily the flesh thereof is more spongy and 
Diocl. in 7: sap. Conu.  oily then of any flesh besides. Aesop and Thales called Tongues the best and the worst part of the body; but as an Ass' bones make the sweetest Regal-pipes of all others, though the living Ass be least musical; so let the living Tongues of any Beasts be never so bad, yet they are without comparison the sweetest meat of all others, when they are dead and dressed: For the Tongues of Beasts are soft, temperate, light, moist and spongy, never faulty of themselves, but marred oftentimes by miscookery. As for Birds Tongues, they are generally exceeding dry, hard, and gristly (Parrots tongues excepted) neither could I ever find any cause (but because a curious and sumptuous fool would have it so) why Heliogabulus should have pies made of Nightingales Tongues.   

Chine-Marrow.  
Pith. Marrow, running all along from the hinder brain (whereof no doubt it is a portion) to the end of the backbone or chine of beasts, is no doubt much harder and drier than the brain itself, especially towards the further end of the back; which dryness makes it less loathsome to the stomach than brains are; yea furthermore it strengtheneth that body which is able to concoct it. Many are of opinion that Cawdles made strong with the pith of a Steer, and yolks of newlaid eggs, do by a secret property restore nature, and recover the weakness of loins caused by venery. Montagnana maketh a singular confection of divers marrows to that purpose, which I will not set down in English, lest wantoness be too bold to follow their follies.   

Hearts.  
Hearts of all living creatures, whilst life endureth, are most active and effectual to many purposes; but after 
Gal. 3 de alim. fac.  death there is no part of less use, nor less nourishment. Yea they are harder of digestion than any entrail, concocted with no small difficulty, though chosen from the youngest and tenderest sort of fowls or beasts: Yet if any do overcome them, they give no weak nor bad nourishment.   

Lungs.  

Isaac. Jud. de part. diaet.  Lungs of beasts are softer than the heart, liver, kidneys and spleens; easier therefore of concoction, though of a more phlegmatic and frothy substancer. Tacuinus commendeth them greatly to young men sick of hot agues, because they both temper their hot and dry disposition, as also for that they be light, and soon concocted. But he saith, that therefore they are ill for strong and labouring men, whom so light a meat cannot sufficiently nourish, but is more likely to putrify in their stomaches. 
Gal. 3. de alim. fac.  The Lungs of Foxes are no wholesome meat, but rather medicine to sore lungs.   

Livers.  
Livers of all beasts give but gross nourishment, and are hardly concocted, and of slow passage; unless it be of sucklings, or of young swine fed with pure meat. The Livers of tame fowl, as Hens, Capons, chickens, ducklings and geese, fatted with wholesome and white meat, please the taste, clear the eyesight, agree with the stomach, and increase blood. Crane's Livers sod in the broth of cicers assuage the pain of the back and kidneys, but they are of a small and bad nourishment. The Livers of Larks and Snites are very sweet and restorative, as also of a Woodcock, which hath of all other birds (for proportion of his body) the greatest Liver.   

Tripes.  
Stomaches, Paunches, and Guts of Beasts, are far harder in substance then their flesh, requiring much time ere they can be concocted, deserving scarce the name of meat, because they give so little nourishment, and so much excrement. Yea all tripes and chitterlings made of elder beasts (be they oxen, swine, or deer) though accidentally through sowcing they procure appetite, yet naturally they are foul and unwholesome meat, engendering scabs, itches, and leprosies, and other filthy diseases like themselves. Yet the taste of tripes did seem so delicate to the 
Plut. de es. carn.  Romans, that they often killed oxen for the tripes sake, not caring what became of the flesh; till such time as their licentious appetite was bridled by banishment if any should attempt the like again. But the maws or gyzards of Hens, Capons, Chickens, and Geese especially, are both tender and pulpy, and are supposed extraordinarily to corroborate the stomach. So likewise the guts of Larks, Woodcocks, and Snites, give no bad nourishment, being presently roasted assoon as the birds be taken.   

Milts.  
Spleens of beasts give an unpleasant taste and a worse nourishment: and no marvel, for if livers, being the fountains of blood, be of hard and unwholesome juice, how can spleens (the sinks and spounges of the liver) prove wholesome meat? Only such a hogs spleen is commended, which hath fed long upon Tamarisk, whereby all gross, sour, and melancholic humours have been consumed in it. Paracelsus is the first that ever 
l. de Magister.  commended an Ox's spleen, as available to hasten the courses of women.  

Pli. l. 10. c. 61.  Kidneys of beasts (for birds have none, the Bat excepted, which also hath breasts and giveth milk) be of a middle temper betwixt flesh and kernels, of hard concoction and ill juice, especially in the greater sorts of beasts; always keeping a smack of that which passeth through them, and being too strong for most stomaches; the kidneys of sucking Lambs, Calves, Pigs, and Kids, are the tenderest and the best, but when they have left sucking they are all too rank.   

Kernels and Sweetbreads  
Kernels of Beasts, especially such as lie about the throat and breast of sucking Calves, Kids and Lambs, 
Gal. 3. de. al. fa▪ cap. 6.  are a very good meat being well digested, drawing near to the nourishment of flesh; but if they be not well digested, they breed raw and phlegmatic humours. Our Countrymen do well first to roast and then to boil the sweetbread of beasts; for thereby all superfluous moisture is consumed. Kernels of fowls lie chiefly about the rump on either side thereof, and are (as many take it) very restorative.   

The Matrix.  
The matrix of beasts, yea of a barren Do so highly esteemed, is but a sinewy and hard substance, slow of digestion and little nourishment.   

Eyes.  
Eyes of young beasts and young birds are not unwholesome, being separated from their skins, fat, balls, and humours; for than nothing remaineth but a sweet tender and musculous flesh, which is very easy of digestion.   

Ears, Snouts and Lips.  
The Ears, Snouts and Lips of beasts being bloudless and of a sinewy nature, are more waterish, viscous, and phlegmatic, then that they may be commended for any good or indifferent nourishment.   

Pinions and Feet.  
The Pinions of birds, and the feet of beasts are of like disposition; yet the pinions of geese, hens, capons, and chickens are of good nourishment: and so are the feet of young hogs, pigs, Lambs and Calves; yea also a tender Cow-heel is counted restorative; and Heliogabalus the Emperor amongst his most dainty and lustful dishes made Pies of Coxcombs, Cock-stones, Nightingales tongues, and Camels heels, as Lampridius writeth. Galen 
●, de alim fac.  also for men sick of agues boiled Piggs-pettitoes in barley water, whereby each was bettered by the other: the Ptisan making them the more tender, & they making the Ptisan more nourishing and agreeable to the stomach. That sodden Geese feet were restorative, Messalinus 
Plin. lib. 10: cap. 22.  Cotta by trial found out, if Pliny may be credited. The Tails or Rumps of Beasts are counted by certain unskilful Physicians, yea of Dr. Isaac himself, to be hard of digestion. First, because they are so far distant from the fountain of heat. Secondly because they are most of a sinewy constitution; to which if a third had been added, that they are but covers of a close-stool, perhaps is arguments would have been of some indifferent weight: For indeed the farther any part is from the heart, it is fed and nourished with the more fine and temperate blood; also the extremities or ends of sinews are of strong wholesome and good nourishment; but as for the Tails and Rumps of Beasts, it is indifferently mingled of flesh, sinews and fat; so that the very Anatomy of them shows them to be a meat agreeable to all stomaches; and verily whosoever hath eaten of a pie made only of Mutton Rumps, cannot but confess it a light wholesome and good nourishment. The Rumps of Birds are correspondent, having kernels instead of flesh; but when they are too fat, they overclog and cloy the stomach.   

Udders.  
The Udders of milch beasts (as Kine, Ewes, Does, and She-goats) are a laudable taste, and better than Tripes, because they are of a more fleshy nature. Lean Udders must be sod tender in fat broth; fat Udders may be sod alone; each of them need first a little corning with salt, being naturally of a phlegmatic and moist substance.   

Stones.  

lib. esc. & potu.  The Stones of a Boar work marvails (saith Pissanellus) in decayed bodies, stirring up lust through abundance of seed, gathered by superfluous and rank nourishment. Indeed when Bucks and Stags are ready for the rut, their stones and pisels are taken for the like purpose: as for the stones of young Cocks, Pheasants, Drakes, Partridges, and Sparrows, it were a world to write how highly they are esteemed. Averrhois thinks that the stones of a young Cock, being kept long in good feeding and separated from his Hens, do every day add so much flesh unto our bodies, as the stones themselves are 
Capi vaccius  in weight. Avicen as much esteemeth Cock-sparrows stones, or rather more. But the Paduan Doctors (but especially Doctor Calves-head) giveth that faculty to the stones of Pheasants and Partridges above all others.   

Skin.  
The Skins of Beasts, yea of a roasted Pig is so far from nourishing, that it can hardly be well digested of a strong stomach. Some Birds are sodden or roasted without their skins, because they are black and bitter (as Rooks, Dawes, Cootes, and Moorhens) and howsoever others are spared, yet the skin of no Bird turneth to nourishment, but rather to ill humours or filthy excrements. Nay the very skin of an egg, of a nut, an almond, a prune, a raisen, or a corrin, and generally of all fruit, is so far from nourishing, that it cometh out of the strongest man's body (either whole or broken) as it went in.    

CHAP. XIIII.  
Of Milk.  
FOrasmuch as children's stomaches, and old men's bodies, and consumed men's natures be so weak, that not only all flesh and fish, but also the fruits of the earth are burdensome to their tender and weak bowels: God tendering the growing of the one, the preservation of the other, and the restoring of the third, hath therefore appointed Milk; which the youngest child, the weariest old man, and such as sickness hath consumed may easily digest. If we would define or describe what Milk is, it seemeth to be nothing but white blood, orrather the abundant part of blood, whited in the breasts of such creatures as are ordained by nature to give suck; appointed properly for children and sucking little ones, but accidentally for all men, sick either of consuming diseases or old age. That women's Milk is fittest for young children, it may easily be proved by the course of nature, which converteth the superfluity of blood in a woman bearing her child within her to the breasts, for no other purpose, then that she should nourish her own babe. For truly nothing is so unperfect, defectuous, naked, deformed, and filthy as a man, when he is newly born into the world through a strait and outstreatched passage; defiled with blood, replenished with corruption, more like to a slain then a living creature, whom no body would vouchsafe to take up and look on, much less to wash, kiss, and embrace it, had not nature inspired an inward love in the mother towards her own, and in such as be the mother's friends.  
Hence it cometh that mothers yet hot & sweeting with travail, trembling still for their many and extreme throws, forget not their newborn Babes, but smile upon them in their greatest weakness, heaping labour upon labour, changing the night's trouble with the day's unquietness; suffering it to taste no other milk, then that wherewith in their bellies it was maintained. This doth a kind and natural mother (if she be of a sound and indifferent strong constitution) for her child; and thus did Eve, Sara, Rebecca, and Rachel; yea all women which truly loved their children, and were both able and willing to feed their own. There be many reasons why mothers should be afraid to commit their children to starnge women. First because no Milk can be so natural unto them as their own. Secondly because it is to be feared, lest their children may draw ill qualities from their Nurses both of body and mind, as it fell out in jupiter, whom whilst his Mother committed to Aega 
Ex Higyno.  (Olens daughter and Pan's wife) to be nursed by her, the Country woman living only upon goat's milk, could not but be of a strong lascivious nature, which left such an impression in the child, that growing once to the age of a stripling, he was in love with every fair wench, lay with his own Sister, forced his own Neices, left no fair woman unassaulted, if either bygold, or entreaty, or craft, and transforming himself he could obtain her love. Nay when he was full of women's company, he loved boys and abused himself unnaturally in companying with beasts. The like also is recorded of Aegysthus, who being fed in a Shepherd's Cottage only with goat's Milk, waxed thereupon so goatish and lecherous, that he defiled not only 
Ovid. in rem. amor.  Agamemnon's bed, but also neighed (in a manner) at every man's wife.  
Nevertheless if the Mother's weakness be such that she cannot, or her frowardness such, that she will not nurse her own Child; then another must be taken suitable to the Child's constitution: for a fine and dainty Child requireth a Nurse like to itself; and the Child of strong and clownish Parents, must have a Nurse of a strong and clownish Diet. For as Lambs sucking, she-goats bear course wool, and Kids sucking Ewes bear soft hair, so fine Children degenerate by gross woman's milk, losing or lesning that excellency of nature, wit, and complexion, which from their Parents they first obtained. Neither is women's Milk best only for young and tender infants, but also for men and women of riper years, fallen by age or by sickness into compositions.  

Beast's milk.  Best I mean in the way of nourishment, for otherwise Ass' Milk is best, for some Cows, Milk and for others Goats milk; because the one cleanses, the other loosens, and the third strengtheneth more than the rest. Goatsmilk is also better for weak stomaches, because they feed on boughs more than grass. Sheeps-milk is sweeter, thicker and more nourishing, yet less agreeable to the stomach, because it is fatter. Cows-milk is most medicinable, because with us it looseneth the body, though in Arcadia it stayeth the belly, and cureth consumptions better than 
Plin. l 6. c. 30.  any other milk. Finally the milk ofany beast chewing the cud (as Goats, Sheep, and Kine) is very ill for rheums, murs, coughs, fevers, headache, stops and inflammations of any inward part; for sore eyes also, and shaking of sinews. Avicen saith, that their Milk is hurtful to young men, because they are choleric; to sore eyes, headaches, agues, and rheums, because it is full of vapours: to convulsions and cramps, by reason of repletion: to resolution or palsies, by over moistening; to the stone and obstructions, because the cheesy part of it is very gross.  
Of Beasts not chewing the Cud Camels milk is the sweetest and thinest of all other; Mares milk the next, and Ass' milk of a middle temper: not so thin, but that it nourisheth much; nor so thick, as that easily it will curdle. All milk is thinnest in the Spring, and thickest in Summer, because then the wheyish part is resolved by sweat; and all meats then obtain a drier faculty.  

Signs of the best Milk.  
There be four ways in women and beasts to know the most nourishing and substantial milk: namely by the colour, smell, consistence, and taste. For the best milk is of a pearl-colour, neither blue, transparent, nor grey, but white clear and confused; the consistence of it is neither thin nor thick, hanging like a row of pearls upon one's nail (if it be milked on it) not overhastily running of. In taste it is not sour, bitter, salt, sweet, sharp, nor strong, but sweet yet not in excess, and pleasant after 
4 de sac. simple. cap. 17.  an extraordinary kind of pleasantness: yet Galen affirmeth, that if milk could be tasted when it is first concocted in the veins and breasts, it would seem sweeter than honey itself.  
The smell likewise of it is pure and fragrant, though proper to itself, and void of loathsomeness.   

Causes of good Milk.  
Also it is much material to the goodness of milk, to have special regard to the Diet of those creatures whose milk we use, or choose for our children. Galen reporteth that a friends child of his, having lost his good Nurse by an untimely death, was put out to another: who in time of dearth being forced to feed chiefly upon fruit, and roots, and Acorne bread, infected her child (as she herself was infected) with much grievous and filthy scabs. And I pray you what else is the cause, that many children nursed in the Country are so subject to frets, sharpness of urine and the stone; but that their Nurses for the most part eat rye bread strong of the leaven, and hard cheese, and drink nothing but muddy and new Ale? It is also recorded, that a young man sick of a Consumption, used the milk of a goat to his great good, so long as it fed in his own field; but afterward feeding in another field where store of Scammony grew, and some wild spourge, he fell into a deadly scouring and felt no nourishment.  
Furthermore care is to be taken of their health, that give us milk; for as an unclean and pocky nurse (which woeful experience daily proveth) infecteth most sound and lively children; so likewise a clean sound and healthful nurse recovereth a sickly and impotent child. Nay (which is more) no man can justly doubt, that a child's mind is answerable to his nurse's milk and manners; for what made jupiter and Aegystus so lecherous, but that 
Politianus in Nutricia.  they were chiefly fed with goat's milk? What made Romulus and Polyphemus so cruel, but that they were 
Syl. p●et. l. 14 Aelian. lib. 12. var. hist.  nursed by She-wolves? What made Pelias (Tyrus and Neptune's son) so brutish, but that he was nursed by an unhappy mare? Is it any marvel also, that Giles the Abbot (as the Saint-register writeth) continued so long 
Marulus. lib. 4 cap. 2.  the love of a solitary life in woods and deserts when three years together he sucked a do? What made Dr. Cajus in his last sickness so peevish and so full of frets at Cambridge, when he sucked one woman (whom I spare to name) froward of conditions and of bad diet; and chose so quiet and well, when he sucked another of contrary disposition? verily the diversity of their milks and conditions, which being contrary one to the other, wrought also in him that sucked them contrary effects.  
Now having showed what milk is best, and how to be chosen, let us consider how it is to be taken and used of us. First therefore if any naturally loath it (as Petrus 
Jo. Mat. a Grad. c. de appetitu.  Aponensis did from the day of his birth) it cannot possibly give him any good nourishment, but perhaps very much hurt in offending nature. If chose any 
Athen. l. 2. c. 2 Guagninus in Tart. Cael. l▪ b ●8. cap. 2. A. L.  with Philinus love nothing else, or with the poor Bizonians can get no other meat, or with the Tartarians and Arabians feed most often and willingly on milk: let them all remember these three lessons.   

How Milk is to be eaten and used, in time of health.  
First that they drink or eat the milk of no horned beast unsodden, for so will it not easily curdle nor engender wind: but women's milk, Ass' milk, and Mare's milk, need no other fire to prepare it, for it will never curdle into any hard substance. Secondly to be sure that milk shall not curdle, season it with salt, sugar, or honey, and neither drink any wine or sour thing upon it, nor mingle it with other meats, but eat it upon an empty stomach, and fast an hour after it. Thirdly exercise not presently upon it, neither sleep upon any milk taken from beasts chewing the cud, and when you have eaten it wash your teeth clean, for there is no greater enemy unto them then milk itself, which therefore nature hath chiefly ordained for them, who never had or have 
Lib. de san. tu.  lost their teeth. And truly (as Marcilius Ficinus noteth) Milk is not to be used of young men, who have sound teeth given them for stronger meat, but of such as either have none at all, or very few and weak ones; or though they have strong teeth, want ability and strength to set them a grinding as it falleth out in them that are fallen into Fever Hectics. Wherefore when Poppaea 
plin l. 11. c 41:  wife to Domitius Nero carried 500 she Asses (shod with gold) continually about with her, to bathe her body in their milk once a week, and to drink of it every day, to make her skin clear and smooth without wrinkles: she left it rather a monument of her pride, than a memorial of her wisdom; for nature taught her a better meat, though Art could not appoint her a finer Bath. If she had taken it (as the Arcadians do Cowmilk) in the 
Plin. l. 25 c. 7.  spring time only, for a month or six weeks together once in the morning, to cleanse and purge the body of bad humours, it had been good and warrantable by physic: but to use it continually in health could not less corrupt her, than Goat's milk did my Lady Penruddock, of whose cruel and terrible end, caused by the lest worms of all other, perpetually engendered betwixt the skin and the flesh, through superfluity of nourishment arising from the long continuance of Goat's milk; I will not here rehearse, it being fresh enough in their memories that best knew her & most loved her. The like may I say of Cow milk so generally used of us, that being now and then taken of sound men (not subject nor distempered with hot diseases) it nourisheth plentifully, increaseth the brain, fatneth the body, restoreth flesh, assuageth sharpness of urine, giveth the face a lively and good colour, increaseth lust, keepeth the body soluble, ceaseth extreme coughing, and openeth the breast; as for children and old men they may use it daily without offence, yea rather for their good and great benefit.   

What Milk is best in sickness and consumptions.  
Concerning them that be sick, There are few diseases to which milk is not offensive being inwardly taken, except the Consumptions of the solid parts called Marasmus, the Consumption of flesh, called Atrophia, and the Consumption of the lungs and breathing parts called Phthisis. For recovery of the first, Camels milk is preferred before all others, because it is most moist and thin. The second sort is best recovered by sucking milk from a woman's breast, as most familiar to our livers and blood, needing no preparation (for it is only blood discoloured) but only application unto the flesh.   

The choosing of a good Nurse.  
The Nurse must be young, clear of skin, of a kindly smell, pure complexion, good temperature, wholesome and moderate diet, much sleep, little anger, neither too idle nor too toiling, no wine bibber, no eater of hot spices, no ordinary wanton, and void of all diseases; such a nurse is sooner wished for then found; yet such a one is to be chosen either for sound children or sick Persons, lest drawing corruption in so fine a meat as milk is, our consumptions be increased so much the more, by how much poison given with drink is more dangerous.   

Ass' milk.  
The third sort of Consumptions, wherein the flesh accidentally decayeth through exulceration of the lungs and breathing parts, is especially to be cured by Ass' milk; for which Camels milk is unfit, because it is too thin and moist; as also woman's milk, because it wholly nourisheth and nothing cleanseth; whereas Ass' milk is both meat and medicine, cleansing and nourishing alike, not so thin as to hinder expectoration, not so thick as to cause condensation of the matter putrified, but being of a middle temper and consistence, and consequently most proper for that disease. Neither are all Asses of alike goodness; for a young Ass' milk is of the thinnest, an old Ass' milk is too thick and dry, but one of a middle age is best for that purpose. Having gotten such a one, every morning (four or five hours before you use her milk) shut her from her foal, and curry her well and clean, lest her skin growing scurvy and foul ill vapours be augmented inwardly for want of expiration: then feed her with grinded malt, straw-dryed, mingled with a little sweet fennel seed, aniseed, or carraway seed, which she will eat with great pleasure, and digest into a sweet and wholesome blood: an hour after that, milk her as near the patient as conveniently you can, that he may drink her milk ere the air hath altered it, for if it be once cold it is never wholesome; this is to be done twice a day, morning and evening upon an empty stomach, neither eating nor drinking aught after it for two hours; you may sweeten it also with sugar-candy, sugar of roses, or fine maiden honey, and it will be the more effectual. Assoon as the Ass is milked, turn her and her foal into fine leaze, wherein store of Cowslaps, Trifoil, Cinqfoil, Elecampana, Burnet Filipendula, Meadtansy, Horsetail, Plantain, Lambs-tongue, Seabiouse, and Lung-wort groweth. In winter feed her with the sweetest hay growing in the finest and best meadows If Ass' milk cannot be conveniently obtained for the Lung-consumption, nor women's milk for the Liver-consumption before specified, use the milk of a meetly young radish and sound Cow, feeding in the like leaze or upon the sweetest hay: but beware (as commonly fools do not) that you feed them not with new and much less with sour grains; for it maketh their milk strong, windy, and unwholesome, especially for such as be weak and much consumed; likewise remember to rub and stroke down your Cow every morning, and her milk will be both sweeter and more nourishing. Thus much of Milk, what it is, how it is made; for whom and for what diseases it is convenient, how it is to be prepared and used, how many kinds thereof are wholesome for man's body, what milk is fittest for sound men, and what for them that be sick: so there resteth no more but to wonder at Pliny's credulity, who as constantly (upon hear-say) avoucheth, mares feeding near the river 
Plin. l. 2. c. 67. Card. lib. 1. de rer▪ var.  Astaces in Pontus to give all black Milk; as Cardan reporteth blue snows to be common near the Straits of Magellane.    

CHAP. XV.  
Of Butter, Cream, Curds, Cheess, and Whey.  
THe milks of horned beasts (as Cows, Ewes and Goats) do consist of three substances; Cream, Curds and Whey.  

Of Cream.  
The first (being compared to the rest) is hot and unctuous; the second phlegmatic and viscous; The third of a middle nature. Again there be two sorts of Cream; one natural called the flour of raw milk, gathered of the milk without fire, after it hath stood in a cold place: the other called the flour or cream of sodden milk, or clouted Cream; gathered from it after it hath been thickened upon a soft fire. Raw cream how sweet soever it seemeth to wanton stomaches, yet it weakeneth concoction, hindereth retention, and is more hard of digestion than any milk. Sodden and boiled cream (such as we use in Tarts, Fools and Custards) is less offensive to the stomach, and of better nourishment; yet we do ill in eating it last, when the lightness and unctuosity of it showeth that it ought to be eaten first.   

Butter.  
Butter (not undeservedly termed the Flemmins treacle) is by labouring and churming made of both sorts of cream; so that as milk is nothing but blood twice concocted, so Butter is nothing but Cream twice laboured. Pliny showeth the true making of it, which I need not to repeat, because it nothing, or very little 
Lib. 28. c. 9  differeth from ours: Only I wonder with him, that Africa, and other Barbarous Country's esteem it a Gentleman's dish, when here and in Holland, and in all the Northern Regions, it is the chief food of the poorer sort. For go from the elevation of 52 to 8● of the North pole, you shall every where find such store of good butter, as no where the like, no not in Parma nor Placentia, nor Holland itself, whence so much Butter 
Olausl. 13. sept. gent.  and Cheese is dispersed through the whole world. In Iceland they make such a quantity, that having neither earthen Vessels nor Cask enough to keep it in, they make Chests of Fir, thirty or forty foot long, and five foot square, filling them yearly with salt butter, which they bury in the ground till they have occasion to use it.  
Butter is hot and moist, of gross nourishment, softening rather then corroborating the stomach, hastening meat into the belly before it be concocted, rheumatic, and easily converted into oily fumes, which greatly annoy both throat and head. It is ill for the stomackrhume▪ and all fluxes either of bloud-humors or seed; and in truth it is rather to be used as Sauce and Physic, then as meat to feed upon. It is best at breakfast, tolerable in the beginning of dinner; but at supper no way good, because it hindereth sleep, and sendeth up unpleasant vapours to annoy the brain, according to the old Proverb, Butter is Gold in the morning, Silver at noon, and Led at night. It is also best for children whilst they are growing, and for old men when they are declining; but very unwholesome betwixt those two ages, because through the heat of young stomaches, it is forthwith converted into choler. Weak stomaches are to eschew all fat, oily, and buttered meats, especially when they swim in butter; for naturally butter swimeth aloft, and consequently hindereth the stomaches closing, whereby concoction is foreslowed, and many ill accidents produced to the whole body. The Dutchmen have a by-Verse amongst them to this effect: 
Eat Butter first, and eat it last,  
And live till a hundred years be past.   
And Paracelsus in his Book de Tartaro, thinketh the Netherlanders to be more free of the stone then other Nations, because their chiefest food is butter; wherein the silly Alchemist was not a little mistaken, for no people in the world are more subject to that disease, as the number and excellency of stone-cutters in that Country may plainly prove. And if butter be less offensive, and more nourishing to them then better meat, it is to be imputed either to a natural affection unto it, infused (as it were) with their parent's seed, or else to a long custom, which is (as before I noted) another nature. And verily their natural love unto that meat of all others, appeareth in this: for that as English people, when the Bride comes from Church, are wont to cast wheat upon her head, and the Grecians to anoint the 
Plut. l. 28▪ c 9  door posts with fat la●d; so when their Brides and Bridegrooms return homeward from Church, one presents them (as presaging plenty and abundance of all good things) with a pot of butter, which they esteem the foundation (though a slippery foundation) of their lives. The fattest butter is made of sheep's milk, the strongest of goat's milk, but the best and most of Cow's milk, which caused it of the Grecians to be called Butyros. It were tedious and impertinent to show how many and necessary uses it hath in Surgery and Physic, considering that here we are only to describe (as we have done) what nourishment it giveth, not what it worketh against diseases.   

Of Curds and Cheese.  
As there hath mention been made of two sorts of Cream, so now also I must write of two sorts of Curds, the one fresh, without salt or rennet, the other mingled with the one or both: Now if the Butter be at Market when the Curds or Cheese is pressed at home, then are they both utterly unwholesome, clamming the stomach, stopping the veins and passages, speedily breeding the stone, and many mischiefs; but if they be equally mingled with the butterish part, than the Cheese made thereof is wholesome, unless age or ill-housewifery hath made it bad: For new, sweet, and fresh Cheese, nourisheth plentifully; middle-aged Cheese nourisheth strongly, but old and dry Cheese hurteth dangerously: for it stayeth siege, stoppeth the Liver, engendereth choler, melancholy, and the stone, lieth long in the stomach undigested, procureth thirst, maketh a stinking breath, 
6 de alim fac. Isa. de diaet. pt.  and a scurvy skin: Whereupon Galen and Isaac have very well noted, That as we may feed liberally of ruin Cheese, and more liberally of fresh Cheese, so we are not to taste any further of old and hard Cheese, then to close up the mouth of our stomaches after meat.  
Concerning the differences of Cheese in substance: Good Cheese is neither too soft nor too hard, too close, nor yet spongy, too clammy, nor yet crumbling, too salt, nor yet unsavoury, too dry, nor yet weeping, pleasantly, not strongly smelling, easily melting in the mouth, and never burning as it is toasted at the fire. Likewise Cheese made of Ewes milk is soon digested, that of Cow's milk is more nourishing, but Cheese made of Goat's milk is most nourishing of all, being eaten whilst it is new and soft, for it quickly waxeth dry, earthly, and crumbling. The Western Goths, to prevent the dryness of Cheese, make them so big, that two strong men with levers can scarce move one of them; which also causeth the Parmisans to be so big, and also 
L. 3 Trid. hist.  them of Placentia, which Bernardinus Scaccus in his Annals of Trent, preferreth before the Parmisans: But was not that a great Cheese think you, wherewith Zoroaster 
Plin. l. 11. c. 42  lived in the Wilderness twenty years together, without any other meat? or rather was it not most cunningly made or preserved, when at twenty years' end it did eat as soft as at the first day? Which though some do think impossible, yet the Parmesan of Italy will prove it true, by age waxing mellower and softer, and more pleasant of taste, digesting whatsoever went before it, yet itself not heavy of digestion. Our Essex Cheese being well handled, would in my judgement come next unto it, especially if Goats were as plentiful there as sheep, that there might be a proportion betwixt the three milks, without which it is folly to attempt the like. Now whereas the Placentians and Parmians add Asses milk, and Mare's milk, and also Camels milk 
Plin. l 11. c 41  (when they can get it) to the making of their Cheese, it is not for the Curds sake (because they yield no hard Curd) but for the butterish part that is taken out of them: for indeed the butter made of them is most thin, liquid, moist and penetrating, whereby such a suppling is procured, that their Cheeses do rather ripen then dry with long lying.  
The Irish men, like to Pliny's Barbarians, have not yet so much wit as to make Cheese of Milk; and our 
Plin. l. 11. c. 42  Welshmen want cunning to make it well. French Cheese in Pliny's time tasted like a medicine; but 
Plin. loco citato.  now the Angelot's of Normandy are counted restorative; which many of our Gentlewomen (and especially a Niece of mine own) have so well counterfeited, that they excel their first pattern. Spain hath forgotten the art of Cheese making; and Portugal makes them but indifferently well, though sometimes the best 
Strab. l. 3▪ Plin. l. 11. c. 42▪  in the world were made at Cuna, near to Cape Vincent, where they also made Cheeses of 1000 l. weight apiece.  
As for our Country Cheeses, Banbury and Cheshire yields the most, and are best; to which the Holland Cheeses might be justly compared, if their makers could but soberly put in salt.  
As for Butter milk and Whey, I leave them to my Treatise of drinks, because they are of a thinner substance, than that conveniently and properly they may be numbered and accounted amongst Meats. Now a word or two of Eggs, and then to our variable and no less profitable Discourse of Fishes.    

CHAP. XVI.  
Of EGGS and BLOOD.  

Plin. l. 4. c. 13.  AS the Oonians live only of Eggs and Oatmeal, so the Egyptians for a great while durst not eat Eggs, 
Polid. Vir. l. 3. c. 5. de rar. inv.  because they are unperfect or liquid flesh; neither did they eat a long time any Milk, because it is but discoloured blood: Certain Grecians abstained from them, 
Alex. Aphr. l. 2 problem. 84.  because they resemble a little world; for the shell of them is like the earth, cold and dry; the white is like to water, cold and moist; the foam or froth in the white, resembleth air, which is warm and moist; the yolk agreeth with the fire, which is hot and dry. But to omit such frivolous reasons, let us not doubt but an Egg is a lawful and wholesome meat, tempered so excellently well by nature itself, that it must needs be accounted one of the best nourishments, being eaten white and all; For they which eat only the yolk (as many do in a conceit to nourish more plentifully) fall into many hot and dangerous diseases, unless they have a very cold liver, and 
Pl. l. 29 cap. 3.  waterish blood. chose the whites of Eggs are so cold, that spongy wood being thoroughly overlaid with them, will hardly, or not at all be burnt in a glowing fire. Both being taken together, do so qualify one another, that generally they agree with all stomaches, or at the least offend none, if we choose them that be best, and prepare them well after they be chosen. Now all Eggs being potential creatures, no doubt but they are of like substance and temper with that which in time they shall be made. Wherefore as the flesh of Pheasants, Partridges, and Hens be of best juice, temper, quality, nourishment and digestion, so likewise their Eggs are wholsomest of all others. chose, as the Greek Proverb saith, Like Crow, like Egg. Neither can we imagine how any Egg should be wholesome, proceeding from an unwholesome or distempered creature. Wherefore we condemn (in the way of comparison) all Eggs of Turkeys, Peacocks, Geese, Ducks, and all waterfowl, preferring Hens Eggs before all other, because they are a most usual, familiar, and temperate meat.  

What kind of Eggs be best.  
In the choice of good Eggs observe these lessons,  
First, That they be rather Pullet's Eggs then laid by an old Hen.  
Secondly, That they be not self-begotten, but gotten by the Cock upon the Hen.  
Thirdly, That they be new, white, and long: For such Eggs nourish plentifully and quickly, clear the 
Scholar Salem. & Horat. Serm. lib. 2. Satyr. 4.  voice and breast, strengthen the stomach, recover men out of consumptions, and increase nature so much, that in continuance of time they make us wantoness. They nourish quickly, because they are nothing but liquid flesh: 
Rha. 4 ad Alm.  They nourish much, because their heat and moisture is proportionable unto ours: They are wholsomest in the morning, because they are then newest. They are best in winter, because Hens are then fattest, strongest, and best relished; they are worst in summer, because Hens feed then upon flies, snails, cadlocks, and many ill weeds, which rather scours than nourishes their bodies: They are best being eaten alone, because being mingled with orher meat, they corrupt in the stomach, filling many men's faces full of pimples, morphues, and freckles. They are ill for young children (especially being often eaten) for that their hot bodies turn them into overhot nourishment, whence itch, scabs, inflammations, and corruptions do arise. They are also as bad for old men, because they are hardly digested of a cold stomach; fittest they are for temperate young persons, and such as are consumed without any notable fever.  
Concerning the nature of other Birds Eggs, besides Hens. Epenaetus extolleth Peacocks Eggs before all 
Athen. l. 3. c▪ 7.  other, and then the Eggs of Berganders, and lastly of Pheasants, Partridges, and Turkeys, whose judgement I would have throughly confuted, had not daily experience, and Antonius Gazius his arguments done it already. And verily whosoever will taste other eggs then which daily we use, shall find none void of a strong savour and bad relish, saving the eggs of Pheasants, Partridges, Berganders, Ostriches, Turkeys, Ducks and Geese, though the three last named be bad enough. Yet if Duck's eggs be hatched under a Hen, they eat more sweetly, and Goose eggs also hatched under them, are 
Avicenna & Albertus.  thought by Simeon Sethi no unwholesome meat. Pigeons eggs are exceeding hot, and of ill taste, hardly hardening by long seething. The eggs of Sparrows increase lust, strengthen the heart, and nourish abundantly: As for the eggs of other birds, great and small, howsoever they are eaten (as Rhasis saith) in the way of medicine, 
4. Ad Almans  yet they give either none or no good nourishment. But Hen's eggs are so temperate and nourishing, that Galen himself in certain continual fevers, gave them usually to 
12 de meth. med.  his Patients to restore spirits,: and not without reason, being of so fine a substance, and freed in a manner from all hurtfulness; for they moisten us in fever Hectics, they nourish us in consumptions, they strengthen us in fluxes, they bridle sharp humours when they gripe us, restore spirits in weakness of heart, they speedily pass from a clean stomach, neither are they forbidden in a straight and thin diet, did they not nourish oversoon. Gesner showeth a good reason, why new white and long 
lib 2. de avib▪  eggs be the best of all other. First, because new eggs are ever full, but old eggs lose every day somewhat of their substance, and in the end waxing addle stink like urine, whereupon they were called of the Latins Ova urinae. Secondly, the whitest eggs have the palest yolks, and most thin, fine, little bloody strings swimming upon them. Thirdly, the longest eggs are commonly cock-eggs and therefore of better nourishment. Some eggs are almost all yolk and no white, yea some have two yolks in them, others have in a manner no yolk at all, or (at the most) nothing proportionable: the former sort nourish most, the other are fittest for hot stomaches.   

The dressing of Eggs.  
Concerning the preparation of them, a rare egg any way dressed is lightest of digestion, a hard egg is most rebellious, an egg betwixt both is of strongest nourishment. Brassavola reporteth a Monk to have been made so costiff with hard eggs, that no art was available to give him on stool. Furthermore all hard eggs, especially hardened by frying, get from the fire a smoky and hot nature, and from the frying-pan and burnt butter a malign quality, not only as offenssive to the stomach as rotten eggs, but also sending up bad vapours to the brain and heart. Eggs potcht into water or verjuce are fittest for hot complexions, or men distempered with agues; sodden rare in the shell they are soon converted into blood; but being rare-roasted in embers they make thickest and strongest blood, and are fittest for weak, cold and waterish stomaches. Thus much 
Avic. Fen. 1. tract: 1. cap. 8. Lib. de san tu▪  of Birds eggs, which in a little quantity nourish much, and are called of Ficinus, the quintessence of flesh; because they yield so speedy and fine nourishment.  
Now it resteth to discourse something of Tortoises eggs, which be not poisonable nor hurtful (as the eggs of Snakes, Lizards, and Chamaeleons) but very fit to 
Pisanel de esc. & potul.  nourish men in hot agues, when all birds eggs may be suspected of inflaming the blood; for they are of a more phlegmatic nature, tempering hot humours, procuring sleep to the watchful, moisture to the dried person, and inspiring as it were a second life, to such as seem desperately consumed of hot fevers▪ Sir Wil Pelham (that worthy & valiant Knight) kept them in his garden at the Minories by the Tower of London, where I wondered much at the beast and more at her eggs: for contrary to the nature of hens eggs, the most spotted were the best, and the hardest of shell the best likewise; and they are worst when they are newest, best when they are three months old.  
Last of all, as touching that question made by Plutack, 
l. sym. 2. quae. 3.  and disputed of him more wittily then wisely of either side, Whether the Hen or the Egg be first in nature, I omit it as a foolish and superfluous doubt, sith common sense and reason telleth us, that the perfecter creatures were first made, and the whole is more ancient than that which is gotten of the whole.   

Of Blood.  
Blood being the charet-man or coacher of life, was 
L●vit. 7.  expressly forbidden the Israelites, though it were but the blood of beasts, partly because they were naturally given to be revengeful and cruel hearted, partly also because no blood is much nourishing out of the body, albeit in the body it is the only matter of true nourishment: 
Cael. lib. 13 cap. ●. A. L.  Nevertheless the Laconians black broth, so highly commended of Dionysius, was made of kids blood sodden with water, vinegar and salt; yea the Bisalta of Scythia make pottage of horses blood & milk, accounting 
Virgil. 3. Geo. Guag. in Tart.  it their best and strongest meat. Also in Aegira Bulls blood is so far from being poisonable (as it is in all other places) that it is held both delicate and restorative; so likewise is the blood of a Mare that was never covered; for if she once have taken horse her blood is dangerous. Drusus the Tribune purposing to accuse Quintus Caepio 
Pl. l. 28. cap. 9  of giving him poison, drank Goats blood a good while before, whereby he waxed so pale and colourless, that many indeed suspected him to have been poisoned by Caepio: whereby it is manifest, that blood hath been a very ancient nourishment, and not lately devised by our country pudding writes, or curious sauce makers, as jason Pratensis and other foolish dietists have imagined. Nay (which is more) not only the blood of beasts hath been given for meat, but also the blood of men and striplings hath been drunk for a restorative; yea in Rome (the seat and nurse of all inhumanity) Physicians did prescribe their patients the blood of Wrestlers, causing them to suck it warm breathing and spinning out of their veins, drawing into their corrupt bodies a sound man's life, and sucking that in with both lips, which a dog is not suffered to lick with his tongue; yea they were not ashamed to prescribe them a meat made of man's marrow and infants brains. The Grecians afterwards were as bold and impious as the Romans, tasting of every inward and outward part of man's body, not leaving the nails unprosecuted. But of all other I wonder most at Marsilius Ficinus, a most famous Scholar and accounted 
Mars. Fie. de. studios●●n ●ue. I b. 2. cap. 1●.  for a good Catholic, who hath thus written of the use of man's blood. No doubt (saith he) the milk of a young and sound woman is very restorative for old men, but the liquor of man's blood is far better; which old women-witches knowing to be true, they get young children unto them, and prick or wound them, and suck their blood to preserve their own health and life. And why may not then old men (I pray you) for a need, suck likewise the blood of a young man or maid, which is merry, lusty, sound, and willing to spare some of his superfluous blood for another man's life? wherefore I advise them to suck an ounce or two of blood, fasting, out of the vein of the left arm, at a little orifice, towards the full of the moon, drinking presently upon it some wine and sugar, etc. Which though he protesteth himself to 
Avic. l▪ 1. d●c. 3  have uttered as a great secret (though the Prince of Abohaly writ as much before in his Old-man's diet) and to be as lawful as it is helpful in Physics practise: yet by his leave I dare again protest and prove the contrary; for it is unlawful to gaze upon a man's carcase, and is it lawful to eat or drink his blood? what remedy call you that, which is more savage and abominable than the grief itself? what law, what reason, nay what conjecture found out this cannibals diet? well, let it proceed from the Americans and Barbarians: nay, from the Grecians, that were counted civil. Let Democritus dream and comment, that some diseases are best cured with anointing the blood of strangers and malefactors, others with the blood of our friends and kinsfolks; let Miletus cure 
Plin. l. 28. ca 1.  sore eyes with men's galls; Artemon the falling sickness with dead men's sculls: Antheus convulsions with pills made of dead men's brains; Apollonius bad gums with dead men's teeth; but far be it from any humane or Christian heart (brag we of this foolish invention never so much) to suck away one another's life in the blood of young men, wherein Charles the 9 King of France being but outwardly bathed for his leprosy, died therefore and for other his cruel massacres a most bloody death: wherefore let us content ourselves with the blood of geese▪ swans, hogs and sheep in our sauce and puddings, which yet are but a gross and fulsome nourishment, unless they meet with a strong and good stomach.    

CHAP. XVII.  
Of Fish generally, and the difference thereof.  
AS amongst Poets there is some called the Coryphaeus, or Captain-poet, so fareth it likewise amongst meats. Some preferring fruit as being most ancient, 
Pis. de esc. & potul. Corn. cells. l. 2.  cleanly, natural, and needing either none or very little preparation. Others extol flesh, as most suitable to fleshy creatures, and giving most and best nourishment. But the finest feeders and dainty bellies did not delight 
Plut. 4. symp. qu 4.  in flesh with Hercules, or in fruit with Plato and Arcesilaus, but with Numa and Philocrates in variety of fish; which Numa made a law, that no fish without scales nor without fins should be eaten of the people, whereupon I may justly collect and gather, that he was not ignorant of Moses law. Also (according to the vain dream of 
Leu. 11. v. 9 10.  Gregory the great Bishop of Rome, and the author of the Carthusian order) he put more holiness in fish then in flesh, falsely imagining flesh to be a greater motive to lust and lasciviousness, than the use of fish; which frivolous conceit is before sufficiently confuted in the seventh Chapter, and needeth not to be shaken again in this place. Now I will not deny, that fish is a wholesome meat, if such fish could be always gotten as may sufficiently nourish the body; but now a days it so falleth out through iniquity of times, or want of providence, or that our Sea-coast and Rivers are more barren of fish then heretofore; that in the Spring time, when we ought to feed on the purest and most wholesome nourishment, our blood is not cleansed but corrupted with filthy fish, I mean saltherrings, red-herrings, sprats, Haberdin, and greenfish: which are not amiss for Sailors and Ploughman, but yet most hurtful and dangerous for other persons. Gatis 
Athen l. 8. c. 6. Caelius lib. 23. 〈◊〉 5. antiq. lect.  Queen of Syria made a Law, that no meal should pass through the year, without fish: which if it were as firmly made and executed in England, no doubt much flesh would be spared, and Navigation and fisher men maintained through the land: neither should we need to imitate Gregory the Lent-maker, persuading men to eat only fish at that time, when it is most out of season, most hardly gotten, and most hurtful to the bodies of most men. Also in high Germany there is both fish and flesh continually set upon the table, that every man's appetite, humour and complexion, may have that which is fittest for it: in which Country though no Lent be observed (except of a few Catholics) yet is there abundance of flesh, all the year long, restraint being only made in Spring time of killing that which is young.  

Differences of Fish in kind.  

lib. 32. not hist. cap. 11.  Concerning the kinds of Fishes, Pliny maketh a hundred threescore and seventeen several sorts of them, whereof some being never seen nor known of in our Country, it were but folly to repeat them. As for them which we have and feed on in England, they are either scaled, as Sturgian, salmon, grailing, shuins, carp, bream, base, mullet, barbel, pike, luce, perch, ruffs, herrings, sprats, pilchers, roch, shades, dorry, gudgeon, and umbers; or shelled, as scallopes, oysters, muzzles, cockles, periwinkles; or crusted over, as crabs, lobsters, crevisses, shrimps; or neither scalded, shelled, nor crusted: as Tunny, ling, cod, hake, haberdine, haddock, seal, conger, lampreyes, lamperns, eels, plaise, turbut, flounder, skate, thorneback, maids, sole, curs, gildpoles, smelts, cuttles, sleeves, pouts, dogfish, poulps, yards, mackerel, trout, tenches, cooks, whiting, gournards, and rochets: To which also we may add, Sticklebacks and minoes, and spirlings, and anchovaes, because they are also neither scaled, crusted, nor defended with shells.  
As for the goodness or badness of fish, it is lessened or increased upon three causes; the place they live, in the meat they feed on, and their manner of dressing or preparation. Concerning the first, some live in the Sea, some in Rivers, some in Ponds, some in Fenny creeks and meers.   

Difference of Fish in respect of place.  
Sea-fish as it is of all other the sweetest, so likewise the least hurtful; for albeit they are of a thicker and more fleshy substance, yet their flesh is most light and easy of concoction, insomuch that Zeno and Crato (two notable Physians in Plutarcks' time) commended them 
Plut. 4. symp. 4▪ quest.  above all other to their sick patients, and not without desert; for as the Sea-aire is purest of all other, because it is most tossed and purified with winds, so the water thereof is most laboured, and nourisheth for us the wholesomest and lightest meat; lightest, because continual exercise consumeth the Sea-fish superfluities; wholesomest, because the salt water (like to bucklye) washeth away their inward filth and uncleaness. Of Sea fish those are best, which live not in a calm and muddy Sea, tossed neither with tides nor winds; for there they 
Gal. 3. de alim. fac.  wax nought for want of exercise; but they which live in a working Sea, whose next continent is clean, gravelly, sandy, or rocky, running towards the North-east wind, must needs be of a pure and wholesome nourishment, less moist and clammy than the others, easier also of concoction, sooner turned into blood, and every way fitter for man's body. This is the cause why the Oritae 
Plin. lib. 7. c. 2. & lib. 16. ca 1.  and Northern-people live as well with fish alone, as we do here with such variety of flesh; even I say the goodness, lightness, and wholesomeness of their fish, which is not brought unto us till it be either so stinking or salt, that all their goodness is gone or dried up.  
River-Fish likewise are most wholesome and light, when they swim in rocky, sandy, or gravelled Rivers, running Northward or Eastward, and the higher they swim up, the better they are: chose, those which abide in slow, short, and muddy Rivers, are not only of an excremental and corrupt juice, but also of a bad smell and ill taste.  
Pond-fish is soon fatted through abundance of meat and want of exercise; but they are nothing so sweet as River-fish, unless they have been kept in some River to scour themselves, especially when they live in little standing ponds, not fed with continual springs, nor refreshed from some River or Sea with fresh water.  
Fenny-fish of all other is most slimy, excremental, unsavoury, last digested, and soon corrupted; having neither free air, nor sweet water, nor good food to help or better themselves; such are the fish of that lake in 
Plin l. 31. ca 2.  Armenia, where all the fish be black and deadly: and albeit our English meers be not so bad, yet verily their fish is bad enough, especially to stomaches of other Conntries, unacquainted with such muddy and unwholesome meats.   

Differences of Fish in respect of their feeding.  
Concerning the meats which fishes feed on; some feed 
Plin. l. 32. ca▪ ●.  upon salt and saltish mud (as near Leptis in Africa, and in Eubaea, and about Dyrrhachium) which maketh their flesh as salt as brine, and altogether unwholesome for most stomaches: Others upon bitter weeds and roots, which maketh them as bitter as gall, of which though we have none in our Seas or Rivers, yet in the Island of 
Plin. l. 32. c. 2.  of Pene and Clazomene they are very common: Also (if Pliny may be credited) about Cephalenia, Anipelos, Paros and the Delian rocks, fish are not only of a sweet taste, but also of an aromatical smell: whether it is by eating of sweet roots, or devouring of amber and ambre-grice. Some also feed and fat themselves near to the common-sewers, sinks, channels and draughts of great Cities; whose chiefest meat is either carrion or dung; whereas indeed the proper meat for fish, is either flies, frogs, grasshoppers, young fry and spawn, and chiefly certain wholesome roots, herbs, and weeds, growing in the bottom or sides 
Plin. li. 32 c. 2.  of Seas and Rivers. Caesar, Crasus, and Curius fed them with livers and flesh; so also did the Hieropolitans in Venus' lake. In Champagny they fed them with bread; yea Vidius Pollio fed them with his condemned Slaves, 
Suet in vita▪ Severi.  to make them the more fat and pleasant in taste. But neither they that are fed with men, nor with garbage or carrion nor with citty-filth, nor with any thing we can devise, are so truly sweet, wholesome, and pleasant, as they which in good Seas and Rivers feed themselves, enjoying both the benefit of fresh air, agreeable water, and meat cor respondent to their own nature.   

Difference of Fish in respect of preparation.  
Concerning their difference of goodness in preparation: I must needs agree with Diocles, who being asked, whether were the better fish, a Pike or a Conger; That 
Athen. l. 8 c 6.  (said he) sodden, and this broiled; showing us thereby, that all flaggy, slimy, and moist fish, (as Eels, conger's, Lampreys, Oysters, Cockles, Muzzles, and Scallopes) are best broiled, roasted, or baked; but all other fish of a firm substance and drier constitution is rather to be sodden, as the most part of fish before named.  
Last of all, we are to consider what fish we should chiefly choose; namely the best grown, the fattest, and the newest.   

How to choose the best Fish.  
The best grown, showeth that it is healthy and hath not been sick, which made Philoxenus the Poet at Dionysius 
Athen. l. 8. c. 3▪  table, to request him to send for Aesculapius' Priest to cure the little barbles that were served in at the lower Mess, where he sat. If a fish be fat, it is ever young: if it be new it is ever sweet; if it be fed in muddy or filthy water, keep it not till the next day, for it soon corrupteth; but if it be taken out of clean feeding, it will keep the longer.   

Rules to be observed in the eating of fish.  
Sodden fish or broiled fish, is presently to be eaten hot; for being kept cold after it but one day (unless it be covered with wine pickle or vinegar) it is corrupted by the air in such sort, that sometimes (like to poisonfull mushrooms) it strangleth the eaters: also fish coming out of a pan is not to be covered with a platter, lest the vapour congealed in the platter drop down again upon the fish; whereby that fish which might else have nourished: will either cause vomiting or scouring, or else corrupt within the veins.  
Finally, whosoever intendeth to eat a fish dinner, let him not heat his body first with exercise, lest the juice of his meat (being too soon drawn by the liver) corrupt the whole mass of blood; and let no fish be sodden or eaten without salt, pepper, wine, onions, or hot spices; for all fish (compared with flesh) is cold and moist, of little nourishment, engendering waterish and thinn blood. And if any shall think that because Crabs, Skate, Cockles, and Oysters procure lust, therefore they are likewise of great nourishment. The argument is denied; for though they blow up the body with wine, and make good store of sharp nature, which tickleth and inciteth us to venery; yet that seed is unfruitful, and that lust wanteth sufficiency, because it cometh not from plenty of natural seed, but from an itching quality of that which is unnatural. Thus much generally of fish, in the way of a Preface; now let us speak particularly of every fish eaten, or taken by us in this Island.    

CHAP. XVIII.  
Of SEA-FISH.  
SEa-fish, may be called that sort of fish, which chiefly liveth, feedeth, breedeth, and is taken in salt water; of which I will write according to the letters of the Alphabet, that every man may readily find out the fishes name, whose nature or goodness he desires to know of.  

Encrasicholi.  
Anchovaes' are but the Sea▪ minoes of Provence and Sardinia; which being powdered with salt, wine-vinegar and origanum, and so put up into little barrels, are carried into all Greece, and there esteemed for a most dainty meat. It seemeth that the people of those hot Countries are very often distempered and distasted of their meat; wherefore to recover their appetite they feed upon Anchovaes', or rather taste one or two of them; whereby not only to them, but also to us appetite is restored: I could wish that the old manner of barrelling them up with origanum, salt and and wine-vinegar were observed; but now they taste only of salt, and are nothing so pleasant as they were wont to be: They are fittest for stomaches oppressed with fleam, for they will cut, ripen, and digest it, and warm the stomach exceeding well; they are of little nourishment, but light enough if they were not so over-salted; they are best dressed with oil, vinegar, pepper, and dried origanum, and they must be freed from their outward skin & the ridge-bone & be washed in wine, before they be laid in the dish.   

Variatae. Alburni marini.  
Bleaks of the Sea, or Sea-bleaks, called of Dr Cajus Variatae, or Sea-cameleons (because they are never of one colour, but change with every light and object, like to changeable silk) are as sound, firm and wholesome as any Carp; there be great plenty of them in our Southern Seas, betwixt Rye and Exeter, and they are best sodden, because they are so fine and so firm a meat.   

Abramides marinae.  
Bream of the Sea, be of a white and solid substance, good juice, most easy digestion and good nourishment.   

Piscis Capellanus. Asellus medius.  
Codfish is a great Sea-whiting, called also a Keeling or Melwel; of a tender flesh but not fully so dry and firm as the Whiting is: Cod have a bladder in them full of eggs or spawn, which the Northern men call the kelk, and esteem it a very dainty meat; they have also a thick and gluish substance at the end of their stomach called a swoon, more pleasant in eating then good of nourishment; for the toughest fish-glue is made of that. Of all parts of the fresh Cod, the head, lips, and palate is preferred, being a very light though a slimy meat   

Pectines. Pectunculi.  
Cocks and Cockles are commended by Scribonius 
Lib. 32 cap. 7  Largus, for strengthening the stomach. Pliny saith they increase flesh, but certain it is that they increase lust; for they themselves are so hot of nature, that they leap and fly above water like an arrow, in the summer nights 
Plin. l. 9 c. 29.  to be cooled by the air, Alexander Benedictus reporteth, that some with eating too many Cockles have become stark fools. Their broth loosneth the body, but their flesh stays it. Galen commends them for a good 
3. de simp. sac.  meat, but dangerous to them that are subject to the stone or falling sickness. The best Cockles keep in sandy seas, which maketh the Purbeck and Selsey Cockles so highly esteemed; they are best in the month of May, for then are they fullest, lustiest, and cleanest of gravel. To avoid their gravel, keep them in salt water or brine a whole day before you eat them, and if you shift them into fresh water or brine when the tide is coming, they will open themselves, and spew out all their gravel and filthiness. Choose the greatest and the whitest of them, and of all shell fish, they are best broiled in a frying pan, neither are they ill being sod in water with salt, pepper, parsley, dried mints, and cinnamon, after the French fashion.   

Conger.  
Conger is nothing but a sea-eele of a white sweet and fatty flesh: little conger's are taken in great plenty in the Severn, betwixt Gloucester and Tewksbury, but the great ones keep only in the salt seas, which are whiter-flesht, and more tender; they feed (as eels do) upon fat waters at the mouths of rivers running into the sea: they are hard of digestion for most stomaches, engendering chollicks if they be eaten cold, & leprosies if they be eaten hot after their seething. Philemon the Comical Poet seeing a Conger 
Athen. l. 8. c. 6.  seething in a Cooks-shop for divers young Gentlemen, that bespoke it to dinner, suddenly snatched away the 
Vict. l. 18. c. 17. var. lect.  pan wherein it boiled, and ran away with it, the Gentlemen followed and catcht at him like a number of Chickens; whom he had crossed, and turned, and mocked for a great while, till having sported himself enough, he flung down pan and all with these words: O humane folly! how do fools long for unwholesome meats? for he thought Conger to be bad enough of its own nature, but far worse if it were eaten hot out of the pan. In England we do not amiss first to boil it tender in water with salt, time, parsley, bays, and hot herbs, then to lay it covered in vinegar, and then to broil it; for so is it a meetly good nourishment in Summer, for hot stomaches.   

Merula.  
The Cook-fish, is so called of the seamen, because he so pleasantly tasteth when he is well sod, as though he had seasoned himself with salt and spices. They are very rare, but tender and light of nourishment; and there is never seen of them past one at once, which caused the Latins to call them Merulas, that is to say the Solitarians or Hermits or Blackbirds of the Sea.   

Cancri marini.  
Crabs of the Sea, be of divers sorts; some smoothcrusted, and some rough-casted as it were, and full of prickles, called Echinometrae: The first sort hath the two foremost claws very big and long, the other wanteth them; wherefore as they go side wi●e, so these move not themselves but round about like a spiral line: the first sort are also very big, or never growing to be of any reasonable size. The great ones are called Paguri, whereof some weigh 10 l. weight; furthermore one sort of the great ones (which is the best of all) goeth so fast upon the shore, that the Grecians have termed them Hippeis, or light horsemen. The little sort of Crabs is softer shelld (called Pinnotheres) whose weakness is defended with abundance of wit; for whilst he is little, he hides himself in a little Oyster, and when he groweth bigger (yet is he never so big as our common crabb) he conveyeth himself into a bigger Oyster; of all sea-crabbs this is the lightest and wholesomest, next unto them are our ordinary crabs, but somewhat harder of digestion; both of them nourish much, and are highly commended, in consumptions of lungs and spittings up of blood, not only by Dioscorides, Pliny, and Avicen, but also by all writers, especially if Ass' milk be drunk with them.  
As for their manner of preparation, their vents are first to be stopped with a sticks end, and then they are to be sodden in water for such as are costiff, or in wine for them which are loose bellied; some seeth them in vinegar, water, and salt; but Galen saith that then they 
Gal 9 comp. sec. loc.  are best, when they are sod in that water out of which they were taken; the fuller of eggs the better they are, for the female is preferred. Our great sea-crabbs (either of the smooth or rough kind) full of a yellowish red and strong pulp, lushish in taste, and bought dear, are of a very hard digestion, except they light upon a very strong stomach. They also overheat and inflame the body, whereas chose the lesser sort do cool and moisten it. The broth of all of them consume the stone, and cureth Quartains being drunk every morning fasting they are best in season in the spring and fall, as also at the full of the moon.   

Cuculi marini.  
Curs are supposed by Dr Cajus to be all one with our Gurnard; but it somewhat differeth, being of a very firm, whitish, dry, sound, and wholesome flesh; they are best sodden with salt, water, mace, nutmegs, parsley and vinegar.   

Sepiae. vel Lolligines calamariae.  
Cuttles (called also sleeves for their shape, and scribes for their incky humour wherewith they are replenished) 
de alim fac.  are commended by Galen for great nourishers; their skins be as smooth as any woman's, but their flesh as brawny as any ploughman's, therefore I fear me Galen rather commended them upon hear-say, then upon any just cause or true experience; Apicius, that great Master-cook, makes sausages of them with lard and other things; which composition I would not have omitted, if it had been worth the penning.   

Canis Cetaceus.  
Dogfish is strong▪ hard, and of gross and bad juice: 
lib. de af●●. in't.  albeit Hypocrates commends it in Pleuresies, and also in the skin-dropsie or Anasarca. The Dorry is very like to a Sea-bream, of most excellent taste, constitution, and nourishment, being either backed, or sodden whilst it is alive in wine, water, salt, vinegar, and pennirial.   

Mustelae.  
Eele-powtes are best in April, May and September; their spawn is counted very hurtful, but their flesh is white, firm, and of good nourishment, and their livers most sweet and delicate: seeth them as you do a Dorry, and then broil them a little to make them easier of digestion, or else boil them as you do Sturgian, and so eat them cold.   

Rhombi marini.  
Sea-Flounders are very thick, firm, and yet light of digestion, they are exceeding good for aguish persons being well sod, and for some men, being fried in vinegar and butter.   

Lucernae.  
Giltheads or Golden-poles, are very little unlike the Gournard, save that it seems about the noddle of the head, as though it were all besprinkled with gold-filings, it is something harder of digestion, as Galen writeth.   

Cuculi majores.  
Gurnards' are of two sorts, Swart or Reddish; either of them are within of a white, firm, dry, firm, and wholesome substance; giving our bodies a competent nourishment, being sodden in white wine-vinegar, salt, mace, and onions, or else being sodden only in wine and then soused.   

Asellus. Islandicus.  
Gaberdine is nothing but an Island Cod, bigger somewhat than ours, and also firmer.   

Asselluli.  
Haddock's are little Cod, of light substance, crumbling flesh, and good nourishment in the Summer time, especially whilst Venison is in season.   

Aselluli longi.  
Hakes be of the same nature, resembling a Cod in taste, but a Ling in likeness.   

Aquila marina.  

3. de. al. fa c. 31  The Sea-Hawke is of hard flesh & slow digestion, as Galen avoucheth from Philotimus mouth; smelling strong and heavily, not to be eaten without leeks, onions, and garlic   

Haleces.  
Herrings are an usual and common meat, coveted as much of the Nobility for variety and wantonness, as used of poor men for want of other provision: it is one of the Cardinal supporters of our holy Lent, and therefore not 
cap. 185.  to be ill spoken of: yet Thomas Cogan (in his Haven of Health) saith that by eating of fresh Herring many fall into fevers, and that Red-herring gives as good nourishment to the body, as resty Bacon. And truly I dare avouch, that new bloat-herrings are little better; and pickled herrings far worse, though you correct them with never so much vinegar, salt, pepper and oil. As for salt Herring well watered or qualified in warm milk, they taste not ill after they are broiled, but yet they give none or a bad nourishment; saving to Ploughman, Sailors, Soldiers, Mariners, or labouring persons, to whom gross and heavy meats are most familiar and convenient.   

Rhinocerotes. Acus.  
Horne-beaks are ever lean (as some think) because they are ever fight; yet are they good and tender, whether they be eaten fresh or powdered. Highly be they commended of Alexander Benedictus in the plague time, because they breed no unwholesome or excremental humours.   

Leucisci marini.  
Javelins or Sea-darts are plentiful in the Venetian gulf and all the Adriatic Sea; where having taken the young ones, they salted them and send them to Constantinople in infinite number for Anchovaes'; the greater sort they fry and boil at home, being of a very sweet and soft flesh.   

Miluus marinus.  
Keelings differ nothing but in name from Cod. The Sea-Kite, called of Pliny Hirundo volans, the flying Swallow, resembleth much the flying Herrings so plentiful about the West-Indies, which finding not proper meat within the waters, flieth after gnats and muskitoes like a swallow. Sir Francis Drake (whom thankful posterity will worthily esteem) did first show me one of them dead, and I think he was one of the first of our Nation, that did ever eat them; they are of a good taste, tender flesh, but somewhat aguish after the nature of fresh Herrings.   

Asellus.  
Ling perhaps looks for great extolling, being counted the beef of the Sea, and standing every fish day (as 
This Asellus is also by Jul. Scaliger, and ●ac. Cujacius rendered stockfish perhaps because like unto the Afse, not serviceable or fit for use till well beaten.  a cold supporter) at my Lord Mayor's table; yet is it nothing but a long Cod: whereof the greater sised is called Organ Ling, and the other Coddling, because it is no longer than a Cod, and yet hath the taste of Ling: whilst it is new it is called greenfish, when it is salted it is called Ling, perhaps of lying, because the longer it lieth (being conveniently turned, and the Peace-straw often shifted wherein it lieth) the better it is, waxing in the end as yellow as the gold noble, at which time they are worth a noble a piece. They are taken only in the far Northern Seas, where the sweetest and biggest live; but coddlings are taken in great plenty near to Bedwell in Northumberland shire.   

Locustae marinae.  
Lobsters are of a strong and hard flesh, and hard of concoction; the belly, claws and upper parts are most tender, the tail parts tough; when they are seething their mouth and lower vent should be stopped with tow, lest the liquor being bettered with their juice, they themselves prove flashy and unpleasant in taste. As the 
Athen.  River Lobster or Crevisse seemeth (as Dorion said) to be made only for weak stomaches; so I think these are ordained only for the stronger sort: for I have known many weak persons venture on them to their great hurt, as chose sound stomaches do well digest them? Pliny saith, that in the Northwest Indian Seas there be 
lib 9 cap. 3.  Lobsters taken of two yard's length; whereof we have none, or if we had, yet can they not be so wholesome, for the least is tenderest, and the middle sised is best fleshed; as for the great ones they be old and tough, & will cause sorrow enough before they be well concocted. They come into season with the Buck, and go out of season when the do comes in; also in the wane of the moon they are little worth, and best towards and in the full: clove-vinegar and gilly flour-vinegar is their best sauce, and if you butter them after they are well sodden with store of vinegar and pepper, they will give a strong nourishment to an indifferent stomach; when their spawn lies greatest in their head, then are they in prime; but when all their spawn is out, then is their spawn good, and they wax bad.   

Lucij.  
Luce's are properly called Pikes of the Sea; so rare in Spain, that they are never seen. But our English Seas, especially which wash the Southern shore, have store of them which are large fat and good. Mr Huzzy of Cookfield sent me once a Luce out of Sussex a yard and a half long, which being presented by me to the Mirror of Chivalry (the Lord Willoughby of Eresby) was thought, and truly thought a most dainty fish; for it eateth more sweet, tender, and crisper than our river Pikes, and may be eaten of aguish persons, weak stomaches, and women in childbed. Their feed is chiefly upon young fry, and spawns of fish: and by continual swimming (whereunto they are forced by beating of the surges) they become tenderer than our fresh water Pikes, though not so fat.   

Orbs.  
Lumps are of two sorts, the one as round almost as a bowl, the other resembling the fillets of a Calf; either of them is deformed, shapeless and ugly, so that my Maids once at Ipswich were afraid to touch it, being flayed they resemble a soft and gelid substance, whereupon the Hollanders call them Snot-fish; I liked not their substance, taste, nor qualities, for they were (as they are written of) a cured, raw, and fleagmatick meat, much like to a Thorne-back half sodden, they are best being boiled and pickled like Sturgian, and so eaten cold.   

Scombri.  
Mackerel were in old time in such request, that two gallons of their pickle (called the pickle of good fellows) 
Plin. l. 31. c. ●.  was sold for a thousand pieces of silver; but time and experience described them to be of a thick, clammy and suffocating substance, offensive to the brain, head, and breast, though pleasant in taste, and acceptable to the stomach: Certain it is that they cause drousiness in the 
Arnol. de vil. nou. come. in▪ Sch. Sal.  best stomaches, and apoplexies, or palsies, or lethargies, or dulness (at the least) of sense and sinews to them that be weak. Tralianus rightly adviseth all persons sick of fleagmatick diseases, and of stops, to beware of Mackerel as a most dangerous meat: albeit their liver helpeth 
Aelianus.  the jaundice, being sod in vinegar, and their flesh sod in vinegar cureth the suffocation of the matrix: they are best being sod in wine-vinegar with mints, parsley, rosemary, and time, and if afterwards they be kept in pickle, made of Rhennish wine, ginger, pepper, and dill, they prove a very dainty and no unwholesome meat; they are worst of all buttered. The French men lay Southernwood upon a gridiron, & them upon the Southernwood, and so broil them both upon the fire, basting them well with wine and butter, and so serve them in with vinegar, pepper and butter, as hot as can be; by which way no doubt their malignity is much lessened, and their goodness no less increased.   

Rajolae.  
Maids are as little and tender Skates, feeding chiefly upon flesh, livers, and spawn of fish; whereas other fish bring forth eggs, which are in time converted into their parent's shape; only Maids Skate and Thorne-back bring forth their young ones without eggs, after the kind of propagation of beasts: they are very nourishing and of good juice, fit for weak stomaches, and such as have through wantonness spoiled themselves and robbed nature. Boil them in wine water and salt, with a sprig of rosemary, and then eat them with vinegar, pepper, and sweet butter.   

Mugiles marini. Italice Cephalo.  
Sea-Mullets differ little or nothing in shape from Barbels, saving that they are very little or nothing bearded, and those that have beards, have them only on the neither lip.  
There is store of them in the mouth of the river of 
Plin. l. 9 cap. 8.  Usk, and perhaps as many as at Lateran in Province. They are so swift, that they often outswim the lightest Ships; which argueth them to be of a light and aeireal substance: It is strange what is written of this fish; 
Plin. l. 32. c. 7.  namely that it should hurt Venus' game; yea that the very broth of it, or the wine wherein it is sodden should make a man unable to get, and a woman unable to conceive 
L. de Venereis.  children. Nay furthermore Terpsides avoucheth, that a little of that broth being mingled with hen's meat, maketh them barren though never so well trodden of the Cock; whereupon he saith, The Poets have consecrated the Sea-Mullets to Diana, as being the procurer and preserver of chastity; which if it be true (as I can hardly think it is) than farewell Paracelsus his cabalistical conclusion, or rather the follies of Avicen and many Arabians, which give the stones, brains, and combs, of most lascivious birds (as Cocks, Pheasants, Partridges, Drakes and Sparrows) to stir up lust and increase seed: for the Sea-Mullet is so lascivious, that a thousand Females swim after one Male as soon as they have spawned, and the Males likewise strive as much if they have not choice of Females; yea whereas in a manner all kind of fish, spawn but once a year; they come (like to swine among beasts) thrice a year at the least; yet are they (as men say, and as many have written since) abaters of courage, extinguishers of seed, and charms as it were against conception: Nevertheless sith their flesh is 
Plin. 9 c. 17.  wholesome, white, sweet, and tender, and they feed clean and good, I dare boldly aver them to be much nourishing; being first well sodden in wine, salt, and water, and then either soused like a Gurnard, or kept in jelly like a Tench, or eaten hot with vinegar and pepper. Of the eggs and blood of this fish mixed with salt (which must not be omitted in this discourse) is also made that which the Italians call Botargo, from the Greek words 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 or salted eggs.   

Mityli. Chamae.  
Mussels were never in credit, but amongst the poorer sort; till lately the lily white Mussel was found out about Romerswall, as we sail betwixt Flushing and Bergen-●p-Zon, where indeed in the heat of Summer, they are commonly and much eaten without any offence to the head, liver or stomach; yea myself (whom once twenty Mussels had almost poisoned at Cambridg, and who have seen sharp, filthy, and cruel diseases follow the eating of English Mussels) did fill myself with those Mussels of the Low Country, being never a whit distempered with my bold adventure. Dr Wotton saith that the least 
L de diff. anim.  Mussels be ever best, because they are whitest softest, and soon digested, but the great ones give a stronger and larger nourishment; the red ones are very dangerous, yellow ones are suspected, but the white ones are wholesome and much commended, save unto hot and distempered stomaches: they are best sodden in the water out of which they were taken, which being not obtained, seeth them in water and salt, and a little strong Ale and Vinegar: broiled Mussels increase heat and draught; fried Mussels do easily corrupt in our bodies, and turn to a bad juice. If they be kept in the like pickle, as lately is devised by Sergeant Goodrons to keep Oysters in (made of sea water, wine, vinegar, bayleaves, mints, pepper, ginger, and cinnamon) I durst warrant them as wholesome, and questionless more pleasant than the Oyster. As for horse-mussels they deserve not the remembrance, sith neither experience, custom, nor reason approveth them a wholesome meat; nay as 
lib. 32 c. 9  Pliny saith, Salem virusque refipiunt; they taste brackish and strong, having a hidden poison within their flesh; yet have I seen them ordinarily sold in Venice, which maketh me think that some Sea and River may have wholesome ones of that kind, though ours be neither wholesome nor pleasant of taste. They are exceeding big in Spain and the West Indies; but the greatest that ever I read of, is that which Juba recordeth in his volumes 
Plin. l. 32. c. 1.  written to Cajus (Augustus' son) being as big in compass as three pecks.   

Monachae.  
Nunfish were not seen in England till Sir Francis Drake and Mr Caundish brought them (no man knows out of what Seas) cleaving to the keels of their happy Vessels. It is a kind of shellfish, not winding like a Periwinkle, nor opening his shell (as Oysters, Mussels, and Cockles do) but creeping out of his craggy cabin, like a sea-snail, but that (as I said) his hole goeth straight inward and windeth not: the face of it is very white, the head is covered as it were with a black vail, like the Nuns of Saint Bridgets order, whereof I suppose it took the name. It feedeth upon sweet mud sticking upon Ships sides whilst they lie at Anchor, and is as wholesome and delicate a meat as any Periwinkle.   

Ostreae.  
Oysters do justly deserve a full treatise, being so common, and whithall so wholesome a meat; they differ in colour, substance, and bigness; but the best are thick, little and round shield, not sli ppery nor flaggy through abundance of a gelid humour, but short, firm, and thick of flesh, rising up round like a woman's breast, being in a manner all belly, and no fins; or at the most having very short fins, of a green colour, and listed about as with a purple hair, which will make them indeed to be justly called Calliblephara, that is to say, The fair eye 
Plin. l. 32. ca 6.  lidded Oysters; such are our Walfleet and Colchester Oysters; whose good relish, substance, and wholesomeness, far exceedeth the Oysters of Vsk, Pool, Southampton, Whitstable, Rye, or any other Port or Haven in England.  
Thus much concerning the body of Oysters, now somewhat concerning their bigness; Alexander with his (Friends and Physicians wondered to find Oysters in 
Plin. l. 32. ca 6.  the Indian seas a foot long. And in Pliny's time they marvelled at an Oyster, which might be divided into three morsels, calling it therefore Tridacnon by a peculiar name: but I dare and do truly affirm, that at my eldest Brothers marriage, at Aldham hall in Essex, I did see a Pelden Oyster divided into eight good morsels, whose shell was nothing less than that of Alexander's; but as the Greek Proverb saith, Goodness is not tied to greatness, but greatness to goodness; wherefore sith the little round Oysters be commonly best relished, and less fulsome, let them be of the greatest account, especially to be eaten raw, which of all other is thought to be the best way. Galen saith that they are somewhat heavy 
De cib bon. &. mal. succ.  of digestion, and engender fleagm; but as he knew not the goodness of English beef (when he condemned the use of all Ox-flesh) so had he tried the goodness of our Oysters, which Pliny maketh the second best of the 
Loco citato.  world, no doubt he would have given Oysters a better censure. That they are wholesome and to be desired of every man, this may be no small reason, that (almost) every man loves them, Item whereas no flesh or other fish is or can be dangerless being eaten raw, raw Oysters are never offensive to any indifferent stomach. Nay furthermore they settle a wayward appetite and confirm a weak stomach, and give good nourishment to decayed members, either through their own goodness, or that they are so much desired.  
Finally if they were an ill and heavy meat, why were they appointed to be eaten first? which is no new custom brought in by some late Physician: for one ask 
Athen. l 4 c. 3. Mac 3. sat. c. 13  Dromeas (who lived long before Athenaeus and Macrobius time) whether he liked best, the Feast of Athens or Chalcis? I like, said he, the Athenians Prologue better than the Chalcidians, for they began their feasts with Oysters, and these with honey▪ cakes: which argueth them to have been ever held for a meat of light digestion, else had they not always been eaten in the first place. It is great pity of the loss of Asellius the Sabins book written Dialogue-wise betwixt the Fig-finch, the Thrush and the Oysters, wherein upon just grounds he 
Su. in vita Ti●.  so preferred them before the Birds, that Tiberius Caesar rewarded him with a thousand pound Sterling. The fattest Oysters are taken in salt water at the mouth of Rivers, but the wholesomest and lightest are in the main 
C●lcus. Trallianus.  upon shelves and rocks; which also procure urine and stools, and are helps to cure the colic and dropsy, if they be eaten raw, for sodden Oysters bind the 
Gal. 5. de. sa. tu  belly, stop urine, and increase the colic. How dangerous it is to drink small drink upon Oysters it appeareth 
Gregr. hist. l. 9  by Andronicus the elder, who having made a great Dinner of Oysters, drank cold water upon them, whereupon he died, being not able to overcome them. And truly as Oysters do hardly corrupt of themselves; so if cold drink follow them they concoct as hardly: wherefore (especially having eaten many) drink either wine or some strong and hot beer after them, for fear of a mischief. Little Oysters are best raw, great Oysters should be stewed with wine, onions, pepper, and butter, or roasted with vinegar, pepper, and butter, or baked with onions, pepper, andbutter, or pickled with white-wine-vinegar, their own water, bays, mints, and hot spices; for of all ways they are worst sod, unless you seeth them in that sea water from whence they were brought.  
All Oysters are dangeours whilst they be full of milk, which commonly is betwixt May and August. Raw Oysters are best in cold weather, when the stomach is hottest, namely from September to April: albeit the Italians dare not venture on a raw Oyster at any time, but broil them in the shell with their water, the juice of an orange, pepper, and oil; which way I must needs confess it eats daintily. Pickled Oysters may be eaten at all times, and to my taste and judgement they are more commendable, chiefly to cold, weak, windy, distasted 
Lib. 32. cap. 6.  stomaches, than any way else prepared. I wonder whether it be true or no which I have heard of, and Pliny seemeth also to affirm, That Oysters may be kept all the year long covered in snow, and so be eaten in Summer as cold as can be; which if it prove answerable to the likelihood I conceive of it, I will cry out with Pliny in the same Chapter, Quanti quanti es▪ luxuria, quae summa montium & maris ima commisces? How great and powerful is riot, which maketh the highest covering of 
Seneca in ep.  mountains, and the lowest creatures of the seas to meet together? Yet it is recorded that Apicius the Roman, kept Oysters so long sweet (were it in snow, pickle, or brine) that he sent them from thence sweet and good to the Emperor Trajan, warring against the Parthians.   

Cochleae marinae.  
Perwinckles or Whelks, are nothing but sea-snails, feeding upon the finest mud of the shore and the best weeds; they are very nourishing and restorative, being sod at the seaside in their own sea water: the whitest flesh are ever best & tenderest, & they which are taken in clean creeks eat pleasant, but they which are gathered upon muddy shores eat very strongly and offend the eyesight. They 
Gal. 8. de comp med. sec. loc.  are best in winter and in the spring: for a stomach and liver resolved as it were and disposessed of strength. Apicius 
Apic. l. 7. c. 16.  warneth us to pick away the covering of their holes, for it is a most unwholesome thing, being nothing but a collection of all their slime hardened with seething. The best way to prepare them for sound persons is to seethe them in their own sea-water, or else in river water with salt and vinegar; But for weak and consumed persons Apicius willeth them (in the Book and Chapter aforesaid) to be thus dressed; take first the skin from their holes, and lay them for a day or two covered in salt and milk; the third day lay them only in new milk, then seeth them in milk till they be dead, or fry them in a pan with butter and salt.   

Passeres.  
Plaise (called the sea-sparrows, because they are brown above and white beneath) are of good, wholesome and fine nourishment. Arnoldus de villa nova writeth thus of them. Of all sea-fish Rochets and Gurnards' are to be preferred; for their flesh is firm, and their substance purest of all other. Next unto them Plaise and Soles are to be numbered, being eaten in time; for if either of them be once stale, there is no flesh more carrion-like nor more troublesome to the belly of man: the best Plaise have blackest spots, as the best flounder reddest, & the thicker, is most commended, and such as are taken upon the Eastern cost, as Rye, Sandwich, and Dover; could we have store at all times of such wholesome fish, at any reasonable rate, Jack-a-lent would be a cockhorse all the year long, and butcher's meat would go a begging.   

Alausae minores.  
Pilchers differ not only in age (as some dream) but even in substance and form from Herrings; for their flesh is firmer and fuller, and their body rounder, neither are they of so aguish an operation; they are best broiled, having lain a day in salt, and eaten with butter salt, & pepper.   

Porci marini.  
Porpesses, Tursions, or sea-hogs, are of the nature of swine, never good till they be fat, contrary to the disposion of Tunnies, whose flesh is ever best when they are leanest; it is an unsavoury meat, engendering many superfluous humours, augmenting fleagm, and troubling no less an indifferent stomach, than they trouble the water against a tempest; yet many Ladies and Gentlemen love it exceedingly, baked like venison; yea I knew a great Gentlewoman (in Warwick lane) once send for a pasty of it given from a Courtier) when the prisoners of Newgate had refused the fellow of it out of the Beggar's basket. Thus like lips like lettuce, and that which is most men's bane, may be fittest to delight and nourish others.   

Pol●pi.  
Poulps are hard of digestion, naught howsoever they be dressed, as Platina thinketh. But sith Hippocrates commendeth 
Lib. 1. de morb▪ mul.  them to women in childbed▪ I dare not absolutely dissuade the eating of them; especially sith Diphilus, Paulus, Aegineta, and Aetius commend them likewise, saying that they nourish much, and excessively provoke lust. Indeed if any would eat a 
Lae. in vit. Dio.  live pulp, to anger others and to kill himself, as Diogenes did (though some say that he died of a raw cow-heel, others that he stiffeld himself in his cloak) no doubt he shall find it a dangerous morsel; but being well sodden in salt water and wine, and sweet herbs, it is as dainty and far more wholesomer than a Mackrel.   

Anates marini.  
Puffins, whom I may call the feathered fishes, are accounted even by the holy fatherhood of Cardinals to be no flesh but rather fish; whose Catholic censure I will not here oppugn, though I have just reason for it, because I will not increase the Pope's Coffers; which no doubt would be filled, if every Puffin eater bought a pardon, upon true and certain knowledge that a Puffin were flesh: albeit perhaps if his Holiness would say, that a shoulder of Mutton were fish; they either would not or could not think it flesh.   

Aranei marini.  
Quawiners (for so the Scots and Northen English term them) are very subtle and crafty fishes, but utterly unwholesome for indifferent stomaches, though the poorer sort of the Orcadians eat them for hunger.   

Rubelliones.  
Rochets (or rather Rougets, because they are so red) differ from Gurnards' and Curs, in that they are redder by a great deal, and also lesser; they are of the like flesh and goodness yet better fried with onions, butter, and vinegar, then sodden; because they are so little, that seething would soak out their best nourishing substance.   

Pectines veneris.  
Scallopes are called Venus' Cockles, either because she was borne in one of them, or because she loved them 
Lib 32 cap. 11  above all other meat. Pliny extolleth the Scallops of Alexandria in Egypt, but now the most and best be in Spain by Compostella, whether many lecherous men and women resort, to eat Scallops for the kindling of lust and increase of nature, under the name of a Pilgrimage to Saint James his shrine: The whitest are best, and least hot, all of them increase lust, provoke much urine, and nourish strongly. Selsey and Purbeck have gotten them credit for them and for Cockles, above all the Costs of England; they are best being broiled with their own water, vinegar, pepper, and butter, but sodden they are held to be unwholesome   

Phocae.  
Seals flesh is counted as hard of digestion, as it is gross of substance, especially being old; wherefore I leave it to Mariners and Sailors, for whose stomaches it is fittest, and who know the best way how to prepare it   

Triches. Clupeaes.  
Shads have a tender and pleasant flesh, but in some months they are so full of bones, that the danger in eating them lessneth the pleasure; they nourish plentifully, especially the Severn shed, which in my judgement is void of that viscous humour, whereby other shades (no less than Mackerel) enforce sleepiness to the eater. They are best in May, June, and July, for than they are full of flesh and freest of bones.   

Squillae.  
Shrimps are of two sorts; the one crookbacked, the other straitbacked: the first sort is called of Frenchmen Caramots de la sante healthful shrimps; because they recover▪ sick and consumed persons; of all other 
Pli. lib 9▪ c. 51.  they are most nimble, witty, and skipping, and of best juice. Shrimps were of great request amongst the Romans, and brought in as a principal dish in Venus' feasts. The best way of preparing them for healthful persons, is to boil them in sea or salt water, with a little vinegar; but for sick and consumed bodies dress them after this sort: first wash them clean in barley water, then unscale them whilst they are alive, and seeth them in chicken broth; so are they as much (or rather more) restorative as the best crabs and crevisses most highly commended by Physicians. furthermore they are unscaled, to vent the windiness which is in them, being sodden with their scales, whereof lust and disposition to venery might arise, but no better nor sounder nourishment.  
There is a great kind of Shrimps, which are called Prawns in English, and Crangones by Rondeletius, highly prized in hectic fevers and consumptions; but the crook-backt Shrimp far suprasseth them for that purpose, as being of a sweeter taste and more temperate constitution.   

Squatina.  
Skate is skinned like a File, of the same nature with a Thorneback, but pleasanter, more tender, and more available to stir up lechery; it is so near a Thorneback in 
Plin. li. 9 ●. 51.  shape, that they often couple and engender together.   

Lingulacae Soleae.  
Soles or Tongue fishes, are counted the Partridges of the sea, and the fittest meat of all other for sick folks; for they are of a good smell, a pleasant taste, neither of too hard nor too soft a flesh, engendering neither too thick nor too thin blood; of easy concoction, leaving none or few excrements after they be digested. Platina fried them (as we do) with parsley, butter, and verjuce, and sauced them with butter and juce of oranges; but for sick persons they are best sodden in water, butter, and verjuce with a little fault; it is a fish impatient of winter, and therefore then it lurketh in deep holes, but in summer it sporteth itself abroad, and offereth itself to be seen when it is most seasonable.   

Chalcides.  
Sprats need no description, being one of Jack-a-lents principle pages: They smell well being new and fresh, resembling therein the river-smelt; but their flesh is queasy, corruptible, and aguish, especially if they light on a weak stomach; they are worst being smoked or fried, indifferent sodden, and best broiled.   

Chalcides' majores.  
Spurlings are but broad Sprats, taken chiefly upon our Northern coast; which being dressed and pickled as Anchovaes' be in Provence, rather surpass them then come behind them in taste and goodness. Were English men as industrious as I could wish, we should sell them dearer to the French and Italians, than their Anchovaes' are sold to us; for I have seen some prepared by Dr. Turner, which far exceeded theirs: but strange things are ever best liked, according to that saying of Galen, Peregrina, quae ignorant, magis celebrant mortales, quam quod nativum est, quodque esse praeclarum nôrunt. 
come 1. epid. 3▪ cap. 4.  Mortal men (saith he) do more extol foreign things, albeit they know them not; then home▪ bred and familiar things, though they know them to be excellent.   

Apuae infumatae.  
As for Red Sprats and Spurlings, I vonchsafe them not the name of any wholesome nourishment, or rather of no nourishment at all; commending them for nothing but that they are bawds to enforce appetite, and serve well the poor man's turn to quench hunger.   

Asellus aridus  
Stockfish whilst is is unbeaten is called Buckhorne, because it is so tough; when it is beaten upon the stock, it is termed stockfish. Rondelitius calleth the first 
lib. de pisc▪  Merlucium, and Stockfish Moluam, it may be Salpa Plinij, for that is a great fish, and made tender 
Lib. colloq.  by age and beating. Erasmus thinketh it to be called Stockfish, because it nourisheth no more than a dried stock: wherefore howsoever it be sod, butered, fried or baked, and made both toothsomer and delectable by good and chargeable cookery; yet a stone will be a stone, and an ape an ape, howsoever the one be set up for a Saint, and the other apparelled like a Judge.  
The Stillyard Merchants lay it twenty four hours in strong lie, and then as long again in warm waters; afterwards they boil it in abundance of butter, and so serve it in with pepper, and salt, which way (if any way) it is most nourishing, because it is made not only tender, but also more moist and warm: Now let us stay longer upon the Sturgian, esteemed sometime the Monarch of all sea-fish.   

Acipenser.  
Sturgian is thought of Mr. Cogan to be a fish of hard substance, not much better (in his judgement) than Bacon 
cap. 184.  or Brawn, although for the rareness it be esteemed of great Estates; which I will not deny to be true in old and resty Sturgian; but young Sturgian is so far of from being tough or unwholesome, that of all other fish it is and was ever most preferred: Severus and his followers 
Suet. in vita. Sever.  did so esteem it (though Trajan for an in borne hatred could not abide it) that whensoever any great feast was kept, the chief Gentleman of his Court carried up the Sturgian, all gilded over with gold, and attended with minstrelsy and carolling, as though a solemn Pageant or Saint's shrine were to be carried about the City. 
Gal▪ de Euchy & cacochym. cic. 1. Tusculan quaest.  Galen likewise and Tully affirm it to be of a sweet delicate and good nourishment. Cordan compareth it with Veal, but indeed it is far sweeter: Sturgians livers are so exceeding sweet, that at Hamborough they rub them over with the broken gall, lest the stomach should be cloyed with over swetness. The great and full grown Sturgians are better than the less, and the Male than the Female; and they which suck and lie at the mouths of Rivers, are counted sweeter than they which are taken in the main sea; it feeds not (as other fish do) upon flies, worms, fish-spawne or roots, but sucketh like a Lamprey (because it hath no teeth) of such sweet morsels or offal as happily it findeth. One thing is admirable in this fish, that albeit clean contrary to other fishes the scales turn toward the head; yet against the side and stream it swimeth fasteth▪ Physicians forbid all Sturgian (especially the head and fore-rand) to aguish persons and such as be lately recovered of agues; because they are so fat and oily, that their stomaches will convert them into choler. At Dansk and Hamborough (whence we have the best) sometimes they are roasted, being sticked full of cloves; but then the belly only is toothsome, which eateth like Veal, or rather better, if such sauce be made unto it as we use to roasted Venison. Otherwhiles they are broiled and basted with oil and vinegar, having been first a little corned with salt; but if Sturgian be well sod, and then kept in convenient pickle, of all other preparations it is the chiefest, being eaten with vinegar and sweet fennel.  
They are first sod in two parts of water, one of white wine, and one of white wine vinegar, with sufficient salt, verveine and dill, as long as one would seethe a leg of Veal; then being cold, they are divided into jouls and rands, and put up into barrels or kegs, with store of Rhenish wine, wine▪ vinegar, and seawater; wherein having lain half a year, they become a light, toothsome and singular good meat, to an indifferent and temperate stomach. As for Cavialie, or their eggs being powdered, let Turks, Grecians, Venetians, and Spaniards, celebrate them never so much, yet the Italian Proverb will ever be true.  

Chi mangia di Caviale,  
Mangia moschi merdi & salae.  
He that eateth of Cavialies'▪  
Eateth fault, dung, and flies.   
I commend the flesh of Sturgian chiefly to hot and distasted stomaches, to young men, and especially in Summer; at which time (eaten with gilly-flour vinegar) it slaketh thirst, sharpeneth appetite, settleth the stomach, delayeth heat, and giveth both a temperate and a sound nourishment.   

Xiphij.  
Sword-fish are much whiter and pleasanter in taste than Tunny; but as hard of digestion, and therefore unworthy any longer discourse.   

Raja.  
Thornback, which Charles Chester merrily and not unfitly calleth Neptune's beard, was extolled by Antiphanes in Athenaeus history for a dainty fish; indeed it is of a pleasant taste, but of a stronger smell than Skate, over-moist to nourish much, but not so much as to hinder lust, which it mightily increaseth. Albertus thinks it as hard to be concocted as any beef; whose judgement I suspect, 
Lib. de morb. in't.  sith Hypocrates permits it in long Consumptions: Assuredly if not the flesh, yet the liver is marvellous sweet and of great nourishment, which the very taste and consistence thereof will sufficiently demonstrate. Thorneback is good sodden, especially the liver of it, 
Athen. l. 8. c. 5.  though Dorion the Musician said, That a sodden Thornback is like a piece of sodden Cloth; but the flesh is best broiled after it hath been sodden▪ to consume the watrishness.   

Thynni.  
Tunies are best when they are leanest; namely, towards the Fall and the dead of Winter. When they are at the best, their flesh is unsavoury enough, cloying an indifferent stomach, and engendering most gross and superfluous moistures. As Porpesses must be baked while they are new, so Tunny is never good till it have been long powdered with salt, vinegar, coriander, and hot spices. No Tunny lives passed two years, waxing so fat that their bellies break: at which time more gain is made of their fat, by making train-oil for Clothiers, then good by their flesh; which is only good, (if good at all) for Spanish and Italian Mariners.   

Rhombi.  
Turbots, which some call the Sea-Pheasant, were in old time counted so good and delicate, that this Proverb grew upon them, Nihil ad Rhombum; that is to say, What is all this in comparison of a Turbutt. Verily, whilst they be young, (at which time they are called Butts) their flesh is moist, tender, white, and pleasant; afterwards they are harder to be digested, though more crumbling to feel to: and as their prickles wax longer, so their flesh waxeth tougher. They are best being sodden as you seeth Thornback; or rather as you seeth a grown Plaise.   

Balaenae.  
Whale's flesh is the hardest of all other, and unusual to be eaten of our Countrymen, no not when they are very young and tenderest; yet the livers of Whales, Sturgians, and Dolphins smell like violets, taste most pleasantly being salted, and give competent nourishment as Cardan writeth.   

Onisci. Albulae. Molliculae.  
Whiting had never stayed so long in the Court of England (where they are never wanting upon a fish day) unless they had done some notable service, and still deserved their entertainment; the best Whiting are taken in Tweed, called Merlings, of like shape and virtue with ours, but far bigger; all Physicians allow them for a light, wholesome and good meat, not denying them to sick persons, and highly commending them to such as be in health; they are good sodden with salt and time, and their livers are very restorative, yea more than of other fishes: they are also good broiled, and dried after the manner of Stockfish into little Buckhorne; but then they are fitter (as Stockfish is) to dry up moistures in a rheumatic stomach, then to nourish the body.   

Colybdaenae.  
Yards or shamefish (so called because they resemble 
De comp. med. sec. loc.  the yard of a man) are by Galens judgement as agreeable to weak stomaches, as Crabs, Shrimps, & Crevisses. Gesner in his book of fishes, saith that the French men call this 
li. de dif. anim.  fish the Asses-prick, and Dr Wotton termeth it grossly the Pintle fish. How shameful a name so ever it beareth, it needs not be ashamed of his virtues; for it nourisheth much, is light of concoction, and increaseth nature.  
Yellow heads or Giltpoles are before spoken of, next before Gurnards'. And thus much of Sea fish; now fresh water fish challenge their due remembrance, of which we will treat in the next Chapter.    

CHAP. XIX.  
Of Fresh water Fish.  

Apium.  
ALderlings are a kind of fish betwixt a Trout and a Grailing, scaled (as the Trout is not) but not so great scaled as the Grailing is; It lieth ever in a deep water, under some old and great alder, his flesh being sod smelleth like to wild parsley, whereupon I guess it had his Latin name, and is of indifferent good nourishment, and provoketh urine.   

Barbellio.  
Barbels are counted nothing but bearded-mullets; It is most likely that this is the fish dedicated to Diana the Goddess of chastity; for it is a very cold, moist and gelid fish, hurting the sinews, quenching lust, and greatly 
Plin. l. 32. ca 7.  troubling both head and belly, if it be usually and much 
Terpsides lib. de Vener.  eaten of; some eat it hot after it is sodden in wine vinegar, time, and savoury (which is a good way to correct it) others eat it cold laid in jelly, which only agreeth with hot and aguish stomaches in Summer time; assuredly the eggs or spawn of Barbels is very sharp, griping and corrosive, driving many into bloody fluxes that have eaten them fasting.   

Abramides.  
Bream seem no other than flat Carp; yet whiter of flesh, and finer nourishment. There is a kind of Bream called Scarus ruminas, which we call a Cudbream, because his lips are ever wagging like a Cow chawing the cud: this of all other is the lightest, sweetest, and best fish of the River, fitter for weak and sick persons than such as be in health, because it is so fine.   

A very good way how to dress most part of scaled fishes.  
Prepare it after this sort, set on a good quantity of white strong vinegar▪ and stale Ale, with a curtsy of salt, a little mints, origanum, parsley and rosemary; and when your liquor boileth fast upon the fire, stop the mouth of your Bream with a nutmeg thrust down into his throat, and cast him in skipping into the liquor keeping him down till he be thorough dead and perfectly sodden: dress Pikes, Roches, Carp, Grailing, Mullets, and all great fish of the River in the like sort; for it will make them to eat pleasant, crisp, brittle, and firm, not waterish and flaggy, as most fish do, because we know not how to use and order them.   

Alburni.  
Bleyes or Bleaks are soft fleshed, but never fat; fitter to feed Pikes then to nourish men; in the heat of Summer they are troubled with a worm in their stomach, which makes them so mad and frantic, that rowing upon the Thames you shall have three or four in an evening leap into your boat: A waterman once opened one, and found a little worm in it, not unlike to them which grow in oxens skins (wherewith they are often enraged) but far less; they are counted a tender, but never any wholesome meat; because they are so subject to frenzy and giddiness.   

Cyprini. Carpiones.  
Carp are of a sweet taste, and much good nourishment, in which respects they were dedicated to Venus, discommended for nothing, but that they will not last long; wherefore they are forthwith to be dressed, because 
Pisan. de. esc. & potul.  (through lightness of their substance) they will soon corrupt. The Portugals suppose that Carp feed upon gold, because nothing almost is found in their bellies, but a yellow glistering sand; which opinion is also increased, in that they lie only at the bottom of waters: The River Carp is most wholesome; if the ground of that River be gravel or clean sand; otherwise take them out of gravelly ponds fed with springs, and fatted with convenient meat; where they will not only increase mightily in number and bigness, but also get a very pleasant taste and a wholesome nature: The middle sised Carp is ever best, agreeing with all times, ages and complexions. The Tongue is the most nourishing part of all, but the spawn is heavy and unwholesome howsoever it be dressed. The head of a Carp, the tail of a Pike, and the Belly of a Bream are most esteemed, for their tenderness, shortness, and well relishing. Some bake a Carp with spice, fruit, and butter; but in my judgement being sodden like a Bream, it is of as good a taste and better nourishment. A red Cavialie is made of their spawn in Italy; much eaten and desired of the jews, for that they dare not eat of the Cavialie of Sturgians, Seals, and Tunny, because they are only to feed upon scaled fish, and such as carry fins: above all things see that your Carp stink not of mud nor fenny filth; for they cannot then be wholesome for man's body.   

Locustellae. Astaci. Carabi.  
Crevisses and Shrimps were appointed by God saith Dorion (as Athenaeus writeth) for queasy stomaches, and give also a kind of exercise for such as be weak: for head and breast must first be divided from their bodies; then each of them must be does scaled, and clean picked with much piddling; then the long gut lying along the back of the Crevisse is to be voided. Lastly, the small claws are to be broken, wherein lieth part of the best meat. Crevisses feed upon fish, water-herbs, and sweet clay; but most gladly upon the livers of young beasts; before we are to use them, it were good to diet them in a cistern with crumbs of white bread for three or four days together, so will they be cleans`d of all impurities, and give a more strong and fine nourishment. They should be sodden in the water whence they were taken with a little salt; and never kept above a day after, for they will soon smell and putrify: we do foolishly to eat them last, being a fine temperate and nourishing meat. They are best from the Spring until Autumn, and at the full of the Moon they are most commendable. The Females likewise are better than the Males, which a wise man will soon discern: for consumed persons they are first to be washed in barley water, and then to be sodden in milk (being first discaled) till they be tender; according as before I wrote of Shrimps.   

Leucisci.  
Daces, or Darts, or Dares be of a sweet taste, a soft flesh and good nourishment, either sod or broiled; or pickled like Anchovaes' after the Italian manner.   

Anguillae.  
Eels have so sweet a flesh, that they and Lampreyes were dedicated to that filthy Goddess Gula or gluttony; yet withal it is so unwholesome, that some Zoilus or 
Li. de rect. rat.  Momus would have accused nature, for putting so sweet a taste into so dangerous a meat: for Eels (as Hypocrates writeth) live most willingly in muddy places: and in his Epidemiques he rehearseth many mischiefs to have happened to divers through eating of Eels; they give much nourishment, but very corruptible: they loosen the belly, but bring fluxes, they open the wind-pipes, but stop the liver; they clear the voice, but infect the lungs; they increase seed, but yet no good seed: finally they bring agues, hurt the stomach and kidneys, engender gravel, cause the strangury, sharpen the gout, and fill us full of many diseases; they are worst in Summer, but never wholesome: the elder ones are least hurtful and if any be harmless it is the silver-bellied and the sandy Eel. Arnoldus de villa nova, saith that no Eel is 
Com. in Sch. sal  free from a venomous malignity and a kind of gluish suffocating juice. But Jovius reporteth that some 
Jou. in desc. Hetrur.  Eels are engendered in a little River by Cremona, less a great deal, than our little griggs, hurtful in no disease, but of a pure wholesome and good nourishment; which I will believe because so grave a Chronicler reporteth it: otherwise I should think ill with Hypocrates of all Eels, even of those little ones as well as the Eels in Ganges, which are thirty foot long, as Pliny writeth: Verily 
lib. 9▪ cap. 3.  when Eels only sink to the bottom, and all other fishes float after they are dead, it cannot but argue them to be of a muddy nature, little participating of that a●ereal substance which moveth and lighteneth other fishes. Again sith like an Owl it never comes abroad to feed but in the night time; it argueth a melancholic disposition in itself, and a likelihood to beget the like in us. Great Eels are best roasted and broiled, because their malign humour lieth more next under the skin then in their flesh, which is corrected or evapourated by the fire. Next of all they are best powdered and soused, and baked with butter, salt, and pepper; but worst being sodden in water, ale, and yeast, as commonly they are; for the yeast addeth one maglinnity to another, and doth more hurt than I can express to the stomach, liver, and blood.   

Rhombi fluviatiles.  
Flounder if they be thick and well grown are a most wholesome and light meat, being sod with water and verjuice, or fried with vinegar and butter; but the little Flounder called Dabs' as they are little esteemed of, so their waterish and flaggy flesh doth justly deserve it.   

Thymi.  
Grailing called both of Greeks and Latins Thymi, because their flesh smelleth like thime when they be in season, are a white, firm, and yet a tender meat, tasting no worse than it smells, and nourishing plentifully. Seeth it in such sort, as was described in our Treatise before of dressing Bream, and you will find few fishes comparable unto it; of all scaled fishes they only want a gall, which perhaps is the cause of their greater excellency.   

Gobiones.  
Gudgeons are of two sorts, one whiter and very little, the other bigger and blackish; both are as wholesome as a Perch; but if any be found yellowish, they are dry, 
3 de alim. fac.  lean and unseasonable. Galen commendeth their flesh exceedingly, not only because it is short and pleasant in taste, being fat and friable; but also for that it is soon concocted, nourisheth much, and increaseth good blood. They are best which lie about rocky and gravelly places, for fenny and lake Gudgeons be not wholesome.   

Paganelli.  
Rondeletius in his book of fishes, mentioneth two Sea Gudgeons called Paganelli of a far greater length and bigness than ours are of, which our Western fishermen call by the name of Sea-cobs: they sometimes come up the River of uske, where they are taken and brought to Exeter, and accounted (as they are indeed) a most sound, light, wholesome, and nourishing meat.   

Capitones.  
Gulls, Guffs, Pulches, Chevins, and Miller's thombs are a kind of joltheaded Gudgeons, very sweet, tender, and wholesome, especially when they be with spawn; for their eggs are many and fat, giving good nourishment; and though their flesh be hard in Albertus' judgement, yet it never putrifieth, and is well digested.   

Funduli.  
Groundlings are also a kind of Gudgeons never lying from the ground, freckled as it were on each side with seven or eight spots; they are seasonable in March, April, and May: the best lie lowest, and feed finest, sucking upon gravel; but they which lie near to great Cities, feed upon filth and delight in the dead carcases of men and beasts, therefore called of the Germans Leijtessers.  
All sorts of Gudgeons be wholesome either sod or fried, agreeing with all constitutions of body, sicknesses and ages.   

Pungitij. Spinachiae.  
Hackles or Sticklebacks are supposed to come of the seed of fishes spilt or miscarrying in the water; some think they engender of their own accord, from mud or rain putrified in ponds: howsoever it is they are nought and unwholesome, sufficient to quench poor men's hunger, but not to nourish either rich or poor.  
jacks or young Pickerels shall be described hereafter, when we speak of the nature of Pikes.  
Kobs or Sea-gudgins (taken yet in fresh water) are before spoken of in the discourse of Gudgeons.   

Lampretae. Muraenae.  
Lampreys and Lamprons, differ in bigness only and in goodness; they are both a very sweet and nourishing meat, increasing much lust through superfluous nourishment; were they as wholesome as sweet, I would not much discommend Lucius Mutaena and the Nobles of England for so much coveting after them: but how ill they are even for strong stomaches, and how easily a man may surfeit on them; not only the death of King Henry the first, but also of many brave men and 
Poly. Virgil. lib. 11. hist.  Captains may sufficiently demonstrate. Pliny avoucheth that they engender with the land Snake: but sith they engender and have eggs at all times of the year, 
Lib 9 cap. 2●. Plin. l. 32 ca 2.  I see no reason for it. Aristotle saith, that another long fish like a Lamprey called Myrus is the Sire; which Licinius Macer oppugneth, affirming constantly that he hath found Lampreys upon the land engendering with Serpents, and that Fishermen counterfeiting the Serpent's hiss, can call them out of the water and take them at pleasure. They are best (if ever good) in March and April; for then are they so fat, that they have in a manner no back bone at all: towards Summer they wax harder, and then have they a manifest bone, but their flesh is consumed: Seeth or bake them thoroughly, for otherwise they are of hard and very dangerous digestion. Old men, gouty men, and aguish persons, and whosoever is troubled in the sinews or sinewy parts, should shun the eating of them no less, then as if they were Serpents indeed. The Italians dress them after this sort; first 
Plin. l. 32. ca 2.  they beat them on the tail with a wand (where their life is thought to lie) till they be almost dead, than they gag their mouth with a whole Nutmeg, and stop every oilet-hole with a clove, afterwards they cast them into oil and malmsie boiling together, casting in after them some crumbs of bread, a few almonds blanched and minced; whereby their malignity is corrected and their flesh bettered.  
Cajus Hercius was the first that ever hemmed them in ponds, where they multiplied and prospered in such sort, that at Caesar the Dictator's triumphal suppers, he gave him six thousand Lampreys for each supper; he fed them 
Plin. l. 9 ca 55  with the liver, and blood of beasts: but Vidius Pollio (a Roman Knight, and one of Augustus' minions) fed his Lampreys with his slaves carcases; not because beasts 
Plin. l. 9 c. 23▪  were not sufficient to feed them, but that he took a pleasure to see a thousand Lampreys sucking altogether like horseleeches upon one man.  
Concerning our English preparation of them, a certain friend of mine gave me this Receipt of bakeing and dressing Lampreys; namely first to powder them (after parboiling) with salt, time, origanum, then either to broil them as Spitchcocks, or to bake them with wine▪ pepper, nutmegs, mace, cloves, ginger and good store of butter. The little ones called Lamprons are best broiled, but the great ones called Lampreys are best baked. Of all our English Lampreys, the Severn-dweller is most worthily commended, for it is whiter, purer, sweeter, and fatter, and of less malignity than any other.   

Lochae.  
Loches, meat (as the Greek word importeth) for women in childbed, are very light and of excellent nourishment; they have a flesh like liver, and a red spleen, which are most delicate in taste, and as wholesome in operation.   

Apuae Cobitae, Gesneri. Aliniatae Caij. Phoxini Bellonij.  
Minoes, so called either for their littleness, or (as Dr. Cajus imagined) because their fins be of so lively a red, as if they were died with the true Cinnabre-lake called Minium: They are less than Loches, feeding upon nothing, but licking one another. Gesner thinks them to engender of the waste seed of Gudgeons; others that they engender of themselves out of unknown matter; yet certain it is that they are ever full of spawn, which should argue a natural copulation of them with some littlefish or other: they are a most delicate and light meat (their gall being warily voided without breaking) either fried or sodden.   

Mulli.  
Mullets of the River be of like goodness with the Sea-Mullets, 
Athen. l. 1. c 3.  though not fully of so fine and pure substance. Philoxenus the Poet, supping at the lower mess in Dionysius Court; took suddenly a little lean Mullet out of the dish▪ and set his ear to the mouth of it; whereat Dionysius laughing, and ask him what news? marry (quoth he) he tells me of some strange news in the River, whereof none (as he saith) can more fully inform me then yonder great Mullet in the upper dish: so for his pleasant jest he got the greater; and withal gives us to note, that unless a Mullet be large and fat, it is but a frivolous dish, making a great show on the Table, but little nourishing; how they are best to be dressed, is already specified when I wrote of Bream.   

Vetulae  
Olaffes, or rather Old wives (because of their mumping and sour countenance) are as dainty and wholesome of substance, as they are large in body; it was my chance to buy one about Putny, as I came from Mr. Secretary Walsingham his house about ten years since: which I caused to be boiled with salt, wine, and vinegar; and a little thime; and I protest that I never did eat a more white firm, dainty and wholesome fish.   

Percae.  
Perches are a most wholesome fish, firm, tender, white, and nourishing. Ausonius calleth them delicias mensae the delight of feasts, preferring them before Pikes, Roches, Mullets, and all other fish, Eobanus Hessus in his poetical Dietary, termeth them the River-partridges. Diocles 
Hippoc. 2. de rat. vict. Gal. 3. de al. fa.  the Physician writ a just volumn in the praise of Perches, and Hypocrates and Galen most highly extol them. They are ever in season, save in March and April, when they spawn. As the oldest and greatest Eel is ever best, so chose the middle Perch and Pike is ever most wholesome. Seeth them in wine-vinegar, water, and salt; and then either▪ eat them hot, or cover them in wine-vinegar to be eaten cold: for so they both cool a distempered feverous stomach, and give also much nourishment to a weak body.   

Lupi.  
Pikes or River-wolves are greatly commended by Gesner and divers learned Authors for a wholesome meat, permitted, yea enjoined to sick persons and women in child bed; yet verily to speak like a Lawyer, I cannot perceive quo warranto; for if fenney or muddy-rivered fishes be unwholesome, the Pike is not so good as Authors make him, living most naturally and willingly in such places where he may fat himself with frogs and filth. furthermore when a Pike is big and full grown, is not his flesh rather to be counted hard, then firm; indeed I will not deny but a Pike of a middle size, fed in gravelly ponds with fresh livers of beasts, sodden crisp in wine-vinegar and sweet-herbs, is of no bad nourishment for any man, but fittest for hot choleric stomaches and young persons. Macrobius writeth, that the best Pike is 
3. sat. cap. 16.  taken in a clear River betwixt two bridges; but I never saw them fat in any clear River, and therefore I suspect their goodness.  
Certain it is that old great Pikes are very hard, tough, and ill to digest: young ones (called Jacks) are chose to waterish and moist. Choose therefore one of a middle growth▪ for it is most likely to nourish us best. The Germans having split them along the back, thrust their tails into their mouths, and then fry them a little with sweet butter, than they take them out of the frying pan, and boil them (as long as one would seethe an egg) with wine, water, vinegar, and salt, galloping on the fire, and last of all having sprinkled it over with the powder of cloves, cinnamon and ginger, they serve it to the Table.   

Rutili.  
Roches, or Roch fishes (called so of Saint Roch that Legendary Aesculapius and giver of health) are esteemed and thought uncapable of any disease, according to the old Proverb, As sound as a Roch. Hence have men collected, that the flesh of them is light, sound, and wholesome; which verily is not to be denied, being sodden like a Bream: they are full of bones, which maketh them the less regarded, though wisemen know well enough, that roses are roses, albeit their tree be dangerous and full of thorns.   

Cernuae Aspredines.  
Ruffs or Ruggels are not much unlike to Perches, for the goodness of their flesh, though their skin be rougher: the best live in sandy places, where they wax exceeding fat and sweet; dress them as you do perches: some take them for the Base; and verily by Gesners description they disagree as much as nothing.   

Salmones.  
Salmon are of a fatty, tender, short, and sweet flesh, quickly filling the stomach and soon glutting. Gesner commendeth them that go farthest up into fresh Rivers, accounting them worst which are taken nearest the Sea; which I find to be true in the difference betwixt the Salmon of upper Severn (betwixt Shrewsbury and Beaudly) and the Salmon taken betwixt Gloucester and Bristol. Nevertheless if they go too high up the River, they wax leaner for want of sufficient nourishment, as manifestly appeareth (which I myself have seen) in the Salmon of the Rhine taken at Ringfielden beyond Basel, and at Oppenheim above the City of Ments. Salmon come in and go out with the Buck; for towards Winter they wax kipper, full of kernels under their throat like a measeld hogg, and lose both their redness of flesh, and also the pleasure of taste which else it giveth: they are to be sodden wholly in wine, or wholly in water; for if they be sodden in both, they prove tough and unpleasant: it is best to seethe them in wine vinegar and salt, or else parboil them only in water, being cut into certain pieces, and having sticked those pieces full of cloves, broil them upon a gridiron, and baste them with butter, and serve them in with sauce made of vinegar, cinnamon and sugar. Some have pickled Salmon as Sturgian is used, and find it to be as dainty, and no less wholesome; but salt Salmon loseth a double goodness, the one of a good taste, the other of a good nourishment. Hot Salmon is counted unwholesome in England, and suspected as a leprous meat, without all reason; for if it be sodden in wine, and afterwards well spiced, there is no danger of any such accident.  
As for Salmon peals (which indeed are nothing but Sea▪ Trout) howsoever they be highly commended of the Western and Welsh people; yet are they never enough commended, being a more light, wholesome, and well tasted meat then the Salmon itself.   

Salmunculi.  
Shuins, seem unto me akind of Salmon, whereof plenty is taken in the River running by Cardiff castle: but it surpasseth the Salmon as much in goodness, as it is surpassed by him in length and greatness; boil it in wine vinegar salt, and sweet herbs, and you shall find it a delicate and wholesome fish.   

Violaceae. Epelani Rondeletij.  
Smellts are so called, because they smell so sweet; yea if you draw them, and then dry them in a shadowy place, (being seasonably taken) they still retain a smell as it were of violets. Their flesh is of the finest, lightest, softest, and best juce of all other fish; their excellency is in winter, and whensoever they are full of spawn. Western smelts have the greatest commendation for their greatness and goodness. Void the gall cleanly, and then use the livers, guts, bellies, and fat for great restoratives. The best are taken by Kew and Brainford within eight miles of London, and at Westchester. Seeth them in hot boiling water and salt, and take them out as soon as they are sodden; for lying long in the water they will wax flaggy: their sauce is butter and verjuce mingled with a little gross pepper; but if you fry them in butter, eat them with the juice of civil-orenges; for that is their best sauce.   

Truttae.  
Trout are so great in Northumberland, that they seem thicker than Salmon, and are therefore called Bull-trouts; there are especially two sorts of them, Red-trouts resembling little freshwater Salmon, and therefore termed Salmon-trouts; and Gray-trouts or Skurffs, which keep not in the channel of Bournes or Rivers, but lurk like the Alderlings under the roots of great Alders; they are both a very pleasant and good meat for sound persons: but they are foully mistaken▪ which prefer them in agues before Perches, (whose flesh is tender, friable, light, of good juice, and speedy concoction) when they are in no one thing comparable unto them: they are best being sodden like a Bream and eaten hot, for being eaten cold they lose much of their grace and more of their goodness.   

Tincae.  
Tenches are naturally such friends to Pikes, that pity it is they should be separated; yet sith I have followed the order of the Alphabet, I could not but divide them in name though they agree in nature. Old writers hardly vouchsafe to mention them, because they were only esteemed as beggar's meat; the very feeling and smell of them, show, that a Tench is but a muddy and slimy fish. Albertus' living 1252 years after Christ, was the first that ever wrote of the nature of the Tench. His flesh is stopping, slimy, viscous, and very unwholesome; and (as Alexander Benedictus writeth) of a most unclean and damnable nourishment. Antonius Gazius saith, that a fried Tench is a secret poison: and I remember that Dr. Cajus (whose learning I reverence) was wont to call Tenches good plasters, but bad nourishers. For indeed being outwardly laid to the soles of one's feet, they oftentimes draw away the ague; but inwardly taken they engender palsies, stop the lungs, putrify in the stomach, and bring a man that much eats them to infinite diseases; they are very hard of digestion, burdensome to the stomach, increasing slimy nourishment, and breeding palsies, and appoplexies in the head: From May to November they are very dangerous; afterwards, hot choleric and labouring men may be refreshed by them, but none else: they are worst being fried, best being kept in jelly, made strong of wine and spices.   

Umbrae.  
Umbers have a dry and whitish flesh, like the flesh of gray-trouts, being of the like substance, quality and goodness, and needing no other preparation. The belly of it is preferred before the other parts, and is wholesomest in the Dog▪ days. Pisanellus saith that it is called Umbra in Latin, because it swimmeth in the river like a 
lib. de esc▪ & potul.  shadow; and he commendeth it exceedingly for young and hot stomaches, as that also it is soon concocted and increaseth seed.    

CHAP. XX.  
Of such living Creatures and Meats, as be neither Flesh nor Fish, and yet give good nourishment to the body.  

Cochelae terrestres.  
SNails are little esteemed of us in England, but in Barbary, Spain, and Italy they are eaten as a most dainty, wholesome, nourishing, and restoring meat. Let us beware when, and in what sort, we use them; for 
Plin. l. 8. c. 39  they are naught whilst they feed, but towards winter having scoured themselves from all excrements, and batled themselves fat with sleep, then are they wholesomest: also if they feed in woods or in gardens full of Physick-hearbs, they are strong both of smell and taste and dangerous to eat of. They desire of all other herbs to feed of deffadills and asphodils; but then they are not so good, as those that feed upon other herbs and fruits, but especially upon Dew-berries. In Cales and Spain they feed chiefly upon orange flowers, which makes them very pleasant in eating. In the Islands of 
Plin. loc. citato  Majorca and Minorca, they never come out of their caves, but live by sucking one another's shell, hanging together like a gluster of grapes; which no doubt are of a purer substance than ours, that suck and feed upon all herbs. Fulvius Hilpinus not long before the civil 
Plin. li. 9 c. 55. Ex. M Varrone  war betwixt Caesar and Pompey, made in his garden several snail-parks (as I may call them) keeping every kind by themselves; there might one find the white snails of Reate, the grey and great snails of Illyricum; the fruitful snails of Africa, and the Solitan snails, most famous and excellent of all others: which he suffered not to feed upon what they listed, but made certain pap with sweet wine, honey, and flour, whereby they were fed so fat, and became so wholesome, sweet, and delicate, that they were highly esteemed, being sold every dishfull for Fourscore Quadrants. But sith no man is in hope to gain so much by that Occupation, they which must needs use them, may choose them in this sort: First, let them choose them of middle size, feeding all Summer time in hilly places upon wholesome Herbs. Secondly, let them not eat them till September be past, for by that time they are thoroughly purged of all Excrements. Also, they are unfit for weak, cold and moist Complexions, because they themselves are cold in the first degree, and moist in the second. They are best 
Pisanel. de esc. & potul.  for hot stomaches, choleric constitutions, thirsty distemperatures, watchful brains, and men troubled with Ulcers of the lungs, and free from all stops and inflammations 
Plin. l. 30. c. 6.  of the Kidneys. Pliny wills them to be first parboiled in warm Water with sweet Herbs, and then to be broiled upon the Coals, and to be eaten ever in an odd number: but if you dress them as Apicius appoints Periwinkles to be dressed (which I before described in the Treatise of Periwinkles) they will prove a 
Supra cap. 18.  light, wholesome and good nourishment.   

Testudines.  
Tortisses' are likewise no usual Meat amongst us: yet because I see no reason but that Riot may bring them in, and make them as familiar unto us as Turkeys are, I will write something of their choice, use, hurtfulness, correction and degrees of Temperature. Choose ever the greatest, fullest of Eggs, liveliest eyed, and fatted at home with the best meat. Their flesh nourishes plentifully, and recovers men out of Consumptions. Yet is it slowly digested of weak stomaches, engendering thick and phlegmatic blood, and making the eaters sleepy and slothful. Wherefore seeth him thoroughly in many Waters with sweet Herbs and hot Spices; especially for that it is no less cold than Snails, and fully as moist, agreeing only at such times of the year, and for such kind of persons as Snails be thought convenient for.   

Ramae.  
Frogs are of hard concoction, troublesome to the stomach, breeding much phlegm, and giving no sound yea rather a bad juice: Yet Water frogs are best, of the bigger sort, and both bred and taken in a dry season. 
Plin. l▪ 8. c. 29.  Their hinder parts and Livers (which be two in each) are the best to be eaten; and being throughly sodd in oil, salt-water and Vinegar, and eaten with sauce made of sweet Herbs, Onions and Scallions, they are no bad meat for choleric young men, though for old and phlegmatic persons they be wholly unprofitable. They are moist in the first degree, and cold in the second, and therefore to be corrected with hot and drying simples.   

Mel:  

Athen l. 2. c. 3.  Honey and Bread was a great Meat with Pythagoras and his Scholars, and counted a sufficient food for a temperate life. For Bread strengthens the body, and Honey both nourishes much, and also cleanseth away superfluities, 
Plin. lib. 22. cap. 24.  Pollio Romulus being asked by Augustus the Emperor, how he lived so long! By nourishing (saith he) 
Cael. lib. 28. cap. 27. A. L.  my inwards with Honey, and my outward parts with oil. The like answer likewise made Democritus, being demanded the like question. Furthermore, it is so general a Meat through all Russia, that the Children eat it on their bread every morning, as ours do Butter to their breakfast: with whom, and with Old men, it agreeth exceeding well, cleansing their breasts, opening their pipes, warming their stomaches, resisting putrefaction, procuring solubleness and urine, and engendering sweet and commendable blood: but young men (whose moisture is less than children's through sharpness of heat, and whose stomaches are hotter than old men's) by much eating of honey inflame their blood, increase choler, bloody fluxes, wind, and obstructions, together with a continual loathing of meat and a disposition to vomit: hony-cakes were wont to be a great dish in old times at the end of banquets, as gingerbread is with us; which custom Macrobius and Gellius have justly reproved; 
Macr. 2. sat. c. 8. Gel. l. 13. c. 11.  because sweet things being last eaten, open the mouth of the stomach, which after meat should be closed, and as it were sealed up to help concoction: Wherefore Pisanellus 
de esc. & potul.  doth very well, in prescribing us to eat sugar-rosat or some sour fruits after honey, to prevent the engendering of choler in the stomach, and to help the same whilst it concocteth. Raw honey is never good, therefore 
What honey is best  clarify it throughly at the fire; and choose the whitest▪ purest, clearest, most glistering and thickest, for they are notes of the best honey: also let it be honey that ran and was never pressed out of the combs, and of young Bees rather than old, feeding upon thime, rosemary, flowers, and such sweet and wholesome herbs. Then may you boldly give it as meat to young children, to cold and moist complexions, and to rheumatic old men, especially in Northern Countries, and cold climates, and in the winter season.    

CHAP. XXI.  
Of Fruit and the differences thereof.  
NOw we are come to the last course, which in ancient and more healthful ages was the first and only, whilst men's hands were neither polluted with the blood of Beasts, nor smelled of the most unwholesome sent of fish. This kind of meat is commended (like the Hebrew tongue) for three principal reasons; antiquity, purity, and sufficiency; for it was more ancient than either flesh or fish by two thousand years; it is so pure of itself that it never defiles the hand nor needeth any great dressing: and that it is sufficient to maintain us long in life, not only the history of the first twelve patriarchs, but also whole nations living at this day in India, Africa, Asia, and some parts of Europe do sufficiently declare, feeding wholly or principally of fruit; whereof I find three chief or especial kinds, namely Orchard-fruit growing upon trees: Garden-fruit growing upon shrubs, herbs and roots: and Field-fruit concluded under the name of Graine.   

CHAP. XXII.  
Of all Orchard Fruit.  

Pruna. Armeniaca chrysomela.  
ABricocks are plums dissembled under a peaches coat, good only and commendable for their taste and fragrant 
Plin. l. 15. c. 1●.  smell, their flesh quickly corrupting and degenerating into choler and wheyish excrements, engendering pestilent agues, stopping the liver and spleen, breeding ill juice, and giving either none or very weak nourishment; yet are they medicinable and wholesome for some persons, for they provoke urine, quench thirst: and sirup made of the infusion of dried Abricocks, qualifies the burning heat and rage of fevers: They are least hurtful to the stomach, and most comfortable to the brain and heart, which be sweet kerneld, big and fragrant, growing behind a Kitchin-chimny (as they do at Barn-elms) and so thoroughly ripened by the Sun, that they will easily part from their stone. They are best before meat, and fittest for hot stomaches; but let not women eat many of them and let them also remember to drown them well in Sack or Canary wine. Galen preferreth 
3 de alim. fac.  Abricocks before Peaches, because they are not so soon corrupted: whereas common experience showeth the contrary; for as Abricocks are soon ripe, so of all other stone fruit they soon corrupt in a man's stomach.   

Amigdalae.  
Almonds (into whom fair Phyllis was turned, as Poets imagine) are of two sorts, sweet and bitter. These are fittest for medicine, but the sweet ones for meat. The sweet almonds are sometimes eaten green of women with child to procure appetite; and in Summer of others, because than they are most pleasant: but they nourish most after the fall when they are fully ripe, being blanched into cold water; they fatten the body, give plentiful nourishment, increase flesh and seed, help the brain and eyesight, purge the breast by spitting, clear the voice, cleanse the kidneys, and provoke sleep; eat them not when they are very old and wrinkled, for than they stay long in the stomach and breed headache: if they be eaten with sugar (as they are in march-paens, or in culliss, mortises, rice▪ porridge, or almond milks) they are of greater nourishment and more easy digestion; but then they are to be eaten alone, not in the middle (and much less in the end) of Meals.   

Mala.  
Apples be so divers of form and substance, that it were infinite to describe them all; some consist more of air than water, as your Puffs called mala pulmonea; others more of water then wind, as your Costards and Pome-waters, called Hydrotica: Others being first graffed upon a Mulberry stock wax through red, as our Queen-apples, called by Ruellius, Rubelliana, and Claudiana by Pliny. Roundlings are called mala Sceptiana of Sceptius; and Winter-goldlings, Scandiana Plinij; Pippins mala Petisia; Peare-apples, Melapia; and Pearmains or Peauxans no doubt be those Applana mala, which Appius graffed upon a Quince, smelling sweetly, and tasting a little tart, continuing in his goodness a year or two. To be short, all Apples may be sorted into three kinds, Sweet, Sour, and Unsavoury. Sweet Apples moisten the belly, open the breast, ripen rheums, ease the cough, quench thirst, help spitting, cure melancholy, comfort the heart and head (especially if they be fragrant and odoriferous) and also give a laudable nourishment. Sour Appels stay the belly, hinder spitting straiten the breast, gripe and hurt the stomach, increase phlegm, and weaken memory. Unsavoury Apples are unfit for our eating, appointed rather to fat Hogs and Swine, then to come into our stomaches. Old Apples are best (if they be such as can bear age) because by long lying they lose two ill qualities, Watrishness and Windiness, and have also a more perfect and pleasing taste. As Nuts, Figs, and Mulberries be best towards the lowest boughs, so chose Plums, Apples, and Pears be best from the top of the Tree, and hanging on the sunny side. Sweet Apples are to be eaten at the beginning of meat, but sour and tart Apples at the latter end. All Apples are worst raw, and best baked or preserved. None at all are good sodden besides the Codlin; which afterwards being made into tart stuff, and baked with rose-water and sugar, is no bad meat: their coldnese and watrishness is soon corrected, either in baking, roasting, or preserving with cinnamon, ginger, orenge-pills, aniseed, caraway-seed, sweet fennel-seed, and sweet butter.  

Cael. lib. 27. ca●▪ 17. A. L.  Now whereas the old Proverb (ab ovo ad mala) showeth that Apples were ever the last dish set upon the board, you must understand it of tartish and sour Apples, or else justly (though newly) find fault with an old custom. Philip of Macedonia and Alexander his son (from whom perhaps a curious and skilful Herald may derive our Lancashire men) were called Philomeli Apple-lovers, 
Athen l. 7. c. 1. Cael lib. 13. cap▪ 15▪ A. L.  because they were never without Apples in their pockets; yea all the Macedonians his Countrymen did so love them, that having near Babylon surprised a Fruiterer's hoy, they strove so for it that many were drowned; which fight was therefore called by Historiographers, Melomachia, the Apple-fight; but cruel fluxes surprised the Army upon this, and many died of intolerable gripe.   

Oxyacanthae. Spinae acidae.  
Berberies preserved, are a great refreshing to hot stomaches and aguish persons; and being kept in pickle they serve for salads and the garnishing of meat; but they are of very little nourishment themselves, or rather of none at all, though by a pleasant sharpness they edge an appetite.   

Prunus-Sylvestris regius.  
Bullices likewise (both white, speckled and black) are of the like nature, being stewed, baked, roasted, or preserved; fitter to be eaten last to close up the upper mouth of the stomach, than first to stop the neither mouth, unless it be in fluxes.   

Sorbi.  
Cervises (like to Meddlers) are then truly ripe, when they are rotten; if you would choose the best, choose the biggest, most poulpy, and voidest of stones. They are cold in the first degree, and dry in the third, giving little nourishment; but staying fluxes, preventing drunkenness, strengthening the stomach, and making a sweet breath; their great astringency showeth that they are to be eaten last, for otherwise they will bind the body, burden 
Lib 15. cap. 21  the stomach, and engender very gross humours. Pliny maketh four kind of Cervisses, one as round as an Apple, another bottled like a Pear, the third ovale made like an egg. The Apple-cervise is most sweet, fragrant, and nourishing, the other of a most winy taste; the fourth kind of Cervisse is a very little one, called the Torment-Cerviss allowed for nothing but that it ceaseth the torments of bloody fluxes.  
Cherries were neither brought into Italy nor England till Lucius Lucullus returned from his victory 
Plin. l. 15. c. 25.  against Mithridates; whereof there are chiefly four sorts amongst us.   

juliana.  
julian's which are very red, soft, and poulpy, never good but under the Tree; for they rot in carriage a little way.   

Aproniana.  
Apronians, which are red, round, and harder, and can abide the carriage.   

Duracina.  
Duracines or in French Coeurs, or heart-Cherries, because they are made like a heart, which are the firmest of all other.   

Actiana.  
The blackest of all be called Actians, because they were brought from Actium a promontory of Epire. In England we have also seen white Cherries growing, wherein the artificial choler marred the good nature and taste of them; wherefore I will not commend them for wholesomeness, but show their rareness.  
Concerning their uses, let us remember thus much; that the Coeurs or French Cherries are most cordial, the common and pulpy Cherries most nourishing, the black Cherries kernel is the best meat, but his flesh unwholesome and loathsome to the stomach.  
Furthermore our common Cherries being ripe and eaten from the Tree in a dewy morning, loosen the belly: when chose Coeurs and red sour Cherries bind the same, being of a more dry and astringent faculty.  
All Cherries (saving them which are black) slake thirst, cool moderately, and procure appetite. Sweet and ripe Cherries should be eaten foremost; others are to be eaten last, either scalded or baked, or made into tart stuff, or preserved with sugar, or rather dried after the Germane manner; which they keep all the year long to quench thirst in agues, to cool choler, to stir up appetite, to unfur the tongue and relish the mouth, to stay puking, vomiting, and all kind of fluxes.   

Castaneae nuces.  
Chestnuts are so discommended of Galen in his book of Thin Diet, that they should be little esteemed, had 
lib. 15. c 23.  not latter ages better considered of their nature. Pliny thought (and I allow his reason) that it could not be a vile meat, which nature had hidden with such wonderful and artificial covers or husks. Divus Tiberius having been in Sardinia, or rather (as I take it) at Sardis in Lydia, brought from thence some chestnuts, and set them in Italy; whence no doubt they were derived into France and England. It is questioned by some, whether raw Chestnuts may not engender louse. But the French Chestnut is bigger, tenderer, and far sweeter than ours; whereof there are two kinds, the one of a light and reddish colour fittest to be roasted, the other resembling a dark bay, inclining to a blackish brown (called Coctivae of Pliny) because they are best sodden. Of all Chestnuts choose the biggest, fullest, brownest and roundest, and let them be three months old at the least before you eat them: If you eat too many, they breed head-ache, colics and costiffness, but feed moderately upon them in the midst of meals, and they nourish without offence. They are dry in the second degree, and almost as hot as dry; but seething remits a little of each, as roasting addeth somewhat to either quality. They are best in Winter, agreeing with moist complexions, and such as are not subject to stops of the breast and liver.   

Mala medica & Citria.  
Citrons, were not known in Homer's time to be any meat: only the pills thereof were burnt with Cedar-wood 
Plin. l. 13. ca 1.  in Temples, when they sacrificed to Apollo: as thinking the fume of it a special preservative against the Plague: Neither is the juice of them since commended, but to resist poison, to qualify humours putrified within the body, to make a sweet breath, to cure hot burning 
Plin. l. 23. ca 6.  agues, and to cure the longing of women with child; for which yet the seeds are thought most medicinable. Nevertheless I am sure as ripe Citrons in Spain do nourish Spaniards, so preserved Citrons may no less nourish us, considering that their corrosive quality is altered by sugar, and their coldness made temperate through perboiling.   

Pruna Damascena.  
Damsins, which were first brought from the mount of Damascus in Syria, are a most wholesome Plum of all others, giving moderate nourishment in hot weather, to young choleric and dry stomaches. The most nourishing be fully ripe, sweet, plump, and thin-skinned. Our custom is very bad to eat ripe Plums last, when their sweetness and lightness persuades us to eat them foremost. Ripe Damsins eaten whilst the dew is upon them, are more medicinable than meat; but being eaten at the beginning of Dinner or Supper, they are more meat than medicine, and give an indifferent sustenance to an indifferent stomach, especially when they are preserved. Damsins not fully ripe, had need to be boiled or preserved, to correct their cold and crude nature; but as they are fit for hot stomaches and aguish persons, so none at all are good for them that be old, or cold, or waterish and phlegmatic of constitution.  
The like may be said of Damase-prunes, brought out of Syria, Spain and Italy, which are sweet, nourishing and pleasant being stewed or sodden; when chose the French Prune is harsh and sour, fitter to cool men in agues and to edge distasted stomaches, then to be offered any man in the way of meat.   

Dactili.  
Dates are usually put into stewed broths, minced-pies, and restorative cullises, as though they were of very great and wholesome nourishment. Ceatain it is that they fat much and increase blood, but such blood as easily 
Plin. l. 13. ca 4.  turneth into hot choler. Alexander's Soldiers were killed with new Dates; which taste so pleasantly, that only danger makes a man surcease to eat them. The best Dates grow by Jericho in Jewry, the next by Alexandria in Egypt; but the Dates of Barbary and Spain have long writhled bodies without substance: Choose them which are ripe and not rotten, firm and not wormeaten, sweet and not astringent, and at the least a year old after the gathering; for such are best for a cold Liver, fittest to move the Belly and to help the cough; whereas new Dates bind excessively, stop the liver, stomach, veins, and lungs, gripe the guts, breed headache, hurt the teeth, and make little ulcers to arise in the mouth: yea ripe Dates lighting upon a bad stomach do easily putrify, engendering malign agues, & stuffing the body with crude humours, whereupon great stops increase both of spleen and liver. They are hot in the second degree, and moist in the first, never good when they are eaten alone, or without sugar, which hindereth their speedy corruption.   

Praenestinae, Heracleoticae, Ponticae & Avellanae nuces.  

Plin. lib. 15.  filberts and Haselnuts, coming first out of Pontus, and translated by the Romans into our Country, are found by experience to nourish the brain, to heal old coughs being eaten with honey, and to stay rheums if be toasted. Also being peeled whilst they are green, and laid a while in water, and eaten afterwards with sugar or salt at the end of meat, they give a laudable nourishment, increasing seed, tempering blood and making it of a good consistence. Choose ever the longest, ripest, and thinnest shel`d, fullest of meat, and freest from spot or worm; also eat them whilst they are new, if you purpose to nourish much; for afterwards they wax more oily and less nourishing: they are best towards Winter, and fitter for strong and able stomaches, because they easily overturn weak stomaches and procure headache.   

Ficus Crossi.  
Figs are the sweetest fruit of the bitterest tree in the world; for neither leaf, nor bud, nor bark, nor wood, 
Plut. 5. Symp.  nor body, nor root, nor any part of it is sweet besides the fruit: nay the very ashes of a figtree, is as sharp and bitter as any soot; yet figs themselves are so sweet, 
Plin. l. 12. ca 1▪  that only for love of them the French men first invaded Italy, and inhabited a great part of it many years; yea Moschus Antimolus the Sophister having once tasted 
Alex. l. 3. ca 11:  them, he hated all other meats during his life; and Plato 
Athen. l. 7. ca 1  so affected them, that he was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 ●he Fig lover; nay he loved them so much, that he died of louse, engendered of corrupt blood which the Figs made; also Pompejus Columna Cardinal and Viceroy of Naples, died suddenly in the arms of Austen Nyphus that famous 
Pau▪ Jov▪ invita Colu●.  Philosopher, with eating too many figs.  
Figs are dangerous without wine, but wholesome with it. Wherefore let all men beware of them, as Solomon bids us take heed of too much honey lest our sweet meat bring sour sauce, and pleasure be punished with too late repentance. They are seldom eaten of us green from the tree; and of outlandish figs, let Dioscorides commend his (〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉) yellow figs, Athenaeus his blue Figgs, and Pratensis his Mariscas, or Fig-dates; yet in my judgement the round, short, and thick barreled Figs (having a thin skin, and a firm substance, with few seeds in them) are of all other the best, though not the sweetest, 
Lib. 15. cap. 18.  which I nothing doubt to be Callistruthiae Galeni, and those delicate figs of Livia Pompeia which Pliny writes of.  
The seed of Figs nourisheth no more than a stone, their skin hardly digesteth, only their pulppy substance giveth much, though no very wholesome nor good nourishment. Choose the softest, roundest, newest, soundest, thickest, and ripest; and as you drink wine upon cold and moist fruits, so drink small drink, or suck the sour juice of Oranges, Pomegranards, Lemons, or Citrons after Figs: thus being taken they augment fat, clear the countenance, provoke venery, quench thirst, resist venom, purge the kidneys of gravel, and nourish more than any Tree-fruit whatsoever. But if you would ripen a cold, or cleanse your pipes, or clear your voice, it is best to eat them with ripe Almonds, or to drink them with barley water: old age is most offended by them, and such as have stopped livers, or be of a bad and corrupt complexion.   

Pistacia, or Psittacia.  

Matth. come. in Diosc.  Fisticks, or rather Pisticks (alluding to the Syrian word) are Nuts growing in the knob of the Syrian or Egyptian Turpentine▪ tree, being so much more wholesome, good and nourishing, by how much they are more sweet, odorifreous, full, big and green: They nourish plentifully, open the liver, cleanse the breast, strengthen the stomach and kidneys, stay fluxes and vomitings, fatten the body, stir up lust, and resist poison. They are wholesome both before and after meat, being eaten with old-pippins, or sugar-roset.  
Children and hot complexions must not use them, for they inflame their thin blood, and cause giddiness: but even Galen (who discommends them more than he 
2 de diaet. part.  needed) alloweth them in Winter for cold fleagmatick and weak stomaches. Isaac saith, that they are hot and dry in the second degree, whereof indeed they want very little.   

Uvae.  
Grapes differ two ways especially, in substance and taste. In respect of substance, they are either fleshy, which are fittest for meat, or winy and thinn, which are fittest to drink, being made into wine. In respect of taste, sweet Grapes fatten and nourish most, being of hottest constitution, and speediest concoction; yet they swell the stomach, engender thirst, and loosen the body. Sour and harsh Grapes are cold in operation, hardly digested, of little nourishment, gripping and yet binding the belly, and therefore fitter to be tasted of as sauce, then to be eaten as meat.  
The Germans hang up clusters of ripe Grapes (suffering them not to touch one another) upon lines in a cold Gallery, or rather in their Bedchambers; which being dried nourish much, and yet neither swell the stomach nor cause looseness: in heat of agues one such Grape or two at the most do more refresh the mouth, and restore the taste, than six ounces of conserve of cold Berberies.  
Haselnuts are already written of in our Treatise of Filbirds.   

Mala junia.  
junitings are the first kind of Apples which are soon ripe, coming in and going out with the Month of June; of a little round and light substance, tender pulp, and very fragrant smell; sent at that time to cool choler, slake thirst, and restore spirits decayed with heat of Summer; it giveth sufficient though no great nor strong nourishment, being fitter for young and hot complexions, then them which are weakened with phleagm.   

Gorni.  
Kornils or Corneols are of a very astringent and binding taste, fit to nourish weak stomaches that can keep nothing, or weak guts that void all things. For sound men they are not good, but eaten in small quantity after meat; because they firmly seal up the stomach, and accidentally help concoctition. Tart stuff or Marmalade may be made of them to that purpose, wherein no doubt the excel quinces, Egleutius berries be of the like substance and nature.   

Malum Limonium.  
Lemons approach near unto Citrons: and Limbs are engendered of them both. Their poulp is cold and dry in the third degree; their peel hot and dry in the second, and their seed temperate. If you eat the juice alone, it causeth gripe, leanness and crudities; but if you eat the peel with the pulp (as nature seemeth therefore to have united them) the heat of the one correcteth the rawness of the other, and not only the stomach but also the heart is comforted by them both. They of Naples 
Pisanel. de esc. & potul.  and Genoa slice the best and sourest Lemons and Citrons very thinn, and having cast on salt and rose-water, use them as a general sauce to all flesh and fish; by which preparation an appetite is procured, their wine well tasted, and their kidneys scoured.  
But forasmuch as we live in a colder climate, it is best to take the ripest sort of Lemons, and to steep their slises, peel and all in wine, sugar and cinnamon upon the warm coals, and then to eat them alone, or with our meat. Let old and consumed persons beware of them; for they will spend their spirits with abundance of urine, and also overthrow their natural heat, which is rather to be quickened and restored with wine, then quenched or quelled with so great a cooler.   

Mespila.  

Plin. l. 15. c. 20.  Meddlers were not seen in Italy whilst Cato lived, but now in England there be too many. Concerning the fruit itself, it is never good till it be rotten; wherein the bus-meddlers of our age may also worthily be compared to them: the great ones (called Setania) have most pulp, the little ones less, but more fine and fragrant: these also do more comfort and bind the stomach, though the great ones excel them in plenty of nourishment: either sort is to be eaten last, because they are of an heavy and astringent nature, burdensome to the stomach, and engendering gross humours, if the be eaten first.   

Mora.  
Mulberries being black and fat (which is a sign of their full ripeness) are hot in the first degree, and moist in the second; fittest to be eaten before meat; because they easily pass from out the stomach to the guts, drawing the other meat along with themselves: they please the stomach, procure losness of body and urine, nourish ●ound and clean bodies, though they corrupt in unclean stomaches; also they smoothen the harshness of the 
Pis. de esc. & pot. ex Avicenna Aetio & Isa. aco judaeo.  throat, quench thirst, delay choler, and cause no great, but yet a natural appetite to meat. They should be gathered before Sunrising, and given only (as I said) to clean stomaches and before meat; for they will else corrupt and swell us up, and drive us perhaps into some putrified fever. They are fittest in Summer for young men, and such as abound with blood and choler.  
Unripe Mulberries (which is discerned by their whiteness and redness) may be good to make medicines for ulcered throats and fluxes of the belly, but they deserve not the names of nourishments.  
When Mulberries cannot be gotten, Blackberries or 
● de alim. fac.  Dewberries may supply their room, to which Galen ascribeth the like virtues. This one thing let us note, omitted of all Herbarists of our latter age; that albeit a Mulberry Tree be called in Greek and Latin Morus, that is to say, a fool; yet her wisdom excelleth all other Trees in my judgement, because it never budeth till all sharp weather be clean gone, and then spreadeth out her leaves more in a day, than all other Trees did in thirty before.   

Olivae.  

Laert. in Plut. vit.  Olives (the desired salade of divine Plato) are an usual dish at most men's Tables, though none of them grow in England. Wild Olives are better, than those which are set in City Orchards; which the very Birds do know in Italy, more coveting the wilder sort. We have three sorts of them brought into our Country, Spanish-olives, Italian olives, and Olives of Provence. The first sort is the biggest, but yet the worst, being too yellow, too soft, and too full of oil: the Italian Olive is almost as big, but more firm of flesh, and pleasanter through retaining his natural greenishness. The Province Olives are less then either, something▪ bitterer also and more leather like skinned, yet better for the stomach then the Spanish, though nothing near the Italian or Bononian Olive in flesh, taste, or goodness: There also their pickles is made of water, salt, ind sweet fennel, which giveth them a greater grace, and maketh them less heavy unto weak stomaches.  
All Olives (even the best) are but of slow and little nourishment; serving especially to provoke appetite, to cleanse the stomach of phlegm, to strengthen the guts, and to cure loathing of meat. It were good to take them out of their salt pickle (which inflameth blood) and to lay them a while in vinegar before we eat them, to correct their heat, and make them more agreeable to the stomach. They are best in the midst of meat with a French salad; for being first eaten, they lie heavy in the stomach, and being last eaten, they offend the head with their brackish and salted vapours, which hinder sleep and increase thirst.   

Malum Aurantium.  
Oranges are brought hither of three kinds, some exceeding sweet, others sour, and the third sort unsavoury, or of no relish. The first sort are sweet and temperately hot, of indifferent nourishment, good for stops of the breast, rheums and melancholy. Very sour Oranges are extremely cold, making thin and waterish blood, and gripping the belly; but right Civil-orenges have a pleasant verdure betwixt sweet and sour; whose juice and flesh preserved, cause a good appetite, bridle choler, quench thirst, yet neither cool nor dry in any excess. As for unsavoury Oranges, they neither nourish nor serve to any good use; but lie heavy in the stomach, stirring up wind and breeding obstructions in the belly: being eaten with sugar and cinnamon, civil-orenges give a pretty nourishment to aguish persons, whose stomaches can digest no strong meats; and also their pills preserved do somewhat nourish, especially if they be not spoiled of the white part, which is most nourishing; as the outward rind chose is most medicinable; choose the heaviest, ripest, and best coloured, and those that taste pleasantly betwixt sweet and sour.   

Mala Persica.  
Peaches show manifestly how change of earth and climate may alter natures; For Columella and divers before Pliny's time have recorded, that in Persia (from whence they were brought into Europe) peaches are a deadly poison; but with us the smell of a ripe, tender, and fragrant peach comforteth the heart, and their meat not only causeth appetite, maketh a sweet breath and cooleth choler, but also easily digesteth and giveth good nourishment. I never saw greater store of good peaches then in Suitzerland; where the poor men fat themselves and their hogs with them exceedingly when they are in season. All Peaches are to be quartered, and laid in strong wine before they are eaten. Ripe Peaches according 
2 de alim. sac.  to Galens rule must be eaten in the beginning of meals, because they are a moist and slippery fruit; but hard and unripe Peaches are best at the end of meat (if ever they are good at all) yea though they be candied or preserved; yet Peaches must be sparingly eaten, for many are dangerous, and killed Theognostus that fine Scholar, so much lamented in the Greek Epigrams. Four good morsels, Peaches, Figs, Melons, and Champignois.   

Pyra.  
Pears be of infinite kinds, because men by graffing divers Pears together have made of them infinite mixtures. The Norwich-pear, and St. 

1. Amerinum. Plinij 2. Signinum. 3. Venereum 4. Crustuminum 5. Hordearium 6. Do●obellianum 7. Superbum. 8. Cucurbitinum 9 Ampullaceum   Thomas-Pear are most durable and very good; the Sand-pear is firm and also nourishing; the Lady-pear is too waterish, though beautiful in colour: The Katherin-pear is simply best and best relished: The Musk-pear is very cordial; The Long-tail hath a good verdure; The Puff-pear is full of wind: The Bell-pear is very sappy: The Tanckard-pear is somewhat bitterish and noisome to the stomach. But leaving their infinite differences of shape, colour, and time, let us only write of their differences in taste, which is chiefly to be regarded. All sweet Pears be most nourishing, cleansing the breast of Phleagm, comforting the stomach, and least binding. Sour and harsh Pears are exceeding hurtful to the stomach and sinewy parts; unsavoury Pears breed ill juice, and bitter Pears nourish nothing at all. If a well relished Pear be also endued with a fragrant smell (as the Katherine Pear, Violet, Poppering, Sugar-Pear, Musk-pear and such like) they are to be preferred before all others. 
Scholar sal. c. 39   
Concerning the preparation of Pears, they are worst raw, and their skinn is most unwholesome; without wine they are counted poison, especially being largely taken as a meat. They are best being eaten last, as chose Apples for the most part are first to be eaten; because they are rather of a loosning then an astringent nature. They are best baked, 
lib. de. la. mais. rust.  then roasted; but dried Pears (in Harry Stevens judgement) surpass all for strong nourishment. They are temperate in heat and cold, but dry in the second degree: which causeth them to cease fluxes and vomits, to repel vapours, and strengthen the stomach.   

Pruna.  
Plums grow here in such variety, that to name them only were a tedious work. The most pulppy, sweet, pleasant and nourishing be these. Pear-plums, Violet-plums, Pescod-plums our Ladies-plums, Wheatplums, Maudlin's, and Damsins, whereof we have already spoken.  
The least nourishing (though some of them taste not unpleasantly, especially the Christian-plum) are Bullices, Christians, Prunellaes, Skegs and Horseplums.  
All Plums baked, stewed, or preserved with sugar do more plentifully nourish, because much of their sharpness, watrishness, and rawness is thereby corrected.  
Always remember to eat the sweetest sort before, and the sourest sorts of Plums after meat, least unorderly eating cause that to be blamed, which was good and wholesome in his due place.  
Here I have occasion to speak of the paste of Genoa made of fragrant and fine ripe Plums; which no doubt is not only cordial, but also restorative to such stomaches, as through extremities of agues have lost their strength.   

Mala Punica.  
Pomegranads when they are sweet and thorough ripe, loosen phlegm, help the stomach, breast, and cough, increase 
Gal. l. 8. simple.  venery, provoke urine, loosen the belly, moisten the spiritual parts, and give indifferent store of good nourishment: they are best in Winter for old men and phlegmatic constitutions.  

Gal ex. Diosc. lib. 1 cap. 127.  Sour Pomegranads hurt a cold stomach, straiten the breast, hinder expectoration, stop the liver, offend both teeth and gums, cool excessively, stay all humoral fluxes, yet provoke urine most plentifully; and therefore they are more prescribed in agues then the sweet ones, as also to choleric young men subject to scourings. Paulus Aegineta affirmeth, sour Pomegranads to bind only sound men's bodies, but not such as be sick. Howsoever it is, sith the one's goodness resisteth the others hurtfulness, it is best to mingle both their juices for such as be aguish or weak, and severally to use them for the strong according as occasion serveth.   

Mala cotonea & Cydonia.  
Quinces are of two sorts; an Apple-quince called malum cotoneum, and a Pear▪ quince called of Dioscorides Struthium; both of them were first brought from Cydon, a castle in Candy, whereupon they are commonly called mala Cydonia; we account most of the latter sort; but the cotton and downy Quince made like an Apple, is most commended of the Grecian and Latin writers. Of either of them choose the most clear, transparent, thin-skind, ungravelly, downy, best smelling, and most furrowed as it were with long streaks; for the very scent of such is comfortable, and though their raw flesh be as hard as raw beef unto weak stomaches, yet being roasted, or baked, or made into Marmalade, or cunningly preserved, they give a wholesome and good nourishment, and make the body soluble being eaten last at meat; for if you eat them first, they cling the stomach, cause exceeding costiffness, and hinder digestion, as Galen 
3 de alim. fac▪ cap. 22.  sufficiently tried in Protas the Orator. They are cold in the first degree, and dry almost in the second: agreeing with all ages, times, and complexions, where just occasion is given to use them.   

Uvae passae.  
Raisins are of the same temperature with the Grapes which they are made of, being also as divers in taste, substance and quality, as they be. That Noah was the first planter of Vines, Christians know better out of the Bible, than any Poet or heathen writer could ever aim at; but who first divised the drying of Raisins in the Sun, or the pressing them into frails, it is neither set down by Pliny nor any other Author that I have read. Only this I find by reason and experience, that the greatest, fattest, sweetest, longest and blewest Raisins of the Sun are ever best; nourishing sufficiently, moderately cleansing, very well temperating ill humours, mitigating all pains, and engendering very pure and good blood; yea the African Physicians that lived in Galens time did 
2 de alim. fac▪  with one voice and consent protest thus much of them, that for opening the breast, stomach and lungs; for cleansing the blood, kidneys, and bladder, for ceasing all pains of the guts and moderate nourishment, no fruit is to be compared unto Raisins. Matthiolus in his Commentaries 
Lib. 5. cap. 4.  upon Dioscorides saith that Raisins of the Sun being either voided of their kernels or growing without kernels, loosen the belly, help hoarseness, and both nourish and cleanse the liver: chose being eaten with the stones or kernels, they work rather a contrary operation. That Grapes nourish much, we may see (saith 
Lib. 2. de alim. fac. cap 9  Galen) by Vintage labourers, who come lean to the vineyard, but return as fat as Hogs. Much more do Rasins of the Sun and other Raisins nourish our bodies, and are therefore to be accounted for no bad meats.   

Pyra volema Plinij.  
Wardens or Palme-pears so called, because one of them will fill the palm of a hand, were first brought into 
Plin. l. 15. c. 15.  credit by Livia Pompeja; they are very hurtful and almost indigestible being eaten raw or green; but towards Winter they are very wholesome for a weak stomach, being stewed, baked, or roasted, and to be preferred for nourishment before all fruit; engendering (especially when they are sweet and red) most wholesome juice; strengthening concoction, repelling vapours from the head, and comforting the weak and decayed spirits: would to God every hedge were as full of them as they are of wild Pears and Crabs, that both poor and rich might have a competent nourishment when fish and flesh can hardly be gotten.   

juglandes'.  
walnuts or jupiters' acorns (for so the Greeks and Latins 
Mac. 3 sat. c. 18. Plin. lib. 23. c. 8  called them) are sufficiently nourishing whilst they are green, but when they once wax so dry that they hardly peel, they are more medicinable than nourishing: either 
Pis. de ●scul. & potul.  of them engender the cough and cause headache; but if you peel new Walnuts and wash them in wine and salt, they are least offensive to the stomach, and yet more nourishing if you eat them with sugar. Old Walnuts are hot in the third degree, and dry in the second; new Walnuts are most temperate in each respect, agreeing with old men and phlegmatic persons, being eaten at the end of the Fall, and the beginning of winter.    

CHAP. XXIII.  
Of such Fruits of the Garden as are nourishing.  
A Atichokes grew sometimes only in the Isle of Sicil; and since my remembrance they were so dainty in England, that usually they were sold for crowns a piece: now industry and skill hath made them so common, that the poorest man is possessed of Prince's dainties. Julius Capitolinus in the life of Pertinax, and Pliny likewise in the 19 book of his natural History, reports Artichokes to have been of such estimation in Carthage and Corduba, that there were sold as many Artichokes in one year, as came to six thousand Sesterces, which maketh thirty thousand pound Sterling. The first sprouts of Artichoke-leaus being sod in good broth with butter, 
Dod. lib. 4. Plam▪  do not only nourish, but also mightily stir up lust of the body both in men and women: the young heads of them eaten raw with pepper and salt do the like; but the great heads being once come to perfection, howsoever they are counted windy & hard of digestion, fuming up to the head, and burdensome to the stomach: yet certain it is that they are of great nourishment being well prepared. Some 
Gal. 2. de alim▪ fac.  boil them in fat powdered beef broth till they be tender, and then eat them with vinegar, pepper, sugar, butter, and salt. Others having parboiled them a little, take the pulpy part in the bottom, and with sweet Marrow, Verjuice, Pepper, Sugar, and Gooseberries, make most excellent and restorative Pies. The Italians broil them on a Gridiron, setting their bottoms downward, and pouring on a little sweet oil upon every leaf assoon as they open with the heat, and as that soaks in, they put in a little more: for if much should be poured in at once, they would smell of the smoke, by reason that the oil would drop into the fire. This way the Artichoke is least windy, and (if it be eaten with Sugar, Butter, and the juice of an Orange) most pleasant likewise. They are hot in two degrees, and dry in one; and therefore fittest for cold, aged persons, and complexions. Remember that raw Artichokes are to be eaten towards the end of meals, but the other at the beginning or in the midst.  

Asparagus.  
Asparagus was in old time a meat for such Emperors as Julius Caesar; now every board is served with them. They must be presently gathered when their heads bow downwards, and being sodden in two or three waters (to rid them of bitterness) they are to be boiled in mutton broth till they be tender, which is done in a trice. The greatest and tenderest stalked are ever best, and few or no kind of herbs nourish more, being spoiled of their bitterness and eaten hot. Galen doubteth of their active quality, but yet experience showeth them to be temperately moist, and not to exceed in heat the first degree.  

Dodon. lib. 2. hist. pl.  Ballocks-grass, or Satyrium (whereof there be five principal kinds) is only nourishing in the full, heavy and sappy root; for the other is of clean contrary disposition. Some eat them being boiled in Goat's milk and Sugar. Others candy them, or keep them in Syrup: any way they increase bodily lust strengthen the liver, help the parts of conception, restore them which are consumed, and give plentiful nourishment in hectic Fevors.▪   

Mora rubi.  
Bramble-berries, or Blackberries, be they of the greater or the less kind, are temperately warm, and sufficiently nourishing to a weak stomach. How the poor live upon them, daily experience showeth; yet being much eaten they bind the body, and engender such putrified humours as beget both scabs and lice.   

Borrago. Buglossa. Sirsium.  
borage, Bugloss and Langdebeif, are of so great a temperature in all qualities, that they are not only commended for special Cordials being steeped in Wine, or made into Conserves; but also their flowers, herbs, and roots are esteemed restorative, nourishing weak bodies sufficiently, and strengthening the parts of nourishment more than meanly, being sodden in broths, culliss, or jellies.   

Personatae radix.  
Burr-roots, (I mean of the Clot burr, called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 by the Greeks) whilst they are young and tender, in the month of April, are very wholesome and nourishing, being eaten like a young green Artichoke with pepper and salt. The Frenchmen and Italians first found them out: since which time they are more common amongst us, through the means of them which have traveled into strange Countries.   

Brassicae.  
Coleworts be of divers sorts, but the most nourishing of all is your white-leafed Cabbage (as big as a great 
Plin.  loaf) called Brassica Tritiana, and that which the Italians calleth Cauli flores: so beloved of Pompey, that it was termed Brassica Pompeiana. Either of them must first gently be sodden in fair water, than again steeped all night in warm milk; afterwards seeth them with fat marrow or in fat brews, and they are very nourishing without offence. Otherwise all Coleworts engender gross and melancholic blood. Choose ever the whitest and tenderest leafed, for they are of the finest and 
Alex. l. 5. c▪ ●1.  best nourishment. The Egyptians eat Cabbage first to prevent drunkenness.   

Danci hortenses.  
Carot roots, are very temperate in heat and dryness, of an aromatical and spice-like taste, warming the inward parts, and giving great nourishment to indifferent stomaches, being sodden in fat and fleshy broth, or else buttered. The yellower the root, the more sweet, tender, and aromatical is the Carot: and the best grow in a black, soft and ripe though not in a forced earth.   

Anguriae Citruli.  

Plin. l. 19 c. 9  Citruls, (so much beloved of Tiberius the Emperor) are of like temperature with Melons and Pompions (of whom hereafter) nourishing hot stomaches very well being boiled with good flesh or sweet milk.   

C●cumeres. Melopepones.  

Galen.  Cucumbers growing in hot grounds and well ripened with the Sun, are neither moist nor cold in the second degree. They agree well with hot stomaches being eaten with vinegar, salt, oil, and pepper: but if you boil them (whilst they are young) with white-wine, vervin, dill, and salt liquor, they are not of a bad nourishment (as Galen took them) but engender good humours, and settle a very cold and weak stomach: as by much practice and long experience I have proved in divers persons.   

Schaenoprasa.  
Cives, or Rush-leeks be almost as hot as Leeks themselves. Some eat them raw in Salads, but then they nourish not. If you boil them twice or thrice in water, they lose their overhot and drying nature, and give no bad nourishment to cold stomaches.   

Glandes' terrestres Dodonaei.  
Earthnuts grow much on Richmond Heath and Coome Park, as also beside Bath as you travel to Bristol. They are best in May. In Holland and Brabant they are eaten (as the roots of Turnips and Parsneps) boiled in flesh-broth, which correcteth their binding quality, and maketh them of good and wholesome nourishment.   

Bulbocastanea.  
Earth-chesnuts are far bigger than Earthnuts, and the flowers of them are white where the others be red. About Bath there is great plenty of them, and they are of like nourishment and use with the Earthnuts.   

Intubum sativum latifolium.  
Endive (especially that which hath the longest, largest, softest, and whitest leaves) is of good nourishment to hot stomaches, not only cooling but also increasing blood; if it be sodd in white broth till it be tender: but if you eat it raw in salads (as it is most commonly used) than it only cooleth and lieth heavy in the stomach, because it is not freed from its crudities.   

Vacinia palustria.  
Fen-berries grow not only in Holland in low and moist places, but also (if I have not forgotten it) in the Isle of Eli. They are of like temper and faculty with our whortles, but somewhat more astringent. Being eaten raw or stewed with sugar, they are wholesome meat in hot burning fevers, unto which either fluxes of humours or spending of spirits are annexed. Likewise they quench thirst no less than Ribs, and the red or outlandish Gooseberrie.   

Mora Rubi Idaei.  
Trambois, or Raspis are of complexion like the Blackberry and Dewberry, but not of so astringent nor drying quality. Furthermore they are more fragrant to the Nose and more pleasant in taste, and of far better nourishment to hot stomaches for cold stomaches cannot convert them into any good juice.   

Allium.  
Garlick was so odious or hurtful to Horace that he makes it more venomous than Hemlocks, Adders 
Horat. l. 3. apod  blood, Medea's cups, yea then the poison of Nessus the Centaur which killed Hercules. chose the Thracians eat it every morning to breakfast, and 
Suidas.  earry it with them in warfare as their chiefest meat. Whereat we need not marvel, considering the coldness of their Country and their phlegmatic constitution. Let us rather wonder at the Spaniard, who eats it more (being a hot Nation) than our labouring men do here in England. Whereby we may see how preparation begetteth in every thing another nature: for the Thracians eat it raw because of their extreme coldness; but the Spaniard sodden first in many waters, or else roasted under the embers in a wet paper, whereby it is made sweet and pleasant, and hath lost more than half of his heat and dryness Thus is Garlick medicine and meat: medicine if it be eaten raw, but meat and nourishment being roasted under the embers, or sticked like lard in fat meat, or boiled in many waters, broths, or milks. By which way also his fuming and diuretical quality is much corrected. Yet beware lest you eat too much of it, lest it engender little worms in your flesh, as it did 
Crinz. l. 3. ca 3. hist. saxon.  in Arnulphus the Emperor, whereof he died. It is very dangerous to young children, fine women, and hot young men; unless the heady, hot and biting quality thereof be extinguished by the foresaid means.   

Cucurbitae.  
Gourds eaten raw and unprepared, are a very unwholesome food, as Galen saith, exceedingly cooling, charging, and loading the stomach; and engendering crudities and wind. But being boiled, baked, or fried with butter, it loseth his hurtfulness, and giveth good nourishment to indifferent stomaches. The seed of it being husked and boiled in new milk is counted very restorative in hectic fevers.   

Grossulae. Uvae crispae.  
Gooseberries being through ripe are as nourishing as sweet, and of the like temper, not only increasing flesh, but also fatting the body. They should be eaten first and not last, because they are so light a fruit. When they are almost ripe they are restorative being made into Codiniack, or baked in Tarts. Sour Gooseberries nourish nothing, serving rather for sauce to please one's taste, then to augment flesh.   

Grossulae transmarinae.  
Red Gooseberries or bastard▪ Corinth's, commonly called Ribs of Apothecaries, and taken of Dodonaeus for the Bears-berry of Galen; is almost of the like nature 
lib. 7. de med. sec. loc.  with Gooseberries, but more cold, dry, and astringent by one degree, because they never wax sweet in our Country. They are very cordial and cooling in Agues, being eaten either in Conserve, or Codiniack; yea nourishing also to hot stomaches.   

Lupularii asparagi.  
Hop-shootes are of the same nature with Asparagus, nourishing not a little, being prepared in the like sort (which is before described) though rather cleansing and scouring of their own nature.   

Alliaria.  
Jack by the hedge, as it is not much used in Medicines, so it was heretofore a very ancient and common meat, being therefore called Sauce alone. Country men do boil it and eat it in stead of Garlic, being no less strengthened and nourished by it then the Persian children were with Town-cresses. I allow it not for indifferent stomaches, unless it have been steeped in divers warm waters, and then be eaten (as Garlic may be eaten) moderately: for it is hot and dry more then in the third degree.   

Porra.  
Leeks are esteemed so wholesome and nourishing in our Country, that few think any good Pottage can be made without them. That they engender blood no author denies, but they say it is gross, hot, and evil blood. Nevertheless if they be first sodden in milk, and then used in meat, they are unclothed of all bad qualities, and become friendly to the stomach, and nourishing 
Polemon lib. de Samothra●. Athen. l. 9 c. 3.  to the liver. The Grecians made such reckoning of Leeks, as our Welsh men do; yea he ever sat uppermost at Apollo's feast that brought thither the greatest headed Leek. Some impute that to his mother Latona her longing for Leeks whilst she was with child of Apollo. Others say that Apollo did so highly esteem them, because they engender much blood and seed, whereby mankind is much increased: which opinion I like best of, hearing and seeing such fruitfulness in Wales, that few or none be found barren, and many fruitful before their time.   

Porrum sectivum Palladii.  
The unset Leek or Maiden-leek is not so hot as the knopped ones; because his fuming quality is diminished by often cutting.   

Lactuca.  
Lettuce is not more usually then profitably eaten of us in Summer; yea Galen did never eat of any other Garden herb save this (for aught we read) whereby he 
2 de alim. fac.  delayed the heat of his stomach in youth, eating it foremost, and slept sound and quietly in age, eating it last. It is better sodden then raw, especially for weak stomaches: and if any will eat it raw, correct it with mingling a little Tarragon and Fennel with it. The young loaft. Lettuce is simply best, but you must not wash it, for than it loseth its best and most nourishing virtue that lieth upon the outmost skin: only pluck away the leaves growing near the ground, till you come to the cabbage of the Lettuce, and it is enough. Long use of Lettuce causeth barrenness, cooleth lust, dulleth the eyesight, weakeneth the body, and quencheth natural heat in the stomach: but moderately and duly taken of hot natures, it increaseth blood, seed, and milk, stayeth all fluxes of nature, bringeth on sleep and cooleth the heat of Urine. The middle and thickest part of the leaf being boiled and preserved in Syrup (as Endiff and Succory is done beyond-sea) give a great nourishment to weak persons newly recovered of hot Agues. The Romans did eat Lettuce last to provoke sleep: we eat it first to provoke appetite. So that Marshal's question is fully answered:  

Claudere quae coenas Lactuce solebat avorum.  
Dic mihi, cur nostras incipit illa Dapes?  
When elder times did feed on Lettuce last,  
Why is it now the first meat that we taste?    

Melones & Pepones.  
Melons and Pompions are not so cold nor moist as Cucumbers. Growing in a hot ground and thoroughly ripened with hot and dry weather, they give much nourishment, especially being baked with good flesh or sweet milk, or baked with sweet apples butter and fennel-seed.   

Melopepones.  
Musk-melons are neither so moist nor cold as the ordinary sort, engendering far better blood, and descending more speedily into the belly. They will hardly prosper in our Country, unless they are set in a very fat, hot, and dry ground, having the benefit of Sunshine all the year long. Jason Mainus (a most famous Civilian) so loved a Muskmelon, that he said to one of 
Pe●n. sac. lib. 4. Ticin hist.  his friends, Were I in Paradise as Adam was, and this Fruit forbidden me, Verily, I fear me, I should leave Paradise to taste of a Muskmelon. Nevertheless let not the pleasant smell or taste of them draw any man to eat 
C●spinianus.  too much of them, for they cast Albertus secundus the 
Cromerus.  Emperor into a deadly flux; Sophia Queen of Poland 
Platina.  into a numbed Palsy, and Paulus secundus the Pope into a mortal Apoplexy. All Melons, Pompions, and Cucumbers, are not presently to be eaten out of the ground (though they be fully ripe) but rather a week after for with delay they prove less moist, and also less cold. As for our great Garden Pompions and Melons they may tarry in a warm Kitchen till towards Christmas before they be eaten, to be more dried from their watrishness, and freed from crudities.   

Napi.  
Navews, especially Napus sativus, called in English Navew gentle, nourish something less than Turnips, otherwise they are of like operation. They are best sodden in powdered Beef broth, or else with fat Mutton, or powdered Pork.   

Cepae.  
Onions are very hot and dry; nevertheless being roasted or boiled in fat broth or milk, they become temperate and nourishing, leaving their hot and sharp nature in the broth or embers. The Priests of Egypt abhorred 
Plut. l. de Iside & Osiride.  them of all herbs; first because (contrary to the course of other things) they increase most when the Moon decreaseth. Secondly, because they nourish too much, and procure lust, which religious men, of all other persons, aught to refrain. The greater, whiter, longer, sweeter, thinner-skinned, and fuller of juice they be (such are St. Thomas Onions) the more they nourish, and excel in goodness: but if they be very red, dry, round, light, and sowrish, they are not so commendable. Raw Onions be like raw Garlic, and raw Leeks (that is to say, of great malignity, hurting both head, eyes, and stomach, enflaming blood, and engendering both gross and corrupt humours) but sodden in milk, and then eaten Sallad-wise with sweet oil, vinegar, and sugar (as we use them in Lent) they are hurtful to no persons nor complexions.   

Apium hortense.  
Parsley nourisheth most in the root; for if you choose young roots and shift them out of two or three warm waters, they lose their medicinable faculty of opening and cleansing, and become as sweet, yea almost as nourishing as a Carot being sodden in fat broth made with good flesh. The like may I say of Alexander buds 
Dodon. lib. 5. hist. plaut.  which is nothing but the Parsley of Alexandria) being dressed or prepared in the like manner: otherwise they may be used (as Nettles are) in Springtime pottage to cleanse blood, but they will give no laudable or rather no nourishment at all.   

Portulaca.  
Purslane is usually eaten green in salads, as Lettuce likewise. But being sodden in wine it is of good nourishment in the Summer time unto hot stomaches, which are able to overcome it.   

Radices Sisari Indici.  
Potado-roots are now so common and known amongst us, that even the husbandman buys them to please his wife. They nourish mightily, being either sodd, baked, or roasted. The newest and heaviest be of best worth, engendering much flesh, blood, and seed, but withal increasing wind and lust. Clusius thinks them to be Indian Skirrets, and verily in taste and operation they resemble them not a little.   

Radicula sativa.  
Radish roots of the Garden (for they are best) are either long and white without, or round like a Turnip, and very black skinned, called the Italian Radish. Most men eat them before meat to procure appetite, and help digestion. But did they know (and yet they feel it) what rank belchings Radishes make, how hardly they are digested, how they burn blood, and engender lice, cause leanness, rot the teeth, weaken eyesight, and corrupt the whole mass of nourishment, I think they would be more temperate and sparing of them; yet were so prized amongst the Grecians, that at Apollo's feast when Turnips were served in tinn dishes, and Beets in silver, yet Radish roots were not served but in golden dishes. Notwithstanding, sith by nature they provoke vomiting, how can they be nourishing? unless it be to such rustical stomaches as are offended with nothing, and to whom resty Bacon is more agreeable than young and tender pork. Nevertheless sith only the heat and biting of radish, are the chiefest cause why it nourish little or nothing (as Galen saith) no doubt if by steeping in warm 
3 de alim fac.  milk, or boiling in fat broth those qualities be removed, it would prove the less medicinable & more nourishing.   

Rapi Silvestris radix.  
Rampions or wild Rapes, of nature not unlike to Turnips, eaten raw with vinegar and salt, do not only stir up an appetite to meat, but also are meat and nourishment of themselves. In high Germany they are much eaten, and now our Nation knows them indifferently well; and begin to use them.   

Radix Allii ursini.  
Ramseys are of like virtue and power with Garlic, and are so to be prepared, or else they give neither much nor any good nourishment.   

Rapae.  
Rapes or Turnips, sodden in fat broth, or roasted with butter and sugar put into the midst thereof, nourish plentifully, being moderately taken; for if they be undigested through excess, they stir up windiness, and many superfluous humours in the body. The Bohemians have Turnips as red outwardly as blood, which I did eat of in Prague, and found them a most delicate meat; yea they are counted so restorative and dainty, that the Emperor himself nurseth them in his Garden. Roasted Turnips are so sweet and delicate, that Mavius Curius 
Plin. l. 9 c. 15.  refused much gold, offered him by the Samnites, rather than to leave his Turnip in the Embers.   

Radices Eringii marini.  
Sea holly roots are of temperate heat and cold, but somewhat of too dry a nature; yet prove they moist enough to give plentiful nourishment, after they have been preserved in syrup or candied with ginger, increasing blood, seed, and lust, and restoring such as by lechery have been much consumed.   

Radices Sisari.  
Skirret-roots were so sweet & delicate in ancient times, that Tiberius Caesar, caused the Inhabitants of Gelduba (a certain signory upon the Rhine) to pay him tribute at 
Plin. l. 19 ca ●.  Rome in Skirret-roots; bringing them weekly thither whilst they were in season. They have a long string or pith within them, which being taken away before they are through sod, maketh them eat exceeding sweet; usually they are boiled till they be tender, and then eaten cold with vinegar, oil and pepper; but if they be roasted four or five together in a wet paper under embers (as one would roast a Potado) or strained into tart-stuff, and so baked with sugar, butter and rose-water, they are far more pleasant and of stronger nourishment, agreeing with all complexions, sexes and ages, being also of a mild heat and a temperate moisture. Did we know all the strength and virtues of them, they would be much nourished in our Gardens, and equally esteemed with any Potado root.   

Cepa Ascalonites.  
Skallions are a kind of little Onions, brought first from Ascalon a Town of Jewry; very hot and dry, yea hotter and drier by one degree then any Onions. Cold stomaches and barren weaklings may safely eat them raw to procure appetite and lust; but they are not nourishing to indifferent stomaches till they have been perboild in new milk. Some correct them, by mincing them small, and steeping them a good while in warm water, 
Pisanel. de. esc. & potul.  afterwards they eat them with vinegar, oil and salt, after the Italian fashion.   

Spinachia.  
Spinach being boiled soft and then eaten with butter, small currens and sugar heat together upon a chafing dish, giveth no bad nor little nourishment to dried bodies, and is only hurtful to such as be over-phlegmatick.   

Fragulae.  
Strawberries of the garden, be they white, red, or green (but the red are best) being once come to their full ripeness in a warm Summer, and growing in a warm ground, are to a young hot stomach both meat and medicine. Medicine to cool his choler & excessive heat; meat by his temperate and agreeable moisture, fit at that time of the year to be converted into blood; especially being eaten raw with wine and sugar, or else made into tart stuff and so baked: howsoever they be prepared, let every man take heed by Melchior Duke of Brunswick how he eateth too much of them, who is recorded to have burst a sunder at Rostock with surfeiting upon them. Cranz. lib. 9 cap. 9 Hist. Vandal.   

Radix spirae albae.  
Thistle-roots (I mean of the white thistle when it first springeth) are exceeding restorative and nourishing, being sodden in white▪ stewed broth, or else baked in Tarts, or in Pies like Artichoks: few men would think so good meat to lie hidden in so base and abject an herb, had not trial and cookery found out the virtue of it.   

Rapae rotund.  
Turnips (in commendation whereof Moschio the Grecian wrote a large volumn) are nothing but round Rapes, whereof heretofore we writ in this Chapter. 
Plin. l. 9 ca 15.    

Nastureia aquatica.  
Water-cresses and Town-cresses nourish raw and cold stomaches very well: but for hot or indifferent stomaches they are of a contrary nature. Xenophon saith, that the 
1 Cyropaed.  Persians children going to School, carry nothing with them to eat and drink, but Cresses in the one hand and Bread in the other, and an earthen cruse at their girdle to take up water in: whereby we may perceive that they agree well with moist natures, and such as are accustomed to drink water: Otherwise no doubt they nourish nothing, but rather over heat and burn the blood.  
As for Anise, Blites, Blood-wort, Broom-buds, Gapars, Calamint, Clary, Dill, Fennel, Galangal, Hisope, Marigolds, Mustardseed, Mints, Nettles, Orache, Patience, Primroses, Rosemary, Saffron, Sage, Sampire, Savory, Tamarisk, Tansy, Tarragon, Time, Violets and Wormwood: howsoever they are used sometimes in broths, pottage, farrings, sauces, salads and tansies; yet no nourishment is gotten by them, or at the least so little, that they need not, nor ought not to be counted amongst nourishments.    

CHAP. XXIV.  
Of such Fruits of the Field, as are nourishing.  
THe chief fruits of the field are Wheat, Rye, Rice, Barley, Oats, Beanes, Chiches, Pease and Lentils.  

Triticum.  
Wheat is divided into divers kinds by Pliny, Columella, Dodonaeus, Pena and Lobelius; it shall be sufficient for us to describe the sorts of this Country, which are especially two: The one red called Robus by Columella, and the other very white and light called Siligo, whereof is made our purest manchet. Being made into Furmity and sodden with milk and sugar, or artificially made into bread; Wheat nourisheth exceeding much 
Dios. l. 2. c. 78. Gal. 1. de alim. fac. cap. 2.  and strongly: the hardest, thickest, heaviest, cleanest, brightest and growing in a fat soil, is ever to be chosen; for such Wheat (in Dioscorides and Galens judgement) is most nourishing.   

Secale.  
Rye seemeth to be nothing but a wild kind of wheat, meet for Labourers, Servants and Workmen, but heavy of digestion to indifferent stomaches.   

Oriza.  
Rice is a most strong and restorative meat, discommendable only in that it is over-binding; very wholesome pottage is made thereof with new milk, sugar, cinnamon, mace and nutmegs: whose astringency if any man fear, let him soak the Rice one night before in sweet Whey, and afterwards boil it in new milk with sugar, butter, cloves and nutmegs, leaving out cinnamon and mace. Thus shall the body be nourished, costiveness prevented, and nature much strengthened and increased.   

Hordeum.  
Barley used any way in bread, drink or broth, is ever 
lib. de alim. fac. cap. 9  cooling (saith Galen) and engendereth but a thin and weak juice. Before we use it in broths or Ptisan, it should be clean hulld, and washed in many waters. The decoction of Barley in chicken-broth, strained with a few blauncht almonds, and sweetened with sugar, and rose-water, is a very convenient meat for sound men, but more for them which are sick and abhor flesh.  

lib. 6. cap. 20. de rer. var.  Cardan saith that Galen maketh mention of a kind of Barley in Greece▪ growing without a husk, and hulld by nature; which place he never citeth, because he was mistaken; for through all Galen I could never find any such thing, though of purpose I searched for it very diligently. The best Barley is the biggest and yellowest without, and fullest, closest and heaviest within; it is never to be used in meat till it be half a year old, because lying causeth it to ripen better, and to be also far less windy. Being made into Malt by a sweet fire and good cunning, it is the foundation of our English wine, which being as well made as it is at Not●ingam, proveth meat drink and cloth to the poorer sort. Parched Barley or Malt is hot and dry, but otherwise it is temperately cooling and less drying. That Wheat and Rye is far 
Plut. in. Nat. Quest  more nourishing than Barley. Plutarch would thence prove, because they are half a year longer in the earth, and are of a more thick, sappy, and firm substance. But Rice (being counted and called by Tragus German Barley) disarmeth that reason, which is not sowed till March and yet is of as great or rather greater nourishment.   

Avenae.  

1 de alim. fac. cap. 14.  Oats termed by Galen the Asses and Horses provender, are of the like nature with Barley, but more astringent, especially being old and thorough dry. Had Galen seen the Oaten cakes of the North; the Janocks of Lancashire, and the Grues of Cheshire, he would have confessed that Oats and Oatmeal are not only meat for beasts▪ but also for tall, fair and strong men and women of all callings and complexions: but we pardon the Grecians delicacy, or else ascribe it to the badness of their soil, which could bring forth▪ no Oats fit for nourishment. Choose the largest, heaviest, sweetest, fullest and blackest to make your Oatmeal groats of, for they are least windy and most nourishing.   

Fabae.  
Beans were first a field fruit, howsoever (to make them more sappy) they have lately been set and kept in gardens. Pythagoras forbade his Scholars to eat of them (especially coming once to be great and black-taild) because they hinder sleep and procure watchfulness (for which cause they were given to judges as they sat down in judgement) or else in sleep cause fearful and 
Suidas.  troublesome dreams, as you may read in Tullius second book of Divination; wherefore howsoever Camatherus (Immanuel Commenaeus his Secretary) ventured for 
Nicetas l. 3. de reb. Immanuel.  them, or men now affect them in these days; assuredly they are a very hurtful meat, unless they be eaten very young, and sod in fat broth, and afterwards (being freed of their husk) be eaten in the beginning or midst of meal, buttered throughly and sufficiently sprinkled with gross pepper and salt; then will they nourish much, and too too much increase seed to lusty wantoness.   

Ciceres.  
Chiches of England are very hard and unwholesome; but in Italy and France there is a kind of red Chich, yielding a sweet, fine and nourishing flour: whereof thick pap or pottage being made with sugar, you shall hardly find any grain or pulse of comparable nourishment; as my most honourable good Lord, the Lord Willoughby of Eresby, in his most dangerous consumption did well testify. Perhaps this broth was that, for a mess whereof Esau sold his birthright; for no pulse but this maketh a red pottage.   

Pisa.  
Pease are not fully so windy as Beans, and also of better nourishment, because they are less abstersive. French-pease, Hasty pease, and Gray-pease, be the tenderest and sweetest of all others; for the common field-pease or green-pease is too hard of digestion for indifferent stomaches. Take the youngest, and seeth them thoroughly, butter them plentifully, and season them well with salt and pepper; so will they prove a light meat, and give convenient nourishment in Summer time.   

Lentes.  
Lentiles were so prized in Athenaeus time, that one wrote a whole treatise in their commendation; and Diogenes 
Athe. l. 4. c. 18.  commended them above all meats to his Scholars, because they have a peculiar virtue to quicken the wit. Let us (for shame) not discontinue any longer this wholesome nourishment, but rather strive to find out some preparation, whereby they may be restored to their former or greater goodness.    

CHAP. XXV.  
Of the Variety, Excellency, Making, and true use of Bread▪  

The dignity and necessity of Bread.  
BRead is a food so necessary to the life of man, that whereas many meats be loathed naturally, of some persons, yet we never saw, read, nor heard of any man that naturally hated bread. The reasons whereof I take to be these. First because it is the staff of life, without which all other meats would either quickly putrify in our stomaches, or sooner pass through them than they should, whereupon crudities, belly-worms and fluxes do arise to such children or persons, as either eat none or too little Bread.  
Again, Neither flesh, fruit nor fish are good at all seasons, for all complexions, for all times, for all constitutions and ages of men; but Bread is never out of season, disagreeing with no sickness, age, or complexion, and therefore truly called the companion of life. No child so young but he hath Bread, or the matter of Bread in his pap: no man so weak, but he eats it in his broth, or sucks it out of his drink. It neither inflameth the choleric, nor cooleth the phlegmatic, nor over-moistneth the sanguine, nor drieth the melancholic.  

Plut. Symp. 7.  Furthermore it is to be admired (saith Plutarch) that Bread doth of all other things best nourish and strengthen both man and beast; insomuch that with a little Bread they are enabled for a whole day's journey, when with twice as much meat they would have fainted. Wherefore it was not a small threatening, when God said he would break the staff of bread; without which our meat giveth no strength (as I said before) but either corrupteth in the stomach, or is converted to slimy crudities; we may also remember, that of all compound meats it is the first of all mentioned in the Scripture, namely in the third of Genesis; where God threateneth Adam that in the sweat of his brows he should eat his bread. Again in the Lord's Prayer we ask for all bodily nourishment in the name of Bread, because Bread may be justly called the meat of meats, as without whom there is no good nor substantial nourishment. The Italians have a Proverb, That all troubles are easy with bread, and no pleasure pleasant without Bread. Signifying thereby, our lives to consist more in Bread, then in any other meat whatsoever,  
To conclude, when Christ would describe himself unto us whilst he lived, and leave a memorial unto us of himself after death: his wisdom found no Hieroglyphical character wherein better to express himself (the only nourisher and feeder of all mankind) then by the sight, taking and eating of Bread: so that I may boldly prefer it above all nourishment, being duly and rightly used, as agreeing with all times, ages, and constitutions of men, either sick or sound; which cannot be verified of any one nourishment besides.  
Upon which and some other things, arose these questions and sayings,  
Whether eating of crusts of Bread, and sinews of flesh, make a man strong?  
Whether Ashes be Physic, and mouldy Bread clear the eyesight?  
Money and Bread never brought plague.  
Bread and Cheese be the two targets against death.   

The Authors and Inventors of Bread.  
Who was the first Author or Inventor of making Bread, I will not take upon me to determine. Pliny ascribeth 
lib. 7. cap. 56.  it to Ceres; who seeing what hurt came to men by eating of Acorns, devised a means how to pound Corn into Meal, and then to work, form and bake it into loaves and cakes. Pausanias ascribeth it to 
in▪ Aread.  Arcas, jupiter, and Calistoes' son. But without all question Adam knew it first, whosoever was the first that made it; yea sigh it is the strengthner of life, no doubt as he and his son knew how to sow Corn, so they were not ignorant or unpractised in the chief use thereof.   

The differences of Bread.  
Concerning the differences of Bread, some are taken from the meats we eat; for the Romans had panem Ostrearium, which they only did eat with Oysters. They 
Plin. l. 18. c. 11.  had also their dainty Bread, made with honey, spice and flour: they had also a hasty cake, called panis speuticus learned first in Greece; likewise their bread differed in baking, some being baked upon the hearth, others broiled it upon gridirons, others fried it like pancakes, others baked it in ovens, others sod it in seam like fritters; others boiled it in water like cimnels, being called panes aquatici; which the Parthians taught them.  
But the chief differences are in the variety of matter, whereof they consist; and the variety of goodness, which I will declare in order. Some Countries (where Corn was either never sown at all, or being sowed cannot prosper) make bread of such things made into meal as their soil yieldeth. The Oritae, Green lander and 
Plin. i. 7. cap. 2. Diod. lib. 3. c. 3. Herodot. li. 2.  North-Icelanders make it of dried fish, which being thorough dried in the Sun, they beat it first with hammers, than pound it with pestils, and form cakes with water, which they tossed at their fires, made only of great fishes bones (for they have no wood) and eat it instead of Bread; yet live they well, and look well, and enjoy pleasures (saith Hector Boethius in his Scottish History) abounding in children, strength and contentment, though not in wealth. The Brasilians make Bread of the root of a herb ressembling Purcelane, and of the barks of 
2. lib. de gest. Emanuel.  trees as Osorius writeth; whom I may believe, because I have eaten of the same Bread, brought home by Sir Francis Drake. The most part of Egyptians make 
Herodot. li. 2.  Bread of Lotus seed, resembling poppy: but they 
Diod. lib. 3. c. 3  which dwell by the River Astupas made it of dried roots beaten to powder, which they form like a Tilestone, and baked it hard in the Sun. Like Bread made the 
Plin. l. 2. c. 43.  Thracians of Tribulus or water-nut roots, and the Arabians of Dates. But the best is made of Graine, which the Romans for 600 years after their City was built, had not yet learned: and was not afterwards publicly 

Alex. ab▪ Alex. lib 3. c. 11. ex. Plinio.  
Suet. in vita. jul. Cae.   practised by bakers, till the Persian wars. As for wheaten bread it was so rare in Caesar's time, that none knew how to make it save his own Baker. And again white manchet was so hard to come by in the Grecian 
Luc. in dial. de merc. con  Courts, that Lucian protested a man could never get enough of it, no not in his dream. Spiced Bread was more ancient; for Diogenes loved it above all meats, 
Laer. in. vita. Diog.  and Hypocrates and Plato make mention of it. Brown-bread was used in Philoxenus his age and long before; who having eaten up all the White-bread at the Sophists 
Athen. lib. 1. Dionyss 3.  table, one set him a great brown-loaf on the table, on whom he bestowed this jest: Ho lafoy! not too much, not too much good fellow, lest it be night too soon. Thus much of the ancient making of Bread; now let us consider.   

The usual matter of Bread.  
First, whereof Bread is made in our days, Secondly how it is made, Thirdly when, and in what order, Fourthly in what quantity it is to be eaten.  
Touching the first: Bread is usually made of Rye, Barley, Oats, Missellin or pure Wheat▪ Rye-bread is 
Gal. de all. fac. Isaac. in partic. Diaet.  cold and of hard concoction, breeding wind and gripe in the belly, engendering gross humours, being as unwholesome for indifferent stomaches, as it agreeth with strong bodies and laborious persons; yet openeth it, and cureth the hemorrhoids.  

Averrh. 5. Col. Psel. de. pr. & caen. ●at.  Barley▪ Bread is little or nothing better, being tough and heavy of digestion, choking the small veins, engendering crudities, and stuffing the stomach.  
Oaten-bread is very light being well made, more scouring than nourishing if the Oatmeal be new, and too much binding if it be old. Howbeit Oats in Greece are recorded to be so temperate, that they neither stir nor stay the belly.  

Gal. 1. de. la. fa.  Misslin or Munckcorn-bread, made of Rye and Wheat together, is esteemed better or worse, accordingly as it is mingled more with this or that grain.  
But of all other Wheaten-bread is generally the best for all stomaches, yet of so stopping a nature▪ if it be too fine, because it is of best temper, and agreeth with all natures and complexions   

Things to be observed in the well making of Bread.  
Concerning the well making whereof, we must have great choice and care. 1. Of the Wheat itself. 2. Of the Meal. 3. Of the Water. 4. Of the Salt. 5. Of the Leven. 6. Of the Dough or Past. 7. Of the Moulding. 8. Of the Oven. 9 Of the baking. All which circumstances I most willingly prosecute to the full, because as Bread is the best nourishment of all other, being well made, so is it simply the worst being marred in the ill handling.  
1. Concerning the Wheat, it must be through ripe ere it is gathered, two months old ere it be thrashed, and a month or two old after that (at the least) ere it be grinded. Choose ever the yellowest without, and smoothest, growing in a hot and fat soil, hard, white and full within, clean thrashed and winnowed, then clean washed and dried, afterwards grossly grinded (for that makes the best flour) in a Mill wherein the grind-stones are of French Marble, or some other close or hard stone.  
2. The Meal must neither be so finely grinded (as I said) lest the bran mingle with it, nor too grossly, lest you lose much flour, but moderately gross, that the Bran may be easily separated, and the fine Flour not hardly bolted. You must not presently mould up your meal after grinding, lest it prove too hot; nor keep it too long lest it prove fusty and breed worms, or be otherwise tainted with long lying. Likewise though the best manchet (called panis Siligineus of Pliny) be made of the finest flour▪ passed through a very fine boulter, yet that Bread which is made of courser Meal (called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 of the Grecians) is of lighter digestion and of stronger nourishment.  
3. The Water must be pure, from a clear River or Spring: not too hot lest the Dough cling, nor too cold lest it crumble, but lukewarm.  
4. The Salt must be very white, finely beaten, not too much nor too little, but to give an indifferent seasoning.  
5. The Leaven must be made of pure Wheat, it must not be too old lest it prove too sour, nor too new lest it work to no purpose, nor too much in quantity, lest the Bread receive not a digesting but a fretting quality. Where by the way note, that loaves made of pure Wheaten-meal require both more leaven and more labouring, and more baking, than either course cheat, or then Bread mingled of meal and grudgins. In England our finest Manchet is made without Leaven, which maketh Cheat Bread to be the lighter of both, and also the more wholesome; for unleavened Bread is good for no man.  

Gal. 1. de. alim. fac. cap. 2.  6. The Dough of white Bread must be throughly wrought, and the manner of moulding must be first with strong kneading, then with rolling to and fro, and last of all with wheeling or turning it round about, that it may sit the closer; afterwards cut it slightly in the midst round about, and give it a slit or two thorough from the top to the bottom with a small knife, to give a vent every way to the inward moisture whilst it is in baking.  
7. The Loaves should neither be too great nor too little: for as little Loaves nourish least, so if the Loaves be too great, the Bread is scarce thoroughly baked in the midst: wherefore the Francklins' Bread of England is counted most nourishing, being of a middle size, between gentlemen's Rolls or little Manchets, and the great Loaves used in Yeoman's houses.  
8. The Oven must be proportionable to the quantity of Bread, heated every where alike, and by degrees; not too hot at the first, lest the outside be burnt and the inside clammy; nor too cold, lest the Bread prove sad and heavy in our stomaches.  
9 Last of all Concerning the baking, it must not stay too long in the Oven, lest it prove crusty, dry and choleric; nor too little a while, for fear it be clammy and of ill nourishment, fitter to cram Capons and Poultry, then to be given to sick or sound men.  
Bread being thus made, strengtheneth the stomach, and carrieth truly with it the staff of nourishment. jupiters' Priests (called Flamines Diales) were forbidden to eat either Meal or Leaven by themselves, yet might they eat 
lib. Quae. Rom.  of leavened Bread and none other. The reason whereof is alleged by Plutarch. They might eat no Meal, because it is an imperfect and raw nourishment; being neither Wheat which it was, nor Bread which it should be; for Meal hath lost (which it had) the form of Grain, and wanteth (which it is to have) the form of Bread. They might eat no Leaven, because Leaven is the Mother and Daughter of corruption, souring all if it be too much, and distasting all if it be too little: but when a just proportion is kept betwixt them both, Leaven corrects the Meals imperfection, and Meal resisteth Leavens corruption, making together a well relished mass (called Bread) which is justly termed the staff of life.  

Bread▪ of a day, Wine of a year, Meal of a month.  As for Bunns made with Eggs and Spices, as also for Sugar-cakes, Wafers, Simnels and Cracknels, and all other kind of delicious stuff, wherein no Leaven cometh; I will not deny them a medicinable use for some bodies, but if they be usually and much eaten, they rather help to corrupt then to nourish our bodies.   

Of the age of Bread.  
Touching the age of Bread, As the Egyptians Bread made of Lotus seed is never either good or light till it be 
Plin li. 2. c. 20.  hot; so chose all Bread made of Grain is never good till it be fully cold. Hot Bread is exceeding dangerous 
Gal. 1. de al. sa.  swimming in the stomach procuring thirst, most 
Avic. can. 2.  hardly digesting, and filling the body full of wind. Neither yet must it be too old and dry, for than it nourisheth nothing, drieth up the body, increaseth costiffness, 
Haly abbess 5. Theor.  and very hardly passeth from out the stomach.   

Of the use of Bread.  
Last of all, Concerning the use of Bread, it consisteth in the quality, quantity, and timely taking of it. The inmost crumbs of bread are most nourishing, and fittest for hot and choleric persons; chose the crumbs next the crust are fittest for phlegmatic dispositions, unto whom sometimes we allow the crust itself, or else the crumbs toasted at the fire. Leavened Bread is also most convenient for weak stomaches, because it is soon digested; but if it be too much Leavened, it anoieth them as much in gripe of the belly and spleen-swelling.  
It is questioned by some, Whether Children should eat much Bread without Meat, aut contra.  
Now Bread (so it be not newer than one day) is most nourshing, but old Bread (as I said before) is most drying.  
Concerning the quantity of Bread, we are to understand: that as Drink is necessary to hasten meat out of the stomach when it is concocted, so Bread is as needful to hang it up, and stay it in the stomach till it be concocted. For if we eat flesh, fish or fruit without Bread, it will either return upward (as it fareth in Dogs) or beget crudities and worms (as it happeneth to greedy Children) or turn to most cruel fluxes, as it falleth out in the Time of Vintage, and at the gathering of Fruit, when many Grapes, or Apples, or Plums be eaten without Bread.  
Nevertheless overmuch Bread is as hurtful, yea the surfeiting of it is more dangerous then of any meat. For flesh▪ fruit or fish, being immoderately taken, are quickly corrupted into a thin substance, which nature may easily avoid; but the surfeit of Bread is incorrigible, remaining so dry, hard, and tough in the stomach, that it will neither be voided upward, nor downward without great difficulty, resisting the operation of any medicine, stopping the veins, and daubing as it were the bowels (otherwise sensible enough, and ready to be stirred with the least Physic) with a slimy and viscous mortar. Eat therefore no more then to make a convenient mixture of meat and drink; for as there must be a sufficient quantity of sand to combine lime and water together; not too little (lest the mortar be too liquid) nor too much (lest it be tough) but a certain proportion to be aimed at by the Plasterer: so a due quantity of Bread maketh a perfect mass of nourishment, which else being too liquid would turn to crudities by passing over-timely into the guts, or being too thick would either putrify at length, or at the least wax burdensome to the stomach and choke the veins. Note also this, that the more liquid and moist your meats are, so much the more Bread is required: but the more dry and solid they are, the more Drink is to be taken and the less Bread.  

How and when Bread is to be eaten.  Last of all, to speak somewhat of the time, and order to be observed in the eating of Bread: Howsoever Antoninus that holy Emperor of Rome, did make his breakfast only of dry Bread, and then presented himself 
Sueton. in Vita Anton. Pli.  to all suitors till dinner time: we must conceive, first that he was Rheumatic through his night watchings and great studying. Secondly, that he was old and subject to the Dropsy: otherwise he was foolish to prescribe himself that Diet, or his Physicians mad that persuaded him to it. For as first lime, and then sand are mingled with water, so first Meat, than Bread should be eaten together, and afterward drink should be poured 
Cael l 27 c. 2●. antiq. lect.  on like water to mingle them both. Socrates said truly, that some fools do use Bread as Meat, and some use Meat as Bread. For some will break their fast with Bread, which commonly is dangerous: others will eat at Dinner a little Meat and too much Bread, which is almost as unwholesome: others will end their Meals with drink and meat, when reason and experience showeth, that the upper mouth of our stomach is best closed up with Bread and dryness; in the sealing and closing up whereof perfectness of concoction doth greatly consist.  

Cael. lib. 9 cap. 13. A. L.  Cyrus' the greater, being asked daily by his Stuard, what he should provide for his Supper, never gave him other answer then this, Only Bread: showing us thereby, that as our breakfast must be of the moistest meats, and our Dinners moderately mingled with dryness and moisture; so our Suppers should be either only of of Bread, or at the most of meats as dry as Bread; especially in these Islands and moist Countries, so subject to rheums and superfluous moistures.    

CHAP. XXVI.  
Of Salt, Sugar, and Spice.  

Plut. 4. Sympos quaest. 4.  THere was a sect of Philosophers called Elpistici, commending Hope so highly above all virtues, that they termed it the sauce of life; as without which our life were either none at all, or else very loathsome tedious and unsavoury. May I not in like manner say the like of 
Hom. 1. Iliad. Plat. in Timae▪  Salt▪ to which Homer giveth the title of Divinity, and Plato calleth it Jupiter's Minion? for tell me to what meat (be it flesh, fish or fruit) or to what broth Salt is not required, either to preserve season or relish the same? Nay bread the very staff and strength of our sustenance, is it not unwholesome, heavy and untoothsom some without Salt? Wherefore in the same Temple Neptune and Ceres ever stood together, because no Grain is good unsalted, be it never so well spiced or sugared, or otherwise artificially handled. Besides this, the famous Warriors in old time, accustomed to hard and sparing Diet, howsoever voluntarily they eschewed flesh and fish as meats too delicate for Soldier's stomaches, living only upon bread, onions, leeks, garlic, town-cresses and roots, yet they did eat Salt with every thing, as without the which nothing was deemed wholesome. And truly what is flesh but a piece of carrion and an unsavoury carcase, till Salt quickens graces and preserves it, infusing through out it (as it were) another soul? what is fish but an unrellished froth of the water, before Salt correcteth the flashiness thereof, and addeth firmness? yea milk, cheese, butter, eggs, tree-fruit, garden fruit, field-fruit, finally all things ordained and given for nourishment, are either altogether unwholesome without Salt, or at the least not so wholesome as otherwise they would be.  
Plutarch moveth a question in his Natural Disputations, 
lib. Quaest. not▪ Quaest. 5.  why Salt should be so much esteemed, when beasts and fruits give a relish of others tastes, but none of Salt? For many meats are fatty of themselves, Olives are bitterish, and many fruits are sweet, many sour, divers astringent, some sharp, and some harsh; but none are salt of their own nature: what should be gathered of this? that the use of salt is unnatural or unwholesome? nothing less. It is enough for nature to give us meat, and elsewhere to give us wherewith to season them. And truly sith Salt may either be found or made in all Countries, what needed fruit, flesh, or fish to have that taste within them, which out wardly was to be had at man's pleasure.  

Herot. lib. 2.  Now if any shall object unto me the Egyptian Priests, abstaining wholly from Salt (even in their bread & eggs) because it engendereth heat and stirreth up lust: Or Apollonius (Herophilus his Scholar) who by his Physicians 
Plut. in qu. nat.  counsel abstained wholly from any thing wherein Salt was, because he was very lean, and grew to be exceeding fat by eating hony-sops and sugared Panadoes: I will answer them many ways, and perhaps sufficiently.  
First, that long custom is a second nature, and that it had been dangerous for the Egyptian Priests to have eaten Salt, which even from their infancy they never tasted.  
Again, whereas it was said, that they abstained from it for fear of lust, no doubt they did wisely in it; for of all other things it is very effectual to stir up Venus, whom Poets fain therefore to have been breed in the Salt Sea. And experience teacheth, that Mice lying in Hoys laden from Rochel with Salt, breed thrice faster there, then if they were laden with other Merchandise. Huntsmen likewise and Shepherds seeing a slowness of lust in their Dogs and Cattle, feed them with Salt meats to hasten coupling; and what maketh Doves and Goats so lusty and lascivious, but that they desire to feed upon salt things? Finally remember, that lechery (in Latin) is not idly, or at adventure termed Salaritas, Saltishness; for every man knows that the salter our humours be, the more prone and inclinable we are to lechery: As manifestly appeareth in Lazars, whose blood being over salt, causeth a continual tickling and desire of venery, though for want of good nourishment they perform little.  
Wherefore whosoever coveteth to be freed of that desire with the Egyptian Priests (which is an unnatural thing to covet) let them altogether abstain from Salt in every thing; but look how much they gain in impotency that way, so much they lose of health another way. For as sheep feeding in salt Marshes never die of the rot and be never barren, but chose are rotten as well as fatted in fresh pastures: so likewise whosoever moderately useth Salt shall be freed of putrefaction and stops, and live long in health (no disorder being elsewhere committed) when they which wholly abstain from it both in bread and meat, shall fall into many diseases and grievous accidents, as did Apollonius himself for all his fatness; and as it happened to Dr. Penny, who after he had abstained certain years from Salt, fell into divers stops, cruel vomitings, intolerable headache and strange migrams, whereby his memory and all inward and outward senses were much weakened.  
Remember here, That I said whosoever moderately useth Salt; for as wholly to refuse it causeth many inconveniencies, so to abuse the same in excess is no less dangerous, engendering choler, drying up natural moisture, enflaming blood, stopping the veins, hardening the stone, gathering together viscous and crude humours, making sharpness of urine, consuming the flesh and fat of our bodies, breeding salacity and the colt evil, bringing finally upon us scabs, itch, scurf, cankers, gangrena's and foul leprousies. They which are cold, fat, waterish and phlegmatic, may feed more plentifully on salt and salt-meats than other persons: but choleric and melancholic complexions must use it more sparingly, and sanguineans must take no more of it, then lightly to relish their unsavoury meat.  
Our Wiches in Cheshire afford so good Salt (through God's singular Providence and mercy towards us) that I am eased of a great labour in showing the differences of salt. Only thus much I leave to be noted, that Bay-salt is best to make brine of, but our white salt is fittest to be eaten at table. Finally sith not only we in England, but also all other Nations, yea the old Romans and Grecians (as Pliny and Alexander remember) placed Salt ever first at the Table, and took it last away (insinuating thereby the necessary use thereof with all kinds of meats) let us conclude with the Scholars of Salern, in good rhyme and better reason. 
Sal primo debet poni, non primo reponi,  
Omnis mensa male ponitur absque sale.   
Here I might speak of Sal Sacerdotale Aetii, called the Priest's Salt, mingled with many sweet herbs and spices to preserve meats: as also of Chemical Salts drawn from wormwood, cinnamon, cloves, guajacum and other infinite simples; but sith they are rather medicinable then belonging to ordinary diet, I have reason to omit them.  
Now if any will marvel, why I should write thus much in the commendation of Salt, when by general consent of Writers it is not nourishing: I answer, That it is, and that not only accidentally, in making our meat more gracious to the stomach, hindering putrefaction, and drying up superfluous humours; but also essentially in itself, being taken in his just and due proportion. For our bodies hath and should have humours of all tastes; yea the firmest element of our body is nothing but Salt itself, and so termed by the best (though the newest) Philosophers; which will hardly be preserved without eating of Salt.  
Hence comes it that Soldiers, Sea▪ men and Country-labourers, accustomed to feed usually upon hanged▪ Beef, Salt-bacon, and salt fish, have a more firm flesh and greater strength then ordinary Citizens and dainty Gentlemen. And if Salt-meats (not over-salted) be generally held to give the best nourishment, why should we deny that Salt nourisheth?  
A Woman eating much salt when she is with Child, bringeth forth a Child without Nails.  
Salt in pottage is forbidden in hot agues.  
They which eat much Salt and Vinegar have burnt livers, and live unsound.  

Of Sugar.  
Sugar or Suchar is but a sweet, or (as the Ancients term it) an Indian Salt. The best Sugar is made of the tears or liquor of Sugar canes, replenished so with juice that they crack again. Other sorts are made of the Canes themselves finely cut, and boiled so long in water, till all their gumminess gather together at the bottom, as Salt doth in Cheshire at Nantwich. The best Sugar is hard, solid, light, exceeding white and sweet, glistering like snow, close and not spongy, melting (as salt doth) very speedily in any liquor. Such cometh from Madera in little loaves, of three or four pound weight apiece: from whence also we have a courser sort of Sugar-loves, weighing seven, eight, nine or ten pounds apiece, not fully so good for candying fruits, but better for syrups and Kitchen uses.  
Barbary and Canary Sugar is next to that, containing twelve, sixteen and seventeen l. weight in a loaf. But your common and course Sugar (called commonly St. Omers Sugar) is white without, and brown within, of a most gluish substance, altogether unfit for candying or preserving, but serving well enough for common syrups and seasoning of meat.  
Of the powder of which Sugar our cunning Refiners make such white and glorious Sugar in show, that albeit it be neither sweet, light nor kindly, yet they feel an unspeakable sweetness by that art, or rather trade, or rather mystery, or rather (if I am not mistaken) flat cozenage and apparent knavery.  
Concerning the uses of this worthy and sweet Salt; they are many and good. For whereas honey is hurtful to choleric complexions, Sugar is incommodious or hurtful unto none; yea it is so mild and temperate, that 
lib. 8. cap. 4. meth. med.  Galen doth not disallow it to be given in agues. Furthermore it nourisheth very plentifully, yea it maketh many things to become exceeding good meat (by conditing, preserving and conserving) as Citrons, Lemons, Oranges, Nutmegs, Ginger & such like, which of their own nature do rather hinder nourishment and procure leanness. Besides this, it delighteth the stomach, pleaseth the blood and liver, cleanseth the breast, restoreth the lungs (especially being candied) taketh away hoarseness, and assuageth drought in all agues, giving also no small ease to inflamed kidneys, and to bladders molested with sharpness of urine.  
Sugar keepeth Children from engendering of worms, but being engendered, maketh them stir.  
It were infinite to rehearse the necessary use of it in making of good jellies, culliss, mortesses, white-broths, and restorative pies and mixtures: which sith cooks do and ought chiefly to practice, I will not further usurp upon their province; only say, Sugar never marred sauce.   

Of Spices.  
Spices are properly called such sweet and odoriferous simples, as are taken from trees, shrubs, herbs, or plants; whereof some are growing in England or home▪ bred, others fetched from far Countries, called Outlandish spices.  
Homebred spices are these, Aniseed, Dill, Fennel-seed, Alcost, Commin, Caraways, Clary, Corianders, dried Mints, dried Nep, dried Origanum, Parsly-seed, dried Gillyflowers, roots of Galinga and Orris, dried Primroses▪ Pennirial, Rosemary, Saffron, Sage, Oak of jerusalem Bay berries, juniper-berries, Sothernwood, tansy, Tamarisk, Time, dried Walflowers, Violets, Varvein, Wintersavory, Wormwood, and such like.  
Outlandish Spices are these chiefly, Lignum Aloes, Foleum Indicum, Cinnamon, Ginger, Mace, Cloves, Pepper, Nutmegs, Pills of Citrons, Lemons and Oranges, Grains, Cubebs, and Saunders, etc. which being no nourishment of themselves, and serving only to Physic uses, I rather ought to send you to the Herbals of Lobelius, Dodonaeus, Clusius, Turner, and Bauhinus, (where at large you may hear of their virtues) then to stand here upon them any longer in my Treatise of nourishments. Wherefore let it be sufficient for me to have set down their temperatures in the fifth Chapter of this Treatise; and now let me proceed to discourse of Sauces: wherein (as occasion serveth) I will somewhat enlarge my Treatise of Spices, which I might have handled in this Chapter.    

CHAP. XXVII.  
Of the necessary use and abuse of Sauces, and whereon they consist.  

Sym. ●. quae. 4.  PLutarch boldly affirmeth that the Ancients knew never any sauces but two, Hunger and Salt: calling that the night, and this the light of sauces: for as in the night all colours be alike, so nothing is unsavoury to a hungry stomach: and as the light discerneth colours, so salt showeth the variety and excellency of all tastes. Proof hereof we have usually at our Tables, where having tasted of vinegar or sour fruit, or eaten much sweet meats▪ the best wine is presently distasted after it, and the goodness thereof undiscerned till a little salt be eaten.  
Concerning Hunger, I yield unto Plutarch, for without that even salt and vinegar and every thing is unsavoury, according as it is written of the Cooks of Athens; 
Cael. lib. 13. cap 25. A. L.  who vaunting by their divers pickles, sauces, powders and mixtures to procure any man an appetite, yet in the end they found it true, that the best sauce is loathsome without hunger. Dionysius also supping once (after 
Plut. in Coron.  Hunting) with the Lacedæmonians, most highly extolled their black-broth; afterwards eating of the same another time, without exercise premised, he did as deeply dispraise it.  

lib. de oped. civ.  The like we read of Ptolemy in Platina, and of Socrates in Tully's Tusculans, who walked ever before Meat a mile or two, to buy him this sauce of hunger Anacharsis 
Plut. de sal. vict rat.  was wont to say, that dry ground is the best Bed, a skin hardened with exercise the best garment, and natural hunger the best sauce: which addition of this word natural cleareth the question; for overmuch hunger tasteth nothing better than overmuch satiety, the one loathing good things because of fullness, the other commending bad things because of emptiness.  
As for Salt, the second sauce of the Ancients, I have already enough commended it in the former Chapter: nevertheless it is not sufficient, nay it is not convenient for all stomaches. For even old times afforded two sauces, Salt and Vinegar, the one for hot stomaches, the other for cold, knowing well enough that appetites are not procured in all men alike, because want of appetite ariseth from divers fountains.  

lib. de tuen. san  Plutarch raileth mightily against sauces and seasonnings, avouching them to be needless to healthful persons, and unprofitable to the sick, because they never eat but when they are hungry, and these ought not to be made hungry, lest they oppress nature by eating too much. But I deny both his arguments; for as many sound men abhor divers things in their health roasted, which they love sodden; so likewise they love some things seasoned after one fashion, which seasoned or sauced after another fashion they cannot abide, no though they be urged unto it by great hunger.  
As for them that be sick, whosoever dreameth, that no sick man should be alured to meat by delightful and pleasant sauces, seemeth as froward and fantastical as he that would never whet his Knife. And tell me I pray you, why hath nature brought forth such variety of herbs, roots, fruits, spices and juices fit for nothing but sauces, but that by them the sound should be refreshed, and the sick men alured to feed upon meat? for whom an overstraite abstinence is as dangerous, as fullness and satiety is inconvenient.  
All which I write, not to tickle the Epicures of our age, who to the further craming of their filthy corpse, make curious sauces for every meat; or to force appetite daily where no exercise is used: for as Morris-dancers at Burials make no sport, but rather give cause of further lamenting; so appetites continually forced weaken a diseased stomach, either making men for a time to eat more than they should, or else afterwards bereaving them of all appetite. Socrates' compared the 
Plut▪ de san. tu.  overcurious seasoning of meat, and these Epicurean sawce-makers to common Courtesans curiously painted and sumptuously adorned, before they entertain their lovers; whereby they stir up new lust in withered stocks, and make even the gray-headed spend and consume themselves. Even so (saith he) these new found sauces, what are they but Whores to edge our appetite, making us to feast when we should fast, or at least to feed more than nature willeth? Also he resembleth them to tickling under the sides and armpits, which causeth not a true & hearty, but rather a convulsive and hurtful laughter, doing no more good to pensive persons, then hard scratching is profitable to a scald head, wherein yet it delighteth to his own hurt.  

Plut. de sal. Diaet.  There is a notable History written of Alexander and Queen Ada, who purposing to present the Conqueror with her best jewels, sent him two of her best sawce-makers, to season and dress his meat, commending their skill exceedingly in her Letters: But Alexander having bountifully rewarded them for their travail, returned them with this message, that he had along time entertained two for that purpose, which made him better sauce to his meat, than any other could make in his judgement; namely, Nyctoporia Night-marching, who ever got him a stomach to his Dinner, and Oligaristia littledining, who ever procured him a stomach to his Supper. Showing thereby that exercise before Dinner and Supper are the best sawce-makers, because they bring forth hunger, which tasteth (yea which causeth us also to digest) all things.  
And verily for strong and able persons, what need we prescribe more sauces than exercise and hunger? Nevertheless because many men's trade of life, and estate of health is such, that either they cannot exercise themselves abroad, or else are not able thorugh weakness to do it at home (whereupon want of appetite and want of digestion, the only founders of sauces must ensue) it will not be amiss to set down some simples, which may be the matter of sauces for both those inconveniencies.  

The most usual and best simples whereof Sauces are made.  
If the stomach want appetite, by reason of cold and raw humours furring the same, and dulling the sense of feeling in the mouth thereof.   

Hot Sauces.  
Make sauce of Dill, fennel, mints, origanum, parsley, dried gillyflowers, galinga, mustardseed, garlic, onions, leeks, juniper-berries, sage, time, varvein, betony, salt, cinnamon, ginger, mace, cloves, nutmegs, pepper, pills of citrons, lemons and oranges, grains, cubebs, and such like, mingle some one, two, or three of them together, according as occasion most requireth, with wine or vinegar, strong of rosemary or gillyflowers.   

Cold Sauces.  
chose wanteth your stomach appetite, through abundance of choler, or adust and putrified phlegm? then restore it with sauces made of sorrel, lettuce, spinach, purslane, or sanders; mingled with vinegar, verjuice, cider, alegar, or water itself, or with the pulp of prunes, apples, currens and such like.  
As for digestion, it waxeth slow and weak, either because the stomach is too cold, or because the meat is of bad digestion which is put into it.   

Sauces for slow digestion.  
Cold stomaches must be quickened with sauces hot of spice; and meats hard of digestion must be helped with hot things: therefore I commend the use of mustard with beef, and all kind of salted flesh and fish; and onion-saw with Duck, Widgin, Teal, and all water Foul; salt and pepper with Venison, and galinga sauce with the flesh of Cygnets; and garlic or onions boiled in milk with a stubble Goose; sugar and mustard with red Deer, Crane, Shovelar and Bustard.   

Sauces for temperate Meats.  
But for temperate Meats and speedy of digestion (as Pork, Mutton, Lamb, Veal, Kid, Hen, Capon, Pullet, Chicken, Rabbit, Partridge, Pheasant, etc.) we must likewise devise temperate sauces: as mustard and green-sawce for Pork,▪ verjuice and salt for Mutton; the juice of Oranges or Lemons with wine, salt and sugar for Capons, Pheasants and Partridges; water and pepper for Woodcocks; vinegar and butter, or the gravet of roasted meat with Rabbits, Pigeons or Chickens; for if their sauces should be either too cold, or too hot, such meats would soon corrupt in our stomaches, being otherwise most nourishing of their own nature. As for the just quantity and proportion of every thing belonging unto sauces and pickles, albeit Apicius took great pains 
Plin. li●. 8. & lib 9 not hist.  therein, writing whole volumes of that argument, yet few of those sauces agreed with most men's natures, and some of them perhaps (if we might peruse those books) were grounded upon little or no reason; wherefore I leave the directing of them to particular Cooks, who by experience can best aim at every man's appetite, and know also sufficiently how to correct that flesh by Artificial preparation and appropriated sauce, which nature hath made queasy or heavy to indifferent stomaches.  
Some have put the question, Whether there be any sauce but appetite? or whether it be good to use sauces?    

CHAP. XXVIII.  
Of Variety of Meats, that it is necessary and convenient.  
PHilo a most excellent Physician having invited Philinus to Supper, entertained him with all kind of fowl, fish and fruit, killing also as many beasts, as if he had purposed to celebrate an Hecatomb: But his eloquent guest (for he was counted the best Councillor at the Bar of Athens) either to reprove his Friend, or to try his Oratory, accused him at the Table of a double trespass, the one against himself, the other against nature. Against himself, because he alured him to surfeit by variety of dishes: against nature, because nature teacheth us to feed but upon meat, and yet Philo himself did 
Hip. in jure jur  feed upon many. But tell me Philinus (for I am a Physician likewise, and sworn to defend my Teachers no less than my Parents) how is it an unnatural thing to feed 
Objections against variety of meats.  upon many dishes? Marry (saith he) nature teacheth us to feed upon that which will make us to remain longest in life and health; wherefore if we would feed as beasts do upon some one thing, we should outlive them; whereas now through our variety of dishes they outlive us.  
Again; do not you Physicians (being but Nature's Ministers) dissuade men in agues from diversity of meats, bringing unto them only some one dish of a Chicken or Rabbit simply roasted or boiled, neither smelling nor tasting of any mixture, nor marred, or infected with variety of sauces? Furthermore doth not the Dyer's Art instruct us, no colour to keep so long in cloth or silk, as that which is made by one simple? And is not the sweetest oil marred by mingling, which being kept alone by itself would be ever fragrant? even so fareth it likewise in meats, for any one meat of an indifferent constitution will be easily concocted, when many strive so one with another, whether of them shall go out foremost into the guts, that one stayeth too long and is corrupted, whilst the other is not half changed.  
And tell me Philo; why should it not be in meats as it is in wines? doth not variety of wines make bad distribution, and cause drunkenness sooner than if we kept to one wine? no doubt it doth; else had the Law contra Allaenias been frivolous and vain, precisely forbidding Vintners and Waiters at the Table to mix one wine with another. Musicians likewise by tuning all their instruments into one harmony, plainly show what hurt cometh by inequality and change of things. Socrates was wont to say (whom the great Oracle of Apollo hath crowned for the wisest Grecian) that variety of meats is like a common house of Courtesans, which with variety of faces, trickings and dress rather empty than fill up Venus' Treasury, kindling rather a flame to consume our lust, then giving a gentle heat to conserve our lives. Wherefore when the jars of crowders shall be thought good music, and mingled wines allowed for wholesomeness, and whorish allurements taken for preservers of life; then will I also confess variety of dishes to be tolerable, and that one man at once may taste and feed safely of many dishes. In the mean time let me still commend the old Romans, who judged as ill of common 
Cael. lib. 9 cap. antiq. lect. La. in vita Dio.  Feasters, as of them which erected a bawdy-house: and give me leave to imitate Plato, who at a great feast fed on nothing but Olives, thinking one dish most wholesome where many are.  

Other Objections against Variety of Meats.  
Thus much said Philinus against Philo, as Plutarch writeth: whose Arguments I will then answer in order, when I have first given a further strength to his assertion, by other proofs and authorities that himself perhaps did never dream of, namely these.  

Cael. lib. 7. cap. 11. antiq. lect.  Rogatianus a noble Senator of Rome, having spent much money in Physic to no good purpose, fed afterwards (by his Friend's advice) never but upon one dish: whereby he was quit of his grief for many years. Epicurus also placing all felicity in health and pleasure, fed but sparingly 
Alex. ab Alex. lib. 3 cap. 11.  and simply upon one dish, were it roots, apples, pears, plums or puls-pottadge (for he never eat fish nor flesh) also he did eat but one kind of Bread, and never drank but one sort of drink, were it wine or water. jovinianus 
Corrozetus de dict. & fact. memor.  Pontanus being asked, why he never fed but upon one dish: I abstain (said he) from many meats, that many, nay that all Physicians may abstain from me.  
A Cook in Lacon being bidden by his Master to dress 
Plut. in Lac. Quest.  him a piece of flesh; he asked of him Cheese and Oil to make the sauce; to whom his Master answered: away fool, away; if I had either Cheese or Oil, what needed I to have bought a piece of flesh? whereby we perceive that in old times men fed only upon one dish, thinking it folly to kill hunger with many meats, when it may be killed with one.  
Epaminondas also being invited to a friends house, seeing their variety of dishes, departed with these flouting 
Plut in apo. thegm.  speeches: I will not trouble thee, for I see thou art sacrificing to the Gods, not making a dinner to thy friend. And yet the tables of the ancient Gods (being but indeed Devils) had no great variety upon them: For when the Athenians did celebrate the great festivals 
Athen. l. 4. c. 3.  of Castor and Pollux, their dishes were only these, Cheese, Mace, Olives and Leeks; afterwards when Solon (to imitate Agamemnon's example in Homer) added a Spice-cake, he was rather counted a giver of ill precedents to men, than any whit the more bountiful to the 
Plin. l. 19 c. 4▪  Gods.  
The like may we say of the Romans, who offered first to their Gods no flesh nor fish, but a little Orchard and Garden-fruit; and of the Egyptians whilst the 
Sab. l. 8. suppl▪ ●ov. l. 33. hist.  Mameluks ruled over them; and of the Carthaginians, whose famous quaternal Feast consisted only of four dishes, Dry-figs, Ripe-dates, green-leeks, and sour milk. Nay to come nearer to our own selves, the Scots (●our fellow-Islanders and northern-countrymen) 
Hect. Both. in histor. Scot  beginning the morning with a slender breakfast, did in old times fast till Supper, feeding then but only of one dish, using generally so temperate a diet, that not Judges and Kings, but Philosophers and Physicians seemed to have given them precepts; what need I remember, That Moschus Antimolus the great Sophister lived 
Alex. ab. Alex. lib. 3. cap, 11. Athen. l. 10. c. 4 Mar. l. ●. dec. 1. Plin. l. 11. c. 4●.  all his life time only with figs, Stilpo only with garlic, Saint Genovefue the holy maid of Paris five and thirty years only with Beans, and Zoroaster (that silverheaded Nestor) twenty years in the wilderness only with Cheese? or that the Kings of Egypt fed never upon 
Diod. lib. 1. c. 6.  more meats, than either Veal or Goslings? whereby we may understand that with one dish men lived a long and healthful life, and that variety of diseases sprang first from confusion and variety of meats. It is written 
Alex. ab Alex. lib▪ 5 cap. 21.  of the Romans, that whilst their greatest feasts had but three dishes, the people were sound, healthful and sober; but when Augustus the Emperor brought in three more, and permitted the Romans to have three in their houses, and six in their temple-feasts, his riot is said to have corrupted Rome and brought in Physic. Also whilst the 
Plin. l. 8. ca 50.  Laconians had little dishes and little tables, so that they could neither have many guests, nor much meat at their board, thrift, wealth and health embraced one another; afterwards all went to ruin when variety of dishes were admitted their boards enlarged, and after-courses induced 
Valer. Max.  by the jonians. The people of Lituania were very frugal, laborious and healthful saith Aeneas Silvius, 
2. come. in Pan.  till Switrigalus made them exceed by his own example, who had no fewer than a hundred and thirty dishes at a meal: whereupon his own life, and the happy estate of his subjects was soon shortened. What should I stand upon the Romans riot in Antoninus Geta, 
Read.  Commodus (Adrian's Son) Vitellius and Heliogabulus, 
Plin. l 8 ca 57 Sabel. lib. 4. ●nead. 7. Cael. lib. 8 ca 7. A. L. Spar. in vita Ge●ae.  their dominions and times of governing the Empire? when Dormice, timber-worms and snails were served for dainties; when the livers of great fishes, the brains of Pheasants and young Peacocks, the kernels of Lampreys (brought by flyboats and light-horsemen out of Spain to Rome) when infinite numbers of nightingales tongues, the brawns of Kings-fishers, Pheasants-Combs, Peacocks-Gizards, and Wrens-livers, were made altogether into one Pie: when finally three courses came daily to Geta his board, and as many dishes at each course as there be letters in the Alphabet. But what followed? Marry infinite diseases, and infinite Physicians; whereof some were so ignorant that they tormented the people worse than sickness; in such sort that Galen, Herophilus, Erasistratus, and divers Greek Physicians were sent for to recover them, languishing and consumed almost with fevers, whereinto through excess and variety of meats they were justly fallen.  
So likewise fell it out with the Israelites, who in the wilderness longed first for the fish of Egypt, then for cucumbers, pompions, leeks, garlic and onions. Then being fed with Manna from heaven, they loathed it because it was but one meat. East of all Quails came down, yet were they never satisfied with one meat were it never so good, coveting still change and variety were it never so bad: wherein both they and we show plainly from what root we are first sprung. For when our first Parents might eat of all trees and fruits in Paradise, yet the show, lure and desire of variety made them touch and taste the unbidden fruit. After the flood when flesh, fish and fruit were permitted to be indifferently eaten, and blood and fat only forbidden yet we gather up the blood and fat of beasts to make us puddings, and abstain not (for recovery of consumptions) to suck the hot leaping and vital blood out of one another's veins. Neither are we contented to feed (as wise men should do) upon wholesome meats, but we mingle with them venison of wild bears, the flesh of scabby Cuckoos, the spawn of Whales, Sturgians and Tunnies, and other very loathsome things, only for variety's sake and delight of change. Licinius though he fed upon many dishes, yet he must end his meals with a Lamprey-pye. Lucius never supped without Oysters, nor Sergius without a Dorry: whereupon they were justly nicked by these names, Licinius Lamprey, Sergius Dorry, and Lucius Oisterman.  
Thus im-borne impiety engrafted by propagation from Adam and Eve, hath made us to lose the desire of unity in all things; coveting variety of meats, drinks and women, yea of Gods and religion; never contented with what is given for our good, but desirous of that which we snatch for our own hurt.   

An apology for variety of meats, answering the former objections.  
Hitherto I have spoken much from Philinus own mouth, and more from mine own in his behalf, to oppugn the variety of meats: now read I pray you with the like patience, How I shall defend Philo against Philinus, and prove apparently that variety of meats is both at board, and in our stomaches, most agreeable to nature, and consequently beneficial to maintain us in health.  
First therefore Philinus abused our ears, in saying that all beasts feed only upon some one kind of meat: For Eupolides his goats, yea and ours to, feed upon time, mints, hyssop, heath, ivy, oaken buds, beech, ash, mullen, chervil and tamarisk, and many other herbs differing no less in taste, smell, substance, and virtue one from another. What Shepherd is ignorant, that his flock feedeth upon filipendula, daisies, mouseare, cowslaps, lambs-tongue, milk-wort, Saxifrage and little mullen? yet work they no worse effect in their stomaches, then if they had only been fed with grass; what should I speak of the Ostrich, which devoureth iron and pap together, and refuseth no meat, unless men had also an Ostriches stomach? Only let him serve to disprove Philinus avouching all beasts and birds to tie themselves as it were to one meat, and not to eat at once of divers nourishments.  
Secondly where it was affirmed, that brute beasts and birds out live men, because they are of a simpler diet; I must pardon Philinus being a heathen, and ignorant of the Scriptures: wherein Methusalem and divers patriarchs are registered to have lived longer, than any beast or bird whatsoever, called fitly of Homer by the name of Mortals, as upon whom more rots, murrens, aches, diseases 
Iliad. 1.  and plagues do light, then usually happen unto men. Nay go to your Raven and Stag, those longestlivers of all the unreasonable breathers; feeds not the Raven upon all flesh, eats not the Stag of all herbs, boughs and mast that comes in his way? ye feedeth he not some times upon Snakes and Adders?  
Thirdly, the Physicians giving of simple meats to aguish persons, proveth no more that variety is not good for most men, then that because Thersites can hardly carry his single spear, therefore Agamemnon shall not put on his complete armour.  
Fourthly, the sedition and tumults foolishly feared, and rashly presupposed to be in meats of divers kinds, afflicting the stomach either at the time of concoction or digestion, that reason of all other is most unreasonable. For who would or can imagine, that Man the Epitome or Abstract of the whole world, in whom something of every thing (to speak Platonically and yet truly) is placed and inserted, could live ever, or long in health without variety of meats? Hypocrates seeing such variety of simples rooted, sprouted and quickened upon the earth, gathereth thereupon very truly and learnedly, that there lie hidden in the earth all kinds of tastes, smells, liquors, and heats, and that it is not (as some imagine) a dry and cold dust, void of all taste, heat and moisture.  
Much more than may I justly avouch, that many meats may and do best agree with most men's stomaches, in whose bodies not only firm flesh, but also thin blood, sweet phlegm, bitter gall, and sourish melancholy is necessary to be preserved: wherefore let hot meats, cold meats, moist meats, dry meats, bitter, meats, salt meats, light meats and heavy meats be mingled together in an indifferent stomach (so that they be well prepared, orderly taken, and no error committed in time, measure and quantity) no sedition or tumult will arise, no not so much as if the stomach had taken but one meat; for (according to that Oeconomical distribution of Empedocles)  

Sweet straightway will itself to sweet apply,  
Sharp runs to sharp, with gall doth bitter lie,  
Hot drinks and meats to fiery parts ascend,  
Whilst cold and moist to watery members tend.   
An no marvel, considering that natural heat (like a good Stuard) dissolveth the mass into a creamy substance, running through all himself, that he may give unto all their due nourishment. Wherefore sith this little world of ours was created full of variety, why should we tie our stomaches only to fruit, fish, or flesh, when God in his goodness hath given us all of them?  
Nay furthermore, sith man can digest more sorts of meats, stones and mettles (being rightly prepared) then either the Goat, Raven, or Ostrich, why should his power be bridled by any unnatural Edict, proceeding rather from the brain of a senseless head, then from the deep and mature judgement of any Physician? for sense teacheth us, that most compound bodies must feed upon divers meats, and that not variety but satiety, not quality but quantity, not simple taking, but unorderly taking of them, (out of time, out of season, and out of their due place and proportion) causeth that dissension and tumult in our bellies, whence all manner of dislikings or discontentments 
Lib. 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉.  arise, and at which (to use Hypocrates his words) 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, Nature is distracted, troubled and (as it were) ●gnasheth her teeth.  
As for that Simile of Dyer's, and the other of Sweetoil, and the third of Music; they are all more childish, then worthy of an answer.  
For simple colours (as white and black) are not the purest, for then the skies should bear them; yea the purest jewels give most variety of colours and lights in their own kind. And whereas cloth died with some one simple keepeth longest his colour in Philinus opinion, it is little material if it were true; considering meat is not given to die our bodies, but to be transformed into our substance.  
Again, though a sweet oil keepeth best his scent and perfection whilst it is unmingled, yet that disproveth not the necessity of mixtures, for whose sake simples were no less created, than Consonants and Vowels appointed to bring forth syllables: wherefore I laugh whilst others praise and extol, Guevarraes' folly, who like another Erasistratus (whom he Apishly followeth in 
Guevarra in his Epistles.  many points) complaineth of compound medicines, reducing all kind of agues to be cured with a plain Ptisan, a thin Cucumber milk, and a little water and oil mingled together. Foolish Bishop I deride thy ignorance, because thou deservest not to be pitied deriding others. Go to the little Bee, thou great Idiot; and tell me if thou canst number, out of how many flowers honey is made. Hony I say, the sweetest meat, and best medicine 
Isaac. Belg. lib. de quint. mell. essent.  of all others, yea the very quintessence (as Isaac the Netherlander writeth) and refined marrow of infinite wholesome and good vegetables. Can that imperfect Creature perfectly convert so many divers juices into one sovereign meat, and may not man (the perfectest creature of all others) do the like in his stomach, when he feedeth of many good and wholesome dishes? As for Socrates his comparison (whom Apollo himself termed the Prince of Sages) I answer thus,  
What though variety be to the stomach, as choice of fair women in a Weak man's eye, causing more strong an appetite than reason or nature would? By the same argument we might as well reprove cleanliness in handling, skill in seasoning, and handsomeness or neatness in serving in our meats; because when these concur we feed more largely; which if it be a fault, let Philinus hereafter eat bread made of meal which was never bolted; and parsneps and radish never washed nor scraped; let him eat of boiled meat that was never scummed, and of 
Cael. lib. 6. ant. lect.  dry, lean birds (such as Q. Curtius threw out at the window) never basted, and of bitter Feldefares never drawn.  
But I (and all wise men with me) will consider, that as honesty and delight may be matched together, so cleanliness and variety is no hindrance to a good stomach or good digestion, but rather an help and friend to both. Nay it fareth with our stomaches as it doth with Sailors; who can easily pull in the sheet when they have too much wind, but cannot enlarge it when they have too little: for so likewise it is a small labour or cunning to kill appetite by only seeing and feeding upon one dish, but to revive it being extinguished, or to sharpen it being dulled, requireth no little art, and consisteth chiefly in variety and well dressing of meats.  
Item to answer in a word, the law contra Alloenias; I grant the thing, but I deny the equity: for what greater reason have we to mingle wine and water (which was never forbidden but at drunken feasts) then to mingle a tart wine with a pleasant, a temperate wine with a hot Sack, and a scowrer (when occasion persuadeth) with Alegant or a harsh binder? therefore to return Philinus his own Sword into his own bosom: as it is not unlawful (by the law of reason and nature) nay as it is necessary and expedient to mingle wines for some persons: so variety of meats taken orderly at one meal, are lawful, necessary and expedient.  
Moreover (to beat him again with his own Similes) I confess all instruments of music to be tuned to one Harmony: but being so tuned, if the Musicians play ever (like the Cuckoo) but one Song, will not the ear and head be wearied and offended? nay will they not in time be both sick? Can the eye see at once many objects, the ears hear many instruments playing together, & (Philinus) shall not the stomach as well concoct, keep and digest for the body many meats? but when reason faileth, thou hast almost daunted Philo with inartificial arguments, drawn from antiquity, examples, customs, and sanctions of Senators.  
Now if by the like arguments I confirm Variety, I doubt not but like a Scholar I may cry quittance▪ but if furthermore I confute thy Authorities, as being either falsified or unaptly applied, thou shalt live in my debt till the next Audit.  
Wherefore to begin with Rogatianus, albeit for many years he was delivered of the gout, yet Caelius avoucheth not that he was perfectly cured. And Epicurus though he fed but upon one dish at a meal, yet perhaps at every meal he fed on a several dish. Pontanus also was a weak and sickly man, to whom I confess many dishes (especially being of contrary kinds or qualities) are not to be permitted. Neither doth the Gentleman's answer in Lacon prove more the use then of one dish at a meal, than his Cook's demand inferreth the use and mingling of many meats. But if by the few dishes upon the altars of heathen Gods, thou thinkest to prove that men at home feed only upon one meat, thou art much deceived, for hereafter I will plainly demonstrate that they fed on many. As for the old Scotish custom, suppose it were true; yet sure I am, that since King Arthur's days who lived years before Christ, their own 
Hect. Both. l. 9 Scot hist.  Chronicler recordeth them to have used great variety of 
Alex. l. 3. c. 11.  dishes. That Moschus Antimolus lived only with figs, it is no great marvel when he hated from his cradle 
Athen. l. 10. c. 4  all other meat. Stilpo also fed only on garlic, because his poverty was such that he could buy nothing else. As for Genovefue the holy made of Paris; albeit 
Marul. lib. 1. decad. 1.  I suspect Marulus for a common liar, yet he saith, that her feeding so long upon one dish consumed her body, and that upon the Bishop's licence she was enforced to 
Plin. l. 11. c▪ 42▪  eat milk in Lent. Zoroaster was no doubt a most learned Philosopher, who if he lived twenty years in the Wilderness only with one Cheese, no doubt it was some great Cheese like to Parmesan, full of variety, and not made of one but many milks. As for the monstrous riot of the jonians, Lituanians, and latter Romans, drawn from the example and imitation of those wicked Princes and Emperors: I detest and abhor it as much as Philinus, ascribing unto excessive variety as many mischiefs of body and mind; as temperate variety brings profit, health, refresh and pleasures to them 
Numb. 11.  both. The Jews murmuring doth as little please me, for though nature told them that one meat could not conveniently nourish every man, especially such as were accustomed forty years together in Egypt to feed diversty; yet when every man felt that one meat sent by God, did miraculously preserve man, woman and child, agreeing with all ages, times, persons and complexions, they ought to have been contented; being as perfectly nourished with one dish, as any of us can be with many.  
Last of all, that example of Adam and Eve is most violently wrested against variety, whereas rather it is an argument against unity: for suppose they had at once tasted of all fruits in the garden, could they have been sick upon it? no verily, but the tasting of one alone (I mean the forbidden one) was the parent and author of all diseases: wherefore the variety of wholesome meats set down by Physicians are not offensive, when one dish forbidden may prove dangerous: as I could prove by many reasons, did not experience clear it with her sunshine.  
Now to answer examples also with examples; though the Kings of Egypt had no great variety of dishes, yet that they ever fed on two at the least, Diodorus Siculus 
Lib. 1. c. 6.  reports. And if the old Romans fed not diversely, why 
Alex l. 5. c. 21.  had they usually three dishes at their table? The Persians though they had but few meats, yet they abounded in Salads and Junkets. The old Grecians chose, used much meat and few Junkets: yea I read that Plato himself when Socrates and Menippus supped 
Gell. l. 13. c. 11  with him, had six several dishes at his table (figs, peason, beans, whortleberries, roasted beech-nuts, and wafers in the end to close up their stomaches) whereof they all fed, saving that Menippus set aside the wafercakes with his hand, saying; that a sweet aftercourse makes a stinking breath: Another time I read, that Plato set before his loving friends and fellow Citizen's olives, herb-salades, divers kinds of flesh and fish, and last of all new Cheese; whereby any wiseman may gather, that the ancients fed upon many dishes of opposite kinds, and gratified their stomaches (which every man's stomach coveteth) with variety of meats. As for our own Nation (for whom chiefly I write this Treatise) Hector Boethius avoucheth, 
l. 9 Scot▪ hist▪  that English men from before King Arthur's days, were accustomed to feed much and very diversely. 
lib. 2. histor.  And Paulus jovius writeth thus. The whole nation of English men delight still (as ever they did heretofore) in feasting and making of good cheer, eating much meat and of many sorts, prolonging their sit with music and merryments, and afterwards sporting themselves in set dances.  
Wherefore sith we are naturally desirous of many meats, and have stomaches above all other Nations, able to digest them; and custom also hath confirmed our variety of dishes (which cannot even in bad things be suddenly altered without a mischief) I persuade strong and indifferent stomaches to continue their used Diet, feeding orderly and soberly of divers meats. Divers I say, but not too many; for I like not (Dubias Coenas) the doubtful feasts of Cardinal Wolsey, nor the Abbot of Glastenburies' Diet (who were served with so many sorts of dainties that one might stagger and doubt where first to begin his dinner) nor the ancient tables of London; where (as Diogenes said of Maronia) every Citizen's house (in a manner) was a cooks shop, till plenty of mouths made penury of provision, and dearth of Corn and Victuals lately taught them sobriety.  
Last of all where the Proverb saith, That many dishes make many diseases; it hurteth not our position and defence of variety: for not diversity but multitude offendeth our stomaches, that is to say, more diversity of meats than they can well abide: accordingly as much meat hurteth not concoction, but that which is overmuch taken in too great a quantity, whereof we are now to discourse in the next Chapter.  
As for variety of meats in the time of sickness, let us hear what Galen saith. Diversity of meats are as necessary in sickness (if it be a compound sickness) as variety of medicines. For a hot liver requireth a cooling meat, and a cold stomach that which is hot; and if a mixed disease have made a mixed distemperature in any part, there divers and compounds meats be of necessity required. Otherwise many meats (especially of contrary kind, substance and quality) are most hurtful and tumultuous. Com. in 1. de vict. rat. in ac. cap 3. & 3. de vict. rat. in ac. cap. 35. & primo in Eund. cap. 18 whereby we may easily perceive, that variety of meats is permitted sometimes to the sick, yea though it be joined with contrariety of kinds.    

CHAP. XXX  
Of the quantity of Meats.  
THat saying of the wiseman, Eat not too much honey, showeth unto us; that even the most wholesome and nourishing meat of all other will prove dangerous and hurtful to our health, if it be not soberly and measurably eaten. Temperancy being not only the carver, but also the commander at our tables.  
We find likewise several sayings recorded; as, That we must eat by reason and not by appetite; That straightgirding, makes little eating; That in time of Famine, though we desire most, satiety is most perilous; That in rainy weather little meat, little drink, and much exercise within doors is best; That melancholy persons eat much, Choleric drink much, Phelgmatick sleep much; Great Livers, great Eaters, that a lean Woman, is a Tavern of blood; That they which eat little, are never good Travellers. The Spaniard eats, the Germane drinks, and the English exceeds in both.  

Temperance what it is.  
But would you know what Temperancy is? It is a virtue, timely, moderately and comely using those things, which be truly necessary and natural. For some things be both necessary and natural without which we cannot live, as Meat and Drink; others natural but not necessary, without use of which many of us may live, and live in health, as Venus' game: others necessary but not natural, as strong exercises for some bodies: others neither natural nor necessary, as overcurious Cookery, making fine meat of a whetstone, and quelquechoses of unsavoury, nay of bad and unwholesome meat. There be two vices equally opposite to this virtue; Surfeiting, when a man eateth more than either his stomach can hold or his strength digest; and Self-pining, when we eat less than our nature craveth and is able to overcome.  
The first of them (namely surfeiting and excess) though it be a vice of all other most hurtful to the body and consequently noisome to the mind, yet we read that whole nations, and Emperors, and Potentates have both esteemed, and honoured and rewarded it for a virtue. 
Athen. l. 1. c. 1. In A●can.  For the Sicilians dedicated a Temple to Gluttony; and Aristophanes writeth thus of the Barbarians, 
〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉,  
〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉.  
Them only men Barbarians think,  
That can devour most meat and drink▪   
Of this crew was Maximinus the Emperor, who (like our old Abbey▪ lubbers) did eat till he sweat; yea 
l. 6. c. 10. en. 7.  Sabellicus affirmeth, that his one days sweat gathered up in goblets, did amount to the measure of six Sextaries. Claudius' Caesar and Vitellius the Emperor were 
Cael lib. 13. c. 2. A. L.  like unto him, eating commonly so much, that they were forced once or twice in a meal to go out and vomit; and then returned to the table again, giving a fresh charge to a forlorn stomach. And though Aurelianus the 
Flan. Vopisc.  Emperor fed moderately himself, yet he exceedingly loved and honoured a great Gourmand, who usually at one meal did eat a Hogg▪ two Weathers, and a whole Brawn, drinking upon it a whole firkin of wine poured down his throat through a funnel: Also Firmius 
Sabel. lib. 10. ex Capitolino.  Salencius did eat a whole Ostrich in a day: and Clodius Albinus (Commander for the Romans in France) is registered to have eaten at one sitting five hundred figs, one hundred Peaches, ten Musk-melons, twenty pound weight of Raisins of the Sun, one hundred Snites, ten Capons, and a hundred and fifty great Oysters.  
Neither was our Country always void of a Woolmar, who living (in my memory) in the Court, seemed like another Pandareus, of whom Antonius Liberalis writeth 
Ex Boet. in Ornithogon.  thus much, that he had obtained this gift of the Goddess Ceres; to eat Iron, glass, Oistershels, raw-fish, raw-flesh, raw-fruit (and whatsoever else he would put into his stomach) without offence; yea as Monica Augustine's Mother was given to excess of wine, so himself (such are even Godly men's imperfections at some times) confesseth his own proneness and inclination to riot, in these words. O Lord, thou hast taught me to use meat not for lust and wantonness, but for life and health. Nevertheless 
Aug l. 10. con.  when I sit down for refections sake, the snares of concupiscence and surfeit lie in my way like crafty fowlers, and the Maid presumeth above her Mistress; so that it is doubtful, whether Necessity or Riot be commander, and hardly can Iresist Riots desire, no though it afterwards bringeth me to great pain.  
And no marvel, Augustine; for from whence cometh soreness and weariness, heaviness of spirits, dulness of senses, stifness and pain of joints, unweldiness, belchings, crudities, fevers, distasting of meat, loss of appetite, and o her tempestuous evils, but from repletion, surfeiting and satiety? what weakness of body cometh by excess of eating; we need no more examples than this of our own Countrymen, which Boethius noteth (in his Scotish History) of King Arthur and his Knights; who having recovered York from the Saxons and Picts in spite of their beards, kept there such a grand Christmas, that afterwards fight again with the Saxons, his Soldiers were found so weakened with surfeiting, that their arrows could hardly pierce the Saxons fur d doublets, being able before to strike through their iron armour. What Scholar hath not read of Herodotus, the minstril of Megara (whose girdle in the waist was three yards and a half long) or of Milo Crotoniates that 
Athen l. 10▪ c.  great Pamphagus? yet they died both very weak men and young, by oppressing strong nature with too heavy burdens. I he Stoics imputed all diseases to age, but Erasistratus 
Pl●t in Gryll.  did not ill to ascribe, either all or most of them to excess: for if a man feed too much, three principal 
Marsil. Fici. de ●●end. stud sand.  discommodities arise thereof. First, all natural spirits leave their several stand, and run headlong to the stomach to perfect concoction; which if with all their forces they cannot perform, than brain and body are overmastered with heavy vapours and humours; but suppose they perform it, what followeth but foggy fat instead of flesh; or a the least, such abundance of both, that no sovereignty nor ability is left for the actions of the mind? which (as Menander well noteth in one of his Comedies.) 
Desireth not to play with Swine,  
Nor dwells in hogsheads full of wine.   
For Heracletus was of a right opinion, that the wisest soul dwelleth in the empty body; which we may partly illustrate by these examples. The moist eye seeth worst; the fullest vessel soundeth least, and the Sun hardly shineth through a cloudy air: Even so in a full and troubled body, overpeised with variety and plenty of meats, the eye of our mind must needs be darkened, the voice of reason cannot be heard, and the Sunshine of understanding cannot shine into our hearts, being destitute of will, and much more of ability to execute any thing that is good: Nay through surfeiting we live grovelling and groping after base delights, as Hogs do for Acorns, being disabled so much as to think a good thought.  
Hypocrates and Galen say, that the bodies of ordinary great feeders stand upon a dangerous point, or as you would say upon the Raysors edge; for if they feed moderately, alteration of custom hazards their health: if they persist in excess, they are suddenly strangled with Apoplexies, as Caelius hath well noted. 
Cael. lib. 17 ea. 11. A L.   
To prevent all which sicknesses both of body and mind, oh what severe and good laws were there made by 
Ma. sat. 3. c. 17.  Fannius Didius, Licinius Crassus, Cornelius Sylla, Lepidus, and Antius Restio against Riot? yet the concord of vices so prevailed, that lust continued excess, excess brought forth unruliness, unruliness contempt of Government, whence came fatal destruction to the Roman Monarchy.  

Hector. Boeth▪ hist. Scot  The Scots punished their belly-gods in this sort; first they filled their bellies as full of good meat as ever they could hold, than they gagged them, and threw them into the next river with their arms pinioned, saying; Now as thou hast eaten too much, so drink too much.  
Plutarch remembreth, that (by the Athenians law) whosoever did flay a living beast, he should be hanged as a Felon, because they would not have a beast tormented; which punishment if it were just (as it seemed just in Xenocrates opinion) than what pains ought they to endure, who by surfeiting not only torture, but also most unnaturally seek to kill themselves, making their graves with their own teeth, flaying and unskinning themselves as it were of reason's robe, yea ensouling their bodies (being dedicated Temples to the holy Ghost) as much as in them lieth with the form of swine?  
The second vice (namely Self-pining) is as far from Temperancy on the right hand, as surfeiting erreth on the left. SoZomenus maketh mention of a Monk in Caelosyria, 
Sozom. lib. 6. eccls hist. c. 34.  called Battheus, fasting voluntarily so long, till his teeth were full of worms. And in the Legendary, S. Francis, S. Bennet, S. Rainulph, and divers other men, maids and women are highly extolled for consuming their bodies with excessive abstinence; which being a thing against nature and Godliness (which forbiddeth us to scourge or mark, and much more to consume our bodies) it shall need no confutation at all, especially in this gluttonous age, wherein we are so far from any such fasting, that we wholly delight in Riot and Feasting. Only let me say thus much out of Hypocrates, that a very thin and precise Diet is not to be prescribed to any one of indifferent health and strength; no scarce to any (except their disease be exceeding sharp) which are very weak. For the prescribing of meat by drams or ounces, driveth many fears into a weak man's mind, taketh all alacrity from the heart, maketh▪ a man jealous of his own fingers, daring to eat nothing with cheerfulness, because he ever suspecteth that he eateth too much. Hence came that 
Hippoc.  golden Aphorism (though not registered in his Aphorisms) 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉! 
An over-yeelding lengtheneth the grief,  
But timely permission maketh it brief.   
As for Temperancy (which I can never enough reverence or commend) would to God it were as well practised of every particular man, as it is necessarily required to be in Physicians. First that by long life they may (with Galen and Hypocrates) get perfection in that art which they profess: whereas now many Physicians are buried under a Doctor's name, before they ever tasted of Hygea her cup, or saluted Panacea a far off. Secondly if they by surfeiting or fasting hurt their own bodies; how shall their doctrine be followed by their Patient, when it is broken and crossed by themselves?  

Xenoph. 1. Pae▪  The rude Persians are recorded to have ever fed so temperately, that to spit or blow their nose, was both execrable and punishable amongst them. Likewise they (as also the Romans) permitted any man to give him that yawned a blow on the ear; because spiting and snivelling and yawning, are only the fruits of fullness or idleness: Much more should learned Physicians moderate themselves, who give laws to others, and not rashly run into that excess, which even the savage Scythian and Persians ever abhorred.  

Athen. l. 2▪ c. 2.  It is also recorded of the Spanish Women, that a certain girdle is kept of some two foot long in every Town, which if any woman's belly exceeds in compass (unless it be by child-going) they are counted detestable and infamous: Let it be therefore a greater shame for us Physicians, by ill example to purchase our own discredit, and also to lessen our skill, and shorten our lives 
Cic. 3. Tusc.  as much as lieth in our own power: for Theophrastus' falsely accused nature, in that she gave long life to Ravens and Crows (whom it little profited) and but a short time to men, and the shortèst of all to Students, whom reason would have to live long for the mutual benefit one of another, and the public good of the Common-weal. More justly he might have accused men and Students themselves, for abridging their natural days by surfeiting and drunkenness, chambering and wantonness, excess and riot; considering that nature ever most preserveth and tendereth the most worthy creature, did it not destroy and ruinate itself.  
Timotheus having supped with Plato, and eaten (contrary to his custom) very moderately, slept very quiely that night, finding neither colic to awake him, nor belchings in the morning to annoy him; wherefore assoon as he awaked, he broke forth into this exclamation, with a loud voice: How sweet, how sweet are Plato's 
Marfil. Fie. de Sanit. stud. tu.  Suppers, which makes us in the night time to sleep, and in the morning to breathe so sweetly! Yea but (some will say) how shall we know when we have eaten enough? At whom Democritus would have laughed a month together, and perhaps have returned them this answer; Fools and Idiotes that you are, know you when your Horse and your Hawk and your Dog hath enough, and are you ignorant what measure to allow yourselves? who will urge his Horse to eat too much, or cram his Hawk till she be over gorged, or feed his Hound till his tail leave waving? and shall (man the measurer of Heaven and Earth) be ignorant how in Diet to measure the bigness signs or strength of his own stomach? knows he by signs when they are over filled; and is he ignorant of the signs of repletion in himself? namely of satiety, loathing, drowsiness, stiffness, weakness, weariness, heaviness and belching? Doth not every man know, that Enough consisteth not in filling the paunch, but in takeing sufficient to maintain nature, which no doubt is satisfied 

Plut. 4. sympo● clothe yourself warmly, and feed sparingly.  
Vesti te cal●o & mangia poco   with a little, as Solon said at the wiseman's feast, Summum, imo divinum bonum est nullo vesci alimento; proximum vero & naturale quod a minimo. It is (said Solon) the greatest, yea the divinest good thing of all other, to eat no meat: and the next unto that and most natural is, to feed as sparingly as may be.  
But can you not prescribe one certain measure or quantity fit for all men? no verily, for to prescribe to all men (or to one man at all times) one certain quantity of meat, were to make a coat for the Moon; which if either Jupiter her Father, or Latona her Mother could have done, they would long ere this with some robe or other have covered her inconstant body, increasing or decreasing every moment. And verily Hypocrates 
Hip. de. vet. me  hath truly written. The quantity of meats ought not to be appointed by weight, number nor measure; but by sense and ability of our stomaches: for some cannot digest much, others are offended at a little; others are not satisfied till their maw be filled, others have too much when it is half filled.  
It were strange to recite, what great store of meat some have eaten and others daily, do eat without offence; Aristotle in his Politics, calleth the Fencers and Wrestlers Diet of his time 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, a necessary Gourmandise; because through abundance of exercise (which consumeth spirits and humours) they were enforced to 
lib▪ 1. cap. 6. Cosmocrit.  eat both much and often. Nay Cornelius Gemma affirmeth, that he saw whilst he lived an aged woman, which from her infancy fed in excessive measure, eating something continually every hour, besides her ordinary meals of breakfast, dinner and supper, which were of an incredible quantity: In the end dying with abundance of fat and flesh (for the cawl of her belly weighed twenty pounds) they perceived all this to come from a peculiar and special temperature, called of the Grecians 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉: for her liver was greater and heavier than all the rest of her bowels laid together; exceeding red, and swelling with store of blood and wind. Surius and Bruyrinus, 
Sur. come. rer. in orb gest. B●u. lib. 3. de re cib. cap. 5. Schengh. lib. 3. obs▪ med.  and Schengkius tell of many others, who lived long in health though they fed excessively, having as it were an Ostriches stomach joined with a Dog's appetite.  
On the contrary side, some may as well live with hunger and long abstinence a great while, according as I have 
Hippolito lib▪ de ca  read in many Authors. Hypocrates thinketh, that if a man abstain from meat and drink seven days, he cannot escape death; yea when some afterwards were persuaded to eat, their meat never passed through them, because the hungry gut (called jejanum intestinum) was 
Plin. l. 11. c. 54 Athen. l. 2. Dip Alb. l. 7. de ani Alex. B. pract. lib. 12 c●p. 11 Jac. syl. Consil. contra famem.  by abstinence clung together. But Pliny saw the contrary, and Tinous Aunt lived two months together without meat or drink. Albertus, Alexander Benedictus, and jacobus Silvius, write yet of more strange and incredible abstinence both of men and women; which truly I would have registered amongst the lies of the golden Legend, 
joub dec. 1. ●a●ad●●▪ 2.  and the Abbot of Ursberg his Chronicles, had not William Rondeletius and honest joubertus written the like of a French gentlewoman, living almost three years without any sustenance of meat, bread, broth or drink; who afterwards was married and conceived a child, which she brougth well forth and happily alive: By all which amples we may easily gather, how absurd the fashion and custom was before Plutarch's time: when every man did 
Plut. 2. Symp.  not carve for himself, but was carved unto by another; and that (after the College fashion) so equally, that none had more or less than his fellows: which order howsoever it pleased Hagias the Sophister, because feasts in Greek are called Divisions, and the Masters of feasts Great Dividers, and Servants Carvers, and Moera and Lachesis (being the Goddesses of feast) were called so of equality of division; and that peace is maintained where equality is kept, and that Agamemnon's Soldiers (as Homer testifieth in sundry places) had every one alike measure and weight of victuals: yet (by his leave) neither is humanity therein observed, nor geometrical proportion kept, nor nature imitated. For tell me, what humanity can we call it, to give a man less than his stomach wanteth? what geometrical proportion is that, which giveth as much to the half-full, as the empty vessel? and how dare we prescribe one quantity to all, when men's stomaches be as divers in quantity of receipt and ability of concoction, as their faces be differing in appearance? so that it is too little for one which is too much for another, and no certain measure, nor number, nor weight is to be prescribed to any man: but every one to feed according as his stomach is able to concoct; which (to use Hypocrates his phrase) though it have 
lib. de. sal. diaet.  no ears, yet hath it intelligence to beg his own, and wisdom to discern when it hath enough; willing us not to eat till we have an appetite, nor to eat so long till we have none. This rule Galen observing (amongst many other) he was seldom sick, and lived (as Sipontinus writeth) 140 years.  
Also let us remember, that in youth, health and winter we may feed more plentifully, as also after exercise and at our own own ordinary table: But when we are at great feasts, or forced to eat upon strange meats (be they never so finely dressed) let jealousy be our carver, 
Suet. in vita. Aug. Laert. in vita Diog.  after the example of Augustus Caesar, and also of Plato: who at great feasts fed only on some known dish. I have read somewhere, when they of Thasis invited Alexander to a feast, that he fed well upon their fat mutton & beife, and gave away the forced dishes and curious Quelqchoses not to his own Countrymen and Soldiers, but to his captives and slaves: saying, That he would rather they were all dead, then that any of his own by surfeiting upon any unknown meat should be never so little sick.  
And thus much of the just quantity of meats; which Physicians may aim at by long experience, prescribing a full Diet to them that be sound and strong, and accustomed to much feeding, a moderate diet to them that be indifferent, and a thin diet to such weaklings and sick persons as require neither much nor often feeding.    

CHAP. XXXII.  
Of the quality of Meats.  

Hipp. de sal Di. Galen come. in aph. so. lib 1.  HIppocrates and Galen bids every man both in health and sickness, beware what kind of meat he most commonly useth; for like food like flesh, like meat like nourishment.  
[And therefore we find that some have Quails stomaches, and may eat poison: A Woman by custom drank the juice of Hemlocks usually. Gal. lib. 3. simple. medic. cap. 18. And a Maid fed usually (by custom) upon Napellus Spiders, and other poisons, Caelius lib. A. L. 11. cap. 18. Mithridates the younger used continually a counterpoison made of poisons, in so much that when he would have poisoned himself (being by his son Pharnaces villainy betrayed to Lucullus) he could not do it, and therefore killed himself by the help of a Frenchman, Plin. lib. 23. cap. 9]  

Gal. come. 4▪ de vict. rat. in ac. cap. 10.  All which cautions are particularly set down by Hypocrates and Galen, though scatteringly and by pieces in several places▪ that I need not add to his own words; which I have aphoristically set down in these sentences following, because no man ever did the like.  

Gal. come in aph. 50. lib. 1. Gal. come. in ap▪ 12. l. 1. & come. de sal. diaet. c. 7▪ & come. 5. in 6. epi▪ c. ●. & come. in aph. 3. lib. 3.  1. Let every man take heed, what quality his meat is of; for custom begetteth another nature, and the whole constitution of body may be changed by Diet.  
2. We should take those kinds of meats which are best for our own particular bodies, for our own particular age, temperature, distemperature & complexion. For as every particular member of the body is nourished with a several juice: so labourers and idle persons, children and striplings, old men and yond men, cold and hot bodies, phlegmatic and choleric complexions must have divers Diets.  

Gal. come. in aph. 18. lib. 2.  3. Young, hot, strong and labouring men's stomaches may feed of meats, giving both an hard and a gross juice, (as beife, bacon, poudred-flesh and fish, hard cheese, rye-bread and hard eggs, etc.) which may nourish slowly, and be concocted by degrees; for if they should eat things of light nourishment (as veal, lamb, capons, chickens, poacht-egs, partridges, pheasants or plovers, etc.) either their meat would be too soon digested, or else wholly 
Gal come. 2. de vict. rat. in. ac. cap. 36.  converted into choler. chose milk is fittest for young children, tender flesh for them that are growing, and liquid meats for such as be sick of sharp diseases.  
Furthermore if any man's bowels or body be too dry, a moist diet of suppings, and boiled meats yields him a remedy, but if it be too moist, all his meats and diet must tend to dryness.  

4. de fac. simp. cap. 7.  4. Sweet meats are unfit for young children and young men, and hot. stomaches; for they corrupt children's teeth, and turn most into choler in young men's stomaches, but they are good for old men and cold complexions; yea honey itself agreeth with them.  

4. de simple▪ fac. cap. 19 &. 5. ejusdem. cap. 25  5 Bitter meats engender choler and burn blood, giving no general nourishment to the whole, howsoever they be acceptable to some one part.  

Gal. de alim. fac. l. & ca ult.  6. Sharp spices (which I have particularly named before in the fifth Chapter of this Book) are most unfit for tender bodies, whose substance is easily melted and inflamed, howsoever strong men may eat them with gross meats.  

Gal. 2. de vict. rat in ac.▪  7. Sour meats and sharp together (as lemons, oranges, citrons and vinegar) offend cold stomaches and sinewy parts: but if they be cold and astringent (as sorrel, quinces, cervisses and meddlers) they are not so offensive, nay they are profitable to all stomaches being eaten last, unless the body be subject to fluxes.  

Gal. 3 de fac. alim. & 3. de loc. af●. cap. 6.  8. Meats oversalted how dangerous they are, inflammations, leprosies, sharpness of urine, and great obstructions happening to such as use them much, do sufficiently declare, agreeing with none but strong bodies; as Sailors, Soldiers, and husbandmen, accustomed to 
Gal. come in ap. 18. lib. 2.  hard labour and much toiling.  

Gal 5. de. al. f●▪  9 Fatty meats are not good but for cold and dry stomaches; for in sanguine and choleric stomaches they 
Isa. de univers. & parti. diaeta.  are soon corrupted, in phlegmatic stomaches they procure looseness and hinder retention: Only they are fit for men naturally melancholic, giving to them a kindly warmth, and also a most convenient and proper moisture.  

Gal. come. in aph▪ 3. lib. 3.  10. All meats should be given very hot to cold and raw stomaches; but cold meats to cold stomaches are very hurtful. Pityllus had so cold a stomach (saith Suidas) that he made a sheath for his tongue, to swallow down his pottage scalding hot: and Eunapius reporteth the like of Proaeresius the Sophister; yea I myself have known a Shropshire gentleman of the like quality.  

Gal. come in. aph. 3 l. 3.  11. When any man is sick or distempered, let his meats be of contrary quality to his disease: for health itself is but a kind of temper gotten and preserved by a convenient mixture of contrarieties.  
Now in what degree most particular meats be hot, cold and dry or moist, is sufficiently declared above in the fifth Chapter, where I have largely set down the differences of meat both in kind, substance, temperature and taste, whereunto I refer you.  
12. Above all things take heed that you eat not through hunger of a meat, which either naturally or accidentally 
Gal come. in aph. 38. lib. 2.  you loath; for as the pleasing meat is best concocted (yea though it be somewhat of the worst kind) so meats loathed, turn into wind, belchings, vomitings and cruel gripe, because the stoamch doth not affect 
Gal. come. 4. de vict rat. in. ac. cap. 89.  them. But what meat is fittest, and most agreeable to every man's taste, humour and nature; rather proper experience doth teach us, than any man's judgement can direct us.  
13 Let a strong and good stomach taste of all things, 
Hip. de sal. vict. rat.  but not feed upon them as nourishments; yea, it is good in health to taste every thing, lest we refuse that in sickness which perhaps we shall have most cause to feed on: 
Pl. desan. tu●n.  as it happened to Titus the Emperor, whose overnice feeding and bathing hastened his death.   

CHAP. XXXI.  
Of the Time, Order and Manner of Eating.  

Meat well chewed is half digested. It is ill to talk much at meat▪ Where an egg is best to be opened.  AThenaeus in his Feast of Sages saith, that the old Grecians lived very temperately; but yet he saith that usually they made three meals a day, one early in the morning, another at noon, and the third at night. The first was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, because it was nothing but a sop of bread soaked in a little wine. The second was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, because it was made of home-bread things, which are thought to give the best and strongest nourishment.  
The last was called by two names, 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 signifying a late eating, and 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 because it required care and cost. In Plutarch's time Breakfast was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, because they did only taste and go. Dinner was termed 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, as being a noon-meal. Supper was called 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, for that it was not private (as Breakfast and Dinner) but either common amongst neighbours, or at least with all their own household. How Beavers called procaenia, and sleepdrinks called prohypnia and metacaenia came up, none have yet thoroughly determined, though here amongst labourers, and in Germany amongst gentlemen they are ordinarily put in practice.  
Breakfasts are fit for all men in stinking houses or close Cities, as also in the time of pestilence, and before you visit the sick; for empty veins draw deepest, and what they first receive (be it good or bad) with that they cleanse or infect the blood. chose where the air is pure clear and wholesome, it is best to fast till dinner, unless you be either of growing years or of a choleric stomach, for than you must not in any case be long fasting.  
Dinners and Suppers are generally necessary and convenient for all ages, times of the year, and all complexions; especially in these northern parts of the world, where inward heat being multiplied by outward coldness, our radical moisture would be soon consumed, if it were not restored by a double meal at the least.  

Whether Dinner or Supper should be largest.  
Now whether at Dinner or Supper we may feed more plentifully, is a great question amongst Physicians; either because they affirm too generally on either side, or because they were ignorant of distinctions: 
lib. 2. para. c▪ ●1  Some are just of Leonard Fuchsius his opinion, that our Supper should be the larger of both, for these reasons. First, because as we may eat more in Winter then in Summer, our inwards being then hottest, through repercussion of heat by external coldness; so the night 
lib. 6. epi. sec. 6. & 1. aphor. 15.  resembling winter (as Hypocrates noteth) no reason but that then we should feed most. Secondly we may then feed more largely because sleep ensueth, with whom blood, heat and spirits return more inward to the belly, 
Hip. 6▪ ep. sec. 5. & aph. 29.  bowels, stomach and all parts of concoction, then when by light exercise or musing they are distracted upward, downward, and outward to other parts.  

Hip ibid. ap. 10  Again, look what exercise is to the joints and muscles, that is sleep to the bowels: that is to say, look how labour and exercise doth warm the one, so doth sleep and quietness 
l. 1. de ca sym.  warm the other. Galen likewise writeth thus; whilst a man sleepeth all motive and sensible faculties seem to be idle; but natural powers are then most active, concocting meat not only better in the stomach and guts, but also in the veins and whole habit of the body. 
lib. 1. cap. 97.  Paulus Aegineta is of the same judgement, writing thus. Sleep is a ceasing or rest of animal faculties, proceeding from the moistening of our brain with a sweet and profitable humour; which whosoever taketh in due order quantity and time, he receiveth thereby many singular commodities; namely good concoction of meat, and digestion of humours, and ability to labour easily and cheerfully after digestion: where he addeth this reason of better concoction in sleep out of Hypocrates. 
Hib. 6. ep. tom. 4 aph. 12.  〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, etc. He that is broad waking is hottest outwardly, but he that sound sleepeth is hottest inws ardly.  
Now if any shall object, that no sleep can be wholesome or sound after supper, because it is taken upon a full gorge. I answer him thus, Physicians write not to idiotes and fools, but to men of sense and reason; whom common sense may teach, that they are not (like swine and beasts) first to fill their bellies, and then presently to sleep upon it, but to sit or walk easily after supper for an▪ hour or more; to settle their meat to the bottom of their stomach, that it may prove less vaporous to the head, and be sooner concocted lying nearer the liver.  
Furthermore when I said, that we should feed more largely at Supper then at Dinner, I meant nothing less than to counsel men to gorg themselves up to the top of their gullet; but to advise them of both their meals to make Supper the larger, for the reasons alleged, and for infinite reasons besides which I could set down.   

For whom large, or sparing Suppers be most convenient.  
Nevertheless I do not so generally set this down, as that it is best for all persons, but for them only which be sound and in health: for if any be troubled with great headache, or rheums, or nightly torments of any part, their Supper ought to be very little, slender and dry, and also to be taken very timely in the evening; that nature being freed all night time of other offices, may only attend concoction of the diseases cause.  
Last of all, I except also them which have long been accustomed to small Suppers and long Dinners; because 
Hip. 2. aph. 50.  the imitation of a long custom (though it be evil) breedeth no common or petty danger. Laurence joubert 
Dec. 1. parad. 8.  in his vl Paradox written to Camusius the King of France his Secretary, wonderfully striveth to oppugn this opinion; but profiting no more with his head and hands, than the mouse in the tar-barrel doth with her feet; for when he hath done all that he can, he only proveth that better digestion is in the day time, and not better concoction, as hereafter (upon some other occasion) I will plainly demonstrate to the learned.   

How often a man should feed in a day.  
Furthermore I would not in like manner have any man think, that I prescribe two or three meals, and neither more nor less to all persons: for Children may feed much and often; old men little and often: where 
Plut. in Gryll.  by the way note this out of Plutarch, that old age is not ever to be stinted by years, but by decay and loss of natural strength.  
For in some Northern Countries (and he nameth ours) few men are old at half a hundred years, when the Ethiopians and Southern people are old at thirty. They are long young and lusty, because much feeding restoreth decay of moisture, and outward coldness preventeth the loss of inborn heat. These chose are soon old, because outward heat draweth out their inward moisture, which should be the maintainer and food of their heat natural.  
Also I permit unto true labourers and workmen to feed often (yea four or five times a day if their work be groundwork or very toilsome) because continual spending of humours and spirits, challenge an often restoring of the like by meat and drink.  
Finally whosoever by some natural and peculiar temperature, or else upon any sickness, is enforced to eat often; it were against art, reason and nature to number and stint his meals. Claudius' Caesar had so gnawing a stomach, that he could eat at all hours, And Aulus Vitellius, 
Suet. in vita claudii & vitel.  (even at his God's service and sacrifice) could hardly refrain from snatching the meal and oil out of the Priest's hand: yea he baited at every Village as he rid upon the way, and swépt clean the Amery in every Inn. chose some either by nature or custom eat but once a day, others only twice, and some thrice: as you may read in Benevenius, Ferdinandus Mena and Bartholomaeus 
Ben▪ c. 108. de abdit. Ferd. Mena l. de med. feb. c. 51. Barth. An in picta Po●si cir▪ ca finem.  Anulus; and as I myself can also witness by divers of our own Countrymen, if I purposed or thought it needful to produce their names. The like may I say of set hours, to dine or sup in; for albeit I could ever wish and think it generally wholesomest, to dine before the highest of the Sun, and to sup 7. or 8. hours after dinner; yet if any be accustomed with Augustus Caesar, to 
Sue▪ in. vit. Au.  eat only then and as often as he is hungry I forbid him not to discontinue his own course, albeit I rather impute it to a foolish use, then to any inward prescript or motion of nature. Caelius therefore not unwittily termeth 
lib. 9 c. 3. A. L.  Courtiers by the name of Antipodes; for as it is day with them when it is night with us, so Courtiers and Princes eat when all others sleep; and again (perverting the order of nature, and setting as it were the Sun to School) sleep out the sweetest part of the day, wherein others eat and work.  

Cael. l. 7▪ c. 9 A. C.  Concerning the manner of eating, it is not alike in all Countries. The Jews, Grecians and old Romans did eat lying and declining to their right sight. Only the Illyrians sat boult upright as we do now, with a woman placed (after the new Hans fashion) betwixt every man. Masinissa did most commonly eat and walk, yet sometime 
Ath. l. 10. c. 1●▪  
Leon●. l. 4. c. 3.  he did also eat standing, and sometimes leaning after the Roman guise, but he never sat at his meat: because he thought eating to be one of the slightest services to be done of men, upon which they should neither stand, lie nor sit long. For mine own part, I prescribe no other manner of eating, than we have received and kept by long tradition. Nevertheless, that declining towards the right side was the best manner of position in feeding, 
joa. c▪ 13. v. 23.  the example of Christ and his Apostles do sufficiently prove, who (when they had choice of rites and manners) observed ever that which was most wholesome, seemly and natural.  
Now how long we should sit at Dinner and Supper, though it be not set down precisely by Physicians, yet generally we may forbid too long or too short a time. Switrigalus Duke of Lituania never sat fewer than six hours at Dinner, and as many at Supper: from whom I think the custom of long sitting was derived to Denmark; for there I remember I sat with Frederic King of Denmark, and that most honourable Peregine Lord Willoughby of Eresby (when he carried the Order of the Garter) 7. or 8. hours together at one meal. Others feed quickly and rise speedily; but neither of those courses be allowable: for as too long sitting causeth dulness of spirits, and hindereth the full descent of meat to the depth of our stomaches; so too speedy rising causeth an overhasty settling, and maketh it also to pass out before it be well concocted.  
To conclude, mince or chaw your meat finely, eat leisurely, swallow advisedly, and sit upright with your body for an hours space or less; for longer sitting is not requisite for the body (howsoever some affect it) nay it is rather hurtful unless it be confirmed by long custom, or made more tolerable by reason of some pastime, game, or discourse to refresh the mind. But of all 
lib. de▪ remed. utr for't.  long sitters at the table, farewel Hugutia Fagiolanus, who (as Petrarch reporteth) lost both the City of Pisa and Luke's at one Dinner, because he would not arise (though a true Alarm was given) to repel the enemy, till his dinner were fully ended, which usually was protracted two or three hours.  
Last of all, Concerning the order of taking of Meats, The first course in old times was called frigida mensa, the cold service; because nothing but Oysters, Lettuce, Spinach, cold salads, cold water and cold sauces were then set on the table; which order was clean altered in Plutarch's time, for they began their meals with wine, 
Plut. 8. symp.  hot pottage, black or peppered broth, and hot meat, ending them with Lettuce and Purcelane (as Galen did) to suppress vapours and procure sleep; which example is diligently to be followed of cold stomaches, as the other is to be imitated of them which are over hot.  
Likewise that the most nourishing meat is first to be eaten, that ancient Proverb ratifieth Ab ovo ad mala; 
Cael liq▪ 7. cap. 17. A. L.  from the egg to the Apples; wherefore I utterly mislike our English custom, where Pheasant, Partridge and Plover are last served, and meats of hard concoction and less good nourishment sent before them. As for fruit (if it be not astringent, as tart apples, pears, soure-plums, quinces, meddlers, cervises, cornels, wardens, sour pomegranates, and all meats made of them) it should be eaten last.  
chose all sweet and moist▪ fruit (as ripe melons, gourds, cucumbers, pompions, old and sweet apples, sweet pomegranates, sweet oranges) and all things either fatty, light, liquid and thin of substance, and easy of concoction, should be first eaten, unless we be subject to great fluxes of the belly, or choleric dispositions of stomach, and then the contrary course is most warrantable. For if slippery and light meats went foremost into hot stomaches, they would either be burnt before the grosser were concocted, or at the least, cause all to slip downwards over-soon, by making the lower mouth of the stomach too too slippery. And verily I think that this is the best reason, wherewithal to maintain our English custom, in eating beef and mutton foremost before foul and fish; unless the reason drawn from use and custom may seem more forcible▪  
Finally let me add one thing more, and then an end of this treatise; namely that if our breakfast be of liquid and supping meats, our dinner moist and of boiled meats, and our supper chiefly of roasted meats, a very good order is observed therein, agreeable both to art and the natures of most men.  
FINIS.