AN ITINERARY containing A VOYAGE, Made through ITALY, In the year 1646, and 1647.  
Illustrated with divers figures of Antiquities.  
Never before Published.  
By Jo: RAYMOND, Gent.  
LONDON, Printed for Humphrey Moseley, and are to be sold at his Shop at the Prince's arms in St. Paul's churchyard. 1648.   


Roma Venetia  
Plebeae sane sunt istae animae quae suis affixae terris bona resident 〈◊〉 divinior est quae c●●●um Imitatur et gaudet metu.  
Il MERCURIO ITALICO Communicating A Voyage Made through Italy in the years 1646 & 1647 by I. R. Gent.  
Ne Plus Mome Vltra  
J. Cross Sculpt.   
London Printed for Hum: Moseley & are to be sold at 〈◊〉 shop at the Princes arms in St. Paul's churchyard. 1648   

TO MY READERS Howsoever Qualified.  
Gentlemen,  
DEdicatory leaves to a Book, like a curtain before a picture, only beget some higher expectation of the Piece; A weather beaten Traveller needs no such Vmbrilla as a Patron to shroud under. Though this book was not writ to be Printed, yet the worst (infallibly) are printed to be read. My intention was to confine this wanderer to my Closet and no farther; till the advice of some familiar, and command of superior Friends pressed me to exchange a single Manuscript for more Numerous Prints. I can challenge no other inducement then that I expose some Novelties which I question not but this age will digest. For the cuts I have hither transported, interpret me not so much desirous to grace the Page, as to preserve Antiquity. My choice consisting of those things I never before saw published. I speak plurally through my whole Transcursion, because that particle (We) implies asseveration, or in Reference to Gentlemen my fellow Travellers, who can affirm what I relate. Some (though strange yet no Contradiction) have seen this book before the author penned it; to those my sentence is referred: such as look into foreign parts through the spectacles of Imagination only, have no Patent either to Justify or condemn me, to these therefore may I appear a Romance, to the others a real story.  
J. R.   

TO THE Most Illustrious PRINCE CHARLES, Prince of Great Britain,  
Duke of Cornwall and Aubigny, Earl of Chester, &c.  
May it please Your highness,  
'tIs humbly conceived the duty of all the youth of ENGLAND to dedicate themselves and their endeavours to your highness: not only in regard of your Native but Acquired greatness, which draws the eyes of all Good Men upon Your highness Person and Actions. This Sir makes me humbly beg leave to lay my first fruits at Your highness feet, which (without farther Presumption) is the utmost Ambition of  
Your highness' most humble and most faithfully devoted JOHN RAYMOND.   

A LETTER from a most ingenious friend, to whom the author sent His Mercurio Italico.  
SIR,  
I return your Papers by that hand which brought them: I have run swiftly over your Itinerary, but am not so impudent to pronounce my thoughts on it; unless I had more time or a steaddier Brain; for after my riding three days post I am fitter for sleep then Epistles. The thing most observable of all your travels is yourself, who are able to grasp so much of the World, when 'tis not twice ten years since you came into it. I conceive it flows from your good nature, thus to set marks on your several Stages, that the Prints are visible to your friends and Country: 'Twas usefully done, since now so many of us are doomed to wander, not like Cain for drawing blood, but for asking Peace. Did others follow your example, this unhabitable-world would have more Manners and less News. Many Itineraries I have seen in Latin, few in English, and those so partial, that Countries are described (as Committees do Gentlemen) not as they are, but as they would have them. 'Tis a Noble Meditation how Greece and Italy (two great Champions) look over the Water, Daring and threatening and watching each other; 'twas once so twixt France and England. Such as have seen them will say how exactly you show us Rome, Venice, Florence, Naples, Milan, Genua, Bolonia, Padua, and those other Glories beyond the alps: to me this great limb of the World (Italy you know is a leg) not your foot but your hand hath gone over as a brief, elegant, smart Anatomist. But I am sorry you mention Virgil's tomb, for now people will think he is mortal; sure his own Pile (built three stories high, of Eclogues, georgics, and Aeneads) will last as long as the round World. In this Journey others went before you, so as you are forced almost upon gleanings, yet here (as in the Field) gleanings put together are the best of the corn. Now you are come home, you'll have stranger sights than any abroad; you'll see Great Britain a Floating Island, and the most virtuous Monarch under Heaven cast into a small Isle as on some plank in a great shipwreck. You'll find London (like the Spleen in the Body) hath rendered other Parts poor and languid; so as now England is but one great town; this London all sides do court and hate, and she is so much cocknay to think it will continue, having kicked at all, and made no friend. Sir, when you behold a kingdom without a King, a Church without Clergy, a University without Scholars, you'll grant we have a thorough Reformation. But two hours since I saw a better sight than Italy affords; 'tis His highness the Prince of Wales, who for soul and Body is sure the most hopeful Prince in the Christian World; whose coming hither this afternoon brings a flood of business (as well as joy) on all the English in this town, especially on such as come for Dispatches; and that's the very reason why now you must excuse,  
Sir, Amiens Iul: 11. Stilo novo 1648. Your most affectionate humble Servant. J. BERKENHEAD.   

On his Friends Mercurio Italico.  
Go with your Hellish Heliconish spells,  
Raise puff-pastry, kneade unleau'ned syllables,  
Expatiate on a page in Tiptoe sense  
To pacify the wit's concupiscence  
Make Cupid dance o'th' Ropes; O! this is sport  
Will drill the Tenements of the———  
Planetick N●ntio tell him that peeps here  
Tiber and Thames concorporate this year.  
Minims, leave paddling in your feeble gear.  
Mark how the lusty grey Beards hug each other  
Their elemental sobs the consort smother.  
These to their Native Beds retreat; But see  
Antiquity swaddled in a Novelty.  
Yet no Booth Progeny to be gazed on Guest,  
Nor Loud ones with the Mandeville posest;  
Rare, not miraculous Blusterers that can  
Preach up the book but chatechise the Man.  
What though 
* Veswius  hell's sentinel that Champion stout,  
Spit wildfire, Blow the day's Taper out?  
Or those insulting 
† the Alps  Gogmagog's rehearse  
But pimples in the Corpulent universe;  
All's safe: Begin thy Voyage Reader, try;  
Delay will Annalize a Diary.  
Travels go twice abroad, both merit Praise;  
First they drive days to years, than years to days.  
J. N.   

An Introduction to ITALY.  
IT is preeminence enough methinks for Italy that she did then sway the Allcoercive sceptre on Earth, when our Redeemer assumed the flesh. To her we owe our Civility; she purchased it by conquests in the Levant; Propogated it by Victories in the North, till despairing of a Farther Plantation the Picts wall was her Vltima Thule; perhaps lest that people should have stumbled at the Innovation.  
To be Retrograde on this subject were to rob History of her birthright, to insist on my own ocular observation but venial usury.  
There are three evitable dangers that divert some from this Voyage; the first is the heats of the Climate; A second, that horrible (in Report) Inquisition; the last, Hazard of those merciless Out laws Banditas.  
The first may be allayed by Moderation, the second prevented by discretion; the last avoided by the defence of those states you pass through.  
This Duke of florence quite extirpated that savage Race out of his Dominions by raising a competent number; that personated Robbers and joined in league with the real ones till they fowd opportunity to dispatch them.  
As there is connivance at the Luterani (for so they term us) so 'tis rashness to proclaim one's opinion, weakness to disclose it: This may gain the Odium of the Better, this the injuries of the Vulgar.  
A novice of late so soon as he was come to Florence, said, Methinks this place is somewhat popishly affected.  
Another with more pardonable ignorance when his Host asked him whether he was walking in the afternoon, replied, to mass.  
One of my Cotemporaries discoursing with a friar, in a compliment protested he did reverence Clergy men for that he was the son of a Priest in England: which the monk could not construe but either an Irony to his Order, or Infamous to the gentleman's own descent.  
The most cautious tongue is incident to these errors; yet that nation is not so scrupulous as to take notice of a stranger's words or actions unless openly scandalous; for as Heretico is a name utterly detestable, so Tramontano by the Multitude is held contemptible, which low reputation begets a happy privacy to the reserved foreigner.  
That sort of People which Travellers have most agitation with as Vetturino's Hosts & the like, are very peremptory and cross, which if you menace they will repair with double insolence; knowing that if in the contest their stiletto should do mischief, the next Church may be their Asylum, where no Law or violence can attempt them.  
The safest way is Dissimulation, and to win better Accommodation amongst them disparage not, rather commend the worst.  
Their Osterias or inns stand usually alone, remote from any Village, so that Passengers must be content with what those Tabernae can afford, and he that seems to dislike their feeble 
* A weak broth of herbs  Minestra perhaps shall have nothing but an 
* Good words.  allegrament for amends.  
This Inference I lay hold on to speak more amply of the Italian.  
Whilst Rome wore the imperial Diadem of the subdued World, it might have been a disputable criticism, whither Rome stood in Italy; or Italy in Rome, That voice of fame which attributed all to the Roman; derogated from the renown of the Italian: Now, since Rome did resign the crown to the mitre; Italy allows her no Supremacy, but ecclesiastical; and in the general voge 'tis the most proper phrase to say such a man is an Italian, though a Native of Rome.  
However, in the Survey of this present Generation I find a residue of the old Genius still surviving.  
That Roman Generosity yet runs in the blood of their Noble Families, which (I have heard) can draw their Pedigree from the great Masters of the World; as that of the Savelli from Scipio Africanus.  
Neither doth the height of their spirits argue less.  
The Neopolitan is so elevated with his imaginary Revennewes that in his deepest poverty he will speak thousands rather than betray his wants.  
One will sit gravely before his door picking his teeth, and condemn the Capon he eat last; when a morsel of Bread would pass down merrily.  
Another I have seen begging in this method: first he looks about to see whether the Coast be clear, before he will utter one suppliant word; then he approaches in a more submiss strain, yet if any one chance to cast an eye that way; he retreats to familiarity; Pressing the justness of his Demands till he obtains the alms; which if but a penny or so, he casts it contemptibly in the donours' face, but soon after peaceably searches for the money, and when 'tis found preys for the benefactor.  
This is consonant with the Spaniard, so is the Genuesian as lofty as his buildings, so proud in his garb, that at our first night's Supper in Genua, some fiddlers came to welcome us with their music, but with so grave and stately a Preamble, that we all withdrew from our seats to salute the men, imagining them no less than Magistrates.  
The Plebeians or Commonalty of Italy savour much of the Goths and Vandals; yet even these are frequently distinguished with the worthy Appellations of Julio, Flaminio, Fabio, &c.  
In the Campagna di Roma I once espied a Labourer tilling the ground near some decayed Monuments; whereupon I made towards the fellow and asked him what those ruins were; he answered me, he knew nothing; but he had often heard his Grandfather tell a Story of one signior Romolo, that fought there. A twinkling Tradition and implies much.  
They have a Recreation certainly derived from their ancestors, viz: lafoy Mora, anciently micare Digitis, at the first it appears but childishly ridiculous; after better acquaintance, a kind of Conjuration; 'tis of force to bind the Fancy; yet the most illiterate are best at the Game.  
And no wonder since this air hath from all Ages checherisht the strongest Atlase's for Invention and Art.  
What brain but Italian could contrive Engines to raise so vast a Moles as the Vatican Obelisque.  
Observe what Machiavellian unheard of Weapons they devise to surprise an enemy unawares.  
At Venice I saw a pocket Church book with a pistol hid in the binding, which turning to such a Page, discharges. A plot (I conceive) to entrap him you hate, whilst you are at your devotions together, when there's least suspicion.  
Another as rare, is a Pocket stone-Bow, which held under a cloak shoots needles with violence to pierce a man's body, yet leaves a wound scarce discernible.  
A third is a walking staff in appearance; at the top is a Spring which grasped hard, at the other end will jet forth a Rapier with force enough to kill at a yards distance.  
A fourth is a gun to be charged with wind, which for six paces will not fail of execution with a small or no report.  
To these I may add their curious (yet illegal) tricks in poison, some mortal by smelling to, others that given now, shall have no operation till many months after.  
Some will attempt to poison Rivers if they can but find the Source or fountain; and in Milan there stands a Pillar called Colonna Infame, raised where a magician's house was pulled down, who for a time poisoned the whole City.  
I omit not their excellency in Statuary, Limming, Architecture, Gardning, scenes, music, in which all Europe gives them the precedency.  
In what perfection they have these faculties you may conclude from these Instances.  
Upon a sepulchre in S. Peter's at Rome, in a Combent posture lie the feminine Statues of Old age, and of Youth; In the latter the Sculpturer hath so exceeded Nature, for limbs, Features and comeliness, that 'tis said a Spaniard at his Beads left his Devotions to expiate his sense on that Niobe-like Lady, and for that reason a veil of black Marble now covers Youths nakedness; whilst her neighbour old Age wants a Smock.  
For limning, one Mattia Casale of Sienna (though no eminent Artist) drew the Picture of a Prince so exactly, and with that vivacity, that in the Prince's eyes, he placed his own Effigies perfectly discernible as in the original.  
Sir Henry Wotton a friend to Ingenuity, and a great admirer of it in the Italian, had transported out of Italy a Piece of two Dogs combating for a bone, done with that life; that a third more living cur entering into the room, very eagerly assaulted the Colours, which wanted nothing but motion, to resist him.  
For their Architecture I refer you to their Cities; A Flandrian ambassador leaving Florence, told the Great Duke his City deserved to be seen never but on holidays.  
For their Gardens, I dare confidently avow all Christendom affords none so voluptuous, as those within the Walls and Territory of Rome; and at Bagnaia (as I remember) there's a walk for a hundred paces arched with fountains, so that a man may pass dry under the Element of water; A trick might raise a Question in the schools.  
Their scenes, (or as they term them Operas) are Regalios, they have not yet fully communicated to us, their other Arts we daily borrow.  
A year since in a Representation at Venice, Phaeton in his chariot drawn by four natural well pampered Steeds, were all hurled over the theatre in an artificial cloud.  
In this they but imitate Nature, mark how they subdue her.  
At the Marriage of the Duke of Florence there was brought on the Stage a Balletta, or dance of Horses; whilst an Ape played the air on a Gittarre; A Florentin said a third Miracle was intended, Viz: a Consort of parachitoes voices, but the scholars had not got their lesson perfect against the day appointed for the nuptials.  
They are so addicted to music, especially that of the voice, (which indisputably is the best,) that great Persons keep their Castrati, viz. eunuches whose throats and complexions scandalize their breeches.  
Neither is the Rout less propense to that though with lesser skill and art; 
A Porter.  There's no Fachin or cobbler but can finger some Instrument; so that when the heats of the Day are tired out to a cool Evening; the Streets resound with confused, yet pleasant Notes.  
Their Carnavall is the fittest Season to vent any humours; he's most extolled that can act the mimic best: So many men, so many crotchets; some abusive, others for Mirth.  
A Sanesian perhaps to satirise on the French Vanity, got on a suit a la Mode with all things correspondent; but for his trimming, where we place Gold Buttons (as down the Breeches. Round the knees, along the skirts &c.) he wore little Hobby Horse Bells, and on his Crest stood a cock's comb Triumphant; Thus whilst he footed it gingerly through the streets, the spectators voushsaft him no other Title than Monsieur.  
From these passages I have here cited the Reader may collect of what temper this people is, by these following what that of the Country.  
Southern climates (Philosophically) refine the brain; those that have adorned Italy with their singular endowments, owe perhaps as much to their country, as she to them.  
Yet most certainly had Romulus his successors aspired no farther than the Mud wall he left them; had those Legions of Worthies never been borne there, we should never have had such an esteem of this Cisalpine clod; the fertility of which I attribute not to the soil, but Site.  
The Earth yields these five Harvests successively; First, in June, that of silk; in July, of diverse fruits; in August, that of corn, which they afterwards sow with Millio, Rice, Turkey wheat, or the like grain, and within two months have another crop.  
In September that of their wines.  
In October, that of oil.  
Most of those places celebrated by the old Poets for the rich gifts of Bacchus are degenerated from their pristine worth, yet in lieu of those, others are so ennobled, that in a Moderate computation they have no less than twenty distinct Species of liquour to please the Gusto; the most dilicious, (and but the ethnic Ambrosia in a Christian Phrase) they call Lachrymae Christi.  
They have few trees but what we have seen in these parts.  
The Hesperian Apple, or Orange Tree is of a most ravishing beauty perpetually Verdant, bearing an Hortyard of Blossoms, green and ripe fruit altogether.  
Amongst their medicinal Plants scarce known amongst us but in apothecaries shops; I took notice of one Odoriferous herb called Basilico, which hath this innate power, that if laid under a stone in some moist place, in two days it produceth a Scorpion, this I can assert by experience, and to countenance this story, there fell out a strange accident in my stay at Sienna. A Gentleman was so pleased with the smell of this Basilico, that he had some dried and beaten into powder, which he snuffed up, imagining it of the same force with Tobacco to clear the head, but he bought the experience at the price of his life, for he died distracted; His skull being afterwards opened by the chirurgeon, a nest of Scorpions were found feeding on his brain.  
For their creatures they have many not known to this Island, but for curiosity. About Rome they plow the land with Buffolos; near Sienna they hunt the wild boar, with the Rowbuck, the wolf, the Porcupine, and the Tasso Cane or mountain Dog.  
They have many Reptilias, of strange natures.  
The Cimici are most Troublesome bed fellows; but Fleas in Folio, yet so dainty, as they will choose their flesh; my Chamberfellowes face hath looked big as Boreas with them in one night, when they have not so much as touched my skin, or disturbed my sleep. They are very offensive to his nostrils that destroys them.  
The Cantherides are green flies by day, and in the night pass about the fields (a pleasing spectacle) like flying glow-worms with fire in their tails.  
A Rimarra is a Philanthropall creature in form like a Lyzzard, in bigness much exceeding it. A Countryman told me nature had so provided that the property of that beast was thus; If a Peasent lay to repose himself in the shade, The Rimarra will vigilantly attend him, if a Serpent approach (with which she is at enmity) she tickles the Countryman in the ear; summoning him to stand on his guard.  
No less strange though true is the report of the Tarantula which some say is a fly; but at the opening of a door in the Vatican their skipped out a creature not much unlike an Eft, only with longer claws, at which some Italians then in our company cried out una Tarantula Tarantula The venom of the Tarantula is of such operation as he that is stung while the fit continues falls a caparing; and nothing can allay it but music. I saw a Capuchian at Sienna who was perfectly well in his senses all the year till precisely the day came about whereon he received a Bite of a Tarantula, then on a sudden he would skip like a Madman.  
Were these occurrences as Pleasing to my Reader as to myself, I should build gates for my Cities to run out of: This roughly hewed Portaile resembles the alps which passed, behold 

Rome the Holy. Page 67  
Venice the Rich. pag. 187  
Naples the Gentle. p. 138  
Florence the fair. p 28  
Genua the Superbe. p. 10  
Milan the Great. p. 238  
Bolonia the Fat. p. 168  
Padua the Learned. p. 205  
Verona the Ancient. p. 226     

AN ITENIRARY CONTAINING A brief Narration of a Voyage made through Italy, in the year 1646. and 1647.  
THere are but two ordinary passages out of France into Italy, the one over the alps, the other by the Mediterranean Sea, those commonly which go by the first, return by the second, and so contrary. We (November being quite expired ere we left France) for our own convenience preferred a boat before a horse, I mean the Sea voyage, before the Land. Wherefore being come to Antibe the utmost City of France, we found favour of the governor (it being a Frontiere and place of strength) in giving us a Bill of health, without which it is very difficult to enter into any of the Italian States or Cities, & having over night procured a Filoaco to carry us all our way to Genua if so be we met with no boat of return betwixt thence and Monaco; the next morning we departed, and about nine in the forenoon came before Nice in Savoy, situated on the Sea side, but hath no Port, the buildings are after the Italian, & it is commanded by a strong Castle that stands on a hill. Finding no convenience of embarking better here we sailed on, but at the point of Land that turns towards Morgues, there arose a contrary wind, which forced us to retire into the next harbour, to wit Villa Franca (Anciently called Portus Herculis) where by permission of the governor of the citadel we lay that night. This place likewise belongs to the Duke of Savoy. The next day going out of the Haven we met with a Genova Filouco, & having agreed for our passage in that, quitted our former, yet no sooner were we in the boat but a Tempest drove us again into the harbour; so that we lost that day entirely. The day following we had both fair weather, & a calm Sea, which encouraged our watermen to adventure out; about 2. miles from Villa Franca we dis- a great vessel making towards us, which our Boatmen seemed to fear taking it, for a Turkish man of War, but we were afterwards informed to the contrary. A little further we struck into the Port of Monaco, and after an hour or two stay there, the wind growing contrary, our Boatmen wished us to tarry longer lest we should be exposed to a greater inconvenience, which we the more willingly condescended too, in regard, 'tis so remarkable a place as no stranger can well pass without especial observation thereof; for I must confess I know no so small a principality of the like consideration, either for strength or riches; The Prince of the family of the Grimaldi of Genua, is in his state sovereign, and coins money, but hath still some greater King for his Protector, of late years he left the Spanish party, and gave himself with this his chief town, to the King of France's tuition, so that at our arrive there, there was a strict garrison of French; the Marquis of Corbon being then governor to whom we had address from his Brother in Law at Antibe, used us very civilly, and sent a soldier with us; to show us all the rarities that are there to be seen.  
Monaco (whether I may properly call it a Town or Castle I know not) is situated on the top of a rockey Promontory of incredible hard access, 
Monaco.  environed with strong walls, within which are some streets very neatly representing the face of a City, in the midst is a spacious court fit for to exercise military discipline in, at the end is the Prince's Palace, which though beautiful on the outside yet contains greater wealth within, chiefly in his Gardrobe, where the variety of tapestries the great quantity of plate, with the vastness of vessels, as fountains, Tables, and such like of pure silver, strikes amazement into him that sees it, besides this rich furniture, there are two Cabinets or galleries of rare curiosities which excepting the Duke of Florence's, may be equaled with most of that nature in Italy: amongst other singularities I was much taken with the statue of an Indian of Porphyre, and other material, as likewise a gemmery compiled of several precious stones with these letters; Otium Francisci Bembi; The Prince was then in enlarging this Palace, and beautifying it with Marbles and water-works. Having with great satisfaction seen all the particularities of this place, we returned down to our inn, and it growing towards night, some few hours before our departure a hard accident befell us, which was the loss of our Bill of health, wherefore though it was dark and the watch was set, yet we sent up a letter by a string to the governor, who very courteously returned us a Ticket of larger extent than our former. At midnight we departed from Monaco past eight miles farther by Menton, a village belonging to the same Prince, and about break of day we came before Vintimiglia the first city (towards France) of the republic of Genua, from hence we were in view of the mountains of Corsica and four miles farther we passed by Saint Rheims, where the shore (which is called by the name of the rive of Genua) is all covered with Orange, Citron, and Date Trees. Past the rest of that day without seeing any thing remarkable, unless Porto Mauritio, where heretofore there was a very good Port which the Genuesians ruined, fearing it should bring prejudice to their own. Towards night we struck in at Oneille, a city which seems to interrupt the Genois dominions, and belongs to the Duke of Savoy. After we had supped we took boat and sailed all night by many towns, viz. Diano, Araisse, where they fish for coral, Albengue, Luan, a city of the Prince of Oria a Genois, Final a place of strength and the only garrison the King of Spain hath in these coasts; the Port though small yet serves much in the conveyance of men and ammunition towards Milan. This place commonly pillageth strangers, they taking all for Frenchmen; but (Praised be God) we passed quietly, and towards break of day came before Savona; The most ancient and greatest city of the Genevoisat after Genua itself. Behind this city, the Apennines that cleave Italy in sunder begin to take their rise. From hence to Genua is 35. Italian miles; all which way one goes more and more into the pleasantness of Italy, the whole board being filled with Country Seats and Villages, which for beauty surpass many cities I have seen elsewhere. Amongst those San Pietro d' Arania (whither the richer Genuesians retire themselves in the summer, and indeed may be called another Genua for the gallantry of the buildings) is the best; but three miles distant from Genua, the Metropolis of that most flourishing republic, which contains so stately Palaces, that from all the rest of Italy, it hath gotten the name of Genua the superbe.  
'tis situated at the foot of very high mountains, 
Genua.  which though sterile, yet want nothing that Art can enrich them with; In gardens, water-works, and the like. That which exceeds all the rest, is the Prince of Orias Palace, reaching from the bottom of the shore, to the top of the mountains, divided into three gardens. In the first whereof the terraces or Porches one above another bore up with marble Pillars, is very magnificent, as likewise the fountain of the Eagles, and the Family of Neptune: at the one side that famous Cage of ironworke, which is of so vast an extent that it encloseth a wood of cypress and other trees. The other two are filled with Grottes, Orange trees; and other variety of delights: At the upper part of all stands the statue of Jupiter tonant. Within the palace the Gardrobe full of rarietyes; the Tapestries and precious Furuiture declare greatly the richness of that Prince.  
Next to this is the house of Hieronimo del Negro, where the excellent Pictures, the fall of waters, the Fountain, the Piscina, the Grove and other delightful departments, are well worth seeing. On all sides of the City is an infinity of such places of pleasure, especially round about the Port, which is of a large circuit, resembling much the form of a Theatre enclosed with fair buildings. 'tis defended by a solid bulwark (which they call Il Mole) that lies about 2 hundred paces into the Sea, raised at a very great expense: Opposite to that a rocky Promontory casts itself forth, at the head whereof stands a very lofty Pharos, bearing a lantern of more than an ordinary bigness, to guide Ships in the night: Within the Haven is a place where the galleys lay, every one in a particular Classis. As for the City itself, it is enough to say the Genuesians live in a Kingly luxury, and I believe it is the best built and compacted City, not only of Italy, but also of Europe. The houses generally are very high, the streets for the most part (its only fault) are somewhat narrow, so that no Coaches are here admitted, which though an inconvenience, yet preserves the ways more clean and neater. I except here that spacious, long, even, and indeed Mistress of streets the Strada Nova, which I am confident may be justly preferred before any in Christendom, so proud in Architecture, so rich in Marbles are the Palaces 'tis filled with. The fairest one belongs to the Duke of Oria. Amongst the public Edifices, the Exchange or merchant's Hall. the Duke's Palace with the armoury for 30 thousand men deserved our walking to. Neither are the Genuesians less splendid, in adorning their Consecrated places; witness the mighty quantity of polished Marble, wherewith all the Churches are filled, especially San Lorenzo the Dome, and Santo Ambrosio belonging to the Jesuits. But that which surpasseth all, and is of most admiration, is the chapel of the Anunciade, begun to be built not many years since at the expense of one Family, (whose Palace joins to it) yet is of so incredible richness for the red and white Marble Pillars, and other ornaments, that one would imagine the revenues of a whole City could not be enough to raise so glorious a work as that will be when 'tis finished. Finally, the Genuesians to defend this their brave City, have encompassed it with Walls no less commendable for beauty and strength, then prodigious for their large extent. The people of this commonwealth are habited all alike, somewhat tending towards the Spanish Mode; and are of a very austere and superbe humour, hardly vouchsafing to look so low as a stranger, wherefore having with much satisfaction seen their Flourishing Estate, we left them. We set out from Genua in a Filouca about sunsetting, and having sailed all that night, about noon the next day we struck into Porto Venere, and after dinner crossed the golf of Aspecia, (which is defended with many strong Fortifications) to Lerizi. This Bourg being the mid way from Genua to Ligourne (such is the villainy of the watermen in these parts) if they get their passengers, chiefly strangers hither, they will so delay their departure, pretending the inconveniences of the weather, that by lying still at so great an expense, they may be forced to give them their pay, and to hire horses for the rest of the way by Land. Which trick we were forced to suffer patiently, after a day and halves attendance for our boat. Hence we took Post, and having past through the Olive woods, over the hills that lay nearest the shore, we came into a low plain country, which continued so to Leghorn. First we passed the River Magre, then went by Sarazana, a good City, and last of the dominion of Genua, after that we came into the Principality of Massa, wherein we passed by Lavenza and Carrara, where out of the hills they dig great store of Marble, and then through Massa itself, where the Prince resides in Estate sovereign.  
The town is very pleasant, standing in a territory fruitful in Orange trees and other fruits. Hence we came suddenly into Tuscany, but quickly left it, falling into a woody Country, belonging to the State of Lucas, and so to Viregio, under the same power, standing at the mouth of a small river, which runs from Lucques. Here we were forced to lie, and the next morning some two mile farther we passed the river that parts the republic of Lucques from Toscany, and so in the morning arrived at Pisa. 
Pisa.   
Which City was heretofore a great free state of itself, but at the rising of the family of the Medicis on which line the Dukes of Etruria successively run, this with many other noble cities, was reduced to the great Duke's subjection. From whom it hath received many Embellisments. 'tis situated in a Marshy land, so that the unwholesomeness of the air renders it scarce of the native people, much more of strangers which seldom tarry any longer than to see the rarities of the place. Amongst which I prefer that worthy piece of art the Falling Tower which travellers boast of, (and not undeservedly) as one of the most mervellous things they see in the voyage of Italy. 'tis covered round with galleries & 7. rows one above another of Marble Pillars, so that 'tis hard to be imagined by what engines so great a structure should be supported, it being built so declining to one side, that all men which regard it, at the first expect its fall. Hard by is the Dome or cathedral Church of Pisa; where threescore Pillars testify as well its Antiquity, as the Gates of brass its rarity. Joining to this is the Campo Santo, or Cimetiere firmed in with a wall of Marble, and much resembles a cloister; in the midst is the Church yard from whence the place hath its denomination, that implies the holy Field; because half the ground was brought from Jerusalem, and it hath a particular propriety, that all bodies which are buried there, are consumed within the space of 40. hours. Here are likewise reserved many Ancient urns, which, with the story of the Old and New Testament painted of old work, make the place very venerable. Hard by is the Baptistary, or San Giovanni; wherein, the Font, and pulpit leaning on four lions, will for the preciousness of the stone, yield to no other in Italy. Leaving the Area where these things stand together, a little more into the town is the chapel and Palace, of the Knights of the Order of St. Stephen, the Frontespiece of the chapel is of Marble neatly polished. The inside is adorned with the truest ensigns of Valour; I mean trophies taken from the common enemies of Christianity, the Turks. Before their Palace is the statue of the great Duke Cosmus, with a Fountain. This Dignity of Knighthood is much like to that of Malta, both to maintain Christ's cause against the Mahometans, yet these may marry, the others I conceive may not: These wear a red cross for their badge in this fashion. ✚ From hence we walked to the physician's garden, which is more for use then delight; although there be good walks, & water-works that well washed us, yet for the most 'tis covered with simples, outlandish Plants and the like. Joining to it is a gallery very commodious for medicinal things, it abounding with all curiosities of Nature, as foreign creatures, Stones, minerals, and whatsoever strange the farthest Indies produce. In general, this City stands so opportunely, as few like for the receiving of all foreign Wares. In the midst thereof runs the river Arno, from thence to its Embuschment navigable for very great Vessels, so that here is a place where the Duke builds his galleys: On one side of the river, is a fair street called Longarno, where is the great Duke's Palace, and before it the statue of Ferdinand the third; On the other side is the Exchange, little, but of Marble, than which nothing more common in Italy. In a word, 'tis praise enough, to say 'tis the third City under the great Duke, who I think hath the fairest of what Prince soever. Having taken a satisfactory view hereof, we went on our way to Ligourne, whither there is an hourly convenience of a Coach to transport Merchandise from Leghorn to Pisa, the Duke hath made an artificial channel, of 15. miles long, which bears small boats like to Venetian Gondoloes. The Escluse of which channel we saw at our setting forth out of Pisa, covered for 250. paces. The most part of the way to Leghorn is through fens, till one enters into the great Duke's forest, which continues to the town. 
Leghorn.   
Leghorn the only maritimate place of importance, under the Great Duke, is situated in a plain, at the board of the Mediterranean Sea, 'tis but little, yet the great concourse of Merchants which flow thither from all Nations, chiefly from my one, make it more spoken of than many Cities, of a larger extent. 'Tis an innumerable sum of money the Duke receives yearly from this small Port: wherefore his Predecessors with him have omitted nothing to make it strong, witness the royal Bastions, and mote wherewith 'tis fenct; The great Port where the Ships lay at Anchor, is defended by the Mole, and about hath many fanalls. The Darcina, where the galleys (Than but six in number) lay as quiet as in a Chamber, is most exquisitely well contrived: Before stands that best of modern Statues, the Duke Ferdinand in Marble, and the Colosses of four slaves under him, in brass in divers Postures, so lively represented, that if the Statuary could have framed a voice as well as those bodies, he might have conquered nature. Besides this piece, there are no more curiosities in this town, yet many conveniences. The streets are generally large, the houses low, but uniform, unless some which have been put out of order by an Earthquake, to which this place is often Subject. The great place is very beautiful, and fit for the assemblies of Merchants. On the houses round about and in the fairest streets, are pictured all the battles, and victories of the great Duke's galleys, obtained over the Turks, which a slave did to gain his redemption. The Jews which are here in great number, have the fairest Synagogue I ever yet saw, wherein on a saturday their Sabbath, we saw the manner of their divine (if so I may call it) service. Their privileges here are more than ordinary, they wearing no mark of distinction as in other towns, so that here the wealthier and richer sort are of that Sect. The Greeks likewise have a Congregation, and Church here. In a word, Leghorn is compacted of foreigners, yet the unwholsomeness of the air banisheth a great part from thence, which I by dangerous experience found true; for the day before I was to depart for Florence, (having all the while I stayed at Leghorn found a strange alteration of the air, different both from that of England and France.) I was ill disposed to sickness, however, not so much but that I adventured on my journey, which though with much difficulty I perfected. The first night we lay at Pisa, which way we had formerly past. The next morning we took Coach, (a very unpleasant passage over hilly way) and past first by S. Roman, a Convent of the Observantins standing on high, from whence is a pleasant prospect down the valley, from thence we came to Empoly, a neat little town where we lay, and the next day towards noon arrived at Florence.  
Which for its singular excellencies, 
Florence.  amongst all other Cities of Italy, is called {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} the fair. Florence the capital of Toscany, and seat of the great Duke, is situated at the bottom of very high hills, environed on all sides with the same, excepting towards the West side, before which lies a plain country, vulgo Pianura di Fiorenza. This City is divided in two by the river Arno, over which are built four Bridges of stone, upon one of the two chief is the goldsmith's street; upon the other of very stately structure stand the four quarters of the year in marble; Opposite to this before the Trinity, stands a vast column, with a statue of Justice in Porphyre at the top, which, Cosmus the first great Duke raised as a trophy in that place, because the news there came to his ear of the taking of Sienna. Hard by, is the Palazzo de Strozzi, no less to be admired for the immensity of its fabric, then for its rude and unusual Architecture. From hence towards the right hand is the merchant's Vault, supported with fair Pillars, and before it a brazen boar jetting forth water; Keeping right on, one comes into the great Place, in the midst thereof is the great Duke Cosmus, a horseback in brass, with this inscription under.  
Cosmo Medici Magno, Etruriae Duci Primo, Pio, Felici, Invicto, Justo, Clementi, Sacrae Militiae, Pacisque in Etruria Authori, Patri & Principi Optimo, Ferdinandus, F. Mag. Dux: Mag. Dux. III. erexit: An. M. DLXXXXIV. on each side of the Basis.  
Profligatis hostibus in deditionem acceptis Senensibus: Plenis liberis Sen: Fl. suffragiis Dux. Patriae renuntiatur. behind.  
Ob Zelam Religionis praecipuumque Justitiae studium.  
Betwixt this horse and the Palazzo vecchio, is a fountain, which all Italy cannot show the like besides, round about the Laver is the family of Neptune in brass, with his coloss of Marble in the midst, bore up by four horses; The whole not possible to be equalled, much less excelled by human art.  
In this same Piazza, is a Porch arched and adorned with some statues, amongst which that of Judith, in brass with that of the Rape of the Sabines, three Persons in several Postures cut all out of one stone are most remarkable.  
Just against it is the Palazzo Vecchio, at the entrance stands two Colosses, the one of David, the other of Hercules trampling on Cacus, the first of Michael Angelo, which in my judgement comes short of the other, though he the more famous statuary. Within is a Court set about with Pillars of Corinthian work; Above is a very spacious Hall with divers Statues, and amongst them those of two Popes, Leo the tenth, and Clement the seventh, of the family of the Medicis; the apertenants of this lodging are very great, and costly, but it being not so frequented as if the Court were kept there, every thing loseth its luster.  
Wherefore having speedily dispatched the sight hereof; that which requires a week to observe well, is at hand: I mean that richest of Treasures, the great Duke's Gallery. In the lower story sit the Courts of Justice, with an arcade to walk in on each side. Above are the shops of divers Artisans which work continually for the great Duke. In the uppermost part is contained as many wonders as things, Some to be admired for their preciousness and art, others for their rarity and Antiquity. On each side of the gallery are ranged Statues, to the number of fourscore and odd, of which for Antiquity I prefer the idol brought from the temple of Apollo, at Delphis, with this verse on the pedestal.  Vt potui huc veni Delphis & fratre relicto. 
As likewise that of Scipio Africanus, holding up his gown under his arm, according to Cicero's words. Nobis quidem olim annus erat unus ad cohibendum brachium toga constitutus, & ut exercitatione ludoque campestri, tunicati uteremur. After these I may reckon the two triumphant Pillars; from whence they were taken I know not; but their work speaks them Roman. Over the statues hang the Pictures, some Prototypes of the most famous men of the modern times, on the one side scholars, on the other soldiers.  
At the right hand of this gallery are several stanzas full of curiosities, into which whosoever enters is astonished at the quantity of wealth; confused with the variety of things worth observation.  
In the first room we went into, stands the Tabernacle, or altar destinated for S. Laurence chapel, no part thereof of common Marble; but totally compacted with jewels and Precious stones; The value inestimable.  
In the next Chamber is a Table with Flowers, and Birds in their natural colours of Precious stones, with a Cabinet prized at two hundred thousand crowns, covered with Agaths, Emerauds, Anamathists, &c. Within is the passion of our Saviour with the twelve Apostles all in Amber.  
In the third is a Cabinet with Calcidon Pillars, filled (as they told us) with ancient medailles of Gold; round about this room is an infinite number of natural and artificial curiosities, as the Nalle turned half into Gold by alchemy, The Emperor's head on a Turqu'oise bigger than a Walnut, with thousands more. Next is the armoury, wherein are the habits, and diverse sorts of arms of several ages, and People; amongst those, the King of China's habit, Hannibal's Head-piece of Corinthian metal, Charlemain's Sword; and an argument of the Italian jealousy, an Invention to lock up female frailty. Here likewise is a Magnet which bears up fourscore pound weight of Iron.  
In the last Cabinet we saw the curious Turnity of Ivory, a Pillar of Oriental alabaster, &c. and from thence we went into the Gardrobe, where are twelve great Cubbards of silver Plate, a service all of pure massy Gold; A saddle which the Emperor gave in a present to the great Duke, all embroidered with pearls and Diamonds; These, with many other Particularities of this gallery, (which might be a theme copious enough to write a Volume on,) declaring the wealth of this Prince equal with any Kings in Christendom.  
From the said gallery is a Corrider; or private passage to the Palazzo de Pithi, on the other side of the river; where the Duke keeps his Court; The Front of this edifice is very majestic towards the Basis of Doric work, in the midst of Jonick, in the uppermost story of Corinthian. In the Court is a grot with statues and a fountain over it, yet that which is most wonderful is the Loadstone of a most prodigious greatness.  
Neither are the gardens to be omitted, which for their largeness have the face of a forest, for their variety of a Paradise. Here cypress groves, there walks with statues, here a Sea of fountains, there Swans, Austriches, and other recreative Creatures.  
Being now on this side of the Arno, I will take notice of all I saw there before I return to the other. And first there stands a Pillar, bearing on it the statue of Peter Martyr, in the same place where he was beheaded. Next on the wall of S. Nicholas Church, above a man's reach are these veses, signifying an inundation of the River.  
☞ Fluctibus undisonis similis pelagique procellis.  
Huc tumidis praeceps, irruit Arnus Aquis,  
Prostravitque suae spumanti gurgite Florae.  
Opida, Agros, Pontes, Mae●ia, Templa, Viros.  
M DL. Id sept.  
Going now back into the fuller body of the City, on the other side of the River; on the bank there is a Marble, which I found of no great consequence, yet set by a Venetian ambassador as a Monument to a horse there buried, which had done him good service in the siege of the City.  
The Epitaph runs thus.  
Non ingratus Herus (sonipes  
Memorande) sepulchrum  
Hoc, tibi pro meritis, haec monumenta dedit.  
lest I should dwell too long amongst these earthly delights, wherewith Florence is filled, I will go and meditate in the Churches; and first in the Dome, which I conceive either for the exquisiteness of the work, or worth of so vast a bulk of Red, Black, and white Marble, to be the fairest cathedral without, that ever man laid eyes on. It's better part is the Cupola, so high that the brass Globe at the top, is capable of holding sixteen persons.  
No less wonderful is the Steeple, which without exempt, will yield to no other in the world, composed of the same stone and materials with the Church, but with more art and ornaments.  
Before the Dome is the Temple of Mars; built in an Octogon; now called S. John, or the Baptistary. The four gates of brass, which Ortelius prefers before any else in the world, the broken Pillars of Porphyre, the pavement, the old Grecian Pieces at the top, are things to be noted.  
From hence we went to see that mirror of Art, and wonder of this present age, Saint Laurents chapel, which is so glorious, that whosoever enters, will even imagine himself in some place above terrestrial. 'Tis wholly overlaid with fine polished stones, neither is any colour upon Earth, but it is there in stones naturally, all which I have been since told by diverse, (an argument of the great riches included in the bowels of Italy) are dug up within the great Duke's dominions. Round about this chapel are all the scutions of the towns under the great Duke, in their proper Colours of stone. Above are Niches for the statues of the great Dukes. Beside them their urns. The intent of this whole sumptious fabric, being that it should successively serve for the sepulchre of the great Dukes.  
Saint Laurents Church and Convent join to this, where the Library filled with books, all in Manuscripts is not contemptible.  
Not far from hence is Santa Maria Novella; in the Court are two Marble Pyramids that stand on brass Turtoises. Hard by is S. Mary's Church belonging to the Jacobins, where on the North wall is the tomb of Picus Mirandola, an eminent scholar, with this Epitaph.  
Joannes jacet hic Mirandola, caetera morunt.  
Et Tagus è Ganges forsan & Antipodes.  
In the same Church is Politianus his tomb subscribed thus.  
Politianus in hoc tumulo jacet Angelus, unum  
Qui caput, & linguas, (res nova) tres habuit.  
From hence I went to the Anunciade, and saw in the way the fountain of the centaur. The Anunciade is a place of great devotion, to a Madonna drawn by the hand of Saint Luke. In the Piazza before is the statue of the Duke Ferdinand the first; on horseback in brass, made by the same hand, with the former above mentioned, so that there is little difference betwixt them. Hard by are kept the Lions, and other wild beasts; and a little farther the Menage or Stables of the great Duke stored with Barbary and other excellent horses, and as I remember, I never saw better horse then at Florence. On the wall of the Cavalrizza is this Inscription.  
Franciscus Medici's, Magnus Etruscor Dux 11. Quod Nobilissimorum Adolescentium, qui equestri splendore se ornari cupiunt. Imprimisque Joannis fratris commodo fiere● hunc in Equo se exercendi Locum extrui jussit, Rustico Picardino Equorum Magistro. M DLXXXVI.  
Next to these though much distance, Santa Croce deserves seeing. Before it is a fair spacious Court, in which (it being carnival time while we were at Florence) we saw the play at Calce, with Cavalcades, shows, and other assemblies of the Nobility.  
Within the Church is the tomb of that famous Statuary, Picturer, and Architecture, Michael Angelo, made by his own hand; Over his urn stand those three arts, he was so renowned for with their instruments broken, bewailing the loss of their Patron underneath this Inscription.  
Michaeli Angelo Bonerotio Evetusta simoniorun familia. Sculptori, Pictori, Architecto. Fama Omnibus notissimo.  
Leonardus Patruo amantiss: & de se optime meritro, Translatis Roma ejus ossibus, atque in hoc templo Major suorum Sepulchro conditis, cohortante Serenissimo Med: Magno Hetruriae deuce. P. 6. An. Sal: M DLXX. Vixit. ann. LXXXVIII. M. XI. D. XV.  
To conclude my description of Florence, the houses are high built, the streets paved with great stones, even and long, many fountains, and other public ornaments, declaring the magnificence of the great Dukes. For eight mile round about the City there seems another Florence, so full are the fields speckled with Country seats. Neither are those delights to private men alone, but there are likewise public walks, witness that of Pines two mile long: that of Cypresses leading to Poggio Imperiale, and many more.  
Two miles up into the Northern mountains lies the old Fesuli, often spoke of amongst the ancient Writers, but now a poor Village, not having so much as the remnants of Antiquity.  
In fine, there is no Province in Italy more furnished with delightful, and well peopled Cities; then that of the great Duke, whose ancestors having united the States of three commonwealths together, to wit, Of Pisa, Florence, and Sienna, doth now entirely possess all Toscany; the nobler part of Italy. The wife of this present Great Duke, Ferdinand the second of that name, comes from the Duke of Urbin, of the family of Rovori.  
The Revenues of this Prince of Toscany exceed yearly ten hundred thousand crowns, which will amount to a hundred thousand pound English, his ordinary guard is of Cavalry, and Infantry, with Germans very well equipaged.  
The Florentines have commonly notable head pieces, so that from hence spring notable politicians, and statesmen Machevil was of them, and 'tis said that three ambassadors from several Kings, meeting accidentally on the way, proved in the conclusion to be all Florentines.  
So soon as we had filled ourselves with the sight of those many singularities, that are in and about Florence, we set forward for Sienna.  
Going out of Florence, at the Porta Romana, one leaves Poggio Imperiale a Villa of the great Dukes, which I had omitted above. At the entrance of the walks of cypress, that leads to it are the statues of the Tybre and Arno; those of the famous old and new Poets, Virgil, Ovid, Petrarche, and Dante. The house swarms with rarities, chiefly with excellent Pictures, amongst them all the line of Austria, this great Duke's mother, who built this house, being sister to the Emperor.  
After we had past by that, we lay that night at a little Bourg called Santo Cassiano. The next morning we rode through a Village Barbarino, from whence the mighty stirring family of the Cardinals took their original. We dined at Poggio Bonci, a place noted for the perfumed Tobacco composed there; which the Italians through custom take in powder, as profusely, as we in England do in the pipe. From hence in the afternoon we arrived at Sienna.  
Sienna formerly a free State of itself, now subject to the Duke of Florence, stands aloft covering the back of a hill; so that in the hottest time of the year, this City is still refreshed by cool gailes of wind; The air is very wholesome, much agreeing with the constitution of strangers, the Inhabitants very courteous, a great deal suiting to the humours of foreigners, and besides the purity of the Italian Language, is here professed, and spoken; these and the like conveniences make it much frequented by Travellers, and indeed moved us to settle ourselves there, for some months.  
Here we stayed not to see the rarities of the Place, which are not many in number; but to get some knowledge and practice in the Vulgar Tongue, however Sienna deserves a better description than my pen can afford it; for neatness and gentility, yielding to no other in Italy.  
At the entrance of the Porta Camulia, or di Fiorenza, only the higher buildings are in view; but out of the Porta Romans, the City seems to raise itself with a great deal of Majesty; chiefly because of the many Towers it hath, which during the time of its Liberty, were raised in honour of such and such men as had done any worthy service for the commonwealth, amongst these Towers which stand yet as signs of its formerly possessed freedom; that of Mangio surpasseth for height, which though its foundations be in the bottom of the Piazza, yet outtops all the City besides, It serves now for the clockhouse; From above is a fair prospect even to the confines of Toscany, below at the foot of this hideous Structure, is a chapel of Marble, where on set days mass is said to the People in public.  
To this joins the Senate house, built by the Goths, as some conceive by the manner of the Architecture. At one end thereof stands a Pillar, bearing Romulus and Remus sucking the wolf, in brass, which are the arms of Sienna, an infallible argument of its Antiquity, and certainly dirived from the Romans, of whom this City was a Colony. There are frequently more of the like pillars about the Town upon one more decayed, than the rest is ingraved-Memores Huberum, old, very old Latin.  
As for the Piazza, which lies in the heart of the City, I cannot fancy a more pleasing or commodious Place; 'tis of a large compass, resembling (whether naturally so, or artificially made so I know not) the fashion of a Cockle shell, in the midst is a Marble fountain of curious work, wherein out of the Wolves mouths comes water. This place is paved with the same material as all the streets of the City are, to wit, Brick; so that here and indeed throughout all Sienna, in the foulest weather one may walk as clean as within doors. The houses are for the most part Brick, built alla Moderna, the chiefest is that of the Pope, and the Arch bishops, who is of the family of the Picolominys.  
In the Strada larga lives the Prince Mathias, the Duke of Florence's Brother, a man very courteous to strangers.  
Close by his Palace is the Dome, or cathedral Church of Sienna, which though in comparison of others in Italy is but small, yet for the great travel and expense which it must needs have cost, 'tis inferior to none, 'tis both without and within of Black and white Marble; The Facade is admirable, garnished with statues; About the inside are the heads of all the Popes; The pulpit is an unparalleled piece, beset with figures of Marble. But that singularity which this Temple boasts of above all others, is the pavement, whereon many parts of the sacred history are so lively represented in several colours of Marble, as no pencil can come near it, though many Masters take pattern from those stones. Going up to the high Altar, at the left hand is the Library, painted by Raphel d' Vrbino; On the same side is a chapel, wherein is kept the arm of S. John Baptist, which (as an Inscription there manifesteth) was given to a Pope by the King of Peloponesus.  
Opposite to the Dome is the hospital, whither all Pilgrimmes in their passage to Rome, may come and take two or three meals gratis. In the chapel lies the body of their founder B. Susorius, as yet uncorrupted though nine hundred years since he died.  
Going down the Hill, from the hospital, one comes to the Ponte Brande, which is a reservitoire of Fish, not so much for the public use, as delight, or pastime.  
Hard by is the House where Santa Catharina of Sienna lived, which, though a place of special devotion, yet not so frequented as the Madonna di Provenzana. From hence going up the hill, by the Dominicans one sees the Fortification, the only defence of the City, and there by the Cavalrizza, whither in the summer all the Gentry retire a Spasso.  
The walls of Sienna are of an exceeding compass, yet but slight, covered with Caper trees; that fruit growing best in that soil, to wit, mortar.  
The Country about Sienna, principally towards the Maremmas or Marshes, is filled with all sorts of great Chase, so that wild boar, and other venison in its season is sold in the butcher's shops, as commonly as other flesh.  
In a word, I found Sienna the most commodious place a stranger could pick out to live retiredly, and make his time beneficial. Where after two months' stay, having made some little progress in the language, the time of Easter occasionly urging, together with good company, and the holy week, we set on for Rome.  
About ten miles from Sienna one goeth over a Bridge, whereupon is the Prince Mathias his arms with this Inscription.  

Viator securus incede.  
Vt expedita tibi ad Vrbem per Hertruriam pateret via, triplicem, fluvium Assum, Vmbronem, Vrcium, triplici poute subegit Matthias Seress: Hetruriae princeps, Publicae securitatis vindex, invictus heros, nec ipsam aquarum licentiam errare patitur sine jugo.   
Afterwards we passed through Buon Convento, where the Emperor Henry the seventh died by poison, given him in the Eucharist. dined at Tornieri, In the afternoon past a fair Bridge, leaving at the right Mont Alcino, (auciently Mons Ilicinus) noted for the Muscatello, it produceth, past through San Querico; Lay at the next Post.  
The next day about twelve miles from Santo Querico we passed by Radicofany; the last Fortification of the great Duke's Dominions situated on a steep rocky mountain, beneath it is the Bourg: and a little lower one of the greatest Hosteries or inns in the way to Rome.  
That very high mountain which the valley parts from that of Radicofany, now called Montamiata, was Tuniatus mentioned by Cato and Antonius. From Radicofany we went to Centino, dined there in the confines of Toscany.  
In the afternoon went over a fair bridge of Brick, built by Gregory the thirteenth; Upon it a Marble speaketh thus.  
Omnia dic laeto eveniant & Fausta Viator  
Gregorio, tutum qui tibi reddit iter.  
Here begins the Stato della Chiesa, or Patrimony of Saint Peter: A mile farther is Aquapendente, of which all the memorial I could gather (We only passing through it) is a very ingenuous direction under the sign of the posthouse, it runs thus.  
L'insegna della Posta, e posta a posta  
In questa posta, fin che habbia a sua Posta.  
Ogn' un cavallo a Vetturi in posta.  
From hence the way continues very even, till one comes to a rude and stony descent; down into a valley, from the top of which is a most pleasant prospect, on the Lake of Bolsena, thirty miles in circuit; in the midst thereof are two little lands; In the one is a Convent of Capuchins, where those of the family of the Farnese are interred, the other not inhabited unless by Fishermen. At the side of the Lake stands Bolsena, on the ruins of the ancient Vulsinium, famous in the Romans time. Some monuments of its former glory, yet stand chiefly in the Court of Santa Christiana's Church, as an Ancient urn, having Lions heads, Cornucopias, satyrs, Furies, pieces of such art as now the world cannot imitate, besides this, there is a heathenish altar of Ophit stone, frequent pieces of Diaspre Pillars; from hence we may gather that the Volsinienses, were once splendid though now buried in their dust.  
Distant from Bolsena seven miles is Monte Fiascone, in which way one passeth through a grove, wherein the ancients celebrated many Sacrifices to Juno.  
Monte Fiascone was formerly the head of the Falisci, a renowned people in old writers.  
'Tis now spoken of for the delicious Wine, of which there is a common story, that a German Bishop having heard much commendations of the wine of that place, sent his servant beforehand to try for the best at all the taverns in the town, giving him in charge, that where he found the best he should write over the door Est, Est; which he did, and having tasted, the Master approved his choice, but in fine, he so filled his body with wine, that he left no room for his soul; for he suddenly died, and was buried in Faviono's Church, his servant bewailing his loss; caused this witty Epitaph to be put upon his tomb stone.  Propter Est Est, Dominus meus mortuus. Est. 
Leaving Monte Fiascone, one goes down into a plain, wherein about two mile from Viterbo, on the right hand is a Sulphureous fountain, the water perpetually boiling. At the entrance into Viterbo is this Verse.  urbs Antiqua potens armis ac Vbere glebae. 
In the Palace is this.  Osiridis victoriam in Gigantes Litteris Historiographicis, in hoc antiquissimo Marmore Inscriptam, ex Herculis olim vunc Divi Laurentii Templo translatam, ad conservan: Vetustiss: Patriae monumenta, atque decora hic locandam statuit. SPQV. 
Sum Osiris Rex.  
Qui ab Italis in  
Gigantes exercitus  
Veni, Vidi, & Vici.  
Sum Osiris Rex. 
Sum Osiris Rex. Jupiter universo in terrarum orbe.  Qui terrarum pacato Italiam decem annos incolni, docens quorum inventor fui.  
The public fountains at Viterbo are very Remarkable.  
Without Viterbo are two ways for Rome, the old which the Pope in the last difference with the Duke of Parma, charged none should pass; the new by Capranica; we desirous to see the famous Palace of Capraroules, belonging to the aforesaid Duke of the family of the Farnese, took the old way, which though less usual, yet gives more satisfaction by the sight of that magnificent fabric.  
'Tis built in a Heptagon, or seven corners, before it is a Kingly Court, within, the Staire Case, In the Garden the Cataracts of water, are very admirable: But that for which this place is most spoken of, is the cellar, which besides the ampleness thereof, is as well stored with wine of all sorts, the Duke allowing to all strangers that come to see his house, two, or three glasses of fresh liquour.  
Hence, though late at night, we departed, and struck again into the Via nuova, at Monterose where we lay; From Monterose to Rome, are twenty Italian miles, all which country the Veientes anciently possessed, a people that much hindered the growth of the Roman Empire, of which take Florus. Hoc tunc Veientes fuere: nunc fuisse quis meminit? quae reliquiae? quodve vestigium? laborat annalium fides ut Veios fuisse credamus. So that if in Florus his time, the memory of the Veientes was so extirpated, what signs or remnants of them can we expect in this age.  
Six mile beyond Monterose, upon the Via Cassia, stands Baccano, and hard by, the Lake for bigness not much exceeding a Pond; yet noted for that memorable slaughter of the three hundred Fabii, which the Veientes hereabouts cut off in one day. There being but one child left at home, who afterwards restored his family, often serviceable to the commonwealth.  
After Baccano, there is a passage through a wood (Maesia anciently) where heretofore a passenger could hardly scape robbing, but of late years the trees being cut down 'tis free from danger. At the end thereof from the hill, one may discern that Mistress of the World Rome.  
Which before I enter, 
Rome.  I cannot but premeditate on Saint Hieromes' three wishes, which were, to have seen our Saviour in the flesh, to have heard Saint Paul preach, and to have seen Rome in its glory; which last, if ranged amongst the two former by so learned a Father, it must needs be one of the happiest sights mortal eye could attain to.  
I must confess the fame of Rome, which hath spread itself even to the most remote parts of the earth; together with the small intelligence I had in those histories, that declare the greatness of that universal Monarchy, made my Idea of Rome to exceed that of all the world besides; yet again when I conceived, how all human things are by succession of time subject to change; how at the fall of the Roman Empire this City was pillaged by the Barbarous, how through the insatiable fury of Nero, the fire devoured it, I imagined some lower fancy of Rome.  
But in the conclusion, having had a full ocular view thereof, I found that it flourisheth beyond all expectation, this New even emulous to exceed the old, the remnants of the old adding to the splendour of the new, both speaking it — Roma triumphati Caput Orbis.  
'Tis so ample a theme, that I grow almost confounded in going about to describe it, and indeed no man will take that task upon him, that hath seen the diversity of books, and Impressions there are only of the things of Note at Rome.  
One Volume of the Antiquities; Another of the palaces; a third of the Churches, a fourth of the Gardens; a fifth of the Statues; a sixth of the fountains; a seventh of the Villas; In a word, the press is burdened with nothing more than descriptions of Rome.  
Wherefore I will briefly pass over what I saw, leaving the narration of each particular, To the Itinerario d' Italia; and the Roma Antica, and the Roma Moderna.  
About four miles from Rome, in the way that leads to Porta Del Popolo is Nero's tomb, which because of the honour I owe not to the person the Tyrant, but to the Antiquity I will here put down having never seen it in Print.  
Nero's tomb  
DMS KARISSIMA  
This sepulchre is of solid Marble, on it are engraven Dragons, Fame, &c. The Inscription is hardly legible, only I could pick out Karissima with a K.  
Within a mile and a half of Rome, we passed the Tybre on the Mole, anciently Pons Milvins', where (besides the many noble exploits performed there by heathens.) Constantine the first Christian Emperor saw miraculously the sign of the cross, with the Motto, In hoc signo vinces. After we were gone over that Bridge, we came upon a very broad paved way, The Via Flaminia, which Flaminius in his Consulship continued sixty miles, from Rome to Ariminum.  
At the entrance into Rome, at Porta del Popolo, is a lofty Pyramid covered with Egyptian Hyeroglyfiques, which was heretofore dedicated to the sun, and stood in the Circus Maximus, but was thence transfered, and placed here by Sintus, V. as the inscriptions underneath manifest 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 355. .  
He that would see Rome may do it in a fortnight, walking about from Morning to Evening, he that would make it his study to understand it, can hardly perfect it in less than a year. A man may spend many months at Rome, and yet have something of Note to see every day.  
The first day we walked to the Villa of Prince Ludovisio, which stands on the same soil, where that renowned one of Sallust anciently stood, as one may collect from the broken Guglia, one and twenty paces in length, which was raised in his Hippodromus.  
The principal rarities in this Kingly place, are the tired gladiator, Marc Aurelius, his head of brass that stood in the Capitol; The Oracles head of Porphyre with the mouth open, whereby the Priests spoke, those for old; Among the new, the man Petrified which the Emperor sent to the Pope. A Bedstead built all of precious stones, to the value of 80000. Crowns. A bed (as a worthy Knight then in our Company said) fit to get none but an Alexander the great upon. In the garden are two ancient tombs, and sixteen round vessels of stone, wherein the ancient Romans were wont to keep their oil.  
The same day in returning to our Lodging, we saw many Antiquities, Passing by Alta Se mita, or Mons Quirinalis by the four fountains, which Lepidus brought, we came by Monte de Cavallo, which takes its denomination from the two Colosses of Alexander, menaging his horse Bucephalus, made in emulation by the two famous Sculptures, Phidias and Praxiteles. The horse at the left hand of Alexander hath under it Opus Phidiae, that on the right, Opus Praxitelis. Constantin the great had these transported out of Greece, and placed in his baths which were adjoining, as the 
* Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 280.  inscriptians underneath witness.  
Afterwards we passed by the relics of Antoninus his Basilica, and saw 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 343 & 346.  his and Trajan's triumphant Pillar, the two most wonderful pieces of Rome. The first which M. Aurelius Antoninus dedicated to his father Antonius Pius, is 175. foot in height, and now consecrated to Saint Paul, whose statue of brass guilded it bears on the top, that of Trajan which (as the vast letters on the pedestal lately discovered declare) was raised in honour of him by the Senate, after his death, returning from the Dacian wars, is a hundred twenty eight foot high from the Basis whereon it stands.  
On both these two ensigns of the Roman glory, are in Mezzo levato, all the adventures and battles of those two worthy heroes. The last of these Saint Peter now patroniseth, whose statue of brass is upon the Head.  
On palm Sunday we walked to Monte Cavallo, a most sumptuous Palace of his S. to see the distribution of palms, and Olive branches to the Cardinals, with other Ceremonies of that day.  
From thence we made a circuit through a part of old Rome, and saw first the Colosseo, or 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. p. 353.  Amphitheatre which martial prefers before the seven wonders of the world, with  Omnis Caesareo cedat labour Amphitheatro. 
This stupenduous fabric, which that Poet through flattery attributes to Domitian, was began by Vespasian, and finished by Titus his son. A great part stands entire to this day, the rest (which I much merveile at) was demolished for to build two eminent palaces, that of the Farnesis and the Cancellario.  
On one side of it is a ruin of the 
* Vid. Rom▪ An. i●. pag. 1●9.  Meta Sudans, from whence sprang water, wherewith the spectators ref●esht themselves.  
Hard by is the 
a Vid. Rom Antic. pag. 173.  arch triumphal of Constantin the great, raised in honour of him for his victory over Maxentius the Tyrant, at Pons Milvius, as the inscription on both sides declares. In the Passage through on the one side is engraven Liberatori Vrbis, on the other Fundatori Quietis. From this the via Appia began.  
Opposite to this, is the 
b Vid. Rom Antic. pag. 171.  Arch of Titus Vespasian, erected to him for his prize of Jerusalem; In the work of this arch is observed him riding in triumph, drawn in a chariot by four horses; on the contrary side, the Golden Candlestick, The tables of the Law, the Arca Faederis, and many other spoils taken out of the temple of Solomon.  
Having gazed a little on these Marbles, which speak Roman History more palpably than any Author, we returned homewards by Saint John Latran, saw the 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 350.  Obelisque, which with that before mentioned of the Madonna del populo, stood in the Circus Maximus, this is held to be the biggest of one stone (to wit, Ophit vulgarly granito, of which sort all the Pyramids here are) that ever came into Rome, there being a great ship made purposely for the Carriage.  
It was transported by Constantin from Alexandria to Constantinople, by his son Constantius, from thence to Rome. In Egypt it served for a Monument to the King Ramusis, from which particulars one may gather that it hath above two thousand years, and yet by the preservation of Sixtus V. who placed it here, it stands yet entire with Egyptian Characters upon it.  
The Church of Saint John Latran, 
Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 442.  so called from a palace of the Laterani, which stood there upon the Mons Caelius, is the Mother of all Churches, not for the fabric but Antiquity; 'twas founded by Constantin; it would be too long a Subject to speak of all the particulars, I will only name the chief, leaving the rest to the Prints in Italy.  
At one end of the Porch, is the statue of Henry the fourth of France, who gave large revenues to the Church. At the high Altar the Pillars of brass are very glorious. Amongst the many sacred curiosities reserved here; first the tomb of Helen, Mother to Constantin the Great, four pillars bearing a stone, which show the measure of our saviour's height, the table whereon the soldiers cast Lots. Two Pillars of the veil of the Temple wrent, The Pillar whereon the Cock crew, &c.  
Without S. John Lat: On the one side is a little Rotunda, covered with Lead, wherein is the Font, or baptistary of Constantin, with the fairest Pillars of Porphyre in Rome. On the other is the 
* Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 45  Scala Santa, containing 28. stairs, that stood in Pilat's house at Jerusalem, whereon our Saviour went and returned whilst he was in his Agony, sweating blood.  
The Scala Sancta.  
Above is the Sancta Sanctorum, and over it this verse.  
Non est in toto sanctior orb locus.  
'Tis credited that Helen sent them to Rome, with many other things of the holy Land.  
The Pope's palace of Saint John Latran, although not inhabited, yet is no less majestic than the others, wherein his S. keeps his Court.  
Having seen all the things of note, within and about Saint John Lat: we took in our way homeward 
* Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 486.  Saint Mary Maggior one of the seven Churches; and for beauty the second in Rome; The two emulous chapels of Paulus quintus, and Sixtus V. for the variety and preciousness of the stone, imitating the famous San Lorenzo of Florence.  
Before the great door of this Church is a high 
a Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 491.  column, taken out of the Temple of Peace, 'twas set up and dedicated to the Virgin (whose statue is on the top) by Paulus V wherefore it stands perpendicularly on four brass Coquatrises, the arms of the Borghesi, out of which family came Paulus quintus. On the other side of Santa Maria Maggiore is a Pyramid not so large as the others translated thither from the Mausoleum of Augustus.  
In the afternoon we saw little, only took a slight view of the Campo Vaccino, filled with Antiquities; another day in the morning, we went to the Vatican; In the way is Pons Elius, now deal Castello Santo Angelo, so called from the Castle of S. Angelo by it, which was anciently 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 215  Moles Adriani. 'Twas built by Adrian the Emperor, as a sepulchre for him and his successors; and in regard it stands yet so firm and entire, 'tis reductiuto the form of a 
* Vid. Rom. Mod. pag 3.  fortress, wherein are kept the three millions of Gold, which money may be employed on no use, unless to defend the State Apostolic, in point of arms.  
From hence looking into the Tiber, 
* Vid. Rom Antic. pag. 190.  one may discern some ruins of the (a) triumphant Bridge, yet so little are the remnants thereof, that 'tis hard to judge it to have been so glorious as it was, however, 'tis said the Jews offered his S. fiftteen thousand crowns, that they might turn the course of the Tybre for some months, and have all they could find about this Bridge, In which I believe the Jews would not have been losers, it being the custom of the ancient Romans, when they past over the Tybre in triumph, to fling in a part of their spoils taken from their enemies, yet his S. would not assent thereunto, lest the turning of the river might prove prejudicial to the City.  
From the Castello Santo Angelo is a Corridor that goes unto the Vatican, the Pope's winter palace, to which joins Saint Peter's.  
Before these two prime structures of new Rome; is a wide Court, in the midst whereof is an Esguile or 
* Vid. Rom. Antic pag. 349.  Pyramid bore upon four Lions of brass, which heretofore stood in Nero's Cirque, and was Dedicated to Julius Caesar, whose ashes were conserved at the top, where now the cross triumpheth. This Pyramid beareth no Hierogly fixes as the others, but is more firm and to sight newer.  
In the some Court is a fountain, from whence flows a stream of water, and indeed throughout all Rome no street wants a public fountain; wherefore, because they are so common I omit them.  

* Vid. Rom Mod pag. 6.  Saint Peter's Church, as Erasmus said of that at Canterbury,— Tanta sese Majestate in coelum erigit, ut etiam procul in tuentibus, Religionem incutiat. In a word, 'tis the most perfect model of decent Magnificence in the world, there being an answerable Uniformity both within and without. The Frontis piece is glorious with the Colosses of Christ, and the twelve Apostles, the Porch itself is ample enough to be a Temple; entering into the Church one admires the work of the top, which is all of squares, Levati as they call it, after the same manner with the Pantheon. In the Cupola is represented the celestial Hierarchy in pieces of mosaic, so well that to all Beholders they seem painted; In the centre of the Church stands the great 
* Vid. Rom. Mod. pag 10.  Altar, the most singular piece both for the material and art that ever human hand produced, 'tis all of solid brass, taken from the covering of the Rotunda, and afterwards melted into so stupenduous Pillars, each one whereof weighs five and twenty thousand pounds, besides other diversity of Overages, the whole so unpareld a work, that 'tis fit to stand in no cathedral, unless S. peter's.  
* The Vatican palace is such a Sea of lodgings, that 'tis said three Kings may at the same time have room enough for themselves and followers.  
In these large buildings are contained so many worthy Rarities, as the whole world affords not the like; witness first that most famous Library of Christendom; The Vatican, wherein several stanzas, or Centuries are most choice books, as well Manuscripts as Prints. At the entranee into the Bibliotheque, are the two ancient statues of Hippolytus and Aristides; round about upon the walls, are pictured the general counsels.  
Amongst other rare Manuscripts, which are to be seen here, as Virgil's, Terence, and many Roman Authors, written with their own hands, there are likewise (though of later Date) King Harry the eights Letters to Anne of Bulloyne, some in French, some in English; those beginning commonly with My Darling, or a lascivious expression, together with his book against Luther, which procured him the Title of Defender of the Faith, and at the end these two verses written with his own hand.  
Anglorum Rex Henricus Leo Decime mittit  
Hoc opus, & Fidei testem & amicitiae.  
In the Opposite Stanza is the palsgrave's Library, taken at Auspurg, and sent afterwards as a present to his S. Here also is kept the true draught of Mahomet's chest. On the wall are pictured the machines, and inventions used in raising the Pyramid before Saint Peter's with these verses.  
Saxa agit Amphion Thebana ut Maenia condat  
Sixtus & inmensae ponera Molis agit.  
Many other singularities are there in this Library, from whence passing through the Conclave, we went down into the armoury, which standing underneath, doth as it were support the Library, wherefore the Motto over the door is Urbanus VIII. Litteris arma, Armis litteras.  
The Sword must uphold the pen, the pen the Sword. There are arms, and all accomplishments for five and thirty thousand Men, Horse and foot.  
Next to these, passing through a long gallery, where the Maps of the Provinces of old and new Italy are printed at large, we came into Belvedere so called, because from thence one hath most parr of Rome in view; There are five gardens, some in Terrace, others low, in that of Belvedere, stands that vast Pine Apple of mettle, which stood on the top of Moles Adriani, with two Peacocks of the same material which stood on Scipio's tomb; The other gardens are filled with groves of Orange trees, and admirable fountains, amongst which the artificial Ship is most delectable. In the last garden in Niches, shut up are the best and most ancient statues of Rome, as that of 
* Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 20.  Laocoon and his two sons, all of one Marble; The Cleopatra, the Niobe, the Romulus and Remus sucking the wolf; The Nilus, The Tybre, all famous pieces; the first to wit, Loacoon was found in the seven halls of Titus.  
In the Vatican hall (the walls of which are of Marble) is pictured the Massacre of France, under one side Coligni & Sociorum caedes, on the other Rex Coligni necem probat. In the Vatican chapel we saw the judgement designed by Michael Angelo, a piece which cannot be valued for its excellency.  
After we had seen all the appartements of this vast house, returning homeward, we stepped into Santa Maria de Cavalli Scossi, where there is the stone on which Abraham offered Isaac, and another whereon our Saviour was circumcised, with this which ad libitum credas.  
Hic lapis est in quem Natum templo obtulit olim  
More Hebraeorum Virgo Maria suum.  
In the next Church the Pillars are reserved in wooden cases, which Saint Peter and Saint Paul were tied too, and whipped.  
In the afternoon we walked to the Emperor Justinian's gardens, and going out by Porto del Popolo, just against the Pyramid upon the wall, I espied this sentence, which intimates the inundation of the Tybre above the height of a man.  ☞ Notas Quirite hic Imprime hic Tybris fui. 
The gardens of Justinian are not so full of delights, as thronged with Antiquities, which are for the most part urns of stone, amongst which is Minu●ius Felix his; Here is besides the Emperor Justinian's coloss, and the seventh of the termini or lapides that stood on the Via Appia, the first is in the Capitol and none else to be found. There is a Volume out in print only about this garden  
From thence we went to the Villa Borghese Which without exempt may for all excellencies be preferred before any other about Rome or in Italy; Before we came into the park, we passed through a little house, where the artificial rain: with the diversity of water-works, by putting on several heads, on the same fountain is very ingenuous. The gardens and park want nothing which should make a man conceive himself in Paradise. Groves of laurels, Pines, Cypresses, ●ame hairs, deers, Peacocks, Swans, pheasants, and all recreations the world can afford. In the gardens the four Sphinxes of ancient stone are to be noted. The outside of the house is adorned with four Frontispieces of ancient Sculptures, in Basso Relievo, amongst which, Curtius falling into the Vorago, Europa beard away on a Bull, Leda sucked by a Swan are most exquisite; Within the house the Hall beset with Pillars of Porphyre, and other precious stone, Seneca bleeding to death of Jet; The great Diana that Pompey worshipped of Oriental Marble, The gladiator menacing the heavens, The hermaphrodite on the bed, and for new pieces the Daphny and David.  
Another day, in the morning we looked, into the Palazzo Borghese, hard by our lodging, which is one of the greatest, and most royal about Rome; In the Court the rows of Marble Pillars and the Arcades, are very magnificent, Here about where this palace stands, was the Campus Martius.  
From thence we went to the Palazzo Farnese, but in the way we took a full view of the Rotunda, or 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 248.  Pantheon, the most absolute entire Antiquity in all Rome, which was built by Marc. Agrippa, and dedicated to all the Gods, and is now to the Virgin and all the Saints.  
There was an Ascent into the Pantheon in the ancient times, but now one goes down into it, (from whence I collect how the ruins of old Rome lay buried in the earth; besides, if there be any digging for to lay the foundations of a house in Rome, they still find pieces of statues, heads of Pillars, and the like) yet for height it wants nothing of its first, and indeed to this day it seems rather the work of Giants, then common men. So vast are the thirteen Columns in the Porch, so stupenduous the Moles within, representing the world with its orbicular form.  
In the Porch is an ancient Sculpture of the primitive Christians, with this Inscripon, which because 'tis not in the Prints I will not omit.  
Auspiciis Eminentiss: Principis Julii Mazarini Romani, S. R. E. Cardinalis hanc arcam Marmoream Veteris ac Novi Testamenti figuris caelatam tanquam nascentis Ecclesiae adversus Iconomicos Testimonium.  
Franciscus Gualdus Arimin: Eques Sancti Stephani tenebris in lucem.  
Anno MDCXIVI.  
Huc transferri ac veluti Trophaeum erigi curavit.  
From the Pantheon we went directly to the Palazzo Farnese, which glorious fabric was raised out of the ruins of the Amphitheatre; for the commendations of the Architecture, 'tis enough to say Michael Angelo had a chief part therein. Before it are two of the fairest fountains about Rome.  
In the Court the Hercules, and the Flora, are very noted Statues. But that which surpasseth all Statues, not only here, but in all Rome (and if in Rome surely in all the world) is the 
* Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 205.  Tauro Farnese; A Bull with a dog and five persons, every one bigger than the natural cut to wonder out of one stone, the work of Apollonius and Tauriscus of Rhodes, from whence it was conducted and placed in Antoninus his baths, where it was dug up a hundred years since, as entire as if made but vesterday; and now stands in this palace astonishing all that behold it.  
In the afternoon we went to the Antiquities of the 
* Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 402.  Capitol; At the foot of the stairs, are two Lions of Ancient stone, which stood before the Rotunda, at the head, the statues of Castor and Pollux holding their horses; The trophies of Marius, The Primus Lapis, with a Ball of brass on the top; In the midst of the place is the Marcus Aurelius on horseback, of brass, and underneath the Marforius, which because of the Posture, Combente, as those of rivers use to be, 'tis supposed was made for the Rhine; Under the stairs of the Senate house, is a fountain with the statue of Rome in red of Porphyre, having on the sides the Tigris, and the Tybre.  
At the right hand, as one comes on the capital hill is the Conservatorio, so called because most of the precious Antiquities are kept there; 
Vid.  As one goes in, 
Rom. An●ic. pag. 69  are the statues of Julius and Augustus Caesar, the* Columna Rostrata with an Inscription of very old Latin; not grammatical with ours, scarce the same Dialect.  
C. Duilius exemet leciones. Macistratos. Castreis' exfocient: Pugnandod. Cepet enque Navebos. marid. Consol Primos ornavet. Navebos Classeis Paenicus sumas Cartaciniensis. Dictatored. Altod. Socieis Triresmos, Naveis, Captom. Numeis. Navaled. Praedad Poplo.  
In the Court is the hand and head of Commodus, his coloss in brass, The foot and head of the coloss of Apollo, of a most stupenduous vastness. A Pila, with the ravishing of the Sabines in Relievo, with Severus, and Mamea upon it. In the little Court going up the stairs are four admirable pieces of Basso Relievo of Aurelius his triumph.  
At the top of the stairs the old Statue of Marius, a Table of brass with the old laws, in a gallery hard by are the names of the Old and New Consuls.  
The names of the Consuls when I was at Rome were these.  
Primo Januarii: MDCXLVII.  

Petrus Prignanus.  
Julius Gironus.  
Vincentius Baccellia. Coss.  
Benedictus Masseius.   
Within the Hall, and other rooms of the Capitol, are most worthy statues, both new and old, for New those of several Popes, for old those of Cicero; Virgil; The Hercules of mettle, with the Lupus Fulmine tactus, and a hundred more things worth observation.  
Upon this same Mons Capitolinus, is a Church called Ara Celi, which stands on the same ground where the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus stood.  
The next day in the morning we went to the Palazzo Barberino, which I cannot say to be inferior or superior to the others of Rome, for indeed the palaces of Rome are so excellent, that they will admit of no comparison amongst themselves, for in what one comes short of another in one particular, it outgoes it in some thing else.  
The Palazzo Barberino is always to be reckoned amongst the chief, whither for the Structure, or for the Rarities.  
In the Court lies a broken Pyramid. In the Galleries are admirable statues, and amongst them the old, old Egyptian idol Osiris, of a black strange stone, the form of it because I never saw it printed, I will not omit.  
OSIRIS In Aed. Card. Barb.  
Osiris implies the figure of an ox, yet blind Antiquity attributed any strange shape to that Liety.  
From this palace we went up to the Via Pia, The first thing of note we saw, was a Round chapel, one of the Torrions of 
* Vid. Rom. An●ic, pag. 309.  Dioclesian's baths which are hard by, with vast columns and Fragments of Marble.  
After that we stepped into Santa Maria della Vittoria, where the ensigns hang which were taken in Germany, to wit, the cross keys and the mitre, with the motto Exterpentur. Against this Church stands the famous fountain of the great Moses striking the Rock, out of which gusheth water; The two Lions on each side were brought from before the Rotunda. The Pope's granaries are hard by.  
From thence we went to the Villa Montalto on the Viminal, saw the Water works, the Citron trees in great number, with thousand rarities. In returning, we saw the Church from whence the Arians were expelled, together with the Villa Aldobrandina.  
In the afternoon we walked amongst the Antiquities, and saw the Rupis Tarpeia, the Temple of 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 168.  Janus Quadrifrons, a solid square of Marble, with four gates which represented the four quarters of the year, or four parts of the world. About it are many Nichi, wherein stood the statues of the months, as some suppose. The place where this Temple is, was anciently called Velabrum, or Forum Boarium, as the Arco Boario there standing by Saint George's Church testifieth.  
Hard by on the mount Palatin are the ruins of the 
* Vid. Rom. An●ic. pag. 86. & 88  Palazzo Maggiore, or seat of the Caesars.  
The Valley betwixt this hill and the Aventin, was the 
a Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 326.  Circus Maximus.  
At the foot of the Aventin are Antoninus his baths. And on all sides fragments of antiquity, which show that the Romans built to last unto eternity.  
The sixth day in the morning we went to Saint Peter's, where we saw his S. carried about in pomp, with his triple crown, his breaking of the torch, with other Ceremonies of the excommunication, and his washing of the Pilgrims feet, to humble himself.  
In the afternoon, we walked amongst some Antiquities, first passing along the Tiber, we saw the 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 202.  Insula Tiburtina, which was made of the wheat of Tarqvinius his granaries, that was cast into the River after his banishment out from Rome; Secondly, the 
a Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 207.  Bridge whereon Horatius Cocles fought, when he commanded his men to cut down a piece, and to leave him to his enemies.  
A little farther, by the Via Ostiensis is the Pratum, where they used their Olympic games; and in the same meadow is the Mons Testaceus so called, because the Romans which in their Temples and Sacrifices used earthen vessels much, were wont to carry all their broken Pots to this place, which in time grew to such a heap, that at this day there is a high hill of Potshares, from whence we had a full view of all the seven hills of Rome, to wit, the Capitoline, The Pallatin, The Aventine, The Celius, The Esquiline, The viminal, The quirinal.  
Against Testaceus in the walls of Rome, just by the Gate that leads to Ostia, is a huge Pyramid of Marble, 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 225.  Cestius one of the rich Epulons tomb.  
On good Friday we went to S. Peter's, wherein his Sanctities chapel we saw most admirable Representations. And there we found opportunity to go into the Vaults, under Saint Peter's, where we saw diverse Sepulchers of the primitive Christians, that of Pope Adrian the fourth, an English man, of Porphyre. The chapel where the bodies of Saint Peter and S. Paul were interred.  
In the afternoon, we went to the Campo Vaccino, but in the way stands Saint Paul's House, where according to the Acts, 
a Act. 28. 30.  Paul dwelled two whole years in his own hired house, &c.  
The 
b Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 428.  Campo Vaccino was heretofore the Forum Romanum, filled with the best buildings about Rome, of which great remnants are yet standing. Going down into it from the Capitol, in the wall towards the foundations of the new Capitol is some part of the old, of mighty great stones. On the left is the Prison anciently Tertullianum, now San Pietro in Carcere, because he was there imprisoned.  
At the foot of the Capitol is the 
c Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 165.  Arc triumphal, of Septimius Severus supposed to be the first that was erected in Rome, amongst the work upon this arch is be seen the fashion of the Roman Aries.  
The three Pillars which stand buried half way in the ground behind the Capitol, are of the Temple of Jupiter stator.  
The seven the Temple of concord.  
The third in the midst of Campo Vaccino, The Temple of Jupiter tonant.  
Hard by there is the Vorago, whereinto Curtius threw himself, and a good way towards the Villa Farnese, the place where Remus and Romulus were found by Faustulus.  
At the other end of the Campo Vaccino, is the 
* Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 239.  Temple of Peace, where Vespasian conserved that precious Treasury he brought away from Jerusalem.  
On the Palatin the Temple of Isis.  
One morning we went to S. John Latran, where we saw the solemnity of a Moor, and two Jews baptised in Constantins Baptistary.  
From thence we went to the Villa Matthei, in the way runs Claudus his Aquiducts, and hard by is the Temple of Fannus, a very entire Antiquity, now Saint Stefano Rotundo.  
In the Villa Matthei there is an ancient Pila, a Pyramid, the coloss of Alexander, things as pleasing to the judicious, as the other delights of the gardens to the ignorant.  
The same day about the Evening, we went to the Greeks Church where we saw the Ceremonies of the Eastern Churches, and heard their Service all in Greek. On Easter day we went to Saint Peter's, to see the manner of his S. receiving the Eucharist: The rest of that day we reposed to fit ourselves for the voyage of Naples, so that now after so satisfactory a sight of this Mistress of the world Rome, we bid her adieu for a time, leaving what we now omitted till our return.  
The voyage from Rome to Naples, though it be the most dangerous passage in Italy, because the ways are so thronged with banditoes, yet in the upshot it proves no less requisite to minds inquisitive in the Roman Antiquities; no less delightful to men that would see the Wonders of Nature, than any other in Europe.  
There is all the way so many fragments of the Roman glory, that 'tis hard to judge whither Rome and Naples were once joined together, or whither Pozzuolo was the suburb of Rome.  
From whence we set forth out of Port. Lat: anciently Asinaria; a mile out of the City there are on all sides pieces of Antiquity. On the right hand we left the Aquiducts of of Ancus Martius, and Claudius, with the new of Sixtus Quintus not so stately as the old, on which the Aqua Felice runs sixteen miles. A little farther on the right upon the Via Appia, is the 
* Vid. Rom Antic. pa. 228.  sepulchre of Metella Crassus his wife, now Capo di buove from the ox's heads of Marble upon it, with many more ancient tombs.  
Hard by is the Cirque of Caracalla, where lies the Pyramid that the old Earl of Arundel would have bought, but in regard of the vastness, could find no possibility of conveying it to the Tiber, 'tis said the present Pope after his nephew's palace in Piazza di Navona is finished, will erect it there in Circus Agonalis.  
These and diverse more Antiquities we had in view, round about us, till we came unto Frescati.  
Where having dined, we walked up to old Tusculum, to see Cicero's house, where he composed that immortal testimony of Morality and learning, his tuculans Qnestions. 'tis situated on the top of a hill two mile above Frescati; so that some give the Etemology {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} from {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} vexare, because 'tis troublesome to go up to.  
Tully's house stands, that continually 'tis refreshed with gales of wind, and hath on all sides a most pleasant Prospect, even to the Mediterranean Sea, it shows itself thus in its ruins.  
Jully's Jusculan House  
In the ruin under the letter. A. was of late years found a treasure.  
B. Tully's house whereof. 10. Vaults are yet very firm.  
C. The place where his Piscina or fishpond was.  
The territory of Frescati, as it was the ancient delight of the Romans, so it is as yet covered with Gardens and Villas, about ten Cardinals having their country seats there. A place of such ravishing delights, as fitter's for the Gods to inhabit then men. Such is the Quantity of trees, which keep perpetually green, the murmuring of fountains and the like.  
Amongst the the villas, the chief, and which wonderfully declares the ingenuity of the Italians, is the Aldobrandina, which for devices in water is the first within or without Rome, I think I may say in the world. Quite through the garden, falls a Cataract, or deluge of water, towards the Embushment of which, stand two Serpentin Pillars of mosaic, from the tops of which, the water creeps down; Below in the Court is that admirable fountain, in which is represented Atlas throwing up water, which forceth artificial Thunder, and a perfect Rainbow; whilst the Elements seem here to be at difference; A satire blows a horn louder than I ever heard a man; And Pan in the Interim, plays two diverse tunes upon the organs: Things that strike astonishment to all the Spectators, which whosoever they be, must look to go away wet to the skin, as we did, and from thence went into a place called the terrestrial Paradise, and not undeservedly; for as the other inventions are moved by water, so these go by wind. At the end of it is fashioned a hill, Parnassus whereon set the nine Muses with several wind Instruments that sound by art. Underneath this hill are Organs, which played divers tunes so distinctly, that we conceived some Master was playing on them, but looking we saw they went of themselves, the cause of all this we afterwards saw; In the midst of the room, there being a Hole out of which wind issueth, so violently, that for half a quarter of an hour it bears up a Ball.  
Leaving Frescati, that afternoon we passed by Diana's Lake, and the wood famous for the fiction of Actaeon. From thence we had a woody and mountainous way unto Veletri, where we lay, Veletri heretofore belonged to the Volsci, and the ancestors of Augustus came from thence.  
The best things to be seen in it now is the statue of Pope Vrban the eight, in ●rasse, and the public fountains.  
The next morning having past down the hill, whereon Veletri stands, we came into a plain Country, and dined at Sermoneta, fifteen miles from Veletri.  
In the afternoon, about three miles from Sermoneta, we passed by a Tower, built on the top of a Rock, to defend the Country from Robbery, as they say, though I believe more to take money for passage, through the Gate below.  
Five Italian miles farther, near to the Casa Nuova, and casa Biancha at the foot of the hills, at the left are the Tres Tabernae, or three taverns, where the Brethren met Saint Paul, in his voyage to Rome; according to the Acts. They show themselves in this form now, & are indifferent entire, they being built as the other fabrics of the Romans, of great stones and Bricks in Square.  
Tres Tabernae mentioned Act: 28th  
Just before the Tres Tabernae are the Pomptine fens, and above, on a hill stands Setia, which martial saith — Pendulam Pomptinos spectare campos.  
That night we lay at Piperno, at the Post house on the other side of the Hill; but before we there arrived, we saw the Quarters of many Banditas hanged on the high way side, an argument of the great hazard one undergoes in this journey, if not a competent number together. Piperno heretofore Privernum was a City of the Volsci, noted only for the Birth of Virgil's Camilla, who came from thence.  
The next morning leaving Piperno, we passed by a Convent, with a fair ancient Church called Fossa Nova, where Thomas Aquinas died, which Place was the Appii Forum. Likewise mentioned by Saint Luke, in his description of Saint Paul's voyage to Rome.  
About four miles farther, at a high Tower we entered upon the Via Appia, that Queen of ways, which Appius in his Consulship▪ lead from Rome to Capua, and which Trajan afterwards extended to Brundisium.  
This street if I may so call it (the ruins of houses, tombs, and the like on both sides of it, testifying the former beauty thereof) is compacted of such solid stones, that after so long a succession of time, neither the continual passage of foot or horse, nor the injury of weather, hath yet consumed any part of it, unless that which past through the Pomptine fens which the water hath overflowde, the rest is very entire and firm, chiefly from this Tower to Terracina, where we dined.  
Terracina was formerly Anxur, as Livy hath it, Anxur fuit quae nunc Terracinae sunt urbs prona in paludes, it stands on the Cercean Promontory, according to that of Virgil 
— Circaeumque jugum queis  
Jupiter Anxuris oris-Praesidet.   
Upon which Servius in his comentary gives the dirivation of Anxur, quasi {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} sine novacula, because that Jupiter imberbis was there worshipped; a part of which Temple yet stands in the walls of the Dome, as the vast Marbles and pieces of Pillars witness; Before it are some old inscriptions, with a Pillar to Theodoric for having dried the fens, and renewed the way; over the old Inscriptions are these new. 
Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta  
Anxurei hoc oculis exposuere Loco.   
The Old. 
Imp. Caesar Divi Nervae Fili us Nerva Trajanus Aug: Germanicus Dacicus pontiff: Max: Trib: Pot: XVIIII. Imp. VI. Cos. V. PP. XVIII. Silices sua Pecunia stravit.  

TIT VPIO Aug:  
Optato  
Pontiano  
Procuratori ET  
Praefect: Classis  
TI Julius  
TI Fab—  
Optatus II. VIR.    
From Terraccina to Fondi, are ten miles, which way lying in the Confines of the State of Rome, and the kingdom of Naples, is the most dangerous part of all the voyage. From Terracina we first passed by the Emperor Galbas' Villa; of which take Suetonius. Ser. Galba Imperator M. Valerio Messalla, Cn. Lentulo Coss. natus est ix.. Kal. Januarii in villa Colli supposita prope Tarracinam sinistrorsum Fundos petentibus.  
Two mile farther we came to a wall with a Gate, which is the entrance into the kingdom of Naples, where on a Marble Table I read thus.  
Hospes hic sunt Fines regni Neopolitani, si amicus advenis pacatè omnia invenies, & malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges.  
From thence keeping right on the Via Appia, plain and even, we saw many pieces of Antiquity, amongst which was an ancient tomb, very entire, but whose, 'tis not certain.  
In this pleasant passage we came at length to Fundi, where we lay that night.  
Fundi, though spoilt of all signs of its Antiquity, yet still keeps its old name, as Cicer: Atic.  — Fundis accepi tuasitt eras caenans. 
'tis situated in a low plain, and as the Poet saith 
Collibus hinc atque inde Lacu simul aequore cinctum  
Citria cui florent hortis è littore Myrti.   
The Territoire about is very fruitful of Orange trees, so much that we went into an Orchard, and for twenty Citrons & about thirty Oranges, we gave the Owner a Julio, (that comes to an English sixpence) which very well contented him, and I believe if we had stood to agree upon the price, we might have had as many more for that money.  
Over a gate on the left hand at Fundi, is this old Inscription.  
EnVmmis Fronius LF DECTIEN C. Lucius, M. F. M. Runtius, L. F. Mess. Aed: Portas, Turreis, Murum. Ex SC. Faciund: Coerunt Eisdemque probarunt.  
Near to Fondi we saw the Mons Caecubus noted amongst the ancients for the good Wine it bore, as martial saith.  — Caecuba Fundanis generosa coquuntur ahenis. 
The next morning insisting yet on the Via Appia; which though mountainous in that part, yet hath on both sides Myrtles, bays, Locusts, pomegranates, and such like Verts, that grow wild in the Hedges, we came at length to an ancient Torret, built half of solid Marble; which after little examination we found to be Cicero's tomb, his Villa Formiana famous for his Slaughter, being there; Tullie●s sepulchre is now in this figure. As in the page following.  
Jully's tomb at his Vida Formiana  
This tomb stands in an Olive garden, and at that instant when we rode by, a labourer working there, dug up two old coins, which some of our Company bought. From hence we were in view of Cajeta; Of which Virgil saith, 
Tu qoque littoribus nostris Aeneia Nutrix  
Aeternam moriens famam Cajeta dedisti.   
The City lies in a Peninsula, very strong, and hard to come to by Land, but over a narrow Isthmus.  
The mountain cleft in sunder by an Earthquake (which commonly happen in the kingdom of Naples) is very hideous. The Inhabitants bear a great reverence to this place, for that they believe it happened at the same time when our Saviour was in his Passion.  
In the Church hard by the Trinitate, amongst other things to be seen, there's the corpses of the Duke of Bourbon in a wooden Chest, who was killed in attempting to surprise Rome; His Epitaph is thus in Spanish.  
Francia me dio la luze  
Espanna m' esfuerzo y ventura,  
Roma mi dio la muerte  
Gaëta la Sepoltura.  
France gave me breath,  
Spain strength to arms did call,  
Rome gave me Death;  
Gajeta burial.  
In the great Church at Gaieta is a huge Crater or bowl, now put to the use of a Font, which was dug up out of the ruins of Formia. The work so good that the Sculptor was not ashamed to put his name to it; for thereon is this.  
{non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman}, {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman}.  
At Gajeta 'twill quit the pains of climbing up the Promontory, to see the Mausoleum of L. Munatius Plancus, one of Cicero's pupils, a most entire Antiquity; over the door may plainly be read.  
L Munatius L. P. L. F. L. Pron. Plancus. Cos. Cens. Imp Iter. VII. Vir. Epul. Trump. ex Raptis. Aedem. Saturni fecit de Manubiis. Agros. Div. Sit. in Italia. Beneventi. In. Gallia Colonias deduxit. Lugdunum & Rauricam.  
From this a Chronologer may collect, it is of near one thousand six hundred years standing.  
The country from Mola to Gajeta, contains more Orange trees than any I know, except Naples itself.  
A little farther, about a mile from Mola, Formiae anciently, a Marble on the Via Appia speaks thus  
Plautius Theodo Pil: Apella Magister Augustalis Plautiae A. L. Rufae ConLibert. Concubine. Piae Plautiae Aug▪ L. Faustae Libert.  
That day we dined at Mola, where there is to be seen Cicero's groat, in which he wrote many of his familiar Epistles.  
In the afternoon eight miles from Mola, we came unto Garigliano, where the famous City Minturna stood, as a very entire Aquiduct, an Amphitheatre, with many other ruins testify.  
Having past here the river Liris, that terminated old Latium we came into the meadows of Minturna, where Marius hid himself in his flight from Sylla; at the end of those fields runs along, Mons Massicus, so renowned for the wines it produced, 'tis now called Garo, and from thence the river Liris, Garigliano, adjoining are the ruins of Senuessa, as martial — Et Senuessanis venerunt Massica Praelis.  
That night we lay in Ager Falernus, at a Village called S. Agatha, at the bottom of Sessa, formerly Aurunca.  
The Ager Falernus is all that space of ground, which lies betwixt the Mons Massicus, and the River Vulturnus, so that because of their affinity, Vinum Massicum and Falernum was used promiscuously by the Ancients.  
The next morning, we passed by Torre di Francolesse, where Hannibal being besieged by Fabius Maximus, escaped through that famous stratagem of making his enemies drunk.  
Two mile farther, we came in view of that happy plain of Campania, now Terru di Lavoro, which most Authors, as well modern, as old, extol for the most fruitful plat of earth, that is in the Universe. In a word, 'twas the Subject of Virgil's georgics.  
In which having rode five miles, we came to dinner at New Capua, which though so called in regard of the other, yet hath some remnants of antiquity. In the Cloister of a Church, are some Ancient tombs.  
In the midst of the City, at the entrance as I suppose of the Jesuits college, is this old Inscription.  
Julio Auroxonti Leonidae. V. C. Quaestori Praet. Curatori Capuensium Ob multa praeclara in cives patriamque Honori Licentiae suae merita Institutori Novorum ac Renovatori Operum Publicorum. Ab origine Patrono omni laude dignissimo Regio Competi.  
The old Capua, the delight of Hannibal, and Paragon with Rome, and Carthage is two mile off out of the way, on the left where the ruins of columns, Theatres, Temples, Porches show its former Magnificence. From Capua to Naples, the way is even, spacious, and like a garden, 'tis indeed Campania. The fertility of which is such, that if the owner have not as much Wine out of one Vine, as will load five Mules, he thinks his labour ill spent, an incredible, though true argument of the fruitfulness, of this country. In the midway stands Anversa, and eight miles farther Naples.  
This Metropolis of that kingdom, 
Naples.  which takes its denomination from thence, is a Maritimate on the Mediterranean shore.  
'tis ancient, though Neapolis, and was first called Parthenope. At this present 'tis reckoned the third City in Italy, and so great are the delights which nature hath allowed to this place, that 'tis still frequented by men of high condition, and great personages, so that it hath taken the epithet, Naples the Gentle.  
The streets of Naples are generally well paved of freestone, especially that of Toledo, very large and even. Which indeed is necessary, here in regard of the multitude of Coaches that pass to and fro. The Houses are very uniform, built flat, at the top to walk on, a notable convenience in these hot parts.  
Another like accommodation which this City hath, against the heats is the Mole, which is like an artificial street casting itself into the Sea, hither all the Gentry at the evening retire to take the Fresco.  
At the end of the Mole is the Fanal, and underneath a fountain, with the statues of the old deities of Parthenope.  
From thence one hath in view the mountainous island Capreas, the delight of Tiberius.  
Amongst the Palaces of Naplee, the Vice Kings than Duca d' Arcos is the fairest. There are three Castles, S. Elmo above, castle nuovo, Castello del Ovo below. The Churches are generally the best I ever came into, filled with Marbles, chiefly the Carthusians, the Jesuits, the Bishop's chapel.  
The only Antiquity within the City, is at the Theatins Church, which was a Temple of Castor and Pollux, the Frontispiece, or Porch of ancient Pillars, with a Greek Inscription over it (which Language this City spoke when it was called Parthenope) as likewise the remnants of their two Statues yet standing; The Inscription is this.  
{non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman}.  
It beiug May while we stayed at Naples, We saw the famous Miracle of the blood of Santo Gennaro, carried in procession.  
Naples is extremely populous, and consequently vicious, he that desires to live a retired, or indeed chaste life must not set up there; as the gardens are filled with Oranges, so the houses want not for Lemmon.  
Jusque datum Sceleri, saith the Poet.  
There were at my being there thirty thousand Courtesans registered, that paid taxes for their pleasure.  
The things within Naples, are not to be omitted, yet those about give far more satisfaction; and truly if a traveller Hyperbolise in any part of his voyage of Italy, the most fit theme he can take, are the Wonders a little distant from Naples; and first the Tractus Puteolanus scatens hominum ac naturae miraculis.  
Parting for Pozzuoloes, on the left a Suburb by the Sea side leads to the Margouline, where in the Church called Santa Maria Del Parto, is the sepulchre of Sincerus Sannazarius, with many figures of Marble excellently cut, and this Epitaph.  
Actius.  
Sincerus.  
D. O. M.  
Da Sacro cineri Flores, Hic ille Maroni,  
Sincerus Musa Proximus ut tumulo.  
Vix: Ann. LXXI. Obiit MD XXX.  
A countryman of ours in honour to that worthy Poet, hath left this paper of verses beside his tomb.  
Sonulus hendeca-Syllabicus Rithmicus.  
Valum Nobile par brevi Camoena  
Longum mensus iter; Fleam necesse  
Quorum fertur oves? ita iste fless.  
Vt narint lachrimis & uda Avena  
Seu pisces, lepida sed ille vena  
Tam pisces cecinit probe atque press  
Se tanquam placidos ut ipse adesse  
Cura praestiteriut oves arena  
Partum Virginis unus arte rara  
In sanctos rotulos modosque cultos  
Alter quem memorant Sybillae ad ar●  
Annos Vaticinatus ante multos  
Quid mirum est igitur jacere clara  
Ambos Virginis Vrbe Consepultos.  
Ad Aras  
P. Virgilii Maronis, &c.  
Act: Sin: Poetarum Princip:  
Hugo Hollandus Nobilis Cambo Britannus.  
Flevit Fixitque  
Autore vero egregio & amico Alexandro  
Hebruno Nobili Anglo Britanno.  
1626. Mart. 5.  
Returning back a little, we came to the entrance of the famous grot, over which on the left hand, stands Virgil's tomb upon a high rock, so that it is scarce to be seen by those that pass below, The Guides commonly showing a false; wherefore some few days after we walked up into it.  
Over the door of the Garden you pass through to it, is this Inscription on a Marble.  

Maronis Vrnam.  
Cum Adjacente Monticulo, extensaque ad Cryptam planitie. Modiorum trium cum dimidio circiter Vrbano VIII. annuente, &c.  
Renovanda Mem. Praesentis Concessionis singulis XXVIII annis in actis Cur Archiepiscopalis.   
Having read this we went into the tomb, now of this form and situation. As in the page following.  
A. Virgil's tomb▪ B. The entrance into the grot C. a little chapel taken for Virgil's tomb, but falsely.  
This tomb of the Prince of Poets is built in a Rotunda, or Cupola, about five paces long, within, the walls are of brick, in square after the Roman way, the outside is of Massive stone, all covered now with Bushes, amongst which three or four Bay trees, (an immortal emblem of the Prince of Poets there interred) shoot forth about the height of a man, round it lie scattered ruins, that testify its former beauty, In the rock just opposite to the entrance, where his known Epitaph of Mantua me genuit was, that being decayed, is placed a Marble, stone with these verses.  
Stainsi Cencovius. 15 89  
Qui Cineres? Tumuli haec vestigia, conditur olim  
Ille hoc, qui cecinit pascua, rura, deuces,  
Can: Rec: MDLIIII.  
What dust lies here? this Heap protects his Hearse.  
Who whilom warbled Fields, farms, Fights in Verse.  
The Crypta Neapolitana a perfect sign of the Roman Magnificence is the rocky mountain Pausylippus, cut through, very high, spacious▪ and well paved, so that for the space of a mile, two Coaches may go on Front under earth▪ in the midst is a Madonna, with a lamp perpetually burning, the words at the encounter are Alla Marina, Alla Montagne.  
At the going out of the grot, we struck towards the right, and arrived at the Grotta del Cane, which hath some innate property, to kill every living thing that enters, if not speedily cast into the lake Agnano, 15. paces distant. We saw the experiment, (as for the most part it is shown) in a Dog, which seemed to lose his vital force by degrees, but afterwards being thrown into the Lake, revived.  
Hard by are the Stow's of San Gennaro reasonable hot, with the odour of sulphur.  
Hence turning to the left, we came to Capuchins, and saw the stone whereon San Gen naro was beheaded, with Nasita a mountain in the Sea, and a little towards the right hand, is the Sulphatara, or hill of Brimstone, on which no grass or herb grows, but 'tis all white with ashes, it still casting out of several holes a continual smoke, with Flame, making the very earth to boil.  
The ground is hollow underneath, and makes a hideous noise if struck upon with a Hammer, or the like. These hills were called by the ancient leucogeis; Campus Phlegraeus, and Forum Vulcani, whose kingdom (if in any part of the world) is here about, the Fire breaking out even in the high ways. Here they compose medicinal Pots of Brimstone.  
Advancing forward, into the Suburbs of Pozzuoles, we saw an Amphitheatre, and Cicero's house, called Academia.  
Afterwards being come to the Port, we took a barque, to pass over the bay, which is round about, filled with remnants of those Romans magnificence, that lived there.  
The first place we saw after we were set to Land, was the Mercato del Sabbato formerly a a Cirque; and the burial place of the ancient Romans.  
From thence we passed through the Elysian Fields (as they call them) a plain spot of Earth, between the Mount Misenus, & the Augustines Convent of twenty Acres, and came to the ancient Misenus, so called from the Trumpeter of Aeneas there interred, the old Poets called it A erius, because of the many Sotteran Caves in it; of which many are yet to be seen.  
The chief is the Piscina Mirabili; before which is the Mare Mortuum. This Piscina called mirabili, because of the wonderful art 'tis built with, was a reserver of fresh water for the navy, which, (because this stands so near the Sea) was brought sixty mile. It hath eleven Pillars in the length, four in breadth, about four and forty in all. The material 'tis plaisterd with, in the inside is as durable as stone, yet no man knows of what it is composed, some conceive it to be of the whites of eggs, and dust of Marble mingled together.  
From hence leaving Lucullus his house at the left, we went down into the Cento Camerelle, or Nerôs hundred Chambers, where he kept his Prisoners, a most hideous place.  
Below that towards the seaside is the Temple of Hercules, the place where Agrippina, Nero's Mother was killed, the Pescheries of Hortensius, Tacitus his son's house, with many other ancient fragments which we saw though with much pains.  
From thence we took boat for Baia, where the Castle built by Charles the fifth of France is strong, going thither we could discern the foundations of Cimeria, and old Baia underneath the Sea, with the Via Consularis overwhelmed by the water, and on the shore nothing but ruins.  
Hereabouts Charon was feigned to pass with his boat. Here we set again to Land, and saw the Temple of Venus, the sepulchre of Agrippina, with diverse figures, and her palace of the same work. The Temple of Diana at the left, the baths of Trullius; The houses of Marius Pompey, Nero standing aloft.  
Hereabout the Sea water is naturally hot: Hard by we went into Cicero's baths, as gallant and entire an Antiquity as any in the Tract of Pozzuolo; These waters were so sovereign, not many years since over most diseases, that over every Bath was written for what cures it was good, of which Inscriptions some letters yet stand, but the physicians of Palermo (as they tell the story) finding those waters prejudicial to their custom, went with instruments expressly, and demolished those writings (so that for the present they are unuseful) the said physicians, being all cast away in their return.  
From these baths we went up to the Stow's of Tritola extremely hot, even to Suffocacation, yet contrary to the Grottadel Cane, that choking below, and harmless above, these cool and refreshing below, but almost stifling above.  
From thence we took horse, and past by the Lacus Lucrinus, the greater part whereof is now covered with the Monte Nuovo, which mountain (as their tradition is) was raised in one night, a mile high, from the ashes which came out of Sulfatara, and so covered the Lucrin Lake. Tommaso Fonnare an old man of Pozzuolo, that died three years since remembered of that mountains being made in one night a hundred years ago.  
After that we rode to the Lake Avernus, where abouts was the Poets Acheron or descent into hell, at one side of the Lake is the Temple of Apollo; at the other, the Sibylla Cumanas Grotte. 'tis very spacious, at the end is a Magnificent ascent where the Oracle stood, with the way that lead to Cuma, Her bath yet stands, and her Chambers painted in mosaic work, yet all under ground, as indeed most of the aforesaid Antiquities (excepting the Temples) are.  
In returning to Pozzuolo, we saw the Mount Gaurus, from whence came the best Falernum, now called Barbaro, it being altogether sterile. In Puteoli there are some Antiquities, as the Temple of Neptune, &c. In the Port are the vast ruins of Caligulas Bridge, which past three mile cross the Sea, from Pozzuoles to Baia.  
After dinner we went back to Naples, In the way we saw the Lions, Austriches, and other wild beasts and fowls, that a certain Prince keeps.  
Having reposed a day after this troublesome, yet satisfactory voyage of Pozzuoles, the next morning we set out of the quite contrary part of Naples, to see that Miracle of Nature, the Brother of Aetna, Vesuvius, so famous for its last eruption.  
On the way, almost at the foot of the mountain, (a Marble frame which are usual on the high ways, in the kingdom of Naples) relates this.  
Posteri Posteri  
Vestra res agitur  
Dies facem profert Dici nudius perendino Advortite.  
Vicies ab satu solis ni fabulatur historia  
Arsit Vesevus  
Immani semper called haesitantantium.  
Ne posthaec incertos occupet.  
Vterum gerit Mons hic moneo.  
Bitumine, alumine, Ferro, sulphur, Auro,  
Argento, Nitro, Aquarum  
Fontibus gravem.  
Seryus, Ocyus ignescet, pelagoque influente pariet.  
Sedante parturit.  
Concutitur, concutitque solum,  
Fumigat, coruscat, flammigerat, Quatit aerem.  
Horrendum immugit, boat, tonat  
Arsit finibus accolas  
Emica dum licet.  
Jam jam inititur mixtum igne lacum evomit  
Praecipiti ruit ille lapsu  
Seramque fugam praevertit  
Si praeripit actum est periisti.  
Ann: Sal. M DCXXX. XVI. Jan  
Philippo IV. Rego.  
Tum tu si sap is audi clamantem Lapidem  
Sperne Larem, sperne Sarcinulas, mora nulla fuge.  
Antonio Suares Vice Praefecto viarum.  
The Vesuvius shows itself thus from Naples.  
The mountain Vesuvius  
Upon this Hill, or (changing a Letter) Hell is a goodly country for the space of four mile on all sides, which formerly produced the excellent Graeco, made barren, being covered with a matter like Seacole cinders. Going up higher 'tis hideous to behold the deep cracks in the Earth, through which the streams of sulphur past, all about lies scattered the several materials it cast forth; Some like mettle, other like Pitch, Brimstone and the like, with such vast stones, as (I speak the least) four porters would not able to carry one of them  
Being come so near the top, as we could with our horses, we were forced to alight, and to crawl up the steeper part, which is all covered with a reddish substance, that sounds like earthen vessels, some conceive it to be Pumie stone burnt, after this we got up though weary to the top; where the Vorago is so terrifying a spectacle, that if I would paint Hell, this would be the best pattern; It is a hole about three mile in compass, and about half as much in depth, in the midst is a new hill that still vomits thick smoke, which the fire within hath raised within few years, it daily increaseth, and when 'tis grown to a fuller bulk caveat Neapolis.  
Pliny the Naturalist too Inquisitive after the cause of this intestine fire changed lives with Death on this mountain.  
In returning, as we were tired in getting up, so we went easily down, though almost up to the knees in ashes.  
This mountain was the Vltima Meta of our voyage to Naples, wherefore having with much content seen these wonderful things of Antiquity, Nature, and Curiosity; after some few days we parted from Naples to Rome, treading the same path we had before traced, At our going out of the kingdom, they made us pay five times, for our Vallees, although they could find no prohibited goods; At our entrance they let us pass quietly, without paying a farthing.  
All the way to Rome I saw nothing observable, but what I had before spoken of, only I would not omit the great quantity of Bufferos (Beasts which furnish the soldiery with their skins) that we met in the country.  
The day after our return to Rome, we walked to San Sebastiano, where a mercenary friar let us down into the Roma Sotterranea, or Rome under ground, those hallowed caverns where the Church in her Infancy shelterd herself from persecution; there is a most immense Folio out on this Subject. 'tis now indeed a City for the Dead, where in every street are piled gradually one above another, the corpse of Martyrs, to which some Monuments are added with no other Epitaphs than this, Pro Christo.  
This place is as stupendious for the rarity as venerable for the Antiquity: The natives of Rome know not how far these Vaults continue under the Earth; yet some miles they say are already discovered, with so many Maeanders, that he who adventures to enter without an experienced Guide may (as some French men did) go into his grave living, yet increase the Bill of Mortality.  
From thence we went into the Transtevere, saw first Montorio, formerly the Janiculum, and the chapel where (ut aiunt) Saint Peter was crucifified. In the Church lies buried the Count Tiron Oneille of Ireland, who coming to Rome in devotion died, very poor, yet for his good service in the Catholic Cause, hath a tombstone with this Inscription.  

D. O. M.  
Roderigo Principi Odonallio Comiti Tironalliae in Hibernia, Qui pro Religione Catholica Gravissimis defunctus periculis. In Sago pariter & in Toga, Constantissimus Cultor, & defensor Apostolicae Romanae Fidei, &c.   
From thence we went down into many rich Churches, where the Primitive Christians were martyred; In one to wit, Santa Maria Transteverana is the fountain of oil that arose, at our saviour's birth; Some stones that were tied at the martyr's feet when they were drowned, with other manner of Torments that they were put to; In the same Church are very rare pillars of Porphyre, and other stone taken from Aurelians baths. Thus every day produced a new sight to us, but I would not pass by our Voyage to Tivoli, which was as followeth.  
Setting forth out of Rome, at Porta di San Lorenzo five miles from the City, we saw a Bridge over the Teverone, built by Mamea, the Mother of Severus; A little forwarder the sepulchre of Valerius Volusi, and ancient tombs without number; On farther there's a place called Fide nates, and a sulphurous River, A Bridge called Ponte Lucano, and an ancient Tower garnished with Inscriptions, that stands for the sepulchre of Plautius.  
When we were come to Tivoli, we went to see those wonderful Eliziums, which the Cardinal d' Este at most royal expense hath there in possession; the sight whereof in my Opinion, may at this present draw as many to see Tivoli, as Rome with all her Merveiles.  
This shall be my pattern for a country seat; All Regale, and therefore I'll not omit any Particular.  
First 'tis evident, the Hill was made even, and upon that Piazza this palace was erected; which is built of square stone, and all things answerable to a Kingly Grandezza.  
At the right hand are those Gardens which they call the secret, in which there are sixteen huge Lavers of Marble, that cast forth crystalline water, in the midst of these stands a Janus Quadrifrons higher than those, which makes four more fountains that resemble Looking Glasses.  
At the left there's a sumptuous Place for all manner of Exercises, or tournaments. The Facciata or Front hath between the windows many ancient Statues, and so the first Porch with most ample steps in the ascent to the Palace.  
Before this, there's a most glorious fountain, with the Statue of Leda; And four vast and most delicious gardens in view.  
Passing down the steps which have Piles of Water on both sides, amongst the Groves there's these fountains of Tethys, Esculapius, Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora. Afterwards there's the stately Pegasus in Pamossa. The two Colosses of the Sibylla Tyburtina, and Melicerta. The Cupids pouring water out of their flasks are most ingenious, next there are some urns, upon which stand ten nymphs, and in the midst the Caves of the Sibylla, Tiburtina, and Diana, goddess of the Woods. Both aadornd with fountains, statues, Roots of coral, Mother of pearl, and paved with mosaic work.  
On the other side of the Garden sets Rome triumphant, in the midst of her most Memorable fabrics, as the Pantheon, Capitol, Cirques, Theatres, Amphitheatres, obelisks, Mausoleos, arches triumphal, Pyramids, Aquiducts, Porticos, Thermas, and the like. Neither is the River Tiber wanting; for out of the wolf and twins gusheth a rivulet, proportionable to that Representative City.  
In the next garden there's the Vccellario, where amongst the Branches of Trees, artificial Birds move their Wings and sing sweetly; on a sudden an owl appears, and they change their Melody into a chattering admiration.  
Not far from thence is the fountain of Dragons, which vomit forth the water with a most horrid noise.  
The grot of Nature where the Organs play most harmoniously by the motion of Water. In the garden that follows are diverse Lakelike conservatories of Fish, with Swans, here the meet Sudanti, the Ocean with Neptune in his chariot on Sea Horse are most stupenduous. In the last the Triton and thousand exotic Plants are to be seen.  
Tired with these masterpieces of Art, we went to that natural Cascata, or Cataract at Tivoli, which is made by the precipitious fall of the River Anien from the mountains, it rusheth down with that Fury, that there is still a thick mist over it, and by the reflection of the Sun ariseth a perfect Rainbow.  
Pliny mentioneth this River to have that Innate Quality to petrify the ground it passeth through, or any thing that lies long in it. The sulphurous stream I above mentioned flows from this.  
near to this is an old Temple, some say of Hercules, others adjudge it to the Sibylla Tyburtina, or Albunea, and the more probable, for Tivoli was anciently Tybur. Horace and many of the Roman Magnates had their Villas here, of which they show their ruins, as likewise the Sybilles' Cave.  
Returning for Rome, one may discern Preneste, and a little out of the way, on the left stands a huge moles of Antiquity, the Villa Hadriana, the heap rather of a City than a House, 'tis reported he had there the most eminent buildings of the World taken from the originals, but  
— Jam seges est, ubi Troja fuit.  
I have been long in the Transaction of these things, in and about Rome, and now end somewhat abruptly, the diversity of things, makes my memory treacherous, I can only say  
Roma Capo e Compendio del Mondo  
A cui non e cosa simile ne seconda.  
Rome of the world Compendium and Head  
Admits no like, nor can be seconded.  
The heats growing on at Rome, we left it to set up our station for the Summer at Sienna, and having already seen Caprarola, we went with the Procacccio, so that passing to Viterbo by the Strada Nuova, we saw some remnants of the Via Cassia, with Soutry where Orlando Furioso was borne, and the ruins of Gharlemaines' palace.  
At the great inn at Radicofany, we met the Marquis de Fontenay, the French ambassador in his voyage to Rome.  
A week after our arrive at Sienna, was an Opera represented on the new Theatre of Prince Mathias, with several changes of scenes, as a Garden, Sea, palace, and other Machines, at which the Italians are spoke to be excellent.  
All the time of our stay at Sienna, I filled my books more with observations of the Language, then of the people, City, or Country: only the diversity of fruits which are every day brought to Market; and sold at a low rate, argues much the fertility of Italy, as well as the great quantity of silk it produceth, and therefore deservedly called Bombycina; In June was the silk Harvest, If I may so call it, and there was such abundance, that in England I never saw so much wool, as I did here silk.  
The ninth of July the Sanesians solemnised a feast, but sore against their wills, for Cosmus the Duke of Florence's taking Sienna.  
In August on the feast of the Assumption of the Virgin, was a Race of Barbaries, which ran without Riders from one gate of the City to the Prince's palace, for a Pallium of cloth of Gold.  
The same month we went to the Jews Synagogue, and saw the Circumcising of a Child. Which the sacred Page describes.  
September the seventh we set from Sienna, to begin our return towards France, our first day's journey reached to Florence, where tarrying one day, the next we parted with the Procaccio for Venice, paying seven crowns a man.  
Six miles up the Apennin we passed by Pratolin, a famous seat of Pleasance belonging to the great Duke; and about as many miles farther we dined at Il Ponte, before which lies a most delicious Valley, environed with very high mountains.  
After dinner, about two miles farther, we passed through Scarperia, from whence we mounted more and more up the Apennins, The way in some places but straight, & on the right hand is a very steep Precipes down to the plain below. All that afternoon we rode up and down hills, which are as much fruitful, as barren, and at night we lodged at Fiorenzuolo, a fortress which stands in the midst of the mountains, at the confives of the great Dukes Territoire.  
The next morning departing, long before break of day, (as the Procaccios in Italy usually do) we perfectly discerned the flame of Pietra Mala, a mountain at the highest part of the Appinines, which perpetually burns.  
All that forenoon we had a tedious passage through the chestnut woods, till we came unto Pianora, where having dined, by a sudden descent passing a Torrent divers times, we s●nk into the fertile and pleasant plain of Bolonia, and so to the City itself, where we prevailed with our Conductor, to stay the rest of that day, and half the following, that we might take a more full view of this famous City of Bolonia, the second in the Stato della Chiesa.  
It is situated at the foot of the Appenins, 
Bolonia  the neighbouring country producing so great abundance of things necessary to human life, that it hath got the name Bolonia the Fat.  
For strength it is not much considerable, there being but a single wall without Bulwarks, Ramparts or the like, 'tis a fiter habitation for the Muses, then for Mars, the fame of that University which flourisheth there, making this Motto common, BOLONIA DOCET.  
Amongst the things I took notice of at Bolonia, the first is the general uniformity in the buildings, there running before all the houses, a very stately cloister, with Arches all of the same structure, so that a large street appears one building, which manner though it differ from the ordinary Italian way, yet is no less admirable  
Amongst other fair edefices of this City, the Pope's palace very spacious, is chief, over the Gate is the statue of a Pope in mettle.  
Before this palace is the Piazza, as remarkable as most in Italy: In the midst stands a very sumptuous fountain, where the brazen Neptune made by John of Bolonia, a famous Sculpturer is very considerable, at one end of this Place is the Dome, not yet finished.  
The great schools are said to be as stately as most in Europe. And likewise the hospitals are worth seeing The Convents at Bolonia are generally very glorious, especially S. Dominick, and out of the Town S. Michael in Bosco.  
In brief, the Bolonians agree with the other Italians, in having their houses built decently, and in their Courts, still have some Verts set, as Orange trees, Cypresses, or the like, which much pleaseth the eye of a stranger, as he passeth the streets.  
In the heart of the City, stands the Tower of the Asinelli: (Called so from a Family that raised it) some making Bolonia to represent the form of a ship, set this for the main Mast. It is grown somewhat to decay through time, and the stairs are very rotten, however, we adventured to go up to the top, and from thence we had a full view of the town below, with the streets lying in a straight line, as likewise a fair Prospect on the plains of Lombardy.  
On one side of this Tower, is another called Garisenda, which seems to fall much after the manner of the Campanile, at Pisa, some impute it to the Architecture, others say it was of the same height with that of the Asinelli; but the Citizens fearing it would fall, pulled down the upper part, and left the rest standing crooked, as at the present it doth.  
This is the sum of what I saw in Bolonia, yet berore I went from thence, I took a taste of those famous Saltsages, that are composed at Bolonia, the which are transported thence, not only into other places of Italy, but also into diverse parts of Europe, as a rare and costly dish, which adds and maintains her epithet Bolonia La Grassa.  
Leaving Bolonia for our more free entrance into the State of Venice, we took a Bill of Health.  
The first day we passed the canal, that goes to Ferrara, having our boat drawn by a Horse, in which way we went through about nine Sustegne, Machines not much unlike our sluices, to keep up and let down the water for the turning of all sorts of Milles, and the passage of boats.  
Towards Evening we passed by Bentivoglio, a Castle that gave denomination to the learned Cardinal of that name.  
Some two hours later, we came to Mal Albergo, an infamous inn, both in name and in deed, where having poorly supped, we embarked in another less boat, and having past all night through the fens, The next morning we arrived at Ferrara. 
Ferrara.   
Ferrara heretofore a duchy by itself, yet now subject to the Apostolic See, is more considerable for strength, than beauty, however it is in Italy, and therefore (secundum nos) no mean City.  
It's situation is on a plat, so that by it runs two Channels, the one towards Bolonia, the other towards the Po, it is fortified with very fair Ramparts, upon most of which are planted Allies of trees.  
Within the town are some fair buildings, as the Palazzo del Diamante, belonging to the Duke of Modena, the Castle where, in the Court are pictured the Dukes of Ferrara, and 'tis said that at the last, there was no room left for another  
Before the palace are two small Statues of a Marquis, and Duke of Ferrara; many other things are observable, as the Epitaph of the famous Poet Ariostus, and of many other famous men buried there, which my short stay would not admit me to collect.  
Our inn was the Angelo (a too sumptuous edifice to have been made a tavern) where having dined, we went by boat down the channel, and about three mile beyond Ferrara came into the Po, which is the greatest and farthest navigable river in Italy, for breadth and length much above Tiber itself; the ancients called it Padus, the Poets Erydanus, on the banks whereof they feigned that, Io transformed into a heifer was want to feed.  
About evening we came on the confines of the Venetian territoire, and supped at Corbua, a place three miles distant from that most ancient, yet now dejected City Adria, which formerly gave the name of Mare Adriaticum, to the Sea now called the golf of Venice.  
Three miles farther, we changed our bark for a bigger vessel, to carry us to Venice, and having now past thirty miles on the Po, we came suddenly by an artificial cut into the River Adice (Athesis in Latin) that passeth by Verona; and the next morning, about the opening of the day, we entered into the golf, passing by Chioza, a City in an Island on the left, Palestina on the right, with other Islands that lay ranged in a row to Venice itself, where, we arrived the twelfth of September; and being come to the Port, we (as the custom and order is) were not permitted to set foot on shore, on pain of death, till we had a ticket of licence.  
Venetia, 
Venice.  is a word never heard of in the Romans days, the original of this name being not above thirteen Centuries of years since, yet Historians generally report, that at the decay of the Roman Empire, when the invasion of the Huns and other Barbarous Nations overspread Italy; Some provident Fishermen began to build Cottages in those scattered Islands, and in process of time, others for their better security retired thither: From this poor, and low beginning (imitating her elder sister) is she grown to that height, that all deservedly call her Venice the rich.  
This very mirror of State and Policy, as she was borne about the death of old Rome, so she seems ro be hereditarily possessor of that which maintained Rome in her sovereign glory; The magnificent Genius of the People, the Gravity of the Senate, the solidity of her laws, very much consonant with those of Rome.  
Hence Venice hath this propriety above all other States; that she is a Virgin, (a commodity rarely found within herself) and more, from her first Infancy, Christian: having never yet fell from her principles, either in Government, or Religion; but still valiantly defending her Liberty against the insulting Mahomet.  
Besides the wise and Judicious Potentates, that strengthen this commonwealth, Nature hath fortified her with a strange and unusual situation  
— Mediâ insuperabilis undâ.  
Environed with her embracing Neptune; to whom, (as the ceremony of throwing a ring into the Sea implies) she marries herself with yearly nuptials.  
Hereupon our English martial admiring the situation of the Magnificent Venetians City, says to them  
Quid mirum est vestram consistere Legibus Vrbem  
Legibus exleges cum teneaatis aquas.  
No wonder if by laws your City stands,  
Since outlaw waves are chained to your Commands.  
If some casual necessity did not constrain men to build Venice, I could never conceive how so stately palaces, how so compacted a City should stand in the midst of the Sea.  
At the end just before the Chiesa San Marco, are three Standards with pedestals of brass, very exquisite work.  
At the right side from these, is the clockhouse, adorned with the signs of Heaven, with the sun and moons monthly entrance to them, and two Statues of brass that strike.  
Saint Mark's Church is not so admirable for vastness, as for the rareness of the design, and precious materials it is composed of.  
The whole facade, or Frontispiece, is beset with Pillars, of Serpentine and Porphyre, towards the top stand four horse of brass, most worthy trophies, taken (as some say) by a stratagem, out of Constantinople. And first stood in an arch-triumphal at Rome. Amongst the imagiry work on this Church, there stands a woman stroking a Dog; The Venetian Annals mention the story, of a Senators Daughter, who (her Father altogether, depriving her of society with men) had a prodigious Birth by that over familiar playfellow.  
For the inward part of this Temple, It is a little obscure within, yet most richly wenescoted with Marbles, and the whole top covered with lively pieces in mosaic work: An Art lost or unknown in these parts, and highly valued there.  
near that Church gate, that looks into the Sea, is a little chapel, and therein is an ill hewed image of the Lady, made (as their Tradition goes) out of the same rock, which Moses struck when the water miraculously gushed forth; And to make good this story, they show three little holes out of which the fountain came forth. Some probability there may be of this, an old and now scarce legible Greek Inscription, on the same stone beginneth thus—  
{non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman}.  
And underneath these Latin words,  
Aqua quae prius ex petra miraculosè fluxit oratione Prophetae Moysis, producta est, nunc autem haec Michaelis studio labitur, quem servas Christe & Conjugem Irenem.  
The construction is dubious the lines verbatim, as there I found them.  
In this same Church is kept with great reverence, the body of the city's protector Saint mark, whose winged Lion with the Motto, Pax tibi Marce Evangelista meus, is the Banner and arms of this commonwealth, In honour of this Saint, here is likewise conserud a most inestimable treasure.  
To this cathedral Church joins the Duke's palace wholly of Marble, with a Kingly Arcade of three and thirty Pillars, under which, 'tis a most comely sight to see the Venetians in their long gowns, daily consulting of State affairs.  
Just against the great Gate, at the top of the steps, stand two Colosses, the one of Mars, the other of Neptune, works of famous Sansovinus. Opposite to these stairs is a Facade of Statues, both ancient and modern.  
Above is a most royal Corridor; wherein are divers tribunals, or Courts of Justice, and higher are most gallant ascents into the Senate house, and other sumptuous Halls.  
Below in the Court, in going out, I observed the mouths of two Wells in brass, of very singular art.  
On the other side of the place is the Zecca, where they coin money, and the Procuratorio; on the top of this structure stand five and twenty Statues.  
On the seventeenth of September, whilst we were at Venice, there was a new made Procurator, (the second man in the republic) entered into his office, at which solemnity we saw the senators in their robes of Scarlet, damask, three hundred most grave, proper persons, every one speaking himself no less than an ambassador in his deportment.  
The following morning, the secretary of the State, of the Family of the Tommasini, for appearing a favourite to some Banditas, was privately strangled, and his body afterwards hung up in the place of execution, which place brings me again into my description, it being Between the two Pillars that stand towards the Canale della Giudeca. These two columns were brought out of Greece, on the one stands the Statue of Sanct. Theodorus, with the Crocodile, on the other Saint marks Lion of brass.  
This is the sum of what is to be noted within, and about the Piazza San Marco, yet before I leave it, 'tis worth the pains to get up Saint Mark's steeple, which stands by itself, eighty feet distant from the Church.  
From thence one may discern how the City lies compacted of many little Islands, separated by channels, joined by Bridges, the number whereof, if well reckoned up, comes to four hundred and fifty, and the greater part of stone. The fairest and most remarkable is the Bridge of Rialto, which, though but of one Arch, yet for the height, length, and breadth, hath nowhere a apparel.  
Upon it stand twelve shops, at each side covered all alike with lead, and behind magnificent Balustrades. This Bridge passeth over the Canal Grande, along which are the most stately houses in all Venice.  
It is a most satisfactory sight to behold the Corso in this channel, every Feast towards the Evening, to see the Venetian Ladies habited like Nymphs, and the Gondola's like so many Daulphines running a race. These Gondolas are Boats, which because of the little use of walking a foot there, are still carrying some passenger one way or another. Every noble Venetian keeps one of these Seacoaches for his family, and others there are to be hired by any man for money very genteel and commodious.  
Hence one may easily conjecture how populate Venice is; for the number of Gondolas is 40000. so that in case of necessity; the Boatmen would make a considerable army, for every Gondola hath a Rower, and the better sort too. And now I am on the water, before I set foot to land, I may visit some of the neighbouring Islands, and first Murano a mile distant from Venice.  
Here continually (excepting in August and September) are Fornaces to make Glasses, which for the variety of the work, and the crystal substance, exceed all others in the world, and are transported to all parts: out of which merchandise Venice draws infinite sums of money.  
In returning we stepped into the arsenal, The Magazine and store-house of war, Mars his warehouse. In this place the republic hath all ammunition for Sea and Land, all instruments of offence and Defence, all preparations for shipping so ready, that 'tis said they can raise a galley in four and twenty hours, and though the late approach of their common enemy the Turk, hath much impoverished this Arsenal, yet the daily labours of Artisans that work there, still restore it.  
The next day we went to the Greek Church, where at their service in their own tongue, there was a great Congregation, who used more Ceremonies, but less superstition than the Church of Rome, which calls the Greeks schismatics only, because they differ not much in exteriours from them; but will not acknowledge the Pope to be head of the Church.  
Neither have the Oriental Christians alone this Liberty at Venice, but Loyalas sons being exiled thence, the Inquisition reacheth not so far as strangers, which made us heretics (as they call us) think we were come out of the Land of Bondage, to a more secure Country.  
The day following we made a Gondola carry us over to San Georgeo, an Island with a most beautiful Monastery; The chapel is paved (as generally they are in Venice) with a reddish Marble, About the Coire are very rare Statues, and in the Cloister, sits Venice Triumphant.  
From thence we went to San Giovanni e Paulo, more in devotion to the living Ladies, then to the dead Image there worshipped.  
This Place is much frequented by the Venetian walking May Poles, I mean the women, which gives me occasion to speak of the common habits or fashions of Venice.  
The Citizens rich and poor follow all the same Mode, viz: A long black gown with wide sleeves, and a kind of skirt to throw over one shoulder, the collar always open, and a Black Cap edged with Fringe of wool.  
The Ladies have found out a device very different from all other Europaeian Dresses. They wear their own, or a counterfeit hair below the shoulders, trimmed with gems, and Flowers their Coats half too long for their bodies, being mounted on their Chippeens, (which are as high as a man's leg) they walk between two handmaids, majestickly deliberating of every step they take.  
This fashion was invented, and appropriated to the noble Venetians wives, to be constant to distinguish them from the Courtesans, who go covered in a veil of white taffeta. These fashions, because they are not so variable as ours, I have here inserted.  
Before the Church I last mentioned, San Giovannie Paulo is a Cavalier, or horseman in brass, with these words.  
Bartholomeo Coleono Bergomensi ob militare Imperium optime gestum S C. Joanni Mauro, & Marino Venereo Curatoribus An: Sal: Mcccclxxxxv.  
This is the chief of what I observed in three weeks' residence at Venice. As concerning the trade, or traffic of this City, she is without Doubt, Mistress of all others; it is she that makes rise or fall the Exchange at her pleasure.  
And this I imagine proceeds from the great and innumerable company of Jews, that are harboured here, and that enjoy the privilege of a Synagogue for every Nation; so that in their Guetta they have nine diverse ones, yet wear they a Badge of distinction, viz: a Scarlet hat. The shops at Venice are most richly furnished with Eastern merchandise, as satins, Damasks, clothes of Gold, with a world of costly Drugs, which word intimates I must hasten to the medicinal Padua.  
From Venice to Padua, because of the convenient passage by water, is one easy days journey.  
About five miles from Venice we came to Liza Fusina, where the continent or firm Land begins, here one finds commodity of going either by Land or boat, we took the latter; a most delightful Spasso on the river Brenta, which runs in so direct a line, that one may see its course four miles behind or before one, on both sides is a garden-like country, and a multitude of villas, or country houses, with Gardens of Orange trees, and other greens after the Italian way. At the close of the evening we arrived at Padua.  
Patavium was founded, 
Padua.  long before Romulus sucked the wolf, 'tis reported that Antenor flying with some force into these parts, after the destruction of Troy began this name and city; to confirm this, they yet show this Noble hero's tomb, with this Epitaph in old Characters.  
Inclitus Antenor Pat: &c.  
The words are these.  
C Inclytus Antenor Patriam Vox Nisa Quietem,  
Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumque Fugas,  
Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit Vrbem;  
Quem tegit hic humili marcaesa Domus.  
The Monument whereon these verses are engraven stands by S. Lorenzo's Church, in this figure. As in the page following.  
Antenor's tomb {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman} {non-Roman}  
Not far from this Marble Chest, are some remnants of the walls that Antenor laid; For the city is divided into the old, and the new, the old hath round about it the river, both are encompassed with strong bulwarks, upon which are planted rows of trees, very pleasant to walk amongst, though they quite hinder the view of the city a far off.  
Neither indeed (I must confess) doth Padua abound with stately houses, like the other chief Cities of Italy, yet those renowned disciples of Aesculapius that are nourished there, make it to be said both at home and abroad, Padua the Learned.  
It stands in a most delicious and fertile plain, which produceth so great abundance of things necessary to human life; that the vulgar Proverb goes Bolonia la grassa ma Padova la passa.  
By reason of this plenty of provisions, and the daily practice in physic, and the other liberal Arts this city is no less frequented by strangers, than Athens anciently was.  
And indeed those who have been students at Padua, have reason to commend the place, for by the Senate of Venice's constitution (under whom Padua is) every Nation, English, Dutch, &c. hath a Consul, enjoys many privileges, and by their matriculation may lay in provisions, without paying any excise or taxation.  
This liberty is very prevalent to draw foreigners thither, yet the ill Government of the scholars there much dissuades others from liking the place.  
It is strange to find Minerva so joined with Mars, to see students in so warlike a posture, for the common mode of the scholars is to go armed with a pair of pistols, and a stiletto by his side, this they say proceeds from some old and inbred dissensions between the Vicentines and Brescians, which two parties so fill the town with slaughter, that no man can walk the streets late at night for fear of their Chi-va li? and which is a more manifest sign of their barbarisms on the Pillars of the Porch, or Arches that run before the houses of this city, one may discern where Bullet have past; nay, so trivial is homicide amongst them that if at any time they want a body for the Anatomy Lecture, they make it a small business to kill a poor fachin, or porter to put his body to that use.  
Notwithstanding these gross abuses, yet Padua is a very worthy University. It was Vacation time when we were there, however we stepped into the schools.  
Over the Gate is the Lion San Marco, and this Inscription.  
Sic ingredere ut teipso quotidie doctior, sic egredere ut indies Patriae Christianaeque Reipublicae utilior evad●s. Ita Demum Gymnasium a se feliciter Ornatum existimabit.  
MDC.  
Within is a square Court, the building two stories of Pillars, one over another, and round about in every corner are the arms of all such as have been consuls in that University; Some in colours only, others in colours and stone, with the country, name, and year; all which is made at the expense of the Venetian, to make famous this nursery of learning.  
Above is the Anotomick Theatre a very neat, and singular invention; commodious both for the professor, and his spectators.  
Not far from the physic schools is the Palagio della Ragione, or Hall of Justice, which considered as an upper room is the fairest and most spacious in Christendom. Some impose more on the excellency of this fabric, then can be discerned by a common eye, alleging 'tis placed to the four parts of the heaven, so that in the equinoctial the beams of the sun rising, entering at the East windows strike those at the West, and in the Solstice, the rays that come in at the South, touch the opposite window, in a word, there is no part without some astronomical secret. The pictures represent the influence of higher bodies on these below. It is covered with lead, round about goes a stately Corridor of Marble.  
Over every door, is some Remembrance of those men who for their Birth have celebrated Padua. Amongst these is that immortal Treasure of History and Eloquence, Livy. In whose never fading memory there is, (at one end of this hall) a monument erected, and this old inscription added thereunto.  
We  
Tlivius  
LIVIAE. TF  
QVARTAEl  
HALYS  
CONCORDIALIS  
SIBI ET SVIS  
Omnibus.  
T. Livius 4ᵒ Imperii Tib▪ Caesaris anᵒ vita excessit aetatis vero suae LXXVI.  
There is likewise a poetical elegy, but I pass by this new monument, with all the appertenances of the same, to come to Livy's old tomb, which is there extant in this form. As in the page following.  
OSSA T LIVII Pataiuni Vnius oium mortalium judicio DISINI CVIVS PROPE INVICTO CALAMO INVICTI P. R. RES GESTAO conscriberentur  
To this Westminster Hall at Padua, joins the Podestas palace.  
The Podesta is he who represents the Senate; and executes their power; In most of the cities under the State of Venice there is one. There is likewise a Capitan Grande. He looks after the military affairs, the other the political.  
Many houses in Padua are worth seeing, as the captain's lodging in the Piazza.  
At the Palazzo di Foscari all Arena, are some Vestigia of a theatre.  
In the Garden of Mantua are divers singularities; Amongst others a huge coloss of Hercules, with these words.  
Hercules Buphiloponus Bestiarius, Qui tristitiam Orbis depuli● omnem Peramplo hoc signo Mantuae cura reflorescat.  
One day walking to some of those places, I espied a good fair chapel put to no better use than a barn, asking the reason, 'twas told me it had been a Jesuits Church; an argument that those Religious statesmen are not welcome where the Venetians sway the sword; neither indeed have the Loyalists one college in the Venetian Cities.  
As for the Churches of Padua, that of Saint Anthony deserves the first place. Before the door is a Man and Horse of brass, within is a most precious Altar, under which lies the body of S. Anthony, about is his life and miracles in figures of Marble, cut by the most famous Masters of those times, or (I think) that ever were, or will be.  
Hard by this Church is Il prato della Valle a meadow, at the end whereof stands that most wealthy and Kingly Convent of S. Justine, the best and stateliest I can remember I sawin Italy. The chapel is an incomparable piece.  
In the cloisters an Antiquary might spend a years study; for amongst the Legend stories designed on the walls, they have inserted hundreds of old Inscriptions, with the Draughts of old stones, and pieces of urns, all which were dug up out of the ground, when the Foundations of this Convent were first laid  
A little farther is the physic Garden, filled with simples, but the Euganean Hills furnish Padua more abundantly with medicinal herbs.  
These hills are in view from Padua, and have been always famous for the medicinal baths, that proceed from them.  
Having spent a week in Padua, the Gentlemen we left at Venice, came thither (viz: Sir J. G. a Northern Baronet, and my Lord B. his eldest Son) with whom we joined company to go through Lombardy, and so over the alps into France.  
From Padua we hird a Coach to Verona; In our first day's journey we had nothing to observe but the Fertility and pleasantness of the Country, neither could I imagine myself anywhere but in Lombardy.  
Had not the People, Language, Manners, seemed Italian, I might have thought myself to have been out of Italy; so great an alteration is there in the landscape betwixt this, and the other side of the Apennines.  
The meliority of either I dispute not, they being equally good, yet contrary, that mountainous, this flat. The latter is called Lombardy, and under that name is comprehended the whole plain betwixt the alps, and the Apennines.  
It was almost Vintage time when we past through this Paradise, and it made my journey much easier, to see the trees ranged in order so far as one can see, to look on the Vines embracing the elms, with such an incredible quantity of grapes, that they are covered more with Purple, then green.  Et Tellus Bacchi pondere pressa gemens. 
Besides this we lodged every night in some memorable City, where we sound good accommodation, and something observable.  
The first day some hours before it grew dark, we were in Vicenza.  
Vicenza, 
Vicenza.  in Latin Vicentia, was according to Livy built by the Galli Senones in the reign of Tarqvinius Priscus, since that time it hath without doubt suffered many changes.  
It is now under the Venetians, and stands in the Marquisate of Treves. It is neither fortified, nor capable of Fortification, it being situated at the bottom of a hill that commands the town, however the fidelity of the Inhabitants keep it in safety.  
The Vicentins delight to go abroad in the world, to see foreign customs (an humour seldom found in other Italians) so that at their return home they live splendidly, go richly apparelled, keep many followers; for which cause this city is reputed very full of Gentry, & those rich, the common title to a Gentleman here being signior Conte, as much as my Lord.  
Neither are they less noble in their Buildings then in their garb; for by the art of Palladius, the late Reviver of the Roman Architecture a Vicentin, this city is beautified with stately palaces public, and private.  
The Hall of Justice is admirable, both for the Ancient and modern structure, the Tower lofty, the Piazza most capacious of tournaments, and other assemblies of the Gentry, Who are much given to shows and Pastimes; and to this purpose they have erected a Theatre, the figure whereof I conceive to be like those of the ancienr Romans, though the materials differ, Palladius was the Inventor, as this Inscription over the stage, testifieth.  
Virtuti ac Genio.  
Olympior: Academia  
Theatrum hoc a Fundamentis erexit.  
Paladio Archit:  
Anno 1584.  
It will hold five thousand persons, the Scene is very well contrived with Statues, and Corinthian Order, the Prospective represents a Kingly City.  
Diverse like places of recreation there are, within and about the City, amongst which is the Campo Marzo made in imitation of that, anciently at Rome, for to exercise the youth in chivalry, thither the Ladies and Gallentry of the City resort, in the summer Evenings to take the air.  
The Arch or entrance into this Field will stand as a perpetual monument of Palladius that built it.  
Just opposite is the Garden of Count Valmarana, wherein the close walk of Citron and Orange trees, together with the labyrinth are things very commendable.  
Going forth at the gate di Monte, one sees another Arch of Palladius, with a most high pair of stairs to the top of the Madonna Del Monte.  
Half a mile farther by the river side (which river was in Latin called Meduacus Minor) is the Rotonda of Conte Mario Capra so called from the Cupola at the top, or likeness it hath with the Pantheon at Rome, though in my opinion it more resembles the Temple of Janus Quadrifrons, for it hath four faces and four Gates.  
Palladius made this his masterpiece; for 'tis so contrived, that it contains Geometrically a Round, a cross, and a Square.  
The Master of this house uses all strangers very civilly. His cellars are the best, and the best furnished I met with, neither is he sparing of his Wines to Travellers; As we were returning from this house to our inn, we met with him and his followers attending him, one of them who spoke French said, his Master desired to see us at his house to morrow, but our short stay would not permit us to accept of that kind invitation, I infer this passage to show the generous Minds of the Vicentines.  
The next morning we left Vicenza very early, dined at Osteria Nuova the midway: And about four in the afternoon we came unto Verona.  
'tis the vulgar criticism on this Name, 
Verona.  that if it be syllabizd, it comprehends the first letters of the three head Cities of Italy Ve-Venetia. Ro-Roma. Na. Others leave the verbal dirivation, and more strictly interpret it, that whatsoever is contained in those three Cities may be found in Verona.  
Her wealth may be compared to that of Venice; Her Monuments of Antiquity equal even those of Rome, neither is the delightful situation inferior to that of Naples.  
Thus much I must needs say, were I to see Italy again, I should make my Station at Verona, for I know no place more agreeable or commodious for a stranger.  
The City stands one part on the side, the other at the foot of a hill, behind which is a continuation of huge mountains.  
Before one side of the City lies a rich plate country; Before the other a stony Champion, or downs, wherein C. Marius gave a total overthrow to the Cimbrians.  
The River Athesis divideth the City in the midst. Thus nature hath adorned Her, neither hath art been wanting to glorify her, and this one may collect from the mighty remnants of Roman Magnificence, that yet stand within her walls. I may say with martial,  — unum pro cunctis fama loquatur Opus. 
Of the Amphitheatre at Verona, the most perfect that is to be seen this day in Christendom, the figure whereof I have here set down. As in the page following.  
The Amphitheatre at Verona Arena  
This noble work was spoilt of all its ornaments by the Barbarous that sacked Italy, yet one may easily judge, how betwixt the Arches and the columns there were statues.  
In the circuit of this Moles are three Porches, one within another, made for the spectators to go in, and out without disturbance to any one In the midst is the Arena, where the Combatants fought in an ovale form, four and thirty perches long, large two and twenty, environed with two and forty seats, which lie gradatim, one above another, still extending to the top.  
In these Cirques the vastness of Marble stones is incredible, so big that one cannot conceive how they were transported thither.  
This work was perfected by L. V. Flaminius Cousul Anno urb: Cond. 53.  
Many other signs of Venerable Antiquity are there in Verona, as arches-triumphals, ruins of Temples, Aquiducts, urns and the like. There's one Arch triumphal dedicated to Marius for his victory over the Cimbrians.  
And although this City be not now of so great a compass as Historians report, it was in the height of the Roman Empire, yet the Venetians have with great expense joined new bulwarks and walls unto the old, and it is fenced with three Castles, which make it as well impregnably strong, as delightful.  
The buildings of this City are answerable to the Italian.  
The fairest is the council house, upon the roof whereof stand exposed to the open air the Statues of Cornelius Nepos, Emilius Marcus, old Poets. Pliny the natural Historiographe, Vetruvius the Architecture, all which men graced their native Verona by their singular virtues.  
Besides these, the Learned Scaliger was of Verona, for whose sake and his Family i Signori della Scala, there is (in the heart of the city, before the inn we lay at Il Cavaletto) a stately tomb of Marble, encompassed with Iron work, in the fashion of a Ladder, which that name implies.  
These things we saw before it grew dark at Verona, which we left the next morning, having renewed our bargain with the same Coach that brought us thither, to carry us to Milan.  
At our going out of the town, I saw a Porphire tomb in a Church yard, 'twas told me that a King of the Goths lay buried there. Looking into the River Athesis, I espied a Bridge of old Roman work, and some Engines which convey water out of the river in to the city by Pipes.  
When we parted from Verona, and indeed through all the Venetian State, our Matriculations we had from Padua did us much service, for by that means none of the Guard, would dare to hinder us as they usually do strangers.  
Two miles beyond Verona we passed over the downs, memorable for the battles of Marius. About noon we came to Cavalli Caschieri, an inn two miles short of Peschiera, which is a most strong Fort of the Venetians, standing at the Embushment of the Lago di Garda into that of Mantua.  
The greater part of the afternoon, we passed by the side of the Lake, which by the Ancients was called Benaca. From Peschiera it extends itself towards the North five and thirty miles. 'tis very rough and tempestuous, as Virgil saith,  
Fluctibus & fremitu assurgens Benaca marino.  
Which I believe proceeds from its enclosure, between mountains which stop up the wind, yet being fenct so with Alps which keep of the Northern blasts, and warmed by the reflection of the sun, those hills produce great store of Olive, Citron, and Orange trees.  
The Lake abounds with fish, especially with trout, equal to them of the Lake of Geneva, which we tasted of that night at supper at Lunato.  
In the midst of the Lago di Garda, is an Island wherein stands Sermonea.  
The next day we had very bad Coach way, yet at dinner time we were at Brescia, where because of bad weather we tarried that day.  
Brescia, 
Brescia.  (by the Romans Brixia) may be called the Venetians Magazine, here is a perpetual appearance of war though they live in peace, every shop is stored with arms; In a word▪ the chief traffic of this place are Swords, Muskets, and other military Engines, from whence 'tis vulgarly called Brescia the Armed.  
It hath a plain on all sides, excepting towards the Castle which stands on Hill; behind which are very high mountains; By reason of this vicinity to the Hills the City is beautified with many fountains, a commodity which few of the Cities in Lombardy have.  
In some of the streets there runs Porches, whereby one may walk dry in rainy weather. The Torre della Pallada is of rare Tuscan structure, the Piazza is but little, yet the town house may be reckoned amongst the fairest of Italy  
The Dome was a repairing when I was there. In that is kept a sky colour cross, which they hold to be the same which appeared to Constantin.  
There is little observable, (Only some Churches) at Brescia; which we left the next morning, and dined at Vrsa Vecchio; after dinner we passed by Vrsi Novi, a strong Garrison in the Venetian Frontiers that way.  
A little farther, having past the river Oglio, we went by Soncino, the first place where we saw the arms of Spain over the Gates, a sign we were come into the State of Milan, but we soon were out of it again, for that night we lay at Crema, which is under the Signory of Venice: It stands in a plain very well fortified with Ramparts and a Mote. The Dome, the Tower, the Place, and the Podestas palace are worth seeing.  
The next morning four miles beyond Crema we entered into the State of Milan, and past by Lodi, a great City on the side of the River Ada, this City is famous, for the cheeses made there which are not much different from the Parmisano, Lodi was called by the Romans Laus Pompeia.  
From Lodi we went to dinner at Marignano ten miles from Milan; All which way the country is more Garden-like than in any part of Lombardy, the high ways are as straight as one can imagine, on both sides run channels of water, on both sides trees planted, and in the fields there is corn, Wine, Fruits, and meadows altogether, till we came to the very gates of Milan. 
Milan.   
Milan for the mighty circuit of her walls, the great number of Churches, is before any other City in Italy said to be the Great.  
The Metropolis of either France, or England, either Paris or London, go much beyond it for bigness, yet they must be looked on as Heads of kingdoms, this as the capital of a duchy or Province, besides their chiefest greatness is in their Suburbs, Milan hath none at all, but lies within a stately wall of ten miles compassc.  
'tis placed in a wide plain, and hath about it green Hills, delightful meadows, Navigable Rivers, and enjoyeth a wholesome air, the territory doth so well furnish it with all necessary provisions, that 'tis worth a day's journey only to see the Market of Milan.  
Neither doth it want Trade to support it in a flourishing condition, for 'tis so thronged with Artisans of all sorts, that the vulgar Proverb goes  
Chi volesse Rassettare Italia rovinarebbe Milano.  
For the Antiquity of this place Mediolanum its ancient appellation speaks it old, and some pieces of Roman edefices, yet standing there confirm the same.  
Before San Lorenzo's Church stand sixteen Marble Pillars, a a remnant of the Temple of Hercules, at one end of them is this Inscription put in.  
Imp: Caesari. L. Aurelio vero Aug: Arminiaco Medico Parthico Max: Trib: Pot: VII IMP: IIII Cos. III PP Divi Antonini Pii Divi Hadriani Nepoti: Divi Trajani Parthici ProNepoti Divi Nervae.  
Abnepoti 
 DEC DEC.  
Since Milan shook off paganism to embrace the faith of Christ, that glorious Pillar of the Church, Saint Ambrose was her Bishop. To whom there is a Church dedicated vulgo Sanct' Ambrogio.  
Under the high Altar supported by four Porphyre Pillars, is interred the body of Saint Ambrose; 'tis believed that Saint Ambrose stood at the gates of this Church, when he excommunicated Theodosius the Emperor, and would not suffer him to enter therein.  
Hard by is a poor chapel in a blind corner, with a Well, where Saint Ambrose baptised Saint Augustine, and began the Te Deum, as the Inscription on the wall witnesseth.  
Hic Beatus Ambrosius baptisat Augustinum, Deodatum & Alippum, Hic Beatus Ambrosius incipit Te Deum laudamus.  
Augustinus sequitur Te Dominum Confitemur.  
This place is so mean, and so little regarded, that 'tis very probably true; for 'tis incredible how the name of Carolus Baromaeus a council of Trent Saint, highly cried up at Milan, hath extinguished the memory of that learned Father.  
In S. Eustorgios Church is to be seen the sepulchre wherein lay the bodies of the three Magi; the bodies were transported to Colen in Germany, but there remaies the tomb in this form.  
Sepulchrum Trium Magorum  
Most of the Churches in Milan deserve the eye of the curious, yet all may be included in the Dome or cathedral, for the fabric; the most like ours of any I saw in Italy; yet for the materials more costly.  
'tis all of white Marble, and about it, are five hundred Statues of the same. The Addition that is now in building is very glorious, especially for the huge Pillars of Granito, a sort of Marble very common at Milan. About the body of the Church, are set up pictures of the miracles wrought by Saint Charles Barromee. And in a chapel under Ground is devoutly worshipped the body of that new founded Saint, with a Treasure of rich presents.  
As these divine buildings are glorious, so the private men's houses of Milan are not inferior to those of other Cities in Italy; The streets are of a more than common breadth, and there are very many gardens within the walls.  
The fairest palace in Milan (I may say in Italy) is the great hospital, a square of columns and Porches six hundred Rods about; fitter to be the Court of some Kings then to keep alms men in; yet no use can it be put to better than to feed the Hungry and clothe the naked.  
Next to this I reckon the Castle accounted by all Engineers the fairest, the strongest Fortification or citadel in Europe. They are very cautelous in letting strangers to see it, to cast an eye on the outworks is a crime, wherefore I omit any farther description.  
Four days past while we were visiting these things, I have set down at Milan. After this repose, we began to bethink ourselves of the laborious task we had to undertake, to get over the neighbouring mountains the alps.  
Milan is the rise for two passages, either by mount Goodard, or Sampion, the first is through Switzerland, tedious and long; the other is through Valesia more delightsome, and short.  
We meeting opportunely with a guide who had been conversant in the way by Sampion, made our agreement with him, that he should bear all our charges, for horse, Diet, and lodging, till we came to Geneva, we paying him eight pistols a man.  

The passage over the alps.  
Our first day's journey to Sesto at the foot of the alps was by Coach, we dined in the midway Alla Castellanza; Three miles short of Sesto, 'tis very remarkable to see how on a sudden the alps break off the flat country, like a wall to part Italy from her neighbours France and Germany.  
Thereabouts we had in full view the Mount San Bernardo Il grande, the highest Terrasse in Europe. And we could perfectly discern it about four English miles to out top the clouds.  
That night we lay at Sesto. The next morning before break of day, we took boat to pass over the Lago Maggiore (in Latin Verbanus Lacus) so called not that 'tis the biggest amongst the alps; but because the River Ticinus passeth through it into the Po, so that all Merchandise is thereby transported out of Helvetia, Six mile beyond Seflo, we passed by Arona a strong town in the duchy of Milan, three years since besieged by the French; it stands on the side of the Lake, and against it is Angiera.  
All that morning we had a pleasant passage going Terr' a Terra, till about three in the afternoon we came to Marguzzo a poor village at the end of the Lake.  
Here began the difficulty of our voyage, we could see nothing but a Series of rocks, heaped to the skies upon one another, yet to get over we are constrained.  
From Marguzzo we had horses to Duomo, that forenoon was not so tedious as we expected it would have been, for we rode rather through then over the mountains in a very fruitful though narrow valley.  
Having dined at Duomo we changed horse, and so the way required; being mounted we presently got two miles higher where we met with extreme hazardous way, and deep Precipices to boot. (Believe me Hannibal had a most hard task to lead an army over the Alps— Difficilis est ad Astra Via.)  
Our horses though tracked up in those paths, seemed to tell their steps and pick out their footing; however in this slow pace we got safe to Vedra six mile beyond Duomo, the last village in duchy of Milan.  
The next morning about three mile farther, we entered into the Paese de' Valesi; a most barbarous disconsolate place, a Habitation for Wolves and bears.  
Our terminus Visus was most hideous mountains, covered with snow, on all sides terrible Precipices, monstrous rocks, passages over narrow Bridges, Cataracts of water, tumbling down with such noise that we could not hear one another speak.  
This strange and unusual landscape continued not above five hours, but presently we met with a new People, a new physiognomy, a new genius, a new dress, a new Language. Yet the first words we heard, we even understood Com Heyn gets name, and Got tank heir.  
These Monticoli are in all things consonant with the Swissers stout, lusty fellows, yet very dull and ignorant.  
They wear long Breeches, and rough Bands, their tongue is a broken Dutch. That which they are most commendable for is their Honesty, a man may travel over all their Country with Gold in his hand. Their women speak more of the Male than their own, the female sex.  
Having with much pains, yet delight, because of the variety, crowded through some of the alps, we came to dinner at Sampion, at the top of the mountain, to which that Village gives the denomination.  
This mount Sampion was by the Latins called Mons Sempronius  
After dinner we had the hardest part of our journey to pass over, and then we were worst of all provided; the poverty of the place could not afford us either Saddles or bridles to our Jades, yet necessity drives and away we must.  
We were now at the very top of the alps; nothing to be seen but snow, which hath laid there beyond the memory of man, and as some say ever since the flood.  
There are Poles set up to direct the way to passengers, yet in the very path our horses went so deep that few or none of us scaped without a fall.  
In some parts of the year, as December, January and February this mountain is impassible, The best time is in September, October or November.  
After we had past over the snow which was but for four mile or thereabouts, we were forced to alight, to crawl down the steeper part of the mountain; When our Guide desired us to horse again, it happened one unruly Jade broke loose and ran away. 'twas my ill Fortune to be set upon a Mule, an untamable headstrong beast, which seeing the other Horse, a great way before, ran headlong up and down, and carried the Rider over such terrible places that all the company gave me for lost: When the horse and my Mule stayed of themselves my fellow Travellers, overtook me, so that evening we reached to Briga, at the bottom of the Sampion which was the end of our Alpine voyage.  
Hereabouts the Rivers, the Rhine and the Rhosne, have their fountains but neither are Navigable.  
The rest of our way to the Lake of Geneva, was amongst Alps but not over any. There running along a rich valley between two huge mountains.  
From Briga we lay the next night at Zion (Sedunnm in Latin) being from Briga six Swisser mile, thirty Italian.  
Zion is the head City of Valesia, the Bishop hath both the spiritual and temporal Jurisdiction. From Zion we lay at Martigni. The next morning we passed by Saint Mauritz, a little farther we went through a gate that divideth the Vallois from the duchy of Savoy: we dined at Montei, and in the afternoon we came to Boveretta, and there hired a boat, to pass by the Lake unto Geneva.  
The Lake of Geneva, heretofore Lacus Lemanus is held to be the biggest in Christendom, on one side it hath the Swissers and France, on the other the Savoyarde, and at that end where it loseth itself in the Rhodanus stands the City that christens it Geneva, where we arrived the sixteenth of October: the eighth day from the time we sat out of Milan.  
Geneva 
Geneva.  (ancienty head of the Allobroges) would be but an obscure town were not Fame her friend. Yet is she placed in such a corner of the World, that she seems to lie Geografically in the centre between Germany, France, and Italy.  
For this reason 'tis supposed Master Calvin began to preach up his Reformation, in this City before any other, not through any splendour in the place, but that some might come from all parts to follow his Doctrine.  
And now by God's protection I am in no Roman, though Catholic state, no Inquisition to lay hold of my words, or writings; I may set down that which a Marble Table hath in letters of Gold, on the town-houset at Geneva Thus.  

Post tenebras Lux.  
x Anno 1535. profligata Romana Antichristi tyrannide, abrogatisque ejus superstitionibus, Sacrosancta Christi Religio Hic in suam puritatem, Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem, singulari Dei beneficio Reposita, & simul pulsis fugatisque hostibus urbs ipsa in suam Libertatem non sine insigni Miraculo restituta fuerit. Senatus Populusque Genevensis Monumentum hoc perpetuae memoriae causa fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit: Quo suam erga Deum gratitudinem ad Posteros Testatam fecerit.   
Before their eyes were opened by Master Calvin's Sermons, The Motto of the Genevists was Post Tenebras spero Lucem, since it is altered to Post Tenebras Lux.  
God will confound great things by small, else 'tis miraculous how those seeds of the gospel, which were first sowed in this town, should spread itself into many parts of the world Maugre Rome and her adherents.  
This advantage Geneva hath by its situation, the better sort speak or understand any of these three Languages, French, Dutch, Italian, so that every week there are Sermons in them all. Amongst the Divines of Geneva, Deodatus is their great Patron, a great scholar, and a pricking thorn in the Jesuits sides.  
For the ecclesiastical Government of Geneva, it is Presbyterian such as Calvin instituted. For the political, I conceive it to depend on Aristocracy.  
Their State (excepting some private men) hath hardly wealth to subsist, yet every Citizen will lay down his life and means for to maintain their Cause, and Liberty.  
They keep contiavall watch and ward, and not without reason for their own territory about the City, exceeds not the Lands of many country Gentlemen about their houses.  
The Savoyards very often make sudden Incursions, so far that they showed us where they once had scaled the Walls, but were repulsed.  
Yet if the Duke of Savoye prohibit his Subjects to carry Provisions into Geneva. The Genevists presently can sally forth, and take their Cattle or the like by force. For there is no Castle near to counterpoise the strength of Geneva. Besides this, in cases of necessity they have the three Protestant Cantones to help them, with whom they are confederates, as this Inscription standing in the town house witnesseth.  

D. O. M. S.  
Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri Libertate Genevae restituta L. Quasi novo Jubilaeo ineunte Plurimis vitatis Domi & foris InsidIs, & superatis Tempestatibus, & Helvetiorum. Primar I Tigurini aequo jure in Societatem perpetuam nobiscum venerint, & veteres fidissimi Soci Bernenses prius vinculum novo adstrinxerint S. P. Q. G. Quod Felix ease velit DOM. tanti Beneficii Monumentum consecrarunt Anno Temporis Vltimi MDXXCIV.   
There is little remarkable in the City except in the town-house there are kept fourteen urns, which were dug up as they were raising the works of the City. S. Peter's Church is their chief.  
The houses in Geneva are generally well built, but through most of the streets is a Timber work very offensive to the eye, for it hinders the view of the houses, nevertheless 'tis convenient to keep out rain. The greatest Merchandise Geneva sends to other parts is books of all sorts. This is the sum of what I took notice of in those few days I spent at Geneva.  
From thence I made the quickest dispatch I could to Paris, and so to my Native home. But 'tis now high time to set my last period to this Itinerary of my Italian voyage.  
FINIS.    

AN APPENDIX ON THE Same Subject.  
FOr the Readers fuller satisfaction; and to leave no part of this Empress of the World undescribed; I have here annexed a captiulation of those Places which I casually omitted to see, partly collected from my discourse with Italians, partly from my converse with foreign Authors of this nature.  
In my first Digression the City Lucas is most obvious.  
This Republics dominions lie Promiscuously in those of the Duke of Florence's, and contain not above two days' journey in circuit, yet the vigilancy of the State under his Catholic majesty's Protection, defends their Liberties against all Opposers.  
To maintain their freedom more powerfully, the Luchesi have reduced this City to that strength as few in Italy can equal it.  
It stands on a flat some few miles distant from a Branch of the Apennines.  
The compass is but small (as Places of most hard access always are) the whole not exceeding three mile; which is enclosed and fenced with gallant Walls and eleven bulwarks.  
There is little observable within the City except the palace, council-hall, arsenal, and in the Dome the Volto Santo, which (pardon the tradition) was set miraculously on an Image of our Saviour, carved by Nicodemus his Disciple, whilst the Artist was surmizing after what form to express that sacred face.  
The Inhabitants are very affable to strangers (as I have been informed) so that some choose to stay there, and their Language is much consonant with the Sanesian.  
The Territory of Luca by the Country man's industry, abounds in fruits, Olives especially, which are famous here with us.  
Out of Luca towards Pistoia, in the high way there runs a rivulet of salt Water, and from the same Source (as is imagined) issue those Renowned baths; to go to which from Luca one passeth, over the River Serchio upon two Bridges of admirable Structure.  
Advancing towards Rome, 'tis worth stepping out of the way to Perugia, and Orvietta Both under the Patrimony of Saint Peter. 
Perugia.   
The first Perugia gives Denomination to the Lacus Thrasimenus, though six miles distant. Here precisely was fought that memorable battle Between Hannibal and the Romans the latter routed.  
Perusia stands on a high hill, hath but poor Walls, the citadel well fortified, the fountain, the Pope's palace, and the schools deserve seeing, yet I heard of nothing more remarkable there, than the delicious muscatelle Wine.  
Orvietta is a great town on a mountain too; There is in this City one most singular Piece to satisfy Curiosity, and that is the Well, made so that they go down by one side and come up the other; It hath a hundred and fifty stairs, and seventy windows. The Dome is such as all Italy hath few the like, 'tis built of Pietra Teverina, and on the Front are most exact Ouerages of Marble.  
In or about Rome I know no place I missed, excepting Bagnaia on this side and Albano on the other; the latter deserves seeing, if not for the Antiquity, yet for the good Wine; one of the best sorts in Italy.  
However Florus saith Alba Latii Caput before Romulus had laid his city's foundation: Besides the tombs of Ascanius, and of the three horatij yet stand there.  
There are many ensigns of the Romans greatness, and places often cited amongst ancient Writers; As Canna, Sulmo Ovid's town, Brundisium, with many others towards Calabria, but few or none steer that course.  
Those that make the circuit in Italy, far il Gyro as they say go to Venice by the way of Loreto.  
Between Rome and Loreto one passeth by divers Remnants of Antiquity, as first the ruins of Otricoli, than Narnia, which martial Describes thus.  
Narnia Sulphureo quam Gurgiti Candidus Amnis  
Circuit Ancipiti vix adeunda Jugo.  
Out of the town there are most huge arches of a Bridge standing over the River, made by Augustus out of the Sicambrian spoils, the Reliquiae declare it to have been the work of some flourishing Empire.  
'Tis of Marble, One Arch though not entire is two hundred foot broad, a hundred and fifty high, nor can I think martial spoke of any other Bridge in the precedent Epigram, which he concludes thus.  
Sed jam parce mihi, nec abutere Narnia Quinto.  
Perpetuo liceat sic tibi Ponte frui.  
There comes an Aquiduct into the City fifteen miles in length, at the embushment are three fair fountains of brass.  
Beyond Spoleto runs the River Clitumnus, the water whereof the old Poets feigned, made the Oxen that drank of it, white, as Virgil in his georgics  
Hinc albi Clitumne Greges & maxima Tauri,  
Victima saepe tuo persusi Flumine sacro.  
Romanos ad Templa Deûm duxere triumphos.  
Keeping on the Via Flaminia you come to Foligni, of old Forum Flaminii; some step out of the way to Assisa famous for the birth of Saint Francis, institutor of the Capuchian Order: but the nearest is to go to Recanati and so to Loreto.  
Great was Diana of the Ephesians, 
Loreto.  great is the Lady of Loreto. Loreto is of itself but a little Bourg or Village, yet by the noise it makes through Christendom, especially in the Catholic Regions, 'tis as much frequented as Saint Peter's chair. he's no zealous Romanist that hath not made one pilgrimage thither, or sent some Offering to the Virgin here adored.  
The Church is on an Eminence; In the midst with great reverence is kept the Cottage or chamber (as they tell) where the Virgin Mary lived and conceived her heavenly Offspring. The house is environed with a case of Marble most curiously worked, their Legend runs that this lodging was brought out of Palestina by the Angels, and placed here at the Adriatic shore: Why not at Rome I wonder? To confirm this story they show the Window where the angel entered at the Salutation.  
Here is without dispute the greatest treasury in Christendom, and is daily increased by new Oblations from Catholic Princes. Which the Turks and other pirates well know, and would make incursions were the place as weak, as it is little.  
Though little it deserves a longer survey than my speed will admit. I pass now towards Ravenna, and first Ancona presents itself to my view.  
Ancona the greatest maritimate under his Holinesses Jurisdiction is mountainously situated, yet before hath a most capacious and commodious Port; ancient without any farther enquiry; that arch-triumphal erected by the Senate to Trajan is so firm and solid an Antiqual, as Rome herself can scarce show the like, 'tis of Parian Marble, each stone of a prodigious bigness, cemented with no mortar, but with Lead. In the Front these words are legible.  
Imp: Caesari. Divi. Nervae. F. Nervae Trajano. OptimO. Aug. Germanic. Daci. Co. Pont. Max. TR. Pot. XIX. Imp. ix.. CosT. VI. P. P. Providentissimo Principi. Senatus P. Q R. Quod Accessum Italiae. Hoc etiàm addito, ex Pecunia sua Portum tutiorem. Navigantibus Reddiderit.  
On the right side. 
Plotinae. Aug.  
Conjugi Aug.   
On the left. 
Divae Marcianae  
Sorori Aug.   
Ancona gives the name to the Country Marca d' Ancona, anciently Ager Pisenus, all under the Pope, though the next Cities Senogallia and Fossombrone belong to the dukedom of Urbin.  
This dukedom is at the present vacant, both the Pope and the Duke of Toscany lay claim thereto, 'tis thought there will be a public Contest shortly.  
After Fossombrone you find the River Metaurus and the Via Flaminia cut through a Rock. Urbin is a City amongst the mountains of very hard access, Raphael d' Vrbino purchased it a great fame by his deserving pencil, of which many excellent Pieces are here extant, one especially, his own Picture drawn by his own hand. The palace, the Bibliotheck, and Castello durante ten miles off may be seen if you have leasu●e. Before the Place are the statues of the Dukes.  
Pesaro succeeds Urbin a neat City in a plain under the same Duke, the Prince's palace and his other seats of Pleasance (but above all Mille Fiore) deserve any one's sight.  
The next City of Note is Ariminum, famous for Caesar's ingression when he passed the Rubicon of which take this.  
In the Piazza at Rimini, heretofore Forum Ariminense upon the stone whereon Caesar stood when he made a speech to his soldiers.  
C. CAESAR  
Dict. 
 Rubicone Superato 
 Civili Bello 
 Commilit. suos hic In Foro are. 
 Adlocut. 
  
1555. per Cos. restit.  
At the East Gate coming from Pesaro, there's an old decayed Arch of Marble built by Augustus where the Via Flaminia ended. Over the Marecchio is a bridge began by Augustus, and finished by Tiberius, as the title thereon intimates.  
Arimini stands, on the seaside but the Port is very bad, the place is fair, graced with the Pope Paulus Quintus his statue in brass.  
Betwixt Ariminum and Cesena near to Cesena on the high way, upon a white Marble is yet visible the Decree of the Senate when Caesar passed the Rubicon, and said— Eatur quo Deorum ostenta & inimicorum Iniquitas vocat, jacta sit Alea. The edict runs thus.  
Jussu mandatuve P. R. Cos Imp: Mili. Tyro. Commilito. Manipularive Cent. Turmaeve Legionariae Armat. Quisquis es hic sistito vexillum, Sinito, nec citra hunc Amnem Rubiconem, Signa, Arma, Ductum, Commeatum, exercitumve traducito. Si quis hujusce Jussionis ergo adversus jerit feceritve, Adjudicatus esto hostis P. R. ac si contra Patriam arma tulerit, sacrosque Penates e Penetralibus asp●rtaverit.  
Sanctio Plebesci Senatusve Consult: Vltra hos fines Arma proferre liceat nemini.  
This stone was restored Tem: Pauli Tertii. Upon one of the sides is writ (as may be supposed by the Restorer)  
Quae fluit Vnda brevis Gallorum terminus olim  
Ausoniaeque fuit; Parvulus hic Rubicon.  
Advancing towards Ravenna you pass by Cervia, where before the cathedral an ancient sepulchre, made like a Pyramid with two Infants ingraved thereon is to be noted: nearer Revenna is La Pignada that notable forest of Pines which furnisheth all Italy with that sort of fruit.  
Revenna a City very venerable for its Antiquity stands in a plate very low, 
Ravenna.  three miles from the Sea side; It hath one great inconvenience, a scarcity of good water; which martial knew when he wrote this epigram  
Sit Cisterna mihi, quam Vinea malo Ravennae  
Cum possum multo vendere pluris Aquam.  
In the Porta Speciosa for the beauty of the Architecture called Aurea this Title is to be read  
Ti Claudius. Drusi. F. Caesar. Aug. Germanicus. Pont. Max. TR. Pot. Cos. 2. Des. 3. Imp. P. P. dedit.  
At Ravenna 'tis worth the pains to step into the Church of Saint Apollinary built by Theodoric King of the Goths. There are two rows of most noble columns brought by the same King from Constantinople.  
Before the Church of Saint Vidal there are some old Idols of the Pagans, and in the Convent is the sepulchre of Galla Placidia.  
Hard by are the ruins of Theodoricks' palace. In the vessel of a fountain stands a Statue of Hercules Horarius the like not in Italy.  
The Dome of Ravenna is very sumptuous. The Tradition is that, Saint Apollinary praying God would show some miraculous sign to whom he would commit the bishopric of Ravenna, at a solemn Convention, the Spirit came down in the likeness of a Dove upon one; the Window whereat the Dove entered, they conserve with great Devotion.  
In Saint Francis his Convent, is buried the great Italian Poet Dante, with this Epitaph made by himself.  
Jura Monarchiae, superos Phlegetonta lacusque  
Lustrando cecini, volverunt fata quousque  
Sed quia Pars cessit melioribus Hospita castris.  
Actoremque suum petiit felicior astris.  
Hic claudor Danthes patriis exornis ab Oris  
Quem genuit parvi Florentia mater Amoris.  
These are the most considerable rarities at Ravenna.  
I will now make a speedy cut through those parts in Lombardy I left out.  
near to Padua is Arquato, where Petrarch lived and past to the other life, they show his house. On a fair tomb is this his Epitaph.  
Frigida Francisci lampis hic teossa Petrarchae  
Suscipe Virgo Parens, animam sat Virgine parce  
Fessaque jam terris coeli requiescat in arce.  
These Cities in Lombardy, as Mantua, Modena, Parma, Turino, the capitals of four dukedoms are seldom visited by strangers; and indeed the splendour those Princes live at drowns the rarities of the Cities, but I have been so superfluous in curiosities, that I fear Delight should turn too tedious thererefore in brief.  
Mantua stands in the midst of a Lake, which renders the place inaccessible.  
There are to come to the City two great Bridges, the one named San Georgio, the other Molini.  
Gradaro is a very fair Church, as likewise the Dome, where there's two excellent Pieces of the counsels held at Mantuo.  
The Duke hath divers seats and palaces about the City.  
As the Fontana where in a hall there are ranged about wild boars Heads, that Vincenzo Father of this present Duke Ferdinand killed with his own hand.  
The Favorita and the Thea, and above all the Hall of giants, where by strange and unusual art, how low soever one speaks, at the corners 'tis intelligibly to be heard, and those in the midst hear nothing.  
The Duke's palace is of a most vast extent, Virgil's house is showed near the City, no memorial but his Statue  
— Man tua me genuit.  
In the rest of the Cities of Lombardy, there is little should draw a Traveller out of his way to be seen, but the Courts of their Princes, till he comes to Turin the Duke of Savoys amongst the alps where he may shut this book.  
1648.  
The End of the Appendix.   

Errata.  
PAge 24. line 11. for one Read own. p. 42. l. 12. for è r. &. p. 44. l. 7. for distance. r. distant. p. 75. l. 5. for Antonius, r. 〈◊〉 p. 86. 4. for some r. same. p. 86. l. 4. for Printed r. painted. p. 11. 7 l. 8. o●it s. p. 206. l. 11. for Mar. r. Marmore. p. 206. l. 9 for Constitution r. Institution.   

Imprimatur.  
NATHANIEL BRENT. Junii 28. 1648.