THE HISTORY OF THE Propagation & Improvement OF VEGETABLES By the concurrence of Art and Nature:  
Showing the several ways for the Propagation of Plants usually cultivated in England, as they are increased by Seed, Off-sets, Suckers, Truncheons, Cuttings, Slips, Laying, Circumposition, the several ways of Grafting and Inoculations; as likewise the methods for Improvement and best Culture of Field, Orchard, and Garden Plants, the means used for remedy of Annoyances incident to them; with the effect of Nature, and her manner of working upon the several Endeavours and Operations of the ARTIST.  
Written according to OBSERVATIONS made from Experience and Practice:  
By Robert Sharrock, Fellow of New College.  
Oxford: Printed by A. Lichfield, Printer to the University, for Tho: Robinson. 1660.   

TO THE HONOURABLE ROBERT BOIL Esq The most worthy pattern of true Honor. AND Learned Promoter of true Science.  
SIR,  
IT is a saying in the Civil Law, That a thing which is any Mans own, cannot be made more his by any new Act or Deed: The consequence of which, is, that the Dedication of this Piece to you will be merely nugatory, since by all right it is already yours. For it is not long since I imagined no more being either Author, or Compiler of any matter on this subject, then of doing any other thing which I have neither fancy nor fitness to. But you were pleased to judge me able, and (which obliged me to this task) to propose it unto me as your desire that I should make an essay of that ability, in writing somewhat even on this subject, that might be of Philosophical and common use. To have questioned your judgement herein, might have stained me with too much arrogance, and to have been careless of your pleasure, with unworthiness and want of good Manners. Remembering therefore those respects I own to Honour, Learning, and such persons as study its advancement and promotion, I could not deny this poor endeavour, the product of which arising originally from your own act, I thought fit should be delivered over to your pleasure, since to you, as its primary cause (which is its prime commendation) it ought to belong.  
And Sir, If it may not be troublesome unto you to receive some brief account of this action, and the Fortunes which happened to me in pursuance of your satisfaction therein, you will give me leave to acquaint you, that it having been your Honour's express desire, that this Piece might extend as far, and be as comprehensive and full, as my present Experience, Knowledge, and Recollection of the matter of Vegetable Propagation should permit: I gave myself the trouble to run over with my eye, all Books I could precure of these subjects, not intending to trust any, but thereby to be put in mind of the particulars, concerning which, I had no reason to have a Register ready in my head. Here first my fortune was to find a multitude of monstrous untruths, and prodigies of lies, in both Latin and English old and new Writers, worse in their kind than the stories in Sir john Mandevel's Travels, or in the History of Friar Bacon and his Man Miles; or else what may be more ridiculously removed not only from truth, but from any semblance thereof. And which moved me most at this very season, when we esteemed the World to be now awaked, I found in the Shops Authors newly set forth (I hope against their own wills) who seriously professed to have made a select choice of Experiments of this nature, and to report nothing, but what from observation and experience they have certainly found true, yet deserving not to have the credit of Wecker and Porta, Professions in such Papers, which seem to me at no time proper, but when the persons credits, together with their Books, are jointly to be set to sale. You easily believe that I am not free to follow these Examples, for then, first, I must abuse your Noble Name, by inscribing it to a most unworthy Discourse, and then (which is too common a fault) traduce as many Readers, as ignorance and simpleness of nature hath made credulous.  
But as to those Authors, in whose relations I found any thing of truth, I have done them this right, That where ever I could relate an Operation or Experiment in their words, with truth and fitness, I spared to coin new (desiring to supplant no Author in his credit, nor to purloyn his reputation) though I had learned the truth of the same thing from the testimony of my eyes: Having indeed some quarrel at the fashion of ordinary Writers, who study in nothing to benefit Learning, but by giving new words to old matter.  
I have left out none of the Heads proposed in the Catalogue, which I presented you with, a year since, except the last, which you desired might show the methods and ways of keeping useful Vegetables without putrefaction, and the preparing them with their several parts and products for humane use. This at present I thought necessary to forbear, for I found the matter too much for one Chapter, and my leisure too little to make a Book thereon: nor durst I esteem my Observations such, as might enable me to write an adequate Treatise on that subject, which reaches in compass the largest, and as I firmly believe (however the Animal and Mineral Kingdom abound with great and potent Medicines) not the worst. Part of the Pharmacopoea, and many particulars beyond; but rather think fit to employ myself some more years in the Experience and Practice of Preparations, and take the pains of collecting and trying such intelligible and probable processes as shall come to my hand, either reported heretofore, or used now, especially in our Nation, for fitting matters to Alimental, Medical, and Mechanical use, before I shall imagine to have the least hand in that History, which may as well be learned by such as are concerned to know it, from Modern Dispensatories, and other novel Writers. But the perfection of that History, with correction of processes capable of amendment, is, in my estimation, a design and work worthy of the Care, Patronage, and Governance, and fit to be carried on by the interest, if too tedious, for the Pen and Pains of your Honor.  
As to the form and composure of matter under those Heads, I must make it a particular business to beg your pardon; for I find it even in my own judgement exceeding rude, and it could be no otherwise, when the Revise of the Press, was, for a great part, the first review made of my own Writing; and indeed, the whole piece in every part seems destitute of beauty, and without any thing of great worth, value, or nobleness. For I find, that the operations themselves, and other matters that do belong to the subject in hand, and so capable to come under this History, are for the most part common, and devoid of curiosity: Nor durst I embellish their plainness with Stories taken from our Learned and Profound Writers of Natural Magic, because I intended, as no very imperfect, so likewise a true Inventary of what the power of man, at this present time, on this subject, is, with the Co-operation of Nature, able to produce: For these reasons, and perchance because of another piece then under my hand, to which I had more propense affections. I was exercised in this writing, not without some reluctancy and untowardness of mind; and it surely had proved to me a piece of mere drudgery, had not the hope of giving you satisfaction, and making this a testimony of my obeisance and humble submission to your Judgement and desires inspirited me, and let a lightsomness into my thoughts. What I have written, I shall not commend, by any Prefaces, to any Reader, though I shall give him here some things new, and of my proper Observation: I know that many, by their own Interest and (that great power) Temporal Profit, will be tempted to give it the reading. Neither shall I, in imitation of some Modern Alchemists, for ostentation, bid them go; and by the improvement (which I hope may be some to most Readers) be charitable to the poor: Hoping, that for God's sake, they will rather (as they are bound by Obligations infinitely more high) be thereto moved; nor need I excuse myself to them for any deficiency in this Writing, you having engaged yourself to be the Proprieter thereof, and by your acceptance of this poor Piece, greatly obliging,  
SIR, Your Honours unfeignedly Devoted in all humble and affectionate observance. R. SHARROCK.   

To the Author on his two late published Pieces, The Hypothesis of the Law of Nature, and, The History of Propagation.  
SIR,  

OF late to th' privy Chambers of the mind  
You led's, to which a glimmering ray had shined  
From God th'Abyss of light; but much ado  
There had been made to stop that ray out too.  
Here 'twas you drew a Curtain, and we saw  
The sacred Tables of our Nature's Law;  
The frame of which was made of polished glass,  
Where each Soul, fair and foul, might see its face:  
And there hung Justice Scale, ready to weigh  
All actions, good and bad, just as they lay:  
Justice herself we saw not, for 'twas said,  
That long ago her Ladyship was fled.  
But Duties way-marks, up and down there stood,  
And the forgotten bounds of Ill and Good.  
Much Furniture besides; all by th'abuse  
Of new invented fashions, out of use.   

Now Sir, you're walked abroad, you teach to Sow,  
And Plant, and Graft, and show how all things grow  
By th'best improvements; how to harness Art  
With Nature, and to make her draw her part:  
How Nature varies all her Scenes, and makes  
Things orderly and useful for our sakes.  
You trace her steps, and make us plainly see't,  
To be great Providence that guides her feet:  
Thus when at home, and when abroad, you can  
Contrive to honour God, and pleasure Man.   
Will: Parker, Scholl: of New Coll.   

A Gratulation unto the Author, upon his History of the Propagation of Vegetables.  

we'll blame Antiquity no more, that she  
Has swallowed Solomon's Phytology;  
Those long-lost sacred Relics you revive,  
Limning the nature of each Vegetive.  
Nature's most hidden store, you open set,  
As if y'were keeper to her Cabinet.   

Midst Plants and Trees you muse, thence we confess,  
England again hath got her Druids:  
Your Garden, a new Academy; can  
Be made Lycaeum, or turned Vatican.   

So the famed Epicure, long since did try  
To make his Garden teach Philosophy;  
Where he, by shuffling Atoms, represents  
All changes; a Cator of Elements  
He then laid out, and (what was yet more high)  
Boldly discarded Heavens Deity.  
You slight that play, and show there's no sequence,  
No suit of things, without a Providence.  
Each Herb's engraven'd with a Heavenly Frame,  
Like th' Hyacinth enstamped with Ajax's name:  
As a mysterious Rabbin's wont to spell  
The name of God, from a dark Syllable:  
So you read him in's secrets works; Each clod  
Speaks th' God of Nature, makes not Nature God.   

May these your Vegetives, thus ordered, prove  
A Vocal Forest, or Dodona's Grove.  
To speak your worth, that so our non-plused cry  
May be assisted by Dendrology.   
Ed: Spencer Fell: of N. C.   

The CONTENTS.  

CHAP. I. Of Propagation by Seed.  

NUm. 1. Of propagation of Vegetables in general, with a Preface to the Discourse. Pag. 1  
Num. 2. A Catalogue of Plants that may be increased by Seeds: with a question touching Maidenhair, Harts-tongue, and Plants of like nature. Pag. 4  
N. 3. The Seasons of sowing particular Plants, with proper Animadversions to this head. Pag. 10  
N. 4. Examples of Sowing, with some particular directions for some choice Vegetables; with general Observations for the manner of sowing. Pag. 16  
Examp. 1. From Mr. Parkinson, directing skilfully the ordering of Tulips, in their propagation by Seed. ibid.  
Examp. 2. Of Anemones. Pag. 18  
Examp. 3. Of Clover-grass. Pag. 19  
General Observations for the manner of Sowing. Pag. 23  
Num. 5. Of variety of kinds, different in colour, taste, smell, and other sensible qualities, proceeding from some seeds, and what Plants they are that bring seeds yielding such variety, whence the beauty of Flowers chief arises. Pag. 25  
Num. 6. Some other relations touching transmutation, and the possibility of a change of one Species into another, examined in particulars of the Vegetable, Animal and Mineral Kingdoms. Pag. 28  
N. 7. Of preservation for Seed, with advantageous directions therein. Pag. 33  
N. 8. The manner of growing by Seed, Historically set down, with some Philosophical conceits thereabouts. Pag. 35  
Num. 9 Of the cause of greenness in the Leaves of Vegetables. Pag. 40    

CHAP. II. Of Propagation by Off-sets.  

Num. 1. A Catalogue of Plants which may be propagated by Off-sets and Suckers arising with Roots from the Stool and Root of the Mother Plant. Pag. 43  
N. 2. The way of making Off-sets by Art. Pag. 45  
N. 3. Rules for direction in taking off Suckers, or Off-sets. Pag. 46  
N. 4. Examples of planting by Off-sets in Licorice, Hops and Saffron. Pag. 47, 48  
N. 5. Variety of colours, in what flowers, from what Off-sets. Pag. 49    

CHAP. III. Of Propagation by Stems, Cuttings or Slips.  

N. 1. A Catalogue of Plants this way propagable. Pag. 50  
N. 2. Explication of the manner of propagation by stems cut off from the Mother-plant, or slipped, by Examples and Rules for particular direction. Pag. 51  
N. 3. Experiments made of the success of the cuttings off divers Plants set in Water. Pag. 53  
N. 4. The manner of growing by cuttings. Pag. 55  
N. 5. Of propagation by the sowing small and almost insensible parts of Vegetables. Pag. 56    

CHAP. iv Of Propagation by laying.  

Num. 1. What Plants are this way increased. Pag. 57  
N. 2. The example of this manner of propagation. ib.  
N. 3. Requisites for the manner of laying. Pag. 58  
N. 4. Of propagation by Circumposition. Pag. 59  
N. 5. Of the manner of growth by circumposition, and whether thence an argument may be made for the descension of Sap. Pag. 60    

CHAP. V Of Insitions.  

N. 1. Of grafting in general, and particularly of shoulder-grafting, Whip-grafting, Grafting in the cloven, and Ablactation; showing the manner of doing these several operations. Pag. 61  
N. 2. What Plants take on different kinds, with divers Experiments and Stories on this subject. Pag. 66  
N. 3. Rules for Grafting. Pag. 68  
N. 4 Kirkers Experiments concerning Insitions examined, and opposed by new Experiments. Pag. 73  
N. 5. The manner of growing by Grafts, Historically set down, with addition of some Philosophical considerations. Pag. 74    

CHAP. VI Of the ways for, and Seasons of setting Plants.  

Num. 1. Of cultivated Plants. Pag. 79  
N. 2. Of the setting of Woods, Fruit-Trees, and Plants uncultivated. Pag. 81  
N. 3. Whether any Vegetables may be set so as to grow in the Air. Pag. 84    

CHAP. VII. Of the means for the Improvement and best culture of Corn, Grass, and other Vegetables belonging to Husbandry; and of the ways for removing the several annoyances that usually hinder such advantage.  

Num. 1. Of the annoyances to Land, and the Impediments that usually distemper it, to the disadvantage of oh Husbandman. Pag. 86  
N. 2. Of the remedies proper to cure the excessive coldness and moisture in Lands, and the ways of improvement thereby, in grounds subject to these distempers, by draining, Pigeons and Poultry dung, Urine, Soot, Ashes, Horse and Sheep dung: O Ground cold and dry, and how these soils may be appliable thereto. Pag. 87  
N. 3. The ways of improvement of dry, light, sandy, gravelly, flinty Land, by floating, Marle, Chalk, Lime. Pag. 92  
Num. 4. Remedies for accidental annoyances and hindrances of Improvement, particularly the ways to destroy Fern, Heath, Ant-hills, Moss, Rushes, Restharrow, Broom, or any such Weed or Shrubs, that infect the ground: Whether liming of Corn prevents blasting, the effects of that and Brine in Improvement: Concerning Moles, and the ways to destroy them or drown them; a way of Antipathy, as to this effect, in Animals and Vogetables to the Bodies of their own kind, when they are in the way of corruption: of the change of Seed; and Mr. Blith's way of preserving Corn from C …, Rooks, etc. Pag. 97    

CHAP. VIII. Of the Means of Improvement and best culture of of such Plants or Flowers as are usually cultivated in Gardens or Orchards, and of the ways used for the removing such annoyances as are commonly incident to them.  

Num. 1. Of the annoyances in general incident to Garden Plants. Pag. 103  
Num. 2. Of defences of choice Plants from cold. Pag. 104  
N. 3. Of shade requisite to sundry Plants, especially when young, for their defence from the Sun and Wind; and of watering, necessary to cultivated Plants. Pag. 107, 108  
N. 4. 1. Examples of the best Culture of Hops, and ways of ordering them after they are first set, taken out of Mr. Blithe. Pag. 109  
2. Mr. parkinson's way of ordering the Seedlings of Tulips grown. Pag. 111  
N. 5. Of annoyances by Plants growing too thick and near together, and of the remedy thereof, and improvement by pruning Trees, and setting them at great distances; plucking off the young Germens of Garden-flowers, to make the rest more fair; of the sizing of Turnips, Carrots, Parsneps; of Weeding. Pag. 114  
N. 6. Of Pismires, Earwigs, Canker and rottenness in choice Plants, Caterpillars, Mossiness, Bark-binding, Bursting of Gillyflowers. Pag. 122  
Num. 7. Of improvement and melioration of divers Salad Herbs, by blanching or whiting, from the French Gardener, and Mr. P's Observations. Pag. 125  
N. 7. Of Acceleration and Retardation of Plants, in respect to their Germination and maturity. Pag. 129  
Num. 8. Of melioration by Richness, or other convenient Minera in the Soil, for the feeding and better nourishment of several Plants: Of artificial Begs, and the change of Seed, as a means to bring fair Flowers: Of Exossation of Fruit, or making it grow without Stones. Pag. 134  
N. 9 The conclusion of the Treatise, with one or two choice observations of the wise and good Providence of God, which may be seen in the admirable make of Vegetables, and fitness to their ends, which are not generally taken notice of, but are, with many more, overseen by men busy in the affairs of the world. Pag. 139     

ERRATA.  
Page 8. col. 2. l. 17, r. Scorzonera. p. 10. l. 5. are but young p. 11. l. 15. properata satio, p. 27. l. 6, 8, 9 r. Serotine, p. 33. l. 21. r. so that to bear Seed yearly, is general to all, unless p. 61. l. 3. and I am well contented, p. 94. l. 22. as possible p. 117. l. 20. adapted p. 149. l. 18. Vestments.   

THE HISTORY OF Artificial propagation of Plants.  

CAP. I. Of Propagation by Seed.  

Num. 1. Of Propagation of Vegetables in general, with a Preface to the Discourse.  
THe Illustrious and Renowned Lord Bacon, in his Discourse concerning the advancement of Learning, reckons it among the Deficients of Natural History, That the Co-operation of Man, with Nature in particulars, hath not been observed; and that in those Collections which are made of Agriculture, and other manual Arts, there is commonly a neglect and rejection of Experiments, familiar and vulgar, which yet to the interpretation of Nature, and which I shall add, general profit, do as much, if not more conduce, than Experiments of a higher quality. The same noble Person, in his partition of Philosophy, complains of the want of an Inventary of what in any subjects by Nature and Art is certainly, and may be undoubtedly wrought. I believe his Lordship hath had many of his mind in former, has now, and is likely to have in future ages; for amongst those few Writings extant on these Subjects, some prove altogether useless, as being so full of their natural Magic and Romantic Stories, that we know no more what to credit in those Relations, in the Natural, than what in civil History we may believe of King Arthur; Guy of Warwick in ours; or of Hector and Priam in the Trojan Story: Others elevated in their Fancies, writ in a Language of their own, addressing their Discourse to the Sens of Art, speaking rather to amuse, than instruct, and prove like blazing Stars, that distract many, and direct few.  
Many of those who would write for Universal Instruction, either know the things that might make up the matter of their History, but want the skill to draw up such an Inventary, as his Lordship requires, as common Tradesmen and Artisans; or else indeed are learned enough to draw up the writing, but stand aloof from the knowledge of most of the particulars therein to be engrossed; which is the ordinary case of us, such of us as have pretensions to Scholarship.  
I being necessitated by my obligations and respect to a Person truly Noble, to give some account of the particular effects of Man, co-operating with nature, in the matter of our English Vegetables, as they are improved by Husbandmen and gardiner's, desire to undertake no more, but to give a sincere endeavour, That the way of the Artist be set down, and the effect of Nature thereon; in the first of which, I intent my directions so plain, as if appointed for the instruction of some Artists rude and untaught Apprentice: and the second's, if not so homely, yet as easy and evident, being a little disgusted with any thing intended for the use of Philosophy, when overgarnished with Rhetorical Tropes, which like Flowers stuck in a Window for whatsoever intended (either cheat or ornament) certainly create a darkness in the place. Behemenical, Paracelsian, and such Phrase as many Alchemists use, I must for the same reason avoid.  
In the drawing up the Inventary, I will study that it may be true in all parts, and not to mingle, according to the example of Pliny, Weeker, Porta, and many more, both Latin and English Writers, any false relation, without its distinguishing Character; and if it be not perfect, it shall be for want of skill, or present remembrance of particulars.  
The end of the Artist is to Propagate and Improve: To propagate, is to multiply the individuals of each kind: And to improve, is to bring them, being propagated, to a more than ordinary excellency and goodness. The ways of increasing the particulars of each kind, are, 1. By Seed, 2. By off-set, taken from a Mother-Plant. 3. By laying the Branch of a growing Plant down into the Earth. 4. By bearing up a Soil to it. 5. By Stems set without roots. And lastly, By the various ways of grafting and insitions.  
Concerning all these, as likewise the preservation and melioration of things propagated, I shall endeavour to enumerate what Plants may be increased by each of these ways, and to show how the operation in each may be performed, and what the product is that by nature thence ordinarily ensues: Definitions are hopeless in this matter, useless too, and it might be harmful: If I should define Sowing, to be the casting of Seed into the Earth, in such manner, and at such time, when in the surface of the bed the earth would so ferment, as might be proper to the explication and further germination of the Seed and increase of the Plant, there might a world of controversies arise about the particulars therein contained; and yet all that is there would be useless, till the particular Plants, and the manner of the operation, and time required to the sowing of their Seeds be first declared: I shall therefore wave all such endeavours, and hasten to what may rather prove for use than pomp.   

N. 2. A Catalogue of Plants that may be increased by Seeds.  

Aconite.  
F. Adonis.  
Allissanders'.  
Alkanet.  
Alaternus.  
Alliaria.  
Almonds, the bitter from our English Fruit, serving for his own kind, or to make stocks for Aprecots and Peaches.  
Ammi.  
Amaranthus.  
Angelica.  
Anemones.  
Aprecots.  
Aparine.  
Appletrees of all sorts.  
Apples of Love.  
Arsemart.  
Armerias.  
Archangels.  
Aristolochia.  
Ash.  
Asparagus.  
Asphodels.  
Avens of all sorts.  
Balm Apple.  
Balsamina.  
Basil.  
Balm.  
Barberies.  
Bay-Trees.  
Beech.  
Beans.  
Bears-cars.  
Betony.  
Bell-flowers.  
Beets.  
Bistort.  
Bitter Almonds.  
Blite.  
Blue-bottle.  
Bloodwort.  
Bryonies.  
Bulbous Violets.  
Borage.  
bugloss.  
Burdock.  
Burnet Saxafrage.  
Burnet.  
Burrs.  
Buckthorn.  
Bullets of all sorts.  
Cabbage Plants.  
Campions.  
Carnations.  
Calamint.  
Camomile.  
Caucalis.  
Carrots wild.  
Carrots.  
Caraway.  
Carduus Benedictus.  
Centory  
Celandine.  
Chickweeds.  
Chondrillas.  
Chervil.  
Cherries.  
Chestnuts.  
The Cornelian Cherry.  
Cichory.  
citruls.  
Ciches.  
Claries.  
Coleworts.  
The Seed of Clematis, but it comes not up till the second year.  
Coleflower.  
Corn of all sorts.  
Coronopus' Ruellii.  
Comfrey.  
Corianders.  
Columbines.  
Convolvulus' major, minor, and other Bind weeds.  
Cornsallet.  
Coronopus.  
Most sorts of Cowslips.  
Crown Imperial.  
Cranes-Bills.  
Crowfoot of most sorts.  
Cucumbers.  
Cumin.  
Cyclamen.  
Cypress from outlandish seed.  
Dandelion.  
Dame's Violet.  
Some Daisies.  
Dyer's Weed.  
Dittaender.  
Devil's bit.  
Dittany.  
Dill.  
Docks.  
Dogsbane.  
Earth-nut.  
Egrimony.  
Elecampane.  
Endive.  
Epatioa's.  
Eupatorium cannabinum.  
Evergreen Privet.  
Ewe.  
Feverfew.  
Eennel flowers.  
Fennel.  
Fenugreek.  
Figwort.  
Figtrees.  
Fibberds.  
The Fir-tree.  
Some Flags.  
Flowers-de-Luce.  
Flos Adonis.  
Flaxes.  
Fleabane.  
Fluellens'.  
Foxgloves.  
Frittelaries.  
French Mallows.  
Fumitery.  
Garlic.  
Garden cresses.  
Germanders.  
Ginny.  
Gillyflowers.  
Gourds.  
Most of our English Grass; to this end, Husbandmen use Hay-dust (as they call it, in which lie the Seeds of their grass) to sow upon such Grounds as they mean to turn from Fallow into Pasture, or where they would have the Grass grow thicker.  
Grain of all sorts.  
Groundsel.  
Groundpine.  
Gromwell.  
Hawkweeds.  
Hartwort.  
Hawthorn.  
Haselnuts.  
Henbane.  
Hemp.  
Hellebores.  
Hereules his all heal.  
Hyacinths.  
Horseradish.  
Horned-Poppy.  
Honywort.  
Horehounds.  
Hound's Tongues.  
Holyoke.  
Honysuckles.  
Holly or Holme.  
Hypericum.  
all Hyssopes.  
Indian Pepper.  
Ironworte.  
Juniper.  
Kidney-beans.  
Knapweed.  
Knotgrass.  
Ladysmocks.  
Lamb-lettuce.  
Lark-spurs.  
Lavender.  
Langdebeefe.  
Leeks.  
Some Lillyes, though but few.  
Lychnis Calcedonica.  
Linum umbella●um.  
Lovage.  
Lupins.  
Marioranes of all kinds.  
Mandrakes.  
Mastic.  
Common Marygolds.  
Mallows.  
French and African Marigolds.  
Marshmallowes.  
Masterwort.  
Maple.  
Malacotones.  
Melons.  
Melilot, and its kinds.  
Medlars.  
Mercuries.  
Molyes.  
Motherwort.  
Mustard.  
Muscipula.  
Mulleines.  
Mulberries by seed from hotter climates than our own; for our heat ripens not the seed.  
Myrtles likewise.  
Narcisses.  
Dead-Nettles.  
Stinging Nettles.  
Nolimetangere.  
Night shades.  
Nigella.  
Oak.  
Onions.  
Some of the Orchis or stones.  
Orach.  
Orpines'.  
Paronychia.  
Pansies.  
Peucedanum.  
Parsley.  
Parsnips.  
Panax Herculeus.  
Pellitory.  
Pennyworts.  
Peonyes.  
Pease.  
Pease everlasting.  
Pears.  
Peaches.  
Periclimenum.  
Pinks.  
Pimpernel.  
The Pitch-tree.  
Plums.  
Plantains.  
Wild and garden Poppyes.  
Pondweed.  
Pompions.  
Primroses.  
Ever green Privet.  
Pulsatillas'.  
Purslane.  
Quinces.  
Radish.  
Ragworte.  
Rampions.  
Radix-cava.  
Reeds.  
Ribwort.  
Rosemary by Outlandish seed, sometimes by our own.  
Roman Nettles.  
Some Roses, the Flower being not gathered, but left to seed.  
Rocket.  
Rushes of many sorts.  
Rue of all sorts.  
Some of the Saffrons, and Mede Saffrons, whose seed lies under the earth.  
Satyrions.  
Savory.  
Sabina baccifera.  
Scorpion grasses.  
Scurvy grass.  
Scorodonia.  
scabious.  
Scorzoneca, but it comes up with some difficulty.  
Seseli aethiopicum, or Hartwort.  
Sesamoides,  
Shepherd's purse.  
Skirrets.  
Sloes.  
Smalladge.  
Sneezewort.  
Snapdragon.  
South istle.  
Sorrels.  
Spiderwort.  
Spinach.  
Spurges of many kinds.  
Spignel.  
Stitchwort.  
Starreflowers.  
Stock gillyflowers.  
Starrewort.  
Flowers of the Sun.  
Sword-flags.  
Swine-cresse.  
Swallow-wort.  
Sycamores.  
Tarragon.  
Teasels.  
Terrae-glandes.  
Thorney Apples.  
Thorough-wax.  
Thyme, both the Winter and Summer sort.  
Thistles.  
Tobacco.  
Thlaspies.  
Toad-flaxes.  
Tragopogon.  
Trefoil, and its kinds.  
Tulips.  
Turnips, and all its wild kinds.  
Tutsan.  
Venus' Looking-glass.  
Vervain.  
Vetches.  
Violets.  
Vipers-grasse.  
Virgine-bower.  
Umbilicus-Veneris.  
Vines from outlandish seed.  
Water-betony.  
Water-lilly.  
walnuts.  
Winter-cresse.  
Winter-cherries.  
Willow-weeds.  
Woolfs-bane.  
Wormwood.  
Woodroof.  
Woodsorrel.  
Woad.   
There is a great controversy concerning Harts-tongue, Maydenhair of divers sorts, Scolopendrium, Fernes, and other Plants, whose property is to have the back of the leaf lined with a brown dusty substance, whether this be a seed, or only particular mole, and character of Plants of that nature.  
I dare not disbelieve this, when perfectly ripe, to be a true seed, because divers, very experienced persons (as Mr. Bobart particularly) affirm, that they have seen the small Plants, or Seedlings at a distance all round the Mother-plant grow up as is ordinary from shed seed of other plants, and by Miscroscopes, the likeness of this dust to other seeds is apparently seen.   

N. 3. The Seasons of Sowing.  
First, the most natural time of Sowing is that which Nature itself follows (viz.) when the seeds of their own accord fall into the ground.  
At this season may be sown all stony seeds that can endure the Winter, as Cherries, Plums, Peaches, Apples, Pears, likewise all Nuts, Buckthorne, Ash, Oak, and most wild English Plants, though they may as well be sowed any time before the Spring.  
The seed of hot, and sweet herbs, as Thyme, Savory, Marjerome of some kinds, and other hot herbs, if they get any reasonable strength and growth before the frosts, do well enough; also Angelica seed, Scurvey-grasse, and the seed of Bears-ears, Aniseed, Fritellary, Crocus; and, for aught I know, all the rest of Bulbous-rooted flowers: So Tulips and Anemones thrive best, and come soon, being sowed after the seeds are gathered, or in Autumn: For many October does well, but care must be had to keep tender Plants from Frosts and the violence of Winter weather, when they but young from the seedlings. If you doubt the nature of any seed, divide your quantity, and sow some of it in the Spring, some before the Winter.  
At this time also must be sowed divers Plants, for that by experience 'tis found, that being sowed in the Spring they will not grow at least not that year: Of this kind Myrrhis, or sweet Chervill, and all Rubarbs, which easily grow then, but fail being sown in the Spring.  
The mistake of the time has made some admire, that when they with care had sown Angelica seeds several times together, this never grew; on the contrary, the Seed being shed would grow in any place, never so uncouth or stony; nay even carried away by the water, would grow wherever it was lodged in the banks, and that well and lustily; whereas the reason of the difference was in the season, for the laborious Artist kept the seeds till Spring was his hindrance, whereas better instructed Nature would have committed them to the earth many months sooner. 'Tis a true Proverb, properata satio solet saepe decipere, sera semper.  
Some seeds are sown at the breaking of the Frost, and the very first beginning of Spring, and that upon a hot bed, for the greater security and speed of the Plant to be propagated: So the early Radish, the Sensitive Plant, Maracoc, Balm Apples, French Marygolds, Musk-melons, all Cucumbers, African Marygolds, the Marvel of the world, the Indian Cress, or yellow Larksheel, Lettices that they may be had early.  
The hot Bed is made with horse-dung laid four, five, or six foot high, and of the same breadth commonly, increasing or diminishing the quantity of the dung (which uses to be fresh, as it comes from the stable, mingled with stolen Litter, Hay, etc.) according as you would have the heat greater or less, upon which bed of dung you lay fine mould, five fingers breadth in deepness or thereabouts, compassing it round with hay-bands which keep the dung together, and hinder the steaming out of the heat by the sides; then staking it up with stakes, and putting bended sticks in the manner of a very low roof to hold up tilts that are put to secure the Plants, the hot bed is perfectly finished. Those that use Capglasses, or Casements made to lie upon a frame over their beds, nevertheless must use, though not tilts, yet covering with straw, litter, or the like.  
Asparagus and Chervil are best sown in Winter before Christmas, or shortly after, and in the beginning of Spring without any hot bed. In February, or afterwards, are sown Parsnips, Leeks, Onions, Aniseeds, Carrots, Radish, spinach, Larks-spurs, Marygolds, Caerefolium, Corn-sallet, and with the first of these the Rounseval pease.  
Colliflowers and Cabbages in the middle of February, Musk-melons somewhat after, or then for a venture. 'Tis observed by all I have enquired of, that the less of the Winter the Cabbage or Collyflowers feels, the more subject 'tis to Caterpillars. In March or April (or according to some with us, from the beginning of February; or, if the Frosts break, any time in January) Carrot, Radish, Tobacco, Fennel, Cresses, Skirrets are ordinarily sown.  
In April, Marjerome, Basil, Coleflowers; for by often transplanting and care you may have Coleflowers from seed, sown in the Spring, though it be very far gone even to June or July the same year, Pinks, Armeriaes', Convolvulus, Kidney-beans, Lupins, Hyssop, Lavender, Stock-gillyflowers, Thyme, Hemp.  
About the latter end of April, Purslane, Clove-gilliflowers, Carnations, Basil, Rosemary.  
About Midsummer sow the early Pease; to be ripe six weeks after Michaelmas.  
Note that our gardiner's, though there be some peril, choose to sow early, because they have much advantage by all sorts of forward commodities; so Turnips sowed early, many run to seed, yet one good then, is worth three at another season. The same may be said of Pease and Carrots, which by cold are spoilt many times; yet it is observed by some, that oftentimes, whether by difference of ground, or other accident, the Bean latter sowed will overtake the former, and so in some sorts of Pease.  
Many seeds are best sown about August, so Turnips, and the black Radish, for a peculiar reason; which is, being sown sooner, they are apt to run up to seed before Winter, and not to fill the root at all. Onions for winter provision, Lettuce and Corn-sallet for the same occasion; spinach too, always upon that account, though otherwise they may be sown with the first. Nay, our Gardiner's here in Oxford sow Turnips in April, and so forward till the Winter.  
Cabbage plants are sowed commonly about August; and the first Coleflowers, that they may before Winter be so grown, as to be transplanted at greater distance, so to abide till the Spring. I have known some, when frost has spoiled the winter Cabbage-plants, to have furnished themselves from plants raised in the Spring upon a hot bed.  
Many seeds must be gathered a little before they are throughly ripe with the stalks on which they grow; for should it abide until the full maturity in the Garden, by wind and weather great part of the seed would be shed, which will easily perfect its ripeness as it lies cut upon its stalk, being laid any where within door upon a cloth or mat where the Sun comes. Of this kind is Lettuce, and most of those seeds that arise from the stock with a woolinesse.  
There are many Plants that will grow in all times of sowing, and therefore are sown many months, one after another; so Radishes, and Spinach, and Pease, which are sown with the first in the Spring; and so month after month till Autumn. Those Lettuce which abide the winter are wont to be transplanted to Cabbage in the Spring, even as Cabbages are with admirable success.  
Our gardiner's, that they may have Cucumbers to sell one under another, plant them in hot beds from February even till May.  
Pease are sown from the beginning of November (or by some a fortnight before, though with some danger of the biting frost) and so forward till after Shrovetide.  
Rounsevals, if sowed never so early, will scarce come before the latter part of the Month of June.  
Husbandmen generally use to sow Wheat under furrow in the Autumn; but I have seen it with good success sown in the Spring, and harrowed in after the manner of sowing Barley; the crop being as good as any other times upon the same ground, after the usual country procedure.  
Some seeds must be sown dry, not after rain or watering: Of this kind is Myrrhis seed, Basil, Scorzonera, and all such as being wet run to a Mucilage.  
Many times they sow divers seeds in a Bed together, as Radishes and Carrots, that by such time as the Carrots come up, the Radishes may be gone. Upon beds newly set with Licorice they sow Onions or Radish, or Lettuce if their Licorice plants or ground be but weak, so as not quickly to cause a shadow with their leaves. London Gardiner's sow Radish, Lettuce, Parsley, Carrots, on the same bed, gathering each in their seasons, and leaving the Parsnips till the Winter; before which time they are not esteemed good, or wholesome.  
Note, that where your grounds are very warm by reason of hedges, hot beds, dunghills, etc. that may abate the power of the frost, seeds may be ventured into the ground much sooner than otherwise in ordinary places.  
Cabbage seeds and Coleflowers are sowed in August, or so timely as to be exactly well rooted plants before winter; and this is the best way: Or are sowed after, so that they are transplanted in the time of cold. This way is hazardous in the winter, by reason of the nipping Frosts, and chargeable, in that they require much attendance, and covering, and uncovering, which those plants that are confirmed before winter do not. Secondly, they are more subject to Caterpillars in the Summer; but the way of raising of them by hot beds in the Spring for Cabbages is the worst way of all, and most subject to the peril of that vermin.  
Those Plants of the Spring sowing, that you sow later than ordinary, require to be the more watered and shadowed from the heat.  
Those in the Spring that are sowed earlyer than ordinary, require the more to be defended from the cold.  
Those in the Autumn, that you prematurely sow, are to be watered and shadowed the more. Those which you sow late are to be better defended from the Winter till they have gotten strength.   

N. 4. Examples of Sowing with some particular directions for some choice Vegetables.  

Examp. 1. From Mr. Parkinson; directing skilfully the ordering of Tulips in their propagation by seed.  
The first example I shall give you out of Mr. Parkinson: The time (says he) and manner of Sowing Tulip-seed is thus, you may not sow them in the Spring of the year, if you hope to have any good of them, but in the Autumn, or presently after they be through ripe and dry; yet if you sow them not until the end of Octob. they will come forward never the worse, but rather the better: for it is often seen, that overearly sowing causeth them to spring out of the ground overearly, so that if a sharp spring chance to follow, it may go near to spoil all, or most of the seed: We usually sow the same years seed, yet if you chance to keep of your own, or have of others, such seed as is two years old, they will thrive and do well enough; Especially if they were ripe and well gathered: you must not sow them too thick, for so doing hath lost many a Peck of seed; for if the seed lie one upon another, that it hath not room upon the sprouting to enter or take root in the earth, it perisheth by and by; Some use to tread down the ground where they mean to sow their seed, and having sown them thereon, do cover them over the thickness of a man's Thumb, with fine fifted earth, and they think they do well, and have good reason for it: For considering the nature of young Tulip roots is to run down deeper into the ground, every year more than other, they think to hinder their quick descent by the fastness of the ground, that so they may increase the better. This way may please some, but I do not use it, nor can find the reason sufficient; for they do not consider that the stifness of the earth doth cause the roots of the young Tulips to be long before they grow great, in that the stiff ground doth more hinder the well thriving of the Roots than a lose doth: and although the roots do run down deeper in a lose earth, yet they may easily by transplanting be helped and raised up high enough. I have also seen some Tulips not once removed from their sowing to their flowering; but if you will not lose them you must take them up while their leaf or stalk be fresh and not withered: for if you do not follow the stalk down to the root, be it never so deep you will leave them behind you.  
The ground also must be respected, for the finer, softer and richer the mould is, wherein you sow the seed, the greater shall be your increase and variety. Sift it therefore from stones and rubbish, and let it be either fat natural ground of itself, or being muckt, let it be throughly rotten: some I know to mend their ground do make such a mixture of grounds, that they mar it in the making.  
Ferrarius bids that the seed be sown in Septemb. (as soon as rain shall make the ground fit) half a finger's breadth in good Garden mould, not to be removed in two years after, at which time they are to be removed and placed in several beds, according to their several bigness, where in 4 or 5 years they will bear their flowers.   

Example 2. Of Anemone's  
Within a month after the seed of Anemone's is gathered and prepared, (in August, says Ferrarius, or three days before the full Moon in Septemb.) it must be sown, for by that means you shall gain a year in the growing, over that you should do if you sowed it the next spring: If there remain any Wooliness in the seed, pull it asunder as well as you can, and then sow your seed reasonably thin upon a plain smooth bed of fine earth, or rather in pots or tubs, and after the sowing sift or gently strew over them some fine good fresh mould, about one fingers thickness at the most for the first time; and about a month after their springing up, sift, or strew over them in like manner (this is a necessary circumstance) another finger's thickness of fine earth, and in the mean time if the weather prove dry, you must water them gently and often, and thus doing you shall have them spring up before winter and grow pretty strong, able to abide the sharp winter, in their Nonage, in using some little care to cover them loosely with Fearne, furze, or Bean-straw or any such things, which must neitherly close to, nor too fare from them.  
The next Spring after the sowing, or which is better the next August you may remove them, and set them in order by Rows with sufficient distance one from another, where they may abide, until you see what manner of flower they will bear.  
Many of them being thus ordered, if your mould be fine, lose and fresh, not stony, clayish, or from a middin, will bear flowers the second year after the sowing, and most or all of them the third year, if your ground be frêe from smokes and other annoyances. Nay Mr. Austen of Wadham Coll. a skilful florist, assured me that he has had Anemones from the seed sowed in summer, that were in flower within ten months of the time of their sowing.    

N. 3. Clovergrasse being esteemed as great an improvement as any our ground is capable of: I shall add such special directions as are given for the ordering thereof: Sir Richard weston's observations and rules are as falloweth.  
Clovergrasse-seed thrives best when you sow it in the worst and barrenest ground. Such as our worst heath ground in England. The ground is thus prepared for seed.  
First pair of the heath; then make the paring into little hills: you may put to one hill as much paring as comes off from a Rod or Pole of ground, which is the square of sixteen feet and a half. The hill being sufficiently made and prepared (as they do in Devonshiring as we call it) are to be fired and burnt into ashes. And unto the ashes of every hill you must put a peck of unslake Lime; the Lime is to be covered over with the ashes, and so to stand till Rain comes and slakes the lime. After that mingle your ashes and Lime together, and so spread it over your land. This done; either against, or shortly after rain, plough and sow; ploughing not above four inches deep and not in furrows, but as plain as you can, and to make it yet plainer, harrow afterwards, and that with bushes under your Harrows.  
The ground being thus prepared you may sow your seeds. An Acre of ground will take about ten pounds of Clover-grasse-seed, which is in measure somewhat more than half a Peck. The chief season for sowing it is April or the latter end of March.  
About the fift of June it will be ready to be cut. It yields excellent hay. The time of cutting it will be more exactly known, by observing when it gins to knot: for that is the time: And ere the year be done, it will yield you three of those crops, all of them very good hay; and after you have thus cut it the third time, you may then feed the ground with Cattle all the winter, as you do other ground.  
But if you intent to preserve seed, then must you expect but two crops that year, and you must cut the first according to the foresaid directions, but the second growth must be let stand, till the seed of it be come to a full and dead ripeness, and then must you cut it, and thresh the tops, and so preserve the seed, you shall have at least five bushels of seed from every Acre.  
This seed thus threshed off, there will be left long stalks, these your Cattle will eat; but when they grow old and hard, you are to boil those stalks and make a mash of them, and it will be very nourishing either for Hogs, or any thing that eat thereof.  
After the second cutting for seed, you must cut that year no more; but as it springs again, feed it with Cattle. One Acre of it will feed you as many Cows as six ordinary Acres, and you will find your milk much richer; which induces some not to cut it at all, but only to graze it for their Dairy.  
Being once sowed, it will last five years, and then being ploughed, it will yield three or four years together rich crops of wheat, and after that a crop of Oats.  
And as the Oats begin to come up, then sow it with Clover-seed (which is in itself excellent Manure) for your need not bestow any new dressing upon the ground, and by that time you have cut your Oats, you will find a delicare grass grown up underneath, upon which if you please, you may graze with Cattle or Horse all that year after, and the next year take your crop as before at pleasure.  
To prevent mistake, I must give this advertisement, that whereas Sir Richard Weston commends heathy ground, he is not to be understood, of such dry and barren ground without its best Manure by chalk, lime, and the like artifices of husbandry. For otherwise it has failed in the growth & improvement thereby expected. Mr. Blithe commends ground naturally good, betwixt ten and twenty shillings an Acre: giving this general Rule, that no land can be too good for Clover that is not too good for Corn.  
Hemp and Flax are used to have the same culture, and the best husbandry that I have observed of them has been in Staffordshire, where this procedure is generally observed. About the beginning or middle of April the flax seed is sown upon new broken ground, immediately upon its being broken up. The seed they either have from their own Crop, or buy it from a warmer Country: Mr. Blithe reports the true East-Country seed to be fare the best, who for trial of both, sowed on the same land, the Ridge or Middle with our Country seed, and both the furrows, with Dutch or east-country seed, (such as is bought in the seedsmens' shops at Billingsgate in London) the effect was that our seed, though on the ridge it had the advantage of the ground, was encompassed with the Dutch, as with a wall about it, so much the Eastern seed did out grow it, He likewise for warmer parts, as Essex and Kent thinks mid-March a convenient feason for sowing it: If weeds grow therein they carefully weed their crop and pull it in dry weather when it looks yellow, lest growing over ripe it blacken and mildew, and tie it up in handfuls that it may perfectly dry. Then they ripple it, is, that they get out the seeds by drawing it through an ●ngine like an iron double tooth comb, which they call a Ripple: the boles of seed pulled off, they lay on a boarded or plastered floor to dry, it being dried they lay it up and thresh it not out of the boles till March, when they winnow it clean from the husks.  
The watering of it is thus: The Flax being well dried, they bind up about 20 handfuls in a bundle and putting many of these bundles together they stake them down in the water, that they may not be carried away by the Stream. The flax abides in water 4 or 5 days and nights, than they spread it on the grass that it may dry, turning it every 3 days, and when it is full dried they lay it up and house it, and when they see their occasion they use their Brake and Crack, instruments devised for the purpose to bring the Tow from the Flax. The whole Government and husbandry of hemp from the seed to the distaff is so like this of Flax that the same example and rule may very well serve for both.  
Woad, according to Mr. Bliths' directions, is best sowed where you sow your Barley or Oats, upon that very husbandry or tilth, about the middle of March, and may grow up among the Corn because it groweth not fast the first summer, but after the Corn is cut it must be preserved; it requires a rich and warm soil. This plant is of great use to Dyars, and coloureth the bright yellow or lemon colour, It abates the strength and superrichnesse of land, and may prepare for Corn in land of its own Nature too rich, which is, as Mr. Blithe observes, sometimes a fault, though not so frequently as the contrary extreme.  
Beans require a low deep ground and Waterish, not dry, sandy or gravelly soil: This is true of field beans, though I first took notice of the great difference in our London Gardens, where the labourers for their own eating would give one part in three more for a measure of beans from the former than from the latter soil, who assured me that from the same seed and care garden beans have much more meal, pulp, or kernel and thinner skins in the moist than in the dryer and less waterish ground.   

N. 4. The General observations for the manner of sowing.  
Besides the Examples aforesaid, I shall add some rules such as by gardiner's are usually observed.  
This is general that all seeds must be covered with the earth, which is done, either by sowing the ground and turning the seed in under the furrow, or by drawing trenches in the soil, and then drawing the earth over them with a ho, or sowing the beds ready dressed, and hacking in the seed with the same instrument, or by harrowing, raking with a rake or drawing bushes over the sowed ground to cover the seed, or to set the single seeds with a stick, or lastly to sow the ground and afterwards to sift or strew fine mould thereon.  
The two laste ways are for choice seeds when the workman desires to lose none for want of burying the sowing under furrow is for such seeds as must endure the winter, the depth of ground being part of their security against the winter colds: nor are all seeds of strength to shoot their germane through so so much earth. The sowing intrenches is used for Pease, there being thereby spaces left between the rows, of half a yard more or less, to gather them as they ripen, and room whence to draw mould to the roots, which frequently done, is very advantageous to them. It is likewise handsome for Spinach, Endive, Thyme, Savory or other garden herbs to grow in rows after this manner of sowing.  
Moisture is absolutely necessary for the growth of all plants, two or three days after a great rain is accounted a good season; in dry weather two days after rain say the London gardiner's, agreably to that of Ferrarius, Nec tamen simulac magnis imbribus terra permaduit seres, sed tantisper expectabis, dum pluvius ille mador modice exsiccetur, ne madenti limosoque in solo statutae radices exputrescant de Fl. cult. l. 3. c. 1. Seeds that are apt to run to a Mucilage are unfit to endure moisture upon that account, as else where I noted.  
I prescribe nothing concerning the observation of the faces of the moon, because I much doubt of any effect therefrom. Neither do gardiner's that work, nor Authors that writ, prescribe alike rules; but contradict each other in their direction, for the particular observation of this Planet, as to any intended production. Nor is it agreeable to my reason, that the moons being in the full at the first explication of the two dissimilar leaves, or germination of the plant, should cause a double flower, this germination according to this present History, differing little from other augmentations of the same plant, in opposite quarters immediately ensuing: so that if a full moon be proper, I see no reason why it may not be effectual, by virtue of the same phasis the third, as the first or the twelveth, as the sixth day of the seedlings augmentation.  
The meliorating of ground belongs to the head of Improvement; here I shall only observe that where ground is very light, as in some London and Kentish gardens, it is found profitable after sowing to tread in the seed.  
Some steep all garden seed before they sow them to make the germination the more speedy, but seeing there be no better ways of infusion than in Farth and Water, why the same bosom of a well watered ground should not be most fit for this operation I see not.  
In seeds that are long in coming up, the seed bed is not to be digged up the first winter: For I know divers seeds that will for a great part of them lie under ground the first, year and come up the second: of this Nature is the Ashkey sometimes, the Peach, Malecotone and some Plums.   

N. 5. Of variety of kinds, different in colour, taste, smell, and other sensible qualities, proceeding from some seeds, and what plonts they are that bring seeds yeild-such va riety.  
In Carnations you have seeds that give admirable Variety from the Orange-tawny Carnation and all his stripped kinds that are double and keep their tawny in them in any measure. The white, Tawny and Carnations darkly spotted, Ferrarius commends for producing variety of colours and stripes. Kernels of divers Apples and Pears bring variety of kinds, different in taste, smell, colour, and hardness, and are as often promoted to better, as the degenerate to worst, as I am very credibly informed, by persons that profess themselves to have seen the experience. The kernels of the Burgundy Pear has brought a noble alteration and produceth a pear fare beyond that excellent kind: Peaches and Malecotones do ordinarity the like, so that by seed is thought to be their best propagation.  
Our gardiner's in choosing the seed of stock-Gylli-flowers to make them bring double stocks, take their seed from such tops as bring fine leaves in their flower, of ecially if it be one stripped; but Mr. P. says those that bear double seeds, cannot be distinguished from the other, and I have reason to believe him, for such as choose their seed this way, do not find that it answers their expectation.  
For Tulips that are early, or Praecoces, the purple says Mr. Parkinson, I have found to be the best, next thereto is the purple with white edges, and so likewise the red, with yellow edges; but each of them will bring most of their own Colours. For the Media's, take those colours that are light, rather white then yellow, and purple, then red, yea white, not yellow, purple, not red: but these again to be spotted is the best, and the more the better; but withal or aboveall, in these respect the bottom of the flower (which in the precox Tulipa you cannot, because you shall find no other ground in them but yellow) for if the flower be white or whitish, sported, or edged and streaked, and the bottom blew or purple (which is found in the Holias, and in the Cloth of Silver, this is beyond all other the most excellent, and out of question the choicest of an hundred, to beget the greatest and most pleasant variety, and rarity, and so in degree the meaner in beauty you sow, the lesser shall your i'll sure in varieties be: Bestow not your time in sowing red or yellow Tulipa-seed, or the divers mixtures of them, they will (as I have found by experience) seldom be worth your pains. The Serolina being not beautiful, brings forth no special variety: Ferrarius lib. 3, chap. 7. commends the Serolina for seed, (but I find he makes but two sorts; Praecoces and Serolin's) and among them the white, with the black purple, or blue bottoms or Scarlet with skycoloured bottom inclining to purple; for both them will (says he) bring Tulips marked with variety and handsomeness: But Tulips without a blackish bottom are no good breeders of various coloured flowers.  
The two lesser Spanish bastard daffodils, the leaves of which are of a whitish green colour, one alittle broader than the other, and the flowers pure white, bending down their their heads, that they almost touch the Stalk again, give Seed from which springs much variety, few or none keeping either colour or height with their mother plant.  
The seeds of divers Son breads, by name the Roman Sowbred with round leaves, the Autumnal Ivy leaved Showbread, some flowers-de-lis, and many sorts of Bears-eares do the like in producing admirable variety.  
As for Anemones, take't from Mr. P. and our common daily experience that there is not so great variety of double flowers raised from the seeds of thin leaveed Anemones as from the broad leaved ones. Of the Latifolias, the double Orange-rawny seed being sown, yieldeth pretty varieties, but the purples, or reds, or crimsons, yield small varieties, but such as draw nearest to their original, although some be a little deeper or lighter then others: But the light colours are they that are chief for choice, as white, ash-colour, blush or Carnation, light Orange, Simple, or particoloured, single (or double if they bear seed) which must be carefully gathered, and that not before it be fully ripe, which you shall know by the head, for when the seed with the woolliness beginneth a little to rise of itself at the lower end, then must it be quickly gathered, lest the wind carry it all away, after it is thus carefully gathered it must be laid to dry for a week or more, which then being gently rubbed with a little dry sand, or earth will cause the seed to be better separated, although not throughly, from the wooliness or down that compasseth it.  
In the seed of the Mervayle-of-the-world, take notice, that if you would have variable flowers, you must choose out such flowers as be variable while they blow, that you may have their seed! for in this plant if the flower be of a single colour, the seed will likely bring the same.   

N. 6. Some other relations of transmutation, and the possibility of a change of ones species into another examined.  
I have often heard persons affirm, that they have sowed Barley, or some other grain, and in the ground the seed has been so altered as to send forth Oats instead of corn, according to its own species. I am as yet fare from giving any assent to this their History. The Reasons why I disbeleive them are, first, because the Relators affirm whole fields to be thus varied, and that to one species (viz) of Oats, which is different from Barley in the straw, ear and grain itself. Whereas in the variation of seed, in those vegetables, in which the change is undoubted, the colour only or some other easily alterable accidents, such as the sensible qualities are generally found are transmuted, and this transmutation ends not at all in another divers kind; but in several small diversities of the same kind; The stories of Wheat turned to Mustardseed were as likely to be true, and is a fit parallel to create a right belief of the true cause of the mentioned effect. Secondly, I knew a Gentleman who ploughed a piece of land in the spring, and then sowed it not, but after it was harrowed and prepared for seed left it to its own Genius and nature to produce what it was inclined to: The Ground was off its own Nature apt to bring forth wild-oats amidst the Corn, now in defect of Corn there grew as many wild-oats unmixed from any other weeds, as the land could carry. This was tried in a great piece of land, and much profit was made of the Oats, the Gentleman having cut them green for Fodder Anno 1657.  
My judgement therefore is, That the fallacy which befell my above named Relators was, that they mistook the cause of the production of the Oats mentioned; for to me it is much more easy to conceive, that by some evil accident, as it often happens (the seed corn being corrupted and perished in the ground) the ground it's self from its own Seminary, sent out the supposititious Crop of Oats or Mustard, than that there should be a variety of so strange a Nature, and declension from its property, in the issue of any species.  
It is indeed grown to be a great question, whether the transmutation of a species be possible either in the vegetable, Animal, or Mineral kingdom. For the possibility of it in the vegetable: I have heard Mr. Bobart and his Son often report it, and proffer to make oath that the Crocus and Sladiolus, as likewise the Leucoium, and Hyacinths by a long standing without replanting have in his garden changed from one kind to the other: and for satisfaction about the curiosity in the presence of Mr. boil I took up some bulbs of the very numerical roots whereof the relation was made, though the alteration was perfected before, where we saw the divers bulbs growing as it were on the same stool, close together, but no bulb half of the one kind, and the other half of the other: But the change-time being past it was reason we should believe the report of good artists in matters of their own faculty.  
Mr. Wrench a skilful, and industrious gardener for fruit and kitching-plants told me that the last year there was a change betwixt the kinds of the Coleflower, and the cabbage. Others I know who as from their experience most confidently affirm that they have primroses of the milk white colour, the root whereof before in another ground bare Oxelips: and it is usually believed that divers single flowers may be changed into double by frequent transplantations, made into better grounds. I knew those that have had the wood Anemonies, and Colchiums' double, who affirm that they took them into their garden wild, and fingle, and that that change was made by the soil, and culrure of the place.  
For the animal Kingdom the instances of transmutation are in silkwormes, cadiz, and all caterpillars, which after a long sleep from the reptile turn into the volatile kind.  
The mineral Kingdom is supposed to be famous and fruitful in these changes, the hope of the Philosopher's stone, or perfecting medicine requiring this belief: Yet I am persuaded that in many of their changes they rather separate, and bring to appearance a latent mineral, than produce it by the transmutation of another into that nature. Sennertus recants those writings of his, that affirmed iron to have been turned into copper by natural, and artificial waters of Vitriol. The effect only in his second, and more mature judgement being the separation of a copper before latent in the Vitriol, and the precipitation of it by the parts of the iron: and I have seen some experiments made by the honourable Person, for whom I am now writing, that have added strength to my former persuasion, particularly the supposed transmutation of quicksilver into lead, published as real by the learned Vintzerus and others, and to be made by dissolving the quicksilver in aqua fortis, & precipitating it by the tincture of Minium, proved but sophistical, the Led produced that way being indeed not made of the Mercury, but only reduced out of the tincture of Minium, wherein it lurcked, as that Gentleman doth more circumstantially set down in his own papers, and others of the like nature, which it were not proper here further to insist on.  
It is a question, whether there be any real transmutation, from the vegetable to the mineral kingdom, in petrifaction of any sort of wood: those petrifactions, which I have seen in England, are made thus, some particles of stone, that impregnate the body of water, make a crust about the stick that is to be petrified, and enter into the pores thereof, as fast as they are laid open by the water, washing through the stick, wherein there intercedes, no change of the same parts, but by addition of some, and substraction of others, if I imagine aright, the new effect is wrought. The proof whereof may be, that the fibres of wood appear visible and to the touch and taste amidst the body of the stone.  
In Ireland there is a Lake wherein (as that Noble Person I but now mentioned, hath related to me) there is so great a petrifying faculty that the best wherstones used in that nation, are made of wood, cast therein to be petrified. In which stones though all the lineaments of the woody fibres remain, yet they are endued with the hardness, and other qualities of an exact stone. And Coral, the entire stoniness thereof no man can doubt, may well be imagined to be originally a vegetable bearing root, stalk, and leaf; and that afterward it is turned into its hardness by the peculiar property of the water: whether these operations of nature are likewise perfected by addition and substraction of parts only, or whether it be required that some parts for the production of this effect be transmuted I shall not determine.  
And for the deciding the whole question, if the form be specifical, and so made by the aggregation of a certain number of accidents, those accidents & that number must be assigned that are thought enough to complete a new form, before we may begin to judge in this matter for that very many accidents maybe changed it appears by the above named instances in vegetables & in other bodies many more: Vinegerand Wine, are the same parts transposed and yet there seems to be more difference between them than between Endive and Cichory, Maidenhair and Scolopendrium, Rhubarb and Dockes, which are in Vegetables esteemed for divers species formally or specifically distinguished.   

N. 7. Of Provision for seed.  
Many Roots are to be transplanted at the latter end of the year, and will bring forth perfect seeds: as, Carrots, Parsneps, Turnips. Cabbages are to be laid in Cellars all winter, the root and Cabbage being replanted in the spring, or the seed may be got, though not in so plentiful a manner, from the stalks of Cabbages, whence in the season the Cabbage was taken either replanted, or standing in their old places: Coleflowers give their seed from the like care that is bestowed on the Cabbage.  
I have seen gardiner's that provide Cabbage-seed in great quantity for the shops in London upon their course ground, to sow Cabbage seed which without transplantation shall bring forth Coleworts for boiling herbs, and then a crop of seed: many plants that bear fruit bring their seed every year in their fruits, so Apples, Pears, Plumes, Peaches, Aprecots, Wheat, Barley, Rye, Pease, Beanes, and many that bear no fruit do the like, so Lettuce, Radish all grasses, so that unless some peculiar plants which require to be excepted: Yucca Indica, bears neither flower nor seed in less than four years' time: 'tis general that each seed will ripen every year, and the best general token of maturity is its looseness from the pedal by which it's joined to the stock, so as kernels in ripe Apples grow lose from the core.  
Those persons that make Verjuice or Cider can best furnish him that intends a Nursery, for notwithstanding both the violence of Mill or Press, the kernels escape entire enough for Vegetation; but care must be had that they be immediately sown after the pressing lest being laid on a heap they heat, in the manner of wet Hay, and burn the germane of the seed, which in the moisture of the bruised fruit by that heat will prematurely sprout forth to its own perishing.  
In providing Lettuce seed, mark the plants that you see strongest for seed, and after they have begun to shoot stalks, strip away the lowest leaves, for two or three h●nds breadth above the ground, that by them the stalk be not rotten.  
Let Carnation and Gilly flower-Cods of seed stand upon the Root so long as you may, for danger of frost, then cut the stems off with the Cod on them and dry them so, as not to lose the seeds; The dryness of the Cod and blackness of the seed is an Argument of ripeness: Ferrarius Lib. 3. Cap. 15. Reports, that the bottom of every Cod brings the best seed: and the largest flowers.  
The seed of Crocus' are only, or at least, best taken from the ordinary stripped vernal Crocus, the great purple Crocus, the great blue Crocus of Naples, the stripped purple, the less purple, flame coloured, the purple with small leaves, the yellow stripped, the cloth of Gold. Clovergrasse and seeds of that nature, are provided by letting the grass run timely to seed, particularly by moving it about May and thence abstaining till theseed is through ripe.  
Such seeds as are weighty and sink in water are best; the contrary are usually languid and unfit for propagation.  
Outlandish seeds are used for such plants, whose seeds cannot be got here for want of Maturity, or any other reason.  
The Spanish-Muske-Melon-seed is accounted best, though we use our own with good success: few Gardiner's here will use their own Onion-seed, for they find it runs to Scallions: Myrtle with us comes not to seed, nor Mulberry. For the sensitive plant, the Amaracoc or Passion flower etc. we send for seed to the Barbadoes.  
What advantage our Nation might have by propagation of exotique plants by seed brought new from several Countries beyond the Seas, 'tis hard to guess that the●e would be advantage 'tis certain. I remember that Bellonius a man very diligent, and much employed about knowing the nature of plants, growing in other Countries than his own, which was France, wrote a whole book to show the possibility and advantage of this improvement, to persuade Merchants to furnish gentlemen with seed, and them to use it. 'tis known that Peaches, Aprecots, Nectarins were lately not only strangers to England, but to France likewise. Mulberry is likewise on Exotique plant, and by King James his Command sent for over and propagated by seed.  
●xotique Seeds are good not only to propagate plants yet not with us, but likewise to make a more plentiful production than can with ease be made from any other way of propagation of such we already have.  
Care must be had in sowing seed, or at least in setting them, where you intent that they shall thrive, that the ground bear the best proportion may be to the places and the particular Minera of the places where such plants in other parts use to grow, not to put mountainous plants in low and moist grounds. Why the Taurick Cedars, were they planted in Walls, should not grow I know no reason.  
It were worth the while to consider in all seeds, whether there be no distinguishable difference in the seed, that may be of use, as to sooner, or greater growth. In the same bed divers seeds being sowed of one kind, particularly Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherrys, or Peaches, some Apple seedlings will in the same mould, and distances, much outshoot the rest of the same kind, and so in the Pears, and other kernels: it might here be enquired, whether the great or less, send bigger plants, and of speedier growth? as it is by some observed in buds, that the fairer the bud is upon the shield and stronger, the better thrives the inoculation, and not only grows more certainly but more lustily.  
2. Whether the Canker in pippins, arise not from an incongruous grafting, and it were not better to bring them up from kernels, or graft them on a more mild stock than that of a Crab.  
Whether there might not be gotten divers years sooner trees of stature from kernels of great bodied and quick growing Apple trees, and such whose kernels vary not much their kinds, than from Crabs, which is a wood of a slow growth and harsh Nature.   

N. 8. The manner of growing by seed.  
The seed is considered either as already made, or as it is under the hands of Nature, imperfect, yet in the way to be made.  
In it made, there are considerable, first, the Coats and cotton that cover it about, and preserve it from injuries; secondly, the essential and proper parts of the seed itself.  
Many seeds have two Coats above the Cotton, and one thin one under, next investing the seed, such are Sicamores.  
All seeds that I know have within their Covers actually a Neb, which answers to a root, which is joined to leaves more or less in number: betwixt the stalks of, or amidst these leaves there is a bud, eye or German, just opposite to the Neb, or initial Root, but by reason of its smallness it is scarce discernible in many seeds till it gins to spring.  

1. Most plants have only two leaves actually joined to the Neb, which are commonly very unlike the proper leaves of the plant: of this sort are the flowers of the Sun, Ediffarum Clypeatum, Cucumbers, Melons, Amaranthus, Thistles, Thlaspyes, Mallows of divers kinds, archangels Spurges, Nettles, Clary, Orach, Dill, Parsely hath two leaves dissimilar, but not much so, Melilot two dissimilar, and one, if I mistake not, similar.  
2. Many plants have more Leaves in the arising from the Neb, as Cresses have six.  
3. Some plants have but one dissimilar leaf as Anemones, Tulips, Fritellaryes and all bulbous spring flowers that I have observed. Wheat, Barley, Rye, all grain and grasses that I know have a germane wrap ●ped up att one end of the grain in a hose or sheathe which germane consists of leaves wrapped about the bud by a plica, or folding made the long way of the leaf, not overthwart as in Sicamores, Maples and other complicated leaves of seeds, Nor doth the whole corn divide itself into leaves, and coats or husk as in those examples, but the greater part thereof contains a meal which by the heat and moisture of the soil is turned into a pappy substance not unlike the Chyle found in the lacteals of animal bodies, and may, be as I suppose, reposed nourishment for the young blade at such time as the earth would prove but a dry Nurse. I have taken notice that Carriations come up sometimes with three, sometimes with four leaves, though the most have but two: and it is Mr. Bobarts observation, that such as come up with more leaves than two, prove double flowers, which if it generally holds true, it were a compendious way to weed out all the rest at the first coming up, to avoid the labour of culture of such plants as in the end will not prove advantageous for profit or pleasure.   
Beans, Pease, Kidney-beanes, Lupined, have this peculiarity, that the grain being clert, each half is as one of these dissimular leaves, which is usually contained in every seed, and between these thick leaves are contained other similar leaves, or such as differ but in growth o● bigness from the true leaves of the Plant. 'Tis to be observed in all these great seeds, that though the pulse, or thick part of the grain perish, yet if the Neb and small leaves are entire, the seed may prosper; as I have seen Feild-beanes that have been eaten through with worms, prove good thriveing seed. But 'tis reported, that Pismires have learned the wit to spoil the seed from growing in their storehouses, by biting off the very Neb before they repose the grain.  
The growth of the plant from the seed is thus by convenient moisture and heat, the Neb strikes through the Covers, and goes directly down, if not impeded, in earth or water, 〈◊〉 convenient way, ordinarily, two or three inches, in which time the leaves either rolled up, or otherwise enclosed, break their bonds, and expl … te themselves 〈◊〉 being lifted commonly a little higher by the growth of the stalk, or lengthened Neb and you may observe, that the growth above ground, at the first motion upward, is nothing proportionable to the motion downward. After the root is well made and fastened betwixt the leaves that were, actually contained in the seed, there arises into more plain sight and appearance, that little ●ermen before, in many plants scarce-seen, like to that bud, which is left on plants in winter, which springing, brings forth the true leaves and Branch, of the plant sown.  
If I am enquired of, whether each seed has a complete essence and distinct form of its own. Nay further, whether it be a true and perfect plant? I must say that I have found it so to be, even more than an egg, a living thing, and immediately nourishable It has root to grow, body to bear the port of the plant, Bark to direct the Sap into all its parts, and germane or bud to secure the means of future growth, and to boot leaves, which is all and somewhat more than in the winter the sturdiest Oak can boast of.  
It has been accounted an Interest in Philosophy heretofore, and that in our Schools, that seed should not be esteemed an actual and formal plant, because of divers absurdities, that if seed were animal, would happen in their School doctrine; as that there would be pluralities of forms in the same trees; The Soul might be divisible into parts; The same thing might be agent and patiented; Nay some have said, that it may be of dangerous consequence in Divinity, if it were granted, that seeds had the actual forms and essence of that thing whose Seeds they were.  
I am glad 'tis no Heresy now, to appeal to sense from a Doctor's opinion, and that I may freely in this matter require, to be tried by my garden, though it be against the sentence and Judgement of the Doctors Conimbra, Suarez, Ruvio, Pererius, Bonamicue, Fonseca; and that we begin to lay aside the fear, that from a certain truth, ill consequences may arise: That Canon will certainly hold longest which is best built in the bottom.  
It is conceived by some that the immediate cause of the Growth of the seed, is the Spirit working upon the Salt and Sulphur, Earth and other constituent parts or Elements of the Seed: For the Spirit is supposed to be made Volatile by the heat of the earth and water, which in Spring and Autumn, (the chief times of germination) is of a proper temperature for formentation; and then the spirit being so Volatized, and rising up and expanding itself every way augments the whole plant, and distends the sides of the seed, whereby the growth of the seed plant is effected.  
But how it comes to pass, that the conveyance of these expanded particles is ordered to proceed, according to the lineaments of each Vegetable, no person to my knowledge has yet made any conceit; and it being beyond any ocular discovery of the most acute Searchers, to find out the Conduits or Trunks serving to so intricate a carriage, and how it comes to pass, that a seed first, has its Neb thrust down without dilatation of the sides, and then, how the upper part of the Neb or germane orderly frames the Vegetable above ground in so trim a body, rather than a confused mass, I take it not for any part of my task to inquire.  
I shall likewise leave it to the imaginations of Philosophers to determine, whether upon the distension made, it be by an elective faculty in the Seedling, filled up with similar parts drawn from the Earth, and so by Nature originally fitted specifically for that plant: or whether there being a continual motion of particles from the earth, pressing upon the plant, those only get entrance whose shapes and figures are such, as correspond to the pores in the young Vegetable; which meeting in the body of the plant with its constituent parts in nature not unlike themselves, they easily are joined thereto, and so cause an augmentation in the whole: or whether dissimilar parts, either to fill up the Vacuum made by distension, or for other reasons, got up into the plant, do obtain there a change of nature, and from the form, Soul, Archaeus, or other principle, are altered from their first being, into a likeness of nature with the Seedling, and become homogeneous to it; These are Questions, in the determination of which, till I am better informed, I desire to take no side.   

N. 9 Of the cause of Greenness in the leaves of Vegetables.  
It has been made a question by some what it is that causes greenness in all Herbs, especially such whose seed, and the stalk, and Leaf, contained therein are white, and whether the cold beating of air and water upon Vegetables may not have some influence in the production of this effect.  
I truly have been tempted to think the affirmative, which is that the coldness and briskness of the free air, in plants that grow in the land, and the like quality of the water, in water plants produces the verdure or greenness, that is generally the beauteous Vestment of all Vegetables, or at the least has some considerable influence as to this production: for by experience I have proved that plants being in a close room, brought up from seeds in pot, or otherwise, the leaves and stalks prove to be white, or pale, & not green, which is according to the Lord Bacon's experiment, who Cent. 5. Exp. 47. setting a Standard Damask-Rose-Tree etc. in an earthen pan of water, where bearing leaves in the winter, in a chamber where no fire was, the leaves were found (as his Lordship relates) more pale and light coloured, then leaves use to be abroad; which paleness, I suppose to be greater or less, proportionably to the freshness and freeness of the air that the plant enjoys. Grass will likewise change its colour, if by any weighty body, or other lying upon it in the field, it be kept from the air: The truth is, all plants have peculiar delight in the air, which I have proved by this Experiment; I have taken young seedlings in a pot, and put them in a window where there was a quarry out, the seedling would immediately leave its upright growth; and direct its body strait to the hole, and so become almost flat and level with the earth in the pot: Then turning the pot so, that the inclination of the stalk might be from the hole, the plant has then crooked itself in form of a horn, or the letter C. to the air again. Upon the Second turn of the pot, the upper horn being placed from the air, the plant would, with its upper part, return to the open place, and leave the stalk now in the form of an S. Nay, sometimes I have bid persons tell me, which way they would have such a plant grow; they have marked the place in the brim of the Pot, that mark I have turned to the hole in the window, by which means the plant without any force, and that in not many hour's space, hath inclined its stalks to the mark made.  
That the air has great influence in producing the verdure of plants, may likewise not improbably be argued from the Experiments of Planching, or whiting the leaves of Artichockes, Endive, Myrrh is, Cichory, alexander's, and other plants, which is done by warm keeping of them, without the approach or sentiment of the Cool and fresh air; whereby all plants that otherwise would bear a green colour, become exactly white.  
Hence it may likewise be, that though roots of most Vegetables that are under ground, and covered from the air, are white generally, whereas the stem, and upper parts of them are ordinarily green, and many roots that are by nature of a peculiar colour, as Radishes, yet the point of the root that is deepest in the ground, retains a whiteness, as well as otherroots, being in that part of the root removed from the air, the red part commonly standing above or just in the furface of the earth.  
Hence also it may be, that those leaves of Cabbages & Lettuce that are expanded in the free air are green, those that being covered with their fellows: and secluded from the blasts of wind and weather, and kept in a warm Covert, become as white as any thing that is artificially blanched.  
True it is that, there be plants that grow in the bottom of waters, and so cannot be supposed to have this help from the air, otherwise than as the air chills the water, and the water having received this quality from the air, makes the like impression upon its domestic plants.    

Chap. 2. Of Propagation by offsets.  

N. 1. A Catalogue of Plants which may be propagated by offsets and suckers arising with Roots from the stool and Root of the Mother Plant.  

Aconite or Wolfesbane.  
Adders-tongue.  
Alexander's.  
Anemones.  
Angelica.  
Aristolochias.  
Artichockes.  
Asphodels.  
Asarum.  
Asparagus.  
Avens.  
Barberies.  
Barrenworth.  
balm.  
Bears-eares.  
water and wood Betony.  
Bistort.  
Spanish Broome.  
Butcher's Broom.  
Brooklime.  
Briony.  
Burts, and such like Apples.  
bugloss.  
Burdocke.  
Burnet.  
Calamus aromaticus, which requires moisture.  
Camomile.  
Caltha or March Marigold.  
Cherries where the stock is not grafted.  
Chives.  
Cinquefoyle.  
Clowns all-heal.  
Costmary.  
Cowslips.  
Comfrey.  
Cowslips of Jerusalem.  
Coltsfoote.  
Columbines.  
The Crown imperial.  
Crowfoot.  
Cuckowpints.  
Dame's violet.  
Daysyes'.  
Dens Leonis bulbosus.  
Dittander.  
Dockstooth.  
Dockes.  
Dorias his wound wort.  
Dragons.  
Dulcamara, or woody nightshade.  
Egrimony.  
Elmes.  
Elic ampane.  
Everlasting Vetch.  
Ewe.  
Fernes.  
Feverfew.  
Figtrees.  
Filbeards.  
Filipendula.  
Flowers-de-Luct.  
Flevellen or Speedwell.  
Galingall.  
Garliques  
Gentianella.  
Germander.  
Goosberryes'.  
Goldenrod.  
Ground Jvy.  
Haselnuts.  
Heart's tongue.  
Herbaparis.  
Helleborine.  
Hellebores.  
Hercules all heal.  
Hyacinths.  
Horsradish.  
Houseleek.  
Horsemints.  
Hops.  
Horsetaile.  
Jasmine.  
Jerusalem Artichoke.  
Kontish coddlings.  
Knapweed.  
Lovage.  
Lady's bed straw.  
Lilies.  
Lilium convallium.  
Lunaria.  
Lungwoort.  
Mandrakes, for often there may be taken from them particles of their roots, which will grow well, though the usual way of their propagation is by seed.  
Marshmallowes.  
Masterwort.  
Madder.  
Mints.  
Moly.  
Monkshood.  
Mulberryes'.  
Mugwort.  
Nurse-gardens.  
All sorts of Orchis, or Docks-stone.  
Petasitis.  
Periwinkle.  
Peony.  
Pease.  
Pilewort.  
Poplars.  
Potatoes.  
Prunella.  
Primroses.  
Pulsatillas'.  
Raspes.  
Radix cava.  
Reeds.  
Roses of most kinds.  
Ruscus or Butcher's broom.  
Rubarbs.  
Satyrions.  
Saponoria.  
Sanicle.  
Scabious.  
Sedum.  
Serpillum.  
Setfoyle.  
Skirrets though seeds will produce better.  
Smallage.  
Sorrells.  
Solidago Saracenica.  
Solomon's Seal.  
Some Spurges.  
Stitchwort.  
Strawberryes'.  
Sword flags.  
Tarragon.  
Tansey.  
Tnistles.  
All sorts of Tulips.  
Valerians.  
Some Vetches.  
vervain.  
Times.  
Violets except the yellow.  
Water mints.  
Water Lillyes and most of the other water plants.  
Winter Cherries.  
Willow weeds.  
Wolveses bane.  
Wormwood.  
Yarrow.    

N. 2. The way of making Offsets by Art.  
Nature usually provides this help of propagation, without the wit or industry of men, called to her assistance, but that not generally in all plants, nor always in any one: and therefore I esteem it well deserving any man's learning who delight in Gardeus, to know any means to enlarge this way of propagation beyond the bounds it is carried to by nature's course, There is a pretty way (which in truth I first learned from Mr. Bobart our Physic Gardiner) for the making Offsets where nature never intended them; which is done by bareing the root of plants of woody substance, and then making a cut of the same fashion with that which is made in laying: Into this cloven a stone must be put, or something that will make the root gape, then cover the root over three inches with mould, and the lip that is lifted up will sprout into branches, the root of the old tree nourishing it. When the branches are grown, cut off this plant with its Root to live of its self.  
If you can, leave an eye on the lip of your root, which you after the incition lift up; for the branches will then more speedily and certainly issue out of the root so cut.  
In Bulbous Roots, Ferrarius makes offsets thus: If (says he) a Bulbous roor is barren of Offsets: either put it in better earth, or cut it upon the bottom in the crown of the root whence the fibres spring, and that but lightly with your nail, and sprinkle some drydust as a medicine to the wound; and the effect he affirms to be this, that so many wounds as you shall make, into so many offsets shall the genital virtue dispose itself.   

N. 3. Rules for direction in taking off Suckers, or Offsets.  
Care must be had, that the Dam be not destroyed in her delivery from her new brood, which may easily be done, if too great a wound be made upon the stool, or mother-plant, by tearing off the Suckers. 'tis Ferrarius his peculiar precept about Anemonyes: That they be sure as to take off such Offsets that will scarce hang on, so not to tear off such as hold fast to the mother-plant, for that would be to the peril both of the offset and motherplant. Yet I have seen the very substance of Sowbreads to have been divided with a knife through the heart, and yet grow well on either part, when they have not afterward been over glutted with wet. Flags. Bear's ears, Primroses and Cowslips, and generally all roots, that are not Bulbous or tuberous must have, and do require a violent separation, but the less the wound is, the better shall your plant thrive, and be less subject to corrupt by the moisture in the earth.  
In the replantation there is required the general care of young sets, all plants of fibrous roots are assured in their growth, by convenient watering, but for bulbous and tuberous the Gatdiners' hand is, and aught to be more sparing, because that moisture is a peculiar enemy to these plants, and often rots them, if it get into any cranny of their roots.   

N. 4. Examples of planting by Offsets.  
Licorice requires the richest & most forced ground, very deep, that there may be room for the downright root, light, without stones or gravel, and dry from moisture: The sets are made either from the runners that creep along the upper part of the ground from the root, or else are taken from the Crown of the master-roote, and are set at a foot distance or less in February, or March, according to custom, though I suppose any time in the winter might as well serve the turn, the richer the ground is, the further they may be set apart.  
Hops require to be planted in a very rich well soiled land, and not moorish, unless the bog be first well drained, the stronger the sets are, the more immediately will profit arise from the Garden, if three or four inches about, they are so much the better, let the centre of the hills be ten foot removed each from other, that you may put the more poleson a hill, and both the sun and plough may have free passage between them: those that have less ground make less distances, and toil their garden with the spade, and put but three poles to a hill, whereas such as plant 9 or 10 foot distance, use four at the least, if not five: In planting, which is thought to be best done, when the frosts are past, (some prescribe April for the season) there is nothing required but that they be set about the centre of the place, intended for the Hill upon the plain surface of the ground in good mould, about three, four, or five in number according to the bigness of the Hill intended, and ordered with the usual care of offsets: besides this particular that as the sets grow the hill must be raised to their heads.  
Saffron delights in a reasonable good and dry light ground, not extremely soiled or moist, 'tis planted chief in some parts of Essex, Suffolk, and between that and Cambridge, at Saffron-Walden. They are set in the manner of bulbous roots, being taken when the bulbe is at the fullest, commonly about Midsummer, the bulbs are set by a line, (that the beds may be weeded with a ho) and that either with a setting stick or by trenches made in the manner of those wherein garden pease are usually sowed. This bears in the middle of the flower three chives, which is the Saffron, to be gathered every morning early and dried for use, every second or third year at the furthest the beds must be replanted, and the offsets drawn away.  
The general way of this propagation is to take the offsets that rise from the bulbous and tuberous rooted plants, as Tulips, Anemones, Narcisses, Crocus', &c. & the suckers which from the roots of poplars, Elms, Nuttrees, Pears, Burts, Nursgardens, Kentish coddlings, Gooseberries, Roses, Ruscus, Calamus Aromaticus are very plentifully are drawn, and more, or less from all mentioned in the Catalogue. N. 1. Chap. 2. and to replant them in the seasons of setting, which are related in the proper chapter for that operation, into proper beds, and in convenient distances for their future education and growth.   

N. 3. Variety of colours, in what flowers, from what offsets.  
Our Gardiner's respect most the roots of widows, for that they find by experience that they multiply the variety of Tulips not only from seeds, but from the offsets of these widows: I myself have seen admirable declensions of them from their natural purple and white.  
The royal Crocus striped gives now and then very pretty variety from its offsets, as sometimes I have seen on the same root an ordinary striped Crocus and another of a perfect flame colour, though the variery here be not so great as in Tulips.  
Concerning the manner of growth by Offsets there is little to be spoken particularly, their roots being actually made while they remain upon the mother plant, and their growth being like that of other well rooted vegetables.    

CHAP. 3. Of propagations by stems, cuttings or slips.  

N. 1. A Catalogue of plants this way propagable.  

Abrotonum Vnguentarium.  
Balsamita.  
Barberries.  
Basil.  
Basilmint.  
Bay.  
Baume.  
Box.  
Brooklime.  
Burts. and generally all such plants as break out into protuberances like warts upon the bark.  
Bugle.  
Cornelian Cherry.  
Many Crowfootes.  
Donas his woodwort being cut off near the root.  
Elder.  
Evergreen-Privet.  
Germanders.  
Gillyflowers.  
Hyssop.  
Jasmine.  
Kentish coddlings.  
Knotgrass.  
Lavender.  
Laurel.  
Marjerome.  
Marshmallows. being taken up near the root.  
Mastic.  
mulberies.  
Nursgardens.  
Pennyroyal.  
Periwinkle.  
Pinks.  
Polium monstanum.  
Prunella or Self heal.  
Quinces.  
Some Roses, as the ever-green Rose.  
Rosemary.  
Rue.  
Sage, both English and French.  
Savory.  
Savin. in moist ground, and shadowy  
Scordium.  
Southernwood.  
Spearmints.  
Strawberries, and generally all plants that have joints upon creeping strings.  
Thime.  
Tripolium.  
Veronica erecta.  
Vines.  
Violets.  
Wall flowers.  
Watercresse in water.  
Withy.  
Willow.  
Woodbine.    

N. 1. Explication of the Manner of propagation by stems cut off from the Mother-plant, or slipped by example and Rules for particular direction.  
For example, I shall choose to instance in Gillyflowers or Carnations, for which flowers observe this order, Seek out from the stems such shoots only as are reasonable strong, but yet young and not either too small or slender, or having any second shoots from the joints of them, or run up into a spindle, cut these slips off from the stem or root with a knife either close to the main branch, if it be short, or leaving a joint or two behind, if it be long enough, at which it may shoot anew: when you have cut off your slips you may either set them by and by, or else (as the best Gardiner's use to do) cast them into a tub of water for a day or two, then in a bed of rich and fine mould, first cutting off your slip close at the joint, and having cut away the lowest leaves close to the stalk, and the uppermost even at the top, with a little stick, make a little hole in the earth, and put your slip therein so deep that the upper lease may be wholly above the ground (some use to cleave the stalk in the middle, and put a little earth or clay or chickweed, which we more use, within the cleft, this is Mr. Hills way in Sir Hugh Plate, but many good and skilful gardiner's do not use it; then close the ground unto the stem of the plant.  
As for the time, If you slip and set them in September, as many use to do, or yet in August, as some may think will do well, yet (unless they be the most ordinary sorts which are likely to grow at any time and in any place) the most of them, if not all, will either assuredly perish or never prosper well: the season indeed is from the beginning of May to the middle of June at furthest.  
Ferrarius Lib. 2. c. 15. says, that from the month of February to the middle of March (viz) in the time of their germination, is the best time to slip this flower. He neither will have them slipped, nor twisted in the Root, nor Barley put under them to raise adulterous fibres, but only advises that they be cut off in a joint. The truth is, both the Spring and Autumn are good Seasons for making out Roots, the latter requires that the slip be so early set as that they may have time enough to take Root, before the coldness of winter: The former, that the plant set in the spring, may have taken Root before the Sun rises to emit violent and parching heats, which are general Rules for Vernal and Autumnal settings.  
Woody plants that bear leaves must be taken off, & planted some time between the fall of the leaf and the spring, some prefer the planting them in the beginning, some at the going out of the winter about the beginning of February, Immediately when the great frosts break, at the first towardness to spring is a good season according to general belief.  

Experiments made of the succcsse of the cuttings off dive●s plants set in water.  
Because in some disquisitions of natural Philosophy, there may some matter of argument arise from experiments of the conversion of water into nutriment and substance of various and very different plants, whereof some are hot, others cold, some esteemed of a fresh, others of a salt nature, some in regard of man's body of healing, others of excoriating and blistering qualities, some specifiques for the head, and the diseases thereof, others for the heart, and others for the womb: I shall set down the truth of some few trials concerning the growth or corruption of such cuttings, of divers Vegetables as without roots I kept in my chamber, in Vials of water. Not willing thence to make any motion towards the restauration of the ancient doctrine concerning the production of all things out of water, or to rake up the scattered judgements of the once renowned Thales, which he made from the observation of the generation of fishes, and petrifaction by this element; as likewise from the influence (for he was ware thereof) and causality it has in the production and nourishment of vegetable, and (if not immediately) by consequence of animal bodies. Nor desiring to make from these experiments (though I believe the instance may be as well proper as specious) any argument for the more fashionable opinion of Epicurus, by showing the various productions that may be made by the divers shufflings and positions of that which has the repute of the most pure and defecated element, but clearly intending to keep to my task, which is History, and rather to serve, than to be the Philosopher: I in short give the Reader this account: That May 1658, in Glasses of water the plants following grew from cuting, and made themselves roots in the water, by name, they were Balsamira minor, Mints, Sedum multifudum, Pennyroyal, Bugle, Prunella, water cress, Purple-grasse, Periwinkle, Dorias his wound-wort, Crowfoot, Brooklime, Marsh-mallows, Laurel, Scordium, Tripolium, Knotgrass, Nummularia, minima, Basilmint, Curl-mint, Hors-mint, Panax-coloni, Feverfew, and some others which I kept no account of, I have had at other times.  
Plants that upon trial made by cuttings May 1658, did not grow being placed in Vials of water were Mugwort, Rosemary, Stock-gilly-flowers, Alaternus, Lavander-cotten, Sage, Armeria's, Camomile, Rosemary, Polium montanum.  
Stock-gilly-flowers, Bawne, Tansy, Groundsel, Lavander-cotton, Sage, Majorane, being likewise set in glasses of water dissolved into a mucilage, and so corrupted before they attained to any roots.  
Plants that were corrupted by the water in some part of the stems and so died after leaves sent forth and roots shot, were, Basil, Mint, Marsnmallows after it had grown a span, Panax-coloni, Balsamita minor, after six weeks growing, which made me doubt whether there were not the same reason of the dying of these plants that there is of grasts of Pears upon Apples, or Apples upon thorns, which grow for a while, it may be some years but surely die before they arrive to any Maturitye: and secondly whether this reason was not the unlikeness and diversity of parts between the stock to be nourished, and the nourishment opposed thereunto, for though some died after leaf and growth made, as purplewort pareticularly by running into a Mucilage; yet generally there appeared no such evident cause of their failing.  
Plants that increased in weight, being planted in the water, were these, and the quantity thus much.  
Sedum multifidum in a month increased in weight, half a Scruple: Scordium as much in a fortnight. Donas his woundwort, grew in 6 weeks, gr. 13. Bugula in some what less time gr. 15. Watercresse gr. 25 in a month. Ranunculus' half a Scruple in 6 weeks, and Periwinkle as much. Prunella, Brooklime, Scordium, and most of the sorts of mints got weight proportionably.    

N. 2. The manner of growing by cuttings.  
Such who desire to observe the working of Bees, get Casements to their Hives, that their eyes may not suffer impediment from the darkness of the place, for prevention of the same hindrance the use of beds of a Diaphanous soil, in as Diaphanous bounds, or plainly of water in a glass, I have found a proper remedy: and shall therefore from my observation of the growth of these particulars desire the reader will imagine the rest, or judge them alike, as truly for what I remember I have always found them.  
For the manner of plants growing by water, I observed that those plants that had many joints easily grew and put forth roots only just at the joint. Knotgrass, Crowfoot, Panax-Coloni, all sorts of Mints, Pennyroyal, Scordium, Bugle, Prooklime, Periwinkle, which I conceive to be the reason why in setting them the practice is to cut of the plant just in a joint, for so the roots immediately spring thence and no part of the stem corrupts, which it would, if it were cut of at greater distance.  
In those herbs where there were no exact joints, the roots sprung forth under some buds, as in Tripolium, Donas his woundwort, Marshmallows.  
Every root that was made came forth first very white and single, but afterward in very handsome order and proportions, from thence arose other fibres striking every way in the water, where the side of the Wialls made no impediment to the growth of the spurs issueing from the first and original root.   

N. 3. Of propagation by the sowing small and almost insensible parts of Vegetables.  
'tis a generally received truth from common experience, that if the water wherein mushrooms have been steeped or washed, be poured forth upon an old hot bed, or the parts and offals of Mushrooms broken to piece; be strawed thereon, that from these parts as from a seed, there will speedily arise store of Mushrooms, every small particle of that imperfect plant being rather believed seminal in the same manner as the boughs of Quinces etc. than that as in Adianthum, and divers fernes, nature has disguised any particular seed clancularly to be the mean of Propagation in it.  
Kircher the Jesuit affirms that if you take an herb and shred it small, or reduce it into Ashes, these being sowed an herb will spring thence of the same species with the Ashes or shreds sown: I thought that news upon my first reading was too good to be true, and upon trial made in very many sorts, could never make this way of propagation hold effectual to the producing of any plant, and if it were true it were an ill Custom the Gardiner's use to sow their seeds with a great quantity of ashes which are made from the wood or straw and leaves of Vegetables generally and a wonder that they never should come up amidst the seeds most seasonably sowed.    

Chap. 4. Of Propagation by laying.  

N. 1. What plants are this way increased.  
The plants that are usually propagated this way, are Vines, Woodbines, Jasmines, Mulberries, Savin: Evergreen privet in Woods all sorts of Willoves and Sallowes to fill up bare places Carnations, Gillyflowers, roses, Hors-chesnut and all those plants that will grow by Cuttings will this way grow with much more ease, by care and good watering gardiner's do apply this way with profit to such plants as cannot well by any other means be increased for want of seeds and offsets, and by reason of the repugnancy of their nature to grow either by cuttings or insition.   

The example of this manner of Propagation.  
The most usual flower to be laid in Gardens, is the Gillyflower which every Gardener here uses, and is thus performed; Take those slips yond intent to lay, and cut the stalk just under that joint of the slip, which is next the root or middle stem, or under the 2d joint half way through the stalk: then slit it upward to the next joint from that under which you made your first incision, and put the top of a Carnation-leafe, or any other thing to hold open the slit, (though that be not altogether so needful, for the cut being made on the lower side, and the Slip being towards the root bend down gently, as the manner is and the top of the slip raised with mould, the slip will be open of its own accord and remain so if you place it well) at the first some peg down the middle of the slip with sticks, that it may not rise from the positure in which 'tis first laid, you must remember to put good earth, enough to mould up your new Nursery, and to water it upon all occasions, and then in 7 or 8 weeks you may expect Roots.   

Requisites for the manner of laying.  
1. To Laying, 'tis profitable if not necessary, that you (in the season of doing this operation) cut the thing you lay, much in the manner you cut Gillyflowers, in laying them, unless in some plants that take any way as Vines, and 'tis so much the better if in Roses and other Layers of a woody substance, with an Awie you prick the stock at the place laid, as it is done in propagation by Circumposition.  
2. Another Requisite is, that dureing the time of drought they be continually watered, and kept moist, otherwise they will make no exact roots perchance only a kind of knob or button full of fresh sap upon the tongue of the cut in the branch laid down, yet I have found these branches cut off with watering in the summer to grow well enough after their transplantation.  
3. The seasons most fit for this operation, is, in the beginning of the spring or declension of the torrid heat of summer, that they may enjoy the moistness of such seasons most proper for the enticeing forth of roots, and most safe from excessive hear or cold.   

N. 1. Of propagation by Circumposition.  
Circumposition is a kind of laying, the difference is, that in this the mould is born up to the bough which is to be taken off: in laying the bough is to be depressed into the mould. We use this most in Apples afrer this manner, first break the bough a little above the place where 'tis separated from the main stock or arm, so that the hat or other Vessel that holds up the Mould to the incision or disbarked place may rest upon the stock, then slit an hat, an old boot, or take any strong piece of old course cloth, tying or sowing it so strongly that it may be able to hold up the mould to the incision, sometime before you fill this cap with mould, remember with an awl or point of a penknife, to bore two rows of holes upon the upside of the cut about half an inch or more, one from another, then fill it with good mould, or such as is agreeable to the tree you work upon, and in the heat of summer, water it now and then, The time of this operation is not in the summer, as Mr. P. supposes (which mistake was sufficient cause why he should not like the experiment) but in the spring before the sap rises, particularly in Febr. or the beginning of March.  
Such plants are propagable this way that might take by laying, but that the branches are too fare risen from the ground to be laid along therein; and therefore it becomes necessary, since they cannot stoop to the earth, that the earth should be lifted up to them.   


The Exemplification of the Operations by the Figure.  
a Denotes the ordinary cutting of the Bark for Inoculation.  
b b The sides of the Bark, lifted up for the putting in of the Shield.  
c The Shield taken off with the Bud, which lies under the Stalk of the Leaf cut off.  
ln The Shield put into the Stock to be bound up.  
d The Bark cut out in an oblong square, according to another usual way of Inoculation.  
e The Shield cut out for the fitting the dis-barked square.  
m The same Shield put into the Stock.  
f A variation of the  way, by cutting off the upper part of the obliqne square, and binding the lower part down upon the Shield.  
●● The Shield so put in to be bound up.  
c Another variation by slitting the Bark, that the Bud and Leaf may stand forth at c, and the Bark slit be bound down upon the Shield.  
h A cross cut for Inoculation.  
i The same cross cut lifted up in this Figure, somewhat to big  
k The Shield cut off to be put therein.  
p The Shield put in.  
g or q The cut of the Cyon or Stock for whip-grafting.  
r 7 The cut of Cyon and Stock for Shoulder grafting.  
s The cut of the Cyons, and slit of the Stock for Grafting in the cleft.  
x The Stock set for Ablactation or approach.  
u The Cyon of the Branch for the same operation.  
1 2 The Branch that is to be taken off by Circumposition.  
3 The Branch that bears up the mould to the dis-barked place.  
4. The Branch of a Carnation to be laid.  
5. The joint where the slit gins.  
6. The next joint where the slit is propped open: with a piece of a Carnation Leaf put in.   
Add this at the 60th Page.  
 Section of a tree trunk, showing various grafts   

N. 5. Of the manner of growth by Circumposition, and whether thence an argument may be made for the descension of Sap.  
Concerning the manner of growth by Circumposition I shall only make this remark, whereas it is supposed by some, that the roots are made above the disbarked place, by the descension of the sap, which is supposed to be at the fall of the leaf, I have found experience very contradictory to their supposals; for the leaves fall not till after Michaelmas; and nature proceeds to the germination, and increase of roots from the spring all the summer long, so that nothing can be argued rightly from this operation, or from the effect and product of nature thereupon for that opinion, which makes the sap to be every winter reposed in the root, as in a large receptacle, and of its descension thither after every Autumn. If it were there as in a repository, it were a wonder that roots should be drier in Decemb. then in May, or June, and sensibly more devoid of juice. And if it did descend after Autumn; how could it ascend at the same time? That it doth then ascend is plain from this experiment; Take up a tree, or other vegetable, in the fall of the leaf; the leaves will whither, and the bark begin in a little time to wrinkle; then set it again in a proper soil, well watered; the effect will be that the leaves will recover freshness, and the bark wax plump and the body frime, and full as before, which could not be but by a fresh supply of ascending sap, which might fill up the pores made by the weather, and exhalation of the sun. I am contented to believe that the sap is in winter where I see it to be, (viz) on the body of the tree coagulated, or crusted into a new coat, encompassing the whole, which was not extant the year before, and on the top fashioned into new shuits which visibly appear the product of that matter the place of which is asserted to be elsewhere and not I am as well contented not to suppose it abideing where upon the most sedulous inquest it cannot be found.    

Chap. 5 Of Insitions.  

N. 1. Of Grafting in general and particularly of shoulder-grafting, Whippe-Grafting, Grafting in the cloven and Ablactation.  
Grafting is an Art of so placing, the Cyon upon a stock that the sap may pass from the stock to the Cyon without impediment. For the right operation of which it is a chief remark, that the space which is between the bark and the stock is the great Channel for conveyance and keeping of sap, so that every one that grafts, well so order the manner, that these spaces be so laid that the passage may be easy and direct from the space under the bark of the stock, to the space under the bark of the Cyon  
This may be done several ways.  
First by shoulder grafting, the operation of which Mr. Austin does well describe thus: Cut off the top of the stock in some smooth straight place that may answerable to the straightness of the graft when set on; then prepare the graft thus, observe which side is straightest at the bottom, or bigest end, so that it may fit the strait part of the graft when set on, then cut one side only of the graft down aslope about an inch long or little more, and cut through the bark at the top of the cut place: and make it like a shoulder, that it may rest just upon the top of the stock, but cut not this shoulder to deep, (only through the bark or little more, and the less the better) but cut the graft thin at the lower end of the cut, so that it may decline in one continued direct smoothness, without dints, ridges, spaces or wind all along the slope, from on side of the Cyon to the other, otherwise it cannot join in all places to the stock. The graft being thus prepared, Lay the cut part of the graft upon the strait side of the stock and measure just the length of the cut part or slope of the Graft, and with your knife take off so much of the bark of the stock, (but cut not away the wood of the stock) then lay the cut side of the graft upon the cutside of the stock, and let the shoulder of the graft rest directly upon the top of the stock, so that the cut parts may join even and smooth all along the inside of the bark of the graft, being placed upon the inside of the bark of the stock, and so join them fast together with some strong Rushes or flags, and clay them on every side that no Rain get in.  
If the stock be very little the way of Grafting is the same, only excepted, that in this case there must some of the substance of the would be taken away, that the graft in its slope be not too big for the cut in the stock, in which operation so much there must be taken from the stock, that the inside of the bark of the graft may answer the inside of the bark of the stock, which being done, all things else are the former way performed. This is called whip-grafting, and is opposed to the former, when no wood is cut from the stock: for shoulder-grafting 'tis required, that the stock exceed not in bigness, for then the bark being taken from it there will not be a right application of the sap-channells of Cyon and stock required in the definition of grafting, the disbarked place in the stock necessarily being much greater than that in the graft. Yet if the stock be not 3 inches circumference it will do very well. The one of these ways is called shoulder-grafting; because the upper end of the downright cut is intended and made fit to lean as it were upon the shoulder of the stock: The other Whip-grafting, because the operator only makes his streight-down right cut and tarries not to indent it at all.  
Some think this way fit only for great stocks: but I have grafted seedlings this way, so small that the Cyon was put in like a Wedg, and was very even to the stock on each side, neither stocks nor Cyons being near an inch round: but if small plants are this way grafted, they must be tied about after the former manner used in shoulder-grafting; the wound made by cleaving is very quickly made up, and cemented by the sap in grafting a young stock, whereas in old it is quite contrary,  
The way of grafting in the cloven, has been of long use, and is generally known to all gardiner's, The stock must be cleft in an even place, and the cleft so prepared with your knife, in the cleaving, that the sides be not ragged, both sides of the graft are to be cut down slopewise, and shoulders made or not made at pleasure; M. Austin well advises that the outside of the graft be bigger than the inside, unless the tree be big, but if it be so great as to pinch the graft much, then to make the inner side thicker a very little, that so it may preserve the outside from being so pinched, as to make the bark of the Cyon sit lose, and not receive the sap from the stock into the common channel, in such manner as is requisite for the begetting of a continuation between them.  
There are other ways of grafting very excellent; as in a great tree, to prepare your Cyon as for the shoulder-graft, and then to take off so much of the bark, the head being before cut off as that the slope may just fit the disbarked place, as in some of the figures of Inoculation. Sometimes the Cyon being so prepared we raise up the bark, as in the other figures of Inoculation; but to cut it off fit, I count the best way, and have often practised with universal success.  
Ablactation is the same with grafting, saving that in that way the Cyon remains on its own stock, and on the stock you gr●ft together. For the stock you graft, being planted by the tree from which you have your Cyon, you disbarke and cut the Cyon, so that the inward part of its bark may answer the like disbarked place in the stock, so they being bound up together, and not separated till you are sure they are surely incorporated, at which time the Cyon is cut from its own, and lives only by the other stock.  
It is an ordinary imagination that by this way of Ablactation, Heterogeneous conjunctions may be made to prosper, but those that consider that the cause of the impossibility of dissimilar plants thriveing by any way of Insition, is not the difficulty of their first uniting, but the disability of the root and stock to nourish the head with convenient nourishment, will not easily admit such a fancy; Pears upon Apples, and Services; Apples upon Thorns, and the like plants will with ease take, and continue in good growth longer than such time as is required that the Cyon should depend upon the mother plant in Ablactation for the fastening of it till cementation be made; But after a perfect conjunction, and great shoots spring out, they (almost constantly notwithstanding the greatest care) will die, which is an evident sign that this way can administer no help, it only providing that nourishment be not wanting to the first months, and not securing them from the danger of wanting for the future, fit and wholesome Nutriment for their maintenance and growth.   

N. 6. What Plants take on different kinds.  
This is a general rule for grafting, Inoculation, Ablactation, and conjunction by penetration, or any such way of propagation, that the Cyon or thing implanted be of like nature to the stock, to tell what nearness in every kind is enough, is matter of great Art; 'Tis known that Plums will not grow upon Cherries, nor Pears upon Apples for many years, though for a while they may prosper.  
I find that divers plants will take by enarching or Ablactation, that will not take by grafting; so Grapes, as the early red upon the great Fox-Grape; Apricocks also and Peaches, which being secured upon their own stocks, will admit implantation unto another also, and take unto it, which by grafting I could never bring them to.  
The strangest conjunctions that we observe to agree, are the Whitethorn with the Pear, Quinces with the Pear, the Pear with the Quinces, the Medlar with the Whitethorn, the Apricocks with Plums that are of full sap, and sometimes upon hard scurvy Plums, most use the White-Pear-Plums for that purpose; I find not but some other are as good (viz) the Primordian, Muscle, Violet. And it is true, that all roses cement and continue well upon briers, as on the sweet-briar, dogrose, I have Cherries that grow upon Plum-stocks which is Sir Hugh Plat's experiment from Mr. Hill. p. 113. and Currans upon Gooseberries: what duration they may be of I expect to learn. I am not convinced by experience that Pears upon White-thorn are worse in their fruit but if so I shall prefer Apple-kernells before Crabs for a Nursery. I have tasted very excellent Katherine Pears without stone or hardness, that came from a Thorn-stock: nor were they smaller or harder (which Mr. Taverner asserts) then ordinary fruit upon the proper stock, however I advise that such as shall for want of Pear, use Thorn-stocks, that they graft very low, for otherwise the Thorn not growing proportionably to the graft, will cause the graft to decay, being never able to grow thereon, unto the bigness usual in Pear trees.  
There are almost infinite stories of strange conjunctions which urge earnestly for credit, some of incisions made upon animal bodies: The Lord of Pieresch had a present made him of a Plum-tree branch which bore blossoms and leaves, which sprang from a thorn that grew in the breast of a Shepherd, this Shepherd having got this Thorn by falling upon a plumtree. Raw silk has grown on the eye brow of a Lady, mentioned by Borellus, observ. 10 cent. 1. being drawn through the flesh to stitch up the lips of a wound there, and the growth was so considerable that it required frequent cutting; and there was a Spaniard lately had a bramble that grew out of his belly. The improvement that from these and the like stories, the Author in the cited place proposes, is, That with the blistering plaster the bodies of divers beasts be excoriated and planted anew with silk, wool, or the like, where it may likely grow to the great advantage of the owners. When this has well succeeded, I shall propose another rarity from the first story (viz) That such who live about Glassenbury plant upon themselves some of that famed thorn that bears leaves on Christmas day; for if the button moulds, according to the story, made from the wood, kept their time of blowing upon the doublet, through the silk of the button, doubtless the plant grafted upon the flesh may grow through the very doublet too. Or in the mean time I shall wage on the success of my , as much as the observator shall do on his.   

N. 2. Rules for Grafting.  
The time of grafting, possibly is any time of the winter; I have seen Apples grafted in November, & at Christmas, and yet thrive very well; but the best time is, that which immediately precedes the spring: if possible let the Cyons be gathered before the trees shoot their buds though some will grow now and then, notwithstanding they be sprouted, 'Tis no matter though the stocks are budded; I have at Easter grafted above an hundred Apples and Pears without any fail.  
The best way to keep grafts a long time, especially in pretty hot spring weather, is to wrap them all in wet moss, or cover them with earth.  
Lute is made with horse-dung & stiff clay well mixed together; Mr. Austin advises, that in shoulder-grafting the Cyon may be put upon the West or Southside of the stock, because if so, those winds which are most dangerous cannot so soon break off the grafts as on the other sides.  
If you would have a spreading tree, put in a long Cyon; if a strait tree, put on a short one, or let but one bud thrive.  
Good bearing trees are made from Cyons of the like fruitfulness. Unbind grafts when they have shot great shoots, that the binding eat not into the tree, strengthen those that are weak with a stick tied above and below the grafted place, like Splinters to a broken bone, till the cementation be made and confirmed.  
If you would have store of any fruit quickly, cut off the head of an old stock, and graft thereon.  
To Trees that bear great heads, and are of a fast and binding bark, such as Cherry trees, some hard Apples, and other kinds of great fruitbearing, and other plants, it is esteemed necessary by some to put in more grafts than one, lest the sap finding not way enough, the tree receive a check and perish by the disappointment of the sap. However this reason may hold, certainly 'tis prudence to put in more Cyons than one in such trees, lest that one failing, the stock likewise die, being bark-bound and not able to put out a germane.  
Cyons are best chosen from the fairest, strongest, not under-shoots or suckers, which will be long ere they bear fruit, which is contrary to the intention of grafting; the prime use of which I believe rather to be the expediting, than the improvement of fruit.   

N. 2. Of Inoculation  
Inoculation is performed by takeing off that eye or little bud which contains the beginning of a bough provided for growth in the next spring, and planting it so upon another stock that the sap of the stock may without impediment or interrupt course pass unto the little eye (as I may call it) imperfect or inchoate bough, and serve it for Nutriment: For which operation the Bark must be cut either downright, with a cross cut on the top; the downright cut being about an inch long, and the cross cut only big enough to serve for the easy lifting up the Bark: and then the sides being lifted up with a Knife or Quill, the Shield is to be put in, and the lips or sides of the Bark before lifted up, are to be bound down upon the shield: Or the cross cut may be in the middle, and then the shield is to be made picked at both ends (otherwise in the forementioned way, the lower end only is made picked) and the four lips are to be lifted up for the letting in the shield. Others cut the Bark clean out in an oblong square, and cutting the shield exactly in the same dimensions and figure, apply it to the disbarked place in the Stock. Others cut their shield in the mentioned Figure, but take not off all the Bark answering the oblong square shield, but leave the lower part on the stock, under which they put the lower end of the Shield, and bind it down thereon. Other varieties there may be, and are used, some more of which are delineated in the annexed Figures: To take off the Bud clean from the Cyon, the best way is, to draw the lines of your shield through the Bark with your Knife, and to take off the rest of the Bark thereabouts, leaving only the intended Shield thereon.  
Having so far prepared your Bud before you take it off, remember to open the Bark of the Stock, for otherwise the shield will take hurt by the Air, which must be placed upon the Stock with all speed, and bound with something that may be of a yielding nature. The best way of taking off Buds, is with a Quill which is cut like a scoop, the one half, or two thirds, taken away for about an inch in length at the end: In taking the Bud off, be sure not to leave the Root behind; for bindings, use any sorts of soft Rushes that will hold tying, long slipes of Linen or Yarn.  
I prefer such binding as need not be taken off till I expect the springing of the Bud, for there is much peril in premature losing the bonds, yet 'tis necessary to unbind whensoever the Stock swells about the place of Inoculation. The time of Inoculating is, from the first time you can get strong Buds that will come off after the frosts are gone in the Spring, till such time as that the Buds then implanted may be fast cemented before Frosts return in the Winter. You may Inoculate with the last years Buds, which are strong commonly, and fit to be put in at Easter.  
Other Rules for Inoculation are, That the Cyon from whence you take the Bud be not weak, for then the shield will be so too, and likely bow or double in the putting in, which is a great reason why the double yellow Provence Rose is so hardly propagated by this means; other Roses, as the Rosa Mundi, Velvet, Marble, and Apples, Aprecotes, and the like, very easily, that the Bud be not sprung out much before it be taken off.  
If you carry Buds far, expose them not to the Sun, but cut off the leaves, or some part of them, and wrap them up in wet Moss or fresh leaves, to keep them cool.  
If the Bud take, in the March after cut off all that groweth above it, stripping away all the Buds that come forth elsewhere, or at the least all save one: some conceive one necessary for the drawing up the sap.  
Choose strong Buds for Inoculation, and strong Cyons for grafting, and put them always on a smooth place of the stock.  
Any thing may be propagated by Inoculation, unless the slenderness and weakness of the Shield hinder, that can be by grafting. Apples and Pears, though seldom Inoculated, certainly take. I have sometimes used to cut off the shield with a sharp knife flat, with part of the Wood thereto adjoining, and put it in so; But this way, though many take, especially in Apples, yet the ordinary way seems better and more certain. Some take off Shields without a Quill, slipping them off with their fingers; but this is the ready way to leave the root of the Bud behind on the Cyon, which being wanting, the other part of the Shield is unprofitable.  
A pair of Compasses made flat at the ends, and sharp with edges, is an apt Instrument to cut away Bark for Inoculation, both for a true breadth and distance all at once; and so likewise with the same you may take off the bud truly to fit the same place again in the stock, Sir H. P. p. 113.   

N. 3. Kirckers' Experiments concerning Insitions examined.  
Kircker, a Learned man, the Pliny of his time, after he had reproved the falsities in Wecker, Alexius, and Porta, who had asserted a change of colours and rare variety of flowers, by steeping those roots in juices whose colours were desired, seems to me as much to be blamed, in that he writes so confidently of things which are as much like Paradoxes, and equally gainsaid by experience.  
He says, that he doubts not, but has from experience these effects; That a white Rose, grafted upon a red, will bring that Rose we call Rosa Mundi, or a Flower both red and white. This I have often proved false by mine own trial: That a Gelsimine grafted on a Broom, will bring yellow flowers like those of the Broom; That I tried, and could not make to grow, so far it was from bearing any Flowers, v. Kircher: ars Magn. p. 13. C. 6. But that Jasmine upon Jasmine will grow and thrive, my own and others experience can attest.  
The same Doctor, in another Book of his, De Magnete, where he has many good Eperiments about that Stone, yet as to his 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉, either he is out, or there is greater difference betwixt the Country where he tried his experiments, and England, than I can imagine; I have tried Mulberries on Beech, Quinces, Apples, Pears, Elms, Poplars, and by grafting they would not take, yet he affirms they take easily; and more, that Mulberries are by conjunction with white Poplars, made to be of a white kind, and bear white Mulberries; That Pears being grafted on a Mulberry, being a red coloured Pear, such I suppose we call the Bloody Pear, and that a Peach being Inoculated on it, it sends forth a bloody Peach, are his assertions, which conjunctions I see will not with us take, but if they would, I could promise myself no greater alteration of colour thereby, than I find in the Flowers of Roses, which I have tried in very many different sorts, and experienced to follow the Cyon without any participation of colour from the stock.  
I having heard the same relation made of changing the colours of Tulips, by Artificial grafting the Bulbs of the white and red, and other colours, by proportionable indentments in each Bulb, tried it this year in divers Roots, and made the Insitions, and put together the parts as artificially as I could, according to the rules here given; but the event is, that the Bulbs come not up at all, but die upon the operation.   

Num. 4. The manner of growing by Grafts.  
'Tis proved by experience, that there is every year a new coat of Wood made to every thriving Tree, by apposition of sap hardened into a thin Board (as I may call it) insomuch that I have known divers Woodmen, that would boldly assert the determinate number of years, that any Oak, or other Wood, has thrived in, by the number of those several distinct Rings of Wood that are to be counted from the middle or centre of the Tree, to the outside of it, it being credited, and that I think with reason, that every one of these Rings arose from the opposed and hardened sap of every several year.  
Now in grafting upon a frim stock, it comes to pass, that the sap of the stock is opposed to the body of the Cyon, and so encloseth the Cyon with the last coat of the whole Tree, that there is, as it were, one and the same past of new Wood, that doth closely encompass the whole, both Stock and Cyon, which when hardened, grows to be strong, and of the same use that splinters are to a broken Bone; and Gardeners wisely provide for the strengthening of the compagination of the Cyon and Stock, until this sap be incrusted to a hardness; when the first year of their grafting, they do not only bind up the Cyon to the Stock, but use splinters of old Wood, that neither the wind, or other accidents, may dislocate what with Art was joined together. This first, for the manner of conjunction and fastening of the Woods: Nor do I make any difference between Grafting and Inoculation, because I am persuaded, that as there is in every Seed an actual Plant, so there is in every Bud an actual Bough, and that a Cyon and a Bud differ but as a greater and lesset branch.  
But how the sap of the Stock; suppose White Thorn can serve to make the Wood, Bark, Leaves, and Fruit of its Cyon, suppose a Pear, is a difficult question: For grant there be an elective attraction of sap from the earth; yet how shall a white Thorn choose that which is fit for a Pear? My thoughts are, that for those who maintain election of similar parts, it were best to suppose a great likeness in all Grafts and Stocks, as to their inward nature and parts, though not outward figuration; and there being this likeness in the substance, it will not be hard to conclude, that the Cyon, by altering the position of the same substantial parts, may make to the sight, smell, touch, taste, a thing of another fashion.  
For those qualities that affect the senses vary often in one and the same thing: The Apple in the beginning that is without smell, of sour taste, green colour, hard to the touch, shall in a little space be fragrant to the Nose, sweet to the , of a golden or ruddy colour, and soft to the feeling: And in a thousand instances 'tis found, that several positures of the same parts, shall produce several opposite colours, and other sensible appearances in the same thing: There is no inherent colour, either in the infusion of Galls or Vitriol (though limpid they are not) so dark or deep as to come near the blackness of Ink, which notwithstanding, being mixed, they produce it. Two other infusions of like colour, would not upon mixture arise to such an effect, because not able to dispose each others particles into such positures. Spirit of Vitriol, though without colour, disposes the parts of this Ink so as to destroy the blackness; Oil of Tartar restores both position of parts and pristine colour; and that it arises from different positures, may be argued, because there is a visible motion, striving, and local mutation in them, before these last effects are produced; and 'tis plain, that when the Ink, by reason of the spirit of Vitriol, disappeared, yet all the parts were there, for else it will not be imaginable how a limpid Liquor, as Oil of Tartar, should reduce the colours which it does not by itself generate, as it is plain, because restoring Letters written with Ink, and taken off with Spirit of Vitriol, it makes no blackness on the Paper, save only upon the Lines of the Letters: These two limpid Liquors likewise, being put together, turn into a good consistence and milky colour.  
But he that desires more instances of this kind and matter, that, according to this Doctrine, may much help the Theory of Colours, and particularly the force both of Sulphurous and Volatile, as likewise of Alkalizat and acid salts, and in what particulars Colours likely depend not in their causation from any salt at all, may beg his information from that Noble person (in order to whose command, for all his intimations to me are such I am now writing) who has some while since honoured me with the sight of his Papers concerning this subject, containing many excellent Experiments made by his Honour for the elucidation of this Doctrine; or otherwise, for the present, may see very good instances hereof in Dr. Willis his Treatise De Ferment, cap. 11. And truly, if Tastes, Colours, Smells, were not easily alterable, it would not be that we should from the seed of the same Plant attain to such change and variety of Flowers and Fruits as are mentioned above, nor of Flowers from the same off-set.  
But if there be supposed in the world, and all several Bodies, but one Element or material principle, from which by Natures undescryed Wisdom, in appointing it into several motions and changes of situation, and giving different Measures and Figurations to its smallest Particles, there arise all the varieties in the world, than there will be no difficulty how the same sort of matter should give substance both to the Stock and Graff, though Plants of different nature, and bearing different Boughs, Leaves, Fruits, Seeds, each from other; for if from any matter, any thing may be made without difference, then particularly the wildest stock may afford Elements fit to nourish the Boughs of any Plant, of how gentle and noble nature soever.  
But lastly, If all these Considerations be too troublesome, I can help a lazy Naturalist to an admirable expedient for the resolving this appearance; let him be content to believe, that when the Sap, gathered in the Root, comes to the place of conjuncture, it is there forced to undergo a total corruption and lapse into the Bed of its first matter, from whence, by a new generation, there arises a new sap, begot in the Tree by a specific faculty, which in a Pear graft may be called a Pear-sap-making-power, and so in all the rest: And for the commendation of this last way of Resolution, I must express this its excellency, that it is equally appliable to all things in the world, each thing being made (and the cause as easily believed) by some such thing-making power.  
Or it might not be amiss to entitle Diva Colchodea, the grand-general form-making-intelligence, to the production of all these effects, and in Romantic guise, to place her, as it were, in a non-erring chair, sitting in the very place of conjuncture of Cyon and Stock, and working by ways and arts belonging to her own Trade (and therefore, as her proper mysteries, not to be revealed) to the forming in most occult and admirable manner of the appearing effect.    

CHAP. VI Of the ways for, and Seasons of setting Plants.  
ALl Trees and Shrubs of Woody substance, that have Bodies able to endure the cold, are best set before the Winter, assoon as the Leaves begin to fall: A Quickset of this season, will far outgrow the like planted in the Spring. Artichokes and Asparagus Roots do exceeding well, being planted at this Season, if set in a rich warm mould, and well defended in the ensuing Winter from the violence of the frosts: Artichokes are with us set above an Ell distance, and thereby in the Winter, a Trench being made between the rows, the Mould is cast up on ridges for the defence of the Roots; and in the Summer, Coleflowers, or other Garden-stuff is set in the distances. For Herbs and choice Plants, especially those that are set without Roots, it is most fit and usual that they be set in the Spring, as Hyssop, Time, Savory, Marjerome, Wall-flowers, Pinks, Gillyflowers and Carnations, with this Caution; That by how much more tender each Plant is, in regard of cold, the later it requires to be set, and in the warmer place.  
For all bulbous and tuberous rooted Plants, it is accounted the best way for their preservation and improvement, that they be taken up every year out of the ground, and kept some time out of the ground. The Universal and Catholic order of all Bulbous Plants, says Laurembergius, is, that about St. James cyde they be taken out of the ground, and put in a place cold and dry, of a free air, not in the Sun, nor covered with Sand or Earth, or accessible to Mice; let them abide so a Month, or thereabluts, than set them again, when they are taken up, cut off the Fibres that grow from under the head: nor need any thus take them up every year (unless it be for the transplantation of the off-sets) by which forbearance, the stock of Tulips is very much increased. Ferrarius more particularly forbids the abiding of Anemones in the Earth all the Summer, as being found prejudicial to them by his experience. But Fritellaries, and Peonies, and the Crown Imperial, he will not have removed from their Beds, unless into a Cellar, in a pot of Earth.  
Nor are all taken at the same time, as he seems to intimate; for Narcisses and Crocusses are commonly taken up first, generally when the flower is gone, the leaf withered, and the Bulb full, it is the best season to take them up; some keep them out of the ground longer, as till Christmas, or after; as this year, being in London, my best Tulips, Anemones and Ranunculus', were in the House till the beginning of February, and yet did well enough: But commonly we re-plant them about Michaelmass, or thereabouts: some great Florists keep them out of the ground no longer than till they grow dry; some replant them in June, some in July or August; some take not up their Ranunculus Roots at all. Those gardiner's, whose Beds are apt to be over-flowed or soaked with cold water in the Winter, the later they set, I believe their Bulbous and Tuberous Roots will prove the better.  
The ordinary time to plant Anemones, says Mr. Parkinson, is most commonly in August, which will bear Flowers, some peradventure before Winter, but usually in February, March, and April, few or none abiding until May: But if you will keep some Roots out of the ground un-planted till Febr. March & April, and plant some at one time, and some at another, you shall have them bear Flowers according to their planting; those that are planted in Febr. will flower about the middle or end of May, and so the rest accordingly, & thus you have the pleasure of these Plants out of their seasons, which is not permitted to be enjoyed by any other that I know, Nature not being so prone to be furthered by Art in other things, as in this, yet regard is to be had, that in keeping your Anemones out of the ground for this purpose, you neither keep them too dry nor too moist, for sprouting or rotting, and in planting them, you set them not in too open a Sunny place, but where they may be somewhat shadowed.  

N. 2. Of the setting of Woods Fruit-Trees, and Plants uncultivated.  
Concerning Plants that are ordinarily set abroad, and are not cultivated in Gardens or Orchards, few observations can be made that are not very vulgar; 'tis greatly his interest that minds the thriving of his Trees, that they be set that the Roots may run just under the Turf, in the surface of the Earth, the higher the better, if they are kept moist at the root with wet straw, or the like, and defended from injuries the first year. I have seen soom plants so buried in a depth of thick clay or gravel, that they could not shoot for many years a sprig of a Span long, whereas others set orderly in the same place did thrive abundantly: And those that think to amend the matter by digging a hole a yard deep, or more, and putting in the Tree with a little good earth, do but cheat themselves; for the Tree would thrive as well upon a Stone Wall, that is washed with rain Water, as in that hole, when once the Root is come to the sides thereof: This I speak generally and not of such particular Trees as delight in a fingular Minera of Earth.  
And for Orchards, it is a very necessary requisite, that the Roots of Fruit-trees stand above the Gravel, Clay, or Rock, if any such be, provision for which I have known made two ways, the usual and most common is, to plant with such Standards which have no downright Roots, which may be gotten in any well ordered Nurseries, for in such, the Seedling Plants are taken up the second year, and the downright Roots being cut off short, they are set in beds for grafting, and by this means shoot their Root rather in compass, then directly downwards. The second way is a more unusual experiment (viz.) To set the Fruit-Tree on the top of the ground, without any hole digged, & to lay a load of such dirt as is found in streets to the root, upon the Turf; yet so, that the rain may abide, and not by reason of the bank, run from the root of the new set fruit-tree.  
For Wall-Trees, it is convenient the Roots be set at such distance from the foundation of the Walls, that they may have room in the Earth for their roots; a foot is a convenient space generally, for then the heads will without difficulty be drawn to the Wall, and the Roots not be prejudiced.  
Those Wall-Fruits that are set abroad, as Vines, etc. being-kept shorn in their Branches, and not suffered to climb, become good bearers, especially if they are set near the reflection of Gravelwalks, or upon other Ground kept bare from Weeds.  
For the planting of Woods in general, for increase of under Wood, Mr. Blith's way is generally approved; to cast up double Dirches, and plant any sorts of Wood in the form of a Quickset: Some sow seed on the Banks in orderly rows, and set likewise on the top, as well as both sides of the Bank. The time is, assoon as the Leaf is fallen, in any Wether or Season. The Plants in a more sound ground, are Ash, Oak, Elm, Sycamore, Maples, Crabs, Thorns; in a more moist Ground, as a drained Bog, Poplar, Willow, Sallow, Osier, which grow by Truncheons. In which watery soils, the way of raising Ditches is most necessary: For neither Willow, Sallow, Osier, nor any other Plant, will grow in a Bog, without soundness of ground: What Plants grow by cuttings, what by laying for the more ready thickening of Woods, may be seen above in the proper Chapter.  
There is a story freely defended and frequently, both in discourses Printed and spoken, that the chips of Elm, being sowed, will grow; but that is somewhat like Kirchers experiments,  in the Chapter of cuttings, and not a whit more true; otherwise, to sow those Chips would be a good profitable and frugal way for thickening Woods. The cause of the Country man's mistake (for I suppose not that this error arose from Philosophers) I imagine to be this: At the felling of great Elms many chips must needs be scattered, and fly round about the Tree, and be covered in Grass thereabouts; now the next year, after the fall, there arise generally great numbers of Suckers from the Toots of the old Tree, which roots, must emit all the sap they gather up into these Suckers, the great Trunk being removed. And these Suckers are easily mistaken to arise from the chips, because they always come upon the felling of Elms where chips are found, and grow at such distance as chips are ordinarily scattered.   

N. 3. Whether any Vegetables may be set so as to grow in the Air.  
There is a question now-adays frequently proposed, Whether there be more Soils then the ordinary Turf or surface of the Earth, tempered with some water, soil being meant for the ground, in which things may be set to grow. I need not speak much upon it, as to Water, which by Experiments related in the Chapter concerning Propagation by cuttings, appears to have a property to elicit Roots, and make them where they were not, and nourish the Plants by them after they were made; to which, I must add this circumstance, not before mentioned, that Periwinkle, and divers others, continued their growth by this nourishment alone, from year to year, not dying in the Winter: How long they might have continued, I can't assert, for being absent this Winter, and no fires being kept near, the water in the Glasses, was so raryfied by the Frost, that the sides could not contain it, but were forced asunder thereby, and so the Plants perished; whereas otherwise, they being set in a ●oom over my Laboratory, I question not, had many of them continued till now.  
Some put forward, that the Air might have the faculty of nourishing Vegetables ascribed to it: And no wonder, when Paracelsus makes it a sufficient nourishment for men, and brings instances for the proof of his assertion. But I find, That Onions, Tulips, and all Bulbous Roots, though they shoot out a green leaf, yet do very much lessen in their weight, and it appears, that this growth is but the motion of the same parts, or some few of them, to settle and gather in another place, and another order or situation in relation to each other; for the Onion particularly hath the thicker cover of the Bulb very much stretched out, and each covering, as it increaseth in length and breadth, by rising into a leaf, so the thickness considerable while it covered the Bulb only, decreaseth proportionably and is molden into a thinner, and more largely extended Vestment.  
I have hung up divers Sedums, Orpines', Tithymalls, and other such Plants, which I imagined most likely to grow by the Air only, and to increase and be augmented thereby, and found, that by all my endeavours, though the Plant grew well, yet they always lost weight, and never got the fourth part of a grain.  
Aloes likewise, though being hanged up in the air with a cloth dipped in Salad Oil, it sends forth for many years new leaves, yet it always grows less and less in weight, till at last the oldest leaves falling off, and new coming up, it grows to nothing.    

CHAP. VII. Of the means for the Improvement and best culture of Corn, Grass, and other Vegetables belonging to Husbandry; and of the ways for removing the several annoyances that usually hinder such advantage.  

Num. 1. Of the Annoyances to Land, and the Impediments that usually distemper it, to the disadvantage of the Husbandman.  
THe Impediments that with us hinder the Husbandmen from making the greatest advantage of their ground, are either the distempers of the ground itself, or some evil accidents that occasionally happen thereto, or to the vegetables growing thereon. The distempers are generally caused, either by the abounding of water, above all other principles, which causes coldness, and a Dropsical disposition in the Earth; or by the abounding of a dry Earth or Mineral, and the want of moisture and saltness, and that Spirit which should cause that motion in the insensible particles of the Earth, which is proper for the exciting the Seeds of all things, and so stirring the ground, that the several particles may be at liberty to enter the Bodies of Vegetables fit for them; the accidents come by blasting Winds, rapacious Fowls, Vermine, and Weeds, Fearn, Heath, Broom, and other improfitable Vegetables; of these, and the usual remedies against them, somewhat, and the best that at the present occurs, I shall speak in this Chapter.   

N. 2. Of the remedies proper to cure the excessive coldness and moisture in Lands, and the ways of Improvement thereby, in Grounds subject to these distempers, by draining, Pigeons and Poultry dung, Urine, Soot, Ashes, Horse and Sheep dung: Of Ground cold and dry, and how these soils may be appliable thereto.  
Bogginess and obstruction of Springs more or less, is generally the cause of the i'll or coldness that lies upon Lands, and breeds the Rush and other incommodities, and therefore the foundation of the cure, and improvement thereby, must be to remove this internal cause, by laying the ground dry, and draining the Bog: In the relation of which operation, and many more of this Chapter, I shall ease myself, by giving you Mr. Blith's observations and directions thereabouts, who was both a Practiser himself, and questionless a very faithful and true Reporter of his experience.  
In cold, rushy land, says he, the moisture, or cold hungry water, is found between the first & second swarth of the Land; and then ofttimes you come immediately unto a little Gravel, or Stonyness, in which this water is, and sometimes below this, in an hungry Gravel, and many times this Gravel or Stonyness lieth lower: But in boggy Land it usually lieth deeper than in rushy; but to the bottom, where the spewing Spring lieth, you must go, and one spades depth, or graft beneath, how deep soever it be, if you will drain the Land to purpose.  
And for the matter or Bog-maker, that is most easily discover d, for sometimes it lieth within two foot of the top of the ground, and sometimes, and very usually within three or four foot, yet some lie far deeper, six, eight, or nine foot, and all these are feasible to be wrought, and the Bog to be disovered; but until thou come past the black Earth, or Turf, which usually is two or three foot thick, unto another sort of earth, and sometimes unto old Wood, and Trees, (I mean the proportion and form thereof, but the nature is turned as soft and tender as the Earth itself) which have lain there no man knows how long; and then to a white Earth many times, like Lime, which the Tanner & White-Tawer takes out of their Limepits, and then to a Gravel, or Sand where the water lieth, and then one Spades depth clearly under this, which is indeed nothing else but a Spring, that would fain burst forth at some certain place, which if it did clearly break out, and ran quick and lively, as other Springs do, your Bog would die, but being held down by the power and weight of the Earth, that opposeth the Spring, which boils and works up into the earth, as it were, blows it up, and filleth the earth with wind, as I may call it, and makes it swell and rise like a Puff-Ball, as seldom or never you shall find any Fog, but it lieth higher, and rising from the adjacent Land to it, so that I believe, could you possibly light of the very place where the Spring naturally lieth, you need but open that very place to your Quick-Spring, and give it a clear vent, and certainly your Bog would decay; by reason whereof, it hath so corrupted and swollen the earth, as a Dropsy doth Man's Body; for if you observe the mould, it is very light and hollow, and three foot square thereof, is not above the weight of one solid foot of natural Earth, Day, or Land, whereby I conceive, that how much soever this mould is forced from the natural weight or hardness of solid Earth or Clay, so much it is corrupted, swollen, or increased and blown up, and so much it must be taken down, or let forth, before ever it be reduced; I therefore prescribe this direction: Go to the bottom of the Bog, and there make a Trench in the sound ground, or else in some old Ditch, so low as you verily conceive yourself assuredly under the level of the Spring or spewing water, and then carry up your Trench into your Bog strait through the middle of it, one foot under that Spring or spewing water, upon your level, unless it rise higher; as many times the Water or Spring riseth, as the Land riseth, and sometimes lieth very level unto the head of the Bog, unto which you must carry your Drain, or within two or three yards of the very head of it, and then strike another Trench overthwart the very head both ways, from that middle Trench, as far your Bog goeth, all along to the very end of it, still continuing one foot at least under the same, and possibly this may work a strange change in the ground of itself, without any more Trenching.  
Or thus you may work it somewhat a more certain way, but more chargeable, (viz.) After you have brought a Trench to the bottom of the Bog, then cut a good substantial Trench about the Bog, I mean, according to the form of your Bog, whether round, square, or long, or three or four yards within your Boggy ground; for so far, I do verily believe, it will drain that which you leave without your Trench, at the depth aforesaid, that is underneath the Spring-water round; And when you have so done, make one work or two just overthwart it, upwards and downwards, all under the matter of the Bog, as is aforesaid, and in one years' patience, through God's blessing, expect your desired Issue: And if it be in such a place as will occasion great danger to your Cattle; then having wrought your works and drains as aforesaid, all upon strait lines (by all means prevent as many Angles, Crooks and Turn, as is possible, for those will occasion but stoppages of the Water, and filling up of Trenches, and loss of ground, and much more trouble than otherwise.) Then you must take good green Faggots, Willow, Alder, Elm, or Thorn, and lay in the bottom of your Works, then take your Turf you took up in the top of your Trench, and plant them thereupon with the Soared downward, and then fill up your works levelly again, until you come to the bottom or neither end of your work, where your Trench is so shallow, that it will not endanger your Cattle; or rather take great pebble Stones, or Flint Stones, and so fill up the bottom of your Trench, about fifteen Inches high, and take your Turf and Plant it as aforesaid, being cut very fit for your Trench, that it may lie close as it is laid down; and then having covered it all over with Earth, and made it even as the other ground, wait and expect a wonderful effect, through the blessing of God; but if you may, without eminent danger, leave your works open, that is most certain of all.  
Other and second remedies for all cold Land, are Figeons Dung, Dung of Poultry, which abound in heat and volatile salt; these are only sowed by the hand, for fear of burning the Come in the chitting of the Grain: I have observed, where these Dungs have been over plentifully laid, that the place bore no Corn at all, when as in other places, where it was moderately strawed, the Crop was exceeding great. The same effect there is in Urine and Soot, from the same principles, (viz.) much eager spirit and volatile salt, and therefore the same caution is to be had in their use. I have seen half the Trees in a Codlinghedge killed, by watering them overmuch with Chamber-lye. Horse-dung, if not rotten, lying thick, will do the same, but rather by an actual heat which it creates by its fermentation, than by the power of single principles, as in the former instances, but the excess of it is harmful, being laid in such quantities as it may heat, and certainly burns the root of any ordinary Vegerables that grow near it. Sheep-dung, Fog-dung likewise, and all Soil and Litters of Cattle, by reason of their Dung, Urine, and heat of their Bodies, lying thereon, have a warmth in them, and are fit for cold Lands on that account; and by reason of their moisture, for dry Lands also; for it is to be observed, that many Grounds are dry and cold too, in all parts of the North and Northwest, as England lies, and in England many of our Wood-lands especially; and so all hot and moist soils are most proper for them: Burning and beaking is in many places very successfully used to this effect; The actual fire heating the ground, and the ashes of Fern, Brake, Heath, etc. of like nature, yielding a salt, very profitable for, and expedient to join with the other principles in the ground, to cause a fermentation and fruitfulness.  
'Tis a general rule, that there is nothing in animal Bodies, but will turn to excellent Manure: Their Horns, Bones, Hair, Hesh, both of Beasts, Fish, and Fowl, are very rich; and those that know the virtue of them, buy at Cities for the purpose, rags which are made of Wool, Sheep-trotters, stinking Fish, or other Offal of Animals, which must either be mixed with other Dung, or not laid over thick.  
But it is to be observed, That where moisture is rather required than heat, there floating by Land-floods, the dirt and mud of Ponds and Highways is most proper: where warmth and heat, is a greater need; there soil that is made by a mixture of the Offal of Animals, will be more to the purpose and advantage of the Husbandman.  
Lastly, 'Tis probable that any thing that has active parts in it, if it be not just of the nature of the ground, will raise improvement: Heterogeneous things, upon their meeting, ordinarily causing than stir, which is thought, by most Naturalists now, to have great influence upon Vegeration.   

N. 3. The ways of Improvement of dry, light, sandy, gravelly, flinty Lands, by floating, Marle, Chalk, Lime.  
Dryness is generally a great cause of barrenness, and is an usual annoyance in Sandy and gravelly grounds, more especially, in regard that they retain not the rain-water so well as clay, or Land of a mixed soil: The proper remedy for this defect, is artificial watering, which tempers the ground most properly for the improvement of the growth of the most useful Plants, Grain and Grass: For first, Water in its own nature and property is a soil, and has an exceeding agreeableness with the Bodies of most Vegetables, as appears by the experiments of their growth in water only. And secondly, There is a very considerable accrewment to dry, sandy, and gravelly Earth, by the fatty soil and wash that is carried both in Land-floods, and other Water, that having passed through Cities, Roads, or other places of like nature, are drawn over the ground, for the salt, and other the mixed earth, that was carried in the Flood, being apt to reside to the bottom, is left generally behind upon the Land; and the salt diluted in the Water, easily enters the Turf, and carries with it other Particles thither, where, by the heat of the Sun, (they being in conjunction with the Sand, Gravel, or other Bodies Heterogeneous, and unlike to themselves) they cause by their mutual fermentation, as is supposed, or some other way, that temper of ground which is most fit for the growth of all Grain, Grasses, and other Vegetables of general use.  
For drawing the water over Land, the use is, that by the eye or levelly which is easily made to help the eye: First, Discovery be made where the water may be conveyed over the most Land: Then Mr. Blithe advises, to cut our the Master Trench or Watercourse, to such a bigness, as may contain all the Land-flood, or at least, be able to bring it within the Land intended for this improvement: When the water is brought thither, carry it along in a foot broad Trench, or lesser, all along the level: If the level be too dead, the lesser stream will follow, so that a convenient descent must be minded, to give the water a fair passage. If there be discovered in this lesser Trench, any mistake or failing, it may with ease be amended, by going higher to, or lower from the level, and the first Trench be stopped up again, for this Trench need be no deeper than the thickness of the upper Turf: This done, the Watercourse must be cut out, which must be large enough to contain the whole Water which is intended for the enrichment of the Land, which largeness ought to consist in breadth, and not in deepness, for a shallow Trench, about a foot deep, is best for this work: When the Trench is brought near to the end of the Land, it is to be drawn narrower and narrower.  
Further directions the Author gives the Improver, in these words.  
As soon, says he, as thou hast brought the Water upon the Land, and turned it over, or upon it, be sure thou take it off as speedily as possibly, and so fail not to cut thy work; so as unless thy Land be very sound, and thy Land-flood very rich, thou must take it off the sooner by a deep draining Trench. Therefore I prescribe no certain breadth, betwixt floating and draining Trenches; but if the Land be sounder and drier, or lieth more descending, thou mayst let it run the broader; and as the Land is moist, sad, rushy, or levelly, let it run the lesser breadth or compass; and for the draining Trench, it must be made so deep, that it go to the bottom of the cold, spewing, moist Water, that feeds the Flag and Rush; for the wideness of it, use thine own liberty, but be sure to make it so wide, as thou mayst go to the bottom of it, which must be so low as any moisture lieth, which moisture, usually lieth under the upper and second swarth of the Earth, in some Gravel or Sand, or else, where some greater Stones are mixed with Clay, under which thou must go half one Spades graft deep, at the least: Yea, suppose the corruption that feeds and nourisheth the Rush or Flag, should be a yard, or four foot deep, to the bottom of it, thou must go, if ever thou wilt drain it to purpose, or make the utmost advantage of either floating or draining, without which, thy Water cannot have its kindly operation: The truth is, otherwise the benefit might happen to be no greater than the Patients, who incurred a Dropsy in his cure from a Fever; whereas by this means there is a double benefit, the first whereof comes by the commodity of watering, the second, by the draining Trenches necessarily annexed thereunto: And whereas the aforesaid Author commends watering or floating as an help to boggy, rushy, quagmiry Land, I suppose no benefit, but hurt would arise thereby to such Lands, if these draining Trenches did not open the passages of the obstructed Springs original causes of the Bog or Rushiness, as well as let out the Water newly introduced by the floating.  
The time of the operation for this improvement, must be when the Grass is all off the ground, for else the soil will slain it that comes along with the Flood: Often watering is good, but to keep it long in a place, breeds the Rush. By this very Husbandry, Mr. Blithe brings precedents of improvement of Land, from Eighteen pence, to Thirty shillings an Acre; and Mr. Plate, from One shilling to Five pounds.  
Another remedy for dry and light ground, such as abound in Sand and Gravel, is Marl, an Earth most commonly slippery, or greasy to the touch, sometimes blue, sometimes grey, otherwhiles yellow, now and then red, always fryable, so that it will slack after a shower, and not grow afterwards hard or crusty, as Clay doth, but easily resolves to a dust or powder: It saddens Land naturally, and so will turn Rye Land as to make it fit for Wheat, Barley and Pease, and therefore must not be used twice or thrice together, without some other more rarifying compost to intervene, such as ordinary Dung is; if you lay it down from Tillage, 'tis requisite that all Marled Land be first well dunged.  
Chalk also I have seen used with very good success in Hampshire, upon the Downs there, which are of so dry a nature, that it is grown Proverbial there, that their Ground requires a shower every day in the Week, and on the Sunday two; and Mr. Blithe affirms, that in Hertfordshire, by Chalk, the Improvement is made on Barren, Gravelly, and Flinty Lands.  
Mr. Blithe reports thus of Lime, that it is a suitabler Soil for light sandy Earth, then for a warm Gravel; 'tis improper for a wet and cold Gravel, but for a cold hungry Clay worst of all; for, says he, Lime being once slacked and melted, is of a cold nature, and will sadden exceedingly, contrary to its nature, in the Stone, for it turns light Land into such a capacity, that it will bear exceeding good Lammas Wheat, or mixed Corn: About twelve or fourteen Quarter of Lime serves an Acre, it may as well be over, as under-limed; after Liming, till not long, but return to Pasture.   

Num. 4. Remedies for accidental annoyances and hindrances of Improvement, particularly the ways to destroy Fern, Heath, Ant-hills, Moss, Rushes, Restharrow, Broom, or any such Weed or Shrubs that infect the ground: Whether liming of Corn prevents blashing, the effects of that and Brine in Improvement: Concerning Moles, and the ways to destroy them or drown them; a way of Antipathy, as to this effect, in Animals and Vegetables to the Bodies of their own kind, when they are in the way of corruption: Mr. Blith's way of preserving Corn from Crows, Rooks, etc.  
When any Land runs to Fearn, Heath, or Ant-hills, Mossiness, Rushes, coldness, or any other Weeds or Shrubs, as Goss, Broom, Furz, etc. The most proper and improving remedy, is, to blow it three or four year, and then lay it down in good heart. In which operation, care must be had to blow up the Weeds clean, and burn the Roots of them in heaps, which warms the ground, and to give it convenient dunging every year, for so the greater shall the improvement be. This Land must be cast into Furlongs, that the Furrows may convey the Water one to another into a general Trench, that it lie not upon the Land.  
If the Land be cold and moist, lay it the higher on ridges; if hot and dry, sandy, or the like, let it lic flat, that it may better retain the Rain water.  
Be sure you Blow up the Rushes, Brakes, or other annoying Weeds, and for fail let some body, with a Spade, follow the Plough, to root up such as are left after the Coulter and Ploughshare.  
Harrow this new broken ground with weighty, sharp, and long tined Harrows, such as 'tis a Teems work to draw, that uneven places may be torn up, and good store of mould raised. Cover your Seed with two or three sorts of Harrows, each Harrow having tines thicker than the other: some put weights upon the Harrows in the first, and a Thorn under them in the last operation.  
After four years' Tilth, lay down your Land, and that upon a Crop of Wheat or Rye, not on a Summer Corn, for so the Soared will come the sooner, especially if the Crop be sowed thin, and as early as may be: If you will double or triple the Improvement, the Husbandry of sowing Clover-grass, spoken of in the first Chapter, will here come in most properly. This last Ploughing, regard that the Ground be laid down smooth, yet on ridges if the Land be cold, and unless the Land be of exceeding strength, fail not to manure it, by dung, or otherwise, this last season of ploughing.  
Mr. Blithe reports, and Mr. Hartlip likewise, That the natural helps to preserve Corn from blasting, is the steeping of it in thick fat water, or Lime water, Urine or Brine, or the mixing of Lime or Ashes, with Corn well wet and moist, that so it may  itself with the finest of the Lime or Ashes, etc. so as it may fall clothed all over to the Earth, and so be covered therewith; But I believe he was mistaken in the applying of the Medicine to the prevention of the right and proper disease: I have heard such who practised these Medicines, affirm, that they have generally, and with reasonable good success, used those remedies to prevent smootiness; but the very last year it was observed, that where those means were used, the blast did as much harm, as on the adjoining Lands, where there were no such Applications made to the Seed. And blasting being the perishing of the tender Kernel, by reason of a Wind (which from the effect is sometimes called a red Wind) that too sharply, and it may be with some Venom breathes on it at its first beginning; I see no reason that such infusions or applications should be any defence, for it comes from an outward violence, and therefore it is most usually seen, that not half a Tree only, but half a bough shall be blasted, while the other half of the same, that grows by one and the same nourishment, remains free, sound, and well coloured.  
There is a procedure mentioned among Mr. Speeds notes, for Liming Corn that carries a good probability of advantage with it. First, The Grain was steeped in strong Brine of Salt, that would bear an Egg twenty four hours, and then being laid S. S. S. with Lime that is there, was laid a layer of Corn first, and then a layer of Lime, and then again a layer of Corn, etc. the Lime cleaved to the Wheat, and was sowed on Ground not worth Two shillings an Acre; the effect was, That it bore as good a crop of Wheat as ever was seen in England, and afterward three Crops a year of Clover, exceeding good, one whereof was equal in value to a Crop of Wheat: This being matter of Fact, I believe it, as to improvement by fertility, because the Brine works very considerably in small proportion, and Lime in this juncture may do well, both to fertility, and defence of the Grain against Grubs, and Infects, and Worms, that abide in the Earth; but surely as to blasting, and Crows and Birds that spoil the Corn in the Ear, it has no influence.  
Moles by watering are drowned, or driven up to so narrow a compass, that they may be easily taken; I have known them to have been forced to leave their holes to run upon the Turf, to save their lives from the Water-flood. Mr. Blithe relates, That one Spring, about March, one Mole-catcher and his Boy, in about ten days time, in a ground of ninety Acres, being just laid down from Tillage, took about three Bushels, old and young; they were not to be numbered, most of them being young and naked, and this he only did, by casting up their Nests, which are always built in a great heap, of double bigness to the rest, most easily discerned, and then the old ones would come to look their young, which he would snap up presently also: At another Season than March, which is their time of breeding, such success is not to be expected. In other times the best way is, if there be any Hedges near, to set the Gins or Traps there, for their ordinary roads are in such Hedges, and other places they cast up, are but of uncertain use; as when they intent forage for one time, though it may be that they mind the use of that passage no more at all. Bellonius advices to bury Moles in those places, whence you would drive the rest of that Vermin; and there may be somewhat in that remedy: For many living Bodies have a great dislike to, and antipathy against the putrified Bodies of their own kind: Thus Worms, putrified at the Belly of a Child outwardly, and the powder given inwardly, are esteemed as Medicines destructive to the Worm in the Belly, though the latter way is by some thought to breed more than it kills. Nay, in Vegetables 'tis agreed, That a young Orchard will not thrive among the Roots of an old rotten Orchard, the reason whereof, some suppose to be the antipathy of the young, against the old putrifying Roots; but of this effect, other reasons may be as probable.  
There be some other remedies for the same annoyances, as, particularly, for the destruction of Fearn, the Author named gives this prescription: In the Spring, when the Fearn gins to grow a little above the Grass, while it is young and tender, take a crooked Pole, or piece of Wood about six foot long coming in at one end like a Bow, or made like a blunt ; with this strike off all the heads of the Fearn, as low as you can, even to the ground, if possible; do this the second or third time, and it proves generally a certain remedy. The reason, as I suppose, is the putrefaction of the Fearn, it being a very moist Muscilaginous Plant, by its own juice, and the moisture of the Earth, by which the very Roots themselves come to be corrupted, or else the deprivation of all the Buds that germinate from the Root, by cutting off the Sprouts so unseasonably.  
For Ant-hills, to destroy the Infects, and take the hills down, this manner is prescribed; Divide the upper Turf into five or six parts, then take it down with a turfing Spade to the bottom of the Bank, the Turf being cut as thin as can be under the roots of the grass; then take out the Core of the Bank, that when the Turf is returned to its place, it may lie there lower somewhat than the surface of the Earth, that the moisture, which will be a certain destruction of the Aunts, may a little reside there: This must be done in November, December, or January, that the Roots of the Grass may the better take to the ground, before hot weather comes in the Spring.  
Among Mr. Speeds notes, there are these Recipts, take red Herrings, and cutting them in pieces, burn the pieces on the Molehills; or you may put Garlic or Leeks in the Mouths of their Hills, and the Moles will leave the ground. I have not tried these ways, and therefore refer the Reader to his own trial, belief, or doubt.  
I had almost forgot to mention the change of Seed from grounds of a contrary nature, which by the experience of Husbandmen is found very advantageous, and is thought to prevent smootiness. 'Tis the custom in Buckinghamshire, for those of the Vale to buy their Seed from the Chiltern, on this account; and this experiment is found profitable in Wheat, Barley, Pease, and all Field Grains; and not so only, but also in Garden Plants.  
For the preserving early or late sowed Corn, or the same when it gins to corn in the Ear, from Crows, Rooks, or Jack-Dows, Mr. Blithe has invented this Scarecrow: You must, says he, kill a Crow or two, and take them into the Field where they haunt, and in the most obvious, plain, perspicuous places, make a great hole of two foot over, and about twenty Inches deep, on the highest ground in the Field, which hole must be stuck round about the edges with the longest Feathers; the bottom must be covered with the shortest, and some part of the Carcase; and that Turf or Earth that is digged out of the hole, being laid round upon a heap, you may stick round with Feathers also. One Crows Feathers will dress two or three holes, and about six or eight holes will serve for a Field of ten or twelve Acres. The Feathers will remain fresh a Month, unless store of Rain or Weather beat them much; and then (if needful) they must be renewed.    

CHAP. VIII. Of the Means of Improvement and best culture of such Plants or Flowers as are usually cultivated in Gardens or Orchards, and of the ways used for the removing of such annoyances as are commonly incident to them.  

Num. 1. Of the annoyances in general incident to Garden Plants.  
THe Politician speaks it to be a part of as great skill and prowess to defend a place already gotten, and to improve it to the benefit of the Prince and Inhabitants, as it was at the first to arrive at the Conquest; this is alike true in the Gardinets Province: It is no easy thing with him to raise a stock of choice Plants, by the several ways of propagation above mentioned, and as hard to preserve them, being propagated, from destruction by foreign and intestine violence. For either the sharpness of cold, the torridness of the Sun, Vermine, or other accident from without, or want of convenient and nourishable soil of earth and water, and other Elements proportionable to the plant, will be such internal deficiencies, as to cause utter destruction: or the nastiness and premature, or on the contrary, the tardy and slow germination thereof will hinder its excellency; or weeds, or other vegetables, may grow up to its hindrance: and many other impediments there are, which with their several remedies, as they shall suggest themselves to my thoughts, I shall propose in the present Chapter, the last of this discourse.   

N. 2. Of defences for choice plants from cold.  
One great annoyance to all choice flowers and tender plants, arises from the violence of the Winter cold, the defence against which you shall have as far as I am able to give you, and can think of in the following directions.  
Let those Bulbous Roots that are tender, such as the great double white Daffodil of Constantinople, and other fine daffodils that come from hot Countries, the Ornithagolum Arabicum, purple Montain, Moly, etc. be planted in a large Tub or pot of earth and housed all the Winter, that so they may be defended from the frosts, or else, (which is the easier way) keep the Roots out of the ground every year from September after the leaves and stalks are past until February, in some dry but not hot or windy place; and then plant them in the ground under a South-wall, which are Mr. parkinson's directions.  
Alsoe the late Pine-aple Moly, the Civet Moly of Mompelier, the little hollow white Asphodill, which though its roots are not glandulous as to be capable of the last way, yet they are well preserved many years if by housing they shall be defended from the winter wet and cold.  
Rose-bay Myrtles, the Indian Gelsimines, Jucca Indica, Orange trees, must be housed in the Winter, so likewise, the Cypress, Bay, Piracantha, Myrtle, Pinetree, Rose-bay with Spanish seed, or at the least must be covered with straw, or Ferne, or bean-hame, or such like thing laid upon cross-sticks to bear it up from the plants till they are two or three year's growth and fit to be removed to their places, Arbutus, or the Strawberry tree, Sea-Ragwort, the Pomegranate, and the Indian Fig require the same care.  
Ferrarius commends a Garden house with Walls of thick moss as good, and so without question it is, against the Winter cold and Summer heat.  
Some defend their Myrtles, Pomegranates, and such other tender plants, either by houses made of straw like Bee-hives, or of boards (with inlets for the Sun by casements, or without them) Litter of Horse-stables being laid in very cold weather about the houses of defence.  
It was a custom in Italy, to make such fences for Myrtles (especially when young) as appears by Virgil's Verse.  Dum teneras defendo a frigore Myrtos. 
The Roots of the Marvel of the World, Mr. Park. has preserved by art a Winter, two or three, (for they'll perish being let out in a garden, unless it be under a house side or such dry place) because many times the year not falling out kindly, the plants give no ripe seed, and so gardiner's would be to seek for seed to sow, and Roots to set, if this or the like art to keep them were not used: 'tis thus, Within a while after the Frosts have taken the plants that the leaves whither and fall, dig up the Roots whole, and lay them in a dry place for three or four days, that the superfluous moisture on the outside may be withered and dried; which done, wrap them up severally in two or three brown papers, and lay them by in a box, chest, or tub, in some convenient place of the house all the winter time, where no wind or moist air may come unto them, and thus shall you have these Roots to spring afresh the next year, if you plant them in the beginning of March, as Mr. P. has by his own relation sufficiently tried, but some have tried to put them up in a barrel or firkin of sand and ashes, which also is good if the sand and ashes be throughly dry, but if it be any thing moist, or if they give again in the Winter, as it is usual, they have found the moisture of the Roots, or of the sand, or both, to putrify the Roots.  
The same Author takes notice that 'tis one great hurt to Gillyslowers in the Winter, and to all other herbs, to suffer the Snow to lie upon them any time after it is fallen; for it doth so chill them, that the Sun doth (though in Winter) scorch them up, shake therefore off your snow gently, not suffering it to lie on a day if you can; There is the like inconvenience from Frosts which corrupt the Roots, and cause them to rot and break, for prevention, take straw, or Litter of an horse stable, and lay some thereof about every Root of your Gillyflowers, especially the best sorts, close unto them upon the ground, being careful that none lie upon the green leaves, or as little as may be: Let it lie till March (with its winds) is passed. The general Remedy for these and all flowers, is to be covered with mats, which are removable at pleasure. The choicest of all are put in pots and housed.   

Num. 3. Of shades requisite to sundry Plants, especially when young, for their defence from the Sun and Wind.  
All sorts of Carnations, Gillyflowers, and Plants that are tender and young, especially your April and May Seedlings, are to be preserved and defended from the violent heat of the Sun, and blasting Winds: I have seen whole Beds of divers sorts of young Seedlings, utterly burnt up at their first appearing, by the violence of two or three hot days. Nor do Seedlings only require this, but all Plants that are not altogether wild, of how woody substance soever, that are newly growing, from cuttings, or parts without actual Roots.  
Shades are commodious, if not absolutely necessary to many Plants, even when they are well rooted, as Bays, Laurel, Savin, and most Wood-plants, a mixture of Shade and Sun to Strawberries; so that the Lord Bacon wittily advises, to sprinkle a little ●orrage-seed on the Strawberry-bed, for that the Strawberries, under those Leaves, grow far more large than their fellows.  
The best shades are made by thin well pruned Hedges drawn through the Garden or Nursery, or by Mats laid over them, and underpropt by a frame of light Poles: But all Seedlings, Flowers, or other Plants that are kept in Pots, are readily removed into convenient shade at pleasure.  

Of watering.  
Watering with water that has stood two or three days in the Sun, is absolutely necessary for all Stringy Roots that I know, at their first removals; and at any time, when any Trees or Plants are weak, by reason of Drought: All manner of Layers must be specially regarded for matter of watering; and those Plants which are to be propagated by the circumposition of a Basket of Mould, (to make Dwarf Plants, as they call them) are specially to be watered in dry times: All manner of Gourds, Melons, Cucumbers, even in ordinary weather, require this help, although already firmly rooted.  
But there is this difference in Plants, Those that require an hungry ground, shall well be content with thin water Suned: But Kitchen ground is best improved by fat water, wherein Ordure has been washed.  
And some caution is to be had, that by too much water you do not i'll or over-glut the ground, often and little is the best use, and in the Spring and Autumn when Frosts are feared, 'tis better watering in the Morning then at Night; in Summer, the Night I esteem the better Season.  
There is a pretty way of watering choice Plants, by wetting a streiner, and so letting one end of it hang over a Vessel of water, which will draw up the moisture from the Basin, and let it gently fall down the streiner to the Root of the Plant.    

N. 4. Examples of the best Culture of Hops, and ways of ordering them after they are first set, taken out of Mr. Blithe.  
When, says he, your Hops are grown two foot high, bind up with a Rush or Grass, your springs to the Poles, as doth not of itself, winding them as oft about the Poles as you can, and wind them according to the course of the Sun, but not when the dew is upon them; your Rushes lying in the Sun will toughen, says he, but surely better in the shade.  
And now you must begin to make your Hills, and for that purpose get a strong Hoe, of a good broad bit, and cut or ho up all the Grass in the borders between your Hills, and therewith make your Hills, with a little of your Mould with them, but not with strong Weeds; and the more your Hills are raised, the better, the larger, and stronger grows your Root, and bigger will be your fruit; and from this time you must be painful in your Garden, and be ever and anon, till the time of gathering, in raising your Hills, and clearing your Ground from Weeds.  
In the first year suppress not one Cyon, but suffer them all to climb up the Poles, for should you bury the Springs of any of your Roots, it would die, so that the more Poles are required to nourish the Spring. But after the first year, you must not suffer above two or three stalks to grow up to one Pole, but pull down and bury all the rest. Yet you may let them grow four or five foot long, and then choose out the best for use. As soon as your Pole is set, you may make a circle how broad your Hill shall be, and then hollow it, that it may receive the moisture, and not long after, proceed to the building of your Hills.  
And where you began, or where your Hops are highest, there begin again, and pair again, and lay them to your Hops, but lay the out circle highest to receive moisture; be always paring up, and laying it to the heap, and that with some Mould, until the heap comes to be near a yard high, but the first year make it not too high; and as you pass through your Garden, have a forked Wand in your hand to help the Hops that hang not right.  
Now these Hills must the next year be pulled down, and dressed again every year. Some, when their Hop bind is eleven or twelve foot high, break off the tops, which is better than they that have their Poles so long as the Hop runs: But if that your Hop, by the midst of July, attain not to the top of your Pole, then break off the top of the same Hop, for the rest of the time will nourish the branches, which otherwise will lose all, it being no advantage in running up, to the sto●k or increase of the Hop.  
In April, help every Hill with a handful or two of good Earth, when the Hop is wound about the Pole; but in March you will find, unless it hath been tilled, all Weeds; but if you have pulled down your Hills, and laid your ground, as it were, levelly, it will serve to maintain your Hills for ever; but if you have not pulled down your Hills, you should, with your Hoe, as it were, undermine them round, till you come near the Principal Root, and take the upper or younger Roots in your hand, and discerning where the new Roots grow out of the old sets, of which be careful, but spare not the other; but in the first year, uncover no more but the tops of the old sets, but cut no Roots before the end of March, or beginning of April. The first year of dressing, you must cut off all such as grew the year before, within one inch of the same: and every year after, cut them as close to the old Roots; those that grow downward, are not to be cut, they be those that grow outward, which will encumber your Garden, the difference between old and new easily appears; you will find your old sets not increased in length, but a little in bigness, and in few years, all your sets will be grown into one; and by the colour also, the main Root being red, the other white; but if this be not early done, than they will not be perceived: And if your sets be small, and placed in good ground, the Hill well maintained, the new Roots will be greater than the old; if they grow to wild Hops, the stalks will wax red, pluck them up and plant new in their places.   

N. 4. Mr. parkinson's way of ordering the seedlings of Tulips grown.  
After the Tulip seed is sown, the first years springing bringeth leaves little bigger than the ordinary grass leaves; The second year bigger, and so by degrees, every year bigger than other. The leaves of the praecoces, while they be young, may be discerned from the Media's, by this note which I have observed, ●he leaves of them do stand above ground, showing the small foot-stalkes whereby every leaf doth stand; but the leaves of the Media's or Serotines do never wholly appear out of the ground, but the lower part which is broad abideth under the upper face of the Earth.  
Those Tulips now growing to be three years old (yet some at the second year, if the ground and air be correspondent) are to be taken up out of the ground (wherein you shall find they have run deep) and be new planted after they have been a little dried and cleansed either in the same or another ground, again placing them reasonable near one to another, according to their greatness, which being planted and covered over with earth again, of about an inch or two thickness, may be left untaken up again two years longer, if you will, or else removed every year after, as you please, and thus by transplanting them in their due season (which is still at the end of July, or at the beginning of August, or thereabouts) you shall according to the seed and soil, have some come to bearing in the first ye●● after their flowering, some have had them in the fourth: (but that hath been but few and none of the best, or in a rich ground) some in the sixth and seventh, and some peradventure not until the eighth or tenth year. But remember that as the roots grow greater that in the planting you give them the more room to be distant one from another, or else the one will hinder (if not rot) the other.  
The seed of the Precoces do not thrive and come forward so fast as the Media's or Serotines, nor do give any off-sets in their running down, as the Media's do, which usually leave a small Root at the head of the other that is run down every year; and besides are more tender and require more care and attendance than Media's, and therefore they are the more respected.  
This is a general Rule in all Tulips, that all the while they bear bud or leaf, they will not bear flower, whether they be seedlings, or the off-sets of elder Roots, or the Roots themselves, that have heretofore borne flowers; but when they bear a second leaf breaking out of the first, it is a certain sign that it will then bear a flower, unless some casualty hinder it; as Frost or Raine, to spoil or nip the bud, or other untimely accident befall it.  
To set or plant the best and bearing Tulips some what deeper than other Roots, I hold it the best way; For if the ground be either cold or lie too openly in the cold Northern air, they will be the better defended therein, and not suffer the frost or cold to pierce them so soon, for the deep frosts and snows do pinch the Precoces chiefly, if they be too near the uppe most crust of the earth, and therefore many with good success cover over their ground before winter with either fresh or old rotten dung, and that will marvellously preserve them. The like course you may hold with seedlings, to cause them to come on the forwarder, so that it be after the first years sowing, and not till then.  
To remove Tulips after they have shot forth their Fibres or small springs which grow under the greater round Roots (that is from September until they be in flower) is very dangerous, for by removing them when they have taken fast hold in the ground, you do hinder them in the bearing out their flower, and besides put them in hazard to perish, at least to be put back from bearing a while after, as often I have proved by experience, but when they are now risen to flower, and so for any time after, you may safely take them up if you will, and remove them without danger, if you have any good regard to them unless it be a young bearing Root, which you shall in so doing much hinder, because it is yet tender by reason it beareth now the first flower, but all Tulip Roots when their stalk and leaves are dry, may most safely then be taken out of the ground, and be so kept (so that they lie in a dry, and not in a moist place) for six months without any great harm, yea I have known them that have had them nine months out of the ground, and have done reasonable well, but this you must understand withal, that they have not been young but elder Roots, and have been orderly taken up and preserved; the drier you keep a Tulip Root the better, so as you let it not lie in the Sun or the Wind, which will pierce and spoil it.   

Num. 5. Of annoyance by Plants growing too thick and near together, and of the remedy thereof, and improvement by pruning Trees, and setting them at great distances; plucking off the young Germens of Garden-flowers, to make the rest more fair; of the sizing of Turnips, Carrots, Parsneps; of Weeding.  
There is no greater hindrance to the growth and thriving of all Vegetables, than to be so crowded together, that their Roots, Branches and Leaves, interfere one with another; and therefore in all Orchard and Garden-plants, whose Fruit and Flowers you require fair, and whose growth you would have considerable, provide that they keep their distances: Appletrees, Pear-Trees, Plum-Trees, Cherries, and other Plants, are of divers statures, both in regard of one another, and of their own kind: Some Appletrees grow to much greater growth than some other, Pears to a greater growth than Apples, so that it is hard to appoint a certain distance for Trees in an Orchard, twenty Foot is space little enough for Standards of common Apples or Pears; but a certain rule is, to provide that one Tree shade not another, and therefore let the lowest Trees, if you intent to make the most of your ground, be set South, and the highest Pear-trees stand to the North; for should the higher Trees stand South, they would cast their shade over the rest of the Orchard.  
This Doctrine of setting Trees at such distances, the Husbandman hates, for two reasons; one is, Because it takes too much of his pasture from his Cattle; and the other is, That by this means he can have but little Fruit in his Orchard for many years: Therefore to gratify his covetousness, I shall propose him this practicable way of following and prosecuting my intention to the utmost profit, without putting him to the mentioned grievances. For first, I shall order that he plant his Orchard full of Trees, within three yard's distance one of another, or somewhat nearer, if he please; these shall bear him after a year or two, as many apples as a well grown Orchard usually carries: then let him set this ground to a gardener, that it may be digged and dunged seasonably, to bring Kitchen Plants, for from this Culture the Trees will receive great advantage. When the Trees are big enough, with the defence of a strong stake, and some Bushes, to be secured from Cattle, let him transplant them into Pastures of the best Soil, where they may stand at great distances to be shelter to Cattle, and no prejudice to the Grass: One Tree at such distance, shall bear as much as ten in some Orchards, and thus continue removing, as your Trees grow big enough. I count five or six inches about to be a good Size, the bigger they are, the more care must be taken in their removal, that the Root be transplanted entire as may be, without much disbranching it, or cutting away the spurs. And it is convenient, that in the heat of the first Summer, wet Straw be laid upon the ground about the Root.  
If you have no pasture to transplant into, sell your Trees to those that have, or set your Standards of strong Trees at twenty foot distance, and fill up the rest of the ground with Kentish coddlings, Nurse Gardens, Burts, which are cheap Plants, being propagated by Suckers, or with dwarf Trees, made by Circumposition, which may be cut down when the other Orchard thickens too much, and in the mean time are very plentiful bearers.  
Pruning Trees is used likewise chief to this intent, that the Rays of the Sun may have passage to all parts of the Tree, so that 'tis a good way for the Pruner to look upward from the North side of the Tree, upon the South and East, and to cut off, or rather make thin, such boughs which he finds so thick as to obstruct the Sun: All Boughs likewise that gall others, and that are actually dead; providing always, that the Boughs taken off be as little as may be, though the more in number, that so the sap may make up the Bark, and the Tree be not decayed by lopping of the greater stems: Which is very perversely done by most gardiner's, who think that to Prune a Tree, is to cut off the lower Boughs bigger or less, because they see small watery Fruit grow on them; whereas if the Sun was let in upon them, their Fruit would be rather more, than less forward, than that which grows in the middle of the Tree: I count it general, that the under-Boughs ought never to be cut off, but when you have respect to grass Roots, or other Garden-stuff, which grows under the Trees, or for the security of the Trees from the browsing of Cattle, so that to bare the Trunk of the Tree, for four, five, or six yards, as some do, and nourish it to no profit, but to bear and carry up the head to another Region, that Rooks may the better build therein, is a common folly, and ridiculous, if well considered.  
And for lopping off great Boughs, I may here add an observation touching Elms, which is, That if the top of an Elm of any bigness be cut off, the rot will immediately begin there, and by wet, and other accidents, run downward, and cause that hallowness which is ordinarily seen in Trees of this kind.  
Another Rule of pruning, is, That the Gardener never cut off those Boughs which are set and adopted for bearing, which is easily known for Roses particularly: Rasps and Vines always bear upon a fresh sprout, shot forth the same Spring, so that the more you prune a Rose, Rasp, or Vine, the more fresh sprouts of that Spring's growth are emitted, and the more such sprouts, the greater number of Roses, Rasps and Grapes succeed, unless some particular accident destroys them. Many Fruits bear from the shoots of the antecedent Spring, as the generality of Apples, Pears, Peaches, Nectarins, Aprecots: Many seem to grow from Wood of longer growth, but in that a man may be easily mistaken, because a very little, and a Spring of scarce discernible growth, may be enough to serve as a foundation to the pedal of the Blossom or Fruit, which standing on the old Wood, it may be thought that the pedal or stalk of the Fruit, stands immediately on the Wood, and that there was no Spring interceding. Sometimes the Blossoms of the same Tree, stand both on the Wood of the present and antecedent Spring, as it is frequently seen in Kentish coddlings, Nurse Gardens, great bearing Cherries. But where ever the Blossoms are, and there are many Buds fitted and prepared for bearing, they are discerned by the skilful Gardener, and may be seen by any person, for those are more full in their shutting up than other Buds are, and stand not so close made to the stem of the Branch whereon they grow, and contain more small leaves in their Body then other Buds, being, as I apprehend, the actual rudiment of the ensuing Blossom: Such Boughs therefore, whereon plenty of these full made Buds, or inchoate Blossoms are seen, the Gardener spares, if he is wise, for the present year, and (where he may) prunes off such whereon he sees no such propension to fruitfulness.  
The fairness and largeness of Flowers and Fruits are very much augmented, by preventing the running up a multitude of Stalks from the same Root: The Gardener observes this precisely in his Carnations and Gillyflowers, not suffering above one, two, or three Spindle's upon such Roots or Stools where he intends a greater fullness and largeness in the Flowers; and in Anemones the observation is, That if any of the Latifolia's bring a single Flower, on the same Root with the double, than the cause usually is, the standing of too many Eyes or Germens, and their depending from the same Root; and the remedy in like manner, nothing else but the taking off those Off-sets or Suckers, and parting them from the principal Root, which otherwise is rob of that matter which might raise in each Flower, both fairness and multiplicity of leaves.  
Shrubs likewise that bear either Fruits or Flowers, are to be governed in like manner; Goosberries and Currants degenerate to smallness, or bear not at all, without this care and provision, that the Suckers be taken away: This observance is likewise absolutely necessary to Damask Roses, for when they grow up to thick Bushes they scarce bear, whereas being kept to grow in one single great stem, being orderly cut, and not growing in the shade, they bear exceedingly.  
For Vines, it is a Proverb, make your Vine poor, and it will make you rich: The fewer principal Stems are left, the more it bears, and the reason is, because the Grapes are borne upon shoots of the same Spring; and those shoots then most plentifully arise, when the head of the Vine, in proportion to the Roots, is least, as 'tis seen in all Trees, which shoot out more immediately after their heads are lopped, than any other year. Pompions follow the nature of Vines, and as two or three stems is enough for the Vine, so two or three runners, and no more, aught to be permitted by him that intends the greatest fairness of this fruit.  
It may be proper enough here to speak of Weeding and Sising: The latter operation is, the plucking up Roots or Plants that are of use in themelves, but offensive to others in the same Beds, by reason of their nearness: Thus Turnips are howed up when they stand within a foot distance each of other; for it is best, when at their full growth their leaves touch not one another: Carrots are plucked up, when they are an inch Diameter at the head, for than they are of use, or sooner, if the thickness of their standing require it; and this is general for all Roots, Parsneps, Radish, Skirrets, that grow by Seed: Some sow (as I mentioned above) Parsneps, Carrots, Radish, and Salad Herbs in the same Bed, first Sising out the Salad Herbs and Radish, than the Carrots as they grow, leaving the Parsneps till Winter, by which means their ground is always full, yet by reason of the Sising in due times, never overburdened.  
The culture of Strawberries requires somewhat like sizing, (viz.) The cutting off, immediately after bearing, the spires and strings, which would multiply unto too many Roots and Branches, to have plenty of fair Strawberries: Nor is this once only to be done, but as often as they spring anew, so often are they to be taken off, until the time of the Blossoms draws on; I have seen some that were not over curious to tear off the strings by harrowing up and down their Beds of Strawberries with an Iron Rake.  
Some make a question, Whether Plants of the same kind, by reason of a supposal that they require the same parts for nourishment; or Weeds and Grasses, by their too great vicinity, may create more annoyance to their Neighbours, I decide not the question, nor can reconcile the Gardener to Weeds, whilst he finds his strongest Plants destroyed by them: I have seen many Trees in a well grown Nursery, spoiled by the Grass that grew amidst them; and as I remember, the very Bark of the Trees themselves was rotten, by a dew cast upon them from the Grass: I have likewise observed, a strongly grown Quickset of White Thorn, to have been destroyed by Alexander's, which it is at the Readers choice to account as a Weed or cultivated Plant.  
The time of pruning generally is the dead of Winter, for such Plants as consist of a Woody substance: Pompions are deprived of their superfluous creepers, and other Gourds likewise, at their first time of springing and divarication of their Branches. The season of pruning for acceleration of ripeness, is when the fruit is made, and gins to grow to some bigness, as generally they are, about Midsummer: Some have a third time of pruning Wall-Fruit, viz. at the time when the Fruit is taken off, as they do Roses likewise, when the Flowers are newly gone.  
To cut the Branches or Sprigs of a Flower or Tree quite off, cannot properly be called pruning, yet sometimes it proves an useful operation for such Plants as are stunted, as they call it, in their growth; Trees that are crooked, or have been bitten with Cattle, or are grown old: Thus Woodmen count it best to cut those Stools of under-Wood down to the Root, that it may begin to shoot afresh, that have been much browsed by Cattle; and cut down their hedges to the Roots when they grow old and Mossy.  
Gardiner's likewise, if by reason of a sharp Winter their Anemone's are pinched with cold, and starved, let them not immediately run to flower, but cut off the first Springs to the ground, that in a better Season they may lay a stronger Foundation for the bearing of fuller and fairer Flowers.   

N. 6. Of Pismires, Earwigs, Canker and rottenness in choice Plants, Caterpillars, Mossiness, Bark-binding, Bursting of Gillyflowers.  
There are many other annoyances to Vegetables, and generally sooner reckoned than remedied, a word or two I shall speak of as many of them as come into my mind: Pismires, especially those of the black kind, are exceeding troublesome in some Gardens, for they climb the highest Trees, and spoil the Fruit, are commonly esteemed remediless. Bellonius, who took exceeding pains for improvement by Vegetables, commends the decoction of Broth made of any sort of Spurge, as very efficacious for this purpose: Some draw them to one place, by burying Carrion where they most resort, and then scalded them with seething liquor.  
To divers choice Flowers, but Carnations and Gillyflowers especially, Ear-wigs are a great annoyance: Mr. P's way of setting Beasts Hoofs among the Flowers, upon sticks, to take them, is used of every Body here, and generally liked: Some that set their Flowers in Pots, set the Pots in Earthen Plates, with double Verges, containing water, or water mingled with soot in the outward verge, to drown the Vermin that shall attempt the pots, and rain water in the second, which may pass through the holes of the pots to water the earth therein contained.  
The rottenness and hollowness, that through age & too much moisture bulbous and tuberous roots, and the best Anemones especially, are subject too, is thus provided for; the disease must be laid open, and the rottenness cut out so, that in the root there be no capacity left to hold water, which I have often mentioned to be a great Enemy both to them and Tulips. Ferrarius, and some others, prescribe Plasters of Rosin, Turpentine, and Wax, to apply to the Cicatrices of the wounded Root, which notwithstanding, I have no great regard for. The same Author says, that in moist Winter's Anemones do best in pots, in dry, better in beds: With us they are seldom potted, but the borders for these Plants are usually laid on pretty high ridges, as Husbandmen lay their Corn Land in deep and moist ground, to prevent the mischiefs that usually happens by too much wet.  
Mr. Parkinson says, That if you perceive that your Gillyflower leaves change any of their Natural fresh colour, and turn yellowish, or begin to whither in any part, it is a sure sign that the Root is infected with some canker or rottenness, which will soon show itself in all the rest of its branches, and therefore betime, (else 'tis in vain) advices that you cover all, or most of the Branches, with fresh Earth, or else take the fairest slips from it, or according to Art lay it: This way of Mr. P. may be applied unto other Vegetables.  
I know no better way to destroy Caterpillars, Palmer worms, and other Vermin of that kind, then by crushing their Eggs; as soon as they are laid upon the leaf by the Fly, some brush them off with wet : 'Tis observed, that the little Fly that usually blows upon the Cabbage, chooses such Plants as are youngest, and especially those that were raised in hot beds, or endured least of cold in the Winter preceding.  
Mossiness of Trees, comes generally either from the barrenness or coldness of the ground, and therefore I count it vain to attempt the removal of it, without taking away the cause, and making the ground better; which being done, it will be proper enough to rub down the Trees in a wet day with an hair cloth.  
Trees likewise are sometimes Bark-bound, especially such, the grain of whose Bark runs round the body of the Tree, as in Cherry-trees, and not strait upward, according to the grain of the Tree, as in Apples, Pears, etc.  
For the Bark is not generally, as I suppose, nourished by apposition of a new rind to it, as the substance of the Tree is, but by interposition of particles, amidst the particles of the rind already made, which if it be so hard as not to admit other Particles for its enlargement, there can be no new addition of a new coat of wood, which ought to accrue every year to the Tree, for there will be no space wherein the sap may ascend, which is to be hardened into such new wood, unless by renting the whole coat of Bark, which sometimes happens.  
The remedy for this disease, both in Cherry-trees, and other Trees, those chief whose Barks are hardened and gro●n crusty by long standing in shadowy places or barren ground, is, that the year after their removal, or upon addition of better soil in straight grained Barks; and without either removal or addition of soil in Cherry-trees, and other cross grained Barks, or in any Trees whose Barks rend of their own accord, the Barks be slit from the top of the Tree to the bottom of the stock, and that according to the bigness of the Tree, in one, two, or three places: This is a Chyrurgical remedy that never fails, and is easily performed.  
Carnations and Gillyflowers, happen to be often deformed, especially those which are of the largest sorts, by bursting the Calyx, Cellar, or Case wherein they are set, and the usual remedy is, to enlarge the five incisions proportionably, by cutting them deeper with a Knife; or to steep ordinary Beans in Water, and then slipping off the outward coat of the Bean, to put it (the end being taken off) upon the head of the Carnation, which will keep the five lips together, and preserve the Flowers from breaking; nor will these Hoops, made of the coats of Beans, shrink with the heat of the Sun, as those made of the rind of Willow, slipped off for the same purpose, usually do: One Bean is long enough to make two hoops, for they need not be above a quarter of an inch in breadth.   

Num. 7. Of improvement and melioration of divers Salad Herbs, by blanching or whiting, from the French Gardener, and Mr. P's Observations.  
The Lettuce-Royal, being, upon removal, set at a foot or more distance, when you perceive that the Plants have covered all the ground, then in some fair day, and when the morning dew is vanished, you shall tie them in two or three several places one above another, which you may do with any long straw, or raw hemp, and this at several times, (viz.) Not promiscuously, as they stand, but choosing the fairest Plants first, to give room and air to the more feeble, and by this means they will last you the longer: The first being blanched, and ready before the other are fit to bind.  
If you would blanche them with more expedition, you may cover every Plant with a small earthen pot, fashioned like a Goldsmith's Crucible, and then lay some hot soil upon them, and they will quickly become white.  
Concerning Succories, Thus,  
There are several kinds of Garden Succories, different in leaf and bigness, but resembling in taste, and which are to be ordered alike.  
Sow it in the Spring upon the Borders, and when it has six leaves, replant it in rich ground, about eighteen inches distance, paring them at the tops: when they are grown so large, as to cover the ground, tie them up, as I instructed you before, where I treated of the Roman Lettuce; not to bind them up by handfuls, as they grow promiscuously, but the strongest and forwardest first, letting the other fortify.  
There is yet another fashion of blanching it: In the great heats, when instead of heading, you perceive it would run to Seed, hollow the Earth at the one end of the Plant, and couch it down without violating any of the leaves, and so cover it, leaving out only the tops and extremity of the leaves, and thus it will become white in a little time, and be hindered from running to Seed.  
Those who are very curious, bind the leaves gently, before they inter them, to keep out the Grit from entering between them, which is very troublesome to wash out, when you would dress it.  
Remember to couch them all at one side, one upon another, as they grew being planted, beginning with that which is nearest the end of the Bed, and continuing to lay them, the second upon the first, and the third upon the second, till you have finished all the Ranges.  
I find likewise two other manners of blanching them for the Winter; the first is, at the first Frosts, that you tie them after the ordinary way, and then at the end of eight or ten days, plucking them up, couch them in the Bed where you raised them from Seeds, making a small Trench cross the Bed the height of your Plant, which will be about eight Inches, beginning at one end. In this you shall range your Plants side by side, so as they may gently touch, and a little shelving; this done, cover them with small rotten dung of the same bed: Then make another furrow for a second range, in which order, lay your plants as before, continuing this order till you have finished: And last of all, cover the whole Bed four Fingers thick, with hot soil fresh drawn out of the Stable, and in a short time they will be blanched. If you will afterwards cover the bed with some Mats placed aslant, like the ridge of a House, to preserve them from the Rain, they will last a very long time without rotting: When you would have any of them for use, begin at the last which you buried, and taking them as they come, draw them out of the range, and break off what you shall find rotten upon the place, or that which has contracted any blackness from the dung, before you put it into your Basket for the Kitchen.  
A second manner of preserving it, is, to inter it, as before, in furrows of Sand in the Cellar, placing the Root upmost, lest the Sand run in between the leaves, and you find it in the dish when they serve it. You need not here bestow any dung upon them, it is sufficient that the Sand cover the Plant four fingers high; and when you take it out for use, before you dress it, shake it well, the Root upmost, that all the Sand may fall out from the Leaves. Take them likewise as they happen to lie in the Ranges.  
His directions for blanching Endive, are, that you cover it only with reasenable warm dung, and drawing it out at the first appearance of Frost, that you keep it under Sand in your Cellar, as you do other Roots, but first it must be almost white of itself.  
The whiting of Endive, Mr. Parkinson commends, when done in another manner: After, says he, that they are grown to some reasonable greatness, but in any case before they shoot out a stalk in the midst for Seed, take them up, and the Roots being cut away, lay them to whither for three or four hours, and then bury them in the Sand, so as none of them may lie one upon another, or if you can, touch one another, which by this means will change whitish, and thereby become very tender, and is a Salad for Autumn and Winter. Fennel is whited by some in the same manner, for the same use.  
To procure the Chard of the Artichokes (which is that which groweth from the Roots of old Plants) you shall make use of the old Stems which you do not account of. For it will be fit to renew your whole Plantation of the Artichokes every five years, because the Plant impoverishes the Earth, and produces but small fruit.  
The first Fruits gathered, you shall pair the Plant within half a foot of the ground, and cut off the stem as low as you can possible; and thus you will have lusty slips, which grown about a yard high, you shall bind up with a wreath of long Straw, but not too close, and then environ them with dung to blanche them.  
Thus you may leave them till the great Frosts, before you gather them, and then reserve them for your use in some Cellar, or other place less cold.  

N. Of Acceleration and Retardation of Plants, in respect to their Germination and maturity.  
Acceleration of Plants in their Germination and Maturity, is ranked, by the Lord Verulam, among the Magnalia Naturae, and is an operation that all Artists can do something in: though I know not any that arrive to the performance of those grand proposals of some Writers, as that of raising Salads within an hour or two, whiles a Joint of Mutton is roasting: The late King of France, has been reported to have known a secret process that would produce this effect, and to have esteemed it at a high rate: Cichory was the Seed, as I was informed by Monsieur Gissonius, which he was wont to raise so soon into his most famed Salad.  
I have tried divers of the Experiments proposed for procuring those wonderful speedy Germinations, and that by long infusions in Milk, strong Muck-water, and sometimes have added unquenched Lime unto the infusions, according to the Experiments set down by a late Writer, who asserts, that by these usuages, Beans, Pease and Parsly Seed would grow up in few hours, and can only give the Reader this fruit of my pains, that without any further trial, he may from my experience be ascertained, that the advantage in acceleration is exceeding inconsiderable by any of these means. It was, by my trial, found much less than I imagined could have been by any infusion, for none of the Seeds (of which I tried many sorts) came up the first three or four days; and except Radish, none came up in a fortnight's time, though they were sown in August, and watered.  
I have likewise tried the Experiment of Ashes of Moss: First, burning a great quantity of Moss to ashes, and then taking some of the richest Garden mould I could procure from a rotten hot Bed, and mixing it with the ashes, I moistened it with exceeding good Muck-water several times, and let it as often dry in the Sun; this I did in glazed pans, that the Salt might not be washed from the Earth; then I sowed Seeds, some unsteeped, some steeped, and in the beginning of September set the Pans upon the Leads of an House: But in effect, the Salad sprang not up that day, nor many days after.  
The next day I set into some of the same kind of Soil, made up of Moss-ashes and dung, watered as above, divers Seeds steeped in Spirit of Urine alone, Spirit of Urine with water mixed, Spirit of Urine mixed with phlegm of Elderberries, all without success, though I set them in a Pan of Earth over a gentle fire, to speed the Germination: Formerly I have seen Spirit of Nitre tried, but to no purpose; some speak of working these sudden Germinations by somewhat made of Salt, Spirit, and Oil, chemically united into one Body, which when they shall discover unto us, or otherwise make us possessors of, we shall have a better opinion of the related experiment.  
As to ordinary Acceleration, hot Beds are the most general and catholic help, and certainly forward Germination much: For Cabbage-seed sown in the Spring on a hot Bed, I have seen, to bring Plants that have in their growth and bigness overtaken such that were replanted before the antecedent Winter, and so were in the ground, at the least, half a year before them; and that in the same sort of Soyl. It is certainly true, that the Germination will be the more quick, the hotter the weather is; and the larger the bed of Dung is made, and the more it is helped by the reflection of Brick Walls, or other like advantages: The manner to make these hot Beds, is mentioned in the first Chapter, and their use there described.  
Mr. Speed, Cap. 14. Of Musk-melons, Gives us from the testimony of two Noble Men, this advertisement: The way, says he, to have as good Musk-melons as any are in Italy, without the unwholesome use of the Muck-Beds here in London, is confirmed by the Earl of Dorset. Plant them under a Wall, Pale, or Hedge, on the Sunny side, with very good Mould purposely prepared, and underneath the mould lay a quantity of fresh Barly-straw, and by this easy means, using the seasonable covertures and necessary furtherance, you may attain to your uttermost desire, without any further trouble. But if you do discern the Straw to make the Earth too hot, thrust in a Stake through the mould to the straw, that the vapour and heat may evaporate and pass forth.  
For Acceleration of maturity in all Wall-fruits, the practice of Midsummer pruning is every where almost observed, which is, the cutting off all parts of the shoots that are grown out far beyond the Fruit, and do otherwise take away both the sap that might advantage the Fruit, and the benefit of the Sun likewise: This operation in Vines is called gelding, and is usually transferred to Pompions, Musk-melons, and Cucumbers, and like Fruits, to accelerate their ripeness: The Joint beyond the last Cluster of Gourd, is the place where the Creepers or Shoots are to be nipped off in Vines or Gourds: In other Wall-Fruit the Gardener eclipse them at a convenient distance from the Wall, so as not to take away all the shade from the Fruit, which in some proportion is necessary that the Fruit be not dried up, and burnt upon the Tree by the Torrid heat of the Midsummer Sun, in such places where his rays are reflected from a Wall or Floor, or both.  
'Tis also observed that in Wall-Fruit, or any other that requires a reflected heat, in order to the ripening of the Fruit; the lower the Boughs are spread, the sooner the Fruit ripens on a Wall: And in Standards, the lower and nearer the Earth any Plant is kept, the better shall it ripen, by reason of the reflection made from the surface of the Earth; which if be bare from Weeds, is equal to the reflection from some Walls. In France, Vines have no other reflection but this, being tied to stakes, and not suffered to grow above a yard high; and in many places of England this only advantage, without Walls, brings Grapes to that maturity which is ordinary in our Island.  
The twisting of the stalks, whereby the Bunches of Grapes are joined to the body of the Vine, done at such time when the Grape is come to its full bigness, is practised by some for the accelerating maturity; and it may be, that by this twisting, the Channels, that might otherwise carry more crude Sap into the Grape, being broken, the heat of the Sun may more speedily reduce that which is already possessed by the Grape into sweetness, then if sour and undigested Juice were still supplied from the Vine.  
Retardation, or hindering Plants from running to Seed, is likewise of use for the preservation of the Root and Leaf; for there are many Plants, whose last endeavour being to bear Seed, presently die in all parts of them as soon as the Seed is perfected.  
Of this kind are your best Carnations and Gillyflowers, the hope of whose continuation is only by those Slips that are not like to bring Seed the present year; to this kind also belong divers Herbs, such as are Parsely, Scurvygrass, etc. The Spindle's therefore of all such are timely to be cut off, the younger the better, in choice Plants, for fear of killing the Root; and hereby plenty of Branches and Off-sets, or side-Plants, will arise from the old Stem, Stool or Root. Nay, 'tis observed by our Gardeners, as like wise by Ferrarius, in his Chapter of the culture of Tulips, That if those Flowers are suffered to grow to Seed, the Bulb thereby is certainly much emaciated, and sometimes utterly perisheth; and therefore, on all hands it is counted good to gather Tulips as soon as may be.  
Some of the ways of Retardation are generally known, as particularly the experiment of plucking off Risen Buds as often as they spring, until the time you intent they shall proceed to flower; or the making the Pranches of the Rose Tree bare of Shoots once or twice in the Spring, for this purpose, are not unfrequently practised. And I have been informed by a Person of Credit, that at Bristol he saw Raspes sold for four pence the quart at Michaelmas, which were thus retarded, by setting the Plants late in moist ground the same year: All which ways, I suppose, may well be transferred to other Plants of like nature, and this last way is not so common. I have before mentioned its use for the retardation of the Flowers of Anemonies.  
There is some use of retardation to all such Plants which so prematurely blossom, that they be subject to blasting by Spring-Frosts; I know nothing used to prevent this annoyance, but the opening of the Root, and suffering the Snow, and Snow-water, to lie thereon and chill the ground; but of the benefit or danger of this remedy, I have no experience.    

Num. 8. Of melioration by Richness, or other convenient Minera in the Soil, for the feeding and better nourishment of several Plants: Of artificial Begs, and the change of Seed, as a means to bring fair Flowers: Of Exossation of Fruit, or making it grow without Stones.  
The Lord Verulam reckons up the making of rich composts for the Earth, among the Magnalia Naturae, and most advantageous projects for the use of Man; which richness, if the modern Hypothesis of Chemists be right, consists in good proportions of salt Spirit, and Oil; which are principles generally deficient in barren places: Dry Earth, and cold crude water, or these two mixed together, every where abounding: I say, good proportions, because it is most certain, that no Vegetable will grow in too great abundance of Salt or Spirit, or other violently hot and corrosive matter: Sut and Pidgeons-dung abound much with volatile Salt; and I have this year, upon a cold moist Clay, seen excellent advantage to the Grass thereby, it being only strewed thin on the Grass before the Spring, but of the two, the Sut was best: upon a dry Sand I should not have expected the like improvement by its mixture, and in these composts themselves by reason of abundance of salt, without due proportions of other principles mixed, nothing will grow, for there is no fermentation without mixture of contrary parts or Elements; and all dunging is in order to fermentation: Hence Columella commends Pidgeon-dung, because, says he, Prae caeteris terram facit fermentare, the earth generally abounding in its own nature, with coldness & moisture, so that the richness in Salt or Spirit, temper; a Soil well, which is deficient in these principles, for those Vegetables that require in the ground so sprightful a Fermentation. For divers states of ground, and various Fermentations are required to different Plants, nor can any one Soil indifferently and equally agree with them all according to that of Virgil.  

Nec vero terrae ferre omnes omnia possunt,  
Fluminibus salices, crassisque paludibus alni  
Nascuntur; steriles saxosis montibus orni,  
Littora myrtetis laetissima: denique apertos  
Bacchus amat colles, Aquilonem & frigora taxi.  
Aspice & extremis domitum, cultoribus orbem  
Eoasque domos Arabum, pictosque Gelonos  
Divisae arboribus patriae: sola India nigrum  
Fert ebenum, solis est thurea virga sabaeis, etc.   

All Grounds can't all things bear: The Alder Tree  
Grows in thick Fens; with Sallows Brooks agree.  
Ash craggy Mountains: Shore's sweet Myrtle fills,  
And lastly, Bacchus loves the Sunny Hills:  
The Yew best prospers in the North, and cold,  
The conquered World's remotest Swains behold:  
See the Eastern Arabs, the Geloni, these  
Countries are all distinguished by their Trees:  
The blackest Ebony from India comes,  
And from Sabaea Aromatic Gums, etc.   
Saffron, Tulips, Anemones, and many other Plants which be propagated by bulbous or tuberous off-sets, require for their melioration, to be planted in a light Soil, that receives some mixture of fatty earth with it: some commend Cowdung rotten, above all other soil, to be mixed with other sandy earth for these Plants.  
Boggy Plants require, even when they be planted into Gardens, either a natural or artificial Bog, or to be placed near some water, by which there is great improvement to all sorts of Flags, and particularly, as I have observed to Calamus Aromaticus.  
The artificial Bog is made by digging a hole in any stiff Clay, and filling it with Earth taken from a Bog; or in want of such clay ground, there may be stiff Clay likewise brought in, and laid to line the hole or pit in the bottom or floor, and the sides likewise, so thick, that the moisture may not be able to get through: Of this sort, in our Physic Garden here in Oxford, we have one artficially made by Mr. Bobart, for the preservation of Boggy Plants, where being sometimes watered, they thrive as well as in their natural places.  
However 'tis true, that there is variety of usuage for Plants of different nature, yet for the generality of Plants, they are best improved by a fat, rich, deep, moist, and feeding Soil; and it is highly his interest that intends a flourishing Orchard, or Kitchin-garden, to improve his ground to the height; divers Flowers reap benefit by the same advantage; as particularly, Carnations and Auricula's; though for these, and some other Plants, the rotten Earth that is usually found in the Bodies of hollow Willow-Trees, is thought to be a soil more specifically proper, especially when mixed with other rich Soil throughly rotten.  
That wild Plants may be meliorated by transplantation into better Soil, and by being set at greater distances, is no more than what was before noted, and agrees with that of Virgil, Georg. 2.  

Sponte suâ quae se tollunt in luminis auras  
Infoecunda quidem, sed laeta & fortia surgunt  
Quip solo natura subest; tamen haec quoque si quis  
Inserat, aut scrobibus mandet mutata subactis  
Exuerint, Sylvestrem animum, cultuque frequenti,  
In quascunque voces arts, haud tarda sequentur.  
Nec non & sterilis quae stirpibus exit ab imis  
Hoc faciet vacuos si sit digesta per agros.  
Nunc altae frondes & Rami Matris opacant:  
Gescentique adimunt foetus, uruntque ferentem.   

Plants that advance themselves t'etherial Air  
Unfruitful be, but strong they prove, and fair;  
Because they draw their nature from the Soil:  
But these, if any, graft; or shall with toil  
Transplant, and then in cultured Furrows set  
Their wilder disposition they forget:  
By frequent culture, they not slowly will  
Answer thy labour, and obey thy skill.  
So they that spring from Poots, like profit yield,  
If you transplant them to the open Field,  
Which now the Boughs of th'Mother-plant do shade,  
And th'Off-sets stop her growth, and make her fade.   
The Seed of wild Cichory that grows every where in the Fields, being sowed in rich Garden-soyl, is so improved, that we esteem it ordinarily another Plant, and give it the name of Garden-Cichory, though indeed they are the same. But besides the goodness of the ground, and greatness of the distances, there may be some advantage to Field-Plants by changing the Seed, by which action the fermentation is supposed to be augmented in the Ground: Now these changes are either from one kind to another, as from Wheat and Barley, to Beans and Pease, which is the usual Husbandry of common Fields, or in the same Seed: Of the former way, Virgil gives this Precept.  
— ibi flava seres mutato sidere farra,  
Vnde prius laetum siliqua quassante legumen,  
Aut tenues faetus Viciae, tristisque Lupini  
Sustuleris fragiles calamos, sylvamque sonantem.  
Georg. 1. By Mr. Ogilby thus rendered.  
— There changing Seasons thou shalt Barley sow  
Where pleafant Pulse with dangling Cod did grow,  
Where brittle stalks of bitter Lupins stood,  
Or slender Vetches in a murmuring Wood  
Of changing the Seed of the same kind, besides Field Corn, which is generally changed every third Season at the farthest, examples may be had in Carnations and Gillyflowers, the Seed of which, being taken from the best Flowers, are much meliorated by alternation and change of Ground; and it is like this Experiment may hold in the seeds of other Flowers.  
Another Experiment, is the exossation of Fruit, or causing it to grew without stones or core, for which effect, the grafting of the upper end of the Cyon downwards, hath been asserted to be a certain way: That the Cyon so grafted will grow, I have experience; but whether in time they will produce the forementioned effect, I greatly doubt: And if they should, I much mistrust their expectations would not be answered, that intended melioration thereby: For the Fruit, certainly by the loss of the natural Seed, would be very much dispirited, and lose the generosity and nobleness of its nature, as Animals do, and as Vegetables sometimes; as particularly I have observed in Barberries, for I have seen a Tree that bore every year on most Bunches two sorts of Barberries, the one full, and of a deep red; the other of a pale colour, and thin substance, and enquiring into the cause, I found the former to have Stones in them, and the latter destitute, which were, as I supposed, thereby emasculated.   

N. 9 The conclusion of the Treatise, with one or two choice observations of the wise and good Providence of God, which may be seen in the admirable make of Vegetables, and fitness to their ends, which are not generally taken notice of, but are, with many more, overseen by men busy in the affairs of the world.  
It was the sin of the Heathen that they did not rise in their minds from the contemplation of the beauty of the creatures, to consider how such lineaments could be made, and to glorify thereby the wisdom of the Maker. The particulars are infinite, that ordinarily to a man exercised in things and thoughts, suggest themselves to avouch Providence, and confute the vanity of the old Epicureans in the simplest of their Tenets concerning the framing of this world, of things by a casual concurrence of small motes intricated in their motion, by mere chance into such beautiful bodies.  
It is no unusual Theme to treat of the admirable handsomeness and beauty in the composure of divers Vegetables, and to show how Nature doth 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in them, and  out such variety of elegant figures, that every plant shall seem to have more of Mathematical art, than the Knot wherein it is set: And 'tis generally noted, that God's Providence is exceeding good in appointing Nature, and making it her end to continue some individual is of every Species for the preservation of the kind. That likewise the same Providence has approved to its self a most excellent wisdom in the choice of most certain means, for the attainment of this end, it has been mine, and may be an easy consideration to any other.  
For what other end, thought I, are there so many coats, and such cotton vestment to seeds, but to defend their tenderness? Why such hard stones to other, but to hinder their premature springing, whereby the coldness of Winter would kill (as in Aprecots, Peaches, Nectarines, etc.) their tender seedlings? Why is the ground in Woods covered with Moss, but that Nature intended it as a preservation to seeds fallen upon the Turf in the violence of Winter Frosts? Why has Nature beset shrubs with prickles, but to defend the tender buds in which the hope of future growth is reposed from the browsing of cattles in the Winter? and that this was the end of Providence in it may be conjectured from hence, because those shrubs which are not all over thorny, have a guard of Thorns directly upon the bud & not else where, as if singularly intended for its security. So 'tis seen in the Gooseberry, Hawthorne, Barbary, Locust, all Roses wild and cultivated that are not all over thorny, so that the thorns are not useless excrescencies as some have supposed, but as profitable as boughs or leaves.  
Why have those plants that bear no seed with us, as Poplar and Willow, in every bough of any bigness, a propensity of sending forth Roots, by the occasion of which, each branch is made an entire tree or plant? or if that faculty be wanting, why then is there so great disposition and forwardness to propagate themelves by off-sets, as in the Elm, poplars etc. And where there can be no off-sets, as in Mushrooms, wherefore else has Nature made the plants propagable by the smallest of their shreds and inconsiderable parts? Why else is the Indian Fig, that hath no stalk, propagable by its leaf alone?  
Why have plants such an eagerness to flower and seed, and such an impatience of being disappointed? if you pull off the bud of the Rose it will spring again, and not only the Rose, but most other fruits and flowers have the same desire to produce their seeds, and have given occasion to Artists to make hence Rules of Retardation.  
Why do the Seeds stick close to the Pedal by which they are joined to the stock until they are mature and fit for propagation, and then fall off in the most fit season for due preparation to future growth?  
Why do those plants that usually die every year yet if they are disappointed of running to seed, continue to survive many years, even so long till they are permitted to run up to leave seed behind them? But that they are appointed by the universal Law of Nature, not to desert their order, till they have produced others after their own kind.  
Lastly, Why are many Seeds at their first ripening so exactly fledged with wings, but that by the wind, they may be carried to such places as may be fit wombs to receive and feed them, until they attain from the being of seeds the measure and stature of perfect plants.  
Another Specimen of the Wisdom of the God of Nature, may be seen in the regular situation of Branches, and the orderly eruption of Buds, upon every Vegetable; for, notwithstanding the report of my Lord Bacon, Nat. Hist. Cent. 6. Observ. 588. That Trees and Herbs in the growing forth of their Boughs and Branches, are not figured, and keep no order, but that when they make an eruption, they break forth casually, where they find best way in their Bark and Rinde: I find myself necessitated to refer that to an exceeding Wisdom, which his Lordship refers to chance and casualty: For if I observe aright both Buds and Leaves, and all eruptions, stand so on every Vegetable, as to serve most fitly for most necessary ends.  
As to Leaves, the Learned Doctor Brown hath made the Quincunx famous, which may with as great aptness be applied, and, I think, more universally to the situation of Buds, or Germens.   three arrangements of dots signifying different arrangements of leaves  three more arrangements of dots signifying different arrangements of leaves 
The most thick sort of Quincunx hath its examples rather in Leaves than Buds, for after this manner stand the Leaves upon most Martagons and Lilies, divers Spurges, and Sedums, on which it is most visible, when the Plants run up to Seed. Trickmadam, Spurge-Laurel, Marsh-mallows, when the stock is exceeding rank and big, for otherwise it is sufficed with the regulations of the third Figure: The leaves of Fir-tree, Pinetree, etc.  
The second, or obliqne and single Quincunx, may for the most part be observed, both in the Buds and Leaves that arise from Trees, and such other Plants whose Stalks are round; as in the Oak, Elm, Hasel, Apples, Plums, Cherries, Pears, Willows, Sallows, Osiers, Black-thorn, White-thorn, Goosberries, Currants, Roses, Fenel, Cichory, Thistles of most sorts, Docks, But-docks, Sothernwood, Rue, Seseli-Aethiopicum, Sweet-maudlin, Common-mercury, Dulcamara.  
The third direct and oblong Quincunx is most observed in Plants of a square stalk, as Water-Betony, Fig-wort, Lavender, Mints, St. Johns-Wort, Clowns-All-heal, Rhus-Myrtifolium, Mother-wort, Nep, Colus-Jovis.  
Yet 'tis not unfrequently seen on other Stalks also, as the Sycamore, Elder, Maple, Dogtree, Ash, Hyssop, Nettles, Hemp, Willow-weeds, Tree-Spurge, French-Mercury, Scammony of Montpelier.  
And it is to be observed, that in divers of those Plants whose Stalks are set with Joints, and those Joints with a beautiful Circle of Leaves, proper to each Plant, contrary to the Quincuncial situation, the Germens, notwithstanding, are found to follow the order of this lost mentioned Quincunx, as may be seen in Madder, Goosgrass, Ladies-Bed-straw.  
Or if that order be left, yet it is not left to the disadvantage of the Plant, but generally it hath in exchange some other handsome and proper method of Leaves and Buds. Thus Linaria-Quadrifolia, hath on each joint three, four, five or six opposite Leaves, & under each Leaf a German, which arise to Branches, uniformly set upon the same round Stalk.  
And as to the particular make and frame of those Plants, which in the standing of their Leaves cannot be said to follow the order of any Quincunx, yet they, instead of those elegant Tessellations, are beautified otherwise in their site with as great curiosity. I cannot think of a Plant, according to the ordinary estimation of men, that is more contemptible than that which grows ordinarily in Bogs, or miry Ditches, and is called Great-Horse-tail; yet if any man please to disartuate the whole, and take particular view both of the parts and conjuncture, they will find the frame exquisite enough to deserve a better esteem; for both Stalks and Leaves are made up of divers pieces, framed, as it were, in joint work; all which pieces bear exact proportion each to other; and each receives other by indented terminations, which form very beautiful Coronets on the pieces so received; then at a convenient distance, above each of these Coronets, there ariseth a very beautiful Circle of Leaves, and these very Leaves are made up of hollow pieces articulately, and proportionably jointed, in imitation of the elegancy of the joints of the Stalk itself.  
And generally the Leaves that stand not according to the Quincunx, either stand in joints, in the fashion of the Burgonion Cross, as on Cross-wort; or in a Circle, as on most sorts of Madder, Ladys-bedstraws, Woodroofs; or in some other profitable, fit and beautiful positure: And though in these creeping and entangled Plants, irregularities are not unfrequently seen, yet even in these irregularities themselves, there often seems to be a greater curiousness and most proper order; as particularly, Madder is generally tetragonal, and notwithstanding its circular border of Leaves, usually send; forth Buds, according to the manner of Mints, and other Plants of a foursquare Stalk: This I have sometimes seen in many of its Branches to vary and turn hexagonal, or to have a stalk with fix ribs, upon which declension the order of the Germens was thus most fitly altered; upon each rib or angle there was always one leaf, and upon every other rib, a germane under the leaf; which I found so placed, that no one rib did bear the Bud in the two succeeding joints; so that if in the first joint, the three Buds stood on the first, the third, and the fifth ribs, then in the second joint, the Buds stood on the second, the fourth, and the sixth, and so interchangeably to the very top.  
Now by these situations of the Buds, according to these Observations, it always is so found necessarily to be, that if two Buds stand on the same joint, as in the third Quincunx; those that stand on the same height, keep always the contrary sides; and further, if the two lowermost stand North and South, the two next immediately above them stand East and West. And in the second, or obliqne and single Quincunx, when the Buds stand not two at the same height, the second stands on the opposite side to the first, and the fourth to the third; and then likewise, if the first and second stand East and West, the two next above them stand North and South.  
I may give notice that to find these methods, and to expose them to the eye, a profitable way may be to clip off the stalks of the leaves near the Branch, especially in the first and most thick sort of Quincunx; in the second more single Quincunx, it may not be amiss to slit the Bark and take it off, for it being laid plain and flat, the Quincuncial order will the better appear; the third sort is visible to the eye, as the Plant grows.  
Care also must be had, that observation be made on such Plants whose stalks are not twisted, for the twisting of it brings the Leaves and Germens out of order: There may besides these, some other methods appear not here mentioned, but even in them, he that pleases to consider them, I doubt not, will find constancy for the most part to their rule; or if they have no rule, there may likewise a reason be found why it was good they should be without.  
But it is most certain, that these are the general methods, and these contrivances of the eruption of Buds, serve for divers excellent ends exceeding fitly, and so are arguments, (how poor and inconsiderable soever these Observations may seem) that they came not out thus by the lucky justlings and stumbling of blind chance, but by the Providence of a most Powerful, Skilful, and Wise Artist and Author. For they serve first to procure a fit and proportionable shade for the Stalk and Fruit; neither of which in their tenderness, can endure the scorching Sunbeams, for by keeping this method and order, they communicate their shade to all parts of the Tree or Plant; whereas, should they break out in a disorderly fashion, some parts of the Plant, and some Fruit would be exposed to all weather, where no Buds or Leaves come forth; other parts would be too much shadowed by the two thick eruption of Buds. This order likewise sets out the Boughs and Branches of each Tree into such positions, that one may not easily fret upon another, or gall its neighbour, but grow in a distinct room, every Branch having his proportionable allowance in that circumference which the whole Tree takes up, whereby it may, without any impediment to others, grow to a convenient bigness; otherwise came many Buds out together without method, they could never arrive at any bigness in their future growth, nor attain to good Fruit, or pleasant Leaves and Flowers, but would run out into such thick Crows-Nests, as I have observed sometimes to happen in Plum-Trees by an error or mischance of nature, in the parturition or bringing forth of the Germens. The observation likewise of these methods must needs be of use to the Equilibration and uprightness of Trees, for should all the Boughs break out in one place, or on one side, the heaviness of that side or part, would bend down the body into a crookedness, and deprive it of that uprightness and straitness, which is the most useful site of most Plants; and those that are without these regulations, are generally such as are made to grow upon and twist about other things, and not to bear up themselves, as Bind-weeds, and the like.  
And now I am come thus far, there comes into my mind that excellent Animadversion which the most wise King made, when he had considered the several Purposes, Travels, Businesses, Changes and Overtures, which happen to us poor men while we are under Heaven, in their several Seasons; as particularly, in the days of our Birth, and the days of our Death, in the days of our Planting or being Planted, and those of our Plucking, or being Plucked up: When Men get and Increase their Estates, and when they Lose, grow Bankrupt and are undone; in the days of their Jollities, Dance, Lovings, Woo and Embrace; as likewise in those cloudy and dull Seasons, when satiety of Enjoyment, indisposition of Body, or other unhappy accidents, has begot Peivishness and Loathing; and when Tears and Mourning contristate all their glory and beauty: Concerning the seasonableness and fitness of all the Estates of men, their conditions, accidents and disasters in their several times, this is his observation, Eccl. 3. That he had seen the travel which God had given the Sons of men to be exercised therewith, and found, that God by his providence had made every one of the things made, beautiful in its time: Moreover, that he had set the age in the middle of them, yet so, that no man of them can find out the work that God maketh from the beginning to the end.  
I shall not Apologise for translating 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 the age or 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 〈◊〉 in the middle of them, because I know the words, and methinks the sense and context bear it best, but shall beg leave by a parallelism to apply it to the present matter; the placing, not the timing of things, and to express my thoughts thus: That God has made every thing beautiful in its place, order and situation, and particularly every part of every Vegetable, and has also sot the world so curiously wrought and modelled, in the middle of us, yet so, that by reason of our various affairs and businesses, and other fancies, no man can find out the work that God hath made from the beginning to the end.  
Lastly, I must beg leave to make the same conclusion and Appendix to the Observation, that the King has there opposed to his, (viz.) That the true and only use that can be made of those elegancies and beauties which in every aspect suggest themselves unto us, is no other, but that we Rejoice in them and in their Maker, and do good in this life. I mean, that we puzzle not ourselves overmuch, nor discruciate our Spirits to resolve what are the causes, and what the manner of causation of the apparent effects of Gods great power, any further than as our labour may serve for those excellent and firmly together interwoven ends of rejoicing and doing good, and the rather, because of the experiment which this most wise Prince, who was helped by the great riches of his then puissant Kingdom, (and so not impeded by those wants that usually discomfit private persons in such inquiries) made himself and published concerning his own fearch, Eccl. 1. That he gave his heart to seek and search out by Wisdom concerning all things that are done under Heaven, and found this to be a sore travel, that God had given the Sons of men to be exercised therewith, And further, That with much wisdom there is much vexation, and he that increaseth knowledge, increaseth sorrow.    
FINIS.   

A Catalogue of some Books Printed for, and sold by Tho: Robinson.  

A Treatise of Fruit-Trees, showing the manner of Grafting, setting, pruning, and ordering them in all respects, by Ramires: Austin, in 4ᵒ  
The spiritual use of an Orchard or Garden of Fruit trees, set forth in divers similitudes, according to Scripture and experience, by R. Austin 4ᵒ  
Observations on some part of Sir Francis Bacon's Natural History, as it concerns Fruit-trees, Fruits and Flowers, by Ra. Austin. in 4ᵒ  
An Answer to Mr. Hoards Book, entitled, God's love to mankind, by W. Twiss D. D. in Folio.   

Books written by Dr. Owen.  
THe Doctrine of the Saints Perseverance examined and confirmed, in Folio.  
Socinianism examined, in the confutation of Biddle's, and the Racovian Catech. in 4ᵒ  
A Review of the Annotations of H. Grotius, in reference to the Doctrine of the Deity, and satisfaction of Christ, in Answer to D. Hamraond, in 4ᵒ  
Of the mortification of sin in Believers, in 8ᵒ  
Of Temptation. in 8ᵒ  
Of the Divine original Authority, self evidencing light and power of the Script. in 8ᵒ  
Of Schism, in reference to the present differences in Religion. in 8ᵒ  
A Review of the true nature of Schism, in Answer to Mr. Cawdrey, in 8ᵒ  
A Defence of Mr. Jo: Cotton, and a Reply to Mr. Cawdrey about; the nature of Schism. in 8ᵒ  
Diatriba de Justitia di vina. in 8ᵒ   

Books written by Dr. Wallis.  
MAthesis Vniversalis, sive Arithmeticum opu●s integrum. in 4ᵒ  
Adversus Meibomii, de proportionibus. 4ᵒ  
De Angulo Contactus & semicirculus. 4ᵒ  
De Sectionibus Corticis Tractatus. 4ᵒ  
Arithmetica Infiniterum. 4ᵒ  
Eclipseos Soluris observatio. 4ᵒ  
Commercium Epistolicum de questionibus quibusdam Mathematicis nuper habitum. 4ᵒ  
Mens sobria serio commendata, Conciolat: & Expositio Epistolum ad Titae. 8ᵒ  
Grammatica Linguae Anglicanae. 8ᵒ  
Due Correction for M. Hobbs. 8ᵒ  
Hobbiani Functi dispuncrio. 8ᵒ   

Books written by Dr. Zouch.  
CAses and questions resolved in the Civil Law. 8ᵒ  
Juris & Judicii Fecialis, sive Juris inter Gentes. 4ᵒ  
Specimen Questionum Juris Civilis cum designatione Authorum a quibus in utramque partem disruntur. 4ᵒ  
De Legati delinquentis Judice competente dissertatio 12ᵒ  
Eruditionis Ingenuae specimina, scil. Artium Logicae, Dialect: Rhetor: & Moralis Philosoph: 12ᵒ  
Questionum Juris Civilis Centuria. Non minus ad Legum Genoralium Cegnitionem, quam ad studiosum Exercitationem, accommoda, in 12ᵒ newly published.   

HYpothesis de Officiis secundum humanae rationis dictata seu Naturae Jus, unde Casus omnes Conscientiae quatenus notiones à Natura suppetunt dijudicari possint. Ethnicorum simul & Jureperitorum consensus estenditur, Principia & Rationes Hobbesii Malmes: ad Ethicam & Politicam spectantes. in examen veniunt. Aut. R. Sharrock. 8  
COnciones Octo ad Academicos Oxon: Latinè habitae. Epistolarum Decas, Authore Hen: Wilkinson. S. Th. D 8º  
Rob: Baronii, Philos: Theologiae Ancillans. 12ᵒ  
Rob: Baronii, Metaphysica Generalis & special: omniaead usum Theologiae accomodata 12ᵒ Latium & Lycium, Graeca cum latinis, sive Gram: Artis in utraque lingua lucidissima, Aut: Ro: Wickens. 8ᵒ  
Manuductio ad Theol: Polemicam. Aut: Jo: Prideaux, S. Th. D. 8ᵒ  
Exercitatio Theolog. de Insipientiâ rationis humanae, Gratiâ Christi destitutae, in rebus fidei-Aut. R. Cross, Col. Linc. 4ᵒ  
Fur pro Tribunali, Examen Dialog: cui inscibitur Fur Praedestinatus. Auth: Geo: Kendal, S. Th. D. 8ᵒ  
Miscellania, sive Meditat: & orationes, etc. Auth: Ed: Ellis, 12ᵒ  
Homerus ‛ ΕΒΡΑΙ ' ΖΩΝ: sive Comparation Homeri cum Scriptoribus Sacres quoad normam loquendi. Auth: Zach: Bogan. 8ᵒ  
Exercitationes a'iquot Metaphysicae. per Tho: Barlow 4ᵒ  
A complete Concordance of the English Bible, by Rob: Wickens. 8ᵒ  
Immortality of humane Souls asserted, in answer to a Tract, entitled, Man's mortality. 4ᵒ  
The want of Church Government, no warrant for a total omission of the Lords Supper, by Hen: jean's. 8ᵒ  
A Mixture of Scholastical and Practical Divinity, by Hen: Jeanes. 4ᵒ   
FINIS.