F { .^ f -^ ^•1 )^^Tk^ V ;x"""' <^'- .^'7 Glass F ?' *?- ^ Book^ .G:^-^ -^^ GEOGRAPHY OF ALABAMA. By J^^K'ikirCuRRY, LL. D., General Manager of the Peahnd;/ Education Fiiiiil, etc., Wasliinyton, D. C. PHYSICAL FEATURES. Position and Extent. In what part of the United States is Ala- Ijama ? Between what degrees of longitude does it lie ; between what degrees of latitude ? By what states is it bordered ? With the scale of miles, find its extreme leugth from north to south ; find approximately its average breadth. The area of Alabama is 52,250 square miles, 710 of which are water surface. Surface. Neither as to geology, climate, pvoductions, nor as to surface oau the state be divided into well-(li^fini>(l parts. Different regions are not separated by sharply drawn lines, but merge into one another, often by imper- ceptible gradations. As each shades into the other, some- times tlie same sections of hind will be agricnltnral, mineral, and timber-pro- ducing. The northern jiart of tlie state, which embraces a por- tion of the Cumberland pla- teau and ridges to the east, is hilly and uneven, although its elevations do not exceed 2000 feet above the sea level. The Cumberland plateau consists of a broad tal)le- laud, and is bordered on the east by a series of long, straight, and parallel ridges, the tirst being the Raccoon and Sand mountains. Still farther east are Lookout i\Ionntain and a number of other ridges. Tlie middle section consists of a region of footldlls ex- tending into the rolling prairies, alluvial valleys, and i>ine barrens. Tlie central part is very fertile and is known as the " Black Belt." The falls, or rapids, in the streams of this section afford the best water power in the state. The southern part of the state is a low plain, sloping gradually to the Gulf of Mexico, and is nowhere more tlian -iOO feet above the sea level. Drainage. In extent and vahie the watei' lines are hardly surpassed by those of any state, and they drain every section. Besides the navigal)le rivers, giving an inland .steam navigation of over 2000 miles, other streams penetrate every county and neai-ly every iieighl)orhood. There are fonr i)rinci[)al drainage l)asins in Alabama: tliose of (1) the Mobile River and its branches, the Ala- bama and Tomliigljee; (2) the Tenness(^e; (:>) thi' Chatta- hoochee; (4) the Conecuh and Choctawhatehee. Copyright, ISOS, hy Americari Book Company. View of Mobile Bay. Mobile River is formed by the union of the Alabama and Tond)ig1iee, which themselves have important tribu- taries; and, although the Mobile is but 44 miles long, its deep, broad channels and Iwrdei-ing bayous carry the draiuagi^ of almost three fottrths of the state to Mobile Bay. Moljile Bay is the deepest roadstead and one of the best harbors on the Gulf coast. It is 30 miles long, and has an average width of from 12 to 20 miles. A ship channel from the lower Ijay has been excavated, giving a depth of more than 20 feet. The largest vessels can enter the roadstead 27 miles below Mobile, and vessels of heavy draught can reach the city wharfs. The Alabama River is formed by the junction of the Coosa and the Talla- poosa, and flows through or liorders eight of the best planting counties, besides being accessible, by the aid of short railway lines, to the mineral regions. It is navi- gable throughout the year. The Cahaba is another im- portant tributary of the Alabama, cutting its way through the deposits of coal and iron in Shelby and Bibb counties. At Centerville, on this tributary, at Wetumpka, on the Coosa, and at Talla.s- see, on the historic Tallapoosa, these streams leave the elevated foothill region by a series of cascades, which in- territpt navigation, but afford excellent water powers. The Coosa again becomes navigable between Greensport and Rome, Ga. The tirst steamboat on these waters was launched at Greensport in 1845. The Federal government is clearing away the natural hindrances. The Tombigbee River flows in Alabama for 319 miles of its course. Within the state it is navigable. Its most important tributaries are the Black Warrior and Sipsey rivers. The Black Warrior is navigable to Tuscaloosa. The locks above being completed, water communication has been oi)ened l)etween the coal fields and tide water, and barges, laden with coal from the Warrior and its tributaries, can be floated to the Gulf. The Tennessee River, in Tennessee, occupies a valley east of the ridge of Raccoon Mountain : Intt, near Chat- tanooga, it breaks through a valley west of this ridge, which it follows to Guntersville, where it turns westward and cuts through the Cumberland plateau, emerging therefrom, after a tortuous course, just above Florence, in a series of ALABAMA. rapids called IMuyclt' Slioal.s. Tliese fonueiiy obstructed navigation, but have been so improved by locks and canals that the Tennessee is now navigable throughout its length. The Chattalioocliee River forms, with its western hank, about half the eastern boundary of the state. It is navigable to Columbus. Ga. The Conecuh and I'hoetawhatehee rivers, with tlu-u- tributaries, are not navigable by vessels, but are used by lunibemien for floating logs from the pineries. Soil. The soils are produced by the decay of the sur- face rock, and \-ary in fertility from the thinnest sandy land to the lichest alluvial. On the mountains they are sandy and not of remarkable fertility; in the "coves" and mountain valleys, a rich, calcareous soil predominates. The prairies have a fine black soil of great de^jth and fertility. The southern part of the state has a more sandy soil. It is claimed that a wall nught be Imilt around Alaljama, "leaving open only her seaports for foreign exports, and the state could live well on her native products and ujanu- faetures, and become a mine of wealth from the shipment abroad of her agricultural, mineral, and manufactured products." Climate. There are no exti'emes of heat and cold, and few tmfavorable hygienic comlitions, and the climate is generally healthful and pleasant. The influence of the mountains, cool breezes from the Gulf, resinous atmos- phere, and streams of purest water combine to make residence and labor possilile and con- venient during every month of the year. The mean annual tem- perature is about Gl°, the southern sections and the valleys being warmer than the highlands. The rain- fail decreases north and east of Mobile : the annual average for the state is about 52 inches. In north, central, and south Alabama are spi-ings of medicinal value, which have become popular health resorts. They contain iron, sulphur, magnesia, alum, and other elements. The pine sections have become abodes of health, during the autumn and winter months, for invalids forced to seek a climate more congenial than their own. Talladega, Shelby, Blount, Clarke, Baldwin, Washington, and other counties attract many visitors by their health-giving waters and tiieir pictiu-esque scenery. RESOURCES AND INDUSTRIES. For better nnderstandiug, the state may be regarded as divided into four great belts, namely, Cereal, Mineral, Agri- cultural, and Timber. The Cereal belt embraces the vall(>y of the Teimessee and its tributaries. The average width is about thirty miles. Protected by mountain ranges on the north and on the south, well watered Ijy bold springs and clear streams, with fertile soil and an intelhgent population, the valley has be- come famous for its beauty and its many natural advan- tages. Cotton is cultivated, but corn, wheat, rye, oats, barley, and potatoes are the chief crops. Stock-raising has now become an important industry. Pears, apples, peaches, grapes, and garden products are abundant. The Mineral belt comprises one third of the state, and produces in greater or less quantities the chief minerals of trade and industry, silver excepted. Side by side and also in separate localities lie immense deposits of coal, iron, and limestone. The principal coal fields are the Warrior, -with Cotton Warehouse, Annlston Cotton Mills. an area of 7810 square miles, the Cahaba, of over 400 square miles and of immense thickness, and the Coosa, of over 400 square miles. The coal is bituminous. It is free from sulphur. It is exported to Cuba, Mexico, South America, and other countries. Its clieiii)ne.ss and quality make Alal)ama rank high as a coal-producing state. The an- nual output aggregates 6,000,000 tons. Alabama is fourth among the states in coal production. Both brown and red hematite iron ore are found in immense quantities in the ridges east of Sand Mountain. The most valuable outcroppings are found in St. Clair, Slielliy, Jefferson, and Tuscaloosa counties, but the ore is widely diffused in other localities. Its proximity to coal and limestone makes its manufacture easier and cheaper than in some other mineral regions. In 1896 the state was third in the production of pig iron. Among the other minerals are marble, marl, and, in limited quantities, gold, copper, lead, graphite, and also excellent building stone and claj's. The Agricultural belt is less definable than any other, but the section where cotton is predominant lies south of the Mineral belt, and extends across the middle counties, cover- ing one fourth of the entire area of the state. The soil is mostly of a dark color, and is of great fertility. TJie surface is generally rolling prairie. All the principal rivers, except ALABAMA. iiig in value and iniportanee. Proximity to the raw ma- terial, a mild climate, cheap fuel and food, and lonj^a-r hours of labor, give many advantages in manufacturing. Commerce. Cotton, coal, and iron are the leading con- tributions of the state to the world's commerce. Railway and river transportation furnish facilities for outgoing and incoming trade. There are about 3700 miles of railroad in the state. A fleet of steamei-s earries tlie trade between Mobile and Liverpool and Bremen ; steamers operate between Mobile and Mexican and Central American ports; and other lines connect Mobile with points in Florida and in the tropical fruit lielt. In 1897 0.57 vessels, of increased capacity made possible by the deepening of =1 the channel, entered and cleared at ! Mobile, with $848,129 iu value of im])orts, and with exjiorts which were valued at $10,131,189. Blast Furnace, Birmingham. the Tennessee, flow through this Section, furnishing ready and cheap transportation to the Gulf. Alabanui is the fourth in rank as a cotton- producing state. After cot- ton, corn is the favorite crop, and wheat, oats, rye, barley, potatoes, turnips, onions, and peas are cultivated on neaily every farm. Pipe Works, Anniston Apples, pears, jdums, peaches, Almost every kind of veget^ible and fniit grown in the United States finds here congenial soil and climate ehen-ies, berries of all kinds, melons, figs, etc., grow abundantly. Fruit culture has been far more remunerative than fields of cotton. On the mountain sides are excellent jiasture facilities, and the pine districts afford lusiuiant grasses on which sheep and goats are sustained almost throughout the year. Stock-raising and wool-gi"owing arc becoming profitable imlustrics. Several large sheep ranches are maintained, with herds numbering from HOOO to 5000 head ; and in Escambia county 30,000 sheep are supported upon the nutritious native herbage. The Timber belt lies south of the Agricultural, and abounds in forests, which cover hundreds of thoustinds of acres. The long-leafed pine, the cypress, juiuper, jind pop- lar, and other woods sustain hundreds of mills and a large lumljer trade, home and foreign. Tlie turpentine business has much increased. In this and the other belts there are a great variety and abundance of other trees, such as the oak, hickory, walnut, cherry, beech, locust, cedar, elm, mai)le, sliort-leafed pine, and magnolia. Manufacturing is rapidly becoming an important in- dustry and a source of increasing prosperity. The reducing and rolling of iron is the largest manufacturing inter(>st. carried on cliielly in Jefferson, Bibb, .Slielby, St. Clair, Tal- ladega, Calhoun, Cherokee, and Etowah counties. The sawing of lumber, the manufacturing of cotton goods and furniture, the grinding of grain, the iiroduction of cotton- seed oil — these and other kinds of manufacture are grow- HISTORY. The Indian inhabitants of Ala- Ijama belonged to three great fam- ilies : the Mobilians, including the Choctaws in the southwest, the < "liickasjiws iu the northwest, and tiie Muskogees or Creeks, who roamed over the central part of the state ; the Cherokees, living among the mountains in the north- east : and the Tensas Indians, who occupied tiie banks of the Mobile River and its bayous. The first white men to enter this region were De Soto and his followers, who, in 1.5-10, crossed the country from the Savannah to the Mississippi River. AN'ith these men of war were scions of the noblest families of Spain, who came in quest of gold and glory. The exact route of their tortuous march through Georgia, Alabama, and Mis- sissij)pi ciinnot l)e traced with any accuracy. Tile first settlement was made by the French under Bienville, at the mouth of Dog Kiver, on Mobile Bay. in View of Birmingham. ALABAMA. 1702. In 1711 the colony was moved to the site of Mobile. By the treaty of Foutainebleau, in 17(30, tliis region came into possession of the English. At the close of our Revolu- tion Englauel ceded to the United States tlie region north of 31° north latitude, and to Spain the region south of that parallel. The latter was not attached to the United States until 180,3. Mississippi territory was organized in 1798, and enlarged in 1802 so as to embrace the present states of Mississippi and Alabama north of 31° north latitude. In 1817 this terri- tory was divided, the eastern part becoming Alaljama ter- ritory. Alabama was admitted to the Union as a state with its present boundaries December 14, 1819, a convention of 45 delegates from 15 counties having met in Huntsville and framed a constitution in the month of July preceding. Early in January, 1861, Alabama passed an ordinance of secession, and she aided in establishing the government of the Confederate States. Montgomery was the fii-st capital of tlie Confederacy, and its presi- dent was inaugurated there. During the war Alabama sup|)lied 122,000 troops to the Confederate army. The battles of Spanish Fort, Fort Blakely, Fort Morgan, Selma, Tus- caloosa, and the capture of Colonel Straight (in Cherokee county) with 1700 men, all occurred within the territory of this state. St. Stephens, where the first and last territorial legislatui-es met, Huntsville, Cahaba, and Tusca- loosa, have each in turn been the capital of Alabama, but ever since 1846 Jloutgomery has been the seat of the state government. According to the census of 1890, Alabama contained a population of 1,513,017, of which nearly one half was of African descent. Less than one per cent of tlie people were foreign-born. Tln'ee fourths of the Avorking i^opulation are engaged in agriculture. Government. The legislative power is vested in a general as.seiidjly, composed of a senate and a house of representatives. The executive power is vested in a governor, secretary of state, treasurer, auditor, attorney-general, and sui)erintend- ent of education, all elected by the people for two years. The judicial power is vested in a supreme court, circuit, chancery, coitnty, and probate courts. There are also courts of county commissioners, municipal courts, and justices of the peace in all the precincts. The state is divided into Gli counties, which are subdiN-ided into elec- tion precincts. The local government is in the hands of appropriate ofiicers, chosen by popular vote. Education. The state is divided into school districts, each of them liaving one or more public schools, where all children in the district Ijetween the ages of 7 and 21 years may obtain an education free of cost. Higher education may be obtained at the T'niversity of state Capitol, Montgomery. Alabama at Tuscaloosa. It was opened in 1831, and pro- vides for students both academic and professional courses. The Agricultitral and Mechanical College, or the Alabama Polytechnic Institute, with many laboratories and a large experiment farm, is located at Auburn. The Girls' Indus- trial School is at Montevallo. These are all for white students, and give free tuition at the expense of the state. State normal schools are located at Florence, Troy, .Jacksonville, and Livingston for white teachers, and at Montgomery and Huuts\ille for colored teachers. Besides these, there are excellent colleges and schools for both sexes and both races at various places in the state. Among them are the Normal and Industrial Institute at Tuskegee ; Talladega College ; Greensboro University ; Judson Female Institute, chartered in 1839 ; JIarion Female Seminary ; Howard, Lafayette, Lineville, Spiing- hill, Athens, East Lake, Union, and Isbell colleges ; the Synodical Insti- tute ; Central Female Institute ; Alabama Conference Female Institute ; and numerous academies. CITIES AND TOWNS. Mobile, the county seat of Mobile county, is the largest city and the connnercial metropolis of Alabama. Mobile is one of the largest cotton- shipping ports of the United States, having sis miles of improved river frontage. Naval stores, timber, and early fruits and vegetables are other important articles of export, while coffee and tropical fruits are the i)rin- cipal articles of import. Mobile has extensive manufac- tures of lumber, foundi-y and ma- chine-shop products, etc. It has a fine system of public schools and several higher institutions of learn- ing. It is also well supplied with libraries, churches, charitable insti- tutions, and public buildings. Biniii)/f/]i((iii, the county seat of Jefferson county, is the center of the mineral region of the state, and the location of large iron, steel, and smelting works, which give employment to many thousand workmen. Its rapid growth and the de- velopment of its manufacturing industries have been among the most i-emarkable incidents in the history of the state. Bii-mingham is also the most important conmiercial and railroad center in Alabama. The city has excellent schools, and is the seat of Howard and East Lake colleges. Moiifr/onier!/, the county seat of Montgomery county, is the state capital. The capitol building has a commanding situation overlooking the city and surrounding country. The city is well laid out, beautifully ornamented, and has good schools. Montgomery has considerable manufac- tures, and is an important cotton market and trade center. Amiisto)!, in Calhoun county, is in the midst of a fine agricidtural and mineral region. Anniston is a city of re- cent and remarkable growth. It has extensive manitfac- turing establishments of iron, cotton, and other products. It has good schools. 6 ALABAMA. IluntsviUe, the county scat of Matlisou county, one of the oldest places in tlic state, is in tlie grazing and fanning region of the Tennessee valley. Lumbering is an impor- tant industry, and there ai-e manufactures of cotton goods, furniture, etc. Tlie educational advan- tages of Huntsville are superior. iSV//»((,thecounty seat of Dallas county, is situated in a fine agricul- tural section, and commands a large trade in cotton and general merchan- dise. It has excel- lent railroad facili- ties and extensive manufactories, in- cluding railroad shoi)s and cotton mills. The city has excellent schools. Bessemfr, in Jefferson county, has lar-jfe furnaces, rolling mills, an sudden or severe weather changes common. The prevailing direction of the wind is south to southeast, and the rainfall is abundant, though nowhere excessive. The rains are well distributed through the year, being somewhat more abundant during the growing season, and for the year amount to from 60 to 75 inches. They are chiefly cyclonic in character. ECONOMIC PRODUCTS. Minerals. Sulplmr is obtained in Calcasieu parish, and is known to exist there in great quantities. Rock salt is mined in Ilieria parish, and has been found at Orange Island in that parish in a continuous deposit over 1800 feet thick. Some fairly good sandstone is quarried in Vernon parish, and crystalline limestone in AVinn parish; but these areas are small and relatively of little impor- tance. Clays suitable for building and paving lirick are found, and these constitute the chief mineral wealth of the state. Farm Products. Though Louisiana lands are well adapted to diversified farming, the three products, cotton, rice, and sugar, have in turn yielded such splendid profits in times past that most of the farmers and planters yet cling to the one-crop system, and continue to plant the particular crop whose culture they have become familiar with. Thus in south Louisiana we find extensive sugar plantations, and in southwest Louisiana broad rice fields, while for the remainder of the state cotton is the great staple " money " crop. In St. .James parish, upon sandy alluvial lands, the now famous Perique tobacco grows ; and this same tobacco may be grown upon any of the sandy alluvial lands either of the Mississippi or Red rivers in Louisiana. Corn, hay, and live stock are being produced in increasing quantities, and each year sees the Louisiana planter and farmer less dependent upon his northern and western neighbor. Market gardening has proved profitable in almost every section of the state where tried, especially about New Orleans and along the north and south trunk hues of raih-oad. Fruits. The sandy soils of west and north Louisiana are proving well suited to i)eaches, grapes, and melons. All these yield good profits. Oranges are an important crop along the sotithern coast and along the lower courses of all the streams entering the Gulf. Pecans are grown Cotton Ready for Shipment, New Orleans. 16 LOUISIANA. A Cotton Gin. for the raarket, and many orchards of improved varieties are now being planted. Timber. Extensive areas of cA'press timber occur along the bayous and in the back swamps of all the larger streams. Both long-leafed and short-leafed yellow pine is obtained from the hills. The hard woods, — oak, ash, and other trees, — grow in eoninievcial quantities in the alluvial lands ; and much upland oak for staves is ob- tained from north Louisiana. INDUSTRIES. Farming. Louisiana 1 icing an agricultural state, the chief occujiation of the people is farming or planting. Sugar is manufactured and often refined upon the plan- tation where gi'own, and sirups and molasses are also made there. Manufacturing. As there is no water power in the state, and since it is so far fi'om the great coal fields of the coun- try, comparatively few manufacturing enterprises have been launched here. Only tliose cities and towns, — as New Orleans, Piaqucmine, and Baton Eouge, — whose supplies of coal can be floated to their wharfs from the Pennsyl- vania coal fields can ever hope to become important centers of manufacture. However, the excel- lent facilities for cheap water transportation afforded by the Louisiana Avaterways have in a measure compensated for expensive power, and a few factories are found. The most im- portant, next to the sugar mills, are : pine and cjT^ress mills and factories; mills for cutting hard woods; brirk factories; ice factories; cotton-seed oil mills; a few factories for the manufacture of cotton ; and in New Orleans a few others making leather goods, tobacco, etc. In the long-leafed pine sections a few turpentine orchards are found, and a limited amount of charcoal is made. Cotton compresses arc found in Xew Orleans, Shreveport, and Baton Rouge. Fishing. Along the Gulf coast and the streams trilju- tary to it the fish and oyster industry is important and growing. Besides supplying local inarkets with their pi-oducts, Barataria Bay and Berwick Bay are sending their oysters to distant markets. Commerce. The transportation of both raw and manufactured products is facilitated by the gi-eat length of coast and navigable streams, and by the goodly length of railway lines. As no parish is far removed from a navigable stream, so none is remote from a line of rail- road. There are over 2200 miles of railroad in the state. Government. The state government of Loiiisiana is conducted under tlie constitution of 1898. The legislative deijartment is vested in a general assembly, consisting of a senate and a house of represent- atives. The members of both of these bodies are elected by the people for 4 years. The general assembly meets in May of the even years, and the sessions are limited to 60 daj's. The executive department consists of a goA-ernor, lieu- tenant-governor, auditor, treasurer, and secretary of state, all elected for a term of 4 years by the people. Other state officers whose duties are in a measure ex- ecutive are an attorney-general, an adjutant-general, a state superintendent of public education, and a commis- sioner of agriculture and immigration. The judicial department consists of a supreme court, appellate courts. out "220 feet, in only a few places reaching the height of 300 feet above sea level. The most marked surface feature within this area is Crowleys Ridge, which extends noithward from the Mississippi River at Helena to the St. Francis River at St. Francis, and into Missouri. In Arkansas this ridge curves slightly to tlie west. It is from 1 to 14 miles wide, and in the highest i>art is about 400 feet above sea level, and 180 feet above the adjacent lowland. The cities of Helena, Jlariauna, FoiTest City, Harrisburg, Jonesboro, and I'aragould are situated on this ridge. This elevation is a remnant of a plateau which once extended westward to the highland, and has been removed by the rivers of the region. The northwestern part of the state is largely highland, and is naturally divided by the Arkansas valley into two areas having distinctly diflferent types of mountains. Copyright, JS9S, by American Book Company/. 18 The northern area forms the southern portion of the Ozark Mountains proper. This area has an average ele- vation of about 1.300 feet above the level of the sea. This region represents the type of mountain in which the rock layers are practically horizontal. The highest and southern portion is known as the Boston Mountains. The Boston Mountains fonn a plateau which extends westward into Indian Temtory. The portion in Arkansas is about l.")0 miles long and 30 miles wide. It hnsanaverage elevation of about 1700 feet above the sea level, and gradually slopes southward. It is highest in the southeast part of JIadison county. From this point eastward the north- ern slope is a bold, winding es- carpment, standing in many places 1000 feet above the country at its base. The southern slope, while abrupt, is not so precipitous as the northern. The plateau is dissected by numerous rapid streams, which have cut deep canyons, the intervening hills being of nearly imiform height, and usually level-topped. South of the Arkansas valley the highland region of the state is also a mountainous, rugged area, but very different in ARKANSAS eLtVATlO»«S*BOVeSE* LEVEL [ | jffaw«S00^1QOO.fWt Lumbering, Pine Blufi. ARKANSAS. 19 ■?,:?»v-^o»s«&3 - a #'• . . .^ I n-, .'i-rry Field. character from the nortlieru region. It is composed of several series of parallel ranges running in the main a little north of east and south of west. These mountains belong to the great system that extends from the lowlands of the state westward into Indian Territory. The southern portion of this area is occupied by the Ouachita Mountains, which ai'e composed of several ranges, extending from near Little Rock south of west al- most to the western lioi-der of the state, and have an aver- age height of aljout 1500 feet above sea level. The Ouachita ilouiitains are much surpassed iu height by a series of ridges whicli lie between them and the Arkansas Kiver. Magazine and other mountains iu Logan county, and Mount Nebo, in Yell county, are remnants of a once continuous ridge whieli has been partly woi-u away by streams. Magazine Mountain is tlie highest point in the state, being 2823 feet above sea level. Low parallel ridges belonging to the system extend e:ist of the Arkansas Kiver to the lowland. Locate Crowleys Ridge; Boston Mountains; Ouachita Mountains. Note the general trend of the mountains south of the Ai-kansas River. What is the altitude of your home ? Drainage. In what general direction do the streams of Arkansas flow ? To what river system do they belong? From the map determine into what large rivers the drainage of the state is collected. In the same way trace out tlie water di\"ides between these rivers. Draw a stream map of the state showing the different river basins. Name the principal tributaries of each large river. Into what river does the Red River empty ? The Ouachita ? Tlie two divisions of the highland area form watersheds which determine the principal drainage basins of the state, and between tlieni flows the Arkansas, the most important river. Fi-om the Boston Mountains the streams flow northward and eastward into White River, or south- wai'fl and westward into the Arkansas. In the mountains north of the Ouachita Mountains, the main streams flow eastward along tlie narrow valleys and empty into the Ai'kansas River. The general direction for the drainage of the Ouachita Mountains is southeast. Iu many places the streams cut through the ridges, forming water gaps. The streams of tlie highland region are .swift, many of tho.se in the Ouacliita Mountains affording excellent water power; lint in the lowland area, where the fall is slight, most of them are sluggish and subject to overflow. All parts of the state are well supplied with excellent springs, many of which possess curative qualities, wliile others afford the best of water for domestic purposes. Especially are the springs numerous in the region north of the Boston Moimtains, where some of them are g^igantic. Several of these springs are so large that they are used to drive mills, the most notable one being Mammoth Spring, in Fulton county, which furnishes power to run a cotton mill. Along tlie Mississippi, and throughout the lowland area, frequent changes in the winding streams have formed numerous lagoons, or ox- bow lakes. In the northeastern part of the state are several shallow lakes in what are known as the " sunk lands." This region was sunk by an earthquake in 1811. Climate and Soil. The difference in latitude between the northern and southern parts of the state is iu itself sufficient to make an appreciable difference in the temper- ature of the two sections. To this must be added the va- riations resulting from the high elevations of the northern and central parts. The winters of the entire state are mild, liut while the summers are pleasant in the highland portion, they are warm in the lowlands. The mean annual temperatiu-e for the state is about 63° F. ; that of the noi'thern part, 58° ; of the soiithern part, 05". The winter temper- ature seldom falls below zero in any part of the state, and 112° is about the maximum summer temperature for any part. The yearly rainfall is about 42 inches. The winds are variable, those from the south, south- east, and southwest prevailing. In the highland region most of the soil is residuary, but in the low- land area a great portion of it is transported. Within the state are foimd extensive beds of limestone, sandstone, and shale, the decomposition of which has formed a great variety of soils. The overflows of the Missis- sippi and many other rivers in the lowlands have produced wide flood Ijlains of alluvial soil of inexhaustible fertility. Vegetation. Almost the entire state was formerly cov- ered with timber, which in many jiarts was dense, and much of which is yet standing. Prairies are pretty well distributed over the state, but they are usually so small as not to occupy a lar-ge part of its area. The largest are in the east central part. The timl)er of the highlands is chiefly oak, but hickory, walnut, ash, pine, and maple also occuj-. In the lowlands pine is most abundant, but 'P^^^Hr^-M^lll ^" MlMT^i ■■■■■1 Hit Nil j 11 ^^ '' iim -1 '^MM A Cotton Compress. 20 ARKANSAS. University ol Aikauias, Fayetteville. amonjr other common trees here are the oak, gum, hickory, {Mican, walnut, cypress, cottonwood, magnolia, holly, and irouwood. Dense caneljrakes occur along the flood plains. Physical History. In the geological sense, the highland part of .\rkaMsas is very old, while the lowlands are very young, belonging to what is known as the Tertiary period. As geart of the state is well adapted to sheep-raising. Lumbering. The extensive forests of the state, with th(^ir great variety of timber, make lumbering one of the chief industries. While most of the lumber is shipped out of tlie state for maimfaeturing and building, a large amount is consumed at home. The liard wood of the state is rapidly coming into use for manufacturing. A Street in Little Rock. Mining. Arkansas produces a variety of coal ranging from lignite, an impure form of bituminous coal, to semi- anthracite. Lignite is found in several places in the low- lands. Bituminous and seniianthracite coal are mined in the valley of the Arkansas River, where the workable l)eds are of large extent. Arkansas is one of the leading states in the production of manganese. The workable deposits occur in Indei)end- ence county north of Batesville. Manganese occiu's iu small quantities also in Polk, Pike, Montgomery, Garland, and Hot Springs counties. Deposits of iron ore are widely distributed over the state ; but, being usually of low grade and distant from manufacturing centers, they can- not Ije worked with profit. Marble of excellent quality occiu's widespread over the northi'rn part of the state, and while the quarrying industry is at present undeveloped, it will probably be a source of great profit iu the future. Chalk occurs in Little River, Hempstead, and Clark counties, and is manufactured into Portland cement at White Cliffs. Bauxite, the chief source of aluminum, occurs in large quantities in Pulaski and Saline counties. Deposits of phosphate rock are extensive in the northern part of the state, but their value is not known. Ores of zinc and lead occur also in this section, l)ut poor facilities for trans- jiortation have i)revented the development of the mining industry. Antimony occurs in small quantities in Howard county, and gyp.suni in Pike county. Clay, suitable for the manufacture of coai-se pottery, tile, and bricks, is widely distributed over the state. Xovaculite is the common stone of the Ouachita Mountains, and from it are made the finest oilstones. Manufacturing. While the manufacturing possibilities of Arkansas are very gieat, the industry is not yet well developed. There are several large cotton-seed oil mills in the cotton region. Furniture, flour, cotton goods, canned goods, and machinery are jiroduced in small ([uantities. HISTORY. The .state derives its name from a tribe of Indians known as the Arkansa, who lived near the mouth of the river which also bears their name at the time the region was first explored by white men. The first white men to enter the state were De Soto and his followers, in 1541. The earliest settlement was probably that made by the French, at Arkansas Post, in 168(j. The United States acquired its first right to the territory tlirough the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, and its final right ARKANSAS. 21 state Capitol, Little Rock. by treaties with the Osage and Quapaw Indians in 1818 and 1824. Arkansas was organized as a territory in 1819, and admitted to the Union as a state in 1836. At tlie opening of the civil war, after a controversy in which two conventions were necessary to decide the question, the state passed an ordinance of secession May 5, 1861. It was restored to its former relations with the Union in 1868. Since the war the state has advanced rapidly in Avealth and popuhTtion. In 1870 the popuhatiou was 484,471 ; in 1880 it was 802,525 ; in 1890 it had increased to 1,128,179. Government. The present constitution of Arkansas was adopted in 1874. The legislative department consists of a general assem- bly, which is composed of a senate and a house of rep- resentatives. The general assembly meets biennially. The number of senators must be not less than 30 nor more than 35; and the numlier of representatives, not less than 73 nor more than 100. The senators are elected for four years, and the rep- resentatives for two years. The executive depart- ment comprises a governor, secretary of stcite, auditor, and attorney-general. The constitution empowers the general assembly to pro- vide for a eomniissionei' of lands; a commissioner of mines, manufactures, and agriculture ; a superintend- ent of public instruction; and a state geologist. The judiciary department includes a sui)reme court, circuit courts, county and probate courts, and justices of the peace. Hot Springs. Education. The constitution requires that the state " shall establish and ever maintain a general, suitable, and efficient system of schools whereby all persons in the state between the ages of six and twenty-one years may receive gratuitous education." The public schools are under the general supervision of the state superintendent of public instruction, and under the immediate local supervision of the district directors. Each county holds a normal school annually for one month, and has an examiner whose duty it is to examine and license teachers. There are over 6000 teachers in the state, and 300,000 pupils are enrolled in the schools. Most of tlie towns and all the cities have excellent high schools. The University of Arkansas at Fayettevillc stands at the head of the public educational system of the state, and ranks among the Ijest educa- tional institutions of tlie South. Courses are p;iveu in the sciences, classics, engineering, and agricnlture. Tuition is free. The Branch Normal at Pine Bluff is under the direct supervision of the University of Arkansas, and was established for the education of colored teachers. The state also maintains a school for the blind, and one for deaf-nmtes. Besides the educational facilities offered by the state, there are excel- lent denominational colleges at Clarksville, Conway, Arkadelphia, Bates- ville, and Searcy, and private schools in various places. CITIES AND TOWNS. Littie Bock, the capital and leading city of the state, and also the county seat of Pulaski county, is situated on the south bank of the Arkansas River, and has excellent rail- road facilities. The population is about 45,000. The State Medical School, Deaf-mute and Blind schools. Insane Asylum, and State Prison are located here. There are ex- tensive manufacturing establishments, among which are cotton-seed oil mills, foundries, machine shops, and plan- ing mills. Furniture is also manufactured. Fort Si)iith,the second city of the state in size, has a popu- lation of about 20,000, is situated on the Arkansas River at the western border of the state, and is the county seat of Sebastian county. Its geographic location and excel- lent railroad facilities make it the center of distribution for a large territory, and give it an extensive whole- sale trade. It is the seat of the United States Court for the western district of Ar- kansas. The coal trade is extensive. Furniture, cot- ton-seed oil, fanned goods, and brick and tile are man- ufactured. The public .schools rank high, and the Ingh school building is the finest i)ublic school struc- ture in the state. Pine Bluff, the county seat of .Jefferson county, has large cot- . ton-seed oil mills and an e.vtensive lumber trade. Hot Spriiiffs, the county seat of Garland county, is, on account of 22 AKKAXSAS. its famous springs, one of the great health resorts of tue world. While warm water flows from the ground in a number of places, there are but seven springs in common use. The average temperature of these is 136° F., and the temperature of the hottest is 146.5° V. The amount of mineral matter they contain is really very small. This fact, however, does not detract from their curative value. Helena, the county seat of Phillips county, is situated on the Missis- sippi River. It is an important shipping point. Lumber, boxes, and canned goods are manufactured. It has an excellent United States government Iniilding. The city is well supplied with artesian water. Joueshoio, the county seat of Craighead county, is a tliriviug city with stave, box, and hard-wood factories and exeelknt railroad facilities. Eureka Spriuys, in the northwestern part of the state, is widely known as a health resort. It is a railroad terminus, has an electric street rail- way, and is in the midst of picturesque scenery. Fai/etteiille is the county seat of Washington county. It is an im- portant shipping point for fruit, poultry, and hard wood, and is noted for its beautiful location and hcalthfulness. Arhidelphin, county seat of Clark county; seat of Ouachita College and Arkadelphia Methodist College. BentomiUe, county seat of Benton county; one of the important points MX the northwestern part of the state. Camden, county seat of Ouachita county ; excellent railroad facihties ; cotton compress and wagon faelorj'. lialesrille, county seat of Independence county ; siiipping point for building stone and manganese ore ; seat of Arkansas College ; location of I. 0. 0. F. Widows' and Orphans' Home. Briiikiey, in Monroe county ; railroad center ; manufactures large quantities of lumber and cotton-seed oil. Clarksnlle, county seat of Johnson county, has one of the tinest court- houses in the state ; seat of Arkansas Cumberland College ; important shijjping point for fruit and lumber. Con 11(11/ , county seat of Faulkner county ; seat of Hendrix College and Central liaptist College. Harriaoii, county seat of Boone county ; an enterprising city and an important business center. Magnolia, county seat of Columbia county ; important business center of southern Arkansas. Xeicport, county scat of Jackson county; good railroad facilities and navigation on White River; large cotton compresses. >awmdls, and stave factories. Prescott, county seat of Nevada county ; railroad facilities ; saw- mills and planing nulls. There are many other important and growing places in the state. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 541 540 8 ^•JR ^^^, p V.