b'-y-\'>S- ^< j^<L c re: c c c\xe2\x82\xact:c c<: \xe2\x82\xac< ccxicc c en \n\n^^cc^VS^^^^^ o(c:^ccc^ \xe2\x80\xa2 c^cc, c C\'C CM CD \n\ncYcc ^A ^^\'\' \'^\'^ ^\'\xe2\x96\xa0\' ^^\'^\'^ <-^S^^ \'-1S^^- ^-\' ^\'^ CiC_^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\nrcc cere <;c <j rccccc a^^^c^cec .^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\n5^-CC c Jf^cc; c^^C <K:c:\':c" d \n\n\n\n- 9C^_c<ms:o \n5^^c: ^ccc<r cc \n\n\n\n\n\n\n^ U^<^<cccrc d^ c C \n\n\n\nc c . c <trc <. ccc c: c c:c: c \n\nCc^Ccc:^c OCCjCCCd^C \n\xe2\x96\xa0c c- ^c vcu. cjcrCccc \' \ncc (C -co C<:i<CClccc \' \n:c~r ccT- vCc ci<i<l<^\'cc. <\xc2\xab. \n\nc c: cc- c^\'c cr<ecC\'-cc cr \n\nr c : cc \'X\'y C; <2<C r c<jc cc. \n\n\' cr a C\'vi <r "ccrca cc: \n\n\n\nT cc cr cecc: < \n==c c c cr cc^ J \n\nr cccrccr^^ \nc: cccc^^ c \nr CCC:cc:<C c \nfee cccccccc c< \n\nr c recce cc . ^ \n\n\n\nClicc \n\n\n\nl:.>c ctcc^ ^ \n\nc\\ <c.<2cc-c \n\n^c<rt< o \n\n.cccr < \n\n\n\nCCCCCC^\' Cj^ ic \n\n\n\n5CCX \n\ncc;:c \n\n\n\nLIBRARY OF CONGRESS. \n\n\n\nShelf ,..._^_S_.\'^l= \n\n\n\nUNITED STATES OF AMERICA. \n\n\n\nc: cc^ (CO \n\n\n\ndccccc^ \n\n^c ctioc c ^ \n\n:c c^c<r C - \' \n\nc <^^c - \n:v CECC. c. \ncc <gC -J\' \'\' \'V.,-^. \n\ncc "Cxc^^-" ^;<^ \n\nccc CCrcca g: \n\' CC^CCC^ X g \n\n^:,cc^cccccc<s \n\nc cc\xe2\x82\xacs:c c< ^^^ 5 \n\n\n\n- ^c:"<^r^\'"S^^e CjC^CCaciiic cc c - c \xc2\xabfe^^CCi- CCBCCc :\xe2\x80\xa2: Ci^ \n^^^^i^^CCcc^ c cc <rcccc: era c ^Ccfe^CCc cc <t\'^C C\' ^>^ \n\n\'C(^r ,^^^^53^cxc<cccc: cccc(X(sr(c3cc-cc<st:cc.ccc \n\n^ .r^ CCCCCCC^Cc/CCc^vCCC cc: CCCCCCC(-C\xc2\xab-c cCCCCc C; \n\n\n\n^^^^ \' ccc: cxcc: \n^^^*^c cc<ccc: \n\n\n\n^^c^cc <:xac(:cc<j: \nc ^ \' CCCCC: cc^ocic; \ncc: cccccx cr(ct:c \n\nC ^ C CCCCC C OCTC \nC. Cc \' C CC( CCCC ccc: C \n\n\'CC ccccccccccc \n\nCCC^ C^CCXCCiCCC \nvCC C c cc c Ccc (C<Z G \n\n\n\nc cccscc^ \n\nC (CCCC c ^ \n\n\n\ncCCiCCc.CCC \ncjCCCCC CCC\' \nccc:c cc CCCCC \nc r<^Ccc vccc> \n\n\n\nCCCCCCwCC \n\nCcccccc < C \n\nCCCCC C cC \n\n\n\n\' r 4r^>^;.^3^--5^\'^^^^cccs-cxcc ocd^ C ccxcCicc c: vccccc \nX t r^ f ^^ caccccc cccc .CC c ccc ccc ccc: c c ccicc c \n(^ ^t&ccccccccccc cCC cccrccc.ccicc ( ^mcc \n\nc c 9^ ^- C" cccccccc cc C C CCCCC <cc C < CCCCCC \n\xe2\x96\xa0 ^ ( c \xc2\xab^- r x^ ^:^\'i- \'^ ^ c ccc cc.cc ccc c: c c\xc2\xab \xe2\x96\xa0 c c cc ci\' - c c <a-cc. c \n\nc\'^C^ r 5^%^^ CC:cCCcCCC ccc c C r-cc c A rr --n ..^rtfCcC" \n\ncr^r^ J^^^"" \'c c: c ccacc c ccc C < ^ . , \n\n\' \'?V=f- 5^ Cc.(Cc(^CCr\'CC^.CC C \'CCC c c^ccxcc \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0\' co\'-r "^^"\'^\'^MC^^CQ CCCCC CcC^CC\' \nC^ ."^v. CtccC\' \'^ < <!\' -C C ^CC re CCc c"C <X \'CC c>- c \n\ncC5^. . C CCCCC - r<:r:c cc C/ c (Cl cc^C:\xe2\x80\x9e(C^ c" \n\n\n\nc ccccctc; ^ c \n": . c <m~c c c \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0; c cccc >\xe2\x80\xa2 c C\xc2\xab \n\n^ cc .<\xc2\xaeCc- \xe2\x80\xa2 <^^* \n\n\n\n\n\n\nrc.^ic c \n\n\n\n<\xc2\xa3:\xe2\x80\xa2 c \n\n\n\n\n\n\nL c. t < c c <f c \'- -\xe2\x96\xa0 men. c < <d \'^ \' c <L 5S-5 ^ \n^c CC C-C CC".. \n\nC\'.C Ccc Ccca (r<^(|V.c<X C<r^C:0\'CX.ce \n\n<tv^cc\'c- ca:cc: CTcccc:"c <:.<:; ^\xe2\x96\xa0^<<^-5v \n\nC C CC c CCC\'CC Cc <\'\xe2\x96\xa0 .c C C ( \'dec c- cC.^cX \' \n\nC\'CC"^ <rCCCC:C.; cy l Cc: ^ <^CC/. CJ^^ ; \n\np^cC-O-c^^^ \n\nc;.. a<ic c^- c cc\'c \xe2\x96\xa0cxc/\xc2\xabc;cfi\' <^ SS-\'\'\':^-^ \ncc- Cc^tT^ \xc2\xabr^\' r ^ r\xc2\xabr7, r c^ \xe2\x96\xa0 c c\'\' crrc cCC.\'<l_ C \' \n\n\n\n<c \n\n: -eg \nC ^^__., \n\ncC<C:. \n\n\n\n\n\n\nc \'c: C" ^ crcc: cc : c < cy < cc \nr<.v<c c\'\' cjCc cc .C( c^ < cc \n\ncc cC C cc C:CC C/ O < C \n\ncccicc cr c cc 1^. cc c c \nc c cc-c C\' d: c ccc c c ^c c \n\nC^\'. cccc C^\' C CCc Cxc/CC \nr-;. \'Cc^lcc <\xc2\xa3: c - CC\' cc ^c c \n\n:c c\':c:c <^ ccccvccc -CC \n\n\n\n\' ex. c \n\n\n\nc \xe2\x96\xa0 \n\n\n\'CC \n\n\nc" ; \n\n\n;\'<CC" \n\n\nC-- \n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\xa2\xe2\x96\xa0 f . C\' \n\n\n<c ..- \n\n\n- *\xe2\x96\xa0 <-\': < \n\n\n<r-:- \n\n\n\xe2\x80\xa2\' c c \n\n\n\nCC^CO \n\nccc -CC \nCCC\'CCT. \n\n\n\n: ^Cc C. cdC \'CCCjCC C! C: C. \n.. <J^ CCcCTC CC<xCC-d C \n\n--^,.\xe2\x80\x9e^^. cccxccc.cc \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0c <LCC \n\n\n\nc cc. < c; c \n( c; ( C\' c; \n\ncc-CC c \n\n\'\xe2\x80\xa2 C-. cc^ \nc o:.ccr\\ \n\nc c <- CX\'.. c \n\n\' (CCC\'C- \n\nXc CCX \n\n(:ccre_< \n\n-6^CCc \' \n\nc c C<c- \xe2\x96\xa0 \n\n; CO.\' \n- Cc <C; \n\n\n\ncc \n\n\' c<r \n\ncc . ( \n\ncC cc \n:C C^ \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0X cc \n\n\'(\' "CC \n\n- CC \nCC \n\n\n\n^e "cc^CcCcC <:c \n\n, z^x c c\xc2\xae. \'-\'XC d-CCc CC^ \n\nX ccccAC\xc2\xabrv ccdccccc^^ \nec cxccccc ^\'c-d^xx^<jg^ \n\n\' c e ccc ccjc \'vc cs^ \' v:^\'^\'- c<^. \n\ncccccc cc:^c ^c^e^J^^ \n\nCCC\'cCclCC^^ ^- S$\'5?r^ \nCCCCCcr cc \' ^^ S5\'^\' c \n\n"Tec cc cc \xe2\x96\xa0\xe2\x80\xa2 cjC^is -ee^-^ \n\nCEccc Gic-cccixccr^c O^^ \n\nCkc e C C c cc = CC<^X C. .C<.. . C., : \n\n\n\n:.<\xc2\xabCIC \nC<^I.c \n<\xc2\xabC( \nX<xC< \n.c\'^s:; \n\ncCXCC< \nXXC-\' \n\nCcc ^ \n\n/ . cC c< \n\n^\xe2\x96\xa0tCcC\' \n\nCCCCC \n\n.cCcc> \n\' <\'Cc:\' \' \n\nccCcC\' \n\n\'- \xc2\xabCc ^ \n\n:CCC-< \n\n\n\n\' cccc. \n\n\n"C \n\n\nccC^c \n\n\nc \n\n\n\xc2\xab: CfXC \n\n\nc- \n\n\nrci\xe2\x82\xac\xe2\x82\xac\' \n\n\nc \n\n\nccx:c \n\n\n\n\nCcCCC \n\n\n\n\n\nCC \n\nCc< \n\n\n\nc \n\n\nCC c \n\n\n\' a \n\n\nccc \n\n\n"c \n\n\n<c c_ \n\n\nCCC \n\n\n<l \n\n\nCCX \n\n\nc \n\n\n:-c:c \n\n\nc \n\n\nCCX \n\n\nc<r. \n\n\n: <Z\' < \n\n\n\n<Sc Cc ^ ex: cccc c cc^ c \nicc c c" \xe2\x80\xa2 \xe2\x96\xa0 Cx cc ex:: c: c c ex \n\nXxcor \xe2\x82\xac2" "CC <S:^\'^ c <^C CC \nSX c cc \xe2\x96\xa0\'- CTXcC""<iEc; CCC. CC \n\n,_CiCc \'c^cc <scxcc: eg \n\nc ^^c cc c <c cc <2i"C CCC CC \nC Ccc- CC c CCXC CCe cccc. \n\nCCCC" CC c cc c <E\xc2\xab cc cd \n\n: c c^c CC\' C C C^CXc.cc <S^ \nccct. cc c:cc vc c:c> c c:cc . \n\n\n\n.ccc<^ \n\n\n\nC(\' C^- \xe2\x80\xa2 cdTc \'cccu. cc CCCC c^^ \nr4 f^ C<Crc^ CCc:. CC: CCX CCC \n\n>r CC OCT c CCC cc cccccxc \n^\':A^ cr-^c .:ccc ccccxccccc^ \n\n\n\n^c:\xc2\xab;.cc cc c \n\n\n\nCCCC.XCCC \ncC C \'C c c \n\n\n\nrC ; re \'.\'\'j\\ cccca \'CJ\xc2\xabs:iCjC. c: \n\n\n\ne \n\n\n\nV \n\n\n\n\\\\\\^ --i " \n\n\n\n_^L^il\xc2\xa5f^3^-c \n\n\n\n.a,-\' \n\n\n\n.,;J.\xe2\x80\x9ejV^~ \'^ZJ"&^\'\\ \n\n\n\n--\'--^-.."* \'"i \n\n\n\n\'m]ca^si^Q \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nrl ITS SGJEI^ERY, \n\n\n\nlO \n\n\n\n\nLTISTS\xc2\xbb \n\n\n\nEBITED B,ir J\'i \n\n\n\nSA.V^.(&JEo XiTLoI^l \n\n\n\nTMOM^^S JKEJLXiYc. \n\n\n\nPicturesque Ireland: \n\nA \n\nLITERARY AND ARTISTIC DELINEATION \n\n\n\nTHE NATURAL SCENERY, REMARKABLE PLACES, HISTORICAL \n\nANTIQUITIES, PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ANCIENT ABBEYS, \n\nTOWERS, CASTLES, AND OTHER \n\nRomantic and Attractive Features of Ireland. \n\n\n\nIllustrated in Steel and Wood, by Eminent Native and Foreig7i Artists \n\n\n\n^7^ Edited by JOHN SAVAGE, LL.a \n\n\n\nNEW YORK : \n\nPUBLISHED BY THOMAS KELLY, \n\n358 & 360 Broome Street. \n\n\n\nTHE LIBRARY j \nor CONGRESS ll \n\nWASHHIGTOV i \n\n\n\n\\/ \n\n\n\nCopyright, 7SS4. \n\nBY \nTHOMAS KELLY. \n\n\n\nsv^ \n\n\n\niv Thomas Kelly, New York. \n\n\n\nPreface. \n\n\n\n\ni\'N volumes previously published relating to the subject embraced in this \nWork, it was not unusual, by way of recommendation, to dwell, per- \nhaps with pardonable pride, on the fact, that they severally presented \nscenes which had not been heretofore given through the medium of \nart to the public eye. Circumstances more than choice directed such \na course ; as editors and artists, and especially publishers, deemed it \nrather a risk to go over ground already occupied. It is conceded that \nmany charming scenes, hitherto little known, were thus brought to \nview, and many admirable descriptions of scenery added to the illustrative litera- \nture of Ireland. It must be also admitted, however, that the representative scenic \nsplendors and beauties of the favored island were issued in disconnected forms, \nrunning through a series of works of unequal artistic and literary merit. The cost \nof these several volumes \xe2\x80\x94 all of which have special interest to those bound by \nbirth, descent, or kin to the localities illustrated \xe2\x80\x94 is such as to preclude the ma- \njority of the lovers of Ireland, or students of the historical and the beautiful, from \nobtaining a satisfactory or intelligent knowledge of the entire subject. \n\nWithout reflecting on the works alluded to, the majority of which were of local \nimportance, we can confidently claim that the present work will more fully repre- \nsent the scenery of Ireland at large than any yet published on either side of the \nAtlantic. \n\nPicturesque Ireland is designed to embrace and present all the best and \nmost striking features of preceding works on the subject \xe2\x80\x94 reproductions of the \npictures and drawings of eminent artists who have, during the present century, \ngiven such a notable impetus to the study of Irish scenery, topography, and anti- \nquities \xe2\x80\x94 with hundreds of other views from recent photographs and drawings, \n\n3 \n\n\n\n4 PRE FA CE. \n\nespecially engraved for the work. Thus the characteristic features \xe2\x80\x94 natural, \narchaeological, and architectural, of all sections of the country \xe2\x80\x94 north and south, \neast and west \xe2\x80\x94 the public streets and buildings of the chief cities, the beautiful \nrivers and enchanting lakes, magnificent coast lines, historical castles, old abbeys \nand towers, wild mountains, picturesque valleys, glens, and waterfalls \xe2\x80\x94 from the \nGiant\'s Causeway and the solemn grandeur of the coasts of Antrim and Donegal \nin the north, to the poetical Lakes of Killarney, and the romantic mountain-gaps \nand river scenery of Tipperary, Waterford, Cork, and Kerry in the south ; from \nthe exquisite glens and cataracts on the Liffey in Dublin and Wicklow in the east, \nto the expanding magnificence of the Shannon and the wilds of Connemara in the \nwest, \xe2\x80\x94 will be reproduced in an attractive form, and at a price which will be within \nthe means of every intelligent family. \n\nIn this work every county in Ireland will be noticed, and the remarkable fea- \ntures of each illustrated. Artists and engravers who have already raised the \nstandard of American excellence in Illustrated Works, add their ability and skill \nto the intrinsic attractiveness of the subject, and the affinities and experience of the \nEditor may be taken as a guarantee that the literary portion of the work will be \xe2\x80\x94 - \nin descriptive, historical, and antiquarian matter \xe2\x80\x94 as variously full, suggestive, or \nexhaustive as the themes may command, or space permit. \n\nFor works of this nature, combining Literature and Art, a taste and apprecia- \ntion has been developed among cultivated people in America and Europe, result- \ning in a demand at once highly creditable to the producers and the purchasers. \nThe Publisher congratulates himself upon having made this work, in artistic \nexcellence, mechanical skill, and general elegance, fully equal to the prevailing \nhigh expectations in relation to undertakings of its class. \n\n\n\nCONTENTS. \n\n\n\n^ PAGE \n\nINTRODUCTION xix \n\nKERRY 5 \n\nWICKLOW 6i \n\n\n\nANTRIM . \n\n\n\nlog \n\n\n\nGALWAY 1 77 \n\nMEATH 245 \n\nWESTMEATH 2S5 \n\nLONGFORD 290 \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n293 \n\n\n\nMAYO 3S1 \n\nCARLOW 401 \n\nCORK 405 \n\nKING\'S COUNTY 471 \n\nARMAGH 473 \n\nROSCOMMON 477 \n\nQUEEN\'S COUNTY 479 \n\nFERMANAGH 4S1 \n\nLEITRIM 4S7 \n\nMONAGHAN 4S8 \n\nLOUTH 489 \n\nWEXFORD 497 \n\nSLIGO 509 \n\nDONEGAL , 513 \n\nCAVAN 520 \n\nWATERFORD \xe2\x96\xa0 521 \n\nTYRONE 535 \n\nKILKENNY 537 \n\nLIMERICK 551 \n\nKILDARE 565 \n\nLONDONDERRY 573 \n\nCLARE 579 \n\nDOWN 589 \n\nTIPPERARY 602 \n\nGENERAL INDEX 617 \n\niii \n\n\n\n^"^ \n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\n\n\nMap of Ireland. Engraved expressly for Savage\'s Picturesque Ireland. . . \n\nSligo Abbey. Title page \n\nMap of Kerry \n\nView on the Blackwater (Kerry), from the Bridge \n\nBlackwater Bridge \n\nTunnel on Kenmare Road \n\nRocks on Kenmare Road \xe2\x80\x94 Lake view \n\nTore Cascade \n\nTore Cascade \n\nThe Chancel, Muckross \n\nMuckross Abbey, Eastern Window \n\nFireplace at Muckross \n\nViews at Muckross : \n\nWest Porch and Nave "1 \n\nNave I \n\nInnisfallen \n\nMuckross, The Chancel \n\nChancel and Nave \n\nMuckross by Moonlight T. . . \n\nTomb of the Monks \n\nDoorway at Aghadoe \n\nKate Kearney\'s Cottage \n\nRapids in the Gap of Dunloe \n\nTore and Lower Lake, from Tore Cascade \n\nGap of Dunloe \n\nThe Pike ,. \n\nThe Balance Rock \n\nDerrycunnihy \n\nDerrycunnihy Cascade \n\nEagle\'s Nest \n\nOld Weir Bridge \n\nUnder the Rocks at Tore Lake \n\nOld Weir Bridge, near view \n\nThe Cottage on Dinis Island \n\nBrickeen Bridge \n\nInnisfallen \n\nO\'Sullivan\'s Cascade \n\nCottage at Glena \n\nRuins of Ross Castle \n\nRoss Island \n\nRoss Castle by Moonlight \n\nO\'Donoghue\'s Horse \n\nThe Vision of O\'Donoghue \n\nEagle\'s Nest Mountain, from Kenmare Road. \n\nKillaSihie Church \n\n\n\nARTIST. \n\nRussell. \n\nT. M. Baynes. \n\nRussell. \n\nG. W. Gibson. \n\nJ. Noblett. \n\nA. Nicholl. \n\nF. B. Schell. \n\nG. W. Gibson. \nA. Nicholl. \n\nA. Nicholl. \nA. Nicholl. \nR. D. Tongue. \n\n\n\nT. S. Prout. \nA. Nicholl. \nG. W. Gibson. \n\nF. W. Hulme. \n\nG. W. Gibson. \nG. W. Gibson. \n\n, A. Nicholl. \n, R. D. Tongue. \n, G. W. Gibson. \n\nF. B. Schell. \n\nA. Nicholl. \n\nF. B. Schell. \n\nW. Gibson. \n\nA. Nicholl. \n\nA. Nicholl. \n\nA. Nicholl. \n\nA. Nicholl. \n\nF. B. Schell. \nA. Nicholl. \nA. Nicholl. \nA. Nicholl. \n\nG. W. Gibson. \nR. D, Tongue. \nJ. R. Herbert. \nW. H. Gibson. \nR. D, Tongue. \n\n\n\nENGRAVER. PAGE \n\nStruthers \n\nW. Watson \n\nStruthers 5 \n\nHarley 5 \n\nLandells 6 \n\nLandells 7 \n\nMeeder\xe2\x80\x94 Chubb . . S \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb . . g \n\nLandells 10 \n\nLandells 10 \n\nLandells 11 \n\nLandells 11 \n\n\n\nLauderbach 13 \n\n\n\nEvans 17 \n\nLandells.- 17 \n\nMeeder\xe2\x80\x94 Chubb . . iS \n\nW. Measom 19 \n\nBaker 20 \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb . . 21 \n\nWalmsley 22 \n\nLandells 23 \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb . . 24 \n\nHarley 25 \n\nLandells 27 \n\nHarley 2S \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb . . 29 \n\nLandells 30 \n\nGreen 30 \n\nLandells 31 \n\nLandells 32 \n\nLauderbach 33 \n\nGreen 35 \n\nWalmsley. . 35 \n\nLandells 36 \n\nHarley 37 \n\nLandells 38 \n\nLandells 39 \n\nMorse 41 \n\nLandells 43 \n\nvii \n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\n\n\n1 \n\n\n\nJ \n\n\n\nW. H. Gibson. \n\n\n\nDevil\'s Punch Bowl F. B. Schell. \n\nProfile of Rocks at Devil\'s Punch Bowl V. Abrahams. \n\nFlesk River F. W. Hulme. \n\nOver the Upper Lake, Killarney F. W. Hulme. \n\nTore Mountains, from Dinis Island W. H. Gibson. \n\nGalway River (Killarney), Cascade on \xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x96\xa0 F. B. Schell. \n\nShore of Dingle Bay W. Evans. \n\nViews at and near Killarney ; \n\nKillarney, distant view of the lakes \n\nLake in Gap of Dunloe \n\nThe Friar\'s Grave \n\nCottage at Derrycunnihy \n\nOn the Kenmare Road \n\nDinis Cottage \n\nKillarney, Victoria Hotel \n\nPusha Pike Fishing W. Willes. \n\nFerriter\'s Castle "W. Evans. \n\nBallybunian, On the Coast F. B. Schell. \n\nArdfert Abbey H. Hill. \n\nTomb in Ardfert Abbey H. Hill. \n\nMount Brendan \n\nMap of Wicklow Russell. \n\nFirst View of Wicklow, from the Scalp W. H. Gibson. \n\nScalp G. F. Sargent. \n\nBray-Head to " Sugar Loaf," from Dalkey, North G. F. Sargent. \n\nBray-Head, South \xe2\x80\xa2 F. B. Schell. \n\nA Narrow Gorge in the Dargle G. F. Sargent. \n\nIn the Dargle W. H. Gibson. \n\nBridge in the Dargle W. H. Gibson. \n\nCascade in the Dargle A. Nichol. \n\nThe Golden Spears, from over the Glen of the Downs F. B. Schell. \n\nLough Dan, near view F. B. Schell \n\nGlen of the Downs, South A. NichoU. \n\nDelgany G. F. Sargent. \n\nLough Dan, from Luggelaw G. F. Sargent. \n\nLuggelaw, the barren side G. F. Sargent. \n\nLough Dan A. Nicholl. \n\nIn the Vale of Clara W. H. Gibson. \n\nLough Bray ... A. Nicholl. \n\nRathdrum F. B. Schell. \n\nGlenmalure W. H. Gibson. \n\nThe Valley of Glen-da-Lough W. H. Gibson. \n\nThe Abbey, or Priory of St. Saviour \'.A. Nicholl. \n\nSt. Kevin\'s Kitchen W. F. Wakeman. \n\nOur Lady\'s Church \xe2\x80\x94 Doorway A. Nicholl. \n\nThe Church of Rhefeart A. Nicholl. \n\nSt. Kevin\'s Cell A. Nicholl. \n\nSt. Kevin\'s Bed A. Nicholl. \n\nAncient Stone Cross and Round Tower, at Glen-da-Lough F. B. Schell. \n\nIn the Devil\'s Glen F. B. Schell \n\nEntrance to to the Devil\'s Glen A. Nicholl. \n\nHead of Devil\'s Glen A. Nicholl. \n\nOver the Devil\'s Glen G. F. Sargent. \n\nThe View Rock, Dunran A. Nicholl. \n\nWaterfall in the Devil\'s Glen W. H. Gibson. \n\nWaterfall at Hermitage G. F. Sargent. \n\nVale of Afroca W. H. Gibson. \n\nSecond Meeting of the Waters, from Ballintemple A. Nicholl. \n\nNear " The Old Wooden Bridge " , \n\n\n\nENGRAVER. PAGE \n\nF. S. King 44 \n\nWalmsley 45 \n\nW. Measom 45 \n\nW. T. Green 46 \n\nJ. Filmer 4S \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb ... 4g \n\nGreen 52 \n\n\n\nEvans 54 \n\nGreen 55 \n\nLauderbach 56 \n\nLandells 57 \n\nSly 57 \n\n59 \n\nStruthers 61 \n\nJ. Filmer 6i \n\nGreen 63 \n\nWhimper 64 \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb ... 65 \n\nWalmsley 67 \n\nSmithwick \xe2\x80\x94 French 6S \n\nMorse 69 \n\nWhimper 70 \n\nF. S. King 72 \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 73 \n\nLandells 74 \n\nArmstrong 75 \n\nMiss Williams 75 \n\nT. Williams 76 \n\nLandells 76 \n\nJ. Filmer 77 \n\nWhimper 7S \n\nJ. Filmer So \n\nSmithwick \xe2\x80\x94 French Si \n\nKarst S5 \n\nT. Williams S6 \n\nHanlon S7 \n\nE. Evans SS \n\nBastin SS \n\nBastin 90 \n\nJackson 92 \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb ... 93 \n\nHarley 96 \n\nLandells 97 \n\nT. Gilks gS \n\nArmstrong 99 \n\nLandells 100 \n\nJ. Filmer lOi \n\nWalmsley 102 \n\nJohnston 105 \n\nGreen 106 \n\n106 \n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\n\n\nNAME. ARTIST. \n\nLower Vale of Avoca, and Shelton Abbey J. Bentley. \n\nArklow Prior. \n\nMap of Antrim Russell . \n\nThe Giant\'s Gate \xe2\x80\x94 Causeway, Antrim F. B. Schell. \n\nMethodist College, Belfast J. R. Brown. \n\nBelfast, Antrim side of the Lagan J. R. Brown. \n\nBelfast, Queen\'s Quay \xe2\x80\x94 Down side of the Lagan J. R. Brown. \n\nQueen\'s College, Belfast J. R. Brown. \n\nPresbyterian College J. R . Brown. \n\nBotanical Garden, Belfast G. F. Sargent. \n\nLibrary, Queen\'s College, Belfast J. R. Brown. \n\nThe Albert Memorial, Belfast J. R. Brown. \n\nNorth Gate, Carrickfergus J. R. Brown. \n\nCarrickfergus Castle, from the land side T. V. Watson. \n\nSwift\'s Church, at Kilroot A. Nicholl. \n\nGlenarm W. H. Gibson. \n\nOlderfleet Castle J. H. Burgess. \n\nThe Goblin Cliffs A. Nicholl, \n\nCastles at Carrickfergus and Glenarm : \n\nCarrickfergus Castle, from the water \\ \n\nAntrim Castle (- W. H. Gibson. . \n\nGlenarm Castle ) \n\nThe Maidens J. H. Burgess. \n\nBarbican of Antrim Castle A. Nicholl. \n\nBridge and Castle at Glenarm A. Nicholl. \n\nGarron Tower F. B. Schell. \n\nRoad through Cliff, at Garron Point A. Nicholl. \n\nClough-i-Stookan A. Nicholl. \n\nTunnel at Red Bay A. Nicholl. \n\nMurlough Bay A. Nicholl. \n\nPairhead F. B. Schell. \n\nEntrance to Grey Man\'s Path A. Nicholl. \n\nThe Salt Pans A. Nicholl. \n\nThe Grey Man\'s Path W. H. Gibson. \n\nKenbane, looking over Bally Castle Bay to Fairhead A. Nicholl. \n\nCarrick-a-Rede and Sheep Island \n\nKenbane Castle, from Southeast \xe2\x80\x94 Rathlin in the distance F. B. Schell. \n\nCarrick-a-Rede, at the Rope Bridge F. B. Schell. \n\nCarrick-a-Rede \xe2\x80\x94 Base of the Chasm A. Nicholl. \n\nBengore Head \xe2\x80\x94 The Pleaskin, from the West A. Nicholl. \n\nDunseverick Castle J. O. Davidson. \n\nBruce\'s Castle A. Nicholl. \n\nDoon Point A. Nicholl. \n\nThe Giant\'s Causeway A. Nicholl. \n\nThe Lion\'s Head A. Nicholl. \n\nPleaskin \xe2\x80\x94 Giant\'s Causeway W. H. Gibson. \n\nThe King and his Nobles, from the West A. Nicholl. \n\nThe Nursing Child\xe2\x80\x94 Priest and His Flock A. Nicholl. \n\nChimney Rock \xe2\x80\x94 Giant\'s Causeway F. B. Schell, \n\nThe Chimney Tops, from the East A. Nicholl. \n\nThe Giant\'s Organ A. Nicholl. \n\nThe Giant\'s Causeway, East A. Nicholl. \n\nThe Giant\'s Causeway, from land side J. O. Davidson. \n\nThe Giant\'s Well A. Nicholl. \n\nThe " Honeycomb," Middle Causeway, from Little Causeway F. B. Schell. \n\nViews on the Antrim Coast : \n\nBridge of Glendun \n\nTown Hall at Lame \\ W. H. Gibson. \n\nGrace Staple\'s Cave \n\n\n\nENGRAVER. PAGE \n\nGreen 107 \n\nSmith loS \n\nStruthers igg \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb... 109 \n\nBrewer iii \n\nBrewer 112 \n\nBrewer 113 \n\nBrewer 114 \n\nBrewer 115 \n\nMiss Clint 115 \n\nBrewer 116 \n\nBrewer 117 \n\nBrewer iiS \n\nEvans 119 \n\nLandells 120 \n\nHarley 121 \n\nJ. Andrew 123 \n\nWhimper 124 \n\n\n\n125 \n\n\n\nWhimper 126 \n\nC. Gray 127 \n\nEvans 128 \n\nJ. Filmer 129 \n\nSmith 130 \n\nC. Gray 130 \n\nWhimper 131 \n\nJ. Wakefield 132 \n\nSmithwick \xe2\x80\x94 French 133 \n\nWhimper 134 \n\nWhimper 136 \n\nJ. Hellawell 137 \n\nJ. Kirchner 138 \n\n139 \n\nVarley 140 \n\nLangridge 141 \n\nSmith 142 \n\nMiss Williams 144 \n\nJ. Filmer 145 \n\nWhimper 146 \n\nJackson , 148 \n\nSmith 148 \n\nJackson 148 \n\nJohnson 149 \n\nJackson 151 \n\nEvans 152 \n\nCole 152 \n\nWhimper 154 \n\nJackson 155 \n\nJackson 156 \n\nLangridge 157 \n\nSmith 158 \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb . , . 160 \n\n\n\nJ. Filmer 161 \n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0cd: \n\n\n\nNAME. \n\nViews on the Antrim Coast. \xe2\x80\x94 Coiitina \n\nGlenarifF \n\nChurch at Layd \xe2\x80\x94 Ossian\'s Grave \n\nPort Coon Cave \n\nDunkeny Cave \n\nBush Mill \n\nShane\'s Castle \n\nShane\'s Castle, from Lough Neagh \n\nViews near Shane\'s Castle and Lough Neagh ; \n\nO\'Neill\'s Tomb \n\nO\'Neill\'s Chair and Seal \n\nShane\'s Castle, showing Terrace fronting the Lough. . \n\nTemplecoran Church \n\nTrummery Round Tower \n\nLisburn \n\nRound Tower at Antrim \n\nMap of Galway \n\nThe Abbey of Clare-Galway \n\nArch in the Claddagh \n\nStreet in Galway \n\nWarden Lynch\'s House, 1493 \n\nMarket of the Claddagh Fishermen \n\nAntique Claddagh Ring \n\nQueen\'s College, Galway \n\nViews at Galway and Gort ; \n\nIn the Claddagh \n\nAVest Bridge and Father Daly\'s Chapel \n\nLoughoutra Castle \n\nLough Inagh \n\nTwelve Pin (Bennebola) Mountains, and Lake of Kyleraore. \n\nOver Lough Inagh .... \n\nView from Coolnacartan Hill \n\nLough Derry, Clare, and Maam Turk Mountains \n\nLoiigh Fee \n\nGarromin, Connemara \n\nGlen in Connemara \n\nBallinahinch \n\nViews on Western Highlands, Connemara : \n\nLetterfrack and Diamond Hill \n\nGlendalough \n\nTwelve Pin Mountains \n\nLough Ballinahinch \n\nA Salmon Haul \n\nBelow the Falls at Clifden \n\nClifden \n\nClifden Falls \n\nOn the Kylemore Road \n\nThe Coast at Rinvyle \n\nIn the Pass at Kylemore \n\nKillery \n\nSalruc Pass \n\nHotel at Maam \n\nHen\'s Castle at Lough Coorib, and Maam Turk Mountains. \n\nLeenane \n\nMoving Bog \n\nViews in Connemara : \n\nClifden Castle \n\nPass and Lake of Kylemore \n\nIn the Pass of Kylemore \n\nKylemore Castle \n\n\n\nW. H. Gibson. \n\nA. NichoU. \nF. B. Schell. \nA. Nicholl. \nW. H. Gibson. \nA. Nicholl. \n\n\n\nj \n\n\\ W. H. Gibson. \n\n\n\nC. C. Hamilton. \nJ. R. Brown.. . . \n\n\n\nW. H. Gibson. \nG. F. Sargent. \nW. Evans. \nF. B. Schell. \nW. Evans. \nF. W. Fairholt. \nW. H. Gibson. \n\n\n\nW. H. Gibson. \n\nW. Evans. \nW. Brown. \nW. H. Gibson. \nF. B. Schell. \nW. H. Gibson. \nW. Evans. \nF. B. Schell. \n\n\n\nJ. Filmer 161 \n\nC. Gray 163 \n\nJ. Filmer 165 \n\nJackson 167 \n\nR. Schellim 169 \n\nJackson 172 \n\n\n\nJ. Filmer 173 \n\n\n\nNicholls 175 \n\n176 \n\n177 \n\nSmithwick \xe2\x80\x94 French 177 \n\nEvans 17S \n\nWhimper 179 \n\nJ. Filmer iSi \n\nJackson 1S3 \n\nNicholls 1S3 \n\nMeeder\xe2\x80\x94 Chubb ... 1S5 \n\n\n\nW. H. Gibson. \n\n\n\nW. H. Gibson. \n\nF. W. Fairholt. \nF. W. Fairholt. \nW. H. Gibson. \nW. H. Gibson. \nW. Evans. \nW. Evans. \nW. H. Gibson. \nF. W. Fairholt. \nW. H. Gibson. \nF. W. Fairholt. \nW. Evans. \nF. B. Schell. \n\n\n\nJ. Clement 1S9 \n\nEvans 191 \n\nWatson 192 \n\nLangridge 193 \n\nMeeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb.... 197 \n\nSmithwick \xe2\x80\x94 French 201 \n\nVizetelly 203 \n\nVarley 205 \n\nDalziel 207 \n\nMextom 209 \n\n\n\nJ.Johnstone 213 \n\nNicholls 214 \n\nWalmsley 216 \n\nVarley 217 \n\nJ. Filmer 221 \n\nVizetelly 222 \n\nJackson 224 \n\nJ. Filmer 225 \n\nBastin 227 \n\nVarley 22S \n\nArmstrong 229 \n\nEvans 231 \n\nHarley 233 \n\n\n\nMrs. W. D. Griffiths 235 \n\n\n\nW. H. Gibson. \n\n\n\nVarley 237 \n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\n\n\nKuins of Kilfursa \n\nLough Mask, from Fairhill F. W. Fairholt. \n\nDoorway of St. Patrick\'s Church, Inchangoill. \n\nDoorway of the Church of the Saint \n\nImpost Capital, right I From Wilde\'s Lough \\ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^^_ \n\nImpost Capital, left I Conib \n\nMonumental Stone, West \n\nMonumental Stone, East \n\nTuam Cathedral F. W^ Fairholt. \n\nStatue of John of Tuam \n\nMap of Meath \n\nTrim, from Over the Boyne W. H. Gibson. \n\nTrim Castle : W. F. Wakeman. \n\nInterior of Trim Castle \n\nAncient Tomb of Clonard W. F. Wakeman. \n\nWellington Monument, Trim W. H. Gibson. \n\nScurlogstown Castle W. F. Wakeman. \n\nNewtown Bridge and St. John\'s Priory W. F. Wakeman. \n\nAbbey of St. Peter and St. Paul G. Gastineau. \n\nBective Abbey J. B. Burgess. \n\nTara Hill W. H. Gibson. \n\nThe Boyne, and Plain of Meath W. H. Gibson. \n\nAthlumney Castle W. F. Wakeman. \n\nPillar Stone on the Hill of Tara W. F. Wakeman . \n\nAbbey of Slane W. H. Gibson. \n\nDoorway, Hermitage of St. Ere W. F. Wakeman. \n\nChoir Arch, Cannistown W. F. Wakeman. \n\nFont of Kilcarn W. F. Wakeman. \n\nCarvings on the Font of Kilcarn \xe2\x80\x94 First View W. F. Wakeman. \n\nCarvings on the Font of Kilcarn \xe2\x80\x94 Second View W. F. Wakeman. \n\nSt. Kieren\'s Cross W. F. Wakeman. \n\nRound Tower, Donaghmore J. B. Burgess. \n\nDistant View of Dangan Castle J. B. Burgess. \n\nSwift\'s Parish Church, at Laracor \n\nDonaghmore Abbey and Tower J. Warren. \n\nDunmoe Castle John Savage. \n\nThe Boyne, from Old Bridge G. Du Noyer. \n\nMound of New Grange After Wakeman. \n\nRuins of Dangan Castle : \n\nViews at New Grange ; \n\nAncient Remains of New Grange ) \xe2\x80\x9e , ,^ \xe2\x80\x9e \n\n\\ Tudor Horton, after Connolly. \n\n\n\n23S \n\nEvans 240 \n\n241 \n241 \n\nKenny \xe2\x80\x94 Redman. . ~^\' \n242 \n\n242 \n242 \n\nEvans 243 \n\n244 \n\n245 \n\nFilmer 245 \n\nJackson 24S \n\n249 \n\nHanlon 250 \n\nFilmer 251 \n\nHanlon 251 \n\nNugent 252 \n\nBastin 253 \n\nMiss Williams. . . . 255 \n\nSmith 256 \n\nSmith 257 \n\nHanlon 258 \n\n260 \n\nClement 261 \n\nHanlon 262 \n\nHanlon 263 \n\nHanlon 263 \n\nHanlon 264 \n\nHanlon 264 \n\nHanlon .... 266 \n\nSly 267 \n\nDalzie! 26S \n\n\n\nEastern Recess, or Crypt. . . \n\nStones of the Circle \n\nCarving in Eastern Recess. \n\n\n\nCarving in Eastern Recess V Tudor Horton, after Wakeman. \n\nCarved Stone on Exterior 1 \n\nEntrance to Gallery J \n\nKilsharvan Church \n\nNorthern Crypt, in New Grange A. NichoU. \n\nMound of Dowth W. F. Wakeman. \n\nEntrance to Gallery, Dowth W. F. Wakeman. \n\nCaillemote\'s Grave G. Du Noyer. \n\nDonore Hill and Church Ruins G. Du Noyer. \n\nThe Old Sheep-House G. Du Noyer. \n\nTara Brooch \n\nMap of Westmeath \n\nMultifemam Abbey John Savage. \n\nOld Gateway at Fore Tudor Horton. \n\nAthlone, from Westmeath J. Warren. \n\n\n\nCammeyer 271 \n\nJ. Filmer 273 \n\nMiss Williams. . . . 274 \n\nCuUen 275 \n\n\n\nKenny \xe2\x80\x94 Redman. 276 \n\n\n\nKenny \xe2\x80\x94 Redman. 276 \n\n\n\n27S \n\nGilks 279 \n\nHanlon 2S0 \n\nHanlon 281 \n\nLandells 282 \n\nLandells 2S3 \n\nLandells 2S4 \n\n284 \n\n285 \n\nJ. Filmer 285 \n\nKenny \xe2\x80\x94 Redman. 2S7 \n\nFilmer 288 \n\n\n\nxii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\nNAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGP \n\nMap of Longford 2gu \n\nMaria Edgeworth\'s Residence F. W. Fairholt. Landells 290 \n\nRuins of Goldsmith\'s Early Home G. F. Sargent. Evans 291 \n\nThe Site of the Hawthorn Bush F. W Fairholt. Landells 291 \n\nScenes of Goldsmith\'s " Deserted Village " : \n\nThree Pigeons S \n\nThe Church I \xe2\x80\x9e \xe2\x80\x9e 01,11 -c-i \n\n> !\xe2\x96\xa0 . B. Schell. Fumer 292 \n\nThe Vicarage \n\nThe Busy Mill J \n\nMap of Dublin 295 \n\nView in Phcenix Park, Dublin 293 \n\nHowth Harbor and Lighthouse G. F. Sargent. Green 294 \n\nHowth Abbey G. F. Sargent. Evans 295 \n\nHowth Castle 296 \n\nHowth Head and Beach J. O. Davidson. Harley 297 \n\nSt. Doulough\'s Church F. W. Wakeman 298 \n\nSt. Doulough\'s Well J. Connell. Wakefield 299 \n\nMalahide Abbey Tudor Horton . Kenny \xe2\x80\x94 Redman . 300 \n\nThe Bailey Lighthouse J. O. Davidson. Filmer \n\nMalahide Castle G. F. Sargent. Wakefield 302 \n\nRound Tower and Church, Lusk A. NichoU. Evans 303 \n\nRound Tower and Church, Swords G. F. Sargent. Landells 304 \n\nDemesne and Castle of Howth \xe2\x80\x94 Ireland Eye and Lambay in the Distance . After Bartlett. Littell 305 \n\nSwords Castle G. F. Sargent. Evans 306 \n\nNew Railway Station, at North Wall 30S \n\nThe Liffey \xe2\x80\x94 Carlisle Bridge 309 \n\nBirmingham Tower G. Du Noyer. Nugent 310 \n\nChrist Church Cathedral G. F. Sargent. Bastin 311 \n\nSt. Patrick\'s Cathedral, Southeast G. F. Sargent. Armstrong 312 \n\nOn the Liffey \xe2\x80\x94 Wood Quay \xe2\x80\x94 Richmond Bridge 313 \n\nStrongbow\'s Monument \xe2\x80\x94 Christ Church 314 \n\nCrypt \xe2\x80\x94 Christ Church 315 \n\nNorman Doorway \xe2\x80\x94 Christ Church 316 \n\nSt. Patrick\'s Cathedral, East Harral 317 \n\nSt. Patrick\'s Cathedral, South 31S \n\nSwift\'s Monument 319 \n\nSwift\'s Birthplace 320 \n\nSt. Patrick\'s Cathedral, Interior 321 \n\nRoom in which Lord Edward was Captured H. MacManus. Jackson 323 \n\nSackville Street \xe2\x80\x94 General Post Office 324 \n\nSackville Street \xe2\x80\x94 Nelson\'s Pillar, from Carlisle Bridge. 325 \n\nBank of Ireland \xe2\x80\x94 Old Parliament House, from southeast G. F. Sargent. Walmsley 327 \n\nCastle Yard 329 \n\nBurke Statue 330 \n\nGrattan Statue 331 \n\nO\'Connell\'s Residence, Merrion Square 332 \n\nChapel Royal, and Birmingham Tower Harral 333 \n\nMornington House 335 \n\nStatue of William III 336 \n\nThe Chapel Royal, Interior 337 \n\nMoore\'s Birthplace \xe2\x80\x94 as it was - 339 \n\nRotunda and Lying-In Hospital 340 \n\nThe Four Courts (of Law) 341 \n\nMoore\'s Birthplace \xe2\x80\x94 as it is 342 \n\nNew Railway Bridge over the Liffey 344 \n\nStatue of Oliver Goldsmith Roberts 345 \n\nView down Dame Street, from Trinity College \xe2\x80\x94 Grattan \'s Statue, King \n\nWilliam\'s in the rear 347 \n\nThe Custom- House\xe2\x80\x94 South Front 349 \n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xiii \n\nNAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGE \n\nOgham Stone in Trinity College 351 \n\nBell Tower, Trinity College 352 \n\nTrinity College^the Quadrangle G. F. Sargent. Evans 355 \n\nTrinity College 356 \n\nLibrary, Trinity College 357 \n\nBirthplace of Burke 359 \n\nSt. Michan\'s Church \xe2\x80\x94 Burial-Place of Emmet 360 \n\nO\'Connell Monument, Glasnevin 361 \n\nBank of Ireland (Old Parliament House) 364 \n\nHouse of Lords \xe2\x80\x94 Old Parliament House 365 \n\nThe Bank \xe2\x80\x94 Eastern Fa9ade and Portico, from College Gate 366 \n\nSt. Patrick\'s Bell 366 \n\nShrine of the Bell 366 \n\nSt. Stephen\'s Green \xe2\x80\x94 North Side 367 \n\nGrafton Street \xe2\x80\x94 Bank on left\xe2\x80\x94 College on right - 368 \n\nAlbert Memorial (Dublin) 369 \n\nBloody Bridge G. F. Sargent. Wakefield 370 \n\nStatue of Earl of Carlisle 37\xc2\xb0 \n\nBird\'s-Eye View of Dublin, from the Summit of Nelson\'s Pillar \xe2\x80\x94 Dub- \nlin Mountains in the Southern Distance 371 \n\nView in Phoenix Park 374 \n\nTunnel under Phcenix Park 375 \n\nVice-Royal Lodge, Phcenix Park 376 \n\nClondalkin and Round Tower\xe2\x80\x94 Southern Approach 377 \n\nDistant View of Clondalkin Round Tower, from the North H. O\'Neill. Mason 37S \n\nSkerry Islands 379 \n\nDublin Bay, from Dalkey, over Kingstown Tuttle. Tuttle 380 \n\nMap of Mayo 3Si \n\nCong Abbey , Frank Bellew. Meeder \xe2\x80\x94 Chubb.. . 3S1 \n\nGateway, Cong Abbey F. W. Fairholt. NichoUs 382 \n\nChancel Windows, Cong Abbey F. W. Fairholt. Evans 3S2 \n\nThe Pigeon Hole F. W. Fairholt. Branston 383 \n\nThe Cross of Cong F. W. Fairholt. Walmsley 384 \n\nThe Killeries, Mayo Dalziel 385 \n\nIn the Mountains of Mayo W. Evans. Vizetelly 386 \n\nApproach to Delphi W. Evans. Evans 387 \n\nOver Delphi Lodge \'\xe2\x80\xa2 W. H. Gibson. Langridge 389 \n\nMoyne Abbey 39^ \n\nHead of the Killeries W. H. Gibson. G. F. Smith 392 \n\nClew Bay F. W. Fairholt. Bastin 393 \n\nRuins of St. Colman\'s 394 \n\nNewport-Mayo F. W. Fairholt. Landells 395 \n\nBurrishoole Abbey F. W. Fairholt. Evans 396 \n\nCarrig-a-Hooley Castle : F. W. Fairholt. Evans 396 \n\nMuilrea, Killeries F. B. Schell. H. Gray 397 \n\nA Village on Achill F. W. Fairholt. A. J. Mason 399 \n\nRocks on Achill F. W. Fairholt. Evans 400 \n\nOn the Moy 4\xc2\xb0\xc2\xb0 \n\nMap of Carlow \xe2\x80\xa2 4\xc2\xb0! \n\nCarlow and Surrounding Country W. Harvey. Green 401 \n\nThe "Mound of the Kings" \' G. F. Sargent. Landells 402 \n\nCarlow Castle G. F. Sargent. Bastin 403 \n\nMilford \xe2\x80\x94 Mount Leinster and Blackstairs in the Distance W. Harvey. Bastin 404 \n\nMap of Cork , 405 \n\nQueen\'s College, Cork W. H. Gibson. Meeder\xe2\x80\x94 Chubb. . 405 \n\nCork Harbor W. Willes. Green 406 \n\nCrosshaven Sargent 407 \n\nHaulbowline and Spike Island M. A. Williams... 408 \n\nThe Depot on Rocky Islands Lady Deane. Landells 409 \n\n\n\nxiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\nNAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGE \n\nFishing Boats ofE Haulbowline J- O. Brierly. Landells 410 \n\nEast Feny 4" \n\n" Cove," Queenstown F. W. Hulme. Dalziel 412 \n\nLough Mahon 4^3 \n\nRound Tower at Cloyne 4^4 \n\nCloyne Cathedral 4I5 \n\nThe Mathew Tower 4i6 \n\nViews at Cork ; \n\nSunday\'s Well 1 \n\nFather Mathew Statue r F. B. Schell. Smith 417 \n\nNorth Wall, from the Lee \' \n\nFather Mathew Temperance Medal Sly 418 \n\nThe Cork Arms. Landells 419 \n\nPatrick\'s Bridge and Camden Quay, from Merchant\'s Quay Filmer 420 \n\nThe Mardyke F B. Schell. Smith 421 \n\nPortal of the Old Cathedral H. Hill. Landells 422 \n\nTomb in the Cemetery F. G. Sargent. Evans 423 \n\nScene in the Cemetery F. G. Sargent. Evans 424 \n\nCathedral and Interior F. B. Schell. Sharp 425 \n\nJames Barry\'s Birthplace T. C. Croker 426 \n\nFrom the Road to Cork F. W. Hulme. G. Dalziel 42S \n\nMacroom Castle W. H. Gibson. Harley 429 \n\nShandon Steeple Dalziel 432 \n\nMyrtle Grove ; Residence of Sir Walter Raleigh, Youghal F. B. Schell. Clement 433 \n\nCromlech at Castle Mary T. C. Croker. Landells 434 \n\nOld Signal Tower at Youghal W. WiUes. Sly 435 \n\nRaleigh\'s House \xe2\x80\x94 Front View 436 \n\nCollegiate Church Ruins, Youghal F. B. Schell. Varley 437 \n\nRaleigh\'s Yew Arbor W. Willes. Jackson 43S \n\nHie Jacet Thomas Fleming H. Hill. Landells 439 \n\nKilcrea Friary J- Noblett. Landells 440 \n\nCarrig-a-Droid Castle \' W. Willes. Sly 442 \n\nKinsale Harbor W. Willes. Evans 443 \n\nShip-Pool Castle W. Willes. Sly 444 \n\nDowndaniel Castle W- Willes. Jackson 444 \n\nGrave of Gerald Griffin Frank Bellew. Meeder\xe2\x80\x94 Chubb ... 445 \n\nNorthwest View of Blarney Castle G. Gibson. Harley 447 \n\nBlarney Castle W. H. Gibson. G. F. Smith 449 \n\nViews at and near Blarney Castle : \n\nKissing the Blarney Stone \\ \n\nBlarney Castle, from over the water h F. B. Schell. Schelling 453 \n\nAt St. Arms \' \n\nMonanimy Castle Armstrong 454 \n\nTomb of De Barry W. Willes. Evans 455 \n\nMallow Castle 45^ \n\nKilcolman Castle \'W. H. Gibson. Smithwick\xe2\x80\x94 French 457 \n\nThe Pass of Keim-an-eigh A. NichoU. Landells 45S \n\nGougane Barra 459 \n\nThe Green Little Island, Gougane Barra A. Nicholl. Landells 460 \n\nView at Glengarifl W. H. Gibson. Varley 461 \n\nChurch at Glengariff \'. \xe2\x96\xa0 - W. H. Gibson. Varley 461 \n\nLough Ine \xe2\x80\xa2 \xe2\x80\xa2 \xe2\x80\xa2 W. Willes. Landells 462 \n\nCrookhaven Harbor Dalziel 463 \n\nCrookhaven, looking inland W. Willes. Green 464 \n\nDunanore Castle, Cape Clear W. Willes. Green 464 \n\nAbbey Ruins, Inisherkin W. Willes. Landells 465 \n\nBantry Bay \xe2\x80\xa2 \xe2\x80\xa2 A. Nicholl. Landells 465 \n\nEntrance to Bantry, from Lord Bantry\'s, Swan Lake Dalziel 466 \n\nThe Harbor of Berehaven F. G. Sargent. Green 466 \n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\n\n\nNAME, ARTIST, ENGRAVER, , PAGE \n\nThe House of Rocks A, NichoU, Landells , , , 467 \n\nAt Glengariff W. H. Gibson. G. F, Smith 46S \n\nCromwell\'s Bridge, Glengariff F, B, Schell, Varley 469 \n\nFrom Glengariff to Killarney 470 \n\nMap of Kings County 471 \n\nGarry Castle G. F. Sargent. Gilks 471 \n\nClonmacnoise Cross and Ruins A. Nicholl. Evans 472 \n\nMap of Armagh , 473 \n\nArmagh Proctor 473 \n\nInterior of the Old Cathedral before its Restoration H. MacManus. Wakefield 474 \n\nCharlemont Fort H. MacManus. Jackson 475 \n\nMap of Roscommon 477 \n\nAthlone Castle 477 \n\nKilcomodon Hill F. W, Fairholt. Mason 47S \n\nMap of Queens County 479 \n\nRock of Dun-a-Mase Lady Chatterton, Walmsley 479 \n\nCanal Fly-Boat G. DuNoyer, Gray 4S0 \n\nMap of Fermanagh 4S i \n\nLough Erne J. Franklin. Dudley 481 \n\nMonea Castle J. Franklin. Miss Cook 483 \n\nTully Castle G. F. Sargent. Kirchner 484 \n\nRound Tower and Church on Devenish J. Franklin. Miss M, A. Williams 485 \n\nSculpture on Round Tower, North side G. F. Sargent. Evans 486 \n\nMap of Leitrim . : 487 \n\nMap of Monaghan 488 \n\nLough between Monaghan and Cavan H. MacManus, Jackson 4SS \n\nMap of Louth 489 \n\nKing John\'s Castle, Carlingsford A, Nicholl. Mason 489 \n\nCastle Roche T. B, Burgess. Jackson 490 \n\nKing James\' Quarters before the Boyne G. DuNoyer. Evans 491 \n\nKing William\'s Quarters before the Boyne G. DuNoyer. Miss Cook 491 \n\nCromwell\'s Fort H. Gastineau. Nicholls 492 \n\nSt, Lawrence Gate .\xe2\x80\xa2 493 \n\nCrypt at Mellifont Abbey A. Nicholl. Wakefield 494 \n\nBaptistry, Mellifont G. F. Sargent. Gilks 494 \n\nCross of Muredach W. F. Wakeman. Hanlon 495 \n\nRuins at Monasterboice A. Nicholl. Gilks 496 \n\nMap of We.xford 497 \n\nFerry Carrick on the Slaney A. Nicholl, T. Williams 497 \n\nPromontory of Bag-an-Bun John Lynn. Green 49S \n\nThe Saltee Islands John Lynn, Green 498 \n\nRuins of Bannow Abbey \xe2\x96\xa0 G. F. Sargent. Green 499 \n\nTintern Abbey John Lynch. Bastin 499 \n\nClonmines A. Nicholl, Evans 500 \n\nThe Lake at Johnstown A. Nicholl. Jackson. 500 \n\nEnniscorthy After Creswick. Walmsley 501 \n\nDunbrody Abbey, West 502 \n\nRemains of Selsker Abbey, adjoining the old Fortifications 503 \n\nRathmacnee Castle G. F. Sargent, Evans 504 \n\nBargy Castle A. Nicholl. T. Williams 504 \n\nSelsker Abbey. G. F. Sargent. Green 505 \n\nSt. Eden\'s Monument A. Nicholl. Sly 506 \n\nAncient Font at Ferns A. Nicholl. Sly 506 \n\nAugustinian Abbey Ruins, Ferns A. Nicholl. Wakefield 507 \n\nFerns Castle A. Nicholl. Wakefield 50S \n\nMap of Sligo 509 \n\nSligo Abbey\xe2\x80\x94Cloisters After W. H. Bartlett. R. S. Bross 509 \n\nSligo Abbey\xe2\x80\x94 Nave and Choir After W. H. Bartlett. R. S. Bross 511 \n\nTown Hall, Sligo 5 12 \n\n\n\nxvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\nNAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGE- \n\nMap of Donegal 5I3- \n\nDonegal Castle 513 \n\nBundoran G. F. Sargent. Whimper 516 \n\nGrianan of Aileach \xe2\x80\x94 Exterior Bross 517 \n\nGrianan\xe2\x80\x94 Bird\'s-eye View Bross 517 \n\nCastle of Myler Magrath, overlooking Lough Erne G. F. Sargent. Miss Clint 518 \n\nDonegal Castle, from below J. H. Burgess. Landells 519 \n\nMap of Cavan 520 \n\nOld Mill G. F. Sargent.\' Evans 520. \n\nMap of Waterford 521 \n\nCromlech at Knockeen 521 \n\nUp the Blackwater \xe2\x80\x94 Rincrew H. Hill. Sly 522\' \n\nUp the Blackwater \xe2\x80\x94 Strancally 523 \n\nUp the Blackwater \xe2\x80\x94 Knockmeledown in the Distance Armstrong 524 \n\nMount Melleray 525 \n\nMount Melleray Chapel 52& \n\nWeir at Lismore W. Evans. Green 527 \n\nOn the way to the Suir 528 \n\nSt. Declan\'s Well Lady Deane. Evans 529 \n\nRound Tower at Ardmore G. F. Sargent. Gilks 529 \n\nCoumshinaun J. Egan. Bastin 530 \n\nTubber Grieve G. F. Sargent. Landells 531 \n\nThe Castle of Kin-Corr G. F. Sargent. Sly 532 \n\nChurch Ruins at Faithlegg \xe2\x96\xa0. G. F. Sargent. Landells 533 \n\nDunmore Pier C. N. Bolton. Bastin 534 \n\nDruid Altar near Dunmore C. N. Bolton. Sly 534 \n\nMap of Tyrone 535 \n\nCastle Caulfield J. H. Burgess. Evans 535 \n\nSt. Patrick\'s Chair.\' Bross 536 \n\nMap of Kilkenny 537 \n\nRuins at Kells C. Heaviside 537 \n\nSt. Catharine\'s Abbey J. Egan. Evans 539 \n\nTower and Cross at Kilree J. Egan. Bastin 540 \n\nKells Abbey \xe2\x80\x94 General View J. Egan. Landells 540 \n\nJerpoint, from the river After Bartlett 54^ \n\nJerpoint Abbey, South J. Egan. Wakefield 542 \n\nInterior View of Jerpoipt Abby J. Egan. Walmsley 543 \n\nShee\'s House, in which the Confederate Parliament Avas held J. Egan. Evans 544 \n\nThe Black Abbey J. Egan. Delamotte 544 \n\nChair of St. Kiernan J. Egan. Evans 54S \n\nSt. Canice\'s Cathedral J. Egan. Evans 545 \n\nThe Well of St. Canice J. Egan. Gilks 54& \n\nThe Butt\'s Cross J. Egan. Bastin 547 \n\nThe Franciscan Friary 548 \n\nRound Tower at Tulloherin J. Egan. Evans .\' 549 \n\nWoodstock Demesne and Bridge G. F. Sargent. T. Williams 550 \n\nLodge School at Woodstock G. F. Sargent. Miss Williams. ... 550 \n\nMap of Limerick 55 1 \n\nCity of Limerick 55i \n\nDruidical Remains \xe2\x80\x94 Cromlech at Altoir J. Windele. Landells 552 \n\nDruidical Remains J. Windele. Landells 552 \n\nDruidical Temple J. Windele. Gilks 552 \n\nKing John\'s Castle, Limerick 553 \n\nCathedral of St. Mary J. H. Mulcahy. Wakefield \xe2\x96\xa0. . . 554 \n\nSt. Mungret\'s Priory J. Humphreys. Landells 554 \n\nTreaty Stone . 555 \n\nCarrig-o-Gunnel 556 \n\nHome of Gerald Griffin T. C. Croker. Miss Williams 556 \n\nAugustinian Abbey, Adare W. H. Gibson. G. F. Smith 557 \n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xvii \n\nNAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. PAGE \n\nShannid Castle and Rath J. Windele. Green 558 \n\nBlack Castle at Lough Gur T. C. Croker. Walmsley 558 \n\nNew Church at Lough Gur J. Windele. Gilks 559 \n\nThe Mass Rock. . .i T. C. Croker. T. Williams 560 \n\nRound Tower and Ruins at Croom J. Windele. Landells 560 \n\nAskeaton Abbey W. H. Gibson. Morse 561 \n\nChurch at Killmallock T. C. Croker. Jackson 562 \n\nDominican Friary T. S. Prout. Landells 563 \n\nTomb of William Smith O\'Brien 564 \n\nMap of Kildare 565 \n\nCarbery Castle J. Filmer 565 \n\nRound Tower and Cross at Kildare 566 \n\nCathedral of Kildare 567 \n\nAncient Castle of the Geraldines 568 \n\nCarton, Seat of the Duke of Leinster 569 \n\nWhite\'s Castle and Athy Bridge A. Nicholl. Bastin 571 \n\nSalmon Leap, Leixlip G. F. Sargent. Whimper 572 \n\nMap of Londonderry 5 73 \n\nLondonderry 573 \n\nSalmon Leap, Coleraine 575 \n\nGate of Derry H. Gastineau. Evans 577 \n\nWalker\'s Monument H. Gastineau. Evans 577 \n\nPennyburn Mill H. Gastineau. Evans 578 \n\nMap of Clare 579 \n\nCoast at Kilkee After Bartlett. J. H. Kubler 579 \n\nCliffs at Moher J. O. Davidson 581 \n\nChapel of St. Camin W. F. Wakeman. Evans 582 \n\nNatural Bridges at Ross After Bartlett. Bross 583 \n\nInchiquin Castle Roberts 584 \n\nLion\'s Head Rock . . J. O. Davidson. R. Sclielling 585 \n\nQuin Abbey 586 \n\nCratloe Castle W. F. Wakeman. Evans 587 \n\nInniscattery \xe2\x80\x94 Round Tower and Ruins \' 588 \n\nSt. Senanus\' Oratory 588 \n\nMap of Down 589 \n\nGrey Abbey, Interior 589 \n\nDownpatrick Cathedral J. H. Burgess. Evans 590 \n\nRuins at Knockbreda Church A. Nicholl. Smith 590 \n\nRemains at Moville Abbey A. Nicholl. Bastin 591 \n\nGrey Abbey J. H. Burgess. Evans 591 \n\nRuined Arch, Grey Abbey 592 \n\nKillclief Castle Cammeyer 592 \n\nSt. Colman\'s Cathedral, Dromore 593 \n\nArdglass \xe2\x80\x94 Tower Cammeyer 594 \n\nArdglass \xe2\x80\x94 Tower Cammeyer 594 \n\nDundrum Castle .\' J. H. Burgess. Jackson 595 \n\nBridge, ToUymore Park A. Nicholl. Landells 595 \n\nTomb of John Mitchel 50 \n\nPulpit from which Mitchel\'s father preached 597 \n\nNarrow Water Castle J- H. Burgess. Bastin 598 \n\nNewry River T. Gilks 599 \n\nDonoughmore Church and Graveyard \xe2\x96\xa0 600 \n\nMap of Tipperary 602 \n\nRock and Ruins of Cashel W. F. Wakeman. Jackson 603 \n\nSt. Mary\'s Church, Clonmel G. DuNoyer. Delamotte 603 \n\nSt. Patrick\'s Well J- Egan. Green 603 \n\nCarrick-on-Suir T. Heaviside 604 \n\nCahir Castle G. DuNoyer. Landells 603 \n\nTurret of Cahir Castle ....... G. DuNoyer. Evans 605 \n\n\n\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. \n\n\n\nNAME. ARTIST. ENGRAVER. P.\\GE \n\nCahir Castle, from Southeast Heaviside 606 \n\nTubrid Church \xe2\x80\x94 Grave of Geoffrey Keating G. DuNoyer. Sly 607 \n\nGolden Bridge W. F. Wakeman. Walmsley 607 \n\nTowers on the Rock J. S. Prout. Mason 607 \n\nAthassel Abbey W. F. AVakeman. Landells 608 \n\nEntrance to Athassel G. F. Sargent. T. Gilks 60S \n\nEntrance to Cormac\'s Chapel J. S. Prout. Mason 609 \n\nCormac\'s Chapel After Bartlett. Bross 6og \n\nRock of Cashel, distant view, southeast J. S. Prout. A. J. Mason 609 \n\nCormac\'s Chapel, Interior , After Bartlett. Bross \'. . . 610 \n\nTomb of Miler Magrath.. J. S. Prout. J. Walmsley 611 \n\nHore Abbey W. F. Wakeman. Sly 612 \n\nHore Abbey, Interior , W. F. Wakeman. Mason 612 \n\nHoly Cross Abbey After Bartlett 613 \n\nHoly Cross, Interior \xe2\x96\xa0 614 \n\nMonk\'s Rest \xe2\x80\x94 Holy Cross J". Egan. Evans 614 \n\nStalactite Curtain, Mitchelstown Cave A. Nicholl. Bastin 615 \n\nChamber in Middle Cave, Mitchelstown A. Nicholl. Green 615 \n\nEdward\'s Bed \xe2\x80\x94 Cromlech on Galtee More T. C. Croker. Sly 616 \n\n\n\nINTRODUCTION. \n\n\n\n\nS^ROM the earliest period geographers and historians have directed \nattention to Ireland, not less for commercial success and advantages \nof position than for the fertility of the soil and the salubrity of her \nclimate. From Tacitus and Ptolemy, in the first and second century \nof Christianity,\'\'\' to Orosius in the fifth, Venerable Bede in the eighth, \nGiraldus Cambrensis in the twelfth, and Edmund Spenser in the \nsixteenth, we have allusions to the sea-port characteristics, the cli- \nmate, and the scenery of " the very ancient isle." f \n\nIsidore, following Orosius, states that Ireland was inferior in size to Britain, \nbut, from its situation, of greater fertility ; and Bede says " Ireland is much \nsuperior to Britain, both in the salubrity and serenity of the atmosphere." Gi- \nraldus Cambrensis questions the statement of Bede as to serenity, but with little \nreason, as he almost immediately proceeds to illustrate the fact by stating that \n" Ireland, lying at equal distances between the cold of Iceland and the heat of \nSpain, with its temperature moderated from these opposite quarters, the country \nis happily favored both in having a temperate climate and a wholesome air." \n\nFollowing the Anglo-Norman invaders, Gerald Barry, better known as Gi- \nraldus Cambrensis (of Wales), accompanied Prince (afterwards king) John in the \ncapacity of secretary to Ireland in ii85, and his misrepresentations of the char- \nacter, manners, and customs of the Irish people have been a fruitful source of \n\n\n\n* Even before Tacitus, who speaks of the harbors of Ireland being more frequented than those of Britain, the phi- \nlosopher Artemidorus, who flourished one hundred years before Christianity, speaks of " eleven illustrious cities in \nIreland." \n\nt Ogygia \xe2\x80\x94 very ancient isle \xe2\x80\x94 alluded to by Plutarch, Life of Solon. \n\nI xix \n\n\n\nXX INTRODUCTION. \n\ncomment and correction on the part of subsequent historians and antiquarians. \nA churchman of education, travel, ability, and unweening ostentation, and also a \nvoluminous author, the desire to display his extensive knowledge and observation \nfound utterance in much \xe2\x80\x94 outside of political and personal misrepresentation of the \npeople \xe2\x80\x94 of a really interesting character. To the natural beauties of Ireland he \nmade suggestive reference. " Separated," he says, " from the rest of the known \nworld, not only by its situation, but by the objects out of the ordinary course of \nnature contained in it, Ireland seems to be nature\'s especial repository, where she \nstores up her most remarkable and precious treasures." * Some of these objects \nhe points out : " Here you may see standing waters on the tops of the mountains, \nfor pools and lakes are found on the summits of lofty and steep hills. There are, \nhowever, in some places, very beautiful plains, though of limited extent in compari- \nson with the woods." f Again he speaks of the fascinating inland waters and the \nsecurely romantic places of retreat and refuge of the native chiefs : " This island \nis also especially remarkable for a great number of beautiful lakes, abounding in \nfish, and surpassing in size those of any other countries I have visited. These lakes \nencompass some slightly elevated spots, most delightfully situated,, virhich for the \nsake of security, and because they are inaccessible except by boats, the lords of \nthe soil appropriate as their places of refuge and seats of residence, where they \nraise their harvests." | \n\nEdmund Spenser received from Queen Elizabeth over three thousand acres \nof land in Cork, confiscated from the Earl of Desmond. He was, consequently, \neagerly in favor of a free use of the sword, and the exercise of unsparing violence \nin the treatment of the natives. He had a natural cupidity also, which was in no- \nwise abated by the desire of permanent establishment in a country which he could \nthus describe : " And sure it is yet a more beautiful and sweet country as any is \nunder heaven, being stored throughout with many goodly rivers, replenished with \nall sorts of fish abundantly, sprinkled with many sweet islands and goodly lakes, \nlike little inland seas, that will carry even ships upon their waters ; adorned with \ngoodly woods even fit for building houses and ships, so commodiously, as that if \nsome princes in the world had them, they would soon hope to be lord of all the \nseas, and ere long of all the world ; also full of very good ports and havens open- \n\n* Topography of Ireland, chap. ii. \\Ibid., chap. iv. % Chap. vii. \n\n\n\nINTRODUCTION. xxi \n\ning upon England, inviting us to come unto them to see what excellent commodi- \nties that country can afford ; besides the soyle it selfe most fertile, fit to yield all \nkind of fruit that shall be committed thereunto. And lastly, the heavens most \nmilde and temperate, though somewhat more moist than the parts towards the \neast." \n\nThe allusion to the extent of the lakes surpassing anything elsewhere seen by \nGiraldus had especial reference, among others, to Lough Neagh, the. legend of \nwhich, as related by him, suggested, more than six centuries later, the verse \nin Moore\'s famous melody commencing \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n"On Lough Neagh \'s banks, as the fisherman strays." \n\nNeagh is the largest lake in Great Britain, indeed it is one of the largest \nin Europe, being only exceeded in extent by Geneva in Switzerland, Ladoga \nin Russia, and Vener in Sweden. Other loughs (or lakes) as Corrib, Mask, \nConn, Erne, Derg, Ree, Killarney \xe2\x80\x94 some of them little less in extent than Lough \nNeagh \xe2\x80\x94 embrace, as Cambrensis says, numerous beautiful islands, and are more \ncelebrated for various degrees of wild and enchanting scenery, and for human \ninterest associated with historical and romantic events of the past. Killarney, \nwhich is a synonym all over the world for the beautiful and poetical in lake scene- \nry, needs no particular mention in this place, but others less known are deemed \nof equal, if not more attractive grandeur. Mr. Henry David Inglis, the persis- \ntent and observant Scottish traveler, with all the glories of Europe, from Switzer- \nland to the Isles of Achill, and from Norway and Sweden to the Sierra Moreno, \nin his mind\'s eye, confidently asserted " that the Lower Lough Erne, take it all \nin all, was the most beautiful lake in the three kingdoms ; and but for the majestic \nAlpine outline that bounds the horizon on the upper part of Lake Leman, Lake \nLeman itself could not contend in beauty with this little-visited lake in the County \nof Fermanagh." In sombre " dim religious " contrast to Erne is another Ulster lake, \nDerg, famous as the locality of " Saint Patrick\'s Purgatory," and the most widely \nknown of the Irish lakes during the mediaeval era. Loughs Conn, Mask, and Cor- \nrib, in Connaught, are splendid sheets of water, presenting combinations of grand \nmountain and island scenery. Corrib is next in extent to Lough Neagh, and in \nscenery is accounted one of the finest in Europe. It was the opinion of the late \n\n\n\nxxii INTRODUCTION. \n\nRev. Caesar Otway, author of some excellent " Sketches of Travel in Ireland," \nthat " if such a lake were in Scotland, or indeed anywhere else in Europe, it would \nbe covered with steamboats and yachts, and there would be hotels and accommo- \ndations on its shores ; and a country as rich, if not richer, than Cumberland would \nbe opened out and planted and built upon." It presents a noble area of water, ex- \ntending in a sinuous manner a distance of nearly thirty miles, studded with islands, \nsome fertile, others rugged with rocks; " some embattled with the ruins of an old \nfortress ; some made holy by the crumbling remains of a still older church." These \nislands contain about one thousand acres of arable land. Next in extent is the \ngreat Lough Derg, an expansion of the Shannon, with bold and elevated banks, \nand "screened with magnificent mountain scenery" toward the south. Other crag- \nencircled gems of water there are, like Killarney, of much less extent, such as \nGougane Barra, in the County Cork, and Glendalough, Luggelaw, Dan, and \nBray, in the County Wicklow, which are of exceeding beauty, consecrated to lay \nand legend, and of great fame. \n\nAs Ireland has the largest lakes, it also has the largest river in the united \nkingdoms \xe2\x80\x94 the historic Shannon \xe2\x80\x94 ^which, rising in the wild district of Glangavelin \nin the County Cavan, embosoms itself in Lough Allen, from the confines of \nwhich, between the mountains of Sleevenerrin and Dowbally, it comes forth \nrefreshed, expands into several lakes, whirls and foams by Castle-Connell in a \nseries of rapids \xe2\x80\x94 with which the Swiss Geisbach cannot compare for grandeur and \neffect \xe2\x80\x94 drains seven thousand square miles in eleven counties of the four prov- \ninces, swallows numerous picturesque tributaries, reflects on its noble current, \nbesides a number of places dear to memory and renown, the towns and towers \nof Athlone and Limerick. It is the largest island river on the globe, and con- \nveys a larger body of water to the sea than any continental river of the same \nextent. It was known to Ptolemy as Semes, to Orosius as Sccna, and to Spenser, \nin the sixteenth century, as Shenan. Fifteen miles below Limerick it deepens \nand widens, becomes an immense arm of the sea, and joins the Atlantic sixty \nmiles distant. \' Many rivers there are whose chroniclers and "sweet recorders," \nthe bards, dispute the right of the Shannon to the sovereignty of queen river \nof Ireland ; and their claims are sustained by everj^ possible variety of scenic \nbeauty, antiquarian lore, valorous action, pathetic history, and captivating legend \n\n\n\nINTRODUCTION. xxiii \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 by everything, in fact, save extent. Spenser, in his episode of the Marriage of \nthe Thames and Medway \'^\' introduces the principal rivers of Ireland : \n\n" Ne thence the Irish rivers absent were ; \nSince no less famous than the rest they be." \n\nThree of the principal rivers of the south, which unite about five miles above \nthe city of Waterford, he happily describes as the "Three Renowmed Brethren." \n\n"The first the gentle Suir, that, making way \nBy sweet Clonmel, adorns rich Waterford ; \nThe next, the stubborn Nore, whose waters gray \nBy fair Kilkenny and Rosseponte board ; \nThe third, the goodly Barrow, which doth hoard \nGreat heaps of salmons in his deep bosom : \nAll which, long sundred, do at last accord \nTo join in one, ere to the sea they come ; \nSo, flowing all from one, all one at last become." \n\nThere also was \n\n"The spreading Lee, that, like an island fair \nEncloseth Cork with his divided flood," \n\nbut which is more widely celebrated by Father Francis Mahony\'s \n\n" Bells of Shandon \nThat sound so grand on \nThe pleasant waters of the river Lee," \n\nand send echoes over land and ocean which thrill the heart of every native of \n"the beautiful city " to the ends of the earth. In his poem of "The Rivers," \nThomas Davis recalls the memories and wonders of the northern and southern \nBlack waters : \n\n" There\'s a far-famed Blackwater that runs to Lough Neagh, \nThere\'s a fairer Blackwater that runs to the sea." \n\nThe one he calls "the glory of Ulster," with its heroic and patriotic reminiscences \nof Benburb and Owen Roe O\'Neill, the shrines of Armagh and the church of Dun- \ngannon ; and the other, with its gorgeous turrets, scholastic echoes of saintly Lis- \nmore, splendid mountains, rich woodlands, trees and flowers, he rapturously hails \n\n* The Faerie Queene, book iv., canto xi. \n\n\n\nxxiv INTRODUCTION. \n\nas the \'\xe2\x80\xa2 beauty of Munster," the Eden of Ireland ! In Ulster " the fishy fruitful \nBann " forms the only outlet of Lough Neagh, which receives eight rivers. The \nvalley of the Lagan, between Belfast and Lisburn, presents a panorama of beauty, \ncultivation, and activity, amid a variety of hill, dale, wood, and water that is not \nsurpassed by any tract of the same extent in the British empire. The other \nimportant northern river, the Foyle, a notable and noble stream, formed by the \njunction of the Finn and Mourne, flows by the foot of the city of Londonderry, \nwhich is picturesquely seated on a conical hill rising about one hundred and \ntwenty feet above high-water mark. Leinster is rich with rivers and streams, \nbesides those alluded to in Spenser\'s verse, of vital historical interest, perpetual \nscenic splendor and romantic association, broken by dazzling cascades and water- \nfalls, and reunited by lovely lakes. Principal of these are the Boyne, the Slaney, \nthe Liffey, the Avoca, the Vartry, the Bray, and the Dodder, all except the first \nand last rising in Wicklow, and adding life and beauty to some of the most de- \nlightful vales and glens in the world. \n\nIn mountains Ireland maintains the supremacy accorded to her for possession \nof the Shannon and Loughs Neagh, Corrib, and Erne. There is no mountain in \nEngland that lifts its head so high into the clouds as Carran-Tual, one of MacGil- \nlicuddy\'s Reeks, in Kerry. The highest peak in England is that of Scawfell, 3,229 \nfeet. Mangerton was formerly esteemed the highest in Ireland, but surveys have \ndetermined that Carran-Tual is 658 feet higher. The Reeks rise almost perpendi- \ncularly to a height of 3,414 feet, overshadowing the waters of Killarney, surrounded \nby other mountains of scarcely less lofty character, their upper portions clothed \nwith purple heath, while rich foliage, among which the arbutus is prominent, luxu- \nriantly covers the lake shore. The mountain ranges are principally confined to \nthe coast counties of Kerry, Galway, Mayo, Donegal, Down, and Wicklow ; but \nKippure, at the border of Dublin and Wicklow, and at the head of the Dodder \nriver, rises to an altitude of 2,473 feet, about the height of the loftiest peak of \nthe Alleghany range in Pennsylvania, nearly nine hundred feet higher than \nthe range of the Blue Mountains, running in the north-east portion of the same \nState, which is broken through at the New Jersey line by the Water Gap of the \nDelaware, and half as high again as the Highlands of the Hudson. Lugnaquilla, \nthe highest of the Wicklow range, is 3,039 feet. Mount Leinster, dividing \n\n\n\nINTRODUCTION. xxv \n\nWexford and Carlow, is 2,610 feet. In Waterford, the Knockmeledown Summits \non the northwestern border, and the Commeraghs are noble features ; and in \nTipperary, Sleive-na-man and Keeper mountains, with the Galtees overlooking- \nboth ranges and reaching a height of 3,000 feet, form a splendid group, surround- \ning a country of exceeding agricultural fruitfulness, embracing the famous Golden \nVale. From east to west Cork is picturesquely mountainous ; the Mourne \nmountains, in Down, and the great Donegal range are famous for the boldness \nand grandeur of their scenery ; while in Mayo and Galway the mountain aspect \nof Ireland takes perhaps its wildest and most overpowering character \xe2\x80\x94 inspired \nby the Connemara region in the latter county, and the range of which Nephin \nand Croagh Patrick are the principal in the former. A recent authority says \nthere are over fifty mountains in Ireland, each exceeding 2,000 feet in height. \n\nSurrounding all this vast accumulation of beautiful scenery, mountains, lakes, \nrivers, and glens, within an area of 32,524 square mules, far less than the size of \nthe State of South Carolina, is the everlasting sea. With the exception of the \neast, the whole coast faces the Atlantic. The stupendous force with which the \nwaves rush toward the coast is broken by a large number of islands \xe2\x80\x94 there are \none hundred and ninety-six in all \xe2\x80\x94 which stand forth, as Mr. Walker says, "like \noutlying fortresses, defending the sacred island with their rocky cliffs, generally \nsublinje in their altitude, and singularly picturesque in the fantastic shapes into \nwhich they have been worn." A glance at the map will show how the coast \nhas been sapped and worn away into inlets, estuaries, and bays ; giving it a most \nremarkably indented appearance. Owing to this circumstance the coast line of \nthe little island is immense, extending 2,300 miles. The ocean views all round \nthe coast are truly sublime ; the waves in their incessant restlessness taking \nmajestic, wild, and beautiful forms that lift the gazer into wordlessness at their \neternal variety. It is difficult to express the thoughts and sensations that inspire \nor oppress us \xe2\x80\x94 we can only unite with the words of the royal psalmist, " Wonder- \nful are the surges of the sea! " and, standing on \n\n" the high hills that vizor \' \n\nThy wreck-making shore," \n\nfeel as the poet felt when he wrote his famous apostrophe : \n\n\n\nxxvi INTRODUCTION. \n\n" How humbling to one with a heart and a soul, \nTo look on thy greatness, and list to its roll ; \nTo think how that heart in cold ashes shall be, \nWhile the voice of eternity rises from thee ! \n\n" Yes ! where are the cities of Thebes and of Tyre ? \nSwept from the nations like sparks from the fire ! \nThe glory of Athens, the splendor of Rome ? \nDissolved \xe2\x80\x94 and forever \xe2\x80\x94 like dew in thy foam. \n\n" But thou art almighty \xe2\x80\x94 eternal \xe2\x80\x94 sublime \xe2\x80\x94 \nUnweakened \xe2\x80\x94 unwasted \xe2\x80\x94 twin-brother of Time ! \nFleets, tempests nor nations thy glory can bow; \nAs the stars first beheld thee, still chainless art thou." * , \n\nIt i.s claimed that Ireland is pre-eminently a land of ruins. Certainly no- \ncountry of the same extent contains so numerous a collection of remains which \nincontrovertibly illustrate a past of excessive human thought and action ; of deep- \nseated devotion and religious observance, both in pagan and Christian times ; of \ntribal, feudal, political, polemical, and national conflicts and emergencies ; of heroic \neffort, and, however directed, of almost superhuman energy. It is suggested, and \nwith truth, that considering the sparsity of the population before the era of the \n"Reformation," reaching back into the cryptic dimness of antiquity, so. far as \nhistory can enlighten us, it is astonishing to find so many places distinguished by \nmonuments of the remote past \xe2\x80\x94 cromlechs, caves, cairns, pillars, raths, forts, towers, \nsculptured crosses, churches, castles. All these imply the existence of a race \nof people more or less skilled in the art of building, and being so far elevated \nabove the barbaric state as to build for futurity, to erect monuments and sculptured \nstones which posterity might admire and read. They imply combination, govern- \nment, intelligence, reverence for the past, and a desire to perpetuate the memory \nof great deeds to coming ages. \n\nIn an earnest plea to the Irish clergy and gentlemen of education and taste \nfor the zealous preservation of every remnant of antiquity, as evidence of national \ncharacter, and of the dignified exercise of intellect and justice from the most \nremote period, Thomas Davis asks, " Are there no Brehon\'s chairs on her hills to- \n\n* John .\\ugustus Shea, Poems, 1S46. \n\n\n\nINTRODUCTION. xxvii \n\ntell more clearly than Vallancey or Davies how justice was administered here ? \nDo not you meet the Druid\'s altar, and the Guebre\'s tower in every barony \nalmost, and the Ogham stones in many a sequestered spot? " The question thus \nput in justification of the plea is answered by every traveler and tourist, and their \nobservations may be summed up in that of one of the most recent writers,* when \nhe says, " Go where we will, not only over the great plains, but amidst the \nremotest glens, and mountain gorges, and rocky cliffs, and wooded islands, we find \nthose marvelous traces of the haunts of mighty men, of gigantic power, of divine \n\xe2\x96\xa0worship, and heroic deeds." Indeed the vast number of these monuments has at \nonce incited the wonder of the thoughtful, and made their materials available to \nthe building necessities of some districts, thus contributing to their still further \ndemolition at the hands of the careless and the ignorant. Davis had seen pigs \nhoused in the piled friezes of a broken church, cows stabled in the palaces of the \nDesmonds, corn threshed on the floors of abbeys, and sheep tenanting the royal \ncorridors of Aileach. Worse than that: he wrote, " The peasant lugs down a pillar \nfor his sty, the farmer for his gate, the priest for his chapel, the minister for his \nglebe." \n\nIn the same key Mr. Wakeman,* referring to the remains of the Paganf \n\xe2\x80\xa2era, says, they are found in considerable numbers, particularly in the remote \nparts of the island, where the population was small and the absence of " mod- \nern improvement " suffered them to stand unmolested, save by the hand of \ntime. \n\nThus many of the ruins were ruined. Sir William Wilde in his catalogue of \nthe Royal Irish Academy indicates in a brief but comprehensive manner both the \ncharacter and purposes of the most primitive monuments, many of which are \nelaborately sculptured with artistic skill ; and of the people whose feelings, taste, \nand workmanship they represent. It may be only necessary to say in advance, \nthat while history and tradition seem to have lost mention of the fact, the testi- \nmony of the tombs, from which cinerary urns, containing ashes and burned bones \nhave been exhumed in every part of Ireland, shows that the custom of cremation \nand urn-burial was a very general, though not the only, mode of sepulture in \n\n* Mr. John A. Walker, author of a very useful and intelligent Hand-book of Ireland. \nf Anhaolo^a Hibertiica. A Hand-book of Irish Antiquities, Pagan and Christian. \n\n\n\nxxviii INTRODUCTION. \n\nvery ancient Ireland.* " The small square stone grave," says Wilde, " contain- \ning a single cinerary urn, placed beneath the surface of the soil, and so frequentV \nexposed by the spade ; the collection of urns, apparently marking the site of an \nancient cemetery, possibly that of a battle-field ; the grassy mound, and the massive- \ncromlech, breaking the level outline of the landscape ; the large stone circle, or the \noblong inclosure, popularly termed a giant\'s grave ; the huge, temple-like barrow, \nwith its enveloping mound of stones or earth (the western type of the true Orien- \ntal pyramid), the simple rude pillar-stone, the Ogham-inscribed monolith, or the \nsculptured cross ; the wayside monument, the horizontal grave-stone, the stone \ncoffin, the modern vault or stately mausoleum, the carved recumbent figure in the \ndecorated abbey, as well as the tablet in the modern church \xe2\x80\x94 all afford abundant \nexamples of the tise of stone materials in sepulchral and funeral rites, and evince \nthe piety and reverence with which the dead were regarded in Ireland from the \nearliest time." This veneration for the dead is a characteristic of old races, an. \nancient custom of Catholic nations, amounting to a passion among Celtic peo- \nples, and justifies Frederick Ozanam in saying that it is the mark of a healthful, \nmoral race, clinging tenderly to its heritage of family pride and tradition. The \npractical illustration of this respectful sentiment is strikingly noticeable among the \nIrish and French. Among that other old branch of the human family, the Basque \npeople, a neglected grave is seldom seen. Villages rival each other in care and \ndecoration of their grave-yards, and "no one enters the church without having \nfirst knelt upon the tomb of his ancestors to pray." \n\nTeeming and crowded as Ireland is with every variety of natural scenery^ \nwonderful and romantic, strikingly bold or sweetly pastoral, and raimented as she \nis with a cheerful and eye-consoling verdure of emerald, still is she undoubtedly a \nland of ruins. And the ruins are so blended with all that is beautiful, or grand, or \nexquisite in mountain or lake localities, that the mind \xe2\x80\x94 in presence of the glorious \ntriumphs of nature, yearly renewed in freshness and beauty, and the relentless \ntriumphs of time over the labors of man, yearly falling to decay \xe2\x80\x94 is compelled into \na contemplative mood. In no other country, perhaps, is the intelligent traveler so \nfrequently called on to make a sort of sombre remonstrance with himself \xe2\x80\x94 restrain- \n\n* See interesting chapter on Monuments, Graves, etc., in The Oiigin and History of Irish A\'aincs of Places, by P. W- \nJoyce, A.M., M.R.I. A. ; also Rev. CKsar Otvvay\'s Sketches in.Erris and Tyrawley, etc. \n\n\n\nINTRODUCTION. xxix \n\nino- the ecstatic delight and astonishment inspired by the natural beauties under the \nsense of desolation conjured up by the haggard presence of some crumbling \nreminder of former violence, splendor, or devotion. Yet these latter are of deep \nand wide interest. As history is but the labored effort of intellect and research to \nbring the past face to face with us, these actual pieces of the past possess a sig- \nnificance which the antiquarian may in some instances overestimate, but which the \nartist and historical student cannot undervalue. We cannot fling aside these old \nremnants of renown. Davis well says, "he who tramples on the past does not \ncreate a future. The same ignorant and vagabond spirit which made him a \ndestructive, prohibits him from creating for posterity." We cannot ignore the \npast; and the past is all ruins in various stages of restoration or decay. Hence\' \nthey compel fascinating sensations and solemn inspirations ; they have their \nunwritten histories in the fancy and imagination, and fill up the skeleton forms \npresented to us by chronologers and annalists : they give an impression of reality \nto the filmy rumors and shadowy pageants of tradition. \n\nThe eloquence of ruins is eminently persuasive\' to even the most sluggish intel- \nlect. It takes us back through the centuries as naught else can, and excites us, \nby its subtle confidences and strange echoes from bygone generations, to the \ncreation of the passions, motives, and exigencies which have resulted in the all- \ncontrolling influences that surround us. The ashes, so to speak, rekindle the \nflame which had produced it. Then the meaner worldly passions shrink out of \nsight before these granite spectres of ambition and power \xe2\x80\x94 these sombre preachers \nof the insecurity of all worldly force. It is Charles Lamb who recalls to mind the \naffecting pleasure of wandering at will through the deserted halls of some fine old \nbuilding. The pleasure is in the moral elevation over the human passions of envy \nand vanity ; for, as he suggests, the traces of extinct grandeur admit of a better \npassion than envy ; and contemplations on the great and good, whom we fancy \nin succession to have been its inhabitants, weave for us illusions incompatible \nwith the bustle of modern occupancy and foolish vanities of present aristocracy. \n\nThe temperature of the climate and fertility of the soil, so early ascertained \nand recorded by the ancient writers alluded to, have done wonders in producing \nthat exceeding verdure and freshness, and fascinating beauty of effect in Irish \nscenery which have inspired not only native poets, orators, and artists, but drawn \n\n\n\nXXX INTRODUCTION. \n\nthe most eloquent appreciation and delight from all \xe2\x80\x94 French, German, English, \nScotch, and American \xe2\x80\x94 who have written on the subject from the days of Giraldus, \nor Raleigh and Spenser, to the present. While variously commenting on the \ncondition of the people, the rise or fall of trade or commercial enterprise in certain \ntowns, and the neglect or disappearance of agricultural industry in the rural dis- \ntricts ; or contrasting the brightness and poverty of the peasantry, or balancing \nthe numerous social, mercantile, political, or polemical questions of the day, all of \nthese writers unite in dwelling with respect and admiration on the natural resources \nand attractions of the land, its superior fertility^ exquisite, wild or grand scenery, \nthe extent of its ruins, the mystery of its towers, the richness of its antiquities, \nand the splendor and beauty of the streets and buildings of the capital. \n\n" Nature," says a distinguished French writer who gave extended personal atten- \ntion to the social, political, and religious aspects of Ireland some thirty years ago. \n" nature seems to have endowed Ireland with her most munificent gifts. She \nenriched her bosom {entrailles) with precious metals, and poured with a bounteous \nhand upon her rocky foundation the most fertile soil in the world. She has given \nto her maritime commerce the noblest harbors, fourteen of which have capacity to \nreceive vessels of war ; and, as if she had destined her for a grand fortune, placed \nher west of the continent, as an advanced guard, trustee of the keys of the ocean, \ncommissioned to open to European vessels the path to America ; and to present to \nAmerican vessels the first European port. Having thus richly endowed her, she \nhas also labored to as richly embellish her. She has designed her mountains in \nevery variety of beaut)-, interspersed her valleys with meadows and lakes, and \nhaving covered all in a brilliant robe of verdure, desired that she be called, in the \nlanguage of the poet, Green Erin ! the beautiful emerald ! " \'^ \n\nThe atmosphere of Ireland is peculiarly adapted not only to produce the \nwealth of emerald vegetation which is so characteristic of the land, but, under \nfavorable circumstances, to create those varying and sympathetic cloud-effects \nwhich seem to identify themselves with, and add so much to every form and \naspect of landscape. A writer in an English publication, depicting some of the \nfeatures of Irish scenery, makes suggestive reference to this fact, as well as to \nthe concomitant pleasures of color and perfume resulting from the same cause. \n\n* L\' Irlanik, SociaU, Politique ct Keli^icuse. Par Guslave de Beaumont. Palis, 1839. Vol. i., pp. iSS, 1S9. \n\n\n\nINTRODUCTION. xxxi \n\nAlluding to the absence of what may be called the statuesque in nature, he thinks \nit is compensated for by the infinite softness and tenderness, and by a sweetness \nalmost pathetic in the beauty of an Irish landscape. Each feature, however \nuncultivated, is soft ; each hue, however rich, is free from glare or harshness. \n\n" The atmosphere," he says, " which in Switzerland so often causes every \ngiant mountain to look like a great theatric painted scene, cut, as if in cardboard, \nagainst the blue sky, in Ireland, on the contrary, makes every object, from the \nbarren rocks of Connemara to the rich valleys of Kildare, equally soft and \nshadowy. Nothing seems defiant or sharp after a hundred yards\' distance, just \nas nothing looks fresh or gaudy after a few months\' exposure. The mountains \nthree miles off seem vaguely grand. The tower built a century ago looks older \nthan the pyramids. Another peculiarity of Ireland is that the broad and distant \nlines of the greater part of its scenery, the lignes larges with which it is sketched \nby nature, and the absence of minor accidents of ground of which we have \nspoken, all result in giving to the scenery of the sky a greater prominence than \nit usually possesses elsewhere \xe2\x80\x94 very often a greater prominence to the eye of \nthe beholder than any of the landscape below. And what a sky it is ! Surely \nthe loveliest in its rare moments of sunlight, the mournfullest in its many hours \n\xe2\x96\xa0of gloom, of all the heavens that overreach the world. Irish skies do not glare \n\xe2\x80\xa2and dazzle, they do not laugh out scornfully in derision of our care-laden hearts, \nnor frown and threaten, big with storms and thunder. They smile rather than \nlaugh on the brightest summer\'s morning, and on the dreary winter\'s eve they \ngather their long gray mantles, and hang motionless and mourning over the \n\xe2\x96\xa0dead world, while the wind wails in bursts of grief, rising and dropping again like \nthe death keen heard across a lonely moor. Irish skies are soft and beautiful ; \nand Irish trees, though somewhat monotonous in tone and form, are wonderfully \nluxuriant in foliage, each leaf a large one of its kind; and Irish herbage is a thrice- \npiled carpet, which the richest palace of the East cannot match for splendor. \nAnd besides the hues of the dark green trees and the emerald grass, nature, as \nif jealous to supply the color to earth which she denies to the sky, has dressed \nthe hillsides with imperial robes of purple heather and golden gorse \xe2\x80\x94 whole \nmiles of Tyrian purple, whole acres of golden fringe. To stand among the \nWicklow Mountains in August, is to behold a display of pure color, not due to \n\n\n\nxxxii INTRODUCTION. \n\nthe brilliancy of the atmosphere, but to the actual hues of the objects themselves^ \nsuch as it has never been our fortune to see elsewhere, even amid the emerald \nfields and yellow sands of Egypt. Lastly, there is another peculiarity of Ireland, \nwhich we suspect, has some share in securing for the country many pleasing, \nthough half-conscious memories. Ireland (remote, of course, from the towns \nand villages) is the land par excellence of natural perfumes. Doubtless, the \nmoisture of the climate tends to make the odors of vegetation both more pun- \ngent and also more apt to extend themselves in the atmosphere. A hayfield, or \nbeanfield, or a lime-tree in blossom, are thus perceptible in Ireland Avhere distance \nwould quite efface their sweetness elsewhere. Often we have known the haw- \nthorn in a large park so to impregnate the air, that an open window admitted a \ngust of perfume as from an orange orchard in Italy. To drive along a common \ncountry road in Ireland on a fine day is to pass through a range of delicious \nodors, varying according to the month ; violets, or hawthorn, or clover, or the \nrich, luscious gorse. Even the meadow-sweet in the ditch is often sufficient to \nperfume the whole road for half a mile together."""\' \n\nTo reproduce the colors which add such an inexpressible charm to the verdure \nand scenery of Ireland is impossible in a work of this nature ; but the outlines \nof the chief features of famous and picturesque localities or objects delineated \nwith spirit, fidelity, and an artistic appreciation of nature in the disposition of light \nand shade, convey ideas of grandeur, beauty, and effect which are everywhere, \nat this day, accepted as invaluable promoters of intellectual and artistic culture. \nSuch portraiture of the physical or material world extends our knowledge by mak- \ning us conversant, in an agreeable and attractive manner, with the forms and \ncharacteristics of the most remarkable historical monuments or exquisite works of \nnature all over the face of the habitable earth. The reproduction. In an intelligi- \nble form, of any place where man has dwelt, or where man has penetrated. Is \ninteresting to man ; much more everything or anything relating to those older \nseats of life which may be deemed not only the cradles of humanity but the nurs- \neries of human energy ; where the races halted for centuries, and In the strug- \ngles within circumscribed boundaries developed mind and muscle, thews of brain \nand body, confidence In the earth and faith in Heaven, which gave them devo- \n\n\n\nINTRODUCTION. xxxiii \n\ntion and courage to go forth and conquer unknown regions, create new nations \nand peoples, and make practical constitutions out of the crotchets of bygone \nphilosophers. \n\nIreland is one of those cradles and nurseries, and the memories associated \nwith her, not less than the intrinsic beauty of her scenery and the interest attach- \nino- to her archseological remains and historical monuments, impress us with a \nconfident belief that the work now presented will be widely acceptable. \n\nPicturesque Ireland is designed to embrace and present all the best and most \nstriking features of preceding works on the subject \xe2\x80\x94 reproductions of the pictures \nand drawings of eminent artists who have for the last fifty years given such a \nnotable impetus to the study of Irish scenery, topography, and antiquities \xe2\x80\x94 with \nnumerous other views from recent photographs and drawings, especially en- \ngraved for the work. \n\nJOHN SAVAGE. \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\n\nThe border land of \nthe counties of Cork and \nKerry, from Glengariff to \nthe lake district of Kil- \nlarney, embraces a grand \nmountainous tract, partly \non the coast, where the \n\nView on the B lack-water from the Bridge. hand of Nature seems tO \n\nhave thrown every form of grandeur, beauty, and romance into a disorder at once \nstartling and picturesque. The continuous surprises and general effect baffle the \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nefforts of the pen, while they astonish and delight the eye of even the inost \nskilled and eloquent tourist. One whose felicitous pen has won the admiration \nof his time has declared that the scenes of romantic beauty to be found in the \ndeep solitudes of the stupendous cliffs and lofty mountains of the district, the suc- \ncession of glowing and magnificent pictures formed by the combination of rush- \ning torrent, placid lake, broad sea, and rocky shores, exceed the power of de- \nscription. Passing from Cork into the " Kingdom of Kerry," through a dark \ntunnel of two hundred yards cut through the rocks, one experiences somewhat \nthe effect produced by darkening a hall preparatory to the unfolding of sofne \nsplendid panorama before his eyes. \n\nEmerging from the darkness, we are confronted with a scene of wild and stern \nmagnificence, on the very brink of an Alpine precipice, the road descending in \nspiral windings, as if Nature, having repented of building a mountain so difficult \nof ascent, wound round it a spiral staircase for the accommodation of man. Gaz- \ning from the dizzy height \xe2\x80\x94 now adown the beetling cliff, now along the tortuous \nroad, and away into the far-off valley \xe2\x80\x94 the eye rests upon the formidable Kinmare \nRiver, " the wide embayed Mayre," as Spenser calls it, diminished to a tiny line \nof white in the distance. Nothing can exceed the wild grandeur of the prospect, \nwhich extends for miles and miles. The road, of which there is a view almost the \nwhole way to Kenmare, is admirably constructed, kept in constant repair, and is by \ncommon consent classed as one of the best in the United Kingdoms. The de- \nscent to Kenmare is gradual, and commands a succession of bold and magnificent \n\nviews. Approaching the town, the noble suspen- \nsion bridge, the only one of any extent in Ireland, \ngracefully spanning the sound, commands attention. \nIt is four hundred and ten feet in length, and is \nnamed after the Marquis of Lansdowne, who, as \nlord of the soil, bore half its cost. Kenmare is a \nsmall town, but admirably situated at the head of the \nbay. In the vicinity are some beautiful lakes, and \na visit to the bay where the Blackwater enters it \nwill repay the trouble. Near the confluence the \nriver is spanned by a lofty bridge of two arches \nwhich crosses a chasm of great depth. \n\nThe scenery in this locality is highly picturesque, \nthe river rushing through a deep ravine, the sides of which are varied by woods \nand rocks. Some twelve miles west on the coast is one of the most remarkable \n\n\n\n\nBlackwater Bridge. \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\nof the Cyclopean remains in Ireland, the Cathavr or fort of Staigue. It consists \nof a circular wall of uncemented stones, about eighteen feet in height, and twelve \nin thickness, inclosing an area of eighty-eight yards in diameter. Upon the in- \nternal face of the wall are regular flights of steps leading to the top platform, or \nparapet. The doorway is composed of large unhewn stones, and is covered by \na horizontal lintel. A ditch of twenty-six feet, now nearly filled, defended the \nwall upon the exterior.* A mile west of Kenmare are the ruins of Dunkerron, \nthe ancient seat of the O\'Sullivan More, and there are several druidical remains, \ncircles, dallans,f and cromlechs \nin the neighborhood. \n\nThe road to Killarney {Kill- \nairne, the Church of the Sloes) \nascends to the rocky defile of \nWindy Gap, when the scenery \ntegins to wear a more majes- \ntic aspect than any yet seen ; \nfurther on, Looscanagh, a lake \nsleeping under the shadow of \nlofty mountains, is passed ; and \nsoon we reach that one point \nwhich is ever memorable in the \njourney \xe2\x80\x94 like Inspiration Point over the Valley of the Yosemite \xe2\x80\x94 that at which \nthe lakes in all their resplendent beauty first burst iipon the sight. Those who \nenter by any other than the Kenmare road can form but a faint conception \nof the sensation inspired by the magnificence of this first view they have \nmissed. From an eminence near the police station, a picturesque castle in min- \niature, the upper lake in all its splendor lies revealed far, far below, with the \nmiddle and lower lakes in the distance. Crossing Galway\'s Bridge, within sound \nof Derrycunnihy Cascade, we pass through the Tunnel under a declivity ofCrom- \naglan Mountain, and traversing two sides, the west and north, of the base of \nTore Mountain, reach Tore Cascade. Entering the path to the fall it leads up a \ngravel walk so lined with trees and shrubs \xe2\x80\x94 larch, on one side, and holly, birch, \noak, alder, and arbutus on the other, and judiciously curved that the cascade is \n\n\n\n\nThe Tunnel. \n\n\n\n* Wakeman\'s Archteologia Flibcrnica, p. loo. A model of this fort is in the Royal Dublin Society. \n\nf Dallans, pillar-stones variously used as objects of worship, monuments, boundaries, etc. Cromlechs, composed \nof three or more stones forming an inclosure, over which a large stone is laid. They were for sepulchral and sacri- \nficial uses. \n\n\n\n8 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nconcealed until the spectator is immediately under and opposite to it. The water, \nAvhich is supplied from Mangerton and the Devil\'s Punch Bowl, is forced in a \nsheet of foam over a broken wall of rock some seventy feet high, forming sev- \n\n\n\n\n\neral cascades in \nits progress. On \' \'~s- \neach side the pre \ncipitous rocks art ^=i^^ \ncovered with lux- \'^ \'^- \n\nuriant trees and ferns, which afford \na fine contrast to the mist and \nspray in which the cascade breaks \nbefore it resumes its course through \nthe deep ra\\ine to mingle with the \nwaters of the middle lake. \n\nThe small illustration gives a \nthe cascade, while the large one presents it in its \nspecial and more brilliant aspect. Art has been \neffectively called to the aid of Nature here. The op- \nposite hill to the cascade has been elegantly planted, \nand a circuitous path leads to a well-selected eminence, from which a view of the \nmiddle and lower lakes with the wooded peninsula between can be obtained (p. 20). \nClose over the cascade on the left appears Tore Mountain ; beyond the middle \nlake, Glena ; in the immediate foreeround is the demesne and mansion of Muck- \n\n\n\nofeneral view \n\n\n\n\nRocks on the Kenmare Road. \n\n\n\nKERR Y. \n\n\n\n\nTore Cascade. \n\n\n\nross ; and in \nthe distance \nto the right \nthe faint out- \nhne of the \nDingle Hills. \nBlack\'s \nGuide well \nadvises the \n\\ isitor never \nto omit this \nview from \nTore Cas- \ncade, as it \nis certainly \none of the \nfinest in Ire- \nland. 1 \nResuming \nthe road, it \nis but a short \ndistance \nthrough the \nnoble Muck- \nr o s s d e - \nmesne and \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nby the village of Cloghreen to the ruins of Muck- \n1/ ^ -> \xc2\xab=.V ross Abbey. Though neither in extent nor ar- \n\nchitecture equaling, much less rivaling many mo- \nnastic ruins in Ireland, its seclusion and the beauty \nof its surroundings produce an effect perhaps equal \nto anything in the -country. Situated on a slight \neminence overhanging the eastern extension of \nthe lower lake, in one of the finest parts of the \nMuckross demesne, embosomed in the shade ot \nlofty and venerable ash, oak, elm, yew, and syca- \nmore trees \xe2\x80\x94 festooned with trailing plants, and \nTore Cascade. garlanded with ivy of the darkest and most luxu- \n\nriant foliage \xe2\x80\x94 it is, as Willis said, " More beautiful in its loneliness and decay \nthan it could have been in its pristine state of neatness and perfection." \n\nIt is indeed a splendid relic of antiquity ; and a more picturesque spot, " where \nerring man might hope to rest," it would be difficult to conceive. The original \nname was the Abbey of Irelough, \'the building at the lake.\' It was founded by the \nMac Carthys, Princes of Desmond, according to the annals of the Four Masters, \nin 1340, on the site of an ecclesiastical structure which existed here from a remote \nera, and which, according to a record in the library \nof Trinity College, Dublin, was destroyed by fire in \n1 192. The present ruins are the remains of the Mon- \nastery and Church of Franciscan Friars, which were re- \npaired in 1602, and subsequently, according to a Latin \ninscription on a stone let into the north wall of the choir, \nin 1626. The building consists principally of two parts, \nthe abbey and the church ; the latter being divided into \nthree compartments, the choir, the nave, and the south \ntransept, from the midst of which rises, on four high \nand slender pointed arches, a square tower thickly draped \nwith ivy. The entrance is through a richly decorated doorwa)\' of the pointed \nstyle, luxuriantly overgrown with ivy, and directly opposite is the large eastern \nwindow. The length of the church is about one hundred feet, by twenty-four m \nwidth, and the length of the transept thirty-six feet. The interior is filled with \ntombs, the greater number being but slightly elevated above the ground. \nIn the center of the choir is a large tomb of modern construction, covering \nthe vault in which were interred the Mac Carthys More of the olden times; \n\n\n\n\n77/6 LhaiutI, Mm/ 1 Si \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\nand more recently the O\'Donoghues \nMore of the Glens. The slab which \nformerly covered the vault is close by, \nlying on the earth without inscription, \nbut bearing the arms of the Earl of \nClancare. On the former tomb the \nfollowing lines are carved : \n\n" What more could Homer\'s most illustrious verse, \nOr pompous TuUy\'s stately prose rehearse, \nThan what this monumental stone contains, \nIn death\'s embrace, Mac Carthy Mor\'s remains ? \nHence, reader, learn the sad and certain fate \nThat waits on man, spares not the good and great ; \n\n\n\n\nMttckross, Eastern Window. \n\n\n\nAnd while this venerable marble calls \nThy patriot tear, perhaps, that trickling falls. \nAnd bids thy thoughts to other days return. \nAnd with the spark of Erin\'s glory burn ; \nWhile to her fame most grateful tributes flow. \nOh ! ere you turn, one warmer drop bestow ! \nIf Erin\'s chiefs deserve thy generous tear. \nHeir of their worth, O\'Donoghue lies here." \n\n\n\nThanks to Mr. Henry Arthur \nHerbert, M.P., and late Chief \nSecretary for Ireland, the pro- \nprietor, whose taste and vigil- \nance in the care-taking of these \ninteresting remains is entitled \nto gratitude, the abbey is in a \nfair state of preservation. He \nhas repaired the foundation and \nparajDets in such a way as not \nFire-place at Miickross. to impair the gerteral effect of \n\nantiquity. The building is unroofed, and dank grass and weeds encumber the \nupper portion ; but the ground floor being arched over, and containing the \nkitchen, refectory, infirmary, cellars, and other chambers, is comparatively pro- \ntected from the weather. The capacious fire-place of the kitchen and refectory \nis sufficiently suggestive to indicate that the good fathers recognized the Chris- \n\n\n\n\n12 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\ntian duty of hospitality ; and perhaps also the truth of the axiom put into the \nmouth of the jovial " Friar of orders gray," that \n\n"Who leads a good life, is sure to live well." \n\nBut in those days the abbey was the hostel, house of entertainment, and succor \nfor all wayfarers \xe2\x80\x94 whether peers or peasants \xe2\x80\x94 for, \n\n" Whoever passed, be he baron or squire, \nWas free to call at the abbey and stay ; \nNor guerdon or gift for his lodging pay, \nAlthough he tarried a week with its holy quire." * \n\nThe recess of this fire-place was taken possession of more than a century and a \nquarter ago by a pilgrim named John Drake, who came "no one knew whence," \nand after a harmless and mysterious life of eleven years there, disappeared as \nsuddenly. He braved all weathers in his chimney recess with a blanket and his \nordinary clothes ; never begged, nor would receive more than a single penny as a \ngratuity ; paid for his fish and potatoes when he purchased them ; never ate out of \nhis \' home ; \' had a half-penny and a prayer to bestow on those more needy than \nhimself ; rarely if ever went to chapel ; but daily prayed at particular spots in the \nabbey-yard, and cultivated his garden. No one knew the cause of his seclusion. \nHe spoke as a penitent of the need of prayer, and one of his maxims was that \n" those who were harmless had a right to be happy." Mrs. Hall adds a feature of \nromance to the mystery by stating "as \'twas told to her," that about ten years \nafter Drake\'s disappearance, a lady of "foreign tongue," with two servants "who \ncould not speak English," came and remained at Killarney for many weeks. Hav- \ning inquired about the pilgrim, she used to weep floods of tears over his couch \nevery day, prayed where he had prayed, and distributed abundant alms to all who \nhad been kind to him. She would answer no questions, and after much prayer \nand evident penance departed unknown. \n\nAs may be supposed, adds Mrs. Hall, Drake\'s singular choice of residence has \ngiven rise to abundant stories, and the mention of his name to any of the guides \nor boatmen will at once \xe2\x80\xa2 produce a volume of the marvelous. When the man \nmade his dwelling in this lonely and awful place \xe2\x80\x94 the companion of the dead, living \namong the frightful and half-decayed relics of mortality \xe2\x80\x94 it is said his hands were \nsmall and delicate, his air and manner tranquil and dignified, and his "tongue" was \nnot of the south. He appeared to be under forty years of age, and made no \n\n* The Monks of Kilkrca. \n\n\n\n\nSCENES AT INNISFAL-LEN AND MUCKROSS. \n\n\n\n14 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\neffort to gain a reputation for sanctity. The belief among the peasantr}\' is that he \nhad committed some crime which demanded desperate atonement, and that his \npenance was to be made within the holy yet haunted walls of Muckross Abbey. \n\nThe abbey presents a singularly picturesque appearance from almost every point \nof view, but it is generally conceded that it is seen to most advantage from the \nsouth and west, within the precincts of the grove of trees by which it is sur- \nrounded. Here are \n\n" \xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\x94 deep empty tombs \n\n\n\nAnd dells and mouldering shrines, with old decay \nRustic and green, and wide embowering shades \nShot from the crooked clefts of nodding towers." \n\nThe cloister constitutes the finest part of the Muckross ruins. It is the best \nexecuted portion of the fabric, and remains in a state of comparative perfection. \nIt consists of a quadrangle of forty-six feet, encompassed by a vaulted walk si.x \nfeet wide. The a\'rcade thus formed embraces twenty-two arches. The pillars and \narches are formed of a bluish and pale-red marble, producing a gray effect. The \npillars are finished exactly alike, but the arches vary both in form and number on \nthe sides. At two of the contiguous sides they are of the sharp-pointed or Gothic \nform, and are ten in number ; while the corresponding sides contain twelve semi- \ncircular arches. How this capricious variet}^ says Isaac Weld, so frequently to be \nobserved in the religious buildings of those infant days of art and taste, was first \nintroduced, we can now only conjecture. At two of the opposite corners of the \ncloister there are stairs leading to the cells over the vaulted walk, and to the chief \napartments of the abbey. The latter are in a very dilapidated state, but several \nof the cells remain entire ; and under the little grates by which they were lighted \none may still see the broad, flat stones upon which the monks offered up their \norisons, worn and polished by the pressure of many a weary knee. Around the \nsummit of the building there was a safe walk, defended by an embattled parapet.* \n\nThe solemn effect of the ecclesiastical remains is greatly heightened by a vener- \nable and magnificent yew-tree, whicli rises like a stately column in the inclosure \nwith a circumference of thirteen feet, and branches extending over and covering in \nthe entire quadrangle. It is believed to be coeval with the building, and it is not \nunlikely, as the yew is of slow growth, and lives to an immense age. Such is the \ngloominess diffused over the cloister by its thick and dusky foliage that \xe2\x80\x94 as Weld \nmentions \xe2\x80\x94 the bat is frequently observed flitting through the vaulted arches at \n\n\n\n* Illustrations of the Scenery of Killarney and the Surrounding Country, by Isaac Weld, Esq., M.R.I.A., etc. \n\n\n\nKERRY. 15 \n\nnoon-day. The vaults and winding passages of the abbey are still more gloomy \nthan the cloister. \n\n"There, through thick walls, oblique the broken light \nFrom narrow loop-holes quivers to the sight." \n\nLovers of the picturesque will agree that " this obscurity adds much to the effect \nof the ruin, and, combined with the stillness and solitude of deep retirement, the \nfragments of monumental grandeur, and the spectacle of mouldering mortality, \nforms an associa\'don highly calculated to inspire the imagination. The mind be- \ncomes abstracted from the world. The shade of every waving branch is converted \nto a spectre, and the echoes of the footsteps to the whispering of ideal inhabitants. \nThe startled senses distrust their own perception, and the delusion can scarcely be \ndispelled by returning to the cheerful regions of light and life." \n\nAlthough it is a matter of speculation as to where the monks who lived and died \nat Muckross were interred, the people point out a rudely constructed vault on the \nexterior of the church, immediately under the eastern window, as the resting-place \nof the holy men who succeeded each other for centuries in religious service here. \nIt is known as " The Tomb of the Monks." \n\nContemplating these solemn scenes, and impressed with their suggestiveness, our \nthoughts easily drift in unison with the retrospective reflections of the artistic Weld \nunder the effect of the same locality. " A ruined church is a common object, \nwhich, independent of the picturesque beauty it may possess, excites little interest; \nbut the sight of a monastery carries us back to distant ages, and gives rise to a \ntrain of reflection which every mind of sensibility feels a pleasure in indulging. \nWe remember that these places were asylums of men who, voluntarily renouncing \nthe seducing pleasure of the world, devoted themselves to the services of charity \nand religion. Hither the aged peasants from the neighboring hamlets flocked in \nthe hours of sickness and of affliction, to obtain the advice and consolation of the \nghostly fathers, to crave the boon of charity, or implore the blessing of heaven on \nthe labors of their toiling offspring. Hither, during the ages of violence and \nrapine, those who by inclination were disposed to retirement and to ease could \nwithdraw in safety from the dangers of contending factions and devote themselves \nto the calm and tranquil pursuits of literature. These were the sacred retreats of \nlearning, where the germs of knowledge were preserved till a more genial season \nbade them spring forth and flourish in open day." * \n\n* Weld, p. 24. \n\n\n\ni6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nThe picturesque obscurity which stillness and solitude lend to the ruins of \nMuckross even in the daytime, from the umbrageous gloom of the surroundings, \nhas been noticed by all writers on the localit)\' ; but the moonlight adds a charm \n\n\n\n\npeculiarly its own, \nwhich completes all \nthat might \xe2\x80\x94 if anything \n\xe2\x80\x94 be wanting to thoroughly enchain the \nsentiment and awaken the fancy of the ar- \ntistic or poetical beholder. To Muckross, \nas to Melrose, the moon is magical. \n\nFor ages the southern part of the ground outside ot the church \nused as a cemetery by the people ; and there are man)\' tombs worthy \n\n\n\n\'i/iii/ lOis b\\ Alooiuulit \n\n\n\nhas been \nof inspec- \n\n\n\nKERR Y. \n\n\n\n17 \n\n\n\n\nTomb of the Monks. \n\n\n\ntion as showing the ages at which those whose dust is below went to rest. These \nrecords show that quite a number were over a century old, and that one Peter \n\nO\'Dowd lived one hundred and four- \nteen years in this transitory world. \n\nMuckross, or Cloghreen, as the vil- \nlage is called, is selected by many as \n" headquarters," from which " to do " \nthe lake district ; and it has many rec- \nommendations, being in the immediate \nvicinity of some notable scenes. Others \nchoose the town of Killarney,two miles \nfurther north on the same road, where \nthere are several hotels. The principal \nbuildings in Killarney are a magnificent \nRoman Catholic Cathedral designed by Pugin, and " worthy of any city in the \n\xe2\x96\xa0empire," the railway station, and the mansion of Lord Kenmare, whose demesne \nruns up to the town. The circuit of the lakes may be made and many splendid \nviews of all the leading points attained before going on the water, by coming to \nKillarney from the Kenmare road as we have done, and going from Killarney \nby the Gap of Dunloe to the head of the upper lake. \n\nLeaving Killarney and passing the Victoria Hotel, we turn off from the main \nroad to note the venerable remains at Aghadoe, \nsituated on rising ground, and consisting of the rem- \nnants of a fortress, a church, and a tower. The first \nnamed is sometimes called the " Bishop\'s Chair," or \npulpit. The church is a low oblong building consist- \ning of two distinct chapels of unequal antiquity, lying \neast and west of each other ; that to the east is in \nthe pointed style, dated 1 1 58, and dedicated to the \nHoly Trinity ; the other, or western chapel, is of an \nearlier period, between the sixth and twelfth cen- \nturies, in the Romanesque style, and was under the \npatronage of St. Finian. The whole of the church \nis about eighty feet in length, by twenty in breadth. \nThe ornamented doorway, though much injured, still retains traces of grace and \nteauty. \n\nThe Round Tower is proved to be of still greater antiquity by the superiority \n\n\n\n\nDoorway at Aghadoe. \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nof its masonry. The stones are large, regular, and well dressed ; the greater por- \ntion has been taken away to supply headstones in the adjacent grave-yard. The \nremains are about fifteen feet high, fifty-two feet in circumference, and the \nwalls three and a half feet thick. Crossing the bridge over the river Laune^ \nwhich carries off the surplus water from the lower lake, we find, in a field near \nby, the cave of Dunloe, which was discovered in 1838. As some laborers were \nmaking a ditch they broke into a subterranean chamber of a circular form, the \nwalls of which were uncemented stones inclining inward, with a roof also, of long \ntransverse stones. The discovery brought to light a chamber of the very highest \nantiquity, as the stones in the roof were covered with writing in the Ogham char- \nacter, which is stated to have been used in Ireland long before the Christian era ; \n\nand is to the Irish antiquary \nwhat " the Runes are in the \nnorth, and the arroAv-headed \nor wedge character in Baby- \nlonia and Persepolis." About \na mile west is Dunloe Castle, \na stronghold of O\'Sullivan \nMore, which stands on a bold \npromontory overlooking the \nLaune. It stood a siege by \nthe Cromwellian forces ; was \nfor 3^ears a ruin, but was re- \npaired and fitted up as a \nmodern residence by the fa- \nther of the present proprietor. \nThe view from the casde is exquisite, and a row down the river esteemed not \nthe least interesting episode of an excursion. At the cottage of Kate Kearney \xe2\x80\x94 \nwho is represented by the granddaughter of Lady Morgan\'s mountain heroine, \n\n"Oh, did you not hear of Kate Kearney" \xe2\x80\x94 \n\ntourists have to forsake their cars or carriages, but hardy ponies are in waiting \nfor those who cannot " face the Gap on foot." \n\nThe Gap of Dunloe, one of the grandest wonders of this wonder-land, is a deep,, \nwild, rugged mountain-gorge, about four miles long, between the Magillicuddy \nReeks on the west, and the Purple Mountains and Toomies on the east. The \nmountains present the appearance of having been driven asunder by some mighty \n\n\n\n\nKate Kearney\'s Cottage. \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\n19 \n\n\n\nconvulsion of nature. The cliffs rise from the bottom in many places to a great \nheight, presenting many wild and striking combinations, and exhibiting vast masses \nof rock, heaved up and scattered about in the wildest disorder. On the brow of \nthe cliff, on the northern entrance to the right, immense masses of rock, suspended \nin their lofty bed, overhang the pass, and seem to threaten destruction to the ven- \nturesome wayfarer. Further in the projecting cliffs arise on either hand, impend- \ning fearfully over the narrow pathway. Nor do they always hold their threatening \nattitude, as immense fragments of rock which strew the bottom of the ravine \nsufficiently testify. As Mr. Smith* says, " Immense blocks of rock, rent from the \noverhanging masses of the precipice, and precipitated down its ruined sides, \nlie scattered about, so as to completely choke up the defile. Impending fragments \nseem starting from their shattered beds, and ready to add to the chaos below;" \nand Dr. Forbes adds, " It particularly reminds one of an Alpine valley, by the vast \naccymulation of fragments of rock, fallen from the cliffs above, which are strewed \nalong its base." \n\nA small but rapid little stream, \nthe Loe \xe2\x80\x94 whence the Gap takes its \nname \xe2\x80\x94 traverses the glen from the \nsouth, and finally runs into the river \nLaune. In its course in the defile it \nexpands into five little loughs, which \nare known as the Cummeen Thomeen \nLakes. Here and there a dwarf tree, \nor a thicket of coppice, or patches \nof golden furze or arbutus, in union \nwith the lakes, or the stream, which \nnow steals along, and anon rages \nover some jagged steep, adds not a \nlittle to the charm of the scene, by \nsomewhat softening into beauty its \nprevailing aspect of stern grandeur \nand wildness. The road, constructed often on the brink of precipices, follows the \ncourse of the stream, and in two instances it crosses by means of bridges, at Black \nLake, the second, and Black Lough, the fifth of the loughs or tarns, at which points \nthe effect is very picturesque\xe2\x80\x94 one especially, where the bridge stands at the head \nof a beautiful rapid where the torrent plunges in whitening foam over its rocky bed. \n\n* Killamey and the Sitrrounding Scenery. \n\n\n\n\nRapids in the Gap of Dujiloe. \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\n\nGap of Dunloe. \n\nThe admiration of the visitor continues to increase until he arrives at that part \nwhere the pass becomes so contracted as to scarcely afford room between the \ninclosing precipices for the narrow pathway. This is right under the Purple \nMountain, near Auger Lough, called by the peasantry, doubtless by way of \nderisive contrast, or perhaps in sportive recognition of the human energy and \nperseverance which surmounted the difficulties of cutting a passage through this \nonce inaccessible pass, "The Turnpike," or more commonly "The Pike" \xe2\x80\x94 a \nspot where nature seems to have reached her bleakest climax. On the right, \nthe monarch of Irish mountains, Carran Tual, uplifts his dusky head ; and on \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTlu PiU \n\n\n\nthe left, Toomies and the Pur- \nple Mountain rest in everlasting \nshadow. The echoes, which are \nstartlingly fine all through the \nGap, are here in the greatest \nperfection. Saluting the moun- \ntains with a small cannon and \nthe martial blare of a trumpet, \nthe answering reverberations are \nlike the thunders of mighty ar- \nmies in conflict. " The shot in \nitself is insignificant, but the ef- \nfect, produced is absolutely sub- \nlime. Shots, peals of sound; \nthunderbolts, leap, burst, crash \nfrom out the surrounding hills. Dells, cliffs, rocks, and peaks pour forth a torrent \nof rolling rage, as if the signal had let loose the angry spirits of the mountains." \n\nThe road continues to the top of the Gap, and issuing thence from the depress- \ning solitude and the uncontrollable influences to melancholy which the deep gloom \nof the place inspire, a scene the most beautiful the imagination can paint bursts daz- \nzlingly upon the sight, the effect no doubt greatly heightened by the contrast with \nthat through which the eye has passed. A sudden turn on the narrow path, and, \nas if by magic, on the east appears the Gearhameen River as it falls into the \nupper lake, near Lord Brandon\'s cottage, and the lake itself embosomed amidst \nglorious woods and mountains ; while to the west, or right, the Coom-Dhuv, or \nBlack Valley, with its river and cataract. \n\nThe Black Valley is a deep, dark moorland glen extending some five miles \nwestward from the head of the upper lake, in which distance it rises only one \nhundred and forty-seven feet. The darkness of the valley is not caused by any \nexcess of vegetation, which is sparing and stunted, but by the height of the hills \nand the dissolved peaty matter in the water. The traveler Inglis regards it as \nmore striking than Dunloe, for few could look into its wild recess and seemingly \nboundless craggy moorland without a feeling- of awe akin to horror. Describing \nthe valley, Mr. Windele says, " on our right lies the deep, broad, desolate glen \nof Coom-Dhuv ; an amphitheater buried at the base, and hemmed in by the vast \nmasses of the mountain, whose rugged sides are marked by the course of the de- \nscending streams. At the western extremity of the valley, gloomily reposes \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\n23 \n\n\n\namidst silence and shadows one of those lakes, or rather circular basins of dark \nstill water, Loch-an-bric-dearg , \' the lake of the char or red trout.\' Other lesser \nlakes dot the surface of the moor, and uniting form at the side opposite the termi- \nnation of the Gap, a waterfall of considerable height, enjoying the advantage, not \ncommon to other falls in Ireland, of being plentifully supplied with water at every \nseason of the year." A first view of the Coom-Dhuv on a hot hazy day is said to \nbe truly magical, reminding one of the dioramic representations of the blasted \nheath in Macbeth. Amid the surrounding blackness the water throws back the \nlight it receives by reflection from the clouds, giving the idea of being lighted from \nbelow. " Had there been at the bottom," says the German traveler Kohl, "among \nthe rugged masses of black rock, __ \n\nsome smoke and flame instead of \nwater, we might have imagined we \nwere looking into the entrance to the \ninfernal regions." \n\nIf we shared this idea we have \nbut to turn to the left, as before sug- \ngested, to experience a transportation \nfrom Hades to a terrestrial heaven, \nin the delightful effect of the Upper \nLake. On our way to it we pass a \nvery singular curiosity \xe2\x80\x94 the " Logan \nStone," or as it is variously called the " Balance Rock " \xe2\x80\x94 or " Rocking Stone." \nIt is situated on the side of a steep hill, is twenty-four feet in circumference ; and \nis considered a druidical relic of deep interest to the antiquarian. \n\nThe Upper Lake is but two and a half miles long, and three quarters of a mile \nwide, yet its position and surroundings have aroused the greatest delight and en- \nthusiasm of travelers ; and it is generally thought to be the finest of the lakes. \nAs Weld says, it displays much greater variety than the others, but that variety \narises from different combinations of the same wild features. Wakefield described \nthe Upper Lake as an " immense reservoir in a hollow between stupendous moun- \ntains, the rugged, rocky, and almost perpendicular sides of which may be said to \noverhang the water," whilst the whole scenery is of the most awful and extraordi- \nnary kind, such as very seldom occurs, " and on a scale of magnificence hardly to \nbe equaled anywhere else except in the wildest districts of Switzerland." Not \nless enthusiastic is a more recent writer, who says its solid grandeur strikes the \nobserver on first beholding it with feelings of awe and admiration. Perfectly \n\n\n\n\nThe Balance Rock. \n\n\n\n24 \n\n\n\nPICTURE so UE I RE LA ND. \n\n\n\ndistinct in the character of its romantic scenery from that of the Tore (Middle) and \nLower Lakes, it combines many of the softer beauties of wood and water, with all \nthe stern reality of mountain scenery, possessing in a surpassing degree every \n\n\n\n\n\nDerrycunnihy \n\nvariety of landscape that can delight the eye or gratify the imagination.* On the \nsouth are the Derrycunnihy hills, which give the name to one of the grand cascades \nof the region which is to be seen a little way up the Gal way River on the south- \neastern line of the lake. Here the torrent leaps forth from between some \nrocks high up the mountain, and having fallen a distance of over thirty feet, breaks \ninto innumerable falls, as though every rock and tree had its own jet a\'eau, and \n\n* N. P. Willis or J. Sterling Coyne, who wrote the descriptions to Bartlett\'s illustrations. \n\n\n\n\nDERRICUNIHY CASCADE. \n\n\n\n26 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nemitted a separate cascade. These gorgeous natural works, split into a thousand \nrills, again unite, and, after concentrating their forces in a deep basin excavated in \nthe rocks, once more leap forth in a mass of foam down the narrow channel, \nand are lost in the woods below. In the vicinity of Derrycunnihy Cascade an \ninlet from the lake is entered between two lofty crags. Within lies a beautiful \nsheet of water hemmed in by precipitous rocks, and overhanging trees. Behind \nthis a rapid stream rushes through a ravine, being impelled by the force of a cata- \nract concealed in a glen a short distance from the shore. Derrycunnihy is a favor- \nite and chosen place of meet for the stag-hunts, and its neighborhood frequently \nthe scene of the closing triumphs of the chase. \n\nAfter showing how an experienced person stealthily selects a deer, on the day \nprevious to the hunt, Mr. Weld continues : " Before the break of day the dogs are \nconducted up the mountain, as silently and secretly as possible, and are kept \ncoupled until some signal, commonly the firing of a small cannon, announces that \nthe party commanding the hunt has arrived in boats at the foot of the mountain; \nthen the dogs are loosed, and brought upon the track of the deer. If the business \nprevious to the signal has been silently and orderly conducted, the report of the \ncannon, the sudden shouts of the hunters on the mountain, which instantly suc- \nceed it, the opening of the dogs, and the loud and continued echoes along an ex- \ntensive region of woods and mountains produce an effect singularly grand. \n\n" The deer, upon being roused, generally endeavors to gain the summit of \nthe mountains, that he may the more readily make his escape across the open \nheath to some distant retreat. To prevent this, numbers of people are stationed \nat intervals along the heights, who by loud shouting terrify the animal, and \ndrive him toward the lake. The hunt, however^ begins to lose its interest after \nthe first burst. The ruggedness of the ground embarrasses the pursuers ; the \nscent is followed with difficulty, and often lost altogether, or only resumed \nat the end of a long interval : much confusion also arises from the emulous \nefforts of the people on the water to follow the course of the hunt, especially \nif it should take a direction toward\' the Upper Lake, when the contending \nboats are frequently entangled among the rocks and shoals of the river which \nleads to it. Those who attempt to follow the deer through the woods are rarely \ngratified with a view, and are often excluded from the grand spectacle of his \ntaking the sail, or, in other words, plunging into the lake. It is therefore gener- \nally recommended to remain in a boat. I was once- gratified by seeing the \ndeer run for nearly a mile along the shore, with the hounds pursuing him in \nfull cry. On finding himself closely pressed, he leaped boldly from a rock into \n\n\n\n\nX- ; \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\nV \n\n\n\n\nthe lake, and swam toward one of the islands ; but, terrified by the approach of \nthe boats, he returned, and once more sought safety on the main shore ; soon \nafterward, in a desperate effort to leap across a chasm between two rocks, his \nstrength failed him, and he fell exhausted to the bottom. It was most interesting \nto behold the numerous spectators who hastened to the spot \xe2\x80\x94 ladies, gentlemen, \npeasants, hunters, combined in various groups around the noble victim, as he \nlay extended in the depth of the forest. The stag, as is usual on these occa- \nsions, was preserved from death." \n\nAfloat on the bosom of the \nUpper Lake we realize the sen- ^=- \xe2\x80\x94 ^^*\'- ^ \n\nsations of an intelligent voyageur, \nwho says : " As we glided along \nthe smooth lake, enclosed by \nheaven-kissing hills, with heath- \ncovered brows, or more threat- \nening rocky precipices, relieved \nat the base by luxuriant shrubs \nwhich shade its verge, and \nstudded with islands covered \nwith myrtle and arbutus ; the \nnational melody stealing along the waters, and thrown back upon our ears by \nthe echoing rocks ; our boat\'s crew with sinewy strength and picturesque mien \ntugging swiftly at their oars, and our fair companions, with delighted eyes, the \nonly living things in sight save one strong eagle, which hovered aloft over its \ngiant rock ; and then the stillness of the air and the (I believe unwonted) \n\xe2\x80\xa2clearness of the blue canopy which covered us \xe2\x80\x94 altogether produced an effect \nsuch as I shall not attempt to delineate." \n\nThe Long Range, a water channel of more than two miles in length, con- \nnects the Upper and Middle Lakes. Rocks, woods, and picturesque openings \ncontinue and sustain the interest. About halfway through is the Eagles\' Nest, \nan inaccessible mass of rock of a pyramidal form, eleven hundred feet in height, \nrichly clothed with foliage and shrubs about its sides, and around whose bar- \nren summit the eagles build their nests and breed their young. The nests \ncan only be reached by ropes from above. The echoes at this point are world- \nfamous, and are impossible to fully describe. The firing of a gun produces rever- \nberations from mountain to mountain, of thrilling distinctness, like peals of near \nand mighty thunder. A bugle-call is repeated a dozen times from crag to \n\n\n\nThe Eaglci\' Nest. \n\n\n\n28 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nhill, sometimes low, sometimes loud, sometimes in rapid succession, sometimes \npausing as if for answer, then dying off, and yet again returning with renewed \nforce and eclat from some more distant range. " It is scarcely in the power of Ian- \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOld Weir Bridge. \n\n\n\nguage,"\' says Weld, " to convey an idea of the extraordinary effect of the echoes \nunder this clifif, whether they repeat the dulcet notes of music, or the loud, dis- \ncordant report of a cannon. Enchantment here appears to have resumed her \nreign, and those who listen are lost in amazement and delight." Under some \nsuch spell Okenden \xe2\x80\x94 who wrote in 1760, seems to have been. "We gazed," \n\n\n\nKERR Y. \n\n\n\n29 \n\n\n\n\nUnder fJie Rocks at Tore Lake. \n\n\n\nhe said, "at the wood, the rock, and the river, with ahernate hope and lear; \nand we expected, with a pleasing impatience, some ver\\^ marvelous event. \nAngels from the sky, or fairies from the mountains, or O\'Donoghoe from trie \nriver, we every moment expected to appear before us." \n\n\n\n30 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nOld Weir Bridge, near view. \n\n\n\nGliding out of this locality, where the magic of sound is so powerful, and \ndown the Range, we pass the fairy scene at the Meeting of Waters, and are at \nthe old Weir Bridge, which connects Dinis Island with the mainland, and is \nthe entrance to the Middle Lake. The descent of the rapids under the bridge \nis exciting, and needs careful management of the boat. The boatmen, however, \n\nare very skillful, and shooting the rapids \n_ \xe2\x80\x94 _ is one of the- pleasant sensations of a Kil- \n\nlarney trip, although some persons prefer \nlanding and walking round. \n\nThe Middle Lake is frequently called \nTore Lake, from the mountain which \ncasts over it a perpetually solemn shade \nand appearance ; and sometimes Muck- \nross Lake, from being bounded on the \nother (north) side by the Muckross de- \nmesne. The current from the Upper Lake divides, at Dinis Pool, flowing to \nthe right into Tore Lake, and to the left between Dinis Island and Glena, \nand joining the Lower Lake at Glena Bay. \n\nStanding near the confluence of the waters of the three lakes, Scott, after \npausing in rapt admiration, exclaimed, in the words of Coleridge, " Beautiful \nexceedingly ! " Tore, which is half as large again as the Upper Lake, partakes \nsomewhat of the joint characteristics \nof the other two lakes. The rocks \nalong its shore have been hollowed \nout into cavernous and grotesque \nforms by the action of the waters. \nIn reply to the query, " What is to \nbe said about Tore Lake?" Thack- \neray wrote, " When there, we agreed \nthat it was more beautiful than the \nlarge lake, of which it is not one- \nfourth the size ; then when we came \nback; we said, \'No ; the large lake \nis the most beautiful;\' and so, at \n\nevery point we stopped at, we determined that that particular spot was the \nprettiest in the whole lake. The fact is, and I don\'t care to own it, they are \ntoo handsome. As for a man comino- from his desk in London or Dublin, \n\n\n\n\nThe Cottage on Dinis Island. \n\n\n\n\nKERRY. 31 \n\nand seeing \' the whole lakes in a day,\' he is an ass for his pains. A child \ndoing a sum in addition might as well read the whole multiplication table, and \nfancy he had it by heart." Dinis Island is a lovely spot, and a neat and com- \nmodious cottage has been built on it by Mr. Herbert, for the gratuitous use \nof visitors. \n\nBrickeen Island seems to form a prolongation of the thickly-wooded penin- \nsula of Muckross, from which it is only separated by a narrow stream, sjaanned \nby a bridge of a single arch, through which is one of three passages to the \nLower Lake. \n\nThe Lower Lake, or Lough Lene, is five \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nmiles long, three miles wide, and contains about ^ *"^ , /, \n\nthirty-five islands, most of them richly clothed \nwith verdure, and all of them more or less \ninteresting by association with romance or \nlegend. The transition from wild and rugged \nand closely-piled scenic effects to the expansive rl|^^ \nbeauty of Lough Lene at first tends to create \na feelinjj- of disappointment; but, by degrees,, . , \xe2\x80\x9e ., \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2^ .< o Brickeen Bridge. \n\nthe wonderful loveliness of the shores, woods, \n\ncascades, islands, and ruins around unfold before the vision and leave a last- \ning impression of harmony and sweetness. There are fine views from the \neastern and western shores, but the noblest is doubtless from the northeast, or \nRoss Island, from which the grand mountains in the west and south form a \nglorious background to the placid beauty of its surface, and the poetical effect \nof its innumerable inlets, delicious nooks, and wooded bays. The mountains of \nGlena and the Toomies form an effective barrier on the west. \n\nInnisfallen Island, about twenty-three acres in extent, is nearly midway between \nthe east and west shores of the Lower Lake. It is universally hailed as the most \nbeautiful of the lake islands, and its luxuriance of vegetation and purity of ver- \ndurous color entitle it, in the opinion of many, beyond any other in the country, to \nthe pre-eminence of being the " Emerald Isle." Its appearance from the water is \nthat of a dense wood of magnificent trees and gigantic evergreens. It seems im- \npenetrable, the foliage being very close, and literally extending into the water, the \nroots in some places twisting in fantastic forms out of the lake. On approaching, \nglades and alleys appear, and on landing and penetrating its recesses, a variety of \ndelightful scenery is disclosed, diversified with rock and dell and lawn, sunny \nglade and umbrageous awning, embellished by thickets of flowering shrubs and \n\n\n\n32 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nevergreens. Here are lofty elms and hollies of unusually large growth and \ngirth, fine old oaks too ; but the ash, which attains here a remarkable magni- \ntude and luxuriance, prevails. Among the venerable trees is one at whose \nroot a legendary " Friar\'s grave " is pointed out. Vistas having been judiciously \ncut through the groves, the openings command the most varied and lovely views \nof the shimmering waters, the shores, the woody slopes, and the blue summits \nof the mountains towering above the surrounding woods. \n\nIn addition to its enchanting aspect, Innisfallen has attractions of an historical \n\ncharacter. The abbey, the ruins \nof which are scattered about the \nisland, was founded by St. Finian \nearly in the seventh centur}^ The \nsolemn tranquillity of the place \nrendered it in ancient times a \n"paradise and secure sanctuary;" \nbut the treasures " in gold and \nsilver, and richest goods of the \nwhole country" which were de- \nposited in it proved a tempta- \ntion which led to its invasion and \nviolation in 1180, when, accord- \ning to the "Annals," the O\'Don- \noghues plundered the abbey, and the MacCarthys slew many of the clergy in the \ncemetery. Near the principal ruins are others, generally believed to have been \nconnected with the abbey ; but the most interesting of the remains on the \nisland is a part of a structure of far more ancient date, covered with ivy, and \nstanding on a mass of rock near the water, close to the landing-place. It is vari- \nously called a chapel and oratory, but is believed to be the remains of a temple \nof sun-worship, and associated with the remotest antiquity. It has a hand- \nsome round-headed doorway at the west, and is a striking feature in both of \nthe illustrations given. From the abbey issued "The Annals of Innisfallen," a \ncompendium of universal history to the era of St. Patrick, with a continua- \ntion to the end of the thirteenth century \xe2\x80\x94 in Irish intermixed with Latin. \nThe original is in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, and there are copies in Trinity \nCollege, and the Royal Irish Academy, Dublin. \n\nMoore has beautifully conveyed the haunting memory of loveliness left on \nthe mind by this isle, in the following lines : \n\n\n\n\nInnisfallen. \n\n\n\n\nO\'SULLIVAN\'S CASCADE. \n\n\n\n34 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n" Sweet lanisfallen, fare thee well ; \n\nMay calm and sunshine long be thine \\ \nHow fair thou art let others tell\xe2\x80\x94 \nTo feel how fair shall long be mine. \n\n" Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell \n\nIn memory\'s dream that sunny smile \nWhich o\'er thee on that evening fell, \nWhen first I saw thy fairy isle. \n\n" \'Twas light, indeed, too blest for one \nWho had to turn to paths of care \xe2\x80\x94 \nThrough crowded haunts again to run. \nAnd leave thee bright and silent there ; \n\n" No more unto thy shores to come, \n\nBut, on the world\'s rude ocean toss\'d. \nDream of thee sometimes, as a home \nOf sunshine he had seen and lost. \n\n*\' Far better in thy weeping hours, \nTo part from thee as I do now ; \nWhen mist is o\'er thy blooming bowers, \nLike sorrow\'s veil on beauty\'s brow. \n\n" For, though unrival\'d still thy grace. \nThou dost not look, as then, too blest, \nBut thus in shadow, seem\'st a place \n\nWhere erring man might hope to rest \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n" Might hope to rest, and find in thee \nA gloom like Eden\'s, on the day \nHe left its shade, when every tree. \n\nLike thine, hung weeping o\'er his way. \n\n" Weeping or smiling, lovely isle ! \n\nAnd all the lovelier for thy tears--- \nFor, though but rare thy sunny smile, \n\'Tis heav\'n\'s own glance when it appears. \n\n" Like feeling hearts, whose joys are few. \nBut, when indeed they come, divine \xe2\x80\x94 \nThe brightest light the sun e\'er threw. \nIs lifeless to one gleam of thine ! " \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\n35 \n\n\n\n\nThe Cottage at Glena. \n\n\n\nO\' Sullivan\'s Cascade is at the foot of the Toomies, and the stream which \nforms it separates these mountains from Glena, and empties into the lake on the \nsouth-west shore which presents a rich and beautiful extent of foliage. Approach- \ning it, the hills have a fine \nappearance and broken out- \nline. The deep woods clothe \ntheir base, and farther up they \nare covered with heath, and \nfurrowed with water-courses. \nLanding to the right of the \nbed of the stream, and follow- \ning the course of the torrent, \nthe roar of dashing waters \nbreaks on the ear ; but the \nover-arching foliage, and the \n\nintervening shrubs are so thick, that a sight of the waterfall is not attained \nuntil expectation has been some time excited by the sound of its plunging \nthrough the rugged channel. It rolls a large volume of water from the deep \nbosom of a woody glen, with impetuous velocity over a cliff seventy feet high, \n\nand forms three distinct falls \xe2\x80\x94 the first \npassing over the ridge falls perpendicu- \nlarly into an unseen natural basin, from \nwhich it escapes and forces itself impetu- \nously between two hanging rocks into \nanother basin, from which it makes its \nthird leap into a rugged and broken \ncourse, where its force and fury is ex- \npended before it joins the placid waters \nof the lake. In the opinion of some tour- \n=1:^ ists, this fall is superior in beauty to all \nothers in the district, not even excepting \nTore and Derricunnihy. It is certainly \nexceedingly beautiful, presenting the ap- \npearance of a " continued . flight of unequally elevated foamy stages." A fine \nview of the cascades is obtained from a grotto under a projecting rock, over- \nhanging the lower basin ; so overshadowed by an arch of foliage as to shut \nout the lisfht. \n\n\n\n\nRuins of Ross Castle. \n\n\n\n36 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND, \n\n\n\nFollowing the woody shores under Glena which is covered with the richest \nevergreens, we find in a charming forest glade on Glena Bay, a cottage erected \nby the counties of Kenmare, for the accommodation of visitors, and so spacious \nthat several parties can occupy it at the same time without inconvenience. \n\nRoss Castle is one of the most striking and attractive features of Killarney \nscenery. It presents a very picturesque effect itself, as seen from all parts of \nthe lake and from every one of the adjacent mountains, and affords from the \nsummit of its tower a commanding panoramic view of every important object \n\nby which it is surrounded. It \n^~ " ~-^f^^-:z^^^ takes its name from the ros, or \n\npeninsula, on which it stands, on \nthe eastern shore of the Lower \nLake. The castle consisted of a \nstrong keep and other stout build- \nings, both of a domestic and mili- \ntary nature, surrounded by the \nusual bawn* wall, with its breast- \nworks and circular flanking towers \nat the corners. The point on \nwhich it is built was made an \nisland by the cutting of a deep channel through the marshy neck originally joining \nit to the mainland. This ditch, flooded by the waters of the lake, formed a prin- \ncipal defense on the land side. The date of its foundation is unsettled, but \nthe style of its masonry and other characteristics indicate it as belonging to the \nlatter part of the fourteenth century. About that date, and in some parts of \nIreland, before it, the Irish chieftains began to adopt some of the manners of \ntheir powerful Norman neighbors ; and upon the site of their wooden caJiirs, \nor fortresses, built strong castles of stone, in which they stood many a gallant \nsiege, and from which they led many a foray to protect their borders from the \nmail-clad intruders. During the vengeful wars that raged through Ireland, Ross \nCastle several times changed hands. From the O\'Donoghue More, by one of \nwhose ancestors it seems to have been erected, it passed into the hands of \nMac Carthy More, by whom it was transferred in i588 to Sir Valentine \nBrowne, ancestor of the present house of Kenmare. After the fall of the \nConfederation of Kilkenny, in 1648, which was soon followed by the execu- \n\n\n\n\nRoss Island. \n\n\n\n* Ba-cvn, an anglicised form of the Irish bo-dhun (cow-fortress), a fortified inclosure for cattle. \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\n37 \n\n\n\ntion of Charles I. in England, many of the generals of the former stoutly \nheld out arainst the Cromwellians, who succeeded the latter. Among these \n\n\n\n\nf was Donagh Mac Carthy, Lord \nof Muskerry, commander of the \nCatholic forces of Munster. After \nhis defeat b> the ParHamentary \nforces under Lord Broghill at Knock- \nmclashy in July, i65i, he led fifteen \nhundred men across the mountains, \nand threw himself into Ross Castle. The \nstrength of the position is indicated by the \nParliamentarian General Ludlow, who in \nhis " Memoirs," states that he led four \nthousand foot and two thousand horse to its reduction. Muskerry resisted him \nfor some time, but Ludlow, having launched several boats on the lake, each \nholding one hundred and twenty men, was able to use some of his force in \n\n\n\nRoss Castle. \n\n\n\n38 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ncutting off the land supplies to the castle. In this dilemma Muskerry was forced \nto parley, and, as Ludlow says, " after a fortnight\'s debate, concluded the agree- \nment " of capitulation.* At all times of interest, the time-worn battlements of \nthis ancient stronghold present, under particular surroundings of atmosphere, a \nmost fascinating effect. On every side it commands scenes of the wildest beauty \nand sublimity. To the west, before it, arise the Toomies and the Purple Moun- \ntains, and beyond them the lofty Reeks of Magillicuddy throw up their savage \nsummits into the ever-varying sky. To the east and north-east the valley of \n\nthe Flesk, Coltman\'s Castle, \n-sr=r^^ the Millstreet Mountains and \n\nthe Paps. To the north a \nnumber of abrupt and irregu- \nlar eminences, with Killarney \ntown and the Kenmare de- \nmesne between, with the ruins \nof Aghadoe to the north-west. \nSouthward the Middle Lake, \nMuckross, and Castlelough \nbay in the foreground, with \nTore and Crommaglan Moun- \ntains, and nearly on a line with the latter, but almost as high as both together, \nthe Mangerton range in the background. \n\nWhen N. P. Willis visited Ross Castle, the sun was near its setting, and \nthe scene presented was one of rare loveliness. " A soft and golden flood of \nlight covered the bosom of the lake, and the background of mountains and \nislands, with a glory inexpressibly beautiful. The side of the ruined castle \ntoward me lay in deep shade, and its one square and tall tower cut the glow- \ning sky with an effect which made me wish I had been an artist. The scene \naltogether, for softness of atmosphere, richness of light, singular beauty of out- \nline, and combination of island, mountain, and water, seemed to me quite incom- \nparable. I ascended the top of the ruin, and sat watching the fading light on \nthe lake till the color was dissolved in twilight : it was a rare moment of natural \nbeauty, sufficient of itself, without legendary or other interest. I enjoyed it to \nthe depths of my heart." \n\nOne of the most popular and beautiful of Irish legends is associated with \n\n\n\n\nO\'Donog-hue\'s Horse. \n\n\n\nLegends of the Wars in Ireland, by Robert Dwyer Joyce, M.D. ; Ludlow\'s Memoirs (1751), p. i6o. \n\n\n\nKERR Y. \n\n\n\n39 \n\n\n\nRoss Castle and Killarney \xe2\x80\x94 that of O\'Donoghue of the Lakes. The story, which \nmay be found at length in Weld\'s work on Killarney, Derrick\'s letters on the \nsame (1760), Crofton Croker\'s Irish fairy-lore and others, in brief, is this: \nIn the largest of the islands of Lough Lene there lived, many hundred years \nago, a prince named O\'Donoghue, who was lord of the lake, the surrounding \nshore, and a large district of the neighboring country. Indeed, wander where \nyou will to this day, hill, rock, glen, and water recall the affection in which \nthe chief was held. Among other of his appurtenances symbolized by tarn or \ncliff is his " horse," \na rock so worn by \nwater and time as to \nbear somewhat the \nappearance of a \nhorse drinking. \n\nO\'Donoghue was \ndistinguished for \ngreat munificence, \nhumanity, and wis- \ndom ; and by "his \nprofound knowl- \nedge in all the se- \ncret powers of na- \nture, he wrought \nwonders as miracu- \nlous as any tradition has recorded of saints by the aid of angels, or of sorcerers \nby the aid of demons." He was as renowned for his warlike exploits as for \nhis pacific virtues ; and as a proof that his domestic administration was not the \nless rigorous because it was mild, the rocky island, called O\'Donoghue\'s prison, \nis shown as the place where the prince confined his own son for some act of \ndisorder or disobedience. Among other gifts, he possessed the secret of eternal \nyouth. Having continued a long time on the surface of the earth without grow- \ning old, he made the occasion of his departure only less memorable than his \nrevisitings. At one of those splendid feasts at Ross Castle for which his court \nwas celebrated, surrounded by the most distinguished of his chiefs and people, \nhe was engaged in a prophetic relation of the events which were to happen in \nthe ages yet to come. His auditors listened, now rapt in wonder, now fired \nwith indignation, burning with shame or melted into sorrow, as he detailed the \n\n\n\n\nThe Vision of O\'Donoghue. \n\n\n\n40 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nheroism, the injuries, the crimes and miseries of their descendants. In the \nmidst of his predictions, lie arose slowly from his seat, advanced with a solemn, \nmeasured, and majestic tread, passed through the window, and moved for some \ndistance over the waters of the lake. As he reached the centre he paused for \na moment, turned slowly round, looked toward his friends, and waving his \narms to them with the cheerful air of one taking a short farewell, descended \ninto the waters, which opened to receive him, and closed as he disappeared. \n\nThe memory of the good O\'Donoghue is impressed on everything about \nthe lakes, and has been cherished for successive generations : and he seems in \nhis spirit-life to have loved the place and the people, returning again and many \ntimes \xe2\x80\x94 not in the night as ghosts do, revisiting the glimpses of the moon, but \nas one not dead \xe2\x80\x94 on May-day morning, while the sun is radiant and the air \nalive Avith pleasant perfume. His visits are hailed with delight ; for fortunate \nis the being who beholds the generous spirit-chief. His presence is always an \nomen of good fortune, and the vision on May-day is granted to many ; it is a \nsure token of an abundant harvest, the want of which was never felt during the \nreign of this O\'Donoghue. His absence, which sometimes occurs for three or \nfour years, is lamented as an augury of bad times. Derrick had the account \nof one of those beautiful visits \xe2\x80\x94 the O\'Donoghue attended b)^ a numerous reti- \nnue scattering flowers, and moving together over the surface of the Avaters \xe2\x80\x94 \nfrom an " eye-witness ;" and adds : " The account is confirmed in time, place, and \ncircumstances, by many more spectators from the side of the lake, who are all \nready to swear, and not improbably to suffer death in support of their testi- \nmony." Derrick wrote more than a hundred years ago, but testimony not less \npositive is not wanting in our own day in regard to the visions to be seen at \nKillarney. Many living witnesses testified to the appearance of O\'Donoghue, \nand to " actual interviews between children of earth and the spirit of the \ndisembodied prince," to Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall, while at Killarne3\\ One of \nthem they especially refer to as having no "pre-established superstition" \xe2\x80\x94 "an \nEnglishman, a Protestant, and moreover a soldier of the 30th Regiment." His \nstory was : He and a comrade, an Irishman, were engaged in ploughing up the \nold church-yard in Innisfallen, a work they both disliked. As they were moor- \ning the boat in which they came to the island in the morning, after the \'com- \nmencement of the work, "they saw a procession of about two hundred persons \npass from the old church-yard, and walk slowly and solemnly over the lake to \nthe mainland. Reynolds Avas himself terribly alarmed, but his companion fainted \nin the boat." He repeatedly afterward saw smaller groups of figures, but no \n\n\n\n\nEAGLE\'S-NEST MOUNTAIN, FROM KENMARE ROAD. \n\n\n\n42 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\ncrowd so numerous. " In answer to our questions, he expressed his perfect \nreadiness to depose to the fact on oath ; and asserted he would declare it if he \nwere on his death-bed." The writers add, that the " plain-spoken native of \nDevonshire," who had won the prize at the plowing-match the year previous, \nevidently had no imagination, was little likely to invent or give currency to a \nfiction, had no object in coining a deceit, and was indisposed to talk on the \nmatter.* In a scientific note, however, interesting enough to be poetical, this \nand many other old-time legends and visions are disposed of as optical illusions \nand illustrations of the mirage. Among the traditions of the lake is one of a \nbeautiful young girl of the house of Cluain-Fineen, who, believing herself in \nlove with the prince, threw herself into the lake on a May morning, in search \nof the object of her affections. On this romantic theme Moore founded his \n"melody" of " O\'Donoghue\'s Mistress," commencing \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n" Of all the fair months that round the sun \nIn light-link\'d dance their circles run, \nSweet May, shine thou for me ; \nFor still, when thy earliest beams arise, \nThat youth, who beneath the blue lake lies, \nSweet May, returns to me." \n\nMr. Wakefield, at the commencement of the century, observed that those \nwho go to Killarney without ascending the Reeks and Mangerton, though they \nmay come away delighted with the gratification derived from the rich scenery \nof Muckross, the beautiful appearance of the islands emerging from the crystal \nflood, and astonished by the singularly wild and rugged views which the Upper \nLake affords, yet will they know nothing of those grand, awful, and sublime \nscenes exhibited by nature, where objects of the most terrific kind are united \nin the wildest and most fantastical manner. These views, and the enthusiasm \ninspired by the region, have impressed the most intelligent travelers. \n\nThe ascent of Carran Tual is difficult and dangerous, requiring activity, cour- \nage, and endurance. Indeed, a good combination of sure-footed shelties, intel- \nligent guides, self-possession, and strong lungs, are necessary to face the preci- \npices that lie between the lakes and the chief summit of the Reeks. With these \nand favorable weather the ascent will fully repay the toil. Provided with a \nstock of creature comforts adequate to sustain the " inner man " on such an \nexcursion, the road from the town of Killarney along the northern shore of the \nLower Lake, by the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe, is taken, and on to the \n\n* Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall\'s Ireland, etc., vol. i., p. 200. \n\n\n\nKERR Y. \n\n\n\n43 \n\n\n\nGiddagh River, following the upward channel of which the Hag\'s Glen is reached. \nOn the left are the precipices of the Reeks, and on the right the ascent of \nKnock-a-Brianeen. Proceeding, the Hag\'s Lough and Teeth and the Devil\'s \nLough are pointed out, and resigning the ponies, the adventurous searcher \nafter the picturesque must trust for a good hour more to his elastic temper \nand thews and sinews to complete the ascent. Stopping occasionally to \ntake breath, wonder and admiration are tame expressions to describe the \nfeelings which arise at the contemplation of the prospect that unfolds itself, like \na miap, before the vision on \nthe northern side of the Reeks. \nOn reaching the summit the \nfull glory of the scene on all \nsides is magnificent beyond \nconception. A noble pano- \nrama \xe2\x80\x94 glorious in all that \nmakes earth beautiful \xe2\x80\x94 hills, \nlakes, valleys, rivers, are mi- \nnutely discernible below the feet \nof the spectator. The Killar- \nney Lakes, except a small por- \ntion of the Lower one, are \nnot visible, being shut out by \n\nthe Toomies Mountains ; but in the Reeks are several lakes \xe2\x80\x94 now glancing \nin sunlight, now shadowed by overhanging precipices \xe2\x80\x94 within view, while \nimmediately under Carran Tual on the south is Curraghmore Lough, at an \naltitude of 1004 feet, and on the north Lough Gauragh, 11 26 feet above the \nsea level. The scenes extend in sublime grandeur beyond the immedi- \nately surrounding localities, from the Shannon on the north to Cape Clear, and \nembracing between them the bays of Dingle, Kenmare, Bantry, and Dunmanus ; \nthe waters of the Atlantic mingling with the sky in the distant horizon. \n\nThe ascent of Mangerton is less difficult. While at the village of Cloghreen, \nen route, a slight divergence might be made to view the little old church of \nKillaghie. It is very small and of simple construction, yet it will repay a visit, \n"being a sample of the stone-roofed chapels of the early Irish saints. With the \n\xe2\x96\xa0exception of the tower, which is an addition of a later date, a remote antiquity is \nclaimed for this edifice as for others of similar character. The ascent to Mangerton \nis made on sure-footed ponies, through ravines and water-courses, and at times by \n\n\n\n\nKillaghie Church. \n\n\n\n44 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nsteep, rough, and precipitous paths. At length the Devil\'s Punch Bowl is reached, \nand the traveler is not disinclined to rest. This Bowl is a tarn near the sum- \nmit of the mountains, surrounded by almost perpendicular rocks, the rugged \noutlines of which reflected in the water add to its apparent depth, and the singu- \nlar wildness of the lonely scene. Its dark and unfathomable waters, the over- \nflow of which forms the beautiful Tore Cascade, are extremely cold ; and they \n\n\n\n\nDevil\'s Punch Bowl. \n\n\n\nneither freeze m the \nseverest wmters, nor \nare calm m the mild- \nest summers, facts \nwhich are attributed \nto the nature of his Satanic majesty, after whom \nthe lake is named. It is more than two thousand feet above the lakes, and \nis twenty-eight acres in extent. Charles James Fox, it is said, swam round it \nin 1772, and, as suggested by that feat and other facts, he used to boast \nthat he " was shaved by Old Nick (his barber\'s name was Nicholas) in the \nmorning, swam across the Devil\'s Punch Bowl at noon, and got as drunk as \nthe devil at night." To the east of the " Bowl " is Glenna Coppel, which looks \ninaccessible to all save the brown eagle, which seems to have made it its \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\n45 \n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x80\xa2dwelling. A more wild spot can scarcely be imagined \xe2\x80\x94 a valley sunk down as \n\nprecipitous as the crater of a volcano, with several \n\nsmall lakes at the bottom. None should attempt . f - \xe2\x80\xa2\' ~ - \n\nthe descent save hardy climbers, and even those - \n\non the north side, through the opening by which ^ ^ ^~- \n\nit discharges the overflow from its lakes in the - \n\nwinter.* \n\nFrom the Punch Bowl the ascent to the sum- \nmit of Mangerton is by a narrow pathway too \nsteep for the ponies. An American, who from \nyouth had learned to love natural scenery \xe2\x80\x94 whose \neyes and feelings were trained to the picturesque \n-and grand by the bold outlines of the Granite \nHills, over which tower Semaphor, Kearsarge, and \nMonadnock \xe2\x80\x94 made the ascent of Mangerton, and \nhas given us his impressions f of the view from \nthe summit. \n\n" Here," he says, " we had a magnificent pros- \npect in all directions, as far as the eye could reach, \nexcept a small space at the west, toward Derrynane \xe2\x80\x94 the former residence of \nO\'Connell, which was hidden by the highest peak in Ireland, Carran Tual, and \n\nMagillicuddy"s Reeks, which stand \n\n^^ ;:^ _^^ ^^^ like towers of defense about their \n\n^ ^^\'^^^^^^* ;"T"r"^^^ \xe2\x80\x94 -, royal master. North of them, \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 ^_ beyond a fine, undulating country^ \n\n^-;.i~ \xe2\x80\x94 we could see Dingle Bay ; and \n\non the south, over rough, barren \nhills, cut in pieces by deep glens \na.nd widening vales, lay, in glossy \nbrightness, the Bay of Kenmare, \nand a little further, over another \nrough range, through which we \ncould trace the celebrated and \nromantic Glengariff, was Bantry Bay, and still further. Cape Clear and the broad \n\n\n\nProfile of Rocks at Devil\'s Punch \nBowl. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThe Flesk River. \n\n\n\n* A Series of Papers, "A Run through the South of Ireland," in the Dublin Saturday Magazine, 1865-6, has given \nus some good hints, practical, descriptive, and otherwise. \n\nt Ireland as I Saw It, by William S. Balch, New York, 1850. \n\n\n\n46 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nAtlantic. Toward the east, a long line of broken, barren, heathy hills, rocky- \ndells, and deep ravines. The romantic valley of the Flesk, winding tortuously \nthrough this wild and desolate region, so well described in Lever\'s O Donoghue, \n\nis distinctly traced \xe2\x80\x94 the rounded Paps \nand Cahirconree on the one side, \nand Croghan and Keim-an-eigh on \nthe other. In this direction is a \nscene of wild and confused desola- \ntion, such as the eye rarely rests \nupon, which contrasts forcibly with \nthe beautiful and cultivated vales be- \nyond, and the broad and gently undu- \nlating plains on the north. \n\n" What adds greatly to the beauty \nof this remarkably picturesque scen- \nery are the numerous little lakes \nwhich bespangle it like stars in the \ndeep blue firmament of heaven. \nScarcely a hut or sign of human \nhabitation meets the eye in all this \nrange. ... I had never dreamed that such a dreary, mountainous district \ncould be found in the Emerald Isle ; never that a landscape so variegated, wild, \nand picturesque was to be looked for, except in Scotland or Switzerland. The \nlakes and town of Killarney, the shaded villas, the small and vari-colored fields, \nthe innumerable white thatched huts dotting the broad sweep of cultivated and \napparently level land west and north, which, seen at this distance, look very \nneat and comfortable ; the floating clouds, which once or twice enveloped us \nin mist \xe2\x80\x94 everything, in fine, conspired to entrance me with the beauty, the splen- \nior, and novelty of the scene. \n\n" The view from the top of Mount Washington is more grand, more aAvfully \nsublime, but lacks the variety, beauty, and romance of this spot. There we see \nno crumbling castles, ivied abbeys, ruined monasteries, unfinished cathedral, \ngray old towers, embowered villas, O\'Donoghue legends, sportsmen\'s lodges, \nshepherd\'s cots, thatched cabins, Irish wit, and Celtic songs. We have beauti- \nful lakes, though none so sweet and silvery as these scattered all about us. \nWe have narrow defiles, but none more wild and picturesque than Glengariff, \nthe Pass of Keim-an-eigh, the Gap of Dunloe, or Commedhuv. We have taller \n\n\n\nOver the Upper Lake. \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\nA7 \n\n\n\nmountains, and ranges, and spurs shooting off in different directions, but none \nare more bleak and wildly confused than these. Ours mingle not the white \nbleached granite, rising occasionally, in perpendicular masses, with the brown \nheather, purple erica, dark-green patches of moor and fen, and glassy lakelets. \nWe have more patriotic names, but none so venerable and euphonious as Carran \nTual, Cahirconree, Cracmaveel, Finnevagogh, Cruchabinny, Fortagrisane, Glen- \ngariff, Toomies, and Cahir Reeks. Ours have a newness and a freshness, which, \nin one sense, charms us. They rise from the midst of vast forests, which climb \nfar up their sides, till dwindled into shrubs and moss; then come the naked \nand confused mass of dark rocks. These plant their deeply indented bases \non broad fields of rich soil, bedotted with lakes, towns, hamlets, and huts, \nwhich latter extend up their shrubless sides as far as space of earth is found \nto till." \n\nIn this connection may be added the observations of another visitor from \nAmerica: "The glory of the picture lay in its massive frame of purple moun- \ntains, towering in savage grandeur tier upon tier, until high over all loomed the \npeak of Carran Tual, or the inverted reaping-hook, so called from its shape. In- \ndeed, it is this combination of sublimity and beauty, rugged mountain and grassy \nslope, crystal waters and waving woods, all concentrated in such a small compass, \nthat makes Killarney unsurpassed as a perfect picture by any other spot on \nGod\'s earth." The writer thinks that for simple beauty alone there is no single \nview in Killarney or in its vicinity equal to one on the Blackwater at Lismore, or \nnear Cappoquin, where that river abruptly changes its eastward course and runs \nsouthward to the sea. But he adds, " Though unsurpassed, in the wealth of glo- \nrious rivers and fertile fields, gorgeous woods and ivy-mantled castles, the dark \nand magnificent background to the picture which forms so striking a feature in \nthe Killarney landscape is wanting." . . . Again, "I have seen some views on \nLake George in this State (New York) which for clearness of the water, greenness \nof the islands on its bosom, and beauty of the woods in their gorgeous autumnal \nlivery, might compare favorably with any single view of Killarney. But here, \nagain, the mountains, though magnificent in their wooded tiaras, are not near as \nhigh nor half as grand in form ; and Lake George can boast of no ivy-crowned \nruin to awaken thoughts of the past." \n\nAs one takes a parting view of the Upper Lake from the Kenmare Road, \nhe is deeply impressed with the prevailing sense of solitary beauty; and will \nagree with Willis, that " here Nature sits in lonely and silent grandeur amidst \nher primeval mountains. Solitude, stillness the most profound, rests upon the \n\n\n\n48 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\n\n\nwoody shores and the tranquil lake, filling and overpowering the mind with a \ndeep sense of the perfect seclusion of the scene." \n\nSir Richard Colt \nHoare, a noted Eng- \nlish antiquary and topo- \ngrapher, declared that \nthe collected beauties \nof this favored district \nare so great, so varied, \nand so superior to any- \nthing that he had ever \nseen in Italy, Switzer- \nland, or England, that \nto delineate or describe \nthem he felt impossi- \nble. Artists and au- \nthors will agree with \nhim ; and, in realizing \nthat neither pen nor \npencil can do complete \njustice to the scen- \nery and ever - varying \neffects, will also unite \nwith Judge Haliburton \nof Nova Scotia, when \nhe says: " Killarney is \nnot over-praised \xe2\x80\x94 it is \nnot praised half enough. \nGo there of a fine day, \nwhen the lake is sleep- \ning in the sunbeams, \nand the jealous moun- \ntain extends its shadowy vail to conceal its beautiful bosom from the intrusive \ngaze of the stranger. Go when the light silver vapor rises up like a transparent \nscarf, and folds the lofty summit of Mangerton, till it is lost in the fleecy clouds \non the upper regions. Rest on your oars and drift slowly down to the base of \nthe cliff, and give utterance to the emotions of your heart, and say, \' O, God, \n\n\n\n\nTore Mountain from Dinnis Island. \n\n\n\nKERR V. \n\n\n\n49 \n\n\n\nhow beautiful ! \' and your voice will awaken the sleepy echoes from their \ndrowsy caverns, and every rock, and every cavern, and every crag, and every \npeak of the mountain will respond to your feeling, and echo in a thousand \nvoices, \' O God, how beautiful ! \' Then turn your \nback to the coming \nbreeze, an^ steer for \nMuckross Abbey. __ \n\n\n\n\nCascade on the Galivay Rivei \n\n\n\nPause here \nagain to take \na last, long, \nlingering look at this scene \nof loveliness, and with a mind \nthus elated and purified, \nturn from nature to nature\'s \nGod, and entering upon the \nawful solitude that reigns over His holy temple, kneel upon its broken altar, \nand pray to Him who made this island so beautiful, to vouchsafe in His \ngoodness and mercy to make it also tranquil and happy." Macaulay, writing at, \nand of Killarney, says : " I never in my life saw anything more beautiful ; I \nmight say, so beautiful. Imagine a fairer Windermere in that part of Devon- \nshire where the myrtle grows wild. The ash-berries are redder, the heath richer, \n4 \n\n\n\n50 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthe very fern more delicately articulated than elsewhere. The wood is every- \nwhere. The grass is greener than anything that I ever saw. There is a positive \nsensual pleasure in looking at it." "^ \n\nThe chorus of Cascades from Derrycunnihy and the Galway River \xe2\x80\x94 to which \nallusion was made on our route from the Black Valley to our first view of the \nUpper Lake \xe2\x80\x94 breaks upon the reverie into which these expressions of apprecia- \ntion led us, only, however, to enable us to still more fully realize the beauty of \nthe objects that inspired them. \n\nAmono- the attractive modern features which taste and wealth have added \nto the neighborhood of Killarney is the handsome castle built by Mr. Colts- \nman about half a century ago. A native of Great Britain, he became en- \namored of the beauty of Killarney, and purchasing an estate adjoining the \nLower Lake, raised the castellated and picturesquely situated residence shown \nin the engraving ; principally, it was said, from his own designs. The grounds \nwhen selected were bleak, but within ten years after, fine plantations and \nfruit-orchards added their charms of foliage to the scene. Crowning an emi- \nnence which falls gently on every side, the castle affords unobstructed views \nof the surrounding scenery. The County of Kerry abounds in natural won- \nders, but the observation of Mr. Wakefield many years ago is almost as true \nof to-day \xe2\x80\x94 that the attention of the tourist is so much occupied with Killar- \nney, that the romantic scenery and antiquities in other parts are either forgotten \nor largely overlooked. Of course this is readily accounted for, yet the beau- \nties of Killarney will not, or at least should not, dull the edge of the percep- \ntive sensibilities for scenery not less remarkable, if less celebrated. The scenery \nof the sea-coast is particularly fine. Lough Carra, fifteen miles west of Kil- \nlarney, about seven miles in length, and varying from two to four miles wide,, \nwas formerly only known to persistent sportsmen, but Avith the aid of good \nroads and accommodations, it is growing into general estimation. It is divided \ninto upper and lower, and the former is one of the grandest of the Kerry \nLakes, and deemed not inferior to its namesake at Killarney. The Valle}- of \nGlencar, in which Carra takes its rise, is surrounded by mountains, that pre- \nsent a grand amphitheatric appearance \xe2\x80\x94 one rising above the other, with the \nReeks and Carran-Tual towering back of all to the south. The Lough \xe2\x80\x94 which \nis connected with the sea by Carra River, five miles long \xe2\x80\x94 is almost in the direct \nline to Cahir-civeen, the Southern Coast of Dingle Bay, and the Harbor and \n\n\n\n* Life and Letters of Lord Macaulay, vol. ii., p. 230. \n\n\n\nKERRY. 51 \n\nIsland of Valentia. Cahir-civeen is chiefly noted for its proximity to the birth- \nplace of O\'Connell. Derrynane x\'\\bbey, the patriot\'s country seat, originally a \nfarm-house which has received additions from time to time, is picturesquely \nsituated near the mouth of the Kenmare River, and in the vicinity of some mo- \nnastic ruins dating from the seventh century. Speaking of this district, in i752, \nSmith\'s " Kerry," the only work which then, or for perhaps three-quarters of a \ncentury later, noticed the remote locality, said, "At Aghmore, toward the \nwestern extremity of the parish, are the remains of a small abbey of canons \nregular of St. Austin, founded by the monks of St. Finbar, near Cork, in the \nseventh century. It is situated in a small island near the mouth of the river of \nKenmare, having its walls so beaten by the sea, that they will soon be entirely \ndemolished. About a league to the southwest of this island, which is at low \nwater joined to the shore, there are two islands called Scariff and Dinish ; the \nformer is a high mountain in the sea, and hath one family on it, who take care \nof some cows, and make a considerable quantity of butter; on the top of the \nhighest ground in the island, is a ruined hermitage. These islands, with the \ncontinent, are farmed from the Earl of Cork and Orrery, by Mr. Daniel Connel, \nwho has on a part of the said land, named Derrynane, built a good house, and \nmade other improvements, the only plantation hereabouts." Inglis went through \nthe "Wilds of Kerry" in 1834, and of the route from Killarney to Cahir-civeen \nsaid, "The road is altogether a very interesting one, both on account of the \nscenery through which the traveler passes ; and on account of the peculiarities \nthat attach to the people of these parts, which are said to have been colonized \nby Spanish settlers, and which long held a close intercourse with the Penin- \nsula. . . . Nothing can be finer than the road skirting the sea, after \nleaving Lord Headly\'s property. In the magnificence of its mountain and sea \nviews, it is not inferior to any of the celebrated roads which have been con- \nstructed along the shores of the Mediterranean ; and is every way superior to \nthe road from Bangor to Conway, in North Wales." He was now in " O\'Con- \nnell\'s country." " Near to Cahir-civeen is the birth-place of the great agitator. \nIt is a ruined house, situated in a hollow near to the road ; and when I reached \nthe spot, the driver of the car pulled up, and inquired whether I would like to \nvisit the house." \n\nIn 1825, on the death of his uncle Maurice, " Old Hunting-Cap," who had \nadopted him, Daniel O\'Connell became possessed of Derrynane. He made \nthe old house suitable to his position, enjoyed himself as a prince, and gave \nprincely entertainment to his friends. He was enthusiastic about the scenery \n\n\n\n52 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\namong which he had passed his boyhood, and loved to roam about with his \nguests, and to point out to them the cloud-capped mountains of Coomakisth \nand Kilcrohan, and climb with them to the Scholar\'s Cave, there to feast the \neye on the sea in all its grandeur, and the ear with the unceasing and never- \ntiring chorus of the Atlantic. \n\nHe kept a large establishment during his visits to Derrynane, and the \nold retainers and their children and children\'s children flocked about him at \n\nhome, like the sea-birds \nround a rock on the sea- \nshore, or as the multitude \ncircled him on political \noccasions. He loved the \nmusic of the pack by day \nas well as he loved the \nmusic of the piper when \nthe day\'s doings had closed, \nand the evening\'s merri- \nment had commenced. At the head of his table, he showed to such advantage \nthat one could scarcely think so wide a wealth of sunshiny nature could ever \nbe transformed into stormy wrath. No word of political or religious significance \nwas indulged in, that could suggest, much less indicate, a difference between \nhost and guest. And, like a true old boy as he was, he ever loved the society \nof the young and fair. Florence MacCarthy, describing O\'Connell in his moun- \ntain home, thus depicts the region of Derrynane. \n\n\n\n\nShore of Dingle Bay. \n\n\n\n" Where foams the white torrent and rushes the rill \nDown the murmuring slopes of the echoing hill ; \nWhere the eagle looks out from his cloud-crested crags, \nAnd the caverns resound with the panting of stags ; \nWhere the brow of the mountain is purple with heath. \nAnd the mighty Atlantic rolls proudly beneath, \nWith the foam of its waves like the snowy Fenane, \nOh ! this is the region of wild Derrynane." \n\nValentia Island is the extreme point of land on the south side of Dingle \nBay, and with the exception of the little islands north of it, is the nearest point \nof Ireland to America. The island is about five miles long, and two broad, \nand is owned by the Knight of Kerry, who resides on it at Glenbean. It has \na world-wide interest as the Atlantic Telegraph Station \xe2\x80\x94 the spot on which the \n\n\n\n\nVIEWS IN THE L^KE COUMTRY. \n\n\n\n\n54 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nEuropean end of the Atlantic Cable from America is fixed. The ocean is here \nseen in all its wildest magnificence, the waves rising to a height scarcely credible \nto those who have not visited this coast. Near the northwest entrance to \nValentia Harbor is Beg Innis Island, on which Cromwell placed a fort. A light- \nhouse is now there, the lantern of which is fifty-four feet above the sea level, \n\ndisplaying a fixed white light, \nvisible at twelve miles, dis- \ntance. A signal tower is also \non Breahead, the southern- \nmost point of the island. \nOne of the largest vessels \nof the Spanish Armada was \nwrecked here \xe2\x80\x94 a cabin-boy \nbeing the only person saved. \nPusha-Pike Fishing. To the northeast. Dingle \n\nBay extends inland. Its \nshores are indented with numerous harbors and lesser bays, formed by the moun- \ntains running out into the sea and producing a wild and imposing effect. \n\nSouth of Valentia are the Skelligs, a group of three rocks which rank \namong " the greatest curiosities of the Atlantic." They were formerly celebrated \nas the resort of pilgrims. The great Skellig is nearly eight miles south- \nwest of Breahead, and eight miles northwest of Bolushead, and is composed of \na mass of slated rock, rising perpendicularly to the height of i6o feet, and then \nforms two pyramids, one of which is 1,500 feet above the level of the sea. \nThere are two light-houses here, they are 65o feet apart, and are distinguished \nas the upper and lower Skellig lights; their lanterns, 372 and 173 feet above \nhigh water, displaying two fixed white lights, seen respectively at a distance of \ntwenty-five and eighteen miles at sea. The soundings about these islands \nare in ninety fathoms water, and abound with a great variety of fish. The \nsouthern bays, rivers, and estuaries are famous fisheries, and the usual mode of \nfishing in these waters is termed " pusha-pike." It needs but one man to \nmanage a net. " At low tide he moors his boat to a pole fixed in the water, \nand spreading a net loosely over two poles placed at an angle, lowers it into the \nnarrow channel. When the net is touched by a fish, the fisher who holds the \nupper part, feels the touch, and he instantly raises the net and secures the prize." \nThe peninsula, north of Dingle Bay, extending from the lofty Sliev Rlish \nbetween Tralee and Castlemaine, to the Blaskets, is full of natural beauties and \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\n55 \n\n\n\n\nBiViittrs Castle \n\n\n\nhistorical associations. Here, as all along these coasts, the Spaniards had set- \ntlements, and the remains of strongholds are numerous. At Ferriter\'s Cove, \nseven hundred Spaniards and Itahans landed with munitions to aid Des- \nmond, then in arms against Elizabeth. They took the town of Smerwick, but \nsubsequently, having surrendered, were mercilesssly slaughtered \xe2\x80\x94 the foreigners \nwere put to the sword, and the _ \n\nIrish hanged to a man. This \nact was brought against Sir \nWalter Raleigh on his trial, and \nhe was unable to fully excul- \npate himself from participation \nin the dishonorable and foul \ndeed. As Hall, an English \nwriter says, " The butchery is, \nand ever will be, a foul stain \non Raleigh ; it was a gratuitous \nand merciless act of slaughter, utterly indefensible ; ... it was, however, but \nin keeping with the whole system pursued by the English in these parts." The \nremaining tower of Ferriter\'s Castle, situated on a wild spot on the very verge \nof the Atlantic, recalls another of many terrible illustrations of this "system." \nThe last of the Ferriters, Pierce, was "out in the troubles" of 1641, surren- \ndered under promise of pardon, but was, with all his followers, put to the sword. \n\nAbout four miles from Dingle, at Kilmelchedor, are two ancient heathen tem- \nples ; one in the ornamental style, and the other plain. The first is called in Irish, \nTemple Melchedor \xe2\x80\x94 the "Temple of the Golden Moloch;" and is believed to \nbe as old as Cormac\'s Chapel at Cashel. Over the door on the inside is the \nfigure of an ox\'s head \xe2\x80\x94 supposed to represent the Golden Moloch himself. The \nother is called Gallern\'s Oratory. The wildness of the place, and the sparsity \nof population, lead the people, in their inability to see their use, to credit such \nbuildings to supernatural agency. The presence, however, of such remarkably \nperfect specimens of architecture in such localities, must be a subject of deeply \ninteresting conjecture, if not study, to rational, intelligent people. \n\nAmong the most wonderful of the coast sights are the Caves of Ballybunlan. \n" The whole shore," writes the old historian, " here hath a variety of romantic \ncaves and caverns, formed by the dashing of the waves ; in some places are \nhigh open arches, and in others Impending rocks, ready to tumble down upon \nthe first storm." Mr. William Ainsworth published a small volume descriptive \n\n\n\n56 \n\n\n\nPICTURE SO UE IRE LA ND. \n\n\n\nof them in 1834, in which he says: "The cliffs of Ballybunian are even less \nremarkable for their dimensions, than they are for the singular form of rocks, \nwhich seem as if carved by the hand of man ; and, independently of the lofty \n\n\n\n\nBally I\'ll mall, on I he Coast. \n\n\n\nmural precipices, whose angular proportions present every variety of arrangement, \nas in Smuggler\'s Bay, where they oftentimes are semicircularly arranged, like \nthe eroin-work of an arch, or the tablets or small strings running round a window. \n\n\n\nKERRY. \n\n\n\n57 \n\n\n\n\nArdfert Abbey. \n\n\n\nor are piled above one another in regular succession, presenting a geological phe- \nnomenon of great grandeur and magnificence, they have also other distinct beau- \nties, which originate frequently \nin similar causes." ~~ \n\nTralee is the chief town of \nthe county. It is well built \nand lighted, presents a pleasing \naspect ; has about thirteen thou- \nsand inhabitants, and carries on a \nprosperous traffic. With a vast \nexpanse of water before it and \nSleiv Mish beside it, the scenery \nin its neighborhood is very at- \ntractive. Near the village of \nArdfert, about five miles north- \nwest from Tralee, are the ruins \nof Ardfert Abbey, not only the most important monastic remains in Kerry, but \nwhich among antiquarians rival the interest surrounding St. Cormac\'s at Cashel. \n\nArdfert was a very ancient diocese. \nThe ruins of the Cathedral bear marks \nof great antiquity. The western front \ncontains four round arches ; in the \neastern, as seen in the illustration, are \nthree elegant narrow-pointed windows, \nand on the right of the altar are some \nniches with Saxon mouldings. A round \ntower, built chiefly of dark marble, \nand one hundred and twenty feet high, \nstood near the west front, suddenly \nfell down in 1771. Tradition states \nthat Ardfert had seven churches ; and \nthe remains of four were at a recent \ndate traceable within the Cathedral \nenclosure, which also contains the \ntombs of many of the old families of Kerry, of which we give a specimen. \n\nThe castle of the Lords of Kerry who protected the churches of Ardfert is \nrepresented by the broken remnant wall. Smith says it was " demolished in the \n\n\n\n\nTomb m Ardfert Abbey. \n\n\n\n58 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nwars of 1 641," but the building then destroyed was a recent structure, erected \non the site of the ancient castle, "built by Nicholas, the third Lord Kerry, in \n131 1, and re-edified by Thomas, the eighteenth Lord, in iSgo." The Cathe- \ndral is dedicated to St. Brendan. Carthaguiney is the name of the peninsula \nthat shoots \xe2\x80\x94 as Camden said of the whole county, " like a tongue into the \nsea, roaring on both sides of it" \xe2\x80\x94 a length of twenty-five miles, a ridge of \nmountains sending its loftiest summits toward the west end, the tallest of which \nis called after the same Saint, Brendan, named the Voyager. This mountain \nand the bay within its shelter are deeply interesting as the place whence St. \nBrendan set out on his voyages of discovery in the sixth century. Having \nlearned from his cousin Barinthius of a voyage made, and of the western isles \nlanded on, by him, he determined \xe2\x80\x94 for the conversion of the heathen \xe2\x80\x94 to take a \nvoyage of discovery himself Aware that many traditions existed on the western \nIrish coast, of the existence of a farther western land, he proceeded up the coast \nand made inquiries among the remnants of the Tuatha-de-Danaan people, whose \ngreat knowledge led them to be regarded as magicians by the Milesians. He \nset up his cross at Inniskea and Innisgloria, where subsequently in his honor were \nerected those monuments whose curious remains still exist. Having satisfied \nhis mind, he returned to his native Kerry, and from a bay sheltered by the lofty \nmountain, that is now known by his name, he set sail for the Atlantic land. \n\n" At length the long-expected morning came, \n\nWhen from the opening arms of that wild bay, \nBeneath the hill that bears my humble name. \n\nOver the waves we took our untracked way : \nSweetly the morn lay on tarn and rill. \n\nGladly the waves played in its golden light. \nAnd the proud top of the majestic hill \n\nShone in the azure air \xe2\x80\x94 serene and bright. \n\n" Over the sea we flew that sunny morn, \n\nNot without natural tears and human sighs. \nFor who can leave the land where he was born, \n\nAnd where, perchance, a buried mother lies, \nWhere all the friends of riper manhood dwell. \n\nAnd where the playmates of his childhood sleep : \nWho can depart, and breathe a cold farewell, \n\nNor let his eyes their honest tribute weep ? \n\n" Our little bark kissing the dimpled smiles \nOn Ocean\'s cheek, flew like a wanton bird. \nAnd then the land, with all its hundred isles. \nFaded away ..." D. Florence McC.\'^rthy, Voyage of St. Brendan. \n\n\n\nKERRY. 59 \n\nDirecting his course southwest to meet the summer solstice, after a long \nand rough voyage, he came to summer seas, where he was carried along for \ndays without the aid of sail or oar. "This, it is presumed, was the great Gulf \nStream, which brought his three vessels to shore somewhere about the Virginia \nCapes, or where the American coast trends eastward and forms the New England \nStates." He landed, proceeded for fifteen days into the interior until he came to \na large river flowing from east to west, and returned under some admonition that \n\n\n\n\nMount Brendan. \n\nthe Christianizing of the land would devolve on other men, and in other times. \nAfter an absence of seven years he returned to his native country. Curious details \nare given of his wanderings in old metrical narratives. The voyage of St. Bren- \ndan was very popular from the twelfth century. It was first promulgated in Latin, \nsubsequently translated into all the languages of Western Europe, and exercised, \nsays Montalembert, " a lively influence upon the Christian imagination during all \nthe middle ages, and even up to the time of Christopher Columbus, to whom the \nsalt-water epic of St. Brendan seems to have pointed out the way to America". * \n\n* " 1 am convinced," said Columbus, " that the terrestrial paradise is in the island of St. Brendan, which nobody \ncan reach except by the will of God." Quoted by M. Ferdinand Denis, Le Monde Enchante, p. 130. Vide Montalem- \nbert, Monks of the West (vol. i., p. 695). \n\n\n\n6o PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nThe legend, says Otway, "when tested by common sense, clearly shows that \nBrendan landed on a continent, and went a good way into the interior, met a \ngreat river running in a different direction from those he heretofore crossed ; \nand here, from the difficulty of transit or want of provisions, or deterred by in- \ncreasing difficulties, he turned back." * On his return he visited Brittany, where \nhe founded a monastery, and subsequently, at the age of about seventy, the great \nestablishment at Clonfert, Galway, into which he collected three thousand monks. \nThe "Annals of The Four Masters" record his death in a.d. 5/6, as follows: \n" St. Brenainn, Abbot of Cluain-ferta-Brenainn, died on the i6th May. He died \nat Eanach-dain (now Annadown, in the barony of Clare, County Galway), and his \nbody was interred at Cluain-ferta-Brenainn." \n\nOn the top of Mount Brendan are the remains of the Saint\'s Oratory ; and \nan ancient stone-paved causeway leading to it, which are believed to be coeval \nwith the voyager himself Old ecclesiastical writers refer to Kerry as St. Bren- \ndan\'s land, and Camden calls that part of the Atlantic off the coast of Kerry, \nat the mouth of the Shannon, Mare Brendanicuin, or the Sea of Brendan. \n\nAs our opening chapter describes the nearest Irish land to America, brief \nallusion to the first European Avho, according to tradition, found his way to the \nAmerican Continent, will not be deemed out of place. Our eminent poet Long- \nfellow assigns the Flemish version of the wonderful journey of St. Brendan \n{Reis van Sainte Brandaeii) to the twelfth century, and in his " Poetry of Eu- \nrope " gives an outline of the strange romance, which he deems of French \norigin. In the thirteenth century Bishop Voraginius of Genoa, made special \nmention of it in the " Golden Legend," and in 1483, Wynkin de Worde re- \nhearsed it in the " Life of Saynte Brandan " in its earliest English form. The \nearly popularity in France of the Irish Saint\'s voyage is illustrated by the \nallusion of Pierre St. Cloud \xe2\x80\x94 that among the graceful resources of a troubadour \nwas his ability to sing a tale \n\n" Of Arthur brave or Tristram bold, \nOf Charpel, or Saint Brendan old." \n\nFrench interest in the subject has not abated even during our time, judging from \nthe fact that two French versions, as well as the original in Latin, were printed \nin Paris in 1836. In Blackiuood\' s Magazine (vol. xxxix.) may be found a spirited \ntranslation of one of the early French romances ; and Denis Florence McCarthy \nhas treated the theme in an original poem, from which an extract has been made. \n\n* Sketches in Erns and Tyrawley, pp. loo-l. \n\n\n\nV ^-^ ^ j^ \n\n\n\nXoz^^^" \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCopyright, 1878, by Thomas Kelly, New Yoi\'k. \n\n\n\nJf T T ID JF IJ> W JIS JL r IT \n\n\n\n\n%s, \n\n\n\n<^ HT \n\n\n\n\xe2\x80\x94l 1 1 I L 1 l_ \n\n\n\nCop>Ti([ht,18Tfl, hy ThoiriM Kelly, New York. \n\n\n\nW I C K L O W. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nThi County of \nAVicklow is one of \nthe mobt enchant- \ning territories, not \nonly in Ireland, but \nin Europe For its \nsize, it will proba- \nbly compare in pic- \nturesque contrasts \nof sublimity and \nbeauty with any of \nsimilar extent in \nthe world. It has \n\nbeen called the Garden of Ireland ; the Eden and boast of the inhabitants of \nDublin ; the most picturesque of Irish counties ; and has inspired what might \nseem exaggerated strains of laudation from foreign as well as native writers. \nThis susnicinn of over-praise, however, quickly fades away in presence of the \n\n6i \n\n\n\nFirsi View of Wicklow\xe2\x80\x94from the Scalp. \n\n\n\n62 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nscenes and sensations commemorated, and the heretofore doubter is hkely ta \ndiscover the resources of his language insufficient to convey the compensating \nhomage of his constant state of surprise, wonder and delight. He will realize \nthe inability, expressed by a most appreciative writer on the subject, " to portray \nin words all the charms that embellish this romantic region ; " and feel that even \n"glimpses of the sweet haunts of this fairy land" conjure up \n\n" The power, the beauty, and the majesty \nThat have their haunts in dale or piny mountain, \nOr forest, by slow stream, or pebbly spring. \nOr chasms, or watery depths." \n\nHere nature has been lavish of her bounties; and culture, taste, and well-directed \nwealth have united in developing or embellishing the scenic gifts of Providence. \nWhile mountains of rugged aspect, but striking outline, rise thousands of feet \nover gloriously wooded uplands and broad hills, and form the guardian almoners \nof numerous rich and fertile valleys, the face of the country is otherwise seamed \nwith chasms that sink hundreds of feet into the earth. Through these the streams\' \ntear in their conquering way, flashing in magnificent cataracts over steep crags, \nresounding in the cavernous clearings made by the toil of centuries, or whimper- \ning with gentle poetical effect in pebbly brooks and reflecting pools, as they \nemerge from the gloom and meet the sunshine in the more expanding valleys. \n\nWithin the borders of Wicklow are very remarkable contrasts of rugged, \nuntamed sublimity, and tastefully developed loveliness. It is alive with beautiful \nand sparkling streams, rivers and lakes, wild cascades and stately waterfalls. Its \nglens and vales are of every variety : of the wildest grandeur, narrow and pre- \ncipitous, like the Scalp and Glen-ma-lure ; of most romantic features, like the \nDargle and the Devil\'s Glen ; of almost savage sadness, as at Glen-da-lough \xe2\x80\x94 \nthe valley of the Seven Churches ; and of fascinating fertility and expanded \nbeauty, as in the Vale of Avoca and the Vale of Clara. A writer, a few years \nsince, truly said : " It is a land of loveliness, of sunshine and flowers, of sloping \nhill and deep valley, of mountain and marine view ; land of rich soil and lovely \nseats, of roads of marble surface winding through incomparable demesnes ; and \nonly for the loss of Parliament, with the absenteeism consequent on this vital \nloss, would be a terrestrial paradise. Notwithstanding this absentee drain, \nthe resident gentry of the locality have spared neither purse nor pains in \nthe improvement of their demesnes, and the face of the land is covered with \nnatural beauties, as various as unrivaled, at every half-mile of the tourists\' jour- \nney, from the Bridge of Bray to Arklow, and from Wicklow Head to Cnoc-a-dru." \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. \n\n\n\n63 \n\n\n\nThe proximity of Wicklow to the city of Dublin has been of great advan- \ntage to it, both as regards the improvement of its natural attractions and the \nextension of their fame. Within easy reach of the metropolis, the eastern por- \ntion especially offers deliciously shaded retreats to successful men who seek a \nhome there ; to the fashionable, it is an exhaustless summer resource ; to the \ntourist, a series of marvels at little cost of time or money ; and to the resident \nnobility and gentry, a perpetual treasury of limitless delight. The benefit is \nmutual, for few capitals of any distinction in the world are so immediately within \nsuch reasonable access to such a noble variety of glorious scenery. There are \nthree main avenues from \nDublin County into Wick- \nlow : the coast line by Bray ; \nthe western, by the road to \nBlessington leading to the \nPoul-a-phuca waterfall, and \nwhat might be termed the \ncentral \xe2\x80\x94 although considera- \nbly to the east of the central \ncounty line \xe2\x80\x94 through the \nScalp. A more central ave- \nnue is that through Killakee \nand over the Kippure Moun- \ntain, by the Military Road, \nwhich enters Wicklow over \nthe Vale of Glancree, with \nLough Bray on the right. From Killakee, in the Dublin Mountains, there is a \ngrand panoramic view embracing the city, suburbs, and bay of Dublin. The \nfavorite Wicklow " trail," however, is by the Scalp, an apperture or defile which \nseems to have been created by some convulsion of nature, in which a great \nmountain of granite was split in the center, the efTect producing, as viewed from \nsome distance, the appearance of the letter V. The road runs through the \nbottom of the rugged valley thus made. At either side of the road for a quarter \nof a mile, the mountain is very steep, ragged and jagged in outline, and rises to \na considerable height. The effect is enhanced by the wild and barren character \nof the rocky walls of the \'pass. These are utterly without verdure. Nothing is \npresented to the eye but ridges of rocks, huge masses of disjointed granite \nthrown into all possible combinations and groups, leaning on each other in \n\n\n\n\nTho Scalp. \n\n\n\n64 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nangular points, projecting in a variety of forms, and in places apparently held so \nloosely in position as to threaten instantaneous descent, bringing havoc in their \ntrain. The sensation, passing through the defile, is of wonder, not unmixed with \nawe, and even terror, at the unpleasant uncertainty as to the safety of the passage. \nOccasionally in the winter, or after heavy rains, crags are precipitated down the re- \nsounding sides, and block up the road until removed by great labor and difficulty. \nAt one side of the pass, a subterranean stream of water murmurs among the \nrocks, until it finds exit into light at the foot of the descent, while in fitful unison \nmay at times be heard overhead the scream of the hawk, the kite, and the raven. \n\nThrough the de- \n- -^ . file is seen the \n\nGolden Spears, \ntwo conical \nmountains which \nare popularly \nknown as the \n"Sugar Loaves." \nThe great Sugar \nLoaf, above four \nmiles distant, is \nespecially prom- \ninent in the view \n\napproaching the Scalp, and, looming directly over the aperture, seems to close up \nand forbid all egress from the Avild gorge, which was formerly one of the natural \nfortresses of the Clan Ranelagh, the sept of the O\'Byrnes, which with the \nO\'Tooles, their correlatives, when driven by the Anglo-Normans from their \noriginal territory in Kildare, took secure hold in the mountain fastnesses and \nvales of Wicklow, swayed their clans for centuries, and were a terror to the \n" English of Dublin." \n\nThe approach to the County Wicklow from the coast side is very picturesque, \nthe sea from Dalkey \xe2\x80\x94 the southernmost extremity of Dublin Bay \xe2\x80\x94 to Bray-Head \nin the foreground below you, and the Wicklow Mountains rising boldly up form- \ning a near background to the picture. It is a portion of the coast line which \ninspires exclamations of pleasure from the voyager, when steaming, after the \nusually rough experiences of the Irish Channel, into Dublin Bay and making \nfor the welcoming piers of Kingstown Harbor. \n\nBray-Head is a noble promontory which rises to the height of eight hundred \n\n\n\n\nBray -Head to tlu " Suga> Loaf\'^rom Dalkey \xe2\x80\x94 North. \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. \n\n\n\n65 \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nr-^. \n\n\n\nfeet above the sea level. Under it nestles \nthe town of P>ra}, a charming suburban \n\\vatering-])lace, esteemed as the most beautiful town in the \ncounty of Wicklow. It is situated on the borders of Dublin \nand Wicklow, the di\\ ision being made b) the Bray (or Dar- \ngle) River, which here forms the boundary between the coun- \nties. The old town, or Little Bray, is on the Dublin side ; and the new \nand handsome town within the borders of Wicklow, to the beauties of \nwhich it adds no slight attraction. It is the most convenient "headquarters" for the \ntourist who desires to visit the scenery for which the county is celebrated, and is \nalso interesting by historical connections with the past. Here, according to good \nauthority, Saint Patrick made his first landing when he came to preach the Gospel ; \nalthough others indicate the place as somewhat more south, at the mouth of the \n5 \n\n\n\n\n66 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nVartry River. However, the Saint proceeded northward, having been repulsed by \na local chief named Nathi. . The " Annals of Clonmacnoise " tells us that on the \nSaint\'s landing at Inver Dea he was opposed by the Leinstermen, one of whom \nstruck one of his companions on the mouth with a stone, and knocked out four \nof his teeth, from which misfortune he was called Mantatus, or the toothless, and \nthe church of Kill-Mantain, now Wicklow, is said to have derived its name from \nhim. \n\nAn ancient bridge connects the old and new towns of Bray, and this was \ndefended in days past by a castle evidently built by the Normans, or their de- \nscendants, as a shield against the O\'Tooles and O\'Brynes, the heroic native septs \nof the district. In 13 15 the clansmen destroyed the usefulness of this castle, \nand about a hundred years subsequently their descendants fought a great battle \nhere with the English of Dublin. The natural beauties of the locality have been \ngreatly improved during the last quarter of a century : terraces, esplanades and \nwalks have been made along the bold coast ; hotels and villas have been erected, \nand every inducement created to attract the wise and the wealthy to partake of \nthe health-giving atmosphere and poetical surroundings. \n\nNowhere is there a more lovely tract of country than that which lies around \nBray ; and there are few portions of mountain scenery more beautiful than that \nwhich encompasses it. From the railway station, but better, from all the more \nelevated lands around the town this fine circular mountain-range can be traced. \nFrom the church, which occupies one of the finest sites imaginable, at the top \nof the town, a panoramic view of the richest scenery is commanded Encircled \nby a range of mountains of varying outline, commencing at Bray-Head, including \nthe two Suear Loafs, Douce, and terminatino- at Shankhill, the mountain line \nis only broken by the Vale of Shanganagh, which appears from this point like a \nthick forest. Killiney, Dalkey Island, and the Hill of Howth, are also in view \nfrom this eminence. \n\nBray owes its latter-day attractiveness to William Dargan, a man who from the \nhumble beginning of a day-laborer, arose to great prominence as a contractor and \nrailway magnate, the encourager of national industry, the projector of the Dublin \nInternational Exposition of 1853, and who declined the honor of knighthood at \nthe hands of Queen Victoria. But a few years ago Bray was composed of fisher- \nmen\'s huts and dwellings, scattered few and far between. Under the practical \ngenius of Dargan, these huts and cabins have given way, as by magical transfor- \nmation, to promenades, terraces, streets and squares. Surrounded by scenery \nof beauty and grandeur, open on one side to the sea, bounded on the south by \n\n\n\nWICKLOW. \n\n\n\n67 \n\n\n\nthe promontory, and inland by the Sugar-Loaf Mountains, overlooking the Valley \nof Diamonds, Bray possesses advantages which, with the improvements already \neffected, and those in progress, indicate it as destined to be one of the most \nattractive places of residence and resort within daily reach of Dublin, and one of \nthe chief watering-places in Ireland. It has been called the " Irish Brighton," \nbut " when we turn to the mountains and the woods, we feel how vastly superior \nare the natural advantages which Bray possesses, and how soon it might be ex- \npected to rival Brighton in every respect, if it were as near the great English \nmetropolis. There is something delightfully exhilarating in the wildness and \nfreshness of the Little Sugar-Loaf and \nBray-Head, as we look down from \ntheir gray rocky cliffs upon the broad \nexpanse of ocean on the one side and \nthe exquisitely beautiful landscape on \nthe other." \n\nA tunnel for the Dublin, Wicklow \nand Wexford Railroad has been cut \nthrough the solid rock of Bray-Head \nunder the engineering directions of \nMr. Brunei. As seen in our illustra- \ntion, the rail-track runs along the \nedge of the cliff, and the abyss below \nand the great elevation above, with the swift motion of the cars, combine to \ngive an exciting interest to the scene. At many places the Head rises almost \nperpendicularly from the sea, and above the railroad a delightful promenade has \nbeen constructed all around it, leading on the southern side by the cliff-path to \nGreystones, another and rapidly rising watering-place some five miles dis- \ntant. \n\nIn the neighborhood of Bray are several noble residences situated among \nfine woods, hills, slopes, and carefully tended grounds, which are well worthy of \ninspection. Their possessors wisely reside here, and taking interest in the wel- \nfare of the district, are justly proud of their efforts to aid the charms of nature. \n\nThe village of Enniskerry, two miles from Bray, situated on the lap of \ngently rising hills, its neat cottages gleaming through bright foliage, presents a \nrefreshing picture. A mountain stream, the Kerry, flows from the village down a \nwooded glen until it mingles with the Glenislorane, or Dargle \xe2\x80\x94 an anglicized cor- \nruption of the words Dot?\'- and Gleann, signifying Oak Valley \xe2\x80\x94 which takes its \n\n\n\n\nA Narrow Gorge in the Dargle. \n\n\n\n68 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nname from the celebrated \nra\\ ine through which it \npasses, and to ^\\hich it \ncontributes so many \nbeautiful and brilliant \neffects. \n\nThe Dargle is per- \nhaps the first, and some- \ntimes the onl) one of \n\n_ the Wicklow glens in- \n\nIn the Dargle. troduced to visitors, and \n\nits celebrity is commensurately extensive. The stream divides two demesnes, \nthose of Powerscourt and Charleville, both beautiful, but the former admirably \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nBRIDGE IN THE DARGLE. \n\n\n\n70 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\n\n\ndeserving the title of magnificent. The Dargle is the great resource of picnic- \nparties from DubHn, for whose comfort Viscount Powerscourt has kindly pro- \nvided tables and seats. The ravine itself is of great depth and about a mile in \nlength, winding among precipitous cliffs and rocks, clothed with overhanging \ntrees and brush, assuming all sorts of fantastic forms, and luxuriantly covered \n\nwith foliage. Here barren rocks \nJi^-iM . jut out over moss-covered \n\nslopes ; and there gnarled bran- \nches of venerable trees hang \nover the stream and reach \nacross it. The foliage some- \ntimes makes a perfect curtain \nshutting out the water, which \nis thus often unseen, but heard \nfretting and foaming through \nthe bowlders far below, which \nsometimes form narrow gorges. \nOn one side the mass of thick \nfoliage rising upward from the \nbrink of the river has called to \nmind Milton\'s line, \n\n\n\n" Verdurous walls of Paradise upraised,\' \n\n\n\nwhile on the other hand the \ncharacter of some portions of \nthe glen, with the unseen river, \nso far below the surface of the \nwoods in which it is lost, might \nsuggest "without any extraordinary stretch of the imagination, it was a river \nin some inner world, laid open by a Titanic throe, that had cracked asunder \nthe rocky crust of this shallow earth ; \xe2\x80\x94 the soil, and the deep-striking roots \nof the trees terminating far above us, looking like a black rim on the inclosing \nprecipices." \n\nAn eagerly sought glimpse of the troubled waters gives no " silvery relief " to \nthe solemn grandeur of their gloom, the stream taking a somber tinge from the \nshadow of the overhanging rocks and dense foliage. Advance but a few steps \nand a delicious change meets the eye \xe2\x80\x94 the water breaking musically over blocks \n\n\n\n\nCaicade in the Dargle. \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. 71 \n\nof granite, flinging up glistening spray, aud pouring forward in successive cas- \ncades, sometimes so narrow that you could easily spring over it, and then widen- \ning into the placid dimensions of a miniature lake. \n\nMidway down the ravine is The Lover\'s Leap, a dizzy precipice, a great \nheight over the river \xe2\x80\x94 from which there is a splendid prospect. From it every \npart of the deep glen below is embraced, gradually expanding on the left to \nthe open champaign, with the blue sea in the distance ; and another charming \nview of the Dargle is from the bottom of the Glen on the margin of one of \nthe miniature lakes in which the waters are confined by a ledge of rocks. Look- \ning up the stream the waters are seen tumbling over a rocky channel, out of the \ndark woods which arise to a vast height on either side, while patches of blue sky \nare occasionally seen through the parting branches overhead. The Moss House \nis the name of a rustic banquet-hall or summer-house, erected on a picturesque \neminence, for the accommodation or shelter of visitors, from which also one of \nthe favorite views of the Dargle strikes the beholder. Immediately beneath him \ngapes a chasm in the huge granite rocks, that seem broken asunder to afford a \npassage to the water that struggles far below over a rocky bed embosomed in \ntrees. Above, a dark and gloomy forest overshadows all. A path from the \nMoss House leads to the water\'s edge at the bottom of the Glen. As seen from \nthe opposite side of the river the prospect at this point is characterized as " in \nthe highest degree sublime." From thence the vale appears deep, retired and \ngloomy. At the feet the crystal stream, and the rocky chasm yawning in front. \n\nThis scenery \xe2\x80\x94 a union of rock, wood and water \xe2\x80\x94 variously sublime, romantic \nand inspiring, continues for a mile to the top of the glen at the bridge, where \nthe road from Enniskerry crosses it at the gate of the Powerscourt demesne. \nThis demesne of fourteen hundred acres, with hill and dale exquisitely ap- \nportioned, and so completely inclosed by mountains as to realize the picture \nof the Happy Valley, can scarcely be equaled anywhere. Unrivaled landscapes \ncan be obtained at numerous points, but some think those from near the en- \ntrance unexcelled. " Here," says an observant tourist, " as we approach the \nHouse, the first break of scenery toward the south is inconceivably grand, soft, \nand various." The avenue winds up a gradual ascent, through undulating \ngrounds, adorned with every variety of shrubs and evergreens, and immense \nold trees, some clothed with ivy. Sugar Loaf and Douce Mountains soon \ncome in view, and proceeding higher we overlook an extensive glen on the \nleft, at the head of which the Powerscourt Mansion is seen. The position is \n.commanding in the extreme. " When we consider," says Walker, " the extent \n\n\n\n^2 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nfe\xe2\x82\xac \n\n\n\n\ni:\'^:^i \n\n\n\nof the Park, stretch- \ning away to the water- \nfall on one side, and up \nthe mountains overlooking \'""- \nEnniskerry on the other, " -=- \n\nwe cannot be surprised if \nroyalty itself should covet an abode like \nthis." Tinnehinch, the former residence of \nthe great orator, Henry Grattan, purchased \nfor him by the Irish at a cost of $250,000, \nis an interesting feature of the landscape. \n\nThe Deer Park at Powerscourt is rich \nin natural beauties, containing many grand \nold oaks, but the noted feature is the cele- \nbrated Powerscourt Waterfall, which breaks \nthrough a gap in the mountain, and over \na nearly perpendicular rock over two hun- \ndred feet high. It forms the extremity of a beautiful semicircular amphitheater \nof wooded mountains, which heighten the splendid effect of the cataract. In \ndry seasons, the fall descends like a thin, transparent vail ; but after a rain, or \n\n\n\nTJu \n\n\n\nGolden Spears, from over the Glen of the \nDowns. \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. \n\n\n\n73 \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n^^ \n\n\n\nin winter, when \nthe mountain \nchannels have \nbeen charged, \nthe water leaps \nforth with tu- \nmultuous fury \n\nm a single arch and with a thun- \ndering roar, which command the \nwonder and delight of the be- \nholder. \n\nTaking the road south from Bray, we pass the \nsplendid evergreen oaks, cypress and yew trees in \nthe desmesne of Hollybrook, pursue our course at \nthe bottom of the valley between the Golden Spears \nMountains, and at about four miles from Bray we enter the romantic pass called \nthe Glen of the Downs. Nothing could afford a stronger contrast to the wild \nand rugged effect of the Scalp than this richly wooded Glen. It is not a fissure \nin the earth like the Dargle, but a pass like the Scalp, only it is much larger and \n\n\n\n\nLough Dan \xe2\x80\x94 }iear view. \n\n\n\n74 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nlonger, extending a mile and a half, and having its bold mountainous sides covered \n\nwith primitive wood, oak, hazel, \nbirch, holly, with masses of modern \nplantation; larch, spruce, and \nScotch fir, and an endless variety \nof luxuriant copse. The bottom \nof the Glen is only the width of \nthe road which leads through it, \nand a small bright stream, the \nendless accompaniment of all the \ncharms of Wicklow. The Glen \nforms part of the demesne of \nBellevue, the property of the La \nTouches, to one of the ladies of \nwhich family the public are in- \ndebted for a free banqueting-hall, \nsituated on a commanding height. \nFrom this " Octagon-house," the \nfinest views are obtained ; the \nglen beneath, rich with tints of \nfoliage and age-dyed rocks, with \n\nthe sea on the east and mountains rising on all other sides, among which the \n\npeaks of the Golden Spears, or Sugar \n\nLoaves as they are popularly called, \n\ntower conspicuously near, the whole \n\npresenting a scene of luxurious soft- \nness, combined with grandeur and \n\nmagnificence. The low road from \n\nthe Glen of the Downs leads to the \n\nvillage of Delgany, which, pleasantly \n\nsituated among beautifully verdant \n\nhills, and with the sea in the distance, \n\npresents a very pleasing view as it \n\ncomes unexpectedly in sight. In its \n\nneatness, accommodations and situa- \ntion, Delgany reminds tourists of " the more favored English localities." \n\nFrom the Powerscourt Deer-Park the tourist can take the hieh road to \n\n\n\n\nPowerscourt Waterfall. \n\n\n\n\nGlen of the Downs \xe2\x80\x94 entrance from South. \n\n\n\nIV/CKLOW. \n\n\n\n75 \n\n\n\n\nDtl^am \n\n\n\nHoundwood, which has become noted as the location of the great reservoir of \nthe DubHn Water-works, by which the pure and soft water of the Vartry is \nsupplied not only to the capital, but to Bray, Kingstown, Blackrock, \nSandymount, and Pembroke Township. The embankment is i,6oo \nfeet long and 500 wide. The basin holds 2,482,810,483 \ngallons of water, being a supply of 12,000,000 gallons daily \n\nfor two hundred - z -^ _^ \n\ndays. At a dis- -^ ~^ ^ ~ \n\ntance the basin \ngleams like a \nlake. But within \na few miles are \ntwo real lakes \xe2\x80\x94 \nLough Tay, or \nLuggelaw, and \nLough Dan \xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x80\xa2 \n\nwhich will well repay the artist. Two miles from Roundwood the ascending- \nroad lies between two mountains. Douce on the north, and Ballenrush on the \n\xe2\x96\xa0south. Up we go for three miles through a bleak, wild, and barren country, \nexpectant, but still wondering where can the talked-of lakes be hid. So, while \ntraveling along a level plateau, having turned from the public road, on a sudden \n\ntwo lakes in a valley far beneath swim \n"^^ into the vision. Sinking as much \n\nbeneath the level of the surrounding \ncountry as the neighboring mountains \nrise above it, are two mighty excava- \ntions forming the beds of Loughs Tay \nand Dan. The sudden development \nof so much beauty is delightfully plea- \nsurable ; and we gaze in wonder at the \nwhole, before we can tame the eye to the varied and contrasting details. A \nglorious vale lies beneath us \xe2\x80\x94 immediately below. Lough Tay or Luggelaw ; \nand stretching to the south, the wild Lough Dan, connected by the river Kil- \nlough, looking from the distance like a white ribbon. Luggelaw is set among \nalmost perpendicular mountains, some of the wildest, some of the richest charac- \nter. One side is luxuriously raimented from the shore to the mountain top by \nevery variety of forest trees, fir, ash, thorn, oak and elm, of gigantic growth and \n\n\n\n\nLough Dan, from Luggelaw. \n\n\n\n76 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nLitggelaw \xe2\x80\x94 the barren side. \n\n\n\nrichness of foliage ; from this side a thousand tiny cascades spring forth, and on \ntheir way to the lake, through rocks, roots and tangled underwood, present num- \nberless delicious fountains. On the \n- _ other side all is bleak and bare, the \n\nheath-covered Douce looming over \nboth. The principal supply of the \nlough is the little Annamoe River, \nwhich, collected from the rills which, \nfurrow the mountain -sides lying \nwestward, flings itself over a rocky \nprecipice at the upper end of the \nlough. In close proximity to this \nwaterfall is Luggelaw Cottage \xe2\x80\x94 "one \nof the most romantic retreats in any country" \xe2\x80\x94 iormerly a mountain residence \nof the La Touches, but now devoted to the purposes of a shooting-lodge in con- \nnection with a leading hotel at Bray, from which during the season an omnibus \nis run, making this charming place easily accessible to many who might other- \nwise never behold it. \n\nThe grounds con- -=\xe2\x80\x94 ^ -- -~ \n\nn e c t e d with this \nlodge embrace the \nentire of the lovely \nbut lonely lough, \nwith all its magni- \nficent boundaries. \nFrom the high road \nabove it, the best \nview of the lough \nwith the vast extent \nof surrounding \nmountains, with the \nreach of the glen between it and Lough Dan, and a portion of the latter, may \nbe obtained. As Fraser remarks, although this part of the road, from its steep- \nness in many places, is ill suited to carriages, " yet from no part is this sublime \nportion of WIcklow scenery so finely displayed." Higher up beyond the cottage \nthe valley closes with a vast amphitheater of rocks. Descending by a sloping \npath through the woods the shore Is reached, and amid the seclusion and beauty \n\n\n\n\nT.oihsJi Dan. \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. \n\n\n\n77 \n\n\n\none realizes that for " mountain grandeur and sylvan loveliness combined, there \nis no spot in Ireland, out of Killarney, equal to this." It is 807 feet above the \nlevel of the sea, and occupies a circular dell of about one hundred and twenty \nacres at the head of the glen. Save in Italy, no small lake is so deep. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n^\'kh\'j \n\n\n\nhi the Vale of CI a 7- a \n\n\n\nLough Dan, 685 feet above the sea level, is about two miles distant from Lug- \ngelaw, and assumes the form of a river less than two miles long and half a mile \nwide, surrounded by the mountains of Knocknacloghole and Scar on the west, \nand Sliev-Buckh on the east. It is in one of the wildest districts, and though. \n\n\n\n\n\n78 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\naccording to general opinion, losing by contrast with the variety of Luggelaw, it \nhas an interest of its own. One of the mountains in which it is embosomed forms, \nat about two-thirds of its line, a headland which must be doubled before the \nremainder of the water becomes visible. The mountains are bare to the \nsummits, in some parts sloping to the water\'s edge, and in others rising abrupt- \nly from, and projecting over the lake, \n- \xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\xa2 *^^^ masses of rock furrowed with the trick- \n\nling moisture of vegetable morasses, \n: ^\'\' " patched with moss and lichen, and pre- \n\nsenting occasionally a solitary ash or \nholly growing out of its fissures. The \nbase of these rocks is in some places \nhollowed into caverns by the action of \nthe waters, which are at , times greatly \nagitated, being more open to the winds \nthan those of Luggelaw. The glen \nJ , \xe2\x80\x9e between the lakes is fertile, beautiful, \n\nLotign Bray. \' \n\nand richly cultivated. \nReturning to the point from which the grand surprise of Luggelaw and \nLough Dan burst on our vision, and continuing the northwest inclination of the \nmountain road, we soon reach Sally-Gap. At the cross-roads, taking the one due \nnorth, and then following it to the east, we cross the infant Liffey, which has its \nrise near by, and have before us the Vale of Glancree, in all its length and breadth, \nwith its mixture of moorland and cultivation ; in the center the Glancree River, \nmade by the surplus water from Lough Bray, as well as the numberless rills and \nstreams that rush down the sides of Kippure Mountain, the chief of the Dublin \nrange, but whose southern side here looms over the Wicklow border. Glancree \nis the highest and one of the best defined of the Wicklow vales. It is wild, soli- \ntary, and in strong contrast, by its heath-clad effect, to the softness which exces- \nsive vegetation has given to others we have noticed. Near the head of the vale, on \nthe left and under Kippure, are the upper and lower Loughs Bray. They are \nsituated in a locality of much wildness, and occupy two deeply secluded dells \nabout halfway up the mountain. The larger (lower) lake has a surface of sixty- \nfour acres, and the upper, of twenty-eight. The former is 1,225 ^"^^ ^^^^ latter \n1,453 f^Gt above the sea level, while the broad brow of Kippure overlooks \nthe lough from an altitude of 1,248, and Seefingen Mountain from 1,139 f^^*^- \nThe darkness of the waters of Lough Bray \xe2\x80\x94 caused by the peat of the surround- \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. 79 \n\ning moorlands \xe2\x80\x94 is intensified by the shadows of the overhanging mountains. In \nthe midst of the gloom and desolation, a charming evidence of human existence, \nin the shape of a picturesque cottage, gives to and takes from the scene a pleas- \ning effect. This romantic residence was the retreat of Sir Philip Crampton, a \nformer Surgeon-General of Ireland, and was presented to him by the Duke of \nNorthumberland, when Viceroy, in memory of pleasant days spent in a cottage \nof humbler pretension on the same site, which was accidentally destroyed by fire. \nThis object truly forms an " oasis in the desert." The view from the road \nnear the lower lake embraces a noble prospect, from the wildness of Kippure \nto the richness of Powerscourt, with the Sugar Loaf beyond ; before us the \nVale of Glancree, and the Mountains of War and Douce to the right (or south). \nBelow us at the head of the vale is Glancree Barrack, one of those built with \nthe military roads by the Government after the national insurrection in 1 798, to \nenable it to cope with and if possible control the mountain chiefs, who, like Michael \nDwyer and Joseph Holt, successfully defied it. The Barrack, however, with \nadditional buildings, is now occupied as a Reformatory for youthful Catholic \nvagrants, who receive instruction in various trades in addition to the ordinary \neducation of the " National Schools." It is the largest institution of the kind in \nIreland, and of somewhat the same nature as the noble Catholic Protectory in \nWestchester County, New York. Great attention is paid to Agriculture at the \nGlancree Reformatory, and it is true that " their labors in clearing, draining, \nsubsoiling, tilling and manuring, under the skillful directions of the officers, have \nconverted a large tract of barren mountain into a garden, which presents in its \ngreen luxuriant crops a wonderful contrast to the savage scene of rocks and \nheather that surround it." \n\nHaving got as far north in Wicklow as we can get in this section, and having \nno desire to clamber over Kippure, which, however, we have done many and \nmany a time, we will resume our pursuit of the picturesque at the southern \nextremity of Lough Dan. Here the infant Avonmore, having brightly sparkled \nthrough the glen between Knocknacloghole and Scar, ffows into the lake, mingles \nwith the Annamoe, and gives its name to the united streams that emerge from it \nas one, and pursues its way through a series of scenes, famous in song \xe2\x80\x94 through \nthe Vale of Clara to Avoca. The little village of Annamoe is remembered as the \nplace where Laurence Sterne had the wonderful escape when a child \xe2\x80\x94 having \nfallen into a mill-race while the mill was going, and having the good fortune of \nbeing swept through unhurt. A short distance from Annamoe is Laragh, per- \nhaps the most central position in the county from which to reach the greater \n\n\n\n8o \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nnumber of its wonderful and beautiful moun- \ntain, lake and glen combinations. Situated in a \nhigh valley in the midst of the mountains, \nwhere several glens of various extent and char- \nacter \xe2\x80\x94 such as the farnous Glendalough, \nGlendassan, which contains the lead \n\n\n\n\n-m \n\n\n\n\nmines of Lug- \nganure, and \nthrough which lies the \nroad to Poul-a-phuca \nand Blessington ; Glen- \nmacanass, leading west \nof Lough Dan, between Scar on the east, \nand Brockagh and Thonelagee Mountains \non the west, through which runs the Military Road , Glen \nAvon, a name given by Mr. James Fraser* to the plain ex- \ntending from Laragh in an easterly and thence northerly Rathdrwn. \ndirection to Sally-Gap, a distance of twelve miles, embracing \n\nLuggelaw and Lough Dan\xe2\x80\x94 fall into the Vale of Clara, Laragh is a notable \ngeographical center. Here the various roads which are carried along these glens \n\n\n\nAuthor of the long-time and favorably Icnown Hcindhooh for Travellers in Ireland, etc. \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. \n\n\n\n8i \n\n\n\nunite, as well as others leading to Roundwood, and east to the Devil\'s Glen, \nthe Glen of Dunran, and Wicklow town ; to Baltinglas through Glenmalure \non the southwest ; and last but not least, southward to that world-famous \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nGUnmaliii c . \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2" scene of enchantment," \xe2\x80\x94 that perhaps best known of all valleys \xe2\x80\x94 Avoca, the \nfirst and second meeting of the waters, and thence to Arklow. Here also, at \nLaragh, the streams that spring from their mountain -sides and water these \nglens, flow into the Avonmore, which then takes its way down the Vale of Clara \n6 \n\n\n\n82 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nwhich extends southward from Laragh to Rathdrum, a six-miles\' reach of that \nlovely combination and diversity of hill, woods and water specially character- \nistic of the sylvan features of Wicklow. \n\nThe Vale of Clara is quite beautiful and in some places romantic, giving the \neye relief after many of the wildly grand though barren prospects on at least two \nof the routes to it. Many fine views of the Avonmore gleaming along under its \noak-clothed banks are presented from the surrounding heights. The hamlet of \nClara is very prettily situated about halfway down the vale, which is bound on the \neast to this point, by the hills under Trooperstown Mountains, and from the \nhamlet to Rathdrum by copse-clad heights which have a very fine effect. On \nthe west the vale lies under the "foot hills" of Kirikee and Carrigliveen. The \ncopse-wood is a striking feature, extending from Moneystown Hill to Rathdrum, a \ndistance of three miles and a half, and having an average of a mile in width. It \nlaps over into the vale of Clara for two miles ; and is almost entirely on the \nestate of the Earl of Fitzwilliam, who is the largest land proprietor in the \ncounty. \n\nThe small town of Rathdrum at the end of the Vale of Clara, by the route \nwe have indicated, is conspicuously and beautifully seated on the west side of the \nAvonmore, and on a steep bank of more than seven hundred and fifty feet. In \nthe olden days of stage and mail coaches the Wexford coach could not enter, but \nhad to turn aside, and reach the higher part of the town by a branch. Even \nafter leveling to meet more modern demands, the long ascent was very severe \non horses. Now, however, the line of the railroad to Wexford crosses the \nAvonmore near this point on a bridge which is a very picturesque object in \nthe scene. One of the handbooks wisely mentions as a recent acceptable \nfeature, a new hotel into which you step from the railway platform. " Erected \non the face of a cliff, chiefly for the accommodation of tourists, it is a desirable \nresting-place for those who wish to explore the district." Other objects of inter- \nest are the handsome new Catholic Church, and the "Flannel Hall" on "Wool \nHill," the summit of the eminence on which the town stands. A writer, sixty \nyears ago, stated that the latter was erected by the Earl Fitzwilliam (in 1793) for \n"the exhibition and sale of woolen yarns, flannels, raw wool, etc., in which articles \na considerable trade is carried on. The periodical fairs or great market days here \nare attended by crowds of dealers from all parts of the island. A very fine wool \nis grown in this part of the country." A writer of to-day supplements this pic- \nture of industry with the following : " The mountainous regions westward of \nthe town, so favorable for sheep-grazing and the production of wool, made it a \n\n\n\nWICKLOW. 83 \n\nsuitable place for a flannel market, and for some time the trade flourished, \npurchasers going there regularly from Dublin. But the hand-loom weaving \ncould not compete with machinery." \n\nLeaving Rathdrum, and taking Fraser with us as a guide, we start for Glen- \nmalure and the ascent to Lugnaquilla, the highest of the Wicklow Mountains. \nMaking for the hamlet of Greenan, which is adjoined by a considerable wood and \nthe demesne of Ballinacor, we strike into the lower part of Glenmalure. The \nglen proper is twelve miles long, that is from the Table Mountain where it \ncommences to the first " Meeting of the Waters " where it has its embozuluire, and \nunites with the Vale of Avoca. Ballinacor is seven miles from the Table Moun- \ntain, and five from the first Meeting of the Waters. Glenmalure is bounded \non the west by a mountain chain of which Croghanmoira and Garraway Stick \nare the highest summits, and on the east by the range of which Kirikee, Mulla- \ncop and Lugduff are the most elevated. The great military road which comes \ndown the Vale of Glancree crosses both the ranges that shelter Glenmalure on \nits route from Laragh to Aughavanagh. The glen is traversed for its entire \nlength by the Avonbeg, which, originating in some springs on the sides of the \nTable Mountain, forms the Ess-fall at the head of the glen, and receiving the \nnumerous rills which trickle and leap down the ravines, pours the collected force \ninto the Avonmore under the umbrageous height of Castle Howard and forms the \nMeeting of the Waters. The character of Glenmalure is as different from that \nof the Dargle or the Downs as it is from the Scalp or Glancree. It is wild but \nimpressive, and the barren rocks rise in picturesque forms which give "a savage \ngrandeur to the scene." \n\nThis is true of the upper part ; but in fact Glenmalure has two distinct \nfeatures ; one above, and the other below Ballinacor. Below it the landscape \nis undulating, soft, cultivated, beautiful. Here it is of considerable breadth, \nthe hills lower, the sides widely displayed and the mountains gracefully ex- \ntended on either side : it is a sunny valley \xe2\x80\x94 the sweet and natural precursor \nto the Vale of Avoca. Above Ballinacor the scenery assumes that character \nof wildness generally associated with the name of Glenmalure. It becomes \nnarrower and deeper. Except in the passes the mountains have an average \nheight of 2,200 feet, and their precipitous sides are only broken by chasms and \nravines which add to their barren aspect and pictorial effect. Passing Ballinacor \nupward we reach the solitary inn of Drumgoff, "where," says Fraser, "tourists \ngenerally stop," for the safe reason, doubtless, that " good accommodation is \nafforded." The most interesting features of Glenmalure commence here to \n\n\n\n84 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nattract our attention, and hence for seven miles to the base of Table Mountain, \na continuation of magnificent close mountain scenery commands our enthusiastic \nand artistic appreciation. Many tourists are unanimous in the belief that there \nis no glen in Wicklow comparable with this portion of Glenmalure : and one, \nquoted in Bartlet, in view of the Ess-fall springing down the precipitous face of \nthe mountain, says, that " with the exception of the Killeries in Connemara," the \nhead of Glenmalure " is not to be equaled in the kingdom." In none of the \nother Wicklow glens do the mountains assume such well-defined outlines, and at \nthe same time attain to such elevations. Nowhere is the prevailing character of \nthe place less disturbed by the traces of cultivation, the attempts at improvement, \nand other unaccording circumstances ; nowhere is the repose so profound, and \nthe scenery so striking ; nowhere do we appear to be so embosomed in moun- \ntains ; nor do we \xe2\x80\x94 continues Fraser \xe2\x80\x94 remember any other combination of natu- \nral objects in the glen scenery of the district so capable of awakening emotions \nof awe and sublimity. In seasons when the thousands of rills and torrents are \nfed with water, the numberless cascades inconceivably enhance the general effect, \nadding a restless radiance of beauty to the grandeur of the glen. The road \nthrough the glen becomes a mere bridle-path in its mountain ascent. It leads \nover the Table Mountain at an elevation of 2,266 feet. The views from differ- \nent points on the ascent, and especially from the summit, which commands the \nglen of I male, into which the road leads on the other side, will amply repay the \ntourist. \n\nGlenmalure was the fastness of the famous Feagh Mac Hugh O\'Byrne, a chief \nof the sixteenth century. Spenser recommended Queen Elizabeth to spare neither \nmeans nor men to extirpate this dashing chief. In 1580 an English expedition \nfor this purpose under Lord Arthur Grey, then Lord Deput3^ Sir Peter Carew, \nand others, was almost annihilated by the Irish under Feagh Mac Hugh, and Fitz \nEustace Viscount Baltinglass, at this locality, which some writers erroneously \nstate as having occurred at Glendalough. \n\nReturning to the central hamlet of Laragh we are within a mile and a \nhalf of the famous Glendalough or Valley of the two Lakes, or " the seven \nChurches," as it is variously called. Glendalough, which embraces a hamlet, \nmany ruins and a round tower, is situated in the heart of " the O\' Byrne\'s Coun- \ntry," in the territorial subdivision now known as the barony of Ballinacor, some \ntwenty-two miles from Dublin. The valley is about two miles and a half long, \nand varies from half a mile to a mile in width. It is bounded on the north by \nthe mountains of Brocagh, Glendassan, and Comaderry, and on the south by \n\n\n\nI I \n\n\n\nI I \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthose of Derrybawn and Lugduff : and except at the entrance between Brocagh \nand Derrybawn it is completely hemmed in by these lofty, wild, bare and precip- \nitous elevations. The most unimpressionable visitor cannot fail to be affected \nby the solemn and melancholy aspect of the scene as he approaches. Here the \nChristian religion and literature flourished at a very remote period \xe2\x80\x94 and even \ncivilizations before that era have left their mark here. St. Kevin, to whose \nfaith and energy the Christian glory of the valley is due, and whose name is \nsynonymous with both the extent and asceticism of the monastic life, flourished \nin the sixth century. He was born of Christian parents in 498 ; trained for the \n\nChristian ministry, among \ndevoted teachers, priests \nand hermits, and having \nerected a monastery at \nClon-duach, returned to his \nnative locality and founded \nhis chief establishment in \nGlendalough, according \nto Usher and Harris in \nthe year 549. From this \nwere derived several other \nreligious houses in Leinster. \nSt. Kevin, having well arranged the order and discipline of this institution at \nGlendalough, retired to the upper part of the valley, about a mile from the \nAbbey, and there, in a small place beset by thick trees and refreshed by rivu- \nlets, he led the life of a hermit for four years, practicing great austerities, until \nprevailed on to return to the Abbey, where, with the exception of some short \nvisits to other monasteries, he continued to reside until his death. This event \ntook place on the 3d of June, 618, when the saint had attained the age of \none hundred and twenty years. \n\nDuring St. Kevin\'s lifetime a considerable city had grown up here, and the \nplace became an episcopal see either then or shortly after his death, for some \nwriters assert that he was never consecrated bishop. Glendalough subsequently \nbecame celebrated as a seat of learning and piety ; and the reputation of its \nfounder was such that for several centuries vast multitudes continued to repair to \nit on every 3d of June to celebrate his festival. \n\nPope Alexander HI., by a bull dated the 13th of May, a. d. 1179, confirms \nthe city of Glendalough, with the churches, to Malchus, Bishop of Glendalough, \n\n\n\n\nThe Abbey, or Priory of St. Saviour. \n\n\n\nWICKLOW. \n\n\n\n87 \n\n\n\nand to his successors, saving the rights of the abbot. In 12 14, the See of Glenda- \nlough was united to that of DubHn, but the archbishops of the latter being Eng- \nlish, the Irish would only recognize the authority of the Bishops of Glendalough ; \nand it was near the end of the fifteenth century before a union was established. \n\nDuring the ninth and tenth centuries Glendalough was repeatedly ravaged by \nthe Danes ; within sixty years in the eleventh century it was five times reduced \nby fire to a heap of ashes ; it was also ravaged in the thirteenth and fourteenth \ncenturies by the English ; and under incessant incursions it finally fell into decay. \nThe ruins of the churches alone remain. \n\nNo vestige of the famous " city " was visible a few years back save a small \npaved quadrangle which indicated the site of a market-place. No traces of do- \nmestic buildings have been discov- \nered, but the remains of a causeway, -^^^g\' ^i4 ~:^^^^ \nextending from the ancient market- \nplace to Hollywood, some twenty \nmiles distant on the borders of the \nCounty Kildare, were recently visi- \n"ble. This laborious work of art \nwas twelve feet wide, composed \nof roughly-hewn blocks of stone set \nedgewise, not unlike the Roman \nroads met with in England. The \ntemples of stone which the holy men of the ancient Church in Ireland were \nwont to build to the glory of God were constructed in such a manner as to \nconvey the idea that their founders intended they should " last forever." At \nGlendalough, as at other kindred establishments of about the same era, we find \nonly the remains of strictly ecclesiastical edifices. \n\nWe meet the first of the " ruins " on the Laragh road, at about a mile east \nof the Cathedral in the glen cemetery. It is called " the Monastery," by the \npeople, and is variously known as the Abbey, and the Priory of St. Saviour. It \nis the most interesting of the detached buildings outside of the group near the \nlake ; and is perhaps architecturally the finest, as it was evidently the most exten- \nsive of all the edifices in this region. It consisted originally of two parallel \nbuildings, of rare and beautiful workmanship, adorned with curious sculptures, of \nwhich only detached fragments are now attainable. Two of its columns remain, \ntheir capitals exhibiting the ornamental style of the ninth and tenth centuries. \nThese, says Wakeman, in England would be pronounced Norman, more particu- \n\n\n\n\nSi. Kevin\'s Kitchen. \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nOur Lady\'s Church \xe2\x80\x94 Doorway. \n\n\n\nlarly as the arch they are designed to sustain displayed a variety of the zigzag- \nor chevron molding, as may be seen from several stones. A great mass of \n\nsculptured blocks are scattered about, over- \ngrown with brush and brambles. Some speci- \nmens found in the vicinity, though rude, are of \ngreat interest. " On one stone is represented \na wolf gnawing a human head ; on another, \nthe head of a young man, whose long hair is \nentwined with the tail of the animal." The \ncharacter of the hair is supposed to represent \nthe ancient Irish coulin or glibb, and its at- \ntachment to the wolf\'s tail an allegorical form \nof showing "the fondness of the one for the \npursuit of the other." The Abbey is now in the \ndemesne of Derrybawn ; and adjacent to it, in a \nsmall crypt, was recently found the tomb \nof St. Kevin. The Trinity or Ivy Church, \nwhich stands close by the roadside near the \nvillage, should be carefully studied, as it constitutes a very well-preserved \nexample of undecorated work of the earliest, or very nearly the earliest, \nage of church architecture in \nIreland. It consists of nave \nand choir, connected together \nwith a perfectly Roman - look- \ning arch. There was originally \na semi-detached round tower \nor belfry, at the southwestern \nangle of the nave, making the \nthird example of that curious \nstyle of building which we know \nto have existed at Glendalough. \nOn an eminence sloping from \nthe mountains toward the \nlake the principal ruins with the \nround tower form a group which affects us with somber and even melancholy \nsensations. An American writer says that " the almost deathly quiet, the op- \npressive loneliness, the strange, deep, unearthly gloom of this moldering city \n\n\n\n\nThe Church of Rhcfcart. \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. 89 \n\nof the dead, are things to h& felt in all their melancholy and weird-like power, but \nwhich could scarcely be pictured by the most vivid word-painting." Its solemn \nsolitariness is almost overpowering. It is intrinsically a place of the past. No \nplace we have seen so sadly speaks to us of the past : and we do not wonder that \nWalter Scott stood with folded arms \xe2\x80\x94 lost in thought for more than half an hour, \nbefore the doorway of the " Lady Church." The principal group of ruins \xe2\x80\x94 consist- \ning of the round tower, the Cathedral, the Lady Church, Saint Kevin\'s Church, \nor "kitchen," as it is called, and a small inclosure called the Sacristy, used as a \nburial-place for Roman Catholic clergymen \xe2\x80\x94 stand in a well-tenanted cemetery, \nthe entrance to which is over the Glendassan River and through an archway, a \nportion of the ancient fortified wall. This gateway originally consisted of an \nouter and inner arch, similar to the celebrated Newport gate at Lincoln, in Eng- \nland, which is undoubtedly of Roman workmanship. These arches were sur- \nmounted by a tower. The outer portal, after long threatening to fall, came to \nthe ground not many years ago. \n\nThe great round tower is of course the most prominent feature of the central \ngroup. It is a splendid specimen, standing a little to the southwest of the cathe- \ndral. It is one hundred and ten feet high and fifty-one feet in circumference at \nthe base. It had originally six floors. The doorway head is semicircular and \ncut out of a single stone. It is built of granite, and of a hard kind of slate \nwedged in behind the granite blocks. The conical cap by which it was sur- \nmounted was blown down by a storm in 1804. To those who believe in the pre- \nChristian origin of the round towers in Ireland, as many of the ablest anti- \nquaries, architects and archseologists do, the contrast which this remarkable pagan \nmonument presents towering over all the. Christian ruins in the valley, whether \nof ecclesiastical or sepulchral character, is sure to lead the mind into the mys- \ntical depths .of the past. " Nothing is clearer," says O\'Donovan, the eminent \nIrish scholar and archseologist, " than that Patrick engrafted Christianity on the \npagan superstitions with so much skill, that he won the people . over to the \nChristian religion before they understood the exact difference between the two \nsystems of belief." Upon the festivals of the heathen were erected Christian \nholy-days, elevated and rendered attractive by Christian solemnities. A train \nof suggestive thoughts growing out of these facts, are the natural result of a \ncogitation surrounded by these ruins of Glendalough. Men of less vivid tem- \nperament than Otway, can readily sympathize with his mood in association \nwith the scene and the ruins, "where the long continuous shadow of the \nlofty and slender tower moves slowly from morn to eve over wasted churches. \n\n\n\n90 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nscattered yew-trees, and the tombs, now undistinguishable, of bishops, abbots, \nand anchorites, walking its round as time-sentinel, and telling forth to the An- \ncient of Days how many suns have run their diurnal and annual course since \nthese holy men had descended to their graves." \n\nThe cathedral, as may be expected, is the great stone church of the establish- \nment, although the smallest of ecclesiastical structures in the country which have \nbeen dignified by the title of "cathedral." The upper portion of its walls ap- \npears to be less ancient than the lower, which has all the character of very early \nwork. In the decoration of the more modern part an Irish style of ornamenta- \ntion of about the twelfth century is distinctly marked. The nave is forty-eight \n\nfeet long by thirty wide, and \na semicircular arch formed \nthe chancel. \n\n" St. Kevin\'s Kitchen," \na very curious stone-roofed \nbuilding standing at a little \ndistance to the south of the \ncathedral, is believed by the \nbest antiquaries who have \ninspected the ruins of Glen- \ndalough to have been a \nhouse of the saint converted \ninto a church in the twelfth \ncentury. The original structure appears to have been a plain oblong, to which \na chancel and sacristy were added ; certain it is that the additions cannot be later \nthan the twelfth century, and that what was originally the east end of the build- \ning was ait through for the purpose of forming a choir-arch. The upper portion \nof the original eastern window remains. \n\nIt is supposed that the stone roof, and the little miniature round tower belfry \nstanding upon the western gable, are additions of the same date as the chancel. \nTaking it altogether, St. Kevin\'s Kitchen is a most curious antiquarian study, \nand is of similar construction to St. Douloughs, near Dublin, Cormac\'s Chapel on \nthe Rock of Cashel, and the Crypt at Killaloe. Its unromantic name is of no \ngreat antiquity, and was probably suggested by the chimney-like appearance of \nthe bell-turret. \n\nWhat remains of our Lady\'s Chapel, which must have been originally a \nsmall building, is of great interest. This is the church which his monks erected \n\n\n\n\nSt. Kevin\'s Cell. \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. 91 \n\nfor the saint when they wished to induce him to abandon that more solitary por- \ntion of the valley where the Rhe-feart Church still exists. This venerable relic of \nancient Christian architecture, the doorway through which St. Kevin must have \npassed perhaps several times daily for years, and through which his dead body \nmust have been carried for interment, remains still quite perfect, a splendid \nspecimen of that style of building which our ancestors derived from works of \na pagan time, such as the great prehistoric monuments of New Grange and \nDowth, where, for countless ages, \n\n" Beneath the cairn\'s gray pyramid \nThe urns of mighty chiefs lay hid." \n\nThe sides and top of the opening are ornamented with a flat projecting band, and \nthe soffit of the lintel with a cross. The masonry is truly cyclopean, and would \nseem to have been raised by builders who still retained a tinge of the Druidical \nfondness for the massive and time-defying. \n\nThe Rhe-feart Church, as its name indicates, stands in the royal cemetery, \nRhe-feart signifying the kings\' burial-place. Like the " Lady Church," it consists \nsimply of one oblong apartment with a square-headed doorway with inclined \nsides placed in the center of the west gable. This doorway is not ornamented \nwith a cross, but a portion of a projecting band, similar to that of the " Lady \nChurch," decorates it externally. Beyond some plain unimportant crosses, the \nsurrounding cemetery does not, at least above ground, contain any memorial of \nthe kings, chieftains, and ecclesiastics here interred. The interior, however, is \novergrown with briers. Some writers allude to an oblong slab which bore an \nIrish inscription to the effect that it marked " the resting-place of King Mac \nToole, who died in Jesus Christ, loio." A later writer says the last inscribed \nmonument which remained was, some few years ago, broken into small pieces \nand sold by the " guides " of Glendalough, chiefly to English curiosity-seekers, \nas portions of the tomb of a " real Irish king." \n\nNot far from the Rhe-feart Church is a portion of a ruin \xe2\x80\x94 a circle of stones of \nthat class of buildings usually called Claughawn, which there is reason to believe \nformed the cell of St. Kevin during a portion of his rule over "the Churches." \nThe most singular remains of this description, however, is at the sylvan glen \nbetween the mountains of Lugduff and Derrybawn, where the Poolanass brook \npours its little torrent over a ledge of rocks, and forms a sparkling fall. The ruin \ndiscloses masses of flat stones regularly laid, forming part of a circle, in the cen- \nter of which are the remains of a rude stone cross. It is known as St. Kevin\'s cell. \n\n\n\n92 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nAs it is situated in a rock which juts outward, the view of the valley in all direc- \ntions from this point is magnificent. Descending to the lake shore here, one of \nthe most comprehensive views of the overhanging mountains is to be found. \n\nOf the remaining churches, Temple-na-Skellig and the priest\'s house are so \ndilapidated as not to require any especial description. The latter, we may say, \nfrom drawings made about the middle of the last century, was very peculiar and \nrichly decorated. The former, "the Temple of the Rock," or, as it is called in \nold records, " Convent de Deserto," is situated in a solitary nook, almost inacces- \nsible save by water, under the impending mountain of Luo-duff. \n\nAs at Killarney every- \nthing is associated with the \nwise prince O\'Donoghue, at \nGlendalough everything \nis linked with Saint Kevin. \nLegends are associated \nwith his churches, his cell, \nhis well, his basin, his keeve, \nhis bush, his chair, etc., \nbut that connected with \nhis bed has won perennial \nfame in the regions of ro- \nmance. St. Kevin\'s Bed \nis a small excavation, made, it is said by the saint himself, in the front \nof a rock under Lugduff, and overhanging the dark lake, at a height of thirty \nfeet. Access to it is had from above, or below; the latter path from the \nlake shore is difficult ; while the former\' is dangerous, the approach being \nby a narrow path along the steep side of the mountain, at every step of \nAvhich the slightest false movement or unsteady balance would precipitate the \npedestrian into the lake. "There is one place in particular," says one of the ad- \nventurers, " where all the eloquence of the guide is sure to be exerted to encour- \nage the party, and where it frequently proves unsuccessful \xe2\x80\x94 that is the edge of \nthe rock called the Lady\'s Leap." After passing this Rubicon, the landing-place \nabove the cave is soon reached, but the descent to it must be made with great \ncaution ; keeping the face to the rock down which we climb. The present writer, \nin the " hey-day of his youth," made the adventure, and succeeded in what \nwas then deemed the feat of getting into St. Kevin\'s Bed, without a guide and \nby the mountain path. The excavation is capable of holding two persons in a \n\n\n\n\nSt. Kevin\'s Bed. \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. \n\n\n\n93 \n\n\n\n\nrecumbent position, \nand the difference of \nthe modes of getting into it may be \nsuggested b> the getting into a small \ndormer window from below by means of \na ladder, or from above by means of the \nroof. This rocky and isolated refuge \nSaint Kevin made \xe2\x80\x94 according to tradition \xe2\x80\x94 to conceal himself from the visits of \na beautiful maiden Kathleen. Here he fled from temptation. But the "eyes of \nmost unholy blue " from which he fled, led their lovely owner to this " rocky, \nwild retreat." \n\n" And when morning met his view, \nHer mild glances met it too." \n\n\n\nAncie7tt Stone Cross, and Round Towe?-, at \nGlendaloush. \n\n\n\nIn the sudden shock of surprise and anger on awaking, the saint hurled the \n\n\n\n94 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\npersistent beauty from the beetling rock into the dark waters of the lake. Moore \nintroduced this legend to popularity in a vividly dramatic ballad, and the tempta- \ntion of young Kevin and the tragic catastrophe have been admirably treated by \nGerald Griffin. The legend thus brought home to the senses in such poetical \nforms, had its origin doubtless in an allegory based on truth \xe2\x80\x94 to illustrate the \nfact that here in his solitude and gloomy retirement his vows of asceticism be- \ncame strengthened, he conquered the passions incident to youth and tenderness, \nrose defiant to the temptations of worldly beauty, fascination, and danger, and \nby an ecstatic effort hurled them from his path forever. This self-denial and \nfervor led to a life of extraordinary virtue and piety, which resulted in miracu- \nlous powers. These, says the Monasticon Hibernicum, drew " multitudes from \ntowns and cities, from ease and affluence, from the cares and avocations of civil \nlife and from the comforts and joys of society, to be spectators of his pious acts \nand sharers in his merits, and with him to encounter every severity of climate \nand condition. This influence extended even to Britain, and induced St. Moch- \nnarog to convey himself hither ; who fixed his residence in a cell on the east side \nof Glendalough, where a city soon sprang up, and a seminary was founded, from \nwhence were sent forth many saints and exemplary men, whose sanctity and \nlearning diffused around the Western world that universal light of letters and \nreligion which, in the earlier ages, shone so resplendent throughout this re- \nmote, and at that time tranquil isle, and were almost exclusively confined to it." \nAmong the interesting relics of the cemetery of ruins is an ancient cross of one \nsolid block of granite eleven feet high. Fragments of other crosses are scattered \nabout, and a line of them across the valley between the two lakes can still be \ntraced. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0\xe2\x96\xa0 With Vandal Time, tlieir sculptures rude \nBut sacred combat well ; \nLike trusty friends, they have outstood \nThe wealth that from us fell. \n\n" These crosses, like great note-marks, stand \nO\'er all the Celtic sod. \nGrown gray in agony of love \nReferring us to God." \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 " Eva : A Goblin Romance," Part I. \n\nThe principal group of ruins, as seen in the engraving, are romantically situ- \nated at the juncture of Glendassan and Glendalough, and near where the streams \nwhich water those glens unite. As the name indicates, there are two loughs: \n\n\n\nWICKLOW. 95 \n\nthe lower of small extent, the upper a mile in length, a quarter of a mile in \nwidth, and 441 feet above the sea level. The mountains like stupendous walls \narise on both sides some eighteen hundred feet. The upper lake is supplied \nby two streams, the Poolanass, which has been referred to, and the Glanealo, \nwhich, rushing down the gorge between the summits of Comaderry and Lugduff, \ndashing and foaming through the crags and masses of broken rocks which are \nheaped in wild disorder at that end of the glen \xe2\x80\x94 forms a strikingly picturesque \nfall as it leaps into the lake. The Glenealo is the infant Avonmore, and takes \nthat name when, after uniting with the Glendassan, it passes under Derrybawn \nBridge, and leaves this glen of gloom and desolation. We cannot rehearse the \nmany legends associated with Glendalough, or dwell on the more authentic trans- \nactions of history which embrace the wonderful defiance of the native septs of this \nterritory for centuries of all foreign interference. One fact alone must suffice to \nindicate this prolonged conflict and spirit of independence. " Glendalough, the \ncapital of the sept which had inherited those glens, is only twenty-three miles from \nthe metropolis, the seat of the English power ; and yet they continued to defy that \npower unconquered for four centuries." On leaving the scene of so much learning \nand energy, peaceful pursuits and warlike experience, we are inclined to agree \nwith Mr. Walker that the general impression left by the locality is one of sadness. \n"The aspect of the surrounding mountains being so much in keeping with \nthe ruins scattered over the valley, and speaking of power, of art, and piety, in \nages so remote that history affords no authentic records of their authors or \norigin. The gloomy lake, and the cold, stern mountains seem to be in a sort of \nmysterious communion with the ivy-clad towers and broken arches of the ruined \ntemples, still haunted by human associations which produce a painful sense of \ndesolation." \n\nRetracing our steps from Laragh to Roundwood, we can follow the course of \nthe Vartry River to where it forms the boundary between the demesnes of Bal- \nlycurry and Glenmore and flows through the Devil\'s Glen, which according to \nBrewer might more appropriately have been denominated the " Glen of the Gods." \nThe Vartry rises on the southern side of the great Sugar Loaf, receives a tribu- \ntary from a thousand feet up the eastern side of Douce with other rivulets, \nand after increased volume, and a rapid course over a high table-land and rough \nmoors, is precipitated over a ledge of rocks with a splendid fall into the Devil\'s \nGlen. This ravine is of somewhat the same character as the Dargle, with which \ncomparisons are necessarily made. It is, however, deeper and longer, being a \nmile and a half in length, and in some places the sides rise to an elevation \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nof four hundred feet. It is more somber than the Dargle, and has a grand \nwaterfall at its upper end, which the other glen does not possess. The lower \nentrance is through a tunnel, and as the approach is concealed by luxuriant foli- \nage, the spectator is unprepared for the beautiful scene that bursts upon the sight. \n\n\n\nWICK LOW. \n\n\n\n97 \n\n\n\nIn a like manner the view of the glen, approached from the high, bleak, \nand barren lands above it, has all the attractiveness of strong contrast. All \naround is a bare tract of sheep-pasture ; a few steps forward, and the eye be- \nholds a picture presenting all that is rich in vegetation, varied in sylvan tints, \nbold in rocks and cliffs, and enlivened by a stream bounding and foaming \namongst the rocks, gliding between grassy banks, or hiding under the umbrageous \nbranches of natural wood. The best views are obtained from the glen road \nascending to the fall. Brewer * thought the Devil\'s Glen " one of the most ro- \nmantic objects in an island fertile of subjects for the inspiration of romance." \n^^ Impending rocks and moun- \ntains and a river flowing \nthrough a narrow channel \nform the striking features \nof this favorite locality. It \nhas beauties peculiarly its \nown, and the same writer \non the picturesque in natu- \nral scenery thinks "it is \nmarked by some combina- \ntions of pictorial objects in \nwhich wood, rock, and \nwater are blended in forms \nunknown " in either the Dargle or Glen of the Downs. Other English writers \nare equally enthusiastic in acknowledging its beauty \xe2\x80\x94 " with its roaring river, \nits huge precipices, its circuitous paths, and the noble and graceful \'fall\' \nthat seems a crown of glory to its head." A distinguished Spaniard, Dr. D. \nJoaquin Lorenzo Vi\'llanueva, has celebrated this glen in an ode, in which, after \nalluding to the most noted and charming places of his native land, he says : \n\n\n\n\nEntrance to the Devil\'s Glen. \n\n\n\n"But I, \'mid the bosky shadows \n\nOf the Devil\'s Glen, defy the splendor \nOf all earth\'s mounts and rneadows. \nFor a perfect peace doth lend her \nCharms supreme \xe2\x80\x94 there laughter\'s hushed and grief itself grows tender."! \n\n* Beauties of Ireland, by J. N. Brewer, 2 vols., Lond. 1S26. \nf " Mas yo con el sombrio \n\nBosque de Devil\'s Glen y su bastida \nAl orbe desafio ; \n\nDo reina una cumplida \nPaz, hierve el gozo v el pesar se olvida." \n\n\n\n98 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n"Than Pindus, theme of poets, \n\nLeafier this vale; than Pimplea clearer \nIts crystal waves that sow its \nBreast with diamond gleams, and here are \nSilvery sands and pebbles bright than which there\'s nothing dearer.\' \n\n\n\nMidway in the glen, at a suitably chosen spot a sort of rustic temple has been \nerected, which is equally available for calm contemplation when the visitor is \nalone, or for the gayer purposes of social enjoyment when on a picnic frolic \nand the sky is threatening. From this temple a \ncharming walk has been constructed along the up- T - \n\nper part of the wood, in the course of which many \nfine views are attainable. On leaving the Devil\'s \nGlen, the Vartry, passing through a rude amphi- \ntheater, has time, so to speak, to rest after its \nturbulent exertions, thence, flowing onward, beau- \ntifies the demesne of Glenmore, and passing r^, \nAshford- bridge and Newrath- bridge, exhausts \nitself into the Broad Lough, a tidal marsh near \nthe town of Wicklow. Between Ashford and \nNewrath it flows through the demesne of Ro- \nsanna, famous for its venerable trees, among \nwhich are some of the finest oaks and Spanish \nchestnuts in the country. Famous for the pos- \nsession of those woods in which all poets de- \nlight, Rosanna is still more famous as the home of a lovely and gifted Irish \npoetess, Mary Tighe, who here wrote her beautiful and imaginative poem Psyche, \nfounded on the classic allegory of Love and the Soul. It is written in the Spen- \nserian stanza, and is characterized by elegance, classical taste, a wealth of graceful \nimagery, and a brilliancy of coloring rarely excelled. Chambers says that she \n"evinced a more passionate and refined imagination than any of her tuneful \nsisterhood." " Was not Tighe an angel," exclaims one of the critics of the \nNodes AmbrosiancB, "if ever there was one on earth \xe2\x80\x94 beautiful, airy, and evanes- \ncent as her own immortal Psyche?" Lovely and accomplished Mrs. Tighe in \nyouth had mixed with the gay world, but extreme sensibility, crowned by a \nhappy marriage, led her to retirement. She was an invalid for several-years, and \nMoore has made her early death the subject of the exquisite lyric, " I saw thy \nform in youthful pride," concluding : \n\n\n\n\nHtad of Dtvil s Glen. \n\n\n\nWICKLOW. \n\n\n\n99 \n\n\n\n" If souls could always dwell above, \n\nThou ne\'er hadst left that sphere ; \nOr could we keep the souls we love, " \n\nWe ne\'er had lost thee here, Mary ! \nThough many a gifted mind we meet, \n\nThough fairest forms we see. \nTo live with them is far less sweet \n\nThan to remember thee, Mary." \n\nRosanna, Avondale, Glenmalure and the Vartry naturally Inspired the expres- \nsion of Mrs. Tighe\'s admiration. The chestnut bowers of the former were nota- \nble in her day, at the beginning of \nthe century, and their broad shadows \n- to-day are evidence of ancient ances- \n\ntry and of a long reign of care and \npeace in this happy valley. \n\nConvenient to the Devil\'s Glen, and \non its northeast is the Glen of Dunran, \nwhich exhibits features of interest, es- \npecially when we learn that within less \nthan a century a scene as rocky as \nthe Scalp has been transformed by \nart into one of attractive vegetation, \ntrees having been planted in the inter- \nstices of the rocks, where to all appear- \nance there was scarcely soil enough to \ncover the roots. The narrow ravine \nstretches along the base of Carrig na \nMuck, the ridge on the opposite side \nlying in front of the higher summit of \nDunran. The avenue, through which strangers are permitted to drive, runs \nthrough the demesne of Dunran, and is about two miles in length parallel to the \npublic road. \n\nThe Glen of Dunran differs from all those we have been describing; in its \npeculiar conformation on the one hand, aiid in its exceptional want of a stream \nflowing through it; which is owing to its altitude. It is nevertheless everywhere \ninteresting, from the finely wooded and romantic steeps along the base of which \nwe travel : particularly at the eastern entrance, where by some natural upheaval \nthe stratified rocks have been tilted up on end, and from various points of view \n\n\n\n\nthe Dcvil s Lrhn \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\npresent singular and grotesque forms : some bearing striking resemblances to \ntowers, spires, minarets and fortifications. From the artificial pond near the \ncenter of the ravine, a path winds for about half a mile through the wood lead- \ning to the ascent by which the View Rock is reached. From this point the view \nis, as may be expected, well worth the trouble to obtain it. Here, you command \nthe rich country stretching from the base of the hill to Wicklow town ; the ex- \ntensive oak wood which clothes the sides of Carrig na Muck, and constitutes the \nprincipal feature \n\nof the ravine ; y-=^^^^qy^ ::it^ \n\nand the sterile \nrocks Avhich rise \nfrom the wood \nto the summit of \nthe mountain of \nDun ran. The \nfine forest scene \nwhich is here \npresented to our \nview, is greatly \nheightened by \nthe dark foli- \nage of the old \npines scattered \nthrough it, and \nwhich clothe \nthe conical rock \n\nforming the eastern boundary of the ravine, where the upheaved strata referred \nto are so strikingly prominent in a variety of shapes. The summit of Dunran \nis 1,122 feet above the level of the sea, and a good view of the beautiful tract \nof country from the base of the mountain to Delgany is obtained from the high \nground near the northern entrance to the glen. Fraser recommends those who \nhave not had the prospect from the View Rock to take the high road by Dunran \nHouse to the Glen of Kiltymon on the north, on which the views are better than \nfrom the lower roads along the route.* \n\nWhile in this vicinity, reference may be made to the man}\' fine demesnes \nin the neighborhood of Newtown-Mount-Kennedy, a couple of miles north of \n\n\n\n\nThe View Rock, Dunran. \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Fraser\'s Hand-book, p. 1S5. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n^-.^T_^^\'l \n\n\n\n\nWATh.Ki-Al_J_ IN THE DEVIL\'S GLEN. \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nDunran ; and situated in the center of that rich tract lying between the Downs \nMountain and the hill of Delgany on the north, the secondary range of hills \nwhich sweep from the Downs to Dunran on the west and south, and the sea on \nthe east. Of these variously attractive places, the most noticeable are Wood- \nstock, Mount Kennedy, Glendaragh, Altadore, which are enlivened by pleasant \nstreams. In a glen of the latter, called the Hermit- \nage, is a waterfall which is esteemed the special \nattraction of a retreat otherwise deemed delicious. \nRathdrum or Drumgoff is usually chosen as the \n\\, starting-point for the ascent of Lugnaquilla, which \nrises to the height of 3,039 feet, and is one of the \nfive mountains in Ireland which lift their heads one \nthousand yards above the level of the sea. On the \nroute described Drumgoff is of course the nearest \nplace : and on leaving the inn we soon pass the lonely \nbarrack, take the military road toward Aughavanagh, \nand after a short distance turn to the right and climb \nthe front of Drumgoff Hill. Having reached the top, \nthe course lies northward, following the bed of a moun- \ntain torrent up a sloping vale for a considerable dis- \ntance. Kelly\'s Lough, a small pond in a hollow, is next passed, and then a steep \nprecipice of loose rubble stone and long grass tests the powers of endurance of the \ntourist. Surmounting this steep, and gaining the ridge above it, the dark cliffs of \nLugnaquilla come in sight ; thence a smooth sod leads to the summit, so that, with \nthe exception of a comparatively brief space, the ascent, if the weather is favora- \nble, does not present many great difificulties to the persistent sight-seer. The \nmountain top embraces a large extent of table-land, and the highest point is \nmarked by a stone, called Pierce\'s Table, resting on low supporters, some- \nwhat resembling a Druidical cromlech. From the summit a very splendid and \nextended panorama is unrolled on all sides. Toward the north, facing the glen \nof Imale, the side is broken into a secluded hollow beyond Kelly\'s Lough, over- \nhung by bold and precipitous rocks, called the North Prison, beyond which \nare seen the plains of Kildare, Meath and West-Meath. Southward toward \nAughavanagh the mountain is more immediately escarped into a secluded dell, \nthe South Prison, as on the north, and the eye ranges over the whole of \nWexford County and its ocean boundaries in the far distance. On the south- \nwest a vast tract from the base of the mountains to the higher summits of Tip- \n\n\n\nWaterfall at Hermitage. \n\n\n\nWICKLOW. 103 \n\nperary is embraced, holding between the central parts of the counties of Carlow \nand Kilkenny ; while to the east are those ranges of beautiful hills that wavelike \nraise their crests and fade into the horizon over the Irish Sea. It is suggested \nto those who make the ascent of Lugnaquilla and have not seen the Ess-fall, to \nreturn by the latter route, which is only three miles longer, a distance that will \nbe more than compensated by the views in Glenmalure.* \n\nAs previously stated, the lower part of Glenmalure expands in a pleasant way : \nthe hills sloping back on either side, and being wooded to the water\'s edge, \npresent a naturally attractive opening to the still more beautiful Vale of Avoca. \nThe Avonmore which has its origin in the sad region of Glendalough, and the \nAvonbeg which forced its way through the wild fastnesses of the upper Glenma- \nlure, uniting at Castle Howard, form the world-famous " Meeting of the Waters," \nand henceforth take the name of the Avoca from the vale through which it \npasses. From this point to Arklow, the scenery is unequaled for its variety of \nbeautiful views in which the pleasingly picturesque is combined with the most \nstrikingly romantic. The Vale of Avoca is distinguished by a most admirable \nadmixture of mountain, forest, lawn, and river scenery. The hill-sides are gener- \nally not more than a quarter of a mile distant from each other, and for nearly \neight miles are thickly wooded. The road winds through this vale, which em- \nbraces the grand woods of Castle Howard, Ballyarthur, Castle Macadam, Shelton \nAbbey, and Glenart. From Castle Howard \xe2\x80\x94 which occupies a proud position on \nan eminence two hundred feet over the water, and seems to be upheld by the tops \nof the trees which present a dense wall of foliage from the river bank to the \nhouse \xe2\x80\x94 to the forest-embosomed Glenart, a succession of sweet, soft and tranquil \npictures fill the vision and call forth renewed expressions of delight. Tourists \nof all classes and nationalities are almost ecstatic over the pleasure received here. \nThree-quarters of a century ago, Sir John Carr visited Avondale, the splendid \nresidence of Sir John Parnell, who lost the Chancellorship of the Exchequer by \nopposing the Union, and gave a pen-picture of the opening of this vale. "A \nnew scene of enchantment presented itself at the \' Meeting of the Waters,\' and \nriveted us in silent admiration. It was a scene of valleys, whose leafy sides \nwere covered with the most luxuriant foliage, presenting a compact slope of \nleaves through which neither branch nor trunk of tree could be seen. Upon the \ntop of one of these umbrageous mountains, a banqueting-room or tower arose, the \ncasement of which was brightened by the sun ; whilst below, dimly seen through \n\n* See Frasev\'s Hand-book, pp. 235-7. \n\n\n\n104 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nover-arching beech trees, a confluence of streams mingled with the river under \nthe blue mist of approaching evening." * \n\nA late writer is not less picturesque in conveying his appreciation of the same \nscene. " Nature," he says, "has here scattered her charms with a liberal hand: \nwaving woods, clear waters, and verdant shores combine to render the scene one \nof surpassing softness and beautiful tranquillity." It is not a scene in which \neither the poet or painter would find resources to awake or fill the imagination \nwith sensations of sublimity or terror : but it is superabundant in those qualities \nof repose and peace which have found fitting expression in the exquisite lyric of \nMoore. Evidently taking inspiration from the Meeting of the Waters, the poet \nconveys the effect produced by the reposeful bloom and " bosom of shade " so \nstrikingly characteristic of the whole vale. Notwithstanding its popularity, the \nbrevity as well as the beauty of the lyric suggests its reproduction here, as \nappropriate. \n\nThere is not in the wide world a valley so sweet \nAs that vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet ; \nOh ! the last rays of feeling and life must depart, \nEre the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart. \n\nYet it was not that Nature had shed o\'er the scene \nHer purest of crystal and brightest of green ; \n\'Twas not her soft magic of streamlet or hill, \nOh ! no, \xe2\x80\x94 it was something more exquisite still. \n\n\'Twas that friends, the beloved of my bosom, were near. \nWho made every dear scene of enchantment more dear. \nAnd who felt how the best charms of nature improve, \nWhen we see them reflected from looks that we love. \n\nSweet vale of Avoca ! how calm could I rest \n\nIn thy bosom of shade, with the friends I love best, \n\nWhere the storms that we feel in this cold world should cease. \n\nAnd our hearts, like thy waters, be mingled in peace. \n\nA strong occasional contrast to the general luxuriance of forest effect, is \nformed by the appearance of wild and barren rocks, particularly near the copper \nmines of Cronbane and Ballymurtagh which succeed to the woods of Castle \nHoward, and lie on different sides of the river, nearly opposite to each other \xe2\x80\x94 \nBallymurtagh on the west, and Cronbane on the east. A vitriolic stream from \nthe latter, years ago destroyed one of the finest salmon fisheries at Arklow. \n\n\n\n* The Stranger in Ireland, etc., by Sir John Carr, author of ^ Northetn Summer ; The Stranger in France, etc., 1807. \n\n\n\n\nVALE OF AVOCA. \n\n\n\nio6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nThe working of the mines revolted the feehngs of the anglers, one of whom from \n\n\n\nthe " sister island " at the time wrote, \n\n\n\n\nSecond Meeting of tht ]VatL> i ft om Bal/intiuiph \n\n\n\nI am sure, but for this noxious infusion, \nthat the Avoca would abound in white \ntrout, and afford to the angler, through \nits romantic course, not less sport \nthan our father Walton experienced \nin the resembling waters of the Dove \nin Derbyshire." \n\nThrough varied scenery we reach \nthe second Meeting of the Waters, \nmade by the junction of the Aughrim \n(or Avonbeg, yellow river) with the \nAvoca, where the river is crossed \nby a substantial stone, bridge, though \nthe locality retains its former name \nof " The Old Wooden Bridee." As- \n\n\n\ncending the hill at this point by an embowered winding path, a view of rare \ninterest is beheld. The Second is thought by many to outrival the first Meet- \n\n\n\n\nNear "IJie Old IVooden Bridge. \n\n\n\ning of the Waters : but it is not the water alone that renders this second beauty \nspecially attractive. It is the Meeting of the Glens. " From the east and the \n\n\n\n\nci/(?iyy-a-AA^yCi^a^ ^^y^^^j^// , /\'>,: ,\'^/ icA/^ct-iA- \n\n\n\nSEWTCEK , THOMAS HELIX, \n\n\n\nWICKLOW. \n\n\n\n107 \n\n\n\n-west, the north and the south they come hke rivers to the sea." From this point \nfive vales or glens are visible, as well as Croghan-Kinsella, which contained the \nWicklow gold mines worked in the last century, and commemorated in a dra- \nmatic piece by John O\'Keeffe. \n\nThe vale of the Avoca widens gradually in its approach to Arklow : between \nthe mines and the latter, on the east of the river the continuous woods of Bally- \narthur and Shelton rival in beauty the range of woods terminating in Glenart \non the opposite side. The town of Arklow, and its old ruined castle standing \non an eminence over the Avoca, which, after beautifying so much glorious \nscenery, discharges itself through a bridge of nineteen arches, have a grand and \nimposing appearance ; while an extensive sea view terminates the prospect. \n\nArklow was the scene of a memorable battle between the royalist forces \nunder General Needham, aided by Lord Farnham, Sir Watkin W. Wynne, \nColonel Skerret, Colonel Bainbridge and others, and the Wexford nationalists \nfrom Gorey, on the 9th of June, 1798. The "insurgents" intended attacking, \nthe town both from the sea side and from the opposite quarter. The garrison \nlearning this, was extensively reinforced and advantageously posted outside of \nthe town ; where the two forces met face to face, in a regular pitched battle. The \nfire began with the regularity of disciplined troops, and was maintained for hours. \nThe fortune of the day was various, until the insurgents threw the army into \nconfusion by dismounting the royal cannon and following the achievement by sin- \ngular bravery. The royal officers became alarmed. General Needham had given \nthe orders for retreat. Victory seemed with the nationalists \xe2\x80\x94 when, their ammu- \nnition giving out, they retired to Gorey, unpursued, however, by the royalists \xe2\x80\x94 as, \nsays the Protestant historian \n\nRev. Wm. Gordon, " a pur- \xe2\x80\x94 -,^-^- \n\nsuit would have been very _ ..i, \n\nhazardous." At this battle, ,^ \nthe priest-general Rev. Mi- \nchael Murphy, leading on a \ndivision of pike-men, was \ntorn to pieces by a cannon- \nball. \n\nAs we have gone from \nnorth to south of Wicklow "" \' ^----~-- \n\nLower Vale, and Shelton Abbey. \n\nin search of the picturesque, \n\nwe shall have to take a trip to its western border by the road from Laragh, or \n\n\n\n\nio8 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nby the road from Dublin, through Tallaght, Brittas and Blessington, to see, \nfour miles from the latter, the romantic falls at Poul-a-phuca. This celebrated \ncataract is formed by the Liffey, which, in its devious meanderings, enters a \ndeep chasm amid perpendicular rocks, and throws its accumulated mass of water \n\n\n\n\nover a series of rocky walls and ledges into a deep pool, called in Irish Poul-a- \nphuca, the pool of the Pooka, or Puck\'s hole; the Irish elf Phuca \xe2\x80\x94 an odd mix- \nture of merriment and malignity, being a counterpart, if not prototype of Puck the \n" merry wanderer of the night." A picturesque bridge of a single arch \xe2\x80\x94 sixty- \nfive feet \xe2\x80\x94 has been thrown over the gorge, and adds to the scenic effect. Fine \nviews can be obtained from a banqueting-room below the falls, and from a cot \nabove the bridge. The breadth of the gorge between the rocks is forty feet, and \nthe height from which the waters successively fall from the upper stage beyond \nthe bridge, i8o feet. The chasm under and below the bridge widens to a ravine, \nand the river Liffey spreads over a rugged bed for some distance, and then \ntakes a graceful course to Ballymore Eustace ; through Kildare and Dublin, \nwhere we shall agrain meet it in some charmino- scenes. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n\nThe Glints Gxie Cxusewxy \n\n\n\nThe County of Antrim is famous for the remarkable and magnificent coast \nrange which presents such wonderful features to the eye of art and science \nalmost throughout the entire extent of its ocean boundary from the mouth of \nthe Lagan to the mouth of the Bann. This region has long been a subject of \ninquiry and delight to geologists, philosophers, scientists, artists and tourists. \nThe mountains which are highest along the coast are not only strikingly pictur- \nesque, but are peculiarly attractive in displaying the strata of which their wind \nand wave wracked steeps are formed. The Giant\'s Causeway, one of the, in \n\xe2\x80\xa2every sense, monumental wonders of Antrim \xe2\x80\x94 not to say of all nature \xe2\x80\x94 is evea \n\n109 \n\n\n\nno PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nenhanced by the promontories, rocks, cliffs, caves and ruins in its vicinity. To> \nconvey some general idea of the topography of this coast, of which so much has \nbeen written, is difficult. It has been suggested, to somewhat understand its \ncharacter, that the reader look at the map, and before the mind\'s eye imagine a \nline extending from Belfast to Portrush \xe2\x80\x94 a circuit of some sixty miles \xe2\x80\x94 presenting \na resemblance to the continuous walls of a fortified city, with all its bastions, \ncurtains, and battlements, and he may arrive at some idea of the stupendous \nmasonry with which nature at this extremity of the island resists the perpetual \nforce of a turbulent ocean. This battlemented line is intersected by a great \nnumber of bays, which are usually designated " ports," at the extremity of each \nof which lies a valley, stretching into the country, generally divided by a stream \nof limpid water, and bounded by basaltic mountains which form the eastern and \nwestern boundaries of each bay. The interior of the county, which expands into- \nfertile and pleasant plains and vales, might, as Dr. Drummond remarks, be char- \nacterized by its valleys running in an opposite direction to those on the coast, \n" Thus the vales of Six-Mile- Water and Glenwhirry are opposite to those of Larne \nand Glenarm ; the rivers of the former hastening to join the waters of Lough \nNeagh, while those of the latter empty themselves into the sea." The county is \nalmost entirely surrounded by water \xe2\x80\x94 on its exterior line by Belfast Lough, the \nIrish Channel and the Atlantic Ocean, and on its interior by the Lagan, Lough \nNeagh, Lough Beg and the Bann ; \xe2\x80\x94 hence the old name Ean-dr^nni, the " ridge \nby the water," or, as otherwise translated, the " habitations by the waters." \n\nIf Antrim is justly celebrated for its natural features, it is equally, perhaps in \nthe eyes of commerce more, celebrated as the home of great industries, developed \nby energy of character, scientific appreciation,. business enterprise, and commer- \ncial integrity. As Manchester is the cotton capital, Belfast is the linen capital of \nthe British Empire. Belfast surpasses all other places in Ireland in the progress- \nand rapidity of its prosperity, and in this reminds an English writer of "the \nstories of American cities and towns." It is situated about twelve miles from \nthe sea, at the mouth of the Lagan, which separates Down and Antrim, at the \nsouthern extremity of what was once called Carrickfergus Bay, but now Bel- \nfast Lough. Although built on an alluvial flat only a few feet above the sea \nlevel, the general arrangement of the streets, invariably running toward the sur- \nrounding hills and acting as funnels to convey constant currents of pure mountain \nair into the heart of the town, renders it very healthy. Although the vicinity is \neminently historical and full of antiquarian and archaeological objects of interest, \nthe town of Belfast itself is thoroughly modern, no house in it dating earlier than \n\n\n\nANTRIM. Ill \n\nthe middle of the last century. The castle, to the erection of which Belfast owes \nits existence as a town, was destroyed by fire in 1708, three of the ladies Chiches- \nter perishing in the flames. The site of the castle, which was a magnificent \nstructure, is now occupied by the castle buildings and castle market ; and the traces \nof the past history of Belfast are only to be found in the names of some of the \nolder streets and localities. Thus Cromac Street and Cromac Place furnish \nreminiscences of Ballycromage, an- \n\n\n\n\nciently a townland and probably a \nplace of execution, Cromog signify- \ning " a gallows." Clowney Bridge \nrecalls Ballyclony, " the place of the \nmeadows." Friars\' Town \xe2\x80\x94 from \nBaile na inbrathair, or " the town iJ \nof the friars " \xe2\x80\x94 indicates the former \nexistence of a monastery there. \nMillfield, on the western side, was \nthe probable site of the mill and \nbrewhouse which, at the end of the \nsixteenth century, were the only \nbuildings here in addition to the \ncastle. \n\nThe rise of Belfast has been \nsingularly rapid. Two centuries \nago it was a mere fishing village. Carrickfergus was the principal entrepot for \nmerchandise consigned to the adjacent country. Even after Belfast had in- \ncreased in commercial importance, ships of large burden landed four miles dis- \ntant on the Down side of the Lough, and even as late as 1839 steamers plying \nbetween Belfast and Liverpool were compelled, at low water, to land their pas- \nsengers by means of small boats, at Donegal Quay, the only one then existing. \nAn act of Parliament of June 30th, 1837, authorized a corporation to preserve \nand improve the port, and by remarkable ingenuity and judgment this body \novercame numerous obstacles. Another act of June 21st, 1847, created a Board \nof Belfast Harbor Commissioners, under which the improvements in progress \nwere completed and others projected." Indeed the result of the labors of these \nbodies has been hailed as almost of a magical character. A new channel has \n\n\n\n\nMethodist LolU^c, L\xc2\xab:ljast. \n\n\n\n* A lucid account of obstacles encountered, and the ability by which they were surmounted, will be found in The \nAncient and Modem Histoiy of the Maritime Ports of Ireland, by Anthony Marmion. Fourth ed., London, iS6o. \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\n\n1. "iU\\x\\XVl \n\n\n\n\n\ni;Jl\\,st\xe2\x80\x94Aiilyiiii side of tli \n\n\n\nbeen constructed, enabling vessels drawing from eighteen to twenty feet of \nwater to come up close to the quays, the river frontage of which is at present \nupward of two miles in extent ; while five docks and basins, with a water-surface \nof ninety-six acres, furnish accommodation for vessels from all the leading \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n"3 \n\n\n\n\n\n:W;ii^^-,;:^T^:31|i \n\n\n\n\n^.-^^,. ^ C,\'."v \xe2\x96\xa0^^\xe2\x80\x94\xe2\x96\xa0- - of tliL Lagan. \n\nEuropean and American ports. Dry docks and graving docks have been added \nto the various ship-building establishments, in the principal of which, that of \nHarland & Wolff, which employs over two thousand hands, all the United States \nMail Steamers of the " White Star " line were built. \n\n\n\n114 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nOur " Bird\'s-eye View" presents a good idea of the situation of this fine town. \nThe broad open space on the right is Queen\'s Quay with its ample accommoda- \ntion ; Donegal Quay on the opposite side of the river is principally used by the \nsteamers plying to and from London, Liverpool, Glasgow, and other ports. \nThe Lagan is crossed here by two splendid bridges, Ormeaugh Bridge, and \nQueen\'s Bridge, the latter of which, consisting of five granite arches of fifty \nfeet span each, is a conspicuous feature in the view. It occupies the site of \n\nthe old Long Bridge, which received \nso much damage by the passage of \nSchomberg\'s heavy cannon, on its \nway from Groomsport to the Boyne \nin 1689, that it never afterward \nwas considered secure. We cannot \nbut allude to the picturesque back- \nground made by Divis Mountain, \nand Cave Hill (crowned by Mac- \nArt\'s fort), which, rising as it were \nfrom the tidal waters of the Lough, \nreach an altitude of 1,567 and 1,185 \nfeet. The diversified and romantic \nacclivities of Cave Hill are graced \nby fine villas, gardens and planta- \n\nQueen\'s College. tions \n\nThe general appearance of Belfast immediately and favorably impresses the \nmind of every visitor. While the busy scenes in the leading thoroughfares re- \nmind one of the ceaseless activity of Glasgow, Manchester, and other large centers \nof manufacturing industry, there is comparatively little of the smoke and dust \nwhich seem to have become permanent characteristics of those places. The \nactivity of Belfast in commercial enterprises did not jarevent its inhabitants from \ncultivating letters, arts and science. Printing was introduced in 1696, and the \nfirst Bible printed in Ireland was printed here in 1704. Among the principal archi- \ntectural ornaments of the town are the buildings devoted to education and intel- \nlectual culture. Of those there may be enumerated the Belfast Academy, the \nRoyal Belfast Academical Institution, the Model School, School of Art, Public \nLibrary, the Queen\'s College, the Presbyterian College, and the Methodist Col- \nlege. The places of religious worship, especially those of recent erection, are \ndistinguished by architectural merit and effect. The Presbyterian and Wesleyan \n\n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n115 \n\n\n\n\nPresbyterian College. \n\n\n\nare of course largely in the majority, the former having thirty and the latter \n\nfifteen churches. The Baptists, Independents, Friends, Unitarians, and other \n\nProtestant denominations also possess sev- \neral pUces of worship, as do the Roman \n\nCatholics, the most notable among the \n\nlatter being St. Malachy\'s and St. Patrick\'s, \n\nboth of which are on a cathedral scale, and \n\nin the Pointed style. The latter have also \n\nseveral conventual establishments. \n\nThe Queen\'s College, opened in 1849, \n\nis a brick building in\' the Tudor style, with \n\nan elegantly designed tower rising in the \n\ncenter. The number of students averages \n\nfour hundred annually. During the noted \n\nmeeting of the British Association in Bel- \nfast in 1874, the fine library of this college \n\nwas appropriately utilized for committee \n\nconsultations, and similar purposes. This \n\ncollege was built from the design of \n\nCharles Lanyon, county surveyor of Antrim; who also designed nearly all of \n\nthe public buildings \xe2\x80\x94 the churches and lunatic asylum excepted \xe2\x80\x94 of Belfast. \n\nThe Presbyterian College, erected in 1853, is devoted to the training of \n\nstudents intended for the ministry. The professorial chairs are endowed by \n\nGovernment. \n\nThe Wesleyan Methodist College, erected in 1868, at a cost of over $150,000, \n^ possesses an en- \n\ndowment of $125,- \n000, raised by \nvoluntary contri- \nbutions, and re- \nceives about three \nhundred students \nannually. \n\nOne of the in- \nstitutions of \n\nwhich Belfast feels justly proud is the Botanical Garden. It is near the Queen\'s \n\nCollege, covers an area of seventeen acres, and extends to the Lagan. Its \n\n\n\n\nBotanical Garden, \n\n\n\n\nLIBRARY, QUEEN\'S COLLEGE. \n\n\n\n\nTHE ALBERT MEMORIAL. \n\n\n\nii8 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nconservatories, its fine collections of plants and native heaths, specimens of forest \ntrees, delightful scenery, and pervading effect of unremitting care and taste, pre- \nsent constant sources of admiration. \n\nThe Albert Memorial, which stands at the foot of High Street, is of very \nstriking appearance. It consists of a clock-tower, with open belfry and spire, \nthe face next High Street being embellished by a statue of the Prince Consort. \n\n\n\n\nA\'ort/i Gate, CarriLkJ\'crgn \n\n\n\nThe height of the structure, one of the most graceful of its kind, is 138 feet. It \nAvas erected by public subscription, and completed in 1S69. \n\nIn every aspect Belfast is attractive. A distinguished and gifted American, \nSamuel S. Cox, with the growth of the great cities of his country in his ex- \nperience and before his mind\'s eye, writes " that no American city of the same \nsize presents so much activity and commercial life : while at the same time, it is \nlaid out with an elegance which betokens foresight and grace." Mr. Cox\'s visit \nwas made toward the end of the month of August, and he describes the fields \nas "snow-white with linen bleaching in the sun, while the country between \nDrogheda and Belfast waved with the flax, some of which was in process of \npulling." * \n\n* The Buckeye AlimaJ, by Samuel S. Cox, p. 395. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n119 \n\n\n\nThe Irish Hnen manufacture \xe2\x80\x94 allusion to which, however brief, must be made \nin connection with Belfast \xe2\x80\x94 dates from a very remote period. It is said that so \nearly as a.d. 12 16 it was in a flourishing condition, and that in a.d. 1245 Walter \nde Burgo, Earl of Ulster, had parcels of linen woven for his household. At a \nmuch earlier date, the Danes, in sacking Bangor, are said to have carried off vast \n\n\n\n\nCarrickfergus Castle^from the land side. \n\n\n\nquantities of fine linen robes. The linen cloth was usually dyed with saffron, \nand was worn by the inhabitants in large loose-fiowing robes, requiring some \nthirty or forty yards for each garment. When Shane O\'Neill made his memorable \nvisit to the Court of Elizabeth, the saffron-hued vests of his followers attracted \nas much attention from the Londoners as their flowing locks. The real progress \nof the Irish linen trade dates, however, from the settling of the French refugees \nin and about Lisburn in 1699. They brought with them the use of the spinning- \nwheel, and various improvements in weaving and bleaching, the adoption of \nwhich did more to benefit the trade than all the laws which had been passed for \nits protection. In 171 1 the Linen Board was formed "for the encouragement of \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nthe flax and hempen manufactures of Ireland," having the distribution of an \nannual grant of about $100,000, voted by Parliament. The protective system \nreceived further developments in later years, but did not prevent the linen indus- \ntry from experiencing several seasons of extreme depression, especially during \nthe American War of Independence. The prosperity of the trade dates from \n1828, when the Linen Board was dissolved, and the various restrictions on the \nmanufacture removed. The capitalists, thrown entirely on their own resources, \n\nwithout the least \nprospect of a re- \nturn to the boun- \nty system, were \ncompelled to \nadopt every pos- \nsible improve- \nment, and so en- \nergetically did \nthey adapt them- \nselves to the new \norder of things, \nthat up to this \ntime they have kept a foremost place in the markets of the world. \n\nThe developments of the linen industry are both numerous and impor- \ntant. The weaving of diaper was first introduced at Newtownards by James \nBradshaw, about a century and a half ago. The manufacture of damask \nwas introduced about the same time at Waringstown by Richard H olden ; at \nLisburn by William Coulston ; followed up by Michael Andrews at Ardoyne. \nBy these every new invention for perfecting the workmanship was introduced. \nSome of the original designs for table linen produced in this neighborhood stand \nunrivaled. Damasks from these looms at present adorn the tables of Queen \nVictoria and some of the other crowned heads of Europe, as well as of many of \nthe leading nobility. Lurgan has long held the first place in the manufacture \nof cambric, lawn, and cambric handkerchiefs, and in diapers, and Ballymena \nstands out pre-eminent for its fine yard-wide plain linens. \n\nCarrickfergus, ten miles from Belfast,- formerly the county town of x\\ntrim, \nreceived its name from Carrig, a rock, and Feargus, an Irish hero who was lost \nin a storm some three centuries before the Christian era. It has an ancient and \nturbulent record of wars, and sieges, and sanguinary conflicts. It was surrounded \n\n\n\nSwiff s Church at Kilroot, \n\n\n\nANTRIM, \n\n\n\n\nby a wall, some traces \n\nof which are yet visible \n\non the western side , \n\nand the North Gate, iri \n\ngood preservation, still \n\nremains The streets \n\nwithin and without the ^ ^^^t-=;^S^ \n\nwalls are narrow and ,,, \n\nLrlenarm. \n\nantiquated. The chief \n\nobject of interest now, as it was the commanding object of possession in the past, \nis the venerable castle. Standing on a low rock, it projects into the sea, and is \nordinarily surrounded on three sides by water. It occupies a military position of \ngreat importance, and is the only one of the ancient Norman fortresses remaining \nin a state of preservation. It is garrisoned by troops, mounts twenty-five pieces \nof cannon, and is the most extensive depot for small arms in the North of Ireland. \n\n\n\n122 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nThis historical pile was built by Sir John de Courcy in 1178, Henry II. \nhaving made him a grant of all the land he might conquer in Ulster. Toward \nthe town are two half-moon towers, and between them is the only entrance, \ndefended by a strait passage with loop-holes. About the center of this passage \nAvas a drawbridge, protected by a barbican still to be seen. Between , the half- \nmoons there was also an aperture through which to fling stones, melted lead, etc., \non the assailants. There is a portcullis and aperture for the same purpose in- \nside, and still farther within, the lower and upper ballmm, ofificers\' quarters, \narmorer\'s forge, furnace for heating lead, bomb-proof vaults, and all the other \nnecessary resources of a powerful stronghold. The square tower is divided into \nfive stories, in the third of which is the largest room, being twenty-five feet \nhigh, thirty-eight feet broad, and forty feet long. Within the keep, the walls of \nwhich are nearly nine feet thick, was a draw well, now nearly choked up, thirty- \nseven feet deep, the waters of which were said to possess medicinal virtues. \n\nThis fortress, as suggested, was for centuries the objective point of many \nchiefs and invaders. " A right of supremacy over the lords of this territory (the \nancient Dalriada, and Dalaradia) was claimed by the powerful family of the \nnorthern O\'Neills, who were at length deprived of the southern part of this \ncounty by the family of Savage, and other English (Anglo-Norman) adventurers."* \nIn 1315, Edward Bruce, having landed at Olderfleet (JVolder Firtli^ captured \nCarrickfergus Castle after a most vigorous defense by Sir Thomas Mandeville, \nwho was killed in a sortie. After the defeat and death of Bruce, the English re- \ngained possession, but in 1333 William de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, was assassinated, \nand the O\'Neills obtained possession, either extirpating the Anglo-Normans or \nreducing them within narrow bounds. In these prolonged conflicts, " several \nfamilies," says Thierry, "who possessed great domains in those parts, such as the \nAudelys, the Talbots, the Touchets, the Chamberlains, the Mandevilles, and the \nSauvages, all Normans byname and origin, were obliged to quit."f Subsequently \nthe Anglo-Normans partially regained their possessions. The few Norman, fami- \nlies re-established in Ulster, after these events, were, as Thierry says, "either poor \nor had formed relations with the natives, and became more Irish than the Irish \nthemselves." In 1386 Carrickfergus was burned by the Scots, and in 1400 was \nagain destroyed by the combined forces of the Scots and Irish. It had many \n\n* Topographical Dictionary of Ireland : With Historical end Statistical Descriptions, tic. By Samuel Lewis. 2 vols. \n4to. London, 1837. Article Antnm. \n\n\\ History of the Conquest of England by the N\'oj-mans : Its Causes and Consequences in England, Scotland, Ireland \netc. By Augustus Thierry. Translated by Wm. Hazlitt. 2 vols. London, 1S56. Vol. ii,, p. 322. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n123 \n\n\n\nvicissitudes by fire and famine and war, and the corporation in 1573 represented \nthe town as being one-third in ruins. It was in this state when the Earl of Essex \nlanded here on his disastrous expedition against Hugh O\'Neill. His successor, \nLord-Deputy Sidney, built a wall around it in 1576 : but its resources were so \nreduced by the incursions of the O\'Neills and O\'Donnells that the Deputy, Lord \nGrey, found it necessary in 1581 to issue an edict peremptorily forbidding the in- \nhabitants from paying to the Lord of Clannaboy the tribute known as " Bryan \nBallaughe\'s Eric." In 1641 the design of Sir Henry Mac Neill to capture the town \nwas frustrated by the vigi- \nlant activity of Arthur Chi- ^^\xc2\xa3 ^-_ - \nChester, governor of the _^_ \nCastle \xe2\x80\x94 who bore a promi- \nnent part in the final subju- \ngation of Ulster, and was \nrewarded by large tracts \nand titles \xe2\x80\x94 built a great \ncastle here and another at \nBelfast, of which town he \nis esteemed the virtual \nfounder. In the war of \nthis year the fortress was \nalternately in the hands of the Scotch, English, and Irish. In 1642 Munroe held \nit for the Scotch Presbyterians : in 1648 he was surprised, captured and sent to \nEngland by Monk, who occupied it for the Parliament. Next, Montgomery of the \nArds held it for Charles I., and in 1649 it was taken by Sir Charles Coote in the \nname of Cromwell. In 1666 the garrison mutinied, and seized castle and town, \nbut were compelled to a surrender by the Duke of Ormonde. The " Irish quar- \nter " outside the walls recalls Ormonde\'s proclamation of 1677 forbidding Ro- \nman CathoHcs to dwell within fortified towns. In 1689, the castle was held by, \nLord Iveagh for James II. ; but during the year, the garrison, having exhausted \nits ammunition, surrendered to Schomberg for William III., who landed here in \n1690 to take personal command of his army. The stone on which he first set his \nfoot is still shown at the end of the pier. The quietude which followed this event \nfor nearly three-quarters of a century was broken by Commodore Thurot, the \ndescendant of ah exiled Jacobite officer named Farrell, who, in 1760, with three \nFrench frigates and eight hundred men, invested and captured the castle after \na o-allant resistance. The next event of interest was also under naval auspices ; \n\n\n\n\nOlderfleet Castle. \n\n\n\n124 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nas well asunder the stars and stripes carried by Paul Jones. On his famous cruise \nin \\k\\^ Ranger in 1778, while near Carrickfergus on the 21st June, he learned that \nthe British man-of-war Drake, twenty guns, was in the bay. Prevented by the \nweather from attacking her that night, he sought shelter on the Scottish coast. \nThe next day he set fire to Whitehaven, on the 23d sacked the Earl of Sel- \nkirk\'s, on St, Mary\'s Isle, and on the 24th dashed back to pay his respects to the \nDrake, which, in answer to an express from Whitehaven, he found coming out. \nJones hoisted the stars and stripes, and in response to "a hail " demanding who \nhe was, replied, " The American Continental ship Ranger, that he waited for \n\nthem, and desired them to come on." \nThis he emphasized with a broadside. \nThe action was warm, close and ob- \nstinate, and resulted in the capture \nof the Drake. \n\nThe old Church of St. Nicholas \xe2\x80\x94 \ndating from the eleventh or twelfth \ncentury \xe2\x80\x94 is the other object of in- \nterest in Carrickfergus. It contains \nsome fine monuments, but the Done- \ngal family is charged with culpable neglect of family monuments and hereditary \nassociations in permitting the venerable edifice to crumble piecemeal into ruins. \n\nThe route from Carrickfergus around the coast to Ballycastle affords a \ngrand treat to lovers of the picturesque. The road, which was designed in 1834 \nby Mr. Bald the engineer, and built at the joint expense of the government and \nthe county, is a fine work cut through the hills of limestone, winding round the \ncliffs and passing for a great distance close to the sea. On the route to Larne \nit passes through the village of Eden to Kilroot, interesting to the literary world \nas containing the remains of the church in which Jonathan Swift, afterward the \ngreat Dean of St. Patrick, first officiated after taking orders. Not far distant, at \nBallycarry, is another object of great interest to a special denomination connected \nwith the history of Ulster \xe2\x80\x94 the ruins of the church of Templecoran, the first \nPresbyterian church erected (161 3) in Ireland. Leaving the coast road to \nLarne, a visit to the noted promontory called Island Magee will repay the \ntourist. On the eastern boundary are the stupendous basaltic cliffs, the Gobbins \n( from Gob, the mouth, and Ben, height, or headland), forming a perpendicular \npalisade over 200 feet in height. The Island Magee massacre is infamously \nfamous in history. Without entering Into the discussion as to the numbers slain. \n\n\n\n\nIIu uobhiii LliJJs \n\n\n\n126 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthe fact is sufficient that a united band of English and Scotch under Munroe^ \nthe Covenanter governor of Carrickfergus, on the 8th .of January, 1642, "in re- \nvenge for some outrage on the Protestants in a neighboring district," precipitated \na large number of unoffending Roman Catholics over the Gobbin Cliffs. In \nthese cliffs are seven caves, into which the tide flows. They are a little above \nlow-water mark, under a basaltic rock 210 feet high, intersected by layers of \nochreous basalt an inch thick, and of a bright vermilion color. The island is \nover seven miles in length,\' and averages perhaps one and a half in width. At \nBrown\'s Bay is an ancient Logan stone, now displaced from its pivot, weighing \n\ntwelve tons ; and on \n^^=j, ^- . the northern end at \n\nBallyumpage are the \nremains of a crom- \nlech, or, as it is call- \ned, "Druid\'s Altar," * \nnear which several \narticles in pure gold \nhave been found. \nNear the entrance to \nthe peninsula, in a \nfine situation on a \nbold shore, are the \nremains of Castle Chichester, and there are also on the island the ruins of two \nancient churches. A writer on the locality says that a curious account of this \nisland is to be met, " in a private MS. in this county, which mentions that in \nthe reign of Elizabeth it was a complete waste," without any wood, and that, \nevidently at the suggestion of Essex, "the Queen granted a lease of it to Savage." \nThe ancient rent of the island was " two goshawks and a pair of gloves." \n\nIsland Magee was noted as the theater of sorcery; in 171 1 eight females \nwere tried on charges of witchcraft in Carrickfergus, and the memory of " Fairy \nBrown " is still a cause of "terror to the neighboring peasantry." We can pro- \nceed by the ferry on the northwestern extremity to Larne by way of Olderfleet ; \nor reach the same place by resuming the coast road at Kilroot. \n\nLarne, nine and a half miles from Carrickfergus, is pleasantly situated under \n\n* Eugene O\'Curry does not think the names synonymous. He is of the opinion that cromlechs were neither intended \nfor, nor used as altars or places of sacrifice \xe2\x80\x94 that they were in no sense Druidical, but in every sense sepulchral. See \nMS. Matetials of Ancient Irish Hist. Appendix xcv. \n\n\n\n\nThe Maidens. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n127 \n\n\n\na steep hill in a fertile and sheltered glen at the head of Lough Larne, the name \ngiven to the inlet of the sea lying between Island Magee and the mainland of \nAntrim. The approach discloses some bold and picturesque scenery, the bright \nblue sea surrounding the island, and in almost immediate foreground the bleach \ngreens and quarries. The entrance to the Lough \xe2\x80\x94 a deep channel \xe2\x80\x94 may be ob- \nserved to lie between the long narrow strip of land, which from its resemblance to \na reaping-hook is called the Curraan, or Carran, and Island Magee. Near the ex- \ntremity of the Carran are the ruins of Olderfleet Castle, erected to keep watch on \nthe Scottish invaders. It was only abandoned as a military station when the crowns \n\nof England and Scotland were united on the ^ \n\nbrow of James the First. Six miles from _^ \n\nthe mainland are the Maidens \xe2\x80\x94 two lofty \nlight-houses erected on rocky islets. The \nlanterns are respectively eighty-four and \nninety feet above high water. \n\nFrom Larne the road leads along the \ncoast, and four miles distant is tunneled \nthrough Ballygally Head, a bold promon- \ntory faced with enormous basaltic pillars, \nmany joints of which are not less than \neight feet in length. We next approach \nthe village of Glenarm, and we may pause \nas well to admire the beauty of the situa- \ntion as the means by which we reach it. \nThe coast road in this section leading into \nand from Glenarm has commanded enthusiastic approval. In its construction, \naccording to the commissioners\' report, two peculiar difficulties presented them- \nselves \xe2\x80\x94 one the necessity of constructing the road under a considerable extent of \nrocks some hundreds of feet in height, and with its base washed by the open sea: \nand the other its passage along portions of very steep hills of moving clay banks. \n" About 30,000 cubic yards of rock have been hurled down on the shore, and the \nroad, ten feet above the highest tides, has been floored, partly upon the loose, and \npartly upon the solid rock." If the engineer "had worked with a poet and painter \nat his back, he could not have laid out its course more agreeably to the eye \nand to the imagination. It is constructed with equal skill, taste and enterprise; \ncliffs cut through, chasms crossed, watercourses walled and bridged \xe2\x80\x94 a roughly- \nribbed and jagged coast, in short, traversed by a road as smooth and almost as \n\n\n\n\nBarbican of Anil 1 \n\n\n\n128 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nlevel as a tennis court. We have been surprised at the excellence of the roads \nall over Ireland, but by none so agreeably as this." * \n\nThe view from the summit of any of the hills surrounding Glenarm is sur- \npassingly beautiful. Looking toward the sea, the Mull of Cantyre, the Scottish \nmainland stretches in the distance, upon which, even in moderately clear weather \n\xe2\x80\x94 says Wakeman \xe2\x80\x94 not only the fields but even the neatly white-washed houses \nare distinctly visible. The village is nestled in a romantic glen, surrounded by \nwoods and watered by a troutful stream. Its chief architectural feature is the \ncastle, which represents a still older structure of which some remains are still \n\nextant, and which was \n\n___^ ;r^^ for many years the \n\n- ^-^^^= ""^ ^^ seat of the MacDon- \n\nnells, Earls of An- \ntrim. The castle is \nquadrangular, flank- \ned at the angles with \nfour beautifully pro- \nportioned towers \nsupporting minarets, \ntopped by vanes. \nThe entrance is \nthrough a noble bar- \nb i c a n , approached \nfrom without by a \nbridge. " Four hundred deer and stags graze around it, and six hundred old an- \ncestral trees overshadow its ground : and all this smiling and peaceful beauty, shel- \ntered between the wild black rocks which form the little glen, with a view opening \non old ocean rolling his stormy white-crested waves beyond, forms perhaps the \nmost wonderful site in all the world for a stately baronial mansion." \n\nThe distant hill rising above the opening of the valley is the celebrated Sleive \nMish, where St. Patrick as a boy captive is said to have tended the swine of \nMilcho. A fine bay six miles in extent reaches from the headlands of Glenarm \non the south to the bold promontory of Garron Point on the north. Between \nthose points on land the road crosses the vale of Carnlough, in the center of \nwhich is the hamlet of the same name. Garron Point is a conspicuous promon- \ntory consisting of three pinnacles united by precipices of basalt. The highest \n\n\n\n\nBmf\'re and LastU at GUiuinn \n\n\n\n* Bartlett\'s Ireland. Letter-press by N. P. Willis, J. Sterling Coyne, etc. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n129 \n\n\n\nsummit is of easy access, along a gently rising verdant bank. Near it, on the \nacclivities of Nachore hill, 1,179 f^^t above the sea, which rises over the Point, \nand occupying an elevated site is Garron Tower, a modern castellated \n;.^ structure of fine appearance, built by the dowager Marchioness of \n\nLondonderry, whose boundless wealth, it is gratefully recorded, was \n\' employed liberally in the improvement of her es- \n\ntate in this part of Antrim. She had a railway \nconstructed at her own expense from the lime- \nstone quarries to the sea, at the village of Corn- \nlough, which quickly \nunderwent a complete \ntransformation under \n\n\n\n\n-^m^\'\' \n\n\n\n\nthe magic power of her gold- \nen wand She presided per- Cnujon Toum \nsonally over the entertain- \nments given to her tenants, and delivered able \nlectures to them on the management of their farms. \n\nFrom this and the neighboring heights extensive views of the \nscenery between Glenarm and Cushendon, as well as of the Scottish \' \'\xe2\x96\xa0\xe2\x96\xa0""\'^\xe2\x96\xa0S-r \ncoast, are obtained. From the shore line also at Garron Point, the \nviews, north and south, are truly characterized as magnificent. The road here is \ncut through the cliff of the promontory, and presents a rather notable appear- \nance. Farther on are the limestone rocks called Clough-i-stookan (from clotigk, \nstone, and stook, a pinnacle), which have been isolated from the mainland, not by \n9 \n\n\n\nI30 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nRoad through Cliff at Gar ran Point. \n\n\n\nthe engineer, but by the labor of time and the tides. Rounding Garron Point we \nenter Red Bay, so called from the soft red sandstone of its rocky boundary. And \n\njust here, perhaps, it is as well that we \nshould pause and hear, in a condensed \nform, what the scientists have to say on \nthe interesting and important geologi- \ncal and mineralogical features of this \ncounty. Excepting a diversified district \non the east coast, and the valley of the \nLagan, nearly the whole County of An- \ntrim is occupied by basaltic beds, present- \ning magnificent abrupt declivities on the \nnorth and east. These secondary beds \nconsist of enormous unstratified masses \nof an average depth of 300 feet, though \nat Knock-Layd it is 980 feet, the base \nof which is of mica slate. The beds of \ncolumnar basalt occur almost exclusively \non the northern extremity. Besides the columnar strata, known as the Giant\'s \nCauseway, and the adjacent cliffs, similar strata are seen in other parts, particu- \nlarly near the town of Antrim and Kilroot. Slievemish or Slemish Mountain is \nan enormous mass of greenstone, which also occurs in other localities. Porphyry \noccupies a considerable district south of Connor and Kells, and is met in other \nplaces, especially near Cushen- \ndall. The substance called \nwood-coal occurs in thin strata \nat Portnoffer, Kiltymorris, Bal \nlintoy, and elsewhere. \n\nAll the other rocks of An \ntrim are beneath the basaltic \nbeds in geological position. The \nfirst is hard chalk, sometimes \ncalled white limestone, which \naverages 200 feet in thickness \nand occurs on the eastern and "~"~" \n\nsouthern sides of the county \nand on the southern coast of Rathlin Island \n\n\n\n\nClo ugh - i- Stooka n . \n\nGreen sandstone next occurs in \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n131 \n\n\n\nthe neighborhood of Belfast, to the north of Carrickfergus, near Larne, at Garron \nPoint, etc. ; and under this are found Has beds on the coast between Garron \nPoint and Larne. These, together with the chalk and basalt, are based upon \nbeds of reddish and reddish-brown sandstone of various textures, which are found \nunder the entire southeastern border, in several spots along the eastern coast, \nand in considerable tracts from Red Bay to Ballycastle : the upper strata form a \nmarl, in which are veins of gypsum. The coal district of Ballycastle comprises \nabout two miles along the coast ; the beds crop out above the level of the sea, \ndipping to the _ \n\nsouth east about \none foot in nine, ^ ^ \n\nand alternate with sm- \n\nothers of sandstone \nand slate clay, being \nthemselves of a \' \nslaty quality. The \nonly rocks lying un- \nder the strata of the \ngreat coal district, \nbesides the primi- \ntive rocks of mica- \nslate, etc., men- \ntioned, are those of \n\n" old red sandstone," between the bays of Cushendall and Cushendun. All of \nthe above-mentioned strata are occasionally intersected and dislocated by remark- \nable dykes of basalt or whinstone, varying from three inches to sixteen feet in \nwidth. Sometimes very minute dykes or veins of greenstone penetrate these \nenormous beds of basalt, and are particularly noticeable near Portrush, where they \nare seen in the face of the cliff hot more than an inch broad. Chert is also found \nin abundance and variety at Portrush. Fuller\'s earth exists in the basaltic dis- \ntrict, in which also a rough tripoli is found at Agnew\'s Hill, near Larne, and a \nvein of steatite or French chalk in the path to the Gobbins. \n\nRed Bay is the most beautiful of the bays on the Antrim coast. Opening \ninland from the bay is Glenariff. From Red Bay to Cushendun, a distance of \nsix miles, there are four vales or glens \xe2\x80\x94 Glenariff, Glendall, Glenaan, and Glen- \ndun, named after their respective streams, the Ariff, the Dall, the Aan, and the \nDun. Of these elens the first named is esteemed the most beautiful. It is \n\n\n\n\nTunnel at Red Bay. \n\n\n\n132 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nbounded on the one side by the cHffs of Carnlea, 1,179 f^^t high, and on the \nopposite by Lurgethan, a huge truncated cone of equal altitude. Leaping be- \ntween boldly escarped Avails the Ariff River forms a waterfall and flows into the \nsea at the little hamlet of Waterfoot. Beyond the latter are the noted caves of \nRed Bay, excavations in the soft red sandstone, formed perhaps by the unceas- \ning inroads of the \n\' -\'I IT^^F waves in days \n\npast, now exclud- \ned by the embank- \nment. Red Bay \nCastle, the ruins \nof which tower \nabove a lofty \narch cut through \n\nJIin-/oii\xc2\xa3;h Bay. , , \n\nthe southern end \nof one of the projecting red cliffs, was, in 1598, the residence of Randall Mac \nDonnell, then lord of the county, but was originally built by the Bissetts. The \nshore view from Red Bay is something very remarkable. On the left, a range of \ndeeply-furrowed escarpments, with torn and irregular abutments, extends for \nmiles along the coast. In this the courses and furrows of numerous waterfalls \xe2\x80\x94 \ntorrents precipitated over mural crowns more than one thousand feet high, have \na striking and splendid effect. Many of these waterfalls are permanent \xe2\x80\x94 some \nabundant in the rains of spring and summer, and all foaming and flashing in \nwinter. \n\nThe glens alluded to arrest our attention as we proceed. Next to Glenariff \nis Glendall, lying between Lurgethan and Trostan, the latter being 1,810 feet high \nand the highest of the hill chain here. The road through this orlen leads from \nCushendall to Ballymena. Glenaan, a narrow valley, lies between the mountains \nof Sleevebulliagh, 1,346 feet high, and Eshery, the moorland crown of which is \n1,197 feet over the sea. Glendun is bounded on the west by the mountains \nof Glenmakeeran, 1,321 feet high, and across the lower end the new road from \nCushendun to Ballycastle is carried over a fine stone bridge, the central arch of \nwhich is eighty feet above the river Dun. \n\nThe village of Cushendall affords the tourist a resting-place and a point from \nwhich he can devote at least a couple of days to profitable expeditions among the \ncliffs, shores, mountains and glens of the vicinity, especially as he must soon \nleave the coast ; as, from Cushendall to Fairhead, with the exception of the little \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n133 \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x80\xa2>\xe2\x96\xa0 \n\n\n\nbays of Cushendun ami \nMurlough, the mountain \ndescend so sheer to the si\xe2\x80\x9ea \nas to leave no opportunity \nfor a road ; which has to take \na turn inland, and be earned \nover the mountains at a con- \nsiderable elevation to Bally- \ncastle, and at a distance of \nsome two miles and a half \nfrom the shore. \n\nThe coast road, however, from Larne to this point, is one which presents \n\n\n\nN 1 \\ \n\n\n\n\'% \n\n\n\nFair he ad. \n\n\n\n\n\n\njch \n\n\n\n134 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nscenery to the eye as cannot readily be obliterated from the memory. It embraces \nthe most interesting coast-drive in the kingdom. Skirting the shore the entire \nway, a rare opportunity is afforded of viewing its great distinguishing features to \nthe best advantage. The outlines of the shore assume the most pleasing forms, \nand produce effects which are peculiarly agreeable from their striking contrasts \nand harmonious variety. Here, the road penetrates the high, jutting, rocky pro- \nmontory; there it sweeps around the smooth, lovely, circular bay. Unlike many \nof our estuaries, says Fraser, the ebbing tides disclose no silty, no noxious resi- \nduum, but leave the smooth strand and pebbly beach in lieu of the dark blue \n\nwaters. The outlines, forms, colors, and char- \nacters of the cliffs, so totally different in all \nthese respects from those of the other shores of \nIreland, never fail to arrest the attention, while \nthe ever-varying and new alternations of rocky \nprecipice, grassy bank, sequestered knoll, and \ncultivated lea invariably excite the most pleasing \nemotions. \n\nWithin a mile of Cushendall are the ruins of \nthe old Church of Layd, where, according to \ntradition, is buried Ossian, the famous poet, \nson of Fioun, the disciplinarian of the ancient \nFenian hosts, and himself a leader of this na- \ntional militia. \n\nThree miles \xe2\x80\xa2 northward is the pleasantly \nsituated fishing hamlet of Cushendun, and six \nmiles farther Tor Head, only distant twelve \nmiles from the Mull of Cantyre, which makes it \nthe nearest point to Scotland. " In some old maps of Elizabeth\'s time. Tor is \ncalled \' the Scots\' warning fire,\' from the Scots who had settled in these parts \nmaking fires on it to bring over their friends to their assistance, when about to \nbe assailed by the English or Irish." \n\nThe sturdy tourist will keep to the cliff path, and take in the beauty of Mur- \nlough Bay, from which to its northwestern point of Benmore, or Fair Head, the \ncoast is not only very fine, but of deep interest to the geologist. Vast fragments \nof rocks lie scattered along the shore, amongst which enormous masses of colum- \nnar greenstone prevail. \n\nFair Head, the Robogdium Promontormm of Ptolemy the Geographer, is a bold \n\n\n\n\nEntrance io Grey Mans Path. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. 135 \n\nand beautiful headland, one of the most striking on the whole coast of Ireland. \nAccording to the Ordnance Survey its height is 639 feet, of which the face of \nthe cliff shows 319 feet of a perpendicular escarpment. It is formed of colossal \nbasaltic pillars, some of which exceed two hundred feet in length, and are from \nfive to twenty in diameter. One of these, by Dr. Playfair\'s measurement, is a \nquadrangular prism, thirty-three feet by thirty-six on the sides, and of the gigan- \ntic altitude mentioned. It is said to be the largest basaltic pillar yet discovered \non the face of the globe, "exceeding in diameter the pedestal that supports the \nstatue of Peter the Great at St. Petersburg, and considerably surpassing in length \nthe shaft of Pompey\'s pillar at Alexandria." At the foot of this magnificent col- \nonnade is seen an immense mass of rocks similarly formed, accumulation of \ndebris, and huge fragments of the enormous pillars which have fallen from their \nplace, and lie piled in masses and groups, resembling many of the varieties of \nartificial ruins, and forming a novel effect : the deep waters of the sea rolling at \ntheir base with a full and heavy swell. The whole headland is widely different \nfrom the small, compact, close-grained basalt of the neighborhood, being a highly \ncrystalline greenstone, and supposed to belong to a different epoch, notwith- \nstanding its close proximity to the great basaltic mass. " It presents to the \nspectator," says Dr. Drummond, "the most stupendous colonnade ever erected \nby nature, and in comparison of which the proudest monuments of human archi- \ntecture are but the efforts of pigmy imbecility to the omnipotence of God." \n" The scene of ruin," says another writer, "at the base of these Titanian pillars, \nis probably not exceeded in Europe." Hall says it is " grand in the extreme \xe2\x80\x94 \nsublime beyond conception/\' and, appalled at its extent and magnificence, adds, \n" it is utterly impossible for any description to afford an idea of its surpassing \ngrandeur \xe2\x80\x94 to portray which the pencil of the artist is equally incapable." Bay- \nard Taylor, in his Views a-Foot, records a metaphor which is both suggestive and \ndescriptive : " My companion," he says, " compared it to Niagara Falls petrified, \nand I think the simile very striking. It is like a cataract falling in huge waves, \nin some places leaping out from a projecting rock, in others descending in an un- \nbroken sheet." Whether considered in a scenic or scientific point of view, Fair \nHead is the highest, boldest, and most interesting promontory on the whole grand \nline of the Antrim coast ; and it will be freely admitted, that no one who has de- \nscended this promontory by the "Grey Man\'s Path," can forget its wonderful \nbasaltic precipices, and the natural ruins at its base. In walking along the top \nof the cliff, several of the vast pillars may be seen to be partially loosened from \nthe mainland, and to lean out fearfully over the gulf below. The Fhir Leith, or \n\n\n\n136 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nGrey-Man\'s Path, is a fissure in the precipice, through which a path winds down to \nthe shore. A part of a huge pillar has fallen across the narrowest part near the \ntop, and looks threatening enough to forbid risking oneself in the path beneath. \nBut in the midst of these wild scenes one gets accustomed to danger. The pas- \nsage widens in the descent, and the walls assume a vast and sombre significance, \nrising, as they do, some two hundred and twenty feet. \n\nThe views from off this promontory of a fine day are truly beautiful. Scotland \n\napproaches within \nseventeen miles, \nand i t s rocky \nshores and moun- \ntains, and even \ni t s habitations, \nwith the aid of \na moderate glass, \nare quite distinct- \n5^ ly seen. Far off \n- to the north the \nPaps of Jura and \nthe Crag of Ailsa \nappear faintly against the cloudless horizon, as if some viewless hand had traced \n\n" An airy palace on the sky ;" \n\nand nearer, to the east, the mountains of Ayrshire and the crags of Arran seem \nsoftened by distance into an almost ethereal tinge of blue ; while westward, the \nsharp bluffs of the receding headlands of the Causeway jut out one by one, until \nthey conduct the eye across to the point of Innishowen Head and the moun- \ntains of Donegal, still more faintly blue than the Scottish mountains to the east. \nIn descending from Fair Head towards Ballycastle we pass two small lakes \xe2\x80\x94 \nCaolin and Crossa \xe2\x80\x94 near the edge of the precipice, and nearly five hundred feet \nabove the sea. The celebrated Whin-dyke of Carrig Maur opens a passage for \nthe waters which precipitate themselves over the cliff, forming a scanty but at \ntimes pretty waterfall dripping fantastically from the brow of the dingy rocks \ninto the ocean.* Not far from the promontory is a little settlement, with the \nremains of a factory, which is known as the Salt-Pans, a view of which adds to \n\n\n\n\nIlu Salt Pans \n\n\n\n*See Tours in Ulster : a Handbook to the Antiquities and Scenery of the North of Ireland. By J. B. Doyle. With \nnumerous illustrations. Dublin, 1854, \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n137 \n\n\n\n\nlike summit is 1,635 \nfeet above the sea. \nBallycastle is the \nprincipal town to \nbe met with after \nLarne. It is compa- \nratively new, that is, \nscarcely a century \n\n\n\nThe Grey-Man\'s Palh. \n\n\n\n138 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nand a quarter old, and owes its advantages to the energy and foresight of one \nman, Hugh Boyd, who without considerable fortune, or great natural connec- \ntions, or superior talents, opened public roads, formed .. harbor, built a town, \nestablished manufactures, and lived to see a wild country cultivated and active \nwith industry. He also, at his own expense, built a church, whose walls received \nhis body on the day of its consecration in 1756. After the demise of Boyd mis- \nfortune seems to have fallen on his life-project. In 1770 the Irish Parliament \naided improvements to encourage the coal works ; but the sand filled the harbor, \nand the mining operations failed. Since 1873 the latter have been resumed with \n\nsome prospect \nof success. The \ncollieries which \nare situated in \nan abrupt bank \nover-hanging \nthe sea between \nFair Head prom- \nontory and the \ntown, are sup- \nposed, says Mar- \nmion, to have \nbeen worked \n\neven as early as the time the Phoenicians traded with this country. Ham- \nilton, writing in 1 784, records the fact that some twelve years previous, the \nworkmen, in pushing forward a new adit, unexpectedly broke through the rock \ninto a cavern. The hole was not very large, and two lads with candles were \nmade to creep in to explore this new region. Going forward they entered an \nextensive labyrinth branching off into numerous apartments, in the mazes of \nwhich they were completely lost and their lights extinguished. Opening a pas- \nsage, the workmen in the drift extricated the lads after a night\'s imprisonment. \n" On examining this subterranean wonder, it was found to be a complete gallery \nwhich had been driven forward many hundred yards to the bed of coal ; \xe2\x80\x94 that it \nbranched off into various chambers, where the miners had pushed on their differ- \nent works; \xe2\x80\x94 that pillars were left, at proper intervals, to support the roof; \xe2\x80\x94 in \nshort, it was found to be an extensive mine, wrought by a set of people at least as \nexpert in the business as the present generation. Some remains of the tools, and \neven the baskets used in the works, were discovered, but in such a state that on \n\n\n\n\nKeiibanc \xe2\x80\x94 looking over Ballycastle Bay to Fairhead. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n139 \n\n\n\nTjeing touched they immediately fell to powder. The antiquity of this work is \npretty evident from hence, that there does not remain the most remote tradi- \ntion of it in the country ; but it is still more strongly demonstrable from a \nnatural process which has taken place since its formation, for stalactite pillars \n\nliad been generated, reaching from the ^^ \xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\x94 ^-- ___^ -^^ \n\nroof of the pit to the floor ; and the sides \nand supports were found covered with \nsparry incrustations, which the present \nAvorkmen do not observe to be deposited \nin any definite portion of time." * Dr. \nWm. H. Drummond, in a note to his poem \n" The Giant\'s Causeway," throws a doubt \non Hamilton\'s theory regarding the an- \ncient working of these mines, by stating \nthat they had been wrought " about \neighty years j^rior to the discovery of \nthe chambers alluded to." This doubt, \nhowever, is removed by a circumstance \nwhich seems to carry conclusion with it \nin the minds of several writers ; it is this : \nthat Bruce\'s Castle on Rathlin Island, over seven miles distant, was built with \nlime burned with sea coal, the cinders of which are visible in the mortar and bear \na strong resemblance to those of Ballycastle coal. The suspicion that the coal \nmight have been brought from England, is untenable for several reasons : first, \nat the time the castle was built, the English had but just discovered the use of \nsea coal as fuel ; second, the English collieries were not then generally worked ; \nthird, we find that in the time of Edward I., sea coal having been tried in Lon- \ndon, its use was prohibited on the ground that the vapor was noxious to the \npublic health ; and fourth, if the English did export coal it would be to some \nplace of commercial character ; and the British charts of the period do not lay \ndown a single village in all this line of coast.f \n\nSouth of Ballycastle, , at the eastern base of Knocklayd, is the Vale of \nGlenshesk, the road through which leads to Armoy, where are the remains \nof an ancient tower. The coast cliffs are crowned by castle ruins. Doonany is \n\n\n\n\nCarrick-a-Rede and Sheep Island. \n\n\n\n" Letters concerning the Northern Coast of the Countiy of Antiiin, containing a Natural History of its Basalles, etc. \nEy the Reverend William Hamilton, A.M., Fellow of Trin. Coll. Dub. ,1786. Pp. 33-35. \nf Hamilton, p. 27. \n\n\n\n140 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nKcnbanc Ca:,tk,f) out Southeast\xe2\x80\x94 Raihlin in the distance. \n\nclose by; Duncurry, on a cliff 300 feet high, within a mile and a half; and \nthree miles westward McAllister\'s Castle on Kenbane {Keji-ban), the white head, \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n141 \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCat lick a-Redt at flu Rope \nBt idze \n\n\n\n\'I \n\na pictures- \nque rock of \nwhite limestone \nin the midst \nof the basalt. \nIt is connected \nwith the main- \nland by a nar- \nrow ledge, and \nthe chalk is worn by the waves into \nseveral fantastically shaped caves. The \nmost remarkable cave in the vicinity is a \nsort of mmiature of Fingal\'s at Staffa, \ncalled Grace Staples\' Cave, the columnar \npillars of which are regularly placed, \nas if art and not nature had arranged \ntheir position. Between this and Carrick-a-Rede there is a remarkable fissure \nin the rock, called the Bulye, made, according to tradition, by a stroke of the \nmighty sabre of Cuchullin, one of the Ossianic heroes. \n\n\n\n142 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nCarrick-a-Rede, so called from being a " rock in the road," which intercepts \nthe course of the salmon along the coast \xe2\x80\x94 is another highly striking promon- \ntory or islet on this romantic shore, which derives additional interest from being \nconnected with the mainland by a flying rope-bridge flung across an appalling \nchasm. The island is over three hundred feet high, and contains about two and \na half acres ; and the frightful bridge, made for the accommodation of fisher- \nmen in summer-time, is constructed in a \nsimple manner. Two strong cables are \nextended across the gulf by an expert \nclimber and fastened firmly into iron \nrings mortised into the rock. Between \nand upon these ropes boards a foot In \nbreadth are laid crosswise in succes- \nsion, on which other boards are fastened \nlengthways by cross-cords, and thus the \naerial pathway is formed, which, though \nbroad enough to bear a man\'s foot with \ntolerable convenience, does not by any \nmeans hide from view the pointed rocks \nand raging sea beneath. This light \nand airy contrivance, swaying and un- \ndulating in a space sixty feet wide, and \nover a chasm ninety feet deep, presents \nan appearance of danger which unde- \nniably affects even persons of strong nerve. The greatest caution is necessary in \nusing the hand-rope placed on one side as a guide. The slighest inadvertence in \nplacing too much weight on it would precipitate the passenger headlong into the \nsea, or Avhat is worse, on to the rocks. It is, as Hamilton suggests, a beautiful \nbridge in scenery, but a frightful one in real life. The people in the habit of \nusing it, however, pass and repass with apparent ease ; and even the fishers\' \nwives and sons carry burdens across with evident contempt of danger. Still, \nfrom a boat in the water, and gazing upward, it is painful to see people \ncrossing the bridge, and distressing to anticipate the imminent danger to which \nthey are incessantly exposed in their struggle for existence. \n\nIt may be asked, says a writer, why the fishermen do not spare them- \nselves the trouble of throwing across this very dangerous bridge, and ap- \nproach the island by water ? and the answer Is given that It Is perfectly \n\n\n\n\nCarrick-a Rede \xe2\x80\x94 Base of the Chasm. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. 143 \n\nimpracticable, owing to the extreme perpendicularity of the basaltic cliffs on \nevery side, except in one small bay, which is only accessible at particular \nperiods. The residents in the little cottage on the island comprise the clerk \nand the fishermen, who remain only during the summer months. "This sal- \nmon fishery, and indeed all those along the northern coast, are very produc- \ntive. The fishermen are paid, and all the expenses of fishing defrayed, by \nproportionate allowances of salmon." There is a beautiful and remarkable \ncave of unsupported basaltic columns, thirty feet high \xe2\x80\x94 the bases of which \nhave been washed away or otherwise removed \xe2\x80\x94 in the cliffs near the island. \nThe shores around Carrick-a-Rede are exceedingly picturesque, and the surface \nwhich alternates with the high cliffs and rocks very beautiful, romantic, and fer- \ntile. One of the finest views afforded on the whole coast of Antrim is obtained \nfrom a little eminence above the path leading from the old Ballycastle road \ndown to "the Rock in the Road." \n\nProceeding west through the hamlet of Ballintoy, and by the bay of the \nsame name, we reach, at a distance of some four miles, the remarkable rock and \nruins of Dunseverick. The rock is isolated, of perpendicular form, one hundred \nand twenty feet in height, and about half an acre in area on the top. The Cas- \ntle is a solitary remnant of a ruin like that at Kenbane and other cliff castles on \nthis coast, and the whole presents a strikingly romantic and suggestive aspect. \n" Immense masses of the rock have been hewn away, evidently for the purpose \nof rendering the castle as inaccessible as possible. An enormous basaltic rock, \nsouth of the entrance, also appears to have been cut in a pyramidal form, and \nflattened on the top, perhaps as a station for a warder, or for the use of some en- \ngine of defense." The locality is invested with peculiar interest to the historical \nstudent from the fact that it perpetuates the name of Sovarkie, one of the earliest \nMilesian kings of Ireland, who with his brother Kermna, jointly ruled the king- \ndom nearly twelve hundred years before the Christian era. They were the first \nUlster kings of Ireland ; and the portion north of a line from Drogheda to Lim- \nerick was governed by Sovarkie, who built a fortress-palace named Dun Sovar- \nkie. The neighborhood naturally took the name of the fort, as Fort Washing- \nton and Fort Hamilton give names to places in the neighborhood of New York ; \nbut it is doubtful if the area of the rock, as seen at present, would have accom- \nmodated the dimensions of Dun Sovarkie. A portion of the fortress \xe2\x80\x94 a look-out \n\xe2\x80\x94 may have been on the rock, as it seems to be agreed by antiquarians "that a \nfortress existed here long before the introduction of Christianity." It was a \nchosen place for a stronghold, and the ruin, represented in the illustration, the \n\n\n\n144 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nwalls of which were eleven feet thick, is the remnant of one of the McQuillans\' \n\ncastles \xe2\x80\x94 subsequently occupied by the O\'Cahans \xe2\x80\x94 and dates to the twelfth century. \n\nThe tourist now has his choice of two routes to the Causeway \xe2\x80\x94 one by a \n\n\n\n\nBengore Head \xe2\x80\x94 The PleasLm, from i/u IVcst \n\nAvalk along the headlands, the other by the road to Bushmills, and thence to the \nCauseway, The author of Totirs in Ulster is justified in his selection of the \nformer, as being one of the most varied, most singular, and interesting walks to \nbe found in any country. Every step is replete with novelty. The thousand \nlittle objects, that can scarcely be named \xe2\x80\x94 grotesque fragments of rocks, little \ntiny amphitheaters scooped out of the cliffs \xe2\x80\x94 these, combined with the striking and \nmajestic features of the more celebrated points of view, keep the mind in a state \nof pleasing excitement, and produce impressions, such, perhaps, as no other class \nof scenery would impart. The same writer recommends the tourist to suitably \nprepare himself for this walk b}\' procuring No. 3 of the Ordnance Map of An- \ntrim for handy and frequent reference,"" to which we would add that his owm \nbook will be a useful pocket companion to the map. After Dunseverick we \n\n* Tours in Ulster, etc. By J. B. Doyle. Illustrated, 1S54. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n145 \n\n\n\n\nDiDiseverick Castle. \n\nmeet the rock of sorcery, Ben an Danaan, and next a fine cascade, where the \nstream from Feagh Hill plunges over the cliffs into Port Moon. \n\n\n\n146 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nThe leading features of this coast, as Hamilton remarks, are the two great \npromontories of Bengore and Fair Head, which are eight miles distant from each \nother : both formed on a great and extensive scale, both abrupt toward the sea, \nabundantly exposed to observation, and each in its kind exhibiting noble ar- \nrangements of the different species of columnar basalts. Fair Head has already \nbeen described. Bengore is\'about seven miles from Ballycastle. In reaching it \nfrom Dunseverick we pass some nine " ports," each from an eighth to a quarter of \na mile in extent, with its particular name, and some with striking rocks \xe2\x80\x94 such \nas the Hen and her Chickens, the Stack, the Four Sisters, which the guides will \n_,^\xe2\x80\x9e^^ ^ point out. Bengore, viewed at a dis- \n\ntance on sea, presents a headland pro- \nfile running out a considerable dis- \ntance from the coast into the ocean. \nStrictly speaking, however, it is made \nup of several capes, the tout ensemble \nof which forms what the seamen call \nthe Headland of Bengore. These \ncapes are composed of a variety of dif- \n^ ferent ranges of pillars, and a great \n- number of strata ; which, from the ab- \n!l ruptness of the coast, are extremely \n~ conspicuous, and form an unrivaled \npile of natural architecture, in which \nall the neat regularity and elegance of \nart is united to the wild magnificence of nature. \n\nIn every ocean view from Fair Head to Bengore, and indeed from points south- \neast of the former and far west of the latter, the Island of Rathlin (also called \nRagherry, Rachlin, Rachrin) is a prominent object, varying, of course, in size and \nposition, from the point of view. Its nearest points to the mainland are about \nthree miles from Fair Head, and five and a half from Ballycastle. Its form is a \nrude resemblance to a low-legged boot, the toe of which points to Ballycastle col- \nlieries, the top. Bull Point, to the Atlantic Ocean, and the heel, where Bruce\'s \nCastle is situated, to the Scottish coast of Cantyre, which is nearly fifteen miles \ndistant. From the top to the heel is five miles, and from the heel to the toe four. \nIts breadth varies from half a mile to a mile and a quarter. On the inside of the \nbend is Church Bay. The highest point on the northwestern part \xe2\x80\x94 North Kenra- \nmer \xe2\x80\x94 is 447 feet above the sea level ; and the cliffs all around the northern shores. \n\n\n\n\nBt iCLL i Lastle. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n147 \n\n\n\nfrom Bruce\'s Castle to the recess of Church Bay, veryprecipitous, averaging 300 \nfeet. This small island, surrounded as it is by a wild and turbulent sea, fortified \nby barriers of inhospitable rock, and containing little or nothing in itself to pro- \nvoke the rage of either avarice or ambition, might, suggests Dr. Drummond, \nbe supposed to have escaped the desolating scourge of war. But if its almost \ninaccessible retirement recommended it as a home for peace and religion, the \nlatter also awakened piratical cupidity ; while its commanding position and natu- \nral defenses suggested its use both as a warlike rendezvous, and as a refuge for \nthe heroic unfortunate. Hence history records many pages of blood and rapine \non the little thea- \nter of this island. \nIt has felt the fury \nand rapacity o f \nDanish, Engl ish \nand H e b r i d i a n \narms. The mon- \nastery established \nb)^ St. Columba, \nwith all its shrines \nwas ravaged and \ndestroyed in 790 , \nand again in 973 \n\nby the Danes, who, on their second descent, killed the abbot. The memory of a \ndreadful massacre by the Highland Scotch Campbells is still preserved ; and a \nplace called Sloe na Calleach ("slaughter of the old women ") perpetuates a tra- \ndition of the destruction of all the aged women of the island, by precipitation \nover the rocks. The barbarian author of the atrocity was named MacNalreavy. \nHamilton remarks that in his time the memory of this deed was so strongly im- \npressed on the inhabitants that no person of the name of Campbell was allowed \nto settle on the island. After the disgraceful execution of William Wallace, by \nEdward I., and the disruption of Scottish claims and rights, Robert Bruce found \na refuge here when forced to leave his native country. He was pursued, how- \never, and the remains of the fortress, on the northern angle of the island, cele- \nbrated for the defense which the hero made in it, is still known as Bruce\'s Castle. \nThe antiquity of this building is nearly six centuries; indeed, "it maybe consider- \nably older, as the time which Bruce spent in Rathlin was scarce sufficient for \nthe purpose of erecting it." Here it was that the Bruce received the lesson in \n\n\n\n\nDoon Point. \n\n\n\n148 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nThe Giant\'s Granny. \n\n\n\nperseverance from watching the labors of a spider, which, after several failures, suc- \nceeded in securely fastening its web to a beam, that led him to the glorious field of \n\nBannockburn. Since then it \n,_\xc2\xbb7.T, has been held unlucky and \n\nungrateful, says Scott, for \none of the name of Bruce to \nkill a spider. The English \ninvaded Rathlin unsuccess- \nfully in 1 551; but seven \nyears later the Lord-Dep- \nuty Sussex drove out the \nScots with great carnage. \n\nRathlin \xe2\x80\x94 the Ricina of \nPtolemy \xe2\x80\x94 has long been \nan object of study as well \nas of curiosity, on account of the similarity of its shores to those on the coast of \nAntrim, from which, it is supposed, it has been severed by some awful convulsion. \nGeologists agree that the structure of the island and the adjacent mainland are \nidentical, and Hamilton was of opinion that \nthis island, standing between the coasts of \nAntrim and Scotland, may be the surviving \nfragment of a large tract of country, which at \nsome period of time has been buried in the _ \ndeep, and may have formerly united Staffa -^^ \nand the Giant\'s Causeway. The island is "fi= \nprincipally occupied by those basaltic beds ^fe:- \nwhich are classified by Dr. Berger under the ~ \n\nheads : tabular basalt, columnar basalt, green- \nstone, graystone, porphyrj\', bole or red ochre, wacke, amygdaloidal wacke, and \nwood-coal ; and imbedded in them are granular olivine augite, calcareous spar, \nsteatite, zeolite, iron pyrites, glassy feldspar, and chalcedony. Doon Point, on \nthe eastern coast, is regarded as a beautiful and remarkably curious development \nof the process of basaltic formations, presenting, as it does, a combination of per- \npendicular, horizontal and bending pillars. It is thought "more worthy of obser- \nvation than the Causeway, and better calculated to explain the phenomenon of \nthe basaltic crystallizations." Its base resembles a mole composed of erect columns \nlike those of the Giant\'s Causeway; over the extremity of this mass, others appear \n\n\n\n>% \n\n\n\n\' r- \n\n\n\n\nThe Lion\'s Head. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n.. r \n\n\n\nHill-\' \':\'i*l\'t\'l-\' \n\n\'*\' iilflf t* tlfitH I \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nm^4 \n\n\n\n-\xc2\xa3fi\xc2\xbb- \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nPLEASKIN\xe2\x80\x94 GIANT S CAUSEWAY. \n\n\n\nISO PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nin a bending form, as if they had slid over in a state of softness, capable of accom- \nmodating themselves to the course of their descent, and thus assuming the figure \nof various curves in consequence of the action of gravity ; over all, several pillars \nare disposed in a horizontal position, such as would accord with an hypothesis \nof their having just reached the brink of the ascent, where they were suddenly ar- \nrested and became rigid, lying along with their extremities pointing out toward the \nsea.* The channel between the main and the island is very turbulent, the eastern \nopening being insufficient for the press of waters from the Atlantic, which conse- \nquently returns in a counter-current tide westward for thirty miles, while the true \ntide is running east. The channel is called the Valley of the Sea {Sleuck na \nMassa), and also Brecan\'s Caldron, or hollow {Corrie-Brecaiii), in consequence of \nthe loss here of Brecain \xe2\x80\x94 son of Nial of the Nine Hostages \xe2\x80\x94 and his fleet of fifty \nCurraghs. Nothing can be grander than the Atlantic rolling with the tide, but \nno sooner does the ebb oppose itself to this mighty mass of waters, than the wild- \nest confusion occurs, the waves foaming and tossing in a fearful manner. The \nrushing of the waters from the Scottish and Irish shores at each other is vividly \ndescribed in Cormac\'s Glossary. They are sucked down as if into a gaping cal- \ndron. " The waters are again thrown up, so that their belching, roaring, and \nthundering are heard amidst the clouds, and they boil like to a caldron upon a \nfire." In the Lord of the Isles, founded on adventures of Bruce after he left \nRathlin, Scott alludes to the " roar " of " Corryvreken\'s whirlpool rude." \n\nReturning to Bengore, from which we were attracted by Rathlin, we resume \nour observations on the coast line. Bengore proper presents a broad convexity \nto the sea, forming a striking contrast to the semicircular bays and pointed capes, \nthe most perfect of which is called the Pleaskin {Pleasg-ke7i, the dry head). \nNear the former is the remarkable natural pillar which, thanks to the guides \nand custom, is called " The Giant\'s Granny." Passing westward by Port na \nTrughen \xe2\x80\x94 Lamentation harbor, so called from the woful moans, as of human \nvoices, issuing from the caves \xe2\x80\x94 we meet the "Giant\'s Pulpit," hanging over the \nsea, the perpendicular rock called the " Giant\'s Ball Alley," the " Twins " off the \nfine headland called Ben-bane na Parage (the white cliff of the sea), and the red \nsandstone group called the " Lion\'s Head " a little east of Horse-shoe Harbor, \nand finally Port na Pleaskin, before we reach the splendid semicircular precipice \nof Pleaskin itself. Sir John Forbes thinks It the most beautiful and pictur- \nesque of these cliffs, and that In which the various strata, particularly the colum- \n\n* See Hamilton, p. 128 ; Drummond, pp. 168-171. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n151 \n\n\n\n\nnar, are more regularly shown. However we may agree with Sir John, that \n" no drawing would do full justice to its splendor and magnificence, as seen in the \nmorning sunshine from the boat;" still it will be seen that in the bold profile \nviewfrom the east, given by our artist, its remarkable features alluded toby Ham- \nilton \xe2\x80\x94 whose description in its combination of scientific accuracy and pictorial \neffect has not been bettered by any writer since \xe2\x80\x94 are suggestively conveyed. \n\nThe summit of Pleaskin is covered with a thin grassy sod, under which lies \nthe natural rock, having generally an uniform hard surface, somewhat cracked \nand shivered. At the depth of twelve feet from the summit, this rock begins to \nassume a columnar tendency, and forms a \nrange of massy pillars of basalt, which stand 1 \n\nperpendicular to the horizon, presenting, in \xe2\x80\x94 ^ , \' \n\nthe sharp face of the promontory, the appear- \nance of a magnificent gallery or colonnade, \nupward of sixty feet in height. This colon- \nnade rests on a solid base of coarse, black, \nirregular rock, sixty feet thick, abounding in \nblebs or air-holes \xe2\x80\x94 but though comparatively \nirregular, it may be observed to affect a pe- \nculiar figure, tending in many places to run into regular forms, resembling the \nshooting of salts and many other substances duringa hasty crystallization. Under \nthis great bed of coarse stone stands a second range of pillars, between forty and \nfifty feet in height, less gross and more sharply defined than those of the upper \ncolonnade, many of them, on a close inspection, emulating even the neatness of \nthe columns in the Giant\'s Causeway. This second range is supported on a \nlayer of red ochre stone, which serves as a relief to show it to great advantage.* \nThese two admirable natural galleries, together with the interjacent mass of \nirregular rock, form a perpendicular height of one hundred and seventy-five feet ; \nfrom the base of which, the promontory, covered over with rocks and grass, slopes \ndown to the sea for the space of two hundred feet more, making in all a mass \nof nearly four hundred feet in height, which in beauty and variety of its coloring, \nin elegance and novelty of arrangement, and in the extraordinary magnitude of \nits objects, cannot readily be rivaled by anything of the kind at present known. \nThe cliff appears as though it had been painted for effect in various shades of \n\n\n\nThe Kin^ anil Ins \\ool, \\ j > oin tiu llisl. \n\n\n\n* " The only instances of different ranges of basalts that have hitherto been discovered, occur in the valuable work of \nM. Faujas de St. Fond on the volcanoes of Viverais, etc. ; but the arrangement which appears there, even with the neat- \nness that always attends an engraving, is greatly inferior to that of Pleaskin." \xe2\x80\x94 Hamiltini. \n\n\n\n152 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ngreen, vermilion, red ochre, gray licliens, etc., its general form so beautiful, its sto- \nried pillars, tier over tier, so architecturally graceful \xe2\x80\x94 its curious and various strati- \nfications supporting the columnar ranges, here the dark-brown amorphous basalt^ \n\n\n\n\nThe Xiirsing Child \xe2\x80\x94 Priest and his Flock. \n\nthere the red ochre, and below that again the slender but distinct lines of wood- \ncoal; all the edges of its different stratifications tastefully diversified by the hand of \nnature, with grasses, ferns, and rock-plants. This theater of nature, composed \nof so many various strata harmoniously arranged, rock upon rock, and gallery \nupon gallery, so magnificent, so solitary, facing the wide Atlantic as if formed \nfor the temple of "spirits from the vasty deep," impresses the mind with admira- \ntion and awe, and shows us how nature surpasses in the symmetry of her plans as- \nmuch as in the magnitude of her materials. From " Hamilton\'s Seat" three mag- \nnificent headlands open upon the view, with all their singular and beautiful \naccompaniments of fanciful objects, such as the " Sea Gulls," the " King and his \nNobles," the " Nursing Child," the " Priest and his Flock," and others ; but it is the \nPleaskin itself which rivets the attention. Sir Richard Colt Hoare thought the \nview of the three promontories " truly astonishing and pleasing;" and S. C. Hall \n\n\n\n\' "" mimi \n\n\n\nM \n\n\n\n\nI r n I \'lli, ^ \n\n\n\nI\'illiiiip^ \n\n\n\nCHIMNEY ROCK\xe2\x80\x94 GIANT\'S CAUSEWAV. \n\n\n\n154 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\neven more enthusiastic, says " it is impossible for painter to portray, or the imagi- \nnation to conceive, a walk of more sublime beauty " than that which we have \nindicated. See the Pleaskin from the water, if you can, but do not fail to see it \nby land ; for, exclaims the same writer in advocacy of his urgent advice, " the \nwonders of the Causeway, the grandeur of Fair Head, the dells and glens, the \nchanging yet perpetual beauty of Cushendall and Cushendun, of Glenarm and \nRed Bay, of all the Antrim coast and scenery \xe2\x80\x94 sink into comparative insignifi- \ncance before the combined grandeur and loveliness of the Pleaskin." \n\nThe large illustration of the Pleaskin indicates the character of the formations \n\nbeyond, and one of the "Sea Gull" \n\n^^ \xe2\x80\x94 \'^US*\' ^^- 3^^^&^^k Isles on the right ; there is another \n\n^[|| of the same name in Port Noffer. The \n\nillustration on page 152 presents a sug- \ngestive view of the line of promontories, \nfrom that over the " Nursing Child," \nnear the center, which separates Port \nna Tober (the harbor of the well) \nfrom Port na Callian (the old woman\'s \nharbor), to the " Chimney Tops," on \nthe headland to the extreme right ; \nand between them the group of rocks \nin the latter port, called the " Priest \nand his Flock." \n\nGetting over the "Horse\'s Back," \nthe headland at the western extremity of Port na Callian, we behold Port na \nSpania, or Spanish harbor, so named from a vessel of the famous " Invincible Ar- \nmada" having been lost here. In this port is a stupendous precipice, almost \nequal to the Pleaskin ; and the formation of the pipe-like pillars on the perpen- \ndicular rock naturally suggested for the particular spot the title of the " Spanish \nOrgan." Some islands and another little port, Madadh Ruadh (red fox har- \nbor), are passed, and we arrive at the promontory over which the insulated pillars, \ncalled the " Chimney Tops," are pinnacled. The tallest of the " Chimneys " is forty- \nfive feet. Tradition says they derived their names from the fact that in the night- \ntime they were mistaken for the chimneys of Dunluce Castle by one of the ships \nof the Spanish Armada, which opened its batteries on and succeeded in break- \ning one of them. The ship was subsequently lost on the rocks in the little bay \nto the east. West of the Chimneys is Port Reostan, and the Roveren Valley, \n\n\n\n\nThe Cluinncy \'I\'ops\xe2\x80\x94Jroni tlic East. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n155 \n\n\n\nAvhere there is a remarkable whin-dike which cuts the face of the cliff, shaped \nexactly like a barbed arrowhead. \n\nOf the whin-dikes, which abound on the coast, this is esteemed a fine speci- \nmen. We have alluded to that of Carrig Maur at Fair Head. These dikes are \nwalls of whinstone, trap, or prismatic basalt, varying from a few inches to forty \nand fifty feet in breadth, penetrating to an unknown depth, and often attended \nby a softening or an induration, and a dislocature of the strata through which \nthey pass. Sometimes two of these walls or veins are seen running in parallel \nlines, and when they are interrupted by a chasm or arm of the sea, they rise on \nthe opposite side with the same dis- \ntance and parallelism. Thus acontinu- ^ \nation of the Antrim dikes is traced \n\non the Scottish shores.* Passing the ^ \'^i, \n\nbroad high rock, generally covered with \nthe birds which suggested the name of \nSea Gull Isle, we are in Port Noffer, a \ncorruption, no doubt of Port na Fhir, \nthe port of the man, meaning the giant \npar excellence, Finn Mac Cumhal (pro- \nnounced Mac Cool), who has given his \nname to the famous Causeway \xe2\x80\x94 which \nis now in sight, forming the western \nboundary of the harbor \xe2\x80\x94 as well as to \nall the remarkable formations about it. \n\nTo our left, rounding from the Sea \nGull, is a magnificent colonnade of pillars one hundred and twenty feet in \nheight on the side of the hill. It appears as though a landslide had disclosed the \nhidden range of vertical columns, which, in turn, seem to support the mountain \nabove them and to prevent its further descent. This is the Giant\'s Organ, a \nname not too fanciful for the striking suggestiveness of the effect produced. \n\n\n\n\nTlie Giant\'s Otgan. \n\n\n\n* See Drummoiid, Pref. xvii. Dr. Richardson on Whin-dikes; In addition to Hamilton, Richardson, rector of \nClonfecle, has written with much care, and recorded observations of great value on the northern coast. These, with \nPortlock\'s Geology, will serve to illustrate the interesting formation of the north with a comprehensiveness worthy of the \nsubject. See Doyle\'s Tours, etc., p. 249. Sir John Forbes, M.D.,in his Mefnorandunis, etc., 1853, gives an intelligent \nresume of information respecting the Giant\'s Causeway and its vicinity, paying merited acknowledgments to Dr. Rich \nardson\'s writings, and to the more recent and excellent work on the subject, Geological Notices of the Environs 0/ Belfast, \n<r^(r., by James Bryce, Jun., M.A., 1S52. \n\n\n\nIS6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nOpposite to this is the object of so much wonder \xe2\x80\x94 so many scientific visits, and \nso much speculation \xe2\x80\x94 the spot, as the poet Cowper sings, \n\n\n\n" Where Hilaernia shoots \n\nHer wondrous Causeway far into the main." \n\n\n\n\n\nThe Giant\'s Causeway \xe2\x80\x94 East \n\nHere, then, is the celebrated Giant\'s Causeway ! to arrive at which so much \nmagnificent scenery by land and coast has been traversed as a prelude to its widely- \ntrumpeted still grander Avonders. Here is the object, to see which, oftentimes, the \nhastily expectant traveler rushes unobservant through vastly grander and more \nbeautiful scener)\'. But it is not too much to say, that those who come with pre- \nconceived notions of the Causeway \xe2\x80\x94 in which imagination bodied forth the forms \nof things unknown, and presented to the "mind\'s eye" the sought-for object on \nas vast a scale as the glorious promontories in the neighborhood \xe2\x80\x94 suffer consid- \nerable disappointmen-. The majority of visitors indulge, from whatever cause, \nin such notions; hence the too general feeling on first reaching the Giant\'s \nCauseway is one of utter failure to realize the expectations indulged in. The \ndisappointment is in the ratio of the extravagant ideas formed of its magnitude.* \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0" " An inliabitant of the Alps would probably see but little grandeur in our basaltic mountains, though a cockney, who- \nhas never strayed beyond the suburbs of London, would be struck with as much terror as Gray felt in the vale of Kes- \n\n\n\nSf^, \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nu tl jiiliiiililitt li ti-iilik Ma \n\n\n\n\n\n158 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nPhysically speaking, the altitude and grandeur of Fair Head, Bengore and Pleas- \nkin more fitly realize their expectations, and having seen these, and having the \nappetite, so to speak, whetted more for the appreciation of the picturesque than \nthe analysis of the profound, the Giant\'s Causeway seems in comparison small \nand insignificant. \n\nThe view of the coast in the preceding illustration presents an accurate \nprofile of the Causeway from the east. On the left we see the great cliff over \nPort Notfer, in which a portion of the Organ is visible ; under, and separated \nfrom the rocky amphitheater by a short space, the vertical columns of the chief \n\n(eastern) mole of the Causeway rise to nearly \nforty feet \xe2\x80\x94 the part is called The Loom \xe2\x80\x94 \nand diminish by degrees as it stretches out \nand sinks into the ocean. As the Causeway \nis the western extremity of Port Noffer, it \nforms the eastern boundary of Port na Ganye \n(sandy harbor), the western end of which is \nsentineled by the Steucans, the two pyramidal \nThe Giants Well. rocks in the background. The illustration on \n\nthe preceding page (157), from the land side, \nwest, gives an excellent general view of the Causeway, the larger pier or mole jut- \nting out in irregular outline to the ocean, the pillars at the commencement show- \ning an inclination toward the west. The Middle Causeway is of a pyramidal con- \nfiguration, and rises in the central part, called the Honeycomb, to a height of \nthirty feet. The Little Causeway, to the left of the latter, is the smallest, and \npartially hidden by intervening rocks on the land side. Over the Great Cause- \nway we see Port Noffer and the sheer headlands passed on the approach from \nthe east. \n\nHaving arrived at the Causeway, having stood upon it, the feelings undergo a \ntransition. The first impression fades away when one begins to contemplate the \nstructure and arrangement of the substance on which he is standing. As Forbes \nsays, "it is neither grand nor picturesque, yet it is calculated to excite in the mind \nof every beholder feelings the most profound and various, and to inspire an \nintensity of interest rarely awakened by mere material nature." He seems \nto identify himself with the feelings e.xpressed by another and previous writer \nalready quoted, that no matter how much the first appearance may disappoint, a \n\nwick. I have he.ird uf a colonel who was so much overpowered by his fears on going down the approach to the Giant\'s \nCauseHay, tl)at lie r. quired two or tliree brother officers to support him." \xe2\x80\x94 Drumvtond. \n\n\n\nANTRIM. IS9 \n\nnear inspection will awaken ideas of wonder in the most vulgar, and arouse the \nscientific mind to admiration and delight. The want of magnitude in the Cause- \nway is compensated by its extraordinary beauty and singularity, and when once \npacing the polygenic pavement, amazement takes the place of disappointment, \nand the tourist "will not consider that he has journeyed too far, or undergone \ntoo much fatigue, to examine with his own eyes this wonder of the world." The \nmore it is examined, the more is wonder excited, until one is subdued into sensa- \ntions of profound admiration which might find expression in the words of the \npoet, who exclaims : " Here is the temple, and the altar of Nature, devised by her \nown ingenuity, and executed with a symmetry and grace, a grandeur and a bold- \nness which Nature only could accomplish. These cliffs faced with magnificent \ncolumns ; those broken precipices of vermilion-colored rock ; yon insulated pil- \nlars, obelisks erected before Greece boasted of her architectural skill, or Egypt \nlaid the foundation of her pyramids, proclaim the power and wisdom of the Crea- \ntor. This mole too, so firmly bound and cemented, surpasses the harmony of \nart, and in stability and grandeur, sets all the efforts of rivalship at defiance. It \nis a monument saved from the convulsion which sunk a continent, and produced \nthe disruption of the isles. For a period beyond all written records it has borne \nthe fury of the waves and tempests, yet still it is solid and unimpaired as when \nfirst it was laid, and it seems to claim a duration coeval with the structure of the \nworld." \n\nAnd what is this wonder that so conquers disappointment, and commands \nthe deepest words of contemplative admiration, even amid scenes of rare and \nunique magnificence ? It can only be described literally. The Giant\'s Causeway \nis composed of three divisions, the Little Causeway, the Middle Causeway, and \nthe Great Causeway. The whole projects from the base of a steep promontory \ninto the sea between ports Noffer and Ganye, and is formed of perpendicular \npillars of basalt which stand in contact with each other, resembling somewhat a \nhoneycomb. The pillars, which are computed to amount to forty thousand, and \nto occupy about three acres in superficial area, are irregular prisms diversified in \nsize and form, exhibiting every number of sides from three to nine, and having \ndiameters varying from fifteen to twenty-six inches. The majority have five, six, \nand seven sides, but the hexagonal columns are as numerous as all the others to- \ngether. A few have four and eight sides ; only three, it is said, have been found \nwith nine sides; and only one with three. On minute inspection each pillar is \nfound to be separable into several joints, ranging from four inches to four feet, \nand two joints are rarely, if ever, of the same length in the same pillar. On the \n\n\n\ni6o \n\n\n\nPICTURES Q UE I RE LA ND. \n\n\n\neastern side of the grand Causeway one of the pillars has thirty-eight joints, and \ntwo have been broken off. The articulation of the joints is neat and compact \nbeyond expression, so much so, that the blade of a penknife cannot be inserted \nbetween them : the convex termination of one joint always meeting a concave \nsocket in the next, besides which, the angles of one frequently extend over those of \nthe other, so that they are completely locked together, and can rarely be separated \nwithout a fracture of some of their parts. Although plainly visible, the joinings \nare so close and fine as to be impervious to water. There is no fixed rule as to \n\n\n\n\nit L \n\n\n\ni- \n\n\n\niiilQilij^dl \n\n\n\n\n\'.-I ,3, raw Shi ^Fi, I I \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTlie " Honey comb y Muidh Caustway^from Lttth LaU!,Luuiy . \n\nthe existence of either the convexity or concavity in the individual pieces, some \nhaving two convex ends, some two concave ends, and some one concave and one \nconvex. In no case is the concavity or convexity great, the vertical extent of \neither seldom being more, generally less, than one inch. The sides of each \ncolumn are unequal among themselves, but contiguous sides of adjoining columns \nare always of equal dimensions, so as to touch all their parts. Though the \nangles be of various magnitudes, the columns are as closely united laterally as the \njoints are vertically. Hence there are no void spaces among the basalts, the \nsurface of the Causeway presenting a compact pavement of polygon stones, as \n\n\n\n\nl|l|||||||l|!|i|j!l|j|ll|l|l|{| \n\n\n\ni62 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nperfectly water-tight in their lateral as in their vertical union. Indeed, water will \nremain over the angles of junction until removed by evaporation. On the west \nside, however, below the Giant\'s Punchbowl, in the midst of broken columns, there \nis a well of the purest water springing from between the fine interstices of the pil- \nlars, and keeping a perpetual and delicious supply for the thirsty traveler in a \nbasin made by the removal of a hexagonal joint. It is, of course, called the \nGiant\'s Well, as every object and curious formation \xe2\x80\x94 Chair, Pulpit, Ball-Alley, \nLoom, Theater, Organ, Gateway, etc., pertains to the mighty Finn, the son of \n\nCumhal, who \n\n" to Dalriada\'s coast \n\nLed the tall squadrons of his Finnian host," \n\nto check the incursions of the Scots. A short space separates the inner end of \nthe Causeway from the rocky amphitheater behind it, on the face of which are \nexposed many patches of columnar basalt, one of which is called the Horizontal \npillars, the prisms, as seen to the right of the steel-plate illustration, projecting \nhorizontally out of the cliff. Two of the whin-dikes, so numerous in the locality, \ncut across the prisms of the Causeway, and are the cause of its division into \nthree piers. The upper part of these dikes having been broken off, the result is \nthat the piers seem to be separated rather by hollows than by prominences. The \ntourist usually approaches the Causeway from the west, visiting first the Little \nCauseway, next the Middle, or Honeycomb, and last the Great Causeway, after \nexploring the extent of which, exit is made by the Giant\'s Gateway to the \nshore, where the fine colonnade of the Loom can be examined. The exact dimen- \nsions of the whole Causeway, as taken by a surveyor under the direction of Sir \nJohn Forbes, are \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nLength of Grand Causeway from north to south, low-water mark, . . . 720 feet. \n\nBreadth of ditto from east to west, .......... 180 " \n\nHighest point, " Loom," south end, .......... 35 " \xe2\x96\xa0 \n\nHeight of northwest point, . . . . ., . . . 13 " \n\nLengh of Middle Causeway from north to soutli, ....... 350 " \n\nBreadth of ditto from east to west, ......... 100 " \n\nHeight of " Honeycomb," ...... .... 30 " \n\nLength of Little or Western Causeway, 150 " \n\nBreadth of ditto from east to west 80 " \n\nHighest part . . . . . . . 20 " \n\n" Giant\'s Well " over low water, .......... 6 " \n\nBreadth of Whin-dike between Middle and Grand Causeway, . . . 50 " \n\nBreadth of the whole three Causeways from east to west, ..... 410 " \n\nAs may be seen from these measurements and the pictorial illustrations, the \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n163 \n\n\n\ngeneral surface of the Causeway is very irregular. It was noticed many years \nago that a twist was observable in the Great Causeway, the pillars dipping into \nthe sea tending eastward, while those of the south or inner end leaned to the \nwest. Mr. Bryce claims that the pillars of the three portions of the Causeway, \nall lean inward, which is accounted for by their standing "upon a concave de- \npression in the upper surface of the ochre bed, the pillars being at right angles \nto the concave surface." He states that he has traced some of the columns \nto their base and found them resting on the bed of ochre. This would seem \nto carry out the theory that the Causeway was the depressed continuation \nof the second range of pillars noticed \nat the Pleaskin, descending in its \nwestward course, denuded of the \nupper strata by some convulsion, of \nwhich the land-slide that developed \nthe Organ may be an indication, and \ngradually dipping into the sea, be- \ntween ports Noffer and Ganye. \n\nTravelers are variously impressed \nby the different objects and views. \nFor the German, Kohl, the Giant\'s \nAmphitheater seems to have had a \nTeutonic force and effect. He says \nit "is certainly the most beautiful \namphitheater in the world, that in \nRome not excepted. The form of it \nis so exact half a circle, that no architect could have possibly made it more so, \nand the cliff slopes at precisely the same angle all around to the center. Round \nthe upper part runs a row of columns eighty feet high ; then comes a broad \nrounded projection, like an immense bench, for the accommodation of the giant \nguests of Fin Mac Coul ; then again a row of pillars sixty feet high, and then \nagain a gigantic bench, and so down to the bottom, where the water is inclosed \nby a circle of black boulder stones, like the limits of the arena. This is a scene, \nin speaking of which no traveler need fear indulging in terms of exaggeration, \nfor all that he can say must remain far behind the truth." \n\nThese are the obvious external characters of this extraordinary pile of ba- \nsalts, observed and described with wonder by every one who has seen it ; but, \nas Hamilton observes, it is not here that our admiration should cease ; \xe2\x80\x94 whatever \n\n\n\n\nPort Coon Cave. \n\n\n\n1 64 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nthe process was by which nature produced that beautiful and curious arrange- \nment of pillars so conspicuous about the Causeway, the cause, far from being \nlimited to that spot alone, appears to have extended through a large tract of \ncountry, in every direction, insomuch that many of the common quarries, for \nseveral miles around, seem to be only abortive attempts toward the production \nof a Giant\'s Causeway. The mountain of Dunmull, lying between Coleraine and \nthe river Bush, abounds in this species of stone, particularly at the Craigsof Isla- \nmore, where two different ranges of columns were discovered. They may be \nseen also at Dunluce Hill, near the Castle of Dunluce ; in the bed of the river \nBush near the bridge of Bushmills ; on the summit of the mountain of Croagh- \nmore; in many parts of the high land over Ballintoy ; in the island of Rathlin, and \nvarious other places, through an extent of coast about fifteen miles long and two \nmiles wide. Beyond this tract, which abounds in perfect pillars, an attentive ob- \nserver will be able to trace the same species of fossils in very distant parts of the \ncountr}^, as far as the northern shore of Lough Neagh, and the mountains of the \nCounty of Derry ; in many places of which imperfect columnar forms may be \nobserved : so that the great cause which generated this species of stone has been \nexerted through a space of more than forty miles in length, and twenty in breadth ; \nthat is, through above eight hundred square miles. \n\nIn view of all the facts known, the German traveler already quoted gives ex- \npression to some thoughts with which the contemplative observer will readily \nunite in sympathy. " With all the explanations that can be offered, however, so \nmuch is left unexplained, that they answer very little purpose. On a close inves- \ntigation of these wonderful formations, so many questions arise, that one scarcely \nventures to utter them. With inquiries of this nature, perhaps not the least gain \nis the knowledge of how much lies beyond the limits of our inquiries, and how \nmany things that lie so plainly before our eyes, which we see and handle, may \nyet be wrapped in unfathomable mystery. We see in the Giant\'s Causeway the \nmost certain and obvious effects produced by the operation of active and power \nful forces which entirely escape our scrutiny. We walk over the heads of some \nforty thousand columns, all beautifully cut and polished, formed of such neat \npieces, so exactly fitted to each other, and so cleverly supported, that we might \nfancy we had before us the work of ingenious human artificers ; and yet what we \nbehold is the result of the immutable laws of nature, acting without any apparent \nobject, and by a process which must remain a mystery forever to our understand- \ning. Even the simplest inquiries it is often impossible to answer ; such, for \ninstance, as how far these colonnades run out beneath the sea, and how far \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n165 \n\n\n\n\nDunkirrv Cave. \n\n\n\ninto the land, which throws over them a veil as impenetrable as that of \nocean." \n\nWithout attempting to analyze the nature of the complex mental state \n\n\n\ni66 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nexperienced at the Causeway, or to trace is constituent varieties, Forbes thinks \nthe elemental feeling is wonder! Wonder at the mere outward and material \nobjects cognizable by the senses \xe2\x80\x94 wonder, tenfold wonder (to use his own words) \n" at the various and manifold conceptions and imaginations springing up instan- \ntaneously in the inner mind, like magical creations, around this one primary and \ncentral emotion." In expressing this feeling the scientist affords no mean stan- \ndard by which to judge of the object which compelled it, when he adds the hope \nthat he has not conveyed to others an idea of exaggeration or extravagance, or \nof emotions extended "beyond the sober amount of those commonly experienced \nby men who are lovers of nature, when they chance to be placed amid scenes \nhighly impressive." \n\nBoth Hamilton and Drummond call attention to the singular error cultivated \nby Mr. Pennant, when, referring to Sir Joseph Banks\' description of Fingal\'s Cave \nin the island of Staffa, he stated that "Staffa is a genuine mass of basalts of \nGiant\'s Causeway, but in most respects superior to the Irish in grendeur." Had \nhe contented himself with saying that Fingal\'s Cave excels in regularity of struc- \nture any cave on the coast of Antrim, he might have obtained credit. But to \nassert that the grandeur of Staffa will bear any comparison with the scenery of \nthe Giant\'s Causeway and its neighborhood, is so extravagant, that any one who \nrepeats it, may be fairly suspected of having never made both places the object \nof contemplation. The whole extent of Staffa is scarcely a mile in length, and \nnot half that space in breadth, and its greatest elevation does not exceed one \nhundred and twenty-eight feet. What is this compared to the great range of \npromontories from Port Noffer to Bengore, an undulating line of coast, extending \nupward of three miles, and rising in some places, as at Pleaskin, to an elevation of \nnearly four hundred feet, presenting, in a continual series of semicircular bays, \nin its gigantic colonnades, and the fantastic variety of its rocks, the most mag- \nnificent and unparalleled scenery? If, in the grand features of sublimity, Staffa \nsinks below comparison with the Antrim coast, it is also greatly inferior both \nin variety and beauty. Hamilton truly observes that" neither are the best speci- \nmens of pillars at Staffa at all comparable to those of the Giant\'s Causeway in \nneatness of form or singularity of articulation." \n\nIn caves, Antrim is romantically rich. Some writers say that its ancient \nIrish name indicated it as a land of caves. They abound everywhere along the \ncoast, penetrating the amorphous basalt of Cave Hill and the Gobbins, the red \nochre of Cushendall, the pudding-stone of Cushendun, and the limestone of Larne, \nBallintoy, and Dunluce. Some of these caves, particularly those of Cushendun \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n167 \n\n\n\nf-\' -\':^>f \n\n\n\n\n\n\nand Ballintoy. are dry and roomy, affording the fishermen good accommodations \nfor building and keeping their boats. Grace Staples\' cave is, as before stated, \nremarkable for its columnar uniqueness. Near to the Causeway \xe2\x80\x94 passing the \nSteuckans and Port na Baw (cow-port) \xe2\x80\x94 is Port Coon (ocean port), and its cave, \nwhich can be visited from land or sea. It is difificult to say which affords the \nfinest view, but to enter it in a boat and row into it for some two hundred and \nfifty feet is to experience a very novel sensation. The roof and walls, at some \nplaces forty-six feet high, are composed of onion basalt embedded in an argilla- \nceous cement of exceeding hardness. The sides are covered with a greenish slime, \nand the glancing of the trem- \nbling lights and the reflections \nof the water upon it produce a \nlurid and unearthly effect. To \nthis weirdness add the explo- \nsion of a gun, which crashes \nfrom arch to arch like a peal *^^\xe2\x84\xa2; \nof deafening thunder, till \nit rolls out of the cavern, \nand you have a vivid sug- \ngestion of some demoniac re- \ngion. Standing on the rocky \nfoundation in, and with the cave lit up from the interior, the effect is \xe2\x80\x94 if less \nstartingly sensational \xe2\x80\x94 not less picturesquely attractive. \n\nFarther west, between Port Coon and the Bush-foot-strand, is Dunkerry Cave, \nwith which, for grandeur, no cave in Antrim can compare. It is accessible only \nfrom the ocean, between two mural ridges of jet-black basalt. Passing this roof- \nless vestibule you enter the cave through a grand and striking portico twenty-six \nfeet wide ; and float beneath the dome, sixty-five feet over high-water mark. Its \nextent into the land has not been ascertained, owing to the contraction of the \nsides to a mysterious cleft, through which the waves are heard rolling and roar- \ning to a dark, deep distance ; recalling the strikingly imaginative lines of Ross \nWallace on other \n\n" Caves where banished gods might find \n\nNight large enough to hide their crownless heads.\' \n\nMeditations in America. \n\n\n\n\nBush Mill. \n\n\n\nThe lofty dome and walls, so far as observable, are overspread with a cover- \ning of green confervse, which suggests the idea that it might have been scooped \n\n\n\n1 68 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nout of solid emerald. A crimson zone of marine plants, some six feet in breadth \nabove the surface of the water, surrounds and adorns it ; adding to the richness \nof effect. Not the least thrilling circumstance of a visit to this remarkable cave, \nis produced by the motion of the water. It is easily observable that the swell \nof the ocean along this coast is at all times ponderously heavy \xe2\x80\x94 massive and \nvast in its surging motion as though continually testing the strength of the cliffs \nthat confront it. As wave after wave rolls into the cave, the water rises with \nsuch an apparently measureless and awful swell, as to convey an apprehension of \nan unceasing increase until the flood washed the dome. This creates an almost \nbreathless anxiety in any nervous person ; and is calculated to introduce a tremor \ninto the novel pleasure experienced by the stoutest. It is said that the roaring \nof the waters in this cave in the winter nights, breaks the rest of the cottagers a \nmile distant. \n\nBushmills, a little town near the end of the valley of the Bush, two miles and \na half from the Causeway, was named after the oldest mill in the north, the ruins \nof which were standing not very many j^ears back. The rapid waters of the fine \nstream have been wisely utilized for mills and shops, and the town gives its \nname to an excellent brand of whiskey distilled in it. The town is the property \nof the Macnaghtens, whose paternal care for it and the locality, is evinced in \nnumerous improvements, useful as well as ornamental. Dundarave, the family \nseat, a mile from the town, is situated on one of the heights overlooking the \nocean ; and commands a splendid prospect, east and west. \n\nLess than four miles distant, on the road to Portrush, we behold the next \ngrand object, Dunluce Castle, which is not only the most striking ruins on the \nAntrim coast, but perhaps the most picturesque ruins in Ireland. Like Dun- \nseverick it is situated on an isolated rock one hundred and twenty feet high, \nwashed on three sides by the ocean, and separated from the mainland by a \nchasm thirty feet wide, with which it is joined below by an. isthmus of rock ; \nand above by an arched wall some eighteen inches in thickness. A similar wall \noriginally ran parallel to this and was connected with it by a flooring. This \nhas perished long since, and the visitor to the ruins must cross the remaining \nnarrow path, the appearance of which does not tempt many to venture. The \noriginal date and builder of the castle are unknown ; but the work shows various \nperiods of erection. It is not improbable that De Courcy, who pursued his \nconquests as far as Dunluce, may have laid the foundation of the earlier portion, \nand that it was afterward enlarged and improved by the Mac Ouillans and Mac \nDonnells. It was taken from the English by a Mac Quillan in 15 13, and held \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n169 \n\n\n\nby him or his, until ou \ned by a Mac Donnell 1 \nder the protection \nJames I. soon after the \naccession of that mon- \narch. It is noteworthy \nthat the walls are built \nof columnar basalt, many \njoints of which are so \nplaced as to show three \npolygon sections ; and in \none of the windows of \nthe north side the build- \ner contrived to splay \noff the wall in a neat \nmanner by using the \njoints of a pillar whose \nangle was sufficiently ob- \ntuse to suit his purpose. \nThe walls are of great \nthickness. On the main- \nland are extensive ruins \nof more recent date than \nthe castle, which occupies \nthe entire summit of the \nrock, while a vast cavern \nperforates it below. The \ncastle\'s dark basaltic \nwalls, marked with the \nmellow tints of time, in \nsome places form a per- \npendicular line with the \nmural cliffs on which it \nis built, and in others \nseem to project or to \nstand without founda- \ntion, by reason of the \n\n\n\n\nI70 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nrocks\' decay. Its commanding position, and the number of its gables and tur- \nrets, resembling the ruins of a village destroyed by fire, inspire a high idea of its \nancient magnificence and lost splendor. Willis thought it the most picturesque \nruin he ever beheld, and lest this might seem extravagant praise, a writer in \nPichij^esqtce Ettrope adds \xe2\x80\x94 that " with all its massive greatness, its commanding \nposition, and all the surrounding accessories of land and water, backed by the \nCauseway,- and growing, as it were, out of the stupendous cliffs of which it seems \na part, that are eternally lashed by the ocean-waves, Dunluce Castle may claim \nto be as fine a specimen of baronial grandeur as any land can boast of." Bayard \nTaylor, who as a youth ventured across the arched wall, gives us a glimpse of \ncastle and cave in a storm. " An old man, who takes care of it for Lord Antrim, \non whose property it is situated, showed us the way down to the castle. We \nwalked across the narrow arch, entered the ruined hall, and looked down on the \nroaring sea below. It still rained, the wind swept furiously through the decay- \ning arches of the banqueting-hall and waved the long grass on the desolate \nbattlements. Far below, the sea foamed white on the breakers, and sent up \nan unceasing boom. It was the most mournful and desolate picture I ever be- \nheld. There were some low dungeons yet entire, and rude stairways, where, \nby stooping down, I could ascend nearly to the top of the towers, and look \nout on the wild scenery of the coast. Going back I found a way down the \ncliff to the mouth of a cavern in the rock, which extends under the whole castle \nto the sea. Sliding down a heap of sand and stones, I stood under an arch \neighty feet high ; in front the breakers dashed into the entrance, flinging the \nspray halfway to the roof, while the sound rang up through the arches like \nthunder. It seemed to me the haunt of the old Norsemen\'s sea-gods ! " \n\nDunluce Castle passed from the Mac Ouillans into the hands of Mac \nDonnell by treachery of the latter, who was a guest of the former ; and one \nof the latest historical circumstances of which it was the theater, presents a \nMac Donnell in turn as the victim of treachery on the part of another guest. In \n1642, General Munroe, making a visit to Mac Donnell, now Earl of Antrim, at \nDunluce, was received with honor and profuse hospitality, and availed himself \nof the opportunity to seize his unguarded host and send him in chains to Car- \nrickfergus. He took possession of this castle, and handed over the other castles \nof the earl in the Route and theGlynns to the Marquis of Argyle\'s Highlanders. \' \nUpon his restoration the earl abandoned Dunluce as a residence, for Ballyma- \ngarry, in the neighborhood. A fire occurring here in 1750, the seat of the \nAntrim family was transferred to the less wild but beautiful Glenarm. \n\n\n\n\nL^^^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\nANTRIM. 171 \n\nFrom Dunluce, on all sides splendid prospects are obtained. Looking west, \nthe view is really magnificent, embracing the White Rocks, Portrush, the cliffs \nof Magilligan, in Londonderry, and the mountains of Innishowen in Donegal, \nwith an illimitable range of ocean. The White Rocks are a strangely pic- \nturesque range of wave-worn rocks, a mile in length, between Dunluce and the \nbeach of Portrush. Within a stretch of two miles, it is said, there are some \ntwenty-seven caverns made by the waves on the white limestone \xe2\x80\x94 natural exca- \nvations in most fantastic shapes \xe2\x80\x94 tunnels, niches, and pointed arches. The \nremains of former caves far above the present level and action of the sea, \n\xe2\x96\xa0suggest many speculations to the observer. Portrush, a busy town, regarded \nas the port of Coleraine, is prettily situated within shelter of a noble headland, \nforming a peninsula, consisting of the celebrated Portrush Rock, which has been \nthe subject of learned and warm discussion among geologists. Having good \naccommodations and a fine sandy beach on each side, and being within easy \nreach of such world-renowned objects, it is a favorite watering-place. \n\nOf course, the weather permitting, an excursion in a four-oared boat along \nthis coast adds immeasurably to the interest. The full effect of the perpen- \ndicular precipices and their basaltic colonnades is experienced from the water. \nUnder certain combinations of sea and sky, optical illusions and aery pageants, \nsimilar to those in the Straits of Reggio, between Sicily and the coast of Cala- \nbria, are produced \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n" Where gay Morgana and her fairy train \nSport with the senses." \n\nThese phenomena have been seen between Rathlin Island and the main- \nland, and near Bush-foot Strand. A writer in the Christian Examiner, some \nyears ago, was a fortunate witness, and gave a lively idea of this wonderful illu- \nsion. The party had reached the center of the bay, and the whole shore from \nBengore to Portrush was observable. " Look, gentlemen !" said one of the boat- \nmen, "there are the merry dancers on Portrush Point," and on looking in that \ndirection the writer beheld the most extraordinary phenomenon. Portrush \nPoint, which a few moments before was the least interesting object on the coast, \nnow assumed a most commanding aspect. A lofty mountain arose instead of a \nlong flat \xe2\x80\x94 a conical peak like Croagh Patrick \xe2\x80\x94 rugged rocks with their serrated \npoints pierced the clouds ; and instantly all this vanished, and a beautiful softly- \nswelling wooded hill presented itself, a lofty embattled castle, a broad belt of \nfull-grown wood, green lawns, and all the decorations of a nobleman\'s domain. \n\n\n\n172 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nYou might conceive yourself at once transported to Plymouth Harbor, and that \nyou saw Mount Edgecombe before you. And, again, as by talismanic touch, all \nthis disappeared, and on a plain two embattled armies seemed to oppose one \nanother, and dense masses of troops, horse and foot, stood motionless, as if in \nsuspense for the battle signal, and now they rushed together, and the opposing \nbattalions closed on each other, and a loose shapeless cloud rose up, as if it \nwere the mingled dust and smoke ascending from the conflict ; and all at once \n\nthe whole vision \ndissolved away, and \nnothing was seen \nbut the 1 o w, un- \ninteresting penin- \nsula of Portrush. \nI had heard of \nthis phenomenon \nappearing on the \ncoast of Ireland. \nI had read some- \nthing like it as \noccurring in the \nStraits of Messina, \nand, on the present \n\noccasion, my astonishment and delight cannot be expressed. So vivid was the \ndelusion \xe2\x80\x94 so strange, so beautiful, so magnificent was the optical representation, \nthat were I in the remotest part of Ireland, and assured that I would see it \nagain, I should, without hesitation, and, at almost any sacrifice of time or trou- \nble, attend to witness it again. The boatmen assured me it was by no means of \nfrequent occurrence, and he who was best acquainted with its appearance said \nthat it required a concurrence of wind, tide, and weather that did not often coin- \ncide to produce it." \n\nHaving made the grand tour of the Antrim coast, and reached the north- \nAvestern boundary of the county, the tourist can proceed through the interior and \nvisit Lough Neagh and Shane\'s Castle by rail from Portrush. On the route the \nthriving town of Ballymoney is passed, and at about the center of the county, in \nthe midst of well-cultivated surroundings, we reach Ballymena, the second town \nin size and importance in the county ; and one of the most important linen and \nflax markets in Ireland. It has a population of nearly 7,000, and the sale of \n\n\n\n\nSliaiu s CastL Jioin LoiigJi Aeagh. \n\n\n\n\nVIEWS NEAR SHANE\'S CASTLE AND LOUGH NEAGH. \n\n\n\n174 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nbrown linens averages one million sterling (five million dollars) annually. Near \nthe town is a noted rath fifty feet high, in connection with which is another \nmound in the form of an amphitheater : and within sight is Slemish {Sleive MisJi), \n1,400 feet in height, where Saint Patrick as a captive youth filled the duties of a \nswineherd. On the Ahogill road, two miles from Ballymena, is the handsome \nvillage of Gracehill, a Moravian settlement founded in 1765. \n\nMidway from Ballymoney to Ballymena, are the Craigs rocks, which form a \nsquare of nine thousand feet in area, with a very deep trench, close to which are \nthree pillars erect and tapering, supposed to have been raised in honor of some \nvaliant chieftain slain in battle. A short distance from them, in the hollow \nof a high and craggy ridge, is a cromlech, or druidical altar \xe2\x80\x94 a slab of black \nheavy stone, one foot in thickness, ten feet long, and eight broad, originally \nplaced upon five supporters. Beneath this is a chamber which communicates \nwith two others, about seven feet square, and arched over \xe2\x80\x94 the whole standing \nwithin a circle of a hundred and thirty-five feet in circumference, the ground un- \nderneath having formerly Been hollowed into a kind of cavern. Mason\'s Statis- \ntical Szirvey observes that this place must have been the theater of great events \nin former times, and possesses more remains of antiquity than can be anywhere \nseen in the same space of ground. \n\nA visit to Lough Neagh, with the adjoining ruins, woods and plantations of \nShane\'s Castle, Massareene Park, and Ram\'s Island, is made to the best advan- \ntage from Randalstown, where the chief gate to the Shane\'s Castle demesne is \nlocated. The river Main also enters it here, and a handsome bridge of a single \nlofty arch over it connects Deer Park with the grounds. The latter, undulating, \nvaried and elegantly laid out, extend for three miles westward along the upper \nshores of Lough Neagh, and the timber, especially along the banks of the wind- \ning river, which enters the lough at some distance above the castle, is said to \nbe the most magnificent in Ireland. " Nowhere else," says Walker, " can be seen \nprimitive oak so large, or so venerable from age." \n\nThe ruins embrace the remains of the old residence of the O\'Neills, as well \nas those of a magnificent modern addition. The edifice was destroyed by fire in \n1 8 16. A deep and lasting interest attaches to the place as the residence of the \nO\'Neills, who for so many centuries were associated with the history of Ulster \nand of Ireland. Shane, who built the old castle, was one of the boldest and most \npowerful Irish chiefs of any period. He was virtually sovereign of Ulster, and of \ncourse was the object of intense hatred on the part of the English, who had him \ntreacherously assassinated at a feast, and vilified him dead as much as they feared \n\n\n\nANTRIM. \n\n\n\n175 \n\n\n\n\nLisburn. \n\n\n\nhim living.* In a private burial-ground in the demesne is the tomb of the \nClaneboy branch of the O\'Neills. The O\'Neill chair, the ancient stone seat \nupon which so many \nchiefs of this historic \nfamily were inaugur- \nated, is an interesting \nrelic. It originally \nstood on the hill of \nCastlereagh, about \ntwo miles from Bel- \nfast ; but after the re- \nverses of the race it \nwas overturned and \nneglected. In 1750 \nit was removed to \nBelfast, and built into the wall of the Market House ; on the demolition of which \nit was again displaced and became the property of Mr. Roger Walker, abarrister- \nat-law, of Rathcarrick in the County of Sligo. It is constructed of common \nwhin, or grit stone ; and the seat is lower and the back higher than of an ordi- \nnary chair. \n\nLough Neagh is the largest lake in the United Kingdoms, and is exceeded \nin extent by only three lakes in Europe. Its shores are in general uninteresting, \nand it is only from the northern and eastern sides that it presents any pictur- \nesque detail. It has none of the charms of lake scenery ; but presents the appear- \nance, rather, of " a little inland sea," being fourteen miles in length, by eleven in \nbreadth, and with a shore outline of some sixty-six miles. By the Ordnance Survey \nit contains 98,255, acres and is forty-eight feet above the sea at low tide. Sound- \nings made by Lieutenant Graves, however, show that in some places it is more \nthan 100 feet deep, or about fifty feet below the sea-level. It is supplied by five \nrivers and three streams ; and its only outlet is the lower Bann. It is famous \nfor its petrifactions and pebbles. The old tradition that the sudden overflowing \nof a fountain inundated the country supplied Moore with a well-known and beau- \ntiful figure in one of his melodies. Ram Island, which contains the remains \nof a round tower, is seven acres in extent \xe2\x80\x94 a spot of great beauty off the eastern \nshore, well laid out, planted with rose trees, and a profusion of flowering plants. \n\n* A vivid and vigorous sketch of this remarkable man will be found in The Lives and Times of Illustrious and \nRepresentative Irishmen, by Thomas Clarice Luby, A.B.T.C.D. Vol, I. \n\n\n\n1/6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nThe Shane\'s Castle demesne extends to the town of Antrim, an old place dating \nfrom A.D. 495, when Aodh, a disciple of St. Patrick, founded a monastery there. \n\nIt is situated on \nthe Sixmile -Wa- \nter, and separated \nfrom the lough \nby the demesne \nof Viscount Mas- \nsareene, which ex- \ntends two miles \nsouth along the \nshore. A san- \nguinary battle \ntook place here, \nwhen Sir Robert \nSavage, one of \nthe earliest \nAnglo-Norman \nsettlers, dealt \ngreat destruction \nto the native \nIrish. In 1649 \n\nit was burned by Munroe, and in 1 798 was the scene of a well-contested fight \nbetween the United Irishmen under Henry Joy McCracken and James Hope, \nand the Royalists under General Nugent. \n\nNear the town, in the plantation of Mr. Clarke, is a round tower ninety-five \nfeet high, the cone at the summit being twelve feet. It is forty-nine feet cir- \ncumference at the base, and the door is seven feet nine inches from the ground. \nAround the base great quantities of human bones have been found. \n\nReturning to Belfast, the reading student will be induced to visit Lisburn \xe2\x80\x94 \nseeing on the way the ruins of the round tower at Trummery. In addition to \nthe connection of Lisburn with the commercial staple of the north, it has many \nhistorical associations, but none perhaps of greater interest than that derived \nfrom the fact that Jeremy Taylor, the author of Holy Living, officiated and died \nthere, and that beneath the octagon cupola of its church is his monument, and \nthe pulpit from which the most eloquent divine of the English Church \xe2\x80\x94 the \nShakspere of English theology \xe2\x80\x94 delivered his famous sermons. \n\n\n\n\nRound Tower at Aiiirim. \n\n\n\nAlf^^MIM \n\n\n\n\n\nCnyrleliV, 187S, by TLumus Kolly, Nuw Y \n\n\n\nGALWAY. \n\n\n\n\nAbbey of Clare \xe2\x80\x94 Galway. \n\n\n\nIn territorial extent Galway is the second county in Ireland ; extending as it \n\xe2\x96\xa0does, from the Islands of Innishark and Innisbofifin, and the Arran Islands on \nthe western coast to the center of the kingdom, where the Shannbn, after re- \nceiving the Suck, takes a southwesterly course at Shannon Harbor, and then \nexpanding into Lough Derg, divides its most southern extremity from the coun- \n12 177 \n\n\n\n178 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nties of Tipperary and Clare. If the eastern portion of the county is flat and \nuninteresting, it contains a fine vein of land, from Gort by Loughrea to Ballina- \nsloe, supposed to be a continuation of the Golden Vale of the south ; and the \nnortheastern part about Dunmore is happily diversified by hill and dale. It is \nin the west, however, between Lough Corrib and the sea, that the tourist will \nindulge his passion for the wild and the picturesque. There are perhaps three \nhundred lakes of all sizes, twenty of which are navigable, in Galway. The \nlargest, and second only to Lough Neagh, is Corrib, which divides the county \ninto two unequal parts. On its west, with the bay of Galway on the south, and \n\nKillery Harbor on the north, are the districts known \nas lar-Connaught, Connemara, and Joyces\' Country. \nIn this region the artist can revel. In its conforma- \ntion it is peculiar, as, although mountainous, the \ndistrict is not specially an upland country such as we \nhave seen in Wicklow. Great part of lar-Connaught \nrises from the shore of Galway Bay by a gentle \nelevation to about three hundred feet, and at the \nupper edge to seven hundred feet : beyond this is a \nlow limestone country to the shore, and has but a \nslight elevation over the level, of Lough Corrib. \nJoyces\' Country, along the Killeries, is an elevated \ntract, with flat topped mountains from nine hundred \nto two thousand feet high, intersected by deep and \nnarrow valleys. Connemara, lying between these \ndistricts, and containing the highest peaks, as Maam Turk and Bennabola, is yet \nfor three-fourths of its extent less than one hundred feet above the sea-level. \nThe scenic effect is consequently peculiarly enhanced by the sudden altitude of \nthe mountains over the lakes and lowlands. \n\nIn the first quarter of the second century, a line drawn from Dublin to Gal- \nway divided the island between Conn of the Hundred Fights, and Eogan Mor, \nKing of Munster, also called Mogh Nuadath : the northern part being denomi- \nnated Leth-Conn (Conn\'s half), and the southern Leth-Mogha. In reference to \nthis partition the ancient bard sings : \n\n\n\n\nArch in the Claddagh. \n\n\n\n\' Great Eogan, fortune -favored chief, \nSoars high as Conn of the Hundred Fights- \nThese heroes twain, of glory bright, \nBetween them share green Eri\'s land. " \n\n\n\nGAL WAY. \n\n\n\n179 \n\n\n\nSoon after the Anglo-Norman incursion, William de Burgo and other leaders \nled their forces into Connaught, and after fierce contests with the O\'Conors, \nO\'Flahertys and other chiefs, got possession of a large portion of the territory. \nThe De Burgos became the most powerful family in this ancient kingdom, were \nits chief governors under the English kings, were styled lords of Connaught, and \nbecame earls of Ulster. On the assassination of William de Burgo, Earl of \nUlster, in 1333, and the marriage of his \ndaughter Elizabeth to Lionel Duke of Clar- \nence, son of Edward III., his titles passed \ninto the royal family of England, by whom \nthey are still held. The head of a younger \nbranch, Sir William, seized the De Burgo \npossessions here, and adopting Irish cus- \ntoms, called himself Mac William Eighter ; \nfrom his son Richard, a great part of Galway \ntook the name, and subsequently gave the \ntitle to the family \xe2\x80\x94 of Clan-Ricard. Sir \nEdmond also adopted the Irish language \nand customs, called himself Mac William \nOughter, seized the property in Mayo, and \nbecame the ancestor of the earls of Mayo. \n\nThe bay of Galway is considered to be \nthe Ansoba of Ptolemy, and the town, the \nNagtcata of the same geographer, described \nas the principal city of the western coast ; a belief strengthened by its original \nIrish name Czian-iia-guactie, meaning the port of the small islands. On the de- \nfeat of the Danish invaders on the east at Clontarf, the people of Galway, realiz- \ning the importance of its situation, built a castle for defense, which, exciting the \njealousy of the Munster kings, was twice destroyed by them, and restored by the \npeople of Connaught. At the time of the English invasion the castle was held \nby Hugh O\'Flaherty, who extended protection to the few families and the fisher- \nmen who comprised the town. De Burgo took the castle from the O\'Flahertys \nin 1232 and became master of the town. He lost both, but finally recovered \nthem, put up fortifications, and established a municipal government. The in- \ncreased security offered inducements to enterprise, and in the twelfth and thir- \nteenth centuries a settlement was made by thirteen Anglo-Norman and Welsh \nfamilies known as " the Tribes of Galway," who enriched themselves by com- \n\n\n\n\nStreet in Gtlway \n\n\n\ni8o PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nmerce and the purchase of land ; and whose descendants are among the leading \npeople of the county at the present day.\'" \n\n" The City of the Tribes " is a county within itself, advantageously situated on \nthe north side of Galway Bay, and built on both sides of the river which carries \noff the waters of Lough Corrib. There are three bridges over the river connect- \ning the old- and new town, and the district of the Claddagh which is close to the \nsea. As in most fortified towns, houses were crowded together in the old part ; \nand from intercommunication and the adoption of foreign customs it has a \nstrikingly foreign aspect. In the fourteenth century and later, extensive com- \nmercial relations existed between Spain and Ireland, and Galway was the only \nport much frequented by the foreigners. Rich Irish merchants visited and had \nbranch houses in Spain, and Spanish merchants settled in Galway. Intermar- \nriages naturally followed ; with Spanish luxuries, and houses having inclosed \ncourts, fortified gates, and archways across, or leading into the street. In Gal- \nway, says Kohl, the traveler will find "a quaint and peculiar city, with antiqui- \nties such as he will meet with nowhere else. The old town is throughout of \nSpanish architecture, with wide gateways, broad stairs, and all the fantastic or- \nnaments calculated to carry the imagination back to Grenada and Valencia." \n" I had heard," wrote Inglis, " that I should find in Galway some traces of its \nSpanish origin, but was not prepared to find so much to remind me of that land \nof romance. At every second step I saw something to recall it to my recollec- \ntion. I found the wide entries and broad stairs of Cadiz and Malaga ; the \narched gateways, with the outer and inner railing, and court within, needing only \nthe flower vases to emulate Seville." Some of those reminders of the merchant \nprinces still exist, divided into tenements, and occupied by the poorest inhab- \nitants. Until recently the best example of these Spanish-Irish structures was the \nhouse of James Lynch Fitzstephen, the Mayor, or Warden of Galwa3^ in 1493, \nwhose "more than Roman act of justice" in executing his own son Walter for \nmurder, has been several times celebrated by pen and pencil. The most popu- \nlar form of the tragic romance is briefly, as follows : \n\nJames Lynch Fitzstephen, one of the merchant princes, was Chief Magis- \ntrate of Galway in 1493. On a recent visit to Spain he had brought back with \nhim the son of a Spanish friend Gomez, who enjoying his hospitality became \nthe intimate associate of his only son. This youth, Walter, in his twenty-first \n\n* The names of these families were Athy, Blake, Bodkin, Browne, D\'arcy, Ffont, Ffrench, Joyes, Kirwan, Lynch, \nMartin, Morris, Skerrett. Other names of settlers of this period are given by various authorities, as, Bevmingham, \nBlundel, Deane, Dillon, Lawless, and White. \n\n\n\nGAL WAY. \n\n\n\nt8i \n\n\n\n\nWardett LyjicKs House, 1493. \n\n\n\nyear, had qualities of person and mind \n\nwhich rendered him the object of much \n\npopular admiration ; while the more \n\ndangerous elements of his disposition \n\nwere supposed to be restrained by his honorable devotion to a young lady of \n\nfamily and fortune. A splendid entertainment of betrothal took place at which \n\nyoung Walter fancied his intended bride gave too much regard to his Spanish \n\nfriend. Accusing her of unfaithfulness, she disdained, to reply, and the lovers \n\n\n\n1 82 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nparted in anger. Misconstruing her indignant silence, and receiving what he \ndeemed confirmation of his suspicion by seeing Gomez leave her house \xe2\x80\x94 where \nhe had spent an evening at the invitation of her father \xe2\x80\x94 the frenzied Walter \nrushed on his friend, who, alarmed by the rage of a pursuer he did not recognize \nin the dark, fled toward the shore. Here Walter overtook the young Spaniard, \nplunged a poniard in his heart, and flung the body into the sea. The passionate \nyouth was now horror-stricken, and fled to the recesses of a wood, Avhere he \npassed the night a prey to the fearful thoughts inspired by his lost happiness \nand terrible crime. His only consolation was in the firm resolution of surrender- \ning himself to the law. Returning with this intent he found the town in com- \nmotion \xe2\x80\x94 for the sea had thrown its dead to light \xe2\x80\x94 and his father, accompanied \nby the retinue of justice, abroad on horseback leading the search for the criminal \nwho had outraged hospitality and the law of God. The venerable magistrate had \nno suspicion that his only son was the assassin of his friend and guest ; but when \nWalter proclaimed himself the murderer, a conflict of feeling seized the wretched \nfather beyond the power of language to describe. He finally ordered the guard \nto secure him. Young Lynch was tried, found guilty, and sentenced to death by \nthe judge, who was his father. On the day of the execution an effort was made \nby the relatives of the youth\'s mother \xe2\x80\x94 the Blakes \xe2\x80\x94 and a great concourse of \narmed people to rescue him. The Warden exhorted them to submit to the laws \nof their country, but finding his efforts fruitless to accomplish the ends of justice \nat the accustomed place and by the usual hands, he, by a desperate victory over \nparental feeling, resolved himself to perform the sacrifice which he had vowed \nto pay on its altar. Still retaining a hold of his unfortunate son, he mounted \nwith him by a winding stair within the building that led to an arched window \noverlooking the street, which he saw filled with the populace. Here he secured \nthe end of the rope, which had been previously fixed around the neck of his son, \nto an iron staple, which projected from the wall, and, after taking from him a last \nembrace, he launched him into eternity. \n\nThe intrepid magistrate expected instant death from the fury of the popu- \nlace, but the people were so much overawed or confounded by the act, that they \nretired slowly and quietly to their dwellings. The innocent cause of this sad \ntragedy died soon after of grief, and the unhappy father of Walter Lynch se- \ncluded himself during the remainder of his life from all society. Lombard Street, \nin which his house recently existed, is still known as " Dead Man\'s Lane." In \n1524, a skull and cross-bones executed in black marble were inserted over the front \ndoor, with the motto, " Remember deathe, vaniti of vaniti, and all is but vaniti." \n\n\n\nGAL WAV. \n\n\n\n183 \n\n\n\nAmong the architectural relics of Galway is the Collegiate Church of St. \nNicholas, which, though not imposing, is a venerable pile, having been built in \n\n\n\n\nMarket of the Claddagh Fishermen. \n\n1320. The Warden, just alluded to, during his magistracy added the "choir at \nthe west end," and " put painted glass in the windows." \n\nGalway was formed into a county by Elizabeth\'s lord deputy Sidney, in 1565, \nand got its name from the chief town, which was so called from the river, which \nderived its name from a woman who was drowned in it, named in Irish Gail- \nlimh, pronounced Galliv, and anglicized Galway. In the struggle between Charles \nI. and the Parliament, the town held out against both, and neither Cromwell nor \nIreton, after their successes in Ireland, attempted to reduce it. \nIn 1652, it surrendered to Coote with an overwhelming parlia- \nmentary force, on condition " that their privileges should be \nguaranteed, native prisoners liberated without ransom, and a \nrestoration of all captured property." In 1690 and \'91, it was \nstrongly garrisoned by James II. ; but in the latter year it was \ninvested by De Ginkle after the victory at Aughrim, and surren- \ndered on favorable conditions and with "military honors." In 1798, on the \narrival of the French under Humbert at Killala, to aid the national party, the \nmerchants enabled the garrison and yeomanry of the town to join General Lake, \n\n\n\n\nAntique Claddagh \nRing. \n\n\n\ni84 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nand they shared in the disgraceful retreat of the royalists known as the " Castle- \nbar races." \n\nOn the south side of the town on the mouth of the river is the Claddagh, a \nlarge district inhabited by fishermen to the number of five thousand. Their \nMarket-place is near one of the old gates of the town close by the remains of a \nfortified tower. The population of the Claddagh are peaceable and industrious, \nand have acquired and retained special usages and customs of their own. They \nare a race in themselves, seldom intermarrying with the towns-people. They \nare governed by their own laws administered by a king who is annually elected \non the eve of St. John, which occasion is one of great hilarity and enjoyment. \nAlthough of late years it was said that his powers have decreased and that the \nKing of the Claddagh is " no more than the Lord Mayor of Dublin," still that \npotentate is of very great importance and usefulness in his realm \xe2\x80\x94 deciding all \nlitigated cases, his people never appealing to another or higher tribunal. Inclined \nto joviality ashore, the Claddagh men in putting out to sea " never suffer any \nspecies of malt liquor or spirits to form part of their store." They are expert in \nmeeting the dangers of the deep, but will not go to sea on " a day of bad omen." \nThe king at sea acts as admiral and flies a white flag. The marriage ring is an \nheir-loom passing from mother to the daughter first married. It is massive, \nfrequently symbolically decorated with a crowned heart, supported by two \nhands. As a dowry the bride receives a boat, or share of a boat, according to \nthe means of her parents. Although almost entirely consisting of humble cot- \ntages, the Claddagh also contains some remains of quaint edifices similar to those \nin the town. \n\nOf the modern buildings in Galway not much need be said. The Railway \nHotel is noticeable ; and of the public buildings the Queen\'s College stands \npre-eminent : it is a handsome structure of the Tudor Gothic style, built of gray \nmountain limestone, which, as Sir John Forbes observes, "sets off to so much \nadvantage many of the recent public works and buildings in Ireland." It was \ndesigned by Mr. J. B. Keane the architect, and is constructed on the complete \nquadrangular plan, having four exterior and four interior fronts ; the interior \nquadrangle being 280 feet by 200. An elegant cupola flanked with towers adorns \nthe principal front, looking toward the town, at each end of which there are also \ntwo smaller cupolas. The effect of the whole is very imposing. It contains \nmany handsome apartments, and class-rooms which are commodious and well \narranged. The examination hall is 66 feet by 45. The college was opened in \n1849. The number of students attending this college has been considerably less \n\n\n\nGAL WAY. \n\n\n\ni8s \n\n\n\nthan at the colleges of Belfast or Cork, owing it is said to the scantier popula- \ntion of the district, and partly to the lesser means at the disposal of the parents. \nIn one of the official reports. President Berwick remarks, "Colleges placed in \npopulous and thriving localities are at once frequented by numerous students, \nwho live in their own homes, and who are not obliged to incur the expense of \n\n\n\n\nQueen\'s College. \n\ntraveling to, or residing in a distant neighborhood. The students of the Queen\'s \nCollege, unlike those of other institutions, must attend its lectures for at least \ntwo terms of each session \xe2\x80\x94 a period varying from five to six months. ... In \nthe great majority of cases the young men frequenting the Galway College come \nfrom a distance, the town of Galway not as yet possessing such a population as \nwould furnish a large number of students. Taking these circumstances into \naccount, I do not hesitate to say that the Queen\'s College, Galway, has fully kept \n\n\n\ni86 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\npace with her sister institutions of Belfast and Cork." The majority of the \nstudents are Roman Catholics. \n\nAt a short distance from the college there is a National (model) School for \nboys and girls. When Forbes visited it, he found of 104 boys in attendance, 11 \nwere Protestant ; and of 46 girls in attendance, 9 were Protestant. " An hour," \nhe writes, " is set apart every Friday for religious instruction, on which occasion \nthe minister of the Established Church and the Roman Catholic priest frequently \nboth attend, each supervising the instruction of the children of their respective \nflocks." He further states "the system of instruction in both these schools \nseemed excellent, and the children showed great proficiency in their respective \nstudies. All the children were tolerably neatly dressed, especially the girls, who \nwere also \xe2\x80\x94 many of them at least \xe2\x80\x94 very good-looking." \n\nThe bay of Galway is claimed to be the finest in Ireland ; and the town is \nmost advantageously situated as a station for transatlantic communication be- \ntween America and Europe. It distinguished itself on the occasion of the inquiry \ninstituted at the instance of the Treasury and the Admiralty in 1850, to ascertain \nthe harbor in Ireland best suited for a transatlantic packet station. Among \nthose who made the most powerful exertions to demonstrate the great superiority \nthat Galway possessed over every other harbor whose pretensions were then can- \nvassed was the Rev. Peter Daly, to whom Galway is greatly indebted. But the \ninquiry in regard to selecting any of the competing Irish ports was, says Marmion, \na perfect mockery, and the country was put to considerable expense, without \nits being ever intended at the time to remove the station farther from Liverpool \nthan Holyhead. The evidence, however, that has been collected is valuable, \nand has tended to dispel much of the illusion and misrepresentation that pre- \nviously existed in respect to the western coast.* Of the bridges mentioned \nas connecting the eastern and western portions of the town, the West Bridge \xe2\x80\x94 \nstill in excellent repair \xe2\x80\x94 is respectable for its antiquity, having been built in 1342, \nby one of the ever-prominent tribe of the Lynches \xe2\x80\x94 Edmond, the son of Thomas, \n" at his own expense." Looking over this venerable structure, which makes a \nsuitable foreground bridging memories of the past with the present, we see Father \nDaly\'s chapel, which, in addition to its religious character, has become an object \nof interest for the reasons just indicated. There are noble views of the bay, \nbacked by the hills of Clare on the opposite side, along the road leading west from \nGalway. In clear weather the isles of Arran are visible. The tourist should, by \n\n* See Marmion\'s Mariliiiu- Ports of Ireland, etc., p. 459. \n\n\n\nGALWAY. 187 \n\nall means, visit these islands, which are not only wonderfully picturesque, but of \nthe deepest interest from their geological features and the antiquities they con- \ntain. A few years since the Ethnological Section of the British Association, \nunder the guidance of the late Sir William Wilde, examined them, and as the \nexpedition consisted of seventy savans, including many whose learning and liter- \nary labors entitle their proceedings to special consideration, we shall condense \nthe account of the journalist of the expedition. The Arran Islands are situated \nat the entrance to Galway Bay and about thirty miles from that port. The party \nlanded at Kilronan on the main isle \xe2\x80\x94 Inishmore ; and were surprised at the clean \nand comfortable appearance of the village, far exceeding indeed the evidences of \nprosperity on the western mainland. Nor did the cabins in the remoter parts \nbear less evidence to the industry of the inhabitants, who, living principally by \nfishing, yet wring from the almost naked rocks sufficient for the necessities of the \nisland. The men, strong,,hardy islanders, with a manly, independent bearing, were \ncomfortably dressed in a species of white flannel, perfectly clean, and wearing on \ntheir feet bright blue stockings and a kind of moccasin formed of seal or cow \nskin. The women, of the same type, roughened by toil and weather, clothed in \nthe red\' petticoat and shawl, with a blue kerchief over the head, gave color and \ncharacter to the groups. \n\nBeing nine miles long by about two broad, every part of Inishmore is accessi- \nble on foot \xe2\x80\x94 albeit, the walking is of the most rugged description. The objects \nmost singular, and said to be surpassed only by the older barbaric monuments of \nGreece, are the pagan military remains. The dates assigned to these are from \n500 A.c. to 100 A.c. ; in other words, they are more than 2,000 years old. They \nconsist of four forts, two of which are circular, called Dun-Onagh and Dun- \nOghill ; the latter the most perfect extant. They are built of loose stones, \nwithout mortar, the main ramparts varying in height from 16 to 25 feet, \nand having a thickness of about 15 feet, the ascending steps and the watch- \ntowers on the summit being in some cases still discoverable ; the diameter of \nthe structure is about 100 feet, but an outer wall of some solidity incloses a \nmuch larger space. The other two forts have taken advantage of promontories, \ntwo sides of which are protected by inaccessible cliffs washed by the Atlantic, and \nhave thrown up ramparts of the like Cyclopean structure, in a semicircular form, \nto defend the approach from land. Of these, Dubh-Chathair is the oldest known, \nand Dun-Aengus the largest and most striking. Behind it the cliffs overhang- \ning the sea are 300 feet in height. The inner and massive rampart incloses a \ndepth of about 150 feet. Two walls at intervals increase the outer defenses, \n\n\n\n1 88 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nwhile beyond a chevmtx-dc-frise still remains, formed of the pointed stones so \nabundant on the spot, placed on end for some 50 yards in width, and which \nwould certainly very much check the ardor of an impetuous attack. The appear- \nance almost justifies the tradition that an army of invaders was here turned into \nstone. The whole defenses occupy about eight acres. \n\nWho built these massive works, and what may be their date, is matter of \ndebate and speculation. That they are pre-Christian and pre-historic seems all \nthat is certain. The primitive race of the Firbolgs, driven from the mainland, \nseem to have made a last stand here. The retiring wave of the early population, \nbeaten further and further westward, must in these clifTs have fought their last \nstruggle for existence before some hardier or more numerous invaders. \n\nWithin this fort the section proceeded to discuss the objects before them. \nA platform of rock occupied the center, the members bivouacked on the grass \naround, while the natives, grouped upon the crumbling rampart, which formed a \npicturesque amphitheater, listened with wonder to the story of the stones on \nwhich they sat, and of the historic interest of which they had never dreamt. The \nProvost of Trinity College occupied the chair, and the meeting was in turn ad- \ndressed by all whose learning enabled them to impart information. Dr. Wilde \ntook a prominent part in the discussion, which was admirably supported by Dr. \nPetrie, Dr. Graves, Dr. O\'Donovan, Mr. Eugene Curry, Dr. Stokes, and many \nothers. \n\nThe ecclesiastical remains are also very numerous. They date from the \nfifth to the seventh century, and it is surprising to find such a number of these \nstructures in a place where the population must have been at all times very \nlimited. \n\nA different kind of ruin also exists in some of the castles built by Cromwell, \nthe chief interest of which in this spot is drawn from their having been con- \nstructed out of the more ancient ruins, and thus a round tower destroyed, and \nmuch that should have been preserved. In the middle island, Inishmaan, there \nare two forts, one circular, the other oval, of considerable size, and similar in \nstructure to those on the main island. The cliffs on the Arran Islands also \nafford ample enjoyment to those who prefer the picturesque and beautiful to \nthe learned and curious ; while the extraordinary formation of the rocks, spread \nout in vast sheets of bare and rifled limestone, like stone glaciers, excites the \nwonder of the geologist. \n\nAccording to tradition, St. Ibar visited Inishmore before the time of St. \nPatrick. St. Enda obtained a grant of the island and founded his monastic \n\n\n\n\nVlh-VVs Al OALWAY AN J GORT. \n\n\n\n190 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nestablishment on it a.d. 580. Not far from its site, says Ferguson, in TIic Irish \nbefoi-e the Conquest, "stands to-day the smallest church in Ireland, that of St. \nBenignus. Among the ruins of the seven churches in the north part of Arran, \nat Kilbrecan, still exists the tomb of their founder St. Brecan. On a spherical \nblack stone found in his grave, we read the inscription in Irish, \' Pray for Brecan \nthe pilgrim.\' Another tomb at this place is inscribed to the memor)^ of the \n\' Seven Romans,\' strangers from distant lands, seeking in this Irish Thebaid \nopportunity for indulgence in the contemplative life." \n\nIn Petrie\'s account of his researches in Arran, many artistic sketches of the \ninhabitants may be found. In his sympathetic notice of Father Francis O\'Fla- \nherty \xe2\x80\x94 a devoted priest, educated in Spain, and at the time for nearly half a cen- \ntury the spiritual director of the humble people in this remote region \xe2\x80\x94 he pre- \nsents a Sunday scene of great beauty which may happily complete our glimpse of \nthe western isles. It was a calm bright day \xe2\x80\x94 scarce a cloud was to be seen over \nthe tranquil dark blue sea : in the sunshine the gray cliffs lost their rugged char- \nacter. The religious ceremonies were over, but the people remained dispersed \namong the rocks in a variety of picturesque groups, bright as nature in costumes \nand appearance. " In one place a number of men in youthful prime were drawn \ntogether in sober converse ; in another, the old people sat silent and contempla- \ntive. Here, too, might be seen groups of young and unmarried women, with \ntheir hair tied up into graceful ringlets, and their cloaks, carelessly disposed into \npicturesque draperies, while their attitudes, some lying in each other\'s laps, and \nsome with their arms about each other\'s necks or waists, bespoke the presence of \nyouthful affection and innocent simplicity. \n\n" This picture was equally striking and characteristic ; for the coloring of the \ndresses of the peasantry was such as the painters of the Roman School have \nalways loved. Positive, rich and varied, but not gay or gaudy. Thus the deep \nred and blue tints of the female costumes were relieved by the azure dresses of \nthe men ; and these strong colors, contrasted by the gray tones of the surround- \ning rocks, received an additional effect of richness and splendor. Had the scen- \nery of this picture been that of a river bank in a sylvan valley, instead of a wild \nrocky shore in the Atlantic, the subject would have been truly Arcadian ; as it \nwas, however, it might be considered more novel, and scarcely less striking or \ndelightful." \n\nFrom Inishmore (or Arranmore as it is also called) on a clear day, the natives \nfancy they can see far in the west the famous Hy-Brasail, or enchanted island, \nrepresented as a paradise. The belief in it is not confined to Arran. The \n\n\n\nGALJVAY. \n\n\n\n191 \n\n\n\ndwellers on the western coast line of Ireland from Malin Head to Cape Clear, \nbelieve in the existence of an extensive and beautiful island in the western \n\n\n\n" On the ocean that hollows the rocks where ye dwell, \nThe shadowy land has appeared, as they tell : \nMen thought it a region of sunshine and rest. \nAnd they called it Hy-Brasail, the isle of the blest ; \nFrom year unto year, on the ocean\'s blue rim, \nThe beautiful specter showed lovely and dim ; \nThe golden clouds curtained the deep where it lay. \nAnd it looked like an Eden away, far away.\'\' \n\nGerald Griffin \xe2\x80\x94 Hy-Brasail. \n\nIt was in search of this region of delight and fertility that St. Brendan made \nhis celebrated voyage. \n\nAn examination of the Arran Islands, with the view of the mainland scenery \nfrom the sea \xe2\x80\x94 especially if a cruise toward Roundstone is taken, will greatly \nadd to the \nexpectations \nexcited by \nthe hope or \npromise of a \ngrand excur- \nsion in the \nwilds of \nConnemara, \nwhich of \ncourse must \nbe in the \n\n\n\nmind\'s eye of any sensible tourist to the west \nof Ireland. \n\nIn planning an expedition to Connemara and the \nwestern Highlands the tourist frequently takes his de- \nparture from Galway up the river to Lough Corrib, Lncgh inagh. \nover the lake to Cong, and thence westward to Maam ; but as Cong is in \nMayo, and worth more than a casual notice, and as our purpose at present is to \nstay within the County of Galway, and view the glories of Connemara and \nJoyce\'s Country \xe2\x80\x94 leaving the antiquities of Cong and the Highlands of Mayo \nfor future enjoyment \xe2\x80\x94 we will cross the Gallive River and take the route, in a \n\n\n\n\n192 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nnorthwesterly direction, to Oughterard. Passing the jalantations of the demesne \nof Woodstock and the small lough of Ballycuirke, we reach MoycuUen, where \nbranch roads to left and right respectively lead to Galway Bay and Lough Cor- \nrib. Two miles farther Ross Lake is passed on the right, and the little lake \nNaneevin, on the left ; and three miles beyond, on an inlet of Lough Corrib, are \nthe ruins of Aughnanure Castle, the fortress of the " ferocious O\'Flaherties," the \ndread of the early tribes of Galway. Although but a ruin, it will sufficiently con- \nvey to the curious a suggestive impression of the habits and domestic usages of \nan Irish chief of superior rank. The house, a strong and lofty tower, stands in \n\n\n\n\n\n^r- \xe2\x96\xa0FT^^aCMfe^^-S:-\' \n\n\n\nTwelve Pin Mountains and Lake of Kylemore. \n\nan ample court-yard surrounded by outworks \xe2\x80\x94 accessible only by a drawbridge \nat the gateway tower. The river, Avhich communicates with the lake, washes the \nwalls and forms a safe harbor within them. The ample windows of a spacious \nbanqueting-hall display elegance of design and execution. Cellars, bake-houses, \nand quarters for his followers are visible ; and an ancient manuscript in Trinity \nCollege enumerates the more important of the retinue attending on the chief \xe2\x80\x94 \nembracing \xe2\x80\x94 his physician, chief of horse, standard-bearer, his brehons, or judges, \nhis olave in genealogy and poetry, his keeper of the black bell of St. Patrick, \nmaster of the revels, keeper of his bees, collector of revenue, and other attend- \nants " on ordinary sittings." A few years ago a solitary yew stood, perhajos \n\n\n\nGALWAY. \n\n\n\n193 \n\n\n\n\nOv\xc2\xa3r Lough Inagh. \n\nit yet stands, beside the ruins of the castle, growing out of a ledge of solid \nlimestone. Doctor Petrie was of opinion that it was more than a thousand \nyears old when he saw it. It is, says a writer twenty years ago, an "interesting \n13 \n\n\n\n194 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nrelic of a remote era, and must have supplied the Irish archers with tough bows \nto slay the wolf and red deer long before the foot of the Anglo-Norman invader \nhad touched the shores of Ireland." Oughterard is next reached. What Inglis \ncalls " one of the most limpid streams in the world," dances through it. Just \nabove the village, there is a succession of rapids \xe2\x80\x94 almost cascades \xe2\x80\x94 over the \nshelving limestone which forms the river bed ; and on a beautiful green bank at \nthe foot of them is the cottage known as Martin\'s Gate-house. It was not \ninaptly called, for the road from this spot passes through what formed the great \nMartin estate to the residence of the proprietor at Ballinahinch some thirty miles \ndistant. \n\nThis region, which within the memory of man was almost a terra incognita, \nor associated only in the mind with all that was barren and uncultivated, is one \nof the most attractive in Ireland ; possessing features which in the opinion of \nsome render its scenery superior to that of Killarhey. It is ribbed by remark- \nable mountains and dotted by numberless lakes ; and receives its name, not \nfrom its internal characteristics, but from its external coast formation on the \nAtlantic \xe2\x80\x94 which is indented by many bays and estuaries far into the land ; \nbringing splendid sea and coast ranges in view from the hilltops, at the same \ntime that hundreds of lakes are also visible. It is therefore poetically called \nCtiann-na-marra \xe2\x80\x94 the bays of the sea ; and all therein, estuaries and lakes, moors \nand the mountains, are the delight of the knight of the rod and the gun. \n\nFrom Oughterard \xe2\x80\x94 a prettily situated and neatly sylvan village \xe2\x80\x94 the road \nskirts loughs Bofin and Arderry to Butler\'s Lodge, where the road diverges to \nMaam, less than five miles distant \xe2\x80\x94 a grand center from which " to do " the \nmountains, if you do not mean to go round the Twelve Pins by Clifden. Con- \ntinuing the route chosen, we have a view of Lough Shindella with its wooded \nislands ; pay a passing courtesy to the Half-Way House, a mountain hotel close \nto Lough Oorid, and Mount Oorid (1,178 feet high), and after some seven miles \nof mountain and lake scenery reach The Recess, on the shores of Glendalough. \nHere we well may pause, for days if we will, to contemplate the glorious scenes \nsurrounding us on all sides. Some of the grandest scenery to be found in all the \nwestern Highlands here inspire our pedestrian energy and reward our love for \nthe beauties of nature. Loughs Inagh, three miles long, Derryclare and Ballina- \nhinch, each two and a half miles, and Glendalough, a mile and a half, are all \ngrouped together, with the Twelve Pins of Bennabola, which present a prominent \nand unvarying background as the lakes are separately viewed. Indeed the com- \nbinations are endless in which these romantic lakes appear, with their mountain- \n\n\n\nGAL WAY. 195 \n\nous background, and the torrents of the hillsides, precipitately tracing their \nshining courses from the surrounding summits to the bosom of the waters. The \nvariety and beauty \xe2\x80\x94 to use the trite but truthful phrase of the guide-book \xe2\x80\x94 \n" can only be realized when actually seen." To the north of The Recess is the \nvalley of Lough Inagh, with the hill of Lisoughter (1,314 feet) to the right, and \nDerryclare, one of the Pins (2,220 feet), on the left. The views from the summits \nof Lisoughter, Derryclare, or Coolnacartan hill are very fine. The ascent of the \nfirst named is highly recommended on account of the extensive views to be \nobtained from its summit, embracing all the characteristics of the Connemara \nscenery. The author of A Run throtigh the West of Ireland, taking one of his \npoints of departure from the Recess Hotel \xe2\x80\x94 charmingly situated under the lofty \nDerryclare, with a small grass lawn in front, shrubs dotting the verdant turf, \nand forming a leafy screen between it and the road, which runs between the lawn \nand the lake \xe2\x80\x94 ascended Derryclare, having as guide a fine intelligent little girl, \nand her brother, "a hardy little mountaineer of six years old." He describes the \ndeveloping effect as he clomb the mountain as increasing in beauty and extent. \nBeneath, basking in the gleam of the setting sun, lay the lakes of Derryclare and \nGlendalough. From the opposite side of the glen rose Lisoughter ; beyond, the \nhigh peak of Atherry ; with the conical head of Cashel in the distance. Sitting \namid the blossoming heather and thoroughly enjoying the lovely scene, as well as \nrecalling the cleanly comfort of the inn below, he felt the full force of Harriet \nMartineau\'s estimate of the wonderful region, and its accommodations. Miss \nMartineau had made the trip prejudiced against Connemara as a barbarous dis- \ntrict without accommodations \xe2\x80\x94 or such only as were uncomfortable and unclean. \nHer remarks therefore " toned home," as Justinus Kerner would say, to the \nexperience and appreciation of our friend : \n\n" There are few things in the world," says Miss Martineau, "more delightful \nthan a drive at sunset in a bright autumn evening among the mountains and \nlakes of Connemara. A friend of ours describes the air of his favorite place by \nsaying it is like breathing champagne. It has the best qualities of the sea and \nland breeze at once. \xe2\x80\xa2 We are here at the end of the earth, to all appearance, for \nthe land Is as a fringe, and the water running in everywhere between its streaks. \nThere are salt waters and fresh ; bays, lakes, rivers, dashing torrents, mirror-like \npools, a salmon-leap here, an inlet for shell-fish there, and Ballinahinch Lough, \nwith its little Island, where \' Dick Martin,\' immortalized in the song, \' If I had a \ndonkey what wouldn\'t go,\' used to imprison people who were guilty of cruelty to \nanimals. \n\n\n\n196 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n" Standing in grandeur, towering above the lake, are the Bennabola or \nTwelve Pins, with the sun playing around their solemn heads ; while the purple \nheather is here and there enlivened by the red cloak of the peasant. What trip \ncould be more attractive to the lover of scenery ? What rest or change more \ncomplete to the overworked and the weary of our great city ? Moreover, just \nnow, when Ireland is obtaining so much consideration, what more apropos than \nan excursion to Connemara ? The writer of these lines was both pleased and \nsurprised to find so much comfort and cleanliness where she had been led to ex- \npect the reverse. She had been warned by a timorous friend not to venture into \nsuch wild and uncouth regions, where dirt was the principal feature of the inns \nand places of resort; but not deterred by the terrifying and repulsive picture \nwhich was drawn, she still determined to go. Not having any fancy for swallow- \ning before the proper time the peck of dirt which we are told we must all con- \nsume during our lives, she carried every convenience, such as sheets, etc., in her \ncarpet-bag, and on arriving at any place of rest she immediately turned down the \nbeds, pried into the corners of the rooms, and, in fact, acted the part of a sani- \ntary commissioner. Be it told, however, to the justification of beautiful Conne- \nmara, that not once did she disturb her sheets and et ceteras from their repose at \nthe bottom of her carpet-bag. \n\n" And how the party were repaid for their venture into those wild places, by \nthe kindness and welcome they received everywhere ! The people seemed so \npleased to see them ! I must recount as a proof of this an episode during our \ntrip. At a farm-house where we slept for a couple of nights, at the foot of Cool- \nnacartan, one of the very highest of the mountains, we had to stay in-doors the \nwhole of one\' day on account of the rain, and the farmer\'s wife sent twelve miles \nfor a loaf of baker\'s bread, thinking, but erroneously, that we should prefer it \nto her griddle-cake, which latter we asked to have, and found delicious with the \nadjunct of the famed Connemara butter. For it is worth going there if only to \ntaste the butter, even if you come away without adding a white trout to your \nmeal. The white trout ! what praises can convey a notion of their amiability ? \nThey let you catch them, grill them, and eat them ! \n\n" On the day after the rain we made an excursion to Lough Derryclare and to \nLough Inagh, where we fished to our hearts\' content, and where we caught forty \nwhite trout, none under six pounds,\' and also sazu several leap and play in the \nsunlight. A glorious souvenir. The following anecdote will show the kindness \nof the people. Just before we started for the boat, I overheard the farmer and \nour guide deploring the state of the road. \' What will the poor lady do when \n\n\n\n\n\n\nVIEW FROM COOLNACARTAN HILL.- \n\n\n\n198 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nshe comes to the bog? the creature will be up to her knees in the wet!\' You \nmay imagine my dismay, and how zealously I obeyed the farmer when he begged \nme \' to follow him, and that he would pick out the best way for me.\' But judge \nof my surprise, indeed I might say emotion, when we came to the boggy part \njust above the lake, to see that the kind Mr. Joyce had sent his man on before \nus, who was actually laying down sods of turf for me to pass over to the boat ! I \nturned in amazement at such unostentatious thoughtful kindness, saying, \' Oh ! \nhow very kind of you, Mr. Joyce.\' \' Sure, ma\'am, we ought to make much of you, \nwe see you so seldom,\' was his answer. I do not think that Queen Elizabeth \nfelt more gratified in walking over Raleigh\'s mantle." \n\nAs the ascent to the Derryclare summit discloses loughs Derryclare and Glen- \ndalough, the ascent of Lisoughter discloses to view beneath you Lough Derry- \nclare, and what is deemed one of the most beautiful of the lakes \xe2\x80\x94 the lovely and \nlonely Inagh. Standing on this summit, the Maam Turk range of mountains towers \nbehind, and before us \xe2\x80\x94 with the lakes just mentioned in the intermediate vale \xe2\x80\x94 \nthe rugged pinnacles of Bennabola stand out against the sky. As Connemara \nbecomes more known, the valley of Inagh \xe2\x80\x94 or Glen Inagh as it is perhaps less \ncorrectly called \xe2\x80\x94 is becoming one of the great places of attraction to tourists : and \nan account of a pedestrian trip to it across the mountains, recently made by an \nenthusiastic lover of the picturesque, Avill give a suggestive idea of the general \nnature of the mountains and glens of the locality. Leaving the high road to \nClifden \xe2\x80\x94 the one we are pursuing \xe2\x80\x94 he struck out toward the marble quarries of \nBar-an-oran. Having told the quarrymen, he writes \xe2\x80\x94 for we prefer to let him \ntell his own experiences \xe2\x80\x94 " that I was determined to climb the heights of Benna- \nbola, and if possible make my way to Glen Inagh, they, in vain, endeavored to \ndissuade me from the attempt. The clouds still clung to the sides of the moun- \ntains, and if I was caught by a fog among the Twelve Pins, I had a poor chance \nof ever making my way back, besides running the risk of being clifted \xe2\x80\x94 but I, \nheedless of the warning, merely inquired which of the maams (or mountain \npasses) before me led to Glen Inagh, and without waiting to assure myself which \nwas pointed out in reply, bounded over the pathless bog, from one tussock to \nanother, and soon gained the acclivity of the Twelve Pins. As I ascended the \nside of the mountain the solitude was first pleasing, then romantic, then solemn. \nThe clouds still enveloped the peaks above ; there was not a breath of wind to \ndisturb their fleecy masses ; there was no track left by any living thing upon the \nvast moorland, and I soon discovered that I had quite forgotten the way that \nwas pointed out to me as leading to Glen Inagh. Three or four of the mountain \n\n\n\nGALWAY. \xe2\x96\xa0 199 \n\npasses presented themselves to me, but they had changed their relative positions, \nand for the life of me, I could not say which of them I was to take. \n\n" Following in my ascent the dry bed of a torrent which presented a succes- \nsion of wild and picturesque spots (the banks being sometimes stee^D, and the rich \nherbage on the alluvial soil collected at other points, contrasting with the bar- \nrenness of the surrounding wilderness), I at length approached one of the maams, \nbut whether the one indicated by the quarrymen or not, remained to be seen. I \npromised myself a glorious view of Glen Inagh and its lake of wooded islands, \nso much praised by Inglis and by every one who had penetrated to its recess. \nThe landscape that would be thus mapped out below me, and seen from the \nclouds through the hazy atmosphere, must have an enchanting effect. Another \neffort, and I should be rewarded for all my toil. \n\n" The effort was made and the niaam was gained, but the prospect was very \ndifferent from what I had anticipated. I found myself in a horrible stony desert. It \nwas a spot bared and scarred by rain and tempest since the creation ; the inhospit- \nable rocks were covered with dark gelatinous lichens, or were bleached and riven \nby the blasts of an everlasting winter. The air was moist and chilly, and there was \nno longer the dead calm which I had felt on the side of the mountain, but a smart \nbreeze from the southwest wafted the clouds quickly past, and I was every moment \nenveloped in their masses, and almost suffocated by their sulphurous smell. H igher \nstill rose the rocky peaks of the mountain, but fatigue as well as the chiUing influ- \nence of that gloomy solitude deprived me of any wish to climb higher for that time. \n\n" On the other hand, looking back from the maam, which I had entered, the \nview was magnificent. As each cloud passed away, the vast plain of Connemara, \nintersected by innumerable loughs and streams, and bounded in the distance by \nthe ocean, was seen spread out below. The countless islands, the deeply-indented \ncoast, the solitary hill of Doon, toward Slyne Head in the west, and that of \nUrrisbeg in the south, all claimed attention ; but after enjoying the prospect for \nawhile, I recollected that I had yet to obtain the promised view of Glen Inagh, \nif not to make good my way to that far-famed valley. I therefore selected \nanother of the openings among the Peaks of the Twelve-Pins which surrounded \nme, and felt assured it would answer the desired purpose. \n\n"At length, after enormous fatigue, I reached a point which revealed a picture \nthat at once obliterated every sense of weariness and danger. The valley of \nGlen Inagh lay at my feet, deep embosomed among mountains, the dark and \nbarren sides ot which were furrowed with ravines and beds of torrents ; while \nbelow were some few patches of green ; and, at the base of the mountain to the \n\n\n\n200 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nright, lay the silvery lake, with two small islets covered with wood. How tran- \nquilly its waters slept ! How beautiful were those two tufts of foliage in the \nmidst of so much barrenness ! How lovely and grand was the scene ! How soft \nthe tint spread over the valley by the veil of azure gauze which seemed to hang \nbetween ! How much loveliness surrounded by such sublimity ! Lough Inagh, \nI earned this first glimpse of thy beauty well, but I felt myself repaid. \n\n" Looking from the brow of Ben-scalpa-diva (the mountain of black chasms), \nwhere I then stood, it was some time before I could discover a cabin in the glen \nbelow. I discovered one, however, and toward it the cravings of hunger prompted \nme to direct my course. The view around me, as seen from the cabin door, was \nmajestic in the extreme. On the right, rose the vast and gloomy masses of the \nTwelve Pins, from which I had just escaped \xe2\x80\x94 Ben-scalpa-diva, already mentioned, \nand Ben-cullagh, and Ben-bawn, and Ben-cor \xe2\x80\x94 and among their dark recesses \nwere Glen-cuileann, or the ravine of the holly tree, and that of Soalp-an-columb, \nor the pigeons\' cavern, where outlaws often found a safe retreat in bygone times. \nOn the opposite side of the valley Ben-y-breccan reared its gigantic head above \na stratum of white cloud, like a rocky island belonging to some other world ; and \nextending from it easterly were the high ridges of Maam Turk and Maam Ean, \nwith their intervening summits, and beyond these Ben-an-cnoe \xe2\x80\x94 all composing \nthe lofty chain of mountains which separates Connemara from Joyce Country. \nIn front, the valley was closed by the bold outline of Cnoc-mor-y-cartan, the \nbig hill by the forge, from \\cnoc, hill, mor, big, and cearda, a forge, also called \nCoolnacartan,] * whose dark sides were reflected in the waters of Lough Inagh, \nand its sister lake of Derryclare ; and behind me, to the west, a large mass of \nthe Bennabola group shut out the sun\'s rays long before the orb of day sunk \ninto the Atlantic." \n\n* Cnoc and Ben. These words, or their significations, are sometimes confounded. Cnoc signifies a hill ; its most \ncommon anglicized form is Knock, in which the /; is usually silent ; but in the original, tlie first c, which the k represents, was \nsounded cnoc, pronounced Kiinnuck, the first u very short. It forms the prefix or suffix of many names of places in Ireland, \nas Castle knock, Castle hill, near Dublin ; Knockshegowna, the hill of the fairy Oonagh in Lower Ormond, the fabled \nresidence of Una, the fairy-queen of Spenser ; Knock -layd {cnoc-leithia), the hill of breadth \xe2\x80\x94 /. e., the broad hill in An- \ntrim (pp. 134\xe2\x80\x94137), where Ossian is buried (see sketch on p. 161). Beann (ban), genitive and plural lieanna, signifies \na horn, a gable, a peak or pointed hill, often applied to any steep hill; cognate with the Latin ^/\xc2\xab\xc2\xaba. It is commonly \nanglicized ben or bin ; and although extensively used in Irish names of places, is not applied to great mountains so much \nas it is in Scotland, as Ben Lomond, Ben Nevis, etc. The Twelve Pins derive their name from the same word ; Pitts \nbeing a modification oi Bens. "They are commonly called \' The Twelve Pins of Bunnabeola,\' in which the word beann \noccurs twice ; for Bunnabeola is Beanna-Beola, the peaks of Beola. This Beola, who was probably an old Firbolg \nchieftain, is still vividly remembered in tradition ; and a remarkable person he must have been, for the place of his in- \nterment is also commemorated, namely Toombeola, Beola\'s tumulus, which is a townland south of the Twelve Pins." \nSee Joyce\'s Origin and History of Irish Names of Places. \n\n\n\nGAL WAY. \n\n\n\n\n\nThe beautiful Glen Inagh, \nbetween the Twelve Pins \nand Maam Turk, extends \nfrom Glendalough to Toor- \neenacoona Bridge, a distance \nof seven miles \xe2\x80\x94 of rare \nscenic variety ; the constant \nchanges of light and shade, \nmist and cloud, on the \nBennabola Mountains pro- \nducing a striking \xe2\x80\x94 and it \nmight be said, kaleidoscopic \nseries of effects. There is \n\n\n\n^3s^ \n\n\n\n\nLough De?ryclare and Maam Tm k Mountain. \n\n\n\na new road from the Recess through Glen Inagh which reaches Kylemore Lake \n\xe2\x80\x94 -ten miles distant. At the entrance of the vale of Inagh is the remarkable hill \nof Coolnacartan. A leading writer strongly advocates the view from this hill as \nmagnificent, presenting the "most striking features of the Connemara Country." \n\n\n\n202 PICTC\'RItSQUJi: IRELAND. \n\nAll the tourists who Ikwo written on the subject rival each other in the energy \nwith which they extol special views^which speaks well for the general resources \nof the region. From Coolnacartan the view is all that is claimed for it. Glens \nand mountains extend on every side as far as the eye can reach ; and wrapped \nin their solitudes may be seen the beautilul links of lakes which extend from \nOughterard to Ballinahinch. Amongst the loveliest of these sheets of water \nis Garromin, or Glendalough, south of the Recess. Here it was that the late \nDean Malion, with a tlelightful appreciation of the united pleasures of beauty \nand solitude, built his romantic retreat. It is this poetically selected spot \nand edifice which, on its transformation into a comfortable mountain inn, \nhas been so long a favorite with travelers, as well for the fishing facilities of \nthe neighborhood as for the unrivaled mountain and lake scenery it com- \nmands. Thirty-five years ago Thackeray went over this road and through \nthe heart of Connemara, on a visit to Mr. Martin, then representing the county \nin Parliament, and he was not the least enthusiastic of its admirers. " The Clif- \nden car," he wrote, in The Irish Sketch Book, "which carries the Dublin letters \ninto the heart of Connemara, conducts the passenger over one of the most wild \nand beautiful districts that it is ever the fortune of a traveler to examine ; and I \ncould not help thinking, as we passed through it, at how much pains and expense \nhonest English cockneys are, to go and look after natural beauties far inferior, \nin countries which, though more distant, are not a whit more strange than this \none. No doubt, ere long, when people know how easy the task is, the rush of \nLondon tourism will come this way ; and I shall be very happy if these pages \nshall be able to awaken in one bosom, beating in Tooley Street or the Temple, \nthe desire to travel toward Ireland." On the first part of the journey from Gal- \nway town in the more thickly populated districts, he noticed that as they passed \nthe residences of gentlemen, the mail carman, with a warning cry, Hung a bag of \nletters. " I saw," said he, " a little party looking at one which lay there in the \nroad, crying Come, take me ! but nobody cares to steal a bag of letters in this \ncountry, I suppose, and the carman drove on without any alarm." The troops \nof red-petticoated peasantry, and the white chapels standing out against the \ngreen bare surroundings on the low country ; "the court-yards blackened with a \nswarm of cloaks," and in which the service, he said, " seemed to continue on the \npart of the people all day" on Sunday, caught his observant eye and enlisted the \nduty of his suggestive pen. Getting into " the famous district of Connemara, so \ncelebrated in Irish stories, so mj\'sterious to the London tourist," he consulted his \nguide-book ; but, with the natural impatience of an artistic feeling in presence of \n\n\n\nGALWAY. \n\n\n\n203 \n\n\n\nscenes which defy mere verbal expression in the dry formula of a guide-maker, \nsays : " But the best guide-book that ever was written cannot set the view before \nthe mind\'s eye of the reader ; and I won\'t attempt to pile up big words in place of \nthese wild mountains, over which the clouds as they passed, or the sunshine as it \nwent and came, cast every variety of tint, light, and shadow ; nor can it be expected \nthat long, level sentences, however smooth and shining, can be made to pass as \nrepresentatives of those calm lakes by which we took our way. All one can do \nis to lay down the pen and ruminate, and cry \' Beautiful ! \' once more ; and to the \nreader say, \' Come and see.\' Wild and wide as the prospect around us is, it has \nsomehow a kindly, friendly look, differing in this from the fierce loneliness of \n\n\n\n\nsome similar scenes in Wales that I have viewed." This latter observation at once \nrecalls a somewhat similar remark of Charlotte Elizabeth in her Letters from \nIreland, which not only illustrates the expressed feeling of Thackeray, but ex- \nplains it in a tender, and even dramatic way. "As in the music of the Irish, and \nin their national character, so is it in the natural scenery of their country. Some \nunexpected tract of the softest beauty continually steals upon you in the midst of \nwhat is dark, stern, and wild ; something of the latter breaks in, where seemingly \nit has no business, just to remind you that what you are contemplating is Irish." \nThe pedestrian excursion up Glen Inagh may be advantageously continued \nnorthward, and the ascent made of Letterbrecan, from which, in the words of one \nwho achieved the summit, " one of the finest views in Connemara is to be ob- \ntained:" a distinction which is enthusiastically claimed for several of the sum- \nmits already alluded to by earnest and discriminating tourists ; but as Thackeray \nsaid of the beauties of Killarney \xe2\x80\x94 the last seen, whichever it was, appeared to be \nthe most beautiful. If the power of discrimination comparatively fails in 4he \nmidst of so much that appeals to the love of the sublime and beautiful in natural \nscenery, the reasons may at least be partially indicated for the preferences of one \n\n\n\n204 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nmountain prospect over another. Thus the advocate for Letterbrecan will tell \nyou that from its summit are visible Lough Inagh, Kj\'lemore Lough, Lough \nFee, the greater and lesser Killery, and several other and smaller loughs and \npools. Looking in a southerly direction, Maam Mountains are on the left, the \nubiquitous Bennabola on the right, and between them, in the far distance be- \nyond Kilkieran Bay, the ocean that surges round the Bannocks and the Arran \nIslands. The descent of Letterbrecan can be made so as to reach the Killeries. \n\nReturning to Recess, an excursion may be made south of it to Cashel Hill, \n1,027 feet high, some five miles distant: and the ascent will undoubtedly more \nthan repay any delay caused in the projected excursion to Clifden. The fact is, \nas the Halls said years ago, one cannot hasten in this region, for it is full of \ninterest, and " wonders that will keep the mind and eye gratified and excited, \nduring a tour that certainly cannot find its parallel in the United Kingdom ; not \nalone in its amount of natural beauties, or in the scenery that for wild grandeur \nsurpasses the imagination ; the country is almost entirely one vast collection of \nraw material, languishing for the aid of man to develop its wealth, and render it \navailable for the services of human kind." Many improvements have taken place \nsince this was written, but nothing commensurate to the resources which suggest \nthem. \n\nAnd here we must say that Mr. Fraser, whose continually enlarged Handbook \nis the work of a lifetime, and whose observations on every line of travel are not \nthe results of a search of the picturesque alone \xe2\x80\x94 to which the attention of the \nartistic tourist is naturally confined \xe2\x80\x94 takes issue with the remarks of foreign \nwriters on the advantages of Connemara as a field for the profitable investment \nof capital. He deems them superficial, and, doubtless, a refiection on the enter- \nprise or capability of the natives. " Its spreading plains, smiling valleys, lonely \nvales, sheltered glens, sunny slopes, charming hills, and majestic mountains, have \nall been lauded, not only for their extrinsic beauty, but for their intrinsic worth \nin an agricultural point of view. They have been held up as tracts teeming with \nfertility ; the plains, valleys, and vales, like the virgin soils of the American Con- \ntinent, only requiring the husbandman to plow the surface, sow the seed, and \ningather the harvest ; and the more elevated lands demanding only the presence \nof the herdsmen to watch the flocks and tend the cattle \' on a thousand hills.\' \nThese writers are evidently not aware," says Mr. Fraser, " that a large propor- \ntion of the surface of what appeared to them, from the road, in their hurried \nmidsummer or autumnal tours, so capable of improvement, is covered with such \na superincumbent mass of sheer peat, as to render it, in its present state, wholly \n\n\n\n2o6 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nunfit for the growth of nutritious herbage ; \xe2\x80\x94 that against the reclamation of the \ngreater part of the higher lands, even for depasturing the more hardy breeds of \ncattle and sheep, \'all nature cries aloud,\' and that before even the lower tracts \ncould be rendered productive, the fee-simple of good land must be expended." \nThe writer admits, however, that " there are thousands of acres remuneratively \nreclaimable in the vast tracts which are spread around, as well as along the \nshores of the deeply penetrating sea-bays, but these are seldom visited except by \nthe agricultural tourist." \n\nSpeaking of the beauty of the lakes passed on the road from Oughterard to \nRecess, he further admits that " the susceptibility of their bleak and boggy shores \nof ornamental improvement," in connection with the character of the scenery \naround, " will strike the lover of nature\'s beauties ; while the agriculturist will \ndiscover many tracts of remuneratively improvable ground, which lie hid from \nthe unpracticed eye." \n\nBut to resume the picturesque from this not altogether needless digression \non the practical : \xe2\x80\x94 the ascent of Cashel Hill, on which the assistance of a guide \nwill be found useful in consequence of the boggy nature of a portion of the route, \npresents, in addition to magnificent views of mountains, glens, rivers, and loughs, \nembracing nearly all of the southern part of Connemara, fine prospects of the \ncoast line and sea at Bertraghboy Bay. \n\nThe Twelve Pins \xe2\x80\x94 though not as lofty as the Reeks or Mangerton in Kerry, \nLugnaquilla in Wicklow, Kippure on the borders of Dublin, or other mountains \nwe have noticed \xe2\x80\x94 in their compact association and form are certainly the most \nremarkable and beautiful group in Ireland. They form the glory of Connemara. \nLying compactly together, their bases occupy an area of forty-two square miles, \nwhile their cones vary in height from 1,700 to nearly 2,400 feet. One-third of the \ncircumference of the base is washed by the waters of Loughs Derryclare, Inagh, \nBallinahinch, and Kylemore, into which numberless rivulets flow, having enlivened \nand made beautiful thousands of ravines on their course downward. Forbes \nthought nothing could exceed the picturesque beauty of these mountains, vary- \ning in their relative positions to one another at every half mile of the road, yet \nnever losing the peculiar charm which rivets the eye upon them. The bare \npeaks of quartz, now shining in the sunlight with the aerial brilliancy character- \nistic of their formation, and now standing sharply in shadow against the sky, \nform a strange and splendid coterie of cloud-pointing cones \xe2\x80\x94 "a stupendous \ngroup of Titans." At suitable distance these conical summits are seen under \nmany varieties of form, and in the sketches of the beautiful lakes in the region \n\n\n\nGAL WA Y. \n\n\n\n207 \n\n\n\nthey are ever jDresent but never the same. At some points, as on the road from \nKylemore to the Killery, they seem marshaled out in parallel array ; at other \npoints they appear grouped and isolated in the most pleasing and fantastic forms \n\xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\x94 here wreathed in mist, there partially displayed \xe2\x80\x94 sometimes illumined by the \nrays of the slanting sun, at other times invested in the most somber hues ; in \nshort, ever changing in appearance with every varying modification of light and \n\n\n\n\nGlen \n\n\n\nConnemara. \n\n\n\nshade, of air and sky, of proximity and distance. Although the range shows \nmany more than twelve peaks it is easy to distinguish the twelve summits of su- \nperior altitude and form which confer its title. Roderick O\' Flaherty, the author \nof Ogygia, who wrote two centuries ago, in \\{\\s Account of H-Iar Connatight, says : \n" These mountains are called by mariners the Twelve Stakes, being the first land \nthey discern as they come from the main. Bendowglass is the highest, two miles \n\n\n\n2o8 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nhigh, and hath standing water on the top, wherein they say if any washeth his \nhead he becomes hoarse," which is deemed rather a natural consequence of a severe \ncold in the head. The name of Bennabola, the peaks of Bola, is derived from \nBeola, who is variously referred to as a Firbolg chief, a giant, and a saint. The \nprincipal summits are those of Bencor, 2,336 feet in height ; Benbaun, 2,305 ; Ben- \ncullaghduff, 2,290; Derryclare, 2,220; Bengower, 2,184 ; Benlettery, 1,904. While \nthe summits are bare, occasional patches of cultivated land streak the tall brown \nsides, which are otherwise and brilliantly diversified by the tints of innumerable \nvarieties of heaths and lichens. What the arbutus is to Killarney, the heath is to \nConnemara, and in the absence of any depth or breadth of foliage, the eye rests \nmost naturally on a substitute so pleasing \xe2\x80\x94 for its streaks are of pale pink, rich \nbrown, or glowing purple, mixed with the tender green of mountain grasses, and oc- \ncasionally alternating with the black stripes of up-lying bogs, giving a combination \nof colors that, seen under the clarifying influence of western skies, is almost magi- \ncal. Connemara is remarkable for the variety of flowers and rare plants which \ngrow wild upon its mountains, and Mr. Inglis and other travelers give special \nlists of them.* The glens and ravines through the Twelve Pins are innumera- \nble, so to speak, but the solid ranks of the " Titans" are broken by four principal \nglens \xe2\x80\x94 each having its torrent, and three of them reposeful lakes. Glen Hogan, \nwith the lower lake of Ballinahinch, looks southward on Roundstone and Ber- \ntraghboy Bay; Glen I nagh, cradling its black waters under the tremendous preci- \npice of Maam, \xe2\x80\x94 down which the stream that feeds Lough Inagh falls twelve \nhundred feet over a naked perpendicular precipice, and opens the gorge of its \ngrand prison upon the east : Kylemore yawns westward and northward on Ren- \nvyle ; and on the west and south the ravine whose torrent falls in a series of cas- \ncades by Clifden glares upon the Atlantic. \n\n* Our fair readers, as well as others who appreciate the color-effect of vegetation where trees are largely wanting to \ngive variety to scenery, may be interested in this subject. We therefore give it a brief note condensed from Doctor Mackay, \nthe distinguished botanist : \xe2\x80\x94 The wild district of Connemara furnishes a considerable number of rare and interest- \ning plants, the more remarkable of which are the following: Ihe. Eiica mediterratiea \xe2\x80\x94 Mediterranean heath, ^nVn \nmackaitma and Menzicsia palifolia, or Irish heath, which, as well as the beautiful variety with white flowers, are now gen- \neral favorites in garden collections ; the curious Erica septangulare , which also grows in the Island of Skye, Scotland, is \nhere seen in almost every lake ; the London pride, Saxifraga timbrosa, and Saxifraga oppositifolia, are found in abundance \nin the mountains, the delicate and beautiful Adiantum capilliis-veneris or true maiden-hair fern near Roundstone, and in \nprofusion on the Isles of Arran ; PimpineUa magna, the beautifully pink-streaked water pimpernel, and Silene anglica. \nIn a botanical tour through Connemara in 1838 the following plants were added to the flowers of that district : Carex \nfiliformis, Carex limosa, and Orohanche rubra ; the two former found in boggy ground, the latter on a limestone hill op- \nposite, it being hitherto only found on trap rocks, near Belfast and Magilligan. It differs also from the other species \nof the genus Orobaiuhe indigenous to Ireland, in not being parasitical. " Orobanchc rubra does not appear to derive its \nnourishment from any living plant, but is constantly found growing in the crevices of rocks." \n\n\n\n\n\n\nI I \n\n\n\n\n\'ulll\'j l\'.|,i|l \n\n\n\n\'I\'Vr \'N\xc2\xbb\'|i|\'^p \n\n\n\n(!\' -I ] \n\n\n\n\n2IO PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nAbout four miles from Glendalough or Recess, the road turns to the left by \na little chapel to Roundstone, and we cross the Owenmore or Ballinahinch River \nwhich carries the waters of the lakes to the head of Bertragboy Bay. We also \ncross the Glencoaghan River, which takes its rise in Bennabola. Under the \nbase of two of the Pins, Derryclare and Benlettery, whose bleak and barren \ngrandeur, towering bare and perpendicular to a great altitude over the road, \nforms a most striking feature, we proceed and keep the shores of Lough Bal- \nlinahinch for three miles. The wooded demesne is visible from the road ; but \ncommanding views of woods and waters can be had from the adjacent heights. \nThe house or castle is more remarkable for its situation than for any architectu- \nral attraction It stands upon the well-wooded bank of the long, narrow lake, and \nis backed by a range of lofty mountains. The old small castle seen on an island \nin the lake is said to have been built with stones taken from the ruins of \nToombeola Abbey near the confluence of the Owenmore River and the bay. \nBallinahinch was the seat of the Martin family, which was esteemed little if any- \nthing less than regal in this region, where it possessed 200,000 acres. As an evi- \ndence of the estimation in which the Martins were held, it was a common thing \nfor the peasantry, speaking of one of the last of the race, to say he " was the \nbest Martin that ever reigned." But the glory of the Martins has departed. \n\nThis district was anciently the territory of the O\'Flaherties, the most remark- \nable of whom, Edmond, Emtm laidir, or Strong Ned, is still remembered in Con- \nnaught. He had frequent encounters with Captain Richard Martin, who got \ngrants of his confiscated lands. They usually fought on horseback, sword in \nhand, and while Captain Martin was aided by his followers, O\' Flaherty singly \nbattled against them, and always cut his way through their ranks. After the \nRestoration the services of the O\'Flaherties to the Stuarts were forgotten, and \ntheir territory divided among patentees. Richard Martin obtained an immense \nextent of country \xe2\x80\x94 so great that when George IV. was mentioning to his de- \nscendant, Martin, M.P. for Galway, some extensive drive in Windsor, Mr. Mar- \ntin astonished the king by telling him " that the Martin avenue was thirty miles \nlong from the gate-house to the Mansion." It was so far true that no other \nhouse intervened between the pretty cottage called Martin\'s gate-house at \nOughterard and Ballinahinch. Yet, though the district changed owners, and \npassed from the O\'Flaherties to the Martins, no benefit accrued to the property ; \nfor though there was a town intended to be built at a place called Clare, it \nnever was proceeded with, and the vast estate of the Martins produced a very \ninconsiderable rental. The territories over which the lords of Ballinahinch \n\n\n\nGALIVAV. 211 \n\nruled gave them a high position, and as long as money could be raised on the \nestates, the race of Martins flourished in glory. The hospitality of Ballinahinch \nwas prodigal, and, instead of raising money to improve the estate, the Martins \nsquandered vast sums in " riotous living," and when the Incumbered Estates\' \nAct came into operation, it was found the estates would not go, " here or there, \nto pay the debts." The Law Life Assurance Company of London were early on \nthe list and got the property, and the fair daughter of the house and represen- \ntative of the Martin family emigrated to America, where she found an early \ngrave. Although the Law Life Assurance Company are for several years in \npossession, no attempt at improvement is visible, and the poet may still sarcas- \ntically point out this neglected tract as when Thomas Moore made Lord Eldon, \nin a travesty of Horace, exclaim : \n\n" Oh, place me \'mid O\'Rourkes, O\'Tooles, \nThe rugged royal blood of Tara ; \nOr place me where Dick Martin rules \nThe houseless wilds of Connemara." \n\nThe Dick Martin here alluded to was noted \xe2\x80\x94 among other things deemed \neccentricities \xe2\x80\x94 for the passage of the Act of Parliament for " the prevention \nof cruelty to animals," popularly known as " Martin\'s Act." \n\nThackeray visited Ballinahinch, and has left us in his Irzs/i Sketch-Book of \n1842, a glimpse of its picturesque beauties as well as an acknowledgment of the \nhospitality he received ; which, however genially stated, is quite suggestive of \nthe reason why the Martins no longer " rule " in Connemara. \n\n"The road had conducted us for miles through the vast property of the gen- \ntleman to whose house I was bound, Mr. Martin, the member for the county ; \nand the last and prettiest part of the journey was round the Lake of Ballina- \nhinch, with tall mountains rising immediately above us on the right, pleasant \nwoody hills on the opposite side of the lake, with the roofs of the houses rising \nabove the trees ; and in an island in the midst of the water a ruined old castle, \nthat cast a long, white reflection into the blue waters where it lay. A land-pirate \nused to live in that castle, one of the peasants told me. In the time of \' Oliver \nCromwell.\' And a fine fastness it was for a robber, truly, for there was no road \nthrough these wild countries in his time \xe2\x80\x94 nay, only thirty years since this lake \nwas at three days\' distance of Galway. \n\n" The builder of Ballinahinch House has placed it to command a view of a \npretty melancholy river that runs by it, through many green flats, and pictu- \n\n\n\n212 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nresque rocky grounds ; but from the lake it is scarcely visible. And so, in like \nmanner, I fear it must remain invisible to the reader too, with all its kind in- \nmates, and frank, cordial hospitality, unless he may take a fancy to visit Galway \nhimself, when, as I can vouch, a very small pretext will make him enjoy both. \nIt will, however, be only a small breach of confidence to say that the major-domo \nof the establishment (who has adopted accurately the voice and manner of his \nmaster, with a severe dignity of his own, which is quite original,) ordered me on \no-oing; to bed \' not to move in the morning till he called me,\' at the same time \nexpressing a hearty hope that I should \'want nothing more that evening.\' Who \nwould dare, after such peremptory orders, not to fall asleep immediately, and in \nthis way disturb the repose of Mr. J \xe2\x80\x94 n M \xe2\x80\x94 11 \xe2\x80\x94 y ? \n\n"There may be many comparisons drawn between English and Irish gentle- \nmen\'s houses ; but perhaps the most striking point of difference between the two \nis the immense following of the Irish house, such as would make an English \nhousekeeper crazy almost. Three comfortable, well-clothed, good-humored fel- \nlows walked down with me from the car, persisting in carrying \xe2\x80\x94 one a bag, ano- \nther a sketching stool, and so on : walking about the premises in the morning \nsundry others were visible in the court-yard and near the kitchen door ; in the \ngrounds a gentleman, by name Mr. Marcus C \xe2\x80\x94 rr, began discoursing to me about \nthe place, the planting, the fish, the grouse, and the master, being himself doubt- \nless one of the irregulars of the house. As for maids, there were a half a score of \nthem scurrying about the house ; and I am not ashamed to confess that some of \nthem were exceedingly good-looking. And if I might venture to say a word more, \nit would be respecting Connemara breakfasts ; but this would be an entire and \nflagrant breach of confidence, and to be sure the dinners were just as good." \n\nThe Ballinahinch waters, which extend from Lough Inagh to the sea, em- \nbracing the lakes alluded to in our progress westward, are celebrated among \nsportsmen, and have for them an additional charm to that of the picturesque. \n" The Ballinahinch district," so called, extends from Pigeon Point to Slyne Head, \nand embraces the Westport, Belclare, Bunowen, Carrownisky, Bundorragha, \nErriff, Culfin, Dawross, Traheen, and Derryborraun Rivers and their tributaries, \nand others not frequented by salmon. White trout are abundant in nearly all \nthese rivers, and the brown trout grow to a goodly size, rather above the aver- \nage compared with other districts. There is very little free fishing, but permis- \nsion to angle is seldom refused, and indeed, as the guide-book says, never to \na stranger. \n\n" O you," exclaims Thackeray, "who laboriously throw flies in English rivers, \n\n\n\n\n\nII.\\N _ _JN \\\\J_ilI_I IIIOII- NDi CO^JNEMVi- \\ \n\n\n\n214 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nand catch, at the expiration of a hard day\'s walking, casting, and wading, two or \nthree feeble little brown trouts of two or three ounces in weight, how would you \nrejoice to have but an hour\'s sport in Derryclare or Ballinahinch, where you \nhave but to cast, and lo ! a big trout springs at your fly, and, after making a vain \nstruggling, splashing, and plunging for a while, is infallibly landed in the net and \nthence in the boat. The single rod in the boat caught enough fish in an hour to \nfeast the crew, consisting of five persons, and the family of a herd of Mr. Mar- \ntin\'s, who has a pretty cottage on Derryclare Lake." . . . Thackeray\'s party \ntook refuee in this cottage out of the rain, when, he continues, " Marcus, the \n\nboatman, commenced \nforthwith to gut the fish, \nand, taking down some \ncharred turf-ashes from \nthe blazing fire, on which \nabout a hundred -Aveight \nof potatoes were boiling, \nhe \xe2\x80\x94 Marcus \xe2\x80\x94 proceeded \nto grill on the floor some \nof the trout, which we \nafterwards ate with im- \nmeasurable satisfaction. \nThey were such trout as, \nwhen once tasted, remain \nforever in the recollection \nof a commonly grateful mind \xe2\x80\x94 rich, flaky, creamy, full of flavor. A Parisian gour- \nmand woyAA have paid ten francs for the smallest ^o//^^;? among them. . . . They \nwere red or salmon trouts \xe2\x80\x94 none of your white-fleshed brown-skinned river \nfellows." A more recent English sportsman, writing in London Society, says : \n" For the man whose heart is in sporting, I know of no place so well adapted \nas Ireland. . . . There is very fair fishing in many parts of England, but for \nreal sport go to Ireland : . . . and as to flies, if I do not make them myself, I \nalways buy them of local men, who know what are required. They tie them \nbeautifully in Ireland, and know the required colors." \n\nTaking the road south of Lough Ballinahinch on the route to Roundstone, we \nrecede from Bennabola, and have, consequently, better views of the peaks than \nfrom the main road to Clifden, where we are under their base. Two and a half \nmiles by the Owenmore River brings us to Toombeola Bridge, where the over- \n\n\n\n\nA Salmon Haul. \n\n\n\nGALWAY. 215 \n\nflowing waters of loughs Garromin, Inagh, Derryclare, and Ballinahinch mingle \nwith the ocean. Here the tourist can enjoy the excitement of the noted salmon \nfishery, or take boat either to explore the beauties of Bertraghboy Bay, or the \nlakes mentioned. Near the bridge is the ruins of Toombeola Abbey, which are \nworthy of notice. Four miles farther, pleasantly situated on the western shores \nof the harbor that bears its name, is the little town of Roundstone. A good road \nis carried along the shore through a considerable extent of inhabited and cul- \ntivated country to Bunowen, nine miles distant, and there is also a good road to \nClifden, eleven miles. Nothing can be wilder, in the opinion of Thackeray, than \nthe country through which the road passes between Bunowen and Clifden. " We \npassed little lake after lake, lying a few furlongs inward from the shore. There \nwere rocks everywhere, some patches of cultivated land here and there, nor was \nthere any want of inhabitants along this savage coast. There were numerous \ncottages, if cottages they may be called, and women, and above all, children in \nplenty." The coast is fringed with numerous rocky islets. Slyne Head is on \nthe most westerly, which is twenty-nine acres in extent, and its highest point \neighty-nine feet. There are two light-houses here. \n\nRoundstone has a commodious and safe harbor, and great hopes are enter- \ntained for its future prosperity. The author of theA7io-/e7\' in Ireland \xe2\x80\xa2gw^\'s, us a \npretty picture of the locality. " The white cottages of Roundstone, clustering \naround the base of the hill of the same name, the broken rocky shores that on \nall sides encircle the bay, the gigantic arms that it extends d\xc2\xa9ep into the land, \nthe fishing boats idly rocking in the little port, with the many others skimming \nacross the blue water in every direction, and, beyond and above all, the lofty \nchain of the Twelve Pins piercing far into the azure vault of heaven, unstained by \na single cloud \xe2\x80\x94 these several objects of beauty alternately engaged my eye and \ncharmed my mind, as our tiny frigate shot across the bosom of this fine harbor." \n\nBack of Roundstone, perhaps a mile and a half to the west, the hill of Urris- \nbeg rises to an altitude of nearly one thousand feet. Like Cashel Hill on the \neastern side of the bay, Urrisbeg commands a vast prospect over land and sea; \nand if the tourist is favored with such propitious weather as that under which \nthe Angler just quoted beheld the coast, the ascent to the summit should be \nmade. From it the southwestern portion of Connemara, with its hundreds of \nglittering lakes, all the surrounding mountains, and the sea-bays with their \nislands can be traced through all their brilliant intricacies. Mr. Inglis thought \nthe view more singular than beautiful ; but his own words convey the impression \nthat it was quite as beautiful as singular. He says: " There is a mountain path. \n\n\n\n2l6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nabout halfway up ; and the remainder of the ascent is through heathy slopes, \nand over rocks with scarcely any bog-land intervening. Connemara is remarka- \nble for the variety of flowers and plants which grow wild upon its mountains. I \ngathered on Urrisbeg many very beautiful, and some of them rare wild flowers. \n. . . The view from the summit of Urrisbeg is more singular than beautiful. \nHere, Connemara is perceived to be truly that which its name denotes, \'bays of \n\nthe sea.\' The whole \n_ ^ _ western coast of Gon- \n\n- ^ nemara is laid open, \n\nwith its innumerable \n_ bays and inlets ; but \n\nthe most striking and \nsingular part of the \nview is that to the \nnorth, over the dis- \ntricts called Urrisbeg \nand Urrismore. These \nare wide level districts, \nspotted by an almost \nuncountable number \nof lakes ; and mostly \nentirely uncultivated and uninhabited. I endeavored, from my elevated position, \nto reckon the number of lakes, and succeeded in counting upwards of a hundred \nand sixty. Shoulders of the mountain, however, shut out from the view some \nof the nearer part of the plain ; and other parts were too distant to allow any \nvery accurate observations ; so that I have no doubt there may be three hun- \ndred lakes, great and small, in this wild and singular district. Several of the \nlakes have islands upon them ; and by the aid of a good telescope which I car- \nried with me I perceived that many of these islands were wooded." Notwith- \nstanding the wildness of the region and its remoteness Inglis found more than \none " wonderfully good inn," where, he added, " notwithstanding the claims of \nthe Blackwater, I think I may i^romise the traveler as prime a salmon as ever \nswam. Connemara is the country of salmon : every inlet and river is full of \nthem ; and this is the staple of every dinner in every inn in this part of Ireland. \nVariety in the mode of preparing the salmon stands instead of variety. \' Salmon \nboiled, salmon roasted, and salmon pickled are produced successively, in place \nof fish, flesh, and fowl." \n\n\n\n\nBelow the Falls at Clifden. \n\n\n\nGAL WA Y. \n\n\n\n217 \n\n\n\n\n\'k^S-^^ \n\n\n\n\nClifden can be reached, \nas intimated, from Round- \nstone, or, returning by \nLough BalHnahmch, the \nmore picturesque route can \nbe resumed. After leaving \nthe lough, a road to the \nright leads to the green- \nmarble quarries, where a finely streaked calcareous serpentine mottled stone with \nvarious shades of green and white is found. It is specially adapted for ornamental \ncolumns and mantels, and is worked into other forms, brooches, crosses, etc.. \n\n\n\nClifde: \n\n\n\n2i8 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nas souvenirs of a Connemara excursion. The ride from Ballinahinch to Clifden \nis " surprisingly beautiful ! " and, to use again the words of Thackeray, there are \nviews of the lake and the surrounding country, which, in his opinion, were not \nsurpassed by the best parts of Killarney, " although the Connemara lakes do not \npossess the advantage of wood, which belongs to the famous Kerry landscape." \n\nClifden is romantically situated on a height at the head of and overlooking \nthe harbor of Ardbear, an inlet of Clifden Bay ; while on the other side it is over- \ntopped by the mountains Avhich form a splendid amphitheater in the background. \n" It has arisen something after the fashion of an American town," says a writer ; \nbecause in 1815, it had but one house, and in the course of forty years it could \nboast of having four hundred houses. Although a stretch of fancy to compare \nthis growth with that of " an American town," it was a matter of historical and \nno ordinary gratification in Ireland. It was founded by Mr. D\'Arcy, one of the \ngreat proprietors. He pointed out the advantages which would accrue to this \nremote neighborhood of having a town and a sea-port so situated ; and he offered \nleases forever, of a plot of ground for building, together with four acres of moun- \ntain land, at but a short distance from the proposed site of the town, at twenty- \nfive shillings \xe2\x80\x94 about six dollars \xe2\x80\x94 per annum. This offer was most advantageous, \neven leaving out of account the benefit which would necessarily be conferred by \na town in a district where the common necessaries of life had to be purchased \nthirty miles distant ; and where there was no market, and no means of export for \nagricultural produce ; and so the town of Clifden was founded and grew.* \n\nBut if the town flourished, the founder did not. The D\'Arcys " have been \nreduced by their liberality," and, like the Martins, were sold out under the In- \ncumbered Estates Act. The views of Clifden from the eminences around it are \nsingularly attractive. The Owenglen River rushing down from Bennabola forms \na fine waterfall close to the town ; and the prison perched upon the rocky sum- \nmit of a hill overlooking it, gives, says Black\'s Guide, " in the distance, the idea \nof the Castle of Edinburgh." We may, perhaps, rather agree with Hall, that the \ncastellated form crowning the hill which rises between the Waterfall and the town \n(as seen in page 216) presents a somewhat Spanish appearance. The waterfall \nis, without doubt, remarkably picturesque, and a very attractive feature of Clifden. \nThe tumult of its cascades is heard amid the vivacity of the commerce of the pros- \nperous town : " the rush of waters mingles with the voices of its inhabitants ; yet, \nturning from the houses, it seems as lonely in its grandeur, as if in the center of \n\n* See Inglis, Ireland in 1S34, vol. ii., p. 74. \n\n\n\nGAL WAV. 219 \n\nthe untrodden hills." Rapidly flowing down from the Twelve Pins, the stream \npassing under an old-fashioned triple-arched bridge, which adds to the pictorial \neffect, suddenly turns at a right angle and leaps and shoots through a mass of \nrocks with very brilliant and fascinating effect. Reaching the bottom it takes \nanother sudden turn, and dashes under another bridge, which spans its rocky \nborders, to join the Atlantic. \n\nNowhere is the facility for improving certain descrijDtion of bog-lands more \nplainly and happily demonstrated than in the neighborhood of Clifden. Fine \ncrops of grass, potatoes, and various kinds of grain are seen luxuriantly growing \non land that was, not long in the past, only used for turf-cutting. As a harbor \nand sea-port, Clifden has important advantages; possessing deep water in thebay \nand safe anchorage for vessels of any burden. Many nautical men consider it \nthe best harbor on the west coast for large vessels, and the ships of war, when on \nservice in the Atlantic, frequent it, where they ride out the fiercest gales in per- \nfect security. \n\nClifden Castle, built by the former proprietor of the district and occupied \nby his successor Mr. Eyre, is less than two miles distant, beautifully situated \non the shores of Ardbear Harbor, adorned with thriving plantations and grassy \nlawns, and commanding an extensive view south and east. A path, open to the \npublic, runs along the bank of the bay from the town to the demesne, and affords \nthe tourist a delightful walk. Willis thought these two miles " one of the most \nbeautiful walks in Ireland;" and Inglis peremptorily says, "let no traveler be \nin this neighborhood without visiting Clifden Castle." He is enthusiastic on the \npleasure of this promenade, and his appreciation was enhanced by certain poetic \nsurroundings of time and weather. " The walk from Clifden," he writes, " by the \nwater side, is perfectly lovely : and the distance not greater than two miles. The \npath runs close by the brink of a long narrow inlet of the sea, the banks of which, \non both sides, are rugged and precipitous. It was an evening of extraordinary \nbeauty when I sauntered down this path ; the tide was full, and the inlet brimful \nand calm ; and beyond the narrow entrance of the bay lay in almost as glassy a \n\xe2\x96\xa0calm, though with a gentle heaving, the wide waters of the Atlantic. After \nreaching the entrance of the bay, and rounding a little promontory, Clifden Cas- \ntle comes into view. It is a modern castellated house ; not remarkable in itself, \nbut in point of situation unrivaled. Mountain and wood rise behind ; and a fine \nsloping lawn in front, reaches down to the beautiful land-locked bay ; while to the \nright, the eye ranges over the ocean, until it mingles with the far and dim hori- \nzon. Twenty years ago, the whole of this was a bog : now not a rood of bog- \n\n\n\n220 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nland is to be seen. The lawn I saw laden with a magnificent crop of hay ; while \nat the same time, the sunk fence showed a deep bog." \n\nReturning by the m.ountain road he was again delighted with the new views \nwhich this route disclosed, more Swiss in character than anything he had seen in \nIreland. "The mountain range behind Clifden \xe2\x80\x94 the Twelve Pins of Bennabola \n\xe2\x80\x94 is almost worthy of Switzerland. In its outline, nothing can be finer. Alto- \ngether I was greatly pleased with Clifden ; and I think I m.ay safely risk a \nprophecy, that this town will rapidly rise into importance." \n\nThe first quarter of a century of its existence was a period of remarkable \ndevelopment, and if the succeeding period has not been as enterprising in the \nsame ratio it was because of the slow rate of improvement in the interior. Its \nbeauty and advantages are universally acknowledged, and Sir John Forbes pays \nit an additional recognition which, coming from a distinguished physician, will \nnot be overlooked by invalids. After paying respect to " the majestic summits \nof the ever-charming Bennabola," he continues : " From the high grounds in its \nvicinity there is a full view of the Atlantic ; as well as of the innumerable sea- \ninlets that break through and inclasp the land on all sides with their glittering \narms. There is, indeed, something singularly pleasing in the landscape all \naround, particularly in that hilly ridge which looks along the Bay of Ardbear, and \ncommands the view of the wide Atlantic beyond it. Although I hardly know in \nwhat the charm consists, I have certainly seen no spot in Ireland which, from the \nattractiveness of mere locality, would claim my suffrage, as a place of residence, \nso entirely as Clifden. Over and above its scenic beauties, its position is such as \nto insure for it every terrestrial and climatorial condition that is found most con- \nducive to health." \n\nThe tract on which Clifden stands was formerly called Clochan or Cloughan, \nand it is still so called in the Irish, and means a beehive-shaped stone house. \nThe modern is a corruption of the old name, the ch being changed toy^ in this \nand other names of places, illustrations of which are given by Joyce. The hill \nof Cloughan-ard \xe2\x80\x94 the ascent of which is recommended for views of the town and \nvicinity \xe2\x80\x94 retains the original name. In connection with the old language, the \nauthor of A Run Thro-itgh the West of Ireland \\n\\-\\o was in Clifden on a market \nday, and had a good opportunity of observing and speaking with the concourse \nof people who had all sorts of commodities for sale, says, " We found nearly the \nwhole rural population speaking Irish. Throughout all our route we found Irish \nvery generally spoken, and as in our previous tours through Wicklow, Killarney, \nand the south, my English wife heard English almost universally used, she en- \n\n\n\n\n\n>,^ijrli^. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x80\xa2^- \n\n\n\n\',i^ y jTStt \' ./ \n\n\n\n\nCl-IFDEN FALLS. \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\ntertained the notion that the Irish language had completely died out. This- \nwas removed by her trip to Connemara." \n\nFor six or seven miles after leaving Clifden we have scenery of a varied and \nattractive character ; now climbing high steeps \xe2\x80\x94 now descending into deep val- \nleys, skirting and rounding inlets of the sea on the one side, and still, calm fresh- \nwater loughs on the other ; and at times catching glimpses of the long solitary \n\nvalleys and deep hollows that lie in the heart of \nthe mountains ; groups of cattle on the hillsides, \nor venturous goats on projecting rocks giving \nvariety and interest to the scene. The scenic \neffect is increased by a departure from the road, \nwhich on our course\' to Kylemore at some seven \nmiles from Clifden, leads us to Letterfrack, where \nthe tourist may pass a day pleasantly, ascending \nDiamond Mountain, and otherwise observing \nfacts which cannot but address themselves to his \nbetter feelings. The little place is commendably \nclean and comfortable, and owes what may be \nalmost termed " its existence " to the efforts of \nMr. Ellis, an English member of the Society of \nFriends, who by judicious expenditure has re- \nclaimed and improved a large extent of waste \nmoorland, and built a school, store, and good \ndwellings for the people in his employ. The Rev. \nMr. Smith in his Connemara Past and Present says,, \n" Letterfrack a few years ago Avas a barren rock ; \nit is now a crown of beauty. It was a region of \nhaggard looks and walking skeletons ; it is now animated by a well-looking, a \nwell-fed, and a well-paid peasantry. . . . Formerly the poor had no market \nnearer than Clifden, or even Westport (in Mayo), twenty-seven miles off ! but \nnow there are provisions and goods of every description, which at a moderate \nprice, without loss of time and labor, they can readily buy. Formerly the soil \nrefused to the indolent spade the riches which it possessed ; but now, as we were \nwitnesses, the land gives forth a liberal increase." Forbes describes the settle- \nment as " a sort of straggling village, containing a grand new shop, built and \nendowed by Mr. Ellis, and which is the wonder and the comfort of all the coun- \ntry round. It is a perfect storehouse of all kinds of necessaries, all I believe, of \n\n\n\n\nOn the Kylemore Road. \n\n\n\nGALWAY. 223 \n\nthe best sort, and transferable to the uses of the community at the lowest \n. possible scale of prices." By indefatigable exertion and the expenditure of much \nmoney a green smiling island of cultivation has been raised amid the dark desert \nof moorland that surrounds it ; and in this grand work, not only the land, but \nthe population were reclaimed from impending ruin. A visit to the school, the \nwhole outlay of which \xe2\x80\x94 including the salaries of a master and mistress \xe2\x80\x94 was \n\xe2\x80\xa2 defrayed by Mr. Ellis, disclosed some features which cannot be better described \nthan in the words of the English scientist whose work is largely devoted to \n"educational interests." \n\nHe found some sixty boys and thirty-two girls, and " not one Protestant in \neither school." In addition to book-learning and writing the girls were \'"\' carefully \ntaught sewing, and the other mysteries of the needle." " I remarked that the \nboys were more rugged, and altogether less neatly dressed than in most of the \nNational schools I had visited, and was told that this was the result of principle \non the part of Mr. Ellis, he deeming it unsuitable to hold out any mere physical \nlure to attract children to the school, and wishing to encourage the parents to \nmake an effort to clothe their families out of their own earnings. Ragged as \nthey were, however, they were fully a match, in point of learning, for the boys \nof any school I had yet seen in Ireland. Their feats in mental arithmetic were \nreally alarming to men accustomed to do their little reckonings in pen and ink ; \nand were enough to frighten from their ancient haunts, if any still lingered there, \nall the elves and fairies and brownies of the Malloge Mountain, at whose base \nthey were performed. The aspect of the girls\' school was very different, and \nseemed to whisper the secret that the womanly care that presided here was \nnot so rigid, at least, in the matter of political economy, as was the masculine \nauthority ; the girls being all extremely neat and well dressed, with a great array \nof charming white pinafores. However, it appeared that even Mrs. Ellis was \nnot altogether regardless of social economics, as she made the children buy the \nmain parts of their dress out of their own earnings with the needle, she only \nsupplying, from her own private stores, the pinafores aforesaid. On the whole, \nlooking on this scene in all its varied relations, I doubt if I found anything in \nIreland more delightful \xe2\x80\x94 more especially as there was added to its intrinsic \nattractions the enhancing charm of unexpectedness." \n\nLetterfrack is situated on Bernaderg Bay, and has its advantages as a fishing \nstation as well as a point from which to make excursions ; within a mile looms up \nthe cone of Diamond Hill (see p. 213), which overlooks the pass of Kylemore, \nSalruc, and Killery Bay, and gives fine views of the Twelve Pins. The road here \n\n\n\n224 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nbranches to Rinvyle, situated on a peninsula which, though more exposed to the \nAtlantic storms than other portions of the seaboard, is comparatively speaking \nwell cultivated. The unpretentious ruins of a castle and church are seen near \nRinvyle Point. The castle overlooks the sea ; and here history and romance \nwith their thousand recollections, unite to people the locality with the phantoms \nof the past, as if to heighten the present aspect of the singularly romantic \nscene, by reminiscences of the turbulent deeds of which it once was the theater. \n\nTwo miles from Letterfrack on the road round the Twelve Pins, the river \nDawross \xe2\x80\x94 wh ich \n\ncarries off the \' \n\nwater from \nloughs Kylemore \nand PoUacappul \nand many moun- \ntain torrents into \nBallynakele Har- \nbor \xe2\x80\x94 is crossed ; \nand at this point \nwe get the first \nview of the Pass \nof Kylemore. \n\nWe next reach Adragoole, which \xe2\x80\x94 a heathy waste a few years \nsince \xe2\x80\x94 has been transformed by another English settler, Mr. \xe2\x80\x94 ^ \nEastwood, into a place of comfort arid cultivation. Passing \' ^o^^ - \n\nthe small Lough PoUacappul on the right, we reach the Pass and soon behold \nthe beautiful Lough Kylemore. The Pass is about three miles long, and the \nlough, two, and about half a mile wide. It is universally regarded as the most \nbeautiful lake in Connemara, and indeed some deem it one of the most beau- \ntiful and romantic pieces of water in all Ireland. It fills up the whole space \nbetween lofty ranges of almost perpendicular mountains of great altitude. On \nthe south side the copse-covered acclivities rise in succession to the towering- \npeaks of Ben-cullagh and Ben-bawn, over 2,306 feet ; on the north, Garraun, \nmore steep and rocky at the water base, rises to a height of 1,973 feet and sepa- \nrates Glen Fee from the Pass ; while on the east the view is prolonged over moss \nand moor to the lofty mountains of Maam Turk. The remains of the great birch \nwood, interspersed with holly and gnarled oak, take root among the crevices of \nthe rocks on Garraun, and garland the immense impending ledges piled one \n\n\n\n\nCoast at Rinvvli \n\n\n\n\nGALIVAV. 225 \n\nabove the other, seemingly detached, and ready to precipitate themselves upon \nthe traveler by the shore. In this wood is found the exquisite white heath. On \nthe opposite side the grass and heather sparkle in the sun, and by moonlight ap- \npear quite silvery. Solitude, grandeur and sublimity are the characteristics of the \n\n\n\n/n the Pass of Kylemore. \n\nsurrounding scenery. Situated in a most interesting position, the hotel is .near \nthe head of the lough, and also near the head of Glen Inagh, from the southern \npart of which near Recess we have made the circuit of the wonderful Bennabola \ngroup. No better place can be chosen than Kylemore from which to explore the \ninner glens, dells and recesses of that extraordinary assemblage of mountains ; \nIS \n\n\n\n226 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nbesides having the Joyce Country and Maam within easy reach. On the border \nof Lough Kylemore, Mitchell Henry, M.P., has erected a very picturesque cas- \ntellated residence, which surpasses anything in the west. \n\nThe enthusiasm in favor of Kylemore Pass and Lough is not of recent ex- \npression. Inglis did not hesitate to say that the scenery from Clifden to the \nKilleries and Leenane was the finest in Ireland. In his opinion nothing at \nKillarney came at all near it for boldness of character. He would not be \nunderstood as disparaging the Kerry lakes, which for combination of form and \ncolor \xe2\x80\x94 in wood and water \xe2\x80\x94 are not to be surpassed ; but, he says, "in speaking of \nKillarney, I think I ventured to observe, that no approach to sublimity was to \nbe found ; and as, in the part of Ireland of which I am now speaking, there are \nundoubted approaches to the sublime, with all of the picturesqueness that de- \npends upon form, I think these ought to weigh heavier in the balance, than that \nsoftened beauty, which at Killarney is created by abundance and variety of wood, \nand consequent splendor of coloring. I know that a far stronger impression \nwas made on my mind in this journey, than by anything I saw at Killarne}^ Be \nit known too, that this is a country of lakes \xe2\x80\x94 lakes Avith as fine mountain boun- \ndaries as are to be found in the three kingdoms." On the side of the mountain \noverhanging Kylemore Lough there dwelt for some years a noted outlaw, Johnny \nGibbons, who levied blackmail on the inhabitants of the glens, and around whose \ndeeds time has woven a sort of Rob Roy romance. His den was a cave, the \nentrance to which was so small as to baffle discovery by those unacquainted \nwith it; from this he made his forays on the settlers, and like an eagle swooped \nback with his prey to his eyrie in the crags. \n\nAs stated, Garraun Mountain separates Kylemore from Glen Fee, and one \nof tlie excursions which will best repay the tourist can be made from the Pass, \nthrousfh the Glen to Salruc and the Killeries. Leaving what is known as the \nmain road from Clifden, where it turns through Glen Fee, we command perhaps \nthe very finest views of Bennabola in ascending the ridge between Kylemore and \nKillery. Here the Twelve Pins lose somewhat the character in which we have \nseen them \xe2\x80\x94 resembling the coroneted spikes of a mighty crown \xe2\x80\x94 and assume \none of an opposite physical conformation. Here they appear more detached \nthan from any other point, and present their towering spiral forms in lengthened \narray. As we ascend, the change in the aspect extends to the east as well as on \nthe south, and the dome-like summits of Maam Turk Mountains present a circu- \nlar outline, contrasting as well in form as in sweep of position to the Bennabcla \npeaks. Here also the eye takes in the vale of Glen Inagh. \n\n\n\nGAL WA Y. \n\n\n\n227 \n\n\n\nIn Glen Fee \xe2\x80\x94 the scenery of which in Eraser\'s opinion is more allied to the \nsublime than that of Kylemore \xe2\x80\x94 is the lough of the same name, two miles long \nand three quarters of a mile wide, and the lesser Lough Muck. These lakes are \ncompletely embosomed between Garraun, and the high ridge which on the north \nseparates Glen Fee from Killery Harbor. The glen widens inward \xe2\x80\x94 that is, \neastwardly to the plain which stretches to Maam Turk, while on the west the \ndeclivities of its mountain boundaries contract it to a ravine. We again turn to \nthe right or north from the road which leads from Lough Muck to the Rinvyle \ncoast, and keep to \nthe ridge of Salruc. \nIn ascending and \ndescending this \nridge, views of great \nbeauty and splendor \nare presented for \nour admiration. \nThe Pass of Salruc \nis a precipitous de- \nfile, and, though \ndeemed perilous, is \nsafely traversed with \nthe aid of a moun- \ntain pony. From \nthe Pass the panorama, so to speak, at either side is wonderfully beautiful. In \ndescending, one of the most striking scenes in Connemara is gradually displayed \n\xe2\x80\x94 embracing the village, demesne, and church of Salruc, the lesser Killery Har- \nbor, with its rocky Isles, and Innisbofifin in the distance, the beautiful pastoral \nridge that encircles the lesser and separates it from the greater Killery, and \nfarther in the northwest Muilrea, the loftiest mountain in the west. The vast \nexpanse of ocean beyond the bay very naturally awakens different trains of \nthought \xe2\x80\x94 and doubtless heightened by contrast \xe2\x80\x94 to those excited as Mr. Fraser \nsuggests, by the contemplation of the lonely tiny loughs which adorn the bosoms \nof the more central glens, while the lofty Muilrea, aided in its effect by the inter- \nvention of the remarkable pastoral ridge which separates the Killeries, imposes \na solemnity on all around. The guide pays a just tribute to General Thompson, \na veteran who took up his abode here and added to the magnificence of nature \nby the judicious culture and civilizing influences of art and reclamation. \n\n\n\n\n228 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nIf \n\n\n\n\n\n\nKillery Harbor, a \ngreat feature of the -west \nand the aim and end of \nmuch touring, is within a \nmile of Salruc Pass On \nreaching this mountain \nbound estuary the road \nturns to the east but at \na sufificient altitude to \nafford a noble \\ leu of its \nlongitudinal range and \nwhat Forbes calls its \nsingular environment by \nits mountainous girdle. \nAfter being spell-bound \nby its effect, we pause to \nsee and learn what caused \nit. The Killery is, we \nfind, a narrow arm of the \nsea extending some ten miles into the land between the counties of Gahvay and \nMayo, completely overhung by lofty mountains, nearly as elevated, and of as \npicturesque form as any in Ireland. The Irish name appropriately indicates it \nas the reddish narrow sea-inlet. Inglis described it as resembling- a Norwegian \n\n\n\n\n\n\nyX \n\n\n\nSalruc Pass. \n\n\n\nGAL WA Y \n\n\n\n229 \n\n\n\nfiord, but the lack of woods does not fill out the details of such a suggestion. \nThe sensation experienced by Otway is realized by every tourist \xe2\x80\x94 that, while \nsailing on the bay, locked in as you apparently are on every side, were it not for \nthe smell and color, and vegetation peculiar to the sea, you would imagine you \nwere on a mountain lake. " But," as he adds, " there is scarcely any lake which \nhas not a iante end, generally that where the superabundant waters flow off and \nform a river ; but here nothing was tame. On every side the magnificent moun- \ntains seemed to vie with each other which should keep your attention most." \n\n\n\n\nHotel at Maam. \n\n\n\nMost of the mountains we have passed or seen, are here in sight ; with others, \nand Muilrea with its cap of clouds that it has caught, and anon flings fitfully off, \nas much as to say, " I am the great cloud-compeller of Europe, and not one of \nyou, ye proud rangers of the sky, shall come from the banks of Newfoundland \nwithout paying me tribute." \n\nLeenane is near the head of the Killery \xe2\x80\x94 a most picturesque and desir- \nable place for the artistic tourist. It is in the center of the Joyce\'s Country, \na district of the northwest of Galway embracing the Killeries, parts of loughs \nCorrib and Mask and the Maam Turk group. This district derives its name \nfrom a settlement made in it in the reign of Edward I. by Thomas Joyes or \nJoyce, who married the daughter of an Irish chieftain. His people and their de- \nscendants adopted the Irish language and customs, were distinguished as a race \nremarkable for physical strength and appearance, gave their name to the territory \n\n\n\n230 . PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nin which they dwelt, and were subjects of comment and admiration to numerous \nwriters. \n\nLeenane \xe2\x80\x94 the " head of the sea " \xe2\x80\x94 is the extreme point to which the tide in \nthe Killery flows. Thackeray\'s note on his trip to it is characteristic and pic- \ntorially suggestive. It is twenty miles from Clifden, and to arrive at it, he says, \n"you skirt the mountain along one side of a vast pass through which the ocean \nruns from Killery Bay, separating the mountains of Mayo from the mountains of \nGalway. Nothing can be more grand and gloomy than this pass ; and as for \nthe character of the scenery, it must, as the guide-book says, \' be seen to be un- \nderstood.\' Meanwhile let the reader imagine huge, dark mountains, in their \naccustomed scenery of purple and green, a dull gray sky above them, an estuary \nsilver bright below ; in the water lies a fisherman\'s boat or two ; a pair of sea- \ngulls, undulating with the little waves of the water ; a pair of curlews wheeling \noverhead, and piping on the wing, and on the hillside a jingling car with a \ncockney in it, oppressed by, and yet admiring all these things. Many a sketcher \nand tourist, as I found, had visited this picturesque spot ; for the hostess of the \ninn had stories of English and American painters, and of illustrious book-writers \ntoo, traveling in the service of our lords of Paternoster Row." \n\nAs Leenane stands on the junction of the road from Clifden to Westport \nand that leading to Maam, we can make the circuit of Connemara by taking the \nlatter on the return to the town of Galway. The Maam Turk (the path or pass \nof the Boar ; in the same sense as, beyond the Missouri, we say Buffalo trail) is \nthe longest mountain chain in the district, and forms the boundary between \nConnemara and the Joyce Country, their summits being between 2,000 and \n2,500 feet. Rising near the head of Lough Corrib they sweep in a semicircular \ncourse to Leenane, a distance of twelve miles, and separate Glen Inagh from \nthe valley of Bealanabrack, through which the road to Maam lies. The River \nBealanabrack, which seeks Lough Corrib through the center of this valley, has \nits head springs not far from the Killery, but, flowing in an opposite direction, \nseem, as Otway says, to turn their backs on it " as if desirous, like poor mortals \nclinging to human life, to keep away as long as possible from the immense \nand awful ocean of eternity." \n\nComing down the glen we reach, at a distance of seven miles from Leenane, \nLough Nafooey and its waterfall, and as we proceed have excellent views of the \nupper end of Lough Corrib and that vast tract of the mountainous district of the \nJoyce Country which lies around the western shores of Lough Mask ; and of the \npretty valley in which the Maam Hotel is situated. This hotel was built by Mr. \n\n\n\nGAL WAV. \n\n\n\n231 \n\n\n\nNimmo, the celebrated engineer, for his own accommodation while professionally \nengaged in this district, and stands beside an elegant bridge which crosses an \narm of Lough Corrib, where the Bealanabrack pours its mountain waters into it. \nOtway did not know any spot in the British Isles so favorable as this for observ- \ning, within a limited compass, fine lake, river, ocean, and mountain scenery ; and \nHall, who had seen many scenes of wilder and more rugged grandeur, saw \nnothing in Connemara that astonished or delighted him more than this valley \xe2\x80\x94 \nnothing that \n" so happi ly \nmingled the \nsublime and \nb e a u t i f u 1." \nThe inn at \nMaam stands \nin the very \nfocus of all \nthat is grand \nand beautiful \nof a district \nabounding in \nbeauties. From \nit can be visited \n\nthe various localities we have passed through, and \nthe adjacent and more interesting parts of Lough \nCorrib, \xe2\x80\x94 we can sail on the quiet waters, or climb the rugged pass which leads \nover Maam Turk into Glen Inagh. \n\nAfter having rushed in torrents down the mountains the river moves placidly \nto meet the arm of Lough Corrib put forth to receive it at Maam. On a low \npromontory jutting out into the lake and with a background of the mountains \nare the ivy-crowned ruins of the Hen\'s Castle, which is said to have been built \nby Roderick O\'Conor, the last king, as a refuge in case he should be driven by \nhis foes from the sanctuary of Cong, on the Mayo side of the lough. Other ac- \ncounts give its origin to the sons of Roderick, and Richard de Burgo. It is \nregarded as one of the most ancient military structures in the country. Its \nisolated position and character have led the people to believe that its origin was \nsupernatural, and that it was built " by enchantment in one night by a cock and \nhen grouse, who had been an Irish prince and princess." \n\n\n\n\nHens Ctsth in L u h L 1 1 ib \nMaam Turk Mountains \n\n\n\n232 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nA popular legend indicates perhaps the origin of the name by which the ruin \nis known. A lady of the O\'Flahertys \xe2\x80\x94 Bivian \xe2\x80\x94 a widow and an heiress with \nan only daughter, fearing the designs of her own family and the De Burgos on \nher property, shut herself and child with twenty faithful followers in this castle. \nLest this course might be used to her disadvantage, Dame Bivian wrote, in her \nmaiden name, to Queen Elizabeth, describing the disaffection in the country and \nthe writer\'s desire to maintain peace, and begging permission to arm her followers- \nfor that purpose. The queen, unacquainted with the gender of Irish names, \naddressed a letter to her good friend " Captain Bivian O\'Flaherty," authorizing \nthe maintenance of twenty men at arms at her majesty\'s expense. In " preserv- \ning the peace " Bivian took care of her rights and those of her child, who in time \nwon a male protector in the person of Thomas Blake, the ancestor of the Blakes \nof Menlough, whose castle is so romantically situated a few miles from the town \nof Galway on the left bank of the Corrib. \n\nLough Corrib is in extent second to Lough Neagh, but in picturesque sur- \nroundings it is much superior. It is, from Maam to the town of Galway, about \nthirty-five miles in length. Its breadth is very variable, narrowing to a quarter of \na mile between the Joyce Country and the hills of lar-Connaught, and extending- \nto over eight miles between Oughterard and Cong. In depth it also varies \xe2\x80\x94 the \nnavigation course in some places having but six or seven feet of water ; while in \nother parts, as between Inchmicatreer and Cong, and Dooms and Farnaght Point \n\xe2\x80\x94 called the " Old Lough" by the fishermen, it descends to a depth of 152 feet. \nIt was formerly called Orbsen, or Lough Orib (corrupted by combination of \nsound into its present name), after Orbsen Mac Alloid, the Danann navigator, \ncommonly called Mannan Mac Lir, the Son of the Sea, from whom the Isle of \nMan was also named. He was slain in battle on the west of the lake by Ullin, \nwhich circumstance gave the title of Moycullin {Magh-Ullin, the field of Ullin) \nto the district. The lough covers an area of 43,483 acres, and its water-shed in \nMayo and Galway 780,000 acres. It is supplied by several streams from the \nJoyce Country \xe2\x80\x94 the Turloughs on the east; and a subterranean communication \nfrom Lough Mask, which is distant about two miles. \n\nThe shores and islands of Lough Corrib are full of historical and anti- \nquarian interest, and have furnished Sir William Wilde with the materials for a \nwork which must be consulted to fully enjoy the subject in detail. Loughs \nCorrib and Mask are separated by a ridge, from the heights of which some fine \nviews of both lakes are obtained. A most favorable point for observation is \nthe pretty village of Fairhill. Lough Mask is thirty-seven feet above Lough \n\n\n\n\n\nLEENANE. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n234 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nCorrib, and the chasm where the water of the former debouches from the sub- \nterranean channel is well worth a visit. It is called the Pigeon-Hole, and is \nabout eighty feet deep in the limestone waste that extends on all sides. Rock \nis piled on rock in solemn and grand desolation. Around the chasm are fringes \nof wild rose, honeysuckle, purple heath, and the palmated lady-fern, while from \nbelow arise the echoing murmurs of rushing waters. Descending, the bottom \ndiscloses a cave of considerable magnitude, through which the water \xe2\x80\x94 which \nseems alive with trout \xe2\x80\x94 flows in a strong stream, now flashing in the sunbeam \nthat pierces down through the gloomy aperture, and then flowing darkly on, \nlosing itself in the obscurity of the cavernous passages into which it falls with \nmany a weird moan. When Otway visited this chasm its effect was heightened \nby an old crone who accompanied him as guide. He says : " She set fire to a wisp \ndrawn from the bundle of straw she carried, and proceeding down along the \ncavern, far away from where the sun was sending his intrusive beams, she tossed \non high her blazing wisp, and having given it sufficient windage, until it lit up \nfully the dark, mysteriously varied roof, she cast it forth on the waters, and on \nit went floating and still blazing, carrying forward its light, and discovering on \nand on the vaults and passages, now high, now low, eddying and whirling and \nflashing up its fitful blaze until it was extinguished in the far distance where \nthe stream plunged down and was lost where eye never followed." \n\nIn contrast to this subterrene wonder, we may briefly revert to a physical \ncommotion which occurred on the surface of the earth a few years ago at Dun- \nmore in the northern part of Galway. It was occasioned by the bursting of a bog, \nan account of which was received with the accompanying sketch by Mrs. W. D. \nGriffith of Dunmore. The bog, three miles east of the town, was connected with \nthe Dunmore River by the Carrabel, a small stream flowing through pasture and \nplow lands. The bog was considerably elevated above the surrounding coun- \ntry, and its skirts adjoining the arable land presented the usual appearance of \nhigh turf banks. A farmer digging potatoes suddenly observed a brown mass \nslowly approaching. Leaving his spade in the ground he went for the neighbors, \nand on his return, the mass of moving bog had half covered his potato field, and \ncompletely hidden his cornfield from sight, except a few stacks which remained \non a knoll, an island in the midst of a scene of desolation. The bog continued \nto advance in a rolling mass down the valley of Dunmore, burying three \nfarm-houses, and covering about iSo acres of pasture and arable land to a depth \nof six feet, and leaving the occupants of three homeless. The source of the \ndisaster presented a strange appearance : the extent of the bog being defined by \n\n\n\nGALJVAY. \n\n\n\n235 \n\n\n\na series of black crevasses, where the upper surface had been torn asunder by \nthe subsidence below. The " turloughs " present a peculiar feature in the west, \nand consist of vast winter accumulations of water in basins of great extent, chiefly \nin the limestone districts. The water disappears in summer, sinking through \nthe cavernous subterranean passages common to the geological formation, and is \nthus conveyed to \nthe lower levels, \nleaving behind \nlarge tracts of \nmost excellent \npasturage ; facts \nwhich suggested \nthe remark that \nboat and horse \nraces are alter- \nnately held on- \nthem. Turlough- \nMore and Tur- \n1 o u g h-C o r are \ntwo of the chief \n\nsources of winter supply on the eastern side of Lough Corrib. These turloughs, \nwhich in Munster are called "blind loughs," were famous water-fowl haunts in win- \nter, but since the drainage operations portions of several of them have been tilled. \nIn the parish of Killursa, on the eastern margin of Lough Corrib, are the \nruins of an old church, which recall, directly and indirectly, reminiscences dear to \nreligion and poetry. It is Killfursa Church, built by Saint Fursey, a holy man \nof the seventh century, who attained great celebrity, and, inflamed with the zeal \nof an apostle, extended his missionary labors from his native country Into Eng- \nland and France. In the former, Sigebert, king of East Anglia, abdicated the \nsceptre to become a monk under his direction ; and in the latter he was received \nwith great honor by Clovis II., who gave him land upon which to found (in 644) \nthe monastery of Lagny-sur-Marne, the fame of which under his direction became \nworld-wide. He had ecstasies of deep import, and angelic visions, during his \nlife ; and the poet Dante * is supposed to have been indebted to them for the \n\n* Dean Milman, alluding to the visions of tlae French monk St. Farcy (Fursey), says "they were among the most \npopular and wide-spread legends of the ages preceding Dante." The Rev. John O\'Hanlon, in his wonderfully erudite \nand laborious work on the Lives of the Irish Saints, says the first vision of St. Fursey appears to have been the earliest \n\n\n\n\n236 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nplan of his Divina Commcdia. The materials for the life of Saint P^ursey are \nnumerous, and are preserved in the chief libraries of Europe \xe2\x80\x94 among others, \nthose of Lambeth, Stowe, Monte Cassino, Stuttgart, Florence, the Vatican. In \nthe Burgundian library at Brussels there is a manuscript copy of his Acts in Irish, \nwhich was transcribed from an older copy by Brother Michael O\'Clery. Of these \nmaterials the Rev. John O\'Hanlon has made eminently interesting use in his life \nof the Saint. The church \xe2\x80\x94 the walls of which are still standing though dilapi- \ndated \xe2\x80\x94 is mentioned in the taxation of Pope Nicholas V., 1306 \xe2\x80\x94 a document \npreserved in the British Museum. The tradition on the banks of Lough Corrib, \naccording to Sir William Wilde, was, that Kilfursa or Killursa, Killany and Kil- \ncuanna were built by three brothers, Fursa, Eany, and Cuana, who flourished in \nthe early ages of Christianity.* These churches were said to be of the same form \nand style and extent \xe2\x80\x94 sixty feet long and eighteen wide ; but the western gable \nof Kilfursa, as seen in the sketch \xe2\x80\x94 copied from O\'H anion\'s work \xe2\x80\x94 contains a \nsquare-headed Egyptian-looking doorway, at least twelve hundred years old. It \nmeasures five feet four inches in height ; only two feet in breadth at top and two \nfeet five inches at the ground. The time-worn lintel is three feet eight inches \nlong ; and the greater number of the stones extend the whole thickness of the \nwall, which is two feet six inches. Every other feature of the church is Gothic. \nThe east end contains a beautiful Gothic window of considerable size, which is \npartially covered with ivy, as indeed a large portion of the ruin is. There are \nother ruins in the neighborhood, but it has been noticed that Kilfursa is the \nonly one which has the east gable standing. \n\nThe Clare River empties the waters of Lough Turloughmore on the eastern \nside of Lough Corrib. If we follow it up we shall \xe2\x80\x94 at a distance of some seven \nmiles from the " City of the Tribes " \xe2\x80\x94 reach Clare-Galway, which though rarely \nvisited is well worth the attention of the artist. The ruins of the abbey \xe2\x80\x94 which \nwas founded in 1290 by John De Cogan, a descendant of that Milo who first led \nan English army of invasion into Connaught \xe2\x80\x94 are still in a fair state of preser- \nvation, and present a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, especially the \nsquare tower, which is elevated upon arches. A castle was subsequently built \n\nof its class, and to have been the original of many similar subsequent ones, such as the vision of Adaninan, of Tundal, of \nFrate Alberico of Monte Cassino, and others. " There can scarcely be a doubt entertained," he says, "that it furnished \nDante, in a great measure, with the idea and plan of his sublime poem, the Divina Cominedia. Even various passages \n(which he subsequently gives from the translations of Longfellow and Gary) seem drawn from St. Fursey\'s vision ; for the \ncoincidences are too strikingly similar to be fortuitous." \n\n* See Sir William Wilde\'s Lough Corrib, its Shores and Islands, etc., pp. 83, 99. O\'Hanlon, Livt-s of the Irish Saint/ \nvol. i., pp. 223. 240-261-273. \n\n\n\n\nVIEWS IN CONNEMARA. \n\n\n\n238 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nhere by the Burkes: and in it the Earl of Clanrickard in 1642 received the \nproposition for the surrender of Galway as signed by the mayor, Walter Lynch. \nIts position was so highly esteemed that, on losing it in the following year by a \nstratagem, Clanrickard bitterly lamented its loss as " the chief place of strength \nand importance I had, both to curb the town of Galway and command the coun- \ntry thereabouts." The ruins of the castle and abbey with the old bridge spanning \nthe stream make an exceedingly striking picture (p. 177). Three miles farther \nis Cregg Castle, noteworthy as the residence of Richard Kirwan, the eminent \n\nwriter on chemistry and \nmineralogy ; and the birth- \nplace of his brother, the great \npreacher Dean Walter Blake \nKirwan, the overlooking of \nwhose talents while the tu- \ntors and chaplains of English \npeers were preferred to Irish \nbenefices, led Grattan, in the \nHouse of Commons, to re- \nmark that " if Mr. Kirwan \nhad been an English block- \nhead, he might have been \nlong ere now an Irish bishop * \nbut, unfortunately for him, he is an Irishman, and the original sin of his birth \nwill never be forgiven him." \n\nIn this section are the venerable ruins of Knockmoy. They have no special \npretension to grandeur ; but the choir of the abbey is more than usually interest- \ning, containing the tomb of Cathal Crovdearg O\'Conor, king of Connaught \xe2\x80\x94 " the \nbest Irishman that came from the time of Brian Boru" * \xe2\x80\x94 and some famous and \ncurious paintings in fresco. Forty years ago, these frescos were in a sufficient \nstate of preservation, although dilapidated, to convey some idea of the artistic \nand spirited manner of their design and execution. Over the tomb of Cathal \nwas the taking down from the cross, the outline of which was firmly and freely \n\n* " A man in whom God had implanted more goodness with greater virtues than in any other of the Irish nobility of \nhis time. From the period of his wife\'s death till his own, he led a single and virtuous life. During his reign tithes \nwere first lawfully collected in Ireland. This upright and noble prince, this warrior of pure piety and just judgments, \ndied on the twenty-eighth day of summer, on a Monday, in the habit of a gray friar, in the monasteiy of Knockmoy, \nwhich he himself had dedicated to God, and granted to the monks with its site and lands, and in which he was interred \n\xe2\x80\xa2with due honors and solemnity," A.D. 1224. \xe2\x80\x94 Annals of the Four Masters. \n\n\n\n\nRuins of Kilfursa. \n\n\n\nGAL WAY. 239 \n\ndrawn, and although the coloring was almost obliterated by damp and neglect it \nshowed the muscular tension of one who had died in great pain. Two other \ndesigns, on a large compartment nearer to the altar, have been the subject of \nmuch speculation and some controversy. The upper design represents six figures, \nclothed in rich and flowing robes : the one in the middle is said to be Roderick \nO\'Connor, monarch of Ireland at the period of the Anglo-Norman invasion \xe2\x80\x94 who \nholds a shamrock in his hand emblematic of his sovereignty, while at either side \nare attendant princes, one holding what is said to be a hawk, and another a \nsword. Below this a sitting figure holds what appears to be a roll of paper. To \nhis right is the figure of a young man in front of a tree, his arms evidently pinioned, \ntransfixed with arrows, while two archers are in the act of still shooting at him. \nFor an outline it appeared exceedingly spirited, and reminded the observer of \nthe frescos then recently copied from drawings in the temples and catacombs of \nEgypt. The fresco representing the youth slain by arrows is, in spirit, design, \nand costume, somewhat similar to the designs on Bayeux tapestry and other \nworks of early Norman art. Petrie, Ledwich, Dutton, the author of the Statistical \nS^irvey of Galway, Otway and others are of opinion that these Knockmoy fres- \ncos are " of the early Norman period, and were, if anything, only repaired and \nretouched by the priests of the seventeenth century, who, if they painted any- \nthing, would have represented some saintly legend, or some scenes which magni- \nfied their church."* Henry O\'Brien not only dates them before the early \nNorman, but long anterior to the Christian era : and finds in them an illustration \nof his theory of the connection of ancient Ireland with the East and its religious \nworship. He argues that the abbey is a remnant of a Tuath-de-danann temple, \n" vaulted with stone, and transformed in after ages to a Christian abbey ; " that \nthe frescos are at least three thousand years old, and represent the youth Apollo \n"overthrowing by self-endurance the dominion of sin ! and finally, by immolation \nupon a tree, to which you perceive him pinioned, establishing ascendency over \nthe serpent and his wiles, and pointing out the road to eternity beyond the grave ! " \nIn some of the upper figures in the same compartment he traces " three kings, \nwith their Eastern crowns, their Eastern costumes, and the dove of amity en- \ntwining all of them as they superintend the spectacle, while the solemnity of the \nwhole is enhanced by the composure with which a Brehon sits by, in his turban \nof state, after reading from the Sana or Buddhist gospel the sentence of con- \ndemnation and of mysterious expiation in one and the same breath." f \n\n* See A Tour in Co7inaught, etc., by the author of Sketches in Ireland (Rev. C. Otway), Dublin, 1S39. \nf See The Round Towers of Ireland, etc., by Heniy O\'Bvien, Esq., A.B., London, 1S34, pp. 328-31. \n\n\n\n240 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nThe islands of Lough Corrib are so numerous that the people say they num- \nber one for every day in the year, and that an additional one rises on leap year. \nActually one hundred and forty-five, irrespective of rocks and shoals, have been \nnamed. The largest are those of Inchiquin, Inchmicatreer, Doorus, Inchangoill, \nCannaun, Lee\'s Island, and Illaunaconaun. Passing the narrow channel throuo-h \nwhich the lake steamer darns its tortuous course, amidst the intricate navigation \nof rocks, shoals, and breakers, and getting into the open space of the large or \n\n\n\n\nLough Mask ft om FaitlnU. \n\nmiddle lake, we are struck with the curious appearance of the islands, in groups \nof three and four, arranged in lines, as if marking the ancient boundaries of the \nlake beach. The west face of several of these small islands is truncated, the \nalluvial soil and gravel having been cut down by the winds and waves of thou- \nsands of years. \n\nInchangoill {Inis-an-ghoill-Craibhtheach, the island of the devout foreigner), \nwhich lifts its long green ridge-like back to the west of our course, is by far the \nmost interesting isle on the lake ; and indeed \xe2\x80\x94 " if we said one of the most re- \nmarkable spots on Irish ground, we should not fear to take up the gauntlet in its \nfavor, for picturesque scenery, grand mountain view, and existing historic monu- \nments.* Within an ancient ecclesiastical inclosure on this island are the ruins \nof two exceedingly ancient churches, both of the small Irish type, but of different \nstyles and dates. One of them Teamptdl Phaidrig, or St. Patrick\'s Church, is of \nthe Cyclopean order, built of massive uncut stone, and showing no signs of \nmortar except in the interior. Its internal dimensions are 29 feet 7 inches in \nthe clear, of which 17 feet 11 inches by 11 feet 10 inches form the nave: the \nchancel is 1 1 feet 7 inches by 8 feet 8 inches. There are no remains of any \n\n* See Wilde, pp. 12S-136, the indispensable nature of whose work compels its frequent use in this district. \n\n\n\nGAL WAY. \n\n\n\n241 \n\n\n\naltar, east window or side light. The square-headed doorway is of the true \n\nprimitive type, about 6 feet high and 2 feet wide, narrowing 2 inches towards the \n\nlintel, which is a massive stone 4 \n\nfeet 8 inches long. " That this \n\nchurch," says Dr. Petrie, " is of the \n\nage of St. Patrick, as it is believed \n\nin all the traditions of the country, \n\nand as its name would indicate, can, \n\nI think, scarcely admit of doubt." \n\nFrom it an ancient flagged way \n79 yards to the southeast leads \nto the second ruin, Teampull-na- \nNeave, The Church of the Saint. \nThis, a highly decorated structure, \nis evidently some centuries later \nthan the former. The beautiful \ndoorway, "a grand specimen of \n\n\n\n\nDoorway of St Patrick\'s Church \n\n\n\nearly Irish decorative art, is decidedly anterior to the date of the Anglo-Norman \nConquest." When O\'Donovan visited it in 1839, two of the concentric arches \nof the door had fallen. Fortunately, nearly every stone has been found, and it \n\nhas been skillfully restored by \nthe proprietor. Sir Benjamin Lee \nGuinness, Bart., who, at such \ngreat expenditure restored the \nCathedral of St. Patrick\'s in \nDublin. " The jambs are formed \nby columnar pilasters, which are \ncrowned by human-face capitals, \nfrom which springs the arch, \nthe middle portion of which is \ncarved into deep, horizontally \nprojecting chevrons, over which \nis a row of ten faces, each dif- \nfering from the other, and which \nmay, for aught we know, have \n\n\n\n\nDoorway of the Church of the Saint. \n\n\n\nbeen portraits. . . . The impost capitals are of exceeding interest, as they \nshow a form of beard-plaiting and knotted hair-work, which, though rarely \n16 \n\n\n\n242 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\n\nImpost Capital, Left. \n\n\n\nImpost Capital, Right \n\n\n\nrepresented in sculpture, were in all likelihood the Irish fashion of the day."" \nThe special interest of the locality centres, however, in a simple four-sided \nmonolith of hard grayish Silu- \nrian unhewn stone ; ten inches \nbroad at the base, and from \nfive to six at the top. It is \nnear St. Patrick\'s Church, and \nstands two feet four inches \nover the ground, as a head- \nstone, but it is doubted that \nthis was its original position. \nIt has the appearance of having \nbeen one of those corbels so \noften seen projecting in old \nIrish churches. It has two \ncrosses on each of three sides, and one on the fourth side, which are regarded by \nthe greatest antiquaries as examples of the most ancient carvings of that sacred \nemblem now to be found in the British Isles, or, if the catacombs of Rome are \nexcepted, anywhere in Europe. On the east face, as it now stands, there is an \ninscription in the Roman letters, t]\\Ms, Lia Licguaedoii Mace Linenuek, "The stone \nof Lugnaedon, son of Limenueh," who was \nthe sister of St. Patrick. \n\nMany places of interest can be visited by \nrailroad from Galway if time and inclination \npermit. Athenry, the most ancient town in \nthe county, formerly inclosed, with a castle \nand religious establishment, and a place of \nconsiderable importance, is now " little more \nthan a mass of hotels and ruins : " the latter \nof its baronial and ecclesiastical structures, \nthe former for the accommodation of the rail- \nroads which centre there. From the main \nroad to Dublin branches run north and south. \nBy the latter, and situated near the road lead- \nMo7iu?ncntal Stone, West. jj^g. ^^ Corofin, the lonely Kilmacduagh, with \nits church ruins, cemetery and round tower, the latter remarkable for being \nseveral \xe2\x80\x94 some say seventeen \xe2\x80\x94 feet out of perpendicular, can be reached ; and \n\n\n\n\n\nMo n u III e lit at \nStone, East. \n\n\n\nGAL WAY. \n\n\n\n243 \n\n\n\n""\'^^^^\xe2\x80\xa2 \n\n\n\n\nTuam Cathedral. \n\n\n\nat the next station the bright village of Gort, on Lough Outra ; and near it the \nbeautiful demesne and picturesque castle. It was the residence of Viscount \nGort, subsequently the property of Lord Gough, and now, according to a late \nedition of Fraser, " an affiliated branch of the Loretto Convent of Rathfarnham," \nnear Dublin. The demesne is well wooded, and the castle (p. 189) rises proudly \nover the beautiful lough from which it is named. The number of castellated \nhouses in Galway is something very remarkable : and their enumeration would \nfar exceed rational limits. Before the arrival of Henry II. there were not more \nthan four or five castles, except \n\nthose built in towns. In Henry _^ \n\nVIII.\'s reign there were up- " "~- \n\nwards of five hundred in the \ncounty ; and since that period, \nchiefly in the reigns of Mary \nand Elizabeth, they multiplied \'S - \nexceedingly. " The common, \nsmall, square castles were the \nresidences of English under- \ntakers ; and all those built \nbefore the reign of James I. were executed by English masons and on English \nplans." Wilde directs especial attention to Annakeen, one of these square keeps \non the lake shore. The quoins, doorways, and window openings, with the walls, \nboth within and without, are all formed of undressed stone. The outer walls are \nsix feet thick, and contain passages leading to the upper apartments and the \nparapet. Some of the arches of the windows and doors are circular, and others \npointed ; but all ingeniously constructed with stones to which a hammer or chisel \nwas never applied. There is not, perhaps, in the British Isles, a similar example \nof such admirably constructed masonry of its class and period. The only clue to \nthe date of its erection, is that Ulick de Burgo, progenitor of the Clan-Rickard, \nwas in 1324 called Ulicus de Anaghkeen, which would make it, at least five cen- \nturies and a half old. The parish of Killursa is now united with Cargin, adjoining \nit, and with Killannin, on the opposite shore in the Catholic Union of Headford, \nwhere the Rev. Peter Conway has built St. Mary\'s, one of the handsomest rural \nchapels in Ireland, at a cost of ^^4,000 sterling (over $20,000 specie), chiefly col- \nlected in the United States. \n\nEastward, Ballinasloe, Loughrea, Aughrim, Portumna, with its castle ruins, \non an inlet of Lough Deargr \xe2\x80\x94 the entrance to which from the Shannon on the \n\n\n\n244 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nnorthern end is impressively grand \xe2\x80\x94 may be visited with various degrees of in- \nterest. North from Athenry a branch leads to Tuam, a place of great ecclesi- \nastical antiquity, St. Jarlath \xe2\x80\x94 in whose honor the present college is named \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nhaving founded a religious house here in \nthe sixth century. The Market Cross, of \nthe twelfth century, is, in Petrie\'s opinion, \n" the finest monument of its class," as the \nCatholic Cathedral is among the noblest \nof modern religious edifices in Ireland. \nBut, the living glory of Tuam centers in \nthe venerable and illustrious prelate, pa- \ntriot, and minstrel who takes his title from \nit \xe2\x80\x94 John Mac Hale, Archbishop of Tuam, \notherwise, to the extent of civilization, \n" John of Tuam," \xe2\x80\x94 who has had unusual \nworldly honor crowning but not ending \na life of saintly fervor and intellectual \nenergy. Amidst a vast assemblage \xe2\x80\x94 em- \nbracing hierarchy, priests, and people \xe2\x80\x94 his \nstatue was unveiled in June, 1875, in com- \nmemoration of the fiftieth anniversary of \nhis reception of the crozier. \n\nAbout five miles west of Tuam, Knock- \nmagh, the great " hill of the plain " is \nconspicuous near the ancient battle-field of \nMoytura. On its summit is the Cairn \nwherein Cesarea, of the early Formorian \nColony, was interred. Tradition has in- \nvested Knockmagh with poetical interest, \nfor here Finvarra, "the Oberon of Irish \nsylvan mythology," holds his court. From \n\nStatue of yohn of Tjiam, , . r i;:: i Ut \xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\x9e A \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0\' \xe2\x96\xa0\' -^ this seat of elfin revelry we obtam a grand \n\npanorama : the great plain stretching beneath Knockroe ; the Abbey of Knock- \nmoy ; the town and towers of the Ford of the Kings ; Tuam of St. Jarlath ; the \nRound Tower of St. Bennan, the ruins of the keeps and castles of the De Burgos ; \nthe ships riding in Galway Bay ; still beyond, the Clare Mountains ; Corrib and \nits isles ; and in the western background the ever-picturesque Connemara Alps. \n\n\n\n\nMEATH. \n\n\n\n\nTrim, from over tlic Boyne \n\n\n\nAlthough the County \nMeath is not wanting in scenes \nof picturesque beauty\xe2\x80\x94 espe- \ncially such as are rendered at- \ntractive by richness of pastoral \naspect, or sweetly graduating \ncombinations of river views \n\n\n\nwith charming rural accessories, frequently enhanced by the presence of fine castles \nand grand ruins \xe2\x80\x94 yet the paramount interest of the locality is in the history of \nwhich it has been the theater, and in the antiquities of which it is the depository. \nThe seat of the ancient supreme monarchy, watered by the river which beheld the \n\n245 \n\n\n\n246 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\navatar of Christianity in Ireland in the fifth, and the extinction of Irish miUtary \npower in the country in the end of the seventeenth century, and the scene of the \ngreatest peace effort at national revolution the world has ever beheld at Tara in \n1843, the interest attaching to Meath from almost prehistoric times to our own \nday cannot be over-estimated by any antiquarian or historical student. Notwith- \nstanding these claims on the attention of cultivated people it is astonishing what \nlittle recognition the Boyne and its banks, until recently, won from travel-writers. \nPetrie first drew attention to the beauties of the river, and thus incidentally to \nthe region through which it runs, in the Diiblin Penny Joiirnal. What he says \nof a portion, may be adopted as a graphic description of the river and its surround- \nings in general. " It is of a character as beautiful as could be found anywhere, \nor even be imagined. Scenery of this class, of equal richness, may be often found \nin England, but we do not know of any river\'s course of the same length in which \nnatural beauty so happily combines, or in which so many interesting memorials \nof past ages could be found. Scattered in rich profusion along the banks of this \nbeautiful river, we find the noblest monuments of the various races of men who \nhave had sway in Ireland. It is on its luxuriant banks, amid so many memorials \nof past ages, that the history of our country, as traced in its monuments, could be \nbest studied." \n\nSince Petrie\'s brief but appreciative paper, justice has been done to " the \npleasant Boyne," and to Meath ; first by Sir William R. Wilde in a delightfully \ndescriptive and historical volume,* and more recently by Dean Cogan in an \nelaborate work on the Diocese of Meath.f Winding through the heart of the \nancient kingdom of Meath, villages, towns, and hamlets rise on the banks of the \nBoyne ; enterprise has turned its power to account, and mills and factories draw \nanimation from its waters. Toward its center, where the banks become more \nelevated, and the outline more picturesque, the scenery recalls to mind that on \nthe Rhine between Cologne and Mayence. The summits of many of these \nsloping and verdant banks are crowned by castle ruins, towers, feudal halls, \nbaronial keeps, and churches, noble in their decay, and forming, as they stand out \nagainst the azure sky, groups and scenes as remarkable as any to be found in the \nland. Interspersed apiong them are ancient stone circles, cromlechs, and mounds \nraised by the pagan colonists or natives. Scarcely a ford on this river but was \n\n\n\n* The Beauties of the Boyne, and its Tributary, the Blaekwater, by William R. WiKle. second edition, enlarged, \nDublin, 1850. \n\nf The Diocese of Meath, Ancient and Modern, by the Rev. A. Cogan, Dean of the Diocesan Seminary, Navan, and \nArchivist of the Diocese of Meath, 3 vols., Dublin, 1862-1870. \n\n\n\nME A TH. 247 \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0disputed in days gone by ; every pass was a Thermopylse ; the bardic annals teem \nwith descriptions of the battles fought here ; fairy lore sings from its current, \nand every green knoll by it has a legend. \n\nThe plains of Meath appear to have been the first cultivated in Ireland ; and \nit is, as Wilde suggests, more than probable that one of the earliest waves of \npopulation which reached Ireland passed up the Boyne, that the Aborigines \nsettled amidst its richly wooded hills and deep alluvial plains ; and have \nleft their bones in the numerous barrows and tumuli still remaining upon its \nshores. Beyond all question, the earliest undoubted kings of Erin reigned upon \nits banks, where also the earliest laws were framed, the earliest poems sung, and \nthe most profound Druidical mysteries celebrated. Here stood the palace of \nTara, long the seat of royalty, whither resorted the kings, princes, and chieftains, \nthe bards, Druids, and brehons of the various kingdoms of Ireland. Here also, \nstood the royal pagan ce.me.t&ry oi Bi\'-ttgh-na-Boinne, "the town or fort of the \nBoyne," where the great princes of the Tuatha de Danann race were buried. New \nGrange is still, like the pyramids of Egypt, the wonder and puzzle of the anti- \nquary. St. Patrick raised the cross at Slane, and his first great exhortations and \nconversions were made on the delightful and fertile banks (" pulcherrimum et \nfertilem," as Ussher has it) of the Boyne. The Danish and Norsemen invaders \nentered on its waters ; and the earliest recorded abodes of learning, as well as the \nmost renowned schools of Christian philosophy, were seated by its margin ; the \nruins of abbeys, priories, convents, churches, and oratories demonstrating the \nample provision made for charity, education, and religion. Parliaments and coun- \ncils were held in its castles, and kingdoms \xe2\x80\x94 in battles fought by kings \xe2\x80\x94 were lost \nand won by the Boyne\'s " ill-fated river." \n\nThese are not "the fanciful speculations of the enthusiastic but imaginary \nwriters of the last century ; " but the confirmed truths of history, for, as Wilde \nadds, " Many of the historic annals which relate these circumstances, formerly \ndifficult of access, and known or capable of being understood but by a few, have \nbeen recently published in the English tongue, and have satisfied even the most \nincredulous as to their antiquity and authenticity." \n\nTuathal Teaclitmar \xe2\x80\x94 the legitimate or acceptable \xe2\x80\x94 king of Ireland from a.d. \n130 to 160, established the ancient kingdom or principality of Meath, by taking \nportions of the surrounding kingdoms as mensal lands for the support of the \nsupreme monarchy. It is supposed by some that its name was derived from this \ncircumstance of being composed of necks of land, the Irish word Meidhe signify- \ning a neck ; some again, claim that its position in the midst of the other kingdoms \n\n\n\n248 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nsuggested the name from Media ; while others derive it from Midhe, chief Druid\' \nto Nemedius, the leader of the second colony of Celto-Scythians who came to \nIreland from the Euxine more than fourteen centuries before Christ, and by whom \nthe first sacred fire was lit in Ireland at the hill of Usneach. The great plain of \nMeath was known as Magh Breagh \xe2\x80\x94 the Magnificent Plain ; Latinized Bregia ; \nand Campus Brigantmm, the plain of the Brigantes, from having been possessed \n\n\n\n\nTrim Castle. \n\nby the Brigantes, who were called by the Irish Clanna Brcogain* Aldfrid, sub- \nsequently king of the Northumbrian Saxons, who was educated in Ireland, has left \nus in his Itinerary through that country, a poem in the Irish language still extant,, \nhis impressions of Meath in the seventh century : f \n\n" I found in Meath\'s fair principality, \nVirtue, vigor, and hospitality; \nCandor; joyfulness, bravery, purity, \nIreland\'s bulwark and security." \n\nThe ancient monarchs had four royal palaces in Meath \xe2\x80\x94 at Tara, Teltown,. \nTlachtga, and Usneach \xe2\x80\x94 which originally extended from Dublin to the Shannon, \nand from the center of Ireland to the sea. After the Ansflo-Norman invasion \n\n\n\n* See Wilde ; Cogan ; O\'Conor, Rcritm. Hiber. Scrip. Vet. ; Dr. MacDermott, Ainiota. Four Masters. \nt See Bede\'s Life of .St. Cuthbert ; I.ingard\'s England, vol. i., chap. 3. \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n249 \n\n\n\nw. \n\n\n\n/1 \n\n\n\nHenry II. conferred the land of Meath on Hugh de Lacy, and conveyed to him \nby charter "all the liberties and free customs " of the same " in wood and plain, \nin meadows and pastures, in waters and mills, in warrens and ponds, in fishings \nand huntings, in ways and paths, in sea-ports and all other places and things ap- \npertaining," for the " service \nof fifty knights." This grant \nwas confirmed to Walter, \nthe son of Hugh, by King \nJohn, who subsequently, in \n1 2 10, formed the kingdom \ninto a county and united it \nin civilibus to the province \nof Leinster. By statute \nduring the reigns of Henry \nVIII., Mary, and Elizabeth, \nrespectively, Westmeath, \nKing\'s County, and the \nCounty Longford, were \nformed from the ancient \nroyal territory ; with which \nthe present Diocese of \nMeath, the largest in Ire- \nland, is almost co-extensive. \nWhen Hugo de Lacy \nheld Meath as lord palatine \n" in as full and ample manner \nas Murchard O\'Melaghlin \n(the dispossessed Irish king) \nheld it, or any other person \nbefore him," he in turn made \n\nextensive grants of land to \xe2\x80\xa2 interior of Trim Castle. \n\nhis chief followers.* These supplanted the native chiefs, who with few exceptions \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nlAy \n\n\n\n\n\n\nXT \n\n\n\n1:>^" \n\n\n\n->} \n\n\n\n\n\n\n^t1- \n\n\n\n\' 7/J \n\n\n\n* Gilbert de Angulo, or Nangle, and his son Jocelyn, Hugh Tyrrell, Robert de I.acy, Willi, m de Missett, Adam \nde Feipo or Phepoe, William Pettit, Richard Tuite Jeffrey de Constantine, Gilbert de Nugent, and his brother Richard \nde la Chappelle, Hugh de Hose (Ilussey), Richard and Thomas Fleming, Gilbert Fitz-Thomas, Myler Fitz-Henry, Adam \nDollard. The new possessors were called barons, and their possessions baronies, a name which afterward became the \ngeneral designation of great divisions of counties. \n\n\n\n250 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nwere of the race of the southern Hy Nialls. Naturally, a continuous condition of \nwarfare existed for long years between the dispossessed king and chiefs and the \nnew barons in possession and their respective descendants. Meath was the prin- \ncipal part of the " English Pale," and numerous great castles and strongholds \nwere erected for its defense against the incursions of the Irish. After having \nplayed a remarkable part in the Anglo-Norman invasion, and been chief governor \nof Ireland, Hugh de Lacy was beheaded by a dexterous Irish axman, while \n\nviewing the completion of one of these cas- \ntles at Durrow, in the present County of \nWestmeath. \n\nIf the pedestrian tourist enters Meath by \nthe banks of the Boyne on the southwest, the \nfirst place of historic interest he will meet is \nClonard, which had great celebrity in ancient \ndays, and was the scene of a disastrous fight in \n1798, when the Wexford and Wicklow patriots, \nunder Anthony Perry and Father Kearns, \nintending to push on to Athlone, suffered a \nsevere repulse here. Saint Finian founded \nClonard in the first quarter of the sixth century, \nand its great schools \xe2\x80\x94 to the learning and hospitality of which the Venerable Bede \nbears testimony \xe2\x80\x94 for centuries rivaled those of Armagh, Bangor, Clonmacnoise, \nand Lismore. The buildings, monastic and scholastic, and even the later military \nones \xe2\x80\x94 of which descriptions are on record \xe2\x80\x94 are untraceable. A pagan tumulus \xe2\x80\x94 \n433 feet in circumference at the base, and 50 feet high, remains ; but the Christian \ntemples are swept away \xe2\x80\x94 being represented only by three stones, the principal of \nwhich is a fine baptismal font, three feet high, of very hard gray limestone ; one of \nthe finest and perhaps the oldest in Ireland. The pedestal is highly decorated with \nfigures and foliage. The basin is octagonal, two feet and one inch in diameter \nexternally, and the bowl, very deep, twenty inches across. The sculptures on \nthe panels represent the Flight into Egypt, the Baptism in the Jordan, St. Peter, \nSt. Finian, and figures of Augustinian monks ; which show that it was carved \nsince the coming of De Lacy, on the rebuilding of the monastery inn 75. \n\nTrim (the ancient Ath-Truim, the ford of the Elder Trees), the assize town \nof Meath, is about ten miles from Clonard, but the approach by this route does \nnot present the glorious ruins which crowd this historic locality \xe2\x80\x94 extending over \na mile \xe2\x80\x94 in the attractive or picturesque aspect as seen from the eastern side of the \n\n\n\n\nAncient Font of Clonard. \n\n\n\nMEA TH. \n\n\n\n251 \n\n\n\n\n\nSmrlogstown Castle. \n\n\n\nBoyne. To see Trim to advantage in a pictorial sense it must be approached by \n\nthe Blackbull road from Dublin. By this latter route we strike the Boyne within \n\ntwo miles of Trim. Standing by the road on the river \n\nbank, and commanding an extensive prospect is one of \n\nthe strongest-built watch-towers of the Pale, Scurlogs- \n\ntown Castle, built in 1180 by William de Scurlog, one \n\nof the Anglo-Norman fiefs. The outward wall is still \n\nperfect, as are some of its \nstone floors. It is a type of \nseveral castles in this re- \ngion, consisting of a square \nkeep with round towers \nat the diagonal corners ; \nwhich have circular stair- \nways and are entered from \n\neach floor. From this point the scenery becomes of \ngreat interest. The remains of St. John\'s Priory and \ncastellated buildings at the bridge of Newtown ; the \nstately abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul, a little farther \non, raising aloft its tall, light and ivy-mantled win- \ndows ; the neighboring chapel with its sculptured \ntombs and tablets ; the green lawns, through which \nthe Boyne winds between that and Trim, the silver \nstream itself, gliding smoothly on ; the gray massive \ntowers of King John\'s Castle, with its outward walls \nZ =, and barbican, gates, towers and \n\n\n\nbastions, fosse, moat and \nchapel ; the portions of the \ntown wall, the remains of the \nyellow steeple, \xe2\x80\x94 all these pictu- \nresque objects, with the ancient \nchurch tower, the town itself, \nthe Wellington Monument, and \nthe modern public buildings, \nform a combination of scenery \n\n\n\nWellington Monument, Trim. \n\n\n\nand an architectural diorama of a very striking character. The locality and pros-, \npect has the additional charm, as Wilde says, of ever forming new combinations, \n\n\n\n252 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nfresh groups of beauty singly or collectively, in all the varying aspects caused \nby atmospheric changes ; in sunshine playing upon these massive walls ; with the \nheavens overcast and the drifting shower, half revealing some of these turrets and \ngables ; the calm subdued light of evening softening every object in the land- \nscape, or the silver moontide throwing every recess and deep cathedral niche into \nshadow. Equally true is it, that among the beauties of the ruins of Trim, are the \ntableaux which each group form when seen from one of the others ; thus appear \n\n\n\n\nNewtown Bridge, and St. Johiis Priory. \n\n\n\nthe castle and the yellow steeple with the town, when framed in the beautiful \ngothic window of Newtown Abbey ; thus may Newtown or the j^ellow steeple be \nseen from the interior of the castle. \n\nAs may be surmised, Trim is a place of great antiquity and celebrity. Accord- \ning to the Four Masters, it was founded by St. Patrick in a.d. 432, having been \ngranted to him by Fedhlim, the son of King Laoghaire. St. Loman, who ac- \ncompanied St. Patrick to Ireland, was its first bishop, and it possessed a monastic \nschool of the first class. It became one of the great strongholds of the Pale, and \nparliaments were frequently held in its castles or monastic halls. \n\nThe Castle of Trim is justly esteemed the finest specimen of Anglo-Norman \nmilitary architecture in Ireland, taking rank with those of Conway and Carnarvon. \nIt stands on a sloping mound on the right bank of the Boyne, and even in decay \nis a noble and commanding pile. It occupied an area of four acres. The central \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n253 \n\n\n\nkeep or donjon is rectangular, of sixty feet high, with square towers abutting \nfrom each side, presenting a building of twenty sides. A turret sixteen feet high \nrests upon each angle of the main building. The walls are of a solid thickness of \nthirteen feet. The keep is surrounded by a wall of immense height and thickness, \nstrengthened with fifteen flanking towers, furnished with gates and barbicans, each \nnearly as large as an ordinary castle. Within the walls on the river side are the \nremains of a chapel ; adjoining which are the remains of a tower supposed to have \nbeen the mint. The interior of the keep was bisected by a central wall, from \n\n\n\n\nAbbey of St. Peter and St. Paul. \n\nwhich sprung vaults of stone, supporting the floors of six stories. Wakeman has \nmade the latest examination of this great structure, and says, " there were several \ngarde-rQbes \xe2\x80\x94 or as we would now say \xe2\x80\x94 water-closets, in the upper chambers." \nThe exterior is in excellent preservation, excepting the tower facing the town \ngate, which is said to have been destroyed by Cromwell\'s cannon. It was sur- \nrounded, naturally and artificially, by water. \n\nThe first military castle was erected here by Hugo de Lacy In 11 73. In his \nabsence this was fired by his deputy Tyrrell, who was too weak to hold it against \nKing Roderick O\'Conor, and his following led by O\'Flaherty, O\'Kelly, O\'Dowd, \nO\'Shaughnessy, and others. Having gained his object, the king retired to Con- \nnaught, and Tyrrell set about re-edifying the castle before De Lacy\'s return. King \nJohn, "lord of Ireland," was at Trim in July, 1210, and is supposed to have resided \nin the castle. Wilde does not find positive evidence on the point ; although the \n\n\n\n254 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\npresent castle \xe2\x80\x94 which was erected ten years later by Richard Peppard, lord of \nTabor \xe2\x80\x94 is popularly known by his name. Some years ago a signet-ring bearing \na crown and the Plantagenet\'s family device was found in the ruin of one of the \ntowers, and believed to be a veritable relic of John. His writs are dated "apud \npratum subtus Trim," in the meadow near Trim, now called the King\'s Park. \n\nSir Geoffrey de Geneville, or de Joinville, a nobleman of Champagne, who \nhad married Maud de Lacy, was appointed lord justice of Ireland in 1273, after \nhis return from the Crusades; and in 1308 resigned the lordship of Meath to his \ngrand-daughter Joan ; whose husband, Roger de Mortimer, became a monk in the \nDominican Abbey of Trim, where he died in 13 14. More than a hundred years \nafter, in 1422, Edward Mortimer, fifth earl of March and Ulster, and lord lieu- \ntenant of -Ireland, died here. Richard II., on a hostile mission in Ireland in 1399, \nwas startled by the news of Henry of Lancaster\'s arrival and progress in England, \nand immediately imprisoned in this castle of Trim the sons of the dukes of Glou- \ncester and Lancaster, the latter being no less a character than Pistol\'s " imp of \nfame," who some fifteen years later was the royal hero of Agincourt. Richard \ncould not dream he was imprisoning the heir of England, or the words of the \nprince, when king, to Chief Justice Gascoigne, might have been applicable : \n\n" How might a prince of my great hopes forget \nSo great indignities you laid upon me ? \nWhat ! rate, rebuke, and roughly send to prison \nThe immediate heir of England 1 was this easy ? \nMay this be wash\'d in Lethe, and forgotten ? " * \n\nHow few looking on the venerable ruins, " catch," says Wakeman, " the classic \nassociations, that within its walls that prince was imprisoned before his accession \nto the British throne," or, indeed, are aware that "our forefathers of the Pale"\' \nbeheld \n\n" Young Harry \xe2\x80\x94 with his beaver on, \n\nHis cuisses on his thighs, gallantly arm\'d \xe2\x80\x94 \nRise from the ground like feather\'d Mercury, \n\n\n\nTo turn and wind a fiery Pegasus "f \n\nover the plains of royal Meath. From the beginning of the fifteenth to the middle \nof the following century several parliaments were held in Trim : among the enact- \nments of 1446 is that the " English marchours " should " not wear their beards \nafter the Irish fashion, nor the Irish use shirts colored with saffron." Richard, \n\n* Shakspere, Henry IV., Fart Second. \\ Hcniy IV., Part First. \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n255 \n\n\n\nDuke of York (father of Edward IV. and Richard III.), while lord lieutenant, \ndwelt here in 1449. In 1460 by the king\'s command a mint was set up in the \ncastle, where silver and brass money was coined bearing the words Villa de \nTrymme on the reverse; and in 1495 the lordship of Trim " with all its liberties" \nwas annexed to the crown. In 1642, it was held by the confederate Catholics, \nand taken by Sir Charles Coote, who being surprised at _break of the following \n\n\n\n\nBective Abbey. \n\nday by the Irish, drove off the assailants, but lost his life. Seven years later it \nsurrendered to Cromwell, since which time town and castle disappear from the \npages of active history. The visitor is still enabled by winding stairways to reach \nthe topmost turrets of the castle, from which an extensive and noble view is ob- \ntained. Standing on this historic pile the eye ranges over many miles of the vast \nand fertile plains of Meath, with the Boyne sweeping through them ; and various \ngroups of ruins immediately beneath and around, with the Hill of Tara to the \neast. The Nangles and Talbots had castles also at Trim \xe2\x80\x94 they stand behind the \nmodern town on the north side of the river. That of the latter was for years \nused as the diocesan school of Meath, and acquired modern celebrity in conse- \nquence of the attendance there of young Arthur Wesley, afterward the Duke of \nWellington. In it was also educated, for a time, the eminent astronomer royal, \nSir William Rowan Hamilton, another Irishman. Talbot Castle was built by Sir \n\n\n\n^56 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nJohn Talbot \xe2\x80\x94 " the Frenchman\'s only scourge " \xe2\x80\x94 whose titles are given with \nsuch jDomp of circumstance by Shakspere.* \n\nThe monastic remains in and about Trim are numerous and striking. Many \nare indicated only by ivied walls, but several are beautiful and impressive. The \n\n\n\n\nold church, part of which is used for the Anglican service, is curious. The belfry \nis unimpaired, and the architecture, which is of the thirteenth century, indicates \nthat the building was not altogether devoted to religious worship. About a \nmile below Trim, within a magnificent sweep of the river and extending on both \n\n\n\n* Sir IVilliam Lucy (visiting the camp of Charles the Daupliin and La Piuelle, Joan of Arc, outside of Bordeaux) : \n" Where is the great Alcides of the field, \nValiant lord Talbot, earl of Shrewsbury , \nCreated for his rare success in arms. \nGreat earl of Washford, Waterford and Valence ; \nLord Talbot of Goodrig and Urchinfield, \nLord Strange of Blackmere, lord Verdun of Alton, \nLord Cromwell of Wingfield, lord Furnival of Sheffield, \nThe thrice victorious lord of Falconbridge ; \nKnight of the noble order of Saint George, \nWorthy Saint Michael, and the golden fleece ; \nGreat mareshal to Henry the Sixth, \nOf all his wars within the realm of France? \nLa Pttcelk. Here is a silly stately style indeed ! " \n\nKing Henry VL., Part First. \nThe names of the leading personages connected with this castle of Trim, recall many passages in the great drama- \ntist. In addition to those referred to, the position and importance of the De Lacys is indicated by Jack Cade (Henry VI., \nPart Second), when, addressing the mob at BlacUhealh and giving himself princely descent and noble connections, he said \nhis father was " a Mortimer," his mother " a Plantagenet," and " my wife descended of the Lacies." \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\na? VT \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTHE BOYNE AND PLAIN OF MEATH. \n\n\n\n258 \n\n\n\nPIC TURESQ UE I RE LA ND. \n\n\n\n\nAthlumnty Castle \n\n\n\nsides of the bridge of Newtown, are a remarkable group of ruins ; the principal \nof which are the monastery, and the cathedral or abbey of St. Peter and St. Paul. \nThe latter was founded in 1206, by Simon de Rochfort, as an abbey of Canons \nRegular of the order of St. Victor. De Rochfort seems to have had the full sup- \nport of the De Lacys ; and to have wielded it with unbounded sway. He abolished \nseveral minor bishoprics, had himself created sole bishop of Meath, and transfer- \nring the episcopal chair from Clonard, erected the abbey into a cathedral. It is an \nearly and excellent specimen of the light-pointed Gothic. The portions of the \n\nsouthern wall, and of the eastern and west- \nern ends, which still remain, are luxuriantly \nmantled with ivy. In the walls of a small \nparish church adjoining is the sculptured \ntomb of one of the mitered ecclesiastics, \nbesides portions of exquisitely carved im- \nposts, capitals, moldings, and other frag- \nments of the abbey. Close by are the \nroofless walls of the ancient parish church, \nwhich contain an interesting altar-tomb of \nSir Lucas Dillon, chief baron of the exchequer under Elizabeth, son of Sir \nRobert, attorney general to Henry VIII., who bestowed upon him valuable church \nlands at the dissolution of the monasteries. Adjoining the bridge, on the south- \nern side of the river, are the remains of a massive keep, with square towers at two \nof its angles. From it a range of buildings extends lower down to the river, along \nthe water\'s edge, to a smaller tower, near which is the eastern gable of a small \nchapel with a fine triple window. At a short distance by the roadside is a light \ncircular turret, which probably commanded the gate, as it did one of the ap- \nproaches to Trim. Within the walls of this extensive inclosure are also the \nremains of the Hospital or Priory of St. John the Baptist, of the thirteenth cen- \ntury, for friars of the order of Crouched Friars, or Cross-bearers, a fraternity \nthat wore a cross embroidered on their habits, and devoted themselves to the \nredemption of Christian captives. \n\nProceeding down by the river, and on the left bank, three miles east of Trim, \nare the ruins of the great Cistercian Monastery at Bective. This home was- \nfounded by Murchard O\'Melaghlin, king of Meath, some twenty years before \nthe Norman incursion. Its possessions were princely, and its lord-abbot sat as a \nspiritual peer in the parliaments of the Pale. The shrines and altar-plate of Bec- \ntive were among the first in Ireland to attract the cupidity of Henry VIII. It is \n\n\n\nMEA TH. \n\n\n\n259 \n\n\n\na most picturesque ruin, and we cannot do better than see it through the eyes \nof Wilde. "The tints, which usually play upon the walls of Bective, are of a \nricher and more varying hue than we have ever seen elsewhere. The square gray \ntowers, gables and chimneys, rendered in some parts perfectly golden by the most \nbrilliant orange and yellow lichens, and, in parts festooned with the dark-green \ndrapery of the Irish ivy, rising out of the light feathery foliage of a plantation \nof larch, and standing in the midst of a field of corn, which stretches between the \nruins and the blue waters of the Boyne, form, upon a summer evening, one of the \nmost lovely objects in nature." Beneath the arch, on the left of our illustration, \naccording to tradition, is buried the body of Hugh de Lacy. The ruins com- \nbine a union of ecclesiastical with military and domestic architecture. Of the \nchurch, there are scarcely any remains. The domestic buildings are of a later \ncharacter than the tower and other portions. In general arrangement, Bective \ndiffers from every other monastic structure in the kingdom, being, in fact, a mo- \nnastic castle, and must have been, previous to the use of artillery, a place of great \nstrength. \n\nThe Boyne sweeps gracefully from Bective to Navan, the first borough estab- \nlished by the invaders in this part of the country. It is situated on the conflu- \nence of the Blackwater and the Boyne, in the center of some of the richest lands \nin Ireland. It is an irregularly built but thriving town. Approaching it, we \nbehold Athlumney Castle, which rises on a commanding eminence, the base of \nwhich is swept by the river. Little is known of this castle but the sacrifice of its \nlast lord. Sir Launcelot Dowdall, which is sadly and heroically interesting. He was \nan adherent of the Stuarts, and on hearing the result of the battle of the Boyne, \ndeclared that William of Orange should never rest under his ancestral roof. At \nnight-fall, Dowdall set fire to his home, and, crossing the river, sat down upon \nthe opposite bank, from which, upon that calm summer night, he beheld the floors \nand rafters of his noble mansion blaze and crash through the ruins. The estate \nwas confiscated in 1 700. Before viewing the several interesting remains in the \nneighborhood, we will, as it is easily accessible from this point, visit that one \nlocality which, perhaps, is more universally associated with the name and fame of \nIreland than any other, the site of Tara\'s Halls, with the memory of which the \ngenius of Moore has made every civilized being acquainted. The mere name of \nTara conjures up a pageantry of historical and poetical associations, in the details \nof which we cannot indulge. We will, however, taking Petrie as guide, and O\'Don- \novan, Wilde, and Wakeman as companions, present such facts as will tend to \npreserve the memory of the hallowed spot. \n\n\n\n\n26o PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nTara Hill is about four miles from Navan. For more than 1,300 years this \ncelebrated seat of the Irish kings has been abandoned, yet the remains of the \nillustrious city are traceable to-day, not in "cloud-capped towers," but in such \nmonuments as it was the custom of the Celtic people to erect. Casual visitors \nspend an hour at Tara, book in hand, perhaps, and finding nothing but a collec- \ntion of earthern mounds and grassy undulations, a few time-worn stones and an \nold church-yard on the top of a hill, are none the wiser. To understand the book \nand to intelligently observe what is before us, requires, as \nWilde says, a " certain schooling in the investigation of the \nsources of history, an eye practiced to the forms of ancient \nremains, and an ear attuned to the language of archaeology." \nUp to a recent period the names of the different raths, \nforts, pillar-stones, and other monuments on Tara appeared \nto have been irretrievably lost. Thanks, however, to the \nlearning and zeal of Petrie and O\'Donovan, there is scarcely \n\' a remarkable object upon the hill the name and history of \nPillar-Stone on the Hill which have HOt been discovered. Among the precious manu- \nscripts preserved in the Library of Trinity College, Dublin, \noccurs one which, before Petrie\'s timie, had excited little attention. This venera- \nble document, written in Irish, purports to be a transcript of a manuscript, which \nthere is reason to believe was composed at a time when there was no mystery \nabout the then existing remains at Tara. The subject is a topographical descrip- \ntion of the Hill, and the manuscript is accompanied by a map, whereupon a \nvariety of monuments, forts, roads, wells, pillar-stones, etc., are laid down and \nnamed. Petrie, appreciating the importance of this unique specimen of " field \nwork," compared the monuments as recorded in the manuscript and its drawings \nwith the remains on Tara as they existed (some forty-five years ago). The result \nwas startling. The ancient descriptions corresponded with an actual survey of the \nlocality then being made under the auspices of the Royal Engineers. O\'Donovan\'s \naid was invaluable in translating obscure terms in the manuscript. Sir Thomas \nLarcom, then superintendent of the Ordnance Survey in Ireland, afforded every \nassistance. Under the immediate direction of this officer, nothing appears to \nhave been overlooked ; and even were Tara to be plowed up, and all its grassy \nmounds and historic landmarks obliterated, the maps of the Ordnance Survey \nwould preserve a faithful record of the Tara of the nineteenth century. \n\nAt the cross-roads of Castleton the ascent of the hill is commenced by a \nnarrow, very steep, and paved road. This, according to the early topographical \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n261 \n\n\n\nauthority, was the \ngreat northern road \nto Ulster, known as \n"the Slope of the \nChariots," Sliglie Fan \nna g - Carbad. Fol- \nlowing this ancient \nway the " Great Ban- \nqueting Hall," Teach \nMiod hchuar ta, is \nreached. This is a \ndeep excavation, with \nparallel sides running \nnorth and south, 360 \nfeet long and 40 wide, \nand having gaps or \nopenings which corre- \nspond with the ancient \ndoorways which led \ninto the great hall, \n" The House of a \nThousand Soldiers," \nwhere the Feis Teatn- \nrach, or " Solemn As- \nsembly of Tara," was \nheld. Here, says \nWilde, sat kings with \ngolden crowns upon \ntheir heads, warriors \nwith brazen swords \nin their hands, bards \nand minstrels with \ntheir harps, gray- \nbearded o 1 1 a m h s, \nDruids with their oak- \nleaf crowns, learned \nhistorians, wise \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n^"C- \n\n\n\nAbbey of Slane. \n\n\n\n262 \n\n\n\nPIC TURESQ I \'E IRE LA ND. \n\n\n\nbrehons, subtle lawyers, the physicians, the smiths, artificers, charioteers, hunts- \nmen, architects, the chess-players, and cup-bearers, together with crowds of ser- \nvants and retainers, whose places are all specified in the ancient annals. No \ndoubt a roofed oaken structure was supported by the ramparts of earth which \nform the sides of the Hall of Tara ; as was the custom among Celtic tribes, such \nas the Gauls, Britons, and Scots, where wood was available and stone scarce. It \nis of great importance to bear in mind that the old plan of this famous apartment, \nas shown in the manuscript, corresponds almost exactly with the present remains, \neven to the number of the side entrances. Adjoining this spot, are two very fine \nand still deep mounds, named respectively, Rath Caelchon, and Rath Grainne ; \nthe latter named after, as it was, no doubt, occupied by the wife of Fionn Mac \nCumhal : a fort and well, the latter called Tobcr Fionn (Fionn\'s Well), are in the \nneighborhood. \n\nThe " Rath of the Synod," Rat h-na-Scanad/i, also called the king\'s chair, oc- \ncupies the top of the hill, and consists of a double wall of circumvallation. It is \nthe highest ground of Tara, standing 512 feet above \nsea-level ; and upon this spot it is probable some of the \nearly Christian synods of Erin were held. Some years \nago, two splendid gold torques, the finest ever discov- \nered in Europe, were found on the side of this hill. \n\nAlmost immediately in connection with this inter- \nesting rath is the modern, and perhaps very ancient, \ncemetery of Tara. The church is nearly altogether a \nrecent structure ; but its beautiful traceried eastern win- \ndow belonged to an older edifice. In the same vicinity \nare two other relics, apparently of a monumental char- \nacter, and which are supposed to be two druidical \nstones called Bloc and Bhiicni, " which used to open \nout to admit the chariot of the king at his coronation ! " \nThe most remarkable of the works on the hill is Rath-na-Righ, or " the king\'s \nrath." This was, no doubt, the citadel. It is an oval inclosure measuring 280 \nyards in its longest dimensions. The wall is of stone, though so covered with \nsod that it presents the appearance of a low earthen rampart. At one or two \npoints, however, its true character Is apparent. Within this oval are contained \nseveral very important raths, of which the Forradh (the derivation of this title \nwe believe has not been ascertained) is the most striking, partly from its great \nextent, and partly that its central mound is defended by a triple circumvallation. \n\n\n\n\nDoovway, Hermitage of \nSt. Ere. \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n263 \n\n\n\n\nChou -licit, Canmstoiijn \n\n\n\nAnother Is known as the Teach Cormaic, or " the House of Cormac ; " not far \nfrom which, toward the northern side of the inclosure, is " the Mound of the \nHostages," D^m^ha-na-N giall, so named in memory of the hostages which King \nCormac took from the different provinces. " In the center \nof the internal mound of the Forradh," writes Sir W. \nWilde, " stands an upright stele, or circular pillar-stone, \nwhich was formerly on the top of the Mound of the Hos- \ntages, but was removed to this spot in the year 1 798, and \nerected as a headstone to the grave of thirty-seven of the ^\\ \ninsurgents who were killed in a skirmish with the military \nin this neighborhood. Dr. Petrie supposes this stone to \nbe the celebrated \' Lia Fail\' on which the early Irish \nkings were crowned, and which has been generally believed \nto have been carried to Scotland for the coronation of \nFergus Mac Eark, and afterward removed by Edward I. from Scone to West- \nminster Abbey. The Lia Fail was the stone so famed in ancient history, which \nwas said to have roared beneath the Irish kings at the time of their inauguration. \nWe fully acknowledge the force of the reasoning of Dr. Petrie on this subject, \nand admit the validity of his arguments, with respect to the history of the Stone \n__ of Destiny, and we must believe that it is not now in \n\nWestminster Abbey ; but at the sa\'me time we are not \nby any means convinced that this romid pillar-stone now \nplaced over the \' Croppies\' grave\' is the stone. Per- \nhaps \\kv& flat sctdpttired stone, in the grave-yard, latterly \ncalled the cross of St. Adamnan, may have been it : \nan opinion held by O\' Donovan." Wakeman believes \nwith Dr. Petrie that the " Croppies\' stone " at Tara is \nthe veritable Lia Fail. The writer of the old manu- \nscript so often referred to, and so wonderfully correct \nin other respects, appears to have had no doubt of the \nstone being at Tara in his day. He even lays down \nits position on the hill ; and where he says it stood, \nwe find the extraordinary relic which now marks the \n" Croppies\' grave " in the Forradh did actually stand. \n\nUpon the southern slope of the hill is Rath Laoghaire, or "the Rath of \nLaoghaire," or Lowry, the king of Tara, at the time of St. Patrick\'s arrival ; who \nwas buried in a standing position in it ; and at a quarter of a mile in the same \n\n\n\n\nFont at Kilcarn. \n\n\n\n264 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nCarvings on the Font of Kilcarn. \n\n\n\ndirection, among some trees crowning an adjoining elevation, is the great fort \ncalled the rath of Queen Meve. \n\nBeautiful views of the great plains from Trim to the wooded heights of Slane, \nand by the course of the Blackwater to the hill of Telltown, to Kells and the \n\nMountains of Cavan are ob- \ntained from the pillar-stone, \nand the King\'s Chair on Tara \nHill. \n\nSt. Patrick, determining to \nstrike paganism in its strong- \nhold, at once set out from the \nBoyne southward in the direc- \ntion of Tara, in the spring of \nA.D. 433. On his way he converted Seschnan and his family, one of whom was \nthe noble youth who received the name of Benignus, and is famous in the history \nof the Irish Church as St. Bennan. The next day was Holy Saturday, and St. \nPatrick pitched his tent at Slane, and at nightfall lighted the paschal fire prepara- \ntory to the Easter solemnities. At the time King Laoghaire was at Tara, at- \ntended by a crowd of princes, chiefs and followers, for the purposes of a high \nfestival, incidental to which was the lighting of a great fire.* The Paschal Fire \non the Hill of Sldne illumi- \nnated the plain of Meath, and \naroused indignation at the \ncourt, for it was a violation of \nlaw to light any fire on the \noccasion until that of Tara \nHill was first visible. The \nking demanded who had dared \nto break the law. The Druids \nreplied, that they knew who had made the fire, and " if it were not extinguished \nbefore morning it would never be extinguished ; and that the man who had kin- \ndled it would surpass kings and princes." " We will go forth and slay him who \n\n* Dr. O\'Conor {Rer.Hibcr. Scrip., vol. i.), labors to show that this festival was that of Belliiine or Bealtaine, and \nDr. Petrie, in his Essay on Tara Hill, appears to adopt that view; but Dr. O\'Donovan, in his remarks on the division of \nthe year among the ancient Irish, in the introduction to the Book of Rights, proves that there is no authority for this, \nopinion, and that in fact the fire of Beltinne wss always lighted at the hill of Uisneach, in Westmeath. JNI. F. Cusack, \nLife of St. Patrick, p. 253, adopts this view. The festivity which Laoghaire was celebrating, was prob-ibly that of his \nown birthday, as is stated in tlie Life of St. Patrick in the Book of Lisinorc. \n\n\n\n\nCarvings on the Font of Kilcarn. \n\n\n\nMEA TH. 265 \n\nmade the fire," cried the king and attended by Druids and chiefs went forth. \nHaving forbidden any to rise or show respect to the stranger, the king ordered \nthe Christians before him. When St. Patrick and his priests appeared \xe2\x80\x94 notwith- \nstanding the king\'s mandate \xe2\x80\x94 Ere, the son of Dego, rose to salute him, offered \nhim his place, and having given eager attention, became a Christian. This Ere \nwas subsequently bishop of Slane ; and his hermitage, a romantic ruin in a grove \nof ancient yews, within the present demesne of Slane Castle, the seat of the Mar- \nquis of Conyngham, is an object of great interest at this day. \n\nSt. Patrick was invited to attend at Tara on the next day to discuss with the \nDruids ; the king secretly planning an ambuscade to destroy the missionaries. St. \nPatrick, not unaware of the intended perfidy, but with confidence in the Divine \npower, robed in white, wearing his mitre, bearing the " staff of Jesus," and chant- \ning a solemn hymn in Irish \xe2\x80\x94 still extant \xe2\x80\x94 reached the hill. Confronting the \nmonarch and his Druids, and objects of wonder to the pagan assembly, stood the \napostle, the youth Bennan, and the eight clerics. Here, as before, it was or- \ndered that no mark of honor should be shown to him ; but, also as before, there \nwas one found to disobey ; Dubtach, the arch-poet, head of the bards of Erin, \nrising, and paying respect to the venerable stranger. Dubtach was the first con- \nvert that day. Having silenced the Druids in argument, the Saint made many \nconverts, and so favorably impressed the king as to receive permission to preach \nhis faith. \n\nPerhaps the most wonderful scene of which Tara was the theater since the \nvisit of St. Patrick, was that in which O\'Connell was the chief figure in August, \n1843, the year of the " monster Repeal meetings," when, as the London Times \nadmitted, " a million of people were present " in response to the Tribune\'s call. \nIt is eminently worthy of record, that, notwithstanding the commingling of multi- \ntudes from north, south, east, and west, so alive were the people to a sense of \nthe dignity of the occasion, that no violation of law or good feeling occurred. \n\nBy a northwesterly route from Tara we strike the Boyne at Bellinter, and \ncrossing to the left bank, the student will find some interesting remains at Can- \nnistown and Kilcarn, especially the unique circular Choir Arch of the former, and \nthe font of the latter. This beautiful relic was saved from destruction by an \nintelligent blacksmith named Walsh, who buried it, and exhumed it when an oc- \ncasion presented to show it to Mr. Wakeman the antiquary and artist who made \nthe drawings of it here reproduced. It is now set up in the neighboring Catholic \nchapel of Johnstown. It measures three feet six inches in height ; the basin \nbeing two feet ten inches in diameter, and thirteen inches deep. There are \n\n\n\n266 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ntwelve niches on the exterior of the basin, the heads of which are enriched with \ngraceful foliage. The buttresses between the niches are crocketed, the bases \nresting on grotesque figures as brackets. The figures within the niches are exe- \ncuted with care. They were, evidently, intended to represent the Saviour and \nthe Twelve Apostles ; the former, crowned and holding the globe and cross, is in \nthe act of blessing the Virgin Mary, who is also crowned. \nIn the cuttings on the banks of the Boyne for the \nrailroad from Drogheda to Navan and Kells, important \ndiscoveries were made. On the east side a large quan- \ntity of bridle-bits, and horse trappings of iron, bronze, \nand silver, rings, buckles, head-stalls, peytrells, and \nclasps, and a large collection of human and animal bones \nwere found, which are in the Museum of the Royal \nIrish Academy in Dublin ; and on the west, an extensive \nsouterrain, consisting of a straight passage fifty-three \nfeet long, eight broad, and six high ; with two smaller \npassages at right angles, ending in circular beehive- \nshaped chambers. The whole formed the figure of a \ncross ; precisely similar to caves found at Clady near \nNewtown Bridge. The roof is of large, rough, undressed \nflag-stones, placed in position without cement. \n\nThe Blackwater, running out of Lough Ramor in the \nCounty Cavan, enters Meath at Castle-Kieran, near \nwhich is the old church of St. Kieran (who died in 770), with the remains of five \ncrosses, the most perfect of which we represent, and one of the most beautiful \nHoly Wells in Ireland shaded by an ancient and immense ash. Winding through \nfertile banks adorned by ruins, and enriched by venerable memories, the river \nunites with the Boyne at Navan. Midway between Navan and Kells on a green \nhill sloping from the water\'s edge, may be discerned the site of the palace of \nTailtean (Teltown), one of the four royal residences of early Ireland, next in im- \nportance to, and from all appearance of greater extent than that of Tara. \n\nThe fair of Tailtean with its Olympic Games was established a.m. 3370, \nand continued to the time of Roderick O\'Conor : an account of which might \noccupy a volume. Kells is one of the most memorable places in early and \nmedieval Irish history. Mention is made of it, dating to a.m. 3972. St. Co- \nlumba, having received a grant from Dermod, son of Fergus Kervaill, king of \nIreland, founded the celebrated abbey of the Blessed Virgin here in a.d. 550. In \n\n\n\n\nSt. Kieran\'s Cross. \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n949, Godfrey with the Danes of Dubhn pkindered all this locality, and carried \n"upwards of three thousand persons into captivity, besides gold, silver, raiment, \nand various wealth, and goods of every description." In 1006, the famous Book \nof Kells was stolen from the sacristy. This book, subsequently recovered, and \nnow in the library of Trinity College, Dublin, is described by Westwood, who is \nesteemed the highest authority on such a subject, as " unquestionably the most \nelaborately executed manuscript of early art now In existence." It contains the \nGospels in Latin, with the introductions of St. Jerome; also charters copied \ninto it while in the abbey, which prove, says O\'Donovan, that " the ancient Irish \ncommitted their covenants to writing" in their :\xe2\x80\x94 ^, \n\nown language before the Anglo-Norman inva- \nsion." " Ireland," writes Mr. Westwood, " may \njustly be proud of the Book of Kells." From a \ncomparison of it with the Gospels of Lindisfarne, \nand bearing in mind that Lindisfarne was colo- \nnized by the monks of lona or Columbkille, in \n634, only forty years after Columbkille\'s death, \nhe thinks there is "no great reason for doubt- \ning that this volume might have belonged to that \ncelebrated saint." For beauty and splendor of \nexecution, it is not surpassed by that of any age. \nDigby Wyatt in vain attempted to copy its illu- \nminations. " The colors still so fresh and charm- \ningly harmonious," says the artist-author, Henry \nO\'Neill, " what can they be to have lasted \nthrough so many hundreds of years ? The instruments, how exquisitely neat they \nmust have been ! Where were they made ? Who made them ? How steady and \npracticed must have been the hands by which the lines were drawn ! There is in \none\'of these illuminations a composition of a series of lines forming an intricate \npattern ; these lines are so fine that they are invisible to the naked eye ! Had \nthese Irish artists of old lenses to aid them, so that they, with their wonderful \ndexterity, might execute what we nowadays require strong magnifiers to discern ?" \nHugh de Lacy re-edified and endowed the abbey, and the town being forti- \nfied with a castle and wall became a great stronghold of the Pale. In 1203, the \ntown was burned; and again in 1316, by Edward Bruce, who defeated Roger \nMortimer. The landed property of the abbey was immense, and the last abbot. \nRev. Richard Plunkett, in 1539 was forced to surrender it and all its possessions \n\n\n\n\nRmina Tni 1.7 Dm ij;kmore \n\n\n\n268 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nto Henry VIII. Such surrender, says Cobbett, being "precisely of the nature of \nthose \' voluntary surrenders \' which men make of their purses when the robber\'s \npistol is at their temple, or his blood-stained knife at their throat." No vestige \nof abbey or church is visible. A round tower, about one hundred feet in height, \n\nstands by the cemetery, \nnear it some sculptured \ncrosses, and a small arched \nstone-roofed building, \nknown as St. Columbkille\'s \noratory. The great cross, \nthe top of which is broken \noff, stands in the market \nplace, a splendid relic of \nmassive elegance. \n\nA mile from Navan \non the road to Slane, and \nadjoining the woodland \ndemesne of Blackcastle, \nare the ruins of the Round \nTower and Church of \nDonoghmore, the latter of \nwhich was, it is believed, a \nfoundation of St. Patrick, \nwho bestowed it on his \ndisciple Cassanus. The \ntower is a fine specimen, \nsixty-six feet six inches \nin circumference near the \nbase, and one hundred feet \n\nDistant View of Dangan Castle. ^^^ ^^ ^j^^ ^j^^^^ ^f ^j^^ \n\nroof. The wall is three feet nine inches in thickness, and the arched doorway, \nwhich is twelve feet from the ground, has a figure of the Saviour cut in relief \npartly on the key-stone, and partly on the stone over it, which supplies Petrie with \none of his arguments in favor of the Christian origin of the towers. \n\nThose who love to indulge the sensations evoked by localities made famous by \ngenius may, either from Kells or Navan, visit Nobber, the birth-place of the great \nbard Turlough O\'Carolan, and the fairy rath, where the blind harper and poet \n\n\n\n\nAIEA TH. \n\n\n\n269 \n\n\n\nused to He for hours holding, It was thought, entranced communion with the fay- \nqueen, and her court within it. While on this subject it will not be out of place, \nbefore we continue our course by the Boyne, to refer to other scenes in Meath, \nLaracor and Dangan, associated with the names and memories of two other Irish- \nmen of world-wide fame \xe2\x80\x94 Dean Swift and the Duke of Wellington. \n\nThe " Iron Duke " was born in Dangan Castle, the family seat of the Wesleys, \nsome five miles from Trim. He was baptized in Dublin, which gave rise to a \n\n\n\n\nSwift Piriih Lkuic/i t/ Lii ico? \n\n\n\nsupposition, now dispelled, that he was born in that city. He passed many of his \ndays of boyhood at Dangan, resided some time in Trim in the house at the corner \nof Dublin-Gate Street, and represented that borough in the Irish Parliament, \nwhere, in the Reports of 1 793, he appeared as Captain A. Wesley. These asso- \nciations were no doubt influential in suggesting the monument (represented\' on \npage 251), which tells its own story in the inscription \xe2\x80\x94 " This column, erected in \nthe year MDCCCXVIL, in Honour of the Illustrious Duke of Wellington, by \nthe Grateful Contributors of the County Meath." Dangan was described in the \nearly days of the duke\'s father, i 748, by Mrs. Delany, who was his godmother, as \n\n\n\n270 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\na magnificent place, with a gravel walk fifty-two feet wide and six hundred yards \nlong- from the house to the lake, which was twenty-six acres in extent, all set in a \npark of more than eight hundred acres. It passed from the Wellesleys, and has long \npresented a rather picturesque aspect of ruinous dilapidation.* Roger O\'Connor \nbecame an occupant of the castle and estate, and greatly despoiled it of everything \nthat could be coined into money ; and finally, having been heavily insured, it was \nfound to be on fire, and almost demolished before aid could be obtained. Roger\'s \nson, Fergus O\'Connor, widely known as a member of Parliament, and the leader \nof the Chartist movement in England more than thirty years ago, was born in \nthe same apartment in which the Duke of Wellington first saw the light in \nDangan. \n\nNearer to Trim, and in the vicinity of Dangan, is the still more interesting \nlocality \xe2\x80\x94 that of Laracor \xe2\x80\x94 associated with the memory of Swift and Stella. After \nhaving been cheated out of the better prospect afforded by a deanery in Derry, \nthe satirical young churchman, in 1699, then thirty-two years old, was inducted \ninto the rectory of Agher, and the vicarages of Laracor and Rathbeggan, in the \ndiocese of Meath. Inducing Stella, then in the heyday of her youth and beauty, \nand her matronly friend, Mrs. Dingley, to take up their residence near by, they, \nwith Dr. Raymond, the vicar of Trim so often mentioned in Swift\'s journals, \nsauntered through the rural lanes, or by the river, near to the bridge over which \nstood the glebe and well-kept gardens. Of Swift\'s residence, only a portion of \na gable wall was standing a few years since. The old parish church, where he \nofficiated and won a reputation, remains. It contains a handsome monument to \nthe last Wesley, or Wellesley, who bequeathed his name and estate to the ances- \ntor of Wellington. It used to be attended by the Wesleys, and recentl}\' contained \n" the hangings of the communion table, the reading-desk, and the pulpit, the \nsame as had been used in the private chapel of Dangan, and were removed to \nthis church when the Wellesley family left." The handsome rectory in Trim \nwas later a favorite residence of Maria Edgeworth, whose sister was married to \n\n* The duke\'s grandfather was Richard CoUey, of Castle Carbury in the County Kildare ; who in 172S, succeeded to \nthe estates, and assumed the arms and surname of his cousin Garrett Wesley, Esq., of Dangan, County Meath. In 1746 \nhe was created Baron Mornington, and dying in 1758, was succeeded by his only son Garrett, who m 1760 was elevated to \nbe Viscount Wellesley of Dangan Castle, and Earl of Mornington. This Earl of Mornington (of whom and his wife \nAnne, the future hero of Waterloo was the fifth son) was distinguished as a musician, and the composer of vocal music \nfor church choirs and glee clubs, of undeniable merit ; of the latter class. Gently hear me, charming maid : Come, fairest \nnymph; and bird of eve, are referred to by musical critics as being distinguished by taste, feeling, animation, and harmony ; \nwhile his Here in cool p-ot, which won the gold medal of the Catch Club in 1779, is esteemed as a masterpiece, " a work \nof real genius." He was llie founder and leader of the band of the " Musical Academy," a society of the nobility and \ngentry for benevolent pur|io<;cs in Dublin ; and was created a Doctor of Music liy the University. \n\n\n\nMEA TH. \n\n\n\n271 \n\n\n\nDr. Butler, rector of Trim, and dean of Clonmacnoise ; who was indefatigable \nin collecting information on the subject of the castle and the surrounding anti- \nquities. \n\nResuming our observations from Navan, and pursuing the direction to Slane, \nwe take another view of the interesting ruins at Donoghmore, pass the single \nremaining arch of the Robber\'s Bridge, of predatory tradition, below the abrupt \nprecipitous hill, Knockminaune, and behold Ardmulchan Church on the right, and. \n\n\n\n\n, DonogJimorc Abbey. \n\nat a slight distance, Dunmoe Castle on the left bank of the river. The ruins \nof the former stand on one of the highest banks (Arcl-melchon Melchu\'s height) ; \nand there is evidence that some materials of an earlier building were used in the \nerection of the tall square tower. A kistvaen, or small stone chamber, containing \nskeletons, urns, and golden ornaments, was discovered some years back here ; \nand the bells of the church are said to have been thrown into a deep pool in the \nriver, called the Blue Hole, at the time of the Reformation. A very beautiful \nwell, below Ardmulchan, is worthy of a visit ; also, at a short distance from the \nchurch, an ancient military fort, consisting of a circular mound with fosse and \n\n\n\n272 \xe2\x80\xa2 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nrampart. It is now covered by a grove of ash trees, through whose tall and slender \nstems the outline of the old relic can be seen at a considerable distance. \n\nCharming as is the scenery of the Boyne from below Trim, it is from this point, \nin Wilde\'s opinion, that its Rhine-like characteristics become effectively apparent to \nthe artistic eye. For the next few miles we have high, beetling crags, crowned by \nfeudal halls and walls and ruined chapels ; steep and sometimes precipitous banks \ncovered with the noblest monarchs of the forest ; and lovely dells, with ever-vary- \ning bits of charming scenery, presenting new beauties at every turn of the stream. \n\nOn a commanding eminence above one of the fords of the Boyne stands Dun- \nmoe Castle, which must have been, in the days of the Pale, a place of considerable \nstrength. The original structure at this important point was probably built by \nDe Lacy, but the existing remains indicate an Anglo-Norman keep of the sixteenth \ncentury. It is an oblong pile, with circular flanking towers, presenting a front of \nseventy-three feet to the river. It was, unfortunately, built of small stones, in \nconsequence of which it is yearly crumbling into decay and ruins. Since it pre- \nsented the appearance given in our sketch, the castle has suffered much dilapida- \ntion ; but, like a scarred and battered veteran, it has many tales of the wars. It \nhas stood several sieges, and has had a variety of masters. During the civil wars \nof 1 64 1, after the defeat of the English at Julianstown, an Irish detachment was \nsent against Dunmoe ; but the latter, bafifled by the commander, a Captain Power, \nonly entrapped him by a stratagem, and induced him to surrender. Oliver Crom- \nwell gave it a passing salute, but no more formidable recognition ; and a cannon \nball, which for some two centuries was used as a weight in a neighboring crane, was \nsaid to be the identical one he fired at it. The castle was re-edified while James \nII. was in Ireland. Its last lord was D\'Arcy, whose name is now usually asso- \nciated with it, and whose mausoleum, in a very neglected condition, is in a small \nchapel in an adjoining inclosure. It is a current belief among the peasantry that \nan underground passage and tunnel leads from it under the Boyne to the opposite \nside. Near Ardmulchan is Hayes, the seat of the Earl of Mayo. At Stackallan, \nover the Broad Boyne Bridge, is a holy (St. Patrick\'s) well, and in the vicinity the \nresidence of Viscount Boyne, once occupied as the College of St. Columba. \nProceeding toward Slane we move amid delightful scenery : passing the wood- \ncrowned heights and leafy banks of Beauparc ; the ivy-mantled walls of Castle- \nDexter, over the dark plantation on the opposite river-side, until rise before us the \nmodern castle of Slane, and farther down the ancient abbey ruins. \n\nNo one with a Christian spirit, and even faintly excited by the charm of his- \ntorical stud)^, can fail to pause and ponder at Slane. Resting on the venerable \n\n\n\n\nDUNMOE CASTLE. \n\n\n\n2/4 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ntombstone beneath the ivy-mantled tower, which was the belfry of the old cathedral \nabbey, once gorgeous with shrines, illuminated by votive tapers, whose places are \nusurped by the hemlock and purple foxglove, we readily realize the pictures \nwhich " hang on memory\'s walls," presenting scenes and acts in the early mission \nlife of the Apostle of Ireland, and the pagan powers and practices contemporane- \nous with them. The ground we stand upon is truly sacred ground. If the scenes \nconjured before the mind\'s eye are impressive, equally beautiful and suggestive of \na pageant of history are the scenes presented to the actual vision, if climbing to \n\nthe broken battlements of the \n- - - -\' 5.E"^^3s*=^ - _ - tower summit, we gaze below \n\nand around. From the towers \nand steeples of Trim, we trace \nthe windings of the blue Boyne \nto the meeting of the sea and \nsky below the Maiden ToAver, \nat Drogheda. We follow it, \npassing through the highly cul- \ntivated landscape ; view the \nhills of Tara and Skreen, the \nwoods and demesnes of Hayes, \nArdmulchan, Blackcastle, Beau- \n\n\n\n\nTlie Boyne from Old-Bridge. \n\n\n\npare ; look down over the green mounds and pasture lands of Slane, and follow the \nriver as it dances by rapid and ford to where the great pyramids of Western Europe, \nKnowth, New Grange, and Dowth, rise on its left bank ; while beyond, on the \nright-hand curve, Old-Bridge and the hill of Donore mark the battle-field of \n1690, where the scepter of the line of Stuart may be said to have passed from \ntheir hands forever ; and each hill and ford recalls heroic names \xe2\x80\x94 Sarsfield, \nHamilton, Berwick, Schomberg, Caillemote. In the distance stands Duleek, and \nbeyond the hill-line of Louth, are Monasterboice and Mellifont, in the latter of \nwhich Devorgilla, the " falsest of women," ended her life in prayer and penitence. \nIn the lower distance the echoes of Cromwellian cannonading comes from those \nsteeples and. turrets, and, jutting out, above them, is the Mill Mount of Drogheda. \nAs Wilde says : " The records and footprints of two thousand years are all be- \nfore us: the solemn procession of the simple shepherd to the early pagan mound ; \nthe rude slinger standing on the earthen circle ; the Druid fires, paling before the \nbright sun of Christianity ; the cadence of the round tower\'s bell : the matin and the \nvesper hymns swelling from the hermit\'s cell, or early missionary church ; the proud \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n275 \n\n\n\n\ngalleys and glancing swords of fierce northern hordes ; the smoking ruins of church \nand tower ; the shout of rival clans in civil feuds ; the lances and banners of \nNorman soldiers ; the moat, and fosse, and drawbridge of the keep, still echoing \nback the strife of hostile ranks . . . have, one and all, their epochs, ruins, \nsites, or history legibly inscribed upon this picture." \n\nThere formerly stood, probably on the site of these ruins, a round tower, often \nreferred to in ancient records, which was destroyed by the Danes in the tenth \ncentury. It is said that, in the year 653, Dagobert, a child of seven years, sub- \nsequently king of Aus- \n\ntrasia, was sent to Slane, _ ^^_^=^ . _ _--_ \n\nand after attaining " ed- - - _ ~^ \'^ _ \n\nucation proper for the ^ \n\nenjoyment of a throne," \nwas recalled to France \nand placed in govern- \nment. Many remarka- \nble tombs are found in _^ \n\nthe neighborhood of \nthese ruins, and the an- \ncient font, an unorna- \nmented octagon, in the overgrowth of weeds within the remains of the. church. \n\nIn addition to the great abbeys and extensive ecclesiastical foundations in \nMeath, there were numerous small chapels Or oratories, called cills, or cells, \nerected principally near the residences of territorial chieftains ; and sometimes on \nthe sites of decayed monasteries, or on spots consecrated by the lives of holy men \nand anchorites. Not infrequently they had their origin in a pious vow, or for \nthe support of an ecclesiastic whose of^ce was to pray for the soul of the founder. \nHere, within a distance of only eight miles, there are nine of the smaller kind of \nchapels, of which we are here particularly speaking, alternately placed on either \nbank of the Boyne \xe2\x80\x94 Fennar, Monk-Newtown, Rosnaree, Dowth, Donore, New- \ntown-Drogheda, Stagruman, Beaulieu, and Mornington. They are generally of the \nsame character, with low side-walls, and the gables rising with high, pointed pedi- \nments. A fair specimen is found at Kilsharvan, about four miles south of the \nBoyne, a mile and a half east of Duleek, on the banks of the Nanny River. \n\nTwo miles below Slane is Rosnaree {Ros-na-Righ, the Wood of the Kings), \nand upon the opposite swelling bank are a series of mounds, raths, forts, caves, \ncircles, and pillar stones, all ancient pagan sepulchral monuments, identified as \n\n\n\nMound of New Grange. \n\n\n\n276 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nforming " the Irish Memphis, or city of tombs," the Brugh na Boinne. At Ros- \nnaree was buried one of the grandest characters of ancient Ireland, King Cormac \nMac Art, who died at Clety in 266. Having lost an eye, and it being " not lawful \nthat a king with a blemish should reside at Tara," Cormac spent some years pre- \nvious to his death in retirement, and in the study of philosophy, literature and reli- \ngion. His discourses with the Druids were not satisfactory to his ideas, and he is \nsaid to have been the third person in Ireland who, if he did not positively ac- \ncept Christianity, was illuminated with the truth of the Christian faith, before the \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRuins of Dangaii Castle. \n\n\n\ncoming of Saint Patrick. This accounts for his burial at Rosnaree. He charged \nhis attendants not to lay his body in Brugh, because it was, though royal, the \ncemetery of idolaters ; but at Rosnaree, with his face to the east, in token of the \nrevelation of heavenly light coming from that point. After his death, however, \nhis council deemed it more becoming to the honor of so great a prince that he \nshould lie with his predecessors, the kings of Tara. Thrice they raised his body \nto carry it over the river, and each time the Boyne swelled to such a height as to \nrender the ford impassable. This circumstance was regarded as an evidence of \nthe violation of the king\'s testamentary desire, and he was finally laid at rest in \nRosnaree. Of Cormac, the Aiinals of the Four Masters say he " composed \n\n\n\nCarving in Eastern Recess. \n\n\n\n\nEnt> ance to Ga, \n\n\n\nCa?vc(i iitoiu on hititior \n\n\n\nANCIEMT REMAINS AT NE-W GRANQE. \n\n\n\n278 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nprecepts for kings, tracts on the customs and tributes, and on the ordinations of \nkings : he was well versed in the laws, as well as In historical and chronological \nresearches ; he planned rules for the judges, and right principles of equity in mat- \nters of agreements ; " and that he " was also the person who collected the chroni- \ncles of Ireland into one place, Tara, until he ordained that they should be written \n\n\n\n\nKihha7-van Church. \n\nout into one book, called the Psalter of Tara. In that book were the acts and \nsynchronisms of the kings of Ireland, with the kings and emperors of the world, \nand the provincial kings of Ireland." \n\nIn the notice of the eight, of the several, royal burial places in Ireland, con- \ntained in the Senchas-na-Relec, or History of the Cemeteries, compiled in the \ntwelfth century in Clonmacnoise, we find that the Brugh na Boinne was the most \ncelebrated and extensive. This great necropolis extends nearly three miles along \nthe left bank of the river from Knowth to Netterville demesne, and about a mile \nin width from the river\'s bank. Within this space are the remains of seventeen \nsepulchral barrows : the smaller situated in the green pasture lands forming the \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n279 \n\n\n\nValley of the Boyne, while the three of monumental magnitude, Knowth, New- \nGrange, and Dowth, are on the summit of the ridge over the valley. These are \nwithin sight of, and a mile distant from, each other. The first met with is Knowth, \nan abrupt, hemispherical mound, rising out of the sloping hill of the townland, \nfrom which it takes its name. Its top is rather flat, and its base was surrounded \nby huge masses of stone. Excavations show it to be an enormous cairn of small \n\nstones, eighty feet high, occupying a surface \nof an acre, now covered with rich sward. \n\nNew Grange is also an enormous cairn of \nsmall stones on the summit of a natural undulat- \ning slope, covering about two acres, 400 paces \nin circumference, and now eighty feet higher \nthan the natural surface ; a pillar stone origin- \nally stood on the summit. Its height has been \nlessened and its outline impaired by its having \nbeen used for years as a quarry for building ma- \nterial and road repairs. It is now partly covered \nby a growth of hazel trees. This stupendous \nrelic of pagan times, perhaps one of the oldest \nCeltic monuments in the world, has elicited the \nattention, and called forth the wonder and admi- \nration of nearly every distinguished antiquary, \nnot only of the British Isles, but of Europe generally. It was also, like Knowth, \nsurrounded by a circle of huge blocks of stones, thirty feet apart, ten of which are \nyet visible above ground on the southeastern side. In removing some stones for \na road, an opening was accidentally discovered nearly two hundred years ago, and \nthe earliest published descriptions of it by Edward Llhwyd, the Welsh antiquary \nand keeper of the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford, and. Sir Thomas Molyneux, ap- \npeared about the same time.* The opening disclosed a gallery and chamber, both \nformed of stones of great magnitude, placed together without mortar. That such \nCyclopean masonry could have been erected by a people probably unacquainted \nwith the mechanical powers deemed necessary for the erection of modern edifices \nexcites astonishment and thought. This is increased by the fact that although \nsome of the stones, both within and without the cairn, bear marks of being water- \nworn, and were, perhaps, lifted from the bed of the Boyne, others belong to a \n\n\n\n\nNortlwrn Crypt in Nciu Grange. \n\n\n\n* It appears that Llhwyd\'s, dated from Sligo, March 12, l6gg, was published in \'Rov.AslwA\'s Mtvui Aii/iqiia Jicslaic- \nraUj. \\~11\'},\\ Molyneux\'s Discoursf. Concerning Danish JllozindSj Forts, and Towers in Iretand WtVi published 1725. \n\n\n\n28o \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\n\nclass of rock not found in the neighborhood at all ; some are basaltic, and others \nmust have been transported here from the Mourne Mountains, on the coast of \nDown. \n\nA few years ago the removal of the rubbish about the entrance disclosed what \nwas thought a new discovery in a remarkably carved stone, but Llhwyd had al- \nready described it as "a great fllat stone, like a large tombstone, placed edgeways, \nhaving on the outside certain barbarous carvings, like snakes encircled, but with- \nout heads." And here the circumstances may be noticed, that ornamental carv- \nings of spiral, lozenge, zigzag, fern-leaf, and other patterns \xe2\x80\x94 such as decorate an- \ncient torques and weapons discovered \nin Ireland, are found on stones not \nonly exposed to view, but on surfaces \nwhich until some recent dilapidation \nwere entirely concealed ; and also on \nsome which were not apparently in- \ntended for view. It is plain they were \ncarved before they were placed in \ntheir present positions, and suggest \nthe idea \xe2\x80\x94 which enhances still more \ntheir antiquity \xe2\x80\x94 that they were used \nfor some anterior purpose. \n\nThe passage, sixty-three feet in length, runs nearly north and south, and is \nformed of twenty-one upright stones on the right, and twenty-two on the left \nhand, and is roofed with flags of immense length (one is seventeen feet long and \nsix wide), resting, in some places, on the upright stones, and in others on masonry \nexternal to the latter, which are not of equal height. The general height of the \npassage is six feet, for about three-fourths of its length. It then suddenly rises, \nand again, within seventeen feet of the chamber, it rises so as to slope gradually \ninto its roof ; the stones composing this portion are gigantic, many of them being \neight and ten feet high. The passage leads to a large dome-roofed chamber. \nAs all is perfect darkness within the mound, a light is necessary to convey any \nidea of its extent. The chamber is nearly circular, with three offsets, one oppo- \nsite the entrance, and one on each side east and west, the ground plan with the \npassage thus forming the figure of a cross. The side of the chamber to the \nheight of ten feet is formed of a circle of eleven upright stones, their flat surfaces \nfacing inward. From this course springs the dome \xe2\x80\x94 of stones somewhat less in \nsize, placed horizontally on the flat with the edges toward the interior. Each \n\n\n\nMound of Do-duth. \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n281 \n\n\n\nlayer projects slightly over that beneath, and thus decreasing, the circles form a \ndome without an arch, the whole being closed at top by one large slab ; the \nstability of the structure being preserved by the mass of surrounding material. \nThe dome is twenty feet high, with an area of about seventeen. In each recess \nis a hollowed stone oval basin, that in the right-hand chamber being three feet \nlong, standing on a larger and shallower basin. That these rude bowls contained \nhuman remains, Wilde has little doubt. The bones of two bodies, entire, not \nburned, with many bones of beasts and pieces of deer\'s horns, were found in the \n\ndiscovery in 1699 ; but Wilde is convinced that the \n\nmound had been examined long prior. There is \nno doubt that this venerable tumulus met the fate \nof others at the hands of the Danes, who, as records \nshow, rifled many of the ancient sepulchers in search \nof gold and other treasures. \n\nThomas Davis, speaking of this remarkable \nstructure, says : " History is too young to have \nnoted its origin. Archseology knows not its time. \nIt is a legacy from a forgotten ancestor, to prove \nthat he, too, had art and religion. It may have \nmarked the tomb of a hero who freed, or an invader \nwho subdued \xe2\x80\x94 a Brian or a Strongbow. But \nwhether or not a hero\'s or a saint\'s bones conse- \ncrated it at first, this is plain, it is a temple of nigh two thousand years, perfect \nas when the last pagan sacrificed within it. It is a thing to be proud of, as a \nproof of Ireland\'s antiquity, to be guarded as an illustration of her early creed \nand arts. It is one of a thousand muniments of an old nationality, which a \nnational government would keep safe." And an article quoted by Davis from \nthe London Athcncsum, showing of what great interest to the English antiquarian \nwas the knowledge and preservation of Irish antiquities, speaks of New Grange \nas "that most gigantic relic of Druidical times, which has justly been termed the \nIrish pyramid." \n\nThe Mound of Dowth, not as broad at the base, is more conical than that of \nNew Grange. The former, situated on one of the higher slopes of the river \nbank, is a mile distant from the latter. Traces of the surrounding stone circle \nstill remain. Formed of loose stones, a verdant sod had covered its surface, \nwhich was partially disturbed by the explorations undertaken at the request of \nthe Royal Irish Academy in 1847. These examinations disclosed a gallery run- \n\n\n\n\nEntrance to Gallery, Dowth. \n\n\n\n282 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nning eastward, formed of huge stones and roofed with, large flags, leading to a \nchamber of a cruciform shape, formed, with slight exceptions, in the same manner \nas that of New Grange. Some of the stones in the passage, which is twenty- \nseven feet long, are rudely decorated with carved circles and curved and zigzag \nlines. Both in the passage and at the entrances of several of the minor crypts \nand recesses which branch from the chamber, are sills, formed by large sunken \nflags, projecting above the surface apparently for the purpose of preventing the \n\ndisplacement of the side walls by ex- \n\n\n\n\nCaillemote\'s Grave. \n\n\n\nternal pressure. The chamber is an \nirregular oval, nine feet four inches by \nseven feet ; and the blocks of stone \nwhich form its upright pillars are fully \nas large, and are similarly carved as \nthose in New Grange. Other carved \nfigures are discovered here, some in \nwheel-like and concentric forms, some \nresembling the Ogham character, and \nin some instances the lotus, or lily-leaf, \ncut with such precision as to give at \nfirst view the appearance of a fossil. \nOn examination it is found that the leaves stand out half an inch in relief, while \nthe stone for many feet surrounding has been carefully picked away. In the \ncenter of the chamber stands a shallow stone basin, much larger than those in \nNew Grange. From the west angle of the southern recess a passage leads by a \nnarrow entrance into another series of chambers and passages. The floor of the \nsouthern gallery is formed by a single stone, ten feet six inches long, its center \nbeing hollowed into a shallow oval, capable of holding about a gallon of fluid. \nIn the excavations, sling-stones, fragments of human heads, as well as burned \nhuman bones within the chamber, bones of animals, and glass and amber beads, \nbone bodkins, copper pins, and iron knives and rings were found. In the neigh- \nborhood of these mounds are many curious remains. \n\nA few miles south of the pagan monuments, and in striking contrast from \nits early Christian memories is Duleek, which derives its name from Daim-liag \xe2\x80\x94 \nstone house, or church. Though this church is the eighth in order of time, raised \nby St. Patrick or his disciples, it was, in all probability, the very first built of \nstone in Ireland. It was founded by St. Kienan \xe2\x80\x94 born about a.d. 442 ; and was \nanciently called Daim-liag-Cianain \xe2\x80\x94 the stone church of Kienan. A daimliag \n\n\n\nME A TH. \n\n\n\n283 \n\n\n\n\n\nmeant not only a stone building, such as the Cyclopean works and cloughans \nalluded to in Kerry and Galway, but an edifice put together with lime, mortar or \nother cement. Its roof was cemented stone, though more frequently of wood \nand reeds. That stone churches soon became common in Ireland from the \nearliest Christian period seems incontrovertible from the fact that daimliag was \nthe Gaelic name by which Irish writers designated a cathedral or abbey church, \nalthough they also used the \nterms tempull, eclais, regies, \nbaslic indifferently, words evi- \ndently adopted from the Latin. \nIrish annalists, when writing \nin Latin, invariably rendered \nthe daimliag by ecclesia, or \n\xe2\x96\xa0basilica, and, when writing in \nIrish, they used daimliag, tem- \np2ill, eclais, and regies, indis- \ncriminately to the same build- \nings. These terms were never \napplied to a wooden church, \n\nwhich was invariably designated by oratorium, and when the oratory was not of \nwood, by oratoritim lapidem. An ancient tract of the Brehon laws in Trinity \nCollege, Dublin, and the Book of Ballymote enumerate the wages of the Ollambh \nSaer or chief builder for stone and wood, and it is remarked that the most dis- \ntinguished branches of his profession are the construction of the daimliag and the \ndurtheach (house of oak), the principal forms of ancient ecclesiastical structures.* \nDuleek was the first bishop\'s see created in Ireland, and was suppressed or \n" merged " by Simon de Rochfort. Its rich abbey was a constant temptation to \nthe Danes, by whom it was frequently plundered and fired. After the battle of \nClontarf the body of King Brian was rested at the abbey here on its way to \nArmagh. A notable attraction is the ruin, and the handsome ivy-clad tower \nclosely resembling that at Slane. \n\nNortheast of Dowth is Old Bridge, and directly east of it the hill of Donore, \nlocalities which indicate the area on which was fought what is known as " The \nBattle of the Boyne." We have given a view from Old Bridge ; near it is the spot, \nbetween two elm trees, pointed out as the grave of Caillemote, the leader of the \nHuguenot adherents of William, who received a mortal wound as his troops were \n\n\n\nDonore Hill and Church Ruins. \n\n\n\n* See Petrie\'s Round Towers, etc.; Dean Cogan\'s Meath, vol. i., pp. 23-31. \n\n\n\n284 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nbeing routed by the Irish horse under Hamilton. Donore Hill has a sad interest \nas being the place where, near the church now in ruins, James H. pitched his tent \non the night before the battle, and from which he was the inglorious spectator of \nit. About midway between Old Bridge and Donore, on a bridle road between \nthe latter and the river, is the old farmhouse \xe2\x80\x94 called The Sheep-House \xe2\x80\x94 which\' \n\nis a monument to the Irish gal- \nlantry of that ill-fated day. The \nIrish held it obstinately. It be- \ncame the rallying point of the \nJacobites, and was taken and re- \ntaken several times ; being vigor- \nously attacked by the troops of \nWilliam, and as resolutely held \nby the Irish while a hope re- \nmained. Taking a view of this \nrelic of heroism, we may fitly \nquit the scene, and cross the \nborder of Meath. \n\nWhile crossing, it however, we \nare reminded of the recent (March, 1879) and prolonged visit of her Imperial \nMajesty Elizabeth, Empress of Austria, adding another to the many royal \nreminiscences of Meath \xe2\x80\x94 in her case the most peaceful of any save those of the \nyoung princes who sought it for education. The empress takes exceeding \npleasure in the chase, and on the famous hunting grounds of Meath, the most \nextensive in the United Kingdoms, the imperial huntress found such welcome \nand delight as, it is said, will lead to a renewal of both in the succeeding season. \n\n\n\n\nThe Old Sheep-House. \n\n\n\n\nTarn Brooch. \n\n\n\n\nCui>iri-ht, ISTO by Thomas IvtlJy, New York \n\n\n\n\nCopjTlght W7ti, by tboums iCelly/Nuw Yuri:. \n\n\n\nWESTMEATH. \n\n\n\n\n7^ ^i:^?^*. ^s. \n\n\n\n\n\n\nMiiltifa-nain Ahlnj. \n\nWestmeath formed a part of the ancient kingdom of Meath, remaining \nintact with it during and after the Anglo-Norman palatinate, and down to the \nmiddle of the sixteenth century, when by an act of the 34th of Henry VIII. it \nwas constituted a separate county. Its history, therefore, is in the main identi- \ncal with that of the famous old territory ; wanting, however, in the peculiar \nimportance and antiquarian value which distinguish Brugh-na-Boinne, Tara, \n\n285 \n\n\n\n286 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nSlane, and other venerable localities associated with the earliest records, as well \nas some other places of much\' later date, though still ancient as to time, and of \nabsorbing interest as to incident. The site of one of the four ancient royal \npalaces, that on the hill of Usneach, is within the boundary of Westmeath, and \nit also contains remains of the earlier period, and of the Anglo-Normans. \n\nIn a picturesque aspect Westmeath is not so uniformly level as Meath ; and \nwhile not mountainous, it is happily not deficient in the essentials of rural beauty, \nas it is diversified by hill and dale, and unusually well watered by lakes, the \nprincipal of which are Lough Iron or Hiern, Lough Ennel, Lough Derivaragh, \nLough Owel and Lough Lein. The expansion of the Shannon into Lough Ree, \nwhich is twenty miles long from Lanesborough to near Athlone, may be con- \nsidered as partially belonging to Westmeath as it forms the principal boundary \nbetween it and Roscommon. A number of smaller loughs, as Sheelin and Kinale \non the northwestern limit toward Cavan, Deel and Bawn on the side of Meath, \nGlinn toward Longford, Scudy on the west, and those of Drin, Cullen, Clons- \nhever, Maghan, Waterston, with the rivers Brosna and Inny, add many attractions \nto the rural features of the county. The scenery of these lakes is in general, as- \nBrewer says, marked by a soothing air of tranquillity rather than by any startling^ \ncontrasts, or by " the majestic graces which dignify the banks of some Inland \nwaters." There are, however, numerous spots which might inspire a wish similar \nto that of the colonel who, marching across the country In the wars of the seven- \nteenth century, halted on the banks of Derivaragh, and " was so taken with the \namenity of the prospect, and the beauty of the landscape, and the most ravishing \nechoes that redoubled to him the noise of his trumpets, that he exclaimed he \nnever carne to the like place, and is said to have wished he could, even then, \nwith leisure and safety, sit down and take up his rest here." The points of in- \nterest can be visited without much toil or trouble. The Royal Canal enters the \ncounty from Meath, north of Kinnegad, and passing Killucan, Mullingar \xe2\x80\x94 the \nchief town, where its summit level Is 274 feet above high water in Dublin Bay \xe2\x80\x94 \nBallynca, Ballynacarrig, crosses the Inny by an aqueduct and enters the County \nLongford near TInellick. The Grand Canal, entering from the King\'s County \nnear Rahne, proceeds to Kilbeggan. Mullingar has also railway communica- \ntion with Dublin, by which the lakes are of easy access to the angler. \n\nLough Ennell (or Belvidere), which Is five miles long and one and a quarter \nbroad, is about two miles south of the town. A part of the western shore near \nDysart is naturally beautiful ; on the northern and eastern sides improvements \nhave been made, but the southern Is tame and unattractive to the artistic eye. \n\n\n\nWESTMEA TH. \n\n\n\n287 \n\n\n\nLough Owel is about the same extent and Hes three miles north of the town. It \nis a deep clear sheet of water, fed by internal springs, and forms the chief supply \nof the Royal Canal. Though not bold, the shores have considerable elevation, \nare fertile, finely diversified, and partially wooded. Fraser thinks that its deep \npellucid waters, tiny islets, and sweetly varied shores entitle it to rank among \n" the most beautiful of our inland lakes." It is seen to great advantage from the \nroad leading to Longford. Lough Iron, half the size of Ennel or Owel, is a mile \n\n\n\n\nOld Gateway at Fore. \n\nand a half west of the latter ; and Derivaragh, six miles north of MuUingar, is of \nremarkable form, being at its lower end three miles in length by two in breadth, \nwhere it projects an arm four miles long by one third of a mile in width. At the \nhead of the lake is the hill of Knockeyan, 707 feet above the sea level and 500 \nabove that of the lake, a striking conical and commanding eminence. \n\nMultifernam is the first station on the branch line from MuUingar to Long- \nford and Cavan. The abbey or monastery, charmingly situated on a low isolated \nplot of ground convenient to Lough Derivaragh, was founded \xe2\x80\x94 according to \nArchdall and others \xe2\x80\x94 in a.d. 12-36, by William Delamer, " in honor of God and \nSt. Francis." Its name signifies " Fearnan\'s Mill," from a family having pos- \nsession anterior to the Delamers. The monastery was very capacious, and \nthe church, which is still surmounted by a graceful belfry, of exquisite ar- \nchitecture. Although it survived, it did not escape the persecution, having \n\n\n\n288 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nbeen burned or plundered and the \nfriars imprisoned in 1590, 1601, 1604, \n161 3, 1 614, and 161 7. It never was \ndeserted, even when desecrated, the \ncommunity and lay brothers returning \nand living in cabins within its boun- \ndaries. It has peculiar historical in- \nterest as the place where, it is said, \nthe great Confederate rising of 1641 \nwas concocted. Situated in the cen- \nter of the island and a place of great \nresort for religious purposes, the as- \nsemblage of large numbers there at \nany particular time was less liable to \nsuspicion than other places. In the \nWilliamite War the county also suf- \nfered ; so much indeed, that \xe2\x80\x94 owing to \nthe change of property occasioned by \nconfiscations \xe2\x80\x94 none of the names of \npersons who formed previous grand \njuries could be found on modern lists. \nOn the north side of the hill which \nbounds Lough Lein is the village of \nFore. The ruins of its ancient mon- \nastery, founded by St. Fechin in 630, \nand restored by Walter de Lacy in \n1209, and the remains of the gates \nand wall which inclosed it testify to \nthe former importance of the place. \nIn the earliest times three hundred \nmonks, all of whom subsisted by their \nown labor, assembled here around St. \nFechin, of whom many miracles are re- \nlated. No female was permitted to en- \nter the monastic precincts, even for the \npurpose of milking cows. In the reign \nof Edward III. a tax was levied on \n\n\n\nWESTMEA TH. 289 \n\nall goods brought to Fore, Mullingar, or Multifernam, or conveyed thence, for \nthe purpose of paving Fore, and erecting a wall and fortifications. In 1539 the \nabbey was seized by Henry VIII. \n\nA subterranean stream from Lough Lein turns a small mill in the village, \njust as it issues from the rock. This stream may have given the name to \nthe place, which according to O\'Donovan was, traditionally and locally, Baile \nJ^obhar, the town of the spring. This lonely town lies at the head of a val- \nley under the cliffy hill called the Ben of Fore, 710 feet high ; and near \nthe other end is the small Lough Glore, well known to anglers. Monastic \nruins \xe2\x80\x94 at Farranemanagh, Kilbeggan, Kilmocahill \xe2\x80\x94 are still in existence, and \nvestiges of remote antiquity may be traced at Ballintubber and Moycashel, \ntut those known to have existed at Tristernagh, and other places, are de- \nstroyed. \n\nThe famed hill of Usneach \xe2\x80\x94 supposed to be Laberos, the inland city men- \ntioned by Ptolemy \xe2\x80\x94 a long, swelling eminence, lying east and west, is four miles \nnorthwest of the Castletown station of the Midland Railway. Here great con- \nventions of the States were held. Here, too, Tuathal the acceptable instituted \nthe feast of Beltane ; where, ever after, the pagan Irish celebrated their festivi- \nties and lighted their Druidic fires on the first of May. After the abandonment \nof Tara, Usneach was probably one of the chief places for legislative meetings. \nThe hill has never been submitted to the plow. It has two summits, one of \nwhich, the eastern, is occupied by an ancient cemetery. A broad avenue, the \nlines of which are still traceable, led to it from the south. A paper read by \nFerguson, the poet, before the Royal Irish Academy, in 1872, presented some \ninteresting facts, accompanied by a plan of the cemetery and the tumuli, in \nthe opening of which on the western division, the mouth of a cave was dis- \ncovered. \n\nFrom Mullingar to Athlone, the country is undulating, fertile, and well culti- \nA^ated. It is a rich grazing district, and great attention is paid to the breeding of \nall kinds of cattle, the oxen and horses being of superior character. On leaving \nLough Ree, two miles above, the Shannon resumes its river character, sweeps \nIts great volume of water through the center of Athlone, forming in its progress \nthe boundaries of the provinces of Connaught and Leinster, and leaving one half \nof the town in Westmeath, and the other in Roscommon. The new bridge and \nriver quays are great modern improvements in Athlone, the most considerable \ntown between Dublin and Galway ; and its position on the Shannon has long \nrendered it a place of great military importance. \n19 \n\n\n\nLONGFORD. \n\n\n\n\nMaria Edged oj th s Raic/ince \n\n\n\nThe small and inland County of Longford, as before remarked, was until \nthe tirrie of Elizabeth, a portion of Meath. Its aspect is not remarkable for \npicturesqueness, being flat, except on its northern extremity ; but its chief towns, \nLongford, Edgeworthstown and Granard, are notable for cleanliness. It is well \nwatered, having on the west Lough Ree and the Shannon, and their tributaries, \nthe Rinn, the Camlin and Inny, intersecting the county in their courses to them. \nThe chief interest of the county is derived from its associations with the name \nand labors of Maria Edgeworth and her family ; and from the still greater dis- \ntinction of having been the birthplace of Oliver Goldsmith, and its neighbor- \nhood the inspiration of his best known and exquisite poetical delineations. \n\nPassing Multifernam on the branch line from Mullingar, the next station is \nEdgeworthstown, which, though in a position of natural bleakness, is rendered \nsomewhat attractive and the prospect relieved by hedgerows of Canadian pop- \nlar, which have been largely introduced. Edgeworthstown House is cheerful \nand commodious, and the demesne abundantly planted. In addition to the \ngreat claims on popular regard Maria Edgeworth may have for her moral tales \nand early exposure of the evil of absenteeism and rack-renting in Ireland, she \n\n290 \n\n\n\nLONGFORD. \n\n\n\n291 \n\n\n\n\nRuins of Goldsmith\'s Early Home. \n\n\n\nmight almost be assured an immortality for having moved Scott "first to think \nthat something might be attempted for his \nown country of the same kind with that which \nMiss Edgeworth so fortunately achieved for \nIreland." " The Magician of the North " \nvisited Miss Edgeworth here in 1825, and en- \njoying his great welcome, was also "delighted \nto find neither mud hovels nor naked peasan- \ntry, but snug cottages and smiling faces all \nabout." His party, as described in Lockhart\'s \nLife, also pleased themselves " with recog- \nnizing some of the sweetest features in Gold- \nsmith\'s picture of \' Sweet Auburn.\' " \n\nPallas, or Pallasmore on the Inny, two \nmiles from Ballymahon," is the birthplace of \nGoldsmith. The scene of " The Deserted \nVillage," Lissoy \xe2\x80\x94 known for a century as \nAuburn \xe2\x80\x94 is about two miles distant over the \nLongford border in Westmeath. During Oliver\'s infancy his father, a poor \ncurate and farmer, removed to Lissoy, and here the brother to whom " The \nTraveller " was dedicated resided after the father\'s death. It was the home of \nthe poet\'s youth, that period when he received the impressions of the surrounding \nobjects which are so picturesquely retained in the memory. Standing by the \nsite of \n\n" The hawthorn bush, with seats beneath the shade, \nFor talking age and whispering lovers made," \n\nthe tourist will recognize many interesting topographical reminiscences of the \n\npoem. The " never-failing brook still bab- \nbles ;" the "busy mill" is silent, the "decent \nchurch " still tops the neighboring hill ; the \n"village preacher\'s modest mansion " \xe2\x80\x94 either in \nmoon-light or noon-light recalling some of the \nsweetest pictures of life in literature \xe2\x80\x94 the \n" Three Pigeons," where nut-brown draughts, \n\n" And news much older than the ale went round ; " \n\nof which he gives us a more vivid inkling in "She Stoops to Conquer," all are visi- \nble in ruins, and excite feelings which only the loving touch of genius can evoke. \n\n\n\n\nThe Site of the Hawthorn Bush. \n\n\n\n\nSCENES IN GOLDSMITH\'S "DESERTED VILLAGE." \n\n\n\n\nCopyright, 1879, by Thomas Kelly. New York. \n\n\n\n\nCopyright, ISJS.by ThomnB Kelly, New York \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n. -i j^-^\'i^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nP\'u\'TX/ in Phcenix Park. \n\nDublin is admitted by all traveled tourists of taste to be magnificently situ- \nated, and to present, on every side, such a variety and succession of delightful \nscenes, as are scarcely to be met with around any other capital in the world. \nTaking a radius of twelve miles from the center of the city, the scenic resources, \nboth by sea, land, and stream, are numerous and surpassingly attractive ; the \nnatural beauties being largely enhanced by the cultivation generally apparent. \nThe extent indicated includes all the charming coast-line from Bray Head on \nthe southeast, to beyond Malahide Bay on the northeast, embracing the bold \n\n293 \n\n\n\n294 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nand far-jutting promontory, the Hill of Howth ; while inland we find every \nvariety of sylvan aspect from the. Round Tower of Lusk on the north, to the \nhead of Kippure, some 2,500 feet high, on the south ; and between these points, \nthe Vale of Shanganagh rising from the beach between Bray Head and Killiney \nand lapping up on the Wicklow Mountains ; back of this the Dublin Mountains \nand Glanismole, the Vale of Thrushes, with the windings of the Dodder ; the \nValley of the Liffey with the famous Strawberry Beds, Lucan, and the Salmon \nLeap at Leixlip ; the scenery of the Tolka and its literary and poetical associa- \ntions with Tickell, Swift, Addison, Parnell and others ; and the Green Lanes ex- \n\n\n\n\nHowth Harbor and Light-House. \n\ntending northward from Drumcondra and Clontarf in the direction of Swords and \nMalahide ; while within the western circumference of the circle are many plea- \nsant spots in Kildare and Meath. The eastward scope of the circle embraces the \nfar-famed Bay of Dublin, the beauties of which have been enthusiastically lauded \nin prose and verse. Willis said its shores presented all the various features, \nfrom the rugged and severe to the soft and smiling, in landscape scenery. Hall \nsays it is at once safe, commodious and magnificent, with every variety of coast, \nsandy beach, rough sea promontory, undulating slope, terrific rock : and in delight \nexclaims, " What a glorious impression of Ireland is conveyed to the eye and mind \nupon approaching the noble and beautiful Bay of Dublin! It is, indeed, inexpres- \nsibly lovely." Brewer, more than fifty years ago, said it presented " so noble a \ncombination of scenery, and affords at different points such attractive varieties, \nsuch fine interchanges of the soft and the august, that it has been often placed in \n\n\n\n\nDUBLIN. 295 \n\nrivalry with the Bay of Naples," which in many natural circumstances it resem- \nbles. Though wanting in the " lonely terrors of Vesuvius," he thought its charms \njustified the eulogy of Dr. Campbell, who said this single prospect would well \nrepay a journey to Ireland ; an opinion which may not be deemed extravagant, \nwhen so talented and experienced a delineator of the picturesque as Creswick \nthe artist, in our own day, said that " Dublin Bay, in an autumnal sunrise, pre- \nsented the finest prospect of nature he had ever seen." Of course so splendid a \ntheme could not fail to inspire native \n\ntalent to the exercise of pen and ^^sm^p"^ \n\npencil, but the fame of Dublin Bay, ^^ \n\nas our few quotations indicate, is safe \nin the hands of foreign artists. \n\nThe width of the bay, across the \nchord of the, arc from Dalkey Island \nunder Killiney Hill to Howth Head, \nis seven miles, and its depth from \nthis line to the city over four miles, \n\npresenting a nearly circular form. Al- -^^\'f^^^y -^i^i&SL^^^ K \n\nmost in the center, and from Rin^- \' -^ - \n\n\xc2\xb0 Hozuth Abbey. \n\nsend on the southern side of the Liffey \n\nthere runs out into the bay a mole or pier three and a half miles long,* the Pool- \nbeg light house at its extremity, and the Pigeon-House Fort less than half the dis- \ntance from the city. " I should like," writes a visitor to the meeting of the British \nAssociation, held in Dublin last year (1878), "to hear your ejaculations as the \nmail-boat, steering in from the open waters, passed the islets of Lambay and \nIreland\'s Eye, and then rounded the precipices and brown slopes of the Hill of \nHowth. Here, on the right, you would see a long silver strand stretching back \nfor miles until like one of Turner\'s pictures, the glittering ray became lost in the \ndark haze of the city. A little to the left, apparently standing out alone in the \nsea, is a light-house. It is noi alone, however, for as you draw near to it you will \nfind there is a breakwater of considerable length behind it, also running back to \nthe city. Between the strand and this light-house flows the channel, up which \ngo the steamers bound for Dublin. If, however, you are on the mail-boat, your \n\n* This pier is, we believe, longer than those usually recorded as among the longest in the world ; for instance, \nPlymouth Breakwater is 5,100 feet ; Rochelle Mole, 4,482 ; Palma Mole, Majorca, 3,550 ; Aberdeen, 2,000 ; and other \nconstructions of the sort, from the Mole of Genoa to the Ramsgate Piers vary from 2,800 in the former, to 800 feet in \nthe latter. \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nanchorage will not be in the river Liffey, but far away on the left, in the Royal \nHarbor of Kingstown. This, although the bay is seven miles wide, you have \nalso seen looming in the distance, as your four-funneled leviathan steamed past \nHowth and the Kish light-ship. But it is not till your wonder at the nearer \nenchantments has exhausted itself that your eyes become fixed on the many \nmiles of handsome marine villages, screened at the back by long ranges of undu- \nlating mountains, \nw h i c h, at the \nKingstown side \nof the bay, sweep \nupwards from the \nlimit of the waves." \nThe famed Hill \nof Howth \xe2\x80\x94 nearly \nan insulated prom- \nontory, the north- \nfe eastern guardian \nof the bay \xe2\x80\x94 is strik- \ningly picturesque \nin form, especially \nwhile sailing by its \nprecipitous, cliffs \nand resounding \n\ncaves \xe2\x80\x94 and in other respects it might supply materials for a most interesting \nvolume. It has abundant store of attractions for the geologist, botanist, and \nnaturalist ; and its various ancient monuments, of every class and age, from the \nregal fortress, the sepulchral cairn, and the cromlech of pagan times, to the early \nChristian oratory, the abbey, and the baronial hall of later times, would supply, \nin the opinion of Petrie, an ample stock for the antiquary and historian. Its \nancient name was Ben-Edair, the hill of oaks, indicating the luxuriance of \nthe woods which crowned it. It was also called Du7i-Crivithan, \'Crimthan\'s \nfort, from having been the residence of that monarch, " celebrated for his suc- \ncessful incursions into Britain, and the advantages he there obtained, not only \nover the natives, but some Roman forces in the time of Agricola." The great \nportion of the peninsula belongs to the estate of the Earl of Howth, and has \nbeen in uninterrupted possession of his ancestors since it was granted to Sir Ar- \nmoricus Tristram, in ii 77, for his gallantry in fight here. \n\n\n\n\nHowth Castle. \n\n\n\n\nHOWTH HEAD A.IMD L;J_ACil. \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n.i\\ \n\n\n\nOn the northern side of the promontory is the harbor, which was formerly \nthe mail-packet station of the port of Dublin, and the little fishing village which \ngives its name to the peninsula. The harbor is now all but deserted by vessels \nlarger than fishing boats ; but during the herring season it presents an interesting \nand animated scene, boats from all parts of Ireland, and from England, Scot- \nland, and Man, assembling here in hundreds ; steamers plying with the glittering \nfreight across the channel, and the piers crowded with " hands " selling or barrel- \ning for exportation. \n\nOn an eminence immediately over the harbor are the venerable ruins of \n\nHowth Abbey. It is sometimes called \nBalscadden Abbey, from the little bay \nof that name ; and is supposed to have \nbeen founded by the Ostmen in the \neleventh century. In the early part of \nthe thirteenth century (1235), when the \noriginal prebendal church of Howth \nwas transferred from Ireland\'s Eye to \nthe mainland, the Abbey of Howth was \ndedicated to St. Mary, Star of the Sea, \nand constituted a member of the chap- \nter of St. Patrick\'s Cathedral, being \nshortly afterward endowed by Almeri- \ncus, the ninth baron, with a grant of \nthirty acres of ground. An altar-tomb \nin the chancel, erected to Christopher, \nthe twentieth baron, and his lady, Eliza- \nbeth, is an interesting specimen. The \nknight is represented in the armor, and the lady in" the costume of the time. \nThe western gable sustains a bell turret pierced for three bells. The latter are \nstill preserved in Howth Castle, together with a huge two-handed sword, with \nwhich, it is traditionally reported, an ancestor of the St. Lawrences carved the \nfortunes of the family. A strong embattled wall surrounds the church and \ngrave-yard, adding considerably to the picturesque effect of the scene, and \npresenting " a striking evidence of the half-monk, half-soldier character of its \nfounders." Some curious-looking ancient houses upon the southeastern angle \nof the wall are said to have been used as a " college " by the monks, and are \nso designated. \n\n\n\n\nSi. DouUup\'/i\'s Church. \xe2\x96\xa0 \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n299 \n\n\n\nIn ascending the hill, over the village, our attention is attracted to the \nbays of Portmarnock, Malahide, and Portrane ; and as the Howth branch of the \nDublin and Drogheda Railroad invites to an excursion in this northern section \nbefore rounding the promontory and going to the city by Sutton and Clontarf, \nwe start in the direction of Malahide. \n\nSome three miles from Malahide, and half that distance from Portmarnock \nStation, may be visited the ruins of St. Doulough\'s Church, which is quite \nremarkable for its construction, and has long occupied the attention of writers \nupon Irish antiquities. It is a stone-roofed build- \ning, of oblong plan, with a low, square tower in \nthe center, and has been generally classed with \nthe structures of the early Irish saints, and of \nthe period of Cormac\'s Chapel, at Cashel ; but \nits architectural features more nearly resemble ^ \nthose of the thirteenth century. Near it is St ^ \nDoulough\'s Well, quite in keeping with the ^ \nchurch. The spring, which was thought to pos \nsess miraculous powers, is covered by a stone \nroofed octagonal temple, rises through a circular \nbasin cut out of a single stone, and supplies a \ncurious subterraneous bath close by. \n\nMalahide Station is next from Portmarnock \nwith the village on the right and Malahide Castle \nand demesne on the left. The village is well built, and pleasantly situated on \nan inlet of the Irish Sea, which is here crossed by the railroad on an embank- \nment eight feet above spring tide, with a viaduct of eleven arches, each fifty feet \nwide. In the middle of the town is an arch-covered well of very clear water, \ndedicated to the Blessed Virgin. The castle, or court, is large and irregular, \nalthough nearly square in its outward form, situated on a commanding eminence. \nMany historical and romantic associations are linked with the venerable structure. \n"On Whitsun Eve, in the year 1329," as recorded by Ware, "John de Birming- \nham, Earl of Louth, Richard Talbot, styled Lord Malahide, and many of their \nkindred, together with sixty of their English followers, were slain in a pitched \nbattle at Balbriggan, by the Anglo-Norman faction of the De Verdons, De Ger- \nnons, and Savages ; the cause of animosity being the election of the earl to the \npalatine dignity of Louth, the county of the latter party." It is believed that \nCromwell had his abode here for a short time ; and it is on record that Miles \n\n\n\n\nSt. Doiilov(rh\'s Well. \n\n\n\n300 \n\n\n\nPICTURE SO UE I RE LA ND. \n\n\n\nCorbet, " one of the regicides," resided in the castle for years, and took his flight \nhence when outlawed at the Restoration. The interior is even more interesting \nthan its turreted and battlemented exterior, presenting many antique features, \n\nand containing \nmany gems o f \nart. The apart- \nment of great- \nest curiosity is \nwainscoted \nthroughout with \noak, elaborately \ncarved in com- \npartments repre- \nsenting the his- \ntory of Adam \nand other scrip- \ntural subjects, \nsome of which \nare executed \nwith much skill ; \nthe chimney- \npiece is carved \nwith peculiar \nbeauty, having \nin the central di- \nvision figures of \nthe Virgin and \nChild. This fig- \nure of the Virgin \nis the subject of \na marvelous tra- \nMalahide Abbey. dition\xe2\x80\x94 that dur- \n\ning the civil wars, whilst the castle was in the possession of the Cromwellians, the \nstatue disappeared, but resumed its station after the return of the Talbot family. \nThe entire wainscoting is highly varnished, and has acquired a somber but \nstriking effect from a blackness of tint which causes the " oak chamber " to appear \nlike a vast cabinet of ebony. Adjoining this, is a spacious apartment containing \n\n\n\n\n\n\ns^*- \n\n\n\nTHE BAILEY LIGHT-HOUSE \n\n\n\n302 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nsome pictures of great value and interest, the principal of which is a small altar- \npiece by Albert Durer \xe2\x80\x94 representing the Nativity, Adoration, and Circum- \ncision \xe2\x80\x94 ^which had been in the oratory of Mary, Queen of Scots, at Holyrood, \nand for which Charles II. gave ;^2,ooo. He presented it to the Duchess of \nPortsmouth, a portrait of whom by Sir Peter Lely is also here. Of the others, \na Charles I., by Vandyke ; a Queen Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; a head, by \nRembrandt, and specimens by Annibale Caracci,\'Parmegiano, Hobbima, Wouver- \nmans, and George Barrett, the Irish landscape painter, are noteworthy. \n\nBeside the castle is Malahide Abbey, a picturesque ruin of a small church, the \nnave and choir of which are divided by a spacious gothic arch about the center \nof the building. What remains of the east window exhibits mullions and tracery \nof the perpendicular style. The western end supports the ivy-clad belfry. Owing \n\n_ to the hardness of the black stone \n\nor calp used, the canopies or drip- \nstones of the arches present an un- \ncommon sharpness in the moldings. \nOriginally the walls had embattled \nparapets. Most attractive of interest \nis an altar tomb, which, indicating a \ntale of youth, love, and romance, nat- \nurally incites the resources of fancy \nand human sympathy. The tomb is \nsurmounted by an effigy^ in bold relief \nof a female in the costume of the \nfifteenth century. It is sacred to the \nmemory of Lady Talbot, wife of Sir Richard, best known to romance as Maud \nPlunket, and by her earlier marriage to the son of Baron Galtrim, who was sum- \nmoned from the altar to defend the border, and was brought back on his wed- \nding day a corpse, leaving her the singular celebrity of having been a maid, wife, \nand widow on the same day. On this event, Gerald Griffin wrote his ballad \n" The Bridal of Malahide." \n\nCrossing over the shallow estuary, or inner bay of Malahide, we obtain views \nof the Round Tower of Swords, which we will reach presently. Passing the \nstation at Donabate, we arrive at Rush, a mile to the west of which are the \nchurch ruins and ancient Round Tower of Lusk. There was an abbey here in \nthe early ages of Christianity. St. Macculind, Bishop and Abbot of Lusk, died \nin 497. Cassan, the learned scribe, or " chronographer " of Lusk, died here in \n\n\n\n\nMalahide Castle. \n\n\n\n\n^ B a da d \n\n\n\n/ r / \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n303 \n\n\n\n695, and in the same or following year, St. Adamnanus held a synod in this \nabbey, at which the chief prelates of Ireland were present. The church was \nprobably erected on the site of the ancient abbey, and presents architectural fea- \ntures of a remarkable character. The chief parts of the building \xe2\x80\x94 which consists \nof two long aisles, that on the north being one hundred and fifty feet, divided \nby seven arches \xe2\x80\x94 are in the pointed style ; but at the west end is a square \nsteeple, attached to three angles of which are round towers, with graduated para- \npets. Close to, but detached from, the fourth angle, is a veritable ancient round \ntower, in a good state of preservation, the whole forming a striking group. \nUnder the steeple is a crypt, or vaulted chapel. The church contains several, \nsome elaborate, sepulchral monuments \xe2\x80\x94 notably \none in the south aisle, of Kilkenny and Italian \nmarble, to Sir Christopher Barnewall. \n\nTwo miles west of Malahide is the ancient \necclesiastical town of Swords. A monastery, \ndescribed as " sumptuous," was founded here \nby St. Columbkill in 512, over which he placed \nSt. Finian, the leper. It became a place of great \nimportance, and was ravaged and burnt four \ntimes during the eleventh and twelfth centuries. \nIts attractions now, are the vestiges of its past \nsplendor, consisting of the old Round Tower, the \nchurch tower, and the ruins of the former palace \nof the Archbishop of Dublin. The latter, show- \ning a considerable extent of the embattled wall, \nand the flanking towers of the court, is in the center of the town, and overlooks \nthe Swords River. The Round Tower \xe2\x80\x94 seventy-three feet high\xe2\x80\x94 on a knoll, is \ncontiguous to the old church tower, and both are in strong contrast to the neat, \nmodern edifice built on the site of the ancient place of worship. \n\nRetracing our steps to the village of Howth, we shall have time to enjoy its \ninteresting objects, scenes, and antiquities, even if we have not space to note \nmore than a few of them. On one of the elevations stands the Castle of Howth, \nembowered in foliage. From the heights above it, fine views of the demesne, \nthe harbor, the remarkable island of Ireland\'s Eye, Lambay and the coast, the \nglorious sea, and the beautiful bay, are to be had. The walls of the original \ncastle are standing near the new one, and are the notemarks to many legends of \ninterest. The estate has remained in the same family since the Anglo-Norman \n\n\n\n\nRound Tow tr ind Chunk \xe2\x80\x94 LusL \n\n\n\n304 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nincursion ; the original name of Tristram having been changed to that of St. Law- \nrence, in consequence of an oath taken by one of the family conducting a battle \non St. Lawrence\'s Day, that if successful he would take the name of the saint. \nA popular and apparently authenticated legend, resulting in hospitality, for cen- \nturies, is the following : \n\nWhen the celebrated sea-queen, Grace O\'Malley, or Gj\'anua aille, as the peo- \nple yet love to call her, was on her way back from the court of Elizabeth, she \nlanded at Howth in 1593, and with her attendants, passing the castle, observed that \nthe gates were barred. Upon inquiring, she learned that the gates were always \nshut at dinner time, to repel visitors. The Connaught idea of hospitality was \n\n\n\n\nRound Tower and Church \xe2\x80\x94 Swords. \n\n\n\nshocked at this churlishness, so, without more ado, she seized the heir of Howth, \nand carrying him off, refused to give him up till the St. Lawrences would cove- \nnant never, again to close their approaches during the midday meal ; a compact \nwhich we believe was kept sacred up to a recent period. \n\nThe Bailey light-house, two miles south from the village, on the point of a \nnarrow, rocky promontory projecting a quarter of a mile into the sea, is a spot of \nno less antiquarian than picturesque interest. Its name is by some derived from \nan ancient circular stone fortress which encircled the apex of the rock, and of which \nconsiderable remains existed previous to the erection of the present buildings. \nThis great keep was fortified by three earthen walls, with deep intervening \nditches at the entrance, which cut it off completely from the peninsula. These \n\n\n\nIllllliiilJiyJiiilyllillilltWiU \n\n\n\n\n3o6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nworks still remain, though in a very ruinous state ; yet they are sufficiently dis- \ntinct to convey a good idea of defensive works in extremely remote times. \nPopular tradition ascribes these, as many other things, " to the Danes," but the \nworks themselves bear evidence of belonging to an earlier age, and are "the re- \nmains of Duii-Criomthan (pronounced Dun-Criffan), the fortress of Criomthan \nNia-nair, who, according to the ancient histories, ascended the throne of Ireland \nin the year 74, and who, after being dethroned, died in this fastness in the year \n\n90. His sepulchral cairn \xe2\x80\x94 crowning \n\n-^^^ = the summit of Sliabh- Martin, the \n\n^^^7 highest pinnacle of the ancient Ben- \n\n^^ ^fc^^ ^ edair \xe2\x80\x94 is still to be seen." \n\nj^~ ^^^=5 ^ The island of Lambay, contain- \n\n^^ ing six hundred acres, and rising four \n\nhundred and eighteen feet above the \nsea, is a remarkable feature from both \nland and sea ; and Ireland\'s Eye, or \n" the world\'s wonder," a quartz forma- \ntion of fifty-three acres, rising boldly \nfrom the ocean, is even more so. The \nlatter contains the remains of an an- \ncient round tower, a modern martell \ntower, and the ruins of a penitential \ncell or chapel, erected by St. Nessan, \nwho founded an abbey on the island \nin 570, in which the book of the gospels known as the " Garland of Howth," \nwas said to have been preserved. \n\nThe circuit of Howth, from the terminus of the branch railway at the \nvillage, on the north, to Sutton, on the inner or west side, is six miles ; and is a \ndelightful walk or drive. Close by the latter, with the rocks above, and the \nbeach and bay in front, is the little ruined church of St. Fenton. It is very \nsmall, not more than sixteen feet by eight, yet it contains a belfry and five \nwindows, all splaying upon the interior, as in the most ancient stone build- \nings, for defense. Over the neck connecting Howth with the mainland is \nthe little fishing village of Baldoyle, and near to Sutton, on the bay, is the \nlonely grave-yard of Kilbarrack, with its storm-shattered church ruins. We \ncan proceed to the city by rail through Raheny and Drumcondra \xe2\x80\x94 where there is \na Catholic college \xe2\x80\x94 or along shore by the way of Dollymount and Clontarf, the \n\n\n\n\nSwords Castle, \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. 307 \n\nfamous battle-ground on which the great King of Ireland, Brian Boru, defeated \nthe Danes under Sitric, King of the Ostmen, on Good Friday (23d April), 1014. \nThe Irish victory was dearly purchased by the loss of Brian, who, at the close of \nthe battle, was found praying in his tent, and slain by Brodar. \n\nDublin, the capital of Ireland, and the largest, most populous, and most \nwealthy city in it, is not only the most beautiful city in the Emerald Isle, but one \nof the most beautiful in Europe. Some writers and travelers are of opinion \nthat, while it is not in extent, commerce, or wealth, equal to others, yet in position, \narchitectural embellishment, and variety of picturesque environment, it is the \nhandsomest city in the British dominions. It occupies the eastern end of the \ngreat central calcareous plane which reaches from the Irish Sea to the Atlantic. \nIt is intersected by the river Liffey, which divides it into nearly equal parts \xe2\x80\x94 \nnorth and south \xe2\x80\x94 and is also watered by the Cammock, which enters the Liffey \nat the west end, opposite the Phoenix Park, and by the Tolka and Dodder, which \nfall into the estuary at opposite sides, the former on the north at Clontarf, and \nthe latter on the south at Ringsend. \n\nDublin is a very ancient city, so ancient that the precise period of its founda- \ntion, like that of other famous towns, is wrapt in obscurity. The earliest authentic \naccount of it is in the writings of Ptolemy, a.d. 140, who mentions it as a city \nby the name of Eblana, the headquarters of the Eblani, who then occupied the \nseaboard of Meath and Dublin. Irish historians refer to it about the same \ntime, recording the partition of Ireland between Conn of the Hundred Fights, and \nEogan Mor, King of Munster, by a line from Dublin to Galway. In the year \nafter, the Munster king quarreled with Conn about the customs taken at Dublin, \nmore ships going to the northern than to the southern side ; and a battle ensued \nin which Eogan was defeated and slain, with his ally and brother-in-law Fregus, the \nson of the King of Spain. Thus without departing from the strict domains of his- \ntory, the city of Dublin has an antiquity of more than seventeen centuries. It \nis also mentioned by Joclyn, in his " Life of St. Patrick," as a "most noble city " \nat the time of the patron saint, who made many converts here, and baptized \nthem at a well on the south side \xe2\x80\x94 hence called St. Patrick\'s Well \xe2\x80\x94 near which \nthe cathedral was built. In 438, the Ostmen, or Danes, arrived in the Liffey \nwith a fleet of sixty ships ; they made a settlement on the northern shore of the \nstream, and having shown an intention to remain simply as colonists or peaceable \nsubjects of the Irish princes, were permitted to erect houses of hurdles and clay, \nand to build walls round about them. The country at the north side of the city \nwas designated by the native Irish as Fingall, or the land of the white strangers, \n\n\n\n^o8 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nand at the present day Finglas forms a part of Dublin. Soon another colony of \nDanes settled on the south side of the city, and their quarter was known as \nDubhgall, or country of the black strangers. The whole district at the mouth \nof the Liffey was known to the ancient Irish as Bally-Ath-Cliath-Duibhlin7ie, \n"the town of the ford of hurdles on the black water," because before the river \nwas embanked, the town was entered from the north side by means of hurdles \nplaced on the low, marshy, and muddy-black ground adjoining and flooded by \nthe tide. The Danish settlers called the territory by the last name Divelin, \nhence the title of Dublin. For three centuries afterward the Danes held posses- \nsion of their settlements, and no formidable effort was made to expel them \npermanently. In 853, Aulaffe Sitric, having arrived with a very formidable fleet \nin the Liffey, was elected King of Dublin ; the neighboring Irish princes made a \n\ntruce with him, and for \nthe first time the city \nwas placed in a thor- \nough state of defense, \nand fortified at every \npoint. \n\nThe Danes had now \nbecome most numerous, \nand explorations of re- \nmote parts of Ireland, \nand even incursions \ninto Wales, were undertaken by them. Battles were of frequent occurrence, but \nno Irish king succeeded in dislodging the Danes until the ever-memorable battle \nof Clontarf took place in 1014, when Sitric, after a long and obstinate engage- \nment, was utterly routed by Brian Boru. \n\nThe Danes fled to Dublin and Howth, where they confined themselves for \nmany years, purchasing quietude by the payment of vast sums in tribute to the \nKing of Leinster. It was during this term of repose that they erected in \nDublin the churches which to this day testify to the love of religion and art that \nprevailed amongst them at that time. The repose, however, was only temporary, \nfor the depredations of the Danes were resumed when an opportunity offered, \nfor years after. \n\nThe incursion of the Anglo-Normans, led by Strongbow and his associates, \nunder the auspices of Henry II. of England, to aid Dermod MacMurrogh, King \nof Leinster, in his feud with Roderick O\'Connor, King of Ireland, took place a \n\n\n\n\nXc-aj Rail-diay Station at Aortk Wail. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n309 \n\n\n\nhundred and fifty \nyears after the bat- \ntle of Clontarf; \nand among their \nother achievements \nwas the capture of \nDubUn. The suc- \ncesses of the adven- \nturers raised the \nsuspicion of Henry \nII., who announced \nthat he would him- \nself assume control, \nand set sail from \nMilford Haven \nwith four thou- \nsand men. He \nlanded at Water- \nford 1 8th October, \n1 1 71, and arrived \nat Dublin on the \nI 1 1 h November, \nwhere he erected \nan immense pavi- \nlion of polished \nosiers, and in it, be- \nneath a regal can- \nopy, entered into \ncompacts of pro- \ntection with numer- \nous Irish chiefs. \nHe passed the \nChristmas in Dub- \nlin, entertaining \nthe natives with \no-reat ostentation ; \nbut he was in a \n\n\n\n\n3IO \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nconstant state of perplexity for want of foreign intelligence, the severe and \nstormy weather preventing communication. When the weather moderated, his \nperplexity was not decreased by the news of threatened interdiction by Rome \nfor his complicity with the assassination of A\'Becket \xe2\x80\x94 and that his queen and \nsons had entered into a conspiracy to dethrone him. He bestowed upon ten of \nhis adherents, by charter and Norman law, the whole of Ireland, except the \ntowns on the eastern coast, which he kept under his own control, and sailed from \nWexford on the 17th of April, 11 72. \n\nOf course it would be impossible in our limit to give even a meager outline \nof the history of so ancient a city as Dublin ; and in such references as we must \nnecessarily make we can only indicate the epochs and events around which the \n\ndeveloping transactions oc- \n\n_z_ =rE^^^^^ __ curred which tended toward \n\nthe commercial growth, corpo- \nrate extension, intellectual rep- \nutation, and political impor- \ntance of the city. \n\nDe Lacy, Palatine of \nMeath, was the representative \nof Henry H. the year after the \nAnglo-Norman invasion. He \nwas succeeded by John, son of \nthe king, a parliament held at \nOxford in 11 77 having given \nhim the title of Lord of Ire- \nland. He arrived in. Dublin accompanied by a train of young noblemen, who \nwere so disappointed at not finding suitable housing prepared for them, that \nJohn, when elevated to the throne, was easily persuaded to make a grant for the \nerection of a castle. This king visited Ireland in 12 10, and amid " the parade of \nmany idle festivities," instituted " a regular code and charter of laws," and estab- \nlished courts for their administration. He left John de Gray, Bishop of Nor- \nwich, in charge of the government, who caused pence and farthings to be coined \nof the same value as those in England. On this coin was " the king\'s head in \na triangle," the latter supposed to be a rude representation of a harp. In 1215 \nJohn granted a license to the citizens of Dublin to erect a bridge over the Liffe}^ \nOn the appearance of Edward Bruce before Dublin, in 1316, the citizens in alarm \nset fire to Thomas Street, the flames of which spreading destroyed " St. John\'s \n\n\n\nr^ r [^1 ^ l\\ \n\n\n\nnirfl\' \n\n\n\nBirnnnsiJiam Tower \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n311 \n\n\n\nJ \n\n\n\nChurch, Magdalen Chapel, and all the suburbs." " St. Mary\'s Abbey was de- \nstroyed, and St. Patrick\'s Church was rifled by the enemy. The Church of the \nDominicans was also razed, and the stones of it employed in building and repair- \ning the city walls, which were enlarged on the north part and extended to the \nquays." Richard II. spent several months in Dublin in 1394, and having brought \nthe crown jewels with him, maintained a court of greater splendor in the Irish \ncapital than had ever been witnessed there. Five years later he was in Dublin \nagain, and received here the news preluding his ruin \xe2\x80\x94 in the claim of young \nHenry of Lancaster on the crown. \n\nIn 1407, Henry IV. granted a license that the mayor of Dublin, and his suc- \ncessors forever, should bear before them a gilded sword, in the same manner as \nthe mayors of London, In i486, Lambert Simnel, the impostor, was crowned \nking in Christ\'s Church Cathedral, \nunder the title of Edward VI., in n "T^ - \n\npresence of the mayor and citi- \nzens, who were influenced by the \nexample of the lord deputy, Gerald, \nEarl of Kildare, the lords of the - \' \ncouncil, and other persons of distinc- \ntion, to assist at the ceremony. The \ncrown used on the occasion was taken _ \nfrom a statue of the Blessed Virgin \nin a church dedicated to her near \nDames\' Gate. In the next year the \nmayor, Jenico Marks, and citizens made an apology to and craved clemency of \nHenry VII.; upon which Sir Richard Edgecombe was sent over to take the \nhomage and oaths of the Irish nobility, and give them the king\'s pardon, which \nwas done at Guildhall. Fire-arms were first brought to Dublin from Germany \nin 1489, and in the next year the first claret was imported. \n\nHenry VIII., when Duke of York, aged four years, was appointed lord lieu- \ntenant, with Sir Edward Poynings as deputy. The latter landed at Howth, 13th \nOctober, 1494, was installed in Dublin, swore In a council of English associates, \nand convened a parliament of English subjects. The most memorable public \nact passed during this administration was that which became notorious as " Poy- \nnings\'s law," which prohibited the meeting of any parliament of the English sub- \njects in Ireland without license under the great seal of England ; and declared \nthat statutes should not be legal unless previously approved of by the viceroy \n\n\n\n\nW \n\n\n\nChrist Church Cathedral \n\n\n\n312 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nand colonial privy council, and sanctioned by the king and his council in Eng- \nland. This ordinance subverted the independence of the parliaments of the \nAnglo-Irish. The colonists, at the time of its enactment, were led to regard it \nin the light of a protection against the legislative oppressions occasionally at- \ntempted by the viceroys.""\' As king, Henry VIII. laid a heavy and sacrilegious \nhand on Ireland. Among the monasteries dissolved by him was that of All Hal- \nlows, which he gave to the citizens in return for "their valor in putting down" \nthe revolt of Lord Thomas Fitzgerald, surnamed "Silken Thomas" from the \nelegance and richness of his equipments. Elizabeth enhanced the gift by found- \n\n\n\n\nSt. Patrick\'s Cathedral \xe2\x80\x94 Southeast. \n\n\n\ning on it the University of Dublin, which was opened in the year 1593. James I. \nmade immense confiscations with the design of creating and sustaining " an Eng- \nlish interest in Ireland." This was the touchstone of the Stuart policy, which was \nto be furthered and fostered, at all hazards, by every intrigue, and the sacrifice \nof every vow and tie, religious, legal, and political.f \n\nIn the civil wars of the seventeenth century, Dublin, as the seat of vice- \nregal government, was the theater of important transactions. In 1647 the Mar- \nquis of Ormond resigned his office of lord lieutenant, and delivered up the city \n\n\n\n* Historyi of the Viceroys of Ireland ; with Notices of the Castle-of Dublin, etc., by J. T. Gilbert, Esq., Member of \nthe Council and Librarian of the Royal Irish Academy ; author of A History of the City of Dublin, etc. Dublin, 1S65. \nChap. xii. \n\nf The Struggle for Irish Natioimlity, hy John Savage. Boston, 1S6S. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n313 \n\n\n\nto commissioners ap- \npointed by Parlia- \nment ; on behalf of \nwhich Colonel Mi- \nchael Jones was ap- \npointed governor, \nand succeeded in \nholding Dublin for \nthat party. In Jan- \nuary, 1659, Lord \nMontgomery, Sir \nOliver St. George, \nand other persons of \nconsequence, in the \ninterest of the resto- \nration of Charles II., \nseized Dublin Castle \nand Governor Jones, \nin the name of the \ngovernment commis- \nsioners, and declared \nfor a free parliament. \nOn the petition of \nthe mayor and alder- \nmen they summoned \na convention of es- \ntates, which, in the \nyear following, ac- \ncepted the declara- \ntions of Charles at \nBreda, and the res- \ntoration was accom- \nplished so far as \nIreland was con- \ncerned. Shortly af- \nterward Charles II. \ncomplimented the \n\n\n\n\n314 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ncity of Dublin with a collar of SS., and in 1665 the chief magistrate was honored \nwith the title of lord mayor, Sir Daniel Bellingham being the first who bore that \nstyle, and the king granted five hundred pounds a year forever to support the dig- \nnity. A national synod of the Catholic clergy was held in Dublin in 1666 ; and \nin 1670 the noted Blue Coat Hospital \xe2\x80\x94 one of the greatest of the city\'s charities \nof that time \xe2\x80\x94 was erected. Among improvements of the same year may be \nmentioned the planting of trees round St. Stephen\'s Green, the construction of \nthe watercourse of the city basin ; the laying of the water pipes through the \ncity ; and the placing of chimes in St. Patrick\'s Cathedral (eight bells), in Christ \nChurch Cathedral (six bells), and in St. Catherine\'s (five bells). The next year \nthe Dublin apprentices made a demonstration at Bloody Bridge \xe2\x80\x94 so called from \nthe fatal character of the affray. \n\nThe year 1687 is memorable, in the city annals, for excessive rains and \n\nstorms, causing a \ngreat inundation of \nthe Liffey, by which \npart of Essex Bridge \nwas carried off. This \nwas regarded by some \nas a "judgment," as \nthe stones of St. Ma- \nry\'s Abbey were used \nin building the bridge. \nThe inundation was verj\' destructive, sweeping away buildings, men, cattle, and \ngoods. Boats plied in Patrick Street and the Coombe ; and among the damage \nwas the bearing away of a mill which stood at the foot of Bloody Bridge, and a \ncoach and horses which were crossing Essex Bridge at the crisis of the calamity. \nHaving landed at Kinsale in 1689, James II. arrived in Dublin on the 24th \nMarch. He summoned a parliament in the King\'s Inns, May 7th, which sat until \n2d July. After the battle of the Boyne he fied to Dublin, slept one night in \nthe Castle, and continued his flight to Waterford, where he took shipping for \nFrance. William III. followed \xe2\x80\x94 encamped at Finglas, made a grand military \nentry into the city, and proceeded to St. Patrick\'s Cathedral, where a splendid \nthanksgiving service was held for his victory. In 1697 the old parish of St. \nMichan\'s, which included all the city north of the Liffey, was by act of parlia- \nment divided into three parishes, the new^ St. Michan\'s, St. Paul\'s, and St. \nMary\'s, and churches erected in the two latter by parish tax. \n\n\n\n\nSti-ons^bow\'s Monicmeiit \xe2\x80\x94 Christ CliurcJi. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n315 \n\n\n\nDuring the seventeenth century the city of Dublin greatly increased in ex- \ntent and style. The maps and plans of 1610 show that the city walls, including \nthose of the Castle, were little more than an Irish mile in their entire length. At \nthis period it was only castles, towers, churches, and monasteries that were built \nof stone or brick. Up to the time of Elizabeth, private buildings were neither \nconvenient nor durable. When some little respite from war occurred in the reign \nof James I., the inhabitants of Dublin began to use brick and stone in building \nresidences, and covered them with tiles or slates. At that time the Liffey was \nnot embanked by quays on the north side, and only a part of it on the south. \nWith the exception of a small part near the King\'s Inns, which had been a Do- \nminican Friary, the \xe2\x80\x9e __- \n\n^t,^ "./ .-^^ \n\n\n\n^cgY" ^^ \n\n\n\n\nCrypt \xe2\x80\x94 Christ Church, \n\n\n\nground from the North \nWall, and where the \nCustom House now \nstands, along the line \nof fine embankment \nnow occupied by Eden \nQuay, Bachelor\'s Walk, \nthe two Ormond Quays, \nInn\'s Quay, Arran \nQuay, Ellis\'s and Pem- \nbroke Quays, was cov- \nered with ooze and \noverflowed by the tides. \nThe whole of the city, on the north of the Liffey, called Ostman Town \n(corruptly Oxmantown), was embraced between St. Mary\'s Abbey on the \neast, and Church Street (so called from St. Michan\'s Church) on the west, \nand extending from Pill Lane nearly to where afterward was built the jail called \nNewgate, in Green Street. Of course the spaces westward from Church Street \nto Arbor Hill and the Barracks, and eastward from St. Mary\'s Abbey to the \nCustom House and Ballybough Bridge, have since been added. Grange-Gor- \nman, Stonnybatter, Glasmanogue, etc., long since in the city, were then villages \nat a distance from it : indeed, so remote was the latter, that mayors\' and sheriffs\' \ncourts were held there in times of the plague. On the south of the Liffey, the \ncity centered round and under the Castle ; Dame Street was only a short range \nof buildings backing on the river, from which it is now separated by a large popu- \n\n\n\n3i6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nlation ; and a vast portion of the present city from this point to Ringsend has been \nreclaimed from the dominion of water.* The streets were narrow and irregular, \nand the general aspect by no means such as to warrant any expectation that Dub- \nlin would in a century and a half become a large and beautiful city, such as to \ncommand intelligent and enthusiastic admiration and, to some extent, indicate \nthe scale of magnificence to which the public spirit of its citizens has since ad- \nvanced it. A reference to this subject from a popular work published more than \n\na century ago,f will ajo- \npropriately continue to \nillustrate the progress \nof Dublin, from the \nend of the seventeenth \nto the middle of the \neighteenth century : \n\n" The increase of \nDublin, within twenty \nyears last past, is incre- \ndible, and it is generally \nsupposed that four thou- \nsand houses have been \nadded to the city and \nsuburbs since the reign \nof Queen Anne. This \ncity, in its appearance, \nbears a near resem- \nblance to London. The \nhouses are of brick, the \nold streets are narrow \nand mean, but the new \nstreets are more elegant and better planned than those of the metropolis of \nGreat Britain. Sackville Street, which is sometimes called The Mall, is particu- \narly noble. The houses are elegant, lofty, and uniformly built, and a gravel walk \n\n\n\n\ny\\( ; in Jii J ) \n\n\n\nL / ) n/ (. /lit/ h \n\n\n\n* See Warbiirton, Wiitelaw, and Walsh\'s Histoiy of the City of Dublin, 2 vols. 4to. Gilbert\'s Hist, of the Same, \n3 vols. 8vo, 1861. \n\nt A Ne-iu System of Modern Geography ; or, a Geographical, Ilisloiieal, and Coniniercial Grammar. By Wm. Guth- \nrie, 1770. The author of this work was a Scotchman, a voluminous writer of books, contributor to 7\'he Gentleman\'s \nMagazine, Ciitieal Review, etc. See Allibone\'s Diet, of Authors. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n317 \n\n\n\nruns through the whole, at an equal distance from the sides. Stephen\'s Green \nis a most extensive square, being one mile in circumference ; it is partly laid out \nin gravel walks like St. James\'s Park, with trees on each side, in which may be \nseen, in fine weather, a resort of as much beauty, gayety, and finery as at any of \nthe public places in England. . . . Indeed, whatever way a stranger turns \nhimself in this city, he will perceive a spirit of elegance and magnificence, and if \nhe extends his view over the whole kingdom, he will conclude that works of orna- \n\n\n\n\nSt Pt/uc/ i dihedral \xe2\x80\x94 East \n\n\n\nment and public utility in Ireland, keep pace with those erected in the different \nparts of Great Britain. For it must be acknowledged that no nation in Europe, \ncomparatively speaking, has expended such sums as the grants of the Irish Par- \nliament, which has been, and continues to be the life and soul of whatever is \ncarried on ; witness the many noble erections, churches, hospitals, bridges, the \nforming of harbors, public roads, canals, one of which is now cutting across the \nkingdom to Dublin, and many other public and private undertakings." \n\n\n\n3i8 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nThe most notable events and improvements which command admiration for \npractical public purposes and as illustrating the advance of arts, letters, benevo- \nlence, and general civilization during the period summarized were briefly : the \nbuilding of the Tholsel (Toll-stall), where the lord mayor held his court, in 1683, \nand the Royal Hospital, Kilmalnham, on the site of a priory of Knights Templars, \nin 1684; the enlargement of Trinity College, and the act for the erection of \n\nlamps in the \ncity, in 1697 ; \nthe embank- \nment of the \nLiffey in 1714, \nthe opening \n- of the Linen \nHall in 1728; \nthe erection \nof the North \nWall in the \n3 e a r follow- \nmg, the build- \n1 n g of the \nMusic Hall in \nCrow Street \n\nin 1730, on the foundation of which the famous theater was afterward built ; the \ncompletion of the college library in 1732 ; the opening of two theaters in Rains- \nford and Aungier streets, in 1733 ; and of Steevens\' Hospital \xe2\x80\x94 bequest of Dr. \nSteevens \xe2\x80\x94 this year, and Mercer\'s Hospital \xe2\x80\x94 gift of Mrs. Mary Mercer \xe2\x80\x94 in the \nnext ; the founding of St. Patrick\'s Hospital by Dean Swift, in 1745 ; and the \nincorporation in i 746 of the Dublin Society, from whose schools some of the most \neminent artists of modern times have issued ; the commencement of the South \nWall and Mole from Ringsend in 1748 ; the foundation of the Lying-in Hospital \nin 1751 ; the opening of Crow Street Theater in 175S ; the beginning of the \nGrand Canal in i 765 ; the founding of the Royal Exchange (the present City \nHall), in 1769; and the establishment of the penny post for the city and a \ncircuit of four miles in 1773; besides the erection of several bridges, markets, \nchurches, schools, hospitals, monuments, and the construction of streets too \nnumerous to particularize. \n\nFrom the Restoration the Parliament sat in Chichester House, which stood \n\n\n\n\nSt Patuck s Cathtdril \xe2\x80\x94 ^oii/h \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n319 \n\n\n\non what was afterward the site of the Houses of ParHament, and it was within \nthis building the struggle for the legislative independence of Ireland began. \nAfter the misery and depression of the rebellion, the Croniwellian era, and the \nwar between James and William, came the Penal Statutes, the object of which \nwas to bar the estates which repeated confiscations had given the Anglo-Protes- \ntant colonists of the sixteenth and seventeenth centu- \nries from ever descending to Catholic hands. The \nparticular act to enforce this was passed by the Irish \nParliament in 1703. But it has been shown in many \na speech of oratorical and truthful splendor, that the \nParliament from 1688 to 1782 was a mere cipher \nnamed by Government, without any reference to na- \ntional feeling. \n\nIn 1729, Parliament sat in the Blue Coat Hospital, \nwhen the struggle between the patriots of those days \nand the corruptionists representing the Government, \nresulted in a close parliamentary contest and victory \nfor the former, which marks an era. Under the viceroy- \nship of the Duke of Dorset, a gross attempt was made \nto grant the supplies set aside for the payment of the \nprincipal and interest of the national debt (^200,000), \nto the king (George II.), and his successors forever. \nThis proposition was violently resisted by the patriots, "^ ijt^ M numetit. \n\nwho asserted the unconstitutionality of voting the sum for a longer period than \nfrom session to session. Defeated in this, the Government sought to grant it for \ntwenty-one years, when a warm debate ensued. As the division was taking \nplace, the ministerialists and patriots being equal, Colonel Tottenham, an op- \npositionist, entered amid great excitement, and, doubtless in his haste to appear, \ndressed in boots, which was contrary to the prescribed full-dress etiquette of \nthe house. He gave his vote to the patriots ; and thus by a majority of one the \nGovernment was defeated by " Tottenham in his boots," the memory of which \nwas honored as a patriotic toast, and long preserved in all social meetings. \n\nThe first meeting of Parliament in the new houses in College Green was \nheld on the 5th October, 1731, and the words of request and warning commenced \nat Chichester House now developed into the most vehement attacks on the \ntyrannies of Government and the audacious corruptions of the departments. Of \ncourse it is outside of our design and space to enter into details ; but a few illus- \n\n\n\n\n320 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ntrative incidents will sufficiently indicate the position of parties, the rampant \naudacity of the one, the as defiant dignity of the other, and the progress of Parlia- \nment toward the great reform which followed : and is inseparable from an his- \ntorical notice of Dublin. In 1753, a surplus remaining in the treasury, the Com- \nmons brought in a bill to apply it to the payment of the national debt. The \n\nDuke of Dorset told them that the king \n" consented" and recommended them " to \nso apply it." Consent involved a princi- \nple, and the Commons took fire at the \nword. They sent the bill to England, \ntaking no notice of the royal consent, \nand it was returned with the consent in- \ntroduced. The patriots were not strong \nenough to resist the interpolation, but \nnext year they rejected the bill which \nhad the same unconstitutional word. \nThe king cut the matter short, by his \nletters patent taking the money out of \nthe treasury. This act of simple despot- \nism excited such rage among the people \nthat the Duke of Dorset, previously a \nmost popular viceroy, fled the country in \nabject fear.* \n\nIn 1757, the House with its Speaker attended the viceroy with a request that \nhe should lay certain resolutions relating to the public accounts before the king. \nThe viceroy gave a quibbling answer and refusal ; whereon a division ensued on \nthe question whether the reply was satisfactory, and the Government was beaten \nby a majority of twenty-one. " It was important to have cleared the way to the \nking, but more important to have chastised the insolence of his deputy." \n\nAmong the greatest measures carried by the patriots was the Octennial Bill. \nOne of the chief objects for which the persistent patriot Lucas had struggled \nwas to limit the duration of Parliament. The lease for life which members held \nin their seats rendered responsibility a delusion \xe2\x80\x94 and the length to which their \ncorrupt services might thus extend made the wages of servility enormous. It \nwas an evil of serious magnitude ; Lucas met it with his accustomed boldness, \n\n\n\n\nSwift\'s BirtliphiL \n\n\n\n* Tlif //isliiry of //ir ]\'oIunlcers of \\-]?,n., chap. i. ; 1)y Thom.is MacNevin. Dublin, 1846. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n321 \n\n\n\nand at length triumphed. The Octennial Bill passed both houses, and when on \nFebruary 16, 1768, the viceroy, Lord Viscount Townshend, gave the royal assent \nlimiting the du- \nration of Parlia- \nment to eight \nyears, the horses \nwere taken from \nhis carriage and \nthe people drew \nhim home. It \nwas a great mea- \nsure then, al- \nchough found \nincommensurate \nto the expecta- \ntions of the pa- \ntriots. The real \nadvantages were \nfound in the \nprinciple fought \nfor, and the \nspirit displayed \nin the debates,* \nThe next Parlia- \nment after the \npassing of the \nOctennial Bill, \nmet on the i 7th \nOctober, 1 769 ; \nand, as Ma c- \nNevin says, the \n\nstruggle between the English interest and the patriots was never more violent, \nand never more successful on the part of the friends of the people. The Irish \nCommons refused to pass a money bill sent from England, on the ground that \n" it had originated in the English Privy Council, and not in the Irish Legisla- \n\n\n\n\nSt Pit) id i Ciilitd} -il\xe2\x80\x94Infiiioi \n\n\n\n* MacNevin\'s //\xc2\xab/., p. 50. \n\n\n\n322 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nture." The viceroy Townshend sought to place his protest on the books of the \nComnions ; but they would not permit " so gross an encroachment on their \nprivileges." The bill was again refused by ninety-four to seventy-one, with a \ndeclaratory resolution that it was rejected because it did not originate in the \nIrish Commons ; and the fight continued until, to hide his discomfiture, the \nviceroy prorogued the Parliament in a brief but offensive speech, " which the \nHouse, with great spirit, refused to insert upon their journals." \n\nThis state of affairs was heightened by the events which led to the war in \nAmerica ; and the necessity which led to the raising of the Armed Volunteers \nin Ireland. The English master of the rolls in Ireland declared that " the \nParliament of England had a right to tax Ireland in all cases whatsoever as well \nas America ; " thus suggesting an identity of grievance and identity of resistance. \nThe analogy was entirely complete, as MacNevin suggests, when the arms of \nAmerica vindicated her freedom, and when the Constitution of Ireland was re- \nstored by the Declaration of Rights. The infatuated English Ministry, says a \nrecent English writer, looked with helpless consternation at the giant specter, \nthe Irish Volunteers, they had contributed to raise. " They broke up, in their \nown weakness, and their successors conceded what it was no longer practicable \nto withhold, and recognized Ireland as a Free Nation, with a Legislature Inde- \npendent and Supreme." The declaration of surrender to the Irish Parliament \nwas made on the i6th of April, 1782, before an excited House, filled in every \npart with members, Volunteer officers, ladies of rank and beauty, and the leading \ncitizens. \n\nIn the year following the independence of the Irish Parliament, the Order \nof the Knights of Saint Patrick was instituted, February 5th, and the first instal- \nlation of Knights Companions was held on the 17th March following, in St. \nPatrick\'s Cathedral. The general post-office of Ireland was established in 1784, \nand in 1786 the Royal Irish Academy was incorporated, the foundation of the \nFour Courts laid, and a police established in the city. In 1789 the Royal Canal \nfor the north side of the Liffey was incorporated ; and in 1791 grants were made \nby Parliament for docks on the north and south sides of the port ; the Apothe- \ncaries\' Hall established, the first steam engine erected in Dublin by Henry \nJackson, and a noted means of charity, the Society for the Relief of Sick and \nIndigent Room-keepers, established. An inundation of the sea in January, 1792, \nlaid much of the city under water ; and a month later a fire totally consumed the \nHouse of Commons. \n\nDuring the four years preceding 1798, Dublin witnessed many exciting and \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n323 \n\n\n\nV \n\n\n\n\noppressive transactions, which culminated in unexampled violence and infamy \nduring the reign of terror which distinguished and disgraced the year of the \nrebellion, and continued for as many years after. Among the leaders of the \nUnited Irishmen whose death on the scaffold or in jail was attended with cir- \ncumstances which have peculiarly elicited the attention of history, poetry, and \nromance, are the brothers Sheares, Oliver Bond, Dr. John Esmonde, Theo- \nbald Wolfe Tone, and Lord Edward Fitzgerald, who was surprised in bed at \nthe house of Nicholas Murphy, " a re- \nspectable feather-merchant " in Thomas \nStreet, on the 19th May, captured after \na desperate struggle, and died of his \nwounds in Newgate on the 3d of June. \n\nThe parliamentary independence of \nIreland was short-lived. After the dis- \nbandment of the Volunteers the Govern- \nment forced Ireland into rebellion in \'98; \nand Henry Grattan, who had rocked the \ncradle of " Irish Independence," also fol- \nlowed it to its grave. By means the \nmost scandalous, infamous, and corrupt, \nthe so-called Irish Parliament was in- \nduced to vote its rights away, and the Union was accomplished in 1800, and on \nNew-Year\'s Day, 1801, the imperial standard of the United Kingdoms of Great \nBritain and Ireland was first displayed on Bedford tower in the Castle, telling the \ncitizens of Dublin that they no longer had a house of parliament, that the \nnoble building which had resounded to eloquent appeals of justice and right, \nwas now only a monument to treachery and corruption. \n\nIn 1803, Dublin was again startled and astounded by the national movement \nknown as Emmett\'s Rebellion. The plot had been so adroitly managed, and the \nappearance of quiet so undisturbed in the city, that the Castle authorities could \nnot believe a movement was in contemplation. The accidental explosion of a \npowder depot in Patrick Street on the i6th July awakened them. The rising \ntook place a week later, and resulted in total discomfiture. Robert Emmett \nescaped to the Dublin Mountains, and might, in all probability, have made his \nescape out of the country. When pressed to avail himself of an opportunity to \ndo so, he said, " There is one to whom I must bid an eternal farewell, before the \nterrors of Government shall force me into exile." This one was Sarah Curran, \n\n\n\nRoom ill ivhicJi Lord Edward was \ncaptured. \n\n\n\n\nSACKVILL-E STREET- -GENERAL POST OFFICE. \n\n\n\n\nKELSON\'S PILLAR-FROM CARLISLE BRIDGE. \n\n\n\n326 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\ndaughter of the orator and advocate. In bidding her farewell he also bade fare- \nwell to hope and life. He was captured at Harold\'s Cross, tried and convicted \non the 19th September, and executed the next day on a temporary scaffold \nerected in Thomas Street nearly opposite St. Catherine\'s Church. \n\n" An American Tourist," who traveled through Ireland in the first decade of \nthis century, speaking of Dublin, said it presented the most extraordinary con- \ntrast of poverty and magnificence. The suburbs were composed of unseemly \nhovels, not exceeding twelve or fourteen feet square. Having passed these \n" miserable caves," the writer continues, " the dwellings improve; and, on reach- \ning Sackville Street, you imagine yourself in one of the most elegant cities in \nEurope. In walking over the city, the late Parliament House (now the Bank), \nthe Exchange, the quay along the Liffey, and several public squares, excite the \nstranger\'s admiration. There is no part of London which can compare with the \ncenter of Dublin in beauty and magnificence. But, in turning the eye from the \narchitectural splendor which surrounds him, upon the crowds which flow along the \nstreets, the stranger will be struck with the motley nature of the throng. Here is a \nlass almost buoyant with satin and feathers ; there is a trembling girl of eighteen, \npurple from cold, shrinking from shame, and drawing around her the poor rags \nwhich, with all her care, scarce cover the body ; here is an exquisite, perfuming \nthe air as he passes, with rings on his fingers, diamonds on his brooch, and a \ngemmed quizzing-glass at his side ; there is an honest fellow who cannot afford \na hat, whose feet, summer or winter, know not the luxury of shoe or stocking, \nand whose whole wardrobe consists of two articles, viz., a tattered jacket, and \nabout half a pair of small-clothes ; and, not to multiply pictures, while the lord \nlieutenant dashes by in a coach and four, the stranger gazes at this gallant and \ncostly pageant, while he empties his pocket to satisfy the throng of beggars who \npray him, in the name of God, to give them a penny." \' \n\nA writer in the Dublin Penny Joiirnal, commenting some thirty years subse- \nquent to the visit of the American Tourist on the observations of the latter, gives \nus an idea of the improvement which had taken place \xe2\x80\x94 at least in Dublin \xe2\x80\x94 in \nthe intervening period. " Happily for the citizen and the traveler," he says, \n" the last remark does not now apply, as beggars are not allowed on the streets ; \nthe Mendicity Society providing what is at least sufficient to keep them (the \nbeggars) from starvation. Should the American Tourist again have occasion to \nvisit the metropolis, he would find the state of things much improved, although \nit must be admitted, that in many parts of the interior of the country his de- \nscriptions would be found but too faithful delineations of what still really exists ; \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n327 \n\n\n\nbut, at least for a considerable distance around the city, the squalid wretched- \nness and the miserable dwellings he describes are not now to be met with." \n\nFrom the same writer we obtain a good idea of the growth of the city \xe2\x80\x94 in \ncontinuation of our suggestive record of its progress from the period of Guthrie\'s \ndescription \xe2\x80\x94 by his brief delineation of its chief features at that time \xe2\x80\x94 1835: "To \nthe eastward, on both sides of the river, streets and squares of the most spacious, \nairy, and elegant description have been erected within the last fifty years. Fitz- \nwilliam Square, together with several elegant streets, have recently been formed \ntoward the southeast. Most of the streets are well paved, being macadamized \n\n\n\n\nBank of Ireland \xe2\x80\x94 Old Parliament House^from Southeast. \n\n\n\nin the center for carnages ;\' while on either side, generally speaking, except in \nthat part of the city denominated the Liberty, there is a well-flagged foot-path. \nThe city is lighted with gas, and the inhabitants enjoy a plentiful supply of ex- \ncellent water from the Grand and Royal Canals, conveyed by pipes from large \nreservoirs, or basins, constructed at the north and south sides of the river. The \ncity is encompassed by a circular road, about nine miles in length, and nearly on \nthree sides by the Grand and Royal Canals, which terminate in docks communi- \ncating with the Liffey near its mouth. \n\n" Previous to the Union, Dublin was the constant or occasional residence of \ntwo hundred and seventy-one temporal and spiritual peers, and three hundred \nmembers of the House of Commons. At present (1835), about half a dozen \npeers\' and some fifteen or twenty members of the House of Commons have a \n\n\n\n328 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nsettled dwelling Avithin its precincts. Other persons of this exalted class of \nsociety, whom business or amusement may draw to the capital occasionally, take \nup their residence at one of the hotels, of which there are a great number in the \ncity. The resident gentrj\' of Dublin now amount to about two thousand fami- \nlies, including clergj^men and physicians, besides nearly an equal number of \nlawyers and attorneys, who occasionally reside there. The families engaged in \ntrade and commerce are calculated at about five thousand, and the whole may \nyield a population of sixty or seventy thousand in the higher and middle ranks \nof societ)\'." \n\nSo much for the extent and class character of the inhabitants of Dublin forty- \nfive years ago. Of the manners of the people at that time the same authoritj- \nwrites: "A material change is observable in the manners of the populace of Dub- \nlin ; their ancient amusements of bull-baiting, hurling, cudgel-playing, and wres- \ntling, are almost wholly laid aside. They are still, however, careful to obsen-e \nmemorable days, particularlj- the festival of St. Patrick, which is distinguished \nby the shamrock being almost universally worn, and copious libations of the \nnational beverage are poured out to the patron saint. A grand ball and supper \nis given on that night in the Castle. Formerly there were seven theaters well \nsupported ; at present the only one which remains is frequently ver}- thinly \nattended. Club houses and gaming houses are nearly deserted, and even among \nthe lower classes open vice and profligacy have visibly diminished." \n\nTen years previous, in 1825, the English traveler Brewer gave a picture of \nthe Irish capital and some suggestive remarks delineating the change in commerce, \nsociety, and manners following the loss of the Parliament. As the seat of govern- \nment, \'"Dublin, notwithstanding the removal of its Parliament, and the conse- \nquent diminution of its fashionable circles in luster and extent, wears, in the \npopulous and busy parts of the city, an aspect of splendor and gayety not to be \nwitnessed elsewhere within the British dominions, except in the metropolis of \nthe empire." To the "cursory spectator " and those coming from other parts of \nIreland, the appearance of wealth and vivacity was pleasing, and no evidence of \nimpaired magnificence was apparent. " At the court of the viceroy the change, \nhowever, is necessarily perceptible ; but the deficiency, even there, exists rather \nin rank than in numbers. It has been often remarked that the middle classes of \nsociety in Dublin prefer domestic to public amusements ; * and, from the paucity \n\n* " The change of application to which several places of amusement have become subject is worthy of remark. In \nthe latter part of the last centur)- a garden was opened in the southern suburbs, under the name of Ranelagh. These \npremises are now converted into a nunnerj-, in which are educated the daughters of many highly respectable Roman \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n329 \n\n\n\nand neglected condition of places designed for public resort, such would as- \nsuredly appear to be the fact." \n\n" The theater for the performance of the regular drama has ever commanded \nin this city admirers and patrons ; but select and convivial meetings, often en- \nlivened by music and the dance, are more consonant to the genius of the people \nthan indiscriminate assemblies. It is unquestionable that the prevailing manners \n\n\n\n\nCastle- Yard. \n\n\n\nhave become more sedate since the removal of the Parliament, and the conse- \nquent defalcation of affluent society." \n\nThe writer was naturally a Unionist, and expressed at least a hope in its \nadvantages to " the country at large," but was compelled to admit that " with- \nout examining into other effects of the Union, it is certain that the removal of \n\nCatholic families. A circus, built for Astley\'s equestrian exhibitions, is used as a charitable asylum and a meeting- \nhouse. On the site of the once celebrated theater of Smock Alley has lately been erected a Roman Catholic Chapel. \nExcept the Theater Royal, the promenade in the gardens of the Lying-in Hospital forms the only place that, at present, \nmeets with ample encouragement. " \xe2\x80\x94 Brewer\'s note. \n\n\n\n330 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthe Irish Parliament has \'eclipsed the gayety of the nation \' and deprived the \nmetropolis of too many of the noble and affluent residents who once shed so \nmuch luster on the society of this city. As Dublin must be viewed rather as \nthe seat of government and emporium of national fashion, than as a mercantile \ncity, however respectable its commerce, this deprivation is severely felt by the \ninhabitants, and is painfully perceptible in the deserted or altered state of the \nBurke Statue. principal mansions. We shall shortly have occasion to \n\nremark that the superb houses of the Duke of Leinster and \nLord Viscount Powerscourt,* are now used as public build- \nings. Many dwellings of distinguished persons are con- \nverted into hotels, where, as it has been truly observed, \n\' the former proprietors occupy a room for the few days \nthey remain in the metropolis in their transit to England.\' \nThe vacant condition of other spacious and noblg houses \ncommunicates, at present, an air of melancholy to many \nretired parts of the city." \n\nNotwithstanding the depreciating effect of the Union, \nmany churches, hospitals, and other institutions of practical \nusefulness and ornament to the city were founded in the first \nquarter of the present century; among which may be noted, the Hard- \nicke Fever Hospital, or House of Recovery, St. George\'s Church, and \nKing\'s Inns in 1802 ; the College of Surgeons and the Bedford Asylum, \nfor the reception of one thousand children of all religious persuasions, in 1806 ; \nNelson\'s Pillar in 1808; Richmond National Institution, for teaching the blind, \nin 1809 ; the basin at Portobello, to supply the southern side with water, in 1812 ; \nRichmond Bridge, and Penitentiary on the South Circular Road, near Clanbras- \nsil Street, in 1813 ; The Meath Hospital, for the weavers of the Liberties, partly \nby donation of Mr. T. Pleasants, House of Refuge, by Mrs. Theodosia Blatch- \nford. Lunatic Asylum and General Post Office, in 18 14; St. Michael and St. \nJohn\'s Chapel, on the site of Smock Alley Theater, and St. Michael\'s Church, \nHigh Street, on the site of the old church of 1676, in 181 5 ; National Institution for \nthe education of poor deaf and dumb children, the " Metal Bridge," of one span, \nover the Liffey, the Corn Exchange, and Whitworth Bridge; in 1816; in which \n\n\n\n\n* Leinster House was purchased for \xc2\xa320,000, in 1815, by the Royal Dublin Society, and has been occupied since by \nits Schools of Art, Museum, etc. Powerscourt House, William Street, was purchased for \xc2\xa315,000, in 1811, and used as \nthe Stamp Office until 1834, when that department having been removed to the Custom House, it became the warehouse \nof an eminent silk mercer. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n331 \n\n\n\nGrattan Siaiiic. \n\n\n\nyear steam packets first sailed from the harbor of Dublin : the Wellington Tes- \ntimonial, Phoenix Park, in 1817; Mendicity Association in 1818; The Dublin \nLibrary in D\'Olier Street opened, and Chamber of Commerce formed in 1820; \nTheater Royal, Hawkins Street, and Custom House Dock in 1821 ; Royal Hi- \nbernian Academy and the churches of St. Stephen\'s, Mount Street, and St. Paul\'s, \nin 1824. October 5th, of the following year, the city was lighted with gas. \n\nThe visit of George IV., in August, 1821, caused unusual \ninterest among all parties in Dublin. For the purpose of \nreceiving him with apparent unanimity, negotiations for har- \nmony between the Orange corporation and the Catholic \nleaders, had been concluded, but were broken by the former \nin the insultino- decoration of the statue of Kina William HI. \n\no & \n\non the anniversary of the 12th July. On the other hand, \nthe king, driven, as it were, from England, by the execra- %;jj \ntions of the people, and the cowardice of his evil conscience, \nwas heralded by vague promises to conciliate the Catholics, \nand ensure him a good reception at any cost. He landed ~ \nunexpectedly at Howth on the 12th August; made a grand \npublic entry into the city on the 17th, and after holding \ncourt at the Castle, an installation of Knights of St. Patrick at \nthe cathedral, and participating in a round of pageants, entertain- \nments, and reviews, with visits to Wicklow, Meath and Kildare, he \nembarked at Dunleary on the 3d September ; on which occasion O\'Con- \nnell, at the head of a Catholic deputation, presented him with a crown of laurel. \nIt is admitted that while the Catholic leaders were not misled by the promises \npreceding the visit, the reiteration of the fair assurances by the king while in \nDublin had the effect of causing them to be generally believed;* and we may the \nless wonder at it when we read in Eldon\'s Memoirs, f that the king at one mo- \n-m.e.nt half believed Ynms&M that he was sincere, to the great fright of Lord Eldon \nand his associates, who thereupon hastened the measures for his departure. In \ncommemoration of this visit the very ancient name of Dunleary {Dtin-Laeghaire, \nthe fortress of Leary, King of Ireland at the arrival of St. Patrick) was changed \nto Kings-town, a granite monument erected (1823) near the place of the em- \nbarkation, and the handsome King\'s Bridge built (1827) across the Liffey be- \ntween the Military Road and Park-gate Street, at the west end of the city. \n\n\n\n\n* The Select Speeches of Daniel ffConnell, M.P.; edited by his son, John O\'Connell, Esq. 2 vols, \nf Memoirs of Lord Eldon, by Horace Tvviss. \n\n\n\n332 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nAmong the events of the succeeding decade, illustrating the moral and \nmaterial progress of the city, were the erection of some markets and churches ; \namong the latter the Carmelite Church, Whitefriar Street (1825), on the site of \nthe ancient monastery of White Friars; Episcopal Chapel for Seamen (1833); \nthe fine church in Westland Row (1834), capable of accommodating six thousand \n\npersons, and the construction of \nthe first railroad in Ireland. The \nfirst trial of the locomotive steam \nengines on the Dublin and Kings- \ntown Railway was made on the 4th \nOctober, 1834; the mail was first \nconveyed over the road on Decem- \nber 13th, and it was opened to the \npublic on the 1 7th of the same month. \nDublin Avas the center of the con- \ntinued agitations under the various \ncommittees, boards, andassociations \nwhich resulted in the achievement \nof the " Catholic Emancipation " \nAct of 1829. It was also the head- \nquarters of the unparalleled agita- \ntion that followed, having for its ob- \nject the Repeal of the Union, and \nculminated in 1843 with the prohi- \nbition of the mass meeting at Clon- \ntarf, and the prosecution of O\'Con- \nnell and some of his lieutenants \nand agents in the press, pulpit, and. \nrostrum. In this year the enthu- \nsiasm of the people and the anxiety of the government had reached its greatest \npoint of tension. No matter what O\'Connell\'s line of policy, the people could \nscarcely have much longer withstood the tendency of his harangues, for as Canon \nO\'Hagan recently said, he at times stirred them to such a pitch that " they but \nwaited for him to say the word, and they would risk all in rising to free their coun- \ntry, his words fell upon their souls like the fire on dried flax." The government \nunderstood this, and by a sudden act compelled O\'Connell into the active agency \nof his peace policy at the imminent crisis. Following up the Monster Meetings \n\n\n\n\nO\'Connell\'s Residence, Mcrrion Square. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n333 \n\n\n\nwhich had been started in March, the people were called to assemble on Sunday \nthe 8th of October, on the historic shores of Clontarf, just outside of the capital, \nwhere Brian Boru overthrew the Danes. The neighborhood of the place of \nmeeting to the city made the usual preparations and excitement more apparent, \nand as the day approached this excitement was increased by rumors of military \ninterference. While it seemed the persuasion of every one that the meeting at \n\n\n\n\nChapel Royal and Birmingham Tower. \n\n\n\nClontarf would not be suffered to assemble unless at the sacrifice of blood; and \nit was currently reported that O\'Connell would be seized and placed in the tower \nof Dublin Castle, if not in the Tower of London ; still no outside action was \nmanifested by the authorities at the Castle, although on the evening of the 6th \nit was known that the lord lieutenant. Earl de Grey, and the lord chancellor had \narrived, and that the Privy Council was in session. Saturday morning came, and no \nvoice from the Castle. There, however, the viceroy and council were in session ; \nwhile not far from the other end of Dame Street, in their rooms at the Corn \n\n\n\n334 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nExchange, O\'Connell and his committee awaited the emergency. Eleven o\'clock \ncame \xe2\x80\x94 no proclamation ! Twelve o\'clock \xe2\x80\x94 none was issued ! One o\'clock \xe2\x80\x94 \nstill no indication of action from the Privy Council. Meantime, regiments and \ncorps, ammunition and artillery were landing, and every preparation seemed \nadopted which ought to precede the employment of great military force. Two \no\'clock came, and no proclamation ! Three o\'clock, and the Castle spoke \'not. \nBut the intention was avowed. It was known that a proclamation had beea \nagreed to. Yet men said they would never issue a manifesto of such awful im- \nportance without due precaution, and that could only be procured by due pub- \nlicity. For already, even of those not inhabitants of Dublin or the country, there \nhad arrived as many as would compose a reasonable \' monster meeting.\' Several \nsteamers had come from Liverpool bringing repealers thence. Wexford, Newry, \nBelfast had forwarded their quotas. It was supposed to be against the principles \nof the government of Sir Robert Peel, as it was assuredly opposed to prudence, \nthat such a hazard should be run as to publish a proclamation in the face of such \na multitude. But the policy of the war party prevailed. About half-past three \no\'clock in the afternoon the first copy of the proclamation issued from the press. \nIn one half hour afterwards the counter proclamation of the Repeal Association, \nsigned by Daniel O\'Connell, as chairman of the committee, was in circulation \nthroughout the city. There never was any public document prepared with such \ndispatch, and never was there any prepared under such an awful sense of re- \nsponsibility.* The Castle proclamation prohibited the meeting ; O\'Connell\'s \nproclamation prevented it ; utter carelessness was shown in giving publicity to \nthe former ; incredible exertion was used in the extensive distribution of the \nlatter. Prominent and popularly known adherents of O\'Connell were dispatched \nout of the city to meet and turn back the tens of thousands on the country roads \ncoming in from the adjacent counties. It was with great difficulty, in some \ninstances, that these people could be induced to alter the intention with which \nthey had set out. If it was the desire and design \xe2\x80\x94 as was generally supposed \xe2\x80\x94 \nof the vice-regal government to make a bloody collision between the well pre- \npared troops and the unarmed masses of the people inevitable, the terrible pro- \nject was frustrated by O\'Connell and his friends. It is indeed undeniable that \n" the duty of preserving the peace and protecting the lives of thousands, while \nit also prevented a fearful revolution, was left to the Repeal Association." \nO\'Connell and eight others were indicted and prosecuted, and the former, when \n\n\n\n* Itish Slate Trials, 1843-1844. Special Report of the Proceedings, etc. Edited by John Flanedy, Esq. Dublin, \n1844. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n335 \n\n\n\ninstructed on the 14th October of the nature of the charges against him, issued \nother addresses calling on the people to " violate no law," and telling them " not \nto be tempted to break the peace." The prosecution commenced in the Court \nof Queen\'s Bench by the charge to the Grand Jury, on November 2d, and from \nthat period forward the attention of the Dublin public of all classes and politics \nwas absorbed by it to the exclusion of all other topics. To the 25th November \nwas occupied in legal preliminaries, and \nthe trials commenced on the 5th January, \n1844.* On this occasion an extraordinary \nspectacle was presented. So many per- \nsonal and political friends expressed anx- \niety to accompany the chief "conspirator" \nto court, that it was necessary for the sake \nof order to arrange a programme. Hence \nat an early hour more than one side of \nMerrion Square, opposite his house, was \nfilled with carriages. He rode to the \nFour Courts in a carriage with the lord \nmayor and his secretary, and was accom- \npanied by the Corporation, mostly in their \nrobes, and a cortege of forty carriages headed by the city marshal on a spirited \ncharger. The trial lasted until the 12th February, when he was convicted. After \nhaving been in Richmond Prison for about three months, the judgment was re- \nversed by the House of Lords, and his release, and the procession of trades and \ncitizens which received him from the prison gates and carried him in triumph to \nhis residence was one of the great Dublin events of the period. \n\nThe political agitation continued with various fervor, but took a more posi- \ntive turn in the declarations of " Young Ireland," differing from O\'Connell\'s \npolicy of confining their energies under all circumstances to a peace policy, \nsimply and solely. This party formed the " Irish Confederation " in January, \n1847. Early in the same year, a meeting of nobility and land-owners resulted \nin the formation of an " Irish Council." A " Protestant Repeal Association " \n\n\n\n\nMornington House. \n\n\n\n* The names of the prosecuted Repealers were Daniel O\'Connell, M.P., John O\'Connell, M.P., Thomas Steele, \nThomas Matthew Ray, Secretary of the Repeal Association, Charles (since Sir Charles) Gavan Duffy, of the Nation, \nRev. Thomas Tiemey, of Clontibret, Rev. Peter James Tyrrell, parish priest of Lusk, Doctor (since Sir) John Gray, \nof the Freeman\'s Journal, and Richard Barret, of the Pilot. The Rev. Mr. Tyrrell, one of the indicted conspirators, \ndied on the 4th December. His death was caused by over-exertion and anxiety. He rode all through the night of \nOctober 7th, preventing the people from going to Clontarf, and was saturated with rain. \n\n\n\n336 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nfollowed. The famine was in the land, and all classes felt the necessity for \nthought and action ; and the center of all was Dublin. The revolutions all over \nEurope, and especially the example of the three days of Paris in February, ex- \ncited the Nationalists to such a degree that the government took every precau- \ntion against a rising in March, 1848. The Bank of Ireland, Custom House, \n\nTrinity College, Royal \nDublin Society, Royal \nHibernian Academy, Linen \nHall, The Rotunda, \nHolmes Hotel, Aldbor- \nough House, Dycer\'s Sta- \nbles in Stephen\'s Green, \nand other institutions, liter- \nary, artistic and commer- \ncial, in and about the city \nwere strongly garrisoned. \nGunboats were hastily \nbuilt, to be thrown upon \nthe Liffey, the barracks \nwere provisioned as for a \nsiege. The arrest of Smith \nO\'Brien, Thomas Francis \nMeagher and John Mitchel \nfollowed. The latter, who \nexpounded the most ad- \nvanced revolutionary \ndoctrines in his journal. \nThe United Irishman, was speedily tried, convicted, and carried off in chains. \nThe suppression in July of the national organs * and the capture or dispersal of \n\n\n\n\nSiatUL of William III. \n\n\n\n* On the 8th of July, John Martin, Charles, Gavan Duffy, and Kevin Izod O\'Doherty were arrested. In the \nevening, the offices of the Nation and Felon were ransacked ; at midnight a descent was made on the Tribune by the \npolice, and on the next morning Richard D\'Alton Williams, famous as Shamrock the poet, was arrested. The N^atioyi, \nedited by Duffy, had been the very soul of Young Ireland. For it the deceased Thomas Davis, the poet, a wonderful and \nindefatigable patriotic genius, had written. The other journals were started almost in the very crisis of the \'48 move- \nment. In Mitchel\'s History the situation is thus presented, " Yet, with all the odds against them, with the Irish gentry \nthoroughly corrupted or frightened out of their senses, and with the \' Government \' enemy obviously bent on treating our \nnational aspiration as an ignominous crime worthy to be ranked only with the offences of burglars or pickpockets \xe2\x80\x94 still \nthere were men resolved to dare the worst and uttermost for but one chance of rousing that down-trodden people. . . \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n337 \n\n\n\ntheir writers, with the suspension of the Habeas Corpus act, greatly exasperated \nthe people, but still almost paralyzed the movement in the city, by driving all the \nclub leaders out \nof it to various \nparts of the coun- \ntry. \n\nOn a visit to \nIreland In August \nof the following \nyear, Queen Vic- \ntoria sojourned in \nDublin for a few \ndays, during \nwhich she held a \nlevee and drawing \nroom at the Castle \nand attended a re- \nview in the Park. \n\nThe Industrial \nExhibition of \n1853 was an \nevent which not \nonly reflected \ncredit on Dublin \nand Ireland, but \nfavorably associ- \nated its name with \nthose immense \nprojects w h i c h \nnow symbolize the \n\nhighest artistic The Chapel Royal\xe2\x80\x94 InUrwr. \n\n\n\n\nAnd as it was clear that there was nothing the enemy dreaded so much as a bold and honest newspaper, which would \nexpose their plots of slaughter and turn their liberal professions inside out, it was, before all things, necessary to \nestablish a newspaper to take the place of the. United Irishman. It was a breach as deadly and imminent as ever yawned \nin a beleaguered wall ; but men were found prompt to stand in it. Within two weeks after my trial, the Irish Tribune \nwas issued, edited by O\'Doherty and Williams, with Antisell and Savage as contributors." \xe2\x80\x94 Mitchel\'s Last Conquest of \nIreland {Perhaps), p. 281, Dublin ed. The Iiish Felon, written by Martin, Thomas Devin Reilly, Fenton Lalor, and \nJoseph Brenan, appeared J"iie 24th. The suppression of these journals silenced the national press. \n\n\n\n338 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nand mechanical development, and bring into friendly competition the most \nvaluable resources of the greatest nations and peoples of the world. The Dub- \nlin Exhibition calls for more than a passing word. It originated with William \nDargan, a man of humble birth, who, having worked as a laborer, became a con- \ntractor, and developed projective and executive ability, and a power of mind \nthat are represented in many useful and permanent works. He undertook this \ngreat work alone. The Royal Dublin Society granted the use of the lawn be- \ntween its building and the west side of Merrion Square. In order to add to the \nattractions of the Industrial Exhibition, Dargan was induced to associate with \nhis design the creation of a great gallery for paintings and the exhibition of all \nprocurable articles of virtu, the fine arts, foreign curiosities, and mediaeval and \nearlier archaeological remains ; which added much to the expense of the vast \nbuilding. It is said that during the progress of the work repeated offers were \nmade by various opulent persons to contribute in aid of the undertaking, and \nthat Dargan invariably declined, determining to bear all the responsibility. The \nExhibition was opened by Lord St. Germains, the lord lieutenant, and was \nvisited by Queen Victoria, who went to Ireland in that year. The honor of \nknighthood was offered to Dargan, but " with true nobleness and simplicity he \nrespectfully but firmly declined it." As a further mark of the estimation in \nwhich the Queen held him, her majesty took occasion to pay a visit to Dargan at \nhis private residence, situated in one of the most attractive environs of Dublin, \nat Mount Anneville, near Dundrum. The munificence, manly simplicity, and \nAvorth of Dargan were appreciated by his townsmen, and at a meeting held in \nJuly, 1853, it was determined to perpetuate the remembrance of the good he had \neffected. Funds were collected, to which the Government added a grant, and the \nresult was the founding of the Irish National Gallery, which was subsequently \nerected on a portion of the ground of the Royal Dublin Society occupied by the \nExhibition. It was opened May 24th, 1864, by the Earl of Carlisle, and a fine \nbronze statue of Dargan in front of the building was unveiled by the same popu- \nlar lord lieutenant. The statue, by Thomas Farrell, R.H.A., stands on a block \nof Irish granite, and represents Dargan in the characteristic attitude from which \nis derived the sobriqiict then generally applied to him, of " the man with his hand \nin his pocket." \n\nPerhaps at no period of political agitation, with the exception of \'98, did the \nexcitement in the city of Dublin surpass, if indeed it equaled, that caused by \nand surrounding the movement of the Fenian Brotherhood, at various times \nfrom the summer of 1865 to the disestablishment of the Established Church in \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n339 \n\n\n\nIreland. The seizure of the Irish People, the organ of the revolutionary move- \nment, and its conductors, on the 15th September, 1865, with the numerous arrests \nwhich followed, recalled the feverish feelings of \'48, but extended and heightened \nby the development of a positive military element from the United States of \nAmerica, and the discovery that \nnumbers of Irish soldiers in the \nBritish Army were members and \npropagandists of the organiza- \ntion.* The capture of Mr. James \nStephens on the morning of No- \nvember iith, was deemed of sur- \npassing importance, but his escape \nfrom Richmond Bridewell within \ntwo weeks aroused the fiercest ex- \ncitement, renewing the activity of \nthe nationalists and almost bewil- \ndering the authorities. The trials \nof the Fenian captives continued \nthe political fermentation in Dub- \nlin : and the extensive demonstra- \ntions known as amnesty meetings, \npraying for the release of the \npolitical prisoners, led the late \nIsaac Butt, an eminent lawyer \nand litterateur, to utilize this \nspirit in a constitutional form. \nFrom having been the leading legal advocate of the chief Fenian prisoners, he \nbecame the leading figure in a new national movement by founding the Home \nRule Party. At a conference which sat from the i8th to 21st November, 1873, in \n\n\n\n\nMoore\'s Birthplace \xe2\x80\x94 as it was. \n\n\n\n*"The organization is supported by money from the Irish in Amei\'ica and Great Britain. . . . I send you a \nreturn of men who served in the American War, who are Icnown to the constabulary as Fenian agents. . . . These \nmen are of the most dangerous class. They are Irishmen imbued with American notions, thoroughly reckless, and pos- \nsessed of considerable military experience, acquired on a field of warfare (the Civil War in America) .admirably adapted \nto train them for conducting an insurrection here. . . . Those known in Dublin amount to about 160. . . . This \nnumber is being augmented by fresh men constantly arriving from America. . . . We have found no less than three \nregular manufactories of pikes, bullets and cartridges in Dublin. . . . But the most dangerous feature in the present \nmovement is the attempt to seduce the troops." \xe2\x80\x94 Communications from Lord Wodehouse, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, to \nSir George Grey, the Home Secretary, London. From January 21st to February 14th, i865. \n\n\n\n340 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthe Rotunda, the Home Rule League was formed, and the party has succeeded in \nelecting a larger number of members pledged to its policy than have ever gone \nfrom Ireland at one time to the British Parliament. Among the other memora- \nble events in Dublin during late years, was the erection of the Exhibition Palace \nin 1865, to serve the purposes of a permanent fine-arts exhibition, which was \ninaugurated by the International Exposition of that year; the meeting of the \nBritish Association in 1878; and the Centennial Celebration of the birth of the poet \nMoore on May 28th, 1879. The Centenary Committee met in the morning, and \n\n_ ^_ _ __ ^ at 2 P.M. the Lord Mayor and Cor- \n\n[ \'^m poration, with deputations from \n\n^ various provincial municipalities, \n\n\'< ^ went in state procession to the \n\nfl Exhibition Palace, where a choice \n\n\n\n\nLyiii^-in JL,j.. \n\n\n\ncollection of relics of Moore were on view, and where Lord O\'Hagan delivered \nan eloquent panegyric on the literary powers, ardent patriotism, and domestic \nvirtues of the poet. Denis Florence McCarthy wrote a beautiful ode for the \noccasion, after the delivery of which by the Rev. Chancellor Tisdall, the author, \nwas called forward and crowned with a laurel wreath by the Lord Mayor, and \nproclaimed Poet Laureate of Ireland. An entertainment of national music \nfollowed, and was received with great enthusiasm. The house in which Moore \nwas born was decorated during the day Avith green flags, and at night it was \nilluminated, while at the Mansion House there was a brilliant ball. The deter- \nmination to substitute a new statue of Moore for the old one at College Street, \nopposite the eastern front of the bank, which was unveiled in 1857, has led to the \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n341 \n\n\n\ndiscovery that the latter is not only an artistic failure, but an actual fraud as \nregards the material of which it is composed, being made of zinc instead of \nbronze. \n\nHaving thus briefly indicated the leading facts in the history and politics of \nthe Irish metropolis, we shall as briefly add some data illustrating the character \nof its commerce and extent of its population before proceeding to the objects \nwhich may individually command the attention of pen or pencil. It is said that \nwhen surveying the handsome and solidly built granite docks on both sides of \nthe eastern extremity of the \ncity, Mr. Wm. E. Gladstone was \n" surprised beyond measure " at \nthe activity he witnessed, and is \nreported to have declared that \n\n\n\n\nThe Four Courts (of Law). \n\n" Dublin was the busiest capital in her majesty\'s dominions after London." \nThe prospect of trade which is regarded as encouraging, is expected, accord- \ning to a recent report on the subject, within a few years to undergo great aug- \nmentation, for accommodations in the shape of docks and warehouses, and an \nimmense hotel \xe2\x80\x94 probably now finished \xe2\x80\x94 were being prepared at Holyhead, for \nthe sole purpose of developing the commercial relations between England and Ire- \nland. Intercourse is maintained by the shipping of Dublin with Norway, America, \nand Russia; but the cross Channel trade is the most important of the port indus- \ntries. Great Britain furnishing a most extensive market for all sorts of Irish \nproduce, especially cattle. The customs duties collected at the port of Dublin \namount to over ^900,000 a year. \n\n\n\n342 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nThough a small city, Dublin is the seat of many thriving manufactures. In \nancient days the staple industry was that in woolen goods, including the friezes \nAvorn so generally by the people ; and in i 792 as many as five thousand persons \nwere engaged in working woolen looms in the " Liberties." This trade has, \nhowever, decayed, and the commercial reputation of Dublin is now more dis- \nplayed in poplin, linen, and paper manufactures. The linen manufacture was \noriginated by Strafford when viceroy of Ireland, who gave ^30,000 of his private \nproperty to establish it. He encouraged the importation of flaxseed from Hol- \nland, erected looms, and placed skilled for- \neigners over them. A public grant of money \nwas given by Queen Anne to build a Linen \nHall, the capacious building in which sales, \n|1^ though greatly diminished, are still contin- \nued ; the export value from Dublin of these \nlinen yarns and manufactures alone exceeds \n^10,000,000 annually. \n\nThe city is also celebrated for its porter \nbreweries and whisky distilleries. Of the lat- \nter, Ireland possesses thirty as against nine \nI in England, and most of these are in Dublin. \nScotland is in reality the " whisky country," \nhaving now in existence no less than one hun- \ndred and thirty distilleries. There is, however, \nit appears, a considerable quantity of the cele- \nbrated " mountain dew " or " poteen," with its peculiar, and to some nostrils, \ntempting aroma of turf flavor, still produced among the wilder districts of Ire- \nland ; a recent return showing that 176 persons were tried for selling untaxed \nspirits. \n\nThe inland trade from Dublin is carried on chiefly by several railways, three \nof which have vast depots and termini at the North Wall. The revenue produced \nby railways in Ireland is largely augmented by there being no passenger duty.\' \nThese roads are constructed in the best manner, and the termini of several \xe2\x80\x94 \nespecially those of the Dublin and Drogheda, in Amiens Street, the Midland \nGreat Western, at the Broad Stone, and the Great Southern and Western, at \nKing\'s Bridge \xe2\x80\x94 may be enumerated as adding to the architectural beauty of the \ncity, being regarded in their styles as fully equal to any in Britain. There are \ntwo canals \xe2\x80\x94 the " Grand " and the " Royal " \xe2\x80\x94 which, starting from north and \n\n\n\n\nMoore\'s Birthplace \xe2\x80\x94 as it is. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. 343 \n\nsouth of the Liffey, encircle the city, and proceed thence to MulHngar and the \nShannon, and by means of these an extensive trade in bricks, timber, turf, and \ncoal is maintained. \n\nUnlike London and other cities whose fashionable elements turn toward a \n" west end," the Irish metropolis has its most select associations in the south- \neast. The Castle, the University, the Catholic University, College of Surgeons, \nthe principal scientific institutions, banks, theaters, and finer squares and streets \nare in this division. The houses are older and in point of appearance inferior \nto the more modern west end of London, yet, adds Fraser, " they are in every \nway equally adapted to health and comfort, as well as to the enjoyment of all the \nhospitalities and refinements of the age ; while the included areas of some of the \nsquares, devoted solely to the purposes of recreation, are equally adorned and \nmuch larger \xe2\x80\x94 Merrion Square containing 12, and Stephen\'s Green 23 acres. As \na southern wing to this southeastern district, but still under the old local names \nof Rathmines, Ranelagh, and Rathgar, a great extent of streets have sprung up \nwithin the past twenty-five years. They a.re chiefly occupied by \' the middle \nclasses,\' and are laid out with much regard to health and comfort." The wide \navenues, the large gardens attached to the houses, and the beautiful scenery \naround give the whole a cheerful, rural, and healthy aspect. We have taken \nsome pains to collect the figures showing the progress of the population, as fol- \nlows : In 1610, the population of the city and suburbs was 26,000; in 1644, \nthe city was " numbered " and only 8,159 returned, of whom 5,551 were Protes- \ntants and 2,608 Catholics ; in 1682, Sir William Petty\'s return gave the city a \npopulation of 69,090; in 1728, it was 146,075; and in 1777, 127,208. These \nfluctuations, owing to political and religious causes and to want of precision in \nthe enumerations, are not observable in the figures for this century. In 1803, \nthe population was 172,094, which in 18 13 had increased only to 175,319. The \nnext eight years more than trebled the increase of the previous ten years, and \ncontinued to show an increase save in the decade between 1851 and 1861. The \nestimate of the Registrar General of the population in 1876 was 417,717, show- \ning an increase of 150,000 on the census of 1871.* \n\nAmong the most historical of the ancient edifices of Dublin are, par excel- \nlence, Christ\'s Church Cathedral, St. Patrick\'s Cathedral, and the Castle. \n\nThe Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, commonly called Christ\'s Church, is of \n\n* The following are the returns during the present century : In 1S05, the population was 172,094 ; in 1813, \n175.319 ; 1821, 185,881 ; 1831, 203,752 ; 1S41, 232,725 ; 1851, 258,361 ; 1861, 254,293 ; 1S71, 267,717 ; and estimate \nin 1876, 417,717. \n\n\n\n344 \n\n\n\nPICTURE SO UE I RE LA ND. \n\n\n\nvery ancient origin, its vaults, according to its archives, having been formed by \nthe Danes before the arrival of St. Patrick, who afterward celebrated mass in one \nof them. The church, as it now stands, was founded, however, about the year \n103S, by Sitric MacAulaffe, king of Dublin, and Donatus, the first Ostman bishop \nof Dublin. St. Laurence O\'Toole, who became archbishop of Dublin in 1162, \nappears to have received the cooperation of Strongbow, and his companions \nin arms, Raymond Le Gros and Robert Fitzstephen, in the erection of the choir, \nthe tower, two chapels, and the general enlargement and completion of the cathe- \ndral toward the close of the twelfth century. Parliaments have been held in it ; \n\nand here, as before \nstated, the impostor Sim- \nnel was crowned, 1487. \nIn such veneration were \nthe precincts of the \ncathedral held that the \ncity, in 1497, granted \nlibert}- from arrests and \nother molestations to all \n^ persons who should come \nto visit any shrine or \nrelique in it. George Brown, an apostate Augustinian of London, having been \nmade the first archbishop of Dublin of the Reformation, in 1535 removed the \nshrines and reliques from St. Patrick\'s Cathedral and Christ\'s Church ; and in \n1538 had the celebrated crozier of St. Patrick, th.(t Bac hail losa, staff of Jesus, \nwith which the apostle had struck down the idols, and which had been brought \nfrom Armagh in i iSo, publicly burned here. On Easter Sunday, 1550, the liturgy \nin English was first read in Christ\'s Church. \n\nStrongbow, the " principal invader," died in 11 77, and according to Giraldus \nCambrensis, "was interred in Christ\'s Church, and his funeral obsequies were \nperformed by Archbishop Laurence O\'Toole." A doubt has recently been thrown \non the truth of this statement by Canon Finlayson, who expects to prove that \nthe arms on the tomb \xe2\x80\x94 known for centuries as Strongbow\'s Monument \xe2\x80\x94 are not \nthose of Strongbow, but of his follower, Fitz-Osbert. On the left of the recum- \nbent figure on the monument is a half figure recumbent also on a tortis. It has \nbeen supposed that this was the efiigy of his wife, the Princess Eva, which was \nbroken by the falling of the roof and nave in 1562 ; but it is more reasonably \nregarded as the tomb of his son, whom he cut in two for having fled in a fight \n\n\n\n\nNew Railwt\\ B> idgo )t,i.i //u Liff^y \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n345 \n\n\n\n\nStatue of Oliver Goldsmith. \n\nwith the Irish. This would account for the half-length figure, which bears no \nevidence of having been broken, but on the contrary is finished quite round. \nThe tomb of Strongbow acquired additional notoriety from a custom of paying \ntithes to the clergy upon it. The monument is of the altar-tomb character, on \n\n\n\n346 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nthe top of which lies a warrior in chain armor with legs crossed. Above it, a \nstone in the wall bears the following inscription : \n\nTHIS : AVNCYENT : MONVMENT : OF : STRANGEOWE : CALLED : COMES : \n\nSTRANGVLENSIS : LORD : OF : CHEPSTO : AND : OGNY : THE : FIRST : AND : \n\nPRINCIPAL : INVADER : OF : IRELAND : I 1 69 : QVI : OBIIT : I I 77 : THE : \n\nMONUMENT : WAS : BROKEN : BY : THE : FALL : OF : THE : ROFF : AND : \n\nBODYE : OF : CHRISTES : CHVRCHE : IN : AN : 1562 : AND : SET : VP : \n\nAGAYN : AT : THE : CHARGYS : OF : THE : RIGHT : HONORABLE : SR : HENIRI : \n\nSYDNEY : KNYGHT : OF : THE : MOST : NOBLE : ORDER : L : PRESIDENT : \n\nWAILES : L : DEPUTY : OF : IRLAND : 1570. \n\nWithin a few years Mr. Henry Roe, a well-known Irish distiller, has restored \nthis venerable and historical pile at a cost of more than a million of dollars \n(^200,000), and added ^20,000 sterling more for the sustainment of the clergy \nand choir. The architect, Mr. G. E. Street, intrusted with the work of restora- \ntion, has adhered with success as much as possible to the designs of the founders. \nThe length of the nave and choir is 260 feet, of the transept 210 feet and the \nbreadth 80 feet. An old doorway of antiquarian interest in the south transept, \ncleaned and repaired, now constitutes the grand entrance opposite Christ\'s Church \nPlace ; the north exterior, a huge buttressed wall, has the appearance of a fortress. \nFormerly the building rested on arches, which were used as shops and low taverns. \nThe Danes used to transact their business in these arches, and long after the \nconquest the " nave itself was desecrated, not only by \' the tables of the money \nchangers,\' but by still more unseemly exhibitions." \n\nIn the summer of 1878, while engaged in the work of restoration, the stone \nfigure of a woman was unearthed which may prove to be the long-lost monument \nof Eva. Other tombs of interest attract attention, the principal of which are \nthose to Archbishop Comyn, the early renovator of the cathedral, and to Sir John \nStevenson, the first native boy who was permitted to enter its music school, late \nin the last century, and became famous as the arranger of the music to " Moore\'s \nIrish Melodies." In 1300, a rivalry between Christ\'s Church and St. Patrick\'s \nwas terminated by giving precedence to the former. Since the Disestablishment \nAct of 1869, Christ\'s Church has been made the Cathedral of the Dublin diocese, \nand St. Patrick\'s has been declared the National Cathedral of Ireland. \n\nThe Cathedral of St. Patrick\'s is undoubtedly in many respects, from its his- \ntory and associations, one of the principal ecclesiastical structures in Ireland. \nAuthentic records show that about the year 448 St. Patrick converted Alphin \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n347 \n\n\n\nMacEochy, king of Dublin, and many of his people, and baptized them in a well \nsituated near the north transept, which still exists. Near this a place of wor- \nship was erected, which must have existed for a long period, as in 890 Gregory \nof Scotland and his followers attended worship in it. On the site of this edifice \nArchbishop Comyn, in 11 90, began the present building; in 1362, it was seri- \nously damaged by fire, and it was added to and decorated by Archbishop Minot, \nwho held the see in 1 730. The steeple, \nof the lancet order, is of this date. The \ncathedral Is cruciform, consisting of \nnave, transepts, choir, and Lady Chapel. \nThe extreme length of the main build- \ning is 300 feet ; the subdivisions mea- \nsuring respectively, nave 130, choir 90, \nand Lady Chapel 55 feet ; transept \n160 feet, breadth 80 feet. The ceilmg \nof the nave is open, that of the choir is \ngroined. The tower on the northwest \ncorner is 120 feet high, and the spire \n1 01 feet. " As high as St. Patrick\'s \nsteeple," is a Dublin phrase. There is \nno other steeple in the city approaching \nthe height save the beautiful spire of \nSt. George\'s Church, which is 200 feet, with the additional advantage of being on \na site nearly 100 feet above the sea level. The north transept, used as the parish \nchurch of St. Nicholas Without, was rebuilt in 1821. \n\nWere all records of its history lost, the occurrence of a peculiar device \xe2\x80\x94 viz., \na half-moon and star inclosed within a triangle, which appears among the de- \ntails of its decoration \xe2\x80\x94 would indicate the date of the church. The history of St. \nPatrick\'s partakes largely of that of the country. Essentially Irish in the begin- \nning, it found new rulers In the hands of Norman or Anglo-Norman authorities, \nand for ages " no Irish need apply " for post or dignity in connection with its \nservices. This rule applied not only to St. Patrick\'s but to every ancient estab- \nlishment over which English influence extended in Ireland. At length, a period \narrived in the history of the church, when the descendants of the Normans, and \nthe " mere Irish," who were at all times equally good Catholics, were dealt with \nalike. In fact, this church was unchurched as far as possible, its revenues seques- \ntrated, its furniture sold, and its shell used according to necessity as a parliament \n\n\n\n\nView down Dafiie Street from Trinity College- \n\nGrattan\'s Statue, King Williams \n\nin the rear. \n\n\n\n348 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nhouse, stable, courts of law, or a barrack. Again it returned to the holy purposes \nof its founders, and was again wrested from them ; and after the waves of faction \nand intolerance had shattered its walls and dimmed its beauties it seemed to set- \ntle down as a dilapidated, but in part decent, church of the Episcopalians. Then \ncame Cromwell, who objected, and the Protestant book of common prayer, and all \nother " popish books " used in the service, were publicly burned, and the church \nbecame the stable of some of the Protector\'s cavalry. No building could stand for \ncenturies the wear and tear of such a succession of events, and it is no wonder that \nlong before Dean Swift\'s time it was almost a ruin. Some spasmodic attempts at \nrestoration were made during the last century. The glorious old pile, in its nave \nand arches, seemed, as it were, dropping its stones as a moulting bird its feathers. \nThe whole southern wall threatened to come down at any moment ; and interiorly \nit became necessary to prop up some of the arches of the nave. The Avhole as- \npect of the building was one of dinginess and ruin \xe2\x80\x94 crumbling walls, moldering \narches, rotten props, faded banners, and broken pavements, the sole memorials \nof the place. Just as all hope of the possible continued existence of St. Patrick\'s \nseemed given over, it entered the mind of a citizen of Dublin to renew it for his \ncountrymen for at least another 700 years ! Thus has St. Patrick\'s been restored \nat a cost estimated at ;^i 60,000, the princely outlay of Benjamin Lee Guinness, \nproprietor of the world- renowned porter brewery. \n\nThe church exhibits that style of architecture prevailing in Ireland at the \nclose of the twelfth and beginning of the thirteenth century \xe2\x80\x94 a style which pos- \nsesses many national characteristics ; and the restoration has been so complete \nthat it presents now as nearly as possible the same appearance it did over 600 \nyears ago. Such portions of new work as it was found necessary to introduce, are \ncarefully copied from the original designs, but a very considerable portion of the \nancient structure still remains visible, or has been simply recased where the stone \nhad suffered from the effects of either fire or water \xe2\x80\x94 the accidents or neglect of \ncenturies. Within the close or boundary once stood the palace of the archbishop, \nthe houses of the dean, and other dignitaries, which were in a state of decay \nand desolation until the work of renovation, Avhich was superintended by Mr. \nGuinness himself. " It was reopened for public worship on the 24th February, \n1865, in presence of the lord lieutenant, the Episcopal archbishop, and an immense \nassembly of distinguished citizens. The public fully appreciated the munificence \nof Mr. Guinness. The Queen, with universal approbation, soon after created \nhim a baronet. He was unanimously returned to Parliament as one of the city \nmembers, and when he died, the same honor was conferred upon his eldest son. \n\n\n\n350 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nfor his father\'s sake." Besides the interest which attaches to St. Patrick\'s Cathe- \ndral as the finest and most complete specimen of mediseval architecture remain- \ning in Ireland, it is connected with some grand historical ceremonies, some of \nwhich have been noticed : and some of the monuments in it will prove attractive \nto visitors as long as it exists. Here, beneath two simple marble slabs, rest the \nremains of Dean Swift and Mrs. Hester Johnston, known as " Stella." A bust \nof the great dean, which stands close by, was the gift of J. S. Faulkner, nephew \nand successor of Alderman John Faulkner, the original publisher of most of \nSwift\'s works. It is said to be a striking likeness. There is a tablet to Alex- \nander McGee, servant to the dean, erected by his " grateful master in memory \nof his discretion, fidelity, and diligence in that humble station." On the south \nside of the choir may be seen a full-length effigy of an ecclesiastic, discovered \nduring the recent work of restoration, and supposed to represent Archbishop \nComyn, the original builder of the cathedral. The monument of another arch- \nbishop, Michael Tregury, the builder of the tower, may be seen in the nave. A \nmonument of enormous height and architectural pretensions, erected in 1631 to \nthe memory of Richard Boyle, Earl of Cork, represents that nobleman, his wife, \nand a rather numerous family, in the costume of the period. This " unsightly relic \nof barbarism " originally stood in the choir, but it has been judiciously removed \nto the west end of the nave, where it forms a curious antiquarian study. Duke \nScomberg, who fell at the Boyne a.d. 1690, has an inscribed tablet in the northern \ntransept, and over it is hung the chain-shot by which General St. Ruth was killed \nat the battle of Aughrim. Among other monuments are those of Carolan, the \nlast of the Irish bards ; of Curran, the orator ; of Charles Wolfe, author of the \n" Burial of Sir John Moore ; " of Archbishop Whately ; of Lord Mayo, Governor \nGeneral of India; of Dame St. Leger, who was married to four husbands, and \nyet died at the age of ^"j ; of Samuel Lover, song-writer, artist, and novelist, and \na host of other distinguished men. A monument to Captain Boyd, late of H.M.S. \nAjax, who lost his life on the eastern pier at Kingstown while endeavoring to \nsave the crews of two perishing wrecks, will claim attention. The likeness is \nexcellent, and the captain is represented as seen a moment before the fatal wave \ncarried him and seven of his crew into eternity. A monument to the officers \nand men of the famous i8th Royal Irish who fell during the Indian mutiny, is \ndecorated with the bullet-torn colors of the regiment, which, after having traveled \nover half the globe and seen many years of eventful service, may still be consid- \nered in the service of the regiment. Apropos of banners, a picturesque effect of \nhistorical suggestiveness is produced by the armor and banners of the Knights of \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n351 \n\n\n\n/ \n\n\n\nthe Order of Saint Patrick, the ensigns of the living knights being openly sus- \npended from staves in the choir, those of the deceased knights being displayed \nin the body of the nave. The exquisitely designed and wonderfully wrought \nstone pulpit at the entrance to the choir may be considered as a monument, it \nhaving been erected by Guinness in memory of his friend, the late Dean Paken- \nham, who made great efforts to restore the Lady Chapel. In April, 1879, ^ firi^ \nmemorial window to William M. Balfe, the musical composer, \na native of Dublin, was unveiled in the south aisle. The genius \nof Erin, her left hand resting on an Irish harp, is represented \nin the act of placing the laurel wreath on the head of Balfe. It \nwas erected through the devoted efforts of Sir Robert Stewart, \nMus. Doc, one of the vicars choral of the Cathedral, who gave \nthree lectures on Irish music for the purpose. The music and \nchoral services at this cathedral are considered not second to \nany in the empire. \n\nThe most eminent Dean of St. Patrick\'s \xe2\x80\x94 and one of the \ngreatest writers and satirists of any time \xe2\x80\x94 Jonathan Swift, was \nborn on the 30th November, 1667, at No. 9 in Hoey\'s Court, \nat the house of his uncle. Counselor Godwin Swift. Hoey\'s \nCourt, in our memory, v,fas a dilapidated aperture between \nWerburgh Street and the Castle Steps, but in the seventeenth \ncentury was the abode of some of the chief lawyers of the city. \n\nOn coming into Dublin by the Liffey, the first grand object seen in the city \nis the Custom House \xe2\x80\x94 the architectural merits of which are of so striking a \ncharacter as to justly make it an object of pride with the inhabitants, and of \nadmiration with every tasteful visitor. It is on the north bank, and is truly a \ngrand edifice, " colossal and beautiful," says a recent writer,* " surpassing in mag- \nnificence the Custom House of London, having four fronts built of Irish granite \nand Portland stone." Brewer says, " as an object of architectural grandeur it is, \nperhaps, secondary only to the Bank, among those public buildings for which \nDublin is celebrated throughout Europe." The architect was James Gandon, to \nwhose genius Dublin is indebted for several architectural beauties. The four \nfronts are finished with equal care, the princpal being on the south, facing the \nriver. The form is an oblong quadrangle 375 feet long and 209 feet deep. The \nplan comprises a central pile 130 feet wide and extending the entire depth, two \n\n\n\n\nOgham Stone, in \nTrinity College. \n\n\n\n* Mr. George Wheeler in the London Graphic, who accompanied tlie British Association to Dublin in July, 1878. \n\n\n\n352 \n\n\n\nPICTURE SO UE IRE LA ND. \n\n\n\ninterior courts, respective!)\' east and west, and wings in the same directions. \nThe Doric order is adopted in the columns, and the embelHshments show some \nfelicitous additions to the austere simplicity of that style. In the center of the \ngrand south front four massive Doric columns support an entablature with pro- \njecting cornice and frieze of ox-heads connected by garlands. Above this is a \npediment, the tympanum of which is filled with grand sculpture, surmounted by \n\nnoble statues. Above the attic story \nrises a magnificent lantern, twenty-six \nfeet in diameter, adorned by an encir- \ncling colonnade of forty insulated pil- \nlars, with four flat canopies projecting \nfrom the quadrants. Over this is a \nsecond lantern, or clock story, from \nwhich springs a cupola of graceful \nconvergence 125 feet in height, sup- \nporting a statue of Hope resting on an \nanchor, 16 feet high. At either end \nof the front are square pavilions con- \nnected with the center by buildings of \nsimilar height and design, but pierced \nin the lower story by arcades, which \nadd a most picturesque effect of light \nand shade at all times. \n\nIn this grand and imposing front, not only the entire effect, but, as Mr. \nBrewer suggests, many of the minute embellishments are highly worthy of \ndeliberate and repeated examination. On the keystones of the arches of en- \ntrance \xe2\x80\x94 sixteen in number \xe2\x80\x94 are heads emblematic of so man)\' rivers of Ireland, \neach being indicated by the productions peculiar to the river and to its banks. \nIn the tympanum of the pediment is a group in alto relievo, representing Bri- \ntannia embracing Hibernia, holding emblems of Peace and Liberty. They are \nattended by Strength, Justice, and Victory. These figures are seated in a marine \nchariot, drawn by sea-horses, and attended by Tritons. At a little distance, a \nfleet of merchant vessels are nearing the shores of Ireland. All of these works \xe2\x80\x94 \nriver-heads and allegory \xe2\x80\x94 were designed and executed by Edward Smith, who \npossessed the vigor of imagination, originality of conception, and boldness of \nexecution, the combination of which is necessary to equip a great sculptor. The \nfour allegorical figures representing Industry, Commerce, Wealth, and Navigation, \n\n\n\n\nBell Tower, Trinity College. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n35: \n\n\n\nover the pediment on the south, and the statues over the north front on Beres- \nford Place representing the four quarters of the globe, are by the London sculp- \ntor, T. Banks, R.A. \n\nThe old Custom House was situated in Essex Street, but in consequence of \nthe rapidly increasing prosperity of the city, the Irish Parliament in 1794 voted \nhalf a million to erect this edifice. The customs and excise of Dublin alone are \nmanaged here, those of the rest of Ireland being transacted in London. There \nare in it, however, offices for the Boards of Public Works, Woods and Forests, \nStamps, Fisheries, and Poor-Law Commissioners. \n\nCarlisle Bridge, the first on the LifTey, and connecting Sackville, the greatest \nof the leading thoroughfares, and Westmoreland streets, is a point from which \n\n\n\n\nTrinity College \xe2\x80\x94 the Quadrangle. \n\n\n\nseveral views present themselves, unsurpassed, if equaled, in grandeur, beauty, \nand extent by any from one given point in any other city in Europe. The \nlong-continued line of quays extending through the center of the city from \nRingsend to King\'s Bridge, and making the river thus confined within solid \nmasonry like a broad canal spanned by eight bridges, presents varying scenes of \nactivity and interest ; in the inland distance the dome of the Four Courts, and \nspires of churches indicating historical or venerable localities. In the direction \nof the bay, and at a short distance, the Custom House is seen; and in front \nlooking north, Sackville Street filled with lofty houses and lined with splendid \nshops (stores). The delight and appreciation of travelers have made Sackville \nStreet in repute one of the streets of the world. The writer just quoted, in an \nunbiased description, briefly indicates the extent, character, leading features, and \npicturesqueness of the locality. He says, " There is no wider, or in point of \nvista, no more beautiful street in Europe," and that " there is much airiness and \nlightness and grace " about it, more than in the " bustling boulevard of America \xe2\x80\x94 \n23 \n\n\n\n354 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nthe Broadway of New York," and continues : " These effects are not produced \nby an absence of that animation which one expects to find in the center of a \ncapital, for there is abundance of it here, but the street is so expansive, Hke the \ngreat and busy Square at Alexandria more than anything else, and the houses \nand public buildings dwarf all street objects into such diminutiveness, that light \nIrish cars may be dashed past you, tramcars may be turning the corners of the \nstreets on their way to the terminus at the base of Nelson\'s Pillar, and coal drays \nin lines may be swiftly moving toward the ships moored to the quays, and yet \nneither all these, nor the hundreds of people on the broad pavements convey to \nyou ideas of crowding, or of that overwhelming ponderous business activity you \nget in either London or Liverpool. It is the grace of the place that is its prin- \ncipal charm. In no other street in the world will you at certain hours of the day \nsee so many young and beautiful women promenading up and down between the \ntrees (which afford some shelter as well as much ornamentation to the pathways), \nand the pleasant shops, and if these do not attract your gaze you have public \nbuildings with Ionic columns to glance at, and hotels \xe2\x80\x94 mansions of hotels \xe2\x80\x94 and \nnot those with flaming posters, glaring forth from chimney stacks and side walls ; \nand, lastly, you have right in the center of this street the Nelson Column with the \ngallant admiral standing bareheaded at the top and leaning against a capstan, \nand not, as on the London monument, against a tiny coil of rope \xe2\x80\x94 as if any one \ncould gain support from that ! If you want to take in all the picturesqueness at \nonce, you must stand on Carlisle Bridge and look down the roadway till your \neyes meet the Rotunda and the church spires that seem to pierce the sky above \nthe houses at the Rutland Square end of Sackville Street. You will at once \nadmit that it is no wonder this magnificent avenue is the favorite street of the \ncitizens of Dublin, for you can see nothing before you but taste and beauty and \nprosperity." \n\nThe General Post Office is a building remarkable for its elegance of de- \nsign, and excellent position. Standing in Sackville, at the southern corner of \nEarl Street, a fine view of the front elevation of the edifice with the portico \nin effective relief is obtained. The noble portico, eighty feet long, is thrown \nentirely across the sidewalk, without the aid of lateral columns, and consists of \nsix stately Ionic pillars, fluted, four and a half feet in diameter, supporting aa \nentablature, the frieze of which is enriched by the wild honeysuckle, executed in \nhigh relief. This supports a richly corniced pediment surmounted by statues \xe2\x80\x94 \nHibernia in the center, with Mercury on the right and Fidelity on the left. It \nwas designed by Francis Johnston, and the statues are by John Smyth. The \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. 355 \n\nfoundation was laid August 12, 18 14, by Lord Whitworth, Viceroy, and opened \non the 6th January, 1818, at a cost of ;^8o,ooo. \n\nThe Lying-in Hospital, a handsome building and noble charity, was founded \nthrough the indefatigable exertions of Dr. Bartholomew Mosse, and was opened \non the 8th December, 1757. It was the intention of the earnest founder to rear \nthe infants born in the Institution, give them appropriate education, and appren- \ntice them to trades. But this and other grand projects for the maintenance of \nhis favorite asylum were ended by his death at the early age of forty-seven, \nabout two years after its opening. The Rotunda, a series of fine rooms, used for \nmeetings, balls, and exhibitions, is at the corner of Rutland Square ; and the \nprofits accruing from both go to the support of the adjoining hospital. \n\nThe Nelson Monument is a tall fluted column of 70 feet, rising on a massive \npedestal of 30 feet, and supporting, on a Doric capital, a second pedestal, on \nwhich the statue, 13 feet, of the naval hero, rests ; making in all a height of 134 \nfeet. It stands near the Post Office, in the center of Sackville Street. In June \nof the present year (1879), ^ statue of Sir John Gray was erected in Sackville \nStreet. An associate of O\'Connell in the Repeal Trials of 1843, subsequently a \nMember of Parliament for Kilkenny City, owner and editor of the Freemaiis \nyournal, Gray was esteemed by the city for his efforts in bringing the Var- \ntry Water to its inhabitants. The statue, which stands midway between the \npillar and Carlisle Bridge, is said to be a fine work of art, the product of the \ngifted sculptor, Thomas Farrell, R. H.A., who also executed the noble statue of \nthe high-minded patriot William Smith O\'Brien, which stands near by. In the \nsame vicinity the corner-stone of a monument to O\'Connell was laid in August, \n1864. The accepted design was by John Henry Foley, who had nearly com- \npleted the model at the time of his death.\'* \n\n\n\n* It will not be out of place in a note to refer to this work, which, when completed, will be a monument to the \nsculptor\'s genius, not less than to tlie subject of it. The monument consists of tliree parts : \xe2\x80\x94 i. A drum, wliiclr is to rest \non a stone pedestal, on which is to stand the colossal figure of the great Tribune. 2. Four seated winged Victories, \nplaced at equal distances around the drum, and on the same elevation, but not reposing against it. 3. The figure of \nO\'Connell. The drum is ornamented with fifty figures which are grouped around it, fourteen in such high relief as to be \nregarded almost as statues. The principal figure is Erin trampling upon broken fetters, and pointing with her uplifted right \narm to O\'Connell. She stands seven feet and a half high. Her head is wreathed with shamrocks and her left hand holds \na scroll recording O\'Connell\'s deeds. The other figures in bold relief and seven feet high afe emblematic of Art, Science, \nReligion, Industry, Study, etc. This drum with its fifty figures was complete before Foley\'s death. The heads, the \nmost important parts of the four Victories, had been modeled for some time, and the sculptor had given the finishing \ntouches to the head of O\'Connell a few weeks before his fatal illness. The chief figure stands thirteen feet high. The \nshields emblematic of the four provinces were not modeled full size : but the great features of the design were left com- \npleted by the master\'s hand. \n\n\n\n356 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nAt the south side \nof Carlisle Bridge \xe2\x80\x94 \nthe beholder looking \ndown Westmoreland \nStreet, catches a side \nview of the front \nof Trinity College \non the left, facing \nCollege Green, the \nentrance to busy \nGrafton Street in \nthe distance ; and on \nthe right, the eastern \nportico and wing of \nthe Bank of Ireland. \nSo that standing on \nCarlisle Bridge a \nreally remarkable \nand beautiful series \nof views are at our \ncommand. As we \nAvrite, we learn from \na Dublin letter (June \n28, 1879), that old \nCarlisle Bridge is \nbeing taken down ; \nto be replaced by a \nlevel and wider \nstructure. \n\nThe Law Courts, \na noble series of \nbuildings known as \nthe \'\xe2\x96\xa0 Four Courts," \nmay vie with any edi- \nfice of modern times \nerected for a similar \npurpose. Situated \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n357 \n\n\n\non the north bank of the Liffey, the solid quay walls of which are here sur- \nmounted by a heavy balustrade from Richmond to Whitworth bridges, they \npresent a very noble appearance. They occupy the former site of the Dominican \nmonastery of Saint \nSaviour, and the \npile, completely \nisolated between \nPill Lane and Inns \nQuay on the north \nand south, and \nChancery Place \nand Morgan Place \non the east and \nwest, is deservedly \nesteemed, for gran- \ndeur of design and \neffect, as well as \nfor extent and con- \nvenience, as one of \nthe finest public \nbuildings in Dub- \nlin. The effect is \nespecially elegant \nand magnificent \nfrom the opposite \nside of the Liffey. \nThe plan consists \nof a center, with \ncourt-yards at \neither side, which \nare inclosed by \nbuildinofs for the of- \n\n\n\n\nLibra^y, Trinity College. \n\n\n\nficers of the different courts, entered by grand archways surmounted by emblems \nof Justice, Law, Security, etc., and connected with the center and wings by ele- \ngant open arcades. The grand front of the central edifice consists of a noble \nportico of six Corinthian columns, in the semicircular recess of which is the prin- \ncipal entrance to " the Hall." The columns support a suitably massive pediment, \n\n\n\n358 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nwith colossal statues of Moses on the apex, and Justice and Mercy on either side. \nAt the extremities of the balustrade, above coupled Corinthian pilasters are \nstatues, in sitting posture, of Wisdom and Authority. Over the center of the \nbody of the building rises a circular lantern, sixty-four feet in diameter, pierced \nby twelve windows, and exteriorly ornamented by twenty-four beautiful three- \nquarter columns, over which a handsome entablature continued all around forms \nthe verge of the capacious dome which crowns the whole. Interiorly the central \npile is square, the sides of which measure 140 feet, within which is a circle of 64 \nfeet diameter under the lantern. The Four Courts of Law occupy the angles of \nthe square, and the area of the circle is left for public accommodation as a com- \nmon hall. On a pedestal in the center stands a colossal statue of Truth, holding \na torch from which issue brilliant jets of gas to light the hall in the evenings. \nA statue of Sir Michael O\'Loghlen, Master of the Rolls, by the great sculptor \nHogan, will command attention. Round the hall are eight entrances approached \nby three steps, the southern leading from the grand portico, the opposite one to \na rectangular hall, leading to the rear of the building, to the Library up-stairs, \nand to the Rolls and Nisi Prius Courts. The eastern and western entrances \ncommunicate with the court-yards, and in the intervals are four entrances to the \nCourts of Chancery, Queen\'s Bench, Common Pleas, and Exchequer. Between \nthese entrances are coupled Corinthian columns 25 feet high, the upper parts being \nfluted, which support an attic pedestal with sunk panels over the eight openings \nbelow, those over the entrances to the courts containing bas-reliefs of four great \nhistorical events : i. William the Conqueror establishing courts of justice, feudal \nand Norman laws. 2. King John signing Magna Charta before the barons. \n3. Henry IL receiving the Irish chiefs, and granting a charter to the City of \nDublin. 4. James I. abolishing the Brehon laws, tanistry, gavelkind, gossipred, \nand publishing an Act of Oblivion. The whole, says Walsh, "with the sculpture \non the external of the building, are in the pure style of the antique, admirably \nexecuted by the able hand of Mr. Edward Smith, a native artist."" \n\n* Edward Smith was a man of superior genius. His name appears only once in the catalogues of the Irish Academy, \nin 1772, when he exhibited his model of the statue of Lucas, but he has left a number of admirable works on the public \nbuildings. " The figures on the Law Courts, and those on the east front of the Bank, are, in my judgment, worthy of \nany sculptor of any age or country. . . . His works have that sort of freshness about them that can only be pro- \nduced by minds endowed with great and just perceptions in art, and who look solely to nature for the materials by which \nthey are to convey in a tangible form these genuine expressions to the public mind. The proofs of his genius we have \nalready noticed, some others are in possession of the nobility. He appears to have resembled Goldsmith in mind, but \nRobert Burns in conduct, and both in genius. . . . His profession brought him, for several years, a large income, \nbut he realized nothing. At length, when the Royal Dublin Society established a school of sculpture. Smith was elected \nMaster at \xc2\xa3ioo a year, which he lield during the remainder of his life." \xe2\x80\x94 The Oiigiit, Progress, mid Present Condition of \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n359 \n\n\n\nThere are other appropriate historical decorations, embracing between the \neight windows of the dome colossal statues in alto-relievo of Liberty, Justice, \nWisdom, Law, Prudence, Mercy, Eloquence, and Punishment ; and in the frieze \nover the windows are medallions of eight eminent ancient law-givers, Moses, \nLycurgus, Solon, Numa, Confucius, Alfred, Man- \ncho Capac, and Ollamh Fodla. The rest of the \ndome is encircled with mosaic work to the vertex \nAvhich is perforated and admits a view into a void \nbetween two domes as in St, Paul\'s, London. This \ngrand edifice was designed by Thomas Cooley, who \nonly lived to complete the western wing. James \nGandon continued and finished the work which \noccupied fourteen years, and was opened in 1800. \n\nThe view presented (page 341), showing the en- \ntire fagade on Inn\'s Quay, is from the south side of \nthe Liffey, the artist standing near the corner of \nWood Quay (page 313), and Richmond Bridge. A \npart of Whitworth Bridge appears on the left, and \nthe steeple beyond is that of St. Paul\'s Roman \nCatholic parish church on Arran Quay. A few \npaces from the church on this quay is the house \n\n\n\nNo. \n\n\n\nin which Edmund Burke, " one of the \n\n\n\n\nBiythplaLC of Burke. \n\n\n\ngreatest of the sons of men " was born on New \nYear\'s Day, 1 730,* it having been occupied at the time by his father, an attorney \nof distinction of the period. His statue, by Foley, is in front of Trinity College. \nTo the west end rear of the Four Courts, leading from Whitworth Bridge is \nChurch Street, one of the oldest thoroughfares in the city. Here you will find \nthe old Danish church of St. Michan, with its fine square tower overlooking a \nreduced neighborhood of low houses. And yet, as Mr. Wheeler remarks, " it is \nnot all decrepitude and want, for there are one or two good iron foundries, and \ndroves of cattle are constantly pushed through the streets to a market-place \ncalled Smithfield." A religious house was built here in 1095, by St. Michanus, \nand on its site the present edifice, at various times, was erected. Up to 1700 it \n\n\n\nthe Fine Arts in Great Britain and Ireland, by W^. B. Sarsfield Taylor, Curator of the Living Model Academy, etc. \nVol. II., chap, xviii. London, 1841. \n\n* This is the date usually accepted. AUibone adopts 172S, as given in the last (London, 1852) edition of Burke\'s \nWorks. A claim has been made for No. 12 as Burke\'s birthplace. \n\n\n\n36o \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nwas the only church on the north side of the river. In addition to its antiquity, \nthis venerable structure is deeply interesting. Within its precincts many illus- \ntrious persons are at rest, among them the constitutional reformer Lucas, and \nthe patriots whose lives were sacrificed to their country \xe2\x80\x94 Rev. William Jackson, \n\nOliver Bond, the brothers Sheares, and Robert \nEmmet, whose " uninscribed tomb" may be \nseen in the churchyard near the south wall.* \nThe grave of Lucas is marked by a plain \nstone, raised by an admiring constituent. Sir \nEdward Newenham, knight, which recounts \nthe " incorrupt integrity, unconquered spirit, \njust judgment and glorious perseverance in \nthe great cause of Liberty, Virtue, and his \ncountry " which distinguished the labors of \nthe patriot, who died November 4th, 1771, at \nthe age of fifty-six. His character and stand- \ning are fairly indicated by the lines on this \nstone : \n\n" Lucas ! Hibernia\'s Friend, her joy and pride, \nHer powerful Bulwark, and her skillful guide, \nFirm in the Senate, steady to his Trust, \nUnmoved by fear, and obstinately just." \n\n\n\n\nSt. Mlcliaiis Church \xe2\x80\x94 Burial-place of \nEiiDiiet. \n\n\n\nIt is a suggestive commentary on the rela- \ntive position of England and Ireland in the \ndays of Lucas and in our day, to know that, when forced to fly from Ireland he \nhad only to cross the channel to find a refuge, and that even the principles \nwhich caused his exile from Ireland recommended him to the welcome of Eng- \nland. Of him, under such circumstances, old Sam Johnson said, " Let the man \nthus driven into exile, for having been the friend of his country, be received in \nevery other place as a confessor of liberty ; and let the tools of power be taught \nin time, that they may rob, but cannot impoverish." The record on the tomb- \nstone of the betrayed member of the United Irish Directory, who appears to \n\n\n\n* Emmet\'s request in the celebrated speech before receiving sentence of death, was that his "tomb remain unin- \nscribed," until his country " takes her place among the nations of the earth." From childhood the writer, who was born, \nhe might say, within the shadow of St. Michan\'s, has always been led to believe that Emmet was buried here ; state- \nments, however, given in the appendix to The Sham Squire; and the Informers of lytjS, etc., by William J. Fitz-Patrick, \n1866, would indicate the locality of " the uninscribed tomb " as the old cemetery at Glasnevin, near a private door leading \ninto it from the demesne of Delville. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n361 \n\n\n\nhave been murdered in prison by connivance of the authorities, is brief : " Sacred \nto the memory of OHver Bond, who died the 6th of September, 1798, in the 37th \nyear of his age. The noblest work of God\'s an honest man." \n\nThe vaults beneath the edifice are among \nthe marvels of the age, possessing antiseptic \nqualities of such effectiveness that a score of \nbodies interred centuries ago are preserved \nso remarkably that the form and feature of \nlife is easily distinguishable. The skin is in \nmost cases intact, the teeth have not fallen \nfrom their places, and in some instances \nthe adornments and coverings still envelop \nthe perfect though discolored heads and \nlimbs as though moth and dust and worms \ndid not exist. The peer, the patriot, and \nthe poor all lie here together ; and could the \nrelatives of the departed themselves come \nto life again, they could have no difficulty \nin identifying kinsmen. The wonderful ef- \nfect produced is attributed to two causes : \nfirst, it is said, that the graveyard was built \non the site of an old bog forest, and every \nvisitor to the Royal Irish Academy can \nsatisfy himself of the wonderful preserving \nproperty inherent in the Irish peat soil ; \nsecondly, it is believed that the vaults are \nbuilt with Phoenician lime, which becomes so \ndry and hard that no destructive agent can \npenetrate through it. \n\nA visitor to these vaults in 1822 de- \n\nscribed the bodies of John and Henry O Conndl Monumuit, Uasiuvm \n\nSheares, which are deposited there. " I had been told that they were here, and \nthe moment the light of the taper fell upon the spot they occupy, I quickly recog- \nnized them by one or two circumstances that forcibly recalled the close of their \ncareer \xe2\x80\x94 the headless trunks and the remains of the coarse, unadorned penal \nshells, to which it seemed necessary to public justice that they should be con- \nsigned. Henry\'s head was lying by his brother\'s side ; John\'s had not been com- \n\n\n\n\n362 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\npletely detached by the blow of the executioner. One of the ligaments of the \nneck still connects it with the body." Dr. R. R. Madden, the biographer of the \nUnited Irishmen, with reverent care, has had the bodies inclosed in coffins of \nlead and Irish oak.* To add to the attractions of this old church, its acoustic \narrangements are excellent, and the organ has an especial value in the estimation \nof the virtuoso, for it is that on which Handel played his " Messiah " for the first \ntime in public \xe2\x80\x94 an event that took place in the old Fishamble Street Music Hall, \nsoon after its construction in 1741, and from which the honored instrument was \nsubsequently removed to St. Michan\'s. \n\nReturning from this venerable structure we may cross Whitworth bridge, \nand take the line of quays on the southern side of the Liffey to Carlisle bridge ; \nor we may enter Lower Bridge Street, where, at No. 9, Oliver Bond and other \nUnited Irish leaders, In secret council, were seized by the government, having \nbeen betrayed by the infamous Thomas Reynolds. Turning to the left, through \nold Cook Street to Wine-Tavern Street, we round the steep abutments of Christ\'s \nChurch (p. 311), and can visit several historical localities \xe2\x80\x94 among them Back \nLane, where is the old Tailors\' Hall, which was to the Irish Catholic reformers \nand patriots of the last century what Carpenter\'s Hall in Philadelphia, and \nFaneuil Hall in Boston, respectively, were to the American patriots of those \ncities in the revolutionary era ; also the little graveyard adjoining St. Werburgh\'s \nChurch, where admission may be obtained to the vault which holds the remains \nof Lord Edward Fitzgerald. Following the Cathedral railings to Castle Street, \nwe turn in at the Castle gate, and view the collection of old historical buildings \nwhich form "The Castle" (pp. 329-333), the seat of the vice-regal govern- \nment ; or, going partly down Cork Hill, view the more modern and beautiful \nCity Hall, the seat of the municipal government. \n\nThe Castle of Dublin contains the town residences of the Lord Lieutenant \nand principal officers of state, and the executive offices of the government, in- \ncluding the Ordnance and Metropolitan Police. It is situated on an elevation \nnear the center of the city, and consists principally of two large quadrangles, \nwith attached wings, which cover within the walls ten and a half acres. The \nhistory of Dublin Castle would be, to a great extent, the history of the city, and \ninvolves politically much of the history of Ireland. In its earlier period it was a \nfortress, intended, as King John\'s patent to Meyler Fitz-Henry read, "as well to \ncurb the city as to defend it." Within its precincts were a chapel, a jail, a mill, \n\n* See Sullivan\'s Dublin Guide-Book, a most useful and enlightening epitome of many and cumbrous volumes, indi \neating the chief objects of public interest, ancient and modern, in the Irish Metropolis. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. 363 \n\nand other buildings for the convenience of a garrison ; and the walls were forti- \nfied with bastions and gate-towers, and nearly surrounded by a moat. It would \nappear that previous to the reign of Elizabeth the viceroys, lords deputy, or chief \ngovernors, had no fixed place of residence, but held court sometimes at Thomas \nCourt, at the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, and frequently in the Castle of \nKilmainham. Sir Henry Sidney seems to have been the first lord deputy who \nresided in the Castle. Soon after parliaments and high courts of law were held in \nit, and so continued with slight exceptions until the restoration of Charles II., \nafter which places were specially designated for the courts and parliaments. \nThe Bermingham Tower was long used as a dungeon, and many Irish chiefs, \nbishops, and priests were incarcerated in it, died there, or were led out only to \nexecution. Some achieved wonderful and romantic escapes from it : such as Don- \nald Art McMurrough, in 1388 ; Hugh O\'Donnell, in 1587, and, having been \nrecaptured in the Dublin Mountains, again, with Henry and Art O\'Neill, in \n1592 ; and young Nugent, Lord Delvin, who made his way to London and \npleaded his case before King James I., who, struck by his ingenuous confidence, \nrestored him to his estates and honors. During the wars of centuries with the \nIrish and those who became " more Irish," the spikes over the gates were rarely \nwithout the heads of some chief. For years the head of the great Ulster chief, \nShane O\'Neill, who was treacherously entrapped to a banquet by a government \nagent and slain in 1567, might have been seen on these battlements, and later, \nthe head of Feagh McHugh O\'Byrne, the Wicklow chief, was impaled here, \nand afterward sent as an assuring gift to Elizabeth. \n\nThe Castle Chapel \xe2\x80\x94 of which we have given both exterior and interior views \n\xe2\x80\x94 is the most attractive, as it is the most modern building (opened in 18 14), \nwithin the walls. It is elaborately ornamented with carvings in oak ; and the \ndecorations are of a rich and artistic character. Of the interior of the Castle \napartments during seasons of festivity, descriptions, more or less full, are given \nin the writings of some novelists, especially of Lady Morgan and Charles \nLever. N. P. Willis gave a characteristic scene also, in which his impression of \nIrish beauty may well come under the head of picturesque : " Physically, Irish \nwomen are probably the finest race in the world \xe2\x80\x94 I mean, taller, better \nlimbed and chested, larger eyed, and with more luxuriant hair, and freer ac- \ntion than any other nation I have observed. The Phoenician and Spanish \nblood, which has run hundreds of years in their veins, still kindles its dark \nfire in their eyes, and with the vivacity of the northern mind and the bright color \nof the northern skin, these southern qualities mingle in most admirable and \n\n\n\n364 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQ UE IRE LA ND. \n\n\n\nsuperb harmony. The idea we form of Italian and Grecian beauty is never re- \nalized in Greece and \nItaly, but we find it \nin Ireland, height- \nened and exceeded. \nCheeks and lips of \nthe delicacy and \nbright tint of car- \nnation, with snowy \nteeth, and hair and \neyebrows of jet, are \nwhat we should \nlook for on the pal- \nette of Apelles, \ncould we recall the \npainter, and reani- \nmate his far-famed \nmodels ; and these \nvaried charms, unit- \ned, fall very com- \nmonly to the share \nof the fair Milesian \nof the upper classes. \nIn other lands of \ndark eyes, the rare- \nness of a fine-grain- \ned skin, so necessa- \nry\' to a brunette, \nmakes beauty as \nrare ; but whether \nit is the damp soft- \nness of the climate \nor the infusion of \nSaxon blood, a \ncoarse skin is al- \nmost never seen in \nIreland." * \n\n\n\n\nv> \n\n\n\nFamous Persons and Places, by N. P. Willis, pp. 309-310. Tliis is liuly a liriUiantly suggestive idea of Irish \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n365 \n\n\n\nThe Castle contains portraits of the viceroys for nearly two hundred years \xe2\x80\x94 \nthe Buckinghams, Westmorelands, Dorsets, Townshends, and nearly every noble \nfamily in England. " A study of these portraits," says the writer of a brilliant \npaper on the Castle, in 1866, " is full of profit, and in these faces we might almost \nread the story \n\n\n\nof the govern- \nment of the \ncountry. For \nhere are clever, \nand weak, and \ncunning faces ; \nopen, jovial, \nand unsuspi- \ncious counte- \nnances ; the \nreckless Town- \nsliend, the free, \ndebauched Rut- \nland, the diplo- \nmatic Claren- \ndon, the good- \nnatured Eglin- \nton, and the \ngenial Car- \nlisle." \n\nThe City \nHall, designed \nby Thomas \nCooley \xe2\x80\x94 was \noriginally \nfounded in \n1 769, as an Ex- \nchange former- \n\n\n\n\nJIoiisc pf Lords \xe2\x80\x94 Old Parliainent House. \n\n\n\nfemale beauty ; but it may be remarked in passing, that English travelers, like Inglis, Hall, Thackeray, and still later, \nSir John Forbes, have dwelt iipon the beauty of the rural classes, and without imputing the " infusion of Saxon blood," \nas forcibly as Willis dwells on that of the " fair Milesians of the upper classes." It is a subject that may command \nfurther attention. \n\n\n\n366 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nchants, but was often used for other purposes, inhumanly so during the " Ter- \nror " of \'98, when mock trials, pitch caps and triangles were applied to suspected \npatriots. It is more favorably known, as the place where O\'Connell, on the \n13th of January, 1800, made his first speech against \nthe Union he afterward so powerfully sought to re- \npeal. It became the property of the Corporation in \n1852. The grand hall contains some notable statues: \nHogan\'s noble and colossal figure of O\'Connell, which \nfulfills the adjuration of the poet Davis to the sculp- \ntor when engaged on the statue ; Chantrey\'s speaking \nlikeness of Grattan ; Smith\'s vigorous form of Lucas, and \nHogan\'s fine statue of Under-Secretary Drummond, a \nScotchman, who requested to be buried in Ireland, " the \nland of his adoption." He it was who told the Irish \nlandlords that " property has its duties as well as its \nrights." There is also a bronze statue of George III., \nby Van Nost, the gift of the Earl of Northumberland, \nwhen Viceroy. The City Hall presents to view three \nsides, two of which are richly decorated in Corinthian \nstyle, and from the combined advantages of its position, \nunique form, and architectural elegance adds very much \nto the approach to the upper gate of " The Castle." \n\nFrom the balustrade of the front portico a lively and \ninteresting view is presented: directly opposite Parlia- \nment Street leads to Essex (now Grattan) Bridge, which connects with Capel \nStreet; while to the right Dame Street ex- \ntends to College Green \xe2\x80\x94 all thoroughfares \nof gayety and busy life. The last named is a \nfamous plaza ; and its surroundings, not less \nthan its name, recall many scenes, transac- \ntions, and aspirations of history, intellect, and \npatriotism. Here is the famous old eques- \ntrian statue of William III. (p. 336), natu- \nrally looking toward the Castle ; and further \non, that of Grattan, in the attitude of oration, appropriately raised on the parade \nground of the Volunteers of \'82, and facing those of Burke and Goldsmith in \nfront of his and their Alma Mater, " Old Trinity ; " while on his left is the Old \n\n\n\n\nThe Bank \xe2\x80\x94 Eastern Facade \nand Portico from College Gate. \n\n\n\n\nSt PitinVs \n\n\n\nShrine of the Bell. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n367 \n\n\n\nParliament House, with which his eloquence is forever associated. The erec- \ntion of this statue, one of Foley\'s best works, and in this suggestive place, \nwas mainly due to the energy and liberality of Alexander M. Sullivan, M.P. \nThe site had been granted for the Albert Memorial, but Mr. Sullivan, showing \nthat while for the prince there were many sites, for the patriot no other site was \nso fitting, created such an agitation as led the Corporation to rescind its grant. \nSubsequently Mr. Sullivan was imprisoned for " seditious " articles referring to the \nManchester Martyrs, and on his release was presented with an address and a \ntestimonial of ^300, which latter sum he at once allocated as the nucleus of a \nfund for the statue to \nGrattan, which was un- \nveiled by the patriot\'s \ngranddaughter, Lady \nLaura Grattan, on the \n6th of July, 1876, in \nthe presence of an im- \nmense demonstration \nof trades and citizens, \npresided over by Lord \nGort. The Albert \nMemorial, by the same \nsculptor, was erected \non the lawn of the \nRoyal Dublin Society, \nwith the Museum and \nthe National Gallery \non either hand. \n\nThe University of Dublin, or "College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity," \nas already stated (p. 312), was opened in 1593. Of course it has undergone many \nimprovements, since its foundation, in architectural expansion as well as in other \nrespects. The three fellows \xe2\x80\x94 FuUerton, Hamilton, and Ussher \xe2\x80\x94 who used to ad- \nvise the provost \xe2\x80\x94 Loftus \xe2\x80\x94 in the Elizabethan days, have since developed into a \nSenate of seven Senior and twenty-six Junior Fellows, all of whom, unlike their \ncolleagues at Oxford and Cambridge, are allowed to take unto themselves wives, \nand in order that they may support their wives in comfort and dignity, are per- \nmitted to hold their Fellowship till they die. There are thirty-one Professorships, \nincluding chairs for oratory, music, and the development of the Irish language. \n\n\n\n\nSt. Stephen\'s Green \xe2\x80\x94 North Side. \n\n\n\n368 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nAs it was founded on a plundered monastery, it was, after some early financial \ntrials, sustained by confiscations. For two centuries Catholics were debarred of \nits benefits ; and, as if to mark the era of dawning light, almost the very first youth \nwho availed himself of the partial removal of the ban against his creed, and \n\nentered Trinity Col- \nlege, in 1 793, arose to \nbe the representative \nlyrist of the Land of \nSong. It was Thomas \nMoore, whose scholar- \nship, though denied \neven honorary rewards \nin college, undoubted- \nly developed resources \nwhich contributed to \nhis world-wide renown. \nSlight as was the con- \ncession to growing in- \ntelligence which per- \nmitted Catholics to ob- \ntain a certain amount of \neducation in the "Na- \ntional University" of \nCatholic Ireland, it is \ndeemed creditable to its \nspirit that Trinity Col- \nlege took this step long \nbefore either of the \nEnglish Universities \nmade up their minds \nto be equally liberal. \nFurther reforms f o 1- \nlowed, until, after the \n\n\n\n\nGrafton Slrect\xe2\x80\x94Banl: on left- \n\n\n\ndisestablishment of the Anglican Church in Ireland, Trinity cast off the remnants \nof its exclusively Protestant statutes, and threw open the whole institution, its \nfellowships and professorships, its honors and emoluments, to all, irrespective \nof creed. Although intended to be the intellectual garrison and training school \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n369 \n\n\n\nof the English interest in Ireland, its roll of students contains the names of some \nof the most illustrious patriots and martyrs of the national cause, from Swift, \nBerkeley, and Molyneux, to the present day. The great lights of the Irish Par- \nliament, Flood, Grattan, Curran, Hussey Burgh, Plunket, Speaker Foster, and \nothers ; the most historic martyrs of \'98, Fitzgerald, Wolfe Tone, the Sheares, \nand Emmet ; among the ablest of the \n" Young Ireland" and \'48 movement, \nThomas Davis, John Mitchel, T. \nDevin Reilly, John Martin, John B. \nDillon ; of those who connected \n\'48 with the Fenian movement, John \nO\'Mahony ; the founder of the Home \nRule League, Isaac Butt, were all \nstudents of Trinity. Irrespective of \nthese, a long list might be made of \nTrinity men who have been pre- \nertiinent in intellectual activity and \nachievement in separate spheres, as \nSoutherne, Burke, Goldsmith, Lord \nMacartney, Malone, Maginn, Anster, \nTodd, and Lever. To this University \nbelongs the honor of having first \nscholastically recognized the merits of \nSamuel Johnson, and conferred upon \nhim the degree of doctor. \n\nThe principal exterior front of \nthe University buildings is a struc- \nture of the Corinthian order, 308 feet \nin length, four stories in height, ter- \nminating with two handsome pavil- \nions, ornamented with coupled pilas- \nters, and elevated above the main \nbuilding by an attic surmounted by a balustrade. Over the arch of the principal \nentrance is a pediment supported by four tall Corinthian columns; and in the \ncourt-yard, at either side, the statues of Burke and Goldsmith. The effect of this, \nwith the old Senate House, which is at right angles to it, gives to the open plaza \nan appearance jaerhaps not to be rivaled by any other of the beautiful views m \n24 \n\n\n\n\nAlbert Memorial. \n\n\n\n370 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nDublin. Within the college boundaries are four quadrangles which extend back- \nward for more than a quarter of a mile. All of these contain lofty stone resi- \ndences. Behind these again, extending another quarter of a mile, is the College \nPark, of thirteen and one-half acres, wherein is held the famous Annual Athletic \nMeeting. In the center of the two front quadrangles is a beautiful campanile, \nthe bells of which correspond in their boom with those of St. Paul\'s, London. \nThis structure is ornamented by statues of Divinity, Medicine, Law, and Science, \nand cost _;^ii,ooo. When the excavations were being made for its erection, \nsome stone coffins and part of the old priory were discovered. The human \nremains were reinterred beneath the cloisters in the present chapel, where also \nmay be seen the coffins of nearly all the provosts. \n\nThe various University halls and museums contain monuments, portraits, and \narchseological remains of the deepest interest. The Library is esteemed one of \nthe noblest apartments of the kind in Europe. Among its many MSS. and illu- \nr- - \xe2\x80\x9e^gfea i minated treasures are the Book of \n\nKells,\'the Book of Dimna, the Book \nof Armagh, the Liber Hymnorum, arid \nother ancient Gaelic manuscripts. \n\nAttention has been already di- \nrected to the history and sittings of \nthe Irish Parliament in Dublin, from \nthe return of Charles II. to its ex- \ntinction in 1800. It only remains in \nthis connection to echo the opinion \nof all writers on the beauty of the \nstructure which is associated with so many thrilling scenes and memories of the \npast, and so many hopes for the future in the aspirations of the Irish race all \nover the world. The Old Parliament House \xe2\x80\x94 now the Bank of Ireland \xe2\x80\x94 in Col- \nlege Green, "is decidedly the noblest specimen of architecture which the metropo- \nlis can boast ; indeed, it is scarcely saying too much to assert that it is unequaled \nin grandeur of design, simplicity of arrangement, and majesty of effect by any pub- \nlic building in the empire." In 1794, James Malton, the artist, thought it "no \nhyperbole to say, that this edifice, in the entire. Is the grandest, most convenient, \nand most extensive of the kind in Europe." It is built entirely of Portland stone, \nis remarkable for its rigidly simple, pure, and classic style ; and derives its all-per- \nvading potent effect from the expression of simplicity without meretricious embel- \nlishment. Its beauty is derived, says the artist quoted, " from a simple impulse of \n\n\n\n\nBloody Bridge. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n371 \n\n\n\nfine art : and is one of the few instances of form only expressing true symmetry." \nThe principal front is formed by a noble Ionic colonnade, raised on a flight of steps, \nand ranged round three sides of a spacious quadrangular recess. The colonnade \nsupports an entablature and cornice of the same order, surmounted by an attic. \nIn the center of the recess a fine portico of four Ionic columns projects, sustain- \ning a tympanum with the royal arms, while the apex is adorned with a colossal \nstatue \xe2\x80\x94 Hibernia \xe2\x80\x94 with Fidelity on the western and Commerce on the eastern \npoints. Circular screen walls behind columns connect the central pile with the \nwestern and eastern fronts. The latter was added for more convenient entrance \nto the House of Peers, but is of the Corinthian order, an incongruity which is \nexplained by a witticism of the architect, Gandon. While the workmen were \nplacing the capitals, he overheard a looker-on, who noticed the difference, \nsay, "What order is that?" and promptly replied, "A substantial order \xe2\x80\x94 the \norder of the House of Lords." Over the east portico are statues of Fortitude, \nJustice, and Liberty. The original architect. of the noble \nedifice seems to be unknown. \' It was executed under \nthe direction of Sir Edward Lovett Pearce, surveyor- \ngeneral of Ireland, whose name is on all the ofificial \nplans ; and completed by Arthur Dobbs, who succeeded \nto that office. It was said at the time that Pearce ob- \ntained the design from Richard Castle or Castelli, the \narchitect of the Royal Dublin Society (Leinster) House; \nbut the statement is doubted. The building came into \npossession of the Bank of Ireland in 1802, when the \nHouse of Commons was dismantled for its new pur- \nposes. The House of Lords has undergone little \nchange. It is a noble apartment. In the recess oc- \ncupied by the throne is a statue of George III., and on the mahogany walls are \nhung two famous pieces of tapestry, the work of Thomas Baillie, of Dublin, de- \npicting the battle of the Boyne and the defense of Londonderry. Various arti- \ncles of furniture from both of the legislative chambers have been distributed \naway from the places they once adorned. The chair of the Speaker of the \nHouse of Lords is now in the Royal Irish Academy, Dawson Street, and that of \nthe House of Commons is possessed by the Royal Dublin Society. The mag- \nnificent chandelier of the House of Commons now hangs from the ceiling of the \nExamination Hall in Trinity College. The government demanded the mace \nfrom Speaker Foster, but the latter declined to yield it, saying, that until the \n\n\n\n\n^tatuc of Fail oj Ca?liik \n\n\n\n\nSnckvillc Street. \n\n\n\nCciicnl P -t Office. \nIRD\'S-EVE VIEW OF DUBLIN FROM \nDublin Mountains in \n\n\n\n\nTHE SUMMIT OF NELSON\'S PILLAR, \nthe Southern Distance. \n\n\n\n374 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nbody that intrusted it to his keeping demanded it, he would preserve it for them. \nIt is now in possession of his grandson, Lord Massareene. \n\nFrom this central point a number of interesting places, which are connected \nwith illustrious names and historical acts, are of easy access ; Church Lane and \nTrinity Street are small thoroughfares off College Green. From the former, at \nNo. 4, The Press, the great national organ in \'98, was issued. In its columns, \nwith other of Drennan\'s poems, originally appeared " When Erin first rose," in \nwhich the world-famous epithet " Emerald Isle" is first applied to Ireland. In \nthe latter, at adjoining offices, were issued the United Irishman (No. 12), The \nIrish Tribune (No. 11), and The Irish Felon, \\n\\2>. A short distance from \nthe bank is D\'Olier Street, where, at No. 4, was issued, for years before \'48, The \n\nNation, the \ngreatest of \nIrish jour- \nnals. Turn- \ning our steps \nup Grafton \nStreet, we \npass, at the \ncorner of \nJ ohnson \'s \nCourt, the \nhouse where \nyoungBrins- \nley Sheri- \nd a n and \nTom Moore \n\nwent to school to the facile Samuel Whyte, and soon reach St. Stephen\'s Green. \nThere are several fine squares, surrounded by substantial and excellent resi- \ndences and other buildings, which are embellishments to the Irish Metropolis. \nThe principal are Merrion, Fitzwilliam, Rutland, and Mountjoy Squares. Of \nthese any city might be proud ; but St. Stephen\'s Green is still more attractive, \nand is the largest city square in Europe. The inclosure, which was formerly a \nplace of execution, occupies some eighteen acres suitably laid out and planted. \nIn the center there is an equestrian statue of George II., by Van Nost, and on \nthe north side a statue of the Earl of Eglinton, twice viceroy. Surrounding the \nGreen on either side are several eminent educational, scientific, religious, and \n\n\n\n\nView in Phwnix Park. \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n375 \n\n\n\ncharitable institutions, chief of which are the Catholic University, the Royal \nCollege of Surgeons, the elegant pediment of which is surrounded by statues of \n^sculapius, Minerva, and Hygieia ; the Royal College of Science, the Wes- \nleyan Centenary Chapel, St. Vincent\'s Hospital, in charge of the Sisters of \nCharity, and a Unitarian chapel. Among these features may be mentioned the \ntown residence of Sir Arthur Guinness, by whose liberality the Green has been \ndecorated and opened to the public, the Shelburne Hotel, and the houses of the \nDublin University Club, the Hibernian United Service Club, and the St. Ste- \nphen\'s Green Club ; while the south-east corner immediately leads to the Exhibi- \ntion Palace, a beautiful structure, adapted for all varieties of public entertainment, \ninstruction, and recreation. But a short distance from the west side, turning off \nby the College of Surgeons, is the house, at the corner of Aungier and Longford \nStreets, in which Thomas \nMoore was born and reared. \nFrom the north-east side \nwe can reach Merrion Street, \nwhere is, at No. 24, Morn- \nington House (p. 335), for- \nmerly the Dublin residence \nof Wellington\'s father, at \npresent the office of the \nIrish Church Temporalities \nCommission. In the opinion \nof Sir Bernard Burke, C.B., the distinguished Ulster king-of-arms, Wellington \nwas born in this house, and we refer to his conclusion here as a matter of justice, \nas in the article on Meath we expressed a different opinion, chiefly based on \nthe researches of Dr. O\'Donovan, given in Wilde\'s Boyne and Blackwater. \n\nA few steps brings us to the National Gallery, which contains a collection \nwhich may fairly claim a place among European galleries of the second rank, \nwhile it contains some pictures of the Italian, Dutch, Flemish, and Spanish \nschools which might worthily find a place in those of the first. In the \nmodern department prominence is naturally given to such native artists as \nMaclise, Danby, O\'Connor, Roberts, and others ; but there are also fine \npictures by Wilkie, Leslie, and some continental artists. The National Portrait \nGallery is fortunate in the high standard of merit that has been preserved in the \npictures, independent of the interest of their subjects. Reynolds, Gainsborough, \nHogarth, Lawrence, are worthily represented. One of the most attractive \n\n\n\n\nTunnel tinder Phanix Park. \n\n\n\n376 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nworks is a delicately finished portrait of Lady Morgan, author of the famous \nlyrics, " Savourneen Deelish," and " Kate Kearney," and of many national novels. \nThe gallery is free to the public, save on Fridays and Saturdays, which are re- \nserved for art students. Here, on the lawn, are the Albert Memorial, the \nstatue to Dargan, and a bust of Balfe, by Farrell. \n\nBack of Leinster Lawn is the Royal Dublin Society, which " has the undoubted \nmerit of being the father of all similar societies now existing in Europe." It was \nfounded in 1731, for the promotion of husbandry, manufactures, and other useful \narts and sciences. In addition to regular lectures by eminent professors, and \nexhibitions in furtherance of these purposes, it maintains free schools of art, \nembracing figure, landscape and ornament, architecture and sculpture. Among \nits most famous students were James Barry, Henry Tresham, Sir Martin Archer \n\n\n\nr-^ \n\n\n\n\nVtLt- Regal Lotljc, PhiTHix 1 ark \n\nShee, President of the Royal Academy, London ; Martin Cregan, President of \nthe Royal Hibernian Academy, the painters ; and Behnes, Foley, and Farrell, \nthe sculptors. In the hall is a colossal statue of George IV., in the robes of \nthe order of St. Patrick, a work of great merit, by Behnes ; and two groups \xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x96\xa0 \nAdam and Eve lamenting over the body of Abel, by Gallagher, and Theseus \nand Hippodamia by Panormo \xe2\x80\x94 early works of striking effect by pupils of the \ninstitution. The palatial building which fronts on Kildare Street was formerly \nthe residence of the Duke of Leinster, and otherwise notably historical for the \nescape of Lord Edward Fitzgerald from the town-major and his ofificers by means \nof a spiral staircase. The House of the Royal Hibernian Academy, though not \npretentious, is in good taste. It was the gift of its first president, Francis John- \nston, architect. The exhibitions are, like those of London and New York, \nevents of considerable interest. Among- the most eminent exhibitors from time \n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n177 \n\n\n\nto time have been Shee, Maclise, Danby, Mulready, MacDowell, Petrie, Turner, \nBurton, Boddington, Comerford, Mulrenin, Lover, Rothwell, Catterson Smith, \nStanfield, and others. \n\nOn the other side of Abbey Street is Metropolitan Hall, formerly the Music \nHall, a noted place of meeting in \'48, and assured an historical remembrance \nfrom the fact that many of Meagher\'s thrillingly earnest and vigorous speeches \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nClondalkin, Southern Approach. \n\nwere delivered there. Around the corner, in Marlborough Street, is the Church \nof the Conception, the Roman Catholic Pro-Cathedral of Dublin. It is a massive \nand beautiful edifice in the Greek style, and was the first grand structure erected \nby the Catholics after the comparative removal of the penal laws. It was designed \nby John Sweetman, an exile of \'98, who furnished a complete model, and secretly \nvisited Ireland after its completion to see it. From the purchase of the site to \n\n\n\n378 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nthe dedication was some twenty-two years, owing to want of means. The inte- \nrior consists of a lengthened nave and side aisles, divided by stately rows of mass- \nive Doric columns supporting an architrave and entablature, and an arched ceiling \nsurmounted by a lofty dome. The high altar is by Turnerrelli, and in the con- \ncave apse over it is an original and highly admired bas-relief \xe2\x80\x94 the figures being \nlife size \xe2\x80\x94 of the Ascension, by John Smith. \n\nAt a short distance from the Royal Dublin Society \xe2\x80\x94 passing through Moles- \nworth Street \xe2\x80\x94 is the Royal Irish Academy, a visit to which is of unsurpassed in- \nterest to the student and archaeologist, as it contains the finest collection of \nCeltic antiquities in the world, a description of which is indicated in Sir William \nWilde\'s catalogue, but might occupy volumes. Here are to be found the treasured \nrelics of Irish civilization in flint and bronze weapons, exquisite gold ornaments, \nand wonderfully written and illuminated manuscripts, in the days when Ireland \n\nwas, in the words of Dr. Johnson, \n"the School of the West, the quiet \nhabitation of sanctity and literature." \nAmong the precious treasures of the \n" strong room " are the Tara brooch, \nthe cross of Cong, and St. Patrick\'s \nbell and its shrine. Of the cross we \nshall speak hereafter. The bell is \nJ. r; J ,, \xe2\x96\xa0 T^ ^ .7 A7 /7 quite plain and battered ; the shrine, \n\nDistant View of Clondalkm Tower from the North. 1 r \n\na blaze of gold and precious stones, \nbears date of the eleventh century, and an inscription on it traces the antiquity \nand ownership of the bell itself, which leaves no doubt on the mind of the learned \nO\'Curry that it is " the Finn Faidheach, or \' sweet sounding,\' that was once used \nby the saint himself." Among other treasures, ancient and modern, are the auto- \ngraph originals of The Annals of the Fotir Masters, and the library and little \nharp of Thomas Moore, presented by the widow of the poet. At either side of \nthe academy are the Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord Mayor, \nwhich contains some good historical portraits; and -St. Anne\'s Church, in a \nvault of which lie the remains of the poetess Felicia Hemans. \n\nFrom these repositories and reminders of the past we seek the open air again \nwith a sense of refreshment. Taking our way westward by the southern quays, \nwe pass Bloody Bridge and over King\'s Bridge to the Phoenix Park, within the \nentrance to which is a bronze statue of Lord Carlisle. This magnificent recrea- \ntion ground of Dubliners contains over 1,752 acres. The drive straight through, \n\n\n\n\nDUBLIN. \n\n\n\n379 \n\n\n\nfrom the Dublin gate to Castleknock gate, is two miles and thirty perches in \nlength. Although there is a column erected by Lord Chesterfield, with a phoenix \n\xe2\x96\xa0on it illustrating the present name, the title is a corruption of Fioun-uisge (pro- \nnounced finniske), fair or clear water, a chalybeate spring in a glen near the \nentrance to the Vice-regal Lodge, the country-seat of the Lord Lieutenant. A \nprominent object in the park is the Wellington Testimonial, a huge obelisk \nwith the victories of the " Iron Duke" inscribed on its sides, and, on the panels \nof the base, bronze bas-reliefs of Seringapatam, by Kirke, Waterloo, by Farrell, \nand the passing of the Emancipation Act, by Hogan. From this point, as from \nothers, delightful views of the city and southern district of the county, extending \nto the Dublin Mountains, can be had. Among the striking objects of interest in \nview are Sarah \n\nBridge, a single - -: e, \n\nspan of 104 feet _-_%-_ _ - ^_ \n\nacross the Liffey, - " ~ 5\xc2\xab--- \n\nIsland Bridge Bar- \nracks, the Royal \nHospital of Kil- \nmainham, where old \nofficers and soldiers \nare maintained,* \nthe terminus of the \nGreat Southern \nand Western Rail- \nway. Within the park are the Zoological Gardens, the People\'s Garden, the \nHibernian School for maintaining and apprenticing the orphans of soldiers in \nIreland, and the residences of the Lord Lieutenant and Chief Secretary. The \npark is full of delightful scenes and groves almost in a state of nature. \n\nIf time will permit, the visitor to Dublin City should by all means devote a \nfew days to the suburbs, which afford a variety of charming scenes. Along the \nLiffey by Chapelizod, the Strawberry Beds, Woodlawn, to Lucan and Leixlip ; \nand along the Dodder by Donnybrook, Milltown, Templeogue \xe2\x80\x94 the residence of \nCharles Lever \xe2\x80\x94 Fir House, and Bohernabreena Bridge into the Dublin Moun- \ntains, the artistic tourist will find much to delight his perceptions, and solace an \n\n\n\n\nSkerry Islands. \n\n\n\n* This interesting edifice contains twenty-two full-length portraits confined to royalty and chief governors of Ireland \n\xe2\x80\x94 including Charles II., William III., Queens Mary and Anne ; James, Duke of Ormond, the Dukes of Dorset and \nDevonshire ; Earls of Ossory, Arran, Galway, Berkeley, and Rochester ; Sir Richard Cox, and others. \n\n\n\n38o \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nexpedition on foot or an " outside car." From Templeogue he can proceed \nto Tallaght, a venerable place of much antiquarian interest, and to the village \nof Clondalkin, where is a very fine specimen of an ancient round tower. Nor \nshould a visit be omitted to the modern round tower (p. 361), raised as a monu- \nment to O\'Connell in Glasnevin Cemetery, where also repose a number of those \nwho are honored as poets, artists, archeeologists, orators, and patriots, among \nthem Curran, Clarence Mangan, Hogan, O\'Donovan, O\'Curry, Dillon, Anne \nDevlin, the young patriot-poet Casey, McManus, and John O\'Mahony. \n\nFor the yachtsman who takes additional delight in having a sketch-book with \n\n\n\n\nDublin Bay^ from Dalkcy over Kingstown. \n\nhim, the coast from Skerries to Dalkey Island and Bray Head presents a great \nvariety of scenery, and perhaps no more satisfying view could remain on the \nmind\'s eye than that which fills the vision as, standing on the rocks of Dalkey \nHill, or by the obelisk on Killiney, it embraces the whole Bay of Dublin, the \nentrance to the city defined by the north wall, beyond it the neck of land con- \nnecting Howth with the historic shore of Clontarf, and beyond this again the \ncoast line fading northward to Portmarnock and Rush. A more beautiful \nobelisk than that at Killiney is in Newtown Park, adjacent to Kingstown, which \nwas built by Sir Pigot Piers in i 742, to relieve distress in the vicinity. \n\n\n\nMAYO \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCong\' jlbbey. \n\n\n\nThe County of Mayo\xe2\x80\x94 which is of immense extent, embracing 1,363,882 \nacres \xe2\x80\x94 presents a great variety of surface, from wild, bleak, and picturesquely \nrugged mountains to rich and loamy lowlands ; heath-covered swelling hills to \nwarm and fertile champaign prospects ; and strange conformations of rock- \n\n\n\n382 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nstrewn flats which extend for miles in the country bordering Loughs Mask and \nCarra, and are found, in some instances, to be deeply fissured. From Kilcum- \nmin Head, on the extreme north-east point of the county, to the Killeries on the \n\nsouth-west ; and from Erris, on the Atlan- \ntic, to Ballaghadereen, near its eastern \nborder, there are remarkable ranges and \ngroups of mountains. Traveling south \nfrom Kilcummin the land swells by degrees \ninto heath-crowned hills, the sides and val- \nleys of which are green and fertile. Grad- \nually these hills change their character into \nthe bleak and barren range of mountains \nwhich stretches in a continuous and some- \nwhat semicircular tract, tending southward, \nsixty miles long and seven miles broad, \nfrom Erris to the Ox Mountains in Sligo. \nWith the steep and grand Mount Nephin, \n2,646 feet high, in the center, the ranges \nextend westward to Achill and south to \nBallyhaunis, dividing the county into two \nparts. Another range in the north extends from Dunfeeny to Lough Carraw- \nmore, while the southern tract between the Galway border and Clew Bay is a \ncongeries of mountains, the most con- \nspicuous of which are Croagh Patrick, \n2,530 feet high, on the south of the \nbay, and the lofty Muilrea, 2,700 \nfeet high, on the north side of the Kil- \nleries. The bays and islands are \namong the largest and grandest, in a \npictorial sense, in Ireland. \n\nThe northern coast is peculiarly bold \nand wild, presenting almost along its \nwhole length a perpendicular wall of \nrocky cliffs, averaging four hundred \n\nr\xe2\x80\x9e ,. \xe2\x80\xa2 1 \xe2\x80\xa2 1 , \xe2\x80\xa2 J. 4.U Chancel Window, Cons; Abbey. \n\nleet m height, in some parts the sur- . .-, ^ \n\nface at top overhanging the sea. In many places the edge of the cliff is the \n\nhighest point of the land, so that the water which is shed from the surface within \n\n\n\nGateway, Cong Abbey \n\n\n\n\nMAYO. \n\n\n\n383 \n\n\n\ntwenty yards from the brow flows southerly away from the sea. Along this high, \nbold coast to the west, as far as the Stags of Broadhaven, are caverns extending \na great distance under the surface, and vaulted overhead with immense flag- \nstones. One of the most remarkable of these, nearly opposite the Stags, near \nDunkechan, extends several hundred yards under the land, is roofed with stone, \nand wide enough to admit several boats in calm weather to enter abreast. There \nare several lakes, some of considerable extent, in Mayo, such as Lough Conn, \nLough Mask, Lough Cullen, Lough Carra, and many others. A portion of \nLough Corrib \xe2\x80\x94 already noticed in the article on Galway \xe2\x80\x94 also belongs to this \ncounty. A narrow isthmus of high land \nseparates it from Lough Mask, the waters \nof which are thirty-six feet above the \nsummer level of Lough Corrib. Hence \nthe former pours the whole of its redun- \ndant waters into the latter through numer- \nous subterraneous caverns beneath the \ndividing isthmus ; and the water emerges \nfrom these caverns, which are the greatest \nnatural curiosities of the county, in numer- \nous fountains near the village of Cong, \nwhich, independently of these phenomena, \nis a place of high interest. There are, \nsays Wilde, three descriptions of caves in \nthis locality : natural, artificial, and mixed. \nThe first is magnificently represented by \nthe great chasm in the limestone rock, \nabout a mile to the west of Cong, and to the south-west of Aughalard Castle ; \nand which, from the number of pigeons and woodquests that used to flock into it, \nis popularly known as the Pigeon Hole. This has been alluded to more fully \n\n(p- 234)- \n\nCong is usually visited on the Lough Corrib route by the Connemara tourist, \nbut as it is not in Galway, we deferred noticing its historical interest until we \ntook up the County of Mayo. Its name is derived from cunga, a neck, indicat- \ning its situation upon the isthmus between the loughs alluded to. It is an \nisland, formed by a number of surrounding streams ; for, as Wilde says, there is \nwater everywhere: gliding by in the broad river ; gushing from the surrounding \nrocks ; boiling up in vast pools that supply several mills ; oozing through the \n\n\n\n\nTke Pigeon Hole. \n\n\n\n384 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ncrevices of stones ; rising in the interior of caverns ; appearing and disappearing \nwherever its wayward nature wills ; passing in and out everywhere except where \nman tried to turn it into the monster dry canal. The historical village occupies \na small hill, and is approached by four bridges. \n\nCong is of ancient interest. It does not appear from history or tradition \nthat St. Patrick visited Cong ; but it is said that St. Fechin of Fore was here, \nthe first abbot of an abbey founded by an Irish king, in a.d. 624. Cong was \noriginally a bishopric, one of the five sees of Connaught, regulated by synod in \n\nloio. Early in the twelfth century the \nfamous abbey of Cong was erected for \ncanons regular of the Augustinians ; in \nwhose keeping were placed the great \nfamily deeds and records of the west- \ncountry chieftains and proprietors. In \nthe reign of Elizabeth the property of \nthis abbey was granted to Trinity Col- \nlege, Dublin. " The Augustinian monks \nhave departed," says Wilde; "the bells \nhave tolled their last peal ; the altar \nlights are extinguished ; a few valuables, \nsnatched in haste, have been preserved, \nand Cong is a ruin, whence every sculp- \ntured stone that could be removed was \nbuilt into the hovels around \xe2\x80\x94 and which \nwas barely held together by the fostering \narms of the luxuriant ivy, until lately \ncleared of rubbish, and its muUioned \nwindows and decorated doorways care- \nfully restored " by the cultivated respect \nof Sir Benjamin L. Guinness. \nWe enter the abbey by a very beautiful doorway, and within we find it, 140 \nfeet long, entirely paved with tombstones ; facing us is the east window with \nits three narrow lights, and in each side wall of the chancel is a slender window \nlooking north and south. The chancel walls are perfect, but the northern wall of \nthe nave no longer exists. Under the chancel window the guides and village \npeople maintain that Roderick O\'Conor, the last monarch of Ireland, was buried, \nwhen, after fifteen years\' retirement within this abbey, he died in 1198. The \n\n\n\n\nThe Cross of Cong. \n\n\n\nMAYO. \n\n\n\n38s \n\n\n\nDonegal annals, however, distinctly state that " Ruodri Ua Concobair, King \nof Connaught and of all Ireland, both the Irish and English, died among the can- \nons at Cong, after exemplary penance, victorious over the world and the devil. His \nbody was conveyed to Clonmacnois, and interred on the north side of the altar." \n" Standing between the river and the abbey, the picture naturally rises before \nus of the aged monarch, broken down by the calamities which his country was \nsuffering from a foreign invasion which he was no longer able to resist \xe2\x80\x94 but \nstill more so by the opposition and ingratitude of his own children and relatives \n\xe2\x80\x94 passing up the river with his retinue, landing here in. 11 83, and received by \n\n\n\n\nTAe KillcrUs. Mayo. \n\nthe lord abbot and his canons and friars ; and then taking leave of his faithful \nadherents at the water\'s edge, being conducted to the abbey which it is said his \nmunificence had endowed. There as a recluse, untrammelled by the weight of \nstate affairs, and possibly unaffected by the quarrels of his chieftains and kins- \nfolk, the Last Monarch of Ireland, abdicating his authority, because the country \nno longer supported him, died."* The rocks, caverns, and dark-flowing streams \nof Cong, were, as Otway suggests, a fit place to sigh away a life which no longer \n\n\n\n* Wilde\'s Loiigk Corrib, which see, for many antiquarian notes of this locality. \n\n\n\n?S6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND \n\n\n\ncould serve his country. Though the Connaught abbeys suffered less than \nothers from the original suppressors, the " fond superstition " that turned the \ninteriors into places of sepulture, defaced and destroyed what the avarice of \nHenry\'s courtiers and the curse of Cromwell had spared. \n\nThe tomb pointed out as that of the king, is perhaps of his son, Maurice the \nCanon, "the most illustrious of the Irish for learning, psalm-singing and poetical \ncompositions," who died in 1224, and was interred here. Roderick\'s daughters, \nNuala and Finola, were interred at Cong ; and there are many tombs of chiefs, \nwarriors, and ecclesiastics, and especially of the \nabbots, down to James Lynch, whose tomb is dated \n1703 ; and even later, for the Rev Patrick \nPrendergast, a fine, white-haired, venerable person \n" a good specimen," says Wilde, " of the St \nOmer\'s priest," who was always styled \' The \nLord Abbot," died in 1829, at the age of 88 and \nwas entombed In the abbey. Several of the ec- \nclesiastical tomb-flags are decorated \nwith crosses, fleur-de-lis, chalices, \nand ornate croziers. Prendergast \nwas the last abbot, and had in a \nthree-cornered cupboard, in his little \nsitting-room, at Abbotstown, the \ncross of Cong, the shrine of St. \nPatrick\'s tooth, and the piece of \ndiscolored \nlinen said to \nhave been \n\ndipped in the ^\'^ ^h^ Mountains of Mayo. \n\nblood of Charles L when executed at Whitehall, and believed to possess the \npower of curing the king\'s evil. Hundreds came to be touched with it, and, as \nWilde, who as a boy knew the abbot, says, in all probability this was the latest \ninstance in which this rite was exercised in the British Isles. The Fiachal \nPhadrig is a shrine, of a horse-shoe or reticule shape, 1 1 li inches in length and 9 \ninches wide, constructed, it is said, to hold a tooth of St. Patrick, which the great \nMissionary, on a visitation to Northern Connaught, gave to Bishop Bronius when \nhe founded the church of Cassel-Irra. It Is highly decorated with raised figures \nand engraving, gold and silver filagree work, and with crystals, stones, and amber. \n\n\n\n^|r\'i \n\n\n\n\nMA YO. \n\n\n\n387 \n\n\n\nThe Cross of Cong, the gem of the Royal Irish Academy, where it now is, \naffords, as Dr. Petrie said, most striking evidence of the advanced position of Irish \nart and artificers previous to the arrival of the English. It was made by natives \nin Roscommon, about the year 11 23, in the reign of Turlough O\'Conor, father \n\'of Roderick. It is justly esteemed as undoubtedly one of the finest specimens of \nmetal work, enamel, niello, and jewelry of its age in the western world. It is \n30 inches high, and the arms 19 inches across. It consists of an oaken cross, \ncovered with plates of bronze and silver, heavily washed in many places with \ngold. In the front center, upon a raised boss, decorated with niello, there \nis a large polished crystal of quartz, in fact a double-convex lens, one surface \nbeingmuch more \nconvex than the -\'~^^ \n\nt h e r, u n d er "i- " ^ ^ " " \nwhich was origi- _ -^ ^ - " ~^ sr- s \nnally placed the ^^.^^^ \npiece of the True ^ \nCross sent by \n\nthe Pope to \nTurlough in \n\n1 I 2 3. This \ncentral crystal \ni s surrounded \nby a wonderfully \nbeautiful golden \nfilagree, and all \nthe rest of the \ncross, front and Approach to Delphi. \n\nback, is a mass of ornament of the intertwined pattern or strap work, with grotesque \nanimals, which is specially characteristic of Irish ornamentation in stone, metal, \nvellum, or vitreous composition ; and is richly gilt, in a manner not known, it is \nsaid, to modern art. Both the tracery and the inscribed edging, which is a silver \nband, are separated from the wooden frame by plates of copper or bronze. The \nfront is divided by silver insertions into no fewer than fifty panels ; and the bands \nand edges are decorated with forty-three studs or knobs of parti-colored enamel \nof various patterns, and which, being all of a deep shade, set off the crystal with \nstriking effect. On the silver side-bands are a series of Latin and Irish in- \nscriptions, in the Irish character, and the letters 2iX^ punched into the silver by \n\n\n\n\n388 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\ndyes or types, and so deeply, that Wilde says "the metal plates beneath are in- \ndented with almost equal sharpness, which enables us to read plainly even when \nthe external plate had been injured." The Latin inscription which is in duplicate \non both sides of the lower portion runs, Hac crtice crux tegihir qua passtis \nconditor orbis. " In this Cross is preserved (or covered) the Cross on which the \nFounder of the world suffered." The other inscriptions are in Irish, and respec- \ntively ask a prayer for the four persons concerned in its creation : Muireadach \nO\'Duffy, Archbishop of Connaught, for whose use it was intended ; King Turlough, \nat whose desire and expense it was executed ; Daniel O\'Duffy, the bishop who \nsuperintended its progress, and last, not least, Maclisa O\'Echan, the artist who exe- \ncuted it. " Of the last-mentioned," says Petrie, " and now most interesting of those \nfour men, no other record can be found ; no monument is left to tell of his former \ngreatness, save the exquisite work that has stood for more than seven hundred \nyears, bearing witness of the marvelous power and delicate skill of the artist." \n\nSir Bernard Burke, in his " Visitation" to the seats and arms of the nobility and \ngentry, speaking of Cong and the vicinity, says : " Whether you consider its un- \nbounded fertility, the varied beauties of its surface, or the historical events which \ninvest every plain and every mountain with an interest peculiarly its own, it \nstands forth to the lover of the wild and beautiful, to the antiquarian and the \ngeologist, as unsurpassed by any portion of the British Empire. And we do \nnot hesitate to insist that in this island, so favored, the ancient town and neigh- \nborhood of Cong are pre-eminent ; in each of the particulars above alluded to, this \nportion of the counties of Galway and Mayo is unrivaled in its peculiarities. It \npresents a varied surface of contradictory elements \xe2\x80\x94 streams of barrenness and \nfertility, exquisite beauty and wild desolation, green valleys and rocky plains, \nlakes and rivers and huge mountains, are so thrown together in wild confusion, \nthat it would almost seem as if nature had wandered here in one of her sportive \nmoods, producing on every side such a marvelous contrast and variety." In the \nloveliest part of the district, and reached easily from the abbey grounds, is Ash- \nford, the demesne of Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness, which, formerly in the posses- \nsion of Lord Oranmore, occupies one of the most striking and beautiful sites \nimaginable. Situated on the right bank of the river, which, flowing past the \nruins of Cong, is adorned in its short course with all that can constitute the in- \nteresting and the picturesque, the mansion was built about the beginning of \nthe eighteenth century, in the French chateau style, but not many years ago was \na dilapidated fabric with neglected surroundings. It presents now a very dif- \nferent aspect under the taste and wealth of the new proprietor; and the river, \n\n\n\nMAYO. \n\n\n\n389 \n\n\n\n\n\nOver Delphi Lodge. \n\nthe lake, the deep and solemn woods that environ it, the extreme fertility of the \ndemesne \xe2\x80\x94 encircled as it were by a framework of bare rocks and interminable \nwaters \xe2\x80\x94 constitute, as Sir Bernard Burke says, a species of oasis in the wild \n\n\n\n390 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\ndistrict, at once lovely, striking and peculiar. Within the demesne, and near a \nhandsome tower of recent construction, is a notable artificial cave of the Firbolg or \nTuatha de Danann period, called Lisheen-ard \xe2\x80\x94 " the small fort of the height." * \nIt is sunk within an ancient circular rath, now surrounded with aged hazels. \n\nThe neighborhood of Cong, on all sides, presents a great number of wayside \nmonuments, crosses, pillar-stones, and tumuli erected by funeral attendants, the \npeople of the district being evidently influenced in a special degree to honor the \nmemory of the dead, by the example given in the monumental cairns and stone \ncircles of two thousand years ago that abound in this vicinity. \n\nThe tourist can visit the chief points of interest in the County Mayo from \nCong by passing westward over the boundary line into Galway, and thence \nnorthwestward by Leenane to the Killeries, crossing which he will be in Mayo \nagain in the splendidly picturesque neighborhood of Delphi and Muilrea ; or by \nrailway or post road he can proceed directly northward from Leenane to West- \nport. If desirous of visiting the places of historical or antiquarian interest on \nthe eastern or interior side of the county, facilities are at his command\' which will \ntake him from Cong to Castlebar, and thence by Lough Cullin, over the pontoon \nbridge between this lake and the grander Lough Conn, and onward by way of \nFoxford to Ballina, to the beautifully situated ruins of Moyne Abbey, on the \nRiver Moy, and Killala. The same points on the east can be reached by tak- \ning the road from Castlebar, which leads under the brow of the great Mount \nNephin, on the west of Lough Conn to Crossmolina, whence the road eastward \ntakes us to Ballina. From Ballina the whole northern section may be traversed \nby carriage road, or directly across by rail through the mountains to Belmullet \nby Lough Carra on the left. What might be termed the middle section, border- \n\n* This cave measures 27 feet from the eastern entrance to its turn to the south, which latter portion is 24 feet long. \nThe average height is 6i feet, and it is roofed with immense flag-stones, supported on projecting corbels. ... By \nfancying a trench sunk in the ground 10 or 12 feet deep, and from 12 to 14 feet wide, and about 30 or 40 feet long, either \nin a straight line or turning at an angle midway, probably to avoid an obstruction \xe2\x80\x94 the sides lined with walls 2 feet \nthick, of moderate sized stones, put firmly together without cement and not in courses, and the roof formed of enormous \nflags, many of them eight and nine feet long, four or five wide or upwards, of a foot thick, laid on top \xe2\x80\x94 we have a good \ngeneral idea of a Mayo Firbolg or Tuatha de Danann Cave of two thousand years old. The flag-roofing is now about \ntwo feet under the sod. At the distant end the cave widens often into a large oval chamber, having sometimes a small \naperture, possibly for air or light, or to let out smoke. They were all entered by square apertures in the roof, as when- \never the cave is perfect the ends are built up. This trap-door may have been covered with a flag-stone in case of emer- \ngency. . . . Artificial caves abound all over the plain of Moytura, from Knockmagh to Benlevi. Probably they \nwere all originally within forts, and served as places of protection and security for women and children and the wounded \nand defenseless, or to stow away valuables in case of attack. They may, also, have been used as sleeping apartments \nor granaries, although at the time they were built the chief food of the Irish was animal. \xe2\x80\x94 See Wilde\'s Lough Corrib. \n\n\n\nMA YO. \n\n\n\n391 \n\n\n\ning on Clew Bay and the Atlantic, and embracing that beautiful line between \nmountain and sea from Newport to Achil Island, can be visited by rail from New- \nport to Mulrany, and by ferry over Achil Sound to the picturesque island. And \njust here we may quote Maxwell\'s suggestive glimpse of the various beauties of \nthe panorama that is revealed from any of the mountain heights in the neighbor- \nhood of Mulrany: "We stood upon the very pinnacle of the ridge, two thou- \nsand feet above the level of the sea ; Clew Bay, that magnificent sheet of water, \n\xe2\x96\xa0was extended at our feet, studded with its countless islands ; inland, the eye \nranged over a space of fifty miles ; and towns and villages beyond number were \n\n\n\n\nIMoyiic Abbey. \n\nSprinkled over a surface covered with grass, and corn, and heath, in beautiful al- \nternation. The sun was shining gloriously, and the variety of coloring presented \nby this expansive landscape was splendidly tinted by the vertical rays of light. \nThe yellow corn, the green pasturage, the russet heaths, were traceable to an in- \nfinite distance, while smaller objects were marked upon this natural panorama, \nand churches, towns, and mansions occasionally relieved the prospect. We \n\n\n\n392 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nturned from the interior to the west ; there the dark waters of the Atlantic ex- \ntended till the eye lost them in the horizon. Northward lay the Sligo Islands ; \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHead of the Killeries. \n\nand southward the Connemara \n\n\\^j \' Mountains, with the noble islands of \n\nI " " I ^- Turk and Boffin \xe2\x80\x94 nearer objects seem \n\nalmost beneath us ; Achil was below , \nClare Island stretched at our feet ; while our own cabin j^. \n\nlooked like a speck upon the canvas, distinguished only by \nits spiral wreath of smoke from the hillocks that encircled it. There was an \nindescribable loneliness around that gave powerful effect to all we saw. The \ndreariness of the waste we occupied was grand and imposing ; we were far \n\n\n\nMAYO. \n\n\n\n393 \n\n\n\nremoved from everything human ; we stood above the world, and could exclaim \nwith Byron, \' This, ^/n\'s is solitude.\' " * \n\nArriving at Leenane from Cong, we can take a boat, and, crossing the Kil- \nleries, visit Delphi and Lough Finn. The ferry is half a mile across, and the \nLodge is about two miles from the Mayo shore. The road to it is rendered \nattractive by the Bundoragh river, and the scene itself one of grandeur and \nbeauty. The shores of Lough Finn have been adorned by extensive planta- \ntions, formed by a late Marquis of Sligo. In the immediate neighborhood is \nDoo Lough, some two miles long, the scenery around which Is a combination \nof the grand and the wild, and altogether imposingly fine ; the mountains pre- \nsenting themselves in striking forms from every point of view, and rising from \n2,280 to 2,688 feet above the sea level. \n\nIn crossing the Killeries, the inmost extremity or head of that glorious fiord or \nestuary lies eastward, and beyond Leenane. Apparently closed up, like a lake, \nby mountains of irregularly grand and picturesque forms and outlines, the scene is \none which is only ^ \n\nenhanced in effect \nby the changes of \nlight and shade \nduring the day, \nor the exquisite \neffect of solemn \nsolitude produced \nby the moonlight, \n\nFrom the head \nof the Killeries, c/.\'w Bay. \n\nthe glen through which the Owen Erriff river runs, making some pretty cascades \nin its course, exhibits many charming scenes, and in striking rural contrast to the \nmagnificently wild aspect presented along the shores of the great estuary. In \naddition to the beauty of Glen Erriff, the stream is "good for anglers." The \ncharm of this route to Westport consists, chiefly in the first part of it, the Glen \nto Erriff bridge, and the last, on approaching and descending into Westport ; the \nintermediate portion being moorland, which, however, affords the sportsman \nplenty of hare and grouse. The points of view present a succession of as fine \nmountain scenes as are in Ireland \xe2\x80\x94 here dark and deep gorges ; there a bold, \n\n\n\n\n* IFi/d Sports of the West. \n\n\n\n394 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nbare bulwark of a hill, presenting his huge shoulder ; and now a long, deep, quiet \nglen, with its green sides covered with flocks, which add a peaceful, pastoral char- \nacter to the profound silence. A description of one peculiarly serene evening on \nthis route embodies the effect produced on all lovers of nature by the settino- \nof the sun in this region. The Slieve Partree range \xe2\x80\x94 and it is, as Otway says, \na noble chain of great and singular variety \xe2\x80\x94 were covered with light, flocculent \nclouds, that under the tintings of the declining sun seemed as intended for a \nclothing of wrought gold, a raiment of heaven\'s own panoply ; and so trans- \nparent was it, that every grey precipice, and every beetling quartzose rock smiled \n\nin its turn under the \nsunshine, as they were \nnow revealed, and again \nveiled, by the golden- \nfringed clouds that \nmoved so gently, s o \ngracefully up the hill- \nsides, and then passed \naway in splendid masses \neastward. \n\nWestport, a neat \nand clean-looking town, \nhaving a population of \nnearly 5,000, is situated \nin a narrow valley. A \nrippling mountain stream enters the town from the Marquis of Sligo\'s demesne, \nand runs through it ; and, as the two principal streets are parallel to it on either \nside, and are planted with trees, the effect is very pleasant. Before railroad \ncommunication, it was the port of the West, and the wharfs and warehouses, \nwhich are on a scale large enough for Dublin, now vacantly indicate the former \nimportance of the place. From the upper part are grand views of the moun- \ntains and Clew Bay ; and the ascent of Croagh Patrick, at the foot of which are \nthe ruins of Murrisk Abbey, four miles distant, must not be neglected. \n\nSeventeen miles from Westport \xe2\x80\x94 due west in the ocean, extending from the \nmiddle of the entrance to Clew Bay, in a south-westerly line, to opposite the lower \npoint of the Killeries \xe2\x80\x94 are the islands of Clare, Innisturk, Innisboffin, and Innis- \nshark. The former, which contains 3,959 acres, is, perhaps, the most beautiful on \nthe Irish coast. From the summit of Knockmore, 1,520 feet above the sea, the \n\n\n\n\nRuins of St. Caiman\'s. \n\n\n\nMAYO. \n\n\n\n395 \n\n\n\nview embraces a mountainous sweep, with only one break, of 190 degrees of the \nhorizon. Clare Island was the favorite residence of Grace O\'Malley (Grana \nUaile), whose exploits fill song and story. On Innisturk the signal tower is 629 \nfeet above sea level. The shores of Innisboffin (3,151 acres) are more varied \nthan those of the others, but its greatest elevation is 292 feet. Here Cromwell \nerected a castle to protect the fishery ; and here, also, are the remains of the \nancient church of St. Colman, a contemporary of Columbkille in the sixth century. \nClew Bay contains twenty-eight square miles, and with its hundreds of islets, \nvarying in size from a few acres to a mile in length, forms an archipelago of daz- \nzling beauty. There _.^ _^^ \nis nothing to which _ S, \nit can be compared, \nsays \xe2\x80\xa2 one of the \nguides to the West \nof Ireland, except \nthe Thousand Isl- \na n d s of the St. \nLawrence, where the \nwaters of Lake On- \ntario find their out- \nlet. The sail through \nthe Thousand Isles, \n\nas we well remem- Newport-Mayo. \n\nber, is one of quick-recurring inspirations of surprise, beauty, and delight ; but the \nmountains over Clew Bay give the latter an incalculable scenic advantage over \nthe St. Lawrence. By the shores of the bay, the islands are indistinguishable \nfrom the mainland. Leaving the shore, at every thirty or forty feet the waters \nof the bay are discovered gleaming around and marking the individuality, so to \nspeak, of island after island. A zest is given to the delighted curiosity, and the \ntourist girds up his loins to face the great mountain side, eager to obtain more \nscope of vision. Excelsior ! The achievement will repay the toil. The shoulder \nof the mountain, about half way up, is of easy ascent, and may not deter lovers of \nthe beautiful and grand among the gentler sex. To grapple with the Reek is \nmore difficult and toilsome, hands, as well as feet, being called into use in winning \nthe upward path. Although on every side the Reek has the appearance of termi- \nnating in a pinnacle that would hardly afford the climber foothold, yet, on attain- \ning the top, we find a flat of about half an acre. From the summit of the Reek, \n\n\n\n\n396 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nor even from its shoulder, the view is extraordinary \xe2\x80\x94 the magnificent culmination \n\nof the developing surprises whicli lead to it. \n\nThe Reek itself is of abiding interest, irrespective of the grand panorama \n\ndisplayed below and around it. Here St. Patrick sought solitude and prayed. \n\nHere he sounded his bell, and from the solemn altitude he blessed the land; and \n\nfrom it, too, as the legends have \nit, he hurled the venomous ser- \npents and reptiles down the deep \nabyss of Lug-na-Naimh.* \n\nThe little romantic town of \nNewport-Mayo, lies at the head \nof Clew Bay, nine miles north of \nWestport. From it a grand ex- \ncursion along the northern shore \nof the bay to Achill can be \n-^ *^ made, passing under the Maum \n\nBurrishoole Abbey. Thomas mountains, which attain \n\na height of 2,000 feet, and are cleft into deep ravines, like Glendahork, Glen- \n\nthomas, Glennamaddoo, and crossing \n\nthe narrow ridge of land that separ- \nates the bay from Black Sea harbor ; \n\nrising at the southern end to 1,000 \n\nfeet. The scenery along this route \n\nputs all the traveling scribes at their \n\nwit\'s end. It bafifles their resources. \n\nThere is so much of it that language \n\nbecomes exhausted. In natural gran- \ndeur and rude magnificence, Hall \n\nthought it unsurpassed, if approached, \n\nin Ireland ; and admits that on no \n\noccasion did he so completely feel his \n\n\n\n\n\nCm rig a Hoohy Castle \n\n\n\n* The reader may desire to know what a Lug is. There is no lofty mountain without one. It is a sublime precipice, \ngenerally found on the north-eastern side, and which goes plumb down many hundred feet, and generally at the bottom \nis a tarn, or lake, whose depth from the surface is, perhaps, as great as the height of the precipice above. Ben Nevis \nhas such a Lug, down-descending above fifteen hundred feet. The mountain of Lug-na-Quilla, the lord of the Wick- \nlow range, and second highest in Ireland, has, as its name denotes, a noble one \xe2\x80\x94 so has Mangerton \xe2\x80\x94 so has Keeper \xe2\x80\x94 \nand so has Galtee More, and perhaps the grandest and most picturesque Lug of Irish mountains is that of Nephin. \nThe fact alluded to, often struck us before reading Otway\'s notice of it (Tour in Connaught), and it might be illustrated \nby every traveler. Among the noticeable Lugs of other Irish mountains which come to mind, are of Kippure, which \nends in Lough Bray, and of the Commeragh over Coom-Shenawn. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nUli-i-CJiA, K,lJ-J-t;Jr{lii;S. \n\n\n\n398 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nutter inability to render justice to the wonderful works of nature. Nor is the \ndistrict wanting in antiquarian and historical interest. About a mile from the \ntown is Burrishoole Abbey, and further on, Carrig-a-Hooley Castle, both re- \nmarkable ruins. The abbey, which retains evidences of ancient splendor \xe2\x80\x94 \nsome of the mullions and capitals being curious specimens of art \xe2\x80\x94 stands on the \neast bank of the river of Burrishoole. Carrig-a-Hooley, one of the castles of \nGrace O\'Malley, was evidently built for strength \xe2\x80\x94 a stronghold in keeping with \nthe domineering activity and courage of its dauntless mistress. The remains \npresent a square keep of solid masonry, with the indications of a projecting barbi- \ncan at one corner. It stands upon a rock, at the extremity of an arm of the \nsea, and was evidently surrounded by a strong wall, a part of which remains, with \na small circular tower built into it. Beside it the water is deep enough to ride a \nvessel of considerable burden in concealment and shelter. Grana Uaile (Grace \nof the Isles) and her adventures are not only associated with this western region, \nbut have attained a sort of national renown, her name being among those alle- \ngorically used to characterize Hibernia. This, doubtless, arose from her reply \nto Queen Elizabeth, at whose invitation Grana visited the English Court, which \nshe astonished by her eccentricity, as well as by her self-possession and self- \nrespect. Upon leaving, Elizabeth offered to create her a countess. " I don\'t \nwant your titles," replied Grana; "are we not equal? If there be any good in \nthe thing, I may as well make you one, as you me : Queen of England, I want \nnothing from you \xe2\x80\x94 ^enough for me is it to be at the head of my nation." \n\nNear Burrishoole is an interesting glen, from which arises Bengorm, 1,912 \nfeet high, and Buckoogh, 1,935 feet, on Loughs Feeagh and Furnace. A road \nruns through it for some eight miles, and the scenery is displayed to great \nadvantage from the adjacent heights. As we proceed, the beauty and magnifi- \ncence of the scenery increase, and from the village of Bunowen, half way to \nAchill, a view is presented of almost inconceivable loveliness and grandeur. It \nis taken in at a glance. I n the extreme distance, across the bay, rises a line of \nmountains, of which the venerable and legend-haunted Croagh Patrick is the \nhighest, seen with its peaked top in the clouds ; midway is the island-dotted bay. \nWe stand above a terrific precipice ; the rocky strand beneath, although distant, \nseems so immediately under our feet that a stone thrown by a child might reach \nthe ocean. Pursuing our way the scenery becomes still wilder, the country \nthronging with lakes formed by innumerable streams rushing into the valleys from \nthe surrounding mountains. It truly is, as Hall says, impossible to convey to \nthose who appreciate the grace and beauty of " naked nature," an idea of the \n\n\n\n3fA YO. \n\n\n\n399 \n\n\n\nmany and powerful fascinations that meet the eye at every step. Not the least \nof the many attractions lies in the innumerable hues cast upon the landscape by \neither the rising, the midday, or the setting sun shining upon the rocks covered \nwith heath and wild flowers. The English artist, Mr. Fairholt, in a paper de- \nsigned to incite his professional fellow-countrymen to study Irish scenery, spe- \ncially speaks of the grandeur of this region, and its picturesque inhabitants, and \nalso dwells on the delight of the botanist amid a richness of beautiful plants, \namong them, " the heath only to be met with here and on the shore of the Med- \niterranean," and the " silvery bog-flax waving luxuriantly on the flats." The \nroad, over the elevated moorland tract of Corraun Achill, in whose wild \nrecesses some \nred deer yet sur- \nvive, brings us \nto the Sound, \nwhere the ferry \ntakes us to the \nIsland. Achill \nIsland, contain- \ning 36,037 acres, \nis chiefly com- \nposed of lofty \nmountains and \n\nintervening bogs. It is about twenty miles long, and has a population of nearly \n5,000. Heath, juniper, and coarse grass are abundant, but there is scarcely a tree ; \nand the inhabitants, who are principally engaged in fishing, dwell in houses made \nof uncemented round stones gathered on the beach. The gables are rounded, \nroofed with heath or fern ; and a village of them, numbering over forty, did not \npresent one chimney. There is here a Protestant mission, established in 1833. \nAmong the grand sights to be seen, and places visited, are Lake Nakeeroge, \nSlievemore, 2,204 f^^t, and the perpendicular cliffs of Minaun, three miles long \nand 900 feet high; of Keene, two miles long and 1,000 feet high, and the tre- \nmendous and terrific concave curve extending four miles from Saddle Head, the \nloftiest range of sea precipices in the British empire. At a point of 1,000 \nfeet they are nearly vertical ; at an elevation of 1,900 the angle of inclination to \nthe sea is 60, and the highest point is the summit of Slieve Croaghan, 2,192 \nfeet ; for, in fact, this elevation, which looks like " a gigantic hill fort," is a \npart of the face of the great precipice that overhangs the ocean. It is cut \nsheer down on the one side, like the Half Dome in the Yosemite Valley. \n\n\n\n\nA \\ lUaoe on 4chill \n\n\n\n400 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nRod s on 4c /nil \n\n\n\nLeaving these \nstupendous barriers \nto the Atlantic, and \nmaking our head- \nquarters at Castle- \nbar, where there is \na Round Tower, or \nBallina, we may \nvisit, according to \nthe suggestions al- \nready made (p. \n390), other points \nof attraction in the \ncounty. \n\nThe scenery on \n\nLoughs Conn and Cullin, with bold headlands, and long rocky ridges jutting out \non all sides into the water, making beau- \ntiful lines, with the mountains all around \nfor backgrounds, surmounted on the west \nby the great Nephin, one of the finest of \nIrish mountains (2,646 feet), gives the \nartistic eye continuously beautiful sur- \nprises. \n\nFrom Ballina many profitable excur- \nsions may be made : to the beautifully situ- \nated ruins of Rosserk Abbey, on the Moy ; \nto the splendid ruins of Moyne Abbey, a \nFranciscan foundation of the fifteenth cen- \ntury ; to Killala, where there is a Round \nTower, or by ready conveyance across the \nwild, but variously attractive moorland \nand mountain districts of Tyrawley and \nErris. \n\nFrom Downpatrick Head to Muilrea, \nguarding the Killeries, and from the wild \nrocks of Achill to the placid bosom of the Moy, wherever you go, the lover of \nnature cannot fail to be surprised and delighted with the scenery of Mayo. \n\n\n\n\nOn the iMoy. \n\n\n\n\nCopyright, 1878, by Tliomas Kelly, NeivYork. \n\n\n\n\nCoi\'yri^jlit IbSO hy Tliouiivs Kelly, Nuw York. \n\n\n\nRussell -k Strutbers, Engr\'s N^Y. \n\n\n\nCARLOW. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCarlov) and Surrotindi^ig Country. \n\nThe inland county of Carlow, one of the smallest subdivisions of Ireland, lies \nbetween the great granite district of Wicklow, and the coal formation of the \nQueens County and Kilkenny. It is about twenty-six miles in length from north \nto south, and some three miles less in width. Although it may be, in the minds \nof some, more interesting from the pleasing variety than the sublimity of its \nscenery, still the lover of the picturesque may not be disappointed if he rambles \nthrough the mountain chain, from Mount Leinster (2,610 feet high) to Black- \nstairs, which runs along the south-western line of the county, separating it by this \ngreat natural barrier from Wexford. The only passage into the latter is by \n\n401 \n\n\n\n402 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nScullao-h Gap, which was the scene of some memorable deeds in the \'98 strug- \ngle. Here the Wexford refugees, after the terrible slaughter at Vinegar Hill, \nled by the patriot priest. Father John Murphy, drove the royalist troop through \nthe pass, and pressed his way into Kilkenny, defeating the enemy at Gores- \nbridge and Castlecomer. And here also, on the return of his disheartened com- \nmand, after the disastrous surprisal in a fog on Kilcomney Hill, two brave men, \nJames Cody and Michael Lacy, under shelter of a rock, and by a bold and \nwell-directed fire, defended the pass against a body of cavalry, and enabled many \nof their comrades to make good their escape. \n\nThe general face of the county is undulating, especially where the rivers Bar- \nrow and Slaney form broad valleys of rural beauty, and great fertility. The \ncountry about Blackstairs, which takes the name from its rugged character and \nsombre appearance, is comparatively barren and of unattractive aspect. To the \n^^_ . west of the river Barrow, the \n\n" " mountainous range is beauti- \n\nfully fringed with wood, attrac- \ntively enhanced by cultivation. \nThis section is called the Ridge \nof Old Leighlin. While the \nX~ county is well watered, there \nis nothing in it which might be \ncalled a lake, although the old \nname Caihcr-lough, the castle \nof the lake, of which its present \ndesignation is an Anglicized \ncorruption, would indicate a derivation from the existence of such a feature. \n\nThe more ancient kings of Leinster had their royal residence at Diiirigh, \nthe fortress or mound of the kings, near Leighlin Bridge. Slainge Mac Deala, \none of the Firbolg kings, died there, and hence, it is said, it was called Dzmtha \nSlainge, or, the assemblies in commemoration of Slainge. In after times, the \nkings of Leinster had residences at Ferns and Old Ross in the county of Wex- \nford, and at Ballymoon in Carlow. The county formed the northern part of the \nancient principality of Hy-Kinselagh, embracing the territories of Hy-Cabanagh \nand Hy-Drone, and was one of the twelve counties into which King John divided \nall those parts of Ireland that acknowledged his government. Tradition has it \nthat it was after a conflict with O\'Ryan, lord of Hy-Drone, that Strongbow, \npassing through to the relief of Fitz Stephen in Wexford, slew his son for cle- \n\n\n\n\nThe " Mound of ilic Kings." \n\n\n\nCARLO IV. \n\n\n\n403 \n\n\n\nserting his post during the battle. The importance attached to this territory by \nthe invaders is evinced by the fact that within a few years the castles of Carlow, \nLeighlin, and Tullow were erected by Hugh de Lacy. \n\nThe town of Carlow is situated on the eastern bank of the " Goodlie Bar- \nrow." With one exception the principal towns of the county, Leighlin Bridge, \nBagnelstown, Borris, are seated on this river, which is navigable for forty-three \nmiles. The chief features of the town are, the Court House, a fine Protestant \nChurch, and the Catholic Cathedral, with the College adjoining. The Cathedral \nis a rather stately edifice with a tower, but the interior is very bare. It contains, \nhowever, a very noble monument to the famous Dr. James Doyle, bishop of \nKildare and Leighlin ( " J. K. L." ) in the act of protecting and pleading for Ire- \nland, which is represented by a female figure resting on one knee, her right hand \nsupporting her bent head, and her . __ ^-_ \n\nleft embracing the harp. It is one of \nthe finest of Hogan\'s works. Of it \nThackeray said, "The severe and \nhomely features of the good bishop \nwere not favorable subjects for Mr. \nHogan\'s chisel ; but a figure of pros- \ntrate weeping Ireland, kneeling by \nthe prelate\'s side, and for whom he \nis imploring protection, has much \nbeauty." The college is assured a \nmemory in history and literature. \nDoyle successively filled the chairs \nof rhetoric, humanity, and theology \nbefore he was raised to the episcopate ; and within its walls the spirit of song \noppressed Richard Dalton Williams into vehement utterance, and impelled him, \nwhile yet a student there, to send his earliest ballads to the Nation. \n\nThe remains of Carlow Castle, situated on an eminence of sufficient altitude \nto have given it watchful and protecting guardianship over the town, indicate \nthe original massiveness and strength of the edifice. It was in the usual Anglo- \nNorman style, a square area inclosed by strong walls, fortified at each corner \nwith a round tower. From the time of its erection, about 1180, to the year 1650 \nwhen it felt the effect of Ireton\'s cannon, this castle experienced many a reverse \nof fortune ; one time in the hands of the Irish, and the next in those of their \nenemies ; now affording protection to the besieged rebels, and again giving \n\n\n\n\nCarlow Castle \n\n\n\n404 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nthe English soldiers \'vantage ground to hurl from its battlemented walls, mis- \nsiles on the "Irish enemy" below; now proposed by the government to be \ngranted, with " its lands and appurtenances," to some young adventurers from \nEngland, to induce them to carry on an exterminating unholy crusade against \nthe Inhabitants of the neighboring districts ; and at another time given by the \nEnglish possessors of the soil to some " Irish military agent, who (in the exac- \ntion of their tributes) might employ the law of the land or the sword, as circum- \nstances would require." It withstood the ravages of war and time until 1814, \nwhen a physician \xe2\x80\x94 with a carelessness amounting to gross vandalism \xe2\x80\x94 desiring \n\nto utilize the \n-^ building for the \n\npurposes of a \nlunatic asylum, \nattempted to \nblast out some \nportion of the \nfoundation, and \ndestroyed more \nthan half of the \nbeautiful struc- \nture. One can- \nnot help wish- \ning, with Sir \nJohn Forbes, \nthat it had been \nbrought down \nliterally about \nThe road from Carlow to Leighlin Bridge is\' exceedingly beautiful ; \nnoble purple hills rising on either side, and the broad silver Barrow flowing \nthrough rich meadows of that " astonishing verdure, which," says Thackeray, " is \nonly to be seen in this country." On this route, four miles from Carlow, a very \nfine prospect is presented at Milford, where there is one of the most extensive \nand celebrated flour mills in Ireland. As the building is castellated, situated in \na lovely valley, watered by the river, and encompassed by woods and hills, with \nthe peak of Mount Leinster, and the mountains of Blackstairs and Brandon in \nthe background, the whole effect is one of cultivated significance and great pic- \nturesque beauty. \n\n\n\n\nMilford \xe2\x80\x94 Motint Leinsicr ajid Blackstairs in the distance. \n\n\n\nhis ears. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n\nQueens College, Cork. \n\nThe county of Cork, which is the largest in Ireland, comprises an area of \n2,885 square miles, or 1,846,333 acres, its greatest length, east and west, being \n\n405 \n\n\n\n4o6 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\niio miles, and its greatest breadth, running north and south, 70 miles. It cm- \nbraces more than half of the southern coast of Ireland, taking in the western \nshore of Youghal Harbor, and the eastern shore of the great estuary Kenmare \nRiver, as far up as Ardgroome, and is indented with several bays, such as Cork \nHarbor, Kinsale, Courtmacksherry, Clonakilty, Rosscarbery, Glandore, Balti- \nmore, Dunmanus, and Bantry. Cork presents a surface of very great variety, \nand innumerable scenes of splendor and beauty. In the western part the pre- \nvailing character is that of wildness, from its bold, rocky and mountainous confor- \nmation, the same as that of Kerry, which forms its entire western boundary. \nThe scenery on Bantry Bay with the adjacent mountain and lake glories of \nGlengariff and Gougane Barra, are quite famous in song and legend. The \nsouthern part presents stupendous masses of chistose rock to the Atlantic. The \nwildness of the west and the coast is balanced by the richness and fertility of the \nnorth and east. While Nature has bestowed an unequal surface on the county of \n\n\n\n\nCork Harbor. \n\nCork, she has preserved some order in her variety. The ranges of high and low \nland run nearly east and west, at least with sufficient regularity to indicate it as a \nleading feature. Thus in traveling for any distance from north to south we are \nperpetually crossing hills, while going from east to west, interruptions of this \nnature are less frequent, and might be easily overcome altogether. The longitu- \ndinal ranges are intersected by glens and gullies, through which the streams and \nrivulets, flowing, usually with rapidity, to the low lands, form many attractive \ncascades and waterfalls. \n\nAs in parts of Kerry, rivers often mark the limits of the limestone tracts which \nrun in the general direction of the mountain ranges, and are hardly ever found \nin elevated positions. The Blackwater, in its course for the greater part of the \nway from Millstreet to Fermoy, runs at the south side of the limestone. Be- \ntween Castlemore and Cork City, some eleven miles, the line of the limestone is \ndistinctly marked, first by the Bride, and after its junction with the Lee, by the \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n407 \n\n\n\nlatter river. During this space the limestone adheres to one side of the channel \nthroughout its windings without once crossing it. The most extensive tracts of \nlow grounds are those in which limestone is found. The largest lies north of the \nBlackwater, to the Ballyhoura Mountains, and is almost twenty miles long, and \nvaries in breadth from five to nine miles. This beautiful and rich extent, though \ncomparatively speaking a " flat country," is agreeably diversified with gentle \nswellings, and contains but little dead level land. \n\nThroughout the greater part of the county this undulating character of sur- \n\n\n\n\nCrosshaven. \n\n\n\nface is preserved. Even the mountains are little more singular in their outlines \nthan the lower grounds, and a striking similitude exists between both in their \nrespective vicinities. The Blackwater and Ballyhoura Mountains, enclosing the \ndistrict alluded to, exhibit along the line of their summits a gently varying \nprofile, while the rocky mountains of the south-west correspond, in their more \nabrupt and striking and bold conformations, with the ruggedness of the neigh- \nboring lands. \n\nCork is abundant in fresh waters as in an extensive coast. It has fine rivers, \nsprings and rivulets without number, and many lakes, chiefly in the mountains. \n\n\n\n4o8 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nFew rivers afford such a variety of rich and beautiful scenery as the Blackwater, \nwhich, rising on the confines of Kerry, forms the boundary between that county \nand Cork for some eight or ten miles, and from Millstreet runs east across the \ncounty into Waterford, where it beautifies Lismore and Cappoquin, and return- \ning into Cork, discharges itself into Youghal Harbor. With a range of lofty \nmountains on one side, and an extent of fair and fertile country on the other, \nwith the frequent advantage of stately plantations on both, the scenery exhibits \nhappy and most picturesque contrasts. The Lee, beloved of Corkonians, if inferior \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHaiUbowline and Spike Islands. \n\n\n\nin size, is claimed to be " superior in dignity," as it girdles the " beautiful citie." \nRising in the romantic Gougane Barra, encompassed by wild and bare mountains, \nit forces its devious and irregular passage through the hills and some beautiful \nlocalities, until it reaches the vale in which the City of Cork stands, from which \ndownwards it may challenge comparison with the most celebrated rivers of the \nempire, whether the winding variety of its river channel, or the diversified rich- \nness of its cultivated shores is considered. The Bandon, which rises in the Dun- \nmanway Mountains, and seeks the sea at Kinsale ; the Hen, which rises in the \nmountains above Drimoleague, meets the tide below Skibereen, and becomes \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n409 \n\n\n\n\n\n\nmerged In the estuary of the bay of Baltimore ; and the Awbeg, a tributary of \nthe Blackwater, are rivers of less extent, but are associated with scenes of his- \ntoric fame or scenic beauty. The Awbeg, the principal of a number of smaller \nstreams, is amongst the most famous in English song, being celebrated as \n" the Gentle Mulla," by Spenser, who wrote the Faerie Queene on its banks, \nand otherwise commemorated it in his lines in honor of Raleigh\'s visit to him, \nby "the Mulla\'s shore." The general rapidity of the streams offers great advan- \ntages for the effective use of water-power and the erection of mills, which have \nbeen largely embraced, adding the human interest of industry to the otherwise \nattractive banks. The small mountain lakes are not surpassed by any In the \nland, and chalybeate springs occur in various districts, the principal medicinal \nwaters being those of Mallow. \n\nThe seaward approach to Cork, or rather to the coast, on which Roche\'s \nPoint is, so to speak, the picket, and Forts Carlisle and Camden the sentinels, \non what Thomas Moore called " the noble \n\nsea avenue to Cork," is not, in the gen- ^s^^Wl ^^= \n\neral acceptation, especially attractive. It \npresents, however, that rugged, if not \ngloomy character, which is inseparable \nfrom the more picturesque forms of coast \nscenery. This effect helps to heighten \nthe interest of the views developed as we \nbreak through the natural gateway of the \ncoast. Passing Roche\'s Point, we sail for \ntwo miles between bold headlands, about \na mile apart, to the forts, and entering \nthe expanding waters of Cork harbor, \nrealize all that sense of delightful ap- \npreciation which a feeling of security \nadds to the enjoyment of physical beauty. \nFronting the entrance is the natural \n\nbreakwater of Spike Island. Cove, or Oueenstown, is two miles distant, and \nthe width of the harbor, exclusive of creeks and bays, is four miles, forming, \nit is said by English authorities, not only the most beautiful harbor in the \nUnited Kingdoms, but also the finest, most capacious, and most secure haven \nIn Europe. It is large enough to contain the whole navy of Great Britain. \nThe Importance of the harbor built up Cove during the great war with France. \n\n\n\n\nThe Depot on Rocky Island. \n\n\n\n4IO \n\n\n\nPICT LIRE SO UE I RE LA ND. \n\n\n\nIt was then made a naval station ; 6co vessels anchored at a time in its waters, \nand 400 have sailed out from its sheltering embrace under convoy in one day. \n\nAfter passing Fort Camden on the west, is the Creek of Crosshaven, which \npierces into the land for a considerable distance. When closely pursued by the \nSpanish fleet through the channel from the open sea, Sir Francis Drake suddenly \ndoubled into Crosshaven, and was so effectually hidden as to elude the anxious \nvigilance of his pursuers. It seemed impossible that he could elude, much less \nescape them. The Spaniards spent some days in vain efforts to discover his \nhiding-place or means of escape. To this day the place of his succor is known \nas Drake\'s Pool. \n\n\n\n\nFishing-boats off Haulbowline. \n\n\n\nThere are three islands in Cork harbor belonging to the crown : Spike, Haul- \nbowline, and Rocky. The latter, about two and a half acres, contains the powder \nmagazine, of six chambers, excavated in the solid rock. Opposite to it is Haul- \nbowline, twenty-eight acres, used as an ordnance depot, and containing a reser- \nvoir of 5,000 tons of fresh water. Around Haulbowline, to visit which there is \nno restriction, fishing-boats anchor awaiting favorable tide to put to sea. Spike, \nthe most conspicuous of the islands, contains 100 acres, has a fort, and is a con- \nvict depot, capable of accommodating 2,000 unfortunates. Here John Mitchel \nwas temporarily incarcerated until carried off to Bermuda, in 1848. Within this \nrueful enclosure a touching meeting occurred, to the simple and dramatic por- \ntrayal of which by Mitchel, in his Jail Jout^nal, nothing can be added. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n411 \n\n\n\n" There is a door in the high wall leading into another enclosure, and as I \n-was taking a turn through my territory to-day, the turnkey was near that door, \nand he said to me in a low voice, \' This way, sir, if you please ; \' he held the \ndoor open, I passed through, and immediately a tall, gentleman-like person, in \nblack but rather overworn clothes, came up to me and grasped both my hands, \nwith every demonstration of reverence. I knew his face, but could not at first \nremember who he was \xe2\x80\x94 he was Edward Walsh, author of Mo Craoibhin Cno, \nand other sweet songs, and of some very musical translations -from old Irish bal- \nlads. Tears stood in his eyes as he told me he had contrived to get an oppor- \n\n\n\n\nEasi Ferry. \n\n\n\ntunity of seeing and shaking hands with me before I should leave Ireland. I \nasked him what he was doing at Spike Island, and he told me he had accepted \nthe office of teacher to a school they keep here for small convicts \xe2\x80\x94 a very \nwretched office indeed, and to a shy, sensitive creature like Walsh, it must be \ndaily torture. He stooped down and kissed my hands. \'Ah!\' he said, \'you \nare now the man in all Ireland most to be envied.\' I answered that I thought \nthere might be room for difference of opinion about that ; and then, after \nanother kind word or two, being warned by my turnkey, I bade him farewell, \nand retreated into my own den." The commentary of the captive patriot on the \nposition of the patient poet is not less touching than characteristic. "Poor \n\n\n\n412 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nWalsh! He has a family of young children; he seems broken in health and \nspirit ; ruin has been on his traces for years, and I think has him in the wind at \nlast. There are more contented galley-slaves moiling at Spike than the school- \nmaster. Perhaps this man does really envy me ; and most assuredly I do not \nenvy him." \n\nThe fortifications on Spike were commenced in 1791, under the direc- \ntion of Colonel, afterwards General Vallancey. The English officer of engi- \nneers was a man of erudition, and, under the instruction of a stone-mason \n\nengaged on the work, became \n\n^^^vri:\'>\' -interested in the study of the \n\nJ^^^^^^ff=-._ Irish language, and so enthu- \n\ni --- -^- - siastic in the pursuit of the \n\n^- \' "^ - . path opened to him by its \n\n^^ philological and antiquarian \n\n_r - \' teachings, as to completely \n\nidentify himself and his re- \nsearches with the origin, ar- \nChceology, and antiquities of \nthe race. However visionary \nthe foundation of some of \nVallancey\'s theories, it cannot \nbe denied that his energy and \nresearch led to the develop- \nment of many important facts. \nThe famous " Cove " of \nCork, now called Queens- \ntown, to commemorate the visit of Queen Victoria, in 1849, is situated on the \nsouth side of Great Island, which forms the north side of the harbor. The \nisland is over five miles from east to west, and two from north to south. \nQueenstown, facing the south, and rising abruptly on the hillside to a height of \nover three hundred feet, presents a commanding and charming prospect, and \naffords a beautiful, and not too distant, background to the picturesqueness of \nthe harbor, its islands and shipping. Great Island is fertile and populous, \nand holds communication with the surrounding country by a bridge on the \nnorth side, and by ferries on the east and west. From the great salubrity of \nits position, and protection from northern winds, Queenstown is a favorite resort \nof invalids. As the mails from America are delivered here, and travellers who \n\n\n\n\n\n\nCove " \xe2\x80\x94 Queenstown. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n413 \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0object to the disagreeable experience of the Irish Channel generally land also, \nand passing too hastily from Killarney to Giant\'s Causeway, cross over to Scot- \nland, a brief but pleasant memory of Oueenstown and the views from its terraced \nstreets is retained ; but if tourists have a day to devote to its vicinity, many \nrelics might be visited, and interesting reminiscences refreshed. From the heights \nover the town magnificent views of the ocean, the harbor, its entrance, forts, and \nislands, and the surrounding country are obtained ; and when the atmosphere is \n\n\n\n\nLouirh Mahon. \n\n\n\nfavorable, and the shimmering waters still further enlivened by numerous vessels \nin full sail, the prospect, so full of life and light, and diversified combinations of \n-water, landscape, and sky, can scarcely be surpassed anywhere. The road across \nthe ridge of Great Island, from the east to the west ferry, is very steep ; but there \nis a low road along the shore, by the hamlet of Carrigaloe, by which those not \nover-enthusiastic in search of extensive views can be accommodated. From the \nruins of Templerobin, by the high road, are some fine views, and in the ceme- \ntery surrounding the ruins of Clonmel Church {Teamptd larJmr\'), a mile \n\n\n\n414 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nback over the heights from Oueenstown, are interred John Tobin, the author of \nThe Honeymoon, and the Rev. Charles Wolfe, author of the Burial of Sir JoJui^ \nMoore. This island is one of the earliest landmarks of ancient Irish history. \nIn the archaic period it was known as Arda Neimhid, the high place of Neme- \ndius, the leader from whom the second colonists \xe2\x80\x94 Nemedians \xe2\x80\x94 of Ireland are \nnamed. Having been vanquished by the Formorian colonists in the north, Ne- \nmedius and some three thousand of his followers were swept off by a plague on \nthis island. After the Anglo-Norman invasion it was held by the Hodnetts for \n150 years, until the Barrys and Roches slew Lord Philip \nHodnett, and all his adherents, in 1329. The Barrys \nthen got possession, and it was called Barrymore to a \nrecent date. The ancient castle of Barry\'s Court, in the \nvicinity on the mainland, a stately ruin forty years ago, \nhas been renovated, and is a striking object. From \nOueenstown, on the same day, the tourist can visit the \nancient cathedral town of Cloyne, which, in addition to \nits delightful scenery and a round tower, possesses that \never-abiding interest associated with great and beloved \ncharacters. It was founded in the sixth century by \nColman, a saintly scholar and poet, and gave the title \nof bishop in the eighteenth century to George Berkeley, \na scholar and metaphysician, who, as Pope said of him, \n" had every virtue under heaven." Here may be seen a \nhedge of myrtles planted by the hand of the Bishop, \neach root of which he nourished with his great specific, \ntar. The memory of Berkeley is enshrined in the literary \nhistory of America, his love for the diffusion of educa- \ntion having led him to these shores a century and a half ago, and his gener- \nosity in its behalf inciting him to present his farm at Newport to Yale College, \nand to make munificent gifts of books to both Yale and Harvard. His famous \npoem, concluding with the oft-quoted lines. \n\n\n\n\nRound To-djcr at Cloyne. \n\n\n\n" Westward the course of empire takes its way ; \nThe four first acts already past, \nA fifth shall close the drama with the day ; \nTime\'s noblest offspring is the last," \n\n\n\nwill be remembered, as prophetic of the prospect of planting not only arts \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n415 \n\n\n\nand learning-, but political empire in America, when many of his distinguished \ncontemporaries will be forgotten. Cloyne also receives honor from its Cath- \nolic bishop in Berkeley\'s time, who was Dr. O\'Brien, author of the noted \nIrish-English Dictionary. The Cathedral is an unpretentious, heavy, cruci- \nform old structure, containing monuments of the Fitzgeralds and Longfields, \nand of Bishops Woodward, Warburton, and Bennett, of the Anglican Church. \nReturning to Queenstown, there is a choice of three \n\nroutes to Cork, ^a^aS y^^^ ^^-- two by rail, and \n\n\n\n\nCloyne Cathedral. \n\n\n\nwaters of the river Lee ; the trip by water is much to be preferred to that \nof the other routes. \n\nThe sail up the river Lee, from Queenstown to the city of Cork, embraces \nsome of the most cultivated scenery in the south of Ireland; and, after a sea- \nvoyage especially, is sure to inspire the ecstatic admiration and compliments of \nthe tourist. A perpetual variety is presented along the whole course, and the \neye, "whilst lingering over some happy picture, is continually attracted by some \nnew succession possessing all the charms of the most romantic landscape." The \nland seems everywhere around you, and in its perpetual changes makes the river \nappear a series of lakes, from which, as Hall says, "there is no passage except \n\n\n\n4i6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nover one of the hills." The hill-sides, from water\'s edge to summit, are covered \nwith every variety of rich foliage, delightful plantation, and villa garden. An \nEastern traveller, who accompanied S. C. Hall on the river trip to Cork, ob- \nserved, "that a few minarets placed in its hanging gardens would realize the \nBosphorus." Arthur Young thought this neighborhood preferable in many re- \nspects to anything he \nhad seen in Ireland, and \none of the latest observ- \ners. Sir John Forbes, \nsays it would be difficult \nto overpraise the beauty \nof the Lee from Cork \nto Queenstown. "In. \ndeed," to use his own \nwords, " every element \nof beauty that can min- \ngle in such a scene \nseemed to be here com- \nprised ; we had a stream \never varying in its course \nand outline, of ample \nbreadth, yet not too \nbroad to prevent distinct \nrecognition of the ob- \njects on its banks ; wa- \nter of a color and pu- \nrity like the sea ; lofty \nbarriers on either side \ncovered with rich woods, \nand intermingled with \ngreen, park-like fields \nand shining villas ; here \nand there white villages \non level patches of shore ; \nand the whole animated, and, as it were, humanized by the peopled steamers \nsweeping up and down, the boats and yachts sailing or pulling about, and a ship or \ntwo at anchor (decked out in their national flags) in every bay that opened out \n\n\n\n\nThe Mathciu lower. \n\n\n\n\nSUNDAVS WEU-.\xe2\x80\x94 THE MATHE-W STATUE.-KOKTl 1 \nABOVE ^fORTH BRIDGE. \n\n\n\n-L., 1-HOM THE LEE \n\n\n\n4i8 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nupon us as we pursued our course." The same writer dwells with a high sense \nof appreciation on the moral and physical advantages presented by the excur- \nsions down the river, through the harbor, and out into the open sea, which are \nindulged in by the inhabitants of the city. "It is hardly possible," he adds, " to \nimagine a more delightful means of recreation, or one more wholesome or more \nrational, for the inmates of a crowded city, than this hebdomadal excursion on \nthe Sunday afternoon, after a week of labor and confinement in their airless \ncourts and shops. And happy are the Corkites that they can command so \nsweet and pure a luxury, amid scenes which are in themselves an exquisite \nluxury, for so small a sum as half a day\'s wages of a working man. I could not \nhelp wishing that our London had been so situated that her children of labor \n\nalso might have been able to \nadd the delight of an open sea \nto their river trips." Passing, \nor rather stopping at. Monks- \ntown, for it is a steamer land- \ning and a notable watering- \nplace, under the castle, the \nnext river station is at Pas- \nsage, where the tourist may, \ncontrary to our advice, take \nthe railway to Cork. The cas- \ntle of Monkstown recalls a story illustrative of both wifely affection, ambition, \nand economy, which may be briefly repeated. It was built in the reign of James \nI. by Anastatia, the wife of John Archdeacon, while the latter was serving under \nPhilip of Spain. Loving him well, she resolved to surprise her husband on his \nreturn, by presenting him with a stately castle. Not having means at her dis- \nposal, she carried out the project by practical economy, and the expedient of \nmonopolizing the sale of food and other necessaries to the workmen. Pur- \nchasing largely she had a large profit, and on adjusting accounts found that she \nwas only out of pocket just one groat \xe2\x80\x94 fourpence. Archdeacon enjoyed the re- \nsult of his busy wife\'s love and brain for a quarter of a century ; but it was lost \nby their successor\'s adherence to the cause of the Stuarts. In the general opin- \nion \xe2\x80\x94 from Windele to the latest " official guide " \xe2\x80\x94 Father Prout took a poetical \nlicense in describing Passage as " both large and spacious," and " nate and \ndacent." The Lee here expands into the sheet of water called Lough Mahon, \nwith Foaty Island on the right, and the picturesque towers of Blackrock Castle, \n\n\n\n\nFather Mathew\'s Temperance Medal. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n419 \n\n\n\nat the extremity of a rocky promontory, in the nearing distance. From any \npoint of view this castle is an effective feature. A castle or watch-tower was \nerected here by Lord Mountjoy, in the reign of James I., as a protection to the \nriver. The corporation of Cork repaired and improved it in 1722. It was \nsubsequently destroyed by fire ; when, over forty years ago, the present hand- \nsome structure was built after designs by Mr. Payne. The river front consists \nof a water-gate, supported by two embattled towers, beside which stands the \nchief tower, pierced with numerous windows, above which rises a light and lofty \nturret, terminated by a machicolated battlement, and two oblong masses below, in \nkeeping with the design. The turret contains a light for the guidance of the \nshipping ; and at .the water-gate the canopied barges of the mayor and corpora- \ntion land their jovial crews and attendants upon the first of August, when the \nmayor, as admiral of the harbor, casts a dart into the tide as an assertion of his \njurisdiction, and holds court in the castle. Blackrock \nis supposed to be the place from which William Penn \nembarked for America. Near the village is the con- \nvent of Ursulines, one of the most celebrated institu- \ntions of its kind in Ireland. Back of it, at some dis- \ntance is the village of Douglas, In the bosky grave- \nyard of which lie the remains of Richard A. Milll- \nkin, the wit and poet, whose song, " The Groves of \n\nBlarney," is known in every region. Near Blackrock Castle is the venerable \nivied ruin of Rhinn-Mahon, while the hill at the opposite side of the river is \ncrowned by a modern castellated edifice, built in honor of the mission and \nsuccess of Father Theobald Mathew. \n\nThe Mathew Tower, on the left bank of the Lee, was erected during the life- \ntime of the Apostle of Temperance, by Mr. O\'Connor, a wealthy citizen of Cork. \nIt happily adorns a beautiful position, and from its battlements and the surround- \ning walks, views of great variety and magnificence are obtained. Below the \ntower Is a statue of Father Mathew In the act of administering the temperance \npledge, and close by is\' a fountain, ever playing, and suggestively throwing out \nits crystal gems of beauty and health. The scenery all around, from Foaty Park \nto Foaty Island, seems in cultivated accord with the spirit of comfort which \nmight be indicated by the Mathew memorial. \n\nThe river banks, both on the Glanmire (north) and Blackrock (south) side, \nto the cit}\'-, are covered with villas. The Glanmire. side is especially rich In \nromantic and woody glens and hills. Approaching the city the river divides into \n\n\n\n\nThe Cork Arms. \n\n\n\n420 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ntwo branches at the custom-house, that building occupying the tongue of land \nwhich makes the division. We pursue the right, or north channel, and landing, \nfind ourselves almost immediately before Foley\'s noble statue of Father Mathew, \nfacing the elegant and commodious Patrick\'s Bridge, which spans the northern \nbranch of the Lee by three arches, and connects Bridge Street on the north with \nPatrick Street, one of the grand thoroughfares, on the south. \n\nThe city of Cork occupies the centre of a deep valley, of considerable ex- \ntent, which stretches from east to west, and is enclosed on every side by a rich \n\n\n\n\n\nPatricks Bridge and Camden Quay, from Merchant s Quay. \n\n\n\ngirdle of high hills. The river Lee divides itself above the city on the west, \nand meeting again, as indicated, at the custom-house, after a separation of two \nmiles, forms an island, on a portion of which the old city was built. Indeed, \nthere were several marshy islands, which by degrees have been reclaimed and \nabsorbed by the growth of the city. At the commencement of the seventeenth \ncentury the city consisted of one principal street, still remaining, the Main \nStreet, and the north and south extremities were guarded by castles, which com- \nmanded the approaches by drawbridges. Little seems to have been done in the \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n<" <^ ^ J %^ \xe2\x80\xa2 -^ V 4 l^t^ H mS \n\n\n\n\n\n#. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\'\' \xe2\x80\xa2;\'\xe2\x96\xa0\';? -\'i^H \n\n\n\nTHE MARDVKE, CORK. \n\n\n\n422 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nway of reclaiming the marshes until the reign of William III., when the corpora- \ntion began to form new streets and erect public buildings. In 1701 there were \nbut two entrances to the city, one on the north leading from Dublin, and one on \nthe south leading from Kinsale. \n\nThe protecting castles on Main Street, having fallen into a ruinous condition, \nwere replaced by prisons in the early part of the last century ; and Windele, \nwriting in 1839, says they stood until within a few years, and that the front of \nSouth-Gate Prison, overlooking the bridge, presented up to the time of its \nremoval, "a hideous row of the skulls of malefactors." The streets and thor- \noughfares of the old town were so narrow that two \npersons could not walk abreast, and one which could \nadmit a cart was distinguished by the name of \nBroad Lane. In old Bridewell Lane, a passage \nfour feet wide, stood the corn market, and in similar \nlanes were to be found the assembly rooms, as well \nas the fish market and post-office. In Dingle Lane \nstood the old theatre, upon whose boards Barry and \nMossop delighted their audiences. A navigable \nstream, now arched over, ran through Castle Street, \neast of Main. At the extremity of the street it \npassed the city walls, and this water entrance was \ndefended by the King\'s and Queen\'s Castles, whose \nposition at either side of the stream gave rise to the Cork arms. In the middle \nof the last century a navigable branch of the river ran down the South Mall ; \nthe south side, where the Bank of Ireland now stands, was an island, and beyond, \nto the modern Charlotte Quay, was a small tract called Goose Island. For \nyears subsequent vessels sailed up Patrick\'s Street at tide-water ; and a map of \n1766 shows that the fields then reached down to the northern branch, and that \nthe large district now in the city, east of the Dublin road, was under cultivation. \nThese water-courses, great and small, have been arched over, elegant and spa- \ncious streets have been formed above them, and the city has extended over the \nnorth and south branches of the river to a very considerable extent, through \nwhich districts fine streets have been laid out ; and the progress still goes on. \nSeveral handsome bridges connect the old and new portions of the city, principal \nof which, as to effect, are Patrick\'s, Anglesey, and Parliament, while the North \nand South, and Clarke\'s Bridges, conveniently facilitate communication between \nsome of the oldest and most populous districts. The rapid advancement of \n\n\n\n\nPortal of the Old Cathedral. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n423 \n\n\n\nCork is attributed to the matchless capabihties of its splendid harbor; and the \nrecent and continuous improvements give the city in general a pleasant, pictur- \nesque, bus3^ and cheerful appearance. \n\nIn the opinion of Marmion {Maritime Ports of Ireland^, Cork existed \nprevious to the Christian era. There is no doubt that a city of considerable \nimportance was then located between the Promontorium Austrimtm, now Mizen- \nHead, and the south-eastern part of the coast in the latitude of Cork. Its \nidentity with the present locality of Cork has been suggested. It was here \nthat the recorded expedition of the Irish monarch Crimthan was fitted out \nin the first century. This king made several \nsuccessful expeditions into Britain and Gaul, \nharassing those who were attached to the Ro- \nmans. He brought back " extraordinary and \ncostly treasures," among them " a golden chariot \nand a golden chess-board inlaid with three hun- \ndred transparent gems ; a tunic of various colors ; \na conquering sword, with a variety of serpents \nbeautifully wrought thereon in refined gold ; a \nshield embossed with pure silver ; a spear, from \nwhose wound no one could recover ; a sling that \nnever missed the mark ; two hounds leashed by \na silver chain, worth a hundred cumhals," etc.* \nIn addition to the spoils he brought \xe2\x80\x94 as O\'Hal- \nloran suggests \xe2\x80\x94 improved military knowledge, \n\nfrom conflicts with the Romans, and introduced a new and more perfect discipline \namong his own troops. \n\nIf Cork was not the city indicated, the Cork we know has a deeply inter- \nesting antiquity and history. Its origin was not \xe2\x80\x94 as has been set forth by \nsome writers of character \xe2\x80\x94 due to the Danes, but clearly to a more gentle \ninspiration. Saint Finn Bar, quitting the beautiful but wild solitudes of Gou- \ngane Barra, founded a cathedral on the site of an older temple, portions of \nwhich were standing at the commencement of the last century. He added to \nhis church a religious house and school, which attained so much celebrity that \n\n\n\n\nTomb tn the Cemetery. \n\n\n\n* Another version says, "which chain was worth a hundred cumhals. Cumhal (Clival or Cooat), \nis translated ancillis, i. e.,fej/ta!e servants or slaves, by Lynch. Other authorities say that a cumhal was \nof the value of four cows. \xe2\x80\x94 O\'Mahony\'s Keating. \n\n\n\n424 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nseven hundred students came to it " from all parts ; " and, says an ancient writer, \n" a desert as it were by quick degrees became a city." The growth of a hamlet \nor town was a natural consequence, and Saint Finn Bar, the first bishop of Cork, \ndyino- at Cloyne, in a.d. 617, had undoubtedly laid the unshakable foundations \nof the future city of Cork. \n\nAccording to the Annals of Innis fallen, Cork was "wasted" by the Z^^/J- \nlannabli (Scandinavians) in the years 822, 833, and 839. Brian Boru, leading an \narmy into Desmond in 969, took hostages from Lismore and Cork. After plun- \ndering the old city and its religious houses, at intervals, during two hundred \nyears, the Danes arrived with a fleet, and, in 1013 or 1020, as it is variously \nrecorded, burned the city, and effected a settlement. After some eighteen years \npossession they were routed with great slaughter, and all their property de- \nstroyed. In 1080 it is \nsaid Cork was damaged \nor destroyed by light- \nning, and eight years lat- \ner the Danes of Dublin, \nWaterford, and Wick- \nlow made a combina- \ntion to recover posses- \nsion, but were defeated \nby the natives of West \nCarbery. About the \nsame time, or in the \nfollowing year, Dermot, \nson of Torlogh O\'Brien, \nlaid waste and plundered the town, and sacrilegiously carried off the relics of \nSaint Finn Bar. At the time of the Anglo-Norman invasion, Cork was a walled \ntown, and was, with the adjacent country, in the hands of the Danes, who paid \ntribute to Dermot MacCarthy, prince of Desmond, of which extensive territory \nit was the capital. On the arrival of Henry II., MacCarthy paid homage and \ntribute, and surrendered his city of Cork, which was garrisoned by the invaders. \nSoon these had to evacuate it, and the prince of Desmond resumed occupation. \nIn 1 1 77 the English king bestowed the surrounding country on Miles de Cogan \nand Robert Fitz Stephen, and, five years later, Dermot MacCarthy, having re- \nnounced allegiance, laid siege to Cork, and reduced the garrison under Fitz \nStephen to such extremity, that only the arrival of Raymond le Gros from \n\n\n\n\nScene in the Cemetery. \n\n\n\n\nCATHEDRAL, AND INTERIOR. \n\n\n\n426 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nWaterford saved them. In 1185 MacCarthy laying siege to it again was slain, \nand for ten years it remained the only place in Munster possessed by the Anglo- \nNormans. In 1 195 the men of Desmond, under their prince, Donald Mac- \nCarthy, again besieged it, and totally defeated a large force sent to its relief ; but \ndissensions among the chieftains under him induced Donald to relinquish its \ncapture. He soon, however, reinvested and took it by assault. In a few years \nthe Anglo-Normans regained possession, and strengthened themselves by the \nerection of Shandon Castle. In 11 99 John de Spenser was provost, and is the \nfirst civic magistrate of Cork on record. For several centuries the records \n\nchiefly indicate the founding \nof a religious house, the ex- \ntension of the charter, the \nwalling of the city ; that \nstreets were paved, and \nbridges and quays construct- \ned in 1 3 19; that the mayor \nand sheriffs were, by the \nking\'s writ, directed in 1325 \nto detain ships, and arrest all \nsubjects of the king of France ; \nthat in 1359 members were \nsent to the Irish Parliament, \nand that Mortimer, Earl of \nMarch and Ulster, lord-lieu- \ntenant, died in the Dominican Friary in 1381. Perkin Warbeck, the impostor, \nvisited Cork in 1492 and 1495, and having received royal recognition, the mayor, \nJohn Walter, was beheaded at Tyburn by Henry VII., and the city for some \ntime deprived of its charter. During the reign of Elizabeth, protracted warfare \ndevastated the neighborhood. During this period, Hollinshed the chronicler \nalludes to Cork as "the fourth Citie of Ireland, happilie planted on the sea. \nTheir haven is a haven roiall. On the land side they are incumbred with evil \nneighbors \xe2\x80\x94 the Irish Outlaws, that they are fain to watch their gates hourlie, to \nkeep them shut at service-time, at meales, from sun to sun, nor sufTer anie \nstranger to enter the Citie with his weapon ; but the same to leave at a lodge \nappointed. They walke out at seasons for recreation, with power of men fur- \nnished. They trust not the countrie adjoining, but match in wedlocke among \nthemselves onlie, so that the whole Citie is welnieh linked one to the other in \n\n\n\n\nJames Barry\'s Birthplace. \n\n\n\nCORK. 427 \n\naffinitie." A few years later Camden described Cork as " being in the form of \nan &%g\'^, with the river flowing round about it, and runninge betweene," a "popu- \nlous little trading town," but " beset with rebel enemies." The population was \nof mixed origin, " though united and dovetailed by intermarrriage \xe2\x80\x94 partly \nIrish, but more of Scandinavian and Norman-English descent." Outside of the \nwalls the Barrys were at this time a powerful family, holding Shandon Castle ; \nwhilst of the Irish and " the more than Irish " outlaws who beset the city gates, \nthe MacCarthys of Muskerry, the O\'Mahonys of Kerricurrihy, the Fitzgeralds \nof Cloyne and Inchiquin, and the Barretts of Ballincollig, were foremost, and \never on the alert to foray on the trading burghers. In 1571 Queen Elizabeth \ngave a silver collar of SS. to Maurice Roche, the mayor, for his services against \nthe Earl of Desmond. Towards the close of her reign Elizabeth appointed Sir \nGeorge Carew Lord President of Munster, and he took up his quarters in Shan- \ndon Castle. On the death of the Queen, the mayor, supported by the corpora- \ntion and a large portion of the people, refused to proclaim her successor \nJames I. The citizens attacked Shandon Castle, and demolished the Queen\'s \nFort, but were forced to yield to the Lord Deputy Mountjoy, who marched \ninto the city with a large force. In 1609 a new charter was granted, under which \nDominick Roche was appointed mayor. In the war of the confederates, General \nBarry and Lord Muskerry (1642) were obliged to retreat from before its walls, \nbut in 1644 it fell into their hands. In 1648 the Marquis of Ormond, lord- \nlieutenant, came to Cork, with the view of uniting loyal Protestants and Catholics \nin behalf of the King, and was well received. The next year it was surprised \nby the parliamentary forces. Cromwell himself sojourned here a few days, in \n1650, and in reply to a remonstrance against casting the church bells into ord- \nnance, made a joke which survives, to wit : that as gunpowder was invented by a \npriest, he thought the best use for bells was to convert them into canons. The \nCatholic inhabitants were so severely oppressed during the protectorate, that sev- \neral leading families never recovered their previous position. T. Crofton Croker \nhas collected a list of the " Cromwellian" families of influence and station which \nsettled during this period. In 1667 William Penn, while managing his father\'s \nestates in the County Cork, was converted to the doctrines of the Quakers, by \nthe preaching of Thomas Loe in the city ; and having been arrested at one of \nthe meetings of the society, and declining to give bonds for " his good behavior," \nwas, with eighteen others, committed to prison. This was Penn\'s first persecu- \ntion for his opinions, and instead of weakening, strengthened those views which \nculminated in the most practical toleration the world has perhaps ever seen. \n\n\n\n428 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nIf Cork refused to proclaim James I., it was eleven days before London in \nannouncing the restoration of Charles II.; and, on the occasion, "the ancient \nnatives and inhabitants " petitioned for a restoration of their " estates and inter- \nests," as well as their former "corporate rights and privileges," not only as " inno- \ncent Papists," but as " deserving subjects," but with little effect. The Roches \nwere among the claimants, and under the Act of Settlement they were to be put \nin possession ; but the execution of this order was evaded, and many others \nsimilarly circumstanced were similarly treated. After James II. landed in Kin- \nsale, he proceeded to Cork, \nwhere he was well received, \nand, escorted by Franciscan \nfriars, in their habits, attend- \ned mass in the new chapel \nin the north abbey. This was \nof course followed by a demon- \nstration against the city by the \nforces of William III., com- \nmanded by the Earl, afterward \nDuke of Marlborough, and the \nDuke of Wurtemberg. After \nfive days\' resolute defence, the \ngovernor, Roger MacElligot, \nwas forced to yield. In the \nmeantime the revocation of \nthe edict of Nantes introduced \ninto the city a number of \nFrench Protestant families, whose descendants have become identified with its \nprogress. For a century after the Williamite war, the annals of Cork furnish lit- \ntle of general historical interest. Many local improvements, however, were made. \nA great part of the old walls were removed in 1 706 ; the wooden bridges were \nsuperseded by handsome works in stone in 1712 ; new jails were erected in 171 5 \nand 1728. In 1719 Mr. Edward Webber built the Mardyke, an elevated prom- \nenade a mile long, westward, shaded by rows of elms, which is still an ornamental \nfeature of the city; and in 1763 statutes were passed for the erecting of lamps, \nand securing the quays with walls or iron railings. In 1798 Lord Edward \nFitzgerald found succor for a time near Sunday\'s Well. A Cork constituency \nwas one of si.x represented by O\'Connell in Parliament during the Repeal agita- \n\n\n\n\nFrom the Road to Cork. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n429 \n\n\n\ntion. In the Young Ireland era, Meagher addressed the citizens on the occasion \n\nof forming a branch of the Irish Confederation, in September, 1847. After the \n\nFrench Revolution in 1848, a large meeting of citizens, on St. Patrick\'s Day, by \n\nresolution hailed "the hopes held out to all oppressed nationalities" by the \n\nFrench Republic. Meetings of citizens also approvingly addressed O\'Brien, \n\nMitchel, and Meagher, after their arrest by the gov- \n\n^ " ernment, and a dem- \n\n" ^, ^=sa^ onstration in their \n\n^ ^fe^ honor, in the form of \n\n_~ /" ^^^i^^s:y\xc2\xbbB^P~\\l=^ a procession \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nMacrooin Castle. \n\n\n\nof trades and guilds, with bands and banners, through the principal streets, was \nmade on the first of May, in 1848, which was addressed by Meagher. Cork and \n\n\n\n430 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nits neighborhood became still more actively identified with the Fenian move- \nment ; and the capture of Captain William Mackey (Lomasney) in Corn Market \nStreet, after a desperate armed struggle with overpowering numbers, adds an- \nother scene to the historical events of the city. The audacity of the Fenians at \nthe commencement of 1868, under this young Irish-American, in the vicinity of \nCork \xe2\x80\x94 at a time, too, when the Saturday Review was sadly admitting that the \narmy and navy were not as reliable as was supposed \xe2\x80\x94 was illustrated by a popu- \nlar poet (T. D. Sullivan) to the popular air of this locality. \n\n" John Bull in wonder, \nWith voice like thunder, \nDeclares such plunder \n\nHe must dislike ; \nThey next may rowl in, \nAnd sack Haulbowline, , \nOr, on a sudden, \n\nRun off with Spike. \nHis peace is vanished. \nHis joys are banished. \nAnd gay or happy \n\nNo more he\'ll be, \nUnless the Cork men. \nAnd wild New York men. \nAre sunk together \n\nBeneath the sea." \n\nStill more recently Cork gave expression to its national feeling by conferring \nthe freedom of the city on the late Isaac Butt, M.P., founder of the Home \nRule party, and by electing to Parliament Charles Stewart Parnell, the leader of \nthe Land League. \n\nHaving given this outline of its political history, a rapid survey of its topo- \ngraphical features, in company with the author of a Rtin Through tlic So7ith of \nIreland, and the sketcher of the Pictorial Guide, will enable us to view and \nappreciate the most noticeable thoroughfares, objects, buildings, and localities of \nthe " beautiful citie." \n\nThe principal street of Cork, named after Ireland\'s Patron Saint, is the most \nbustling one in the city, very irregularly built, but a fine, extensive, and pictur- \nesque one withal. In this street was placed, in 1865, Foley\'s beautiful statue of \nIreland\'s great Christian philanthropist, the illustrious Father Mathew, who, as \nis well-known, was a native of Cork. The most imposing demonstration ever \nperhaps witnessed in the city was the ceremony of " unveiling" the statue by the \nmayor, John Francis Maguire, M.P. At the end of Patrick Street, to the left, \n\n\n\nCORK. 431 \n\nis the Grand Parade ; and a handsome playing fountain, placed in the centre of \nthe street, adds to the effect of this fine thoroughfare. An equestrian statue at \nthe extreme end, forming the South Mall, is supposed to represent the second \nGeorge, but as a work of art it possesses no particular merit. The South Mall, \nrunning at right angles east of the Parade, is well built. It is chiefly occupied \nby leading merchants and professional men, and in it are situated the Bank of \nIreland, the Cork Library, the Imperial Hotel, the Commercial Buildings, the \nCounty Club-House, the News-Room, and other public offices and institutions. \nGreat George\'s Street, a straight, regularly built thoroughfare, branches to the \nright (west) from " the Parade," and at the upper end of it are the Court \nHouses, a fine pile of buildings, with an imposing Corinthian portico. From \nGreat George\'s Street, we pass to the Western Road ; to the left is the Convent \nof Mercy, built in the Elizabethan style, while a little farther off, in the same \ndirection, the new cathedral arrests the attention. \n\nA turning to the right from this point conducts to the Mardyke, a beautiful \navenue a mile in length, lined on either side with stately elms, which form a \nthick, umbrageous canopy overhead ; and but for the gas-lamps peeping from the \nboughs, as if to remind us of our close proximity to a populous city, one might, \nfrom the singing of birds, imagine himself miles in the country. The Mardyke, \nalthough still affording delightful shade and cool breeze in the warmest weather, \nhas yielded somewhat, in a fashionable sense, to the more varied and aristo- \ncratic resources of Glanmire. \n\nThe handsome building in the Tudor style, to the left, just over the south \nbranch of the river. Is the Queen\'s College, designed by Sir Thomas Deane ; and \nthe one adjoining it the county jail. To the right are the city jail, Blair\'s Castle, \nand the handsome villas of "peaceful Sunday\'s Well," with their hanging gar- \ndens descending to the water\'s edge. Now, near the end of the Mardyke, the \npinnacles of the lunatic asylum, peering above the trees, with the bridge in the \nforeground, present a fine subject for the pencil of the artist. Crossing the \nbridge, and returning by the north branch of the river to Cork, we get, from \ntime to time, some beautiful glimpses of the city as we approach It. Here, \nunder Blair\'s Castle, we catch sight of the handsome Gothic Church of St. Vin- \ncent de Paul, and a little further on, at Wise\'s Hill, we get a fine bird\'s-eye view \nof the city, with Blackrock Castle, Father Mathew\'s Tower, and the "pleasant \nwaters of the River Lee" wending their peaceful way to ocean. Leaving the \nNorth Gate Bridge to the right, and passing the Dominican Friary, on by Cam- \nden Quay, we approach Patrick\'s Bridge, one of the handsomest structures of \n\n\n\n432 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nits sort in tlie kingdom. This bridge was recently erected in place of an older \none, which was swept away by the force of the current some few years ago, \nwhen, owing to heavy rains, the Lee overflowed its banks, destroying much \nvaluable property. \n\nA once famous locality on the north side was, in its own vernacular, " de \n\ngroves of de pool ; " but \n\'-^y _ the black pool district is \n\ngroveless ; its long rows \nof elms and poplars have \nlong since disappeared ; \nits manufactures have \nceased ; its looms are si- \nlent, and its once numer- \nous and respectable in- \nhabitants are replaced by \na poor population. Yet \nthis forsaken suburb has \nan abiding interest, for in \nWater Lane is the hum- \nble house in which the \ngreat art-thinker and \npainter, James Barry, was \nborn. The sketch pre- \nsents a graphic idea of \nthe locality, and the \nshould-be famous house \nis indicated by two fe- \nmale figures at the door. \nThe old cathedral of \nSt. Finn - Barr suffered \nsuch injury in the siege \nof 1690, that it was re- \nplaced in 1735 by a plain oblong pile, which had little of interest save the pointed \ndoorway, recessed and richly moulded, and a few remains of the earlier structure. \nIt had no pretensions to cathedral grandeur, and was in time demolished to give \nplace to the present more picturesque and dignified edifice. The new cathedral, \nin addition to its beauty, as a substantial ornament and honor to the architectural \n\n\n\n\nShandon Steeple. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n433 \n\n\n\ni\'^ (fe \n\n\n\n\ntreasures of the city, is claimed also as " a splendid \nmonument of the success of the voluntary principle \nin the disestablished church." It has been erected \nunder the auspices of a most popular member of the \nAnglican episcopacy, Bishop Gregg, and it is the first \nnew cathedral erected by the Protestants of Ireland. \nThe general style, from the designs of Mr. Wm. Bur- \ngess, is the early French pointed, a transition from \nthe purely Norman, combining much of the masslve- \nness of the latter with the grace of the Gothic. A \nnear approach justifies the admiration excited by a \n\ndistant view, \nfor the essen- \ntial strength \nand solemni- \nty of the pile \n\n\n\n\nMyrtle Grove: Residence of Sir Walter Raleigh^ Yoiighal. \n\n\n\n434 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nare relieved by the abundance of external ornament. The characteristics of the \ninterior walls are reproduced almost exactly outside ; and owing to the extraor- \ndinary massiveness of its relative parts, and the large proportion of its area occu- \npied by piers, columns, etc., the accommodation is singularly small for the \napparent extent of the building. The ancient doorway of the old cathedral has \nbeen preserved, and forms the dean\'s entrance in the boundary wall. In the \nsouthwest corner of the cemetery there formerly stood a Round Tower, alluded \nto by the chroniclers, built, according to tradition, without cement. A French \ndescription of it in 1644 gave its height as more than one hundred feet, with the \n\nentrance several feet above the ground. \nIt was severely shaken by the cannon- \nading in 1690 ; but, according to English \ntravelers, in 1 748 some forty feet re- \nmained, which was subsequently taken \ndown. As a proof of the antiquity of \nthis hallowed spot, Mr. Windele, from \nwhom much of our information has been \ncollected and condensed, instances the \nfact* that in the litany of ^ngus Keli- \ndeus, written in the ninth century, that \nholy man invokes " the aid of the seven- \nteen bishops and seven hundred servants of God, whose remains lie at Cork, \nwith St. Barr and St. Nesan." \n\nThe church of St. Anne, Shandon, owes its fame to the resonant and touch- \ning lines of Father Prout, inspired by the association which childhood attaches \nto the long-remembered chimes of the parish steeple. It is a plain edifice, both \nwithin and without, and has been " happily likened to a pepper castor." It was \nbuilt in 1722, and the steeple constructed out of the hewn limestone from the \nFranciscan Abbey, where James II. went to mass; and red sandstone from the \nruins of Shandon Castle, which gave the name to the district {Shean-dun, old \nfort). The consequence is, that, owing to diversity in the building material, the \nsides of the tower do not harmonize in color, which has given rise to many jokes, \nnot the least suggestive of which is that of Father Arthur O\'Leary \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n" Party-colored, like the people, \n\nRed and white stands Shandon steeple." \n\n\n\n\nCtonikch at Castle Mary. \n\n\n\nHhtoiical and Jjescriptivc Notices of the City of Cork and its Vicinity, etc. By J. Windele: Cork, 1839. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n435 \n\n\n\nBeing on an eminence, the steeple is conspicuous from whatever side the trav- \neler approaches the city, and is especially so in the picture from the river. It is \nthe more noticeable, as there are few cities of the same prominence so destitute \nof steeples, spires and towers. The chime of bells in St. Anne\'s is inferior to \nthat of St. Finn-Barr\'s, but it would be difficult and ungracious to attempt to \nmake the world believe so after having throbbed \nto Prout\'s melodious memories of i\xe2\x80\x94 \n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x80\x94 I^si" -^7 \n\n\n\nOld Signal Tower at Yoiisihal. \n\n\n\n" the bells of Shandon \n\nThat sound so grand on \nThe pleasant waters \n\nOf the river Lee." \n\nQueen\'s College, picturesquely situated on an \neminence forty feet above the south branch of the \nriver, stands on the site of Gill Abbey, a founda- \ntion of the seventh century. The college was \nopened in October, 1849, ^.nd its functions are \ndischarged by a body of professors, whose schol- \narship, ability and zeal would do credit, as \nForbes says, "to any institution, however ancient \nor celebrated." It will not be deemed deprecia- \ntory of the majority of these learned men, to \n\nespecially mention the presidents \xe2\x80\x94 the late Sir Robert Kane and Dr. William \nKirby Sullivan, the eminent scientist, scholar and archaeologist, the value of \nwhose great but congenial labor in translating Ebel\'s Celtic Studies from the \nGerman, and in editing O\'Curry\'s lectures on The Manners and Customs of the \nA^iciejtt Irish, cannot be overestimated. \n\nOn the south side also is Father Mathew\'s Cemetery, formerly the Botanic \nGarden, which will repay a visit. Here may be seen a reclining angel in white \nmarble, by John Hoga^i, surmounting a sarcophagus of Portland stone. Return- \ning from the cemetery, one of the finest of Hogan\'s works. The Dead Christ, \nmay be seen at the South Chapel. The American visitor to the Cork Library \non the South Mall will note with especial pleasure an alcove, designated by \nthe name of a distinguished judicial dignitary of New York, in recognition of \nthe s^ift of valuable volumes made to the institution.* \n\n\n\n* Hon. Geo. Shea, Chief-Justice of the Marine Court of the City of New York, whose intention, it is understood, \nis to malie continuous contributions of representative American works to the "Shea Alcove." \n\n\n\n436 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nOn the trip to Cloyne from Olieenstown, if time permits, tlie visit should be \nextended by the way of the fine demesne of Castle Martyr and Killeagh to \nYoughal, at the mouth of the Blackwater. In the neighborhood of Cloyne, and \nbetween it and Rostellan Castle, one of the ancient seats of the Geraldines, is \nMr. Longfield\'s residence, and demesne Castle Mary, where there is an interest- \ning cromlech. The "altar stone" is fifteen feet long, eight feet wide, and from \n\nthree to four \nfeet in thick- \nness. Near the \ngreat altar is a \nsmaller one, of \ntriangular form. \nYoughal, a \nsea-port town of \nremote antiqui- \nty, having re- \nceived a charter \nof incorporation \nfrom King John, \nin 1209, is pleas- \nantly situated at the base of a long and steep wooded hill, on a harbor of the \nsame name, formed by the estuary of the Blackwater. \n\nThere is a good road along the edge of the cliff to the upper strand, which, \nbeing firm and level, and the surroundings attractive, indicates the site for a \nprosperous watering-place. Close to the harbor entrance stands a tower, which \ntradition states was a light-house. This is perhaps the object M. Boullaye le \nGouz alluded to in 1644, as " formerly part of a convent of nuns, of which there \nremains a tower called the Nunnery, upon which they used to light torches to \nenable vessels to come into harbor during the night." About the same time, \nAdmiral Sir William Penn mentions that the governor of Youghal notified him \nthat when he wanted to communicate with the squadron, " the signal should be \na fire on the top of the abbey tower, near the point on the west side of the har- \nbor." The Fitzgeralds founded Dominican and Franciscan establishments in the \nthirteenth century, and the Collegiate Church was founded by Thomas, Earl of \nDesmond, in 1464. Youghal was the head-quarters of Oliver Cromwell while in \nthe South ; and here he embarked for England, May 29, 1650. A strong- \nhold of the Desmonds, it was the scene of many sieges, conflicts, and burnings. \n\n\n\n\nRaleitrlt\'s House \xe2\x80\x94 Front Vii-w \n\n\n\n\nCOLLEGIATE CHURCH RUINS-VOUGHAL. \n\n\n\n438 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nNot a little of the interest attaching to Youghal arises from the connection of \nSir Walter Raleigh with the town. He arrived in Ireland a captain of a levy, to \nsupport the Lord Deputy Gray, of Wilton, against the Earl of Desmond, in \n1579; and within seven years the soldier of fortune had conveyed to him by \nthe crown 42,000 acres of Desmond\'s confiscated land, in Cork and Waterford. \n\nAt this period, and for some years after- \nward, Raleigh resided at Youghal. He \nwas mayor in 1586, in which year it is \nsupposed the first potatoes grown in \nthe British Empire were planted here \nby him. The honor of first production \nis disputed as lying between a piece of \nland adjacent to the signal tower and \nthe garden adjoining the house in \nwhich he lived. All reliable authori- \nties agree in crediting Raleigh with \nthe introduction of potatoes, the use- \nfulness of which as an article of food \nwas an accidental discovery. It was \nsupposed that the apple which grew \non the stalk was the fruit to be gathered. This not proving palatable, the ven- \nture was deemed a failure. Digging the ground to sow grain, the potatoes \xe2\x80\x94 \nlargely increased \xe2\x80\x94 were discovered ; and from this first crop the general use of \nthe potato was developed. At first they were a great rarity and luxury, and \nwere recommended by the herbalist, Gerard, to "cunning confectioners" and \n" sugar bakers," for the framing of " delicate conserves" and "restorative sweet- \nmeats," " no less toothsome, wholesome, and daintie, than of the flesh of \nquinces." They were " sopped in wine," and, for " the greater grace in eating," \nsome did "boil them with prunes." In Trothis and Crcssida, Shakspere \nspeaks of " Luxury with her potatoe finger." FalstafT cries, " Let the sky rain \npotatoes, and hail kissing comfits," and Ben Jonson, in one of his plays, refers to \nthe luxuries " larks, sparrows and potatoe pies ! " \n\nThe house in which Raleigh lived is still standing by the Collegiate Church, \nand is now known as Myrtle Grove, from the abundant growth of myrtles which \nalmost cover it. It is of the character of the plain English manors of the \nElizabethan period, and has undergone but little change. The walls are several \nfeet thick, and the whole of the interior is wainscotted with Irish oak. The \n\n\n\nRaleii^/fs Yew Arbor. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n439 \n\n\n\nL \n\n\n\npanels in the principal room are black as ebony, and there is an oaken chimney- \npiece, reaching from floor to ceiling, of grotesque figures and elaborate work- \nmanship. In the garden is a group of four yew-trees, planted, it is. said, by \nRaleigh ; and here the adventurer dreamed his dreams \xe2\x80\x94 which were to end on \na scaffold ; and here, too, he listened to Edmund Spenser, as the poet revealed \nto him the Faerie Queen, before other eyes \nor brains contemplated the vision of romance \nthat haunted him # \n\n" amongst the coolly shade \n\nOf the green alders by the MuUa\'s shore." \n\n\n\nDesmond\'s Collegiate Church was appar- \nently a magnificent structure, and one of the \ngreat educational establishments which flour- \nished in the middle ages. In style it was \nornamented Gothic, with a lofty tower on the \nnorthern side, and a nave, choir, and tran- \nsepts. The nave and aisles have been fitted \nup, "in contempt of all rules and style," as a \nparish church ; but a large portion is a ruin. \nThe church contains many curious and re- \nmarkable monuments, those of the Fitzger- \nalds, who founded it, and the Boyles, who \nbought the property from Raleigh, being \nmost conspicuous. In the south transept, a monument to " the great earl " of \nCork, built by himself, represents him recumbent, and in armor, a kneeling \nfemale figure on each side (his two wives), and underneath the figures of his \nnine children, with the dates of their respective births. A sepulchral niche in \nthe north wall, richly carved and adorned with trefoil, is quite artistic. It is \ninscribed, Hie Jacct Thomas Fleming. \n\nThe western outlet from Cork, whether by the northern or southern side of \nthe Lee, presents many attractive and imposing features. From the road on the \nnorth side, which leads to Macroom, the river is in view for a considerable part \nof the way, adding its charming companionship to the beautiful scenery through \nwhich we pass, between Carrigrohane Castle and the churches of Inniscarra. \nThe road approaches sufficiently to permit a visit to Castle Inch, Carrignamuck, \nand Carrigadroid castles, and winds into Macroom, through the romantic defile \nof Gleancoum, \n\n\n\n\nJ licit I/ioiiim tlL)inn^ \n\n\n\n440 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nKilcrea Friary. \n\n\n\nThe southern road from<lork commands for several miles the valley of the \nLee, and its varied scene^of continuous beauty. The hili-sides are covered \nwith villas, interspersed among groves and pastures of luxuriant verdure ; and \nthe panoramic features of the north side are seen to much advantage from them. \nCarrigrohane Castle overhangs a precipitous crag, rising almost perpendicularly \n\nover the river. To the west, on \na sudden bend of the river, is \na deep pool, overhung by lime- \nstone precipices \xe2\x80\x94 Poul-an-Iffrm \n\xe2\x80\x94 the Hell hole, formerly said \nto have been inhabited by a \nfearful m.onster, half-horse, half- \nfish, the guardian of enchanted \nabodes and treasures beneath. \nFrom this point a fine view of \nthe castle is obtained. Next on \nthis route is the village, and, far- \nther on, the Castle of Ballincol- \nlig, which is credited to the time \nof Edward III. It shared the fate of all the Munster castles, and was occupied \nand emptied by rival forces alternately. A mile beyond, the Lee, issuing from \na deep defile, and overshadowed by the heathy hill of Garvagh, receives on the \nsouth the sparkling Bride. Following this river past the Ovens, we are \nattracted by the bell-tower of the Franciscan Friary \xe2\x80\x94 or abbey, as it is popu- \nlarly called \xe2\x80\x94 of Kilcrea, above a clump of trees. In general, where an abbey \nlifts its head a village is not far distant. Here, however, there is a mere \nhamlet, from which an avenue of elms and ash leads to the Friary. A few fields \nfrom the Friary is the castle ; and both were built \xe2\x80\x94 the one for the protection \nof the other \xe2\x80\x94 by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry. According to Ware, a tomb ot \nthe founder in the middle of the choir of the Friary, no longer visible, \nrecorded that it was built in a.d. 1494. Both structures are situated on the \nrising bank of the river, and are highly interesting. The castle, the tower of \nwhich is seventy feet high, was inclosed by a moat ; and its bawn, a small \nfortified area of forty by fifty feet, was defended by curtain walls and two \nsquare vaulted towers, now in ruins. The Friary was divided into a convent \nand a church, the latter to the south of the former. The church is one hundred \nand fifty feet in length, and consists of nave, choir, and south transept. An \n\n\n\nCORK. 441 \n\narcade of three pointed arches, springing from short round columns of soUd \nmasonry, with plain heavy mouldings at capital and base, separates the nave from \na side aisle ; the third arch, opening into the transept, which is seventy feet long, \nand having, like the nave, an aisle at the west side, separated by two massive arches \nof similar character. The communication between the nave and choir is by the \nhomely arch under the belfry tower, as shown in the sketch. It was fenced in \nby low walls of stone and earth, and, nearer to the building, by a structure of \nhuman bones. This wall, of which the remains were recently visible, was forty \nfeet long, seven high, and six broad, \xe2\x80\x94 was formed of the bones of legs, arms, and \nvertebrae, the interstices being filled up with smaller bones. Collections of \nbones were not of infrequent occurrence in the ancient grave-yards of Munster. \nThe collection of those at Kilcrea \xe2\x80\x94 made as will be seen through kindly rever- \nence \xe2\x80\x94 was owing to the following circumstance : \n\nAbout ninety years ago, an aged woman of extremely weird aspect, and it is \nsaid of unsound mind, made her appearance in the vicinity of the abbey, and \nsoon appropriated, and took up her abode in, an unclaimed and untenanted vault. \nShe avoided intercourse with, and rarely spoke to, the people of the neighbor- \nhood. Yet this did not hinder them from occasionally supplying the recluse \nwith cooked potatoes and a little milk. She was often seen to drink of the \nBride that ripples by the ruin. Seldom visible in the day-time, when \ndarkness and silence reigned she emerged from her charnel-house, and spent \nmuch of the night collecting the bones of past generations that lay up and down \nand about the abbey ; and these she arranged in the order described. The \nskulls she reserved for the small Gothic windows of the chancel and choirs, plac- \ning the frontals toward the outer world ; and so compactly arranged were they, \nthat the contents of one window remained intact to about fifteen years ago, \nwhen it yielded to a storm. The only surviving tradition relating to the mys- \nterious creature is that she " came from the North " \xe2\x80\x94 a locality suspiciously \nassociated with much that is supernatural. Having dwelt in the tomb for two \nyears \xe2\x80\x94 having a vague reputation for sanctity, and won general respect, for she \nalways refused money, and scarcely ever went outside of the precincts of the \nruin \xe2\x80\x94 she suddenly disappeared one Christmas morning, and was never heard \nof again. \n\nThe church contains many graves, the tombs over the most ancient and histor- \nical of which \xe2\x80\x94 the MacCarthy\'s \xe2\x80\x94 are defaced, or have been carried away for use else- \nwhere. In the same vault with one of the last of their descendants was interred, \nat his own request, a person in no wise connected with that line \xe2\x80\x94 the notorious \n\n\n\n442 \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n\n\nRoger O\'Connor, an obstreperous combination of rebel, charlatan, fanatic, \nforayer, and subtle humbug. In the south-east angle of the nave is a low \naltar-tomb, with the inscription, \n\n" Lo ! Arthur Leary, generous, handsome, brave, \nSlain in his bloom, lies in this humble grave. \nDied May 4th, 1773, aged 26 years." \n\nO\'Leary, a Catholic, had been an officer in the Hungarian service, and, returning \nto Ireland, fell a victim to the atrocity of the penal laws in having a horse which \nwon a race. The loser, getting excited, claimed the winner for five pounds. \n" Papist, five pounds for your horse ! " which was the law. This led to a quar- \nrel and scuffie, from \nwhich O\'Leary found \n"~""^ ^ _ it needful to escape. \n\nHe was declared out- \nlawed on the spot, was \nhunted down and shot. \nTwo months after, the \ninstigator of the out- \nrage, a Mr. Morris, \n^ was fired at in his \nlodgings by O\'Leary\'s \nyounger brother, and \nreceived wounds from \nwhich he died. Young \nO\'Leary fled, it is said, to America. \n\nResuming the road which crosses the Bride at the Ovens, we reach Carrig-a- \ndroid Castle, as the southern road, in turning toward Macroom, approaches the \nLee. The castle, which was conspicuous in the Cromwellian wars, is built on a \nrock in the river, and is in a commanding position. It is said to have been erected \nby a MacCarthy to please a certain " Lady O\'Carroll," who desired a residence \nin this wild and beautiful spot. That some love affair was at its foundation is \nlikely, as tradition attributes its origin to the love of a lame and deformed peas- \nant for his chieftain\'s daughter. Wandering by the river-side, hopeless and in \ndespair, he saw and captured a leprecaun,* who not only revealed to him great \n\n* The fairy shoemaker, who has the secret of untold treasures, which are at the command of the person who keeps \nMs eye on the elf until they are revealed. The leprecaun, however, is such an adept in whimsical cunning and chi- \ncanery, that he, it may be said, invariably succeeds in diverting the vision of his captor, and thus releasing himself. \n\n\n\nLarriii-a-JJroid Castle. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n443 \n\n\n\nriches, but changed his deformity to manly grace. The noble maid was wooed \nand won, and the castle built to hold the lovely treasure. It was a strong fortress \nin 1 641. The Catholic bishop of Ross had garrisoned it for Charles I. Brog- \nhill captured the bishop, and offered a free pardon if he procured the surrender \nof the castle. With this hope they brought him to the walls, when, instead ofj \nadvising the Irish to yield, he boldly adjured them to hold out while one stonej \nlay upon another. Then, turning to his astounded guard, he yielded to fate, and \nwas immediately hanged. But, alas! the garrison that stood out under its lion- \nhearted friend was circumvented into surrender by a weak invention of the \nenemy \xe2\x80\x94 nothing more or less than a display of wooden cannon. \n\nFrom this either road may be taken to Macroom, and in each case we cross \nthe river Lee on the east or west of the Sullane river. Macroom is situated \n\nin a beautifully varied coun- . _ \n\ntry, adorned by the extensive _ \n\nplantations of the Castle de- \'^\xe2\x80\x94 \n\nmesne, and the neighboring \n\nvillas, and enlivened and re- ? \n\nfreshed by the various streams \'^;^\xe2\x80\x9e^ \nflowing down the mountains \nlying to the west and north, \nthe scenery on the latter being \nparticularly bold and roman- " " ~ ^ ~ ^ "~ "\' \n\ntic. The town rests on the ^\'\'\'\'\'\'^\' ^^\'\'*\'"\'- \n\nbanks of the Sullane, which rises ten miles westward in the Derrynasagart \nMountains, and, after being swollen into considerable volume by the rills and \nstreams from hills and glens, joins the Lee a mile and a half below. The town \ndates its origin to the eariiest Anglo-Norman period when a castle was built to \nguard the ford over the river, and the pass leading to the remote parts of Cork \nand Kerry. The outworks having disappeared, the castle adjoining the town (see \np. 429) now consists of the keep, a huge mass densely covered with ivy which \npresents a striking appearance. In the troubles of 1641 it was burned : and in \nthe Williamite war it was occupied alternately by the Jacobites and the followers \nof " Dutch Will." Since that time it has continued habitable, a fate, as Windele \nsays, shared by few similar piles in the south of Ireland. In Macroom Castle, \naccording to tradition, was born the famous Admiral, William Penn, in whose \nhonor Pennsylvania was named when the Charter was conferred by Charies II. \non his son the illustrious Quaker Colonizer. Although the town is doubtless \n\n\n\nr - \n\n\n\n444 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nShtp pool Castle \n\n\n\ncoeval with the Castle, the name of the place Macroom (^MagJi-crom), the plain \nof Crom, the supreme idol of the ancient Irish, indicates its pre-Christian origin. \n\nWhen the bards survived the fall of \n^ " - \xe2\x80\x94 Druidism, Macroom was for ages their \n\n_ headquarters in West Munster, and \n\nthe bardic conventions were held here, \nwhich it is claimed had a very bene- \nficial effect over the adjacent country. \nAs previously stated, up to the eight- \neenth century, there were but two \nroads to the Capital of Munster ; the \n=^ \' "" southern one, communicating with the \nold and historical town and harbor \nof Kinsale. The leisurely tourist can \nreach this point by turning southward \nfrom Kilcrea, or directly from Cork, \nby Ballinhassig. It is about eighteen miles from the city, and the route from the \nlatter to the \'sea lies through an undulating and hilly country, which seems, \nhowever, of little interest in contrast with the view presented on reaching the hill \noverlooking the town. Situated on and around the base and steep sides of Com- \npass Hill, which forms the left bank \nof the Bandon river as it debouches \ninto the harbor, the inland approach \nto Kinsale down the winding de- \nclivities presents the town, its beau- \ntiful environs, and the bay, to the \nbest advantage. Here was once the \nmost celebrated of southern har- \nbors ; but the proximity of Oueens- \ntbwn has thrown it into compar- \native obscurity. It is a place \nof great antiquity and historical \n\ninterest, its name being derived from Ceann Saile \xe2\x80\x94 the head of the brine ; and \nits earliest charter from Edward III. The town is steep and quaint, many streets \nbeing quite inaccessible to vehicles. The harbor, two miles long, with an aver- \nage breadth of half a mile, is safe. Guarded by a bold rocky entrance, the \nshores decline inwardly, and though tame in character are not devoid of culti- \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCORK. 445 \n\nvated beauty. Lord Kinsale, a title held by the De Courcey\'s who built a \ncastle here soon after the Anglo-Norman occupation, is the premier baron of \nIreland, and has the right of wearing his hat in the royal presence. Among the \nleading historical events were the landing of the Spaniards, under Don John de \nAquila in 1601, and the subsequent disaster to the Irish and Spanish allies \xe2\x80\x94 in \n\n\n\n\nU I L f ij f aid tr; iJjUii \n\nwhich the English victors by siege and sickness lost 6,000 men ; the expulsion of \nthe Irish in 1641 ; the arrival of a fleet under Prince Rupert and Prince Maurice in \n1649 \xe2\x80\x94 whose intentions were blocked by the parliamentary admirals Blake and \nDean; the surrender of the town to Cromwell; and the landing of James II. \nand the French under Count Lauzun, in March, 1689. \n\n\n\n446 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nFollowing up the river Bandon, which does not retain the woody surroundings \nto the extent celebrated in Spenser\'s verse, we find the ruins of Carrignacass \nand Ship-pool castles \xe2\x80\x94 the former built by the MacCarthys, and the latter by \nthe Roches. Two miles further, amid a rich and beautiful country, and on the \nbanks of the clear and navigable river, is Innishannon, formerly a walled town \nof importance. Pursuing our course, we find, near the confluence of the Brinny \nwith the Bandon, the ruins of Downdaniel Castle. The town of Bandon, or \nBandori-bridge as it was called, derived disgraceful notoriety from the generally \ncredited belief that the corporation \xe2\x80\x94 in illustration of its bigoted founder\'s claim \nfor royal favor on the ground that no " popish recusant or unconforming novelist" \nwas admitted to live in it \xe2\x80\x94 had carved over the principal gate the inscription \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n" Jew, Turk, or Atheist \nMay enter here, \nBut not a Papist." * \n\nA succeeding generation erased this idiotic boast ; but still the population were \nin accord with the anti-religious views of the "great earl," who on other subjects \nwas enterprising and tolerant. Smith, the historian of Cork, writing about the \nyear T750, says, there was not in Bandon a "popish inhabitant, nor would the \ntownsmen suffer one to dwell in it, nor a piper to play in the place, tliat being \nthe music used formerly by the Irish in their wars." It was claimed that this was \nnot " spleen," but a necessary means for the support of the " colony," composed of \n"strangers" and "Protestants." Fifty years after, however, the enterprise or \nusefulness of the " papists" appears to have placed them in a majority,f and in \n1 86 1 there were two Catholic churches and a convent within the terrible pre- \ncincts. Bandon boasts of having been the birthplace of two variously distinguished \npersons : Sir Richard Cox, Baronet, a very able, but Anglo-Irish, Irishman, who \nwas Lord High Chancellor, and three times " one of the Lords Justices Gen- \neral and General Governor of this Kingdom " \xe2\x80\x94 in other words, Viceroy ; and \nDr. Nicholas Brady, author of Sermons, and a translation of the iEneid, but better \nknown as the colleague of Nahum Tate in the English version of the Psalms. \n\nThe scenery throughout the district is of a most charming character \xe2\x80\x94 the \nbanks of the river, in their various abrupt turnings, forming striking escarpments^ \n\n* Dean Swift, it is said, added underneath \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n" Whoever wrote this, wrote it well, \nThe same is written on the gates of Hell." \nf Newenham\'s View of Ireland says, in the year 1S07 Bandon contained 511 houses inhabited by Protestants,, \nand 2,305 inhabited by Catholics. \n\n\n\n\n\n\nJif^^ \' \n\n\n\n\n^J^^\' \n\n\n^^f^^K \n\n\nt^ll^ -*- ^;^^S?^- \n\n\n^ \n\n\n-,"^,To\xc2\xbb^^^i \n\n\n_, - \n\n\n\n\nt\'^" \n\n\n\n- rf^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\'Vv^ \n\n\n\n\nBL.ARNEY CASTLE. \n\n\n\n450 \xe2\x96\xa0 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nThe castle was built by Cormac MacCarthy, the Strong {Laidii-), fourth Lord \nMuskerry, in a.d. 1449. It stands in the midst of a fertile vale, on a limestone \nrock, at whose base flows the Comaun stream, which forms a junction with the \nAw-Marteen near the village. The importance of the castle may be estimated by \nthe strength of its walls, which are eighteen feet thick. In 1643 Lord Broghill \ntook and held it for some time. After the Restoration Lord Muskerry was \ncreated Earl Clancarty, and his estates were restored to him. His son Donagh \nfought for James II., and Blarney sustained a formal siege against the army of \nWilliam ; but a commanding battery on elevated ground compelled its evacua- \ntion. Then commenced its demolition. The conquerors destroyed the fortifica- \ntions and mansions and other buildings, which covered a space whose interior \narea contained eight acres. Little was left intact save the walls of the large \ntower, which rises about one hundred and twenty feet, and is by courtesy called \nBlarney Castle. With the fall of King James, Clancarty\'s estates were again con- \nfiscated, and their lord exiled. Blarney Castle and grounds then came Into the \npossession of Dean Davies, of Cork, from whom they were purchased by the \nHoUow-sword-blade Company of London. Chief-Justice Pyne held it for a \nshort time, but in 1703 Sir James Jeffreys obtained the lands by purchase. \n\nThe castle, or donjon keep of the ancient aggregation of structures, is a prom- \ninent feature from all sides in the scenery of the district. Attached to it is the \nwell-wooded demesne, comprising a mirror-like lake and the " sweet Rock-close." \nBut neither the stream, nor the lake, nor the castle, nor the village, picturesque \nas Cork men deem them, has earned such notoriety for " the groves" as a certain \nstone on the pinnacle of the tower. This stone is of world-wide repute, for, as \nFather Prout says, " it is endowed with the property of communicating to the \nhappy tongue that comes in contact with its polished surface the gift of gentle, \ninsinuating speech, with soft talk in all its ramifications, whether employed in \nvows and promises light as air, such as lead captive the female heart, or elaborate \nmystification of a grosser grain, such as may do for the House of Commons \xe2\x80\x94 \nall summed up and characterized by the mysterious term Blaj^ney" This defini- \ntion of " Blarney," given in Prout\'s Plea for Pilgrimages, was called forth by the \nvisit of Sir Walter Scott in 1825. Having crossed the hills from Killarney, Scott \ngave a couple of days to the scenery of the Lee and the hospitalities of Cork, \nwhere honors similar to those offered in Dublin awaited him. Nor did he forget \nBlarney, in whose shades his party, including Maria Edgeworth and J. Gibson \nLockhart, had a right mirthful picnic. The latter tells us that " Sir Walter \nscrambled up to the top of the castle, and kissed, with due faith and devotion. \n\n\n\nCORK. 451 \n\nthe famous Blarney Stone, one salute of which is said to emancipate the pilgrim \nfrom all future visitations of mauvaise honie." \n\nThe southern and eastern sides of the tower are surmounted by machicolated \nparapets, resting on fourteen corbels, and having a corresponding number of \nopens or crenelles above. A number of small vaulted chambers, closets, and \ndormitories occupy the north side from base to summit, and communicate with a \nvery steep, narrow, spiral stairway. The highest apartment in this range was \nthe kitchen, in the very attic. Two of its sides are occupied by stone fireplaces \nof sufficient dimensions each to roast a whole ox. On the top the wall is broad \nenough to afford a good foot-path ; and that part of it where the famous stone \nmay be seen or kissed, is held in its place by strong bars of iron. The outer \nwall of the turret extending beyond the sides mentioned, you can look down \nthrough the spaces between the supporting stones, and the sight on a windy day, \nwhen the ruins seem to quake under you, is by no means inspiring. The Blar- \nney stone is clasped to the outer parapet by the irons referred to ; and, in order \nto reach it, you must lean out through the open space, between two and three \nfeet in width. It is quite impossible to touch it with your lips without the \nassistance of a second party, who vigorously holds on to you in the rear to pre- \nvent you from diving out through the chasm beneath. \n\nA recent tourist briefly but suggestively indicates the dangers attending the \naccomplishment of the feat deemed so useful in the fields of gallantry and orato- \nrical politics. The ascent to the parapet, as well as the kissing, needs care, cour- \nage, and caution ; and the words of the tourist are not in this case to be taken for \n"blarney," as he failed to win the power to use it. " I climbed, and climbed, and \nclimbed," he says. " Three or four times on the way to the turrets I might have \ndropped down from the doorless passages that open into the interior. There \nis not a door left in it from the foundation to the top. I was alone ; the wind \nwhistled about my ears ; all the grass and fern tufts that have sprouted among \nthe decaying mortar hissed spitefully. I cautiously crept to the edge of the wall, \nand while the sides of the old castle seemed to sway to and fro, I reached out to \nthe parapet and touched the stone with my finger tips. This is as near as I ever \ngot to it, but I have had enough. There is a stone down stairs on the ground \nfloor which is far more convenient, and is usually substituted for the original. \nFor more than four hundred years this castle has been the sole feature of im- \nportance in a very cheerless though lovely landscape. The square tower, with \nits machicolated battlement \xe2\x80\x94 all that is left of the castle \xe2\x80\x94 has been visited by \npilgrims from every clime." \n\n\n\n452 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nAt the base of the tower, on the northern side, are situated the prisons \xe2\x80\x94 two \no-loomy holes, the inner one so pitch-dark and ill-ventilated that it must have \nbeen a horrible place of punishment. A little to the west of the donjon is the \n" Cave," a low, dark subterranean passage \xe2\x80\x94 " where no daylight enters, but cats \nand badgers are forever bred." In the immediate vicinity of the castle is situated \nthe " Rock-close." This is an enclosed space of a few acres of ground, very \ntastefully laid out. Masses of rocks covered with lichens and heath-blossoms \nare skillfully arranged, so as to appear as if they were the natural productions \nof the soil. Shady retreats and arbors are so disposed as to command charming \nprospects of the surrounding objects. \n\nA flight of steps, roofed in by massive stones, lead down to a verdant " inch," \nor island, laved by the waters of the Comaun. This is known as the " Witch\'s \nStairs," adjoining which is the " Witch\'s Kitchen," a fireplace cut out of the \nrock. On the inch stands a cromlech of immense size, luxuriantly mossed \nand lichened. This primitive altar "attests that the Druidical worshipers of Baal \ncelebrated their ancient rites in Blarney at least a thousand years before the \nfoundations of the castle were laid." \n\nAbout midway in the well-wooded park the lake spreads its glassy sheet of \nwater. It is about half a mile in circumference, and is of considerable depth. \nThe view over the lake, with the massive donjon looming over the woodlands at \nthe distant side, especially of a calm evening, is of a very poetical character. A \nlegend records that on fine summer nights a number of enchanted cows rise from \nthe lake and pasture on its banks. While feeding they are milked by fairies. \nAs happens usually with beings pertaining to the elf-world who visit our sphere, \nthe cattle and milkmaids vanish at cock-crow. Tradition also asserts that the \nlast scion of the Clancartys buried the family plate in the lake, and that the part \nof it in which the treasure is hidden is never to be divulged until one of the race \nregains the ancient inheritance. \n\nA mile distant from Blarney is the noted hydropathic establishment founded \nsome forty years ago by the late Dr. Barter, at St. Ann\'s, which is w^orthy of a \nvisit. \n\nIn the northern part of the county. Mallow and Fermoy are prominent \ntowns, both situated on the glorious Blackwater. Between them, and on the left \nbank of the river, are the extensive ruins of Bridgetown, a foundation of the \nRoches of the twelfth century. On the right side of the river, about five miles \nfrom Mallow, is Monanimy Castle, which possesses an interest to which allusion \nwill be made further on. Mallow is directly north of Blarney, on the Great \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n455 \n\n\n\n\'whose tomb survives in the ruins of the abbey. The Irish name of the place \nAvas Killnemullagh, which has been recorded by Spenser in Colin Cloufs Come \n\nHome Againe : \n\n" MuUa, the daughter of old Mole, so hight \n\nThe niniph, which of that water course has charge \nThat, springing out of Mole, doth run downe right \n\nTo Buttevant, where, spreading forth at large, \nIt giveth name unto that auncient cittie. \nWhich KilnemuUah cleped is of old; \nWhose ragged ruines breed great ruth and pittie \nTo travailers which it from far behold." \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 In the heart of a beautiful country, pleasantly situated on the Av^rbeg\xe2\x80\x94 the \n" Mulla " of Spenser \xe2\x80\x94 is the small town of \nDoneraile, which, with Buttevant, forms on \nthe map the base of a triangle, of which \nKilcolman, about two miles distant from \neither, is the apex. Kilcolman must ever \nremain a classic spot, for not only was it \nfor years the residence of one of the great- \nest of poets in the English tongue, but \nhere was mainly composed the poem upon \nAvhich rests his fame \xe2\x80\x94 T/ie Faerie Qtteene ; \nand in that poem and others the scenery \nof the surrounding country, the mountains, \nvales, and streams are woven into the pictu- \nresque allegories of his theme. In Book IV., Canto XI., of the former, celebrat- \ning the wedding of the Thames and Medway, an allegorical account of the birth \nof the Suir, Nore, and Barrow is given ; and the principal rivers are indicated by \nan epithet or line, which, from its poetical scope, as well as local truth, has not \nbeen surpassed or supplanted to this day. For instance, the " sandy Slane " \n(Slaney), the "pleasant Boyne," the "fishy fruitful Bann," the "swift Awniduff " \n(Blackwater), the " spacious Shannon, spreading like a sea," the " gentle Suir," \nthe " goodly Barrow " ; \n\n" There also was the wide embayed Mayre (Kenmare) ; \nThe pleasant Bandon, crowned with many a wood ; \nThe spreading Lee, that, like an island fayre, \nEncloseth Corke with his divided flood." \n\n\n\n\nTomb of De Barry. \n\n\n\nSpenser went to Ireland as Secretary to the Lord Deputy, Lord Grey of \n\n\n\n456 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nWilton, in 1580. In Marcli following he obtained the, perhaps additional, office- \nof a clerkship in the Irish Court of Chancery ; and in the same year, from the \nQueen, the grant of a lease of the abbey, castle, and manor of Enniscorthj\', in \nWexford, which he conveyed, December 9th, 1581, to Richard Synot. Lord \nGrey was recalled in 1582; but Spenser remained in Ireland and retained his. \n\n\n\n\nMallow Castle. \n\noffice in the Court of Chancery until June, 1588, when he was appointed Clerk \nof the Council of Munster. He received a grant of Kilcolman and other lands, \namounting to 3,028 acres of Desmond\'s confiscated estates ; and was married \nin Cork, in 1594, to an Irish girl named Elizabeth, of whose family and station \nwe know nothing ; but of whose personal charms we have devoted descriptions,* \nas of the " inward beauty " of her spirit, where dwelt \xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x96\xa0 \n\n\n\n* See. The Faerie Queene, Book VI., Canto X. : the sonnets entitled ..//\xc2\xabore///, and the Jlarriage Song Epitha~ \nlaniion. \n\n\n\n\nKH-COLMAN CASTLE. \n\n\n\n458 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n" Sweet Love, and constant Chastity, \n\nUnspotted Fayth and comely womanhood, \nRegard of Honor, and Mild Modesty." \n\nAt Kilcolman, which stood in a most pleasant and romantic situation on the \nbanks of a fine lake, Spenser received his friend Raleigh, and the gifted " under- \ntakers " of English colonization on Irish soil that did not belong to them, con- \ngratulated each other on a future of fortune. Raleigh found his in the vindic- \ntive meanness of his sovereign, which sent him to the scaffold. Spenser\'s worldly- \nsuccess was equally short lived. One of the plunderers who profited by the \nspoil of the Geraldine, and whose sweet poetry has earned for him a fame for \n_ _ gentleness his political writings scarcely merit, \n\n_ he has, in terse and picturesque language, \n\nchronicled the horrors which made his for- \ntune.\'\'" He was a victim of similar retaliatory \nhorrors. He was the advocate of unsparing \nforce against the Irish. When the success of \nHugh O\'Neil, in Ulster, inspired the Munster \nchiefs to confederate in 1598, he was the victim \nof it at their hands. Kilcolman was sacked \nand burned. Spenser and his wife barely es- \ncaped, while an infant son perished in the \nflames. He fled to England, and survived his \nmisfortunes, in indigence, but three months. \nThe political adventurer was hunted from Kil- \ncolman : the poet found a resting-place in Westminster Abbey. He left four \nchildren, the eldest of whom, Sylvanus, married a daughter of Nagle, of \nMonanimy, who, on her mother\'s side, represented the Roches of Ballyhooly. \nBoth the Nagles and Roches were Roman Catholic families, and this connection \nhad an important influence on the fate of the Spensers. The mother of Ed- \nmund Burke, Miss Nagle, of Castletown-Roche, was grandniece to Sylvanus \nSpenser\'s wife, and it is suggested that perhaps " the great orator derived his \nChristian name in this way from the great poet." f Although born in Dublin, \nBurke\'s early boyhood is associated with Castletown-Roche, not far distant \nfrom Monanimy ; here the Latin grammar was first placed in his hands by \n\n* T. MacNevin. Confiscation of Ulster, etc. , Chap. IV. \n\nf See Craik\'s Spenser and his Poetry. A comprehensive and impartial estimate of Spenser may be found in the \nPoetical Works, edited and annotated by Francis S. Child. 5 vols. Boston. \n\n\n\n\nThe Pass of Keim-an-eigh. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n459 \n\n\n\n\nthe village schoolmaster, O\'Halloran, who lived to boast of his illustrious \npupil. \n\nThe tourist through Cork has generally in view a visit to the lakes of Kil- \nlarney, and he can turn westward from Cork City by way of Macroom, from \nBlarney, or from Mallow. On either route he will reach Mill Street, roman- \ntically situated at the head of the glen, between the Boghra and Caherbarna \nMountains. \n\nFrom Macroom the \xe2\x80\x94 --s. \n\nromantic lake of Gou- \n\ngane Barra, the wild ^ -^ji_ \n\nPass of Keim-an-eigh, \nand the surrounding \nscenery, may be explor- \ned. To do so the trav- \neler must diverge south- \nward to the village of \nInchageela. At a mile \ndistance, Lake AUua, an \nenlargement of the Lee, \nabout three miles in \nlength, is reached ; after \nwinding about the in- \ntricate northern margin \nof which we come with \nsudden effect on Gou- \ngane Barra. It occu- \npies a deep circular dell in the Sheehy Mountains, environed almost by perpen- \ndicular bleached cliffs, behind which the peaks rise to a height of fourteen hun- \ndred feet, and cast a perpetual gloom and spirit of loneliness over the scene. \nStanding within this amphitheatre of hills, the beholder feels severed from the \nworld, realizing somewhat the idea of the old historian, that "if a person were \ncarried into it blindfolded, it would seem almost impossible, without the wings \nof an eagle, to get out." The wild gloom of the locality, however, is relieved \nby one object of inviting beauty \xe2\x80\x94 the green little island, with its graceful ash \ntrees and old church ruins. The mountains sparkle with streams \xe2\x80\x94 elfin wander- \ners in summer, and foaming cascades in winter \xe2\x80\x94 recalling the inspiration of the \npoet Callanan : \n\n\n\n\n\n\nGous\'ane Barra. \n\n\n\n460 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\' There is a green island in lone Gougane Barra, \nWhere AUua of songs rushes forth like an arrow ; \nIn deep-valley \'d Desmond, a thousand wild fountains \nCome down to that lake, from their home in the mountains. \n\n\n\n\' And its zone of dark hills\xe2\x80\x94 oh ! to see them all bright\'ning, \nWhen the tempest flings out its red banner of lightning, \nAnd the waters come down \'mid the thunders\' deep rattle. \nLike clans from their hills, at the voice of the battle ; \nAnd brightly the fire-crested billows are gleaming. \nAnd wildly from Mailoc the eagles are screaming : \nOh, w-here is the dwelling, in valley or highland, \nSo meet for a bard as that lone little island ! " \n\n\n\nIn this meet home for bard, St. Fin Bar had his hermitage, before he \nfounded the cathedral in Cork ; and the spirit of soUtary devotion could not \n\nhave chosen a \n:j^^g^:j^;7--\'f; _;%;-, more appropriate \n\n^^\'7"\xc2\xb0\'=\'^\'\xc2\xb0"?!^^"^^ " ^ " "* ~ and awe-inspiring \n\n:^^ spot. \n\n_ The Pass of \n\n__^ Keim-an-eigh \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n^^ the path of the \n\ndeer \xe2\x80\x94 is a narrow \nravine. Though \na mile in length, \n^^ at no one. spot \ncan many yards\' \ndistance be seen \nat either side. \nDoheny, in the \nnarrative of his \n\nwanderings while outlawed in \'48, truly says: "The road seems to lose itself \nevery moment in the mountain ; but, as you proceed, you find a new avenue of \nescape, and a more fantastic group of impending rocks. * * Though that pass," \nhe adds, "had been recently immortalized in the unequalled verses of Dennis \nFlorence MacCarthy, and I have learned to love a spot whose echoes of min- \nstrelsy, so soft and passionate, had found a local habitation, I was ignorant of its \n\n\n\n\nT/ie Green Little Island, Gougane Barra \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n461 \n\n\n\nlocality, and entirely unprepared for the surpassing grandeur of the scene which, \nin the full blaze of a harvest moon, burst upon my view."* \n\n\n\n\n\n/ \n\n\n\nGlengariff can be \nreached by pursuing \na soutli-western route \nfrom Gougane Barra, \nor by following either \nof two roads from \n-\'^ Bandon to Bantry ; \n^ the northern by Dun- \nmanway and Drumda- \nleague; and the south- \nern, and most pictur- \nesque, by Clonakilly, \nRoss - Carberry, and \nSkibbereen. From \nBandon to Dunman- \nway, the road keeps \nalong the left bank of Bandon River, through the valley which lies between \n\n\n\n^^%#*"1j - \n\n\n\nViews at Glengariff. \n\n\n\n* The Felon\'s Track; a Narrative of \'48, etc., by Michael Doheny, Chap. IX. The poem by MacCarthy, here \nalluded to, is entitled, Alice and Una, a Tale of Keim-an-eigh. \n\n\n\n462 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthese towns. The surrounding country is of the same hilly character as that \nabout Macroom and Bandon, but increasing in magnitude and wildness as we \napproach the mountains that guard Bantry Bay, and protect the inland country \nfrom the winds and waves of the Atlantic. Dunmanway was founded by Sir \nRichard Cox ; but of the stately mansion erected by him nothing remains save \nthe kitchen. The town is almost surrounded by rocky hills, which unite with \nthe mountain ranges, and is refreshed by the streams which join the Bandon \nRiver. Immediately behind is Mount Gunnery, seven hundred and fifty-seven \nfeet high ; and on the north is the range which unites with the Sheehy Moun- \ntains in the west, and separates the valley of the Bandon from that of the Lee \xe2\x80\x94 \nthe sources of these rivers being only nine miles apart, and both issuing from \n\nthe Sheehy Mountains. \n\n.^^^saME===\xc2\xab_ The road generally trav- \n\n3^_ eled is that by Drumda- \n\n^ \xe2\x96\xa0\'^^Kt league, a little west of \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0^ 3P^^^ which it joins the coast \n\n^JC i;^;; road, which turns north- \n\n~ r\'^/\' . ward at Skibbereen. The \n\nlatter is situated on the \nHen, which is navigable \nfor vessels of two hundred \ntons to Old Court, within \ntwo miles of the town. \nSkibbereen suffered ter- \nribly during the great \nfamine of \'46-48, but \nhas recovered.* Not far from it is a remarkable salt-water lake. Lough Ine, \nsurrounded by precipitous hills, variously bare and wooded. In the centre is a \nlong island, on which are the ruins of one of the castles of the O\'Driscolls. \nThe view is sketched from a graveyard, exclusively devoted to the interment of \nchildren, in which was formerly a chapel dedicated to St. Bridget. \n\nIn Roaring Water Bay there are numerous islands, and at the head of one of \nthe inlets is the village of Skull, also sadly historical from the desolating visita- \ntions of the great famine alluded to. It stands at the foot of Mount Gabriel, \n\n\n\n\n* Skibbereen is of modern date. Formerly Baltimore was the port for Skibbereen, Castlehaven, Skull, etc., and \nthe custom-house was at Castle Townsend ; but in the ofTicial returns Skibbereen is now denominated the port, and the \ntrade of all the others included in it. See Marmion\'s Maritime Ports, p. 514. \n\n\n\nCORK. 463 \n\nwhich rises over the sea one thousand three hundred and fifty-nine feet. The \nparish \xe2\x80\x94 a wild and mountainous region, full of rocky headlands, gorges, and \nravines \xe2\x80\x94 is sixteen miles long and six miles broad. "If you have never been in \nthe southwest district of Ireland," says Caesar Otway, " if you have not seen \nthose great bulwarks that stand as redoubts to the continent of Europe against \nthe force of the great ocean, you cannot form, from seeing English hills, or even \nWelsh or Wicklow mountains, an idea of these outworks of Ireland. They \nseem as if the deluge had washed them bare to the very bone \xe2\x80\x94 no bog, no soil, \nno verdure on them. Oh ! what a noble expanse, as east and west we turn our \n\n\n\n\nCrookhaven Harbor. \n\neye coastward. To the right, Baltimore ; to the extreme left, Crookhaven and \nthe Mizenhead, and studded along rows \xe2\x80\x94 seagirt isles \n\n" \' That like to rich and various gems, inlay \nThe unadorned bosom of the deep.\'" \n\nCrookhaven is the remotest village in this district, at the head of the long \ninlet of that name, which lies in a direction almost parallel to that of the coast, \nbeing bounded on one side by mountains, and on the other by a peninsula of \nlow rocks, which protects it from the ocean. Of the islands in Roaring Water \n\n\n\n464 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nCrookliavcn, looking in/and. \n\n\n\nBay, the best known is Cape Clear, geographically recognized as the most south- \nern point of Ireland ; although the Fastnet Rock, on which there is a light, is \nstill farther south. Cape Clear, the Insula Sancta Clara of ancient ecclesiastical \nwriters, is three miles long, one mile wide, and contains nearly eleven hundred \n\nacres, four-fifths \n\n_ ^^^3^,^ - of which is un- \n\n_-~isiffi^^S^: \xe2\x80\xa2 -^Tt:^ _\xe2\x80\x9e j" :- cultivated. The \n\n_ ^ inhabitants are \n\nin a very primi- \n\n-t\';\' ^1^ t i V e condition. \n\n. Ssgr The scenery is \n\n^^_^ -^^ romantic, and on \n\nthe southern side \npresents a steep \ninaccessible cliff \nto the Atlantic. Here is a light-house, with a revolving light of twenty-one \nlamps, seven of which become visible every two minutes, and are distinguish- \nable in clear weather from a distance of twenty-eight nautical miles. On the \nsouthwest, by the sea, are the ruins of Dunanore Castle, or the Golden Fort, \nbuilt by the O\'Drlscolls ; and near the little harbor the prostrate remains of St. \nKeevan\'s Church. The castle is in a position at once perilous and pictur- \nesque. " When \nI got to the top \nof the castle," \nsays Dr. Smith, \nthe historian of \nCork, " and be- \nheld the ocean \nroaring round \nme, I heartily \nwished to be \nagain on the mainland." \n\nSherkin Island, or Innisherkin, lies between Cape Clear and the mainland, \nfrom which It is separated by a channel of only a quarter of a mile, forming \nthe western side of Baltimore harbor. It is about the same extent as Cape \nClear, but is cultivated, and contains slate quarries, which are extensively \nworked. The abbey ruins, close to the harbor, are seen with fine effect from \n\n\n\n\nDunanore Castle, Cape Clear. \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n465 \n\n\n\n\nAbbey Ruhis, Innisherkin. \n\n\n\nBaltimore; and near by, on a creek, is a ruined castle of the O\'DriscoUs, which \n\xe2\x80\xa2defended the harbor. \n\nThe best views of this interesting coast are from the sea ; but the elevated \ngrounds of Cape Clear com- \nmand a distinct prospect for \n\nupwards of fifty miles, from - - ^-^-i^f ^F^tew \n\nMizenhead, at the mouth of "* \n\nDunmanus Bay, to the old "^ \n\nhead of Kinsale. The shore \nis everywhere extremely \nbold, though the great height \nof the mountains to the \nwest of the cape gives an \nappearance of comparative \nlameness to the coast in an \nopposite direction. Dun- \nmanus Bay, Bantry Bay, Kenmare River, and the great estuaries of this coast, \nare all bounded by chains of mountains, which run nearly parallel to each other \nin a southwesterly direction, and terminate in lofty capes. Mizenhead, the first \nof these which meets the eye of the spectator at Cape Clear, obstructs \xe2\x80\x94 owing \nto its great elevation \xe2\x80\x94 the prospect of the more distant points ; but many of the \n\nmountains of Kerry are plain- \nly observable above it. \n\nFrom Crookhaven we can \ncross the peninsula of Kil- \nmore, which runs out to Mizen- \nhead, and reach Dunmanus Bay \nwhich in turn is separated by \nanother tongue of land from \nBantry Bay ; and from the \nhead of Dunmanus Bay the \ntown of Bantry is only dis- \ntant six miles. To the west \nof Crookhaven the country \nis characteristically wild and \nrocky, and without any unusual interest until Dunmanus Bay opens to the view \xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x80\xa2 \nits first appearance resembling that of a spacious lake surrounded with moun- \n\n\n\n\nBantry Bay. \n\n\n\n466 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ntains ; nor is the nature of the place fully disclosed until, on approaching the \nshore, the Atlantic Ocean is discovered between the lofty capes which guard the \nentrance to the bay. Crossing the mountains which bound it on the west, the \neye has already lost sight of Dunmanus, when a sudden prospect of Bantry \nBay bursts upon it, which is still more spacious, and bordered by mountains of \ngreater elevation. The scenery of each of the great estuaries is distinguished \nby so many noble features, that, as Weld says, it would be difficult to determine \nwhich is entitled to pre-eminence. Bantry Bay, however, possesses the advan- \ntage of being adorned with a considerable extent of wood. Dunmanus Bay is \n\n\n\n\nEntrance to Bantry. \xe2\x80\x94 From Lord Bantry^s Swan Lake. \n\n\n\nfifteen miles long ; Bantry Bay over twenty-one miles long, and from two and a \nhalf to five miles wide ; and the peninsular ridge separating these bays is finely- \nterminated by Sheepshead, which is four hundred and five feet high, with a grad- \nual rise inland to a height of eleven hundred feet. \n\nBantry Bay \xe2\x80\x94 the Inver Sciene of the ancients \xe2\x80\x94 is indeed a magnificent sheet \nof water, landlocked by gigantic abrupt headlands ; and from favorable points of \nview presents some of the noblest prospects afforded in the whole country. No \nharbor in the British empire, says the author of the Handbook of Ireland, presents \nsuch combinations of land and sea scenery. Nothing in England or Ireland is at \n\n\n\nCORK. \n\n\n\n407 \n\n\n\n\nThe Harbor of BereJiaveti. \n\n\n\nall comparable to it. Even grand and wild Lough Swilly must yield the palm \nfor mountain outline, expanse of water, genial climate, and luxuriant wood ; for \nBantry Bay contains the \n\nmarvellously beautiful , ^,;_-^_ jj^^^^^- . \n\nGlengariff. On the sum- \xe2\x80\x943,^--- - - ^-^ \'i^.^ \n\nmit of the road, from ,_ _\xe2\x80\x94 -\'E^sSyiV \n\nDunmanus to the town jj _ - ^- \n\nof Bantry, a gorgeous -% \n\npanorama is before you. TZTl _- \n\nTo the northeast, in the \nfar blue distance, rises \nMangerton, dark, lofty, \nand massive ; to the left \nof it M a g i 1 1 i c u d d y\'s \nReeks, from whose sum- \nmit we have looked down \nupon the white sunlit \nclouds resting upon its bosom. Nearer, on the northwest, Hungry Mountain \nrises like an embattled wall before you, and from its height falls the cataract of \nAdrigool, in a perpendicular column of eight hundred feet ;\'"\' and, nearer still, fac- \ning the north, white and crystal-like, rises the Sugar-Loaf Mountain. Immediately \n\nunder your feet is the inner \nharbor of Bantry, protected \nfrom the outer bay by the \ngreen island of Whiddy ; the \nplacid water studded with isl- \nands. Bere Island, six miles \nlong, near the mouth, forms \nthe capacious and safe harbor \nof Berehaven. Whiddy Isl- \nand, near the town, contains \nthe modern forts, and an old \nThe House of Rocks. castle of the O\'Sullivans. \n\n\n\n\n* The overflowing waters of several small lakes, near the summit of this mountain, are precipitated from an eleva- \ntion of two thousand feet, down a mural cliff of vast height, unimpeded by the rocky obstructions which are opposed \nto its descent nearer to the bottom of the fall, giving the effect of both fall and cataract, and the spectacle is plainly \nseen from the town of Bantry, on the opposite coast, a distance of seventeen miles. G. N. Wright, M. A. \n\n\n\n468 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nBantry is historically famous in connection with the first expedition of the \nFrench, which had been procured by Wolfe Tone for the liberation of Ireland. \n\nThe magnificent Glengariff is nearly opposite Whiddy Island, distant from \nBantry town ten miles by land, and seven by water across the bay. On the \nland route, some years ago, Mr. Hall came upon a curious habitation formed by \nrocks, which had fallen in such a manner as to form an enclosed chamber, liter- \nally a house of rocks, which was utilized as a dwelling by a peasant family. \n\nGlengariff merits all the praise which has been lavished upon it. Bartlett \nthe artist, thought that no scene, in all the concentrated beauties of Killarney, \ncan vie in sublimity of character, greatness of effect, in the softer graces of \nthe waving wood, or in the wilder rudeness of the mountain aspect, with that \n\n\n\n\nAt Glengariff. \n\nrepresented in the steel engraving. It is situated at the head of an inlet, run- \nning off the northwest extremity of Bantry Bay, and abruptly turning and pene- \ntrating the Caha Mountains for about four miles ; the greatest width of the glen \nbeing a mile. It seems a noble lake, adorned with picturesque islands of various \nforms, some merely denuded rocks, others crowned with gnarled oak, pensile \noak, and flowering arbutus. On every side the waters lave the mountain\'s foot, \nexcept now and then a gentle slope, spreading into wood and lawn, is broken at \nmoderate distances by verdant or rugged dells, through which steal or flash the \npurest streams. Many rivers fall into the mountain basin, amongst which the \nGlengariff rolls its course through various scenes of enchantment. Rising at \nthe base of the lofty Eagle\'s Nest, and winding round Lord Bantry\'s shooting \nlodge, it passes under Cromwell\'s Bridge, and finally falls down a precipice of \ntwenty feet into the sea. \n\n\n\n\n\nCROMWELL\'S BRIDGE, QLENGARIFF. \n\n\n\n470 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nWhat chiefly impresses the mind at Glengariff is the deep conviction, that \nthere is no mere pleasing allusion of art in all you behold \xe2\x80\x94 that it is Nature, \nsuch as she is, in all her wildness and beauty. One of the most comprehensive \n\nprospects in the vicin- \nity is to be had from \na woody steep on the \nold Berehaven Road, \nnorth of Cromwell\'s \nBridge. The eye \nranges over it without \ncontrol, and it is im- \npossible to put it with- \nin the limits of a sketch. \nThe artist has to con- \nfine himself to the sur- \nroun dings of the \nbridge, with Hungry \nHill looming up in \ntowering grandeur, its \npeak one huge mass \nof naked rock. \n\nTourists are com- \npelled into comparison \nof this glorious glen \nwith Killarney ; but \nin fact the scenes are \nseparate illustrations \nof the same region. \nKillarney is not very \nfar from the Cork \nborder ; and in leav- \ning the latter we pass \nthrough a tunnel in \n\n\n\n\nFrom Glengariff to Killarney. \n\n\n\nthe mountains to reach Kerry, and .-ompare its splendors with those we have \nleft behind. \n\n\n\n\nCoi>jTight, 16\'Sj by Thomas .Kelly, Jfew i\'orlc \n\n\n\n^ M \n\n\n\nCO.o"" <^-I-CTr4_^, \n\n\n\n\nJ\'o^ ffjl^^\' \n\n\n\nCopyright, lS80,ty Itomas JvL\'lljvNew York, \n\n\n\nRussell 1^ StruUiers,lCii^\'\':i \n\n\n\nKING\'S COUNTY. \n\n\n\n\nKing\'s County is chiefly noted for the large portion of the bog of Allen \nwithin its boundary, and the extensive ruins of Clonmacnoise. To gain a o-ood \nidea of the bog, the tourist \n\nshould drive through it from - \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nBirr or Parsonstown, north- -,;,?fc \n\nward to Ferbane, leaving the \ntown of Banagher to the \nright on the bank of the \nShannon. Near Banagher is \nGarry Castle, a stronghold of \nthe MacCoghlans, and a sam- \nple of the old fabrics to be \nmet throughout the county. \nThe road through the bog is \nof considerable elevation, and \npresents on either side traces \nof the buried forest that once \ncovered the country, stumps \n\nof trees standing in all positions, preserved from decay by the antiseptic quality \nof the water. Of this bog-oak, fancy furniture, ornaments, and articles for the \nsetting of jewelry are fashioned. The rivers Barrow, Boyne, and Brosna have \ntheir source in the bog. Ferbane, on the banks of the latter, is a convenient place \nfrom which to visit Clonmacnoise. The visitor to Athlone can drive southward \ntwelve miles to the ruins, which, situated on a series of undulating and desolate- \nlooking hills on the eastern bank of the Shannon, present a remarkable and \nsolemn effect. They consist of two round towers, remains of churches and castles, \nand a cemetery. On the first hillock are the sunken walls of an extensive build- \ning ; on another is the great round tower \xe2\x80\x94 O\'Rourke\'s \xe2\x80\x94 roofless, but swathed \nabout the centre with a deep raiment of ivy. Farther inland is the second \xe2\x80\x94 \nMcCarthy\'s \xe2\x80\x94 round tower ; and behind it McDermott\'s Church, with its splen- \ndid arched and carved portal. The sculptured cross which stands close by is \n471 \n\n\n\n\nGarty Castle. \n\n\n\n472 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ndeemed, if not equal to that at Monasterboice, only second to it in Ireland. \nThe massive castle, it would seem, must have been rent asunder by some explo- \nsion, so fantastic are the forms and positions into which the remains have been \ncast. Some parts lie, in masses larger than human habitations, in the fosse. \nOthers lie in vast heaps in the ballium, or court-yard ; an immense curtain wall, \nten feet thick, undermined, lies at an angle of forty-five degrees, on half a foot of \nits thickness, and presents at a distance a strikingly remarkable hanging ruin. So \npreponderating is the proportion of mortar to the rounded pebble stones in the \nmaterial of this building, that Otway concluded it was erected by forming a case- \nwork of wood, within which the stones were thrown at random, and over which a \n\ngrouting mortar was poured. \nThis having settled and so- \nlidified, the exterior case- \nwork was removed. "No \nbreccia, no pudding-stone \ncan be harder than the com- \nposition ; it would be as \neasy to break the limestone \npebbles as to separate the \nmortar." "The Nun\'s \nChurch " is a beautiful tem- \nple, and " the sculptured \nheads and other ornaments of the door arches and windows are wonders and \npuzzles of ancient Irish architecture." \n\nThe name of Clonmacnoise indicates that it was the scholastic retreat for \nthe sons of nobles. It was granted by the ard-righ Dermot MacKerbeol to \nSt. Kiaran, who founded a seat of learning there in a.d. 548. St. Colcha, its \npresident, visiting the continent in 791, received from Charlemagne a present of \nfifty shekels. It became an abbey of canons regular of St. Augustine, and was \namazingly enriched by kings and princes. Its landed property was so great, and \nthe monasteries subject to it so numerous, that, as Archdall says : " Almost half \nof Ireland was said to be within the bounds of Clonmacnoise." It was but too \ntempting to the Danes, by whom, it was several times pillaged. \n\nKing\'s County is distinguished as the birthplace and residence of the emi- \nnent astronomer the Earl of Rosse, in front of whose castle at Birr is the mon- \nster telescope known to the world of science. \n\n\n\n\nClonmaC7ioise Cross and Ruins. \n\n\n\nARMAGH. \n\n\n\n\n\nArmagh, \n\n\n\nThe inland county of Armagh is more distinguished in an historical than a \npicturesque aspect, although it has Lough Neagh on the north, Slievegullion on \nthe southwest, and a hilly surface between. The name Ard-Macha denotes an \n\n473 \n\n\n\n\n474 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nelevated plain or field, and no doubt extended to the surrounding country from \nthe hill on which the venerable city of Armagh was founded by St. Patrick, \na fact which, although the situation is not central, nor the population large, con- \nferred on it the dignity of being the primatial see of Ireland. The cathedral \nand various ecclesiastical edifices having been built, schools and colleges were \nalso established here, which became famous throughout Europe, and are said, \n"upon safe authority," says Hall, "to have furnished England with its earliest \nteachers \xe2\x80\x94 having been, in fact, the small spring which supplied the healing waters \nof Christianity to the other British Isles." In Stuart\'s History of Armagh will \nbe found references to numerous authorities illustrating the extent and celebrity \nof those schools, to which numbers of foreign students flocked, and were \n\n"gratuitously furnished with lodging, \n.iia,.^,. ^ diet, clothes, and books." During the \n\n^jWJI^HHHHHk wars of the Elizabethan era most of the \n\n, / diocesan records m Ulster were lost, a \n\ncalamity the Cathedral of Armagh for- \ntunately escaped, although it was con- \ntinually involved in the misfortunes \nwhich visited the city, which, from the \nninth to the twelfth century, was de- \nstroyed seventeen times. \n\nThe city, which covers the sides of a \n, , ,, ^ , , , , r \xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\x9e steep hill, standing in the centre of a \n\nInterior of the old Cat hear at \'before its Restora- \xc2\xb0 \n\ntion. fertile valley, is exceedingly interesting \n\nfrom every side of approach. From the \nsolidity of its structures and pavements, it is esteemed the best built and best \nmanaged inland town in Ireland. The venerable cathedral, on the site of St. \nPatrick\'s foundation, stands on the top of the hill in a most commanding posi- \ntion ; has been frequently re-edified, and owes much to the munificence of Pri- \nmate Robinson, afterward Lord Rokeby, in the last century, and of Primate Lord \nJohn G. Beresford, who was promoted to Armagh in June, 1822. The latter \ncontributed ;^30,ooo to the work of restoration, which was entrusted to Mr. Cot- \ntingham, the architect who established his reputation by the restoration of \nRochester Cathedral and the Abbey of St. Albans, in England. " No ecclesi- \nastical structure in Great Britain, of similar extent," said Hall, " surpasses it in \ngrace and beauty;" and Mr. Walker, writing in 1871, said it was the grandest \nfeature in the picture, until "it was transcended by the magnificent Catholic \n\n\n\nARMAGH. \n\n\n\n47S \n\n\n\ncathedral, commenced by Primate Crolly, a quarter of a century ago, and just \nnow finished." The latter stands on elevated ground, adjacent to the town, and \nis really one of the grandest and most elaborately decorated edifices in the \ncountry. After the battle of Clontarf, the bodies of King Brian, and of his son \nMurrough, and two other slain chieftains of his family, were brought by way of Kil- \nmainham, Swords, Duleek, and Louth, to Armagh, where the hero-monarch was \nburied on the north side of the old cathedral, and his son and kinsmen on the \nsouth side. An object of modern interest is a Methodist chapel, erected near the \nspot where John Wesley often preached in 1767. \n\nAbout two miles from the cathedral, from \nwhich all the streets seem to diverge into the \nopen country, proceeding westward on the \nroad to Caledon, and to the right of it, are the \nremains of the famous Eamhain Macha, now \ncorruptly called Navan Fort. This ancient \npalace of the kings of Ulster \xe2\x80\x94 which gener- \nally resembles the works on Tara, although \nnot so extensive \xe2\x80\x94 was founded by Kimboath \nthree hundred years before Christ ; and it re- \nmained the seat of the Ulster monarchy until \nits destruction in a.d. 332. Lanigan, in his \nEcclesiastical History, falls into the error of \nsaying that the growth of Armagh aided the \ndownfall of Eamania ; whereas the latter was \ndeserted for a century before St. Patrick \nfounded Armagh. For ten and a half cen- \nturies Eamania was houseless, when, in 1387, Niall O\'Neill, presumptive king of \nUlster, built a house within it for the entertainment of the literati of Ireland. \nIn the neighborhood of this palace was the mansion of the Red Branch Knights, \nfamed in song and story. Relics of antiquity \xe2\x80\x94 arrow-heads, spear-heads, skians, \nand occasionally a brooch or ring of costly workmanship \xe2\x80\x94 are frequently dug \nup in this vicinity. \n\nOverlooking the Blackwater, and commanding an important pass on the \nnorthwest border of the county, is the Fort of Charlemont. Strongly occupy- \ning the summit of a hill, Schomberg determined on capturing it for William \nof Orange. It was held for James II. by a brave old soldier, named Teague \nO\'Regan. Schomberg having summoned the latter to surrender, was told that \n\n\n\n\nCharlemont Fort. \n\n\n\n476 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nhe was "an old rogue, and should not have it." The Dutchman, finding he \ncould not drive out the governor or garrison, determined to starve them out, and \nso sat down before the fort. McMahon, an Irish officer, at the head of five \nhundred men, gallantly fought through the besiegers with relief for the fort. \nO\'Regan accepted the supply of provisions, but persistently refused admission \nto McMahon or his men, saying he had force enough to hold the fort, and any \naddition would only the more hastily consume -the food. McMahon attempted \nto fio-ht his way back ; but after two efforts was compelled to take shelter under \nthe walls of the fort. Old Governor Teague still swore that, " if they could \nnot make their way out they should have no lodging or entertainment from \nhim ; " and McMahon\'s party had to take up their quarters on the counterscarp, \nbetween the fortress and the foe, in a miserable condition, until Governor Teague \nhimself had to capitulate. \n\nWest of Armagh, and on the road to Portadown, is a locality which had a \nvicious interest for those who kept alive civil discord and " religious " dissensions \nin the days of the "Ascendancy." This county was the scene of much bitter- \nness and many feuds between the Protestants, who, from the time of making \nattacks, were called " Peep-o\'-day Boys," and the Catholics, who, acting in self- \ndefence, were styled " Defenders." The artful dissemination of rumors revealing \npretended Popish plots and intended massacres, led to great atrocities against the \nDefenders, who were almost without arms ; and finally, to the conflict on the \n2 1st of September, 1795, known as "The Battle of the Diamond." To name \nsuch a melee, between an excited mass of unarmed Defenders, and a well-organ- \nized armed body of Peep-o\'-day Boys, with the support of the magistracy, " a \nbattle," is ridiculous ; but the occasion and the battle, which were toasted for \nyears, became notable in other respects ; for the victorious party on that day \ndropped the name of " Peep-o\'-day Boys," and, assuming the name of " Orange- \nmen," formed their first lodge. This was the prelude to such reckless but \nsystematic persecution, that in the next year, in this small county alone, seven \nthousand persons were either killed or driven from thier homes. \n\nThe county contains, in addition to the primatial city, the towns of Lurgan, \nPortadown, Tanderagee, Market-Hill, and Newtown-Hamilton, all of which are \nattractive from their clean and comfortable look, and the evidence of business, \nindustry, and thrift. \n\n\n\n\nO^-^-\'O u \n\n\n\n\'\xe2\x96\xa0\' h \n\n\n\n:o|.)rielil, 1SS2. by Thomas KeUy..Ke>\xc2\xbb York. \n\n\n\n\nCopyrlgbt^lSSO^ \'by Thomas Ktlly,N\xc2\xabw X\xc2\xabrk \n\n\n\nROSCOMMON, \n\n\n\n\n\nt^^S-\'Il^^\'^-^\'^"-^\'\'^^^^- \' \n\n\n\n\n\n\nAthlone Castle. \n\n\n\nRoscommon is an inland county, of fiat and undulating surface, with the \nShannon and its lakes on part of its eastern, and the Curlew Mountains on the \nnorthern boundary. Loughs Key and Gara are respectively in the north and \nwest. Isaac Weld, in his Statistical Survey of the county, says : "There is not a \nsingle instance out of the mountain district where the rocks form cliffs, or \nbecome remarkable objects in the landscape." The soil, however, is highly ver- \ndurous, and " the imagination cannot picture land more valuable for the feeding \nof cattle." Remains of antiquity are numerous, being principally connected \n\n477 \n\n\n\n478 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nwith the ancient and royal family of O\'Conor. Of the principal towns, Boyle \nis in the north, Roscommon in the centre, and Athlone in the south. In the \ncemetery of Kilronan, near Boyle, is buried Turlough O\'Carolan, the famous \nbard, who died in the neighborhood, in 1741. Roscommon was founded by St. \nComan, who gave his name to the county, in 550. He built an abbey, which \nin turn gave way to a superior structure, raised by O\'Conor, King of Con- \nnaught, in 1257; about which time the English also built a castle near it. \n\nThe great interest of the county rests, however, around Athlone, the great \ngateway from Leinster into Connaught. When Henry HI. gave the dominion \n\nof Ireland to his son, \nhe expressly reserved \n-^\';^C|_ it ; and when Con- \n\nnaught was assigned \n^ to Richard de Burgo, \n\nthe king retained \n^= " five cantreds of \n\nland, contiguous to \n^ the fortress." It is \n\nof immense strength \nto-day ; and from its \ncentral position, and \nconnections by rail, \nriver, and canal, might \nbe the most impor- \ntant town in Ireland. \nThe sieges by Generals Douglas and Ginkle, and the defences by Grace and \nSt. Ruth, are of thrilling and inspiring interest. After the latter had lost \nAthlone, he retreated and made a stand at Aughrim, a small village about \ntwenty miles distant, in Galway. The famous battle was fought on the 12th of \nJuly, 1691. Ginkle was fully equipped, and flushed with success. St. Ruth was \nin want of absolute necessaries, and his loss of Athlone, after it had been won, \ncreated distrust. Toward evening the battle became one of unparalleled obsti- \nnacy. The great brunt of the contest took place at Kilcomodon Hill, on the \ntop of which now stands a modern church. Here St. Ruth was killed by a can- \nnon-ball, which is still preserved in St. Patrick\'s Cathedral, Dublin. An attempt \nwas made to conceal his death ; but the news spread, and the English remained \nmasters of perhaps the most eventful field fought during the war. \n\n\n\n\nKilcomodon Hill. \n\n\n\nQUEEN\'S COUNTY. \n\n\n\nQueen\'s County Is, to a large extent, a portion of the central plain of \nIreland. At two opposite points, however, the land is elevated ; in the north- \nwest, Arderin, the summit of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, rising to an altitude \nof seventeen hundred and thirty-four feet above sea-level ; and on the southeast, \nthe Dysart Hills afford fine views of plantations and extensive demesnes. The \ncultivation of the soil, with the use of peat-mould from the bogs, has resulted in \nexcellent crops ; but as there has been considerable consolidation of holdings, the \npopulation has greatly diminished. The county formed part of the ancient prin- \ncipalities of Ossory and Leix, and \nthe inhabitants offered the most stub- \nborn resistance to the Anglo-Nor- \nman invaders. Centuries of struggles \nwith the Pale, and opposing tribes \noutside of it, brought desolation, and \nthe district was transformed into \nshire divisions In the reign of Mary, \nby the titles of King\'s and Queen\'s \nCounty, the chief town of the latter \n\nbeing called Maryborough, after the queen, and of the former, Phillpstown, \nafter her husband. \n\nThree miles and a half from Maryborough is what is well termed one of the \nmost striking objects in the kingdom \xe2\x80\x94 the rock of Dun-a-mase. The rock rises \nabruptly from a vast plain, a sort of land Gibraltar, and was covered by a for- \ntress. The foundation of the latter is said to date back to the third century. On \nthe arrival of the Anglo-Normans, the position was the stronghold of O\'More, \nDynast of LeIx. In the succeeding century It fell Into the hands of William \nde Bruce, in right of his wife, who was daughter of Strongbow by his wife Eva, \ndaughter of Dermott McMurrough, the king of Leinster, who had invited the \ninvaders. To this period is ascribed the foundation of the castle, the ruins of \nwhich remain. Dun-a-mase became the terror of the neighborhood, and "the \n\n479 \n\n\n\n\nRock of Diin-a-mase. \n\n\n\n48o \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nbulwark of the Pale." Although from its natural strength it would seem \nimpregnable, it was several times taken and retaken. In 1325, the hereditary \nowner, O\'More, took it, and recovered the whole country, holding it for four \nyears. Again, in the reign of Edward III., the O\'Mores held it for two years, \nand for centuries it was changing hands by arms until 1650, when it was dis- \nmantled by the English. The rock is an elliptical conoid, accessible only on \nthe eastern side, defended by the barbican. From the barbican you advance to \nthe gate of the lower ballium ; it is seven feet wide, and the walls are six feet \nthick. It had a parapet, crenelles, and embrasures. The lower ballium is three \nhundred and twelve feet from north to south, and one hundred and sixty from \neast to west. The gate of the upper ballium is placed in a tower, from which \nbegin the walls which divided the upper and lower ballium. The upper is \n\none hundred and eleven feet \nfrom east to west, and two \nhundred and two feet from \nnorth to south. \n\nThe rock is seen from a \ndistance of twenty miles in \nevery direction, and its sum- \nmit commands an uninter- \nrupted prospect of very great \nextent. The huge masses of \nmasonry, scattered in pictur- \nesque confusion, form a sug- \ngestive contrast to the tran- \nquil beauty of the surrounding scene. \n\nA noteworthy curiosity is one of those gravel-ridges called " eskers," which \nin some parts is not more than one hundred feet wide at the base, and slopes \ngradually to a width of twenty to thirty feet. It extends for nearly six miles \nthrough the Queen\'s County, and, with some breaks, for some twenty-five miles \nthrough King\'s County. It gives the idea of a made road through the bog of \nAllen, and, on examination, is found to be composed of limestone, water-worn \npebbles, and gravel, such as is met with on the sea-shore or the margin of a \nlarge lake. It is planted in some places, and there is a road on it near Mary- \nborough, from which it runs in the direction of Mount Mellick, a neat Quaker \ntown, the station of a branch of the Grand Canal from Dublin, on which traveling \nby " fly-boat " was much in use, before the days of railroads. \n\n\n\n\nCanal Fly-Boat. \n\n\n\n\nCopyriftlit.lSSl^by Thoma;; KcHy.Ncw York. \n\n\n\nliusscll j; SlTuihcr!s,Eng^\xc2\xbb,^. Y. \n\n\n\n\nCopyright, 1682, by Thomas itolly. \n\n\n\nFERMANAGH. \n\n\n\n\nFermanagh, anciently the territory of the O\'Hegnys, and from the twelfth \nto the seventeenth centuries under the lordship of the MacGuires, was made \nshire ground in the \n\ntime of Elizabeth, ~ ^ = " ===^ 1^^ \n\nand was included -=-si=^ ^ - ^ _ ^_ \n\nin the plantation of \nUlster by James I. \nIt is appropriately \nnamed \xe2\x80\x94 Feor- \nmagh-eanagh \xe2\x80\x94 the \ncountry of the \nJakes. The terri- \ntory is mainly a \nframework for the \n\nabounding mirrors of water, the principal of which. Lough Erne, extends through \nthe whole county, and divides it into nearly equal parts. The Erne is forty-five \nmiles in length, and is, properly speaking, divided by the island on which the \ntown of Enniskillen is built, into the upper and lower lakes. The upper lake \nis south of the town to Wattle Bridge, and the lower lake north of it to Ross- \ncor ; and the stream which enters its most southern point, and that which \nescapes from the lower lake into Donegal on the north, alike retain the name \nof the River Erne. Enniskillen consists principally of one street, which con- \nnects at either end with the mainland by a bridge ; and its name \xe2\x80\x94 a corruption \nof Innis (Island) sec (bush) lion (net) \xe2\x80\x94 net-bush-island,* indicates that the \nancient fishermen fastened their nets to a bush \xe2\x80\x94 or bushes \xe2\x80\x94 on the island. It is \ncalled by an English tourist the Interlacken of Ireland, and he gives a suggestive \nidea of its surroundings. " It is a clean and neat little town, nestling between \ntwo beautiful lakes, and on each side of the town rushes a crystal stream, pellucid \n\n* The Annals of Clonmacnoise says, Enniskillen \xe2\x80\x94 Inis-Cethlenn \xe2\x80\x94 received its name from Cethlenn (Kehlen), \n\xe2\x96\xa0wife of Balor, the Fomorian chief. \n\n481 \n\n\n\n482 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nas the \' arrowy Rhone.\' It is true that Enniskillen cannot boast of its pine- \nclad cliffs, its snow-capped Alps, its glittering glaciers, magnificent cataracts, its \nStaubach, Giesbach, Reichenbach ; but all these would the inhabitants of Inter- \nlacken and Thun gladly exchange for the fertile fields waving with golden grain, \nand the rich pasturages covered with herds, that everywhere surround the two \nfinest lakes in the land."* From any of its approaches the situation of Ennis- \nkillen is striking ; and from the highest elevations of the island it commands \ndelightful views in every direction. Forbes thinks it would not be easy to point \nout a more charming locality, "even without taking into account its magnificent \nlakes." On the chief summit is erected a lofty column, in honor of a penin- \nsular hero, General Sir Lowry Cole, a descendant of the founder of the town, \nwho received the island as a grant from James I. \n\nHalf a century ago Inglis confidently asserted, that the lower Lough Erne, \ntake it all in all, was the most beautiful lake in the three kingdoms ; and " but \nfor the majestic Alpine outline that bounds the horizon on the upper part of \nLake Leman \xe2\x80\x94 Lake Leman itself could not contend in beauty with this little- \nvisited lake in the County of Fermanagh." Otway thought, and Forbes agrees \nwith him, that the number of hilly islands in the upper lake detract from the \nexpansive effect which should be the essential charm of a water view ; but this \ncharacteristic presents features of attraction which are indicated by Eraser, when \nhe says that it is only those who have sailed through this labyrinth of little \nlakes, or have traversed their shores, that can form a correct idea of their \ndevious windings, their endlessly varied creeks, nooks, and bays, or the numer- \nous pretty islets they contain. Among the latter some are wooded, others in \ntillage ; but, generally speaking, the larger are inhabited ; and it adds not a little \nto the scenery to see the peasantry, who are located on the islands or along the \nshores of the mainland, rowing their little home-made skiffs over the smooth \nwaters from isle to isle, or from shore to shore, at which men and women, old \nand young, are equally expert. The upper lake is ten miles long, and its largest \nisland, Inishmore, contains two thousand nine hundred acres. The lower lake \nis twenty miles long, the width varying from two to five miles. Boa Island con- \ntains thirteen hundred acres. The islands in both lakes are said to number \none for every day in the year, and they are all green, and most of them \nexceedingly productive. Whether we traverse the shores of the lower lake, or \nsail over its quiet waters, which are broken into pleasing forms by the wooded \n\n\n\n* Dr. James Johnston, Tour in Ireland. \n\n\n\nFERMANAGH. \n\n\n\n483 \n\n\n\nand pastoral islands scattered throughout its broad expanse, we are charmed \nwith the views. The receding, still coves, nooks, creeks, and smooth shallow \nbays, the sloping lawns, wooded promontories, sequestered knolls, cultivated \nleas, and the beautiful mansions which decorate its banks, more than justify now \nMr. Inglis\'s appreciation of it fifty years ago. The lakes are nearly on the same \nlevel ; but at Rosscor, the waters of the lower assuming the still river character, \nmaintain it for three and a half miles to Belleek, where they are precipitated \nover a limestone ledge fourteen feet high, and rush thence in flashing activity \nthrough the County Donegal to the sea. \n\nIn addition to the attractive surroundings of Enniskillen, and the drives on \nthe lake roads, than which, says Dr. Johnston, " there is scarcely a more beauti- \nful drive in Europe than that between Enniskillen and Bally-Shannon ; " there \nare within easy reach scenes \nand objects of picturesque and \nhistorical interest of no usual \norder. About five miles from \nEnniskillen, west of the lower \nlakes, on the hilly road to the \nlonely Derrygonnelly, are the \nruins of Monea Castle. A few \nmiles to the northwest, on a \npromontory jutting into the \nlake, are the remains of Tully \nCastle, from which a fine view \nis obtained. These castles are \n\nof the " Plantation" era, and present the general characteristics of the strongholds \n\xe2\x80\x94 a square keep, or castle, turreted at the angles, and surrounded by an outer \nwall enclosing "a strong court or bawn " \xe2\x80\x94 by the erection of which the "under- \ntakers " kept in part their contract to supplant, and hold the soil against, the right- \nful but evicted chiefs. On the bosom of the lower lake, however, must be \nsought the objects of deepest interest \xe2\x80\x94 on the famous Devenish {damh-inis, \nox island) \xe2\x80\x94 less than three miles from Enniskillen ; and a row of half an hour \nwill bring the tourist to it. We will make the trip, and with the aid of Mr. W. \nF. Wakeman, the worthy pupil and assistant of the ablest Irish archaeologists, \ntake note of the venerable ruins on the venerated isle. \n\nOn the left we pass Portora Royal School, situated upon a pleasant elevation \nabove a gentle indentation of the lake. This little bay was the usual place of \n\n\n\n\nMonea Castle. \n\n\n\n484 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nembarkation for Devenish, and hither for ages were brought the bodies of the \ndead on their way for interment in the holy island \xe2\x80\x94 hence the name " Portora," \nor the " Port of lamentation, or tears." Beyond this point the lake suddenly \nnarrows and becomes almost a rapid. On a bank to the left, immediately over \nthe water and fully commanding the passage, rises the shell of a once formidable \ncastle, a fortress of the Maguires, no doubt. It is of a quadrangular form, with \nround towers at the angles. The walls are pierced with holes for matchlocks or \nmuskets ; and as these apertures are original features, the building cannot be \nregarded as of very great antiquity, notwithstanding the Norman-looking towers \nwhich flank the walls. Not a single moulding of window or doorway, by which \na date might be inferred, remains. The proud chieftains and ladies bright, the \n\nminstrels, light -limbed \nkerns, and mailed gal- \nlowglasses, who once oc- \ncupied this keep, have \nlong mouldered in the \ndust, and the old pile \nseems fast crumbling \nto the lake. Upon the \nopposite side of the \nlake appears Derrygore \nHouse, in the Eliza- \nbethan style, and in ad- \nmirable keeping with \nthe surrounding scenery. \nOur boat now shoots into a bright expanse of waters fringed with forests of \nbulrushes, behind which are countless beds of blue forget-me-nots and other \nwild flowers of nature\'s planting ; white water-lilies float in front ; and every \nnow and then, from clumps of reeds and other aquatic plants, frighted by our \nintrusion, start the water-hens and flappers. The island soon appears, a long, \nlow, grassy eminence, over the ridge of which the upper portion of the round \ntower is seen. There too is the square belfry of the abbey^a thing almost of \nyesterday compared with its companion \xe2\x80\x94 yet the less ancient building presents \na more time-tinted and wind-worn appearance than the tower. As we near the \nisland other buildings become distinguishable. \n\nDevenish is clothed in rank herbage during summer. Excepting the gray \nwalls and the solitary hut of a herd, there is no trace of man. But when winter \n\n\n\n\nTally CastU \n\n\n\nFERMANAGH. \n\n\n\n485 \n\n\n\nhas stripped it, the old gardens of the ancient community can be traced in many \na boundary, and even by the presence of herbs and plants, which, though old \nin the soil, are not found in other islands, or on the surrounding hills. The \nbuildings upon Devenish are, firstly, the foundations and a portion of the walls \nof the house or oratory of the saint ; secondly, the round tower ; thirdly, the \ngreat church ; fourthly, the abbey ; fifthly, the foundations of an unknown \nenclosure \xe2\x80\x94 probably the aherla or burial-place of the early abbots. \n\nThe house of St. Molaisse, like that of St. Columba at Kells, in Meath, \nwas a small, stone-roofed quadrangular edifice. Its remains testify that it was \none of the earliest structures composed of stone and lime in Ireland, and \nimpress us with the \n\ntruth of tradition in - ^_ \n\nassigning it to the \ntime of St. Molaisse \n(Maol losa, servant of \nJesus), who died 563. \nIt was doubtless the \ndwelling and oratory \nof the saint, afterward \nconverted into a \nchurch. The stones, \nwhich appear to have \nbeen rudely ham- \nmered, are of im- \nmense size, and laid \nin the Cyclopean \n\nstyle. The walls were of great thickness. Sixty years ago this inestimable relic \nof the architecture of the sixth century, so intimately associated with one of the \nmost illustrious fathers of the Irish Church, stood as it had remained for near \nthirteen hundred years : but now little is left save the foundation and some three \nfeet high of the side walls. \n\nThe Round Tower is considered the most beautiful and perfect structure of its \nclass remaining, and is esteemed a marvel of masonry. Of course the wooden \nwork \xe2\x80\x94 doors and floors \xe2\x80\x94 are all gone ; but the stone construction remains per- \nfect. Without and within, its sides are as smooth as a worn pavement ; or, as \none writer says, the inside " is almost as smooth as a gun-barrel." The stones \nare so admirably laid and fitted one to another, that at a little distance the inter- \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nRound Tower and Church on Devenish. \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nslices of the masonry can scarcely be detected. The doorway is semi-circular, \nwith a prominent architrave and inclined sides ; nearly all the stones forming its \ncasing run the whole thickness of the wall. At the joining of the roof there is \na unique feature \xe2\x80\x94 a cornice running entirely round, ornamented with four human \nheads well executed in stone, placed at the cardinal points, each surmounting \none of the four large apertures. The beards of the heads are curiously inter- \nlaced, like those on the capitals of the western doorway of Killeshin Church, \nnear Carlow. The spaces between the heads are decorated with bosses, scrolls, \nand other ornaments. With the exception of a triangular opening above the \ndoorway, the windows and apertures are of a quadrangular shape. Were the \ntower of Devenish an erection of a year ago, it could not give fairer promise \nthan it does, with all its age, of a long future. It is sixty-nine feet high to the \n\nconical converg- \ning at the top, \nwhich is fifteen \nfeet more. It is \nforty -eight feet \nin circumference, \nand the walls are \nthree feet five \ninches thick; thus \nthe inside is only \nnine feet ten \ninches in diam- \neter. At the base, outside, a circle of stones projects five inches. \n\nOf the great church, the only remaining feature is a fine window in the \nsouthern wall. This is round-headed, with semi-cylindrical mouldings very \ndeeply cut. The masonry of this church is quite distinct from that of St. \nMolaisse\'s oratory or the tower. Near the highest part of the island are the \nruins of a large abbey church, erected by Matthew O\'Dubhagan in the early \npart of the fifteenth century, which, being dated on a wall in the interior, is of \nvery great interest to students of archaeology. \n\nTo the north of the oratory, within a small enclosure, which appears to have \nbeen the ahcrla, or saints\' burial-place, is a rude stone coffin \xe2\x80\x94 supposed to be \nof mediaeval times. The island is regarded with great veneration by the people, \namong whom there is no dearer wish than to be laid to rest within its sacred \nprecincts " among their own." \n\n\n\n\nSculpture on Round Tower \xe2\x80\x94 North side. \n\n\n\nLEITRIM. \n\nLeitrim, a long narrow county of the province of Connaught, lies alon;^ th\'^. \nwestern boundary of Ulster, and extends from Longford County to Donegal \nBay. The extreme length of the county is fifty-one miles, and its width varies \nfrom two to twenty. The Shannon, which flows through Lough Allen, forms \nthe western boundary : and the scenery partakes, to some extent, of the char- \nacter of that in the northwest of Fermanagh, and east of Sligo. \n\nThe county town is Carrick on Shannon, situated on the left bank of the \ngreat river. Lough Erne and the Shannon are connected by a canal, which \njoins the former at Ballydonell, and the latter north of Carrick, at the village \nof Leitrim, whence navigation is continued to Lough Allen by canal, thus open- \ning navigation of the river from the ocean at Limerick almost to its source. \n\nLough Allen is eight miles in length, and enlarges gradually northward from \na quarter of a mile to three miles. It is one hundred and fifty feet above the sea- \nlevel, and lies between the mountains of Sleive-anierin on the east, and the \nBraulieve Mountains on the west. The highest summit of the former is one \nthousand nine hundred and twenty-two feet ; and that of the latter, which is \npart of the chain which runs to Sligo Bay, thirteen hundred and seventy-seven \nfeet. These mountains, from their extent and elevation, present remarkable \nfeatures in the country for many miles around, and also in conjunction with the \nscenery outside of the county Leitrim ; Lough Allen being at its narrowest part, \nrunning close to Cavan on the northwest, while on the opposite point it is for \na couple of miles the boundary of Roscommon. As the nursery of the Shan- \nnon, Lough Allen is perhaps the most noticeable feature of the county. Shortly \nafter the river issues from the lough, it is augmented at Ballintra bridge by the \nfirst, and not the least, of its tributaries, the Arigna ; next, by the Fiorish stream ; \nby another stream at Leitrim village ; and then by the Boyle river, with the \nwaters of Lakes Gara, Key, and Oakport ; strengthened by which the increasing \nShannon sweeps under Carrick bridge, and thence through the centre of the \nisland to the ocean. \n\n\n\nMONAGHAN. \n\n\n\n^w\'%s. \n\n\n\nMoNAGHAN, an inland county of Ulster, was anciently the country of the \nMacMahons, who continued their haughty opposition to the English down to \n\nthe time of Elizabeth ; \n^jzj^irr^ when the representa- \n\n"^^I^^g^^^ -^ = tive of the clan was \n\n^s=^s=^ treacherously captured \n\n-^~- and hanged, and the \n\nterritory made shire- \nground. That this \nlegal murder, the cir- \ncumstances of which \nare given by Fynes \nMoris on, had no \n" beneficial " effect on \nthe clan is evidenced \nby the report of Sir \nJohn Davies, on his fa- \nmous tour of inspection in the succeeding reign. In 1595, Hugh O\'Neill \ndefeated the English at Clontibret, contributing to the rout by slaying in des- \nperate single combat a gigantic officer named Seagrave. \n\nA portion of the southeast is mountainous, the sterile highlands of Slieve- \nbeagh rising to a height of twelve hundred and fifty-four feet ; while an offshoot \nof the Pews extends into Armagh. The general surface presents a succession \nof hills and ridges with small loughs and bogs between. Although the county \nis said to have derived its name from Muin-echan \xe2\x80\x94 the dwelling of monks \xe2\x80\x94 it \npresents a strong contrast to its neighbors, Armagh, Louth, and Down, by the \nrarity of either religious or military remains. Clones, on the border of Fer- \nmanagh, is an exception, containing the ruins of an abbey of the fifth century, \nand a round tower, with the novelty of construction of having rough stones on \n\nthe outside, and smooth within. \n\n488 \n\n\n\n\ntween Monaglian and Cavan. \n\n\n\n\nCupji-iffht, !li82,by Thomas KeUy, New York. \n\n\n\nMm \n\n\n\n^ \n\n\n\n\n\xc2\xb0^ ME A Til \\ \n\n\n\nLOUTH. \n\n\n\n\nKing Johii\'s Castle, Carlingford. \n\n\n\nLouth, the smallest county of Ireland, embraces scenes, and is associated \nwith deeds, of the saddest and deepest interest, as well as of great importance \nin the history of England and Ireland. Invaders, saints, kings, and adventurers \nhave passed over it \xe2\x80\x94 Heremonians, Danes, Christians, Cromwellians, Jacobites, \nWilliamites, have made its waters, its fields, and its towns famous or unfortu- \nnate, and assured the little territory a wide space in history. With its eastern \nside to the Irish Sea from Carlingford Bay to the Boyne, it presented induce- \nments or facilities for adventure from the earliest period. Foreign kings have \nhunted each other over its borders ; foreign dynasties have sunk in its waters ; \nand its soil has been deeply drenched by the most treacherous and atrocious \nshedding of native blood by a more ferocious puritan butcher than any pagan \nDane that ever ravaged an abbey. Toward the sea the surface is level, and on \nthe north mountainous. The principal towns are Dundalk and Drogheda. Other \n\n489 \n\n\n\n49\xc2\xb0 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nnoticeable places are Ardee, near the western border, where are some interesting \nremains, Castle Bellingham on the east, famous for its ale, and Carlingford. on \nthe northwest. \n\nDundalk, the county town, is situated on the north, on an inlet of the bay \nof the same name. In this bay took place the only important naval fight \nrecorded in Irish history; when Fingal, the leader of the Irish fleet, boarded the \nvessel of Sitric, the Danish prince, and, seeing the chances of success on the \nside of the latter, suddenly seized him, and leaped with him into the foaming \nsea, which engulfed both to death. Excited by this patriotic example, two other \n\nIrish chief- \ntains seized \nTor and Mag- \nnus, brothers \nof Sitric, and \nleaped with \nthem to eter- \nnity. These \nacts of self- \nsacrificing \ndaring inspir- \ned the Irish \nand appalled \nthe Danes ; \nand the latter, \nleft without \nleaders, gave \nCastle Roche. way on all \n\nsides, and few \nescaped to carry the tale to the shores of the Baltic. Edward Bruce was crowned \nking of Ireland, in Dundalk, in 1315 ; and at Faughart, a few miles distant, he \nwas defeated and slain. Advancing through the elevated land bordering the coast \nfrom Dundalk to Carlingford, we have fine views of both bays, and of the coasts \nof Louth and Down. Carlingford, romantically situated between the mountains \nand the sea, is one of the oldest of Irish towns. The blue waters break against \nits walls, and the mountains, in steep acclivities, rise from behind its gardens \nnearly two thousand feet. The fragments of walls and towers of the Anglo- \nNorman era, the picturesque I\'emains of King John\'s Castle, rising thirty feet \n\n\n\n\n\n1 \n\n\n\n\n\n\nLOUTH. \n\n\n\n491 \n\n\n\n\nKing James\'s Quarters before the Boyne. \n\n\n\nover a precipice jutting into tlie bay, the ruins of the Dominican Abbey, erected \nin the fourteenth century, in the centre of the town, speak of busy Hfe, culture, \nand importance in the past. The CarHngford Mountains are unique, as well \nas affording picturesque back- \nground to the scenery on all _==s^Sisr^-_ \n\nsides. They are encircled by ~ ^ =--=\xe2\x80\x94 = = ":: v: \n\nthe sea, except for eight miles, "ifj? * \n\nand are separated for that dis- \ntance from the adjacent moun- \ntains by a beautiful and well \ndefined dale ; and excellent \nroads run around their base, \ngiving great facility to enjoy \nthe charming tract of country, \nwhich discloses new and strik- \ning objects at every advance. \nFrom the mountains them- \nselves magnificent prospects are obtained of the Mourne Mountains, and those \naround Newry ; of the bays of CarHngford and Dundalk, the coast of Louth, \nand of the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains, and, in fair weather, all that the \n\neye can embrace of the inter- \n-- ,j^,;t!^9. mediate country. \n\n\'\'"^ The castle attributed to \n\nKing John was one of the \nborder strongholds of the \nEnglish Pale. Another, and \none of the most picturesque \nin Louth, is the frontier fort- \nress called Roches Castle, sup- \nposed to be a corruption of \nRose Castle, named after \nRose Verdun, who is said to \nhave constructed it. It stands \non a rocky hill, and the area \nwithin the rampart walls is \nsomewhat triangular, inclining to a semicircle in form, following the uneven- \nness of the hill, and utilizing the rock on which it stands. The great chord is \n\n\n\n\nKing William\'s Quarters before the Boyne. \n\n\n\n492 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthe front line of eighty yards, and the reverse forty. Holding out for Charles^ \nin 1649, it was demolished by Cromwell. \n\nDrogheda, formerly Tredagh, a very ancient town, is situated on both sides \nof the historic Boyne. Although the famous battle, which exiled the Stuarts \nand firmly seated William of Orange on the English throne, was fought three \nmiles from the town, and on the Meath side of that " ill-fated river," the event, \nits antecedents and results, are inseparably associated with Drogheda. Both \nJames and Wiliam sojourned before the battle, not far distant, the former \n\nin Carntowa \n; . Castle, situated \n\n^ ^ ~ on a r i s i n g \n\nground some \ntwo miles north \nof Drogheda, \non the road to \nClogher ; and \nWilliam in the \nold house a t \nArdagh, on a \nlimestone ridge \ntwo and a half \nmiles from Old \nBridge. So an- \ncient is Drog- \nheda, that it is supposed to have been founded by Heremon, son of Milesius. \nParting in a storm on the south from his brother Heber, who landed in Kerry, \nHeremon, after many difficulties, landed at Drogheda, having lost his brothers \nAireach and Colpa in the bay. It was in memory of the latter that the ancient \nname Imbhar Colpa was attached to the locality. Drogheda suffered from \nDanish incursions in the eighth, ninth and tenth centuries; and after the Anglo- \nNorman occupation it was included in the original grant of Meath to Hugo de \nLacy. Richard II. held his court here in 1395, and received the submission of \nfour of the provincial princes, upon whom he conferred knighthood in the Church \nof the Magdalen, although they assured him it was a superfluous honor, as they \nhad been knighted at the age of seven by their fathers. Parliaments were fre- \nquently held in Drogheda, and it was here the Poynings\' law of 1494 was \nenacted. Thomas, Earl of Desmond, was beheaded on the North Commons, in \n\n\n\n\nCromwell\'s Fort. \n\n\n\nLOUTH. \n\n\n\n493 \n\n\n\n1467, by order of the Lord Deputy Worcester. His head was sent to DubHn, \nand spiked on the castle ; and a stately monument, erected with his effigy \nin the Magdalen Church, was removed to Christ\'s Church, Dublin, a century \n.afterward. In 1641, Drogheda was successfully defended by Sir Henry Tich- \nbourne against Sir Phelim O\'Neill. In 1649, it was held for the royalists by Sir \nArthur Ashton, a brave and experienced officer, who had two thousand live hun- \ndred foot, and three hundred horse. Cromwell besieged and attacked it with \n\xe2\x96\xa0eight thousand foot, four thousand horse, a formidable train of artillery, and all \n\n\n\n\nSt. Lawrence\'s Gate. \n\n\n\nthe necessaries of war. He sat down before it, erected a battery, and made a \nbreach in the wall. Twice the gallant garrison repulsed the enemy, but finally, \nled by Cromwell in person, entered, and commenced that course of butchery in \nIreland which has left his name a terror and a curse in the country, and the type \nof hypocrisy and inhumanity to every Christian historian. The elevated spot, \nfrom which he first assaulted the town, is still known as Cromwell\'s Fort. \n\n\n\n494 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nCrypt at Mcllifont Abbey. \n\n\n\nFormerly Drogheda, as a fortified town, was walled, and of these by-gone \nfortifications the principal remains are St. Lawrence\'s Gate and the West Gate. \nThe former, with its strong circular towers and connecting curtain wall over the \n\narch, is a good specimen of ancient mili- \ntary architecture. Among the ecclesi- \nastical remains are St. Mary\'s church, \nand the Magdalen steeple. The Boyne \nviaduct is the most important structure \nof the kind yet erected in Ireland, and, \nwith the Newfoundwell viaduct, pre- \nsents a splendid effect. Crossing the \nBoyne east of the town, at a height of \nninety feet above spring tide, an iron \nsuperstructure of three lattice beams,, \nfive hundred and fifty feet in length, \nis carried over the river on four lofty- \npiers, forming three spans, the centre \ntwo hundred and fifty, the others one hundred and twenty-five feet each. The \napproach from the southern side is by twelve semicircular arches of sixty feet \nspan, and from the north by three similar arches. A little further on the north- \nern side is the Newfoundwell viaduct, consisting of five lofty semicircular arches \n\nof forty-five feet span. It is built of \n\nmassive rubble stone, and the semi- \ncircular piers, which are carried high \nabove its level, and massive para- \npets, castellated and embattled, are \neffectively in keeping with the old \nSt. Lawrence Gate. The viaducts \nwere designed by Sir John MacNeill, \nand executed by Mr. Evans, the \nbuilder of the Conway tubular bridge. \nAmong the antiquities of interest \nto be visited from Drogheda are \nMellifont and Monasterboice. They are each about five miles and a half from \nthe town in different directions. Mellifont is situated in a romantic valley, \nwatered by the little river Mattock, near the road to Ardee. The Abbey was \n\xe2\x80\xa2"the first erected (in 1142) by the Cistercians, the great church builders of the \n\n\n\n\nBaptistry, Mellifont. \n\n\n\nLOUTH. \n\n\n\n495 \n\n\n\nMiddle Ages." At the dissolution of the monasteries, it was converted into a \nplace of defence, and subsequently suffered much. The principal remains, not \nextensive, but very interesting, are St. Bernard\'s chapel and the Baptistry. \nThe chapel is partly imbedded in the rock, and consists of a crypt and an upper \napartment. The crypt is a chaste specimen of elaborate and finished workman- \nship ; the roof is groined, the arches springing from clustered demi-columns on \neach side ; the capitals are all richly carved with rich designs of foliage. There \nare three windows, and two arched recesses ; the windows are also groined and \npillared at the angles, the capitals representing grotesque heads. * * The \nmullions are destroyed, but some portions of the tracery of the tops remain, and \na handsome lozenge, or nail-headed moulding, is continued round the interior \nof each." The Baptistry, according to Archdall, had a \nreservoir on the top for water, which was conveyed by \npipes to the several offices of the abbey. The door- \nways are of semicircular arches, and, with the pillars, \n" are models of exquisite workmanship," and, says Hall, \n"if the productions of a native artist, they are highly \nvaluable as specimens of the state of the fine arts in \nIreland prior to the English invasion." The ornamen- \ntal parts are of red granite, and were formerly painted \nand partly gilt. It was to Mellifont that Devorgoilla, \nthe wife of O\'Rourke, prince of Breffni, retired and \nended her days, after her willing abduction by Mac- \nMorrough, the king of Leinster, had led to the intro- \nduction of the Anglo-Normans. \n\nMonasterboice, Mainistir-hiitc \xe2\x80\x94 that is, the monas- \ntery of Boece, or Boetius \xe2\x80\x94 owes its origin to a celebrated bishop and abbot \nof this name, said to have been a disciple of St. Patrick. \'He died on the \nseventh of December, 522. Of its history little is preserved, beyond some \nscattered records of the deaths of its abbots and professors anterior to the \ntwelfth century, of whom the poet, antiquary and historian, Flann, was the most \ndistinguished, and whose death is thus recorded in the Annals of the Four \nMasters : \n\n" 1056. Flann of the Monastery, lecturer of Monasterboice, the last fountain of knowledge \nof the Irish, in history, poetry, eloquence and general literature, died on the fourth of the calends \nof December (28th November)." \n\nA list of historical poems by Flann, is given in O\'Reilly\'s Irish Writers ; \n\n\n\n\nCross of Muredach. \n\n\n\n496 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nbut his more valuable remains are his Synchronisms of the Irish Kings, with the \nEastern and Roman Emperors, and of the Christian Provincial Kings of Ire- \nland, and the Kings of Scotland of the Irish race, with the chief monarchs of \nIreland. This work is embodied in the MS. Book of Lecan. \n\nMonasterboice consists of a small village sufficiently remote from the ruins \nto allow them to be seen with advantage ; the remains of two small oblong \nchurches, a round tower and three stone crosses, two standing, the other fallen \nand mutilated, the whole surrounded by an ancient graveyard, in which are \nheadstones, tombs and monuments of all sizes, shapes and ages. The churches \nare small and rude, appearing as if they never had any pretensions to archi- \ntectural taste or \ngrandeur; but \nthe round tower \nis magnificent in \nproportions, and \nmost solidly built \nof limestone. In \nits present dilapi- \ndated condition \nit stands about a \nhundred and ten \nfeet, though orig- \ninally, before be- \ning struck by \nlightning, and its \ncap and a portion \nof the superstructure destroyed, it must have been many feet higher. In circum- \nference it is fifty-one feet, and is divided into five stories, each of the floors \nbeing lighted by one aperture, except the fifth, which has four openings, facing \nthe cardinal points. The entrance on the southeast, six feet from the ground, \nis but five feet six inches in height, and twenty-two inches in width. The crosses, \ntwo of which are on the south side of the church, are magnificent works of \nantique art, tastefully and elaborately sculptured with legends, images and armo- \nrial bearings, among the latter of which is discernible the " Red-hand " of the \nO\'Neills. One of these crosses, upon which the name of Muredach is legible, \nis believed to be " the most ancient religious relic now in Ireland." \n\n\n\n\nRuins at Monasterboice. \n\n\n\n\xc2\xa5,ftifrf^W \n\n\n\n\nJ>-B O G S JE If A. \n\n\n\nCOEJciglit IS30 Ijj ThomaaKelljUewc York. \n\n\n\nKusaell &. SlruQie\xc2\xbbs,Eiig*s,If J\xc2\xab \n\n\n\n\nJtMnell i Siruthers, K F.| \n\n\n\nC..l.yrii,\'lit, UVJ, \\syTl:omaVK\'<:hy, Ninv York. \n\n\n\nWEXFORD \n\n\n\n\nhtt)) Latuck on tlu SlaiiLj \n\n\n\nPerhaps there is no more interesting district in Ireland than the maritime \nCounty of Wexford. With other maritime counties it will not compare in point \n\xe2\x96\xa0of scenery, but its ecclesiastical remains are important, and its military ruins \nnumerous, while in the industry which blesses peace it is conspicuous, and in the \nspirit of heroic daring and sacrifice which asserts independence, or is worthy to \npreserve it, the people of Wexford have not been surpassed. In the time of \nPtolemy, this district was inhabited by the Menapii, whose chief city, Menapia, \nwas the site of the present town of Wexford. The extreme southern point \xe2\x80\x94 \nthe peninsula of Hook, is, in the opinion of some writers, the Hieron Promon- \ntoinum, "sacred promontory," of the Grecian geographer. Its present name is \nderived from the Danes, who, having devastated the surrounding country, made a \npermanent settlement, the centre of which was Waesfiord (West-Haven). In May, \n1 169, the first expedition of the Anglo-Norman allies of the base MacMurrough, \nunder Robert Fitz-Stephen and Maurice Prendergast, landed at Bag-an-bun, in \n\n497 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nPromontory of Bag-an-bun. \n\n\n\nFethard Bay. Formerly part of the territory of Hy Kinsellagh, Wexford was \nformed into a county in the reign of John. Precipitated into the earUest conflict \nwith the invaders, Wexford was pre-eminently distinguished as the unexpected \n\nscene of the most protracted, \nheadlong, valiant, and desper- \nate struggle of the national- \nists in \'98. The whole county \nmay be said to have been a \nbattle-ground; but Oulart \nHill and Enniscorthy, Gorey \nand Tubberneering, New \nRoss and Vinegar Hill, are \npoints especially associated \nwith patriotic fortitude, valor, and sacrifice.* \n\nWexford occupies almost a detached position from the rest of Ireland, hav- \ning the sea on its eastern and southern sides, the estuary of the Suir and the \nBarrow along the greater part of the western border, the remainder of which \nand the northern side are hemmed in by a lofty range of mountainous country, \nthrough which there are few lines of communication. On the north, or Wlck- \nlow border, the mountains extend in a southwesterly direction to the valley, \nthrough which flows the river Slaney, \ndividing the range from the still more \nlofty and extensive chain of Mount Leln- \nster and the Blackstairs, three remark- \nable pointed summits of which are called \nthe Leaps of Ossian\'s Greyhounds. \nExcept on these borders, there are no \nelevated ridges of any great extent, but \nthe surface Is diversified by single hills, \nsome of which \xe2\x80\x94 the Forth mountains \xe2\x80\x94 \nattain an elevation of five hundred feet \nabove the sea-level. The land declines \nfrom the primitive mountains toward \nthe sea In unequal elevations ; and where the deposits of alluvial substances are \n\n\n\n\nThe Saltee Islands. \n\n\n\n* See " The Wexford Campaign" and "The Trail of the Menapii," \'98 and \'4S : T/ie Modern Revolutionary Hist, \nand Lit. of Ireland. By John Savage. 1856. \n\n\n\nWEXFORD. \n\n\n\n\nRuins of Baniiow Abbey. \n\n\n\nconsiderable, the surface presents a picturesque waving outline, and is enlivened \nby numerous gently flowing streams. \n\nThe Slaney, which enters the county on the northwest, and crosses it in \na southeasterly direction to the \nbay of Wexford, presents a suc- \ncession of fine views, to which \nthe remains of antiquity and \nmodern villas and mansions add \neffective and contrasting ele- \nments of scenic interest. The \nsea-coast presents no shelter \nfrom Arklow to Wexford harbor, \nwhich, though capacious inside, \nwas obstructed by a sand-bar, \nthe deepening of which, how- \never, has been effected. \n\nPassing the Tuskar Light, " the mariner\'s guiding-star to the Irish Channel," \nand doubling Carnsore Point, the southeastern extremity of Ireland, the Saltee \nIslands come in view. A sand-bank seven miles long extends westward from \nCarnsore to Crossfarnogue Point \xe2\x80\x94 pierced only by two narrow inlets, which \nadmit the tide-water to and from the sea-lakes of Lady\'s Island and Tacumshin. \nAnother unbroken sand-bank of six miles, still west, limits Ballyteigue Lough, \nwest of which is Bannow Bay. Near the mouth of the latter is shown the site \n\nof a town buried by the sea-sand, \n\xe2\x80\x94 it is said, at the close of the seven- \n\nteenth century. The only indica- \ntions of former human occupation \nare the remains of a church or \nabbey, on the summit of a hill, \noverlooking a series of hillocks \nwith straight and regular depres- \nsions between, pointing out, it is \nbelieved, the courses of covered \nstreets. At the interior extremity \nof Bannow Bay, on the Scar, are \na group of remarkable ruins, generally called the Seven Castles of Clonmines, \nalthough but four castles and an abbey are indicated by portions of the square \n\n\n\n\nTintern Abbey. \n\n\n\n500 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nClonmines. \n\n\n\ntowers of the former, and walls of the latter. According to various statements, \na town, surrounded by vallum and fosse, existed here \xe2\x80\xa2 and Mr. Fraser, in his \n\nStatistical Sur v ey of \nthe county, says the \nDanes established a \nmint at this place. \n\nThe Bannow coast \nis rocky, and affords \ngood views of the op- \nposite shores of Feth- \nard Bay, the rocky head- \nland of Bag -an -bun, \nand the peninsula of \nHook. The town of \nFethard, an ancient lo- \ncality of prominence, \nsending two members \nto the Irish Parliament, is now but a village. A few miles north of it is the \nbeautiful ruin of Tintern Abbey, which also can be reached by Nelson-bridge, \nover the Owenduff, from Clonmines. This interesting abbey was founded in \n1 200 by William, earl marshal of England, and earl of Pembroke, who mar^ \nried the daughter of Strongbow and the princess Eva. When in extreme peri] \nat sea, the earl made a vow that if he escaped he would build an abbey where \nhe safely landed. His \nvessel found shelter \nin Bannow Bay, and \nhe erected this ab- \nbey in honor of the \nMother of God, and \nbrought to it Cister- \ncian monks from Tin- \ntern, in Monmouth- \nshire. \n\nThe southern part \n\nof Wexford is particularly distinguished by the number of plain, square castles, \nor tower-houses, clearly intended more for defence than for luxury. They mark \nthe era of the invasion ; and Mr. Wakeman directs attention to the combination \n\n\n\n\nThe Lake at yoJuts/own. \n\n\n\nWEXFORD. \n\n\n\n501 \n\n\n\nof old Irish and new Anglo-Norman ideas in ecclesiastical architecture, instancing \nat least three abbey churches in Wexford, erected at that period, as amongst the \nmost sumptuous in Ireland. These are the abbeys of Tintern, Ferns, and Dun- \nbrody ; and of which Dunbrody has excited the greatest amount of admiration. \nIt is strikingly situated in the southwestern boundary of the county on a pro- \njecting point, where the Barrow and Suir meet, and flow into Waterford har- \nbor. It was founded by Harvey de Montmorency, or Marisco, in 1182. Having \n\n\n\n\nEnniscot tin \n\n\n\nquarrelled with Strongbow, he built this monastery, and, settling it with Cister- \ncian monks, entered it himself, became the first abbot, died within its walls, and \nwas buried there. It was spacious and magnificent ; and the ruins inspire rever- \nential awe for its noble arches, its grand high tower, its tasteful windows, and \nbreadth of wall. Not many years ago the interior walls of the church were \nnearly entire ; on each side of the chancel were three chapels, vaulted and \ngroined ; the great aisle was divided into three parts by a double row of arches, \nsupported by three piers : the inside of the arches have a moulding springing \n\n\n\n502 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nfrom beautiful consoles. The tower is supported by a noble arch, and the cloisters \nappear to have been spacious, but their ruins alone remain. The west window \nis entire ; the door beneath was magnificent, having been adorned with open \nfilagree work cut in stone, and highly raised from its surface. Up to the year \n1492, the records show that the abbots of Dunbrody were several times sum- \nmoned, as lords, to Parliament. About this time Baron Finglas advised the sup- \npression of this and other abbeys as "adjoining to the Irishry, and o-ivino- more \naid and supportation to those Irishmen than to the king or his subjects," and \nthat they should be given to young lords, knights, and gentlemen out of \n\nEngland, which shall \ndwell upon the same." \nIn 1537, five years be- \nfore the general sup- \npression, Dunbrody \nwith its possessions \xe2\x80\x94 \nfisheries, mills, grange- \nlands, etc., was vested \nin the crown. \n\nThe southern dis- \ntrict, lying between the \nbays of Bannow and \nWexford, and the hills \nof Forth and the sea, \ncomprises the baronies \nof Forth and Bargy, the \ndescendants of a special colony, which has preserved old customs and a hybrid \ntongue, while in many respects becoming more Irish than the Irish. The late \neminent Dr. Russell, President of Maynooth College, in an address before the \nBritish Association in Dublin, gave an account of the people of these baronies, \nwhich presents some very interesting points. They are distinguished by a general \nair of comfort and independence, and customs brought by the early colonists are \nstill adhered to. In the working days of summer a siesta is taken called cntcete. \nIt lasts for two hours after the noontide meal, is reduced to one hour in harvest, \nand dispensed with in winter. At all seasons early rising, breakfasting before \ndaylight in winter, and habits of order, cleanliness and unceasing occupation, \nare cultivated. Some facts command the attention of social philosophers and \nethnologists. Firstly, the same families have generally remained on the same \n\n\n\n\nDunbrody Abbey \xe2\x80\x94 West. \n\n\n\nWEXFORD. \n\n\n\n503 \n\n\n\nfarms for six centuries, and the population, though dense, is not crowded beyond \nthe means of subsistence ; and, it is claimed, " there is not a better housed, better \nclad, or better fed peasantry in the United Kingdom." Secondly, although a \nTeutonic race, living separately from the natives, and having Protestant land- \nlords, they have always steadily rejected the Reformation. They are, probably, \nthe most devoted Catholics in Ireland, producing manifold more priests than \nany other population of the same extent. How, it is asked, are these facts to \nbe reconciled with certain current theories about race and religion ? How is it \n\n\n\n\nRemains of Sclskcr Abbey adjoining the old fortifications. \n\n\n\nthey have none of the social faults usually ascribed by Protestants to the influ- \nence of the Catholic religion ? Thirdly, they seem to verify a mooted theory \nabout the causes of insanity and idiocy. In order to keep their farms in the \nsame families, they have been in the habit of intermarrying with blood relations ; \nand to this is ascribed a fact, that Forth and Bargy send more lunatics to the \nasylum at Enniscorthy than any other part of the county. Fourthly, though \nthe landlords are Protestants, evictions and " agrarian outrages " are excep- \ntional, if not almost unknown, and, but a few years since, only one landlord was \n\n\n\nS04 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nRathmacnee Castle. \n\n\n\nSpoken of as " feloniously " appropriating his tenants\' improvements in the form \nof increased rents. Fifthly, although the people of Forth and Bargy are men \n\nof " Saxon blood," they fought \nagainst England in 1798; and \nit has been remarked, that for \nhalf a century no man from the \ndistrict was ever known to take \nroyal bounty as a soldier. \n\nThe country throughout \nthese baronies is usually flat, \nand without striking features, \nsave the remains of the tower \nhouses alluded to. Over a sur- \nface of forty-thousand acres, the \nremains of fifty-nine castles are \nstill standing, and the sites of \nmany more are pointed out. \n\nFrom the Warder\'s watch-tower, at least two, and often six castles were ia \n\nsight, and a signal-fire on one soon spread the alarm over the colony. These \n\nedifices were plain stout towers, built at the corner of a square walled and \n\nbattlemented enclosure. The fine \n\nmodern castle of Johnstown is built \n\non the site of one of these fortalices, \n\nin the centre of Forth, and is itself \n\nthe centre of many charming im- \nprovements, among them an artificial \n\nlake, having several turrets of carved \n\nstone on its borders. Rathmacnee \n\nCastle has been preserved in its orig- \ninal condition, and is, perhaps, the \n\nrepresentative ancient type of those in \n\nthe barony of Forth, as Bargy Castle \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 the former residence of Beauchamp \n\nBagnal Harvey, who was executed by \n\nthe Government in \'98 \xe2\x80\x94 is the most \n\ninteresting in the other barony.* \n\n\n\n\nBargy Castle. \n\n\n\n* Forth (forward, or foremost) and Bargy (from biorg, a defence), are Anglo-Saxon words, indicating the con- \nditions under which the colonists fortified themselves. \n\n\n\nWEXFORD. \n\n\n\nS05 \n\n\n\nBallyteague Castle, the largest of these edifices, on an inlet of Ballyteague \nLough, was the residence of John Henry Colclough, a leader in \'98, who was \ncaptured with Harvey on one of the Saltee islands, and executed. \n\nThree miles, with commanding prospects on either side, leads us from Johns- \ntown to Wexford, before entering which we pass Cromwell\'s Rock, where the \nPuritan butcher planted his guns to bombard the town. It was betrayed into a \nsurrender, and the garrison was put to the sword. Wexford is a town of very \ngreat antiquity, and was a prominent theatre of action before and after the in- \nvasion. Strongbow dwelt here ; his sister was married to Raymond le Gros here ; \nand from here Henry H. took ship- \nping for England, on Easter Monday, \n1172. It received a charter in 1318. \nIn 1462, the Lancastrians, under Sir \nJohn Butler, seized it, but were beaten \nin the field by the Earl of Desmond, \nwho held a parliament here the fol- \nlowing year. In 1 641, if was a chief \npost for receiving military supplies \nfrom abroad for the Confederates. In \n1649, Cromwell re-enacted here the \n\n11 T^ 1 1 1 /- \xe2\x80\xa2 Selsker Abbey. \n\nslaughter at Urogheda, and confis- \ncated the castle and corporate property. After the Boyne, it declared for William ; \nand, although most peaceable, and not encouraging the organization of the United \nIrishmen, it was goaded into insurrection by the cruelty of government officials, \nand became the centre of the most gallant campaign on record of peasants with- \nout weapons, commanded by priests and gentlemen without military knowledge, \nagainst the ably officered and fully equipped royal army and militia. \n\nWexford town is situated on the Slaney (named after Slainge, chief of the \nFirbolg colony, who landed here thirteen hundred years before the Christian \nera), and is connected on the north with the opposite side of the river by a \nbridge (722 feet), which, with the Causeways, is 1,559 feet long. Upon this \nbridge the "Insurgents" terribly retaliated the atrocities of the royalists in \'98. \nAs in medieval walled towns, the streets are so narrow that even in the Main \nstreet two carriages cannot pass, except in special widenings. Half way in this \nstreet was the bull-ring, a small market place, in which the Cromwellian massacre \ntook place. In the last century the town consisted chiefly of two parallel streets \nwithin and one street without the old wall. A fine range of quays, half a mile \n\n\n\n\nSo6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nSt. Eden\'s Monuinoit. \n\n\n\nin length, and from sixty to eighty feet wide, have been constructed, and many \nother improvements made in town and suburbs. Portions of the old wall and \nfive of the towers are still to be seen, and show that the former was twenty-two \nfeet high, supported on the inside by an earth-rampart twenty-one feet thick. \n\nThe most remarkable of the church \n~-~~^ "^ ruins is that of St. Selsker \xe2\x80\x94 a cor- \n\nruption of St. Sepulchre \xe2\x80\x94 near the \nwest gate, within the wall. It occu- \npies the site of a Danish edifice, and \nwas founded in 1190, under com- \nbined circumstances of faith and \nromance. Young Roche, of Artra- \nmont, being in love with the daugh- \nter of a poor burgess, was sent to join the crusade. Returning from Palestine \nhe found his parents dead, and himself at liberty to crown his early love. Alas, \nhis beloved, hearing he was slain in battle, consecrated her life to prayer and \nentered a convent. Inspired by her truth, the hero also made a vow of celibacy, \nfounded this monaster)^, which he dedicated to the Holy Sepulchre for which he \nhad fought, and became its first prior. It is a memorable spot. Within the older \nprecincts was signed the first treaty with the Anglo-Normans, by which King \nDermot MacMorrough invested them with the lordship of Wexford. Selsker \nAbbey was richly endowed, and its prior a lord of Parliament. It was destroyed \nby Cromwell, who carried off the plate, and sent the fine chime of bells to Chester, \nwhence they were afterward transferred to River Street Church, Liverpool. \n\nAlmost directly across the country, on the western border, is the town of New \nRoss, beautifully situated on the Barrow. It was \nfounded by the daughter of Strongbow, experi- \nenced the iron hand of Cromwell, and was the \nscene of a great contest in \'98. From the heights \npleasant views on all sides are obtained, and a \nsail down the river to Waterford, sixteen miles, \npresents beautiful scenery, which is especially im- \nposing at the confluence of the Barrow and Suir. \nMidway between the towns of Ross and Wex- \nford is the hill of Carrickbyrne, a famous camp of the \'98 patriots. \n\nFrom Wexford to Enniscorthy the country Is often very attractive, generally \nfertile, and frequently adorned by art. There is a road on either side of the \n\n\n\n\nAiiount Font at Ferns \n\n\n\nWEXFORD. \n\n\n\n507 \n\n\n\nSlaney, but the most interesting course is a sail up the river itself, which receives \nmany tributary streams, upon whose banks \xe2\x80\x94 the Banna, for instance \xe2\x80\x94 some \nbeautiful views are found. Two miles northwest of Wexford, and beyond \nArtramont, where there are some venerable cedars of Lebanon, is Ferry-Carrick, \nAvhere the Slaney flows through a narrow channel. On the north side of the \ngorge, rising on a pinnacle, as if a portion of it, is a lofty square tower, generally \nsupposed to be a portion of the first Anglo-Norman castle built in Ireland. \nThere is, however, a doubt thrown upon its identity as a part of Fitz-Stephen\'s \ncastle, which is said to have occupied a site on the opposite bank of the river. \n\nAbove Ferry-Carrick the Slaney spreads into what seems a lake, with richly \nwooded banks, the country rising \ngradually therefrom, backed by the \ndistant mountains of Black-stairs \nand Mount Leinster and White \nMountains \xe2\x80\x94 the conical Sleivebuy \nto the north, and nearer, the his- \ntorical Vinegar Hill, which senti- \nnels the equally historical Ennis- \ncorthy. The latter is a prosperous \ntown which has extended consider- \nably of late years. To facilitate \nthe trade by the Slaney, two quays \nhave been built, and for the better \ningress and egress to and from the \ntown \xe2\x80\x94 the principal part of which reaches along the abrupt banks on either side \n\xe2\x80\x94 level lines of roads have been formed. The Castle, one of the earliest Anglo- \nNorman structures, a square body with round towers at each corner, was built by \nRaymond le Gros. The Roman Catholic Church, designed by Pugin, is an im- \nposing ecclesiastical edifice. The beautiful and rich valley above and below Ennis- \ncorthy and the windings of the river, can be viewed effectively from Vinegar Hill, \na most fertile quartz elevation, nearly four hundred feet high. The town and the \nhill were the scenes of terrible conflicts in \'98. The latter was a great camp \nof the patriots, who, with little arms and less ammunition, were surrounded and \nfinally dislodged by Lieutenant-General Lake, at the head of twenty thousand fully \nequipped troops. Enniscorthy is about in the centre of the county, and north of \nit are the noted towns of Corey and Ferns. The former, although of some \nantiquity, is chiefly remembered as the scene of a battle in \'98 ; the latter, now a \n\n\n\n\nAugustitiian Abbey Ruins. \n\n\n\n5o8 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nsmall and insignificant town, is of great antiquity. The modern Cathedral of St, \nEden, erected in 1816, was built on the site of an ancient church founded by St. \nEden, or Aedan, a. d. 598, to whom there is a finely carved monument \xe2\x80\x94 repre- \nsenting him in full pontificals, his mitre on his head, and his short crozier, \nbaculum, across his breast \xe2\x80\x94 in the present church. Adjoining the church are the \nruins of the Augustinian Monastery, founded by MacMurrough, the remains of \nwhich preserve traces of beaut3^ Here, according to tradition, he lay concealed, \nawaiting the arrival of his allies. Among the few antique relics are a cross in the \n\xe2\x80\xa2 churchyard wall and a font of rude construction among the broken gravestones. \nOn an elevated position over the town are the remains of Ferns Castle, a once \n\nformidable pile, which ranked among the \nmost famous in Ireland, and is yet among \n\' its more interesting military remains. \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 It occupies the site of MacMurroug-h\'s \n\npalace, and was originally erected by \nStrongbow. It was repeatedly destroyed \nand re-edified ; was a royal castle, held \nby a constable, under the Tudors ; was \noccupied by the Irish in 1641, and its \ndemolition was effected by Sir Charles \nCoote, who committed great slaughter \nand permanently ruined the town. The \nremains, with a massive tower entire, \nform a particularly striking feature of \nthe country for many miles around. This \ntower contains a small chapel with a \ngroined roof, the interior of which has \nbeen fitted up within a few years. Among the legends associated with this castle \nis one given by the author of A Tour in Ireland in i 748 \xe2\x80\x94 that Catherine de \nClare, under cover of hospitality, for years committed horrible murders in it, by \ninviting the rich and leading inhabitants, and when they were in the midst of \nmirth pushing them through a trap-door. Mr. Hall says the story is somewhat \nborne out, as Catherine was the wife of Sir Thomas Masterson, Elizabeth\'s con- \nstable at the castle ; " and it is well known," he adds, " that such treacherous out- \nrages were frequently practiced on the native Irish by the English settlers during \nthe reign of \' good Oueen Bess.\' " \n\n\n\n\nFerns Castle. \n\n\n\nSLIGO. \n\n\n\n\nS/igo Abbey \xe2\x80\x94 Cloisters. \n\nThe county of Sligo presents mainly the leading characteristics of Mayo and \nRoscommon, which form respectively its western and southern boundary. It \nhas, however, f^ne features of its own. The surface is varied, having extensive \n\n509 \n\n\n\nSio PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nplains near the sea-coast, backed by lofty mountains. The interior is hilly, inter- \nspersed with streams and lakes. The Ox Mountains extend along the west into- \nMayo, and the whole of the south is rugged, rising into the Curlew Mountains on \nthe Roscommon border. The lakes most remarkable for size are Gill, Arrow, and \nGara. Glencar, with its lonely lake, lies at the southern base of the limestone \nrange of mountains extending from Benbulben to Glenade, the principal sum- \nmits being Benbulben, 1,722 feet; Kings Mountain, 1,965 feet; and Truskmore, \n2,115 f^st above the sea. On the other side of the glen, which is eight miles \nlong, Gullogeaboy Mountain is 1,400 feet high. \n\nExcursions can be made in all directions from the town of Sligo, the county \nseat, and than which no town in the kingdom enjoys more diversified, more beau- \ntiful, or more improved surroundings. From it \xe2\x80\x94 owing to the excellent roads \nrecently constructed \xe2\x80\x94 almost every point of interest is accessible. Sligo town \nowed its foundation to the erection of a castle by one of the early Norman lords, \nMaurice Fitzgerald, in 1242. Ten years subsequently he erected the famous- \nabbey, the foundation of which is sometimes credited to O\'Connor Sligo, who \nwas a liberal benefactor to it. The town is situated on an arm of the sea, five \nmiles from the Atlantic, in a deep valley, nearly surrounded b}\' hills and moun- \ntains of a remarkable character. It is divided by the river Garrogue, which \nconnects Lough Gill with the ocean. Fraser thinks Sligo presents a more \nbusiness appearance than any other town in Connaught, owing to the spirit and \nenterprise of its traders. In the older parts of the town the streets are narrow \nand ill-paved, but in the new, convenient markets and stores have been erected \nand the quays greatly improved. Among the striking buildings is the new Town- \nHall, in the modern Italian style. It contains the borough court; and our view \nof it was taken during the trial of three prominent Land League reformers \xe2\x80\x94 \nMichael Davitt, James Daly, and John B. Killen \xe2\x80\x94 which accounts for the multi- \ntudinous gathering of people in the neighborhood. \n\nThe abbey in its original form was destroyed by fire in 141 4, and soon after \nrebuilt in the style of which we have the remains. It is a splendid ruin, of very large \ndimensions, divided into several apartments. The first has a beautiful window \nof carved stone, under which is the altar, likewise of cut stone. Here are two \nancient monuments \xe2\x80\x94 one bearing date 1616, and the other belonging to one of \nthe O\'Connor kings. The latter is in good preservation; at the top is repre- \nsented the Saviour on the cross, and below, in separate compartments, are the \nkneeling figures of O\'Connor and his wife, in the act of supplication. The \nsteeple\' is still entire, supported upon a carved arch, the inside of which is also \n\n\n\nSLIGO. \n\n\n\n5" \n\n\n\ncarved. Adjoining tiiis are the cloisters, three sides of a square of beautifully \n\ncarved little arches, of about four feet in height. Almost all the pillars are \n\ndifferently ornamented, and one in particular is very unlike the rest, having a \n\nh u m a n head \n\non the inside \n\nof the arch. \nTwo miles \n\nsouth east of \n\nSligo is the \n\nromantic and \n\nbeautiful \n\nLough Gill, \n\ncontaining \n\nmany wooded \n\nislands of all \n\ndimensions, \n\non the largest \nof which \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nChurch Island \n\xe2\x80\x94 are some \nin teresting \nruins. From \nthe water\'s \nedge of the \nsouthern \nshores of the \nlake the rug- \nged gneiss \nmountains of \nSlieve Daeane \nand Slish ab- \nruptly rise to \nan elevatioi \nof about 870 \n\nfeet, their steep acclivities covered with plantations. Gill, with all its beauties, \nIS nearly embraced within the grand demesne of Hazelwood. On the peninsula \nbetween Sligo and Ballysadare is Knocknarea, 1,078 feet above the bay, whose \n\n\n\n\nSligo Abbey \xe2\x80\x94 Nave and Choir. \n\n\n\n512 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nwaters nearly lave its base. Rising solitary and smooth, its flat top crowned \nwith a sepulchral tumulus, it is a strong contrast to the rugged mountains around. \nFrom the summit a magnificent view is obtained \xe2\x80\x94 inland as far as the lofty heads \nof Croagh Patrick and Nephin, and seaward from the Stags of Broadhaven to the \n\nstupendous cliffs \nof Slieve League. \nAt the southern \nbase is the glen \nof Knocknarea, a \nchasm three-quar- \nters of a mile in \nlength, thirty feet \nwide, with perpen- \ndicular walls forty \nfeet high. Plan- \ntations on the top, \nand indigenous \ntrailing plants \nand ferns on the \nvertical sides, add \nto its naturally \nweird character. \n\nOn the road to \nBallyshannon, \nfour miles from \nSligo town, is \nDrumcliffe, with \nits ancient crosses \nand remains of a \nround tower. \nNear Ballysadere \nis a church into \nwhich has been \n\nbuilt some portions of an ancient temple of a highly ornamental character. On \nInnismurry, thirteen miles from Sligo and five from land, are numerous early \nChristian edifices, erected on pagan ruins ; and numerous sculptured stones with \nthe oriental combination of the circle and the cross. \n\n\n\n\nTown-Hall, Sligo. \n\n\n\n\nCojij-riglil, 1813 by ILomas.IieUy, H\xc2\xabw lurk. \n\n\n\nl\xc2\xa71114Ii \n\n\n\nIms7ioiccn ITfl.-^r\'^t\' Pf ITo \n\n\n\n\nCopyriflil, 1S78, by Tlioumt Kolly, Nuw York. \n\n\n\nDONEGAL. \n\n\n\n\nDonenxl Castle. \n\n\n\nDonegal, the most western of the three northern counties of Ireland, is un- \nsurpassed in wild beauty of mountain, glen and lake, while its coast presents \nsome of the finest cliff scenery in the world. It also possesses great sources of \ninterest for the antiquary, as well as for the geologist and botanist. Geographic- \nally the county is almost a peninsula, fully four-fifths of its outline being washed \nby the Atlantic Ocean, whose waves break on the cliffs with unceasing splendor, \nand pour into numerous inlets, estuaries, bays and loughs along its marvellously \nindented coast. It is suggested that the clearest idea of the physical conforma- \ntion of the county maybe gained by consulting the maps and fixing on a chain of \n\n513 \n\n\n\n514 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nmountains, extending from the south, near Lough Derg, northward to Bloody \nForeland, as forming a backbone to it. In this chain are the greatest elevations \nand the deepest passes in the Donegal highlands, the highest points being Barnes- \nmore (1,491 feet), Bluestack (2,219 feet), Aghla (1,953 feet), Slieve Snaght \n(2,240 feet), and Errigal (2,466 feet). At the eastern extremity of the pass \nof Barnesmore is Lough Mourne, the descending waters from the mountains on \nthe western extremity being gathered into Lough Esk. To the north of the Gap \nare the Croaghgorm or Bluestack Mountains, a noble group, drained on the east \nby the Reelan, a tributary of the Finn, and on the west by the Eany-more and \nEany-beg, which seek the sea at Inver. To the west the Binbane range runs to \nthe ocean, and ends in the magnificent precipice of Slieve League (1,964 feet), \nbetween Carrigan and Teelin Heads, and over which is the perilous ridge called \nOne Man\'s Path. The main chain northward is cut by another pass, parallel \nto the Gap of Barnesmore, in which is Lough Finn, over whose dark waters \nAghla rises precipitously. The river Finn, issuing from the eastern extremity \nof the lake, drains an extensive highland district on its way to Stranorlar, is \njoined by the Mourne at Lifford, where it spreads out into the Foyle, and thence \nflows, "a majestic stream," to Derry. Close and parallel to the pass of Lough \nFinn is another, which intersects the country from Gweebarra Bay to Sheep- \nhaven. Above Lough Barra, where the Glendowan Mountains and Slieve \nSnaght almost meet, at the point where the watershed is attained, begins the \ndeep Glen Veagh, which, emerging from the Derryveagh and Doorish ranges \n(2,143 feet), opens into the valley of the Owencarrow. The Glendowan Moun- \ntains, going off in a southeasterly direction from the Derryveagh range, makes \nan angle, at the base of which lies the beautiful Lough Gartan. North of the \ngreat pass of the Gweebarra and Glen Veagh is another, between the northern \nside of Slieve Snaght and Errigal, and running, like the others, from northeast \nto southwest. The valley is drained on the east by the Culabbar, north of which \nare Aghla-mor, Aghla-beg, and Muckish (2,197 feet), which, declining to the \nNorth, breaks off into the abrupt and grand precipice of Horn Head. West- \nward are Loughs Dunlewy and Nacung, guarded by Errigal and a mountain \nridge that stretches also to the ocean, and terminates in the Bloody Foreland. \n\nEntering the county at Lifford, the chief town, excursions can be made to all \nthe points of attraction north, west and south. Pursuing the route up the valley \nof the Finn, we pass Raphoe (a few miles from which is Convoy, the birthplace \nof the revolutionary patriot general, Richard Montgomery) to Stranorlar, and \nthence to the Gap of Barnesmore, the most magnificent defile perhaps in Ireland. \n\n\n\nDONEGAL. 515 \n\nThe grandeur of its proportions at once arrests the attention. It is more than \nthree miles in length, cutting right across a mountain range, shut in by threat- \nening walls of rock, that on the north \xe2\x80\x94 Croaghconnellagh \xe2\x80\x94 being 1,724 feet \nhigh, and the south \xe2\x80\x94 Barnesmore \xe2\x80\x94 1,491 feet. The steep escarpments at \nsome points run into beetling cliffs, at others are furrowed by rents, dark and \nghastly, cut by the mountain torrents. The absence of trees produces a desolate \neffect in the pass without lessening its sublimity. The wilder characteristics are \nsomewhat modified by the vegetation, grass, purple heather and golden furze, \nwhich clothe the sides, producing a rich variety of those beautiful hues which are \nonly to be caught in mountain scenery. On the right are the ruins of a small fort- \nalice, the possession of which must have been of great importance, commanding \nthe only route through which the O\'Donnells and O\'Neills passed in their warlike \nexcursions. In this house Rapin, the Huguenot historian, is said to have com- \npiled his voluminous history. Emerging from the gap we have a view of Lough \nEsk, with its extended woods, in which the red deer is still to be found. The \ngradually descending road leads to the town of Donegal, beautifully situated at the \ninland extremity of Donegal Bay, where it receives the waters of the Esk. The \nscanty remains of the Franciscan Abbey, founded in 1474 by Nuala, the wife of \nHugh Roe O\'Donnell, are of classic interest. It had already suffered by warfare \nand pillage, when a fire broke out on the 19th September, 1601, which occasion \nwas seized by the then O\'Donnell for an assault to drive out the English, who, \nunder his cousin, Nial Garv, had occupied it. The monastery never recovered \nthe ruin of that event. After some years, when the war between O\'Donnell and \nthe English ceased, the monks crept back from their hiding-places and established \nthemselves in houses built from and among the ruins of their monastery; and \nunder this shelter was compiled the celebrated "Annals of the Four Masters," \nwhich, in the words of O\'Curry, "mus.t awaken feelings of interest and respect, \nnot only as the largest collection of national, civil, military and family history \never brought together in this, or perhaps any other, country, but also as the final \nwinding up of the affairs of a people who had preserved their nationality and in- \ndependence for a space of over two thousand years,, till their complete overthrow, \nabout the time at which this work was compiled." \'\xe2\x96\xa0\'\' \n\nA short distance from the abbey are the remains of Donegal Castle, the \n\n* The chief of the "Four Masters" was Michael O\'Cleary, of the Franciscan Order, and his collaborators were \nFerfessius O\'Maelchonaire, Peregrine or Cugory O\'Dubhghennain, men of consummate learning and of approved faith, \nand to these subsequently was added the cooperation of other distinguished antiquarians. The worli consisted of 11,000 \nquarto pages, beginning with the year of the world 2242, ending with the year of our Lord 1616 \xe2\x80\x94 thus covering the im- \nmense space of 4,500 years of a nation\'s liistory. See O\'Curry\'s Lectui-es, VII. \n\n\n\n5i6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nancient seat of the O\'Donnells, which was given by royal grant in 1601 to Sir \nBasil Brooke, by whom it was improved into " a beautiful Elizabethan building, \ncombining defensive with domestic purposes." \n\nThe most important town in the southern district is Ballyshannon, through \nwhich the great body of water from Lough Erne flows, and pours its tribute to \nthe sea in a fine waterfall over a ledge of rocks ten feet above ordinary tide level. \nBundoran, a few miles west, and the extreme southern point of the county, is \nthe most celebrated watering place on the whole northwest coast of Ireland. The \nsandy beach is extensive, and the surrounding country most interesting. Lough \nDerg and the celebrated penitential retreat, St. Patrick\'s Purgatory, may be \n\nreached from \n\n^ ^" -\' Donegal or \n\n_\xe2\x80\x94=^ \xe2\x80\x94 ^S=-\xe2\x80\x94 Ballyshannon. \n\nji^Sj ^ ^ By the latter \n\nroute fine views \nof Lough Erne \nare obtained, \nand the tourist \nwill have an op- \npo r tu nity of \nvisiting the de- \nmesne of Brown- \nhall and seeing \nThe Pullens, a \nremarkable \nnatural wonder. \n\nIt is a dark ravine, nearly a mile in length, deeply shaded with woods, through \nwhich a mountain torrent plunges and flashes, in a series of cascades, amidst a \nprofusion of ferns and mountain plants ; now turning an acute angle and disap- \npearing under a cavernous arch, then reappearing beyond ; anon flowing out a \nplacid stream, only to lose itself suddenly in a dark chasm sixty feet deep, from \nwhich it emerges under a natural bridge. As S. C. Hall said, description can but \nfaintly convey its extraordinary character, nor can the artist represent its singular \nbeauties. The town of Pettigo is situated on the southern border of a wild and \ndesolate mountain region, in which, some four miles to the north, lies Lough Derg, \nits waters expanding in highland solitude amidst a wild waste of moors. Near \nPettigo are the remains of the ancient fort or keep of Myler Magrath, an apostate \n\n\n\n\nLiima I y/i \n\n\n\nDONEGAL. \n\n\n\nS17 \n\n\n\n\n\nGrianati of Aileach \xe2\x80\x94 Exterior. \n\n\n\n\nBishop of Down, who was made Bishop of Clogher by Elizabeth in 1570. Since \n1782 the care of the Lough Derg pilgrimage has been exercised by priests of the \ndiocese of Clogher, and in 1880 \n\nthe bishop, Dr. Donnelly, com- ^^^ 3=^ \n\nmenced the building of an hos- i" -"= ~ \n\npice on Station Island, for the \xe2\x80\xa2 ^^ \n\nbetter accommodation of the / \n\npilgrims. His title to do so \nwas contested by Sir John \nLeslie, who claimed the pro- \nprietary over the island, as \nwell as the bed of the lough \nover which the hospice pro- \njected. An unhappy source \nof permanent excitement and \nill-feeling seemed impending, \nbut was happily averted in \n1 88 1 by Sir John Leslie giving \na lease forever of the part \ncovered by the projection, and withdrawing all claim to Station Island itself. \n\nLetterkenny, the gate to \nJ^- \xe2\x96\xa0 the Donegal Highlands, the \n\nsecond town of the county, is \nbuilt on a hillside overlook- \ning a large expanse of coun- \ntry. It was here that Theo- \nbald Wolfe Tone was arrested \nafter the defeat of the French \nfleet in October, 1798, having \nbeen recognized by a former \nfellow student at a breakfast \ngiven to the French officers \nby Lord Cavan. To the north \nis Killmacrenan, the foster- \nplace of St. Columbkill, where \nhe founded an abbey, which \n\n\n\n\nGrianan \xe2\x80\x94 Bird \'s-eye View. \n\n\n\nendured for a^es. At a short distance is the Rock of Doon, the inauguration \n\n\n\n518 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nplace of the chiefs of Tirconnell. When the investiture took place the O\'Don- \nnell was attended to this rock by the successor of St. Columbkill, and his marshal, \nand surrounded by the estates of the countr)-. Putting a pure white, unknotted \nrod into his hand, the abbot said : " Receive, sire, the auspicious ensign of your \ndignity, and remember to imitate in your government the whiteness, straightness \nand unknottiness of this rod, to the end that no evil tongue may find cause to \nasperse the candor of your actions with blackness, nor any kind of corruption or \ntie of friendship be able to pervert your justice ; therefore, in a lucky hour, take \nthe government of this people, to exercise the power given you with freedom and \nsecurity." Among the people, "time out of mind," the interior of the Rock has \nbeen esteemed as the headquarters of the fairies ; a cave in the eastern side being \n\nregarded as the vestibule \nto an immense chamber, \nwhich is the council hall \nof "the good people." \n\nThe bold and large pe- \nninsula of Inishowen, from \nposition, elevation and ex- \ntent, is decidedly the most \nremarkable natural object \non the northern shore. It \nlies between Lough Swilly \nand Lough Foyle, and \ncontains 197,860 acres. \nThe larger part of the centre is occupied by mountains, the highest summit, that \nof Sleive Snaght East, being 2,019 feet above the sea. A trip over the peninsula \nor around Its coast roads, with the admirable books The Donegal Highlands and \nDoyle\'s Toui-s in Ulster convenient, will prove full of interest. Going northward \nto Inishowen, or returning from it, the tourist must not omit visiting one of the \nmost famous of the pagan antiquities of Ireland, the Grianan of Aileach, long the \nchief residence of the princes of the northern Hy-NIall. Its erection is attributed \nto the Tuath-de-Danans, and It stands on the summit of a hill 802 feet high, over- \nlooking Lough Swilly on one side, and southward commanding the view far over \nthe green slopes of the Laggan. " A broad, ancient road, between two ledges of \nnatural rock, leads to the summit. Following this road three consecutive ramparts \nmust be passed through before you reach the cashel, or keep of the fortress. \nTraces of other external ramparts have been discovered, although in a state of \n\n\n\n\nCastle of Myler Magrath, overlooking Lough Erne. \n\n\n\nDONEGAL. \n\n\n\n519 \n\n\n\ngreat dilapidation. Upon a close inspection this castle will be found to be a \ncircular wall enclosing an area of 77 feet 6 inches in diameter." \xe2\x80\x94 Ordnance Memoir \nof Londonderry. It is a cyclopean structure. Within the thickness of the wall, \nbeginning on either side of the entrance, are three galleries or platforms, ascended \nby side stone steps. The interior view of this fort shows its ground-plan. The \noutermost enclosure on the hill contains five and a half acres ; the second, four \nacres ; and the third, one acre. Within the cashel there is about one-fourth of \nan acre. For years this remarkable monument of ancient days was neglected, \nbut it has been restored on the lines of the original foundation ; and a full account \nof it was read by Dr. Bernard before the Royal Irish Academy in 1878. Gri- \nanan is held by Irish lexicographers to mean "a royal seat," and "a summer \nhouse, or " sunny chamber," \nand Aileach, a " stone house." \nIt is certain that this place \nwas the principal palace of \nthe northern Irish kings from \nthe earliest period to a. d. \niioi, when it was destroyed \nby Murtaugh O\'Brien, king \nof Munster, in revenge for \nthe destruction of Kinkora \nin 1088, by Donnel Mac- \nLoughlin in asserting his \nclaim to the monarchy of Ire- \nland as representative of the northern Hy-Niall. A familiar northern legend is \nthat a troop of Hugh O\'Neill\'s horse, fully armed and holding their bridles in \ntheir hands, are in a magic sleep in a cave under Aileach, waiting to have the \nspell removed to rush to the aid of their country. \n\nMalin Head, the most northern point of Ireland, is the extremity of Inish- \nowen. It is eight miles from the neat little town of Malin ; and, rising only 226 \nfeet above the sea, it is rendered remarkable by the admiralty signal tower. \nAlthough not possessing the general wild magnificence of the Donegal coast line, \nMalin Head is picturesque even in calm weather, and when the sea is impelled \nby a storm around it, the scene is truly grand. \n\n\n\n\nDonegal Castle \xe2\x80\x94 From Below. \n\n\n\nCAVAN. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nOld Mill. \n\n\n\nThe inland county of Cavan was the an- \ncient principality of East Brefne, or Brefne \nO\'Reilly. It contains no exceptionally fine \nfeatures, but was celebrated in the wars for \nthe fastnesses formed by its woods, lakes and \nbogs, which gave shelter and security to its \nnative possessors. It was one of the Ulster \ncounties formed in 1584 by the lord deputy, \nSir John Perrot, and derived its name from \nthe principal seat of its native rulers, which, \nsituated in the centre of a rich tract, is still \nthe chief town. The surface of the county \nis mainly like that of Monaghan, undulating \nwith small hills and valleys. Its principal \nInterest is in being the cradle of the great \nriver Shannon, which rises in the barony of \nTullyhaw, parish of Templeport, townland of Derrylaghan, at the head of a wild \ndistrict called Glangavelin, and in the valley between Cuilcagh and Langanacal- \nlagh Mountains, close to the base of the former. The source or spring is of a \ncircular form, about 50 feet in diameter, called the Shannon Pot, or more gen- \nerally, Leigmonshena. The water boils up in the centre, and yields a continued \nstream about eight feet wide and two feet deep in the driest season, Avhich runs \nfour miles an hour. In rainy weather it overflows its banks and all low grounds \nin the vicinity. There are many caverns and clefts on the top and sides of Cuil- \ncagh which receive the rain ; and, as no streams descend, the drainage of the \nmountain and its subterranean springs combined form an outlet here, and give \nbirth to the Shannon. Two miles from its source it receives the Owenmore, and \nseven miles farther on, having gathered its tributaries and swelled to a con- \nsiderable river of fifty to sixty yards wide, with a varying depth of from five to \nten feet, it enters Lough Allen in force. Its onward course has been indicated in \n\nthe article on Leitrim, of which, after leaving Lough Allen, it becomes a boundary. \n\n520 \n\n\n\n\nCopjTigUt, 1882, by Tliuujas Kellj-, New York. \n\n\n\n\nCoi>j-Tlght,1879, by Thomas Kelly, New York. \n\n\n\nWATERFORD. \n\n\n\n\nCromlech at Knockecn. \n\n\n\nThe district now embraced by the maritime county of Waterford was desig- \nnated by Ptolemy as the home of the Menapii, a tribe which also occupied Wex- \nford. Prior to the seventh century small tracts of the most southern coast are \ndesignated by other names ; but these appear to have merged, at an early period, \ninto that of Decies, from the preponderating influence of the Desii or Decii, a \ntribe that finally occupied the central and larger portion of the county at the \ntime of the Anglo-Norman invasion. In the twelfth century the chiefs of the \ntribe took the name of O\'Feolain, and Melaghlin O\'Feolain, prince of the Decii, \nwas made prisoner at the siege of Waterford by Strongbow, and was only saved \nfrom death by the mediation of MacMurrough. He was the last chief who \nenjoyed the full powers of his predecessors ; but although Raymond le Gros \noverran and depopulated their territory, and the Poers, who had been given the \ncustody of the greater portion of it, in ii 77, had waged sanguinary warfare on the \n\n521 \n\n\n\n522 \n\n\n\nPICTURE SO UE IRE LA ND. \n\n\n\npeople, the political existence of the Decii was not at once terminated, as in the \ninterval between 1169 and 1206 the deaths of three of their kings are recorded. \nA charter of King John to the citizens in 1206 shows that the territory of Water- \nford had been already erected into a county, the justices of assize and other \nofficers of which were inhibited from exercising any authority in the city. This \nfact controverts, as Lewis ( Topographical Dictionary) says, the generally received \nopinion that the first counties were formed by John in 12 10. \n\nThe surface of the county is largely mountainous, and the valleys, watered \nas they are by the Suir, the Blackwater, the Bride, and others of lesser note, \npicturesque and beautiful. The principal mountain ranges are Knockmeledown, \nwhich divides Cork, Tipperary, and Waterford ; the Cummeragh and Monevullagh, \nwhich divides the count}^ Into almost equal parts ; and Drum, southwest of Dun- \n\ngarvan Bay. The Suir, which \n^^ rises In Tipperary, forms a great \n\npart of the northern, and its \nestuary the whole of the eastern \nboundary of the county. The \nBlackwater enters the county \nfrom Cork at Its western ex_ \ntremlty, and turning southward \nat Cappoquin, falls into Youghal \nBay. The beauty of the Black- \nwater cannot be portrayed by \npen or pencil. Many think It \nunrivaled among Irish rivers, \nand Mr. Inglis does not think \nIt surpassed by the descents of the Danube, the Rhine or the Rhone. It \nmust be seen to be appreciated, and, In addition to numerous boats which ply at \nall times on It, the summer tourist can take advantage of the steamer which \nmakes daily trips from Youghal to Cappoquin. Two miles above Youghal the \nestuary of the Blackwater assumes the river character. The breadth of the river, \nthe height of its banks, which are either covered with woods or adorned with \nruins, or cultivated lands, demesnes and castles, the depth and romantic char- \nacter of its lateral glens, enlivened by sparkling streams, all combine to render \nthe embouchure and tidal part of the Blackwater remarkably attractive. A short \ndistance from the bridge at Ferrypoint, on a bold, rocky eminence, is the ruins \nof RInorew Castle, formerly belonging to the Knights Templars. Farther on is \n\n\n\n\nUp the Blackwater \xe2\x80\x94 Rincrew. \n\n\n\n\nWA TERFORD. 523 \n\nthe glen of Glendlne. In the charming grounds at Ballinatray are the ruins of \nMolana Abbey, where Raymond le Gros was buried. At Strancally the waters \nof the Bride unite with the Blackwater. Here was one of the Desmonds" \nstrongholds, which had, it is said, a subterranean passage, in which their enemies \nwere entrapped and destroyed. One person escaped, and, proclaiming the in- \nfamy, the castle and cave were destroyed. The new castle, a few miles distant, is \na beautiful structure, rising gradually from the water\'s edge. On the opposite \nbank, near Villiarstown, which is a steamer station, is the magnificent forest of \nDromana, one of the finest and most extensive demesnes in Ireland. Here was \nborn Catherine, the famous Countess of Desmond, who, at the age of one hun- \ndred and forty years, went to London to demand of James I. the restoration of \nher fortune, of which she had been deprived by the attainder of the last Earl \nof Desmond. Her death was \nsaid to have been caused by a \nfall from a cherry tree, into \nwhich she had climbed. It was \nbrought by Raleigh from the \nCanary Islands, and was the \nfirst planted in Ireland. \n\nCappoquin, seventeen miles \nfrom Youghal, at the turn of \nthe river where it sweeps round \nfrom Lismore, is finely situated \nin the valley of the Blackwater, \nand is the commencement of ip Hu Bi,u..jo\\,~-Strancaiiy. \n\nthe most beautiful part of it. \n\nAs we approach, and for a considerable distance on the river, the rich verdure of \nthe banks is picturesquely contrasted by the effect of the Knockmeledown Moun- \ntains looming in front, the southern acclivities of which becoming more distinct \nas one advances, seem almost to reach the water\'s edge in the lovely spot in \nwhich Cappoquin is situated, and which formerly commanded the pass of the \nBlackwater. \n\nAbout three miles to the north, in the centre of a vast bog and moory tract, \nwhich continues to rise back to the higher peaks, is Mount Melleray, or the Abbey \nof St. Bernard la Trappe ; and the tourist on the Blackwater should no more \nmiss visiting it than wayfarers on the Alps pass the doors of Mount St. Bernard. \nIt is easily reached in less than an hour by the new road from Cappoquin over \n\n\n\n\n524 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthe mountains into Tipperary ; and the reminiscences of a recent visit will perhaps \nexcite interest sufficient to suggest a personal examination by travellers who \nmight otherwise be satisfied with a distant view of its exterior rising among the \nmountain tops. \n\nThis oasis, literally flowing with milk and honey, in the desert of morass and \nmountain, has a wonderful history. In the first fury of the French revolution of \n1830 the monks of La Trappe were expelled from their home and found a refuge \nin Ireland. A vast tract of moorland at the base of the Knockmeledown Hills \nlay at the time utterly barren, given up to rocks and heather, and to all seem- \ning hopelessly irreclaimable. Some fifteen hundred acres of this unpromising \n\nmoorland were \n\n^^^ \'W=I^^ granted at a shil- \n\nril^^"^^^ ""^ ^\\ ling an acre to the \n\n-^. - homeless monks \n\n^ by Sir Richard \n\nKeane, the father \nof the present pro- \nprietor of Cappo- \nquin. How they \ntoiled and dugand \ncleared through \n-= long years, till \n\nthey created a fer- \ntile soil on the bare rocks, and made fields bloom \nwhere the heather hardly found nourishment \nbefore, only those can imagine who remember it \nas a wilderness, the very approach to which was \na toilsome path over hills, almost impassable for \nhorses, and constantly torn by fierce mountain floods. When the monks came, \nit would scarcely feed a goat ; now the tilled portion is like a gentleman\'s de- \nmesne. \n\nLooking at the remnants of this old road to-day, when engineering has sup- \nplied a new and pleasant one around the base of the hill, the simple labors of the \nmonks in dragging the lime for their reclamation works, and the stones for their \nbuildings, up the rocky gullet seems incredible. In time the community got the \nchance of purchasing, in the Landed Estates\' Court, the fee-simple of the prop- \nerty which their unceasing industry had created, and ever since they have gone \n\n\n\n\nUp the Blackwater \xe2\x80\x94 Knockmeledown \nin the Distance. \n\n\n\nJFA TERFORD. \n\n\n\n525 \n\n\n\non, flourishing, and building, and improving, until to-day there are smiling crops \nor meadows covering their little estate, and in a thick shelter of trees has arisen \na, group of buildings which revive at once the traditions of Irish hospitality, piety \nand learning. The monastery forms a quadrangle, three sides of which are occu- \npied by the cells, the refectory and reception-room, used for the accommodation \nof the community and of visitors, and the college buildings, while the fourth is \nclosed by the pretty convent chapel. The community who originally came to \nIreland have been succeeded year after year by fresh accessions, and upwards of \na hundred brethren, about thirty of whom are priests, and most of them Irishmen, \nnow carry on the various functions of the institution under the government of \na Lord Abbot. The discipline of the Order of La Trappe is perhaps the most \nrigorous of all the \nCatholic institutes. \nSelf-mortification is \nenforced even in the \ncase of the little \nweaknesses which \nwe are accustomed \nto regard as most \nnatural and least \nsinful, and all our \npet follies are exer- \ncised with a stern \nvigor from which \npoor human nature \n"would Infallibly \n\nshrink were it not supported by the most heroic constancy. Yet to see those \ncheerful, healthy brethren, who can neither talk, nor eat, nor sleep In the manner \nof other men, one cannot fail to recognize the Inspiring strength, if not attraction \nof the system which sustains them and builds their tranquil happiness on the \nconquest of human passion. \n\nSix hours\' sleep is the single relaxation of their day, if we except the time \nconsumed in their scanty meals ; all the rest goes in labor and In prayer. Up as \nthe clock strikes at two o\'clock In the morning, in summer and in winter alike, \nwhether the stars be shining or the rain pelting, or the snow freezing one\'s bones, \nthey give themselves up to prayer in the first instance, and for hours the mass- \nbell keeps eternally ringing, while the monks, in their long serge dresses and \n\n\n\n\n\nAX^"-!. \n\n\n\n\nMount Melhray. \n\n\n\n526 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nheavy cowls, and such of the sleepy strangers as please, gather round the altars. \nat which twenty or thirty masses are celebrated daily. Then, while the birds are \nyet asleep in the trees, and oftentimes before a glimmer of daylight is in the sky. \n\n\n\n.^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\nMount Mt:lU-ray Chapel. \n\n\n\nthe entire community, priests as well as lay brothers, hasten to their labors within \ndoors or without. Most of them are occupied in the fields or about the farm. \n\n\n\nWA TERFORD. \n\n\n\n527 \n\n\n\nThey do everything for themselves. They plow, they mow, they hay, they rear \nthe vegetables, they manage the dairy, and produce cheese, and cream, and butter \nof the most exquisite flavor atid freshness. Others manufacture bread that seems \nto taste better than any other bread in the world. Others manage the house- \nhold ; others look after the comfort of the visitors. Others, again \xe2\x80\x94 men of dis- \ntinguished talent and vast erudition \xe2\x80\x94 constitute the corps of professors who \nconduct the college attached to the monastery, wherein a hundred students assem- \nble from all parts of Ireland, Great Britain, France, and even America. \n\nSo the day passes with work and prayer, and not a word spoken from sunrise \nto sunset among the workers. Surely this is the hardest ordeal of all \xe2\x80\x94 this per- \npetual silence, which (in the eyes of human vanity, at least) is worse than death. \nOf course the brethren are exempted \n\nwho are told off to receive and enter- -i \xe2\x80\x94 jl^-jL:^ \n\ntain visitors (and who, by the way, \n\nwhen they do speak, speak with an ^ \n\neasy and graceful familiarity as re- V \' /Jft> \xc2\xa3&- \n\nmote as anything can be from the ^ \ntypical gloom of the recluse). The \ncollege professors are also at liberty \nto perform their functions with all \nthe necessary freedom of speech, and \nspecial arrangements apply to the or- \ndinary business of the house ; but for \nall the rest the rule is inexorable \xe2\x80\x94 \nthe silence of the grave, unless when \nthey pray or chant God\'s praises. But \n\nlet not the record of these ascetic severities frighten the reader into the belief \nthat he must go to Mount Melleray in sackcloth and ashes, and discipline his face \ninto a moody or lugubrious cast. \n\nIt must not be omitted that for the "guests," of which there are always \nseveral at the abbey, the most comfortable accommodation is provided \xe2\x80\x94 with \nsubstantial and abundant food. Visitors of all denominations are welcomed with \ngenerous hospitality, and, as the one so freely quoted has written, "you will be \nentertained right royally as long as you wish to stay ; the whole working of the \nestablishment laid open to your inspection and cheerfully explained \xe2\x80\x94 you may \npass week after week there, till the diet and the breezes have braced your nerves \nto iron, and may go away after all without receiving the most delicate insinuation \n\n\n\n\n^-Jl^:. \n\n\n\nWeir at Lisinore. \n\n\n\n528 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthat your entertainment has cost you anything." The library in Mount Melleray \ncontains two noticeable manuscripts: one, illuminated, written in Latin on vellum \nby St. Bernard seven hundred years ago, is in perfect condition, and likely to \nlast centuries yet. The other, a psalter of a thousand pages, is printed with the \npen by a monk of Melleray named Ryan, who had been a sailor, and brother to \n\na former abbot of this \nabbey. \n\nThe mountain summits \nof the range rising behind \nMount Melleray are all \ndistinguished by the pre- \nfix Knock. Knockmele- \ndown, the highest, is \n2,609 ^^^t in height ; and \nthe others, which lie \naround it in the order \ngiven, are Knockanask, \n1,591; Knocknafallia, \n2,199; Knockanare, 2,149; \nand Knocknastorkin, \n2,084 fs^t. \n\nFrom Cappoquin to \nLismore the road lies \nthrough noble demesnes \nand fine plantations, that \nat Salter-bridge contain- \ning some of the most ven- \nerable evergreen oaks in \nthe kingdom, and all sup- \nplying delightful sylvan \nscenery along the left \nbank of the Blackwater. All the views at and about Lismore are strikingly \nbeautiful ; and the view of the little town itself, from the bridge by which we ap- \nproach it, not second to any in the district. The Blackwater above, as below the \nbridge, flows through one of the most verdant valleys, wide enough to show its \ngreenness and fertility, and diversified by noble single trees and groups, while in \nsome places the banks are thickly covered with foliage. Then there is the bridge \n\n\n\n\nOn the Way to the Sicir. \n\n\n\nWA TERFORD. \n\n\n\n529 \n\n\n\n\nSt. Declan\'s Well. \n\n\n\nitself, with a central arch of 100 feet span ; the castle, with Its Ivy-grown towers ; \nand the deep-wooded lateral dells that carry to the Blackwater its tributary \nstreams. Nothing, says a lover of the picturesque, can surpass in richness and \nbeauty the view from the \nbridofe, when, at evening, \nthe deep woods, and the \ngrey castle, and the still \nriver are left In shade, while \nthe sun streaming up the val- \nley gilds all the softer slopes \nand swells that lie opposite. \nLIsmore is a place of high \nantiquity, and the castle, \nwhich rises from a steep \nrock Immediately over the \nriver, one of the best pre- \nserved baronial edifices in the country. Robert Boyle, the philosopher, was \nborn in It (,1626-7), and William Congreve, the dramatist, it is said, was born in \nthe town. Mr. Hall thinks the prospect from the castle "sublime to a degree" ; \nthe mighty mountains on either side of the winding river ; and Immediately \nbeneath, the thick foliage of gigantic trees overhanging It ; while here and \nthere, both above and below it, the eye falls upon a salmon weir, forming a \n\nkind of artificial cataract, the \nA distant murmur of which adds \n\nJm a lulling softness to the beauty \n\n^ of the scene. \n\nBefore proceeding up the \nBlackwater from Youghal, the \ntourist may cross the long \nbridge and visit some points \nof peculiar interest on the \nWaterford side of the river. \nThe fishing village of Ard- \nmore, anciently an episcopal \nsee, is six miles distant. The Round Tower and several ecclesiastical remains \nattest Its antiquity. St. \' Declan founded a religious establishment here In the \nvery Infancy of the Christian era, and his well is still highly venerated \n\n\n\n\nRoitnd Tower at Ardniore. \n\n\n\n530 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nThe Round Tower, a very fine specimen, is in some particulars unique. It is \nbuilt of elaborately cut stone ; the circumference at the base is forty-five feet, \nthe entrance thirteen feet above the ground, and the storeys are exteriorly indi- \ncated by beltings. The villages of Aglish and Clashmore, situated low down in \na valley running parallel to the Blackwater, pleasantly diversify this romantic tract \nof hilly\' country. From Ardmore a road leads to Dungarvan, the second town \nof the county, situated on the bay of the same name, and on a point of land \nbetween the estuaries of the Bricky and the Calligan. It was a place of strength, \nand vestiges of its old walls and of an abbey and fortifications remain. The \ntown is a place of considerable resort in the bathing season. \n\nA bone cave at Shandon, near Dungarvan, discovered some twenty-three years \n\nago, was the first Irish cave which pro- \n,- r--- duced animal , remains belonging to the \n\n,=="" _ pleistocene period. In it were found \n\nremains of the mammoth, horse, bear, \nwolf, and reindeer. Another cave, dis- \ncovered near Cappoquin, in 1879, ^^ <^f \nlarge size, and appears to have been \noccupied at a very remote period by \nbears, portions of whose skeletons are to \nbe met with in the lower deposits of the \nfloor. The chief interest in this discovery \nrests in the fact that remains of the great \nIrish elk {Alcgaceros Hibernicus) were \nfound in it, in conjunction with the bones \nof other deer and of bears, and along \nwith a polished greenstone celt (neolithic) \nand several stone rubbers. There were also some remarkable evidences met \nwith of the association of man with the great Irish elk. Professor Leith \nAdams, who removed and packed these remains, says that many of the bones \nof the megaceros were evidently split for their marrow, and several elk cannon- \nbones were found fashioned into awls and gauges, showing that man was not \nonly cotemporaneous with the giant stag of Ireland, but also may have helped \nto exterminate it. The explorations of this cave promise to open out a new era \nin the prehistoric history of Ireland. \n\nHelvick Head, the southern boundary of Dungarvan Bay, is four miles dis- \ntant, and rises 231 feet above the sea. The southern coast eastwards is very \n\n\n\n\nCoumshinaun. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\xc2\xbb5--*\'\xc2\xab \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n^ \n\n^ ^ \n\xc2\xa7 S \n\n\n\n\n\n\nWA TERFORD. \n\n\n\n531 \n\n\n\ninteresting. From Island Castle, near Bonmahon, John O\'Mahony effected \nhis escape after our unavailing efforts in Kilkenny, Tipperary, and Waterford, \nin the autumn of 1848, to retrieve the results of the movement of Smith \nO\'Brien and his comrades, in the summer of that year. Further eastward is \nTramore, a famous watering-place. The strand, which is extensive and firm, is \nvery attractive to bathers. The town is picturesquely situated on the hill, which \nrises abruptly from the bay, and on a cliff-point to the left is a tower sur- \nmounted by a figure \xe2\x80\x94 popularly known as " the Metal-Man " \xe2\x80\x94 pointing to the \ndangers of the coast. Five miles to the north is the Cromlech of Knockeen. \n\nThe splendid Suir, from its northwestern associationship with the county to \nthe sea, affords in itself a series of pleasures which will be appreciated by more \neven than the tourist in search of the picturesque. The Valley of the Suir \nmight inspire an enthusiasm which would far outrun our space. The rich and \nbeautiful scenery along its \n\ncourse is backed up by the ^ ~ "~^^ =^ ^-=^ \n\nwild, steep, and shadow-cast- ^ \n\ning slopes and varied outlines \nof the Galtee, Knockmele- \ndown, and Commeragh Moun- \ntains. The latter, forming the \nbackbone of Waterford, are \nseen from all points. The \nsailor hails them from the sea \non the south, as the " High- \nlands of Dungarvan," while \nboth slopes inland are associated with legend, history, and romance. Under the \nshadow of its summits are eight small lakes within a circuit of three miles. \nThree of these are near Mon-a-BullacIi, the mount of the summit, which is 2,500 \nfeet high. One of these is called the Lake of the Grey Phantom ; and the most \ninteresting, perhaps, and largest is Coumshinaun, the valley of ants, a circu- \nlar basin which appears to have been formed by a land slide, or is mayhap \nthe crater of an extinct volcano. It occupies a deep dell, half a mile long and \nhalf that in breadth, with precipitous rocky sides ; the scenery wildly sublime in \nits character. Amid these lonely and grand solitudes the writer spent many, \nmany days, some of them with O\'Mahony while eluding the Government \nauthorities, and organizing the gallant peasantry in 1848; the magnificent \nscope of scenery, and the local lore of his patriot friend beguiling the \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTubber Grieve. \n\n\n\nS32 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nemergencies and unceasing trials of outlawry, to which both were subjected. \nOne of the most memorable occasions was spent at Coumshinaun, to the appro- \npriate name of which he can bear witness. Associated also with this stirring \nperiod is the fine forest range from Gurteen to Coolnamuck, especially the latter, \nand Millvale, which gave shelter to the outlaws, and where frequently the local \nleaders met from both sides of the Suir to report intelligence and receive instruc- \ntions. Coolnamuck was in possession of the Walls from the time of Henry II. \ntill 1852, when it changed hands under the Encumbered Estates Act. From Clon- \nmel to Carrick the Suir passes through a delightful and rich country. Opposite \n\nCarrick is the suburb of Car- \nrick-beg, and over the latter \n-^ "^ the elevation of Carrick-a- \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0^ nook, where the Nationalist \n\n^ ^ -^ % " farmers and peasantry of \n\n~ ~ Waterford congregated on \n\nrising in September, 1848. \nAbout five miles to the \nsoutheast, and three miles \nfrom the Suir, under shelter \nof the Commeraghs, is the \nvillage of Portlaw, where the \nNationalists had their first \nconflict with the authorities \non the morning after the ris- \ning. Portlaw is a hive of \nindustry ; the factory, which was started some fifty-five years ago, being the \ncentre of a thriving population of 4,000 persons. Almost exclusively devoted to \nthe production of cotton fabrics from the raw material, it is surpassed by few \nmills even in the great manufacturing centres of England. It is claimed that \nthe success of the Portlaw Factory illustrates the suitability of the country and \nthe population for manufacturing industry on a large scale, and that neither race \nnor religion presents insuperable obstacles to Irish progress ; for, says Walker, \n"the bulk of the population are Celts, and of 3,915 inhabitants 3,684 are \nRoman Catholics." Adjoining Portlaw is the magnificent demesne of Curragh- \nmore, the seat of the Poers. Here are woody scenes, extensive lawns, and vast \nsweeps of wild and mountainous country with glimpses of river scenery. The \nmansion was barricaded and fortified in \'48. Not far from the grounds is \n\n\n\n\nThe Castle of Kin-Corr. \n\n\n\nWA TERFORD. \n\n\n\n533 \n\n\n\nTubber Grieve, a holy well in high repute. Another point of interest on this \nriver is the Castle of Kin-Corr, " the head of the Weir." \n\nThe position of Waterford, one of the most ancient maritime ports in \nIreland, renders it, perhaps, unsurpassed for a great commercial station. Its \nmost ancient name was derived from a woman, Dacaech, in the era of Heremon, \ntwelve centuries B.C. ; it was called Loch-Dacaech, the bay of Dacaech. In \nA.D. 155 it was known as Cuan-na-Grian, the harbor of the sun; afterwards \nas Glcanii-na-Gleodh, the valley of lamentation, from a sanguinary battle \nbetween the Danes and Irish, in which the latter burned the town to the ground. \nIt was called Port Largi, the " port of the thigh," on account, as some claim, \nof its shape ; while others say this name was derived from Larac, a Norse \nchieftain, who died there in 951. Its present name is of Danish origin, either \nfrom Vader-fiord, the ford of the father (Odin), or Vedra-fiord, which, according \nto O\'Donovan, signifies weather bay. \nThe Danes made a permanent settle- \nment here under Sitric, about a.d. \n853, when the town was built and \nwalled. For the period it was a place \nof great strength, and the scattered \nnotices of this colony which have \nreached us show that the inhabitants \nmaintained an independent and sov- \nereign authority, and were the terror, \nif not masters, of a large extent of \ncountry. Within a century and a half \n\nwe read of three Danish kings of Waterford laying waste or occupying Meath, \nKildare, and Dublin. In 1003 the stone circular castle on the water\'s edge was \nbuilt, and it still stands, a remarkable monument near the end of the quay, and \nbears the name of its founder, Reginald\'s Tower. The arrival of the Anglo- \nNorman invaders here was signalized by an act of wanton cruelty. Forced back \ninto his entrenchments by a sally of the . men from Waterford, Raymond le \nGros suddenly drove the stock of cattle he had seized throughout the neighbor- \nhood upon his assailants, and in the confusion obtained a victory amidst great \nslaughter, capturing seventy persons, many of whom were principal citizens. \nFor these large ransoms were offered ; but the English historian tells us that \ntheir limbs having been first broken, they were cast into the sea, over the \ncliffs at Dundonolf. Waterford was immediately made headquarters by Strong- \n\n\n\n\nChiirch Riuji at Faithleoo \n\n\n\n534 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nDunmore Pier. \n\n\n\nbow. Henry II. arrived here in October, 1172: an assembly of the clergy, \nheld in this city in 11 77, promulgated the English King\'s title to dominion in \nIreland. At Easter, 1185, John, son of Henry II., landed here as gover- \nnor, and again as king in 121 1. Richard II. arrived here in October, 1394, \n\nand again in 1399. Money was \ncoined here at various times in \nthe reigns of John, Edward I., \nand Edward IV. By statute \n\xc2\xa3=1^ 25th of Henry VI. (1447) it was \nmade lawful for the mayor and \ncitizens of Waterford to assem- \nble forces "against the Powers, \nWalshes, Grants, and Daltons." \nFor its loyalty to Henry VII. \nagainst the pretensions of Simnel \nand Warbeck, the city received \nfrom the monarch the motto, Urbs Intacta Manet Waterfordia. The city was \ntaken by Cromwell, through the daring exertions of two brothers Croker, one \nof whom was killed. The other was rewarded with the confiscated estate of Sir \nWilliam Coppinger, whose daughter, however, won and wed the capturer. \nAfter James II. had fled from the Boyne, he bade farewell to his crown and \ndominions here. On the evacu- \nation of the Jacobite garrison ""\'- ^^^_ \nWilliam III. entered ; and, after __ \nhis discomfiture at Limerick, he \nembarked at this port for England. \nWaterford is distinguished in these \nlatter days by being the birth- \nplace of Richard Lalor Shiel, \nthe " twin " emancipator, and \nauthor of Evadnc and The Apos- \ntate ; William Vincent Wallace, \nthe composer, and Thomas Francis Meagher, the patriot orator and soldier. \n\nA splendid view of the confluence of the Suir, Nore, and Barrow is obtained \nfrom Faithlegg Hill, over Cheek-point, turning which we go directly into Water- \nford harbor and passing Creaden Head, to Dunmore, on a wild eminence over \nwhich is a remarkable Druid altar in a circle of perpendicular stones. \n\n\n\n\n4s \n\n\n\nDruid Altar near Dunmore \n\n\n\n^ \n\n\n\n\n^ \n\n\n\nTYRONE. \n\n\n\n\nCastle Caulfield. \n\n\n\nTyrone, an inland county of Ulster, was inhabited in the time of Ptolemy \nby the Scoti. It was afterwards known as the district or kingdom of Kinel- \nEoghain, and frequently called Tyr-owen, from which its present name is \nderived. From the earliest period of the Irish annals it was known as the chief \nseat of the O\'Nials, a race who were, according to Camden, kings in Ireland \nbefore Christianity, " tyranizing it in Ulster before the coming of St. Patricke." \nEven in the time of Henry III. the royal dignity attached to them ; that \nmonarch, in a letter to the Irish princes, styles O\'Neil king of the people of \nTir-oen. The chiefs of the race fill a large space in history, making their terri- \ntory eminently conspicuous. The careers of the O\'Neills, who flourished during \nthe Tudor era, attracted particular attention, and are subjects of thrilling interest \nto romancers, poets, and historians. Shane O\'Neill assumed the sovereignty of \nUlster, and maintained so vigorous a war against the English that they were \ndetermined to destroy him by any means. He was finally treacherously entrap- \nped at a feast, and murdered ; and his head, set up on a pole, long grinned over \nthe battlements of Dublin Castle. The great Hugh O\'Neill, one of the most \n535 \n\n\n\n536 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ndistinguished soldiers of Europe, was for years more than a match in war and \ndiplomacy for the ablest agents of Elizabeth. The surface of the country is \ngreatly diversified by varieties of hill and dale, rising to elevated tracts in the north \nand west \xe2\x80\x94 the Munterlowny (1,432 feet) and Sperrin Mountains, between which a \nglen road connects some of the principal towns. The Sperrin Range is the \nloftiest and best defined. One thousand feet high near Strabane, they extend \nin a curve thirty-six miles, and reach the highest altitude, 2,236 feet, at Sleive \nSawel. The lowlands present some views of rich and tranquil scenery. Omagh, \nthe chief town, is in the centre of the county ; other prominent towns are New- \ntown-Stewart, beautifully situated on the west bank of the River Mourne, under \nthe hills called Bessie Bell and Mary Gray ; Dungannon, over which stood the \n\ncastle of the O\'Neills ; Stra- \nbane, at the junction of the \nMourne and the Foyle ; Clog- \nher, now a village, the seat \nof an ancient bishopric ; and \nGortin, the principal town of \nthe mountainous region. The \ncontinuous warfare necessarily \nled to the erection of many \nforts and castles ; among the \nmost striking of which was \nCastle Caulfield, built by Sir \nToby Caulfield, who was re- \nwarded by Elizabeth and \nJames I. with large grants, on \none of which, in the barony of Dungannon, he built his fine house. It was \ndismantled by Sir Phelim O\'Neill in 1641, and has remained a picturesque ruin. \nAbout three miles from Clogher is the romantic glen of Altadaven ; formerly, \naccording to tradition, a seat of Druidism. It is a most charming retreat, lined on \neither side by perpendicular walls of rock over 100 feet high, and surrounded by \nenchanting scenery. St. Patrick, it is understood, visited this spot, and removing \nall traces of Druidic rites, converted the retreat into a place of Christian \nworship. O\'Hanlon, in his deeply interesting Lives of the Irish Saints, gives \nthe picture of his chair, which is reproduced on this page. \n\nWilliam Carleton, the illustrious novelist, was born at Prillisk, in Clogher \nparish. \n\n\n\n\n\nCopyriglil ISSO "by Thomas Kellj-jKew York. \n\n\n\nRussell & Struthers, Engr\'e N.Y, \n\n\n\n\nCopjrlghl, 1819, by Ihomiu Kelly, Mere Yoit. \n\n\n\nKILKENNY. \n\n\n\n\nRuins at Kdls. \n\n\n\nKilkenny, an inland county of the province of Leinster, was, according to \nPtolemy, inhabited by the Brigantes. It was afterwards, and still anciently, part \nof the kingdom of Ossory, a name modernized from Uisraigagh, indicating its \nposition {Uisge, water; and rioghachd, kingdom,) as the kingdom between the \nwaters. The Suir, after flowing between Tipperary and Waterford, strikes Kil- \nkenny west of Pilltown, and forms the southern boundary save where it flows be- \ntween the city of Waterford and Ferrybank. On the east the Barrow bounds it \nfor twenty-six miles. The Nore is the principal river, flowing through the centre \nof the county for forty miles, receiving in its winding course the King\'s River, \nthe Dinan, and several lesser streams. The Nore is a rapid river, subject to \ngreat floods, and its banks present some good views, justifying the encomiums of \nmany noted travellers. Mr. Tighe says that from Mount Juliet to New Ross, by \nThomastown and Inistioge, it presents picturesque scenery, varied by ruined \n537 \n\n\n\n538 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\ncastles and abbeys, by rocks that turn the course of the river, by green meadows \nthat skirt its banks, or by steep hills clothed in foliage. From the union of these \nsplendid rivers \xe2\x80\x94 so graphically described by Spenser \xe2\x80\x94 the southern part of the \ncounty was sometimes called Comar na tri Uisge, the high district of the three \nwaters. The countries of Ely O\'Carrol and Hy Carthin comprised some of \nthe northwestern part ; and the kingdom was sometimes tributary to Leinster, \nand sometimes to Munster. \n\nBeyond its ancient limits to the north, a portion of the Queens county, con- \ntaining some 1,900 acres was annexed to Kilkenny by act of Parliament, at the in- \nstance of the Earl of Ormond, " to repress the outrages committed by the Fitz- \npatricks against his tenantry, who, when tried in the Queens county, were \nalways acquitted, but when brought to Kilkenny never escaped with impunity." \nIn general the aspect of this county is hilly, but the elevations are rarely of so \nprecipitous a character as to preclude the operations of agriculture. The \nmarble and coal are esteemed its most valuable natural productions. The coal, \nanthracite, celebrated as " one of the wonders of Ireland, in producing fire with- \nout smoke," is found near and around Castle Comer. The coal field, which in \nthis county is about six miles square, extends into the Queens county. The \ncollieries were not worked until a few years before 1726, at which time Boate \nissued his " Natural History of Ireland." A number of men had been for years \nengaged in raising iron ore, which was smelted with charcoal from the numerous \nwoods of the county, and having worked through the seam, came unexpectedly \nto a vein of coal. The first pits sunk were unprofitable. The general outline of \nthe coal district is basin-shaped. The valley is considerably elevated, and the \nhills which limit it are in several places 1,000 feet above sea level. \n\nKilkenny was formed into a county by King John ; and at the succession \nof James I. was chiefly occupied by the Graces, the O\'Brenans, the Wandes- \nfords, the Butlers, the Roothes, the Harpurs, the Walshes of the mountains, \nthe Shortals, and the O\'Sheas. The latter have since changed their name to \nShee, to distinguish themselves from the O\'Sheas of Cork. Justice Shee, \nof the Queen\'s Bench, England, the first Catholic elevated to the English judi- \ncial bench since the days of James II., was of this family. Chief Justice Shea, \nof the Marine Court, New York, is of the Cork branch. The Walsh family, \nlike manj^ other Anglo-Normans, adopted an Irish surname and title, and was \nknown for ages as " Branach," which signifies in Irish a Welchman. At an early \nperiod it had extensive possessions in Waterford and Kilkenny. For four \ncenturies it was only inferior in estate and power to the Butlers and Graces. It \n\n\n\n\n\\: \n\n\n\n<^^ \n\n\n\n\\ \n\n\n\n\n\n\nKILKENNY. \n\n\n\n539 \n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0enjo3\'ed the palatinate title of Baron Shanacher, and " Walshe\'s Country " con- \ntained twenty-six castles besides Castle Howell, the principal residence. Near \nthe southern boundary, not far from Waterford city, and on the Kilkenny side of \nthe Suir, are the striking ruins of Grandison, or, as it is popularly called, Granny \n\'Castle. It is of considerable extent. On the land side the large square keep, \nand the remains of circular towers on the margin of the river, with extensive \n\xe2\x80\xa2courts and lines of fortified walls between, indicate its baronial splendor as well \nas its military strength. Its erection is credited to Pierce Butler, eighth Earl of \nOrmonde, Lord Deputy of Ireland in 1521, whose wife, "the great countess," \naccording to tradition, held a court here for " the trial of rebels," and huno- \nthem from a window. The respect or fear she inspired remained for centuries \namong the people, and not many years since they frightened children by her \nname, threatening them with. Mazighrced ny Ghirord, her maiden name, Margaret \nFitzgerald, having been second \n\ndaughter of Gerald, the eighth __ J^^"^ -^..^^-^^ \xe2\x80\x94^ \n\nEarl of Kildare. Carte says \n\xe2\x80\xa2she had " great wisdom and \ncourage uncommon in her sex," \nand Stanihurst, " she was man- \nlike, and tall of stature " ; a \n\xe2\x96\xa0" lady of such port that all the \nestates of the realm couched to \nher. So politic that nothing \nwas thought substantially de- \nbated without her advice." \n\nTwo roads lead eastward \nfrom Tipperary to the city of \nKilkenny ; the one from Nine-Mile House to Callan ; and the other, from Car- \nrick-on-Suir, by Windgap and Kilmagany to Kells. Callan, on the King\'s River, \nis a place of antiquity, formerly a walled town, having charters from six English \nsovereigns, and was the scene of many a feudal fray between the great rival \nhouses of Fitzgerald and Butler. In 1659 it resisted Cromwell for a few \ndays. Picturesquely situated on the left bank of the river are the remains \nof St. Catherine\'s Abbey, which retains marks of considerable extent and \nsplendor. Kells, also on the King\'s River, is likewise a place of great antiquity, \nalthough reduced to insignificant houses and cabins. It was founded by one \nof Strongbow\'s followers to overcome the Tipperary clans ; and to check the \n\n\n\n\nf^-\'-^x :^\'^ \n\n\n\nSt Cathoiiu\'s Ahb(.y. \n\n\n\nS40 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nforays of the latter, there once existed a chain of forts along the river from- \nKells to beyond Callan. The founder, Geoffrey Fitz-Robert, also built an \n\nextensive religious house and filled it with, \nmonks from Bodmin in Cornwall. It expanded \nby degrees, and the extent of the ruins proves \nthat the establishment must have been of mag- \nnificent proportions when dissolved by Henry \nVIII. At a short distance to the south is the \nRound Tower of Kilree, fifty feet and six \ninches in circumference near the base ; and \nlittle less than one hundred feet higrh, although \ndismantled at top. Close by is a stone cross \neight feet high, of a single block of freestone, \nornamented with orbicular figures or rings. A \nfew miles to the southeast is the picturesque \nand venerable pile of Jerpoint Abbey, the \nbeauty of whose ruins, which occupied three \nacres, command the admiration of the architectural antiquary and the lover of the \npicturesque. It was founded, according to Archdal, for Cistercian monks in 1180, \n\nby Donough, -- \\:^s\xc2\xbb.- -^^^-^^ \n\nKing of Ossory. _^_--" = -= ~- -^-=\xc2\xab--=\'---=--^^--- ^^ \n\nIt was liberally _^ ~ :_: ;zzr \n\nendowed by him ^ \n\nand others, and \n\nthe monks were \n\nconfirmed in \n\ntheir possessions -^j..^, \n\nby John as "lord \n\n\n\n\nTower atid Cross at Kilree. \n\n\n\n\nof Ireland." The \nAbbot was a lord \nof parliament ; \nand the last who \nexercised this \ndignity was Oli- \nver Grace, young- \ner brother of Baron John Grace of Courtstown. The architecture combines \nthe Anglo-Norman and Gothic styles ; and the less ancient divisions of the \n\n\n\nGeneral View\xe2\x80\x94KMs Abbiy. \n\n\n\nKILKENNY. \n\n\n\nS4I \n\n\n\ntuilding, which are strictly in the pointed manner, are probably, in the opinion of \nMr. Brewer, contemporary with the Abbeys of Dunbrody and Tintern, but the \nexecution is greatly superior, and the general design partakes more of lightness \nand elegance than is seen in either of these much-admired relics. Its battle- \nments are noteworthy, "as being identical with many found in the north of Italy, \nbut very unlike anything either in England or Scotland. They give a foreign \n\n\n\n\nJerpoint Abbey , from tlic Kivcr. \n\nlook to the whole building." In wealth and grandeur Jerpoint was esteemed \nfourth among the mitred abbeys of Ireland. , On its suppression it contained 6,500 \nacres demesne lands ; and these, with its other estates, were granted to Thomas, \nthe tenth Earl of Ormond, at a rental of less than ^50. The abbey contained \nmany ancient and beautiful monuments, among them one of two figures (habited \nin the costume of the twelfth century) to the founder, who died and was here \ninterred in 11 85; others to ecclesiastical dignitaries; and to members of the \n\n\n\n542 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nButler, Grace, Walsh, and Fitzgerald families, down to the seventeenth century. \nWhat remains is extremely interesting and elegant, but wantonness and neglect \nhave gone far to destroy this once extensive and beautiful structure. \n\nThe city of Kilkenny has a county attached to itself, comprising an area of \nover 17,000 acres of the surrounding district. It is built on the Nore, which \ndivides it into unequal portions ; the larger, containing the castle, is on the \nwestern bank, and near the northern extremity on the same side is the older \npart, called Irishtown, separated from the former by the small river Breagh, \n\nwhich here falls, \ninto the Nore. \nTwo bridges, St. \nJohn\'s and \nGreen\'s, connect \nthe banks of the \nriver. Like old \ncities in general, \nthe streets are \nirregular, but the \ncastle, the cathe- \ndral, and the im- \nposing remains \nof ancient struct- \nures, give it an \nair of remarkable \n\nmagnificence. There are numerous public edifices, churches, colleges ; and the \nusual municipal and county buildings add to its respectability. From the Anglo- \nNorman invasion to the parliamentary war in 1641, Kilkenny appears to have \nbeen the most important inland town. Of its earlier history little is recorded \nprevious to 11 73, when Donald O\'Brien, king of Thomond, compelling Strong- \nbow to retreat to Waterford, demolished the castle, burned the town, and laid \nwaste the country. In 1192 the English seem to have obtained a firm hold, and, \nthree years after, William le Marescjial rebuilt the castle and restored the town. \nA great council of the barons of the Pale was held here in 1294; and in \n1309 a parliament representing the same interest assembled and passed the \nmost severe laws against English settlers who should adopt Irish customs, \nwhich were enforced by anathemas fulminated in the cathedral by the \nArchbishop of Cashel and other prelates who assisted on the occasion.. \n\n\n\n\nyerpoint Abbey \xe2\x80\x94 South. \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 {g,^;->. \xe2\x80\x94 :;^-v-.S:^:ik:;^\xc2\xab\xe2\x80\x94 \n\n\n\nC^ v^ \n\n\n\n\nM \n\n\n\nH \n\n\n\ni \n\n\n\nKILKENNY. \n\n\n\n543 \n\n\n\nIn 131 7 Lord Roger Mortimer, Justiciary of Ireland, and the English nobles took \ncounsel here to effectively oppose Edward Bruce ; and an army of 30,000 was \nassembled, and under the alarm the town was filled with refugees. In 1327 and \n1330 parliaments were held here, and an army assembled to drive Brien O\'Brien \nfrom Urkuffs, near Cashel. The next year a parliament was adjourned to this \nplace from Dublin; and in 1341 "a grand meeting of the principal nobility \nand the chief officers of the king\'s cities took place, to petition for the better \ngovernment of Ireland." Parliaments were also held in 1347, 1356, and 1367, \nthe latter by Lionel, Duke of Clarence, at which one of the most cruel of the \nanti-social enactments, " the Statute of Kilkenny," was adopted ; also in 1370 and \n1374, when Sir William de Windsor was sworn into office as lord-lieutenant. \nRichard II. arrived here, from Waterford, in 1399, and was entertained for \nfourteen days by the Earl \nof Ormond. Certain cus- \ntoms and tolls having \nbeen granted for the pur- \npose, the town was almost \nencompassed with walls in \n1400; and in 141 9 another \ngrant was made for the \nsame purpose. In the \nwars of York and Lancas- \nter, the Earl of. Desmond, \nan adherent of the latter, \ntook and plundered the \ntown ; and in 1499 the \nburgesses, led by their sovereign, marched out in aid of the Butlers \nagainst Tirlough O\'Brien, but were defeated. The last parliament held \nhere was in 1536, and was adjourned to Cashel; but Kilkenny still continued \nto be the occasional residence of the lords-lieutenant, for which purpose \nHenry VIII. gave the corporation the site and precincts of the Blackfriars\' \nMonastery. In 1641 the city was seized by Lord Mountgarret, and became \nthe headquarters of the Catholic Confederation ; and in the following year, \nOctober 24th, the famous parliament, consisting of lords, prelates, and repre- \nsentatives deputed from all parts of the kingdom, assembled here in the house \nof Mr. Robert Shee, son of Sir Richard Shee.* The lords (spiritual and \n\n* The historical mansion was recently occupied as " the Kilkenny Commercial House." \n\n\n\n\nInU>ior Viccij of Ji>po^?it \n\n\n\n544 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nShee\'s House, in tuhich the Cojtfederaie Parliament was keld. \n\n\n\ntemporal) and commons assembled in one room. Nicholas Plunket was speaker, \nand both lords and commons addressed their speech to him. Patrick Darcy \nrepresented the members of the judiciary that used to sit in parliament. The \nlords had an upper room for private consultation, and the result was delivered \nto the commons by Mr. Darcy. The clergy, who were not qualified to sit as \n\nbarons, held a convocation in \nanother house ; and a press was \nset up, at which the decrees of \nthe Council were printed. The \ntreaty concluded between the \nConfederation and the Lord- \nLieutenant Ormond, was upset \nby the arrival of Rinuncini, \nthe Pope\'s Nuncio, in 1645. He \ninterdicted the city and suburbs. \nIn 1650 Cromwell invested Kil- \nkenny. The Governor, Sir \nWalter Butler, on being sum- \nmoned to surrender, replied : " I am commanded to maintain this city for His \nMajesty, which, by the power of God, I am resolved to do." Having received \norders from Lord Castlehaven, " that if not relieved he should not for any \npunctilio of honor expose the townsmen to be massacred, but make as good con- \nditions as he could by a timely surrender," Butler at length yielded. The gar- \nrison got good terms, Cromwell \ndeclaring "they were gallant fel- \nlows, and that he had lost more \nmen in storming that place than he \nhad in taking Drogheda." Thus \nthe city and castle, having been in \npossession of the Confederates for \nnine years, were given uji. The castle \nwas purchased by James Butler, in \n1 39 1, from Thomas le Spencer, and \nfrom that period to the present, amid \nall the mutations of time, and the \nhavoc and feuds of civil strife, it has remained in possession of this family. \n\nThe entrance to Kilkenny, wrote Willis, and the romantic view of the Casde \n\n\n\n\nKILKENNY. \n\n\n\n545 \n\n\n\nV n^J \n\n\n\nia- \n\n\n\nThe Chair of St. Kiernan. \n\n\n\nof the Ormonds rising above the river, remind me strongly of one of the views \nof Warwick Castle. The first impression of the town from a cursory glance \nis extremely fine ; the Cathedral of St. Canice, the castle, and other very \nimposing structures coming into almost every view, from the unevenness of the \noTound and the happily chosen sites of all these edifices. It is well worthy of \n\nattention as an existing model, to a great \nextent, of the old feudal castles of the \nAnglo-Norman barons of the middle ages, \nproudly overlooking the city, which grew \nup under its shadow. It is finely situated \non the banks of the Nore, commanding \ncharming views of the most picturesque \nparts of the city and of the surrounding \ncountry. \n\nSt. Canice\'s Cathedral is the most inter- \nesting of them among the numerous eccle- \nsiastical remains in Kilkenny. It is a large, cruciform pile, extending 226 feet \nfrom east to west, and the transept measuring 123 feet. It was founded about \nthe year 1180, by Bishop Felix O\'Dallany, and was finished some two centuries \nlater. It was a magnificent edifice, and scarcely inferior in magnitude, complete- \nness, and ornamentation to St. Patrick\'s and Christ\'s Church in Dublin. Ware \nstates that Bishop Ledred, soon _ \n\nafter 13 18, expended large sums ^=^ %_ \n\nin embellishing the cathedral, and ^T"^ \'^K \n\nparticularly in filling the win- \ndows with stained glass, which \nwere destroyed by the Crom- \nwrellian fanatics in 1650. Indeed, \nthe fabric sustained great in- \njuries during these wars, and has \nbeen undergoing restoration to \nour day. It contains many fine \nmonuments ; and in the north \ntransept is a stone seat, the Chair of St. Kiernan, who is believed to have \npreceded St. Patrick on the mission by thirty years. Six feet and a half from \nthe cathedral is a Round Tower, in good preservation, 108 feet high and 40 \nfeet in circumference. At a short distance is the Well of St. Canice, the waters \n\n\n\n\nbt tanicc\'s LatJudt III \n\n\n\n546 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nof which are icy cold in the hottest day of summer. The Dominican, or Black \nAbbey, founded in 1225, is also in Irishtown, the oldest part of which old \nborough is " The Butt\'s Cross," where the people, between the ages of sixteen \nand sixty were compelled by statute to practice with the long-bow \xe2\x80\x94 "the bows of \n\newe, wyche-hasel, auburne, or other reasonable tree, according to their power" \n\nunder pain of " two pence per month," or on every feast-day of " an half-penny \nper day." The Priory of St. John, founded by the Earl of Pembroke about \n121 1, was demolished to make room for a foot barrack but in the present century \nwas re-edified into a parish church. From the number of its windows it was \nknown as the Lantern of Ireland. One of the most beautiful of the ruins, the \nFranciscan Friary, is situated on the Nore. The body of the church is still \nstanding, but roofless. The tower, formerly the centre of the building, is of light \n\nand pleasing proportions, resting on \na well-groined pointed archway. The \nbody of the church has long been used \nas a tennis-court, and other portions \nmore recently as a brewery. \n\nAmong the educational establish- \nments of Kilkenny is a famous grammar \nschool, founded by Pierce Butler and his \nwife, the noted Margaret. It received \na new charter in 1684 from the Duke of \nOrmond, and was erected by James II. \ninto the " Royal College of St. Canice." \nAfter the retreat of this monarch the \ninstitution resumed its original charac- \nter, but continues to be known as the \nCollege of Kilkenny. Amongst the \ndistinguished names associated with it as students are those of Stanihurst^ \nSwift, Congreve, Farquhar, Harris, the continuator of Ware, Provost Baldwin,, \nand Berkeley. John Banim, the author of the fine drama of Damon and Pythias, \nand several standard novels of Irish life, was born in Kilkenny ; also James \nStephens, the patriot and revolutionist. \n\nThis county is noted for its coal and marble. There is a quantity of marble \nrock through every part of it ; but the principal quarry is a short distance south \nof the city. The marble is black, and some of it very pure. It generally con- \ntains a variety of impressions of madrepores, of bivalve and of turbinate shells. \n\n\n\n\nThe Well cf St. Canice. \n\n\n\nKILKENNY. \n\n\n\n547 \n\n\n\n" Mytilites, turbinites, pectenites, tellinites, tubuporites, nautilites, and am- \nmonites may be distinguished, and, perhaps, most of the testaceous marks \nusually found in such stones." About three miles north of the city, in the \nimmediate vicinity of other quarries, and not far from the edge of the calcareous \ndistrict, a little south of Methel Church, are the singular caves of Dunmore. \nThe first cavern is irregularly shaped, of a large circumference ; the roof fifty \nfeet high. Towards the left a narrow slippery passage leads to the interior, \nwhere a vast variety of stalactite forms, assisted by the inequality of the rocks, \ninterest the spectator. The cave narrows, and again widens into a large apart- \nment ; beyond are winding passages and other cavities, one of which, it is said, \nleads to the other side of the hill. The profound interior of these subterranean \nrecesses is in many parts rendered fearfully interesting by the bold and threaten- \ning character of the projecting masses of rock, revealed in shadowy indistinct- \nness by the few and dim lights. \nThe countless variety of stalac- \ntitic forms is caused by the con- \ntinued dripping of water ; and \namong these and the various \nshapes assumed by calcareous \nsinter, the imagination, excited \nby the unusual situation, traces \nthe resemblance of organ-pipes, \npillars, and inverted pyramids, \n\xe2\x80\x94 a cross, an altar, and other \nobjects which may occur to the \nrecollection of the beholder. \n\nA stream passes through the cave at a great distance from the entrance. Near \nthis stream, and in other parts of the cave, many skulls and bones have been \nfound, some of the former enveloped in calcareous spar.* Never having been \ncompletely explored, report gave the caves an underground communication \nwith Ormond Castle ; and the voices of people talking in the Tholsel are said to \nhave been heard in the caves. \n\nAt Bally Spellin and Castlecomer, both in the coal district, are chalybeate \nsprings, whose waters are much frequented. The merits of the former were \n\n\n\n\nThe Butt\'s Cross. \n\n\n\n* Tighe\'s Statistical Survey of Kilkenny, etc., Brewer\'s Beauties of Ireland. \n\n\n\n548 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ndiscussed nearly two centuries ago ; and Dr. Sheridan, the friend of Swift, cele- \nbrated its waters in verse. \n\n"All you that would refine your blood, \nAs pure as famed Llewellyn, \nBy waters clear, come every year \nTo drink at Bally Spellin." \n\nCastlecomer, a romantic village at the intersection of two roads, is on the \nestate of the Wandesfords. The old castle was destroyed, and the town sacked \nby the Nationalists in \'98. The new " hall " is finely situated on a lawn, under a \nrange of wooded hills, and bounded on the other side by the Ardera, a tributary \nof the Nore. \n\nNorthwest of the city \xe2\x80\x94 eight miles distant, on the mountain road leadino- to \n\nNew Birmingham, and Kille- \nnaule \xe2\x80\x94 is the village of Tul- \nlaroan, the centre of what \nwas known as Grace\'s county. \nThe district so named con- \nsisted of a vast tract, com- \nprehending, it is said, the \nbarony of Cranagh, and ex- \ntending northwards by the \nliberties of Kilkenny and \nthe River Nore, to the bor- \nders of the Queen\'s County; \nand thence southwards along \nthe borders of Tipperary to \nthe liberties of Callan, form- \ning a district nearly twelve \nmiles long and half as wide. A mile and a half from Tullaroan is Courtstown \nCastle, the principal residence of the Graces, and from which they took the \ntitle Baron of Courtstown. They were descendants of Raymond le Gros, and \nthe ruins of some twenty spacious castles, once owned and occupied by them, \nremain to attest their power and importance. The character of these citadels \nand castles may be illustrated by those of Courtstown and Inchmore. The \nformer indicates the military stronghold. Inchmore \xe2\x80\x94 situated on an almost \nisolated peninsula on the Nore, in the barony of Cranagh \xe2\x80\x94 on the other hand, is \nof a palatial character, erected after the introduction of the open casement. \n\n\n\n\nThe Franciscan Friary. \n\n\n\n\n^^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nKILKENNY. \n\n\n\n549 \n\n\n\nbowered windows, and ornamented gables, with tlie addition of defensive exterior \nand keep. The family came to final ruin by its adherence to the house of \nStuart. The influence of Baron John Grace in behalf of William III. having \nbeen sought \xe2\x80\x94 with flattering promises of royal favor \xe2\x80\x94 by Schomberg, the baron, \nin prompt indignation, at once wrote on the back of a card : " Tell your master \nI despise his offer ; tell him that honor and conscience are dearer to a gentleman \nthan all the wealth and titles a prince can bestow." The card chanced to be the \nsix of hearts, which, in Kilkenny and neighborhood, is to this day frequently \ncalled Grace\'s card." \n\nIn coming south from the city of Kilkenny to Waterford, the railroad keeps \nalong the left bank of the Nore, passing near the village and mills of Bennett\'s \nbridge ; from \nwhich to Thomas- \ntown the railway \naffords good \nviews of the fertile \nand sweetly diver- \nsified country on \neither side, and .-^_. \nof the circumja- \ncent hills. The \nchurch and castle \nruins, the keep \nof the old castle \nof Kibline, the \nRound Tower of \n\nTulloherin, are suggestive contrasts of former ages to the gentle scenery around. \nThe Thomastown Station, on an elevated site, commands views of the most \nattractive parts of the valley of the Nore. Thomastown is beautifully situated on \nthe banks of the river, the principal part occupying the left. Founded by \nThomas Fitzanthony Walsh, one of the earliest Anglo-Norman settlers, it con- \ntains many remnants of antiquity \xe2\x80\x94 square towers, parts of the fortified walls, \nand buildings. Five beautifully pointed arches constitute the ruins of the old \nDominican Abbey, the present parish church occupying the site of the chancel, \nin which are many ancient monuments. The Roman Catholic Chapel contains \n\n* The nine of diamonds derived its title of " Curse of Scotland" from the Duke of Cumberland having written \non it his sanguinary orders for military executions after the battle of Culloden. \n\n\n\n\nRoujid Tower at TuUohcrin \n\n\n\n550 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\n\'iVoodstock Demesne and Bridsre. \n\n\n\nthe altar removed from the ruins of Jerpoint. Situated midway in the most \ninteresting portion of the valley of the Nore, Thomastown is a good halting- \nplace for the tourist. It has the honor of being the birthplace of Berkeley. \n\nComing dourn the river we reach Instiogue, romantically situated on the right \n\nbank, and on the direct \n-^f ^^ ----- - _ route to New Ross on the \n\nWexford border. As Fraser \nsays, the high pastoral and \nwoodland banks, the lovely \nmeads formed by the graceful \nwindings of the ample river, \nall tend to produce a suc- \ncession of pleasing, of beau- \ntiful scenes ; while the grey \nruins of Grenane and Dy- \nsart Castles, rising in the \ncentre of the narrow but verdant valley, impart to the whole a peculiar and very \npicturesque effect. Near Instiogue is the well-known demesne, Woodstock, \nwhere the river is crossed \nby an elegant bridge of ten \narches. The woods extend \nfor two miles up the. right \nbank of the river ; and the \ncultivated taste of its pro- \nprietor has made it famous \nmany years ago. Here Mrs. \nTighe dwelt many years \xe2\x80\x94 \nwrote some of her sweetest \npoems \xe2\x80\x94 and died in 1810. \n\nThe climate of Kilkenny is \nconsidered one of the most healthful in Ireland, the freest from damps and fogs, \nbecause of the prevalence of limestone bottom, the absence of bogs and marshes, \nand the elevation of the great central plain. Although well adapted for manu- \nfactures, the peojile are almost entirely thrown upon agriculture for support. \nDr. John O\'Donovan, the great Gaelic scholar, archaeologist, and savant, was a \nnative of Atateemore, in this county. \n\n\n\n\nLodiTc School at Woodstock. \n\n\n\nLIMERICK. \n\n\n\n\nCity of Limerick. \n\n\n\nThe County of Limerick, to which so many heroic memories cling, possesses \nalso eminent attractions for the antiquary and the lover of the picturesque. \nWhile its general character is flat, it is diversified by many hills, and in some \nparts by mountains of considerable elevation. The whole western district, from \nLoughill, on the north, to Drumcollagher is composed of an unbroken range of \nmountains, stretching in a vast but regular and beautiful curve. The northeast, in \nthe barony of Owneybeg, is skirted by the Sleive Phelim Mountains, an exten- \nsive group, exhibiting a long array of high and domical summits, which penetrate \nfar into Tipperary. On the southeast the level country is bounded by the \nGalty Mountains, the finest inland range In Ireland, rising precipitously to a \n5SI \n\n\n\n552 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ngreat elevation, forming the boundary of Limerick, and also stretching thence \ninto Tipperary. In the neighborhood of Pallasgreen and Cahirconlish are the \nrichest if not loveliest group of pastoral hills in the county. The Ballingarry \n\nhills, near the centre of the county, and rising \nfrom the high pastoral lands, are very striking. \nKnockfearna, the principal elevation, is conical, \nand rises to 949 feet, commanding views of the \nrich central plain of the county. Another con- \nspicuous height is Knockpatrick, between Shana- \ngolden and the Shannon. This great river forms \nthe entire northern boundary of Limerick from a \nfew miles below, where it leaves Lough Derg, to \nits extremest western point, when it joins the \nCounty Kerry. This river in itself is an object \nOf special places within its view there will be found \n\n\n\n\nDruidical Remains. \n\n\n\n\nDruidictxl Rcinaih \n\n\n\nof surpassing interest \noccasion to refer. From its banks there \nstretches, in a southeasterly direction, a \nvast tract of land, which is justly con- \nsidered to be the richest in Ireland, the \nsoil being in general a deep mellow loam, \nfor the most part based on limestone, and \nfit for every kind of culture. The most \nproductive tract, comprising about 100,000 \nacres, is in the neighborhood of Bruff, \nKillmallock, Athlacca, and Hospital, form- \ning part of the district called " The Golden Vale," which extends from Pallas- \nkenry to Kilfinnan and Kilfrush, on the Tipperary border, a distance of thirty- \ntwo miles ; and in breadth, from Drehid- \ntarsna, by the city of Limerick, to Abing- \ndon, a distance of eighteen miles. The \ncorcasses or low meadow lands which \nextend from the Mague along the Shan- \nnon to Limerick city, have a substratum \nof yellow and blue clay, occasionally \nmixed with sand and gravel ; and the \nsoil of other parts, not occupied by mountains, particularly west of the river \nDeel, which runs from south to north across the western part of the county. \n\n\n\n\nDruidical Temple. \n\n\n\nLIMERICK. \n\n\n\n553 \n\n\n\nconsists of a light loam, resting on limestone or stiff clay, and well suited both \nfor pasture and tillage. Yet with such a considerable proportion of the soil \nfavorable to the production of abundant crops, the complaint made by Arthur \nYoung a century ago, that by far the least portion is under tillage, is not with- \nout application to-day. The remains of antiquity are various, as well as numer- \nous, embracing round towers at Carrigeen, Croom, and Kilmallock, and the \nstump of one at Ardpatrick ; druidical remains, circles at Grange, and circular \n\n\n\n\nKing John\'s Castle. \n\n\n\nforts at Kilpeacan, Shannid, and other places. Not long since there were the \nremains of some fifty religious houses, and castles were so numerous that their \nruins are found within half a mile of each other. Bones and horns of the moose- \ndeer have been found in different parts, from five to ten feet deep in the boggy \ndistricts. \n\nThe city of Limerick from a very early period, as Hall states, held rank as \n\n\n\n554 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nperhaps the second city in Ireland ; and before its historic walls were defeated \nthe Anglo-Norman chivalry, the Cromwellian Ironsides, and Williamite army \n\nflushed with previous victories. It is \nadvantageously situated on the Shan- \nnon, and was anciently called L7i,im- \nneach-na-linu-ghlas. Limerick of the \nazure river. The corporation is very \nancient, the mayoralty dating back to \nthe time of Richard I., ten years be- \nfore London obtained the distinction. \nIn 815 the Danes first appeared on \nthe Shannon, and after destroying \nmany churches were defeated at Glin. \nThey returned, however, and Brian \nBoru expelled them from the islands \nof the Shannon in the eleventh cen- \n\n\n\n\nCathedral of St. Mary. \n\n\n\ntury. In 1106 Murtogh, the son of King Turlogh O\'Brien, transferred the seat of \nroyalty from Cashel to Limerick, and it was held by King Donald O\'Brien when \nHenry II. arrived. In 11 75 Raymond le Gros took it; but it was burned by \nDonald in that year. It was rebuilt soon \n\nafter, and the foreigners again failing to ,\xe2\x96\xa0 >v\' i/\'"\\ \n\ntake it, O\'Brien felt so secure of his me- -" | \n\ntropolis that he built the Cathedral Church \nof St. Mary on the site of his palace. In \n1 195, however, the foreigners were in pos- \nsession, and were again driven out by Mac- \nCarthy of Desmond. In the thirteenth \ncentury King John granted it to his fol- \nlowers, established a mint, and built the \ncastle and bridge, after which English set- \ntlers flocked in. Edward Bruce burned \nthe suburbs in 13 16, and rallying his Irish \nallies held court for several months. Soon \nafter the Irish town was walled round, and St. MungreVs Priory. \n\nduring Elizabeth\'s reign the walls were \n\nfortified by twenty-four towers in the English town, and by twelve towers and \nstrong outworks in the Irish quarter. The Confederates, under Lord Muskerry \n\n\n\n\nLIMERICK. \n\n\n\n555 \n\n\n\nand General Barry, took it in 1642, and the city was represented in the parlia- \nment of Kilkenny. Additional fortifications were then raised, and it became the \nheadquarters of the Catholic forces during the Confederate war. The massive \nand gloomy structure called King John\'s Castle was the centre of romantic and \nheroic transactions in the struggles which took place for centuries, commanding, \nas it did, the only entrance to Limerick over the Shannon. In 1651 the city \nwas besieged by Ireton, the son-in-law of Cromwell, who for six months vainly \nattempted to capture the \ncastle, and lay the town at \nhis mercy. The gallantry \nof the Irish, under Colonel \nHugh O\'Neill, defeated \nthe purpose for a time, \nand would have eventually \ncompelled him to raise the \nsiege, had it not been for \nthe treachery of an Anglo- \nIrish officer of the gar- \nrison, named Fennel, who \nwas subsequently hanged \nby his new friends on a \ncharge of "several mur- \nders." \n\nIn 1690, during the \nwar between William and \nJames, Limerick was \nagain the theatre of more \ndeadly conflicts. After \nthe disaster of the Boyne, \nthe Irish army reinforced \n\nthe garrison of Limerick, to keep communication open with France. Sars- \nfield, though second in command to General Boileau, was the actual leader \nof the besieged. William, flushed with victory, appeared before the city \non August 8th. Limerick showed so stout a front that he ordered from \nDublin a heavy battery train, mortars, ammunition, and pontoons ; but these \nhaving been intercepted by the active Sarsfield, were totally destroyed. A \nbreach, nevertheless, was effected, and an attempt made to take it by storm \n\n\n\n\nTreaty Stone. \n\n\n\n556 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nCarrig-o- Gunnel. \n\n\n\non the 27th of August. The conflict that ensued is one of the most famous \nin history. When the day seemed almost lost to the Irish \xe2\x80\x94 the enemy In \n\ntheir streets, and their \n\n- -:\xe2\x96\xa0\xe2\x96\xa0-; stronghold, the Black \n\n-_^.^^:^" -- ~ Battery, taken after a \n\nbloody struggle by the \nBrandenburgers, the of- \nficers excitedly leading \ntheir men into the path \nof victory \xe2\x80\x94 the crisis ar- \nrived when the foresight \nof the Irish leaders was \nto strike terror and save \nthe city. Preparing for \nsuch an emergency, the \n\nBlack Battery had been mined. The moment had come to spring it. The result \n\nwas terrific. After the fearful pause that followed the explosion, Sarsfield seized \n\nthe opportunity, rallied his broken columns, and, conspicuously at their head, \n\nrenewed the defence, drove the assailants from street to street, and forced them \n\nover the works into the ^^ \n\nriver. Not only did the " "^ \n\ncitizens not in arms enter -"^-i %=*-:-- \n\ninto the conflict, but the - >^^ \n\nwomen and children shared -^w: i. \n\nin the glory of the rescue \n\nof the city. " Many young \n\nand delicately nurtured \n\nladies were found after the \n\ncombat amongst the slain," \n\nby the side of their male \n\nrelatives. Story, a very \n\npartial English historian, \n\nsays of this attack and \n\nrepulse : " The Irish then \n\nventured upon the breach \n\nagain, and from the walls and every place so pestered us upon the counterscarp, \n\nthat after nigh three hours resisting bullets, stones (broken bottles from the very \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nHi/Ill. of Go aid Giiffin \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\'S-!^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\n^f^- \n\n\n\n\n\n\nt* i \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nAzeq\'Ui^nizan Abbey, Adaie \n\n\n\n\\v o m e n, \nwho boldly \nstood in the \nbreach, and \nI were nearer to our men than their own), \nand whatever way could be thought on \nto destro} us, our ammunition being \nspent, It was judged safest to leturn to \nour trenches " \n\nIn August, 1691, the An^lo-Dutch \n557 \n\n\n\n558 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nShannid Castle and Rath. \n\n\n\narmy again appeared before Limerick, which, after a six weelcs\' siege, capitulated \non honorable terms, the Irish chiefs seeing nothing to hope for in prolonged \nresistance. On the 3d of October a treaty was signed, on a large stone near \n\nThomond Bridge, at the Clare side. This \n\n-*%^- treaty has become famous from the in- \n\n=.-,.v,.^^ famous manner in which it was almost \n\n_^._- - immediately violated; hence Limerick is \n\n:- called the city of the violated treaty ; and \nwithin a fewyears back the historic " Treaty \nStone " was elevated to its present posi- \ntion on top of a neat pedestal, in presence \nof the municipal authorities and the as- \nsembled citizens. \n\nIn addition to the old English and \nIrish towns, a new quarter has been added \ncalled the New Town, in which are many of \nthe most attractive streets. In it there are statues of O\'Connell and Lord Mont- \neagle. Of six bridges, two cross the Shannon ; Thomond Bridge, which has been \nrebuilt, and Wellesley Bridge, an elegant structure, on which stands a statue of \nLord Fitz-Gibbon, who fell at Balaklava, and from which fine views can be had of \nthe castle and the old cathedral of St. Mary, from whose tower, one hundred and \ntwenty feet high, peal the sweet-toned bells, associated with the tale of art-feeling,, \nlove, and sorrow, so beautifully \n\nportrayed in McCarthy\'s ballad, -7\xe2\x80\x94:"=\xe2\x80\x94 - \n\n" The Bell-Founder." Below \nthe city is the venerable ruin of \nSt. Mungret\'s Priory, bearing \nevidence of great antiquity, and \nsaid to have been founded by \nSt. Patrick. The Psalter of \nCashel says it contained "forty \ncontemplative sages, five hundred \nlearned preachers, and six hun- \ndred psalmists, who poured forth \n\ndaily to the Lord of Heaven the t-j n, i. ^ u, ^ t ? ^ \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0\' The Black Castle at Lough Gur. \n\ntribute of their praises." \n\nThe country around the city is flat, but the diversity and splendor of the \n\n\n\n\nLIMERICK. \n\n\n\n559 \n\n\n\nenvirons make ample amends for the tameness of the suburbs. For scenes of \nbeauty Hall recommends us to visit Carrig-o-Gunnel, Adare, and Castle Connel. \nAnother English guide (Mr. G. Shaw) says of the latter, " the Shannon here, \nwith a greater volume of water than the four largest rivers of England put \ntogether, rushes headlong for nearly half a mile over and through a vast aggre- \ngation of rocks, presenting a spectacle approaching the sublime." The admirers \nof genius will be led to visit Fairy Lawn, the home of Gerald Grififin, and Shan- \nnid Castle, which is illustrated by his verse ; and the antiquary will be not less \ninterested at the latter than at Lough Gur, Croom, and Kilmallock. \n\nCarrig-o-Gunnel Castle, a few miles west of the city, crowns a high rock, \nrising boldly from an extensive plain, which reaches to the Shannon. It was the \nseat of the O\'Briens, kings of Munster, and was blown up by Ginckle in 1691. \nThe ruins indicate its former import- \nance, a part of the outer wall, which \nremains, being wide enough on top \nfor a coach and four to drive on. \nCarrig-o-Gunnel has a literary inter- \nest also, in having been the birth- \nplace (1719) of a once noted writer, \nCharles Johnston, author of Chry- \nsal, or the Adventures of a G^^inea. \n\nShannid, near the small village \nof Shanagolden, presents some re- \nmarkable features. The grassy hill \nis unconnected with any other eminence, but terminates in a double peak, evi- \ndently artificial, each forming a truncated cone. The northern peak is sur- \nmounted by a castle one hundred and eighty feet in circumference, and covering \nthe whole extent of the platform. The walls are ten feet thick, and in height \nperhaps forty feet. While polygonal exteriorly, it is circular inside, and an \nexternal wall twenty feet high, and but little in advance from it, surrounds the \nstructure. Lower down a deep fosse, six hundred feet in circumference, flanked \nby an earthen rampart, girdles the hill. It was a stronghold of the earls of Des- \nmond, and their war-cry, Shannid aboo, was derived from it. The southern peak \nis crowned by a rath \xe2\x80\x94 an earthen hill fort, surrounded with fosses and ramparts, \nand with the peculiarity of being subdivided into four equal parts by the inter- \nsection of a deep cut through the centre. The castle dates perhaps from the \ntwelfth century ; the rath from far remote ages. \n\n\n\n\nNew Church at Loui^h Gur. \n\n\n\nS6o \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nThe Mass Rock. \n\n\n\nThe whole central district of the county is studded with remains still emphat- \nically speaking of the former power of the Geraldines. A chain of towers may \n\nbe traced in continuous \nsuccession from the \nShannon to Kilmallock, \nindicating their terri- \ntorial supremacy, whilst \ntheir numerous and elab- \norate ecclesiastical struc- \n-"- tures tell of their wealth, \nmunificence, and taste. \n\nAttention may be \nhere directed to the cas- \ntle of Dromore, com- \nmenced in 1865 by the Earl of Limerick, and but recently completed. It is a \nperfect reproduction of a stronghold of the 14th century. It forms a quadrangle, \nentirely of wrought limestone, and occupies a lofty ridge two miles south of the \nShannon. \n\nKilmallock, Askeaton, and Adare, are deservedly objects of pilgrimage. \nThe ruined castle of the Desmonds, the ivy-mantled walls of the stately abbeys, \nthe lonely shades and venerable trees, awaken emotions of the most exquisite \nnature at Adare. The remains \nof three important abbeys are \nstill to be seen\xe2\x80\x94 the abbey of \nthe Holy Trinity, the Augustin- \nian Abbe)^ and the Franciscan \nAbbey. The second, built in \n13 1 5, by John Fitz-Thomas, first \nEarl of Kildare, is a strikingly \npicturesque object. " To the \nnorth of the steeple are some ~ \nbeautiful cloisters with Gothic \nwindows, within which are cor- \nridors, and on most of the win- \ndows are escutcheons with the \n\nEnglish and Saltire crosses ; the workmanship is simply elegant, the principal \nparts being of hewn limestone, which appears so fresh as to give it a modern yet \n\n\n\n\nRound Tower and Rum at Croom \n\n\n\n\nASKEATON ABBEV. \n\n\n\nS62 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nvenerable appearance." The abbey of the Holy Trinity was raised and en- \ndowed by the same founder, for the pious purpose of redeeming Christian \ncaptives from slavery. The abbey at Askeaton, two miles above the confluence \nof the Deel with the Shannon, is beautifully situated near the river. In \naddition to these picturesque remains, there are other influences which com- \nmand romantic interest in this district. Its legends, its vestiges of a far \nolder time than that in which the Geraldines, or even the O\'Briens predomi- \nnated, are numerous. The fairy marvels of Knockfearna and its enchanted \nchief, Donn of Truth, the subaqueous wonders of the palaces of Lough Gur, \nwhere the last of the Desmonds is detained,* are of not less interest than the \ntime-honored fanes of the same lake, and those of a suggestive pagan character \n\nnear Croom. On an island in Lough \nGur, and in its neighborhood, are re- \nmarkable Druidical remains. Here also \nare the ruins of a square keep of the \nDesmonds, and on the southern shore \nthe roofless walls of an old, still called \nNew Church. Not far distant is a \nsingular natural formation, the Mass \nRock. It is full of chasms and hol- \nlows, within which the ceremonies of \nvenerable Christianity were celebrated \nduring the penal times. \n\nNear Croom, in a valley stretching \nfrom the eastern base of Knockfearna, are the remains of a small church, of \nCyclopean structure, whose era belongs to the very earliest period of Christianity \nin Ireland. It is a plain oblong, about forty-six feet long, and eighteen broad. \nTen feet to the north stands a Round Tower, fifty feet high, and fifty feet round \nat the base. The door, with a semicircular head, is sixteen feet from the \nground ; and of the three remaining windows two are lancet, and the other \nround-headed. \n\nKilmallock, deriving its name from a church founded by St. Malloch, who \ndied in the middle of the seventh century, was a place of such distinction, that \nits ruins obtained for it the title of Balbec, or Palmyra of Ireland. Mr. Weld,, \n\n^ The legend is that the last chief of the Desmonds \xe2\x80\x94 always excepting, adds Hall, him who became an "apostate,"\' \nand died in England \xe2\x80\x94 keeps his state under the waters of Lough Gur. He appears armed and accoutred for fight everjr \nseven years, and rides around the shores. When the silver shoes of his steed are worn out, the period of his enchant- \nment will cease, and he will return to his estates and station. \n\n\n\nChinch at KilmallocI \n\n\n\n\nLIMERICK. \n\n\n\n563 \n\n\n\nin 181 2, said, that so far as a contrast between former magnificence and present \nmisery contributed to tlie parallel, it bore a striking resemblance to the remains \nof those once celebrated cities of the East. \n\nKilmallock was the capital of Desmond\'s dominions ; and as he was the most \nwealthy and the most powerful subject in the kingdom, so this, his largest city, \nwas distinguished above every other by the beauty and splendor of its edifices. \nIt is said to have contained numerous castles, churches and abbeys, besides many \nextensive marble palaces ; and the generality of the houses, built of hewn stone, \nwere placed with regularity along the lines of straight and spacious streets. The \nplans of the houses, judging from the description given by Weld seventy years \nago, and by the few that remain, were nearly all alike. They were of three \nstories, and presented two or \nmore gables on the street. The \nentrances, by spacious portals \nwith semicircular arches, opened \ninto small halls, which commu- \nnicated with broader passages, \nwhich doubtless contained the \nstairways, whence the principal \napartments were reached. The \nwindows now seen are square, \nmullioned by uprights or stone \ncrosses. The chimney-pieces are \nlarge and lofty, and the fire- \nplaces calculated for huge piles of wood. "Tradition relates," says Weld, " that \nthe commander of the parliamentary army was so struck with its uncommon \nbeauty, that, contrary to the cruel policy which led to the destruction of every \nfortified tower, castle, and habitation of the Irish, he resolved to spare the place : \nbut afterward learning that nearly all of the inhabitants bore the same name, he \njudged it imprudent to leave so powerful a confederacy in quiet possession of \ntheir property ; and, to strike terror into the enemy, he gave orders to demolish \nthe city."* A lofty wall, strengthened at intervals by towers, defended the city \non every side. There were anciently four great entrances, each protected by a \ncastle. Of the old gateways two remain, and there are also portions of smaller \ntowers remaining, in what exists of the old town walls. Among the other \nantiquities are the Round Tower, the church of St. Peter and Paul, and the \n\n\n\n\nDominican Friary. \n\n\n\n* Weld\'s Killariiey and Surrounding Country, pp. 240-2. \n\n\n\n564 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nDominican Friary. The church has been roofless since its destruction by Crom- \nAvell. The Dominican Friary, in the opinion of the English antiquary, Sir Richard \nHoare, surpassed in "decoration and good sculpture any he had yet seen in Ire- \nland ; " but he thought it not older than the reign of Edward III., fourteenth cen- \ntury. Although it is said Kilmallock was a walled town before the arrival of the \nAno-lo-Normans, and that many of its remains date far back, it is claimed that \n\n\n\n\nTomb of U illiam ^iinth O Biitti. \n\n\n\nmuch of its present ruined magnificence \xe2\x80\x94 the remaining dwellings, for instance \nare of the period of James I., and none of them earlier than that of Elizabeth. \n\nIn suggestive connection with the humiliating picture of the departed grand- \neur of the Desmonds, may be presented the tomb of one of the best and noblest \nscions of a great historic royal house\xe2\x80\x94 that of William Smith O\'Brien, in the \ngraveyard of Rathronan. \n\n\n\n\nCofjirijlit.lSSi.b); Jhomaa.KelJy \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nCopyright ISSO by Tlioinas Kelly. N\xc2\xabw York \n\n\n\nKILDARE. \n\n\n\n\nCarbery Castle. \n\nKiLDARE, an inland county in the province of Leinster, is not remarkable for \nwild or bold scenery, but its most favored localities present those fertile and \npastoral effects which give great pleasure. Its historical associations, however, \nare numerous ; and it abounds in antiquities, pagan and Christian. There are \nRound Towers at Kildare, Castledermot, Old KilcuUen, Killashee, Oughterard, \nand Taghadoe ; and abbey ruins at Kildare, Monastereven, Castledermot, New- \nbridge, Naas, and other localities. Some curious sculptured crosses have been \nfound at Moone. In the twelfth century avast circle of stones, like Stonehenge, \nstood upon the " Curragh of Kildare," a common of 5,000 acres, the\' scene of \nmany a desperate struggle, now devoted to sheep-grazing, horse racing, and a per- \nmanent camp of instruction, with accommodations for 12,000 troops. \n\nKildare owes its name and origin as a district to St Bridget, or Bride. This \nS6s \n\n\n\n566 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\ncelebrated person, in common with St. Patrick and St. Columba, is a patron saint \nof Ireland. Of noble birth, and claiming descent from Conn of the Hundred \nBattles, she was remarkable from early youth for piety and charity. She tended \nher cattle in the fields, and shared all she possessed with the poor. Vowed to \nperpetual virginity, she traversed Ireland, establishing convents in various \nplaces ; but her name is chiefly connected with that " Church of the Oaks," Kil- \ndare, where she founded the most famous convent that ever existed in Ireland. \nShe died at the age of seventy, February ist, 525, and \nwas buried at the side of the altar of the cathedral \nchurch.* The nunnery formed the commencement of \nthe great monastery and the city of Kildare, which grew \n% up around it. St. Conlath, contemporary with St. Bridget, \n^ was the first bishop and founder of the cathedral. Kil- \n^ dare was long celebrated as a seat of learning and sanc- \nM tity, but suffered much in the ninth and tenth centuries \n^ from repeated devastations of the Danes. Soon after \n% the arrival of the Anglo-Normans, the district became \n^E the possession of De Vescy, who built a strong castle. \n^ Ralph de Bristol, consecrated in 1223, was the first En- \n-^ glish Bishop of the See, and he, at great expense, re- \npaired the cathedral. It was again repaired about the \ncommencement of the sixteenth century ; but it was de- \nstroyed, and a part of it levelled by the parliamentary \nartillery in the war of 1641. The walls, and the south \nside of the steeple and nave, which have six Gothic arches \nind buttresses, are still standing. Church services are \nheld in the choir, which has been repaired for the pur- \npose. Thirty yards west of the cathedral stands one of \nthe oldest Round Towers, which presents some notable \ncharacteristics ; among them, a chevron cornice mould- \ning, and battlements at top. Its height is given as one \nhundred and thirty, and its external circumference about fifty-four, feet. The \nlarge arched doorway is fourteen feet from the ground. For twelve feet it is built \nof white granite, and thence upward of blue stone. Near by is an ancient stone cross. \n\n\n\n\nRound Tower and Cross at \nKildare. \n\n\n\n* She was reverenced not only in Ireland, but in Scotland, and the western isles, Hy Brides, are said to have taken \nher name, which was invoked by the islanders to confirm their most solemn oaths. An annual festival was there held in \nher commemoration. \xe2\x80\x94 Ferguson\'s The Irish before the Conquest, p. 165. \n\n\n\nKILDARE. \n\n\' The bright lamp, that shone in Kildare\'s holy fane, \nAnd burn\'d thro\' long ages of darkness and storm,\' \n\n\n\n567 \n\n\n\nAvas kept alive with slight cessation, day and night, for nearly a thousand years \nby the nuns in a small stone structure \xe2\x80\x94 the Fire House \xe2\x80\x94 which still exists. \n\nDe Vescy having fled to France to avoid a single combat with Fitzgerald, \nLord of Offaly, who had accused him of treason, the possessions of the former \nwere conferred on the latter, who became the first earl of Kildare of the Gerald- \nine line. The Kildare branch of the Fitzgeralds very early made one of three \n\n\n\n\nCxtlit. it il f Kil iir \n\nprincipal seats at Maynooth, where the sixth earl erected a strong castle in 1426. \nDuring the rebellion of Silken Thomas, it was taken through treachery, but in \nthe reign of Edward VI. it was restored to the family, in whose hands the town \nremains to this day, Maynooth is situated on the Rye-Water, and consists of \none principal street, at one extremity of which is Carton, the splendid seat of the \nDuke of Leinster, and at the other the Royal College of St. Patrick, the spacious \n\n\n\n568 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nentrance to which is greatly en- \nhanced by having the ivy-clad \ntower of the parish church on one \nside, and on the other the massive \nruins of the ancient castle of the \nGeraldines. Carton was built by \nJames, the twentieth Earl of Kil- \ndare and first duke of Leinster, of \nwhom Lord Edward Fitzgerald \nwas the fifth son. The demesne \noccupies about one thousand acres- \nof the rich table land betweea \nMaynooth and Leixlip ; and the \nmansion, in the Italian style, from \n<^ the south side commands a splen- \n\xe2\x96\xa0:| did view over the thickly wooded \nI; foreground of the demesne, of the \n^ whole range of the Dublin Moun- \nV, tains, and the fine tract lying along- \n:\xc2\xa7 their base. Nothing can afford a \n^ greater contrast than the elegant \n.g placidity of the present home of \n^ the Fitzgeralds, and the feudal \npower and massive strength of \ntheir ancient stronghold at the col- \nlege end of the town. \n\nMaynooth College was founded \nin 1/95 by the Irish Parliament, \nwithout a dissentient voice. It \nwas maintained by an annual grant \nof 8,000/., which was increased to \n8,283/. from 1808 to 1813, and from \nthe latter year to 1845, to 8,928/. \nA special grant of 5,000/. for en- \nlargement of buildings was made \nin 1807. It received in donations \nand bequests, including sums. \n\n\n\nKILDARE. \n\n\n\n569 \n\n\n\nfounded for courses, 31,681/., be- \nsides the foundation of Lord Dun- \nboyne, Catholic bishop of Cork, \nwho subsequently conformed to \nthe Anglican Church, which pro- \nduces 460/. a year. In 1845 the \ncollege was placed on a new foot- \ning, and permanently endowed for \nthe maintenance and education of \nfive hundred students, and of \ntwenty senior scholars on the Dun- \nboyne establishment. The recep- \ntion of a certain number of lay \nstudents was abandoned in 181 7, \nsince which period the college has \nbeen solely directed to the educa- \ntion of Catholic ecclesiastics. The \noriginal inconvenient building was \nenlarged from time to time, and \nan entirely new one, by Pugin, \nerected, the whole forming two \nextensive quadrangles. Another \neminent educational establishment \nis the college at Clongowes Wood, \nopened in 18 14, and directed by \nthe Jesuit Fathers. It is about a \nmile from Clane, forms a spacious \nquadrangle, flanked at the angles \nby lofty towers, and is pleasantly \nsituated in the centre of an ample \nand richly wooded demesne. Here \nThomas Francis Meagher spent \nsix years of his student life, of \nwhich he has left some character- \nistic scenes in his vividly written \n" Personal Recollections." \n\nSix miles west of Kildare is \n\n\n\n\'^ \n\n\n\n\nS70 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nMonastereven, near which is Moore Abbey and the demesne, a large and finely \nwooded tract ascending In a series of low hills from the flat of the bog of Allen. \nThe great hall is lined with Irish oak, and in it was held the Court of Chancery \nby Lord Ely, in 164 1. Of the ruined Abbey of St. Even, after whom the town \nwas named, two strong square towers, and some sculptured ornaments remain. \nIt was a mitred abbey, and the abbot sat as a baron in parliament. South of \nMonastereven, and also on the river Barrow, is the old town of Athy, where \nDonald O\'Brien crossed the river after the battle of Clontarf. It became a fron- \ntier post of the Pale, and was at various times occupied or plundered by the \nAnglo-Normans, the Irish, the army of Bruce, the Confederates, and the Crom- \nwellians. White\'s Castle was built by the Earl of Kildare, in 1506, for its de- \nfence. Between Monastereven and Athy, on the Barrow, is the site of the \nancient city and castle of Rheban, noticed in Ptolemy\'s map as one of the prin- \ncipal inland cities. The district formerly belonged to the principality of Leix ; \nand the castle, which commanded a pass of the river, was for a long period a \nfrontier fort. It was taken by Bruce in 13 15. In the tenth year of James I., the \ncastle and manor fell into the hands of Sir Arthur Savage, who was also possessed \nof the adjacent lands of Churchtown and Miltown. Of this ancient site only a \ndeep quadrangular intrenchment, with a conical mount at its western extremity, \nof late remained. \n\nNaas, the county town, is situated in a well cultivated country, and is sur- \nrounded by many Avell-wooded residences. In the immediate vicinity is a re- \nmarkable pile, called Jigginstown House, which can scarcely be called a ruin, as \nIt Is the one story of an immense structure, commenced, but never finished, by \nthe Earl of Strafford. Naas was in early times the capital of the kings of \nLeinster, and was strongly walled and fortified by the Anglo-Normans. From \nits position in the centre of the Pale, It speedily rose to importance. Parlia- \nment sat here in 141 9. Of course, it had the experiences of all favored or \nfavorable posts during the wars, and was captured by the Cromwellians In 1650. \nThe first demonstration of the nationalists, in \'98, was made in the early morn- \ning of May 24, in an attack which was frustrated by the garrison ; which, owing \nto the receipt of anonymous letters, had been reinforced and prepared for the \nassault. There Is a strong square tower here, and a large moat at the upper \nend of the town. Less than two miles distant Is Punchestown, famous for Its \nannual races, " The Irish Epsom," during the Easter holidays, which attract \nlarge multitudes. \n\nBodenstown, in the barony of North Naas, is one of the pilgrim places of \n\n\n\nKILDARE. \n\n\n\n571 \n\n\n\n\nwc" \n\n\n\npatriotism, for in its ancient graveyard lie the remains of Tlieobald Wolfe Tone. \nFor years his resting-place was unmarked ; but Thomas Davis caused a memorial \nslab to be placed on it. This having been almost removed as relics by travelers, \nadmirers, and patriotic pilgrims, a new slab, protected by an iron railing, was \nerected on the 2 2d of March, 1874, which was made the occasion of a demonstra- \ntion of nationalists, presided over by the pogt, T. D. Sullivan. \n\nThe famous river Boyne has its source :n this county, near the little village \nof Carbery. The hill of Carbery rises to a considerable height above the sur- \nrounding plains, and is rendered additionally conspicuous and interesting by the \ncastle ruins upon it, which Sir William Wilde thought one of the best specimens \nof the castellated mansions of the Stuart era, combining lightness and comfort \nwith strength and durability. It \nwas originally built by the Ber- \nminghams, was plundered and \nburned, and as many times re-edi- \nfied ; and passed, in the sixteenth \ncentury, to the Colieys, the ances- \ntors of the Duke of Wellington. \n\nCelbridge, once famous for the \nlargest woolen factory in Ireland, \nwill be always interesting as the \nplace of residence and death of \none of Swift\'s two " loves," or \n"heroines," Esther Van Homrigh, \nwhom he has celebrated in verse \nas Vanessa. Her father had been Lord Mayor of Dublin in 171 7, and the owner \nof Celbridge Abbey. At his death she removed to the latter to be near Swift, \nfrom which he sought to dissuade her. They had met in London, and an attach- \nment resulted, which is described in his poem, "Cadenus and Vanessa." He is said \nto have spent much time at Celbridge, and a bower on the bank of the Liffey, \nwhich passes through the demesne, is said to have been planned by him. Vanessa \nwas fascinating, brilliant, and proud, and became aware of a rival in Stella. Ago- \nnized by despair and neglect, she wrote to Stella, asking if she was married to the \nDean. The inquiry was handed to him, and, enraged beyond measure, he flew to \n\xe2\x80\xa2Celbridge, threw her letter at her feet, and departed \xe2\x80\x94 never to see her more. \nThis shock, working on nerves excited to the utmost by the tender but unhappy \npassion which consumed her life, broke her heart, and she died in three weeks. \n\n\n\n\nWhile\'s Castle and Athy Bridge. \n\n\n\n572 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nAdjoining Celbridge is Castletown, the splendid mansion of the Connolly \nfamily, situated in an extensive park of stately trees, sloping gently to the river. \nThe Liffey, flowing between Kildare and Dublin, at Leixlip forms a series of \npicturesque falls. Entering a narrow and rocky ravine, about a mile in length, \nthe river frets and forces its way with sparkling effect, and about half-way down \nthe waters are thrown over a broken ledge of rocks, popularly known as the \nSalmon Leap. There is always sufficient water to render the scene interesting \\ \nbut when the river is swollen, and the foaming frenzy of the \nstream heightened, the effect is quite entrancing. It is the \nlowest fall on the beautiful Liffey, which passes through and \nadds to so many wild and delightful scenes. \n\nThe views from the bridge which crosses the river below \nthe cataract are exceedingly attractive. Downwards a fine \n\nreach of about \na mile is seen \nunder the um- \nbrageous trees \nof the de- \nmesne of Lu- \nca n House ; \nand upwards \nin the direc- \ntion of the \n\nLeap the water is seen splashing and sparkling on different levels, occasioned by \nthe mill dams and the confluence of the Rye Water. Leixlip Castle, although \nhaving no architectural pretensions, adds to the eff\'ect of the scene from the \nbridge, and the plantations connected with it adorn the river bank for a consider- \nable distance upwards. The castle dates from the twelfth century, and is said to \nhave been the residence of John while governor of Ireland, under his father \nHenry II. Carton is three miles distant from Leixlip, and in proceeding to it, \nthe Aqueduct, one hundred feet high, which carries the Royal Canal and the \nMidland Great Western Railway over the Valley of the Rye, is passed. \n\nIn the uprising of \'98, the County of Kildare was notably prominent : Mus- \ngrave, the violently bigoted historian, instancing " the infrequent application to \nmagistrates in matters of dispute," and " the abstinence of the lower classes of \npeople from spirituous liquors," as proof of their fitness for rebellion. \n\n\n\n\n\nSalmon Ltap^ Laxhp. \n\n\n\nLONDONDERRY \n\n\n\n\nCity of Londonderry. \n\nThe county of Londonderry was the principal territory of the O\'Cahans, or \nO\'Kanes, a branch of, and tributary to, the O\'Neills, and their chief seat was at \nDeer Park, in the valley of the Roe. When designated shire ground, in the \nreign of Elizabeth, it was intended that Coleraine should be the capital, and the \ncounty was long called the "County of Coleraine." Some suppose that the \nname of Derry is derived from Darini, the designation of the people living be- \ntween the Foyle and Bann, as given by Ptolemy. It is more probable that the \nname of Derry, which applied to the county, was derived from the city which \ngrew up around the abbey founded by St. Columbkille. The place was originally, \n\n573 \n\n\n\n574 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nand is still popularly called Derry, from the Irish Doire, the oak-woods. By the \nancient Irish it was called Doire-Calgach, the oak-wood of Calgach, which subse-* \nquently gave place to Derry-Columbkille. A famous engagement took place here- \non April 24, 1566, when the English under Randolph, having garrisoned the \nCathedral, were taunted to battle by Shane O\'Neill. Randolph was slain, and \nthe powder magazine exploded \xe2\x80\x94 according to popular tradition \xe2\x80\x94 by the miracu- \nlous interposition of St. Columbkille, who, outraged by the desecration of his \nsanctuary, sent a wolf with a blazing brand into it to make it " too hot to hold \nthe English." From this time forth it was their paramount object to secure \nDerry ; but many circumstances prevented its attainment, which so affected \nElizabeth, that in 1599, she wrote impatiently to Essex: "How often haA^e you \nresolved us, that until Loughfoyle and Ballyshannon were planted, there could \nbe no hope of doing service upon the rebels." At length, however. Sir Henry \nDowcra, with a force of 4,000 foot, and 200 horse, in April, 1600, got possessioa \nof the long sought for prize. He thus describes it at the time : "A place in the \nmanner of an island, comprehending within it forty acres of land, whereon were \nthe ruins of an old abbey, a bishop\'s house, two churches, and at one of the ends- \nof it an old castle ; the river called Loughfoyle encompassing it on one side,, \nand a bog, most commonly wett, and not easilie passable, except in two or three \nplaces, dividing it from the maine land." Dowcra at once set to work building \nan " English town," and raising fortifications ; and in seeking the necessary mate- \nrials, not only levied on the natural resources of woods and quarries, but on the \nhouses of inhabitants many miles distant. In his own words, he employed the \n" two ships of warre, with soldiers in them, to coast all alonge the shore for \ntwenty or thirty miles, and willed wheresoever they found any houses, they \nshould bring away the timber and other materials to build withall, and O\'Cane \nhaving awoode lying on the opposite side, with \'plentie of growne birch,\' I dailie \nsent some workmen with a guard to cut it down, and not a sticke of it but was \nwell fought for. A quarry of stone and slatt we found hard bye ; cockle shells to \nmake lyme we discovered infinite plentie in a little iland at the mouth of the \nharbour. With these helps, and the stones and rubbige of the old buildings wee \nfound, wee sett ourselves wholie to fortefying, and framing, and setting up of \nhouses, such as we might be able to live in," etc. In 1608, Sir Cahir O\'Doherty, \nthe young chief of Innishowen, burned this newly built town, and put the gov- \nernor and garrison to the sword. In the next year, however, the lords of the \nprivy council made arrangements with the corporation of London for its rebuild- \ning, which progressed slowly. \n\n\n\n\nL ^^6iA \n\n\n\n576 PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nAfter Hugh O\'Neill and O\'Donnell, princes of Tyrone and Tyrconnell, had \nfallen into the snares laid for them by Mountjoy and his spies, and fled to the \ncontinent, the Plantation of Ulster was vigorously set on foot by James I. The \nsix counties marked out as the prey of the " undertakers " exceeded in length \nand breadth the large English counties of Yorkshire and Lancashire. No part \nof Ireland was more rich in natural fertility and cultivation, and though the bar- \nbarian hand of English rapine had been busy with its teeming fields, it yet bore \nto the " hungry vultures " that awaited its partition, the abundant promise of \nuntold wealth." A company was formed by the guilds of London, for the pur- \npose of colonization, and in 1613 it was incorporated by royal charter as "The \nSociety of the Governor and Assistants of London, of the New Plantation in \nUlster, within the Realm of Ireland." At this period the prefix " London " was \nmade to the old name of Derry. \n\nThe surface of the county varies from the flat alluvial lands along its rivers \nto the wildest mountains. The latter form its central portion, extending in \nvarious chains, chiefly covered with heath, from near the sea-coast to the south- \nern limit. Of these mountains, Sawel, on the Tyrone border, attains an elevation \nof 2,236 feet; Slieve Gullion, 1,730; Carntogher, near the source of the Roe, \n1,521 ; Donald\'s Hill, east of that river, 1,315 ; Benevenagh, the termination of \nthat range toward the sea, 1,260; and Legavannon, between the Roe and the \nFaughan, 1,289. \xe2\x96\xa0^\'^ ^^e vales, or "slacks," as they are here called, amid these \nwild regions, are found spots of great fertility and charming scenery. The \nmost diversified and extensive view in this part of Ireland is that from the sum- \nmit of Benevenagh, near the mouth of the Roe, from which mountain the huge \nmasses of fallen strata form successive terraces descending to the sandy flats \nbounded by Lough Foyle and the ocean. The sea-coast, formed by the Atlantic \nfor twelve miles, from Portrush to Magilligan, and then south-westward for six- \nteen miles by Lough Foyle, exhibits a succession of interesting scenery. The \nprincipal rivers are the Foyle, which washes Londonderry ; the Bann, which \nintersects the liberties of Coleraine ; the Roe, or Red River, which, receiving the \nOwen-reagh at Dungiven, and other streams in its thenceforth northern course, \nwinds through the fertile flat of Newtown-Limavady, and enters Lough Foyle at \nMyroe ; and the Faughan, which falls into the same lough. The Moyola, a con- \nsiderable stream, descends into Lough Neagh. A mile above Coleraine, the \nBann, having borne the overflowings of Lough Neagh for twenty-five miles, falls \n\n* MacNevin\'s Confiscation of Ulster, page 97. \n\n\n\nLONDONDERRY. \n\n\n\n577 \n\n\n\n\nGate of Derry. \n\n\n\nover the salmon leap, a ledge thirteen feet high, where it meets salt water, and \nthence as a broad tidal stream, mingles with the ocean five miles farther. \n\nThe famous city of Derry is situated on the western or Donegal side of the \nPoyle, about five miles above the junction of the \nriver with the Lough ; and is equally remarkable for \nits local advantages and picturesque features. It is \nbuilt on an oval hill, ascending to an elevation of \n119 feet, containing 200 acres, and nearly surrounded \nty the windings of the broad and navigable river. \nViewed from whatever side, Derry is an object of \nattraction, outside of the historic record of gallantry \nassociated with it. Its elevated, and partially insu- \nlated position, its ranges of buildings rising tier above \ntier from the water\'s edge, and terminated by the \ncathedral ; its time-worn battlements, its long bridge, \ncombine to present a novel and striking picture. \n\nThe modern city has far outgrown its natural military boundary, northerly along \nthe bank of the river ; and on the opposite bank, called the Waterside. The \nold walls are still in good preservation ; the gates have been repaired, or rebuilt, \nand some of the bastions which enclosed the old city during the celebrated siege \nare still entire ; to the original four gates two were sub- \nsequently added. The walls, which form a spacious \nterrace, and are now the fashionable promenade, con- \nsist of a thick rampart of earth from twenty to twenty- \nfive feet high, faced with stone, and flanked with bas- \ntions, a parapet breast-high running round them. A \nfew of the guns used defensively during the siege, \nnotably " Roaring Meg," are still honored as memo- \nrials of the gallant stand made on that occasion. The \ncentral western bastion is distinguished by a Doric \ncolumn eighty-one feet high, supporting a statue (by \n\'a John Smith, of Dublin) of George Walker, rector of \nDonoughmore, better known as Governor Walker, \nwho played so vigorously prominent a part in the \ndefence of " the Maiden City " ; and who was subse- \nquently killed at the Boyne. It was the Ferry-gate which the "\'Prentice Boys " \nshut on the approach of Lord Antrim\'s regiment, on the 7th of December, 1688 ; \n\n\n\n\nWalker^ \n\n\n\n578 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nand, by conduct so seemingly rash and desperate, "became the arbiters of the \ndestinies of three kingdoms." History would lead us to believe that the bold \n\'Prentice Boys closed the gates to keep a doubtful garrison in, as much as to keep \nKing James\' army out. Their spirit, however, soon spread, the citizens became \nsoldiers for defence, and the city an asylum for some 30,000 persons. When \nJames himself came, the \'Prentice Boys not only did not open the gates to him, \nbut fired on his troops. The siege lasted one hundred and five days, from i8th \nApril, 1689, to August ist, following, under circumstances of the most harassing \nnature, induced by famine and disease. Still the garrison continued the defence \nwith rigid determination, making desperate sallies, principally from the Bishop\'s \n\ngate, even when, \ntoo much enfee- \nbled by hunger \nto follow up thejr \nsuccesses. Their \nfirst sortie, under \nColonel Adam \nMurray, was \nmade upon the \nFrench and Irish \nat the Mill of \nPennyburn, and \nGeneral Mau- \nmont was slain by \nMurray in a per- \nsonal encounter. \n\nOf the 7,500 men "regimented as a garrison," nearly 3,200 died of fatigue, \nfamine, and disease, and of the survivors i ,000 were not fit for duty. \n\nAbout eight miles up the valley of the Roe, in the deep gorge between Ben- \nbraddagh and Manieeny, lies the town of Dungiven, with its old castle and \nchurch. The latter contains an elegant monument to Coeynagall, a chief of \nthe O\'Canes of the fourteenth century ; and at Camnish, near the town, John \nMitchel was born. From the valley fine views are obtained of the jutting head- \nlands of Benevenagh, Keady, Donald hill, Benbraddagh, with the deep inden- \ntures between, which form a succession of basaltic promontories of great beauty, \ntheir escarpments presenting the same relative position of the limestone and \nbasalt along- the Antrim coast. \n\n\n\n\nPennyburn Mill \n\n\n\n\nCopyrigbt, ISSl, by Thomas Ke]ly,?Cew V-brk \n\n\n\n2imscU d) Slruthers,Eng\'s,]S\\ Y. \n\n\n\n\nCojiytlglit, 186?> by Thoinaa KcUj, J^uw York. \n\n\n\nCLARE. \n\n\n\n\nCoast at Kilkec. \n\n\n\nThe maritime county of Clare is of exceeding interest. From its eastern \nboundary Lough Derg, to Loop Head stretching far into the Atlantic ; from the \nShannon, forming its entire southern boundary, to Galway Bay on the north, the \nsurface presents every diversity, and many natural advantages. Mountainous, with \nan intermixture of marsh and rocky pasture in the east and west, and northeast \nand northwest, its centre and southern part is an undulating plain producing the \nsweetest pasture, and in some districts, of inexhaustible fertility, especially along \nthe Shannon and the Fergus, the estuary of which is five miles wide where it joins \n579 \n\n\n\n58o PICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\nthe greater river. The county presents a remarkable water front, being sur- \nrounded for about four-fifths of its boundary by that element. Counting the \nshores of the Shannon, it has some 120 miles of coast, while the land line on the \nnorth and northeast runs from twenty-five to thirty miles along the county Gal- \nway. It is intersected also by many rivers, the chief being the Fergus, east of \nwhich, in the baronies of Bunratty and Tulla, are a chain of interesting lakes ; \nand others in the north, and west, and south, in the baronies of Inchiquin, Cor- \ncomroe, Ibrickane, and Clonderlaw. In fact, the loughs are very numerous, over \none hundred of them having names, but the majority are small. There are some \nof larger extent, and distinguished for beauty as well as for special attractions to \nthe angler, as Loughs Inchiquin, Inchicronan, Graney, Tadun, Mackanagh, \nO\'Grady, Doo, Fin, Rosroe, Bunny, Cullaun, and others. Besides numerous \npicturesque islands in the Shannon and the estuary of the Fergus, there are \nvarious islets on the coast. From the Fergus to Loop Head, a distance of about \nforty miles, not counting sinuosities, the Clare banks of the Shannon are some- \ntimes bold and precipitous, sometimes flat and grassy. Rounding Loop Head, \nwe face the broad Atlantic, and the coast, which trends upward in a northwest- \nerly direction, is of an extraordinary character, iron bound and rocky, presenting \nthe wonderful results of the warfare carried on for ages between sea and land. \n\nFrom the lighthouse on Loop Head there are magnificent views of all the \nscenery about the mouth of the Shannon on the south, and beyond an unri- \nvalled panorama of cliff and ocean scenery, both as to extent and grandeur, \nincluding the Kerry range, Brandon Hill, Dingle Promontory, and the Magilli- \ncuddy Reeks. On the other, the northern side, by land or water, from the natu- \nral bridges at Ross to the watering-place of Kilkee, thence to Dunbeg, and from \nthat over the exceedingly dangerous coast, not inaptly called Malbay, to Liscanor, \nand forward to the tremendous cliffs of Moher, extending from Hagshead to \nDoolin, a distance of five miles, we encounter a series of sea-made excavations, \ncaverns, gorges, isolated pinnacles, arches and pufifing-holes, among the resound- \ning labyrinths of which the Atlantic riots, and roars, and rages in its might \nagainst the indescribable barriers of the land. The cliffs along this coast vary in \nheight from 100 to 1,000 feet, overhanging their base in many places. It is im- \npossible to conceive the force of the ocean without beholding what its wrath has \neffected on this coast. Mr. Hely Button, in his Statistical Survey of Clare, 1808, \nstates, that cubes of limestone rock, ten and twelve feet in diameter, are thrown \nup on the ledges of rock several feet high near Doolin ; and at the same place \nmay be seen a barrier of water-worn stones, some of them many tons weight, \n\n\n\n582 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthrown above twenty feet high, across a small bay, where fishermen used to land, \nand where their quay remains, many yards from the sea. \n\nThe present county was, at an early period, the principality of Tuath-Mum- \nhan, or Thomond, signifying North Munster, and was possessed by the O\'Logh- \nlins, O\'Garbhs, O\'Connors, MacNamaras, and O\'Briens, the latter exercising \nsupreme authority over the whole, which they held from the date of the earliest \nrecords to a late period. This family fill a large space in the history of the \ncountry. The great Brian (Boru) became king of all Ireland. The Anglo-Nor- \nmans penetrated into the heart of Thomond, marking their progress with barba- \nrous cruelties, especially on the O\'Briens. Donald O\'Brien obtained his kingdom \nof Thomond under Henry III., by paying tribute; but Edward I. granted it \n\n(1275) to Thomas de Clare, \nson of the Earl of Gloucester, \nwho headed a formidable force \nto support his claim. In the \nconflict which ensued, the chief \nof the O\'Briens was slain, but \nhis two sons maintained the \nwar so fiercely, that the new \nsettlers were overthrown, and \nde Clare and his father-in-law \nhaving been compelled to sur- \nrender, the O\'Briens became \nthe acknowledged sovereigns \nof Thomond. \n\nThe de Clares, taking ad- \nvantage of internal differences, sought to maintain their claim ; but Richard \ndied in 13 17, leaving no English successor in the territory. Bunratty and \nClare were the chief settlements of the foreigners and their progeny, and as late \nas 1445 we find the O\'Briens making war upon them. Eventually, all who were \nnot extirpated adopted the manners of the country, and the entire authority \nreverted to the ancient septs, among whom the MacMahons rose into considera- \ntion. In 1565, Thomond, called O\'Brien\'s country, was made shire ground by \nSir Henry Sidney, lord deputy, and called Clare, after its Anglo-Norman grantee. \nThe chief town, Ennis, situated on the Fergus, near the centre of the county, \nis a thriving business place, although its proximity to Limerick interferes perhaps \nwith its progress. It lays claim to great antiquity, which is sustained by some \n\n\n\n\nChapel of St Camin \n\n\n\n584 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nvenerable ruins and relics in it, and the neighborhood. The small remnant of \nthe abbey founded by O\'Brien in 1240, contains a fine window of exquisite work- \nmanship. Two miles north are the ruins of Dromcliffe Church and Round \nTower, and further on, on the shores of Inchicronan, the ruins of the abbey \nfounded by King Donald O\'Brien (1190). The return of O\'Connell to par- \nliament by the famous Clare election of 1828, is commemorated by a colossal \nstatue of " The Liberator," in Ennis, by Mr. Cahill. New Hall, near Ennis, is \n\n\n\n\n\nInchiqum Castle. \n\nthe birthplace of Stephen Joseph Meany, an accomplished publicist, who has been \nprominent in the national cause from the " Repeal " era to the present.* \n\n* Mr. Meany was arrested during the "Young Ireland" movement, and imprisoned for nine months, in 1840-49. \nNineteen years after, during the Fenian movement, he was arrested in London for words spoken in New York, tried in \nDublin, April, 1867, and sentenced to fifteen years penal servitude. He was subsequently released, and directly shipped \nto the United States. When his health permitted he returned temporarily to Europe, and asserted his right, as an \nAmerican citizen, to travel in the British dominions as elsewhere. He was arrested a third time, in August, 18S2. \n\n\n\n\nLION\'S HEAD ROCK. \n\n\n\n586 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nKillaloe, which is approached from Tipperary by a bridge of nineteen arches, \nacross the Shannon, is worthy of a visit. It is very old, and obtained great \ncelebrity as the residence of several kings of Munster, and especially of Brian \nBoru, who held his court, both as king of Munster and as monarch of all Ireland, \nin the palace of Kincora. Of this royal residence, so famed in song and story, \nno vestige remains save a mound or fort, still called Bal-Boru. In the nave of \nthe old cathedral, founded by Donald O\'Brien in 1160, are portions of an older \nchurch, which Brian caused to be repaired. In the same enclosure with the \n\n\n\n\nQtiin .ibbey. \n\n\n\ncathedral stands a still more ancient stone-roofed church ; and on an island below \nthe bridge is another stone-roofed church, exhibiting characteristics of a yet \nhigher antiquity, the stones of which it is constructed being of large size, \nfitted to each other in the Cyclopean or polygonal manner. The doorway, which \nis broader at the base than at the head, is framed of great stones, covered by a \nsingle lintel. With Kincora is associated the memory of the great Brian\'s chief \nbard, Mac Liag, whose " Lament for Kincora," and a few other productions, have \nsurvived to our day. \n\n\n\nCLARE. \n\n\n\n587 \n\n\n\nAn excellent road between the shores of the upper Shannon, which expands \ninto Lough Derg, and the base of Slieve Bernagh, leads from Killaloe to Scariff, \nand displays some fine mountain and lake scenery. About three miles distant \nis the famed Iniscaltra, or Holy Island, the largest of several small islands in the \nlough. Its extent is about twenty-two acres, and it contains the remains of some \nvery ancient structures ; a Round Tower seventy feet high, in good preservation, \nthe ruins of St. Camin\'s chapel (seventh century), and the ruins or debris of \nseven small churches or oratories. \n\nTwenty miles northwest of Ennis is Lake Inchiquin, a beautiful sheet of \nwater, partly surrounded by a sandy beach, and more extensively by groves \nand meadows, shady banks and green uplands ; while on the north a range \nof swelling hills produce an \n\never-welcome effect. On _ _~ -- \xe2\x80\x94 -^ >^^ \n\na small peninsula lying \n-close to the northern shore \nis the ruined castle, filling \nthe whole scene with ro- \nmance, and the crowding \nmemories of feast and fray. \nIt was occupied in 1406 by \nTeigue O\'Brien, prince of \nThomond, by whom it is \nsupposed to have been \nerected. \n\nSouthwest of Ennis is \nthe hamlet of Quin, where are the ruins of a celebrated Franciscan abbey, \nfounded in the fifteenth century by Con MacNamara. It is built of black marble, \nand is deemed one of the finest of its kind by Eraser, and Hall says it is worth \na pilgrimage to see. Going still south, toward the Shannon, are the Cratloe \nwoods, the largest remnant of natural forest existing in this part of the country ; \nand in the neighborhood of the hamlet are two of the solitary keeps, Cratloe \nCastle and Cratloe Beg, without evidence of having had any outworks, which \nwere occupied by the feudatories of the lords paramount. The apartments are \ndark and vaulted, and the walls massive. \n\nA steamboat trip down the Shannon lands us at Kilrush, which is regarded \nas the second town in Clare. Opposite the town, and a mile from the main- \nland, is Inniscattery, undoubtedly the most interesting spot in the lower .Shan- \n\n\n\n\nCratloc Castle \n\n\n\n588 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nInniStaUcry \xe2\x80\x94 Round lower and Ruins. \n\n\n\nnon. In the sixth century it was chosen by St. Senanus as the locaHty for a \nmonastic establishment ; and in addition to the remains of his cathedral, and \nfragments of several small* churches, contains a Round Tower 120 feet hio-h. \n\nMoore has given a poetical \n\ncelebrity to the island by his \n\n^ song, founded on the legend \n\nm given in a metrical life of the \n\nSaint, that the "sainted sod" \n\nshould ne\'er by woman\'s feet \nbe trod, and that he refused to \nreceive even a sister saint, Can- \nnera, "whom an angel had \ntaken to the island for the ex- \npress purpose of introducing- \nher to him." Dr. Ledwich sug- \ngested that St. Senanus was \nthe river Shannon, but O\'Con- \nnor and other antiquarians in- \ndignantly deny the metamorphose. A miserable stone edifice is pointed out as \nthe abode of the saint. \n\nAgain in the extreme western promontory of Clare, we involuntarily revert to \nthe wonders of the coast. The natural bridges at Ross are among its greatest \ncuriosities. The inner bridge, beautifully arched, has a span of 72 feet, and is 49 \nfeet above the water. The other is remarkable, when it is seen that it is as level \nunder the surface as on top, that it is 45 feet span, 30 feet wide, and 9 feet thick, \nand reflect " how impossible it would be for \nman, with all his boasted powers, to con- \nstruct, or for a moment to support so great \na mass." In passing along the dark clifTs, \nthe Amphitheatre, the Puffing Cavern, the \nDiamond Rocks, and other conformations \nattract attention and admiration. In this \ndistrict, at Carrigaholt, was born Eugene \nO\'Curry, the Irish scholar and archaeologist, who has done so much to elucidate \nancient Irish history. Passing the cliffs of Moher, the district of Burren is \nreached, whose antiquities, and those in its neighborhood of Corcomroe, are less \nknown to-day than the famous oysters which are associated with its name. \n\n\n\n\nSt. Senanus\'\' Oratory. \n\n\n\nDOWN. \n\n\n\nDown, a maritime county of Ulster, presents an extensive coast line on the \nIrish Sea, from Belfast on the north to Warren\'s Point, at the head of Carling- \nford Lough, on \nthe south, with \nmany bays be- \ntween, such as \nBangor, Cloghy, \nOuintin, Millin, \nMill-Quarter, \nArdglass harbor, \nKillough, and, \nsweeping north \nand west, round \nSt. John\'s Point, \nthe more exten- \nsive bay of Dun- \nd r u m, which \nname pertains to \nthe series of in- \ndentations on the \ncoast to Cran- \nfield Point, the \n\nsouthern extremity of the county. The sea breaking inland at Killard Point \nforms a channel of six miles to Portaferry, and thence expands into Strangford \nLough, which stretches northward to Newtownards, a distance of fourteen miles, \nforming between it and the sea the long, narrow peninsula of the Ards. Strang- \nford Lough is a deep and safe harbor, but little used, owing to the dangers of \nthe channel and the velocity of the tides. The whole country, says the Survey \nof 1740, Is remarkable for its number of hills, being compared to wooden bowls \ninverted, whence it took the name of Down, a hilly situation. In the south, \n\nhowever, the Mourne mountains are of magnificent extent, occupying the broad \n589 \n\n\n\n\nGrey Abbey, Interior. \n\n\n\n590 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nDcvnpatrick Cathedral. \n\n\n\npeninsula between Dundrum Bay and Carlingford Lough, the peaks forming effect- \n\nive features in the \n\nbeautiful scenery \naround Newry, Nar- \nrow - Water, War- \nren\'s - Point, Ross- \ntrevor, and along \nthe eastern coast to \nCastlewellan, Slieve \nDonard rising to a \nheight of 2,796 feet. \nAmong the most \nelevated summits \nare Eagle Moun- \ntain, 2,084 f^st ; \nSlieve Muck, 2,198 \nfeet ; Slieve Beg, \n\n2,384 feet ; Slieve More, 2,443 feet ; and Slieve Binglan, 2,449 feet. The \n\nmountains are accessible from different points ; \n\nglen roads leading from Hilltown to Ross- \n\ntrevor, Kilkeel, and Newcastle, and another \n\nskirting the whole extent of their seaward base. \n\nThe principal rivers are the Bann and the \n\nLagan ; the former rising in the mountains at \n\nDeer\'s Meadow ; and the latter from two \n\nsources which unite near Waringsford. \n\nOf antiquities the county possesses numer- \nous specimens. There are remarkable cairns \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 one on the summit of Slieve Croob, eighty \n\nyards round ; another near Anadorn, sixty \n\nyards round, and containing a low stone \n\nchamber, in which ashes and human bones were \n\nfound. There are cromlechs at Drumbo, Slid- \n\ndery Ford, Drumgooland, Slieve-na-Griddal, \n\nRathfriland, and Comber. Raths of various \n\nconstruction may be seen at Saintfield, Down- \n\npatrick, Dromore, Donaghadee, and Dundonald ; the first named having a single \n\n\n\n\nRums a/ Alloc/ litdi Chutth \n\n\n\nDOWN. \n\n\n\n591 \n\n\n\n\nAtinaim of Mo<JilU 4bbt} \n\n\n\nrampart and fosse ; the second, eight hundred and ninety-five yards in circuit at \nbase, three ramparts ; the third, six hundred feet round and forty feet high, sur- \nrounded by a rampart and battlement, with a trencli of two branches embracing a \nsquare fort one hundred feet \n\nwide; and the two latter be- -=r:/^i^"^=rS:^^ -^-^i :z^-^/j; \n\ning very lofty, with chambers " ";>-?, j^- \n\nrunning entirely round their \ninterior. There are Round \nTowers at Drumbo and Ma- \nghera; and a third, at Down- \npatrick, was taken down in \n1 790, to make room for a \npart of the cathedral. Mo- \nnastic remains are quite nu- \nmerous, the principal being \nat Downpatrick, Innis Cour- \ncey, Newry, Moville, Grey Abbey, Ballyhalbert, and other places. Castles also \nabound, especially in the eastern portion around Lough Strangford. \n\nDown, with a portion of Antrim, was anciently known as Ullagh, Latinized \nUlidia, which was applied to the whole of Ulster. Ptolemy mentions the \nVohmtii, or Uluntii, as inhabiting this region ; and O\'Dugan\'s Topography \n\nshows that the cen- \ntral parts of Down, \nwith some adjoin \ning parts of Ai~ \nmagh, formed " the \nhead territory of \nUladh," the portion \nof the Red Branch \nKnights of Ulster. \nJohn de Courcey \nmade a settlement \nhere in 11 77, and, \ntaking up his resi- \ndence in Downpatrick, founded several religious establishments. After de \nCourcey had been driven out of Ireland by the de Lacys, the latter obtained \npossession of Ulster. The principal native families of Down were the O\'Nials, \n\n\n\n\nGrty Abbey. \n\n\n\n592 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nMacDunlevys, MacGennises, MacCartans, \nO\'Kellys, MacGilmores. The county con- \ntinued chiefly in possession of the same \nfamilies at the period of the Plantation, with \nthe addition of the Anglo-Norman " families \nof Savage and White, the former of which \nsettled in the peninsula of the Ards, on \nthe eastern side of Strangford Lough, and \nthe latter in the barony of Dufferin, on the \nwestern side of the same gulf " * (Lewis, \nTopog. Diet?). Ancient records show that, \nbefore the 20th of Edward II., there were \ntwo counties, Down and Newtown ; that the \n\n\n\nRuined Ai-ch, Grey Abbey. \n\nArds had at that time separate ju- "" ^r^^S ^ \n\nrisdiction, with sheriffs of its own, \n\nand that Lecale, as within the \n\nPale, held communication with \n\nDublin by sea, the Irish holding \n\nthe mountain passes between it \n\nand Louth. These several juris- \n\n\n\n\n* "The \'Clan Savages of the Ards\' had \nearly effected a settlement, and their predatory at- \ntacks on the natives in various parts, but chiefly on \nthe clan MacGilmore, were felt severely. During \nthe various contentions \xe2\x80\x94 political and religious \xe2\x80\x94 \nin Scotland, multitudes of people came over to \nIreland. The proscribed clan MacGregor (see Sir \nWalter Scott\'s preliminary dissertation to Rob Hoy) \nmigrated here in great numbers, and their descend- \nants are still to be found under the names of Grier, \nGreer, Gregor, etc. The MacKinnons, from Skye, \nare now MacKenna, MacKean, MacCannon, etc. \nMacNish is MacNeice, Menees, Mannis, Monies, \netc. The Cromwellians have transmitted their \nEnglish names, and the settlers from Wales are \nstill known as Welsh, Price (ap Rice), Hughes (ap \nHugh), etc. Irish names were altered to a more \nEnglish euphony, and indeed English names were Killiliej Lastle. \n\nenforced by statute, which explains the origin of \nsome curious patronymics usually said to have originated with foundlings." \xe2\x80\x94 Hall\'s Inland, vol. iii., p. 23. \n\n\n\n\xc2\xa3>01VN. \n\n\n\n593 \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0dictions were evidently con- \nsolidated into one county \nbefore the settlement of \nUlster, under Sir John \nPerrott. Early in the \n\xe2\x96\xa0seventeenth century, the \nfamilies of Montgomery \nand Hamilton got posses- \nsion of the lands of Conn \nO\'Neill, in the Ards, and \nlaid the foundation of their \nfortunes \n\nDownpat \nrick, the coun- \nty seat an an- \n\n\n\ncient and venerable place, \nis built on several hills, and \nis said to be the oldest town \nin Ireland. Though now- \npossessing few traces of \nformer magnificence, the \nearly annalists represent it \nas a place of considerable \nimportance, distinguished \nby the number and splen- \ndor of its monastic estab- \nlishments. Of \nthese, the most \nimportant was \nthe abbey, erect- \n\n\n\n\n\nSl. Caiman\'s Cathedral, Dromore. \n\ned by St. Patrick in the fifth century, on a hill called Dun, granted to him for \n\n\n\n594 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthat purpose by the Christianized chieftain of the \nDal-dicho ; and here, in 493, was interred the body \nof its apostolic founder, who closed his labors in \nthe Abbey of Saul, at the patriarchal age of one \nhundred and twenty. \n\nSt. Patrick, having been repulsed at the Bray \nRiver, in Wicklow, sailed northward, made a short \nstay at Holm-Patrick, near Skerries, to refresh his \ncrew, and continuing his course to Strangford \nLough, landed at Magh-inis, in the present \nbarony of Lecale. An alarm being raised, Dicho, \nthe lord of the place, came with his people, but \nwas at once satisfied that the intruder was no pi- \n_. rate. He \n\n^ =- ^-^ extended \n\nhospital- \nity to Pat- \nrick and \nhis com- \n\n\n\n\n\nRuin at Ardiilass. \n\n\n\n^\'//y// \n\n\n\npanions, and soon, with his family, em- \nbraced the Christian faith. The apostle \ncelebrated the divine mysteries in a \nbarn belonging to Dicho, which was \nhenceforth used as a church, and was. \ncalled Sabhall Padrtiic, or Patrick\'s barn,, \na name still preserved in that of Saul.. \nHaving founded the See of Armagh, \nabout A.D. 455, St. Patrick passed his \nremaining years between that city and \nhis favorite retreat of Saul, where, ac- \ncording to the Annals of Ulster, the \nFour Masters, Ussher, Ware, and Col- \ngan, he died on the 17th of March, a.d., \n493 ; but, according to Dr. Lanigan, in \nA.D. 465. The duration of the apostle\'s \nmission in Ireland, according to the \n\n\n\nreasonmg \n\n\n\nof the latter, would be thirty-three years, instead of sixty ; and his age. \n\n\n\nDOWN. \n\n\n\n595 \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0which the old authorities represent as one hundred and twenty years, is reduced \nto seventy-eight years by Dr. Lanigan. The apostle\'s obsequies continued for \ntwelve days, during which the light of innumerable tapers seemed to turn night \ninto day, and the bishops \nand priests of all Ireland con- \ngregated together on the \noccasion. A fierce contro- \nversy ensued between the \npeople of Down and Armagh, \nfor the possession of his \nvenerated remains, which was \nfinally settled in favor of the \nformer. In Downpatrick, \nalso, were subsequently laid \nthe remains or reliques of \nSaints Bridget and Columbkille \n\n\n\n\nD%indrum Castle. \n\n\n\n" Hi tres in Duno tumulo tumulanter in uno, \nBrigida, Patricius atque Columba pius." \n\nDe Courcey and Bishop Malachy III. largely endowed the abbey, and in 1186, \nat their special request. Pope Urban III. sent a nuncio to translate into shrines \nthe sacred reliques of these saints, which was performed with great solemnity. \nFrom the death of St. Patrick to the eighteenth century, the annals of Down- \npatrick present a series of battles and burnings, incursions and plunderings. \n\nThe cathedral, which shared the fortunes, or \nrather misfortunes of the town, was restored for \ndivine worship in 1790, but was not entirely \ncompleted until 1829, when the tower was fin- \nished. The learned and subtle John Scotus \nErigena, the " most remarkable man that Ire- \nland," says Moore, " or perhaps any other coun- \ntry sent forth in those ages," ninth century, was \nborn here. \n\nHalf a mile from Slieve-na-Griddal, the highest hill (four hundred and four- \nteen feet) in the vicinity, are the holy wells of Struel, which were visited by \npilgrims from all parts of Europe, and are still \xe2\x80\x94 although less extensively \xe2\x80\x94 fre- \nquented at midsummer, for the purification of soul and body. \n\n\n\n\nBridge, Tollyiiiorc Park. \n\n\n\n59^ \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nGoing up the Lagan from Belfast to Lisburn, the trip may be extended to \nHillsborough, Dromore, and Banbridge. Dromore, a very ancient see, was \nfounded by St. Colman, in whose name a new and handsome Catholic cathedral \nhas been erected from designs by Mr. T. Hervey, of Belfast. The style is an \nadaptation from the early French phase of Gothic. In the Anglican cathedral \nrest the remains of Bishop Percy, editor of the Reliqzt.es of Ancient English \nPoetry, wh.o presided over it from 1782 to 181 1. Starting from Belfast on an \nexcursion round the historic coast district of Down, the charming road passes \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n"hit w ^ \n\n\n\nV , , H , k J \n\n\n\nW \'\'\'III \n\nI I ! ! \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0:\'ji \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nTomb of John Mitchcl. \n\nalong the southern shore of Carrickfergus Lough to Bangor. Not far distant \nis the remnant of Knockbreda Church, from which there is a fine view of the \nvalley of the Lagan and the lough. Bangor was founded in 555 by St. Comgall, \nand subsequently was the seat of a school which became one of the most famous \nin Europe ; and from it Alfred selected professors when he founded the Univer- \nsity of Oxford, in the ninth century. Near it is Crawfordsburn, the home of \nSharman Crawford, who, for so many years, in parliament and out of it, advo- \ncated the extension of the " Ulster Tenant-Right " to all Ireland ; and Clande- \nboy, the seat of the accomplished Earl of Dufferin, recently governor-general of \n\n\n\nDOWN. \n\n\n\n597 \n\n\n\nCanada. East of Bangor is the cheerful town of Donaghadee, not more than \ntwenty-two miles from Port Patrick, Scotland, and off the coast are the Copeland \nand other islands. Proceeding from Newtownards, a thriving town at the head \nof Strangford Lough, to Grey Abbey, we diverge a mile or two to visit the \nremains of Moville Monastery, in the cemetery of which the Rev. Archibald \nWarwick, a patriotic Presbyterian clergyman, who was executed in \'98, is buried. \nKeeping the eastern shore of Strangford, southward, we reach Grey Abbey, \nfounded in 1193 by Africa, wife of John de Courcey, and daughter of Godfred, \n\n\n\n\nPulpit from which Mitchel\' s father preached. \n\nking of the Isle of Man. Judging from the extent and character of the ruins, \nit must have been a spacious and imposing edifice. It is a place of favorite re- \nsort from Belfast, and a temple has been erected on the grounds as a retreat for \nvisitors from the vicissitudes of the weather. \n\nThis is about the centre of the Ards, which interesting barony was formerly \ncalled " Altititdo Ultoriivt jiixta marc Oricntale, " the heights of Ulster near the \neastern sea. Although distinguished by the name of "heights," the average \nlevel of this fertile and well populated district does not exceed one hundred feet. \nThe Down Stirvey says, " The Savages, and other English (Anglo-Norman) \n\n\n\n598 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nfamilies settled here under De Courcey, the conqueror of Ulidia, in the twelfth \ncentury, who maintained themselves in a flourishing condition for a considerable \ntime; but in the reign of Edward III., the sept of Hugh Boye O\'Neill, of \nTyrone, drove the Savages out of the greater part of it, and confined them to \nthe south of the peninsula, the Little Ards." MacGeoghegan records that Lord \nLeonard Grey, the deputy, in a northern incursion, in 1537, "entered Lecale and \nthe Ards, against Savage, a nobleman of English extraction, to whom Cox and \nothers give the appellation of a \'degenerate Englishman.\'" It was on this \nexpedition that the lord deputy desecrated the shrine of St. Patrick, which was \none of the charges brought against him on the trial which cost him his head. \nComplaint is made by English writers, that the " Savages," as well as other of \nthe Anglo-Normans, "degenerated into the Irish customs and manners, and were \n\noften in rebellion \nagainst the crown \nof England ; " they \nwere also "as \n\' often engaged in \nbroils and disputes \nbetween each \nother, which in the \nevent, much di- \nm i n i s h e d their \n\nstrength and power," so that at the beginning of Elizabeth\'s reign these disputes \nbeing submitted for arbitration, the lord deputy " then made a division, between \nRoland and Raymond Savage, of several towns and territories in the Ards." \nFurther down on the lough is Ardkeen, one of the most important strongholds \nof the ancient Irish against the rapacity of the Danes. On this point of land, \nnearly surrounded by water, Raymond Savage erected a strong castle, in 11 96, \nwhich became the chief residence of the family. It was besieged in 1567 by \nShane O\'Neill, who was repulsed with such loss that he got no farther south in \nthe Ards. Only the foundations of the castle remain ; the church, on the penin- \nsula, "is a small ancient edifice, and contains several monuments to the family of \nSavage, its original founders." Topog. Diet. Three miles south is the pretty \nlittle town of Portaferry, the only object of interest being, says Doyle\'s Tours in \nUlster, " the old castle of the Savages, the former owners of the town and estate \nof Portaferry." Crossing the sound we reach the beautifully situated town of \nStrangford, with the splendid demesne of Castleward, and in its vicinity four \n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0oil\' Water Castle. \n\n\n\n\xc2\xa3>OWJV. \n\n\n\n599 \n\n\n\n-castles, of the twenty-seven built around the lough. Audley Castle overlooks the \nsound ; to the south is Kilclief Castle, long the residence of the bishops ; Walshe- \ntown Castle lies to the west on the lough, and opposite is Savage\'s Castle, just \nalluded to, at Portaferry. \n\nAt Ardglass, which presents an antique appearance, are the remains of several \nsquare towers, or castles, also a singular building two hundred and forty feet \nlong, and twenty feet wide. On the sea side it has a breast-high battlement, \nwith a terrace to walk on below. On the land side it is fortified by three towers, \nand has sixteen arched stone door-ways, with an equal number of windows, while \non the sea side it has only spike-holes. It is supposed to have been a fortified \nwarehouse built by trading merchants, to protect their goods from the rapacity \nof local chiefs. \n\nD u n d r u m and \xe2\x80\x94 -^ \n\nNewcastle .are water- .^J\'^ST \n\ning places, four miles ~ -^=\' -^\xc2\xbb=^5r_^^ \n\napart, on Dundrum \nBay ; and midway \nbetween, at Sliddery \nFord, there is a fine \ncromlech, and circle \n\xe2\x96\xa0of pillar stones. The \nold castle at Dun- \ndrum adds an artistic \nfeature to the scenery. \n\nIt commands the ford of the estuary that runs up to Blackstaff Bridge, and con- \nsists of a circular keep, surrounded by the ruins of some smaller towers and out- \nworks, of which the barbican is the most perfect. Newcastle has, perhaps, the \nadvantage in being deemed "the queen of northern bathing places." The \nsprightly little village is situated under Slieve Donard, and possesses a \nsafe beach of the finest sand. In this neighborhood is Tollymore Park, the \nplantations of which, watered by the Shimna stream, stretch for more than two \nmiles along the base of Slieve Donard, and for half a mile up its bold acclivities. \n\nFrom the hills of Castlewellan some grand prospects are obtained. On the \nnorth the picturesque hills encircling Slieve Croob, to the east the bay of Dun- \ndrum, and north the valley leading to Downpatrick, while on the south the \nsummits of the Mourne Mountains, in all their varied heights, their relative pro- \nportions, and their grandeur, presenting, in the words of Fraser, such an Alpine \n\n\n\n\nNewry River. \n\n\n\n6oo \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nscene as can only be obtained from these heights, and only equaled in Ireland \nby the Twelve Pins of Bennebeola, when beheld under the most favorable \ncircumstances, and from some of their best points of view. The tourist may \nproceed by the coast road to Kllkeel, the capital of this mountain region, the \nattractions of which will be appreciated by the health seeker as well as by the \nangler ; or take the road on the land side of the mountains to the beautiful \nvillages and scenes on Carlingford Lough, and up the Newry River. \n\nRosstrevor, delightfully placed on a cove off Carlingford Lough, and under \n\n\n\n\nDonous:hmore C! i \n\n\n\nthe beautifully wooded breast of Slieveban (1,595 feet), has been compared to \nKillarney and Glengariff ; and a native writer does not hesitate to give the palm \nto it. What it lacks in wildness it makes up in beautiful seclusion. To use the \nwords of Mr. Inglis, " Nature has certainly done much for Rosstrevor, and art \nenough ;" and Forbes thinks it better calculated for a winter residence for invalids \nthan for summer enjoyment. Two miles distant is Warrenspoint, another charm- \ning spot of growing importance. \n\nBetween Rosstrevor and Warrenspoint, " the bay " has all the appearance of a \nspacious lake, surrounded with woods and mountains, fully justifying its popular \n\n\n\nDOWN. 6or \n\nappellation. On Its shores are numerous villas, in the centre of which rises the \nobelisk to the memory of General Ross, who was killed near Baltimore in 1814, \nand whose previous record of gallantry was dimmed, if not disgraced by his \nassociation with the disreputable Cockburn in the wanton destruction which \nsignalized their brief occupation of the City of Washington in that year. \n\nA noted point of attraction is the Cloughmore, a vast block of granite of \nabout forty tons weight, lying upon a projecting ridge, nine hundred feet up the \nmountain side. " Its peculiar position on the brow of a hill, with a valley be- \ntween it and Slieveban, is not opposed to the idea of its being transported by \nglacial agency ; its enormous weight seems utterly to exclude the notion of its \nbeing placed there by the art of man." It is a favorite resort of pleasure parties \nfrom Rosstrevor and Newry, where after resting, the energetic tourists may pro- \nceed half a mile farther up to the top of the mountains, and be thoroughly \nrepaid in the magnificent panorama that meets the vision : Slieve Donard rising \nnearly as high above Slieveban, as the latter, on which you stand, is above the \nlevel of the sea. \n\nAt a short distance from Warrenspoint, where the Newry-Water is contracted \nby a protruding rock, picturesquely stands Narrow-Water Castle, advantageously \nplaced to defend the pass or exact toll. Following the road, from which views \nof beauty and even grandeur are disclosed, we reach the ancient town of Newry, \nembosomed in hills. A small part lies in Armagh, but the larger portion is built \nupon the steep slope on the Down side of the river. The Four Masters record \nthe founding of a monastery and the planting of a yew tree by St. Patrick, \nfrom which it is said its name (^ait yewe) is derived. In the " Little Green " \ncemetery, High Street, John Mitchel is interred. Formerl)^ a Unitarian Church \noccupied the site, of which only a part of the wall and the pulpit remain. The \nlatter is preserved temporarily under an awning in memory of the patriot\'s father, \na distinguished clergyman who preached, and rests not far from it. On the day \nof Mitchel\'s burial, March 23, 1875, John Martin was borne fainting from the \nscene back to the house whence the remains had been carried. The earthly \nseverance of the comrades was brief. Mr. Martin died within a week, and was \nburied in Donoughmore churchyard, within sight of the school where the life- \nlong friendship of the patriots had commenced half a century before. \n\n\n\nTIPPERARY. \n\n\n\n\nRock and Rttins of Cashel. \n\n\n\nTiPPERARY, an inland county in the province of Munster, is distinguished as \none of the most exuberantly productive counties in Ireland. The surface pre- \nsents a number of extensive fertile tracts of undulating and champaign country, \ndiversified with woods, and separated by mountain ranges, variously graceful and \nrugged, and always picturesque. These ranges are the Galtees (3,000 feet) ; \nKnockmeledown (2,700), on the border of Waterford, and extending westward \ninto Cork ; Slieve-na-man (2,364,) also on the south, looking across the Suir at \nthe Commeraghs ; on the northwest the Keeper Mountains (2,100); northeast \nthe Devil\'s Bit Mountain.^., rising abruptly near Roscrea, and extending in a \nsouthwesterly direction to Burrisoleigh, the highest summit being 1583 feet; on \nthe east the Slieve-ardagh hills. The narrow ridge of Slieve-na-muck, 1,215 \nfeet, extends from the Limerick border to the rear of Tipperary town, and \n\nbetween it and the Galtees is the beautiful glen, or rather valley of Aherlo \n602 \n\n\n\n\nCopjriglit,18S0,by Ttionias Kelly, New York. \n\n\n\nRuasi.-ll & Struthers, Eugr\'s N.Y. \n\n\n\n\nllFfllAll \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0^ \n\n\n\n"^\xe2\x96\xa0..^^ ll Vci/TOi7/e \\ ^ \n\nI K E R R N( \n\nOWNE\\ uDpEP ORMOND \n\n\\,\\ .\xc2\xab \' / i \n\nT \\ J etojiilvl \n\nr^ AND > -^ir \' \\ -^ \n\nI i.m\xc2\xab><:ul a \\ \\42-i2 \' if\'sO\'h <^ \n\nA .R / ji A \\ - -. - ll\\ // \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\nBX-- \n\n\n\nV" \n\n\n\nD cffaI^west \n\n\n\nJ. >\' \n\n\n\nli \n\n\n\n\n\n\nCopyright 1878,Thoinas Kelly.Ncw York. \n\n\n\nTIPPERARY. \n\n\n\n603 \n\n\n\n\nSt. Mary\'s CJiiirch, Clonmel: \n\n\n\n\xe2\x80\xa2watered by the Arra, a tributary of the Suir. The principal rivers are the \nShannon, the expanse of which into Lough Derg forms the northwestern bound- \nary, the Nenagh, which empties into it, the Brosna, whicli partly separates Tip- \nperary from King\'s County, \nand finds its way also into the -&*\'^f \n\nShannon, near the most \nnorthern point of the former \ncounty ; the Nore, which, \nrising east of Killenaule, \nfinds its way in a southeast- \nerly direction, to beautify \nthe county of Kilkenny , \nand lastly, the Suir, which \nis the river of Tipperary. \nThe principal level tract is \nwatered by it, from its rise \nin the Banduff Mountains \nnear Roscrea, to Ardfinnan, \na distance of seventy-six miles, whence it turns north, and, after a few miles, east, \nand flows between Tipperary and Waterford. A large part of this tract \nembraces what, from its surpassing richness, is famed as the " Golden Vale." \nThis magnificent tract spreads through the centre of the county to Its southern \nboundary, with branches reaching to its confines on the east, and over Its confines \non the west. Its general elevation is about four hundred feet; north of Cashel \n\nit varies from three hundred and sixty to four \nhundred and seventy-four feet over sea level. \nOne branch, having the Keeper and Slieve \nPhelim Mountains on its north, extends into \nand across Limerick, to the Shannon. On the \neast it is bounded by a bog, then by the low \nE^ range of the Slieve-ardagh hills, forming the \nKillenaule coal district, which extends from \nFreshford in Kilkenny, eighteen miles south- \nwest, to five miles below Killenaule. These hills are abrupt on the Tipperary \nside, the heights rising from three hundred to six hundred feet over the sub- \njacent plain, which Is terminated on this side by Slieve-na-man, southeast of \nFethard-Tip. On the south the Golden Vale is immediately overlooked by \n\n\n\n\nSt. Patrick\'s Well. \n\n\n\n6o4 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nthe steep and towering heights of Knoclcmeledown, between which and the mag- \nnificent Galtee range on the north, a branch extends westward from Cahir and \nArdfinnan into the valley of the Blackwater, in Cork. The Galtee range, the \nhighest of which is Galtymore (3,008 feet), is more than twenty miles to its ter- \nmination at the river Puncheon, which forms part of the boundary between Tip- \nperary and Cork, and from five to seven in breadth. The wild magnificence of \nthe Galtees is very striking, and their vast groupings present an assemblage of \nthe most interesting features in boldness, freedom of outline, and fertility in \nsome parts, as well as variety of aspect. The Keeper Mountains, and their \n\n\n\n\nCa?-rici;-on-Suir. \n\ndependencies within this county, form a wild, and until recently an almost track- \nless region extending over four hundred and eighty square miles. It will be seen \nthat Tipperary is largely surrounded by mountains of massive grandeur on the \nwest and south, and by lesser ranges of imposing hills across the north and on \nthe east, all pouring their fructifying wealth into, and rising like guardians over \nthe Golden Vale. From Keeper to Roscrea, the Kilnamanagh hills and Devil\'s \nBit Mountains separate the baronies of upper and Lower Ormond from the rest \nof the county ; and north of these to the Shannon, extends a fertile plain of \nsimilar character to the more famous one that spreads in the basin of the Suir. \nThe railway runs through forty miles of the Golden Vale, and although there are \n\n\n\nTIPPERARY. \n\n\n\n605 \n\n\n\n\nCahi7 L istle \n\n\n\ncomparatively few "gentlemen\'s seats" to be seen, it is studded with the ruins \nof castles and churches, indicating that it was inhabited by a numerous and \nwealthy proprietary. It is said one hundred castles are visible from the Rock of \nCasheL* Several of the most \nnoted places in the country, and \nthe most famous group of ruins in \nIreland \xe2\x80\x94 ^Thurles, Holy Cross, \nCashel, Cahir, Ardfinnan, Clon- \nmel, and Carrick \xe2\x80\x94 are seated \nalong the banks of the Suir. Oth- \ner towns of ancient name, or mod- \nern importance, are Tipperary, \nNenagh, Newport, Roscrea, Tem- \nplemore, Burrisoleigh, Killenaule, \nMuUinahone, and Goldenbridge. \nThe county, according to \nPtolemy, was inhabited by the \n\nCoriundii. In the fifth century the southern part, as far as Machari Casil, the \n\nplain of Cashel, was added by ^ngus Mc- \nNafrach, king of Munster, to the territory of \nthe Desii, which held the larger part of \nWaterford ; and the north district was known \nas Oir Mumhan, Ormond, East Munster. \nThe Desii maintained a separate sovereignty \nuntil overpowered by the Anglo-Normans, \nagainst whom they carried on a protracted \nand sanguinary warfare. The principal na- \ntive families, about the period of the invasion, \nwere those of O\'Fogarty, O\'Brien of Ara, \n0\'Kennedy,0\'Carrol, O\'Donaghoe, O\'Dwyer, \nO\'Dea, O\'Meagher, O\'Donegan, O\'Meara, \nO\'Heffernan, O\'Lonergan, etc. The history \nof Tipperary is similar to that of the neigh- \n\nboring counties. O\'Brien of Thomond de- \n\nTxirrct of Cahir Castle. feated Strongbow at Thurles. John put up \n\ncastles at Ardfinnan and Tipperar>^tow n, to protect English authority ; and \n\n* Kilkenny Journal of Archeology, 1851. \n\n\n\n\n6o6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nagain at Thurles, Donald O\'Brien defeated the English. The territories of the \nformer were ravished by the latter, who pushed their forts and castles gradually \nto the Shannon. Upon the general wreck, the two great houses of Fitzgerald \nand Butler \xe2\x80\x94 Desmond and Ormond \xe2\x80\x94 arose, and in their feuds and rivalries con- \ntinued to desolate the country. When Cromwell looked upon the Golden Vale, \nhe said it was a country worth fighting for, and " no county east of the Shannon \nwas more ruthlessly cleared of its inhabitants, or more thoroughly divided "^ \namongst his troops. The county became a Cromwellian plantation, notwith- \nstanding which it grew in time to be irrepressible in its defiant nationality \n\n\n\n\nCahir Castle. \xe2\x80\x94 From southeast. \n\nOf antiquities, there are in the county many raths or earthworks, and the \nRound Towers at Cashel and Roscrea, in good preservation. Remains of castles \nare numerous, among the most notable being those at Nenagh, Thurles, Roscrea, \nCahir, Ardfinnan, and Carrick. Of forty religious foundations, there are some \nfine specimens remaining, those of Athassel, Holy Cross, Hore Abbey, being \nespecially so, while Cashel is pre-eminently the assemblage of ruins in Ireland, \ncombining the attractiveness of ancient art, historical tradition and nature, and \nas much to be explored as Killarney, the Giants\' Causeway, and the pyramidal \nmound of New Grange. \n\n\n\nTIPPERARY. \n\n\n\n607 \n\n\n\n\nTtcbrid Chttfch, Gravt of Gtoffrey Ktating \n\n\n\nClonmel, the chief town of the county, is the head of the Suir navigation, \nand the outlet through which the corn and provision trade of this rich district is \ncarried on with England. It is clean, thriving, and important, and in addition to \nthe usual features of an assize and \n\nlarge corporate town, such as jail, ^^^ \n\ncourt-house,* and the like, presents \nthe more attractive features of large \nflouring-mills, a well endowed gram- \nmar-school, founded in 1685, a cot- \nton factory, and places of worship \nfor more than the usual diversity of \ndenominations in Irish towns. The \nQuakers are noticeably prominent in \nClonmel. The traditional account of \nits origin is, that the most ancient \nsettlers were guided to the locality by \nletting off a swarm of bees. Where \nthe busy insects settled the adventurers built their fort, and named the place \nCluain-Mealla, the plain of honey. A castle, in after times, stood on the site of \n\nthe original fort, and before it \nCromwell sustained the severest \nrepulse he met with in Ireland, \nlosing 2,000 men. The scenery \naround is striking. Behind the \ntown undulating lands rise into \nmountains ; Slieve-na-man on the \nnortheast, while the streets lead- \ning toward the Suir seem to end in \nthe Waterford Mountains. There \nare some ecclesiastical remains, and \nportions of the old walls, and the \nchurch of St. Mary is an ancient \nand picturesque edifice, although the octagonal tower, eighty-four feet in height, \n\n* It was here that Smith O\'Brien and Thomas Francis Meagher, and their associates, were tried and sentenced to \ndeath, in 184S. Their bearing in the dock illustrated the chivalry of their character, and commanded the respect of \ntheir enemies. Alison says, " Their conduct on receiving sentence was at once courageous and dignified ; " and, having \nquoted portions of their speeches on the occasion, adds, " These are noble thoughts, couched in noble language, \nwhich will speak to the hearts of the right-hearted and the generous in every future age." The sentence of death was \nsubsequently commuted to transportation. \xe2\x80\x94 Alison\'s History of Europe, vol. iv. \n\n\n\n\nGolden Bridsre. \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nis a strange restoration, not in keeping with the older style of architecture. It \nwill add to the interest of the locality, to know that Laurence Sterne and the \nCountess of Blessino^ton were \n\n\n\nborn \ntown \ndedicated to \n\n\n\nn Clonmel. Near to the \n\nis one of the holy wells \n\nSt. Patrick, and a \n\n\n\n\nAthassel Abbey. \n\n\n\nfew miles distant the ruins of Don- \n\naghmore Church, associated with \n\nthe earliest period of Christianity \n\nin the country. \n\nPassing the river Anner, which \n\nthe muse of Charles J. Kickham, \n\na native of Mullinahone, has per-. ~^^ \n\npetuated in song, the road east- \nward leads to the gallant old town \n\nof Carrick-on-Suir, where the river \n\nis crossed by an ancient stone bridge. The woolen trade started by the great \n\nDuke of Ormond, in 1670, flourished here until the close of the last century. \n\nFrom either side of the river there are noble \nviews of the valley, and especially is it \nmagnificent from the road leading to the \nlofty acclivities of Slieve-na-man, before \nreaching Glenbower. \n\nFrom Clonmel the tourist may take \nthe road to Ardfinnan, where he will again \nmeet the Suir, and see the ruins of the \ncastle on a precipice overhanging the \nriver ; and thence up to Cahir, or he may \nreach the latter by a direct road west. \nBefore leaving the locality, however, if \nyou be a student of history, and honor the \napplication of industry and erudition, un- \nder adverse circumstances, to the preserva- \ntion of the traditions and facts of a nation\'s \ngrowth and glory, you will visit Tubrid, in \nwhich parish Geoffrey Keating was born, \n\nand in the ruined church of which he was buried more than two centuries ago. \n\n\n\n\nEntrance to Athassel Abbey \n\n\n\n6io \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\nCahir is a well built and handsome town, on the Suir, situated under the east- \nern end of the Galtees, and at the \nbeginning of the rich branch of the \nGolden Vale that lies between them \n- and Knockmeledown. In the ear- \n^^|^j(,^^ Her part of this century the linen \ntrade was in a flourishing condition \nhere, but has decayed. It is a place \nof great antiquity, its ancient name \nbeing Cahir-dujinascaigh, the for- \ntress of the fish - abounding fort, \nwhich indicates that an earthen dun \n\n\n\n\nRock of Cashel, south-east. \n\n\n\n\n\nTower at Cashel. \n\n\n\noccupied the site on which a cahir, stone fort, was subse- \nquently erected. The island on which the castle was \n\nerected by Connor, king of Thomond, in 1142, was the \n\nsite of the fort of the O\'Lonergans, a sept that for ages \n\nheld sway in the district. A curious map in the Pacata \n\nHibernia, presents a view of the fortress when it was \n\nbesieged by the earl of Essex, in 1599. The main \n\nquadrangle, with its keeps, is easily recognizable to-da)-. \n\nThe extensive out- \nworks are flanked by \nseven towers, three of \nwhich are circular. It \n\nhas been repaired, and without injury to its his- \ntorical character or picturesque appearance. \nThe resources of the town and country offer \nmany inducements to the tourist to sojourn \nhere, and enjoy the scenery of the river and \nmountains, the glen of Aherlo, and visit the \nCaves of Mitchelstown, and the remarkable \nrath of Knockgraffon, an artificial mound \nabout seventy feet high, above the summit of \nthe hill on which it was constructed, and at the \nbase of which the foundations of an extensive \ncastle have been traced. \nFurther up the river is the little village of Goldenbridge, pleasantly seated \n\n\n\nEntranct to Co? mac s Chapel \n\n\n\n\n\\; \n\n\n\n\n\n\n"E\' ^"i \n\n\n\nTIPPERARY. \n\n\n\n6ii \n\n\n\non both sides of the Suir, which has been increased in volume by the streams \nfrom the Slieve Phelim Mountains, adding to the effect of the remarkably rich \nand beautifully varied country, through which it flows. The parts of the village \nare connected by an ancient stone bridge, upon which, it is said, William III. \nsigned the charter of Cashel. Several fine demesnes are in the neighborhood, \nin one of which is Athassel Abbey, the remains giving ample evidence of orig- \ninal magnitude and splendor. It was founded in 1200, by Fitz Adelm de Burgo, \nfor the Augustinians, an order celebrated for the beauty and finish of their \nstructures, and whose abbeys in Ireland evince " a style of architectural elegance \nand grandeur but little inferior to their fabrics in England and on the continent." \nWest of Goldenbridge is the old town of Tipperary, from which the county \n\ntakes its name, the situation of \nwhich is remarkably fine, near the \nbase of the Slieve-na-muck, or \nhere called the Tipperary hills, \nnear the opening of the glen of \nAherlo, and with surrounding \nmountain and champaign scen- \nery of a fertile and beautifully \ndiversified character. In the op- \nposite direction, in the equally \nrich and attractive county around \nthe western base of Slieve-na- \nman, is Fethard-Tip, an ancient \nplace, with ruins of fortified walls \nand churches, memories of war \nand peace, refreshed by the Clashaluin stream, which, farther down, joins the \nAnner, the general bearer of all the waters of the district to the Suir. At Brook- \nhill, in the neighborhood of Fethard, was born Michael Doheny, who was "pro- \nclaimed " in \'48 ; a man of vigorous intellect and great talents, whose first twenty \nyears of his life were as remarkable in their unlettered throbbings, as the re- \nmainder were active in the rostrum, at the hustings, and in the journal office. \n\nA few miles north of Goldenbridge, and we are at Cashel \xe2\x80\x94 Cashel of the \nkings. The " city " is insignificant and irregular, and in presence of the Rock \nand ruins, may be easily overlooked. Neither the history of the Rock, nor a \ndescription of the ruins, can be given, only briefly indicated ; suffice it that, for a \nthousand years, Cashel was the seat of regal power, a place of beauty and glory, \n\n\n\n\nThe Tomb of Hitler Magrath. \n\n\n\n6l2 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nand the remains of its royalty and its ecclesiastical magnificence are, as Sir \nWalter vScott said, " such as Ireland may be proud of." \n\nThe Rock, an elevated and detached mass of stratified limestone, is conspicu- \nous for many miles around. Tra- \n\ndition has it, that Satan had bit- \nten it out of Slieve-bloom, which \naccounts for the large gap in the ^j?\' \noutline of that mountain, which ^ \nis called the " Devil\'s Bit." It ^ \nwas called Shee Drum, the fairy Jl \nhill, and its utility as a site for a \nfortress was revealed to King ~ \nCore by two swineherds, who, ?= \nwhile their hogs fed in the woods ^ \nat its base, had a vision of St. \nPatrick comingf to consecrate the \n\n\n\ni\'f\'i \n\n\n\n\nHorc Abbey. \n\n\n\nhill. Core, who ruled Munster when Niall of the nine hostages Avas chief \nmonarch (a.d. 379), built this fort, and the modern name is traced to Ctos, \ntribute, and Ail, rock ; from Core receiving his subsidies thereon. Others \nclaim that the Irish word Caisel is derived from the same Indo-European source \nas the Latin Castellum, and that it was named from the castle or fort on its sum- \nmit. The Round Tower was, of course, the first erected of the present struc- \ntures, and it is very perfect, retaining even its original stone roof. When St. \n\nPatrick visited Cashel, yEngus was king. He \nbecame a convert, and, on his baptism, the \nsaint, planting his crozler, stuck the spike of \nit through the foot of the king, who, in his \nzeal, never complained. The king presided \nsoon after at a synod, at which St. Ailbe Avas \n\'\'\'^|- consecrated by St. Patrick, first bishop of \nCashel. Late in the tenth century, it was \nfortified by Brian Boru, and early in the \ntwelfth, Cormac MacCarthy, king of Munster, \nand archbishop of Cashel, founded the stone- \nroofed church which bears his name, and has \nlong excited the wonder and admiration of ecclesiologists. The annals record \nits consecration in 1134, with great ceremony. There can therefore be no doubt \n\n\n\n\nHore AbbLy Interior \n\n\n\nTIPPER A RY. \n\n\n\n613 \n\n\n\nas to the age of this beautiful church, which is said, on competent authority, " to be \nequal to anything in England or Normandy of the same date." Between the town \nand the chapel stands the large church, a cathedral erected by Donald O\'Brien, who \ndefeated the English, four years later, at Thurles. There are also on the Rock \nthe remains of another later building, supposed to have been a common hall for \nthe vicar\'s choral, and at a short distance a curious cross, judged to be coeval \nwith Cormac\'s chapel. The cathedral is perhaps the finest of the many fine \n\n\n\n\nu. \n\n\n\nAbbey. \n\n\n\nchurches founded by the O\'Briens. It is cruciform, with a huge square tower at \nthe intersection ; and tower and side walls are embattled, for the Rock, as a royal \nresidence and fortress, was often exposed to warfare. In the endless variety and \nbeauty of the capitals in the interior, " may be found work as good and artistic as \nany in Westminster or Notre Dame." The well which supplied the community \nin peace, and garrison in war, is sunk through the solid rock more than one hun- \ndred and fifty feet. Its vicissitudes have been many. In 1498, Gerald, Earl of \n\n\n\n6i4 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nHoly Cross, Interior. \n\n\n\nKildare, angered at the part taken by Archbishop Creagh in his feud with the \nButlers, stormed Cashel, and burned the cathedral. Brought before the king to \natone for the sacrilege, he \nsolemnly swore he "would g \nnot have done it, only he \nthoughtthe archbishop was \ninside." It was urged that W \nall Ireland could not gov- \nern this man ; then said the \nkincr, " he is the man to S \ngovern all Ireland," and ap- ^ \xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x80\x94 ^- \npointed him viceroy. In "^z ~j^~~ \n1647 it was stormed and ^^ ^-E^g \ntaken by the earl of Inch- \niquin, when 3,000 people \n\nwere massacred in cold blood, including twenty priests, many at the altar, whither \nthey had taken sanctuary. In 1570, Elizabeth appointed an apostate, Miler \nMagrath, archbishop, who having "enjoyed the churches\' plunder for sixty years," \nincludingf two wives, died at the aee of one hundred, and was buried in the cathe- \ndral, where his monument is still to be seen. \n\nUnder the Rock is Hore Abbey, or Grey Friar\'s, a fine and interesting ruin, \nin a comparative state of good preservation. It was founded by David Mac- \nCarvill, archbishop of Cashel in 1272, for Cistercians, and endowed with the \n\nrevenues of the Benedictines, who were ex- \npelled by him " out of the abbey of the Rock \nof Cashel, near the cathedral of St. Patrick." \nAt four miles distance is the castle and de- \nmesne of Thomastown, both very beautiful, \nand assured to historic interest as the birth- \nplace of Father Theobald Matthew, the great \napostle of Temperance. \n\nSeven miles north of Cashel, and three \nsouth of Thurles \xe2\x80\x94 in which there are many \nancient remains, including a castle belonging \nto the Knights Templars, several modern con- \nventual institutions, as well as a Catholic college, and a cathedral capable of \nholding 7,000 persons \xe2\x80\x94 is Holy Cross Abbey, second only in interest to Cashel, \n\n\n\n\nThe Monks\' Restinj:-PIan., Holy Qo^s \n\n\n\nTIPPERARY. \n\n\n\n6is \n\n\n\n\nStalactite Curtain, Mitchelstow7i Cave. \n\n\n\nand was founded in the same year as the cathedral on the Rock, by Donagh Car- \n\nbragh O\'Brien, in honor of a portion of the \nholy Cross sent to the founder, by Pope \nPascal II. It is situated on the western \nbank of the Suir, and is a work of great \nelegance and taste, having a beautifully \nJ) groined chapel in the transept, and some \nfine monuments. It was endowed with \npeculiar privileges, and its abbot sat in par- \nliament as earl of Holy Cross. \n\nNenagh, the second town of the county, \nwas a stronghold of the Butlers, but has few \nantiquities. Roscrea, on the northeastern boun- \ndary, owes its origin to the foundation of a \nmonastery in 620, and has some interesting re- \nmains, among them a Round Tower eighty feet \nhigh, having two windows, one arched and one \npointed, fifteen feet from the ground. The \ncaves at Mitchelstown are the most wonderful in Great Britain. \n\nFraser\'s indication of the best locality from which to make an expedition to \nthese remarkable subterranean \npalaces, chambers, and curiosi- \nties may be kept in mind, as \nwell as his brief suggestions, \nwhich will undoubtedly excite \'1 \nthe anxiety of the curious to \nmake a visit to them. About \nmidway between Cahir and Mit- \nchelstown, and six miles from \nClogheen, is a country tavern, \nor " public," at which the tourist \nwill find it advantageous to \n\nsojourn ; as the caves are about Chamber m Middle Cave, Mitchelstown. \n\na mile to the left of it. The new caves were discovered in 1833. \n\nTwo small round hills, composed of the compact gray limestone of the valley, \ndenote the site of the old and new caves. The more easterly, which rises about \n100 feet above the level of the coach road, contains the more recently discovered \n\n\n\n\n6i6 \n\n\n\nPICTURESQUE IRELAND. \n\n\n\n\nEddjard s Bed, Cromlech on Oalttt. More. \n\n\n\nand more interesting cave. Midway up the hill you enter, and the passage from \nthe entrance to the first chamber is loo yards. For ten yards the opening or \ncorridor is only four feet high, and declines at an angle of thirty degrees with \nthe horizon ; descending thence fifteen feet by a ladder, you proceed for eight \nyards along an inclined plane, and on a level for the remainder of the passage. \n\nFrom the foot of the ladder the \nheight varies from four to seven- \nteen feet, and the width averages \nnine feet, the floor of which offers \nmany difficulties, being strewn \nwith large blocks of limestone. \n\nThe passage leads into an \narea between seventy and eighty \nfeet in diameter and thirty feet \nhigh. From this lofty chamber \nthere are several galleries lead- \ning into others of various dimen- \nsions, fifteen of which have been explored. Of these the principal are called \nthe House of Commons, the House of Peers, O\'Leary\'s Cave, O\'Callaghan\'s \nCave, Kingsborough Hall, the Altar Cave, the Closets, the Cellar, and the Gar- \nret. The stalactites depending from the roof of several of these caverns are ex- \nceedingly beautiful, presenting every variety of form and every gradation of \ncolor ; in some places uniting with the stalagmites rising from the floors, and \nforming elegant columns of spar, and in others expanding into transparent \nsurfaces, resembling elegant drapery, tastefully disposed in graceful folds. In \nsome of the chambers the stalagmites rise in the form of massive pyramids, orna- \nmented at the base with successive tiers of crystallizations of the most fanciful \ndesigns, and in others in columns similar to those at the Giants\' Causeway. It \nwould be impossible to describe here the various galleries and chambers, or \nthe splendid effects or forms of the ascending columns of spar, or descend- \ning drapery of stalactites. The cavern explored is eight hundred feet long, \nand about five hundred and seventy in breadth, and the depression of the \nlowest chamber beneath the entrance fifty feet. While in this neighborhood, \nit may be mentioned that the largest cromlech seen by Hall was on Galtee- \nMore ; and on Cromwell Hill, the large and remarkable sepulchral chamber \ncalled Labig yernitiddah, Edward\'s Bed. \n\n\n\nGENERAL I NDEX. \n\n\n\nAbbeys, principal : \n\nAdare, 560. \n\nArdfert, 57. \n\nAskeaton, 560. \n\nBective, 258. \n\nBlack, 546. \n\nCashel, 613. \n\nClare-Galway, 238 \n\nCong, 583. \n\nDevinish, 488. \n\nDonegal, 385, 515. See Annals. \n\nDownpatrick, 590, 593. \n\nDunbrody, 501. \xe2\x80\xa2 \n\nFerns, 501, 508. \n\nHoly Cross, 615. \n\nInnisherkin, 465. \n\nJerpoint, 541. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Kilkenny (St. Canice\'s), 545. \n\nKillaloe, 586. \n\nLimerick, 534. \n\nMoyne, 400. \n\nMuckross, 14, 15. \n\nMultifernam, 287. \n\nPeter and Paul (Meath). 251, 258. \n\nQuin, 586. \n\nRosserk, 400. \n\nSaul, 594. \n\nSlane, 265, 272. \n\nSligo, 510. \n\nSt. John\'s (Priory) Kilkenny, 546. \n\nTintern, 499, 500, 541. \n\nAbingdon, 552. \n\nAcademy, Royal Hibernian, founded, 331. \n\nRoyal Irish, 266 ; excavation of Dowth, 282 ; Usn- \n\nneach, 289. \nAchill. 3S2. \n\ncliffs of, 399. \n\nisland, extent, character of the houses, Protestant \n\nmission on, 399. \nAct of Settlement, 428. \nAdamnanus, St., 263. \n\nholds a synod at Lusk, 303. \n\nAdams, Prof. Leith, on bone caves, 530, \nAdare, 557-559- \n\ncastle, and abbeys at, 560. \n\nAdrigool Cataract, 467. \n\n-\xe2\x80\xa2Engus Kelideus, litany of, 434. \n\n^ngus McNafrach, king, 605. \n\n\n\n^ngus McNafrach, king, baptized by St. Patrick at Cashel, \n612. \n\npresides at a Synod, 612. \n\nAfrica, wife of de Courcey, founded Grey Abbey, 597. \nAghadoe, bishop\'s chair at, 17. \n\nRound Tower at, 17. \n\nremains at, 17. \n\nAghmore, 51. \nAglish, 530. \nAgnew\'s hill, 131. \nAherlo valley, 602-610. \n\nAilbe, St., consecrated first bishop of Cashel by St. Pat- \nrick, 612. \nAileach, Grianan of, 518. \n\nAinsworth, W., description of Ballybunian Caves, 56. \nAlbert memorial, Belfast, 118. \n\nmemorial, Dublin, by Foley, 367. \n\nAldfrid, Saxon king, educated in Ireland, his poem on, \n\n248. \nAlexander III., Pope, bull on Glendalough, 86. \nAlfred, founded Oxford and selected professors from Bangor, \n\n596- \nAlison, sir A., historian, on patriots of \'48, 607. \nAllen, Bog of, 471 ; lough, 487 ; rivers rise in, 471; road \n\nthrough bog, 471. \nAllibone, Dictionary of Authors^ 359. \nAltadaven glen, 536. \nAltadore, 102. \n\nAmtrican Fenians in Ireland, 339. \nAmeiican Tourist, on Dublin city, 326. \nAmoretti, Spenser, 456. \nAncient MSS. in Trinity College, 370. \n\nmonument to St. Patrick\'s nephew, 242. \n\nAndrews, Michael, linen trade, 120. \n\nAngler in Ireland, the, describes Roundstone, 215. \n\nAnglo-Normans, first expedition landed at Wexford, 497 ; \nfirst treaty with MacMurrogh, 506 ; cruelty at \nWaterford, 533 ; efforts at Limerick. 554 ; incursion \ninto Connaught. 179 ; adopt Irish surnames and \ntitles, 53S ; families in Antrim, 122. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Thierry on, 122. \n\nAngulo, or Nangle, Gilbert de, 249 ; Jocelyn, 249. \n\nAnnakeen, castle of undressed stone, 243. \n\nAnnals of Clonmacnoise, 481. \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 ^ \xe2\x80\x94 of Donegal, 385. \n\nof Innisfallen, 32. \n\nThe Four Masters, 495 ; compiled in Donegal ab- \n\ntiey, 515 ; extent of, 515. \n\n617 \n\n\n\n6i8 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nAnnals on St. Brendan, 60. \n\non Cathal Crovdearg O\'Conor, 238 \n\non king Cormac, 276. \n\non the death of St. Patrick, 594. \n\non Newry, 601. \n\noriginals in Royal Irish Academy, 37S. \n\nAnnamoe river, 76. \n\nAnne, queen, portrait of, 379. \nAntisell, Dr. Thomas, 337. \n\nAntrim, county of, log ; features of, 109-110 ; Dr. \nDrummond on geological character of, 130. \n\nCoast of, 110; road on, 133; cliffs, ports and capes \n\nof, 146, 154 ; caves in, 166, 167 ; Fata Morgana \non, 171. \n\ntown of, founded, 176 ; battle at, 176. \n\nApprentices\' fatal demonstration in Dublin, 313. \nAqueduct over the Rye Valley, 572. \n\nAquila, Don John de, lands with the Spaniards at Kinsale, \n\n445- \nArchdall, 2S7, 472. \n\nArchdeacon, John, his wife\'s enterprise and economy, 415. \nArchcEologia Hibernica (Wakeman), 7. \nArchitecture, military, Carrickfergus castle, 120 ; Trim \n\ncastle, 252. \nArdagh, old house, 492. \nAida iVd?nhid. 414. \nArdbear harbor, 21S-219. \nArdee, 490. \n\nArderin, summit of Slieve Bloom, 479. \nArdfert abbey, 57. \nArdfinnan, 603 ; castle, 606-60S. \nArdglass, towns and fortification at, 599. \nArdgroome, 406. \nArdkeen, ancient church, 59S ; besieged by Shane -O\'Neill, \n\n598. \nArd-Macha, 473. \nArdmore. fishing village, 529. \n\nRound Tower and Holy Well, 530. \n\nArdmulchan ruins, 271-272, \n\nArds, peninsula, 589, 592, 597. \n\nseparate jurisdiction, 592. \n\ntowns in, divided between Roland and Raymond Sav- \n\nage, 598. \nArklow, town of, 107 ; battle of, 107 ; Father Murphy \n\nkilled at, 107. \nArmagh, county of. 473. \nthe primatial see founded, 594 ; its colleges, 474. \n\ncity of, 474 ; Catholic cathedral of, 474 \n\nBrian Boru, his son and kinsmen buried in, 475. \n\nArmoy, tower at, 139. \n\nArran, 177, 204. \n\nearl of, portrait of, 379. \n\nIslands, visited by St. Ibar, St. Enda, St. Benignus, \n\nSt. Brecan. 1SS-190. \nvisit of Ethnological section of British Association to, \n\n187. \n\nforts on, 187 ; discussion of objects on, iSS. \n\nArt, ancient Irish, specimens of, Adare abbeys, 560 ; Clon- \nmacnoise, 472 ; combination of old Irish and new \nAnglo-Norman ideas examplified, 501; Glendalough, \n\n\n\n88 ; Kilmallock, 564 ; Irish decorative, 241 ; Book \n\nof Kells, 267, 270 ; Cross of Cong, 3S7 ; font at \n\nClonard, 250. \nArtemidorus, Intro., i. \nArtificial caves described, 390. \nArtramont, 507. \nAshford demesne, 388. \nAshton, sir Arthur, holds Drogheda, 493. \nAskeaton, 560. \nAthassel abbey, 606, 611. \nAthencEiim , London, on New Grange, 2S1. \nAthenry, 244. \nAthlacca, 552. \nAthlone, 2S9 ; its military importance, 47S ; sieges of \n\n478. \nAthlumney castle, 259. \nAthy and castle, 570, 571. \nAudelys (Audleys), 122. \nAudley castle, 599. \nAughalard castle, 383. \nAughavanagh, 83, 102. \n\nAughnanure, ancient yew at, 192 ; castle, 192. \nAughrim, 243. \n\nbattle of, 47S. \n\nriver (Avonbeg), 106. \n\nAugustinian monastery, Ferns, 50S, \nAustria, empress of, visits Meath, 2S4. \nAvoca, 79; vale of, 103, 107. \nAvonbeg river, 83, 103, 106. \n\nAvondale, 103 ; description of, by Carr, 103. \n\nAvonmore, 79, S3, 103. \n\nAwbeg, Spenser\'s "gentle MuUa," 409. \n\n\n\nBag-an-Bun, where the first Anglo-Normans landed. 407. \n\nBagnalstown, 403. \n\nBailey Light-house, Howth, 304. \n\nBailie, Thomas, his tapestry, 371. \n\n" Balbec of Ireland," 562. \n\nBalbriggan, battle of, 299. \n\nBalch, W. S. , description of ascent of Mangerton by. 45. \n\nBaldoyle village, 306. \n\nBald, Mr., engineer, 124. \n\nBaldwin, provost, 546. \n\nBalfe, Michael W., memorial window to, 3^1. \n\nFarrell\'s bust of, 376. \n\nBallina, 390. \n\n\n\nfishing district, 212. \n\n\n\nBallinacor, S3. \n\nBallinahinch, 2 \n\nBallinatray, 523. \n\nBallinasloe, 243. \n\nBallincollig castle, 440. \n\nBallinhassig, 444. \n\nBallintoy, 143. \n\nBallintra, 487. \n\nBallyarthur, 103. \n\nBallybeg, abbey and round tower, 454, \n\nBallybunian. caves of, 55. \n\nBallycarry, 124. \n\ndesmesne, 95. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n619 \n\n\n\nBallycastle, 124. 133, 137 ; built up by Hugh Boyd, 138 ; \n\ncollieries atj 13S. \nBallydcnell, 487. \nBallyhalbert, ruins, 591. \nBallyhaunis, 382. \nBallymahon, 291. \nBallymena, 120, 172 ; Rath, 174. \nBallymoney, 172. \nBallymoon, royal residence, 402. \nBallymore-Eustace, loS. \nBallymurtagh mines, 104. \nBally sadare, 511. \nBallyshannon, 516. \n\nBallyspellin spa, 547 ; Dr. Sheridan\'s lines on, 548. \nBallyteague castle, 505. \nBallyteigue (sea) lough, 499. \nBaltimore, 462. \nBanagher, 471. \nBandon town, bigotry of, 446 ; inscription on, and Swift\'s \n\naddition, 446. \n\nriver, 446, 461. \n\nBangor, school of ; professors for Oxford selected from, \n\n596. \nBanim, John, 54b. \n\nBank of Ireland \xe2\x80\x94 Old Parliament House \xe2\x80\x94 notice of, 370. \nBanks, sir Joseph, on Fingal\'s Cave, Staffa, i65. \nBann, source of, 590. \nBannow abbey, 499. \n\ntown buried by the sand, 499. \n\nbay, 499, 500. \n\nBantry, scenery of, 466. \n\nFrench expedition to, 468. \n\nBar-an-oran quarries, 198. \nBardic conventions, 444. \nBards, 247. \n\nBargy. See Forth. \n\ncastle, 504. \n\nBarnesmore Gap described, 514. 515. \nBarnewall, sir Christopher, 303. \nBarons and baronies established, 249. \nBarret, Richard, prosecuted, 335. \nBarretts, Ballincoilig, 427. \n\nBarrow river, rise of, 471 ; meets the Suir, 501, 506, 537, \n570. \n\ntowns on, 403. \n\nBarry, 414, 427. \n\nConfederate general, 427. \n\nDavid de, tomb of, 454. \n\nGerald. {See Giraldus Cambrensis.\') \n\nJames, painter, 376 ; his birthplace, 432. \n\nBarry\'s court. 414. \n\nBarter, Dr., St. Ann\'s, 452. \n\nBartlett, W. H., artist, on the beauty of Glengariff, 468 ; his \n\nIreland, 128, t\\.c., passim. \nBasaltic formations, extent of, in Ulster, 164. \n\npromontories in Londonderry, 578. \n\n"Battle of the Diamond," 476. \n\nBeaumont, Gustave de, on natural resources of Ireland, \n\nIntro., xii. \nBeauparc demesne, 272. \n\n\n\nBeauties of the Boyne, and its Ti ibtitary, the Blackwater, \nthe, by Sir William R. Wilde, 246. {See Wilde, j*aj-- \nsivi.^ \n\nBective monastery, 258 ; Wilde on, 259 \n\nBede, the Venerable, Intro., i. \n\nBeg-inis, light-house on, 54. \n\nBehnes, sculptor, 376. \n\nBelfast, situation of, no ; a modern town, no ; old places \nin, III ; growth of in; dry docks, etc., 113.; print- \ning introduced, 114 ; educational institutions in, \n114 ; general impression of, 114. \n\nBellevue demesne, 74. \n\nBellinter, 265. \n\nBelmullet, 390. \n\nBeltinne or Bealtaine, 264. \n\nBen-an-Danaan, 145. \n\nBeii-Edair (Howth), 296. \n\nBengore, 146, 150. \n\nBenlevi, 390. \n\nBenmore, r34. \n\nBennan (Benignus), St., 264, 265. \n\nchurch of, igo. \n\nBennebola, Twelve Pins of, 194, 196 ; heights of, 198 ; \nview from, Igg ; described, 206 ; their extent, 206 ; \nForbes on, 206 ; O\'Flaherty on, 207 ; heights of \nprincipal summits, 208 ; Dr. Mackey on the plants \nof, 208 ; view from Clifden, 220 ; finest views of, \n226 ; Mourne mountains compared to, 600. \n\nBennett, Bishop, tomb of, 415. \n\nBennett\'s Bridge, 549. \n\nBen-scalp-diva, view from., 200. \n\nBeola, 200. \n\nBere Island, 467. \n\nBeresford, lord J. G. , primate, re-edifies Armagh Cathedral, \n474- \n\nBerger, Dr., on the geology of Rathlin, 148. \n\nBerkeley, George, bishop, 414. \n\ngifts to Yale and Harvard, 414, 546 ; his birthplace, \n\n550. \n\nearl, portrait of, 379. \n\nBermingham, 180, 290, 571. \n\nTower, 363 ; escapes from, 363. \n\nBernard, St., illustrated MS. of, in Mount Melleray, 528. \n\nBertraghboy bay, 206, 210, 215. \n\nBerwick, president Queen\'s College, Galway, report of, \n\n1S5. \nBishop\'s chair, Aghadoe, 17. \nBissett, 132. \n\nBlack abbey (Kilkenny), 546. \nBlack castle (Lough Gur), 558. 562. \nBlackrock castle, notice of, 419 ; corporate customs at, \n\n419. \nBlack Sea harbor, 396. \nBlack\'s Guide, 218, etc., passim. \nBlackstafI bridge, 599. \nBlack valley, 22. \nBlackwater (Munster), course of, 406, 408, 522, 523. \n\ntributary of the Boyne, 259-264. \n\nsource and course, 266. \n\n(Ulster), 475. \n\n\n\n620 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nBlackwood\' s Magazine, St. Brendan, 60. \nBlairs castle, 431. \nBlake, 180. \n\nadmiral, 445. \n\nThomas, 232. \n\nBlarney, route to, 448. \n\ncastle and groves of, 44S, 450 ; notice of, 450. \n\nStone, 450 ; kissing it, 451. \n\n"Blarney," Father Prout on, 450. \nBlaskets, the, 54. \nBlessington, loS. \n\ncountess of, 608. \n\n" Blind loughs," 235. \nBloody Foreland, 514. \nBlundel, 180. \n\nBoate, Natural History of Ireland, 538. \n\nBodenstown \xe2\x80\x94 grave of Tone, 571 ; memorial to, 571. \n\nBodkin, 180. \n\nBoece \xe2\x80\x94 Boetius, bishop, founder of Monasterboice, 495. \n\nBog, Allen, 471 ; moving, at Dunmore, 234. \n\nBohernabreena, 379. \n\nBoileau, general, 555. \n\nBond, Oliver, patriot, executed, 323 ; buried, 360, 361. \n\nBonmahon, 531. \n\nBoyd, captain, monument to, 350. \n\nHugh, of Ballycastle, 138. \n\nBook of Armagh, 370. \n\nof Dimna, 370. \n\nof Kells; opinion of Westwoodand O\'Neill on, 267, 270. \n\nof Lismore, 264. \n\nof Rights, quoted, 264. \n\nBorris, 403. \n\nBouUaye le Gouz, M., quoted, 436. \nBoyle, earl of Cork, monument to, 350. \n\nRobert, philosopher, 529. \n\nfamily, tombs of, in Youghal, 439. \n\nBoyletown, 47S. \n\nBoyne and its banks, 246. \n\nits course, castles and scenery, 246, 471, 571 ; histori- \ncal importance of, 247 ; discoveries on the banks, \n266 ; Rhine-like characteristics of, 272. \n\nbattle of, James\' headquarters before, 491 ; William \n\nbefore, 491. \n\nviaduct, 494. \n\nBrady, Dr. Nicholas, the Psalms, 446. \n\nBranach, 538. \n\nBrandon\'s, lord, cottage, 22. \n\nBray, town of, 65. \n\nupper and lower loughs, 78. \n\nBray-head, 64. \n\ntunnel through, 67, 293, 380. \n\nBrecan, St., tomb of igo. \nBregia, 248. \n\nBrehons, 247. \n\nBrenan, Joseph, 337. \n\nBrendan, St., " The Voyager," 58 ; the voyages of. 59, 60 ; \nD. F. McCarthy\'s poem on, 58 ; Montalembert on, \n59 ; Otway on, 60 ; versions of, by Otway, Vora- \nginias, Wynkin de Worde, etc., 60 ; French version \nof, 60 ; search for Hy-Brasail, 191. \n\n\n\nBrendan\'s land, 60. \n\nsea of, 60. \n\nBrewer, J. N., on the Devil\'s Glen, 97 ; on city of Dublin. \n328, passim, 351, 541, 547, etc. \n\nBrian Boru, king, 238 ; takes hostages from Cork and Lis- \nmore, 423 ; expelled the Danes from the Shannon, \n554 ; king of all Ireland, 582 ; holds court at Kin- \ncora, Killaloe, 586 ; fortifies Cashel, 612 ; slain, \n307 ; his body rested at Duleek, 283 ; brought to \nArmagh cathedral, 475 . \n\nBridget, St. . established convents, founded Kildare, 566; \nrevered in Scotland, 566 ; relics in Downpatrick, \n595- \n\nBristol, Ralph de, bishop, 566. \n\nBritish Association in Dublin, 295, 502. \n\nBrittas, 108. \n\nBroadhaven, Stags of, 383. \n\nBroad lough, gS. \n\nBrodar, slays king Brian, 307. \n\nBroghill, lord, defeats Muskerry at Knockniclasky, 37 ; \ncaptures Blarney Castle, 450. \n\nBromius, bishop, 386. \n\nBrooke, sir Basil, 516. \n\nBrowne, 180. \n\nBrown, George, apostate, archbishop of Dublin, 344. \n\nBrownhall demesne, 516. \n\nBruce, Edward, lands at Olderfieet and captures Carrick- \nfergus, 122 ; crowned at Dundalk, 490 ; defeats \nRoger Mortimer at Kells, 267; arrives at Dublin, \n310. \n\nRobert, seeks refuge on Rathlin Island, 147 ; lesson \n\nfrom the spider, 147 ; takes Rheban, 570. \n\nWilliam de, son-in-law of Strongbow, 479. \n\nBruce\'s Castle, 147. \n\nBruff, 552. \n\nBrugh-na-Boinne, pagan royal cemetery, 247, 276 ; its ex- \ntent, 27S. \n\nBrunei, Mr., engineer, 67. \n\nBryce, James, Jr., Geological Notes on the concavity of the \nGiant\'s Causeway, 163. \n\nBuddhism in Ireland, 239. \n\nBundoran, watering place, 516. \n\nBunowen, 215, 39S. \n\nBunratty, 582. \n\nBurgess, Wm., architect, 433. \n\nBurgo, Fitz Adelm de, founds Athassel Abbey, 6n. \n\nWilliam de, 179 ; adopts Irish customs, 179. \n\nearl of Ulster assassinated, 122. \n\nRichard de, 478. \n\nUlick de, founder of the Clan-Rickard, 243. \n\nBurke, sir Bernard, 375 ; on Cong, 3S8. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Edmund, his birthplace, 359 ; boyhood, 458 ; Foley\'s \n\nstatue of, 366, 369. \nBurkes, 236. \n\nBurren, its antiquities and oysters, 58S. \nBurrishoole Abbey, 398. \nBurrisoleigh, 602, 605. \nBushmills, whisky of, 16S. \nButler, James, purchases Kilkenny castle, 544. \n\nsir John, 505. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n621 \n\n\n\nButler, Pierce, eighth earl of Ormond, 539 ; founded Gram- \nmar School, Kilkenny, 546. \n\nsir Walter, governor of Kilkenny, his reply to \n\nCromwell, 544. \n\n(Ormond), house of, 606. \n\nmonuments to, 53S, 542. \n\nRev. Dr., rector of Trim, 271. \n\nButt, Isaac, founded the Home Rule party, 339. 430. \n\nButtevant, 454. \n\nButts Cross, the, Kilkenny, 546, 547. \n\nCahill, Mr., sculptor, 584. \n\nCahir, castle and town, 606, 608, 6io. \n\nCahirciveen, 51. \n\nCaillemote, Williamite leader, 2S3. \n\nCaledon, 475. \n\nCallan, 539. \n\nCallanan, J. J., poem on Gougane Barra, 460. \n\nCampus Brigantiuin, 24S. \n\nCanals, 327, 4S7. \n\nGrand, 2S6, 31S, 342. \n\nRoyal, 286 ; incorporated, 322, 342, 572. \n\nCannera, St., refused permission to land on Scattery Is- \nland, 58S. \n\nCannistown, choir arch, 265. \nCape Clear, 464. \nCappoquin, 40S, 522, 52S. \nCarbery, village and castle, 565, 571. \n\nwest, 423. \n\nCarew, sir George, President of Munster, 427. \n\nsir Peter, 84. \n\nCargin, 243. \n\nCarlingford, 490 ; abbey, 491. \n\nlough, 5go, 600, 601. \n\nCarleton, William, 536. \n\nCarlisle, earl of, opens Irish National Gallery. 338 ; statue \n\nof, 378. \nCarlow, county of, 401. \n\nsmall inland county, 401 ; general face of, 402 ; moun- \n\ntains on border, 401 ; ancient principality of Hy- \nkinsellagh, 402. \n\nearly castles built in, 403. \n\nnotice of Carlow castle, 403. \n\npartially destroyed, 404. \n\ntown, chief features of, 403. \n\ncathedral, 403. \n\ncollege, 403. \n\nCarnlea, 132. \nCarnlough, 129. \nCarnsore Point, 499. \nCarntown castle, 492. \n\nCarolan, the Bard, monument to, 350. \n\nCarr, sir John, description of Avondale, 103, 104. \n\nCarra River, 50. \n\nCarran, the, near Island Magee, 127. \n\nCarran-Tual, ascent of, 42. \n\nview from, 43. \n\nCarrick-a-nook, insurgent nationalists assemble at, 532. \nCarrick-beg, 532. \nCarrickbyrne, hill of, 506. \n\n\n\nCarrickfergus, 120 ; castle, 121 ; military depot, 121 ; de- \nscription of, 122 ; captured by Bruce, 122 ; burned by \nScots and Irish, 122 ; walled by Sidney, 123 ; cap- \ntures of, 123. \n\nbay, no. \n\nCarrick-on-Shannon, 487. \n\nCarrick-on-Suir, 539 ; castle, 606 ; woolen trade, 608. \nCarrig-a-Droid castle, 439 ; tradition of, 442 ; taken by \n\nBroghill. 443 ; gallantry of the bishop of Ross, 443. \nCarrigaholt, 588. \nCarrig-a-Hooley castle, a stronghold of Grace O\'Malley, \n\n398. \nCarrigaloe, 413. \nCarrigan Head, 514. \nCarrig-a-R.ede, description of, 141, 142. \nCarrig Maur, Whyn-Dyke of, 136. \nCarrignacass ruins, 446. \nCarrignamuck, 439. \n\nCarrig-o-gunnel, 556 ; seat of the O\'Briens, 559. \nCarrigrohane castle, 439. \nCarte, 539. \nCarthaguiney, 5S. \n\nCarton demesne, 567, 56S, 569, 572. \nCasey, J. S., 3S0. \nCashel Hill, 215. \n\nascent of, 206. \n\nof the Kings, 611. \n\nRock of, 611 ; ruins at, 606 ; ruins visible from, 605 ; \n\nsir Walter Scott on, 612 ; traditions of, 612 ; origin \nof its name, 612 ; Round Tower on, 612 ; St. \nPatrick\'s visit to, 612 ; foundation of the buildings \non, 6l2. \n\ncathedral stonned by earl of Kildare, 613. \n\nmassacre in, by earl of Inchiquin, 613. \n\nParliament adjourned to, 543. \n\nCassan, " chronographer," 302. \nCassel-ira church, 3S6. \nCastellated houses in Galway, 243. \n\nCastle\xe2\x80\x94 Cassell\xe2\x80\x94 or Castelli, Richard, architect, 371. \nCastlebar, 390 ; Round Tower, 400. \n\nraces, 184. \n\nCastlebellingham, 490. \xe2\x96\xa0 \nCastle-Caulfield dismantled, 536. \nCastle chapel, Dublin, 363. \nCastlecomer, 547 ; sacked in \'98, 548. \n\ncoal-fields, 53S. \n\nCastleconnell, 559. \n\nCastle-Dexter, 272. \n\nCastlehaven, 462. \n\nCastle-Howard, S3, 103 ; woods of, 104. \n\nCastle- Howell, 539. \n\nCastle-Inch, 439. \n\nCastle-Kieran, 266 ; crosses and Holy Well, 266. \n\nCastle-knock, 379. \n\nCastle MacAdam, 103. \n\nCastle-Martyr demesne, 436. \n\nCastle-Mary, cromlech at, 436. \n\nCastlemore, 406. \n\nCastletownRoche, 458. \n\nCastle-Townsend, 462. \n\n\n\n623 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nCastleward demesne, 5gS. \nCastle-Wellan, 590 ; views from, 599. \nCastles : \n\nAughnanure, 192. \n\nCarlingford (king John\'s), 490, 491. \n\nCarrickfergus, 121. \n\nCarntown, 492. \n\nCanig-a-Droid, 439. \n\nGarrig-o-Gunnel, 559. \n\nCastletown (Kildare), 572. \n\nClare-Galway, 23S. \n\nClonmines, 499. \n\nCourtstown, 54S. \n\nCurraghmore, 532. \n\nDoonany, 139. \n\nDublin, 314, 362. \n\nDuncurry, 139. \n\nDunluce, 163. \n\nFerns, 402, 50S. \n\nHowth, 293, 303. \n\nInchiquin, 5S4, 5S7. \n\nKenbane, 140. \n\nLimerick (king John\'s), 555. \n\nLismore, 529. \n\nMacroom, 443. \n\nMalahide, 299. \n\nRed Bay, 132. \n\nRoche\'s (Louth), 491. \n\nSavage\'s, 599. \n\nShannid, 559. \n\nSwords, 303. \n\nTrim, 252. \n\nin Meath, 250. \n\nof the Plantation era, 4S3. \n\nTower-houses in Wexford, 500. \n\nand Towers in Limerick, 504, 553, 560. \n\nCathedral of Kildare, 566. \n\nof St. Mary, Limerick, 554 ; towers and bells of, 558. \n\nfirst built by Anglican Church in Ireland, 433 ; notice \n\nof, 434- \n\nCatholics, attend George IV., 331. \n\nConfederation of, 543; parliament of, in Kilkenny, \n\n543. 544 ; set up a press, 544 ; Limerick headquar- \nters of, 555. \n\nexcluded from fortified towns, 123. \n\nNational Synod in Dublin, 313. \n\nPro-Cathedral, Dublin, 377 ; designed by an Irish \n\nexile of \'98, 378. \n\nunder the Protectorate in Cork, 427. \n\nUniversity, 343, 375. \n\nCaulfield, sir Toby, 536. \n\nCauseway, the Giant\'s, 109 ; routes to, 144. \n\nCavan, county of. ancient principality of East Brefne, 520, \n\nthe Cradle of the Shannon, 520, 4S7. \n\nlord, 517. \n\nCave Hill, 114. \n\nCaverns conveying waters of lough Mask to lough Cor- \n\nrib, 3S3. \nCaves, in Antrim, 166. \nartificial, 390. \n\n\n\nCaves, Ballybunian, 55, 56. \n\nCappoquin, 530. \n\nClady, 266. \n\nCoast of Clare, 5S0. \n\nabout Cong, 3S3. \n\nDunkerry, 167. \n\nDunmore (Kilkenny), 547. \n\nGrace Staples,\' 141, 167. \n\nLisheen-Ard, 390. \n\nof Mayo, 3S3. \n\nof Mitchelstown. 610. \n\nPigeon Hole, 234. \n\nShandon, Dungarvan, 530, \n\nPort Coon Cave. 167. \n\nin the PuUens (Donegal), 516. \n\nCelbridge, 571. \n\nAbbey, meeting of Swift and Vanessa at, 571, \n\nCells-rtV/j-, in Meath, 275. \n\nCesarea, cairn of, 244. \n\nChamberlain, 122. \n\nChantrey, sculptor, 366. \n\nChapella, Richard de la, 249. \n\nCharlemagne, gift to Clonmacnoise, 472. \n\nCharlemont Fort, 475; defended against Schomberg by \nGovernor O Regan, 476. \n\nCharles II., restoration of, 313 ; portrait of, 379. \n\nCheek-point, 534. \n\nChesterfield, lord, 379. \n\nChichester, Arthur, frustrates capture of Carrickfergus, \n123. \n\nfounder of Belfast, 123. \n\nChild, Francis S., edited Spmscr\'\'s poems, 45S. \n\nChimney tops. Giant\'s Causeway, described, 154. \n\nChristianity, arrival of, 246. \n\nChrist\'s Church cathedral, Dublin, history of, 493, 343. \n\nChurch bay (Rathlin), 146. \n\nChurch collections in the United States, 243. \n\n" Church of the Oaks," 566. \n\nChurches, designations of stone and wooden, 2S3. \n\nCity Hall, Dublin, 365. \n\nstatues in, 366. \n\n" City of the Tribes," the, iSo. \n\nCladdagh, the population, character and customs of, 1S4. \n\nClady, 26C. \n\nClancarty (Muskerry) earl of, estates restored to, 451. \n\nClandeboy, 596. \n\nClane, 569. \n\nClantia Bvcaghain, 248. \n\nClanrickard, Galway surrenders to Earl of, 238. \n\n"Clan Savages of the Ards," 592. \n\nClara, vale of, 79 ; hamlet, 82. \n\nClare, county of, diversity .and advantages of its surface \n579 ; water front of, 5S0 ; character of the coast, \n5S0 ; old families of Thomond, 5S2 ; the O\'Briens, \n582 ; granted by Edward I. to Thomas de Clare, \n582 ; opposed by the O\'Briens, 582 ; made shire \nI ground and called Clare, 5S2. \n\nClare, Catherine de, murders imputed to, 508. \n\nClare, Thomas de, receives a grant of Thomond, 582 ; op- \nposed by the O\'Briens, 5S2. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n623 \n\n\n\nClare-Galway abbey, 236 ; castle, 23S. \n\nClare Island, residence of Grace O\'Malley, 395. \n\nClarence, duke of, holds a parliament at Kilkenny, 543. \n\nClare river, 236. \n\nClare town, 5S2. \n\nClashmore, 530. \n\nClety, 276. \n\nClew Bay, 391, 394 ; described, 395. \n\nClifden, 20S, 214, 215, 21S ; its foundation and growth, 21S ; \ncascades at, 218 ; harbor advantages of, 219 ; Cas- \ntle, 219 ; market day, 220 ; Forbes on, 220. \n\nCliffs and precipices : \n\nCape Clear, 464. \n\nCarrigan Head, 514. \n\nof Commeragh, 396. \n\nDundonolf, 533. \n\nof Galteemore, 396. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Gobbin, 124 \n\nHorn Head, 514. \n\nInishman, 188. \n\nInishmore, 187. \n\nKeene, 399. \n\nof Keeper, 396. \n\nof Kippure, 396. \n\nLug-na-.Vaimk, 396. \n\nLug-na-Quilla, 396. \n\nMagiUigan, 171. \n\nof Mangerton, 396. \n\nMinaune, 399. \n\nMoher, and coast of Clare, 580, \n\nPleaskin, 150. \n\nPort Moon, 145. \n\nPortrush, 171. \n\nof Rathlin, 147. \n\nSaddle Head, 399. \n\nSlieveleague, 512. \n\nTeeiing Head, 514. \n\nClochan, 220. \n\nClogheen, 615, \n\nClogher, 536. \n\nCloghreen, village of, 17. \n\nClonard, 250 ; tumulus at, 250 ; battle of, in \'gS, 250 ; sculpt- \nured font at, 250. \n\nClondalkin Round Tower, 3 So. \n\nClones, 488. \n\nClon-mac-Noise, annals of, 66 ; towers, churches, castles, \n471 ; notice of, 472 ; cross, 472. \n\nClonmel Church, Queenstown, 413. \n\ntown. 606 ; traditions of its origin, etc., 607 ; Crom- \nwell repulsed at, 607. \n\nO\'Brien and Meagher tried for treason in, 607. \n\nClonmines, ruins of, 499 ; mint at, 500. \n\nClontarf, 306 ; battle-ground, 307 ; repeal meeting at, pro- \nhibited, 332 ; events preceding and resulting from, \n334, 335, 380. \n\nClontibret, Hugh O\'Neill defeats the English at, 4 88. \n\nCloughan-ard-hill, 220. \n\nCloi\'-gh-i-Stookan, 129. \n\nCloughmore, 601. \n\nClovis II. gives St. Fursey land for a monastery, 235. \n\n\n\nCloyne, 414 ; Cathedral and Round Tower, 414; moment \nin, 415- \n\nCluain-Mealla, 607. \n\nCnoc and Ben, signification of, 200. \n\nCoal districts, 603. \n\ndiscovery of, in Kilkenny, 538. \n\nKilkenny noted for, 546. \n\nCobbett on surrender of church property, 268. \n\nCody, James, covers the retreat at ScuUagh Gap, 402. \n\nCoeynagall, monument to, 57S. \n\nCogan, John de, 236. \n\nMiles de, 424. \n\nRev. A., 246. \n\nColcha, St., president of Clonmacnoise, receives a gift from \nCharlemagne, 472. \n\nColclough, John Henry, executed, 505. \n\nCole, sir Lowry, monument to, 482. \n\nColeraine, 171, 573. \n\nSalmon Leap, 575, 577. \n\nColgan, 594. \n\nCollege Green, Dublin, 366 ; statues on, 366. \n\nColleges, Belfast, 114. \n\nCarlow, 403. \n\nClongowes Wood, 569. \n\nColumba, 272. \n\nDrumcondra, 306. \n\nKilkenny, 546. \n\nMaynooth, 56S. \n\nTrinity, Dublin, 312. \n\nQueen\'s, Belfast, 115; Cork, 431; Galway, 185. \n\nCollegiate Church, Youghal, monuments in, 439. \n\nColleys, ancestors of Wellington, 270, 571, \n\nCoUeries, antiquity of, in Ireland, 13S. \n\nColman, scholar and poet, 414. \n\nColtsman, Mr., builds castle at Glen Flesk, 50. \n\nColumba, St., 566. \n\nColumbkille, St., fostered at Kilmacrenan, 517 ; founded \nmonastery at Swords, 303 ; founded Derry, 573 ; \nlegend of miraculous interposition to defeat the \nEnglish, 574; relics in Downpatrick, 595. \n\nComan, St., founder of Roscommon, 478. \n\nComgall, St., founded the great school of Bangor, 596. \n\nCommeragh Mountains, 531. \n\nComyn, archbishop, tomb of, 346. \n\nConfederation of Kilkenny planned in Multifernam, 288. \n\nCong, 231, 383 ; situation of, 383 ; tomb of Roderick \nO\'Conor, 383; abbey of, restored in part by sir \nB. L. Guinness, 383. \n\nCongreve, William, dramatist, 529 ; at school, 546, \n\nConlath, St., first bishop of Kildare, 566. \n\nConn of the hundred fights, 178 ; defeats Eogan More, \n307- \n\nConnemara, trip to, 191; character of, 194; Miss Martineau \ndescribes, 195; are the lands available for agricul- \nture ? 204 ; its plants alid flowers, 208, 2i5 ; its \nwestern coast, 216 ; the country of salmon, 216 ; \nThackeray on, 218, 224 ; Mr. Ellis on, 222. \n\nConnaught, Anglo-Norman incursion into, 179. \n\nConnor, king of Thomond, erects Cahir Castle, 5io. \n\nConolly family, 572. \n\n\n\n624 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nConstantine, Jeffrey de, 249. \n\nConvoy, 514. \n\nConway, Rev. Peter, 243. \n\nCooley, Thos., architect, 359, 365. \n\nCoolnacartan Hill, 195, 196 ; view from, 201. \n\nCoolnamuck, 532. \n\nCoom Dhuv, 22 (see Black Valley). \n\nCoote, 183. \n\nsir Charles, 123; ruins the town of Ferns, 500; killed \n\nat Trim, 255. \nCopeland Islands, 597. \nCoppinger, sir W. , 534. \nCorbet, Miles, a regicide at Malahide, 299 . \nCore, king of Munster, builds a fort at Cashd, 612. \nCorcomroe, 5S4. \nCork, county of, 405; the largest county in Ireland, 405; its \n\nfine bays and harbors, 406 ; character of scenery, \n\n406 ; mountains, 406 ; extensive coast and abundant \n\nfresh waters, 407. \n\ncity, position and description of, 420 ; history, 421 ; \n\nancient port of, 423 ; sea avenue to, 409 ; wasted in \ngth century, 423; Danes effect a settlement, 423; a \nwalled town at Anglo-Norman invasion, 423; capi- \ntal of Desmond, 423 ; conflicts between Anglo- \nNormans and MacCarthys of Desmond for its pos- \nsession, 424 ; a civic magistrate appointed, 425 ; \ngrowth of the city, 426 ; the Mayor beheaded at \nTyburn, 426 ; deprived of charter, 426; position \nduring 15th and l6th centuries, beset with " rebel \nenemies," 427 ; mixed nature of population, 427 ; \nMayor refuses to proclaim James I., 427; new \ncharter, 427; in the War of the Confederates, 427; \nproclaims Charles II. and vainly petitions for its \nrights, 428 ; James II. arrives, 428; city surrenders \nto William III., 42S ; continued extension of the \ncity, 42S; its nationality, 429 ; the Young Ireland \nagitation. 429; the Fenian movement, 430; principal \nstreets, bridges, buildings, etc., 430, 431, 432, etc. \n\ncathedral, first erected by the Protestants of Ireland, \n\n433- \n\nharbor, extent of, 409; islands in. 410. \n\nlibrary, American contributions to, 435. \n\nCormac\'s chapel, 609; consecrated, 612; opinions of its \n\nbeauty, 613. \nCormac MacArt, king, retirement, studies and death. 276 ; \n\nincidents of his burial at Rosnaree, 276. \nCorofin, 242. \nCorrann AchiU, 399. \n\nCorrib, Lough, 192; described, 232; largest islands in, 240. \nCorruiidii, 605. \nCorryvreken, 150. \nCottingham, Mr., architect, 474. \nCoulston, Wm., linen trade, i2o. \nCoumshinaun, the Valley of Ants, 531. \nCourcey, 16S. \n\nsir John de, 122 ; lord Kinsale, premier baron of \n\nIreland, his rights, 445 ; settles in Downpatrick, \n591 ; endows Downpatrick abbey, 595. \n\nCourtstown castle, 548. \n\nCove, Queenstown, 409. \n\n\n\nCox, Sir Richard, portrait of, 379, 462 ; lord chancellor \n\nand lord justice, 446. \n\nSamuel S., on Belfast, 118. \n\nCoyne, J. Sterling, on Killarney, 24, 128. \n\nCraigs Rocks, 174 ; druidical remains described, 174. \n\nCraik, Spenser a7id his poetry, 458. \n\nCrampton, sir Philip, 78. \n\nCranagh barony, 548. \n\nCranfield Point, 589. \n\nCratloe, woods and castles, 587. \n\nCrawford, Sharman, 596. \n\nCrawfordsburn, 596. \n\nCreadenhead, 534. \n\nCregan, Martin, artist, 376. \n\nCregg castle, 238. \n\nCrimthan, king, his cairn, 306 ; his fort, 296 ; fitted out \n\nexpedition in the first century against the Romans, \n\n423. \nCroghan-Kinsella, 107. \nCroagh Patrick, ascent of, 394, 395, 398. \nCroker brothers, 534. \n\nT. Crofton, 39, 427. \n\nCrolly, Dr., Catholic primate, 474. \nCromaglan Mountain, 7. \nCromlechs, 7. \n\nBallyumpage, 126. \n\nCastle Mary, 436. \n\nComber, 590. \n\nCraigs Rocks, 174. \n\nCromwell\'s Hill, 616. \n\nCounty Down, 590. \n\nDrumbo, 590. \n\nDrumgooland, 590. \n\non Galtee More, 616. \n\nKnockeen, 531. \n\nRathfrdand, 590. \n\nSliddery Ford, 590. \n\nSlieve-na-Griddal, 590. \n\nCromwell, Oliver, 1S3, 395 ; at Malahide, 299 ; siege and \nbutchery at Drogheda, 493 ; slaughter at Wexford, \n505 ; at Kilkenny, 544 ; jokes at Cork, 427, 606, \netc. \n\nCromwell\'s Bridge, Glengariff, 46S ; view from, 470. \n\nFort Drogheda, 493. \n\nRock, Wexford, 505. \n\nCromwellian families of Cork, 427. \nCronbane, copper mines, 104. \nCrookhaven, 463, 465. \n\nCroom, 559 ; Round Tower and Cyclopean Church, 562. \n" Cross of Cong," 3S7 ; described, inscription and names \n\non, 388. \nCross, a piece of the true, sent by the Pope to king Tur- \n\nlough O\'Conor, 3S7. \nCrossfamogue point, 499. \nCrosshaven creek, 410. \nCrossmolina, 390. \nCuaii-iia-Grian, the, 533. \nCurragh of Kildare, 565. \nCurraghmore, 532. \nCurran, J. Philpot, 350, 380. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n625 \n\n\n\nCurran, Sarah, love of Emmet for, 323. \n\n"Curse of Scotland," the, 549. \n\nCusack, M. F., Nun of Kenmare, 264. \n\nCushendall, 131, 132. \n\nCushendun, I2g, 134. \n\nCustom House, Dublin, described, 351. \n\nCyclopean structures, Croom, 562. \n\nKillaloe, 5S6. \n\nStaigue fort, 7. \n\nDagobert, educated at Slane, 275. \n\nDaim-liag, stone house, 2S3 \n\nDalaradia, 122. \n\nDalkey Island, 295, 380 ; hill, 3S0. \n\nDallans, 7. \n\nDalriada, 122. \n\nDalton, 534. \n\nDaly, James, 510. \n\nRev. Peter, of Galvvay, 186. \n\nDan, lough, 75. \n\nDanes, in Waterford, 533. \n\nwasting Kildare, Meath, Dublin, 533. \n\non the Shannon, 554. \n\nvarious references under Dublin, Waterford, Cork, etc. \n\nDangan castle described by Mrs. Delany, 269. \n\nDante, Diviiia Coinmedia founded on St. Fursey\'s visions, \n236. \n\nDarcy, Patrick, judiciary representative in Confederate \nparliament, 544, \n\nD\'Arcy, iSo, \n\nfounder of Clifden, 218. \n\nof Dunmoe, 272. \n\nDargle, or Glenislorane, river, 67. \n\ndescril^ed, 68. \n\nDarin i, STi. \n\nDargan, Wm., 66 ; projects the Industrial Exhibition, 337 ; \ndeclines knighthood, 338 ; visited by queen Vic- \ntoria, 338 ; statue of, 338, 376. \n\nDavies, sir John, 488. \n\ndean, Cork, 450. \n\nDavis, Thomas, Intro, v., plea for preservation of the ruins, \nvii., xi., 336, 369 ; birthplace, 454 ; places slab on \nTone\'s grave, 571. \n\nDavitt, Michael, 510. \n\nDead Christ, the, by Hogan, 435. \n\nDeala, Slainge Mac, Firbolg king, 402. \n\nDean, admiral, 445. \n\nDeane, 180. \n\nsir Thomas, architect, 431. \n\nDearg, lough (Shannon), 243. \n\nDeclan, St., 529. \n\nDeel, confluence with the Shannon, 562 \n\nDeer-park, 174, \n\nseat of the O\'Kanes, 573. \n\n" Defenders," 476. \n\nDelamers, 2S7. \n\nDelany, Mrs.. 269. \n\nDelaware Water-Gap, Intro., vi. \n\nDelgany village, 75. \n\nDelphi, 390, 393. \n\n\n\nDerg, lough, 514. \n\nDerivaragh, scenery of, 286, 287. \n\nDerrick quoted, 39, 40. \n\nDekrv, 573, 574 ; desire of Elizabeth to possess, 574 ; taken \nby Sir H. Dowcra, 574 ; he builds an English \ntown which is burned by O\'Doherty, 574. \n\ncity (Londonderry), picturesque features of, 577 ; the \n\nwalls of, 577 ; famous siege and defence of, 577, \n578 ; siege and defence of, 577, 57S ; Lord An- \ntrim\'s regiment shut out, 577 ; King James fired \non, 578; sufferings of the besieged, 578; sal- \nlies by, 578. \n\nDerryclare hill, 195 ; ascent of, ig8. \n\nDerrycunnihy cascade, 7 ; description of, 26 ; stag hunting \nat, 26 ; hills, 24. \n\nDerrygonelly, 483. \n\nDerrygore House, 4S4. \n\nDerrj\'-hill, fight at, 574. \n\nDerrynane abbey, O\'Connell\'s residence, 51. \n\n"Deserted Village, The," scene of, 271 ; views in, 292, \n\nDesii, 605. \n\nDesmond, Thomas, earl of, beheaded, 492 ; monument to. \n493- \n\nearl of, beats the Lancastrians at Wexford, 505. \n\ncountess of, who lived 140 years, 523. \n\nstronghold at Strancally, 523. \n\nlegend of the last chief, 562. \n\nDevil\'s-Glen, waterfalls in, 95 ; described, 96 ; Brewer on. \n\n97 ; Spanish poem on, 97. \nDevil\'s Punch-Bowl, 8, 44 ; Charles James Fox at, 44. \nDevinish, visit to, 483 ; description of, 484 ; antiquities \n\non, 484-485; Round Tower, 485; character and \n\nsculptures of, 486, \nDevlin, Anne, 3S0. \nDevonshire, duke of, portrait of, 379. \nDevorgoilla retires to Mellifont abbey, 495. \nDicho receives St. Patrick and is converted, 594. \nDillon, 180. \n\nJohn B., 369, 380. \n\nsir Lucas, altar tomb of, 258, \n\nDingle Bay, 54. \n\nDingley, Mrs,, 270. \n\nDinis island, 30, 51. \n\nDimighy royal residence, 402. \n\nDiocese of Meath, ancient and modern, by the Rev. A, \nCogan, dean and archivist, etc., 3 vols, quoted, 246 \nDisestablishment of Anglican Church Act, 346. \n\nDobbs, Arthur, surveyor-general, 371, \n\nDodder river, 294 ; suburban places on, 379. \n\nDoheny, Michael, 460; V\\i Felon\'s Track, 461, 6ii. \n\nDoire-Calgach, 573. \n\nDollard, Adam, 294. \n\nDollymount, 306. \n\nDonabate, 302. \n\nDonaghadee, 597 ; rath, 590. \n\nDonaghmore Church (Tipperary), 608. \n\nRound Tower (Meath), 26S. \n\nDonatus, Ostman bishop, 344. \n\nDonegal abbey, founded by Nuala, 515 ; the English un- \nder Nial Garv driven out. 515 ; monks return and \n\n\n\n626 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\ndwell in the ruins, 515 ; compile the Annals of the \nFour Masters, 515. \n\nDonegal castle, 515. \n\nDonegal, county of, 513 ; scenery of, 513 ; highlands, 514 ; \nmountain glens and lakes, 514. \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 town and bay, 515. \n\nDoneraile, 455. \n\nDonn, fairy king, 562. \n\nDonnelly, Dr., bishop of Clogher, makes better accommo- \ndations for lough Derg pilgrims, 517. \n\nDonnybrook, 379. \n\nDonore hill, 2S3, 2S4. \n\nDonough, king of Ossory, founded Jerpoint Abbey, 540. \n\nDonoughmore (Down) church and graveyard, 600, 601. \n\nDoolin, immense rocks thrown up by the ocean, 580. \n\nDoon hill, igg. \n\nPoint, development of basaltic formation on, 148. \n\nrock of, 517. \n\ninvestiture of the chiefs of Tyrconnell on, 51S. \n\nDorset, duke of, Viceroy, fight with parliament, 319, \n\n320. \nDouglas, general, 47S. \n\nvillage of, 419. \n\nDowcra, sir Henry, takes Derry and builds an "English \n\ntown," \'574. \nDowdall, sir Launcelot, his sacrifice for the Stuarts, 259. \nDown, county of, 589 ; extensive coast line of, 5S9 ; bays, \n\n5S9 ; ancient name, 591 ; present name, 5S9 ; De \n\nCourcey makes a settlement, 591. \nDowndaniel Castle, 446. \nDownpatrick, De Courcey, founds religious establishments, \n\n591 ; principal families, 592 ; abbey erected by St. \n\nPatrick, 593 ; the apostle died here, 594 ; cathedral \n\nrestorea, 395 ; shrine of St. Patrick desecrated by \n\nlord Deputy, 59S. \n\ncathedral, 590. \n\nrath, 590. \n\nhead, 400. \n\nDown Survey, quoted, 591. \n\nDowth, mound of, 279 ; notice of, 2S1 ; examination of by \n\nRoyal Irish Academy, 282. \nDoyle, bishop (J. K. L.), Hogan\'s statue of, 401. \n\nJ. B., 136, 144, 51S, 59S, etc. \n\nDrake, sir Francis, chased by Spanish fleet, 409. \n\nJohn, a recluse at Muckross, 12. \n\nDrehidtarsna. 552. \nDrimoleague, 40S. \n\nDrogheda, 489 ; historical notice of, 492 ; Richard II. \n\nholds court at, 492 ; Parliament at, 492 ; taken by \n\nCromwell, 493 \xe2\x80\xa2 butchery at, 493. \nDromana forest, 523. \n\nDromcliffe Church and Round Tower, 584. \nDromore castle. Limerick, 560. \n\nCo. Down, new cathedral at, 596. \n\nrath, 590. \n\nDruids, Druidical remains, 7, 174, 247, 264, 276, 281, 289, \n\n444. 448, 534. 536. 553- Sf\'^. etc. \nDrumbo, Round Tower, 591. \nDrumcliffe, crosses and tower remains, 512. \nDrumcollagher, 551. \n\n\n\nDrumcondra, 294. \nDrumdaleague, 461. \nDrumgoff, 83. \n\nDrummond, Thomas, under-secretary, Hogan\'s statue of \n36&- \n\nDr W. H., on Antrim, Iio ; on Fair Head, 135 ; on \n\nBallycastle collieries, 139-147, 166. \nDubh-Chathair, 1S7. \nDublin, county of, 293. \n\nbay, 294 ; its beauty noticed by Willis, Hall, Brewer, \n\nCampbell, Creswick, 295, 296. \n\ncastle, 314, 315 ; notice of, 362 ; portraits of viceroys \n\nin, 365. \n\nCity, magnificent situation, 293; celebrated for its public \n\nbuildings, 351 ; position, history and character, 307 ; \nearliest account of, 307 ; a noble city at the time of \nSt. Patrick, 307 ; arrival of the Danes, 307 ; Fingall \nand Dubhgall, 308 ; called by the Danes Diveline \xe2\x80\x94 \nDublin, 308 ; Danes elect a king and fortify the \ncity, 308 ; battle of Clontarf, Anglo-Norman incur- \nsion, 30S ; Henry II. arrives and entertains the \nnatives, 309 ; recalled to England, 310 ; arrival of his \nson John as lord of Ireland, 310 ; bridge built over \nthe Liffey, 310 ; panic of citizens on arrival of Ed- \nward Bruce, 311 ; Richard II. maintains a splendid \ncourt, 311; honors to the municipality, 311; Simnel \ncrowned in Christ\'s Church cathedral, 311 ; Poyn- \nings installed as lord deputy, 311 ; rebellion of \n" Silken Thomas," 312 ; monastery of All-Hallows \ndissolved and Trinity College founded, 312; Dublin \nduring the civil wars, 312 ; Ormond resigns the gov- \nernment to commissioners of parliament, 312 ; seiz- \nure of the castle in behalf of the Restoration, 313 ; \nchief magistrate made " Lord Mayor," 314 ; Na- \ntional Catholic synod, 314 ; city improvements, \n314 ; great inundation of the Liffey, 314 ; ar- \nrival of James II., 314 ; military entry of Wil- \nliam III. after the Boyne, 314 ; buildings of stone \nand brick introduced, 315 ; city bounds ex- \ntended, 315 ; parliamentary grants for city im- \nprovements, 317 ; theatres and hospitals, 318 ; \nsome parliamentary history, 319; conflicts between \nParliament and the viceroy, 320, 321, 322 ; Octen- \nnial bill carried, 321; independent legislature de- \nclared, 322 : the first steam engine in Dublin, 322 ; \n\'98, the " Union," and Emmet\'s rebellion, 323 ; be- \nfore and after the Union, 327 ; change in manners \nand customs, 32S ; hospitals and churches, bridges \nand docks, 331 ; visit of George IV., 331 ; first railroad, \n332 ; political agitations, 383 ; prohibition of re- \npeal meeting at Clontarf, 332 ; trial of O\'Connell \nand his associates, 335 ; release and triumphal pro- \ncession, 335 ; " Young Ireland" agitation, Dublin in \n1848, 336 ; arrest of leaders and journalists, 336 ; \nvisit of queen Victoria, 337 ; Industrial Exhibition \nof 1853, 33S ; excitement during Fenian agita- \ntion. 338 ; Home Rule Conference, 339 ; centennial \ncelebration of the birth of Moore, 340 ; customs \nduties at, 341 ; woolen and linen trade, breweries \nami distilleries, 342 ; railways and canals, 342 ; \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n627 \n\n\n\nprogress of population, 343 ; historical edifices, \n343 ; monuments, 344, 346, 350, 351, 354, etc. \n\nDublin City Hall, 31 S. \n\nJIusical Academy, 270. \n\nmountains, 103. \n\nwaterworks, extent of, at Roundwood, 75. \n\nPenny Journal, 246. \n\nDubtach, arch poet, converted to Christianity, 265. \n\nDufferin, earl of, 596. \n\nDuffy, sir Charles Gavan, arrested \'4S, 335, 336. \n\nDuleek, first stone church in Ireland, 2S2. \n\nruin and tower at, 283. \n\nDumha Slainge, 402. \n\nDun-a-Mase, rock of, 479. \n\nfortress on, taken and retaken, 4S0 ; fortifications de- \nscribed, 4S0. \n\nDunanore castle, 464. \n\nDun-.<Engus, 187. \n\nDunbeg, 580. \n\nDunboyne, lord, bishop, scholarship foundation in May- \nnooth, 569. \n\nDunbrody abbey, 501, 502, 541, \n\nDtm-Crimthan (Howth), 296, 306. \n\nDundalk, 4S9 ; ancient naval fight at, 490. \n\nBruce crowned in, 490. \n\nDundonald rath, 590. \n\nDundonolf, Irish thrown over the cliffs, 533. \n\nDundrum bay, 599; castle, 599. \n\nDunfeeny, 382. \n\nDungannon, 536. \n\nDungar\\\'an, 530. \n\nDungiven, 576 ; castle and church, 578. \n\nDunkechan cavern, 303. \n\nDunkerron, ruins of, 7. \n\nDun-Leary, changed to Kingstown, 331. \n\nDunloe, gap, 17 ; cave, iS ; castle, iS. \n\nDunluce castle described, 169 ; Willis and Taylor on, 170 ; \ntreacherously seized, 170 ; views from, 171. \n\nDunmanus bay, 465. \n\nDunmanway, 462. \n\nDunmoe castle, defence of, 272. \n\nDunmore, 534. \n\ncaves (Kilkenny), 547. \n\nDun-Oghill, 187. \n\nDun-Onagh, 187. \n\nDunran, glen of, gg. \n\nDunseverick, rock and ruins, 143. \n\nDurrow, 250. \n\nDutton, Hely, Statistical Survey of Clare, 239, 580. \n\nDwyer, Michael, a patriot leader in \'98, 79. \n\nDysart, 2S6; castle and ruins, 550. \n\nEagle\'s nest, Killarney, echoes at. 27 ; Weld and Okendon \n\non, 27. \n\nBantry, 468. \n\nEainhain Macha, palace of Ulster Kings, 475. \n\nEbel, Celtic Studies, translated by Dr. W. K. Sullivan, 435. \n\nEbla7ia-Eblani, 307. \n\nEdgecombe, sir Richard, envoy of Henry VII. to take \n\nhomage of the Irish, 311. \n\n\n\nEdgeworth, Maria, 270, 290 ; her influence on Scott, 291 \nhis visit to her, 291 ; at Blarney with Scott, 450. \n\nEdgeworthstown House, 290. \n\nEdward I. granted Thomond to Thomas de Clare, 582. \n\nEglinton, lord, statue of, 374. \n\nEldon, lord, hastens departure of George IV. from Ire- \nland, 331. \n\nElizabeth, Charlotte, 203. \n\nElizabeth, queen, gives silver collar of SS. to mayor of \nCork, 427 ; offers to make Grace O\'Malley a \ncountess, 3g8 ; impatient to secure Derry, 574. \n\nElk, remains of, 530. \n\nEllis, Mr., improvements in Connemara, 222. \n\nEly, lord, 570. \n\nEly O\'CarroI, 53S. \n\nEmmet, Robert, capture and execution, 326. \n\nhis grave, W. J. Fitzpatrick on, 360. \n\nEnda, St., 188. \n\nEnnis, 583 ; ruins and relics, and monuments in, 5S4. \n\nEnniscorthy, 4g8, 501, 506 ; castle, 507. _ \n\nEnniskerry, village of, 67. \n\nEnniskillen, 4S1, 482, 483. \n\nEogan Mor, king of Munster, 178 ; slain, 307. \n\nEre, first bishop of Slane, 265. \n\nEric, Bryan Balloughe\'s, 123. \n\nErigena, John Scotus\' birthplace, 595. \n\nErne, lough, extent of, 48 1. \n\nconnected with the Shannon, 489. \n\nInglis on, 482. \n\nErris, district of, 400. \n\nEshery, 132. \n\n" Eskers," described, 480 ; \n\nEsmond, Dr. John, executed, 323. \n\nEssex, earl of, expedition against O\'Neill, 123 ; Elizabeth\'s \nletter to, 574 ; besieges Cahir, 610. \n\nEss-waterfall in Glenmalure, 83, 84,. 103. \n\nEva, princess, wife of Strongbow, 344; her long-lost mon- \nument, 346, 500. \n\nEvans, Mr. , bridge builder, 494. \n\nEyre, Mr., 219. \n\nFairhead, 132 ; description of, by Playfair, Drummond, \n\nBayard Taylor, Hall, etc., 135 ; views from, 136. \nFair hill, 232. \n\nFairholt, F. W. , artist, on Mayo scenery, 399. \nFairies, 244 ; Rock of Doon, 518 ; Knockfearna, 562. \nFairy Lawn, home of Gerald Griffin, 556,559. \nFaithlegg hill, 534. \n\nFamous Persons and Places, by Willis, 363. \nFarrell, Thos., sculptor, 33S, 355, 376, 379. \nFarquhar, 546. \nFastnet Rock, 464. \n\nFata Morgana, on coast of Antrim, described, 171. \n\xe2\x96\xa0\' Father Prout," see Rev. Francis Mahony. \nFaulkner, John, Swift\'s publisher, 350. \nFaughart, Bruce, slain at, 490. \nFeagh hill, 145. \nFechin, St., founder of Fore abbey, 2SS. \n\nat Cong, 3S3. \n\nFeipo or Phepoe, Adam de, 249. \n\n\n\n628 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nFeis Teararach, assembly of Tara, 261. \n\nFenian Agitation, 134, 338. \n\nFennel, an officer, betrays Limerick, 555. \n\nFerbane, 471. \n\nFerguson, M. C. , Irish Before the Conquest, 566. \n\nSir Samuel, on Usneach, 2S9. \n\nFermanagh, County of, 4S1. \nFermoy, 406, 452. \n\nFerns, royal residence, 402 ; abbey, 501, 507 ; castle de- \nstroyed, 508 ; legend of murders in, 50S. \nFerriter, Pierce, put to the sword, 55. \nFerry-Carrick, 507. \nFerry-point, 522. \nFethard bay, 497. \nFethard, Wexford, 500. \nFethard-Tip, 603, 611. \nFfont, 180. \nFfrench, iSo. \nFiachal Phadrig, 386. \nFingal, heroic self-sacrifice of, 490. \nFinglas, baron, advises the suppression of abbeys. 502. \nFinian, St., 17 ; founder of Clonard, 250. \n\nthe leper at Swords, 303. \n\nFinlayson, canon, 344. \n\nFinn Bar, St., founder of Cork city, first bishop, 423, 434 ; \n\nhermitage, 460. \nFinola, princess, 386. \nFinvarra, fairy king, 244. \nFionn, 134. \nFirbolg colony, 505. \nFir-House, 379. \nFitz-Eustace, viscount Baltinglass, leads the Irish at Glen- \n\nmalure, 84. \nFitzgerald, lord Edward, escaped from Leinster House, \n\n376 ; succored in Cork, 42S ; arrested, 323 ; tomb \n\nof, 362. \n\nDesmond, house of, 606. \n\nlord of Offaly, first Geraldine earl of Kildare, 367. \n\nlord Thomas (\'\' .Silken Thomas "), 312. \n\nMargaret (" the great countess of Ormond "), 539. \n\nMaurice, founded castle and famous abbey of Sligo, \n\n510. \nFitzgeralds of Cloyne, 427. \n\nof Inchiquin, 427. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 founded religious houses in Youghal, 436 ; Collegiate \n\nchurch, 43S, 439. \nmonuments of, in Cloyne, 4:5 ; in Youghal, 439; in \n\nJerpoint, 542, etc. \nFitzgibbon, lord, statue of, Limerick, 558. \nFitz-Henry, Myler, 249. \nFitzpatrick, 538. \n\nWm. J., The Sham Squire, etc., 360. \n\nFitz-Stephen, 402. \n\nLynch, mayor or warden of Galway, iSo ; executed his \n\nown son Walter, 182 ; tragic story of, 1S2. \nRobert, leader of the first Anglo-Norman expedition, \n\n497- \nFitz-Thomas, Gilbert, 249. \nJohn, earl of Kildare, founded abbeys at Adare, 560 \n\n562. \n\n\n\nFitzwilliam, earl of, his estate, 82 ; built Flannel Hall at \n\nRathdrum. 82. \nFlanedy, John, Irish State Ttials, 334. \nFlann, poet and antiquary, 495 ; his writings, 496. \nFleming, Richard and Thomas, 249. \n\nThomas, tomb of, 439. \n\nFoaty island and park, 419. \n\nFoley, John Henry, sculptor, 355 ; works by, 359, 367, 376, \n\n430. \nForbes, sir John, on Gap of Dunloe, 19 ; gives dimensions \n\nof Giant\'s Causeway, 162, 166 ; on Clifden and Ard- \n\nbear, 220 ; on advantages of water excursions from \n\nCork, 416 ; passim, 150, 184, 206, 228, 4S2, 600, etc. \nFore, remains at, 288 ; ancient name of, 2S9. \nFormorians, 244, 414, 481. \nFort Camden, 405. \nFort Carlisle, 409. \nForth and Bargy, baronies of, 502 ; people and customs of, \n\n503, 504 ; tower-houses in, 504. \nFoster, Speaker, declines to yield the mace, 371. \n"Four Courts," Dublin, described, 356. \n"Four Masters," the annals of (see Annals), 10, 315, etc. \nFoxford, 390. \n\nFranciscan Friary, Kilkenny, 546. \nEraser, James, Handbook for Ireland, referred to, 76, 83, \n\n100, 134, 204, 500, etc. \n\nMr., Statistical Survey of Wexford, 500. \n\nFreeman\'s Joiirnal, Dublin, 335. \n\nFrench Refugees and Irish linen trade, 119. \n\nFursey, St., his missions and visions, 235; Dean Milnian \n\nand Rev. J. O\'Hanlon on, 235-6. \n\nGallagher, sculptor, group by, 376. \n\nGallerus oratory, 55. \n\nGalteemore, 551, 602, 604 ; cromlech, 616. \n\nGalway, county of, 177; extent and boundaries of, 177 \nnature of surface, 1 78. \n\nTown, commercial relations with Spain, 180; old town \n\nlike Spanish cities, iSo ; settled by the "Tribes," \n179 ; names of other settlers, 180 ; historical notice \nof. iSo, 183 ; surrender to Coote on conditions, 183; \nto Ginkle with military honors, 183 ; garrison joins \ngeneral Lake in \'98, 183 ; Claddagh, 1S4 ; modern \nbuildings in, 1S4 ; education in, 184 ; character of \nyouth and children attending college and model \nschool, 185, 186 ; bridges, 1S6. \n\nbay of, 179, 1 86. \n\nearl of portrait, 379. \n\nGandon, James, architect, 351, 359, 371. \n\nGap of Dunloe, 15. \n\nGarland of Ilowth, 306. \n\nGarran point and tower, description of, 12S, 129 ; views \nfrom, 129. \n\nGarvagh hill, 440. \n\nGarry castle, 471. \n\nGeneral Post Office, Dublin, described, 354. \n\nGenerals, royalist, at battle of Arklovv, 107. \n\nGeneville (or Joinville), sir Geoffry de, lord justice, 254. \n\nGeological notices of environs of Belfast, 374. (See Bryce, \npassim,) \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n629 \n\n\n\nGeorge II., Van Nost\'s statue of, 374. \n\nGeorge III., Van Nost\'s statue of, 366 ; statue of in House \nof Lords, Dublin, 371. \n\nGeorge IV. visit to Ireland, 331 ; Behnes\' statue of, 376. \n\nGerald, earl of Kildare, supports Simnel, 311. \n\nGeraldines, 562 ; traces of their power in Limerick, 560. \n\nSilken Thomas, 567. \n\nfirst earl of Kildare, 567 ; seat at Maynooth, 567. \n\nGernons, de, 299. \n\nGiant\'s Causeway, 109 ; union with Scotland, 14S ; de- \nscribed, 156 ; first impressions of, 15S ; Great, \nMiddle and Little Causeways, 15S ; number of pil- \nlars and their character, 159 ; Cowper, Drummond, \nForbes, Bryce, and Kohl on, 156, 158, 163 ; dimen- \nsions, length, breadth and height of the several \ndivisions, 162 ; concavity of upper surface, 163 ; \nextent of basalt formations, 164 ; error of comparing \nFingal\'s Cave to, r66. \n\nPoem. (See Dr. W. H. Drummond.) \n\nGiants\' granny, 160. \n\norgan, 155. \n\npulpit, 150. \n\nGibbons, Johnny, the outlaw, 226. \n\nGilbert, J. L. , History of Dublin, etc., 312, 316, etc. \n\nGill abbey, 435. \n\nlough, connected with the ocean, 510. \n\nGinkle, general de, 183, 478. \n\nGiraldus Cambrensis, intra., i. ; accompanies prince John \nto Ireland, intro., i. ; on the natural beauties of the \ncountry, ii. ; on lough Neagh, iii. \n\nGladstone, Wm. E., at Dublin, 341. \n\nGlancree barracks, 79 ; Catholic reformatory, 79. \n\nvale of, 78. \xe2\x80\xa2 \n\nGlanismole, 294. \n\nGlanmire, 419. \n\nGlasnevin cemetery, Dublin, 131,380. \n\nGleancoum, 439. \n\nGleann-jia-Gleodh, 533. \n\nGlena, 35. \n\nGlenariff, 131. \n\nGlenarm, 127 ; construction of coast road at, 127 ; views \nfrom, 12S; description of, 12S; castle of, 12S. \n\nGlenart, 103. \n\nGlenca-r, valley of, 50. \n\nGlendahork, 396. \n\nGlendalough, 84 ; descriptions of, 85 ; solemn aspect of, 86 ; \nhistorical notice of, 86; e.Ktent and ruins, 87; the site \nof an ancient city, 87 ; ravaged by the Danes, 87, \nand English, 87 ; only ecclesiastical remains at, 87 ; \ndescription of , 87 to 92 ; Round Tower at, 8g ; the see \nunited to Dublin, 87 ; an American v/riter on, 88. \n\nfamous seminary at, 94. \n\nConnemara, 194. \n\nGlendaragh, 102. \nGlendine, 523. \n\nGlen of the Downs, 73 ; description of, 74. \n\nGlen of Dunran, 99 ; description of, 99, 100. \n\nGlen Errifl to Westport, 393 ; mountain scenery, 393. \n\nGlen Fee, 224. \n\nGlen Flesk, 50. \n\n\n\nGlengariff, 406 ; routes to, 461 ; Bartlett on, 468. \n\n" Glen of the Gods." (See Devil\'s Glen.) \n\nGlen Inagh, 201, 225. \n\nGlen of Kiltymon, 100. \n\nGlen of Knocknarea, 512. \n\nGlenmalure, distinct characteristics of above, and below \n\nBallinacor, 83 ; beauties of the head of, 84 ; the \n\nfastness of Feagh MacHugh O\'Byrne, 84 ; battle at, \n\n84, 103. \nGlenmoi-e, demesne, 95, 98. \nGlennamaddoo, 396. \nGlenshesk, 139. \nGlen Thomas, 396. \n\nGobbins, basaltic cliff, 124 ; description of, 128. \nGodfred, king of Man, 597. \nGolden bridge, 605, 610. \nGolden legend, 5o. \nGolden spears, the, 64, 74. \nGolden Vale, the, 552 ; position and extent of, 603, 604 ; \n\nrailway through, 604; ruins in, 605; "a county \n\nworth fighting for," 606, 610. \nGoldsmith, Oliver, his birthplace and its associations, 290, \n\n2gi ; Foley\'s statue of, 345, 366, 369. \nGorey, 49S, 507. \n\nGordon, Rev. Wm., historian, 107. \nGort, 243; viscount, 243,367. \nGortin, 536. \nGougane Barra, 406 ; described, 459 ; St. Finn-Bar\'s \n\nhermitage, 460. \nGough, lord, 243. \nGrace, defender of Athlone, 478. \n\nJohn, baron of Courtstown, 540. \n\nOliver, abbot of Jerpoint, 540. \n\nfamily of, ruined by adherence to the Stuarts, 549. \n\nGrace\'s card, 549. \n\ncountry, 548. \n\nmonuments to the, 538, 542. \n\nGracehill Moravian settlement, 174. \nGrace-Staples cave, 141 \n\nGrammar School, Kilkenny, famous pupils, 546. \nGranard, 290. \nGrand canal, fly-boat, 480 \nGranny (Grandison) castle, 539. \nGrant, 534. \n\nGranua Aille (Grace 0\'Malley)304. \n\nGratlan, Henry, residence of, 72, 238, 323 ; Foley\'s statue \nof, 366 ; Chantrey\'s statue, 366. \n\nlady Laura, 367. \n\nGray, John de, left in charge of Irish administration, by \n\nking John, 310. \nGraves, Dr., i88. \n\nGray, sir John, prosecuted, 335 ; statue of, 355. \nGreat Island, Cork, 412 ; Queenstown on, 412 ; described, \n\n412 ; early landmark of history, 414. \nGregg, bishop, 433. \nGregory of Scotland, 437 \nGrenane castle ruins, 550. \nGrey abbey, 5S9, 591, 597, 591. \n\nGrey, lord Arthur, lord deputy of Ireland, 84 ; defeated \nby Feagh MacHugh, 84. \n\n\n\n630 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nGrey, lord deputy, edict against paying Eric, 123. \n\nlord Leonard, deputy, entered Lecale and Ards against \n\nSavage, 598 ; tried, and loses his head, 598. \n\nearl de, lord lieutenant, 333. \n\nGrey Man\'s Path, the. 136. \n\nGreystones, 67. \n\nGrianan of Aileach, 518; described, 519; Legend of \n\nO\'Neill\'s horsemen, 519. \nGrififin, Gerald, ballad on Kathleen and St. Kevin, 94, 191, \n\n302. \nGriffith, Mrs. W. D., account of moving bog, 234. \nGros, Raymond le, 424, 505, 507 -.cruelly at Dundonolf, 533, \n\n548 ; his grave, 523. \n\nRobert le, 344. \n\nGuinness, sir Benjamin Lee, restorer of St. Patrick\'s Cathe- \ndral, Dublin, 241, 348 ; restores Cong, 383, \n3SS. \n\nGurteen, 532. \n\nGuthrie, \\Vm., his account of Dublin, 316, 327. \n\nHagshead, 5S0. \n\nHalf dome, Yosemite, 399. \n\nHaliburton, judge, on Killarney, 48. \n\nHall, Mr. and Mrs. S. C, 12; on Fairhead, 135; on \ntreacherous practices of English settlers, 508 ; on \n\'\xe2\x96\xa0 Clan-Savage " and settlers in Ulster, 592 -.passim, \n40, 154, 204, 231, 416, 516. etc. \n\nHamilton, family, 593. \n\nRev. W., on the Antiquity of Ballycastle collieries, \n\n138, 139 ; on Pleaskin, l^l, passim, 146, 166, etc. \n\nSir W. R., astronomer, 225. \n\nHamilton\'s seal, view from, 152. \n\nHiindhook foi- Travelers in Ireland (see Eraser, Ja>i.,passi\xc2\xbbi). \n\nof Ireland {i^e. Walker, /aw/m). \n\nHandel, his Messiah first played in Dublin, 362. \nHeadford, 243. \n\nHeathen temples at Kilmelchedor, 55. \n\nHelvick Head, 530. \n\nHemans, Felicia, 378. \n\nHenry II. leaves for England, 505. \n\nv., hero of Agincourt, imprisoned in youth at Trim, \n\n254. \nHenry^ Mitchell, M. P., 226. \nHen\'s castle, 231 ; legend of its origin, 231. \nHerbert, H. A., M. P., of Killarney, 11, 31. \nHeremon, 492. \nHervey, T., architect, 596. \nHieron Promoiiloriiim, 497. \nHillsborough, 596. \nHilltown, 590. \nHistory of the Viceroys of Ireland, etc., by J. T. Gilbert, \n\nEsq., 312. \nHoare, sir R. C, on Killarney, 48, 152 ; on sculptures at \n\nKilmallock, 564. \nHodnett, 414. \n\nlord Philip, slain, 414. \n\nHogan, John, sculptor, 366, 379, 3S0, 403, 435. \nHolden, Richard, linen trade, 120. \nHoUybrook, demesne, 73. \nHolm-Patrick, 594. \n\n\n\nHolt, Joseph a patriotic leader in \'98, 79. \n\nHoly Cross abbey, 606, 613, 614, 615. \n\nHome Rule party, 339 ; league, 340. \n\nHook peninsula, 497. \n\nHope, James, at battle of Antrim in \'gS, 176. \n\nHere abbey, 606, 614. \n\nHorseshoe harbor, 150. \n\nHose, or Hussey, Hugh de. 249. \n\nHospital, 552. \n\nHouse of Rocks, 468. \n\nHowth, hill of, 294 ; described, 296 ; abbey and tombs, 29S ; \n\nearl of, 296 ; castle of, 29S, 303 : visit, of Granua \n\nAille to, 304. \n\nDanes fled to, after battle of Clonlarf, 30S. \n\nvillage of, 303, 380. \n\nHughes i.ap Hugh), 592. \n\nHumbert, arrival of French with, 1S3. \n\nHungry mountains, 467, 470. \n\nHy-Brasail, 190 ; Griffin\'s lines on, igi. \n\nHy-Cabanagh, 402. \n\nHy-Carthin, 538. \n\nHy-Drone, 402. \n\nHy-Kinsellagh, 498.- \n\nHy-Nialls, the, 250. \n\nHarbors, Bays, principal ; \n\nArdglass, 589. \n\nBallycastle, 137. \n\nBallynakcle, 224. \n\nBaltimore, 406, 464. \n\nBannow bay, 499, 500. \n\nBangor, 589. \n\nBantry, 400, 465. \n\nBerehaven, 467. " \n\nBernading bay, 223. \n\nBertraghboy bay, 206. 210, 215. \n\nBlack Sea harbor, 396. \n\nCarrickfergus, no. \n\nChurch bay (Uathlin), 146. \n\nClew bay, 391, 394, 395. \n\nCloghy, 589. \n\nClonakilty, 406. \n\nCork harbor. 406. \n\nCourtmacksherry, 406. \n\nCushendun, 133. \n\nDundrum, 5S9. 599. \n\nDunmanus, 406, 465. \n\nDonegal bay, 515. \n\nFethard bay (Wexford). 497. \n\nGalway, 179, 1S6. \n\nGlendore, 406. \n\nGweebarra, 514. \n\nKenmare. 465. \n\n. Killery harbor, 228, 230. \n\nKilleries, 17S, 226, 3S2, 393. \n\nKillough, 5S9. \n\nKingstown, 276. \n\nKinsale, 406. \n\nMalahide Bay, 293. \n\nMillin, 589. \n\nMill-quarter, 589. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n631 \n\n\n\nHarbors, Bays, principal. \xe2\x80\x94 Continued : \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Murtaugh, 133. \n\nQuintin, 589. \n\nRoaring Water Bay, 462. \n\nRosscarbery, 406. \n\nRoundstone, 215, \n\nSheephaven, 514. \n\nWaterford, 533. \n\nWexford Harbor, 4gg. \n\nYoughal, 406. \n\nHarland and Wolff, Belfast shipbuilders, 113. \n\nHarold\'s Cross, 326. \n\nHarpur, 538. \n\nHarris, 546. \n\nHarvey, Beauchamp Bagnal, executed, 504. \n\nHazelwood, demesne, 511. \n\nlar-Connaught, 178. \n\nIbar, St., 188. \n\nIinbhar Colpa, 492. \n\nInchageela, 459. \n\nInchangoil, ancient remains on, 240. \n\nInchiquin Castle, 584, 587. \n\nearl of, takes Cashel cathedral, and commits fearful \n\nmassacre, 614. \n\nInchmore Castle, 548. \n\nIndustrial Exhibition, 337; projected by Wm. Dargan,338. \n\nInglis, H. D., on lough Erne, intra. III. ; on Black \nvalley, 22 ; on the wilds of Kerry in 1834, 51 ; on \nGalway, iSo ; on Clifden, 219 ; on Kylemore lough \nand pass, 226 ; on the BlackWater, 522 ; passim, \n194, 208, 215, 218, 228, 600, etc. \n\nIniscaltra, Round Tower, and rains on, 587. \n\nInishman, forts on, 188. \n\nInishmore, 187 ; visited by St. Ibar, St. Inda, 1S8. \n\nInishowen, peninsula of, 518. \n\nInistioge, 537, 550. \n\nIniscarra, 439. \n\nInniscattery, 587 ; Round Tower and ruins on, 58S, \n\nInnis Courcey, ruins, 591. \n\nInnisfallen Island, 31 ; descriptions and history of, 31 ; \nannals of, 32 ; Moore\'s poem on, 34 ; supernatural \nappearances at, 40. \n\nInnisherkin abbey, 465. \n\nInnismurry, ruins on, 512. \n\nInsula Sancta Clara, Cape Clear, 464. \n\nIntroduction, i. \n\n"Interlacken of Ireland," 481. \n\nInver, 514. \n\nInver Dea, 66. \n\nIreland, early writers on, intra., i. ; extent of, vii. ; coast \nof, vii. ; a land of ruins, viii., x. \n\ndivision Of, in 2d century, 178. Formorian colony, \n\n244 ; Celto-Scythian colony Nemedians, 247 ; ear- \nliest population, 247 ; first-cultivated, 247. \n\nearliest assemblages of princes, bards, druids, brehons, \n\netc., at Tara, 247 ; Danish and Norse invaders, \n247 ; Tuat\'nal Teachtmar establishes Meath, 247 ; \nearliest kings in Meath, 247. \n\nK.ing Aldfrid\'s Itinerary of Ireland in 7th century. \n\n\n\n248 ; royal palaces in Meath 24S ; Henry II. confers \n\nlands, 249 ; baronies founded, 249 ; schools of \n\nlearning, 250 ; partition of, 307. \nIreland\'s Eye, Round Tower and ruins on, 306. \nIreland, Its Scenery, Chai-actcr, etc., by Mr. and Mrs. S. C. \n\nHall (see Hall, passim). \nIreton, 183 ; besieged Limerick, 555. \nIrish Academy, Royal, incorporated, 322. \nIrish bishops, qualifications for, 23S. \nIrish Chief, habits and usages of, 192. \nIrish confederation, 335. \n\nin Cork, 429. \n\nI>ish Felon, journal, 337, 374. \n" Irish Memphis," the, 276. \n\nIrish military power, extinction of, in Ireland, 246. \nIrish National Gallery, opened by earl of Carlisle, 338. \nIrishtown, Kilkenny, 542. \nIiish Tribune, journal, 337, 374. \nIsidore, iniro. , i . \nIsland castle, 531. \n\nIsland Magee, description of, 126 ; granted on lease to \nSavage, 126; ancient rent of, 126: massacre at, 126. \nIslands, Isles, etc., notable. \n\nAchill, 391. \n\nArran, 186. \n\nBannocks, 204. \n\nBere, 467. \n\nBoa Island, 482. \n\nClare, 392. 394 395. \n\nCape Clear, 464. \n\nChurch Island, 511. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 D.ilkey, 295. \n\nDevenish, 483. \n\nHaulbowline, 410. \n\nInishman iSS. \n\nInishmore, lough Erne, 482. \n\nin lough Corrib, 240. \n\nin lough Derg (Clare), 5S7. \n\nin lough Erne, 482. \n\nInnisboffin, 177, 392, 394, 395. \n\nInnisfallen, 31. \n\nInnisherkin, 464. \n\nInnismurry, 512. \n\nInnisshark, 177-394. \n\nInnisturk. 392, 394, 395. \n\nIreland\'s Eye, 295. \n\nLambay, 295. \n\nRathlin, 146. \n\nRocky Island, 410. \n\nSaltee, 499. \n\nSpike Island, 450. \n\nStation Island, lough Derg, 517. \n\nWhiddy, 467 \n\nIveagh, lord, holds Carrickfergus for James II., 123. \n\nJackson, Rev. Wm, , buried, 300. \n\nJail Journal, Mitchel\'s, 411. \n\nJames II. arrives in Cork and attends mass. 428 ; lands at \n\nKinsale with the French, 445; headquarters before \n\nthe Boyne, 491-492. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nJarlath, St. founder of Tuam, 244. \n\nJeffreys, sir James, 456. \n\nJerpoint Abbey, 540 ; monument in, 541. \n\nJesuit Fathers, 569. \n\nJigginstown House, extensive unfinished structure, 570. \n\nJocelyn, 307. \n\nJohn, 253 ; lord of Ireland arrives, 310 ; castle of Trim, \n251 ; resides at Leixlip Castle, 572 ; built castle \nand bridge of Limerick, 554 ; puts up castles at \nArdfinnan and Tipperary, 605. \n\nJohnson, Dr. James, Tour in Ireland, 4S2. \n\nDr. Sam., on Lucas, 360 ; his merits first recognized \n\nby Dublin University. 367. \nJohnston, Charles, author, 559. \n\nFrancis, architect, 354. \n\nHester, Swift\'s " Stella," 350. \n\nJohnstown Castle, 504. \n\nJohn the Baptist, St., hospital of (Meath) 258. \nJones, Michael, governor of Dublin, 313. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x96\xa0 Paul, his cruise and capture of the Drake, 124. \n\nJourney Throughout Ireland, etc. (see \\n^\\-i passim). \nJoyce, Dr. R. D. , quoted, 3S. \n\nP. \\^., intra. , x. \n\nJoyce\'s country, 17S, 229, 232. \nJoyes or Joyce, 180. \n\nThomas, 229-230. \n\nJulianstown, English defeat at, 272. \n\nKane, sir Robert, president Queen\'s College, Cork, 435. \n\nReady, 578. \n\nKeane, sir Richard, 524. \n\nKearnes, patriot priest in \'98, 250. \n\nKearney, Kate, cottage, iS. \n\nKeating, Geoffrey, grave of, 60S. \n\nKeim-an-eigh, pass of, 459 ; M. Doheny on, 460. \n\nKells, (Kilkenny), 539 ; ruins at, 540. \n\n(Meath), its history, 266; famous " book of," 267 ; \n\nRound Tower and cross, 268. \nKelly\'s lough, 102. \nKenbane, 139, 140. \nKenmare, town of, 6 ; scenery of, 6 ; road to, 6, 7. \n\nriver, 51. \n\nKermna, early Milesian king, 143. \n\nKerry, county of, 5 ; wilds of, in 1S34, 51. \n\nknights of, 52 \n\nKevin, St., notice of, 86 ; his tomb, 88 ; his kitchen a \nremarkable structure, 90 ; his cell, 91 ; Monastieon \nBibernicum on, 94 ; legends of his bed, 92 ; danger \nof visiting it, 92 ; legend of Kathleen, 93 ; poems \non, by Griffin and Moore, 94. \n\nKiaran, St., founder of Clonmacnoise, 472. \n\nKibline castle ruins, 549. \n\nKickham, Chas. J., 608. \n\nKienem, St. founded, Duleek church, 282. \n\nKilbarrack ruins, 306. \n\nKilcarn, font, 265. \n\nKilcolman castle, Spenser\'s residence, 455. \n\nKilcomney hill, 402. \n\nKilcomodon hill, where the brunt of Aughrim fight took \nplace, 478. \n\n\n\nKilcrea abbey and castle, 440; described, 441; wall of \n\nbones at, built by a strange woman, 441. \nKilcuanna, 236. \nKiLDARE, county of, 565. \n\nhistorical associations and antiquities of, 563 ; name \n\nand origin, 566 ; cathedral, 566 ; Round Tower, \n566 ; Fire house, 567 ; in \'98, 572. \n\nearl of, built castle and abbey, 570 ; Gerald, earl of, \n\n(1498), burns Cashel cathedral, 613; appointed \n\nviceroy, 613. \nKilfinnan, 552. \nKilfrush, 552. \nKilkee, 580. \nKilkeel, 590, 600. \nKilkenny, county of, its character, boundaries and history, \n\n537; marble and coal, 538; notable families, 538; \n\nclimate of. 550. \n\ncity, appearance and history, 542; parliaments, 542, \n\n543 ; statute of. adopted, 543 ; walled, 543 ; plun- \ndered by earl of Desmond, 543 ; seized by Mount- \ngarret, became headquarters of the Catholic Con- \nfederation, 543 ; invested by Cromwell, 544. \n\ncastle, 544, 545. \n\nGrammar School ("College of Kilkenny"), founded, \n\n546- \nKillaghie, old church of, 43. \nKillala, 400. \n\nKillaloe, royal residence, ancient buildings at, 586. \nKillannin, 243. \nKillany, 236. \nKillard Point, 589. \nKillamey, road to, 7 ; town of, cathedral and buildings at, \n\n17 ; circuit of the lakes, 17 ; Upper Lake, 27 ; Long \n\nRange at, 27 ; legends of, 39, 40 ; O\'Donaghues\' \n\nmistress, 42. \n\nScenery, \\V. S. Balch on, 45 ; compared with Lake \n\nGeorge, 47 ; Willis on, 47 ; Hoare on, 48; Judge \n\nHaliburton on, 48 ; Macaulay on, 49 ; Wakefield \n\non, 50. \nKillclief Castle, 59?, 599. \nKilleagh. 436. \nKillen, John B., 510. \nKiUenaule, 548, 605 ; coal district, 603. \nKilleries, 178, 226, 382, 393. \nKiUfursa church, 235, 236. \nKilliney, 294 ; obelisk, 380. \nKillmacrenan, 517. \nKillmallock, 552, 559.560; the Balbec of Ireland, 562; capital \n\nof Desmond\'s dominions, 563. \nKillursa, 235. \n\nparish, 243. \n\nKilmacduagh Round Tower and ruins, 242. \n\nKilmagany, 539. \n\nKilmainham, 363 ; royal hospital, 318 ; historical portraits \n\nin, 379- \nKilmelchedor, heathen temples at, 55. \nKilmore, 465. \nKilpeacan, 553. \n\nKilree Round Tower and caves, 540. \nKilronan, 478. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n633 \n\n\n\nKilroot church, where Swift first officiated, 124. \n\nKilrush, 5S7. \n\nKilsharvan church, 275. \n\nKiltymon, glen of, 100. \n\nKimboath founds the palace, Eaitihain Macha. \n\nKincora, palace of Brian Boru, 586. \n\nKin-Corr castle, 533. \n\nKinel-Eoghain, 535. \n\nKing John\'s castle. Limerick, history and sieges of, 555. \n\nKings County, 471. \n\nKingstown Harbor, 2g6, 331, 3S0. \n\nKinnegad, 286. \n\nKinsale, 40S; historical notice of, 444,445; disaster to Irish \n\nand Spanish allies at, 445 ; surrender to Cromwell, \n\n445- \nKippure mountains, intra., vi., 63. \nKirke, sculptor, 379. \nKirwan, 180. \n\nRichard, the chemist, 23S. \n\nWalter Blake, dean, Grattan on, 23S. \n\nKnights of St. Patrick, order of, instituted, 322, 350. \nKnockbreda church ruins, 590, 596. \nKnockeyan,287. \n\nKnockfearna, 562. \n\nKnockgraffon, rath, 610. \n\nKnockmagh, view from, 244. 390. \n\nKnockmeledown mountains, 523; summits of, 52S. \n\nKnockminaune, 271. \n\nKnockmoy, tomb of Cathal Crovdearg O\'Conor, 238 ; curious \n\nancient fresco in, 239; opinions of Petrie. Ledwich, \n\nButton and O\'Brien on, 239. \nKnockshegowna, 200. \nKnowth, mound of, 279. \nKohl, J. G. , on Black valley, 23; on Giant\'s Causeway, 163, \n\n164 ; on Galway, iSo. \nKylemore, 207 ; pass and lough, 224. \n\nLacy, Michael, covers the retreat at Scullagh gap, 402. \nLacy, Hugh de, left in charge by Henry II., 310; builds \n\ncastles in Carlow, 403. (?>ee passim, 249, 267, 492 . \n\nslain, 250.) \n\nRobert de, 249. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Walter de, 249, 288. \n\nLacys, de, drive out de Courcy, and obtain possession of \n\nUlster, 591; passim, 256, 208, etc. \nLabig yennuddah, Edward\'s bed, on Cromwell hill, 616. \nLady\'s Island (sea) lake, 499. \nLagan, source of, 590, 596. \nLake, royalist general, 183. \nLakes and Loughs, principal: intra., iii., iv. \n\nAllen, 487, 520. \n\nAllua, 460. \n\nArderry, 194. \n\nArran, 510. \n\nAuger, 21. \n\nBallanahinch, 194. \n\nBallycuirke, 192. \n\nBelfast Lough, no. \n\nBlack, 19. \n\nBofin, 194. \n\n\n\nLakes and Loughs, principal. \xe2\x80\x94 Continued : \n\nBray, upper and lower, 78. \n\nBroad, 98. \n\nBunny, 579, \n\nCaolin, 136. \n\nCarra (Keriy), 50. \n\nCarra, 3S2, 383, 390. \n\nCarrawmore, 3S2. \n\nin Clare, 519. \n\nin the Commeragh mountains, 531. \n\nConn, 390. \n\nCorrib, 191, 230. \n\nCoumshinaun, 531. \n\nCrossa, 136. \n\nCullaun, 579. \n\nCuUen, 383. \n\nCull in, 390. \n\nCummeen, Thomeen, 19. \n\nDan, 75, 77. \n\nDearg (Shannon), 243. \n\nDerg, 177. \n\nDerivaragh, 286. \n\nDerryclare, 194, 196. \n\nDoo, 393, 579. \n\nDunlewy, 514. \n\nEnnel, or Belvidere, 286. \n\nErne, 480, 487. \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\x94 Esk, 514. \nFee, 204, 227. \n\nFeeagh, 398. \n\nin Fermanagh, 481. \n\nFin (Clare), 579. \n\nFinn, 393, 514. \n\nFurnace, 398. \n\nin Galway (300), 178. \n\nGara, 477, 487, 510. \n\nGarrowin, or Glendalough, Connemara, 202. \n\nGill, 510, 511. \n\nGlencar, 510. \n\nGlendalough (Wicklow), 84 \n\nGraney, 579. \n\nof the Gray Phantom, 531. \n\nGougane Barra, 406, 459. \n\nInagh, 194, ig6. \n\nIne, 462. \n\nInchicronan, 579. \n\nInchiquin, 579, 587. \n\nIron, or Hiern, 2S6. \n\nKelly\'s, 102. \n\nKey, 477, 4S7. \n\nKillarney, lower, middle and upper lakes, described, \n\n23, 24, 30, 31, etc. \n\nKylemore, 201, 224. \n\nLady\'s Island, 499. \n\nLarne, 127. \n\nLene. (See Killarney.) \n\nLein (Westmeath), 286, 288. \n\nLochan-bric-Dearg, 23. \n\nLooscanagh, 7. \n\nLuggelaw, or Tay, 75. \n\n\n\n634 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nLakes and Loughs, principal. \xe2\x80\x94 Continued : \nMackanagh, 579. \n\nm Magillicuddy\'s Reeks, 42. \n\nMask, 230, 382, 383, \n\nMoume, 514, \n\nMuck Lesser, 227. \n\nNacung, 514. \n\nNakeeroge, 399. \n\nNaneevin, 192. \n\nOakport. 4S7. \n\nO\'Grady, 579. \n\nOorid, 194. \n\nOutra, 243. \n\nOwel, 286, 287. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Pallacappul, 224. \n\nRamor,266. \n\nRee, 286, 290. \n\nRosroe, 579. \n\nRoss, 192. \n\nShindella, 194. \n\nStrangford, 5S9. \n\nTadun, 579. \n\nin Westmeath, small loughs, 286. \n\nLalor, James Fenton, 337. \n\nLambay Island, 306. \n\nLand League, 510. \n\nLanesborough, 2S6. \n\nLanigan, Dr., error of, 475 ; on the age of St. Patrick, \n\n594- \n" Lantern of Ireland," 546. \nLanyon, Chas., surveyor and architect, 115. \nLaoghaire, king, 252, 263, holds festival at Tara, when \n\nSt. Patrick lights the Paschal fire, 264 ; warned by \n\nthe Druids, 264. \nLaracor, 269, 270. \nLaragh, central point for Wicklow tourist, 79 ; glens and \n\nroads which unite at, 80, 81, 84, 95. \nLarcom, sir Thomas, 260. \nLarne, 124, 127. \nLa Touche, 74, 76. \nLaune, river, iS. \n\nLauzun, count, lands with the French at Kinsale. 445. \nLawless, 180. \nLayd, church of, 134. \n" Leaps of Ossian\'s Greyhounds," 498. \nLecale within the pale, 592, 594. \n\nLedred, bishop, embellished St. Canice\'s cathedral, 545. \nLedwich, Dr., 239 ; on legend of St. Senanus, 588. \nLee, river, course of, 408 ; beauty of from Queenstown to \n\nCork, 415 ; compared to the Bosphorus, Hall and \n\nForbes on, 416 ; expands into lough Mahon, 418 ; \n\ninundation of, 432; outlet from Cork, 439; valley \n\nof, 440. 459- \nLeenane, 229, 390, 393. \nLeighlin Bridge, 403. \nLeigmonshena (Shannon Pot), 520. \nLeitrim, county of, 487 ; character and extent, 487. \n\nvillage, 4S7. \n\nLeix, principality of, 570. \n\nLeixslip, 379 ; castle, 572 ; Salmon Leap, 294. \n\n\n\nLeslie, sir John, concessions for accommodation of lough \nDearg pilgrims, 517. \n\nLeth Conn, 178. \n\nLeth Mogha, 178. \n\nLetterbrecan, ascent of, 203 ; view from, 204. \n\nLetterfrack, 222 ; school at, founded by Mr. Ellis, 223. \n\nLetterkenny, 517. \n\nLever, Charles, 363 ; residence of, 379. \n\nLewis, Topographical Dictionary of Ireland, 522. 592, 598, \netc. \n\nLia Fail, Stone of Destiny, 263, 265. \n\nLiber Hymnoruin , yjo. \n\nLiffey, rise of, 78 ; inundation of, 313; bridges over, 314, \n330, 331 ; embanked, 31S ; quays, 326 ; docks, 327 ; \nbetween Kildare and Dublm, 572 ; suburban places \non, 379. \n\nLifford, 514. \n\nLimenueh. St. Patrick\'s sister, 242. \n\nLimerick, county, 551 ; its heroic memories and attrac- \ntions, 551 ; general features, 551, 552. \n\ncity of, historical notice of, 554 ; its mayoralty older \n\nthan that of London, 554: seat of royalty trans- \nferred to, from Cashel, 554 ; conflicts with the \nAnglo-Normans, 554 ; castle and bridge built, 554 ; \nwalled and fortified, 554; during the Williamif: \nwar, 555 ; great defense of, 555, 556 ; courage of \nthe women, 557 ; capitulation, 55S ; treaty, 558 ; \nnew town, 558; bridges, bells, etc., 558; suburbs \nof, 559. \n\nearl of, 560. \n\nLinen manufacture in Ireland, 119 ; development of, 120. \n\nHall, Dublin, 342. \n\nLion\'s Head Rock, 585. \n\nL\'lrlande, Sociale, Politique et Nelis^ieuse, G. de Beaumont, \n\nquoted, intro., xii. \nLisaughter hill, view from, 195. \nLisbum, 176, 596 ; Jeremy Taylor buried in, 176. \nLiscanor, 5S0. \n\nLisheen-ard, artificial cave, described, 390. \nLismore Castle, 408, 523, 528, 529. \nLissoy, Goldsmith\'s " Deserted Village," 291. \nLochlannabh (Scandinavians), 424. \nLockhart, J. Gibson, 450. \nLogan stone at Killarney, 23. \n\nat Brown\'s Bay, 126. \n\nLoman, St., first Bishop of Trim, 252. \n\nLondon, sea-coal prohibited in, 139. \n\nLondonderry, county of, 573 ; character of surface, 576 ; \n\nits rivers, "slacks" and mountains, 576; basaltic \n\npromontories, 578. \nLondon Society (journal), on trout fishing, 214. \nLongfields, tombs of, 415. \n\nLongfellow, H. W., on voyages of St. Brendan, 60. \nLongford, county of, 290 ; chief interest of, 290. \n\ntown, 290. \n\nLoop Head, 579. \n\nLords\xe2\x80\x94 Lieutenant, Deputy, Justices. (See Viceroys). \n\nLoretto convent, Rathfarnham, branch of, at Gort, 243. \n\nLough Derg, pilgrimage, 517. \n\nLough Gur, 55S, 559 ; legends of, 562. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n63s \n\n\n\nLoughill, 551. \nLoughrea, 243. \nLouth, county of, 4S9 ; great historical interest of, 489 ; \n\ntopographical features, 489. \nLover, Samuel, monument to, 350. \nLover\'s Leap, the (Dargle), 71 \nLuby, Thos. Clarke, 175. \nLucan, 294, 379. \nLucas, Dr. Chas., 320 ; grave of, 360 ; Dr. Johnson on, 360 ; \n\nSmith\'s statue of, 35S, 366. \nLudlow, parliamentarian general, 37 ; memoirs quoted, 38. \nLuganure lead mines, 80. \nLuggelaw, or lough Tay, 75 ; description of, 75. \n\nwaterfall, 76. \n\nLugnaedon, St. Patrick\'s nephew, his monument, 242. \n\nLugnaquilla, ascent of, 102 ; view from, 102. \n\nLugs, of mountains, 396. \n\nLurgan, 120, 476. \n\nLurgethan, 132. \n\nLusk, Round Tower, 302 ; synod held by St. Adamnan in \n\nancient abbey, 303. \nLying-in Hospital, Dublin, 355. \nLynch, 180, 186. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 James, abbot of Cong, 386. \n\nWalter, mayor of Galway, 238. \n\nMaam, a center for tourists, 194. \n\nMaam Turk, 226. \n\nMacaulay, T. B., on the beauties of Killamey, 49. \n\nMacAuIafle, Sitric, king of Dublin, 344. . \n\nMacCartan, 592. \n\nMacCarthy. Cormac, king and archbishop, founds Cormac\'s \n\nChapel at Cashel, 612. \n\nCormac, the Strong, built Blarney Castle, 450. \n\nDenis Florence, his poem on Derrynane, 52 ; Alice \n\nand Una, a tale of Keim-an-eigh, 461 ; ballad of \n\nthe " Bell-Founder," 558 ; declared Poet Laureate \n\nof Ireland, 340. \nDermot, prince, Danish tribute, 423 ; pays homage to \n\nHenry II., 424 ; renounces allegiance and besieges \n\nCork, 424 ; slain, 426. \n\nDonald, takes Cork, 426. \n\nDonagh, lord Muskerry, defends Ross castle, 37. \n\nof Desmond, drives the invaders from Limerick, 554. \n\nMacCarthys, founded Muckross, 10. \n\nof Muskerry, 427. \n\nMacCarvill, archbishop, founds Hore abbey, 614. \n\nMacCoghlan, 471. \n\nMacculind, St., of Lusk, 302. \n\nMacCumhal, Finn, 162, 163. \n\nMacDonneUs, earls of Antrim, 128. \n\nMacDonnell, 1,32, 168 ; treacherously seizes Dunluce, 170. \n\nMacDunlevy, 592. \n\nMacEUigot, Roger, governor of Cork, 428. \n\nMacGennis, 592. \n\nMacGeoghegan, abbe, 598. \n\nMacGilmore, 592. \n\nMacGregor, Scottish clan largely emigrated to Ulster, name \n\nchanged, 592. \nMacGuire, 4S1. \n\n\n\nMacHale, John, archbishop of Tuam, 244 ; statue of, 2\\^. \n\nMai\'Jiarl Casil, 605. \n\nMackay, Dr., botanist, on the plants and flowers of Conne- \nmara, 208. \n\nMackey (Lomasney), captain Wm., captured in Cork, 430. \n\nMacKinnons of Skye, name changed in Ulster, 592. \n\nMacLiag, chief bard of Brian Boru, 586. \n\nMacLoughlin, Donnel, destroys Kincora, 519. \n\nMacMahon, 488. \n\nMacMahons, rise to importance in Thomond, 5S2. \n\nMacMurragh, Dermod, king of Leinster, 30S ; his first \nallies arrive at Bag-an-Bun, 497 ; treaty with the in- \nvaders, 506 ; concealed in Ferns abbey, 508. \n\nMacnaghten, 16S. \n\nMacNamara, 5S2. \n\nCon., built Quin Abbey, 587. \n\nMacNeill, sir John, engineer, 494. \n\nMacNevin, Thomas, Hist. Volunteers, 320, 321 ; Confisca- \ntion of Ulster, 458, 576. \n\nMacQuillan, 168. \n\nMacroom, 439, 443. \n\nMacToole, king, cemetery in Glendalough, 91. \n\nMacWilliam, Eighter, 179. \n\nOughter, 179. \n\nMadden, Dr. R. R., 362. \n\nMagazine, Ditblin Saturday, quoted, 45. \n\nMagdalen Church, Drogheda, 492, 493. \n\nMagh Breagh, 248. \n\nMagh-inis, St. Patrick lands at, 594. \n\nMaghera Round Tower, 591. \n\nMagillicuddy\'s Reeks, 38 ; ascent of Carran Tual, 42 \nlakes in, 43. \n\nMagilligan, 576. \n\nMagnus, Danish leader, slain, 490. \n\nMagrath, Myler, apostate bishop, 515 ; his castle, 518 ; \narchbishop of Cashel, his tomb, 614. \n\nMaguire, 4S4. \n\nJohn Francis, mayor of Cork, 430. \n\nMahon, Dean, retreat in Connemara, 202. \n\nMahony, Rev. Francis {Father Protti), intro., v., 41S ; \n"Bells of Shandon," 435; definition of "blar- \nney," 450. \n\nMaidens, the, 127. \n\nMalachy III., bishop, endows Downpatrick abbey, 595. \n\nMalahide, 294, 299. \n\ncastle, 299 ; interior, 300 ; portraits in, 300. \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 abbey, tomb of Maud Plunkett, 302. \n\nbay, 293. \n\nMalbay, 580. \n\nMalchus, bishop of Glendalough, 85. \n\nMalin head, 519. \n\nMallow, 409, 452 ; its waters, 452. \n\nMalton, James, artist, on the old Parliament House, 370. \n\nMandevilles, 122. \n\nMandeville, sir Thos., killed defending Carrickfergus, \n122. \n\nMangan, James Clarence, 3S0. \n\nMangerton, ascent of, 43 ; view from, 45. \n\nMannan Mac Lir, 232 . \n\nManieeny, 57S. \n\n\n\n6.:i6 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nMS. inateiials of ancient Irish Jiistoiy. (See O\'Curry, \n\npassim, ) \nMarble, Kilkenny noted for, 546. \nMardyke, the, Cork, 431. \n\nMaritime Ports of Ireland. (See Marniion, passim.) \nMarket Hill, 476. \n\nMarks, Jenico, mayor of Dublin, 311. \nMarlborough, earl of, attacks Cork, 42S. \nMarmion, Anthony, Hist. Maritime Ports, iii, 1S6, etc. \nMartin, 180. \n\nof Connemara, 195, 202, 2io. 21S ; feud with O\'Fla- \n\nherty, 210; hospitality and misfortunes, 211; \nMoore on, 211 ; Thackeray\'s visit to, 211. \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 John, arrested, 336, 337 ; death and burial, 601. \n\nMartineau, Harriet, description of Connemara, ^95. \n\nMaryborough, 479. \n\nMar}\', queen, portrait, 379. \n\nMask, lough, 232. \n\nMassarene, lord, 374. \n\npark, 174. \n\nMass Rock, the, 560, 562. \n\nMasterson, sir Thomas, constable of Ferns, 50S. \nMathew. Father, Foley\'s statue of, Cork, 420 ; unvailing, \n430; birthplace of, 614. \n\ncemetery, Cork, monument by Hogan in, 435. \n\ntower, 419. \n\nMaumont, French general at Derry, slain, 57S \n\nMaurice, prince, arrives at Kinsale, 445. \n\nMaxwell on Mayo scenery, 391. \n\nMaynooth, 567 ; ancient seat of the Geraldines, 568 : \n\nRoyal College of St. Patrick at, 56S ; grants to, \n\n568 ; Dunboyne establishment, 569. \n\nCollege, Dr. Russell, president, 502. \n\nMayo, county of, 3S1; character of its scenery, 382; northern \ncoast, 3S2. \n\nearl of, seat, 272. \n\nlord, monument to, 350. \n\nMcAllister\'s castle, (Kenbane), 140. \nMcArt\'s fort, 1 14. \n\nMcCracken, Henry Joy, leads United Irishmen at Antrim, \n176. \n\nMcGee, Alexander, dean Swift\'s servant, tablet to, 350. \n\nMcMahon, relieves Charlemont fort, but is refused admis- \nsion, 476. \n\nMcManus, Terence Bellew, 3S0, \n\nMcMurrough, Donald Art, escape of, 363. \n\nMcQuillan, 144. \n\nMeagher, Thomas Francis, speeches 1S4S; arrested, 336, \n377 ; approved by citizens of Cork, 429 ; tried in \nClonmel, 607, passim^ 534, 569. \n\nMeany, Stephen Joseph, national publicist, thrice arrested, \n584- \n\nMeath, county of, 245 ; scenery of. 245 ; seat of the an- \ncient supreme monarchy, 245 ; established as mesnal \nland for the supreme monarchy, 247 ; its name, \n248 ; its plains first cultivated, 247 ; charter of to \nHugh de Lacy, 249 ; divided into Westmeath, \nKing\'s county and Longford, 249 ; numerous cills \nor cells in, 275. \n\nMeeting of Glens, 106. \n\n\n\nMeeting of the Waters, 103 ; description of, 104 ; Moore\'s \n\npoem on, 104 ; the second, 106. \nMellifont abbey, 494. \n\nSt. Bernard\'s chapel, 495. \n\nbaptistery, 495. \n\nMemorandums of a Tour of Ireland, by sir Jolm Forbes \n\n(see forhes passim). \nMercer, Mrs. Mary, founds Mercer hospital, 318. \nMessina, straits of, optical illusions in, 172. \n\xe2\x96\xa0\' Metal Man," the, 531. \nMethodist chapel, Armagh, 475. \nMilesius, 492. \nMilford, 404. \nMilitary roads, 79-83. \nMilliken, R. A., author cf the " Groves of Blarney." grave \n\nof, 419. \nMillstreet, 406, 459. \nMilltown, 379. \nMillvale, 532. \nMilman, dean, 235. \nMints, Clonmines, 500 ; Limerick. 534 ; Trim, 255 ; Wa- \n\nterford, 534. \nMissett, William de, 249. \nMitchel, John, approved by citizens of Cork, 429 ; arrested, \n\n336 ; Hist. Ireland, 336 ; Last Conquest of Ireland \n\n(Perhaps), 337 ; interred in Newry and tomb of, 596- \n\n601 ; pulpit from which his father preached, 597. \nMitchelstown Caves, 610 ; description of, 615, 616. \nMoher Cliffs, 5S0, 588. \nMolaisse, St., 4S5. \nMoUna abbey, 523. \nMolock, temple of the golden, 55, \nMolyneux, sir T., on New Grange, 279. \nMoNAGHAN, county of, 4S8 ; general surface, 488. \nMonaniny castle, 452. \nMonasterboice, 494 ; antiquities. Round Tower, churches, \n\ncrosses at, 496. \nMonasterevan, 570 ; \n\nMonasticon Ilibernicuin on St. Kevin, 94. \nMonea castle, 4S3. \nMonks of Kilcrea, quoted, 12, \nMonks, tomb of, at Muckross, 15. \nMonkstown castle, economical mode of building, 418, \nMonteagle. lord, statue of, Limerick, 558. \nMontgomery, family, 593. \n\nof the Ards, 123. \n\nlord, seizes Dublin castle. 313 \n\ngeneral Richard, birthplace, 514. \n\nMontmorency, Harvey de, quarrels with Strongbow and \n\nfounds Dunbrody, 501. \n\nMoore abbey, 570, \n\nMoore, Thomas, enters Trinity college, his schoolmaster, \n368, 374 ; birthplace, 375 ; the legend of lough \nNeagh, intra., HI., 175 ; poem on Innisfallen, 34, \non " O\'Donoghue\'s mistress," 42 ; on St. Kevin. 94; \non Mrs. Tighe, 99 ; on Dick Martin, 211 ; his \nlibrary and harp, 378 ; passim. 259, 409, etc. \n\nMoravian settlement, 174. \n\nMorgan, lady, iS, 363 ; portrait of, 376. \n\nMorison, Fynes, 4S8. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n637 \n\n\n\nMornington, earl of, his musical compositions, 270. \nMorris, a persecutor, 442. \nMortimer, 267. \n\nEdward, earl of Marcli, lord lieutenant, 254. 426. \n\nRoger de, 254. \n\nlord Roger, justiciary, takes counsel at Killtenny, 543. \n\nMosse, Dr. Bartholomew, founder of Lying-in Hospital, \n\nDublin, 355. \nMound of the Hostages, Tara. 263. \nMountains, Hills and notable Elevations : \n\nAghla, 514. \n\nAtherry, Peak of, 195. \n\nBallingarry hills, 552. \n\nBallyhoura, 407. \n\nBan duff, 603. \n\nBarnesmore, 514. \n\nBen-bawn, 20S, 224. \n\nBenbraddagh, 57S. \n\nBenbulben, 510. \n\nBencor, 20S. \n\nBencuUaghduff, 208, 224. \n\nBendowglass, 207. \n\nBenevenagh, 576, 578. \n\nBengorm, 398. \n\nBengower, 208, \n\nBen Lettery, 2c8. \n\nBennebola, 178. 194. \n\nBen-scalp diva, 200. \n\nBessie Bell, 536. \n\nBinbane range, 514. \n\nBlackstairs, 401, 404, 498, 507. \n\nBlackwater, 407. \n\nBluestack, 514. \n\nBogra, 459. \n\nBrandon, 404. \n\nBraulieve, 487. \n\nBrockagh, So, 84. \n\nBuckoogh, 39S. \n\nCaherbarna, 459, \n\nCarlingford, 491. \n\nCarntogher, 576. \n\nCarran Tual, 21. \n\nCashel, head of, 195, 204. \n\nClaughan-ard, 220. \n\nComadery, 84. \n\nCommeragh, 522, 602. \n\nCoolnacartan, 195. \n\nCove Cork, 406, 407, 40S. \n\nCroaghconnellagh, 515. \n\nCroaghgorm (Bluestack), 514. \n\nCroagh Patrick, 3S2. \n\nCroghanmoira, S3. \n\nCromaglan, 38. \n\nCurlew, 477, 510. \n\nDerrybawn, 86. \n\nDerryclare, 195, 20S. \n\nDerrycunnihy hills, 24. \n\nDerryiiasagart, 443. \n\nDerryveagh range, 514. \n\nDevil\'s Bit, 602, 604. \n\n\n\nMountains, Hills and notable Y.\\ft\\\'&Wow%.~Coiitinned : \n\nDiamond Mountain, Lelterfrack. 222, 223. \n\nDivis, 114. \n\nDonald\'s hill. 576, 578. \n\nDoorish range, 514. \n\nDouce, 71, 76, 79. \n\n- \xe2\x80\x94 Drum, 522. \n\nof Dublin, 63. \n\nDunmanway, 408. \n\nDysart hills, 479. \n\nEagle mountain (Mourne), 590. \n\nEagle\'s Nest, Bantry, 46S. \n\n" \'\' Killarney. \n\nErrigal, 514, \n\nEshery, 132. \n\nFews, 488. \n\nFore, Ben of, 289. \n\nForth, Ben of, 498. \n\nGaltee, 551, 602, 604. \n\nGarraun, 224, 226. \n\nGlena, 35. \n\nGlendowan, 514. \n\nGolden Spears (Wicklow), 64. \n\nGuUogeaboy, 510. \n\nHungry mountain, 467. \n\nKeeper, 602. \n\nKenramer, 146. \n\nKilraanganagh hills, 604, \n\nKing\'s mountain, 510. , \n\nKippure, intra., y\'\\., 63, 78, 294. \n\nKirrikee, S3. \n\nKnockanore, 528. \n\nKnockanask,52S. \n\nKnockeyan, 287. \n\nKnockfearna, 552. \n\nKnock-Layd, 130. \n\nKnockmeledown. 522, 602, 604. \n\nKnocknafallia, 52S. \n\nKnocknacloghole, 77. \n\nKnocknarea,\' 511. \n\nKnocknastorkin, 528. \n\nKnockpatrick. 552. \n\nLegavannon, 576. \n\nin Leitrim, 4S7. \' \n\nLisoughter. 195. \n\nLetterbrecan, 203, 204. \n\nLugdufT, 83, 86. \n\nLugnaquilla, S3, 102. \n\nLurgethan, 132. \n\nMaam Ean, 200. \n\nMaam Thomas, 396. \n\nMaam Turk, 17S, 200, 201, 224, 230 \n\nMagillicuddy\'s Reeks, iS, 3S. \n\nMalloge (Connemara), 223. \n\nMangerton, ^3. \n\nMary Gray, 536. \n\nof Mayo, 391, 393, 395, 398, 399. \n\nMizen-head, 465. \n\nMon-a-Vullagh, 522, 531. \n\nMount Gabriel, 463. \n\n\n\n638 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nMountains, Hills and notable Elevations. \xe2\x80\x94 Continued : \n\nMount Gunnery, 462. \n\nMount Leinster, 401, 404,498, 507. \n\nMourne, 491, 5S9. \n\nMuckish, 514. \n\nMuilrea, 227, 382. \n\nMuUacop, S3. \n\nMunterlowney, 536. \n\nNachore, 129. \n\nNephin, 3S2, 400. \n\nOorid, 194. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Ox Mountains, 382, 510. \n\nPaps, 38. \n\nPurple, iS, 21, 22, 38. \n\nSawel, 536, 576. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Scar, 77. \n\nSeefingen. 78. \n\nSheehy Mountains, 459. \n\nSlieve-an-ierin, 487. \n\nSlieve-ardagh, 602, 603. \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 Slievebeagh, 488. \n\nSlieve Beg (Mourne), 590. \n\nSlieve Bernagh, 587. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\xa2 Slieve Bingian, 590. \n\nSlieve Bloom, 479. f \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Slieve Buckli, 77. \n\nSlievebuUiagh, 132. \n\nSlievebuy, 507. \n\nSlieve Croaghan, 399. \n\nSlieve Croob, 590, 599. \n\nSlieve Daeane, 511. \n\nSlieve GuUion, 473, 576. \n\nSlieve Mish (Kerry), 54, 57. \n\nSlieve Mish, 174. \n\nSlieve More (Achill), 399, \n\nSlieve More, 590. \n\nSlieve Muck. 590. \n\nSlieve-na-man, 602, 603. \n\nSlieve-na-muck, 602. \n\nSlieve Partree range, 394. \n\nSlieve Phelim, 551, 603. \n\nSlieve Snaght, 514. \n\nSlieve Snaght, east, 518. \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 Slish, 511. \n\nSperrin, 536. \n\nSugar-Loaf (Cork), 467. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Sugar-Loaf (Wicklow), 64. \n\nTable Mountain, 83. \n\nThonelagee, 80. \n\nToomies, 18, 22, 38. \n\nTore, 48. \n\nTrooperstown, 82. \n\nTrostan, 132. \n\nTruskmore, 510. \n\n"Twelve Pins," Bennebola, 194-198. \n\nVinegar Hill, 507. \n\nWar, 79. \n\nWhite Mountain, 507. \n\nin Wexford, 498. \n\nin Wicklow, 294. \n\n\n\nMountjoy, 419 ; lord deputy, pacifies Cork, 427. \nMount Juliet, 537. \n\nKennedy, 102. \n\nMelleray, or abbey of St. Bernard la Trappe, 523 ; \n\nhistory and description of, 524 ; discipline of the \nmonks, 525 ; their hospitality, 527 ; MSS. in library, \n528. \nMellick, 4S0. \n\nNephin, 390. \n\nOorid, 194. \n\nMourne Mountain, fine view of, 590. \n\nMoville ruins, 591, 597. \n\nMoycuUin (Ma^\'/t-U/lin), 192,232. \n\nMoyne abbey, 400. \n\nMoytura, 244, 390. \n\nMuckross Abbey, 8 ; described, 11 ; Weldon, 14 ; cloister, \n\n14 ; by moonlight, 16 ; demesne, 9. \nMuilrea, 390. \nMuUinahone, 605. \nMuUingar, 286, 2S9. \nMulrany, view from, 391. \nMultifernam abbey, 287 ; the Confederate War planned \n\nthere, 288. \nMunroe, Covenanter, directs the Island Magee massacre, \n\n126; treacherously seizes earl of Antrim, 170 ; \n\nburns Antrim, 176. \nMuredach, cross of, 495, 496. \nMurlough, 133. \nMurphy. Father John, a patriot leader in \'98, 402. \n\nFather Michael, a priest-general, killed at Arklow, 107. \n\nNicholas, 323. \n\nMurray, col., kills gen. Maumont, 57S. \nMusgrave, on proofs of rebellious instincts, 572. \nMuskerry, lord, takes Limerick, 427. (See MacCarthy, \n\nDonagh.) \nMy roe, 576. \nMyrtle grove, Raleigh\'s house, 43S. \n\nNaas, first revolt in \'98, 570 ; tower and moat at, 570. \n\nNachore hill, 129. \n\nNagle, 458. \n\nNames, change of, by statute, 592. \n\nNangles, 255. \n\nNanny River, 275. \n\nNantes, revocation of the Edict of, 428. \n\nNarrow-Water, 590 ; castle, 601. \n\nNation, journal, 335, 336, 374, 403. \n\nNational Gallery, Dublin, works in, 375. \n\njournals suppressed, 336. 337. \n\nNavan, 259, 266. \n\nFort, 475. \n\nNeagh, lough, intro., iii., 473 ; tributaries of, 576. \n\nNeedham, royalist general, 107. \n\nNelson-Bridge, 500. \n\nNelson monument, Dublin, 255. \n\nNemedian colony, 414. \n\nNemedius, 248. \n\nNenagh, 605, 615. \n\nNessan, St. 306, 434. \n\nNew Bermingham, 54S. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n639 \n\n\n\nNewcastle, 590, 599. \n\nNew Church, lough Gur, 559, 562. \n\nNewenham, sir E., 360 ; View of Ireland, 446. \n\nNewfoundwell, viaduct, 494. \n\nNew Grange, Irish pyramid, 247 ; one of the oldest Celtic \n\nmonuments, notice of, 279 ; Llhwyd, Molyneux, \n\nWilde and T. Davis on, 279, 2S1. \nNew Hall, 584. , \nNewport, Mayo\', 391, 396. \nNewport, Tipperary, 605. \nNew Ross, 49S, 506, 537. \n\nNewry, 590 ; ruins, 591 ; derivation of name, 601. \nNewtown (Meath), remains at, 251. \nNewtownards, 597. \nNewtownbridge, ruins at, 258. \nNewtown-Hamilton, 476. \nNewtown Liraavady, 576. \nNewtown-Mount Kennedy, 100. \nNewtown-Park obelisk, 3S0. \n\nNewtown-Stewart, 536. \xe2\x80\xa2\xe2\x80\xa2 \n\nNiagara Falls petrified, 135. \nNimmo, Mr., engineer, 231. \nNine-Mile House, 539. \nNobber, 263. \n\nNore, principal river of Kilkenny, 537 ; its course, 603. \nNorris, 180. \n\nsir J. D., 454. \n\nNorthern Coast of the County of Antrim, etc. (see Hamilton, \n\npassim). \nNoted journalistic localities in Dublin, 374, \nNuala, princess, 3S6. \nNuala, O\'Donnell, founded Franciscan abbey, Donegal, \n\n515- \nNugent, Gilbert de, 249. \n\nroyalist general, 176. \n\nlord Delvin, escape of, 363. \n\nO\'Brenan, 538. \nO\'Brien, 562, 582. \n\nAra, 605. \n\nbishop, author of Irish-Etiglish Dictionary, 415. \n\nBrien, driven from Urkuffs, 543. \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 Donagh Carbragh, founds the abbey of Holy Cross, \n\n615. \n\nDonald, paid tribute to Henry III., 5S2 ; drives the \n\ninvaders from Limerick and builds the cathedral, \n554; founded cathedral at Killaloe, 586; defeats \nthe English at Thurles, 606 ; erects cathedral at \nCashel, 613 ; passim, 554, 570, etc. \n\nHenry, on Knockmoy frescoes, 239. \n\nMurtaugh, destroys the grianan of Aileach, 519 ; \n\nking transferred seat of royalty from Cashel to \nLimerick, 554. \n\nof Thomond, defeats Strongbow, 605. \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x80\x94 Teigue, prince of Thomond, built Inchiquin castle, \n587. \n\nTuriough, wastes Cork, 423. \n\nTirlough, defeats the Butlers and burgesses of Kil- \n\nkenny, 543. \n\xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x80\x94 William Smith, 531 ; approved by citizens of Cork, \n\n\n\n429 ; ^.rrest of, 336 ; tried in Clonmel, 607 ; tomb \nof, 564 ; statue, 335. \n\nO\'Brien\'s country made shire ground, 582. \n\nO\'Byrne, Clan-Ranelagh, 64. \n\nO\'Byrne, Feagh MacHugh, a famous Wicklow chief, 84 ; \ndefeats the English at Glenmalure, 84 ; his head \nspiked on Dubhn castle, 363. \n\nO\'Cahan, 144 {see O\'Kane, 573). \n\nO\'Canes, 574-578. \n\nO\'CaroIan, Turlogh, bard, 268 ; buried at Kilronan, 478. \n\nO\'Carrol, 605. \n\nO\'Cleary, Michael, chief of the "Four Masters," 515. \n\nO\'Connell, Daniel, at Derrynane, 52 ; first speech against \nthe Union, 366 ; elected for Cork, 428 ; at Tara, \n265 ; speeches of, 331 ; presents a crown to \nGeorge IV., 331 ; prosecution of, 332 ; attended to \ncourt by the lord mayor and corporation, 335 ; tri- \numphal procession from jail, 335; monument in \nDublin, 335 ; Hogan\'s statue of, 366 ; Round Tower, \nto, 380 ; statue in Limerick, 558 ; statue in Ennis \nby Cahill, 584. \n\nJohn, prosecuted, 335. \n\nMaurice, 51. \n\n" O\'Connell\'s Country," 51. \nO\'Connor, 5S2. \n\nFergus, Chartist leader, 270. \n\nRoger, 270 ; buried, 442. \n\nSligo, 510. \n\nMr., of Cork, builds the Mathew Tower, 419. \n\nO\'Conor, antiquities of Roscommon connected with, 478 ; \n\nmonuments to the king of the race, 510. \n\nCathal Crovdearg, king, 238. \n\nDr. C. , 264 ; on legend of St. Senanus, 588. \n\nMaurice, the canon, 386. \n\nRoderick, king, 231, 239 ; attacks Trim, 253, 308, \n\n383 ; retires to Cong abbey, 3S5 ; where buried ? \n385 ; passim, 179, 478, 582, etc. \n\nTuriough, king, receives a relic of the True Cross \n\nfrom the Pope, 387, 388. \n\nOctennial bill carried by Irish Parliament, 320. \n\nO\'Curry, E., 188, 380; his birthplace, 58S ; on "Crom- \nlechs" and "Druids\' Altars," 126 ; his Planners \na7id Cus/otns of the Ancient Irish, edited by Dr. W. \nK. Sullivan, 435 ; on the Annals of the Four Mas- \nters, %\\1^. \n\nO\'Dallany, Felix, bishop, founded St. Canice\'s cathedral, \n545- \n\nO\'Dea, 605. \n\nO\'Dowd, 253. \n\nO\'Doherty, sir Cahir, burns the new town at Derry, 574. \n\nKevin I., arrested, 336, 337. \n\nO\'Donaghoe, 605. \nO\'Donegan, 605. \n\nO\'Donnell, 123, 515. \n\nHugh, escape of, 363. \n\nHugh Roe, 515. \n\nNial Garv, 115. \n\n"earl of Tyrconnel," flight of, 576. \n\nO\'Donoghue of the Lakes, 11 ; legend of, 39, 40 ; his mem- \nory at the lakes, 40 ; his mistress, 42 . \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nO\'Donovan, Dr. John, 89 ; on St. Patrick\'s skill in con- \nverting the pagan Irish, :g ; reference to, 188, 241, \n259, 260 ; on Beltinne, 264 ; on early Irish cove- \nnants, 267, 375, 380, 533 ; birthplace, 550. \n\nO\'DriscoUs, 464 ; castle of, 465. \n\nO\'Dubhagan, Matthew, founded the abbey on Devenish, \n486. \n\nO\'Dubhghennain, one of the " Four Masters," 515. \n\nO\'Duffy, Daniel, bishop, 38S. \n\nMuireadach, archbishop, 3S8. \n\nO\'Dugan\'s Topography, 591. \nO\'Dwyer, 605. \n\nO\'Echan, Maclisa, artist of the Cross of Cong, 3S8. \nO\'Flaherty, 179, 253. \n\ndame, made a captain by queen Elizabeth, 232. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 Emun /aider, encounters with Martin, 210. \n\nFather Francis, of Arran, igo. \n\nRoderick, on the Twelve Pins, 207. \n\nO\'Fogarty, 605. \n\nO\'Garbh, 582. \n\nOgygia, intro., I. \n\nOgham writing in cave of Dunloe, iS. \n\nO\'Hagan, canon, on O\'Connell, 332. \n\nlord chancellor, 340. \n\nO\'Halloran, historian, 423. \n\nBurke\'s village schoolmaster, 459. \n\nO\'Hanlon. Rev. J., 235 ; Lives of Irish Saints, 536. \nO\'Heffernan, 605. \n\nO\'Hegny, 4S1. \n\nOir Mumhan (Ormond), 605. \n\nO\'Keeffe, John, dramatist, 107. \n\nO\'Kelly, 253, 592. \n\nOkenden, on Killarney, 27. \n\nO\'Kennedy, 605. \n\nOld-Bridge, battle of the Boyne, 283, 492. \n\nOlderfleet castle, 127. \n\nOld Ross, royal residence, 402. \n\nOld Weir Bridge (Killarney), rapids, 30. \n\nO\'Leary, Rev. Arthur, 437. \n\nArthur, victim of the Penal laws, slain, 442. \n\nO\'Loghlen, sir Michael, statue of, 358. \n\nO\'Lonergan, 605, 610. \n\nO\'Loughlin, 5S2. \n\nO\'Maelchonaire, Ferfessius, one of the " Four Masters," \n\n515- \nOmagh, 536. \n\nO\'Mahony, John, 3S0, 423 ; escape of in \'4S, 531. \nO\'Mahonys of Kerricurrihy, 427. \nO\'Malley, Grace, carries off the heir of Ilowth, 304, 395 ; \n\nher reply to queen Elizabeth, 39S. \nO\'Meagher, 605. \nO\'Meara, 605. \nO\'Melaghlin, Murchard, king, 249 ; founds Bective abbey, \n\n258. \nO\'More, dynast of Leix, 479, 480. \nO\'Neill, 122, 175, 515, 535, 591, etc. \nConn, loses his lands in the Ards, 593. \n\nHenry and Art, escape of, 363. \n\nHenry, artist, on the Book of Kelts, 267. \n\nHugh, 123 ; defeats the English and slays Seagrave at \n\n\n\nClontibret, 488 ; raises the Munster chiefs, 458 ; \nlegend of his troop of horse, 519 ; soldier and dip. \nlomat, 536 ; flight of, 576. \n\nHugh Boye, drove the savages to the little Ards, 598. \n\ncolonel Hugh, defends Limerick, 555. \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 Nial, presumptive king, 475. \n\nsir Phelim, unsuccessfully attacks Drogheda, 493, \n\n536- \n\nShane 119, 174, English hatred of, 174 ; defeats the \n\nEnglish at Derry, 574 ; repulsed at Ardkeen, 598 ; \nsovereign of Ulster, 535 ; murdered, and his head \nset up on a pole, 363, 535. \n\nO\'Neills (O\'Nial), chief seat of, 535 ; inauguration chair \nof, 175- \n\nO\'Neills of Clandeboy, tomb of, 175. \n\nO\'Nials (see O\'Neill). \n\nOne Man\'s Path, 514. \n\n"Orangemen," first lodge founded, 476. \n\nOrbsen, MacAlloid, 234. \n\nOrdnance Survey of Ireland, 260. \n\nO\'Regan, Teague, governor of Charlemont, 475 ; starved \nout, 476. \n\nO\'Reilly, hish Writers, 495. \n\nOrigin and History of hish Names of Places (see Joyce, \npassim). \n\nOrmond, entertains Richard II. , 543. \n\nearl of, annexes part of Queens County to Kilkenny, \n\n53\xc2\xbb- \n\neighth Earl of, Lord Deputy, 539. \n\nlord lieutenant, concludes a treaty with the Confed- \nerate Parliament, 544. \n\ntenth earl of, estates of Jerpoint granted to, 541. \n\n-; effort to unite loyal Protestants and Catholics, 427. \n\nduke of, takes Carrickfergus castle, 123 ; proclama- \ntion excluding Catholics from towns, 123. \n\nduke of, establishes woolen trade in Carrick, 608. \n\nportrait of Duke, 379. \n\nupper and lower, 604. \n\nOrosius, intro., i. \n\nO\'Ryan, of Hy-drone, conflict with Slrongbow, 402. \n\nO\'Shaughnessy, 253. \n\nO\'Sheas, 538. \n\nOssian, his grave at Layd, 134. \n\nOssory, 537. \n\nearl of, portrait, 379. \n\nO\'SuUivan, castle of, 467. \n\nMore, castle, 18, \n\nO\'SuUivan\'s cascade, 33. \n\nOtway, 229, 230, 231, 234, 394, 463, 472, 482, etc. \n\nRev. C, on lough Corrib, iiitm., iv.. .v. ; on St. \n\nBrendan, 60 ; on Glendalough, 89 ; references /a.f- \n\n.r//\xc2\xab. \nO\'Toole, St. Laurence, 344. \n\nsept of, 66. \n\nOughterard village, 194. \n\n(Connemara), 2 to. \n\nOulart Hill, 498. \nOutra, Lough, 243. \n\ndemesne and castle, 243. \n\nOvens, the, 442. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n641 \n\n\n\nOwenglen river, 218. \n\nOzanam, Frederick, on veneration for the dead, intra., x. \n\nPacata Hibeniia, 610. \n\nPagan Irish, conversion of, 89. \n\nPakenham, dean, monument to, 351. \n\nPale, the English, 250. \n\nPallas, birthplace-of Goldsmith, 2gl. \n\ngreen, 552. \n\nPanormo, Constantine, sculptor, group by, 376. \n\n" Papist, five pounds for your horse !" 442. \n\nParliament of 1309, held in Kilkenny, 542. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 also held in Kilkenny during the years 1331, 1347, \n\n1356, 1367, 1370, 1374. 543- \n\nof 1419, Naas, 570. \n\nof 1463, Wexford, 505. \n\nof the Confederation, 543 ; how constituted, 544. \n\nof 1689, 314. \n\nof 1703, Dublin, 31S. \n\nfrom 1688 to 1782, 319. \n\nof 1729, fight on the supplies, 319. \n\nheld in Chichester house, 318 ; in Blue Coat Hospi- \ntal, 319 ; in Christ Church, 344 ; in Drogheda, 492. \n\nfirst meeting in College Green, 3x9. \n\nconflicts with the viceroy, Octennial bill, etc., 319, \n\n320, 322. \n\nHouse of Commons burned, 322. \n\nthe speaker declines to yield the mace at the \n\n" Union," 371. \n\nPamell, Charles Stewart, 430. \n\nsir John, residence at Avondale, 103. \n\nParsonstown (Birr), 471. \n\nPaschal II., Pope, sends a part of the Holy Cross to \nO\'Brien, 615. \n\nPassage, 41S. \n\nPasses in the Donegal Highlands, 514. \n\nPatrick, St., a swineherd, 128, 174 ; place of first landing, \n65 ; opposed by Leinster men, 66 ; repulsed at \nBray river, sails north and lands in Lecale, 594 ; \nhospitably received by Dicho, 594 ; celebrates mass \nin a barn, 594 ; raises the cross at Slane, 247 ; \nlights the Paschal fire, 264 ; appears before the \nking. 265 ; founds Trim, 252 ; converts the king \nof Dublin, 347 ; founds Armagh, 474 ; at Alta- \ndaven, 536; founds St. Mungret\'s, 558; founds a \nmonastery and plants a yew at Newry, 601 ; bap- \ntizes king ^\'Engus, and consecrates St. Ailbe at \nCashel, 612 ; vision of at Cashel, 612 ; his death \nand age, 594 ; obsequies, 595 ; relics enshrined, \n595 ; shrine desecrated, 598 ; his skill in convert- \ning the pagan Irish, 89 ; tooth of, 386 ; passim, \n2S2, .475, 566, etc. \n\nPearce, sir E. L., surveyor-general, 371. \n\nPercy, bishop, buried in Down, 596. \n\nPembroke, earl of, founded Tintern Abbey, 500, 546. \n\nPenal statutes, 319. \n\nPennant, Mr., error in comparing Fingal\'s Cave and \nGiant\'s Causeway corrected, i55. \n\nPenn, William, 419 ; becomes a Quaker at Cork, 427 ; sent \nto prison, 427. . \n\n\n\nPenn, admiral sir William, born at Macroom, 436 ; Penn= \nsylvania named in his honor, 443. \n\nPennyburn mill, sortie from Derry on, 578. \n\nPenny Journal, Dublin, on Dublin city, 326. \n\n" Peep-o-day Boys," 476. \n\nPeppard, Richard, builds Trim Castle, 254. \n\nPerrott, sir John, 520, 593. \n\nPerry, Anthony, patriot leader in \'98, 250. \n\nPeter and Paul, SS., abbey of (Meath), 251, 258. \n\nPetrie, Dr. George, researches in Arran, 190, 193, 239, 241 ; \non the Boyne, 246, 259, 260 ; Essay on Tara Hill, \n264. \n\nPettigo, 516. \n\nPettit, Wm., 249. \n\nPetty, sir Wm., 343. \n\nPhcenix Park, 379 ; Pillar, 379. \n\nPhillipstown, 479. \n\nPictorial Guide, etc., 430. \n\nPicturesque Europe, on Dunluce Castle, 170. \n\nPierce\'s Table, 102. \n\nPier at Dublin, 295. \n\nPiers, longest in the world, 295. \n\nPiers, sir Pigot, 380. \n\nPigeon-House fort, Dublin, 295. \n\nPigeon-Hole cave, 383. \n\nchasm, 234. \n\nPike, the, at Dunloe, 21. \n\nPlayfair, Dr., on basaltic pillars of Fair Head, 135. \n\nPleaskin, 150 ; names of cliffs and capes near, 150, 152 ; \ndescribed, Forbes, Hamilton, Hoare. Hall, on, 151, \n154- \n\nPlunkett, Maud, maid, wife and widow in one day, 302. \n\nNicholas, speaker of the Confederate Parliament, \n\n544- \n\nPlunkett, Rev. R., abbot, 267. \n\nPlutarch, intra., I. \n\nPoetry quoted : Irish Rivers, by Edmund Spenser, intra., \nv.; The Ocean, by John Augustus Shea, intra., vii. ; \ninscriptions, etc., on tomb at Muckross, 11, 14, 15 ; \nMonastery Hospitality, 12 ; Innisfallen, Thomas \nMoore, 34 ; O" Donoghue\' s Mistress, by T. Moore, \n42 ; Derrynane, by Denis Florence MacCarthy, 52 ; \nVoyage af St. Brendan, by D. F. MacCarthy, 58 ; \nCeltic Crosses, by John Savage, 94 ; Spanish poem \non Devifs Glen, by Villanueva, 97 ; Lines an Mrs. \nTighe, by T. Moore, 99 ; Meeting of the Waters, by \nT. Moore, 104 ; Hy-Brassail, by Gerald Griffin, \n191; Tara and Conneniara, by T. Moore, 211; \nfrom Henry IV. (Shakspere), 254 ; from Heniy VI. \n(Shakspere), 256 ; famous lines by Bishop Berkeley, \n414 ; Cork Men and New York Men, by T. D. \nSullivan, 430 ; lines by Father O\'Leary, 434 ; \nlines by Father Prout, 435 ; lines on Bandon Gate, \nby Dean Swift, 446 ; localities near Kilcolman and \nIrish Rivers, by E. Spenser, 455 ; Gougane Barra, \nby J. J. Callanan, 460 ; Ballyspellin Spa, by Dr. \nSheridan, 548. \n\nPoers, 532. \n\nPoolanass fall, gi. \n\nPortadown, 476. \n\n\n\n64: \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nPortaferry, 5S9 ; Savage\'s castle at, 598. \n\nPortlaw, conflict at, 532 ; cotton factory, 523. \n\nPort Largi, 533. \n\nPortlock\'s Geology, 155. \n\nPortmarnock, 299, 3S0. \n\nPort na Spania, 154. \n\nPortora, Royal School, 4S3. \n\nPortrane, 299. \n\nPortrush, 17:, 576. \n\nPortumna, 243. \n\nPotatoes first planted in Ireland at Youghal, 43S ; Shak- \n\nspere on, 438. \nPoid-an-Iffrin (Hell-hole), 440. \nPoul-a-phuca waterfall, description of, 108. \nPower, captain, defense of Dunmoe, 272. \nPowers, 534. \n\nPowerscourt, demesne, 71 ; deer park and waterfall, 72. \nPoynings, sir Edward, lands at Howth, installed at Dublin, \n\n311. \n\nLaw, 492. \n\nPrendergast, Maurice, leader of the first Anglo-Norman \nexpedition, 497. \n\nRev. Patrick, last " Lord Abbot" of Cong, 3S6 ; pre- \n\nserved the Cross of Cong and other relics, 3S6. \n\'Prentice boys shut the gates of Derry, 577 ; result of, 578. \nPress, the, of \'98, 374. \nPrice (ap Rice), 592. \n\nProtestant (French) families settled in Cork, 42S. \nPsalter of CasJiel, 558. \n\nTara, 278. \n\nPsyche, a poem, 98. \n\nPtolemy, intro., \\., 134, 148, 179, etc. \nPugin, architect, 17, 507. \nPullans, the, 514. \nPunchestown races, 570. \nPyne, chief justice, 450. \n\nQuakers in Clonmel, 607. \n\nQuarries, green marble, Galway, 217. \n\nQueen\'s College, Belfast, 115. \n\nGalway, 1S5. \n\nCork, 431. \n\nForbes on efficiency of. 435. \n\nQueen\'s county, 479 ; ancient principality of Ossory and \n\nLeix, 479. \nQuin abbey, 5S6, 587. \n\nP.aheny, 306. \n\nRailroad, first in Ireland, 332. \n\nRaleigh, sir Walter, arrives in Ireland, 43S ; receives large \n\ngrants of Desmond\'s lands, 438 ; mayor of Youghal, \n\n438 ; plants potatoes, 438 ; visited by Spenser, 439 ; \n\nconnected with the massacre at Smeruick, 55 ; dies \n\non the scaffold, 458. \nRam\'s Island, 174, 175. \n\nRandolph, English general, defeated at Derry, 574. \nKanger, American ship, captures the Drake, 124, \nRaphoe, 514. \n\nRapin, historian, house of, 515. \nRatlibeggan, 270. \n\n\n\nRathdrum, 82 ; bridge at, 82, 102. \n\nRath Laoghaire, Tara, 260. \n\nRathlin, (Raghcrry) Island described, 146 ; Danish de- \nscent and Scotch massacre, on, 147 ; Robert Bruce\'s \nrefuge on, 147 ; English invasion of, 14S ; optical \nillusions at, 171 ; supposed to have connected \nScotland and Ireland, 14S. \n\nRathmacnee castle, 504. \n\nRath-ita-Seanadh, rath of the synod, Tara, 262. \n\nRath-na-Righ, the king\'s rath, Tara, 262. \n\nRaths in county Down, 590, 591. \n\nRay, Thomas M., prosecuted, 335. \n\nRaymond, Dr., vicar of Trim, 270. \n\nRebellious instincts, proofs of, 572. \n\nRecess, 225. \n\nRed Bay, 131 ; castle, 132. \n\nRed Branch knights, 475, 591. \n\nReggio, Straits of. Fata Motgana in, 171. \n\nReginald\'s tower, 533. \n\nReilly, Thomas Devin, 337. \n\nResidences of Leinster kings, 402. \n\nReynolds, T., an informer. 362. \n\nRheban, ancient city in Ptolemy\'s map, 570. \n\nRhinn-Mahon ruins, 419. \n\nRichard II. imprisons the sons of Gloucester and Lan- \ncaster in Trim, 254 ; holds splendid court in Dub- \nlin, 311 ; holds court in Drogheda, 492 ; arrives at \nKilkenny, 543. \n\nRichard, duke of York, lord lieutenant, 255. \n\nRichardson, Dr., Whin-dykes, 155. \n\nRidge of old Leighlin, 402. \n\nRincrew castle, 522. \n\nRinuccini, nuncio, 544. \n\nRinvyle, 224. \n\nRivers and streams, principal, intra., iv.. v. \n\nAan, 131. \n\nAnnamoe, 76, 79. \n\nAnner, 608, 611. \n\n-. Ardera, 548. \n\nArifl, 131. \n\nArigna, 487. \n\nArra, 603. \n\nAvonmore, 79, 103. \n\nAwbeg, 409. \n\nAw-Marteen (Blarney), 451. \n\nBally mena, 174. \n\nBandon, 40S. \n\nBann, 576, 590. \n\nBanna, 507. \n\nBarrow, 402, 501. \n\nBreagh, 542. \n\nBealanabrack, 230. \n\nBlackwater(Meath), 266. \n\nBlackwater (Munster), 406, 522. \n\nBlackwater (Ulster), 475. \n\nBoyle, 487. \n\nBoyne, 246, 471. \n\nBricky. 530. \n\nBride, 406, 442, 452. \n\nBrosna, 286, 471, 603. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n643 \n\n\n\nRivers and streams, principal. \xe2\x80\x94 Continued ; \n\nBundoragh, 393. \n\nCalligan, 530. \n\nCamlin, 2go. \n\nClare river, 236. \n\nClashaluin, 611. \n\nComaun at tlarney, 451. \n\nDall, 131. \n\nDargle, 67. \n\nDawross, 224. \n\nDinan, 537. \n\nDodder, 294. \n\nDun, 131. \n\nDeel, 552. \n\nEany-heg, 514. \n\nEany-more, 514. \n\nErne, 481. \n\nFaughan, 576. \n\nFergus, 579. \n\nFinn, 514. \n\nFiorish, 487. \n\nFoyle, 536, 576. \n\nFuncheon, 604. \n\nGallive, 191. \n\nGalway river (Kerry), 24. \n\nGarrogue, 510. \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\x94 Gearhameen, 22. \n\nGlanealo, the infant Avonmore, 95. \n\nGlencoaghan, 210. \n\nGlendassan. 94. \n\nGlenislorane, 67. \n\nHen, 408, 462. \n\nInny, 286, 290, 291. \n\nKerry, 67. \n\nKing\'s river, Kilkenny, 539. \n\nLagan, 114, 590. \n\nLaune, iS. \n\n\'- Lee, 406, 408. \n\nLiffey, 78, 295. \n\nLoe, 19, \n\nMain, 174. \n\nMattock, 494. \n\nMourne, 536. \n\nMoy, 400. \n\nMoyola, 576. \n\nNanny river, 275. \n\nNenagh, 603. \n\nNevvry river, 600. \n\nNore, 603. \n\nOwen Carran, 514. \n\nOwen Erriff, 393. \n\nOwenmore, 210, 214, 520. \n\nOwen-reagh, 576. \n\nPoolanass, 9I. \n\nReelan, 514. \n\nRinn, 290. \n\nRoe, 573, 576. \n\nRye-water, 567, 572. \n\nShannon, 520, 603. \n\nScar, 499. \n\n\n\nRivers and streams, principal. \xe2\x80\x94 Continued : \n\nShimna, 599. \n\nSix-Mile Water, 176. \n\nSlaney, 402, 498, 507. \n\nSuck, 177. \n\nSuir, 501, 522, 603. \n\nSuUane, 443. \n\nTolka, 294. \n\nVartry, 95, 98. \n\nRoaring Water bay, islands in, 462, 463, \n\nRobber\'s bridge, 271. \n\nRobinson, primate (lord Rokeby), re-edifies Armagh cathe- \ndral, 474. \n\nRoche, 414, 428, 452, 458. \n\nDominick, mayor of Cork, 427. \n\nMaurice, mayor of Cork, 427. \n\nof Artramont, romance of, 506. \n\nRoche\'s castle, 491 ; demolished by Croiiiwell, 492. \n\nRoche\'s point, 409. \n\nRochester, earl of, portrait of, 379. \n\nRochfort, Simon de, 25S. \n\nRoe, Mr. Henry, restores Christ Church, 346. \n\nRosanna, demesne of, 98. \n\nRoscommon, county of, 477 ; boundary of, 477. \n\ntown, 478. \n\nRoscrea, 602, 605 ; remains and Round Tower, 615. \n\nRoss, general, obelisk to, 601, \n\nRoss, natural bridges, 580, 583, 588. \n\nCatholic bishop of, his bravery at Carrig-a-droid, 443. \n\nRosscarbery, 461. \n\nRoss castle and island, 36 ; capitulation of, 38 ; Willis on, \n33. \n\nRosscor, 48 1. \n\nRosse, earl of, astronomer, 472. \n\nRosserk abbey, 400. \n\nRosstrevor, 590 ; 600 ; beauty of, 600 ; general Ross\' ob- \nelisk, 601. \n\nRostellan Castle, 436. \n\nRotunda, Dublin, 355. \n\nRoothe, 53S. \n\nRoundstone, 208, 214, 215. \n\nRound Towers : \n\nAghadoe, 17. " \n\nAntrim, 176. \n\nArdmore, 530. \n\nArdpatrick, 553. \n\nBallybeg, Cork, 454. \n\nCarrigeen, 553. \n\nCashel, 612. \n\nCastlebar, 400. \n\nCastledennot. 565. \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x80\x94 Clondalkin, 380. \nClones, 488. \n\nClonmacnoise, 471. \n\nCloyne, 414. \n\nCroom, 533, 562. \n\nDevenish, 485-86. \n\nDonaghmore (Heath), 268. \n\nDownpatrick, 591. \n\nDrumbo, 591. \n\n\n\n644 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nRound Towers. \xe2\x80\x94 Co7itiniteii : \n\nDrumcliffe, 512. \n\nIniscaltra, 587. \n\nInniscattei\'y. 5SS. \n\nIreland\'s Eye, 306. \n\nKells, 268. \n\nKilcullen, Old, 565. \n\nKildare, 565. \n\nKilkenny, 545. \n\nKillala, 4C0. \n\nKillashee, 565. \n\nKilmacduagh, 242. \n\nKilmallock, 553, 563. \n\nKilree, 540. \n\nLusk, 2g4, 302. \n\nMaghera, 591. \n\nMcCarthy\'s, Clonmacnoise, 471. \n\nMonasterboice, 496. \n\nO\'Rourke\'s, Clonmacnoise, 471- \n\nOughterard (Kildare), 565. \n\nRam Island, 175. \n\nRoscrea, 615. \n\nSt. Bennan, 244. \n\nSwords. 302. \n\nTaghadoL", 565. \n\nTrummery, 176. \n\nTulloherin, 549. \n\nRound Towa-s of Inland, The, by H. O\'Brien, 239. \nRoundwood, reservoir of Dublin Water-works, 75, 95. \nRoyal Dublin Society incorporated. 31S, 330, 338, 358, \n\n371 ; eminent art students of, 37O. \n\nHibernian Academy, 376 ; exhibitions at, 377. \n\nIrish Academy, 266 ; its treasures, 378. \n\nRuins, eloquence of, intro,, xi. \n\nRun T/uvugii the West of Iniitnd a^a\\&&, 195, 220. \n\nRun Through the South of Ireland, 430. \n\nRupert, prince, arrival at Kihsale, 445. \n\nRush, 302, 3S0. \n\nRussell, Dr., on people and customs of Forth and Bargy, \n\n502, 504. \nRyan, monk of Melleray, MS. Psalter by, 52S. \n\n\n\nSahhall Padruic, 594. \n\nSackville street, Dublin, 353. \n\nSaintfield, rath, 590. \n\nSally-Gap, 78. \n\nSalmon leap, Coleraine, 575 ; Leixlip, 572. \n\nSalmon, the country of. 216. \n\nSalruc, 226 ; pass, 227. \n\nSaltee Islands, 499. \n\nSalt-Pans, the, 136. \n\nSarsfield, Patrick, destroys King William\'s siege train, 555 ; \n\nforesight and activity at the defense of Limerick, \n\n556. \nSaul Abbey, 594. \nSavage, 122 ; Island Magee, 126, 299 ; early settlement in the \n\nArds. 592 ; predatory attacks on the MacGilmores, \n\n592 ; family disputes settled by lord deputy, 598 ; \n\nadopted Irish customs, 59S ; lord deputy enters \n\n\n\nthe Ards against them, 59S ; monuments to family \nof, 598 ; old castle at Portaferry, 599. \n\nsir Arthur, 570. \n\nJohn, gets into St. Kevin\'s Bed, 92 ; lines on Celtic \n\nCrosses, 94 ; " \'98 and \'48," 498 ; in the mountains \nwith O\'Mahony, 531 ; passim, 312, 337, etc. \n\nRaymond (A.D. 1196), built castle at Ardkeen, 598. \n\nRaymond, i6th century, 598. \n\nsir Robert, defeats the Irish at Antrim, 176. \n\nRoland, 598. \n\nScalp, descriptions of the, 63. \n\nScariff Island. 51. \n\nScenerj\', of lakes, rivers, mountains and coast (see Intro- \nduction, passim). Ruins, intro. viii., of the Boyne, \n246, 272 ; Clew Bay, 392, 395 ; Glen Eriff to West- \nport, 393 ; from Newport-Mayo to Achill, Hall on, \n396 ; Bunowen to Achill, 398 ; loughs Conn and \nCullin. 400; from Carlow to Leighlin\'s Bridge, 404 ; \nthe Lee from Cork to the sea, 415, 420 ; in the \ndistrict of Bandon, 446 ; at Blarney, 44S ; lower \nvalley of the Blackwater, 454 ; southwestern dis- \ntrict of Ireland. 463 ; features of the great estu- \naries, 466 ; of Lough Erne, 482, 483 ; Carlingford, \n490, 491 ; from Sligo town, 510 ; lough Gill, Sligo, \n511 ; from Knocknarea, 512 ; Donegal, 513 ; of the \nBlackwater (Munster), 522 ; Blackwater at Cappo- \nquin and Lismore, 528 ; at and from Lismore castle, \n529 ; valley of the Suir, 531 ; of the Nore, 537, 53S; \nThomastown (Kilkenny), 549 ; Inistioge, 550 ; in \nthe mountains of Londonderry, 576 ; on the sea- \ncoast from Portrush to Magilligan, 578 ; from Loop \nHead, 580 ; from Killaloe to Scariff, Clare, 5S7 ; \nsouthern part of county Down, 590 ; from heights of \nCastlewellan, 599 ; of the Galtees, 604 ; of the \nKeeper mountains, 604 ; in the valley of the Suir \nnear Carrick, 608 ; around town of Tipperary. 61 T, \netc., etc. \n\nSchomberg, 114, 123 ; tablet to, 350. \n\nSchools of learning, famous: Armagh, 250. 474 ; Bangor, \n250, 596 ; Clonard, 250 ; Clonmacnoise, 250, 472 ; \nKildare, 566 ; St. Finnbar\'s. 423 ; Trim, 252. \n\nScott, sir Walter, on Killarney, 30 ; at Glendalough, 89 ; \nmoved by Miss Edgeworth\'s writings, 291 ; visits \nthe scenery of the Lee, Cork, and kisses the Blar- \nney stone, 450; passim, 150, 592. \n\nScullagh Gap, defense of, 402. \n\nSculpture, ancient Irish, notices of at Glendalough, 8S (see \nArt, \'ancient Irish). \n\nScurlog, William de, 251. \n\nScurlogstown castle, 251. \n\nSeagrave, a gigantic officer slain by O\'Neill, 48S. \n\nSenanus. St., founds monastic establishment on Inniscattery, \n588 ; legend of, 588 ; his oratory, 588. \n\nSeven Churches, Vale of. (See Glendalough.) \n\nShakspere quoted, 254, 256. \n\nShanagolden, 552. \n\n" Shandon Bells," intro., v. \n\ncastle, erected. 42O ; attacked, 427. \n\nchurch and steeple (St. Anne\'s), Father O\'Leary on, \n\n434- \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n645 \n\n\n\nShane\'s Castle, 172, 174. \n\nShanganagh, 66, 294. \n\nShannid, 553 ; rath and ruins, peculiar features of, 559. \n\nShannon, its course, intro., iv. ; source and course in \nCavan, 520 ; course of from lough Allen, 487 ; at \nAthlOne, 287 ; fertility of its banks, 579 ; steamboat \ntrip down, 587 ; 286, 2go, 487, 552, 560, etc. \n\nharbor, 177 ; navigation, 48 7. \n\nShea, hon. George, gift to Cork Library, 435, 53S. \n\nJohn Augustus, Address to the Ocean, intra., viii. \n\nSheares brothers, patriots, executed, 323 ; buried, 360 ; \n\nbodies preserved in vaults of St. Michan\'s, 361. \nShee Drum, 612. \nShee, justice, 538. \n\nsir Martin Archer, artist, 376. \n\nRobert, his house used for the Confederate Parlia- \n\nment, 543. \nSheep-House, rallying point of the Jacobites, 284. \nSheepshead, 466. \nShelton Abbey, 103. \n\nSheridan, Richard Brinsley, his schoolmaster, 374. \nShiel, Richard Lalor, 534. \nShimna stream, 599. \nShip-pool Castle, 446. \nShortals, 538. \n\nSidney, sir Henry, Lord Deputy, 123, 5S2. \n" Silken Thomas," rebellion of, 312. \nSimnel, Lambert, crowned in Dublin, 311, 534. \nSitric, the Danish king, defeated at Clontarf, 307, 308. \n\nDanish prince, slain, 490. \n\nSkerret, 180. \n\nSkerries, 3S0. \n\nSkellig rocks, the, 54. \n\nSkibbereen, 408, 462. \n\nSkull, 462. \n\nSlane, 265 ; abbey and castle of, 265, 272, \n\nSlane, recollections awakened by, 273 ; Wilde on, 274. \n\nSlaney, course of, 499 ; its scenery, 507. \n\nSUabh-Martiii, Howth. 306. \n\nSliddery-ford, cromlech and pillar stones at, 599. \n\nSlieve-bulliagh, 132. \n\nSlieveleague, 514. \n\nSlieve-Mish, 128, 174. \n\nSlieve-na-man, 607, 608. \n\nSlieve-na-griddal, 595. \n\nSuGO, county of, 509 ; features of, 509 ; lakes and moun- \ntains, 510. \n\ntown, notice of, new Town Hall, 510, 512. \' \n\nSmerwick, slaughter of Spaniards and Italians at, 55 ; Hall \non, 55- \n\nSmith, Edward, sculptor, 352 ; notice of, 358 ; statue of \nLucas, 366. \n\nSmith, John, sculptor, 354 378 ; statue of Walker, 577. \n\nJI r. , on gap of Dunloe, 1 9 ; History of Cork, 464 ; \n\nHistory of Kerry, 51. \n\nSovarkie, ancient Milesian king, built Dun Sovarkie \n(Dunseverick), 143. \n\nSpanish Organ, 154. \n\nSpenser, Edmund, inti-o., i.; description of Ireland, intra., \niii.; recommends the extirpation of Feagh Mac \n\n\n\n410 ; \nforti- \n\n\n\nHugh, 84 ; his Faeiie Qtteene, 409 ; visits to Raleigh \nat Youghal, 439 ; his residence at Kilcolman, 455 ; \ncomposes the Faciie Qucene, 455 ; local correct- \nness of his verses, 455 ; notice of his career in Ire- \nland, 456 ; grants of land 456 ; marries an Irish \ngirl, 456 ; his house sacked and burned, 458 ; dies \nin England, 458 ; his descendants, 458, 538, etc. \n\nJohn le, first civic magistrate of Cork, 426. \n\nSpencer, Thomas le, sells Kilkenny Castle, 544. \nSpike Island, 409 ; John Mitchel imprisoned on \n\nmeeting Edward Walsh, the poet, there, 411 \n\nfications, 412. * \n\nSquares in Dublin, 374. \nSt. Ann\'s (near Blarney), 452. \nSt. Bernard\'s Chapel and baptistry, Mellifont, 495. \nSt. Canice\'s cathedral, historical notice, 545 ; Round Tower, \n\n545 ; well, 545, 546. \nSt. Catherine\'s abbey, Callan, 539. \nSt. Colman, church of, 395. \n\ncathedral, Dromore (Down), 593, 596. \n\nSt. Declan\'s Well, 529. \n\nSt. Donlaugh\'s church and well, 299. \nSt. Eden, cathedral, Ferns, 508 ; monument of, 50S \nSt. Fenton\'s church, 306. \nSt. Finnbar\'s cathedral, 432. \nSt. George, sir Oliver, seizes Dublin Castle, 313. \nSt. Germains, lord, opens Industrial Exhibition, 33S. \n\xe2\x96\xa0 St. Keevan\'s church, 464. \nSt. Kiernan, chair of, 545. \nSt. Laurence (Howth), 29S, 304. \n\ngate, Drogheda, 493, 494. \n\nSt. Leger, Dame, monument to, 350. \nSt. Mary\'s church, Clonmel, 609. \n\nDrogheda, 494. \n\nIsle, earl of Selkirk\'s, sacked by Paul Jones, 124. \n\nSt. Michan, old Danish church of, 314, 359 ; patriots buried \nin, 360 ; remarkable antiseptic qualities of its \nvaults, 361 ; organ of, 362. \n\nSt. Molaisse, house of, Devenish, 485. \n\nSt. Mungret\'s priory, 558. \n\nSt. Nicholas, church of, Carrickfergus, 124. \n\nCollegiate church of Galway, 183. \n\nSt. Patrick\'s cathedral, Dublin, thanksgiving service in, \n314 ; knights installed in, 322 ; the national Ca- \nthedral of Ireland, 346 ; history of, 346, 347 ; monu- \nments in, 350, 351. \n\nchurch, Inchangoill, 240. \n\npurgatory, Lough Derg, 516. \n\nwell, Clonmel, 608. \n\nSt. Ruth, general, killed, 478. \n\nSt. Selskar, church ruins, 506 ; destroyed Ijy Cromwell, 506. \n\nStackallan, holy well, 272. \n\nStaffa, Fingal\'s Cave in, and Giant\'s Causeway compared, \n\n166 ; extent of the former, 166. \nStag-hunting at KiUarney, 26. \nStaigue fort, model of, 7. \nStanihurst, 539, 546. \n\nStatistical Sicrz\'ey of Connau^ht. Dutton, 239. \nSteele, Thomas, 335. \nSteevens, Dr., founded Steevens hospital, Dublin, 318. \n\n\n\n646 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n" Stella," tomb of, 350, 571. \nStephens, James, arrest and escape of, 339, 546. \nSterne, Lawrence, escape when a child, 79, 608. \nStevenson, sir John, tomb of, 346. \nStewart, sir Robert, 351. \nStokes, Dr., 188. \n\nStone of Destiny, 263 ; Petrie and Wakeman on, 263. \nStone-roofed buildings, 299. \n\nStory, historian, on the defense of Limerick, 556. \nStrabane, 536. \n\nStrafford, lord, originated the linen trade, 342, 570. \nStrancally, new castle, 523. \nStrangford lough, 589. \n\ntown, 589. \n\nStranorlar, 5 14. \n\nStrawberry"beds, Dublin, 294, 379. \n\nStreet, G. E., architect, 346. \n\nStrongbow, 308 ; tradition of slaying his son, 402 ; defeated \n\nat Thurles, 605 ; monument to, 344 ; inscription, \n\n346 ; passim, 500, 505, etc. \nStruel, holy wells of, 595. \n\nStruggle for Irish JVationnlity, The, by John Savage, 312. \nStuart, History of Armagh, 474. \nSuir, the, 506, 522 ; course of, 522, 537 ; towns and ruins \n\non, 605. \nSullivan, A. M., secures site for statue to Grattan, 367. \nT. D., song on Fenian scare in Cork, 430; presides \n\nat Tone memorial meeting, 571 ; Diiblin Guide \n\nBook, 362. \n\nWilliam Kirby, President Queen\'s College, Cork, 435, \n\nSunday\'s Well, 42S. \n\nSutton, 306. \n\n" Sweet Auburn," 291. \n\nSweetman, John, exile of \'98, 377. \n\nSwift, Jonathan, birthplace, 351 ; tomb and bust of, 350 ; \nat Kilroot, 124; at Laracor with "Stella," 270; \nfounds St. Patrick\'s hospital, 31 8 ; addition to in- \nscription on the gate of Bandon, 446 ; breaks with \n"Vanessa" at Celbridge, %1\\ \\ passim , 269, 546, \netc. \n\nSwords, 294 ; round tower, church and castle at, 303 ; S.S. \nColumbkill and Finian at, 303. \n\n\n\nTacitus, intro., i. \n\nTacumshin (sea) lake, 499. \n\nTailors\' Hall, Back Lane, Dublin, 562, \n\nTailtean (Teltown) royal palace and games at, 266. \n\nTalbot, 122, 255 ; Malahide, 299, 300. \n\nsir John, Shakspere on, 256. \n\nTallaght, 108, 380. \nTanderagee, 476. \n\nTara, 247, 248, history and description of, 259-264 ; St. \n\nPatrick at, 265 ; monster repeal meeting at, 265. \nTate, Nahum, version of the Psalms, 446. \nTaylor, Bayard, 170; on Fair Head, 135. \n\nJeremy, preached and died at Lisburn, 176. \n\nW. S. , History of Fine Arts in Great Britain and Ire- \n\nland, 359. \nTeach Cormaic, House of Cormac, Tara, 263. \n\n\n\nTeampull-na-Neavc, the Church of the Saint. 241 (in \n\nchangoill). \nTeampull Phaidrig on Inchangoill, 240. \nTeelin Head, 514. \nTeltown, 24S. \n\nTemplecoran, first Presbyterian church in Ireland, 124. \nTemplemore, 605. \nTempleogue, 379. \nTemplerobin ruins, 413. \n\nThackeray, W. M., on Killarney, 31 ; visit to Connemara, \n202, 211, 212, 218 ; on Irish trout, 212 ; on statue \nof bishop Doyle, 403. \nTheatres (Dublin), 318, 328, 329, 330, 331. \n\nThe Recess, 194. \n\nThierry, A., historian, quoted, 122. \n\nThomastown, 537 ; niins in, 549 ; view from station, 549. \n\n(Tipperary), 614. \n\nThomond bridge. Limerick, 55S. \n\nThompson, general, 227. \n\n" Three Pigeons" of Goldsmith, 291. \n\nThurles, battle at, 605, 606 ; college and cathedral at, 614. \n\nThurot, commodore, captures Carrickfergus, 123. \n\nTichbourne, sir Henry, defends Drogheda, 493. \n\nTierney, Rev. T., prosecuted. 335. \n\nTighe, Mary, poetess, gS ; Moore\'s lines on, 99 ; died, \n550. \n\nMr., 537; Statistical Surz\'ey of Kilkenny, 547. \n\nTinnehinch, the residence of Grattan, 72. \n\nTintern abbey, 499, 500, 541. \n\nTipperary, county of, 602 ; productiveness and description \nof, 602 ; mountains of, 602 ; rivers of, 603 ; massive \ngrandeur of its mountains, 604 ; historical notice of, \n605 ; native families of, 605 ; progress of the in- \nvaders in, 605, 606 ; rise of Desmond and Ormond, \n606; becomes a Cromwellian plantation, 606; na- \ntionality of, 606 ; antiquities, towers, castles and \nabbeys in, 606. \n\ntown, 602, 605, 611. \n\nTisdall, Rev. chancellor, 340. \n\nTIachtga, 248. \n\nTobin, John, author of " The Honeymoon," buried near \nQueenstown, 414. \n\nTolka, literary associations with, 294. \n\nTollymore Park, 599. \n\nTone, Theobald Wolfe, 468 ; arrested, 517 ; executed, \n323 ; grave of, 571. \n\nToombeola bridge, 200, 214 ; abbey, 210, 215. \n\nTooreenacoona bridge, 201. \n\nTore mountain, cascade and lake, 7, 30. \n\nTor, Danish leader slain, 490. \n\nTor head, 134. \n\n" Tottenham in his boots\'^ 319. \n\nTouchets. 122. \n\nA Tour in Coiinaught. by Otway, 239. \n\nTours in O\'lster (see J . B. Doyle, /fl.f\xc2\xab>\xc2\xab). \n\nTownshend, lord, viceroy, 321, 322. \n\nTralee, 57. \n\nTramore, 531. \n\nTreachery, frequent practice of on the Irish, 50S. \n\nTreatv of Limerick, its violation, 558. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n647 \n\n\n\nTreaty stone, 555. 55S. \n\nTregury, archbishop, tomb of, 350. \n\nTresham, Henry, .376. \n\nTribune, Dublin journal, 336. \n\nTrim {Ath-Tndin), 250; king John\'s castle, 251 ; history \nand ruins, 252, 256 ; a mint in, 255 ; held by the \nConfederates, 255 ; history of recalls personages in \nShakspere, 256 ; Wellington monument, 269. \n\nTrinity College, Dublin, 318, 356. \n\nTristram (St. Laurence), 304. \n\nTrostan, 132. \n\nTuam, 244. \n\nTtiathal Teachtmar, king, 247 ; instituted feast of Beltinne \nat Usneach, 2S9. \n\nTuath-de-danaans, 247. \n\nTuath-Munkan, Thomond, or North Munster, 582 ; made \nshire ground, 582, \n\nTubbergrieve, 533. \n\nTubberneering, 498. \n\nTubrid church, 608. \n\nTuite, Richard, 249. \n\nTullaroan, 548. \n\nTulloherin Round Tower, 549. \n\nTully castle, 486. \n\nTunnel from Cork to Kerry, 470. \n\non Kenmare road, 7. \n\nTurlough-More and Turlough-Cor, 235. \nTurloughs, 232 ; in the West, 235. \nTurnerelli, sculptor, 378. \n\nTuskar light, 499. \n\nTwelve Pins, Bennebola, summits of, 200, 220. \n\nTyrawley district, 400. \n\nTyrone, county of, inhabited by the Scoti, 535 ; chief seat \n\nof the O\'Neills, 535 ; surface of, 536. \nTyrrell, de Lacy\'s deputy, 253. \n\nHugh, 249. \n\nTyrrell, Rev. Peter J., prosecuted, 335. \n\n\n\nUllagh Ulidia, 5gr. \n\nUlster, earl of, assassinated, 179. \n\nLondon company for the colonization of, 576. \n\nPlantation of, 576. \n\n" Union, The," accomplished, 323 ; Dublin before and \n\nafter, 327. \nUnited Irishmen, 374 ; leaders betrayed, 362. \nUnited Irishman, journal, 337. \nUniversity of Dublin (Trinity College), notice of, 367 ; \n\nsome eminent students of, 369 ; ancient MSS. in, \n\n370. \nUrban III., Pope, 387. \n\nUrrisbeg, 199 ; view from, 215 ; district of, 216. \nUrrismore, district of, 2i6. \n\nUsneach hill, first sacred fire lit on, 248, 268 ; royal pal- \nace on, 286; description of, 289. \nUssher, 247, 594. \n\nVader-fiord, 533. \n\nValentia Island, 52 ; Atlantic telegraph station, 53. \nVanessa. (See Van Homrigh.) \n\n\n\nVan Homrigh, Hester, Swift\'s Vanessa. 571 ; residence at \n\nCelbridge, 571 ; jealousy and death. 571. \nVan Nost, sculptor, 366 \nVales, Glens, etc.: \n\nAherlo, 602. \n\nBealanabrack, 230. \n\nBlack Valley, 22. \n\nCarnlough, 12S. \n\nClara, 79, 82. \n\nGolden Vale, 603. \n\nGlancree, 78. \n\nGlanismole, 294. \n\nGlenaan, 131, 132. \n\nGlenariff, 131, 132. \n\nGlenavon, 80. \n\nGlen car, 50. \n\nGlen-cuileann, 200. \n\nGlendall, 131, 132. \n\nGlendalough, 80. \n\nGlendassan, 80. \n\nGlendun, 131. \n\nGlen Hogan, 208. \n\nGlenmacanass, 80. \n\nGlenshesk, 139. \n\nLagan, 130. \n\nof Lough Inagh, 195. \n\nof the Roe, 573. \n\nof Wicklow, 62. \n\nScalp-an-columb, 200. \n\nShanganagh, 66, 294. \n\nVallancey, General, how he became interested in Irish \n\nstudies, 412. \nValley of Diamonds, 67. \n\nof the Suir, 531. \n\nVartry river, course of, 95 ; grand waterfall in entering the \n\nDevil\'s glen, 95, 98. \nVerdons, de, 299. \nVesey, de, built castle at Kildare, 566 ; fled to France, \n\n567. \nViaduct over the Blackwater, 454. \nViceregal courts, where held, 363. \n\nlodge, 379. \n\nViceroys, Lords Lieutenant, Lords Deputy, Lords Justice, \netc. : \n\nearl of Arran, 379. \n\nearl of Berkeley, 379, \n\nduke of Buckingham, 365. \n\nearl of Carlisle, 338, 365, 378. \n\nearl of Chesterfield, 379. \n\nearl of Clarendon, 365. \n\nsir Richard Cox, 379, 446. \n\nduke of Devonshire, 379. \n\nduke of Dorset, 319, 320, 365, 379. \n\nearl of Eglinton, 365. \n\nearl of Galway, 379. \n\nJohn de Gray, bishop of Norwich, 310, \n\nlord Arthur Grey of Wilton, 123. \n\nlord Leonard Grey, 59S. \n\nearl de Grey, 333. \n\nJohn, "lord of Ireland," 310. \n\n\n\n648 \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\nViceroys, Lords Lieutenant, Lords Deputy, Lords Justice, \n\netc. : \nGerald, earl of Kildare, 311, 614. \n\nHugh de Lacy, 310. \n\nMortimer, earl of March and Ulster, 426. \n\nlord Mountjoy, 427. \n\nearl of Northumberland, 366. \n\nPierce Butler, eighth earl of Onnond and Ossorv, \n\n539- \n\nJames, marquis of Onnond, 312, 427, 544. \n\nJames, duke of Onnond, 379. \n\nsir John Perrott, 520. \n\nsir Edward Poynings, 311. \n\nearl of Rochester, 379. \n\nduke of Rutland, 365. \n\nlord St. Germains, 338. \n\nsir Henry Sidney, 123, 1S3, 363, 5S2. \n\nearl of Sussex, 148. \n\nlord Townshend, 365. \n\nduke of Westmoreland, 365. \n\nlord Whitworth, 355. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 sir William de Windsor, 543. \n\nlord Wodehouse, 339. \n\nearl of Worcester, 493, \n\nduke of York [Hemy r//I.), 311. \n\nViews a Foot, by Bayard Taylor, 136. \n\nVillaneuva, Dr. J. L. , Spanish poem on Devil\'s glen, 97. \nVillarstown, 523. \n\nVinager Hill, 498 ; battle at, 507. \nVoluntii, 591. \n\n\n\nWakefield, Mr., on Killamey, 23, 42, 50. \n\nWakeman, F. W., intro., ix., Aichaotogia Hibernica of, 7 ; \n\non Glendalough, 87 ; on Devenish, 48 1 ; passim, \n\n12S, 254, 259, 265, 500, etc. \nWalker, J. A., intra., ix., on Glendalough, 95 ; passim, \n\n174, etc. \n\nRev. George, governor of Derry, monument to, 577 ; \n\nkilled at the Boyne, 577. \nWall, 532. \nWallace, Wm. Ross, 167. \n\nWm. Vincent, 534. \n\nWalsh, 534 ; adopt Irish surname and title, 538 ; castles of, \n\n539- \nEdward, visits John Mitchel on Spike Island, 411. \n\nThomas Fitzanthony, founded Thomastown, 549. \n\nof the Mountain, 538; monument to Kilkenny, 542. \n\nHistory of Dublin, 316. \n\nintelligent blacksmith, 265. \n\nWalshestown castle, 599. \n\nWalter, John, mayor of Cork, beheaded at Tyburn for rec- \nognizing Warbeck, 426. \nWandesford, 538. \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 estate. 54S. \n\nWarbeck, Perkin, 534 ; visits Cork, 426. \nWarburton, bishop, tomb of, 415. \n\nHistory of Dublin, 316. \n\nWarden of Galway, tragic romance of, 180, 183. \nWare, 299, 594. \n\n\n\nWaringsford, 590. \n\nWarrens-point, 590, 600. \n\nWarwick, Rev. Archibald, executed, 597. \n\nWaterfalls, notable : \n\nAdrigool, 467. \n\nBallyshannon, 516. \n\nin Black Valley, 23. \n\non Antrim coast. 132. \n\nPoul-a-Phuca, 108. \n\nPowerscourt, 72 \n\nat Killamey, 7, 30, etc. \n\nWaterford, county, 521 ; county of Xhe^Dccii, surface of, \n522 ; mountains and valleys, 522 ; the Suir and \nthe Blackwater, 522. \n\ncity, its ancient names, 532 ; notice of, 534 ; opposes \n\nSimnel and Warbeck, 534 ; taken by Cromwell, 534. \n\nWaterfoot, 577. \n\nWaterside. 577. \n\nWattlebridge, 4S1. \n\nWebber, Mr. E., built Mardyke, Cork, 42S. \n\nWeld, Isaac, on Muckross abbey, 14, 15 ; on upper Lake, \nKillarney, 32 ; description of stag-hunt at Killar- \nney, 26 ; on echoes at Eagle\'s Nest, 27 ; Statistical \nSurvey of Roscommon, 4TJ ; on Kilmallock, 563 ; \npassim, 466, etc. \n\nWellesley Bridge, Limerick, 558. \n\nWellesleys(Wes!eys), 269, 270. \n\nWellington, born at Dangan Castle, boyhood at Trim, 269 ; \nwhere born ? 375. \n\nmonument. Trim, 251. \n\ntestimonial Phoenix Park, 379 ; has reliefs on by \n\nKirke, Farrell and Hogan, 379. \nWesley, Arthur, 255. \n\nJohn, preached in Armagh, 475. \n\nWestmeath, county of. 2S5 ; separated from Meath, 2S5 ; \ncharacter of, 2S6 ; extent of lakes in, 2S7 ; suffer- \ning of, in the Williamite war, 288 ; monastic ruins \nin, 289. \n\nWestport, grand view from, 394. \n\nWestwood. Mr., on the Boo/t of Keils, 267. \n\nWexford, county of, 497 ; ancient inhabitants, Menapii, \n497 ; present name Danish, 497 ; formed into a \ncounty, 498 ; a battleground in \'gS, 498 ; position \nand boundaries, 49S ; southern part of, 500, 502. \n\ntown, notice of, 505 ; atrocities on bridge, 505 ; be- \n\ntrayed and put to the sword, 505 ; historical mem- \nories of, 505 ; military supply post in 1641, 505 ; \nCromwell\'s slaughter, 505 ; goaded into insurrec- \ntion in \'gS, 505. \n\nWhately, archbishop, monument to, 350. \n\nWhiddy island, 467. \n\nWhin-dykes, Carrig-mawr, 136, 155 ; Roveren valley, 155 ; \nauthorities on, 155 ; at the Causewav 162. \n\nWhite, 180. \n\nfamily settled in DufTerin. 592. \n\nWhitehaven, fired by Paul Jones, 124. \nWhitelaw, History of Dublin. 316. \nWhite rocks, Portrush. 171. \nWhite\'s castle and abbey, 570. \nWhyte, Samuel, 374. \n\n\n\nGENERAL INDEX. \n\n\n\n649 \n\n\n\nWtcklow, county of, 61 ; the garden of Ireland, 61 ; \n\nglens and vales in, 62. \nWilde, sir William, on sepulture of the Irish, ititro. ix. , \n\nin Arran, 1S7, iSS ; his LoughCorrib, 232, 3S5 ; on \n\nCarbeiy castle, 571 ; passim, 240, 243, 246, 259, \n\n260, 263, 272, 375, etc. \nWilliams, Richard Dalton, 336, 337, 403. \nWilliam III. , headquarters before the Boyne, 491,492; \n\npreparations for siege of Limerick, 555 ; defeated \n\nat, 556 ; signs charter of Cashel, 611 ; statue of, \n\n365 ; portrait of, 379. \nWillis, N. P., on Muckross abbey, 10 ; on Killarney, 24, \n\n47 ; on Clifden, 2ig ; on Irish female beauty, 363 ; \n\non Kilkenny, 544 ; passim, 120. 170, etc. \nWindele, J., 22, 41S ; his Historical and Descriptive Notices \n\nof Cork, etc., 434. \nWindy gap, 7. \nWindgap, 539. \n\nWindsor, sir William de, lord lieutenant, 543. \nWise\'shill, Cork, view from. 431. \nWodehouse, lord, on the Fenian conspiracy, 339. \nWolf of Derry hill, 574. \n\n\n\nWolfe, Rev. C, buried nSar Queenstown, 414 ; monument \n\nto, 35\xc2\xb0- \nWolff. {See Harland.) \nWood-coal in Antrim, 130. \nWoodlawn, 379. \n\nWoodward, bishop, tomb of, 415. \nWoodstock, 102. \n\ndemesne, 550. \n\nin Galway, 192. \n\nWool-trade and industry in 1793, S2 ; in Dublin, 342. \n\nWomen of Limerick, 556, 557. \n\nWright, G. N.,467. \n\nWurtemburg, duke of, attacks Cork, 42S. \n\nWyatt, Digby, 2S7. \n\n\n\nYoughal, 406 ; notice of, 436 ; connections of Raleigh with, \n437 ; collegiate church of, 43S, 439 ; potatoes first \ngrown at, 43S, 532. \n\nYoung, Arthur, on the Lee, 416. \n\n"Young Ireland." agitation in Dublin, 335, 5S4 ; Ahson, \nthe historian, on, 607. \n\n\n\nKD 11 9 \n\n\n\n\n\n\n^y \' "^> :s> \'\'^^ j> \xe2\x96\xa0\'\xe2\x96\xa0 ^ \n\n\n\nvvryv^:)--)) \xe2\x96\xa0>^^>-^ v>::))o-^ ^^^y^ ^^^ ^^< \n\n\n\n^ \xe2\x80\xa2> \'^<> ^ J) \' :>) y.)y:y)> > d \n\n\n\nyj> \n\ny:i> \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\ny :y)2> \n? y3 ) i> \n\n> >y3> \n.\xe2\x96\xa0> y;d> \n\n\n\ni)r>y:)>\'):)^ ,j>:>yyy7>\' y>:)L:>^> \n\n^iy^>i>3 O) -)\xc2\xbb:2\' >\'\'.)) ^^^^> \'^ \n/^3 :> i) .)"> "> :>^\' :^:3\xc2\xbb-o ^^ \nyx>^ D >y> :>>:^ )\xc2\xbboo \n,;)^:)y) ) yyOD "^.r^ " \' ^ \ny:) ^ J) \xe2\x96\xa0 : ^= \xe2\x96\xa0 = x>-- y:>-> ^^ ^ \' \' \' \n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x80\xa2 O ^>V . yrp_y;)\':>y^:yy-^^J \n\n\n\n:>y> :y^ ^ y \n\n\n\n\n\n\nj> yy o yy:> ^> , \xe2\x96\xa0,>y>y>) yx> > y> y -l^ :> - >y>:5)y y ;>, y> \n\n\n\n\xc2\xa3>y>) .^ ix> \' y ) \n:^ .\xc2\xbb y;:> ^ >> ^ \n\n\n\n> 3/ oyy^\'-:^ -^\xe2\x80\xa2x> \n\n\n\nJ >\xe2\x80\xa2> yj \ny>^ \n\n^^v;y \n\n\n\n> >> o.^ y>y> y>y^u>:)y yy .- y ) . y^ ^. ...^ ,^ - - ^ \n,^ y> :.\xe2\x96\xa0 > yi>.y>_;>^y> \xc2\xbb v.);:> > .>> ^ ,2> \xe2\x80\xa2"3) >>:> ^ .y y^^y i^^ \n\no2>^v_.y>:j>>>;>y)V5)^, o;) ys> :) :]> yK^:yy^ ^^ ^ <}=^,; .- \n\n:y^3fc>--x>y>:>y >^->-.> r ^ y> > y^.r :.^>-,y^ .>^ ^ :f < > \nx.oi2\xc2\xbb _y>:>) o >yoj^^-y3-i> >:^:>>y^:r\'.\' \xe2\x96\xa0- \n\n\n\n>\xe2\x96\xa0 y\xc2\xbbs>> y ^^y"\'y^ \n\ny :>\xc2\xbb>:> :^\'y \'s^\': \n> y>y^y> :> *^ \' v<: \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0 ^ \';>:y>y>> _y>z^\'yy-\'" \n-i^ -sy^iy y> y^\'::>3 y> y^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\n_^ ,3 3 >:>y> ,.,,31^ 5, \n\n\n\ny..>.y> X) yy> ,.> \xe2\x80\xa2 y>-> -0 ^yi>> >\' .:u^ \n\n\'y:> J y ^- ; \'y> ) \'tjp>\'y \xe2\x96\xa0^ ^ i>y> ""\'\'\' y^ \n\n> yy \xe2\x96\xa0:> ^j> j . r>"y \' > :>\':^\'25> \'^ .^^\' \xe2\x96\xa0 \n\n>>y.v)y).:> ^r\xc2\xbb-:>.y>y22> >-::^ \' \n-> y o :> > ^.> > >:^^^ji y>y>3> ^ -^ \n\n\n\n\n\n\n> \'\xe2\x80\xa2*.-> \'y S"\'^ \n\n\n\n_^ J) i\\ j> \n\n\n\n3ys>-> 3y^; \n\n<<" y>3 \n\n\n\n> .y 3o > \n\n) o y>, ,^ ) \n-^ 3 y >, \n\n\n\n.> yryy:>yy>,^ m:> y-^ ; ;^- .^r ^ \n> ->y:^>^ JM>:> \'S^ ,<f?i^ ^ \n\ny>:^ y\xc2\xbby>^i y\xc2\xbb yyiy > > -^ .y* ^ l^^:^ - \n>.y .>x\' o y;^y^i> -^\'i?-^^5i \n\n-^\xe2\x80\xa2^ , y/\' o y> ::>>:>.:) > y . .> -^ ^^ ^^5 y^ \n\n\n\n>y j>^ :>\xc2\xbb\'>y\xc2\xbb . .yyt^ \nj> y> y \xc2\xbbo ..y;\xc2\xbb> \n\n2>:> \'-i>\' \xe2\x96\xa0 3^ i^ .> y>_>3 :: \n\n-> \' .j>yy) -o y_:\xc2\xbby> > \n\' .^-^ ,y>;i o y> y\xc2\xbb:> ;) \n\n\n\n\n\n\n:or>3^o 0:3-3, \n\n\n\n\xc2\xbb>A^.3X)003 ;>>o>5y3 \'a>^ \n\np 3\' 3 3 >0 :)33 1> 3t^>:D3 1^ . \n\nr3;:^ ^T^^z^^^M^:^^^^)^ 5^ \n\n33::^ . o:) ^^^33>^:>:) oo":) 1^ > \n\n3^r:3 33 )3B3>33^J :03) D> >, \n\xc2\xbb- .:^ 33 :) 3:1:0^ " 3> > o3~) ^^ O \xe2\x96\xa0 . , \n\n\n\n^ > 3lP3 \n\n,-3;>D>3 \n\n^ >33^^ \n3. .>;33v \n> 3\'m\'-\' \xe2\x80\xa2 \n\n\n\nJ^:D3> > \n-^*.-D3>> \n^^*))3 33 \n3)>>j;333> \n\n\n\nX> ^^\'^\xe2\x96\xa0;^ .>J)>0> \n\n\n\n;3D--\\) \xe2\x96\xa033 \n3j^\'.^.\'33 \n\n:^\'-)^)^ >:/3l>) \n\n\n\n330 \n\n\n\n^\xe2\x96\xa0"^3^^)-3V\'C: \n\n::) j5)>)u 3-31 \nO 3i^,^)^^.3>\'> \n:5 :3:^y)-: ^\'^3)^^^\' \n\n\n\n^^") -\xe2\x80\xa2\' 3\' > y \n\n\n\n3 30 5; \n\n\n\n\xc2\xbb 3 \':> ">30 ) -^ 3.) > 3 3: :> D O\' \n.Oi) >:\xc2\xbb>^ .\' :>; ^ \') \xe2\x96\xa0 oo^\xc2\xbb. \n\n3 \'v.O )!);:) 0> 3 3 3 3^:) \n30 333^.^0^^^ 3 3 .:3 ^333 \n330333^3:^^^0 )\xe2\x96\xa0 353 \n\n\xe2\x96\xba o ij j3)^^3> > \' 3 :> ^ :3 -003 \n>. 3303\'3 3 \xe2\x96\xa0\xe2\x96\xa0 3 \') ^ -30 3 \n\n0->J :> v\xc2\xbb5> >-, y;^ ,,.,0 ^33)3 \n\n3 >;?>3 . >.. 0> I> > \'"^ \' y 3^D)0 \n\xe2\x96\xba3>33>]^ ):\' >0)^ ^.o>^33 \n\n\xe2\x96\xba >3)^ xO^ 3 > j)":\xc2\xbb --Lr>0>0 \n\n\xe2\x96\xba 0^3 30 O\'.^ 00^\' ^0)3): \n\xe2\x96\xba\xe2\x80\xa2003 }33 ; 03>^ )\'3>33> \n\n->^2>yyyjj yy>j :\'3D03): \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0~)/0i> \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0^^3--0>^.0> \n\n3^>\' p:3 \n\n,;o.j^ j33 \nI3033 \n\n\n\n30)\'^ ^.3>>0)O:.\'j033^33 \n)":\xc2\xbb --L) ":>:\'!)>> -^ :::!>__>\' \xe2\x96\xa0X)^^ \n\n30^^\' yO)3)3^:\xc2\xa3^ ::).) 33 \n33> ^ ^0>33> 3 \'01> O) -33 \nyyj :\'3D03)_3 3^ o -.33> \nO":^- \':)yy^y-y^\':^:yj >jyy^ \n\n\n\nD)33 33. 33 3"03 3> 3 \n\n:3>J3 \xe2\x96\xa03~]) ^3) ^yyii^y \n\'3)3 3 33 /"~)3> 33)3 33 \n\n>_3):)>3 .33 >-3:333:33r \n33^ -^jyy : 3 ;:\xc2\xbb 33 m> ^^ \n\n\'I)>3 jOD 33^ 3333303 : \n3J>) -\'.:D^ 3 Z\xc2\xbb0 3)>3>3 ^ \n\'^ 00 ^ \xe2\x96\xa0 .^ 30 , 0:^ . 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