*..•» \ assXSi!5J*- l L_ Book_^LLM H _7.oy5^ 35th Congress, ) SENATE. 1st Session. ) REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR, COMMUNICATING The report of John Claiborne, esq. , special agent appointed to collect statistics on the consumption of cotton in Europe. March 22, 1858.— Read and ordered to lie on the table Mbbch 23, 1858.— Motion to print referred to the Committee on Printing. March 30, 1858.— Report in favor of printing 5,000 copi'es in addition to the usual number, submitted, considered, and agreed to. Department of the Interior, March 19, 1858. Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith the report of John Claiborne, esq., the special agent appointed by the Commissioner of Patents to collect and report information upon the consumption of cotton in Europe. Annexed to that portion of the report which relates to Bremen will be found a memoir upon the consumption of cotton in the Zoll Verein, for which the department is indebted to the courtesy of Doctor Schleiden, minister resident from the Free and Hanseatic Republic of Bremen. With great re3pect, your obedient servant, J. THOMPSON, Secretary of the Interior. Hon. John C. Breckenridge, President of the Senate. United States Patent Office, March 19, 1858. Sir : Agreeably to the clause in the act of Congress of March 3, 1857, for the collection of agricultural statistics, investigations for promoting agriculture and rural economy, and the procurement and distribution of cuttings and seeds, and to enable the Commissioner of 2 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. Patents to collect and report information in relation to the consump- tion of cotton in the several countries of the world, I have the honor herewith to transmit the report of John Claiborne, the agent ap- pointed to collect the cotton statistics of Europe under the clause in said act. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, J. HOLT, Commissioner. Hon. Jacob Thompson, Secretary of the Interior. Department of the Interior, May 11, 1857. Sir: A recent appropriation having been made by Congress "to enable the Commissioner of Patents to collect and report information in relation to the consumption of cotton in the several countries of the world," you have been selected to aid in carrying out the objects of that appropriation. f To render the desired information more reliable and complete, it has been judged expedient that you should visit different portions of Europe ; and, a* it is important that the result of your investigations should be laid before Congress at an early day of its next session, it will be necessary that you should commence your labors with the least possible delay. Time will not permit you to visit all the countries in the world where cotton is consumed, nor would such a course be expedient if it- were practicable. You will probably be able to extend your personal observations to the most important points in England, France, Rus- sia, Switzerland, Austria, Prussia, and perhaps some of the other countries of Europe. You will here find sources of information ex- tending to all quarters of the globe, and which will be sufficient to satisfy the present expectations of Congress. Though the consumption of cotton abroad is the great subject of in- quiry, your attention should not be limited too narrowly to that one point. It is evidently the intention of Congress to ascertain all facts which have a bearing, either directly or indirectly, upon that matter. The ultimate design is to benefit the cotton producing and cotton manufacturing interest of the United States. Whatever will tend to this end is a subject of practical importance, and is recommended to your earnest and careful attention. The traffic in this commodity, its manufacture, and even its produc- tion in foreign countries, have a bearing upon its consumption, either present or prospective, and all facts relating to any of these matters will be within the proper scope of your inquiries. Perhaps the clearest and most intelligible course of investigation will be suggested by an attempt to trace a bale of cotton from the time it leaves the plantation of the producer till it reaches the hands of the ultimate consumer. Every mile by which this route can be shortened, every obstacle which can be removed or avoided, every cent of expense CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 3 which can be saved, are advantages the benefits of which will be shared between the two individuals who stand at the extremes of this line of transit, and will cause not only an augmentation in the price of the raw material, but will create a larger consumption, and thus call for a larger supply of the commodity. This, and subjects naturally connected therewith, will suggest all material inquiries which will be necessary in order to satisfy the ob- jects of the appropriation. In carrying out the general design thus intimated your own judg- ment and sagacity will be chiefly relied upon. It is impossible to mark out with precision, beforehand, all the de- tails of an investigation where the ascertainment of one fact will often suggest others and render them material, where unexpected items of information will frequently present themselves, and where those which were anticipated will often be found to be beyond reach. It is thought proper, however, to specify, with greater particularity, some points and suggestions which have been already referred to in a more general manner. The following points are, therefore, presented, as proper guides for your attention and inquiry, and as embracing chiefly, if not entirely, the grounds you are expected to examine. 1. Ascertain the amount of cotton consumed in the manufactories of each city, district, or country, either in Europe, or any other portion of the earth where cotton is manufactured ; the amount of capital in- vested in such manufacturing establishments ; the number of looms and spindles; the number of hands employed, and the average rate of wages paid to the employes. Aggregate results for each country or district are desirable, as far as practicable. 2. The immediate sources from whence these establishments actually procure their raw material ; the nearest seaport where they might be furnished direct from the United States, and the diminution of cost which might be effected by any change in the course of trade. 3. If direct trade were established, what are the commodities we should receive in exchange. Would this be sufficient in amount to furnish adequate return freights for the vessels employed in the trans- portation of cotton. 4. What proportion of the supplies furnished to these establish- ments is in the shape of yarn, and what in the shape of raw cotton. Ascertain the price of each, in order to show what profit is made by the manufacturer of the yarn. 5. What is the quality, grade, or number of the yarn principally used, and is it such as could be produced by the unskilled labor on plantations, or in the southern cities. 6 To what countries do the manufacturers of Europe generally send their yarns and goods, and what diminution of expense would result from manufacturing or spinning in our own country, and shipping direct to those countries. 7. What duties are levied on cotton or yarn respectively ; their effect en the consumption of each; the feasibility of procuring their remission or modification, and the probable effect on consumption of such remission. 4 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 8. What are the agencies in each country whieh are now tending either to advance or check the consumption of cotton. 9. What new modes of applying cotton to the use of man are now in use in Europe; to what extent is it used for mixing with wool in making cloths, cordage, or for any other purpose. 10. What proportion of the cotton goods consumed in each country is imported, and what supplied at home. 11. Examine the subject in its financial aspect; inquire how, in the actual operations of commerce, a merchant could have his orders for cotton executed, and pay therefor at the ports of exportation. Ex- amine also into the nature and course of exchange operations that would thus arise, and the practicability of avoiding the necessity of English or French banking credits. 12. Direct some attention to the subject of the production of cotton in foreign countries, with a view of ascertaining whether our planters may apprehend any formidable competition from auy such source; what are the obstacles in the way of such foreign production, and are they such as are likely to removed hereafter. It is not intended in the suggestion of the foregoing points to limit you rigidly by them. They are intended to aid, and not restrain in- vestigation. Any other matters which may suggest themselves to your mind, calculated to promote the general object in view, should be made the subjects of inquiry. Nor is it supposed that upon each and all of the heads above enumerated full and explicit information can be obtained. Where this is found impracticable, or very incon- venient, time should not be wasted in fruitless searches. You will keep this department constantly informed of your move- ments, and by what channel of communication you are to be addressed, in case further directions or suggestions be thought expedient. J. THOMPSON, Secretary of Interior. John Clairborne, Esq. CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. REPORT. To the Hon. Joseph Eolt, Commissioner of Patents : Sir : Congress having, at its last session, made an appropriation for the collection, under the direction of your bureau, of statistical information as to the consumption of cotton in the various countries ot the world, the undersigned received from the honorable the Secre- tary of the Interior the appointment as agent to carry out the inten- tion of the legislative department. It was soon recognized that the amount of the appropriation was wholly inadequate to the investigation of the subject, in the manner and to the extent warranted by its importance, in either the agricul- tural or commercial point of view ; and, under these circumstances, I was directed to proceed, without unnecessary delay, to France and other continental countries of Europe, and, with all practical despatch, col- lect as much information as it might be in my power to do previous to the re-assembling of Congress. On my arrival at Paris, about the beginning of June last, I called upon the Hon. John Y. Mason, the minister of the United States to the French empire, and made known the object of my visit. He re- ceived me most cordially, and, throughout my stay in Europe, mani- fested the warmest desire to forward the object of the investigation by procuring for me facilities, not only in France, but elsewhere. Mr. Alexander Vattemare, agent of the patent office at Paris, also cheer- fully aided me, and was the means of procuring for me much valuable information, not only at the capital, but in the manufacturing districts of Mulhouse. Below will be found the results of the investigation, so far as it has been carried on, under the head of the countries visited. On no point is the information obtained so full and detailed as it might have been made under more favorable circumstances, or as it should be for the proper understanding of the subject, while, on some points of the in- structions, it has been wholly impracticable, from want of time, to procure any reliable information. This cause prevented an examination into the amount of consump- tion and the condition of cotton manufacture in Holland, Bavaria, Wurtemburg, and Spain, which last country has, during the past few years, required a largely increased supply of our cotton for the spinning mills of Catalonia. FRANCE. France ranks next after Great Britain in the quantity and value of the cotton wool consumed, while the variety of articles into which it is fabricated is much greater. In the taste and beauty of her tissues she justly claims the first place among modern nations. Her mills b CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE, send forth every description of cotton goods — from the common calicoes of Rouen to the richly figured muslins of Mulhouse, the gossamer tulles of Saint Quentin, and the exquisite tarlatanes of Tarare. Scarcely sixty years have passed away since the first attempts at cotton spinning were made at Paris, at a period, too, when the first French revolution was ahout to shake the country to its centre, to overthrow the old political system, to convulse society, and to affect for a time, at least, most injuriously all the material interests con- nected with it. The progress of this new industry was, therefore, but slow for a considerable number of years after it was first planted. From Paris cotton spinning spread rather gradually towards the departments of the north and east. According to Moreau de Jonnes, (Statistics of the Industry of France; Paris, 1856,) the first mule jenny used in France was imported from England into Ghent, (re- cently acquired by the French arms,) by the Brothers Bauwen, and presented to the first consul. The first cotton spinning in the department of the east, of which Mulhouse is now the central point, and which embraces portions of ancient Lorraine and Alsace, was in the establishment of Wesserling, in the year 1803, and specimens of yarn spun, either by hand or by the mule jenny, were exhibited at the Exposition of 1806 ; from which date it was recognized as " one of the established ' industries ' of the country, and the fabrication of cotton rapidly became one of the lead- ing interests, rivalling in its importance and value, in the commercial movements, that of the cereals." In 1816, the kilogramme of raw cotton was, as stated by Moreau de Jonnes, worth six francs, or about $1 12; and in 1851 it had dimin- ished to 1 franc and 50 centimes, or about 28 cents, " and four times the quantity of cotton fabrics can be had for the same sum of money, while the proportion of 5 kilogrammes, or 11 pounds of cotton to every five inhabitants, had increased to 2 kilogrammes, or 4-f pounds to each inhabitant; or, in its manufactured state, was sufficient to have furnished every inhabitant of the country with 18 metres, or about 20 yards of ordinary calico." With respect to its cotton manufactures, France may be considered as divided into three great groups or districts, although there are many spinneries, weaving, bleaching or other establishments, not within the limits of either. These groups or "circles," as they are generally called by the French manufacturers, or merchants, are : Normandy, of which Rouen is the centre ; the east, with Mulhouse ; and the northeast, with its cities of Saint Quentin, Roubaix and Lille. Each of these circles has its reputation for the production of particu- lar descriptions of fabrics or tissues ; thus Rouen is famed for the coarser styles and low prices, and is called the workshop of the poor ; Mulhouse is famed for its Indiennes and its printed muslins, unrivalled, it is said, for beauty and richness of texture and coloring, and the taste displayed in their designs, by those of any other fabrication ; Saint Quentin sends out the finest descriptions of tulles, organdies, &c. ; while Lille and Valenciennes are the seats of the lace manufac- tories. Tarare, near Lyons, has of late years sent into the Parisian markets CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 7 the most beautiful and costly tarlatanes and embroideries, in the latter respect rivalling the renowned fabrics of St. Gall and Appenzell, in Switzerland ; and Calais is following fast in the footsteps of Notting- ham, in the production of bobbinets, and that description of laces for which the latter city has so long enjoyed a high degree of celebrity. It was not in my power to obtain precise details of the establish- ment and progress of cotton manufacture in any of the above named circles save that of the east ; and these are owing to the courtesy of Mr. Emile Dolfus, president of the Industrial Society of Mulhouse, who furnished me with a copy of his very valuable and interesting notes, read before that body in the months of November and Decem- ber, 185ft, and which show, on every page, that they are the result of the most careful and conscientious study and examination into the subject. After cotton spinning was introduced in 1803, it remained nearly stationary until 1809-'10, when it began to increase in importance, and water power was first substituted for hand labor ; the use of steam not being known until 1812, in the mill of Messrs. Dolfus, Meig & Co. The next five years brought with them wars, invasions, and political changes and excitements, which affected injuriously all kinds of in- dustry Between 1818 and 1825, prosperity had returned, and new and numerous establishments had been erected and put in operation ; commercial derangements in 1828, and the revolution in 1830, had in turn, their disastrous influence, which was again felt by the money crisis of 1837, and 1842-'43. Since 1851, the march has been rapid, and the business has met with its fair share of success and profit until the crisis of the present year, 1857, came on, under which it will have to share the suffering undergone by all manufacturing interests throughout Europe and America ; a suffering which will, in all pro- bability, be but temporary, to be succeeded by a long course of pros- perity for them all. Cotton weaving began in this circle, at Mulhouse, in 1746, the first articles manufactured being Indiennes, the thread used being spun by hand, those spun by machinery not coming into use until more than half a century afterwards, in the year 1800 ; and the flying shuttle being first employed in 1805. Shortly after this latter period the importation of cotton tissues into France was prohibited ; a policy which has been maintained to the present clay, amid all changes of government, and to even a modification of which the mill owners, with the rarest exceptions, manifest a stubborn spirit of opposition. Weaving made as much progress, undergoing the same occasional and temporary reverses, as spinning and other branches of cotton manufacture ; it extended gradually from the department of Haut Rhin into the other five which composed the circle, the mill owners generally adopting with readiness all new inventions in that branch, and the old system of hand looms disappeared before power looms, worked by water or steam, until in 1856, of the total number of looms in the district, forty-two thousand three hundred and twenty-nine, (42,329) there were"33,472 power, and only 10,859 hand. Cotton printing was established in Alsace at Mulhouse at the same 8 CO SUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. time as weaving, and shortly attained to that reputation for the quality of its products which it has ever since enjoyed. In connexion with many of the printing establishments are those for bleaching and dressing goods. The extensive establishment of Dolfus, Meig & Co., at Mulhouse, combines all t" e processes which the raw material undergoes from the time it reaches the mill doors until it is despatched to market ; and within its walls one may witness spinning, weaving, plain and figured, bleaching, (by a process con- sidered by many superior to any elsewhere to be found,) dyeing and printing, (both by block and cylinders,) dressing and packing lor market. Its chief is Mr. Jean Dolfus, who not only received your agent with much politeness, but manifested great interest in the sub- jects of his inquiry, and a disposition to afford him all possible in- formation in its various branches. According to Mr. Emile Dolfus, in the publication above alluded to, there are now in the circle of the east, which comprises the depart- ments of Haut Rhin, Bas Rhin, La Haute Sadne, Doubs, Les Vosges, and La Meurthe, 109 spinneries, worked, 74 by steam and 97 by water, with an aggregate horse power of 8,199. These establishments have a total of 1,498,440 spindles for ordinary yarns, and 16,886 for twist, which makes the proportion of 183 to each unit of horse power; or if, as Mr. Dolfus remarks, it is considered that many of the steam engines are only auxiliary to water, which is subject to changes in its force and volume, the proportion will be really somewhat less. The general proportion of spindles for ordinary numbers of yarns, 27-29 for warp, and 36-38 for woof, is from" 180 to 200 for each unit of horse power. The spindles were used as follows : For waste and numbers under 20 75,000 Ordinary numbers 24 to 40, warp or woof. 1,000,000 Numbers between 40 and 70 75,000 Fine numbers from 70 to 200 350,000 The produclions of yarns was 44,000,000 pounds, equal in value to $13,020,000, or 37 T V cents the pound. The number of workmen employed by these establishments was 29,995 ; the wages paid, as I was informed by a mill owner, an average of three francs for men ; for women two francs ; and for boys and girls from twenty centimes to one franc, per day. Mr. Dolfus estimates the annual cost of spinning, per spindle, at an average of 35 francs, or $6 51. He also gives a table of the prices of raw cotton at Mulhouse since the year 1811, when it was 14 francs 85 centimes the kilo, or about $1 33 cents the pound, to 1856, when it had fallen to the average of 2.02 francs the kilo, or 12 cents the pound, for the classifications used in spinning ordinary yarns. In 1811, the average price of the yarns at Mulhouse (27-29 warp and 36-38 woof) was 25 francs 61 centimes the kilo, or about $2 33 the pound, from which it had fallen, in 1856, to three francs the kilo, or 23 cents the pound. The number of weaving mills in the circle in 1856 is placed at 136, employing 37,897 hands, of whom 25,104 are engaged on power, and CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. JJ the remainder on hand looms. The production of cloths had increased, from two million pieces of 130 million of metres, or 140,833,333 yards, to two and a half million pieces, of a total of 250 million metres, or 270,833,333 yards. It had almost doubled during the last decade, and its value was set down at 100 million of francs or 18,600,000 dollars ; the average price for ordinary calicoes in the Mulhouse market, which in 1835 was 77^ centimes, or near 14 cents the metre, had fallen to 39 centimes, or near eight cents. There were 25 printing mills, employing 10,400 hands, printing 51,900,000 metres of stuffs (or 56,225,000 yards) of the value of 51,500,000 francs, or $9,579,000. Mr. Dolfus thus sums up the condition of the cotton manufacture in the circle in 1856, as regards capital invested and the ordinary ex- penses of working, &c, francs being reduced into American dollars. The entire number of hands employed being 78,812, and the motive power that of 14,323 horses : Spinning, at a mean average of $6 51 per spindle, for 1,513,306 spindles, say $9,750,746 Weaving, by mechanism, at $139 50 the loom, of which there were 33,472 4,670,340 Weaving, by hand, at $22 32 each, for 10,875 looms, buildings and machinery included 231,800 Printing 2,418,000 Bleaching and dressing 372,000 Total 17,442,886 These establishments had cost at least 29,760,000 dollars ; the wages yearly paid to their hands amounted to 6,596,000 dollars ; and the annual value of all their different productions, amounted to fortv-one millions, four hundred and seventy-eight thousand dollars, ($41,478,000.) By far the greater portion of cotton- wool consumed in the circle of Mulhouse is of American growth, and " middling" to "middling fair" qualities; there is some Sea Island and Egyptian also used; but Brazilian, East Indian or other growths are but little known. Nearly the whole of the raw material goes via Havre, and thence by railway. Fuel is scarce and dear, the coal which is used being brought from Burgundy, along the canal which connects the Rhone and the Rhine, or from Coblenz, on the latter stream. Under the most favorable circumstances it is said to cost three times as much as in England. Labor is, however, abundant ; and while they admit that they can never rival England in ordinary and cheap cotton fabrics, and must depend upon the superior quality, taste and elegance of their fabrics, for a profitable market, the Mulhouse mill-owners are, as a general thing, well pleased with their business and the profits which it affords. It is to be regretted that there has not as yet appeared in the circle of Rouen any one who, like Mr. Dolfus, at Mulhouse, is the historian 10 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. and statistician of its great manufacturing interests, as it is certainly well worthy, in extent and importance of the effort. In his very interesting and instructive volume, L' Industrie con- temporaine, ses caracteres et ses progres chez les differents peuples du monde, Paris, 1856 — (Contemporaneous Industry, its characteristics and progress among the different people of the world) — M. Audi- ganne says of the Normand Group, that if the number of spindles and the amount of raw material which they require, be considered, it is the first in France ; as out of the seventy to seventy-two millions of kilogrammes which France consumes, they absorb about thirty millions ; and of the five millions of spindles, which he estimates as the actual total in the country, it has between one and a half and two millions, though as regards the value of its products it does not pre- serve this relative position. While its fabrics are almost exclusively of the heavier and coarse qualities, at low prices, Rouen also manu- factures for Algeria a species of very superior bleached cloth, which is in great respect for burnouses, &c, among the Arab population. It has also given the trade name of Rouennaises to those fabrics of its mills which are composed of yarn dyed before it is woven, the hues of which are often mingled in odd and striking contrast. The circle of Rouen is composed of the departments of La Seine Inferieure, L' Eure, and Orne. To the vice president and secretary of the chamber of commerce of the city I am under great obligations for their kindness, and the facilities for obtaining information which they afforded me. The consumption for the year 1857, of this circle, was estimated at 140,000 bales, of 220 kilogrammes each, or 67,000,000 pounds, of which 15,000 bales, of not over 300 pounds, or the total weight of four and a half million pounds of Surats, &c, was included. Very little Algerian or Egyptian is consumed, and that of other growths does not seem to be known, or at least asked for, in the market. Rouen is one of the two points on the continent, at which there was to my mind any evidence of an increase in the consumption of East Indian cotton, and its use for spinning unmixed with the longer stapled and finer qualities of the United States, or other crops. The other point was at Ghent ; and at both the reason assigned was, the very high price of American cotton, which compelled the spinners to look for other supplies. The qualities of American (United States) cottons principally in demand at Rouen are "middlings" and "good middlings;" the waste upon which, for " middling," is 4 to 5 per cent. ; on " ordi- nary," 6 to 7 ; and in "low ordinary," from 7 to 11 per cent. Of the East Indian cottons, from Bombay, the waste is generally 20 per cent, greater than that of the corresponding classifications of Ameri- can ; the Madras cottons are, however, of better quality than those from Bombay. In this circle the yarns spun range in numbers between 4 and 36, the bulk of them being, according to a leading spinner, No. 26 ; the average price for that quality is 3 francs 60 centimes the kilo, or about 22 cents the pound. It is claimed for the French yarn that it is ten per cent, superior to that CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 11 spun in England. The chief export of yarn from Rouen is of No. 20, for warps, which goes to Germany. The wages paid average 3 francs per day for men, and 1^ francs for women and girls. The pro- portion of the hands employed is two females to one male, and the length of the working day, as at Mulhouse, is 12 hours. The following tables are derived from a publication of the Rouen Chamber of Commerce, entitled iC Statistics of the Maratime Com- merce, and the Exportations of Tissues of Cotton and of Wool from the port of Rouen, during the year 1855. Rouen : 1856." Comparative table of the Tissues of Cotton despatched from the custom at liouen, either by sea or land, during the years 1853, 1854, and 1855. Kilogrammes reduced to pounds. Description of tissues. Quantities exported to the colonies in — 1853. 1854. 1855. Pounds. ... 855,496 5 Powids. 718.947 704,846 12,648 864,773 Pounds. 943, 182 Handkerchiefs . 788,452 5,584 ... 5.912,275 776,987 86.277 7,288,877 Total . . . '■ 7.561.807 7 301,214 9,995,323 In the above are not included the cotton yarns exported, which amounted, in 1853, to 82, 244 pounds ; in 1854, to 69, 980 pounds ; in 1S55, to 69, 705 pounds. Quantities exported to foreign countries. Description of tissues. 1 1S53. 1854. 1855. Eouenneries Pounds. 226,666 Pounds. 259,510 234.087 12,597 11,589 Pounds. Indiennes ... 1 334.290 283 050 Handkerchiefs ! 16,969 58 014 Calicoes i 23,235 74 098 Total : 601,160 517,783 772,739 Totals for colonies and foreign countries. Description of tissues. 1853. 1854. 1855. Eouenneries Pounds. 1,782,142 1,122,741 22,552 5,937,509 Pounds. 978,457 939,013 22,245 5,S76,363 Pounds. 1, 300, 759 Indiennes ... 1, 060, 037 144,291 7.h'.2,978 Total 8,864,944 7,816,078 . , 868,065 12 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. Of these exportations, there came to the United States, in the year 1853, 55,748 pounds ; in 1854, 47,828 pounds; and in 1855, 69,179 pounds ; the values not being given. The mills in Brittany, like those of Normandy, supply only the lower numbers of yarns and cheap stuffs ; those of French Flan- ders, on the contrary, turn out the finest and most costly description of tulles, blondes, and gauzes, and it is there that is consumed almost the entire importation of our sea-island cottons. It has not been long since the artisans of Tarare began to send into market those exqui- sitely fine and beautiful fabrics of cotton which have won the admira- tion of all who behold them. In cotton embroideries Tarare produces articles " quite equal to the best Swiss in fineness, suppleness, and finish ; and superior to them in the chasteness and beauty of their patterns." The perfection of the skill and taste they display in the finer and and more costly styles of cotton stuffs may be appreciated from the fact, as stated by M. Audiganne, that when the society of churchwardens of Nancy desired to present an embroidered robe to the Empress Eugenie, they procured it to be made at Tarare, the threads being number 480, and the amount of raw cotton used for it being half a kilogramme, or one and one-tenth pounds. If, says M. Audiganne, the thread used for this robe, and coming from so small an amount of material, had been extended in a line, it would have reached 480 kilomatres, or 120 leagues. This distance is nearly equal to 291 English miles. But by far the greater portion of the yarn spun and woven in France is of the numbers running from 12 to 80, the use of any above the latter being considered as exceptional ; as a matter of economy in their operations, the mill owners regard the spinning of 50 kilo- grammes of cotton into the finer numbers, as requiring as much labor as to turn from 700 to 800 kilogrammes into the lower ones. Up to the year 1834, the importation of yarns was prohibited ; and since that date the relaxation of the policy only operates in favor of those above No. 143, the duty upon which is regulated by weight. Of late years the production of yarns in France has not only suf- ficed for home consumption, but has also been exported in considerable quantities to other countries. M. Moreau de Jonnes, in his late very valuable work, u La Sta- tisque de U Industrie de la France," (Statistics of French Industry,) has a chapter on cotton which abounds in interesting facts and specu- lations. After giving a rapid sketch of the rise and progress of the manufacture in France, the author proceeds to show its influence upon the industrial and commercial wealth of the country, as it at present exists. According to this high authority, the value of the production of cotton tissues, and its relation to the population, was, in the year 1812, 176,000,000 of francs, or $32,736,000, being 6 francs, or $1 12, to each inhabitant ; while in 1850 it was 334,000,000 of francs, or $62,124,000, being 10 francs to each inhabitant. By the census of 1851, the population of France was 35,783,170. Says M. de Jonnes, p. 76, " The 62,000,000 (kilogrammes) imported for the spinneries, being transformed into tissues and other fabrics, worth at least 334,000,000 of francs, the industry of our manufactures quintuples CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 13 the value of the raw material, and augments it four times ; or, in other words, gives it an increased value of 250,000,000 of francs." Estimating the total consumption by Great Britain, Continental Europe, and the United States, at the time he was writing, (probably 1855,) at the round sum of 502,000,000 kilogrammes, or 1,104,400,000 pounds, he says: "At 1 fr. 50 centimes (the kilogramme) here is a value of 753,000,000 (or $140,058,000.) If the raw material should be everywhere quintupled, as in France, the annual industrial pro- duction of cotton would be near 4,000,000." " Certainly, when Columbus remarked at the Lucayas a bush with mallow flowers, the seeds of which were enveloped in a silky down, he did not anticipate that there was a treasure far more precious than the gold mines of Cibao, and that it would have been better for him to have put the Indians to planting cotton, than to digging into the auriferous hills of Hayti, which were to become their tombs." M. de Jonnes gives tabular statements as to each branch of cotton manufacture in France, which are embodied herein as well worthy your attention. For convenience sake, the French weights and values have been reduced to our own standards. His estimate of the number of spindles is considerably below that of several other authorities — M. Audiganne placing the number at 5,000,000. COTTON SPINNING. Number of mills 566 Communes in which they are found 275 Their consumption of raw material, (lbs.) 138,226,000 Value of the same $17,519,756 Quantity of cotton spun, waste not included, (lbs.) 127,600,000 Total value of the yarn spun , $27,379,200 Number of hands employed 63,064 (of whom, 22,807 men, at 37 cents ; 23,531 women, at 19 cents ; and 16,726 children, at 10 cents per day.) Haw material per centum .65 Salaries, general expenses, and profits, do .35 Note. — The rate of wages given here is at least one-third below those which, I was informed by proprietors, were paid at Mulhouse and Rouen. They had probably risen meanwhile. 14 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. Summary of the value of the general production of cotton tissues. Cotton tissues. No. of estab- lishments. Value of raw ma- terial, (cotton yarn. ) Value of pro- ductions. 1,484 46 195 $18,385,082 1,004,400 0,942,450 $30,448,200 2.697,000 10,387,914 1.725 11 26,321,932 288,114 43,533,114 395,623 Total 1,736 20,610,046 43,928,737 Accessories to unmixed tissues 2S7 17 10,977,714 807,612 15,427,148 1,755,282 Total 304 11,785,326 17,182,430 2,040 566 38,395,372 61,111,167 2,606 Number of workmen and machines. Cotton tissues. Cotton , pure Cotton, open work -. Cotton, mixed Total Subordinate and accessary articles Total Add for spinneries - — Making altogether Hands. 145 474 17 377 25 716 188 567 23 299 211,866 63,064 274.930 Looms. 92,623 1,687 16,693 111,003 2,370 113,373 16,301 129,673 Note. — "The figures (says M. de Jonnes) were obtained by official inquiries at each establishment, being the only ones yet collected on this important subject. Two thousand and forty establishments (con- tinues the author) consume raw material valued at $38,395,372 ; their operations, by the aid of 212,000 workmen and 113,000 machines, increase this Value to $61,111,167, or by one-half; and it must not be forgotten that the raw material of the tissues, produced by this admirable and suprising industry, is cotton yarn, to work which costs twice as much as does cotton wool." If, to find the total value obtained by the labor of our 2,000 estab- lishments, raw cotton were taken as the basis of the calculation, the CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 15 increased value would befound much more considerable. The quantity of 138,226,000 pounds, destined for spinning mills, is worth only $17,519,756, from which are fabricated tissues worth $62,012,400 — an increase in value equal to 350 per cent. Cotton is used in France mixed with wool, flax, or silk, in greater or less proportions. It enters into the fabrication of velvets, silk cra- vats, or vestings, rich moire-antique stuffs, satinets, broadcloths, and linens ; and it would seem that the progress of art and the necessity for new materials are destined to add still further to its already mul- tifarious uses. Want of time for that object rendered it impracticable for me to examine particularly into this branch of cotton consumption, either in France or any other country which I visited. It is well worth an extended and careful examination. According to M. de Jonnes, 212 establishments, employing 26,000 hands, and with the latest and best descriptions of machinery, are engaged in the fabrication of articles of which cotton, mixed with silk, wool, or flax, is a component part. The mills are one-tenth the number of those devoted to weaving pure cotton, and the number of hands is one-ninth of those so engaged. The work of M. de Jonnes gives the following summaries of the different branches of cotton manufacture in France, after the raw ma- terial has been converted into yarn or threads. 1 ° . — TISSUES OF PURE COTTON. Number of establishments 1,484 Value of the spun cotton used in them.... $18, 384, 806 Value of the tissues fabricated $30,448,200 Total number of hands employed 145,474 Viz: Men ...69,410 Women 52,932 Children , 23,125 Men, wages, lfr. 50 centimes, or 28 cents, = $3,868,800 Women, 85 centimes, or 15 cents, = $2,247,922 Children, 50 centimes, or 9 cents, = 645,048 Looms, 92,623 ; other machines 2,820 Spindles 190,336 Value of articles fabricated $30,448,200 Value of cotton yarn and thread $18,384,896 — 60 per cent. Profits, wages, and general expenses $12,090,000 = 40 per cent. Viz: Wages $6,755,148 = 22 per cent. Profits and general expenses $5,327,412 = 18 per cent. 16 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE 2c?. Transparent and other tissues. No. of establishments. Val. raw materials. Val. products. No. of hands. Tulles 19 $930,000 8,556 $2,087,292 111,600 10,777 60 938,556 1,012 63,984 2,198.892 3,739 502,200 10,837 400 6,140 Total 46 1,003,552 2,704,821 17,377 3d. Accessories to the fabrication of tissues. $4,110,600 5,712,060 1,469,400 $5,601,390 8,616,054 2,306,400 3,859 10,081 3,888 Total 287 11,292,060 16,523,844 17,828 4:t h. Subordinate articles. Cords and twist 4 Fringes and suspenders 4 $2,790 74,400 51,336 163.680 $6,510 111 600 74.467 204,972 18 180 135 250 292,206 397,549 583 5th. Mixed cotton tissues. Cotton and wool velvets and carpetings 42 Cotton and wool network, blankets and furniture covers 16 Cotton, W"ol and flax 5 Cotton and silk 62 Cotton, silk, and goats' wool 25 Cotton, wool, and silk 45 Total 195 $3,496,800 1,302,000 156,498 669,300 163,202 1,171,800 6,959,600 $4,964,800 1,805,198 279,000 967, 200 316,200 1,957,258 10,289,656 Accessories to the same. Cotton and wool spinning and $799,800 11,346 $1,729,800 31,248 4,748 140 811,146 1,761,048 4,888 General total 212 7,770,746 11.050.704 30, 604 Looms 16, 693 Other machines 7,802 Spindles 71,802 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 17 The pure cotton tissues of French fabrication are : Calicoes, Indien- nes, percales, ginghams, madopolain, jaconet, organdie and figured muslins, printed muslins, handkerchiefs and shawls, tulles, bobinets, laces, bonnetine, (caps, undershirts, drawers, gloves, &c.,) and fringes and nankins. DUTIES. The French government levies discriminating duties on cotton wool, taking into consideration not only the place of growth, but the mode of transport. A reference to the accompanying table, marked B, will show the amount of the duties levied on each description of cotton wool. The table marked A, and which is official, shows the amount of cotton wool imported into France from all countries during the periods therein named. It will be seen that the amount of duties paid for the year 1856 was $3,712,286, (19,851,000 francs,) upon a total receipt of 183,488,200 pounds. As to the quantity of cotton of the growth of the United States imported in that year, it will be seen that it paid more than 90 per cent, of the entire revenue from that source. The Tableau General du Commerce ale la France for 1856 places the amount of duties received from cotton imported from the United States at 18,777,229 francs, and the proportion to the whole amount of duties levied on importations from that country, at 90.5 per cent. This document also places the total importation of American cotton wool for that year at 974,793 metrical quintals, (221 pounds,) equal to 215,469,033 pounds; of which, 786,994 me- trical quintals, or 173,926,744 pounds, were for consumption, and the balance of 41,543,259 pounds in transit. The following table, showing the quantity of cotton wool imported into France for the first nine months of the year 1857, with the amount of duty received therefrom, and a comparison with the quan- tities imported and the duties received for the same periods in the years 1855 and 1856, is made up from an official publication in the Moniteur Universel, of October 19, 1857, the French weights and values being converted into corresponding American weights and values : Importations. 1857. 1856. 1855. From the United States - Pounds. 159,125,083 21,509,448 Pounds. 175,613,672 Pounds. 154 4M 331 From other countries ]2, 238, 096 13,292,990 Total pounds - __. 180,634.521 187.851.768 167,752,521 Taken for consumption ■ 121,928,593 2.976,000 40,807,871 140,180,963 2,820,200 36,691,726 135,696,652 Duties received . 2,659,800 Stock on hand September 30 .. ... 22,322,768 Ex. Doc. 35- 18 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE, Of which, in 1857 — Pounds. At Marseilles 2,794,103 At Bordeaux 360,611 At Nantes 462,879 At Rouen .; 267,189 At Havre 36,174,385 At Dunkirk 181,662 At other ports 565,981 Total 40,807,871 The accompanying tables, marked, respectively, C, D, and E, all of which are from an official source, will exhibit — 1st. The quantities and values of the various descriptions of cotton stuffs, of French fabrication, exported during the years specified ; 2d. The quantities of yarns and tissues, with their values, of French fabrication, exported during the years specified ; 3d. A list of countries, and the value of cotton tissues, of French fabrication, exported to each during the yearss pecified. With regard to the commercial exchanges between France and the United States, it wiil be seen, by reference to the official statements in the Tableau General du Commerce for 1856, that France took from us merchandise equal, in its real value, to $50,945,400, of which she consumed to the amount of $41,440,800 ; while we im- ported from her merchandise of the real value of $95,508,000, of which $60,189,600 were articles of French growth or fabrication. Among them were silk tissues and other stuffs, to the value of $27,844,200 ; tissues, embroideries, and ribbons of wool, to the value of $5,811,756 ; tissues, embroideries, and ribbons of "cotton, to the value of $874,200 ; wines, to the value of $6,106,000 ; brandies and spirits, to the value of $2,269,200 ; pottery, glass and crystal ware, to the value of $1,029,324 ; dressed skins, to the value of $2,213,400, &c , &c. The above details will show that the condition of cotton manufacture in France is highly prosperous and remunerative, and there is no reason why the consumption of cotton wool should not go on increasing. The comparative dearness of fuel for manufacturing purposes is more than counterbalanced by the abundance and cheapness of labor and the monopoly of the home market, with a demand for cotton tissues and stuffs for clothing or luxury, which is daily augmenting. Neverthe- less, the cotton manufacturing interest is at present in a nervous and excited state, owing to the exertions of the advocates of greater free- dom of trade, and the abolition or radical modification of the pro- hibitory system. While all the arguments of the friends of the existing policy are earnest, and often even impassioned, some of them are rather amusing. Rouen may be regarded as the very centre of the influence of the pro- hibitory policy, and it was there that I met with a small pamphlet, entitled Le Libre Echange et le Droit d' Ainesse en Engleterre, par un Bouennais, (free trade and the law of primogeniture in England, by a CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 19 resident of Rouen,) in which the writer attributes England's great manufacturing prosperity mainly to the cheapness of coal and the law of primogeniture ; warning his countrymen of the political and social evils which will inevitably follow, should France open her ports, in imitation of her neighbor, to foreign cotton manufactures. That a modification — the greater the better — of our commercial treaty with France, would be followed by an increased consumption of our cotton wool and other products, and would tend to the increased prosperity of both countries, does not admit of reasonable doubt. At Rouen, particularly, the high price of American cotton was com- plained of by the mill owners, and, as a consequence of it, I was told that, on an estimated consumption of 140,000 bales, in the circle, for the year 1857, at least 15,000 would be of East Indian growth. Some of the spinners there had begun to spin East Indian cotton, unmixed with the longer and better stapled American, as has heretofore been the case in France and elsewhere in Europe ; the proportions being one-third or one-fourth East Indian to two-thirds or three-fourths American. In the circle of Mulhouse, at least five-sixths of the raw cotton consumed, is of American growth. 20 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. e "« so CO MS CO ■jo rH ^ B r< «£> "<£ CO Cfc 00 &i H GO i^ -r. g s & CO g o CI o V Jk'e ^ "W ^ o «r e> g o o so •} •^> I— 1 g OS *tt ■^ g ©■ fi <5i =r lO ^ kO so a j &} ^ rH Si ^ o 60 g 6 CO r-i so g rO B fa rH s g 5 5ss TJ 9 u s3 3 .. •B ■3 "sa BO r*5-£ * u p M 111 ^ a P o 0) o 4 P >£) , -P £ a rP 13 .2 P P £ p fa. OOOOOOOOOO oooooooooo OOOONNKtjioOON 'BHHiOtOH (SiOI> o o © © © © O N (O c^Tr-TacT CM © -# CM i-l CM £;£ ©©©©©©©©©© ©©©©©©©©©© CONNWrt if} © © © © © © © © © oo oo t- CM -# 13 rH © © © © © o © 1 — 1 C^4 r— < © © © © © © (M © © © 00 © tM o 00 © 00 © © © © © © © -** CM © © © © © © CO © t^ © oo © © 00 iO L— O >0 t- -* iO © © o © © © •voooo 05 -^1 t~ Ci © CM ■♦(OCO © © © © © © CM © CM •* ■* © CM r* CO G5 >f} © '^i © CO — e8 'S .2 5? -^ a » 2 S« P^-ap so ■gfig PQ O o — ^ o ^ p TT .Si P Ch i— < -^ 03 P i>0 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 21 B. Tariff of duties levied on cotton ivool imported into France. Kilogrammes converted into pounds, and francs and centimes into dollars and cents. Cotton wool. By French vessels, per 221 pounds. By foreign vessels, or by land. From French colonies Turkey India Elsewhere, out of Europe . Entrepots By land Unginned cotton from — French colonies Turkey India Elsewhere, out of Europe. 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CO (O E CC r- OC >— i ifl K5 Ol -* t- 00 CN to 00 CI OOiNomOiCXl-'^C. H ■* iO O M *iniOM iOCCiOWNMnf-Ht.T(IHOO-*HCD03biOiO» B)H(»COiliHHXCONHnC>HOHHN ■* 00 CO CO rH i— I rH oooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooooo i*l0000X00O00'*00MO'i<^ON00'*C0NCDCSO W'*H«'*NiaNOfl:Moi tjT-< » ia"t- oo i» ih oo"ia' ^Not^mcxcoN-oicoNinoiocotHCCHHCo ■*rtXCCOi-iOOiON iT3 CO -* i— I i— I -* ■* eo -rfi ih i-i « frl =» -e § — fl a a =£ 0Q P S 2 £ St £ CD O CO • ^; ;; p 'J cc bo o £ °3 d S 2. co jx ' ,£3 O B O <*- CD CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 25 SWITZERLAND. Entirely surrounded by other nations, with political institutions of an exceptional character on the continent of Europe, and forced to depend on the comity or caprice of her neighbors with maritime fron- tiers for her supplies of the raw material, Switzerland yet occupies so important a place in the cotton manufacture of the day, and combines so many advantages as to the abundance of capital and labor, as to rank next after Great Britain and the United States in the cheapness of her productions in that branch of industry. With her increased cost of raw material and motive power, may be said to be compensated by low wages and greater artistic skill in the handling of the various fabrics which are sent out from her mills. In the year 1850 her entire population was 2,392.740, and in 1852 the cotton wool imported for consumption was 245,422 quintals, of 50 kilogrammes, or 110 pounds each, making 26,996,420 pounds, or 11,028 pounds to the inhabitant ; while her export of cotton yarn, twist and fabrics of various kinds summed up to 150,758 quintals, or 15,088,590 pounds, being an average of 6,028 pounds to the inhab- itant ; leaving an average consumption of more than five pounds to the inhabitant. Previous to the period of my visit to Switzerland, the only published history of the origin, progress and condition of the cotton manufacture of the countr) was that of Doctor, now Sir John Bowring, who visited Switzerland as the commissioner of the British Board of Trade, and whose "Report on the Commerce and Manufactures of Switzerland," addressed to that body, is to be found in volume 45 of the parliament- ary papers, session of 1836. In July last "The Trade Statistics of Switzerland," by M. Emile Weber, was published at Zurich, and being more than twenty years later in date than the report of Sir John Bowring, may well be sup- posed to contain more accurate information as to the actual condition of manufactures in the country. The courtesy of a correspondent of Berne enables me to refer, in a subsequent portion of this report, to M. Weber's account of the number of cotton mills in Switzerland. Like all who visit the Swiss confederation, Sir John Bowring was most favorably impressed with those evidences of industry, comfort, and well-being which everywhere meet the eye of the stranger ; and he pays, on more than one occasion, an eloquent tribute to the thrift, skill, intelligence, and hospitality of the people. Patient industry, regulated economy, immense capital, and a generous hospitality , would seem to be hereditary with these bold and independent mountaineers, whose hands are as cunning in the workshop as they are unflinching in the field of battle. According to Mr. J. G. Zellwegger, of St. Gall, in a communication addressed to Sir John Bowring at the time of his visit, cotton manu- factures were known at Zurich as early as 1419, and he cites a law of the canton of Lucerne, enacted in 1423, ordering that cotton should thenceforth be sold by weight. It may be that this was the origin of the custom, still so generally prevalent in continental Europe, of giving in 26 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. trade returns, or tables of imports and exports, the quantities of cotton and other tissues imported or exported into any country, by weight in- stead of measure, in ells, yards, &c. The markets for the goods fab- ricated in the fifteenth century were France, Italy, and Germany. The fabrication of cotton cambrics (bazins) was commenced in Appen- zell, about the year 1746, the period, it will be remembered, of the establishment at Mulhouse, then a portion of the Swiss territory, of manufactures of Indiennes. This, said Mr. Zellwegger, was a fortu- nate thing for the canton, as the war which broke out in the East Indies ten years afterwards, between England and France, brought manufactures of cottons and muslins into great demand, and several new establishments for bleaching and dyeing, with dressing machines and machinery for printing calicoes, were put into operation. Cotton spinning, by hand, of course, also began about the same period, " the spinner being able to earn three florins ($1 20) a week, and a weaver double that amount, while a measure of wheat of twenty- five pounds (twenty ounces each) did not cost more than forty kreutz- ers, or two-thirds of a florin." " It was about this period," continued Mr. Zellwegger, "that the firm of G-ruzebach introduced the art of embroidering, which commenced by embroidering the wrists of men's shirts." A visit to St. Gall, last July, brought me the acquaintance of Mr. Zellwegger, of the very respectable house of Holderegger & Zellwegger, to whose obliging attentions and great intelligence I be- came greatly indebted, and was enabled to see many of those beautiful embroideries and figured muslins for which that city has become re- nowned, and which are the work of the peasantry in the neighboring mountains of Appenzell. The days of embroidered frills and powdered perukes had long since passed away, but of exquisite collars and sleeves to deck, though not conceal, the necks and arms of the belles of the present day, there was an almost endless variety. The conclusion of the treaty of 1783, between England and France, brought with it a great reduction in the price, but not in the demand for Swiss manufactures, and a machine for making twist thread for embroideries was introduced, being the " first machine established in the canton." Attempts were also made to manufacture water twist and mule twist, as in England, and a native mechanic invented a machine to spin cotton, "which," observes Mr. Zellwegger, "was much inferior to the British machines." The following paragraph will show how the Swiss manufacturers looked at opposition and its probable consequences at that period : " Cotton manufactures were now established in France, and our workmen were bribed away in order to conduct them. This occasioned several prohibitory proclamations on the part of our magistrates, which were attended with as little effect as were the silly lamentations which, in every direction, predicted the utter ruin of our industry by the progress of manufactures in France. The French, on the other hand, raised a similar cry, should our goods be permitted to be placed in competition with the manufactures of that country. But all these fears and prognostications were without foundation ; our manufactures continued to increase." And so, might he have added, did those of France and every other CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 27 country engaged in the like industry. An increase which, vast as it has already proved, is, in all probability, destined to a further expansion, the limits of which few, at all acquainted with its history, will venture to prescribe. The French government, carrying out that policy of prohibition which appears to have reigned in its councils since the days of Colbert, at this period prohibited the introduction of Swiss cotton goods, which was followed by a fall in their prices of from 40 to 50 per cent., a shock hard to bear, but not so disastrous as it might have otherwise proved, as it was followed by a system of smuggling on an extensive scale. In the year 1797, English machine-spun cottons first made their appearance in the Swiss markets ; but the demand for them was checked by the general belief that they were inferior in strength and durability to yarns spun by hand. The spinners, meanwhile, took the occasion to improve themselves in weaving and embroidery, and their general prosperity continued until the French invasion in 1798, and the occu- pation of the country by the victorious troops of the new republic, subsequent to which an almost complete stagnation was visible. For some years Switzerland continued to constitute a part of the French republic, or the empire which succeeded it, and shared its fortunes in commerce and manufactures ; the latter of which, particu- larly after the treaty of Amiens, suffered no little from the increased facilities for cheap productions afforded in England by new inventions in various branches of the art. The spinners of St. Gall, however, showed no antipathy to these new systems of labor, but availed them- selves readily of whatever advantages they possessed ; and in 1800, the year of its introduction, as has already been said, through Ghent into France, the English spinning machine was introduced into St. Gall, followed, in 1801, by power-looms, machines for dressing cloth, and a chemical process for bleaching. The wars of the French empire, and the changes brought about by the events which accompanied them, together with the c mmercial policy proclaimed subsequent to the overthrow of that empire by most of the leading continental powers, had a marked and, in many re- spects, a very ruinous effect on the fortunes of the Swiss cotton manufac- turers; and, deprived of their accustomed markets, they began to turn their eyes towards the United States, and even remoter markets ; the result has been an ample reward for their enterprise and skill. At the time of Sir John Bo wring's visit, in 1835, the canton of Zurich had not taken the position of superiority in Swiss cotton manu- facture which it now unquestionably holds, as it possesses 503,369 of the 1,112,303 spindles, and 2,595 of the 7,779 looms to be found in the country. As is said above, cotton manuiactures had their origin there earty in the fifteenth century, and exhibited a gradual increase until the beginning of the present century, when, in 1802, an Englishman introduced, though with defective machinery, the spinning of water and mule twist ; but it was not until five years afterwards that ma- chinery sufficiently perfect to insure prosperity to that branch was introduced. The consumption of cotton wool in 1835 was about 3,360,000 pounds, which was spun into yarns varying in numbers from 20 to 40, although a mill at Winterthur sent out No. 120. The number of persons then 28 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. employed in that canton, in spinning, was about 5,000 ; the average wages being, for men 3|, the women 2, and the children 1^ florins per week. [The florin was equal to 60 kreutzers, or 40 cents of our currency. It is not now used, having given place to francs and centimes, of the same value as those of France and Belgium] At the same period there were about 12,000 weavers and 4,000 other persons engaged in cotton manufactures ; 800,000 pieces of cloth were manufactured yearly, with nineteen printing establishments, employ- ing 1,000 persons, and producing yearly about 100,000 pieces of calico. The canton had then 225,000 inhabitants, and in 1850 they had in- creased to 250,698. The canton of Aargau, or Argovia, as it is also called, occcupied, in 1835, the next rank to Zurich in cotton spinning and weaving ; at this day it has the same number of mills for spinning as St. Gall, though the number of spindles exceeds that of the latter canton. Aargau produces, principally, the lowest numbers of yarns and the coarser styles of tissues. In 1835 the weaving was altogether done by hand, and in the dwellings of the weavers. It theu imported raw cotton from the English, French, and Dutch markets, and also via Trieste, and received from England cotton twist, chiefly of the higher numbers, cloths for printing, and various other tissues of that mate- rial. According to the report so often quoted above, the wages were from 7 to 10 batzen (10^d. to Is. 3c?.) per day, for spinners and those employed in the printing establishments. Youths, between 14 and 18 years, got from 3 to 5 batzen per day. According to Mr. Weber's " Trade Statistics of Switzerland, Zurich, 1857," the number of cotton spinning mills in Switzerland is now 132, and the number of weaving mills 48, distributed and furnished as follows: Cantons. Argovia , Basle Berne St. Gall Glarus Schaffhausen Schwiz Thurgan Zurich Zug Total . Mills. 132 Spindles. 162,400 8,000 14,600 115,894 139,140 10,300 59,500 23,100 503,693 76,000 1,112,303 Weaving Mills. 10 1 4 10 1 2 4 14 2 48 Looms. 1,320 150 480 1,890 150 440 454 2,595 300 7,779 At St. Gall I was furnished, through the courtesy of M. Bergermann, the leading dealer in yarns and twist, with a table, carefully prepared by his deceased partner, in the year 1853, of all the spinning and weaving mills then known in Switzerland, with the places of location, number of spindles or looms, and names of proprietors. At that period the number of spinners was 138, with 907,799 spin- dles, and of weaving mills 31, with 3,727 looms, of which only six were distinct from spinneries. M. Bergermann estimated the increase in spindles, for the tour years elapsed since the table was compiled, at 10 per cent.; and the statement furnished by M. Weber shows that he was within the mark. The apparent dimunition in the number of CONSUMPTION OP COTTON IN EUROPE. 29 mills, during the same period, can scarcely be real, as the business has unquestionably been prosperous and yielding fair profits on the capital invested. The two most extensive cotton spinneries in Switzerland at the present day are Messrs. Henri Kunz and Henri Schmid, both of whom reside in the canton of Zurich. I had the pleasure and advantage of an interview with the first named, at his residence, in the town of Uster, some fifteen miles from the city of Zurich, and he gave me some interesting details as to the manufacture. The annual consumption in the different mills belonging to Mr. Kunz is between 6,000 and 7,000 bales of raw cotton ; having, as he said, diminished somewhat under the great rise in prices. Of late, owing to an increasing demand for the finer numbers of cotton yarns, he has been using American and Egyptian cotton, in about equal quantities, and finds that the latter, though costing more, yields a greater profit for those descriptions of yarns. Of sea-islands he con- sumed but a very small quantity, and that only for the very finest numbers of yarns. But few mills (only three or four) in the country use it. Egyptian cotton of good middling quality or above, delivered at Uster, costs from 130 to 150 francs ($24 18 to $27 90) the 100 Swiss pounds ; while American, of similar grades, costs from 10 francs ($1 86) to 15 francs ($2 79) less for the same weight. The Swiss pound is 10 per cent, heavier than the English. Egyptian bales weigh from 350 to 500 Swiss pounds. On American cotton wool the waste is, he says, about 12 to 15 per cent.; on Egyptian, which is not so clean, it is fully one per cent. more. Surat cotton is only used when American and Egyptian reach very high prices, while Brazilian is scarcely known. The duties levied on the raw material are but insignificant, and are less than the road and bridge tolls used to be when each canton had its own custom-houses ; and consumption is not affected by them in the least. Mr. Kunz purchases the bulk of his raw material at Liv- erpool, as he gives limited orders, and wishes to keep them as far as practicable under his control, which he could not do in the remoter American markets. When he does buy at American ports, his agents are supplied with credits on London, Paris, or Basle, as may be most advisable at the period of purchase. The freight charges vary, so far as ship carriage is concerned, considerably, according to the facility of procuring vessels. When cotton is purchased at Liverpool it is transported in vessels to Mannheim, and there transferred to the railroads ; the charges per 100 kilogrammes (220 pounds) to Zurich being from 6 francs 40 cen- times to 6 francs 75 centimes. The freight from Botterdam, via Mannheim, is 4 f. 5 cent, to 4 f. 80 cent, the 100 kilos. From Havre the same weight will cost, by rail, 6 f. 40 cent, to 6 f: 50 cent. From Marseilles it will cost, if by rail, 6 f. 15 cent, to 6 f. 35 cent. ; and if partially by water, 35 to 60 centimes less. In all these cases the duty of 30 centimes per 100 kilos, is not included. M. Henri Schmid very courteousty replied to the various questions asked of him. His annual consumption of raw material is about 6,000 30 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE, quintals (110 pounds,) or 660,000 pounds, of which only one-sixth is of Egyptian growth, which is imported by way of Trieste. The remain- der is of American, Georgia, and Louisiana, and comes by way of Havre or Marseilles. He estimates the cost of transportation to the factoiy as being equal to 30 per cent, on the purchase price ; there be- ing but little difference between the various ports in this respect, with the exception of Havre, through which the charges do not exceed 20 per cent. Mr. Schmid has several spinning or weaving mills, giving employ- ment to some 800 hands, whose average wages are 1 franc 40 centimes per diem, and the yearly value of their products bring 1,000,000 francs, or $186,000. Of the yarns spun, the far greater portion is woven on the spot, Some go to eastern Switzerland, and a small quantity to the German markets. The numbers spun range from 20 to 200 of the English system. Of tissues, the chief production is of calicoes (yarns, 40 to 50) and jaconet muslins. The annual production is 1,600,000 ells, of the value of 500,000 francs, or $93,000, for all of which there is a good home market. When he buys in the United States his agents have credits on London or Paris, at sixty days' sight, sub- ject to prevailing rates of exchange on the last named city, which generally range from 5 francs 15 centimes to 5 francs 30 centimes the dollar. Purchases at Alexandria are paid for in a similar manner, though the rates of exchange vary in that case between 5 francs and 5 francs 15 centimes the dollar. Mr. Schmid estimates the average waste on American cotton, according to grade, at from 10 to 20 per cent. It is, as a general rule, less than that in other varieties of the same classification, though it may be sometimes more. The waste of American is in greater demand than that of Egyptian or Indian cot- ton. He agrees with all other spinners from whom I have had any information, that the duty on the raw material is too small to affect consumption. At Zurich a leading merchant and cotton buyer informed me that at least nine-tenths of the consumption of cotton wool in Switzerland was of the growth of the United States ; there being but a small pro- portion of Egyptian, and still less of Brazilian or East Indian, called for. The Swiss manufacturers, with whom capital is generally abun- dant, have availed themselves of all the latest inventions and improve- ments in machinery, both for spinning and weaving; and their estab- lishments are, for the most part, models as to neatness, order and skill. The little town of Watwyl, built high up among the spurs of the Alps, is the scene of an active and prosperous industry. I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the two leading firms of Abram Raschle and J. Rod Raschle & Co., to each of whom I am in- debted for courteous reception and readily furnished information as to the condition of the cotton manufacture at Watwyl. Mr. Abram Raschel carries on the three branches of spinning, weaving and dyeing. Three-fourths of the raw cotton consumed in his mills is of the growth of the United States, and of ordinary grades ; the other fourth is of Egyptian growth. His markets are the United States, (which is the chief,) the Levant, the East Indies — the places to which his fabrics go being Singapore, Manila, Calcutta, and Bombay, and Italy, which takes about one-third of his manufactures. CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 31 The waste varies in spinning from 6 per cent, to 10 per cent. The numbers of yarns spun range from 40 to 60. Unbleached, these yarns are worth 3 francs, or 56 cents, for 40's ; and 4 francs, or 74 cents, per pound for 60 's. His looms are all worked by hand, and the num- ber of hands employed by him ranges from 600 to 800. In 1856 the value of the products of his mills was 1,000,000 francs, or $186,000, the whole of which went to foreign markets. The establishment of Messrs. J. Eod Raschle & Co. are more ex- tensive than those of Mr. Abram Raschle. They use but very little Egyptian or Surat cottons ; the great bulk being of the growth of the United States, and of the variety which they term Louisiana. The tissues principally produced at Watwyl are ginghams, checks, madras handkerchiefs, printanieres, and striped goods. The print- anieres for Turkey and the Levant are of fine styles, as are many of the ginghams. For the East Indies the styles are cheap and heavy. Gaily colored shawls and handkerchiefs, with Turkey red grounds and light figures, are also manufactured to a considerable extent. The calicoes and other stuffs demanded by the home market are for the most part woven in the houses of the different families, scarcely one of which is without a loom and weaver. These two firms have their agents at New York, and other cities, and their invoices are made up on orders transmitted through them. The small though very wealthy city of St. Gall, the highest town of any importance in Europe, above the level of the sea, is the centre of the manufactures of fine muslins and embroideries. To the firm of Holderegger & Zellwegger, who carry on a large business in those articles, I was indebted for the kindest reception and the most civil attentions during my stay in the town. There is but little manu- facturing carried on in St. Gall itself, the business being mostly in the hands of small and enterprising capitalists, who enter into con- tracts with the merchants for furnishing within a given delay such quantities of embroideries or figured muslins as they may desire, and then have the work executed by the inhabitants of the district or canton in which they live, and which may be many miles away ; or in some instances, where these middlemen are well known for probity and punctuality, they are entrusted by the merchants with a given quantity of thread or bobinet, laces or tulles, to be converted into muslins or embroideries within a certain delay, to be paid for at an agreed rate, after deducting the value of the materials so furnished. Two leagues from St. Gall, and still higher above the sea, is the beautiful and very cleanly little town of Herisan, in the canton of Appenzell, which is also remarkable for its figured muslins and various articles of embroidered work, as well as for other tissues of cotton of greater or less fineness, according to the demand. Through the kindness of Mr. J. J. Neff, t had here the opportunity of witness- ing the operation of weaving the finer and more costly styles of figured muslins. The looms used were, as I was informed, the invention of Mr. Neff. They are placed in well lighted cellars, in order to preserve the moisture and pliability of the threads used, which is the general mode of the entire district. The yarns used for these styles of muslins are from numbers 60 to 150 and 180. The weavers get from 8 francs to 10 francs the piece of 8 ells. 32 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. At St. Gall and Herisan may be seen some of the finest and costliest figured or other muslins and embroideries for dress and curtains, which enjoy a superiority in all the markets of the civilized world, only disputed to a limited extent by the productions of Tarare, for which the French claim a superiority in the taste of the designs. The chief markets for the finest articles of these description are Eng- land and the United States. The inferior goods go to the Levant, the East Indies, South America, &c. The bobinet for these em- broideries is imported from England, and comes from the famous looms of Nottingham. At St. Gall are also found several bleaching and dressing mills. That belonging to Mr. Messmer is extensive and well worth a visit ; the courteous proprietor taking every pains to point out and explain its various details. Here muslins, tulles, guipures, ginghams, printa- nieres, shawls and handkerchiefs are either bleached, dyed, printed, washed, sized or folded, pressed, marked and packed, ready for the various markets to which they are destined. Many of the processes are highly interesting, particularly those for the dyeing of muslins and em- broideries by steam, in order to preserve the pliability of the threads. The wages paid in these establishments range from eighty centimes to one franc fifty centimes per day for women, and two francs to three francs per day for men. The working day is fourteen hours, and in the winter it is not un- common for the hands to work from 5 o'clock a. m. to midnight, with customary intermissions for meals. In this portion, at least, of Switzerland, children begin to work in the factories at the age of ten, and, in some instances, even six years. It is obligatory on the em- ployer to permit them to attend school, at fixed hours, daily, until they reach twelve years, and once or twice a week afterwards, until they are fourteen. Their wages are very small, not exceeding fifteen centimes — some- thing under five cents — per day, when they first enter the mill, and for some time afterwards. The stuffs printed at St. Gall are of both Swiss and English fabri- cation, no little of "gray cloth" being imported from the latter to be converted into colored goods. For the markets of Constantinople and the Levant, great quantities of gaily colored articles, such as shawls and handkerchiefs, mostly on Turkey red grounds, are preferred. For Wallachia and the other markets on the lower Danube, graver tints are preferred ; which is also the case with the goods sent to Spain and Italy. All these tissues are of the lower qualities of cotton, the yarns used being Nos. 40 to 80, for warp, and 60 to 100, for woof; they are also, for the most part, rather flimsy in texture. For robes, the muslins are of much finer quality, those of English fabrication being composed of yarns ranging from Nos. 80 to 140. All descriptions of embroidery, in St. Gall and Appenzell, are done by hand, with the exception of some narrow insertions, for which machinery is employed. For purposes of revenue from importations, Switzerland is divided into six arrondissements, or districts. The first consists of the cantons of Berne, Soleure, Basle (town and county), and Aargau ; the second, CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 33 of the cantons of Zurich, Schaffhausen and Thurgovia ; the third, of the cantons of St. Grail and the Grisons ; the fourth, of the cantons of Tessino ; the fifth of the cantons of Vaud and Neufchatcl ; and the sixth, of the cantons of Valais and Geneva. The importations of cotton-wool into the country by way of the north, the northwest, and northeast, may he assumed to be almost exclusively of American growth. Those by the east and south are, on the contrary, almost exclusively of Egyptian growth ; while those of the southwest are also Egyptian, with perhaps a small portion of American, shipped from New Orleans to Marseilles. The table herewith presented, which is official, will show the annual import of cotton-wool, yarns, and tissues, and duties paid thereon, together with the exports of the same, for the five years from 1852 to 1856, inclusive It will be seen that the amount of cotton-wool im- ported in 1852 was 27,396,420 pounds, and in 1856, 28,324,860 pounds. While the cotton-wool exported in 1852 was 1,464,650 pounds, and in 1856, 1,773,200 pounds, with an annual average of 1,549,430 pounds. The quantity of yarns and threads imported during the same period averaged 364,540 pounds ; that exported, 1,671,560 pounds. The quantity of cotton tissues imported averaged 3,529,020 pounds, while the exports of the same averaged 15,788,960 pounds. As for the future prospects of cotton manufacture in Switzerland, it may be said that though it is an inland country, without seaports or coal beds, and therefore obliged to pay an increased price for the raw material, as well as for the necessary fuel to convert it into yarns or tissues, there is, nevertheless, to be found abundance of capital and cheap labor, whereby those disadvantages are overcome to a consider- able degree. The general diffusion of skill in handwork, aided by the system of popular education, the frugal habits of the people, and the winters of eight month's duration, compelling the inhabitants to remain within doors, all contribute to make up for the disadvantages under which it otherwise labors; the influence of new inventions in machinery, and methods of saving fuel, must also be felt there as they have been elsewhere ; while the more liberal modern systems which dispense raw materials and manufactures from it, in transitu, from the payment of duties to the countries through which they pass, place Switzerland more on a footing with maritime countries than might otherwise be the case. A still further increase in her impor- tation and manufacture of cotton- wool seems therefore altogether probable. I cannot conclude this portion of my report without expressing my obligations for kind assistance or valuable information from our excel- lent minister at Berne, the Hon. Theodore S. Fay; to Mr. A. H. Goundie, the consul at Zurich, and to Messrs. Frauschini and Frey, members of the federal' council of the Swiss confederation. M Fraus- chini, in particular, manifested the warmest desire to afford me all possible information. He was a gentleman of accomplished manners and varied information, and the proceedings of the general assembly on the occasion of his sudden death showed the high esteem in which he was held by his countrymen. Ex. Doc, 35 3 34 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. CO C^3 GO 8 5»i < "*3 g « 6 "a R. 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CO a £- CO I-H cS S CD « ( S i ! 2 urg burg . . 1 Hesse, f Hesse. ck a o "c« s Prussia. Luxemb Bavaria Saxony . Wurtem Baden . . Electora Duchy o Thuving Brunswi ■2, CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 77 THE AUSTRIAN EMPIRE. It was not in my power to obtain any information as to the date of the establishment of cotton spinning and manufacture in Austria or any of its German provinces. Of late years they have, however, in- creased very considerably, having shared the general prosperity of that branch of industry in Europe. The import of cotton wool for the year 1856, according to the official review of the imports and exports for that year, published at Vienna in 1857, amounted to 768,197 Zoll centners, which, at 110 T s 8 5 oV United States pounds, each, would make 84,774,371 United States pounds ; of this 758,895 Zoll centners, or 83,747,858 pounds, were for consumption, and 9,302 Zoll centners, or 1,026,503 pounds, were in transit. The importation of 1856, compared with that of 1855, exhibited an increase of 140,936 Zoll centners, or 15,552,993 pounds. The value of the cotton consumed was, in Austrian convention, florins 23,760,070, equal, at 48J cents each, to the sum of $10,938,634. Upon raw cotton and its waste, imported for consumption, no duty is levied ; if it be in transit, there is a small duty of six kreutzers, or 4 r 8 ¥ cents per Zoll centner. " The report of the Department of Statistics, published by the Directory of Administrative Statistics of the Imperial Ministry of Commerce for the fourth year, Vienna, 1855," gives a complete list of the cotton spin- neries of the empire in the year 1854, from which the following table has been compiled: Provinces. Mills. No. of spindles. Description of yarns, &c. Upper Austria 47 9 3 1 2 22 71 30 2 1 1 569,979 83,590 25,464 12,000 18,300 214,094 449,906 129,046 28,464 1,440 960 No. 6 up to 40, 60, 80, 100, 110, 120 Lower Austria . . 140. No. 4 to 44,50,60,80,100. Styria . . No. 6 to 40, 190. Carniola . No. 6 to 40. Goerz No. 4 to 44,"4 to 26. Tyrul No. 4 to 46, 6 to 46, 10 to 40, 30 to 40. hernia No. 1, 4, and 6, to 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, Lombardy . 80,90,100,120. No. 4 to 20 6 to 20 6 to 30 6 to 40 Venice 20 to 100. No. 6 to 40. Hungary ..._. No. 6 to 16, 6 to 20. No. 6 to 16. Total 189 1,533,243 Several of these mills, also, spin twist, particularly those of Felixdorf, No. 30-100 ;) Truman, 6-140 ;)*and Haratic, (20-160.) It will be perceived that the great bulk of Austrian spun yarns are of the lowest numbers, ranging from No. 4 to No 50, upon which the tariff affords a very high and almost prohibitive protection. The yarns produced are mostly unbleached, and a ready home mar- ket is found for them. 78 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. The demand is principally for middling qualities 16-24, which are worth, ordinarily, in the Trieste market 5| florins ($2 70) the package of 10 English pounds. When imported, they are sent chiefly to Hun- gary, Bosnia and Wallachia. Bleached yarns of the lower numbers imported cannot ordinarily compete, by reason of the duty, with those of domestic production. At Trieste, which is a free port, they are worth, generally, from 4 florins ($1 94) to 4^ florins ($2 18) the pack- age of 10 English pounds, and are in demand for the Levant markets. The duty on bleached yarn and twist is 46^ kreutzers (near 36 cents) the package of 10 English pounds. On bleached and twisted yarn the duty is 54| kreutzers (near 44 cents) in the package of 10 Eng- lish pounds, while on those which are dyed it is 1 florin 22 kreutzers (near 65 cents) for the same measure, and they are also excluded from the domestic market by reason of the duties. The domestic yarns are worth at Prague, which is the great centre of production, the province of Bohemia having 71 mills and 449,906 spindles out of a total of 1,533,243, from 42 to 45 kreutzers (35 to 36 cents) the English pound. This does not, as I was told, materially differ from the prices at other points of Austria. A very active spinning business is carried on at Prague and the neighboring districts of Bohemia, the raw material being almost wholly supplied by way of Bremen. The mill of Mr. Richter — the only one visited by me — has 16,000 spindles, employs 500 hands in spinning and weaving, and consumes, on an average, 10,000 pounds of cotton per week, nearly all of which is " middling" Georgia and Louisiana, which, delivered at the mill, cost from 45 florins ($21 83) to 50 florins ($24 25) the centner, (HOfVoV United States pounds.) Surat is used but to a limited extent, and for the lowest numbers, being mixed with the other varieties. The yarns spun are chiefly Nos. 25 and 26, which are woven into ordinary cloths. The yarn of this and other lower numbers is worth at Prague from 42 to 45 kreutzers (33 t 6 q to 36 cents) the United States pound. The wages paid are, for a head spinner, from 7 to 8 florins ($3 40 to $3 86) per week. He is allowed one assistant, at 2 florins (97 cents,) and two boys, one of whom receives one florin 48 kreutzers (86/,, cents,) and the other one florin 30 kreutzers (72 cents) per week. For women and girls, the wages are from 15 to 25 kreutzers (12 to 20 cents) per day. For weavers, the average wages are 3 florins ($1 45) per week. The working day begins at 5 a. m., and ends at 7 p. m., and an ordi- nary weaver can weave from 24 to 30 Austrian ells (20 to 26f yards) per week. Spinning is also carried on in all the other provinces named in the table to a greater or less extent; the difference being mainly in the fineness or coarseness of the yarns turned out. In the two provinces (Upper and Lower Austria) of Austria proper and Styria, a greater proportion of the finer numbers are turned out ; but the new material consumed continues to be, for by far the greater part, of the growth of the United States ; and, as observed in a former part of this report, imported for the mills in the Vorarlberg, Vienna, and Styria, by way CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 79 of Bremen or Hamburg, on account of the superior advantages the first named city especially presents above Trieste or Vienna in the lowness of freights. The Movimento della Navigazione e Commercio, in Trieste, nelV anno solare 1856 — The Movement in Commerce and Navigation, in Trieste, for the solar year 1856 — an official publication, gives the following statement of the importation of raw cotton into that port in the year 1856, with the countries or ports from which it came : Centners. From Austrian ports 427 The Papal States 108 Greece 99 Sardinia 184 France on the Mediterranean 25 France on the Atlantic 470 Malta 12 Great Britain and Ireland 60,594 Netherlands 7 Turkey 5,180 Egypt 102,199 St. Domingo 150 United States. 133,020 Total 302,430 Or, 33,375,326 pounds. The exportations for the same period were, by land, 171,387 cent- ners, or 18,913,412 pounds ; and by sea as follows : ■ Centners. To Austrian ports 80,180 Papal States 442 Greece 26 Kingdom of Naples 1,449 Ionian Islands 43 Tuscany 38 Turkey 178 Total 82,356 Or, 9,088,397 pounds. The cotton exported to Austrian ports went, as I was informed, into Lombardy, by way of the river Po ; and what was not demanded there went over the Alps into Tyrol, the Vorarlberg, and a portion also into Switzerland. The 171,387 centners exported by land was nearly all sent into Styria, Carniola, Gorz, &c. What effect the completion and putting into operation of the entire railroad line between Trieste and Vienna, which was accomplished last summer, may have upon the importation of cotton, particularly from the United States, the East Indies, or 80 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. South America, into Trieste, remains yet to be seen. The great ob- stacle to any marked increase is the uncertainty of obtaining return freights for cotton-laden vessels ; and unless that be removed, Bremen will probably continue to maintain her supremacy as the entrepot for the much greater part of the raw material, unless Genoa should de- prive her of a portion of the trade, now that the Sandinian and Lombard lines of railroad are so extensive, and by which means, it is thought, Lorabardy, the Tyrol, the Vorarlberg, and even Venice herself, perhaps, may be supplied at a less cost of transportation than by ships going to either Venice or Trieste, as that port offers much greater prospects of ready and paying return freights than either of the others. Through the kind attention of Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal, bankers at Venice, I obtained the following statement of the amount and value of cotton wool imported into that port during the years 1855 and 1856, and for the first seven months of 1857. The weights, French kilo- grammes, and the values, Austrian livres, are here reduced to their corresponding values with us. 1855.-85,867 pounds ; value, $10,820. 1856.-99,256 pounds ; value, $12,654. 1857, (seven months.) — 58,123 pounds ; value, $7,462. The condition of the spinning and cotton manufacturing interest in. the Lombardo-Venitian provinces is one of great prosperity, as none but articles which command a ready and profitable home market are turned out, the cost of production, deducting that of the raw material, being quite moderate. The communication which follows is from the highly respectable firm of Antonio and Andrea Ponti, of Milan, who appeared to take the greatest pleasure in giving information, so far as it related to Lombardy and the other Italian provinces of Austria. The importation of raw cotton into Lombardy is estimated at 30,000 bales, of which 25,000 are of the growth of the United States, and 5,000 of the Indies and the Levant — i. e., cottons coming from Mad- ras, Bombay and Surat, and cottons coming from Macedonia, Smyrna and Malta. The much greater part of the cotton from the United States, Malta, and the Indies, is received through the port of Genoa, and nearly all the cottons from the Levant are imported by way of Trieste, where there is a great entrepot of those qualities, and formerly a much more considerable importation was counted, but the low prices of cotton in America during the years 1840, 1844, 1848, 1849, and 1850, have broken up the culture of cotton in the countries of the Levant. Before the opening of the railroad from Genoa to Novara, a great deal of the cotton from the United States came in by way of Trieste, and was sent to Milan by the river Po as far as Mantua, and after- wards, by wagon, to its destination; but now the transport by rail- road furnishes a more rapid and economical way, and has annihilated the commerce of Trieste as regards that article, Genoa being much nearer to Milan and possessing superior advantages, although the entire line of railway from Milan to Venice and Trieste is now open. CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 81 The transportation from Genoa to Milan, including all expenses of discharging, warehousing, &c, is calculated at ^ cent per dollar on the American pound, while, on the contrary, the transportation from Trieste to Milan would cost twice as much and take twice the time. At Genoa cotton is bought directly through brokers, without other expense than a commission of one-half of 1 per cent , and is imported at less expense from the country of its growth than at either Trieste or Venice. The first importation of United States cotton into Genoa dates from 1827, by our house of Ponti, a member of which was, in that year, at New Orleans, making direct purchases, and afterwards, in 1841, the writer of this resided in the United States for the long period of eleven years, and carried on trade in this article by way of the Medi- terranean, bringing the consumption up to the point at which it now is, while the previous consumption was only one-quarter American to three-quarters Levant. Now many of the largest spinners import cotton direct from the United States, and are able to furnish a good supply to the smaller spinners. In Lombardy we count 33 spinning mills of 800 horse-power, 500 mule jennies, and 140,000 spindles; of this number the province of Milan contains 18 mills of 450 horse-power, 300 mule jennies, and 80,000 spindles ; the remaining 15 mills are scattered through the adjoining provinces of Bergamo, Brescia, Soudoro, and Como. Our Ponti mill, at Gallavati and Solbrata Alona, is the oldest, and dates from 1810. It counts 18,000 spindles, and is the most extensive in Lombardy. The yarn spun ranges from No. 2 to No. 34. The weight and quality are established on the same footing as in England. All its product is consumed in Lombardy and Venice. The yarns of all the Lombardian spinneries are consumed either in the iabrication of very common stuffs, made of Nos. 2, 4, 8, or 10, which the peasants carry to their homes to be worked up during the winter, making themselves their supply of cloth, or by contractors or whole- sale merchants. The merchandise fabricated by the large manufacturers may be estimated at 300 000 pieces of domestics ; 6,000 pieces of velvets ; 150,000 pieces of fustian ; 170,000 pieces of shirtings ; 150,000 pieces of cottonades; 80,000 pieces of other coarse tissues, and for consump- tion in our country. The length of the piece cannot be given, for the reason that each manufacturer has his own measure; but it may be estimated at an average of sixty yards. The principal villages of production are: Gallavate, for fustians; Busta, for domestics, fustians, and other stuffs; and Monza, for cotton- ades. These villages are all in the province of Milan, and it may be said that they manufacture enough for the requirements of all the other provinces of Lombardy and a good part of Venice. However, many inhabitants of the country also buy yarns of very coarse descrip- tions for the fabrication of heavy goods, such as socks, bonnetry, &c. The number of looms worked at Gallavate, Busta, and Monza, is estimated at 18,000, and nearly all the cultivaters become weavers as soon as they have finished their field work. Ex. Doc. 35 6 82 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. The piece costs from one dollar to one dollar and a quarter, accord- ing to the fineness of quality, and there are, at the least, 5,000 families who are supplied in this manner. Labor with us is so cheap because it is thus employed at hours and seasons when there is nothing else- where to do, and particularly by those members of the families who do not till the soil, that is to say, by children under eight years, and by the aged people above 60 years old. The most extensive manufacturing firms are those of our house and of M. Turati. It was the first named which introduced, in the year 1808, the fabrication of fustians into Lombardy, with which the lower classes of people are at present clothed. Accept, sir, our most devoted salutations. ANTONIO & ANDREA PONTI. Milan, October 7, 1857. The importation of cotton yarns and manufactured goods, par- ticularly those which are bleached or colored, is discouraged by the imposition of duties, which are in some cases heavy, and in others, absolutely prohibitive. Up to the 30th June, 1856, the quantity of unbleached yarn im- ported, was 50,883 Zoll centners, equal to 5,615,189 pounds, upon which the duty paid was 6 florins ($2 91) per centner ; for the remainder of the year, the import amounted to 61,855 Zoll centners, or 6,826,009 pounds, on which the duty paid was 5 florins, or ($2 42.) The total value was 6,764,280 florins, 'or $2,279,675 ; while the total duty paid was 614,573 florins, or $298,067. Of bleached, but not dyed yarn, the import for the year was only 3,249 Zoll centners, or 353,543 pounds, paying a duty of 10 florins ($4 85) the Zoll centner, and its value was 324,900 florins, or $157,576, paying a total cluty of 32,490 florins, or $15,757. Of dyed yarn and twist, the import was 1,211 Zoll centners or 133,641 pounds. It was valued at 157,430 florins, or $76,353, which, at the duty of 12 florins, 30 kreutzers, or $6 06 the Zoll centner, yielded a revenue of 15,137 florins, or $7,341. Of this description, there were imported under "the free trade with the Zollverein States," 15,772 Zoll centners, or 1,740,520 pounds ; which paid only 2 florins 30 kreutzers, or $1 22 duty, the Zoll centner. Its value was 2,050,360 florins, or $994,424, and the revenue derived from it amounted to 39,430 florins, or $19,054. On bleached, but not dyed yarns, coming in under the same arrangement with the Zollverein States, the duty is only 2 florins, 30 kreutzers, or $1 22, while on unbleached yarns it is levied at the same rate. Trieste being a free port, with an extensive trade with the Levant, Bosnia, Servia and Wallachia, there is a considerable demand for such qualities and descriptions of yarns, as could not, if sent into the Austrian markets, at all enter into competition with those of domestic production by reason of the enormous duties. The yarns destined for Trieste are generally put up in packages of 10 pounds English. But jealous as the Austrian government shows itself as to competi- CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 83 tion with its domestic produce of cotton yarns and twist, it is still more so with regard to the introduction of cotton fabrics and tissues ; and although it has not gone to the length that France has done, of prohibiting absolutely and in express language, their introduction within its territory, the same object is attained by the imposition of a scale of duties which are virtually prohibitive. Thus, on the most ordinary description of cotton stuffs, "raw, unbleached, undyed, and unprinted," the duty imposed amounts to 40 florins ($19 44) the Zoll centner. On articles of middling fineness, dressed, bleached, dyed, &c, 75 florins ($36 24) the Zoll centner. If from the States of the Zollverein, 45 florins ($21 84.) Muslins printed, 100 florins, or ($48 24,) the Zoll centner. If from the "free trade of the Zollverein States," 45 florins, ($21 84.) Bobbinets, English tulles, laces and embroideries, 250 florins, or $121 25, the Zoll centner. It from the "free trade of the Zollverein States," 200 florins, or $97. And if from the privileged factories of Venice, 228 florins 40 kreutzers, or $110 90. With such duties to contend against, it is not to be wondered at that the entire importation of all such fabrics and tissues into the Austrian empire, with its 39,500,000 inhabitants, only amounted, in 1856, to 7,768 Zoll centners, or 857,237 pounds, of the value of 1,769,680 florins, or $858,295, while the revenue amounted to 649,259 florins, or $314,890. SARDINIA. Although somewhat later in the adoption of cotton spinning, and the other branches of manufacture of which our great staple furnishes the material, than many of the continental states, Sardinia exhibits a healthy state of progress, if an opinion may be formed from the con- sumption of cotton wool, in proportion to the population, which, at the last census, was under five millions. It must be remembered that this industry is carried on almost exclusively in Piedmont, while in Genoa^ Savoy, and the island of Sardinia it is scarcely, if at all, known. The mills are^ for the most part, to be found at or near the town of Arona, on Lake Maggiore. So far as I could learn, no industrial census of the kingdom is taken, and the number of mills, spindles^ looms, and employes was unknown to all those with whom I conversed on the subject. An extensive importer of cotton at Genoa was kind enough to promise me such statistics on these points as he could pro- cure among his customers, but they have not yet come to hand. The latest official publication relative to the import and export of cotton wool, yarns, and tissues, is the Movimento Commercials del 1855, (Commercial Movement for 1855,) published by the ministry of finance in 1857, which is preceded by some preliminary observations and com- parisons of results with those of former years. Of cotton it is said: " This class is one of the most important, by value, and the number of commercial contracts to which it gives rise, and of which the united values of the importations and exportations is 40,526^512 livres. 84 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. ($7,537,931,) with an increase of 6| per cent, on the last triennial mean, and of 3| per cent, on the import of the preceding year." The accompanying table, marked A, compiled from the official publication above cited, will show the quantity and value of the cotton wool imported into Sardinia, and the countries whence it came. It will be seen that more than half of it was derived from the United States, while there can be no doubt that by far the greater portion of that reported as coming from France, England, Belgium, &c., was also of the growth of this country. The table marked B, also from the same official source, exhibits the import, export, and consumption of cotton for the six years beginning with 1850, and ending with 1855. The exportation of the last year named showed an increase of 23 per cent, in the triennial mean, and of 30 per cent, when compared with the year 1854. Mr. Herbremont, the consul at Genoa, kindly furnished me with a statement of the quantities of cotton imported direct into that city from ports of the United States during the year 1856, and the three quarters of 1857, ending with the 30th September, by which it appears that the amount received in 1856 was 39,659 bales, which, at 450 pounds per bale, (a moderate estimate,) would amount to 17,844,300 pounds ; which, with the supplies derived from France, England, &c, would go to show a largely increased consumption, compared with the previous year. Up to September 30, 1857, the direct importation had reached 25,064 bales, which, at the average above assumed, would give 11,278,800 pounds of the raw material from the United States alone. There was, probably, a falling off in the receipts of this year in Sar- dinia, owing to the short crop of our country and the high prices, as was the case in other European countries. The export of raw cotton in the year 1855 was, altogether, 4,134,555 kilogrammes, or 9,096,021 pounds ; of which 3,722,780 kilogrammes, or 8,290,116 pounds, were sent into the Austrian empire. The quan- tity, therefore, left for consumption was 9,921,639 pounds. If the estimate of 40 pounds of the raw material per year, to each spindle, be applied to Sardinia, the result would be 260,000, which is probably near the truth. From all I could learn, the qualities of the yarns spun, tissues woven, wages paid, &c, resemble closely the same branches of the industry in Lombardy. The duty on cotton yarns imported is regulated according to the degree of fineness, it being the object of the government to protect its own spinners against competition in the home market. Thus, on un- bleached yarn below No. 20, it is 20 centimes, (about 3 T 7 o cents ;) if between No. 20 and No. 30, 30 centimes, (about 5 T 6 o cents ;) if between No. 33 and 45, 40 centimes, (about 7 T 4 o cents ;) if between 46 and 60, 50 centimes (about 11 T V cents) the kilogramme, of 2j pounds. On twisted yarns, up to No. 32, the duty is also 9fV cents the kilo- gramme, and in all other numbers, 70 centimes (about 13 cents) the kilogramme. On bleached or dyed yarns, of whatsoever number or quality, the duty is 80 centimes, about 15 cents, the kilogramme. The accompanying table, marked C, exhibits the imports of CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 85 cotton yarns, tissues, and other fabrics during the years named. It is also compiled from the ''Commercial Movement for 1855." It is anticipated by the merchants at Genoa that the importations of cotton into that port, direct from the United States, or other countries of its growth, will continue to increase, not only to meet a domestic demand, but also to supply, by means of the Sardinian railroad, the wants of the spinners in the Italian provinces of Austria, and in those of Tyrol and the Vorarlberg. American shipmasters, however, complain no little at the want of liberality on the part of the authorities, as regards the port regula- tions, and the monopolies, with their exorbitant charges, which they sanction. There are few or no direct exchange operations between Sardinia and the cotton marts of the United States. Payments are made by drafts on London or Paris. The chief articles of export are fruits, olive oil, silk, rice, wool, wine, grain, &c. 86 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. o ■o CO ^3 cb o ■« V V ^ s«a «3 £ r*S s>> la co n W i-sj i— ( * s - s» o B "*° =b "tt cSj V n IU s *« s &s <>. g Cft *» s s •6 rd s r o •« 5s w Gc •8 o fi =0 * a •e B u & •- p*a o rs ^ *^> Ss % sv e> VU o i^ ej s « B .< • ^ "*-» CO *£ Bs £ s> B * of ;- ■H.f CS-^CO— 4— 'CO— 'IChTO- ' OD f. rH^dOiorHCKMoffjin^roo TftoojcocN nvr^^- • ci cyi Cft C8 cu 3 © c^o ^ o» r4c oo o$ oi ro © ■3 £ is © o| > «* M - cm" O f~OCMOIHC»0f-O-;-J'OU5 CO a omffloMnoDTntcco uo a oxMonoon^^oiooioo © A eS noto(^-« h^xoi^mc H o vnnoiH i-i oj r- oio © S H « t^ ^H i-t CO r^ WI^ © s FH CO -H CO a o B cm men © CO © Tf © © Cft •< o T © CD UO © cc © © d CO CO © © CO »o © lO © U0 cj CO CO CM CO CM >o © © r~ ^ uo - o © ^t m © © n CO CO K} t- CM tj >> co~ cs" «f o Pi CO i K m r^ — i OJCTio) or- CO a> r- eft lO CI O) ^r 35 m d © U0 CO CM (71 © OJ ■x> T o uo CO CJi oo o> CO ©© © »o © o n "»H ^- rt t~ >. rt of s « o o C5» uo ■ 1^ i— Oi T c OCT a CO CO B) Irt o Cft >> CO, CM CO a m rt r- o S hnoon^t^!otroff)OtD 110 ., o VBiOtOI-afflOTCDO- 'TT <£ 0) •— -2 3 91.7 5,7 75,0 34,3 31,2 2.1 1,3 33, 6 i, a 86,3 46,0 CO co" £* &J CM C- CT H © co -* eo o^w^ooOF-mr^Mfl'- too (M T3 — - CMtocncocM ft-rr-ffii^cia © Qj u CO © A 4> 3 o n T ^* CM COCO CO en CO s c E r. — t TP CO CT o| > iff ^ eT u CTOincciCTC*^o^^oo _ ^OiCOOMfliOOlfl'htBOO D OJCMt^XCTCOCOt^O'^-Oi^O © eri si PlOOt^rt ^^<-«COCOt^f^>-0 © SS o* ^ n«o(MH ^h cm r* if: co CM h O O H .-( CO i— t ml-' © a o o Cft "' rt d CO OiO> © CO © 'J'© © t^ -* CM CO o © o ©CO © © »o © r- © r- Pi d CO CO© © CO TT 2 CO •no in© © t^ I-~ uo CO o o lOCM t£> ^H U0 © © a t- CO CO lOC^ o B >. co" oT o" o CO c a lO r--n CM CM CO ©— < t~ a> VOl i/S C- Cft T t- CO d — o CO O) ON© 31 t- •V ■«■ "0 CO C7>. CO Ol t- 2 ~CM -r © C n 00 CT ca U0© CM CO at M9 UO I- 2 es 3 O A ■ c .-' O 5 if "Si o.-Sc-£.t:g5SSm £ a fc t- z £■ r Oa fiC 7 H CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 87 B. A statement of the importation, exportation, and consumption of cotton- wool during the years 1850 to 1855 inclusive, derived jrom the "Com mercial Movement" of 1855; the weights being reduced to United States pounds. Tears. Importation. Exportation. Consumption. 1850 7,210,940 1851 19,019,772 20,313,018 21,772,428 17,490,041 19,017,660 9,172,073 6,722,418 8,067,110 6,723,121 9,096,021 9,845,939 1852 13,590,590 1853 14,365,318 1854 10,766,930 1855 9,923,639 c. A statement of the quantity of cotton yarns, tissues, and other fabrics imported into Sardinia during the years specified, taken from the " Commercial Movement" for 1855, and the weights reduced to those of the United States. Years from — Cotton yarns. Tissues of cot- ton, raw or bleached. T3 U to 03 xa to H a p. as "2 P Ofi SB > > a o -tj -w> o o o .a o 1844 to 1850 1851 218,238 174,220 189,455 175,182 163,238 183,588 298,712 661,602 602,261 562,120 590,253 735, 108 442, 504 714,459 786,279 820,653 859,883 949, 432 566,082 978,385 1,414,903 1,279,989 1,206.115 1,340,379 131,204 200,367 207,522 161,113 155,784 187,557 10,413 34,434 1852 33,944 1853 32,555 1854 39,197 1855 52,490 BELGIUM. There exists no official return of the number of spinning mills, spiudles, looms, &c, in the kingdom. An industrial census, very imperfect in execution, was taken in 1846, but little reliance seems to be placed in the information which it afforded ; besides which there has unquestionably been a marked progress in the manufacture of cotton since that date. M. Romberg, director of the division of industry of the ministry of the interior, in his Annual of Industry, Commerce and Banking in Belgium, the first volume of which was published last year, makes an approximative estimate, based on the 88 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. mean consumption of raw cotton at the time he wrote, 22,200,000 pounds, and in the supposition that each spindle consumed yearly forty-four pounds of the raw material, whereby he arrives at the con- clusion that their number is about 500,000. It has already been seen that cotton spinning was a branch of Belgian industry previous to the year 1801, when the first mule jenny was introduced at Ghent. The history of that and other departments of cotton manufacture in the country, down to the period of the breaking up of the first French empire, is to be traced in what has already been said on the same sub- jects under the head of France. As a portion of Holland, and since her independence of that kingdom, Belgium does not appear to have advanced so rapidly in this as she has in several other branches of in- dustry, although it has now attained to considerable importance, and is on the increase both as to the extent of consumption of raw mate- rial and the value of its products. The accompanying table, A, is a statement of the quantities of cotton wool imported during the six years, beginning with 1850 and ending with 1855, with the countries whence it came. The total value of the importations in 1855 was 13,541,941 francs, or 2,511,000 dollars. Of the 10,534,318 kilogrammes, or 23,175,500 pounds, the value was 11,418,341 francs, or 2,123,81 1 dollars ; and of the 1,784,964 kilogrammes, or 3,926,921 pounds in transit, it was 730,407 dollars. The quantities of cotton wool in transit during the years 1850 to 1855, inclusive, was as follows : 1850 2,580,538 pounds. 1851 4,140,697 " 1852 14,230,153 " 1853 8,044,399 " 1854 6,836,437 " 18f.S 3,926,921 " The entire importation of cotton yarn in 1855 amounted to 1,662,249 kilogrammes, or 3,656,948 pounds, of the value of 6,844,095 francs, or 1,273,002 dollars. Of this, 194,723 kilogrammes, or 428,391 pounds, of the value of 1,572,273 francs, or 292,443 dollars were con- sumed in the country, and 1,462,205 kilogrammes, or 3,216,851 pounds, of the value of 5,258,430 francs, or 1,015,268 dollars, was in transit. By far the greater portion of this yarn was neither twisted nor dyed, and of English production. Of the entire exportation for the year, which amounted to 1,784,608 kilogramme, or 3,926,127 pounds, of the value of 6,323,653 francs, or 1,236,199 dollars, the Belgian yarns amounted to but 323,403 kilo- grammes, or 711,487 pounds, of the value of 1,065,223 francs, or 198,131 dollars. Of these, 69,683 kilogrammes, or 153,303 pounds were not twisted or dyed, and 252,649 kilogrammes, or 555,828 pounds, of the value of 164,474 dollars, were twisted and dyed ; and 71 kilo- grammes, or 156 pounds, of the value of 6,745 francs, or 1,254 dollars, were of various descriptions of yarns above No. 140. Much the greater part of these yarns were sent into Prussia. M. Komberg, in the work above cited, says: " Belgium imports CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE 89 and exports cotton yarns to an amount nearly equal on each side ; (approximatively, 200,000 kilogrammes per year ;) but, as to their value, the balance leans very sensibly in favor of the importation. The yarns which we receive from abroad are of fine numbers, or twisted and dyed, while we send out above all ordinary qualities. One would not be far from the truth in estimating the total value of the yarns produced by our factories at 26,500,000 francs, or 4,929,000 dollars." He estimates the average value of the yarns produced at 2 francs 50 centimes, or 47 cents, the kilogramme, of 2\ pounds, which corresponds with the information obtained by me from several of the spinners at Ghent, which is the seat of that branch of industry. M. Romberg also adopts the opinion that fabrication quadruples the value of the raw material used, and considers that the value of Bel- gium cotton manufactures, on this hypothesis, would reach from 48,000,000 to 50,000,000 francs, equal to from 8,928,000 to 9,300,000 dollars. Of cotton tissues, the total import in 1855 was 774,504 kilo- grammes, or 1,703,909 pounds, of the value of 11,396,493 francs, or 2,101,800 dollars ; of which 240,731 kilos, or 529,608 pounds, of the value of 3,486,241 francs, or 648,441 dollars, were consumed, and 533,263 kilos, or 1,173,179 pounds, of the value of 7,903,459 francs, or 1,469,400 dollars, were in transit. The export of the same was 2,222,678 kilos, or 4,889,892 pounds, of the value of 18,882,183 francs, or 3,496,800 dollars ; of which 1,689,415 kilos, or 3,716,713 pounds, of the value of 10,978,734 francs, or 2,027,400 dollars, was of domestic production. I was told that the articles principally pro- duced were twills, pantaloon stuffs, and bleached or unbleached do- mestics. The above figures, except where credited to the annual of M. Bom- berg, are official, and derived from the statement of the commerce of Belgium for the year 1855, published in the year 1857, by the min- istry of finance. The statement for the year 1856 had not appeared up to the 1st of November last. At Antwerp, the custom-house authorities were kind enough to furnish the following statement of the import of cotton into that port between January 1 and October 31, 1857. The weights are reduced to our standard. For ecnsumption. Pounds. From Sweden 65,300 " England 5,305,573 " English East Indies 3,333,585 " United States 11,414,955 " Hayti ." 63,668 " Brazil 42,242 Total 20,225,323 90 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. In warehouse. Pounds. From the United States 1,098,592 In transit. From England 232,747 " United States 40,759 Total 273,506 The number of people employed in the different branches of the cotton manufacture is estimated by M. Romberg to be from 26,000 to 28,000. The census of 1855 gave the entire population of Belgium at 4,607,065. At Ghent, I visited the mills of Messrs. Lonsberg and Jules de Hemp- tieme; the first named was then running 41,000 spindles, which were soon to be increased to 70,000, consuming Louisiana cotton of the lower classifications which were converted into yarns No. 30 His im- portations were mostly direct. The loss on American cotton for spinning was ordinarily 10 per cent. ; on good qualities of Surat, about 15 per cent. ; on the inferior qualities, 25 per cent. The waste on American cotton is often mixed with East India cotton to make heavy, coarse yarns. Of Egyptian, Surinam, and Brazilian cotton the consumption is insignificant. Weaving is also carried on, the tissues produced being of ordinary low-priced qualities, particularly figured or fa connes patterns. Number of hands employed between 1,200 and 1,300 ; wages for ordinary hands : men, two francs, (37 cents ;) spinners, from three to four francs, (55 to 74 cents ;) weavers, from two francs to two and a half francs (37 to 47 cents) per day. For women the wages are 25 per cent. less. Mr. De Hemptieme consumes East India cotton exclusively, which he converts into yarns from No. 4 to No. 18, with a loss in the raw material of 20 per cent. Delivered at the mill, it costs about 6c? the pound, and he thinks that its consumption will rapidly increase in Belgium, as American has reached so high a price. The yarns spun are worth, on the average, two francs fifty centimes the kilogramme, (46^ cents for 21 pounds,) with a ready sale. The wages paid are, for men, from twelve to thirteen francs ($2 23 to $2 40) per week ; for boys from four to six francs, (74 cents to $1 12 ;) for women drawing frames, seven francs, ($1 30,) and on robinet frames, ten to thirteen francs ($1 86 to $2 42) per week. On all raw cotton imported into Belgium there is no duty whatever levied. On yarns, simple and undyed, from England, valued by law at 2/^ francs (46^ cents) the killogramme, the duty is 84yVV francs ($15 78) the 100 kilogrammes, or 221 pounds — if from other countries they are duty free. On twisted and dyed yarn the duty valuation is ten francs ($1 86) the kilogramme, and the duty 106 francs ($19 72) per CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 91 100 kilogrammes, or 221 pounds. On simple and double twist, un- bleached, bleached, or dyed, above No. 140 in fineness, the valuation is 95 francs ($17 67) the kilogramme, and the duty five francs (93 cents) per 100 kilogrammes, or 221 pounds. On cotton tissues, if unbleached or bleached, the valuation is 14 francs ($2 60) the kilogramme, and the duty 180 francs 20 centimes ($33 52) the 100 kilogrammes. On dyed and printed tissues, if of Prussian or English fabrication, the valuation is 15 francs ($2 79) the kilogramme, and the duty 325 francs ($60 45) the 100 kilogrammes ; if of French fabrication, the duty is 212 francs ($39 43) the 100 kilo- grammes. From all other countries these articles are free of duty. Cotton spinning, like all other branches of industry, is prosperous and advancing with the Belgians. Traverse the country in whatever direction he may, the traveller scarcely ever loses sight of the tall chimneys of the factories, and he is frequently at a loss whether to ad- mire most its evidences of high agricultural advancement or those of manufacturing activity which meet him at every turn. To James Gr. Clarke, esq., acting United States charge d'affaires at Brussels, and to M. Lambermont, of the ministry of finance, 1 was much indebted for the facilities and information they procured me. 92 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. ■i? g s e £ . o § o i— i m 00 Id"*"*" 1, s" © CM co t- © i i w © t- CM 1Q © ■* i i •*)< -& -4< CO . © ^t< T* I i(Ot-iO t- ■* TShmk) i l CD CO © © o g © -* o i i cm as ■— i © co g © co co i i «o t- &< TjTea i i co i— i OS . ■"*! ■* t— l i rt CO I © CO *« co t- co i i © oo i CO m K © CM .— 1 ■ 1 © i-H 1 to 00 § (N CM •* l It- 1 •o ~i s* I 1 -# © 1 CM © © © c i co © i t- -# © ■* 1 1 -<* CM I "e © cm -4> i i i-h © i m >o S t- lO CO I I OS CM t t- CO ~ CM CM i i t- I CO &1 of ! I r-T ! 1 1 i-H 1 CM i— 1 -* © ■ I OS CO CM 00 tOt- t- I I CM -# -9< CM . CO t— CM l I CO >— l 00 CM © "W CO t- © l i CO © CM CO lO g © CM —i i icif N © 00 g«i-IH 1 1 CO © CM CM -d 0) H o D, DO a 0> 1 1 ' ' as ' 2 ' a o O i ! i i -3 i 5 i o. a i : i i el i a> co as i , , £j i o ® .q i ' • i ._ a) Os E cS £ nd... rlands ia h East 1 State and V counti os s •! *a . S S-- 5iV as "O g p»> 00 CJ bE &S a- iJD CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 93 CONCLUSION. In conclusion, it may be said that it would be difficult to over- estimate the importance of cotton in the movement of the industry and commerce of the civilized world. Since the inventions of Arkwright and Watt in England, and Whitney in our own country, its manipu- lation and fabrication have become so comparatively easy and cheap, and its adaptation to supply the wants or the luxuries of man have proved to be so multifarious, that the question of an adequate supply of it to the growing demand has become one of the very highest im- portance, being exceeded in interest by that of the cereals alone. Its influence in the well-being of the masses by furnishing employment, sustenance, and cheap clothing, has long since been fully admitted ; and such has been the impetus afforded by it to the invention and im- provement of manufacturing machinery, that, in his work, before quoted, M. Audiganne remarks that, " It was certainly a curious sight, that, of the different aliments afforded by cotton to labor, and the services rendered to man at this day by this substance, of which the consumption has increased tenfold four or five times in less than sixty years. Cotton is manufactured among the greater part of the nations that figured at our side in the Palace of Industry. Nearly all had sent there samples of their fabrication — samples more or less nu- merous, more or less remarkable, but always worthy of attentive ex- amination. The degree of advancement of each people in the career of industry might he measured by its skill in the treatment of cotton," Illustrating its commercial and political influence as between the United States and Great Britain, Dr. Engel says of it: "That England and the United States are bound together by a single thread of cotton, which, weak and fragile as it may appear, is, nevertheless, stronger than an iron cable." No wonder, then, that the question of the adequate supply of this mighty and all-powerful agent soars at this day so tar above many which, at the beginning of the present century, far outranked it in their bearings upon the interests of civilized man ; and it may not, in this connexion, be deemed out of place to allude, briefly, to the his- tory of the supply in Great Britain, which has long been the principal receiver of the raw material, not only to meet her own growing de- mands, but to be distributed, to some extent, among those European countries which commercial supremacy has made tributary to her. Cotton planters and manufacturers are alike under great obligations to Mr. Joseph Rudworth Sharp, F. H. S., of London, for his valuable tables, published in September last, which exhibit in a clear and com- prehensive manner the gross amount of receipts per year, with quin- quennial averages, and the countries of production of the cotton wool received in the United Kingdom, &c, from the year 1821 up to 1855. These tables are admirably arranged, and must have cost an immense amount of labor to their compiler ; and with full acknowledgment of the very great aid they have been to me, the second of them is an- nexed hereto, as affording, in a clear and succinct form, the best in- formation attainable on that subject. 94 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. It will be seen from this statement how vast has been our own con- tribution of the raw material to Great Britain and Europe generally, and how much more reliable as a source of supply our cotton fields are than those of any or all other countries, as their production between 1851 and 1855 was five times that of the East Indies, and that while during that period all other countries exported to Great Britain 937,024,275 pounds, our own sent her 3,424,502,024 pounds, or more than three and a half times as much. In his first table, Mr. Sharp sets down the import from the United States into the United Kingdom, in 1856, at 780,040,016 pounds, that from the East Indies at 180,496,624 pounds, and the total from all other countries than the United States at 243,846,512 pounds, leaving a balance in our favor of 536,193,504 pounds, and also showing that in that year also we contributed more than three times as much to European supply than all other countries combined, while it must be remembered that our domestic consumption was advancing so rapidly as to require for its use 652,739 bales, which, estimated at 450 pounds each, were equal to 293,732,550, or more than the import into England that year from all other countries than our own. Mr. Samuel S. Littlefield, the editor of the New Orleans Price Current, than whom there is no better informed or more reliable authority on the subject of cotton and the cotton trade, in the Union, estimates the value of our crop of 1857 — 2,931,519 bales, after making all allowances for differences in their weights in different sections of the country, at an average of $50 per bale, making the total sum of $146,975,950. This gentleman has also furnished me with much in- teresting information, and several valuable suggestions. From what has been said under the various heads of this report, the following conclusions as to the influence of raw cotton among the na- tions who are our chief customers for it may be drawn : 1st. That it contributes vastly to their social well-being by furnish- ing labor, sustenance, and cheap and comfortable clothing to many thousands of their subjects or citizens. 2d. That to commerce it contributes immensely by furnishing a great variety of articles, by which its exchanges are in a considerable degree regulated, and large profits continually realized. That to capital it offers the means of profitable investment and returns, and aids greatly in its accumulation. 3d. That its political influence arises from the fact, that by opening and extending commercial relations, between different nations, it has created sympathies and ties of common interest, which makes the policy of peace and its attendant blessings one far more easy to main- tain than was once the case ; that it adds to the national wealth and resources, and by furnishing employment and support to many thou- sands who might otherwise be without cither, it makes contented those who would, through idleness or suffering, become burdens to the state. 4th. That the permanent and adequate supply of raw cotton thus becomes to Great Britain and continental Europe, a subject of vital importance, and indeed, of absolute necessity ; and that any consider- able dimunition in the crop of the United States, would cause the CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUKOPE, 95 gravest inconveniences, while the occurrence of any state of things whereby it should be entirely cut off, would be followed by social, commercial, and political revulsions, the effects of which can scarcely be imagined. With high consideration, I am, sir, your obedient servant, JOHN CLAIBORNE. Washington City, January 22, 1858. 9G CONSUMPTION OP COTTON IN EUROPE. «> o 00 rg g e •^ g O V oo h ■*> b ?> co >» S-I^IS o o s >'; o o '- o ts > so fe- es g e B ft, i — i g o ft, < oo oo 00 g g -c> co <» ~ >= s < 5,, C* - 4) SO IT g S 50 -Q g o ^ ^ ■*- 00 O b "^ 8 • 53 g tjj oo cs B Ct ■~i; o ^ o g a g a IS •~ - ^ o a >>j i*S o u ft >~ « *co ^ ft, §<-S^ O a ^1 o g o 33 | 5 so a B hi O w 5> OO ^ a, Ov C 8 g s o u *B g B oo • fe. 5 •2 ;., « ■s ^ =: ^i-O l< & en *- © c ~- IC i-C ^0 ■ r; cs g o o CO ^ a ca 'nee and decimal parts. ifl WN N NNCS | U3 01 .— tii Oi N H H lO H t- © t^ &T3 Oj co 2-1 ; and imal ts. en cc ■* io io ic oo © & 2 >-> o h Tf n « o m o CO O N (N [- od Cft © 03 to 3 a 03 3 03 .3 03 t-c ^ 03 rf o i— 1 I— 1 I— 1 rH CO 00 i—i t- i— l CM CO uo CO 03 . 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