b'\n\n\n\n\n\n\n" .,.\')\',\' \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\ni.;u \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0^ \n\n\n\nTHE \n\n\n\nCOTTAGES OF THE ALPS ; \n\n\n\nOR, \n\n\n\nITife anir ^aimm in ^toitorkit^. \n\n\n\nBY THE AUTHOR OF "PEASANT LIFE IN GERMANY." \n\n\n\n\nNEW YORK: \nCHARLES SCRIBKER, 124 GRAND STREET. \n\nMDCCOLX. """ \n\n\n\n3^ \n\n\n\n(^cy^\' &yf%c^ \n\n\n\n1^ \n\n\n\nEntebed according to Act of Congresa, in the year 1860, by \n\nCHARLES SCRIBNER, \n\nIn the Clerk\'s Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. \n\n\n\nW. H. TissoN, Stereotype!-. Geo. Russell & Co., Priuters. \n\n\n\n/ // \'f\'i \n\n\n\n/ov \n\n\n\nTO \n\nMADAM DORA D\'ISTRIA, \n\n"QtUs Vdnmt is 3nsmhtiJ, \n\nIN \n\nTESTIMONY OF THE FRIENDSHIP \no\xc2\xbb \n\nTHE AUTHOR. \n\n\n\nPREFACE \n\n\n\nWhile the independence of Switzerland, so often as- \nsailed, yet so long providentially maintained, appears to be \nagain threatened by the advances of a powerful neighbour, \nit is hoped that a picture of the social and political life of the \nSwiss people, from recent personal observation, may not be \nunacceptable to the English people who have evinced so \nwarm an interest in the events now passing in Southern \nEurope. \n\nThe name upon our dedicatory page may not be familiar \nto our readers ; and as we have placed it there for the pur- \npose of making known to them the life and works of a wo- \nman who is becoming a bright and shining light amid the \ndarkness of Eastern despotism, it is due that we say a few \nwords to prove her title to the slight tribute we thus pay \nher, and her claim to the attention of the Enghsh public* \n\nShe is an Eastern princess of the ancient and noble family \nof Ghika. Her ancestors originated in Macedonia, and \nemigrated centuries ago to WaUachia, where since 1658 \nthey have been the family from which the Hospodars have \nbeen mainly elected, under the Ottoman rule, and charac- \nterised always by bravery, intrepidity, and love of liberty. \n\nWaUachia is one of the Danubian principalities which \n\n* This work was first published in London, by Messrs. Sampson Low, Son & Co., \n47 Ludgate Hill. \n\nV \n\n\n\nVI PEEFACE. \n\nhave been so long the object of strife between Russia, \nAustria, and Turkey; and the Ghikas are the indomitable \nnative princes who have resisted them, and rebelled against \ntheir tyranny, unto death. \n\nAfter the first Russian occupation, Gregory Ghika the \nSeventh was the restorer of the throne of WaUachia, and \nthe resuscitator of their beloved Roumanic language and \nliterature. He instituted many reforms, relieved the country \nof a debt which had weighed upon it for a century, and \nformed a plan of national education. But neither Russia \nnor Austria .wished to see the Roumaini revive in their native \nstrength and glory, and contrived to plunge them anew into \nmisfortunes. \n\nFrom 1828 to 1834 the throne of Bukarest was vacant, \nand since that period only once have they been ruled by a \nnative prince. This was Alexander Ghika, brother of Gre- \ngory, equally noble and equally unfortunate. This brings \nus to the princess of our story, Helena Ghika, the niece of \nthese two princes, and daughter of Michael Ghika, a long \ntime " Minister of the Interior " to his brother. She was \nborn on the 22d of January, 1829, and during all her life in \nthe East saw her country struggling, resisting, and con- \nquered but never subdued. Before the revolution of 1842 \nher father had removed his family to Dresden to complete \ntheir education, and her cousin, Alexander Gregory Ghika, \nhas, in these latter days, commenced the struggle anew to \nthrow off the foreign yoke. One of her books is entitled \nthe " Heroes of Roumaini ;" and those who are familiar \nwith the history of her country wUl understand her enthu- \nfiiasm for liberty, and love of her people. \n\nBut it is owing to the resolution of her father that she \n\n\n\nPKEFACE. Vll \n\nshould not be nurtured in the supineness which characterises \nthe lives of Eastern ladies, that she received an education \nwhich would be considered masculine even in England and \nAmerica. In her childhood she had an English honne^ and \nat seven years of age was placed under the tutorship of the \nrenowned Professor Papadopulos, who not only taught her \nthe rich languages of the East, Greek, Latin, and French, \nbut imbued her with the spirit of the ancient philosophers \nand heroes, and initiated her into all the learning of the \nschools. \n\nHer father said, " All the progress of later years in lit- \nerature was owing to the blending of masculine intelligence \nand vigour with a proper development of feminine tact \nand perception. These are continually reacting on each \nother, so that every new subject is handled with a profound \ninvestigation and artistic detail, which leave no room for \nfallacy. Uneducated women in any country are the dupes \nof intriguers and the strongest enemies of progress, \nwhether in Church or State ; and in every country those \nwho oppose their elevation, by the use of the cant of \n" woman\'s rights " and " woman\'s sphere," and other terms \nof scorn and ridicule, know very well that while they can be \nkept floating in saloons, insipid and thoughtless, society will \nremain coriTipt, and the pillars of freedom be continually \ntottering." \n\n"We commend these sentiments of an Eastern prince to \nthe consideration of some of our fellow-countrymen ; and we \nhave not forgotten once hearing an American lady in a \nsaloon express the utmost contempt for another, whom she \nhad been invited to meet, and yet to whom she refused to \nbe introduced, because she despised a woman who made \n\n\n\nVlll PEEFACE. \n\nliterature her study, and was an authoress ! \xe2\x80\x94 or another, who \nsaid, " A woman who became public in any way was only \nworthy of contempt." To such ladies we need not present \nthe subject of our story. They will despise her for having \nvoluntarily renounced the " life of saloons," as she herself \nexpresses it, to devote herself to literature and the elFort \nby her pen to do something for the freedom of her beloved \ncountry. It will be useless for us to say to such paragons, \nhow beautiful is her daily life, how spotless her character, \nhow noble her enthusiasm, and "how severe her labour \xe2\x80\x94 she \nis by these very virtues public, and her name becoming \nfamiliar in every tongue. \n\nHer father not only insisted that she should be tho- \nroughly disciplined in mind, but in body ; and among vari- \nous other exercises, she Avas taught to swim, and became so \nexpert that in late years she saved the life of a lady in her \nfamily, the instructress of her sister, who fell into the water \nwhen no one was near to save her but herself. Music and \npainting were not neglected, nor an acquaintance with \ngeneral literature. She speaks and writes Russian, German, \nItalian, French, and English ; and at an exhibition of fine \narts in St. Petersburg, obtained the prize for two of her \npaintings. Her invocations of the Muses have not been \nless successful ; and that she is the only person who has \nascended the Monch^ one of the highest mountains in \nSwitzerland, proves that these graces are not incompatible \nwith energy and heroism. \n\nAt the age of twenty years she was married to a Russian \nprince, Koltzoff Massalsky, a descendant of the old Vikings \nof Moldavia, who entered Russia in the days of Vladimir \nin 988, and have never been especially popular with the \n\n\n\nPKEFACE. IX \n\nreigning dynasty. She resided six years at the Russian \nCourt, during which time her health failed, and the influ- \nence of a northern climate threatened to sink her into an \nearly grave. Physicians said she must leave or die. The \ninvasion of Wallachia by Russia in 1853 seemed to her a \ncrime, against which she ventured a remonstrance.* This \nmade her unpopular, and her passports were freely given to \nexile herself in whatever land she chose. She had no children \nto link her to the land of her adoption, and she went forth \nto wander, at least till her health should be restored, and it \nmay be for ever, unless oppression should cease, and the \npeace which can only be the consequence of justice on the \npart of the stranger, should be restored between the Em- \npire and the dependent province. \n\nWe heard of her everywhere in Switzerland as the quiet, \nunassuming lady, benevolent to the poor and kindly to \nall, acting the part of godmother to a peasant\'s child in a \ncottage, the beloved of children, sympathizmg with all \nsorrow, and yet living entirely apart from the gay world. \nThe first months of her exile were spent in Ostend, in 1855, \nand there she published her first book, " Monastic Life," \nwhich appeared at Brussels. The next year she resided in \nCanton Tessino, to enjoy the delicious climate on the borders \nof Lago Maggiore. In quick succession since this period \nhave appeared the volumes entitled severally, German, \nFrench, and Italian Switzerland \xe2\x80\x94 books which fill a void in \nliterature that, we cannot understand why, has been left so \nlong unfilled. But we are consoled with the thought that \n\n\n\n* The old Russian partj would have preferred to send her to Siberia with two other \nnoble ladies whose crimes were the same, and who are now exiles among the eternal \nsnows, but for some reason the Emperor did not comply with their demands. \n\n\n\nX PREFACE. \n\nno one could have done it better, and it may be well that \nthe task was left to her. Those who would know the his- \ntory, the heroes, the authors, the reformers, and philanthro- \npists of Switzerland, can find them portrayed nowhere else \nin their true light, indeed, nowhere else at all except in their \nown chronicles. \n\nIt struck us as a curious coincidence that a lady should \nhave come from the far east, and another from the far west, \nto meet in the little republic with the same object, the \nsame opinions, and the same enthusiastic love of liberty, \none being born subject of a despot and the other of a free \ngovernment. We did not succeed in obtaining her books \ntill our own was finished, and when we first heard of them \nfeared we might be upon common ground and one pen \nrendering the other unnecessary. But we foimd, without \nknowing it, that we began just where she had left off, and \nthe end of her books and the beginning of ours could not \nhave been better fitted together had it been done by design. \nHers are of the past and ours of the present, and Switzer- \nland must be viewed in both these relations in order to be \nunderstood. There are striking resemblances in thought, \nin facts, and in expression even, but which can only be the \nresult of similarity of views, as we had no knowledge of \neach other in any way till the works of both were finished. \n\nIn her preface to this work she says, " I have travelled \nthrough great kingdoms without finding anything to make \na noble feeling. There we see only such victories as spirit- \nual tyranny or worldly despotism can exercise over the \nhealthy imderstandings of men ; but you, fruitful plains of \nThurgovie, peaceful valleys of St. Gall, renowned mountains \nof Appenzell, how different the feelings which you caJl up ! \n\n\n\nPKEFACE. XI \n\nYou walk with a fearless step and lift an independent brow \nto heaven, while the people of the great nations around you \nstill bow their necks to the yoke. You are a free people, \nand the banner on which gUtters the federal star can with \njust pride wave near the Lion of free, happy England, and \nthe star-spangled banner of unconquerable America." \n\nFor these principles she and her books are interdicted in \nAustria and in Russia, though they come freely into France \nand Belgium, and also are allowed in Germany. The \nreviews and journals of the different countries notice her \naccording to their ideas of Hberty; her genius and her \ntalent are never gainsaid.* She forbade us to name her \ntitles in our dedication, and though we have given them \nhere in order to explain her life, we forget them always in \nour intercourse with her, for it is the woman only that we \nknow. She has won for herself a title more noble than ac- \ncident bestowed upon her, hke England\'s noble queen, who \nimmortalises the throne instead of allowing the throne to \nimmortalise her. \n\nWe have written of the people of Switzerland as we did \nof those of Germany, but we cannot say we have described \nthe "peasant life," because there is, legitimately speaking, \nno such thing in Smtzerland. According to the 4th article \nof their constitution, " All Swiss are equal before the law. \nThere are in Switzerland no subjects; none who enjoy privi- \nleges on account of birth, person, or family." Every peasant \nmay look forward to the highest honours in the gift of the \n\n\n\n* Besides contributing to journals in Paris, Athens, Italy, Switzerland, and Germany, \nshe has written in these last six years, " The Women of the East ;" " The Ionian Isles," \nunder the rule of Venice and British protection ; " Nationality of Roumanie ;" " The \nOrientals and the Papacy," &c., &c., which, our readers will see, leaves her little time \nfor saloons. \n\n\n\nXll PREFACE. \n\nrepublic, if he will make himself worthy of them, and it is \nthe occurrence of every day that the upper ranks are filled \nby accessions from the lower. \n\nIn Germany the mercantile class and mechanics are as far \nbelow the nobility as the peasantry are, and their life and \noccupations come as legitimately within our sphere. \n\nIn Switzerland the president and council, the senate \nand deputies, are also a part of the people, and thus is \ngiven us a still wider range, without departing from our \nsubject. \n\nHere the mountains are the castles, and nature constructs \nall the palaces. In the cities there is nothing princely, and \nnothing feudal except the ruins ; we shall therefore indulge \nourselves in saying whatever we think is new and interest- \ning, whether of high or low. But though a greater expe- \nrience and additional language have increased our facilities \nfor observation and study, we do not here, any more than \nthere, confine ourselves to what we can learn by personal \nefibrt. What others, with larger acquaintance and better \nopportunities, have learned, may be more valuable than any- \nthing w^e may collect ourselves, w^hatever may be our fitness \nor capacity. Of the reliability of these sources, we, of \ncourse, must be the judge. We cannot enlarge our book \nto unwieldy dimensions, or mar our pages with " authori- \nties " and " statistical proofs," which not ten persons among \nthose for whom we write would take the trouble to examine \nor care to know. \n\nWe are influenced by the " spirit of truth," and have no \ncause of malice or unkindness towards the country we have \nleft, or the one in which we are. \n\nWe could transcribe many letters, written voluntarily by \n\n\n\nPKEFACE. XIU \n\nGerman friends, assuring us that our representations have \nnot even the fault of exaggeration. \n\nBut we have since heard that many things are not Ger- \nman merely, but continental. In Switzerland we have re- \nlied wholly upon the people and their own chronicles. The \nSwiss are all chronicler s.^ and remarkably faithful in writing \nof themselves. We have found them always ready to open \ntheir stores for our researches, and never manifesting any \nfear of our pen. \n\n"We are particularly indebted to Dr. Prof. Osenbrugg, of \nZurich University, for a series of observations made by him- \nself in various tours in Switzerland to see the country and \nto write about the people. The descriptions of prisons, \ncourt trials, and various facts in jurisprudence, were fur- \nnished us by him, and we are only sorry that we cannot do \njustice to the original, in which law and poetry are blended \nin an unusually happy manner. Dr. Oesterler, of the same \ncity, and the librarian of the Biblioteke, were invaluable \nassistants in our studies. \n\nThe "American Minister Resident," at Berne, furnished \nus cordially with introductions and special passports, to en- \nable us to travel with profit and pleasure, and we are espe- \ncially indebted to the fii-m of "Dalp & Co." for any courtesy \nto facilitate us in our work. \n\nWhether we travelled alone, or in what sort of company, \nwe do not this time inform the public, as it does not essen- \ntially concern them, and we will not subject others to the \nreproach of the evil-minded and vulgar, but may say it is \nno such marvellous thing in these days to travel in any tole- \nrably civilized country. There is sufficient law and sufficient \nhonour among men for the protection of all who need it, and \n\n\n\nXIV PKEFACE. \n\nit may be something to the credit of Germans and Swiss \nthat we have never, in a single instance, during three years \namong them, required more than our own dignity could \nfurnish, and now, as before, can say we have had no expe- \nrience that has caused us to regret having come among \nthem. \n\nIn both books we have only aimed at giving a good \ngeneral idea of the people, l^ames and dates, localities and \nmasses of details, only clog the memory, and answer no \nuseful purpose in a book like this. Specialties may be in- \nteresting to those who have travelled extensively, but to \nthose who cannot identify each event and scene with the \nspot where it occurred, by personal observation, it is only \ntedious to attempt it. Geographies and guide-books are \nmade especially for those who would trace heights and dis- \ntances with exactness, and there are plenty of authors with \na different plan to fill the chasms we have left. \n\nThat the portraits of life and manners are faithful, we \nknow, and we have been gratified in reading the letters of \ntwo German travellers, editors of a St. Louis journal, who \nhad been twenty-five years in America, and returned to the \nfatherland to receive the same impressions as a stranger, \nfrom the lack of progress, and the sluggishness of all enter- \nprise, where despots rule, and the comparative sluggishness \nof every thiiig in the old, time-honored world. \n\nThat our suggestions will be of any use we cannot have \nthe vanity to hope, but there is just now a general awaken- \ning throughout the Continent that bids fair to result in pro- \nmoting the interest of the governed. The day of blind \nobedience is past, and a tremulous fear has seized the sove- \nreigns of every state, that unless they rule more wisely and \n\n\n\nPBEFAOE. XV \n\n\n\nbeneficently, they will soon cease to rule at all. Whether \nit be kingdom, or empire, or republic, we care not, provided \nJustice and Mercy sit on the throne and walk hand-in-hand \namong the people. \n\n\n\nCONTENTS \n\n\n\nCHAPTER I. \n\nPAGE \n\nFirst Impressions \xe2\x80\x94 ^People, past and present \xe2\x80\x94 Cars and Diligences \xe2\x80\x94 \nBerne and its Bears \xe2\x80\x94 ^Prisoners \xe2\x80\x94 ^Federal Palace \xe2\x80\x94 Promenades \n\xe2\x80\x94 ^Mountains, 21 \n\nCHAPTER II. \n\nTTRI. \n\nTravellers at Fluelen \xe2\x80\x94 Description of Villages \xe2\x80\x94 Houses \xe2\x80\x94 Elections \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 Griitli \xe2\x80\x94 Costumes \xe2\x80\x94 Calamities, 33 \n\nCHAPTER III. \n\nSCHWTTZ. \n\nOrigin of People \xe2\x80\x94 Brunnen \xe2\x80\x94 Diligence \xe2\x80\x94 Hotels \xe2\x80\x94 Costumes \xe2\x80\x94 Im- \nprovements \xe2\x80\x94 Einsiedeln \xe2\x80\x94 Pilgrims \xe2\x80\x94 Legends, . . . .48 \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2CHAPTER IV. \n\nTJNTERWALD. \n\nAlpine Pastures \xe2\x80\x94 Sennhutten \xe2\x80\x94 Cheese-making \xe2\x80\x94 Cows and their Bells \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 Alpine Festivals \xe2\x80\x94 Agriculture \xe2\x80\x94 Fetes, . . . . .63 \n\nCHAPTER V. \n\nLUCERNE. \n\nAncient Laws and Customs \xe2\x80\x94 City of Lucerne \xe2\x80\x94 Social Life\xe2\x80\x94 Ascent \n\nof the Righi \xe2\x80\x94 Ancient Procession \xe2\x80\x94 Weddings, . . . . 78 \n\n\n\nXVlll CONTENTS. \n\nCHAPTER VL \n\nZUG. PAGE \n\nPleasant Custom \xe2\x80\x94 Churchyard \xe2\x80\x94 First Battle for Freedom \xe2\x80\x94 Home \n\nSickness of Swiss Soldiers \xe2\x80\x94 ^Witchcraft \xe2\x80\x94 Forms of Punishment, 93 \n\nCHAPTER YII. \n\nTALAIS. \n\nCrossing the Furka \xe2\x80\x94 Rhone Glacier \xe2\x80\x94 Inn \xe2\x80\x94 Manufactures and Agri- \nculture \xe2\x80\x94 Love of Liberty \xe2\x80\x94 Cretinism, 104 \n\nCHAPTER VIIL \n\nVAUD. \n\nCheese Societies \xe2\x80\x94 Union Dairies \xe2\x80\x94 Wine-presses \xe2\x80\x94 Blacksmiths\' Shops \n\n\xe2\x80\x94 Lace-making \xe2\x80\x94 Vintage Festival of Vevay \xe2\x80\x94 Shepherd Songs, . 119 \n\nCHAPTER IX. \n\nGENEVA. \n\nCalvin \xe2\x80\x94 Jews \xe2\x80\x94 Lake Leman \xe2\x80\x94 Watch-making \xe2\x80\x94 Social Life\xe2\x80\x94 Swim- \nming Schools for Girls, 138 \n\nCHAPTER X. \n\nFRIBTTRG. \n\nruyere Cheese \xe2\x80\x94 Gessenay Shepherds \xe2\x80\x94 Cheese Aristocracy \xe2\x80\x94 Swiss \nSong\xe2\x80\x94 Influence of Amusements \xe2\x80\x94 Legends, .... 152 \n\nCHAPTER XL \n\nNEUCHATEL. \n\n^ueen Bertha \xe2\x80\x94 Trouble with Prussia \xe2\x80\x94 Military System \xe2\x80\x94 ^Watch- \n\n\n\nm \n\n\n\naking \xe2\x80\x94 Language, 16G \n\n\n\nCHAPTER XII. \n\nSOLEURE. \n\nPatricians \xe2\x80\x94 Material Interest\xe2\x80\x94 Journalism \xe2\x80\x94 Old Laws \xe2\x80\x94 Houses- \nFirst Agricultural Societies \xe2\x80\x94 Costumes, . . . . 180 \n\n\n\nCONTENTS. XIX \n\nCHAPTER XIII. \n\nZURICH. PAGH \n\nModern City \xe2\x80\x94 Old Laws \xe2\x80\x94 Silk Manufacture \xe2\x80\x94 Happy Homes \xe2\x80\x94 Frogs \n\nand Snails \xe2\x80\x94 Great Shooting Festival, 192 \n\nCHAPTER XIV. \n\nSCHAFFHAUSEN. \n\nOld City\xe2\x80\x94 Pride and Exclusiveuess \xe2\x80\x94 Jews \xe2\x80\x94 Costume \xe2\x80\x94 Rhinefall \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nDistinguished Men, 216 \n\nCHAPTER XV. \n\nBASLE. \n\nSocial Life \xe2\x80\x94 Opinions of Old Authors \xe2\x80\x94 Revolutions \xe2\x80\x94 Jews \xe2\x80\x94 Rob- \' \nbers \xe2\x80\x94 Looms\xe2\x80\x94 Celebrated Men, 229 \n\nCHAPTER XVI. \n\nST. GALL. \n\nMoney-making \xe2\x80\x94 ^Vices of Material Life \xe2\x80\x94 Embroideries \xe2\x80\x94 Swiss Mus- \nlins\xe2\x80\x94Cherry Water\xe2\x80\x94 City Life, 244 \n\nCHAPTER XVIL \n\nAPPENZELL. \n\nSpirit of Liberty \xe2\x80\x94 Murder by a Young Girl \xe2\x80\x94 Stickstube \xe2\x80\x94 Costume \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nAlps \xe2\x80\x94 Amusements, 257 \n\nCHAPTER XVIII. \n\nGLARUS. \n\n^cene in Street\xe2\x80\x94 Old Families \xe2\x80\x94 Zwinglius \xe2\x80\x94 Brotherhood \xe2\x80\x94 Schabzie- \nger Cheese \xe2\x80\x94 Alpine Tea \xe2\x80\x94 Calico \xe2\x80\x94 Incident on Railway \xe2\x80\x94 Elec- \ntions \xe2\x80\x94 Superstitions \xe2\x80\x94 Old Laws and Customs, . . . . 2*75 \n\nCHAPTER XIX. \n\nTHURGOVIE. \n\nTalk in a Diligence \xe2\x80\x94 Co-achman\'s Livery \xe2\x80\x94 Thurgovian Village \xe2\x80\x94 \nPost OflSce\xe2\x80\x94 Napoleon in Thurgovie\xe2\x80\x94 Custom-house \xe2\x80\x94 Schools \xe2\x80\x94 \nWeddings, 298 \n\n\n\nXX CONTENTS. \n\nCHAPTER XX. \n\nGRAUBUNDEN. PAGB \n\nSpliigen \xe2\x80\x94 Via Mala \xe2\x80\x94 Grey League \xe2\x80\x94 Vale of Disentis \xe2\x80\x94 Italian Shep- \nherd \xe2\x80\x94 Castasagna Chestnuts \xe2\x80\x94 Alpine Fete \xe2\x80\x94 Kiltgang \xe2\x80\x94 Enga- \ndine \xe2\x80\x94 Dances, 312 \n\nCHAPTER XXI. \n\nARGOVIE. \n\nRoman City \xe2\x80\x94 Convents \xe2\x80\x94 Quarrels \xe2\x80\x94 Jews \xe2\x80\x94 Dark Days of Old \xe2\x80\x94 \nSchools \xe2\x80\x94 Three Cantonal Divisions \xe2\x80\x94 Homeless People \xe2\x80\x94 Peasant \nDinner Festivals, 340 \n\nCHAPTER XXII. \n\nTESSINO. \n\ntalian Skies \xe2\x80\x94 Governments \xe2\x80\x94 Clergy \xe2\x80\x94 Education \xe2\x80\x94 Church Bells \xe2\x80\x94 \nPeasant Houses \xe2\x80\x94 Costumes \xe2\x80\x94 Fairs \xe2\x80\x94 Mines \xe2\x80\x94 Agricultural Fete \nDays \xe2\x80\x94 Marriages \xe2\x80\x94 Distinguished Men, 853 \n\nCHAPTER XXIII. \n\nBERNE. \n\n/ \\ Interlaken \xe2\x80\x94 ^Empress-Mother of Russia \xe2\x80\x94 Sunris e fro m the Grimsel \xe2\x80\x94 \nStory of Peter Zeibach \xe2\x80\x94 Old Customs \xe2\x80\x94 Bernese Boys \xe2\x80\x94 Fellen- \nberg \xe2\x80\x94 Country Life, 368 \n\ndHAPTER XXIV. \n\nCONCLUSION. \n\nAttachment of the People to their Government \xe2\x80\x94 ^Federal Assembly \n\xe2\x80\x94 Council of State \xe2\x80\x94 Federal Council \xe2\x80\x94 Tribunal\xe2\x80\x94 Constitution \xe2\x80\x94 \nOfficials\xe2\x80\x94 Postage \xe2\x80\x94 Nationality, 889 \n\nAppendix, 403 \n\n\n\n\nTHE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\n\n\nCHAPTER I. \n\nFIRST niPBESSIONS \xe2\x80\x94 ^PEOPLE, PAST AND PRESENT \xe2\x80\x94 CARS AND DILIGENCES- \nBERNE AND ITS BEARS \xe2\x80\x94 PRISONERS \xe2\x80\x94 FEDERAL PALACE \xe2\x80\x94 ^PROMENADES \xe2\x80\x94 ^MOUN- \nTAINS. \n\nWe entered Switzerland by its nortliern gate ; and as our \nGerman Guide-book says, "we have only crossed the border \nbefore we find ourselves in a different land, and among a diffe- \nrent people," it will be thought no sin for us to say the same. \n\nWe did not read the Guide-book till long after we had made \nour observations, but our philosophy was instantly awake, \nwondering why those who had the same origin, and have spoken \nalways the same language, should be found in paths diverging \nso widely in the journey through life. \n\nWe had thought that German Switzerland must be very \nmuch Uke Germany; but even the general features, as we glance \nsuperficially, offer scarcely any points of resemblance \xe2\x80\x94 ^in which \nremark we allude only to the people, their manners and cus- \ntoms ; for now, as before, to these we are obliged to confine our- \nselves. The mountains, however grand, and the valleys, how- \never lovely, must be passed by in silence ; not because our eyes \ndo not behold them, or our mind does not appreciate them, but \n\n21 \n\n\n\n22 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nbecause our "instructions" forbid us to dally among things \nbeautiful, or our fancy to revel among things luxurious. \n\nWe wish to know what kind of people inhabit this wonderful \nland ; and among the thousands \xe2\x80\x94 aye, hundreds of thousands \xe2\x80\x94 \nwho have crossed its glaciers, and gone wild in its gorges, how \nfew have thought it worth while to devote a page to the daily \nlife of the shepherd and rover, though the imagination has woven \na thousand tales of a people who do not really exist. \n\nYet the exclamations of surprise and discouragement are even \nmore abundant when we say we are bound for Switzerland, than \nwhen our destiny was Germany. An " exhausted subject," says \none. *\' Switzerland has been written to death," says another. \n" The people ! Indeed, if you are to give us a book about the \npeople, it will be more stupid still. They are no longer what \nthey were in the days of chivalry and romance, but have degene- \nrated into mercenary speculatists and plodding tillers of the soil. \nFrom being the most interesting, they have become the most \nhumdrum of human beings." \n\nTo this we could answer nothing when on our way, because \nwe knew nothing ; and now shall leave our readers to prove \nwhether those judge rightly who think a wilderness more plea- \nsant to the eye than a fruitful field, and cottages smiling in the \nmidst of plenty less idylish than the rude hut of the mountain. \n\nBecause they no longer wear the kilt and wield the sabre, it \nis not necessarily true that they have not inherited the proud \nspirit of their fathers ; and songs of peace may indicate hearts \nas noble as the fierce war-whoop or the gay tambour. \n\nThis charge of degeneracy is something we hear so often, that \nwe hope to prove its fallacy. The decision concerning the \nAmerican Indian has been, that he could not be civilized ; that \nhe preferred the tomahawk and scalping-knife. the wigwam and \n\n\n\nFIEST IMPRESSIONS. 23 \n\nthe skins of beasts, to the arts and comforts of Christian peo- \nple. Yet had whole nations of Indians voluntarily followed \nthe plough and sowed the field, or in the course of centuries \nyielded to the subduing power of progress and settled in ham- \nlets and in \'\'white cottages with green blinds" \xe2\x80\x94 preferring cities \nand the hum of factories, what would have been said of them \nthen ? Exactly what people say of the descendants of Tell and \nthe brave men who defended with him their birthright. \n\nThat foes without and traitors within, so long obliged them to \nwear the warrior\'s garb, and to be ever on the watch for those \nwho left no defile of their mountains free from the tramp of \nconquering hosts, and allowed no valley to escape the ravages \nof the ruthless destroyer, has been the reason they have not \ntaken a higher stand among the nations, and that their federal \nescutcheon has not earlier become a bright and shining light, \nshedding its beams over a continent. It is scarcely ten years \nsince they were permitted to lay aside their armour. They have \nbeen the prey of every emperor, prince, and potentate from pole \nto pole and sea to sea ;* and to us it is ever marvellous, that in \nthe days when their land was indeed a wilderness, and the most \nfruitful field almost a desert, they were able to march triumphant \nthrough disciplined legions, thronging from every point of the \ncompass to defend their liberties and preserve their rights, \nremaining always a peculiar people, which no power could crush \nand no corruption entirely destroy. They have lived and fought \ntill the nations are weary and give up the strife. They have at \nlength agreed to let them alone, and, though the fact is but Uttle \nknown beyond their limits, it is yet true, that their present \nGovernment exhibits not less the wisdom which proves the \n\n\xe2\x99\xa6 In this general assertion, England is not included ; and we migiit as well add, that \nin all cases where the term European is used, we refer only to Continental people. \n\n\n\n24 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nsuperiority of their statesmen and legislators, than their success \nin battle proved the courage of their warriors and the skill of \ntheir generals. \n\nSwitzerland is the object of the envy, and malice, and vitupe- \nration of the despotisms which surround her. It is the policy, \nand it is the practice, of princes and their courtiers, to cause to \nbe published contmually the most slanderous falsehoods con- \ncerning the little republic, its government, its laws, and its \npeople.* \n\nYet, in the heart of Europe, bounded on every side by em- \npires and kingdoms, trying to annihilate them by force or seduce \nthem by bribery, with emissaries, either open or disguised, for \ncenturies throwing confusion into their councils, endeavouring to \nbhnd or corrupt them, they have survived and retained enough \nof strength and right principle to form a government, which, if \nnot perfect, is in advance of most, and, in some respects, superior \nto all. God grant that no blow from without, and the wiles of \nno serpent within, may again endanger its foundations. \n\nWe came first upon Swiss soil in Basel, but cannot stop here \nto tell its glories \xe2\x80\x94 the grand old city that was the seat of coun- \ncils, and entertained whole retinues of popes, and bishops, and \ncardinals, emperors, kings, and princes, with wise men from the \nEast, long before America had a name. We will come again \nand assign it due place and importance among its sisters of the \nConfederacy. We must first give a few general impressions as we \npass along. \n\nIt had been told us that the Swiss post allowed just forty \npounds of baggage, and we therefore took just forty pounds, in \n\n* We find this asserted by a German author, Dr. Kolb, of Speyer, who has lately pub- \nlished in Zurich a \xe2\x80\xa2work on the political condition of Switzerland, including its financial, \nmilitary, and commercial relations. \n\n\n\nFIRST IMPRESSIONS. 25 \n\norder to avoid all trouble of weights and measures, which we \nthus succeeded in doing, except on railways, where they allow \nnone. But so much baggage every person may have without \nfear of the merciless Custom-house inspector ; and when it was \nset down on the platform in Basel dejiot, a man placed his hand \nrespectfully upon it, and asked, " What have you in this ?" \n" The usual articles of a lady\'s wardrobe/\' *\' IN\'othing else ?" \n" Nothing." Upon which he respectfully bowed and departed. \nThis is a pleasant beginning, and puts us in good humour, for \nnothing yet ever put us so thoroughly out, as to see our dresses \nand muslins, on which the laundress had left her best impression, \noverturned and crumpled by the rude assaults of an employe. \nNothing ever obliterates so entirely every trace of more than one \nChristian virtue from our bosom as this barbarous infringement \nof the most sacred of human rights. That a lady cannot carry \na comb and brush, and morning-dress, a few \n\n" Pills, powders, patches, billet-doux," \n\nwithout having them submitted to the scrutiny of some solemn \nman of ofiice, is indeed an evidence in any country that civiliza- \ntion has not done its perfect work. We are at last where one \nmay have a little sanctum which profane eyes and hands cannot \ninvade, and we must experience some very serious wrong to blot \nout the influence of this one incident on entering a strange land. \nSo much for " first impressions " and " httle things." \n\nWe are struck not the less pleasantly with these cars, con- \nstructed after the American model, with rows of seats on each \nside of a long carriage, the cushions of grey cloth, and the wood \npainted " curly-maple," all neat as wax. Here is a Mttle room \nfor first-dass passengers at the end, also hke those in every \n\n2 \n\n\n\n20 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nAmerican railway carriage, but here an extra price is demanded \nfor those who occupy them. Not opening at the side, they are \nthe thoroughfare through which every one must pass to reach \nplaces of lower rank, and offer therefore no privacy and no \nspecial advantage. But in a country so thronged with travellers \nof high and low degree, it would cause great complaint not to \nhave some place set apart to give a nominal distinction and \nimportance to those who claim to be of a superior order. We \ntook a seat once among those exclusives, and found it the most \nuncomfortable we ever had in a railway carriage. It was a hot, \ndusty day, and the crowd was overwhelming. The room being \nsmall, one has continually the unpleasant sensation of short rapid \ndrafts from constantly opened doors and always open windows. \nTwo or three persons who could not find seats in the second class, \ntook them without scruple in the first, the conductor making no \nobjections and exacting no more money for the privilege. Those \nwho had paid the extra price were thus incommoded, and had \nonly the consolation of saying and exhibiting that they were \nfirst-class passengers, which we have often noticed was sufficient \nfor some people, whatever the annoyance they might expe- \nrience. \n\nWhat a difference, too, in the officials, as they perform their \nseveral duties. Here is not the solemn look and heavy step of \none who says in every motion: I am an officer of the Emperor \nor King, or Grand Duke, as may be, with a cumber- \nsome uniform to substantiate the assertion, all which made \nthem, though uniformly courteous, as uniformly terrible. The \nfirst of this class whom we notice, answers to our idea of one \nwho in boyhood sang Swiss songs on the mountains. We ask \nhim a question for no other purpose than to see if his manners \nwill correspond with his round red cheeks and merry black eyes. \n\n\n\nFIRST IMPRESSIONS. 27 \n\nOh, yes; lie has no idea that he is of any particular consequence, \nonly that he takes all the tickets and keeps the accounts cor- \nrectly. Now and then, as we pass through the villages, a nice \nlooking peasant woman takes her seat by our side, and an ever \nvarying costume is presented to our eyes, and also a respectable \nand self-respecting deportment, evidently the result of a con- \nsciousness that they are no man\'s servants. A German profes- \nsor remarks that you see the same in the animals ; the cows \nhold up their heads and look around with an air that shows \ntheir appreciation also of free atmosphere. Their heads are not \noppressed with a yoke when they are in harness, but the burden \ncomes upon their shoulders. That this is in any way the con- \nsequence of free institutions, we do not intend to imply ; or that \ncows wear a yoke upon their heads in Germany, because they \nlive under the government of a grand-duke ; yet we could not \nhelp wondering how it should happen, that on one side of a \nsmall river it should be the custom for the animals to draw all \nweights in this way, and that on the other side of the same \nriver, a few miles further south, they should be treated in an \nentirely different manner. We cannot stop here to speculate \nupon the matter, and pass on till we arrive at the capital of this \nfamous republic, the seat of the Federal Government, the rally- \ning point of the twenty-two independent States. \n\nIt strikes us as a pleasant city, with its quaint streets, built in \narcades, its curious old towers, its ramparts converted into \npromenades, and its many new streets and buildings, sufficiently \nmodern for beauty and comfort, without making a repulsive con- \ntrast with what is old. There is something about it which \ngives it an identity; with the individual features which every \ncity must have, as a whole, it is unlike every other. \n\nIts name of Berne was originally Bdren, in German signifying \n\n\n\n28 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nbears; and from the reason, say the chronicles, that Berthold \nY., Duke of Zaeringen, its founder, slew on the spot one of these \nanimals, and caused the first houses to be built of the oaks of \nthe forest which then clothed the ground. This was in 1191. \nWhether history or legend, it is rooted very strongly in the \nfaith of the people, and they have ever awarded peculiar honours \nto their redoubtable namesakes. On their municipal escutcheon \nthe prhicipal figure is a bear. High on each side of one of the \nprincipal gates are crouched two of these huge creatures cut in \ngranite, with attitude and expression to make one realize all their \nfierceness ; yet, grim though they are, one would not like to \nmiss their famiUar faces. In various other positions, on towers \nand pedestals, they are placed conspicuous ; but more interesting \nstill are the living ones, which have appropriated to their use \nspacious apartments in the most aristocratic quarters of the \ncity. For many centuries, if not from the foundation of the \nwalls, the people have entertained a certain number ; and when \nin 1833 the race became extinct, new specimens were imported \nfrom Paris and St. Petersburg, and the last year two were born \nunto them, which was occasion for great rejoicing. Their sleep- \ning rooms are caves in the side of a hill, walled and well car- \npeted with straw; their promenade and reception room, a deep \nsquare pit with walls and floor of granite, and bath rooms to \ncorrespond. The legacy of a wealthy citizen has secured them \nindependence, and if they have any appreciation of the regard \nand admiration of their fellow-burghers, they must feel very rich. \nHow many of my readers know that the town of Newbern, \nin North Carolina, was settled by a colony from this old city of \nbears, two hundred havmg emigrated thither in 1110, under \nChristopher Graffenried ? but whether they transplanted a \nmenagerie we do not know. \n\n\n\nFIRST IMPEESSIONS. 29 \n\nWe walk through the streets and meet a procession of strange, \ncoarse-looking men in uniform, and learn that they are criminals, \nwho, instead of being locked in dungeons, are made to toil. We \nhave read that not fifty years ago they were marched through \nthe streets in chains, to be the scorn of the populace. How \ngreat an improvement has taken place in their condition I Those \nwho perform agricultural labour are accompanied to the field by \na man, who carries a gun and sword. They are not allowed to \nspeak to each other, and no one is allowed to speak to them. In \nthe prison itself are workshops of every description, and each one \nis permitted to pursue the trade to which he has been accustomed, \nor to learn any he may choose, if he has none. If, in this way, \none earns more than the expense of supporting him in the prison, \nhalf the sum is laid aside and given him when his term expires, so \nthat many on leaving have no insignificant fund to enable them \nto commence some honourable calling in the world. Farmers in \nthe neighbourhood often employ them as day labourers, paying \nthem stipulated wages. We see them also employed in various \noccupations about the city, accompanied by an overseer, and in \nthe coarse striped dress that makes it easy to identify them. \n\nThe prison discipline is thoroughly Christian and reformatory, \nand the institution so nearly self-supporting, that the average \ncost of each person does not exceed thirty-five dollars a year. \nAmong those who think the old times better than the new, we \ncertainly should not find the thieves and robbers of this estab- \nlishment, to which the whole canton furnishes some five or six \nhundred. We cannot conceive how a prison can be conducted \non better principles or come any nearer to perfection in its ar- \nrangements. We notice it particularly, as in some of the other \ncantons we are able to contrast the present with the past, in \nreference to the treatment of fallen humanity. \n\n\n\n30 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nWe inquire concerning the theatre, and learn that it is not a \nGovernment institution, but managed by a company, who keep \nit open only in the winter ; from which we conclude, that the \npeople cannot afford to amuse themselves, or that amusement is \nnot so absolutely necessary to their existence as in some coun- \ntries we have seen. \n\nThey have demolished the castles and built a federal palace. \nOur exclamation on beholding it is, " How exactly it corres- \nponds with our idea of the little republic !" It is not magnificent \nor imposing, but there is a modest grandeur in its whole, and a \nmodest beauty in its details, that comport with the pretensions \nof the people, though there could have been no parsimony in \nthe council that voted about fom\' hundred and thirty thousand dol- \nlars for such a purpose. It is more remarkable, perhaps, that the \narchitect did not spend all the money they allowed him ; though \nhe answered their expectations in the results he produced. We \nwalked through the rooms one afternoon just after the honourable \nmembers had ended their debates for the day ; and supposing they \nhad all departed, we took a seat in the presidential chair, in order \nto have a sense of the feelings of the President of the Swiss Re- \npublic. Our cicerone said, if we sat there, we must make a \nspeech, upon which we replied, \'\' Oh, yes ;" and had just risen \nfor that purpose, when the honourable gentleman whose particu- \nlar office it was to harangue his " fellow citizens" from that desk, \nwalked in. He bowed respectfully to one whom he must have \nconsidered an unscrupulous usurper, and we bowed as deferentially \nas possible, and resigned. \n\nBut we must not linger too long even in repubhcan palaces. \n\nA shady promenade attracts our attention, and following a \nnarrow pathway we come upon a group of little girls, and learn \nthat they belong to the orphan school near by. We sit down \n\n\n\nFIRST IMPRESSIONS. 31 \n\non a bench to watch them in their play. They are pinning \nleaves together with stems, and making wreaths and scarfs with \nwhich to adorn themselves, and then \'\'go a visitmg," as we have \nseen little girls do a thousand times. The conversation and \nthe sports of children are the same in all languages and all \nlands. \n\nWe ascend an eminence, and find ourselves on what were m the \nolden times the ramparts for the defence of the town. Now it is \na playground for children, and their merry voices make the same \nglad music, though it is not in one, but many strange tongues. We \nsit down on the roots of a tree, and a little boy not four years \nold looks a moment in our face, and without any more formal \nintroduction cUmbs up and throws his arms around our neck. \nWe teach him how to use his wooden shovel in the sand ; his \ntiny sister asks us to rock the cradle of her doll, and soon we \nare surrounded by a little train of wagons and hobbyhorses w4th \ntheir owners in amusing rivalry for our attention. How truth- \nful are children ! How sad that they must be trained to all the \ndeceptions of false politeness and the cold unchristian charities \nof the world I \n\nWe extend our walk, and without having been told, or \nthought, that from here could be seen the mountains, we look \nround indifferently, till by accident our eyes wander in a new \ndirection, and rest on the distant horizon. " What are they ?" \nwas our first exclamation. The mountains? Yes, the moun- \ntains I The clouds have suddenly broken and lifted their dark \ncurtains ; the setting sun is tinging their tops with the soft tints \nof grey and purple, so that every line is traced as with a pencil \nagainst the sky, reflecting the snowy masses below in more bril- \nliant whiteness. From no pen or pencil had we received the \nmost shadowy conception of their grandeur. No pen or pencil \n\n\n\n32 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ncan define the feeling, wliicli seemed to fall like a weight upon \nour spirit as we gazed. \n\nTheir enchantment is like that of a beautiful face, changmg \nwith every varying emotion. Every hue of sunshine and sha- \ndow, every passing cloud, the seasons, morning, noon, and even- \ning, the moon, the stars, every phase of the atmosphere \xe2\x80\x94 all \nthese are influences which give them, every moment, a new \ncharm. \n\nOne might* expect to tire of those everlasting mountains, for \never and for ever there ; but they are never the same, even from \nthe same point of observation. They are Uke a kaleidoscope \n\xe2\x96\xa0v\\ith an endless succession of changes, a rainbow with its arch \nof gold and pm\'ple and scarlet spread out into immensity. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER II. \n\n\n\nURI. \n\n\n\nTRAVELLERS AT FLUELEN \xe2\x80\x94 DESCRIPTION OF VILLAGES \xe2\x80\x94 HOUSES \xe2\x80\x94 ELECTIONS \xe2\x80\x94 \nGRUTLI\xe2\x80\x94 C OSTUMES\xe2\x80\x94 CALAMITIES. \n\n\n\nIf our plan were to speak of the different cantons in the \norder of their rank, we should commence with Zurich, as to her \nis awarded the precedence in all things. But to suit our own \nconvenience, we begin with those whose names are most familiar, \nand with which theu\' history was first developed. \n\nFrom the steamer we stepped upon the wharf at Fluelen, \nwhich is the port through which all must pass on their way over \nthe St. Gotthard ; and the arrival of every diligence presents in \nthe great street fronting the water the usual scene of porters, \nvalets, and coachmen \xe2\x80\x94 travellers who have passed in the night, \nwhere was to be seen the grandest scenery in the world, and \nwill go home to say \'\'they have been in Switzerland" \xe2\x80\x94 troops \nof young men with their long Alpine stocks, wreaths of ever- \ngreen on their hats, and their pockets full of " specimens ;" and \nladies in the height of the fashion, with so many grievances that \none cannot help wondering why they do not travel in cavalcade, \n\n2* 88 \n\n\n\n34 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nbringing their own mirrors, dressing-maids, and tapestry car- \npets. They are on their way to Ragatz, to Zurich, or the \nKhigi, and in half an hour the village is as quiet as if they had \nnever fluttered and whirled in our midst. \n\nWhen the boat arrives, it is the same, with a little variation ; \nthey wish a coach to Altdorf, to Burglen and Attinghausen ; \nand, with " Murray " in their hands, set off to see where Tell \nwas born, and the men of Grlitli lived, and then hurry on to \nComo and Lago Maggiore, and before the snow is on the hills \nare back to Paris. They have travelled ! Our mission com- \npels us to stop by the way, and our astonishment is to see how \nlittle influence all these throngs from the great world seem to \nhave on the people. \n\nWe set out alone one morning to explore the village. It is \nnot very large, and only a few rods from the largest and very \ncomfortable hotel led us into a narrow, dingy street, where the \nhouses looked as old as their history. Sitting on a stone we \nsaw a little girl very busily engaged with some netting, and, \nin accordance with our rule and inclination, we stopped to ask \nher a question. She was at first very shy and not disposed to \nbe communicative, but, convinced of our friendliness, she became \nalso friendly, and we asked her to walk with us a little way up \nthe hill. She readily assented, her fingers never pausing an \ninstant, however quickly she talked or ran. Before we had \ngone very far, all constraint had vanished between us, and she \nwas henceforth our companion in the churchyard and by the \nlake, in garden and on the hillside, wherever we wished to stroll. \nWe thought her at first about nine or ten years old, but when \nwe asked her, she said she was sixteen ; yet there was no \ndeformity about her, and her face was bright and intelligent. \n\nWe went to the school-house, which was in the upper room \n\n\n\nuKi. 35 \n\nof a dwelKng, and reached by a dark, miserable stairway. The \nvillage priest was also the village schoolmaster, which is often \nthe case in Catholic Switzerland. Reading and writing, with \na little of arithmetic, was the extent of the pupils\' acquirements, \nbut the penmanship was very beautiful, and, so far as their \nknowledge extended, it was thorough. On examining a beauti- \nful writing-book, we asked our little companion if she could \nwrite as well, and she said, " jS^o, not quite, but she could read \nand write, and so could all the children in the village." \n\nIn the churchyard we saw a large iron kettle filled with \nwater, hanging by a pole, and a brush of dry boughs resting on \nthe surface. \'\'What is it for?" She answered by taking it \nup and sprinkhng some graves with water. It was "holy \nwater" and she crossed herself by dipping her finger therein \nand drawing it across her forehead. \n\nThe people are wholly Catholic, and date then* conversion to \nChristianity so far back as 630, by Bishop Martin, who is the \npatron saint of the canton. They have still no city, only four \nvillages and fifteen parishes. For a long time they were in \nsome measure subject to the Pope, but since the sixteenth cen- \ntury they have chosen their own pastors, and paid them as they \npleased. In every village there is a school in winter, but in \nsummer the youth are so scattered among the mountains that it \nis not possible to continue them. \n\nThe people of Uri are decidedly a pastoral people, and their \nhabits in conformity to their life. With the exception of a few \nin the larger villages, the houses are built after the model of \nthose described in the earliest allusions to their history, and \nthough they look very pretty in pictures, have not this virtue in \nreality. In front are the dates of the year in which they were \nbuilt, and while looking so fragile as if they could not endure \n\n\n\n36 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthe shocks of twenty years of time and tempest, they have \nalready stood several centuries. \n\nThe roofs are of long shingles placed upon laths, with a board \nlying crosswise, on which are set heavy stones, to prevent them \nfrom being scattered to the four winds, as they certainly would \nbe by the first gale from the north. The first story upon the \nground floor is devoted to wood, wagons and trumpery, and the \nsecond story is entered by stairs outside. This is a very common \nconstruction of peasant houses everywhere in Switzerland. The \nsitting-room and sleeping-room for the elders of the family are \nover the basement in front, and adjoining them behind is the \nkitchen, which reaches to the roof. A dark stairway leads to \nthe chambers, which correspond to the front rooms below. It \nlooks very dismal without and within. The great stove is some- \ntimes of potter\'s ware and sometimes of bricks. The rude \nbenches, upon which the family gather round the fire in winter \nevenings, are entirely of home manufacture, and so are generally \nthe table and the chest of drawers, which are everywhere the \naccompaniments. Under the benches are long rows of old and \nnew shoes, and over the stove, on strings or poles, long rows of \nclothes and stockings "hanging up to dry." A clock, which \nwe recognize to have originated in the Black Forest, is fastened \nto the wall, and the pendulum swings to and fro laden with \ndust, while the wheels are sometimes trammeled by the work \nof spiders, who are free to go out and in, and spread over all \ntheir warp and woof. Under this is perhaps the picture of a \ndove, as emblem of the Holy Spirit, and here and there on the \nwalls representations from the Bible and Swiss history. Over \nthe table is a wooden chain, to which in the evening is suspended \na tallow candle, and in the corner a crucifix, under which are \namulets and gifts they have received in their pilgrimages to \n\n\n\nuRi. 37 \n\ncloisters and consecrated spots. There will be a bed in each \nroom, and one or two cradles, perhaps a loom, and apparatus \nfor all manner of useful purposes hanging on nails to the walls. \nOver the bed, lying on two pegs, is a gun, and since the French \ninvasion in 1*199 they have added to this a Russian sword and a \nFrench sabre ; and it was in this war that they showed they \nhad not forgotten the use of those things ; and the misery into \nwhich they were plunged in consequence of the invasion, gave \nan opportunity of proving that sterling virtues were still the \ntenants of their bosoms. \n\nIn front of almost every house is to be seen a trough, hewn \nout of a tree, for water, mth a rude carving of a saint or hero \nstanding guard. \n\nAltdorf was nearly destroyed by the French, who set it on \nfire in 1*199, and therefore has a new look, the houses being \nstone and covered with tiles. Twice before it has experienced a \nsimilar disaster, and therefore has little of the ancient appear- \nance of the other villages. The two principal wells are orna- \nmented with statues of Tell and a former burgomaster ; that of \nTell standing where he stood to bend his bow, and the other \nwhere the boy was placed with the apple on his head. \n\nIn the village of Burglen, the birthplace of Tell, and half a \nmile distant from Altdorf, is also a chapel, on the walls of which \nare painted the principal scenes of his life. The Reuss passes \nby, in which he was drowned whilst attempting to save a child \nwho had fallen into the stream. In life and death he remained \na hero. In 1388 was consecrated the chapel, which stands by \nthe sea, on the spot where he jumped on shore from the boat. \nA procession from all the neighbouring cantons assembled on \nthe Wednesday after Ascension, and heard mass in the chapel. \nAt this first consecration 114 persons were present who had \n\n\n\n38 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nknown Tell in his life. A similar procession takes place every \nyear now, on the first Sunday after Ascension, when a steamer \nsets out with the escutcheon of the four forest cantons painted \non its side, the broad banner of the Confederacy waving from a \ntall flagstaff in the centre, and the colours of several cantons \nin gay contrast on different parts of the deck. Leaving Lucerne \nin the morning, and stopping at all the villages on its way to \ncollect the devotees, who appear in the brightest of holiday cos- \ntume, it looks like a flower-garden dancing on the waters, or \nsome fairy land, with " fairylike music," paying a visit to our \nhumdrum world. Many smaller boats are in its train, and the \nlittle skiffs, with their parti-coloured awnings, and paddles of all \nthe hues of the rainbow, are not the less like elfin sprites as they \nskip so merrily along. \n\nThe fete is a religious one, as are all in Catholic Switzerland, \nand the ceremonies at the chapel are those usual in the Catholic \nChurch. The capuchins in their long brown mantles, and the \nmonks in their cowls, bishops in gold and scarlet, and priests in \ntheir sable robes, are not the least conspicuous among the \nstrange crowd. \n\nThey stop at the Grutli and the Tellenplatte, and then pro- \nceed to Fluelen, where they disembark, and form a grand proces- \nsion to Altdorf, where the whole village is in waiting. Banners \nand streamers with mottoes are waving from the housetops, the \nstreets are arched with wreaths and flowers, and young men and \nmaidens stand here and there in groups, singing hymns and patri- \notic songs. It is thus they commemorate the past and enjoy the \npresent. Modern events have taken no root in their soil or in \ntheir hearts. And, indeed, one may call the Telknjplatte the \nMecca of the whole civilized world, and a proof that deeds of \nvirtuous heroism find a response in every human heart. \n\n\n\nUEi. 39 \n\nDuring the last year the Griitli has been purchased by the \ncontribution of a mite from all the school-children of Switzer- \nland. The sum required was nearly eleven thousand dollars ; \nbut with scarcely any effort it amounts to more than half as \nmuch again, because the parents, fearing a deficiency, aided \nin the work. The sums collected from the children having \nbeen kept separate, it is found they alone have effected the \npurchase, and each little patriot is to receive a picture of the \nthree men in the attitude of making the solemn oath on the spot. \nThis same year Mount Yernon has become the common property \nof the country of which Washington w^as the father, evincing \nthat republics are not always to be lawfully accused of indiffer- \nence and ingratitude.* \n\n* It wa3 on the 10th of November, the one hundredth birthday of Schiller, that the \nwritings were finished, signed and sealed, which conveyed the memorable spot from \nMr. Truttman, the owner, to the possession of the whole confederate people. And on \nthe day when the whole civilized world celebrated the birth of the great poet, he was \nnot forgotten by the people whose glory he sang. The men of Uri, as in the drama, \nwere the " first on the ground," and the others crossed the lake in a great yacht, sing- \ning as they came in sight of the mountain : \n\n" We heartily hail thee in distance, \n\nstill mountain that liftest thine head. \nWhere the wavelet, that melts as it glistens, \nFrom snows everlasting is fed. \n\n" We praise thee, most peaceful of regions, \nWe hail thee, thou holiest land, \nWhere our fathers, with valorous legions, \nFor ever burst slavery\'s band." \n\nArrived at the opposite shore, they were greeted by their waiting countrymen, and \nall ascended together to stand on the sacred spot where the patriot league was sworn. \nHe-.e they formed a circle, hand in hand, and renewed the solemn covenant, singing \nafterwards some thrilling songs of freedom Many liberty speeches were also made, and \na resolution passed to place there a single shaft of stone, bearing the inscription : \n\n" To Tell\'s poet. \nOn his hundredth birthday, \nThe original cantons." \n\n\n\n40 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe annual election of state officers is the grand festival of \neach year in every canton, and yet is held always on the Sab- \nbath. It is a religious and solemn occasion in their eyes, and \nSunday the most fitting time for its responsible duties. Before \nth& act of mediation, in 1816, the period of majority for every \nyouth in Canton Uriwas fourteen years of age, but it being held \nthat he could not be a citizen before he was a man, the youth \nnow waits till he is twent;y before he can exercise the right of \nsuffrage. \n\nThe place for holding the popular assembly in this canton is \nthree miles from Altdorf, at the foot of a mountain in Botz- \nlingen, within sight of the ruins of Attinghausen. On the 15th \nof April, fourteen days before they are to hold the election and \ntransact the business of the canton, a formal notice is published, \n\nDuring the dinners which celebrated the same occasion in Berne, a German finished \nhis toast by wishing for Switzerland a Schiller. A Swiss voice quickly responded, \n" And we wish for Germany a Tell." \n\nIn Basle, the ladies, thinking they were unduly neglected, by not being invited to \nparticipate in festivities so proper to be graced by their presence, and the importance \nof which they so fully appreciated, resolved to institute a fete by themselves. Silently \nand softly, as was meet, they made the arrangements, secured the elegant salon of the \nThree Kings Hotel for the purpose, decorated it with a bust of Schiller, engravings, \nworks of art, and wreaths of flowers, and at nine o\'clock in the evening, while their \nlords were convened around the festive board in a distant quarter of the city, these \nfair conspirators assembled, but not with murderous intent. They were pleasantly \nsurprised to find they had been remembered, and their plan approved by those who at \nfirst ignored their existence. Vases of flowers, with significant mottoes, were upon the \ntable, placed, if not by fair, yet by skilful hands, and a bouquet of rare flowers adorned \neach plate, tied in graceful knots of white ribbons. The ladies exclaimed, "Better \nlate than never," and evidently entered upon their festivities with more buoyant spirits. \nThey read aloud portions of Schiller\'s poem, sang songs of freedom, and danced. They \nwere not the less pleasantly surprised, in the midst of their mirth, by " Fireworks on \nthe Rhine," which formed no part of their programme. At supper they gave toasts, \nindulged again in wit and song, and at twelve returned to their homes, not a little \ntriumphant at the success of their plot, and their genuine enjoyment of an occasion \nwhere gentlemen had implied they were incapable of participating in the " feast of \nreason and the flow of soul." \n\n\n\nDEI. 41 \n\nspecifying the time, wMcli is the first Sunday in May, and the \nobject of the meeting, from which no person is excluded except \ncriminals ; and no one, however poor or ill-clothed, fails to be \npresent. \n\nAfter morning service in the church, the people form a grand \nprocession. At the head are the musicians, and the drum- \nmers, and a company of military, who surround the national \nbanner. Then follow two men clothed in the ancient costume \nof the heroes of Switzerland, carrying upon their shoulders \nenormous buffalo horns, ornamented with silver. Close behind \nthem are what they term the Land Weibel, men who answer to \nthe valets of kings, only they are valets to that invisible but im- \nportant personage, the Repubhc. They are clothed with the \ncantonal colours \xe2\x80\x94 ^long loose robes, half black and half yellow, \nfalling to tlie feet, and a large round hat, with points runnmg \nout at the side. In England they might call them beadles, but \nit is diflBcult to find an exactly corresponding ofiice, and we have \ntherefore no appropriate appellation. \n\nThese important and very serious-looking personages carry \nthe official seals, the keys of the archives, the sword of justice, \nand a staff surmounted by a globe, upon which is an apple upon \nthe point of an arrow. Then follow the chief magistrates on \nhorseback in theu\' black silk mantles, and bearing a sword ; and \nlastly, counsellors and other citizens. \n\nThe seats for the assembly are arranged in a semicircle, and \na large concourse being already seated, at the approach of the \nimposing cortege they rise and uncover their heads. On a table \nin front are the statute-books, and there the Land Weibel de- \nposit the seals and keys, which are enclosed in a bag, also bear- \ning the cantonal colours. Beside them is the ancient knife or \nsword used by the venerated heroes, and now the emblem of peace. \n\n\n\n42 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe officials take their places upon a platform, and the musicians \nplay an air known as the " Old Song of TdlT \n\nThe session is opened by the chief magistrate, who is denomi- \nnated Landammatij with a speech recalling the principal events \nof their history, the blessings they at present enjoy, and, re- \nviewing the past year, j&nishes with an allusion to their obliga- \ntions to God as their divine benefactor, and the necessity of im- \nploring his aid for the future ; when all kneel down for a few \nmoments in silent prayer. This is a most affecting and beauti- \nful sight, so evident is the sincerity and depth of their devotion ; \nand not the least attractive feature of the occasion are the child- \nren, who are placed in front of the platform within the circle, \nin order to be early impressed with the importance of republican \nvirtue, and who are during the whole ceremony profoundly atten- \ntive. Women are allowed to be present, but not within, among \ntheir lords ; they stand at a respectful distance without, but \nwhere they see and hear all that passes. \n\nA month before the meeting, seven honorable citizens, each \nof a different family, are commissioned to prepare any resolutions, \nor propose any new measures of government. The first act of \nbusiness for the day is for the Landamman to place these, if fur- \nnished, in order before the people. Every one is allowed to \nspeak upon their merits, and to make any new propositions, and \nthe discussions are often loud and stormy. When the vote is \ncalled, those who are for the affirmative hold up their hands, \nand when the negatives are counted, and there seems still a \ndoubt, each party marches in single file before the table sepa- \nrately and the numbers are counted. A majority of one is suffi- \ncient to establish a law. \n\nWhen all business is finished, the reigning Landamman ren- \nders an account of his magistracy, and asks if the people are \n\n\n\nITRI. 43 \n\nsatisfied with his administration. Being assured of this by loud \napplause, he steps forward and lays down his seal of office. All \nthe other officials follow his example, and take their seats in the \nmidst of the assembly. For a little time there is a profound \nsilence, intended to be emblematic of the power of the people to \ngovern themselves, when there is no visible government, no hand \nholding the reins. Then follows a little farce of mock licence, \nbecause they have no rulers and can do what they please, which \nspeedily subsides into order, and the election of new officers com- \nmences. \n\nThe oldest person who has held the office of Landamman is \ninvited to name a successor to him who has just retired, and \noften one of the most obscure among the citizens is nominated \nfor this office and elected. The same person may be re-elected \nany number of times, if they choose, but it is not often done \nwithout an interval. In honour to Walter Furst they chose the \nchief magistrate from the family of Attinghausen for nearly a \ncentury. \n\nWhen all the officers are elected, of whom the principal are \ntwelve in number, they resume the places of those who resigned, \nand take the keys and seals in the order in which they were laid \ndown. The oaths of office are then administered, in which they \nswear to respect the laws and the independence of the country, \nand the assembly disperses. It is very seldom that this solem- \nnity and order are in the least infringed. A portion of the \npeople indulge in games and songs, but there is a proverb, that \n\'\'Uri is the conscience of Switzerland," and crimes and misde- \nmeanours occur more seldom here than elsewhere. \n\nThey are superstitious, and have a thousand legends concern- \ning the " genii " who inhabit the mountains, and who, they be- \nievc, dispel the storms and rule the tempests, watch over the \n\n\n\n44 THE COTTAGES OF. THE ALPS. \n\nfountains and render fruitful the fields. Their language is ex- \nceedingly poetic in relating these stories, and the flowers of rhe- \ntoric abound in the speeches of their magistrates, and even ia \nthe records of their statute books. \n\nIt is not known that they were originally the same people as \nthe neighbouring cantons. Their traditions date to the time of \nthe Emperor Theodosius, and a document in their archives, \ngranting them peculiar privileges, bears the seal of Charle- \nmagne, They were originally called Taurisci, probably from \ntaurus, the Latin for bull, and the Romans may have found the \nformidable horns already on their armour. The men are still \ncalled the finest in Switzerland ; yet, in many places, deformity \nand sickness appear as the consequence of bad food and un- \nhealthy air. Meat is very rare ; the various preparations of \nmilk and cheese being the principal sustenance of the poor ; and \nthere live many who see nothing all winter but porridge, and all \nsummer but goat\'s milk. \n\nThe dress was formerly blue small clothes and long white \nstockings, fastened together by leather cords and buttons, red \nvest and a leathern girdle, with the date of the year upon it when \nit was made, in colours wrought with a needle. Some wear a \nbroad-brimmed hat ornamented with peacock\'s feathers. But \nnow they have universally adopted the dress of men in all lands. \nAmong the women, as usual, the ancient costume is preserved \nlonger, though much modified. Still one may see now and then \nthe red petticoat and red stockings of the olden times, the low \nbodice and full chemisette, with crimped cap-frill standing up \non the head like the shell of the nautilus, and the little square \ncollars and silver chains which form part of almost every cos- \ntume in Switzerland. The collar is usually of velvet, wrought \nin silver flowers, or, among the poor, with coloured threads. \n\n\n\nuRi. 45 \n\nsquare on the shoulder, and the chain of silver among the rich, \nand of steel among the poor, fastens to each corner behind, and \nis brought under the arm, hanging loosely, and meets a broad \nclasp on the corner in front. When the whole di\'ess is neat and \ncorresponds, it has a very pretty effect. We heard one day a \nload clatter, clatter, through the street, and on looking closely \nsaw a group of girls with sandals on their feet. They are made \nof maple wood, very large, and, slipping at every step, are like \nso many blows upon the pavement. \n\nThe people are subject to all sorts of casualties, which must \nbe a continual drain upon their means. We were passing from \nvillage to village one afternoon, and as we were riding leisurely \nalong, several men called out halt ! at the top of their voices ; \nand upon halting, we learned that the road was stopped up by a \nland-slide, which had occurred only a few hours before, and \nwhich could have buried us beneath its mass of stone and mud \nif we had been happening to pass at the time. All travellers \nmust go far round another way till it was mended, and this \nwould require several days. These land-slides are frequent after \na rain, and avalanches are of daily occurrence durmg the season \nof snow. \n\nThe pass of the St. Gotthard belongs to Uri and Tessin on \nthe south side of the Alps. The first person who ever crossed \nit was an English mmeralogist, July 25th, 1725. The second \nperson was another Englishman, in 11*13, who required the aid \nof four horses and eight men ; and the expense of going from \nAltdorf to Giornico was one hundred and thirty dollars. The \npath was improved, and became a great route for transport by \nmeans of mules, and yielded an annual revenue of more than \neight thousand five hundred dollars to Uri alone. When the \nSimplon was finished in 1806, the St. Gotthard was abandoned, \n\n\n\n46 THE COTIAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nand tlie people saw their only source of industry cut off, unless \nthey could build a similar road, which they resolved to do. It \nwas a marvellous undertaking for Napoleon, and Ktill more \nmarvellous for the little Canton XJri to construct a carriage-way \nto Italy. But in 1820 in was commenced, and ten years later, \nin 1830, it was opened ; other cantons having contributed to \nthe work, and a native of Altdorf being the engineer. In \n1837, nearly one third of it was swept away by a terrible storm, \nand in 1839 it experienced again a similar calamity. It leads \nthe travellers through some of the finest scenery in Switzerland, \nand passes scenes of the most interesting historical associations, \nbut the village of Andermatt, on the meadows, is the only one \nof importance for many miles, and the old hospice at the foot of \nthe mountain was for centuries the only place of entertainment. \nNow there are hotels, but we cannot call them good. \n\nThe meadow must have been once a lake, and the grass is \nstill nourished by a moisture that gives it a peculiar brightness. \nThe butter which it produces is also of a peculiar golden hue, and \nthe cheese of unequalled richness. \n\nThe snows last till April, and they have a proverb which says \n" No April so good that each hedge has not its hat." It is \nmelted usually by the faun, a hot wind which blows from the \nsouth, and causes the drifted masses to disappear more in \ntwenty-four hours, than the sun in eight days. It often con- \ntinues in one current for a week without cessation, and some- \ntimes with such violence that houses are unroofed and trees torn \nup by the roots. But at the same time it is so warm that the \nbuds open into flowers in a few days, and are afterwards chilled \nby a wind from the west, thus blighting the hopes of the hus- \nDandman. Nine tenths of the storms come from the west. The \nfaun is felt as far north as Zurich, and the rules of wind and \n\n\n\nUEi. 47 \n\nweather baffle the wisest prophets concerning then* freaks. The \nchanges from cold to heat are almost instantaneous, and the \nbarometer and thermometer run a race, but in opposite direc- \ntions. It is scarcely possible to keep a fire while it lasts, as the \nflames are so suddenly increased as to endanger the buildings, \nand there is no certainty when it will appear. \n\nBut the " brave men of Url" rise superior to all calamities, \nand where there is so high an appreciation of noble deeds there \nmust be still the capacity to perform them. They have not \nmany great names upon the scrolls which record the works of \nart in the quiet days of peace, though the sculptor Inrihof, long \nknown at Rome, was a native of Uri ; and a poet, a historian, \nand a painter, have originated in three of their most secluded \nvillages. The war-trumpet would be sure to call out their \nenergies, but we hope it will be long ere its notes fall on their \nears, and that ambition will be awakened to rivalry in not less \nhonourable but more useful paths. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER III. \n\n\n\nSCHWYTZ. \n\n\n\nORIGIN OJF PEOPLE \xe2\x80\x94 BRUNNEN \xe2\x80\x94 DILIGENCE \xe2\x80\x94 HOTELS \xe2\x80\x94 COSTUMES \xe2\x80\x94 IMPROTE- \nMENTS \xe2\x80\x94 EINSIEDELN \xe2\x80\x94 PILGRIMS \xe2\x80\x94 LEGENDS. \n\n\n\nIn Schwytz tlie people have a legend concerning their origin, \nwhich says, " Long ago, a colony from Sweden left theu\' coun- \ntry because they had become too many, and there was no more \nroom in the land. Their destination was Rome, but a wild \nstorm which swept down the St. Gotthard prevented their cross- \ning, and being also overtaken by robbers, and though victorious, \nmuch weakened by the combat, they resolved to settle farther \nnorth. Brunnen seemed to them a pleasant valley, and they \nfound there good springs of water. It reminded them of the \nhome they had left, and they built their huts by the sea. The \nquestion arose, what name they should give the new land, and \ntwo brothers wishing to baptize it, each with his own, had a \nfearful dispute, and at length concluded to settle the matter by \nsingle combat, the one who should be victorious acquiring the \nriglit to the coveted honour. Schioit and Scheiz were the com* \n\n48 \n\n\n\nSCHWYTZ. 4 9 \n\npetitors, and the first being crowned victor, with a little varia- \ntion, his name has become that of a whole people." \n\nThere must be some foundation for the story, as it is com- \nmemorated by art as well as by song, and the two men of \n"giant form" and " giant mould" engaged in deadly strife are \npainted on the stuccoed walls of a warehouse on the shore of the \nlake, and its authenticity admits not a doubt in the minds of the \nnarrators. The legend proceeds to state that Louis the Ger- \nman being emperor, they sent deputies " to ask permission to \nsettle in the land, which he granted, and also accorded to them \nmany privileges ; requiring no tribute, and promising that no \nforeign baihffs should be sent to rule over them. The history \nrecognizes their existence, and speaks of a similar deputation \nwhich took place in the ninth century. These privileges were \nconfimied by successive emperors, till they were looked upon as \nrights. They had enjoyed freedom so long that bondage was \nnot endurable ; and when the attempt was made by Albert, son \nof Rudolph of Hapsburg, to subdue them as an inheritance for \nhis son, they revolted, and with their sister cantons of the lake \nformed the alliance which resulted in the "Helvetian Confede- \nracy." This treaty was renewed in 1315, and those who \nformed it are also represented in full-length frescoes upon the \nwalls of the same house by the sea. In 1815, was celebrated at \nSchw^tz, the five hundredth anniversary of this union, when the \npeople from every mountain and valley came with their banners \nand their songs to hold a glad festival together in the cradle of \ntheir hberties. \n\nBronnen seemed to us also a " pleasant valley," and we tar- \nried there many days. We rose early to see the sun shed his \ngolden light upon the waters, and sat loug into the night to \nwatch the moonbeams gild the ripples, and once saw them lashed \n\n\n\n50 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ninto fury by a storm which sent them clashing and foaming \nagainst the rocks as if some mad spirit moved them with a living \nrage. And whether in sunshine or in storm, our thoughts wan- \ndered back to the little boat which darted over its surface \nimpelled by the strong ann of the hero, in whose breast was a \nstorm as wild, as he swore revenge and death to the hated \noppressor. Now there are a hundred boats with their oars dip- \nping leisurely as they glide along, and gay, laughing maidens \nare the rowers. \n\nFour times a day steamers pass by, on one of which are \npainted the arms of the four cantons which border the lake, and \nover which waves the flag of the Confederacy. They are gay \nwith many colours, like a fair maiden in holiday costume, and \ntheir decks thronged with pleasure-seeking travellers. Brunnen \nis the depot for the merchandise w^hich is to pass the St. Gott- \nhard, or which is brought over and destined for the north. \nTravellers from the north and east come also this way to embark \nfor Lucerne, or to cross the mountains, so that all summer the \nwharf presents one scene of bustle and hum of business and \npleasure. \n\nIn no other canton have we so pleasant remembrances of the \nkindness of the people. We now and then took a fancy to pass \nincognito, not understanding why we should not avail ourselves \nof this privilege as well as any princess or duchess, though it \nmight not be for the same reason. We converted our name \ninto a German one, by the addition of a syllable, and spoke the \nlanguage of the people among whom we happened to be as well \nas we could. If Germans did not understand us, they con- \ncluded it was because we were SwiSs, and if the Swiss did not \nunderstand us, they concluded it was because we were German, \nor from some outlandish corner, the dialect of which they had \n\n\n\nSCHWYTZ. 61 \n\nnever heard ; and we allowed them to think what they pleased, \nnever asserting that we were from one country or another, \nthough we are quite certain they took us now and then to be \nfugitives from some rebellious colony, or emissaries from Austrian \nor Napoleonic head-quarters, these personages being at that \ntime sufficiently abundant in many lands. The true nature of \nour embassy it would never occur to them t\xc2\xab imagine ; but our \nadventures were many and amusing, though neither duchess nor \nspy. The obliging and lady-like hostess of the " Po5^ " could \nnot have treated us with more attention had we been empress, \nand without manifesting the least inquisitiveness concerning our \n" name and station, age, or race." No book was presented us, \nin which to record whence we came and whither we were going ; \nevery favour was granted that we asked, and many that we did \nnot ask ; and the bill contained no long list of extras, and was \nin all things just and reasonable. She was a lady in her dress \nand manners, everywhere present in the sphere of her duties, \nattentive without being obsequious, generous in what she fur- \nnished, and without exaction in what she required. Guide- \nbooks, which are no guide at all in these matters, do not mention \nit as among the " first-rate hotels," but it was among the best \nwe found, and we therefore commend it, though they did not \nknow, and probably never will, that we could thus reward \nthem.* \n\n\n\n* It was after this that we spent some weeks at the Pension Jaggi near Berne, and \nshould be guilty of injustice not to record the sterling integrity of the old lady who has \nbeen for so many years its presiding genius. Her fault was always to forget the items, \nand we have heard those who had known her in the capacity of landlady nearly twenty \nyears, assert that not the most captious traveller ever accused her of injustice or exac- \ntion to the amr.untof a centime. \n\n" One good price, and done with it," is her rule, and she abides by it. She pays her \nservants, and they attend to her guests not less Lindly than those who demand a fee \n\n\n\n52 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\n\'\' Hotel keeping" is a peculiar institution in Switzerland, and \ncannot be passed by in silence. The charges are, as elsewhere \non the Continent, so much for every item, however large or \nsmall it may be ; but in most places one may stay a few days or \nweeks as a boarder, paying so much per day, a sum expected to \nbe less than when reckoned by the piece. As a general rule, it \nmay be said of these hotels and boarding houses that they are \ngood and reasonable. But the system of charging by the piece \ncan never be just, and the custom of demanding " Trinkgeld," in \naddition to the bill, is a fraud, especially when most of the \ntravellers belong to nations who do not understand the language \nand habits of the people. \n\nOne can never know with any degree of precision what the \nexpense in any place may be. When the first sum is mentioned, \nin answer to the inquiry, \'\' How much must I pay ?" it seems \nsmall ; but when you have paid all the just and unjust extras, it \nis larger than in an ordinary hotel, where the whole sum is given \ndirectly and sounds enormous. Besides, it affords opportunities \nof making false accounts, which are abundantly improved. Eng- \nlish people seldom read a bill, and in a great proportion of cases \ncould not if they would. What the long string of items may be \nwhich they find presented for payment, they do not know ; \nand travelling for pleasure, and being in a hurry, they do not \ncare. Yet now and then one takes the trouble to decipher the \nhieroglyphics, and often finds an enumeration of comforts and \nluxuries of which he has had no actual experience. One is \nalways sure to be a candle charged three times its cost, when \nonly an inch or two has been burned. They are thus able to \n\nfor every step. In tWs way there is no misunderstanding, and no petty disputes about \na few pennyworths, which many people will dispute about, not for the value of a \npenny, but because they will not submit to injustice. \n\n\n\nSCIIWYTZ. 53 \n\nsell it over and over, and must find tallow, soap and spermaceti \namong the most profitable of their investments. We have seen \ntravellers, who, having paid for the candle and soap, put it in \nthen- bags, and at the next place " found themselves," till they \nwere obliged to purchase more in the same way. Another \nitem is " service" being twenty, and often forty cents for merely \nthe ordinary preparations in your sleeping-room, and which is no \nsubstitute for the " trinkgeld," which is as much more, and \nwhich if you refuse, your baggage is seized, and twenty servants \nstand in array to fight it out. They know you must yield, \nbecause it is a trifle compared to being delayed on a journey, \nand few people care to expose themselves to a public quarrel, \nthe rights of which cannot be explained. \n\nOn the summit of the Righi, one may arrive at midnight and \nleave at sunrise, not seeing a servant, or having the least atten- \ntion, yet the " service" is just the same. The hotel is good, and \nthe arrangements marvellous to behold, when one considers that \nevery article of food and furniture must be carried up on the \nshoulders of men ; and during the season, the saloon and dining- \nhall present a scene like that of Baden-Baden. No reasonable \nperson would be disposed to complain of a generous price in \nsuch a place. But why not have a uniform one, that allows \nevery one to know what the expense may be of spending a \nnight or a week on the Righi ? \n\nThe deceptions concerning guides are the same. You are told \nthat for a guide and horse you must pay four dollars ; and \nhaving had no experience in this system of fraud, you suppose \nthis the whole sum. When you descend, nearly a dollar more \nis demanded for " Trinkgeld." At the foot of the Reghi we saw \nthis disputed, and a quarrel was the consequence. The party \nwere detained too late for the boat, and had to pay it in the end. \n\n\n\n54 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe law fixes the tariff for guides and horses, which is placed in \na conspicuous place for all to read, but there is no mention of \nthe " Trinkgeld " which is often demanded by the hotel keeper, \nand never a cent of it given to the guide. In our case,* the \nhotel keeper kept only half, and knowing that we were to leave \nin a hurry, the boat being in sight, he contrived to delay pre- \nsenting the bill till the last moment, and looking only at the \nitems, without adding them, we did not observe till the next \nday that several extra francs were set down without even the \npretence of an item. The same thing is often done, and so suc- \ncessfully, that they have no fear of detection. \n\nAnother principle, both in hotel and shop-keeping, is, to \ncharge all who speak English, a thu\'d more than any other \npeople. A Swiss lady, who had married an Englishman, said \nshe was no longer in favour in her native city among the trades- \npeople, because they could not cheat her husband as they had \nbeen doing for many years. But this is the practice over the \nwhole Continent. "We have seen the experiment tried very often \nof asking prices, within the same hour concerning the same arti- \ncles, by a native and an Englishman, and the difference would be \nalways a third, and sometimes one half. Every year brings a \nnew throng, and they are all in the same hurry. Forty thou- \nsand is the average number annually in the public conveyances \nof Switzerland, and the season scarcely three months in dura- \ntion. They wish, therefore, to make as much as possible, and \nare tempted to all unlawful as well as lawful means. But these \nare the sins of an individual, or a class, and not of the whole \npeople ; and lately there have been formed associations among \nhotel keepers to prevent fraud and exaction. There is nothing \ndemanded by the government for passports ; and postage and \n\n* Lion (I\'or\xe2\x80\x94 Weggis. \n\n\n\nSCHWYTZ. 55 \n\ntelegrams are cheaper than ia any other country of Europe. \nNeither in diligence nor railroad is any one allowed to smoke \nwithout the consent of the whole company, and the facilities for \ntravelling with speed and comfort are carried to the greatest \npossible perfection. \n\n"First come, first served," is the rule in the great coach, \nwhich still goes rattling over the hills and through the valleys, . \nand the best seat is in the coupe in front, as there is nothing to \nobstruct the view, and there is room for only three persons. \nPeople who are only desirous of seeing the most wonderful \nscenery, can reach the important points in Canton Schwytz by \nsteamboat and railway, and thus avoid the diligence. But \nour object being the reverse, we took the diligence and avoided \nthe railway. It was only by thjs means that we could see the \nvillages and their inhabitants. \n\nThe people being Catholic, and the life pastoral, they are very \nsunilar, in many respects, to their sisters Uri and Unterwald. \n" In the times that tried men\'s souls," they were not less brave ; \nand in peace, they were as content with their rural retirements \nand simplicity. \n\nInnovations march slowly among the mountains ; yet Paris \nfashion plates have found their way into almost every hut and \nhamlet. The original dress of the men was similar to that in \nUnterwald, consisting of black leather small clothes, white \nstockings, scarlet vest, and blue or brown jacket reaching to the \nknee, and open in front. In olden times, the government \nofficers wore scarlet mantles and perrucks, small clothes, with \nred coat, having many folds, reaching to the knee, and four \nsleeves, two of them hanging very loose, like those of Roman \nlictors. But now this is the dress of the standard-bearers and \nLandweibd, the officials appearing in black like other burghers. \n\n\n\n56 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nwith only the addition of mantles of the same colom- for state \noccasions. \n\nThe red petticoat and variegated apron have almost entirely \ndisappeared ; but the jaunty straw hat, with bouquets of flowers \nand knots of ribbons, may sometimes be seen, with the long \nbraids of hair interwoven with red, and brought down on each \nside of the neck in front. The bodice is usually of black, \ninstead of blue, with scarlet lacings ; and the velvet collar has \ntaken the place of the parti-coloured neckkerchief. Among a \ngreat portion, there is no remnant of the former costume ; and \nin some places it has all disappeared except the cap, which is \nalways the last to be given up. It consists of two wings, like a \nbutterfly, spread out each side, and the. hair brought up between \nin braids, and fastened with a silver or gilt hair-pin in the form \nof a full-blown rose, and called rose hair-pin. Others wear the \nlace comb, elsewhere described, standing up so high, that in \nchurch or public assembly there is such a forest of caps that the \nspeaker is entirely concealed from those behind . The nuns wear \nblack and white veils, so thick that a pretty face is entirely con- \ncealed by them. \n\nWe have never passed through a Swiss village without seeing \na carpenter at work on the houses ; and here and there some \nclapboards, some new shingles or window-frames, a new portico, \nor something that indicated a little improvement or the spirit of \nprogress. In almost every village, there are all grades from rich \nto poor, and the striving to rise which it is always pleasant to \nobserve among human bdngs. \n\nOne of their authors says, six hundred years ago, Gessler was \njealous of a peasant because he had a flne house. A httle later \nit was the peasants who were jealous of each other ; but now a \nnew or fine house is no object of wonder or envy, they have \n\n\n\nSCHWYTZ. 57 \n\nbecome so common. Among the poorest they are still old and \nold-fashioned, with the great overhanging roofs, without chim- \nneys and without paint \xe2\x80\x94 not an object for envy even in their \nbest days. The kitchen is dark, the great stove occupies a third \nof its space, and around it coo with the same familiarity a family \nof children and a family of doves. The great sofa, when it is \nclean, is the only comfortable-looking article, and is duly appre- \nciated. There rest the elders from their labours, and tumble \nthe little ones in their play. It is the throne whence issue all \norders \xe2\x80\x94 the council-chamber where plans are made and poUtics \ndiscussed. But the new houses are pretty, often white, with \ngreen blinds. There are not many very rich, and there are \nmany very poor in the land. The canton is forty square leagues \nin extent, and has 44,000 inhabitants, with no city, and in the \nlargest village only 3,000 people. They are so proud of the \npast that they do not think enough of the present and the future. \n\nNearly everywhere we were almost the only passenger in the \ndiligence, and occupied the couye with the postihons. - We saw \nat once that they had no faith in our incognito, but did not \nfeel bound to remove their doubts, though if we had they \nmight possibly have been more communicative. As it was, they \nwere evidently afraid of betraying their country. \n\nIt was here that we first saw the pilgrims on their way to \nEinsiedeln. The first group we noticed had come all the way \nfrom the Tyrol. How poor and miserable, careworn and travel- \nstained they looked ! What a strange infatuation that prompts \nthem to seek comfort for this life and salvation for the future in \nthe mummeries of a few monks in an old cloister ! We were \nalso on our way thither, though for a different purpose. It is \nthe saddest of all the scenes in this pleasant land, yet we cannot \npass it by. \n\n3* \n\n\n\n58 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nEinsiedeln is the most renowned resort of pilgrims, not only in \nSwitzerland, but for all middle Europe. The throng every year \nis still 150,000, and last year it was said to reach a higher \nnumber than ever before, though in It 00 it is stated to have \nbeen 202,000, and in ItlO, the incredible number of 260,000. \n\nThe legend of the abbey, as given by the monks and credited \nby the pilgrims, is, that in the days of Charlemagne, a hermit \nof the noble family of Hohenzollern repaired to this remote \nwilderness, then called \'\' Finsterwald," to end his days in soli- \ntude and prayer, devoting himself to the care of a small black \nimage of the Virgin, which had been given him by St. Hilde- \ngarde, then Abbess of Zurich. In 803 he w^as murdered ; but \ntwo pet ravens which he had reared, pursued the murderers as far \nas Zurich, and by croaking and flapping their wings attracted \nattention to them, thus causing their arrest. Afterwards they \nwere executed on a spot where now stands the Raven Inn. \n\nMeinrad, the hermit, had lived in a cell, but the renown of his \nsanctity prompted Erberard, another count of the same noble \nfamily, to found a convent upon the place ; and he obtained \nfrom the emperor the grant of large tracts of waste land as an \nendowment. On the 14th of September, 948, the Bishop of \nConstance was to consecrate the church, but the night previous \nhe was awakened by angelic minstrelsy, and in the morning re- \nceived a message from heaven, that the consecration had already \nbeen performed by the Saviour and powers of heaven. Pope \nLeon YIII. pronounced it a true miracle, and in consideration \nof it granted plenary indulgence to all pilgrims who should wend \ntheir way to the shrine of Our Lady of the Hermit ! He proba- \nbly expected his command to take effect only for a few years, or \nduring his lifetime, but the most ambitious of popes never \ndreamed that for nine centuries these worthless words would \n\n\n\nSCHWYTZ. \n\n\n\n59 \n\n\n\npreserve their charm, and millions of people really believe they \ncould blot out their sins by obeying his false and sacrilegious \nmandate. It is no slander to say, that a great proportion of \nthose who come now have not even so good an object as this. \n\nThe 14th of September is still the day for the largest assembly, \nand presents the strangest concourse to be seen in any time, or \nseason, or country ; all languages and all manners, all costumes \nand all colours, being blended in the most inharmonious confu- \nsion. There are tents for pilgrims and booths for trade ; devo- \ntees at their shrines, and jockeys at their stalls ; the prayers of \nthe pious and the curses of the profane ; revelry, drunkenness, and \ndebauchery ; the gaudy trappings of the rich, and the beggarly \nrags of the poor, the grey old monks in their cowls, and the lisp- \ning children at their feet, all coming and going to fall on their \nknees before a little black image enshrined within the church, \ncalled the " Virgin and Child." There is never an hour in the \nyear, perhaps, that some one is not muttering Ave Marias on \nthe cold stones before this senseless object ; and at many seasons \nthere are hundreds, and sometimes thousands, prostrate together, \nall really believing when they rise that their sins have been par- \ndoned. What a power in faith ! Unless God has taken pity \nupon their ignorance and superstition, no influence from without \nhas been exerted on their souls, yet they feel no longer the bur- \nden of transgression ; but if sin really weighs upon their con- \nsciences, they must in many cases be more heavily laden when \nthey go than when they came, but being rid of one load they \nare better able, perhaps, to carry another. \n\nZwinglius was curate in Einsiedeln from 1516 to 1519, and \ncommenced preaching the reformatory doctrines to the pilgrims, \nand had the pleasure of seeing many adopt the true faith who \nhad come there trusting to the efficacy of popish indulgences. \n\n\n\n60 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nBut the pilgrim shrines and the gory plains of Italy are almost \nenough to stagger one\'s faith in the efficacy of any means for \nspreading the pure principles of the Gospel of peace and righte- \nousness. \n\nThe personal influence of the priesthood is much greater in \nCatholic Switzerland than in Germany at the present time, and \nthe difference in those of the two faiths is far greater. Yet the \npeople have never allowed pope and Church to trammel their \npolitical freedom. When fairly convinced that their cause was \nright, they defied all hans and prohibitions, till the politic holy \nfather learned to go " so far and no farther " if he would retain \na remnant among them as his loyal worshippers \xe2\x80\x94 his subjects \nthey have never been. \n\nIn the canton there are six convents, three of which are for \nwomen, and thirty parishes. There is a school in every com- \nmune, and the priests are in many instances the schoolmasters ; \nbut instruction is not gratuitous in all, and except in the larger \ntowns there is no attempt to keep the children together in the \nwinter, and those who are on the hills in summer have of course \nvery little opportunity for study. There is still among the people \nof the rural districts, isolated from the travelling world, much of \nthe simplicity and confidence of the olden time, when, if a neigh- \nbour wanted anything in the storehouse or pantry of another, he \ntook it and paid when it became convenient. The cellar and \nmilkroom had no locks, and if some one needed milk or cream \nin the night, he entered and helped himself and left the money \nunder the pan. \n\nWe can never forget the bright merry face of a maiden we \nmet one day in our walks. We had acted in the spirit of prime- \nval confidence, whether it would be approved now or not, and \nseated ourselves in a rustic arbour overlooking a beautiful land- \n\n\n\nSCHWYTZ. 61 \n\nscape, knowing very well that if it belonged to a prince or noble- \nman we were committing an unpardonable offence. In a few \nmoments two young girls passed by, and one looked in, and with \nmost respectful manner said, " Good evening," according to the \ncustom of her people, whether they meet friend or stranger. \nAccording to our custom we answered still more cordially, and \nshe walked in and seated herself, saying, "It was very pleasant.\'\' \nThere was neither embarrassment nor familiarity. We talked \nan hour together and then took a walk. She chattered all the \ntime hke a magpie, not seeming once to have the feelmg that \nwe were strangers, and her face was like the reflection of sun- \nbeams on the water, so radiant that it had the power of a charm, \nriveting our eyes at the time and riveting our thoughts ever since. \nShe was seventeen years old, she said, but appeared two years \nyounger. She could not read, because she had been sick all her \nlife, and knew nothing beyond the affairs of her native village. \nHer ease and naturalness were in consequence of her ignorance, \nhke that of a child who has never learned the art of poUteness. \nIf she were not talking she laughed in the same careless way ; \nwas earnest if she spoke of anything serious ; and we could not \nhelp thinking, if the village were full of such maidens, no wonder \nthe shepherds are content. She belonged to the Muottothal, \nwhere we afterwards learned that this nobility and brightness \nof the face was characteristic of the people, where they are never \nsad, whatever may happen and however great their misfortunes, \nand say they are descended from the Goths, who were expelled \nfrom Italy in the sixth century. We would go very far to look \nagain on such a countenance. \n\nThe chapel of Our Lady of the Snow upon the Kighi is also \nthe resort of pilgrims, who still trust to the indulgence promised \nin 1100 to all who should ascend and assist at a fete in honor \n\n\n\n62 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nof the Yirgin. On the 8tli of September, the day of the \nNativity, every path to the mountain is thronged, and for more \nthan half a century pilgrims were the only worshippers who \ncHmbed the dizzy heights. Now there are ten thousand every \nyear, worshippers of nature ; and the imagination cannot con- \nceive anything more lovely than the view presented from the \nRighi Culm, when "the sun goes into gold," as they express it, \nor rises on a cloudless morning. \n\nThis and the neighbouring mountains are covered with a net- \nwork of legends connected with their religion or their history ; \nand we have heard stories of pigmies which were word for word \nlike those to which we have listened in Indian wigwams.* They \nare represented as little folk with long silver beard and hair \nreaching to the earth, and wearing green coats and little caps. \nThey were the special protectors of the chamois of the hills and \nthe fish of the sea, and all who trespassed upon their dominions \nwere sure to experience their revenge. They hved in subterra- \nnean dwellings, and came forth like apparitions and vanished as \nquickly. \n\n* In this or any similar remark we do not intend to compare the people to Indians, \nhere or in Germany, though, as far as our own opinions are concerned, we could not \npay them a greater compliment than by so doing. But it would be an unpardonable \nnegligence not to state a resemblance like this where intercommunication could never \nhave existed, and when there is no proof or suspicion of a similar origin. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER lY. \n\nUNTERWALD. \n\nALPINE PASTURES \xe2\x80\x94 SENNHUTTEN\xe2\x80\x94 -CHEESE-MAKING \xe2\x80\x94 COWS AND THEIR BELLS \nALPINE FESTIVALS \xe2\x80\x94 AGRICULTURE \xe2\x80\x94 FETES. \n\n" The pious Unterwalders." This is not only an appellation \nby which they are well known, but one by which it pleases \nthem to be designated. Nowhere else in Switzerland are the \nemblems of their faith so thickly strewn on mountain and in \nvalley. The cross reminds one at almost every step of Him who \nbore it, and here and there in every valley are little niches cut \nin the trunks of trees, with some image of saint or virgui im- \nbedded gracefully in foliage, and often women kneeling before \nthem with a chaplet in their hands. High up on the Alps are \nseen the little chapels for the use of the shepherds, for, like the \npeople of Schwytz and Uri, they too are a pastoral people. \n\nSo early as 1308, they date their present laws concerning the \nAlpine pastures, and know that so long before this time that \nthere is concerning it no record or tradition, here the shepherds \nfed their flocks. One can scarcely believe that those almost \ninaccessible heights and frightful gorges are measured and al- \nlotted with the exactness of a field or garden, and yet every \n\n\n\n64 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nCOW has her appointed hill-top, and a goat may, at his peril, go \nbrowsing beyond his neighbour\'s limits. In different cantons \nthe Alps are subject to different laws ; in some, as in Uri and \nSchwytz, belongmg to the whole land, or as in XJnterwald to \ncommunes and individuals, and the different pastures have names \naccording to their respective merits. \n\nThe term Alps is not applied in Switzerland to all the moun- \ntains as we see it in books and hear it from strangers. Here it \nis used to designate the pastures, and they are divided into Fore- \naljps and Higkalps. The high Alps are the loftiest verdure-clad \nmountains, where the cows can remain only six or seven weeks \nin the middle of summer, and in some places only three or four. \nThese are considered the best for milk cows. The fore Alps are \nthe pastures lying along the base of the mountain, and in which \nthe cows remain for some weeks before and after their sojourn \nin their summer residence. \n\nIndividuals who own Alps either use them exclusively for \ntheir own cattle or rent them to those who have none, receiving \nfor each cow a certain amount of money, or a certain quantity \nof milk, butter, and cheese. The pastures owned by communes \nare exactly measured and rented to so many cattle as can be \nnourished within the prescribed limits. For instance, so many \nsquare rods are considered necessary for a cow, and so many for \nan ox, a goat, a sheep, a horse or colt. The value of the land \nand animals is estimated, and a fixed interest paid for each. \nAccording to the amount of interest are the agreements con- \ncerning the building of the huts, furnishing the apparatus for \nmaking cheese, etc. If the interest demanded is small, the \nshepherd is expected to provide these himself ; but if he pays \nonly a small interest, the owner of the pasture furnishes at least \na portion of the conveniences. \n\n\n\nUNTERWALD. 65 \n\nThe persous who take care of the herds have names for which \nthere is no equivalent in other languages. The principal person \nis denominated a Senn. He remains always by the hut, and \ntakes the whole care of the milk. The Vice- Senn is next in \nrank and honour, and attends to transporting the products of the \ndairy, to supplying the establishment with fuel, and all that \nthey need extra in the way of food. The third person is a sort \nof Valet, who waits upon them, and runs here and there, goes to \nthe valleys, if necessary, and does all the cleaning outdoors and \nwithin the hut. Besides there is a cow-boy, who runs for the \ncows, and drives them to pasture ; and if there are sheep, a \nshepherd is added to the company, who is in some parts called \nalso a Watcher. \n\nThe hut of the Alpine shepherd cannot have changed in \na thousand years, for no time, however primitive, can have \nseen it more simple than it is now. Sennhutten is the German \nword, and Chalets the French, for all those which are occupied by \ncheese-makers, whether they are large or small. Those which \nwe see on the mountain heights are of logs, notched at the ends \nto fit together, with a roof of the same, or of shingles, kept in \ntheir places by stones. They are accessible to both wind and \nrain, and having no chimney, they are black with smoke, and \nmake no pretensions to cleanliness. The milk-room is partly \nunderground, and very dark, and so constructed, that, if possi- \nble, it may be kept cool by rills of running water. In the prin- \ncipal room a fireplace is made by digging a cavity in the earth \nand paving it with stones, and through a hole in the roof the \nsmoke makes its exit, unless, driven by a contrary wind or its \nown evil propensities, it chooses to spread itself through the \nroom, which is generally the case. Over the fire is a great cop- \nper cauldron, in which the milk is always warmed before it is \n\n\n\n66 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nconverted into Swiss elieese. They put in the rennet, and stir it \ncontmually for half an hour, till it is curdled. One end of a \ncheese strainer is held over the edge of the cauldron, and with \nthe other the senn dips up the curds, drains them a little, and \nputs them immediately in the press. It is no such long process \nas we have seen in other countries, where the " milk is set over \nnight/^ and perhaps does not appear in the form of curds till the \nmiddle of the next day. The hurried process, and warming of \nthe milk, makes th\xc2\xa7 cheese hard, and give it a taste which our \npalate utterly refused to call good. By no possible training \ncould we learn to eat cheese in Switzerland, notwithstanding \ntheir great renown. In the same smoky room with the great \nkettle, stands a tub for whey and a butter-tub ; on two poles \nhang the milk-pails, and on a bench stands a pail for the whey \nthey drink instead of water. They wash the milk apparatus in \nwhey, and often even their own clothes. Dippers spoons, and \nladles lie upon a table, and there is still another tub to receive \nthe mUk, till the foam is settled. \n\nThere is a third apartment for a few pigs, which are fattened \non the refuse of the milk-room, and over this a floor for a \nsleeping-room, where all throw themselves upon hay, and can, if \nthey are sufficiently sentimental, contemplate the stars through \nthe crevices in the roof. \n\nOne senn can take care of forty or fifty cows, yet there are \nmany who have only ten or twenty. They must rise with the \nfirst ray of dawn, and with the utmost diligence cannot finish the \nmorning\'s labour till nearly noon ; and after the second milk- \ning, late in the afternoon, all is again to be repeated. The \nassistants and cow-boy must be out in all weathers ; and from \nthe day they ascend till they are fairly down in the valleys \nagain, "ihere is no rest. \n\n\n\nirNTEKW.iLD. 67 \n\nThe cheeses are everywhere of two kinds, fat aud meagre. \nInto the fat ones they put all the cream, and the meagre are \nmade of skimmed milk, or that from which part of the cream \nhas been removed. In the whole Canton of Unterwald are \nmade more than twenty thousand hundredweights of cheese every \nyear, each cheese weighing from twenty-two to thii\'ty-two \npounds, and the average price being from seven to nine dollars \na hundredweight. \n\nBesides butter and cheese they have five ,or six preparations \nfrom milk and whey, made by different processes of boiling and \ncurdling, and which they denominate Zieger, Suffi, Schotte, \nSiste, etc., and with these, many of them make all the variations \nof breakfast, dinner, and supper, which they know. \n\nIt is no slight labour to turn the great cheeses every day ; \nand the salt, instead of being put in the milk or curds, is sprin- \nkled on the outside and rubbed -in with a stiff brush. \'\' The \ncheese tastes much better," they say, " when the salt penetrates \nit from without." As it seems to us to taste horribly as it \nis, we cannot tell how much worse it would be if the salt \npenetrated it from within, though we are well aware that in \nour opinion we are differing from epicures in all the civilized \nworld. \n\nIn Unterwald the Alps are kno^vn by their names, and the \nnumber belonging to individuals which can be specified in this \nway are nearly two hundred, and those belonging to communes, \none hundred and seventy. \n\nBesides these are the Allmenden, or meadows where those pas- \nture cows who do not use the Alps, and who sell the milk in \nvillages, or which are perhaps used by sennen who remain in the \nvalleys. Still another kind are the Rieder, or marshy lands, \nwhich are worth very little ; the hay which is cut on them sell- \n\n\n\n68 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ning for fifty cents a hundredweight. They are beginning to \nmake them more profitable by draining. \n\nWe see the people everywhere on the mountains gathering \nicild hmj, which grows in places utterly inaccessible to cows and \ngoats, and which women and children reach at the risk of their \nlives. They make it into large bundles, and toss it down into \nthe valley, and then carry it on their backs to the little stalls or \nbarns, which are scattered over the hills for the purpose of stor- \ning it. There are often severe storms even in summer, when \nthe cattle cannot feed in the pastures, but must be housed and \nfed ; and often an early snow comes, which obliges them to keep \nunder shelter many days. \n\nWe have enumerated the general features of shepherd life, \nbut shall now and then allude to slight variations in the differ- \nent cantons. \n\nIn all the Alps of Unterwald one hears at early morning and \nevening the call of the shepherd to prayers. He on whom tlie \noffice devolves, stands always in the same place, and by means \nof his Alpine horn, a sort of lunnel-shaped tube of wood, rings \na pecuUar series of changes, which echo far and wide, with a \nshrillness which only the mountain air can give. The moment \nit is heard, all commence their evening orisons, which sometimes \nconsist of a few verses from the fourteenth chapter of St. John, \nor " Oar Father who art in heaven," or \'\' Praise God the \nLord." If they are near a chapel, they enter ; if not, they \nkneel upon the rocks. \n\nThe Ranz des Vaches echo from every Alpine height ; but no \nidea can be conveyed in words of the peculiarity of these moun- \ntain choruses. They are not tunes or melodies, and are not \ngoverned by the ordinary rules of music ; yet they have rules, \naud in their native air are thrilling beyond description. There \n\n\n\nUNTEKWALD. 69 \n\nis very little motion of the lips or mouth, and the breathing is \nscarcely perceptible. Their character varies in different parts \nof Switzerland, and corresponds to the character of the people, \nand also of individuals, being gay and lively, or sad and melan- \ncholy, with the temperament of the singer and the occasion \nwhich calls them forth. Sometimes two or three sing together, \nand keep time and tune, but it is not usual. It is the song of \nthe solitary shepherd on the hills, and invented not for commu- \nnication with men, but with the animals, who are his life-com- \npanions. The literal translation of the French and German \nword is cow rows, and evidently refers to the manner in which \nthe cows arrange themselves when coming at its call. Those \nwho are in the habit of marching farthest have bells, and the \nmoment they hear the kuhreih they wend their steps homewards, \nand are followed by all in a row. \n\nWhen they ascend the mountains in the spring, or descend in \nthe fall, it is the occasion of a grand fete, and they connect \nwith it all that is possible of pomp, and show, and ceremony. \nFor the largest and handsomest cow they have a large bell, \nwhich is selected with pecuhar reference to its tone, and the \ntwo cows next to her in beauty are honoured with those a little \nsmaller in size, but the tones of which are sure to chime with the \nlarger one. They will sometimes pay from twenty-five to thirty \ndollars for a set of these bells, which is more than they would \nthink they could spend for any article for theii\' own adorning. \nThese they are to wear only on fete occasions. They are hung \nupon an embroidered leathern band, and the cow whose neck \nreceives the largest, immediately exhibits her consciousness of \nher rank and importance ; and though it is removed whilst she \nroams in the pastures, the honour it has conferred on her of \nleading the row, when they are called morning and evening, she \n\n\n\n70 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALP^ \n\nnever forgets, and should another attempt to assume this prece- \ndence, a regular battle follows, which the shepherd is often obliged \nto settle by placing the bell on her neck, that all may see that \nshe is to be queen. She selects the best pastures, and beckons \nall to follow her steps. Yet it happens sometimes, that one, or \ntwo, or three cows remain during the whole summer rebellious, \nand are seen straying alone, in a way to show that they are \njealous and dissatisfied, and acknowledge not the constituted \nauthority. \n\nWhen the morning arrives for going to the Alps, the senn, in \nhis festival dress, and a milk-dipper slung over his shoulder, \ntakes the lead, singing the kuhrdh and followed by three or four \nbeautiful goats. In striking contrast comes the queenly cow, with \nher proud, conscious air, making with the two who follow her a \nseries of chimes with their clear-ringing bells, which they evi- \ndently appreciate and endeavour to regulate by their measured \nsteps. Reversing the order of nature, the lord of the troop fol- \nlows the ladies, but the milk-stool sitting high upon his horns \ngives him a distinguished air, with which he seems satisfied ; a \nsled, with all the cheese and butter-making apparatus, brings up \nthe rear, and the young men and maidens, with wreaths and gay \nribbons, dance, and eat whey and curds together, till setting \nday reminds them to descend to their homes in the valley. \n\nIn the autumn a similar fete, with additional ceremonies, \ntakes place, when the whole troop returns for the winter. \n\nThe rivalry of the cows will seem a fiction to those who have \nnot witnessed it, but it is mentioned by those who wrote hun- \ndreds of years ago, and will be confirmed by every shepherd of \nthe Alps. If they remove the bell from the queen after having \nonce placed it upon her neck, she is dispirited, and will not eat. \nIf they give it to another, she hooks her and persecutes her till \n\n\n\nUNTEKWALD. 71 \n\nit is restored. When they have all been milked, no one ventures \nto move till she has marched forward ; and when they return, \nshe is first to receive the caress of their master, who pats her \nand talks to her as if she were human and could understand his \nwords. That she appreciates his love is certain, for she will \ncross any chasm and encounter any danger to answer his \ncall. \n\nThere is still, in the whole canton, no humming factory \xe2\x80\x94 no \nsound of hammer or loom. The products of their dairies are \ntheir only articles of commerce. In the winter they are em- \nployed in felling the trees and preparing them for firewood, and \nsell every year to the amount of fifteen to twenty-five thousand \ndollars\' worth. \n\nThe cultivated land presents a curious appearance, being \ndivided into regular patches in the neighbourhood of the vil- \nlages, and rented to individuals. It may remain in the same \nfamily for centuries, who pay an annual tax for the privilege. \nThere are fields of wheat, and the usual variety of oats, peas, \nbeans, and cabbage. If one dies, or moves away, his lot falls to \nthe commune, and is rented to another. The grass-land is \nrented in the same way, but the lots are often many acres in \nextent. Since their introduction, potatoes have become the \nprincipal food, instead of the porridge which formerly appeared \nmorning and evening upon the peasant\'s table. Bread is \nimproved by spreading upon it cheese, toasted until it is soft ; \nbut its digestion is considered so doubtful, even among them- \nselves, that they call it stomach jflaister, and in a song, its merits \nare wittily satu\'ized as an invention to " hold body and soul \ntogether." \n\nThe people are entirely Catholic, and the little kettle of holy \nwater hangs, not only by every chapel and at every churchyard \n\n\n\n72 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ngate, but in every house, for the purpose of crossing tliemselves; \nthe people, however, are remarkably intelligent concerning their \nown history and government, and none are received to the com- \nmunion who cannot read and write. The law requires all to \nattend school till they are twelve years of age ; and in the high- \nschool at Engelberg.are taught the usual branches of an accom- \nplished education. \n\nReligion enters into all their fites, and these are very many. \nThe election takes place on the last Sunday in April, and with \nnearly the same ceremonies as in Uri ; the cantonal colours \nbeing white and red. They employ runners to carry into all \nparts of the canton the results of the election. \n\nTheir penalties for crimes and misdemeanors retain the simpli- \ncity of the olden time. Printed statute-books have yet no place \nin their judiciary system. They have no houses of correction \nfor their own citizens, and say they are not rich enough to sup- \nport foreign criminals who may fall among them. All who are \nconsidered incorrigible are banished, which is well for their own \nland, but not exactly " doing as they would be done by " for \ntheir neighbours. Sometimes the punishment is reversed, and \npersons are forbidden to leave the country or their own village \nfor a certain number of years. Parents who do not \'\'train \ntheir children in the way they should go," are placed upon a \nstone in a conspicuous place, with a rod in the right hand ; and \nformerly, every one who passed by was at liberty to use it upon \ntheir backs. So late as 1855, a father and mother were obliged \nto sit on this stone, with a paper fastened to them in front, on \nwhich was written, "Duty-forgetting Parents." \n\nA person who stole a lamp was obliged to remain during ser- \nvice in church, under the lamp. Two children who had been \nguilty of stealing, were placed in close confinement every night, \n\n\n\nL^NTERWALD. 73 \n\nand for three years obliged to kneel in the same place during \nservice on Sunday morning. \n\nIn 1855, a young girl who had been guilty of immorality, was \nobliged to kneel in church during three years in a certain place, \nand forbidden to leave the village on any occasion. \n\nIn 1851, a man who had with his wife been guilty of incen- \ndiarism, was condemned to solitary confinement eight years. \nThinking it unjust and too severe, he ran away to Berne, to \ncomplain of his judges. The government of Berne reproved him \nfor slandering his countrymen, and obliged him to stand on a \nstone in a public place a quarter of an hour with a gag in his \nmouth, and then to go home. The wife and accomplice was \ncondemned to sit a quarter of an hour on the criminal stone, \nwhilst the bells rans^ and the accusation was read a2:ainst her, \nand to kneel, during Sunday service, in a conspicuous place, \nwhilst the sermon was upon the sin of incendiarism ; to spend two \nyears in solitary confinement, and the next four years to attend \ndivine service morning and afternoon on Sundriy and every other \nfestival day, and not allowed to participate in any of the duties \nand pleasures of honourable citizens. Often the punishment is \nmerely to be publicly proclaimed " unworthy of respect." \nWhether it is owing to the nature of the punishments or \nthe natm\'e of the people, cannot be determined, but the crimes \nare few, and one can scarcely imagine anythmg more humiliating \nthan these simple penalties. \n\nIn 1150, before the destruction of the feudal castles, the can- \nton was divided into Obwald and Nidwald, and each had its \npeculiar customs. The cantonal arms (as the reader has seen at \nthe head of this chapter) are keys \xe2\x80\x94 in Obwald a simple one and \nin Kidwald a double one ; but in their early history they were \nalways united against the common enemy. In 1798, Nidwald \n\n4 \n\n\n\n74 THE COTTAGES OF THE AI.PS. \n\nwas left to struggle almost alone, and stood 2,000 against \n15,000 French. Being attacked at several points, and the vic- \ntory becoming doubtful, old men, women and children marched \nforth, when the enemy became exasperated and delivered the \nland to fire and pillage. Among those who fell in battle were \none hundred and two women and twenty-five children ; and the \nloss of property, from all causes, was fifteen millions of dollars. \nWhat a destruction in a country only twelve square leagues in \nextent I A sixth part of the people were reduced to beggary. \nThey were aided generally by their brethen in Obwald, and even \nby France herself after the war was over, to recover from their \nmisfortunes. And it was at this time that the renowned Pesta- \nlozzi established a school in Stanz, the capital of the canton, \nbeginning at first Tsith eighty of these orphan children. Here \nhe first tested his original method of teachmg, which soon \nspread over Europe. \n\nThe guilds are retained merely as fraternal associations, and in \nObwald one unites the members of all trades, holding only one \nannual festival. In Nidwald, the tailors and shoemakers recog- \nnize for their patron saint the Holy St. Crispin, and call them- \nselves Crisjpinians. The patron saints of locksmiths and \nweavers, and all trades that "hammer and thump," are Holy \nFrancis Xavier and Johann of Xepomuk. The Holy St. \nJoseph is the patron of silversmiths and goldbeaters ; and all \nhave their special days of celebration, usually in autumn or at \nthe time of carnival. \n\nSt. Wendelin and St. Antoine are the protectors of shepherds, \nand their fete, as we have said, is on the return of the troops to \nthe valleys. On Sunday, they place an image of their patron \nupon the altar ; a sermon is preached in praise of pastoral life, \nand they march through tlie streets with music and colours, and \n\n\n\nUNTERWALD. T5 \n\nbearing prodigious artificial bouquets. Three persons, dis\xc2\xab \nguised as "genii of the mountains,^\' sweep the streets in advance \nof the procession with great branches of pine. The origin of \nthese wild men, as they call them , is not known, but they pro- \nbably date from the time when good and evil spirits were sup- \nposed to people earth and au\' and water. They all meet at an \ninn for a dinner, when speeches are made interweaving events of \ntheir history, and the wild men make a formal present to the \nCapuchins, who are always present, of two little cheeses, weigh- \ning about two pounds, and so dry and hard that they cannot be \neaten, and receive gifts in return. After dinner, the procession \nforms again, and a distribution of valuable gifts is made to the \npoor. The second day are dances and other sports. The festi- \nval is called the " AlperkilwiJ^ \n\nThe Avresthng matches, which have become so famous, origin- \nated in Unterwald, and are still their especial national /e^e. On \nthe 26th of July and the 10th of August, they assemble upon \ndifferent heights of the Alps, and in the midst of a concourse of \nspectators perform various feats of wrestling, which require \nmuch skill and practice. There are ten methods of throwing an \nadversary. Each is allowed three trials, and he who brings his \nadversary upon his back twice in the three times, is victor. \nTheir costume is but a slight addition to that of nature, as their \nlimbs must be allowed the freest play. On meeting, they shake \nhands, and exchange congratulations and wishes of success. In \none village of Berne and one of Luzerne are held similar fetes, \nwhen wrestlers from the three cantons enter the lists as \nrivals. \n\nThere exist associations of women, who endeavor to understand \nthe spiritual and mystical, called "Gotti," and innumerable \n" brotherhoods," for all manner of study and pleasure, besides \n\n\n\n76 TflE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\npilgrimages to Einsiedeln, with banners and crosses, and the \nordinary festivals of the Catholic Church. \n\nSome legend or superstition is linked with every village, valley, \nand chapel ; and the land, not being so extensively rummaged by \ntravellers, retains more of its primitive simplicity. Engelberg, \nthey say, was formerly inhabited by evil spirits, who were driven \nforth by the angels, and thus received its name. \n\nDrachenried, near Stanz, was once the abode of a monstrous \nserpent, which became so formidable that the inhabitants aban- \ndoned the valley and gave it the name of Oedwyl, a wilderness \nor desolate place. There had lived in the land a valiant man, \nwho had distinguished himself in the wars and had been made \nchevalier, but having the misfortune to kill another in a duel, he \nwas banished, as this was then a crime, because it deprived the \nstate of a brave man. In his exile he heard of the ravages of \nthe serpent, and begged permission to return upon condition that \nhe should slay the monster. It was granted. He entered the \nvalley, attacked the serpent, and finally destroyed him by thrust- \ning a lance armed with thorns down his throat. But in the \ncombat he received a wound which terminated his own life. A \nchapel was erected to his memory, and on its walls we read. To \nStruth yon Winkelried. \n\nAt certain times in the year, the names of all those who have \nfallen in battle or the service of their country are mentioned in \nchurch, that the youth may grow up with a knowledge of the \nsacrifices which purchased them their present blessings. \n\nIn Unterwald, one misses the milestones and sign-posts which \nin other parts of Switzerland stand by every high road and \nmountain path. When we ask, *\' Why is this ?" they say, " It \nwas the ancient law, that travellers should be guided on their \nway by the people free of charge." Whether it is the law now \n\n\n\nUNTERWALD. 77 \n\nor not, it is the custom, and one they seem to enjoy rather than \nto consider a burden. \n\nIt is a continual source of wonder, why the people in the dif- \nferent cantons should be so unlike in some respects and in others \nso nearly resemble each other. There will appear now and then \na custom common to the whole country, and another confined to \none little valley or district. \n\nIn the story of the destruction of the castles, we read that \nthe surprise was effected by a young girl admitting her lover to \nher room by a ladder, and an Enghsh guide-book remarks, that \nthis is still the fashion of receiving lovers in Switzerland. Refer- \nence is had to the manner of wooing, which in some cantons is \ncalled \'^ Lichtgttrtn^\'\' in others ^^ Dorfen^^ and " Stubetegetren,^^ \nand answers to the old-fashioned going a courting in England. \nThe customs connected with it vary in different cantons, but \nexist in some form in all except two or three, which will be \nnoticed elsewhere. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER y. \n\nLUCERNE. \n\nANCIENT LAWS AND CUSTOMS \xe2\x80\x94 CITY OF LUCERNE SOCIAL LIFE\xe2\x80\x94 ASCENT \n\nOF THE RIGHI \xe2\x80\x94 ANCIENT PROCESSION \xe2\x80\x94 WEDDINGS. \n\nLucerne is the fourth of the forest cantons lying on the sea, and \nso early as t68 was known as a city. \n\nIn no country are the chronicles so abundant as in Switzer- \nland. Centuries before the art of printing was known, they \nwere in the habit of preserving a record of events, not only to \nbe placed in archives, but as heirlooms for the family. They \npresent a most curious compendium of the history of the social \ndevelopment of the people. We read not only the acts of gov- \nernment concerning \'\'state and diplomatic affairs," but its atten- \ntion to the most minute of social duties, the details of dress, and \nthe preparation of dinners. \n\nThe city of Lucerne has now a population of more than ten \nthousand, but the canton is much larger than during the days \nof its early history. The name is said to be derived from the \nLatin word lucerna, meaning a lantern, which was hung by the \nwater for the boatmen who went up and down in the night. It \nremained in possession of the monks, to whom it was secured by \n\n78 \n\n\n\nLrCERNE. T9 \n\nFrance, till the thirteenth century, when they sold twenty castles \nand bailifdoms, "with all rights and privileges pertaining thereto ," \nto Rudolph of Hapsburg. When the three cantons were at war \nwith Austria, Lucerne was continually involved in their quarrels, \ntill at length, weary of the tyranny of the bailiffs, it formed an \nalliance with Uri, Schywtz, and Unterwald, making the four \nforest cantons, which henceforth stood side by side in their strug- \ngles for independence. \n\nIt has been the custom from the earliest times to preserve all \ntrophies of victories, and to repeat the names of those who have \ndeserved their country\'s gratitude, in order to be sure that the \nchildren grow up with a knowledge of these things. Among \nthem is an old stove, which stood in the guild-room of the \nButchers in 1332, when some patricians planned to deliver the \ncity to the Austrians. A little boy had heard their plot acci- \ndentally, but was made to swear that he would not reveal it ; \nyet, determined to save his country, he escaped and ran to the \nguild-room, where several butchers were assembled, and without \nspeaking to any one made the following address to the stove : \n" stove, I say to thee, that there are armed men, who plot to \nmassacre all who counselled alliance with the three cantons. I \nhave sworn to tell no person, so I make thee my confidant, O \nstove I" The alarm was immediately given, and the city saved. \n\nThe battle of Sempach was on their soil, and never a year has \nfailed to see it celebrated with all due pomp and ceremony. \n\nThe whole canton is Catholic, and some eight or ten monas- \nteries still exist, though many have from time to time been \nsecularized by the government. \n\nLucerne took the lead in the war of the Sonderlund in 1847, \nin opposition to the Federal Government ; and was for many \nyears governed herself by an oligarchy, composed of patricians. \n\n\n\n80 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nwho oppressed the people and kept the country subject to the \ncity. But in 1848 they submitted to the new Federal Govern- \nment, and revised their own constitution after the most demo \ncratic model. \n\nThe Jesuits endeavoured to obtain possession of the schools, \nbut were expelled by a majority of the people ; and the state \nhas ever kept the priesthood in subjection, in defiance of all the \nthunders of the Vatican. In 13 tO, in order that the clergy \nshould not be controlled by any foreign power, a law was \nenacted requiring every clergyman to swear "to consult no \nforeign judge, either spiritual or worldly, on penalty of losing \nall protection of the law and all the enjoyments and privileges \nof society." In 1609, a tax was levied on all ecclesiastical pro- \nperty, against which the Pope, priests and cloisters protested ; \nyet the government remained firm, and so late as the eighteenth \ncentury, we read of the clergy being pubhcly reproved and \npunished by law, in spite of a bull from Rome. Yet the people \nare not less devotedly attached to their religion than their free- \ndom, and would defend both with their lives. \n\nThere is a school in every commune, and in the city various \ninstitutions for pursuing the study of the higher branches of \neducation. The fine arts are more cultivated than in any other \ncanton, and music and painting diffused more generally among \nall classes of society. \n\nThere is more affability in Lucerne among the people, and \npleasant reunions for sociality are more common than in the other \ncities. They are said to have originated in 1690 by a family \nwho had three sons in France in military service, and who, when \nthey returned, introduced Parisian habits. They had every \nweek little unceremonious parties, and dinners upon the same \nprinciple, where eating and drinking were not the one grand con- \n\n\n\nLTJCERNE. 81 \n\nsideration, but conversation and innocent amusement. We read \nin their chronicles, that before the year 1700 they began to \nhave curtains to the beds and windows \xe2\x80\x94 to have mirrors and \npictures in the parlours, and the chairs cushioned and painted. \n\nSpecimens of the old houses without chimneys, and roofs with \nshingles and great stones, and little panes of glass a few inches \nin circumference, are still to be seen ; but the new ones are \nlarge, with good fireplaces and windows, which make the rooms \nlight and pleasant. Everywhere in these four cantons the walls \nand ceiling overhead have panels instead of plaister, and are \npainted white, or pink, or yellow, according to the taste of the \nowners. The paint is often of the most beautiful brilliancy, \nshining like glass, and gives a remarkably neat appearance, as \nit is more easily kept clean than paper or stucco. \n\nMeat is not yet common among the country people, except on \nSundays and festival days. Oatmeal porridge was formerly a \ngreat dish, and the usual breakfast and dinner of the peasantry; \nnow they add roast potatoes and milk, and among those in com- \nfortable circumstances, coffee is drank three times a day. For \ndinner they have potatoes, fruit, pear or apple sauce, bread and \nmilk, and sometimes in the evening bread and cider. \n\nIt was a Spanish minister who introduced coffee in the \nseventeenth century, and sugar was known immediately after- \nwards. Tea is not mentioned till 1666, but beer so early as \n1590, and is now very common everywhere. In 1687 it is \nrecorded they began to drink tobacco, as it was then universally \ndenominated, instead of smoking, and the peasantry are always \nto be seen with a pipe in their mouths, the same as in Germany. \n\nThey are not an entirely pastoral people, but a portion of \nthem are devoted to agriculture ; and great enterprise has been \ndisplayed in draining marshes and bringing water to irrigate \n\n4* \n\n\n\n82 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nsandy soil. In 1806 the Lake of Sempach was dug many feet \ndeeper, to win land upon its shores ; and since then two or three \nothers have been brought into narrow limits in the same way. \n\nThe canton is twelve leagues in length and ten in breadth, and \nthe cattle within its limits are estimated at about fifteen hundred \nthousand, and the cheese at five hundred thousand, dollars. \nThese cantons, on an average, are not so large as the counties \nin the different States of America, yet what a population of \nmen and animals is concentrated within their boarders ! Every- \nwhere are to be seen great fields of rye and great orchards of \nfruit, and the modern improvements in agriculture are very \ngenerally adopted. \n\nThere are more manufactures than in the other forest cantons, \nthough not so many as in Zurich, but several for gloves and \npaper, and in the country the leisure is devoted to braiding \nstraw. \n\nThe first printing-press in Switzerland was established in Lucerne \nin 1410, and from here one was transferred to Paris by a Swiss, \nin whose honour the French hold a fete every year at Sarbonne. \nThe guilds no longer exist in the canton except as associations \nfor improvement and the convenience of festivals, every person \nbeing allowed to make shoes or print books, sell tape or dis- \npense " apothecary stuff," according to his taste or interest ; \nand the forests are also free to all who wish to hunt. \n\nWe ascended the Righi from the village of Weggis, which \nbelongs to Lucerne, though from its position one would think it \nshould belong to Schwytz, as do all the other points from which \npaths lead, culminating at the top. Our guide was the personifi- \ncation of good nature, and had a bright intelligent face, so that \nwe chatted with him for very pleasure. Those were his father\'s \ncows in the pastures through which we passed, and the merry \n\n\n\nLUCERNE. 83 \n\nchime of their bells inspired him to sing for us the Ranz des \nVaches, and the echoes rang far and wide among the hills. \nThey did not make cheese, but sold the milk, as the number of \ncows they owned was not enough to make it the most profitable. \nHe owned two horses, on one of which we were being jolted \nand jagged ; and did scarcely anything else in the summer but \naccompany travellers on the mountain. \'\' And what do you do \nin the winter ?" we asked, " I cut wood to sell." \xe2\x80\x94 " Do you \nown a wood-lot?" \'\'Yes; several." \xe2\x80\x94 "Have you a wife?" \n\'\' Yes, eine Frau und drei Kinder" (a wife and three children). \n\xe2\x80\x94" And what do they ?" " My wife spins cotton sometimes \nand combs silk." This we afterwards heard was the employment \nof many in this village, where there are pretty cottages with \ngreen blinds ; a three-story schoolhouse, also painted white ; \nand blooming gardens, in which flourish chestnuts, almonds and \nfigs, because they are sheltered from all winds in a little niche \nof the mountain. The silk is brought from Italy, and dis- \ntributed in all the forest cantons to be prepared for the weavers \nof Zurich and Bale. We see people with great packs of it on \ntheir shoulders, or hanging by the windows in hanks, threads \nand snarls of it lykg on the floor, as we have been accustomed \nto see tow, and this we may also see in Lucerne. \n\nAbout half a mile from the top of the mountain is the \nChapel of Maria, of the Kalt-lad, derived from a cold spring, \nwhich bursts from the earth near by, called the Sister^s Born, \nand concerning which the legend says, that in the time of \nWilliam Tell, three sisters fled from the tyranny of the Austrian \nbailiff, and hid in a cave on the Righi. Not even the shepherds \nknew of their concealment. They lived on roots and berries, \nand drank water. In the valley they were quite forgotten, and \nbelieved to be dead. But one day three stars appeared over^ \n\n\n\n84 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthis place and stood still, filling the heavens with their bright- \nness. They visited the spot, and found the bodies of the \nsisters. \n\nA peasant once saw a dragon flying from the Kighi to the \nPilatus, and something monstrous fell from under his wings. He \nwent to the spot and found a large stone, which to this day has \nwonderful healing powers. \n\nThe Pilatus is still higher than the Kighi, and more won- \nderful in its history and traditions. By the people it is \nbelieved to derive its name from Pontius Pilate, whose re- \nmorse drove him to this solitary place, whence he plunged into \nthe lake. It is the special abode of pigmies, dragons, and evil \nspirits. \n\nAt one time there lived on one of its heights a rich man, \nnamed Klaus. He had a poor cousin, whose daughter, Magda- \nlen, came to him one day, saying her mother was sick, and \nwanted a piece of cheese. He refused, and sent her away. \nShe had a lover, named Alois, who kept his herds on a neigh- \nbouring hill. She went to hun, aiid he gave her all he had ; \nbut as she descended a steep, she made a false step, and her \ncheese went rolling to the bottom of the valley. She sat down \nand wept bitterly ; but a slight pull at her sleeve caused her to \nlook up, and she saw a little man in a green coat and long \nbeard, with a piece of cheese on his shoulder, and some moun- \ntain-weed in his hand. It was the hour of twilight, and he \nspoke softly to her, and said : "I know what has happened to \nyou ; take this cheese, and make of this weed a tea for your \nsick mother, and she will be well. Be patient, and you will \nhave your cheese again." He vanished, and Magdalen hurried \nhome to her mother, for whom she made the tea, and saw her \nimmediately restored to health. When they cut the cheese, \n\n\n\nLUCEENE. 85 \n\nthey found it gold. With this, they purchased large Alpine \npastures. Magdalen became the wife of Alois, and they lived \nto see the old miser as poor as they had been. \n\nThe stories are innumerable of the revenge of the pigmies upon \nthose who hurt chamois and catch fish in the lake. A bailiff of \nLucerne, in 1592, swore on his conscience that he had always \nlonged to see a pigmy ; and one day, when he was fishing for trout \nat the foot of the Pilatus, something jumped upon his neck and \npushed liim in the water, saying, " You also destroy and drive \naway my animals." He succeeded in reaching the shore again, \nbut was always lame. \n\nThe steamers which ply on the lake belong also to a com- \npany in Lucerne. They are very pretty and neatly finished. \nThe captain of one of them told us that they take on an average \nabove five hundred dollars every summer from passengers alone. \nTo go through from one extreme of the lake to the other, \nmaking the usual stops by the way, requires five hours, and \nthere are four daily boats. In winter, there is only one, for \nthe mail. The captain said his salary was equal to four hun- \ndred and thirty dollars a year. \n\n"We experienced here one of those instances of exaction for \nwhich the people have become so famous, and which impartiahty \nrequires us to record, though those instances were few, as far \nas we are concerned. \n\nHaving walked about the city, we arrived at the boat before \nsome other members of our party, and wishing to be sure to see \nthem the instant they appeared, we seated ourselves on the por- \ntion of the deck devoted to second-class passengers. Yery soon \nwe were rudely ordered to rise, and the bench was taken away. \nWe moved to another quarter, and soon received the same com- \nmand in the rudest accents, accompanied by the rudest manner. \n\n\n\n86 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThey pretended to need all the deck for some horses, which were \nbeing transported also over the St. Gotthard. At length we \ntook a movable chair, and made ourselves comfortable in a \nlittle nook by the stairs. From this we were almost pushed \noverboard, and at the same tune informed that only first-class \npassengers were allowed those seats. We now for the first \ntune understood the motive of so much insolence. From \nstrangers they expected the first-class price, and determined to \nhave it by obliging us to go to the first-class deck. This was \nproved soon afterwards by some peasants taking the same seats \nand retaining them unmolested. We had not thought of re- \nmaining among the horses, cows, and Bauersleute, any longer \nthan till our friends should arrive ; but not liking compulsion in \na matter which should leave each person free, we determined to \nremain, and demanded a seat. It was granted : but when the \nfare was collected, we were presented a first-class ticket, and only \njust before we were to land, so that there was no time for \nparley or proof. Besides, no person would think of resisting a \nsecond time in Switzerland, whatever injustice he might experi- \nence, unless he was willing to stay for a regular court trial, \nwhich, we have no doubt, would decide justly even to the utter- \nmost farthing. But the people have lost none of their warlike \npropensities, and in all their quarrels, with one another or with \nstrangers, their first impulse is, to " knock everybody down." In \none of the Zurich journals we saw a remonstrance against the com- \npany who manage the Berne and Thun Kailroad, which forms a \nline with the boats to Interlaken and through the Lake Brienz. \nThe custom was to give return-tickets to persons making excur- \nsions, and these had been refused. In the course of the discus- \nsion it came out that they had made a mistake. Their usual \ndiscrunination had failed, and they had denied to some of their \n\n\n\nLUCERNE. 87 \n\nown countrymen an accommodation they intended only to \ndeny to strangers. \n\nWhile our fairylike boat is dancing on the waters, we are \nreminded of a grand nautical procession which took place on \nthis same little lake more than two centuries ago, when a depu- \ntation was sent from Lucerne to meet the representatives from \nUri, Schwytz, and Unterwald, who were to have also in their \ncompany the deputies from Yalais, to form or to cement their \nfederal alliance. It was the grandest affair for those times of \nwhich we find any record, and the remembrance of it is still hon- \noured among their festivals. \n\nIn two large boats embarked the honourable members of the \ncouncil and servants of the government. In twelve smaller ones, \nbearing the names of the twelve months of the year, were other \ndistinguished persons ; and as a guard of the little flotilla, two \nhunting ships. The officers on board each wore the federal \ncolours, and upon the ships of honour were twelve little boys in \nthe oldest costume of the country, and long plumes waving from \ntheir little black caps. Flags w^ere flying upon every tower and \npinnacle of the city, and six hundred soldiers stood upon the \nbridges and wharves to fire salutes upon their departure. In the \nmidst of great rejoicings they set sail, the two hunting ships in \nfront, followed by the first ship of honour, and six of the second \nrank. Then the second ship of honour, with the remaining six \nin its rear. So they sailed to the little town of Altstadt, where \nthey met their guests, who immediately came on board, and they \nreturned, having the large ships in the centre, with the six \nsmaller ones forming a half moon on each side. \n\nOn arriving again on shore a procession was formed with ban- \nners and music, conductmg them through all the streets, the \nlittle boys always in front. For supper they were disposed in \n\n\n\n88 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntwo hotels with six members of the council in each party. The \nnext morning, at six o\'clock, all were again in grand procession, \nwith trumpets, and drums, and music, on their way to the colle- \ngiate church, to consecrate their alliance by solemn religious \nceremonies. The banners of seven states were arranged round \nthe altar, which was also beautifully decorated. The music was \nperformed by eight instruments and a choir of voices, and twelve \npieces of artillery announced the commencement of service. A \nsermon was preached by the high priest, and then the oath \nadministered to the deputies with their hands on the holy book. \nWhen this is finished the bells peal forth, the artillery is again \nfired, and a Te Deum sung, and the procession again moves \nforth to the Council House, w^here the long mantles of the \nmagistrates are removed by servants, and they descend to the \ncornhouse underneath to partake of the grand dinner given on the \noccasion. Here in a great hall are sixteen tables set wholly with \nsilver. Nothing can be more curious than the details of such a \ndinner, but we have rooms for only a few. The servants were \nsome of them merely to occupy posts of honour in different parts \nof the room, and others to wait and tend. In all, they num- \nbered twelve hundred and seventeen ! \n\nThe guests remained three days, and the dinner was every day \nequally sumptuous. The several courses are chronicled with all \nthe minutiae of venison, fish, and poultry. The items of one \ndinner will give an idea of an entertainment of this kind in those \neconomical times when people did not spend their money fool- \nishly, but lived in beautiful simplicity I \n\nFirst dinner \xe2\x80\x94 first course. \n\nTwenty-two principal dishes ; side dishes, two peacocks, twelve \nWelsh hens, eight English pies, twenty-four boiled capons with \nsausages, twenty-four dove-soups, twenty-four tongues with sau- \n\n\n\nLUCERNE. 89 \n\nsages, twenty-four marrow tarts, twenty-four mixed dishes of \nveal, twenty-four of venison, twenty-four of fowl, and twenty- \nfour of beef. \n\nSecond course. Six Welsh pies, twelve large stuffed stag- \njoints, eight joints of venison, twenty-four roast capons, twenty- \nfour dishes of roast fowl, twenty-four of game, seventy-two \ndishes of something of which we can by no inquiry or study \nlearn the name or composition, twenty-four dishes of salad, \ntwenty-four of plums. \n\nThird course. Six plates of sugar-work, consisting of two \ncastles, two triumphal arches, and two wall-fish ; eight cold \ngame-pies, eight fancy puff-cakes, twenty-four almond tarts, \ntwenty-four of crabs, twenty-four of sugar-bread, twenty-four \nof candy-confectionery, seventy-two of different sugar-work \ncakes. \n\nTo each course were two hundred and fourteen dishes, besides \nthe wine and beer, and each day saw an equal number. When \nthe " gracious Herren " had been feasted three days after this \nfashion, and the whole city had been put in requisition to do \nthem honour, they returned home, no doubt highly gratified \nwith the attention paid them ; if not, they must have been very \ndifficult to please. \n\nThe number of festivals in modern tunes has somewhat duni- \nnished, but there are still very many. \n\nThe Kirchweih or church consecration, which is still celebrat- \ned in some form in all Catholic communities in Germany and \nSwitzerland, we find to have been of much more consequence in \nthe early times, and to have cost the city every year eight hun- \ndred dollars. isTow it is reduced to a simple procession and \ndance. \n\nThe shooting festivals originated in 1452 and continued till \n\n\n\n90 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthe seventeenth century, when they were allowed to fall into \ndisuse ; but in the eighteenth century they are again revived in \nmore than their original consequence. \n\nNew Year\'s day is scarcely noticed. Christmas, which is \neverywhere else celebrated on the 25th of December, is solem- \nnized in Lucerne on the 6th, Michaelmas Day \xe2\x80\x94 for what reason \nwe cannot learn. Those who go from house to house to inquire \nconcerning the behaviour of children, are a procession of boys, one \nof whom is arrayed as a bishop, accompanied by two angels, \nfollowed by a person dressed in black with his face painted of \nthe same colour. He carries also a black bag, and threatens \nall naughty children to tie them up and carry them off. But \nthis is being superseded by the simple custom of placing gifts \nupon a table to surprise the httle folks in the morning. \n\nThe harvest, threshing, raising and taking possession of a new \nhouse, are marked by some festal scene. \n\nNearly all the peasant-marriages take place at carnival, and \nmost of them also on Monday. If they come from a neighbour- \ning village to church, the bells announce the arrival of the pro- \ncession, and a curious spectacle of old and new-fashioned vehicles, \nwith people in all manner of gala dresses, presents itself. The \nbride enters first with wreath and white apron ; an old woman \nfollows her, who is mistress of ceremonies, and who is called \nGdhe, or yellow woman. She has on her arm a basket, in order \nto take the bridal wreath after the ceremony. Next come the \nwomen of the party. Behind them is the bridegroom in a black \nmantle, his hat in his hand and a little knot of flowers on the \ntop of his head ; then the men of the party. Mass is said, and \nmusic gives the signal for the bridal pair to stand before the \naltar. After being pronounced husband and wife, they return \nto an inn for merry-making, which is commenced by the bride- \n\n\n\nLUCERNE. 91 \n\ngroom dancing three times with the bride, when the ydloio \nwoman takes the bridal wreath and bouquet of the bridegroom \nand throws them upon the fire, and derives from the manner m \nwhich they burn an omen of happiness or unhappiness for their \nfuture hfe. She then presents each guest with a pocket-hand- \nkerchief from the bride, and receives for her gifts in return. \nThey each drink and are merry till night, when the immediate \nneighbours accompany the bride to her new home. She is then \nconfided to the yellow woman, who remains a long time with her \nin secret council, and fulfills the office oifemme de chamlre. \n\nThe Kiltgang is the universal mode of wooing ; the lover \nvisiting his betrothed in the evening, to be pelted on the way by \nall mischievous urchins ; or if he is seated quietly with her by \nthe winter fire, they are sure to be serenaded by all manner of \ncat voices under the window, which are continued till he issues \nforth, perhaps at dawn in the morning ; and however long may \nbe a courtship, these caterwaulings are the invariable attendants, \nand not the most lamentable consequences of those nightly visits, \nrecognized, however, as entirely respectable and conventional in \nevery canton. \n\nBut there is one custom, which is pecuho.r to Lucerne, and \nwhich is mentioned in the oldest descriptions of the people. \nLike many another, it is also confined to one part of the canton, \nand distinguishes the people of Entlibuch in the southern limits, \nwhere they are said to be the livehest, wittiest, and gayest of \nall the people in Switzerland. They indulge in a continued \nseries of gymnastics, theatricals, masquerades, and poesies. \nThey quarrel very often, but make peace again immediately, \nbecause they do not like the interference of courts and lawyers. \nBeing given to amusmg themselves at others\' expense, they learn \nalso to bear ridicule without anger. \n\n\n\n92 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nAfter divine service on the last Monday of carnival, they \nassemble before the townhouse in each commune to listen to a \npoem, which is recited by some village wit, and the special \nobject of which is to satirize the follies and foibles of any per- \nson who may have subjected himself to such reproof ; and often \nit is many, instead of one, who see themselves thus portrayed. \nNo names are called, and the whole may be a caricature, yet \neach one recognises himself, and is at the same time recognised \nby all. The poet arrives on horseback in some strange cos- \ntume, and wearing a great hat ornamented with flowers and \nlooking-glasses. The magistrates receive him and offer him wine \nas testimony of honour. He then descends from his horse, and, \ntaking from his bosom a large paper bearing the seal of Entli- \nbuch, begins his recital. However severely any one may be \nlashed, he makes no demonstration, but the orator is said to \nmake sure of his way home before the sun has set ; else he may \nexperience tangible proof of the revenge of some luckless swain. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER YI. \n\n\n\nZUG. \n\n\n\nPLEASANT CUSTOM CHURCHYARD FIRST BATTLE FOR FREEDOM \xe2\x80\x94 HOME \n\nSICKNESS OF SWISS SOLDIERS \xe2\x80\x94 "WITCHCRAFT \xe2\x80\x94 FORMS OF PUNISHMENT. \n\nZdg is a " very little city," so small that one can scarcely believe \nit has the honour to be an " independent republic." On the map \nit is altogether an invisible power. One enters its territory, \nand, before he can think, is out of it, unless he decides to stop \nby the way. This almost any one would be tempted to do who \nshould happen to be greeted in their friendly way, in some lone \nplace, without knowing that it is the custom, and practised the \nsame for all. \n\nWherever they meet a stranger they offer him the hand, and \nin so cordial a manner that one is troubled to know how to \nreceive it. Our first experience of it was when walking in the \nstreet, as some httle girls came running out of school, and one \nafter the other each offered her hand, looking very playful and a \nlittle mischievous, as if they thought it were an old fashioned \ncustom which we should not understand, and yet which they \ncould not neglect. We did not understand, to be sure, but \n\n\n\n94: THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthought at first they were little beggars asking for pennies, but \nsoon learned that thej were little friends, who knew us at a \nglance to be strangers, and gave us this pleasant welcome. We \nreturned it as cordially, and they ran skipping, and hopping, \nand laughing, away. But it is something to be treasured for \never in the memory, and disposes us so kmdly to the people that \nwe are in danger of shutting our eyes to all their faults. \n\nThere is a quiet cheerfulness in their manners, which is differ- \nent from the gaiety of Entlibuch and the vivacity of the inhabi- \ntants of the Muottathal, but which is not less charming. They \nare Catholics, like their neighbours, but less superstitious, though \nnot less devout. The cemetery testifies to the honour they pay \nthe dead, and the taste which characterizes the living. Almost \nevery grave is a flower-bed, kept always in the freshest bloom, \nand the gilt cross which marks its head is hung with wreaths. \nEach grave has also some testimonial to the honourable birth and \ncondition of those who repose beneath. They have adopted for \ntheir government one which gives the utmost freedom, but have \nlost none of their respect for \'\' old families." This is observable \neverywhere in Switzerland, and in some cases amounts to most \nridiculous inconsistency and folly. There can be no sin and no \nharm in possessing a long line of noble ancestors, but, as Bulwer \nsomewhere says, \'\' It is the founder of a family who is most hon- \noured," he who by some striking and noble deed first won renown ; \nand it is equally true, that it is often the last of a noble name \nwho least deserves respect. \n\nIn this little churchyard armorial bearings are to be seen \nupon the humblest tomb. There is here no such rushing tide of \nhuman events to wash away the past with its memories as we \nsee in the New World, and no such opportunity to acquire in- \nfluence in a new way. They therefore cling to the old, and rest \n\n\n\nZUG. \n\n\n\n95 \n\n\n\ntheir pride on what their fathers did, instead of doing something \nfor themselves. \n\nIt was the soil of this little canton which first received the \nbaptismal blood of freedom at Morgarten ; her sons have \never been among the bravest in every land, and she has gone \nhand in hand in all things with the forest cantons, yet, from \nsome reason, she is far less known, and her name appears not so \noften in song and story. \n\nThere are still ruins of old castles on the mountain crests, but \nthey have shown a utihtarian spirit we have not elsewhere ob- \nserved, in transferring the stones of one to build a school-house \nin the city. It is composed almost entirely of the old walls of \nHiinenburg, and has stood in its present form and capacity since \n1114. The story of the destruction of Waldenburg is related \nelsewhere, but there is another version of it among the traditions \nof the people, which shows equally the rudeness of the times and \nthe hatred of those who ruled over them. \n\nThe servant was one day sent to market to buy meat. When \na piece was cut for him, he said it was not such an one as would \nplease his master. The butcher asked him to mark the place \nfrom which he should take a slice, and his hand was no sooner \nstretched forth in obedience to the request than it was severed \nby the axe and thrown with the meat into the basket. " Isow, \nsee if that suits your lord," was the injunction with which he \nwent howling home. The Lord of Waldenburg swore vengeance \nagainst the city,*but the time was past when his oaths caused \nthe people to tremble. He was himself afraid, and fled to Zu- \nrich, taking care to conceal his way by having the shoes on his \nliorse\'s feet turned backwards. \n\nAt the battle of Sempach the might of Austria was broken^ \nand the familv of Hiinenburg, which was also that of Walden- \n\n\n\nyb THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nburg, hung no more together. Many laid aside their family \nname and became burghers of the city, and others emigrated to \ndistant lands. Having lost their importance, they preferred \nnot to remain where they would be reminded of their lost power, \nand sold all that was left to them, to become exiles and stran- \ngers in the homes of their fathers. \n\nIn Zug, the people bought the land inch by inch. Every one \nwho contributed became a member of the commune, and those \nwho had no money gave a bed, a kettle, a little grain, some \nclothes, the most trifling objects they could part with, the small- \nest piece of coin, it was the price of their freedom ; and the \nnames of women and little children appear on the list of those \nwho would thus purchase themselves for ever free from feudal \ntenure. \n\nIn 1435, a third part of the city was submerged in the sea. \nA slight shock from an earthquake had previously produced \nlarge fissures in the walls, and made the houses tremble, so that \nthe people had left the shore of the lake ; but, no further evil \nconsequences ensuing, they returned one day, and the same \nnight the water covered them. The superstitious said \'*\' fish \nhad undermined the foundations," and the story is not yet quite \nobsolete. A cradle was found floating on the water the next \nmorning with a little boy lying snugly in its pillows, unconscious \nof the calamities which had deprived him of home and friends, and \nequally so that he was not rocking for his own pleasure on the \nwaves. He afterwards became mayor of the city. \n\nWar and pestilence have also swept over them, and from the \nbattle of St. Jacob, to which two hundred had gone from Zug, \nnot one returned. But nothing could wean them from the love \nof arms ; and it has been often the case, that so many have been \nabsent in foreign lands that not enough were left to till tbe soil \n\n\n\nzuG. 97 \n\naud perform the necessary niechanical labour. Of the two thou- \nsand, eight hundred who went into the service of Yenice against \nthe Grand Turk in 1688, all but one hundred and seventy-eight \ndied of pestilence and horae-sickness. They were not allowed to \nform separate corps under their own colours, and it broke \ntheir hearts. Zurlauben, the leader of one brave company of \ntwo hundred men, came with nineteen and a soiled banner \nhome. \n\nThe same custom obtains, as in the forest cantons, of repeat- \ning in church at certain periods the names of those who had \nfallen in battle, or on any field died gloriously. \n\nThe home-sickness, of which we read in the regiments of France, \nwas not confined to them alone. In every country they pine for \nthek mountains, and the Ranz des Vackes, when sung on the \nplains of Italy, or to the time of the " gondola\'s dipping oar," \nhad the same influence as in the gardens of Paris. They would \nbecome emaciated, and in a few days exhibit all the effects of a \nlong illness. It is a wonderful proof of the power of mind over \nbody ; for there could be no affectation in their case. It was a \nprostration which they could not control; but often the assurance \nthat the next day they should have the money to go home, gave \na man strength to rise and walk. The musical Kuhreihen has no \nwords ; but one who has seen the Alpine shepherds with their \nflocks can easily imagine the thoughts that would accompany the \nnotes in a foreign land. An English poet has clothed them in \nthe following rhymes : \n\n\n\nOh, when shall I visit the land of my birth, \nThe loveliest land on the face of the earth ? \n5 \n\n\n\n98 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nWhen shall I those scenes of aflfectioa explore, \nOur forests, our fountains, \nOur hamlets, our mountains, \nWith the pride of our mountains, the maid I adore \nwhen shall I dance on the daisy-white mead, \nIn the shade of an elm, to the sound of the reed? \n\nII. \n\n" When shall I return to that lowly retreat, \nWhere all my fond objects of tenderness meet? \nThe lamb and the heifers that follow my call. \nMy father, my mother. \nMy sister, my brother, \nAnd dear Isabella, the joy of them all ? \nwhen shall I visit the land of my birth, \n\'Tis the loveliest land on the face of the earth ?" \n\n\n\n** Ah, when shall I see once more \nAll the objects I adore ! \n\nOur limpid rills, \nOur hills, our vills, \nOur mounts sublime ! \nPride of our clime, \nThe so gentle Isabeau ! \nBeside the Elm \xe2\x80\x94 beside its flow. \nAgain when shall I on the ground \nDance to the reeds\' delightful sound ? \n\n\n\n" Ah, when shall I see once more \nAll the objects I adore \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nMy father, my mother. \nMy sister, my brother \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n\n\nzuG. 99 \n\nMy lambkin\'s caress \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nSpread over the mead, \nMy flocks at feed \xe2\x80\x94 \nMy shepherdess ! \nAh, when shall I see once more \nAll the objects I adore ?" \n\nThe canton is but little more than ten square leagues in \nextent, and yet has a population greater than TJri, which is \nfour times its size ; and they are nearly all a pastoral people. \nOn many of the old houses are quaint inscriptions and hideous \npaintings, which contrast strangely with the modern hfe of the \npeople. There are few traces of the ancient costume, except on \nfete days, when the maidens appear in their green petticoats and \nred stockings, with knots of ribbons and gay streamers, and the \ndance does not interfere with their religion, or jar with their \ndevotions. Theu\' festivals, and the principal features of life, are \nthe same as in the forest cantons ; but in the days that are \npast, those dark days of superstition and ignorance, the \nlittle Zug was even more guilty than they, in accusing falsely \nand inventing tortures. \n\nThe belief in witches is the most marvellous of all human \ninfatuation ; and the funeral pile of the Hindoo, and the crush- \ning wheel of the Juggernaut, have no more revolting history \nthan the dungeons and guillotines of every Christian land in the \nseventeenth century. It was not enough that they were cut off \nby the sword, by famine, and pestilence, they were murdered by \nhundreds on their own free soil. In the course of two months \nin the year 1660 more than two thousand were burnt for this \nimaginary crime in this one little canton. \n\nIn 1*137, a weak-minded young girl, only seventeen years old, \nreturned from a visit to Lucerne, where she was honoured by a \n\n\n\n100 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nconference with the Jesuits, and represented herself as a witch. \nThis gave her the power to testify against others, and in conse- \nquence of her base assertion, ten persons were condemned to \ndeath ; eight of whom were women, one aged seventy years and \nanother only eighteen. Six of them were burned or strangled \nafter having their flesh torn with glowing tongs. Those who \nconfessed themselves guilty, experienced sometimes an alleviation \nof their punishment. One old woman, who would not confess, \nwas thrown into a dungeon little better than a grave, where she \nwas also put to the torture, and where she finally died of cold \nand hunger. \n\nMany of those instruments of torture are still to be seen, and \nit is not very many years since some of them were used, though \nnot to punish witchcraft. The rooms are still in the darkness \nof night. No ray from without penetrated them when witches \nwere their tenants, and neither the beams of day nor the light \nof Christian sympathy and knowledge have ameliorated the con- \ndition of those who are now condemned to punishment in the \nold " Kaiben tower." The cells are a sort of wooden chests, \nperfectly dark; and in order that the criminals who occupy them \nmay preserve no knowledge of time, those who bring food, and \nwho must necessarily have a lamp or candle in order to grope \ntheir way, are commanded to enter at irregular hours, but to \ncome all seasons of day and night, till there is to the miserable \nvictim no more morning, no sun nor moon, no brightness and no \nshadow, only one long dreary duration. One can almost ima- \ngine the wheel and the thumbscrew to be pleasant relief to such \nan existence. \n\nThese creditable inventions of the golden age of simplicity are \nstill here ; and also a sort of basket called the " witches\' tub,\'\' \ninto which they were crowded and screwed to indescribable \n\n\n\nZUG 101 \n\nanguish. There are also the great timbers for crushing, the \npulleys for adjusting the apparatus in the nicest manner, and \nthree great stones, the largest two hundred pounds in weight, \nfor suspending to the limbs as a last resort for those who would \nnot confess themselves guilty of a crime of which they knew not \nthe meaning. The bastinado is also here, but the wreath of \nii\'on spikes, and the boards for stretching the body, and the \ncramping-irons to fasten it, are considered unworthy the patron- \nage of modern philanthropists. These punishments are for those \nguilty of ordinary misdemeanors ; incorrigible criminals are sent \nto Zurich, and formerly many were transported to the galleys \nof Italy. Not long ago, a man was chained to the walls of his \nown house ; and yet Zug is not a day\'s journey from Berne, \nwhere exists a prison^ so perfectly combining punishment with \nhumanity and reform. \n\nThe cantonal colours of Lucerne, Zug, and Zurich are the \nsame \xe2\x80\x94 ^blue and white \xe2\x80\x94 but differ in the arrangement. In Zug, \na blue stripe passes through a field of white on their shield, and \non the Landweihd the dress is blue around the shoulders, and \nbelow entirely white, with a blue stripe down behind. The \nelection takes place on the first Sunday in May, and the Lau- \ndamman remains in office two years. The age of citzenship is \nnineteen years, and though entirely Catholic, they do not allow \ntheir monks any part in the affairs of the government. The \nprincipal articles of their constitution date to the fourteenth \ncentury ; and in 1814 they were peremptory in demanding that \nit should be written, in order to feel secure, and their constitu- \ntion is now one of the best in Switzerland. \n\nThere are nine parishes and four convents, in which are edu- \ncated many priests for the rest of Switzerland. The gu\'ls in the \nCatholic cantons are said to be more universally educated than \n\n\n\n102 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nin the Protestant cantons; though this education is very limited. \nThey are taught to read and write by the nuns, and many kinds \nof needlework, which is certainly better than nothing ; and we \nhear it very often asserted that they are also more moral. The \nreason of this may be, that the standard of housekeeping and \ncomfort is not so high. They do not wait till they are rich, or are \nsure of a competence, before marrying; and this is true of every \ncountry, and especially of cities. Where society demands, of \nall who are passable, a certain style in order to move in a certain \nrank, those w^ho cannot afford it preserve their rank and sacri- \nfice their honour. \n\nFrom Zug there is also a large emigration of young men to \nother cantons, who wish to engage in trade or industry for whiclj \nopportunity is not furnished at home. They have always dis- \ntinguished themselves as soldiers, and have furnished a creditable \nnumber to the ranks of authors and men of letters. There are \nnot so many in the forest and central cantons as in the north and \nwest, but yet none of them are without theh\' artists, poets, and \nhistorians.* It was Louis Pfififer, a Smss general, native of \nLucerne, who, with his six thousand soldiers, saved Catharine \nMedicis, her son, and all the royal household, and led them \nsafely from Manx to Paris. It was a native of the same canton \nwho made the first dictionary of Swiss dialects, and another who \nproduced the first bas-reliefs of Swiss scenery, now so common. \nOne of their musicians was master and composer to Prince \nConti, and another, in 1*120, was one of the best organists of \nEurope. \n\n* A book has just been published in Zurich, " Lives of Distinguished Men, Natives of \nSwitzerland," which we commend to those who think Switzerland has produced no \ngreat men. It is curious that so many pens should have set to work this last year to do \njustice to the little republic. \n\n\n\nzuG. 103 \n\nIn Canton Scliwytz, among their heroes the name of Reding \nis most conspicuous, and some one of the family distinguished \nhimself in every Swiss battle. One of them also made a memo- \nrable address at the Council of Constance. The learning of \nParaclese was nearly unparalleled ; and the volumes of Ray- \nmaun are still invaluable to those who would write of ancient \nhistory and diplomacy. The poets and painters are also nume- \nrous. We find in the Kves of nearly all these men remarkable \nand interesting incidents exhibiting their moral heroism in over- \ncoming obstacles, their struggles with poverty, their sufferings \nand trials in painful positions, which are the surest proofs of the \ngenius which inspired them. Our plan and limits do not /admit \nof our relating these things, but so much we cannot help seeing \nand saying, that the air of republicanism is not the miasma it \nhas been represented, blightmg to every germ of talent, and \ncovering with mUdew all the fruits of genius. It cannot be true, \nbecause it is contrary to all the laws of God and nature, that \nfreedom should not be a healthful sustenance for the soul of \nman. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER YII. \n\n\n\nVALAIS. \n\n\n\nCROSSING THE FURKA \xe2\x80\x94 RHONE GLACIER \xe2\x80\x94 INN \xe2\x80\x94 MANUFACTURIES AND AGRI- \nCULTURE \xe2\x80\x94 LOVE OP LIBERTY \xe2\x80\x94 CRETINISM. \n\n\n\nThe ancients used to say, the Rhone came " out of eternal \nnight," but we know now that it comes from three little \nsprings more than five thousand feet above the sea, but which \nunite and soon disappear under the great mass of snow and ice \ndenominated the Rhone Glacier, which lies between the Geters- \nhorn and Galenstock, two towering peaks, which limit YalaLs in \nthe northeast. \n\nIt was on one of the hottest of summer days that we crossed \nwhat is called the Furka Pass, and about three o^clock in the \nafternoon, on our way westward from Andermatt, in Canton \nXJri, that our guide said to us, " You can take a last look at \nthis little village, for you will not see another till to-morrow \nnight." We knew that we were to cross one of the longest and \ndreariest of the Alpine passes, and knew, of course, that there \ncould be neither fruitful plains nor laughing valleys on the tops \nof the mountains, nor in the gorges between them ; yet it \n\n104 \n\n\n\nVALAIS. 105 \n\nsounded almost like a death-knell as we heard it, and looked \naround to say farewell to the little huts, among which nothing \nwould have tempted us to stay, if we could never have the \nhope of reaching another of the dwelling-places of men. The \nhills were not yet bare ; there was now and then a tuft of \nshrubbery, some trees looking as if it were a winter\'s instead of \na summer\'s day ; and grass, that was tall enough and green \nenough to tempt the mower\'s scythe ; for it was being cut by \nmen and transported on the backs of women from every knoll \nand crevice to their distant winter homes. \n\nBut even these pleasant oases soon disappeared ; our horse \nwas moving at the slowest possible pace to which four feet \ncould measure their steps ; the sun, which had been at midday \nfiercely hot, was beginning to look pale and dim ; no living \nthing was to be seen to vary the monotony or break the still- \nness, except the httle form of our young companion, who, \nwith his long alpine stock, jumped over ledge and rock, and \nclimbed the dizziest heights, while we were plodding along the \none narrow, unvarying path ; the mountains grew more grand \nand terrible in their height, and the gorges more fearful in their \ndepth, \xe2\x80\x94 we could very easily have believed that we should never \nmore reach human habitation. \n\n" Are there any more difficult heights than these ?" we ask \nof our machine-looking old guide, who says he has been this \nway with this same horse every week for ten years. " Och, ja \nwohl," he replies ; \'\' these are nothing ; these are no mountains \nat all," \xe2\x80\x94 upon which he stops and pats affectionately his good \nhorse, sees if his shoes are fast and the saddle is right, asks us \nif we are weary, and jogs along. What is he thinking, we \nwonder ; he does not look as if he ever had a thought ; yet he \nknows every mountain by its name, every tradition and legend ; \n\n5* \n\n\n\n106 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nand this being his duty as guide, he stops at every point and \nrepeats them. Now and then we must ford a mountain torrent, \nwhich comes foaming and dashing on the way to its bridal with \nthe Rhone far away in some distant valley. We should demur \nand decline all such adventures, if it were longer of any use ; \nbut having put our \'* hand to the plough," there is no turning \nback, though the courage has every moment to receive a new \nspur, in order to be equal to the exertion. \n\nNow and then we meet a lone traveller like ourselves, and it \nbecomes a question who shall run the risk of rolling over into \nthe gulf below, by turning out where there is scarcely room for \nthe hoofs of one horse ; or perhaps a merry party, reminding \none of the caravans of the desert, where lords and ladies, tents \nand baggage, are being transported from city to city by sedans. \n\nAt length we reach the Furka height, some eight thousand \nfeet above the sea, and scarcely feel that it is the middle of \nAugust, where the snow is lying in drifts and the frost is upon \nour eyelids. The red roof of the little inn looks cheery without, \nand the bright fire blazmg within is genial, but for the sake \nof recording it in our note-book, we go out and enjoy a game, \nat snowball, putting our cheeks in a glow, which the good wine \nof the innkeeper heightens, and also helps to increase our \npowers of endurance to the point of another three hours\' ride, \nto which we are compelled before we can find lodging for the \nnight. \n\nWe soon learn, that the mountains we left behind \'\' were no \nmountains at all," and resort to the precaution of drawing our \nample capuchin closely over our eyes, to shut out the dizzy \ndepths, till at length the great glacier appears, and the Rhone \nflowing quietly out from some unfathomable vault beneath the \nmassive arch. It is only a murmuring brook ; but before it \n\n\n\nVALAIS. 107 \n\nreaches the lake it is joined by eighty more, which swell it to a \nmighty stream, and during the melting of the snows cause it to \noverflow, to the destruction of whole villages, which are never- \ntheless immediately rebuilt on its banks, as neither landslide nor \navalanche, flood, fire, nor famine, ever frighten the Swiss from \ntheir mountains or their villages. \n\nIt is the most gloomy vision imaginable to come in view of \none of these crevasses, just as darkness is covering it with her \nsombre shadows. The snow is not the pure white of a winter \ndrift, but as if a spring thaw had just spread her dingy mantle \nover it ; there is not a tree or shrub or spke of grass on all the \nsurrounding heights, the cold is that of blue November on one \nof her moodiest days, and we are chilled as if a March wind \nhad penetrated every pore. It is grand, but it is also terrible, \nand we shut our eyes. \n\nWe cross a little bridge and find ourselves in the midst of a \nherd of shaggy goats, before the door of the little inn. Alas ! \nthey say there is no more room, and we say also, " We have no \nmore strength, and it is akeady dark. If we sleep with the \ngoats, you must find for us a lodging-place." When, indeed, \ndid it ever happen that an inn, great or small, was filled to its \nutmost capacity ? They succeeded in finding us " accommoda- \ntion," if it deserves the name, where everything is the perfection \nof all that is dismal and forlorn. \n\nWe ascend by a ladder to the corner of the garret, where, by the \nhelp of Uanket-shawls and other conveniences, we enjoy a "room \nto om\'selves," and learn in the morning that three persons who \ncame after us were also in the same way "accommodated." \nNext to an inn, there is nothing which can be expanded and \ncompressed, moulded and twisted, into so many useful forms as \na blanket-shawl. It is the Tie. plus ultra of inventions. Ours \n\n\n\n108 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nserved as altogether the most impenetrable partition-wall to oui \napartment ; for in the others, which were boards, were so many \nimitation crevasses that we were haunted all night by Jack-d*- \nlanterns and Will-o^-tke-wisps. From our window, of four lilliputian \npanes, we looked down upon the snows which the summer suns \nof centuries had never melted, heard the rushing waters as they \nexultingly burst their icy bands, the bleating of the goats \xe2\x80\x94 who \nseemed to be disturbed in their midnight slumbers, or never to \nenjoy any \xe2\x80\x94 and the incessant creaking of the rickety house, and \nfootsteps of those who are certainly night-walkers, if not som- \nnambulists. The dust of the downy coverings performs for our \nnostrils the office of cayenne pepper or black snuflf, and the cold \ncould scarcely have been greater if we were lying upon, instead \nof at the foot of, the glacier. Yet we sleep, and wake \'\' in the \nmorning early," with a health of body and an exhilaration of \nspirits it was never our fortune to experience after a night upon \n"velvet couch with silken curtains gay." \n\nWe look forth, and now it is a sight worth all the trouble, \nand pain, and anxiety, we have been at to behold it. In Can- \nton Yalais alone there are one hundred and thirty glaciers, and \nthis is said not only to be the most beautiful among them, but \none of the most beautiful in Switzerland. The lower part has \nthe form of a cataract suddenly frozen, while its crown is com- \nposed of Gothic arches, fanciful colonnades, peaks, spires, -and \nstalactites, on which the sun is shedding a flood of golden light, \nreflecting, in myriad fantastic shapes and changing shadows, \neach glistening point and proud pilaster. Like some grand \ncathedral-dome, the Galenstock rears its head, and forms a dark \nand solemn relief, and the cloudless blue of the vault above \ncasts over all the soft hues of peerless beauty. We walk out to \nstand by the cradle of the \'\'little Rhodanus,\'\' fretting like an \n\n\n\nVALAIS. 109 \n\ninfant in its swaddling-clothes, and reflect, as we often do by the \npillows where rests an immortal mind, " What a terrible power is \nslumbering there, unconscious of the glory and majesty it is to \nreveal \xe2\x80\x94 of the good or the evil it has the power to bring to a \nworld teeming with human life I" \n\nYery httle indeed does the proud river know of the happiness \nit scatters in the valleys through which it winds, or the misery \nit causes when it rushes wildly over meadow and moor, tearing \ndown forests and sweeping away villages in its course. But not \nonly the Rhone itself, but many of the rivers which flow into it, \nalso cause avalanches and floods, so that throughout the canton \nthese are the occurrences of every year, destroying millions of \nproperty and hundreds of lives. \n\nThree or four miles from the Rhone glacier is the village of \nObergestein, which is the place of deposit for that portion of \nthe Gruyere cheese which is destined for Italy, and also where \nthe four little mountain paths meet which lead over the passes \nmost dreaded by travellers. Here occurred, in 1720, an \navalanche which enveloped eighty-eight persons in its snowy \nwinding-sheet. Upon the tomb in which they were afterwards \nenclosed, is inscribed : O Dieu ! Quel deuil .\'88 dans un seid \nsepulchre ! \n\nBesides floods and avalanches, there are frequent earthquakes. \nIn 1855, in a little village where the Wisp falls into the Rhone, \nthey were rocked several months, till finally only seven houses \nwere left habitable, and the damages extended hundreds of \nmiles. \n\nEven the Simplon does not escape the ravages of the moun- \ntain torrents, and in 1834 and 1839, nearly eight miles were \ndestroyed, many bridges swept away, and in some places every \ntrace of the beautiful structure effaced. \n\n\n\n110 \n\n\n\nTHE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\n\n\nThere is every variety of climate, from the torrid zone tc \nSpitzbergen, and seven-eighths of the plants pecuhar to the \nclimate and soil of Switzerland are to be found within its \nlimits. Yet the people are in many respects far behind those \non the north side of the mountains, though it cannot be from \nthe reason that their resources are insufficient, if rightly used. \nOne reason they give themselves is, that the miUtary service, \nwhich has drawn so many of their youth to Rome and Naples, \nhas been the death-warrant of home industry. There is no \ncapital for the commencement of enterprise, and they do \nnothing by associations themselves, and allow nothing to be \ndone by others. \n\nThere is no department of manufactures in any flourishing \ncondition, and even the braiding of straw, which the government \nintroduced a few years since, found not sufficient favour in their \neyes to spur their hands to diligence, and there was no con- \nvenient market for the sale of their wares. \n\nIn the summer, three thousand are employed in the Alpine \npastures, and for all who remain, agriculture is the only labour. \nIn this they have latterly made some advances. Lands long \nheld in common, and free to cattle, have been divided and \napportioned to those who would cultivate them. For many \nyears the potatoes almost failed, and this led them to the culti- \nvation of maize in the southern portions, where it is waving, if \nnot in its pristine magnificence, at least in respectable size and \nproportions, the silver tassels peeping out from goodly ears that \nare afterwards converted, not into "Johnny cakes" and " brown \nloaves," but mto something that might answer to " hasty pud- \nding," or " mush." \n\nThere are also many sunny hill-sides clothed with vines, and \nthey are beginning to cultivate the mulberry. Within a few \n\n\n\nVALAIS. Ill \n\nyears, specimens of beautiful glass have been produced, and ic \none village a paper factory has been established. \n\nIn some parts there is no deficiency of talent, as many \npainters and sculptors evince, and in others no deficiency of \nenergy, as their marvellous little canals for the irrigation of their \nlands fully prove. One sees them everywhere in the valley of \nthe Rhone, running across the hills, conducted over ravines, and \npassing through solid rocks for miles, till they reach some dry \nand parched plain, where Uttle lakes are formed, from which \nsluices convey the water where it is needed. With them, as \nwith others, " Where there is a will there is a way." \n\nBut their wants are few, and, like the people of IJnterwald, \ntheir devotions many. There is a peculiar beauty in their rustic \nchapels ; and one may meet in every path the pilgrim on his \nway to shrine or temple, or with folded hands kneeling before \nsome image of saint or Yirgin, with an air of sincerity and faith \nwhich is always beautiful, whether in pagan or Christian. But \nif our inquiries or philosophy follow them elsewhere, we cannot \nhelp wishing there were less zeal and more knowledge. \n\nIt is always a difficult matter in Catholic Switzerland to \nreconcile this apathy in then* practical affairs \xe2\x80\x94 this trust in their \nreligion \xe2\x80\x94 with the energy and defiance they manifest under the \nslightest political control. The Pope in his palmiest days was \nnot allowed to meddle in their elections, and princely bishops \nhave been dethroned for endeavouring to impose upon them a \nbailiff against their will, or to restrain them in the exercise of \ntheir right of free suffrage. \n\nThe expression, now common in all lands, " the people rose \nen masse,^^ originated in Yalais, from the curious manner they \nhad of rising to redress any grievance which they considered as \nimposed upon them by those in authority. Whatever might be \n\n\n\n112 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nhis position or office, the person who had become obnoxious was \nrepresented in effigy, by taking the trunk of a tree and fashion- \ning a rude head at the top, and setting it in a pubUc place, \nwhere it was christened by the name of masse, which in German, \nFrench, and English has the same signification \xe2\x80\x94 a heap or bulk \nof something. But the people treated it as if it had really \nhuman understanding, and either by some machinery, or by a \nperson concealed within its huge proportions, it was made to \nshow signs of intelligence. The secret of this, however, was \nknown only to a few. \n\nThe populace assembled, and some person appointed addressed \nhimself to the image, asking, " Of whom hast thou to complain ? \nIs it Baron B. or Lord L. ?" \xe2\x80\x94 always being sure to mention the \nname they were preparing to execrate. The masse bowed his head \nvery low in assent, and the people uttered loud cries of rage and \nvengeance. They then drove a quantity of nails into the trunk, \nthough we do not learn for what purpose, or what they were to \nsignify, unless it was crucifixion, and bore it aloft, followed by \na triumphant crowd, and placed it before the door of the person \naccused or hated. He understood, without further communica- \ntion, that his fate was sealed, and took refuge in flight, thus \nrenouncing all future pretensions to power or influence among \nthem. If he attempted any resistance, his house would be des- \ntroyed, his property seized, and his partisans killed. \n\nIt is a cm\'ious fact, illustrative of the manners of the Middle \nAges ; and not less curious, that the phrase should have crept \ninto every language, and the custom, in some modified form, \nhave characterized the revolutionists of every period and nation, \nwith a similar expression denoting their popular outbreaks. \n\nIn the German portion of the Canton Yalais, they keep these \nold times in remembrance by dramatizing them, with the peo- \n\n\n\nVALAIS. 113 \n\npie for actors, and very likely the village curate for stage \ndirector. \n\nThe Reformation made some converts among them, but a \npopular assembly in 1603 decreed that the new doctrines should \nnot be preached, and banished all who had adopted them. \n\nIn 160t, the Jesuits were estabUshed as teachers in the col- \nleges of Brigue and Sion, and continued there for more than \nthree centuries. In 184*1, after the war of the Sonderbund, \nthey were banished from all Switzerland by the Federal Govern- \nment. 1^0 Jesuitical school, college, or association, can exist \nwithin the hmits of the twenty-two cantons. Against this \nmeasure there was much remonstrance and many rebellions, and, \nwith the suppression of the convents of Argovie, caused great \nalarm to the Catholics, but they have finally subsided ; a new \nconstitution, satisfactory to all, has been completed, and a new \ncode of laws promulgated instead of that which had existed for \ncenturies, and which was written in Latin. \n\nPublic instruction is now the care of the state. Every com- \nmune is obhged to support a school, and all children are com- \npelled to attend till the age of fifteen, and a cantonal normal \nschool educates the teachers. It is only ten years since this system \nwent into operation, and there are already three hundred schools, \nand nearly fourteen thousand children attending them. There has \nnot yet been time to educate a generation, but they are begin- \nning fully to appreciate the benefits to be derived from schools, \nand make constant efforts to improve them. N^o canton has \nsuffered more than Yalais fi\'om the ravages of foreign arms, and \nwhen we take into account all the calamities which they are \ncontinually experiencing, we cannot marvel so much at their \nignorance and poverty. \n\nA lordly bishop still rules at Sion, and is the ninetieth who \n\n\n\n114 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nhas sat in the same chair. His power is somewhat restricted in \nlater years, as he is now the subject of the state, and elected by \nthe Grand Council, but his influence is scarcely less over the \npeople. There are, besides, seven convents of different orders. \nThe one at St. Bernard is known to all travellers who cross the \nmountains at that place, and many do so on purpose to see the \nold monks and their dogs, who have charge of it. It was esta- \nblished in 962 by St. Bernard, of Menthon, archdeacon of \nAoste, who endowed it and placed there monks of the order of \nSt. Augustine. Those of the same order live there still, only \nabout twenty residing constantly at the hospice, others, sup- \nported by the institution, exercising hospitality at St. Jou or \nJovet, another mountain pass, and others at Simplon ; when \nthey are old and sick they resort to Mortigny, and some are \ncurates in villages. \n\nThere can be no life more self-sacrificing and benevolent \nthan that of the monks of St. Bernard, as most BngUsh tourists \nknow. \n\nNapoleon crossed by the Great St. Bernard, and it was the \ntoils and losses he experienced which decided him to construct \nthe Simplon, on which thirty thousand men were sometimes \nemployed at once, and the expense of which was about twent}\'- \nseven thousand five hundred dollars per mile. It requires three \ndays to traverse it from Montigny to Milan, and its breadth is, \nthrough the whole distance, from twenty-five to tliirty feet. Yet \nthe army of Napoleon III. strewed it with the sick and dying on \ntheir march to Italy in April, so intense was the cold, and so \ndeep the snow, and the obstructions so many, though art had \ndone all in her power to smooth the way. Thirty thousand \npersons pass over it every year, and as many over each of the \nothers ; and if the whole olrject o^ travellers is to see fine \n\n\n\nVALAIS. 115 \n\nscenery, they can be sufficiently gratified on either of these great \nchaussees, and need not cross glaciers or climb precipices, at the \nperil every moment of sacrificing their lives. But there is a \nfascination about the mountains, or a spell in the atmosphere, \nwhich, when once experienced, seems irresistible, and to act like \na magnet or charm. "We have met persons who have spent \nevery summer for years in pedestrian excursions in Switzerland, \nwithout having passed a week in exploring any other land. And \nthere is certainly an exhilaration which one would gladly reahze \nfor ever, if it were possible. We doubt whether misfortune or \nevil tidings of any description would exert the slightest depressing \ninfluence on the spirits anywhere between five and eight thou- \nsand feet above the sea. \n\nBut the evils of sickness and deformity are nowhere more \ndeplorable than among these same mountains and valleys. The \nvictims of Cretinism and the goitre are the most revolting objects \nour eyes ever rested upon, and they are to be met oftener in \nYalais than any other canton. But philosophers have discovered \nthe causes in the unhealthy position of certain villages, from \nmarshy lands or stagnant pools, where the mountains prevent a \ncirculation of air, increased by want of nourishing food and \nignorance of physical laws. But there is no mention of these \nunfortunate beings in the valley of Aoste when Caesar conquered \nit and Augustus founded a colony there. Their beauty and \ntheir valour were a marvel to the Roman general. \n\nNeither are these two frightful forms of disease peculiar to \nSwitzerland, as some people imagine. We met a young lady \nwho ran to the glass every morning the moment she awoke, to \nsee if she could discover any enlargement of her throat, and \nanother who measured her neck every night, to be sure and flee \nthe moment there was any danger. But in England alone there \n\n\n\n116 THE COTl\'AaES OF THE ALPS. \n\nare thirty thousand people in the different stages of idiocy ; and \nin the village of Pelcham, on the Danube, there were found five \nhundred men not able to bear a sword. \n\nGoitre seems to be only a physical calamity, a hideous roll of \nflesh protruding from the throat till it sometimes reaches the \nground, and is so burdensome that the person afflicted with it \ncannot walk uprightly. Cases Of it are frequent in some coun- \nties of England, South America, and some islands of the East \nIndies. Switzerland being the most travelled, is most exposed \nto observation and censure. \n\nOne of their physicians, in a treatise upon the subject, says, \n"Is it not a far higher proof of civilization to provide for the \nhappiness of our lowest and worst people, than to decorate our \nstreets with galleries, statues, and monumental trophies ?" The \ninstitution established at Interlaken for the reception of Cretins \nhas performed many wonderful cures, produced great amehora- \ntion in obstinate cases, and more than all, perhaps, led to in- \nquiry in other lands, attracted the attention of physicians and \nphysiologists to these and other maladies, and thus proved a \nbeacon light to the world without, though within there seems \nonly the blackness of darkness. \n\nThe history of the establishment is well known. It stands \nupon a high peak called \'\'Abendberg,\'^ " mountain of the setting \nsun," and originated with a young professor in Zurich Uni- \nversity, Guggenhuhl, who resolved to devote himself to the \nstudy of medicine with reference to the relief of this miserable \nclass of human beings. They do not attempt a cure unless the \npatient is received before the age of seven years. The remedies \nare bathing, exercise, amusement, and especially the influence of \npersonal kindness and interest. It must be the noblest mind \nand the purest heart that can devote a life to such labours ; \n\n\n\nVALAIS. 117 \n\nthere is something so repulsive in the idiotic stare and vacant \nsmile, united with the deathlike pallor and the absence of all \nappreciation on the part of the recipient for weeks, for months, \nperhaps for ever! We could not help exclaiming, \'\'If there \nare angels in human form, here they are, ministering to these \nwretched creatures !" \n\nWe saw a cat painted bj a Cretin, who had this one talent \nand taste, and executed his portraits to the life, without the \nslightest sense or understanding concerning any other earthly \nthing. Of course his malady was only partial ; but most of \nthem have only the power of motion and the instinct which \nprompts to eat and drink ; and there must be a universal re- \nformation in Yalais in all their domestic habits before they can \ndeserve to be called Christian or civilized, notwithstanding their \nchurches and works of art, their poUtical freedom, and their \neducation. Many of the most distinguished generals in the \nFrench and Itahan armies have been Yallasians, and not a few \nhave attained eminence in science and Idles lettres. \n\nThere is also in some valleys a remarkable type of beauty, \nboth in men and women. But one wishes there could be a \nmission established for teaching housekeeping when the homes \nare exposed where these same people live. The contents of any \nrespectable pigs\' trough would be more palatable than what \nthey concot, to say nothing of the utensils, where an old woman \n.wears a leathern apron, and whilst wondering what is her pro- \nfession with such a costume, looking as if flood and fire would \nbe the best ordeals to which to subject it, we behold her gather- \ning its stiff folds in one hand, whilst the other acts as egg-beater \nto a mass of yolks she has poured therein. We afterwards \nlearn this is her common pan for all purposes of stirring, mixing, \nand beating for the various compounds they make in exercising \n\n\n\n118 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthe culinary art ; and certainly no invention could expect to \nprovide for a greater economy of labour. Yet a pretty maiden, \nwho is taught cooking in this way, wears a hat which costs \nperhaps from twelve to twenty dollars, the foundation being \nItalian straw, and the trimmings all manner of ribbons and \nflowers, crimped, and plaited, and folded in a way to use the \ngreatest possible quantity of material. They look very jaunty \nand coquettish, and set off their pretty faces to perfection, which \nthey seem to know very well. Whether knitting or netting, \nbraiding straw or breaking flax, tending silkworms or spinning \nthread from little wheels, which they carry about, there is a \ngrace and litheness about them quite different from the gayest \nand prettiest on the northern side of the mountains. Not the \nless conspicuous is it in the little beggars, who will kiss the hand \nto you in the most gracious manner before extending it for \npennies, or they throw you a bouquet, or arown you with a gar- \nland, or sing a song, for which they expect a reward, and which \nyou find it very difficult to refuse. \n\nThey have a curious custom in several places of amassing \ngreat stores of certain kinds of provisions, in order that when \nthey die there may be sure to be enough for a feast for the \nmourners. And when they go far down in the plains and vine- \nyards for the vintage or to gather fruits, if one dies they do not \nbury him in a strange land, but place him on a mule, and when \nit is night travel slowly homeward, stopping now and then to \npray around the unconscious companion whom they escort. \n\n\n\n\ni^Jt\xe2\x80\x94 \n\n\n\nCHAPTER YIII. \n\nVAUD. \n\nCHEESE SOCIETIES \xe2\x80\x94 UNION DAIRIES \xe2\x80\x94 WINE-PRESSES \xe2\x80\x94 BLACKSMITH\'S SHOPS \n\xe2\x80\x94LACE-MAKING \xe2\x80\x94 VINTAGE FESTIVAL OF VEVAY \xe2\x80\x94 SHEPHERD SONGS. \n\nYaud is the pattern canton in all that concerns agriculture and \nthe interests of rural affairs. With her originated almost every \nimprovement ; and possessing a climate which exhibits every \ndegree of heat and cold, her soil is also various, and prompts \nexperiments. A half-century ago she did not produce one third \ngrain enough for her 150,000 inhabitants, and now produces \nmore than enough for nearly 200,000. Yet they continue the \ncustom of allowing a portion of the land to lie fallow, not every \nthird, but every sixth year, especially in the northern parts of \nthe canton, but not as in the olden time, without exercising judg- \nment, and departing from the rule at any time if it seems best. \n\nThe principle of association enters into all their operations, by \nwhich the poor are made rich, and the rich not impoverished. \nKot only the village cheese-press, but the threshing machine, the \nwine-press, the sheepfold, the bakery, and the blacksmith\'s shop \narc conmion property; and when a family is too poor to pay for \nthe use of any machine, it is granted free, upon the principle \n\n119 \n\n\n\n120 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthat the prosperity of one is the prosperity of all ; and if one is \nallowed to suffer, the detriment extends directly or indirectly to \neach member of the community. \n\nUnion dairies were not formed till the nineteenth century, and \nnow there are 433 in this one canton, and they exist more or \nless extensively in all. In New England, families which possess \nfew cows have the custom of exchanging milk, in order to make \nlarger and richer cheeses than could be made with the small \nquantity of one. Here, the custom was exactly the same, till by \ndegrees the whole village, and sometimes cities, became partners \nof a cheese society. \n\nThey build a house, and furnish it with cauldron, cheese-tubs, \npails, dippers, ladles, and all necessary apparatus, and hire a \ncheese-maker, paying him with a certain portion of cheese and \nwhey. A committee is appointed to superintend the details, \nkeep an account of all expenses, inspect the arrangements, to be \nsure they are neat, and to attend to all the interests of the asso- \nciation, each member contributing to the expense in proportion \nto the number of cows which he has. The milk is sent to the \ndairy twice each day, the average quantity of each family being \nascertained, and the laws of the association not allowing any to \nbe sold elsewhere. The quantity of cheese is of course appor- \ntioned according to the milk furnished, and the association \nattends to the seUing and repayments. \n\nIf others wish to join, they pay a slight entrance fee, accord- \ning to the capital of the association and the milk they send ; and \nif the society dissolves, everything is valued, and each one remu- \nnerated according to his portion of the expense at the begin- \nning. \n\nIn the country of vineyards the wine-press belongs to the com- \nmunity, and the sum which each one pays is fixed either by law \n\n\n\nVAUD. 121 \n\nor custom, the rich paying generously and the poor nothing. A \nman whose wealth is in vineyards will perhaps have a press exclu- \nsively his own. We have seen such an one in a large building, \nthe cellar of which was devoted to tuns and hogsheads of wine. \nThe grapes were pressed in the mill, and the juice conducted to \nthe lower regions by means of a pipe, thus saving the labour of \ntransporting it. \n\nThe bakeries are the same as in Germany,* except that they \nare not government institutions. In some places the bread \nis kneaded at home, and merely baked in the common oven ; and \nin others the meal is furnished and all the labour performed by \nthe baker, who is paid according to agreement, often with \ndough, and sometimes depending entirely on the generosity of \nthe Frauen for whom he moulds and bakes. As they look very \ndoughty, and quite content with their position in life, we must \nconclude the dough is not dealt to them in mean proportions. \nThe poor often pay nothing, and it is becoming more common to \nbake in famihes, thus allowing a greater variety, which is a want \none feels sadly when a common oven furnishes all the bread. \nThe difference is greater in Switzerland than in Germany in the \nquality produced in different places, perhaps because it is not all \nmade by the same government receipt. There was scarcely any \nresemblance between the deUcate little Irods of Berne and the \ngreat loaves of Zurich, yet they were both good. In Glarus it \nwas horrible, and in Graubiinden still worse, yet in each village it \nwould be different. \n\nIn districts where wheat is extensively cultivated, threshing \n\n* We do not mean to imply that in Germany the government has any pecuniary \npartnership in the baking, but that it is licensed, protected, and cared for by the gov- \nernment, and the price of bread fixed by law. In Switzerland it is a voluntary asso- \nciation with which magistracy has nothing to do. \n\n6 \n\n\n\n122 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nmachines are common, are owned by the commune and rented, \nmoved by water and sometimes by horse power, as the labour \nof men is needed in the other departments of agriculture at the \ntime of threshing. \n\nThe sheep-associations employ a shepherd, usually a little boy, \nwho has the care of so many sheep, the number depending upon \nthe nature of the pasture. This belongs sometimes to a society, \nand sometimes to the commune, and is rented to as many sheep \nas it will nourish ; and if those who belong to the association \nhave not enough, they take a few to hoard; and in this, as in \neverything else, there is the same beautiful care for the poor. \nEach association is sure to have room for a sheep or two of a \nwidow or some unfortunate family who are depending upon the \nwool for their winter clothes, and yet own not a bit of land. \nThe wool, flesh, and milk belong to the association ; and the \nshepherd is paid by contribution. \n\nThe village blacksmith is also common property, receiving a \nsalary, and shoeing horses and mending ploughs according to \nprices fixed by law. In this way he is sure of a competence, \nand every village is sure of a blacksmith ; and being entirely a \nvoluntary arrangement between the parties, must be entered \ninto, because in this way they secure the greatest good with the \nleast trouble and expense. \n\nNot the least useful among these attempts to promote the \ncommon good are the life insurance companies for the cows. In \nsome places horses are included, but the greatest number are for \nthe horned creatures. The company is formed after the manner \nof those which insure the lives of people, and so much is paid \nfor each cow according to the original capital, and an annual \ntax as may be required or agreed upon. The treasury is for the \npurpose of meeting exigencies, and in some communes amounts \n\n\n\nVAUD. 123 \n\nto so large a sum that the interest alone is suJBficient to indemnify \nfor all annual losses. If these are very great, from any special \ncause, a contribution or tax is assessed. \n\nThe rules of indemnification vary among different companies, \nbut it is usual to pay two-thirds of the price of the animal if it \nis a cow ; and if a horse, only one-half. A valuation is made \ntwice a year, but sometunes so much is paid a head, without \nreference to the price of the animal. In communes where there \nis a forest, wood is often given in compensation for losses or a \nsum of money, or so much per cent. If a poor man loses a \ncow, the society makes him a present, which, with the sale of \nthe skin and horns, shall equal the full value of the animal. \nPecuniary aid is also granted in cases of misfortunes from other \ncauses. If any difficulties occur, they are settled by arbiters. \n\nAmong some families there will be also a common plough, or \nthey hire one for the little time they wish to use it. \n\nThe instances are not rare of poor families receiving a bit of \nland, enough for a house and garden, with timber to build, and \nassistance in making it habitable. \n\nBut they are not an agricultural people only. Their watches \nkeep time with those of Geneva, and their laces rival those of \nFlanders. But nearly all who are engaged in mechanics are the \ndescendants of the French refugees, of whom six thousand settled \non Lake G-eneva, after the Edict of Xantes, and brought with \nthem their skill in various branches of industry. A single shop \nin Lausanne sends twenty thousand pairs of gloves to Paris, \nwhere ladies buy them for Parisian and think those by any other" \nname cannot possibly/^. They are made by the skilful fingers \nof the peasant girls in the surrounding country. \n\nIn the valley of St. Croix are seven hundred kloppers, \nweaving the delicate meshes of thread-lace, which must also pass \n\n\n\n124 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthrough a Parisian shop in order to become sufficiently distingue \nfor a lady of quality. Dresses, shawls, and veils are also the \nwork of their hands, and in all the varieties are employed nearly \nfour thousand women. Their wages are nearly the same as \nthose of the embroiderers in St. Gall and Appenzell. They \nweave into the braids of their hair a red ribbon, and draw over \nit a network, that softens the tints and adds to the charm ; and \nin their dress and in their homes there is the neatness of those \nwho have not only the means but the inclination to improve in \nall things. \n\nHere are also manufactured pretty flower-baskets, and some \nfifty thousand music-boxes, every year. The tongues of the \nlace-makers move like their kloppers, and those who make music \nby machinery are disposed also to make it with their voices. Is \nit owing to their labour, or to the air and the sunshine, that \nthey have become celebrated for their lightness of heart and \nblitheness of spirit ? Some would answer, " To their French \nextraction ;" yet in another village, not very far distant, those \nwho had the same origin look like so many people in a galloping \nconsumption. One would as soon expect a pearl as a hon-rnot \nfrom their lips, and will certainly take a chill if he remain long \nin their midst. But a cold north wind sweeps down through \nthe valley, which may be the principal cause of their cadaverous \ncountenances ; and another may be, that every house is a shoe- \nmaker\'s shop, which sends forth an equal number of " boots and \nshoes daily." Wages have increased a third in Canton Yaud in \nthe last half century, and the quality and abundance of food im- \nproved in proportion. Black bread has almost entirely disap- \npeared in the cot of the labourer and the Sennhut on the moun< \ntain. In the valley of the Joux, where fifty years ago there \nwas scarcely a garden, and vegetables as rare as the wheaten \n\n\n\nVAUD. 125 \n\nloaf, may now be seen the flower-bed beneath every window, \nand the patches of peas, beans, and cabbages spreading far and \nwide. \n\nIt is a land of vineyards and rich pastures, and wine and \ncheese occupy a large space in the cellar of every prosperous \nhousehold. The juice which is expressed from pears and other \nfruits, except apples, is called in Switzerland Most, and this and \ncider are also among the winter stores. Since it became the \ncustom to furnish their own cellars, the inns are not so much \nfrequented, though neither here nor elsewhere are they by any \nmeans deserted. \n\nFresh meat does not often appear on their tables, except on \nSundays and festival days ; but ham, with potatoes and other \nvegetables, almost every day for dinner. Among the peasantry, \nfour meals a day are customary, and at two of them wine never \nfails. The lowest class of labourers are not content without at \nleast a quart daily, besides a glass of brandy before going to \nwork in the morning. Pancakes and waffles with wine are the \nevening repast, and cheese on all occasions. \n\nThe pride of the Senn is to see his hut Imed with smoked \nmeat ; and in order to be sure and rival his neighbour on the \nopposite hni-side in this respect, he will live upon cheese and \nwhey till his meat is spoiled. Hanging upon strings against the \nwalls of the storehouse may also be seen slices of bread with \na hole through the middle. When they are dried, he eats them \nwith a bit of toasted cheese dipped in wine. \n\nIn alluding to the shepherd-life of these regions, Byron says : \n\'\' The music of the cow-bells in the pastures, which reach to a \nheight far above any mountains in Britain, and the shepherds \nshouting to us from crag to crag, and playing on their reeds \nwhere the steeps appeared almost inaccessible, with the surround- \n\n\n\n126 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ning scenery, realized all that I have ever beard or imagined of \na pastoral existence \xe2\x80\x94 much more so than Greece or Asia Minor, \nfor there we have a little too much of the sabre and musket \norder, and if there is a crook in one hand, you are sure to see a \ngun in the other ; but this was pure, unmixed, solitary, savage \nand patriarchal. As we went away, they sang the Raoiz des \nVac/ies and other airs by way of farewell." \n\nAs we have elsewhere explained, the genuine Ranz des Vaches \nhas no words, but we have found one or two simple shepherd- \nsongs which are said to have a date more ancient than any \nman\'s knowledge, and which are yet to be heard every day \namong the hills, that sound so shepherd-like, we have transcribed \nthem, making the translation literal, word for word, without \nany attempt to give them an English versification : \n\n"the song of the ormonds. \n\n*\' The shepherds of the Colombette rise early, \nHo, ho, the cows to milk ; ho, ho, the cows to milk. \nAfterwards the milk must be set to curdle, \nBefore the cheese can be made ; ho, ho, the cows to milk. \nYou are come to the ford and cannot cross, \n\nHo, to the milking. \nPoor brother, what shall we do ? We must go to the priest, \n\nHo, to the milking. \nAnd what do you wish that we say to the priest ? \n\nHo, to the milking. \nHe must say an Ave Maria, that we the river may cross; \n\nHo, to the milking. \nPeter knocks on the door, and says to the priest, \nHo, ho, the cows to milk ; ho, ho, the cows to milk. \n*We are stopped at the ford, say an Ave Maria; \nSend us your maiden, we will make ner a fat cheese.\' \n\n\n\nVAUD. 127 \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 My maid is too pretty ; I am afraid you would keep her ; \nThen God would be angry, and you must come to confession ; \nGo away, friend Peter, and I will say the Ave Maria.^ \nHo, to the milking ; ho, to the milking." \n\n"the storm:. \n\n" It rains, it rains ; my fair one, put on your cloak and gather your \nsheep. Listen to the patter among the leaves : it rains without ceasing. \nThe weather is black as ink, and it begins to lighten. \n\n" Hear ! the thunder begins to roll. It is nothing ; fear not ; keep \nclose to me. I see already our cottage, and near it are my mother and \nJudith. Both hasten to meet us. \n\n" Good evening, dear mother, and dear sister, good evening ; here is a \nlodger I have brought for the night. Make a bright fire, she is cold and \nwet. I will in the meantime go for the sheep. We must take care, dear \nmother, of her beautiful flock. We need some fresh straw for the lamb- \nkins. It is well, dear mother ; now let us go to the kitchen. Oh ! how \npretty she is, undressed and barefoot ! \n\n"Now we will have supper; here is your chair; sit near to me, and \nset the candle near your dish. Taste your porridge. Oh ! you do not \neat, my little one ; you are too sad and shy. \n\n" See, here is your bed ; go and sleep sweetly. Yet from your pretty \nmouth I must have one kiss. Good night till we meet again. To-mor- \nrow my mother and I will go to your father and see what he says." \n\nOne can easily believe these to be the words of the simplest \nof shepherd boys, befriending a little maiden as simple, who \nalso tends her flocks among the mountains. \n\nThe heights of the Jura have no peaks covered with eternal \nsnow, but they are verdure-clad to the very tops, and furnish \nsome of the richest pastures in Switzerland. \n\nHere are to be seen Senn-huts which are like villas, and \nwhich are occupied by whole families during the summer, who \nreceive guests and entertain them with milk and honey, wine and \n\n\n\n128 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ncheese. In one of them, on a mountain overlooking the plains \nof Grandson, Bertrand wrote his romance ; and Monsieur Deles- \nsert has created an Elysium on Mount Tendre, from which one \nmay overlook Canton Yaud, the chain of Alps, and nearly half \nSwitzerland. Yet, they are Senn-huts still, because there the \ncows are milked and the cheese is made, though upon a \ngrand and beautiful scale, from which all primitive simplicity \nhas departed. The vineyards are like those of France, and the \nwines the delicate wines of Burgundy. On the vines of one \nkind are great clusters of the most beautiful amber colour, and \non another, small, close, round bunches nearly black, so \ndeep is their purple hue. The former need a fertile soil, while \nthe latter are set m dry places, and often take root in beds of \nflint. Where new earth is needed, it is carried in baskets to the \nhighest points, and old stocks grafted by making an opening five \nor six inches below the surface. \n\nThe vintage takes place usually about the first or second \nweek in October, when the vineyards present the same scene as \nin Germany, and the whole land keeps festival. The white \ngrapes are crushed in tubs and carried to the press immediately ; \nbut the black are kept in great vats, till fermentation com- \nmences. Both remain during winter in tuns ; and in March the \nwine is poured from the lees, and the best quality bottled and \nsealed. The white wines are the lightest, are soonest fit to \ndrink, and keep the longest, some-of them thirty years. The \njuice of the purple grape is stronger, and in standing changes to \nan orange tint and becomes milder, but keeps only ten or \ntwelve years. The lightness of tlie soil and the inclination of the \nhills affect their taste and quality. \n\nThe costume of the vintagers is very coquettish, varying some- \nwhat in different places, but usually a skirt of blue bordered \n\n\n\nVAUD. \n\n\n\n129 \n\n\n\nwith lace, and bodice of black, with a gauze or crape kerchief \nover the bosom. The short, full chemise sleeves leave the arm \nmostly bare, and the hair is puffed beneath a wide-brimmed straw \nhat, the crown of which rises to a point like the neck of a bottle \nwhich has a glass stopper, the most curious of all head-gears. \n\nIn Echallen, in the heart of the canton, great preparations \nare made for every festival, whether it is the vintage, a village \nraising, or a shooting feast, by washing or whitewashing the \nhouses, and all the marriageable girls appear in new dresses, \nnever wearing the same a second time on festal days. \n\nIn Pailly, another village, all the maidens appear in black on \nsimilar occasions, with gold chains, standing before the doors to \noffer refreshments to those who pass, each family coveting the \nhonour of showing hospitality. \n\nBut the grand festival of Canton Yaud is the vintage fete of \nVevay. Its origin is not known, but from many of its features \nit is supposed to have originated in G-reece, or to have been \ninstituted here by Grecians, in honour of some person or occa- \nsion not now understood. Bacchus and Ceres have lost none of \ntheir importance in the ceremonies of the present day, and may \nhave been the personages for whose benefit the festival was first \ngiven. Others think the monks of the early times wished to \nreward the diligent and encourage the culture of the vine, and \ntherefore created the fete, distributing prizes at the same time \nthat they diffused pleasure. One of the mottoes upon an \nancient banner was " Prayer and labour ;" and whether the \nsociety was ancient or modern, it exists still. Those who have \nthe best vineyards are reported by a committee, who visit all the \nneighbouring country to examine them, and on the day when la \nfete des vigmrons is celebrated, their names are made known, and \nmedals awarded. \n\n6* \n\n\n\n130 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThere is a comical mingling of ancient and modern, sacred and \nprofane, but without any intention of profanity. The principal \nactors know nothing of the heathen gods, or the mythology of \nthe ancients, and very likely they do not know much more of \nI^oah and the spies of Canaan. \n\nThe procession begins with the representatives of spring, \ncrowned with garlands, who are followed by forty young men, \nladen with all the instruments used in wine culture, either new or \nmade clean and beautiful for the occasion. Then come what arc \ncalled the priests of sacrifice, leading the consecrated ram, and \nCenophren bearing the altar. The high priest follows, with a \ntroop of beautiful children singing sacred songs. \n\nWhy Silenus " riding on an ass " should be included in such a \nfestival, we do not understand ; yet there he is, followed by \nBacchus in his car. Ceres and Pallas are attended by a train \nof priestesses with their emblems, sickles, and wreaths of wheat, \nwhile in a long train are arranged the shepherds with their \ncrooks, the mowers with their, scythes, hay-makers with their \nforks, and the Senns with their milk-pails and cauldrons, \nin costume to correspond with their labour, and singing the \nsongs of their several professions. \n\nAt the head of the third division are the spies of Canaan, \nrepresented by four officers of the guard, bearing rich purple \nclusters, which could not have been excelled by any the land of \nCanaan ever produced. Cyclops actually working at his forge, \nand a wine-press in full operation, drawn by horses, are the next \nconspicuous objects, with many vintagers carrying baskets filled \nwith grapes, and their shears in their hands ; an^ last, but not \nleast, father ISToah in his ark, surrounded by his wine-drinking \nsons. \n\nThe songs are in all languages or dialects, the costumes of \n\n\n\nVAUD. 131 \n\nevery variety, and the banners displaying appropriate mottoes, \nwhile happy faces are not the least brilliant feature of the scene. \n\nAt the windows of the houses appear the spinning wheels, also \nin gala attire, various utensils of household economy, and cook- \ning apparatus, as emblematical of industry. \n\nA rustic wedding is always a part of the fete, when a fair mai- \nden receives a dower, and is crowned queen of the day, and gen- \ntlemen and ladies honour them with their presence, and join in \ntheir dances, singing : \n\n"Each with his sweetheart, oho, oho. \nSince four summers have they loved one another ; \nLet us honour them with song, and wine, and dance, \n\nEach with his sweetheart, oho, oho." \n\nAll is finished with a procession of old men in the costume of \nWilliam Tell, who are followed by the multitude to the shade of \nthe chestnuts on the bank of the sea, where the tables are spread, \nladen with all that can tempt the palate, while everything to \ngratify the eye is arranged in not less generous profusion. \nGrapes of every hue, fruit of every variety, all the implements \nof agriculture and many of art ; baskets of all that the earth \nproduces, the cheese of the mountain and the loaves of the val- \nley ; every invention of cookery, and all that fair hands can \nform, are displayed with a taste which lacks nothing, and an \nabundance which knows no limits, while every garden must have \nbeen robbed of its treasures, and every parterre despoiled of its \nbeauties, to crown the whole with garlands ; and the libations, \nnot of new wine, but of old, are long and deep.* \n\nIt is a curious fact, that the quantity of soap used in the can- \n\n* The reader will remember also that it is new wine, and not old, that intoxicates. \n\n\n\n132 THE COTTAGKS OF THE ALPS^ \n\nton now is three times greater than thirty years ago. Here the \ngreat wash occurs twice a year, as in Germany, and the articles \nof a bride\'s wardrobe are counted by dozens, or ten and twelve \ndozen of each, not a rare dowry. \n\nAmong the rich every trace of the old life and customs has \ndisappeared ; and though in the seventeenth century a dancing- \nmaster was banished because he allowed persons of two sexes to \nremain together after ten o\'clock, now they may dance all night, \nand till the dawn, without being molested by the government or \nany lesser authority. \n\nThe Kiltgang, or nightly wooings, are the universal custom \nwith the universal consequences, but in general the wife is \ntreated with marked respect, is made keeper of the treasury, and \nconsulted as the oracle of the family. In harvest, women are \nseen in the fields following the mowers, receiving in their arms \nthe grain as it falls, and placing it carefully on the ground. \nThey also take care of the gardens, are seen in towns wheeling \nlittle hand-carts, " with light wares laden ;" and here, as else- \nwhere, are the water-carriers on all occasions. \n\nThere are remnants still of the days of superstition, when the \ndevil was supposed to understand and meddle in all human \naffairs, and was designated by some twenty different names, as \n" serpent," " sly one," " old one," etc., and believed to be cloven- \nfooted and clawed. \n\nWitches assembled at the rising of the moon, and their evil \ninfluence was charmed away by a verse of the Bible chanted by \na priest. A beautiful neckband was placed upon a cow as a \ncharm, and pigmies rode through the forest on pigs, using their \ntails for bridle and reins. Fairies with diamond eyes scattered \nriches, and in which the faith, of the people never faltered, though \nthey remained always poor. . Whoever found at midnight a four- \n\n\n\nVAUD. 133 \n\nleaved clover would inherit wealth. Over every fountain was \na protecting angel, and at every burial the death-wine was \ndrunk. \n\nWhen Canton Yaud was subject to Berne, the government \nendeavoured to compel, them to economy by law, and we find \nthe same ludicrous enactments as elsewhere. \n\nAmong the articles of the wardrobe of a noble lady of Yaud, \nin 1643, were a chain of 880 pearls, gold bracelets, a necklace \nof diamonds, and roses of rubies, and rings of all precious stones. \nThe nobihty alone were allowed to wear gold, silver, brocade \nand lace. Burghers were forbidden to wear caps which cost \nmore than eight dollars, and their wives were allowed but one \ndress and one petticoat, and no false hair. The wives of the \nclergy were forbidden to appear in taffeta, satin, or velvet. \nCoffee, tea, and chocolate were proscribed to all except my \ngracious Herren of the aristocracy, and only the Landvogt was \nan exception in the prohibition of smoking tobacco and taking \nsnuff. On one occasion, availing himself of this permission, he \nproduced his box in church, and passed it around for all to take \na pinch. The preacher paused, and looking seriously at his \nexcellency, said, "In this house we take only the Word of \nGod." \n\nNow, the law commands\' that a pastor\'s house shall be built \nwith six rooms for the family, besides storeroom, chambers for \nservants, cellar, and room for catechumen. The rich dwell \nmostly on the banks of the lake, and exhibit all the elegance \nand luxury of English country-houses, with the varied architec- \nture of Greece and Rome, or the Gothic of the Middle Ages. \nFor windows, pillars, and wherever ornament is required, they \nuse a kind of soft sandstone, which they call molassa, and the \nbricks, made by a mixture of the sand they obtain from the sea, \n\n\n\n134: THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nare a pale yellow, and are used for partitions, chimneys, and \narches, with a very pretty effect. The roofs are covered with \nslate, which they bring from the Canton Yalais.* When one \nwishes to build a house, he gives his idea to the designer, the \nsize of the rooms and of the whole, and the material. The cubic \nfeet are then taken, for which he pays so much each. \n\nFormerly, the garden beds were all made by squaie rule, the \ntrees set in straight rows, and the parterres like churchyards, \nsuiTOunded by walls ; but taste is beginning to diffuse itself with \nutiUty, and comfort to go hand-in-hand with beauty. \n\nThe law also prescribes, that the schoolhouse shall be provided \nwith two rooms, kitchen, cellar, storeroom, dining-room, and \n"woodhouse, as it is occupied by the family of the teacher ; and \nthe houses of the middle classes generally have a dining-room \nand guest-room, one for parents and one for children, besides \npantries, storerooms, etc. There may not be any more room \nthan formerly, but it is better used. The stairs are of stone \nwith iron raiUngs, the walls are papered, the roofs plastered \nand ventilation secured. \n\nBut remnants of the days of old are still to be found, or rather \nexperienced, in curious old laws that were promulgated before \nthe Roman conquest ; and some pages of their statute-books still \nbear the sign and seal of king Goudebaud. They have at differ- \nent times blotted out, revised, and added, but there is always \nsomething disagreeable in proclaiming ourselves wiser and better \nthan our fathers were, which is, notwithstanding, a great stum- \nbling-block to improvement. \n\nThe towns on the sea are the resort of strangers of all nations, \nespecially of English people, who pay their taxes at home and \n\n* Pebbles for the streets, they import from Savoy. \n\n\n\nVAUD. 136 \n\nlive abroad, it being impossible to do both, where taxes and ex- \npenses are both so great. \n\nWe saw a family brought into the same ludicrous predicament \nhere as in Germany, where a father, mother, and five children \ncame ahroad without the marriage certificate, which alone could \nprove their respectabihty, or rather entitle any new comer into their \nmidst to equal honour. Not till the httle one was born, and its \nname taken to the registry ofdce, did any one dream of the cala- \nmity which had befallen it, but though the parents, children, \nand others stood as witnesses, no petition could induce them to \nsoil their pages with the record of a birth where there was no \nwriting to prove the relationship of its parents. But as the \nlaws concerning marriage are mostly to secure property rather \nthan honour, no great evil will result to the little one, unless her \nprospects of inheritance should be increased far beyond what \nthey were then. \n\nWe saw this summer a notice of a marriage between parties, \none of which was from Zurich, the other from Friburg, and they \nwere to live in Soleure. The marriage took place in Berne, \nand fifteen testimonials and special documents were necessary to \nmake it lawful ; upon which the editor of the journal indulges \nin witty speculations, that all who are looking forward to matri- \nmony will be for consolidating the confederacy and generalizing \nits powers. \n\nAnother case occurred, when Americans, for some reason, \nwere called upon to prove their marriage, and though the min- \nister asserted that he knew the parties, and could not doubt \ntheir word, nothing less than seven witnesses standing in a row \ncould satisfy the cantonal law. If citizens of another country \nwish to marry and settle in their midst, they must bring a cer- \ntificate from their own government that they shall be provided \n\n\n\n136 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nfor in case of misfortune ; or if the husband and father die, that \nhis family shall not become a burden to their adopted country. \n\nWe were one day overwhelmed with reproaches because many \nof the emigrants to America were disappointed or deceived, or \nnot properly provided for, by the government. But when we \nasked in return, what does any government in Europe do for \nstrangers who may land on their shores ? they were obliged to \nanswer, " K\'othing, but to ordain that only those who have pass- \nports and plenty of money shall be allowed to stay an hour in \ntheir midst." What would they do, indeed, were fifty, or twenty, \nor even ten, to be thrown suddenly upon their charities, as are \nthousands every week upon the benevolence of Americans ? \n\nIn Canton Yaud there are nine hundred and sixty societies \nof various kinds for the promotion of the general welfare. Five \nhundred and thirty of these are agricultural, fifty rehgious, and \nfifty benevolent. \n\nThe cantonal colours are green and white, in equal propor- \ntions, the words ^^ Liberty and Country ^^ appearing upon the \nwhite ground of their escutcheon. The inhabitants are Protes- \ntant in greater proportion even than in Geneva ; and in no \nother canton has equality a more genuine reality, or are the com- \nforts of material life more universally distributed. This is a \ntestimony we like to render as a proof that a proper attention \nto health and personal comfort does not interfere with the \nflights of fancy, the designs of art, or the investigations of \nphilosophy. We have counted more than sixty celebrities \namong their authors and artists, some twenty of whom were \npoets, novelists, and painters. \n\nWe need not tell Americans that Agassiz was born on the \nbanks of Lake Leman, nor enumerate his titles to the honours \nhis own country and ours have bestowed upon him ; and we do \n\n\n\nVAUD. 137 \n\nnot know which is the most proud \xe2\x80\x94 the httle canton to have \ngiven him birth, or America to have adopted him.* \n\n* In the village of Yverdon, at the foot of Lake Neuchatel, Pestalozzi established one \nof his schools. The English guide-book says it was broken up, and he was obliged to \nflee, and that however good his theories and system of teaching, he succeeded miserably \nhimself in putting them in practice. On what authority they make the statement they \ndo not say, but there is no truth in it. Troubles which had nothing to do with his sys- \ntem or practice of teaching obliged him to leave Yverdon, from which place he went to \nthe father of Fellenberg, who received him with open arms, and offered him apartments \nin his castle to open a school. He was not very prepossessing in his appearance, and \nEmanuel Fellenberg, being then a child, thought as he saw him coming that he was a \nbeggar, but the narrative his father gave him of the noble life and sacrifices of his \nfriend, made an impression upon his character which influenced his whole life. The \nfollowing extract from one of his private letters will show the spirit in which he taught, \nand with such a spirit he could not help being a good teacher: \n\n" I was from morning till evening in their midst ; all that could happen to them in \nsoul and love they received from me. My hand rested in their hand, and my eye rested \non theirs. My laugh accompanied theirs, and my tears flowed with theirs. They were \nexcluded from the world ; they were by me and I by them, I had nothing \xe2\x80\x94 no house- \nhold, no friend, no servant around me ; I had only them." \n\nLike all those who originate something new, and great, and good, he was derided, \nand had enemies. He struggled, too, with adversity and many obstacles ; but if, as \nJohn Muller said, " He who founds a school is greater than he who conquers a pro- \nvince," Pestalozzi is greater than a hundred princes and generals, for he is the real \nfounder of hundreds and thousands of schools. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER IX. \n\n\n\nGENEVA. \n\n\n\nCALVIN \xe2\x80\x94 JEWS \xe2\x80\x94 LAKE LEMAN \xe2\x80\x94 WATCH-MAKING \xe2\x80\x94 -SOCIAL LIFE \xe2\x80\x94 SWIMMING \nSCHOOLS FOR GIRLS. \n\n\n\nThere is perhaps no city in Switzerland which exhibits so great \na degree of intellectual activity as Geneva, though it still par- \ntakes something of the severity of Calvin and the reformers of \nhis age. Not only the social life, but the legislative and judicial \nproceedings, still bear the impress of his sternness and rigidity. \n\nWhen they threw off the yoke of the bishops in 1535, and \ndeclared themselves independent, they adopted the new religion, \nand Calvin became their judge and legislator. He made the \nlaws, organised the Church, and founded the schools. His active \nmmd was everywhere, and the traces of it exist still in every insti- \ntution. Many of his measures seem very rude and barbarbous \nnow, but he thought them necessary in the turbulent times in \nwhich he lived. His doctrine was not considered exactly demo- \ncratic at the time he preached it, and there are more perhaps in \nthese days than then in his native city who are of a similar \nopinion. They are not a remarkably devout people, or their devo- \ntions are performed somewhere besides at the foot of the altar. \n\n188 \n\n\n\nGENEVA. 139 \n\nThey passed throngh all the gradations of spiritual and \npolitical emancipation common to the nations struggling against \nforeign and domestic tyranny, ignorance, bigotry, and prejudice, \nand their statute-books exhibit the same inconsistencies we have \nfound in their sister cities. While they offered refuge to all who \nfled to them from persecution on account of difference of belief \nin certain dogmas, they imprisoned and tortured by hundreds \nthose who were accused of being "possessed of devils," or hav- \ning intercourse with familiar spirits. Towards the end of the \nsixteenth century, five hundred were condemned for witchcraft \nin the course of three months, and suffered the various penalties \ninvented for such criminals in those days of darkness and super- \nstition. \n\nThey were not really one of the members of the Swiss Confede- \nracy till 1814, though they became the allies of Berne in 1526, \nand of Zurich in 1584. Rousseau and Yoltaire pronounced their \nfreedom and happiness without alloy, and sung of them as pos- \nsessing almost an Utopia ; but they have since made many \nchanges, and if they deserved then to be called a liberal and \nliberty-enjoying people, they deserve it still more at the present \ntime. \n\nIn Geneva, the Jew is not subject to a single restriction from \nlaw, custom, or manners ; yet there are not two hundred within \ntheir limits. In some of the restrictive cantons the plea is made \nthat, if they admit them at all, " they shall be flooded with low \nJews ;" but it seems to be proved, that where they are treated \nlike other people, they are not inferior in ambition or self-respect. \nIn Alsatia, one of the southern provinces of France, there are \nforty thousand, and their children all attend school, and their \nemployments are the same as those of so many people of any \nother nation. They are driven to peddling and mean offices by \n\n\n\n140 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthe narrow-minded policy of Christians ; and where allowed to \npursue honourable callings, the proportion is not greater than \namong others of the mean, exacting, and dishonest. \n\nThe laws concerning Jews, in Switzerland, do not seem to be \nconnected at all with the peculiar faith of the cantons ; as in \none, which is entirely Protestant, they are free ; and in another, \nlike Bale, the policy is most illiberal and restrictive. \n\nTessino is the most thoroughly Catholic canton, and the Jew \nhas there every privilege of other citizens ; and also in the \nCatholic cantons, Eriburg and Yalais ; while in Schwytz and \nZug they are not allowed to come even within their borders. In \nZurich they do not allow a Jew to live, trade, or own land, \nwithout the consent of the commune where they wish to settle, \nand Lucerne does not grant naturalization to Jew or Christian \neither, as a right, but will sometimes bestow it as a favour. In \nUnterwald, the law prohibits them to reside, but they say \nno Jew ever asked the privilege 1 In Protestant Glarus, they \nare liberal ; and in Protestant Appenzell, they are again \nrestrictive. \n\nIt is impossible to reconcile these inconsistencies, otherwise \nthan by the influence of families and local prejudice ; and these \ndo not seem sufficient to account for differences on this subject, \nor any other within so small a circle as the limits of Switzerland. \nYet, in some cantons lying contiguous, there is scarcely any \nmore resemblance in character, laws, or customs, than in people \nseparated by seas. \n\nGeneva is little more than twelve leagues in extent, and is \nsurrounded by Catholics ; and, except the part lying on the \nlake, and one Uttle almost invisible corner which touches Canton \nYaud, is entirely bordered by empires and monarchies. In suc- \ncession, Kome, Germany, Prance, and Savoy have quarrelled \n\n\n\nGENEVA. 141 \n\nwith her and about her, the one rending her in twain, and the \nother appropriating her in totum, century after century ; and \nyet she stands there, the proud little canton ; never losing her \nnationality, or allowing others to mistake her identity. She is \nGeneva through all time and all changes. \n\nLake Leman is first mentioned by Caesar, who found it \nalready bearing this name, or Liman, the Lake of the Desert. \nIt is a pity it should not have retained one so poetical, and one \nwhich would admit the other cantons bordering on the sea to an \nequal participation, which would be no more than right, when \nshe waters a larger portion of their territory than the one which \nshares her cognomen. It will seem very prosy to pass it by \nwithout some rhapsody, but nearly two hundred poems and \nromances have been written on its shores since Rousseau sung \nof " Clarens, sweet Clarens," * and among the authors are \nByron, Lamartine, and Victor Hugo. Their "beauties" are \nin every guide book, and neither Mont Blanc, the Jura, or \n\'\' sweet, placid Leman," could receive any additional honour from \nour pen ; but let no one presume that our heart has failed in its \nhomage. \n\nZeneva was the original word for Geneva, and in the middle \nages the city was known as \'Gehenna. Her escutcheon is \nemblematical of her history, not having been changed since a \ncentury before her independence. A perpendicular line divides \nit into two equal parts, exhibiting on one side a field of gold \nwith the half of a black eagle, and another side red, with a key \nturned wrongside up. The Landweibel appear also in yellow \nand red on election-day, the Ted being predominant. The arms \nwere borrowed from the empire and Church, and signify the \ndouble rule to which the city was subjected in the middle ages. \n\n* Byron\'s words. \n\n\n\n142 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe rural population * occupy only one third of the canton, \nand on an average every two families own real estate. The \nmanufacture of watches is the great industry of city and country, \nand busy fingers are at work upon the curious and almost invisi- \nble machinery, not only in the shops of the city, but in families \nas they have leisure, and in the cottages scattered here and \nthere in the country. \n\nThe history and process of watchmaking are familiar to \nreaders of all countries. In Germany it dates to the middle of \nthe fourteenth century. We read of a watch presented to \nCharles Y., in 1350, not larger than an almond. A goldbeater \nof Italy sent one to Duke Urbin, in 1542, small enough to be \nset in a ring. Parker, Archbishop of Canterbury, left one to \nhis brother. Bishop Ely, mounted on the head of an Indian \ngold-headed cane. \n\nThe society or corporation of watchmakers in France received \ntheir first regulations or laws from Louis XI., in 1483 ; and as \nan art, watchmaking was introduced into Switzerland in 158t, \nbut did not become a science till the seventeenth century. \n\nAfter the discovery of the oscillation of the pendulum by \nGalileo, other discoveries and improvements followed each other \nin quick succession, and clocks began to strike in every kitchen, \nand watches to tick in every pocket. Here they are within the \nmeans of the cook and the chambermaid, who do not seem to \nlook upon them as any special ornament, but as useful only in \ntelling when the meat is sufficiently roasted, or Monsieur will \nreturn to his lunch. \n\nIn Geneva the first laws concerning this industry are dated in \nthe year 1600 ; and in 1685 there were one hundred master \nwatchmakers, finishing five thousand watches. \n\n* The rural life is nearly the same as in Canton Vaud. \n\n\n\nGENEVA. 143 \n\nTowards the end of the seventeenth century clocks were \napplied to the determination of longitudes, and the mainspring \nand regulator perfected by scientific Englishmen, repeaters in- \nvented, and weights employed in marine clocks. \n\nTwo distinguished Frenchmen, Romilly and Le Roy, whose \nnames are familiar wherever a pendulum swings, invented the \nbest methods of measuring tune at sea ; and these inventions \nhave been perfected till there seems nothing more to be done, \nbut to make clocks and watches after the most approved \npatterns. Those who manufacture them now in greatest abun- \ndance know very little of the scientific principle upon which they \ngo ; and machines have been constructed which fashion by means \nof steam and water power many of the most difficult parts. \nThose which are still the work of hands are scattered in different \nplaces, one making all the pointers and another all the wheels, a \nthird produces a sprmg, and a fourth the pendulums, neither \nhaving the least idea of the use of the several parts, and no \nmore idea of the really wonderful little watch as a whole, than \nhe who makes ploughs or polishes curling irons. But they can- \nnot be put together or kept in order without comprehending the \nprinciple upon which th\xc2\xaby are constructed, as well as the me- \nchanism by which they are kept in operation. \n\nThe watchmaking industry attained its greatest height in \n1*789, when the city of Geneva alone employed four thousand \nworkmen, besides two or three thousand in the country and in \nSavoy. In the year 1819, seventy thousand were finished, but \nnow not more than half this number annually, though there are \nforty-seven factories for making the cases alone. They produce, \nbesides, a million of dollars\' worth of jewellery, employing \nbetween one and two thousand persons, of whom several hundred \nare women. \n\n\n\n144 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nGeneva gold is considered the finest, and her ornaments the \nmost beautiful. Some people profess to be able to distinguish \nthem in the midst of any crowd. In order to prevent fraud, the \ngovernment appoints a committee of surveillance, who inspect \nevery workshop and all the articles made in it, to be sure no un- \nlawful weights or measures are used and no false alloy. The \namount of gold used annually is seventy-five thousand ounces, \nbesides five thousand marks of silver, and five hundred and fifty \nthousand dollars worth of precious stones. \n\nThe French custom-house allows each person to carry two \nGeneva watches across the border free, but for each one extra a \nduty of one dollar is demanded, which is very little compared to \nthe ancient tariff, but perhaps the profit is not less to them, as \nsmuggling has proportionally decreased. \n\nThe first steamboat was placed upon the lake by an American \nin 1843, and was named the William Tell; now there are three \nor four in summer, and two in winter. All do not pass through the \nlake who visit the city, as many go directly through Savoy to \nItaly. The number of passports viseed in Geneva in a year \nis between twenty and thirty thousand ; and in one year \nthe number who travelled by the different public convey- \nances in all Switzerland was within six weeks five hundred \nthousand. \n\nFour hundred emigrants from Geneva and Canton Yaud \nfounded the Geneva of the New World in 1803, and a colony \nfrom Yevay in 1801, at the other end of the lake, founded New \nYevay and Monterey in Indiana, where they planted the first \nvines. Several hundi-ed went in 1833 from Bernese Oberland \nto Canada, and there is an Alpina in New York, a Glarus in \nWisconsin, a Highland in St. Louis, and a settlement from \nBasle and Appenzell in Kentucky, all baptising their homes in \n\n\n\nGENEVA. 145 \n\nthe New World with some appellation which reminded them of \nthose they had left in the Old. \n\nThe English guide-book, upon the authority of some writer \nnot mentioned, in alluding to the influence of Calvin in G-eneva, \nremarks, that "He was chosen member of the consistory ; and \nthat this was scarcely inferior to an inquisition, claiming the \nright to examine people\'s private affairs and those of their \nfamilies, making laws concerning dress, and punishing all offen- \nders with the greatest severity." As a specimen of these enact- \nments they give the following, \'\' that a dinner for ten persons \nshall be limited to five dishes ; that no one should be allowed to \nwear plush breeches ; violations of the Sabbath were to be \npublicly reproved, adultery punished with death, and the games- \nter to be obliged to stand in the pillory with a pack of cards \ntied round his neck." \n\nThey might have found far more ridiculous ones than these ; \nbut we have sufficiently shown in the extracts we have given \nfrom the statute-books of other cantons that this peculiar and \nexcessive legislation did not originate with Calvin, and was not \nconfined to Geneva alone. In Catholic Lucerne at the same \ntime the laws were of the same character ; and the scrutiny of \nthe Government in all private affairs was not less severe, though \nthe Church was subject to the state, and the clergy had nothing \nto do with the temporal power. It was the fault of the times, \nand among all nations the same. It is not many years since it \nwas the law of England that no Roman Catholic should possess \na horse that cost more than five pounds ; and we saw the other \nday, that a magistrate had been fined in an American city for a \nviolation of the Sabbath, though his sin was merely driving in a \ncarriage, and what nobody now considers a sin, only that the \nlaw made a half century ago still remained on the statute-book, \n\n7 \n\n\n\n146 THE COTTAGES OF TflE ALPS. \n\nand some enemy availed himself of the opportunity to make the \naccusation. \n\nIn Germany and Austria this legislation concerning all these \nminuti^ still exist, just as it did in England and America two \nhundred years ago ; the Government exercising a constant \nsupervision and interference in the petty daily routine of indivi- \nvidual life. No laws of Calvin were more ridiculous than those \nnow enforced every day in these imperial and princely domi- \nnions ; and those who will examine the early provisions of the \nPuritans, will see that they began by taking the same care, med- \ndling continually with what should be left to every person\'s \nprivate judgment. \n\nIn Switzerland there was scarcely any attempt to revise the \nlaAV codes till within fifty years, and some stood in all their \npristine barbarity till 1848, and a few are not changed yet. \nBut Geneva is not of this number. The government of Calvin \nwas austere, and his measures rigorous in the extreme ; but what \nwas particularly evil in his legislation ceased long ago, while \nthe schools he founded and the systems of unprovement he insti- \ntuted still exist. He was a misanthrope, not from his religion, \nbut from his physical temperament. Zwinglius, with equal zeal \nin the same cause, was a social, genial man, not censorious even \nin those cold, harsh times, but tempering the truth he preached \nwith a love and sympathy that made it all the more welcome. \n\nAll manner of benevolent and reformatory institutions are \nas numerous in Geneva as in Basle ; and though it is not yet \nmuch to boast of, their affabihty and hospitality are a little more \nChristian and modern than in some other places. \n\nIn some respects the customs of society are the same in \nSwitzerland as in Germany ; in others, they are as different as \nif there were no relationship between them in language or conti- \n\n\n\nGENEVA. 147 \n\ngiiitv. It is one of the unaccountable things to the solution of \nwhich we can never find any clue, how there should spring up \nhere and there a point of etiquette, a peculiarity of dress, a \nmanner of cooking, to distinguish a few who are in all other \nrespects alike. \n\nOne sees, immediately on entering Switzerland, that women \nare much more free than in Germany. They are everywhere \nalone, walking, riding, visiting ; and one feels instantly in any \nof their towns or villages that there is no such scrutiny or gossip \nabout a lady who may be travelling or residing among them for \nany purpose, either secret or revealed. They are altogether \nmore given to minding their own affairs, for the reason, perhaps, \nthat they would have very little time for anything else, if they \nundertook to look after those of people who pass through or stop \na little while among them. \n\nThe most peculiar of their customs in social life is the formal \narrangement of children into circles of friendship called Sodetes \nde Dimanche, which continue through life. The parents select \nten or twelve in the famihes of their acquaintances of the same \nage as their own, and they meet every week on Sunday, when \nchildren, to play, and as they grow older, to talk and dance, each \nchild of the family having a circle of its own, the brothers and \nsisters not belonging to the same. When very young, the parents \nor guardians are present at their meetings ; but as they grow \nolder they are left to themselves, and the bonds of friendship \nand the promises of matrimony are formed with indissoluble ties, \nalmost without the knowledge of others. \n\nChaperoning and matronizing are not at all the necessities they \nare in England, France, or Germany. Young ladies and gentle- \nmen have pic-nics, rides, and excursions by themselves ; and from \nall we can learn, conduct themselves as properly, and remain \n\n\n\n148 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthrough life as worthy, as the ladies of any other nation. But \nthese circles to which they are confined tend to make them exclu- \nsive, narrow-minded, and awkward. Being accustomed from \ncliildhood to associate with a few in so intimate a manner, they \nare not at ease in the presence of others ; they have no general \ntopics of conversation, know nothing of the world, and, the \nsociety thus furnished them being sufficient, they take no interest \nin any one beyond it, for the purpose of pleasure or benevolence. \nWe do not know how general this custom may be, but find it in \nthe principal towns from the extreme north, Basle and Schaff- \nhausen, to the extreme south. We never heard of anything of \nthe kind in Germany, yet at a ball or party the supper and \nother ceremonies are nearly the same in both countries. Among \nthe eight or ten thus bound together by the most intimate ties \nof friendship, each is also the confidante of some one in particular, \nto whom are confided all her secrets, to whom she goes for coun- \nsel, and whom she prefers in all things to any member of her own \nfamily. Sisters are often strangers to each other, and often, too, \nestranged by these very means. The members of the circle to \nwhich each belongs may not have the benefit of ordinary acquaint- \nance. They are not necessary to each other, because their \nsympathies are enlisted elsewhere. Between parents and child- \nren it is the same. It is strange a mother can be thus willing \nto renounce the affection and confidence of a daughter. The \narrangement is with special reference to keeping them in what \nthey deem " first society," and preserving them from plebeian \nassociations. The boys of the circle are selected from famihes \nwhich render them proper matches for the girls, and with the \nhope that a mutual attachment will be formed. This is often the \ncase, and an engagement made before the parents know any- \nthing of the matter. If anything so fortunate does not happen \n\n\n\nGENEVA. 149 \n\nthey look around among those outside the ckcle for a suitable \nconnexion, and with those whom the parents think proper the \ndaughter must be satisfied. \n\nWhen acquainted with the details of such an institution, one \nno longer wonders at the unsociality and exclusiveness of the \nSwiss. We almost wonder that they possess even a remnant of \nhuman sympathy ; and many people who dwell among them for \nyears really beheve they do not. But, as we have elsewhere \nshown, it is not among the lowly that we find these things, and \nwe have seen them when enjoying the liberty and benefits of \nanother institution, where we have obtained a much more agree- \nable impression. \n\nThe swimming schools of Switzerland and Germany are more \nworthy of imitation. These are now miiversal ; and along \nthe banks of lakes and rivers are to be seen everywhere the \nlittle temples for the exercise of these graces. We have seen \ntwenty or thirty at a time floating on the blue waves of Lake \nLeman, and sporting in Zurich\'s bright waters, and never saw a \nmerrier sight. The art of swimming is now considered an \naccomphshment, like that of dancing or drawing, and we think \nmay very reasonably rank above both. It conduces far more \nto health, and quite as much to elegance and grace. \n\nThe arrangements are temporary in most places, being re- \nmoved in winter, and consist of rows of rooms along the shore \nfor dressing, from which they descend by stairs to the water, \nwhere a large inclosure is formed of boards, and, if the water \nis deep, a floor made of planks, but all so loosely that the cur- \nrent of water is not suspended, but kept constantly fresh. A \nlady is the teacher, and for those who are not expert, cords are \nstretched from side to side to be ready in case of accident, and \nfor convenience in walking about; and around the waist a band, \nwhich connects with one held by the teacher, who leaves it loose \n\n\n\n150 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nuntil danger requires it to be called to their aid. They are first \ntaught to balance themselves on the water, then to use the \nlimbs, and when thoroughly at ease, all supports are thrown off \nand they glide about like dolphins, and splash like so many por- \npoises, turning somersets, swimming upon then* backs, and per- \nforming all manner of gymnastics, with no more fear than the \nnatives of the watery element. No exercise can be so healthful, \nas it calls into play every muscle, is exhilarating, and, with so \nmany together, a diverting amusement, as it admits of the \nutmost abandon without possibility of danger to morals or \ndelicacy. They have a uniform of red, or white, or grey, accord- \ning to their taste, so loose as not to interfere with free motion, \nand black oil silk caps for the hair. Often they pass the limits \nof their little domain, and sail far out into the open water, a \nphalanx of mermaids, and would certainly not be the timid crea- \ntures women usually are if wrecked on the ocean. We should \nlike to know that every sea and river in America could exhibit \na similar scene. \n\nThe list of savans in Geneva would equal that of Zurich in \nlength, and no words of ours could add to their renown. It was \nnot the birth-place of Calvin, but was the theatre of his labours, \nand of many of the scarcely less bright and shining lights of his \ntime. His house is still the Mecca of Protestant pilgrim^. \nKousseau was born in Geneva, and she gave Solone to England, \nLe Clerc to Holland, Lefort to Russia, and Keekar to France. \nHere, too, was the home of Yernet, of De Luc, Provost, Baul- \nacre, Romilly, Le Sage, Diodati, Mallet, Pictet, Berenger, \nD\'lvernois, and Jalabert. Yoltaire did not live in the city, but \nit was the scenery around her waters that tempted him to form \nhis little paradise at Ferner, and that has tempted from time to \ntime nearly all the beatix esprits of Paris; and her lake has been \nthe nucleus around which have gathered those of all the world, \n\n\n\nGENEVA. 15 I \n\nespecially the uufortunate who must fly from oppression, or who \nsought a solace for their misfortunes. The history of these \nalone would form an interesting volume, without including what \nthey have themselves written. Byron found it " beautiful as a \ndream ;" and one can almost rejoice at the affliction which sent \nhim forth a lonely wanderer when he reads the " Prisoner of \nChillon," \'\' Manfred," and " Childe Harold," the songs which he \nsang on Geneva\'s banks. Madame de Stael, surrounded by her \nbrilhant coterie, hved at Cojpjpet. The new castle was owned \nfirst by Count Dolina, and next fell into the hands of a rich \nbanker of St. Gall, not a miUionaire merely, but the lord of \nmany milUons. In the reign and through the injustice of Louis \nXIY. he was despoiled, and died in the miserable hut of a poor \nwoman of Yersailles. It then became the possession of the \nminister of tliis king, the father of Madame de Stael. She was \nthe magnet which attracted all the sages, philosophers, and \nliterati of the then known world \xe2\x80\x94 a constellation perhaps the \nmost brilliant which has ever shone upon it. Napoleon scattered \nthem to the four winds, though he could not put out their hght \n\xe2\x80\x94 alas I that he should have learned afterwards so bitterly what \nit was to be a fugitive and exile. There is scarcely a sod of \nthe republic which has not been pressed by the foot of the \nunfortunate. When will despots learn to make their own so \nfree that they may walk it over without fear, and meet their \nown subjects without trembhng ? \n\nTVe need not mention D\'Aubigne, whose " History of the \nReformation," enchanting as romance, is read in every village \nof America. There are still wise men in her university, and \nliterati, both men and women, whose names will be recorded by \nfuture historians as worthy to stand side by side with those of \nthe past. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER X. \n\nFRIBURG. \n\nGRUYERE CHEESE \xe2\x80\x94 GESSENAY SHEPHERDS \xe2\x80\x94 CHEESE ARISTOCRACY \xe2\x80\x94 SWISS \nSONG INFLUENCE OP AMtSEMENTS \xe2\x80\x94 LEGENDS. \n\nIf one mentions having been in Friburg, he is immediately \nasked, " Did you hear the organ, and did you taste of Gruyere \ncheese V^ The organ is in the church of St. iNiicholas, and \ncalled the first in the world. Its size is that of a small church, \nand its music that of all the spheres, and, of course, indescribe- \nable. The cheese we tasted on shipboard, while crossing the \nAtlantic, and have never ventured to do so since, even when in \ntheu\' midst. They are made among the mountains which occupy \nthe southern part of Friburg, the northern part of Yqjais, and \nthe western part of Berne ; all bearing the name of Gruyere, \none of the oldest, quaintest, and most curious of all the old \ntowns in Switzerland. \n\nAmong these Alpine pastures may be seen all the grades of \nshepherd life, and every variety of mountain scenery. On the \nheights of Gessenay one may go to sleep in Lapland and awake \nin Sicily, if he spends the night in almost any of its huts, which \nthe rocks cover so completely that not a ray of the sun pcne- \n\n152 \n\n\n\nFRIBUKG. 153 \n\ntrates the atmosphere till in all its midday splendour it bursts \nupon the view, and for a little while the heat is so intense that \nthe same rocks are sought for shelter which a few hours before \nseemed like icebergs. \n\nThe whole region is one vast pasture-land ; and the people, \nfather, mother, and children, are shepherds. They have no per- \nmanent residences in summer, but, literally, not only take up \nthen: beds, but their houses, apd walk. The same is true of the \nSimmenthal. Each hill is covered thickly with houses, not with \na proprietor in every one, but many being the property of an \nindividual, those for the cattle having nearly the same appearance \nas those for a family. \n\nThey are all built of wood, the upper story consisting of long \ntimbers of pine, so arranged as to give free course to the air, \nand the roof kept in place by great stones. Each beam and \nrafter is numbered and called by name, so that if "the winds \nblow, and the floods come to beat upon the house," the fall \nthereof may be great, but the misfortune can be easily remedied. \nIt does not take long to rebuild ; and though it is upon a rock, \nand not upon s\'and, they are very often carried away. Like the \nArab, they travel with their tents, though they are of wood and \nstone instead of cloth ; and they cross ravines and ford streams \ninstead of wading through the sands of the desert. \n\nThere is scarcely an acre of cultivated ground to be seen ; \nnow and then a little hemp or flax, or patch of potatoes ; bat \nit is only within the last half century that they have thought of \neating bread, and when wheat was introduced it created almost \na revolution. It was one of those dangerous innovations, which \nmust first be mentioned cautiously, lest the State should be \nplaced in peril, and extravagance corrupt the people I They \nused to bake little barley cakes, which, like sea-biscuit, were \n\n\n\n154 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\naffected by no changes, and enough were made in spring to last \nthrough all their migrations. \n\nTheir wealth is cheese, and their heirlooms are also cheese. \nWhoever enters the right storehouse, may see one bearing the \ndate of 1643. By some they are asserted to improve by \nkeeping, and others declare them to be no better tlian sawdust \nwhen past a certain age ! For ourselves, they seem the same \nwhether old or young, and to have in them no good thing ; yet \nthey go as luxuries beyond the Mississippi and the Ganges, to \nAmerica, India, and the islands of the seas. These tufted knolls \nafford nourishment, not only to the tenants of the cot, but to \nthe proudest prince and nabob in his palace. \n\nBut, not only is cheese their wealth and heirlooms, but the \nbasis of their aristocracy. The shepherds of Gessenay and the \nsurrounding Alps are also magistrates and other officials, and \nyet do not disdain to drive their own cows to pasture, and \nsuperintend the operations of the dairy. They are the simplest \nof herdsmen, and have no higher ambition. \n\nBut a little lower are the dwellers in the ample and pictu- \nresque chalets, with servants to whom they say, "Go, and he \ngoeth ; come, and he cometh." They neither drive cows them- \nselves, nor milk them ; they are a few feet below their neigh- \nbours, and feel many degrees above them. We descend yet a \nlittle, and find those who only buy and sell the cheese after it \nis deposited in the storehouse : they are financiers ; neither \nmanufacturers nor petty dealers, but wholesale and commission \nmerchants, not at all to be classed with the people at the middle \nor top of the mountain. \n\nThe size of the cheese has also something to do with defining \nthis aristocracy. Great proprietors with large pastures make \nlarger cheeses, and sell them at greater advantage. Like all \n\n\n\nFKIBURG. 155 \n\nother people who have the means, they indulge in luxuries, and \nassume something of state, though dwelling in a chalet. Others \nimitate them as they become able, and thus follow all ranks, till \nthe owner of a few cows in a single Sennhut among the rock \nends the train. \n\nBut cheese are also subject to the fluctuations of the market ; \nand, in these cases, those \'\' of giant mould " are the first to feel \nthe effects. Then the little cheeses begin to look up, and aris- \ntocracy bows its head ; the levelling principle applied to the \nnext of rank is upwards and not downwards ; and so the little \nworld is balanced among those solitudes in the same way as in \nthe city among millionaires. \n\nWith the shepherds of Gessenay, every move is a fete ; and \nwhen they have only to cross a stream, or exchange one side hill \nfor another, or mount to the top of the next ledge, the procession \nis arranged in the same order ; the cow with the silver bell taking \nthe lead, the master of the troop with his shrill horn, and the \nyoung men and maidens, crowned with flowers, following accord- \ning to their rank, singing songs and filling the air with merry \nmusic. The picture of pastoral life is far pleasanter when whole \nfamilies dwell also in huts on the mountain, as it relieves the \ndreary solitude, which one cannot help thinking is neither plea- \nsant nor healthful. \n\nWe are almost ready to say with the proverbial line, \n*\' Where ignorance is bliss, \'tis folly to be wise." Here there is \nevidently the happiness which consists in ignorance and care- \nlessness of all the world beside. No prince looks with more \ncomplacency upon his subjects than he who sits upon some great \nboulder and watches his herds, one group descending a steep, \nanother coming out of a wood, a third traversing a prairie, till \nall are collected around him ; not less proud or tenacious of \n\n\n\n156 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntheir rank than the " Geheimrathe " and " Obergerichtsrathe " \nof Deutschland around the throne. The songs of the milkers are \nnot from cowboys alone, though theirs are sufficiently merry. \n\n"the SWISS BOY. \n\nI. \n\n" Come, arouse thee, arouse thee, my brave Swiss boy ! \n\nTake thy pail, and to labour away. \nCome, arouse thee, arouse thee, my brave Swiss boy ! \n\nTake thy pail, and to labour away. \nThe sun is up with ruddy beam. \n\nThe kine are thronging to the stream, \nCome, arouse thee, arouse thee, my brave Swiss boy ! \n\nTake thy pail, and to labour away. \n\n\n\n" Am not I, am not I, say, a merry Swiss boy, \nWhen I hie to the mountains away ? \n\nFor then a shepherd maiden dear \nAwaits ray song with listening ear. \n\nAm not I, am not I, then, a merry Swiss boy. \nWhen I hie to the mountains away ? \n\n\n\n" Then at night, then at night, oh ! a gay Swiss boy ! \nI\'m away, to my comrades away. \nThe cup we fill, the wine in passed \n\nIn friendship round, until at last. \nWith good night, and good night, goes the happy Swiss boy \nTo his home and his slumbers away !" \n\nBecause " a maiden dear, may await his song with listening \near," it follows, that loves and marriages both take place whilst \nthey are watchmg the herds and tending the flocks, but they \nare usually deferred to be solemnized on festal days in the vil- \nlage during the winter. \n\n\n\nFJRIBURG. 15 T \n\nThe well-meant but ill-directed zeal of the reformers led them \nto forbid the dance and song and festive mirth, not knowing \nthat, unless they substituted something in their place, they only \nproduced an aching void, which drove the revellers to darker \ndeeds. The human muid cannot Hve on vacancy, and it must \nbe one of marvellous construction that can support itself on \nsolitude. Statistics prove, that excitement does not cause so \nmuch insanity as meditation ; and not so many cases of madness \noccur in great cities as in rural solitudes. The first case of sui- \ncide among these simple Alpine people was known when they \nwere condemned to practice the forms of a new religion without \nunderstanding anything of its spirit. Neither their minds nor \nhearts had received any cultivation that fitted them for a serious \nand earnest hfe. What were they to do or think about, sud- \ndenly condemned to idleness, with no food for thought, and no \nidea of even the meaning of meditation ? \n\nStatistics also prove that there are not so many cases of \ninsanity among Catholics generally, as among Protestants. One \nreason may be that the assurances which they continually receive \nof pardon, and their credulity with regard to the ef&cacy of the \nmeans they use for salvation, preserve them from disturbing \ndoubts and fears, and the amusements which they are allowed \ndivert them from speculations which avail nothing even with \nstrong and healthy intellects, and must surely destroy weak \nones, if they do not utterly distract them. \n\nWe do not give this as an argument in favour of Catholicism, \nbut only as a fact. There is no reason why Protestants should \nnot be as happy as CathoUcs. Those who are ignorant, or \nthose who need it for any reason, whether of one faith or \nanother, should be furnished with healthful amusement ; and \nthose who are content with intellectual cultivation and resources, \n\n\n\n158 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nshould endeavour for an hour to conceive what they would do \nwithout them. \n\nA lady sits in her pleasant parlour, surrounded by every com- \nfort, and reads, in the columns of a newspaper, that \'\' there is \nto be a ball on Sunday evening, for servants and apprentices." \nShe exclaims in great horror against such a desecration of the \nSabbath, and wonders how people can indulge in such low \namusements. We do not say so to her, but we are very sure, had \nthese people possessed her advantages for cultivation, and had \nthey a beautiful house hke hers in which to receive company, and \ncould they purchase as many books and pictures, be entertamed \nwith music, and surround themselves with every luxury to mmister \nto thek senses or their souls, they would never once think of a \ndance in a miserable inn. To give them her pleasures till they are \ncapable of enjoying them, would be no kindness; but how many \nof them would she be willing to deny herself, in order that they \nmight be elevated and purified to enjoy what she does ? \n\nIt is the testimony of every traveller, that the difference be- \ntween Catholic and Protestant Switzerland is observed instan- \ntaneously when the line is crossed which divides them. The \nCatholics are not so intelligent, not so well clothed, and Uve not \nin so good houses. They usually occupy the regions most cold \nand rugged. Among the shepherds they form the greatest pro- \nportion. Their life is simple, their amusements many, and their \nreligious ceremonies performed with a grandeur which attracts \nand wins them. They are happy on earth, and believe they are \nfitted for heaven. They do not see the need of anything more. \n\nA Frenchman soliloquizes concerning them in the follovdng \nmanner : " Protestants spread in the valleys and liities, and are \nindustrious and rich. They have manufactories and gazettes \xe2\x80\x94 \nthey calculate rather than live: Their lives are passed between \n\n\n\nFRIBUEG. 159 \n\nthe comptoir and manufactory. They give to the service of \nGod only the tmie when they can do nothing else. Sober, cold, \nand quiet \xe2\x80\x94 they are rich. It is not the fault of the politicians \nof Basle that they do not set a printing-press or factory on every \npinnacle of the Alps ; but when they have made the shepherds \nas wise as journahsts, of Capuchins philanthropists, of the herds- \nmen as many weavers as at St. Gall, or heaux espits as at \nLausanne, what will they gain ? With all the effort and good- \nwill in the world, could they make finer men than at Appenzell, \nor more beautiful women than at Engleberg ? All science \ncould not make the pastures produce anything but grass, or the \nmilk anything but cheese 1 Should they live in palaces, could \nthey breathe a better air than on the Alps, or repose on bank- \nnotes, could they sleep more sweetly than in their cots ? Would \nthey be more happy, when with more wealth they had acquired \nmore care ? And should it ever happen, that another revolu- \nlution swept over Switzerland, would not the men of Uri or \nYalais defend their country as bravely as a gazetteer of Aargau, \na rhetorician of Lausanne, or a banker of Basle ?" \n\nThis reasoning sounds very well, but it is sophistry, neverthe- \nless. They might defend their country as bravely, to be sure, \nbut no more so ; and when there is calamity from fire, or sw^ord, \nor pestilence, whose bank-notes build again the cottages, give \nfood and clothing to the poor, and bid peace and plenty smile \nagain in the desolate land ? For centuries, the monks and their \nestabhshments were supported by collections from every part of \nSwitzerland ; and the poor who crossed the mountains in their \npilgrimages, or to sell their cattle and produce, were entertained \nfree, and if they were sick, had every care " without money and \nwithout price.-\' \n\nIt is not the whole of religion to attend church or make long \n\n\n\n160 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nand many prayers. That this proves a very pleasant and profit- \nable diversion to those who have no other way of spending their \ntime we doubt not ; but there is a higher faith and better \ncharity than this. It requires far more grace to perform well \nthe active duties of life than it does to listen to fine music, good \nsermons, or beautiful prayers. A man may be a better Christian \nin a counting-house than in a cathedral, because it depends \nentii-ely on the motive with which he performs the duties of both \nplaces whether he is a Christian at all. The herdsmen of XJri \nand Yalais may be as good and happy as the merchants of \nBasle, Zurich, and St. Gall, but this is no reason for leaving \nthem in ignorance and superstition. jS\'either is it of any use to \nmake laws forbidding them, or any other class of people, to \ndance or make merry, so long as they are not educated for a \nhigher life. Those who preach to them from the pulpit should \nalso do more ; and those who sit in pleasant parlours and call \nthem heathen, should ask, "What has made the difference \nbetween me and thee ?" Christ not only preached " the sermon \non the mount," but he walked about among the people, attended \ntheir weddings and their feasts, entered their cottages, and par- \ntook of their humble fare. Who does not see that the presence \nof superior refinement and intelligence on any of these occasions \nwould soften the merriment and refine the character ? Alas I \nfrom whom shall we expect such an effort and such a sacrifice, \namong all those who deplore the degeneracy and ignorance of \nthe people \xe2\x80\x94 among those who profess to be the disciples and \nfollowers of Him who " went about doing good ?" \n\nThe law again allowed the peasants of Gessenay first to dance \non week-days and at certain annual festivals ; but now there is \nno restriction \xe2\x80\x94 they may dance all the year. It was found they \nwould resort to the woods and ravines at midnight, and the evil \n\n\n\nFKTBUEG. 161 \n\nconsequences became more, and had a more frightful fatality, \nthan when they were permitted to assemble at proper times and \nin proper places. \n\nThey have a curious custom of assembling at little inns called \ncabarets, after morning service in church at New Year\'s Eve, \nevery unmarried youth conducting a maiden, whom he has chosen \nfor the occasion. They spend two or three days there together, \nand when they leave are betrothed. The marriages are per- \nformed at the Feast of Annunciation, when they go in pairs to \nchurch, powdered to correspond with their mountains, and the \nbridegroom carrying a long sword. If it is a widow who mar- \nries, they choose a king, and bear him on their shoulders around \nthe village, with great noise and shouting, finishing with theatri- \ncals, representing various scenes in their history. \n\nA traveller relates, that one day, when climbing the moun- \ntains, he met a young ghl who had sole charge of the flocks and \nherds, no other person being within miles of her. He asked her \nto give him a cup of milk. She answered, " The milk belongs \nto my mother." " But I am very thirsty," said the wanderer. \nShe looked down a moment in deep thought, and then ran \nquickly away, and soon returned with a foaming tankard. He \noffered her money, and she said with serious surprise, " You told \nme you were thirsty, and I gave you milk ; what would my \nmother say if I sold her milk ?" \n\nSimilar instances of patriarchal unworldliness are still to be \nmet everywhere among the shepherds, and still a thousand years \nmay leave them unchanged. So long as their Ufe is so simple, \ntheir hearts and minds must retain a corresponding childish sim- \nplicity. \n\nTheir superstitions have the same character, and their mytho- \nlogy is fashioned according to their mountain domains and their \n\n\n\n162 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ndaily labours. Any calamity in tlieir dairies is ascribed to evil \nspirits, and fortunately the countercharm is not less convenient \ntlian the instruments of evil. By striking upon the cauldron of \ncheese, insupportable torments are inflicted upon the invisible \ninhabitants of the air, and put an end to their machinations. \n\nA young shepherd was tempted to leave his herds and follow \nthe chamois, but no success attended him. He wandered far \n2.nd wide, and at length lost his way and sank to the earth from \nweariness and exhaustion. Then appeared one of the spirits of \nthe mountain, and said, " The chamois which you hunt are mine, \nwhy do you make war upon them ? Arise and return to your \nflocks, and if you trespass no more upon my domains, you will \nagain prosper." He was then guided by the spirit to his cabin, \nand deserted not again his troops. \n\nLong ago there lived, in a fertile valley of the Senetsch, an \nold woman, so rich that she could cover with her cheese all the \nway from the village to the mountain, but she was also miserly, \nand so avaricious that she would not give a morsel to the poor \nor the hungry. One day she met a woman very old and desti- \ntute, who begged her for a bit of cheese. She refused, leaving \nher to famish by the wayside. But it was an angel in human \nform, who immediately arose and shook the mountains, so that \ntheir foundations gave way, and the valley was devastated with \nruins. To this day it is called "Mont Ferdu/\' as a warning to \nall against inhospitality and avarice. \n\nThe inhabitants of Friburg are divided into three distinct \nclasses \xe2\x80\x94 German, Burgundian, and Roman. In the region of \nGruyere they belong to the last division, having a peculiar \nlanguage, a peculiar dress, and a peculiar beauty. They wear \nlittle felt hats, with many flowers, ribbons, and laces. The hair \nis drawn back from the forehead, so tight that it leaves the top \n\n\n\nFEIBUEG. 163 \n\nof the head soon bald, being braided and tied with a velvet rib- \nbon. The scarlet bodice is laced, and very stiff, giving them an \nungraceful air, especially when old. Among the German popu- \nlation, the dress is like that of Berne, with the exception of little \nblack caps crimped up at both sides. In other villages, on the \nborders of Yaud, the head is weighed down with great crushing \nbraids of hair, matted with oil, and surrounded with a broad- \nbrimmed straw hat. But on festival days scarlet is the univer- \nsal costume, with a black silk apron, a white kerchief on the \nneck, and silver chain, to which is attached a round box, which \nthey carry as a charm. \n\nBulle, some fifteen miles from Friburg, and near Gruyere, is \nthe great dkjpot for the cheeses as they come down from the \nmountains, for the wood which is cut in the forest, and the \nstraw which is braided in the valleys. It is here, therefore, that \nthe great fairs are held, and droves of fatted cattle come in \nautumn to find purchasers, and where the hats are gathered \ntogether by hundreds and thousands ; and a little further down, \nat Romont and St. Dennis, the beautiful horses are prancing \nand neighing which have been trained in the little republic to \nform the cavalry legions of kings and emperors. \n\nFriburg is not less interesting in its history and development \nthan the other cantons ; but we have dwelt so long upon the \npresent, that we have no room for the past. The people are \nmostly Catholic, and the influence of the priesthood, with that \nof the government, was against culture. Before It 98, there \nwas not a school in the country ; and every one who could read \nand write was considered a marvel. But in 180t, the famous \nPeter Girard * commenced a system of instruction which spread \nhis renown as a pedagogue throughout Europe, and in 1830 the \n\n* Girard was a monk. \n\n\n\n164 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ngoYernment assumed the care of public education. To send \ntheii\' children to school from the age of six to fifteen is obliga- \ntory upon all parents ; and the State supports a normal school \nfor the preparation of teachers, who have a fund, which the \ngovernment also aids, for the assistance of the sick and infirm. \n\nThe cantonal colours are black and white, in equal propor- \ntions, and the votes at elections given still by the simple \nmode of raising the hands. \n\nThe modern methods of agriculture have been universally \nadopted, and every village has its union dairy, as in Canton \nYaud, the number of cows having increased many thousands in a \nfew years, and the value of each cow also many per cent. \n\nStraw-braiding, as we have said, is the principal industry, \nbesides cheese, and there must be nearly a hundred thousand \nsquare rods of land devoted to raising rye and wheat to obtain \nthe material. Upon this same land, between four and five thou- \nsand quarters of grain would be reaped if it were allowed to \nripen, thus taking, it might seem, so much from the amount of \nbread in all countries where straw is braided. But, of course, \nwithout the demand for straw, no such quantities of rye or \nwheat would be sown ; the people know whether it is more \nprofitable to make hats or loaves, and would not do the one if \nthe other yielded the greater benefit in any way. \n\nHunting is a privilege granted by the State, but upon the \nvoices of the singing birds there is no price, and they seem to be \nmore in number than in any other forests, and sing in sweeter \nstrains. The flowers, too, are of marvellous beauty. \n\nThe ladies of the city have the gifts of grace in manner and \nconversation ; but the city itself is so old that its age cannot be \ntold, and its beauties are all of the dilapidated order. The \nbridge across the river Saane is, like their organ, one of the \n\n\n\nFRIBUKG. 165 \n\nwonders of the world, and built by natives of the canton, who \nhad never seen a suspension-bridge before. The architect was a \nFrenchman. It looks, at a distance, like a thread stretched \nacross ; but when it was finished, in 1834, the bishop of the \ntown, the members of the government, and two thousand persons \nmarched over it twice in procession, preceded by a miUtary band. \nIt was one of the grandest gala days in the experience of the \ncanton, though popes and cardinals have marched through her \nstreets. This was a great triumph of art, and a noble monu- \nment of their public spirit. \n\nThe architect of their organ was born on their soil, and they \nhave produced a painter second only to Holbein. A naturalist \nfrom Friburg is attached to the royal gardens of Paris, and they \nboast of many historians and military men. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XI. \n\nNEUCHATEL. \n\nQUEEN BERTHA \xe2\x80\x94 TROUBLE WITH PRUSSIA \xe2\x80\x94 MILITARY SYSTEM \xe2\x80\x94 -WATCH- \nMAKING \xe2\x80\x94 LANGUAGE. \n\n\n\nThe history of Neuchatel has been the most intricate, and her \nlife the most turbulent of any of the cantons, and only since two \nyears has she been quite settled in full membership with the \nConfederacy. At the time of her alliance, and ever afterwards, \nshe was a sort of princedom or landgravate, belonging first to \none ducal house and then to another, who, either by conquest or \ninheritance, claimed a right to rule over her. \n\nThe country was first held in fief by one of the princes of the \nhouse of Burgundy ; and in the tenth century. Queen Bertha, \nwife of Rudolph II., ruled, who was beloved in her Hfe, and \nmourned in her death, and whose memory is still precious among \nthe people. \n\nShe was called Bertha the Spinner, and in Neuchatel and Can- \nton Yaud the anecdotes and legends concerning her are the win- \nter tales and summer visions of every household. She is said to \nhave founded the Collegiate Church of Neuchatel, in 938, and \nthere to have had her principal castle, though it was then but a \n\n166 \n\n\n\nNETJCHATEL. 167 \n\nsmall hourg, with a few dwellers in Imts for its inhabitants. \nBut she went from village to village, stopping a little time with \none prince, and then with another ; and as she rode along she \nwas an example to all women, for she held the distaff before her, \n"spinning as she went."* Her husband was long absent in \nItaly, and she ruled his subjects as a loving mother rules her \nchildren. In a httle church in one village, where she is repre- \nsented as having set the example of spinning, is a picture of her, \nunder which is written, ^^ Bertha, thehurnhk Queen J\' \n\nShe established in every cloister a school for youth, a hospital \nfor the sick, and provision for travellers. She caused many for- \ntresses to be built for protection, and her husband also regarded \nthe rights of the people ; so that everywhere now, those who \nrespect industry, economy, and piety, mention their names with \nthe same honour and love as that of the fatherland. \n\nAfter a wet winter, the peasants still believe she appears and \nscatters a sackful of treasures over the land. It was she who \ncaused the vines to be planted ; and once she saw afar off a \nmaiden spinning while she tended her sheep, and bestowed upon \nher gifts to encourage industry. She knew how many eggs were \nlaid in her hennery, and attended to her maidens at the wheel, \nand the labourers in the field. \n\nIt is not strange that the descendants of one whose memory \nwas so cherished should have also found favour in the eyes of the \npeople, though they were far from inheriting her virtues. In \nthe course of centuries, the claimants to the little princedom \nbecame very numerous, so that, in the commencement of the \nthirteenth century, there were thirteen who professed to inherit \nsole right and title to the succession. Their power was not very \n\n* It is said also that she rode after the fashion of men, otherwise she could not have \nEpun.. \n\n\n\n1C8 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ngreat, to be sure, as the people guarded jealously their rights \nand privileges ; yet, whoever lived in the castle was called \n^\'Prince of Nmdiatdr In ItOt the heirs of one line became \nextinct, and it was necessary to choose another. Frederic I. of \nPrussia was one of the pretenders ; and, because he was a Pro- \ntestant, and they were just then very jealous of France and \nCatholicism, they gave the preference to him, exacting, at the \nsame time, a promise that he would confirm them in their rights \nand privileges, and not disturb their alhance with the Swiss. \nThus they remained a century, when, in the wars and treaties \nwith Napoleon, France again acquired possession of Neuchatel ; \nand when her fortunes changed once more, it fell back to Prussia. \n\nIn the meantime there had risen a strong party, who wished \nto make the canton a republic and ally on equal terms with the \nother states of the Confederacy ; and the Congress of Vienna, \nin 1815; whilst acknowledging Prussia as nominal chief in Neu- \nchatel, incorporated it also as one of the cantons of the Swiss \nConfederation. So it remained till 1830, with a republican \nparty striving to get entirely free from Prussia, and a royalist \nparty striving as earnestly to effect a separation from the Swiss. \nThe majority of the people wished to belong to Switzerland ; \nand, from its position and relationship, this seemed the most nor \ntural appropriation. \n\nThe French revolution disturbed them again, and it was soon \nfound that the half-way connexion was a hindrance, rather than \na help, to the Confederation. In trouble, Keuchatel could be \nof no service, because she was not free to act her pleasure ; and \nwhen the new constitution was formed, in 1848, the Confederacy \nrefused to admit her on the old terms, and a Prussian army was \nsoon on her borders. \n\nIt was evident to both\' parties that there could be no more \n\n\n\nNEUCHATEL. 169 \n\npeace without war, yet diplomacy, and the interference of the \n"great powers," deferred an open rupture several years still. \n\nThe royalist party, however, were not idle, and, on the night \nof September 2d, 1856, the people were surprised by a party \ntaking possession of the castle, imprisoning the members of the \nGovernment, and proclaiming the King of Prussia. \n\nThe republicans flew to arms, and their friends in the neigh- \nbouring cantons came quickly to their aid. Seven hundred roy- \nalists were taken prisoners, and the old Government restored. \nPrussia felt bound, of course, " to maintain her honour," and \nsucceeded in winning France to join her in threatening all man- \nner of evils to Switzerland if the rebels in Neuchatel were not \nsubdued. \n\nThe Federal Government had not hitherto meddled in the \nmatter, as the little canton did not belong to them, but when \nFrance stood defiant on one side, and Germany offered free pas- \nsage to a Prussian army to march to their destruction, it was \ntime for the Government to awake. It was a good opportunity \nof proving their union and their strength ; and there was great \nrejoicing among the crowned heads and the advocates of the \n" right divine," as they were sure an end was now to be made \nfor ever of the troublesome republic. \n\nIt was not ten days before the Christmas of 1851 that the \ndecree was issued setting forth the danger, and when the festal \nmorning arrived it found 16,000 homes deprived of husband, \nson, or brother, who had voluntarily shouldered the gun and \nknapsack, and in an hour transformed themselves into soldiers \nfor the defence of the fatherland, and by each Christmas fire \nwere the arms of those who remained, to be ready at a moment\'s \nwarning. The forest cantons, who were themselves the rebels \nin the war of the Sonderbund, had already forgotten their \n\n8 \n\n\n\n170 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nprivate feuds, and rallied to a man around tlie common standard. \nMany, too, in other lands, when the intelhgence reached them, \nhastened home, never thinking a moment of private interests \nwhen there was a common danger. \n\nThis was an mle3^pected demonstration, and the armies of \nkings and empires resolved to pause before engaging in such a \nstrife. Diplomacy was again invoked, and Prussia at length \nresigned her claim to what she had no power to hold, and \nNeuchatel became a member of the Swiss Confederacy. But \nthe lovers of court titles and hveries are still many within her \nlimits, and their pretensions, if not their hopes, are far from \nbeing extinguished. \n\nDuring these troubles, many families of both parties lost their \npossessions. In Prussia a subscription was opened for the suffer- \ning nobility, and 112 thalers obtained, which was, a long time \nafterwards, increased by a rich lady to t,525 ! Among the \nSwiss, more than a hundred thousand francs were received im- \nmediately for the families of soldiers who had lost husbands or \nbrothers, and in one factory the labourers, eighty-seven in num- \nber, taxed themselves for this object, and contributed nine \nhundred francs, and the proprietors 1,440. \n\nA large debt was left by the princely government, which has \nbeen entirely liquidated by their successors. \n\nAll Switzerland had for the first time acted in perfect unison. \nThis increased their confidence, showed them the benefit of one \nunited government, and proved to all Europe that neither the \nGovernment nor its military were to be despised. \n\nIn Switzerland, as in Prussia, every man is required to be a \nsoldier when he arrives at the age of twenty years ; but in all \nthings else the systems of the two countries have no resemblance. \nFor military exercises and instruction no Swiss is required to \n\n\n\nNEUCHATEL. 171 \n\nspend so much time as to interfere with his trade or profession, \nor to prevent his having a home, which will attach him all the \nmore to his country, and make him all the more brave in its \ndefence. Every town and commune has its muster-ground, \nwhere certain companies are required to practice two afternoons \na week, others one, or at specially appointed times. Each \nfurnishes his own uniform, which is very simple; but the Govern- \nment or State supphes the guns and ammunition, drums, \ntrumpets, and other musical instruments. These companies \nmeet at stated periods for evolutions, and every two years \nthere is a grand review, at which every canton, and per- \nhaps every company, is represented. At Thoune there is a \nmilitary school for the education of officers and those who \ninstruct the companies of the different cantons, which is of course \nsupported by the Federal Government, and in every canton an \narsenal. \n\nBesides these, schoolboys from ten to fifteen are formed into \ncompanies, in regular uniform, with arms, music, and colours, to \nbe drilled by regular officers with not less care than are those \nwho are required by law to learn the same tactics. We have \nseen them marching into town in columns half a mile long, with \nall the regularity of veteran troops. \n\nThe wilhngness with which every man marches, not only to \nthe parade-ground, but to the battle-field, is in striking contrast \nto the hatred manifested in Germany to a system which requires \nthe sacrifice of the best years of their lives without any hope of \nreward. In 1854, Austria found, in making her usual enrol- \nments, 1,414 who had voluntarily mutilated themselves for life, \nto get rid of the detested service ; and m the Bavarian Pfalz of \n600,000 inhabitants, during the two years of 1853 and 1854, it \nis found that 9,341 have secretly fled their country to evade the \n\n\n\n172 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nsame requirement.* It is not the battle-field or the defence of \ntheir country which they flee, but the waste of time in life\'s best \nperiod, which unfits them for the duties on which life and posi- \ntion depend. \n\nFor the defence of important posts, peculiarly exposed to an \ninvading army, strong fortresses have been built ; and a fund \nhas been created for the assistance of those who are disabled in \nwar, and the families of those who have fallen in battle. This \nfund was increased by a legacy of about five hundred thousand \ndollars, from a rich Genevese, which was certainly a valuable \nand honourable testimony of his confidence in the Federal \nGovernment and its military system. The facility with which \nthey rallied and formed a bulwark on their borders, when the \nlast cry of war resounded throughout Europe, proved their capa- \nbilities equal to that of any army in Europe ; and that years \nof discipline do not make legions invulnerable was proved \nwhen Austrians fell by thousands on Italian plains before French \nand Italian enthusiasm. \n\nThe eagle of Hohenzollern was not only banished from the \nland, but also removed from the escutcheon of the Neuchatelois, \nwhere it had been engrafted upon the crown, which was origi- \nnally upon their national ensign, with three broken rafters of \nsilver upon a shield of red. \'Now appears a small cross upon a \nred stripe, which, with two others of white and green, divides the \nwhole into three equal parts, cut vertically. Whether these \nhave any reference to the peculiarity of tliis canton in possessing \nthree distinct climates, we do not know ; but, though only forty \nsquare leagues in extent, she is by her lake and her mountains \nas distinctly divided into three zones of frigid, temperate, and \n\n* Dr. Kolb, of Speier. \n\n\n\nNETJCtlATEL. 173 \n\ntorrid. Her pastures occupy one, her cultivated fields another, \nand her vineyards a third. \n\nHer industry is also divided into three distinct branches \xe2\x80\x94 the \nmaking of lace, printing of calico, and manufacture of watches. \nTrade and commerce experienced from the earliest times scarcely \nany restrictions, and in the last few years villages have grown to \ntowns with a rapidity not equalled anywhere on the Continent. \n\nSo early as 1700, laces were made, which were carried by \ncolporteurs to the south of France and Italy, and in 1H2 nearly \nthree thousand persons were employed in this industry. Not \nonly women and children, but aged men are seen with the \nHoppers, which are confined mostly to Val de Travers, where \nnow some five or six thousand devote a portion of their time to \nthem, but where agriculture also claims their first attention, and \nthe lace, like the ribbons of Basle and the muslin of Appenzell, \nis the knitting-wm-k for the leisure hours. It lies about till it is \nblack as smoke and dust can make it, and is then rendered \nbeautiful by bleaching and pressing, the whole process being \nmore marvellous than in articles wrought with a needle. \n\nThere are still a few of the old houses, where the only chim- \nney is a few planks, to give a little direction to the smoke, \nwhich, however, submits itself to no such guidance, till it has \nconverted the walls into soot ; but they are fast disappearing, \nand those which take their place are great square buildings, \nample in all their provisions, with stone-floors and brick chhnneys, \nwalls and roofs of wood. \n\nMoitiers, where Rousseau lived and wrote his " Letters from \nthe Mountains," is the most ancient village of Val de Travers ; \nbut here, as well as in some of the others, there are very patri- \ncian-looking residences, which may for all we know be inhabited \nby genuine Swiss patricians. \n\n\n\n174 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nWe are more interested in those who dwell iu the cottages \nwhich are scattered among the momitains, or stand in long rows \nalong the streets, forming connecting links to the villages. \nHere are the watchmakers. Though they had long been made \nelsewhere, the people of ]S"euchatel had not seen a watch so late \nas 16*19, when an Englishman, who was travelhng through the \nvalley of the Sagne, found his own out of order, and asked, if \nthere was any one who could repair it. A boy fourteen years \nold, who had become known in the valley for his skill in various \nhandicrafts, was recommended, and not only succeeded in setting \nit right, but attempted to make one like it. Six months he \nstudied and toiled, and at length completed one, of which every \npart, not only of the interior, necessary to motion, but the case, \ngilding, and engraving, were all made by himself. With the aid \nof his brothers he finished several, all being very simple, aud \nhaving but one hand. Others learned of them, and in the course \nof half a century they made two or three hundred wiii very \nlittle improvement in the outward appearance or machinery. \n\nTowards 1750 three brothers, by the name of Perrelet, in- \nvented many machines to facilitate the manufacture of watches, \nand afterwards made important discoveries in science, which are \nmentioned elsewhere. \n\nBerthoud, who wrote a celebrated treatise on watchmaking, \nwas born in a village of Neuchatel, and his nephew perfected \nmarine clocks. Breguet was of a refugee family, and afterwards \nbecame the most celebrated watchmaker of Paris, where his \ngrandson is now the heir of his genius and his wealth. \n\nBetween two and three hundred thousand are finished annually \namong these villages, a great portion of which go to Geneva, \nand gain an extra value in the eyes of purchasers by assuming a \ncity name. \n\n\n\nNKUCHATEL. 175 \n\nIt is always a curious problem, but alas ! never solved, why \npeople choose such dreary solitudes for their habitations, when \nthere are thousands of sunny slopes and smiling valleys with \nroom enough and to spare. \n\nAmong these mountains of the Jura the sky is black, the air \nis grey, and the snow is blue. In the course of the year they \nhave 230 days of rain, or snow, or clouds, and only 135 of clear \nweather. The severe storms are not very many, but the summer \nis one long drizzling rain ; the houses are saturated with water, \nand thus quickly decay, besides having a peculiarly dismal ap- \npearance ; and the people are not only saddened, but embittered \nby their climate. They are shut out from all the rest of the \nworld, absorbed in the labour of very little things, and thus be- \ncome narrow and gloomy in their minds and temperaments. \n\nBut the rains keep the summer verdure of a most brilliant \ngreen, and the winter nights have a peculiar splendour. The \nblue of the sky seems darker than elsewhere, so that the stars in \ntheir countless myriads seem imbedded in jet, and the little \nshops, brilliantly illuminated for the long evening toil, seem to \nanswer to the lights of heaven. \n\nThe snow sometimes falls to the depth of thirty feet, and \nwhen it has attained the height of two feet, it assumes a beau- \ntiful azure tint, which cannot be reflected from the firmament, \nbecause it is brightest when the sky is overcast with clouds, a \nfact which no philosopher has yet been able to explain. \n\nNot only the watches, but all the materials necessary to the \nmechanism are perfected ; and men, women, and children are all \nemployed on some article of gold, silver, wood, ivory, glass shell \nor enamel, and in the larger shops are exhibited all the different \nkinds of timekeepers for land and sea in every part of the \nworld. \n\n\n\n176 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nProfessor Agassiz is still a citizen of Neuchatel, where he \nwas formerly professor, and the Museum in return professes to \nbe greatly indebted to him for all sorts of monstrosities in the \nform of geological, conchological, and zoological specimens. \n\nPurysburg, in South Carolina, was settled by a colony from \nthis canton in 1^34 ; and the leader, who gave his name to the \nsettlement, left to his native city, forty years later, the sum of a \nmillion of dollars, which he acquired as jeweller, owner of mines, \nbanker, etc. ; and a hospital, orphan house, and various other \ninstitutions and improvements are the results of his beneficence. \nFrom the villages of the Jura two hundred went to North \nCarolina in 1804, and purchased lands belonging to Kosciusko. \n\nThere is scarcely anything remaining of old customs or old \nlife, less, perhaps, than in any other canton. The religion is \nProtestant, but in all temporal things subject to the State, \nwhich takes care of the revenues and pays the pastors. The \nlaw makes public instruction obligatory in every commune, and \nthe poor are taught gratis. Teachers are obhged to take the \noath of fidelity to the constitution. In the departments of \nnatural history, mechanics, and the fine arts, jSTeuchatel has \nproduced many distinguished men. Guyot, Lesquereus, and \nMatile have also gone to America. Brandt, a distinguished \nengraver of medals, recently died at Berlin ; and Forster, of \nLocle, obtained the medal of honour at the Paris Exposition, in \n1855. \n\nThe Swiss often become famous as individuals without bring- \ning any honour to their country ; because, having either a. \nGrerman or French name, they are supposed by other nations to \noriginate in one of these countries ; and only those who are ac- \nquainted with them personally, or happen to read their tomb- \nstones, ever learn that they are natives of Switzerland. "Wo \n\n\n\nNEUCHATEL. 1 77 \n\nhave more than once heard English people inform Germans of \nthe works of certain English authors, quite in ignorance that \nthey were American ; and the Tauchnitz edition, published at \nLeipsic, makes no distinction between those of one country and \nthe other, calling all English who speak this notable language. \n\nWe cannot help thinking always in Switzerland, it is a pity \nthey have not one national language, though in time, perhaps, \nGerman may become so. It is infinitely amusing to be obliged \nto ask, on all occasions, before addressing a Swiss, what lan- \nguage he speaks ; for though we know that upon the eastern bor- \nders their language is French, and on the northern German, there \nare many indefinite limits, where it is far from certain whether \nthey speak one or the other. If in a hotel, we begin with ask- \nmg for the pfeffer, and, not obtaining it, we say poivre, to find \nat last that an English waiter has been procured for the benefit \nof travellers, and understands nothing but pepper. The higher \nclasses generally speak French and German equally well ; and \ncoachmen and postilions know as much of one as the other, and \nsometimes English and Italian in addition. But it is often the \ncase that in the same town one family or individual prefers to \nspeak French and another German ; so that one is never sure \nwhether he should say Monsieur or Mein Herr, Frau or \nMadame. \n\nThe constitution makes German, French, and Italian national ; \nand all laws and public documents must be printed in these \nlanguages ; and it is also required that the German be taught \nin all the public schools. Besides these there are nearly fifty \nthousand people who speak Romanish, or Romane, which has \nalways been retained by those who were longest the subjects of, \nor mingled with, the Romans. It has eight dialects, and is \nspoken principally in Graubiinden, some parts of the Oberland, \n\n8* \n\n\n\n178 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nand districts of other cantons. Xot many years ago, the Bible \nwas translated into this language, and other books and journals \nhave been printed in the same. \n\nGerman is the base of forty dialects, and is the language of a \nmajority of the people. It has some peculiarities entirely dis- \ntinct from any language spoken in Germany ; but Schlegel says, \nthe poem of Niebdungen, and similar ones of the Middle Ages, \nwhen placed before a Swiss peasant, are immediately compre- \nhended. Though the German grammar says the auxiliary verb \nthun corresponds exactly with the English to do, the Germans \nvery seldom use it ; but in Switzerland they make it answer all \npurposes in the same way ; and other analogies, both in words \nand phrases, to the English, are many and striking. In some \ndistricts they clip all the words, as I will nit for Ich will nicht, \nthe first sounding very much like I will not, and say Maddi for \nMadchen. \n\n"We heard a German one day address a woman in the market \nabout her cheese, and not at all understanding him, she said, " I \ndo not speak French !" But we found no difficulty anywhere in \nunderstanding those who had been educated in school. \n\nFrench is spoken in Geneva, N\'euchatel, Yaud, and by two- \nthirds of the Yallasians. Yet among the peasantry there are at \nleast twenty patois, in which are Latin, Italian, Spanish, and \nGreek words. \n\nAmong the representatives to the Federal Council, fifteen \ndeputies speak German, and seven French. But if you mention \nthese varieties as a reason why they cannot harmonize as one \nnation, or do not seem fitted to belong together, they ask in \nanswer, \'\' Is not France formed of Celts, Franks, Burgundians, \nFlemings, Germans, Bretons, Spaniards, and Languedocs ? Has \nnot England her Bretons, Anglo-Saxons, Scotch and Irish? \n\n\n\nNEUCIIATEL. 179 \n\nPrussia Brandenburgians, Saxons, Poles, and French ? Is not \nAustria made up of Boliemians, Hungarians, Germans, and \nItalians ? and Germany herself of Suabians, Saxons, Austrians, \nPrussians, Poles, Swedes, and Westphalians ?" Which is true, \njet one does not seem to notice it so particulary as in Switzer- \nland. But that there is some common cement, must be true, else \nthey could not have been so long either partially or wholly united. \nThis bond is now becoming more firm every day, and the feeling \nof brotherhood stronger. A national pride is awakening that \nleads them to forget cantonal and sectional interests ; and though \ntheir enemies say there are traitors in Geneva, and restless spirits \nin Neuchatel, that would at any time betray their country to \nFrance and much prefer to become subjects to the emperor, we \ndoubt whether there are any great number ; and there must be \nvery few who would incur the hatred and odium of treason for \nany reward which France could offer. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XII. \n\n\n\nSOLEURE. \n\n\n\nPATRICIANS \xe2\x80\x94 MATERIAL INTEREST \xe2\x80\x94 JOURNALISM \xe2\x80\x94 OLD LA^^S \xe2\x80\x94 HOUSES \xe2\x80\x94 \nFIRST AGRICULTURAL SOCIETIES \xe2\x80\x94 COSTUMES. \n\n\n\nThere are only three or four cantons where families may be \nfound who still live upon rents, and consider it degrading to \npractise a profession or trade, or know anything of the details \nof business, Soleure is one of these, and " we the patricians " \nhave always played a conspicuous part in the history of the can- \nton in the old tunes and in the new. \n\nAmong those who are called the lower orders there exists a \npeculiar hatred towards this class, who are said to have beea \nalways the enemies of progress, and to have united in everything \nthat could oppress the mechanics and peasantry. The man \nbehind the plough was considered of no more consequence than \nthe horse before it. The tithes and taxes of every sort robbed \nhim of the fruits of his labour, and there was no motive for \nattempting to improve his condition. \n\nThe patrician class were always believed to be in correspond- \nence with and corrupted by the French nobility, and also by the \nemissaries of the monarchs who wish to obtain Swiss soldiers, \n\n180 \n\n\n\nSOLEURE. 181 \n\nSwiss money, Swiss neutrality, or in any way Swiss influence and \naid. Tlie governments, when in the hands of these oUgarchists, \nwere accused of making a regular trade with foreign powers, \nselling men to war, and receiving money with which to revel in \nluxury. \n\nForeign ambassadors and agents were always residing among \nthem, using every art to weaken their principles and render \nabortive their power, whilst professing for them the greatest \nadmiration and paying them the greatest homage. No canton \nsuffered more from these influences perhaps than Soleure.* No \nother sent so many of her youth into foreign service, where \nmany of them became estranged from the fatherland, and no \nlonger content with the simple life and manners in which they \nhad been educated. \n\nWe see it more and more as a cause of lamentation, that so \nmuch of the best talent of the country should have gone to ren- \nder the annals of other nations illustrious. If the energy of \nthose who had been distinguished as officers alone, had been \ndevoted to any department of usefulness at home, what an age \nof progress they might have made, which would have given them \na so much higher rank in the scale of nations. As it is, all the \nbravery they have manifested, and the glory they have won, has \nonly covered their own land with shame. \n\nWe have met people so democratic in Europe, that they con- \ndemned the Americans as severely for building ships and rail- \nroads for the autocrat of Russia, as the Swiss for fighting the \nbattles of France and Italy I Whatever analogy there may be in \nthe two cases, as far as the honour of republicanism is concerned, \nwe cannot help thinking it will be a happy day, not only for \n\n* The history of the " foreign service " will be found in the compendium of Swis3 \nnistory given in the Appendix, and it will there be seen that it no longer exists. \n\n\n\n182 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nSwitzerland, but for Europe, when science, art, and the active \nemployments of material life shall be considered worthy the ener- \ngies of men, rather than the corrupting idleness to which a \nsoldier is condemned whilst waiting the debasing and brutalizing . \nscenes of a field of battle. "What can be the observation, reflec- \ntion, or religion of a man and philosopher who utters it as a \ntaunt against England and America, that every man and woman \nis employed in some department of industry, mechanics, agricul- \nture, or in a sphere of mental labour that renders impossible the \ndreary stupidity and corroding inactivity to which half the people \nin this old world are doomed, whether willingly or not ? Yet \nwe have heard an American utter it. \n\nKussia is fast waking up to the truth ; and whatever the Empe- \nror may be, or whatever his motives, there are no people on the \nContinent so shrewd, so well informed, so liberal and disposed to \nadopt modern ideas, as the educated classes of Russia. They \nwere never trammeled by feudalism, they care very little for \netiquette, and when they are in the world conform to it, from \naffability or for the sake of improvement, as a German baron \nor a Swiss patrician would not do to save his land or his \nlife. \n\nIn Switzerland the press is free, but there is no popular jour- \nnalism, no attractive interesting modern Uterature, no mental \nactivity on popular questions, no lectures, as these things exist in \nEngland and America. It was in Berne that one of their own \ncitizens told me they were in a state bordering on lethargy. In \nNeuchatel, Geneva and Zurich, there is more mental activity, \nand regular contributors to their journals. The " dailies " have \na page of items clipped here and there from all foreign and home \njournals, and the remaining portion of the sheet is devoted to \nadvertisements. They criticise more freely what is done and \n\n\n\nSOLEUKE. 183 \n\nsaid, or not done and said, by the Government, and have the \nhberty to say whatever they please, that is not treason or libel, \nand yet they say nothing. An editor is a man of no more \ninfluence in the community than a shoemaker, and what he does \nrequires no more talent. \n\nIn book-pubhshing it is the same ; nearly all publishers are \nGermans, and they say reading is not so universal in Switzer- \nland as in Germany. The popular writers are by no means so \nmany, and literature has none of the importance and appreciation \nit deserves. \n\nWe saw in a village paper in canton Zurich a lamentable \npicture of the morals of the lower classes, a picture too gross \nfor the pages of a book, reveahng the secrets of the courts of \njustice, instances of child-murder and other revolting crimes, in \nnumbers which seemed incredible within the precincts of so small \na state. They ascribe the fault to neglect of parents and heads \nof families ; but it did not seem to occur to them that parents \nand heads of families cannot impress upon others a moral senti- \nment they do not feel and have never been educated themselves \nto regard. \n\nThose lower classes must have a different education, higher \nsubjects of interest and thought, and conversation \xe2\x80\x94 exactly \nwhat a popular hterature and press could furnish. \n\nJeremias Gotthdf commenced a good work a few years since \nin a series of popular tales, illustrative of daily hfe and man- \nners, charming in style and spirit, but his life ended when his \nwork began, and his mantle does not seem to have fallen upon \nany other. \n\nIn Soleure, they say, "my gracious lords" of the Govern- \nment and Council were always opposed to anything that could \ncreate intelligence and awaken thought ; and the same was true \n\n\n\n184 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nin general of the priesthood. As long as the people were igno- \nrant and stupid, they were obedient. \n\nAt the beginning of the seventeenth century something was \ndone for education, but the revolt of the peasants in 163.3 was \nan indication to the men in power that it was their duty to \nrevenge this attempt of the people to cast off the yoke of their \noppressors ; and instead of granting them the hope and relief \nthat would make them content and secure them for friends, they \ndrew tighter their bonds, increased their taxes, and not only dis- \ncouraged, but forbade all efforts to improve them. It is very \ncurious and sometimes amusing to notice the bitterness with \nwhich those who were in ofi&ce at that period are spoken of by \nthe people. So early as 1612 there is allusion to a school- \nmaster, and in the sixteenth century some attempt at collecting \nthe children for the purpose of learning to read and write. But \nsome one wrote of the schools at that time : \'\' A hundred child- \nren are together in one small room and taught A B C so dili- \ngently, that they learn it in five or six years I" " My gracious \nlords " did not choose that any one should be forced to go to \nschool ; it was easy to see what it would come to, if the people \nlearned reading and writing, and had schoolmasters. If they \nchoose to employ them, \'\' my g^cious lords " will not contribute \nthereto. \n\nAt the same time it was ordained, that houses with walls and \ntiles were to be built only \'\'for my gracious lord the bailiff and \nthe highly worthy pastor." Those for the peasantry were of \nboards, and covered with straw, dark and dismal as the times in \nwhich they lived. There are a few of them still, with the great \noverhanging roof, shutting out all light, a few beams of which \nmight otherwise enter through the little round panes, and the \ndoor a few feet high. The furniture is such as we have de- \n\n\n\nSOLEURE. 185 \n\nscribed in similar houses elsewhere. The Black-Forest clock ticks \nin the corner; over a round table hangs a mirror, surmounted by \na paper dove, emblem of the Holy Spirit, object of adoration for \nthe family, and favourite resting-place for the flies. A crucifix \nand Einsiedeln Mother of God hang against the wall, painted and \nsnioke-bedimmed, for the chimney is only an opening in the straw^ \nand willow-braided roof, covered with mortar, and the sooty \nparticles are sure to perambulate the apartment before determin- \ning to ascend to the upper regions; and here and there, in niches \nand receptacles, are pictures and souvenirs from nuns and capu- \nchins, all black and uncomfortable as it is possible to conceive. \n\nBut no new ones are built after this fashion. In every vil- \nlage are pretty cottages, with all modern improvements, tasteful \ngardens, and all the comforts they know anything about. We \nhope it will not be long before they will add a few to their cata- \nlogue in all Switzerland, which as yet they have never heard of, \nand life have a higher object than any with which they have \never tiiought of investing it. \n\nWe should not fail to record, that in Soleure, as in Friburg, \nit was to a Catholic priest that the people were first indebted \nfor anything deserving the name of school. Scarcely a peasant \ncould read or write when Ignatius Glutz determined to put an \nend to this ignorance, and another, Gabriel Leupi, followed up \nhis efforts. In 1811, the Government created a normal school, \nand ordained that every commune should support a teacher; but \nthe troubles of 1814 disturbed their operations, and not till 1830 \nwas a regular system of pubhc instruction estabhshed. The \ntrouble is, everywhere in Switzerland, that the compensation is \nso low few can make teaching their profession, and those who \ndo are not properly educated for their calling. \n\nIt is only within a short time that all privileges have been \n\n\n\n186 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nabolished, and only since the last French revolution, and the \nformation of a federal government on the true principles of \nequality, that gave all an equal interest in the affairs of the \nwhole, that a noble public spirit has begun to awake, and a \nnational feeling to pervade all classes. So long as they were \nabsorbed in then* httle cantonal affairs, they were narrow- \nminded. They say of themselves : "So long as the foreign ser- \nvice continued, especially with France, and French aristocracy \nexerted so much influence in their government and society, a \nSoleure gentleman was neither French, German, nor Swiss, but \na German-French-Swiss monster." But smce the war-service \nand the guilds are at an end, agriculture and manufactures have \nreceived a new impulse. \n\nSo early as 153t they built a canal, to connect the waters of \nthe Dunnen, several miles long and ten feet wide, by which \neighty-five thousand square rods of waste land were rendered \nfruitful. It was the first attempt of the kind in Switzerland, \nand the peasants laughed it to scorn ; but when it had suc- \nceeded, it was the best incitement to new efforts in this and other \nbranches of agriculture. \n\nThe Swiss annals allude to the bishops and priests of the \nearhest period of the Christian Church, as having families and \nwell-ordered households, as working in the field, holding the \nplough, and harnessing the ox thereto ; of their teaching the \npeople to plant and sow, to burn lime, and build with stones, to \nspin and make cloth, to take the place of the skins of beasts, \nwhich they wore. " Work and prayer," was the motto of the \nBenedictine monks. It was only in later years that they became \ndegenerate, when bad men entered the Church for the sake of \nthe honour and wealth it could bestow, and not for the good \nthey could do. When they ceased to be the true friends of the \n\n\n\nSOLEURE. 187 \n\npeople, and exercise over tliem a paternal care, they ceased to \nimprove ; and it was this degeneracy of the Church which led \nto the formation of all manner of benevolent associations and \nefforts by those who had no connection with it. Among these \nnone are more ef&cient in promoting the true interests of Christ- \nianity and civilization than "economic" and \'\' agricultutal \nsocietie." \n\nThe first of these founded in Switzerland, was by Zsckiffeli, \nin Berne, in It 59, and was composed of members of the govern- \nment, ecclesiastics, and agriculturists, for the purpose of im- \nproving husbandry. The special object of its founder was to \npopularize useful ideas, and to accomplish this he appealed to \nthe patriotism of all classes, and brought the experience of the \nlowest, as well as the theories of the highest, to his aid. He \nsaid, there could be no permanent improvement without light \nand knowledge, and therefore scattered publications upon all \nmatters concerning agriculture. It was through the influence \nof these, that extensive irrigation w^as introduced, the system of \nleaving fallow ground done away, and clover substituted, the \ncultivation of the potato made general, and science applied to \nthe culture of the vine. In a little time industry, commerce, \npolitical economy and legislation concerning social interests, fixed \nthe attention of the society, and opened a wider theatre of \nhonourable activity. This was the beghming of all similar \nefforts on the Continent, and half a century before serfdom was \nfairly abolished in Germany, and sixty years before a similar \nsociety was formed at Leipsic. \n\nIn no country are the profits of agriculture so great as in \nSwitzerland, where there are few great proprietors, and most \nfarmers own the soil they till. Nearly four hundred thousand \nfamilies are engaged in the different departments of husbandry, \n\n\n\n188 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nand only one hundred thousand in the different trades and pro- \nfessions. \n\nUnion dairies, and other associations described elsewhere, are \nnow general in Soleure ; nurseries for plants established in many \nplaces, and orchards everywhere like forests. Before this new \nawaking there were only fifteen kinds of fruits and thirty kinds \nof flowers known in the canton, where now are flourishing those \nof every climate and soil. \n\nIn the good old times, those halcyon days when a few oligar- \nchists ruled and the people obeyed, a peasant could not hunt in \nthe forest on penalty of dungeons and death, but the bailiff was \nallowed two hunters and twelve dogs, " whenever it pleased his \nhonour to enjoy this pastime.\'\' Now each person pays a small \nsum for the privilege, and it is free to all who care to avail them- \nselves of it at this price. \n\nFishing is granted in some places by the State, and in some \nby the communes, and also the privilege of ensnaring frogs and \ncrabs to their destruction, which is done by kindling fires of \nbrushwood on dark nights, and setting nets to entangle them, as \nthe foolish creatures hop out to see what is going on in the \nworld, and soon learn to their sorrow that they are no longer to \nknow anything, even in their own little domain. \n\nThey make a curious little cheese in Soleure, which they call \n" Geisskase/\' which would indicate that it was made of goats \nmilk, which is not at all the case, but from their diminutiveness \nthey may think it best to give them a humble name. They are \nonly four or five inches in circumference, and cost three or four \nsous. The process of making them is to place the new milk \nwith the rennet over the fire till it is lukewarm, and removing it, \nthey allow it to stand till the curds are formed, when it is again \nwarmed and put in moulds, where it is cut fine and stirred till it \n\n\n\nSOLEUEE. 189 \n\nis pulp. It is then poured off, salted, and dried a day or two, \nand placed in the cellar, where it must remain ten or fifteen \ndays, when it is washed in warm water, moulded, and wrapped \nin leaves for keeping, but, though palatable, they will not serve \nfor heirlooms. \n\nA great portion of the people are shepherds and agriculturists, \nbut in the larger towns and villages there are many factories, \nand their mechanics are renowned. \n\nOlten is the concentrating point for all the railroads from \nnorth, south, east, and west ; and on a summer\'s day, when all \nthe world is in motion, it seems as if all the world passed through \nhere indeed. Such a running and rushing \xe2\x80\x94 such a trundling of \nbaggage \xe2\x80\x94 such a confusion of tongues \xe2\x80\x94 such a jostling and \nscreaming, as we never elsewhere saw or heard. It seems for a \nlittle while impossible that such a crowd can ever get ticketed \nand numlered for the right place ; and the two or three hun- \ndi\'cd names in great letters hung through the length of the \nlong depot must be meant to bewilder rather than to guide. \nBut many times a day the same number come, make the same \nhurry and rush, and depart, each time leaving the little village \nas quiet as if only the wheel and the hammer had ever been \nheard in its midst. \n\nIt is especially famous for its coopers, and those who wish to \npurchase wine in Elsaz often come to Olten for the barrels in \nwhich it is to be exported. So expeditiously can a merchant be \nfitted out J that he arrives in the evening not knowing where a \nsingle article is to be found, and departs at break of day with \ntubs, hogsheads, chains, and all the apparatus for shipping tuns \nof wine. \n\nA thousand hundredweight of iron wire is drawn and rolled, \nand sent forth yearly. There are ribbon looms in the sur- \n\n\n\n190 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nrounding country, and stockings woven by the ten thousand \ndozen. \n\nThe cantonal colours are red and white, the robe of the Land- \nwdbel being white in front from the shoulder down. \n\nThe statute-books of the olden time are not less curious in this \nthan in the other cantons. Witches were burnt, and not they \nalone ; and those who were guilty of slander had the tongue \nslit. In 1581, some guild-brothers had quarrelled, and called \neach other names ; in solemn council the Government decided \nthat they should meet and drink wine together, each party fur- \nnishing a certain quantity, and my gracious lords would con- \ndescend to come and drink with them I \n\nIn 1661, a watchman who was found drunk and asleep was \ncondemned to stand by the fish-bench, on the market-place, \nholding a wooden halberd. In 1639, two women, who quarrelled \nand came to blows, were confined together in a small room, and \nobliged to eat out of the same dish with the same spoon. In \nIt 98, a man who threatened to cut down the tree of liberty was \nobliged to stand beside it with a wooden hatchet. \n\nThe people are Catholics, but the festivals are not so many \nas in the other Catholic cantons, baptisms and funerals being \nthe only occasions when the country people make a great dis- \nplay. The national dress, too, is fast disappearing. Formerly \nthe married women wore a black petticoat, and the maidens red, \na silver cross upon the bodice, white full sleeves, the hau\' in long \nbraids hanging behind, and on the head a broad-brimmed hat. \n\nIn another district the skirt was fastened to the waist with \na great roll like a sausage, filled with straw \xe2\x80\x94 a convenient rest- \ning-place for the hands in the dance. On festal days they wear \na silver wreath with red ribbons braided in the hair ; but the \nskirt is now usually black, the bodice cut low, Tsdth a full white \n\n\n\nSOLETJRE. 191 \n\nchemisette plaited within, and the silver chains passing under \nthe arm. \n\nThe cities of Soleure and Treves are said to have been the \nfirst founded by the Eomans on this side the Alps, and they \nhave still a Heidcnweg or road of the Pagans, as well as a \nstatue of Venus in Carrara marble, which prove, with many \nother relics, that this was occupied by a Roman colony. Their \ncathedral is a modern edifice, and not so attractive as those \nwhich have stood a thousand years, but is not less beautiful than \nsome which claim this additional honour ; but the clock-tower \non the market-place is ascribed to a period five hundred years \nbefore Christ. \n\nOne of the most distinguished of modern sculptors, Egger- \nschwyl, was a native of Soleure, and obtained the prize of honour \nat the Paris Exhibition in 1802, besides being the recipient of \nmany flattering distinctions from Napoleon. They have also \nproduced many historians and painters. Their heroes rest in \nforeign graves, but there are monuments to record their valour, \nand there came one to die among them who was not of them. \nIn this quiet and secluded place, Kosciusko bid farewell to \nearth, and ceased to dream of his country\'s glory. We see the \nhouse where he lived, and the coffin in which for a little while \nreposed his remams ; but his dust now mingles with that of his \nfathers on Cracow\'s plains, and the foot of the despot marches \nunheeded over the sod already, green above their heads. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XIII. \n\nZURICH. \n\nMODERN CITY \xe2\x80\x94 OLD LAWS\xe2\x80\x94 SILK MANUFACTURE \xe2\x80\x94 HAPPY HOMES \xe2\x80\x94 FROGS \nAND SNAILS \xe2\x80\x94 GREAT SHOOTING FESTIVAL. \n\nSo long ago as the thirteenth century, when all the rest of \nthe world was in barbarism, Zurich w^as known as the City of \nSavans, and one who lives among them, but is not of them, say^s \nit deserves still this appellation. By the Romans it was called \nTuricum ; and it embraced Christianity in the seventh century. \nYet it is the most modern-looking city we have seen in Europe. \nIt has old narrow streets, and quaint old houses, where knights \nrevelled and troubadours sang ; * but they are compressed \nwithin a little space, and are not recognized in the general \n\n\n\n* At the end of the thirteenth century the house of L. Maness was the rendezvous of \nthe Troubadours, and the family had very long in their possession a collection of the \nsentimental poesies of these knight and nlght-errants, valuable for their intrinsic \nworth and rich imagery. It is now in the Bibliotheque of Paris. The poems were not \nadmitted till after rigid examination on the part of the noblesse of both sexes in this \nand other countries. One of the most famous of the Troubadours was Ilartmawti von \nder Aae, of the family of Chevaliers de Yesperspi\'el. Another was J. Iladlaub, a \nburger of Zurich, who loved a noble lady, who would not listen to his suit. The verses \nin which he sang his sorrow are still extant, and very delicate in sentiment and beauti- \nful in construction. The old house is still standing where they met. \n\n\n\nZURICH. 193 \n\nphysiognomy as we look down upon it from some height, or \nexamine it closely face to face. \n\nWe might easily imagine ourselves in the \'\'wooden city"* \nof \'New England. It has a similar position on both sides of a \nriver or bay ; and the houses, though not of wood, are white, \nwith green blinds, and after the same model, standing apart, sur- \nrounded by gardens and greenswards. But one is infinitely \namused in passing them to find they are called by name, or to \nbe dii\'ected to the house of some saint or philosopher, and read \nover the door, "Monk\'s Cap," or " Sheep\'s Head." To think \nof baptizing anything in modern days by the name of Sodom ! \nHowever appropriate it may have been before the days of science, \nthere can be no good reason now for living in a \'\'Kat\'s Nest," \nor a " Louse Brush ;" yet, if we were to judge by appearances, \nsome of the most useful of modern improvements are unknown in \nthe city, which has flourished two thousand years. But, though \nthe houses have lost all right to the cognomens, they are pro- \nbably allowed to remain as relics of that time-honoured past for \nwhich the respect is so universal that even the exposition of its \nfoibles only increases our veneration. So when we read the \nabove-mentioned names, or \'\' Garter," " Fool," and " Longface," \nover the doors, we have no idea of concluding these signs to be \ntrue indications of what is within ! \n\nZurich is not only the city of savans,\\ but " my lady bounti- \n\n* Providence, R. I. \n\nt To enumerate Zurich\'s wise men would be as useless as impossible. Their name is \nlegion, both in the past and present, Conrad Gessner was among the fii-st as physi- \ncian, botanist, geologist, and in all learning the Pliny of modern times. Solomon Gess- \nner is denominated the modern Theocritus, and no German poet of the last century has \nso many readers. The translation of his works was the introduction of German literature \ninto France. His essays were equally renowned, and he was also painter and engraver. \nFelix Faier wrote travels in Palestine, which Robinson, the great American Eastern \ntraveller, alludes to as remarkable for correctness. Sc7ieuc7tzer wrote travels among \n\n9 \n\n\n\n194 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nful " for all Switzerland. If there is an avalanche or land-slide \nin any canton or any village, a flood, or famine, or fire, the appeal \nis always made to Zurich, " Come over and help ns," and never in \nvain. It is almost a proverb, and heard everywhere, *\' Had it \nnot been for Zurich, we should have starved." In 1834 they \ntaxed themselves nearly five thousand dollars for the Greeks. \nIn the days of persecution she was the " city of refuge " for \nevery country ; and it is owing to the Huguenots, to whom they \nopened their dwellings, and to the Locarners, who fled to them \nfrom Italy, that they were so early a manufacturing people, and \nverified the words of the Preacher, " Cast your bread upon the \nwaters, and it shall return to you after many days." They re- \nceived at one time a whole troop from the French galleys, who \nhad been condemned for poMtical offences, and distributed them \nabout in families, till they could support themselves. English \ntheologians and Catholic priests, all, of every faith and nation, \nhave experienced their hospitality. In all the cities it was the \ncustom to have corn-houses, or granaries, where corn was depo- \nsited during years of plenty, and sold at a low price in years of \n\nthe Alps, and was called to the court of Peter the Great by recommendation of Leibnitz. \nSulzer, author of " Theory of the Fine Arts," was called to the chair of philosophy at \nBerlin by Frederick the Great. Bodmer was denominated the Plato of the modern \nAthens. \n\nIf was when meditating, "By the margin of Zurich\'s fair waters," that Zimmerman was \ninspired to write the delights of solitude, and Goethe penned the productions which \nacquired him most renown in the midst of the same scenes. The " good works " of the \ngreat Lavater live still in the memory of every inhabitant of Zurich, for it was not \nless by his deeds of love than by his words of wisdom that he deserved to be known. It \nwas also the noble heai-t of Pestalozzi which inspired the marvellous labours he accom- \nplished. The fame of these two is the most enviable which can be acquired by man, for \nit is owing to the good they did. \n\nThere are fifty more whose names are not less familiar in the circles of science and \nliterature, and those who are now the lights of her University will be recorded with equal \nhonour ; and here as in all other things we have to remember, that Zurich is only one \nsmall canton of a small republic. \n\n\n\nZURICH. 195 \n\nscarcity. The revelations of science, improvements in agricul- \nture, and introduction of many new kinds of food, have dimi- \nnished the dangers of famine, so that the granaries are no longer \nso important. But in 1636, there occurred a famine, from the \nfailure of the crops, and more than 20,000 dollars\' worth of grain \nwas given to the people in the country, besides what was sold at \na price within their means. \n\nThe universities, schools, and benevolent institutions of Zurich, \ncorrespond with the age, though now she does not give citizen- \nship to all who come, but sells it to all who can pay the price, \nwhich, to be sm-e, is not a large sum. \n\nHer savings-bank is the oldest in Switzerland, and the second \nin Europe. So early as 1558, we read of soup-houses, where \nher own poor, and those from many other lands, were fed gratis, \nand with far better food than the cloisters had been in the habit \nof furnishing. Immediately after the Reformation, the State \nundertook the care of the poor and sick, and Church-property was \nconfiscated to create a fund. \n\nIn the last half century more than fifty thousand patients \nhave been received into her hospital, nearly five thousand being \nfrom other cantons, and eight thousand from other lands. \n\nOne must be continually reminded, in reading of Switzerland, \nof its size, in order to appreciate its importance. When we \nthink that the twenty-two cantons together are not larger than \na third of the State of Xew York, we can conceive what one \ncanton must be. Yet the population is one-seventh of the whole \nUnited States of America. There are ninety-two cities of a \nthousand inhabitants, sixty-three communes or hamlets, and sefen \nthousand four hundred villages. There are more inhabitants, in \nproportion to ihe land, than in any other country, which must \nnot be forgotten when we read of their industry or their poverty. \n\n\n\n196 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nZurich is seventeen square leagues in extent, and has between \ntwo and three hundred thousand inhabitants. They are an agri- \ncultural and manufacturing people, and in both those depart- \nments aim at the highest possible perfection. Their silks rival \nthose of Lyons, and their fields those of England in beauty. \n\nIt is not less interesting in Zmlch than in Lucerne, to trace \nstep by step the social development and progress of the people. \n\nIn 1358, there were only two hundred and sixty-three servants \nin all the famihes of the city, because it was the custom for the \nwives and daughters to perform the domestic labour ; and there \nare several instances recorded of women being punished for \nscolding. In 1329, a burgomaster was fined two thousand, seven \nhundred and fifty dollars for insulting a woman. \n\nIn 1280, there was a great fire, and the clergy said it was a \njudgment upon the city for its extravagance, especially for the \nfolly of the women in dress and fnery ; and they began to make \nlaws to restrain this propensity ! The unmarried were allowed \nto dress more than the married. Neither men nor women were \npermitted to wear pointed shoes. Sometimes gold and precious \nstones were to be seen on the head, and even on the dress. This \nconsisted of a long underdress without sleeves, sometimes only a \nmantle thrown over, and sometimes a short dress reaching to \nthe knee, having sleeves, and the hair fell in curls on the neck. \nMen wore something like a monk\'s gown, making it always \nshorter and shorter, and red or blue stockings, or one side \nblue and the other red. These were the Zurich stockings, so \nfamous at the battle of Morgarten. \n\nThe inventory of articles in an inn for travellers in 1380, enu- \nmerates four table-cloths for a long table, and four for a round \none, sixteen pillows, eight baskets, one for bread and one for \nkeys, a chest for trumpery^ forty dishes and plates, one cauldron, \n\n\n\nZURICH. 197 \n\none great wash-tub, one reel, one foot-stool to stand before a \nbed, and six flat irons, etc. \n\nWhen burghers resorted to an inn, to talk and drink in the \nevening, the bells of the city rang at the proper houi* for them \nto return home, and no one was allowed to walk in the streets \nafterwards without a light. \n\nIt w^as forbidden to invite more than twenty persons to a \nwedding, and the god-parents must not make presents worth \nmore thdu seventy-five cents. Only two singers and two fiddlers \ncould be present. A bride at her first marriage could receive a \nmorning gift ; -widows, of course, received none. \n\nIn the sixteenth century, the people were commanded to make \na pilgrimage to Einsiedeln, the first Sunday after Pfingsten, con- \nsisting of twenty-four priests, and one grown person from each \nhouse, and at the next State-Council a report was made of dis- \nobedience and misdemeanors. Priests were reproved for talking \nand laughing so loud during confession that the voices of those \nconfessing could not be heard ! \n\nIn 1480, a feast was given at the choice of a new burgomaster, \nat which two thousand persons were present. The inventory of \narticles in a rich burgher\'s house enumerates eighty linen sheets^ \nsixty table-cloths, and seventy-nine pieces of silver. \n\nIn this century men and women wore grey mantles, but no \nwoman was allowed to wear a girdle that cost more than five \ndollars, and not then unless her husband was worth four hundred \ndollars ! \n\nIn the course of the fifteenth century three hundred and \neighty-eight persons were condemned to death, twenty-one being \nwomen ; one hundred and eighty-two were led with blinded eyes \nto the gallows and hung ; one hundred and ten died by the \nsword ; twenty-one were broken on the wheel ; and thirty-seven \n\n\n\n198 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ndrowned. Mention is often made of cutting off ears and noses ; \nand two were buried alive. This is after the Gospel had been \npreached five hundred years in their midst, and its words are said \nto be "sharper than any two-edged sword." \n\nThose punishments were the remnants of heathenism, and some \nof them, or laws as disgraceful, exist still in every Christian land. \nHow slow is the progress of truth and righteousness, notwith- \nstanding their power. \n\nZwinglius said of Zurich he hoped his field of labour would \nnever be in such a wicked place ; yet he afterwards came and ac- \ncomplished much good. He was the reformer in whom the peo- \nple had most confidence, as he not only preached against the op- \npression of the Church, but of the Government. In the war of \nthe peasants, Luther was with the princes, merely because his \nlife had not made him acquainted with the wrongs and oppres- \nsions of the poor. But Zwinglius had never lived in a monastery, \nand knew nothing of dreams and theories. He was opposed to \nall wrong, and advocated freedom in its broadest sense. Yet he \nwas superstitious, and believed the appearance of a comet fore- \nboded evil, and saw no sin in trying and burning witches. \n\nIn this century the ladies are said to have become more \ndomestic ; those of the highest rank worked in the kitchen, spun, \nand sewed, and wove their household linen. It was the custom \nto make great preparation for the new-born child ; all the silver \nof the house was present. The cradle furniture was of the finest \nembroidery, and the oldest daughter, though not more than ten \nyears of age, stood by as its femvie de chamhre. Yery costly \npresents were made, and sixteen god-parents were present at its \nbaptism. \n\nIn 1688, Bishop Burnet travelled in Switzerland, and wi\'ote \nof Zurich : " Here we find the simplicity of the old times, and \n\n\n\nZURICH. 199 \n\nladies devoted to their households instead of intrigues and dress." \nHaving studied diligently, we have not been able to learn when \nthe old times ended and the new times commenced. \n\nIn 1550, a young lady received for her marriage dower a \ndouble bed with curtains, and two foot-stools to climb up to it ; \nsix table-cloths, six hand-towels, and twelve dish-towels, twenty- \nfour chemises, and twelve caps, thirty-four doyleys, five orna- \nmented dresses, fourteen other articles of dress, bracelets of \nthirteen rows of agate, garnet, and cornelian ; silver girdles for \nkeys, and a psalm-book with silver clasps. This trousseau cost \nabout three hundred dollars and she received four hundred dol- \nlars in money. \n\nIn 1663, ladies are forbidden to wear girdles worth more than \nthree guineas English ; and gentlemen must not sport wigs \nweighing several pounds, costing perhaps $75 or a $100. In \nthe beginning of this century, Sunday began to be observed in \nthe modern way. No one was allowed to labour except shoe- \nmakers and tailors, who were permitted to finish a piece of work \nalready commenced, if they could get it done before the sermon. \n\nIt was at this period that powder began to be worn upon the \nhair, and that gentlemen first tried the influence of presents in \nwooing. "Women of bad reputation were obliged to wear red \ncaps in the street and in church. \n\nIn 1614, the law prescribed the limits of a wedding dinner. \n\nFIRST COURSE. \n\nA pastry. Smoked sausage. \n\nTwo dishes of warm soup. Smoked beef. \n\nTwo dishes of cold soup. Two dishes of rice. \n\nOne boiled fowl. Two dishes of beets and other \n\nOne piece of smoked meat. vegetables. \n\nHalf a calf s head and pluck. \n\n\n\n200 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nSECOND COURSE. \n\nTwo joints of roast veal. Half of a roast hare. \n\nOne pair of fowls. Two dishes of pears. \n\nOne pair of doves. Two dishes of plums. \nRoast sausage. \n\nEVENING. \n\nOne dish of wafers and wine. \n\nIf any one wished to give a larger entertainment than this, he \nmust ask permission of government. \n\nDuring the last half of this century, tea and chocolate became \ncommon, and people smoked mastic and little tapers of juniper- \nwood and berries. \n\nDuring the seventeenth century, three hundred and thu\'ty-six \npersons were condemned to death ; ninety-eight of whom were \nwomen, and no amelioration occurred in the modes of punish- \nment. \n\nIn the beginning of the eighteenth century, coffee became as \ncommon as wine, and snuff was used, but was forbidden in church \n" as a hindrance to heart culture !" \n\nPeople began, at this time, to invite company on certain days, \nand the ladies used to sit on benches before the doors to gossip. \nThe burghers met according to their guilds in front of the \nchurches, each guild having its exact line, so that no one tres- \npassed upon the stone that belonged to another. \n\nClergymen commenced kneeling on entering the pulpit, and \npraying softly to themselves. Families lived together in one \ngreat room, where the father studied, the wife spun, and the \nmaids shelled peas. \n\nIn lt39, a Frenchman wrote of the Zurich people : "The \nmen talk as loud at table as when they are scolding their wives, \n\n\n\nZURICH. 201 \n\nand take such long steps that one would think a postilion were \nstriding through the room. The women are the best creatures in \nthe world, but cannot hold a conversation." \n\nIn the beginning of this century parasols began to be used. \n\nIt is the custom in Zurich, when a child is born, for a young \ngirl to take an enormous bouquet, ornamented with long rib- \nbons, and go from house to house to announce to the relatives \nand friends the happy event. It originated in the eighteenth \ncentury. Baptism took place immediately after birth. If there \nwere several to be baptized, the boys received the rite first, lest \nthey should have no beard when men. Those who carried the \nchildren ran through the street, in order to make them active.* \n\nCountry people began to come to the city to be married, and \noften in procession, with viohns and trumpets. The bride and \nbridegroom kneeled during the ceremony. If the bride could \nnot in honour wear the wreath, she could not receive the bless- \ning on the wedding-day, but waited till Saturday evening. \nGolden weddings were celebrated in church by remarriage, and \nwith gifts and great rejoicings at home. \n\nAt funerals, the house was entirely draped in black, within \nand without. The friends were informed by a special messenger, \nand assembled at two o\'clock in the afternoon ; the men receiv- \ning expressions of condolence at the door, and the women form- \ning a circle in one large room. The service and procession were \nin the ordinary manner. \n\nIn 1*153, ladies first began to attend public concerts ; but in \nthe middle ages the Zurichers were famous for their music. \nPhrenologists say, their heads exhibit a remarkable develop- \nment, indicating their taste and talent for this branch of the fine \narts ; but the discovery would not indicate any special discern- \n\n* This custom precisely as in tlie northnm part of Germany. \n9* \n\n\n\n202 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nment in a phrenologist, by which we do not intend to implicate \ntheir discernment in general. \n\nThe taste and skill in the mechanic arts is not less decided, \nand the hum of industry is heard literally in all her borders. \nThe manufactures are not crowded into one corner of a great \ncity, but occupy the leisure hours of those who live in the coun- \ntry. Especially is this the case in the weaving of silk. All \nthose beautiful fabrics, which now equal those of any part of \nthe world, are produced in the cottages scattered over hill and \ndale, and by those who perhaps work in the field in summer and \nweave silk in the winter, or devote only the leisure hours of \nevery season to this light and tasteful labour. \n\nLord Canning once said, " he beheved everything but figures;^ \nand surely it is diflicult to beheve the figures which state the \namount of wealth this little canton produces in this desultory \nway. Five millions of dollars\' worth of silk alone go to North \nAmerica ; and at least five millions more to other countries ; \nand nearly twenty thousand individuals are employed on them. \nThe looms belong to the families who use them, and they exer- \ncise their own judgment and pleasure concerning the time to \ndevote to one labour or another. \n\nWe need not apologize for introducing our readers to one of \nthese cottages, that they may see the companions of the loom, \nin which is a web that may one day flourish in an English palace \nor American saloon, or whirl in the dizzy dance at Ne^^\'port or \nSaratoga. It is of the beautiful kind called gros de Najples, \nwhich you need not imagine to have been made in Italy because \nit has an Italian name, or that it is less beautiful because it is \nwoven on Swiss soil. \n\nFirst, you must see the weavers, who wear a white linen cap, \nornamented with glass beads on both sides, and tied under the \n\n\n\nZURICH. 203 \n\nchin with a velvet ribbon. -A short blue jacket, with light blue \nbodice, on which appears the letter Y, wrought, or formed with \ncoloured velvet ribbon. What the letter signifies we do not know, \nand they do not know themselves. \n\nThe house is of two stories, built first of timbers, and then a \nwall of coarse bricks or stones, covered with plaster. On the \nfirst floor are a sitting-room, two small rooms, and a kitchen \nThese are finished with panels, painted light green, looking \nbeautifully neat. The most conspicuous object is the great stove \nof potters\' work, veneered and painted, and wrought into three \nwalls, so as to spread its genial influence in every apartment \nbelow and above. These stoves are everywhere at the north, \nand very comfortable when thoroughly heated night and day, \nbut require much wood, and in the mild weather of spring or \nautumn not very economical, unless permitted to remain cold, \nwhich is often the case ! \n\nUnder the windows are long wooden benches, and before \nthese the table, set around with wooden chairs. The unfailing \nfhcst, with its various compartments, is near, and on it a tin \n[)Liil and copper wash-basin ; a book-shelf is suspended over, and \non a nail at its side a towel and a brushV/On a little table in \nthe corner is the folio family Bible, and upon two nails over the \ndoor rests the family gun, pohshed to brightness. The next \narticle is a curious rehc of the olden times, and here we are able \nto state exactly what marked the times as old. When they use \n[his term, they mean the age of oatmeal pudding made so thick \nthat the spoon would stand upright in the centre. These are \nthe days their grandmothers still remember, and the great \nwooden spoon hangs by a string to the wall, as does also the \nbread-knife, with the initials of the heads of the household there- \non, and the date of their marriage. It is a curious article on \n\n\n\n204 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nwhich to preserve the record of so important an event ; but \nbeing the one they would oftenest have to use, it is not on the \nwhole so inappropriate. A slate, an almanac, a looking-glass, \nand a pair of scales, occupy their wonted posts, and in accord- \nance with their humble offices, the cat\'s dish, the cricket, the \ncradle, and standing-stool. Under the stove are the unoccupied \nshoes and playthings, and in the most honourable positions pic- \ntures from the Bible, Swiss history, and the never-to-be-forgotten \nBlack Forest clock. \n\nKear the window is the loom I Does it seem marvellous \nhow one of those beautiful and delicate tissues of green, or \ngold, or purple, can come forth from the midst of such a medley \nwithout spot or blemish ? We can only answer, that we wonder \nall the same, though everything is remarkably neat. The loom \nis like any other, except that it is more light and delicate in its \nconstruction. The reed, through which the warp is drawn, is \nfine as gossamer, and the shuttle for the filling might answer for \na fau\'y. The web goes underneath, and winds on a beam like \nany other web, of tow or of more plebeian pretensions. The \nthreads break, and fingers which are not at all fairylike tie \nthem together with marvellous celerity, and we watch the checks \nand stripes or figures form with never-ceasing interest and \namazement. \n\nIn the second story are the large double-canopied beds for \nchildren and servants, and in the same room and adjoining apart- \nments are linen and clothing chests, boxes for dried fruit and old \ntrumpery, barrels, full of meal, clover seed, and salt, swallows\' \nnests, and dried sausage, ham, bacon and bundles of yarn in all \ntheir luxuriance, and, one would think, detrimental proximity I \n\nIn the deep cellar are stored the beer, and apples, and cider, \nsauerkraut, potatoes, and other vegetables. \n\n\n\nZURICH. 205 \n\nThese are the homes, and the happy homes, of free and in- \ndustrious people, who may be said to lack nothing that is abso- \nlutely necessary to comfort and happiness. There is none of the \nabject poverty which is seen in exclusively manufacturing dis- \ntricts, and none of the luxury attendant upon suddenly acquired \nand immense fortunes. \n\nThe manufacture of cotton in Switzerland is more extensive \nthan that of silk, and occupies at least fifty thousand people. \nThe whole number of spindles is six hundred and sixty-six thou- \nsand, and the half of these are turned in Zurich. There are also \nsix thousand employed in bleaching, dyeing, and printing cloths ; \nand of those, Zurich has also the greatest number. There are \nfive hundred tanneries in Switzerland, with three thousand \nlabourers, confined mostly to three cantons, of which Zurich is \none. The manufacture of woollen is confined principally to four \ncantons, of which Zurich is one. These are the most important \nbranches of industry, and yet agriculture has attained here the \nhighest perfection. Of the fifty thousand people who weave \nsilk or spin cotton, make paper or braid straw, a great propor- \ntion devote part of their time to some department of labour in \nfield or garden. \n\nThere are in the canton no Alps, yet they possess fifty thou- \nsand head of cattle ; besides horses, sheep, goats ; pigs also \nnumber by thousands. Their vines, like those in Germany, \nwere first planted by Charlemagne ; and of the four hundred \nand eighty thousand acres of land belonging to the canton, one \nhundred and twenty thousand are devoted to pasturage and \ncereals, fifteen thousand to vines, and one hundred and sixty \nthousand to various culture. \n\nThe farms are very small, but the soil is made to produce to \nthe utmost of its capacity. We are very sorry to be obliged to \n\n\n\n206 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\noffend our fastidious readers with the revolting details of agricul- \nture, and especially to introduce them again to a Tnanure-heap, \nbut as this is the agriculturist\'s wealth, and as in Switzerland \nthey seem to have learned the art of converting it particle by par- \nticle into gold ,we cannot pass it by. We write for those whose \nduty it is to learn and practise in the same way, and those whom we \nhave usually found as refined as some who profess to be shocked \nat being told that fruits and flowers do not grow spontaneously, \nor that science aids in anything so vulgar as enriching the soil. \n\nThis same " manure-heap" was the first thing that attracted \nour attention on passing a farmhouse, because it was made with \nso much care and so peculiarly, and because it occupied the most \npleasant position near the house in the shade of some elms. \nWe afterwards learned that the shade it must necessarily have, \nfrom the principle on which it is constructed ; and if it were \nnear the stable, it must, of course, be near the house, as they \nare in close contiguity. It is appointed to receive all the waste \njuices of the house as well as barn. \n\nIf there are no trees in the right place, and of the right size, \nthey plant them ; not to beautify, but to shield this most im- \nportant portion of their treasures. \n\nA pit is made some two or three feet deep, walled tight with \nstones or boards. Beams are placed across, covered with \nbranches of trees, so that when the manure is placed thereon, \nthe fluids drain through and leave the solids dry above. \n\nThe stable where the cattle stand has a floor of plates of \nstone or boards, with gravel earth in front, that they may lie \ndown and get up without slipping. Between them and the wall \nis a drain from ten to fifteen inches wide, which connects with \nthe reservoir, without. There are also two or three ditches of \nhewn stone, or boards, into which the manure is first thrown \n\n\n\nZUKICH. 207 \n\nfrom the stables in order to be moistened with water, and then \nplaced upon the heap; or if thrown du\'ectly upon it, it is often wet- \nted, in order to cause fermentation and decay, and to enrich the \nfluid beneath, which is made accessible through an opening at \none corner, and dipped out with a long-handled pail. One sees \neverywhere women and children watering gardens and fields of \nvegetables with this liquid. \n\nThe stables are carpeted with clean straw before each milk- \ning, and sometimes four or five times daily ; and with this, and \noften new straw taken for the purpose, they make each layer \nseparate, and twist the straw so neatly around the edges that it \nlooks as if it were braided, and is thus preserved from falling \ndown and wasting. \n\nThe sink-drains from the house connect with this reservoir, \nand farmers often build them near cities, to gather the treasures \nwhich are to them invaluable, and would otherwise do no man \nany good. \n\nCompost heaps are also made of weeds and all refuse which is \nnot food for cattle. Leaves of trees are collected in another \nplace and used for a peculiar soil. Gypsum and marl are also \nused, as well as ashes, turf ashes being considered better than \nwood. \n\nThis is the secret of their agriculture, and explains how so \nmany people can live upon so small a spa.ce. Red clover often \nfurnishes four and six mowings a year, and other grasses are \nfruitful in proportion. \n\nWe have sometimes seen an aqueduct and reservoir in front \nof a stable, with an engine for spouting pure water over the cows \nand their stalls, to keep them clean. \n\nHunting is free to all, with a few slight restrictions for the \nprotection of fields and gardens ; and the forests are open to \n\n\n\n208 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\njoiners, carpenters, and basket-makers for all the wood they \nneed in their several callings, and the wild berries and hroom stuff \nmay be gathered by all who eat and sweep. \n\nThere are one or two other articles of commerce in Switzer- \nland which we are sure no Englishman or American ever \nthought of " trading in ;\'\' and yet which might be made profita- \nble perhaps, for the marshes bring forth as abundantly there as \nhere. Catholics not being allowed to eat meat on Fridays, and \nvarious other days in the year, and Catholics being many in the \nland, all manner of fish are in great demand. Frogs and snails \nbelong to the genus fish, and are collected in great numbers for \ncloisters, monks being among those who preach, but do not prac- \ntise, fasting. It is not necessary to enjoin the peasants to deny \nthemselves meat, as they seldom eat it except on Sundays. \nSnails are fattened in gardens on certain kinds of leaves, and one \nmay hear the chattering of their teeth as they eat, in passing \nby. From Zurich they are exported to Italy in the autumn. It \nis only frogs\' legs that are eaten, and formerly they used to \ncatch them and cut off their legs, leaving the animal to die a* \npainful and cruel death.* In a period of four years, the cloister \nRheinau disposed of forty thousand snails, and thirty-six thou- \nsand pairs of frogs\' legs. \n\nZurich was among the first to subject the Church and her \npriesthood to the law, allowing them no preference above other \ncitizens. In 1319, it is recorded that they permitted a priest to \ngo for half a week to Baden for his health, but if he remained \nany longer, his salary would cease ; and they were often deposed \nfor immorality and punished for crime. \n\nThe sacrament was administered for the first time after the \nmethod of the reformed churches, April 13, 1525. Formerly, \n\n\xe2\x99\xa6 This is now prohibited. \n\n\n\nZUEICH. 209 \n\nall the bells iu the city rang for church service, but now only \nthose of the church where the people assemble. The ceremonies \nare nearly the same as in America, except that there is only one \nsession. The Sunday-school is in the afternoon. \n\nFairs and festivals are not so many in Zurich as in Lucerne, \nand not so many in the Protestant cantons generally as in the \nCathohc. Fires are kindled on all the surrounding heights in \nthe spring, but now they call it burning the last vestige of \nwinter, and it is a sport only for boys. They gather stealthily \nthe materials, and allow no sign of their preparations to be visi- \nble, till at a given signal all blaze forth at once, and their songs \nthrough \'\' all the welkin ring.^\' In the evening there are a few \nholding sports around the fireside, merely to make glad the \nhearts of the little ones. \n\nThere is a meeting every year of the old men who are of the \nsame age, to enjoy a dinner and a talk of the olden time. They \nfirst met in 1824, on the 8th of October. When there are not \nenough born in the same year for a respectable tableful, they \ninclude those of two years. They do not confine themselves to \nthe simple cookery of the Bremen burghers, but allow the wine \nto flow merrily, and " their hearts do beat cheerily," yet it is no \nday of revel, only of gladness. \n\nOn the day of ascension, the young people from the country \nascend Mount Uetliberg, near Zurich, where those from the city \njoin them, and sing psalms and hymns of praise to the Giver of \nall blessings. It is one of the prettiest of the festal days. \nThe processions, like all peasant processions, are gay with flowers \nand bright ribbons, but their mirth is on this occasion chastened, \nwithout destroying then* gaiety. \n\nShooting companies are universal in Switzerland, and every \ntwo years they hold a great festival in one of the principal \n\n\n\n210 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ncities. It is now a federal fete, and one which enUsts the sym- \npathies and co-operation of the whole people. The first was \nheld at Aarau in 1824, where a society was formed ; and though \nthey were at first very simple they have now attained to an al- \nmost fabulous splendour. This year it took place in Zurich, the \nfirst ten days in July. A volume would be necessary to describe \nit in detail, and then one would have little idea of the effect of \nthe whole, enlivened by the enthusiasm of these liberty loving- \npeople, thronging from their mountains and their valleys in the \ntrue spirit of brotherhood, to celebrate their oldest and best \nbeloved national /e^e. \n\nTo Zurich belonged the preparations for the reception of the \nguests, and she lavished her money and her taste with her usual \nspirit, of allowing nothing to fail of beauty or comfort in all the \narrangements. \n\nThe expediency of holding the festival when all Europe was \ntrembhng with \'\' wars and rumours of war," was for a long \ntime doubted, and when at length it was decided that there \ncould be no serious reason for deferring it, the lateness of the \nhour obliged them to hasten the work. \n\nThree sides of a parallelogram were devoted to the necessary \nbuildings, and displayed the light graceful architecture of the \nSwiss cottage, familiar to all by pictures and miniatures in sugar \nor wood. It included a dining-room which could accommodate \nseveral thousand persons, a spacious saloon, telegraph and post- \noffice bureaux, kitchen, storeroom, and various lesser apart- \nments. The background was devoted to the targets, which \nwere a hundred in number, raised six or eight feet from the \nground, and behind each an immense block of hewn granite to \nreceive the bullets, and prevent all possibility of accidents. \n\nIn the dining-room was a fountain with four jets, sparkling in \n\n\n\nZUKICH. 211 \n\nthe midst of shrubbery aud flowers, and the whole was Kghted \nby hundreds of hurimrs, making a very fairyland in beauty and \nbrilliancy. \n\nFinding that they were in danger of not being ready at the \nappointed time, the Austrian soldiers who had trespassed on the \nneutral soil of the Repubhc were invited to become helpers in \nerecting the temple of freedom, to which they did not seem at \nall averse, and performed diligently whatever their hands could \nfind to do I \n\nIn the centre of the parallelogram arose a Gothic temple, \nwith twenty-three towers, the centre surmounted by the flag of \nthe Confederacy, and those of the twenty-two cantons waving \naround. There was no interior to the building, but on its outer \nwalls were suspended the jprizes for those who should win in this \nrivalry of sharp-shooters. The prizes were numbered, and each \ncompetitor had the privilege of selecting the one which he would \ntry to win, in the division to which he belonged. The targets \nwere of different kinds, some requiring more skill than others. \n\nThe united value of the prizes was more than fifty thousand \ndollars, and presented a curious spectacle in their individual \ncharacter, disposed, according to their worth and nature, on \nlittle nailSy so thickly as to form a covering like tapestry for the \nwalls. The most of them were purses of different size and \nworkmanship, containing gold of every possible amount. But \nas the Swiss in all countries contribute to this feature of the \nfestival, there are some things characteristic of the lands in \nwhich they now dwell. Such is a Mexican saddle, of beautiful \nfinish ; purses of fifty, eighty, and a hundred dollars, from \nNew York and Philadelphia ; one of four hundred dollars from \nMemphis, Tennessee ; a similar one from Valparaiso and Con- \nstantinople. There are also silver cups and pitchers, china tea \n\n\n\n212 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nand coffee sets, watches, and rifles, all tastefully displayed and \ndecorated. Each one pays a certain sum for the privilege of \nshooting, graduated according to the prize he strives to win. \nDuring the time of the festival there were between six and seven \nhundred thousand shots, and sometimes ninety in a moment.* It \nwas like being within the sound of a battle, but the sight was \none to be remembered with joy, and not with sorrow. \n\nThe concourse of people was a multitude which no man \ncould number. Every day came a new deputation, which was \nreceived at the railroad station by a committee from Zurich, \nwho escorted them to the city with music and colours, showing \nthem the town, and introducing them to the festal palace, to \nreach which all must pass through the triumphal arch, which \nwas erected at one of the portals of the city, not far from the \nfestal scene, which was without the gates. This beautiful speci- \nmen of art was designed and finished entirely by tlie inhabitants \nof the neighbouring commune of Riesbach, and consisted of \nthree arches, the centre being sufficiently large for carriages, and \nsurmounted by a colossal statue of Tell, with his bow in one \nhand, and in the other the arrow which remained after he had \ncleft the apple from the head of his son. He is in the act of \nshowing it to the tyrant, as he exclaims, " ISTow, if you would \nindeed know the truth, had I killed my child, your heart this \nsecond arrow had not failed," and beneath appeared the three \nmen of Grutli, in the attitude of taking the oath. The whole \nwas wreathed with evergreens and flowers, and was of singular \nbeauty and effect. After the fete it was purchased and trans- \nferred to the garden of a wealthy citizen of Zurich. \n\nEspecially attractive was the deputation from the four forest \n\n* For the numbers in the two higlicst of the three divisions each person could shoot \nonly once. \n\n\n\nZUEICH. 213 \n\ncantons, accompanied by the martial music of Lucerne, the four \ncantonal banners, William Tell and his boy, and three men bear- \ning the notable horns, in the costume of the twelfth century. \nThey were many hundreds in number, and were greeted by \ncannon, by cheers, by music, and every possible demonstration \nof joy from the countless throng through which they passed ; \nand Tery affecting was their surprise and pleasure as they halted \nbefore the triumphal arch, and with more slow and measured \nstep proceeded to the Schutzenplatz. Here deafening cheers \nawaited them, and a speech from the temporary throne, which \nproduced a solemn stillness ; and many a strong man might have \nbeen seen wiping the eye from which it had caused " the silent \ntear to flow." \n\nThe star-spangled banner waved proudly from a conspicuous \nheight, and th^ 4th of July happening on one day of the fete, \nwas duly celebrated by the American Consul and some fifty \nAmericans, who were granted the privilege of the festal hall \nfor the occasion. Some grey-haired clergymen thought it no sin \nto di-ink wine on such a day ; and their toasts were none the \nworse for the exhilaration of the sparkhng beverage. The Swiss, \nnot less than the Americans, seemed to enjoy the moment that \nenabled the two Republics to celebrate their national fete under \nthe united banners of each. \n\nThe field for the exhibition of the skill of the wrestlers was \nopposite the Schutzenjplatz, in the grounds of a private citizen, \nwho offered them freely for the occasion. They entered the \ncity in one phalanx, though coming from every valley in Swit- \nzerland, and bore aloft nearly fifty banners with original devices. \nThey occupied the two last days of the/e^e, and attracted a mul- \ntitude which increased by hundreds and thousands as they \nmarched ; the long trains of railway-cars were crowded ; every \n\n\n\n214 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ndiligence was laden with a gala-dressed group ; and from every \npathway, over mountain and through valley, came the rustic \nvehicles like moving parterres, with happy villagers, their ban- \nners and streamers fluttering in the breeze, till the city was one \ndense mass of human beings in grand jubilee, yet nowhere exhi- \nbiting coarse revelry or unseemly mirth. \n\nThe feats of the wrestlers we have elsewhere described ; and \nhere they lasted from six in the morning till four in the after- \nnoon. This was the first time they had shared the prizes with \nthe shooting parties, and the value of these was doubly enhanced \nby the manner of offering them. Young \'girls, in white robes \nand red scarfs, stood upon a platform beneath a tent of blue \nand white, and each victor was called by name, and crowned \nwith oak and laurel wreaths by those fair hands, besides receiv- \ning appropriate prizes. One of these prizes appeared in the \nform of four white sheep, also wearing wreaths and ornamented \nwith ribbons. \n\nOn Sunday there was no shooting or wrestling, but all gath- \nered together in the open air, a united Church as well as united \npeople, to listen to the solemn services of the Sabbath, and a \nsermon which evinced the spirit and power of the divines of the \nReformation. \n\nOn one day the Duchess of Parma and her four children \nwere conspicuous guests in the amphitheatre among the specta- \ntors, and at the table in the hall. For the third time an exile \nshe fled for refuge to a free people ; and soon after came the \nplenipotentiaries to the same city, to settle by the wiles of diplo- \nmacy what war could not effect. Strange that princes will not \nlearn to make their own people free, that they may rule over \nthem in peace. The Italian diplomatists evinced great interest \nin the institutions of the Republic ; visited the schools, and in- \n\n\n\nZURICH. . 215 \n\nquired diligently concerning all that could furnish them know- \nledge of the practical workings of freedom ; but. the Austrian \nwalked about in dogged silence and contempt, determined to be- \nlieve in nothing but grinding oppression, and to attach impor- \ntance to nothing but the etiquette, barbarity, and ignorance of \nthe middle ages. \n\nWe have no room for the speeches which were the daily events \nof the fete. They all had for their motto, " Union is strength !" \nand were very much like those which are heard every 4th of July \nin America, full of national pride, some vain boasting, and glow- \ning with the enthusiasm which can only be exhibited by a free \npeople. \n\nThe last day was the anniversary of the entrance of Basle into \nthe Confederacy three hundred and fifty-eight years before ; and \nthey remamed the last to lower their colours and say farewell. \nEight peals from the booming cannons announced the fall of the \ncurtain upon the festal scene ; and all returned to tell the won- \nders they had seen to those who had remained in the huts of the \nmountains and in the cots of the valleys. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XIY. \n\n\n\nSCHAFFHAUSEN. \n\n\n\nOLD CITY \xe2\x80\x94 PRIDE AND EXCLUSITENESS \xe2\x80\x94 JEWS \xe2\x80\x94 COSTUME \xe2\x80\x94 KHINEEALL- \xe2\x80\x94 DIS- \nTINGUISHED MEN. \n\n\n\nScHAFFHAUSEN IS the onlj canton where the people secured their \nfreedom of church and state without dissensions and divisions \nbetween the city and country, the aristocracy and peasantry. \nThey pride themselves on being a quiet and orderly people, and \nthere is more of the sober and antique in their physiognomy \nthan in any other city. They have not experienced so often or \nso lately the calamity of fire, and the old roofs look as if they \nmight have passed through the flood. The coats-of-arms of many \ncenturies are still to be seen on their fronts, and carvings and \npaintings, of which no man knows the signification, still adorn \nhalf the buildings. \n\nWe think there must be funny old customs in such an old \nplace, but the people are more modern than the walls within \nwhich they dwell. They profess to be more hospitable than any \nof their confederates ; but they have the same pride of birth, \nand the same boast of \'\' old families," though now their aristo- \ncracy is more of wealth than of pedigree. There are those \n\n216 \n\n\n\nSCHAFFHAUSEN. 217 \n\namong them who count ten centuries of illustrious ancestors, and \nsome who can prove their blood to be coloured by a few drops \nof some distant cousin of the House of Hapsburg, which surely \nought to make it very red, and yet are more proud of the coin \nin their coffers, and strive day and night for the gold that \nperisheth. \n\nOne is as lawful as the other when made a reason for exclu- \nsiveness and oppression, and the sole reason that Switzerland \ndid not earlier settle into harmony and steadily increasing pros- \nperity with her free spirit and enterprising people, was, that the \nGovernment was based on privileges, and a class of people in \nalmost every city assumed to themselves the right of enjoying \nsomething which the others could not obtain. Not till 1848 \ndid they succeed in getting rid of these haughty aristocrats, and \nthe people of true republican spirit became so much in the \nmajority, that they could say to all, of every class, " You are \nindeed free." Those who composed these supercilious oligarchies, \nbeing deprived of their political power, endeavour to show their \nresentment and superiority by shutting themselves within a nar- \nrow circle, and boasting of what they were, determined not to \nbelieve, or at least not to acknowledge, that new men can equal \nthem, or a Government which they did not form can exist and \nprosper. They would not acknowledge a king or a foreign \nbailiff, but they arrogated to themselves a power not less tyran- \nnical, and used it in a manner not less opposed to every prin- \nciple of equality and justice. \n\nIt was the restlessness of the people in those bonds that kept \nthem forever in turbulence and rebellion ; and though the devasta- \ntion of Napoleon\'s armies was a curse, and their invasion unjustifi- \nable, his mediation was a blessing. He saw that he could not \nrule them, and he undertook to teach them to rule themselves. \n\n10 \n\n\n\n218 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThey had demolished feudalism in form, but the spmt stiU Hved. \nWhatever may have been his motive, his mission was the same \nin Switzerland as in Germany \xe2\x80\x94 to crush this hydra-headed \nmonster. \n\nDuring the period of his ten years\' mediation, there was peace \nand prosperity ; he was dethroned, and all was again in con- \nfusion. But had he remained on the throne, it is not probable \nthe people of Switzerland would have been long content to \nacknowledge his sceptre. A foreign ruler by any name was \nalways their special aversion. "We are a free people, and a \nfree people we will be," is the inborn spirit of the Swiss. But \nthey learned of hun a lesson, and vrhat is more wonderful, they \nprofited by it. There was no more rest till the native, as well \nas the foreign, oppressors were dethroned. The power has been \nentirely taken from their hands, but not till time has laid some \nof them still lower will Switzerland be entirely dehvered from \ntheir corrupt and demoralizmg influence m her institutions. \nTheir hatred of the genuine freedom of the present Government \nis gall, wormwood, and bitterness. In one city we heard a \nfamily belonging to this aristocracy say they would not attend a \nparty where a member of the Government was to be present ; \nand the caste of the Hindoo is not more prescribed than the line \nthey have drawn between themselves and those whom they \ndenominate jplebeians. Whether they attend the same church \nI do not know ; but they are here, as elsewhere, the people \nwho make the greatest pretensions to piety, and profess to be \nthe disciples of Christ whilst ignoring every principle which He \npreached and practised. \n\nThere is less of this spirit in Schafihausen than in some other \ncities, and it thrives most in Berne, Soleure, and Geneva. \n\nYet the laws concerning the Jews are of the most oppressive \n\n\n\nSCHAFFH AUSEN. 219 \n\nand nnchristian nature in Schaffhausen, while in Berne and \nGeneva they are free in every respect as other citizens Here \nthey are forbidden by the law to trade, to own real estate or \ncattle, and are not allowed equal privileges with other citizens \nin the courts of justice. They can reside in the canton only \neight days, which is a permission evidently for their own interest, \nas Jews are permitted to trade in cattle at the public market, \nand in the stables of those who sell ; any infringement of this \nprovision is punished by fine. \n\nThey do not even recognise a bargain between a Jew and \nChristian as binding, unless it is made in the presence of the \nPresident of the Commune or the blood relatives of the Chris- \ntian. If a Jew lend money to a Christian, the law does not \noblige it to be repaid ; he must do it at his own risk. A Jew \ncannot take a greater interest than five per cent. ; and in no \ninstance is allowed compound interest for whatever sum he may \nlend. \n\nLetters of exchange, promissory notes, and other business \ntransactions, are subject to the same restrictions ; and if a Jew \nshould inherit real estate, he is obliged to sell it within a \nyear. \n\nThese are strange laws to remain on the statute-book of a free \nand Christian land, yet in six other cantons they are the same.* \nThere is no anomaly so incomprehensible as that of a free people \nimposing slavery \xe2\x80\x94 of those who would die for a right or a privi- \n\n* We are indebted for these facts to an able document presented to the Swiss Federal \nCouncil by the Honomable Theodore S. Fay, resident minister of the United States at \nBerne, and now published in several languages. A remoustrance was made by Jews, \nwho had become citizens of America, on account of the expense and trouble to which \nthey were subjected when business obliged them to visit Switzerland, and it became the \nduty of the minister to secure to them the protection every American bad a right to \ndemand. \n\n\n\n220 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nlege, denying it to others who are equally entitled to the utmost \nliberty. \n\nWe are sorry to be obliged to expose the existence of so dark \na stain upon this fair land, and hope that it will soon be blotted \nout. In all else it is a \'^ goodly land and a pleasant," and the \npeople who dwell therein right friendly to the stranger and the \npilgrim who may happen to be within their borders. \n\nAgriculture is the occupation of the great proportion, and has \nadopted all modern improvements. In l^tl, there was a great \nfamine in Switzerland, which was followed by a new impulse to \nagriculture. Men of science and influence devoted themselves to \nthe study of soils, and the adaptation of different kinds of grains \nand fruits to their climate and tillage. There had existed a \ngreat prejudice against potatoes, which was overcome ; and \nsince their multiplication and general use, want has disappeared. \nNurseries were established to raise seed, and soil improved by \nartificial meadows and irrigation. \n\nThe Napoleonic period is mentioned as a prosperous on^ for \nagriculture. Yery old and unjust laws were abrogated, one of \nwhich was, that every third year the land should lie fallow ; \ntithes were abolished, as well as the right to free pasture, by \nwhich the cattle occupied an extent of ground, that could be \nmade to produce three times as much by cultivation, and their \nfood became richer and more abundant. \n\nIn Schaffhausen one half the land is in productive fields, and \nvineyards occupy thirty-five thousand acres. It is a rule in the \nnorthern cantons, where it is colder, to plant vines where wheat \nwould ripen in ordinary years by St. Jacob\'s day.* Until 1*198 \nthe law forbade every one to plant vines without permission of \n\n* There are several St. Jacob\'s days in the calendar, but the one to which this refer? \nis probably the 25th of July. \n\n\n\nSCHA-FFaATTSEN. 221 \n\nGovernment ; the reason being given that it was necessary to \nbe sure vines should not be planted in an ungenial soil and clime. \nIn some places where they are exposed to slides from heavy \nrains, they are planted in the form of the letter Y ; often have \nno particular form, bat are set here and there so far apart that \none can easily pass between the stocks. Often the principal \nbranch is bent in the form of a circle, and bound to a stake, on \nthe principle that the lower the stock the better is the wine ; but \nthe nearer they are to the earth, the more they are in danger of \nfrost. In winter the stakes are removed, and the vines laid upon \nthe earth, and covered with manure, or merely loosened and left \nto the protection of the snow. Different methods are practised \neverywhere according to the climate and soil. In Zurich they \nhave vines a hundred years old. \n\nIn Schafifhausen they are very utilitarian, and do not encou- \nrage vine culture, saying it requires six times more outlay in the \nbeginning, and four times more labour, and is the most preca- \nrious of all products. \n\nThe peasant costume is a dark blue skirt with a red border, \nred stockings, and shoes bound with blue ; a yellow apron, which \nforms part of the bodice, and blue kerchief round the neck, with \nthe ends hanging below the waist. The hair is brought to the \ntop of the head, and arranged in two large braids. The men \nwear small clothes and blue stockings, a jacket, with the lappets \nof yellow, a red vest and blue neckerchief. \n\nThere are no Alps and no shepherds, and very few flocks. \n\nThere is a school in every commune, and all the children can \nattend as early as five years of age, and must as early as seven, \ncontinuing in summer till they are eleven, and in winter till they \nare fourteen. In the city there are high schools, and a superior \none for young ladies. \n\n\n\n222 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe Church affairs are regulated upon the most republican \nplan, by an equal number of delegates from the Church and \nState, and the laity possessing an equal voice in all things with \nthe clergy. To all the thirty-five pastors in the canton the \nState allows about one thousand seven hundred and fifty dollars, \nwhich cannot afford to each a very luxurious life. Everywhere \nin the country in Switzerland the church service commences on \nSunday as early as seven or eight o\'clock in the morning. When \nwe asked why they assembled so early, they said, " Oh, the \npeople would become sleepy before it was over, if it began later." \nThe clergyman enters the church first, and when the people are \nassembled, all sing together. The pastor then ascends the pulpit \nand reads a prayer, during which all the people stand. The law \nforbids the sermon to be more than an hour in length. After \nthis is again prayer, and then publication of marriages, if there \nare any, and other notices, when they again sing, and the bless- \ning is pronounced. \n\nBetween twelve o\'clock and one they have the Sunday-school. \n\nIn all the churches we have seen, the baptismal font is of hewn \nstone, in front of the pulpit, large enough to hold several gallons. \nHere it is the same, but the baptisms take place on Wednesday \nand Friday afternoon, at four o\'clock. The sacrament is \nadministered five times during the year, on Sunday, the table \nbeing spread by placing a board upon the font, and the bread, \nwhich is unleavened, is broken and laid upon plates. The cups \nare of silver in the city, but sometimes of tin in the country. All \npass in a row to the table, the men having the precedence, taste \nthe bread and wine, saying at the same time, " This bread which \nwe break, and this cup which we drink." There is a service on \nthe Saturday afternoon previous, and also on the ordinary festi- \nval days. \n\n\n\nSCHAFFHAUSEN. 223 \n\nThere are no Catholics in the canton except in one little com- \nmune, which was not united to Schaffhausen till 1^99. \n\nThey have a custom, similar to that which exists in Zurich, of \nannouncing a bk\'th bysendmg a young girl to each house, orna- \nmented with flowers ; but she does not carry a bouquet in her \nhand except for a boy. At every house she receives a present \nfor her message. \n\nAt weddmgs the bridal pair receive presents from guests, but \ndo not also exchange them with each other, but they exhibit \na curious pecuUarity in employing the tailor of the bridegroom \nto invite the guests. \n\nFunerals are announced first by a woman, who wears a black \nveil or mask ; and the next day a man clothed in black goes to \nevery house, rings or knocks, pronouncing the name of each \nperson whom he invites. Expressions of sympathy and shaking \nof hands are received at the door, between twelve and one \no\'clock. The moment the clock strikes one, the coffin is covered \nwith black, and taken up by the bearers, who are in number accord- \ning to the rank of the deceased. The procession is formed, first \nby the male relations, the guild brothers, and then the poor, who \nafterwards receive gifts. Whilst the coffin is being lowered into \nthe grave, all assemble in church, where a simple prayer is offered \n\nEvery Sunday, men in long brown striped mantles knock at \neach door to obtain money, which forms a fund for those who \nare afflicted with some incurable disease. As they pass from \nhouse to house they sing, in no very musical chorus. \n\nThe cantonal colours are black and green, the long robe of \nthe Landwdhd being quite black, with a narrow green stripe in \nthe skirt. Upon their shield appears, in full length, a sheep ; \nbut the origin of such a promotion of these unpretending \nanimals we do not know. \n\n\n\n224 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nIn the eighth century there were only a few boatmen\'s huts \nwhere the city stands, and little skiffs the only vessels on the \nwater. Tlius it derived its name, scapha being the Latin for \nskiff, and the whole name Scafhusum. From the Swiss we have \noften heard this pronunciation, which is in accordance with \ntheir custom of leaving out the first letter of a dii3hthong, and \nplacing the accent on the last. \n\nIt is mentioned as a curious fact, that the Rhinefalls are not \nalluded to by any ancient or classic author. Yet they are not \nthe less famous in these days, and the one attraction of modern \nSchaffhausen. We went to see them, of course ; and when we \ncame in sight of a cascade, said to some one standing near, \n" What is this ?" " The Rhinefall, to be sure : is it not wonder- \nful ?" " Are you sure it is the Rhinefall ?" " Yes ; why do \nyou doubt it ?" " It is not so large as I expected, and does not \nseem so very grand." There had been a smile on our face, \nwhich spoke even plainer than our words, that it appeared very \ninsignificant. "But where can you find anything to equal it ?" \npm\'sued the gentleman, who was a German, from Russia. We \nanswered very quietly, \'\'We are from America." "Oh," \nanswered he, and burst out laughing, " it is not so strange : but \nfor me, I have seen nothing finer, though I have read of \nNiagara. \n\nWe were not so foolish as to expect a second Niagara, but \nwe expected the Rhinefall to surpass all lesser ones, yet in this \nwe were also disappointed. We have seen some that struck us \nas much finer, on the whole, even in Switzerland ; yet it is the \ngrandest they have in Europe, and is beautiful, as are all water- \nfalls. The greatest height is one hundred feet. The river alone \nis three hundred feet broad, and when the banks are fall, the \nvolume of water very large. It is certainly strange that it \n\n\n\nSCHAFFHA.USEN. 225 \n\nshould not have been mentioned by those who wrote of the city \nin its early days. \n\nThere is a salmon fishing in the bay below, which belongs to \nthe cloister Allenherlingen, and catching trout, a privilege which \nmust be bought of the old monks who dwell there. They are \nsaid to be worth the price, and never to sell for less than twenty \nsous a pound. \n\nHunting is a privilege of the State, which they grant to all \nwho will pay two or three dollars, for it ; thus deriving an in- \ncome from the forests of some hundreds of dollars every year. \n\nThis canton, as will be seen by the map, is a little circle, \nalmost surrounded by the Duchy of Baden. It is infinitely \ncurious to observe the difference of the people, divided only by \nan imaginary line, and the problem which presents itself every- \nwhere, and which we are never able entirely to solve, is here \nmore intricate than in many other places, how these few people \nwere able to throw off the yoke of foreign oppression, while those \naround them still groan under its burden. A French author, \nwho wrote some thh\'ty years since, said, in travelling along the \nborders, between Baden and Schaffhausen, that on one side the \npeople looked thriving and happy ; and on the other they were \n" covered with dirt, and half begged while the other half col- \nlected taxes I" They are a little improved from this picture \nsmce, but yet not very much. The taxes in Baden are nearly \nfive tknes as great as in Schaffhausen, yet the people live by the \nsame toil, and have the same resources. The rates of taxation, \nwhich we give on the next page, will show plainer than anything \nelse the reason of the absence of that extreme poverty in Swit- \nzerland which is to be found everywhere else in Europe. Their \nGoverment machinery costs scarcely anything ; for with them, \nas in America, no one expects to live by a Government office, \n\n10* \n\n\n\n226 \n\n\n\nTHE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\n\n\nand there is no class of people supported in idleness by the toil \nof others.* \n\nSchaffhausen was a great acquisition to the Confederacy, \nbecause of its position of defence, and as a post for the commerce \nof transit, and she has proved not less valuable in her fidelity to \nthe spirit of the republic, and the support of its institutions. The \ngreatest historian of Europe was a native of this httle canton, \nand she has given many to the ranks of usefulness and honour. \nWagner is known as among the reformers scarcely less influential \nthan Luther and Zwinglius, and the celebrated " Elegy of \nFolly," written by Erasmus, owed much of its spirit to the \n" Library of Fools," by Geiler, of Schaffhausen, who lived in \nthe fifteenth century. There originated the first effort to in- \n\n* Bate of taxation in different countries, in francs and centimes, a franc being a \nlittle less than twenty cents, and ^oe centimes equal to a cent. \n\n\n\n\n\nF. c. \n\n\n\n\nF. C. \n\n\nGreat Britain \n\n\n. . 33 20 \n\n\nSachs Weimer . \n\n\n. . 577 \n\n\nFrance . . \n\n\n. 12 So \n\n\nKurhessen . . \n\n\n. . 5 47 \n\n\nHolland. . . \n\n\n. 12 67 \n\n\nHanover . . . \n\n\n. . 5 38 \n\n\nBaden . . \n\n\n. 9 95 \n\n\nWurtemberg . \n\n\n. . 4 76 \n\n\nPrussia . . \n\n\n. . 9 3T \n\n\n\n\n\n\nDarmstadt . \n\n\n. 8 75 \n\n\nZurich .... \n\n\n. . 2 35 \n\n\nDenmark . \n\n\n. 8 70 \n\n\nSchaffhausen . \n\n\n. . 1 23 \n\n\nPortugal. . \n\n\n. 7 73 \n\n\nLucerne . . . \n\n\n. . 1 63 \n\n\nBavaria . , \n\n\n. 6 85 \n\n\nArgovia . . . \n\n\n. . 1 74 \n\n\n\nValais \nSt. Gall \n\n\n\nNeuchatel . \nBerne . . . \nBasil Land . \nSoleure . . \nVaud . . . \n\n\n\n2 7 \n2 54 \n2 63 \n2 98 \nG 9 \n\n\n\nWe give the expense of supporting the three governments of Zurich, Weimer, and \nBrunswick, states nearly of the same size and population. A thaler is about twenty \ncents less than a dollar. \n\n\n\nZurich. \n\n\n\nCourt . . . \n\n\n. . \n\n\nState Debt . \n\n\n. . 8,600 \n\n\nMilitary . . \n\n\n. . 122,000 \n\n\nPensions . . \n\n\n. . 4,000 \n\n\n\n129.600 \n\n\n\nWeimer. \n\n\nBrunswick. \n\n\n250,000 \n\n\n200,000 Thalers. \n\n\n800,103 \n\n\n428,407 \n\n\n153,825 \n\n\n315,287 " \n\n\n106,498 \n\n\n127,990 " \n\n\n815 921 \n\n\n1,131,684 Thalers. \n\n\n\nSCHAFFHAUSEN. 227 \n\nstruct the deaf and dumb, in a treatise written by Annan, a \nphysician and botanist, whose works are still read with interest. \n\nThe celebrated astronomical clocks of the cathedrals of \nCologne and \'Strasburg were constructed by artists of Schafif- \nhausen, and Mosier, sculptor and painter, was President of the \nAcademy of Painting of Great Britain. Trippel, who studied \nat Copenhagen, Paris, and Rome, had Canova among his pupils, \nand was one of the first sculptors of his age. He died, 1775. \n\nBut the name of which they, and perhaps Switzerland, is most \nproud, is Miiller, who was for a long time almost their only his- \ntorian, and who was honoui\'ed by every court of Europe. Hav \ning been professor of Greek many years in his own country, he \nwas invited to Cassel and Berlin, and afterwards was sent as \ndiplomat from Mayence to Rome. At Vienna he was created \nChevalier of the Empire, and director of the Imperial Library \nJS\'apoleon constituted him Minister of State at Westphalia, and \nDirector of Pubhc Instruction, and he was long the life and soul \nof several German universities. He died at Cassel, in 1809, \nwhere Louis of Bavaria has erected a monument to his memory. \nHis birthplace was the humble home of a poor citizen of Schaff- \nhausen. His maternal grandfather was Pastor Schoop, who \ncollected a considerable library of history for those times\' ; and \none day, calHng his little grandson into the room where they were, \nhe said, " I have collected these books and written these chro- \nnicles for you. Take good care df them and read them atten- \ntively." The face of the boy lighted up with a new expression, \nand he exclaimed, \'\' Grandpa, I wish also to ^vi-ite a book." \nThe old man Uttle dreamed how faithfully his treasures would \nbe preserved and pondered on. At five years old he assisted at \nthe nuptials of one of his parents, and mounting a chair, recited \ndramatically a portion of history in such a manner that all were \n\n\n\n228 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nenchanted. At nine years of age, he commenced the history of \nhis native city. \n\nWhen at Gottingen, a professor tried to detach him from his \ncountry, and the love of its free institutions, but he wrote to his \nfather, " No, I will come back to live with you in the bosom of \nmy country, and beloved by friends of virtue. It is better to \neat black bread, dipped in water, than commit one act unworthy \nof the nobility of our souls." When at Greneva, speaking of his \nhousehold, he said, \'\' My servants love me, accustomed as I am \nto despise no man, however humble. We are the children of one \nGod, and pride is one of the greatest curses of humanity." \n\nWhen he was writing his history, his brother wrote to ask \nwhy he was so slow in producing it ? He said, " I must be \nsure that it is correct ; there is not a chapter that I have not \nre-written many times, not a phrase which has not cost me many \nperusals in my chamber." Long years after it was finished, he \nwas travelling among the people of the little cantons, and com- \ning to the ruins of an old castle, he saw a peasant, and asked \nhim what it was. The man immediately gave him the story, and \nwhen questioned as to its authority and authenticity, he ex- \nclaimed, " Have I not read it all in the history of Mtiller, of \nSchaffhausen ?" All who would learn anything of Swiss history \nmust read the same, as it is the standard and true record of the \nglory and the shame of his country.* \n\n* Having decided to desciibe Switzerland by cantons, we found the most difficult part \nof tbe task to be a correct representation of each, without indulging in repetition. \nMany of the most interesting tilings are common to all, much in the general life, customs, \nagriculture, and history are the same everywhere, but we confine oursfilves entirely to \nthat which dififers in each, as the only way of presenting a complete idea of the whole. \nThey cannot, therefore, be judged separately, though thus written. Together they form \nSwitzerland, and like the parts of the body, each is necessary to the beauty and per- \nection of the whole, but a very indifferent and uninteresting object when standing alone. \nThe country life and manners of Schaffhausen would in detail too much res\'unblc. those \njf Zurich and Argovie to allow of particular description. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER Xy. \n\n\n\nBASLE. \n\n\n\nSOCIAL LIFE \xe2\x80\x94 OPINIONS OF OLD AUTHORS \xe2\x80\x94 REVOLUTIONS \xe2\x80\x94 JEWS \xe2\x80\x94 ROBBERS \nLOOMS \xe2\x80\x94 CELEBRATED \xe2\x80\x94 MEN. \n\n\n\nBasle is at the same time the most ancient and the most \nmodern of cities. In some things its inhabitants have made the \ngreatest progress, and in others they still remain at the very be- \nginning of the middle ages. Ever since anything has been said \nof them at all, they have been called " cold, haughty, and ex- \nclusive." Strangers who dwell among them at this day say the \nsame, and in one of their own journals, published not many \nyears since, we find what they say of themselves in the following \neditorial remarks : " Basle people are not favourites at home, or \nabroad, and for this they are somewhat at fault. They are \nthought to be excessively economical, but this is true only of \nthe rich. They have equipages, to be sure \xe2\x80\x94 a country house, \nand a house in town ; they travel and visit watering-places, but \nthey keep few servants, and spread a frugal table. They seldom \nmake parties, and never go to theatres or plays. The furniture \nis very plain in their houses, and their dress very simple. One \nreason of these habits of economy may be that they usually \n\n229 \n\n\n\n230 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nmake their own fortunes, and have for them a peculiar afiTection. \nWhen they part with a little gold, they feel as if parting with \ntheir identity. \n\n" Most fathers retam their fortunes till death, and sons are \nnot educated to live on independent incomes. They are not \nmore avaricious than elsewhere, but on the contrary remarkably \nbenevolent. Taxes and subscriptions for objects of charity are \nvery frequent, and also legacies to found benevolent institutions. \nBut it is very seldom that a man parts with any portion of his \nfortune during his hfetime for the public good. Even when \nchildless, he never thinks of promoting the happiness of his \nfellow-citizens or the beauty of the State. \n\n" They are social in a certain way, but a public, noble, social \nlife is not known among them. They are not idlers. Very few \nare ever to be seen at inns, clubs, or reading-rooms, but their \nlife is business. \n\n" Among women there are sewing circles and family parties ; \nbut such a thing as a soiree or mixed company, never. There \nare a few concerts for the rich, and two or three balls in the \ncourse of the winter. There are no coffee-gardens, and no people \nin the pubHc walks. How the marriageable youth ever become \nacquainted with each other is a mystery. \n\n" If this is the way they comport themselves to each other, \nwhat can strangers expect ? and it is true, that they are not only \nnot cordial to strangers, but glad to get rid of them. Whether \nit is the result of pride, self-complacency, or easy indifference, we \ncannot tell. One reason is, that no marriages take place out \n01 then* own circles, and thus no ties are formed to lead them to \ntake an interest in any who dwell not among them. \n\n" Another reason is the influence of the guilds. Every me- \nchanic is jealous of strangers,, and sees in each one a competitor \n\n\n\nBASLE. 231 \n\nwho will by some production rival and depreciate his own. This \nleads to a secret war of all towards all, or a reserve, which, pre- \nvents all cordiality and friendliness. They are often heard to \ndeplore this among themselves, and say they ought to change ; \nbut nothing is done towards effecting so important a social revo- \nlution." \n\nThis is a true picture, but it is not true of Basle alone. In \nmany towns of Switzerland and Germany there is the same cold, \nstiff unsociality, often merely because they do not know any \nother way. If a family or an individual comes into the place, \nto whom they really wish to be polite, they give a ball for them, \nand of course think it a great trouble and great expense, dread \nit and groan over it, and end with the conclusion, "that stran- \ngers are a great nuisance," and the resolution to let them alone. \nThey have friends and society enough for their own pleasure ; and \nneither as a matter of Christian duty or benevolence or common \nkindness will they make an effort to promote the happiness of \nanother. They never go where they see anything different, and \nhow can they practise what they never heard of ? Their balls \nare insufferably stupid, a constant whirl of dances, without the \nrelief of conversation, after the manner of the middle ages, when \n\'\'brave knights and fair ladies," stiff with brocade and powder, \nwhirled each other round, because they were not capable of any \nhigher amusement. There was some excuse for them, because \nknowledge was not within their reach, and intelligence had then \nnot even a name. But it is a still more ridiculous sight to see \ngentlemen and ladies in these days, who call themselves edu- \ncated, spend a whole evening in these puppet performances. \nYet they are not a great way from France, where conversation \nis the highest accomplishment, where at a ball the dancing is \nonly secondary, and where little unceremonious gatherings foi \n\n\n\n232 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthe sole purpose of conversation are the occurrences of every \nevening. \n\nThere can be no such thing as hospitahty where great dinners \nor great suppers are the ne plus ultra; and until this idea is \nbanished from Switzerland and Germany, they will never be \neither hospitable or intelligent, elegant in manners or hberal in \nopinion ; because these accomplishments can only be acquired \nby an easy and cordial intercourse with others of different na- \ntions and different customs, and those who affect to be religious \nwithout hospitality, must study something besides the New Tes- \ntament for example and precept. \n\nAt the time of the great Council in Basle in 1438, when five \nhundred ecclesiastics assembled and remained months within its \nwalls, ^neas Sylvius, afterwards Pope Pius the Second, acted \nas secretary. He wrote also some familiar letters to Cardinal \nJulian concerning the manners and customs of the people. In \none of them he says, " There are no old houses, because the city \nhas experienced so many earthquakes, and no remnants of the \nmiddle ages ! They have gardens and brunnens, and eat and \nsleep in heated rooms, which are finished very beautifully with \npanels and glass windows, and furnished hke Florentine houses. \nThe rich people have apartments in front like palaces for rich- \nness, and beautiful fountains before almost every door. They \nare very pious, but have no fancy for heathen literature, and \nnever heard of Cicero. The nobihty have a winter and summer \nresidence and large buildings for balls. The rich dress in black, \nand eat a great part of the day. The boys go barefoot, and \nthe women wear white or black shoes. They are very upright, \nand rather be honest than appear so." \n\nWe are always particularly interested in the transactions of \nthe year 1492, and find at this period in Basle the Government \n\n\n\nBASLE. 233 \n\nprincipally concerned in enacting laws against extravagance in \ndress, bat they are too similar to those in Zurich and Lucerne \nto need repetition ; and during two or three centuries the ma- \ngistrates were employed a good portion of the time in the same \nway. They constituted a police to regulate customs, and ascribe \nthe simplicity of the people to this measure. \n\nCastles were almost as numerous in the region of Basle as in \nGraubtinden, and the city beset with nobility ; but so early as \n1260 the privileges of the burgesses were formally written, and \nthey insisted that emperors and bishops and noblesse should \nrespect their rights. Before the seventeenth century nearly all \nthe noble families had died out, moved away, or incorporated \nthemselves with the citizens. \n\nIn 15 tl, an author wrote, " Basle is a very beautiful city and \nthe people very honest. A chest of gold or silver might stand \nin the street, and no one would touch it. Men have no need of \narms, and the women no need of protectors." \n\nYet only ten years later, Montaigne wrote, " The people are \nCalvinists, Zwinglians, and heathen ; the women without mo- \ndesty, and the men drunken." \n\nIn 1610, some one says, " The houses are very beautiful, and \nthe women beautiful beyond example, and dress richer than in \nany other land. There is scarcely any difference between \nmasters and servants in dress or manners ; they sit at the same \ntable, only the servants take their places later, and rise earlier." \n\nIn 1658, we find in the book of a Bernese, " The people of \nBasle dress more than in any other city of Switzerland. They \nwear velvet shoes embroidered with pearls ; but they are coarse \nin their manners. Some merchants went the other day to the \nfair at Strasburg, and entered the inn, where were already set \nmany tables for dinner. The innkeeper sent the servant with a \n\n\n\n234 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nroast goose, and told him to set it before the Basle people \n* Where are they V asked the servant. * Oh, look around when \nyou go in, and where they are the noisiest and most ill-bred, set \ndown the goose,. and you will make no mistake.\' \n\n" The servant had no sooner opened the door, than some one \ncried out, \' Here, you dog, hand us the goose.\' He thought to \nhimself, \' Surely these are the Basilians,\' and obeyed their com- \nmand, finding afterwards that he was right." \n\nYet twenty years later a Parisian says of them, \'\'They are \nupright and courteous beyond most people. They have been \ncalled coarse and awkward, but it is not true." \n\nDr. Moore wrote of them in 17 1 9, "They are very exclusive \nand earnest, and the few I saw very stiff. Whether this is real \nor affected, I could not tell, but how it ever became an opinion \nthat solemn gravity in the every-day business and intercourse of \nlife is evidence of uncommon understanding, I never could con- \nceive." \n\nA Saxon who visited them in 1785 writes, " They never have \nany but family parties, and know nothing of mixed assemblies. \nEvery one, when he leaves, must express his thanks to the \nhostess in a formal manner, and not to say \' Good evening \' to \nthe host is a breach of politeness ! The ladies are handsome, \nand the burghers\' daughters usually learn French and dancing." \n\nIn 1786, a Swiss author says, " They live too much in families, \nand become narrow-minded and obstinate in opinion." \n\nIn 1809, one of their own citizens says of them, " Their social \nlife is too earnest and serious ; they do not know enough of \nmodern literature or the times. Coffee is seldom allowed even \nin rich families, and the style of dress which a lady has when \nshe is married must be worn through life ; a man would think \nhe was traitor to his country if he allowed her to do otherwise. \n\n\n\nBASLE. 235 \n\nWh(5n the meu are not engaged in business, they assist their \nwives and train then* daughters. The family festivals are new \nyear\'s, name days, harvest and vintage." \n\nThese various testimonies in the early periods leave the im- \npression, that exclusiveness was originally the characteristic of \nthe people of Basle ; and still, in 1837, a German says of them, \n" As proud and earnest as their Mtinster are the Basilians. \nEven aristocratic Berne does not compete with patrician Basle, \nwhere piety and quiet contrast with gilt and glitter." \n\nAnd in the same year a Frenchman wiites, \'\' One would \nthiuk the whole city was to let, judging from the closed windows \nand doors, where neither ladies nor children are to be seen on \nthe balconies, nor pretty maidens chatting at the fountains, \nnothing but servants with their everlasting mops, scrubbing, \nscrubbing. The fronts of the houses are all closed, but one \nneed not conclude from this that the ladies never look out of \nthe window and have no curiosity. They have little glasses, \nwhich are arranged at the side of the window, and reflect all \nthat passes in the street without any greater efifort than turning \ntheir eyes.* This is the unsociality of all the Swiss. Whether \nit is republican exclusiveness, or aversion to social pleasure, or \nburgher pride, or the egotism of small states, which is the \ngreatest hindrance to small governments, we cannot decide." \n\nThese are the opinions of many people of various positions, \nwho saw all classes ; and if we add the testimony of 1859, it \nwould not differ materially. They are determined not to \nchange. \n\nYet there is a strange inconsistency between this selfish social \nevil and the interest and benevolence they manifest towards all \n\n* These glasses we saw also in Germany and other cities in Switzerland, and they are \nvery convenient for those who are willing to be seen, and those who are not. \n\n\n\n236 \n\n\n\nTHE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\n\n\nclasses of j^oor, and towards the heathen of other lands. They \nsupport one hundred and fifty colporteurs in France, and distri \nbute seven thousand Bibles annually. \n\nThe whole canton is twenty square leagues in extent, of \nwhich the city occupies scarcly two. The whole population is \nseventy-eight thousand, and the city numbers about thirty thou- \nsand. Their separation and the cause we have elsewhere ex- \nplained, as being entirely in consequence of the unwiUingness of \nthe city to grant to the country an equality in representation and \nin the enjoyment of rights and privileges. They remonstrated \nand remonstrated in vain, and then rebelled, fomenting and re- \ntaining a bitter spirit, which is ahke detrunental to the interests \nof all. \n\nBut the influence of the Federal Government is everywhere to \nharmonize and create a national feeling. If they can now only \nremain in peace long enough to carry out the measures of the \nFederal Council, and prove the wisdom of unity, they will in \nthe next ten years progress more than they have in the last hun- \ndred. \n\nThe insurrections and disputes of which we read so much in \nSwitzerland are misunderstood and misrepresented. Monarch- \nists quote them to prove the instability of republics, and the \nunfitness of the people to govern themselves ; when the truth is, \nthey prove exactly the contrary. So long as oppression existed \nin any form, and rights and privileges were secured to one class, \nwhich were entirely beyond the reach of others, however worthy \nthey might become, or however they might struggle and toil to \nobtain them, so long there was restlessness and discontent. The \ncountry people of Canton Basle asked only what it was right they \nshould have, and though the Federal Diet and the Federal \ntroops came to force them to yield, they resisted unto blood. \n\n\n\nBASLE. 23T \n\nAnd when they found the city would not yield and admit them \non an equality, they withdrew and formed a distinct Govern- \nment by themselves. As soon as they were free, they were con- \ntent ; and it is only eleven years since this equality was spread \nover all the republic. \n\nIn Basle the guilds are still in full operation, with the same \nlaws and restrictions as existed in the thirteenth century. In \n1798 they were abolished, and all protection removed ; but \nduring the period of mediation, in 1803, they were restored, as \nfar as mechanical trades are concerned. Under this head they \nnumber sixteen in the city, and to one of these every citizen \nmust belong, enrolhng his name at the age of twenty, at which \nperiod he begins to exercise the right of suffrage ; those who \nhave a trade inscribing their names in the guild-hook of the trade \nor caUing to which they belong ; and those who follow a busi- \nness or profession not included among the number of guild \ncorporations, are recorded members where their fathers are. \n\nThese corporations superintend the different benevolent socie- \nties for the support of widows, and the guardianship of orphans. \n\nThe guild-regulations are the same of those we described at \nlength in Germany. Each one must learn his trade by a regular \napprenticeship ; travel a certain period, finish a masterpiece, and \nbe regularly received into the guild, conforming to all its laws \nand requirements. jS\'o one who has not been thus approved can \nwork at any trade ; no one can make articles belonging to the \ntrade of another ; and nothing made elsewhere of the same kind \nas that produced in the city can be sold. Compensation is fixed, \nand the time of payment. Formerly, legitimate birth was one \nof the requisitions to brotherhood, but this statute is repealed. \nEa\xe2\x82\xach guild is taxed for the aid of the apprentices, and for those \nwho are sick. \n\n\n\n238 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe liberal-minded among themselves say that the object of \nprotection, which is professed, is not secured ; and the whole \nsystem is evil, and not good. \n\nThe nmnber of inns is prescribed by law ; but the small coffee- \nhouses and restaurants are not limited, except to ordain that \nonly citizens can estabhsh them. It is not strange to find people \nwho are thus exclusive to Christians, exercising the most uujust \nand ilhberal policy towards the Jews. \n\nIn the city no Jew is allowed to have a residence unless born \nthere, and the children of these must obtam special permission \nin order to remain. \n\nIn the country all trade and commerce are denied to Jews \nwithout exception. Whoever employs a Jew in business or in \nthe family is liable to a fine of sixty dollars. In case of repeti- \ntion of the offence, the punishment is seventy-five days\' imprison- \nment. Thus a father may have a son in America who cannot \nvisit his home or participate in the employment of his family \nwithout incurring the penalty of the law. \n\nOn the days of fairs and markets, Jews may expose their \nwares, but a peddler is not allowed in the land. \n\nIf any one rents a shop to a Jew, he is fined ten dollars. \n\nThey may travel through the canton if furnished with a good \npassport, but any one who will inform against a Jew is allowed \na third of the fine which is demanded for transgression. \n\nThere are no restrictions in city or country concerning trades \ncarried on after the manner of manufactm*cs. These include silk, \ncotton, woollen, straw, paper, tobacco, burning tiles, and cahco \nprinting. \n\nThe first paper-mill established in Switzerland was at Basle, \nin 14 to ; the first printing-press in 1460 ; and we may see speci- \nmens of their books in the Library printed in 1474. \n\n\n\nBASLE. 239 \n\nOne thousand persons are employed in the different processes \nof cotton manufacturing, but it is the ribbons which have gained \nfor Basle its modern \'\'wonder and renown." \n\nAs in Zurich, the looms for this species of industry are scat- \ntered all over the country ; and should we enter any house, the \nscene would be nearly the same as that we described where the \nweb was gros de JYaples, In weaving ribbons the loom is filled \nwith many webs instead of one. Besides those who weave, are \nthose who quill. This is done by the aged and children ; and \nthere are some also who twist and reel. Often all these may be \nseen in the same house in full operation, and sometimes three or \nfour looms working together. They have, too, the art of dye- \ning to perfection, with the knowledge of chemical proportions \nand combinations which enables them to produce all the colours \nof the rainbow, and many more, with an exactness that defies \ncompetition. But more curious it is to see those delicate offices \nperformed by hands that cook, and sweep, and dig, and scrub, \nwith equal ease and indifference. Behold a loom filled with the \nrichest scarlet ribbon in brocade and flowers. The notable \nhousewife weaves a yard or two, and attends to her potatoes for \ndinner, \xe2\x80\x94 weaves .another yard, and fries her sausage and boils \nher sauerkraut. The table is laid, and while the "gude man" \nis washing the dust of the field from his hands, she steps into \nthe loom, and adds a mite to the silken treasure ; and thus are \nfinished, in all their elaborate details, these beautiful fabrics. \n\nScattered over the country are between four and five thou- \nsand looms, which employ in weaving, quilhng, reeling, dyeing, \netc. nearly twenty thousand people, who yet spend a goodly \nportion of their time in other ways. These looms have increased \ntwo or three thousand in the course of the last century. \n\nBut in the city there are large manufactories, which employ \n\n\n\n240 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\neach three thousand persons. It is a still prettier and more \nwonderful sight to see hundreds of looms each filled with a dif- \nferent colour, or with webs each of many colours, developing by \na process, which is to us so incomprehensible, flowers and figures \nand checks, without the variation of a thread ; all the machin- \nery regulated upon the same principle, and moved by the same \npower. We have wondered where the webs were all white and \nof the same length and width, but here we stood wondering al- \nmost like \n\n"Katterfelto with his hair on end." \n\nTo describe the machinery would be as impossible to us as to \nmeasure the stars. The noise is a buzz, more torturing than \nthe loud thumping of coarser and heavier looms ; and in the de- \ntails there are many variations from the ordinary construction \nof reeds and shuttles and beams. \n\nIn one factory are produced fifty thousand yards a day, and \nthree millions of dollars\' worth go every year to America. We \nsaid to the obliging proprietor, who accompanied .us over every \npart of the establishment, \'\'They are very dear when they get \nto us ;" and he said he was very happy to hear it ! But what \nis stranger, they are no cheaper right here within the sound of \nthe buzz, than when they have crossed the Atlantic. \n\nIn another room they are assorting the skeins, and finding \n" a thread that will runf and in different apartments are twist- \nings and twirlings of all descriptions, with every na,il and reel \nand beam and spindle wreathed with the brilliant threads. The \nfloors are also covered with the same, and it seemed to us almost \nlike scattering gold-dust in such profusion. \n\nThere must be a great waste of the raw material in the differ- \nent processes, but they understand very well how t\xc2\xab) calculate \n\n\n\nBASLE. 241 \n\nloss and profit, so as to make the prices atone for each particle \nthat falls. \n\nThe spinners and weavers, all women, have a neat, tidy look, \nwhich is not usual in factories, and in no instance seem haggard \nand life-weary. The average wages paid each is three dollars and \nseventy-five cents per week, and sometimes whole families are \nemployed ; and if there are four persons, this amounts to fifteen \ndollars. But some individuals are paid five dollars or five dol- \nlars and fifty cents a week : and if any one is sick so that she \ncannot work, her wages are continued just the same, 8,nd those \nwho have spent their lives in the factory, receive their accus- \ntomed wages in old age till they die. Among the operatives \nthere is an association, to which all belong, taxing themselves to \nprovide a fund for the sick and aged, and to this the proprietors \ncontribute a sum equal in amount to that furnished by the \nmembers. \n\nThe buildings stand in an open, healthy place, and are \nfurnished with air and water in abundance, and we could not \nsee that there was anything lacking, that justice or humanity \nrequired, which it would be possible to have in the performance \nof such labour. \n\nSo late as the last century a law was made prohibiting ladies \nto dress entirely in silk ; and on the Sabbath all were required \nto wear black in church. No citizen was allowed to have a \nfootman mounted behind his carriage within the city, or to \nclothe him in livery. \xc2\xbb \n\nIn 1711, it was prohibited to perambulate the city after ten \no\'clock in the evening ; and no person could drive a carriage \nwith four horses, unless he could prove that he had at least \nthree leagues to travel. \n\nAt the time the University of Basle was founded, in 1460, \n\n11 \n\n\n\n242 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthere were only seven in Europe ;* and it had the first year \ntwo hundred and twenty students. \n\nIn 1521, Erasmus was enrolled among its professors, and many \nof the theologians of the Reformation added to its celebrity. \n\nThe city derives its name from a fortified castle named Basilia\' \nbuilt in 360 by Yalentinian I., and from that day to this it has \nbeen renowned, first in one way and then in another, but always \nrenowned \n\nThere is an old house here, as well as in Zurich, where a \ntroubadour is said to have poured forth his sighs in song beneath \nthe lattice ; and many a legend of the dark ages clings to its \ntowers. \n\nFor centuries their clocks had the peculiarity of striking an \nhour in advance, and when from the great tower one pealed \nforth, the watchman cried twelve. The members of the great \ncouncil were accused of regulating them in a way to do this in \norder to prolong their sessions. But from whatever cause they \nwent wrong, they utterly refused to be set right till a few years \nsince. \n\nThe glory of Basle in the field of science is Euler, who was \nborn in 170T. He founded the Academy of Sciences in Berlin, \nand was called by Catherine to be President of the Imperial \nAcademy of Sciences at St. Petersburg. His works on mathe- \nmatics are the study of all who wish to be renowned in the same \ndepartment of learning. \n\nThe first botanical garden of which we have any knowledge \nflourished on Basilian soil, and was planted by Felix Plates, \nwho died in 1614 ; and the first local flora originated also with \na professor in the same University. It was the school of all the \n\n* Bologne, Paris, Cologne, Heidelberg, Friburg in Baden, Erfurt, and Vienna. \n\n\n\nBASLE. 243 \n\nSwiss and many German reformers. Basilian diplomatists and \ngenerals have added lustre to every European court and army ; \nand her poets and artists have received the homage of a world. \nThe elder Holbein was born in Augsburg, and was invited to \nBasle to paint the Hotel de Ville. It was the native city of \nhis sons, the younger of whom went to England recommended \nby Erasmus ; none of them painted the famous " Dance of \nDeath," as is often stated, which is due to an artist of Berne. \nOrnamenting houses with frescoes was first commenced in this \ncity, and the interior of their Miinster seems to us more beau- \ntiful than any other we have seen in Europe. \n\nWe hope we have done justice to their good works, and that \nthey will so model their manners after Christian and human- \nitarian principles, as to do justice to themselves I \n\n\n\n\nd ^i \n\n\n\nn \n\n\n\nCHAPTER XYI. \n\nST. GALL. \n\nMONET-MAKING\xe2\x80\x94 VICES OF MATERIAL LIFE \xe2\x80\x94 EMBROIDERIES \xe2\x80\x94 SWISS \nMUSLINS \xe2\x80\x94 CHERRY WATER\xe2\x80\x94 CITY LIFE. \n\nBy way of reproach, St. Gall is called the Yankee Canton of \nSwitzerland,* because they are a money-making people, and \ncare too much for the things of this world. They have the \nvices of ambition, industry, perseverance, and love of the \nluxuries and comforts of life, rather than idleness, poverty, and \ndestitution. A distinguished German philosopher says, " The \nvices engendered by material life are not so many or so gross as \nthose of dreamy idleness, and not so many die of melancholy \nand madness in manufacturing towns and great cities, as in the \ncountry ; those who spend their time in solitude and dreams, are \n\n\n\n* We are here reminded of a curious incident, related to us by Mr. Mason, the American \nMinister at Paris. In an oQicial interview with the Persian Ambassador, he noticed that \nin speaking of Americans he called them always YangJie and the new world Yanghe. \ndonia. Yangee was the term applied to the first English by the North American \nIndians, as our readers well know, and afterwards changed by the British soldiers in the \ntime of the Revolution to Yankee, and made a term of reproach to America. We leave \nto philologists to philosophise upon the resemblances between Indian and Persian \ntongues. \n244 \n\n\n\n8T. GALL. 24:5 \n\nmore likely to be corrupt than those who enjoy merry company \nand the activity of thickly populated places." * \n\nOur observation has led us to the conclusion, that calculating \nto make money, has not so bad an influence on the character, as \ncalculating to save it ; and those who study and contrive so \nassiduously to save a few kreutzers might be better employed in \nmaking a few francs. \n\nThe north of Switzerland is infested with beggars, but a Ger- \nman author f says, they are from Bavaria, and other provinces \nof Southern Germany. They come in troops to join the pilgrims \nto Einsiedeln, and afterwards wander through the land. Many \nchildren are born and left by the mothers at the doors of the \npeople in the night, whilst they return to their poverty-stricken \nhomes. Almost all the servants are from among the same peo- \nple, and in the cantons where their labour is most needed, the \nimmorality is frightful. \n\nStatistics will prove that the poor of Switzerland are few in \ncomparison with those of all the nations which surround them. \nFor every species of labour the wages are a third, and some- \ntimes one half more, than in Germany. J In Bavaria, and some \nother provinces of Germany, the illegitimate children are more \nthan the legitimate. In Wurtemburg, the proportion is one in \neight, while in no canton of Switzerland is it greater than one \nin sixteen, and, in some one in a hundred, and in others none at \nall I \n\nWho would believe, if figures did not prove it, that the ave- \nrage number of deaths in the crowded city of London is not so \ngreat as in the Duchy of Nassau, where there is no great city, \nand most of the people live in the country ? J \n\n* Man and his Physical Relations, by Dr. Oesterlen. + Ebel. % Dr. Oesterlen. \n\n\n\n246 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nOne great reason of this is the want of proper food and \ncleanliness, and those are lacking, because the women are \nemployed in unsuitable labour, and are also utterly ignorant of \nthe art of cooking. The same German physician and philosopher \nwhom we have quoted, says, \' \' The construction of the houses \neverywhere in Germany, with reference to ventilation and clean- \nliness, is barbarous, and it is impossible for people to live in them, \nto be wholly Christian, civilized, or healthy." \n\nThe universal want of aqueducts, and the consequent defi- \nciency of water for all household purposes, is another great \ncause. This is the same in Switzerland, only that the fountains \nare more plentiful, and the water, though carried on the heads \nof women, needs not to be transported quite so far. \n\nIn England, the average quantity of water used by each \nfamily daily is three hundred quarts, making from thirty to forty \nto each individual, while in Germany, the average proportion in \nevery family is only ten quarts I * Yet for those ten quarts \neach family pays three times as much as is paid in England for \nthree hundred, if the time of the women is taken into account, \nand also the destruction of clothing and health, which must \nnecessarily be immense. \n\nThese are statistics which have been carefully gathered by a \nGerman and fiihlished concerning his native land, not in malice, \nbut with the hope of awakening attention to the matter, instead \nof sitting down in pride and self-complacency to deny what \neverybody can see who has eyes. \n\nIf there is no way for individuals to improve except by being \ntold their faults, the same is not the less true of nations ; and would \nthat some mighty whirlwind would sweep over this great conti- \n\n* Dr. Oesterlen : " Man and his Physical Relations." \n\n\n\nST. GALL. 247 \n\nnent, and scatter for ever the dust and cobwebs of centuries \nfrom their habitations, and some purifying flood wash out the \ndank and mould that cover with the gloom of ages their minds \nand hearts. \n\nSt. Gall is one of the manufacturing cantons, but adds to her \nspinning and her weaving the embroidering of the fabrics after \nthey leave the loom. The Swiss muslins we need not describe ; \nthere is not a city or a village in America where they are not, \nand perhaps not a family which has not m some form a specimen \nof the beautiful tissues here produced. The value of the embroi- \nderies alone amounts to one million dollars, and the ladies of \nEngland and America buy it for Parisian work, as it is bought \nby the merchants of Paris, and sold by them under this name. \nNo Parisian, however skillful, could produce anything more \nbeautiful. \n\nOur attention was first attracted to them in the carriages on \nour way, when an old woman and a young girl opened their \nboxes for the display of their wares. They had been on a tour \nto sell..the products of their labour, and had not parted with all. \nSome gentlemen thought it a nice opportunity to secure a pretty \ngift to the ladies at home, when they should return ; but alas, \nthey did not know enough of " style and fashion " to select. \nThey turned them over and over, and finally appealed to us to \ntell them, if "this was the fashion," and that a \'\'reasonable \nprice f and another inquired if the one he held up would be sure \nto please his wife ? We would answer the one about as well as \nthe other, the modes not being our province of inquiry ; but we \ndid the best we could, and hesitated not to say that a neat little \ncollar would become the good Prau, and that no doubt it would \nbe considered entirely comme il faut in the little village where they \nlived on the Caspian Sea. \n\n\n\n248 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nWhen the gentlemen were satisfied, we talked with the owners \nof the pretty things, and learned they had a stickstuhe \xe2\x80\x94 an \nembroidery room \xe2\x80\x94 in Appenzell, where they employed twenty- \nfive maidens, and paid them each twenty sous a day besides \ntheir board. The muslin was purchased in St. Gall, and ftir- \nnished to each person, who embroidered it, and, when finished, \nit was bleached, and the greater proportion carried to St. Gall \nagain to sell. "We thanked them for their information, and \npromised, when in Appenzell, to call and see them in the midst \nof their maidens, which we afterwards did. \n\nFrom our window in the old city we looked out upon the \nmarket-place and a fountain. If the aqueducts should be con- \nstructed, they would certainly spoil very much of our travelling \npleasure, for not less in Switzerland than in Germany are the \nfountains never-ending sources of amusement, as they are the \nuniversal rendezvous for gossip and the discussion of village \naffairs. \n\nHere the horses came to be watered and washed, the children \nto drink, the servants to fill their tubs ; and though there are \nfour large spouts to the great pump stock, they are not able to \nsupply the demand. The receiving vessel is a great octagon- \nformed basin, and little tubes conduct from the spout to the \nedge of the basin, which are only used when clean water is \nwanted. At other times they are pushed on one side, and the \nstream falls into the trough. But often they forget to remove \nthem, and soon there is a river pouring over street and pave- \nment, and the next comer scolds merrily that she cannot get \nnear without wetting herself from top to toe. The vessels iu \nwhich they transport the. water on their heads, are copper \nkettles, with a rim round the bottom, and from six to ten in the \nevening of one day, we watched the process of making these and \n\n\n\nST. GALL. 249 \n\nothers bright as muTors, all being done at the \'\'Brunnen," and \nthen splashed m the water. \n\nOn the evening before market, the bushels of potatoes and \nbags of meal begin to assemble, and arrange themselves in rows \non the square ; and in the morning, long before we are there, \nthe beets, cabbages, and " other vegetables," have paraded \nthemselves with due formality near. Then come horses and \ncows, and pigs and goats, bleating and baaing their aversion to \nbeing made the objects of barter and gain ; while old women \nwith cheese, and young women with knick-knacks, erect little \ntents and booths for exhibiting their stores ; and baskets of \nberries, and balls of butter, peep temptingly out from the green \nleaves, which keep them cool and clean. The markets are all \nalike, not furnishing variety enough to give material for des- \ncription. \n\nBut the days when the damsels come with their embroideries, \nand the merchants meet them to pay their wages, and measure \nto them new pieces, offer a novel scene. Not only from Switzer- \nland, but from Bavaria and Baden, from Alsatia, Wurtemberg, \nand Tyrol, they anive with their Httle boxes, containing the \nbeautiful fabric over which their fingers have ached and their \neyes wearied \xe2\x80\x94 which please to remember, fair reader, when you \nbeat down the price of some fine handkerchief or " set of collar \nand sleeves." They get a much better reward for their labours \nthan the lace-makers of Saxony ; but we asked one young girl \nhow long it would take her to embroider the handkerchief she \nhad begun, and she said, a quarter of a year \xe2\x80\x94 three months day \nand evening, all the time she could see to work ! \n\nIn Appenzell, the little canton lying entirely within the limits \nof St. Gall, still more are employed in this species of labour, and \nin the two cantons together, seven thousand persons, who \n\n11* \n\n\n\n250 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nfinish from one hundred and fifty to two hundred thousand \npieces every year, and earn nearly four hundred thousand \ndollars. \n\nIn all the different processes of spinning, weaving, bleaching, \netc., fifty thousand persons are employed the whole or a part of \nthe year, whose united wages amount to one million five hundred \nthousand dollars, and the average wages of each are fifty dollars. \nThey include many aged and children, who perform light labour, \nand work but a small portion of the time. \n\n"We had never thought of inquiring how webs of muslin were \nbleached, till we saw them stretched by means of wooden pins \nand stakes in long rows in the sun. They are too delicate to lie \non the grass, and stand slanting wise, two or three feet from the \nground. They are, of course, yellow, like any other cotton, \nwhen they leave the mill or loom, and when perfectly white, \nmust be starched, ironed, and pressed. \n\nWhen factories were first established in St. Gall, nine bleach- \ning houses, several for pressing, ironing and packing were built \nby Government, and laws made to prevent all fraud. \n\nlet. \xe2\x80\x94 That all webs before being laid to bleach be examined \nby a committee, and when unfit for use, should be cut to pieces \nand burnt. \n\n2d. \xe2\x80\x94 To see that every piece has one hundred and thirty-four \nells. \n\n3d. \xe2\x80\x94 That whilst bleaching, it should be watched by men \nsworn to fidelity. \n\n4th. \xe2\x80\x94 That all webs after being bleached, should be examined \nwith the same exactness. \n\n5th. \xe2\x80\x94 All webs which are to be coloured should be subject \nto the same examination. \n\n6th. \xe2\x80\x94 A fraud in any department should be severely punished. \n\n\n\nST. GALL. 251 \n\nPieces of muslin, richly embroidered with gold and silver, sell \nfor between two and three hundred dollars. \n\nThrough all the cantons St. Gall and Appenzell, one sees the \nwheels turning, and hears the looms thumping from almost \nevery house in some villages, especially in the northern part. \nThe weaving room is usually on the ground-floor, to which they \ndescend from above by a trap-door. They say, the muslin is \nnot so good unless woven in the cellar, and to increase its \nbeauty, or the facihty for weaving, they wet the threads with \nmeal and water. \n\nFor the finest muslins a half-ounce of cotton spins a thread \nfrom sixteen to twenty thousand feet long, but the ordinary \nlength from the same quantity is only from nine to ten thou- \nsand. \n\nThose who weave at home, own their looms and buy their \ncotton. When the webs are finished, they are given to a col- \nlector, who goes from house to house to receive them, and carry \nthem to St. Gall. If necessity does not compel them to sell \nimmediately, they keep the pieces till there are several, and dis- \npose of them to better advantage. \n\nThe mushn which is embroidered in other states is returned \nunbleached and almost black ; but that which is embroidered \nwith gold and silver cannot be washed, and is therefore all done \nin Switzerland under their own eyes. \n\nIn Zurich and St. Gall both silks and crapes are made, which \nmerchants sell for India goods. \n\nThe first attempt at weaving muslin was in It 53 ; but St. \nGall was famous for its cloths in the thirteenth century, which \nwere known as Constance Cloths, many having emigrated thither \nfrom Constance in 1414 at the time of the session of the council, \nand given great activity to industry. In 1190, forty thousand \n\n\n\n252 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\npersons were already employed in embroidering ; and agents \nwere sent into other countries to establish factories. In 1*134 \nappeared the first loom set in motion by water, and in 1*140 the \nfirst calicoes and handkerchiefs were printed. The revolution \nof It 98 destroyed all monopolies ; and English markets being \nclosed, a great impetus was given to industry in Switzerland, \nand they held their first exposition, a Crystal Palace on a small \nscale, in 1813, which was successful as an experiment. \n\nIn the southern part of the canton agriculture flourishes, and \nin the Rhine valley we see here and there large patches of \nIndian corn which the Indians might be willing to own ; and in \nthe alpine pastures are some sixty thousand cattle, goats, and \nsheep. \n\nEverywhere in the northern cantons fruit-trees are standing \nlike forests ; and there is not only a brandy distillery in almost \nevery commune, but also a cider mill. Pears are pressed for \ntheir juice, and cherries crushed to make what they call cherry \nwater. \n\nWe one day saw a decanter upon a table filled with what we \nsupposed to be water, as it was colourless, and we had never \nseen any stronger liquid without some slight tinge of yellow, \nred, or purple. Being thirsty, we thought to help ourselves, \nand took a generous draught, which in an instant had pervaded \nevery drop of blood in our veins. It was cherry water, but it \nsurely deserves a more significant appellation. \n\nIt is made by crushing fresh cherries and pounding them, as \nthe juice is expressed from grapes. They are then kept slightly \nwarm till fermentation takes place, which sometimes happens \nthe second, and often not till the fourth week. The tub remains \ncovered, and the pulp is stirred every two days. It can then \nremain a long time without injury, or be immediately distilled \n\n\n\nST. GALL. 253 \n\nlike brandy. So long as it runs clear, it is of the right taste \nand consistency, but when the liquid is thick, it is put back with \nthe pulp in the still. To prevent its taking fire before it begins \nto boil, it is stirred violently. Like good wine, it improves \nwith age. An imitation is sometimes made of plums, but can \neasily be detected by mixing it with a few drops of water, when \nit looks murky, and, if rubbed upon the hands, has a different \nflavour. \n\nIn all Switzerland are from fifteen to twenty millions of \nquarters of fruit, making eight quarters to each person, and \nmore than in any other country. It is the staple article of \nfood among the peasantry, cooked in various ways, dried and \npreserved as well as distilled. \n\nSt. Gall has a majority of Catholics, but Protestants are also \nnumerous, and they live very harmoniously together, \xe2\x80\x94 the two \nsects in a village often occupying the same church, the one in \nthe morning and the other in the afternoon. The old abbey, \nfounded in the seventh century, was long the ruling power, and \nthe cause of continual wars and dissensions till it was finally \nsuppressed by the Government in 1805.* It was the seat of \nlearning in the olden time ; and the sons of kings and emperors \nfrom all parts of Europe came to be educated by its wise monks. \nThey not only preserved the writings of others, but wrote them- \nselves what have proved the most valuable chronicles concerning \nthe middle ages, and also the ancient ballad-poetry of Germany, \nwhich a Swiss peasant can read now, while to the most learned \nGerman philosopher they are an unknown tongue. The Ger- \n\n\n\n* We may conclude, however, that superstition is not quite extinct in this commer- \ncial community, when we read that on last Three Kings day, some boys made quite \na speculation by wheeling about on a hand-cart a hogshead oiholy water, which they \nsold from house to house to those who believed in its efficacy. \n\n\n\n254 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nman of Germany became so Latinized that very little of the \noriginal language remained, while in Switzerland it retained \nmore of its original simplicity, and for this reason is still more \nlike the Saxon. \n\nThe city looks very city-like, the houses standing thickly, and \nevery place open to the sun and air is filled with the bleacliing \nwebs. There are many quaint features, yet over all a modem \nair, and also an appearance of equality among the people, very \npleasant to observe in a manufacturing town. Toil does not \ndepress the lower classes, and anxiety does not mark the counte- \nnances of those who calculate and grow rich. \n\nIt is strange to see the little cantons of Switzerland defying \nall the powers of the Yatican, and subjecting her priesthood to \nthe law, and obhging monks and cloisters to give up their pos- \nsessions, unless they will make a proper use of them ; while in \nAustria, even the Emperor himself fears the mere shadow to \nwhich the See of Rome is reduced, and the most senseless mum- \nmeries of the dark ages are still practised as the means of salva- \ntion by the Imperial court and people. \n\nIn Rome there is a church to every hundred people, and a new \none erected almost every year, and the want, misery, ignorance, \nand degradation are beyond what any human pen can describe. \nIn ancient Rome there were fifty public baths where now there \nis not one ; and in all Italy there is the same destitution of \neverything which modern civilization demands for the physical, \nmoral, and mental health of the people. The King of Naples \ndied last year of a disease which had no other cause than the \nfilth by which he was surrounded, and thousands are dying in \nItaly of the same. Whilst it is confined to the poor, they heed \nit not; but palaces become at length infected, or rather infested, \nand then they begin to ask what can be done to avert it ? If \n\n\n\nST. GAiL. 255 \n\nhalf the money which has been spent on palaces and churches \nhad been devoted to aqueducts and other means of cleanliness, \nthrones and steeples would not now be tottering as they are to \ntheir foundations, and dukes and princes fleeing everywhere for \nlife. To people who are never troubled with human sympathy, \nthese will be very revolting statements, and those who travel \nonly to admire architecture and fine paintings, will think it un- \npardonable to expose what is beneath. But it is becoming \nimpossible for the most sentimental travellers to spend even a \nday in any city in Italy for any purpose whatever, for these rea- \nsons and others which it is impossible to expose. \n\nWe read with horror of those who fall by the sword, and all \nthe terrors of the battle-field, but the horrors of hospitals are \nfar greater. \n\nAmong soldiers in time of peace, full six per cent, are on the \nsick list, and among from three to four hundred thousand men, \none hundred thousand are disabled by illness. While among other \nclasses of men only one in ninety or a hundred die on an average, \namong military men in barracks forty or fifty die out of the \nsame period of fife I In the Crimean war the French lost eighty \nthousand men, but one-fifth died in consequence of bad food and \nunhealthy arrangements. \n\nWe have heard Americans in Europe deplore that they had \nnot a more stable government 1 and people who travel in \nSwitzerland, and happen to see a cantonal election, go away \nto say there is nothing but anarchy and confusion, and those who \nrule are ignorant boors and noisy democrats. \n\nThe governments of continental Europe have not shown them, \nselves very stable during the last year. While every empire, \ndukedom, and principality has felt as being shattered by an \nearthquake, not a nerve of Smtzerland has trembled. There \n\n\n\n256 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nhas not been a single fear of insurrection or revolt from her \npopulace. \n\nThe quiet of despotic governments is numbness and stupidity, \ninstead of obedience and content ; but they are not only stupid, \nindolent, and depressed, but immoral, wicked, poor, and sickly. \nThe clamour and flourish of trumpets at a Swiss or American \nelection are only safety valves, and the surest preservations of \npermanent order. When they have spoken and clamoured, the \neffervescence is departed, and any sort of a whirlpool is better \nthan a stagnant marsh. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XYII. \n\n\n\nAPPENZELL. \n\n\n\nSPIRIT OF LIBERTY \xe2\x80\x94 MURDER BY A YOUNG GIRL \xe2\x80\x94 STICKSTUBE COSTUME\xe2\x80\x94 \n\nALPS\xe2\x80\x94 AMUSEMENTS. \n\n\n\nWe have elsewhere sufficiently illustrated the heroic deeds of \n" the men of Appenzell." *\' We are a free people," has been \ntheir boast for four hundred years. They laid down their shep- \nherd\'s staff to take up arms, and when their warrior work was \nfinished they took again the simple crook and sang their songs \nas gaily as if no wilder strain had broken in upon their melody. \nAll that they knew or understood of freedom, they demanded \nand secured. When they were enjoined not to eat milk in Lent , \nit being animal food, they said they saw no sense or reason in \nsuch an injunction, and ate milk all the same. The Pope, as \nusual, knowing that it was better they should do it with his per- \nmission than without, granted it to them in 1459, jproprio motu. \nA few years later, in 1489, the Landamman obtained the con- \nsent of " His Holiness " to marry his god-daughter, by passing \na stipulated sum for dispensation. The people then decided in \ncouncil, that what was no longer a sin for the Landamman to \npurchase, should be granted to a simple citizen free ; and so in \n\n257 \n\n\n\n258 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nfuture they married without consulting the Pope or Church, \nand nobody undertook to compel them to change their \ndecrees. \n\nIn 1525, Capuchins were sent among them to counteract the \ninfluence of the reformers, but they brought so much discord \nwith them, that Catholics and Protestants both wished they had \nstayed away. \n\nThose who first came were Peter Ludwig and his friend Jacob. \nA boy met them in the forest, and their dress was so strange \nthat he thought they were not men, and cried for help. They \nsaid to him, " We are holy fathers, and do no man any harm." \nHe fell on his knees and cried, "Oh, holy devils, I pray you, \ntouch me not.\'^ \n\nBut the two religions were the means of dividing them into two \nparts, though in the whole canton there were not twenty square \nleagues. Appenzell is entirely enclosed in the canton St, Gall, \nlooking as if it were fastened by a button to the banks of the \nriver. It must be distinguished, not only by the name Appen- \nzell, but the two divisions as " outer " and " inner Rhoden," the \nword Rhode meaning district. They were threatened with civil \nwar on account of the dissensions concerning religious tenents, \nwhen some, more wise and prudent than the rest, suggested \nthat it was better to divide the land. So, like the patriarchs of \nold, they said, *\' You go to the east, and I will go to the west ; \nand there will be no more strife between your herdsmen and my \nherdsmen." So it was agreed. They met in council on the 1st \nof August, 159*1, and arranged the separation so quickly and \npeaceably, that on the 28th they held the election in Outer \nRhoden, which was the one set apart. They were to remain \ndivided so long as it was agreeable to both parties. Each \nRhode chooses its own \xe2\x80\xa2 Landamman and other oflBcers ; yet, \n\n\n\nAPPENZELL. 259 \n\nthere is also a common council, in which delegates from both \nmeet for the administration of common affairs. \n\nThe council-house is an old building with time-stained walls, \nand the statute-books and instruments of punishment are not less \nancient. By the side of the door is a bench, on which cruninals \nare still stretched, and over it an iron collar, which is the yoke \nstill worn by stiffnecked offenders. \n\nOn the walls of the council chamber are painted the heroic \nbattles of the early period of their history. Underneath is the \nbastinado, which is also still retained among their means of pun- \nishmg the guilty. The person to whom it is appUed must lie \nupon his face, with the arms stretched as for swimming, and \nwhen bound hand and foot, the " raw hide " begins its work. \nThe little cages, like those of a meuagerie, are also here, placed \nimmediately under the roof, with a narrow opening, through \nwhich air and food in very small quantities are admitted. It is \nnot possible to stand upright in them, or to he at full length. \nWhen it was remarked to the cicerone, " They must soon be \nbrought to confession here," she said, " Yes, in winter f for no \nwarmth can come to them the coldest winter day. Yet no one \nis kept there after confessing his guilt ; but one might be \ntempted to confess to a crime he never committed in order to \nget out. \n\nWe have heard of an instance of endurance, in one of those \ncages, which j&nally revealed a sad story of crime, and shows the \npower of fashion among the simplest people, and that diamonds \nand rubies are not the only tempters of the frail and fair. \n\nIt is only ten years ago, that two young girls were retuniing \nfrom a festival in the city to their homes, to reach which they \nmust pass a lonely meadow. They had been friends from child- \nhood, and nothing had disturbed the pleasant relationship which \n\n\n\n260 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nbound them together. The one was beautiful, but she was poor \nand it is a proverb in Appenzell, " that every maiden to win a \nlover early must have a silver chain." Her beauty, and perhaps \nher worth, had already won a lover, but still she was not con- \ntent. Her companion was every way better dressed than her- \nself, and had also a silver chain, which she coveted. Suddenly \npretending to discover that she had lost her paternoster, and \nwould return to find it, they both hastened back to a pool which \nthey had passed, and while both were stooping to search eagerly, \nAnna Maria quickly seized her unsuspicious friend, tore the \nchain from her neck, and pushed her into the water, where she \nwas drowned. \n\nThe corpse was found the same day, and when it was prepared \nfor burial, Anna Maria stood with others around the bier a \nmourner, and joined in the prayers I But soon the chain at- \ntracted suspicion, and as one sin prepares the way for another, \nshe said, " her lover had given it to her." That a man might \nhave committed the murder did not seem improbable, and for \nsuch a reason ; but that a girl nineteen years of age should \nhave been guilty of so horrible a deed did not seem possible to \nany human mind. \n\nThe lover was arrested, and experienced the tortm\'es of the \nbastinado without confessing the deed, and was then confined \nin the most dismal of the cages, where he submitted patiently to \nthe ordeal, but remained silent. \n\nAnna Maria was free, and came often to Appenzell, always \ngoing to the prison to inquire for her lover. One evening some \nof her young companions returned with her home, but she spoke \nnot all the way till they reached the place of the murder, when \nshe stopped, and turning pale exclaimed, " See there !" They \nlooked, but saw nothing. This again excited suspicion ; but \n\n\n\nAPPENZELL. 261 \n\nOthers thought it natural that she should be troubled and see \nghosts, though not herself guilty. \n\nThe woman who had charge of the prison felt more than sus- \npicion from her manner when she called to inquire, and one day- \nsaid to her bluntly, \'\' You committed the murder yourself" She \nwas white as marble, and trembled like the aspen. On being \nclosely questioned afterwards, she confessed, and gave herself up \nfor trial. \n\nNo long process was necessary to establish her guilt, and ac- \ncording to the lav/ of the land she was condemned to death. \nWhen this was communicated to her by the clergyman she re- \nfused to listen, and said, "I will not die." How httle she had \nthought of death when depriving another of life ! Her father \nand sister prayed for mercy, but ninety voices had confirmed the \nsentence, and only six were heard in favour of pardon. There \nwas no more hope ; she must die. \n\nWhen they came to lead her before the judge, she threw her- \nself upon the ground, and screeching and screaming repeated, \n" I will not die, I will not die 1" Four men dragged her to the \ncouncil chamber, and when the sentence was read, her cries \ndrowned the voice of the speaker. The pastor came to her, but \nshe cast him off, and they were obliged to bind her on a sled to \ntake her to the place of execution. When there, she kicked and \nstrove, and bent her head to her breast, to avoid the fatal \nstroke, so that they despaired of bringing her head to the block, \nand sent to the council, yet in session, to know what they should \ndo. The answer was, " that they must finish the work." The \nshort respite had encouraged her to hope, and when she heard \nthe words of the messenger, her screams became more frightful \nthan before, declaring she would not die. \n\nAt length a grey-headed man suggested that they tie her long \n\n\n\n262 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nhair to a stake, which they succeeded in doing, and the death- \nblow fell. ^\' It was finished," indeed. \n\nA few years ago, a young girl was condemned for child mur- \nder, and the nuns of the Franciscan convent begged permission \nto receive her, and lead her in the way of repentance and truth, \ninstead of putting her to death, and it was finally decided to \ngrant their prayer, which we cannot help thinking was " the \nbetter way." \n\nIf a young girl accuses a young man of being the father of \nher child, he is put in one cage, to produce confession, and she \nin another, to compel her to tell the truth. If he insists that \nher statement is false, the oath is administered to her, and if it \nis proved that she has slandered him, he takes the oath of puri- \nfication, and is restored to citizenship and respectability. If her \nwords are proved, he can sign a paper promising to marry her, \nand is free. \n\nAppenzell is the only canton where the Kiltgang is not the \ncustom, and the guilty man is here more thoroughly abused \nthan in Glarus. He cannot even vote at election, or rather, \nwould not dare appear there, as the hissing and scorn would be \nunendurable. The maiden must wear a cap, and cannot put the \nsilver pin in her hair. \n\nIn the olden time, "the men of Appenzell" were a rude and \nquarrelsome people. A game at fisticuffs, authorized by law, \nwas an every day amusement, and death often the consequence. \nMen wore schlagrings on their httle fingers, and no one dared \ngo alone from village to village. Till within half a century the \nlaw existed, that he who killed another in this way, " could not \ndrink wine nor cider nor take part in public festival." \n\nHe who committed intentional murder could be pardoned \nwith consent of the relatives ; but must never meet them in any \n\n\n\nAPPENZELL. 263 \n\npublic place, or pass any road where they were iu the habit of \ngoing. He must take the murderous weapon in one hand, and \na candle in the other, and go to church in funeral procession, \nkneel there and at the grave, and pray three times to God for \n[\xe2\x80\xa2ardon. He must furnish two hundred candles for mass-service, \nand set a cross where the relations wished, and pay them a sum \nof money prescribed by law, and sit always apart in church. \n\nThe election ceremonies are nearly the same as in Glarus, and \nthe cantonal colours black and white. The salary of the Land- \namman in Outer Rhoden is forty dollars, and of the Mayor six. \n\nWhen we passed the house of the Landamman, a young gu\'l \nin the diligence pointed to it with great reverence and pride. It \nwas a large wooden domicile, looking just then very nice and \nnew, with bright shingles and clapboards. Opposite was a \nlarge orchard and a pretty summer-house of pink stucco outside, \nand white painted window frames, all looking as if some new \nfortune had come to the possessor, and he was enlarging his \nborders accordingly, yet without ostentation or display. \n\nThe houses stand dotted about on the hill-sides and green- \nswards, having often, upon the old ones, the date of their erec- \ntion, figures made with the shingles on the roof, and various \nornaments, verses from the Bible, pauatings, sentimental phrases, \nand gilded points and crosses. But the new ones are plain and \ncomfortable. Kowhere, perhaps, is neatness more truly the \ncharacteristic of the people than in Appenzell. \n\nWe did not forget to visit the stickstuhe of the woman we met \non the railway, and found her in the midst of her maidens, some \ntwenty-five, seated round the room, with their frames fastened \nto a light three-legged stand of convenient height, which they \ncarry about with them as easily as a parasol or roll of embroi- \ndery. The muslin is pulled tight over one frame, and fastened \n\n\n\n264 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nby a loop shutting on to the other, which we have often seen \nused, but without the stand. Oh ! the beautiful flowers, figures, \nanimals, landscapes, everything that artist can invent, which \nappear at the command of their fingers ! Why, are they not \nas truly evidences of genius as those which are made by a brush \non canvas ? I^ever did we see anything more wonderful than \nthe designs which were furnished them, and the skill is not less \nmarvellous which perfects them \xe2\x80\x94 so graceful, delicate and true.* \nAll the day, all the evening, all the year, they bend over the \nlittle frame ; but we should think it would not take years to \nmake them blind. \n\nThe woman, as we stated, gives each twenty sous a day and \nboard, and finds the muslin. She, of course, has all the risk \nand trouble of selling. But there was no air of poverty about \nthem, and they looked very cheerful and in good health. Be- \nsides these, many daughters work at home, and at almost every \nwindow we see them, and also in the gardens, under the trees, \nor in the street, always with the frames in their hands. \n\nIn Outer Rhoden there are twelve thousand persons engaged \nin the different departments of the manufacture of muslins and \nembroideries. The bright coloured papers which are laid under \nthe corners of the handkerchiefs, and beneath the collars and \nsleeves, to exhibit the pattern, are also manufactured here ; and \nin the Hotel Hechtj the ancient costume, in all its details, is \nexhibited by a woman, who evidently wears it for this purpose. \nThe skirt is purple woollen stuff, looking as if it had been quilled, \nthe little plaits commencing at the waist and reaching to the \nhem, without losing their form. The bodice, bright scarlet \nsilk, pointed before and behind, shows a white muslin chemisette \n\n* It is true that many artists are employed in furnishing the designs for this work, \nwho would otherwise, perhaps, be employed with the easel. \n\n\n\nAPPENZELL. 265 \n\nunder the arms and over the bosom. The sleeves are short and \nfull, and above the elbow are broad hair bracelets with silver \nclasps. Around the bodice is also a border of silver ; and the \nsilver chain, coveted by all maidens, is upon her neck, and con- \nsists of many fine strings, making more than an inch in breadth ; \none of the same kind passes under the arm, linking the points \nof the embroidered collar. Her cap is also of bright scarlet \nlike the bodice, trimmed with various ornaments in lace and \nsilver. One ^\\\'ould think from the description, that it must look \nfinical, but it is remarkably neat and pretty, and on a young \npretty maiden must be charming. She who wears it has evi- \ndently been "handsome in her day," but is now stricken in \nyears, and very pale. But she understands well the duties of \nher vocation. She has a word to say to everybody, and pre- \nsents herself upon all occasions, with a sort of theatrical manner, \nwhich seems to say, "Do you observe ?" and it is certainly \nworth while to take one dinner at her table, to be served by so \ngracious a hostess, and observe both her air and costume. \n\nIn the embroidery rooms, also, they retain some peculiarities, \na sort of uniform ; but the people one meets in the streets daily \nare in the fashion now universal. A traveller, who wrote more \nthan half a century ago, says at that time the men wore hosen, \nwhich left a wide space between the top and the vest ; and when \nhe entered the hotel, where many people were assembled on \nelection day, dressed in the modern style, he saw all the people \nlooking at him and laughing. Fearing something was wrong in \nhis attire, which he could not see, he asked what excited them \nto such mirth, and they said ; " Oh, it was too funny ; such a \ncostume !" Small clothes are sometimes still seen in the coun- \ntry \xe2\x80\x94 a red vest and leathern girdle, long stockings, and shoes \nwith silver buckles. \n\n12 \n\n\n\n266 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nIn different years, from the middle of the sixteenth to the \nnineteenth century, we find various laws concerning dress, \nendeavouring to restrain extravagance. But custom is stronger \nthan law, and all enactments which infringe upon personal \nliberty were constantly evaded. \n\nServants were scarcely known in famihes till 1830, but when \nembroidery became so common, servants were necessary, as the \ndaughters could not perform the labours of the household and \nthose of the needle too. \n\nAs everywhere else in Switzerland, the menials are from \nSuabia ; but they are generally treated like those of the family, \nand have the same Hfe. Their wages are very small, being only \nas much for a week as the embroiderers receive for a day. \n\nAppenzell is a miniature Switzerland in itself. The prairies \nare very few, and the mountains among the grandest of the \nsnowy Alps. The whole of Inner Rhoden is covered with shep- \nherds and their herds ; and the hum of industry in the canton \nhas in no wise drowned the wild melody of the mountaineer. \nHere one may listen to the Ranz des Vackes in its primitive \npathos ; and the wild ragiisa is hummed with no diminution of \nits power by the maidens of the valley. \n\nThe dance has been long forbidden in Oatcr Rhoden, except \nat the four principal festivals of the year ; and it is on these \noccasions that the young people meet, and wooers have an \nopportunity to sing then? loves. When they are betrothed, the \nyoung man and maiden can walk together any time in the day \nbefore evening, not arm in arm, but with the little fingers locked \ntogether ; and each young maiden has some notes of a ragusa, \nwhich she sings when she is abroad, that her lover instantly re- \ncognizes as a signal to join her, if he is at leisure. \n\nAll gambling is also forbidden, and money won at play is not \n\n\n\nAPPENZELL. 267 \n\nallowed to be retained. No person is allowed to invest money \nin lotteries at home or abroad, and no journal is allowed to \nadvertise a lottery. \n\nNo innkeeper can permit a dance in his house of young per- \nsons unless their parents are present. For all those offences a \nfine is the penalty ; but to avoid them, people go over the \nborders, a distance which is not very far, and dance and play, \nperhaps with more injurious consequences. Suicide, madness, \nand melancholy, are more common than among the Inner \nKhodens, who are much poorer, and live not half so well. The \nceremonies of the Protestant Church are not interesting except \nto those whose hearts are concerned ; and when so many \nrestraints are imposed, without a culture that elevates the mind \nand soul above self-indulgences, the effects are evil, and not good. \n\nAmong the Catholics, a little money purchases the pardon of \nall their sins, and evidently satisfies their consciences, whether it \nshould or not, and they dance all care away. It is a subject \nworthy of theologian and philosopher, and should have a good \ndeal more consideration from Christians than they have ever \ngiven it. \n\nWe often hear such reproaches against the peasantry both in \nSwitzerland and Germany from those who will live side by side \nwith them year after year without one effort to understand them \nor improve their condition. This never struck us more forcibly \nthan one evening when we went to a peasant\'s dance, and, after \nleaving them, entered the saloon of a patrician, who made the \ngreatest professions to being a Christian and a friend of liberty. \nHe sat in his elegant room, leaned back among the velvet \ncushions of his fautenil, and exclanned : "How disgusting \xe2\x80\x94 \nhow dreadfully disgusting \xe2\x80\x94 those peasant dances, their noise, \n..heir beer-drinking, and their unseemly deportment!" His cellar \n\n\n\n268 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nwas filled with the choicest of wines, and his wife dressed in silks, \nand velvets, and jewellery, to the amount of many thousand dol- \nlars. They could afford it, and there was no reason why they \nshould not indulge in all the luxuries civilization has invented. \nKot long before, they had given a ball, for which they rented a \nhotel, invited several hundred people, and gave an entertainment \nthat in all must have cost considerably more than five hundred \ndollars. A lady informed us how the peasant girls ** tried to \nget married." In the society in which she moves did she never \nsee any shnilar efforts ? I think it was the same lady who told \nus that among the higher classes, when daughters became of a \nmarriageable age, their mothers had already engaged a husband \nfor them ; and we have heard of intrigues among young ladies \nthemselves such as would not have disgraced the court of \nFrancis I. and Louis XI Y., for this same purpose of "getting \nmarried," which is so shocking among peasant girls. If, instead \nof spending five hundred dollars for a ball \xe2\x80\x94 which does not \noccur on Sunday, to be sure, but furnishes work and conversa- \ntion for many holy Sabbaths \xe2\x80\x94 one hundred had been devoted \nto a pleasant and proper festival for the poor, where their man- \nners would be improved and their character softened, would it \nnot have been a more Christian way of treating them than to call \nthem heathen, and let them alone ? In how many ways could \nfive hundred dollars benefit a peasant village, if a man really \nwished to perform a Christian duty, and to work as well as pray \nin the vineyard of the Lord ! We do not wish to condemn \ngiving balls to lords and nobles, though we think there is a bet- \nter way even for them ; but we doubt whether those who meet \nin cottages to dance and sing arc more reprehensible characters \nthan those who meet in castles. \n\nIt is the most imcomprehensible of all things, if the Bible was \n\n\n\nAPPENZELL. 269 \n\ngiven for a guide to man, that people can read it a lifetime and \nnever get one idea of Christian love and duty as exemplified on \nits pages. They read the life of Jesus of Nazareth, and scorn the \nperson who follows the most nearly his example. They profess \nto have no other enjoyment than "rehgious exercises," and ex- \nhibit not the fruits of patience, long-suffering, and kindness, but \nenvy, hatred, malice and evil-speaking. \n\nThe peasantry are forbidden to dance, and called low and \nvulgar, and beyond the reach of elevation, because they still \ndelight in so many amusements. But can anybody say what \nthey shall do in the hours they have been accustomed to devote \nto play ? They are now all taught to read, but of what use is it \nso long as there is nothing within their means upon which to \npractise the art ? Five hundred dollars, or so, would furnish one \nvillage with a library within their comprehension, which spent in \nfeasting lords and ladies is worse than wasted. \n\nThe law in the United States of America that provides for \nevery school a library, is doing infinitely more good than the \none which provides a school. Interesting books excite the \nambition to learn to read them, and do away with all necessity \nfor making laws against dancing. What a new world would it \ncreate for the lonely shepherd in his cot on the mountain, to fill \nit with pleasant stories that give him food for thought, and \nawake in bun nobler aspirations. There are those who think it \nis better to let him alone to his songs, and his dreams, and his \nrovings. Alas, how little they know of the shepherd or of hu- \nmanity who come to this conclusion : and why is it that Mission \nand Bible Societies so readily spend their money for the heathen \nof other lands, while thousands are in the darkest ignorance and \nEuperstition around them, to whom they will not speak even a \nword of Christian kindness ? \n\n\n\n270 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe schools in Appenzell have been increased and improved \nwithin the last thirty years, so that they exist in every commune \nin Outer Rhoden, and the number of scholars has doubled. A \nhigh school has been endowed by private citizens at Trogen, and \nanother at Heiden ; and there are, besides, secondary schools \nfor the upper classes supported by the State. In the Catholic \nportion of the canton there are not so many, and the law does \nnot require the parents to send the children unless they choose. \nThere are two convents where girls are instructed by the nuns, \nwho have the reputation of being good and benevolent, as they \nhave also in many other places in Switzerland. \n\nThe amusements are very many among those of both religions. \nSo early as 1646, a law was made, that all should sing in \nchurch ; and that those who sang in inns, and at plays, and not \nin church, should pay a fine of twenty-five dollars. They were \nalso required to sing in schools, and the clergyman named from \nthe pulpit on Sunday what psalms should be practised during \nthe week, \n\nA society of mutual improvement was founded in 1832, a \nslight admission fee providing lectures on agriculture, art, etc. \n\nBut the shooting fetes are better attended, and date from a \nperiod unknown. From the year 1*180 to 1808, they spent in \nprizes and various fetes five thousand dollars. But fewer men \nhave gone into foreign service from Appenzell than from any \nother canton. \n\nThe first reading-room was opened in It 25, and they are now \nvery general ; but the variety of journals and books is not very \nextensive. In some villages, museums are connected with them, \nand natural history illustrated. \n\nThe weddings of the olden time were very sumptuous affairs. \nWe read of one which took place in 1651, when the bridal train \n\n\n\nAPPENZELL. 271 \n\nconsisted of thirty horses, and ninety-six guests were present ; \nthe whole costing about thirty dollars ! and one in 1654, at \nwhich were fifty pairs and two hundred and sixty-two guests ; \nand one in 1685, where were four hundred and thirty-three \nguests. Then the law interfered, and ordained that no bride \nshould invite more than eighty persons, or have more than eight \nbridesmaids. \n\nNow the law says nothing about it, and the custom is pre- \nvailing more and more to have the ceremony performed in a \nquiet manner, and take a journey or make a visit. Wreaths \nand flowers are still worn, and the bridesmaid sews a bouquet to \nthe left side of the skirt of the bride, which costs her nearly a \ndollar. \n\nThose who wish to marry must obtain the consent of the \nLandamman. \n\nBaptism is performed in church, and the baby is arrayed in \nall the fine swaddling-clothes it can carry. The ceremony is \nseldom put off more than three days, as they fear it will die \nunbaptized ; and many do not allow the infant to He upon the \nmother\'s bosom till it has been thus purified. The godfather \nstands on one side of the font and the godmother upon the \nother. They exchange bows, when the godfather hands the \nchild to the pastor, on a cushion, who holds it over the water, \nwhich is always warm, and wets its brow three times, \'\'in the \nname of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost." \n\nAmong the superstit^\'ous, they rejoice when an infant dies, \nand say, " Now we have an angel in heaven." Often they send \nfor a priest to say mass, instead of the doctor to cure the sick one. \n\nThe election is the great national /e^e, to which all come, men, \nwomen, and children ; and the military review and kirchwdh are \nalmost as widely celebrated. \n\n\n\n272 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nA peculiar custom in Outer Ilhoden, on the 17th of February, \nis to mount the trunk of a tree upon a wagon ornamented with \nflowers and garlands. An old man and woman, clothed in the \nancient Swiss costume, and carrying little bells, precede the \ncortege, walking in the gravest manner. The king of the day is \nseated upon the tree, and makes gracious salutations to the \nmultitude, while the whole pass through the length of the street \nand back again, when they end the festival at an inn. \n\nAt carnival, the fires are kindled on all the hills, and Christ- \nmas is celebrated with great parade. \n\nThere are several bathing establishments for strangers, and at \nHeinrichshad, one of the largest in Switzerland, are elegant \nsalons, reading-rooms, and dancing-halls, surrounded by a beau- \ntiful country, affording delightful promenades. \n\nWhen we left the pleasant land of Appenzell, it was to go \nsouthward, by the railroad to Chur ; but in order to reach the \nstation we were obliged to take a post-chaise to Alstacten. \nSeeing the horse nearly harnessed that was to take us, we went \nout and stood by the carriage. Just then a neighbour appeared, \nto ask the owner of the vehicle if his daughter could not ride to \nAlstacten in the same carriage with the lady, as she wished to \nvisit her aunt. There was much talk and hesitation before we \nunderstood the cause, but finally the father appealed to us, and \nsaid, " Sure it will not annoy you, she is a young girl, and there \nis plenty of room ?" We answered most heartily, *\' Indeed we \nhad much rather she would go than not ; to have some one to \ntalk with is far pleasanter than to sit silent." He ran immedi- \nately to call her, and she soon appeared, and looked so exactly \nlike a cousin we left among the Green Mountains at home, that \nwe could almost have called her by name. She was a coy \nmaiden of sixteen, blond and pretty, dressed neatly in black, for \n\n\n\nAPPENZELL. 273 \n\nshe had lately lost her mother. We found her a pleasant \ntravelling companion indeed, blushing like a summer rose at \nevery remark or question, but very intelligent concerning any- \nthing by the way. \n\nOur road was through the neat villages, fruitful orchards, and \nwaving harvests of this prim little canton, till we came to the \ntop of a hill that overlooked the valley of the Rhine. What a \ncontrast is suddenly presented. The sky has become, as it \nseems, instantaneously black with clouds, the thunder rolls, and \nthe lightning flashes among the dark gorges which open in the \nopposite banks, while the dense forests upon the hillsides look \nas if a fire had just imparted to them its scathing hues, without \ndepriving a branch or twig of its rich clothing. We realize the \nfulness of the expression " blackness of darkness." It is strange \nand fearful beyond description. Whilst gazing upon it, we are \nslowly descending \xe2\x80\xa2 from peak to peak, surrounded by woods \nwhich would present the same appearance to a distant observer, \nwhile the rain pours in torrents, making a road, never safe, \nperilous at every step. But our young companion has seen it a \nhundred times, and heeds it no more than a gentle shower. \nThese are to them every-day scenes, the pastime of their Alpine \nskies and snowy heights. To us it has been ever like a vision \nof another world, a glimpse of something terrific beyond the \nlimits of mortal vision. \n\nSoon the clouds were dispelled, and the sun shone out in \nsplendour. On the railroad our way was beneath the bold, \nfrowning cliffs, whether on the banks of the Rhine or the stormy \nWallen See : though not so frightful in sunshine as in tempest, \nthey present some of the most peculiar and grandest features of \nSwiss scenery. If we could enjoy but one, we would rather \ntrace the Rhine from Constance to its source than trace any \n\n12* \n\n\n\n274 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nother portion of its way to the sea. The castle-crowned peaks \nhave an interest which these wild, untenanted cliffs have not, \nbut they are few in comparison, and have not that solemn \nimpressing sublimity which becomes every moment more awful \ntill we approach the Via Mala and the eternal snows which \ngave birth to the \'\' father of waters." \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XYIII. \n\n\n\nGLARUS. \n\n\n\nSCENE IN STREET\xe2\x80\x94 OLD FAMILIES \xe2\x80\x94 2WINGLIUS \xe2\x80\x94 BROTHERHOOD\xe2\x80\x94 SCHABZIE- \nGER CHEESE \xe2\x80\x94 ALPIN ETEA \xe2\x80\x94 CALICO \xe2\x80\x94 INCIDENT ON RAILWAY \xe2\x80\x94 ELECTION \xe2\x80\x94 \nSUPERSTITIONS \xe2\x80\x94 OLD LAWS AND CUSTOMS. \n\nNot since we left New England have we heard such a hooting and \ntooting, such a horn-blowing and trumpeting, such a snapping of \nwhips and singing of songs, as in this old town of Glarus. It \nis by no means a noise which indicates rudeness and uproar, but \nmerely the exuberance of youthful spirits, where people do not \nconsider the State in danger from allowmg " boys to be boys," \ninstead of keeping them under the surveillance of a police, lest \na little excess of mirth should increase, and become rebelUon, \nand end in revolution ! We are reminded of the words of one \nof their own poets \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nOh Lustgesang, Oh Hirtensang ! \nWie schallest Du so schon, \nDurch wonnevollen Sennenklang! \nHerab von griinen Hoh\'n ! \nIch frag\' Euch alle, stolze Laader, \nHabt Ihr so siissen Jubelsang ? \nNein, nein, nein, nein, das habt Ihr nicht, \nEuch fehit der Freiheit susses Licht ! \n\n276 \n\n\n\n276 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nTo translate this would be to spoil it, but the sentiment is, \n"Why are the pleasure \' songs,\' and \'shepherd songs\' here \nso thrilling and so beautiful, from the green heights of the \nSennhut to the valley beneath. All ye proud lands I ask, hare \nyou festal songs like these? No, no, no, no ; because you \nbreathe not the air of the free I" \n\nThe wordless notes of the Ranz des Vackes are said to be no- \nwhere so thrilling and musical as upon the hills of Glarus and \nAppenzell, and nowhere was freedom more bravely won, and by \nnone more sacredly preserved. \n\nThe day in their heroic history of which they are most proud, \nis that which saw the battle of Ncifles, April 9, 1588, which \nleft one hundred and eighty three Austrian chevaliers on the \nfield, and two thousand five hundred soldiers, their own loss \nbeing only fifty-five. The enemy had come upon them unawares, \nobtaining an entrance at the gates which protected the valley \non the north, by treachery, and pouring down upon the as- \ntonished people came near, crushing them before they had time \nto seize their clubs. But three hundred and fifty defended the \nnarrow passage for five hours against the whole Austrian army, \nand by that time messengers had reached the town, when the \nLandamman collected a few shepherds, and met the retreating \nparty at Nafles, where some ascended the heights, and pelted \nthem with stones, which so threw them into confusion they were \neasily put to rout on the plain. Austrians then, as now, knew \nno other way, but to \'\'march" and "wheel" and "face about" \naccording to rule, and, therefore, then as now, could be very \neasily wheeled to destruction by a little ingenuity. \n\nAppenzell had the aid of the Glarners in throwing off the \nyoke of the bailiffs, and on all occasions, when soldiers were \nnecessary, they were ready with their fortunes and their lives. \n\n\n\nGLAEUS. 2Y7 \n\nDuring four hundred and ten years no foreign army had set \nfoot upon their soil, when it fell into the hands of the French \nin It 98, and they lost all their possessions, and in the course of \nfive months five battles were fought between the French and \nAustrians within their limits. This ended their experience of \nwars, and, more fortunate than many of their neighbours, they \nhave never been torn by internal dissensions. They have had \nno trouble with the Federal Diet, and none with their own \nGovernment, as it has always been upon the broad basis of the \nutmost freedom to all. \n\nTheir constitution is curious for the liberality shown to Catho- \nlics when Protestants were a large majority ; and the two con- \nfessions live together in perfect harmony, having an equal share, \nin proportion to numbers, in all public administration, and in \nthe capital of the canton using the same church, the one in the \nmorning and the other in the afternoon. This liberality is per- \nhaps owing to the influence of one of theu- pastors, Yalentin \nTschudi, who died in 1555, and was the author of the History \nof the Reformation, and the burden of whose sermons was, \n" Live like brethren, the disciples of one Lord and Master !" \nFor many years he was a Catholic, and afterwards, inclining \ntowards the reformation, he still retained his pastoral office, per- \nforming mass in the morning, and preaching to a Protestant \ncongregation in the evening, but at all times carefully avoiding \nevery subject of controversy. To some people who remon- \nstrated against such tolerance, he said, " Do you think it impos- \nsible to be a Catholic in the morning and a reformer in the \nevening, and yet a Christian all day ?" Eventually, however, \nhe embraced the new religion in full. \n\nHe belonged to one of those iwhle families of whom we find \nso many in Switzerland, who are reverenced by the people for \n\n\n\n278 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntheir antiquity and for the noble deeds of their fathers. For \nthis reason they invest them for a series of years, perhaps for \ncenturies, with the highest offices of the State. Fastidious crit- \nics and travellers think this too aristocratic, but we see in it \nonly a proper regard to worth and a just reverence to heroes. \nThe officers are re-elected every year, or at certain periods dif- \nfering in different cantons, and they choose to select them from \nthe same family, which is not at all likely they would do if they \nwere not also worthy. \n\nChristianity was first preached in Glarus by an Irish monk, \nwho came among them in 490, and founded a convent. Which \nwas dependent upon one which he had previously established at \nSeckingen, on the Baden side of the Rhine. Subsequently, all \nthe country became subject to the abbots of this convent, except \nforty families, among which that of Tschudi was one. The pre- \nsent pastor of Glarus belongs to the same family. It is not \nnecessary to be so democratic as to discard worthy men because \nthey belong to " old families," when they themselves do not \nmake this a reason for demanding honors and emoluments. In \nthe cantons where this has been done, they are almost certainly \ndeprived of those they might otherwise have enjoyed. \n\nA Tschudi, who died in 15*12, wrote one of the best histories \nof Switzerland, and others have distinguished themselves in vari- \nous ways, proving that worth is sometimes an inheritance. The \nchildren ni the hotel, where we were, brought us their reading \nbook, which we saw was also prepared by their pastor, Tschudi. \nIt contained a good selection of prose and poetry ; and we were \na little gratified to find two or three stories of Washington and \nAmerican history side by side with those of William Tell and \nthe men of Grtitli, and the children taught to repeat them with \nalmost as much enthusiasm. \n\n\n\nGLAEUS. 279 \n\nZwinglius was pastor iu Glarus nine years, and the liberality \nand practical piety of the people may be in some measure owing \nto these elements in his teachings. In his sermons there is not \nso much of denunciation either of pope or prince as character- \nised many of those of his day, and no flattery of their subjects. \nIn his counsels are no exhortation to the selfish enjoyment of \nsohtude, or the indulgence of the spirit in dreamy Idleness, \nwhich many people flatter themselves is " communion with \nheaven," and therefore meritorious, when it is only an excuse \nfor inaction, and an escape from responsibility. What better is \nit to shut one\'s self in a closet or a church than in a monk\'s cell \nor a hermit\'s cave ; and what example or precept of Christ are \nthose following who spend their lives in the " holy delights and \njoys of meditation," instead of going forth into the world to \nmeet its trials, temptations, and sacrifices, in the spirit of Him \nwho made his examples the great sermon of his life, and carried \nit to the tables of wine-bibbers and into the halls of money- \nchangers ? We were never able to understand how it came to \nbe considered any part of the religion of Christ among Catho- \nlics or Protestants to live as hermits either by one name or \nanother. \n\nThese are thoughts, though not the words, which Zwinglius a \nthousand times uttered, and the Glarmr Volk evidently profited \nby his instructions. \n\nIt is a proverb in Switzerland, that " No Glarmr was ever \nknown to remain behind when the honour and good name of \nthe land were at stake." When they are abroad, they keep \nconstantly in remembrance that they are the representatives of \ntheir country, and must be sure to conduct themselves in such a \nmanner as to bring no reproach upon the name they bear. \n\nThey seem to think it would be a disgrace to have among \n\n\n\n280 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthem many sects, and say, "We have no Pietists, no Separa- \ntists, and few Baptists." Yet the religious feeling and sense of \nhonour are very strong ; and self-denial and sacrifice have no \nbounds when their land\'s-people are in need. If a calamity \nbefall a family or district, all contribute to remove it ; and \nhouses are everywhere being built by those who agree, one to \ndraw the wood, another the stone, a thkd to hew, a fourth to \nhammer, and all to do something till it is within the means of \nthe owner to finish. It is the same in their factories. Employer \nand employed are scarcely distinctions ; \xe2\x80\x94 they are all citizens, \nbrothers, and friends. \n\nLike those of Tessino and Graubiinden, they, too, are a wan- \ndering people. All the way from Madrid to St. Petersburg \nthey may be seen either settled as merchants or travelling as \nagents, with their calicoes, handkerchiefs, slates and tea. These \nare their especial articles of commerce. \n\nHow curiously great events spring out of trifles ! It is related \nthat in the sixteenth century some poor people in the Sernfthal \nthought the stones they found in the neighbourhood were very \nsmooth and pretty ; and without any idea that they could be \nmade useful, offered some for sale. Another person, with \nscarcely more thought, framed a piece, and used it for keeping \nhis accounts, and any little writing he had to do ; and still \nanother thought, it would make a nice table. This was the \norigin of the use of slates. Some fifty or sixty persons were \nemployed in breaking the stone from the quarry, and as many \njoiners to fit them to frames, till the commerce spread into all \nEurope. For them the business is now confined mostly to \nSwitzerland, as slate stone was discovered in other countries, \nbut their wandering commenced with these, and taught them new \nwants for themselves and new wants for the world. \n\n\n\nGLARTJS. 281 \n\nTheir next article of commerce was a kind of tea, whicli grows \nupon their hills, and which is very palatable ; and being cheaper \nthan that which comes from China, is in great demand by the \nlovers of tea who cannot afford young Hyson or Bohea. \n\nThey were once famous for all manner of little boxes, game- \nboards, and fanciful articles made of different kinds of wood, \nwhich they climbed every mountain and searched every forest to \nfind ; but they say, since America sent her beautiful woods to \nEurope, " this trade is spoiled." \n\nThey are still renowned for peculiar cheese, which is made \nnowhere else, and for which no other country seems to furnish \nthe material. It bears the distinctive name of Schahzieger \nCheese. We used to see them in Germany in the form of little \npyramids, the size of a quart measure, and the colour of sage. \nThey are very hard, and must be grated to use, the powder \nbeing sprinkled upon the butterhrod for "a relish." \n\nThe herb from which it receives its name was called originally \nzicgenklee, or kraut, and also siehenzeit, because the flavour \nchanged seven times daily ! It was knoAvn to the Greeks as a \nmedicinal plant, and was transplanted to the gardens of cloisters \nfor this reason. It is alluded to among the botanical plants of \nthe cloister garden of St. Gall in the ninth century. The first \ndefinite knowledge of the cheese dates to the fifteenth century, \nwhen the nuns of St. Gall taught the nuns of Glarus how to \nmake it. It is mentioned as one of the articles of food furnished \nby Abbot Ukich the Eighth to the army he stationed to watch \nthe enemy on the borders of Germany. \n\nIn 1464 it was ordained by the Government, " that each one \nshould make his cheese good and clean, turn it, salt it, and stamp \nhis name on the rind ;" and declared at this time to be a well- \nknown article of commerce and exported into all other lands. \n\n\n\n282 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nConrad Gessner, of Zurich, wrote in his book published in 1541, \nand dedicated to the " Grlarner Yolk," " Your people are prin- \ncipally engaged in the care of cattle and in making all kinds of \nfood from milk, among which is the schahzieger, that is known \neverywhere and deserves to be." \n\nThey bring the curds from the Sennhut in hempen bags to the \nvillage dairy, and when drained till very dry, the powdered herb \nis mixed with it by means of a sort of mill of large stones, which \ngrind it very fine, till the two have become one substance, when \nit is put in moulds to be pressed, and set in the air to dry. \nMuch care and experience are necessary to be sure that every \nprocess is rightly performed \xe2\x80\x94 when it is in the right state to \npress, to rub, to dry, and to grate ; and none but the Glarner \npeople have ever succeeded in making it exactly right. When \nthe little cheeses are ready, they are packed in boxes containing \nforty each, and sent to all the world ; and wherever we go we \nshall be happy to meet them, for they are the only Swiss cheese \nwe cordially like. \n\nIn It 14 a man taught the servant in his family and some \npoor people to spin, which was the origin of the cloth-making, \nthough for many years they sent their yarn to Zurich to be \nwoven. But now they spin it, and weave it, and print it for \nthemselves. Their grass plats are not covered with webs of \ngossamer or fine linen, but long rows of turkey-red, which look \nvery warm on a hot summer\'s day. Their calicoes, like the \nribbons of Basle, are no cheaper at the mills than a thousand \nmiles away ; from this reason they say, that "if they were, \neverybody would come to the mills to buy, and the merchants \nwould have no profit." \n\nThose who go out into the world to make a little fortune, \noften cojie home to spend it in the old homestead ; and though \n\n\n\nGLARUS. 283 \n\nadding a little to their comforts and luxuries, make no display- \nthat contrasts unpleasantly with those around. They have a \nthoroughly upright, sensible, respectable look, which would \nattract the attention of the most ordinary observer. We hap- \npened to see half the town one day \xe2\x80\x94 indeed, half the canton \xe2\x80\x94 \nfirst at one station, and then at another, on a fete occasion, and \nthought we had never seen so many fine faces ; and the friendly \ngreetings prompted us to exclaim : " Are they all brothers and \nsisters and cousins here ?" and they were not less friendly to a \nstranger. \n\nWe were some miles from the station where we had stopped, \nwhen we discovered that our " guide-book" was left behind. A \nlady, with a face we should notice among a thousand, and never \nforget, seeing us look for something, kindly asked what we had \nlost. On hearing, she said : "But you can get it by telegraph- \ning ; ask the conducteur to send for it." " But do you think it \nwould be of any use ? there were hundreds of people there, and \nno person would know to whom it belonged, and there was uo \nname in it." The conductor appearing at that moment, we told \nhim our calamity, and he said : " But you should not be so \ncareless ; there is no telegraph for miles yet ;" and went along. \nBut soon he came back, and asked the address to which it would \nbe sent, still repeating : \'\' You should take care of your things ; \nhow do you expect to get a book where there is such a crowd \nof people ?" His words were rather harsh, but his manners \nwere not ; yet we had little hope of seeing the book, though two \ngentlemen kindly assured us, "There was no doubt of it; nobody \nwould touch it." \n\nThe incident had introduced us to the friendly lady, and we \nscarcely regretted the loss with such a \'gain. She was one of \nthose whom nature produces now and then, and to whom all the \n\n\n\n284 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nart and polish of courts would not add a charm. She had never \nseen the world, and knew nothing of airs and graces, but these \nwould not have made her more refined, and might have detracted \nfrom her loveliness, and taught her that it was vulgar to be \nfrank and unsuspicious. Not often in a lifetime have we expe- \nrienced such genuine kindness or been so won by native grace \nand beauty. \n\nThe next morning the red " guide-book " walked mto our room \nin the hands of one of those black-eyed, red-cheeked Swiss \nofficials, and we asked, "What is to pay?" He said, "No- \nthing," and doffed his cap. "But nothing for the telegraph or \nthe trouble ?" " Nothing." The conductor had given it to him, \nand told him to bring it to me. This was all he knew. The \npleasant man had scolded us for our carelessness, and rewarded \nus in this way. We shall be in no danger of forgetting either \nthe one deed or the other. \n\nThe hum of the factory has not silenced the shepherd\'s song ; \nand the Alps are still the principal dependence of the people, \nbut are now chiefly private property, yet subject to general laws. \nOnly so many cattle can be kept upon a certain space, and per- \nsons are appointed to count them and attend to the clearing of \nthe pastures. Every Senn is bound by oath to give the number \ncorrectly. No one is allowed to have a great flock of sheep to \nthe injury of the wild hay, and no one is allowed to begin cut- \nting it before August. This is to prevent accidents to those in \nthe valleys, who must receive notice of the time, because it \ncomes tumbling down from the heights with such force, that \npersons may be killed or seriously injured if they do not keep \nout of the way. Those who cut it are obliged to fasten them- \nselves to the cliffs with hooks or cramping irons, by which they \nnold with one hand and use the sickle with the other, and in \n\n\n\nGLAEDS. 285 \n\nthis way they gather a hundred pounds a day, where neither \ngoat nor chamois would think of browsing. \n\nThe ceremonies of election day are the same as we have seen \nin Canton Uri, with slight variations ; and we could not expect \nany great bribery or corruption to be used in obtaining an office, \nthe emoluments of which amount to barely one hundred and fifty \ndollars a year. This is all the Landamman receives, and the \ntreasurer seventy dollars. The whole expenses of the Govern- \nment of the canton for a year amount to six hundred dollars. \n\nThe people assemble on the second Sunday in May ; and no \nman who is eighteen thinks of staying at home on an occasion \nwhen he is to show that he is one of the sovereigns of the land. \nThe streets are filled as with a procession, and they are as ear- \nnest talking of "the candidates" and the new road or tax, or \nwhatever is to be voted upon, as if the whole nation was put up \nat auction. The benches are placed upon the square in the form \nof an amphitheatre, exactly as they were at the first election \never held in the canton. The ringmg of bells is the signal for \nthe procession to form, when the trumpeter takes the lead, and \nthe Landweibel follow with sceptre of silver and sword. Their \nmantles are red, with a stripe of black behind, and their sense \nof importance not less than that of the chamberlains of the King. \nWhen the officers arrive, all the people rise and uncover their \nheads. The oath of office is then repeated by Landamman and \nStatthalter, when the assembly is called upon to do the same. \nEvery man holds up his fore-finger while the formula is read, and \nwhen it is finished, with bare head and finger * still raised, re- \npeats the following words : " That which has been read to me, \n\n* The reader will remember, that in the case mentioned in Brunswick in " Peasant \nLife in Germany," when the fingers fell, the witness felt at liberty to swerve from the \ntruth. In both cases, to hold it uprightly is an oath of fi delity. \n\n\n\n286 \n\n\n\nTHE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\n\n\nand which my office, condition, and country\'s oath require, I \nhave understood plainly and fully. I swear to live for them in \nall truth and fidelity. This I swear so truly as I pray, \' God \nme to help.\' " The Catholics add, " And the Holy "Virgin.\'\' \nThis is said by all in a half tone ; but as soon as the last word \nis uttered, a quick and earnest expression of assent, as with one \nvoice, goes through the assembly. \n\nThe voting is by raising the hand, though there are eight \nor ten thousand persons present. No proposition can be con- \nsidered which has not been presented to the council a month in \nadvance. \n\nWhoever speaks, begins his address in the following manner : \n" Highly respected Sir Landamman, highly respected, highly \nhonoured gentlemen, high and worthy pastors, trustworthy, free, \nand beloved countrymen." \n\nIn front of the platform a place is always left for boys, that \nthey may be solemnly impressed with the duties of citizens, and \nthey evidently enjoy the privilege, and attend like those who are \nby and by to share the honours and responsibilities. \n\nIf it rains on election day, messengers are sent to say it will \nbe deferred. If a storm comes suddenly, they finish only the \nimportant business, though they often stand hours in a pelting \nrain, to settle all questions ; so jealous are they of sovereign \nrights ! \n\nUsually there is remarkable order ; but sometimes storms of \nwords arise, more frightful than the clouds furnish, which the \nsubjects of despotism think an indication of the evil tendencies \nof liberty, but at which an American would only be amused. \nWhen people are permitted " to speak their minds," there is no \nsmothering of wrath, and those who are defeated always have \nthe hope and consolation of being the victors next time. \n\n\n\nGLAKUS. 287 \n\nA pastor in 1^65 preached a sermon, censuring severely \nvarious customs and practices, which he thought unworthy of \nsuch a people. It was received very kindly, but a clergyman in \nZurich, to whom it was lent, caused it to be printed, and this \nexcited the indignation of the whole land. The good pastor \nwas called the betrayer of his country, and summoned before \nthe council to answer for his sins. As he appeared, he was met \nwith execrations ; but when he arose to make his defence, his \nvoice was so gentle, and his words so earnest and kind, that \nthey vrere softened, and before he finished, they cried out, that \nhe was right, and just, and good. \n\nA Landamman in 1*Z15 was denounced as false to his coun- \ntry, because he had defended his brother, whom he believed to \nhave been wrongfully accused. But when he appeared before \nthem, and in all honour stated the whole case and showed that \nhe would have been verily guilty, if fear of the people had led \nhim to punish an innocent man, because he was his relative, they \nexonerated him, and collected a sum of money for the slandered \nbrother. \n\nThese incidents show that an excited popular assembly may \nbe controlled by reason and truth, calmly and seriously presented. \n\nOne of the old statutes ordained that a man who married \n\'two wives should be bound hand and foot, and thrown into the \nriver, to " drown his false heart." \n\nIf fruit-trees were planted so that the branches hung over \nanother man\'s field, he could have all the apples he could reach \nwith his hands and with hooks. \n\nChildren under sixteen cannot marry mthout the consent of \nparents, but after that age may do as they please. Children \nwho are forced to marry against their will, can be released by \nlaw. \n\n\n\n288 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nBetrothed persons must marry within three months. A \nwoman who runs away from her husband, and returns without \nbeing invited, is assailed by all the boys, who assemble before \nthe house, and serenade her with cat noises, calling her out, and \nobliging her to depart, escorted by their music. \n\nA man who is guilty of adultery is branded by public opinion \nas a forger or bigamist is elsewhere, and not eligible to any \npublic office during the whole of his life, which under such a \nGovernment is the greatest punishment which can be inflicted. \nThe man who breaks his promise of betrothal, or in any way \nbetrays a woman to mortification and shame, is heaped with \nthe same scorn as women receive elsewhere. The w^oman who \nis betrayed is also censured, but the man is henceforth an out- \ncast. How curious to find in this one little corner of the earth \nthe law and custom of the whole civilized w^orld reversed 1 The \nconsequence is, that the falsehood and crime so common else- \nw^here are here unknown. If a girl allows herself to be ruined \nby a stranger in the canton over whom their laws and customs \nhave no power, she is placed in the pillory an hour, with a straw \nwreath on her head, and then banished for three years. The \nillegitimate children are not so many as one in a hundred of the \nbirths ; and these occur not among their own people. \n\nIn some places the superstitions are still many. The crow \nand the woodpecker are evil omens ; and witches have lost none \nof their power. Thor and Woden were evidently the gods of \nthose who once inhabited the land ; and remnants of the ancient \nmythology are still to be traced in the credulity of the ignorant. \nTo sit upon a house where one is sick will bring death. Who- \never meets a white chamois will die. The blossoming of the \nnightshade, the striking of the clock when the bells ring, are \ntokens of evil ; but if one has money in his pocket when he first \n\n\n\nGLAKUS. 289 \n\nhears the cuckoo smg in the spring, he will have money all the \nyear. \n\nHunting and fishing are free, except for the chamois, and \nwith some restrictions for seasons when game is not good. \n\nThe dissecting knife of Professor Agassiz has been among the \ntenants of the Linth, and he has found more than forty differ- \nent species of fish in its waters. The stories of chamois hunters \nare marvellous as fairy tales. In German Jogdgeschichte has \nabout the same signification as sailors yarn in English, and \nwhen the hunter relates what they cannot believe, they say he \ntells Jagdgeschichten, he spins long yarns. Many of them remind \none of " leather stocking " and the trappers of Kentucky in the \nolden time in America. Hunting is to them a passion, and its \nhardships only incitements ; but they often faint and die among \nthe glaciers, or fall and break their limbs, and thus perish \nbefore help can reach them. They relate the fate of one who \nused to go every Monday morning, with only bread and cheese in \nhis pocket, and return on Saturday night to attend church and \nspend Sunday with his family. At length the accustomed hour \ndid not bring him ; and the next day those who went to search \nfound him sitting with his head upon his hand, and elbow upon \none knee, the other having been broken so that he could not \nmove. He had been frozen to death. He had acquired a little \nfortune of three thousand dollars from his perilous profession. \nAnother killed one beast every day for four successive days, and \nbrought them home ; but the fifth he came not ; and they found \nhim alive, but so deep in a snowy ravine, that it was impossible \nto save him. They could only stretch out their hands in pity ; \nthey could not reach him. He had killed three hundred cha- \nmois. \n\nThe paths among the glaciers of Graubilnden were a long \n\n13 \n\n\n\n290 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntime known only to the chamois hunter ; and those of Cha- \nmouni were not discovered by tourists till 1^94. The unknown \nregions were called "valleys accursed," and supposed to be in- \nhabited by savages. Messrs. Windham and Pocoke, who went \nfrom Geneva, determined to explore them, were considered as \ncommitting a sin and condemned. They returned in safety to \nsay the inhabitants were good Christians, though unknown to \nthe Pope, and good Savoyards, though unknown to the King of \nSardinia. Their taxes soon became heavier than their glaciers, \nand their poverty is greater than among any of the Swiss Alps. \nAround Bernina, in Graubtinden, there are more glaciers \nthan around Mont Blanc, and they are not less grand, but it \nhas not yet become the fashion to chmb them. The hunter has \nthem still all to himself. In 183t one died, who numbered two \nthousand seven hundred chamois as the victims of his rifle. His \nson used to kill from forty to fifty a day, but in 1854 the num- \nber amounted to only eleven, as the gentle creatures have learned \nthat the chase is forbidden in the Yaltline, and flee there for \nrefuge. Now and then a tame one may be seen, who has been \nbrought up with the goats, but they do not learn of him grace, \nand he never quite conforms to goatish habits. The hunter says \nthey are not shy in their youth, neither are they so skilful and \nexpert in bounding over the glens. The young ones are taught \nas a child is taught to walk, the mother going back and forward, \nperforming a succession of leaps, and then looking anxiously on \nwhile they are imitated, by first a little jump, and then a longer \none, till they fear no height, and pause at no depth. Whether \nthis is true, or a Jagdgeschichte, we do not know, but there is \nnot a prettier sight than a troop of the beautiful creatures put \nto flight by a hunter\'s gun, and bounding, with the swiftness of \nbirds, over mountain and valley and stream. \n\n\n\nGLAETJS. 291 \n\nBut the brave men of Glarus are not all hunters. Gallati, \nwho was sixty-nine years field-marshal of France, was a native \nof this canton, a shepherd boy on the Alps ; and they have \ngiven to the armies of Italy and France many of their most dis- \ntinguished generals. \n\nA nobler man still w^as Escher von der Linth, who was instru- \nmental in turning the course of the river Liuth, so as to convert \ntwo thousand acres of marsh into fruitful fields, and thus give a \npure air to hundreds who had before breathed only pestilence. \n\nThe Lake of Zurich and the Wallen sea are thus connected \nby a navigable canal, and a profitable commerce opened to the \npeople. \n\nThe proposal of Escher was adopted in 180t, and in ten years \nthe work was finished by means of a subscription throughout \nthe country, obtained by the eloquence of one man. The title \nof von der Linth was conferred upon him by the Federal Council \nas a reward for his labours. But by the sentimentalists of des- \npotism this would be considered evidence of a practical and mer- \ncenary mind, and the projector far inferior to him who has suc- \ncessfully slaughtered a few thousand innocent men on the field \nof battle. \n\nThey have also furnished many eminent historians and jurists, \nas well as useful men in all the various calHngs of life. It was \na man of Glarus who first introduced potatoes into Switzerland, \nwhich is a deed to which attaches no edat, but, perhaps, no \nother has proved a greater good to the people. \n\nAll summer there is a throng of mountain climbers, and every \nmorning parties set out on expeditions to the surrounding heights \nbehind which the sun sinks so early, that the long summer days \nare short, affording in winter scarcely six hours of daylight. \nWe were more interested in the expeditions of a little boy, who \n\n\n\n292 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nused to go every morning witli his little herd of goats, and re- \nturn in the evening with his charge. He did not look more \nthan six years old, and was often scarcely awake when he set \nout, with a little whipr in his hand, and two or three animals, \nwho followed him slowly, being joined by others here and there \nas they passed the houses of the owners, till the full number was \ncomplete. We always pitied him in the morning, he looked so \nsleepy, and was so small to go far away alone among the hills, \nbut in the evening he came merrily home, and a very opposite \nsentiment was inspired as the children ran out to welcome him, \nputting their arms around the goats, patting and kissing them, \nwhile the little herdsman laughed and snapped his whip full of \nglee. \n\nThus all our journeyings were strewn with pleasant incidents \nthat will be furnished in the future \'\'sunny memories" in "for- \neign lands." \n\n\n\n( THURGOVIE \xe2\x96\xa0 ) \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XIX. \n\nTHURGO\\aE. \n\nTALK IN A DILIGENCE \xe2\x80\x94 COACHMAN\'s LIVEET\xe2\x80\x94 THURGOVIAN VILLAGE \xe2\x80\x94 POST \nOFFICE \xe2\x80\x94 ^NAPOLEON IN THURGOVIE \xe2\x80\x94 CUSTOM-HOUSE \xe2\x80\x94 SCHOOLS \xe2\x80\x94 WEDDINGS. \n\nThe first acquaintance we made with Thurgovie was, when \noccupying the traveller\'s seat in a post-chaise, with a very \nyoung and very good-natured looking little coachman, seated \nwithin speaking distance in front. \n\nWe do not wait long for an occasion of addressing him ; for \nthis is our principle in Switzerland as in Germany, to learn all \nwe can about the people from the people themselves, not under- \nstanding how there can be a better authority for any custom, \nthan those who practise it ! \n\nBut in this case, as in a multitude of others, we learn that it is \nnot a Swiss, but a German, with whom we are thrown in contact. \n\n" What part of Germany are you from ?" \n\n" Wtirtemberg." \n\n" What did you come to Switzerland for ?" \n\n" Ach, man kann hier besser machen !"* (Oh, one can do \nbetter here 1) \n\n* A German suggests that this is not good German, but it is an expression often \nheard in Switzerland. \n\n\n\n294 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\n" Why ?" \n\n" We get more wages." \n\n\'\' Oh, you do ; and how much do you get a week or year in \nyour office of coachman ?" \n\n" Five francs a week and found." \n\n" What did you do in Germany ?" \n\n" I was coachman there too." \n\n" How much did you have a week V^ \n\n*\' Sixty sous." \n\n" O yes, I see, it is a little better ; and is this all the reason \nwhy you prefer Switzerland ?" \n\n" Oh, nein \xe2\x80\x94 \'die Freiheit."\' \n\n*\' You think it is freer here than in Germany ?" \n\nUpon which he laughed, as if we must be very stupid to ask \nsuch a question ; but immediately said, \'\' Are you from Ger- \nmany ?" \n\n"^o \'j but we have lived there some time ; and we also like \nthe Freiheit here better than the absence of it there." \n\nIn the course of conversation we learned that he was not yet \ntwenty-one, and had only been in Switzerland a year \xe2\x80\x94 that he \nwas to receive from the Federal Government a whole new suit \nof clothes the first day of every May. When we asked him \nhow much the clothes cost, he did not know, because it had \nnever occurred to him to ask. He went to the tailor and was \nmeasured, and when they were finished he received them. He \nwent to the hatter and the bootmaker in the same way. Tlie \nclothes were of Prussian blue ; and before we had journeyed \nmany miles, as we passed a house a similar suit was brought to \nhim to carry to the coachman on the next road. These being \non the seat, we examined them more closely, and saw that the \nbuttons had for ornament, the great cord and tassels wi^h the \n\n\n\nTHURGOVIE. 295 \n\ntrumpet attached, which our driver wore over his shoulder. So \nwe ask, \'\' Are the buttons of all the coachman\'s coats in Switzer- \nland like these ?" \n\n" Yes, they are all alike ; it is our uniform ; so we always \nknow one another." \n\nThe collar and seams were of bright red, with some white \nstripes for beauty. As we turned it over, he said, \'\' Schon, \nnicht wahr ?" (They are beautiful, are they not ?) And a \nlook of conscious pride spread over his face as he glanced at his \nown federal livery. \n\nWe afterwards had occasion to notice many, and saw the \nnever-faiUng cord and tassels on all the buttons, and also the \ninvariable pattern of roses and butterflies, on all the cushions \nand coach linings in the twenty-two cantons. \n\nThe trumpet was of course to blow, when he came to a post- \nof&ce or other place where it was his duty to stop ; but instead \nof this he snapped his whip and waited long, sometimes in vain, \ngoing on without seeing the people. \n\n" Why do you not blow the horn ?" we ask. His face \nturned a deeper scarlet than his coat collar, while he laughed \nbut spoke not. \n\n" Why do you not blow the horn ?" we repeat, seeing that \nhe is determined not to do it, whether anybody hears or not. \n\n" Oh, niemand thut es," nobody does it. \n\n" But in Germany they blow the horn continually ; why do \nyou not like to blow the horn ? We think it is beautiful." \n\n" Yes, in Germany, but in Switzerland nobody does ; and \nthey would all laugh at me." \n\nSo, as the Germans say, we learned the secret ; still we could \nnot be quite certain why nobody liked to blow horns in Switzer- \nland ; and the little man was evidently not a philosophei\'. He \n\n\n\n296 THE COTTAGES OF THB ALPS. \n\ndid not ask the price of Ms coat, being quite content to get it ; \nhe carried the horn, because the rest did ; and he did not blow \nit, because the others did not. \n\nIt was the same with what he ate and drank; he never asked \nhow much was paid for his board. All his wants were supplied ; \nhis duty was to take all the travellers who went that way to a \ncertam village, which required only three or four hours. The \nnext day he returned ; and when not on the road, he cared for \nthe horses. Surely no philosopher could be more content. \n\nBut either because we are neither coachman nor philosopher, \nor for some other reason, we are not so content, and begin to \nwonder what should create this insignificant point of difference \nbetween those of the same class in these two countries, lying \nside by side. But the difi\'erence is not in those of this class \nalone, in matters of equal importance. Whoever is angestdlt in \nGermany, must blow his trumpet, whether it is tied with cord \nand tassels over his shoulder, or appears in a string of long \ntitles to his name ; some grand parade must be made to let \nall the people know that they are Government employes. In \nSwitzerland, those who are Government employes are usually \nsomething else, for all the Government furnishes them would \nnot supply their daily bread. The magistrates, professors, and \nliterary men often have a trade or some business by which they \nlive ; literatm-e and the duties of office being only pastime. A \nFrenchman in writing on Zurich says: " An artisan knows more \nof literature than the beaux esprits of Paris. A man is not \nmerely a geometrician or a naturalist, but a useful man in some \nsphere of active hfe. Lavater was curd to the orphan-house, \nand is remembered only for the good he did. Their books are \neverywhere, and their names have filled the world." \n\nBut whilst we are philosophizing, the post-chaise has set us \n\n\n\nTHUBGOVIE. 297 \n\ndown at a mce-looking inn, where we are to observe a little \nwhile, and leave moraMzing for another day. \n\nFortunately for our purpose, we are again by the village \nbrunnen, which, however, has not the usual hero or saint placed \nto protect it, and probably is not thought worthy this honour, \nas the reservoir is only a large trough, into which the water is \nconducted by the simplest of wooden spouts. But the frauen are \nthere all the same, -with great tubs and baskets of clothes, and \nnod to us so famiharly that we look again to see if it is any one \nwe have known before. This we noticed, too, in passing in the \ncoach ; the women looked up and greeted us in so friendly a \nmanner that we could not at first beheve they regarded us as \nquite a stranger. But we afterwards learned it is their custom, \nand a very pleasant one it seems. How many such pleasant \ncustoms there are among unsophisticated people. What a con- \ntrast to the cold, inhospitable " Who are you ?" manner of the \nhigh-bred and world-wise I \n\nPassing by the village post-office, we look in at the windows, \nand see that the duties are performed by an old lady and a very \npretty young one ; and as here the post wagons from three dif- \nferent ways meet, there is quite a bustle, as the great and little \nbags, containing great and Uttle letters, are untied, and their \ncontents poured forth. We walk in, and ask for a letter, though \nwe know that by no possibility can one reach us here, where no \nperson in the world has been informed that we shall ever come. \nBut being once within, on any proper pretext, we sit down and \nobseiTe the operations. The room is small, and a gate separates \nthe postmistress from those who come in, but does not at all con- \nceal the bags or their contents ; and soon comes a village \nmaiden, blushing like a tuHp or peony, to ask if there is no letter \nfor her. How sad she looks as they tell her " No," in a chiUing \n\n13* \n\n\n\n298 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nbusiness tone, and she turns slowly away. Then comes an old \nman, whose son is in a strange land ; a little boy, whose sister \nis on a journey; a mother, who has not heard from her daughter \nfor very, very long. Alas ! how many family and heart-histo- \nries are revealed in this one hour : and our thoughts are ever \nrecurring to that one village scene with an interest we have sel- \ndom felt in strangers. \n\nHow very respectable looks that portly middle-aged man, \nwith his straw hat bound with black, and large w^hite-headed \nbrown and yellow cane, walking with his frau, who has the same \nJlrst people of the village look, on their way to make a neighbourly \ncall, or take a social cup of tea. \n\nWe like the looks of things in Thurgovie very well. The \ncanton makes almost an equilateral triangle between St. Grail \nand Zurich, and has Lake Constance for her northern boundary. \nHer name she derives from the principal river flowing through \nthe land ; but we cannot learn the signification of the\' lions in \nfull length on her escutcheon, upon fields of green and white, \nclimbing up an inclined plane. The mantles of the Landweibel \nare also green and white ; and her Government is now entirely \ndemocratic. But this was not brought about till a few years \nsince ; and Thurgovie was a subject province of the seven \noriginal cantons after the Austrians were expelled in 1499 till \nafter the revolution of 1^98. She has experienced only a short \nperiod anything like liberty, yet her territory is called the gar- \nden and granary of Helvetia. \n\nThe original Helvetian League was dissolved by the Komans, \nwho occupied the country till they were driven out by the \nGermans. They were conquered by Clovis ; and the Francs \nbecame masters, and introduced missionaries, one bishop having \na seat at Constance and another at Arbun. Then came the \n\n\n\nTHUEGOVIE. 299 \n\nSuabian Counts, who by various rights and with various degrees \nof power, ruled till 1264, when the whole fell by inheritance to \nthe House of Hapsburg. The castles of Thurgovie were like a \nnetwork, completely linking and overlooking the land ; the \nruins *of seventy-two are still visible, and there are only forty \nthree square leagues of territory. The monasteries, churches, \nand chapels, were almost as many ; and the tyranny of their \nlords and bishops was Uke a millstone on the necks of the people. \n\nIt is another curious subject for moralizmg, to see the ruins \nof the castle of a Hapsburg Prince not very far from the new \nImperial palace of the French Emperor. In the castle of \nGottlieben, on Lake Constance, John Huss and Jerome of \nPrague were imprisoned, and two miles from this is Arenenberg, \nwhere Hortense Beauharnaia took refuge, when ex-Queen of \nHolland. Her son, Louis Napoleon, repaired thither on his re- \nturn from America, when he was made citizen by the Government \nof Thurgovie and captain of a company of artillery. He prac- \ntised under General Dufour, the commander-in-chief of the Swiss \nrepublican army, when the soldiers met for a grand review at \nThun, and took great pride in his Thurgovian regiment. \n\nWhen he received his patent of citizenship, he wrote in \nacknowledgment, \'\' With great pleasure I have received the \noffer which you have made me of citizenship of Thurgovie. I \nam happy to be linked by new bonds to the land which has so \nlong extended to me its hospitality. I am an exile. Beheve \nme, that under all relations, as Frenchman and Bonaparte, I \nshall be proud to call myself citizen of Thurgovie, and my \nmother joins me in the expression of this feeling." \n\nThe command of the artillery company was given by the \nFederal Council. This he acknowledged too, in the following \nmanner : \n\n\n\n300 the cottages of the alps. \n\n" Mr. President, \n\n" I have received the patent by which I am made captain \nof artillery by the little council of Berne. I hasten to express \nmy thanks, that you have thus fulfilled my most ardent wish. \nMy fatherland, or rather the French Government, has banished \nme, because I am the nephew of a great man. You treat me \nmore justly. I am proud to be nilmhered aimong the defenders of a \nstate in which the people are recognized as sovereign, and where each \ncitizen is ready to sacrifice himself for the good of the fatherland. \n\n"Accept, Mr. President, the assurance of my highest re- \nspect," etc., etc. \n\nIs it possible he can ever forget this hpspitality ; or that, \nwhen they were afterwards asked to give him up, twenty thou- \nsand Swiss soldiers were armed almost in a day to defend his \nrights, not as Louis Napoleon, but as citizen of Thurgovie ? * \n\nOne would thmk, he would be ready to say, " If I forget thee, \nJerusalem, let my right hand forget its cunning. If I do not \n\n* As a matter of curiosity we add the letter he addressed to the President of the United \nSlates when he left America : \n\n" Mr. President, \n\n" I will not leave the United States without expressing to your Excellency how sin- \ncerely I regret being obliged to leave your country before fulfilling my intention of going \nto Washington to become personally acquainted with you. A cruel destiny has thrown \nme upon your shores ; but I hoped to improve the opportunity this banishment would \ngive me of seeing the great men for whom your land is renowned. I wished to learn the \ncustoms and understand the Government of a country which has made more lasting con- \nquests by its industry and commerce than we in Europe by our arms. \n\n" i hoped to travel under the protection of your excellent laws, and to study the genius \nof a people which has excited my whole sympathy. But an imperative duty calls me \nback to the Old World. \n\n" My mother is dangerously ill ; and as no political consideration can detain me under \nsuch circumstances, I shall immediateiy return to England, and attempt to go from there \nto Switzerland," etc., etc. \n\n\n\nTHUKGOVIE. 301 \n\nremember thee, let my tongue cleave to the roof of my mouth.^\' \nWhere would he have been now, had there been no land of \nrefuge \xe2\x80\x94 no England, no America ? Woe to him when he for- \ngets the hand that protected him in the day of his affliction. \nThe son of Hortense Beauharnais and grandson of Josephine, \nshould be more than prince or emperor \xe2\x80\x94 a noble man ! \n\nThe schools he founded in Thurgovie are still flourishing, and \nstill receive the aid he promised, and many children are taught \nto call him blessed. But while performing the duties of humble \ncitizen and seemingly content, he was probably spinning the pur- \nple threads of his imperial robe. When it was finished, and he \nbecame fairly invested with it, he sold the noble castle, with all \nthe relics and souvenu-s which had accumulated during the mis- \nfortunes of his family, to a Neufchatelois for the sum of one \nhundred and eighty-five thousand dollars. Twelve years later the \nEmpress Eugenie repurchased it for a gift to her husband, and \nhas fitted it up anew, in the most recherche style of construction \nand ornament. Almost within sight are the ruins of four other \ncastles, one of them having been built by Eugene Beauharnais, \nwhen Viceroy of Italy. Kings and emperors surely are the sport \nof the fickle goddess. How marvellous that they should so \ndevotedly worship at her shrine ! \n\nIn the early historical battles, Morgarten, Sempach, and \nNafles, the nobles of Thurgovie were in the Austrian army, and \nmany of them were among the slain. Afterwards they were \nentirely subdued, and their castles demolished by the people of \nAppenzell ; and though the Emperor regained a measure of his \npower and some of his rights in the Landgravate, the nobility \nnever again recovered from the blow. \n\nBut the poor people were no more fortunate under the baihflfs \nwhich the cantons set over tliem. These officials often paid \n\n\n\n302 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nfour thousand dollars for the office, which was to last only \ntwo years, and repaid themselves by exactions from their subjects- \nThis is the dark spot of Swiss history. Having fought so \nbravely for their own independence, and especially to secure this \nvery right of choosing their own rulers, they governed with \nscarcely less tyranny and injustice their conquered provinces, in- \nstead of receiving them as brothers and allies. \n\nThe Reformation again made foes of friends ; and during all \nthe Thirty Years\' War the influence of the nobles was with the \nimperialists, and the people had to guard against traitors within \nand enemies without ; yet they succeeded in securing a little \nmore of political freedom, and establishing the reformed religion. \nBat still they were the subjects of the Confederacy till 1198, \nwhen a popular assembly demanded admission on an equality ; \nand the fear of the French, and the necessity of unity, made it \nimpossible to refuse. Then followed stormy debates about their \nown constitution, which was not framed upon the basis which \ncan alone secure peace and contentment till 1831. \n\nDuring all those changes, Constance remained a city apart ; \nbut this we quite forgot one dark, rainy night, when the dili- \ngence rolled us over its rickety pavements, and set us down at \nthe custom-house door. Half a sleep and half frozen, we \nentered the lighted apartment, not at all understanding why, or \nwhat was to be done, when we heard the man of office order \nour boxes and bundles to be opened, that he might inspect them. \nWe were so fortunate as not to betray our ignorance, and made \nno remonstrance, but kept wondering to ourselves why we were \nobliged to submit to this departure from Swiss laws and polite- \nness in this one city. The man who filled the honourable office \nof examining ladies\' toilet boxes exhibited a peculiar exultation \n\xe2\x96\xa0as the knots of the cords were being loosened, evidently feeling \n\n\n\nTHUKGOVIE. 303 \n\nquite sure of booty because of the care with which they had \nbeen secured. We had come to our senses, and began to enjoy \nhis impatience, and to triumph in anticipation over his disap- \npointment. They succeeded at length, and without allowing us \nto perform the office ourselves of exhibiting our wardrobe, this \nhonourable dignitary thrust his rude hands into the depths of \nwoollens, silks, and cottons, without ceremony, \'and found of \ncourse \xe2\x80\x94 nothing \xe2\x80\x94 nothing that belonged to him. \n\nHe looked sufficiently ashamed when he had finished to excite \nour compassion rather than our contempt ; and we doubt not, \nthe next lady traveller would benefit by our experience. \n\nA few days afterwards we were at Rorschach, quite as igno- \nrant or forgetful that it was a border town, and the same boxes, \nsecured with the same care, were set down by the porter upon \nthe very scales of the custom-house. But the official, with a \npeculiar scrutiny which such officers only have, looked in our \neyes, and said, not only politely, but graciously, " You have \nnothing in this but your wardrobe ?" " Nothing, mein Herr :\'\' \nupon which he lifted it to test its weight, and ordered it to be \npassed on, bowing to us to do the same. \n\nWhen people remain a long time, or take up their residence \nin any town in Switzerland, they are obliged, we believe, to \ndeliver their passports, and obtain permission to dwell in their \nmidst But we can say for ourselves, that during a residence \nof many months in the country, staying days in one place, and \nweeks in another, we never saw a poHceman that we knew to be \nsuch ; and when we asked a gentleman, one day, who had lived \nin the capital a, year or two, if a certain man in cap and cloak \nwas a member of the police, he said he did not know, he had \nnever seen a policeman that he knew of, and could not tell \n\n\n\n30i THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nwhether there were any in the city ; which was perhaps quite as \ncreditable to him as to the government and people. \n\nFrom no government official, high or low, did we experience \nanything but the utmost kindness and politeness, with one ex- \nception, which was on the railroad, leaving this same town of \nRorschach. The conductor being a very good-looking man, \nwas so absorbed in talking with pretty maidens, that, when we \nasked if this was the carriage we should take, he did not pay \nsufficient attention to answer rightly, and not till we had gone \nsome miles in the wrong direction did we learn the mistake. He \nwas so rude and baisterous, evidently because he was disturbed \nin his favourite amusement, that we were nearly thrown from \nthe carriage into a little village of which we knew not the name, \nnor how we were ever to get out of it. But we had a plea- \nsanter experience in the kindness of the station-master, who \nprovided for our return to the starting-point gratis, with some \none who should testify to the treatment we had received, and with \nthe injunction that our original ticket was to cover all expenses. \n\nConstance does not belong to Switzerland, and therefore, \ncomes not within our sphere of criticism or description. But \nonly a mile from there is Kreuzlingen on Swiss soil, where \ntravellers who know enough, or who are thoughtful enough, \noften go to avoid the custom-house, and come into the city sans \nbaggage, to review it at their leisure. \n\nWe were interested in Kreuzlingen for another reason. \nHere exists one of the best agricultural schools and teachers\' \nseminaries in Switzerland, or on the Continent. The free Gov- \nernment was no sooner established than schools became their \nfirst care. Primary schools were immediately instituted, which \nchildren are obliged to attend from the age of five till twelve, \n\n\n\nTHTJEGOVIE. 305 \n\nand higher schools, in which they must continue till fifteen, at \nleast one month of every year. Besides these, the Government \nhas created secondary schools throughout the canton, so situ- \nated that no child has more than four miles to go in order to \nattend one. \n\nThe school buildings at Kreuzlingen were formerly an old \nAugustine convent, dating to the tenth century, and rebuilt, \nafter its destruction in the Thirty Years\' War. The site com- \nmands a beautiful view of the lake, stretching seventy miles east \nand west. To the left rise the towers of the time-honoured, and \nmartyr-famed city ; to the right the snow-clad peaks of Appen- \nzell, and in firont, the forest-crowned hills of Wurtemberg. \n\nMr. Yehrle, who is at the head of the institution, was a pupil \nof Pestalozzi, and his son distinguished himself as scholar and \nteacher in the school of Fellenberg, at Hofwyl, near Berne. \nHe is now an old man, but with a bright, intelligent face, and a \nheart and soul that the monotonous routine of pedagogueism \nhas not at all chilled. All who come are welcome, and he \nreceives them without apology in his home-spun coat, cowhide \nshoes, and weather-beaten hat, and if they will stay to dinner, \nthe plain, every-day fare is set before them with equal cordiality. \n\nThe faces of the students are brown with toiling in the sun, \nbut then: manners frank and easy. The principle, Mr. Yehrle \nsaid, upon which they teach, is, that the peasants should learn \nto be highminded and refined, and yet remain simple. They are \ntaught to follow this one good example of the Romish priest- \nhood, to mingle freely with the people, and all that they acquire \nor possess of superiority to diffuse by familiar conversation and \nintercourse. Every young man, he said, rich or poor, should \nsome time labour upon the soil. \n\nThe students take care of their rooms, and besides the work \n\n\n\n306 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nof the field, assist in various occupations of the house ; foi \nthough the school is supported by the Government, they are \nexpected to make the expense as little as possible. \n\nThe course of instruction includes religion, German and \nFrench, geography, history, arithmetic, geometry, natural his- \ntory, natural philosophy, writing, drawing, vocal music, gymnas- \ntics, architecture. \n\nIn all the normal colleges it is the same, or more extensive, \nand in almost every canton now there is one, and in some two, \nand in others three. In all Switzerland nineteen-twentieths of \nthe children are in school, and obliged to stay there, in some \ntill they are fourteen, and in others till they are seventeen years \nof age. \n\nIn every canton there is a hoard of inspectors, and minister of \npublic instruction, and a parish board of inspectors from among \nthe people. No young man can teach without a diploma and \ncertificate of character from the normal college where he was \neducated. \n\nBut we often heard the parents complain, that the teachers \nwere not of the high order they should be, which is one of the \nsurest signs of progress. Where there are Catholics and Pro- \ntestants, the directors are chosen in equal numbers from each ; \nand iu the normal schools no one is required to remain in the \nroom to listen to religious instruction from those of a different \ndenomination than his own. \n\nIn Thurgovie there are ten thousand Protestants, twenty \nthousand Catholics, and three Jews I They now live in the \nutmost harmony, worshipping in the same churches, and enjoying \nall privileges in common ; and they agree also in allowing no \nJew to live on any terms in their midst, if they can help it. \n\nIf one may credit the sermons preached in the olden time, \n\n\n\nTHUKGOVIE. 307 \n\nbad as the people are now, they are still much better than they \nwere. In 151 1, fifteen murders from drunkenness in one year \nare mentioned ; and every species of crime is laid to their charge, \nby those whose duty it was to minister to them " doctrine, re- \nproof, and correction." \n\nWe find in the chronicles of this and some other cantons the \ncustom of allowing a murderer to do penance for his crime, and \nUve. In 1524, it was ordained, that one who had sinned in this \nway should enter the church on a specified day, with eighty \nothers, and perform penance ; he should cause two masses to be \nsaid, and attend each with twelve men, paying at both twenty- \nfive cents and a candle. He should cause a certain amount of \nbread to be baked for the poor, cause a light to be burnt, and \nprayers to be said in the church for the murdered one, a whole \nyear ; erect a stone cross, five feet high, where the relatives \nshould direct ; step aside if likely to meet any one who was a \nblood relation of the deceased ; visit no inn, or play, or dance, \nwhere he could come in contact with them, and must pay them \nforty-four dollars. \n\nThere are still many of the old customs remaining, of which \none of the most pecuhar is the wedding, which has some of the \nfeatures of those in the northern part of Germany. An orator \nis the bearer of invitations, who is often the village school- \nmaster. He makes a formal speech before every house, which \nall the people run to hear. On the morning of the wedding, he \naccompanies the bridegroom and the groomsmen to the house \nof the bride, where they breakfast together ; after which he \nmakes a speech to the father and mother, recounting to them \nall the noble qualities of the bridegroom, and beseeching them \nto give their daughter williugly away, as he is sure a long life \nof happiness is in store for her. \n\n\n\n308 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nA rival orator then " takes the word^^ and presents the dark \nside of the picture, all the difficulties of the new position, and \nthe virtues of the bride. After this parliamentary discussion \nthe bride departs with her betrothed for church, amidst prayers \nand tears and good wishes ; and to keep up her spirits, musi- \ncians cheer her way with song. \n\nAfter the ceremony they have a dinner, at which the bride \ncan only eat what the groomsman places stealthily upon her \nplate, and must be careful that he does not in the mean time as \nstealthily remove her shoe, else she and her husband would be \nlaughing-stocks. During the meal, the guests send her little \npresents to make sport. After it is finished, the orator makes \nanother speech to the newly married pair, giving them advice, \nhoping they will receive rich gifts and be happy. \n\nFormerly, the weddings took place on Wednesday, because \nthe days of the week in German all end with day except this, \nwhich is in their language Mittwoch, and therefore no day at all. \nNow among the Catholics they are solemnized on Monday, and \nby the Protestants on Tuesday or Thursday. \n\nAt funerals the mourners cover themselves with long black \nmantles ; and sometimes the schoolmaster makes a speech before \nthe house. Black is worn a year by the relatives. \n\nThe kindling of fires on the hills at carnival was continued \ntill the insurance companies petitioned for a law to forbid it. \n\nThe last Sunday of Lent is observed among Protestants as a \nfete day, and the first Sunday among Catholics. At the end \nof harvest, and when the rye is threshed, the land proprietors \ngive a feast and rural ball, which they call the Sichdlegi and \nPflegelhenU \xe2\x80\x94 the laying down of the scythe and the suspension \nof the flail. \n\nIn one district is what they term a fooVs feast. On Ash \n\n\n\nTHUKGOVIE. 309 \n\nWednesday they repair to a castle on a neighbouring hill, and \nform a procession to ride through the village on horseback. \nThey form a mock parliament, with a king at the head ; and on \narriving at the place of distinction, where a throng awaits them, \nthe speaker of the day recounts the follies which have been \ncommitted in all the country round, satirizing individuals and \ncommunities. The baihff was accustomed to send for the \ndinner two casks of wine, by which he escaped being numbered \namong the fools ; and others who would procure the same \nfavour must purchase it, sending wme or some other substantial \ngift. \n\nThe Christmas-tree and the Maypole are still to be seen at \ntheir respective seasons ; and school children have their days of \nfestivity. \n\nIn Thurgovie we find the spuming room as in Germany, flax \nbeing among their agricultural products : and the long webs of \nlinen cover the grass-plots, which the women are seen sprinkling \nwith their pretty green watering pots. Often at her marriage \na maiden receives a great distaff of flax, which she is enjoined \nto spin off as industriously as possible. When she comes to the \nlast layer, out fall ribbons, laces, and money, a trousseau which \nonly her diligence can reveal. \n\nSometimes the dowry is an orchard of apple and pear trees, \nthese being the wealth of Thurgovie. \n\nYery fine laces are also woven by the Thurgovian damsels, \nbut not in great quantities. \n\nOf the old dress there is nothing peculiar remainmg, except, \nwith some, a sort of hat or cap made of calico, and shaped like \na great plate, looking a little way off like a tray. \n\nThe houses present the same mixture of old and new as else- \nwhere ; and in some villages they are covered with hideous \n\n\n\n310 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\npaintings, the figures large as life, representing some scene in \nhistory or the Bible. But where new ones are built, they are \npretty and commodious. \n\nIn no other canton is so much done for fruit, and so much \npains taken in grafting. They are mostly an agricultural peo- \nple, but with all the efforts of their excellent school to remove \nthem, they still cling to the old ways from prejudice. We \nnoticed in a journal that a course of lectures was to be given on \nroads, ditches, and draining ; and the number of hailstorms this \nseason had suggested the propriety of having hailstorm insurance \ncompanies added to their many others. \n\nOn the borders of Zurich are many ribbon looms, and in \nArbun, on the lake, they weave them of half cotton, and some \nthat have not a particle of silk in their composition. \n\nOnly a few devote all their time to any species of manufac- \nture, but spin and weave in the winter and rainy days, when \nthey would do nothing else. \n\nTheir list of savants is very long, numbering some forty or \nfifty in all the different departments of science and belles lettres. \nIn the days of old, many of their knights were troubadours. In \n1192, a poem was written by Ulric de Zazikafen, called Lancelot \ndu Lac, which is still read as one of the most remarkable in \nGerman literature. One of their bishops made a collection of \nthe songs of the troubadours, and wrote many himself, but \nwhether he tried their influence beneath the lattice of some fair \ndamsel is not stated. He probably wrote them for others to \nsing. \n\nOn reading their history, it seems as if about as many authors, \nprofessors, painters, and engravers, as soldiers, have served \nforeign princes, and it is certainly very remarkable how many \nthey have produced, for so small a country, and one which has \n\n\n\nTHURGOVIE. 311 \n\nthe reproach of being only practical and mercenary. Few who \nadmire the master-works in sculpture with which the gardens of \nVersailles and the Tuileries are filled, know how great a propor- \ntion were the work of a Swiss artist, Balthasar Keller. Will \nany one say, that only a land over which waves a sceptre can \nproduce genius? In the words of another, we ask, "Has \nVienna, the proud capital, absorbed in a life all material, and \nministering, as it does, entirely to the senses, sent forth a \ntithe, a hundredth part of the great men of Zurich ?" In \nAustria a man of genius is almost on a level with a valet de \nchamhre, for there, as elsewhere, despotism only debases charac- \nter and paralyzes intelMgence. \n\n\n\n( GRISONS ) \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XX. \n\nGRAUEUNDEN. \n\nSPLUGEN \xe2\x80\x94 ^TIA MALA \xe2\x80\x94 GREY LEAGUE \xe2\x80\x94 VALE OF DISENnS \xe2\x80\x94 ITALIAN SHEP\' \n\nHERD\xe2\x80\x94 CASTASAGNA CHESTNUTS \xe2\x80\x94 ALPINE FETE \xe2\x80\x94 KILTGANG \xe2\x80\x94 ENGADINE \n\nDANCES. \n\nWhen we looked on the map to trace a route through Switzer- \nland, and glanced upon the portion devoted to Graubilnden, we \nthought, " Is it possible there can be a road, a valley, or even a \nfootpath among those mountams, where the surface is black as \nif it were one vast forest ?" On looking in the guide-book we \nread, " Ko one should say he has seen Switzerland until he has \ncrossed the Spliigen." \n\n" O\'er the Simplon, o\'er the Spliigen \nWinds a path of pleasure," \n\n\n\nsays the poet ; and wishing to say ourselves that we have seen \nat least the most important parts of each canton, we look out \nfrom the back window of our room in Chur one morning, and \nsee a coach with Spliigen in great letters on its side, with the \nhorses just harnessing that are to trot in that direction, and \n\n812 \n\n\n\nGKAUBUNDEN. 313 \n\nresolve to take a seat by the three respectable-looking passen- \ngers, who have already \'\'booked themselves" in accordance \nwith a similar decision. We send the servant to ask if there is \ntime, and she returns to say, " In three minutes they start." \nBut they wait three more for a passenger, and we are at the \nend of that time on the way. We had not then seen the Sim- \nplon or the St. Gothard, and whether it was that first impres- \nsions are the most powerful, or that the Splugen is really the \nmost wonderful, we cannot tell, but the impression still remains, \nthat there can be nothmg more grand or sublime in nature, and \nnothing more marvellous in art, than is here exhibited in the \ncourse of a day\'s journey. \n\nOnly the Gondo, in the descent of the Simplon, and the \nPfaeffers, make any rival pretensions with the Via Mala, but \nthis is wilder than the former and grander than the latter, and \ndark and terril^le beyond anythiag Switzerland elsewhere pre- \nsents. The Rhine is rushing in invisible depths below, and the \nsun is shut out by the almost invisible peaks above, while we \nare suspended between, surrounded by the darkness of night at \nmid-day, winding round and round, our road disappearing the \nmoment we have passed it, and the one before us concealed by \ngreat juttmg clifTs, which we must penetrate in order to come \nagain to the light of day. We are of opinion, indeed, that no \none should say he has seen Switzerland, or a mountain gorge, \ntill he has crossed the Spliigen. \n\nThe three great roads which owe their construction to the \ntriumphs of modern science and art,, seem equally wonderful. \nThey are built upon the same principles, and struggle with the \nsame general difficulties, which all are equally successful in con- \nquering. One marvels continually how the country ever became \ninhabited before these ways of communication were opened ; yet \n\n\n\n314 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthe Romans crossed the same mountains, and led then* legions \nthrough the same valleys. \n\nThe inhabitants who peopled it are of diflferent origin, and \nfled here from persecution in other lands, hiding amidst the \nrocks and caves from the sword of tyranny and the might of in- \njustice. \n\nThese valleys were so secluded, that often the people of one \nknew nothing of those in another, perhaps for centuries, but \nwhen they were invaded, and a common danger threatened, they \nbegan to unite, and form leagues of defence against foreign foes. \n\nGrauhunden signifies Grey League, a name which was not \nadopted till the fifteenth century, and before this the country \nwas long known as the Ten Jurisdictions, in consequence of \nanother union, which had been formed ; but for many centuries \nit was called Rheiia, a name supposed to be given it by the first \ncolonists, who were Etruscam, and migrated hither six hundred \nyears before the Christian era, and only a century and a half \nafter the foundation of Rome. According to Pliny, the leader \nof the colony was Rhaekcs, who thus gave the name to the \nwhole country. \n\nThe Romans ruled it during four centuries, but they did not \nleave here a great work to testify to the long residence of any \nconsiderable number. No castles, aqueducts, or great highways, \nmark the era of their glory. But in 1786 a peasant found in \ndigging two vases of brass, bracelets of gold and silver, thimbles \nand other utensils, and coins with the horse of Troy on one side, \nand Venus on the other. In 1811 were found under a rock \nfifty pieces of money, bearing the date of the epoch of the Car- \nlovingian kings, and the most ancient of the hundreds of castles \nscattered over their heights was built in 155. \n\nTraces of the Rhetians are to be found in all the western and \n\n\n\nGRAFBUNDEN. 315 \n\nnorthern parts of Switerland ; and they formed cohorts under \nRoman generals, in their Egyptian conquests. The Romans \nwere driven out by the northern barbarians, Germans, Ostro- \ngoths, and Yisigoths, till finally then* country fell to Theobebert \nof France and his successors, who ruled it three centuries, and a \nbishop from among the Francs first introduced the Christian \nreUgion, and planted the cross among these wilds. \n\nAfter the death of Charles the Great, German princes being \nrulers, the whole country was parcelled among dukes, counts, \nand bishops, who covered it with castles and cloisters, each \nassuming the right to govern those whom he found within his \nreal or imaginary jurisdiction, till ambition and encroachments \nupon the domain of each other involved them in inextricable \nquarrels, which were ended only by the whole race being driven \nout, and their strongholds demolished by the people, who \nbecame equally weary of their power and theu\' disputes. \n\nIn the fourteenth century began the aUiances of different sec- \ntions with other countries for protection. In the first place the \nbishopric of Disentis united with Canton Uri, in 1319. A few \nyears later Disentis and two other districts formed an alhance \nwith the three forest cantons together. Afterwards they were \njoined by Glarus, and two other landgravates. \n\nIn 1424 was formed the original Grey League ; the name, says \ntradition, being given it from the grey coats or beards of the \nvenerable delegates who formed it. They were representatives \nof the powerful families of the country \xe2\x80\x94 the lords, barons, and \nabbots \xe2\x80\x94 who swore eternal alhance for mutual protection. \n\nNext was formed the league of the Ten Jurisdictions ; these \nthree being composed of districts entirely distinct from each \nother. Rutin 1471 they all united together, having seriously \nexperienced the inconvenience which resulted from so mauy \n\n\n\n316 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ndivisions, and needing the strength which unity and harmony \nwould give. There was now a central lawful authority, and \nsome form of legislation and justice. They adopted the name \nof Grey League for the whole ; and as there was never after- \nwards any serious division, it is retained to this day ; Grauhiin- \nden being the German word, and the French term, Les Grisons. \nfor the modern canton. \n\nThough somewhat tedious, it is still interesting to trace the \ngreat events of history to the slight causes which gave rise to \nthem ; and not less so, perhaps, to learn how so insignificant a \nthing as a name had its origin in some important historical trans- \naction. \n\nBesides the abbot of Disentis, two powerful lords of the \ncountry, the Counts Lax and Rhoetzuns, supported the people, \nfinding, perhaps, that it was useless to resist them. Many \nothers preferred to leave the country, and sold to the peasantry \nall right and title to their domains. \n\nThey were no longer subject to an oppressive TwUesse, but \npeace and quietness were not yet. The Reformation awoke all \nthe slumbering elements of strife and bitterness ; and bishops \nand ducal families who had been banished by the people now \nhad an opportunity to be revenged ; and in no other land did \nthe religious war rage with more violence than in this canton. \nThe Pope and "the Grreat Powers" interfered in all their \naffairs. Their territory was disputed by Austria, Prance, Spain, \nand Italy, their fortunes rising and falling as each was conqueror \nor the conquered. \n\nYet in 15*74, the day of their w^eakness, they had sufiicient \nstrength to enact that no prelate of either confession should \nhenceforth meddle with their political debates. \n\nThe Thirty Years\' War gave the ecclesiastics an opportunity \n\n\n\nGKAUBUNDEN. 317 \n\nto attempt again to regain their power, and hundreds of inno- \ncent victims were massacred in obedience to the commands of \nrival authorities, and anarchy and confusion filled the land. \nPrinces then, as now, improved every opportunity of aggrandiz- \ning themselves ; and those who were not able to defy them \nentirely, were tossed about between them. But Richelieu and \nTalleyrand did not exert their diplomacy in vain or for evil in Grau- \nbtinden . Through their instrumentality a little order was brought \nout of this confusion ; but not till It 99, when they were united to \nHelvetia, had they any settled Government ; and not till 1803, \nwhen Napoleon harmonized them by his mediatorial powers, did \nthey experience true liberty and confidence in each other. After \nthree hundred and thirty years of unceasing warfare they were \nat peace, and progressed more in the " ten years of mediation," \nthan they had in the three centuries before ! \n\nAs compensation, they were obliged to furnish a certain num- \nber of soldiers to his armees, which then was not considered by \nthem a great tax, had it not been for the conscription. They \nimmediately instituted a postal bureau and communications, a \nsavings-bank, an ecclesiastical synod for the reformed rehgion, \xe2\x80\x94 \nwhich the Austrians had entirely suppressed, \xe2\x80\x94 provided for \nschools, and formed agricultural societies. \n\nThere was a little disturbance in 181 1 ; but since their con- \nstitution was elaborated in 1821, their peace has been un- \ninterrupted, and their progress steady, though slow. In 1830, \nwhen all Europe was in commotion, not a murmur of discontent \nwas heard in Graubtinden, because they had no aristocracy to \noverturn, and no privileges to ask. \n\nWe often heard it remarked of this and other cantons, " They \nhave belonged to Switzerland so many hundred years, and they \nare no more civilized and have no higher social life than the \n\n\n\n318 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\npeople in the depotisms around them. Of what use is political \nliberty, if it does not contribute to the advancement of those \nwho enjoy it, if they must remain just as poor and ignorant as \ntheir neighbours in oppression V^ \n\nWe are therefore obliged to show how they have belonged to \nSwitzerland, and the hindrances they have met in every attempt \nat progress. \n\nThe social life in Graubtinden is farther advanced than in \nValais. They live generally in better houses, have a better \nmenage, and fewer unseemly habits. \n\nBut each valley is distinct from the other, and separated by \nimpenetrable and often unscaleable walls, inhabited by a clan or \ncommunity as unlike those in the others as if they belonged to a \ndifferent nation. \n\nThere are at least thirty of these valleys, in four of which \nthey speak Italian, and in ten German, and in all the others \nRomanish (or a mixture of this with others), a language which \nnumbers six dialects, and which no person except a philologist \nwould ever think of learning. Though the Bible and many \nother books have been translated into Romanish, and there \nis a printing press and two newspapers in the language, it \nis fast disappearing, and German being universally substi- \ntuted. \n\nOf these many valleys and their inhabitants it will be impos- \nsible to say much within our space, and of many of them there \nwould not be much to say if we would. \n\nGraubtinden is the country of contrasts in climate, soil, and \npeople. Five-twelfths of all the glaciers in Switzerland are within \nher limits, there being in all six hundred and five, of which two \nhundred and fifty-five are in this canton. The two great rivers \nare the Rhine and the Inn, the latter of which receives the \n\n\n\nGKAUBUNDEN. 319 \n\nwaters of seventy glaciers, and flows northeast to join the \nDanube and to swell the waters of the Black Sea. \n\nThe Rhine has two sources, the one being not far from the \ncradle of the Rhone, and flowing eastward, and the other far \naway to the south, forming in its northward course the valley of \nthe Spliigeu, both uniting near Chur, or Coire, the capital of \nthe canton. \n\nAt the western extremity of the valley of the Upper Rhine \nis the old Abbey of DistTiiis, the monks of which were the \npioneers of Christianity, and for many centuries princes of the \nempire. Previous to the arrival of Sigisbert, in 1614, there was \na hermitage here, but he erected it into a monastery, and by the \nholy fathers the people were not only taught religion, but agri- \nculture. They extended their authority into the Urseren valley, \nand the first magistrate of that country was consecrated by one \nof their number, the abbot receiving as a sign of subjection a \npair of white gloves, a token of homage which was not dispensed \nwith till 1785. \n\nDuring the early days of Swiss history they were the allies of \nthe house of Hapsburg, and their banner occupied the van at \nthe battle of Morgarten. But later they sided with the people, \nand in 1424 were among the framers of the Grey League, which \nwas solemnized at Trons, beneath the spreading branches of a \nmaple, the decayed trunk of which still stands, cloven and hol- \nlow,* but carefully preserved, and devoutly reverenced as the \nGrutli of Grison liberty. In 1178, they assembled around it \nto renew the oaths of four centuries before, and in 1824 cele- \nbrated with great state the four hundredth anniversary of their \nfirst league. \n\n* One solitary shoot has lately put forth and bears leaves. \n\n\n\n320 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe abbey still exerts great influence in the affairs of the can- \nton, though divested of its former power and magnificence. At \nits base clusters a little village, which is sufficiently humble to \nincrease the imposing appearance of the monastery. The houses \nare of wood, two stories ; small, with very small panes of glass \nfor windows, and a stove, looking like a house by itself. Bdiind \nit is the narrow stairway that leads to the second story, where \nthere is neither sumptuousness nor cleanliness. \n\nThe people look as if indifferent to every thought or subject \nthat interests human beings, yet the first sound of the trumpet \nwould see them rush bravely to battle, and the slightest infringe- \nment of theu\' political liberties would be resisted unto death. \nThey are their own electors, lords, and legislators ; they pay no \ntaxes,* and bow to no superiors. \n\nIn the little villages scattered here and there among the val- \nleys, one is Protestant and another Catholic ; one speaks Ger- \nman, another Romanish, w^ithout any one being able to say \nwhy, though we suppose it must be owing to a different origin. \n\nTheir riches are reckoned according to the number of cows \nthey are able to winter : he who can keep two is not called a \npoor man, and he who can keep eight is rich. The pastures are \nmostly the property of the communes, and rented at so much \neach, the divisions comprising so large a space as will su23port \none milk cow, or what is equivalent, either four calves or six \nsheep, or from eight to twelve goats. Often there is deep snow" \nin midsummer, so that the cows must be kept under shelter many \nsuccessive nights, and always after the middle of August. The \nbarns for the hay are not built in the villages, but at the foot \nof the mountains, to save the trouble of transporting the hay \n\n* There is no direct t.ax in the canton of Graubiinden. \n\n\n\nGKAUBUNDEN. 321 \n\nfrom a great distance. This is usually done on the shoulders of \nwomen, which makes them bent, and old, and haggard, when \nthey should still be young. \n\nThe stalls for the cows are seldom warm, and straw never \nabundant for their beds. Eor each they need from ten to \ntwelve hundredweight of hay, and allow them each day an \nounce of salt. A sheep costs only a tenth or twelfth as much, \nand a goat still less, but they are so injurious to forests where \nthey browse, that in many places the law forbids them to be \nkept at all, and in others limits the number to five or six for \neach family in the commune. In the summer a goat will give \nfrom two to five pounds of milk daily, but in winter very little. \nIt is a curious sight to see them milked, which is done from be- \ntween the legs behind, while they are pulling with all their \nstrength to get away, so that often some one must stand in \nfront and hold them by the head during the whole operation. \n\nAmong the Alpine pastures of Graubiinden are several thou- \nsand ItaUan sheep sent for a summer residence, which pay from \nforty to sixty sous each a season. Their shepherds are seen \nlying upon sunny slopes, sleeping or sentimentaUsing, and when \none is roused by a passing traveller, he looks up with the air of \na somnambuKst awakened on some perilous cliff. If he is asked \nfor bread, he will give the best he has willingly ; but this is very \nlikely so hard that it must be long soaked in water to make it \npossible to break it, and he has no other drinking cup than the \nold hat he wears upon his head, from which he takes copious \ndraughts himself, and not being able to make conversazione in \nhis tongue, sets the wet chajpeaii upon his black locks again, and \nlies down in the sun. This is the climax of simplicity ; we shall \nhave nothing to relate that can excel this picture of shepherd \nlife. \n\n\n\n322 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nIt is idylish too ; but when hunger is ravenous, and miles \nmust be traversed before we can reach a cup of dean water, it \nis something beside I \n\nFrom Chur to Chiavenna are the valleys of the Domleschleg, \nVia Mala, Schams and Rheinwald. But before we enter the \nDomleschleg, we pass through a valley without a name, a part \nof which lies west, and part north of Chur, and contains two \ncities and eleven villages, among which are scattered fifteen \nthousand people, being one-sixth of the whole population of the \ncanton. Here are produced the best wines of eastern Switzer- \nland, and fruits which one sees everywhere prepared and drymg \nin the sun. In agriculture there has been very Uttle progress. \nThey still use the implements of the middle ages, and in this one \nvalley, harness the cows by their heads, while in all other parts\' \nof Switzerland the yoke is placed upon the animals\' necks. Xow \nand then something is done towards u\'rigation ; and canals have \nbeen cut, w^hich are rented for a few sous an hour to any one \nwho will avail themselves of the privilege. \n\nHaying is done first in the villages, and then upon the mount- \nains, w^hen all the inhabitants are seen wending their way up the \nacclivities with scythes and rakes, men, women, and children, \nleaving only a few to keep watch below. Every spire of grass is \nshaven from the knolls, and every herb and green thing gathered \nfor the winter food of the cows, who after all sometimes do not \nhave enough, and when the owners have taken all the pains in \ntheir power to preserve them, are yet compelled to see them \nstarve, without the possibility of saving them. Many are sent \nto the Canton St. Gall to hoard, where they are received into \ncomfortable stables, furnished with enough to eat, and excellent \ncare, for fifty cents a week, which is getting boarded\' very cheap, \nwe think. \n\n\n\nGKATJBUNDEN. 323 \n\nNot far from Mayenfield, on a dizzy height, is the Church of \nSt. Lucius, where they have service eveiy year once, on Ascen- \nsion day, and a rural fete. A little to the right is the village \nof Guschen, where the people have not changed in any custom \nfor ages. But a few years since, the larger portion of them \nemigrated to America, and we doubt not founded one of the \nmany Goshens for which America is famous ; and where they \nwill certainly be clean, at least for a httle time, for the " old \nfamily " dust gets shaken from almost everybody there. \n\nReichnau stands at the junction of the two branches of the \nRhine ; and here we must relate what every traveller has \nrelated before us for half a century, that the school, which had \nnot been long founded, was in 1193 one day visited by a lone \ntraveller, who presented a letter to the principal, which procured \nhim a gracious reception, and the appointment of Professor of \nFrench and Mathematics. This lone traveller was Louis \nPhilippe, then Duke of Chartres. He remained eight months, \nunder the name of Chahot, and in 1854, his Queen, Amelia, \nvisited the castle, and wrote in the album, \'^ Marie Amelie, wife \nof Professor Chalot^ the most leautiful of titles /" Whilst here, \nhe heard of his father\'s death on the scaffold, and the exile of \nhis mother. \n\nOne would think France must be ever the true friend of \nSwitzerland, she has been so often the home of her exiles and \nthe asylum of her fugitives ! \n\nIn the valley of the Domlesch we count twenty-two villages \nand twenty-one castles in the course of sixteen miles ; and here, \nmore than in any other part of Graubiinden, appears the curious \nalternation and intermixture of languages and religions. At \nCoire the language is German, and the religion Protestant ; at \nthe next village, Komanish ; at the two next, they speak Ger- \n\n\n\n324 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nman, but are Catholics ; a little farther on, Romanish is the \nlanguage, and the rehgion Catholic ; then two villages where \nthe religion of both is Catholic, but the language of one Ger- \nman and of the other Romanish ; then several where they are \nProtestant and German ; then several where they are Protes- \ntant and Romanish. \n\nOur postilion speaks these two and Italian, and uses one or \nthe other without cessation ; and in the hotels we hear, in \naddition, French and English. For a little time we are left \nalone in the diligence with a young girl who speaks only Italian, \nand who is very much inclined to talk. Her dress is dreadfully \n\'\' tattered and torn," and her countenance not less forlorn ; and \nshe seems not to have seen in her Ufe a toilette that was better \nthan her own, judging by the admiration she bestowed upon \nours, which would have excited only the contempt of most fine \nladies, being tr^s ordinaire. She asks if we are Eenglish ; and as \nfast as she can speak, adds one question or rem-ark after the \nother : " Have got you any father \xe2\x80\x94 any mother \xe2\x80\x94 any brothers \nand sisters \xe2\x80\x94 where do you live \xe2\x80\x94 where are you going \xe2\x80\x94 what a \npretty bonnet \xe2\x80\x94 what a fine ribbon \xe2\x80\x94 what do you call this (tak- \ning hold of our cloak) \xe2\x80\x94 and this, and this ?" and then she \npouted her full lips and looked down at her rags. She had on \nno bonnet or shawl, yet carried a well-filled purse. We asked \nher also where she was going, and if she had a mother. She \nanswered as rapidly as she had asked questions, and said, \'\' I\'ve \ngot a father and a mother \xe2\x80\x94 ^brothers and sisters \xe2\x80\x94 and a grand- \nmother. I\'m going home \xe2\x80\x94 I live in the Bernardin \xe2\x80\x94 I hate that \npostilion." And alluding to a gentleman who had stepped out \nto walk, she said, in her own language, \'\' Bumpf ein Teufel/\' \nand pouted her lips again. She was not more than sixteen, and \nwas evidently in trouble, to which she was not very resigned. \n\n\n\nGEAUBUNDEN. 325 \n\nSeeing a woman spinning on a little wheel before a door, we \nasked her if she could spin. \'\' Yes, I can spin, and sew and \nbraid straw. Yes, I can ; why not ? can you ?" \n\nAt Spltigen she takes another road, but first bids us farewell \nvery pleasantly, and says she shall not reach home till the next \nmorning, and does not appear particularly rejoiced at reaching \nit at all. \n\nShe seemed to fully appreciate the scenery of the Via Mala ; \nbut when we read over a bridge the inscription, which was \nplaced there just before the great road was opened to travellers, \nwe thought it might have been dispensed with. It says, " The \nroad is to be opened to friends and enemies. Rhetians, be upon \nyour guard ! SimpUcity of manners and unity alone will secure \nyour liberties, the inheritance of your fathers." They are alto- \ngether too tenacious of what they call " simplicity ;" and think \nit is preserving the principles of their ancestors to live in all \nrespects as they lived at a time when there was no other way. \n\nIn the three remaining valleys of the Rhine there are only six \nvillages, and in them all only fourteen hundred inhabitants, all \nof whom are descendants of regiments of Germans who were \nsent there in the middle ages. Those who first came would find \nvery httle to surprise them or excite their wonder if they should \nreturn. \n\nIn the documents of 1211 they are called the free jpeojpk, and \nwere set as the watchmen to guard the mountain passes. They \nhave preserved their language, and changed very little in life or \nmanners. \n\nBut we are lingering too long by the way, and must make a \nleap now and then, or we shall not see half the valleys. \n\nWe will take a seat under the chestnuts that form a shady \ngrove near Castasagna. How changed the scene I It is Sun- \n\n\n\n326 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nday afternoon, and all have been to church, but now, in the \neool of the day, gather together in nature\'s temple. Stone \ntables are placed around, and those who sit by them are furn- \nished with wine, bread, cheese, and sausage ; there is also whey \nand goat\'s milk. The grottoes in the side of the hill have been \nconverted into wine cellars, and are well filled. There are no \nglasses, but large earthen krugs, which are passed from one to \nthe other. The cheese is from the Oler Engadine, where they \nprofess to rival the Gruyere. \n\nThere is also a parsonage tun, that the family of the pastor \nmay enjoy with them the familiar hour. When the meal is fin- \nished, groups are formed for conversation ; old men to talk of \nthe times, and young men and maidens to plan for the future. \nThere is great freedom, but all is orderly though a very Babel \nof tongues. \n\nThey are famous in Graubiinden for travelling into other \nlands to trade, to practise some mechanical art, or to sell knick- \nknacks ; and when they have made what is considered a fortune \nin their native village, to return, and build a fine house, and \nenjoy the old life. So here they are, one who has frozen in \nKussia, another who has burnt beneath a tropical sun, some who \nhave gathered treasures in Brazil, and another who relates his \nadventures in Poland. How eagerly the beardless boy Hstens \nto the marvellous tales ; and one can read on his face, " Oh, \nyes, as soon as I have learned the catechism I too will go out \nin the world." Yery few are allowed to go till they have been \nconfirmed. \n\nThere is a brown and weather-beaten man, who went away \nas a boy, and though he has been in many lands he looks at \nthe pretty maiden opposite as if he were thinking, " Ko where \nelse have I seen any so beautiful." This perhaps is true ; for \n\n\n\nGRAUBUNDEN. 327 \n\nthe maidens of Castasagna are of a peculiar beauty, and though \nthey carry burdens and perform the severest labour, they remain \nlonger youthful than in many other districts, where similar toils \nso early remove every trace of youth and bloom ; they are \ngraceful, and in their fanciful costume a picturesque feature of \ntheir land. \n\nIt is on the Italian borders and has an Italian clime ; the \nlizards are sunning themselves upon the trees, and the scorpion \nhides his head in the wall. The luxurious fruits and flowers of \nthe tropics add their golden hues to the scene ; yet only a few \nsteps farther, beyond the last chestnut-tree, are eternal snows, and \na little farther up the valley is the village of Bondo, into which \nnot a ray of the sun penetrates during three whole winter \nmonths. \n\nCastasagna is the last town on the borders between Switzer- \nland and Lombardy ; and as its name indicates, it is surrounded \nby groves of chestnuts. It is in the valley of the Begraglia, \nwhich extends a few miles into Austria, or, as it must now be \ncalled, Sardinian or Lombardian, territory. Its population is \ntwenty-three thousand, of which three-fifths are women, and they \nsay, of course, many are unmarried, because the men emigrate in \nsuch numbers. Another remarkable fact concerning the same \nvalley is, that it is the only one where the language is Italian \nand the religion Protestant. \n\nThe church in Castasagna is the largest in Switzerland, because \nit was built in 1100 to accommodate those in Lombardy who \nwere not allowed to " worship according to the dictates of their \nown consciences " on their own soil. The service is very plea- \nsantly commenced by twenty or thirty young girls forming a \ncircle around the baptismal font, with as many young men behind \nthem, to sing either a hymn or some rhyming verses from the \n\n\n\n328 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nPsalms of David. When they have finished, they take their \nseats, and the ceremony of baptism is performed. The father \ncomes with a relation who carries the child, attended by five \ngodfathers, the oldest of whom holds the infant, giving the name \nin writing to the clergyman. The congregation sit till the prayer \nbegins, when all rise and bow their heads. The sermon follows, \nby a German, who preaches in bad Italian. \n\nIn the afternoon the children are catechised by the clergyman, \nwho stands by the font whilst they are seated in front, and \nanswer singly and in concert, after which each one is conversed \nwith in a familiar friendly manner. The exercise closes by \nsinging " Psalms and spiritual songs," not artistically, as they \nhave no teacher, but in a way to cheer the heart. \n\nThe houses are of stone, many of them white and pretty. All \nthrough the Rhine valley the patches of maize were to be seen, \nand the farther south we go, the more extensively it is cultivated. \nPolenta is theu\' daily hread, and roasted chestnuts, which they eat \nwith butter and salt, or with cheese, or with oil, or without \nanything, enter into all the compounds of their cookery. If they \nroast meat, the filling is of chestnuts, and if they fry it or boil \nit, chestnuts are in some way made to serve as a sauce. They \nknow how to cook rice and macaroni, and fully appreciate the \nvirtues of buttermilk, which stands about like water for a com- \nmon drink. They also have cherry water, and wine that has ex- \nperienced all the vicissitudes of a century. \n\nNext we will visit the Munsterthal in the southeastern part \non the Tyrolese border. Those who only go in thought will \nhave no anxiety about bears and wolves, or frightful precipices, \nto be encountered by the way ; and those who live here know \nalmost as little, for they are shut in from all the world by gla- \nciers, bold cHfife, and wild forest streams. They say, in order to \n\n\n\nGKAUBUNDEN. 329 \n\nsee their next neighbours in the Engadine, they must go eight \nhours up, and descend as many, which is not often done. \n\nThe name is derived from Mestair, a convent for women of the \nBenedictine order, hke so many others, " founded by Charle- \nmagne." The valley was long the bone of contention between \nAustria and the bishops of Cou\'e, but since the eighteenth cen- \ntury the people have bought themselves free from all pretenders. \nExcept one parish they are Protestants, and their language \nRomanish. \n\nThey are mostly shepherds, too, and like all shepherds, deci- \ndedly opposed to ianovation. Their ambition is limited to seeing \nthe barn full of hay, the granary full of corn, and the cattle in \ngood condition. Their whole hfe is still ordered- after the most \npatriarchal fashion, and to help one another is not less the rule \nthan to take care of themselves. If a new barn or granary is \nto be built, the peasant collects his materials and all the village \nmen come to his aid. Each one knows the use of hammer and \naxe, and the wood costs very little, being cut in the forests and \ntransported on sleds. The helpers take their breakfast and sup- \nper at home, but the dinner is furnished them, and consists of \nbread, and milk, and cheese. Two days are usually sufficient \nfor the prmcipal construction, or if not, a few come the third, \nand are invited to stay to supper, which is luxurious for the \noccasion \xe2\x80\x94 soup, meat, rice, and chestnuts. \n\nIn the country where they grow, chestnuts are to the people \nwhat potatoes are in the more northern climes, and in the \nautumn, from the middle of October to the end of November, \nthe women and children are employed in gathering them, each \nfamily storing often one hundred dollars\' worth. \n\nTlie fattening of snails is also another industry upon the \nItalian borders for those who have so many fast days and still \n\n\n\n330 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nwish abundance of nourishing food. They are placed in an \nenclosure upon beds of sawdust, with water not far off, and fed \nwith leaves till their shells are thick, when they are ready for \npacking. From sixteen to twenty weigh a pound, and each \npound is sold for two or three sous, to be retailed in Italy at one \nsous and a half a snail. The trade in crabs and frogs is not so \nprofitable. \n\nAll winter the spinnmg rooms are in a buzz ; and in the \nspring the scene is the same as in every Alpine land. The pas- \ntures belong to the communes, and the rents go into the common \npurse. In summer the women are almost the only inhabitants \nof the villages, and their toil within and without is very severe. \n\nBut in September, when the herds come back to the valleys, \nthere is great rejoicing. The bailiff of the commune attends to \nthe adjusting of the scales in the Sennhut. On the morning of \nthe day appointed, he mounts to the pastoral counting-room, \nwhere all concerned in his operations have assembled by dawn \nof day ; and immediately the storehouse is opened, and the con- \ntents, which have been for three months accumulating, are \nbrought out \xe2\x80\x94 fat cheeses and meagre cheeses, and cheeses of \nall sizes and names, with great tubs and balls of butter. Forth- \nwith commences such a weighing and reckoning, after the old \nstyle and new, as if all the world were to be portioned. When \nthis is finished, they are heaped upon the wagons and sleds \nwhich are to transport them to the regions below. But the \ntrain is not set in motion till after dinner, which consists of \nbread and milk, whey and sausages. \n\nFrom a flagstaff mounted upon the largest wagon floats a gay \nbanner, not exactly like those woven in the looms of Basle and \nZurich, being, not a coat, but a shawl, of "many colours," \nwhich some sugar-baker or , cofiee-buyer has purchased in Italy \n\n\n\nGRAUBDNDEN. 331 \n\nand brought home to his frau. There is no defect in its flutter, \nand it answers all the purposes for which it is designed, and is \ncalled a flag. \n\nEvery animate and inanhnate thing is wreathed with ever- \ngreens and roses, and the long train moves slowly on, " with \nsong and shout, and festive mirth." When it arrives at a de- \nsignated spot, all is suddenly still \xe2\x80\x94 not a whisper is heard. The \nmen bare their heads, and all fold their hands, and from every \nheart go up the silent thanksgivings to God, who dw^elleth in \nthe Alps, and crowns mountain and valley with his blessings. \nThis is the custom handed down from time immemorial \xe2\x80\x94 this is \nthe w^ay their fathers did. \n\nBefore arriving at the village, two fiddlers place themselves at \nthe head of the train, and thus with their music marshal them \ninto town, where on the market-place they halt, and the wine \ncans are brought, which soon show theii* influence in the songs \nand merriment, which, however, do not last so long that the \ncheese and butter are not deposited in the several cellars to \nwhich they are destined, and, in accordance with the pride of \nMiinsterthaler, before the last year\'s store is quite exhausted. \n\nAt funerals they have no singing, because they say, "songs \nare for joy." There is usually a feast in the room of the corpse, \nwhile a few remain in the meantime apart to weep and wail. \nThe coffin is covered with wreaths, and before it is carried to \nthe grave addresses are made, when theological students make \ntheir first attempts at exhortation. After burial there is ser- \nvice in church, to which the wreaths from the coffin are trans- \nported. \n\nThe Mtgang is called in Graubtinden hengertgehen, and there \nexists a law prohibiting the custom, yet it remains. But it is \nno longer respectable for the visits to be made in a dark room ; \n\n\n\n332 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthe maiden must not only have a light, but an extra candle, \nwith the wick saturated with some ignitible substance, so that it \ncan be easily lighted if an awkward lover snuffs out the other I \nThe curtains must not be drawn, and the door not closed. \nOften, if they see a room dark where they know there is a \nwooer, boys enter unceremoniously, and duck him in the fountain. \n\nPigmies are called in some places dialas, in others " wild peo- \nple," and \'^ mountain-men ;" and here, as elsewhere, they are \nbelieved to make cheese of chamois milk, which are cut and \npartly eaten, and grow again. They supply the hungry with \nfood, and restore lost children whom they find in the woods. \n\nBut there is also a higher trust than this. An old lady lived \nby a wild mountain stream, and built a dam for the protection \nof her cottage and little vegetable patch. But the people \nlaughed, and said, " The first rain will wash it away." The \nrain came, and many which men had built, and which were \nlarge and strong, disappeared in the flood, but the little struc- \nture of the \'widow remained, and she said, " God despises not \nthe prayer of the poor when they call unto Him." \n\nUnion dairies are formed to make cheese of goats\' milk ; for \nin the Mtinsterthal they keep great herds, which are driven home \nevery evening, and to the hills every morning. On Johannistag \nall the young people go with white pails to meet the goatherd \nas he returns to the village, and skipping from goat to goat, rob \nthem of all the milk, which the maidens sell to buy a dress for \nthe ball. The scolding among the frauen is as amusing as the \nsinging among the maidens, when they find how they have been \nrobbed, but there is no help. \n\nFormerly slander was punished by clipping the tongue, and \nmurder and adultery with death ; and whoever set a house on \nfire, or pa,ssed counterfeit money, was burnt to ashes. \n\n\n\nGRATJBCNDEN. 333 \n\nProverbs, like " Love and beefsteak," are the same in all lan- \nguages. " Slow and sure," " Lies have short legs," " Poverty- \nis no shame," " Choose a wife and a cow from the neighbour- \nhood," etc., are in all mouths, whether they speak English, Ger- \nman, or Komanish. \n\nWe must skip over the Engadine, scarcely stopping to \nshake hands by the way. They are a comfortable-looking peo- \nple, very few of them poor, and not a beggar to be seen. They \nare all zealous Protestants, ten thousand in number, except two \nvillages ; and preserve still old Bibles and Prayer-books as heir- \nlooms, on the margins of which are recorded the martyrdoms of \nthe period of the Reformation. They have a proverb, that next \nto God and the sun, the sunple citizen of the Engadine is \nsupreme. They live among the mountains, where another pro- \nverb, says, they have nine months\' winter and three months\' \ncold. Snow often falls in mid-summer, covering the valleys, \nwithout being attended by a white frost ; yet it freezes every \nweek of the year. Seven thousand feet above the sea are pretty \nvillages, though usually at this height are only chalets. The \nhouses are better than elsewhere, because they must make them \nvery tight and warm. The great doors are something like those \nin North Germany, broad enough for a carriage to enter and \npass through to the stable beyond. On the side of this hall are \nthe dweUing-rooms, often very neatly finished with a pecuhar \nwood, having some resemblance to curly maple, being full of \nlittle knots. They saturate it with a preparation of rosin, which \ngives it a shining appearance, and is very agreeable to human \nbeings and very repulsive to vermin, and therefore commendable \nfor all purposes. The windows are very small, and set deep into \nthe walls, which are of stone ; and often are seen pillars and \npretty corridors. These are strange things among Alpine pas- \n\n\n\n334: THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntures ; but the men of these valleys are the Swiss to be seen in \nall lands, engaged in every conceivable employment ; but who \nreturn with their money to enrich their own valley. Many vil- \nlages see in this way their property increased twenty-five or \nthirty thousand dollars\' worth. They always reckon in Grau- \nbtinden "the home and foreign resources or industry ;" and at \nthe last census ten thousand were found absent from the canton \nin this way, never resigning their citizenship. Their pastures \nare rented to Italian shepherds, and the little haying and har- \nvesting is done by the Tyrolese. \n\nThe air is so pure that meat will keep many years ; and fish \nand flesh are hung to dry in the sun from May till October. \n\nThe language is Romanish ; but the wanderers return with \nall the languages of every nation under heaven. \n\nAnother Graubflnden proverb is, " One God, one coatp and \nthere is scarcely more in their costume \xe2\x80\x94 woollen coats, shirts \nand stockings all the year, where it is cold ; and in the Italian \nvillages, often bare feet and legs, with great straw hats, and \nthe women in many colours, and ornaments in their braided \nhair. \n\nOne of the peculiar features of Graubunden is remarked in the \ngallows, which are seen on conspicuous heights overlooking the \nmost beautiful landscapes, as if to make the parting as painful \nas possible to those who were to enjoy from them their last view \nof earth. They are built very strong, of stone, not poor wooden \ngallows by any means, to perish quickly from the earth, but aa \nif to endure for ever. To this a good pastor of Engadine once \nmade allusion when, according to the custom, he was called to \nconsecrate a new one to the holy purpose for which it was built. \nIn his prayer he said, in most emphatic terms, " This gallows, \nwhich we erect for our children and children\'s children :" but we \n\n\n\nGRAUBUNDEN. 335 \n\nhope without ever realizing its blessings in himself or pos- \nterity. \n\nThe valley of Davos was discovered in the thirteenth century \nby some hunters of the land of Vatz, who returned with a glow- \ning description of its beauties, of the game in the forests, and \nfish in the seas, which induced his lordship who lived in the vale \nof Disentis to send people to colonize the new land, and take \npossession of it in his name. \n\nThose who came are said to have been descendants of German \nYallasians ; and the document which secured to them their \nrights is dated 1289, and calls them /ree men, who were only to \npay a certain rent to him who aided them to come, in " cheese, \ncloth, and pigs." The lease was to be good so long as the rent \nwas paid, and they owed no other allegiance. Not a castle \never crowned their hills ; not a lord ever set foot upon their \nsoil. \n\nIn the other cantons we often hear Graubtinden spoken of as \nthe land where boys are kings, or where boys rule, alluding to \nthe early period at which they are allowed to vote and hold \noflBce. Formerly it was at fourteen years of age, but now it is \nat sixteen, that they ex^\'cise the right of suffrage, and are held \nto military service ; but they cannot be elected to office till \ntwenty. \n\nThere are no direct taxes, and no very heavy ones of any \nsort. ; but the restrictions are very numerous to prevent the in- \ngress of foreigners. No Jew, not born in the canton, is allowed \nto enter it ; and the law is not allowed to grant them the \nprivilege. At the last census there was found to be only one \nresiding among them. \n\nThe administration of local affairs differs in different places. \nIn Davos the statute-books exhibit curious enactments, similar \n\n\n\n836 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nto those of the same time m northern Switzerland and Ger- \nmany. \n\nThe old chronicle describes the valley as "lovely, healthy, \nwith fish, flesh, and game, flying and swimming \xe2\x80\xa2/\' and if there \nwas a great hunt, every able-bodied man was^ obliged to go. \nThe trophies of these excursions are still preserved in the \nsaloon of the old Rathhouse in the form of long rows of skulls \nof wolves and bears. \n\nIf any one pulled out the beard of another, he was obliged \nto pay four gulden ; and in an old law-book in Austria, the \npenalty for the same crime was twelve gulden. This we have \nfound in other cantons, proving that it must have been a com- \nmon offence, though for what purpose it was committed one can- \nnot imagine. \n\nThe Kirchweih, or Kilhe, was held at market-time in spring \nand fall, and was made known by a solemn proclamation by the \nLandweibel, saying, *\' My gracious lords, the mayor and council \nof this county of Davos command me to make known," etc. \nWhoever shall be guilty, during this festival, of gaming, dancing, \noaths, or blasphemy, shall be fined a hundred dollars. He who \ncannot pay the fine will be otherwise punished. \n\nIn 168t -dancing was forbidden, as " seducing, frivolous, and \ninjurious ;" but now they may dance in all Graubtinden to their \nheart\'s content. \n\nWhoever knew of an instance of breaking the peace, either \nby an offence against himself or others, was bound to inform \nthe Government, that the offender might be punished at the \nnext court ; but no one was obliged to inform against blood \nrelatives or relatives at law. Also the mayor, jury, and other \nofficers were . required to make known before the high court \nall that they had seen or heard contrary to law, only re- \n\n\n\nGEA.UBUNDEN. 337 \n\nlatives to the third degree not included. This was upon the \nprinciple that each individual, as integral part of the whole, \nshould care for the good of the whole. \n\nAll were not only excused from informing against relatives, but \nwere bound to stand by them " with honour, body, and goods," \n\nAlso in criminal cases no one was obliged to testify against \nrelatives. The criminal court consisting of judge, lawyers, and \nother officers, was held in the open air. They were seated \naround a table, on which was laid a naked sword and staff of \njustice. The seat of the judge was a little raised, and the \nsecretary occupied a place near him with documents. \n\nThe prisoner was conducted from the prison by the Land- \nweibd and six watchmen or guard, and placed before him. \nWhen all was arranged, the mayor solemnly and earnestly \naddressed the court as follows, " Highly respected, noble, \naustere, true, honourable, prudent, wise, especially gracious, \nhighly honoured, merciful rulers, lords and magistrates, com- \nmanded by the holy Bible and the freedom God has given our \nland, which is dependent on no foreign king, prince, or poten- \ntate, to secure the prisoner IN". N., and appoint a day for his \ntrial, we have set apart this day," etc. Here follow various \nformalities common in ordinary courts. \n\nThe judge then turns to the jury, and says, \'\'Under these \nconsiderations I ask, if this be the time and hour, when I, as \nchief justice of this county, in the name of all present, shall \ntake sword and staff in hand, and sit in judgment upon the \nprisoner according to imperial law and the ordinances of our \nfree land ?" * All answer, " Yes." \n\n* Law and oflBcial terms in Switzerland are very difficult to translate, as they are \ndifiFerent from those used by Germans, and as unintelligible to them as to those of any \nother nation, unless it be lawyers. \n\n15 \n\n\n\n338 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe secretary sits at the right, and on all occasions is the \naccuser, because he is also treasurer, and i;he penalties are very \noften fines, which are deposited with him. \n\nYarious addresses are made by the counsel for the State and \nfor the prisoner, and judgment is found. But before it is pro- \nnounced, the judge asks if any one, man or woman, old or \nyoung, spiritual or worldly, has anything to say why favour \nshould be shown. \n\nIf the punishment is to be death, the executioner is instructed \nby which form life is to be taken ; whether he shall conduct the \ncriminal from life to death by fire, and give his ashes to water, \nair, or earth ; whether he shall be broken on the wheel, or \nwhether the wheel shall pass over his neck, etc. The judge then \ntakes the staff, and followed by the court watchmen or guard, \nthe executioner and criminal proceed to the place appointed for \nthe death scene. \n\nThe last sad office we need not describe ; when it is finished, \nhe who has performed it asks the judge if he has fulfilled the \nduties of his ofl&ce according to imperial law and just usages. \nHe answers " Yes." The judge then asks the other officials, \n"If he has found judgment according to imperial law and just \nusages ?" " Yes." " If all concerned have acted according to \nthe dictates of mercy and honour ?" " Yes." Then the judge \nsays solemnly, *\' With God we leave his soul !" and breaks the \nstaff. The mayor then makes a solemn address to the people \nassembled, exhorting the parents to bring up their children in \nthe fear of God and in prayer and industry ; to keep them from \nquarrels, idleness, profanity, and all vices ; exhorts the children \nto obedience, and quotes many texts from the Bible, etc., and \nall return home. \n\nIt was contrary to common custom to break the staff after \n\n\n\nGRAUBITNDEN. 339 \n\nthe full execution, and entirely out of order to repeat continually, \n" according to imperial law," as they had never acknowledged \nemperor or king as lawgiver. But their statutes and formulas \nwere probably prepared by some one who knew little of juris- \nprudence, and that little obtained from German codes of \nCharles Y., which were the basis of all criminal proceedings in \nGermany. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XXI. \n\n\n\nARGOYIE. \n\n\n\nROMAN CITY \xe2\x80\x94 CONVENTS\xe2\x80\x94 ^QUARRKLS \xe2\x80\x94 JEWS \xe2\x80\x94 DARK DAYS OP OLD SCHOOLS \n\nTHREE CANTONAL DIVISIONS \xe2\x80\x94 HOMELESS PEOPLE PEASANT DINNER \n\nFESTIVALS. \n\n\n\nThough there are traces of the Romans in every canton, in none \nhave been found so many illustrations, not only of their power, \nbut of their wealth, their life, and their art, as in Argovie. \nThere was the centre of all their operations against Germany, \nand the entrepdt of their arms and commerce. This is the only \nplace we ever heard of where an aqueduct which they built was \npreserved through all ages and used in modern times. It con- \nducts the water from Mount Brunneck into the city of Yen- \ndinassa, in the same way and for the same purposes as when the \nfamous legions had here their encampment. In tlie same city \nare the ruins of an amphitheatre, where have been found the \nbones of the animals who fought in the arena. \n\nIn another city is an inscription to the honour of Tespasian ; \nand bricks have been picked up having upon them the names \nand numbers of different legions, coins having the effigy of \nLucila, the daughter of Aurelius, mosaics and fresco paintings, \n\n\n\nUQ \n\n\n\nARGOVIE. 341 \n\nmarble vases, pictures and shell work, medals and monies in- \nnumerable. !N"ear Zofingen ^Yas found a parquet, six hundred \nand twenty feet square, of beautiful mosaic, the Roman thermes, \nand a vase of alabaster. In many places are found the ruins of \nbaths, castles, and camps, showing that here was almost another \nRome; and the proofs are not less striking that it was plundered \nby Attila, and destroyed by Childebert. But why were they \ncalled barbarians? Because they pursued their enemies, and \ndemolished their strongholds ? How long since the two " most \nenlightened nations of Christendom " did the same ? using more \ndeadly weapons, and followed by more inhuman consequences, and \nthen offering Te Deums to the Grod of the Bible for their success ! \n\nThe Ambrons, one of the four tribes of Helvetia, were the first \nknown inhabitants of Argovie, and became incorporated with \nthe hordes who came down from the north. The territory \nwas afterwards disputed between Suabia and Burgundia ; and \nin the course of those disputes and conquests, the Dukes of \nHapsburg, originally a noble family in Alsatia, became estab- \nlished in the land. The many convents which dot the hills, and \nwere ^the cause of the war of the Sonderhund in 184Y, were \nbuilt by the princes of this house, and the long wars with the \nbrave men of the forest cantons were in resistance to their unjust \npretensions. \n\nA single tower alone remams of the proud castle which was \nthe cradle of the Imperial House of Austria. The convents, though \ntruly Christian and benevolent institutions in their day, becoming- \nstrongholds of misrule and usurpers of unjust power, were sup- \npressed by the Federal Government, and the property consecrat- \ned to puiposes more in accordance with modern benevolence. \nThree for women still exist, but v>4th many of the features of \nancient nunneries modified. \n\n\n\n342 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe disputes between the two religions in the time of the Re- \nformation were particularly stormy in Argovie ; the French \nrevolution kept them long in a turmoil, and not till 1852 did they \nsucceed in forming a constitution upon a truly republican basis, \nwhen all these conflicting elements settled into harmony. \n\nBut they seem to have a peculiar predisposition to disputes. \nAs in Schaffhausen, they improve the slightest pretence for a quar- \nrel and especially for a lawsuit. The wit of a peasant has become \nproverbial, who, being asked how it had prospered with him the \nlast year, answered, " Oh, thank God, very well ; we have the \nmeans to live and a little remaining, enough to give us the \namusement of a lawsuit during the winter !" This same delight \nin lawsuits prevails also in Tessin, while in Unterwald and Can- \nton Yaud they will manage any way to settle a dispute rather \nthan have the trouble of lawyers. Yet Schaflfhausen and \nArgovie are at the extreme north, and Tessin at the extreme \nsouth of the confederacy. \n\nHalf the number of Jews in all Switzerland dwell in this can- \nton, though she is the most illiberal in her policy towards them. \nNo foreign Jew is allowed to enter, and the natives are confined \nto two or three villages, not allowed the privilege of citizenship, \nand subject to various restrictions which limit their means and \nmust embitter their spirit. \n\nThe Protestants are some twenty thousand more than the \nCatholics ; but they have learned to live in harmony, so that \noften the same church serves both confessions. But before this \npleasant state of things was consummated, in which people \nagree to disagree, both parties passed through many fiery trials, \nand were subjected to all the troubles of those days of lawless \nviolence. \n\nThe ministers of the reformed Church seldom displayed their \n\n\n\nAKGOVIE. 343 \n\nwisdom in attempting to charm their hearers, instead of endea- \nvoring to compel them to adopt the new faith. \n\nIt is related in the chronicles of one village, that the unruly \nyouths, not liking the restraints to which they were likely to be \nsubjected by the pastor of the new doctrine, met stealthily in the \nnight and tore away his grape-vines and pulled up the stakes, so \nthat it cost ninety-three dollars and seventy-five cents to reset \nthem. They destroyed seventy-five bundles of hemp, and stole \nfour thalers\' worth of rosemary after it had been already sold, \nbut not removed by the purchaser ; and filled the well with \nmanure, so that the family were all made sick from drinking \nthe water. At another time, in Passion Week, they stole the \nfishes from the well, carried off twenty fowls, and poisoned the \nwatchdogs before the door. \n\nIn another place, dancing having been forbidden, before peo- \nple could at all understand why or wherefore, the young men and \nmaidens met in the forest in the night for this purpose. The \ngood pastor severely reproved them, and was rewarded by hav- \ning his orchard destroyed and his garden sown with weeds. \nThe people restored them again, but only to see them more \nthoroughly despoiled, the young trees all torn up and the \nhedges burnt. \n\nTwo school teachers, who took the part of the pastor, were \ntreated in a similar manner, and beaten on their way to school. \nOne of them being a musician, found, when he attempted \nto blow his trumpet or similar wind instrument in church on \nSunday, that it was filled with mud. Those and similar perse- \ncutions were continued, till all were obliged to leave. \n\nThese were the events of nearly two centuries ago, Now no \ncanton exhibits the evidences of more universal cultivation than \nArgovie. Her school system is among the best, both for the \n\n\n\n344 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\neducation of children and the higher classes m the district and \ncantonal schools, and there are in all the large villages evening \nclasses for those who are employed during the day. \n\nThe people are distinguished for their progress both in manu- \nfactures and agriculture. As in Zurich and St. Gall, the two go \nhand in hand, and those who braid straw, weave ribbons, and spin \ncotton, devote also a portion of their tune to the soil or kindred \nemployments. The houses of the higher and middle classes are \neverywhere pretty, in the midst of beautiful gardens, groves, and \norchards. When we marvel at the number of fine trees in every \nvillage, by every wayside, we are told of a curious law enacted in \n1806, which made it incumbent upon every man at his marriage \nto plant six trees, and at the birth of every son two more. \nThus from twelve to fifteen thousand were planted every year. \n\nThe general features of agriculture are the same as in Zurich, \nand the Impulse it received, and the improvements made, date to \nthe Napoleonic period, when restrictions were removed, and \ntithes were aboHshed, which gave the profits to the labourer, \nand enabled him to improve his own material condition. \n\nIf there is one thing in which the Argovian takes particular \npride, and in which he particularly excels, it is in the care of his \ncattle. They are elephants in size, and their glossy hides beto- \nken some peculiar art on the part of their master. Not a particle \nof dust or straw is allowed to cling to them, and they are combed \nand washed as only horses are elsewhere, not with a currycomb, \nbut with old cards, which, being finer and softer, are more \nagreeable to the animal, and improve the fineness of the hair. \nThis receives an additional lustre by being rubbed with old flan- \nnel. They actually shine ; and the gentle creatures have an \nevident consciousness of their beauty, for they are careful not to \nsoil then- ashy grey and chestnut robes by lying in the mud when \n\n\n\nABGOVIE. 345 \n\nallowed to take a walk. Animals can acquire, if they have not \nby nature, a fine sensibility, and when they have once experienced \nthe pleasant sensation of cleanliness, learn to take care of them- \nselves. \n\nAt the farther end of every stable is a goat, who lives upon \nwhat the cows scatter about, and who is kept there also because \nthe peasants believe if witches are disposed to exert any evil \ninfluence within their precincts, the little animal will prove a sort \nof smpe-goaf, and their beautiful cows pass unharmed. \n\nNot only do they exercise this care for the person of the ani- \nmal, but are at the pains of removing every feather and other \nunpalatable substance from their food ; and the water-troughs \nwhere they drink are kept as clean as if human beings resorted \nto them. \n\nIf anybody doubts the efficacy of these means, let him come \nand see not only how large, but how intelhgent, these dumb \ncreatures look ; how they watch every motion of those who talk \nto them, and listen to all they say. What an affectionate moan \nthey will utter to welcome the milkers, who are always men, as \nthey say, \'\'Women tickle the cow, and never take all the milk \nfrom the udders, so that she gives less and less." It is said of \nthem, that an Argovian will send for the doctor for his cow a \ngreat deal quicker than for his wife ! but we did not see any \nevidence that he was not sufficiently attentive to both. \n\nAlas, were it not for the eau de vie, the distilleries everywhere \nin Switzerland, the people might be transformed almost instan- \ntaneously into inhabitants of an Utopia. This is their besetting \nsin, the one remaining curse, the bhght and plague-spot of the \nland. They have attempted to make a law in Berne, where \nthis evil is greatest, that the grain which is needed for bread \nshall not be converted into brandy. But the people consider it \n\n15* \n\n\n\n34:6 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nan invasion of rights and privileges that they should not be \nallowed to do what they please with their own, though it be to \ncommit suicide and murder. \n\nThe thl\'ee grand rivers, the Keuss, the Limmat, and the Aar, \nunite in Canton Argovie, and flow on together to the Rhine, \nwhich they join near Coblentz, a little town on its northernmost \nlimits. By these four distinct divisions are made, which are \nindicated by the peculiar lines upon their escutcheon. The first \nis vertical, dividing it into two fields, the one black, denoting a \nfruitful land, like Argau proper. Through this crosswise a sil- \nver stream flows. The other field is blue, and three stars in its \ncentre indicate the other three divisions. It is one of the preti- \nest among the cantons. \n\nThese divisions mark also a people quite distinct from one \nanother. In the Fruckthal, where they belonged so long to \nAustria, not being fairly ceded to Switzerland till 1802, they \nhave not yet become enth-ely Swiss in feeling.^ The dress of the \nmaidens is like that in the Black Forest, while in all the rest of \nArgovie it is like the Bernese. In all the canton, too, they \nhave the old German custom of watchmen, who traverse the \nstreets every hour of the night, and cry, " Listen to my words, \nit is the hour. Extinguish the fires, and may God have us in \nhis holy keeping." \n\nThere is everywhere in Switzerland a class of people whom \nthey call heimathlos, or homeless people, by which they mean \nthose who do not enjoy all, or any, of the rights of citizenship. \nIn Argovie, not only the Jews belong to this class, but those \nwho transact business and live in the canton without purchasing \ncitizenship, soldiers who have formed acquaintance with Swiss in \nforeign service, and return with them fugitives and pilgrims. Of \nthese last there are very many, as Argovie is the highway to \n\n\n\nARGOVIE. 347 \n\nEinsiedeln, for those who come from Germany ; and poor and \nmiserable as they are, it is said they spend by the way in this \ncanton alone upwards of five hundred thousand dollars. Many \nwomen are in their train, who come with a cradle upon their \nshoulders, and leave the little ones in sheds and barns, and \nsometimes in the open field, where they are picked up by the \ninhabitants and taken good care of, but still are classed all their \nlives among the homeless, because they were not born upan the \nsoil. They may have a ri^ht to vote in village affairs, but not \nin cantonal. \n\nBesides, there are many who are not admitted to the ordi- \nnary privileges of villagers, never having been able to pay the \nhundred dollars necessary to purchase citizenship, and who can- \nnot marry till they do. They are often very poor and vicious, \nand it is considered a reproach upon the constitution of Argovie \nthat she is thus illiberal to so many. \n\nThe old-fashioned houses, and those of the poor, are still very \ncomfortless, but the modern ones are ample and commodious. \nAmong the farmers, granary, threshing-floor, and family are \nunder the same roof, which has the great gable end extending \nout many feet to act as protector to the ploughs, harrows, and \nother utensils which are stored underneath, and which makes \nthe rooms very dark, but adds to their warmth in winter. \n\nThe spout of clear running water is making music in front of \nevery door, which is a luxury not so difl&cult to obtain in Swit- \nzerland, as they have only to dig a few feet to find a spring, \nwhich never fails. Under the windows is usually a bench, where \nthe neighbours meet to gossip, and a " beehive humming near." \n\nThe garden is fenced around, and the beds are in squares, \nmeasured, as we have seen them a thousand times in New Eng- \nland, by a man who winds a rope upon a long wooden peg, and \n\n\n\n348 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntying the other to a sunilar one, places it firmly in the earth, \nand going to the other end makes a straight line, and then with \na hoe smooths the earth against the rope, forming a pretty bor- \nder. With the hoe-handle he makes a furrow for the flower \nseeds, which are distributed according to the taste of some fair \nlady who stands by to superintend. In a few weeks tulips and \nToses and lupins are blooming, as rehef to cabbages, beets, and \nparsnips, and in the autumn the bright marigolds and queenly \ndahlias appear in a luxuriance we never saw in any land. \n\nThe beet beds are a speciaUty in Argovie, and are kept in \nJ roducing order the whole summer. The good frauen have also \na special way of preparing them. Besides using the tender \nleaves for salad, they plunge them in boiling water a few min- \nutes, then in cold, to destroy the herh taste they would other- \nwise have, shake and wring them dry, then chopping them fine, \nmix them with onions, and boil them till soft. \n\nBerries are also in the greatest abundance, fresh in their sea- \nson, dried and preserved. Like the New England housewife, \ntoo, they provide for the thirst of warm days and for the sick, \nthe deUcious raspberry shrub. Meat is not an every day luxury, \nand their fat beeves are seldom served for their owti tables. \nThe old fashioned etiquette at a peasant dinner is also a little \ndifferent from what we have seen elsewhere. \n\nThe cloth being spread, a dish of potatoes is set on, and one \nlaid by each plate. The cook then brings a smoking pan of \nsoup, when the family are called to dinner, and each \xe2\x80\xa2 one helps \nhimself to a spoon from a row hanging against the wall, and \nstanding by his chair, asks a blessing. Then seating himself, he \nplaces his elbows on the table, and guides the soup from the \ncommon dish to his mouth as skilfully as may be. After which \neach one peels his potato ; other vegetables are brought, and \n\n\n\nAKGOVIE. 349 \n\npear sauce for dessert. On festival days and Sundays the frau \nbrings a bit of meat, which is usually pork, and cutting it, \nreaches to each one a piece with her fork. \n\nIn the winter the supper is milk porridge, and in summer \npotatoes with salad. Now and then the children rejoice be- \ncause they are to have pancakes, and on fete days other good \nthings are baked at home or in the village bakery. One time, \nwhen there was a failure of crops, and bread was scarce, the \nGovernment furnished the people with rice, but they did not \nknow how to cook it, and there was nobody to teach them, so it \nproved a useless benevolence. \n\nIt was owing to the efforts of a pastor of Kirchberg that \nfruits and berries were introduced into every garden, and among \nthe mechanics and higher classes ; the white cottages and green \nblinds dot the country, looking so picturesque, surrounded by \norchards, or in the midst of groves, around which the little rills \nmeander for the convenience of supplying the thirsty earth in a \nsummer\'s drought, while the gardens are luxuriant with currants, \nstrawberries, gooseberries, peaches, pears, apricots, and grapes. \n\nWalnuts and hazel-nuts afford the children a merry pastime in \nthe autumn in the gathering time, and all winter to crack them \naround the great stove in the long evenings. \n\nIn the Fruckthal there are no manufactories, and the people \ngo over the Jura to Aarau to market. They must walk several \nmiles, and yet seven o\'clock finds them already there, with laden \nbaskets, the productions of their orchards and their dairies, to \nexchange for the silk,- the calico, the paper, or other fabrics for \nwhich the city is famed. \n\nIn the reign of Catholic Mary the persecuted English took \nrefuge here, and it welcomed a colony of Huguenots, who \nrewarded the city for its hospitaUly by teaching many arts. \n\n\n\n350 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe cutlery is almost equal to that of Sheffield, and the founde- \nries make bells of wondrous tone. \n\nThe people of the manufacturing towns of Switzerland are at \nleast no more miserable than those of other places. The gar- \nrets and cellars are not crowded with a wretched class crying \nfor food ; but those who spin and weave are, on the whole, in a \nlittle better condition than those who do not In the beautiful \nfactory in Windegg, every room for spinning, dyeing, and bleach- \ning, is ventilated, and contains many other pleasant arrange, \nments that make it second to none on the Continent, not only \nfor accomplishing all its legitimate purposes, but for securing \nhealth and happiness to those who toil within its walls. \n\nIn Wolilen are great straw-braiding establishments, which \nsend thousands of hats to America ; and many industries of less \nimportance are scattered throughout the canton. Argovie and \nZurich are rival cantons. Being nearly of the same size, and \noccupying the same position with reference to longitude and \nlatitude, standing side by side, there is no reason why they \nshould not be equal in all things. Zurich is called the modern \nAthens^ and Argovie the culture canton, both from the attention \nthey pay to the advancement of education and all mental cul- \ntm\'e. \n\nFor her many societies for improvement Argovie is indebted \nin great measure to her historian and poet, Henry ZscJioJike, who \nlived in a pretty villa near Aarau, and died there in 1848, at \nthe age of seventy-seven. He was one of the Republicans of \n1830 who contributed by his writings to the great political \nchanges throughout Switzerland, which have resulted in better \nGovernments, and a true equality and liberty, that could be the \nonly guarantee for order and unity. \n\nThe Argovians have produced many historians, philosophers, \n\n\n\nAEGOVIE. 351 \n\nand theologians. Hassler, one of their distinguished engineers, \nand author of eminent treatises upon astronomy and trigono- \nmetry, was in the employment of the Government of the United \nStates from 1811 to 1843, when he died, having been for \ntwenty years Superintendent of the Coast Survey. The beauti- \nful paintings upon glass in some of their own cathedrals, and in \nother lands, were executed by native artists. \n\nWe heard an English lady ask a gentleman one day, "if \nSwitzerland had ever produced any authors or artists of merit." \nHe answered, " No." It seems very ridiculous to think of being \nobhged to prove what all people of ordinary reading and intelli- \ngence must know ; but when we ventured to say, " Why, yes, \nvery many," it was still asserted that they were all foreigners \nwho had fled to them for refuge. \n\nIn each chapter we have alluded to a few, but to repeat their \nnames in the httle space we have to devote, is giving no true \nidea of their number or importance. \n\nMusic is not less cultivated in Argovie than in Zurich, and \nthe unions of different societies are occasions of pleasa.nt festi- \nvals in city and country. \n\nSport-loving boys Hght the carnival fires on the hills the same \nas in other cantons ; and the remnants of many old customs are \nseen in modern dress, where the spirit of the times require-s a \nlittle modifying of unseemly ways. On the first morning of \nMay, lovers stand afar off to behold the surprise of the fair \nmaidens, before whose windows they have erected a young fir- \ntree in the night, decked with ribbons and flowers, and are sure \nto receive an invitation to a fete within as a reward. \n\nThe conventionalities of the Kiltgang allow the lover to enter \nthe chamber of his fair one, and to climb to it by the grape trellis \nor any other convenience from without ; and if a stranger comes \n\n\n\n352 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ninto their midst, and plays kilter with any village damsel, he is \nsure to be waylaid and beaten, till he is in no fit condition for \nmany weeks to repeat his visits. \n\nBut what is called the youWs feast is the national f^te of \nArgovie. On the evening before it is held, the children are at \nevery door and garden fence begging flowers. The next morning \nthey appear in wreaths and bouquets and dresses of white, ready \nfor a procession, which is formed by the teachers of schools at \neight o\'clock, who walk with theii\' pupils ; the parents, friends, \nand officials joining, as they pass, till they reach the church. \nThe military arrange themselves in rows each side of the door, \nand musicians play martial music till the moment before service \nbegins, when the organ peals forth, and the choir perform a \nseries of solos, duets, and choruses, for which they have spent \nweeks in preparing. Then follows a sermon and other religious \nservices, when two youths display their oratory in some original \nspeeches, for which they have also been long practising ; and \nmusic again is the signal for the returning procession. \n\nThe dinners are private but festal, the church, houses, and \nstreets being wreathed with garlands, and all labour suspended \namong high and low. After dinner comes the grand military \nreview for the soldiers to exhibit their tactics, which finishes by \na sham-fight and siege, and of coui\'se a victory, where there is \nonly an imaginary enemy ; when all repair to a neighbouring \ngrove for a picnic, where pretty maidens are the waiters, and \nthe tables in the gayest of all attire. Dances close the scene, in \nwhich old and young join, till it grows dark, when they disperse, \nthe little folk having enjoyed a day never to be forgotten, and \nsuch a one as should be permitted to all children now and then ; \nfor neither in the song, or dance, or merriment, is there anything \nto which the most fastidious can object. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XXII. \n\nTESSINO. \n\nITALIAN SKIES \xe2\x80\x94 GOVERNMENTS \xe2\x80\x94 CLERGY \xe2\x80\x94 EDUCATION \xe2\x80\x94 CHURCH BELLS \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nPEASANT HOUSES \xe2\x80\x94 COSTUMES FAIRS \xe2\x80\x94 MINES \xe2\x80\x94 AGRICULTURAL FETE DAYS \n\nMARRIAGES DISTINGUISHED MEN. \n\nWe are in Tessino, among the children of the sun, shaded by- \ngroves of chestnuts, inhaling the perfume of the citron and the \norange \xe2\x80\x94 in the land of the olive, the fig, and the pomegranate. \nThere is everywhere a luxuriance of foliage, and over all a mel- \nlowness of tint, and around us a softness of temperature only to \nbe found beneath Italian skies. The language has no more the \nharsh gutturals of the northern tongue, but flows like some \ngentle rivulet over golden sands. Nature has made it a land \nof beauty and of glory ; what shall we find it at the hand of \nman I \n\nA Swiss author, who wrote in 1191, says, " A German-Swiss \npig would not enter where a Tessino family lives." This was \nmore than half a century ago ; since then they have made many- \nimprovements. Wise and strong men have taken a seat in their \ncouncils, and vigorous measures have proved the efficiency of \ntheir government. They have had one of their own but a little \n\n853 \n\n\n\n354 THE eOTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nwhile, having in 1498 voluntarily placed themselves under the \nprotection and government of the Forest Cantons, to be ruled \nby bailiffs sent to them from Uri, Schwytz, and Unterwalden. \nNear Bellizona are the three castles Avhich were occupied by \nthese republican rulers, who were often as exacting and tyranni- \ncal as any delegate of Austrian despotism. As in Thurgovie, \nthey purchased their offices at a great price, and remunerated \nthemselves by unjust taxes and all manner of fraudulent imposi- \ntions upon the peeple. This is an experience which all nations \nhave which are governed by agents accountable to a power in a \ndistant land, which can have no real knowledge of the wants of \nthose over whom they rule, and never learn whether those whom \nthey delegate, administer justice or exercise tyranny.\' \n\nBefore they belonged to Switzerland, they were taken posses- \nsion of by cities and districts and parcelled among those who \nconquered them. Charlemagne passed through Locarno in 882, \nand gave this city as a present to his Avife Engelberga. King- \nHenry, in the eleventh century, gave Bellizona to the Bishop \nof Como, disposed of all the other cities in the same unceremo- \nnious manner, and afterwards kept the people in continual \nquarrels, as kings and bishops disputed the right to each other\'s \npossessions. \n\nAs the other cantons joined the Confederacy, they partici- \npated in the government, and each had the privilege of furnish- \ning a bailiff for Tessino, so that it came to be ruled by deputies \nand bailiffs, who met every year, and formed what they called a \nSyndic, for the administration of affairs. This administration \nwas little else than cruelty and anarchy ; and towards the end \nof the eighteenth century we find them attempting to get rid of \ntheir foreign rulers, to form a government of their own. This \nwas accomplished by Napoleon, by whom Tessino was invited \n\n\n\nTESsmo. 355 \n\nto send a deputy to meet those from the other cantons, to decide \nupon tJhie best government for the whole. The eight bailifdoms \nwere formed into one canton ; and they immediately commenced \nforming a constitution, which was not finished to the satisfaction \nof all till 1880. \n\nBut as soon as they were delivered from a foreign yoke, \nunder which no people ever exhibited energy and inteUigence, \nwhether it be a repubUcan or an imperial bondage, they awak- \nened, and proved that they are worthy of freedom in the pro- \ngress they have made, though it has necessarily been slow. \nWith the work of centuries to do in a few years, they have \noften excited the opposition of the people by taxes to build \nroads, bridges, and execute other public works, which were very \nexpensive. \n\nThose who have been accustomed to think of Switzerland as \na confederacy for three hundred years, with the same freedom \nand efficiency as America possessed from the moment of her \nbirth, will see that there is good reason, without its being a re- \nproach, why she is far behind the republic of only half a cen- \ntury. \n\nIn Tessino now their greatest hindrance is the clergy, who \nprefer to keep the people in ignorance, and are yet too \nnumerous and too powerful to be overcome. In 1853, the Go- \nvernment ventured to suppress a convent of Capuchins, who \nwere a disgrace to their profession and a curse to the country, \nand, with provision for their journey, banished them from the \ncanton. They went into the Austrian territory, and this noble, \nenlightened, Christian Government of the nineteenth century, \nvisited all the Tessinians of Lombardy, in revenge, with confisca- \ntion and banishment. Six thousand people were turned out of \ntheir peaceful homes in the depth of winter, deprived of all \n\n\n\n356 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nresources ; the property which they had accumulated by industry \nforcibly taken possession of, and themselves driven to seek an \nasylum where they might. After two years\' negotiations, and \nthe paying of a stipulated salary to those infamous monks, the \nLombardian territory was again opened to the citizens of Tes- \nsino. \n\nMany people from this canton go away for a season, as in \nGraubtinden, to exercise some trade, remaining a few months, \nand sometimes years, but continuing citizens of Tessino, and \nreturning eventually to spend their days in the land of their \nbirth. \n\nThrongs of stone-hewers and bricklayers go to Italy in the \nspring, and return in the autumn, while those who sell roast \nchestnuts go in the fall, and return in the spring ; and also the \ncattle-dealers, and swarms of porters, to fill the hotels, to wait \nupon the English and Americans, who are seen also in throngs \nentering Italy in the autumn, and departing in the spring, but \nto spend money rather than to earn it. \n\nThey have been petitioning twenty years to have the canton \nformed into a distinct bishopric, but in vain. A third of it \nbelongs to the diocese of Milan, and the remainder to that of \nComo, the bishop of which derives thence his principal revenues. \nThey have also petitioned to be relieved from the observance of \nmany festivals ; but though the people of Lombardy had their \nprayers granted in this respect, the favour was refused to Tes- \nsino. They have thirty more fete days than theh neighbours, \nand are kept in such a round of festivities, that they are im- \npoverished by the loss of time and waste of substance thus \ninvolved. \n\nIn 1848, when the convents of Argovie were suppressed by \nthe Federal Government, some in Tessino were also secularised, \n\n\n\nTESSINO. 357 \n\nbut there are still twenty remaining, and a church for every one \nhundred and seventy individuals, with six hundred priests, exclu- \nsive of the monks. \n\nIt is the canton where the least is done for education ; \nindeed, the only one where nothing is done at all. But they are \nnow again trying to establish the system so efficiently and bene- \nficially carried out elsewhere, with some hopes of success. \n\nThey have lately lost one of their noblest citizens, M..rrans- \ncini, who had been many years a deputy to the Federal \nCouncil, and all his life engaged in some way in promotmg the \ngood of his country. It is from his voluminous and laboriously \nprepared works that we glean all that is statistical concerning \nSwitzerland. He mourned as for a lost son the degeneracy of \nhis people. But we hope his mantle has fallen upon some one \nwho will go forth with new strength to the great work which \nhe began. \n\nThere are colleges in some of the monasteries ; but they are \nmostly for the education of ecclesiastics, and the nuns in many \nplaces do something for the cultivation of young ladies ; but \nthere are scarcely five hundred youths of both sexes who are \npursuing scientific and literary studies either at home or abroad. \n\nThe sound of church bells becomes almost a torture in the \ncities, there being in all the church towers about one thousand \nfive hundred. Some of them ring every hour, and others at \nappointed tunes, and all every evening, till one is puzzled to \nknow whether it is night or morning, especially as, according to \nthe old fashion, many of the clocks still strike twenty-four times \nfor the hours of the day instead of twice twelve, beginning the \nday at six in the evening, so that at seven by other people\'s \nclocks it strikes one, and at eight two, etc., by those of Tessino. \n\nIn the evening, ladies are seen promenading or riding, but all \n\n\n\n358 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nday they are invisible, unless some in long black veils are return- \ning from mass in the early morning. Yet beauty is not all con- \ncealed beneath veils. The women who go clattering with san- \ndals upon their feet, without stockings, and with the most \nneglige costume, are often very beautiful. They sit upon a stone \nor bench or under a tree all the day with their little ones in \ntheir arms, for whom they perform all motherly offices, evidently \nfeeling that in those " holy duties " there is neither sin nor shame. \n\nIn Bellizona the houses are mostly of woods, and each family \noccupies one, instead of being confined to a few rooms as in \ngreat cities. The three picturesque castles which overlook the \ncity, formerly the residences of the three bailiffs of the forest \ncantons, are Castel Grand of Uri, which is now used for an \narsenal ; Castel di Mezzo belonged to Schwytz, and Castel di \nLune, which is in ruins, to Unterwald. The other two cities \nform with Bellizona an acute angled triangle, Lugano being at \nthe point and upon the lake of the same name. Its situation is \na little similar to that of Luzerno ; but how differently the \nsloping hills are clad. Along its shores are scattered the little \nvillages, in the midst of groves of olive, almond, and citron, \nwhich are reflected upon the crystal surface of the lake, thus \npresenting at the same moment a lovely landscape and a picture \nin water colours such as no pencil can trace. \n\nThe vines clothe all the southern part of the canton, some- \ntimes being placed in regular rows in the fields, and sometimes \nclimbing elms and mulberries, and winding their careless \nbranches from lunb to limb, while the clusters droop beneath, \nforming arches of gold and purple fruit. In the region of \nLugano they are creeping over lattices, and sometimes formed \ninto terraces. Opposite the city rises Mount Caprino, the base \nof which is full of grottoes, which they call the Caves of Eolus, \n\n\n\nTESSINO. 359 \n\nbecause in summer a cold wind blows continually across. Here \nthey have built small stone houses for their wine, where it is \npreserved always cool, and where they come themselves to \npromenade on pleasant summer evenings. \n\nThe burgher houses in the surrounding country are large, \nwith great balconies, which they use as sitting-rooms, shaded by \ncurtains of tobacco-leaves drying in the sun. The peasant-wo- \nmen are seen everywhere in bright green or yellow raw silk \nskirts, with many folds, and bodice of the same or difTerent \ncolour, laced across the bosom with cords or ribbons. The \nsleeves are also in two parts, tied with bows of many colours. \nThe hair is braided, and wound into the form of a great nest, \nwith gold or silver pins placed in a half circle around the upper \npart of the braid, the large heads forming thus a kind of crown. \nWe have seen this adopted by American ladies, who call it an \n" Itahan costume," and who might have seen it worn by an \nItalian princess. The men still appear in small clothes of cha- \nmois and scarlet vests ; but all peculiar modes are fast giving \nway, even in this sunny land, to the sombre hues and plain stuffs \nof sober climes. \n\nShoes and stockings are only worn on festival days, and wo- \nmen may be seen bending beneath heavy burdens, wandering \nbarefoot through the hot sand. Ornaments of gold and silver \nfor those who can afford it, and tinsel for the poorer classes, are \nseen everywhere ; a cross upon the breast, and a chain of gar- \nnets, alternating with buttons of gold thread, upon the neck. \n\nThe clergy preach against finery, but it is the better class \nthat wears it ; for those who do not spend their money in ways \nmore demoralizmg \xe2\x80\x94 in low drunkenness and revelry ; while a \ntaste for a pretty and neat attire is evidence of a little higher \ngrade of mind and ambition. \n\n\n\n360 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nA stone pier connects Lugano with Menclriso across the lake, \nwhich, with the bridges at the two extremities, cost one hundred \nand thkty thousand dollars, and was finished in 1845. It was \none of the pubhc works which the Government found it difficult \nto accompUsh, with its new power and scanty purse ; but which \nmust in time repay them by facilitating communication with \nItaly for the merchandise and thousands of travellers who pass \nthis way. \n\nLocarno is situated on the beautiful Lago Maggiore, only a \nsmall extent of which lies within Swiss temtory. This is the \ncity from which emigrated in 1553 the persecuted Protestants, \nwho took refuge in Zurich, and transferred their looms, and, as \nit would seem, all the enterprise of the town. It has never \nsince prospered. The Pope endeavoured to increase the severity \nof the sentence, and commanded the Diet to confiscate their pro- \nperty, and oblige them to leave their children, to be educated in \nthe Romish Church. But, as usual, the Diet refused to comply \nany farther than it chose with demands of pope or bishop. The \nPope was enraged, and published bans and hulls against them, \nwhich they heeded in the same way. It was enough that the \npoor people were obliged to leave their homes, and the sacrifices \nwere great, though they lost not all. Two centuries later, we \nfind the descendants of these banished silk weavers extending \ntheir commerce from Germany to Lombardy, and visiting the" \nfairs of Frankfort and Italy with the stuffs which should have \nbeen woven in Locarno. Another of them established a cotton \nfactory in Piedmont in 1812, taking with him two hundred \nSwiss, some of them whole families. He set up his looms in an \nold castle, and the buzz might have aroused the old knights who \nonce revelled there from their death slumbers, and certamly \nwould, if awaking had been possible, at seeing such a desecra- \n\n\n\nTESSINO. 361 \n\ntioii of their lordly halls. There were spinners and weavers, \nand dyers and bleachers, scattered among the various saloons \nand corridors, and though they were once nearly overturned by \na landslide, attacked by soldiers, and undermined by the ma- \nchinations of priests, nothing daunted them ; they spun away, \nand when their founder died, in 1843, twelve thousand persons \nwere employed in his castle mills ! \n\nNow there is a fair every fortnight in Locarno, at which ap- \npear all the costumes of the country, and all the productions of \ntheir soil. Every year in October there is also a cattle fair, the \nlargest in Switzerland, to which are driven from all the northern \ncantons those they have been so carefully training, and which \ncome in troops of hundreds and thousands, most of them over \nthe St. Gothard, and also some ten thousand horses, to meet \nthe purchasers from Italy. \n\nIt was instituted as early as 1513. Afterwards a rival fair \nwas commenced at another village, that caused dissensions which \nlasted thirty years, but were finally settled by convention. \n\nOn all the borders of the lakes the plants which we have \nbeen accustomed to tend so carefully in greenhouses are flourish- \ning, and in far greater luxuriance, in the open air ; and the gar- \ndens of the villas are gorgeous with bloom, and made beautiful \nby taste and art. \n\nBut what a contrast are the houses of the poor ; in many \nplaces rows of miserable huts of stone, with no mortar to cover \ntheir rudeness, no chimney, and black with soot and dust. In \nGermany and North Switzerland the floors are bare, but they \nare universally clean. Here they are carpeted with mud, whicli \nhas never come in contact with water. The cattle are in sepa- \nrate huts, but so near that the pigs, which are red, may be often \n\n16 \n\n\n\n362 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nseen putting their noses in the dinner which stands cooked npon \nthe hearth. \n\nIn the valley of Maggio and Blenio there will be rows of mise- \nrable houses for human beings, and opposite rows of very good- \nlooking stables for the cattle. \n\nA part of every establishment is an inclosure for drjdng chest- \nnuts, where a fire must be made. There is to almost every \nhouse a patch of tobacco and of Turkish corn, a small species, \nwhich is sown and gathered in the course of forty days. Often \nover these wretched huts the acacia waves, and the fig-tree, \nwith its luxurious foliage, tries to screen their dingy walls. To \nsee the fruit of this tree in its green state, one could scarcely \nbeheve it could be the same as the contents of the little drums \nwhich we are accustomed to eat. Its shape is something like a \npear, and the outer coat green, but within it is a pulp or consis- \ntency something like what children call a mealy apple, and of a \nmost beautiful rose colour. But the taste is horrible. The \nmanner of packing them for exportation would not increase the \nrelish to those who eat them, and as we do not wish to destroy \nthis pleasure, we leave the process to be imagined, being quite \nsm*e no imagination will exaggerate the reality. \n\nAll the implements of agriculture are after the mode which \nmight have been in vogue . before the flood, \xe2\x80\x94 a wooden rake \ninstead of a harrow, and something called a plough, di\'awn by \noxen or perhaps hy woTnen, with wide fringes to their skirts, long \naprons, and caps like nuns. \n\nThe grain, after being cut, is not left upon the ground, but \nhung upon an apparatus for the purpose, that gives it the \nappearance of being a straw roof, with the sheaves lying one \nabove another in layers, shedding rain readily, and exposed \n\n\n\nTESSINO. 363 \n\nto the sun and wind. In fourteen days it is threshed without \never being put in barns, of which they have no need. \n\nThis picture gives the idea of poverty, but there is no reason \nwhy the people should be poor. Maize thrives better in Tes- \nsino than in Italy, yielding two or three fold more at harvest, \nand, where well cultivated, from eight to twelve fold. Potatoes \nyield eight to ten fold, and, with favourable soil and good care, \nfrom twenty to sixty fold, and this without any modern im- \nprovements of draining, irrigation, or scientific culture. \n\nThe mechanics form only an eighth or ninth part of the \npopulation, and then practise agriculture a portion of their time. \nFour thousand persons are absent a whole or part of the year \nexercising trades in other lands. \n\nWhere chestnuts grow they are often eaten twice a day, \nboiled or roasted, for many months. They also have polenta in \nvarious forms, boiled, baked, and dried, and besides, figs, \npeaches, pears, plums, cherries, and apricots are in the greatest \nabundance. Yet they grow without care, and gardens among \nthe peasantry have no attention. They have a superstitious \nprejudice against flowers, but, as it would seem, none against \nweeds. \n\nEvery family has a red pig, and in the autumn it is slaugh- \ntered and salted for the winter, but in the summer they seldom \neat meat. Sometimes a poor widow hires a few goats for then* \nmilk, and to furnish something to do for her boys. They are \nvalued, and at the end of the time for which she has taken them, \nthree or four years, they must be returned, or their worth in \nmoney. Fishing and hunting are everywhere free. \n\nBesides thirty holidays more than the people of Lombardy \nare obliged to observe, they also have many more processions, \nblessings, and days when they are obliged to spend an hour or \n\n\n\n364: THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nmore in churcli, besides the daily mass, and all ordinary fetes. \nNot to exaggerate, we may say there are five whole days and \nfifteen half days spent in this way by fifty thousand working \npeople of all ages and both sexes. This makes two hundred and \nfifty thousand days lost to labour by the people themselves. \nBut the working annuals are also unemployed ; the hammer is \nstill, the plane moves not, and the saw-mill is dumb. On these \ndays they eat and drink more than on other days, and the priests \nconfess that most of the time is spent in idleness and dissipation. \n\nAt the ceremony of baptism a great parade is made, if it be a \nboy, but for gii*ls not any ! Costly gifts are made to the new \nmother, the bells are rung, and a procession escorts the infant to \nthe font. \n\nWeddings take place usually early in the morning or late in \nthe evening, and are often solemnized between boys of seventeen \nand girls of fifteen. Sometimes the bridegroom, at the head of \na long train of relations, knocks at the door of the bride. A \nperson within calls out, \'\' Who is there, and what do you wish ?" \nAfter a long parley, an old woman opens the door ; but those \nwithout are not satisfied till they enter. Being expected, the bride \nis arrayed for church, and with her relations joins the procession, \nthe mother remainmg at home to prepare supper. The wedding- \nring is never removed from the finger. \n\nBetrothals are public, and if the promise of marriage is not \nperformed in consequence of fickleness on either side, a sum \nmust be paid, which is adjudged in proportion to the wealth of \nthe individual, and often all they have. \n\nThe Lichtge]u.n is the custom in the northern part of the can- \nton, with the usual penalties if the lover is seen on his way, or a \nstranger is caught paying his addresses to one out of the village \nwhere he belono\'s. \n\n\n\nTESSINO. 365 \n\nWhen rich people are sick, prayers are said three days in \nchurch, but the poor cannot afford to pay for them. In some \nvalleys a pound of salt is divided among all the neighbouring \nhouses, that they may pray for the sick. At funerals there is \ngreat weeping and wailing, and many prayers for the soul of the \ndeparted. But a priest asks more for repeating the Litany \naloud, less if he says it in a half tone, and a certain price if he \nsings it. It often requires all a poor family is worth to buy one. \n\nThere is a chapel or a cross at every corner, and daily proces- \nsions to visit them and receive a blessing. If these are not \nattended, the peasants think " the thunder, hghtning, and the \nrain " will destroy their crops, because the words of the prayer \nare, " Protect us, Lord, from tempest," etc. If it thunders, \nthe bells are rung for protection, or they gather under the eaves \nof the church, believing there no evil will come near them, and \nare often seen collecting as soon as it begins to be cloudy. \n\nThe carnival is held only where Bacchus can preside ; and \nthen in the usual way, as in Italy, maskers going from house to \nhouse in the evening, with lighted torches, begging, and among \nhigh and low dances and feasts. Since the facilities of commu- \nnication made it possible, very many go to Milan to the theatre, \ninstead of indulging in sports at home. \n\nBesides these, and an indescribable number in addition, are the \npilgrimages to Einsiedeln, and to the Madonna, in the Vigezzo- \nThal, in Sardinia, and many a consecrated spot in their own \ncanton. \n\nGhosts, witches, visions, and apparitions, are the events of \nevery day ; and if an old miser dies, they believe the earth \nshakes and the mountains tremble. But they say here, as in \nLuzerne, that spirit-rappers have not found so many supporters \nas in Protestant Zurich 1 \n\n\n\n366 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nAs we have before mentioned, they are engaged in constant \nlitigations, though not exactly \'\' for amusement," as they do in \nAargau ; and one could not expect, with their indolent habits, \nthey would take the trouble for any reason. For this, and be- \ncause of their many festivals, and also that in countries where \nthe articles of greatest luxury are produced the people are \nuniversally the poorest, the people of Tessino are far from rich, \nand many of them far from comfortable. In the course of fifty \nyears, however, they have progressed very much, and begin to \nfeel some ambition to overtake their sister cantons in the north. \n\nYet their fruitful land has not been entirely barren of genius. \nWho has not heard of Cetti, who knew all the languages of \nEurope, besides Hebrew and Arabic? and bj was born in \nLugano. From the same city Napoleon invited Soam to be \none of the thirty members of the National Institute . A Tessino \nsurgeon was also placed by him in care of the military hospitals \nin Italy. Many of his profession have been distinguished in \nItalian cities. \n\nStill more numerous have been her artists. Frazzini, who \nwas then in Denmark, was invited by Peter the Great to make \nthe designs for building St. Petersburg ; and to Rusca, in the \ntune of Catherina, both St. Petersburg and Moscow were in- \ndebted for some of the most beautiful of their structures. \nFietri acquired great distinction in the Academy of Cadiz, and \nwas sent to Chili to found an academy. Two beautiful edifices \nwere designed by him in Lima, It was by the light of the \ngenius of a Tessino artist that Moscow arose from her ashes \naf*er the great conflagration more beautiful than before. Native \nartists built the St. Gothard, the Bernardin, and also Mount \nCenis, for the Italians ; and within a few years Fossa ti has \nrestored the mosque of St Sophia, in Constantmople. \n\n\n\nTESSINO. 367 \n\nColdrario, who died in 1666, was director of the Academy \nof St, Lucas, at Rome ; and Pozzi received the prize for paint- \ning at Parma at the age of twenty-one. The palace of Schon- \nbrunn, near Vienna, was planned by a Tessino architect for \nMaria Theresa ; and two others constructed the dome of Milan. \n\nWe have been accustomed to hear these works ascribed to \nItalian artists, because they have Italian names, and we heard \nan Englishman assert one day that St. Petersburg was designed \nby a Frenchman. We do not understand why so many who \ntravel in Switzerland are ready to do justice to her mouu tains \nwhile doing so great injustice to her men. \n\n\n\n\nCHAPTER XXIII. \n\nBERNE. \n\nINTERLAKEN \xe2\x80\x94 EMPRESS-MOTHER OP RUSSIA \xe2\x80\x94 SUNRISE FROM THE GRIMSEL \n\xe2\x80\x94 STORY OF PETER ZEIBACH \xe2\x80\x94 OLD CUSTOMS\xe2\x80\x94 BERNESE BOYS \xe2\x80\x94 FELLEN- \nBERG COUNTRY LIFE. \n\nThe second time we entered Berne, it was from the south, \nhaving gone completely round the little republic, and many \ntimes across. \n\nInterlaken is the watering-place of Switzerland. It is the \nconcentrating and diverging point for all who ascend the moun- \ntains, cross the lakes, and thread the valleys : and for many who \nonly wish to say they have, and to be for a httle while in the \nmidst of whirl and fashion. \n\nWe followed the example of all the world, and came to \nInterlaken, which, as the name indicates, lies between the lakes, \nand in the centre of that mountainous region known as Berner \nOlerland. From one window we look out upon a lovely valley \nin the midst of bloom and beauty ; and from the other upon \nthe eternal snows, which are within less than an hour\'s ride or \nwalk. \n\nIt is a whirl, sure enough, a continuous throng coming and \n\n368 \n\n\n\nBERNE. \xe2\x80\xa2 369 \n\ngoing, with all manner of caravans and cavalcades, equipages \nand costumes, from those of the prince to the peasant. The \nEmpress-Mother of Russia is this year the centre of attraction, \nthough she herself is as\' insignificant a looking little "/?\xe2\x80\xa2\xc2\xab,%" as \none often sees. We are sitting one morning on the green, with \na handkerchief tied over our head, when a lady in a light blue \nsilk tunic over a white under-dress crosses the lawn. She is \nfollowed by a troop of fair maidens, who attend her to a seat, \nand kiss her hand. So much for ceremony. When it is finished, \nthey kneel at her feet, or sit on a bench ; and by-and-by comes \none who has also a handkerchief tied over her head, and places \nherself at her side. We ask who they all are ; and first learn, \nthat it is a train of Russian nobles, and that the house opposite \nis the residence of the Empress, for which she pays one hundred \nand fifty dollars a day. \n\nHer daughter, the Crown-Princess of Wurtemberg, is a much \ngrander-looking person, and affects no less state than the Queen \nof England or the Empress of France. When she takes a \nwalk, a liveried servant goes before, and another behind, and \nher train drags nearly a yard in length on the ground, while a \ngapmg crowd stand witness, which is evidently what she desires. \n\nIn another town we said to a Russian countess, from Mos- \ncow, something of the Empress-Mother ; and she answered : \n" Oh, yes, she likes to hold herself up !" and a German ex- \nclaimed, in allusion to the Crown Princess, " Every subject in \nWurtemberg must live on bread and water to support this \nridiculous pomp 1" \n\nBut this is not our sphere ; we will change the scene. \n\nIt is the most glorious of summer mornmgs, and we find our- \nselves upon one of the distant mountain-tops ; for we rose long \nbefore the sun could find his way to such a height, in order to \n\n\n\n370 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\noee him lift his head above the horizon. To what insignificance \nfade the crowns of princes and the pomp of courts before such a \nscene ! What would become of all the grandeur and glory of \nthe world if the king of light should be dethroned \xe2\x80\x94 if he should \ndetermine to rest for a single day, or some morning oversleep \nhimself ; or the hght of his countenance be dimmed for a mo- \nment w^hilst we are watching his awaking ? We have never \nbefore been so impressed with b\'s majesty and that of all the \nstarry hosts. \n\nBut again we must bring ourselves back to earth and ordinary \nmortals ; and, alas I in the fulfilment of our mission, expose the \nchambers of a human mind and heart from w^hich the hght of \nthe Sun of Righteousness has been shut out, and the darkness \nbecome hke that which would fill the world if the Author of \nlight should veil his face. \n\nThree centuries ago, a hut was built upon the Grimsel to \naccommodate those who wished to pass from Canton TJri to \nYalais, and a man called then, as now, a sjpitle?\', was placed \nthere to attend to weary travellers. Those who could afford it \npaid for the attention they received ; and those who could not, \nwere not less hospitably cared for. Contributions in all Switzer- \nland, which were collected in winter, supported the humble \nestablishment, which was very little enlarged or improved during \na hundred years. Often in the spring it was found covered \nwith snow and mud, and had to be dug out and made habitable, \nas then no one thought of remaining all the winter, the travel- \nlers being few or none who passed that way after the snows \ncovered the hills. \n\nWhen traveUing became the fashion, and the glaciers greater \nobjects of attraction than galleries of art, the Grimsel presented \nalmost every day a scene like an assembly, so great was the \n\n\n\nBERNE. 371 \n\nthrong upon its heights, nearly seven thousand feet above the \nsea. Thence paths led in many directions to the glaciers and \nvalleys of the four cantons. \n\nIn the early part of this century the house was fitted up by \nthe inhabitants of Hash Yalley, and rented to a man who took \nall the risk and trouble, and paid a stipulated sum to the \nowners. In 1836, being obliged to give it up, it was rented to \nhis son-in-law, Peter Zeibach, who had shown himself a worthy, \nenergetic man during all his life, and whose wife and daughters \nwere well fitted for the responsible household duties of such an \nestablishment. \n\nIt was soon proved that the choice was not ill made. Peter \nenlarged and improved the premises, till the " Hosjnz" was one \nof the best in Switzerland ; and by his attentions and just deal- \nings he made himself renowned in many lands. The travellers\'- \nbook was filled with his praises in every language. A German \nartist had covered it with designs ; a professor had written \nwhole stanzas in Greek ; students had scribbled much good and \nbad wit ; and English, American, and French verses showed \nthe appreciation the authors had of good fare, if they could not \nsing like Homer and Byron. \n\nIt was to study the neighbouring glaciers that Agassiz and \nhis companions built their tents upon the ice, where their ruins \nstill stand, and they numbered Peter as not among the least of \nthe natm-al curiosities with which they became acquainted, and \nthe name of the philosopher and host were linked in many a \ncomplimentary verse. \n\nThe peasant never put off his costume or assumed the preten- \nsions of a gentleman. Unless sought for counsel or to interpret, \nor settle disputes with guides, he was seldom seen, the higher \nofficial duties beuag left to his son, and the daughters in the \n\n\n\n372 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\npretty Bernese costume superintended the household. They \nspoke German, French, and English, were always in the dining- \nroom to be sure that every want was attended to, settled the \nbills, attended to the sick, and made each one feel that he was \nin a pleasant family instead of a mercenary inn. \n\nThere were in summer fifty servants ; dining, reading, and \nsitting-rooms ; and good lodgings for more than a hundred peo- \nple. Thirty or forty cows supplied milk, butter, and cheese of \nthe best quality, many horses were kept for guides, pigs for \nfresh meat, and more than a hundred goats. \n\nJustice and integrity were the special characteristics of Peter. \nIn all troubles which arose he was arbiter, and no one found \nfault with his decisions; he prospered as the wicked rather than \nthe righteous are usually seen to do, and became rich, though \nhe entertained gratis at least six thousand poor who every year \ncame to his door. \'No one who ever heard it will forget his \n\'\' God protect thee I" which was so seriously and heartDy \nuttered to all who left him to tempt the dangers of the snowy \ndepths below. Would that he had always uttered it as earnestly \nfor himself ; then surely God would not have forsaken him in \nthe hour of temptation and darkness. \n\nIt was on a cold November night that the flames were seen \nenveloping the snowy peaks of the Grimsel, and the next day \nthe Government and Council of Ober-Hasli were informed of \nthe calamity by Peter, who said that a stranger had lodged \nthere that night, and probably through his carelessness the fire \nhad originated. The house was insured in Berne for five thou- \nsand dollars, and the furniture for four thousand. It was the duty \ntherefore of the Government to inquire into all the particulars \nof the catastrophe, and they immediately sent a committee to \nexamine the premises and ascertain the extent of tlie loss. \n\n\n\nBERNE. 373 \n\nNo evidences that any one had perished in the flames appeared, \nand various things led to suspicion that accident had not been \nthe cause of the fire. Further examination revealed that many \nthings had been hidden in the hay and buried in the ground ; \nwine, beer, vegetables, and cheese were found where only care \ncould have placed them. \n\nAs soon as suspicion was awakened, the servant who had been \nleft there for the winter had fled ; and when a second deputa- \ntion went to search the ruins, they met Peter and his son just \nreturning from Canton Yalais with wood to rebuild the house. \nWhen asked about the articles which were buried, he said it was \nhis custom, in order to keep them from freezing ; but he had \nforgotten to mention them in makuig his statement. But in a \nday or two were found many more ; doors and windows con- \ncealed behind rocks, boxes of glass, furniture, kitchen utensils \nand stores. The judge, pointing to them, said in a friendly tone, \n" Peter Ziebach, you are an unfortunate man." \n\nHe saw that he was ruined, and stood for a moment sunk in \ndeep thought ; then rushed wildly down the steep, and plunged \ninto the sea. They dragged him from the water and restored \nhim to life ; alas, for what ? That he might spend twenty years \nin a solitary cell I \n\nHe was placed on a horse, and by a strong guard brought to \nMeyringen. How often our thoughts turned as we traced the \nsame wild solitary way to the grey-haired man of sixty-two, who \nhad lived a long life of honour and probity, and now in age had \ncovered himself with infamy, and plunged his innocent wife and \nchildren into irretrievable misfortune. Strange mystery is the \nhuman heart. \n\nISio suspicion rested upon his family, and he had in no way \ninvolved them by communicating to them any of his plans. \n\n\n\n374 \n\n\n\nTHE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\n\n\nWe will go back and trace the power of temptation in an \nhonest mind. Peter had five brothers and sisters, and lived in a \nsecluded valley of Ober-Hazli, where his father had a patch of \nland which he had helped to cultivate in summer, and in winter \nlearned the beautiful art peculiar to this valley, of carving arti- \ncles in wood, w^hich he and his brothers sold in the hotels of \nInterlaken, the Rhigi, and Lucerne to visitors, and returned \nwith the money to their parents. \n\nReading and writing were the extent of his education, and in \n1826 he married the daughter of Leuthold, who spent his sum- \nmers upon the Grimsel, and in the winter manufactured perfumes \nand carved wood. Peter was received as a son, and made \npartner in each department of business, all of which prospered \ntill the family were no longer poor, but among the affluent of \nthe land. \n\nIn 1821, there were only ten beds in the Hospiz, and at the \ntime it was burnt, in 1852, there were a hundred ; three com- \nmunes had been added to the property, and the interest had \nincreased threefold. Peter often took three thousand dollars in \na season, and spared not his own means, and shrank from no care \nor labour that could add to the pleasure and comfort of his guests. \n\nBut in 1853, his lease would end. In October he had tried \nto renew it for twenty years upon conditions more favourable to \nhimself, but had not succeeded. He had reigned as king on the \nmountain for sixteen years, and acquired a reputation w^hich \nplaced him among the first and most honourable of Swiss inn- \nkeepers. In the hotels of every canton his name was heard, and \nin his native valley he was considered a benefactor, and looked \nup to with respect. He could not endure the thought of resign- \ning it. The mountain air was his element, and the bustle and \nbusiness of the hotel his life. \n\n\n\nBEENE. 375 \n\nThen came speculations concerning means of retaining it, or \nbecoming the owner. The house belonged to the company, but \nif it were destroyed, with a little aid he could rebuild it, and it \nwould be his for ever. The train of thought can be easily \nimagined now that we know the end. Two months before the \nfire he came to the bed of his wife in great agony, crying for \nhelp, but soon became quiet, and could not explain what was the \ntrouble. It was the struggle between the good and the evil \nprinciple within him, and the evil at length prevailed. He \nflattered himself with the thought that the wrong would not be \nso very great where no lives would be endangered, and resolved \nalso to do great good if he should be owner of real estate, a man \nof property and influence. The new house should correspond \nwith the times, and the Grunsel should fill the land with renown. \n\nThe two servants were induced to accede to his plans by the \npromise of three hundred dollars. Six pounds of sulphur and \nfive bottles of gas were purchased and placed in different parts \nof the building, besides wood covered with fat. Peter attended \nto the packing himself, and when all was ready on the 5 th of \nIs\'ovember, went home. The men drank, to give them courage, \nand one took a light and kindled each place through a hole \nwhich had been made for the purpose. In three hours the house \nwas burnt to the ground. \n\nOn the 13th of May, 1853, the old man, now bent and sor- \nrow-stricken, stood with his accomplices before the Assizes of \nBerner Oberland, in Thun. The accusation was read, and he \nwas then entreated to give a detail of the events. This he \nrefused to do ; but said, as far as he was concerned, it was just, \nonly harshly expressed, and in some things exaggerated. \n\nPausing with a deep shudder he said, \xe2\x80\x94 " I know I have \nbrought upon myself and family the deepest misfortune. There \n\n\n\n376 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nis for me no justification. I have sinned, and pray all men to \nsee in me henceforth a warning. After having devoted my life \nto industry and economy, and striven to promote the honour of \nmy children and the good of my country, through one sin I have \nbrought disgrace and misery to them, and must myself sit down \nfor ever in darkness and the shadow of death. There are many \nhere who have known and respected me, and the judge will \ncommit and punish me against his will and love for me ; but I \ndeserve the full punishment of the law \xe2\x80\x94 dungeon and death. \nFor myself I could not ask the sentence mitigated, but for the \nsake of my family I pray it may be lightened ; and to my com- \npanions I ask you to be merciful." \n\nBy the law he was adjudged to death ; but the Federal \nCouncil commuted the sentence to twenty years\' imprisonment \nand chains. The two principal accomplices were sentenced to \ntwelve, and the other to eleven years in solitary confinement. \nOnly seven of these years are passed, and still thirteen remain. \n\nWhoever studies the records a hundred years hence will no \ndoubt think this a severe punishment under the circumstances, \nas we do many that were inflicted a hundred years ago. It was \na crime, but it was the only one of a life, and was deeply re- \npented. The judgment of God will be more merciful. \n\nBerne has been always a ruling power, disposed to conquest \nand to tyranny, until the last revision of her constitution and \nthe formation of the present Federal Government. The oli- \ngarchists are for the present in the minority, but the gall and \nw^ormwood are in their hearts, and having lost their power, they \nmake it up in exclusiveness, in boasting of superiority which is \nno longer otherwise visible. One hears continually of the \n"seven patrician families" who have kept themselves entirely \npure from all plebeian connections and relationships ; and it is \n\n\n\nEERNE. 377 \n\ntrue they have isolated themselves so entirely from the world for \nfear of contamination that they have adopted about as little of \nthe world\'s progress as the inhabitants of Spitzbergen. The \npatricians of Philadelphia would be amused to find ii field bed- \nstead, with all appurtenances thereunto, the principal furniture \nof a saloon among those who would not admit into their presence \na person who could not count ten generations. \n\nWhen the great Haller wished to publish his\' history in the \ncity, and walked among them prince of poets, orators, phi- \nlosophers, magistrates, and physicians, they could not tolerate \nhis having been humble born, and could not allow that Berne \nshould stand upon his title-page. This was in the eighteenth \ncentury, and if they had the power they would use it in the \ngame ridiculous manner now. They do not allow any marriages \nto take place out of this charmed circle, and have thus intensi- \nfied stupidity to the very last degree. The ridiculous pretension \nof the httle German courts is not quite so ridiculous as that of \nthese Swiss patricians, which are not confined to Berne alone, \nas we have elsewhere said. \n\nWe find very early among the statutes of Berne attempts to \nrestrain the guilds, with the avowal that it is for the pui*i3ose of \npreventing their ever acquiring the influence they did in Zurich. \nIn 1363, they were forbidden to assemble without four members \nof the Government present ; and any who should form a guild \nwithout permission should pay four hundred dollars, and be ban- \nished for ever from the city. \n\nBefore this many of the nobility had become impoverished \nand resorted to handicrafts, and when they came by their trades \nto be members of guilds, they wished also to retain their posi- \ntion and influence, but they had soiled their hands with labour, \nand couia no more sit down with princes. \n\n\n\n378 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nBut their efforts did not entirely succeed. A century later \ngreat troubles arose with the butchers, who rebelled against the \nrestrictions, and the bakers did not like that the Government \nshould fix the price of bread. But instead of heeding their \npetitions, they were restrained within narrower limits, and all old \nlaws concerning apprentices and master workmen were renewed, \nNo apprentice was allowed to have more than seven dollars and \na half in his pocket at a time. \n\nIn 146 1, a clothmaker was obtained by the Government, and \nsupplied with house, dyeing materials, kettles, shears, etc., and \nall foreign clothes forbidden to be sold. All that were made \nwere examined weekly, to be sure no fraud had been practised, \nand carried to the city sale-house. The richest people dressed \nin grey homespun till the sixteenth century. \n\nA French tailor was banished so late as 1^98 ; and not till \n1198 did they get rid of all privileges and restrictions in trade \nand mechanics. \n\n1366. \xe2\x80\x94 It was ordained that all grain must be brought to the \nmarket in Berne. This was a Government monopoly ; but \nwhen there was a scarcity, and the corn-house was empty, the \nGovernment felt obliged to fill it ; and in time of famine, in \n1411, they sent to Strasburg and procured nine hundred thou- \nsand pounds, the transportation of which cost them six thousand \nRhenish gulden (two thousand seven hundred and fifty dollars). \n\nIn 1481, an apothecary was appointed, with a salary of ten \ndollars a year and eight wagon-loads of wood. \n\nIn 1394, twenty-one hrunnen were finished, it being a very \ndry summer. Since then many others have been added. The \ndesigns of the statues and masonry are curious specimens of the \nolden time. One is an ogre eating a child, half of which hangs \nout of his mouth, and several are peeping their heads out of his \n\n\n\nBEKNE. \n\n\n\n3Y9 \n\n\n\npockets and liauging to his girdle, waiting the dictates of his \nappetite. Another is the figure of a bear standing on his hind \nlegs, dressed in a coat-of-mail, and wearing a helmet, in one \nhand a banner and in the other a sword. \n\nThe streets were paved in 1399, and fines were mostly appro- \npriated to improving and adorning the city. If a wall was to \nbe built, or tower, or public-house, all the citizens helped, and it \nwas soon finished. \n\nDuels were, in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, \nauthorized by Government ; a place appointed for the combat, \nand judges to attend to the ceremony. They fought within a \nring, and he who first ran out was considered vanquished. \nWomen who were slandered had also the privilege of proving \ntheir innocence by single combat, though the arrangements were a \nlittle different. The man was obliged to stand in a ditch to his \nwaist, and defend himself with a club, while the woman pelted \nhim with stones. A woman thus vindicated her honour in 1288, \nand came off victorious. \n\nAt all entertainments the men and women were obliged to sit \nas far apart as possible ; and in 1602, great consternation was \nproduced at a wedding by young ladies entering the room with \ngehtlemen, and sitting promiscuously at table. The Government \nimmediately set itself to correct such a scandal, and ordained \nthat in future there should be no sitting by each other among \ngentlemen and ladies, and that two ofi&cers should be present on \nall occasions to see that this order was obeyed, and cause a fine \nof fifty dollars for each offence. Exactly how far apart they \nwere obliged to -remain is not stated, nor w^hether they were \nwithin speaking distance. \n\nA wedding is mentioned of a rich heiress, at which a great \nsupper was given, and the bride and bridegroom had a roast \n\n\n\n380 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\npeacock. Henry voii Luttermann performed the office oifemme, \nde chamhre for the bride, and her morning gift was a gold chain. \n\n\'^0 citizen of Berne could marry a woman from another state \nunless she had a dowry of fifteen hundred dollars. \n\nA shoemaker was fined fifteen dollars for making shoes a \nfinger\'s length longer than the foot. Ladies were forbidden to \nhave tails to their dresses, or to wear caps more than two-thirds \nof a yard high, with fringe hanging to the bottom of the dress \nbehind. The nobility bordered their dresses with ermine, \'\' but \ncould not be consoled for the loss of their Moved tails.\'\' \n\nIn 15 tt, it is recorded that a noble lady of Berne bore her \nhusband the twenty-sixth child. In 1542, an innkeeper was \nforbidden to ask more than four sous for a good meal of fish and \nmeat. At a wedding only one kind of roast and salad was to \nbe set before the guests, and only six could be invited. Women \nand girls could have a simple soup, but boys nothing. Those who \nwished to entertain men could set before them one dish of meat \nand a pint of wine ; and the hostess must be careful to have it \nready by ten o\'clock in winter, and at eleven in summer, so that \nthey could get through at four and go home. \n\nWe find the Government issuing mandates concerning caps \nand trains till the end of the eighteenth century. Many efforts \nwere made to create a national dress. Young men who \nwent abroad and returned in the costume of another country, \nmust lay it aside within six weeks, and dress according to law. \nClergymen must wear their cloaks to conceal their gaiters, other \ngentlemen to cover their hips, and women to hide their ankles ; \nand servants must not wear velvet, or silk, or hats, or shoes \nwith heels. \n\nCoflTee-houses were introduced about the year 1100, by a \nFrenchman, but forbidden by the Government. Twenty-five \n\n\n\nBERNE. 381 \n\nyears later an attempt was made to form a society where tea and \ncoffee should be the beverage, and playing cards and conversa- \ntion the amusement, but the Government forbade it. At the \nsame time this same Government allowed the formation of a \nsociety called the Golden Lause, to which belonged more than \nfifty members of the Great and Little Council, which required \nof the members to get drunk every day of the week ! Those \nwho mourn the degeneracy of the present times, and especially \nof democratic rulers, can pause and consider. \n\nIn 1137, it is mentioned that a new and peculiar feature had \nappeared in Bernese society, not at all productive of virtue or \ngood manners,* Young girls from eight to ten years of age \nformed themselves into a society or " Sunday Union f and \nwithout any supervision from older persons, spent the evening in \n" wild sports and junketing ;" and when they arrived at the age \nof sixteen or seventeen, young gallants were added to their \nmembers, who were as destitute of good manners as themselves. \nOfficers from the garrison entertained them with stories of their \namours and revels, which were not of a nature to refine their \nmanners or purify their minds, and furnished them with books \nof doubtful character, all of which had the most deleterious \ninfluence on the whole family life and general society, which \nremains to this day. \n\nThe author does not say how long these had existed ; whether \nthey originated in Berne, or were adopted from some other \ncountry, or were introduced, as were many of their customs, by \nsome of the swarms of foreigners who were always fleeing to \nthem for refuge. But he proceeds to lament the consequences \nof these coteries, which separated the members of families, alien- \n\n* History of Berne, by Von Zillier. \n\n\n\nTHE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nated affections that should be cemented, and exposed the young \nto evil influences which parents and guardians had not the \npower to counteract because they were ignorant of them ; and \ncreated a stiffness in manners and society which prevents cor- \ndiality, and is inimical to good feeling.* \n\nIn the beginning, two hundred and forty-three families formed \nthe oligarchy, and the "Great and little Council" could be \nformed from those only. They assumed all lucrative oflQces, \nand aiTOgated to themselves all privileges. The ^^ Burgher ^^ \nand \'\' Bauer ^^ were aUke contemptible. It was this aristocracy \nand arrogance which led to the " war of the peasants" in 1513. \nThey were conquered, but not extinguished, and one after an- \nother, in each canton where ohgarchism prevailed, there was a \nsuccession of revolutions, \xe2\x80\x94 in Lucerne in 1570, in Basle in 1591. \nIn 1652, Berne changed the value of her currency, so that he \nwho had ten dollars yesterday, had only one to-day. A similar \nordinance appeared in Lucerne, and was the signal for universal \nrebellion. "Of what use was it," said the peasants, "to \nabolish the old slavery and impose a new one ? Those oppress- \nions are insupportable. Where is the beloved justice of the \nancient Confederacy ? Berne indeed makes very good laws, but \nthey are never executed." \n\nFor the tumults, wars, and massacres which followed, we \nhave not room. They continued till the nineteenth century in \nsome form, and ended only with the abolition of caste and \nprivilege. Vaud and Argovie struggled till they became free ; \nand Berne was obliged to yield all her conquered territory, ex- \ncept Bienne, and part of the ancient bishopric of Basle. \n\nIn 1830 the aristocratic government was overturned for the \n\n* We have described them more particularly in Canton Geneva. \n\n\n\nBERNE. 383 \n\nlast time, and the constitution based upon the utmost freedom. \nThe \'\' two hundred and forty- three famihes" have dwindled to a \nvery few ; but their hatred, revenge, and bitterness, are inten- \nsified in proportion ; and the manner in which they foster their \npride, and affect to despise " new people," is infinitely amusing. \nThe next generation will perhaps get a little Christianized and \nmodernized ; for, in spite of all the bars and bolts of conven- \ntionalism, new ideas do now and then creep in. The schools \nwill soon send forth one generation which must have learned a \nlittle of the trne Christian and liberal spirit, if they are taught \nthe history of their country as written by their best authors, \nand imbibe the spirit of patriotism and enthusiam as sung by \ntheir poets. \n\nWe have never anywhere seen so many fine-looking, manly, \nand well-behaved boys as in Berne. The first day we returned \nto the city, we visited the play-ground, from which we could al- \nways overlook the exercises of the gymnasium, where were held \nalso school exhibitions. We should like to know the future of \nsome fine little fellows, who show us their prizes and certificates \nwith eyes that sparkle like fire, and a manifestation of pride and \nemulation that proves their appreciation of an honourable name. \nWe made many friends among the little folks, and found it \ndreary enough in our walks when it became too cold for them \nto run, and jump, and scream on the lawn. But we remained \nlong enough to see them slide down hill ; and if American boys \nwould know how this feat is performed in Switzerland, we can \ntell them \xe2\x80\x94 exactly as it is in America ! The sleds are of all \nfashions and sizes,\'*and they begin at the top, and wheel around \na long, winding way, sometimes losing their balance, and tumb- \nhng heels over head, as we have seen them on a thousand hills \nat home. Sometimes there are girls also, whom the boys \n\n\n\n384 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\npolitely draw up the steep places, and guide the sled carefully \nagain on its way down. We are only sorry they cannot remain \nalways frank, true, open-hearted Swiss boys, instead of being \ntrained to the falsehood, narrow-mindedness, and bigotry, which \ntheir conventionalisms require. \n\nBut we did not remain always in Berne capital. It was the \nfirst canton where we saw the peasantry in their villages and \nhomes ; and in no other do they seem to be so rich and pros- \nperous ; or rather, in no other do we see those who seem so \nrich and prosperous. The distmctions are greater between the \nrich and poor. \n\nAfter their heroes, the name and life with which we were best \nacquainted in Switzerland before we came, was that of Fellen- \nberg. When we came to Berne, our first inqumes were for his \ninstitution, and some one answered, \'\' Oh, it is in ruins. Since \nhe died it has not been kept in operation.\'\' But this did not \ndeter us from wishing to see where he laboured. \n\nThe work he accomplished is known to all the world. His \nschool was patronised by every nation in Europe ; and with hmi \noriginated the noble ideas concerning agriculture as a science \nand means of elevation for the masses, which are now those of \nall men. He purchased two thousand acres of land a few miles \nfrom Berne, known as Hofwyl, and devoted it to experiments \nwhich should prove the theories he advanced. He established a \nmanufactory of instruments adapted to the different fields they \nwere to till, and showed how a knowledge of the chemical \nnature of soils, of the physiology of plants, of natural history, \nand kindred subjects, enabled^ the farmer to overcome obstacles, \nand reap a thousandfold for his labour. But he did not instruct \nby precept alone. He toiled with the peasant in a peasant\'s \nfrock, and often accompanied visitors around the establishment, \n\n\n\nBEENE. 385 \n\nwho did not suspect him of being the great man himself. His \npleasant voice and cheerful smile were everywhere, as must al- \nways be the case, with those who would make any impression \nupon the people they would elevate. \n\nHe established also a school for orphans and the poor, where \nthe teachers acted upon the same principle. They not only \ntaught books and read homilies, but laughed, and played, and \nworked with the children. \n\nWe visited the grave of the noble man, and thought "how \nstrange and how sad that there should have been none on whom \nhis mantle could fall when he ascended to heaven." The ruins \ndo not testify to the impracticability of his sj\'^stem, but those \nwho inherited the property had no taste or talent, and especially \nno heart for such a work. The schools are still in successful \noperation, but the farms are no longer an agricultural school ; \nthough the Federal Government has lately purchased a portion \nof the land to found a college and carry out the principles which \nthere originated. \n\nIn Thurgovie, at Kreuzlingen, at Hauterive in Friburg, and \nat Glarus, are institutions which are the offspring of Hofwyl; \nand agricultural societies were formed throughout Europe which \nare also the fruits of his labours. What a waste it would have \nbeen," indeed, of such a mind and soul to spend them in the idle \nand ridiculous ceremonies of European diplomacy ! \n\nThe peasantry in the villages around Hofwyl are also proofs \nof the refining influence of a cultivated Christian man in their \nmidst. The country is beautiful as fairyland. The fields with \ntheir rich harvests stretch away m broad prairies, dotted here \nand there with a smiling village, an ample farmhouse, or a \nhumble cot, with orchards and gardens that speak of profusion, \n\n17 \n\n\n\nTHE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nand the perfection of rural happiness. We entered a village \nstore, a village schoolhouse, and the village church. \n\nThe preacher was an old man, and like the Lutherans in Ger- \nmany, he wore a gown and little black velvet cap. The church, \nlike most of the Protestant churches in Switzerland, was plain to \nseverity. The services began at eight o\'clock, in order to finish \nwhile it was cool, and before we should get sleepy ; they were \nnearly the same as in America, except the baptism of four little \nbabies, with their godfathers and godmothers dressed in black \nsatin, with the white chemisette and silver chains which char- \nacterise the Bernese costume, and the little ones rolled up like \nmummies in white, handed on cushions. There was evidently \nquite an attempt at display on the part of the mammas, and \nthey were not so entirely absorbed with the solemnity of the \nrite that they could not glance around to see if they were suffi- \nciently admired. \n\nThe schoolhouse was a two-story, square building, painted \nwhite, as we have since seen so many. Their school system is \nnot old enough to admit of decayed buildings ; but it is now \nold enough to be well established and good. A century ago a \nteacher in the city received four dollars a year ! IN^ow there \nare schools in every commune, four high schools in the city, and \none or two in every prefecture of the canton. \n\nIn the Emmenthal, in the northeastern part, the villages are \nlarge and handsome, and those who are still called peasants are \nbankers and merchants, and extensive landowners. We do not \nknow what position or dignity one must acquire in order to \nrelinquish the title of peasant. We asked a young lady, who \nconsidered herself a patrician, if she knew any of the people in \nthese fine houses, and she said, " Oh, no, we have nothing to do \nwith peasants." \n\n\n\nBEKNE. 387 \n\nWe should have stopped at Brienz on our way from the \nGrimsel to Interlaken to describe the beautiful carvings in wood \nwhich are now so celebrated. An old man first cut little articles \nfor his amusement, without any idea of selHng them, and had no \nidea of design. Others soon imitated him, and made little \nthmgs for ornament. Now it is a great industry, which sup- \nplies all the world, and the artists must have the genius of the \nsculptor. In a year, they delivered at a single market between \nthirty and thirty-five thousand dollars^ worth. The articles are \neverything that can be imagined for use or ornament, in carved \nwork, and mosaics of different coloured woo&s. Tables are bor- \ndered with the national colours and costumes of the twenty-two \ncantons. We asked how much such a one would cost. The \nman answered without hesitation, *\' We will dehver it in New \nYork for twenty dollars." We had that moment arrived, and \nhad not mentioned New York or America. So skilful they be- \ncome in detecting the representatives of every nation. \n\nWe were rowed over the lake by some pretty maidens, and \nsaluted at the foot of the foaming Giesbach by a troop with \ncheerful song. Thirty years ago, a traveller mentions the same \nsalutation, and we learn that a family on the opposite shore \nhave been trained from generation to generation for this pur- \npose. Before the steamer arrives, one collects the centimes, \nwhich reward them for their pains. Whilst this is being done, \ntwo travellers are chanting their prayers so loud that it causes a \nlittle disturbance. They evidently consider themselves bound to \nrecite so many every morning, and not having risen early enough \nto accomphsh this task in private, they seize these few moments \nof waiting, and thus inform a large company of their devotion, \nas we do not understand what other purpose is answered by \nreading the Prayer-book aloud in public, instead of softly ; and \n\n\n\n388 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nthink, also, that what had been put off till the eleventh hour \nmight have been deferred a little longer, or that the lips might \nhave breathed a few words which would have been as acceptable \nto Him "Who knoweth the heart from the beginning, who \nheareth in secret, and rewardeth openly." \n\nWe cross the Lake of Thun, where we are again encircled by \na snowy wreath, and though only an hour\'s ride from Brienz, \npresenting a combination of mountain, glacier, and gorge, as \ndifferent as if they were in two hemispheres ; but from no point \nis the great chain of Alps so imposing, so grand, so beautiful, as \nfrom Berne. We return to them as to familiar friends, and say \na long and last farewell, with a pang scarcely less poignant than \nthat which the snapping of some human tie will cause. We \nrecall a thousand scenes with pleasure \xe2\x80\x94 the lovely gardens on \nZurich\'s banks, the villas reflected in Leman\'s blue waters, the \nrude features of Lucerne, the panorama from the Rhigi, hke a \nliving picture, which needs no art to keep it for ever present to our \nvision. We still tremble as we think of the Via Mala, and the \nproud pinnacles of the Galknstock ; but Berne, had she only a \nmirror to reflect her beauties, would combine them all in one; so \ngracious and enchanting are her sunny summer landscapes smiling \nat the feet of those eternal snows. \n\n\n\nCHAPTER XXIY. \n\nCONCLUSION. \n\nATTACHMENT OF THE PEOPLE TO THEIR GOTERNMENT FEDERAL ASSEMBLY \n\nCOUNCIL OF STATE \xe2\x80\x94 FEDERAL COUNCIL TRIBUNAL CONSTITUTION OFFI- \nCIALS \xe2\x80\x94 POSTAGE \xe2\x80\x94 NATIONALITY. \n\nWe have traced the history of Switzerland from the beginning \neven to the end. We have seen the Httle band of brave moun- \ntaineers, a httle handful, expand into a great and prosperous na- \ntion ; and the union which was at first that of only three men, and \nthen of three states, became a confederacy of twenty-two sover- \neign cantons. The homes they swore to defend were, at first, \nonly a few rude huts of the wilderness, and their country bounded \nby the visible horizon. He who would know into what this \nwilderness has blossomed, and these homes expanded and beau- \ntified, must ascend the Khigi, and looked abroad upon a picture \nmore lovely than anything pencil has painted, or dream of poet \nconceived. He who thinks Switzerland is less dear to her peo- \nple as it is than as it was, can have very little idea of the ten- \nacity with which they clmg to a birthright which not all the \ngolo of princely coffers could buy when it seemed scarcely more \nthan a mess of pottage, and which they would not now barter \n\n\n\n390 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nas long as there was left a living soul to shed the last drop of \nblood in her defence.* \n\nWe have sufficiently shown that the incessant revolutions and \nconvulsions to which Switzerland was for centuries subject, were \nin no measure owing to the liberty she enjoyed ; but, on the \ncontrary, to some defect in the Charter of Freedom, which kept \nthem in constant clamour for more. They could not be content \nwhilst fettered by a single bond. There was in their union some \nstrong cementing prmciple, else it could not for ages have resist- \ned the assaults from without and the oppressions from within \nwhich caused the fabric so often to totter, and by which it was \nso often shattered, but never destroyed. \n\nFor a long time the cantons presented scarcely more than a \nseries of broken links, without the genuine family tie, the true \nspirit of brotherhood, which could make them one, not only in \nname but in reality. The federal league was indissoluble, but it \nwas weak. It did not secure to them nationality, neither the \ncharacter abroad nor the strength at home which alone could \nenable them to take their place among the nations. This was \ntheir condition till 1802,f when Napoleon interfered, and per- \n\n\xe2\x99\xa6 Our sheets go to press during the discussions concerning the annexation of Savoy \nand the neutral provinces on the Lake of Geneva. Some journals think it is very amus- \ning and ridiculous that Switzerland should think of asserting and defending her rights, \nwith her limited territory and limited means, but we do not understand why, when she \nhas never yet failed to do so, never when lacking union and strength. We have had \nmany a long conversation with the most mercenary and time-serving of her people, and \nverily believe there is not one who would not sacrifice the last centime for her glory, \nand whichever of the \xe2\x80\xa2\' great powers " begins a contest with her will find it interminable, \nfor though many times conquered, they never have been, and never will be, subdued. \n\nt The following table contains a list of the cantons, with the number of square miles \nin each, the population, and the date when each canton joined the Confederacy. It \nwill be noticed that the first league was composed of three cantons in 1808, and that the \nConfederacy was not united or powerful until 1803, under the mediation of Napoleon, and \nwas not joined by all the cantons until 1815. The country was finally organized under \n\n\n\nCONCLUSIOK. \n\n\n\n391 \n\n\n\nformed for them the master-work of his life, grand because it \nwas also good, the most glorious because it was the best. In \nFrance he insisted upon maintaining the unitary system, because \nhe believed no other adapted to his people ; but in Switzerland \nhe respected the federal principle, and made it the basis of the \nAd of Mediation, which took place February 19th, 1803. The \n\na constitution binding upon the whole republic, in 1848. The struggle for independence, \nfreedom, and union has lasted through a period of five hundred and forty-five years : \n\n\n\nAargau, or Argovie \n\nAppenzell , \n\nBasle , \n\nBerne \n\nFriburg \n\nSt. GaU \n\nGeneva \n\nGlarus \n\nGraubiinden, or Griaona. \n\nLuzerne \n\nNeuchatel \n\nSchaff hausen \n\nSchwytz \n\nSoleure \n\nTessino \n\nThurgan, or Thurgovie. . \n\nUnterwalden \n\nUri \n\nValais \n\nVaud \n\nZug \n\nZurich \n\n\n\nTotal. \n\n\n\nSquare Miles. \n\n\nPopulation. \n\n\nDate. \n\n\n511 \n\n\n190,000 \n\n\n1803 \n\n\n149 \n\n\n54,000 \n\n\n1513 \n\n\n192 \n\n\n66,000 \n\n\n1491 \n\n\n2,576 \n\n\n440,000 \n\n\n1352 \n\n\n564 \n\n\n95,000 \n\n\n1481 \n\n\n744 \n\n\n172,000 \n\n\n1798 \n\n\n93 \n\n\n65,000 \n\n\n1815 \n\n\n276 \n\n\n32,0110 \n\n\n1352 \n\n\n2,981 \n\n\n92,000 \n\n\n1798 \n\n\n595 \n\n\n128,000 \n\n\n133 iJ \n\n\n297 \n\n\n66,000 \n\n\n1815 \n\n\n117 \n\n\n35,000 \n\n\n1501 \n\n\n340 \n\n\n43,000 \n\n\n1308 \n\n\n255 \n\n\n65,000 \n\n\n1481 \n\n\n1,044 \n\n\n114,000 \n\n\n1803 \n\n\n266 \n\n\n92,000 \n\n\n1803 \n\n\n266 \n\n\n25,000 \n\n\n1308 \n\n\n426 \n\n\n14,500 \n\n\n1308 \n\n\n1,667 \n\n\n80,0\' \n\n\n1475 \n\n\n1,186 \n\n\n203,000 \n\n\n1798 \n\n\n8") \n\n\n16,500 \n\n\n1352 \n\n\n683 \n\n\n280,000 \n\n\n1351 \n\n\n\n15,315 \n\n\n\n2,400,000 \n\n\n\nThe comparative size of Switzerland may be better known by reflecting that the area \nof the State of New York is three times greater \xe2\x80\x94 the former having 15,315 square miles, \nand the latter 45,658. Switzerland is not quite equal in surface to that part of New \nYork lying west of the Hudson River and north of the Mohawk, including Oneida and \nOswego counties, the difference being only about one hundred and ninety square miles. \nBut while this part of New York supports only about 600,000 people, Switzerland supports \nfour times as many. Switzerland is also more mountainous, and more northerly, lying \nbetween 45 deg. 60 min. and 47 deg. 49 min. north latitude, while all this part of New \nYork lies between 43 and 45 deg. Hundreds of square miles of Switzerland are covered \nwith perpetual snow and ice, while northern New York is every year relieved of its \nwinter burden. If northern New York were crossed by good highways and railroads, it \nmight become the Switzerland of America. \n\n\n\n392 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nten years which followed were the most prosperous Switzerland \nhad ever enjoyed. They then first learned to govern themselves. \nTithes, restrictions, and prohibitions were abolished, and industry, \ncommerce, and agriculture awoke from their long slumber, to \nopen a horn of plenty, and pour broadcast its treasures. For \nthe benefits which he conferred, the great conqueror required \nmuch treasure and much blood, yet they pardoned this and the \nruthless devastation of his armies, in consideration of the good \nhe did. Everywhere the " period of mediation " is spoken of as \nthe golden era of their modern existence. When Napoleon fell, \nand the " great powers " again became arbiters, they destroyed \nthe beautiful structure merely because it was the work of Napo- \nleon. Again the common good was sacrificed to cantonal and \nindividual interest ; again they were tossed by convulsions \nand torn by dissensions. For fifteen years jealousies and rival- \nries between the different states put an end to progress, and \nthreatened the existence of the confederation. But now they \nlearned thoroughly the evils of dissension, and the year 1830 saw \nthe formation of the new constitution* for the good of the whole, \nand the revision of nearly every cantonal constitution better to \npromote their individual interests. \n\nThey are now united in the Swiss Confederacy, and we must \nconsider a little more minutely the different parts of the edifice \nwhich has proved so far to be exactly adapted to the wants of \nthe republic, and promises for the future a glorious prosperity, \nwhich may well make the despots around them tremble, for it \nwill demonstrate incontestably that freedom is the only state in \nwhich a people can become truly great or remain truly satisfied. \n\nThe Federal Assembly is composed of two houses, " The \n\n* This was drawn up chiefly by M. Rossi, the distinguished jurisconsult of Geneva* \n\n\n\nCONCLUSION. 393 \n\nNatianal Coundl,^^ and the " Council of StateP The former is \ncomposed of deputies chosen from among the people, one to \nevery twenty thousand inhabitants. For there every man who \nhas reached the age of twenty years is entitled to vote, provided \nhe is not mcapacitated by crime or otherwise from exercising the \nrights of citizenship in his own canton. \n\nThe Council of State is composed of forty-four deputies, two \nbeing elected from each canton, without reference to the number \nof inhabitants. The consent of both houses is necessary in \norder that any measure become a law, and the members vote \nwithout instructions. \n\nThe Directorial Authority and Superior Executive is vested in \na Federal Council, composed of seven members, each from a \ndifferent canton, and retaining his office for three years. A \npresident j^ro tern, is chosen from these seven counsellors, \nwho enjoys a salary of about two thousand two hundred and \nfifty dollars,* and each of the ^other six members receiving \nduring his term of office something under two thousand dollars \nper annum. Their duties are to watch over the good of the \nnation collectively, with reference to its external and internal \naffairs ; and when the assembly is not in session they can raise \ntroops, if necessary, but with the reserve of convoking imme- \ndiately the councils, if the number of troops raised exceeds two \nthousand, or if they remain in service more than two weeks. \nThey render an account of their proceedings at each meeting of \nthe assembly. \n\nThere is also a Federal Tribunal for the administration of \nfederal justice, and a court for the trial of penal offences. \n\nThe two chambers in session elect the Federal Council, the \n\n\xe2\x99\xa6 Half as much as a county oflQcial in Bavaria. \n\n17* \n\n\n\n394 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ncommander-in-cliief of the federal army,* and the major-general. \nThey contract foreign alliances, declare war, and conclude trea- \nties of peace and commerce, take measures for external safety, \nthe maintenance of independence and neutrality, and guarantee \ntheir territory and constitutions to the cantons. \n\nThere are one hundred and fourteen articles in the federal \nconstitution ; but we have sufficiently illustrated their pro- \nvision and spirit in the course of the work to make repetition \nunnecessary. Each canton retains its own legislation, its civil \nand penal justice, its system of taxation, and pubhc instruction, \ndecides its relation between Church and State, and the disposi- \ntion of its military. \n\nThe systeLn of rotation in office is the same in Switzerland as \nin America. There is not one office which is for life, if the peo- \nple choose to change it. The judges are not only elective, but \nalso very far from being chosen among the law-learned. They \nsay the fitness of judge an(J jury depend on quahties of the \nheart rather than the mind ; and though monarchists, judging \nfrom theory, without any real knowledge of the facts, contend \nthat it is impossible the duties of any office can be well per- \nformed without experience and knowledge, it does not appear that \nall pubhc duties are not as well executed in Switzerland as in \nany neighbouring land. No man thinks of an office of any kind \nas a means of livehhood. It is merely an honour which he \nenjoys for a little time, and he then quietly lays down his staff \nto take up his trade again.\' When parties change, the principal \nincumbents are removed, as in America, which is in some re- \nspects an evil, but no greater, one would think, than a system \nwhich compels a whole phalanx of officials to swear truth and \n\n* At present General Dufour, who served under Napoleon, and is considered one of \nthe ablest officers in Europe. \n\n\n\nCONCLUSION. 395 \n\nfealty to whomsoever may be in power, whatever their name or \nprinciples. Those who had taken the oath of fidelity to king \nand emperor in Russia and Austria, hesitated not to take the \nsame to Napoleon when the fortunes of war gave him the right \nto rule over them. In France we see a similar body promising \nto be true to the king in 1190, and a few years later crying, \n\'\' Down with the king, and long live the republic." On their \noffices depended their daily bread ; and when Napoleon seized \nthe sceptre, they were as ready to crown the emperor as to \ndethrone a king, and when his fortunes waned, to support the \nrestoration.* Those who received a staff from Charles X. or \nLouis Phihppe were just as ready in 1841 to wield it for the \nrepubhc, and now are not the less loyal to the Third Napoleon. \nThey are only true to him who will secure to them the means of \nlife, by whatever name he may be called. They do not profess \nto have either principles or opinions. They are merely part of \na vast machinery, turned by something more fickle than the \nwind, and ruled by something stronger than iron. This is an \nevil which those of a republic have not to fear. If they suffer \nfrom the instability of their official corps, they have not to dread \nthe more fearful stability of a large and well-organized class of \nmen embodying a power secured only to that of the army, ready \nat any time to perjure themselves and sell their country to any \nusurper who will promise them in return the pittance which is \nto keep them from penury and starvation. Any one who has \nexperienced their immobility and indifference to everything ex- \ncept government interest, might be ready to pray for almost any \nrevolution that should give them a httle more sympathy with \nhumanity. \n\n\xe2\x99\xa6 " The king is dead, long live the king," is the expression the moment one is dead \nand another is proclaimed. \n\n\n\n396 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nThe military system * was illustrated in the history of Neu- \nchatel, and the school system of each canton in connexion with \nthe development of its resources. \n\nThe prosperity of the little republic in commerce, manufactures, \nand agriculture, is known to all the world ; and a very common \nsubject of reproach is their mercenary spirit, their materialism, \nand the absence of all that is poetic and artistic. One author, \nwho likes them on the whole, says, \'\'There is a little too much \nof the money-making spirit of North America." Exactly what \nthis means we have never been able to learn, as we have never \nyet found people of any nation to differ very much in this respect. \nThe difference consists in the means to which they apply them- \nselves to arrive at the same end, and the capacity they bring t-^ \nthe accomplishment of it. The same freedom in every country \nof Europe that exists in America, England, and Switzerland, \nwould awake to the same life the stolid, stupefied, slumbering \npopulace. But there would then be lacking the resources of \nAmerica, which open a path to every human effort and concep- \ntion, and to which, quite as much as to her people, the great \nwealth and prosperity are owing. These might be multiphed \neven in Europe by removing the trammels and opening the ways \nnow made inaccessible to trade and commerce by tariffs, taxes, \nand prohibitions. Nothing annoys an American so much in the \nOld World, as the littleness in all business transactions, from the \nmanufacturer to the concierge. They know nothing about doing \nthings on a grand scale. Everything is bought and sold by the \nounce, and this is according to a settled system of things, for the \n\n* The whole expense of the millitary is at most $555,000 \n\nThe amount of salaries paid to officials 555,000 \n\nThe united revenues of the Federal Government and Cantons . . . 845,000 \nThe whole expense of the Government, including military, manufac- \nture of powder, coinage, debts, etc $8,689,850 \n\n\n\nCONCLUSION. 39T \n\npurpose of supporting several grades of intermediate personages, \nwho have no other means of livelihood than a species of menial- \nism, such as these very people would consider it the lowest \ndegradation to practise in America. It would take no more \ntime for them to learn the science of honourable commerce and \nindustry than the petty details of fraud and exaction, and it \nwould add infinitely to their nobility of character ; and if they \nspent a hundredth part of the calculation in making dollars that \nthey do in saving kreutzers, centimes, and sous, their seuls would \nexpand accordingly. "VVe have never found them otherwise dis- \nposed towards British or American gold than to get as much of \nit as possible, and however lavishly expended, it is by no means \ndespised. \n\nThis pettishness and dishonesty are no more characteristic of \nthe Swiss than any other Europeans. We are of course speak- \ning of the lower classes. They have more energy, are more \noriginal, and more inventive, because there are more incite- \nments, and a better reward for their labour. The great corps \nof officials and soldiers who are supported in other countries in \nidleness, are here engaged in remunerative employments. Their \ngovernment is not expensive, they are not restrained by prohi- \nbitions, there is no direct taxation, and no tariff * that is felt as \nthe least weight upon the people. In commerce they are next \nto England, though they have not a mile of sea-coast ; and, as \nwe have elsewhere said, there is no other country where agricul- \nture yields so great profits, though the land is divided into \nalmost infinitesimal parcels. \n\nIf there are persons still who would depreciate the Swiss in \nrespect to intelligence and sentiment as compared with those \n\n* The highest duty for luxuries ia about three dollars per quintal. \n\n\n\n398 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\naround them, the statistics coQcerning newspapers, letters, and \ntelegraphs may influence their opinions, if these may be taken \nas any criterion by which to judge. Those are likely to create \nthe greatest facilities for promoting the culture of the mind and \nheart who most highly appreciate it. \n\nThe Federal Government did not assume the direction and \nexpense of the post-ofiBce department till 1850 ; and during the \nfive years which succeeded this change, the number of letters \nand packages increased more than a million, and the number of \nnewspapers and travellers more than doubled. One sou is the \nlowest, and three sous the highest, postage for a letter from one \np\xc2\xabint to another within the limits of Switzerland, and packages \nare in proportion. We give the number of letters transported \nin five different countries during the year 1856. \n\nGreat Britain . 11S millions \xe2\x80\x94 to each person 1\'7\'25 \n\nPrance ... 252 " " 1 \n\nPrussia . . . 110^ " " 6-42 \n\nAustria ... 54 " " 1-11 \n\nSwitzerland . 23| " " 9.88 \n\nIt will be seen that Switzerland is next to England in the \nnumber of letters passing through her post offices in proportion \nto her people.* \n\nNewspapers are not subject to a stamp, and the postage is \n\n* A single telegraphic despatch to any part of Switzerland is twenty sous, and \nPrussia, with eight times as many inhabitants, sends not so many messages by several \nthousand. We append the number of stations in different countries of nearly the same \nsize: \n\nBelgium 42 Netherlands 23 Saxony 25 \n\nSardinia 59 Wurtemberg 22 Swit\xc2\xa3erland 107 \n\nBavaxia 29 \n\n\n\nCONCLUSION. 399 \n\nlower than in either of the countries mentioned, amounting in a \nyear \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nIn Switzerland for a daily sheet weighing an ounce and a half 2 75 \n\n" Germany for the same amount and distance Y Vo \n\n" France 14 60 \n\nEngland, including stamps 32 86 \n\nIt is the principle of the government to secure the welfare of \nthe whole, rather than luxuries for a few. There are at pre- \nsent no palaces and no castles except those of Nature\'s adorn- \ning, but the establishments for the poor and sick are truly \nprincely ; and no object of benevolence fails for want of interest \nor support. The Swiss are accused of being cold and heartless \n\xe2\x80\x94 and we have seen those who deserved the accusation richly \xe2\x80\x94 \nbut that the simple, unsophisticated people are less warm, cor- \ndial, and generous than those around them, we did not find. \nThey do not talk sentiment so fluently as some, but sentiment \nis very far from being heart ; and we have seen it proved \nabundantly, that an appreciation and cultivation of the fine arts \nis no proof of mind or elevation of character. Yet that there \nare no immense galleries, not so much of the artistic in archi- \ntecture, is no evidence, in Switzerland or America, that art is \nnot appreciated. The Swiss demolished the castles, not because \nthey were beautiful, but because they were to them associated \nwith tyranny, barbarity, and everything base and contemptible \nin humanity. This is the motive which has destroyed them in \nevery country. Those who built them and mhabited them were \nthe veriest boors that ever crossed a threshold. Art could not \nbe to those who knew them, and cannot be to any one who has \nstudied the history of nations, the representative of the highest \ncivilization ; but without any appreciation of it there must cer- \n\n\n\n400 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntainly be lacking one of its most important elements. The pro- \nportion of artists which Switzerland has produced is certainly \nvery great ; and the greatest number of the dreamy wanderers \namong the ruins and galleries of the Old World are English and \nAmericans. When they are so far civilized in Europe as to \ndispense with standing armies and standing officials \xe2\x80\x94 without \nwhich at present no throne could be sustained a day \xe2\x80\x94 they will \nsee their material interests advance in geometrical ratio ; but, \nas a consequence, art need not fall backward, nor the people \nunderstand or admire it less.* \n\nThose who infer from the noisy and disputatious elections in \nSwitzerland that they are a turbulent, law-defying, and dis- \ncontented people, depart as widely from the truth. They are \nvery tenacious of the privilege of " speaking their minds," and \nof exercising the \'^ right of suffrage ;" but, like Americans, \nwhen they have done this, if defeated, they submit and wait till \nthe next opportunity for victory. With their gova:nment and \ninstitutions they are perfectly content. \n\nIt is said there are many traitors in their midst, who would \nmuch prefer to become the subjects of France, or some other \nprincedom, to remaining the simple citizens of a republic ; who \nwould not hesitate to deliver their land to pillage, and see their \nbrethren torn by wolves, in order to be rewarded with the \ngilded trappings of a court, and an empty title that would desig- \nnate them as the parasites of a throne ; and there are a few of \n\n* The army of France costs exactly the same as the whole American Government ; \nwhile the sum expended for education is the same as that appropriated for the one city \nof New York \xe2\x80\x94 six millions of francs.* \n\nIn the State of Ohio the tax for education is twelve per cent., and this does not \ninclude the fund from the sale of lands devoted to this object, while in England the \ntax for educational purposes is only two per cent. \n\n* Report of Ibe Minister of Public Instruction. \n\n\n\nCONCLTJSIOlSr. 401 \n\nthis class we know, but a few so worthless that they do not \ndeserve to be numbered with the Swiss people, who are one and \nall the loyal subjects of the Confederacy, and would at any \nmoment sacrifice for it their "lives, their fortunes, and their \nsacred honour." \n\nIt is said also that kings and emperors have not yet given up \nthe strife \xe2\x80\x94 have not ceased to intrigue, especially at Geneva \nand Neuchatel, with the hope of gaining, either by gold or \ndiplomacy, these coveted provinces ; and that if not successful, \nere another year a French army will stand on their borders to \ndemand what they will then not have the power to refuse. For \nourselves, we do not believe Napoleon III., ambitious and wily \nas he may be, is capable of such baseness ; but if he is, we can \nonly say let him try ; he will have a fruitful soil the next year, \nwatered with the blood of thousands. \n\n\n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. \n\n\n\nI. \n\n\n\nIt is to be regretted that there is no comprehensive and popular history of \nSwitzerland in the English language, and until within a year there existed none \nin any language. English readers are familiar with a few important events, \nwhich the guide-books have transcribed from German authors, though we \nhave seldom found them correct in facts or dates, and much less in opinions. \nFor the material of the following summary we are indebted to the folio \nvolumes entitled "La Suisse Historique," and. "La Suisse Pittoresque," \npublished lately in Geneva; the chapters concerning the different cantons \nbeing furnished by various learned men and popular authors from each. We \nhave also consulted the twenty volumes of Chronicles in German, entitled \n"Gemalde der Schweiz," recording the minutest particulars of history, \nchronology, and statistical information concerning every canton. The atten- \ntion just now attracted towards Switzerland has led us to believe that the \nconnecting links we here furnish will be traced with interest by all who wish \nthoroughly to understand her position and resources. \n\nThe people of Switzerland, considered in any light, cannot be understood \nwithout a knowledge of their history. What they are we cannot at all \nappreciate without knowing what they were. And if any author, centuries \nsince, had given us in detail the life of the " shepherds on the hills," we \nmight transcribe it almost literally ; for those who watch the herds and tend \nthe flocks have not changed, and hundreds of years hence will probably see \nthem nearly the same. Unless by some strange convulsion these mountains \n\n403 \n\n\n\n404 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nshould be levelled into plains, or man should no more require flesh and milk \nfor food, the Alps must ever present the same scenes ; for no other inhabitants \ncan people their solitudes, and in no other way can they be made to con- \ntribute to the support of human life. \n\nTwo thousand years before Christ, some parts of the country were in- \nhabited, but anything definite concerning the people cannot be known until \nthe Romans became their masters. They were accustomed to denominate all \nwho dwelt to the north beyond their own limits. Hyperboreans, and the mys- \nterious regions which the Alps hid from their view and protected from their \naggressions they believe to be the workshop of Cyclops, where blazed con- \ntinually his mighty forge. \n\nThere are many evidences that their religion was that of the Druids.* \nThey worshipped a God whom they called " All Fater," Father of All, and \nwhom they believed to be omnipotent and omnipresent. They worshipped \nalso the sun, and moon, and stars as his agents. They believed he lived \nin the forests, and would be angry if they were destroyed. But to kill the \nferocious animals who peopled them was a proof of heroism which was \npleasing in his sight. Among the Alps animals were regarded with a kind \nof homage, but not as gods. Fire, air, and water were also invoked as \nmediators, which was the case among all simple people. Where the mind \nis uncultivated, and the power of the spirit not in the ascendency, some- \nthing tangible and which their eyes can behold is needed, which leads them \nto the Great Invisible ! \n\nSome of their relics, and many of their customs, indicate a Scandinavian \norigin, and there are also traces of the Persians and the people of the East. \nIn the time of Julius Caesar they were no more in number than the present \npopulation of one of their cities. Yet in their earliest history are discovered \nthe elements of a confederacy ; and some have ascribed to each canton a \ntribe, or clan, and over each a chief, who ruled by military force. They \nmay have originated in many countries ; those who settled in the North per- \nhaps in Germany ; in the south-east are many traces of the Etruscans, and in \nthe south-west, of the Celts and Greeks. Old chronicles say, Francus de- \nscended from Priam, son of Troy, and the Helvetians from Hell, son of Gomer, \ngrandson of Japhet : or Franc may be from a Greek word meaning sincere, \nand the Helvetians, sons of Hell, from their ferocity. \n\nThey were found divided into classes ; nobles, including those who be- \nlonged to the religious or military order, and plebeians, who had been slaves \nbut were now either entirely free, or having been made so, experienced still \nsome restraints. \n\n* Not the least curious of these testimonies to the existence of this curious order of \npriesthood are what are termed the Druid\'s foot^ a symbol in the form of two equi- \nlateral triangles linked together thus ^, and which are to be seen on some of the old \n\nhouses in cities still, bearing the name of the Druid\'s foot, though those who placed it \nthere probably did not know what it meant, and those who now walk out and in be- \nneath it know still less. Like the Penates of Rome, it is preserved as a link with the \ndays of old, and reverenced for some virtue their forefathers supposed it possessed. \n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. 405 \n\nIt was a century before the Christian era that the Romans sent to explore \nHelvetia, and on the shores of Lake Constance was fought the first battle, \nwhen Diviko was the Helvetian hero. To trace the progress and conse- \nquences of Roman conquest is not necessary ; they were the same every- \nwhere. But in the words of one of their own historians, " though often con- \nquered, they were never subject, for a civilization perfected under a yoke \nand in chains has no sure foundation." \n\nTraces of the reUgion, laws, manners, and customs of the Romans are \nabundant. Both Basle and Geneva were Roman colonies, and the names of \nthe family of Caesar will be seen on milestones from Valais to Vevay, Ville- \nneuve, and Zug. \n\nTowards the end of the second century the Germans drove the Romans \nfrom the northern part of Helvetia and established themselves as permanent \npossessors. Their religion taught the sacrifice of human victims, and the first \nChristian missionaries found the hands of the people of Zurich imbrued in \nhuman blood. So late as 640 were still found traces of these heathen altars, \nand the fires are still kindled on their mountains, which form one of the links \nin the chain to prove the faith of their fathers. \n\nThe inhabitants of the south-eastern part were more peaceful in their na- \nture, and became, in a measure, incorporated with their conquerors, con- \nsenting to live under the same laws and to speak the same language. So \nearly as the second century there were flourishing Christian communities on \nthe banks of Lake Leman, and, long before this, they believe their soil to \nhave been hallowed by the footsteps of Paul, who stopped in Geneva on his \nway to France, where he built a church ; and Peter to have preached the \nGospel in Valais. Their disciples were scattered everywhere, and in some \ncantons earned the glory and the crown of martyrdom. \n\nBut the Christian religion was an essential auxiliary to the policy of \nFrance, and it was after her conquests and during her reign that Christianity \nwas propagated thi\'oughout Helvetia. Burgundiau, German, Gothic, and \nLombard became subject to France, and later, when Charlemagne was their \nking, here was the centre of his vast empire and the radiating point of his \ninfluence. Switzerland abounds still more than Germany in traditions, \nlegends, and authentic histories concerning him. He was obliged to cross \ntheir mountains on his way to Italy, and brave Swiss are said to have formed \nhis advance guard in his transalpine conquests, and for their courage and \nfidelity to have received the famous trumpets which have played so conspi- \ncuous a part in their own historical battles, called the bull of Uri, the cow of \nUnterwald, and the horn of Lucerne. Their popular songs are full of recitals \nwhich refer to his exploits, and though many be only legendary, it is matter \nof history that he built churches, established monasteries, and patronized \nscience. He modified the feudal system, which had been introduced by the \nGerman invaders,* and with him ended the reign of unbridled barbarism. \nHis missionaries taught at St. Gall, Zurich, and in Valais. \n\n* Feudalism existed in Switzerland in all its phases as it did in Germany, but it \nwould be unnecessary to enlarge upon it here. \n\n\n\n406 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nIt was under the Carlovingian princes that the first settlements among the \nhigh Alpine forests were made. Those who would fell the trees and cultivate \nthe land were promised special privileges. They were to be owners in their \nown right of the soil they cleared, and to choose their judges from among \nthemselves. The people of the plain and low countries, subject to lords who \nreaped the fruit of their labours, were thus induced to incur the perils of the \nwilderness, and were also out of the way of the hordes of barbarians who \nwere continually infesting the land. They at first followed the courses of \nthe large rivers, and then of those which led them into the lateral valleys, \nascending the mountains by degrees, gradually increasing in numbers, till \nthey were a strong power by themselves, ready to defy those who pursued \nthem. In these solitudes, and by this mountain air, was matured that spirit \nof liberty which all the despots of Europe have not been able to crush. \nThough they fell by thousands and tens of thousands in their battles, they \nrose again from their ashes, with increased strength and a more terrible \nmight, not only to resist but to endure. \n\nUri, Schwytz, and Unterwald, were long known as the Forest Cantons, \nthus indicating the nature of the country and the position of the people who \ninhabited it. So early as 857, we read that \'\xe2\x80\xa2 the herdsmen of Uri met thofee \nof Glarus in the high pastures of Unerhoden." \n\nBut it was under the Dukes of Zaringen, a powerful race of Burgundiau \nnobles, that flourishing cities were founded, and prosperous villages began \nto dot the till then desolate plains of Helvetia. Being defeated in their wars \nwith the German emperor, in the twelfth century, and humbled by the Bishop \nof Geneva, they turned their attention to Switzerland, and attempted to gain \npower and influence by promoting the interests of the people. They built \ncities, which were speedily filled with an enterprising population, whose \ntrade and commerce were great sources of revenue. The burghers were ever \noppressed, and therefore ever at war with the feudal lords, and this new \nprosperity became new source of dissension. But the people of the sur- \nrounding country united with the citizens, and they were soon able to brave \nthe power of their haughty masters. The commune, or village, was the com- \nmencement of the modern canton. Helvetia had been divided into g-aus, or \ndistricts, by the Romans, and which they called pagi, and Western Helvetia \nparcelled by the Burgundian kings ; but this was only for the purpose of \nlevying taxes and supporting armies. No privileges were enjoyed except by \nthe conquerors; the people being mere slaves to obey their mandates. But \nnow, while Frederic Barbarossa was employed in crusades and quarrels with \nthe popes, the principle of communal liberty which was taking root in the soil \nhe scarcely thought worth his attention, and these germs served as the begin- \nning of the constitutional freedom and legislative codes of modern society. Here \nwere the seeds of the tree which now casts its protecting shadows over the \nland. But the lords and bishops did not long slumber over this new state of \nthings. They saw the danger which threatened their supremacy, and during \nthe temporary absence of Berthold V. assembled their forces to conquer and \ntA]:e possession of his kingdom. \n\nBut he returned in season to defeat their plans ; and having now become \n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. 407 \n\nso powerful by the multiplication, not of armies, but of peaceful subjects, he \nwas considered worthy of the imperial crown, which was offered him by the \nGuelphs. This he refused, and after long struggles with the prince of Savoy \nand the death of his two sons, he returned to his castle in Friburg, in Brisgau, \nwhere he died, February 14th, 1218, the last of the Zaringen dukes, and with \nwhom terminated their reign in Switzerland. It was now again united to the \nGerman empire. But the immediate government was entrusted to counts \nand landgrafs, who by inheritance and conquest soon became rich and pow- \nerful enough to vie with the emperor whose vassals they were. \n\nThe most illustrious of these families, whose history is most intimately con- \nnected with that of Switzerland, were those of the counts of Alsace and Argo- \nvie, usually at that time denominated Hapsburg, from a castle they possessed \nnear Aarau, in the canton of Aargau, and who owned vast estates in Helvetia. \nKudolph II., fifth heir of his line, inherited in 1240 all these lands and titles, \nwith an ambition still more grasping and insatiable, and which was at length \nrewarded by the imperial crown, after years of long and bloody wars with \nthe equally aspiring house of Savoy. Having at first neither time not power \nto subdue them, he made continual concessions to the people of the Forest \nCantons, who were ever complaining of encroachments upon their rights. \nWhilst he lived there was no serious revolt, but immediately upon his death, \nand the accession of his son, they began to talk of unions and associations \nfor mutual protection. The first proposition was made by Zurich, and se- \nconded by the Forest Cantons. Their first written treaty of alliance is a memo- \nrable document, which was not discovered till the end of the last century, when \na Latin copy was found among the archives of Schwytz, and a German copy in \nStanz, Canton Unterwald, both bearing the date August 12, 1291. We give \nit entire : \xe2\x80\x94 \n\n\n\n" In the name of the Lord. Amen. \n\n" This is to protect our honour and to watch over the public good, to con- \nsolidate peace and tranquillity. Be it then known to each and all, that the \npeople of the valley of UjH^ the general assembly of Schwytz, and the moun- \ntaineers of the lower valleys, considering the crisis of the present time, have \npromised in good faith, in order to be better able to defend their persons and \ngoods, to afford reciprocal aid with money and arms, within and without the \nvalleys, against those who shall do violence to one or all, or any wrong what- \never to their persons or goods. We renew by the present act our ancient \nform of confederation, in such a manner, however, that each of us who has a \nlord shall be bound to render him obedience, and to serve him conformably \nto his condition and duty. \n\n" We have resolved unanimously not to receive or to admit into our valleys \nany judge who has bought his office with money, or who does not dwell \namong us, and is not our countryman. If there should arise any dissension \namong the confederates, the most prudent among them shall interfere to re- \nconcile the parties, and if in any case one shall reject the decision, the others \n\n\n\n408 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nshall oblige it to submit. These ordinances are to establish our good, and \ncontribute to our prosperity. In testimony whereof this present act has re- \nceived the seal of the three communities and valleys aforesaid.\'\' \n\nBy this is proved that they had no idea of an3\'thing but continuing subjects \nof the empire, and their league was merely to protect themselves against the \ntyranny and usurpations of inferior agents, who resided in their midst, and \ncould not endure to see them enjoying rights and privileges which every- \nwhere else were considered the peculiar prerogatives of what they termed \n" rank and birth." The emperor himself often disapproved of the acts of the \nbaihflfs, but so far away could not control them. \n\nThese transactions took place towards the close of the last crusade, which \nhad fanned the spirit of liberty In every part of Europe. \n\nOn the death of Rudolph of Hapsburg, the imperial crown was again dis- \nputed between his son Albert and the house of Nassau, and in this contest \nSwitzerland was divided, Berne and Zurich preferring the latter, and the \nother principal cities choosing to remain subject to Austria. But in the \ndevelopments of the projects of the family of Hapsburg they soon learned \nthat they had no permanent good to expect from their rule. Albert, having \nseveral sons, wished to provide them all with a domain suitable to their rank, \nand formed the plan of subduing Helvetia entirely to his will, to be dismem- \nbered and parcelled as he pleased. He also wished to control the Alpine \npasses, in order to open a free way for bis army into Italy. He at first \nattempted to treat with them, but unfortunately his emissaries were coarse \nand vulgar, insulting the people whom they came to conciliate, and hasten- \ning the strife they were sent to appease. \n\nIt is here that the story of Tell and Gessler appears, which has been pub- \nlished in every spelling-book and primer since spelling-books and primers \nwere known.. The beautiful drama of Schiller has made all their contem- \nporaries and the events of the time familiar in every language, and the stage \nhas given them a reality that makes them seem not things of the past but of \nthe present \xe2\x80\x94 a part of our own experience. There have been those who denied \nthe truth of the story of Tell and the apple\xe2\x80\x94 denied the existence of Tell at all ; \nand one author wrote a treatise to prove that the whole was merely a legend, \nand very similar to one prevalent in Denmark. The Government ordered all \nthe copies to be collected and burned. In every cottage the picture of the \n" three men of Grutli " hangs upon the wall. Like the Declaration of Inde- \npendence, with its thirty-one signers, in America, it is a household god. It \nis the first storj\'- the mother teaches to her lisping child, and the watchword \nwith which every son is inspired to bend the bow aifd point the arrow. It \nit in every school-book, the title-page of every almanac, and decorates the \ncouncil chamber, the rich man\'s parlour, and the village inn. "We often tried \nthe effect of doubting it, and were always amused with the indignation with \nwhich such an idea was received. "Do you really suppose there were any \nsuch persons, and that these things actually happened?" "To be sure we \ndo ; we know it very well. It is in our history. Why, indeed, it is all true ; \nwe know exactly where they all lived." We soon learned that if we wished \n\n\n\n(- \n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. 409 \n\nfor any favour in their eyes, we must not even for our amusement express \nany doubts about one of those heroic deeds of which they are still so proud ; and \nnot having really any doubt about them ourselves, we did not care to incur \ntheir ill-will for nothing. It would have been about the same if any one had \nsaid to us, " Washington was a tyrant, or anything less than the greatest and \nbest of men." Whoever should say it in earnest might never again hope to \n1?G the friend of an American. And we really think any person who should, \non Swiss soil, deny any portion of their honour to the men of Gfutli would \nbe banished without mercy. \n\nGessler was one of the bailiflTs sent by Albert of Hapsburg either to pacify \nor subdue the people, and said "he would soon make them so tame and soft \nthat he could wind them round his little finger." His castle was in K\'iiss- \nnacht., on the north side of the Watdstdtter See. As he was one day return- \ning from Uri, he passed through Steinen, and saw the house of Werner \nStauffacher, who was one of the chief men of Canton Schwytz, and one whom \nGessler knew to be a friend of freedom. Hating him, and wishing to show \nhis power, he said, "The house was too fine for a peasant; he could not \nallow that the people have houses like the lords of the land." Stauffacher, \nknowing that it was meant for a threat, was dispirited, and on returning \nhome his wife noticed the change in his usually pleasant countenance. She \nasked of him the reason, and heard the insult which he had received \xe2\x80\x94 he had \nbeen called a clown ; and this was not enough, he must live like the brutes \nin his stalls. She was still more indignant, and exclaimed, "Why do men \nbear these things? How long shall pride laugh and humility weep? Of \nwhat use that houses are inhabited by men? Shall we mothers raise sons for \nbeggars, and daughters to be slaves to strangers?" Her husband did not \nanswer, but went out silently, and crossed the lake from Brunnen, to his \nfriend, Walter Fiirst^ who lived at Attinghausen. \n\nHenry an der Walden lived in the valley of Melchthal in Canton Unter- \nwald, and owned also large fields, which he cultivated. The Bailiff of Lan- \ndenberg, upon some slight pretence, accused him of disrespect, and confis- \ncated his property. One day, while ploughing his field, his oxen were seized \nand led away, at which he was so exasperated that he entered the castle, \nstruck the servant of the bailiff in his face and fled. A messenger came to \nseek him, and his father said he was not at home, and he knew not where he \nwas. He also had taken refuge in Uri with Walter Fiirst. In revenge, they \nbound the aged Melchthal and dug out his eyes. \n\nOne of the lieutenants of this same, bailiff of Landenburg was one day pass- \ning the house of a peasant near Engelberg, who had a beautiful wife. For a \npretence, he ordered her to prepare him a bath, which she dared not refuse, \nand whilst doing so he insulted her. She fled to her husband, Conrad, who, \nenraged, entered the house, and struck the wretch with his hatchet. He too \nwas obliged to flee, and sought refuge in Uri : and the house of Fiirst was \nthe general rendezvous of those who experienced similar indignities. These \nbecame so frequent, that endurance was no longer possible to their chafed \nspirits, and they began to talk seriously of revolt. \n\nThe three principal men, Walter Fiirst, Werner Stauffacher, and Arnold an \n\n18 \n\n\n\n410 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nder Walden, held secret and serious council, and in order to be secure from \nintrusion and the spies of their enemies, chose a spot which then was far from \nany human habitation, and distant from any path man would be likely to tread. \n\nThe lake of the Forest Cantons, or in the language of the country, the \nVierwaldstaetter- See, stretches during its greatest length exactly east and \nwest ; but at Brunnen, suddenly turning a bold promontory, it forms a right \nangle, which gives to the remaining portion the direction of north and south. \nThis southern arm is sometimes called thecal/ ofFluelen, from the port at its \nextremity, where it receives the Eeuss, which, having come down from the \nSt, Gothard, flows through the lake and on to where it joins the Ehine* \nAbout a mile below the promontory, at the foot of a rocky ledge, is a little \nspot conspicuous from the bright green of its verdure. This is Griitli, or Riitli, \nthe secret place, where the three met whom history calls " honest conspira- \ntors," to talk of what could be done to free the land from their oppressors. \nEach agreed to enlist ten from his own canton, and thus form a little band to \nbe ready in any case of emergency, or at the appointed time to attack the \ncastles, and banish the whole train of foreign bailiffs from among them. \n\nThe castle of Ratzberg was the first among the doomed ones to fall. A \nyoung damsel who was servant to its lord had a lover among the conspirators, \nand it was agreed that she should admit him by a ladder at night to her room ; \nand through his aid several of his companions ascended in the same manner. \nOn the next morning. January 1st, 1308, the devout proprietors being at \nchurch, unaware Avhom they had left to "keep the castle," it was taken pos- \nsion of, and after delivering the goods and chattels to the proper owners, de- \nstroyed by fire. \n\nIt was the custom to make the Lord of Landenberg presents on New Year\'s \nmorning of goats and kids, poultry, grain, and whatever they had, the produce \nof their labour. The peasants resolved to observe the custom with a more \ngenerous oflFering than usual ; and so a large party came with their gifts, that \nwhen the doors were opened they entered without resistance. There is \nsomething a little revolting in such treachery, which can only be excused by \nconsidering the worse than treachery they had experienced. \n\nThe oath to which they were all bound, was " To remain true to each other \ntill death ; not to act separately ; to protect their ancient rights and free- \ndom; and also not to harm the people, cattle, or goods of the Count of Haps- \nburg ; to banish the bailiff and dependents ; to shed no drop of useless \nblood;. but the freedom and rights they had received from their fathers to \ntransmit undiminished to their children. \n\nThus remarks a Scottish author : "These poor mountaineers in the four- \nteenth century furnish perhaps the only example of insurgents, who, at the \nmoment of revolt, bound themselves as sacredly to be just and merciful to \ntheir oppressors as to be faithful to each other, and we may add, who carried \nout their intentions." \n\nIn the pictures of the " Three men of Grutli,^^ they are represented as \nclasping the left hands and holding the right aloft with the thumb and two \nfore-fingers raised, the others shut into the palm. Their dress is the skins of \nanimals fashioned differently, according to the idea of the artist. \n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. 411 \n\nTell had married the daughter of Walter Fiirst, and thus being the son-in- \nlaw of the chief conspirator was of course admitted to their councils. His \nname is said to signify rash, or to talk without reason, which corresponds to \nthe English signification, a similarity whch is very striking between many of \nthe Swiss and English Avords. In the history of Tell, his character seems to \nhave acquired for him the name, or else the name was given him in conform- \nance to very early exhibitions of an impulsive nature, or it may have been by \naccident, as often happens, though no great occasion reveals it to the world. \nBut whether he was rightly named or not, his rashness came very near mar- \nring their well-planned scheme. He lived in Burglen, in Canton Uri, not far \nfrom Attinghausen,\' and became one of the thirty who were to surprise the \ncastles. \n\nThe tyrant Gessler had observed, or his fears led him to think he had, \ncertain signs of discontent among the people, which prompted him to put \ntheir loyalty to the proof. It being market-day in Altdorf, which is between \nAttinghausen and Burglen, and was probably the centre then of the scattered \npopulation, he caused a pole to be erected, upon which his cap was hung, \nand all who passed by were commanded to pay it homage. An unusual num- \nber were gathered together, and Tell at length observed a commotion in the \ncrowd, which attracted him to the spot where the pole stood. Pretending \nnot to see it, he marched proudly by, making no signs of doflQug his cap as the \nothers had all done. This being remarked, he was seized and ordered to bow \nto the signal, or the dungeon would be his punishment. This he refused, and \nthe tyrant drew near, evidently not displeased with an act of disobedience \nwhich would give him occasion to exercise his power, and fill the people with \nterror. Suddenly the thought struck him that Tell was a famous archer, and \na fiendish smile crossed his coarse visage as he said : " You are renowned in \nthe land ; you shall buy your freedom with your skill. They say at a distance \nof a hundred paces your arrow never fails. The distance being measured, \nyou shall cleave an apple from the head of your son." On hearing this, the \n\xe2\x80\xa2whole multitude uttered an involuntary cry of indignation at the heartless \ncruelty of the tyrant ; and the bold forester who had never known fear, and \nfor himself would never have prayed for mercy, threw himself upon his knees \nand begged with tears that he might not be made the murderer of his child. \nBut he stood before one who had never known mercy, and though aged men \noffered their lives to save their friend from so revolting a deed, it was only \nthe more triumphantly commanded ; \xe2\x80\x94 the greater the suffering he could in- \nflict, the more he exulted. All remonstrances being in vain, the arrows were \nselected, the paces counted, and the little boy placed at the end of the line \nbeneath a linden-tree, to which he refused to be bound, saying, " He would \nnot move or wink, and had no fear, for he knew he should receive no harm \nfrom his father\'s hand." Still the father hesitated, made weak by his love \nand horror of the crime he feared to commit. Three times he bent the bow \nand let it fall unstrung. The stillness of death reigned in the circle of strong \nmen, while hearts that never beat before with terror, throbbed convulsively. \nMothers wept and clasped their children in speechless agony. Every eye was \nstrained to painful intensity. Every spirit breathed a prayer to heaven. At \n\n\n\n412 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nlength a wild shout proclaimed that it was finished. The arrow winged its \nway unerringly, and the father raised his eyes to heaven and cried : " God, \nI thank thee !" The next moment the boy was pressed to his bosom. Ashe \nknelt, a second arrow fell from its hiding-place in the folds of his vest of cha- \nmois, and Gessler coming near demanded to what purpose it had been \ndestined. Fearing a repetition of the terrible command, the tongue of the \nbrave archer faltered. " Nay, tell me the truth, why have you concealed \nthis arrow ?" Now standing erect, and with a glance which made the \ntyrant cower, he said, " To pierce thy heart, monster, had I killed my child." \n\nHe had promised life if the shot did not fail, and this promise he did no,*; \ndare to break ; but he said, " I know your rebellious spirit, and will bind it in \nchains which no man can loosen. You shall live, but in a dungeon so deep \nthat neither sun, nor moon, nor stars, can penetrate its darkness." Amidst \nthe mufiBed execrations of the populace, he was seized and bound, no one \noffering again remonstrance or interference, and taken to the little skiflf \nwhich lay moored in the Haven of Pluelen. The day of retribution was near; \nthey had not long to smother their wrath. \n\nBut scarcely had they embarked, when a wild storm arose. The sea was \nlashed into fury, and the boatsmen plied their oars in vain. " We are lost !" \nthey exclaimed. The darkness of night spread over the scene, and the flash- \ning lightning and echoing thunder seemed to the simple people the voice of \nGod denouncing judgment against him who was, in the eyes of One who \nsearcheth the heart, a murderer. They asked that Tell might be set free, for \nhe was as skilful in guiding the helm as in bending the bow, and his arm \nmight yet save them from a watery grave. Their prayers were at first in \nvain ; but the storm becoming more fearful, and death, the grim mes- \nsenger before whom the guilty, however mighty, must tremble, seeming \nevident, the cords were commanded to be cut. The strong, brave man was \nfree. He took the oars, and strange it seemed to the old mariners, who had \nresigned them in despair, as they beheld the boat obey him like a thing of \nlife. It darted like the arrow he had so successfully winged, but not to its\xc2\xab \ndestined port. Unheeded, he neared the shore, to where an opening in the \ncliffs made it probable to him to secure a foothold on the rocks, and by a \nsudden spring, he leaped and stood defiant before them on land, while the \nboat was tossed back upon the waters. Only an instant he remained fixed \nupon the spot, and bounded into the forest. The little bark danced at will \nupon the waves till the storm abated, when they guided it into port at Brun- \nnen, and took their way over the mountains to Kussnacht. \n\nBut an unquenchable thirst for revenge was kindled in the heart of the \ninjured father. With the stealth of the Indian he tracked his foe, who \nhad scarcely arrived at his castle when the unerring arrow transfixed his \nheart. \n\nThis has been called a stain on the Swiss revolution, as it was an unneces- \nsary deed, and committed more to avenge a private wrong than to achieve \nfreedom for the people. Yet no one believes an instant that an indignity, \nwhich was merely personal, could have received this punishment. The \nwhole land was groaning under a sense of insulted and outraged honour, and \n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. 413 \n\nthis last act had shown them that they had nothing to hope from obedience \nand the most abject submission. The only reproval Tell received from his \ncompatriots was, that they feared he had frustrated their plans. And what- \never the cool judgment may say, the heart involuntary approves. No tyrant \nhas been more thoroughly execrated, and no hero more applauded. \n\n\n\nII. \n\n\n\nWhen the emperor heard of the banishment of his agents, and the destruc- \ntion of their castles, he prepared immediately to punish the insurgents, and \nmarched towards Switzerland with a powerful army. But scarcely on its \nborders, he was defeated by a traitor in his own ranks. \n\nHis nephew, instigated by private wrongs, with the aid of two or three \naccomplices allured him across the river, which would separate him from his \ncamp and place him beyond the reach of aid, and there struck the deadly \nblow which branded him through all time as the midnight assassin. Almost . \nbeneath the walls of his own castle the proud emperor was left to die alone. \nBut a peasant girl passing by, soothed his last moments, and carried the in- \ntelligence, without knowing his rank, to the castle. \n\nThe murderer escaped, but a thousand innocent persons became the victims \n\'Of the haughty queen\'s revenge, which she afterwards repented, and spent \nfifty years in a convent, endowed by their confiscated estates, in prayers and \nfastings to atone for her crimes. \n\nSeveral of the immediate successors of Albert continued to the Forest Canton \ntheir privileges, preferring to retain them as friends rather than convert them \ninto foes. But at length the family of Hapsburg determined to renew their \npretensions, and the next two centuries present us only a continued series of \nbattles and skirmishes between the princes of this house and the Swiss \nmountaineers. \n\nWestern Switzerland was not involved in this struggle, their position and \ninterests uniting them with France, Burgundy, and Savoy. From the time \nof the oath in Griitli, and the revolution of the Forest Cantons, Switzerland \nis divided, till the Reformation gives them again a common cause. \n\nAt Morgarten, in the Canton Zug, 6th December, 1315, was fought the first \nbattle that acquired for the Swiss a name which attracted the attention of \nEurope to their affairs. Here they showed that they were not mere wild \nrebels of the mountains, but brave in war as wise in council, and no con- \ntemptible opponents for the disciplined corps of princes. A few days after \nthis victory they renewed the solemn oath of Griitli^ meeting at Brunnen, for \nthis purpose, and assuming the appellation of -EidgcTzossen\xe2\x80\x94 confederates \xe2\x80\x94 \nleagued by the same oath. \n\nThey had eight years before expelled the Austrian bailifis, but without re- \n\n\n\n414: THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nsistance. Now they had baptized their cause with blood. Thirteen hundred \nshepherds, who had never seen a battle, gained a victory over twenty thou- \nsand armed men, commanded by king and nobles. Their renown filled the \nland, and the three little cantons became the centre around wliich rallied in a \nfew years the remaining states of the Confederacy. Lucerne joined them in \n1332, Zurich in 1351, Glarus and Zug in 1352, and Berne in 1353. \n\nHenceforth they are the eight cantons, and instead of Helvetians we find \nthem adopting the name and escutcheon of the little canton whose heroes \nhad so distinguished themselves in the battles and councils of the republic ; \nwhether by definite agreement or common consent is not known, though it \nseems a pity that the Federal arms should not have been characteristic and \nsignificant. \n\nThe Swiss Confederation, as we have seen, did not begin, as in Germany, by \nthe union cities. The first efforts for freedom were by shepherds and agri- \nculturists. The cities which had received charters and privileges, remained \nlong indifferent to the brave Forest Cantons, and not till they were joined by \nLucerne, thought of granting them either aid or encouragement. \n\nAs commerce and industry increased, the bourgeois gained influence, and \nan aristocracy of wealth took the place of the old one of birth and blood. \nThese, as in ancient Koms, formed tha patriciat, and by degrees through as- \nsociations, acquired an influence in public affairs. Thus we see a constant \nantagonism between the noblesse and the communes in all the Zaringen cities, \namong which Berne was always conspicuous. It is curious to observe the \nwrestlings and never wearying struggles of the people against their op- \npressors, the princes of Hapsburg, who had the nobility always on their \nside ; yet during all these two centuries the people were, with scarcely an \nexception in small or in large expeditions, victorious. On one occasion, a \nBernese noble made the impious exclamation, " that God must have turned \nburgher.^\' \n\nThe battle of Lauffen, in 1337, which the people of Berne fought against \nthe noblesse of Western Switzerland, increased their self-reliance, and" gave \nthem a consequence which admitted them to the Confederacy. But Lucerne \nhad been long a member before her sons were called to martyrdom, and the \nname of Sempach enrolled beside that of Morgarten. Seventy-one years after \nLeopold of Austria led his army into Helvetia, his son experienced a defeat \nas inglorious, in the same unworthy cause. Here the King, six hundred \nnobles, and two thousand soldiers fell before an army which at the beginning \nwas not fourteen hundred strong. Every battle is commemorated by a chapel \nwith rude paintings upoh its walls. On those of Sempach appears con- \nspicuous Arnold of fVinkelried, from Unterwald, who seeing they were in \ndanger of being overcome, and wishing to inspire them with fresh courage, \nexclaimed, " Protect my wife and children ; I go to open a path to freedom," \nand rushing forward gathered in his arms as many lances as he could grasp, \nand plunged them in his bosom. As they bore him from the field, they asked \nhim if he had no message to his friends. "None," was his remarkable \nanswer, "but say to the people, never allow a bailiff" to remain in office \nmore than one year." This was in 1386, about five hundred years ago, \n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. 415 \n\nand a striking testimony to the corrupting influence of power, and the \nnecessity for a free people who would retain their liberty, to change often \ntheir rulers ! \n\nOne after the other every canton becomes the theatre of battle, and sees \nsome little spot bathed in the blood of her martyrs. But, alas, when we have \nrecorded one more, the pure spirit which pervaded their councils and inspired \ntheir courage is dimmed. Success and power have not been without their \ninfluence on them. The rigid respect for the rights of others, which has \nhitherto characterized their victories, is mingled with a love of conquest and \na wish to exhibit their bravery, whether it be in a good or an evil cause. \n\nThe battle of Naefles, in Glarus, 1389, is the last of those conducted purely \non defensive principles, in which their glory was without a shadow. With \nthis terminated their fear of Austria ; their liberties were consolidated, and \nthe noblesse began to respect and court the alliance of the bourgeois. \n\nYet in other parts of Switzerland were enacted nearly the same scenes, as \nthey threw off the yoke of the nobles and emancipated themselves from \nfeudal despotism. \n\nSo early as 1378 the Suabian cities had formed a league with Constance, the \ncity of the lake, and the bourgeois of St. Gall had been permitted to unite \nwith them. Appenzell prayed for the privilege of placing herself under the \nsame protection, and was denied, because they feared their strength would \nhot be equal to the opposition they should experience. She then appealed \nto the confederate c^tons, and on deliberating upon it in their assemblies, \nonly three were in favour of receiving her. But Schwyiz would not consent \nto refuse to others what they had so gladly accepted for themselves ; and \noffered to form with her a partial league, giving her all the aid in their power. \nThus strengthened, they broke out into open revolt, resisting the nobles and \ndestroying the castles on their own territory, and marching their armies \nacross the Rhine, till even Austria trembled at their approach. In one cam- \npaign they devastated twelve cities and sixty-four castles, freeing themselves \nentirely from a foreign yoke. The indignities which they experienced were \nthe same in character as those inflicted upon the people of every country \nsubjected to feudal authority. Their bailiffs were the same coarse, vcilgar \nboors, as we have seen in the Forest Cantons. \n\nUpon one of the mountains of Schwandi, a castle was tenanted by an"agent \nappointed by the abbey of St. Gall. He liked to sit in his tower and look \ndown upon the lovely valley, and watch the people at their toil, the subjects \nover whom he possessed absolute power. But a little boy, who passed every \nday on his way to the Alps, attracted his special attention. His father lived in \nthe Rachentobel, and was a miller and baker, with a large family to support. \nThe little boy brought milk and whey from the pastures. One day as he \npassed, the nobleman called to him, and said, "What is your father, and \nwhat does your mother?" " My father bakes unpaid bread, and my mother \nmends old clothes.\'\' " Why do they do this ?" "Because you take all the \nmoney !" On hearing this the bailiff thi-eatened to set his dog on him. \n\nThe little boy ran home and related his adventure, and the father told him \nnext time he went to the mountain to put a cat in his pail. No sooner did \n\n\n\n416 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntlie nobleman see him coming on the following- day than he called out, "Now, \nyou jackanapes, can you tell whether a magpie has more black feathers or \nwhite?" "More black." "Why?" "Because the devil has more to do \nwith tyrants than with angels." Immediately the dog was set loose, but the \nsame instant out jumped the cat, and, as was very natural, the fight was \nbetween the animals, whilst the boy ran laughing home. The nobleman had \nhim brought back by force, and thrust his spear into his side, telling him to \nbe careful in future of his tongue. The miller related the event to his neigh- \nbours, and they gathered together from all the hills and attacked the castle. \nIts possessor, having no power to resist, fled to a neighbouring mountain ; \nand when he looked back, saw his proud fortress in flames. The men of \nSchwandi have been ever peculiarly honoured; for though this was the \nbeginning, they did not stop till every stronghold of these hated tyrants had \nmet a similar fate. \n\nIn the Orisons, now denominated Graubiinden, the work was more fearful \nstill, because the feudal lords were almost as the trees of the forest for multi- \ntude. The ruins of more than one hundred and sixty castles may still be \ncounted upon their mountains ; and not till a century after the men of GruUi \nhad become free from all feudal tyranny did the people of the Orisons begin \ntheir struggles. They, too, were at fir.-^t exasperated by the same insults. A \nbeautiful peasant girl in the valley of the Engadine attracted the admiration \nof the Lord of Gardaval. He had watched her as she went on some house- \nhold commission from her village of Comogask, and went forth to meet her. \nShe promised to return to him if he allowed her to go home first and apprise \nher father, who would be anxious at her absence. Thinking it safer to trust \nher, he extracted a formal oath, and she hastened home. The father said, \n"You have promised, and must keep your word; but I will go with you." \nHe communicated his purpose to a few trusty friends, and the daughter \narrayed herself in bridal attire to meet her lover. When they were near \nthe appointed rendezvous the father concealed himself in a thicket, and the \nfair maiden went on, and was greeted with a joy the greater because of the \npartial distrust in spite of her promise. But in another instant the father \nhad plunged a dagger in his heart, and at a given signal his companions \nappeared and destroyed the castle. \n\nJohn Chalder has been called the GiHson Tell, and the bailiff to whom he \nowed allegiance another Gessler. He saw one day the horses of Lis master \nturned to feed in his corn, and killed them on the spot, for which he suffered \na long and gloomy imprisonment. The dungeons of those days are described \nelsewhere. One almost wonders how the people could be betrayed into any \ncrime that should doom them to live within their dark and narrow walls. One \nday after Chalder was released he saw the bailiff passing his house whilst they \nwere at dinner ; and wishing to atone for his former rashness, he invited him \npolitely to partake of their meal. Upon which this polished nobleman " spit \nin the soup," thinking the dungeon had tamed its victim to unresisting meek- \nness. Quick as thought, the peasant grasped him by the throat, and plunged \nhis head into the steaming dish, saying, "Now eat the soup you have sea- \nsoned." The universalwarwhichfollowed left few lords or castles in their midst- \n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. 417 \n\nAt every step is some memorial of these struggles, some monument of these \nvictories, some festival to keep the deeds of their fathers in remembrance. \nThey are related still around the fireside, and become famihar to every child \nbefore he leaves the parental roof, though they may not know that they are \nrecorded in a single book. \n\nBat they had been so long in the field, that war had become a passion ; and \nwhen no linger obliged to defend their legitimate soil, they became the ag- \ngressors. The castles of Hapsburg and their broad domains in Aargau and \nThurgovie they determined to add to their possession, and coveted also the \ninheritance of other princes lying on their borders. They were not less suc- \ncessful in conquering than in defending, and soon became enriched by large \nadditions to their territory. But they did not give to the conquered people \nthe rights which their fathers had bought "with so much treasure and so \nmuch blood." They were treated as subjects, and not allowed to choose \ntheir own bailiffs; the privilege which they had considered so precious, and \nfor which they had sacrificed so much. \n\nIn these conflicts they became\'embroiled with each other, and rival princes \nenlisted Swiss against Swiss. The Reformation commenced, and popes, and \ncardinals, and clergy added their quarrels to those of kings, nobles, and sol- \ndiers. It was during the session of the great council at Basle, that occurred \nthe most famous of all their battles. They were at war with Germany, and \nFrance was the ally of the Emperor. The Dauphin, afterwards Louis XI., \ncame with an army of thirty thousand men to aid the Emperor, and with the \nhope of throwing consternation into the council, in revenge for their having \ndeposed Pope Eugene. The Swiss in their haste could assemble only fourteen \nhundred men. They met just outside the walls, and the battle lasted ten hours. \nThe French remained masters, because the Swiss resigned it with their death, \nonly ten being left to tell the story. It was considered disgraceful that they \ndid not die, and they were not permitted to return into the cantons. This \nwas the battle of St. Jacob, 1447, and they call it the Thermopylae of their \nhistory. \n\nIt was their bravery on this occasion which led Louis to say, it was better \nto have such a people for friends than enemies, and to propose, instead of \nprotracting the war, that they should become his allies. This was the date \nand origin of that long period of "foreign service " which has been so repre- \nhended, so misrepresented by their enemies, so regretted by themselves, and \nonly this year come to an end. Whilst we write, it is announced that the \nregiments which are in Naples, and which have been long the only ones re- \nmaining in the pay of a foreign prince, are returning home ; and the Govern- \nment has passed a law, that whoever again enlists as a soldier under any but \nhis own country\'s flag, loses his citizenship, and is henceforth an outlaw. \nThey have long endeavoured to bring about this result, but like many another \nevil, it was easy to plant it, but very difficult to root it out. In the day of its \nbeginning, war was the one glorious occupation for men of all ranks, and \nlabour a degradation. Those who could not engage in agriculture had no \nother resource, and they saw that, by becoming the ally of France, they \nshould secure protection against their increasing foes, and avert evil from \n\n18* \n\n\n\n418 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntheir country. It was not tlie custom then to look forvrard to results, and \nthere was yet for centuries no united, harmoniously-acting Government to \ncontrol the people. What was attempted by one canton was resisted by \nanother, and the emisaries of every despot in Europe were constantly in- \ntriguing in their councils. \n\nLater, when there, was a little respite from war, young men en]isted for a \nseries of from four to five or six years, as a means of gaining a little money \nto render their homes more comfortable. Being allowed to visit their friends \nevery year, a communication was kept up, and the love of their country kept \nbright. Austria, at one time, paid the Canton Graubiinden one thousand \ndollars a year to preserve peace with the Tyrol. Francis I. paid during his \nreign more than three millions of dollars to Switzerland for soldiers. Louis \nXin. paid them a million and a half of dollars, and from 1474 to 1774 \nthey received fifteen hundred millions from Prance. In the course of this \nperiod eight hundred thousand men fought in the battles of French kings, and \nsix hundred thousand were slain. One of the ministers of Louis XIV., who \ndisapproved of employing the Swiss, said to him, "Sire, with the thalers \nwhich have been paid to the Swiss, a high-road might be paved from Paris to \nBasle." Marshal Stuppa, from Graubiinden, being present, replied, " Yes, \nand if the blood which has been shed for France by Swiss were poured into a \nchannel, Ave might sail in ships from Paris to Basle." \n\n"Point d\'argent, point de Suisse" (No money, no Swiss), has been \nrepeated for centuries to their reproach. We saw in one of their journals \nthis summer an explanation to their honour, and one which seems quite as \nprobable. When the Duke of Sforza said to the captain of a Swiss regiment, \nafter a victory, "Help yourselves like knights, for I have no money," the \nanswer was, " This we cannot do ; where there is no money there can be no \nSwiss," meaning that they could not serve without honourable reward, as \nplunder was not to their taste and not their custom \xe2\x80\x94 a scruple which it is \nwell known few knights of the same period were wont to entertain. \n\nUnder the several governments which they have served, the Swiss attained \nto the highest military honours. They have furnished marshals and generals \nto Austria, France, and Holland, to Spain, Portugal, and Italy ; and on ac- \ncount of tlie fidelity wl^iich never swerved when they had sworn allegiance, \nthey were ever entrusted Avith the most important and honourable posts. \nWho has not shed a tear over the fate of the noble phalanx which Napoleon \nkept as his choicest reserve at the battle of Waterloo, and who has not \nregretted that when he ordered them up as a forlorn hope he did not place \nhimself at their head ! He would have died gloriously, had he fallen where \nthey fell ! \n\nStill we must record it against them, that when America, struggling for \nliberty, appealed to them for aid, they refused ; and though we find in their \nchronicle a reason which they deemed sufficient, to us it seems but a vain \nexcuse. It would have made a bright page in their history had they stood \nside by side with the heroes of Bunker\'s Hill, Monmouth, and Saratoga. \n\nBy allying themselves with France they incurred the enmity of the Burgun- \ndian princes ; and Charles the Bold, to avenge this alliance, invaded their \n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. \n\n\n\n419 \n\n\n\ncountry, and gave them an opportunity again to display their valour on \nSwiss soil. In those wars their military renown reached the highest point, \nand then ended the heroic period of their history. \n\nThe battles of Grandson and Moral have no rivals in any country, among \nany people; but one of their own historians says, " This glory was dearly \nbought, for venality and corruption among their chiefs and counsellors were \nits attendanls. The people had fought, but the rulers had profited." The \nSwiss had a beautiful custom of kneeling in silent prayer on the battlefield. \nAnd it was in this position that they were surprised on the plain of Grandson, \nit being taken for one of submission ; but it enabled them to use their lances \nto greater effect among the cavalry of their enemies, and evidently gained \nthem the victory. At Morat, a town not far from Berne, a linden-tree was \ntheir council-house, which is still standing, and now with its spreading \nbranches might shelter an army instead of its chiefs. \n\nBjTon and Cooper have made these spots familiar to all English readers, \nand the costly hangings of the Burgundian camp, and the gold and diamonds \nof their princes, are still present among other curious relics of the sacristy \nof the cathedral of Berne. They are among the most beautiful specimens \nof the costume and manufactures of those days. Money and jewels were \npoured into the hands of the Swiss soldiers, for the duke fled almost alone \nover the mountains, leaving his wealth to the victors. \n\nIt was after these battles that the diplomats of every country came with \ntheir gold and their flatteries to secure the little republic as their ally. \nThere were not wanting good men and true, who had protested against sell- \ning themselves in any way to become the servants of princes ; but bad men \nhad gained the ascendency, and held the reins of government. \n\nNicholas von Flue, is the name of one of those patriots who appeared a \nburning and shining light in the midst of the corruption of those evil times, \nand standing up boldly and earnestly to speak in their councils, prevailed \nagainst the machinations which had nearly dissolved the Confederacy. \n\nDecember 22d, 1481, a new treaty was formed at Stanz, in Unterwald, for \nthe purpose of better regulating their internal affairs, that civil dissensions \nmight not make them a reproach and by-word among the nations ; and the \nsame day Friburg and Soleure were admitted to their union, but not to the \nfull privileges of their government. \n\nStill each canton had the power to cail a diet, which made them of almost \nridiculous frequency and insignificant importance. One attracts our particu- \nlar attention. It took place in 1492, in Berne. The year that Columbus with \nhis little fleet was groping his way over the yet trackless ocean, to find that \ngreat unknown world, here was assembled a federal council; but before \nthese turbulent political elements had fairly settled into harmony, America \nhad become a nation, with her diplomats in every court of Europe, her ves- \nsels on every sea, and her flag fluttering on every breeze. \n\nThis diet was to deliberate upon the Austrian and French alliance ; and we \nfind a little spark of that fearless spirit, which had never been quite extin- \nguished, in the answer of the then Secretary of State, when the Bishop of \nMayence exclaimed, " Give your support to Austria, or by this pen I hold \n\n\n\n420 THE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\nyou will be made to do it." The reply was, "Others have attempted to force \nus with halberds, which proved as poAverlessasyour goosequill." The Empe- \nror Maximilian I. attempted to win them by flattery, and when this did not \nsucceed, to conquer them again by force, attacking them simultaneously on \nall the frontiers of the north and east. But being everywhere repulsed, and \nfinally beaten at Dornach, they retired forever with their unjust pretensions. \n\nThree more cantons were now admitted to the Confederacy, Basle, Schaflf- \nhausen, and Appenzell, making the whole number thirteen ; though the eight \noriginal cantons still preserved to themselves some exclusive rights. \n\nWith this period begins the Reformation, the events of which are too fa- \nmiliar to need more than an allusion. Zwinglius and Calvin, (Ecolampadius \nand Forel, where the great Swiss reformers ; and the strife of parties was in \nthis not less bitter, and the religious wars not less devastating, than those of \nconquest and ambition. \n\nIn the works of their authors, we find curious remarks concerning the \ndifferent characters of the good men who were conspicuous in these struggles. \n\nZwinglius, they say, was a man of the world, and had learned what human \npassions were by mingling with men in all the relations of life. When curate \nat Glarus, he went with his parishioners to Italy, and stood by their side in \ntwo successful battles. Though not less good and noble himself, he was \nnot so censorious and exacting as some of his compeers. \n\nLuther had lived all his life the tenant of a cell, and knew nothing of the \nworld; his judgment was formed from the abstract idea of things, a meta- \nphysical conclusion without comparison. When Zwinglius attempted ta \narouse the pride and love of country of the people by patriotic appeals, \nLuther condemned him, saying the preaching of the Word was suflScient ; a \nsermon was better than the sword ; and whilst he was drinking his beer \nwith his companions, he felt that the truth he had set forth was at work in \nthe hearts of the people. \n\nCalvin said Luther had been spoiled by flattery, and the people thought he \n(Calvin) was too speculative, and not sufficiently republican. The doctrine \nof election was not a democratic doctrine^ and they could not listen to it ! \n\nHere Western Switzerland appears again in the drama, and the wars be- \ntween Catholic and Protestant deluge the land with blood. It was in one of \nthose that Zwinglius fell, having accompanied the Zurich regiments as their \nchaplain. His body was burnt with barbarous inhumanity by the fanatic \nsoldiers. Yet these very fanatics were the sons of the noble men of the \nForest Cantons, and for a whole century we see those who should have been \nbrethren, thus opposed in deadly strife, each fighting for what he believed to \nbe his country and his God. Alas, what crimes to be committed in the name \nof the Prince of Peace ! \n\nBut when these struggles Avere ended, there followed a long peace in the \ncantons, the longest they had ever known ; and now we see them continually \nruffled by little feuds concerning rights and privileges. The Forest Cantons \nwere always jealous of the cities, and feared the consolidation of power. \n\nZurich, seeing a tendency in the Government to concentrate and form an \naristocracy of birth, assembled her citizens to the number of six hundred, \n\n\n\nAPPENDIX. 421 \n\naud demanded lier rights at the point of the bayonet. They were granted \nwithout hesitation before the sword was unsheathed. \n\nIn Basle it was an aristocracy of wealth which threatened ; in Berne, So- \nleure, Friburg, and Lucerne, the ascendency of caste and party. Thus, for \nanother half century, we find Switzerland without any of the characteristics \nof a nation ; \xe2\x80\x94 the nobles tyrannizing over the citizens, and the cities tyran- \nnizing over the peasants. \n\nBut a brighter day is dawning, and in the midst of all this evil there is \nmuch good. Industry flourishes in the country, and in the cities art and \nlearning have awoke from their slumbers. The press is free, and opinion \nuntrammelled. \n\nThe next period is one of philosophy and thought. "We see stormy debates \nin their councils ; but there is a grandeur in their motives. If the aristocratic \nmajority prevails, the influence of the stormy minority is always good. In \nthe convulsions of their government we behold the ti-avail of thought and \nthe springs of action. There were then, as now, old fogies, who mourned \nthe " good old times," and opposed all innovation ; but the liberal and the \nprogressive obliged them to yield. \n\nThe democratic tendencies of the writings of Rousseau and Voltaire aroused \nthe elements of another party strife, and the aid of Louis XV. was invoked \nby the aristocrats to crush the fruitful germ of democracy ere it had taken \nroot. He sent an army to surround Geneva. In a council, one of his \ngenerals said to a deputy from Zurich, " Do you know that I am the repre- \n^sentative of the king, my master ?" " And do you know," replied the fear- \nless Zurich deputy, " that we are the representatives of our equals ?\'\' \n\nIn Neuchatel they had a dispute with Frederick of Prussia about imposts ; \nin Lucerne a quarrel about succession ; and, in 1770, still another revolution \nin Geneva about naturalization ; but all were the throes of Liberty in the va- \nrious stages of her development. \n\nOrder had in some measure settled herself in the land, and plenty began to \ncrown the labours of the husbandman and artisan, when the French revolu- \ntion swept like a whirlwind over Europe. Switzerland prayed to remain \nneutral, but kings and emperors had not forgotten the bravery of her sons ; \nand the peasantry, in the midst of their rural toils, remembered at the first \nsound of the tambour that they were warriors. Again their soil was drenched \nwith human blood, their government shattered, and their free institutions \noverthrown. These little republics, which seemed scarcely able to support \nthemselves, were taxed and despoiled to the amount of more than twelve \nmillions of dollars in money alone. \n\nBut Napoleon had the discernment to see that they could never be retained \nas a province of France, and offered a partial restoration of the old order of \nthings. He sent for deputies to meet at Paris from all the cantons, and \nlistening respectfully to their opinions, and as respectfully expressing hia \nown, they formed a new government, which secured them ten years of peace, \nand is known as the period of mediation. Six new cantons were added, mak- \ning now nineteen, and all on an equaUty, which they had never granted to \neach other. The administration of internal affairs was left to themselves, and \n\n\n\n422 TOE COTTAGES OF THE ALPS. \n\ntheir president of their own choosing. In return they were to furnish Napo- \nleon twelve thousand men. His overthrow placed them again at the mercy \nof the allies. But their experience had not been without its use. They had \nlearned that "union is strength." We see them in future more willing to \nsacrifice personal and cantonal interest to the good of the whole. \n\nGeneva, Neuchatel, and Valais, who had long been allies, were incorpo- \nrated into the Confederation, making the number twenty-two ; and the old \ntreaty of alliance, offensive and defensive, was renewed with many improve- \nments. Each canton was sovereign in its own affairs, and subjects existed no \nmore on Swiss territory. \n\nThe general government was called a Diet, and consisted of deputies from \neach canton. Still there existed privileges which kept a portion of the peo- \nple restless, and in two or three cantons caused a division. In Basle the \ncountry separated from the city ; the great ground of complaint being the \ninequality of representation in the general assembly. The Canton Appenzell \nwas already Outer and Inner Khoden ; the one being Catholic and the other \nProtestant. Discontents in many others led to the subject of a revision of \nall their constitutions. \n\nDuring all the years from 1815 to 1848, we see them in constant ferment, \nwhich had in more than one canton broken out into civil war, and as yet the \nfederal authority was not sufiBciently strong to quell these petty disturbances. \n\nIn 1847, took place the famous war of the Sonderbund, in consequence of \nthe suppression of many convents, and the banishment of the Jesuits. The \ninfluence of the priesthood in the little cantons where the Catholics were a^ \nmajority was a continual hindrance to progress in what concerned the gene- \nral good. The equal distribution of rights and privileges affected their posi- \ntion and revenues, and they opposed with all their strength the supremacy \nof federal power. \n\nThe year 1848 saw the final triumph of general over individual interests. A \ngrand Diet assembled at Berne, all the cantons being fully represented. The \ndegree of federal authority was still the bone of contention. What should be \nthe title of the President, the extent of his power, whether there should be \none chamber or two, and the principle of representation, kept them in stormy \ndiscussion many weeks. At length, one hundred and one cannon booming \nfrom the neighbouring heights announced the completion of their work. The \nlarge majority of fifteen cantons had united for the adoption of the federal \nconstitution, and chosen Berne to be the seat of the Federal Government. \nFor the detail of their enactments we have no space, but to all who doubt the \npower of a people to govern themselves, we commend their constitution ; and \nthose who think it possible to grant too much freedom to a people, may com- \npare the statistics of law and order in any part of Switzerland with those of \nthe countries which surround them. \n\nThe great marvel is, how through all these convulsions they have preserved \ntheir existence ; and though we hear it often prophesied, by those in whom \nthe thought is a wish rather than a conviction, that they will not remain long \nindependent, we believe there are not a hundred men in Switzerland who \nwould not stake life and fortune in defence of their country, and their coun- \ntry\'s freedom. \n\n\n\nAPK 15 !8a. \n\n\n\nBOOKS PUBLISHED BY CIIAS. SCRIBNER. \n\n\n\nTHIRD Tnoi SAND\xe2\x80\x94 NOW READY. \n\nDUST AND FOAM: OR, TWO CONTINENTS \nAND THREE OCEANS: \n\nBeing Wanderings in Mexico, Sou1.h America, the Sandwich Islands, \nPhillippines, China, East and "West Indies, Australia, Polynesia, (fee; \n\nBY T. ROBINSON WARREN \n1 vol. 12 mo. Two illustrations. $1 25. \n\nThis book is not only exceedingly entertaining, but is especially valuable for the re- \ncent and reliable information -which it gives concerning countries which, from their \ncomniercial and geographical relations to us, are at this time objects of special interest. \n\nExtract from a recent letter from the late "Wm. H. Prescott, Esq. : \xe2\x80\x94 " I can express \nheartily the pleasure that I have received from its charming and spirited pages. The \nstyle is free and natural, and the descriptions of scenery glow with the bright coloring \nof the tropics. I particularly admire the imperturbable good nature which carries you \ntl.rough all your difficulties and perils." \n\n" Here comes a live Yankee. He has been cruising by land and water, on mules, on \nfoot, io steamships, in canvas-carrying tubs; sivipper one day, before the mast the \nnext; supercargo, sailing-master, night watchman, captain ; among Kanakas; among \ncooh\'es; book-keeping in Mexico; speculating in California; hard up in Australia; and \ncomes home at last to tell his story, and the story is well told." \xe2\x80\x94 Neio York Titnes. \n\nThe London Literary Gazette, of January 29, says:\xe2\x80\x94" In all this whirl he finds time \nand space to pen a vast quantity of lively and entertaining description, pleasant readable \n""matter, upon men and things in many countries, and excellent succinct information \nupon the history, political position, and social condition of the countries across which \nhe carries us." \n\n" His descriptions, though brief, are so highly graphic that the reader sees every thing \nas if he were along with the writer, and dislikes to close the book, for he is so much \ncharmed with the author that he wanis \'to see him oft.\' " \xe2\x80\x94 Baltimore American. \n\n" This is a sprightly, laughter-moving record often years\' wandering about the globe \nof an uneasy, adventurous, cosmopolitan genius, who tells his story in an ofi\'-hand, \njovial way." \xe2\x80\x94 New York Chronicle. \n\n" He describes speculations, voyages, balls, fights, shipwrecks, mutinies, fun and \nfrolic, and all with natural vivacity and great freedom." \xe2\x80\x94 Albany Argus. \n\n"Judging from the truthful description he has given of Mexico and the Pacific coast, \nhis book is a valuable record of facts. The accounts of Sonora and its resources, with \nthe description of its chief cities, Guaymas, &c., are the most correct we have seen in \n\xe2\x96\xa0prxnty \xe2\x80\x94Providence Journal. \n\n" He travelled from the love of it, and gives us his impressions free from tedious re- \nflections or useless gi-umbling." \xe2\x80\x94 Boston Journal. \n\n"A lively, humorous, amusing, dashing, saucy sketch of a tour, embracing the coast \nof the Pacific from Patagonia to Panama," &,c.\xe2\x80\x94Bo.iton Evening Express. \n\n"It certainly required considerable self-denial to lay down this volume unfinished, \nfor it is long since we have read such a live book of travels."\xe2\x80\x94 i^TewarA; Daily Adver- \ntiser. \n\n\n\nBOOKS PUBLISHED BY CHAS. SCRIBNER. \n\n\n\nJUST READY\xe2\x80\x94 THE FOURTH EDITI02^ OF \n\nPEASANT LIFE IN GERMANY. \n\nBY AN-2^A C. JOirXSON. \n1 Yol. 12mo. $1 25. \n\nThe London Critic saj\'s :\xe2\x80\x94 " It is a really valuable as well as very entertaining book \nof travels." \n\nThe London Literary Gazette says ; \xe2\x80\x94 " It is a clever book. We give the authoress \nthe highest credit for having written an excellent and sterling work." \n\nThe London Atlienceum says : \xe2\x80\x94 " \' Peasant Life\' is written not without shrewdness \nof observation and descriptive power." \n\n" It has been reserved for an American lady to give the most complete and faithful \ndescription of that which forms the substratum of Germany. * * She made herself \nat home with the people NVhose ways she has described."\' \xe2\x80\x94 Rew York Courier and \nEnquirer. \n\n" Much that is here said is nowhere else said, as the author has gone into the homes \nof the people, and tells what her own eyes have seen and ears have heard." \xe2\x80\x94 jVeio York \nO^j server. \n\n" Here are descriptions of the guilds and trades, the farmer\'s and farming, houseki^ep- \ning and domestics, the vineyards and wine-drinking, churches, funerals, balls, marriases, \nbetrothals, costumes, games and festivals, and, in short, the whole panorama of German \nevery-day life, and no one can read the volume without admiration of the author\'s per- \nseverance, industrious inquiry, and attentive observation." \xe2\x80\x94 New York Commercial. \n\n"It gives us a vast mass of information which is rarely afforded by travellers who \nlook merely upon the surface ; and it is presented in an unassuming style, and with a \nvividness and minuteness of detail which bespeaks close and careful observation.\'\' \xe2\x80\x94 \n^eno York Evangelist. \n\n\n\nA VERY SUPERB WORK! \n\n\n\nWILD FLOWERS! \n\nDRAWj^ AIS^D COLORED FROM NATURE. \n\nBY MRS. BADGER ; \n\nWITH AN INTRODUCTIOX BY MRS. L. H. SIGOURNET. \n\n1 vol., large folio, with 22 page Colored Illustrations. In Turkey mo- \nrocco, $15; antique morocco, $12 50. \n\nThis sumptuous volume \xe2\x80\x94 the most superb of the kind ever issued \xe2\x80\x94 presents other \nclaims to attention, in addition to its masnificent exterior, the resplendent coloring of \nits numerous plates, the richness of its mechanical execution, and the gems of poetry \nthat accompany its illustrations. It contains the finest specimens of the Field and \nForest Flowers of America, preserved in all their exquisite perfection-^not a tint faded, \nnot an atom of brilliant down brushed from their petals. \n\n\n\nJUL ... ii4b \n\n\n\n\xe2\x80\xa2\'\xe2\x96\xa0\'> !\'^i \'\xe2\x80\xa2>\xe2\x80\xa2/, ^d \n\n\n\nLIBRARY \n\n\n\nCONGRESS \n\n\n\n020 230 725 5 \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\'V,\' I \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0\'\'\xe2\x96\xa0[\'f-Ai \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\'^\'y^&^ \n\n\n\nmm. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n'