. <5,- ^^'..^V. ^^ %>^^ -^^ •^AO^ %- ^ ^^o^ y y I, -r I:. "^^ \.^^' :'^-^-\^<^ , -e \,*^ : ^^^.<^ ^S v>i. T^i-O^ ^ ^^0^ G-, 0^ o_ ^'^^^^l^^.f^ ^^'>>'^^^- ^^0^ 0" s ^°-'.:>^''% ^^'^^S' c,°^\l;^o% ,^°, •^ .<)S TRTTS.^liTiU ^/,Y// //U/./ jtaAe '// /:> f/i'CtU'i'tK .^Z'ifili/^^ d/,,r/- HOW TO COOK, CARVE AND EAT; venient, be suffered to retire to rest at an early hour, by which means they will not be late on the following morning. This method will also render less servants necessary. I am sen- sible that many of my fair readers may imagine this to be of little coasequence, but Icana.ourc them that they will ultimatelv find, 1V# 1 u 10 DIRECTIONS FOR, &c. that regular and early hours in a family is of serious importanco to every branch of it, as far as relates to comfort, and it should be remembered that servants have feelings equally with ourselves. It is prudent and economical to have a sufficient quantity of hoise- h<»ld articles and culinary utensils. The stock should invariably be w(!ll kept up, and to do this effectually, requires some consideration. Tlie best, and indeed only regular method of doing this, is to keep a ••oriect account of these, as well as different articles of household fii-jMture, linen, plate, china, &c. &c. and the various articles should b. occasionally examined, and every article replaced as soon as broken. Much time will also be saved, if every article is kept in its proper place, clean ; and remember every thing should be mended the Ml )ment it is injured, and new applied to any oilier use than that for ■d'hich il zoas originalhj designed, by which mode of management any thing will last much longer than it otherwise would do. What an active person may perform in the course of one year by a punctual attendance to regular hours, and a persevering industry, would, if calculated, astonish a common observer by its extent and utility. In respect to servants, a mistress should be extremely care- ful whom she hires, and be particular in procuring a good charscter from the persons with whom they have previously resided. It is also the solemn duty of a mistress, to be just in giving a character to such servants as leave her, because a servant's whole dependance rests entirely on the possession of a good character ; destitute of which, inevitable ruin must follow. This is a duty, the breach of which nothing can extenuate ; for by giving an undeserved bad .:haracter to a good servant, through caprice, eternal infamy must be reflected on the person who does so. Faithful, honest servants should be treated with respect and kindness, and when an occasion offers, they should be duly rewarded, which will create emulation in others ; but never more kept than sufficient. Should you deal on credit, a book should be kept, in wlxich every Kiticle, with its weight and price, should be inserted the instant it is received, which will prevent imposition, and also serve as a reference. In a %vell rsgulated family, every article should be kept in con- btant readiness, such as broken sugar, pounded spices, &c. by which rnucli trouble will be prevented when such articles are wanted for immediate use. Serva4:ts should also be required to pay the same attention in waiting on the family, when alone, as they do when there IS company : this will soon become a regular habit, and visiters will (x.casion but little additional trouble, while every thing will appear to go on smoothly. HOW TO COOK. CHAPTER I. SOUPS and BROTHS. As a proper mode is the first and most judicious step that can be taken in the display of any subject, so we shall commence our work with a particular de- scription of the manner of making aU Idnds of Soups and Broths, those articles in the ^drt of Cookery being, at most entertainments, whether of a pubhc or private nature, first brought upon the table. To acquire reputation, and give satisfaction to those for wliom any kind of provision is dressed, the first grand consideration of the cook should be a particu- lar attachment to cleanliness, and this more immedi- ately in the proper care of all vessels wherein such provision is to be dressed. They must be kept pro- perly tinned, and, as soon as possible after being used, weU cleaned, and placed, with then* covers on, in some situation adapted for the purpose. Previous lo their being again used, examine them very strictly, and be careful that they are totally free from any kind of grease, or any particles of sand, wMch will be too apt to secrete themselves in unobserved cavities of the vessels. To avoid this, rub the palm of your hand all round, with the ends of your fingers in the cavities, and if any sand is left, it will stick to the flesh, which will naturally draw it out. After tliis, wipe it all roiuid with a clean cloth, and you may be pretty well satisfied it is thoro iglily cleansed for use. The pains 12 SOUPS. you have taken in this first degree of care will be am- ply repaid by the articles you cook being, if properly managed according to the rules here laid down, brought to table in the highest state of perfection. As a necessary prelude to the making of soups and l)rolhs, we shall introduce a few general observations ; which we recommend as deserving the particular notice and attention of the cook. AViien yo^i make any kinds of sou])s, more especi- ally portable, vermicelli, or brown gravy soup, or, indeed, any other that hath roots or herbs in it, always observe to lay the meat at the bottom of yom* pan, with a good lump of butter. Cut the herbs and roots small, lay them over the meat, cover it close, and set it over a slow fire : this will draw all the virtue out of the roots or herbs, turn it to a good gravy, and give the soup a different flavour from wiiat it would have on putting the water in at first. As soon as you find the gravy is nearly dried up, then fill the saucepan with water, and when it begins to boil skim off the fat, and pursue the directions given for the soup intended to be made. In making peas soup observe, that if they are old, yon must use soft water; but if green, hard or spring water, as it will greatly contribute to the preservation of their colour. One principal thing to be observed in making all kinds of soup is, that no one ingredient is more powerful in the taste than an- other, but that all are as nearly as possible equal, and that the soup be relished in proportion to the purpose for which it is designed. Vermicelli Soup. Take a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton, from each of which cut the flesh into small pieces about the size of walnuts, and mix them together, with five or six thin .slices of lean ham. Put into the bottom ot your pan about four ounces of butter, and then your meat; to which add three or four blades of mace, two or tliree carrots, two parsnips, two lai'ge onions, with a clove stuck on both side^ of pach, cut in four or five SOUPS. 13 heads of celery washed clean, a bunch of SAveet herbs, eight or len morels, and an anchovy. When yout articles are thus prepared and mixed together in the pan, cover it very close, and set it over a slow fire, without any water, till the gravy is drawn out of the meat. When this is done, pour it out into a pot or large basin: then let the meat brown, (taking care that it does not burn,) and put into the saucepan four quarts of water. Let the whole boil gently till it is wasted to three pints, then strain it, and mix with it tlie hrsi gravy drawn from the meat. Set it on the fire, and add two ounces of vermicelli, a nice head of celery cul small, chyan pepper and salt to your taste, and let the whole boil about six minutes. Lay a small French roll in the soup dish, pour the soup upon it, strcAv some of the vermicelli on the surface, and then serve it to table. Vf.rmicelli Soup White. Wash yoiu* vermicelli in boiling water, and leave it to drain on a sieve that it may not lump : boil it with isome good gravy soup; and the moment before serving it up, put in a cullis a-la-reiiie, or the yolks of some eggs beat up with cream or milk. It must not boil after the eggs are in, or else it will cm'dle. Soup a-la-Reine. Take a knuckle of veal, and three or four pounds of lean beef, to which put in six quarts of water, with a little salt. When it boils take off the scum quite clean, then put in six large onions, two carrots, a head or two of celery, a parsnip, one leek, and a little thyme. Let the whole stew together till the meat is quite boiled doA^m, then strain it through a hair sieve, and a^ter it has stood about half an hour, skim it well, and clear it off gently from the settlings into a clean pan. Boil half a pint of cream, and pour it on the criunb of a small loaf till the whole is soaked in. Take half a pound of almonds, blanch and beat them as fine as possible, putting in now and then a little cream to pre- vent them from oiling. Then take the yolks of six 1-1 SOUPS. Iiarcl eggs, o<*,at them with a loaf soaked in the cream, and mix the whole together. Put your brcth in again into the saucepan, and when hot pom' it to your al- monds. Strain it througli a fine hah sieve, rubbing it with a spoon till all the virtue and flavour are extracted. Put the Avhole into the saucepan, adding a little more cream to make it wh'te. Set it over the fire, keep stirring it till it boils, and skim ofT the froth as it rises. In the meantime soak the tops of two Fjench rolls in melted butter in a stew-pan till they are crisp, but not brown ; then take them out of the butter, and lay them in a plate before the fire. After remaining there a short time put them at the bottom of the tureen, pouring to them a small quantity of the soup. When yoin* soup has been thoroughly skimmed from froth, 2nd is just ready to boil, then take it off, pom it into the tureen, and serve it hot to table. In making this soup, par- ticular care must be taken that no fat be on the surface of the broth at the time it is poured upon the almonds, otherwise the whole will be spoiled. Sou]) Cressy. Cut a pound of lean ham into small bits, and put at the bottom of a stew-pan, with a French roll cut in slices, and laid on the top. Take two dozen heads of celery cut small, six onions, two turnips, one carrot, SLX cloves, fom* blades of mace, and two bunches of water cresses. Put them all in a stew-pan, with a pint of good broth. Cover them close, and let them sweat gently for about twenty minutes, afler A^iiich fill it up Avith veal broth, and stew it four hours. When this is done, strain it through a fine sieve or cloth, and put it again into the saucepan, seasoning it with salt and a little chyan pepper. As soon as it is simmered np, pour it into the tureen, putting in some French roll toasted hard. Transparent Soup. Cut off the meat from a leg of veal as clean a? you can, after which break the bone in small pieces. Put the meat iuti a largo ]ug, with tise bones at top, and SOUPS. 15 add to it a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half a pound of blanched almonds, and pour in four quarts of boiling water. Set it over a slow fire, (dose covered, and let it stand all night. The next day take it out of the jug, put it into a clean saucepan, and let it boil slowly till it is reduced to two quarts. Daring tlie time it boils be particularly careful to talve off all the scum and fat. Strain it into a large bowl, and when yoti think the meat is perfectly settled at the bottom, so that no sediment can intermix: with the soup, put it into a clean saucepan, and intermix it with three or four ounces of boiled rice, or two ounces of vermicelli, which you like best. Wiien it has boiled about a quarter of an hour, poui* it into the tureen, and serve it to table. Almond Soup. Take a quart of almonds, and beat them in a marble mortar, with the yolks of six hard eggs, till they be- come a fine paste. Mix them by degrees with two quarts of new millc, a quart of cream, and a quarter of a pound of double refined sugar, beat fine, and stir the whole well together. When it is properly mixed, set it over a slow fire, and keep it stirring quick till you find it of a good thickness : then take it off, pour it into yom* dish, and serve it up. The principal care to be observed in making this soup is to prevent its curdling, which can only be done by keeping it constantly stir- ring till it boils. Soup Santc, or Gravy Soup. Take a pound and a half of lean ham cut, in slices, and put them in the bottom of the stew-pan, with about two ounces of butter under them. Over the ham, put three ounces of lean beef, and over the beef the same quantity of veal. Put in six onions cut in slices, two carrots, and two turnips sliced, two heads of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, six cloves, and two blades of mace. Let there be a little water at the bottom, and when you have gently drawn it till it sticks, put in a gallon of boiling water. Let it stei*^ 2 16 30UP8. Cfently for two hours ; season witli salt and chyan pep- per, and strain it clear olF. Having ready a carrot cut in thin pieces about two inches in length, a turnip, tuo lieads of leeks, two of celery, two of endive cut across, two cabbage lettuces cut in the same manner, with a little sorrel and chervil. Put these into a stew-pan, and sweat them over the fire for about fifteen minutes ; then put them into your soup. Set the whole over the fire, and let it boil gently about a t[uarter of an hour ; then pour it into your tureen, with the crust of a French roll on the top, and send it to table. Soiq? and Bouille. Take about five pounds of brisket of beef, roll it up as tight as you can, and fasten it Avith a piece of tape. Put it into the stew-pan, with four pounds of the leg of mutton piece of beef, and about two gallons of water. When it boils, take off the scum quite clean, and put in one large onion, two or tlu'ee carrots, two turnips, a leek, two heads of celery, six or seven cloves, and some whole pepper. Stew the whole very gently, close covered, for six or seven hours. About an hoiu* be- fore dinner strain the soup quite clear from the meat. Have ready boiled carrots cut into small pieces with a carrot cutter, turnips cut in balls, spinach, a little chervil and sorrel, two heads of endive, and one or two of celery cut into pieces. Put these into a tureen, with a French roll dried after the crumb is taken out. Pom- the soup to these boiling hot, and add a little salt and chyan pepper. Take the tape from the beef, or bouille, and place it in a dish by itself, with mashed turnips and sliced carrots, each in a separate small dish, and in this manner serve up the wiiole. Ox Cheek Soujy. Break the bones of the cheek, and after havniij washed it thoroughly clean, put it into a large stew- pan, w^ith about two ounces of biitter at the bottom, and lay the fleshy side of the cheek do^Miwards. Add to it about half a pound of lean ham, cut in slices ■ oups. 17 Pat in four heads of celery cut small, three large onions, two carrots, one parsnip sliced, and three blades of mace. Set it over a moderate fire for about a quarter of an hom', when the virtues of the roots will be extracted; after which put to it four quarts of water, and let it simmer gently till it is reduced to two. If you mean to use it as soup only, strain it clear off, and put in the white part of a head of celery cut in small pieces, ■\\ith a little browning to make it a fine coloiu*. Scald two ounces of vermicelli, and put into the soup, then let it boil for about ten minutes, and pour it into your tureen, with the crust of a French roll, and serve it up. If it is to be used as a stew, take up the cheek as whole as possible, and have ready a boiled turnip and carrot cut in square pieces, a slice of bread toasted, and cut in small dices, put in a little chyan pepper, strain the soup through a hair sieve upon the whole, and carry it to table. Macaroni Soup. Mix together tluree quarts of strong broth with one of gra\y. Take half a pound of small pipe macaroni, and boil it in three quarts of water, with a little butter in it, till it is tender, after w^hich strain it through a sieve. Cut it in pieces of about two inches in length, and put it into yom* soup, and boil it up for about ten minutes. Send it to table in a tureen, Avith the crust of a French roll toasted. Calf^s Head Soup. Wash the head as clean as possible, which you will the more easily do by strewing a little salt on it to take out the shme. After it is thoroughly cleansed, put it into your stew-pan, with a proper quantity of water, and throw in a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, five or six blades of mace, and some pearl barley. When it has stewed till it is tender, put in some stewed celery. Season it with pepper, pour the soup into your dish, place the head in the middle, and serve it to table. No. 1. c 18 SOUPS. Peas Soup in the Common Way. Put a quart of split peas into four quarts of water, with some beef lK)nes, or a little lean bacon. Add one bead of celery cut small, with three or four turnips. Let it boil gently till it is reduced to two quarts, and then work it through a fine sieve with a wooden s}X)on. Mix a little Hour and water well together, and boil them in the soup. Add another head of celery, with chyan pepper and salt to yom* taste. Cut a slice of bread in dice, fry them a light brown, and put them into yoiir dish ; after which pour in the soup, and serve it up. JVJiite Peas Soup. Take four or five pounds of lean beef, and put it into six quarts of water with a little salt. When it l)oils skim it clean, and put in two carrots, three whole onions, a little thyme, and tv.o heads of celery. When you have done this, put in three quarts of peas, and boil them with the meat till the latter is quite tender : then strain the soup through a hair sieve, at the same time rubbing the pulp of tiie peas so as to extract all their virtue. Split three ooss lettuces into four quarters each, and cut them about four inches in length, with a little mint shredded small : then put half a pound of butter in a stew-pan that will hold yom* soup, and put the lettuce and mint into the butter, with a leek sliced very thin. Stew them a quarter of an hour, shaking them about often ; and after adding a little of the soup, stew them a quarter of an hour longer : then put in 3'^our soup, and as much thick cream as w U make it white : keep stirring it till it boils, fry a French roll in butter a little crisp, put it in the bottom of the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve it up. Green Peas Soup. Cut a knuckle of veal into thin slices, with one pound of lean ham. Lay them at the bottom of a soup-pot with the veal uppermost. Then put in six onions cut in slices, with two or three turnips, two carrots, three heads of celery cut very sin;ill, a little SOUPS. IM thyme, four cloves, and four blades of mace. Put a little vrater at the bottom, cover the pot close, and draw it gently, taking particular care the meat does not stick to the pot. When it is properly drawn, put in six quarts of boiling water, and let it stew gently four hours, skimming it well during the time. Take two quarts of peas, and stew them in some of the liquor till tender ; then strain them off and beat them fine, put the liquor in, and mix them up. Take a tammy, or fine cloth, and rub them tlirough till you have rubbed all the pulp out, and then 'put your soup in a clean pot, with half a pint of spinach juice, and boil it up for about a quarter of an hour : season with salt and a Httle pepper. If you tliink your soup not thick enough, take the crumb of a French roll, and boil it in a little of the soup, beat it in a mortar, and rub it through your tammy, or cloth, then put it into yoiu' soup, and boil it up. Pour the soup into the tmeen, with half a pint of young peas and mint, stewed •n fresh butter; then serve it up. Onion Soup. Take eight or ten large Spanish onions, and boil them in milk and water till they become quite soft, changing your milk and water tlu'ee times while the onions are boiling. When they are quite soft rub them tlirough a hair sieve. Cut an old fowl into pieces, and boil it for gravy, with one blade of mace. Then strain it, and having poured the gravy on the pidp of the onions, boil it gently, with the crumb of a stale penny loaf gi'ated into half a pint of cream, and season it to your taste with salt and chyan pepper. When you serve it up, grate a crust of brown bread round the edge of the dish. It will contribute much to the deh- cacy of the flavour, if you add a little stewed spinach, or a few heads of asparagus. Milk Soup. Boil a pint of milk with a little salt, and if you please sugar; arrange some sliced bread in a dish, pour ^ SOUPS. over part ofyoiir milk to soak it, and keep it hot npiin your stove, taking care that it docs not burn. When you are ready to serve your soup, beat up the yolks of five or six eggs, and add them to the rest of the milk. Stir it over the fire till it chickens, and then take it off for fear it should curdle. Milk Soup. Another Way. Take two quarts of new milk, and put into it two sticks of cinnamon, two bay leaves, a small quantity of basket salt, and a little sugar. While these are heating, blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and beat them up to a paste in a marble mortar. Mix some milk with them by a little at a time, and while they are heating, grate some lemon-peel with the almonds, and a little of the juice ; after which strain it tlu'ough a coarse sieve ; mix all together, and let it boil up. Cut some slices of French bread, and dry them before the fire ; soak them a little in the milk, lay them at the bottom of the tureen, pour in the soup, and serve it up. Milk Soup, icith Onions. Take a dozen of onions, and set tliem over a stove till they are done without being coloured. Then boil some milk, add to it the onions, and season it with salt alone. Put some button onions to scald, then pass them in butter, and when tender add it to the soup, and serve it up. Rice Soup. Put a pound of rice and a little cinnamon into two quarts of water. Cover it close, and let it sinmicr very gently till the rice is quite tender. Take out the cinnamon, then sweeten it to yom' palate ; grate into it half a nutmeg, and let it stand till it is cold. Then beat up the yolks of three eggs, with half a pint of white wine ; mix them well together, and stir them into the rice. Set the whole over a slow fire, and keep stirring it all the time, lest' it should curdle. When it is of a good thickness, and boils, take it up, and keep stirring it till you pour it into your dish. SOUPS. 21 Rice Soup, or Potage duRis. Take i handful of rice, or more, according to the quantity of soup you make; wash it well in warm wa- ter, rubbing it in yom* hands, and let it stand two honrs and a half or tln-ee hom-s over a slow fire, with good beef and veal gravy : when it is done, season it to yonr palate, and serve it np. Scotch Barley Broth. Take a ]eg of beef cut into pieces, and boil it in three gallons of water, with a sliced carrot and a crust of bread. Let it continue boiling till reduced to one half. Then strain it off, and put it again into the pot, with half a pound of barley, four or five heads of celery cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large onion, a little parsley chopped small, and a few marigolds. When this has been boiled an hour, put in a large fowl, and let it continue boiling till the broth is quite good. Sea- son it with salt to yoiu* taste, take out the onion and sweet herbs, and send it to table with the fowl in the middle. The fowl may be used or omitted, according to yom' own discretion, as the broth will be exceeding good without it. Instead of a leg of beef, some make this broth with a sheep's head, ^vhich must be chopped all to pieces. Others use thick flank of beef, in wiiich case six pounds nnist be boiled in six quarts of water. Put in the barley with the meat, and boil it very gently for an hour, keeping it clear from scum. Then put in the before-mentioned ingredients, with turnips and carrots clean scraped and pared, and cut into small pieces. Boil all together softly till you find the broth very good, and season it to your palate. Then take it up, pour the broth into yoin* dish or tureen, put the beef in the middle, Avith carrots and turnips round the disli, and send it hot to table. This is a very comfortable repast, more particularly in cold and severe Aveather. Soup Lorraine. Take a poimd of almonds, blanch them, and beat Chem in a fine mortar, with a Aery little Avater to keep 22 SOUPS. them from oiling. Then take all the white part of a large roasted fcwl, uith the yolks of four poached eggs, and pound all togelhcr as hne as possible. Take three quarts of strong veal broth, let it be very white, and all the fat clean skimmed off. Pour it into a stew-pan with the other ingredients, and mix them well together. Boil them gently over a slow fire, and mince the w hite part of another fowl very fine. Season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little beaten mace. Put in a bit of butter about the size of an egg, with a spoonful or t'»vo of the soup strained, and set it over the fire to be quite hot. Cut t\^o French rolls into thin slices, and set them before the fire to crisp. Then take one of the liollow loaves which are made for oysters, and fill it with the minced fowl : close the roll as neat as possible, and keep it hot. Strain the soup through a very fine sieve into a clean saucepan, and let it stew till it is of the thickness of cream. Put the crisped bread into the dish or tm'een, pom* the Foup over it, place the roll with the minced meat in the middle, and serve it up. Soup Maigre. Put half a pound of butter into a deep stew-pan, shake it about, and let it stand till it has done making a noise ; then tlu'ow in six middle-sized onions, peeled and cut small, and shake them about. Take a bunch of celery, clean W' ashed and picked, cut it into pieces about half an inch in length; a large handful of spinach clean washed and picked, a good lettuce (if it can be got) cut small, and a bundle of parsley chopped fine. Shake all these w^ell together in the pan for a quarter of an hour, and then strew in a little flour : stir all together in the stew-pan, and put in two quarts of wa^er. Throw in a handful of hard dry crust, w^th alx)ut a quarter of an ounce of ground pepper, and three blades of mace beat fine. Stir all together, and let it boil gently for about half an horn* : then take it off, beat up tlic yolks of two eggs, and stir them in with one spoon- ful of vinegar. Pour the whole into a soiip dish, and Bend it to table. If th^ season of the year will admit. sours. 23 a pint of green peas boiled in the soup will be a mate- rial addition. Giblet Soiqy. Take four pounds of gravy-beef, two pounds of a scrag of mutton, and two pounds of a scrag of veal. Put these into a saucepan w4th two gallons of water, and let them stew very gently till the broth begins to have a good taste. Then pour it out, let it stand till it is cold, and skim off all the fat. Take two pah* of giblets well scalded and cleaned, put them into the broth, and let them simmer till they are very tender. Take out the giblets, and strain the soup through a cloth. Put a piece of butter rolled in flour into yom* stew-pan, and make it of a hght brown. Have ready, chopped small, some parsley, chives, a little penny-royal, and a small quantity of sweet marjo/cmi. Place the soup over a very slow fire ; put in the giblets, fried butter, herbs, a little Madeu'a wine, some salt, and chyan pepper. Let them simmer till the herbs are tender, and then send the soup to table with the giblets intermixed. Hodge Podge. Take a pound of beef, a pound of veal, and a pound of scrag of mutton. Cut the beef into small pieces, and put the whole into a saucepan, with two quarts of water. Take an ounce of barley, an onion, a small bundle of sweet herbs, tliree or fom* heads of celery w"ashed clean and cut small, a little mace, two or tlii-ee cloves, and some whole pepper, tied all in a piece of cloth ; and tlu'ow into the pot with the meat tlu-ee turnips pared and cut in two, a large carrot scraped clean and cut in six pieces, and a small lettuce. Cover the pot close, and let it stew very gently for five or six hom's ; then take out the spice, sweet herbs, and- onion, poin- all into a soup dish, season it with salt, and send it to table. Coiv Heel Soup. Take four pounds of lean mutton, tlu-ee of beef, and t^^vo of veal ; cut them across, and p^itthem into a 24 80UPS. pot with an old fowl, and lour or fjve slices of lean )iam. Let these stew without any liquor over a very slow fire, but be careful they do not burn to the pot. As soon as you fnid the meat begins to stick to the bottom, stir it about, and put in some good beef broth clear of all the fat: then put in some turnips, carrots, and celery cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a bay leaf; then add some more clear broth, and let it stew about an hour. While this is doing, talve a cow heel, split it, and set it onto boil in some of the same broth. When it is very tender take it off, and set on a stew-pan with some crusts of bread, and some more broth, and let it soak eight or ten minutes. W^hen the soup is stewed till it tastes rich, lay the crusts in a tureen, and the two halves of the cow heel upon them. Then pom- in the soup, season it to yoiu- palate, and serve it to table. White Soujy. Take a knuckle of veal, a large fowl, and a pound of lean bacon: put these into a saucepan wath six quarts of water: add half a pound of rice, two anchovies, a few peppercorns, a bundle of sweet herbs, two or three onions, and three or fom' heads of celery cut in shces. Stew them all together, till the soup is as strong as you would have it, and then strain it tlu'ough a hair ftieve into a clean earthen pan. Let it stand all night, and the next day take off the scum very clean, and pour the liquor into a stew-pan. Put in half a pound of sw^eet almonds beat fine, boil it for about a quarter of an hour, and strain it through a lawn sieve. Then put in a pint of cream, with the yolk of an egg, stir all together, let it boil a few minutes, then pom* it into yom' tureen, and serve it up. Gravy Soiij?. Take a shin of beef, with the bone well chopped, and put it into your saucepan w4th six quarts of w ater, a pint of peas, and six onions. Set it over the fire, and let it boil gently till the juices of the meat are drawn out : tlien strain i]\e liquor through a sieve, and SOUPS. 25 add to it a quart of strong beef broth. Season it to yoia- taste with pepper and salt, and put in a little celery and beet leaves ; and when it has boiled till the vegetables are tender, pom* it into a tureen, and take it to table. Spring Scujj. Take a pint of young peas, some chervil, sorrel, young green onions, spring carrots, and turnips, and stew them in some butter till tender ; when done, add what quantity of good brown gravy you wish ; season it with pepper, mace, and salt. Let the turnips and carrots be sliced, and be sure take off all the fat that rises upon the soup. Hare Soup. Cut a large hare into pieces, and put it into an earthen mug, with three blades of mace, two large onions, a httle salt, a red-herring, half a dozen large morels, a pint of red wine, and three quarts of water. Bake it three hours in a quick oven, and then strain the liquor into a stew-pan. Have ready boiled four ounces of French barley, and put in ; just scald the liver, and rub it tlu'ough a sieve with a wooden spoon ; put it into the soup, set it over the fire, but do not let it boil. Keep it stu'ring till it is on the brink of boil- ing, and then take it off. Put some crisped bread into your tureen, and pour the soup into it. This is a most delicious rich soup, and calculated for large enter- tainments. If any other kind of soup is provided, this should be placed at the bottom of the table. Partridge Soup. Take two large old partridges, skin them, and cut tliem into pieces, with three or fom* slices of ham, a little celery, and tlu'ee large onions cut in slices. Fry them in butter till they are brown, but be sure you do not let them burn. Then put them into a stew-pan, with three quarts of boiling water, a few peppercorns, and a little salt. After it has stewed gently for two hours, strain it throngli a sieve, put it again into your No. 2. ]) 26 ROUPS. stew-pan with sijme stewed celery aiifl fr.ed fjread. When it isnearb(»ilii»g, pour it into your tureen, and serve it up hot. Cray Fish Soup. Boil an Imndred fresh cray fish, as also a fine lob- ster, and pick the meat clean out of each. Pound the shells of both in a mortar till they are very fine, and boil them in four quarts of "water "with four pounds of mutton, a pint of green split peas nicely picked and ^^'ashed, a large turnip, a carrot, an onion, mace, cloves, an anchovy, a little thyme, pepper, and salt. Stew them on a slow fire till all the goodness is out of the mutton and shells ; then strain it through a sieve, and put in the meat of your cray fish and lobster, but let them be cut into very small pieces, with the red coral of the lobster, if it has any. Boil it half an honr, and just before yon serve it up, add a little butter melted thick and smooth : stn it round a\ hen yon put it in, and let it simmer very gently about ten minutes. Fry a French roll nice and brown, lay it in the middle of the d :sh, poiu: the soup on it, and serve it up hot. Fcl Soup. Take a pound of eels, which will make a pint oi good soup, or any greater weight, in proportion to the (piantity of soup you intend to make. To every pound of eels put a quart of water, a crust of bread, two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover them close, and let them boil till half the liquor is wasted : then strain it, and toast some bread ; cut it small, lay the bread in your dish, and pour in the soup. This soup is very bal- samic, and particularly nutritious to weak constitutions. Oyster Soup. Take a pound of skate, fom' or jfive flounders, and two eels ; cut them into pieces, just cover them with water, and season Avith mace, an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery, two parsley roots sliced, some SOUPS. £1 pepper and salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Covci thein down close, and after they have simmered about an hour and a half, strain the liquor clear oif, and pul it into a clean saucepan. In the mean time take a qiiart of oysters, bearded, and beat them in a mortar w ith the yolks of six eggs boiled hard. Season it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg ; and when the liquor boils put all into it. Let the whole boil till it becomes of the thickness of cream, then take it off, pour it into your tureen, and serve it to table. Mutton Broth. Take a neck of mutton about six pounds, cut it in two, boil the scrag part in a gallon of water, skim it \vell, and then put in a small bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, and a good crust of bread. When the scrag lias boiled about an hour, put in the other part of the mutton, and about a quarter of an hour before the meat is done, put in a turnip or two, some dried marigolds, a few chives, with par.sley chopped small, and season it with salt. You may at first put in a quarter of a pound of barley or rice, which both thickens and con- tributes a grateful flavour. Some like it thickened with oatmeal, and some with bread ; and, instead oi sweet herbs and onions, season it with mace : but this is a mere fancy, and determined by the different palates of different people. If you boil turnips as sauce to the meat, let it be done by themselves, otherwise the fla- vour, by being too powerful, will injure the broth. Beef Broth. Take a leg of beef with the bone well cracked, tvash it thoroughly cleaa, and put it into yom' pot with a gallon of water. Scum it well, and put in two or rhree blades of mace, a small bunch of parsley, and a large crust of bread. Let it boil till the beef and sinews are quite tender. Cut some toasted bread and put into your tureen, then lay in the meat, and \)our the soup all over 3 28 SOUPS. Beef Drink. Take a pound and a lialf of loan beef, cut it into small pieces, and put it into a gallon of water, with the under crust of a penny loaf, and a little salt. Let it boil till it is reduced to two quarts, then strain it off, and it will be very good drink. — Observe, when you first put the meat into the water, that it is clear of all skin and fat. . Sti'ong Beef Broth to Izeep. Take part of a leg of beef, and the scrag end of a neck of mutton. Break the bones well of each, and put to it as much water as will cover it, Avith a httle salt. When it boils skim it clean, and jnit to it a large onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, some pep- per, and a nutmeg quartered. Let these boil till, the virtues of the mace are drawn out, then strain the soup through a fine sieve, and keep it for use. Veal Broth. Stew a knuckle of veal in about a gallon of water, put in tw^o ounces of rice or vermicelli, a little salt, and a blade of mace. When the meat is thoroughly boiled, and the liquor reduced to about one half, it will be very good and lit for use. Chicken Broth. Skin a large old fowl, cut oil the fat, break the fov/1 to pieces, and put it into two quarts of water, with a good crust of bread, and a blade of nmce. Let it boil gently five or six hom's : then pom' off all the li- quor, put a quart more of boiling water to it, and cover it close ; let it boil softly till it is good, then strain i( off, and season it with a little salt. In the meantime boil a chicken, and save the liquor ; and w hen the flesh s eat, take the bones, break them, and put them in the liquor in which you boiled the chicken, with a blade of mace, and a crust of bread. When the juice of the bones is extracted, strain it off, mix it v>ith the other liouor, and send it to UMe.. SOUPS. 29 Spring Broth. Take a crust of bread, and about a quarter cf a pound of fresh butter; put them mto a soup-pot or stew-pan, with a good quantity of herbs, as bear, sor- rel, chervil, lettuce, leeks, and purslain, all washed clean, and coarsely chopped. Put to them a quart of water, and let them stew till it is reduced to one half, when it will be fit for use. This is an excellent pm'i- fier of the blood. Plum Porridge to keep. Take a leg and shin of beef, put them into eight gallons of water, and boil them till the meat is quite tender. When the broth is strong, strain it off, shake out the meat, and put the broth again into the pot. Slice sLx: penny loaves thin, cutting off the tops and bottoms, put some of the liquor to them, cover them over, and let them soak for a quarter of an hour : then boil and strain it, and put it into yoiu- pot. When the whole has boiled a short- time, put in five pounds of* stewed raisins of the sun, and two pounds of prunes. After it has boiled a quarter of an hour, put in five pounds of currants clean washed and picked. Let these boil till they swell, and then put in three quar- ters of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, and two nutmegs, all beat fine. Before you put these into the pot, mix them with a little cold liquor, and put them in but a short time before the whole is done. When you take off the pot, put in tln-ee pounds of sugar, a little salt, a quart of sack, a quart of claret, and the juice of two or three lemons. If you think proper, instead of bread, you may thicken it with sago. Pom- your porridge into earthen pans, and keep it lor use. Mock Turtle Soup. Scald a calf's head with the skin on, and take oil the horny part, which must be cut into pieces about two inches square. Let these be well washed and cleaned, then dry them in a cloth, and put them into a stew-pan, with four quiu'ts of water made as follows : 30 SOUPS Take six or seven pounds of beef, a calf 's foot, a sliank of liam, an onion, two carrots, a turnip, a iiead of ce- lery, some cloves and whole pej)per, a binich of sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, and a few truflles. Put those into eight quarts of water, and let it stew gently till the broth is reduced one half; then strain it oil", and put it into the stew-pan, with the horny parts of the calfs head. Add some knotted marjorum, a little savory, thyme, and parsley, all chopped small together, with some cloves and mace pounded, a little chyan pepper, some green onions, a shalot cut fine, a few chopped mushrooms, and half a pint of Madeira wine. Stew all these together gently till the soup is reduced to two quarts ; then heat a little broth, mix some flour smooth in it, with the yolks of two eggs, and keep it stirring over a gentle lire till it is near boiling. Add this to the soup, keeping it stirring as you pour it in, and let them all stew together for another hour. When you take it off the fire, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and half an orange, and thrown in some boiled force-meat balls. Pour the w hole into your tureen, and serve it up hot to table. This is a rich soup, and to most palates deliciously gi*atifying. Portable Soup. This soup (wliich is particularly calculated for the use and convenience of travellers, fi'om its not receiv- ing any injiu'y by time,) must be made in the following manner. Cut into small pieces three large legs of veal, one of beef, and the lean part of a ham. Put a quar- ter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large cal- dron, then lay in the meat and bones, with four ounces of anchovies, and two ounces of mace. Cut off the green leaves of five or six heads of celery, wash the heads quite clean, cut them small, put them in with three large carrots cut thin, cover the caldron quite close, and set it over a moderate fire. When you find the gravy begins to dra^v, keep taking it up till you have got it all out ; then put water in to cover the meat ; set it on the fire again, and let it boil gently for SOUPS. cJi • four hours ; then strain it thi'ough a hau* sieve into a clean pan, till it is reduced to one part out of three. Strain the gravy you draw from the meat into the pan, and let it boil gently till you find it of a glutinous con- sistence, observing to keep skimming off the fat clean as it rises. You must take particular care, when it is nearly enough, that it does not burn. Season it to your taste Avith cliyan pepper, and pour it on flat eartlien dishes a quarter of an inch thick. Let it stand till the next day, and then cut it out by round tins a little larger than a crown piece. Lay the cakes in dislies, and set them in the sun to dry, to facilitate which tiu-n them often. When the cakes are dry, put them into a tin box, with a piece of clean white paper between each, and keep them in a dry place. If made in frost v weatlier, it will be sooner formed in its proper solidity This soup is not only particularly useful to travellers, but it is also exceeding convenient to be kept in pri^ ate families ; for by putting one of the cakes into a sauce- pan, with about a pint of w^ater, and a little salt, a l).\sin of good broth may be had in a few minutes. T^lere is also another great convenience in it ; that ])y bo Jhig a small quantity of water with one of the cakes, it will make an excellent gravy for roast turkeys and 32 CHAPTER II. BOILIJVG IJV GEJVERAL. SECT. I. BUTCHER'S MEAT. A S a necessary prelude to the directions given under this head, we shall make a few necessary and general observations. All meat should be boiled as slow as possible, but in plenty of water, which will make it rise and look plump. Be careful to keep it clear from scum, and let your pot be close covered. If you boil it flist, the outside will be hardened before tlie inside is V arm, and the meat will be disagreeably discoloured. A leg ofveal of twelve pounds weight, will take three hours and a half boiling ; and the slower it boils the whiter and plumper it will be. With respect to mutton and beef, if they are rather under done, they may be ate without being either disagreeable or unwholesome; but lamb, pork, and veal, should be thoroughly done, otiierwise, they will be obnoxious to the sight, and consequently ungrate- ful to the palate. A leg of pork will take half an hour's more boiling than a leg of veal of the same weight; but in general, when you boil beef and mut- ton, you may allow as many quarters of an horn' as the meat weighs pounds. To put in the meat when the water is cold must be allowed to be the best method, as thereby the middle gets warm before the outside becomes hardened. Three quarters of an hour will boil a leg of lamb four pounds and a half weight. From these general directions, it would be imneces- sary to describe the usual mode of boiling the common joints of either mutton or l>eef We shall therefore proceed to those articles which require more particif tar notice. BOILING MEAT, t^'C. 33 To dress a Calf's Head, one half boiled, the other baked. After having well cleansccrthe head, parboil one half, beat up the yollv of an egg, and vnb it over the head with a feather ; then strew over it a seasoning of pepper, salt, tliynie, parsley chopped small, shred Jeuion-peel, grated bread, and a little nutmeg ; stick bits of bntter over it, and send it to the oven, Boi] the other half white in a cloth, and put them both into a dish. Boil the brains in a piece of clean cloth, with a very little parsley, and a leaf or two of sage. When they are boiled chop them small, and warm them up in a saucepan, with a bit of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Lay the tongue, boiled and peeled, in the middle of a small dish, and the brains round it ; have in another dish, bacon or pickled pork ; and in a third, greens and carrots. Grass Lamb. Whatever the number of pounds is that the joint weighs, so many quarters of an hom- must it boil. When done, serve it up with spinach, carrots, cab- bage, or brocoli. A Ham. Put yom- ham into a copper of cold water, and when it boils take care that it boils slowly. A ham of twen- ty pounds weight will take four hours and a half boil- ing ; and so in proportion for one of a larger or smaller size. An old and large ham will require sixteen hours soaking in a large tub of soft water ; but a green one does not requhe any soaking. Be sure, while your ham is boiling, to keep the water clear from scum. When you take it up, pull off the skin, and rub it all over with an egg, strew on crumbs of bread, baste it with a little butter, and set it to the fire till it is of a light brown. Another Way of boiling a Ham. With respect to its being an old ham, or a green one, observe the before-mentioned directions. Pare it round and underneath, taking care no rusty part is left. Put it into a pan or pot that will properly '^ontain it, iVn. 2. v: ;3L boiling cover it with ^vatcl^ and })ut in i few cloves, thyme, and laurel leaves. Let it hoil or a sIoav fire about five hours, and then add a glass of brandy, and a pint of red wine : finish boiJing in the same manner. It it is to be served up hot, take off the skin, and throw it over with crumbs of bread, a little parsley finely chopped, and a few bits of butter, and give it a good colour either i» the oven, or w ith a salamander. If it is to be kept cold, it will be better to let the skin remain, as it will be a means of preserving its juices. Ham a-la-Braise. Pare your ham round and underneath, taking caro no rusty part is left ; cover it w ell with meat under and over, with roots and spices, filling it up w ith water. The gravy that comes from the ham being excellent for all kinds of brow^n gauces. Tongues. If it be a dried tongue^ steep it all night in water; but if it be a pickled one, only wash it ^veil from tlie brine. Let it l3oil moderately three hours. If it is to be eat hot, stick it with cloves^ rub it over with the yolk of an egg, strew crumbles! bread over it, and, when done, baste it with butter, ajid set it before the fire till it becomes of a light brown. Dish it up with a little brown gravy, or red wine sauce^ and lay slices of currant jelly round the dish. JVeafs Tongue, with Parsley. Boil it a quarter of an hour, then take it cmt, antl lard it ; put it in again to boil with any meat you have going on ; when it is done, take the skin oil', cut aknost half througli the middle lengthwise, that it may open in two parts, without the pieces coming apart, anil serve it up with some gravy, pepper, and parsley shred fine. If you wish you may add a dash of lemon-juice. Jjeg of Mutton, with Caulijloivers and Spinach. Take a leg of mutton, cut venison fashion, and boil |t in a cloth. Boil two fine cauliflowers in milk and MEAT, ^C. 35 waler, pull them into sprigs, and stew them with bnt- ter, pepper, salt, and a little milk : stew some spinach in a saucepan, and piit to it a quarter of a pint o( gi*avy, with a piece of butter, and a little flour. When all is done, put the mutton in the middle of the dish, the spinach ronnd it, and the cauliflovver over all. The butter the cauliflower was stewed in must be pom-ed over it, and it must be made to appear like smootli cream. Lamb's Head. Wash the head very clean, take the black part from the eyes, and the gall from the liver. Lay the head in warm water; boil the lights, heart, and part of tiie liver. Chop and flom* them, and toss them up in a saucepan with some gravy, catchup, and a little pep- per, salt, lemon-juice, and a spoonful of cream. Boil the head very white, lay it in the middle of the dish, and the mince-meat round it. Place the other parts of the liv^er fried, with some very small bits of bacon on the mince-meat, and the brains fried in little cakes and laid on the rim of the dish, with some crisped pars- ley put between. Pour a little melted butter over the head, and garnish with lemon. Or you may dress it thus : Boil the head and pluck tender, but do not let the liver be too much done. Take the head up, hack it cross and cross with a knife, grate some nutmeg over it, and lay it in a dish before a good fire. Then grntv some crumbs of bread, some sweet herbs rubbed, a little lemon-peel chopped fine, a very little pepper and salt, and baste it with a little butter ; theji throw a little flour over it, and just as it is done do the same, baste and dredge it. Take half the liver, tlie hearty the lights, and tongue, chop them very small, with about a gill of gravy or water. First shake some flou? over the meat, and stir it together, then put in the gnny or water a good piece of butter rolled in a little flour, a little pepper and salt, and what runs from the head in tJie dish. Simmer all together c. few minutes, and 36 BOILING add half a spoonful of vinegar; pctir it into jour dish, lay the head in the middle of the mince-meat, have ready the otlier half of the liver cut tliin Avith j^onie slices of bacon broiled, and lay round the head. Gar- nish with lemon. Leg of Lamb boiled, and Loin fried. Cut yonr leg from the loin., and boil it three qnar- ters of an hour. Cnt the loin in handsome steaks, beat them ^^ ith a cleaver, and fry them a good brown. Then stew them a little in strong gravy. Put your leg on the dish, and lay your steaks roimd it. Pour on your gravy, lay round hnnps of staved spinach and crisped parsley on every steak. Send it to table with gooseberry sauce in a boat, and garnish with lemon. A Haunch or JVeck of Venison. Asa necessary preparation for eitlier of these joints, let it lie in salt for a week ; then boil it in a cloth well floured, and allow a quarter of an liour's boiling for every pound it weighs. For sauce, boil some cauli- flowers, pulled into little sprigs, in some milk and wa- ter, with some fine white cabbage, and turnips cut in dice ; add some beet-root cut into narrow pieces about an inch and a half long, and half an inch thick. After your cabbage is boiled, beat it up in a saucepan witli a piece of butter and salt. When your meat is done, and laid in the dish, put the cabbage next the cauli- flower, and then the turnips. Place the beet-root here and there, according to your fancy : and have a little melted butter in a cup, in case it should be wanted. This dish is not only excellent in its quality, but par- ticularly pleasing in its appearance. If any is left, it will eat well the next day, hashed with gi'avy and sweet sauce. Pickled Pork. After wasliing and scraping it perfectly clean, put it into the pot with the water cold, and when the rind feels tender, it is enough. The general sauce is green», among the variety of which you are to make choice to voiiv OAvn dh-ection. MEAT, t^C. 37 Pig''s Pettitoes. Boil the feet till they are quite tender, but take up the heart, liver, and lights, when they have boiled ten minutes, and shred them small. Then take out the feet and split them ; thicken your gravy with flour and butter, and put in your mince-meat, a spoonful o{ white wine, a slice of lemon, a little salt, and give it a gentle boil. Beat the yolk of an egg ; put to it two spoonsful of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Then put in the pettitoes, and shake it over the lire till it is quite hot, but do not let it boil. Put sippets into the dish, pour over the whole, and garnish with sliced lemon. SECT. II. BOILING POULTRY. Twkeys. A Turkey should not be dressed till three or foiu- days after being killed, as it ^ill otherwise not boil uhite, neither will it eat tender. When you have plucked it, draw it at the rump, cut off the legs, put the ends of the thighs into the body, and tie them w ith a string. Having cut off the head and neck, gi'ate a pen- ny loaf, chop fine about a score of oysters, shred a little lemon-peel, and put in a sufficient quantity of salt, pep- per, and nutmeg. Mix these up into a light force- meat, with a quarter of a pound of butter, three eggs, and a spoonful or two of cream. Stuff the craw of tlie turkey with one part of this composition: the other r.-iust be made into balls, and l)oiled. When you have sewed up the turkey, and dredged it with flour, put it into a kettle of cold water ; cover it close, set it over the fu'e, and when the scum begins to rise, take it clean oil, and then cover the kettle close. If a young one of a moderate size, let it boil very slowly for half an horn" then take off your kettle, and let it stand for some tim 33 BOILING close coveired, \vlicn tlie steam being confined, will sufficiently do it. When you dish it up, pour a .' lie of yoiu' oyster sauce o\er it, lay the force-meat balls round it, and serve it uj) with the rest of the sauce in a boat. Garnish your dish with barberries and lemon. The best sauces for a boihxl turkey are, good oyster and celery sauce. Make the oyster sauce thus : Take a pint of oysters, strain the liquor from them, and beard and wash them in cold water. Pom' the liquor clear olf into a stew-pan, and put in the oysters with a blade of mace, some butter rolled w ith flour, and a quarter of a lemon. When they boil up, put in half a pint of cream, and boil the whole gently togetlier. Take the lemon and mace out ; squeeze the juice of the lemon into the sauce, and serve it up in your boats or basins. Make the celery sauce thus : Cut the white part of the celery into pieces about an inch in length, and boil it in some water till it is tender. Then take hall a pint of veal brotli aiid a blade of mace, and tliickeii it Avith a little flour and butter; add half a pint of cream, and boil thejn gently together. Put in youi celery, and when it boils, pour them into yom* boats Chickens. xVfter you have draw^n them, lay them in skimmed milk for two hom'S, and truss them. Wlien you hn\e properly singed, and dusted them with flour, cover them close in cold water, and set them over a sIoav fire. Having taken ofl" the scum, and boiled them slowly fi\ <» or six minutes, take them off the fire, and keep tiu i;i close covered for half an hour in the water, which w ill do them sufliciently, and make them plump and wliite. Before you dish them, set them on the fire to heat then drain theiii and pour over tliem wliite sauce, which you must have made ready in the following manner : Take the heads and necks of the chickens, with :\ small bit of scrag of veal, or any scraps of mutton you may have by yoii, anc' put them into a saucepan, witii a blade or two of iriar«, and a few black peppercorns, an anchovy, a hi ;id v-f celerv, a slice of the end of > POULTRY, ^'C. 39 lemon, and a bnnch of sweet herbs. Put to these a qnart of water, cover it close, and let it boil till it is reduced to half a pint. Then strain it, and tliicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter mi.\ed with Hour, vind boil it five or six minutes. Then put in two vspoons fill of mushrooms, and mix the yolks of two eggs wiVn a tea-cup full of cream, and a little nutmeg grated. Put in your sauce, and keep shaking it over the fire till it is near boiling ; then pour it into yom* lx)ats, and serve it up with your chickens. Foivls. After having drawn your fowls, which you must be particularly careful in doing, cm off the head, neck, and legs. Skewer them with the ends of their legs in their bodies, and tie them roimd with a string. Singe and dust them w^ell v\dth flour, put them into cold wa- ter, cover the kettle close, and set it on the fire ; but take it off as soon as the scum begins to rise. Cover them close again, and let them boil gently twenty mi- nutes ; then take them off, and the heat of the water will do them sufficiently. Melted butter with pars- ley shred fine is the usual sauce, but you may serve them up with the like sauce as before directed for ciiickens. Rabbits or Duclcs. Boil your duck or rabbit in a good deal of water, and when the scum rises take it clean oft". A duck will take about twenty minutes, and a rabbit half an honr. Melted butter and parsley is frequently used as sauce for rabbits; but if you prefer onion sauce, which will do for either, make it thus : Peel your onions, and throw them into water as you peel them ; then cut tliem into thin slices, boil them in milk and water, and scmn the liquor. About half an hour will boil them. When they are sufficiently boiled, put them into a clean sieve to drain; chop them, and rub them tlu'ough a cullender; then put them into a saucepan, and shake a little flour, with two or three sjxwnsful of cream, and a good piece of butter. Stew them all together till 40 BOILING tliey are thick and fine; lay the duck or rabbit in a tiisii, and ponr the sauce all over. If a rabbit, you must phick out the jaw-bone^*, and stick one in each eye, the small end inwards Another sauce for a boiled duck may be made thus : Take a larjjje onion, a handful of parsley clean "washed and picked, and a lettuce ; cut the onion small, chop the parsley fine, and put them into a quarter of a pint of good gravy, Avith a spoonful of lemon-juice, and a little pepper and salt. When they have stewed to gether half an hour, add two spoonsful of red wine. Lay the duck in your dish, and pour the sauce over it. Pigeons. When you draw your pigeons, be careful to take out the craw as clean as possible. Wash them in se- veral waters, and having cut off the pinions turn their legs under their wings. Let them boil very slowly a quarter of an hoiu', and they will be suificiently done. Dish them up, and pour over them good melted butter; lay round the dish a little brocoli, and serve them up Avitli melted butter and parsley in boats. They should be boiled by themselves, and may be eaten with bacon, greens, spinach, or asparagus. Geese. Singe a goose, and pour over it a quart of boiling milk. Let it continue in the milk all night, then take it out, and dry it well with a cloth. Cut an onion very small with some sage, put them into the goose, SCAN it up at the neck and Aent, and hang it up by the legs till the next day ; then put it into a pot of cold Avater, cover it close, and let it boil gently for an hoiu'. Seive it up Avith onion sauce. Partridges. Boil them quick in a good deal of Avater, and fifteen minutes aahII be sufficient. For sauce, take a quarter of a pint of cream, and a bit of fresh butter about the size of a Avalnut. Stir it one Avay till it is melted. nnd then i^oir it over the ])irds. fOULTRY, t^'C. 41 Pheasants, These must he likewise boiled in plenty of water. If it be a small one, half an hour will be sufficient, but if a large one, three quarters. For sauce, stew some lieads of celery cut very fine, thickened Avith cream, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and season with salt to your palate. When yonr bird is done, pom* the sauce over it, and garnish the dish with thin slices of lemon. Snipes or Woodcocks. Snipes or Woodcocks must be boiled in good strong broth, or beef gravy, which you must make as follows : Cut a pound of lean beef into small pieces, and put it into four quarts of water, with an onion, a ^ jndle of sweet herbs, a blade or two of mace, six . Jo\ es, and some whole pepper. Cover it close, let it tx>il till it is half wasted, then strain it off, and put the gravy into a saucepan, with salt enough to season it. Draw the birds clean, but take particular care of the guts. Put the birds into the gravy, cover them close, and ten minutes will boil them. In the meantime cut the guts and liver small, then take a little of the gravy the birds are boiling in, and stew the guts in it with a blade of mace. Take about as much of the cruml) of bread as the inside of a roll, and rub or grate it very small into a clean cloth, then put into a pan with some butter, and fry it till crisp, and of a line light brown coloiu'. When your birds are ready, take about half a pint of the liquor they v^ere ])oiied in, ^\\(\ add to the guts two spoonsful of red Avine, and a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, rolled in flour. Set them on the Are, and shake yom* saucepan often, (but by no means stir it witli a spoon,) till the butter is melted ; then put in the fried crumbs, gi\ e the saucepan another sliake, take up your birds, lay them in the dish, and pour your sauce over them Gamish with sliced lemon. 42 BOlLIlfO SECT. III. BOILING FISH. Turbot. When you liave tlioroiighly washed anl cleansed your fish, rub some allegar over it, Avhichwill greatly contribute to its firmness. Put it in your fisii-plate with the belly upwards, and fasten a cloth tight over it to prevent its breaking. Let it boil gently in hard water, with plenty of salt and vinegar, and scum it well, to prevent the skin being discolom'ed. Be sure not to put in your fish till the water boils, and when it is enough, take it up, and drain it. Remove the cloth carefully, and slip the fish very cautiously on the dish, for fear of breaking it. Lay over it oyster- patties, or fried oysters. Put yom' lobster or gravy sauce into boats, and garnish with crisped parsley anil picldes. Another Way to dress a Turbot. Put into the bottom of yom* stew-pan some thyme, parsley, sweet herbs, and an onion sliced. Then lay in yom* fish, and strew over it the like quantity of the same herbs, Avith some chives and sweet basil. Co\'er tlie fish with an equal quantity of white wine and the best vinegar. Strew in a little bay salt with some whole pepper. Set the stew-pan over a gentle fire, .ipid gradually increase the heat till it is enough; when done, take it off the fire, but let the fish remain in the liquor, till you have made yom* sauce as fol- lows : Set a saucepan over the fire, with a pound of buttei', two anchovies split, boned, and washed, two large spoonsful of capers, cut small, some chives whole, a little pepper and salt, some nutmeg grated, a little flour, a spoonfid of vinegar, and a little water. — Keep shaking it round for some time, and then put on the fish to make it quite hot. When both are done, put the turbot into a dish, pour some of the sauce over it, and the remainder mto a boat. Garnish the dish with horse-radish. FISH. 43 Turhot en Maigre. 'Put into your stew-pan a pint of water, a good bit of salt, some garlic, onions, all sorts of sweet herbs, and cloves ; boil the whole half an hour over a slow fh'e Let it settle. Pom* it off clear, and strain it through a sieve ; then put in twice as much milk as brine, and put the fish in it over a slow fire, letting it sinnner only. When your turbot is done, you may ser\'e it with any one of the following sauces : Ragout of egg balls, ragout of oysters, or truffles, or mush- room, or a sauce hachee. Salmon. This is so substantial a fish, that it requires to be well l>oiled. A piece not very thick w ill take half an houi Boil horse-radish in the water. For sauce, melt some butter plain, and some other with anchovy. Garnish with horse-radish and sliced lemon. To dress a tvhole Salmon for a large Company. When the salmon is scalded and gutted, take off the head and tail, cut the body through into slices an inch and a half thick, and throw them into a large pan of pump water. When they are all put in, sprinkle a handful of bay salt upon the water, stir it about, and then take out the fish. Set on a large deep stew- pan, boil the head and tail, but do not spht the head, and put in some salt. When they have boiled ten minutes, skim the water very clean, and put in the slices. When they are boiled enough, take them out, lay the head and tail in a dish, and the slices round. Serve it up with plain melted butter and anchovy sauce. Garnish with horse-radish, mixed with the slices. Cod's Head. Take out the gills and the blood, wash the whole very clean, rub over it a little salt, and a glass of alle- gar, and lay on your fish plate. When the water boils, tlirow in o good handful of salt, with a glass of alle- gar. Then put in the fish, and let it boil gently half an hour (if it s a large one, three quarters.) Take it iij> 4* 44 BOILING very carefully, and strip the skin clean off, set it before a brisk fire, dredge it all ov^er ^vitil flour, and baste it well with butter. When the froth begins to rise, throw over it some very flne white bread crumbs, and continue basting it to make it froth well. When it is ofa flue light brown, dish it np, and garnish it with lemon cut in slices, scraped horse-radish, barberries, a ^ew small fish fried and laid round it, or fried oysters. Cut the row and liver in slices, and lay it over a littk' of the lumpy part of the lobster out of the sauce, which you must make as follows : Take a good lobster, and stick a skewer in the vent of the tail to keep out the water. Throw into the water a handfifl of salt, and when it boils, put in the lobster, which will be done in half an hour. If it has spawm, pick them off, and pomid them very flne in the mortar. Put them into half a pound of good melted butter : then take the meat out of your lobster, break it in bits, and put that in likewise, with a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, the same of walnut catchup, a slice of lemon, one or two slices of horse-radish, and a small quantity of beaten mace; season it to your taste with salt and chyan pepper. Boil them one minute, then take out the horse-radish and lemon, pom* it into your sauce-boat, and serve it up with your fish. — If lobsters cannot be procured, you may make use of oysters or shrimps the same way ; and if you cannot get any kind of shell fish, 30U may then add to tlie butter two anchovies cut small, a spoonful of walnut hquor, and an onion stuck with cloves. IVJiole Cod, Put a large quantity of water into yoiu' fish-kettle, which must be of a proper size for the cod, with a quarter of a pint of vinegar, a handful of salt, and hall a stick of horse-radish. Let these boil together for some time, and then put in the fish. When it is done enough (which will be known by feeling the fins, and the look of the fish) lay it to drain, put it in a hot fish- plate, and then in a warm dish, with the hver cut in FISH. 45 ii.'iir, and laid on each side. Serve it np with slirimp or oyster-sauce, and garnish with scraped horse-radish. Salt Cod. Steep your salt fish in water all night, with a glass of vinegar thro^ni into it, with which take out the salt ; and make it as mild as fresh fish. The next day hoil it, and ^vhen it is enough, separate it in flakes into your dish. Then pour egg-sauce over it, or parsnips boiled and beat fine with butter and cream. As it will soon grow cold, send it to table on a water plate. Cod Sou7ids. Boil your sounds well, but be careful they are not done too much. Take them up, and let them stand till tliey are quite cold. Then make a forcemeat of chop- ped oysters, crumbs of bread, a lump of butter, tlie yolks of two eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and fill your sounds with it. Sl^ewer them in the shape of a turkey, and lard them down each side, as you would the breast of a turkey. Dust them well with flour, and put them before the fire in a tin oven to roast. Baste them well with butter, and when enough, pour on them oyster-sauce, and garnish with barberries. This is a pretty side-dish for a large table ; or very proper in the time of Lent. Soles ^ Take a pair of soles, skin and gut them. Then wash them tlioroughly clean, and lay them in vinegar, salt and ^vater, for two hours ; then dry them in a cloth, put them into a stew-pan witii a pint of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with six cloves, some whole pepper, and a little salt. Cover them quite close, and when enough, take them up, lay thein in your dish, strain the liquor, and thicken it with butter and flom\ Pour the sauce ovei', and garnish with scraped horse-radish and lemon. You may add prawns, shrimps, or muscles to your sauce, according to the fancy of those for whom you provide, This is a very good method ; but to make a a ariety, you may dress them as folio us : 40 BOII.I/JG Take two or t'nree pair of midiUing sized soles, skin, gut, and wasli them iu sprinj^ water. Then put them on a disli, and pour halt' a pint of white wine over them, turn them two or three times in it, and then pour it away. Cut olf the heads and tails of the soles, and set on a stew-pan with a little rich lish broth ; put in an onion cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper, salt, and a blade of mace. When these boil, put in the soles, and with them half a lemon cut in sHces with the peel on. Let them simmer slowly for some time, then take out the sweet herbs, and put in a pint of strong white wine, and a piece of butter rol- led in flour. Let them all simmer together till the soles are enough. While the fish are doing, put in half a pint of veal gravy, and a quarter of a pint of es.-'ence of ham, let it boil a little, then take up the sole.s, pud pour this over them. Serve up sauce as before di- rected, and garnish your dish with sliced lemon and horse-radish. Trout. Boil them in vinegar, water, and salt, with a piece of horse-radish ; and serve them jp with anchovy- sauce and plain butter. Pike, Whe> you have taken out the ^Jls and guts, and tlioroughly w^ashed it, make a good foi-cemeat of chop- ped oysters, the crumb of half a penny loaf, a litlJe lemon-peel shred fine, a lump of butter, the yolks ol two eggs, a few sweet herbs, and seasow them to your taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Mix all these well together, and put them into the belly of the fish, which must be sew^ed up, and skewered r*and. Boil it in hard water w ith a httle salt, and a tea-cup full of vinegar put into the pan. As soon as the water boils, put in the fish, (but not before,) and if it is of a middling size, it wdll be done in half an hour. Serve it up with oyster-sauce in a boat, having first poured a little on the fish. Garnish with pickled Ixirberries. FISH. 47 Carp. When you kill your carp, save all the blood, and have ready some nice gravy, made of beef and mutton, seasoned \\'\i\\ pepper, salt, mace, and onion. Before you put in your fish, strain it off, and boil your carp be- fore you put it into the gravy. Set it on a slow fire about a quarter of an houi , and thicken the sauce with a large piece of butter rolled in flour ; or you may make your sauce thus : take the liver of the carp clean from the guts, three anchovies, a little parsley," thyme, and an onion. Cliop these small together, and take half a pint of Rhenish -wine, four spoonsful of vinegar, and the blood of the carp. When all these are stewed gently together, put it to the carp, Avhich must first be boiled in wa- ter with a little salt and a pint of wine ; but take care not to do it too much after the carp is put into the sauce. Mullets. These must be boiled in salt and water. When they are enough, pour away part of the water, and put to the rest a pint of red wine, some salt and vinegar, two onions sliced, with a bunch of sw^eet herbs, some nutmeg, beaten mace, and the juice of a lemon. Boil these well together, with two or three anchovies. Then put in the fish, and when they have simmered in it some time, put them into a dish, and strain the sauce over them. You may add slmmp or oyster-sauce according to your discretion. Mackarel. Gut and Avash them clean, then dry them in a cloth, and rub them gently over with vinegar. Lay them strait on your fish plate, and be very careful in handling them, as they are so tender a fish that they will easily break. When the water boils, put them into your fish- pan with a little salt, and let them boil gently about a quarter of an hour. When you take them up, drain them w^ell, and put the ^vater that runs from them into a sauce-pan with one large spoonful of catchup, a blade or two of mace, an anchovy, and a slice of lemon. I/Cl 48 BOILING these all boil together ahoiit a quarter of an hour, then strain it throngli a hair sieve, and tliicken it ^vitli flonr and butter. Put this sauce in one boat, and melted but- ter and parsley in another. Dish u]) your fish with their tails in the middle ; and garnish with scraped horse- radish and barberries, Mackarel jnay be served Avith melted butter and a little fennel, cut fine, mixed ^^ ith scalded gooseberries ; also with sweet herbs, cut fine, in melted butter, with a little anchovy essence. Mackarel a-la Bourgeois. Split them open, put pepper, salt, mace, parsley, shalots, and bread crumbs, with some butter on them. You may either fiy or send them to the oven. Ser^ e them up with plain melted butter. Heri'ings. Scale, gut, and wash t.hen\, then dry them tho- rouglily in a cloth, and rub them over w ith a little salt and vinegar. Skewer their tails in then- mouths, and lay them on your fisli plate. When the water boils, put them in, and about ten or twelve minutes w ill do theiiK After you have taken them up, let them drain properly, and then turn their heads into the middle of the disli. Serve them up with melted butter and parsley, and gar- nish with scraped horse-radish. Flounders, Plaice, and Dabs. As the similarity of these fish is so great, the me- thod of dressing either must be the same. First cut off the fins, nick the brown side under the head, and take out the guts. Then dry them with a cloth, and boil them in salt and w^ater. Serve them up w ith shrimp, cockle, or muscle sauce, and garnish w^itli red cabbage. Pei^ch. Put your fish into the water when it boils, Avith some salt, an onion cut in shces, some parsley, and as much milk as w ill turn the water. When the fish is enough, put it into a soup-dish, and pom* a little of the water with the parsley and onions over it. SerA e it up Avith melted butter and parsley in a boat. FISH. 49 Eels. After skinning, gutting, and properly washing l.heni, cut off their heads, dry them, and twist them round on your fish pkite. Boil them in salt and water, and serv-e them up witli melted butter and parsley. If you only boil them in such a quantity of water as will just cover them, the liquor will be exceeding good, and very beneficial to weak or consumptive constitutions. Sturgeon. When youliav^e cleaned your fish properly, prepare as much liquor as will boil it in the following manner To two quarts of water put a pint of vinegar, a stick of horse-radish, two or three bits of lemon-peel, some whole pepper, a bay-leaf, and a small quantity of salt. Boil your fish in this liquor, and when enough (which you will know by the flesh appearing likely to sepa- rate from the bones) take it up, and have ready the following sauce : Melt a pound of butter, dissolve an anchovy in it, put in a blade or two of mace, bruise the body of a crab in the butter, a few shrimps or cray-fish, a little catchup, and a little lemon-juice. When it boils, take up the sturgeon, drain it well, lay it in your dish, and serve it up with the sauce poured into boats. Garnish with fried oysters, sliced lemon, and scraped horse-radish. Turtles. These animals not only furnish the most delicious repast to the epicure, but to all those who can obtain so luxurious a gratification. They are of various sizes, and that the reader may be informed how to dress them, Ave shall here confine ourselves to one of about eighty pounds weight. Take the turtle out of the Ava- ter the night before you intend to dress it. In the morning cut its throat, or the head off", and let it bleed for some time. Then cut off the fins ; scald, scale, and trim them and the head, and raise the callipee, Avhich is the belly or under shell; clean it well, leaving to it as much meat as you conveniently can. Take from the back shell all the mea<^ and entrails, except the mon- No. 3. G 50 BOILING isieur, whicli is the fat, Jiiicl looks ^'cen : this .nnst also 1)0 baked witli tlie sliell. Wash all clean with sail and water, and cut it into pieces of a moderate size. Take it from the bones, and put them witii the fir.h and head into a soup-pot, with a gallon of water, some salt, and two blades of mvine, with as much of the broth as will coxer it, and let it stew till tender, wliich will take about four or five hours. When it is nearly enough, skim it, thicken it with flour, and some veal broth, and make it about th^.? thickness of a fricasee. Let your forcemeat balls be fi"ied about the size of a walnut, and stewed about hali an hour with the rest. If there are any eggs, let them be boiled and cleaned : but if none, get twelve or four- teen yolks of hard eggs. Then put the steAV (which is the callipash) into the shell with the eggs, and either make use of a salamander, or put it into the oven to hake. Slash the callipee in several places, put some hnfter to it, and season it moderately with chyan and 'Ahite pepper, salt, beaten mace, chopped thyme, pars- ley, and young onions. Put a piece on each slash, and some over the whole, and a dust of flour : then bake it in a brisk oven, in a tin or iron dripping-pan. The back shell, which is called the callip.'ish. must be sea- PISH. 51 soned like the callipee, and baked in a dripping-pan, set upright, with four brick-bats, or any thing of that kind. An hoiu* and a half will bake it, which must be done before the stew be put in. The fins, whcii boiled very tender, must be taken out of the soup, arui put into a stew-pan, with some good veal gravy, p.ot lu'gh coloured, a little Madeira wine, seasoned and thickened as the callipash, and served in a dish by itself The lights, heart, and liver, may be done tlic same way, but a little higher seasoned ; or the lights and heart may be stewed with the callipash, and taken out before you put it into the shell, with a little of the sauce, addhig a little more seasoning ; but dish it ]jy itself The veal part may be made fricandos, or Scotci) coUops. The liver should never be stewed with the callipash, but dressed by itself in any manner you like ; except you separate the hghts and heart from the cal- lipash, and serve them together in one dish. Be care- ful to strain the soup, and serve it in a tureen, or large china bowl. The different dishes may be placed on the table as follows : The callipee at the head, the cal- lipash at the bottom, and the lights, soup, fins, &c. in the centre. — The fins kept in the liquor wiU eat well when cold. Court Bouillon f 07' all Jcinds of fresh Fish. Put into your fish kettle, Avliich must be according to the size of your fish, some water, a quart of white wine, a bit of butter, salt, pepper, a faggot of sweet herbs, some stewed onions and carrots : lx>il your fish in tlMS Dquor. 5 52 CHAPTER III. ROASTIJYG IJV GENERAL. SECT. I BUTCHER'S MEAT. THE first consideration of the cook in roasting mi si be to regulate tlie strength of lier fire in proportion ic the article she has to dress. If it is a small or thin joint, the fire must be brisk, that it may be done quicli: ; bnt if a large one, a substantial fire must be made, in order that it may gradually receive the heat, and by stirring up the fire, when it begins to bm'n up, and keeping the bottom clear, the meat must be roasted as it ought to be, and with little trouble to the cook. Never put salt on your meat before you lay it to the fire, as it will be apt to draw out the gi'a^y. In roast- ing Beef, if it be a large piece, skewer a sheet of writ- ing paper over the fat, and baste it well while roasting. When it is near enough, which you will know by the smoke drawing to the fire, take oft' the paper, then baste it well and dredge it with flour to make it frothy. Mutton and Lamb must be roasted with a clear quick fire. Veal requires particular care, and must be done of a fine light brown colour. If it is a fillet or loin, put paper over the fat, in the same manner as you do beef. At first let it be some distance from the fire, and baste it with butter : but when it is got thoroughly warm put it nearer, and when nearly done, dredge it Avith flour. If a breast, put the caul over it, with the sweet- bread skewered on the back, and, when sufficiently done, take off the caul and dredge it with flour. Pork well as Veal should be well done, otherwise it will AHuseate : but mutton and beef, if a little underdone, may be dispensed with. Wild Fotvls must be roast- ed with a clear, brisk fire, and when they are frothy, suid of a light brown colour, they are enough. Great ROASTING MEAT. 63 care must be taken not to overdo them as the loss of gravy will prochice a want of the flavour. Tame folds requh'e more roasting, and must be often basted, in order to keep up a strong froth, wliich will make them look well when brought to table. Pigs and Geese must be done vrith a quick hre, turned quick, and frequently basted. Hares and Rabbits require time and care, otherwise the body will be done too much, and the ends too little. In roasting any article, always allow longer time for it in frosty than in mild weather, and take particular care that yom' spits are thoroughly clean before you put on your meat, as no- thing is more disagreeable than the mark of it left in the flesh. Having laid before the cook these necessary and gen- neral observations in roasting, we shall now proceed to give directions for dressing the respective articles un- der this head ; beginning with Beef. The first steps to be taken in roasting Beef we have akeady noticed in the foregoing observations. It re- mains, therefore, only to say, that the time each joint will take doing mast be proportioned to its weight. If a piece often pounds, it will take an hour and a half at a good fne. Twenty pounds weight, if a thick piece, will take three hours, but if thin, half an horn- less ; and so on in proportion to the weight. When done, take it up, and put it into your dish. Serve it with potatoes, horse-radish, and pickles for sauce, and garnish th3 rim of the dish with horse-radish scraped very fine. Mutton and Lamb. Mutton and Lamb must be roasted with a quick clear fire. Baste it as soon as you lay it down, sprinkle on a little salt, and when near done, dredge it with flour. A leg of mutton of six pounds will take an hour and a quarter, and one of twelve tw o hours ; a breast half an hovn* at a quick fire ; a neck an hour, and a shoul • der much about the same time as a leg. In dress- 64 ROASTING ing the loin, the chine (which is the two loins) and the saddle (which is the two necks and part of the shoulders cut together) you must raise the skin, and skewer iton, and when near done, take off the skin, and baste it to froth it up. Send some good plain gravy up with it. Haunch of Mutton dressed like Venison. Take a hind-quarter of fine mutton, stale killed, and cut tlie leg like a haunch. Lay it in a pan with the back downwards, pour in a bottle of red wine, and let the meat soak in it twenty-four hours. Before you spit it, let it be covered with clean paper and paste as you do venison, in order to preserve the fat. Roast it before a quick lire, and keep basting with butter mixed w ith some of the liquor in which it w^as soaked. When done, serve it up with some good rich gravy in one boat, and sweet sauce in another. It will take about three hours roasting. A Fore-quarter of House Lamb. A small fore-quarter of house-lamb will take an liour and a half roasting ; a leg three quarters of an horn*. When it is done, and put into the dish, cut off the shoulder, and pepper and salt the ribs. Serve it up with salad, broccoli, potatoes, or mint sauce. Tongues or Udders. Parboil the tongue before you put it down to roast ; stick eight or ten cloves about it, baste it with butter, and serve it up w ith some gravy and sweet- meat sauce. An udder may be roasted after the same manner. You may also lard the tongue nicely, bu( take care that the fu-e does not burn the larding. Veal. If your fu*e is good, veal will take about a quarter of an hour to each pound in roasting. The ^-xi of the loin and fillet must l>e covered wnth paper, as w^e have be- fore observed. The fillet and shoulder must be stuffed «vith the following savoury composition : a quarter of a M£AT. 55 pound of suet chopped fine, parsley and sweet herbs chopped, 2^'ated bread, and lemon peel ; pepper, .salt, and a little nutmeg, and the yolk of an cg;g;. Work these all well together, and stuff them into your veal as secm*e as you can, that it may not fall out while roasting. The breast must be roasted with the cavil on till it is near enough ; then take it off, and flour and baste the meat. When you have taken it up, and put it into your dish, pour a little melted butter over it, and serve it up with any of the following sauces ; potatoes, brocoli, cucumbers stewed, French beans, peas, cauli- flowers, celery stewed. Remember in dressing any joint of veal that it is well done, but at the same time let it not be too much. If it is not done enough it will be too disgustful to enjoy, and if too much, the juices vyill be lost, and the flesh eat tasteless. Pork. Pork, like veal, must be well done. If it is a loin, take a sharp penknife, and cut the skin across, which will not only make tlie joint more convenient to carve, but will also make tlie rind or crackling more pleasant to eat. A leg of pork must be scored in the same man- ner as the loin; if not particularly objected to, stuil the knuckle part with sage and onion chopped fine, with pepper and salt : or cut a hole under the twist, put the seasoning there, and fasten it with a skewer. Roast it crisp, as it will make the crackling, of whicli most people are fond, eat the better. If yon want a Spring, (which is not very common, though, at the same time, if young, will eat exceeding well,) cut off the shank, or knuckle, sprinkle sage and onion over it, roll it round, and tie it with a string. About two hours will do it. The Spare-i^ib shonld be basted with a little bit of butter, a very little dust of flour, and some dried sage shred small. The principal sauces for any kind of roast pork are, potatoes, mustard, and apple sance, the latter of which you must make tlius . P(u*e, core, and slice some apples, and put them into a ssauce-pan wirh a little water, to prevent tlieir biu'n- 5* ^6 ROASTING ing, and throw in a bit oi' icmon-peel. When tliet are enough, take out the peel, bruise the apples, and add a piece of butter and a little sugar. When yon have worked the whole together very line, set it on the fire till it is qnite hot, then put it into your basin, and serve it up with the meat. If it is a leg of pork, have a little drawn gi'avy ready against it is done, and ])oi{r it into the dish when you serve it up. The best way of dressing Pork Griskin is to roast it, baste it with a little butter and sage, and a little pepper and salt. The only article used as sauce for this is mustard. Slicking Pigs When your pig is properly prepared for dressing, ;Qnt into the belly of it a little sage shredded fine, with aome salt, a tea-spoonful of black pepper, and a crust of brown bread. Then spit it, sew up the belly, and lay it down to a brisk clear fii'e, with a pig-plate hung in the middle to prevent the body part being done be- fore the extremities. As soon as it is warm, put a piece of butter into a cloth, and frequently rub the pig with it while roasting. When it becomes of a fine brown, and the steam draAvs to the fire, rub it quite dry with a clean cloth, and then Avith a bit of cold but- ter, which will help to crisp it. Having taken it up, and put it into your dish, cut off the head with a sharp knife, and take off the collar, the ears, and the jaw- bone. Split the jaw in two, and when you have cut the pig down the back, which must be done before you draw out the spit, lay the two sides with the back part to each other, a jaAV on each side, and an ear on each shoulder, and the collar on the shoulder. Have rea- dy your sauce, Avhich you must make in the following manner : Having chopped the brains, put them in a saucepan, with a tea-spoonful of white gra^y, the gravy that runs out of the pig, (which you must be carefiil to save, by putting a basin or pan in the dripping-pan under the pig as soon as the gravy begins to run,) and a small piece of anchovy. Add to these half a pound of butter, and as much flour as will thicken the gravy. MEAT. 67 a slice of lemon, a spoonful of white wine, some caper liquor, and. a little salt. Sliake it over the fire till it is quite hot, then pour it into your dish with the pig, and serve it up. You may likewise boil a few currants, and send them in a tea-saucer, with a glass of currant jelly in the middle. As there may sometimes be a necessity for the cook's killing the pig herself, it may not be improper to inform her in that case how to proceed. Stick the pig just above the breast-bone, and let the knife touch its heart, otherwise it will be a long time dying. As soon as it is dead, put it into cold water for a few minutes, and rub it over with a little rosin beat exceeding fine, or instead of that use its own blood, which will nearly answer the same purpose. Let it lie half a minute in a pail of scalding water, then take it out, lay it upon a clean table, and. strip oft" all the hairs as fast as possible ; but if they do not come clean off, put it into the hot water again, and when it is perfectly clean off, wash it in warm water, and then in two or three cold waters, that, Avhen dressed, it may not taste of the rosin. Take off the four feet at the first joints, slit it down the belly, and take out all the entrails. Put the heart, liver, lights, and pettitoes together ; wash the pig well in cold water, and having perfectly dried it with a cloth, hang it up. When you dress it, proceed asbefoie directed. Calf's Head. When you have thoroughly washed, and cleansed it from tlie slime, take out the bones, and dry it well in a cloth. Make a seasoning of beaten mace, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and cloves, some bacon cut very small, and some grated bread. Strew this over the head, roll it up, skewer it, and tie it with tape. While roast- ing, baste it with butter, and when done, having pre- viously made a rich veal gravy, thickened witli butter rolled in flom-, pom- it over, and serve it to table. Some like mushroom sauce, in which case make it as fol- lows : Clean and wash a quart of fresh mushrooms, cut them into pieces, and put them into -i stcAv-pan, No. 3. n 58 ROASTING with a little salt, a blade of mace, and a little butter. Stew them gently for half an hour, and then add a pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs beaten up fnie . keep stirring it till it boils, then pour it into a boat, and vserve it up with the head. This is an excellent sauce for fowls or turkeys. Ham, or Ga^imon of Bacon. Whichever you dress of these, take off the skin or rind, and lay the meat in hike-warm water for two or three hours. Then put it into a pan, pour over it a quart of Canary wine, and let it soak about half an hour. When you have spitted it, put a sheet of clean paper over the fat side, pom- the Canary, in which it was soaked, into the dripping-pan, and baste the meat with it all the time it is roasting. W^hen it is enough, take off the paper, and dredge it well with crumbled bread and parsley shred fine. Make the fii'e brisk, and brown it well. If you serve it up hot, garnish with raspings of bread ; but if cold for a second course, gar- nish w itli green parsley. SECT. II. ROASTING POULTRY. Tu7'keys. When your Turkey is properly trussed for dress- ing, stuff it with the following ingredients : Take foia* ounces of butter, or chopped suet, some grated bread, a little lemon peel, parsley, and sweet herbs cIiopj)cd together, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, a little cream, and the yolks of two or three eggs; work these all well to- gether, and fill the craAV witli it. Let your fire be very brisk, and when you put it down paper the breast, antl let it continue on till near done ; then take it off, dredge it with flour, and keep basting it till it is done. If it is a large tui'key, serve it up with gravy alone, or brown celery, or mus^lu'ooui sauce. If it is a turkey-poult, POULTRY. 59 serve it up wdth gravy and bread sauce, the latter oi which make thus : Cut the crumby part of a penuy loaf into thin slices, put it into a saucepan with cold water, a few pepper corns, a little salt, and an onion : boil it till the bread is quite soft, and then beat it \ ery hue : put it into a quarter of a pound of butter, witii two spoonsful of thick cream, and when it boils up, pour it into a basin, or boat, and serve it up with the turkey. A middling sized tmkey will take more than an hour, a small one three quarters of an horn*, and a very large one an hour and a half In dressing these, as well as fowls, always let your fu'e be clear and brisk. Folds. When your fowls are laid to the fire, singe them, then baste them with butter, and dredge over some flour. When the smoke begins to dra# to the fire, baste and dredge them again : let the fire be brisk, and send them to table with a good froth. The pro- per sauces for roast fowls are, gravy, egg, muslnroom, or celery-sauce, the latter of which make thus : Wash and pare a large bunch of celery very clean, cut it into thm bits, and boil it gently in a little water till it is tender : then add a little beatcji mace, nutmeg, pep- per, and salt, and thicken it with a large piece of but- ter rolled in flour : then give it a boil, and serve it up in a boat. To tlie water in which you boil the celery put a half pint of cream, wliich will make it very rich and substantial. This is an excellent sauce, not only ■for fowls but also for partridges, or any other game of the same kind. Chickens, Be particularly careful in drawing your chickens, which done, cut ofl" their claws, and truss them for dressing. Put them down to a good fire, and singe, dust, and baste them with butter. When they are enough, fi-oth them, and lay them in yom* dish. Serve tliem UD with parsley and butter poured over them, and 60 hOASTING gi'avy and mushroom sauce in boats. A large chicJker will take lialf.in hour, a small one twenty minutes. Green Geese. When the goose is properly cleaned, and ready for dressing, put into tliehody a large lump of butter, then «'^ed, strain off the gravy, put some into the dish with the ducks, and the remain- der in a boat or basin. Wild ducks must be done in the same manner. Pigeons. After you have drawn your Pigeons, and taken the craws clean out, w^ash them in several waters. When you have dried them, roll a good lump of butter in some chopped parsley, and season it witli pepper and salt. Put this into your pigeons, tlien spit, dust with flour, and baste them. When enough, serve them up with parsley and butter for sauce, and, if in season, garnish yoiu* disli Avith bunches of asparagus. A good fire will ••oast them in twenty minutes. Larks. Take a dozen of Larks, put them on a skewer, and tie both ends of the skewer to the spit. Dredge and baste them, and in about ten or twelve minutes tliey will be done. Make your sauce thus : take the crumb of half a penny loaf, slu'ed it very fine, and put it into a stew-pan or frying pan, with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut. Shake it over a gentle fire till it is of a light brown, then lay it between your birds on your plate or dish, and pour a little melted butter over them. Rabbits. When you have cased your rabbits, skewer their heads upon their backs, their fore legs into their ribs, and the hind legs double. Take the crumb of half a penny loaf, a little parsley, thwie, swcet-marjoruui, and lemon-peel. Shred all these fine, and season them A^ith pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Mix them up into a light 02 ROASTING stiifling with two eggs, a little cream, and a quarter of a j>ound of butter. Put this into their bellies, sew tiicin lip, and dredge and baste them well with butter. When done, take tliem up, chop the livers after boil- ing, and lay them in lumps round the edge of your dish. Serve them up with parsley and butter for sauce. To roast a rabbit hare fashion, you must lard it with bacon, and baste it in the same manner you do a hare, directions for which you will fmd in the next section. If you lard it, make gravy sauce; if not, white sauce will be most proper. SECT. III. ROASTING GAME. Pheasants and Partridges. The same methods are to be taken in dressing ei- ther of these birds. When you have spitted and laid them down, dust them with flour, and baste them often uitii fresh butter, keeping them at a good distance from the lire. About half an hour will roast them. Make your gravy of a scrag of mutton, and put into the sauce-pan Avith it a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large spoonful of catsup, and the same of brown- ing.* Strain it, and put a little into the dish witli the birds. Serve them up with the remainder in one ba- *As we shall have frequent occasion to mention the article oiown- iNG, it will be necessary here to give proper directions how to nialce it. — Beat small four ounces of treble refined sugar, and put it info a Irving pan with one ounce of bitter. — Set it over a clear fire, and mix it well together. When it begins to be frothy by the sugar dissolving, hold it higher over the fire, and have ready a pint of red wine. ^^ hen the sugar and butter is of a deep brown, pour in a Kttle of the wine, and stir it well together ; then add more wine, and keep stirring it all the time. Put in half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, six cloves, four .-halots peeled, two or three blades of mace, three spoonsful of catsup, a little salt, and a rind of one lemon. Boil them slowly abouf ten m'nutcs, and then pour it into a basin. When cold, take off the seutr very clean, aiul botde it up for use. GAME. (53 sin, and bread sauce in another. By way of ornament fLK one of tlie principal feathers of the pheasant in its tail. Woodcocks or Snipes, These birds are so peculiar from all others, that they must never be drawn. When you have spitted them, take the round of a threepenny loaf, and toast it nice and brov n ; then lay it in a dish, mider the birds, and when }ou put them to the hre, baste them witli a little butter, and let the trail or gut drop on the toast. When tliey are done, put the toast in a dish, and lay the birds on it. Pour about a quarter of a pint of gravy into the dish, and set it over a lamp or chafing- dish for three or four minutes, and then take it liot to table. A woodcock will take about twenty minutes roasting, and a snipe fifteen. Hares. When your hare is cased and properly trussed for dressing, make a stuffing thus : Take a large slice of bread, and crumble it very fine, put to it a quarter of a pound of beef marrow, or suet, the like quantity of butter, the liver boiled and shred fine, a sprig or two of winter savory, a bit of lemon-peel, an anchovy, a little chyan pepper, and half a nutmeg grated. MLx: these well together ^vitli a glass of red wine and two eggs, put it into the belly of the hare and sew it up. When you have spitted it, and laid it before the fii'e, put into yonr dripping-pan a quart of milk, and keep basting your hare with it till there is little left. W^hen it is nearly done, dredge it with flour, and baste it witli but- ter till it is properly frothed. If it is a small hare it will take about an hour and a half; and if a large one two hours. When done, put it into your dish, and serve it up with plenty of good rich gi'avy, and some currant-jelly warmed in a cup ; or red wine and sugar done to a syrup thus : Take a pint of red wine, put it into a quarter of a pound of sugar, set it over a slow fire, and let it simmer for a quarter of an hour ; then take it off, and pour it into your sauce-lwat or basin- G 04 ROASTING FISH. Venison. Take a haunch of venison, and when you have spitted it, rub some butter all over it. Take ibui .sheets of clean paper, well buttered, two of which put on the haunch. Then make a paste with some flour, a little butter and ^\ ater ; roll it out half as big as your hainich, and put it over the fat part ; cover this with the other tvk^o sheets of paper, and tie them ftist ^^ith packthread. Lay it to a brisk fire, and baste it well all the time it is roasting. When it is near done, take off both paper and paste, dredge it well with flour, and baste it with butter. As soon as it becomes of a light brown, take it up, and serve it to table with brown gravy, currant-jelly, or the syrup mentioned in the preceding article for a hare. A haunch will take about three hours roasting. SECT. IV. ROASTING FISH. To roast Sturgeon. Put a piece of butter rolled in flour into a stew-pan, with salt, pepper, parsley, onions, sweet herbs, cloves, half a pint of water, and a little vinegar. Stir it over the fire, and when it is luke-warm take it off", and put your stiu'geon in to steep. When it has taken the flavour of the herbs, roast it, and serve it up with any vege table sauce you think fit. Roasted en Gras. Lard it with fat bacon, roast it, and serv^e it wit? a ragout of truffles, morels, mushrooms, veal, sweet bread, &lc. Lobsters. When you have half boiled your lobster take it out of the water, rub it well ^^ ith butter, and lay it before the fire : continue basting it with butter till it has a fine froth, and the shells look of a dark bro^^•Tl. Then put it into your dish, and serve it up with plain melted butter ii a sauce-boat. CHAPTER IV. B A K I JV" G. SECT. I. BUTCHER'S MEAT. ""l HE only method to be observed previous to this mode of cookery, is to have the pans, or wliatever vessels you send your provisions in to the oven, per- fectly clean, so that the care you have taken in pre- paring the article may not be injured from neglect in cieanliness. Rump of Beef a-la-Braise. Cut out the bone quite clean, then beat the flesh well with a rolling-pin, and lard it with a piece of bacon cut out of the back. Season your bacon with pepper, salt, and cloves, and lard across the meat, that it may cut handsomer. Season the meat with pepper, salt, and cloves ; put it into an earthen pot with all tl e broken bones, half a pound of butter, some bay leaves, whole pepper, one or two shalots, and some sweet herbs. Let the top of the pan be covered quite close, then put it into the oven, and it will be done in about six liours. When enough, skim oir tlie fat clean, put the meat into a dish, and serve it up with a good ragout of mushrooms, truffles, force- meat-balls, and yelks of eggs. Let the gravy ^vhich comes from the beef be added, nicely seasoned, to those ingredients. Calf's Head. When you have properly cleansed the head, put it into a large earthen dish, or pan, and rub the inside ■svith butter. Put some long iron skewers across the top of the dish, and lay the head on them. Grate some nutmeg all over the head, with a few sweet herbs shred small, s>>me crumbs of bread, and a little lemon-peel cut fuie. Then flour it all over, stick No 3 1 GG BAKING MEAT. pieces of butter in the eyes, and on different parts of the head, and send it to the oven. You may throw a Httlc pepper and salt over it, and put itito the dish a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a blade of mace, some Avhole pepper, two cloves, and a pint of water, and boil the brains a\ ith some sage. When the head is enough, lay it on a dish, and put it before the tire to keep warm ; tlien stir all together in the dish, and put it into a gauccpan, and when it is quite hot strain it off, and pour it into the saucepan again. Put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, the sage and brains chopped fine, a spoonful of catsup, and two of red wine. Boil them well together, pour the whole over the head in a dish, and send it to table. Pigs. Lay your pig into a dish well buttered, flour it all over, rub some butter on the pig, and send it to the oven. When you think it is enough, take it out, rub it over with a buttered cloth, and put it into the oven again till it is dry ; then take it out, lay it in a dish, and cut it up. Skim oft' the fat from the dish it was baked in, and some good gravy will remain at the bottom. Put this to a little veal gravy, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and boil it iip Avitli the brains ; then pour it into a dish, and mix it well with the sage that comes out of the belly of the pig. Serve it up hot to table with apple-sauce and mustard. A Bullock's or Calfs Heart. Take some crumbs of bread, chopped suet, (or a bit of butter,) parsley chopped, sweet mar jorum, le- mon-peel grated, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, with the yolk of an eg^ ; mix these aU well together, stulf the heart with it, and send it to the oven. When done, serve it up with gra\7^, melted butter, and currant • jelly in boats. The same methods are to be used whether you bake or roast it; but if care is taken, bailing it is the best Avay, as it will be more regularly done than it can be by roasting. BAKING FISH. 67 SECT. II. BAKING FISH. Cod's Head. When it is thoroughly cleanseii and washed, .ay II a the dish, Avhich you must fii'st rub round with bittter. Put in a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, three or four blades of mace, some black and white pepper, a nutmeg bruised, a little lemon- peel, a piece of horse-radish, and a quart of water. Dust the head with flour, grate a little nutmeg over it, stick bits of butter on various parts, and sprinkle raspings all over it, and send it to the oven. When done, take the head out of the dish, and put it into that it is to be served up in. Set the dish over boil- ing water, and cover it close to prevent its getting cold. In the mean time, as expeditiously as you can, pour all tlie liquor out of the dish in which it was baked into a saucepan, and let it boil three or four minutes : then strain it, and put to it a gill of red wine, two spoonsful of catsap, a pint of shrimps, half a pint of oysters, a spoonfid of mushroom pickle, and a quartern of butter rolled in flour. Stu* all ^vell to- gether, and let it boil till it is thick ; then strain it, and pour it into the dish. Have ready some toasted bread cut tlu-ee corner ways, and fi'ied crisp. Stick some pieces of toast about the head and mouth, and lay the remainder round the head. Garnish your dish with crisped parsley, lemon notched, and scraped horse-radish. This method is equally good for roastmg. Salmon Take a piece of salmon, of five or six pounds weight, (or larger according to your company,) and cut it into slices about an inch thick, after which make a forcemeat thus : Take some of the flesh of the salmon, and the same quantity of the meat of an eel. 68 BAKING with a few miishrooiris. Season it w itli pepper, salt, nutmeg, and cloves, and beat all together till it is very fine. Jioil the crumb of a roll in milk, and beat it iij) with four eggs till it is thick ; then let it cool, add four more raw eggs to it, and mix the whole well to- gether. Take the skin from the salmon, and lay tlie slices ii: a dish. Cover every slice Avith the forcemeat, pour some melted butter over them, with a few crimibs of bread, and place oysters round the dish. Put it into the oven, and when it is of a fme brown, pour over a little melted butter with some red wine boiled in it, and the juice of a lemon, and serve it up hot to table Carp. Take a brace of carp, and having gi'eased the pan, •n which they are to be baked, w ith butter, put them tnto it. Let it be of such a size as will hold them at full length, otherwise they w ill be apt to break. When you have put them into the pan, season them with a little black and white pepper, mace, cloves, nutmeg, a bunch of sw^eet herbs, an onion, and an anchovy : then pour in a bottle of Avhite wine, cover them close, and put them into the oven. If of a large size they will take an horn- baking ; but if small, a less time will do. When enough, take them out of the pan, and lay them in a dish. Set it over boiling water to keep it hot, and cover it close. Pour all the liquor in which they Avere baked into a saucepan ; let it boil a minute or tAvo, strain it, and add half i pound of butter roll- ed in flour. Keep stirring it all tlie time it is boiling ; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and put in a pro- per quantity of salt, observing to skim all the fat olT the liquor. Pour the sauce ovtr the fish, lay the roes round them, and garnish vdi\\ lemon. Eels and LaQiij^reys. Cut off' their heads, gut them, and take out the blood from the bone as clean as possible. ]\Iake a forcemeat of shrimps or oysters chopped small, half a penny loaf crumbled, a little lemon-peel shred fine, the FISH. 69 yolks of two eggs, and a little salt, pepper, and nut- meg. Put this into the bellies of the fish, sew them up, and turn them round on the dish. Put flour and butter over them, pour a little water into the disli, and bake them in a moderate oven. When done, take tiie gravy from under them, and skim off the fat, strain it through a hair sieve, and add one tea-spoon- ful of lemon-pickle, two of browning, a large spoonful of walnut catsup, a glass of white wine, an anchovy, and a slice of lemon. Let it boil ten minutes, and thicken it with butter and flour. Garnish with lemon and crisped parsley. Herrings Scale, wasli, and dry them well in a cloth, then lay them on a board, and take a little black pepper, a few cloves, and plenty of salt ; mix them together, and rub the iish all over with it. Lay them straight in a pot, cover them over v.'ith vinegar, put in a few bay- leaves, tie a strong paper over the top, and bake them in a moderate oven. They may be eat either hot or cold ; and if you use the best vinegar, they will keep good for two or three months. Sjn^ats may be done in the same manner, and either of them will furnish an occasional and pleasing relish. Tiwbot. Take a dish about the size of the turbot, rub but- ler thick all over it, throw on a little salt, a little bea- ten pepper, half a large nutmeg, and some parsley cliopped fine. Pour in a pint of Avhite wine, cut oil the head and tail, and lay the turbot in the dish: pour another pint of white wine all over, gi'ate the other half of the nutmeg over it, a httle pepper, some salt, and chopped parsley. Lay a piece of butter here and there all over, then strew it with flour and crumbs ol bread, Being thus prepared, send it to the oven, and let it be done of a line brown colour. When you take it out, or have it home, put the turbot into the dish in which you mean to serve it up, then stir the sauce in 70 BAKING FISH. the disli it was baked in, pour it into a saucepan, shake in a little flour, let it boil, and then stir in a piece of butter with two spoonsful of catsup. When the whole boils, pour it into basins, and serve it up \vith the iish. Garnish your dish with lemons ; and you may add what other sauce you fancy, as shrimps, an- chovies, mushrooms, &c. Pike, with forcemeat. Prepare your pike thus : — Gut it, without cut- ting it open, and take care it is well cleaned. Cut a notch down the back from head to tail, turn it round, and fasten the tail in the mouth. Make your force- meat thus : Take the udder of a leg of veal, or the kidney part of a loin of lamb, some fat bacon cut in dice, the spawn or melt of the fish, some gi'een onions, a mushroom or tw o, or truffles, parsley and salt, and a little nutmeg and pepper : add a bit of butter to fry it : chop it all well, with the crumb of a French roll soaked in cream or milk. Pound all together in a large mortar, with three or four eggs ; try if it is sea- soned to your mind, fill the belly of your fish with it, close up that part which was cut in the back, and make it nice and even. Then take two or three eggs, beat them up, daub the fish well over with it, and strew on some crumbs of bread. Put it in a gentle oven, and proportion the time according to the size of your fish. When done use the following sauce : take two or three ladles of good gravy, and add to it three large spoons- fiil of whole capers, some parsley chopped fine, the juice of two lemons, and a little minced shalot. Pour this into a boat or basin, and serve it up hot with your fish. Garnish with fried parsley. A piper may be baked the same as the pike. Mackarcl. Cut their heads off, w*ash and dry them m a cloth, cut them open, rub the bone with a little bay-salt, beat fine : take some mace, black and white pepper, and a few cloves, all beat fine ; lay them m a long BROILING MEAT, c^'C. 7 pan, and between evevj layer offish put two or three bay leav'cs, and cover them with vinegar. Tie writing paper over tliem first, and then thick brown papei* doviblcd. Tliey mnst be put into a very slo\v oven, and will take a long time doing. When they are enough, uncover them, and let them stand till they are cold, then pour away all the vinegar they are boiled in, cover them with some more vinegar, and put in an onion stuck with cloves. Send them to a vei-y slow oven again, and let them stand two hours. When completely done, put them aside, and they will keep good a considerable time. When you take them out, let it be with a slice, as your hands will be apt to break and spoil them. They make a most excellent occasional repast. CHAPTER V BROILIKG. IN this mode of cooking, three things are to be prin cipally observed. First, that your gridiron is the roughly clean, and your fire quite clear. Secondly, that yon turn your meat quick and often Avhile broiling, as it will be a means of preserving the juices. And, tliii dly, to have your dish placed on a chafing-dish of hot coals, that by putting one piece after another into it as they are done, the whole may be taken quite hot to table. SECT. I. BUTCHER'S MEAT and POULTRY. Beef Steaks. Let your steaks be cut oif the rump of beef about half an inch thick ; take care to have yom' fire clear, and rub your gridiron well with beef suet. When it is hot lay on your steaks : let them broil till the side 72 BROILING Dcxt the fire is brown ; then turn them, and when the otlier side is brown, lay them on a hot dish, with a shce of Imtter between each steak : sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and let them stand two or three minntes ; in the mean time slice a shalot as thin ns possible into a spoonful of ^^ater ; lay on your steaks again, and keep turning them till they are enough ; tl.'.en put them on your dish, pour the shalot and water over them, and send them to ta])le. Add for vSauce horse- radish and pickles. Garnish with scraped horse-radish. Mutton Steaks. Cut your steaks about half an inch thick, and if it be the loin, take off the skhi with a part of the fat. When your gridiron is hot, rub it with fresh suet, lay on your steaks, and keep turning them as quick as possible : if you do not take great care, the fat that drops from them into the fire will smoke and spoil them: but this may be in a great measure prevented, by placing your gTidiron on a slant. Wlien enough put them into a hot dish, rub them w ell with butter, slice a shalot very thin into a spoonful of water, and pour it on them, with a spoonful of catsup. Serve them up hot, with scraped hoi-se-radish and pickles. Pork Chops. In broiling these the same rules are to be observed as those given for mutton chops, except Avith this dif- ference, that they require more doing. When they are enough, put a little good gravy to them : and in order to give them an agreeaWe flavour, strew o\ er a little sage shred very fine. The only sauce is mustard. Ox Palates. Prepare your palates for broiling thus : having peeled them, put into a stew-pan a little butter rolled in flour, salt, and pepper, two shalots, a clove of garlic, two cloATs, parsley, a laurel leaf, thyme, and as mucli milk as wiil simmer yom- palates till tender. When MEAT, ^C. /3 this is done, take them out, and rub over them the yolks of eggs with bread crnmls ; then put them on your gridiron, broil them slowly, and when enough .serve them up with sharp sauce. Chickens. Split your chickens down the back, season them with pepper and salt, and lay them on the gridiron over a clear fire, and at a great distance. Let the ins ides continue next the fire till they are nearly lialf done ; then tiu*n them, taking care that the flesh)* sides do not burn, and let them broil till they are of a fine brown. Have ready good gravy sauce, with some muslurooms, and garnish them with lemon and the livers broiled ; the gizzards cut, slashed, and broil- ed, with pepper and salt. Or you may make the fol- lowing sauce : take a handful of sorrel, and dip it in boiling water ; then drain it, and have ready half a pint of good gravy ; a shalot shred small, and some parsley boiled very green ; thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flom*, and add a glass of red wine ; then lay your sorrel in heaps round the chickens, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with sliced lemon. Pigeons. Pigeons may be broiled either whole or sht, and must be done very slowly over a clear fire. If you broil thenc whole, take some parsley shred fine, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, with a little pepper and salt, and put into their bellies, tying both ends with a bit of coarse thread. If you spht them, season the inside with pepper and salt ; and when done, serve them up with parsley and butter pom-ed over them. They will be quicker done by being slit : but the best method is to broil them whole. No. 4. K 74 BROILING SECT. IT. BROILING FISH. Fresh Salmon. Cut some slices from a fresh salmon, ard wipe them clenn and dry ; then melt some butter smooth and fine, \\ till a little flour and basket salt. Put the pieces ol saiJTioii into it, and roll them about, that they may be covered all over with butter. Then lay them on a nice clean gi'idiron, and broil them over a clear but sIoav fire. While the salmon is broiling make your sauce thus : take two anchovies, wash, bone, and cut them into small pieces, and cut a leek into three or four long pieces. Set on a saucepan with some butter and a little llour, put in the anchovies and leek, with some capers cut small, some pepper and salt, and a little nutmeg ; add to them some warm water, and two spoonsful of vinegar, shaking the saucepan till it boils ; and then keep it on the simmer till you are ready for it. When the salmon is done on one side, turn it on the other till it is quite enough ; then take the leek oat of the sauce, pour it into a dish, and lay the broiled salmon upon it. Garnish with lemons cut in quarters. Dried Salmon. Lay your dried salmon in soak for two or three hours, then lay it on the gridiron, and shake over it a little pepper. It will take but a short time, and when done serve it up with melted butter. Cod. Cttt the cod into slices about two inches thick, and dry and flour them well. Make a good clear fire, rub the gi'idiron with a piece of chalk, and set it high from the fire Then put in your slices of fish, turn them often, and let them brown till they are of a fine brown colour. Great care must be taken in turning them that liiey do not break. When done serve them up with lobster and slu-imp sauce. FISH. 75 Crimped Cod. Take a gallon of spring water, put it mto a sance- pan over the fire, and throw in a handful of salt. Boil t up several times, and keep it clean scummed. Whefl t is well cleared frrm the scum, take a middling sized tod, as fresh as possible, and put it into some fresh oump Avater. Let it lie a few minutes, and then cut t into slices about two inches thick. Tlu'ow these into the boiling brine, and let them boil briskly a few mi- nutes. Then take the slices out with great care that they may not break, and put them on a sieve to dra^^n. When they are well dried, flour them, and lay them at a distance upon a very good fii'e to broil. When enough serve them up with lobster, shrimp, or oyster sauce. Cod Sounds. Lay them a few minutes in hot water; then take them out, rub them well with salt, and take off the skin and black dirt, that they may look white. After this put them into water, and give them a boil, then take them out, flour them well, strew on some pepper and salt, and lay them on the gridiron. When enough lay them on your dish, and pour over them melted butter and mustard. Trout. When you have p^'operly cleansed your fish, and made it thoroughly dry with a cloth, tie it round with packtlTread from head to tail, in order to preserve its sha}3e entire. Then melt some butter, with a good deal of basket salt, and pour it all over the trout till it is perfectly covered : after lying in it a minute or two, take it out, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire, that it may do gradually. For sauce wash and bone an anchovy, and cut it very small ; chop a large spoon- ful of capers : melt some butter, Avith a little flour, pep- per, salt and nutmeg, and put it into the anchovy and capers, with half a spoonful of vinegar. When the trout is done lay it in a warm dish, pour your sauce boiling hot over it, and send it to table 7 76 BROILING Ma char el. Wash them clean, cut off tlieir heads, and take out the roes at the neck end. Boil the roes in a little water ; then bruise them with a spoon, beat up the yolk of an egg, with a little nutmeg ; a little lemon- peel cut fine, some thyme, parsley boiled and cliopped iine, a little salt and pepper, and a few crumbs of bread. Mix these well together, and put it into the bellies of the fish ; then flour them well, and broil them nicely. Let your sauce be melted butter, with a little catsup or walnut pickle. Mackarel a-la-Maitre d^ Hotel. Broil your Mackarel whole : the sauce is sweet herbs, chopped fine, in melted butter. Haddocks and Whitings. When you have gutted and clean washed them, dry them well in a cloth, and rub a little vinegar over them, which will prevent the skin from breaking. Having done this, dredge them well with flour, and before you put them on, rub the gridiron well with beef suet. Let your gridiron be very hot when you lay your fish on, otherwise they will stick to it, and the fish be broke in turning. While they are broiling, turn them two or three times, and when enough serve them up with plain melted butter, or shrimp sauce. Another, and indeed a very excellent metlif)d ol broiling these fish is thus : when you have cleaned and dried them as before-mentioned, put them into a tin oven, and set them before a quick fire. As soon as the skins begin to rise, take them from the fire, and having beat up an egg, rub it over them with a fea- ther. Sprinkle a few crumbs of bread over them, vige them well with flour, and rub your gridiron, . fien hot, with suet or butter. Lay on your fish, and Avhen you have turned them, rub over a little butter, and keep turning them till they are done, which will be known by their appearing of a nice F»*5H. 77 brown colour ; when done, serve them np either with shrimp sauce, or plain melted butter, and garnish with melted butter or red cabbage Eels. Having skinned, cleansed, and dried your eels, rub them with the yolk of an egg; strew over them some crumbs of bread, chopped parsley and sage, and season them ^vith pepper and salt. Baste them well with butter, and then put them on the gridiron over a clear fire. When done, serve them up with melted butter and parsley. jGe/6' pitch-cocked. Take a large eel, and scour it well Avith salt, to clean off the slime ; then slit it down the back, take out the bone, and cut it into tliree or four pieces. Take the yolk of an egg, and put it over the inside, sprinkle on crumbs of bread with some sweet herbs and pars- ley chopped very fine, a little nutmeg grated, and some pepper and salt mixed together. Then put it on a gridiron over a clear fire, broil it of a fine light brown, and when enough, serve it up with anchovy sauce, and parsley and butter. Garnish with raw parsley and horse-radish. Another method of pitch-cocking eels is, when you have gutted, cleansed, and properly dried them, sprin- kle them with pepper, salt, and a little dried sage, turn them backward and forward, and skewer them. Rub your gridiron with beef suet, broil them a good brown, aiitl when done, put them into your dish, and serve them up with plain melted butter for sauce. Garnish your dish with fried parsley. Herrings. Scale, gut, and cut off their heads; wash them clean, and dry them in a cloth ; then dust them well with flour, and broil them. Take the heads, mash them, and boil them in small beer or ale, with a httle wh:le pepper and onion. When it is boiled a qiiarter 78 FRYING of an hour strain 'jt off, thicken it with butter and flour, and a good deal of mustard. Lay the herrings, when done, in a plate or dish, pour the sauce into a boat, and serve them up. CHAPTER VI. F R ¥ I JV G SECT. I. BUTCHER'S MEAT. Venison. CUT your meat into slices, and make gravy of xie bones. Fry it of a nice brown, and when clone ,ake it up, and keep it hot before the fire. Then put some butter, well rolled in flour, into the pan^ and keep stirring it till it is quite thick and brown ; but be care- ful that it does not burn. Stir in half a pound of fine sugar beat to powder, put in the gravy made from the bones, and some red wine. Make it the thick- ness of a fine cream ; squeeze in tJie juice of a lemon, warm the venison in it, put it in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Veal Cutlets. Cut your veal into slices of a moderate thickness, dip them in the yolk of eggs beat up fine, and strew over them crumbs of bread, a few sweet herbs, some lemon- peel, and a little grated nutmeg. Then put them into your pan, and fry them with fresh butter. While they are frying, make a little good gi'avy, and when the meat is done, take it out, and lay it in a dish before the fire. Sliake a little flour into the pan, and stir it round ; put in the gravy, with the juice of a lemon, stir the whole well together, and pour it over the cut- lets. Garrish your dish with sliced lemon. MEAT, i^C. 7d JVeck or Loin of Lamb. Cut yunr lamb into chops, rub both sides \rith the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle over them some crumbs of bread, mixed with a little parsley, thyme, marjo- rum, winter savory, and a little lemon-peel, all chop- ped very fine. Fry them in batter till they are of a nice hght brown, then put them into your dish, and garnish with crisped parsley. Or you may dress them thus : Put your steaks into the pan with half a pint of ale, and a little seasoning, and cover them close. When enough take them out of the pan, lay them in a j)late before the fire to keep hot, and pour all out of the pan into a basin ; then put in half a pint of white wine, .1 few capers, the yolks of two eggs beat fine, with a lit- tle luitmeg and salt ; add to this the liquor they were fried in, and keep stirring it one w^ay all the time till it is thick ; then put in the chops, keep shaking the pan for a minute or two, lay the chops in the dish, and pom* the sauce over them. Garnish with crisped pars- ley and lemon. Sivectbreads. Cut them into long slices, beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over them with a feather. Make a seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated bread, strew this over them, and fry them in butter. Serve them up with melted butter and catsup, and garnish with crisped parsley, and very small thin sUces of toasted b.jcon. Calf's Brains. Cut the brains into four pieces, and soak them in broth and white wine, with two slices of lemon put into it, a little pepper and salt, thyme, lam-el, cloves, oarsley, and shalots. When they have remained in this about half an hoiu- take them out, and soak them in batter made of wliite wine, a little oil, and a little salt, ftnd fry them of a fine coloiir. You may likewise strev^ 80 MIYING over them crumbs of bread mixed ^vith the yolks of eggs. Serve them up with ])lain melted butter, and garnish with uarsley. Beef Steaks. Fry your steaks over a brisk fire, witl^ a little but- ter in the pan, and when they are of a nice light brown take them out, and put then, in a dish ])efore the fire. Then take half a pintof hct gi'avy, and put it into the pan with a little pepper and salt, and two or three shalots chopped fine. Boil them up in the {)an for two or i\v"*^. minutes, and then pour the whole over the steaks, vrarnish w ith scraped horse-radish. Ox Tongues. When you have boiled the tongue till it is ten- der, cut it into slices, and season them with a little nutmeg, cinnamon, and sugar. Tlien beat up the yolk of an egg with a little lemon-juice, and rub it over the slices with a feather. Make some butter boiling hot in the frying-pan, and then put in the slices. When done serve them up with melted butter, sugar, and white wine, all well mixed together. Ox Feet, or Coiv-Heel. Split the feet asunder, then take out ail the bones, and put the meat into the frying-pan witli some but- ter. When it has fried a few minutes, put in some mint and parsley shred small, a little salt and some beaten butter. Add likewise the yolks of two eggs beat fine, half a pint of gravy, the juice of a lemon or orange, and a little nutmeg. When the foot is done, take it out, put it into your dish, and pour the sauce over it. Tripe. Cut your tripe into pieces about three inches square, dip them in some small beer batter, or yolks of eggs, and have a good quantity of mutton or beef dripping in your pan. Fry it till it is of a nice light brown, then take it out, let it drain for a minute, put it Into your dish, and sqxxc it up. with plain melted but- ter in a boat, and mustard. MEAT, 4*C. 8 Sausages. The mode of frying sausages is so simple, and ge- nerally known, that it needs no description. How- ever, we shall notice one way of whidi the cook may not be informed. Take six apples, and slice four of them as thick as a crown piece : cut the other two into quarters, and take the cores clean out. Fry the slices with the sausages till they are of a nice light broAvn colour. When done put the sausages into the middle of the dish, and the apples ro^md them. Garnish with the apples quartered. Chickens. Cut your chickens into quarters, and rub them with the yolk of an eg^ ; then strew ok some crumbs of bread, with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and le- mon-peel, and chopped parsley. Fry them in butter and when done put them into your dish before the tire For sauce thicken some gravy with a little flour, and put into it a small quantity of chyan pepper, some mushroom powder or catsup, and a little lemon-juice. When it is properly heated, pom* it over the chickens, and serve it up. Artichoke Bottoms. Blanch them in water, then flour them, and fry them in fresh butter. Lay them in your dish, and pour melted butter over them for sauce. Or you may put a little red wine into the butter, and season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Celery. Take six or eight heads of fresh celery, and cut oft' the green tops with the outside stalks. Wash them well and have the roots clean. Have ready a pint of white wine, the yolks of three eggs beat fine, and a little salt and nutmeg. Mix all well together with flour, and make it into a batter, then dip every head into it, put them into a pan, and fry them with butter. When enougli lay them in your dish, and pour melted butter over them ^(s ' san 'c. 82 FRYING Potatoes Cut yo\ir potatoes into thin slices, and fry them in butter till they arc nicely brown. Then lay them in a dish or plate, and pour melted butter over them for sauce. Potatoes are lilvewise fried by the French in batter, and served up with powdered sugar thrown over them. You must fry all your batter in sweet oil or hog's lard. Any kind of fruit may be fried in the same manner, and served up as a corner dish in the second course. SECT. II. FRYING FISH. As a necessary prelude to our directions for frying fish, it may not be improper to make the few following general observations : When you fry any kind of fish, first dry them in a cloth, and then flour them. Put into your frying-pan plenty of dripping or hog's lard, and let it boil before you put it into a dish. When they are properly fried, lay them in a dish, or hair sieve, to drain. If you fry parsley, be sure to pick it very cautiously, wash it well, dip it into cold water, and throw it into a pan of boiling fat. This will make it very crisp, and of a fine green, provided you do not let it remain too long in the pan ; but this you may prevent by its appearance while doing. Turhot. IIavino properly cleansed your fish (which in this mode of dressing must be small) and thoroughly dried it, strew on some flour, and put it into your pan, with a sufficient quantity of hot lai'd to cover it. When it is firied nice and brown, take it carefully out, and tho- rouglily drain the fat from it. In the meantime clean the pan, put into it as much claret and white wine as will nearly cover the fish, with an anchovy, salt, nut- meg, and a little ginger. Put in the trn-bot, and let it remain in the liquor till it is half wasted ; then PISH. 83 take it out, and put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a minced lemon. Let them simmer together till of a proper thickness, then rub a hot dish with a piece of shalot, lay the turbot in the dish, pour over the sauce, and ser^'e it up. You may likewise add plain melted buttei in a basin. Carp. After having cleansed your fish, lay them in a cloth to dry, then flour them, put them into the pan, and fry them of a light brown. Take some crusts of bread, cut them three corner ways, and fiy them v\ ith the roes of the fish. When your fish are nicely fried , lay them on a coarse cloth to drain, and prepare an- chovy sauce with the juice of a lemon. Lay yom* carp in the dish, with the roes on each side, and gar- nish with the fried crust, and slices of lemon. Tench. Split the fish along the backs, and raise the flesh from the bone : then cut the skiii across at the head and tail, strip it clean ofi", and take out the bone. Having thus prepared them for frying, take one of them, and mince the flesh very small, with mush- rooms, chives, and parsley chopped fine ; a little salt, pepper, beaten mace, nutmeg, and a few savory herbs. Mix these well together, then pound them in a mor- tar and crumbs of bread soaked in cream, the yolks of three or four eggs, and a piece of butter; and with this composition stuff" your fish. Put clarified butter into your pan, set it over the fire, and when it is hot strew some flour on your fish, and put them in one by one. When they have fried till they are of a nice brown colour, take them up, and lay them in a coarse cloth before the fire to keep hot. Then pour all the %t out of the pan, put in a quarter of a pound of but- ter, and shake in some flour. Keep it sirring with a spoon till the butter is a little brown, and then put in half a pint of white wine. Stir them together, and put in half a pint of boiling water, an onion shred witb cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two -i FUriffG hliulcs of mace. Cover tliese close, and let them stev\ as gently as you can for a quarter of an hour, then strain otf the liquor, and put them into the pan again, adding two spoonsful of catsup, an ounce of trulHes or morels boiled tender in half a pint of water, a few muvshrooms, and half a pint of oysters, washed cJean in their own liquor. When your sauce is properly heat- ed, and has a good flavour, put in your tench, and let them lay in it till they arc thoroughly hot ; then take them out, lay them in your dish, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish w itli sliced lemon. The same methods may be used in frying of carp. Soles. Take off the skin, rub the fish over with the yolk of an egg, and strew on some crimibs of bread. F17 them in hog's lard over a brisk fire, till they are of a fine light brown. Then take them up, drain them, put them into your dish, and serve them up with plain melted butter in a boat. Ganu'sh with green pickles. Smelts. Be careful to take away the gills, but leave in the roes. After you have washed them, dry them well in a cloth, then beat up an egg very fine, rub it over them with a feather, and strew on crumbs of bread. Fry them in hogs lard over a brisk fire, and put them in when the fat is boiling hot. When they are done of a fine brown, take them out, and drain the fat from them, and when you dish them up, put a basin with the bottom upwards, into the middle of your dish, and lay the tails of your fish on the side of it. Garnish with fried parsley. Eels. After having properly cleaned them, and taken off the heads, cut them into pieces, season them ^vith pepper and salt, strew on some flour, and fry them till they are of a fine brown colour. Drain them properly before you lay them in the dish. Serve them up with melted butter and the juice of a lemon squeezed into it. Garnish with crisped pavsley. FISH. 86 Lampreys. When you cut them open to clean them, be care- ful to save the blood, and wash them thorouglily clean in warm water. Fry them in clean dripping, and when nearly enough, put out the fat, put a httle wliite wine, and give the pan a shake round. Throw a lit- tle pepper, with some sweet herbs, a few capers, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and the blood you saved from the ish. Cover the pan close, and shake it often. When they are enough, take them out, strain the sauce, put it into the pan again, and give it a quick boil. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, stir all together, anc" when it is just upon the boil, pom* it over the fish, and serve it up. Garnish with sliced lemon. Mullets. Score the fish across the back, and dip them in irielted butter. Fry them in butter clarified, and when enough, lay them on a warm dish. Serve them up with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce. Herring's. First scrape off all the scales, then wasli them dry them well in a cloth, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in butter over a brisk fire, and when done, set their tails up one against another in the middle of tlie dish. Fry a large handful of parsley crisp, take it out before it loses its colour ; lay it round the fish, and serve them up with melted butter, parsley, and mustard. Oysters. The largest oysters you can get sliould be chosen for frying. Wiien you have properly cleaned and rin- sed tliem, strew over tliem a little grated nutmeg, a blade of mace pounded, a spoonful of flour, and a lit- tle salt. Dip your oysters singly into this, and fry them in hog"s lard till they are of a nice brown co- lour. Then take them out of the pan, pour them into your dish, and pour over them a little melted butter, •vith cru nbs of bread mixed. 8b CHAPTER VII. 8 T E W I JV G, SECT. I. BUrCHER'S MEAT. Fillet of Veal. VAKE the fillet of a co^^• calf, stuff it well under tn-e udder, and at the bone end quite through to the shank. Put it into the oven, with a pint of Avater under it, till it is of a fine brown ; then put it into a stew-pan, with three pints of gravy. Stew it till it is tender, and then put a few morels, truffles, a tea- spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large one of browning, one of catsup, and a little chyan pepper. Thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour. Take out your veal and put it into your dish, then strain the gravy, pour it over, and lay round forcemeat balls. Garnish with sliced lemon and pickles. Breast of Veal. Put a breast of veal into the stew-pan, with a lit- tle broth, a glass of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, a few mushrooms, two or three onions, with some pep- per and salt., Stew it over a gentle fire till it is ten- der ; and when done strain and scum the sauce. Gar- nish with forcemeat balls. Knuckle of Veal. Lay at the bottom of your saucepan four wooden skewers cross ways, then put in the veal, Avith two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, a piece of thyme, a small onion, a crust of bread, and two quarts of water. Cover it down close, make it boil, and then only let it simmer for two hours. When cnoiigh, take it up, put it into your iish, and strain tlie liquoi o\erit. Garnisli \\\i\\ Irnion. STEWING MEAT. 87 JVeck of Veal. Lard it with large ])ieces of bacon rolled in pepper and shalots and spices. Put it into your stew-pan with about three pints of broth, tw^o onions, a lai rel leaf, and a little brandy. Let it simmer gently till it is ten- der, then put it into your dish, take the scum clean oil the liquor, and then pour it on the meat. Calf's Head. After having properly cleaned the head, put it into cold water, and let it lie for an hour : then carefully take out the brains, the tongue, the eyes, and the bones. Then take a pound of veal, and a pound of beef suet, a very little thyme, a good deal of lemon-peel minced, a nutmeg grated, and two anchovies ; chop all very fine, then trrate two stale rolls, and mix ihe whole together with the yolks of four eggs ; save enough of this to make about twenty balls. Take half a pint of fresh mushrooms, clean peeled and washed, the yolks of six eggs, beat fine, half a pint of oysters clean washed, or pickled cockles ; mix these all together, after first stew- ing your oysters. Put the forcemeat into the head and close it, tie it tight with packthread, and put it into a deep stew-pan, with two quarts of gravy and a blade or two of mace. Cover it close, and let it stew two liours. In the meantime, beat up the brains with some lemon-peel cut fine, a little parsley chopped, half a nut- meg grated, and the yolk of an Q^g. Have some drip- ping boiling, and fry half the brains inhttle cakes ; fry all the forcemeat balls, and keep them l3oth hot by the fire. Take half an ounce of truffles and morels, then strain the gravy the head ^vas stewed in, and put the truflles and morels t it, with a few mushrooms. Boil all together, then it in the rest of the brains, stew them together for a minute or two, pom* the whole over the head, and lay the cakes of fried brains and force- meat balls round it. Garnish with lemons. For a small family, the half of a head may be done equally fme, only propeilv proportionina: the quantity of Uio 8 88 STEWING respective articles. — A lamb's head must be done in the very same manner. Calf's Liver. Lard the liver, and put it into a stew-pan, with some salt, wliole pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a blade of mace. Let it stew till tender, then take it up, and cover it to keep hot. Strain the liquor it was stewed in, scum otlall the fat, thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in floin*, and pour it over the liver. Rump of Beef . Half roast your beef, then put it into a stew-pan, with two quarts of water, and one of red wine, two or three blades of mace, a shalot, one spoonful of lemon- pickl^ two of wahiut catsup, and the same of brown- ing. Put in chyan pepper and salt to your taste. Cover it close, and let it stew over a gentle lh*e for t^vo hom's ; then take up your beef, and lay it in a deep dish, scum jff the fat, and strain the gravy ; put in an oimce of morels, and half a pint of mushrooms ; thicken your gravy, and pour it over the beef. Garnish with force- meat balls and horse-radish. Beef Steaks. Pepper and salt your steaks, and lay them in a stew-pan. Put in half a pint of water, a blade or two of mace, an anchovy, a small bunch of herbs, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a glass of white wine, and an onion. Cover the whole close, and let it stew till the steaks are tender ; then take them out, strew some flour over them, fry them in fresh butter till they are of a nice brown, and then pour oft" all the fat. Strain the sauce they were stewed in, pour it into the pan, and toss it up all together ti ^ the sauce is quite hot and thick. Then lay your eaks in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with horse-radish and pickles. Beef Gobbets. Take any piece of beef, except the leg, cut it into small pieces, and put them into a stew-pan. Covei MEAT. 89 them with water, and when they have stewed an houi', put in a Httle mace, cloves, and wiiole pepper, tied loosely in a muslin rag, with some celery cut small. Then add some salt, turnips and carrots pared and ci t in slices, a little parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large crust of bread, and an ounce either of barley or rice Cover it close, and let it stew till it is tender. Ther take out the herbs, spices, and bread, and have ready a French roll nicely toasted and cut into four parts. Put these into your dish, pour in the meat and sauce, and send it hot to table. JVeaVs Tongue. Put the tongue into your stew-pan with a sufficient quantity of w^ater to cover it. When it has stewed about two hours, take it out, peel it, and put it in again, with a pint of strong gravy, half a pint of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt some mace, cloves, and wdiole pepper, tied in a muslin rag ; add likewise a spoonful of capers chopped fine, some turnips and carrots sliced, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let the whole stew together very gently for two hours . then take out the spice and sweet herbs, put the tongue into your dish, strain the sauce, pour it over, and serve it up. To dress Ox Palates. Having cleansed and boiled your palates, take off the skin, and pick out all that part that is black, and cut them in bits : turn some onions a few times over the fire with a bit of butter, and when it is half done put it in the palates. Moisten your ragout with some good broth, and a little cullis ; season it to your taste, and add a bunch of sweet herbs : when it is well skim- med, and the sauce of a proper consistence, put in a httle mustard, and serve it up. Ox Palates forced. Ste w^ your palates whole with forcemeat rolled up ; when done, cut them in half: sevve them up with a good sauce of trullles. 9U STEWIIfG To marinade Ox Palates. Ww iNG boiled some palates in water tiil tender, cut them in pieces of what shape you please, and steep tlieni two or three hours in some vinegar, with salt, pippcr, a clove of garlic, a little flour and butter, a laurel leaf, and three cloves. The whole marinade must be made hike- warm, then take them out, dry, flour and fry them, and serve them up with fried parsley. SECT. II. STEWING POULTRY, &c. Turkey en Pain. Take a fine turkey, bone it, and put into the car- case a ragout composed of large livers, mushrooms, and streaked bacon, all cut in small dice, and mingled with salt, fine spices, and shred parsley and onions Sew the turkey up, but take care to shape it nicely ; then put a thin slice of bacon upon the breast, and wrap it in a cloth. Stew it in a pot, but not too large a one, with good broth, a glass of white wine, and a ]3unch of sweet herbs ; when it is done, strain the liquor the turkey w^as done in into a stew-pan, after having taken off" the fat ; reduce it to a sauce, adding a spoonful of cuUis ; then unwrap your turkey, take off the bacon, dry away the grease, and serve it up with the sauce. Fowls. Pursue the same method, at first, in stewing fowls as you do turkeys ; that is to say, put skewers cross- ways at the Ijottom of your stew-pan. When you have laid in your fowl, put to it a quart of gravy, a bunch of celery clean washed and cut very small, with two or three blades of mace. Let it stew gently till the liquor is reduced to a quantity only suflicient for sauce ; then add a largr '>iece of butter rolled in flour, POULTRY <^C. Si two spoonsful of red wine, the same quantity of catsup, witli pepper and salt to season it. Lay your fowl in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and send it to table Chickens. Half boil them in as much water as will just cover lliem, then take them out, cut them up, and take out the breast bones. Put them into your stew-pan with the liquor, and add a blade of mace and a little salt. Cover the pan close, and set it over a slow fire. Let it stew till the chickens are enough, then put the whole into your dish, and serve it to table. Goose Giblets. Put them into scalding water, by which you will be enabled to make them properly clean. When this is done, cut the neck into four pieces, the pinions in two, and slice the gizzard. Put them into your stew-pan with two quarts of water, or, if you have it, mutton broth, with some sweet herbs, an anchovy, a few peppercorns, three or four cloves, a spoonful of catsup, and an onion. When the giblets are tender, put in a spoonful of good cream, thicken it with flour and butter, then pour the whole into a soup-dish, with sippets of bread at the bottom, and serve it up. Ducks. Take two ducks, properly picked and drawn, dust them with flour, and set them before tlie fire to brown. Tlien put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of Ava- ter, a pint of red wine, a snoonful of walnut catsup, the same of browning, an anchovy, half a lemon, a clove of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs, with chyan pepper and salt to your taste. Let them stew gently for naif an hour, or till you find them tender ; then lay them on a dish, and keep them hot. Skim off" the fat from the liquor in which they were stewed, strain it through .a hair sieve, add to it a few morels and truf- fles, boil it quick till reduced to little more than hall" a pint, then pour it oa er your ducks, and serv^e them ui>- 92 STEWING Duck ivith green Peas. Put into yonr stew-pan a piece of fresh butter, and set it on the lire ; then put in yonr duck, and turn it in the pan two or three minutes : take out the fat, but let the duck remain. Put to it a pint of good gravy, a pint of peas, two lettuces cut small, a bunch of sweet- herbs, and a little pepper and salt. Cover them close, and let them stew for half an hour, now and then sha- king the pan. When they are just done, grate in a little nutmeg, A\ith a small quantity of beaten mace, and thicken it either with a piece of butter rolled hi flour, or the yolk of an egg beat up with two or three spoonsful of cream. Shake it all together for two or three minutes, then take out the sweet herbs, lay the duck in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish with boiled mint chopped very fine. Pigeons. Put into the bodies of your pigeons a seasoning made with pepper and salt, a few cloves and mace, some sweet herbs, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Tie up the necks and vents, and half roast them. Then put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of good gravy, a little white wine, a few peppercorns, three or four blades of mace, a bit of lemon, a bunch ot SAveet herbs, and a small onion. Stew them gently till they are enough ; then take the pigeons out, and strain the liquor through a sieve : scum it and thicken it in your stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour ; then put in the pigeons with some pickled mushrooms; stew it about five minutes; put the pigeons into a dish, and pour the sauce over them. Pheasants. Put into yonr stew-pan with the pheasant as much veal broth as will cover it, and let it stew till there is just enough liquor left for sauce. Then scum it, and put in artichoke bottoms parboiled, a little beaten mace, a glass of wine, and some pepper and salt. If it is not sufficiently svdistantial, thicken it with a piec^ POULTRY, <^C. dS of butter rolled in flour, and squeeze m a little lemon- juice. Then take up the pheasant, pour the sauce over it, and put forcemeat balls into the dish. Partridges. Truss your partridges in the same manner as for roasting, stuff the craws, and lard them down each side of the breast ; then roll a himp of butter in pep- per, and salt, and beaten mace, and put into the bellies, Sew up the vents, and then put them into a stew-pan Avith a quart of good gravy, a spoonful of Madeira wine, the same of catsup, a tea-spoonful of lemon- pickle, half the quantity of muslu'oom powder, one an- chovy, half a lemon, and a sprig of sweet marjorum. Cover the pan close, and stew them half an hoiu- • then take them out and thicken the gi'avy. Boil it a little, and pour it over the partridges, and lay round them artichoke bottoms boiled and cut in quarters, and the yolks of four hard eggs. Woodcocks must be stcAved in the same manner. Cucumbers. Pare twelve middle sized cucumbers, slice them about the thickness of half a crown, and lay them in a coarse cloth to drain. When quite dry, flour them, and fry them in fresh butter till they are brown ; tlien take them out with an egg-slice, and lay them on a plate before the fire. Take a large cucumber, cut a long piece out of the side, and scoop out all the pulp. Have ready some onions nicely fried, fill the cucumber \vith these, and season with pepper and salt ; then put in the piece that was cut out, and tie it round with packthread. Flour it, and fry it till it is broA'STi ; then take it out of the pan, and keep it hot. Let the pan remain on the fire, and v/hile you are putting in a lit- tle flour with one hand, keep stirring it with the other. — When it is thick, put in two or three spoonsful of water, half a pint of white or red wine, and two spoons- ful of catsup. Stir them together, and add three blades of mace, four clo^ es, half a nutmeg grated, and a lit- 94 STEWIIfG tie pepper and salt, all beat fine together. Stir it into the saucepan, and then throw in your cucumbers. Let them stew for two or three minutes, then lay the whole cucumber in the middle of yoin- dish, having first un- tied it, the rest round it, and pour the sauce all over. Garnish the disli witli fried onions. Peas and Lettuce. Pui a quart of green peas, and two large lettuces washed clean, and cut small across, into a stew-pan, w^ith a quart of gravy, and stew them till they are ten- der. Put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and sea- son with pepper and salt. When of a proper thick- ness, dish them np, .and send them to table. Instead of butter you may thicken them with the yolks of four eggs, and if you put two or three thin rashers of lean ham at the bottom of the stew-pan, it will give the whole a very fine flavour. SECT. III. STEWING FISH. Carp and Tench. Having scaled and gutted your fish, wash them thoroughly clean, dry them with a cloth. Then put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of water, the same quantity of red wine, a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, another of browning, a little mushroom-powder, chy- an pepper, a large onion stuck with cloves, and a stick of horse-radish. (If carp, add tlie blood, which you must be careful to save when yon kill them.) Cover yom- pan close to keep in the steam ; and let them stew gently over a slow fire till your gravy is re- duced to just enongh to cover them. Then take the fish out, and put them into the dish you intend for ta- ble. Set the gravy again on tlic fire, and thicken it with a large lump of butter rolled in flour : boil it a lit- tle, and then strain it over your fish. Garnish with FISH. 96 pickled mushrooms, scraped horse-radish, and the roes of the fish, some of them fried and cut into small pieces, and the rest boiled. Just before yon send it up, squeeze into the sauce the juice of a lemon. Bcu^hel. Take a large Ivirbel, scale, gut, and wash it in vine- gar and salt, and afterwards in clear water. Then put it into a stew-pan, with a sufficiency of eel broth to cover it, and add some cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a bit of cinnamon. Let them stew gently till the fish is done, then take it out, tliicken the sauce with butter and flour, peur it over the fish, and serve it up. Small Barbel. The small barbel is stewed like a carp, and when large may be done on the gridiron, served up with a white sauce. Trout. Make a stuffing with grated bread, a piece of but' ter, chopped parsley, lemon-peel grated, pepper, salt, nutmeg, savory herbs, and the yolk of an e^g, all well mixed together. Fill the belly of your fish with this, and then put it into a stew-pan with a quart of good boiled gravy, half a pint of Madeira wine, an onion, a little whole pepper, a few cloves, and a piece of lemon- peel. Stew it very gently over a slow fire, and when done* take out the fish, and add to the sauce a little flour mixed in some cream, a little catsup, and the juice of a lemon. Let it just boil up, then strain it over your fish, and serve it up. Pike. Make ..browning with butter and flour, and put it into your stew-pan with a pint of red wine, a fag- got, four cloves, a dozen of small onions half boiled, with some pepper and salt. Cut your pike into pieces, put it in, and let it stew very gently. When done, take it out, and add to the sauce two anchovies and a spoonful of capers chopped fine. Boil it for a minute or two, and then pour it over the fish. Garnish with bread nicely fried, and cut three-corner ways. 96 6TEW1NG Jl Fricandcau of Pike. Cut a pike into slices, according to its size ; alter ihiviiiir scaled, gutted, and washed it, lard all the upper j)art with bacon cut small, and jMit it into a stew-])an with a glass ol" white wine, some good broth, a bunch of sweet herbs, and some fillet of veal cut into small dice : w hen it is stewed, and the sauce strained oil, gliize it like other fricandeaus. It may also be frica- seed like chickens (as a side dish); or you may stew it, and serve it up w ith a white sauce. Cod. Cut some slices of cod, as for boiling, and season them with grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sweet herbs. Put them into a stew-pan with half a pint of white wine and a qyarter of a pint of water. Cover (hem close, and let them simmer for five or six minutes. Then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and add a few^ oysters with their liquor strained, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a blade or two of mace. Let them stew very gently, and frequently shake the pan to pre- vent its burning. When the fish is done, take out the onion and sweet herbs, lay the cod in a warm dish, and strain the sauce over it. Soles, Plaice, and Flounders. The same methods must be taken for stewing either of these kinds of fish. Half fry them in butter, then take them out of the pan, and put to the butter a quart of water, two ancliovies, and an onion sliced. When they have boiled slowly for about a quarter of an hour, put your fish in again, and let them stew gently about twenty minutes ; then take out the fish, and thicken the sauce with butter and flom'. Give the whole a gentle boil, then strain it through a hair-sieve over the fish, and serve them up with oyster, cockle, or shrimp sauce. Lampreys and Eels. Having skinned, gutted, and thoroughly washed your fish, season them with salt, pepper, alittle lemon FISH. 97 peel shred fine, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. Put some tliin slices of butter into your stew-pan, and having rolled your fish round, put tliem in, with half a pint of good gravy, a gill of white wine, a bunch of marjorum, winter savory, thyme, and an onion shced. Let them stew over a gentle fire, and keep turning them till they are tender. Then take them out, and put an anchovy into the sauce. Thicken it with the yolk of an eg'^ beat very fine, or a piece of butter rolled in flour. When it boils, pom- it over the fish, and serve them to table. Prawns, Shrimps, and Cray-fish. Take about two quarts of either of these fish, and pick out the tails. Put the bodies into your stew-pan, with about a pint of white wine (or water with a spoon- fid of vinegar) and a blade of mace. Stew these a quarter of an hoiu', then stir them together, and strain them. Having done this, wash out your pan, and put into it the strained liquor and tails. Grate into it a small nutmeg, put in a little salt, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, and shake it all together. Cut a thin slice of bread round a quartern loaf, toast it brown on both sides, cut it into six pieces, lay it close together in the bottom of your dish, pour yom* fish and sauce hot over it, and send it hot to table. If cray- fish, garnish the dish with some of their biggest claws laid thick round. Oysters. _ Strain the liquor of your oysters, and put it into your saucepan with a little beaten mace, and thicken it with flour and butter. Boil this three or four mi- nutes, then toast a slice of bread, cut it in three-cor- nered pieces, and lay them round the dish into which yon intend to put the oysters. Then put into the pan a spoonful of cream with your oysters, shake them round, and let them stew till tliey are quite hot, but be careful they do not boil. Pour them into a deep plate or soup-dish, and serve them up. Most kinds of hell-fish may be stewed in the same manner. 93 HASHING Oysters scolloj id. AVasii tlicin tiioroiif^lily clean in tlieir own liquor, ?uul lliiMipiit them in(() your scollop sliclls ; strew over ♦hciu a few cruni])s of bread. Lay a slice of butter on the first you put in, then more oysters, and bread and butter successively till the s lell is full. Put them into a Dutch oven to brown, and serve them up hot in the v^helis. JMuscles. Wash them very clean in several waters, then put them into a stew-pan, and cover them close. Let them stew till the shells open, and then pick out the fish clean, one by one. Look under the tongue. to see if there be a crab, and if you find one, throw that muscle away. You will likewise find a little tough article under the tongue, which you must pick oif. Having tli'.is properly cleansed them, put them into a sauce- pan, and to a quart of muscles, put half a pint of tlie liquor strained through a sieve : add a few blades of mace, a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and let them stew gejitly. Lay some toasted bread in the dish, and when the muscles are done, pour them on it, and serve them up. CHAPTER VIII. HASIIT^TG AJVD MI^CIJVG. SECT. I. BUTCHER'S MEAT. Calfs Head. AS a whole calf's head is rather toy large for the consumption of most fann'lies at one time, and afl we mean to confine our receipts within such compass as may with equal convenience and pleasure suit all, so we shall here give directions for only hashing one-half ^ observinc: that should there be occasion for doing: the whole, it is on^y doubling the ingi'edients here given n>r a part. MEAT. 99 Wasii the heaa as clean as possible, and then boil it a quarter of an honr. When cold, cut the meat, as also tlie tongue, into thin broad slices, and put tliem into a stewing-pan, Avith a quart of good gravy. When it lias stewed three quarters of an hour, put in an an- chovy, a little beaten mace, chyan pepper, two spoons- ful of lemon-pickle, the same quantity of walnut cat- sup, half an ounce of truffles and morels, a slice or two of lemon, some sweet herbs, and a glass of white wine. Mix a quarter of a pound of butter with some flour, and put it in a few minutes before the meat is done. In the mean time put the brains into hot w ater, and beat them fine in a basin ; then add two eggs, a spoonful of flour, a bit of lemon-peel shred fine, and a little parsley, thyme, hnd sage chopped small. Beat them all well together, and strew in a little pepper and salt ; tlien drop them in little cakes into a pan with boiling lard ; fry them of a light brown, and lay them on a sieve to drain. Take your liash out of yom'pan with a fish slice, and lay it in your dish. Strain your gravy over it, and lay upon it a few mushrooms, force- meat balls, the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and the brain cakes. Garnish with sliced lemon and pickles. If tlie company is so large that there should be a ne- cessity for dressing the whole head, in order to make a pleasing variety, do the other half thus : When it is parboiled, hack it cross and cross with a knife, and grate some nutmeg all over it. Take the yolks of two eggs, a little salt and pepper, a fev/ sweet-herbs, some crumbs of bread, and a little lemon-peel chopped very fine. Strew^ this over the head, and then pnt it into a deep dish before a good fire. Baste it with butter, and keep the dish turning till all parts are equally brown. Tlien take it np, and lay it on your hash. Blanch the half of the tongue, and lay it on a soup plate ; boil the brains with a little sage and parsley, chop them fine, and mix them with some melted but- ter, and a spoonful of cream, make it quite hot, then pour it ov v: the tongue, and serve it np with the head. The mode of doing this half is usually termed ^•rilling 9 ^ iUO HASHING Veal Minced. First rii*; your veal into thin slices, and then into small bits. Put it into a sanropan with half a pint of pped parsley. Stir the whole well FISH 107 together, and let it simmer four or five minutes, then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, give the whole a good slialve, pour it into your dish, and serve it up hot. Gar- nish witli lemon. Tench are exceeding fine dressed in the same man- ner. Flounders. Take a sharp knife, and carefully raise the flesh on both sides from head to tail ; then take the bone clear out, and cut the flesh into pieces in the same manner as directed for soles, only let the pieces of each consist of six instead of eight. Dry your fish well, then sprin- kle them with salt, dredge them with flour, and fry tliem in a pan of hot beef dripping, so that the fish may be crisp. When so done, take them out of the pan, drain the fat from them, and set them before the fire to iveep warm. Then clean the pan, and put into it some minced oysters, with their liquor clean strained, some white wine, a little gr ited nutmeg, and three an- chovies. Stew these together a few minutes, and then put in your fish, with about a quarter of a pound of Iresli butter. Shake them well together, and, when quite liot, dish up your fish with the sauce, and serve them to table. Garnish v. ith yolks of eggs, boiled hard and minced, and sliced lemon. You may fricasee sal- mon, or any other firm fish, in the same manner. Skate or Thornback. These must be prepared for dressing in the same manner as directed for soles and flounders ; after which put them into your stew-pan. To one pound of the fish put a quarter of a pint of water, a little beaten mace, and grated nutmeg ' a small bunch of sweet herbs, and a little salt. Cover it close, and let it boil about a quarter of an hour. Then take out the sweet herbs, put in a quarter of a pint of good cream, a piece of butter, the sizic of a walnut, rolled in flour, and a glass of white wine. Keep shaking the pan all the time one way till yom' fricasee is thick and smooth ; then dish it up, and garnish with lemon. 108 FRICASEEING FISH, ^C. Oijsters. Put a little butter into your stew-pan, ^vitli u slicf of hum, a .'agjjot ot" p;u\sley and sweet herbs, an(f an onion stuck witli two cloves. Ijct them stew over a slow lire a lew minutes, and then add a liUle Uoin*, some good broth, and a piece of lemon-peel ; then put in your oysters, and let them simmer till they are tho- roughly hot. Thicken Avith the yolks of two eggs, a little cream, and a bit of good butter, take out the ham, faggot, onion, and lemon-peel, and add the squeeze of a lemon. Give the whole a shake in the pan, and when it simmers put it into your dish, and serve it up. Eggs. Boil your eggs hard, and take out some of the yolks whole ; then cut the rest in quarters, yolks and whites together. Set on some gravy with a little shred thyme and parsley in it, and let it boil about a minute. Then put in yom' eggs, with a little grated nutmeg, and shake them up with a piece of butter till it is of a proper thickness. Pour it into your dish, and serve it up. Eiggs ivith Onions and Mushrooms. When you have boiled the eggs hard take out the yolks whole, and cut the whites in shps, with some onions and mushrooms. Fry the onions and mush- rooms, throw in the whites, and turn them about a lit- tle. If there is any fat, pour it off. Flour the onions, &c. and put to them a little good gravy. Boil this up, then put in the yolks, and add a little pepper and salt. Let the wlijole simmer for about a minute, and then dish it up. Mushrooms. If your mushrooms are very small (such as are usually termed buttons) you must only wipe them with a flannel ; but if large peel them, vscrape the insides, and throw them into some salt and water. After ly- ing some time, take theni out and boil them in water B \(J001NG MEAT. lU9 With some salt in it ; and when they are tender, put in a httle shred parsley, an onion stuck with cloves, and a glass of wine. Shake them up with a good piece of butter rolled in flour, and put in three spoons- ful of thick creani, and a little nutmeg cut in pieces. When the whole has stood two or three minutes, take out the onion and nutmeg, then pour tlie mushrooms with their sauce into your dish, and serve tliem to table. Skirrits. Wash them thoroughly clean, and when you have boiled them till they are tender, skin the roots, and cut them into slices. Have ready a little cream, a piece of butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg beaten line, a little grated nutmeg, two or three spoonsful of white wine, with a very little salt, and stir all together. Put your roots into the dish, and pour the sauce over them. Artichoke Bottoms. These may be fricaseed either dried or pickled. If dried, lay them in w^arm water for three or four hours, shifting the water two or tlu'ee times. Having done this, put some cream into your saucepan, with a large piece of fresh butter, and stir them together one w^ay till the butter is melted. Then put in the arti- chokes, and when they are hot dish them up. CHAPTER X. RAGOOS. SECT. I. BUTCHER'S MEAT Breast of Veal. HALF roast it, then take out the hones, and ful the meat into a stew-pan, with a quart of veal gravy an ounce of morels, and the same quantity of truflleg 110 RAGOOING When the meat has stewed till it is tender, and just before yo i thicken the gravy, i)ut in a few oysters, some pickled mushrooms, and ])ickled cucumbers, al! cut in small stjuare j)ieces, and the yolks of fom- eggs . boiled hard. In the meantime, cut your sweetbread into pieces, and fry it of a light brown. When the veal is properly stewed, dish it up, and })our the gravy iiot upon it. Lay your sweetbread, morels, trullles, and eggs round it, and garnish with pickled barberries. In placing this dish on the table, if the company is ku-ge, and the pro\ isional entertainment designed to be set out ii\ taste, if for supper, it must be placed at the bottom of the table, but if for dinner, either on the top or on one side. It may likewise be stewed tender, and served with a w hite sauce of young peas or button mushrooms. JVeck of Veal. Cut your veal into steaks, and flatten them with a rolling-pin ; then season them ^vith salt, pepper, cloves, and nuice ; lard them with bacon strewed with lemon- peel and thyme, and dip them in the yolks of eggs. Having done this, make up a sheet of strong cap-paper at the four corners in the shape of a dripping-pan, but- ter it all over, as also the gridiron, and set over a char- coal hre, put in your meat, and let it do leisurely, keep turning it often, and baste it well in order to keep in the gravy. When it is enough have ready half a pint of strong gravy, season it high, and put into it mushrooms and pickles, forcemeat balls dipped in the yolks of eggs, oysters stewed and fried, to lay round and at the top of yovu* dish, and then serve it up. If for w hite ragoo, put in a gill of wliite wine, Avith the yolks of two eggs beat up with two or three spoonsful of cream ; but if a brown ragoo, put in red wine. Sweetbreads Brown. First scald your sweetbreads, and tlien cut them »uto Slices. Beat up the yolk of an e^y^ very fine, witb a little flour, poj)i)er, salt, and nutmeg." Dip yoursficcs of s\\ eetbread into this, aiul Wx them of a'nice lijiht MEAT. Ill brown. Then tliickeii a little good gravy with some tloiu' ; boil it well, and add catsnp or mushroom pow* der, a httle juice of a lemon, and chyan pepper. Put your sweetbreads into this ; and when they ha^'e stewed in it about five minutes, put the whole into yom- dish, and seve it up. Garnish with sliced lemon. Calfs Feet. After boiUng the feet, take out the bones, cut the meat into slices, and brown them in a frying-pan ; then put them into some good beef gravy, with morels, truf- fles, pickled muslu'oonis, and tlie yolks of four eggs boiled hard, some salt, and a little butter rolled in flour. Let tiiem stew together about five minutes, and then put all into your dish. Garnish with sliced lemon. Piof'^ Feet and Fars. First boil them till they are tender, then cut the ears into long narrow shoes, and split the feet do^vn the middle. Put into a stew-pan about half a pint of beef gravy, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large one of catsup, the same of browning, and a little salt. Thicken these with apiece of butter rolled in flour, and lei the feet and ears be yolked over with egg, then roll them in bread-crumbs and seasoning; let the feet be nicely bro\viied with a salamander, or fried; then let them boil gently, and, when enough, lay the feet in the middle of the dish, and the ears round them. Then strain your gravy, pour it over them, and garnish with ;;urled parsley. •^ Fore-quai^ter of House Lamb. Take oiTthe knuclde-bone, and then with a sharp knife cut ofl' the sldn. Lard it well with bacon, and fry it of a nice light brown. Then put it into a stew- pan, and just cover it over with mutton gravy, a bunch of sweet herbs, some pepper, salt, beaten mace, and a little whole pepper. Cover it close, and let it stew half an hour. Then pour out the liquor, and take care to keep the lamb hot. Strain off the gravy, and have ready half a pint of oysters fried ]>rown. Pour all the 10 112 RAGOOIPTG Hit from them, and put them into tlie ^avy, ^vith two spoonsful of red Avine, a Tew mushrooms, and a bit of l)utter rolled in Hour. Boil all together, with the juice of half a lemon. Lay the lamh in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and send it to table. Beef. Take any piece of beef that has got some fat to it, cut the meat clean from the bones, strew some llour over it, and fry it in a large stew-pan with butter till it is of a nice brown : then cover it in the pan with gravy made in the following manner : take about a pound of coarse beef, half a pound of veal cut small, a l)unch of sweet herbs, an onion, some whole black and white pepper, two or three blades of mace, four or five cloves, a piece of carrot, a slice of lean bacon steeped in vinegar, and a crust of bread toasted brown. Add to these a quart of wine, and let it boil till it is half wasted. In the meantime pour a quart of boiling wa- ter into the stew-pan, cover it close, and let it stew gently. As soon as the gravy is done, strain it, and pour it into the stew-pan with the beef Then take an ounce of truffles and morels cut small, with some fresh or dried mushrooms, and two spoonsful of catsup. Cover it close, and let it stew till the sauce is thick and rich. Have ready some artichoke bottoms quartered, and a few pickled mushrooms. Boil the whole toge- ther, and when your meat is tender, and the sauce rich, lay the meat in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve it hot to table. Mutton. Cut some thin slices, the right way of the grain, off a fine leg of mutton, and pare off all the skin and fat. Then put a piece of butter into your stew-pan, and shake some flour over it ; add to these t^^'o or three slices of lemon, with half an onion cut very small, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a blade of mace. Put your meat with these into the pan, stir them together for five or six minutes, and then p\it in half a pint of gra- vy, with an anchovy mimed small, and a piece of bu' POULTRY, t^C. 113 ter rolled in flour. Stir tlie whole well together, and when it has stewed about ten minutes, dish it up, and serve it *^o table. Garnish with pickles and sUced lemon. SECT. IT. liAGOOS o/POULTRY, VEGETABLES, c^c. A Goose. Skin your goose, dip it into boiling water, and break the breast-bone, so that it may lay quite flat. Season it with pepper and salt, and a little mace beaten tc powder ; lard it, and then flour it all over. Ilav ing done this, take about a pound of beef snet, and put into your stew-pan, and when melted, boiling hot, put in the goose. As soon as you find the goose brown all over, put in a quart of beef gravy boiling hot, a bunch of sweet herbs and a blade of mace, a few cloves, some whole pepper, two or tlu*ee small onions, and a bay- leaf Cover the pan quite close, and let it stew gen- tly over a slow fire. If the goose is small, it ^^ill be done in an hour, but if large, an hour and a half Make a ragoo for it in the following manner : Cut some tur- nips and carrots into small pieces, ^vith three or four onions sliced, boil all enough, put them, with half a pint of rich beef gravy, into a saucepan, with some pepper, salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them stew about a quarter of an hour. When the goose is done, take it out of the stew-pan, drain the liquor it was stewed in well from it, put it into a dish, and pour the ragoo over it. Livers of Poultrij. Take the liver of a turkey, and the livers of .six fowls, and put them into cold water. When they have laid in it some time, take them out, and put the fowls' avers into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint ofgi'avy, a spoonful of mushrooms either pickled or fresh, the So. 5. P il4. RAGOOING same quantity of catsup, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Seasoli tliom to your taste Avitli pepper and salt, and let tlieni stew gently about ten minutes. In the meantime, broil the turkey's liver nicely, and lay it in the middU', Avith tlie stewed livers round it. Pour the sauce over all, and garnish with lemon. Oysters. When the oysters are opened, save as much of the li;[uor as you can, and strain it tlirough a sieve; wash vour o}sters clean in warm water, and then make a batter as follows : Beat up the yolks of two eggs w ith half a nutmeg grated, cut a little lemon-peel small, a good deal of parsley, and add a spoonful of the juice of spinach, two spoonsful of cream or milk, and beat the whole up with (lour till it is a thick batter. Having prepared this, put a piece of fresh butter into a stew- pan, and when it is thorouglily hot, dip your oysters one by one into the batter, then roll them in crumbs of bread grated fine, and fry them quick and brown, Avhich done, take them out of the pan, and set them before the fire. Have ready a quart of chesnuts, shel- led and skinned, and fry them in the batter. When enough, take them up, pour the fat out of the pan, shake a little flour all over the pan, and rub a piece of butter all roand with a spoon. Tlien put in the oys- ter-liquor, three or four blades of mace, the chesnuts, and half a pint of white wine. Let them boil, and liave ready the yolks of two eggs beat up, with four spoonsful of cream. Stir all well together, and when it is thick and fine, lay the oysters in the dish, and pour the ragoo over them. Garnish with chesnuts and lemon. Muscles. Put your muscles into a saucepan, and let them stew till they are open. Tlien take them out of the shells, and save the liquor. Psit into your stew-pan a bit of butter, a few mushrooms chopped, a little pars- ley and grated lemon-peel. Stir these together, and then put in so-r c gi'avy, with pepper and salt ; thicken VEGETABLES. 115 it with a little llom',boil it np, put in the muscles with their liquor, and let them be hot ; then pom* them into your dish, and serve them np. There are some mus- cles of a pernicious quaUty, to know which, when you stew them, put a halt-crown into the saucepan, and if it is discoloured, tlie muscles are not wholesome. MushrooQiis. Take some large mushrooms, peel them, and cut the inside. Then broil them on a gridiron, and when the outside is brown, put them into a stew-pan, with a sufficient quantity of water to cover them. When they have stewed ten minutes, put to them a spoonful of white wine, the same of browning, and a little vine- gar. Thicken it with butter and flour, give it a gentle boil, and serve it up with sippets round the dish. Jirticliolze Bottoms. Soak them in warm water for two or three hours, changing the water. Then put them into the stew- pan with some good gravy, mushroom catsup or pow- der, and a httle chyan pepper and salt. When they boil, thicken with a little flour, put them into your dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve them np hot to table. Asparagus. Take an hundred of gi'ass, scrape them clean, and put them into cold water ; then cut them as far as is good and green, and take two heads of endive, with a young lettuce, and an onion, and cut them all very small. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into your stew-pan, and when it is melted, put in the grass, with the other articles. Shake them about, and when they have stewed ten minutes, season them with a little pepper and salt, strew in a little flour, shake them about, and then pour in half a pint of gravy. Let them stew till the sauce is very good and thick, and then pour all into your dish. Garnish with a few of the «mall tops of the grass. 10* 116 RAGOOING Cucumbers. Slice two cucunibei-s and two onions, and fry thcni togctlicr in a little butter. Then drain them in a sieve, and put them into a saucepan, with a gill of gravy, two spoonsful of white wine, and a blade of mace. When they have stewed five or six minutes, put in a })iece of butter, about the size of a walnut, rolled in flour, a little salt and chyan pepper. Shake tliem well together till the whole is of a good thick- ness, then put them into your dish, and serve them up. Cucumbers May likewise be stewed with forcemeat. Cut your cucumbers into two or three pieces, according to the size, take all the inside out with a cutter, put in your forcemeat, then put some ])utter into your stew-pan along with the cucumbers : after they have stewed some time add some good gravy, a glass of white wine, and let them go on till tender ; then strain off the gra- vy, season and thicken it with cuUis. Put it into the dish with the cucumbers ; the dish must be glazed. Cauliflowers. Take a large cauliflower, wash it thoroughly clean, and separate it into pieces, in the same manner you would do for pickling. Stew them in a nice brown ciiUis till they are tender. Season with pepper and salt, and put them into a dish with the sauce over them. Garnish with a few sprigs of tiie cauliflower nicely boiled. French Beans. Take a quarter of a peck of beans, string them clean, but do not split them. Cut them across in three parts, and lay them in salt and water. After remain- ing tlius about a quarter of an hour, dry them well in a cloth, then put them into a pan, and when you have fried them of a nice brown colour, take them out, pour all the fat from the pan, and put into it a quarter of a pint of hot water. Stir it into the pan, by degrees. VEGETABLES. 117 and let it boil. Tlien take a quarter of a pound of fresh butter rolled in a little flour, t\YO spoonsful of catsup, one of mushroom pickle, fom* of white wine, an onion stuck with six cloves, two or three blades of beaten mace, a little grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. Stir it altogether for a few minutes, and then put in the beans. Shake the pan till the whole is well mixed together, then take out the onion, and pour all into your dish. Garnish with what most pleases your fan- cy ; but pickles may be preferred. This makes a very pretty side dish. Endive. Take three heads of fine white endive, wash them thoroughly clean, and then put them into salt and wa- ter for three hours. Cut off the green heads of a hun- dred of asparagus, chop the rest small as far as it runs tender, and throw it likewise into salt and water. Then take a bunch of celery, w ash and scrape it clean, and cut it into pieces about three inches long. Put it into a saucepan with a pint of water, three or four blades of mace, and some white pepper tied in a cloth. When it has stewed till it is quite tender, put in the asparagus, shake the saucepan, and let it simmer till the grass is enough. Take the three heads of endive out of the water, drain them, and leave the largest ^\ hole. Pull the others asunder, leaf by leaf, and put them into the stew-pan, with a pint of white wine. Cover the pan close, and let it boil till the endive is just enough. Then put in a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, cover the pan again, and keep shaking it. When the endive is en(.)v.gh, take it up, and lay tlie ^\'hole head in the middle ; then with a spooii take out the celery and grass, and lay them round it, and the other parts of the endive over that. Pour the liquor out of the saucepan into the stew prm, stir the whole together, and season it with salt. Have ready the yolks of two eggs, beat up with a quarter of a pint of cream, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix this with the sauce, keep stirring it one way till it is Uiick, then pour it over tlie ragoo, and serve it to table 118 RAGOOIIVG VEGETABLES. Cdbbfii^c Force Maigrc. Take a inc uliitc-heart calibage, wash it clcaru and boil it about five niiiuitcs. Then drain it, cut tlie stalk flat to stand in ii dish, carefully open the leaves, and take out the inside, leaving tlie outside leaves whole. Cut what you take out very fine : then take the flesh of two or tin-ee flounders or plaice, and chop it with the cabbaijje, tlie yolks and whites of four eggs boiled hard, and a handful of picked parsley. Beat all together in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of melted butter. Then mix it up with the yolk of an egg, and a few crumbs of bread. Fill the cabbage with this, and tie it together : put it into a deep stew- l)an, with half a pint of water, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in a little flour, the yolks of four eggs boil- ed hard, an onion stuck with six cloves, some whole pepper and mace tied in a piece of muslin, half an ounce of truffles and morels, a spoonful of catsup, and a few pickled mushrooms. Cover it close, and let it simmer an hour. When it is done, take out the onion and spice, lay the cabbage in your dish, untie it, pour over the sauce, and serve it to table. Asparagus forced in French Rolls. Cut a piece out of the crust of the tops of three French rolls, and take out all the crumb ; but be care- ful that the crusts fit again in the places from whence they were taken. Fry the rolls brown in fresh but- ter : then take a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs well beat fine, and a little salt and nutmeg. Stir thein together over a slow fire till it begins to be thick. Have ready an hundred of small grass boiled, and save tops enough to stick the rolls with. Cut the rest of the tops small, put them into tlie cream, and fill the loaves with them. Before you fry the rolls, make holes thick in the top crusts to stick the grass in, whicli will make it look as if it was growing. This makes a very handsome side dish at a second course. Peas Franqois. Shell a quart of peas, cut a large Spanish onion GRAVIES. 119 small, and two cabbage or Silesia lettuces. Put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of water, a little salt, pepper, mace, and nutmeg, all beaten. Cover them close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour. Then put in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter rolled in a little flour, a spoonful of catsup, and a piece of butter about tlie size of a nutmeg. Cover them close, and let it simmer a quarter of an hour, observing frequent- ly to shake tlie pan. Have ready fom* artichoke bottoms fried, and cut in two, and when you pour the peas ^vith their sauce into a dish, lay them round it. If you choose to malve a pleasing addition, do a cabbage in the manner directed in the article Cab- bage Force-maigre, and put in the middle of the dish. CHAPTER XT. GRAVIES, CULLISES, and other SAUCES. IN the preceding chapters we have, where a proper opportunity offered, directed the necessary sauces to be made for each respective article ; but as there are many others which are used for different purposes, and on various occasions, we shall place them in the present chapter, beginning with Gravies. To make beef gravy, take a piece of the chuck, or neck, and cut it into small pieces ; then strew some flour over it, mix it well with the meat, and put it into the saucepan, with as much water as will cover it, an onion, a little allspice, a little pepper, and some salt. Cover it close, and when it boils take off the scum, then throw^ in a hard crust of bread, or some raspings, and let it stew till the gi'avy is rich and good, then strain it off, and pour it into your sauce boat. .^ vet^y rich Gravy. Take a piece of lean beef, a piece of veal, and a piece of mutton, and cut them into ssnall bits : then 120 SAUCES. triko a large saucepan witli a cover, lay your beef at the hoUoiii, then your uuittou, (hen a very little piece of hacou, a slice or two of carrot, some mace, cloves, whole black and white pej)per, a lar<(e onion cut in slices, a bundle of sweet herbs, and then lay on your \eal. Cover it close, and set it over a slow fire for six or seven minutes, and shake the saucepan often. Then dust some lloiu' into it, and pour in boiling Avater till the meat is something more than covered. Cover your saucepan close, and let it stew till it is rich and good. Then season it to your taste w^ith salt, and strain it off. This gravT will be so good as to answei most purposes. Brown Gravy. Put a piece of butter, about the size of a hen's eg^y into a saucepan, and wdien it is melted shake in a little (lour, and let it be brown. Then by degrees stir in the following ingredients : half a pint of Avater, and the same quantity of ale or small beer that is not bit- ter ; an onion and a piece of lemon-peel cut small, three cloves, a blade of mace, some w hole pepper, a spoon- ful of mushroom pickle, the same quantity of catsup, and an anchovy. Let the whole boil together a quar- ter of an hour, then strain it, and it will be good for sauce for various dishes. Sauce Italian. Put a piece of fresh butter into your stew^-pan, with some mushrooms, onions, parsley, and the half of a laurel leaf, all cut fine ; turn the whole over the fire some time, and shake in a little flour ; moisten it with a glass of white wine, as much good broth, adding salt, pepper, and a little mace beat fine. Let it boil half an hour ; then skim away the fat, and serve it up. You may give it a fine flavour w liile boiling, by putting in a bunch of sweet herbs, but take them out before you serve the sauce. Sauce Piquante. Put a bit of butter with two sliced onions into a stew-pan, a carrot, a parsnip, a little thyme, laurel, SAUCES. 12-1 basil, two cloves, two shalots, a clove of garlic, and some parsley; turn the whole over the fire till' it be \ye]\ coloured ; then shake in some flour, and moisten it with some broth and a spoonful of vinegar. Let it Ijail over a slow fire, and skim and strain it through a sieve. Season it with salt and pepper, and serve it with any dish you wish to be heightened. Sauce Piquante, to serve cold. Cut some salad herbs very fine, with half a clove of garlic, and two shalots : mix tJie whole with mus- tard, sweet oil, a dash of vinegar, some salt and pepper. A Cullis for all sorts of Ragoos and rich Sauces. Take about two pounds of leg of veal, and two slices of lean ham, and put them into a stew-pan, with two or three cloves, a little nutmeg, a blade of mace, some parsley roots, two carrots cut in pieces, some shalots, and two bay-leaves. Set them over a slow fire, cover them close, and let them do gently for half an hour, taking care they do not burn : then put in some beef broth, let it stew till it is as rich as re- quired, and then strain it ofi" for use. ^1 Family Cullis. Take apiece of butter rolled in flour, and stir it in your stew pan till your flour is of a fine yellow colom' ; then put in some thin broth, a little gravy, a glass of white wine, a bundle of parsley, thyme, laurel and sweet-basil, two cloves, a little nutmeg or mace, a few muslii'ooms, and pepper and salt. Let it stew an hour over a slow fire, then skim all the fat clean ofl", and strain it through a lawn sieve. A White Cullis. Cut a piece of veal into thin bits, and put it into a stew-pan, with t^vo or three slices of lean ham, and two onions, each cut into four pieces ; then put in some broth, and season ^vith mushrooms, parsley^ (jreen onions, and cloves. Let it stew till the virtues No. 6. Q 122 •JAUCAS. of all are pretty weii extracted, then Like out all yorj meat and roots with a skimmer, put in a few cTinnbs of bread, and let it stew softly. Take the white part of a yomii^fowl, and pound it in a mortar till it is very fine, put tliis into your cullis, l)ut do not let it boil ; if i.t does not appear sniliciently white, you must add two dozen of blanched almonds. When it has stewed till it is of a good rich taste, strain it oil". A Cullis for Fish. Broil a jack or pike till it is properly done, thcr take oM the skin, and separate the (lesh from the bones. JBoil six eggs hard, and take out the yolks ; blanch a few almonds, beat them to a paste in a mortar, and then add the yolks of the eggs : mix these well with butter, then put in the fish, and pound ail together. Then take half a dozen of onions, and cut them into slices, two parsnips, and three carrots. Set on a stew-pan, put into it a piece of butter to brown, and when it boils put in the roots ; tmii them till they are brown, and then pour in a little broth to moisten them. When it has boiled a few^ minutes, strain it into another sauce- pan ; then put in a wiiole leek, some parsley, sweet* basil, half a dozen cloves, some mushrooms and truffles, and a few crumbs of bread. When it has stewed gently a quarter of an hour, put in the fish, &:c. from the mortar. Let the whole stew some time longer, but be careful it does not boil. When sufficiently done, strain it through a coarse sieve. This is a very pro per sauce to thicken all made dishes. Ham Sauce. Cut some thin slices of the lean part of a dressed ham, and beat it w ith a rolling-pin to a mash. Put it mt© a saucepan, with a tea-cup full of gravy, and set it over a slow fire : but keep stirring it to prevent its sticking at the bottom. When it has been on some time, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, half a pint of beef gravy, and some })epper. Cover it close, let it stew over a gentle Ih'e, aud when it is ([uitc done, strain it olf. This is a very good sauce for an> kind of veal. SAUCES, 125 Essence of Ham. Take three or four pounds of lean ham, and cut it into pieces about an incli thick. Lay them in the bottom of a stew-pan, with shces of carrots, parsnips, and three or four onions cut thin. Let them stew till they stick to the pan, but do not let it burn. Then pour on some strong veal gravy by degrees, some fresh mushrooms cut in pieces, (but if not to be had, musli- room powder,) truffles and morels, cloves, basil, pars- ley, a crust of bread, and a leek. Cover it do^^ n close, and when it has simmered till it is of a good thickness and flavour, strain it otf. If you have preserved tJie gravy from a dressed ham, you may use it with tlie before-mentioned ingredients, instead of the ham, which Avill make it equally good, but not quite so iiigh flavoured. Jl Sauce for Lamb. Take a bit of butter, and mix it with shred pars- ley, shalots, and a little crumb of bread grated very fine. Put the whole into a stew-pan with a glass of good broth and as much white wine, and let it boil some little time. Season it with pepper and salt ; and when you use it squeeze a lemon into it. Sauce for any kind of Roast Meat. Take an anchovy, wash it clean, and put to it a glass of red wine, some gravy, a shalot cut small, and a little juice of a lemon. Stew these together, strain it off", and mix it with the gravy that runs from the meat. A White Sauce. Put some good meat broth into a stew-pan, with a good piece of crumb of bread, a bunch of parsley, sha- lots, thyme, laurel, basil, a clove, a little grated nut- meg, some whole mushrooms, a glass of white wine, salt, and pepper. Let the whole boil till half is con- sumed, then strain it through a sieve ; and when you are ready to use it, put in the yolks of three eggs, beat up with some cream, and thicken it over the fire, taking care that the eggs do not curdle. This sauce \ 121 SAUCES. may be used with all sorts of meat or fish that is done white. Sauce for most kinds of Fish. Take some mutton or veal gravy, and put to it a little of tlie liqnor that drains from your fisii. Put it into a saucepan, with an onion, an anchovy, a spoonful of catsup, and a j^lass of white wine. Thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and a spoonful of cream. If you have oysters, cockles, or shrimps, put them in after you take it ofl' the fire, hut it will be exceeding good w^ithout. If" you have no cream, instead of white wine you must use red. Sauce JVbnpareil. Take a turnip, carrot, and some mushrooms, cut them into a dish, and put them into a stew-pan with some butter. Let them go gently on till tender, then add s*. me good gravy, a glass of wiiite wine, some salt, mace, and pepper, with a few girkins and a dash ol vinegar. Roll a little butter in flour to thicken your sauce. This sauce is very good for braised lamb. Sauce a-la-JMenehout. Put a little cullis into a stew-pan, with a piece of outter rolled in flour, salt and pepper, the yolks of two eggs, three or four shalots cut small, and thicken it over the fire. This sauce should be thick, and may be used with every dish that is done a-la- Saint 3Iene- hout. It is spread over the meat or fish, which is afterw\ards covered with grated bread, and browned with a hot salamander. Egg Sauce. Boil two eggs till they are hard : first chop the whites, then the yolks, but neither of them very fine, and put them together. Then put them into a quarter of" a pound of good melted butter, and stir them well together. Bread Sauce Cut a large piece of crumb from a stale loaf, and SAUCES. 125 put it into a saucepan, with half a pint of water, an onion, a blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns in a bit of cloth. Boil them a few minutes, then take out tlio onion and spice, mash the bread v^ery smooth, and add to it a piece of butter and a little salt. Anchovy Sauce. Take an anchovy, and put into it half a pint of gravy, with a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in a little flour, and stir all together till it boils. You may add, at your discretion, a little lemon-juice, cat- sup, red wine or walnut liquor. Shrimp Sauce. Wash half a pint of shrimps very clean, and put them into a Stew-pan, with a spoonful of anchovy li- quor, and half a pound of butter melted thick. Boil it up for five minutes, and squeeze in half a lemoti. Toss "t up, and pour it into your sauce-boat. Oyster Sauce. When the oysters are opened, preserve the liquor, and strain it through a fine sieve. Wash the oysters very clean, and take oif the beards. Put them into a stew-pan, and pour the liquor over them. Then add a large spoonful of ancho^'y liquor, half a lemon, two blades of mace, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Put in half a pound of butter, and boil it up till the butter is melted. Then take out the mace and le- mon, and squeeze the lemon-juice into the sauce. Give it a boil, stirring it all the time, and put it into your sauce-boat. To melt Butter. Keep a plated or tin saucepan for the purpose only of melting butter. Put a little water at the bottom, and a dust of flour. Shake them together, and cut the butter in slices. As it melts shake it one way ; .et i< boil up, and it will be smooth and thick. 26 SAUCES. Caper Sauce. Take some capers, chop half of tlicni very fine, and put "Jie rest in whole. Chop also some parsley, with a little grated bread, and some salt ; put them into butter melted very smooth, let ihcm boil up, and then pour it into your sauce-boat Shalot Sauce. Chop five or six shalots >ery fine, put them into a saucepan ^vith a gill of gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, and some pepper and salt. Stew them for a minute, and then pour them into your dish or sauce-boat. Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls. Take a lemon and pare off the rind, then cut it into slices, take the kernels out, and cut it into small square bits ; blanch the liver of the fowl, and chop it fine ; mix the lemon and liver together in a boat, pour on some hot melted butter, and stir it up. Gooseberry Sauce. Put some coddled gooseberries, a little juice of sor- rel, and a little ginger, into some melted butter. Fennel Sauce Boil a bunch of fennel and parsley, chop it very small, and stir it into some melted butter. Mint Sauce. Wash your mint perfectly clean from grit or dirt, then chop it very fine, and put to it vinegar and sugar. A relishing Sauce. Put into a small stew-pan two slices of ham, a clove of garlic, a laurel leaf, and two sliced onions ; let them heat, and then add a little broth, two spoonsful of cul- lis, and a spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stew them an hour over a slow fire, then strain it throudi a sieve, and pom* it into your sauce-boat. To crisp Parsley. When you have picked and washed your parsley quite clean, put it iuto a Dutch oven, or on a sheet of SAUCES. 127 paper. Set at a moderate distance from the fire, and keep turning it till it is quite crisp. Lay little bits of butter on it, but not to make it greasy. This is a much better method than that of frying. Sauce for Wild Ducks, Teal, c^'C. Take a proper quantity of veal gravy, Avith some pepper and salt ; squeeze in the juice of two Seville oranges, and add a little red wine ; let the red wine boil some time in the gravy. Pontiff Sauce. Put two or three slices of lean veal, and the same of ham, into a stew-pan, with some sliced onions, car- rot, parsley, and a head of celery. When brown, add a little white wine, some good broth, a clove of garlic, four shalots, two cloves, a little coriander, and two slices of lemon-peel. Boil it over a slow fire till the juices are extracted from the meat, then skim it, and strain it through a sieve. Just before you use it, add a little cullis with some parsley chopped very fine. Aspic Sauce. Infuse chervil, tarragon, burnet, garden cress, and mint, into a little cullis for about half an hour ; then strain it, and add a spoonful of garlic-vinegar, with a iittle pepper and salt. Forcemeat Balls. Take half a pound of veal and half a pound of suet cut fine, and beat them in a marble mortar or wooden bowl, shred a few sweet herbs fine, a little mace dried, a small nutmeg grated, a little lemon-peel cut very fine, some pepper and salt, and the yolks of two eggs. Mix all these well together, then roll some of it in small round balls, and some in long pieces. Roll them in flour, and fry them of a nice brown. If they are for the use of white sauce, instead of frying, put a kittle water into a saucepan, and when it boils, put them in, and a few minutes wi^' do them. 11* 128 MADE DISHES. Lemon Fickle. Take about a score of lenioiis, grate off the out rimls very tliiii, and eut them into quarters, l)ut leave the ])()ttonis wliole. Huh on tlieni e{[uaUy half a pound of hay-salt, and spread them on a large pewter dish. Either put them in a cool oven, or let them dry gi'adu- ally by the hre, till the juice is all dried into the peels ; then put them into a well glazed pitcher, with an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of cloves beat fine, an ounce of nutmeg cut into thin slices, four ounces of garlic peeled, lialf a pint of mustard-seed bruised a little, and tied in a muslin bag. Pour upon them two quarts of boiling white wine vine- gar, close the pitcher well up, and let it stand five or six days by the fire. Shake it well up every day, then tie it close, and let it stand three months to take off the bitter. When you bottle it, put the pickle and emon into a hair sieve, press them well to get out the Jiquor, and let it stand till another day ; then pour off the fine, and bottle it. Let the other stand three or four days, and it will refine itself. Pour it oft' and bot- tle it, let it stand again, and bottle it till the w hole is re- fined. It may be put into any white sauce and will not hurt the colour. It is very good for fish sauce and made dishes. One tea-spoonful is enough for white, and two for brown sauce for a fowl. It is a most useful pic- kle, and gives a pleasant flavoin*. Always put it in be- fore you thicken the sauce, or put any cream in, lest tlie sharpness should make it curdle. CHAPTER XII. MADE D I S HE S. SECT. I. BUTCHER'S MEAT. Bombarded Veal. TAKE a fillet of veal, and having clean cut out the bone, make a forcemeat thus : take the crumb of a penny loaf, half a pound of fat bacon sciiiped. an an- MEAT. 129 chovy, two or three sprigs of sweet marjcnim, a little lemon-peel, thyme, and parsley. Chop these well to- gether, and season them to your taste with salt, chyan pepper, and a httle grated nntmeg. Mix up all toge- ther w_th an en;g and a little cream ; and with this forcemeat fill up the place from whence the hone was taken. Then make cuts all round tlie fillet at about an inch distance from each otl^er. Fill one nich with forcemeat, a second with spinach that has been well boiled and squeezed, and a third with crumbs of bread, chopped oysters, and beef marrow, and thus fill up the holes round the fillet ; wrap the caul close round it, and pat it into a deep pot, with a pint of water. Make a coarse paste to lay over it, in order to prevent the overw giving it a disagreeable taste. When it is taken out of the oven, skim oil' the fat, and put the gravy into a stew-pan, with a spoonful of mushroom catsup, another of lemon-pickle, five boiled artichoke bottoms cut into quarters, two spoonsful of browning, and half an onnce of morels and truffles. Thicken it with butter rolled in flour, give it a gentle boil, put your veal into the dish, •^.nd pour your sauce over it. Fricandeau of Veal. Take the thick part of the leg of veal, shape it nicely oval, lard it well, and put it into boiling water. Let it boil up once, then take it out, and put into your stew-pan some slices of veal, roots, sweet herbs, with salt, pepper, and mace. Put in half a pint of gravy, then put in your fricandeau, covering it with some pep- per and butter. Let it go gently on foi- three hours, then take it out md glaze it. You may serve it with sorrel sauce, Avhich is almost always used, or glazed onions, or endive sauce. If the larded fricandeau lies a few liours in water, it will be a great deal the whiter. Veal Olives. Cut some large colIopsolTa fillet of veal, and hack them well with tlie back of a knife. Spread very thin- ly ibrcemeat over each, then roll them up, and either \o. 6. K 130 MADE DISHES. toast or bake them. Make a ragoo of oysters or sweet- breads cut ill siiiiarc bits, a few inii^liroonis and morels, and lay them in the dish witii rolls of veal. Put nice brown j^ravy into the disli, and send tlieiii up hot, with forcemeat balls round them. Garnish with lemon. • Avcnadincs of Veal. These are done the same as the fricandeau, ex- cej)ting that the veal is cut into slices. Three pieces make a dish ; and they are served with the same sauces. Veal Cutlets en Papilotes. Cut them thin, and put them in square pieces of white paper, with salt, pepper, parsley, shalots, mush- rooms, all shred fine, with butter ; twist the paper round the cutlets ; letting the end remain micovered ; rub the outside of the paper with butter ; lay the cut- lets upon the gridiron over a slow fire, with a sheet of buttered paper under them. Serve them in the papers. Poreupine of a Breast of Veal. Take a fine large breast of veal, bone it, and rub it over with the yolks of two eggs. Spread it on a table, and lay over it a little bacon cut as thin as possible, a handful of parsley shred fine, the yolks of five hard boiled eggs chopped small, a little lemon-peel cut fine, the crumb of a penny loaf steeped in cream, and .sea- son to your taste Avith salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll the breast of veal close, and ske^verit np. Then cut some fat bacon, the lean of ham that has been a little boiled, and pickled cucnmbers, about two inches long. Lard the veal with this in rows, first ham, then bacon, and then cucumbers, till you have larded every j)art of it. Put it into a deep earthen pot, with a pint of water, cover it close, and set it in a slow oven for t\vo hours. When it comes from the oven, skim oft' the fat, and strain the gravy through a sieve into a stew-pan. Put into it a glass of white wine, a little lemon-pickle and caper liqmr, and a spoonfiil of mushroom catsup. Thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour, lay your B!£AT. 181 porcupine en tlio disli, and pour your sauce over it. Have ready a roll of forcemeat made thus : take the crumb of a penny loaf, half a pound of beef suet shred fine, the yolks of four eggs, and a few chopped oysters. Mix these well together, and season it to yoiu' taste with chyan pe})per, salt, and nutmeg. Spread it on a veal caul, and having rolled it up close like a collared eel, bind it in a cloth, and boil it an hour. This done, cut it into four slices, lay one at each end and the others on the sides. Have ready your sweet-bread cut in slices and fried, and lay them round it ^^ itii a few mushrooms. This makes a grand bottom dish a< that time of the year when game is not to be had. Fricandeau of Veal a-la-Bourgeois. Cut some lean veal into thin slices, lard them with streaked bacon, and season them with pepper, salt, beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Put in the bottom of your stew-pan some slices of fat bacon, lay the veal upon them, cover the pan, and set it over the fii'e for eight or ten nu'nutes, just to bt hot and no more. Then w ith a brisk fn-e, brown your veal on both sides, and shake some flour over it. Pour in a quart of good broth or gravy, cover it close, and let it stew gently till it is enough. Then take out the slices of bacon, skim all the fat off clean, and beat up the yolks of tlu'ee eggs, with some of the gravy. Mix all together, and keep it stirring one way till it is smooth and thick. Then take it up, lay your meat in tlie dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon. Calf ^8 Head Siuyrise. When you have properly cleansed it for dressing, scrape a pound of fat bacon very fine, take the crumbs of two penny loaves, a small nutmeg grated, and sea- son it to your taste with salt, chyan pepper, and a lit- tle lemon-peel. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and mix all together into a rich forcemeat. Put a little of it into the ears, and the rest into the head. Then put it into a deep pot, just wide enouo-h to admit it. and 132 MADE DISHES. put to it two quarts of water, lialf a pint of wliite wine, a l)lacle or two of mace, a bundle of sw^cet lierbs, an anchovy, two spoonsful of walnut and nnishroom catsu]), the same quantity of lemon-pickle, and a little salt and chyan pepj)er. Lay a coarse paste over it to keep in the steam, and put it f()r two hours and a half into a very quick oven. When you take it out, lay your head in a soup-dish, skim olf the fat from the gravy, and strain it tlirou<»h a hair sieve into a stew ])an. Thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour^ and when it has boiled a few minutes, put in the yolks of six eggs well beaten, and mixed "with half a pint of cream. Have ready boiled a few^ forcemeat balls, and half an ounce of truffles and morels, but do not stew tiiem in the gi'avy. Pour the gravy over the head, and garnish with truffles and morels, forcemeat balls, barberries, and mushrooms. This makes an elegant top dish, and is not very expensive. Jl Calf's Pluck. Roast the heart stuffed with suet, sweet herbs, muX a little parsley, all chopped small, a few crumbs of bread, some pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little lemon - peel, all mixed up with the yolk of an e^^. Boil ihe lights with part of the liver, and when they are enough chop them very small, and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some pepper and salt, and a little juice of lemon. Fry the other part of the liver with vsome thin slices of bacon. Lay the mince at the bottom of the dish, the heart in the middle, and the fried liver and bacon round, with some crisped parsley. Serve theni up with plain melted butter in a sauce-boat. Loin of Veal en Epigram. Roast a loin of veal properly for eatiuj;, then tnke it up, and carefully cut off the skin froiu the back part without brea/ving it. Cut out the lean part, but leave the ends whole, to contain the following mince- meat ; mince all the veal very fine with the kidney MEAT. 133 part, put it into a little gravy, enough to moisten it with the gravy that comes from the loin Put in a little pepper and salt, some lemon-peel shred fine, the yolks of three eggs, and a spoonful of catsup. Thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour. Give it a shake or two over the fire, put it into the loin, and pull the skin gently over it. If the skin should not quite cover it, give the part wanting a brown with a hot iron, or put it into an oven for about a quarter of an hour. Send it up hot, and garnish with lemon and barberries. Pilloiv of Veal. Half roast a neck or breast of veal, then cut it in- to six pieces, and season it with pepper, salt, and nut- meg. Take a pound of rice, and put it to a quart of broth, some mace, and a little salt. Stew it over a stove on a very slow fire till it is thick ; but butter the bottom of the pan you do it in. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, and stir them into it. Then take a little round deep dish, butter it, and lay some of the rice at the bottom. Then lay the veal in around heap, and cover it over all with rice. R.ub it over with the yolks of eggs, and bake it an hour and a half Then open the top, and pour in a pint of good rich gravy. Send it hot to table, and garnish with a Seville orange cut in quarters. Shoulder of Veal a-la- Piedinontoise. Cut the skin of a shoulder of veal, so that it may hang at one end ; then lard the meat with bacon or ham, and season it with pepper, salt, mace, sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel. Cover it again with the skin, stew it with gravy, and when it is tender take it up. Then take sorrel, some lettuce chopped small, and stew them in some butter with parsley, onions, and mushrooms. When the herbs are tender, put to them some of the liquor, s-ome sweet-breads and bits of liam. Let all stew together a short time ; then lift up the skin, lay the stewed herbs over and under, cover it again with the skin, moisten it with melted 134 MADE DISHES. butter, strew over it crumbs of bread, and send ic to the oven to brown. Serve it up hot with some good •gravy in the dish. Sweetbreads of Veal a-la-Daiiphine. Take tlu-ee of the largest sweetbreads you can get, and open them in such a manner that you can stulf in forcemeat. IMake your forcemeat with a hirge fowl ; skin it, and pick ojf all the flesh. Then take half a pound of fat and lean bacon, cut it very fine, and beat them in a mortar. Season it with an anchovy, some nutmeg, a little lemon-peel, a very little thyme, and some parsley. INIix these up with the yolks of two eggs, fill yoxr sweetbreads v/ith it, and fasten them together with fine wooden skewers. Put layers of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and season them with pepper, salt, mace, cloves, sweet herbs, and a large onion sliced. Lay upon these thin slices of veal, and then your sweet breads. Cover it close, let it stand eight or ten mi- nutes over a slow fire, and then pour in a quart of boiling water or broth, and let it stew gently for two hours. Then take out the sweetbreads, keep them hot, strain the gravy, skim all the fat off, and boil it up till it is reduced to about half a pint. Then put in the sAveetbreads, and let them stew two or three mi- nutes in the gi'avy. Lay them in a dish, and pour • he gravy over them. Garnish with lemon. Sweetbreads en Gordineere. Parboil tlu^ee sweetbreads ; then take a stew-pan, and put into it layers of bacon, or ham and veal ; over which lay the sweetbreads, with the upper sides down- wards. Put in a layer of veal and bacon over them, a pint of veal broth, and three or four blades of mace. Stew them gently three quarters of an hour ; then take out the sweetbreads, strain the gravy through a sieve, and sldm off the fat. Make an amulet of yolks of eggs, in the following manner : beat up four yolks of eggs, put two on a plate, and set tliem over a stew- pan of boiiiiio; water, v.lrh another plate over t, and MEAT. 135 it A\'ill be soon done. Put a little spinach jnice into the otlicr hall', and serve it the same. Cot it out in sprigs of ^vhat form yon please, put it over the sweetbreads in the chsh, and keep them as hot as you '^an. Tliick- vn the gravy with butter rolled in flour ar d two yolks of eggs beat up in a gill of cream. Put it over the tire, and keep stirring it one way till it is thick and smooth. Pour it over the sweetbreads, and send it to table. («iu*nlsh with lemon and beet-root. Siveetbreads a-la-daub. Take three of the largest and finest sweetbreads you can get, and put them for five minutes into a saucepan of boiling water. Then take them out, and when they are cold, lard them with small pieces of bacon. Put them into a stew-pan with some good veal gravy, a little lemon-juice, and a spoonful of browning. Stew them gently a quarter of an hoiu', and a little before they are ready tliicken Avith flour and butter. Dish them up, and pour the gravy over them. Lay round them bunches of boiled celery, or oyster patties ; and garnish with barberries or parsley. Scotch Collops. Cut your collops off the thick part of a leg of veal, about the size and thickness of a crown piece, and put a piece of butter browned into your frying-pan, then lay in your collops, and fry them over a quick fire. Siiake and turn them, and keep them on a fine froth. When they are of a nice light brown take them out, put them into a pot, and set them before the fire to keep A\arm. Then put cold bntter again into your pan, and fry the coilo})s as before. When they are done, and properly brown, your tlie liquor from them into a stew-pan, and add to it half a pint of gravy, half a lem n, an anchovy, half an ounce of niorels, a large spoonful of browning, the same of catsup, twospoons- lidl of lemon-pickle, and season it to youi taste with sak and chyan pepper. Thicken it with butter and flonr, let it boil f.ve or six minutes, and then put in 12 136 MADE DISHES. your collops, and sliakc tliom over the fire, but be careful not to let tlieni boil. When they have sim- mered a little, take them out, and lay them in the dish. Then strain your gravy, and pour it hot on tlieni. Lay on them forcemeat balls, and little slices of bacon curled roun'' a skewer and boiled. Throw a few mushrooms over them, and garnish A\itli bar- l)erries and lemon. Beef Collops. Take a large rump stake, or any piece of beef that is tender, and cut it into pieces in the form of Scotch collops, but larger. Hack them a little with a knife, then flour them, and having melted a little butter in your stew-pan, put in your collops, and fry them quick for about two minutes. Then put in a pint of gravy, a bit of butter rolled in flour, and season it with pep- per and salt. Cut four pickled cucumbers into thin slices, a few capers, half a walnut, and a little onion shred fine. Put these into the pan, and having stew- ed the whole together about five minutes, put them all hot into your dish, and send them to table. Garnish with lemon. Beef a-la-dauh. Take a rump of beef, and cut out the bone, or a part of the leg of mutton piece, or what is usually call- ed the mouse-buttock, and cut some fat bacon into slices as long as the beef is thick, and about a quarter of an inch square. Take foiu' blades of mace, double that number of cloves, a little allspice, and iialf a nut- meg grated fine. Chop a good handful of parsley, and some sweet-herbs of all sorts very fine, and season with salt and pepper. Roll the bacon in tliese, and then take a large larding-pin, and with it tlirust the bacon through the beef. Having done this, .put it in- to a stew-pan, with a quantity of brown gravy suf- ficient to cover it. Cho]^ three blades of garlic very fine, and put in some fresh nuishrooms, two large onions, and a carrot. Stew it gently for six hours, theo MEAT. 137 take it out, strain off the gravy, and skim off all the fat. Put your meat and gravy into the pan again, and add to it a gill of white wine ; and if you find it not suf ficiently seasoned, add a little more pepper and salt Stew it gently for half an hour more, and then add some artichoke bottoms, morels and truflles, some oysters, and a s])oonful of vinegar. Then put the meat into a s^up dish, and pour the sauce over it. Beef Tremblent. Take a brisket of beef, and tie up the fat end quite tight. Put it into a pot of water, and let it boil gently for six honrs. Season the water with a little salt, a handfnl of allspice, two onions, two turnips, and a carrot. In the mean time, put a piece of butter into a stew-pan, and melt it, then put in two spoonsful of (lour, and stir it till it is smooth. Put in a quart of gravy, a spoonful of catsup, the same of browning, a gill of white wine, and some turnips and carrots cut into small pieces. Stew them gently till the roots are tender, and season with pepper and salt. Skim the fat clean off, put the beef in the dish, and pour tlie sauce over it. Garnish with any kind of pickles. Beef Kidneys a-la-Bourgeoifie. Cut them in thin .slices, and set them over the fire, with a bit of butter, salt, pepper, parsley, onions, and a small clove of garlic ; the whole shred small : when done, take them off the fire,. but do not let them lie long, as they will become tough. Add a few drops of vinegar and a little cidlis. Beef kidneys may also be served a-la-braise, with sauce piquante. Beef a-la-mode. The most proper parts for this purpose are a small buttock, a leg of mutton piece, a clod or part of a large buttock. Being famished with your meat, take two dozen of cloves, as much mace, and half an ounce ..il allspice beat fine, chop a large handhil of parsley, and all sorts of «weet herbs fine ; cut some fat l^acort as No. 6. S 138 maije dishes. long as tlic beef is tliick, and about a quarter of an inch s([uare, and put it into thf spice, «^c. and into tlie beef the same. Then put tiie beef into a pot, and cover it with water. Chop four large onions very fine, and six: cloves of garlic, six bay leaves, and a hand- ful of champignons, or fresh mushrooms, ])ut all into tlie pot, witii a pint of porter or ale, and half a pint of red wine ; put in some pepper and salt, some chyan pepper, a spoonful of vinegar, strew three handfuls of bread raspings, siftetl fine, all over; cover the pot close^ and stew it for six hours, or according to the size of the piece ; if a large piece, eight hours. Then take the beef out, put it into a deep dish, and keep it hot over some boiling w'ater ; stra.n the gravy through a sieve, and pick out the champignons or mushrooms ; skim all the fat off clean, put it into your pot again, and give it a boil up ; if not seasoned enough, season it to your liking ; then put the gravy into your beef, and send it hot to table. If you like it best cold, cut it in slices with the gravy over it, w^hich will be a strong jelly. Beef a-la-Royal. Take all the bones out of a brisket of beef, and make holes in it about an inch from each other. Fill one hole wdth fat bacon, a second with chopped pars- ley, and a third with chopped oysters. Season these stuffings with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. When the beef is completely stuffed, put it into a pan, pour upon it a pint of wine boiling hot, dredge it well with flour, and send it to the oven. Let it remain there three hours, and when it is taken out, skim off all the fat, put the meat into yc u' dish, and strain the gravy over it. Garnish with pickles. Beef Olives. Cut some steaks from a rump of beef about half an inch thick, as square as you can, and about ten inches long ; then cut apiece of fatba^,on as wide as the beef, and about three parts as long Put part of the yolk of MEAT. 139 an egg on the bacon. Lay some good savory force meat, on that some of the yolk of an egg on tlie foi'ce- meat, and then roll them up, and tie them round Avith a string in two places. Strew on some crumbs of bread, and over them some of the yolk* of an egg. Tlw^n fry them brown in a large pan, with some beef dripping, and when they are done take them out, and lay them to drain. Melt some butter in a stew-pan, put in a spoonfid of flour, and stir it well till it is smooth. — Then put in a pint of good gravy, with a gill of white wine, and then the olives, and let them stew an hour. Add some mushrooms, truffles, and morels, forcemeat balls, sweet-breads cut in small pieces, and some ox- palates. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and season it with pepper and salt. Shake them up, and having carefully skimmed off the fat, lay your olives in the dish, and pour the grvwy over them. Garnish with lemon and beet root. Bouille Beef. Put the thick end of a brisket of beef into a kettle and cover it with water. Let it boil fast for two hours, then stew it close by the fire side for six hours more, .ind fill up the kettle as the water decreases: Put in with the beef some turnips cut in little balls, some car- rots, and some celery. About an hour before the meat is done, take out as much brotli as will fill your soup dish, and boil in it for an hour, turnips and carrots cut in little round or square pieces, with some celery, and season it to your taste with salt and pepper. Serve it up in two dishes, the beef in one dish, and the soup in another. You may put pieces of fried bread in your soup, and boil in a few knots of greens ; and when you would have your soup very rich add a pound or two of mutton chops to your broth when you take it from the beef, and let them stew in it for half an hour ; but remember to take out the mutton before you serv-3 the soup up. Sii'loiii of Beef en Epigram. Roast a sirloin of beef j and when it is done, take 12* ; 40 MADE DISHES. it oir the spit, carefully raise tlie skin, and draw it off. Then cut out the lean part of the beef, but observe not to toucli eitiier the ends or sides. Ilasii tiie meat in tiie following maimer: cut it into pieces about the size of a crown piece, put half a pint of gravy into a stew-pan, an onion chopj)ed fme, two sj^oonsful of catsup, some pep])er and salt, six small pickled cucum- bers cut in thin slices, and the gravy that comes from the l)eef, with a little butter rolled in flour. Put in the meat, and shake it up for five minutes. Then put it on the sirloins, draw the skin carefully over, and send it to table. Garnish with lemon and pickles. The Inside of a Sirloin of Beef forced. Lift up the fat of the inside, cut out the meat quite close to the bone, and chop it small. Take a pound of suet, and chop that small ; tlien put to them some crumbs of bread, a little lemon-peel, thyme, pep- per and salt, half a nutmeg grated, and two shalots chopped fme. Mix all together with a glass of red wine, and then put the meat into the place you took it from : cover it with the skin and fat, skewer it down with fme skewers, and cover it with paper. The pa- per musl^not be taken off till the meat is put on the dish, and your meat ni'.st be spitted before you take out the inside. Just before the meat is done, take a quarter of a pint of red wine, and two shalots shred small ; boil tiiem, and pour it into the dish, with the gravy that comes from the meat. Send it hot to table, and garnish with lemon. The inside of a rump of beef forced must be done nearly in the same manner, only lift op the outside skin, take the middle of the meat, and proceed as be- fore directed. Put it into the same place, and skewer it down close. A Round of Beef forced.. Rub your meat fust with common salt, then a little bay-salt, some salt petre, and coarse sugar. Let it lay a full week in this pickle, turning it every day. On the day it is to be dressed, wash and dry it, lard it a MEAT. 141 little, and make holes, which fill with bread crumbs, marrow, or suet, parvsley, grated lemon-peel, sweet herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg, made into stuffing. Bake it with a little w ater and some small beer, whole pepper, and an onion. When it comes from tlie oven, skim the fat clean off, put the meat into your dish, and pour the liquor over it. In- stead of baking, you may boil it, but it must be done gradually over a slow fire. When cold, it makes a handsome side-board dish for a large company. Beef Steaks rolled. Take some beefsteaks, and beat them with aclea ver till they are tender ; make some forcemeat with a pound of veal beat fine in a mortar; tlie flesh of a fowl, half a pound of cold ham, or gammon of bacon, fat and lean ; the kidney fat of a loin of veal, and a sweet- bread, all cut very fine ; some truffles and morels stewed, and then cut small two shalots, some parsley, and a little thyme, some lemon-peel, the yolks of four eggs, a nutmeg gi-ated, and half a pint of cream. Mix all these together, and sth- them over a slow fire for ten minutes. Put them upon the steaks, and roll them up ; then skewer them tight, put them into the frying-pan, and fry them of a nice brown. Then take them from the fat, and put them into a stew-pan, -with a pint of good drawn gravy, a spoonful of red wine, two of catsup, a few pickled mushrooms, and let them stew^ for a quarter of an hour. Take up the steaks, cut them into tw o, and lay the cut side upper- most. Garnish with lemon. Beef Rump en Matelotte. Take your beef rump and cut it in pieces ; parboil them, and then boil them in some broth w ithout any seasoning ; when about half done, stir in a little but- ter with a spoonful of flour over the fire till brown, and moisten it with the broth of your rumps ; then put your rumps in with a dozen of large parboiled onions, a glass of white wine, a bunch of parsley, a laurel 1 42 MADE DISHES. Iciif, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and pe])per and salt. Let them stew till the rump and onions are done : then skim it well, and pnt an anchovy cut small and some capers cut into the sauce. Put the run\p in the middle of the di.sh with the onions round it. A beef runij) will take four hours doing. Beef Escarlot. The proper piece of beef for this purpose ts the brisket, w hich you nuist manage a* follows : take half a pound of coarse sugar, two ounces of bay salt, and a poinid of common salt. Mix these well together, rub the beef with it, put it into an earthen pan, and turn it every day. It may lie in this pickle a fortnight, then boil it, and serve it up with sa\ oys ; but it eats much better when cold, and cut into sJces. Tongue and Udder forced. First parboil them, then blanch the tongue, and stick it with cloves : then fill the udder with forcemeat made with veal. First wash the inside with the yolk of an egg, then put in the forcemeat, tie the ends close, and spit them, roast them, and baste them with butter. When they are done, put good gravy into the dish, sweet sauce into a cup, and serve them up. Tripe a-la-Kilktnny. Take a piece of double tripe, and cut it into square pieces : peel and wash ten large onions, cut each into two, and put them on to boil in water till they are tender. Then put in your tripe, and lx>il it ten mi- nutes. Pour off almost all the liquor, shake a little flour into it, and put in some butter, with a little salt and mustard. Shake all over the lire till the butter is melted, then put it into your dish, and send it to table as hot as possible. Garnish with lemon or bar- berries. This dish is greatly adftiired in Ireland. lldvrico of Mutton. Cut the best end of a neck of mutton into chops, in single ribs, flatten them, and fry hem of a I'ght brown MEAT. 143 Then put tlicm into a large saucepan, Avitli two quarts of water, and a large carrot cut in slices ; and when they have stewed a quarter of nn hour, put in two turnips cut in square pieces, the v. hite part of a head of celery, two cabbage lettuces fried, a few heads of asparagus, and season all A^•ith a little chyan pepper. Boil all together till tender, and put it into a tureen or soup-dish, without any thickening to the gravy. Shoulder of Mutton surprised. Half boil a shou der of nnitton, and then put it in- to a stew-pan with two quarts of veal gravy, four ounces of rice, a little beaten mace, and a tea spoonful of nmshrooni pow der. Stew it an hour, or till the rice is enough, and then take up your mutton and keep it hot. Put to the rice half a pint of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour ; then shake it well, and boil it a few^ minutes. Lay your mutton on the dish, and pour your gravy ov er it. Garnish with pickles or bar- berries. To dress the Umbles of Deer. Take the kidney of a deer, with the fat of the heart : season them with a little pepper, salt, and nut- meg. First fry, and then stew them in some good gravy till they are tender. Squeeze in a little lemon ; take the skirts, and stuff them ^vith the forcemeat made with the fat of the venison, some fat of bacon, grated bread, pepper, mace, sage, and onion chopped very small. Mix it with the yolk of an egg. When the skirts are stufled with this, tie them to the spit to roast ; but first strew over them some thyme and le- mon-peel. When they are done, lay the skirts in the middle of the dish, and then fricasee round it. Mutton Kehohhed. Cut a loin of mutton into four pieces, then take off the skin, rub them with the yolk of an e^s,, and strew over them a few crumbs of bread and a little parsley, shred fine. Spit and roast them, and keep basting them all the time wit'i fresh butter in order to make 144 MADE DISHES. the froth rise. AVheii tliey are properly done, put a htlle hrouiigra\y under them, and send them to table. Garnish with pickles. Lci^- of Mutton a-la-haut Gout. Take a line leg of mutton that has hung a fort- night, (if the weatl.er will permit,) and stuU" every pari of it with sonic cloves ot garlic, rub it with pepper and salt, and then roast it. When it is properly done, send it up with some good gravy and red wine in the dish. Leg of Mutton roasted icith Oysters. Take a fme leg of mutton that has hung two or tlu'ce days, stuff every part of it w itli oysters, roast it, and when done, pour some good gravy into the dish, and garnish with horse-radish. If you prefer cockles you must proceed in the same manner. Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram. Roast a shoulder of mutton till it is nearly enough, then carefully take off the skin about the thickness of a crown-piece, and also the shank-bone at the end. Season both the skin and shank-bone with pepper, salt, a little leiuon-peel cut small, and a few sweet herbs and crumbs of bread : lay this on the gridhon till it is of a fine brow n ; and, in the meantime, take the rest of the meat, and cut it like a hash in pieces, about the bigness of a shilling. Save the gravy, and put to it, with a few spoonsful of strong gravy, a little nutmeg, half an onion cut fme, a small bundle of herbs, a little pepper and salt, some girldns cut very small, a few mushrooms, two or three truffles cut small, two spoonsful of wine, and a little floin' dredged into it. Let all these stew together very slowly for five or six minutes, but be careful it does not boil. Take out the sweet herbs, lay the hash in the dish, and the broiled upon it. Garnish w ith pickles. Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys. Boil six sheep's rumps in veal gravy; then lard voiu' kidnejs with bacon, and set them before the fire MEAT. 145 In a tin oven ; as soon as the rumps become tender, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, a Httle grated nutmeg, and some cliyan pepper. Skim the fat from tiie gravy, and put tlie .<»:ravy in a stew-pan, with three ounces of boiled rice, a spoonful of- good cream, and a little catsup and mushroom powder. Thicken it with flour and butter, and give it a gentle boil. Fry your rumps till they are of a light bro\\n ; and when you dish them up, lay them round on the rice, so that the ends may meet in the middle ; lay a kidney be- tween every rump, and garnish with barberries and red cabbage. This makes a pretty side or corner dish. Mutton Rumps a-la-Braise. Boil six mutton rumps for fifteen minutes in water, then take them out, and cut them into two, and put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of good gravy, a gill of white wine, an onion stuck with cloves, and a little salt and chyan pepper. Cover them close, and stew them till they are tender. Take them and the onion out, and thicken the gravy v»dth a little butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of browning, and the juice of half a lemon. Boil it up till it is smooth, but not too thick. Then put in your rumps, give them a shake or two, and dish them up hot. Garnish with horse- radish and beet-root. For variety, you may leave the rumps whole, and lard six kidneys on one side, and do them the same as the rumps, only not boil them, and put the rumps in the middle of the dish, and kidneys round them, with the sauce over all. Mutton Chops in Disguise. Rub the chops over with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little parsley. Roll each in half a sheet of white paper, well buttered within-side, and close the two ends. Boil some hog's lard, or beef dripping, in a stew-pan, and put the steaks into it. Fry them of a fine brown, then take them out, and let the fat tho- roughly drain from them. Lay them in your dish, and serve them up with good graw in a sauce-boat. Gar nish with horse-radish and fried parsley. .Mo. 7. T 146 MADE DISHES. A Shoulda of Mutton called Hen and Chickens. Half roast a shoulder, tiicn take itnp, and cut ofl (lie blade at the fh-st joint, and both the (laps, to make the blade round; score tiie blade round in diamonds, throw a little j)epper and salt over it, and set it in a tin oven to broil. Cut the Haps and meat olV the shank in thin slices, and put the ^ravy that came out of the mutton into a stew-pan, with a little good gravy, two spoonsful of walnut catsup, one of browning, a little chyan pepper, and one or two shalots. When your meat is tender, thicken it with flour and butter, pat it into the dish with the gravy, and lay the blade on the t(^p. Garnish with green pickles. A Quarter of Lamb forced. Take a large leg of lamb, cut a long slit on the back side, and take out the meat ; but be careful yon do not deface the otlier side. Then chop the meat small with marrow, half a pound of beef suet, some oysters, an anchovy vrashed, an onion, some s^veet herbs, a little lemon-peel, and some beaten mace and nutmeg. Beat all these together in a mortar, stufl up the leg in the shape it was before, sew it up, anc? rub it all over with tlie yolks of eggs beaten ; spit it flonr it all over, lay it to the fire, and baste it wit! butter. An hour will roast it. In the meantime, cu' the loin into steaks, season them w ith pepper, salt and nutmeg, lemon-peel cut fine, and a few^ herbs' Fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, then pou' out all the butter, put in a quarter of a pint of whit( wiue, shake it about, and then add half a pint of strong gravy, w herein good spice has been boiled, a quartej of a pint of oysters and the liquor, some muslu'ooms, and a spoonful of the pickle, a piece of butter roller' in flour, and the yolk of an Q^g beat fine; stir all thes( together till thick, then lay your leg of lamb in tlu dish, and the loin round it. Pour the sauce over them and garnish witli lemon. Lamb's Bits. Skin the stones, and split them ; then lay them on MEAT. 147 a dry cloth with tlie sweetbreads and the hvcr, and dredge them well with flonr. Fry tlieni in lard or butter till they are of a ligiit brown, and then lay them in a sieve to drain. Fry a good quantity of parsley, lay your bits on the dish, the parsley in liunps over them, and pour round them melted butter. Lamb a-la-Bechamel. La Bechamel is nothing more than to reduce any thing to the consistence of cream, till it is thick enough to make a sance. When it begins to thicken, pnt in the meat cut in slices, warm it without boihng, season it to your taste, and serve it up. All slices a-la- bechamel are done in the same manner. Lamb Chops en Casarole. Having cut a loin of lamb into chops, put yolks of eggs on both sides, and strew bread crumbs over them, with a few cloves and mace, pepper and salt mixed ; fry them of a nice light brown, and put them round in a dish, as close as you can ; leave a hole in the middle to put the following sauce in : all sorts of sweet herbs and parsley chopped line, and stewed a little in some good thick gravy. Garnish with fried parsley. Barbacued Pig. Prepare a pig, about ten weeks old, as for roast- ing. Make a forcemeat of two anchovies, six sage loaves, and the liver of the pig, all chopped very small ; then put them into a mortar with the crumb of half a penny loaf, four ounces of butter, half a tea-spoonful of chyan pepper, and half a pint of red wine. Beat them all together to a paste, put it into the pig's belly, and sew it up. Lay your pig down at a good distance before a large brisk fire, singe it well, put into your dripping-pan three bottles of red wine, and baste it well with this all the time it is roasting. When it is half done, put under the pig two penny loaves, and if you find your wine too much reduced, add more. When your pig is near enough, take the loaves and sauce out of your dripping-pan, and put to the sauce Jo 148 MADE DISHES. one anchovy clioppcd small, a bundle of sweet herbs, and half a lemon. Boil it a tew minutes, then draw your pii;, pnta small lemon or apple in the pigs mouth, and a leal on eaciiside. Strain your sauce, and pour it on boiling hot. Send it up whole to table, and garnish with barberries and sliced lemon. Jl Pig ail Pere Duillct. Cut off the head, and divide the body into quarters, lard them with bacon, and season them well with salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and mace. Put a layer of fif bacon at the bottom of a kettle, lay the head in the middle, and the quarters round it. Then put in a bay-leaf, an onion shred, a lemon, with some carrots, parsley, and the liver, and cover it again with bacon. Put in a quart of broth, stew it for an hour, and then take it up. Put your pig into a stew-pan, pour in a bottle of white wine, cover it close, and let it stew very gently an hour. In the meantime, while it i? stewing in the wine, take the first gravy it was stew- ed in, skim off the fat, and strain it. Then take a sweetbread cut into five or six slices, some truffles, morels, and mushrooms, and stew all together till they are enough. Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, or a piece of butter rolled in flour ; and when your pig is enough, take it out, and lay it in your dish. Put the wine it was stewed in to the sauce, then pour it all over the pig, and garnish with lemon. If it is to be served up cold, let it stand till it is so, then drain it well, and wipe it, that it may look white, and lay it in a dish, with the head in the middle, and the quarters round it. Throw some gi'een parsley over all. Either of the quarters separately make a pretty dish. Jl Pig Matelote. Having taken out the entrails, and scalded your pig, cut off the head and pettitoes ; then cut the body into four quarters, and put them, with the head and toes, into cold water. Cover the bottom of a stew- pan with slices of bacon, and place the quarters over MEAT, c^C. 149 them, with the pettitoes, and the head cut in two. Season the whole with pepper and salt, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, an onion, and add a bottle of white wine. Then lay on more slices of bacon, pat over it a quart of water, and let it boil Skin and gut two large eels, and cut tliem in pieces about five or six inches hng. When your pig is half done, put in your eels; then boil a dozen of large craw-fish, cut oft' tlie claws, and take oft" the shells of the tails. When your pig and eels are enough, lay your pig in the dish, and your pettitoes round it ; but do not put in the head, as that will make a pretty cold dish. Then lay your eels and craw-fish over them, and take the liquor they were stewed in, skim oft* the fat, and add to it half a pint of strong gravy, thickened with a little piece of burnt butter. Pour this over it, and garnish with lemon and craw-fish. Fry the brains, and lay them round, and all over the dish. At grand entertainments this will do for a first course or remove. Sheep's Trotters en Gratten Boil them in water, and then put them into a stew- pan with a glass of white wine, half a pini of broth, as much ciillis, a bunch of sweet herbs, with Stili, whole pepper, and mace. Stew them by a slow fire till the sauce is reduced, then take out the herbs, and Sb:? ve them upon a gratten. Sheep's trotters may be servA d with a ragoo of cucumbers. SECT. IT. MADE DISHES of POULTRY. &c. Turkey a-la-dcmb. Bone your turkey, but let it be so carefiiUy done, as not to spoil the look of it, and then stuff" it with the following forcemeat : chop some oysters v^ery fine, and mix them with some* crumbs of bread, pepper, i«alt, slialots, and very \itl\e thyme, parsley, and but- 150 MADE DISHES. ter. Having filled your turkey with th s, sew it up, tie it in a cloth, and boil it white, but be careful not to boil it too much. Serve it up with good oyster sauce. Or you may make a rich gravy of the bones, with a piece of veal, iMitton, and bacon ; season with salt, pepper, shalots, and a little mace. Strain it oil throngli a sieve ; and having before half-boiled \oui turkey, stew it in this gravy just half an hour. Hav- ing well skimmed the gravy, dish up your turkey in it, after you have thickened it with a few mushrooms stewed white, or stewed palates, forcemeat balls, sweetbreads, or fried oysters, and picc(,^s of lemon. Dish it with the breast upwards. You may add a few morels and trufHes to your sauce. Turkey in a hurry. Truss a turkey with the legs inward, and flatten it as much as you can : then put it into a stew-pan, with melted lard, chopped parsley, shalots, mush- rooms, and a little garlic ; give it a few turns on the hre, and add the juice of half a lemon to keep it white. Then put it into another stew-pan, with slices of veal, one slice of ham, and melted lard, and every' thing as used before ; adding whole pepper and salt ; cover it over with slices of lard, and set it about half an hour over a slow fire . then add a glass of white wine and a little broth, and finish the brazing ; skim and sift the sauce, add a little culhs to make it rich, reduce it to a good consistence, put the turkey into your dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish with lemon. Folds a-la-Braist. Truss your fowl as for boiling, with the legs in the body; then lay over it a layer of fat bacon cut in thin slices, wrap it round in beet-leaves, then in a caul of veal, and put it into a large saucepan with three pints of water, a glass of Madeira wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three blades of mace, and half a lemon ; stew it till it is quite tender, then take it up aud skim off the fat ; make your gravy pretty thick with flour and POULTR?'. 151 buttei, strain it through a hair sieve, and put to it a pint of oysters and a tea-cupful of thick cream ; keep shaking your pan over the fire, and when it has sim- mered a sliortti ne, serve up your fowl with the hacon, beet-leaves, ai.J caul on, and pom- your sauce hot upon it. Garnish with barberries and red beet-root. Folds forced. Take a 1. rge fowl, pick it clean, draw it, cut it down the b ck, and take the skin off the whole ; cut the flesh iom the bones, and chop it with half a pint of oyste s, one ounce of beef marrow, and a lit- tle pepper and salt. Mix it up with cream ; then lay the meat on ^he bones, draw the skin o^^er it, and sew up the back. Cut large thin slices of bacon, lay theni on the breast of your fowl, and tie them on with pack- thread in diamonds. It will take an hour roasting by amoderate fire. Make a good brown gravy sauce, pour it into your dish, take the bacon oft, lay n your fowl, and serve it up. Garnish with pickles, mushrooms, or oys- ters. It is )roper for a side-dish at dinner, or top-dish for supper. Fowls marinaded. Raise the skin from the breast-bone of a large fowl with your finger ; then take a veal sweetbread and cut it small, a few oysters, a few mushrooms, an anchovy, some pepper, a little nutmeg, some lemon- peel, and a little thyme ; chop all together small, and mix it with the yolk of an Qgg, stuft' it in between the skin and the flesh, but take great care you do not break the skin ; and then put what oysters you please in the body of the fowl. Paper the breast, and roast it. Make good gravy, and garnish with lemon. You may add a few mushrooms to the sauce. Chickens chiringrate. Flatten the breast-bones of your chickens with a rolling-pin, but be careful you do not break the skin. Strew some flom* over them, then frv them in butter ir>* (52 MADE DISHES. of a fine light brown, and drain all the fat out of the pan, hut leave tlie chickens in. Lay a pound of gravy beef, with the same quantity of veal cut into thin slices, over your chickens, together with a little nuice, two or three cloves, some ^^ hole pepper, an onion, a small bunch of sweet lierbs, and a piece of carrot. Then pour in a quart of boiling water, cover it close, and let it stew a quarter o.^ an hour. Then takeout the chickens, and keep them hot : let the gravy boil till it is quite rich and good ; then strain it off, and put it into your pan again, with two spoonsful of red wine and a few mushrooms. Put in your chickens to heat, then take them up, lay them in your dish, and pour your sauce over them. Garnish with lemon, and a few sV'ces of cold ham broiled. Chickens a-la-braise Take a couple of fine chickens, lard them, and BCison them with pepper, salt, and mace ; then put a layer of veal in the bottom of a deep stew-pan, with a slice or two of bacon, an onion cut in pieces, apiece of carrot, and a layer of beef; then put in the chick- ens with the breast downwards, and a bundle of sweet herbs ; after that a layer of beef, and put in a quart of broth or water, cover it close, and let it stew very gently for an hour. In the meantime get ready a ra- goo made thus : take two veal sweetbreads, cut them small, and put them into a saucepan, with a very little broth or water, a few cock's-combs, truffles, and morels cut small, with an ox-palate. Stew them all together, and when your chickens are done, take them up, and keep them hot ; then strain the liquor they were stew- ed in, skim oft' the fat, and pour it into your ragoo ; add a glass of red wine, a spoonful of catsup, and a few mushrooms ; then boil all together vv ith a few artichoke bottoms cut in four, and asparagus tops. If your sauce is not thick enough, put in a piece of butter rol- led in flour : and when properly done, lay your chick- ens in the dish, and oour the ragoo over them. Gar nish with lemon. POULTRY. 153 Chickens in savoury Jelly. Take two chickens, and roast them. Boil some calf '.s feet to a strong jelly ; then take out the feet, and skim off the fat ; beat up the whites of three eggs, and mix them with half a pint of white vinegar, and the juice of three lemons, a blade or two of mace, a few peppercorns, and a little salt. Put tliem to your jelly ; and when it has boiled five or six minutes, strain it se- veral times through a jelly-bag till it is very clear. Then put a little in the bottom of a bowl large enough to hold your chickens, and when they are cold and the jelly set, lay them in with their breasts down. Then fill your bow 1 quite full with the rest of your jelly, which you must take care to keep h'om setting, so that ^vhen you pour it into your bowl it will not break. liCt it stand all night ; and the next day put your ba- sin into warm water, pretty near the top. As soon as you find it loose in the basin, lay your dish over it^ and turn it whole. Chickens and Tongues. Boil six small chickens very white ; then take six hogs' tongues boiled and peeled, a cauliflower boiled whole in milk and water, and a good deal of spinach boiled green. Then lay your cauliflower in the mid- dle, the chickens close all round, and the tongues round them Avith the roots outwards, and the spinach in little heaps between the tongues. Garnish with small pieces of bacon toasted, and lay apiece on each of the tongues. This is a good dish for a large com- pany. Pullets a-la- Sainte Menehout. Having trussed the legs in the body, slit them dow^n the back, spread them open on a table, take out the thigh bones, and beat them with a rolling pin. — Season them with pepper, salt, mace, nutmeg, and sweet herbs. Then take a pound and a half of veal, cut it into thin slices, and lay it in a stew-pan. Cover It close, and set it o\'er -c ^ow fire, and when 't ]«egin9 154 MADE DISHES. to stick to the pan, stir in a little flour, shake it about till it is a little brown, and then pour in as much broth as will stew the fowls. Stir them together, and put in a little ^vhole pepper, an onion, and a slice of bacon or ham. Then lay in your fowls, cover them close, and when they ha\e stewed half an hoin% take them out, lay them on the gridiron to brow n on the inside, and then lay them before the fire to do on the outside. Strew over them the yolk of an c^g, and some crumbs of bread, and baste them with a little butter. Let them be of a fine brown, and boil the gravy till there is about enough for sauce ; then strain it, and put into it a few mushrooms, with a small piece of butter rol- led in flour. Lay the pullets in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon. Ducks a-la-Braise. Having dressed and singed your ducks, lard them quite through w ith bacon rolled in shred parsley, thyme, onions, beaten mace, cloves, pepper, and salt. Put in the bottom of a stew-pan a few slices of fat bacon, the same of ham or gammon of bacon, two or three slices of veal or beef: lay your ducks in with the breasts dow^n, and cover them with slices, the same as put under them ; cut a carrot or two, a turnip, one onion, a head of celery, a blade of mace, four or five cloves, and a little whole pepper. Cover them close down, and let them simmer a little over a gentle fire till the breasts are a light brown ; then put in some broth or water, cover them as close down again as you can : stew them gently two or three hours till enough. Then take some parsley, an onion or shalot, two anchovies, and a few" girkins or capers ; chop them all very fine, put them into a stew -piui w ith part of the liquor from the ducks, a little browning, and the juice of half a le- mon ; boil it up, and cut the ends of the bacon even with the breasts of your ducks, lay them in your dish, pour the sauce liot upon them, and serve them up. Ducks a-la-mode. Take a coup 2 of fine ducks, cut them into quarters, POULTRY. 155 and fry them in butter till they are of a light brown. Then pour out all the fat, dust a little flour over them, and put in half a pint of good gravy, a quarter of a pint of red wine, an anchovy, two shalots, and a bun- dle of sweet herbs : cover them close, and let them stew a quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs, skim off the fat, and thicken your sance with a bit of butter rolled in Hour. Put your ducks into the dish, strain your sauce over them, and send them to table. Gai-nish with lemon or barberries. Ducks a-la-Frangotse. Put two dozen of roasted chesnuts peeled into a pint of rich gravy, with a few leaves of thyme, two small onions, a little whole pepper, and a bit of ginger. Take a fine tame duck, lard it, and half roast it, then put it into the gravy, let it stm\^ ten minutes, and add u quarter of a pint of red wine. When the duck is enough take it out, boil up the gravy to a proper thickness, skim it very clean from the fat, lay the duck in the dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish with lemon. •^ Goose a-la-mode. Pick a large fine goose clean, skin and bone* it nicely, and take off the fat. Then take a dried tongue, and boil and peel it. Take a fowl, and treat it in the same manner as the goose ; season it with pep- per, salt, and beaten mace, and roll it round the tongue. Season the goose in the same manner, and put both tongue and fowl into the goose. Put it into a little pot that will just hold it, with two quarts of beef gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion. Put some slices of ham, or good bacon, between the fowl and goose ; then cover it close, and stew it over a fire for an hour very slowly. Then take up yom' goose, * It may not be fvifliss to inform the cook, that the best method of boning a goose, or fowls of any sort, is to begin at the breast, and to take out the bones without cutting the back ; for without this method, when it is sewed up, and you come to stew it, it generally bursts in the back, whereby the shape of it is spoiled. 156 MADE DISHES. and skim off all the fiit, strain it, and put in a glass of red Avine, two spoonsful of catsup, a veal sweetbread cut small, some trullles, niusln'oonis, and morels, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and, if wanted, some pep per and salt. Put the goose in again, cover it close, and let it stew half an hour longer. Then take it up, pour the ragoo over it, and garnish with lemon. Yon must remember to save the bones of the goose and fowl, and put them into the gravy when it is first set on. It will be an improvement if you roll some beef marrow between the tongue and the fowl, and between the fowl and the goose, as it Avill make them mellow, and eat the finer A Goose marinaded, . Bone your goose, and stuff it with forcemeat made thus : take ten or tv, el\*e sage leaves, two large onions, and two or three large sharp apples ; chop them very fine, and mix them w ith the crinnb of a penny loaf, four ounces of beef marrow, one glass of red wine, half a nutmeg grated, pepper, salt, and a little lemon- peel shred small, and the yolks of four eggs. When you have stuffed your goose with this, sew it up, fry it of a light brown, and then put it into a deep stew- pan, with two quarts of good gravy. Cover it close, and let it stew two hours ; then take it out, put it in- to a dish, and keep it warm. Skim the fat clean off from the gravy, and put into it a large spoonful of lemon-pickle, one of browning, and one of red wine, an anchovy shred fine, a little beaten mace, with pep- per and salt to your palate. Thicken it with flour and butter, dish up your goose, strain the gravy over it, and send it to table. Pigeons Compote. Truss six young pigeons in the same manner as for boiling, and make a forcemeat for them thus : — Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, and scrape a quar- ter of a pound of fat bacon, which Avill answer the purpose better than suet. Chop a little parsley and POULTRY. 157 thjine, two shalots, or an onion, some lemon-peel, and a little nutmeg grated ; season tliem v> ith pepper and salt, and mix them np with eggs. Put this forcemeat into the craA\s of the pigeons, lard tliem down the breast, and fry them brown. Then put them into a stew-pan, with some good brown gravy, and when they have stewed three quarters of an hour, thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour. When you serve them up, strain your gravy over them, and lay forcemeat balls round them. French Piipton of Pigeons. Put savory forcemeat, rolled out like paste, into a butter-dish. Then put a layer of very thin slices of bacon, squab pigeons, sliced sweetbread, asparagus tops, mushrooms, cock's-conibs, a palate boiled tender, and cut into pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boikd hard. Make another forcemeat, and lay it over the whole like a pie-crust. Then bake it, and when it is enough, turn it into a dish, and pour in some good rich gravy. Pigeons a-la-Braise. Pick, draw, and truss some large pigeons, then take a stew-pan, and lay at the bottom some slices of bacon, veal, and onions; season the pigeons with pep- per, salt, some spice beat fine, and sweet herbs. Put them into the stew-pan, and lay upon them some more slices of veal and bacon ; let them stew very gently over a stove, and cover them down very close. When they are stewed, make a ragoo with veal sweetbreads, truffles, morels, champignons; the sweetbreads must be blanched and put into a stew-pan Avith a ladle full of gravy, a Httle ciillis, the truffles, morels, die. Let them all stew together w^ith the pigeons. When they are enough, put them into a dish, and pom* the ragoo over them. Pigeons cm Poise. Cut off the feet of your pigeons, and stuff them with brcemeat in the shape of a pear ; roll them in the volk of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread. Put 1.53 MADE DISHES. thorn into a dish well butterrd, but dc not ict them touch (.'acii othiT, and send them to tlio oven. Wiicn they arc enough, kiy them in a dish, and pour in good gi'avy tiiickened ^Aith tlieyolk of an egg, or butter rol- led in flour; but do n<>t pour your gravy over the pigeons. Carnisli \vi(h lemon. — This is a very gen- teel dish, and may be imj)ro\ ed by tlie following vari- ation; lay one pigeon in the middle, the rest round, and stewed spinach between, w ith poached eggs on the spinach. Garnish with notched lemon and orange cut in quarters, and have melted butter in boats. Ftncandeau of Pigeons. After having larded all the upper part of your pigeons with l)acon, stew them in tlic same manner as the fricandeau a-la-Bourgeoise, page 131. Pigeons a-la-daub. Put a layer of bacon into a large saucepan, then a layer of veal, a layer of coarse beef, and another little layer of veal, about a poimd of beef, and a pound of veal, cut very thin, a piece of carrot, a bundle of SAveet herbs, an onion, some black and white pepper, a blade or two of mace, and four or five cloves. Cover the saucepan close, set it over a slow fire, and draw it till it is brown, to make the gravy of a fine light brown. Then put a quart of boiling water, and let it stew till the gravy is quite rich and good. Strain it oft", and. skim off all the fat. In the meantime, stuff the bellies of the pigeons with forcemeat made thus : take a pound of veal, and a poimd of beef suet, and beat both fine in a mortar ; an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, some pepper, salt, nutmeg, beaten mace, a little lemon- peel cut small, some parsley cut small, and a Aery lit- tle tliyme stripped. Mix all together with the yolks of two eggs, fill the pigeons aa ith this, and flat the breasts doAvn. Flour them, and fry them in fresh but ter a little broAvn Then pour the fat clean out of the pan, and put the giavy to the pigeons. CoAcr tliern dose, and let thrm slew a quarter of an hoiu", or till pouLTRr.. 159 they are quite enough. Then take them up, lay them in a dish, and pour in your sauce. On each pigeon lay a bay-leaf, and on each leaf a slice of bacon. Gar- nish with a If-nion notched. Pigeons a-la- Soiissel. Bone four pigeons, and make a forcemeat as for pigeons compote. StuH' them, and put them into a stcAV-pan witli a pint of veal gravy. Stew them half an hour very gently, and then take them out. In tlie meantime make a veal forcemeat, and wrap it all round them. Rub it over w ith the yolk of an CQ;g, and fry them of a nice brown in good dripping. Take the gravy they w^ere stewed in, skim off the ftit, thicken with a little butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg, and a gill of cream beat up. Season it with pepper and salt, uiix it altogether, and keep it stirring one way till it is smooth. Strain it into your dish, and putthe pigeons on. Garnish with plenty of fried parsley. Pigeons in a Hole. Pick, draw, and wasli four young pigeons, stick tlieir legs in their bellies as you do boiled pigeons, and season them with pepper, salt, and beaten mace. Put into the belly of each pigeon a lump of butter the size of a w^alnut. Lay your pigeons in a pie-dish, pour over them a batter made of three eggs, two spoons- ful of flour, and half a pint of good milk. Bake them in a moderate oven, and serve them to table in the same dish. Jugged Pigeons. Pluck and draw six pigeons, w^asli them clean, and dry them w^ith a cloth ; season them w* ith beaten mace, wiiite pepper, and salt. Put them into a jug with half a pound of butter upon them. Stop up the jug close with a cloth, that no steam can get out, then set in a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil an hour and a half Then take out your pigeons, put the gra- vy that is come from them into a pan, and add to it a spoonful of wine, one of catsup, a slice of lemon, hali 14 I()0 MADE DISHES. an anchovy chopped, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Boil it a little, and then Miicken it with a piece of butter rolled in Hour; lay your pii^eons in the dish, and strain your gra\y over them. Garnish with parsley and red cabbage. — This makes a very pretty side or corner dish. Partridges a-la-Braise. Take two brace of partridges, and truss the legs in- to the bodies ; lard thein, and season w ith beaten mace, pepper, and salt. Take a stew-pan, lay slices of ba- con at the bottom, then slices of beef, and then slices of veal, all cut thin, a piece of carrot, an onion cut small, a binidle of sweet herbs, and some whole pepper. Put in the partridges with the breasts downwards, lay some thin slices of beef and veal over them, and some parsley slired fine. Cover them, and let them stew eight or ten minutes over a slow fire ; then give yom* pan a shake, and pour in a pint of boiling water. Co- ver it close, and let it stew half an hoiu* over a little quicker fire ; then take out your birds, keep them hot, povu' into the pan a pint of thin gravy, let them boil till there is about half a pint, then strain it off, and skim off all the fat. In the meantime have a veal sweetbread cut small, truffles and morels, cock's-combs, and fowls' livers stew^ed in a pint of good gravy half an hour, some artichoke-bottoms and asparagus tops, both blanched in warm water, and a few^ mushrooms. Then add the otlier gravy to this, and put in yoiu" partridges to heat. If it is not thick enough, put in a piece of butter rolled in flour. When thoroughly hot, put in your partridges into the dish, pour tiie saucp ovei' them, and serve them to table. Pheasants a-la-Braise. Cover the bottom of your stew-pan with a layer of beef, a layer of veal, a little piece of bacon, a piece of carrot, an onion stuck with cloves, a blade or two of mace, a spoonful of pepper, black and white, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Having done this, put in your pheasant, and cover it w- ith a layer c)f beef and a layer SAME. IGl of veal Set it on the lire for ilve or six minutes, and tlien pour in two quarts of boiling gravy. Cover it close, and let it stew very gently an iionr and a half. Then take up your pheasant, and keep it hot ; let the gravy boil till it is reduced to about a pint, then strain it off, and put it in again. Put in a veal sweetbread tiiat has been stewed with the pheasant, some truffles and morels, livers of fowls, artichoke-bottoms, and (if you have them) asparagus tops. Let these simmer in the gravy about five or six minutes, and then add tv\ o spoonsful of catsup, two of red wine, a spoonful of browning, and a little piece of butter rolled in flour. Shake all together, then put in yom- pheasant, with a few mushrooms, and let them stew about five or six minutes more. Then take up yom* pheasant, pour the ragoo over it, and lay forcemeat-balls round. Garnish with lemon. Snipes, or Woodcocks, in surtont. Take some forcemeat made of veal, as much beef- suet chopped and beat in a mortar, with an equal quantity of crumbs of bread; mix in a little beaten mace, ■ pepper and salt, some parsley, a few sweet herbs, and the yolk of an egg. Lay some of this meat round the dish, and then put in the snipes, being first drawn and lialf roasted. Take care of the trail, chop it, and scatter it all o^ er the dish. Take some good gravy, according to the bigness of \ our surtout, some truffles and morels, a few muslu'ooms, a sweetbread cut into pieces, and artichoke-bottoms cut small. Let all stew together, shake them, and take the yolks of two or three eggs, beat them up witii a spoonful or tv>'o of white wine, and stu' all together one way. When it is thick, take it off, let it cool, and pour it into the surtout. Put in the yolks of a few hard egos here and there, season Avith beaten mace, pepper, and salt, to your taste ; cover with the forcemeat iiW over, then rub on the yolks of eggs to colour it, and send it to the oven. Half an hour will do it sufficiently. Snipes, with Purslciin Leaves. Or AW your snipes, and mak<^ m forcemeat for the {02. MADE DISHES. Inside, l3ut preserve your ropes for your sauce; spit them across upon a lark-sj)it, covered witli bacon and paper, and roast them gjently. For sauce you must take some prime thick leaves of purshiin, hlanch them well in water, put them into a laille of cullis and gra- \y, a bit of shalot, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and parsley, and stew all together for half an hour gently. Have the ropes ready blanched and put in. Dish up your snipes upon thin slices of bread fried,, squeeze the juice of an orange into your sauce, and serve them up. harks a-la-Frangoise. Truss your larks with the legs across, and put a sage-leaf over the breasts. Put them on a long thin skew^er, and between every lark put a thin bit of ba- con. Then tie the skewer to a spit, and roast them before a clear brisk fire ; baste them Avith butter, and strew^ over them some crumbs of bread mixed with flour. Fry some crumbs of bread of a fine brown in butter. Lay the larks round the dish, and the bread- crumbs in the middle. Florendine Hares. Let your hare be a full-grown one, and let it hang up four or five days before you case it. Leave on the ears, but take out all the bones except those of the head, W'hich must be left entire. Lay your hare on the table, and put into it the following forcemeat : take the crumb of a two-penny loaf, the liver shred fine, half a pound of fat bacon scraped, a glass of red wine, an anchovy, two eggs, a little winter savory, some sweet-marjorum, thyme, and a little pepper, salt, and mitmeg. Having put this into the belly, roll it up to tiie head, and flisten it w ith packthread, as you would a collar of veal. Wrap it in a cloth, and boil it an hour and a half in a saucepan, covered with two quarts of water. As soon as the liquor is reduced to about a quart, put in a pint of red wine, a spoonful of lemon- pickle, one of catsup, and the same of brow^ning. Then Btew it till it is reduced to a pint, and tliicken it with GAME. 16^ butter rolled in flour. Lay round your hare a few niorels, and four slices of forcemeat boiled in a caul of a leg of veal. When you dish it up, draw the jaw- bones, and stick them in the sockets of the eves. Let the ears lie back on the roll, and stick a sprig of myrtle in the mouth. Strain your sauce over it, and garnish with barberries and parsley. Florendine Rabbits. Skin three young rabbits, but leave on the ears, and wash and dry them with a cloth. Take out the bones as carefully as you can, but leave the head whole, and proceed in the same manner as before di- rected for the hare. Have ready a white sauce made of veal gravy, a little anchovy, and the juice of half a lemoUj, or a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle. Strain it, and then put in a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, so as to make the sauce pretty thick. Beat up the yolk of an egg, put to it some thick cream, nutmeg, and salt, and mix it with the gravy. Let it simmer a little over the fire, but not boil, then pour it over your rabbits, and serve them up. Garnish with lemon and barberries. Jugged Hare. Cut your hare into small pieces, and lard tfiem here and there with little slips of bacon, season them with pepper and salt, and put them in an earthen jug, with a blade or two of mace, an onion stuck with cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Gov er the jug close, that nothing may get in ; set it in a pot of boiling wa- ter, and three hours will do it. Then turn it into the dish, take out the onion and sweet herbs, and send it hot to table. Rabbits surprised. Take two young rabbits, skewer them, and put the same kind of pudding in them as for roasted rab- bits. When they are roasted, take off the meat clean from the bones; but leave the bones whole. Chop the meat very fine, with a little shred parsley, some iemon-ix'el, an ounce of beef marrow, a spoonful of 14* 164 MADE DISHES. cream, and a little salt. Beat up the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and a small piece of butter, in a marble mortar : then mix all together, and put it into a stew- pan. Having stewed it live minutes, lay it on the rab- bits, where you took the m<'at oil', and put it close down with yonr hand, to make them appear like A\ hole rabbits. Then with a salamander brown them all t>\ er. Pour a good brown gravy, made as thick as cream, into the dish, and stick a bunch of myrtle in their mouths. Send them up to table, with their livers boiled and frothed. Rabbits en Casserole. Cut your rabbits into quarters, and then lard them or not, just as you please. Shake some flour over them, and fry them in lard or butter. Then put them into an earthen pipkin, with a quart of good broth, a glass of white wine, a little pepper and salt, a bunch oi sw^eet herbs, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Cover them close, and let them stew half an hour; then dish them up, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish wath Seville oranges cut into thin slices and notched. JMacaroni. Broil four ounces of macaroni till it is quite tender, then lay it on a sieve to drain, and put it into a stew- pan, with about a gill of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Boil it five minutes, pour it on a plate. Lay Parmasan cheese roasted all over it, and send it up in a water-plate. Jlmulets. Take six eggs, beat them up as fine as you can, strain them through a hair sieve, and put them into a frying-pan, in which must be a quarter of a pound of hot butter. Throw in a little ham scraped fine, with shred parsley, and season them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Fry it brown on the under side, and lay it on your dish, but do not turn it. Hold a hot salaman der over it for half a minute, tc take off" tlie ra^v VEGETABLES, ^C. 166 look of the eggs. Stick curled parsley i.i it, and sen^e it up. Amulets of Asparagus. Beat up six eggs with cream, boil some of the largest and hnest asparagus, and, when boiled, cut ofl all the green in small pieces. Mcc them with tlie eggs, and put in some pepper and salt. Make a slice of butter hot in the pan, put them in, and serve them up on buttered toast. Oyster Loaves. ]>Iake a hole in the top of some little ronnd loaves, and take out all the crumb. Put some oysters into a stew-pan, with the oyster liquor, and the crumbs that were taken out of the loaves, and a large piece of but- ter ; stew them together live or six minutes, then put in a spoonful of good cream, tlien fill your loaves. Lay a bit of crust carefully on the top of each, and put tliem in the oven to crisp. J\Iushroom Loaves. Take some small buttons, and wash them as for pickling. Boil them a few minutes in a little water, and put to them two large spoonsful of cream, with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and a little salt and pepper. Boil these up, then fill your loaves, and do them in the same manner as directed in the preceding article. Esgs in Surtout. Boil half a pound of bacon cut into thin slices, and fi-y some bits of bread in butter: put three spoonsful of cullis into your dish, garnish the rim with fried bread, break some eggs in the middle, cover them with the rashers of bacon, and dotliem over a slow fire. Eggs and Broccoli. Boil your broccoli tender, observing to save a large bunch for the middle, and six or eight little thick sprigs to stick round. Toast a bit of bread as large as you would have it for 3^our dish or butter plate. Butter souKi eggs, thus : take six eggs or as many as you 166 VEGETABLES. have occasion for, beat them ^vell, put them into a saucepan, witli a j^ood piece of butter and a little salt; keep beating tlieni with a s[X)on till they are thick enough, and then pour them on the toast. Set the largest bunch of broccoli in the middle, and the other little })ieces round and about. Garnish the dish with little sprigs of broccob. This is a pretty side dish or corner plate. Spinach and E^gs. Pick and wash your spinach very clean in several waters, then put it into a saucepan with a little salt ; cover it close, and shake the pan often. When it is just tender, and whilst it is green, tln'owit into a sieve to drain, and then lay it in your dish. Have ready a stew^-pan of w^ater boiling, and break as many eggs in- to cups -as you would poach. When the w^ater boils put in the eggs, have an egg slice ready to take them out with, lay tliem on the spinach, and serve them up with melted butter in a cup. Garnish with orange cut into quarters. To make Ramekins. Put a bit of Parmasan cheese into a stew-pan, bruising it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a gill of water, very little salt, and an anchovy cut small ; boil the whole well together, and put in as much flour as the sauce will suck up ; keep it over the fire till it forms a thick paste; then put it into a stew-pan with the yolks of a doi^en eggs, and b?at up the whites quite stiff till they will bear an egg, then mix tiie whites with the rest. Drop them into square paper cases. If well made, the ramekins will be of a light and of a fine colour. CHAPTER XIII. VEGETABLES and ROOTS. IN dressing these articles, the greatest attention must be paid to cleanliness. They are, particularly at some VEGETABLES. 167 times of the year, subject to dust, dirt, and insects, so that if they are not properly cleansed, they will be unsatisfactory to those for ^n lioiu they are provided, and disreputable to the cook. To a\oid this, be care- ful first to pick oliall the outside leaves, then wash them w ell in several waters, and let them lie some time in a pan of clean water before you dress them. Be sure your saucepan is thoroughly clean, and boil them by themselves in plenty of water. They should always be brought crisp to table, which will be effected by be- ing careful not to boil them too much. Such are the general observations necessary to be attended to in dressing of Vegetables and Roots. We shall now proceed to particulars, beginning with t^sparagus. Scrape all the stalks very carefully till they look white, then cut them all even alike, and throw them into a pan of clean water, and have ready a stew-pan with water boiling. Put some salt in, and when they are a little tender take them up. If you boil them too much, they will lose both their colour and taste. Cut the roundoff a small loaf, about half an inch thick, and toast it brown on both sides : then dip it into the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in your dish. Pour a little melted butter over your toast, then lay your asparagus on the toast all round your dish, with the heads inwards, and send it to table, with melted butter in a basin. Some pour melted butter over them, but this is injudicious, as it makes the hand- ling them very disagreeable. Artichokes. Twist off the stalks, then put them into cold water, and wash them well. When the water boils, put them in with the tops dowmw^ards, that all the dust and sand may boil out. About an hour and a half, or two hours, ^vill do them. Serve them up w ith melted butter in cups. Broccoli. Carefully strip off all the little branches till you 1G8 VEGETAHLES. come to the top one, and then with a knife peel ofl the hard outside skin that is on the staiks and little branches, and (hrou them into water. Have ready a stew-pan of water, thro\v in a Httle salt, and when it boils, put in your broccoli. When the stalks are tender, it is enough. Put in apiece of toasted bread, soaked in the water the broccoli was boiled in at the bottom of your dish, and put your broccoli on the top of it, as you do asparagus. Send them up to table laid in bunches, w ith butter in a boat. Caidijloiotrs. Take oll'tiie green part, then cut the flower into four parts, and lay them in water for an hour. Then have some milk and water boiling, put in the cauli- flowers, and be sure to skim the saucepan well. When tlie stalks feel tender, take up the flowers carefully, and put them in a cullender to drain. Then put a spoonful of water into a clean stew-pan, with a little dust of flour, about a quarter of a pound of butter, a little pepper and salt, and shake it round till the but- ter is melted, and the whole well mixed together. Then take half the cauliflower, and cut it as you would for pickling. Lay it into the stew-pan, turn it, and sliake the pan round for about ten minutes, which will be sufl[icient time to do it properly. Lay the stew ed in the middle of your plate, the boiled round it, and pour over it the butter in which the one-half was stewed. This is a delicate mode of dressing cauli- flowers; but the usual way is as follows: cut the stalks oft', leave a little green on, and boil them in spring water and salt for about fifteen minutes. Then take them out, drain them, and send them whole to table, with melted butter in a sauce-boat. Green Peas. Let your peas be shelled as short a time as you can before they p.re dressed, as otherwise they Avill lose a great part of their sweetness. Put them into Iwiling water, witii a little salt and a lump of loaf sugar, and VEGETABLES. 1 C9 when they begin to dent in the middle, the} are enough. Put them into a sieve, drain the water elear from them, and pour them into your dish. Put in them a good lump of butter, and stir them about with a spoon till it is thoroughly melted. Mix with them likewise a little pepper and salt. Boil a small bunch of mint by itself, chop it fine, and lay it in lumps round the edge of your dish. Melted butter is sometimes preferred to mixing it with the peas. Windsor Beans. These must be boiled in plenty of water, with a good quantity of salt in it, and when they feel tenrder, are enough. Boil and chop some parsley, put it into good melted butter, and serve them up with boiled bacon, and the butter and parsley, in a boat. Remem- ber never to boil them with bacon, as that will greatly discolour them. Kidney Beans. First carefully string them, then slit them down the middle, and cut them acvoss. Put them into salt and water, and when the water boils in your sauce- pan, put them in with a little salt. They will be soon done, w^iich may be known by their feeling tender. Drain the water clear from them, lay them in a plate, and send them up with butter in a sauce-boat. Spinach. Be careful to pick it exceeding clean, then wash it in five or six waters, put if; into a saucepan that will just hold it, without water, throw a little salt over it, and cover it close. Put your saucepan on a clear quick fire, and when you find the spinach shrunk and fallen to the bottom, and the liquor that comes out boils up, it is done. Then put it into a clean sieve to drain, and just give it a gentle squeeze. Lay it on d plate, and send it to table, with melted butter in a boat. Cabbages. After you have taken off the outer leaves, ana well washed them, quarter them, and ])oil them m 170 ROOTS. plenty of water, witli :i handful of salt. When they are tender, drain them on a sieve, but do not press tiiem. Savoys and greens must be lx)iled in the same manner, but always by themselves, by which meana they will eat crisp, and be of a good colour. Turnij^s. These may be boiled in the same pot with your meat, and, indeed, will eat best if so done. When they are enough, take them out, put them into a pan, mash them ^vith butter, and a little salt, and in that state send them to table. A^jother method of boiling turnips is thus : Wher you have pared them, cut them into little square pieces, then put them into a saucepan, and just cover them with water. As soon as they are enough, take them off the fire, and put them into a sieve to drain. Then put them into a saucepan, with a good piece of butter, stir them over the fire a few minutes, put them into your di.sh, and serve them up. Cari^ots. Scrape your carrots very clean, put them into the pot, and when they .ire enough, take them out and rub them in a clean cloth. Then slice them into a plate, and pom' some melted butter over them. If they are young, half an hour will sufficiently boil them. Pc(7\snij)s. These must be boiled in plenty of water, and when they are soft, which you may know^ by running a fork into them, take them up. Scrape them all fine with a knife, throw awfly all the sticky part, and send them to table, with melted butter in a sauce-boat. Potatoes. These must be boiled in so small a quantity of water as will be just sufficient to keep the saucepan from bm-ning. Keep them close covered, and as soon as the skins begin to crack, they are enough. Having drained oi;t all the water, let them remain in the saiicC' pan covered for two or three minutes ; then peel them, BOILED PUDDINGS. 171 lay them in a olate, and pour some melted butter over them. Or ^vhen you have peeled them, you may do thus : lay them on the gridiron till they are of a fine brown, and then send them to table. Potatoes scolloped. Having boiled your potatoes, beat them fine in a bowl, with s< :ue cream, a large piece of butter, and a little salt. Put them into scollop-shells, make tliem smooth on the top, score them Avith a knife, and lay thin slices of butter on the tops of them. Then put them into a Dutch oven to brown before the fire. — This makes a pretty dish for a light supper. Hops. They are to be boiled in water, with a little salt, and eat as a salad, with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. CHAPTER XIV. PUDDINGS. IN tliis degree of cookery some previous and gene- ral observations are necessary, the most material ol which are, first, that your cloth be thoroughly clean, and before you put your pudding into it, dip it into boiling Avater, streAV some flour over it, and then give it a shake. If it is a bread pudding, tie it loose ; but if a batter pudding, close; andncAerput your pudding in till the Avater boils. All bread and custard puddings that are baked require time and a moderate oven ; but batter and rice puddings a qi ick oven. Before you put your pudding into the dish for baking be carefiil ahvays to moisten the bottom and sides Avith butter. SFXT. I. BOILED PUDDINGS. Bread Pudding. Take the crumb of a penny loaf, cut it into very 15 172 BOILED. tlirn slices, put it into a quart of milk, and set it over a a chaling-disli of coals till the bread has soaked up al the milk. Then put in a piece of butter, stir it round, ami let it stand till it is cold; or you may lx)il your milk, and pour it over the bread, and cover it up close, which \vill equally answer the same purpose. Then take the yolks of six eggs, the Avhites of three, and beat them up with a little rose-water and nutmeg, and a little salt and sugar. Mix all well together, and put it into your cloth, tie it loose to give it room to swell, and boil it an hour. When done, put it into your dish, pour melted butter over, and serve it tc table. Another, but more expensive, way of making a bread-pudding is this : cut thin all the crumb of a stale peiuiy loaf, and put it into a quart of cream, set it over a slow fire, till it is scalding hot, and then let it stand till it is cold. Beat up the bread and the cream well together, and grate in some nutmeg. Take twelve bitter almonds, boil them in tw o spoonsful of water, pour the water to the cream, stir it in with a little salt, and sweeten it to your taste. Blanch the almonds in a mortar, with two spoonsful of rose or orange-flower water, till they are a fine paste ; then mix them by degrees with the cream. Take the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four, beat them up well, jiut them into the cream likewise, and mix the whok well to- gether. Dip your cloth into warm water, and flour it well, before you put in the pudding; tie it loose, and let it boil an hour. Take care the water boils when you put it in, and that it keeps so all the time. When it is enough, turn it into yoiu' dish. Melt some but- ter, and put in it two or three spoonsful of white wine or sack ; give it a boil, and pour it over your pudding. Then strew a good deal of fine sugar over your pud- ding and dish, and send it hot to table. Instead of a cloth, you may boil it in a bowl or basin, which is in- deed the better way of the two. In this case, when it is enough, take it up in the basin, and let it stand a minute or two to cool; then untie the straig, wrap PUDDINGS. 173 tlie clotli round the basin, lay yoiu- dish over it, and turn the padding ont ; then take off the basin and cloth with great care, otherwise a hght pudding will be sub- ject to break in turning out. Batter Pudding. Take a quart of milk, beat up the yolks of six eggs, and the whites of three, and mix them with a quarter of a pint of milk. Then take six spoonsful of ilour, a tea-spoonful of salt, and one of ginger. Put to these the remainder of the milk, mix all well together, put it into your cloth, and boil it an hour and a quarter. Pour melted butter over it when you serve it up. A batter pudding may be made without eggs, in which case proceed thus : take a quart of milk, mix six spoonsful of flom* with a little of the milk first, a tea-spoonful of salt, two of beaten ginger, and two of the tincture of saffron. Then mix all together, and boil it an hour. Custard Pudding. Put a piece of cinnamon into a pint of thick cream, boil it, and add a quarter of a pound of sugar. When cold, put in t!ie yolks of five eggs well beaten : stir this over the fire till it is pretty thick, but be careful it does not boil. When quite cold, butter a clotli well, dust it with flour, tie the custard in it very close, and boil it three quarters of an hour. When you take it up put it into a basin to cool a little; untie the cloth, lay the dish on the basin, and turn it carefully out. Grate over it a little sugar, and serv^e it up with melted butter and a little wine in a boat. QuaJdng Pudding. Take a quart of cream, boil it, and let it stand till almost cold; then beat up four eggs very fine, with a spoonful and a half of flour : mix them well with your cream : add sugar and nutmeg to your palate. Tie it close up in a cloth well buttered. Let it boil an hour, and then turn it carefully out Pour over it melted buttrr. 174 BOILED Sago Pudding. Boil two ounces of sago in a pint of milk till ten dcr. When cold, add live eggs, two Naples biscuits, a little brandy, ind sugar to the taste. Boil it in a basin, and servt it up with melted butter, and a little wine and sug-ar. J\/larroio Pudding. Grate a small loaf into crumbs, and pour on them a pint of boiling hot cream. Cut a pound of beef mar- row ve]-y thin, beat up four eggs well, and then add a glass of brandy, with sugar and nutmeg to yoiu* taste. lilix them all well together, and boil it three quarters of an hour. Cut two ounces of citron into very thin bits, and when you dish up your pudding, stick them all over it. Biscuit Pudding. Pour a pint of boiling milk or cream over sLx pen- ny Naples biscuits grated, and cover it close. When cold, add the yolks of four eggs, the whites of two, some nutmeg, a little brandy, half a spoonful of flour, and some sugar. Boil it an hour in a china basin, and serve it up with melted butter, wine, and sugar. Almond Pudding. Take a pound of sweet almonds, and beat them as fine as possible, with three spoonsful of rose-water, and a gill of sack or white wine. Mix in half a pound of fresh butter melted, with fwe yolks of eggs, and two whites, a quart of cream, a quarter of a pound of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, one spoonful of flour, and three spoonsful of crumbs of bread. Mix all well to- gether, and boil it. Half an hour will do it. Tansey Pu dding . Put as much boiling cream to four Naples biscuits grated as will wet them, beat them with the yolks of four eggs. Have ready a few chopped tansey-leaves, with as much sphiach as will make it pretty green. Be careful not to put too n.uch tansey in, because it will make it bitter. Mix all toijether when the cream PUDDINGS. 175 is cold, with a little sugar, and set it over a slow lire till it gi'ows tliick, tlieu take it off, and, when cold, put it in a cloth, well buttered and floured ; tie it up close, and let it boil three quarters of an hoin* ; then take it up in a basin, and let it stand one quarter, then turn it carefully out, and put white wine sauce round it. Or you may do it thus : Take a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch them, and beat them very hue with rose-water; slice a French roll verv thin, put in a pint of cream boiling hot; beat four eggs very well, and mix with the eggs, when bea'ten, a little sugar and grated nutmeg, a glass of brandy, a little juice of tansey, and the juice of spinach to make it green. Put all the ingredients into a stew-pan, with a quarter of a pomid of butter, and give it a gentle boil. You may either put it into a cloth and boil it, or bake it in a dish. Herb Pudding. Steep a quart of grits in warm water half an hour, and then cut a pound of hog's lard into little bits. Take of spinach, beet:^, parsley, and leeks, a handful of each: three large onions chopped small, and three sage leaves cut very fine. Put in a little salt, mix all well together, and tie it close. It will require to be taken up while boiling, in order to loosen the string. Spinach Pudding. Pick and wash clean a quarter of a peck of spinach, put it into a saucepan with a little salt, cover it close, and when it is boiled just tender, throw it into a sieve to drain. Then chop it with a knife, beat up six eggs, and mix with it half a pint of cream, and a stale roll grated fine, a little nutmeg, and a quarter of a poimd of melted butter. Stir all well together, put it nito tlie saucepan in which you boiled the spinacli, and keep stirring it all the time till it begins to thicken. Then wet and flour your cloth well, tie it u}>, and boii it an hour. When done, turn it into your dish, pou'* 176 BOILED melted butter o\ cr it, with the juice of Seville orange and strew on a little grated sugar. Cream, Pudding. J3oiL a quart of cream with a blade of mace, and half a nutmeg grated, and then let it stand to cool. Beat up eight eggs, and tlirec whites, and strain them well. Mix a spoonful of flour with them, a quarter of a poimd of ahnonds blanched and beat very fine, witli a spoonful of orange-flower or ro;md of bacon, and bruise it to 196 MEAT PATTIES. pieces in a marble mortar, with the hvers, some pepper, salt, a little mace, some parsley cut small, some chives, and a few leaves of sweet basil. When these are all beaten line, make the paste, and cover the bottom of the pie with the seasoning. Then put in the ra jbits, pound some more bacon in a mortar, and with it some fresh butter. Cover the rabbits with this, and lay over it some thin slices of bacon ; put on the lid, and send it to the oven. It will tak'^ two hours baking. When it is done, remove the lid, take out the bacon, and skim off the fat. If there is not gravy enough in the pie, poin' in some rich mutton or veal gravy boiling hot. Another Method of making a llabbit Pie, and which is particularly done in the County of Salop. Cut two rabbits into pieces, with two pounds of fat pork cut small, and season both with pepper and salt to your taste. Then make a good pulT-paste crust, cover your dish with it, and lay in your rabbits. Mix the pork w-ith them ; but take the livers of the rabbits, parboil them, and beat them in a mortar, with the same quantity of fat bacon, and a little sweet herbs, and some oysters. Season w ith pepper, salt, and nut- meg, mix it up with the yolk of an e^s,, and make it into little balls. Scatter them about your pie, with some artichoke bottoms cut in dices, and some cock's- combs, if you have them. Grate a small nutmeg over the meat, then pour in half a pint of red wine, and half a pint of w ater. Close your pie, and bake it an hour and a half in a quick but not too fierce an oven. Fine Patties. Take any quantity of either turkey, house-lamb, or cliicken, and slice it with an equal quantity of the fat of lamb, loin of veal, or the inside of a sirlom of beef, and a little parsley, thyme, and lemon-peel shred. Put all into a marble mortar, pound it very fine, and season it w ith salt and w hite pepper. Make a fine puil-paste, roll it out mto thin square sheets, and put FRUIT PIES. 199 the mea', in the middle. Cover the patties, close them all rounds cut the paste even, wash them over A\'ith tlie yolk of an egg, and bake them twenty minutes in a quick oven, lldxc ready a little white gravy, season- ed with pepper, salt, and a little shalot, thickened up with cream, or butter. When the patties come out of the oven, make a hole in the top, and pour in some gravy ; but take care not to put in too much, lest it should run out at the sides, and spoil the appearance. To make any Sort of Timhah. Make your paste thus : take a pound of flour, mix it well with a little water, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter or hog"s lard, the yolks of two eggs, and a little salt; knead this paste well, that it may be firm; take a part and roll it to the sides of your stew-pan, put it in the bottom and round tlie sides, that it may take the form of the stew-pan; then put in any meat or fish you may think fit. You nnist butter your^tew- pan well, to make it tm*n out. Cover it with what paste remains, and send it to the oven ; or bury the stew-pan in hot embers, and cover it with a lid that will admit fire on tlie top. When turned out of the stew-pan, cut a hole in the top, and put in a rich gra- vy ; replace the bit of crust, and serve it up. SECT. III. FRUIT PIES, &c. Apple Pie. Make a good puiT-paste crust, and put it round the edge of your dish. Pare and quarter your apples, and take out the cores. Then lay a thick row of apples, and put in half the sugar you intend to use for yom* pie. Mince a little lemon-peel fine, spread it over the su- gar and apples, squeeze in a little juice of a lemon; then scatter a few cloves over it, and lay en the rest 17* 200 FRUIT PIES. of your apples and sugar, -with another small squeeze of the juice of a lemon. l>oil (he jjarings of the apjiles and cores in some water, w ith a hlade of mace, till the flavour is extracted; strain it, put in a little sugar, and l)oil it till it is reduced to a small quantity; then pour it into your pie, put on your crust, and send it to the oven. You may add to the apples a little quince or marmalade, whicli ^^ ill greatly enrich the flavour. When the pie comes from the oven, beat up the yolks of two eggs, with half a pint of cream, and a little nut- meg and sugar. Put it over a slow fire, and keep stirring it till it is near boiling; then take oft* the lid of the pie, and pour it in. Cut the crust into small three-corner pieces, and stick them about the pie. A pear pie must be done in the same manner, only the quince or marmalade must be omitted Apple Tart. Scald eight or ten large codlins, let them stand till they are cold, and then take off" the skins. Beat the pulp as fine as possible with a spoon ; then mix the yolks of six eggs, and the w bites of four. Beat all to- gether very fine, put in some grated nutmeg, and sw^eeten it to your taste. Melt some good fresh but- ter, and beat it till it is of the consistence of fine thick cream. Then make a putf-paste, and cover a tin pat- ty-pan with it; pour in the ingredients, but do not cover it with the paste. When you have baked it a quarter of an hour, slip it out of the patty-pan on a dish, and strew over it some sugar finely beaten and sifted. Cherry Pie. Having made a good crust, lay a little of it roimd the sides of your dish, and strew sngar at the bottom. Then lay in your fruit, and some sugar at the top. Put on your lid, and bake it in a slack oven. If you mix some currants with the cherries, it will be a consider- able addition. A plum or gooseberry pie may be made in the same manner. FRUIT PIES, t^C. 201 Mince Pies. Shred chree pounds of meat very fine, and chop it as small as possible ; take two pounds of raisins stoned and chopped very fine, the same quantity of currants, nicely picked, washed, rubbed, and dried at the fire. Pare half a hundred fine pippins, core them, and chop them small, take half a pound of fine sugar, and pound it fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and two large nutmegs, all beat fine, put them all into a large pan, and mix them well to- gether with half a pint of brandy, and half a pint of sack, put it down close in a stone pot, and it will keep good tliree or four months. When you make your pies, take a little dish, somewhat larger than a soup plate, lay a very thin crust all over it; lay a thin layer of meat, and then a layer of citron, cut very thin, then a layer of mincemeat, and a layer of orange-peel, cut thin ; over that a little meat ; squeeze half the juice ofa fine Seville orange or lemon, lay on your crust, and bake it nicely. These pies eat very fine cold. If you make them in little patties, mix your meats and sweet- meats accordingly. If you choose meat in your pies, parboil a neat's tongue, peel it, and chop the meat as fine as possible, and mix with the rest ; or two pounds of the inside of a sirloin of beef boiled. But when you use meat, the quantity of fruit must be doubled. Another Method of making Mince Pies. Take a neat's tongue, and boil it two hours, then skin it, and chop it exceeding small. Chop very small three pounds of beef suet, three pounds of good baking apples, four pounds of currants clean washed, picked, and w^ell dried before the fire, a pound of jar raisins stoned and chopped small, and a pound of powder sugar. Mix them all together, with half an ounce of mace, as much nutmeg, a quarter of an «unce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and a pint of French brandy. Make a rich pufl'-paste, and as you fill up the pie, put in a little candied citron and orange, No. 9. 2 C 202 FPUIT PIES, i!f'C. cut in little pieces. Wluit mincemeat yon have to spare, put close down in a pot, and cover it up ; but never put any citron or orange to it till you use it. To make Mincemeat. Take a pound of beef, a pound of apples, two pounds of suet, two pounds of sugar, two pounds of currants, one pound of candied lemoi. or orange-peel, a quarter of a pound of citron, an ounce of fine spices mixed together ; half an ounce of salt, and six rinds of lemon shred fine. Let the whole of these ingredi- ents be well mixed, adding brandy and wine sufficient to your palate. Orange and Lemon Tarts. Take six large oranges or lemons, rub them well with salt, and put them into water, with a handful of salt in it, for two days. Then change them every day with fresh water, without salt, for a fortnight. Boil them till they are tender, and then cut them into half quarters corner-ways as thin as possible. Take six pippins pareo cored, and quartered, and put them in- to aomii oi'Avater. Let them boil till tliey break, then put .10 lienor to your oranges or lemons, half the pulp of lUe pippins well broken, and a poimd of sugar. — Boil these together a quarter of an hour, then put it into a pot; and squeeze into it either the juice of an orange or lemon, according to which of the tarts you intend to make. Two spoonsful will be sufficient to give a proper flavour to your tart. Put fine puff'-paste, and very thin, into your patty-pans, which must be • small and shallow. Before you put your tarts into the oven, take a feather or brush, and rub them over with melted butter, and then sift some double refined sugar over them, which ^vill form a pretty icing, and make them have a pleasing effect on the eye. « Tart cle moi. Put round your dish a ])uiT-paste, and then a layer of biscuit ; then a layer of butter and marrow, another of all sorts of sweetmeats, or as many as you have. PISH PIES. 203 and thus proceed till your dish is full. Then boil a quart of creairi, thicken it Avith 3ggs, and put in a spoonful of orange-flower water. Sweeten it with sugar to your taste, and pour it over the whole. Half an hour will hake it. Artichoke Pie. Boil twelve artichokes, break off the leaves and chokes, and take tlie bottoms clear from the stalks. Make a good piift-paste crust, and lay a quarter of a pound of fresh butter all over the bottom of your pie. Then lay a row of artichokes, strew a little pepper, salt, and beaten mace over them, then another row, strew the rest of your spice over them, and put in a quarter of a pound more of butter cut in little bits. Take half an ounce of truflles and morels, and boil them in a quarter of a pint of water. Pour the water into the pie, cut the truflles and morels very small, and throw them all over the pie. Pour in a gill of white wine, cover your pie, and bake it. When the crust is done, the pie will be enough. Vermicelli Pie. Season four pigeons with a little pepper and salt; stuff them with a piece of butter, a few crumbs of bread, and a little parsley cut small ; butter a deep earthen dish well, and then cover the bottom of it with two ounces of vermicelli. Make a puff-paste, roll it pretty thick, and lay it on the dish, then lay in the pigeons, the breasts downwards, put a thick lid on the pie, and bake it in a moderate oven. When it is enough, take a dish proper for it to be sent to table in, and turn the pie on it. The vermicelli will be then on the top, and have a pleasing effect. SECT. IV, FISH PIES, Eel Pie. When you have skinned, gutted, and washed your eels very clean, cut them into p-oces about an inch and 204 FISH PIES a half long. Season tlicm Avith pepper, salt, and a little dried sage rubl)ed small. Put them into your dish, with as mucii water as will just cover them. Make a good pull-paste, lay on the lid, and send your pic to the oven, which must be quick, but not so as to burn the crust. Tiirbot Fie. First parboil your turbot, and then season it witli a little pepper, salt, cloves, nutmeg, and sweet herbs cut fine. When you have made your paste, lay the turbot in your dish, with some yolks of eggs, and a whole onion, which must be taken out when the pie is baked. Lay a good deal of fresh butter at the top, put on the lid, and send it to the oven. Sole Pie. Cover your dish with a good emst; then boil two pounds of eels till they are tender, pick the flesh from the bones, and put the lx)nes into the liquor in Avhich the eels were boiled, with a blade of mace and a little salt. Boil them till there is only a quarter of a pint of liquor left, and then strain it. Cut the flesh ofl" the eels very fine, and mix with it a little lemon-peel chop- ped small, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a few crumbs of bread grated, some parsley cut fine, an anchovy, and a quarter of a pound of butter. Lay this in the bot- tom of your dish. Cut the flesh from a pair of large soles, and take oft' the fins, lay it on the seasoning, then pour in the li.quor the eels were boiled in, close up your pie, and send it to the table. Flounder Fie, Gut your flounders, wash them clean, and then dry them well in a cloth. Give them a gentle boil, and then cut the flesh clean from the bones, lay a good crust over the dish, put a little fresh butter at the bottom, and on that the fish. Season with pepper and salt to your taste. Boil the bones in the water the fish Avas boiled in, with a small piece of horse- radish, a little parsley, a bit of lemon peel, and a crus' FISH PIES. 205 of bread. Boil it till there is just enough liquor for the pie, then strain it, and povir it over the fish. Put on the lid, and send it to a moderate heated oven. Carp Pie. Scrape off the scales, and then gut and wash a large carp clean. Take an eel, and boil it till it is almost tender; pick oft' all the meat, and mince it fine, with an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, a few sweet herbs, lemon-peel cut fine, a little pepper and salt, and grated nutmeg; an anchovy, half a pint oi oysters parboiled and chopped fine, and the yolks of three hard eggs cut small. Roll it up with a quarter of a pound of butter, and fill the belly of the carp. Make a good crust, cover the dish, anS lay in your fish. Save the liquor you boiled your eel in, put into it the eel bones, and boil thein with a little mace, whole pepper, an onion, some sweet herbs, and an anchovy. Boil it till reduced to about half a pint, then strain it, and add to it about a quarter of a pint of white wine, and a piece of butter about the size of a hen's egs; mixed in a very little flour. Boil it up, and pour it into your j^^ie. Put on the lid, and bake it an hour in a quick oven. Tench Pie. Put a layer of butter at the bottom of yom* dish, and grate in some nutmeg, with pepper, salt, and mace. Then lay in your tench, cover them with some butter, and pour in some red wine with a little water. Then put on the lid, and when it comes from the oven, pom' in melted butter mixed with some good rich gravy. Trout Pic. Take a brace of trout, and lard them with eels; raise the crust, and put a layer of fresh butter at the bottom. Then make a forcemeat of trout, mushrooms, truftles, morels, chives, and fresh butter. Season them Avith salt, pepper, and spice ; mix these up with the yolks of two eggs; stuff the trout with it, lay them 20b FISH PIES. in the dish, cover tlicm witli butter, put on the lidy and send it to the oven. Have some good fish gravy ready, and when the pie is done, raise the crust, and por.r it in Salmon Pie. When you have made a good crust, take a piece ol' fresh sahnoii, well cleansed, and season it with salt, mace, and nutmeg. Put a piece of butter at tlie bot- tom of your dish, and then lay in the salmon. Melt butter in proportion to the size of your pie, and then take a lobster, boil it, pick out all the flesh, chop it small, bruise the body, and mix it well with the but- ter. Pour it over your salmon, put on the lid, and let it be well baked. Herring Pie. Having scaled, gutted, and washed your herring clean, cut off their heads, fins, and tails. Make a good crust, cover your dish, and season your hcn'ings with beaten mace, pepper, and salt. Put a little but- ter in the bottom of your dish, and then the herrings. Over these put some apples and onions sliced very thin. Put some butter on the top, then pour in a lit- tle ivater, lay on the lid, send it to the oven, and let it be well baked. Lobster Pie. Boil two or three lobsters, take the meat out of the tails, and cut it into difl^erent pieces. Then take out all the spawn, and the meat of the claws ; beat it ^vell in a mortar, and season it with pepper, salt, two spoonsful of vinegar, and a little anchovy liquor. IMelt half a pound of hesh butter, and stir all together, with the crumbs of a penny roll rubbed through a fine cul- lender, and the yolks of ten eggs. Put a fine pulf- paste over your dish, lay in the tails first, and the rest of the meat 3n them. Put on the hd, and bake it in a hIcw oven. 207 CHAPTER XVI. PAACAKES JJVD FRITTERS, THE principal things to be observed, of a general nature, in dressing these articles is, that yonr pan be thoroughly clean, that you fry them in nice sweet lard, or fresh butter, of a light brown colour, and that the grease is thoroughly drained from them before you carry them to table. Pancakes. Beat six or eight eggs well together, leaving out half the whites, and stir them into a quart of milk. Mix your flour first Avith a little of the milk, and then add the rest by degrees. Put in two spoonsful of beaten gin- ger, a glass of brandy, and a little salt, and stir all well together. Put a piece of butter into your stew-pan, and then pour in a ladleful of batter, which aa ill make a pancake, moving the pan round, that the batter may spread all over it. — Shake the pan, and when you think one side is enough, turn it, and when lx)tli sides are done, lay it in a dish before the fire ; and in like man- ner do the rest. Before you take them out of the pan, raise it a little, that they may drain, and be quite clear of grease. When you send them to table, strew^ a lit- tle sugar over them. Cream Pancakes. Mix the yolks of two eggs w ith half a pmt of cream, two oimces of sugar, and a little beaten cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. Rub your pan with lard, and fry them as thin as possible. Grate over them some fine sugar. Rice Pancakes. Take three spoonsful of flour and rice, and a quart of cream. Set it on a sIoav fire, and keep stirring it till it is as thick as pap. Pour into it half a pound of butter, and a nutmeg grated . Then pour it into an earth- en pan, and when it is cold, stir in three or four spoon?- IS 208 FRITTERS. fill of flour, a little salt, and some sugar, and nine eggs ^^x']l beaten. Mix all Avell together, and fry them nicely. When cream is not to be had, you rnus* use new milk, but in that case you must add a spoonfid more of the flour of rice. Pink-coloured Pancakes. Boil a large beet-root till it is tender, and then beat it fine in a marble mortar. Add the yolks of four eggs, two spoonsful of flour, and three spoonsful of cream. Sweeten it to your taste, grate in half a nutmeg, and add a glass of brandy. Mix all well together, and fry your pancakes in butter. Garnish them with gi-een sweetmeats, preserved apricots, or green sprigs of myr- tle. This makes a pretty corner-dish either for dinner or supper. Clary Pancakes. Take three eggs, three spoonsful of fine flour, and a litte salt. Beat them wqW together, and mix them with a pint of milk. Put lard into yom* pan, and when it is hot, pour in your batter as thin as possible, then lay in some clary leaves washed and dried, and pour a little more batter thin over them. Fry them of a nice brown, and Serve them up hot. Plain Fritters. Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, and put it mto a pint of milk; mix it very smooth, and when cold, add the yolks of five eggs, three ounces of sifted sugar, and some grated nutmeg. Fry them in hog's lard, and when done, pour melted butter, wine and sugar into the dish. Custard Fritters. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with one spoonfid of flour, half a nutmeg, a little salt, and a glass of bran- dy, add a pint of cream, sweeten it, and bake it in a small dish. When cold, cut it into quarters, and dip them in batter made of half a pint of cream, a quarter of a pint o^ milk, four eggs, a little flour, and a httle FRITTERS. 200 ginger grated. Fry them in good lard or dripping, and when done st* iw over tiiem some grated sugar. Apple Fritters. Take some of the largest apples you can get, pare and core them, and then cut them into round slices. Take half a pint of ale and two eggs, and beat in as nuicli flour as will make it rather thicker than a com- mon pudding, with nutmeg and sugar to yonr taste. liCt it stand three or foin* minutes to rise. Dip your slices of apple into the batter, fry them crisp, and serve them up w ith sugar grated over them, and wine sauce in a boat. Water Fritters. Take five or six vspoonsful of flour, a little salt, a quart of water, eight eggs Avell beat up, a glass of brandy, and mix them all well together. The longer they are made before dressed, the better. Just before you do them, melt half a pound of butter, and beat it well in. Fry them in hog's lard. White Fritters. Take two ounces of rice, wash it clean in water, and dry it before the fire. Then beat it very fine in a mortar, and sift it through a lawn sieve. Put it into a saucepan, just wet it with milk, and w hen it is tho- roughly moistened, add to it another pint of milk. Set the ^vhole over a stove, or very slow fire, and take care to keep it always moving. Put in a little ginger, and some candied lemon-peel grated. Keep it over tlie fire, till it is come almost to the thickness of a fine paste. When it is quite cold, spread it out with a rolling-pin, and cut it into little pieces, taking care tliey do not stick to each otlier. Flour your hands, roll up your fritters handsomely, and fry them. When done, strew on then^ some sugar, and pour over them a little orange-flower water. Hasty Fritters. Put vsome butter into a stew-pan, and let i( heat. Take half a pint of good ale, and stir into it by No. 9. 2D 210 FRITTERS. degrees a little flour. Put in a few currants, or chop ped apples, beat them np quick, and drop a large spoonful at a time all over tlie pan. Take care they do not stick together; turn them with an egg-slice, and when they are of a fine brown, lay them on a dish, strew some sugar over them, and serve them hot to table. Fritters Royal. Put a quart of new milk into a saucepan, and when it begins to boil, pour in a pint of sack, or wine. Then take it off, let it stand five or six minutes, skim off tlie curd, and put it into a basin. Beat it up well with six eggs, and season it with nutmeg. Then beat it with a whisk, and add flour sufficient to give it the usual thickness of batter ; put in some sugar, and fry them quick. Tansey Fritters. Pour a pint of boiling milk on the crumb of a penny loaf, let it stand an hour, and then put in as much juice of tansey to it as will give it a flavour. Add to it a little of the juice of spinach, in order to make it green. Put to it a spoonful of ratafia water, or brandy, sweeten it to your taste, gi'ate the rind of half a lemon, beat the yolks of four eggs, and mix them all together. Put them in a stew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, stir it over a slow fire till it is quite thick ; take it ofl', and let it stand two or three hours; then drop a spoonful at a time into a pan of boiling lard ; and when done, grate sugar over them, and serve wine sauce in a boat. Garnish the dish with slices of orange. Rice Fritter's. Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in milk till it is pretty thick; then mix it with a pint of cream, four eggs, some sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg, six oimces of currants washed and picked, a little salt, and as much flour as will make it a thick batter. Fry them in lit- tle cakes in boiling lard, and when done, send them up with white sugar and butter. FRITTERS. 211 Chicken Fritters. Put on a stew-pan with some new milk, and as ifjLich flour of rice as will be necessary to make it of a tolerable thickness. Beat three or four eggs, the yolks and whites together, and mix them well with the rice and milk. Add to them a pint of rich cream, set it over a stove, and stir it well. Put in some powdered ugar, some candied lemon- peel cut small, and some fi-esh-grated lemon-peel. Take all the white meat from a roasted chicken, pull it into small shreds, put it to the rest of the ingredients, and stir it all together. Then take it oft', and it will be a very rich paste. Roll it out, cut it into small fritters, and fry them in boiling lard. Strew the bottom of the dish with sugar finely powdered. Put in the fritters, and shake some sugar over them. Bilhoquet Fritters. Break five eggs into two handsful of fine flour, and put milk enough to make it work well together. Then put in some salt, and work it again. When it is well made, put in a tea-spoonful of powder of cinna- mon, the same quantity of lemon-peel grated, and half an ounce of candied citron cut very small. Put on a stew-pan, rub it over with butter, and put in the paste. Set it over a very slow fii*e, and let it be done gently, without sticking to the bottom or sides of the pan. When it is in a manner baked, take it out, and lay it on a dish. Set on a stew-pan with a large quan- tity of lard ; when it boils, cut the paste the size of a finger, and then cut it across at each end, which will rise and be hollow, and have a very good eftect. Put tliem into the boiling lard ; but great care must be taken in frying them, as they rise so much. When they are done, sift some sugar on a warm dish, lay on the fritters, and sift some more sugar over them. Orange Fritters. Take five or six sweet oranges, pare off" the outside as thin as possible, and cut them in quarters; take out the seeds, and boil the oranges with aUttle sugar 18* 212 FRITTERS. make a paste with some white wine, flour, a spoonful of fresh butter melted, ;nid a little salt; mix it neither too thick nor too thin; it should rope in pouring from the spoon. Dip the quarters of your orange into this paste, and fry them in hog's lard till they are of a light brown. Serve them glazed with line sugar and a sala- mander. Strawberry Fritters. Make a paste with some flour, a spoonful of bran- dy, a glass of white wine, and the whites of two eggs, beat it up stiff, with some lemon-peel shred fine ; mix it w^ell, not too thick or thin ; dip some large straw- berries into it, fry them, and glaze them with a salamander. Any kind of fruit may be fried in the same manner ; if not in season, preserved are better. Straivbermi Fritters. Make a batter with flour, a spoonful of sweet oil, another of white w inc, a little rasped lemon-peel, and the whites of two or three eggs ; make it pretty soft, just fit to drop with a spoon. Mix some large straw- berries with it, and drop them ^^ ith a spoon into ihe hot fritters. When of a good colour take them out, and drain them on a sieve. When done, strew^ some sugar over them, or glaze them, and send them to table. Raspberry Fritters. Grate the crumb of a French roll, or two Naples biscuits, and put to it a pint of boiling cream. When cold, add to it the yolks of four eggs well beat up. — Mix all well together with some raspberry juice; drop them into a pan of boiling lard in very small quantities. When done stick them with blanched al- monds sliced. Currant Fritters. Take half a pint of ale that is not bitter, and stir into it as much flour as will make it pretty thick with a few currants. Beat it up quick, have the lard boil- ing, and put a large spoonful at a time into the pan TARTS. 213 German Fritters. Take some well tasted crisp apples, pare, quarter, and core tliem ; take the core quite out, and cut them into round pieces. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pint of French brandy, a table spoonful of fine sugar pounded, and a little cinnamon. Put the apples into this liquor, and set tliem over a gentle fire, stin'ing tliem often, but not to break them. Set on a stew- pan with. some lard. When it boils drain the apples, dip them in some fine flour, and put them into the pan. Strew some sugar ov^n- the dish, and set it on the fire ; lay in the fritters, strew a little sugar over them, and glaze them over with a red-hot salamander. Almond Fraze. Steep a pound of Jordan almonds blanched in a pint of cream, ten yolks of eggs, and four whites. Then take out the almonds, and pound them fine in a mor- tar; mix them again in the cream and eggs, and put in some sugar and grated white bread. Stir them all together, put some fresii butter into the pan, and as soon as it is hot, pour in the batter, stirring it in the pan till it is of a good thickness. When enough, turn it into a dish, and throw some sugar over it. CHAPTER XVII TARTS A.YD PUFFS. WE have already given directions for making puff- paste for tarts, as also the making of Tarts as well as Pies, in the commencement of the fifteenth chap- ter. We have, therefore, here to treat only of those of a smaller and more delicate kind, concerning which the following general observations are necessary. If you use tin patties to bake it, butter the bottoms, and then put on a very thin bit of crust, otherwise you will not be able to take them out ; but if you bake tliem in glass or china, you need only use an upper 214 TARTS. crust. Put some fnie sugar at tlie bottom, tlicn lay in your fruit, strew more sugar at top, cover them, and bake them in a slack oven. Currants and rasp berries make an exceeding good tart, and require little baking. Apples and pears intended for tarts must be ma- naged thus : cut them into quarters, and take out the cores, then cut the quarters across, and put them into a saucepan, with as much water as will barely cover them, and let them simmer on a slow fire till the fruit is tender. Put a good piece of lemon-peel into the water with the fruit, and then have your patties ready. Lay fine sugar at bottom, then your fruit, and a little sugar at top. Pour over eacli tart one tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and three of the liquor they were boil- ed in; then put on your lid, and bake them in a slack oven. Apricot tarts may be made in the same man- ner, only that you must not put in any lemon-juice. Preserved fruit requires very little baking, and that which is very high preserved should not be baked at all. In this case, the crust should be first baked upon a tin the size of the intended tart ; cut it with a mark- ing iron, and when cold, take it oif, and lay it on the fruit. SECT. 1. DIFFERENT KINDS OF TARTS. Raspberry Tart. Roll out some thin puff'-paste, and lay it in a patty- pan; then put in some raspberries, and strew over tliem some very fine sugar. Put on the lid, and bake it. Then cut it open, and put in half a pint of cream, the yolks of two or three eggs well beaten, and a little sugar. Give it another heat in the oven, and it will be fit for use. Green Almond Tarts. Gather some almonds ofi* the tree before they TARTS. 215 begin to shell, scrape off the down, aiid pat them into a pan with some cold spring water. Then put them into a skillet with more spring water, set it on a slow tire, and let it remain till it just simmers. Change the Avater twice, and let them remain in the last till they liegin to he tender. Then take them out, and dr)' them well in a cloth. J^Iake a syrup with double re lined sngar, put them into it, and let them simmer a short time. Do the same the next day, put them into a stone jar, and cover them very close, for if the least air comes to them, they will tm'n black. The yellower they are before they are taken out of the wa- ter, the greener they will be after they are done. Put them into your crust, cover, them with syrup, lay on the lid, and bake them in a moderate oven. Angelica Tarts. Pare and core some golden pippins, or nonpareils ; then the stalks of angelica, peel them, and cut them into small pieces; apples and angelica, of each an equal quantity. Boil the apples in just water enough to cover them, with lemon-peel, and fine sugar. Do them very gently till they become a thin syi'up, and then strain it off. Put it on the fire with the angelica in it, and let it boil ten minutes. Make a puff-paste, lay it at the bottom of the tin, and then a layer of apples, and a layer of angelica, till it is full. Pour in some syrup, put on the lid, and send it to a very mo- derate oven. Uhuharh Tarts. Take the stalks of rhubarb that grow in a garden, peel them, and cut them into small pieces. Then do it in every respect the same as a gooseberry tart. Spinach Tarts. Scald some spinach in boihng water, and then drain it quite dry. Chop it, and stew it in some but- ter and cream, with a very little salt, some sugar, some bits of citron, and very little orange-flower water 216 TARTS. Put it into very fine piifl-paste, and let it be baked in a moderate oven. Petit Patties. Make a sliort crust, and roll it thick; take a piece of veal, and an etpial quantity of bacon and beef suet. Siired tlieni all very fnie, season them with pepper and salt, and a little sweet herbs. Put them into a stew- pan, and keep turning them about, with a few mush- rooms chopped small, for eight or ten minutes. Then fill your patties, and cover them with crust. Colour them with the yolk of an egg, and bake them. These make a very pretty garnish, and give a handsome ap- pearance to a large dish. Orange Taints. Grate a little of the outside rind of a Seville orange; squeeze the juice of it into a dish, throw the peels into water, and change it often for four days. — Then set a saucepan of water on the fire, and when it boils put in the oranges; but mind to change the water twice to take out the bitterness. When they are ten- der, wipe them well, and beat them in a mortar till they are fine. Then take their weight in double- refined sugar, boil it into a syrup, and scum it very clean. Put in the pulp, and boil altogether till it is clear. Let it stand till cold, then put it into the tarts, and squeeze in the juice. Bake them in a quick oven. Chocolate Tarts. Rasp a quarter of a pound of chocolate, and a stick of cinnamon, and add to them some fresh lemon-peel grated, a little salt, and some sugar. Then take two spoonsful of fine flour, and the yolks of six eggs well ])eaten and mixed with some milk. Put all these in- to a stew-pan, and let them be a little time over the fire. Then take it ofl', put in a little lemon-peel cut small, and let it stand till it is cold. Beat up enough of the whites of eggs to cover it, and put it into puff- paste. AVhen it is baked, sift some sugar over it, and glaze it with a salamander. PUFFS. ?17 SECT. II. PUFFS, &c. Sugar Puffs. Beat up the whites of ten eggs tiil they rise to a higli froth, and then put them into a marble mortar, with as much double-retined sugar as will make it thick. Then rub it well round the mortar, put in a few carraway seeds, and take a sheet of wafers, and lay it on as broad as a sixpence, and as high as you can. Pat them into a moderately heated oven for about a quarter of an hour, and they w ill have a verv white and delicate appearance. Lemon Puffs. Take a pound of double-refined sugar, bruise it, and sift it through a fine sieve. Put it into a bowl, with the juice of two lemons, and mix them together. Then beat the white of an egg to a very high froth, put it into your bowl, beat it half an hour, and then put in three eggs, with two rinds of lemons grated. Mix it well up, and throw sugar on your papers, drop on the puft's in small drops, and bake them in a mo derately heated oven. Almond Puffs. Take two ounces of sweet almonds, blanch them, and beat them very fine with orange-flower water. Beat up the whites of three eggs to a very high froth, and then strew^ in a little sifted sugar. Mix your al- monds with the sugar and eggs, and then add more sugar till it is as thick as paste. Lay it in cakes, and bake them in a slack oven on paper. Chocolate Puffs. Beat and sift half a pound of douKe-refined sugar, scrape into it an ounce of chocolate very fine, and mix them together. Beat up the white of an egg to a very high froth, and strew into it your sugar and cho- colate. Keep beating it till it is as thick as paste, then No. 10. 2 K ZlO CHEESEOAKEd. sugar your paper, drop them on about the size of a SLxpence, and bake them in a very slow oven. Cmd Puffs. Put a httle rennet into two quarts of milk, and when it is broken, put it into a coarse ck)th to drain. 'I'hen rub tlie curd through a liair sieve, and put to it tour ounces of butter, ten ounces of bread, half a nut- meg, a lemon-peel grated, and a spoonful of wine. — Sweeten w ith sugar to your taste, rub your cups ^vith butter, and put them into the oven for about half an hour. Wafers. Take a spoonfid of orange-flower water, two spoonsful of flour, two of sugar, and the same of milk. Beat them well together for half an hour; then make your wafer tongs hot, and pour a little of yoin* batter in to cover your u'ons. Bake them on a stove fire, and as they are baking, roll them round a stick like a spigot. When they are cold, they will be very crisp, and {»ve proper to be ate either with jellies or tea. CHAPTER XVIII. CHEESECAKES AMD CUSTARDS. SECT. I. CHEESECAKES. THE shorter time any cheesecakes are made, be- fore put into the oven, the better ; but more particu- larly almond oi iemou cheesecakes, as standing long will make them grow oily, and give them a disagree- able appearance. Particular attention must likewise be paid to the heat of the oven, wdiich must be mo- derate; for if it is too hot, they will be scorched, and consequently their beauty spoiled ; and, if too slack, they will look black and heavv. CHEESECAKES. 219 Common Cheesecakes. Put a spoonful of rennet into a quart of new milk, and set it near the fire. When the milk is blood-warm, and broken, drain the cmxl throngh a coarse sieve. Now and then break the cnrd gently with your fingers, and rub into it a quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of sugar, a nutmeg, and two Naples biscuits grated ; the yolks of four eggs, and the white of one, with an ounce of almonds well beaten with two spoonsful of rose-water, and the same of sack. Then clean and wash six ounces of currants, and put them into the curd. Mix all well together, fill your patty-pans, and send them to a moderate oven. Fine Cheesecakes. Put a pint of cream into a saucepan over the fire, and when it is warm, add to it five quarts of milk, im- mediately taken from the cow. Then put to it some rennet, give it a stir about, and when it is turned, put the curd into a linen cloth or bag. I ,et it drain well away from the whey, but do not squ 3eze it too much. Put it into a mortar, and pound it as fine as butter. Add to it half a pound of sweet-almonds blanched, and half a pound of macaroons, both beat exceeding fine, but if you have no macaroons, Naples biscuits will do. Then add the yolks of nine eggs well beaten up, a grated nutmeg, a little rose or orange- flower water, and half a pound of fine sugar. Mix all well together, and melt a pound and a quarter of but- ter, and stir it well in. Then make a puff-paste in this manner : take a pound of fine flour, wet it with cold water, roll it out, put into it by degrees a pound of fresh butter, and shake a little flour on each coat as you roll it. Then proceed to finish your business as before directed, and send them to the oven. For variety, wlien you make them of macaroons, put in as much tincture of saftVon as will give them a high co- lour, but no currants. These may be called saflron cheesecakes. 19 220 CHEESECAKES. Bread Cheesecakes. Slice a penny loaf as tliin as possible, then pour c»n it a pint of boiling cream, and let it stand two hoin-s. Then take eight eggs, half a pound of butter, and a nutmeg grated. Beat them well together, and mix them into the cream and bread, with half a pound ol currants well washed and dried, and a spoonful ol white wine or brandy. Bake them in patty-joans, or raised crust. Rice Cheesecakes. Boil four ounces of rice till it is tender, and then put it into a sieve to drain. Mix with it four eggs well beaten up, half a pound of butter, half a pint of cream, six ounces of sugar, a nutmeg grated, and a glass of brandy or ratifia w^ater. Beat them all well to- gether, then put them into raised crusts, and bake them in a moderate oven. Almond Cheesecakes. Take four ounces of sweet almonds, blanch them, and put them into cold w^ater; then beat them in a marble mortar, or wooden bowl, with some rose-wa- ter. Put to it four ounces of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beat fine. Work it in the mortar, or bowl, till it becomes wiiite and frothy, and then make a rich puff-paste as follows : take half a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, rub a little of the butter into the flour, mix it stiif with a little cold water, and then roll your paste straight out. Strew^ on a little (lour, and lay over it, in thin bits, one third of yom* butter; throw" a little more flour over the bottom, and do the like three dift'erent times. Then put the paste into your tins, fill them, grate sugar over them, and bake them in a gentle oven. Or you may make Almond Cheesecakes thus : Take four ounces of almonds, blanch them, and beat tiiem with a little orange-flower w'ater; add the volks of eight eggs, the rind of a large lemon grated, CUSTARDS. 221 half a pound of melted bnttcr, and sugar to your taste ; lay a thin puff-paste at the bottom of your tins, and little slips across. Add about half a dozen bitter almonds. Lemon Cheesecakes. Boil the peelings of two large lemons till they are tender ; then gound them well in a mortar, with a quar- ter of a pound of loaf sugar, the yolks of six eggs, half a pound of fresh butter, and a little curd beat fine. Pound and mix all together, lay a puff-paste in your patty-pans, fill them half full, and bake them. Orange cheesecakes must be done the same way; but you must boil the peel in two or tliree waters to depri\ie it of its bitter taste. Citron Cheesecakes. Beat the yolks of four eggs, and mix them with a quart of boiled cream. When it is cold, set it on the fire, and let it boil till it curds. Blanch some almonds, beat them with orange-flower water, and put them into cream with a few Naples biscuits, and green citron shred fine. Sweeten it to your taste, and bake them in cups. SECT. II. CUSTARDS. In making of custards, the greatest care must be taken that your pan be well tinned ; and always re- member to put a spoonful of water into it, to prevent your ingredients sticking to the bottom. Plain Custards. Put a quart of good cream over a slow fire, with a little cinnamon, and four onnces of sugar. When it has boiled, take it off the fire, beat the yolks of eight eggs, and put to them a spoonful of orange-flower water, to prevent the cream from cracking. Stir them in by de- grees as your cream cools, put the pan over a very slow 222 CUSTARDS. (ire, stir it carefully one way till it is almost boilings and then pour it into cups. Or you maymake them h: this manner : Take a quart of new milk, sweeten to yom* taste, beat up well the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four. Stir them into the milk, and bake it in china basins. Or put them into a china dish, and pour boiling water round them till the water is better than half way up their sides ; but take care the water does not boil too fast, lest it sliould get into your cups, and spoil your custards. Baked Custards. Boil a pint of cream with some mace and cinna- mon, and when it is cold, take four yolks and two whites of eggs, a little rose and orange-flower water and sack, and nutmeg and sugar to your palate. Mix them well together, and bake it in cups. Rice Custards. Put a blade of mace and a quartered nutmeg into a quart of cream; boil it, then strain it, and add to it some whole rice boiled, and a little brandy. Sweeten it to your palate, stir it over the fire till it thickens, and serve it up in cups, or a dish. It may be used either hot or cold. Almond Custards. Take a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch and beat them very fine, and then put them into a pint of cream, with two spoonsful of rose-water. Sweeten it to your palate, beat up the yolks of four eggs very fine, and put it in. Stir all together one way over the fire till it is thick, and then pour it into cups. Lemon Custards. Take half a pound of double-refined sugar, the juice of two lemons, the rind of one pared very thin, the inner rind of one boiled tender, and rubbed through a sieve, and a pint of white wine. Let them boil for Kome time, then take out th 3 peel, and a little of th CAKES. 223 l/quor, and set it to cool. Pour the rest into tlie dish you intend for it, beat four yolks and two whites of eggs, and mix them with your cool liquor. Strain them into your dish, stir tlicm well together, and set them on a slow tire in boiling water. When it is enough, grate the rind of a lemon on tiie top, and brown it over with a hot salamander. This may be eaten either hot or cold. Orange Custards. Boil very tender the rind of half a Seville orange, and then beat it in a mortar till it is very fine. Put to it a spoonful of tlie best brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf sugar, and the yolks of four eggs. Beat them all well together for ten minutes, and then pour in by degrees a pint of boiling cream. Keep beating them till tliey are cold, then put them in cus- tard cups and set them in a dish of hot water. Let them stand till they are set, then take them out, and stick preserved orange on the top. These, like tiie for- mer, may be served up either hot or cold. CHAPTER XIX. CAKES, BISCUITS, t^-c. ONE very material matter to be attended to in making these articles is, that all your ingredients are ready at the time you are going to make them, and that you do not leave them till your business is done , but be particularly observant with respect to the eggs when beaten up, which, if left at any time, must be again beaten, and by that means your cake will not be so light as it otherwise would and ought to be. 1^ you use butter to your cakes, be careful in beating ii to a fine cream before you mix the sugar with it. Cakes made with rice, seeds, or plums, are best baked with wooden girths, as therebv the heat will penetrate '224 CAKES. into tlie middle, which will not be the case if baked in pots or tins. The heat of tiie oven must be proportion- ed to the size of the cake. A Good Common Cuke. 1\\KE six ounces of ground rice, and the same quan tity of Hour, tlie yolks and whites of nine eggs, half a pound of lump sugar, pounded and sifted, and half an ounce of carraway seeds. Mix these well together, and bake it an hour in a quick oven. Jl Rich Seed Cake. Take a pound and a quarter of flour well dried, a pound of butter, a pound of loaf sugar, beat and sifted, eight eggs, two ounces of carraw ay seeds, one nutmeg grated, and its weight in cinnamon. First beat your butter to a cream, then put in your sugar; beat the wiiites of your eggs by themselves, and mLx them with your butter and sugar, and then beat up the yolks and mix with the wiiites. Beat in your fiour, spices, and seed, a little before you send it away. Bake it two hours in a quick oven. A Pound Cake Plain. Beat a pound of butter in an earthen pan, till it is like a fine thick cream, then beat in nine whole eggs till quite light. Put in a glass of brandy, a little lemon- peel shred fine ; then work in a pound and a quarter of flour. Put it into your hoop or pan, and bake it for one hour. A pound plum cake is made the same, wdth putting one pound and a half of clean washed currants, and half a pound of candied emon or orange-peel. Cream Cakes. Beat the whites of nine eggs to a stiff froth, stir it gently with a spoon, lest the froth should fall, and to every white of an egg grate the rinds of two lemons. Shake in gently a spoonful ofdouble-refined sugar sift- ed fine, lay a wet sheet of paper on a tin, and with a spoon drop the fi'oth in little lumps on it, at a smaU CAKES. 225 distance from each other. Sift a good quariity of sugar over them, set them in the oven after the bread is out, and close up the moutli of it, which will occasion the froth to rise. As soon as they are coloured they will be sufficiently baked ; then take them out, and put two bottoms together ; lay them on a sieve, and set them to dry in a cool even. IFedding or Chi istening Cake. Take three pounds and three quarters of butter, four pounds and a half of flour, three pounds of sugar, six pounds of currants, one pound and a half of can- died lemon-peel, half a pound of almqjids, half a pound of citron, thirty eggs, and a pint of brandy and milk. Beat your butter in a pan till it is like thick cream, but be sure not to make it too hot; then add your eggs by degrees, till they are quite light; then beat in half your flour, then put your milk and brandy in; grate the rinds of six lemons, and put in the rest of your flour, currants, candied lemon-peel, almonds, and half an ounce of spices, beat and sifted through a fine sieve, such as cloves, mace, nutmegs, cinnamon, and allspice; only put half an ounce of the whole in. If you bake the whole in one cake it w ill take three hom's, but must not be baked too quick. Rice Cukes. Beat the yolks of fifteen eggs for near half an hour wdth a wiiisk; then put to them ten ounces of loaf- sugar sifted fine, and mix them w ell together. Then put in half a pound of gi'ound rice, a little orange-wator or brandy, and the rinds of two lemons gi'ated. Then put in the whites of seven eggs ^vell beaten, and stir the wiiole together for a quarter of an hour. Put them in a hoop, and set them in a quick oven for half an hour, and thoy will be properly done. Gingerbread Cakes. Take three pounds of flour, a pound of sugar, the same quantity of butter rolled in very fine, two ounces No. la 2 y 226 CAKES. of beaten ginger, and a large nutmeg grated. Tlicn take a pound of treacle, a quarter of a pint of cream, and make them warm togethe..-. Work up the bread stiff, roll it out, and make it up into thin cakes. Cut them out with a tea-cup or small glass, or roll them round like nuts, and bake it in a slack oven on tin Dlates. Bath Cakes or Buns. Take half a pound of butter, and one pound of flour; rub the butter well into the flour; add five eggs, and a tea-cup full of yeast. Set the whole well mixed up before the fire to rise ; when suificiently rose, add a quarter of a pou^d of fine powder sugar, an ounce of carraways well mixed in, then roll tliem out in little cakes, and bake them on tins. They may either be eat .for breakfast or tea. Shreivsbti }^y Cakes. Beat half a pound of butter to a fine cream, and put in the same weight of flour, one egg, six ounces of beaten and sifted loaf-sugar, and half an ounce ofcar- raway seeds. Mix them Avith a paste, roll them thin, and cut them round with a small glass, or little tins ; prick them, lay them on sheets of tin ; and bake them m a slow oven. Portugal Cakes. Mix into a pound of fine flour a pound of loaf-sugar beat and sifted, and rub it into a pound of pure sweet butter till it is thick like grated white bread; then put to it two spoonsful of rose-water, two of sack, and ten eggs, and then work them well with a whisk, and put in eight ounces of currants. Butter the tin pans, fill them but half full, and bake them. If made without currants, they will keep half a year. Saffron Cakes. Take a quartern of fine flour, a pound and a half of butter, ihree ounces of carraway seeds, six eggs well beaten, i quarter of an c jnce of cloves and mace fine CAKES. 227 beaten together, a little cinnamon ponncled, a pound of sugar, a little rose-water and saffron, a pint and a half of yeast, and a qnart of milk. Mix all together liglitly in the following manner : first boil yonr milk and butter, then skim off the butter, and mix it with your flour, and a little of the milk. Stir the yeast into the rest, and strain it. Mix it with the flour, put in your seeds and spice, rose-water, tincture of saflVon, sugar, and eggs Beat it all well up, and bake it in a hoop or pan well buttered. Send it to a quick oven, and an hour and a half will do it. Prussian Cakes. Take half a pound of dried flour, a pound of bea- ten and sifted sugar, the yolks and wJiites of seven eggs beaten separately, the juice of a lemon, the peels of two finely grated, and half a pound of almonds beat fine with rose-water. When yon have beat the whites of the eggs to a froth, p;it in the yolks, and every thing else except the flour, and beat them well together. Shake in the flour ju.st before you set it in the oven, and be particularly careful to beat the whites and yolks separately, otherwise your cake will be hea- vy, and very unpleasant. Queen Cakes. Take a pomid of sugar, and beat and sift it; a pound of well dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, and half a pound of currants waslied and picked ; grate a nutmeg, and the same quantity of mace and cinna- mon. Work your butter to a cream, and put in your sugar ; beat the whites of your eggs near half an hour, and mix them with yom- sugar and butter. Then beat your yolks near half an hour, and put them to your butter. Beat the whole well together, and" when it is ready for the oven put in your floiu', spices, and cur- rants. Sift a little sugar over them, and bake them in tins. Almond Cakes. Take two ources of butter, and one pound of sweet 228 CAKES. almonds, blanched and beat, with a little rose orcd*ang€ flower water, and the white of one egg; half a pound of sifted loaf sugar, eight yollvs and three whites of eggs, tlie juice of half a lemon and the rind gi'ated. Mix the whole Avell together, and either bake it in one large pan or several small ones. Little Plum Cakes. Take half a pound of sugar finely j)owdered, two pounds of flour well dried, four yolks and two whites of eggs, half a poimd of butter washed with rose- water, six spoonsful of cream warmed, and a pound and a half of currants un^\ ashed, but picked and nib- bed very clean in a cloth. Mix all well together, then make them up into cakes, bake them in a hot ov en, and let them stand half an hour till they are coloured on both sides. Then take down the oven lid, and let them stand to soak. You must rub the butter well into the flour, then the eggs and cream, and then the currants. Ratifia Cakes. First blanch, and then beat half a pound of sweet almonds, and the same quantity of bitter almonds in fine orange, rose, or ratifia water, to keep the almonds from oiling. Take a pound of fine sugar pounded and sifted, and mix it with your almonds. Have ready the whites of four eggs well beaten, and mix them lightly with the almonds and sugar. Put it into a preserving- pan, and set it over a moderate fire. Keep stirring it one way until it is pretty hot, and, when a little cool, form it in small rolls, and cut it into thin cakes. Dip your hands in flour, and shake them on them ; give each a light tap with your finger, and ])ut them on su- gar papers. Sift a little sugar on them before you put them into the oven, which must be quite slack. Apricot Cakes. Take a pound of ripe apricots, scald and peel them, and, as soon as you find the skin will come off", take out the stones. Beat the fruit in a mortar to a pulp • CAKES. 229 then boil half a pound of double-refined sugar, with a spoonftd of Avater, skim it well, and put to it the pulp of yonr apricots. Let it simmer a quarter of an hour over a slow fire, and keep stirring it all the time. Then pour it into shallow flat glasses, turn them out upon glass plates, put them into a stove, and turn them once a day till they are dry. Orange Cakes. duARTER what quantity you j^lease of Seville oranges that have very good rinds, and boil them in t\vo or three Avaters till t!iey are tender, and the bitter- ness gone off. Skim them, and then lay them on a clean napkin to dry. Take all the skins and seeds out of the pulp with a knife, shred the peels fine, put them to the pulp, weigh them, and put rather more than their weight of fine sugar into a pan, with just as much water as will dissolve it. Boil it till it becomes a perfect sugar, and then by degrees, put in your orange-peels and pulp. Stir them well before you set them on the fire ; boil it very gently till it looks clear and thick, and then put them into flat-bottomed glas- ses. Set them in a stove, and keep them in a constant and moderate heat ; and when they are candied on the top, turn them out upon glasses. Lemon Cakes. Take the whites of ten eggs, put to them three spoonsful of rose or orange-flower water, and beat them an hour with a whisk. Then put in a pound of beaten and sifted sugar, and grate into it the rind of a lemon. When it is well mixed put in the juice of hall a lemon, and the yolks of ten eggs beat smooth.— Just before you put it into the oven, stir in three quar ters of a pound of flour, butter your pan, put it into a moderate oven, and an hour will bake it. Currant Cakes. Dry well before a fire a pound and a half of fine flour, take a pound of butter, half a pound of fine loaf 230 BISCUITS. sugar well beaten and sifted, four yolks of eggs, foui spoonsful of rose-water, the same of sack, a little mace, and a nutmeg grated. Beat the eggs well, and put them to the rose-water and sack. Then put to it the sugar and butter. Work them all together, and then strew in the currants and flour, having taken care to have them ready warmed for mixing. You may make six or eight cakes of them ; but mind to bake them of a fine brown, and pretty crisp Whigs. Put half a pint of warm milk to three quarters of a pound of fine flour, and mix in it two or three spoons- ful of light barm. Cover it up, and set it before the fire an hour, in order to make it rise. Work into the paste four ounces of sugar, and the same quantity of butter. Make it into cakes or whigs, with as little flour as possible, and a few seeds, and bake them in a quick oven. Common Biscuits. Beat eight eggs well up together, and mix with them a pound of sifted sugar with the rind of a lemon grated. Whisk it about till it looks light, and tlien put in a pound of flour, with a little rose-water. Su- gar them over, and bake them on tins, or on papers. Sponge Biscuits. Beat the yolks of twelve eggs for half an hour; then put in a pound and a half of sugar beat and sifted, and whisk it till you see it rise in bubbles. Then beat the whites to a strong froth, and whisk them well u ith your sugar and yolks. Work in fourteen ounces of flour, with the rinds of two lemons grated. Bake them in tin moulds buttered, and in a quick oven. — They will take about half an hour baking; but before yon put them into the oven, remember to sift pounded suflfar over them. Spanish Biscuits. Take the yolks of eight eggs, beat them half an hour, and then put to them eight spoonsful of sifted BISCUITS, c^-C. 231 sugar. Then beat the whites to a strong froth, and work them well ^vith the yolks and sugar. Put in four spoonsful of flour, and a little lemon-peel cut fine Mix all well together, and bake them on paper. Drop Biscuits. Beat up the whites of six eggs, and the yolks of ten, with a spoonful of rose-water, and thenpui in ten ounces of beaten and sifted loaf sugar. Whisk them well for half an hour, and then add an ounce of car- raway-seeds crushed a little, and six ounces of fine flour. Mix the whole well together, drop them on papers, and bake them in a moderately heated oven. Lemon Biscuits. Take the yolks often eggs, and the Avhites of five, and beat them well together, with fom* spoonsful of orange-flower water, till they froth up. Then put in a pound of loaf sugar sifted, beat it one way for half an hour or more, put in half a pound of flour, with the raspings of two lemons, and the pulp of a small one. Butter your tin, and bake it in a quick oven ; but do not stop up the mouth at first, for fear it should scorch. Dust it with sugar before you put it into the oven. Macaioons. Blanch and beat fine a pound of sweet almonds, and put to them a pouiul of sugar and a little rose- water, to keep them from oiling. Then beat the whites of seven eggs to a froth, put them in, and work the whole well together. Drop them on tN^afer-paper, grate sugar over them, and put them into the oven. Green Caps. Having gathered as many codlins as you want just before they are ripe, green them in the same man ner as for preserving. Then rub them over with a httle oiled butter, grate double-refined sugar over them, and set them in the oven till they look bright, and suarkle like frost. Then take them out, and put them ^0 ' 232 BISCUITS, i^c. into a cliina dish. Make a very fine custard, and pour it round them. Stick single flowers in every apple, and serve them up. Black Caj)s. Take out the cores, and cut into halves twelve large apples. Place- them on a tin patty-pan as close as they can lie, \vith the flat side downwards. Squeeze a lemon into two spoonsful of orange-flower water, and pour it over them. Shred some lemon-peel fine, and throw over them, and grate fine sugar over all. Set them in a quick oven, and half an hour will do them. When you send them to table, strew fine sugar all over the dish. Snoiu Balls. Pare and take out the cores of five large baking apples, and fill the holes with orange or quince marma- lade. Then make some good hot paste, roll your ap- ples in it, and make your crust of an equal thickness. Put them in a tin dripping-pan, bake them in a mo- derate oven, and when you take them out, make icing for them, directions for which you will find at the close of the second section in the next chapter. Let your icing be about a quarter of an inch thick, and set them at a good distance from the fire till they are hardened ; but take care you do not let them brown. Put one in the middle of a dish, and the others round it. 233 CHAPTER XX. THE ART OF CO^FECTIOJVARY. SECT. I. THE METHOD OF PREPARING SUGARS AND COLOURS. THE first process in the art of confectionary is tliat of clarifying sugars, which requires great care and attention, and must be done according to the following direction : Break the white of an egg into your preserving-pan, put to it four quarts of w^ater, and beat it up to a froth with a whisk. Then put in twelve pounds of sugar, mix all together, and set it over the fire. When it boils put in a little cold water, and in this manner proceed as many times as may be necessary, till the scum appears thick on the top. Then remove it from the fire, and when it is settled take ofi" the scum, and pass it through a straining-bag. If the sugar should not appear very fine, give it another boil before you strain it. — This is tlie first operation, having done which you may proceed to clarify your sugar to eitho'* of the following degrees: 1. Smooth or Candy Sugar. — After having gone through the first process, as before directed, put what quantity you may have occasion for over the fire, and let it boil till it is smooth. This you may know by dipping your skimmer into the sugar, and then touch- ing it between your fore-finger and thumb, and im- mediately on opening them, you wall observe a small thread drawn between, whicli will immediately break, and remain on a drop on your thumb, which will be a sign of its being in some degree of smoothness. Then give it another boiling, and it will draw into a larger string, when it will have acq ired the first degree, from whence we procci^d to, No. 10. 2 G 234 CONFECTIONARY, 2. Bloom Suga7\ — In tliis degree of refining sugar, you must boil it longer than in the former process, and then dip your skimmer in, shaking oft' what sugar you can into the j)an then blow with your mouth strongly through the holes, and if certain bladders, or bubbles, go through, it will be a proof that it has acquired the second degre*^ 3. Featheied Sui^ar. — To prove this degree, dip the skimmer into the sugar when it lias boiled longer than in the former degrees. When you have so done, first shake it over the pan, then give it a sudden flirt behind you, and if it is enough, the sugar will fly off" like feathers. 4. Crackled Sugai\ — Boil your sugar longer than in the preceding degree ; then dip a stick into it, and immediately put it into a pan of cold water, w hich you must have by you for tliat purpose. Draw ofl' the sugar that hangs to the stick into the water, and if it becomes hard, and snaps, it has acquired the proper degree ; but if otherwise, you must boil it again till it answers that trial. Be particularly careful that the w^ater you use for this purpose is perfectly cold, other- wise you will be greatly deceived. 5. Carmel Sugai^s. — To obtain the last degree, your sugar must boil longer than in either of the former operations. You must prove it by dipping a stick, first into the sugar, and then into cold water ; but this you must observe, that when it comes to the carmel height, it will, the moment it touches the water, snap like glass, which is the highest and last degree of refining sugar. When you boil this, take care that your fire is not too fierce, lest it should, by flaming up the sides of the pan, cause the sugar to burn, discolour it, and thereby destroy all your labour. Having thus described the various degrees of refin- ing sugar, we shall now point out the method of pre- paring those colours with which they may be tinged, according to the fimcy, and the different purposes for which they are to be used. CONFECTIONARY. 235 Red Colour, To make this colour, boil an ounce of cochineal m half a pint of water, for abov^e five minutes; then add half an ounce of cream of tartar, and half an ounce of pounded alum, and boil the whole on a slow fire about as long again. In order to know if it is done, dip a pen into it, write on white paper, and if it shows the colour clear, it is sufficient. Then take it off the fire, add two ounces of sugar, and let it settle. Pour it clear off, and keep it in a bottle well stopped for use. Blue Colour. This colour is only for present use, and must be made thus : put a little warm water into a plate, and rub an indigo stone in it till tlie colour is come to the tint you would have it. The more you rub it, the higher the colour will be. Yelloiv Colour. This is done by pouring a little water into a plate, and rubbing it with a bit of gamboge. It may also be done with yellow lily thus : take the heart of the flower, infuse the colour with milk-warm water, and preserve it in a bottle well stopped. Green Colour. Trim the leaves of some spinach, boil them about half a minute in a little water, then strain it clear off, and it will be fit for use. Any alteration may be made in these colours, by mixing to what shade you think proper; but on these occasions taste and fancy must be your guide. Devices in Sugar. Steep gum-tragacanth in rose-water, and with some Jouble-refined sugar make it into a paste. Colour it to your fancy, and make up your device in such forms as you may think proper. You may have moulds made in various shapes for this purpose, and your de- vices will be pretty ornaments placed on the top of iced cakes. 20* 236 CREAMS. Sugar of Roses in various figures. Chip ofl' the white part of some rose-buds, and drV them in the sun. Pound an ounce of them very fine ; then take a pound of loaf-sugar, wet it in some rose- water, and boil it to a candy height; then put in your powder of roses, and the juice of a lemon. Mix all well together, then put it on a pie-plate, and cut it into lo- zenges, or make it into any kind of shapes or figures your fancy may draw. If you want to use them as ornaments for a desert, you may gild or colour them to your taste. SECT. II. CREAMS and JAMS. Orange Cream. Pare off the rind of a Seville orange very fine, and then squeeze out the juice of four oranges. Put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of water, and eight ounces of sugar ; mix with them the whites of five eggs well beat, and set the whole over the fire. Stir it one Avay till it becomes thick and white, then strain it through ri gauze, and keep stirring it till it is cold. Then beat the yolks of five eggs very fine, and put it into your pan with some cream and tlie other articles. Stir it over a slow fire till it is ready to boil, and pour it into 1 basin, and having stirred it till it is quite cold, put it into your glasses. Lemon Cream. Cut off the rinds of two lemons as thin as you can, then squeeze out the juice of three, and add to them a pint of spring water. Mix with them the whites of six eggs beat very fine, sweeten it to your taste, and keep stirring it till it thickens, but be careful it does not boil. Strain it through a cloth, then mix with it the yolks of six egos well beat up, and put it over the fire to thicken. Then pour it into a bowl, and whec it is thoroughly cold, put it into your glasses. CREAMS. £37 Hartshorn Cream. Take fom- ounces of the shavings of hartshorn, boil theni in three pints of water till it is reduced to half a pint, and then run it through a jelly-bag. Put to it a pint of cream, and four ounces of fine sugar, and let it just boil up. Put it into jelly-glasses, let it stand till it is cold, and then, by dipping your gla.sses into scald- ing water, it will slip out whole. Then stick them all over with slices of almonds cut lengthways. It is gene- rally eaten with w hite wine and sugar. Burnt Cream. Take a little clarified sugar, put it into your sugar- pan, and let it boil till it colours in the pan ; then pour in your cream, stirring it all the time till the sugar is dissolved. The cream may be made in the following manner : to a pint of cream take five eggs, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, and a spoonfal of orange-flow er water; set it over the fire, stirring it till it is thick', but be sure it does not boil, or else it will curdle. Burnt Cream another Way. Boil a pint of cream with sugar and a little lemon- peel sirred fine ; and then beat up the yolks of six, and the wiiites of four eggs separately. When your cream has got cool, put in your eggs, with a spoonfal of orange- flower water, and one of fine flour. Set it over the fire, keep stirring it till it is thick, and then pour it into a dish. When it is cold, sift a quarter of a pound of fine sugar all ov^er it, and hold a hot salamander over it till it is of a nice light brown colour. Blanched Cream. Take a quart of very thick cream, and mix with it some fine sugar and orange-flower water. Boil it, and beat up the whites of twenty eggs, with a little cold cream; strain it, and wiien the cream is upon the boil, pour in the eggs, and keep stirring it till it comes to a thick curd. Then take it up, and strain it through a Hair sieve ; beat it well with a spoon till it is cold, and then put it into a dish. 238 CREAMS. Crean„ a-la Franchipane. Pu twG spoonsful of flour into a stew-pan, with some gi'ated ienion-peel, some dried orange-flowers shred fine, and a little salt; beat up the yolks and whites of six eggs, with a pint of milk, and a bit of sugar; make it boil, and stir it over the Are half an hour: when cold, use it to make a franchipane pie or tartlets, for which nothing more is necessary than to put it upon a puff-paste, and when it is cold glaze it with sugar. You may put in a few ratifia biscuits to give it a flavour. Whijyt Cream. Take the whites of eight eggs, a quart of thick cream, and half a pint of sack. Mix them together, and sv^^eeten it to your taste with double-refined sugar. You may perfume it, if you please, with a little musk or ambergris tied in a rag, and steeped a little in the cream. Whip it up with a wliisk, and some lemon-peel tied in the middle of the whisk. Take the froth with a spoon, and lay it in your glasses or basins. This put over fine tarts has a pretty appearance. Spanish Cream. Take three spoonsful of flour of rice sifted very fine, the yolks of three eggs, three spoonsful of water, and two of orange-flower water. Then put to them one pint of cream, and set it upon a good fire ; keep stirring it till it is of a pre per thickness, and then pour it into cups. Steeple Cream. Take five ounces of hartshorn and two ounces of isinglass, and put them into a stone bottle ; fill it up v.'ith fair water to the neck; put in a small quantity of gum-arabic and gum-dragon; then tie up the bottle very close, and set it into a pot of water, with hay at the bottom. When it has stood six hours, take it out, and let it stand an hour before you open it; then strain it, and it will be a strong jelly. Take a pound of blanched almonds, beat them very fine, mix it with a pint of thick cream, and let it stand a little ; then strain :reams. 239 ♦ It out, and mix it with a pound of je^y ; set it over tlie (ire till it is scalding hot, and sweeten it to your taste with double-refined sugar. Then take it otf, put in a little amber, and pour it into small high gallipots. When it is cold, turn them, and lay cold cream about them in heaps. Be careful it does not boil when you put in the crean . Barley Cream. Take a small quantity of pearl barley, boil it in milk and water till it is tender, and then strain off the liquor. Put your barley into a quart of cream, and let it boil a little. Take the whites of five eggs, and the yolk of one, and beat them up with a spoonful of fine tlour, and two spoonsful of orange-flower water. Then take the cream oft' the fire, mix in the eggs by degrees, and set it over the fire again to thicken. Sweeten it to your taste, and pour it into basins for use. Pistachio Cream. Take out the kernels of half a pound of pistachio nuts, and beat them in a mortar with a spoonfid of brandy. Put them into a pan with a pint of good cream, and the yolks of two eggs beat fine. Stir it gently over the fire till it grows thick, and then put it into a china soup-plate. When it is cold, stick it over with small pieces of the nuts, and send it to table. Tea Cream. Boil a quarter of an ounce of fine hyson tea with half a pint of milk ; then strain it, and put in half a pint of cream, and two spoonsful of rennet. Set it over some hot embers in the dish you intend to send to table, and cover it with a tin plate. When it is thick it will be done, and fit to serve up. Coffee Cream. Boil three ounces of coffee with a pint and a half of water, and when it has boiled up four or five times, let it settle, and pour it olf clear. Put it into a stew- pan, with a pint of milk sweetened to your taste, and 240 TREAMS.^ let it boil till there remains no more than sufficient for the size of your disli : beat np the yolks of six eggs with a little flour, and then add some cream ; strain it through a sieve into your ste\v-))an, and thicken it over the fire. Serve it up, after passing a hot salamander, not too hot, over it. Chocolate Cream. Take a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate, and having scraped it linis put to it as much water as will dissolve it. Thoi beat it half an hour in a mor- tar, and put in as much fine sugar as will sweeten it, and a pint and a half of cream. Mill it, and as the froth rises, lay it on a sieve. Put the remainder of your cream in posset-glasses, and lay the frothed cream upon them. Chocolate Cream another Way. Scrape two squares of chocolate, and put them into a stew-pan, with four ounces of sugar, a pint of milk, and half a pint of creani ; let it boil till a third is consumed, and when nearly cold, beat up the yolks of seven eggs with it, and strain the whole through a sieve. Set your cream over the fire to thicken, but it must not boil. Pompadour Cream. Beat the whites of five eggs to a strong froth, then put them into a pan, with two spoonsful of orange- flower water, and two ounces of sugar. Stir it gently f )" three or four minutes, then put it into your dish, and pour melted butter over it. This must be served up liot, and makes a pretty corner dish for a second course at dinner. Ratijia Cream. Take six large laurel leaves, and boil them in a quart of thick milk with a little ratifia, and when it has boiled throw aw^ay the leaves Beat the yolks of four eggs with a little cold cream, and sweeten it with sugar to your taste. Then thicken the cream with your eggs, and set it over the fire again, but do not let it boil. Keep stirring it all the time one way, and then pour it into china dish»:'s. This must be served up cold. CREAMS, cold, skim off all the f- 1, and take 21 244 JELLIES. tlie jelly up clean. Leave Avhat settling may remain at tiie bottom, and pnt the jelly into a saucepan, with a pint of mountain wine, half a pound of loaf-su of six or eight eggs well beat up; stir all well together, put it on the hre, and let it boil a few minutes. Pour it into a large flannel ])ag, and repeat it till it runs clear; then have ready a large china basin, and put into it some lemon-peel cut as thin as possible. Let the jelly ran into the basin, and the lemon-peel will not only give it a pleasing colour, but a grateful flavour. Fill your glasses, and it will be flt for use. Hartshorn Jelly. Boil half a pound of hartshorn in three quarts of water over a gentle fire, till it becomes a jelly. If you take out a little to cool, and it hangs on a spoon, it is enough. Strain it while it is hot, put it into a well-tin- ned saucepan, and add to it a pint of Rhenish wine, and a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar. Beat the VA'hites of four eggs or more to a froth, stir it altogether that the w hites may mix well with the jelly, and pour it in as if you were cooling it. Let it boil two or three minutes, then put in the juice of three or four lemons, and let it boil a miriute or two longer. When it is finely curdled, and of a pure white colour, have ready a s^van-skin jelly-bag over a china basin, pour in your jelly, and pour it back again till it is as clear as rock- water ; then set a very clean china basin under, have your glasses as clean as possible, and with a clean spoon fill them. Have ready some thin rind of lemons, and when you liave filled half your glasses, throw" your peel into the basin. When the jelly is all run out of the bag, with a clean spoon fill the rest of the glasses, and they will look of a fine amber colour. Put in le- mon and sugar to your palate, but renjember to make it pretty sweet, otherwise it will not be palatable. No fixed rule can be given for putting in the ingredients, which can only be regulated according to taste and fancy. JELLIES. 245 Orange Jelly. Take three ounces ofisinglass, and a quart of water, let it boil till the isinglass is all dissolved, then put in three quarters of a pound of tine sugar, the juice of four lemons, and twelve oranges if small, if large eight; let tiie rinds of six of the oranges be rubbed on some sugar, and scraped into yoju' isinglass while boiling; when done, strain it through a fine lawn sieve; if you have any dried crocus flowers to boil in your jelly it will give it a fine yellow tinge, and leave no taste. Fruit in Jelly, Put into a basin half a pint of clear calf's feet jelly, and when it is set and stiff, lay in three fine peaches, and a bunch of grapes with the stalk upwards. Put over them a few vine leaves, and then fill up your bowl with jelly. Let it stand till the next day, and then set your basin to the brim in hot water. When you perceive it gives way from the basin, lay your dish over it, turn your jelly carefully out, and serve it to table. Blanc Mange. There are various methods of making this jelly, but the best, and those most usually practised are three ; the first of which is termed green, and is prepared from isinglass in the following manner : Having dissolved your isinglass, put to it two ounces of sweet, and the same quantity of bitter almonds, with some of the juice of spinach to make it green, and a spoonful of French brandy. Set it over a stove fire in a saucepan, and let it remain till it is almost ready to boil ; then strain it througii a gauze siev^e, and when it grows thick, put it into a melon mould, let lie till the next day, and then turn it out. You may garnish it with red and while flowers. The second method of preparing this jelly is also from 'singlass, and must be done thus: put into a quart of water an ounce of isinglass, and let it boil till it is re- duced to a pint; then put in the whites of lour eggs, with tv o spoonsful of rice vrater, and sweeten it to 2^i>6 JELLIES- your taste. Run it thronie pulp, and put the rinds into a pretty strong salt and hard water for six days. Then boil them in a large quantity of spring water till they are tender. Take them out, and lay them on a hair sieve to drain. Then make a thin syrup of fine loaf sugar, a pound to a quart of water. Put in your peels, and boil them half an hour, or till they look clear, and have ready a thick syrup, made of fine loaf sugar, with as much wa- ter as will dissolve it. Put in your peels, and boil them over a slow fire till you see the syrup candy about the pan and peels. Then take them out, and grate fine sugar all over them. Lay them on a hair sieve to drain, and set them in a stove, or before the fire to dry. Candied Ginger. Take an ounce of race ginger grated fine, a pound of loaf sugar beat fine, and put them into a preserving N'j. 12. 2 r. 266 CANDYING, ^C. pan, with as much water as will dissolve the siigai Stir them well together over a very slow fire till tin sugar begins to boil. Then stir in another pound (rl sugar beat fine, and keep stirring it till it grows thick. Then take it oil' the fire, and drop it in cakes upon earthen dishes. Set them in a warm place to dry, and they will be hard and brittle, and look white. Candied Ilorehound. Let your horehound be boiled in water till the ju:ce is quite extracted. Take your sugar, and boil it up ic a feather, then add your juice to tlie sugar, and lei it boil till it is again the same height. Stir it with a spoon against the sides of your sugar-pan, till it begins to grow thick, then |X)ur it out into a paper case that is dusted with fine sugar, and cut it into squares. You may dry the horehound, and put it into the sugar finely powdered and sifted. Candied Almond Cake, or Gateau JS'oga. Take some fine powder sugar, put it into your stew-pan, aud stir it over the fire till tiie sugar is near- ly dicsolved ; have ready half a pound of almonds sliced and parched. Put theni into the sugar you have over the fire, and keep stirring them well about till your almonds are a nice brown ; take a jelly-mould or stew- pan, oil it well, and put your almonds into it ; keep the<- 1> well up to the sides, and when cold, you may turn I't out to cover a burnt cream or boiled custard ; or it may be served up just as it is. Sometimes they are ornamented like Savoy cakes, and look veiy handsome Candied Rhubarb Cakes. Take an oimce of rhubarb in powder, an ounce of fine powder-ginger, eighteen ounces of sugar, three drops of oil of peppermint; boil your sugar up to a feather, then mix all the ingredients, stirring them till it begins to grain. Have ready a square paper case, sugared with fine p wdcr sugar : when cold, cut them in square pieces. CANDYING, c^C. 267 Compote of Crude Orange. Cut the upper part of six sweet oranges in such a ii.anrier as to put them together as if tliey ^^ere Avhole. Pierce the pulps in several phxces witli a httle knife, and put in some fine powder sugar; then replace the pieces you have cut off, and s-erve them up in v«ur desert. Compote of Jtpplci^ Take a dozen of goklen pippins, pare them nicely, and take the core out with a small penknife ; put them into some water, and let them he well scalded ; then take a little of the water with some sugar, and a few apples Avhich may be sliced into it, and let the whole boil till it comes to a syrup : then pom* it over your pippins, and garnish them with dried cherries and le- mon-peel cnt fine. You must take care that your pip- pins are not split. Compote of Pears. Let what quantity of pears you wish to be nicely scalded till soft, then take them out, pare them, and tlirow them into cold water to harden; take some su- gar, cinnamon, red wine, and cloves, and put your pears into it; let them gently boil till a syrup : you may add some cochineal to give tliem a fine colour. Compote of Quinces. These may be cut in quarters and done in the same way as the apples, taking care that the quinces are done quite tender before you put them into the sugar. Let the syrup of all your compotes be thick before you dish them up. Orange i'hips. Get some of the best Seville oranges you can, pare them at least about a quarter of an inch broad, and if you can keep the parings whole, they will have a pret- ty effect. When you have pared as many as you in- tend, put them into salt and spring water for a day or two ; then boil them in a large quantity of spring w atei till they are tender, and drain them on a sieve. Havtf 23 268 CANDYING, ^-C. ready a thin syrup made of a quart of water, and a poinid of snc^ar. Boil tlicm a few at a time, to keep ilieiii from breaking till tiicy look ck'ar. Then put them into a syrup made of fine loaf sugar, with as much water as will dissolve it, and boil them to a candy iieight. When you take tliem up, lay them on a sieve, and grate double-refmed sugar over them. Then put them in a «tovc, or before the Are to dry. Orange Marmalade. Get the clearest Seville oranges you can, cut them in two, take out all the pulp and juice into a basin, and pick all the skins and seeds out of it. Boil the rinds in hard water till they are tender, and change the water two or three times while they are boiling. Then pound them in a marble mortar, and add to it the juice and pulp. Then put them in tlie ])reserving-pan with double its weight of loaf sugar, and set it over a slow fire. Boil it rather more than half an hour, put it into pots, cover it with brandy-paper, and tie it close down. Apricot Marmalade. Apricots that are too ripe for keeping best answer this purpose. Boil them in syrup till they will mash, and then beat them in a marble mortar to a paste. Take half their weightof loaf sugar, and add just water enough to dissolve it. Boil and skim it till it looks clear, and the syrup like a fine jelly. Then put it in- to your sweetmeat glasses, and tie it up close. Quince Marmalade These must likewise be full ripe for the purpose ol making marmalade. Pare them, and cut them into quarters; then take out the cores, and put the fruit into a saucepan. Cover them with the parings ; nearly fill the saucepan with spring-water, cover it close,- and let them stew over a slow fire till they are soft and of a pink colour. Then pick out the quinces from the pa- rings, and beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar, fake their weiglit of fine loaf sugar, put as much CANDYING, i^C. 269 water to it as will dissolve it, and boil and skim it veil Then put in yoar quinces, boil tlieni gently three quar- ters of an hour, and keep stirring tiiem all the time. When it is cold, put it into flit pots, tie it down close, and set it by for use. Transparent Marmalade. Cut very pale Seville oranges into quarters, take out the pulp, put it into a basin, and pick out the skins and seeds. Put the peels into a little salt and water, and let them stand all night. Then boil them in a good quantity of spring water till they are tender, cut them in very thin slices, and put them into the pulp. To every pound of marmalade put a pound and a half of double-refined sugar, finely beaten, and boil them together gently for twenty minutes ; but if not clear and transparent in that time boil it five or six minutes longer. Keep stirring it gently all the time, and take care you do not break the slices. When it is cold, put it into jelly or sweetmeat glasses, and tie them down tight with brandy-paper and a bladder over them. Burnt Almonds. Take two pounds of almonds, and put them into a stew-pan, with the same quantity of sugar, and a pint of water. Set them over a clear coal fire, and let them boil till you find the almonds crack. Then take them off, and stir them about till they are quite dry. Put them in a wire sieve, and sift all the sugar from them. Put the sugar into the pan again with a little water, and give it a boil. Then pour fom* spoons- ful of cochineal to the sugar to colour it, put the almonds into the pan, and keep stirring them over the fire till they are quite dry. Then put them into a large glass, and they will keep all the year. Raspberry Paste. Mash a quart of raspberries, strain one half, and put the juice to the other half Boil them a quarter of an hovu*, put to them a pint of red currant juice, 270 ORNAMENTS IK and let ilicm boil all together till your raspberr es are enough. Then put n pound and a half of double-refincd sugar into a pau, \/ith as much water as will dis- solve it, and boil it to a sugar again. Put in your rasp- berries and ju'ce, give them a scald, and pour it into glasses or plates. T!»cn ])ut them into a sto\'e, and turn tliem at times till they are thoroughly dry. Currant Paste. Currant paste maybe either red or white, accord- ing to the colour of the currants you use. Strip your ciu'rants, put a little juice to them to keep them from burning, boil them well, and rub them through a hair sieve. Then boil it a quarter of an hour, and to a pint of juice put a pound and a half of double-refmcd sugar pounded and sifted. Shake in your sugar, and when it is melted, pour it on plates. Dry it in the same manner as the raspberry paste, and turn it into any form you like best. Gooseberry Paste. Take some full grown red gooseberries, just on the turn for ripening, cut them in halves, and pick out all the seeds. Have ready a ])int of cui rant juice, and boil your gooseberries in it till they are tender. Put a pound and a half of double-refmed sugar into your pan, with as much water as will dissolve it, and boil it to sugar again. Then put all together, and make it scalding hot, but do not let it boil. Pour it into your plates or glasses, and dry it as before directed. SECT. VI. , ORNAMENTS in CONFECTIONARY. Artificial Fruit. At a proper time of the year, take care to save the stalks of the fruit, with the stones to them. Get some tins neatly made in the shape of the fruit you intend to imitate, leaving a hole at the top, to put in the stone CONFECTIONARY. 27J and stalk. They must be so contrived as to open in the middk^ to take out the fruit, and there must also l)e made a frame of wood to fix them in. Great care must be taken to make tlie tins very smooth in tlie in- side, otherwise their roughness will mark the fruit; and that they be made exactly of the shape of the fruit that they are intended to represent. Being prepared with your tins, proceed thus : take two cow-heeis, and a calf's foot, boil them in a gallon of soft water till they are all boiled to rags, and when 3'ou have a full quart of jelly, strain it through a sieve. Then put it into a saucepan, sweeten it, put in a lemon-peel perfumed, and colour it like the fruit you intend to imitate. Stir all together, give it a boil, and fill your tins : then put in the stones and the stalks just as the fruit grows, and when the jelly is quite cold, open your tins, and put on the bloom, which may be done by carefully dusting on powder-blue. Keep them covered to prevent the dust getting to them; and to the eye, art will be an excellent substitute for nature Jl Dish of Snow Take twelve large apples, and put them into a saucepan with cold water. Set them over a slow fire, and \vhen they are soft, pom* them into a hair sieve ; take off" the skins, and put the pulp into a basin. Then beat the whites of twelve eggs to a very strong frolii; heat and sift half a pound of double-refined sugar, and strew it into the eggs. Work up the pulp of your ap- ples to a strong froth, then beat them altogether till they are like a stiff snow. Lay it upon a china dish, and heap it up as high as you can. Set round it green knots of paste,, in imitation of Chinese rails, and stick a sprig of myrtle Ji\ the middle of the dish. Moonshine. Ge t a piece of tin the shape of a half moon, as deep as a half pint basin, and one in the shape of a large stai , and two or three lesser ones. Boil two calf "s feet in gallon of water till it comes to a quart, then 23* 272 ORNAMEISTJ3 IN strain it ofl', and wlicn cokl, sUini oil the f;it. Take half the jelly, and sweeten it ^^ itli sugar to your palate. Beat up the whites of four eggs, stir all together over a slow hre till it boils, and then run it through a flan- nel h;ig till clear. Put it in a clean saucepan, and take an ounce of sweet almonds, blanched, and beat very line in a marble mortar, with two spoonsful of rose- water, and two of <>range-ilo^^er \\ater. Then strain it through a coarse cloth, mix it with the jelly, put in four spoonsful of thick cream, and stir it altogether till it boils. Then have ready the dish you intend it for, lay the tin in the shape of a half moon in the middle, and the stars round it. Lay little weights on the tins, to keep them in the place where you put them. Then pour the moonshine into the dish ; and when it is quite cold, take out the tins. Then fill up the vacancies with clear calf s [ect jelly. You may colour your moonshine with cochineal and chocolate, to make it look like the. sky, and your moon and stars ^^ill then shine the brighter. Garnish it with rock candy sweet- meats. Float lui^ Island. Take a soup-dish of a size proportioned to what vou intend to make : but a deep glass set on a china dish will answer the purpose better. Take a quart of the thickest cream you can get, and make it pretty sweet with fine sugar. Pour in a gill of sack, grate in the yellow rind of a lemon, and mill the cream till it is of a thick froth : then carefully pour the thin from the froth into a dish. Cut a French roll, or as many as you want, as thin as you can, and put a layer of it as light as possible on the cream, then ^ layer of cur- rant jelly, then a very thin layer of roll, then hartshorn jelly, then French roll, and over that whip your froth which you saved off the cream, well milled up, and lay it on the top as high as you can heap it. Ornament the rim of your dish with figures, fruits, or sweetmeats, as you please. This looks very pretty on the middle of a table, with candles rornid it; and you may make COi^FECTIONARY. 273 it of as many different colours as you fancy, acccrdlng to what jellies, jams, or sweetmeats you have. Desert Island. Take a lump of paste and form it into a rock three inches broad at the top ; then colour it, and set it in the middle of a deep chin i dish. Set a cast figure on it witli a crown on its he id, and a knot of rock candy at its feet : then make a roll of paste an inch thick, and stick it on the inner edge of the dish, two parts round. Cut eight pieces of eringo-roots, about three inches long, and fix them upright to the roll of paste on the edge. Make grave . walks of shot comfits roimd tiie dish, and set smaU figures in them. Roll out some paste, and cut it open like Chinese rails. Bake it, and fix it on either side of the gravel walks with gum, and form an entrance where the Chinese rails are, with two pieces of eringo-root for pillars. Chinese Temple, or Obelisk. Take an ounce of fine sugar, half an ounce of but- ter, and four ounces of fine flour. Boil the sugar and butter in a little water, and when it is cold, beat up an egg, and put it to the water, sugar, and butter. Mix it with the flour, and make it into a very stifl" paste ; then roll it as thin as possible, have a set of tins in the form of a temple, and put the paste upon them. Cut it in what form you please upon the separate parts of your tins, keeping them separate till baked ; but take care to have the paste exactly the size of the tins. When you have cut all these parts, bake them in a slow oven, and when cold, take them out of the tins, and join the parts with strong isinglass and water with a camel's hair brush. Set them one upon the other, as the forms of the tin moulds will direct you. If you cut it neatly, and the paste is rolled very thin, it will be a beautiful corner for a large table. If you have obelisk moulds, you may make them the same way for an opposite corner. Be careful to make the pillars stronger than the top, that tl.ey may not be crushed by their weight "^No. 12 w 2 M 274 PICKLING. These ornamental decorations in confectionary are calculated to embellish grand entertainments, and it is certain they have all a very pleasing efl'ect on the sight; out their beauties depend entirely on the abilities and ingenuity of the artist. CH.l PTER XXI. P IC K L J JS-G. PICKLES are essentially necessary to be kept in all houses, but particularly such as contain large fami- lies; nor will the prudent and judicious housekeeper be ^vithout them ; and this for two reasons ; first, to avoid the inconvenience of sending for tliem when wanted ; and secondly, from being assm*ed that they are done as they ought to be, that is, that they shall have their proper colour without that artifice which is likely to be prejudicial to those who use them. It is too common a practice to make use of brass utensils in order to give the pickles a fine green ; but this perni- cious custom is easily avoided by heating the liquor, and keeping it in a proper degree of warmth before you pour it on the articles to be pickled. It is usual to put pickles into earthen jars, but stone jars are by flir the best, for though they are more expensive in the first purchase, they will be found nuich cheaper in the end; the earthen vessels are oorous, and will conse- quently admit the air, and spoil the pickles, especially if they stand any length of time ; but this w ill not be the case w^ith stone jars. Remember, that when you take any pickle out of your jars, be sure never to do it with your fingers, as that will spoil the pickle; but always make use of a spoon, which you should keep entirely for that purpose. Having mentioned these necessary and general ob- servations relative to pickling, ve shall now proceed to particulars, beginning with Mangoes. The proper encumbers to be used for this purpo?* PICKLING. 275 are those of tlie largest sort, which must be taken from the vines before tliey are too ripe, or yellow at the ends. Cut a piece out of the side, and take out the seeds with an apple-scraper or a tea-spoon. Then ])nt them into very strong salt and water for eight or nine days, or till they are yellow. Stir them well two or three times every day, and put them into a pan with a large quan- tity of vine leaves both over and under them. Beat a little roach alum very fine, and put it into the salt and water they came out of Pour it on your cucumbers, and set them on a very slow fire for four or five hours till they are pretty green. Then take them out, and drain them in a hair sieve, and when they are cold, put to them a little horse-radish, then mustard-seed, two or three heads of garlic, a few pepper-corns, a few green cucumbers sliced in small pieces, then horse- radish, and the same as before-mentioned, till you have filled them. Then take the piece you cut out, and sew it on with a large needle a id thread, and do all the rest in the same manner. liuve ready the follow- ing pickle: to every gallon of vinegar put an ounce of mace, the same of cloves, two ounces ofshced ginger, the same of long pepper, Jamaica pepper, three ounces ojf mustard-seed tied np in a bag, four ounces of garlic, and a stick of horse-radish cut iu slices. Boil them five minutes in the vinegar, then pour it upon your pickles, tie them down close, and keep them for use. Girkins, Put a quantity of spring water into a large earthen pan, and to every gallon put two pounds of salt. Mix them well together, and throw in five hundred girkins. When they have been two hours in the salt and water, take them out, and put them to drain ; and when they are thoroughly dry, put them into your jar. Take a gal- lon of the best white wine vinegar, and put it hi a saucepan, with half an qunt^.e of eioves and mace, ^fl ounce of £^ll§pice., the saiue quantity of mustard-seed, a ^tick o,f l^or^e.-rad^sh cut in slices, six bay-leaves, twp or three races of ginger, a nutmeg cut in pieces, and a 276 PICKLINO. handful of salt. Boil up all together, and pour it over tlie girkins. Cover them close down, and let them stand twenty-four hours. Then put their* into your saucepan, and let them simmer o\ er the hre till the} are green; but be careful not to let them boil, as that will spoil them. Then put them into your jar, and cover them down close till they are cold. Then tie them over with a bladder and a piece of leather, ai^d put thein in a dry cold place. Cucumbers. For the purpose of pickling, choose the smallest cucumbers you can get, and be careful they are as free from spots as possible. Put them into strong salt and water for nine or ten days, or till they are quite yellow, and stir them twice a day, at least, or they will grow soft. When they are perfectly yellow, pour the Avater from them, and cover them withplenty of vine leaves. Set your water over the tire, and Avhen it ]x)iis, pour it upon them, and set them u{X)n the hearth to keep warm. Wlien the water is nearly cold, make it boiling hot again, and pour it upon them. 'Proceed in this manner till you perceive they are of a fine green, which they will be in foiu' or five times. Be careful to keep them well covered with vine leaves, with a cloth and dish over the top to keep in the steam, which will help to green them the sooner. When they are greened, put them into a hair sieve to drain, and then make the following pickle for them : to every two quarts of white wine vinegar, put half an ounce of mace, or ten or twelve cloves, an ounce of ginger cut into slices, the same of black pepper, and a handfiil ol salt. Boil them all together for five minutes, pour it hot upon your pickles, and tie them down with a blad- der for use. Cucumbers in slices. Take some large cucumbers before they are too ripe, slice them of the thickness of a crown-piece, and put them into a pewter dish. To every dozen of or PICKLING. 277 cumbers slice two large onions thin, and so on till you have filled your dish, or have got the quantity you in- tend to pickle; but rjniember to put a handliil of salt between every row. Then cover them with another pewter disli, and let them stand twcnty-foin* hours. Tlien put them into a cullender, and when they are thoroughly dry, put them into a jar, cover them over with white wine vinegar, and let them stand four hours- Pour the vinegar from them into a saucepan, and boil it with a little salt. Put to the cucumbers a little mace, a little whole pepper, a large race of ginger sliced, and then pour on them the boiling vinegar. Cover them close, and when they are cold, tie them down, and they will be ready for use in a few days. To Keep Cucumbers. Choose those that are small, and not too old; put them in jars, and pour over a brine like the French beans ; ^^^see p. 281 ;) when you use them take the rind •^it, and dress them in the same manner as others. Walnuts. There are various methods of pickling walnuts, »n order to have them of different colours, the number ui which are four, namely, black, white, olive colour, and green ; each of which we shall describe in their proper order. To pickle walnuts black, you must gather them be- fore the shells get too hard, which may be know^n by riuiniiig a pin into them, and always gather them when the sun is hot upon them. Put them into strong salt and water for nine days, and stir them tw ice a day, observing to change the salt and water every three days. Then put tliem into a hair sieve, and let them stand in the air till they turn black. Put them into strong stone jars, and pour boiling vinegar over them ; cover them up, and let them stand till they are cold. Then give the vinegar three more boilings, pour it each time on the walnuts, and let it stand till it is cold be- tween every Iwiling. Then t'*^ *J»pm down with papei 278 PICKLING. and a bladder over tliem, and let tlieni s'and two months. Wiien that time has elapsed, take them out of the vinei;ar, and make a pickle for them thus : to every two (piarts of vinegar ])ut half an ounce of mace, and the same of cloves ; of black pepper, Jamaica pep- jH-r, long |)i'pper, and ginger, an ounce each, and two o:mccs of common salt. Boil it ten minutes, then pour it hot on your walnuts, tie them close down, and cover tlieni with paper and a bladder. To pickle walnuts \chite, you must proceed thus . liaving procured a sulHcient cpiantity of walnuts, of the largest size, and taken the before-mentioned precaution that the shells are not too hard, pare them very thin till the white appears, and throw them into spring wntcr and a handfid of salt as you do thein. Let ihem lie in the water six hours, and put a thin board upon them to keep them under the water. Then set a stew-pan with some clean spring water on a char- coal fire. Take your nuts out of the water, put them into the stew^-pan, and let them simmer four or five minutes, but be careful they do not boil. Then have ready a pan of spring \vater with a handful of salt in it, and stir it till the salt is melted ; then take your nuts out of the stew-pan with a wooden ladle, or spoon, and put them into the cold water and salt. Let them stand a quarter of an hour, with the board lying on Uiom to keep them down as before ; for if they are not Kept tmder the liquor they will turn black. Then lay (.hem on a cloth, and put them into yorn- jar, with some blades of mace antl nutmeg sliced thin. Mix vo'ir spice between your nuts, and pour distilled vihct gar over them. When your jar is properly filled with nits, pour mutton fat o\'er them, tie them down close wirli a bladder and leather, and set thein in a dr^j phu'e. Walnuts to be pickled of an alive colour, must l>t managed thus: having gathered your walnuts, with the same precautions as before directed, put thorn into stronff ale allerjar, and tie them down inider a bladder Mu\ paper to kei^po'if t';o [\\-. l stand upright in tli<^ dish. Tic a packthread cor-1. ARiNG. 293 across it to hold it together, spit it, then roll the cau'i of a breast of veal all round it, and roast it. When it has been about an hour at the fire, take off the caul, dredge it^vith flour, baste it well with fresh butter, and let it be of a fine brown. It will require on the whole, an hour and a quarter roasting. For sauce take some gravy beef, cut and hack it well, then flour it, and fry it a little brown. Pour into your stew-pan some boil- ing water, stir it well together, and then fill your pan half full of water. Put in an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, a little crust of bread toasted, two or three blades of mace, four cloves, some whole pepper, and the bones of the mutton. Cover it close, and let it stew till it is quite rich and thick. Then strain it, boil it up with some truffles and morels, a few mush- rooms, a spoonful of catsup, and (if you have them) two or three bottoms of artichokes. Put just enough salt to season the gravy, take the packthread off the mutton, and set it upright in the dish. Cut the sweet- bread into four pieces, and boil it of a fine brown, and have ready a few forcemeat balls fried. Lay these round your dish, and pour in the sauce. Garnish with sliced lemon. Beef. Take a piece of thin flank of beef, and bone it; cut off the skin, and salt it with two ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sal prunella, the same quantity of bay- salt, half a pound of coarse sugar, and two pounds of common salt. Beat the hard salts very fine, and mix all together. Turn it every day, and rub it well with the brine for eight days; then take it out, 'vvash it, and wipe it dry. Take a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of mace, twelve corns of allspice, and a nutmeg beat very fine, with a spoonful of beaten pepper, a large quantity of chopped parsley, and some sweet herbs shred fine. Sprinkle this mixture on the beef, and roll it up very tight ; put a coarse cloth round it, and tie it very tight with beggar's tape. Boil it in a copper of water, and if it is a large collar, it will take six liours boiling, but p small one will be done in 294 COLLARING. five. When it is done, take it out, and put it into a press; but if you have not that convenience, put it be- tween two boards, with a weight on tlie uppermost, and let it remain in that state till it is tlioroughly cold. Thm take it out of the cloth, cut it into thin slices, lay thein on a dish, and serve them to table. Garnish your dish Avith raw parslev. Calfs Head. Take a calf 's head with the skin on, scald oil" the hair, take out all the bones carefully from the neck, and lay it some time in warm milk to make it look white. Boil the tongue, peel it, cut that and the palate into thin slices, and put them and the eyes into the middle of the head. Take some pepper, salt, cloves, and mace, and beat them fine ; and add to them some grated nutmeg, scalded parsley, thyme, savory, and sweet marjorum, cut very small. Beat up the yolks of three or four eggs, spread them over the head, and then strew on the seasoning. Roll it up very tight, tie it round with tape, and boil it gently for three hours in as much water as will cover it. When you take it out, season the pickle with salt, pepper, and spice, and add to it a pint of white wine vinegar. When it is cold put in the collar, and cut it in handsome slices Avhen you send it to table. Pis- Bone your pig, and then rub it all over with pep- per and salt beaten fine, a few sage leaves, and sweet herbs chopped small. Roll it up tight, and bind it witli a fillet. Fill your boiler with soft water, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, a few pepper-corns, a blade or two of mace, eight or ten cloves, a handful of salt, and a pint of vinegar. When it boils, put in your pig, and let it boil till it is tender. Then take it up, and when it is almost cold, bind it over again, put it into an earthen pot, and pour the liquor your pig was boiled in upon it. Be careful to cover it close down after yon cut any for use. COLLARING. 296 Eels. When you have thoroiiglily cleansed your eel, cut off the head, tail, and iins, and take out the bones. Lay it flat on the back, and then grate over it a small nutmeg, with two or three blades of mace beat fine, and a little pepper and salt, and strew on these a hjind lul of parsley shred fine, witli a few sage leaves clio])- ped small. Roll it up tight in a cloth, and bind it tight. If it is of a middle size, boil it in salt and water three quarters of an hour, and hang it up all night to drain. Add to the pickle a pint of vinegar, a few pepper-corns, and a sprig of sweet niarjorum; boil it ten minutes, and let it stand till the next day. Then take off the cloth, and put your eels into the pickles. When you send them to table, lay them either whole in the plate, or cut them in slices. Garnish with green parsley. Lampreys may be done in the same manner. Mackarel.. Gut your mackarel, and slit them down the belly; tut off their heads, take out the bones, and be carefal not to cut them in holes. Then lay them flat upon their backs, season them with mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and a handful of parsley shred fine; strew it over them, roll them tight, and tie them vrell separate- ly in cloths. Boil them gently twenty minutes in vinegar, salt, and water, then take them out, put them into a pot, and pour the liquor on them, or the cloth will stick to the fish. Take the cloth off the fish the next day, put a little more vinegar to the pickle, and keep them for use. When you send them to table gar- nish with fennel and parsley, and put some of the liquor under them. Salmon. Take a side of salmon, cut off the tail, then wash the fleshy part well, and dry it with a cloth. Rub it over with the yolks of eggs, and make some forcemeat witlj what you cut off at the tail end. Take ofl'the skin, and put to it some parboiled oysters, a tail or two ol lobstiU's, the volks ol" tln-ee or four eg2;s boiled hard, six 29G POTT I IS G. anchovies, a liandful of sweet herbs chopped small, n little salt, cloves, luace, imtmeg, pepper, and grated bread. AVork all these well togetlier, with yolks of eggs, lay it over the lleshy part, and strew on it a little- pepper and salt. Then roll it np into a collar, and bind it with broad tape. Boil it in water, salt, and vinegar, but let the liquor boil before you put it in, and tlirow in a bunch of sweet herbs, with some sliced ginger and nutmeg. Let it boil gently near two hours, and then take it up. Put it into a pan, and wjjcn the pickle is cold, put it to your salmon, and let it lay in it till wanted. If you cover it with clarified butter, it will keep a considerable time. CHAPTER XXIII. P O T T I JV G. IN this mode of cookery, be sure to make it a rule, that whatever you do it is well covered with clai'ified butter before you send it to the oven, tie it close witli strong paper, and let it be well baked. When it comes from the oven, pick out every bit of skin you can, and drain away the gravy, otherwise the article potted will be apt to turn soin\ Beat your seasoning very fine, and strew it on gradually. Before you put it into your pot, press it well, and before you put on your clarified butter, let it be perfectly cold. SECT. I. MEAT and POULTRY. Venison. Rub your venison all over with red wine; season it with beaten mace, pepper and salt ; put it into an earthen dish, and pour over ithalf a pint of red wine, and a pound of butter, and then send it to the oven. If it be a shoulder, put a coarse paste over it, and let POTTING. 297 it lay in the oven all night. When it comes out, pick the meat clean from the bones, and beat it in a marble mortar, with the fat from yonr gravy. If yon fintl it not sufficiently seasoned, add more, with clarified but- ter, and keep beating it till it becomes like a fine paste. Then press it hard down into your pots, pour clarified butter over it, and keep it in a dry place. Hares. Case your hare, wash it thoroughly clean, then cut it up as you would do for eating; put it into a pot, and season it with pepper, salt, and mace. Put on it a pound of butter, tie it down close, and bake it in a bread oven. When it comes out, pick the meat clean from the bones, and pound it very fine in a mortar, with the fat from your gravy. Then put it close down in your pots, and pour over it clarified butter. Marble Veal. Boil, skin, and cut a dried tongue as thin as possi- ble, and beat it well with near a pound of butter, and a little beaten mace, till it is like a paste. Have rea- dy some veal stewed, and beat in the same manner. Then put some veal into potting-pots, thin some tongue in lumps over the veal. Do not lay on your tongue in any form, but let it be in lumps, and it will then cut like marble. Fill your pot close up with veal, press it very hard down, and pour clarified butter over it. Remember to keep it in a dry place, and when you send it to table, cut it into slices. Garnish it with parsley. Tongues Take a fine neat's tongue, and rub it well over with an ounce of saltpetre and four ounces of brown su- gar, and let it lie two days. Then boil it till it is quite tender, and take off the skin and side bits. Cut the tongue in very thin slices, and beat it in a marble mor- tar with a pound of clarified butter, and season it to your taste with pepper, salt, and mace. Beat all as fine as possible, then press it close down in small pot- ting-pots, and pour over them clarified butter. No. 13. 2 P 298 POTTIIfG. Geese and Fowls. Boil a dried tongue till it is tender; tlien take a goose and a large fowl, and bone them. Take a quar- ter of an ounce of mace, the same quantity of olives, a large nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, and beat all well together, add to these a spoonful of salt, and rub the tongue and inside of the fowl Avell with them. Put the tongue into the fowl, then season the goose, and fill it with the fowl and tongue, and the goose w ill look as L it was whole. Lay it in a pan that will just hold it, melt fresh butter enough to cover it, send it to the oven, and bake it an hour and a half. Then take out the meat, drain the butter carefully from it, and lay it on a coarse cloth till it is cold. Tiien take oft' the hard fat from the gravy, and lay it before the fire to melt. Put your meat again into the pot, and pour your butter over it. If there is not enough, clarify more, and let the butter be an inch above the meat. It will keep a great while, cut fine, and look beautifid, and when you cut it let it be cross- ways. It makes a very pretty corner-dish for dinner, or side-dish for supper. Beef. Take half a pound of brown sugar, and an ounce of saltpetre, and rub it into tw^elve pounds of beef. Let it lie twenty-four hours; then wash it clean, and dry it well with a cloth. Season it to your taste with pepper, salt, and mace, and cut it into five or six pieces. Put it into an earthen pot, with a pound of butter in lumps upon it, set it in a hot oven, and let it stand three hours, then take it out, cut off the hard outsides, and beat it in a mortar. Add to it a little more pep- per, salt, and mace. Then oil a poind of butter in the gravy and fat that came from your beef, and put in as you find necessary; but beat the meat very fine. Then put it into your pot, press it close dowu, pour clarified butter over it, and keep it in a dry place. Another method of potting beef, and which will greatly imitate venison, is this : Take a buttock ot beef and cut the lean of it into pieces of about H POTTING. 299 pound weight each. To eight pounds of beef take tour ounces of saltpetre, the same quantity of bay-salt, half a pound of white salt, and an ounce of sal pru- nella. Beat all the salt very fine, mix them well to- gether, and rub them into the beef Then let it lie four days, turning it twice a day. After that put it into a pan, and cover it with pump water, and a little of its own brine. Send it to the oven, and bake it till it is tender; then drain it from the gravy, and take out all the skin and sinews. Pound the meat well in a mortar, lay it in a broad dish, and mix on it an ounce of cloves and mace, three quarters of an ounce of pep- per, and a nutmeg, all beat very fine. Blix the whole wa'll with the meat, and add a little clai'ified fresh butter to moisten it. Then press it down into pots very hard, set them at the mouth of the oven just to settle, and then cover them two inches thick with clarified butter. When quite cold, cover the pots over ^vith white pa- per tied close, and set them in a dry place. It will keep good a considerable time. Pigeons. Pick and draw" your pigeons, cut off the pinions, w^ash them clean, and put them in a sieve to drain. Then dry them w ith a cloth, and season them with pepper and salt. Roll a lump of butter in chopped parsley, and put it into the pigeons. Sew up the vents, then put them into a pot with butter over them, tie them down, and set them in a moderately heated oven. When they come out, put them into your pots, and pour clarified butter over them. JVoodcocJcs, Take six woodcocks, pluck them, and draw out the train. Skewer their bills through their thighs, put their legs through each other, and their feet upon their breasts. Season them with three or four blades of mace, and a little pepper and salt. Then put them into a deep pot, with a pound of butter over them, and tie a strong paper over them. Bake them in a 300 FISH. moderate oven, aivd when they are enough, lay them on a dish to drain the gravy from them, then put them into potting-pots ; take all tlie clear butter from your gravy, and put it upon them. Fill up your pots with clarified butter. Keep them in a dry place for use Snipes must be done in the same manner. SECT. II. FISH. Take a large eel, and when you have skinned, washed clean, and thoroughly dried it with a cloth, (;ut it into pieces about four inches long. Season them with a little beaten mace and nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a little sal prunella beat fine. Lay them in a pan, and pour as much clarified butter over them as will cover them. Bake them half an hour in a quick oven ; but the size of your eels must be the general rule to determine what time they will take baking. Take them out \vith a fork, and lay them on a coarse cloth to drain. When they are quite cold, season them again with the like seasoning, and lay them close in the pot. Tlien take off the butter they were baked in clear fi'om the gravy of the fisli, and set it in a dish before the fire. When it is melted, pour the butter over them, and put them by for use. You may bone your eels, if you choose ; but in that case you must put in no sal pranella. Salmon. Take a large piece of fresh salmon, scale it, and wipe it clean. Then season it with Jamaica pepper, black pepper, mace, and cloves, beat fine, and mixed with salt, and a little sal prunella : then pour clarified butter over it, and bake it w^ell. When it is done, take it out carefully, and lay it on a cloth to drain. As soon as it is quite cold, season it again, lay it close in your pot, and cover it with clarified butter. Or you may pot it in this manner : Scale and clean a whole salmon, slit it down the back, dry it well, and cut it as near the shape of your FISH. 301 pot as yoi; can. Then take two nutmegs, an ounce of mace and cloves beaten, half an ounce of white pepper, and an ounce of salt. Then take out all the bones, cut ofl' the tail and the head below the fins Season the scaly side first, and lay that at the bottom of the pot; then rub the seasoning on the other side, cover it with a dish, and let it stand all night. It must be put double, and the scaly sides top and bottom. Put some butter at the bottom and top, and cover the pot with some stift' coarse paste. If it is a large fish, it will require three hours baking ; but if a small one, two hours will be sufficient. When it comes out of the oven, let it stand half an hour, then uncover it, raise it up at one end that the gravy may run out, and put a trencher and weight on it effectually to an- swer this purpose. When the butter is cold take it out clear from the gravy, add more butter to it, and put it in a pan before the fire. When it is melted pour it over the salmon, and as soon as it is cold, pa- per it up, put it in a dry place, and it will keep a con- siderable time. Carp, tench, trout, and several other sorts of fish, may be potted in tJje same mamier. Lobster. Boil a live lobster in salt and water, and stick a skewer in the vent to prevent the water getting in. As soon as it is cold, take out all the flesh, beat it fine in a mortar, and season it with beaten mace, grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Mix all together, melt a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and mix it with the lobster as you beat it. When it is beat to a paste, put it into your pot, and press it down as close and hard as you can. Then set some butter in a deep broad pan before the fire, and when it is all melted, take oil the scum at the top, if any, and pour the clear butter over the fish as thick as a crown-piece. The whey and churn-milk will settle at the bottom of the pan ; but take care that none of that goes in, and always iet your butter be very good, or you will spoil all. li vou choose it, you may put in the meat whole, with the 302 CURING. body mixed among it, laying them as close together is you can, and poming tlic butter over them. CHAPTER XXIV. CURING VARIOUS KINDS OF MEATS, SOUSINGS, c^«C. Hams CUT oir a fine ham from a fat hind quarter of pork Take two omices of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, a pound of common salt, and two ounces of sal pru- nella; mix all together, and rub it well. Let it lie a month in this pickle, turning and basting it every day; then hang it in a wood suioke in a dry place, so that no heat comes to it; and, if you intend to keep them long, hang them a month or two in a damp place, and it will make them cut fine and short. Never lay these hams in water till you boil them, and then boil them in a copper, if you have one, or the largest pot 3'ou have. Put them into the water cold, and let them be four or five liours before they boil. Skim the pot well, and often, till it boils. If it is a very large one, three hours will boil it ; if a small one, two hours will do, provided it is a great while before the Avater boils. Take it up half an hour before dinner, pull off the skin, and throw raspings, finely sifted, all over. Hold a red-hot salamander over it, and when dinner is rea- dy, take a few raspings in a sieve, and sift all over the dish, then lay in yovu' ham, and Avith your finger make figures round the edge of your dish. Be sure to boil your ham in as much water as you can, and keep skim- ming it all the time it boils. The pickle you take your liam out of will do finely for tongues. Let them lay in it a fortnight, and then lay them in a place Adhere there is wood smoke, to dry. When you broil any slices of ham or bacon, have some boiling Avater ready, let them lay a minute or two in it, and then put them on a gridiron. This is a very good method, as it takes out the violence of the salt, and makes them have a fim? fia'.c ur. CURING. 305 Hams the Yorkshire Way. Mix well together half a peck of salt, three ounces ot saltpetre, half an ounce of sal prunella, and fiv«' pounds of very coarse salt. Rub the hams well with this : put them into a large pan or pickling- tub, and lay the remainder on the top. Let them lie three days, and then hang them up. Put as much water to the pickle as will cover the hams, adding salt till it will bear an egg, and then boil and strain it. The next morning put in the hams, and press thea: dovvU so that tliey may be covered. Let them lay a fortnight, then rub them well with bran, and dry them. The quan- tity of ingredients here directed, is for doing three middle-^zed hams at once, so that if you do only one, you must proportion the quantity of each article. JYetu England Hams. Get two fine hams, and in the mode of cure for this purpose, proceed as follows : take two ounces of sal prunella, beat it fine, rub it well in, and let them lie twenty-four hours. Then take half a pound of bay- salt, a quarter of a pound of common salt, and one ounce of saltpetre, all beat fine, and half a pound of the coarsest sugar. Rub all these well in, and let them lie two or three days. Then take some white com- mon salt, and make a pretty strong brine, with about two gallons of water and half a pound of brov>n sugar. Boil it well, and scum it when cold ; put in the hams, and turn them every two or three days in the pickle for three weeks. Then hang them up in a chimney, and smoke them well a day or two with horse litter. Afterwards let them hang about a week on the side of the kitchen chimney, and then take them down. Keep them dry in a large box, and cover them well with bran. They will keep good in this state for a year, though if wanted, may be used in a month. Bacon. Take off all the inside fat of a side of pork, and lay it on a loni? board or drebser, that the bloo'i ir.ay run 304 CURING. from it. Rub it well on both sides with gooc salt, and let it lie a day. Then take a pint of bay-salt, a quar- ter of a pound of saltpetre, and beat them both tine; two pounds of coarse sugar, and a quarter of a peck of common salt. Lay your pork in something that will hold the pickle, and rub it well with the above ingre- dients. Lay the skinny side downwards, and baste it every day with a pickle for a fortnight. Then hang it in a wood-smoke, and afterwards in a dry but not hot place. Remember that all hams and bacons should hang clear from every thing, and not touch the wall. Take care to wipe otf the old salt before you put it into the pickle, and never keep bacon or hams in a hot kitchen, or in a room exposed to the rays of th# sun, as all these matters will greatly contribute to make them rusty. Mutton Hams. Take a hind quarter of mutton, cut it like a ham, and rub it well with an ounce of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, and a pound of common salt, mixed well together. Lay it in a deepish tray with the skin down- ward, and baste it with the pickle every day for a fort- night. Then roll it in sawdust, and hang it in a wood- smoke for a fortnight. Then boil it, and hang it up in a dry place. You may dress it whole, or cut slices off, and broil them, which will eat well, and have an ex- cellent flavour. Beef Hams. Cut the leg of a fat Scotch or Welch ox as nearly in the shape of a ham as you can. Take an ounce of bay-salt, an ounce of saltpetre, a pound of common salt, and a pound of coarse sugar, which will be a sufficient quantity for about fourteen or fifteen pounds of beef; and if a greater or less quantity of meat, mix your ingredients in proportion. Pound these ingredients, mix them well together, rub your meat with it, turn it every day, and at the same time baste it well with the pickle. Let it lie in this state for a month, then take it out, roll it in bran or sawdust, and hang it in a wood- Kinoke for a month. Then take it down, hang it in a dry place, and keep it for use. You ;iiay dress it in whatever manner you please, and as occasion may re- quire. If you boil a piece of it, and let it be till it is cold, it will eat very good, and shives like Dutch beef; or it is exceeding tine cut into rashers and broiled, with poachcif eggs laid on the tops. A^eafs Tongue. Scrape your tongue clean, dry it well with a cloth, and then salt it with common salt, and half an ounce of saltpetre well mixed together. Lay it in a deep pan, and turn it every day for a week or ten days. Then turn it again, and let it lay a week longer. Take it out of the pan, dry it with a cloth, strew flour on it, and hang it up in a moderate warm place to dry. Hung Beef. Make a strong brine with bay-salt, saltpetre, and pump- water; put a rib of beef into it, and let it lay for nine days. Then hang it up a chimney where wood or sawdust is burnt. When it is a little dry, w^ash the outside with bullock's blood two or tliree times, to make it look black ; and when it is dry enough boil it, and serve it up with such kind of vegetables as you think proper. Another method of preparing hung beef is this : take the navel-piece, and hang it up in your cellar as long as it will keep good, and till it begins to be a little sappy ; then take it down, cut it into three pieces, and wash it in sugar and water, one piece after another. Then take a pound of saltpetre, and two pounds of bay-salt, dried and pounded small. Mix with them two or three spoonsful of brown sugar, and rub your beef well witli it in every place. Then strew a suf- ficient quantity of common salt all over it, and let the beef lie close till the salt is dissolved, which will be in six or seven dnys. Then turn it every other day for a fortnight, and after th^t hang it up in a warm but not hot place. It may hang a fortnight in the kitclien, and when you want it, boil it in bay-salt and pump- water till it is tender. It will keep when boiled, twc No. 13. 2 Q 306 CURIPfG. or three months rubbing it with a greasy cloth, or putting it two or three minutes into boihnn^ water to take oil" the mouldiness. Dutch Bcff. Take a buttock of beef, cutoirall tlie fat, and rub tlie lean all over with brown sugar. Let it lie two or three hours in a pan or tray, and turn it two or three times. Then salt it with saltpetre and common salt, and let it lay a fortniglit, turning it every day. After the expiration of this time, roll it very straight in a coarse cloth, put it into a cheese-press for a day and a night, and then hang it to dry in a chimney. When you boil it put it into a cloth, and when cold, it will cut like Dutch beef Hunting Beef. Take a pound of salt, two ounces of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, one ounce of cori- anders, one ounce of cloves, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, two ounces of allspice, a quar- ter of a pound of pepper, half an ounce of chyan pep per, and two ounces of ginger ; let the whole be gi'ound and well mixed. Take your buttock of beef and rub it well with the spices, and keep turning and rubbing it every day, one month : when your beef is to be done, take a deep pan, put in your beef with plenty of fat over and imder, taking care that your beef does not touch the bottom of the pan. Cover your pan down close so that the steam does not come out, which may be prevented by putting a paste to the cover made of flour and water. Send it to the oven, and if moderate it will be done enough in five hours. It should not be taken out of 3^our pan till quite cold ; be sure to have plenty of fat, as there must not be any water put in. Pickled Pork. Bone your pork, and then* cut it into pieces of a size suitable to lay iw the pan in which you intend to put it. Rub your pieces first w ith saltpetre, and then xvith two pounds of common salt, and two of bay-salt, SOUSING. 307 mixt J totrether. Put a layer of common salt at the boirtJiii oi your pan or tub, cover every piece over with conimun salt, and lay them one upon anotlier as even as you can, filling the hollow places on the sides with salt. As your salt melts on the top, strew on more, lay a coarse cloth over the vessel, a board over that, and a weight on the board to keep it down. Cover it close, strew on more salt as may be occasionally necessary, and it will keep good till the very last bit. Mock Brawn. Take the head, and a piece of the belly-part of a young porker, and rub them well with saltpetre. Let them lay three days, and then wash them clean. Split the head and boil it, take out the bones, and cut it into pieces. Then take fom' cow-heels boiled tender, cut them in thin pieces, and lay them in the belly-piece i>f pork, with the head cut small. Then roll it up tight with sheet-tin, and boil it four or five hours. When it comes out, set it up on one end, put a trencher on it within the tin, press it down with a large weight, and let it stand all night. Next morning take it out of the tin, and bind it with a fillet. Put it into cold salt and water, and it will be fit for use. If you change the salt and water every four days, it will keep for a long time. Turkey soused in Imitation of Sturgeon. Dress a fine large turkey, dry and bone it, then tie it up as you do a sturgeon, and put it into the pot, with a quart of white wine, a quart of water, the same quantity of good vinegar, and a large handful of salt; but remember that the wine, water, and vinegar, must boil before you put in the turkey, and that the pot must be well skinmied before it boils. When it is enough, take it out, and tie it tighter; but let the liquor boil a little longer. If you think the pickle wants more vinegar or salt, add them when it is t^Jid; and pour it upon the turkey. If you keep it covered close from the air, and in a cool dry place, it 308 soosifVG. will be equally good for some months. Some admire it more than sturgeon, and it is generally eaten with oil, vinegar, and sugar, for sauce. To make fine Sausages. Take six pounds of young pork, free from skin, gristles, and fat. Cut it very small, and beat it in a mortar till it is very fine. Then shred six pounds of beef-suet very fine, and free from all skin. Take a good deal of sage, wash it very clean, pick oif the leaves, and shred it fine. Spread your meat on a clean dresser or table, and then shake the sage all over it, to the quantity of about three large spoonsful. Shred the thin rind of a middling lemon very fine, and throw them over the meat, and also as many sweet herbs as, when shred fine, will fill a large spoon. Grate over it two nutmegs, and put to it two tea-spoonsful of pep- per, and a large spoonful of salt. Then throw over it the suet, and mix all well together. Put it down close in a pot, and when you use it, roll it up with as much egg as will make it roll smooth. Make them of the size of a sausage, and fry them in butter,, or good drip- ping. Be careful the butter is hot before you put them in, and keep rolling them about while they are doing. When they are thoroughly hot, and of a fine light brown, take them out, put them into a dish, and serve them up. Veal mixed with pork, and done in this man- ner, eats exceeding fine. Oxford Sausages. Take a pound of young pork, fat and lean, with- out skin or gristle, a pound of lean veal, and a pound of beef-suet, chopped all fine together ; put in half a pound of grated bread, half the peel of a lemon shred fine, a nutmeg grated, six sage-leaves washed and chopped very fine, a tea-spoonful of pepper and two of salt, some thyme, savory, and marjorum, shred fine Mix all well together, and put it close down in a pan till you use it. Roll it out the size of a common sau- sage, and fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, or broil them over a clear fire, and send them to table as hot as possil)io. 3V^ CHAPTER XXV METHODS OF KEEPING VEGETABLES, FRUITS, <^*C To keep Green Peas till Christmas. PEAS for this purpose must be chosen very finO; young and fresh gathered. Shell them, and put them into boiling water with some salt in it. When they have boiled five or six minutes, throw them into a cullender to drain. Then lay a cloth four or live times double on a table, and spread them on it. Dry them well, and having your bottles ready, fill them and cover them with mutton-fat fried. Cork them as close as possible, tie a bladder over them, and set them in a cool place. When you use them, boil the water, put in a little salt, some sugar, and a piece of butter. As soon as they are enough, throw them into a sieve to drain ; then put them into a saucepan with a good piece of butter, keep shaking it roinid till the butter is all melted, then turn them into a dish, and send them to table. To keep Gooseberries. Put an ounce of roche-alum, beat very fine, into a large pan of boiling hard water. When you have piclied your gooseberries, put a few of them into .the bottom of a hair sieve, and hold them in the boiling water till they turn white. Then take out the sieve, and spread the gooseberries between two clean cloths. Put more gooseberries in your sieve, and then repeat it till they are done. Put the water into a glazed pot till next day; then put your gooseberries into wide- mouthed bottles, pick out all the cracked and broken ones, pour the water clear out of the pot, and fill your bottles with it. Then cork them loosely, and let them stand a fortnight. If they rise to the corks, draw them out, and let them stand two or three days uncorked. Then cork them quite close, and they will keep good several months. Another method of keeping gooseberries is this : Pick them as large and drv as yo!j can, and having 310 FRUITS, 4'^- taken care that your bottles are clean and dry, fill and cork them. Set them in a kettle of water up to the neck, and let the water boil very slowly till you find tlie gooseberries are coddled ; tlieii take them out, and put in the rest of the bottles till all are done. Have ready some rosin melted in a pipkin, and dip the necks of the bottles into it, which will prevent all air from getting in at the cork. Keep them in a cool dry place, and when you use them they will bake as red as a cherry, and have their natural flavour. To keep Mushrooms. Take large buttons, wash them in the same man- ner as for stewing, and lay them on sieves with the stalks upwards. Tlu'ow over them some salt, to draw out the water. When they are properly drained, put them into a pot, and set them in a cool oven for an hour. Then take them out carefulljs and lay them to cool and drain. Boil the licpior that comes out of them with a blade or two of mace, and boil it half away. Put your mushrooms into a clean jar well dried, and when the liquor is cold, pour it into the jar, and cover your mushrooms with it. Then pour over them ren- dered suet; tie a bladder over the jar, and set them in a dry closet, where they will keep very well the greater part of the winter. When you use them, take them out of the liquor, pour over them boiling milk, and let them stand an hour. Then stew them in the juilk a quarter of an hour, thicken them with flour, and A large quantity of butter ; but be careful you do not oil it. Then beat the yolks of two eg^s in a little cream, and put it into the stew; but do not let it boil after you have put in the eggs. Lay unroasted sippets round the inside of the dish, then serve them up, and they will eat nearly as good as when fresh gathered. If they do not taste strong enough, put in a little of the liquor. This is a very useful liquor, as it will give a strong flavour of fresh mushrooms to all made dishes. To Bottle Damsons. Take your damsons be{()re they are too ripe, pul POSSETS, i^C. 3} I them into wide-mouthed bottles, and cork them down tight ; then put them hito a moderate oven, and aboul three hours will do them. You must be careful youi oven is not too hot, or it will make your fruit fly. All kinds of fruits that are bottled may be done in the same way, and if well done will keep two years. After they are done they must be put away, with the mouth dow^n- ward, in a cool place, to keep them from fermenting. *^* Remember, that every species of the vegetable tribe designed for future use, at times out of the natural season, must be kept in dry places, as damps will not only cover them with mould, but will also deprive them of their fine flavour. It must likewise be observed, that while you endeavour to avoid putting them into damp places, you do not place them where they may get wann, which will be equally detrimental ; so that a proper attention must be paid to the observance of a ju- dicious medium. When ycfh boil any dried vegetables, always allow them plenty of water. CHAPTER XXVI. POSSETS, GRUELS, c^c. Sack Possets. BEAT up the yolks and whites of fifteen eggs, and then strain them ; then put three quarters of a pound of white sugar into a pint of canary, and mix it with your eggs in a basin ; set it over a chafing-dish of coals, and keep continually stirring it till it is scalding hot. In the mean time grate some nutmeg in a quart of milk, and boil it, and then pour it into your eggs, and wine while they are scalding hot. As you pour it hold your hand very high, and let another person keep stirring it all the time. Then take it ofi", set it before the fire half an hour, and serve it up. Another method of making sack-posset is this : take four Naples biscuits, and crumble them into a quart of new milk when it boils. Just give it a boil, take it n{f, grate in some nutmpi;s, and sweeten it to your 312 possRi s, i!^c. palate. Then pour in half a pint of sack, keep stir- ring it all tiie time, put it into your basin, and send it to table. Wine Posset. 15oiL tlie crumb of a penny loaf in a quart of milk till it is soft, then take it oil the hre, and grate in half a iHitmeg. Put in sugar to your taste, then pour it into a china bowl, and put in by degrees a pint of Lisbon wine. Serve it up with toasted bread upon a plate. Ale Posset. Take a small piece of white bread, put it into a pint of milk, and set it over the fire. Then put some nutmeg and sugar into a pint of ale, warm it, and w hen your milk boils, pom* it upon the ale. Let it stand a few minutes to clear, and it w ill be fit for use Orange Posset. Take the crumb of a penny loaf gi-ated fine, and put it into a pint of water, with half the peel of a Seville orange grated, or sugar rubbed upon it to take out the essence. Boil all together till it looks thick and clear. Then take a pint of mountain wine, the juice of half a Seville orange, three ounces of sweet almonds, and one of bitter, beat fine, with a little French bran- dy, and sugar to your taste. Mix all well togetlier, put it into your posset, and serve it up. Lemon pos- set must be made in the same manner. White Caudle. Take two quarts of water, and mix it with four spoonsful of oatmeal, a blade or two of mace, and a piece of lemon-peel. Let it boil, and keep stirring it often. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, and be care- ful not to let it boil over, then strain it through a coarse sieve. Wiien you use it sweeten it to your taste, grate in a little nutmeg, and what wine you think proper; and if it is not for a sick person, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Brown Caudle. Miic your gruel as for the white caudle, and wher GRUELS, 4'C, 313 you liave strained it, add a quart of ale that is not bitter. Boil it, then sweeten it to your palate, and add half a pint of wliitc wine or brandy. When you do not put in \vhite wine or brandy, let it be half ale. IF/iite Wine Whey. Put in a large basin half a pint of skimmed milk and half a pint of wine. When it has stood a few mi- nutes, pour in a pint of boiling water. liet it stand a little, and the curd will gather in a lump, and settle at the bottom. Then pour your whey into a china bowl, and put in a lump of sugar, a sprig of balm, or a slice of lemon. Water Gruel. Put a large spoonful of oatmeal into a pint of water, aiid stir it well together, and let it boil three or four times, stirring it often ; but be careful it does not boil over. Then strain it through a sieve, salt it to your palate, and put in a good piece of butter. Stir it about with a spoon till the butter is all melted, and it will be fme and smooth. Barley Gruel. Put a quarter of a pound of pearl-barley, and a stick of cinnamon, into two quarts of water, and let it boil till it is reduced to one quart. Then strain it through a sieve, add a pint of red wine, and sweeten it to your taste. Orgeat Paste. Take three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, blanch and pound them in your mortar, wetting them fi-om time to time with orange-flower water that they may not oil. When they are pounded very hne, add three quarters of a pound of fine pounded sugar to it, and mix the whole into a stiff paste, and then put it into your pots for use. This paste will keep sLx months. When you wish to use it, you may take a piece about the size of an e2;g and mix it witiihalfa pint of water, and squeeze 't through a nno n ipkin. .•?14 CHAPTER XXVII MADE fVIJVES, <^c. A STRICT and attentive management in the making of these articles is the grand means by whicii tiiey are to be broiiglit to a proper state of perfection ; and with- out which, labour, expense, and disrepute, will be the final, and disagrecal)le consequences. To prevent the last, and promote the first, let a due observance be paid to the following general rules : do not let such wines as require to be made with boiling water stand too long after drawn, before you get them cold, and be careful to put in your barm in due time, othervrise it will fret after being put into the cask, and. can never be brought to that state of fineness it ought to be. Neither must you let it work too long in the butt, as it will be apt to take off the sweetness and flavour ol the fruit or flow ers from which it is made. Let your vesvsels be thoroughly clean and dry, and before you put in the wine, give them a rince with a little brandy. When the W' ine has done fermenting, bung it up close, and after being properly settled, it will draw to youi W'ishes. Raisin JVine. Put tv,o hundred weight of raisins, ^^ith all theii stalks into a large hogsiiead, and fill it up with water. Let them steep a fortnight, stirring them every day. Then pour off tiie liquor, and ]>ress the raisins. Put both liquors together into a nice clean vessel that will just hold it, for remember, it must be quite full* Let it stand till it is done hissing, or making the least noise, then stop it close, and let it stand six months. Then peg it, and if quite clear, rack it off into another ves- sel. Stop it again close, and let it stand three montlis longer. Then bottle it, and when wanted, rack it ofT into a decanter. An excellent Wine, from Smyrna Currants. To every gallon of water ])ut two pounds and three ij-iai'lvrs of brown sugar, \\\\i\ (^:;e po^md and a h.alf of MADE WJNES. 3]b Smyrna currants. Boil the sugar and water for half an hour, and fine it with whites of eggs; when near cold, pnt some fresh barm to it, and let it stand in the tub seven or eight days, stirring it once a day. Cut your curraiits a httle with a chopping knife, then put them into a barrel, and pour the wine on them. Have ready some isinglass dissolved in a little of the wine, and put it into the barrels, stirring it every day for six or eight weeks, then close it up, and in about nine months it will be ready to bottle. Currant Wine. Gather your fruit on a fine dry day, and when they are quite ripe. Strip them from the stalks, put them into a large pan, and bruise them with a wooden pestle. Let them lay twenty-four hours to ferment, then run the liquor through a hair sieve, but do not let your hands touch it. To every gallon of liquor put two pounds and ahalf of white sugar, stir it well together, and put it into your vessel. To ev^ery six gallons put in a quart of brandy, and let it stand six weeks. If it is then fine, bottle it ; but if not, draw it off as clear as you can into another vessel, or large bottles, and in a fortnight put it into sjnaller bottles, cork them close, and set it by for use. Gooseberry JVine. Gather your gooseberries in dry weather, and at 'vhe time when they are about half ripe. Gather about a i)eck in quantity, and bruise them well in a clean tub. Then take a horse-hair cloth, and press them as much as possible without breaking the seeds. When you have squeezed out all the juice, put to every gallon three pounds of fine dry pounded sugar. Stir it all together till the sugar is dissolved, and then put it into a vessel or cask, w hich must be quit(; filled. If the quantity is ten or twelve gallons, let it stand a fortnight, but, if it is a twenty gallon cask, it must stand three weeks. Set it in a cool place; then draw it oif from the lees, and po-ir In t\\c clear liquor again. If it is a S\6 MADE WINES. ten gallon cask, let it stand three months ; if a twenty gallon cask, four mouths; then bottle it off, and it ^^iU draw clear and fine. Mulbcmj Wine'. Gather your mulberries when they are in th^ stat(i of changing from red to black, and at that time of the day when they are dry from tlie dew having been taken oil' by the heat of the sun. Spread them loose on a cloth, or a clean floor, and let tliem lay twenty- four hours. Then put them into a convenient vesse. for the purpose, squeeze out all the juice, and drain it from the seeds. Boil up a gallon of water to each gallon of juice you get out of them ; then skim the water well, and add a little cinnamon .slightly bruised. Put to each gallon six ounces of white sugar-candy finely beaten. Skim and strain the water, when it has been taked off, and is settled ; and put to it some more juice of tlie mulberries. To every gallon of the liquor, add a pint of w hite or rhenish w'ine. Let it stand in a cask to purge or settle for five or six days, and then draw oft" the wine, and keep it in a cool place. Raspberry Wine. Pick some of the finest raspbemes you can get, bruise them, and strain them through a flannel baginto a stone jar. To eacli quart of juice put a pound of double-refined sugar, then stir it well together, and cover it close. Let it stand three days, and then pour it oft' clear. To a quart of juice put two pints of wdiite wine, and then bottle it oft'. In the course of a week it will be fit for use. Damsom Wine. After you have gathered your damsons, Avhich must be on a dry day, weigh tliem and then bruise them. Put them into a stein that has a tap in it, and to every eiglit jiounds of fruit put a gahon of AA'ater. Boil the ^^ atrr, skim it, and ])our it scalding hot on your fruit. Wiien it has stood t^vo days draw it ofl, MADE WINES. 317 And put it into a vessel, and to every gallon of .iqnor put two pounds and a half of line sugar. Fill up the vessel and stop it close, and the longer it stands the better. When yon draw it olf, put a lump of sugar into every bottle. Orangp. Wine. Boil six gallons of spring water three quarters ol an hour, w^ith twelve pounds of the best pow^der sugar, and the whites of eight or ten eggs well beaten. When it is cold, put it in six spoonsful of } eagt. Take the juice of twelv^e lemons, which, being pared, must stand with about two pounds of white sugar in a tankard, and in the morning .skim off the top, and put it in the water. Then add the juice and rinds of fifty oranges, but not the white parts of the rinds, and then let them work all together for forty- eight hours. Then add two quarts of Rhenish or Vv'hite wine, and put it into your vessel. Orange ^vine may be made with raisins, in which case proceed thus : take thirty pounds of new Malaga raisins picked clean, chop them small, and take twenty large Seville oranges, ten of which you must prepare " as thin as for preserving. Boil about eight gallons of soft w^ater till one third of it is wasted, and let it cool a little. Then put five gallons of it hot upon your raisins and orange-peel, stir it well together, cover it up, and when it is cold, let it stand five days, stirring it once or twice a day. Then pass it through a hair sieve, and with a spoon press it as dry as you can Put it in a rundlet fit for use, and put to it the rinds of the other ten oranges, cut as thin as the first. Then make a syrup of the juice of twenty oranges, with a pound of white sngar, which nuist be done the day before you tun the wine. Stir it well together, and stop it close. Let it stand two months to clear, and then bottle it off. This wine gi-eatly improves by time, and will drink mucli better at the end of the third year (I' an the first. Lemon Wine. Pare off the rinds of six large lemons, cut them, 318 MADE WINES. and squeeze out the juice. Steep the rinds in the juice, and put to it a quart of brandy. Lot it stand three days in an earthen pot close stopped ; then squeeze six more, and mix it witli two quarts of spring water, and as much suga^' as will sweeten the whole. Boil the water, lemons, and sugar together, and let it stand till it is cool. Then add a quart of w hite wine, mix them together, and run it through a flannel bag into some vessel. Let it stand three months, and then bottle it off. Cork your bottle** well, keep it cool, and it will be fit to drink in a month or six weeks. Lemon wine may be made to drink like citron wa- ter, the method of which is as follows : pare fine a dozen of lemons very thin, put the peels into five quarts of French brandy, and let them stand fourteen days. Then make the juice into a syrup Avith three pounds of single-refined sugar, and when the peels are ready, boil fifteen gallons of water with forty pounds of single- refined sugar for half an hour. Then put it into a tub, and when cool, add to it one spoonful of barm, and let it work two days. Then turn it, and put in the bran- dy, peels, and syrup. Stir them altogether, and close up your cask. Let it stand three months, then bottle it, and it will be as pale and fine as any citron water. Grape Wine. Put a gallon of w^ater to a gallon of grapes. Bruise the gi'apes w ell, let them stand a week without stir- ring, and then draw oft' the liquor. Put to a gallon of the wine three pounds of sugar, and then put it into a vessel, but do not fasten it up with your bung till it has done hissing. Let it stand two months, and it will draw clear and fine. If you think proper you may then bottle it, but remember your cork is quite close, and keep it in a good dry cellar. Cherry Wine. Gather your cherries when they are quite ripe, pull them from the stalks, and press them through a hair-sieve. To every gallon of liquor put two pounds MADE WINE*-" 319 of lump sugar finely beaten, then stir it together, and put it into a vessel that will just contain it. When it has done working, and ceases to make any noise, stop it very close for three montlis, and then bottle it off for use. Elder Wine. Pick your elder-berries when they are full ripe, put them into a stone jar, and set them in the oven, or in a kettle of boiling water (ill tlie jar is hot through ; then take them out, and strain them through a coarse sieve, wringing the berries, and put the juice into a clean ket- tle. To every quart of juice, put a pound of fine Lis- bon sugar, let it boil, and skim it well. When it is clear and fine, pour it into a cask. To every ten gal- lons of wine, add an ounce of isinglass dissolved in cider, and six whole eggs. Close it up, let it stand six months, and then bottle it. Apricot Wine. Put three pounds of sugar into tiiree quarts of wa ter, let tliem boil together, and skim it well. Then put in six fjounds of apricots j)ared and stoned, ;md let them boil till they are tender. Take out the apricots, and when the liquor is cold, bottle it up For present iLse the apricots will make good marmaiade. Quince Wine. Gather twenty large quinces, when they are dry and full ripe. Wipe them clean with a coarse cloth, and grate them with a large grate or rasp as near the cores as you can; but do not touch the cores. Boil a g;dlon of spring-water, throw in your quinces, and let them boil softly about a quarter of an hour. Then strain them well into an earthen pan on two pounds of double-refined sugar. Pare the peel of two large lemons, throw them in, and srpieeze the juice through a sieve. Stir it about till it is very cold, and then toast a thin slice of bread very brown, rub a little yeast on it, and let the whole stand close covered twenty- Ciur hours. Then take out the to;ist and lemon, ])ut 27* ^'20 MADE WINES. the wine i i ii cask, keep it three months, and t.lien bot- tle it. If you make a twenty gallon cask, let it stana six months before you bottle it; and remember, when Vou strain voiu' quinces, to wring them hard in a coarse cloth. Blackbcrrij Wine. Let your berries be full ripe when you gatlier them for this purpose. Put them into a large vessel either of wood or stone, with a tap \\\ it, and pour upon them as much boiling water as \vill cover them. As soon as the heat w ill permit you to put your hand into the ves- sel, bruise them Avell till all the berries are broken. Then let them stand covered till the berries begin to rise tow-ards tlie top, which they will do in three or four days. Then draw off the clear into another ves- sel, and add to every ten quarts of this liquor one pound of sugar. Stir it w ell in, and let it istand to work a week or ten days in another vessel like the first. Then draw" it off at the cork through a jelly-bag into a large vessel. Take four ounces of isinglass, and lay it to steep twelve hours in a pint of white wine. The next morning boil it upon a slow fire till it is all dis- solved. Then take a gallon of your blackberry juice, put in the dissolved isinglass, give them a boil together, and pour all into the vessel. Let it stand a few days to purge and settle, then draw it off, and keep it in a cool place. Turnip Wine. Take what quantity of turnips you think proper, pare and slice them, put them into a cider-press, and squeeze out all the juice. To every gallon of juice put three pounds of lump sugar, put both into a vessel just large enough to hold them, and add to every gallon of juice half a pint of brandy. Lay something over the bung for a week; and when you are sure it has done working, bung it down close. Let it stand three months, then draw" itoff into another vessel, and when it is fine, put it into bottles. MADE WINES ."^21 Birch Wine. This wine must be made at that time of the year when tlie liquor from the birch-trees can be best pro- cured. This is in the beginning of March, when the sap is rising, and before the leaves shoot out; for when the sap is coming forward, and the leaves appear, the juice, by being long digested in the bark, grows thick and coloured, which before was thin and clear. The method of procuring the juice is, by boring holes in the body of the tree and putting fossets, which are usual- ly made of the branches of elder, the pith being taken out. You may, w ithout hurting the tree, if it is large, tap it in several places, four or five at a time, and by that means save, from a good many trees, several gal- lons every day. If you do not get enough in one day, the bottles in which it drops must be corked close, and rosined or waxed ; however, make use of it as soon as you can. Take the sap, and boil it as long as any scum will rise, skimming it all the time. To every gallon of liquor put four pounds of good sugar and the thin peel of a lemon. Then boil it half an hour, and keep skimming it well. Pour it into a clean tub, and when it is almost cold, set it to work with yeast spread upon a tiast. Let it stand five or six days, stirring it often. Then take a cask just large enough to hold all the liquor, fire a large match dipped in brimstone, and throw it into the cask, stop it close till the match is extinguished, then turn your wine, and lay the bung on lightly till you find it has done working. Stop it close, and, after three months, bottle it off. Rose Wine. Put into a well-glazed earthen vessel three gallons of rose-water drawn with a cold still. Put into it a sufficient quantity of rose-leaves, cover it close, and set it for an hour in a kettle or copper of hot water, to to take out the whole strength and flavour of the roses. When it is cold, press the rose-leaves hard into the liquor, and steep fresh ones on it, repeating it till the liquor has got the full strenn^th of the roses. To every No. 14. 2 S 322 MADE WINES. gallon ot liquor put three pounds of loaf sugar, and stli it well that it may melt and disperse in every part. Then put it into a cask, or other convenient vessel, tc ferment, and throw into it a piece of bread toasted hard and covered with yeast. Let it stand a month, when it will be ripe, and have all the line fla\our and scent of the roses. If you add some wine and spices, it will be a considerable improvement. By the same mode of infusion, wines may be made from any other flowers that have an odoriferous scent, and grateful flavour. •Ginger Wine. Put seven pounds of Lisbon sugar into four gallons of spring water, boil them a quarter of an hour, and keep skimming it all the time. When the liquor is cold, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, and then boil the peels with t\YO ounces of ginger, in three pints of water, for an hour. When it is cold, put it all toge- ther into a barrel, with two spoonsful of yeast, a quar- ter of an ounce of isinglass beat very thin, and two pounds of jar raisins. Then close it up, let it stand seven weeks, and then bottle it off. Balm Wine. Boil forty pounds of sugar in nine gallons of water for two hours, skim it well, and put it into a tub to cool. Take two pounds and a half of the tops of balm, bruise them, and put them into a barrel with a little new yeast, and when the liquor is cold, pour it on the balm. Mix it well together, and let it stand twenty-four hours, stirring it frequently during the time. Then close it up, and let it stand six weeks, at the expira- tion of which rack it off, and put a lump of sugar into every bottle. Cork it well, and it will be better the second year than the first. Mead Wine. There are different kinds of this wine; but those generally made are two, namely, sack-mead and cow sUp-mead. Sack mead is made thus: to every gallor MADE WINES. 323 of water put four pounds of lioney, and boil it three quarters of an hour, taking care properly to skim it To each gallon add half an ounce of hops, then boh it half an hour, and let it stand till the next day. Then put it into your cask ; and to thirteen gallons of the liquor add a quart of brandy or sack. Let it be tightly closed till the fermentation is over, and then stop it up very close. I( you make as much as fills a large cask, you must not bottle it off till it has stood a year. To make cowslip-mead you nmst proceed thus : put thirty pounds of honey into fifteen gallons of water, and boil it till one gallon is wasted; skim it, take il oft the lire, and have ready sixteen lemons cut in half. Take a gallon of the liquor, and put it to the lemons. Pour the rest of the liquor into a tub, with seven pecks of cowslips, and let them stand all night" then put in the liquor with the lemons, eight spoonsful of new yeast, and a handful of sweet-brier; stir all well together, and let it work three or four days. Then strain it, pour it into your cask, le-t it stand six months, and then bottle it off for use. Raspberry Brandy. Mix a pint of water with two quarts of brandy, and put them into a pitcher large enough to hold them, with four pints of raspberries. Put in half a pound of loaf-sugar, and let it remain for a week close covered. Then take a piece of flannel, with a piece of Holland over it, and let it run through by degrees. In about a week it will be perfectly fine, when you may racik it off; but be careful the bottles are well corked. Orange Brandy. Put into three quarts of brandy the chips of eigh- teen Seville oranges, and let them steep a fortnight in a stone bottle close stopped. Boil two quarts of spring water, with a pound and a half of the finest sugar, near an hour very gently. Clarify the water and su gar with the white of an egg, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and boil it near half away. When it is cold strain the brandy into the syr q). 324 CORDIAL WATERS. Lemon Brandy. Mix five quarts of water with one gallon of brandy; then take two d jzcn of" lemons, two pounds of the best sugar, and tliree pints of milk Pare the lemons very thin, and lay the peel to steep in the brandy twelve hours. Squeeze the lemons upon the sugar, then put the water to it, and mix all the ingredients together. Let it stand twenty-four hours, and then strain it. Black Cherry Brandy. Stone eight pounds of black cherrie:s, and put on them a gallon of the best brandy. Bruise the stones in a mortar, and then put them into your brandy. Co- ver them up close, and let them stand a month or six weeks. Then pour it clear from the sediments, and bottle it. Morello cherries managed in this manner, make a fine rich cordial. CHAPTER XXVIII. CORDIAL WATERS. IN the process of making these articles, several things are necessary to be observed, in order to bring them to their proper state of perfection. If your stiU is an alembic, yon miisl fill the top with cold watci when you set it on, and close the bottom with a little stiff paste made of flour and water. If you use a hot still, when yon put on the top, dip a cloth in white lead and oil, and lay it close over the ends, and a coarse cloth well soaked in water on the top ; and when it becomes dry from the heat of the fire, wet it and lay it on again. It will require but little fire, but what there is must bo as clear as possiljle. All simple waters must stand two or three days before they are bottled oft', that the fiery taste which they will naturally receive from the still may be fully extracted. Rose Water. Gather your roses when they are dry and ni!i blown, pick oft' the leaves, and to every peck put s CORDIAL WATERS. 326 quart of water. Then put them into a cold still, and make a slow lire under it ; tor the more gradually it is distilled, the better it will be. Then bottle it, and in two or three days you may coi'k it up for use. Lavender Water. To every pound of lavender-neps put a quart of water. Put them into a cold stiil, and make a slow fire under it. Dis>til it off very slowly, and put it into a pot till you have distilled all your water. Then clean your still well out, put your lavender-water into it, and distil it off as slowly as before. Then put it into bottles, cork them quite close, and set them by for use. Peppermint Water. Gather your peppermint when it is full grown, and before it seeds. Cut it into short lengths, put it into your still, and cover it with water. Make a good fire under it, and when it is near boiling, and the still begins to drop, if you find your fire too hot, draw a little away, that the liquor may not boil over. The slower your still drops, the clearer and stronger will be the water ; but at the same time you must not let it get too weak. The next morning bottle it off, and after it has stood two or three days, to take oft' the fiery taste of the still, cork it well, and it will preserve its strength a considerable time. Su7]feit Water. Take scurvy-grass, brook-lime, water-cresses, Ro- man wormwood, rue, mint, balm, sage, and chives, of each one handful ; poppies, if fresh, half a peck ; but if they are dry, only half that quantity; cochineal and saffron, six-penny worth of each : aniseeds, carraway- eeds, coriander-seeds, and cardamum seeds, of each •> ounce ; two ounces of scraped liquorice, a pound <^split figs, the same quantity of raisins of the sun ^^d, an ounce of juniper-berries bruised, an ounce ^^ uten nutmeg, an ounce of mace bruised, and the >anv,f svveet fennel seeds also bruised ; a few^ flowers 826 BREWING. of rosemary, marigold, and sage. Put all these mto a large stone jar, and pour on them three gallons of French brandy. Co\ er it close, and let it stand near the hre for three weeks. Stir it three times a week, and at the expiration of that time strain it off. Bottle yoin* licpior, and pom- on the ingredients a quart more of Frencli brandy. Let it stand a week, stirring it once a day; then distil it in a cold still, and you will have a fine \vhite surfeit water. Bottle it close, and it will retain its virtues a considerable time. CHAPTER XXIX. THE ART OF BREWIJVG. TO complete the Housekeeper's knowledge in all domestic concerns, it is essentially necessary she should be properly acquainted with the method of brewing malt-liquors, more especially should she be the princi- pal provider for a numerous family. This business will therefore form the subject of the present chapter, and the mode to be pursued throughout the whole pro- cess we shall endeavour to lay down in so clear, con- cise, and intelligent a manner, as may easily guide the unacquainted, and perhaps, in some degree, be mate- rially beneficial to those already informed. SECT. I. The Principles on which a Copper should be built for Brewing. There are several things that demand peculiar no tice previous to the actual process of brewing malt/ liquors ; and those are with respect to the various im^ plements necessary to effect and facilitate a proper execution of so important a business. The first thing that presents itself among these is the copper, the proper position of which, and manner of its beina set are matters that require very attentive BREWING. 327 consideration. Tlie most beneficial mode to l)e adopt- ed is this : divide the heat of the fire by a stop ; and if the door and draiiglit be in a direct hne, the stop must be erected from tlie middle of each outline of the grat- ing, and parallel with the centre sides of the copper; by wiiich method the middle of the fire will be direct- ly under the bottom of the copper. The stop is com- posed of a thin wall in the centre of the right and left sides of the copper, which is to ascend lialf the height of it. On the top must be left a cavity, from four to six inches, for a draught for that half part of tlie fire which is next the door of the copper ; and then the building must close all round to the finishing at the top. By this method the heat will communicate from the out- ward part of the fire round the outward half of yom* copper, through the cavity, as well the farthest part of the flue, which also contracts a conjunction of the whole, and causes the flame to glide gently and equally round the bottom of the copper. The advantages derived from your copper being set in this manner are very great, nor is the saving of fuel the least object of consideration among them. It has a material pre-eminence over wheel-draughts ; for Avith them, if there is not particular attendance giv en to the hops, by stirring them down, they are apt to stick to the sides, and scorch, which will deprive the liquor of having its sweet and proper flavour. By the before mentioned metliod the copper will last many years more than it will by the wheel-draught; for that draws with so much violence, that should your liquor be beneath tlie communication of the fire, your copper will thereby be liable to injury ; whereas by the other method, you may boil half a copper full without fear v>f any bad consequence. SECT. II. On the proper Manao;ement of Vessels for Brewings and the necessity of keeping them in due Order. On the oreccding dav that you intend to brow 528 BREWING. make a strict cxaniiiiatioii into all your vessels, that they are thoroughly clean, and in a proj)er state for use. They fihoiild never be converted to any other purpose, except for the use of makin<^ ^vi^cs; and, even in that case, after done with, should be properly cleansed, and kept in a place free from dirt. Let your cask be well cleaned with boiling Avater ; and if the bung-hole is large enough, scrub them ^vell with a small birch- broom, or brush. If you find them bad, and a very musty scent comes from ihem, take out the heads, and let them be scrubbed clean with a hand brush, sand, and fullers'- earth. When you have done this, put on the head again, and scald it well, then throw in a piece of unslacked lime, and stop the bung close. When they have stood some time, rince them well with cold water, and they will be properly prepared for use. The greatest attention must likewise be paid to the care of your coolers, which are implements of very ma- terial consequence ; for, if they are not properly kep< in order, your liquor, from a secret and unaccoimtabk cause, abstracts a nauseousness that will entirely de- stroy it. This often proceeds from wet having been infused in the wood, as it is sometimes apt to lodge in the crevices of old coolers, and even infect them to such a degree, that it will not depart, though many washings and scaldings are applied. One cause incidental to this evil is, suffering women to wash in a brewhouse, which ought by no means to be permitted, where any other convenience can be had ; for nothing can be more hurtful than the remnants of dirty soap suds left in vessels calculated only for the pm-pose of brewing. When you prepare the coolers, be careful never to let the water stand too long in them, as it will soak in, and soon turn putrid, when the stench will enter the wood, and render them almost incurable. To prevent such consequences, as well as to answer good purposes, it has been recommended, where fixed brewhouses are intended, that all coolers should be leaded. It must be admitted, in the first ])lace, tiiat such are ex- ceeding clrai^ly: :-M;d, sPconiDv', !}<:>: it expedites the BREWING. 329 cooling part of your liquor worts, which is very i .tees sary to forward it for working, as well as afterwards for cooling tlie whole ; for evaporation causes consi- derably more v> istc than proper boiling. It is alsc indispensably necessary that yom* coolers be well scour- ed with cold water tsvo or three times, cold water being more proper tlian hot. to eil'ect a perfect cleansing, especially if they are in a bad condition, from undis- covered filth that may he in tiie crevices. The appli- cation of warm water will drive the infection farther; so that if your li([uor he let into the coolers, and any remain in the crevices, the heat will collect the foulness, and render the whole both disagreeable and unwhole- some. The mash-tub in particular must be kept perfectly clean ; nor must the grains be left in the tub any long- er than the day after brewing, lest it should sonr the tub ; for if there is a sour scent in the brewhouse before your beer is tunned, it will be apt to infect your liquor and worts. From sucli inconveniences, the necessity of cleanliness in utensils for brewing is sufficiently obvious. SECT. II!. Directions for the Mcniagement of the Mash-tub, Pcnstaff, <^.c. To render your mash-tub more perl'ect and lasting, you should have a circvilar piece of brass or copper, to inlay and line the ^vhole where the penstatf enters, to h^t the wort rim off into the underback. Tlie ponstafT should be also strongly ferrelled with the same metal, and bothw^ell andtaperly finished, so that you can phice it properly. By this method you have it rim from the fineness of a thread to t!»e fulness of an inclitnbe, ^vc. first dressing your uuisk-basket with straw, fern, 01 small bushy furze without stem.s, six or eight inches in from the bottom of your basket, and set quite per- pendicularly over ilie whole, v.ith the penstaff through N(i. II. 2 T 350 BREWING. the centre of the basket, and the middle of the fuize or li'rn, .and fastened to the liolc of the tub. To steady it {iiopcrly, you must have a piece of iron let into a staple fastened to tiie tub, at the nearest part opposite the basket, and to reach nearly to it; and from that plccv aiKother added on a jointed swivel, or any otlier contrivance, so as to be at liberty to let round the bas- ket lilie a dogs collar, and to enter into the staple form- ed in the same to pin it fast, and by adding a half cir- cular turn into the collar, in which you have room to drive in a wedge, ^^ hich Avill keep it safe down to the bottom, where there can be no danger of its being dis- turbed by stirring the mash, which will otherwise sometimes be the. case. When you let go, you will raise the penstati' to your own degree of running, and then fasten the staff, by the help of two wedges tight- ened between the stall' and the basket. In process of time the copper work, like everything else, will become defective, and when this is the case, you may repair the imperfection by the following sim- ple method. Work the penstaff in the brass socket with emery and water, or oil, which will make it per- haps more perfect than when new. The like method is sometimes taken even with taps just purchased, in order to prevent their decaying so soon as they other- wise would. A very material addition may be made to tlie con- venience of tiie underbacks, by having a piece of cop- per to line the hole in the bottom, which may be stop- ped with a cloth put singly round a large tap; and when it is fastened down for the ^^ ort to run, it will be necessary to put a large weiglit on the tap, which will prevent its flying up by the heat. When the liquor is pnmped clean out of the back, the cloth round the tap will enable you to take out the tap with case ; and tliere should be a drain below the undcrback to carry off the water, which will enable you to wash it perfect- 'y clean with very little trouble. This drain should be made with a clear descent, so as no damp may re- main under the l)ack. With the conveyance n{ water BREWING. 331 running into your copper, you may be enabled to work that water in a double quantity, your underback being tilled, by the means of letting it in at your leisure, out of your copper, through a shoot to the mash-tub, and so to the underback. Thus you will have a reserve against the time you wish to fill your copper, which may be completed in a few^ minutes, by pumping w hile the under tap is running. Thus much for the princi- pal utensils in brewing, which we again recommend to be always kept in a perfect state of cleanliness. SECT. IV Of the j)roper Time of Breivtng. The inonth of March is generally considered as one of the principal seasons for brewing malt liquor for long keeping; and the reason is, because the air at that time of the year is, in general, temperate, and con- tributes to the good working or fermentation of the Uquor, which principally promotes its preservation and good keeping. Very cold, as well as very hot w eather, prevents the free fermentation or working of liquors; so that, if you brew in very cold weather, unless you use some means to warm the cellar while new drink is working, it will never clear itself in the manner you would wish, and the same misfortune will arise if, in very hot weather, the cellar is not put into a tempe- rate state ; the consequence of all which w ill be, that such drink will be muddy and sour, and, perhaps, in such a degree, as to be past recovery. Such accidents often happen, even in the proper season for brewing, and that owing to the badness of the cellar; for when they are dug in springy grounds, or are subject to damps in the winter, the liquor will chill, and become vapid or flat. When cellars are of this nature, it is advisable to make your brewings in March, rather than in Octo- ber ; for you may keep your cellars temperate in sum- mer, but cannot warm them in winter. Thus your beer brewed in March will liave due time to settle and 28* 332 D11EWI««. adjust itself ])erore the cold can do it any material in- All cellars for keeping liquor should be lormed in such a manner, tliat no external air can get ijilo tliem ; lor the variation of the air abroad, were there fi ee ad- mission of it into the cellars, would cause as many alter- ations in the liquors, and would thereby keep them in so unsettled a state, as to render them mifit lor drink- ing. A constant temperate air digests and softens malt hquors ; so that they taste quite soft and smooth to the palate; but m cellars which are unequal, by letting in heats and colds, the liquor will be apt to sustain very material injury. SECT. V. On the Quality of Water proper for Brewing. It has evidently appeared from repeated experience, that the w'ater best in quality for brewing is river- water, such as is soft, and has received those benefits which naturally arise from the air and sun ; for this easily penetrates into the grain, and extracts its virtues. On the contrary, hard waters astringe and bind the power of the malt, so that its virtue is not freely com- municated to the liquor. There are some who hold it as a maxim, that all water that will mix with soap is fit for brewing, which is the case with most river- water; and it has been frequently experienced, that when the same quantity of malt iias iDeen used to a barrel of river-water, as to a barrel of spring-water, tiie brewing from the former has excelled the other in strength above five degi-ees in twelve months keep. It is likewise to be observed, that the malt was not only the same in (piantity for one barrel as for the other, but was the same in quality, having been all measured from the same heap. The hops were also Ihe same, both in quality and quantity, and the time of boiling equal in each. They were worked in the name manner, and tunned and kept in the same cellar BREWING. 333 This is the most demonstrable and nndeniable ])roof that tlic difference took place from the difference o\ the quality of the water. Various experiments have been tried by gentlemen iii different counties to ascertain the truth of this very essential difference in malt liquors, arising from the quality of the water; but after all, they have been left in a state of perplexity. One circumstance has greatly puzzled the ablest brewers, and that is, when several gentlemen in the same town have employed the same brewer, have had the same malt, the same hops, and the same Avater, and brewed in the same month, and broached their drink at the same time, yet one has had beer exceed- ing fine, strong, and well-tasted, while the others have had hardly any worth drinking. In order to ac- count for this very singular difference, three reasons may be advanced. First, it might arise from the dif- ference of the weather, which might happen at the several brewings in this month, and make an alteration in the working of the liquors. Secondly, the yeast, or barm, might be of different sorts, or in different states, wherewith these liquors were worked; and, thirdly, the cellars might not be equally adapted for the purpose. The goodness of such drink as is brew- ed for keeping, in a great measure depends on the proper form and temperatiu'e of the cellars in which it is placed. Beer i \de at Dorchester, which in general is greatly adi; ved, is, for the most part, brewed with (;halky-watL which is to be had in most parts of that co)mty ; and is the soil is generally chalk, the cellars being dug in 'hat dry soil, contribute to the good keeping of their drink, it being of a close texture, and of a drying quality, so as to dissipate damps; for it has been found by experience that damp cellars are in;urious to the keeping of liquor, as well as iniurions to the casks. Water that is natural\y of a hard (quality may be, uj I'lWiio degree, softened by exposing it to the air and 3^4 BREWING. sun, and putting into it some pieces of soft cluilk to infuse; or, when the water is set on to boil, in order to be poured on the inalt, put into it a quantit)- of bran, which Avill take oil' some part of its sharpness, ajid make it better extract the virtues of the malt. SECT. VI. Of the Quality of the Malt and Hops most proper to be chosen for Brewing, with some necessary Observations on the Management of each. There are two sorts of malt, the general distinc- tion belvveen which is, that the one is high, and the other low dried. The former of these, when brewed, produces a liquor of a deep brown colour; and the other, which is the low dried, will produce a liquor of a pale colour. The first is dried in such a manner as rather to be scorched than dried, and is much less wholesome than the pale mall. It has likewise been found by experience, that brown malt, although it may be well brewed, will sooner turn sharp than the pale ; from whence, among other reasons, the latter is entitled to pre-eminence. We have farther proofs of this distinction from various people, but particularly one : — A gentleman, who has made the Art of Brewing his study for many years, and who gives his opinion and knowledge in words to this purpose, says, brown malt makes the best drink when it is brewed with a course river ^vater, such as that of the Thames about London ; and that likewise being brewed with such water makes very good ale ; but that it will not keep above six months without turning stale, even thougli he allows fourteen bushels lo the hogshead. He adds, that he has tried the higli-drieil malt to brew beer with for 1-veeping and hopped it accordingly; and yet he could never brew it so as to drink soft and meilosv like that brewed with pale malt. There is, he says, an acid quality in the high-dried malt, which occasions those who drink it to BREWING 335 he i^i'eatly troubled with tli.it disorder called the heart burn. What we have here said witli respect to malt, refers only to that made of barley ; for wheat-malt, pea-malt, or high coloured liquor, will keep some yeai's, and driuk soft and smooth, b :i tliey are very subject to have the lla\'Oiir of mum. Malt high dried should not be used in brewing till it has been ground ten days or a fortnight, as it will then yield mucli stronger drink than from the same quantity ground but a short time before it is used. On the conti'ary, pale malt, which has not received much of the hre, must not remain ground above a week before it is used. With respect to hops, the newest are by far the best. They will, indeed, remain very good for two years, but after that they begin to decay, and lose their fla- vour, unless great quantities are kept together, in which case they will keep good much longer than in small quantities. In order the better to preserve them, they should be kept m a very dry place, contrary to the practice of those who deal in them, who making self-interest their first consideration, keep them as damp as they can to increase their weight. It will happen, in the course of time, that hops will grow stale, decayed, and lose their natural bitterness ; but this defect may be removed, by imbagging them, and sprinkhug tliem with aloes and water. From what has been said, it is evident that every one of the particulars mentioned should be judiciously chosen before yo;i commence brewing, ctherwise you will sustain a loss, which .will be aggravated by your labours being in vain. It is likewise to be observ^ed, t'lat the yeast or barm with which you work your lifjuor, must be well considered, for otherwise, even by that alone, a good brewing may be totally destroyed. Sie always particularly careful that yon are provided with every necessary article previous to your com- mencing the business of brewing; for if the wort waits •or any thing that shoulil be immediately at hand, it will be attended wit!i \er7 had consequences. 3JG BREWING. SKCT. VII. The Process, or Practical Part of Breioing. IIavincj, in (he |>rec('iliiir out of the conv«jnient til), in iiK.drrate fi'-Mntitirs, ev.-rv eight or ten minutes Bin: WING. 3'31 till the whole is consumed ; and tlien let olV the re- maining quantity, which ^\i\\ be boiling hot, to the hiiishing process for strong beer. Ha\ iiig proceeded thus far, iill your copper, and let it boil as quick as possible for the second mash, Avhe- ther you intend it either lor ale or small beer. Being thus tar prepared, let oil" the remaining quantity ol' water into your tub, as you did for the strong beer ; but if you would have small beer besides, you must act accordingly, by boiling a proper quantity off in due time, and letting it into the tub as before. With respect to the quantity of malt, twenty-four bushels- will make two hogsheads of as good strong beer as any person would wish to drink, as also two hogs- heads of very decent ale. The strong beer made from this quantity of malt should be kept two or three years before it is tapped, and the ale never less than one. If your masli is only for one hogshead, it should be two hoius in running off; if for two hogsheads, two hours and a lialf; and for any greater quantity, three hours. Particular attention must be paid to the time of steeping your mashes. Strong beer must be allowed three hours ; ale, one hour ; and, if you draw^ small beer after, half an hour. By this mode of proceeding, your boilings will regularly talie place of each other, which will greatly expedite the business. Be careful, in the course of mashing, that it is thoroughly stirred from the bottom, and es})ecially round the muck-basket, for, being well shaken, it will prevent a stagnation of the whole body of the mash. Tins last process de- mands peculiar attention, for w ithout it your beer will certainly be foxed, and, at best, will have a very dis- agreeable flavour. In the preparation for boiling, the greatest care must be taken to put the hops in with the hrst wort, or it will char in a few minutes. As soon as the copper is full enough, make a good lire under it; but be careful in filling it to leave room enough for boiling. Quick boiling is part of the business that requires very par |53^J IJRE^VING. liciil.ir altcntioii. Croat (caution sliould likewise be observed wIrmj tlie liqu«)r begins to swell in waves in tlie copper, if you ha\ e no attendant, be particular attentive to its motions; and being j^rovided with an iron rod of a proper lengtli, crooked at one end, and iajT'T^ed at the otlier, tiien with the crook voii are ena- bled to open the furnace, or copper-door, and with the other ( nd j)ush in tlie damper witl;out stirring fronj yom station; but on the approach of the first swell you will have sijllicier.t time to proportion your fire, ;is care should be taken that it is not too fierce. When the boil is properly got under, you rnay increase the fire so that it may boil briskly. In order to ascertain the proper time the liquor should boil, you may make use of the following ex- pedient : take a clean copper bowl disli, dip out some of the liquor, and when you discover a working, and the hops sinking, then conclude it to be sufficiently boiled. Long and slow boiling is not only pernicious, but it likewise \vastes the liquor; for the slower itboih the lower it drops and singes to your copper; whereas, quick l)oi!ing has a cop.trary effect. K.ssence of malt is extracted by length of boiling, by which you can make it to the thickness of honey or treacle. In some parts of Yorkshire tliey value their liquor for its great strength, by its atl'ecting the brain for two or three days after intoxication. This is the effect of long boiling; for in that county they boil liquor for three hours; and wiuit is still worse, Avhen it sinks in the copper, from tbe waste in boiling, they every now and then add a little fresh >\ort, wliich, without doubt, must produce stjtgjiation, aiul, consequently, impurities. When your licnior is properly boiled, be sure to tra- verse a small quantity of it over all the coolers so as to gvt a j)roj)er (piantity cold immediately to set to work; but if (he airiness of your brewhouse is not suf- ficient to expedit a ([uantity soon, you must traverse a second (p.iantity over the coolers, and then Ivt itinu:) sliallow tubs. Put these iiilo any passage w here there is a Ihorougb. (h-a.fl of :ur. but na here no rjiiu or othe? BREtVING. 339 wet can get to it. Then let off' the quantity of two baring- tubsfuU from the first one, the second and liiird coolers, which may be soon got cold, to be ready lor a speedy working, and then the remaining part that is in your copper may be cpiite let out into tiie lirst cooler. In the mean time mend the lire, and also attend to tlie hops, to make a clear passage through the strainer. Having proceeded thus far, as soon as the liquor is done running, return to your business of pumping; but be careful to remember, that, when you have got four or five pails full, you then return all the hops into the copper for the ale. IJy this time the small quantity of liquor traversed over your coolers being sufficiently cooled, you must proceed to set your liquor to work, tlie manner of doing which is as follows : Take four quarts of barm, and divide half of it into small vessels, such as clean bowls, basins, or mugs, add- ing thereto an equal quantity of wort, which should be almost cold. As soon as it ferments to the top of the vessel, put it into two pails, and when that works to the top, put one into a baring- tub, and the other into another. When you have half a baring-tub full toge- ther, you may put the like quantity to each of them, and then co\er them over, until it comes to a fine white head. This may be perfectly completed in three hours, and then put those two quantities into the working guile. You may now add as much wort as you have got ready ; for, if the w^eather is open, you cannot Avork it too cold. If you brew in cold frosty weatiier, keep the l)rew house warm : but never add hot wort to keep the liquor to a blood heat, that being a bad maxim ; for hot wort put to cold, as well as cold to hot, is so intem])erafe in its nature, that it stagnates the proper operation of the barm. Be particularly careful that your barm be not from foxed beer, that is, beer heated by ill management in its T\o"king; for in that case it is likely to carry v»ith it till' contagion. If your barm be flat, and you cannot procure that which is new, the method of recovering 29 IJ'lO BREWING. ts \vorkin<; i>, by putting to it a pint of warm sweet wort, of vour lirst Icltiiig ulV, the heat to be about lialf the degree of iiiilk-u arm . then give the vessel tlial eontains it a shaive, antl it will soon gatiier strengtJi, and be lit for use. With res])eet to tlie quantity of hops necessary to ])e used, rememl)er that half a j)ound of good hops is sufli- eient for a bushel of inalt. The last, and nio^st sim])le operation in the business of brewing is, that of tunning,, the general methods of doing wb'Vh are, either by having it carried into the cellar on men's shoulders, or conveying it thither by mearis of leathern pipes commonly used for that purpose. Your casks being perfectly clean, sweet and dry, and placed on the stand ready to receive the liquor, first skim oft" the top l)arm, then proceed to fill your casks quite full, and imniediately bung and peg them close. Bore a hole Avith a tap-borer near the summit of the stave at the same distance from the top, as the lower tap-hole is from the bottom, for working through thai upper hole, which is a clean and more eft'ectual method than working it over the cask ; for, by the above me- thod, being so closely confined, it soon sets itself into a convulsive motion of working, and forces itself fine, provided you attend to the filling of yom' casks five or six times a day. This ought to be carefully attended to, for, by too long an omission, it begins to settle, and being afterwards disturbed, it raises a sharp fermen- tation, which produces an incessant workingof a spu- rious froth that may continue for some weeks, and, after all, gi\e your beer a disagreeable taste. One material caution necessary to be kept in remem- brance is this : that however careful you may be in at- tending t") all the preceding particulars, yet if your casks are not kept in good order, still the brewing may be spoiled. New casks are apt to gi\ e liquor a bad laste, if they are not ^^ell scalded and seasoned several days successively before they are used ; and old casks, if they stand any time out of use, are :\r.t to grow musty i uifEhiNo. 341 Having thus gone through the practical part of brew- ing, and brought the liquor from the mash-tub to the cask, ^vc shall now proceed to SFXl. VIII. Containing the proper Management of Malt Liquors, ivith some necessary Observations on the Whole. In order to keep strong beer in a proper state of pre- servation, remember, that when once the vessel is broached, regard must be paid to the time in which it may be expended ; for, if there happens to be a quick draught for it, then it will last good to the very bottom ; but if there is likely to be but a slow draught, then do not draw off" quite half before you bottle it, otherwise it will grow Hat, dead, or sour. In proportion to the quantity of liquor which is en- closed in one cask, so will it be a shorter or longer time in ripening. A vessel, which contains two hogs- heads of beer, will require twice as much time to per- fect itself as one of a hogshead ; and it is found, by ex- perience, that no vessel should be used for strong beer (which is intended to be kept) less than a hogshead, as one of that quantity, if* it is tit to draw in a year, will have body enough to support it for two, three, or four years, provided it has a sufficient strength of malt and hops, which is the case with Dorchester beer. With respect to the management of small beer, the first consideration should be to make it tolerably good in quality, which, in \arious instances, will be found truly economical; for if it is not good, servants, for whom it is principally calculated, will be feeble m summer time, incapable of strong work, and subject to various disorders. Besides, when the beer is bad. a great deal will be thrown away; whereas, on the contrary, good wholesome drink will be valued, and consequently taken care of It is advisable therefore, where there is a sood ccllarinj!^, to brew a stock of '342 BREWING. small beer in March or October, or in l^oth months, to bo kept, if possible, in hogsheads. The beer brewed in r>Farch should not be tapped till October, nor that brewed in October till the March following; having tins regard to the qe.antity, that a family, of the same number of working people, will drink at least one third more in summer than in winter. In order to fine beer, some people, vs ho brew a\ ith high dried barley malt, put a bag, containing about three pints of wheat into every hogshead of liquor, which has had the desired eflect, and made the beer drink soft and mellow. Otliers again, liave put about three pints of wheat-malt into a hogsiiead, which has produced the like effect. But all malt liqnors, however well they may be brewed, may be spoiled by bad cellaring; l3e subject to ferment in the cask, and consequently tnrn thick and sour. When this happens to be the case, the best way of bringing the liquor to itself is, to open the bung- hole of the cask for two or three days ; and if that does not stop the fermentation, then jnit in about two or three pounds of oyster shells, Avashed, dried well in an oven, and then beaten to a fine powder. After you have pnt it in stir it a little, and it Avill soon settle the liquor, make it fine, and take oif the sharp taste. When you find this efi'ected, draw it oft' into another vessel, and put a small bag of wheat, or wheat-malt into it, in proportion to the size of the vessel. It sometimes occurs, that such fermentations Avill happen in liquor from a change of weather, if it is in a bad cel- lar, and will, in a few months, fall fine of itself, and grow mellows In .some country places remote from principal towns, it is a practice to dip whisks into yeast, then beat it well, and hang up the whisks, with the yeast in them, to dry; and if there be no brewing till two months aiterwards, the beating and stirring one of the whisks in new wort aaIU soon raise a working or fermentation. It IS a rule, tb it all licpior should be worked well in BREWING. POULTRY. 34<9 the same on the other side. Clean t!ie gizzard, and take out th: gall in tlie liver; pr.t tiicni into the pinions, and turn the points on the back, if your chickens are to be roasted, cnt off the feet, put a skewer in the first ioint of the pinions, and bring the middle of the leg close, llun the skewer througli the middle of the leg, and thi'ough the body, and do the saaie on the other side*. Put another skewer into the sidesman, put the legs between the apron and the sidesman, and run the skewe through. Having cleaned the liver and giz- zard, put them in the pinions, turn the points on the back, and pull the breast skin over the neck. Geese. Having picked and stubbed your goose clean, cut the feet off at the joint, and the pinion off the first joint. Then cut off the neck almost close to the back ; but leave the skin of the neck long enough to turn over the back. Pull out the throat, and tie a knot at the end. With your middle finger loosen the liver and other matters at the breast end, and cut it open be- tween the vent and the rump. Having done this, draw out all the entrails, excepting the soul. Wipe it out clean with a wet cloth, and beat the breast bone flat with a rolling-pin. Put a skew^er into the wing, and draw the legs close up. Put the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and the same on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg, tuck it close down to the sidesman, run it through, and do the same on the other side. Cutoff the end of the vent, and make a hole large enough for the passage of the rump, as by that means it will much better keep in the seasoning. Ducks are trussed in the same manner, except that the feet must be left on, and tiu'ned close to the legs. Pigeons. When you have picked them, and cut off the neck close to the back, then take out the crop, cut off the vent, and draw out the guts and gizzard, but leavr 350 TRUSSING tlie liver for ;i pigeon has no gall. If tlicy are to be roasted, ciit otV tho toes, cut a slil in one of the legs, and put t! c other through it. Draw the leg tight to Lhe pinion, put a skewer tin'ougli the pinions, legs, juid body, and with tlie handle of the knife break the breast Hat. Clean the gizzard, put it in one of the pinions, and turn the points on the ]>ack. If you intend to make ci pie of tliem, you must cut the feet oil" at the joint, turn the legs, and stick them in the sides close to the pinions. If they are to be stewed or boiled, they must be done in the same manner. Wild Fowl. Having picked them clean, cut off the neck close to the back, and with your middle hnger loosen the liver and guts next tlie breast. Cut off the pinions at the first joint, then cut a slit between the vent and the rump, and draw them clean. Clean them properly with the long feathers on the wing, cut off the nails,- and turn the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer in the pinion, pull the legs close to the breast, and run the skewer through the legs, body, and the other pin- ion. Fh'st cut off the vent, and then put the rump through it. The directions here given are to be fol- low^ed in trussing every kind of w^ild fowl. Fhcrisants and Partridges. Having picked them very clean, cut a sht at the back of the neck, take out ihe crop, and loosen the liver and gut next the breavSt v.ith your fore-hnger, then cut off tlie vent and draw them. Cut off the pinion at the lirst joint, and wipe out the inside with the pinion you have cut oil'. Beat the breast bone Hat witii a roriing-|)in, pui a skewer in the })inion, and brin<; tiu" tnid;]!(' of the legs close. Then run the skewer thfovigh the legs, body, and the other pinion, twist tlie head, and put it on the end of the skewer, with the bill fronting the breast. Put another skewer into the sidesman, and p^;t Ibe loi^s close ori each side the apr-.m, nnd thei' \' \\\ I'li;' s!vt'\'(tT (iiro'Lc'i all. If von ^vould POULTRY. 351 wish to make the pheasant (if it is a cock) have a plea- sing appearauc(3 on the table, leave the beautiful fea- thers on the head, and cover tb.eni gently with paper ro prevent their being injured by the heat of the live You may likewise save the long feathers in the tail to stick in the rump wlien roasted. If tiiey are for boil itii^, |)ut the legs in tlie same m;mncr as in trussing a foul. All kinds of moor game must l)e triissed in the same manner. Woodcocks and Snijjes. As these birds are remarkably tender to pick, espe- cially if they should not happen to be quite fresh, the greatest care must be taken how you handle tiiem ; for even the heat of the hand will sometimes take off the skin, which will totally destroy the beautiful appear- ance of the bird. Having picked them clean, cut the pinions of the first joint, and with the handle of a knife beat the breast-bone Hat. Turn the legs close to the thighs, and tie them together at the joints. 5*ut the thigh close to the pinions, put a skewer into the pin- ions, and run it through the thighs, body, and the other pinion. Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes, and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the bill close to the breast. Remember, that these birds must never be drawn. Larks. When you have picked them properly, cutolFtheii heads, and the pinions of the first joint. Beat tho breast- bone Hat, and turn tlie feet close to the legs, and put one into the other. Draw^ out the gizzard, and run a skeu'er through the middle of the bodies. Tic the skewer fast to the spit when yon p^t them down to roast. Wheat ears, and other small birds, •nust be done in the same manner. Haines. Having cut off the four legs at the first joint, laise Ihe skin of the back, and draw it over the hind legs. Leave the tail whole draw tlie skin over the back, no 3b2 TRUSSING POULTRY. and slip out the fore-logs. Cut the skhi off the neck and head; but take care to loa\'e the cars on, and mind to skin them. Take out tiie liver, lights, d:c. and be sure to draw the gut out of the vent. Cut the sinews that lie imder the hind-legs, bring them up to the fore-legs, put a skewer through the hind-leg, then through the fore-leg under the joint, run it tlirough the body, and do the same on the other side. Put another skewer through the thick part of the hind-legs and body, put the head between the shoidders, and run a skewer through to keep it in its place. Put a skewer in each ear to make them stand erect, and tie a string round the middle of the body over the legs to keep them in their place. A young fawn must be trussed just in the same manner, except that the ears must be cut off. Rabbits must be cased much in (he same manner as hares, only observing to cut off tlie ears close to the head. Cut open the vent, and slit the legs about an inch up on each side of the rump. Make the hind-legs lie flat, and bring the ends to the fore-legs. Put a skewer into the hind-leg, then into the fore-leg, and through the body. Bring the head round, and put it on the skewer. Ifyouwantto roast two together, truss them at full length with six skewers run through them both, so that they may be properly fastened on the spit. ^ ^a.jiiv \r ii.A;-» y\jT /d-^l./ JA^/ ^^aMrM>u/ H'ltttf t'^' ^^^lofw ART OF CARVING. NOTHIX^i can be more disagieeable to a person who is placed b< the head of a table, and whose business it is to pay the necessary honours to guests invited, than to be defective in not being properly able to carve the ditferent articles provided. From the want ol knowledge in this particular, it must naturally become no less painful to the person who undertakes the task, than uncomfortable to those who are waiting for the compliment of being served. Abilities and dexterity in this art are striking qualifications in the eyes of every company, and are material instruments of forming the necessary and polite graces of the table. The instructions here laid down by words, are materially enliven- ed by the representations of the respective articles described, so that the young and inexperienced may, by proper attention to the descrip- tion, and reference to the plates, scon make themselves proficients in this useful and polite art. We shall commence the subject with describing the method of carving A Roast Foivl. In the plate the fowl is placed in the centre, and is represented as lying on its side, with one of the legs, wings, and neck-bone, taken off. Whether the fowl is roaslcd or boiled, it must be cut uj) in the same manner. A roasted fowl is sent to table nearly in the sanie manner as a pheasant, excepting that the [)heasant has the head tucked under one of the wings, whereas the fowl has the head cut off before it is dressed. In a boiled fowl (which is represented in the same plate) the legs are bent inwards, and tucked into the belly ; but, previous to its being sent to table, the skewers are withdrawn. The most convenient method of cutting up a fowl is to lay it on your plate, and, as you separate the joints, m the line n, h, d, put them into the dish. . The legs, wing-;, and merry-thouijht being removed, the next thinc^ is to cut olfthc neck-bones. This is done by putting in the knife at {T, and passing it under the long broad part of the bone in the line ff; h, then lifting it up, and breaking off the end of the shorter part of the bone, which cleaves to the breast-bone. All the parts being thus separated from the carcase, divide the breast from the back, by cut- ting through the tender ribs on each side, from the neck quite down to the vent or tail. Then lay the back upwards on your plate, fix your fork under the rump, and laying the edge of your knife in the Sue h, c, c, and pressing it down, lift up the tail, or lower part of the 2T .i54 CARVING. hack, and it will readily *1\\ ide with the help of your knife in the line /;, e, r. In the next place, lay the lower part of the back upwards in your plate, with the rump from you, and cut off the sidc-boncs, (or sidesmen, as they arc {feudally culled,) by forcing the knife through the rump-bone in the line f',y', when your fowl will be completely cut up. Boiled Find, ^V^E have before observed, that a boiled fowl i.s cut up in the same manner as one roasted, hi the representation of this the fowl is com- plete, whereas in that part of the other it is in part dissected. Those parts, which are generally considered as the most prime, are the wings, breast, and merry-thought, and next to these the neck-bones, and sidesmen. The legs of boiled fowls are more tender than those that are roasted ; but every part of a cliicken is good and juicy. As he thigh bones of a chicken are wcry tender, and easily broken with the teeth, the gristles and marrow render them very delicate. In the joiled fowl the leg should be separated from the drum-stick, at the joint, which is easily done, if the knife is introduced into the hollow, and the thigh-bone turned back from the leg-bone. Partridge. The Partridge is here represented as just taken from the spit; but before it is served up, the skewers must be withdrawn. It is cut up in the same manner as a fowl. The wings must be taken off in the lines ^/, i, and the merry-thought in the line c. d. The prime parts of a partridge are, the wings, breast, and merry-thought. The wing is considered as the best, and the tip of it reckoned the most delicate morsel of the whole. Pigeons. Here are the representations of two, the one with the back upper- most, and the other with the breast. — That with the back uppermost is marked No. 1. and that with the breast No. 2. Pigeons are some- times cut up in the same manner as chickens. But as the lower part, with the thigh, is in general most preferred, and as, from its small size, half a one is not too much for mrst appetites, they are seldom carved now, otherwise than by fixing the fork at the point a, entering the knife just before it, and dividing the pigeon into two, cutting away in the lines a, h, and a, r, No. 1, at the same time bring- ing the knife out at the back, in the direction a, Ir, and (i, c, No. 2. A Pheasant. In the representation here given, the bird appears in a propel etate for the spit, with the head tucked under one of the wings. When laid in the dish, the skewers drawn, and the bird carried to table, it must be carved as follows : fix your fork on that part of the brc;ast where the two dots are marked, by which means you will have a full conunand of the bird, and can turn it as you think proper. Slice down the breast in the lines '/, l>, and then proceed to take ofT the leg on one side, in the direction d, c, or in the circular dotted CARVING , 35? line b, d. This done, cut off" the whig on tlie same side, in the line r, (I. When you have sejjarated the leg and wing on one side, do the same on the other, and then cut ofT, or separate from tlie breast- bone, on each side of the breast, the parts you before sUced or cut down. Be very attentive in taking off the wing. Cut it in the notch n, for if you cut too near the neck, as at g, you will find vour- self interrupted by the neck-bone, from whence the wing must be separated. Having done this, cut off the merry-thouglit in the line f, g, by passing the knife under it towards tlie neck. With respecL to the remaining parts, they are to be cut up in the same manner as directed for a roast fowl. The parts most admired in a pheasant are, first, the breast, then the wings, and next the merry-thought. A Goose. Let the neck-end lie before you, and begin by cuttmg two or three long slices on each side the breast, in the lines a, b, quite to the bone. Cut these slices from the bone, then take off the leg, turning the goose up on one side, putting the fork through the small end ot the leg bone, and pressing it close to the body, which, when the knife has entered at rl, will easily raise the joint. Then pass the knife under the leg in the direction rl, e. If the leg hangs to the carcase, at the point f, turn it back with the fork, and, if the goose is young, it will easily separate. Having removed the leg, proceed to take off the wing, by passing the fork through the small end of the pinion, pressing it close to the body, and entering the knife at the notch c, and passing it under the wing in the direction c, d. This is a very nice thing to hit, and can only be acquired by practice. When you have taken off the leg and wing on one side, do the same on the other. Then cut off the apron in the liney, f, g^ having done which, take off the merry-thought in the line /, h. All the other parts are to be taken off in the same manner as directed for the fowl. A goose is seldom quite dissected, unless the company is very large, in which case the above method must be pursued. The parts of a goose most esteemed are, the slices from the breast; the fleshy part of the wing, which may be divided from the pinion ; the thigh-bone, (or drum-stick as it is called,) the pinion, and the side-bones. If sage and onions are put into the body of the goose, (which is by most approved of,) when you have cut off the limbs, draw it out with a spoon at the place from whence the apron is taken, rind mix it with the gravy, which should first be poured boiling hot into the body of the goose. Some people are particularly fond of the rump, which, after being nicked with a knife, is peppered and salted, and then broiled till it is of a nice light brown; and this is distin- guished by the epithet of r/ devil. The same is likewise done by the ruiTw- of a turkey. Haunch of Venison. First cut it across down the bone, in the line b, c, a, then turn the dish with the end d, towards you, put in the point of the knife at c, and cut ft down as deep as you can in the direction r, d, so that the two strokes will then form the resemblance of the letter T. Having 30* 556 CAKviNc;. cut it thu3, you may cut as many slices ai are necessary, ace rding to the number of the company, cutliu;; tliem cither on the right or left. As the fat lies deeper on the lott between d and a, those who are fond of fat, (as is the case with rt^ost admirers of venison,) the best flavoured and fattest slices will be found on the left of the line r, d, supposing the end tl turned towards you. In cutting the slices, re- member that they must not be either too thick or too thin. ^Vith each slice of lean add a proper proportion of fiit, and put a suiricient quantity of gravy into each plate. Currant-jelly should alwa_ j be on the table for those who choose it. Indeed this is generally used by most. A Fore-Quarter of Lamb. This joint is always roasted, and when it comes to table, before you can help any one, you must separate the shoulder from the breast and ribs, (or what is by some called the coast,) by passing the knife under, in the direction c, g, c/, e. The shoulder, being then taken off, the juice of a lemon, or Seville orange, should be squeezed upon the part it was taken from, a little salt added, and the shoulder re- placed. The gristly part must (hen be separated from the ribs in (he line f, g, and then all the preparatory business to serving will be done. The ribs are generally most esteemed, and one, two, or more may be easily separated from the rest, in the line a, b : but to those who prefer the gristly par(, a piece or two may be cut off in the lines h, i, &c. If you should have a fore-quarter of grass lamb that runs large, the shoulder, when cut off, must be put into another dish, and carved in the same manner as a shoulder of muKon. A Pig. A Piu IS seldom sent whole to table, but is usually cut up by the cook, who takes off (he head, spli(s the body down the back, and garnishes the dish with the chops and ear^. Before you help any one at table, first separate the shoulders I'rom the carcase, and then the legs, according to the direction given by the dotted line r, fi, r. The most delicate part of a pig is that about the neck, which may be cut off in the line /", g. The next best parts are the ribs, which may be divided in (he line a. b, &c. and (he o(hers are pieces cut from the legs and shoulders. Indeed (he bones of a pig are li((le else (han grislle, so (hat it may be cut in any part with- out (he least difficulty. It produces such a variety of delicate bits, that the fancies of most may be readily gratified. Shoulder of Mutton. This is a very fine joint, and by many preferred to (he leg, it being very full of gravy, if properly roasted, and producing many nice bits. The figure No. 1, represents it as laid in the dish wi(h the back up- permost. When it is first cut, it should be in the hollow part of it in the direction r/, b, and (he knife should be passed deep to the bone. The gravy will then run fast into the dish, (he part will immediately cpen, and many fine slices will be readily cut from it. The prima CAUVING. 357 pait c: she lut lies on the outer edge, and is tt. be cut out in thin slices ill the direction c f. If many are at table, and the hallow part cut in the lino a, h, is •aten, some very good and delicate slices may be cut out on each side the ridge ot' the blade-bone, in the direction c, rl. The line between these two dotted lines, is that in the direction of which the edge, or ridge of the blade-bone lies, and cannot be cut across. No. 2 represents the under-side, where there are two parts very full of gravy, and such as many prefer to the upper-side. One is a deep cut in the direction g, //, accompanied with fat, and the other all lean, in a line from / to /,-. The parts above the shaidi are coarse and dry ; but yet some prefer this to the rich and more juicy parts. Ji Saddle uf Mutton. This is by some called a chine of mutton, and consists of the two loins together, the back-bone running down the middle of the tail. When you cuve it you must cut a long slice in either of the fleshy parts, on the side of the back-bone, in the direction a, b. There is seldom any great length of tail left on, but if it is sent up with the tail, many will be fond of it, and it may be easily divided into several pieces, by cutting between the joints of the tail, which are about an inch apart. A Cod's Head. Fisii in general requires very little carving, the fleshy parts being those principally esteemed. A cod's head and shoulders, when ia season, and properly boiled, is a very genteel and handsome dish. When cut, it should be done with a spoon fish-trowel, and the parts about t'ne back-bone on the shoulders 'ate ihe most firm and best. Take ofTa piece quite down to the bone, in the dnection a, b, c, <•/, putting in the spoon at '/, r, and with each slice offish give a piece of the 'ound, which lies underneath the back-bone and lines it, the meat oT which is thin, and a little darker coloured than the body of the fish itself, this may be got by passing a knife or spool underneath, in Ihe direction '/, f. About the head are many delicate parts, some fine, kernels, and a great deal of the jelly kind. The jelly parts lie a!)i)tit the jaw bcjnes, and the firm parts within the head. Some are fond of the palate, and others the tongue, which likewise may be got, bv putting a spoon into the mouth, in t'ne direction of the line r. A Piece of Boiled Salmon. TiiK fattest and richest part of salmon is the belly ; it is therefore customary to give to those who like both, a thin slice of each; the one cut out of the belly in the direction r, 'I, the other out of the beck in the line a, h. Most people who are fond of salmon generally 1 ke the skin, so that the slices must be cut thin with the skin on. A Mackarel. Slit the fish all along the back in the line '/, r, b, and fake ofTlha whole side, as far as the line A r, not too near the head, as the meal 358 CARVING. above tlie gills is (^'encrally black, and ill flavoured. The roe of a male fish is soft, but that of the female is hard, and full nf small cgija. A CaJfs Head. In carving this, begin by cutting the flesh quite along the cheek bone, in the direction r, 6, from whence several handsome slices may be taken. In the fleshy part, at the end of the jaw-bone, lies part of the throat-sweet-brcad, which may bo cut into, in the line r, r/, and which is esteemed the best part in the head. Many like the eye, which is to be cut from i'.s socket r/, by forcing the point of the knife down to the bottom of one edge of the socket, and cutting quite round, keeping the point of the knife slanting towards the middle, so as to separate the meat from the bone. The palate is also reckoned by some very delicate : it lies on the imder side of the roof of the mouth ; is a wrinkled, white, thick skin, and may be easily separated from the bone by a knife, by raising tb.e head with your left hand. There is also some nice tender bits on the under side, covering the under jaw, and some delicately gristly fat to be pared off about the ear, ^. In the upper-jaw is the large tooth behind, which, having se- veral cells, and being full of jelly, is called the sweet-tooth ; but its delicacy is more in the name than any thing else. When yon serve any person with a slice of the head, you must inquire whether they choose to have any of the tongue and brains, which are generiiHy served up in a separate dish. A slice from the thick part of the tongue, near the root, is the best. Leg of Mutton. A LEG of wether IMutton, which is by far the best flavoured, may be readily known by the kernel, or little round lump of fat, just above the letters r/, *'. This joiiif, whether boiled or roasted, is carved in the same manner. The person who does this business should turn the joint towards him as it here lies, the shank to the left hand ; then holding it steady with his fork, he should cut it deep on the fleshy part, in the hollow of the thigh, quite to the bone, in the direction 11, b. Then will he cut it right through the kernel of fat called the p'>/;f''.v p//'. nf which many are particularly fond. The most juicy parts of the leg are in the thick part of it, from the line «, !>, upward, towards <■ ; but many prefer the drier part, about the shar.k or knuckle, which some call the venison part, from its eating so short ; but this is certainly the coarsest part of the joint. The fat lies chiefly on the ridges e, r, and is to be cut in the direction c,f. In order to cut out what is by some called the crainp-bone, and by others the gentleman's bone, you must take hold of tiie shank-bone witii your left hand, and cutting down to the thigh-bone at the point <■/, then passing the kuife under t!ie cramp-bone, in the direction d, r, ii may easily be cut out. A Ham. A \i\n is cut two ways, either across in the line h, r, or in the 'Cir- cular line in the middle, taking out a small t^iece as at a, and calling thin slices in a circular direction, thus cnlargmg it by degrees. Thia CA\{\^'lNO fr. ufc ./)riii- I-/ ./j<,i ( i'//i v-o Jlc/tay J//iri//,/i r y . lit///, n ^. i^ I. =-im^ o/ x^-^liMcnv ^/u-nUi-^ ,/',///' r/\ //////rn CAKVING. 359 last method is, to preserve tiie gravy and keep it moist, which ia thus prevented from runniiig out. Piece of S''loiii of Beef. As a whole sirloin is too large for families in general, so we have here only r(j)rosL>nted a part, either of wiveh must be carved in the eaine maimer. It is drawn as standing up in the dish, in order to show the inside, or upper part ; but wlien sent to table, it is always laid down, so tliat tiio part described by the letter r, lies close on the dish. Tlio part r, J, then lies uppermost, and the line a, b, under- neath. The meat on the upper side of the ribs is firmer, and of a closer texture, than the fleshy part underneath, which is by far the most tender, and of course preferred by many. To those who like the upper side, the outside slice should be first cut off, quite down to the bone, in the direction r, 'L Some people, however, instead of beginning to carve at either end, cut it in the middle of the most leshy part. For thtise who prefer the inside, several slices may be ^ut in the direction of the line a, li, pressing the knife down to the bone. But wherever the slices are cut they must be of a moderate substance, neitiier too thick nor too thin. Edge-hone of Beef. Tiis outside of this joint is generally injured in its flavour from the water in which it is boiled; a thick slice must therefore be cut off, the whole length of the joint, beginning at ", and cutting it all the way even and through the whole surface, from n to b. The soft fat, which resembles marrow, lies on the back below the letter d, and the firm fat must be cut in thin horizontal slices at the points c ; but as some people like the soft, and some the lirm fat, it is neces- sary to a-k tlie company which they prefer. The upper part, as it is generally placed in the dish, is the handsomest, fullest of gravy, most tender, antl enriched with fat ; but there are some who prefer a slice fr m the under-side, though it is lean and dry. The ske(Ver that keeps the niciit properly together when boiling is here shown at (I. This should be drao.n out before it is served up ; or, if it is ne- cessary to leave the skewer in, it should be a silver one. Brisket of Beef This is a part always boiled, and must be cut in the direction a, b, quite down to the bone, aft r having cut ofTthe outside, or first slice, which must be cut |)relty tiiick. The fat cut with this slice is a firm, gristly fat, but a softer f.it is found underneath for those who pre- fer .t. Breast of Veal. A breast of veal must be cut across quite through, dividing thft gristles from the rib-bonos : this is called cutting the brisket from the ribs. The brisket may be cut into pieces as wanted ; for some pre- fer this part to the ribs. There requires no great direction how to separate the ribs, since nothing more is required than to put the knife in at the top between any two, and continue downwards till 360 CARVING. they are separated. Reinumbcr to give a piece of the sweetbread to every one you liulp, as that is reckoned particularly delicate. Fillet of Veal. This part of the calf is the same as that called ihe biiltuck iii tli< ox. Many peoole think the outside slice of a fillet of veal a delicacy, because it is most savoury ; hut as some think otherwise, the ques- tion should be asked before any one is helped. If no one chooses the (irst slice, lay il in the dish, and the second cut \\ill be exceeding white and delicate ; but take care to cut it even and close to (he bone. A fillet of veal is always stuffed under the skirt or flap, with a pudding, or lorcemeat. This you must cut deep into, in a line with the surface of the fillet, and take out a thin slice. This, and a thin slice of fat cut from the skirt, must be given to each person at table. Spare/ ib of Pork. This is carved by cutting out slices in the thick part at the bottom '' the bones. When the fleshy part is all cut away, the bones, which u,e esteemed very sweet picking, may be easily separated. I^ew people admire the gravy of pork, it being too strong for most stomachs. Jiahbits. To luilacr a rabbit, the back must be turned downward, and the apron divided from the belly. This done, slip your knife between the kidneys, loosening the flesh on each side. Then turn the belly, cut the back crossways between the wings, and draw your knife down both sides of the back-bone, dividing the sides and legs from the back. Observe not to pull the leg too violently from the bone, when you open the side ; but with great exactness lay opea the sides from scut to shoulder, and then put the legs together. Woodcocks. To tliigh a woodcock, you must raise the legs and wings in the Siamc manner as you 4J0 a fowl, only open the head for the brains. In like manner you tliigk curlews, plovers, or snipes, using no other sauce than salt. JSIallards or Ducks. To tinbracf a mallard or duck, first raise the pinions and legs, but do not cut them ofl*. Then raise the merry-thought from the breast, and lace it down both sides with your knife. Buttock of Beef This part is always boiled, and requires little directions as to the rarving of it. A thick slice should be first taken ofl" all round it. When you come to the juicy and prime part of it, you must be careful to cut it even, that it may have a graceful figure, should it be brPM^bi lo table cold the next day. THE NEW ria.rviii.ir receipt-book (Herman method of Clnnfi/ing and Preserving .Fresh Biit.er. A VALUABLE article, the original communication of an ingenious traveller, who resided many years in Germany, " The peculiar ad- vantage of clarified butter," says this gentleman, " though but little known in England, is unequalled for most culinary purposes, for fry- ing, and for general use in long sea-voyages, where no fresh butter Is to be had. Indeed this purified butter is equal to the best virgin oils of Florence, Aix, or Lucca, for frying in perfection. At Vienna, and in many other parts of Germany, it is sold in all the shops. The best is purified at the dairies, during the cheapest season, and sent to market in barrels and tubs ; it is then clarified. Set a large clean tinned copper vessel on a trivet, over a charcoal fire ; and put in the new butter, before it has taken any ill taste, but not in large portions at a time. With the quantity of about fifty pounds, add a large onion peeled and cut crossway. The whole must be closely v.atched, Lnd kept skimming the moment it begins to boil ; and the fire then lackened, that it may only simmer for five minutes ; after which, if t cannot be suddenly removed, the fire to be immedialely extinguish- ■d. The onion then taken out, the butter to be left standing till every mpurity sinks to the bottom ; as all that has not risen to the skimmer lever fails doing. Large tin canisters, stone jars, or wooden ves- ols made air-tight, holding about fifty pounds each, should receive he liquid butter, and be kept closely covered up for use. This but- er should be constantly taken out as it is wanted, with a wooden poon ; neither the hand, nor any metal, ever suffered to touch it." Qxieen Elizabcth^s Cordial Electuary. Boil a pint of the best honey ; and, having carefully taken off ill the scum, put into the clarified liquid a bundle of hyssop which las been well bruised, previously to tying it up, and let them boil to- gether till the honey tastes strongly of the hyssop. Then strain out the honey very hard ; and, putting into if a quarter of an ounce eacn of powdered liquorice root and aniseed, half that quantity of pulverized elecampane and angelica roots, and one pennyweight each of finely beaten pepper and ginger, let the whole boil together a short time, being well stirred all the while. After which, pour it into a gallipot, or a small jar, and continue stirring till it is quite cold. Keep it co- r«red up for use ; and, whenever troubled with straitness at the sto- mach, or shortness of breath, take some of the electuary on a brui- sed stick of liquorice, which will speedily afford relief. This is said to have been Queen Elizabeth's favourite remedy for all oppres- sion at tne sioinacn and shortness of breath, w ith which complaints her majesty had been much afHirted ; 5^he lived till seventy-three years of age. 4 THK Ni;\V KA««LI Genuine i'V/flz-'i- lialsuin Pgt lour ounces ofsarsaparilhi cut in short pieces, two ounces of Cliina root sliced thin, and an ounce of Virginian snake-ueed cut small, with one quart ol" spirits of wine, in a two quart bottle. Set it in the sun, or any equal degree of heat, shaking it two or three tiiiies a day, till the s|)irit be tinctured of a line golden yellow. Then riear oifthe infusioii into another bottle ; and, putting in eight ounces :>r giMTi guaicum, set it in the sun, or other similar heat ; shaking it vtrry often, till all the gimi be dissolved, except the dregs, which will yonerally be about ten or twelve days. It must now be a second time cleared from the dregs ; and, having received an ounce of Peruvian balsam, be well shaken, and again placed in the sun for two days ; after which, an ounce of balm of Gilead being added, it is to be once more shaken together, and finally set in the sun for fourteen days, when it will become quite fit for use, and keep many years. The'.e were, formerly, scarcely any complaints, either external or internal, for which this admirable balsam was not considered as an effectual remedy. It has, in truth, many virtues, when i)roperly made ; but, as a mere vulnerary, for common flesh wounds, the simj)ler and cheaper balsams, sold under the names of Friar's IJalsain, Turling- ton's balsam, and the Ti-aumatic Balsam of the Loiidon Dispensatory, are usually efficacious. Neither of these, however, nor any of the oilier compound balsams, or restorative drops, formed on the basis of this true Friar's balsam, are so well adapted for internal use ; and some of them, as commonly manufactured for sale, are quite unfit for any such purpose. The dose of genuine Friar's balsam, for consumptions, or any inward ulcer, &c. is about half a table spoon- ful, on a lump of sugar, or in any liquid vehicle, once or twice a day, according to the urgency of the case, using moderate exercise while in the habit of taking it. In any soreness of the stomach, and for some coughs, twenty or thirty drops occasionally taken, often give complete relief; and, in almost every weakness or debility, they may be advantageously resorted to, as well as by persons afflicted with scorbutic complaints, and other taints or impurities of the blood. Excellent Lozenges for the Heart hnrn. Take calcined oyster shells, as found on the sea-coast, where tbey are so blanched by time as to appear, both within and without, of the whiteness of mother of pearl ; dry them uell by ho fire, and then heat and sift them as fine as possible. In half a ])ound of this pow- der mix half a poimd of loaf sugar well beaten and sifted ; and wot it with a spoonful or two of milk and water, so as to form a very stifl paste. Then mould the whole into neat lozenges, of any fornti or size, and bake tliem very dry in so slack an oven as not to dis- colour them ; this will be effected after every thing else is drawn. These lozenges so efrectuallv dcsiroy that acidify in the stomach which causes the heart-burn, iis not only to prevent the di^a::reeable sensation it occasions, but greatly io ]>romote digestion. Their pow- er in neutralizing acids may he easily tried, by dissolving one of them in a irlass of the shar|>est vinegar. KECKirr-BUOK. 5 Decoction oj the Bettrds of Leeks, for the Stone o) d GraveL CvT olFa large handful of the bcaids of leeks ; and "Jut them in !( jtot or |)i|)kni witli two quart.-i of water, covered closely up, and to l.i- kept simmering till the liquor is reduced to a quart ; then to be poured oft', and drank every morning, noon, and evening, about the tiiird part of a pint each time. IJalf the quantity, or less, may be sutiicient for children, according to their respective ages, and the vio- leiire of the disease. The most desperate condition of this painful disorder has frequently been cured by this seemingly-simple remedy iu little more than a month. It is best to keep making it fresh every two or three days, which indeed is the case with most vegetable de- coctions. Instant Relief for a Pain and Lax State of the Bowels. Take twelve drops of laudanum in half a gill of spirituous cin- namon-water; or, if that cannot be immediately had, in the best brandy. This will seldom fail to give instant relief; but, should it so fail in the first instance, it may be repeated in about an hour. The true Daffifs Elixir. The popular medicine sold under this name is differently made by different venders. The following, however, is considered as the ge- nuine receipt for making it. — Take five ounces of aniseeds, three ounces of fennel-seeds, four ounces of parsley-seeds, six ounces of Spanish liquorice, five ounces of senna, one ounce of rhubarb, three ounces of elecampane-root, seven ounces of jalap, twenty-one drachms of saff'ron, six ounces of manna, two pounds of raisins, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, and two gallons of brandy. Stone the raisins, slice the roots, and bruise the jalap. Then mix the whole to- gether ; and, after letting them stand close covered for fifteen days, strain out the elixir. So favourite a remedy has Daffy's elixir been for all colicky pains, during the last hundred years, that many fa- milies have been enriched by its preparation and sale ; a few of whom there is reason to believe, have used not half the ingredients above enumerated. The cheap stuff", commonly sold as Daffy's elixir, is little more than an infusion of aniseeds, liquorice, and jalap, in the coarsest and most fiery malt spirit, lowered with common water. Infallible Remedy for the Ague. jMix a q\iarter of an ounce each of finely powdered Peruvian bar*:, grains of paradise, and long pepper, in a quarter of a pound of trea ere ; of which mixture, t .ke a third part immediately as the cold fii commences, ^va^hing it cown with half a quartern of the best Frer.cn brandy. As the cold fit goes off, and the fever approaches, take a third part, with the like quantity of brandy ; and, on the following morning, fasting, swallow the remainder, and the same quantity of brandy as before. This excellent electuary, which is said never to tail, perlecfly cured an afflicted person, after being most grievously tormented for the greater part of four years, having almost every fit accompanied by delirium, during which period mnumerablo othe» O TMK NKW K\..iiL.f remedies had been tried in vniii. The person fn m whom it was obtained, declared ibat be bud cured many bundrcd [tersons, and ne- ver mot witb but a single instance wbere tbe tbree doses did not irn- iiKidialely cflect a cure, and even tbcn a second tbree completely prevailed. To cbildren under nine years of age, only balflbe above quantities must be given. Bayleifs Patent Cakes for Liquid Blacking. This blacking bas been tbe scource of an ample fortune to tbe patentee, tbe celebrated Mr. Bayley, of Cockspur-strcet, Cbaring- cross, wbose exclusive rigbt bas lately expired. It is made, accord- ing to the specilication in the patent office, with one part of the gummous juice which issues from the slirub called goat's thorn, du- ring the months of June, July, and August ; four parts of river- water ; two j)arts of neat's-foot, or some other softening and lubri- cating oil ; two |)arts of a deep blue colour, prepared from iron and copper ; and four parts of brown sugar candy. Tbe water is then evaporated till the composition becomes of a proper consistence, when it is formed into cakes of such a size as to produce, when dissolved in hot water, a pint of liquid blacking. An Incomparahh Fumigation, or T^apour^fur a Sore Throat, Take a pint of vinegar, and an ounce of myrrh ; boil them well together about half an hour, and then pour tbe liquid into a basin. Place over tbe basin the large part of a funnel which fits it ; and, the small end being taken into tbe mouth of tlie patient, the fume will be inhaled, and descend to the throat. It must be used as hot as it can possibly be borne ; and should be renewed every quar- ter of an hour, till a cure is effected This excellent remedy will seldom or never fail, if resolutely persisted in, only for a day or two, and sometimes a very few hours, in the most dangerous state of either an inflammatory or putrid sore throat, or even a quinsy. Dr. Fullar's Vapour for a (Quinsy. TaivK powdered pepper, one ounce ; milk, a quart ; and boil them to a pint and a half. Put the whole into a glass bottle with a small neck, and let the vapour be received as liot as can be endured with open mouth. " This euporiston," says that learned pbysican, " more powerfully than any gargle whatsoever, attenuates, melts down, and draws fortii, lough phlegm ; whicb., by obstructing the glands and sj)ongy flesh, and hindoriug the free passar tlic preferable use of such vaporous inhalements over common gargles and other medicines, in dangerous complaints of the throat, 'lillli-. &c. RKCElPT-noOK. 4 Fine lied Ink. lic.iL four ottices of best i;i~!pings of Hriizil-wood, and one ounce ea< li of crysta.o cf tartar and powdered alutn in a quart of the clcaiest rivcr-watcr, till half the fluid be evaporated. While it is yet sufficieutly warm, dissolve in it an ounce each of double-relined sugar, and the wliitest gum arabic. This rine ink is said to preserve its lively red hue much longer than any other known preparation for the same purpose. The common red ink, which is certainly far cheaper, and will do very well for most occasions, is made by infusing four ounces of J3razil-wood raspings with two drachms of powdered alum, in a pint each of vinegar and rain-water, for two or three days, and afterward boiling them over a moderate fire till a third part of the fluid has evaporated. It is then to stand two or three days ; and, being filtered through blottmg-paper, to :>" pre- served in closely-corked bottles for use. Method of Cleansing and Polishing Rusty Steel. After, well oiling the rusty parts of the steel, let it remain two or three days in that state, then wipe it dry with clean rags, and po- lish with emery or pumice-stone, on hard wood. Frequently, how- ever, a little unshtcked lime, finely powdered, will be sufficient, after the oil is cleaned off. Where a very high degree of polish is re- quisite, it will be most effectually obtained by using a paste com- posed of iinely levigated blood-stone and spirits of wine. Bright bars, however, are admirably cleaned in a few minutes, by using a small portion of fine corn emery, and afterward finishing with flour of emery or rotten-stone ; all of which may be had at any ironmonger's. This last very simple method will, perhaps, render any other superfluous. A fine Balsamic Elixir for confirmed Coughs and Consumptions. Take a pint of the finest old rum, two ounces of balsam ot Tolu, an ounce and a half of Strasburg turpentine, an ounce of powdered extract of Catechu, formerly called Japan earth, and half an ounce each of gum guaiacum and balsam of copavia. Mix them well together in the bottle ; and keep it near the fire, closely corked, for ten days, frequently well shaking it du- rmg that time. Afterwards let it stand two days to settle, and pour ofl' the clear for use. Half a pint of rum may then be poured over the dregs ; and, being treated for twelve days in the same manner as t!ie first, will produce more eli.vir, and equally good. The dose n)av be from fifty to a hundred, or even two hundred drops, acc;ird- infT to tlie urgency of the case, taken twice or thrice a day in a wine glass of water. Admiral Gascoigne''s Tincture of ithuharh. Take half an ounce each of powdered rhubarb, myrrh, cochineal, and hierapicra, and put them in a bottle with one quart of the best double-distilled aniseed water. When it has stood four days, it is fit' for immediate use . and may be taken, a small wins- Has3 at time, for any pain? in the s'omach or bowels. In th« 8 TMR NKW <^AM1I,Y valuable CO ..ection whence Ihis is extracted, is tlie following me- inorandiim — " There is not a heltcr receipt in the world !" German Cure for a Consumption. Take a pound of pure honey, and let it boil gently in a stewpan ; then, having washed, scraped clean, and finely grated with a sharp grater, two large sticks of fresii horse-radish, stir into the honey as much as you possibly can. It must remain in a boiling state about five minutes, but stirred so as not to burn ; after which, put it into small earthen pots, or ajar, and keep it covered ii[) for use. Two or three table spoonsful a day, or more, according to the strength of the patient, and some time persisted in, is said to perform wonders, even where there is a confirmed phthisis pulmonalis, or consumption of the lungs. It is also serviceable in all coughs where the lung8 are greatly affected. Easy and effectual Cure for fVens. Put a quantity of salt and water into a saucepan, and boil it four or five minutes ; with which, while tolerably hot, bathe the entire surface of the wen, however large ; and continue so to do, even after it is cold. Every time, before applying it, stir up the salt de- posited at the bottom of the basin, and incorporate it again with the water. In this manner the wen must be rubbed well over, at least ten or twelve times every twenty-four hours ; and, frequently in less than a fortnight, a small discharge takes place, without any pain, which a gentle pressure soon assists to empty the whole con- tents. In particular instances, it is necessary to continue the appli- cation several weeks, or even months : but it is said always finally to prevail, where resolutely persisted in, and that without occasioning pain or inconvenience of any kind, there being not the smallest pre- vious notice of the discharge. A person who had, for many years, been an object of attraction in the streets of London, from having a most enormous wen hanging on his neck and breast, being sudden- ly seen, with astonishment, completely divested of it, was asked how he had lost it, without the appearance of any scar or other di-s- figurement ; when he declared, that he had been happily relieved of his incumbrance, in a very few months, by simply rubbing it with the old rusty fat and brine of bacon. This undoubted fact may serve as a hint, should the still simpler preparation of salt and water ever seem likely to prove insufficiently powerful. Genuine Lozenges for the Files, as used ??i the West Indies, and other warm climates. Take four ounces of fine powdered loaf sugar, two ounces of flour of sulphur, and a sufficient quantity of mucilage of gum tacamahaca dissolved in red rose water to form the whole into a paste for lozen- ges. Having made it up in lozenges of the desired form, dry them before the fire, or in an oven after every thing has been drawn. Take, of these lozenges, about the weight of a drachm daily. This is a mos valuable medicine for that disagreeable and dreadful complaint; KECEIPT-BOOK. 9 which prevails much, and is a peculiarly grievous and even danger- ous disease in the West India Islands, as well as in most other hoi -climates. It is, however, generally found (ompletely cfiicacious even in those regions. Easy Alcthod of cleaning Paper Hangings. Cut into eight half-quarters a quartern loaf two days old ; it must neither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, after having blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned by means of a good pair of bellows, begin at (he top of the room., holding ihe crust in the. hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half a yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is complete- ly cleaned all round. Then go again round, with the like sweeping stroke downward, always commencing each successive course a lit- tle higher than the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will frequently make very old paper look almost equal to new. Great caution iiiust be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt clean- ing it the cross or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread, too, must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as soon as at all necessary. Sir John HilVs Specific for the Scurvy. Sir John's own description of this excellent remedy will convey its virtues. " There is in the hands of one person only a medicine of very great efficacy in the cure of the scurvy, leprosy, and other desperate cutaneous disorders. Its effect is certain ; but it is kept at so exorbitant a price, that only persons of fortune can have the advantage of it. " A gentleman of great worth and goodness applied some months since to the person who possesses it, in favour of two daughters of a country clergyman. He did not desire it should be given, hut re- quested it at any moderate price. He was refused. A boKle of the medicine was afterward procured, and put into my hands to exa- mine. It appeared to me, on many trials, to be an infusion of the root of the common great water-dock, and nothing else. I have made an infusion of that root, which perfectly agrees with it in taste, smell, and colour, and, what is more important, in virtues. " This is no modern invention ; the plant was long since known and celebrated : it is the famous lUiUnniita (intiqiionnn rein of au- thors, concerning which such wonders arc recorded in the cure of scurvies ; but, like many other English plants, it has long been neg- lected. " I beg you to make this public for the service of those whom the common remedies have failed to cure, and whose fortunes do not aift)rd their gomg to the person hitherto possessed of the secret for redress. The method of infusion and decoction both will answer better than that by infusion alone, and what I have directed to several who have found great benefit fioiu it, is made thus : " Weigh half a pound of the fresh root of great water-dock, cut it into thin slices, put it i:i a stone jar, and poi:r upon it a jralhin o'" TlIK NF.W FAMILY boiling water, cover it up, and let it stand twcnty-fonr hours : then put the whole into a saucepan, and boil it about cif^ht minutes. After this let it stand to be quite cold, then sliain it (-fl"\vilhout squeezing. Driniv a hult'|)int basin of this twice a-day, avoid high seasoned food) and use moderate exercise. " The great good I have seen from fhis makes rnc desirous thai all may know of it v.ho want it. " I am, Sir, your humble servant, "John Hill." Russian Method of preserving Green Fens for If inter. Put into a kettle of boiling hot water any quantity of fresh-shelle- green peas : and, aftc letting them just boil up, pour them into ;. colander. When the liquor has drained away, empty them into a large thick cloth, cover them over with another, make them quite dry, set them once or twice in a cool oven, to harden a little ; after which put the peas into paper bags, and hang them up in the kitchen for use. To prepare them, when wanted, they are first well soaked for an hour or more ; and then boiled in cold water, with a few sprigs of mint, and a little butter. Green peas arc sometimes kept in Eng- land, by scalding and drying alone, without putting them in an oven ; they are afterward bottled like gooseberries or damsons covered by clarified suet, closed up with cork and resin, and either buried in the earth or kept in a cool cellar ; being boiled, when wanted, till quite tender, with mint, butter, and sugar. This last article, at least, is certainly an improvement on the Russian method. A dish of green peas, thus prepared, has sometimes agreeably surpiised friends at a Christmas dinner. Admirable Wash for the Hair, said to Thicken its Growth better than ]3car''s Grease. Take two ounces each of rosemary, maidenhair, southernwood, myrtle berries, and hazel bark ; and burn them to ashes on a clean hearth, or in an oven : with these ashes make a strong ley, with which wash the hair at the roots everyday, and keep it cut short. This lixivium, or wash, it is said, will destroy the worm at the root ; and prove far more effectual than bear's grease or pomatum, which rather feed than destroy that unsuspected enemy to the hair. Excellent Remedy for Sivellcd Legs and a Relaxed Stomach. Take six ounces of the common bitter infusion, consisting of gen« tian root and outer rind of Seville orange, with or without coriander seeds ; one ounce of tincture of senna ; and a drachm of compound spirits of lavender. Mix them together, and take four spoonsful every other night on going to bed. To prevent swelled legs from breaking, make a decoction of marshniallow leaves, rue, camomile, and southernwood, boiled in a quart of ale or stale beer ; and foment them with flannels wrung out of the liquor, as hot as can be borne without scalding, throe or four times a day. After bathing, anoint them with a little ointment of marshmallows ; and should they even be broke, only cover the holes with drv lint, while bathing or foment^ RECF.lPT-llOOK. 11 .ng ihe legs, and afterwaicls dress them with the ointment, and take u. httle cooling pliys-e, Fiiie Raspberry Vinegar. Tills excellent article in domestic management is both grateful to the palate, and a very cfFectual remedy lor com[)laints in the chest. It is made, at very little expense, in the Ibllowing manner : Pour three pints of the best white-wine vinegar over a po md and a half of fine red raspberries, in a stone jar or china bowl, for neither gla- zed earthenware nor any metal must be used : the next day, strain the liquor over a like quantity of fresh raspberries ; and the day following do the same. Then drain the liquid as much as possible without pressing the fruit ; and pass it tlirough a cotton bag previously Vv'etted with plain vinegar, merely for preventing waste, into a stone jar, with a pound of loaf sugar in large lumps to every pint of the vinegar. As soon as the sugar is melted, stir the liquor, and put the jar into a saucepan of water, to simmer for some time ; skim it carefully ; and, when cold, bottle it for use. A large spoonful, in a small tumbler of water, with a very little sugar, makes a most plea- sant and refreshing beverage, either for invalids or persons in health. Genuine TurJingion^s Balsam. Tins is a very good vulnerary balsam for common uses ; and may be safely taken internally, where the genuine friar's balsam is not at hand. The receipt for making the true Turlington's balsam, or drops, is as follows : Take an ounce of the Peruvian balsam ; two ounces of the best liquid storax ; three ounces of gum Benjamin, impregnated with almonds ; and half an ounce each of the best aloes, myrrh, frankincense, angelica roots, and the flowers of St. John's wort. Beat all these ingredients in a mortar, and put them into a large glass bottle ; adding a pint and a quarter of the best spirits of wine. Let the bottle stand by the kitchen fire, or in the chimney corner, two days and nifjlits ; then decant it ofl^, in small bottles well corked and sealed, to be kept ready for use. The same quantity of spirits of wine poured on the ingredients, well shaken up, and pla- ced near the fire, or in some other warm situation, about six or eight days and nights, will serve for slight occasions, on being bottled in a similar manner. Cephalic Snuff. Take half an ounce each of sage, rosemary, lilies of the valley, and the tops of sweet marjorum, with a drachm each of asarabacca root, lavender flowers, and nutmeg. Reduce the whole composition tO a fine pow-der ; and take it like common snufl", as often as may be necessaiy for the relief of the head, &c. There are many more pow- ernd cephalic snuffs, for particular medicinal purposes, l)ut few so generally useful, agreeable, and innocent, to be used at pleasure. Cheap and excellent Composition for preserving JVeathcr- Boarding, Paling, and all other Works liable to be injured by the Weather. liiME, it is well ko'vn, however well b n-nf, will soon become ^ticked by exposure in the oj)en air, or even if confined in a situa* 12 THK NKW FAMILY tion not remarkably dry, so as to crumble of itself iriic •_>owcler. Tliis is culled air-sluckod lime, in contraiiistiuclion to that which is shick«:d ia the usual way by being mixed with water. For the purpose of making the present usefid composition to preserve all sorts of wood Work exposed to the vicissitudes of the weather, lake three parts of this air-slacked lime, two of wood ashes, and one of fine sand ; pass them through a fine sieve, and add as much linseed oil to the composition as will bring it to a proper consistence for working with a painter's brusli. As particular care must be taken to mix it perfectly, it should be ground on a stone slab with a proper muller, in the same manner as painters grind their white lead, &c. but, where these conveniences are not at hand, the ingredients may be mixed in a largo pan, and well beaten up with a wooden spatula. Two coats of this composition being necessary, the first may be rather thin ; but the second should be as thick as it can conveniently be worked. This most excellent composition for preserving wood when exposed to the injuries of the weather, is highly preferable to the customary method of laying on tar and ochre. It is, indeed, every way better calculated for the purpose, being totally impenetrable by water ; and, so far from being liable to injury by the action of the weather or heat of the sun, that the latter, though such a powerful enemy to tar and ochred palings, &c. even hardens, and conse- quently increases the durability of, the present proposed composition, which forms an article of public utility not only much cheaper than paint, but prodigiously more lasting. Art of making Brillau's incomparable Liijuid for changing the Colour of the Hair, 4'C. This is said to be the best liquid in the world for making the hair curl, as well as for changing that which is disagreeably sandy to a very pleasing colour. The method of preparing it is as follows : Take two ounces of scrapings of lead, an ounce of hartshorn shav- ings, a quarter of an ounce of litharge of gold, and a drachm of camphor ; put them into a pint of soft water, and let them boil for half an hour. When cold and fine, pour the liquid off, and add to it a drachm each of the sugar of lead and loscmary flowers, lioil these up together ; pour ofl' the liquid ; and, when fine, it is fit for im- mediate use. Dutch Method of extracting beautiful Colours from Floioers, Leaves, Hoots, S^-c Takk the flowers, loaves, or roots, whatever quantity wished, and bruise them nearly to a pulp ; then, putting it into a glazed earthen vessel, pour filtered water sufricient to cover it, adding a table spoon- ful of a strong solution of piu"e pot-ash to every pint of water. After boiling, in a proper vessel, the whole over a mooerate fire till the li- quor has obviously imbibed as much of the colour as can possibly be obtained from the pulp, decant the fluid part through a cloth or blotting paper, and gradually drop into it a solution of alum, which precipitates the colouring matter to the bottom. Having seemed the RECEIPT-BOOK . 13 powder, continue to wash it in several fresh waters, and, a: ..ength, Altering it again through blotting-paper, dry the remaining pjwder ; from which prepare the finest pigments, for water colours, by tritu- ration on marble, with elurified gum-water, and then form them int«» cakes, cones, &(;. for sale. A fine violet colour is in this mannei prepared by the Dutch from that flower ; the most delicately rosa- ceous red, from the small French rose and other beautiful red roses ; and a most brilliant azure, from the blossoms of the corn blue-bottle. Excellent Remedy for the Dropsy. Take sixteen large nutmegs, eleven spoonsful of broom ashca dried and burnt in an oven, an ounce and a half of bruised mustard- seed, and a handful of scraped horse-radish ; put the whole into a gallon of strong mountain wine, and let it stand three or four days. A gill, or half a pint, according to the urgency of the disease and strength of the patient, is to be drank every morning fasting, taking nothing else for an hour or two after. Another powerful Remedy fur the Dropsy. Take a sufficient quantity of pelitory of the wall, put it in pump water, and let it simmer over the fire till reduced to half its quantity, then add honey to make it into a good sjriip, of which take two-thirds to one-third of a glass of Geneva, two or three times in a day till re- lieved. This actually cured the Editor's mother, after her legs had burst and discharged water several times ; and the cure was so ef- fectual, that she never had that sad disorder afterwards. Of the fining of Malt ZAquors. It is most desirable to have beer fine of itself, which it seldom fails to do in due time, if rightly brewed and worked ; but as disap- pointments sometimes happen, it will be necessary to know what to do in such cas^. Ivory shavings boiled in the wort, or hartshorn shavings put into the cask just before it is bunged down, will do much towards fining and keeping the liquor from growing stale. Isinglass is the most common thing made use of in fining all sort? of liquors ; first beat it well with a hammer or mallet, and lay it in a pail, and then draw off about two gallons of the liquor, to be fined upon it, and let it soak two or three days ; and when it is soft enough to mix with the liquor, take a whisk, and stir it about till it is ail of a ferment, and white froth ; and frequently add the wiiites and shells of about a dozen eg;^?, which beat in with it, and put all together into the cask : then with a clean mopstick, or some such thing, stir the whole together ; and then lay a cloth or piece of paper over the bung hole, till the ferment is over, and then bung it up close : in a fcv^ days it will fall fine. But if it is wanted to fine only a small quantity, take half an ounce of unslacked lime, and put it into a pint of water, and stir it well to- gether, and let it stand for two or three hours, or till the lime settle to the bottom ; then pom* the water ofl'clear, and throw away the sedi- ment ; then take half an ounce of insinglass cut small, and boil it ir. 14 rut: NKU FAMILY the lime water till it uissolvcs ; ihm lot it cool, anJ pour it i |o the vessel, &c. To make Kldrrbcrry Jleer, or Kbulum. Take a hogshead of the first and strong wort, and boil in the satna one bushel of picked oldcrherries, full ripe ; strain olF, and when cold, work the liquor in the hogshead, and not in any open tun or tub ; and, after it has lain in the cask a'jout a year, bottle it ; and it will be a most rich drink, which they call Klnjluin ; and has often been pre- ferred to port wine, for its pleasant taste and healthful quality. N. B. There is no occasion for the use of sugar in tliis operation ; because the wort has strength and sweetness enough in itself to an- swer that end ; but there should be an infusion of hops added to the liquor, by way of preserv^ation and relish. Some likewise hang a small bag of bruised spices in the vessel While cbulum may be made with pale malt and white elderberries. Easy method of Drying and Preserving Currants in Bunches Bkat well up the whites of eggs, or a lit?le gum arabic dissolved in water ; and, after dipping in the bunches, and letting thera get a little dry, roll them in finely powdered loaf sugar. Lay them on a sieve in a stove to dry ; and keep turning them, and adding sugar till they become perfectly dried. JNot only red, white, and black currants, but even grapes in bunches, may be thus dried and p^-e- served. They should be carefully kept dry, in boxes neatly hned with paper. Dr. Stoughion^s celebrated Stomachic Elixir. Pare off the thin yellow rinds of six large Seville oranges, and put them in a quart bottle, with an ounce of gentian root scraped and sUced, and half a drachm of cochineal. Four over these ingre- dients a pint of the best brandy ; shake the bottle well, several times, during that and the following day ; let it stand two days more to set- tle, and clear it off into bottles for use. Take one or two tea-spoons- ful morning and afternoon in a glass of wine, or even in a cup of tea. This is an elegant but simple preparation, little differing from the compound tincture of gentian either of the London or Edinburgh Dispensatories ; the former adding half an ounce of canella alba, (white cinnamon,) and the latter only substituting for the cochineal of Stoughton, half an ounce of husked and bruised seeds of the lesser cardamom. In deciding on their respective merits, it should seem, that Stnughton's elixir has the advantage in simplicity, and, perhaps, altogether as a general and elegant stoma('hic. Indpfd, for some particidar intentions, both the Jjondnn and Edinburgh c./ui- positions may have their respective claims to preference : i;i a cold stomach, the cardamom might be useful ; and, in a laxative ha- bit, the canella all)a. As a family medicine, however, to be at all times safely resorted to, there is no need to hesitate recommending Dr. Stoughton's elixir. Cure for a Fimphd Face. Take an ounce each of liver of sulphur, roche-alum, and common salt ; and two drachms each of sugar-candy and spermaceti. Foucd HECLIPT-BOCK. 15 and sift these articles ; then put the whole into a quart bottle, and add half a pint of brandy, three ounces of white lily water, and the oame quantity of pure spring water. Shake it well together, and keep it for use. With this liquid, the face is to be freely and trequent. y bathed ; rcniemboring always tirst to shake tl)e bottle, and, on going to bed, lay all over the face linen which has been dipped in it. In ten or twelve days at farthest, it is said a perfect cure will be effected of this >ery unpleasant complaint, as nothing in this composition can poscibiy prove prejudicial. Curious method ofscj^arating Gold or Silver from Lace, with- out hurning it. Cut in pieces the gold or silver lace intended to be divested of any thing but the pure metal ; tie it up tightly in linen, and boil it in soap ley, till the size appear considerably diminished : then take the cloth out of the liquid ; and, after repeatedly rinsing it in cold water, beat it well with a mallet, to extract all the alkaline particles. On opening the linen, to the great astonishment of those who have never before witnessed the process, the metallic part will be found pure and undiminished, in all its natural brightness, without a single thread. Permanent lied Ink for marking Linen. This useful preparation, \\hich was contrived by the late learned and ingenious Dr. Smellie of Edinburgh, who was originally a printer in that city, may be used cither with types, a hair pencil, or even with a pen : take half an ounce of vermilion, and a drachm of salt of steel; let them be finely levigated with linseed oil, to the thick- ness or limpidity required for the occasion. This has not only a very good appearance ; but will, it is said, be found perfectly to re- sist the effects of acids, as well as of all alkaline leys. It may be made of other colours, by s'.ibstituting the proper articles instead of vermilion. Portable Balls for taking out Spots from Clothes. Spots of grease, &c. are in general easily removed from woollen cloth of all descriptions by means of portable balls prepared in the following manner : Take fuller's earth, dried so as to crumble into pow der, and moisten it well with lemon juice ; then add a small quantity of pure pulverised pearl-ashes, and work vip (he whole into a thick paste. Roll this paste into small balls, let them completely dry in the heat of tlie sun, and they are then fit for immediate use. The manner of using them is, by moistening with water the spots on the cloth, nibbing the ball over them, and leaving it to dry in the sun . when, on washing (he spots with common water, and often with brushing alone, (he spots instantly disappear. ^'Jrt of preparing a neivly-discovcrcd Permanent Green Pigment, both for Oil and Water Colours. A GREEN colour, at once bcautifid and durable, discovered by the ingenious M. Kinnman, meml)er of the Swedish Academy. The pro* cess by which it b produ'^*'' '^ 'l^us descriii'^'i • Dissolve, in »qua TH !•: N K\V K V VII I, Y fMlis, a sinall quantity ot* zinc ; mi. I, i.i a |:ia-i(;^i.i, /-^''-ils. Speedy Remedy for a Bruised Eye. lioiL a handful of hyssop leaves in a little water, till they are quite tender : th*"" :^"t them up in linen, apply it hot to the eye, tie IS THK NKW lAMILY It on tightly at bcd-tiiiic, and tlio eye will next day be well. Thia receipt is taken from a laiHC and valuable collection ttiat lo.inerly belonged to the fanuly t)!" the Karl ol' Shaftcsbiny ; and it is therein asstiited, that '' a man, wlrj had his thigii teiribly bruised by the kick of a horse, was cured in a few hours, only by a poultice of the leaves o( hyssop, cut or tninced very small, and beaten up with unsalted butter. Culpepper in his herbal asserts the same resi)ecling the virtues of hyssop. StoLiach Plaster for a Cuugh. Taick bees' wax, Burgundy pitch, and rosin, each an ounce ; melt them together in a clean pipkin, and then stir in three (juarters of an ounce of connnon turpentine, and half an ounce of oil of mace. Spread it on a piece ot slieep's leather, grate some nutmeg over the whole plaster, and apply it quite warm to the region of the stomach. Oil of Brown Paper, for Burns. Take a piece of the thickest coarse brown paper, and dip it in tho ^ost salad oil ; then set the paper on the fire, and carefully preserve all the oil that dro|)S for use. This is said to be an admirable remedy for all sorts of burns. Oil of writing paper, collected in a similar man- ner, is often recommended for the tooth-ache. Liquid for removing Spots of Grea.te, Pitch, or Oil, from iVooUen Cloth. In a pint of spring water dissolve an ounce of pure pearl-ash ; adding, to the solution, a lemon cut in small slices. This being pro- perly mixed, and kept in a warm state for two days, the whole must be strained, and the clear liquid kept in a bottle for use. A little of this liquid being poured on the stained part, is said instantaneously to remove all spots of grease, pitch, or oil; and the moment they disap- pear, the cloth is to be washed in clear water. Method of taking out Ink Spots j. 'n JFoollen, Linen, and Silk. To lake spots of mli out ot woollen, they must first be rubbed with a composition, consisting of the white of an egg, and a few drops of oil of vitriol, properly incorporated : next, immediately washed with pure water ; and, lastly, have the parts smoothed, in the direction of the nap, with a piece of flannel or white woollen cloth. From linen, ink spots may be removed, by immediately dropping plentifully on them, while wet with the ink, the tallow from a lighted candle, and letting it remain on a kw days before washing the linen : this is also said to take the stains of red-port out of linen. Itdi spots on silk require to be well rubbed with the ashes of w ormwood and strong distilled vinegar, and to be afterwards cleansed with soap- water. When ink is once dried on linen, the spot is to be taken out by rubbing it well with a piece of lemon, and then using a hot iroi/ till the ink totally disappears. If a lemon be " In half, the lint>ii where spotted pressed down over it ti" the jui.j. jiehelrates thronj>i). RECf.IPT-Bt>JK. 19 and tlie hot iron thoii placed on the hncn, the spot will isnmediatel;^ give way, and soon entirely vaiii.-li. Ink Stains tikcn out of Alahogany. Put a few drops of spirit of sea-salt, or oil of vitiiol, in a tea- spconfu! of water, and touch the stain or spot with a feather ; anci, on the ink disappearing, rub it over witli a lag veiled in cold water, or there will he a white mark not easily ctlaced. Red Miociure for giving a fine. Colour (o JMahoginuj Furniture. Stains of ink beii!r use , and the patentee asserts, that they will thus certainly be preserved perfectly sound for at least two years. Chinese Mode of rendering nil Sorts of Cloth, and evoi AIns- lin, fVatcr-Proof By the following very simple process for making cloth w ater-nroot", it IS asserted that the Chinese render not only all the strongest cloths but even the most open muslins, impenetrable to the heaviest showers of rain ; nor yet, as it is said, will this composition fill up the in- terstices of tii« fiuet-t iawn, or in the slightest degree injure the most brilliant colours. The composition to which these valuable qualities are imputed, is merely a solution of half an ounce >-^f white 20 THK NEW FAMILY wiix in a pint of spirits of turpentine. In a suflficicnt cpiantity of tho mixture, made '.villi these materials, immerse tlie articles intended t(5 be rendered water-proof, and then hanj^ tliem in tiie open air till they l)econie perfectly dry. This is all the process necessary for accomplishing so desirat)le a )nrpose ; against which, however, may be objected, perlia|)s, the expense, and un|)!easant scent, of the turpentine spirits : the latter objection may be remedied by using equal parts of spirits of wine and oil of wormwood, a n^ixturc of which is said to dissi[)ate the smell of turpentine ; but the former, it is not to be denied, must necessarily be, at the same time, in some degree, augmented. It has lately been attempted, in f^ngland, to render the use of water-proof cloth general. Scautiful newly-discovered Golden Yellow Dye, for Silks, Cotton, Sf-c. This fine, lively, and durable yellow dye, has recently been dis- covered by M. Lasteyrie, who thus describes the process by which it is obtained from the shaggy spunk, or boletus hirsutus of Linna'us ; a species of mushroom, or fungus, growing chiefly on apple or wal- nut trees. This vegetable substance is replete with colouring mat- ter, which nuist be expressed by pounding in a mortar ; after which the liquid thus acquired is to be boiled about a quarter of an hour. Six pints of water may be well tinged for dying, by a single ounce of the expressed fluid. This being strained, the silk, cotton, &c. intended to be dyed, must be immersed and boiled in it for about fifteen or twenty minutes ; when fine silk, in particular, if it be after- wards passed through S')ft soap water, will appear of a bright golden yellow hue, equal in lustre to that of the silk hitherto i!n[)orted from China, at a great expense, for imitating gold embroidery. In short, every sort of stufl" retains a fine yellow colour; but it is, of course, less bright on linen and cotton. Nor is the use of this vegetable substance confined to dying ; since it has been ascertained that /he yellow extract which it yields is applicable to the purposes of painting, both in oil and in water colours. Curious J\lcthod of Breeding an innumerahJe Qanntity of the beautiful Gold and Silcvr Fi.'ih. TiiK curious process by which this is to be ea.>ily efl'ected, may be in general applied, on a larger scale, to the breeding, in equal profusion, most of our esculent fresh- water fish. It is, simply, as follows : Get a large deep cistern or vat, of any dimensions, but one of about four feet diameter, and nearly the same height or depth, will very well answer the purpose ; then take a quantity of birch, or small faggot wood, which has been previously soaked some time in a stream, sj)ring, or pond, so as to have lost all power o'" discolour- ing or giving any farther taste to fresh water, and lay this wood all along the bottom, to the thickness of about a foot, in some parts at least, having large stones on the top to keep it from rising or motion. Ueing thus certain that neither the vat nor the birch can spoil the BECEIPT-BOOK. 2J Wiitor, lunirly fill it with the best soft water froin a river or pn:u\ Siicii us liiere can be ao doubt that tiA\ will be al)li: to li\L' in. '1 he val, it is to Le observed, must be placed in the opeu air, but not in a toe cold or exposed situation ; and the breeding is to commence in the •.pring, w hen the tish are lull, and just ready to spawn. Choose, as breeders, four hard-roed or females, and only one soft-roed mileher or male. Put the five, with all possible care not to hurt them, into the vat ; feeding them occasionally, by throwing in a few crumbs of bread, or some other trifling food, but in no other way disturbing them. When they appear quite tlnn, or sholten as it is termed, they must be quietly taken out with a small net, so as by no means to disturb the spawn, and entirely kept away ; as they would, if allowed to remain, (such is the nature of these and most other fish,) soon devour the greatest part of the spawn and small fry, suffering little or none ever to reach maturity. The vat must not be disturbed during the whole summer ; only, as the water decreases, a little fresh must from time to time be as gently as possible poured in, to supply the deficiency. In the course of the summer, the vivified roes will be hatched, and the water perceived swarming with a minute fry ; fully sufficient to stock a large piece of water, if not devoured by other fish, or the several buds which make fish their prey. By this method, myriads of those beautiful fish may be easily bred ; and, consequently, be- come very common. At present, it is true, though originally intro- duced from the East Indies, of which, as well as of China, the gold fish, or cyprinus auratus of Linnaeus, is a native, it is still chiefly kept in glass globular vessels for ornament. It has, however, within these few years, been sufficiently ascertained, that these fishes thrive and propagate in ponds, or other reservoirs of water ; where ti?ey are said to acquire a nuich larger growth, and come to greater perfection, than in the oriental countries. Syruj) of Red Cabbage, as prepared m France, Cut and wash a large red cabbage, put it into a pot covered with water, and let it simmer three or four hours over a moderate fire, till there only remains about a pint of liquor ; then strain it through a sieve, pressing the cabbage forcibly to get all the juice ; let the liquor stand some hours to settle, and pour off' the clear. Put a pound of Narbonne honey into a saucepan, over a stove, w ith a glass of w ater ; .ind keep skimming it all the time it is boiling, till it be completely clarified. Then put in the cabbage juice, and make the whole boil to the consistence of a syrup ; which is always to be known, by ta- kinf a little of it on one finger, and finding that, on its being rubbed a'l-ainst the next, it forms a thread which does not instantly break. This syrup is regarded in France as a most excellent fortifier of the breast. It is undoubtedly a good pectoral syrup, very pleasant, not at all expensive, and easily made. A decoction of red cabbage, even in England, by some eminent physicians, has been frequently recommended for softening acrimonious humours ii\ disorders of the breast, and also in hoarseness. 22 THE NEW FAMILY Boluses for t/ic Jihcumatisin and Coat actions of the Joint* Bruise four cloves of garlic with two drachms ofgutn ammonia' and make them into six boluses with sjjring water. lake one every mornLiig and evening, drinking plentiluUy of sassafras lea, at least twice a day, while using this medicine. '1 his is ^aid to he a most elfectual remedy for the ilu;Lnnatisni,and equally good in contractions of the joints. Pill for an Jlching Hollow Tooth. Take half a grain each of opium and yellow sub-sulphate of quick- silver, formerly called tnrpeth mineral ; make them into a pill, and place it in the hollow of the tooth some hours before bed-time, wWn a small piece of wax over the top, when it is said never to fail efiect- iuT a complete cure. It was originally communicated, with many other medical receipts, by a learaed physician at York. Tea for the Gout. Take the leaves of carduus benedictus, or the holy thistle, with a sufficient proportion of angelica leaves to make it palatable, but not much of either at a time, and drink half a pint of this infusion made like common tea, rather weak, constantly every morning for twelve months. This is said to have alone relieved several persons who were almost crippled with the gout. The leaves of the blessed thistle, in strong decoction, are generally agreed to be beneficial where there is a loss of appetite, or the stomach has been impaired by irregulari- ties ; and, whether an infusion be made in cold or warm water, it occasions, if drank freely, a copious perspiration, and greatly pro- motes the secretions. The dried leaf, which may be used for making the tea recommended, loses much of that forbidding flavour always possessed by the fresh plant ; and v. hich occasions it to be some- times emjdoyed in strong decoctions, cither as an emetic, or as the auxiliary of an emetic. Infallible Powder for Shortness of Breath. This excellent remedy for shortness of breath is particularly re- commended to young ladies. The powder is thus directed to be made : Take an ounce each of carraway seeds and anniseeds, half an ounce of liquorice, a large nutmeg, a:i ounce of prepared steel and two ounces of double-refined sugar ; reduce the whole into ;. very fine powder, and take as much as will lie on a shilling every morning fasting, and the same quantity at five in the afternoon. It will be requisite to use exercise while taking this medicine, which generally very soon effects a cure. "Where any invincible i)rrjudice against the use of steel exists in the mind, the medicine may be tried without it ; it will even then frequently afiord relief. Excellent Wash fur J\^nmljcd or Tremhling Hands Thesk disagreeable complaints arc said to be soon remedied by the very simple expedient of frequently washing the hands so aflecl- ed in a strong decoction of wo'^nvood and mustard seed; to b« stra'ned, and used when coKl. RECEIPT-BOOK. 23 Mustard }] hey, for a Pahij and JS^ervous Disorders. Tc;:n l.'ulf a pint of boiling iniili, by pulling in a table-spooniiil of made iiHistard. Slriiin the whty tVoiii the cuni, Lhicugh ii .sieve, and drink it in bed. This will give a generoua and glowing warmth, the whey thus convoying the mustard into the constitution. Dr. .Sie[)hen Ilules says, that he knew a woman, who liad a great degree of numb- ness all over her, re.narkably relieved with two doses only, and nun- lions several instances where it has done good in nervous cases, and in palsy, greatly abating the malady and prolonging life. Ingenious French Vegetative Liquid fcr making Bulbous Hoots Jloicer beautifuUii in ornamental Glasses, without Earth, du- ring the U' inter Season. Dissolve, gradually, in a glazed earthen or glass vessel, three ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of common salt, and half an ounce of salt of tartar, with a pint of rain water. AVhen the solution is com[)leted, add half an ounce of loaf sugar; filter the whole through a bag or blotting pa|)er, and keep it bottled for use. Into each flower- glass, filled with rain or river water, are to be put eight or ten drops of this liquid. The glasses must be kept constantly full, and the water renewed every tenth or twelfth day at farthest ; to which must always be added the requisite number of drops of the vegetative li- quor. To ensure complete success, however, the glasses ought to stand on a mantle or chimney-piece where a fire is regularly kept in cold weather. The fibres of the roots must of course always im- bibe the liquid ; and, uith proper management, a fine succession of flowers may be kept up during the most rigorous seasons ; such as crocuses of dilTerent colours, tulips, hyacinths, snow-drops, &c. vlrt of Extracting the inest Carmine Poirder from Clippings of Scarlet Cloth. That incomparable crimson colour, called carmine, which so beautifully particij'ates in the most delicate tints of scarlet and of purple, is so verv expensive, tliat miniature painters are often induced to substitute fi)r carmine a composition of lake ; by the foHouing |)ro- cess, however, it is credibly asserted, that a better carmine riuiy wilh certainty be niaiuifa<, j)iiiliriir in also llie/r rinds ; add a pound of loaf siigai ; and, well .-haliinii; tiic? !)oll!e frcm time to lime, let the whole infuse live days. After this, to renoonfnl taken l\rAy or live successive mornings, is said to kill the worms in children ; iind, on rubbing with iltul sniall quantify the nose and temples fasting, it i? a preservative of the person so using it ai^ainst the ill eil'ects of damp or unwholesome air. In short, this licpior will abundantly satisfy all who may have occasion to use it } and a gentleman having been long alHicted 'with an hepatic flux, which gave him eontinntd torment, the use of this liquor carried it oiY, and completely cured him. Incomparable Method of Saldna; .nlcai, as adopted i\j the late Empress of liusaia. The following method of salting meat is asserted to have been uscu by the great empress Catharine, in her household establishment, with the utmost success : Boil together, over a gentle fire, six pounds of common salt, two pounds of pov.dered loaf sugar, three ounces of saltpetre, and three gallons of spring water. Carefully skim it while boiling; and, when quite cold, pour it over the meat, every part of which must be covered with the brine. In this pickle, it is said, the meat will not only keep for rnaiiy months, but the hardest and toughest beef will thus be rendered as mellov,- anrl tender as the flesh of a yoiing fowl; wliile either beef, |)ork, or even mutton, will have a fine flavour imparted by it. In warm weather, however, the blood must be expressed from, the n)eat, and the whole well rubbed over with fine salt, before it is imn)ersed in the liquor. Young pork should not be left longer than three or four days in this pickle, as it will then be quite sufficiently softened : but hams, intended tor drying, may remain a fortnight before they are hussgup; when they should be rubbed with pollard, and closely covered with paper bags, to prevent their being fly-blov.n. Though this pickle is, at first, somewhat more expensive than common brine, (as it may be again used, on being boiled with additional water and the other ingredients,) ii is far from being, on the whole, importantly more dear ; whilst it seems to promise advantages which most people would be happy to pinchase at a much higher price. Electuary for the Rheumatism., by Dr. Brookes. Take conserve of orange peel, two ounces ; cinnabar of antunonv levigated, half an tiunce ; gum guiacum in powder, one ounce ; ^^ in ter's bark in powder, three drachms ; syrup of orange peel sufticient to make an electuary. The dose three drachms, morning and cvenjnj'. Kr.ci:»rT-i!0()K 27 Art of making the best Black Ink Powder. Infuse a quurfor ofa pound of fineiy powdered nut galls in three pints of rain or river water; expo.sing it, occasionally well stirred, ti» a moderate degree of warmth fur a few days, till the colouring matter seems fully extracted : then fdter the solution into a vessel slightly covered, and place it in the open air tor several weeks : when, on removing the mouldy skin from the top, which has gradually been formed, it must be carefully collected, have hot water poured ovei it, undergo another filtration, and then be evaporated to dryness. Thus will be produced a gray crystalline salt, called the acid salt of galls, and which is the essential basis of black ink. On triturating a single drachm of this salt with an equal quantity of vitriol of iron, and about a pennyweight of the driest gum arabic, a composition will be obtained which afTords an excellent black ink, merely on being dissolved in warm water. Genuine Syrvp for Coughs, Sjjitting of Blood, §-c Tiijs excellent remedy for such frequently very alarming symp- toms, cannot be made too public. " He must," says the learned ajid liberal Dr. Fuller, " be a mere stranger in physic, who is not ac- quainted with this most noble syrup, and how mightily it succours those who cough up blood." It is thus made : Take six ounces of comfrey roots, and twelve handsful of plantain leaves : cut and beat tftem well ; strain out the juice ; and, with an equal weight of sugar, boil it up to a syrup. V^ast advantages of Baking instead of Boiling Beet-Hoot. The beet-root too forcibly intrudes it-elf on the improved sagacity of mankind to be entirely neglected, as a source of cheap and salu. Drious food. The late Dr. Lettsom, some {ew years since, took uncommon pains to recommend a variety of one species of this genus, the German mangel-wurzel, or famine-root, under the ap- pellation of the root of scarcity, or large white beet-root, as an ar- ticle worthy of being universally cultivated. The time, however, seems not yet arrived for the full value of even the more attractive red species to be generally known and duly appreciated ; so that his philanthropic design may be said to have hitherto failed. In speak- ing of the beet-root generally, the red beet-root, therefore, is to be considered as alone designated ; and we are about to ofter a few hints for bringing its modest and humble merits into a little more deserved estimation. The rich saccharine juice of the beet-root is, in a great degree, lost, and the root itself rendered, at once, less nutritious by the adventitious watery weakness which it is made to imbibe, as well as by parting with the native gelatinous syrup, of which it is thus forcibly deprived. It is, therefore, most strongly recommended to adopt the mode of baking beet«roots, instead of boiling them, for general use ; when they will, unquestionably, be found to afTord a very delicious and most wholesome food. This is not ollered as an untried novelty ; neet-roots are universally baked 28 TIJE NEW li'AMILT all over the continent of Europe ; tuid, in Italy ?articularly, they arc carried about, warm from the oven, twice a day, like hot loaves, &c. ill London. They are there purchased by all ranks of people, and niTord to many thousands, with bread and a little salt only, a very satisfactory meal. Remedy for fVind in the Veins. This stale of the veins, though always visible on (he slightest in- spection, often escapes any notice, though it leads to many disorders. The following remedy may be taken \vitli advantage whenever they appear iu a suspicious stale : Take equal quantities of powdered liquorice, carraway seeds, and sugar candy : to which add a third part of rhubarb, and the like quantity of cream of tartar, both finely pulverized. Of this mixture, take a tea-spoonful three or four times a day ; either by itself, or in a glass of wine. It should be continued about a week ; and, being gently laxative, it cools the blood, eases pains, and relieves and prevents many disorders. Best Method of 7naking Sage Cheese. Take the tops of young red sage ; and, having pressed the juice from them i)y beating in a mortar, do the same with the leaves of spin- age, and then mix the two juices together. After putting the rennet to the milk, pour in some of this juice, regulating the quantity by (he degree of colour and taste it is intended to give the cheese. As the curd appears, break it gently, and in an equal manner; then, emptying it into a cheese vat, let it be a little pressed, in order to make it eat mellow. Having stood for about seven hours, salt and turn it daily for foiu* or five weeks, when it will be fit for (he table. The spinage, besides improving the flavour and correcting ihe bitterness of the sage, w'\\\ give it a much moVe pleasing colour than can be ob- tained from sage alone. Sijrup of Ginger. An agreeauie and moderately aromatic syrup, impregnated with the flavour and medicinal virtues of ginger, is thus prepared : Ma- cerate an ounce and a half of beaten ginger in a quart of boilinj; water, closely covered up, fur twenty-four hours : then, straining off the infusion, make it intn a syrup, by adding at least two parts of fine loaf sfigar, dissolved and boiled up in a hot water bath. Wonderful Power of ihe Turkish Glue, or Jlrmeninn Cemcnty with the Jlrt of making it. TiiF, jewellers in Turkey, who are mostly Armenians, according to Mr. Eton, formerly a consul, and author of the Survey of the Turkish Empire, have a singular method of ornamenting watch- cases, &c. with diamonds and other precious stones, by simply glu- ing or cementing tTiem. The stone is set in silver or gold, and the other part of the metal made flat to correspond with the part to which it is to be fixed ; it is then warmed gently, and has the gJue applied, which is so very strong, I'ha the parts con?cnte(* never separate. This RECEiPT-BC :x. 29 glue, which will strongly unite bits of glass, and even polished steel, and may of coarse be applied to a vast variety of ustl'iil purposes, is thus nude: Dissolve tive or six bits of gum nmstich, each the size of a large pea, in as much spirits of wine as will sufl'ice to ren- der it liquid : and, in another vessel, dissolve as much isinglass, pre- viously a little swelled or softened in water, though none of the water must be used, in French brandy or good rum, as will make a two-ounce phial of very strong glue : adding two small bits of gum galbanum, or ammoniacun), which must be rvdibcd or ground till they arc dissolved. Then mix the whole with a sufiicient heat. Keep the glue in a pliial stopped close, and, when it is to be used, set the bottle in hot or boiling water. JMr. Eton observes, that some persons have, in England, prepared and sold this composition under the name of Armenian Cement ; but it is much too thin, and the quantity of mastich in it too small : it must, this gentleman adds, be like strong carpenters' glue. This certainly is cue of the most valual)!e known cements in the world. Nor is it at all improbable, that a plan, said to have been invented in France or Germany, for making up clothes, &c. by uniting cloth without sewing, in some at- tempt founded on the use of this very cement ; with what ultimate success, we must leave time to develope. In the mean while, there can be no sort of doubt, that much may be eflected by ingenious applications of so powerful an agent. Fahiahle Secret in preparing Foil for Diamonds, and other jirecious Stones, as used by the Armenian Jewellers. The method of preparing the rich foils in which the Armenian jewellers set precious stones, particularly diamonds, to much advan- tage, and which, under roses or half-brilliants, is most remarkably beautiful, and not subject to t?irnish, is generally kept as a great se- cret ; and such foils, Mr. Eton assures us, sells' at Constantinople for from half to three-quarters of a dollar each. The mode of pre- paring them is extremely simple. An agate is cut, and highly po- lished, of ihe shape desired ; a cavity of about its own size is next f)rmed in a block of lead, and over this cavity is placed a bit of tin, the thickness of strong brown paper, scraped very bright. The agate is then placcd'on the lin, over the cavity, and stiuck with a mallet; when the beautiful polish which the tin instantly receives, is scarcely to be imagined by those who have never seen it. Easy method of Dying Cotton u'ith J\Iadder, as practised at Smyrna. Cotton, at Smyrna, Mr. Eton tells us, is dyed with madder in the following manner : The cotton is boiiuJ in common olive oil, and then in mild alkali; being thus cleaned, it will take the mad- der dye : and this is the fine colour so greatly admired in Smyrna cotton-yarn. " I have heard," adds this gentleman, " that the sum of live th >usand pounds was given in England for this secret !" It is doubtless, a secret in pre|)aring cottons, and perhaps otlser articles. for iue reception of a particular dye, very well worth knowing 50 THK NEW FAMU.T The Duchess of Mnrlhoroiiff^h's admirable JVaterfor Thicktit iiicr thp. JIiiii\ and to prevent its falling oJJ\ Tins iHDst rxc(!ll(!iit u'litoi- fi)r tlio li;iir is produced in the .oUow- iii;,' iiuiMner : r'istil, as cool and slowly as possible, two pounds ol honey, a handful of rosemary, and twelve handsful of the curlings or tendrils of grape-vines, infused in a gallon of new milk, from which about two quirts tif the water will be obtained. Celebrated French Worm Medicine for Dog This medicine has the reputation of effectually killing and ex- pelling the worms with which dogs are often so grievously tor- mented, and which, probably, may be one grand cause of their running mad. It is thus made : Take, for one dose, which generally proves suiRcicnt, two drachms ea^i of juice of wormwood, aloes, and staves-acre, the two last powdered as small as possible; with one drachm each of pounded burnt hartshorn and sul()hur. Mix the whole together in nut oil, to the quantity of aboi-* half a glass, which must be given to the dog for a dose. If at all necessary, another dose may be given a day or tv.o after. Superior Use of the celebrated German Tinder, and great Im- portance of its being universally adopted. On the continent of Europe, every traveller, sportsman, &c. car- ries constantly this tinder about him, which is conveniently portable, and resembles a piece of soft and very thick tanned leather, of elas- tic substance, and a sort of velvet surface on the upj)er part. It is, in fact, a large fungus, commonly called punk, which grows at the roots of old trees, where it spreads t» a considerable size. This substance is dressed, l;ammered, and otherwise manufactured for the pin-pose, into this appearance, and, being dried, forms the true German tinder at all times ready for use, and far less liable to be- come damp than English tinder. The manner of using it is by tearing off a small bit, which will serve several times, and holding it at the edge of the flint, which is smote by the steel, instead of the steel by the flint. In this the Germans are so expert, and can so well rely on their tinder, that they will engage to light it at a single stroke, and, indeed, seldom fail to do so. The tinder being thua kindled, may be placed in a pipe of tobacco, or extinguished iii- sfantlv between the finger and thumb, after lighting a match for this or any other purpose. It is always kept in a pouch or box, with a flint, steel, and short German matches ; and few persons are much from home without carrying them constantly in their pockets. If the German tinder were to be manufactured in England, many poo' persons might bo employed in collecting the puidv, which is nov/ suffered to rot without utility ; and, could it be brou^dit entirely tc prevent the destruction of rags for tinder, a quantity far exceeding what may be generally imagined, il might pr 3 X' llic means of creoll)i ass'sting the manufacture of paper. KFCF.IPT-ROOIC. •) i To make a Powder, by which ijini ratty write with water. BiiuiSK (0 powder ;i liarKlful of galls, h:ilf a:i ounce of vitriol, an ounce of gwn atabic atid gum sandrick. Mingle thetu iinely sifted together, then rub your paper with a little of it laid upon cotton wool; an J, having smootiied it, take water, and write upon the pa- per ; thci. suffering it to dry, it will bo black. Turkish Method of Filtering Water by Ascension. The process is this : They make two wells, from five to '.en feet, or any other depth, at a small distance from each other, witi'' a com- munication between the two at their bottoms. The separation is of clay well beaten, or other substances impenetrable by water. IJ"oth wells are then filled with sand and gravel. The opening of the well mto which the water to be filtered runs, is made somewhat higher than that into wliich it is to ascend ; nor does the sand of this latter approach the brim, where there is either sufficient room left for all the filtered water, or it is drawn oif by a spout run into a vessel piacedfor that purpose. The greater the difference is between the height of the two wells, the faster the water filters ; but the less it is, the better it operates, provided a sufficient quantity of water be sup- plied by it for the intended purpose. This, Mr. Kton observes, may be practised in a cask, tub, jar, or other vessel, and would be use- ful on board of ships : t'ae water being conveyed to the bottom by a pipe, and the lower end having in it a sponge, or the pipe might be filled with coarse sand. It is evident, that all such particles as, by their gravity, are carried down w filtration by descent, will not rise with the water in filtration by ascension. From this account, it should seem, that the principle of filtration by ascent, considered as a new discovery by so;ne ingenious Europeans, has been long known to the Turks. Mr. Peacock'' s Patent Alachine for Purifying and Filtering the foulest icaier. The utility of filtering machines, in the different processes of brewing, distillery, and dying, as well as that of making bread, and all other domestic arts, is sufTicien'.ly obvious. The filtering ma- chin(5 of Mr. Peacock has been contrived and composed with a com- bination of skill and simplicity which is seldom witnessed. The turbid fluid is poure-d into a vessel, with layers of sifted gravel or small pebbles, in different gradations of size, at the botton, and con- nected somewhat like the Turkish filtering wells, with a similar vessel, with like strata or layers, in progressive degrees of fineness, through which the water, however foul, on its entrance into the first vessef, now rises clear and pure in this. Had Mr. Peacock, who is one of the first architects in the world, been a poor or a mercenary man, this invention mi ;ht have obtained him a large fortune : but, being neither one nor the other, though this gentleman secured his ri'i^ht by patent, and he was only 3 )licitou3 of its being adopted from phiUjuthrr 5 mjtivos, ad hn probably lost more monej 32 'HF, NF.W FAMILY tl»;m he has gained by t.ie invention. Wlien its use hccomes 6a\y appreciated, some future maniifacfnrer of Mr. Peacock's filtering macliines mny probably reap the advantage. A specimen of his niacliine is deposited in Guildhall, London, and, tiiough capable of yielding a conslp^t an*.' pure stream of three hinidred gallons in twenty-four hours, it does not occupy more room than a common large drip or filtering stone, with all its accompanying apparatus : that nothing may be wanting to its |)erfectioti, it is easily cleansed, though seldom necessary, in the sliort space of a single minute. Nothing, therefore, is easier than for brewers, distillers, dyers, Ie. An intinitudc of facts altt-st its wonderful ef- fects. It is thus directed to be prepared : Take about a quart of the best-sifted and well-washed oats, and a small handfvd of wild succory roots newly drawn out of the earth ; boil them gently in six quarts of river water for three-quarters of an hour, and then add half an ounce of crystal mineral, and three or four spoonsful of the best honey, or a quarter of a pound of it in weight. Let the whole now boil half an hour longer; then strain it through linen, put the liquid n an earthen vessel, and leave it covered to cool. For persons of a bilious habit, only half the quantity of honey should be used, as the eweetness has a tendency to increase the bile. Two good glasses of this ptisan should be drardc every morning fasting, without eating my thing for some houi-s : and the same quantity three liours aftcj 34 THE NKW FAMILY dinner. This course must be condiiued for lourteeu days, without bleeding or conlineineiit, or lakinu broth, uew-hiid eggs, or any olhei piulicndar diet, but in all respects livisig as usual. The weak and iiilirm*nccd only take a single glass, and they will not fail to feel the jiood elfect. It is natural that persops who are too gross and costive should commence with some previous purgative ; after which thie remedy will prove more etficacious. This ptisan is easy to take, and pleasant in its operations ; not occasioning any griping pains or other disagreeable sensations : at the same time, it perfectly cleanses till! reins, is very diuretic, greatly promoi.es expectoration ; purges the brain ; cleanses the lungs, the liver, and the spfeen ; expels pu- trid aiii! ma'ignant humours, all pain tVom t!;e litad, gravel, and even stone when newly formed j cures tertian and quiirtan agues, how- ever inveterate ; all colics and pleurisies ; the itch, blotches, and other foul eruptions ; and, in short, every kind of heaviness, lassi- tude, and general debility. It rouses the senses, clears the sight, excites appetite, and gives rest and sleep. It refreshes, feeds, and conveys perfect health ; and even seems still sensibly operating, and doing good, for a month or two after it has been taken. It is, beside all this, very nourishing. Instead of weakening, as is the case with the greater part of other remedies, it absolutely strengthens : and, during the dog-days anottle is to remain open a quarter of an hour, and then be corked for use. One end of a common match being put into a bottle thus prepared, on touching the phosphorus, and being suddenly drawn out,- will be with certainty liilhted. As there can be no particular danger of accidental fire from the use of these bottles; and, wiih reasonable care in using them, and keeping them closely stopped, a single bottle would last a considerable time, and might, were the demand general, be replen- ished at a most triding expewse : it may, possiltly, in the hands of somo ingenious and enterprising person, be finally made to super- sede the tinder-box, that dreadful consumer of rags, and consequent enemy to the manuficture of paper. I'hos; horus is one of those grand discoveries of modern times, the chici utilities of which seera to he reserved for ? *'uUire and wiser age. .*J6 THK NKW lAMILY Sj)ecificalions of Lord William Murray'' s Patent jor extracting Starch from Horse Chesnvts. The jjatent for ihis ustTul invention and discovery is dated March 8, 179C ; of course the exclusive privilege of extracting starch from horse chesnuts in llie following manner was confined to the patentee till the expiration of fourteen years. We shall present our curious readers \\iv.\ the mode of preparing this starch in his lordship's own words, extracted frou. the specification in the Patent Office : " I first take the horse chesnuts out of the outnard green prickly husks ; and then, either by hand, with a knife or other tool, or else with a mill adapted for that purpose, I very carefully pare off the brown rind : being particular not to leave the smallest speck, and to entirely eradicate the sprout or growth. I next take the ruits, and rasp, grate, or grind, them line into wafer : either by hand, or by a mill adapted for that purpose. The pulp, which is thereby formed in that water, I wash as clean as possii)le through a coarse hair sieve ; and then, again, through a still finer ; constantly adding clean water, to pre- vent any starch from adhering to the pulp. The last process is, to put it, with a large quantity of water, about four gallons to a pound of starch, through a fine gauze, muslin, or lawn, so as entirely to clear it of all bran, or other impurities. As soon as it settles, I pour off the water, and then mix it up with clean ; repeating this opcralion till it no longer imparts any green, yellow, or other colour, to the water. I then drain it off, till nearly dry ; and set it to bake, either in the usual mode of baking starch, or else spread out before a brisk fire ; being very attentive to stir it frequently, to prevent its horning ; that is to say, turning to a paste or jelly, which, on being dried, turns hard like horn. The whole process shoidd be conducted as quick as possible. The utility of this invention requires no comment Should it come into general use, not only a vast consumption or wheat flour must be saved ; but, from the necessity of planting more chesnut trees, for the sake of a fruit hilherto considered as of no sort of value, much of that excellent and beaulifLd wood will be pro- duced for the many purjjoses to which it is applicable. Patent Potato Composition to he used instead of Yeast. For this ingenious contrivance, which introduces polatos as a aort of leaven for making wheaten bread, a patent was (jbtained by the inventor, Mr. Richard Tillycr Blunt, in the year 17S7; which, of course, is now expired. The following is the process for this purpose, as described by Mr. Blunt in his specification : To make a yeast gallon of this composition, such yeast gallon containing eight beer quarts, boil in conunon water eight pounds of potatos as for eating ; bruise them perfectly smooth ; and mix with them while warm, two ounces of honey, or any other sweet, and one beer quart of common yeast. For making bread, mix three beer pints of the above composition with a bushel of flour, using warm wafer m making the bread. The water . : be warmer in winter than in nummer, and the co Mposition to be ised in a few hours after it is RECEIPT-BOOK. 37 Giado : and, as soon as the sponge, or the laixture of the composi- tion with the (lour, begins to fall the first time, the bread should be made, and put in the oven. Britannic Elastic f!uin. For the invention of this curious and „seful composition, a i)aten( was obtained, in the year 17S1, by Mr. Albert Angel : who describe? it, in his specification, as being very serviceable and useful in the several branches of portrait and house painting, by making the co- lours durable and free from peeling ; as of great utility in gilding, painting, penciling, and staining of silks, calicos, &c. and in dress- ing silk, linen, and cotton, in the loom, instead of gum or paste, so as to strengthen the threads of the finest cottons ; as excellent for beautifying and fixing the colours on paper, equal to that done in India ; as of the greatest use for rendering the clay, or composi- tion, used in modeling, suHiciently supple, and preventing its drying too fast ; and, lastly, not less eftectual in causing a transparency of colours fit for china and earthen ware, so as to stand baking or burn- ing. This Britannic gum is stated to be prepared in the following very simple manner : Put into an iron kettle, and melt down to- gether, till the mixture become this composition or elastic gum, a gallon of linseed or nut oil, a pound ot" yellow or bleached bees' wax, six pounds of glue or size, a quarter of a [)Ound of verdigreasc, a quarter of a pound of litharge, a'ld two quarts of spring or ram water. JVest India Bitters, or Ant'i- Bilious Drops. Thk following is said to have been T )usaint's, late Emperor of Flayti, celebrated bitters, called by him anti-bilious drops, and used generally throughout the West India islands : Take three drachms of Seville orange peel ; two drachms of gentian root ; one drachm each of cardamoms, grains of paradise, and gallengals ; half a drachm each of nutmeg and cloves ; one scruple each of saffron and cochi- neal ; and half a handful each of camomile flowers and Roman wormwood. Infuse the whole in two quarts of brandy, rum, or Madeira v/inc ; and, after it has stood some time, pour oif what is clear, and add to the ingredients a quart more of either liquor, though brandy is considered as best for the purpose. This, too, having re- mained a somewhat longer time, and been occasionally shaken, may be in like manner poured off for use. 'I\vo tea-spoonsful, or some- what less, are directed to be taken, an hour before dinner, in half a glass of wine. Oxymel of Garlic for Asthmatic Complaints, Rheumatism, fyc. N a general sense, oxymels are any compositions of honey and vinegar boiled to the consistence of a syrup. Simple oxymel, for example, is merely clarified honey melted in an equal weight of wa- ter, with the addition of as much vinegar as water, boiled to the con- sistence of a syrup, and even this, taken about half an ounce at a time, is said to att?nuate gross h'i"ic "s, carry awav slimy matter, 38 THE NKW fAMILT open old stoppages and oljstructions of the It ngs, and remove phlegm, with whatever else occasions shortness cf breath. In the humid asthnu', for promoling expectoration and the fluid cecretions, &c. the oxymel of garlic seems to stand in still higher estimation with the faculty It is thus made: Boil, in a pint of vinegar, half an ounce of cleansed carraway and sweet fennel seeds, for about a quarter of an hour ; then take it off the fne, slice in three ounces o( garlic, and cover it closely up. As .;oon as it becomes cold, the li- quor must be strained and expressed ; and mixed, by the heat of a water bath, with a pound and a quarter of clarified honey, to a pro- per syrupy consistence. A tea-spoonful or two of this oxymel, taken occasionally, particularly night and morning, will scarcely ever fail of proving beneficial to all persons afflicted with an asthma. It is also frequently serviceable in rheumatic complaints, especially when as- sisted by warm embrocations. The Honourable J\lr. Charles IJamilton^s Method of TtiaJiino Grape fiines, fully equal to Champaio-n and Old Hock, from the jPruit of his beautiful Vineyard at Paints Hill, in Surry, England. The vineyard belonging to Pain's Hill, one of the finest country residences in the united kingdom, is situated on the south side of a gentle hill, the soil being gravelly sand. It is planted entirely w ith two sorts of Burgundy grapes : the Avcrnat, which is the most de- licate and tender ; and the miller's grape, originally so named frora the powdered whiteness on the leaves in the spring, called in Eng- land the Black cluster or Burgundy grape. We shall give, in the Honourable Mr. Hamilton's own words, his valuable account of the process pursued, and its successful effect : " The first year I attempt- ed to make wine in the usual way, by treading the grapes ; then let- ting them ferment in the vat till all the husks and impurities formed a thick crust at the top, the boiling ceased, and the clear wine w as drawn ofl* from the bottom. This essay did not answer. The wine was so very harsh and austere, that I despaired of ever making rea wine fit to drink ; but, through that harshness, I perceived a flavour something like that of small French white wines, which made me hope I should succeed better with white wine. 'I hat experimeiit succeeded far beyond my most sanguine expectations, for, the very first year I made white wine, it nearly resenibled the flavour of Champaign ; and, in two or three years more, as the wjuq grew stron- ger, to my great amazement, my wine had a finer flavour than ihe best Cham])aign I ever tasted. The first running was as clear as spiiits ; the second running was (pildc per drix, or partridge-eye .co- lour ; and both sparkled and creamed in the glass like Champaign. It would be endless to mention how many good judges of wine wera deceived by my wine, and thought it su[ierior to any Champaign they had ever dratdc. Even the Duke de ]\Iirepolx preferred it to any other wine. But, such is the prejudice of some people against any thing of English growth, I generally foimd it most prudent not to de clare where it grew till after they passe J their verdict on it. Thp RECEIPT-BOOK. 39 (Surest proof [ can give of its excellence is, that I have sold it to win© merchants for fifty guineas a hojf.shcad ; and one wine tnerciiant, to whom [ sold five liundred pounds worth at one time, assured me he sold some of the best of it from seven shillings and sixpence to ten shillings per bottle. After many yoar.-i experience, the best method 1 found of managing it was this : I let the grapes hang, till they had got a'.l the maturity the season would give them ; then they were carefully cut off with scissors, and brought home to the wine barn in small quantities to prevent their breaking or pressing one another. The:i, they were all picked olFthe stalks, and all the mouldering or green ones discarded, before they were committed to the press ; where they were aJl pressed in a few hours after they were gathered. Much would run from them, before the press squeezed them, from their own weight on one another. This running was as clear as water, and as sweet as syrup ; and all of the first pressing, and part of the second, continued white : the other pressings grew reddish, and were not mixed with the best. As fast as the juice run from the press into a large receiver, it was put into the hogsheads, and closely bunged up. In a few hours, one woold hear the fermentation begin ; which would soon burst the casks, if not guarded again by hooping them strongly with iron, and securing them in strong wooden frames, and the heads with wedges. In the heii;ht of the fermen- tation, I have frequently seen the wine oozing through the pores of the staves. These hogsheads were left all the depth of winter in the cold barn, to have the benefit of the frost. When the fermen- tation was over, which was easily discovered by the cessation of the noise and oozing, (but, to be more certain, the pegging the cask showed when it would be quite clear,) then it was racked off into clean hogsheads, and cariied to the vaults, before any warmth of weather could raise a second fermentation. In March the hogsiieads were examined. If they were not quite fine, they were fined down with common fish glue or isinglass, in the usual manner ; those which were fine of themselves were not fined down. All were bot- tled about the end of March ; and, in about six weeks more, would be in perfect order for drinking, and would be in their prime for above one year : but, the second year, the flavour would abate ; and would gradually decline, till it lost all flavour and sweetness. Some, lliat I kept sixteen years, became so like Old Hock, that it might pass for such to one who was iKJt a perfect connoisseur. The only art I ever used to it was, putting three pounds of white sugar-candy to some of the hogsheads, when the wine was first tunned from the !^ress ; in order to conform to a rage tliut prevailed, to drink none but very sweet Champaign.'' In the astonishing success of this pro- cess, we see demonstrated how little assistance from art is required by nature, provided that little be judiciously ap^died. drt of Extracting Spots of Grease, Tallow, Oil, S/c. from Fc- luable Books, Prints, and Papers of all Sorts, without thi smallest Injury to the. Printing or JVriting. The frequencj of such accidents as spot with grease valuabUi 40 THE NEW FAMILY priiifed books, p..ints, ledgers, and other account books, as wcK aa letters and wriiirgs of all descriptions, renders the method of rcntoy< ing lliem to their pristine purity of appearance an article of no littla importance. For this purpose, the following is the exact process : Having in readiness some common blotting paper, gently warm the si)()lled part of the book, or other article damaged by grease, tallow, or oil ; and, as it melts, take u|) as much as possible, by repca'.ed applications of fresh bits of the blotting paper. When no more can thus be imbibed, dip a small U-ush in the essential oil of well-rectified spirit of turpentine heated almost to a boiling state ; and wet with it both sides of the paper, which should also be at the same time a lit- tle warm. This operation must be repeated till all the grease be ex- tracted : when another brush, dipped in highly rectified spirit of wine, being passed over the same part, the spot or spots will entirely dis- appear, and the paper re-assume its original whiteness, without de- triment of any sort to the paper, or any printed or written characters previously impressed thereon. Blaikie^s Patent Suhstitiite for Gum, in thickening Colours for Calico Printers, ^c. This useful article is thus described by Mr. Francis Blaikie of (xlasgow, the patentee, in his specification : The gum substitute, to thicken colours for linen and calico printing, and making up or furnishing printers' colour tubs, and which may also be applied to several other uses, is prepared by boiling any quantity of flax-seed in a sufficient quantity of water, till the whole substance be extract- ed ; and, having strained it through a linen or woollen cloth, again boiling down the liquor to the consistence of a jelly. This is to be kept in a close vessel ; and, for preservation, to have a little stj-ong spirits put in, or some sweet oil poured on the top. It might, how- ever, be preserved with bitters. The printer, in using this substitute, may either put a certain quantity into a gallon of colour, according to the nature of it, and the particular kind of work to be done, and regulate himself by trial, as is common in using gum, or reduce the substitute by boiling it in water to the consistence (hat may be foimd requisi-le. French JSlethod of Making Garlic Vinegar. This, which is one of the favourite French vinegars, is thus sim- ply made : Steep an oimce of garlic in two quarts of the best white- wine vinegar, wiih a nutmeg soaked and cut in bits, and about a do- zen cloves. Fine Tarragon Finegar. The peculiar and agreeable spicy warmth which this slightly- bitter herb, the x\rte;nesia dracuuculus of the Linmean system, com- municates to vinegar, makes it much used for that purpose, as well as in salads, soups, &c. throughout P^ur /pe. In Spain, and the Bouth of France, it g-ows naturally to great perfection; and it flourishes in the soil of uv English gardens, where it flowers in July, and pr );laces ripe seed ; in autumn. The best way oif making RECEIPT-BOOK. 41 tatTftgon vinegar is, by putting a quantity of the fresh leaves loost-ly into ajar, and then filling it up with vinegar to the height first occu- pied by the leaves ; if, for example, the jar must be thus apparently filled, there will be still room enough for the proper quantity of vinegar. After it has thus remained two or three weeks, chiefiy in the sun or other warm situation, it may be strained off", and passed through a cotton or flannel jelly-bag ; and, if not s jfficiently fine for putting up n bottles, is to be citvired in the usual way, cither by means of isinglass or a little ahim water. It is commonly kept in large bottles, which should be well corked, and placed in a dry situation. As tar- ragon is strongly recommended to be eaten with lettuce, this vinegai may in some measure supply khe place of the herb : as a corrector of coldness, it is also advisable to be used with cucumbers, &c. The famous Evelyn says, that tarragon is not only highly cordial, but friendly to the head, heart, anc. liver, and a great corrector of the weakness of the ventricle. Vinegar of Roses. This fine and beautiful vinegar is made by pouring the best white wine vinegar into a jar or bottle loosely filled with rose leaves, and letting it remain and be treated exactly after the same manner as the tarragon ; putting, however, into each bottle, a lump of refined sugar. Precisely in this way are also to be made vinegars of gilly-flowers, elder-flowers, &c. Cheap and excellent Blue Colour for Ceilings, ^-c. Boil, slowly, for three hours, a pound of blue vitriol, and half a pound of the best whiting, in about three quarts of water : stir it frequently while boiling, and also on taking it off" the fire. When it has stood till quite cold, pour oft' the blue liquor; then mix the cake of colour with good size, and use it with a plasterer's brush in the same inannty- as white-wash, either for walls or ceilings. Composition for cleaning Marble Hearths, Chimney Pieces, Jllahastt-', 4t- Mix finely pulverized pun)ice stone with verjuice, somewhat more than suificieut to rover it ; and, after it has stood an hour or more, dip a sponge iu the composition, rub it well over the marble or ala- baster which requires cleaning, wash it oft" with warm water, and dry it with clean linen or cotton cloths. Jlrt of Manvfacturing the fine lied and Yellow Morocco Leather, as practised inCrim Tartary. The celebrated Tour of Mrs. Guthrie, in Taurida, or the Crimea, .ommonly called Crim Tartary, which was made by that lady in 1795 and 1796, furnishes the particulars of this interesting article. In the city of Karasubazar, Mrs. Guthrie informs us, there is an ancient manufactory of I>Iorocco leather, v.here great quantity are prepared with the skins of the numerous flocks of Tauric goatg. The process is thus desci!bed : After steeping the rawhides in cold water foi twenty-four hours to free them iVom the blood and othei- impurities 42 THK NKW KAMII-y the flesliy parts arc scrnpcd ofT with projicr iiistnimeiits ; when tiicy are macerated for ten days in (old lime water, to loosen the hair, which is likewise scraped oH'as clean as possible. Bein;if then soak- ed in cold common water for fifteen days, they are trod or worked luider foot in a succession of fresli waters ; till, at length, an admix- ture of do;i;'s dung being addt;d, they receive a second scraping, and are drained of their himiidity. They next proceed to what they de- nominate feeding the skins, by steeping them four days in a cold in fusion of wheat bran ; and then in a decoction of twenty-eight poimda of honey to live pails of water, cooled to the temperature of milk from tlie cow. After remaining thus steeped the same period, they are put into a vessel with holes at ihe bottom, and pressed till all the liquid hits escaped. Lastly, they are steeped, for another four days in a sliglit solution of salt and water, one pound only to five pails, when the leather is (juite ready for the reception of the dye. A strong decoction of Artemisa annua, or southernwood, in the pro- portion of four pounds to ten pails of water, seems to be the basis of all the different colours which they give to the Morocco in the Taurida, Astracan, and the other cities formerly belonging to the Turkish empire, where the secret has till now remained. When a red colour is required, one pound of powdered cochineal is gradually stirred into ten pails of the fine yellow decoction of Artemisa, with five or SIX drachms of alum spread on th.e leather, in a proper ves scl. They are next worked under foot, in an infusion of oak leaves in warm water, till they become supple and soft ; when they are finished, by being rinsed in cold water, rubbed over with olive oil, and calendered w itii wooden rollers. Yellow Morocco leather is dyed with a ctonger decoction of Artemisa, twenty pounds to Mir^ '*''« of water ; nothing being added, but two pounds of powdered amn,, which is gradually introduced, by half a table spoonful at a ... c. Ilach skin is twice stained, previously to the final operations of od- ing an-d calendering. It is also necessary to remark, that the skins are prepared in a somewhat diflerent mode for the yellow Morocco leather, than for the red. Neither honey nor salt is used ; but, in- stead of the decoction of honey, immediately after the skins are taken out of the wheat bran infusion, they are steeped two days in an infusion of oak leaves : after which, they are next rinsed in cold water, and thus made ready for staining yellow. Mrs. Guthrie can- didly acknowledges, tliat the above is all the certain information which she has been able to obtain on this curious subject ; as she could by no means depend on the vague reports which she had heard relative to the colouring matter added f"or staining the green and blue kinds. It may, however, be presumed, that the light, which this lady has thrown on the process of dyin; Morocco leather in ge- neral, will sufliciently guide our manufa' turers to a judicious search after those particular but inferior (bjec' i, which yet remain undis- covered. Furkish Rouge ; or, Secret of the Seraglio for making an admirable Carmine. Infuse, for three or four days, ii ■^ bottle of the finest white winp KKCK JPT-BOOIC. * 43 TlDegar, half a pound of FornaHiboiirir Biasil \voc>d, of a golden red colour, well pDunded in a mortar. JJoil th<3in together halfan hoi:, strain them through linon, and [)lace the h.juid again over the rtrti. In the mean time, having dissolved a quarter of a pound of alum in a pint of white wine vinegar, mix the two liquids, and stir them wcE together with a spatula. The scum which now arises, on being carerully taken ofF and gradually dried, will prove a most beautilul delicate, and perfectly inuflensive, rouge or carmine. Pu"ified Synip of jMolasses. In many parts of the continent of Europe, a method has for some years been successfully practised, on a large scale, of divesting mo- lasses, vulgarly called trea -le, of its peculiar mawkish and unplea- sant taste, so as to render it, for many pm'i)oses, little less usel'u] and pleasant than sugar. Indeed, unless it be for cordials mi\e(l with spices, or in domestic dishes where milk is an ingredient, it may very generally be substituted for sugar. The process for thus pre- paring it is sufficiently simple, and by no means expensive : Boil twelve |>ounds of molasses, with three pounds of coarsely-pounded charcoal, in six quarts of water, over a slow fire. After the mixture has been stirred together, and sinmiered for at least half an hour, decant it into a deep vessel ; and, when the charcoal has subsided, pour off the liquid, and again place it over the fire, that the super- fluous water may eva])orate, and restore the syrup to about its ori- ginal consistence. Thus refined, it will produce twelve pounds of a mild and good syrup, proper for use in many articles of food, &;c. Art of preparing a fine lied Lake from Dutch JMadder. The use of madder, in dying a fine red colour, and also as a first tint for several other shades, has long rendered it famous among dyers ; and, by the following process, it will afi'ord a permanent lake of a fine red, applicable to every purpose of painting : Dissolve two ounces of the purest alum in three quarls of dislillod water previously boiled in a clean glazed vessel, and again set over the fire. ^Vith- draw the solution as soon as it begins to simmer, and add to it two ounces of the best Dutch maddci ; then, boiling it up once or twice, remove it from the fire, and filtc it tlireugh clean white paper. Let the liquor thus filtered stand all .light to subside ; and. next day, pour the clear flmd into the glazed vessel, heat it over llie fire, and gradually add a strained solution of salt of tartar, till the madder be •vbolly precipitated. The mixture nuist now be again filtered, and ^(»|lin<•• distilled water be poured <>n the red powd-sary, but - dry the lake, which will be of a deep red colour. If two parts of madder be \\.'"f*ed. Clarified. Goose Grease. GoosK ,'^rease is a valuable but neglected artu-fe in most famiMes j and, when projierl ".larified, forms a most del'-iate basis for man ^A ' THE NEW FAMILY culinary purposes. This is easily efTected by the .'•oHowing simple process : On drawing a goot-e, separate all (he internal fat, and put it l)\ in a basin. When the <:o()sc is roasted, carefully preserve the dripping separated from (he gravy, &c. which is most ellectually done on its getting quite cold. The sooner this is put in a saucepan, with the raw fat, accompanied by a small onion having three cloves stuck into it, the better. Heing gently simmered, press it with a wooden spoon till the whole be melted ; then, having well scummed it, pass it through a sieve, into ajar capable of containing whatever (pianli(y is likely to be thus added during the season. A moderate use of this article will render many dishes inconceivably savoury, particularly rice, thick soups, force-meats, &c. It should be served out with a wooden spoon ; and, if kept in a cool place, properly co- vered, will continue sweet and good the year round. Composition fo}- licstoring scorched Linen. The fi)llowing composition will be found completely to restore linen which has been scorched in ironing, or by hanging too near tne fire, &c. accidents that too frequently occur ; and, hitherto, without any efiectual remedy : Boil to a good consistency, in half a pint o* vinegar, two ounces of fullers' earth, an ounce of hen's dung, nalt' an ounce of cake soap, and the juice of two onions. Spread tnis composition over the whole of the damaged part ; and, if the scorcn- ing were not quite through, and the threads actually consumed, aiter sufTering it to dry on, and letting it receive a subsequent good wash- ing or two, the place will appear full as white and perfect as any other part of the linen. Easy French Method to prevent Bacon from becoming Rusty. When the bacon has been salted about a fortnight, put it in a box the size of the flitches or pieces to be preserved, on a good bedding of hay : and wrap each piece round entirely with hay, placing also a layer between every two flitches or pieces. The box must, of course, he closed, to keep out rats, Ike. In this slate, it w ill continue as good as at first, and without (he possibility of getting rusty, for much lon- ger than a year, as has frequently been experienced. It must, how- ever, be kept in a place free from damp. Best Saxon Bine. INIix an ounce of the best powdered indigo with ibur ounces of oil of vitriol, in a glass body, and digest it for an hour with the heat of boiling water, frequently shaking the mixture. Then add three quarters of a pint of water ; stir the whole well together ; and, when cold, filter i\ This produces a very r'ch deep blue colour ; if wanted paler, more water must be added. The heat of boiling water, which is sufficient for this operation, can never spoil the colour. By pre- viously digesting (he indigo in a large quantity of spirit of wme, dry ing it, and then using it as above, a still finer blue may be produced ; bu tais is not or ^n judged necessary, except for very fine paintings. RECEIPT-BOOK 45 /%« Reverend Mr. Cartwrighfs Account of the Wonderfv^ Ejjicacy of Yea.it in the Cure of Putrid Diseases. The foiiowing account of the Reverend Mr. Cartwright's first discover)', and subsequent experience, of the good effects of ad- ministering yeast in putrid sore throats, fevers, &c. cannot be too generally made known : — " Several years ago," says this gentleman, for we shall transcribe verbatim his own highly interesting narrative, " I went to reside at Brampton, a very populous village near Ches- tertield. I had not been there many months before a putrid fever broke out among us ; and, finding by far the greater number of my new parishioners much too poor to afford themselves medical assistance, I undertook, by the help of such books on the subject of medicine as were in my possession, to prescribe for them. I early attended a boy about fourteen years of age, who was attacked by this fever ; he h:ul not been ill many days, before the symptoms were unequivocally putrid. I then administered bark, wine, and such other remedies as my books directed. My exertions, however, were of no avail : his disorder grew every day more untraclable and malignant, so that 1 was m hourly expectation of his dissolution. Being under the abso- lute necessity of taking a journey, before Iset off I went to see him, as 1 thought for the last time ; and I prepared his parents for the event of his death, which I considered as inevitable ; reconciling them, in the best manner I was able, to a loss which I knew they wouid teel severely. While I was in conversation on this distressing subject with his mother, I observed, in a corner of the room, a small tub of wort working. The sight brought to my recollection an ex- perunent I had somewhere met with, of a piece of putrid meat being made sweet by suspending it over a tub of wort in the act of fermentation. The idea instantly flashed into my mind, that thi yeast might correct the putrid natme of this disease : and I instantly gave him two large spoonsful, telling the mother, if she found her son better, to repeat this dose every three hours. I then set out on my journey. On my return, after a few days, I anxiously inquired about the boy, and was informed he had recovered. I could not re- press my curiosity. Though I was greatly fatigued with my journev, and night was come on, I went directly to where he lived ; which was three miles off, in a wild part of the moors. The boy himself opened the door ; looked sui-])risingly well ; and told me, that ho felt better from the instant he took the yeast. After I left Brampton, F lived in Leicestershire ; and, my parishioners being there few and op\ilcnt, I dropped entirely my medical character, and would not even prescribe for any of my own family. One of my domestics fulling ill, accordingly the apothecary was sent for. The servant's complaint was a violent fever ; which, in its progress, became putrid. Having great reliance, and deservedly, on the apothecary's penetra- tion and judgment, the man was left solely to his management. His disorder, however, kept daily gaining ground : till, at length, the apothecary considered him in very great danger. At last, finding every effort to be of service to him baffled, he told me, he consi- dered it as a lost case ; for, in his opinion, the man could not survive /If) THE SEW FAMILY four and twenty hours. On tlie apotliecary thus giving hirn up, 1 determined to try the efiecis of yciist, and gave him two large tea- Hpoonsful. In fifteen minutes from taking it, liis pul^e, tliough still feeble, began to gel composed and full ; and, in tliirly-two minutes from taking tiie yeast, he was^hle to get up from his bed, and walk in his room. At the expiration of the second hour, I gave him a basin of sago, with a good deal of lemon wine, and ginger in it, and he ate it with appetite. In another hour, I repealed the yeast ; an lour afterward, 1 ga-'e him the bark ; and, the next hour, he had food. He had, next, another dose of yeast ; and then went to bed, being nine o'clock. I went to him next morning, at six o'clock ; when he told me he had had a good night, and was recovered. I, how- ever, repeated his medicine, and he was able to go about his busi- ness as usual. A year alter this, as I was riding past a detached farm-liouse at the outskirl- of the village, 1 observed the farmer's tlaughter standing at the door apparently in great affliction. On in- quiring into the cause of her distress, she told me her father was dving. I dismounted, and went into the house to see him. I found nim in the last stage of a putrid fever ; his tongue was black ; his pulse was scarcely perceptible ; and he lay stretched out, like a corpse, in a state of drowsy insensibiUty. i immediately procured some yeast ; which I diluted with water, and poured down his throat. I then left him, with little hope of his recovery. I returned to him in about two hours ; and found him sensible, and able to converse. I then gave him a dose of bark. He afterward took, at a propei interval, some refreshment. I continued with him till he repeated the yeast ; and then left him, with directions how to proceed. I called on him the next morning at nine o'clock, and found him apparently well, walking in his garden. He was an old man, upwards of seventy. I have, since, administered the yeast to above fifty persons labour- ing under putrid fevers ; and, what is singular, I have not lost one patient." Dr. Thornton, whose opportunities have been great, as superintending physician of the General Dispensary, including the poor of nine parishes in Ijondon, has made frequent trials of yeast. In St. Giles's, particularly, among the numerous poor of that crowd- ed district, he administers, in putrid diseases, after cleansing the first passages, nothing else but two table spoonsful of yeast in some porter, every two hours; and, in about fif:y successive cases, not a single patient died under this treatment. The following cases are selected, from this physician's successful practice, as peculiarly in- teresting. As Dr. Thornton was accidentally passing the shop of Mr. Ihirford, in Tottenham Court lioad, he heard the shrieks of a mo- ther, agonized at seeing her child apparently expire. These alarming screams renewed the struggles of the cliild ; and the nurse was, at this moment, threatening to take away the child, that it might die in peace. The doctor inmiediately got down sonie tartar emetic, which quickly acted on the stomach ; and, that operation ended, gave a dose of rhubarb, to clear also the intestines. He iheii ordered the child yeasf and water every two hours, wiih wine and bark; and, iji tliree days, the dying child was up and well The infection had spread to two RE'JKlt'T-bOOK. 47 other persons in the same house. With liii.-?, and another child, the putrid fever was attended by swelled glands, which had suppurated, and threatened nioitilication : with a robust servant girl, it took the torni ot" a putrid sore throat. This girl also had an emetic, and after- ward rhubarb, followed by yeast and water every two hours. The (irst ellect of the yeast was that of rendering the pulse fuller, and ditninishing it fifteen beats a minute : the blackness of her tongue soon began to assnu'c a clean and a red appearance ; and, without either bark or wine, she was speedily restored to health. In Husband- street, a very confined situation near Berwick-street, a malignant fever prevailed ; which, within a fortnight, had swept away six per- sons from three houses oidy, w hen Dr. '1 hornton was called in, to the assistance of a mother, who lay in the same bed with her two children. She was delirious ; and violently rejected both food and medicine, with which she was, consequently, obliged to be drenched. After an emetic and cathartic had been got down each, herself and children were all put on the same plan : that is, each was made to swallow, every three hours, two-thirds of a glass of fresh porter, with two table spoonsful of yeast, and the juice of half a lemon. '1 he fvjod given at intervals v>'as the white of eggs, beat uj) with some su- gar and water ; the doctor judging that, a* the white of eggs, even under the heat of a hen's body during incubation, does not corrupt, but actually serves as milk to t!ie embryo in the shell, this was of all things least liable to putrefy. Strawberries, being in season, were also ordered ; and, with this management alone, she and her little family all rapidly recovered. More testimonies might easily be add- ed, and from several other respectable practitioners ; but farther proofs seem unnecessary to establish the prodigious efficacy of yeast, in one of the most fatal class of maladies with which human nature is peculiarly subject to be afflicted. Where, indeed, is the family, which has not suffered by the dreadful ravages of some putrid disease, which, under Providence, a knowledge of this simpJe but potent emedy, and for which we are indebted to the Reverend Mr. Cart- wright, might happily have prevented ! Admirnhle Cement, or JMortar, as made on the Cotsxvold Hills. On the Cotswold Hills, in Gloucestershire, where lime is dear, aiwj sand not to be had, an excellent mortar Is prepared at a moderate price. Invention is seldom more successful than when it is prompted by necessity. The scrapings of the public roads over these hills, being levigated lime-stone, more or less i;:ipregnated with the dung and urine of the animals travelling on them, are found to be a most admirable basis for cement. The scrapings are often used for ordi- nary walls ; and the general proportion, for even the beet buildings, iy not more than one part hme to three of scrapings. Thisriortar, of less than ten years standing, has been )bserve'i to possess a stone-like tenacity, much firmer than the common stone of the country ; and, consequently, much harder than the stones from which either the basis or the lime was made. The method of preparing this powerful inortar, or cement, is simply by collecting the r'md pcrnpings, slack' 48 THE NEW FA.MIL/ ing the lime, and mi\uig them very thoroughly together ; carefully picking out, as the mass is worked over, the stones or other Ibu'iiessrs which may have been collected. For stone-work, this is quite tufli- cient; for brick- work, it might be necessary to pass the rnaterialu (iiroiigh a screen or sieve, previously to their being united, and madi' .ip into mortar. Similar scrapings may be collected, wherever hmo ^tofle is used as a material in making oi repairing roads ; this admi- rable mortar can, therefore, readily be prepared, in all such places, with very little trouble or expense. Ancient British Liquor, called Bragget. This once famous old British liquor is still made by a few respec- table families, chiefly in Wales ; from one of which we have been favoured with an admirable method of preparing it. The original AVelsh name is bragod ; from which has been formed that of bragget, or braggot, for it is found both ways in the few old dictionaries and other books where it occurs, and simply defined as a drink consist- ing of honey and spices. Were this correct, it could only be con- sidered as the Welsh appellation of mead or metheglin ; but, accord- ing to our information, bragget implies a combination of malt liquor with honey and spices, the best method of preparing which is as fol- lows : Take after the rate of a gallon of water to a pound of honev, and stir it till the honey be melted. Then, adding half a handful each of rosemary tops, bay-leaves, sweet briar, angelica, balm, thyme, or other sweet herbs, with half an ounce of sliced gingc^, and a httle nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, and a few cloves, boil them gently together for nearly half an hour ; scumming it well, till it looks tolerably clear. In the mean time, having pre[)ared three gallons of the first runnings of strong ale, or sweet wort, mix the two liquids quite hot, with all the herbs and spices ; and, stirring them together for some time over a fire, but without suffering them to boil, .strain ofl the liq\ior, and set it to cool. W^hen it becomes only the warmth of new milk, ferment it with good ale yeast ; and, after it nas properly worked, tun it up, and hang a bag of bruised spices in the barrel, where it is to remain all the time of drawing. It is generally drank from the cask ; but may be bottled, like other liquors, any time after it has entirely ceased to hiss in the barrel. A weaker sort of brag l^et is sometimes prepared with the third runnings of the ale, a si- ler proportion of honey, and the strained spices, &c. with a few . herbs ; the second runnings, in that case, being made the family These arrangements, however, and other obvious deviations, u made according to the taste or inclination of the respective parlies. fVonderful effect of Potato Liquid, in Cleaning Silk, IVooI- len, and Cotton Furniture or Apparel, c^-c. ivithout Injury 'a the Texture or Colour. For the communication of (his valuable discovery to (he Society for he Enco(nageinent of Arts, IManufactures, and Commerce, in ihe Adelplii, February 4, 1805, iMrs. IMorris obtained a premium of fifteen guineas from that truly honourable inslitutic s ; in whose HECEIPT-BOOK. 49 ''causae. .ons of that year it is thus rejjuhirly described : Taivo raw potatoes, in the stcite they aru taken cm ot" the earth. Wash them well : then nib thotii on a grater, over a vessel of clean water, to j fine pulp ; [)ass the liquid matter, through a coarse sieve, into anothei lub of clear water ; let the mixtirre stand, till the Ihie white par tides of the potatoes are precipitated ; then pour the mucilaginous liquor from the fecula, and preserve this liquor for use. The article to be cleaned should be laid, on a linen cloth, on a table : and, having provided a clean sponge, dip the sponge in the potato liquor, and apply the spong(! thus wet on the article to be cleaned ; and rub it well on with repeated portions of the potato liquor, till the dirt is perfectly separated. Then wash the article in clean water several times, to remove the loose dirt. It may, afterward, be smoothed o dried. Two middle sized potatoes will be sufficient for a pint of water. The white fecula, which separates in making the mucilagi- nous liquor, will answer the pmpose of tapioca : it will make a use- ful and nourishing food with soup or milk, or serve to make starch and hair powder. The coarse pulp, which does not pass the sieve, is of great use in cleaning worsted curtains, tapestry, carpets, or other coarse goods. The mucilaginous liquor of the potatoes will clean all sorts of silk, cotton, or woollen goods, without damaging the texture of the article or spoiling the colour. It is also useful in cleaning oil paintings, or furniture that is soiled. Dirty painted wainscots may be cleaned by wetting a sponge in the liquor, then dipping it in a liltle fine clean sand, and afterward rubbing the wains- cot therewith. Various experiments were made by Mrs. Morris, in the presence of a committee, at the society's house ; and the whole process, on fine and coarse goods of different fabrics, was perform- ed to their entire satisfaction. This simple but very valuable dis- covery may certainly be applied to many other useful purposes, as well as those which are here particularly enumerated. JVeio method of Clearing Feathers from their Animal Oil. Thk process f)r etTecting this usefid purpose, is thus described in (he Transactions of the Adelphi Society, who rewarded Mrs. Rich- ardson with a premium of twenty guineas for making the discovery : Take for (ivcry gallon of clear water, a pound of quick lime. Mix Ihem well together; and, when the undissolved lime is precipitated in i\ne powder, pour off the clear lime-water for use, at the time it is wanted. Put the feathers to be cleaned in another tub, and add to thcui a sufiicient quantity of the clear lime-water to cover the fea- thers about three inches when well immersed and stirred therein. The feathers, when thoroughly moistened, will sink down ; and should re- main in the lime-water three or lour days : after which, the foul liquor should be separated from the feathers, by laying them on a sieve. The feathers should be afterward well washed in clean water, and dried on nets, the meshes being about the same firmness as those of cab- bage nets. The feathers must, from time to time, be shaken on the nets ; and, as they dry, they will fall through the meshes, and are to be collected for use. The admission of air will be serviceable in tha 50 Tn:; nkw f'AMjLf drying, and the wliolo process iii.iy ho completed in about three v»eek8« 'I'lie leathers, after being thus prepared, \\ill want nothing more than ()e:iling fur use, either as beds, bolsters, pillows, or cushions. So eUcctual is this method, and so preferable to the old and common way of stoving or baking, that :rn eniinenl dealer having sent to the society some bags of foreign feathers, which retained their unplea- sant smell after having been stoved the usual period of three days, ]Mrs. Richardson rendered ihcm perfectly sweet and clean. This is a very im[)ortant discovery ; more particularly as the feathers, by not being hardened with heat, certainly require less beating. Mr. Scbristia7i Grnndi's Restoration or Discovery of the old J^enetinn Art of preparing G ronncU for Painting on Pavc^ nels, Copper^ or Canvas, &/•: This ingenious gentleman, having huig had the honour of being employed by the most eminent professors of the line arts in Italy and England, and assisted and im[)roved the processes of preparing canvases and the pannels, seem.s to have discovered, as far as ex- perience can prove, the manner of preparing either canvas, copper, or pannel, in the old VenetiuTi stile ; an art which has been long lost, and to which it is well known that Titian, Paul Veronese, Bassani, and other Venetian masters, owed much of the peculiar harmony, brightness, and durability, of their beautiful productions. Mr. Grand* naving communicated, for the public benefit, his entire process oi feus preparing pannels, canvas, cVc. for artists ; and also made other valuable communications with regard to the preparation of oils, colours, crayons, &c. for painting and drawing ; was rewarded by the Honourable Society in the Adelphi for the encouragement of Arts, &c. with tUeir elegant and honourary silver n;edal, as well as a pecuniary premium of twenty guhieas. These, tlierefore, in per- fect concert with the design of that liberal and truly patriotic institu- tion, we shall contribute all in our power to make more generally known. Mr. Grandi's method of preparing panricls and canvases for painters is thus described : Break, grossly, the bones of sheep's trotters, and boil them in water till they are cleared from their grease , then putting them into a crucible, calcine tlicjii, and afterward grind them to p(»wder. Dry some wheaten flour in a pan, over a slow fire ; then make it into a thin paste, adding an equal qu;aility of the pul verized hone ashes, and grind the whole mass well together. This mixtine forms the ground for the pannel. When the pannel has been well pumiced, some of the mixture or ground is io be well rubbed on a |iumice stone, that it may be incorporated with the pannel : another coat of the composition is next applied, with a brush on the paiuiel, where it is suliered to dry, the surface being afterward rubbed "over with sand paper. A thin coat of the composition is then ap- plied with a brush ; and, if a coloured eround be rcqiiired, a coat or two more must be added, so as to complete the absorbent grotmd. When a pannel thus prepared is wanted to be painted on, it must be rubbed over with a coat oi" raw lint^eed or poppy oil, as drying oil would destroy the absorbent quality of the ground ; and the pamtcr'a RECKIPT-HeOK 51 colours shoulJ aisc bo mixed up with the purified oil for r\uinting lirreaittr inentioaed. Canvas grounds are prepared by giving them a turn coat of the composition, and afterward drying and pumicing them ; then giving thcni a second coat, and, lastly, a coat of colour- ii!g matter along with the composition. The grounds thus prepared do not crack : they may b3 painted in a very short time after being laid ; and, from their absorbent quality, allow the business to be pro ceeded in with greater facility and better effect than with those pre- pared in the usual mode. These valuable qualities have been suf- riciently ascertained, and are liberally avowed, by Sir William Beechy and other Royal Academicians, whose names are added to Mr. Grandi's last communication. Method of Purifying the Oil for mixing up Colours. Make some of the bone-ashes into paste with a little water, so as to form a mass or ball. Put this ball into the fire, and make it red hot ; then immerse it, for an hour, in a quantity of raw linseed oil sufficient to cover it. When cold, pour the oil into bottles ; add to it a little of the bone ashes ; let it stand to settle ; and, in a single day, it will be clear, and fit for use. Preparation of White, Brown, Yellow, Red, Gray, and Blue Black Colours, xchich never Change, and may be used either in Oil or Water. White is made by calcining the bones of sheep's trotters in a clear open fire, till they become a perfect white, which will never change. Brown is made from bones in a similar manner, only cal- cining from them in a crucible instead of an open fire. Yellow, or masticot, by burning a piece of soft brick of a yellowish colour in the fire ; grinding a quarter of a pound of flake white with every pound of brick: calcining them, as well as grinding them, together ; and, afterward, washing the mixture to separate the sand, and letting the finer part gradually dry for use. Red, equal in beauty to Indian red, by calcining some of the pyrites usually found in coal pits. Gray, by calcining together blue slate and bone ashes powdered, grinding them together, washing the texture, and gradually drying it. Blue Black, by burning vine stalks within a close crucible and in a slow fire, till they become a perfect charcoal, which must be well ground for use. Superior Crayons, of Permanent Colours^ to he applied either in Water or Oil. These crayons, produced also by Mr. Grandi, are of a quality superior to any heretofore in use ; they are fixed, so as to prevent their rubbing off the paper when used, and may be applied in water or oil. This process of preparing the crayons is thus described : — They are made of bone-ash powder mixed with spermaceti, adding the co- louring matters. The proper proportion is, three ounces of sperma- ceti to a pound of the powder; the .spermaceti to be first dissolved in a pint of boiling water ; then thr white bone-a=hes added : a.^d tho 52 THE NKW KAMII.Y nholc to be well ground together, with as much of the respocfiv* colo(jring mull or tiS may be necessary for the shade of colour want- ed. They arc then to be rolled up in the proper form, and graduai- ly dried on a board. Prepnraiion of J V kite and Coloured Chalks. Ik wiiite chalk be reqiiired to worl '^oft, add a quarter of a pound of whiting to a pound of the bone-ash ponder; otherwise, the Ijonc-ashes will answer alone. Coloured chalks are prepared bj grinding the respective colouring matters with bone-ashes. These several communications, relative to the preparation of grounds, oif, colours, crayons, and chalks, for painters, were most respectably certified to the Society in the Adelphi, by Sir William Beechy, and the following other Royal Academicians, &c. Benjamin West, John Opie, Martin Archer Shee, James Northcote, 'Ihomas Lawrence, Joseph Farrington, Richard Cosway, P. J. De Loulherbourg, Rich- ard M. Paye, and Isaac Pocock, Esquires ; who all confirm the good qualities of the pannels prepared by Mr. Grandi, and generally recommend his colours as useful and permanent. The materials are certainly extremely cheap, as well as easy to be procured, and none of the processes for preparation are at all difiicult. SyrujJ of Damask Rosea. The Edinburgh Dispensatory describes syrup of damask roses as an agreeable and mild purgative for children, in doses of from half to a whole table spoonful. It likewise mentions, that this syrup proves gently laxative to adults ; and, with that intention, may be of service to costive habits. The method of preparing it, according to the London practice, is as follows : — Take seven ounces of the dried petals of the damask rose, six pounds of double-refined sugar, and four |)ints of boiling distilled water. Macerate the roses in the wa- ter for twelve hours, and then strain. Evaporate the strained liquor to two pints and a half; and add the sugar, that it may be made a syrup. In the Edinburgh practice, it is prepared thus: — Take one pound of the fresh petals oi" the damask rose, four pounds of boiling water, and three pounds of double-refined sugar. Macerate the roses in the water lor twelve hours ; then, to the strained infusion, add the sugar, and boil them to a syrup in the usual manner, as di reeled for syrup of clove gillyflowers, &c. Sijnij) rf Red Roses. This, in the Edinburgh Dispensatory, is properly distinguished from the syrup of damask roses ; being considered as mildly astrin- gent, instead of gently laxative. It seems, however, principally valued on account of its beautiful red colour. The manner of pre- paring it is almost the same as the Ijondon method of making the syrup of damask roses, called simply syrup of roses : — Take peven ounces of the dried petals of red roses, six pounds of double-refined sugar, and five [)oun(ls (jf boili.ig vi'ater. Macerate the rosea in the vater for twelve hours ; then boil a littlf, and strain the liquor : aess, is as follows : — Pour eight gallons of cold water into a barrel : and then, boiling eight gallons more, put that in also ; to this, add twelve pounds of molasses, with about half a pound of the essence of spruce ; and, on its getting a little cooler, half a pint of good ale yeast. The whole being well stirred, or rolled in the barrel,, must be left with the bung out for two or three days ; after which, the liquor may be immediately bottled, well corked up, and packed in saw-dust or sand, when it will be ripe and fit for drir.k in a fortnight If spruce beer be made immediately from the branvhes or cones, they are required to be boiled for two hours ; after which, the liquor is to be strained into a barrel, the molasses and yeast are to be added to the extract, and to be in all respects treated after the same man- ner. Spruce beer is best bottled in stone ; and, from its volatile nature, the whole should be immediately drank when the bottle is once opened. Blackmaii's celebrated Oil Colour Cakes for Jlrtists. Thk following is the process, as described in the transactions of the Society of Arts : — Take four oimces of the clearest gum mas- tich, and a pint of spirits of turpentine ; mix them together in a bottle, stirring them frequently till the mastich ue dissolved. Where haste is required, some heat may be applied, but the solution is bet- ter when made cold. Let the colours be the best which can be procured ; taking care that, by washing, Sec. they are brought to the rrreatest possible degree of fineness. When the colours are dry, ♦ grind them on a hard close stone, for which p>npose porphyry is best, in spirits of turpentine, adding a small quantity of tiie mastich varnish. Let the colours so ground become again dry ; then pre- 54 Tt, E NEW f iMlLT pare, in the following manner, the composition for forming them into cakes : procure some of tlie purest and whitest spermaceti ; melt it, in a clean earthen ve.ssel, over a gentle fiie ; and, when fluid, add- ing one third its weight of pure poppy oil, stir the whole well to- gether. These things being in readiness, place over a frame or support the stone on which the colours were ground, with a charcoal fne to warm it beneath. This done, grind the colour fine with a muiier, on the warm stone ; after which, adding a sufficient quantity of the mixture of poppy oil and spermaceti, work the whole to- gether with a muller to the proper consistence. Lastly, taking a piece of the fit size for the cake intended to be made, roll it into a ball, put it into a mould and press it, when the process wilj be com- plete. These cakes, on being wanted for use, must be rubbed down in poppy or other oil, or in a mixture of spirits of turpentine and oil, as rnay best suit the convenience or intention of the artist. A curious and useful Glue. Take an ounce of isinglass, beat it to shreds, and put it into « pint of brandy ; when gradually dissolved, which it soon is with a gentle heat, strain the solution through a piece of fine muslin, and the glue will be obtained, which is to be kept in a glass closely stop ped. On being dissolved, in a moderate heat, it is thin, transparent, and almost limpid. When used in the manner of common glue, il joins together the parts of wood stronger than the wood itself is united : so that the pieces thus joined will break in any other part sooner than where they are glued together. It is also remarkable, that, if saw-dust, or powdered wood, be made into a ball with this glue, the ball will prove solid and elastic ; so that it may be turned and used as a bowl, without breaking. As the glue thus made with brandy will keep long without corrupting, it is by no means an im- proper form to preserve isinglass ready dissolved, for fining wines and other purposes. Another use of this curious glue is, that of its serving excellently for taking ofi' impressions of medals or coins : thus, if a little of it, when melted, be poured thinly on a new guinea, &c. so as to cover the whole surface of the piece, and suffered so to remain a day or two, till it become thoroughly dry, it will appear hard and transparent, like a piece of Muscovy glass, with the impression of the guinea in intaglio, as it is denominated, on one side, and in relievo on the other. This glue dries into a very strong, tough, and transparent substance ; not easily damaged by any thing but equeous moisture, which would soon dissolve it. This last reason renders it unfit for any use where it would be much exposed to wet or damp air. Common gLi., dissolved with linseed oil, is admirably calcu- lated to stand the weather ; a secret little known by those who would be most benefited by its adoption. Korfolk Milk Punch. Steep the thin parings of seven lemons, and as many Seville oranges, in a pint of brandy, for three days. Then squeeze all tho juice of these oranges and lemons into the brandy ; and add three RECEIPT-BOOK. OO pints of rum, three pints more of brand), and srx pints of water. Grate a iiu'uneg into two quarts of milk ; ;ind, having made it boil- ing hot, pour it into t!ie above ingredients, cari.fully keeping tha whole well stirred till completely mixed ; then add two pounds of fine loaf sugar, which must also be well stirred. Let the punch thu3 made stand twelve hours, then strain it ihrough a flannel bag till it appear perfectly bright. It may, probably, require to be thr^e or four times strained, according to tie fineness or coarseness ci the sugar, and other circumstances. When qiiite clear, thischaiming liquor is immediately fit to drink ; or will keep, if bottled, any length of time, and in all climates. j^rt of making the Curious Sympathetic Ink. This curious ink has been long known in the world ; but the man- ner of preparing it, and means of procuring the materials, as describ- ed in various chemical books, rendered the task too discouraging to be often attempted. By the following easy method, however, it is readily accomplishable : — Take an ounce and a half of zaffre, which may be obtained at any colour-shop, and put it into a glass vessel with a narrow and long neck, pouring over it an ounce measur.e of strong nitrous acid, diluted with five times the quantity of water. Keep it in a warm situation, but not too hot, for about ten or twelve hours, and then decant the clearest part of t!ie liquor. Having so done, pour nearly as much more diluted nitrous acid on the remam- der : which id to continue in the same situation, and for as long a time as before, and then be decanted and mixed with what was obtained by the first operation. This being done, dissolve m it two ounces of common salt, and the sympathetic ink is completely made. The property of this ink is, that the writing made witli it, on common pa- per, is legible only while the paper is hot and dry ; so tliat, by ex- posing 't, alternately, to the ambient air, and to the heat of a fire or burning sun, whatever is written may be caused to appear and dis- appear at pleasure. The universal knowledge of this secret rather diminishes than increases the security of guilt in using it for any im- proper purpose; since detection is certain, from the moment suspicion takes place, by simply holding every letter or other doubtful paper to ilie fire, or in the \rarm rays of the sun. * Soft Sealing Wav,for TmjJressing Seals of Ojfice, ^c. This sealing wax, \yliich is seldom used for any other purpcse than that of receiving the impressions of sea's of office to charters, patents, proceedings in chancery, &c. is prepared, when to he iised white, c rather uncolnured, by mixing half a pound of bees' wax, an O'ince and a half of turpentine, and half an ounce of sweet oil ; and carefully boiling them together, tnl the compound becomes of a fit consistency for moulding into rolls, cakes, or balls, for use. If colour be wanted, it is readily obtained by stirring into the melted mass about half an ounce of a proper pigment, as in making the red ol other coloured hard sealing wax. 6G THE NEW FAMILV Capital Sugar Vir.igar. This useful article of domestic economy might casjy be made in the poorest famihcs : — To every quart of spring water put a quarter of a pound of the coarsest sugar ; boil them together, and keep skim- ming tlio liquor as long as any scum rises. After pouring it into a tub or other vessel, let it stand till cool enough to work ; and tiien |)lace in it a toast spread with yeast, of a size proportioned to the quantity made. Let it ferment a day or two ; then beat the yeast into it, put it into acag or barrel with a piece of tile or slate over the bung-hole, and place it in a situation where it may best receive the heat of the sun. Make it in March, or the beginning of April, and it will be fit for use in July or August. If not sour enough, which can soldotn happen when properly managed, let it stand a month longer before it be bottled off. It may be kept in stone or glass bot- tles. During the time of makiufj, it must never be disturbed, after the first week or ten days ; and though, in very fine weather, the bung-hole would be best left open all day, as it might be fatal to leave it open a single night, or exposed to any sudden rain, the great- est caution will in that case be necessary. Previously to its being bottled, it may be drawn off into a fresh cask ; and, if it fill a large barrel, a handful of shred isinglass may be thrown in, or less in pro- portion to the quantity : this, after it has stood a ^ew days, will ren- der the vinegar fine, when it may be drawn off, or bottled, for use. This sugar vinegar, though very strong, may be used in pickling fur sea-store or exportation, without being at all lowered ; but for pick- les to be eaten in Ilngland it will bear mixing with at least an equal quantity of cold spring water. There are few pickles for which this vinegai need ever be boiled. Without boihng, it vvill keep walnuts very finely, even for the East or West Indies ; but then, as remarked in general of pickles for foreign use, it must be unmixed with water. If much vinegar be made, so as to require expensive casks, the out- sides should alM'iys be painted, for the sake of preserving them from the influence of 'he weather, during so many months of exposure to sun and rain. Excellent Embrocation for the Hooping- Cough. All the dreadful consequences of the chin or hooping cough, and its commonly tedious duration, may be obviated and shortened by the following admirable remedy : — Mix well together half an >unce each of spirit of hartshorn and oil of am.ber ; with which plen- tifully anoint the palms of the hands, the pit of the stomach, the soles of the feet, the arm-pits, and the back bone, every morning and even- ing for a month, suffering no water to come near the parts thus an- ointed, though the fingers and backs of the hands may be wiped with a damp cloth. It should be rubbed in near the fire, and care naturally used to prevent afterwards taking cold. It is best to make only the above quantity at a time ; because, by frequently opening the bottle, much of the virtue will be lost. It should, by rights, be kept in a glass-stopper bottle. Indeed, the hartshorn is always thus kept bv RECEIPT-BOOK. 57 the faculty ; and where it forms so large a part of the mixtjire, the necessity of preventing its elUuvia from escaping is equally great. Tliese precautions taken, and tiie other directions followed, its use will seldom fail to be attended with the most complete success: frequently in a n:uch shorter time than it is judged prudent to ad- vise its being continued, as it can never possibly do the smallest injury even to the tenderest infants. Speedy Cure for a Sp^c.in. Take a large spoonful of lioney, the same quantity of salt, and the white of an egg : beat the whole up together incessantly for two hours; then let it stand an hour, and anoint the place sprained with the oil which will be produced, keeping the part well rolled with a good bandage. This is said generally to have enabled per- sons with sprained ankles, frequently more tediously cured than even a broken limb, and often leaving a pcpetual weakness in the joint, to walk in twenty-four hours, entirely free from pain. Singular and simple manner of preserving Apples from (he effects of frost in JYorth America. Apples being produced almost abundantly in North America, and forming an article of chief necessity in almost every family, the greatest care is constantly taken to protect them from frost at the earliest commencement of the winter season ; it being well known, that apples, if left unprotected, are inevitably destroyed by the first frost which occurs. This desirable object, during their long and severe winters, is said to be completely effected, by only throwing over them a thin linen cloth before the approach of frost, when tlie fruit is never injured, how severe soever the winter may happen to prove. Yet apples are there usually kept in a small apartment, immediately beneath the roof of the house, which is par- ticularly appropriated to that purpose, and where there is never any fire. This is a fact so well known, that the Americans are astonish- ed it should appear at all wonderful : and ihey have some reason to be so, when it is considered that, throughout Germany, the same method of preserving fruit is universally practised ; from whence probably it made its way to North America. It appears that linen cloth only is used for this purpose ; woollen cloth, in particular, liaving been experienced to prove ineffectual. There seems abun- dant reason to believe, ifiat even potatoes miglit be protected from frost by some such simple expedient. This, also, like the preced- ing article, to which the principle seems so very analogous, merits high consideration; and for the same iniportant reason, its capa- bility of conducing to the universal benefit of mankind, and the nu- merous animals under our protection. Cure for Chilblains. Ir, before any inflammation take place, the feet or hands aflfected are well washed morning and evening with hot water, or even with ctvld water on going 'o bed. i' will gentnllv stop thei prrgress f 68 THE NEW FAMILY HCCEtfi-liOUK. especially if warm socks or gloves l)e constantly worn ; but, wlieo they are acluaily iiiflaniecl, di|) a I'oiir times loliled rag into a mix* ture composed of lour ounces ul' spiriis of wine and camphor, and one ounce of V^enice treacle ; which must he lied every night on tlip chilblains till they quite disappear. With these precautions, they will seldom or never be Ibund to ulceraie; or, as it is connnonly called, to break : when this hapj)ens, dissolve an ounce of common turpentine in the yolk of an egg, and mix it up into a balsam, with halt an ounce of lamp black, or even soot, and a drachm of oil or spirits of turpentine. Spread this balsam on a plegit of lint large enough entirely to cover the ulcer, lie it on with warm cloths over the part aflccied ; and renew the dressings every morning and evening, which will speedily effect a cure. Soft leather socks, if worn before the first approach of winter, in October at farthest, aod never suffered to get wet or hard, will generally preserve from chil- blains even those who are most subject to be troubled with them. Delicate Cream Cheese- Take to every quart of new milk a gill of cream, make the mix- ture slightly warm, and put into it as little rennet as may be neces- sary just to turn it. The curd being come, to use the language of the dairy, lay a cloth on the vat or mould, which may be the bot- tom of a sieve, but should be the exact size of the intended cheese ; then, cutting out the curd with a skimming dish, fill up the mould, turn the cloth over it, and leave it to drain. As the curd drains and settles, keep filling in n)ore with a gentle pressure, till all the whey is out, and there is sufiicient substance for the cheese. It must be then turned into a dry cloth, and pressed with a moderate weight, not exceeding two pounds. At night, it is to be turned into a clean cloth; and, the next morning, very slightly sprinkled with fine salt : after which, if sufficiently dry, it may be laid on a bed of fresh nettle, strawberry, or ash leaves ; covered over with more i and, being shifted and turned twice a day, having the leaves occa- sionally renewed, will, in less than a fortnight, be sufficiently ripen- ed for eating. If expedition be desirable, the maturity of the cheese may be considerably hastened by keepiug it in a warm place, be- tween two pewter dishes, and giving it a fresh bed and covering of leaves every day. Il^^BEX TO THE NEW FAMILY RECEIPT-BOOK. Page German method of Clarify- ing and Preserving Fresh Butter 3 Queen Elizabeth's Cordial Electuary ib. Genuine Friar'a Balsam 4 Page liOzenges for the Heart-burn 4 Decoction for the Stone and Gravel 5 Instant relief for apain of the Bowels il>. The true Daffy's Elixir iK INDEX. 59 Infallible remedy for the Ague Bayley's Patent Cakes for Liquid Blacking Incomparable Fumigation, or Vapour for a Sore Throat To make Fine Red Ink Method of Polishing Rusty Steel A fine Balsamic Elixir for Coughs and Consumptions Admiral Gascoigne's Tinc- ture of Rheubarb German Cure for a Consump- tion Easy and effectual Cure for Wens Genuine Lozenges for the Piles Easy method of cleaning Pa- per Hangings Sir John Hill's Specific for the Scurvy Russian method to preserve Green Peas for Winter Admirable wash for the Hair Fine Raspberry Vinegar Genuine Turlington's Balsam Cephalic Snuff An excellent and cheap Com- position for Weather Board- ing, &c. Incomparable Liquid for chang- ing the Colour of the Hair Dutch method of extracting beautiful Colours from Flowers Excellent remedy for the Dropsy Another powerful remedy for the Dropsy Of the fining of Malt Liquors To make Elderberry Beer An easy method of Drying Currants in Bunches Dr. Stoughton's celebrated Stomachic Elixir Cure for a Pimpled Face Curious method of separating Gold O' Silver ^rom I/ace Page! Pa2o ib. 5j Permanent Red ,. k for mark- l ing Linen 6 Portable Balls for taking out Spots from Clothes ib. Art of preparing a newly-dis- 7 covered Permanent Green Pigment both for Oil and ib. Water Colours Stewed Oysters in French ib. Rolls Dr. Anderson's admirable ib. improvement of Salting Butter 8 Method of Fattening Chick- ens ib. Lord Orford's curious me- thod of feeding Carp in ib. Ponds Dr. Fuller's Chemical Snuff for the Head Ache, Palsy, and Drowsy Distempers Speedy remedy for a Bruis- ed Eye Stomach Plaster for a Cough Oil of Brown Paper for Burns Liquid for removing Spots of Grease, Pitch, or Oil from Cloth To take out Ink Spots from Woollen, Linen, and Silk Ink Stains taken out of Ma- I hogany Furniture 12lRed Mixture for giving a fine Colour to Mahogany Fur- I niture ib.lMr. Jayne's Patent method I of preserving Eggs 13] Chinese mode of rendering I Clotli, and even Muslin, Waterproof Beautiful newly-discovered Golden Yellow Dye Curious method of Breeding Gold and Silver Fish Syrup of Red Cabbage, as prepared in France Boluses for the Rheumatism and Contractions of the 15 Joints 15 ib. ib. 16 ib. 17 ib. ib. ib. 18 ib. ib. ib. 19 ib. ib. ib. 20 21 22 60 INDEX. Pill for an Aching Hollow Tooth Tea for the Gout Infallible Powder for Short- ness of Breath Excellent Wash for Numbed or Trembling Hands Mustard Whey for a Palsy and Nervous Disorders Ingenious French Liquid for making Bulbous Root^ flower beautifully in the Winter Season Art of Extracting the finest Carmine Powder from Clippings of Scarlet Cloth Substitute for Verdigris in producing a fine Black Dye without injury to Cloth Artificial Musk Wonderful, but easy and ef- fectual method of render- ing all sorts of Paper Fire- proof Bellamy's Patent methods of making Leather of all Sorts Waterproof Genuine Receipt for making the Invaluable Cordial Li- quor called Vespetro, re- commended by the king of France's Physicians Incomparable method of Salting Meat, as adopted by the late Empress of Russia Electuary for the Rheumatism Art of making the best Black Ink Powder Genuine Syrup for Coughs, Spitting of Blood, &c. Vast advantages of Bakin-g instead of Boiling Beet- Root Remedy for Wind in the Veins Best method of making Sage Cheese Syrup of Ginger ib. ib. ib. l^ ib. ib. 24 ib. ib. Page Pag* Wonderful Power of the Turkish Gfjue, ■nith the Art of making jt ib Valuable Seciet in preparing Foil for Diamonds 20 Easy method of Dying Cot- ton with Madder ib. Admirable Water for Thick- enin": the Hair, and to pre- vent its falling off" 30 Celebrated French Worm Medicine for Dogs ib. Use of the celebrated Ger- man Tinder, and its great Importance ib. To make a Powder, by which you may write with water 31 Turkish method of Filtering Water by Ascension. ib. Patent Machine for Purifying the foulest water ib. Management of Coffee in France 32 An invaluable Mixture, for effectually destroying Bugs ib. Grand Ptisan, or Diet Drink of Health and Longevity, by a celebrated French Physician Curious and simple manner of keeping Apricots, Peaches, Plums, &c. fresh all the Year Genuine Windsor Soap Art of Dying or Staining Leather Gloves, to resem- ble the beautiful York Tan, Limerick Dye, &c. Art of making Phosphoric Tapers or Matches jEasy method of making Phos- ib. ' phoric Bottles 'Specifications of Lord Wil- liam Murray's Patent for ib. extracting Starch from 2S Horse Chesnuts Patent Potato Composition ib. to be used instead of Yeast ib. P -itannic Elas'ic Gun» ib. 26 ib. 33 34 ib. 35 ib. lb 36 ib. 3* INDEX. 61 Paiie ^'est India Bitters, or Anti- Bilious Drops Oxymel of Garlic for Asth- matic complaints, Rheu- matism, &U'. Method of making Grape Wines, fully equal to Cham- paign and old Hock Art of Extracting Spots of Grease, Tallow, Oil, &c. from Valuable Books, Prints, and Papers of all sorts, without injury to the Printinjj or Writing ^{laikie's Patent Substitute for Gum, in thickening Co- lours for Calico Printers, &c. ' French method of making Garlic Vinegar t'lne Tarragon Vinegar Vinegar of Roses Excellent Blue Colour for Ceilings, &c. Composition for cleaning Marble Hearths, Chimney Pieces, Alabaster, <&rc. Turkish Rouge ; or admir- able Carmine Purified Syrup of Molasses Art of Preparing a fine Red Lake from Dutch Madder Clarified Goose Grease Composition for Restoring Scorched Linen Easy method to prevent Ba- con from becoming Rusty Best Saxon Blue Wonderful efficacy of Yeast in the cure of Putrid Dis- eases Admirable Cement, or Mor- tar Ancient British Liquor, call- ed Bragget Wonderful efiect of Po at*- L^uid, in cleaning Silk ib. ]8 39 40 ib. ib. 41 ib. ib. 42 43 ib. ib. 44 ib. ib. 45 47 48 Page A\ oollen, and Cotton Fur- niture or Apparel, &c. without injury to the Tex- ture or Colour 48 Method of clearing Feathers from their Animal Oil 49 Sebastian Grandi's Restora- tion or Discovery of the old Venetian Art of prepar- ing Grounds for Painting on Pannels, Copper, or Canvas, &c. 50 Method of Purifying the Oil for mixing up Colours 51 Preparation of White, Brown, Yellow, Red, Gray, and Blue Black Colours, which never change, and may be used either in Oil or Water ib. Superior Crayons of peima- nent Colours, to be applied either in Water or Oil ib. Preparation of White and Co- loured Chalks 52 Syrup of Damask Roses ib. Syrup of Red Roses ib. Excellent Spruce Beer 53 Blackman's celebrated Oil Colour Cakes for Artists ib A curious and useful Glue 54 Norfolk Milk Punch ib. Art of making the Curious Sympathetic Ink 55 Soft Sealing W"ax, for Im- pressing Seals of Office, &c. ib. Capital Sugar Vinegar 56 Excellent Embrocation for the Hooping-Cough ib. Speedy Cure for a Sprain 57 Singular and s'mple manner of preserving Apples from the effects of frost in North America ib. Cure for Chilblains ib. iDelicate Cream Cheese 58 INDEX TO ART OF COOKING, Etc. CHAPTER I. SOUPS and BROTHS, Page Sojp Vermicelli Do. white A-la-Reine Cressy Transparent Almond Sante, or G-avy and Bouille Ox Cheek Macaroni Calf's Head Peas White Peas Green Peas Onion Milk Milk, with Onions Rice Rice, or Potage du Ris Scotch Barley Broth Lorrmine Maigre Giblet Hodge Podge Cow Heel "VV'-ite Gravy Spring Hare Partridge Cray Fish Eel Oyster Mutton BrotTi Beef Broth Beef Drink 12 13 ib. 14 ib. 15 ib. 16 ib. 17 ib 18 ib. ib. 19 ib. 20 ib. 21 ib. ib. 22 23 ib. ib. 24 ib. 25 ib. ib. 26 ib. ib. 27 ib. Beef Broth to keep 28 Veal Broth ib. Chicken Broth ib. Spring Broth 29 Plum Porridge to keep • ib. Mock Turtle Soup ib. Portable Soup 30 CHAPTER H. Section 1. BOILING MEAT. To dress a Calf's Head 33 Grass Lamb ib. A Ham ib. Do. another way ib. Ham a-la-Braise 34 Tongues ib. ]N cat's Tongue ib. Leg of Mutton ib. Lamb's Head 35 Do. another way ib. Leg of Lamb 36 A Haunch, or Neck of Ve- nison ib. Pickled Pork ib. Pig's Pettitoes 37 Section 2. BOILING POULTRY. Turkeys 37 Chickens 38 Fowls 39 Rabbits and Ducks ib. Pigeons 40 Geese i^" Partridges ib. Pheasants • 4- ib 28' Snipes or Woodcocks INDEX. Section 3. Pago BOILING FISH. V age A Stubble rjoose 60 Turbct 42 Ducks ib. Uo. another way Turbot en Maigre ib. 43 Pigeons Larks *1 Salmon ib. Rabbits Section 3. lb. Do. whole for a large iompan) rib. Cod's Head ib. ROASTING GAME Whole Cod 44 Pheasants and Partridges 62 Salt Cod 45 Woodcocks or Snipes 63 Cod Sounda ib. Hares ib. Soles ib. Venison 64 Trout 46 Section 4. Pike ib. ROASTING FISH. Carp Mullets Mackarel Mackarel a-la-Bourgeoise 47 ib. ib. 48 To roast Sturgeon Roasted en Gras Lobsters 64 ib. ib. Herrings Flounders, Plaice, Perch, and ib. CHAPTER IV. Dabs ib. Section 1. Eels 49 BAKING. Sturgeon ib. BUTCHER'S MEAT Turtle t Rump of Beef a-la-Braise Calf's Head 65 Court Bouillon 51 ib. Pigs 66 CHAPTER HI. A Bullock's or Calf's Heart ib Section 1. Section 2. ROASTING IN GENERAL. BAKING FISH. BUTCHER'S MEAT. Cod's Head 67 Beef 53 Salmon ib. Mutton and liamb ib. Carp 68 Haunch of Mutton dressed like Eels and Lampreys ib. Venison 54 Herrings 69 A Fore-quarter of Lamb Tongues and Udders ib. Turbot ib. ib. Pike, with forcemeat 70 Veal ib. Mackarel ib. Pork 55 Sucking Pigs 66 CHAPTER V. Calf's Head 57 BROILING. Ham, or Gammon of Bacon 58 Section 1. Section 2. Beef Steaks 71 ROASTING POULTRY Mutton Steaks 72 Turkeys 58 Pork Chops ib. Fowls 59 Ox Palates ib. Chickens ib. Chickens 73 ^ een Geese 60 Pigeons- ib. INDEX Section 2. * CHAPTER VIL BROILING FISH. Section L Page STEJFING. resh Salmon 74 Jried Salmon ib. BUTCHER'S MEAT. Cod ib. Page Crimped do. 75 Fillet of Veal 86 Cod Sounds ib. Breast of Veal ib. Trout ib. Knuckle of Veal ib. MacUarel 76 Neck of Veal 87 a-la-Maitre d'llotel ib. Calf's Head ib. Haddocks and Whitings ib. Liver 88 Eels 77 Rump of Beef ib. pitch-cocked ib. Beef Steaks ib. Herrings ib. Goblets ib. Neat's Tongue 89 To dress Ox Palates ib. CHAPTER VL Ox Palates forced ib. O t To Marinade Ox Palates 90 Skction 1. FRYING. Section 2. STEJFING POULTRY. BUTCHER'S MEAT. Venison 78 Turkey en Pain Fowls 90 ib. Veal Cutlets ib. Chickens 91 N eck or Loin of Lamb 79 Goose Giblets ib. Sweetbreads ib. Ducks ib. Calf's Brains ib. with Green Peas 92 Beefsteaks 80 Pigeons ib. Ox Tongues ib. Pheasants ib. Ox Feet, or Cow-Heel ib. Partridges 93 Tripe ib. Cucumbers ib. Sausages 81 Peas a,nd Lettuce 94 Chickens ib. Artichoke Bottoms ib. Section 3. Celery ib. STEIFING FISH. Potatoes 82 Carp and Tench 94 Section 2. Barbel 95 Small Barbel ib. FRYING FISR Trout ib. Turbot 82 Pike ib. Carp 83 A Fricandeau of Pike 96 Tench ib. Cod ib. Soles 84 Soles, Plaice, and Flounders ib. Smelts ib. Lampreys and Eels ib. Eels ib. Prawns, Shrimps, and Cray- Lamprev* 85 Fish 97 Mullets* ib. Oysters ib. Herring? ib. Scolloped 9a Oysters ib. Muscles IT INDEX. CHAPTER VIII. I Section 1. I ILiSHING JND MINCING. BUTCHER'S MEAT. Page Calf's Head 98 Veal Minced 100 Mutton Hashed ib. Section 2. HASHING POULTRY AND GAME. Turkeys 100 another way 101 Fowls ib. Chickens ib. Partridges or Woodcocks ib. Wild Ducks 102 Hares ib. Hare Jugged ib. Venison 103 CHAPTER IX. Section 1. FRICASSEEING. BUTCHER'S MEAT, POUL TRY, &c. Neat's Tongue Sweetbreads White Calf's Feet a-la-Carmagot Tripe Chickens Rabbits While Brown CHAPTER X. Section 1. RAGOOS. BUTCHER'S MEAT Breast of Veal Neck of Veal Sweetbreads Brown Calf's Feet Pig's Feet and Ears P«ge 109 110 ib. Ill ib. Fore-quarter of House Lamb ib. Beef 112 Mutton ib. 103 ib. 104 ib. ib. 105 ib. Section 2. FRICASSEEING FISH, ^c. Cod Sounds 105 Soles 106 Eels ib. Flounders 107 Skate or Thoraback ib Oysters lOS Eggs ib Eggs with Onions and Mush- rooms ib. Mushrooms ib. Skirrits 109 Artichoke Bottoms ib. Section 2. RAGOOS OF POULTRY, VE- GETABLES, 8fc. A Goose 113 Livers of Poultry Oysters Muscles ib. 114 ib. Mushrooms 115 Artichoke Bottoms ib. Asparagus Cucumbers ib. 116 another way ib. Cauliflowers ib. French Beans ib. Endive or Succory 117 Cabbage Force-Maigre 118 Asparagus forced in French Rolls lb. Peas Frangois ib. CHAPTER XL GRAVIES, CU LIASES, AND OTHER SAUCES. Gravies 119 A very rich Gravy ib. Brown Gravy 120 Sauce Italian ib. Piquante ib. A Cullis for all sorts of Ragoos and rich Sauces 121 A Family Cullis ib. A Wi^»*« do. 3) INDEX. A. CulVi3 for Fish Ham Sauce Essence of Ham Sauce for Lamb Sauce for any kind of Roast Meat A White Sauce Sauce for most kinds of Fish Nonpareil Sauce a-la-Menehou Egg Sauce Bread Sauce Anchovy Sauce Shrimp Sauce Oyster Sauce To melt Butter Caper Sauce Shalot Sauce Page! Pagt 122 Sweetbreads of Veal a-la- ib.j Dauphine 134 123JS\veetbreads en Gordincere ib. ib.] Sweetbreads a-!a-daub 135 ■Scotch Collops ib. ib. Beef Collops 136 ib.lBeef a-la-daub ib. Beef Tremblent 137 Beef Kidneys a-la-Bourgeois ib. Beef a-la-mode ib. Beefa-la-Royal 138 Beef Olives.- ib. BouiUe Beef 139 Sirloin of Beef en Epigram ib. 124 ib. ib. ib. ib. 125 ib. ib. ib. 126 ib. Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls ib, Gooseberry Sauce Fennel Sauce Mint Sauce A relishing Sauce To crisp Parsley Sauce for Wild Ducks, Te J, &c. Pontiff Sauce Aspic Sauce Forcemeat Balls Lemon Pickle ib. ib. ib. ib. ib. 127 ib. ib. ib. 128 CHAPTER XII. MADE DISHES. Section 1. BUTCHER'S MEAT. Bombarded Veal 12S Fricandeau of Veal 129 Veal Olives ib. Grenadines of Veal 3Q, Veal Cutlets en Papilotes ib. Porcupine of a Breast of Veal ib. Fricandeau of Veal a-la-Bou geois Calf's Head Surprise Calf's Pluck Loin of Veal en Epigram Pillow of Veal Shoulder of Veal a-la-Picd montoise The inside of a Sirloin of Beef forced 140 A Round of Beef forced ib. Beefsteaks rolled 141 Beef Rump en Matelotte ib. BeefEscarlot 142 Tongue and Udder forced ib. Tripe a-la-Kilkenny ib. Harrico of Mutton ib. Shoulder of Mutton surprised 143 To dress Umbles of Deer ib. Mutton Kebobbed ib. Leg of Mutton a-la-haut Gout 144 Leg of Mutton roasted with Oysters ib. Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram ib Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys ib. Mutton Rumps a-Ia Braise 145 Mutton Chops in Disguise ib. A Shoulder of Mutton called Hen and Chickens 146 A Quarter of Lamb forced ib. Lamb's Bits ib. Lamb a-la-Bechamel 147 Lamb Chops en Casarole ib. Barbacued Pig ib. A Pig au Pere Duillet 14S A Pig Matelotte 148 Sheep's Trotters en Gratten 149 131 .o.tI Section 2. uTl M.-WE DISHES OF POUL- 133' TRY, ^r. I Turkey a-la-daub 149 ib. i in a hurry 150 INDEX. Page Fowls a-la-Braise 150 forced 151 mariiiadeJ ib. Chickens Chiringrate ib. a-la-Biaise 152 in savoury Jelly 153 and Tongues ib. j Pullets a-la-Sainte Menehout ib.j Ducks a-la-Braise 1541 a-la-Mode ib.j a-la-Frangoise I55i A Goose a-la-Mode ib. marinaded "^56, Pigeons Compote ib. French Pupton of Pigeons 157 Pigeons a- la-Braise ib. au Poise ib. Fricandeau of Pigeons 158 Pigeons a-la-Daub ib. a-la-Soussel 159 in a Hole ib. Jugged Pigeons ib. Partridges a-la-Braise 160 Pheasants a-la-Braise ib. Snipes or Woodcocks, in Sur- tout 161 Snipes, with Purslain Leaves ib. Broccoli Cauliflowers Green Peas Windsor Beans Kidney do. Spinach Cabbages Turnips Carrots Parsnips Potatoes Scolloped Hops Pago 167 168 ib. 169 ib. ib. ib. 170 ib ib. ib. .71 ib. Larks a-la-Frangoise 162 Florendine Hares ib. Rabbits 163 Jugged Hare ib. Rabbits Surprised ib. Rabbits en Casserole 164 Macaroni ib. Amulets ib. of Asparagus 165 Oyster Loaves ib. Mushroom Loaves ib. Eggs in Surtout ib. and Broccoli ib. Spinach and Eggs 166 To make Ramekins ib. CHAPTER XHL VEGETABLES AND ROOTS. Asparagus Artichokes 167 CHAPTER XIV. Section 1. BOILED PUDDINGS. Bread Pudding 171 Batter do. 173 Custard do. ib. Quaking do. ib. Sago do. 174 Marrow do. ib. Biscuit do. ib. Almond do. ib. Tansy do. ib. another way 175 Herb do. ib. Spinach do. ib. Cream do. 176 Hunting do. ib. Steak do. ib. Calf's Foot do. 177 Prune do. ib. Plum do. ib. Hasty do. ib. Oatmeal do. 178 Suet do. ib. Veal Suet do. ib. Cabbage do. ib. A Spoonful do. 179 White Puddings in Skins ib. Apple do. .'b. Apple Dumplings ib. Suet do. 180 Raspberry do ib. Yeast do. ib. INDEX. Page Norfolk Dumplings 180 Hard do. 181 Potato Pudding ib. Black do. ib. Section 2. BAKED PUDDINGS. Vermicelli Pudding 182 Sweetmeat do. ib. Orange do. ib. Lemon do. 183 Almond do. ib. Rice do. 184 Millet do. ib. Oat do. ib. Transparent do. 185 French Barley do. ib. Lady Sunderland's do. A. Citron do. 186 Chesnut do. ib. Quince do. ib. Cowslip do. 187 Cheese-curd do. ib. Apple do. ib. New- Market do. ib. A Grateful do. 188 Carrot do. ib. Yorkshire do. ib. CHAPTER XV. Section 1. PIES. MEAT PIES. Beefsteak Pie 190 Mutton do. ib. A Mutton Pie a-la-Perigord 191 Veal do. ib. A Rich Veal do. ib. Lamb or Veal do. in high taste ib. Venison Pasty 192 Olive Pie ib. Calf's Head do. 193 Feet do. ib. Swp«*Vead do. 194 Chesnirp Pork do. ib. ^evonsnire Squab do ib I Section 2. \PIES made of POULTRY ^c, I Page I A Plain Goose Pie 195 ! Duck do. ib. iPigeon do. 196 I Chicken do. ib. another way ib. Partridge do. 197 Hare do. ib. Rabbit do. ib. another way 198 Fine P-itties ib. To make any sort of Timbale 199 Section 3. FRUIT PIES. Apple Pie 199 Tart 200 Cherry Pie ib. Mince Pies 201 Another Method of making Mince Pies ib. To make Mincemeat 202 Orange and Lemon Tarts ib. Tart de Moi ib. Artichoke Pie ' 203 Vermicelli do. ib. Section 4. FISH PIES. Eel Pie 203 Turbot do. 204 Sole do. ib. Flounder do. ib. Carp do. 205 Tench do. ib. Trout do. ib. Salmon do. 206 Herring do. ib. liObster do. ib. CHAPTER XVL PANCAKES and FRITTERS. Pancakes 207 Cream Pancakes ib. Hire do. ib. INDEX. Page PinK-coloured Pancakes 208 Clary do. ib. Plain Fritters ib. Apple Fritters 209 Water Fritters ib. White Fritters ib. Hasty Fritters ib. Fritters Royal 210 Tansy Fritters ib. Rice do. ib. Chicken do. 211 Bilboquet do. ib. Orange do. ib. Strawberry do. 212 Do. another way ib. Raspberry Fritters ib. Currant do. ib. German do. 213 Almond Fraze ib. CHAPTER XVII. Skction 1. TARTS AND PUFFS Raspberry Tart 214 Green Almond Tart ib. Angelica Tarts 215 Rhubarb Tarts ib. Spinach Tarts ib. Petit Patties 216 Orange Tarts ib. Chocolate Tarts ib. Section 2. PUFFS, Sfc. Sugar Puffs 217 Lemon Puffs ib. Almond Puffs ib. Chocolate Puffs ib. Curd Puffs 218 Wafers ib. Fine Cheesecakes 219 Bread Cheesecakes 220 Rice Cheesecakes ib. Almond Cheesecakes ib. Do. another way lb. Lemon Cheesecakes 22} Citron Cheesecakes ib. Section 2. CUSTARDS Plain Custards 221 Do. another way 222 Baked Custards ib. Rice Custards ib. Almond Custards ib. Lemon Custards ib Orange Custards 223 CHAPTER XVIII. Section 1. CHEESECAKES AND CUS- TARDS. C?zeesecakes 218 Common Cheesecakes 219 CHAPTER XIX. CAKES, BISCUITS, ^c A Common Cake 224 A rich Seed Cake ib. A Pound Cake plain ib. Cream Cakes *ib. Wedding or Christening Cake 225 Rice Cakes ib. Gingerbread Cakes ib. Bath Cakes or Buns 226 Shrewsbury Cakes ib. Portugal Cakes ib. Saffron Cakes ib. Prussian Cakes 227 Queen Cakes ib. Almond Cakes ib. Little Plum Cakes 228 Ratifia Cakes ib. Apricot Cakes ib. Orange Cakes 229 Lemon Cakes ib. Currant Calies ib. Whigs 230 Common Biscuits ib. Sponge Biscuits ib. Spanish Biscuits ib. Drop Biscuits 231 Lemon Biscuits ib. Macar oca's iU- INDEX. ix Page ! Pago tJ'.een Caps 231 Various Fruit, CusUrd Ices, Black Caps 232 &c. 241 Snow Balis ib. i Raspbsrry Jam 242 Strawberry do. ib. Apricot do. ib. CHAPTER XX. i Gooseberry do. ib. j Black Currant do. 243 Section 1. jlceings for Cakci? or various THE ART OF CONFEC- 1 Articles in Confectionary ib. TIONARY. Do. a.iother way ib. The Method of preparing Su - Sfxtion 3. gars and Colours Smooth or Candy Suga 233 ib. JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. Bloom Sugar ib. Calf's Feet Jelly 243 Feathered do. ib. Hartshorn do. 244 Crackled do. ib. Orange do. 245 Carmel do. ib. Blanc Mange ib. Red Colour do. 235 Jaunmange 246 \i\iie do. ib. Black Currant Jelly ib. Yellow do. ib. Riband do. 247 Green do ib. Savoury do. ib. Devices in Sugar ib. Common Syllabubs 248 Sugar of Roses in various fi- Whipt do. ib. gures 236 Solid do. ib. Lemon do. Ik. Section 2. Everlasting do. 249 CREAMS AND JAM'i A Hedgehog ib. Flummery 250 Orange Cream 236 French do. ib. Lemon do. ib. Green Melon in Flummery 251 Hartshorn do. 237 Solomon's Temple in do. ib. Burnt do. ib, another way ib. Section 4. Blanched do. ib. Cream a-la-Fraiichipane 238 PRESERVING FRUIT, <5t. Whipt Cream ib. Apricots 252 Spanish do. ib. Peaches ib. Steeple do. ib. Quinces 253 Barley do. 239 Barberries ib. Pistachio do. ib. Pine Apples 254 Tea do. ib. Grapes ib. Coffee do. ib. Morello Cherries 255 Chocolate do. 240 Green Codlir.s ib. another way ib. Golden Pippms ib. Pompadour do. ib. Green-Gage Pluvw 256 Ratifia do. lb. Oranges ik. Raspberry dc. 241 Raspberries 251 [ce do. ib. Strawberries a No. 25. b INDEX. Page I Currants in Bunches 258 Gooseberries 259| Do. in imitation of Hops ib. I Damsons 2601 Walnuts 261 Cucumbers 2621 I Section 5. 1 DRYING AND GANDYINCk Dried Apricots 263 Peiches ib. Candied Angelica 264 Green-Gage Plums dried ib. Dried Cherries ib. Damsons 265 Candied Cassia ib. Lemon and Orange Peels Candied ib. Candied Ginger ib. Horehound 266 Almond Cake, or Gateau Noga ib. Candied Rhubarb Cakes ib. Compote of Crude Orange 267 of Apples ib. of Pears ib. of Quinces ib. Orange Chips ib. Marmalade 268 Apricot do. ib. Quince do. ib. Transparent do. 269 Burnt Almonds ib. Raspberry Paste ib. Currant do. 270 Gooseberry do. ib. Skction 6. CHAPTER XXI PICKLING, Page Mangoes 274 Girkins 275 Cucumbers 276 in Slices ib. To keep Cucumbers 277 Walnuts ib. Red Cabbage 2S0 Onions ib. Kidney, or French Beans 281 Barberries ib. Beet Roots 282 Radish Pods ib. Cauliflowers ib. Artichokes 283 Nasturtiums ib. Mushrooms ib. Mushroom Catsup 284 Powder ib. Walnut Catsup ib. Indian Fickle 285 Asparagus ib. Parsley Pickled Green 286 Peaches ib. Golden Pippins 287 Grapes ib. Red Currants 288 Caveach or Pickled Macki ire] ib. Smelts 289 Oysters ib. Anchovies 290 Ox Palates ib. ORNAME^rs IN CONFEC riCNARY. CHAPTER XX^II. COLLARING VENISON. ARTIFICIAL FRUIT A Dish of Snow Moonshine Floating Islaiu! Desert Island Chinese Temple (Breast of Veal [Breast of Mutton Beef 271 'Calf's Head ib.lPig 272[Eels 273iMackarei ib. Salmon 292 ib. 293 294 ib. 295 ih ib INDEX. CHAPTER XXI 11. SKCTIi)N 1. 'Orange Posset I White Caudle POTTING MEAT anT- !■> . TRY. Venison Hares Marble Veal Tongues Geese and Fowls Beef Pigeons Woodcocks Salmon Ijobster Section 2. FISH. CHAPTER XXIY CURING nf various Kimh cj MEATS, c^c Hams Ho. various Bacon Mutton Hams Beef do. Neat's Tongue Hung Beef Hunting do. Pickled Pork Mock Brawn Turkey Soused To make fine Sausages Oxford Sausages I'i^SejWhite Wine Whey 29 6, Water Gruel 297 1 Barley Gruel ib. i-Orgeat Paste ib.! ° ^^^\ CHAPTER XXVH. 299 1 MADE WINES, ^c ib.! Raisin Wine An excellent Wine Currant Wine ^j Gooseberry Wine ^^^1 Mulberry Wine '^"^ Raspberry Wine I Damson Wine I Orange Wine liemon W ine Grape Wine rjr,,,' Cherry Wine '^"-' ' Elder W^ine Apricot Wine Quince Wine Blackberry Wine Turnip Wine Birch Wine Rose Wine Ginger Wine Balm Wine Mead Wine CHAPTER XXY. To keep Green Peas till Christmas Tc keep Gooseberries To keep Mushrooms To bottle Damsons 3031 ib. 304 ib. 305 ib. 306 ib. 307j '^ Raspberry Brandy [Orange Brandy j Lemon Brandy Black Cherry Brandy lb. 309 ib. Page 312 ib. ib. 313 ib ib ib. 314 ib. 315 ib. 316 ib. ib. 317 ib. 318 ib. 319 ib. II). e2o ib. 321 ib. 322 ib. ib. 323 ib. 324 ib. CHAPTER XXY HI. CORDIAL jrATERS. .Rose Water 324 ^.^,^ I Lavender Water 325 '''^•jPeppermint Water ib. Surfeit Water ib. CHAPTER XXV L POSSETS arvl GRUELS. Sack Possets 31 1 Wine Po^et 312 Ale Posset CHAPTER XXIX. Section 1. THE ART OF BREIFING. 328 ib. On the Copper, &c. Vessels for Brewing Skction 3. , The Mash-tub, Penstrff, &c. 329 1 Section 4. i Of the proper time of Brew Page; Skctiow \ 327iOf Bjtf ing Ma.t Liquors ^To PrcLerve Yeast CHAPTER XXX. ing 332 Section 5. Water proper for Brewing Section 6. The Quality of the Malt and Hops Skction 7. The process of Brewing Section 8. The proper Mf;"vagemcnt of "" Lio'--A 341 ^ , i DIR E C TIONS for TR Uf ' POULTRY, ^c. Turkeys Fowls Chickens Geese 334I Pigeons iAVildFowl oog; Pheasants avi Partridgor I Woodcocks t ad Snipes I Larks Hares Rabbits Pig, 342 345 JNG 346 348 ib. 349 ib. 350 ib. 351 ib. lb. •ca V 2 195^ v^^ ^- / ^o> ^ /^i^M '';^d« ^ ^» € > -i o ^ ^ ^. IS" ^ > • , -^ V ,. ^ * ^ '^ ,^^ ^ -i -