I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I !|H--^-fc^^^ I I UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, f FAEM-aARDElSTI^a AND SEED-GROWING. ■yr^o FRANCIS BRILL, V OF THE MATTITtrCK (L. I.) SEED-FAEM, FOEMEBLY MAKKET-GARDEKEE AND SEED-GEOWER AT NEWARK, N. J. NEW TORE: ^ORANGE JUDD AND COMPANY, 245 BROADWAY. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1872, by ORANGE JUDD & CO., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. ossible without covering the heart. Holding the plant with the left hand, pass the point of the dibble down, close to the plant^ car- rying with it a little soil, which press firmly against the root^ and knock loose soil into the hole left by the dibble. 18 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. Soil pressed against tlie stalk near the surface has a tendency to prevent the earth from washing down and settling about the root, and can not j^ossibly be of anywise. The operation of transplanting should always be done, if in spring or autumn, while the earth is fresh, as plant- ing in dry soil is very tedious, the holes filling as fast as made. For summer transplanting it is best to prepare and mark out the land in good season. When the rain conies, be ready to go at it while the soil is in condition, and unless the amount of rain is such as to make the earth thin mud, do not stop, for there may not soon be another chance. It sometimes may occur that the sum- mer rains may not be sufficient to thoroughly saturate the soil and insure growth of the plants. In this case " pud- dling " must be resorted to. ISTear the plant-bed make a hole about one foot diameter, and six or eight inches deep ; into this pour water, and with a hoe mix to the consistency of paste or thin mud, which will adhere to the roots. Let the plants be held evenly in the hands, and the roots passed a few times through the mud as each handful is pulled. Lay them in baskets, protect from the sun and air as much as possible, and have them trans- planted very soon after they are pulled. In taking up plants from the cold-frame, use a spade to raise them, thus securing whole roots with considerable earth attached. Plants in hot-beds should be saturated well with water before j^ulling, to accomplish the same object. The work of transplanting may be greatly facilitated by adopting a regular system of operations. Let one man attend to pulling the plants after enough have been drawn for a start. Have an active boy for each man to carry and drop the plants. If desirable to have the plants at even distances in the rows, mark the same on a pole, and by it plant the middle one of every seven or nine rows, which answers as a guide for the boys, who INSECTS. 19 can drop the plants on the other rows, either side, directly opposite. The top of the plant should be laid to the left hand of the planters, to be the more readily taken up for depositing in the hole, which, by the way, should be made with a dibble in the right hand while the plant is being picked up with the left. It is not advisable to drop out plants of celery, leek, etc., which are set close in the rows, but here time may be saved by having one person to carry the plants in a basket, and hand them out as wanted by the planters. Should watering have to be resorted to, let it be done while there is no sun on the plants, as this would scorch the leaves, and the surface of the soil be apt to bake. The best time for watering is after sundown, or at least late in the afternoon. In transplanting into cold-frame or hot-bed, let the earth be freshly dug or raked, and after setting the plants, partially shade them for a few days, but do not wholly exclude the light. Use two broad boards to step on ; the face of one of these may be notched out at the distances required between the plants, when regularity is desired. INSECTS. The insects which annoy the gardener and damage or destroy his crops are of several kinds. The Striped Bug is very destructive to young plants of cucumber, melon, squash, etc. Tobacco-dust, bone-flour, ashes, soot, etc., are used to destroy or drive them away, but I have never found anything equal to shell-lime, aiV' slaked^ for their destruction. The Cabbage Flea, a small, black insect, which attacks young plants of cabbage, turnip, etc., is also very de- structive, but easily conquered by early applications of the last-named remedy in liberal quantity. The Cabbage Louse (I use the common names), a small, 20 FARM-GAKDENING AND SEED-GKOWING. bluish insect, often infests crojDS of growing cabbages. They are not particularly destructive to these, but when a mass of them collect on the heads, as they frequently do, their appearance is spoiled, as they can scarcely be gotten off without removing all the outer leaves, and thus damaging the sale. These j)ests, though not very destructive to the growing cabbages, are very much so to the plant when producing seed. It was only a few years ago that I had a crop of seed cabbages entirely destroyed by them. They first appear, in small clusters, at the tip of the branches about the time the blossoms are coming, and if not immediately attended to, soon envelop the leaves and stalks to their total destruction. They are generally the worst in dry seasons, and some- times a heavy shower, before they get much start, will destroy them. I do not know of any positive remedy ; lime will check but not destroy them. As soon as they appear on seed-cabbage, tlie tip on which they lodge must be nipped off, and attention must be paid to them every day until the stalks and pods are quite hard. A new eneray to the cabbage family has lately ap- peared in the form of a green grub, which eats away the leaves, and in some sections whole fields have been destroyed. There is no positive remedy yet found against them, though many have been tried, with varying success. They are not yet common in this section, hence I have not had occasion to experiment with them. Another very injurious insect is the one which produces what is known as " club-root " in cabbages, cauliflower, etc. Various theories have been advanced as the cause of this malformation, but it is, beyond a doubt, caused by a maggot which eats into the root, causing it to swell in various shapes, and destroying the plant. I have no doubt that the eggs are deposited in the manure, and so taken to the field ; the maggot there hatches, and at once commences the work of destruction. My conclusions in INSECTS. 21 this matter have been arrived at from observations made oa three different crops of radishes, and here, to be the better understood, I will say I believe the Cabbage Mag- got and the Radish Maggot to be one and the same. A few years ago I sowed three pieces of land with the White Summer Radish, one on land manured with stable manure at the time of sowing, the next without manure, where a liberal application had been made the iDrevious year, and the other without manure, but on one end of the land a heap of stable-manure had lain during the winter, and was removed to adjacent land for an early crop. The radishes on the first piece were mostly mag- got-eaten ; those on the second were not affected in the least, nor yet were those on the third bed, except where the manure heap had been. The theory that hog-manure will produce club-root is not entirely unfounded; for, while it may not be the immediate cause, yet no doubt, from its nature, it is the most attractive to the fly in seek- ing a place to deposit her eggs, and by it more are carried to the ground than in horse or cow manure. I firmly believe that much depends on the previous treatment of manure, such as heating, turnnig, etc. (by which the eggs may be destroyed), for the prevention of club-root. Shell-lime is an effectual preventive, and about Newark, N^. J., market-gardeners apply it heavily once in about five years with good results. Undoubtedly the maggots are killed by it before they can begin the work of destruction. Where lime can not be had conveniently, and even where it can, T advise jDut- ting the manure, especially that intended for cabbages and cauliflower, into a large heap, letting it heat, and occasionally working it over to prevent scorching. Henderson advises bone-flour as a remedy for club-root. One ihing is certain, if my view is correct ; we have in this valuable fertilizer the best substitute for stable- 22 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. manure, and one that is free from the eggs which produce the Cabbage Maggot. COLD-FRAMES OR COLD-BEDS. These are constructed of common plank, usually about twelve inches high at the back, and eight inches at the front; in width according to the length of the sashes to be used, and in length to suit the number of sashes re- quired ; the planks must be supported by durable posts firmly set in the ground, to which they are nailed. They should always be erected in a sheltered position, facing southward, if possible, and on ground nearly or quite level, or perhaps gently sloping to the south. Some use slides upon which to run the sashes up and down ; these are very convenient. They are placed at such a distance apart that the edges of the sashes rest on the slides, and are separated by a narrow strip, thus making the opera- tion of airing quite easy. The slides are dovetailed into the plank ; hence they are held firm, and yet can be readily removed when occasion may require. The soil of a cold-bed should be light, dry, and free from stones, and enriched according to its intended use ; for if designed only as a place in which to preserve plants dui'ing winter, moderate fertility is all that is required j but if used for growing and forcing crops for market, it must be made and kept rich by liberal applications of fertilizers. The soil should be spaded deep and finely pulverized twice before planting, adding well-rotted stable-manure and bone-flour, which should be thoroughly Avorked into the soil in quantity according to the intended use of the bed, the surface finely raked, and the front slightly raised. This is from the fact that the sashes inclining to the front carry the water that way, more or less leakage taking place, beside the lower board shading inside of the frame renders the lower part wet and cold, and a little elevation COLD-FRAMES OR COLD-BEDS. 23 of soil here has a good eifect. Cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce plants are preserved in cold-beds, which renders them hardy and capable of being transplanted very early in the spring, and to be harvested in time to allow a sec- ond crop to be grown on the same ground. The seeds should be sown about the middle of Septem- ber, and to make a sure thing it is best to sow on the tenth and again on the twentieth of the month, each time using more seed than sufficient to produce the re- quisite number of plants. I might here add that cabbage and cauliflower seed will give about three thousand and lettuce-seed six thousand plants to an ounce. Select a piece of good soil ; plow or spade to a depth of eight inches; make the surface fine and even by thor- ough raking ; spread the seed thin over the entire surface, and cover by raking in or sprinkling fine soil over the whole to a depth of one half an inch, slightly pressing with the back of the spade, and if the earth is dry sprinkle with water in the evening. As soon as the plants have formed the second leaves, or become large enough to handle conveniently, they should be trans- planted into the cold-frame, the soil being prepared as above directed, and it will be found advisable to prepare the bed just immediately preceding the transplanting, the soil then possessing a natural moisture, which is a condition far preferable to that presented when the sur- face has become dry, and one which can not be obtained by artificial watering. It is very important here, as in all transplanting, that the earth be firmly pressed against the root. Cabbage and cauliflower must be set down to the first leaves, or as deep as possible without covering the hearts. By doing this, the stalk is more thoroughly protected, and in case the plants become severely frozen, the frost will draw out through the earth, and they will not be injured as when exposed directly to the snn and air. 24 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. Lettuce, however, must not be planted very deep ; if the whole of the root be covered, it will be quite sufficient. The plants may be shaded for a day or two, and if the earth is dry a light sprinkling of water may be given, but this will not be necessary if the earth is fresh and has been pressed firmly to the roots. The plants may be set two and a half by two inches apart; but they will be stronger and better by setting three inches each way, ex- cept lettuce, which will have ample room at the distance first named. They should remain exposed until the ap- proach of severe weather, w^hen the sashes must be put on, and during very severe frosts beds of cauliflower may be further protected at night by mats, old carpet, or the like thrown over the sashes. Always bear in mind that these plants are placed in the cold-frame for preservation, and not to make growth ; hence, after they have become rooted, the bed must be kept rather dry than otherwise, and the most important point of all is, to give an abun- dance of air. Whenever the thermometer, in the shade on a still day, shows ten degrees, the sashes may be pushed down one or two inches from the top ; at twenty degrees, they may be pushed down nearly half-way, and at thirty degrees they can be drawn entirely ofi*. Where slides are not used the sashes may be raised by means of wedges placed under the upper end to correspond as nearly as pos- sible with the above. These plants are almost hardy in the open ground, and as the glass over them concentrates the sun's rays and heats the air in the bed, great care must be taken lest the plants become drawn thereby. There is much greater danger of keeping them too warm than too cold. Especially is it very important that they should be ex- posed for a fortnight before setting in the open ground, and if they have been kept cool and not drawn, the frames may be left open during frosty nights to harden the plants, guarding against snow, which would be liable to destroy HOT-BEDS. 25 some of the plants by breaking the hearts. To guard against the possibility of this, where sashes are removed to use on other frames, it is well to have at hand a supply of shutters, of the same size as the sashes. Cold-frames are extensively used about New- York City for forcing lettuce, cucumbers, and parsley, and may be used to advantage for producing cabbage, cauliflower, let- tuce, and celery plants early in the spring, sweet-potato plants later, herbs for transplanting, forcing beets, carrots, and radishes, forwarding cucumbers, melons, squashes, and lima beans for transplanting to the oj^en ground, and har- dening off tomato, pepper, and other plants, all of which are duly noticed under their respective heads. HOT-BEDS. These differ from cold-frames mainly in being mostly composed of partly fermented stable-manure, which gives off great heat, and when properly worked and compactly formed continues to do so for a long time, and this, with the assistance of the sun, the heat of which is concentrated by the glass of the sashes, enables us to force or hasten the growth of many vegetables much in advance of the natural seasons, and further aids us in growing such vegetables as are natives of a tropical climate, by forwarding the plants, and which on account of the shortness of our seasons could not be successfully grown, if the sowing of the seeds of such was delayed until the earth had become sufficiently warmed to allow them to germinate. There are various Avays of making a hot-bed, but I will only describe the two leading methods. A stationary hot- bed is made by digging a pit about two and a half feet deep, boarding up the sides and ends to about one foot above ground on the back and three inches on the front, in width and length according to the size and number of the sashes to be used, and furnished with slides, as in the 2 26 FARM-GAKDENING AND SEED-GROWING. cold-frame, to assist in giving air, etc. Into this pit place one foot of leaves or coarse litter, and manure to a depth of one and a half foot, whicli must be trodden down rather firmly, the surface made even, and covered with from three to six inches of soil, as the case may require. This style is best suited for forcing lettuce, rhubarb, asparagus, dwarf cabbages, and such vegetables; but I much prefer for general use the movable hot-bed, which is made by exca- vating one and a lialf foot deep, two feet wider than the frame to be used, and two feet longer than will accommo- date two frames of four sashes each, and not boarding up. In this pit place one foot of leaves or coarse litter, and on that one foot or more of manure, well shaken up, but do not tread it down — the only pressure necessary being a light patting with the back of the fork to even the surface. Throw two planks across on which to walk, and stepping on them, place on the frames, one foot from either end, and leaving one foot on the outside, back and front ; square the frame by means of a sash ; put in three inches of soil, fill- ing mostly around the sides and ends, to assist these parts in settling, as the center will naturally settle firs-t ; put on the sashes, bank up the outside, especially on the north, with coarse manure. Choose a mild day for the work, and let it be done as expeditiously as possible, that the manure may not be too much chilled. The object of having the pit wider than the frame, is to allow the manure, earth, and frame to settle evenly in a body. The frames can be made from ordinary thirteen- foot plank, accommodating four sashes, six by three feet, with sliders, without w^aste, and will be full heavy enough for two men to handle, being two planks on the back and one on the front, braced with pieces of joist in the corners and center, to which the planks are nailed, the ends being raised the thickness of the sashes. The sliders can be dovetailed in the same as the cold- frame and the frames made without bottoms. By either FOKCING-PIT. 27 metliod, when the bed lias stood three days, the sashes and sliders should he removed, the soil raked even and fine, and as much more added as may be necessary, which will depend on the crop to be grown, dh*ections for which are given under each separate head. It is very important to have good manure, and to have it well worked over before using, to insure success in mak- ing a hot-bed. Manure as it comes from the stables is generally too coarse, and makes too rank a heat. It should be thrown in a heap, and when heated, which may be known by the vapor arising from it, the whole must be turned and forked over, and this sometimes repeated four or five difierent times, but usually three good workings will temper it, the last being given three or four days be- fore it is to be used. The manure that is shipped from ISTew York City, by boat and railroad, is generally in good condition for making a hot-bed. The soil should be light, free, and moderately rich, though I have found that which has long been used, to have a tendency to cause the young plants to damp oif, and I would recommend using one half well-rotted sods and one half old soil, thoroughly mixed. Select a sheltered, warm position for a hot-bed, and one that may be permanent, as the same pits or trenches last from year to year, the earth and manure being removed to a heap, and the frames, if movable, snugly stored away to do duty again the following and many successive years. FORCING-PIT. This is an arrangement similar to the stationary hot- bed frame, and can be used for forwarding rhubarb, cauli- flower, cabbage, etc., without resorting to the use of hot manure, and sometimes a frame is used, the same as a movable hot-bed frame, but built one plank higher back 28 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. and front. Directions for using are given under the head of such vegetables as are grown in this manner. TOOLS AND THEIK USES. The tools required in gardening and seed-growing are quite numerous. Various patterns of different kinds have been invented, some improvements on the old style, but many of no prac- tical value. I shall avoid as much as possible recommend- ing any particular pattern of either tool of which I make mention, but leave the selection to the judgment of those who may have occasion to use them ; because what suits one may not suit another. Plow. — Use a plow which will positively invert, that is, completely turn over the soil. Take a narrow furrow, and while it is important to plow deep, yet it is not expedient to do so until the land is made comparatively rich. Plow j&ve or six inches deep, following with the subsoil plow to a depth of six inches more. At the next plowing run the sur- face plow deeper, and so continue each time until a depth of ten inches or more is attained, frequently applying manure, without which deep plowing is injurious, but with it vastly beneficial. Subsoiling may be done frequently with good results, and the depth increased gradually to eighteen inches. Harrow. — The most suitable harrow is made square, about five and a half feet either way, with four cross- pieces, which, with the front and back, each contain al- ternately eight and seven teeth, nine inches apart, set diagonally, so as to cut four and a half inches. The teeth should be made of one-inch square iron, pointed and hardened, and the points should project eight inches and the heads one inch. The ground should be twice gone over, then reverse TOOLS AND THEIIl USES. 29 the harrow and " back it." This will generally make the surface fine, but if not, go once more over with the teeth and again with the back of the harrow. When the ground is in fit condition to work, it can be made suffi- ciently fine and even by skillful "back-harrowing," to admit of sowing nearly all kinds of seeds, but occasion- ally to get a bed in prime order the surface must be well raked. Cultivator. — The '* harrow-tooth " cultivator is requisite in garden crops while the plants are small. Afterward, the "broad-toothed" or any of the im- proved styles may be used, always going twice each way. Always bear in mind that the " cultivator " is better to prevent than to destroy weeds, so commence early and re- peat often ; never wait until the weeds can be seen. lloe. — The operation of hoeing is, in gardening, a very important one. It is necessary to hoe deep to loosen the soil ; and thoroughly pulverize it to eflfectually destroy young weeds. A steel-toothed rake may be used in the manner of a hoe to advantage in disturbing the soil before the weeds get any start, which, by the way, should never be allowed. The " pronged hoe " is effectual in loosening the soil and preventing the weeds growing; taken in time, more work can be done with one than with a common hoe in the same time. The " push or scuffle hoe " is very useful for loosening the surface soil, between rows of small j^lants before the other hoes can be used, and some crops can be worked almost entirely with them. They arc also useful in cleaning ground for a second croj). Sizes vary from four to twelve inches, all of which are useful. Spade. — Spade cultivation is no longer considered the one great point in gardening. Henderson very truthfully remarks, " No digging in the ordinary way can pulverize 30 FAEM-GAKDEXING AND SEED-GROAVIXG. the soil so thoroughly as can be done by the plow and harrow, nor no trenching much surpass in its results that done by thorough subsoiling." Still, cold-beds and small pieces of ground must sometimes be dug, and it is advisable that it be done well. Never set the spade far back ; or, in other words, take a little earth at one time, invert it, and pulverize well with the spade, if one is used, but the " spading-fork " will be found a good substitute, and much better for this purpose. Rake* — ^The ordinary wooden rake contains ten teeth ; those best adapted to garden use have fourteen. In cov- ering seed, rake lengthwise with the rows, taking from two to four rows together, breaking lumps with the back of the rake. In smoothing the surface for sowing, rake as much as possible from the sides, to avoid unnecessary treading over the bed. Steel rakes have fine sharp teeth, and are very useful where it is important to have the sur- face soil extra fine. When used as a substitute for the hoe, various sizes are necessary to accommodate the width between the rows. Garden-Line. — This is very essential where straight rows are desired, and such certainly always should be. Let the line be strong, though not heavy, as long as the lands, and for convenience be wound on a reel, and have a sharp-pointed iron at each end for fastening into the earth. To get the line perfectly straight, set the pin at one end, unreel the line, draw it tiglit^ and fasten the reel- pin firmly in the earth ; return to the center, raise the line with the thumb and finger, four or five feet from the ground, and let it quickly descend — ^using the line in fact in the same manner as a carpenter uses a chalk-line. Markers. — These are indispensable in marking rows for sowing seeds or setting plants. To make them, take a piece of 4x4 joist six and a half feet long, to which attach a handle and cross-piece, the whole forming the letter "["• TOOLS AND THEIR USES. 31 To the joist, or head, nail strips two inches wide, pro- jecting six inches, and slightly sharpened at the ends. Two markers are requisite, on one of which set the strips or teeth, ten inches apart on one side, and fifteen inches on the reverse. On the other set the teeth on opposite sides, twelve and eighteen inches apart. By this plan fou with wooden teeth nailed on the cross-piece, any required distance apart, lap- ping the outer tooth in the inner drill, and so on until the bed is finished. *' I adopt the plan described above, that is, ten-inch OXION. 121 rows, leaving every seventh drill for a path, but some prefer twelve and others fourteen and sixteen inches space between the rows, sowing every drill. Use a seed-sower for depositing the seed, as it can be done easier, quicker, and more evenly than by hand, and cover with a common wooden rake. From three to five pounds of seed will be required for an acre, and until the ground has become rich sow very thin. " The same land may be used for an indefinite time. Be sure to use only new seed, as it is not sure to grow the second year, and is entirely worthless thereafter. As soon as the rows can be plainly seen, loosen the soil with a push or scuffle lioe, running close to the rows, and when necessary weed in the rows by hand, repeating as often as requisite to keep clean, but avoid cutting the onions as they begin to form. The common hoe may be used to advantage the second cleaning, to loosen the soil. Should there be places where they are in bunches, which sometimes will happen, they may be thinned to one or two inches apart. When the tops have become nearly dry pull the onion, lay in rows, and when thoroughly dry cut away the tops and store the onions in a cool, dry place, if they are to be kept, choosing a dry time for this business. Unless one has suitable storage room it is as well to sell the crop from the field, and though the price may not be so high as in winter or spring yet the risks of spoiling are avoided. The main varieties of onions are Large Red, Yellow Dutch, Yellow Danvers, and White Portugal ; the first being considered the best for main crop from seed, and is the favorite in market, the second the most suitable for sets. " In conclusion I would say to those who contemplate onion culture, try it on a small scale at first, and after ascertaining by experience the amount of labor necessary to be performed on a given quantity of land, cost of manures, etc., as well as the amount of money to be 6 122 FAKM-GAEDENING AND SEED-GROWING. realized from a crop, it can be determined whether it will pay." The foregoing article explains the general method of growing the crop, but as I propose to make every subject complete, I will also give directions for marketing, grow- ing the seed, etc. Preparing for Market. — The ripe onions may be shipped in bags or barrels, and should only be packed when thoroughly dry. Green onions from sets are marketed in bunches when scarcely half-grown, and from thence until the tops are dry, using twelve to a bunch at first, and reducing the number to six or seven as they increase in size. It is well to use such as show signs of running to seed, first, as they do not form large bulbs, but are quite as good as any when young. The onions must be pulled, removed to the market- house, divested of decaying outer leaves, nicely washed, and tied in round bunches. When the tops have become partially dry and the bulb nearly ripe, they liiay be bunched without washing. Growing Sets. — Onion sets now form an important article in the seedsman's stock, and may be grown with profit by the seed-grower who has land suited to their production. The ground should be of a light character, free from stones or gravel, in good condition, though not rich, and be prepared the same as directed for growing the onions, ex- cepting of course the manure. Sow very early in the spring. Mark out rows ten inches apart, sowing six rows to a bed, and leaving every seventh for a path, using thirty pounds of seed to the acre, that they may be very thick, to pre- vent them growing large, the object of which has been already explained, and I may here add that the smaller the sets the better, and the higlier price they will com- ONioif. 123 mand, those scarcely larger than Marrowfat peas being preferred by gardeners to a larger size. They must be kept scrupulously clean, and if the growth is over-rank the tops must be pressed down by rolling, or otherwise, to cause the roots to " bulb." , When the tops are partially dry, cut or shear them off, lift the sets by running a trowel under them, casting into a No. 3 sieve, by which the earth can be removed. Ex- pose them for a few days to the sun and air, covering at night. When fairly dry, store in lofts, three or four inches thick, and upon the approach of cold weather place them in heaps and cover with mats or straw. When needed for sale or use, run them once or twice through the fan-mill. They should not be moved or handled while in a partially frozen state, nor kept long in bulk after the cold weather is past. Seed. — Onions for seed are grown ia the same manner as for market, and may be stored and wintered over as directed for sets. They are, however, when full grown, more easily injured by hard freezing than the sets, consequently a warm place must be selected, and more protection be given, especially with the White Portugal, which is very susceptible of in- jury from freezing. The selections should be made in accordance with the form, color, and general distinguishing points of the variety, and a few extra choice specimens be planted for stock seed. The soil in which to grow onion seed should be moderately rich, but if over-abundantly manured, the blossoms are liable to blight and no seed be produced. As soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, plow and harrow thoroughly, turning under a light dress- ing of manure, unless it was well manured the previous season. Plow furrows six inches deep and three feet apart, in which set the onions four to six inches apart, and cover with a hoe. Onions for seed maybe planted in the 124 FAEM-GAEDENING AND SEED-GKOWING. summer to good advantage, in the manner here given, pro- vided they can be put out early, before the first of Sep- tember, to insure a strong growth before winter. They will stand the winter without protection, the seed will be produced earlier than by spring planting, and the time can be better spared than at the latter season. When the seed is ripe, which may be known by the upper part of the stalks together with the seed-pods becoming yellow, and a portion of the latter l)ursting open, the heads must be cut, placed in barrels, carried to the loft, and spread thin. When thoroughly dry, they may be thrashed and passed through the fan-mill. By repeating this several times the most of the seed will be clean, but there will still remain a part mixed with such pods as have become hard, which can only be sepa- rated by washing. This is done by placing a quantity into a tub of watei;, stirring a few moments, and gently pouring the water off. This will remove all pods and light seed, and the heavy seed which remains in the bottom must be spread on boards to dry. The whole crop may be washed in this manner, after twice running through the fan-mill, if deemed advisable, as it will not be injured by the process, provided a clear bright day is selected for the purpose, and the seed for some time after spread thin in a loft. It must not be put in bulk until thoroughly dry. The final cleaning may be accomplished by No. 14 sieve. The seed can not be depended on to germinate after one year, though a part will grow at two years old when well kept. VAPwIETIES. Large Red Wethersfield. — This is the variety princi- pally grown from seed. Bulb round and broad, flattened at the top ; skin deep red. PARSLEY. 125 Yellow DanverS. — The best of the "yellows" for grow- ing from seed. Bulb nearly round ; skin brownish yel- low. Yellow Dlltcb* — The variety generally used for produc- ing sets. Bulb round, broad, and flat ; skin clear bright yellow. White Portugal, — The leading " white " variety. Usually commands a good price in the market, but owing to its liability to mildew, is an uncertain crop. Does not keep well, and when grown for seed should be set out in the summer if any way possible. Bulb round, broad, and flat ; skin silvery white, sometimes tinged with pink. Potato Onion* — This does not produce seed, but is pro- pagated by a natural increase of from four to six bulbs, which form from the parent-root. They are the earliest dry onions which come to market. Plant early in spring, in light, rich soil, marking rows fifteen inches apart, three inches deep, setting the bulbs six inches apart, and entirely under ground. Around these the young bulbs form and grow, and they should be lightly covered with soil, in process of hoeing. Keep free from weeds, and when ripe treat the same as those grown from seed. They do not keep well unless carefully pre- served. PARSLEY. The demand for this vegetable is rather limited, and as yet hardly a suitable crop for the farm-garden, but as the American seed is generally preferred, it is here noticed as being of some importance to the seed-grower. It must be sown quite early in spring, in good soil, in the same way as carrots, and afterward treated the same as that crop. When thinned, the plants, drawn out, are bunched and sold, and later the leaves ai-e cut from the growing plant and similarly disposed of, a bunch consisting of about as 126 FARiI-GARDENI>fG AND SEED-GROWIXG. much as can be encircled by the tlmmb and forefinger. It can be taken up and preserved for winter use, or to trans- plant for seed in trenches, similar to celery, or bedded in the manner of preserving " late cabbages " for seed, par- tially burying the leaves, and covering lightly with coarse manure or litter. When thus kept, it is taken out, washed, and tied in bunches of three or four, the root and leaves entire. It can be sown in cold-frames, in rows twelve inches apart, and being protected by sashes, will be fit to cut in winter, at which season it formerly paid enormous profits, but now the supply exceeds the demand. Seed» — The simplest plan is, when sowing a bed of car- rots or beets, to sow every third row with parsley, thin- ning to six inches apart, which jvill give it forty-five inches between rows when the other crop is removed. When thus sown, in the fall go over and cut out all imper- fect plants, ridge the earth to but not over them, and at the approach of severe cold weather cover lightly with coarse litter, which must be removed early in the spring. When taken up in the fall, as previously noticed, the roots may be set out in four-foot rows one foot apart, and in either case keep clean by cultivator and hoe. The seed much resembles that of celery, grows and rip- ens the same, and the directions given for harvesting and cleaning that are applicable to this crop, using 'No. 20 sieve for the final cleaning. The seed will germinate when two years old. Varieties. — The "Double Curled" and "Triple Curled " are the varieties principally grown, the " Plain " or single leaf not being salable. The former is the most hardy, and generally grown for out-door crop, the second being used for growing under glass. PARSI^IP. This is extensively grown by market-gardeners, and is one of the leading root-crops for the farm-garden, not only PAESNIP. 127 Tvitli a view to growing for market, on account of its avail- ability for shipping, but it possesses valuable properties which recommend it as a food for stock. It generally commands fair prices, and from the fact of its being com- paratively non-perishable, the market is seldom glutted, and should this perchance occur, and continue through the season, the roots may be used to advantage for feeding animals. Soil and Preparataon. — Parsnips require good, strong, free soil, which may be prepared in the manner directed for carrots, using one half more manure, and as the seed is very light, and naturally weak in the germ, thick grow- ing is essential. They may be sown from early spring until June, but early sowing is advisable, as the seed will not germinate well in hot, dry weather. The after-culture is exactly the same as directed for car- rots, and in fact the remarks under that head in reference to harvesting, marketing, etc., are in the main applicable to this crop. Parsnips are usually taken up and stored late in the fall to be ready for winter market- ing, but they are perfectly hardy, and when grown solely for seed may be left until spring, when they should be taken up, selections made, and the best transplanted, and cultivated as directed for carrots, having the rows four feet apart. The seed should never be grown in sections where the Wild Parsnip grows, as it will mix and be spoiled. The seeds are produced in clusters or heads, and two seeds always grow together, lying the one flat against the other. When these seeds part, the heads should be cut, as such are ripe, and after drying in a loft, they can be thrashed, passed through the fan-mill twice, and cleaned by No. 10 sieve. It ripens unevenly and requires repeated cuttings. It will seldom germinate more than one year. Varieties. — ^Tliat known a^ the " Long Smooth Cup " 128 FAKM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. or " Hollow-Crowned " is the only variety grown to any extent for marketing. PEA. This is extensively cultivated for market, generally in the farm-gardens not very remote from the place of sale, except so far as its cultivation in the Southern States is concerned. There quantities are raised for New York and other Northern markets, and in consequence prices for " home-grown " peas are not so good as they might be, were it not for this competition. Still, when Northern peas come to market the others soon disappear, as those fresh-picked are far superior in flavor to such as have been shipped. Early peas, for Northern growers, may not be considered a very profitable crop in general, but they come in when there is but little else for market, and, as an old Dutch gardener once re- marked, they bring in some " early monish," and beside the ground is cleared in time and left in good condition for a second crop. Marrowfat peas, from their more prolific yield and higher prices obtained, bring better returns, but the land can not be cleared so early. Soil and Preparation. — ^Peas require a light soil, and to get an abundant yield, a liberal quantity of manure must be applied. Land lying to the southward and sheltered from the north winds is preferable for early peas, as it is important to have them in market as early as possible to obtain the best prices. Plow and harrow well ; mark out furrows six inches deep, four feet apart for the early, and five feet for the late varieties. Spread well-rotted manure or compost in the furrows, allowing a good shovelful to one yard of row. Sowing and Cultivation. — Early peas must be sown as PEA. 129 soon as the ground can be worked, and may be the first crop planted. Sow quite thick in the rows on the ma- nure, covering with a rake or hoe to a depth of three inches or more. When deep planted, they will produce the most. As soon as they are up, use the cultivator and hoe, which repeat twice, pulling weeds from the rows by hand. When grown on a large scale, it will not pay to "brush" the vines, and if allowed to lay long in one position, the part of the vine below will rot ; therefore, every day or two after the vines have fallen down they must be laid over by means of a hoe-handle, turning one way one day, and reversing the next. This must be done until the peas are fit for market, and when grown for seed, continued occasionally until they are ripe. Marketing. — When the pods have filled out plump, and before they become hard, they are marketable, and must be plucked, being careful not to tear the vines out in handling, and may be put in bags or open barrels for shipping, except when sent long distances, in which case small crates are preferable, as peas are very liable to heat and decay when long packed in heavy bulk. The pick- ing is often done in a great measure by German women, and where such help can be obtained, it is the best for this and similar purposes. Seed. — ^The bulk of peas sold in this country for seed are grown in Europe, principally in England, where they are produced quite cheaply, and free from the "bug" which is so common in American-grown peas. The egg of the insect is laid in the blossom or in the young pea, where it hatches, producing an insect of considerable size known as the "pea-bug," which eats its way out, leaving a hole in the pea, Avhich spoils the appearance, but does not in the least affect the vitality, as the germ is never destroyed. Gardeners who understand this prefer American-grown 6* ■ 130 FAEM-GAEDENIXG AND SEED-GROWIXG. seed for early planting. The manner of growing for seed is the same as for market, as is also the after-treatment. When the pods begin to dry, the seed is ripe, and the vines must then be pulled, and allowed to lie a day or two, but it is very important to get them thrashed as soon as dry, for if they should get wet after becoming ripe, the chances are that much of the seed will be spoiled. They can be easily thrashed with a flail, taking care not to break the seed, and can be readily cleaned by the fan-mill. They should be spread thin in a loft, and allowed to become perfectly dry before being packed. The seed retains its vitality two years. Varieties. — More or less of the choice European vari- eties are planted for market, but the larger growers prefer the Philadelphia Extra Early. — This is of good size, full, plump pods, and the earliest variety grown which has the necessary requisites. Vine two and a half feet. Marrowfat — White and Black-eyed. — There are many Marrow peas, especially the wrinkled varieties, which are far superior to these in flavor, but which do not possess the requisites for marketing, hence these old varieties are still extensively cultivated for this purpose. Pods large and plump; vine about four feet, and abundant bearers. PEPPER. Grown to some extent for market, and almost univer- sally in 2:>rivate gardens, hence more or less seed is in de- mand. The seed may be sown in hot-beds the same as the egg-plant, it requiring considerable moisture to swell it; the plants are to be thinned to three inches each way, or may be transplanted at that distance into a new hot-bed. They require a loamy soil and an abundance of POTATOES. 131 manure. Plant the latter part of May, in rows three feet apart, and eighteen inches between the plants. Marketing.— The fruit is marketable when about half- srrown, though some may be sold when ripe, and may be shipped in open barrels or crates. They should be cut with a part of the stem, but never broken from the plant. Seed.— The seed is produced about the core attached to the stem within the pods, and is ripe when the pods are red and begin to shrivel, at which time the fruit may be gathered, mashed or ground, and the seed washed out the same as that of the egg-plant. The seed retains its vitality two years. Varieties.— The varieties are quite numerous, the lead- ing sorts being the Bell or Bull-Kose and the Squash. They are both red when ripe, the former large, quite blunt and uneven at the lower or blossom end, but some- times tapering. The latter is about one third as large as the Bell, in shape broad and flat, very similar to a Tea- plate squash. POTATOES. There is perhaps no vegetable grown in which the public are so much interested as the potato, and many farmers count upon it as one of their main crops. Of late years, however, the uncertainty of getting a crop renders it hazardous to plant largely. To those who have seen the tremendous yields of this esculent in years gone by, there naturally arises m their minds the query : " What is the cause of the failure of the potato-crop of late years?" "Is it because the soil has become exhausted of some particular mgredient? or "Have the seasons changed sufficiently to produce a damaging effect?" or "Is it not more likely the seed has run oSt by long-continued planting from the same stock, and too frequently the use of small or inferior seed ? 132 FABM-GAEDENING AND SEED-GROWING. It is an established fact that all vegetables are improved by changmg, thit is, getting seed from a distance, and from soil and climate varying from that in which it is to be planted. This theory would seem to be established with regard to the potato when we consider what great results have been achieved with the new varieties recently disseminated. Take for instance the Early Rose, which in some cases has yielded more than one hundred and twenty-five and quite commonly one hundred pounds from one pound of seed. So with the Peerless, which wher- ever tried has proved most excellent. I might also men- tion a number of others which gave much better results than the old varieties under similar treatment. It is not my object to try to persuade faimers to discard the old varieties and go into new ones, though many of the latter are worth a fair trial, and every grower should test for himself. It is quite natural for a man when he wishes to save seed from garden vegetables to select the best. For insta'nce, he saves the finest and best shaped tomatoes, the longest and smoothest cucumbers, the sweetest m.elons, the smoothest onions, and in fact everything having the best qualities according to its kind. He does this because he knows they can be, and are, annually improved by this means, whereas, on the other hand, the varieties would soon run out if seed was saved promiscuously. This fact being then universally established in regard to the vegetables of the garden, is it not reason- able to attribute the failure of the potato in a great mea- sure to the continued planting of other than choice selected seed without change ? Soil, Preparation, and Planting.— Early potatoes, in which the farm-gardener is more particularly interested, require a loamy soil, Vv^hich should be plowed moderately deep, and finely harrowed, turning under thirty two-horse loads of well-rotted manure, or harrowing in one thou- sand pounds of bone-flour or six hundred pounds of guano POTATOES. 133 to the acre. They should be planted as early in the spring as the ground can be worked. Mark out furrows six inches deep, thirty inches apart, in which drop the seed one foot apart, and cover with a hoe, or throw a light furrow over them with the plow, and level with the back of tlie harrow. Fallow ground is preferable to sward for early potatoes, but when sward land is to be used for this crop, the seed may be put in as the land is plowed, planting every third furrow, in the manner that farmers usually pursue, covering only three or four inches, or the land may be more deeply plowed and furrows made as above, but this can not be so readily done on sward as on fallow ground. It is far preferable, if possible, to plow the land during August of the preced- ing year ; harrow well, and, if you please, sow flat turnips broadcast, giving at the same time a dressing of five hundred pounds of bone-flour to the acre. After the crop is taken ofi", plow again, and harrow thoroughly late in the fall, which will leave the land in excellent condition for the crop of the following year. Where manure is scarce, the furrows may be marked out as first mentioned, and the manure, which must be well-rotted, spread in the fur- rows, a good shovelful to about six feet of row, or bone- flour or guano may be applied lightly in the same manner. In regard to the various methods of planting, my obser- vations have led me to the following conclusions. In wet seasons those manured in the row do the best, and in dry seasons those manured broadcast and plowed in give the best results, and in order to get between these two ex- tremes, spread the manure broadcast, plow the ground, and furrow out, as first mentioned, which I believe to be the very best method of planting early potatoes. The seed should not be covered deeply, but may be slightly ridged, just before they come in blossom. The ground may be lightly harrowed over just as the first sprouts ap- pear which will destroy the first crop of weeds. The 134 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. after-culture is only to cultivate and hoe to keep free from weeds. Various devices have been invented for "dig- ging " potatoes, but with the early ones at least, the spade or digging-fork is the best. Considerable loss is sustained sometimes by the ravages of the " grub," which gnaws the surface of the tubers, thus disfiguring them, and totally unfitting them for marketing. A good dressing of shell-lime or ashes has a tendency to destroy these pests, as well as being otherwise beneficial to the crop. Always plant perfect seed, the largest and best that can be had. Cut so as to leave two good eyes to a piece. There is much diversity of opinion on this point, as well as to what length of time a potato should be cut before planting, but I prefer the plan mentioned, and at such time as may be convenient, within a fortnight of the proposed time of planting. Varieties. — The varieties of potatoes are numerous, and new ones are being constantly added. Many varieties have only local reputations, and even the Early Rose, so widely disseminated, and such a general favorite, fails en- tirely with some growers ; hence, the only proper plan for a grower to determine which is the hest for himself, is to try a few of the leading sorts. In growing potatoes for seed, care should be taken to have every variety true to name, to use only perfect seed in planting, and to grow them in new soil if possible. They should be perfectly ripe before digging, taken up when dry, and stored in pits or elsewhere away from frost until wanted, but avoid warm cellars, which may cause the tubers to sprout and injure them for seed. RADISHES. These vegetables are sold in immense quantities in all markets, and many are grown in the Southern States and RADISHES. 135 shipped North. They are, however, of a very perishable nature, and soon heat when packed in bulk. Soil, Preparation, and Sowing. — Radishes to be pro- duced in perfection must have light, warm, and rich soil, and that which has been previously well manured is pre- ferable to manuring at the time of sowing, as in the latter case they are apt to be attacked by a small grub, and the radishes become, to use the common phrase, " wormy," hence not marketable. If the soil requires fertilizing at the time of sowing, use bone-flour, one thousand pounds to the acre. They may be sown broadcast, over a bed of beets or carrots just sown, and raked in with them, and will come off in time to allow the main crop to be worked. This plan is objectionable, because such crops are generally sown on fresh-manured land, hence the radishes are liable to be wormy, and then in gathering the bed must be walked over, often in wet weather, thus packing the ground, and probably damaging the main crop more than the radishes can repay. It is far preferable to plow and harrow the ground very early in the spring, sow the seed broadcast, ten pounds to the acre, and cover by raking or light harrowing. The crop will be off in time to allow of beets or carrots being sown, when the manure necessary for those crops may be applied, the ground again plowed, which will be of great benefit, the seed sown, and when ready the plants can be worked without interruption. Radishes may be sown in hot- beds alone, or a few seeds be sprinkled in at the time of sowing cabbage or lettuce seeds, or they may be sown in a cold-frame, after the plants are removed, covered with sashes, and by coming early command good prices. The white and yellow varieties may be sown at in- tervals during the summer, and the Black Spanish and Chinese Rose in August, for winter use. Marketing* — The long varieties must be tied in flat 136 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. bunches of from six to nine, and the round sorts in round bunches of similar number. The flat bunches can more easily be washed by placing a board, sunken at one end by a weight, in a tub of water, upon which the bunch can be laid, and rubbed over with a soft brush. The round varieties can gene- rally be cleaned by dipping a few times in water, cither before or after bunching. Pack in barrels, with holes in the bottom to allow the water to escape, or, if for a distant market, drain well and pack in small, well-ventilated crates. Seed. — When grown for seed, sow in rows eighteen inches apart ; when well up, use the push-hoe, and when of fair size thin to six inches apart, leaving such only as are true to the variety, and afterward give a deep hoeing, and remove all weeds from the rows which may have been overlooked at the time of thinning. The Yellow Summer, Spanish, and Chinese varieties must be sown in August, wintered in pits, and set out in spring the same as turnips. Gardeners generally prefer the European seed of the scarlet varieties, as they make less tops or leaves, but the American, one year from the European seed, produces far superior radishes. The proper plan is to sow a few rows of imported seed, and from the product sow for main crop the next season ; and every year, beside the main bed, put in a few rows of imported seed for stock, and so repeat. The imported will not yield much seed at first, but from that a fair crop may be had, and this will produce the finest radishes, but if continually grown from the same stock, the tops get long and the roots tough and spindling. When the seed is ripe, which may be known by the pods becoming dry, the whole may be reaped or mowed ofi*, and left in rows, and occasionally turned until perfectly dry, when it may be thrashed. The pods are of a peculiar spongy KHUBAKB. 137 structure, and unless perfectly dry will not break, but rather mash down by thrashing. When thrashed, the stalks can be raked away, and the seed easily cleaned by passing twice through the fan-mill. It retains its vitality three years. Varieties I — The varieties are numerous, but few are adopted by gardeners, the principal being the Scarlets. Lon^ Scarlet. — Root long, slender, growing much above ground ; color deep pink, pale below ground, white at the point. Scarlet Turnip-rooted. — Root round, otherwise similar to the above, rather deeper colored. White Summer. — ^Root large, semi-long, tapering ; color white, above ground greenish, and sometimes pink. Yellow Summer. — Root large, nearly or quite round ; color russet yellow. Black Spanish. — Root large, semi-long; color dull black. Rose Chinese Winter. — Root large, narrow at the top, growing quite thick and flat at the bottom ; color deep pink above, pale pink or rose below ground. RHUBARB. This is extensively sold in all leading markets, and may be shipped to advantage when carefully packed. It is propagated by parting the roots, leaving one eye to each piece of root. The seeds rarely produce as good as the j)arent variety. Soil and Plantini^. — It requires very rich soil, and for early, light land and a warm exposure are essential, though a heavy loam will produce the largest stalks. The land may be prepared the same as directed for asparagus, and heavy dressings of manure must be annually applied. Mark out furrows five feet apart, and set the roots three 138 FAEM-GAEDENING AND SEED-GEOWIXG. feet in the rows, covering the crowns about two inches. The after-cultivation consists in cultivating and hoeing, and the general manner of working is the same as directed for asparagus. It may be grown in a forcing pit by setting large roots thick together, burying six inches with fine manure, and covering with sashes, which need seldom be opened, except to apply water, which may be applied often enough to keep the bed somewhat moist. Grown in this way it comes early and commands good prices. Marketing* — The stalks must be pulled, trimmed, tied in bunches of three to six, and the leaves cut away one half. It may be packed in ventilated boxes for shipping. Seed. — The seed is produced on a tall stalk thrown up from the center of the plant, and when ripe and dry may be stripped by hand. The seed-stalks should never be allowed to grow when leaf-stalks are wanted for market. The seed retains its vitality two years. Varieties. — The leading varieties are Linnaeus for early and Victoria for main crop. SALSIFY OR OYSTER-PLANT. The demand for this vegetable is steadily increasing, and considerable quantities are now sold. The seed is difficult to grow, or rather to save, as small birds are very fond of it, and attack it when in the milk, while yet unfit to gather. Still, when it can be saved it is in demand, as the American seed is preferred to the imported. Soil and Preparation. — The soil should be light and rich, and may be prepared as directed for carrots, using double the quantity of manure. The after-cultivation is the same as for that crop. Marketing. — ^The roots must be trimmed, washed, and SPINACH. 139 tied ill round bunches of six to eight. It is marketable in the fall, but more generally used in winter, and can be put away to use at that season in trenches like celery, or in beds like late cabbage for seed, partially covering the leaves. Seed. — The seed is produced the second year, and the plants, being perfectly hardy, may remain in the ground for that purpose. The seed-heads are very similar to those of the Dande- lion, but much larger, and like that, when the seed is ripe, expand to a head covered with furze. The pods should be cut when about half-open, cutting the furze away at the same time. It must be attended to several times each day in the hight, as it will soon blow away when fully expanded. It retains its vitality two years. There are no varieties. SPINACH. Extensively grown by market-gardeners, but not a very good article for shipping, though it may be grown to advantage in localities not very remote from market. Soil and Preparation.— Spinach does best in a light loam, which, to grow it in perfection, must be highly manured. It may follow early cabbage, onions, or any early crop which has had a liberal manuring. Clear the ground, plow and harrow thoroughly, and smooth the surface, turning under twenty two-horse loads of stable-manure, or harrowing in one thousand pounds of bone-flour, or five hundred pounds of guano, to the acre. Mark rows fifteen inches apart, one inch and a half deep, in which sow the «eed moderately thin, using about six pounds to the acre. The season for sowing is about the tenth of September, but may be sown early in the spring, but then will not come so early into market, nor yield so heavily as when fall-sown. It is quite hardy, and 140 FARM-GAEDENING AND SEED-GROWING. may be exposed the entire winter, except in very cold localities, where a thin covering of coarse straw late in the fall will be beneficial, and which should be removed quite early in the spring. Use the push-hoe as soon as the rows can be seen, and later give a deep hoeing, which repeat again early in spring, thoroughly pulverizing the soil. Marketing. — It will be marketable when the inner leaves have become considerably grown ; then the larger plants may be cut out with a knife, and later the crop may be cut indiscriminately, by running a push-hoe imder the rows, always cutting so as to have all the leaves attached to a small part of the root. The decayed ends of leaves must be cut away, after which wash and place in barrels, with holes at the bottom, and for long distances it will be advisable to drain out well before packing. Seed. — Much spinach seed is imported, but the Ameri- can-grown is considered to produce the most hardy plants, and hence is preferred by market-gardeners. It should invariably be sown in the fall to produce good seed, and otherwise grown as for market. When the seed is ripe, which may be known by its changing from green to brown, and the leaves drying away, the stalks must be pulled, laid in rows for a day to dry, and thrashed. It ripens irregularly, and two gather- ings will be necessary. After thrashing, rake away the stalks, and pass the seed twice through the fan-mill. A considerable portion will be in clusters of five or six seeds, which may be separated by rubbing through No. 5 sieve. Again pass through the fan-mill, clean with No. 14 sieve, and place in a loft on cloths to dry, before storing. The seed retains its vitality two years. Varieties. — The varieties are few, and that known as the Round-leaved is the one in general cultivation. SQUASHES. 141 SQUASHES. These are seldom found in market-gardens ; they belong properly to the farm-garden, and are well adapted fpr ship- ping. They are grown to some extent at the South for Northern markets, coming considerably earlier than we can produce them, and the season may be advanced there as well as here, by starting the early varieties on sods, in cold-frames, as directed for cucumbers, thereby also, in a measure, avoiding the " striped bug." Soil, Planting, etc.— The soil for squashes should be a light loam. The season for planting in the open ground is the middle of May. The preparation is the same as for melons or cucumbers, as is also the after-cultivation. Plant the early or bush varieties five by four feet, and the late or running sorts twelve by six feet apart. The same attention must also be paid to the " striped bug," which is very destructive to these plants. Marketing* — ^The early varieties are marketable when scarcely half-grown, always before the skin becomes hard, and may be shipped in barrels. They require some care in cutting and handling to avoid bruising. The late sorts must be allowed to ripen, and can be shipped in barrels or in bulk. Seed. — Great care should be taken to grow varieties far apart, as they readily mix in the blossom, and moreover they should not be grown near melons nor anything of this nature. When ripe, which may generally be deter- mined by the hardness of the skin, the squashes may be gathered, cut open with a hatchet, the seeds scraped out, and afterwards treated as directed for cucumber seeds. It retains its vitality ten years. 142 FAKM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. YARIETIES. Early Scalloped Bush. — Of this there are several sub-varieties, distinguished by their color — white, yellow, striped, etc. — of which the first two are the most popular. Plant large and compact ; fruit round, scalloped about the edge, oval next the stem, flat or indented at the blossom- end. Early Crookneck Bush. — Plant same as the above; fruit medium size, deep yellow, partly crooked, with slender neck, and covered with small wart-like bunches. Boston Marrow. — Plant trailing ; fruit medium size, egg-shaped, pointed at the ends; skin deep creamy yellow. The leading fall variety. Hubbard. — The plant, size, and form same as the above ; color dull green, brown above. The leading winter variety for market. SWEET-POTATOES. Universally cultivated throughout the United States, and extensively grown at the South for market. They do not stand handling so well as the common potato, being liable to rot quickly when bruised. They can be profitably grown in some parts of the Northern States where the soil is suitable, but as a general rule are not so dry and fine-flavored as when grown at the *' sunny South." Growing the Plants. — The plants may be grown in a hot-bed prepared as directed under that head, substituting sand for the common soil, or they may be started in a cold-frame in a warm position, removing the earth and using sand. They may also be grown without the aid of sashes in a common frame, in a warm and sheltered place, covering at night with boards. In a hot-bed the tubers should be started about the twentieth of April, and in a cold-frame ten days earlier. In either case put two SWEET-POTATOES. 143 inches of sand for the bed, cut the potatoes lengthwise, placing them thickly on the bed, cut side down, and cover- ing with two inches of sand, which may be increased to four inches or more as the plants appear. The bed must be kept moist but not wet, and airing be attended to, especially with the hot-bed when the plants are up. As the first shoots are pulled, more will be formed and grow up. Immense quantities of plants are annually sold, and there are few localities in w^hich a bed of plants can not be disposed of at paying prices. The potatoes for seed are usually obtained from the South, as they require a warm, dry, and even temperature to preserve them. Seed may, however, be saved at the North by digging them on a dry day, placing in a loft for a few days to dry, after- wards packing in barrels with dry sand, and storing in a dry, warm place, always handling with the greatest care, to avoid bruising. Soil, Preparation, and Planting.— The sweet-potato requires a light soil, more sandy than otherwise, w^liich should also be dry and Avarm. Plow the ground deep, harrow w^ell, and mark out shallow furrows four feet apart. In these place well-rotted stable manure or compost, a good shovelful to a yard of row ; plow the earth from both sides to and over the manure, forming a ridge ; even the surface thereof, and set the plants deeply over the manure, fifteen inches aj^art. The land may be marked out four feet each way, a shovelful of manure placed at the angles, and the earth raised over it, forming hills, in each of which set two good plants. In either case it is well to have the land prepared and set the plants after a rain. It is hardly safe to plant in this section before the first of June. The after- cultivation consists of hoeing the ridges and cultivating between, occasionally disturbing the vines to prevent them rooting at the joints. Marketing. — Northern-grown sweet-potatoes do not 144 FARM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. keep well under the best of circumstances, and hence it is advisable to commence digging early, and sell them direct from the field, finishing before frost if possible. Varieties. — The varieties are not numerous, the " Kan- semond " being the one generally conceded to be the best for a Northern climate. TOMATOES. They are extensively grown for market, and are an impor- tant crop for the farm-garden. Fifty years ago they were scarcely used for eating, while now hundreds of thousands of bushels are annually consumed in this country, show- ing that all vegetable productions create a mar- ket for themselves, a fact worthy the attention of those who from fear that the business of vegetable-growing may be overdone are deterred from planting many crops which they might grow to advantage. Growing the Plants* — The seed may be sown in the open ground after frost, but at the North these plants will be too late to mature much of the crop, though some will ripen. To grow them early sow the seed in March in a hot-bed, transplant into a new hot-bed, and give the same general treatment as directed for egg-plants, though they do not require quite so much heat. For seed purposes or main crop sow in hot-bed early in April, and transplant into a cold-frame, five inches each way, covering with sashes, and giving air clear days. By either of these methods, the former especially, they could be produced at the South, for the Northern market, a fortnight or more earlier than they now are. Soil, Preparation, and Planting. — Tomatoes will grow in almost any soil, but to grow them early, that composed mostly of sand is best, and for late and abun- dant yield a loamy soil is preferable. The ground should TOMATOES. 145 be plowed, haiTowed, and farrows made four feet apart for light, and five feet for heavier soils, cross-furrowing three feet apart. At the angles place a half- shovelful of "well-rotted manure, which mix with the soil, leaving the mass hollow, to receive the plant. I have found bone- phosphate an excellent fertilizer for tomatoes in loamy- soil, but prefer stable-manure for early crops. The plant- ing maybe done from the middle of May until the middle of June, taking up the plants with balls of earth when it can be done, and choosing a moist time for transplanting. MarketlBg. — The fruit should be gathered before fully ripe, to be solid, and is usually marketed in baskets, holding less than a bushel, or four to a barrel. For ship- ping long distances small latticed crates should be used. Seed. — Tomatoes for seed should be allowed to get per- fectly ripe, when they may be gathered, ground or mashed, and placed in barrels to ferment. They may so remain for any reasonable length of time without material injury, but will be fit to vv-ash out in forty-eight hours, and the sooner thereafter the seed is washed the brighter it will be. Wash through Nos. 3 and 5 sieves in the manner of egg- plant. The seed is of a spongy nature and retains much moisture, and to facilitate drying, Avhen it is taken out from the tub in No. 10 sieve, take the seed in liandfuls, and press firmly to remove the water, after which spread on shutters to dry, and treat the same as all other washed seeds. The very finest fruit should be chosen for stock seed. The seed retains its vitality seven years. Varieties. — ^The varieties are numerous, but compara- tively few are distinct. General Grant. — ^This may be considered as the earliest variety, but so far as this is concerned there is very little diiference between the various sorts, under the same treatment. Fruit of medium size, flat and smooth, solid flesh, ripens very even ; color deep red. 7 146 PAEM-GARDENING AND SEED-GROWING. Large Smooth Red. — This is the leading sort about New York. Fruit large, thick, generally smooth, though sometimes irregular; solid flesh, ripens even ; color bright red. Cook's Favorite. — Fruit medium size, round, and uni- formly smooth; solid flesh; ripens uneven, that is, the part next the stem is frequently quite green in color when the other part is rijDC ; color briglit red. Trophy. — A variety recently introduced ; an improve- ment on the Large Smooth Red. Fruit very large, thick and heavy, very smooth, solid flesh, ripens even ; color red. TURNIPS. These are seldom found in the market-garden, but ex- tensively grown in farm-gardens and by regular farmers. They usually command fair prices, and when the market is glutted can be fed out to good advantage. They are a first-class article for shipping, and the Ruta-Bagas are often sent to market by boat-loads. The white, flat, early varieties are grown to a considerable extent South,' and shipped to Northern markets in bunches or in bulk. These may be grown to advantage at the North, for bunching, if sown very early. The yellow, especially the Russia or Ruta-Bagas, are the most salable in winter. Soil and Preparation.— Turnips will grow in almost any soil which is moderately rich. An essential point is to make them grow quickly, otherwise they arc apt to be tough and woody. They do best in light loamy soils, and that which has been manured for a previous crop is pre- ferable to manurinor with stable-manure at the time of sowing, as in this case they arc liable to be worm-eaten and hence unsalable. Bone-flour is the best fertilizer that can be applied at the time of sowing, at the rate of six hundred pounds to the acre, broadcast, and harrowed in. Only the past fall, I had three beds of Ruta-Bagas, one TURNirs. 147 of which was manured with stable manure, and the other two with bone-flour. The former were quite uneven and worm-eaten, while the latter were smooth and fine, and every way superior to the others. The land should be plowed and thoroughly harrowed, to reduce all lumps, and the surface smoothed by the back of the harrow. Sowing and Cultiyatioil, — When the flat varieties are grown early, for bunching, they had better be sown thin, in shallow drills, fifteen inches apart, push-hoed when well up, thinned to four inches apart, and afterwards have a deep hoeing. Sow very early in the spring, using two pounds of seed to the acre. "When these or the Stone varieties are grown late for seed or winter marketing, sow the latter part of August, broadcast, one pound of seed to the acre, and harrow over lightly. The Russia or Ruta-Baga should be sown the middle of July, in drills thirty inches apart, to be worked with cultivator, or twenty inches and worked with a hoe, using one and a half to two pounds of seed to the acre. In either case they must be thinned to six or eight inches apart when fairly up, and the soil occasionally stirred. These are liable to be attacked when young by the " cabbage or turnip flea," in which case the plants must be sprinkled with lime-dust early in the morning. One or two applications will free them from these pests. Marketing* — Early turnips are marketable when about two inches in diameter. They can be pulled, a part of the leaves and the tap-root cut away, washed, tied in bunches of five to seven, and a part of the tops may be shorn off. They may be shipped in well-ventilated barrels or boxes. The dry roots should be marketed in barrels or in bulk, and when kept over winter, the sprouts must be cut off, but they must not be washed. 148' FARM-GAEDENING AND SEED-GEOWlNG. Harvesting and Storing. — The roots should be pulled about the middle of November, topped and put away as directed in the chapter on storing for winter, always being careful not to cut av^ay the heart of such as are intended for producing seed. Seed. — Turnips for seed must be set out as early as the ground can be worked, to insure a full crop. They do not require very rich ground ; that which has been manured the previous season will not need any more fertilizing. When not in a fair state of fertility, apply bone-flour in the rows, a good handful to about fifteen roots, before covering. The best crop of turnip seed I ever raised was manured in this manner. The ground should be loamy and well plowed and harrowed. Mark out light furrows three feet apart, and with a dibble set the turnips fifteen inches apart, fastening the tap-root. Cover with earth over the whole root, leaving the sprouts above ground. They will soon start to grow, when they must be culti- vated and hoed, and when they commence to blossom run the ridge-plow through and draw the earth about the roots to support them against storms. When ripe, which may be known by many of the pods becoming dry, the whole may be cut with shears or sickles. This must be done early in the morning, while the dew is still on, to prevent shelling out. When the whole is dry, carry in, thrash, and clean, as directed for cabbage seed. Avoid growing any two varieties near each other, and esi^ecialiy the Ruta-Baga near cabbage seed, as they readily mix. The seed is good for four years. Varieties. — The varieties are numerous, though but few are grown for market. Strap Leaf Early White Dutch. — Bulb medium size ; flat, white, greenish above ground ; leaves narrow and few ; valuable only for early use. COXCLUSION. 149 strap Leaf lied Top.— Bulb medium size, flat, white, purplish red above ground. Valuable for bunching and early fall, not very salable when the Ruta-Baga is in market. Yellow Aberdeen or Stone.— Bulb quite large, thick, nearly round, pale yellow ; there are two sub-varieties, known as " Purple Top " and " Green Top " from the color above ground, the former being generally preferred. Long White Cowhorn. — Bulb large, long, somewhat crooked, whence its name; white, tinged with green, and occasionally pink above ground; very firm in flesh and well-flavored. Very valuable for stock, and decidedly the best white turnip for family use in winter. American Ruta-Baga or Russia Turnip. —This is the leading market variety. Bulb large, semi-long and thick, smooth, tapering at the root, bright yellow. There are two sub-varieties, distinguished like those of the Aberdeen, and the " Purple Top " is generally preferred, CONCLUSION. General Management.— The old adage " What is worth doing at all is worth doing well " applies very forcibly to the business of growing vegetables or seeds, and it is worse than folly for any one to carry on either in a loose and careless manner, and expect to realize any profit there- from. Supposing the soil intended for this purpose and all natural advantages to be of the best, unless fertilizers are applied to the land, commensurate with the crop taken from it, an abundant yield can not be of long duration, and it matters not how well the land has been prepared, by manuring and other means, unless the crop is taken care of after it is sown or planted, all previous labor and expense will have been in vain. To begin either branch of this business, on a large scale^ without experience, must result in disappointment and loss, but for those 150 FAllM-GAKDEXING AND SEED-GROWIXG. among the class of men alluded to in the chapter on " Farm-Gardening," who have patience to begin in a small way, there is an inviting prospect before them. Having already noticed the importance of liberal manuring and subsequent care of the crop, I might add the great impor- tance o^ preventmg^ rather than destroying, weeds ; the plowing and working of the land when in proper condi- tion ; the sowing of seeds or planting at the proper time ; and, in short, of doing all things in season. By early and repeated stirring of the soil, all seeds of weeds near the surface are destroyed while in the germ, and it is a grave mistake to wait until the weeds can be seen before the cultivator and hoe are resorted to. Another important point is to exercise judgment in doing the work ; for in- stance, there is little use in hoeing or cultivating when the ground is very wet, but that is just the time to pull weeds from among the young plants in the rows ; and so on, through the whole routine, endeavor to arrange the work according to the weather or season, so far as may be prac- ticable. During the winter months preparations should be made for the spring. See that the tools and all things are in repair ; cart out manure and place it in large heaps near where it is to be used, make up straw mats, mend gashes, get out strings for bunching the next season, if any are to be used, and, in short, anything that can be done should be done, to save time in the hurried season. Have enough help at hand to do the work as it comes along, and, as I remarked before, do not put in any more crops than can positively receive proper attention. The matter of marketing will require some judgment. Green crops will have to be sold when fit, let the prices be what they may, but dry roots have a season of four months, sometimes selling highest in the fall, at others late in the winter, and vice versa. As a rule, it is best to sell oif the most of any crop when fair prices can be obtained. NUMBER OF PLANTS OR HILLS ON AX ACRE. 151 NUMBER OF PLANTS OR HILLS ON AN ACRE. Ft. Ft. Plants. 40 by 40 27 39 by 39 28 38 by 38 30 37 by 37 31 36 by 30 33 35 by 35 35 34 by 34 37 33 by 33 40 33 by 33 43 31 by 31 45 30 by 30 48 29 by 29 51 28 by 28 55 27 by 27 .' 59 26 by 26 64 25 by 25 70 24 by 24 75 23 by 23 83 23 by 22 90 21 by 21 99 20 by 20 109 19 by 19 121 18 by 18 135 17 by 17 151 16 by 16 171 15 by 15 194 14 by 14 323 13 by 13 358 Ft. In. Ft. In. Plants. 13 by 13 303 10 6 by 10 6 361 10 by 10 436 9 6 by 9 483 9 by 9 538 8 6 by 8 6 603 8 by 8 680 • V 6 by 7 6 775 7 by 7 889 6 6 by 6 6 1,031 6 by 6 1,310 5 e by 5 6 1,440 5 by 5 1,713 Ft. In. Ft. In. Plants. 4 6 by 4 2,151 4 by 4 2,733 3 6 by 3 6 3,550 3 by 3 4,840 3 by 3 6 5,808 3 by 3 7,260 3 by 1 6 9,680 3 by 1 14,520 2 6 by 2 6 6,969 3 6 by 3 ... 8,713 3 6 by 1 6 11,616 3 6 by 1 17,424 3 by 3 10,890 3 by 1 14,496 3 by 1 4 16,335 3 by 1 2 18,668 3 by 1 21,780 3 by 10 21,969 3 by 8 33,670 3 by 6 43,560 1 8 by 1 8 15,681 1 8 by 1 6 17,424 1 8 by 1 4 19,603 1 8 by 1 2 23,403 1 8 by 1 26,136 1 8 by 10 31,303 1 8 by 8 39,204 1 8 by 6 53,273 1 6 by 1 6 19,668 1 6 by 1 4 22,058 1 by 1 3 25,288 1 6 by 1 29,040 1 6 by 10 34,859 1 6 by 8 43,560 1 6 by 6 58,080 1 4 by 8 49,005 1 4 by 6 65,340 1 4 by 4 98,010 1 by 1 43,560 1 by 8 65,340 1 by 6 87,120 1 by 4 130,680 NEW AMERICAN FARM BOOK. ORIGINALLT BY AUTHOR OP " DISEASES OP DOMESTIC ANIMALS," AND POKMERLT SDITOR OP THE "AMERICAK AGRICULTURIST." REVISED AND ENLARGED BY AUTHOR OP "AMERICAN CATTLE," EDITOR OF THE "AMERICAN SHORT-HOUK HERD BOOK," ETC. c o:srTEns"T s: Introduction. — Tillage Ilusbandry — Grazing — Feeding — Breeding — Planting, etc. Chapter I. — Soils — Classification — Description — Management — Pro- perties. Chapter II. — Inorganic Manures — Mineral — Stone — Earth — Phos- phatic. Chapter III. — Organic Manures — Their Composition — Animal — Ve- getable. Chapter IV. — ^Irrigation and Drain- ing. Chapter V. — Mechanical Divisions of Soils — Spading — Plowing— Im- plements. Chapter VI.— The Grasses— Clovers — Meadows — Pastures — Compara- tive Values of Grasses— Implements for their Cultivation. Chapter VII.— Grain, and its Culti- vation — Varieties — Growth — Har- vesting. Chapter VIII. — Leguminous Plants — The Pea— Bean — English Field Bean— Tare or Vetch— Cultivation —Harvesting. Chapter IX.— Roots and Esculents- Varieties — Growth — Cultivation — Securing the Crops— Uses— Nutri- tive Equivalents ot Different Kinds of Forage. Chapter X.— Fruits— Apples— Cider — Vinegar — Pears — Quinces— Plums Peaches — Apricots — Nectarines — Smaller Fruits— Planting— Cultiva- tion— Gathering— Pres erving. Chapter XI.— Miscellaneous Objects of Caltivatioa, aside from the Or- dinary Farm Crops — Broom-corn — Flax— Cotton— Hemp— Sugar Cane Sorghum— Maple Sugar -Tobacco- Indigo— Madder— Wood— Sumach- Teasel — Mustard — Hops —Castor Bean. Chapter XII.— Aids and Objects of Agriculture — Rotation of Crops, > and tbeir Effects— Weeds— Restora- tion of Worn-out Soils — ^Fertilizing Barren Lands— Utility of Birds- Fences — Hedges — Farm Roads — Shade Trees— Wood Lands— Time of Cutting Timber— Tools— Agri- cultural Education of the Farmer. Chapter Xlil. — Farm Buildings — House — Barn — Sheds — Cisterns — Various other Outbuildings— Steam- ing Apparatus. Chapter XIV.— Domestic Animals — ^Breeding — Anatomy— Respiration — Consumption of Food. Chapter XV.— Neat or Homed Cattle Devons — Herefords— Ayreshires — Galloways — Short -horns — Alder- neys or Jerseys— Dutch or Holsteiu — Management from Birth to Milk- ing, Labor, or Slaughter. Chapter XVI.— The Dairy- Milk— Butter— Cheese— Different Kinds-^ Manner of Working. Chapter XVII. — Sheep — Merino — Saxon — South Down — The Long- wooled Breeds— Cotswold— Lincoln — Breeding — Management — Shep- herd Dogs. Chapter XVIII. —The Horse— De- scription of Different Breeds— Their Various Uses — Breeding— Manage- ment. Chapter XIX. —The Ass— Mule — Comparative Labor of Working Animals. Chapter XX. — Swine — Different Breeds — Breeding— Rearing — Fat- tening — Curing Pork and Hams. Chapter XXI. — Poultry — Hens, or Barn-door Fowls — Turkey — Pea- cock—Guinea Hen — Goose — Duck — Honey Bees. Chapter XXII. — Diseases of Ani- mals—What Authority Shall We Adopt ? — Sheep — Swine — Treat- ment and Breeding of Horses. Chapter XXIIL— Conclusion— Gene- ral Remarks — The Farmer who Lives by his Occupation — The Ama- teur Farmer — Sundry Useful Tables. SENT POST-PAID, PRICE $2.50. ORANGE JUDD & CO., 245 Broadway, New-York. AMERICAN CATTLE: Their History, Breeding, and Management. By liEWIS F. ALLEN, Lato President New- York State Agricultural Society, Editor "American Short-norn Herd Book," Author " Kural Architecture," etc., etc. Notices hy the Press. We consider this the most valuable work that has recently been issued from the American press. It embraces all branches of the important subject, and fills a vacancy in our agricultural literature for which work the author, by his many years' experience and observation, was eminently fitted. ... It ought to be in the hands of every owner of cattle, and the country, as well as individuals, would soon be much richer for its teachings.— Jowr/io^ of Agri- culture^ {St. Louis.) The large experience of the author in improving the character of Ameri- can herds adds to the weight of his observations, and has enabled him to pro- duce a work which will at once make good its claims as a standard authority on the subject. An excellent feature of this volume is its orderly, methodical rrangement, condensing a great variety of information into a comparatively mall compass, and enabling the reader to find the point on which he is seek- ing light, without wasting his time in turning over the leaves.— i\r. Y. Tribune. This will rank among the standard works of the country, and will be con- Bidered indispensable by every breeder of live-stock.— jRrac«ca?i?'arwer,(PMa.) We think it is the most complete work upon neat stock that we have Been, embodying as it does a vast amount of research and careful study and observation.— Wisconsin Farmer. His history of cattle in general, and of the individual breeds in particular which occupies the first one hundred and eighty pages of the volume, is writ- ten with much of the grace and charm of an Allison or a Macaulay. His de? scription of the leading breeds is illustrated by cuts of a bull, a cow, and a fat ox, of each race. The next one hundred pages are devoted to the sub- ject of Breeding. This is followed by chapters on Beef Cattle, Working Oxen, Jtf ilch Cows, Cattle Food, Diseases, etc. The arrangement, illustrations, an- alytical index, etc., of the work are in the best style of modern book-mak- ing.— iVijto-^wfl'^awi Farmer. The work is one that has been long needed, as it takes the place of the foreign books of like nature to which our farmers have been obliged to refer, and mrnishes in a compact and well-arranged volume all they desire upon this important subject.— JfaiTW Farmer. Whatever works the stock-farmer may already have, he can not afford to do without this.— Ohio Farmer. It is one of the best treatises within our knowledge, and contains infor- mation sound and sensible on every page.— I'Ae People, {Concord, N. H.) The object of the work, as stated by the author in his preface, " is not only to give a historical acccount of the Bovine race, to suggest to our farmers and cattle-breeders the best methods of their production and management, but to exalt and ennoble its pursuit to the dignity to which it is entitled in the vari- ous departments of American agriculture." From the little examination we have been able to give it, we can not recommend it too highly.— Ca/iacia Farmer. Considering that there are some ten million milch cows in the United States, and nearly a thousand million of dollars invested in cattle, the magni» tude of this interest demands that the best skilled talent be devoted to the improvement of the various breeds and the investigation of the best method of so caring for the animals as to gain the greatest profit from them. This Tolume will give the farmer just the instruction which he wants.— iV^. T. Inde^ pendent. Price. post>paid, $2.50. ORANGE JUDD A CO., 245 Broadway, New- York. GARDENING FOR PROFIT In the Market and. Family GJ-arden- By Peteb Henderson. riNEiL.'sr ii:.IjXtstr-a.tei3. This is the first work on Market Gardening ever published m thig country. Its author is well known as a market gardener of twenty- years' successful experience. In this work he has recorded thia experience, and given, without reservation, the methods necessary to the profitable culture of the commercial or It is a work for which there has long been a demand^ and one which will commend itself, not only to those who grow yegetablea for sale, but to the cultivator of the FAMILY GASDEN, to whom it presents methods quite different from the old ones gen erally practiced. It is an original and purely American work, and not made up, as books on gardening too often are, by quotations from foreign authors. Every thing is made perfectly plain, and the subject treated in &11 its details, from the selection of the soil to preparing the products for market. CONTENTS. Men fitted for the Business of Gardening. The Amount of Capital Beqviired, and "Working DPorco per Acre. Profits of Market Gardening. Ijooation, Situation, and Ijaying Out. Boils, Drainage, and Preparation. Manures, Implements. Uses and Management of Cold Frames. Formation and Management of Hot-beds. Forcing Pits or Green-houses. Seeds and Seed Baising. How, "When, and Where to Sow Beedo; Transplanting, Insects. Packing of Vegetables for Shipping. ^Preservation of Vegetables in "Winter. Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation. In the last chapter, the most valuable kinds are described, and the culture proper to each is given in detail. Sent post-paid, price $f.50. ORANGE JTJDD & CO., 245 Broadway, New-York. Hearth and Home. ;®®Btiirally lllTO®tpat®€® FULL OF INTERESTmC- AND VALUABLE BEADING. 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