b'CHAMBER OF COMMERCE \n\n\n\nA GUIDE \nFOR VISITORS \n\n\n\nFUEIJSHED BY THE \n\nSAN FRANCISCO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE \n\n\n\nFRICE \n\n\n\nCENTS \n\n\n\n\n1 \n\n\n\nClass __E1M. \nBook___i_ \n\n\n\nCopightN". \n\n\n\nCOPYRIGHT DEPOSm \n\n\n\n\nJUNIPERO SERKA, FATHER OF THE CALIFORNIA MISSIONS. \n\n\n\nTHE \n\nCHAMBER OF COMMERCE \n\nHANDBOOK \n\nFOiH \n\nSAN FRANCISCO \n\n\n\nHistorical and Descriptive \n\n\n\nA GUIDE FOR VISITORS \n\n\n\nPublished by the \n\nSan Francisco Chamber of Commerce \n\nunder diredlion of the \n\nPublicity Committee \n\n\n\nWritten and Compiled \n\nby \n\nFRANK MORTON TODD \n\n\n\nSAN FRANCISCO \n1914 \n\n\n\nI- 1 \n\n\n\nCopyright 1914 by the \nSan Francisco Chamber of Commerce \n\n\n\nM 14 1914 \n\n\n\n/ \n\n\n\nCI.A3G157J \n\n\n\nCONTENTS \n\nPage \n\nMAP OF SAN FRANCISCO Inside of Back Cover \n\nShowing parks, car lines and different points of interest. \n\nINTRODUCTORY 5 \n\nSAN FRANCISCO\xe2\x80\x94 HISTORICAL SKETCH 6 \n\nSpanish and English Navigators; Mission, Presidio, Pueblo; \nGold; the Vigilance Committee; Comstock Days; Railroad \nBuilding; Fire and Reconstruction; Present Population. \n\nSAN FRANCISCO\xe2\x80\x94 IN GENERAL 18 \n\nSetting of San Francisco, and the Bay. Climate. \n\nCUSTOMS REGULATIONS ; MONEY 22 \n\nBRING NO FRUIT INTO CALIFORNIA 29 \n\nGETTING UP TOWN 30 \n\nHow^ to Reach the Hotel Section from Ferry, Dock or Railway \nDepot. Taxicab, Hack and Automobile Fares to Hotels. \n\nGETTING YOUR BAGGAGE UP TOWN 31 \n\nHow to Avoid Delay and Risk of Loss. \n\nHOTELS 32 \n\nQuality of San Francisco Hostelries. List of Fifty of the best \nin all classes, with Locations, rates and directions for reaching \nthem. \n\nTOURIST AGENCIES, VALIDATING OFFICES. GEN- \nERAL LOCATION OF TICKET OFFICES 46 \n\nBATHS AND NATATORIA 47 \n\nSwimming baths and Hammams. \n\nRESTAURANTS, CAFES, GRILLS 50 \n\nThe Famous French Restaurants of San Francisco. Mexican \nand Italian Restaurants, German Grills. The After-Theater \nCafes. \n\nWALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO \n\nI. An Hour\'s Walk in the Downtown District, from Lotta\'s \nFountain. The Diamond Palace, Stock Exchange, Impor- \ntant Buildmgs, Interestmg Shops, Union Square, down \nMarket Street to Lotta\'s Fountain again. Heights of Tall \nBuildings in San Francisco 59 \n\nII. Chinatown \xe2\x80\x94 the People; their Manners, Customs, Habits, \nCharacter, Religious Worship. Chinese Homes, a Funeral, \na Wedding. Bazaars, Restaurants, Chinese Telephone \nExchange, Joss Houses. Chinese Printing Shop 67 \n\nIII. The Waterfront and Telegraph Hill. Shipping from All \nthe Oceans ; Whalers ; Literature these scenes have inspired ; \nFerry Building: the Old Grain Sheds; Marine Reporting \nStation of the Chamber of Commerce; Fishermen\'s Wharf. \nThe Panorama of the whole scene from the top of Tele- \ngraph Hill. Back to the center of the city through the \nLatin Quarter 83 \n\nI \n\n\n\nPage \n\nIV. Produce Commission District, Nob Hill and Russian Hill. \nUnited Slates Custom House, Appraiser\'s Building, Old \nMansions of Nob Hill, Fairmont Hotel, Russian Hill and \nits fine Views 88 \n\nHOW TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO BY TROLLEY and Cable 91 \n\n1 . Nob Hill, Golden Gale, Land\'s End, Sutro Heights, Sutro \nBaths, Cliff House and Seal Rocks 93 \n\n2. Market Street, Affiliated Colleges, and the Heights Over- \nlooking the Sunset District, the Golden Gate and the Pacific \nOcean 98 \n\n3. Nob Hill, Chinatown, Fishermen\'s Wharf, Crab and Fish \nMarket, North Beach, Latin Quarter, Stevenson Monument \nPortsmouth Square, Hall of Justice 101 \n\n4. Presidio, and Exposition Site, by way of O\'Farrell Street \nand the Retail and Apartment House Districts, returning \n\nby Fillmore Street Cable, Nob Hill and Powell Street 105 \n\n5. Union Iron Works, Potrero, Islais Creek, Bay View, \nVisitacion Valley, Returning through the Mission 108 \n\n6. San Mateo and return. Drives out of San Mateo to Crystal \nSprings Lake, Stanford University, Pescadero and other \npoints 110 \n\n7. Ocean Beach and the Great Highway via Mission street, \npassing the Mint, Post Office, National Guard Armory, \nMission District, Sutro Forest, and Lake Merced; Return- \ning through Parkside and the Sunset District, and Mounting \n\nthe S!opes\xc2\xabof Twin Peaks 112 \n\n8. Buena Vista Park, with its view over the City, Bay and \nOcean 114 \n\n9. By Sight-seeing Car of the United Railroads 115 \n\nCHURCHES AND DIVINE SERVICE 116 \n\nHow to Reach Churches of all leading Denominations, with \nTimes of Holding Services. \n\nTHEATERS 127 \n\nSan Francisco as a Theater city. Some Artists whose Stage \nCareers began here. Names and Locations of the Leading \nTheaters, Character of Entertainment offered, and prices. \nPublic Auditoriums. \n\nSIGHT-SEEING AUTOMOBILE CARS 131 \n\nMONUMENTS AND LANDMARKS\xe2\x80\x94 THE BANK EX- \nCHANGE 131 \n\nDonahue Monument, Lotta\'s Fountain, all the Monuments in the \nParks and Squares; Portsmouth Square, the Montgomery Block, \nthe Bank Exchange with its traditions of Bret Harte and Mark \nTwain; Where Stevenson studied San Francisco \n\nLONE MOUNTAIN AND THE OLD CEMETERIES..... 139 \n\nThe "Hill of Awe." Cyclorama of the City. The Necropolis, \nwith Tombs of famous San Franciscans and builders of empire \nin the West. \n\nII \n\n\n\nPage \n\nMISSION DOLORES 144 \n\nAltars, "Bells of the Past," Former Wealth of the Mission, the \nCemetery and the Graves of Governor Arguello, "Yankee \nSullivan" and James P. Casey. \n\nGOLDEN GATE PARK 149 \n\nMain features noted. Westward to the "Gjoa" and the Ocean \n\nBeach. \nMEMORIAL MUSEUM, GOLDEN GATE PARK 156 \n\nCharacter of the Exhibits; California Painters, and old Masters \n\nin the Galleries. \nINSTITUTE OF ART 160 \n\nSchool of Design. Paintings in the Collection. \n\nMUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY\xe2\x80\x94 "MAN AND HIS \n\nWORKS" 161 \n\nPrimitive Man. Distribution of the California Indian Tribes. \n\nFree Lectures. Grecian, Egyptian and Peruvian Remains. A \n\nContemporary "Uncontaminated Savage." \nCALIFORNIA DEVELOPMENT BOARD 164 \n\nExhibit Hall and Free Lecture Room. Finest California Fruits \n\non Display. Large Relief Map of the State. Literature Mailed \n\non Request. \nSTATE MINING BUREAU 166 \n\nLarge and Beautiful Mineral Collection. Models of Mills and \n\nMines. \n\nUNITED STATES MINT 167 \n\nHow Money is Coined in the Leading Mining State. Private \n\nCoining. \nPOST OFFICE BUILDING\xe2\x80\x94 UNITED STATES COURT \n\nHOUSE 171 \n\nMost Ornate Post Office building in the Country. Postal \n\nStatistics. \nHALL OF JUSTICE 172 \n\nCriminal Courts, Police Headquarters, Model City Prison. \nCIVIC CENTER 175 \n\nFuture Home of City and County Offices; City Hall, Opera \n\nHouse, Auditorium, Library and State Building. \n\nPANAMA-PACIFIC EXPOSITION 1 77 \n\nMARKETS 180 \n\nProducts of the Locality. Food Distribution. Colombo Market. \n\nFLOWER VENDING ON THE SIDEWALKS 182 \n\nLINCOLN PARK AND FORT MILEY 184 \n\nThe old City Cemetery. Chinese Mortuary Chapels. A Superb \n\nView of the Golden Gate and Western Part of the City. \nFORT MASON AND THE TRANSPORT DOCKS 188 \n\nBeauties of Black Point. Largest General Quartermaster\'s \n\nSupply Depot in the Country. Sailing Days of the Troopships. \nALCATRAZ ISLAND 189 \n\n"The Rock." The Prison and the Lighthouse. \n\nIll \n\n\n\nPage \n\nSAN FRANCISCO IN BOOKS 190 \n\nFamous Writers that have Developed here, and Translated the \nSpirit of the Locality into Literature. History. \n\nLIBRARIES 192 \n\nPublic, Mechanics-Mercantile, French, Polish, Mining, Tabard \nInn, Booklovers\', Paul Elder\'s. \n\nBOOK STORES, NEW AND OLD 198 \n\nWhere French, German, Spanish and Italian Books can be had. \nElder\'s, Robertson\'s. \n\nTHE PRESS 199 \n\nSome Distinguished Journalists whose careers began here. \n\nBANKS AND FINANCE 203 \n\nFinancial Strength of the City. Beauty of some of the Bank \nBuildings. \n\nSOME FRATERNAL AND ASSOCIATION BUILDINGS.. 208 \nMasonic Temple building, and others. \n\nEDUCATIONAL FACILITIES 210 \n\nHeavy State disbursements for Education. The Public School \nSystem. \n\nUNIVERSITIES AND COLLEGES 212 \n\nProfessional Schools in San Francisco. Great Universities close \nat hand. \n\nHOSPITALS AND SANATORIA 218 \n\nModern Institutions of the Rebuilt City. \n\nTELEGRAPH AND CABLE OFFICES 221 \n\nSAN FRANCISCO\'S PRINCIPAL STEAMSHIP CONNEC- \nTIONS 222 \n\nCLUBS AND SOCIETIES 223 \n\nLeading Social Organizations: Bohemian Club and the Grove \nPlay; Commonwealth Club and Political Research; Camera \nClub and Photographic Facilities ; Sierra Club and Mountaineer- \ning Information. \n\nCOMMERCIAL ORGANIZATIONS 231 \n\nChamber of Commerce and the Grain Pit. \n\nSPORTS 233 \n\nSalmon Fishing at the Golden Gate. Steelhead Fishing near \nSan Francisco. Fly Casting, Hunting, Trap Shooting, Base- \nball, Football, Cricket, Track and Field Athletics, Yachting, \nRowing, Harness Racing, Horseback Riding, Winter Polo, \nYear \'Round Golf and Tennis, Mountaineering from San \nFrancisco. \n\nROUND ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO 253 \n\nEXCURSIONS ON THE BAY 254 \n\nFERRY LINES, BAY AND RIVER STEAMBOATS 254 \n\nCITIES OF THE EAST SHORE 257 \n\nIV \n\n\n\nPage \n\nKEY TROLLEY TRIP 262 \n\nPIEDMONT PARK AND THE HAVENS ART COLLEC- \nTION 263 \n\nBERKELEY, THE UNIVERSITY, THE HEARST GREEK \n\nTHEATER 265 \n\nScenic Ride, the Christian Science Church. \n\nRICHMOND, A NEW INDUSTRIAL GROWTH 269 \n\nSAN LEANDRO AND LAKE CHABOT 268 \n\nSAUSALITO, FORT BAKER AND FORT BARRY 270 \n\nMT. TAMALPAIS AND MUIR WOODS 275 \n\nMARIN AND SONOMA COUNTIES 280 \n\nThe Triangle Trip. Santa Rosa and the Home Farm of \nLuther Burbank. Russian River. Inverness and Tomales Bay. \n\nMARE ISLAND NAVY YARD 285 \n\nUP THE NAPA VALLEY 286 \n\nTypical CaHfornia Wine Country. The Petrified Forest. \n\nNETHERLANDS ROUTE UP THE SACRAMENTO RIVER 288 \nBay and River Scenery. Longest Wire Span in the World. \n\nRIVER, RAIL AND RIVER, TO SACRAMENTO AND \nSTOCKTON 292 \n\nSAN JOSE AND THE SANTA CLARA VALLEY 294 \n\nMT. HAMILTON AND THE LICK OBSERVATORY 296 \n\nDOWN THE OCEAN SHORE 298 \n\nSANTA CRUZ AND ITS BIG TREES 299 \n\nDEL MONTE, MONTEREY, PACIFIC GROVE 300 \n\nSAN JUAN BAUTISTA, MOST INTERESTING OF THE \nMISSIONS 303 \n\nYOSEMITE 306 \n\nBIG TREES OF CALIFORNIA 309 \n\nLAKE TAHOE, AND DESOLATION VALLEY 311 \n\nThe Wondrous Mountain Lake. The Garden of Granite. \n\nAUTOMOBILING IN AND FROM SAN FRANCISCO 315 \n\nTAXICAB AND AUTOMOBILE RATES 336 \n\nSTREET CAR ROUTES 337 \n\n\n\n\n"t^^ \n\n\n\n\nWaters, photo. \n\nLLOYD LAKE AND THE "PORTALS OF THE PAST," GOLDEN GATE \n\nPARK. \n\n\n\n\n(Z \n\n\n\n\n-SS^ \n\n\n\nIM \n\n\n\n\n\n\nHistorical Sketch \n\n\n\nIN THE BEGINNING. \n\nBorn a drowsy Spanish hamlet, fed on the intoxicants of a \ngold rush, developed by an adventurous commerce and a \nbaronial agriculture, isolated throughout its turbulent history \nfrom the home lands of its diverse peoples and compelled to \nthe outworking of its own ethical and social standards, San \nFrancisco has evolved an individuality and a versatility \nbeyond any other American city. \n\nIt mellowed the Puritan and disciplined the Cavalier. It \nappropriated the song and art of the Latin. Every good thing \nthat Anglo-Saxon, Celt, Gaul, Iberian, Teuton or Mongolian \nhad to offer it seized upon and made part of its life. \n\nSan Francisco is today peculiarly the cosmopolitan city. \nBecause its social elements are still so near their equal sources, \nand opportunity still beckons every man of talent, it is also \nthe democratic city. And in spiritual freedom and forward \nimpulse and the vivid hope of great achievement it is the one \nrenaissance city of the present day. \n\nHere is no thraldom to the past, but a trying of all things \non their merits, and a searching of every proposal or estab- \nlished institution by the one test: Will it make life happier? \n\nIt is to help the visitor understand, appreciate and enjoy \nthis debonair metropolis with its surpassingly beautiful en- \nvirons that this handbook is issued. We know that you will \nfind here what you never found and never can find elsewhere. \nWe shall try to augment your pleasure in it by indicating \nsomething of its origin in the city\'s romantic past. We shall \ngive you your bearings, in time and place. We shall en- \ndeavor to show you the way, and smooth it for you too. We \nshall tell you what to seek and how to find it, and possibly \nwhat it may mean when you have found it. In short, we \nshall try to make you see why San Francisco is "the city loved \naround the world," and by its own people best of all. \n\n\n\nHandbool^ for San Francisco \n\n\n\nSAN FRANCISCO\xe2\x80\x94 HISTORICAL SKETCH. \n\nSo vital to operations in the Pacific is the port of San Fran- \ncisco that it became an objective of international strategy nearly \na century and a half ago. The need was recognized long \nbefore the bay was known, for the harbor was then uncharted, \nand its name belonged to that outer indentation of the coast \nnow called the Gulf of the Farallones, stretching from Point \nSan Pedro on the south to Point Reyes on the north, and \nmcluding the cove where Drake careened his vessel, to the \nnorthward of the Golden Gate. \n\nIn the North Pacific the dawn of civilization was slow. \nThe dim light of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries shows \nus the shadowy sails of the yearly treasure galleon bound from \nAcapulco to Manila and sailing down the California coast \non its return, a few English privateers lying in wait for it, \nand little else on that whole waste of water. \n\nThe galleon needed a port of call, and in 1 769 Jose de \nGalvaez, Spain\'s "visitador" in Mexico, knowing the Rus- \nsians were coming down from the north and hearing rumors \nof English and French approaching from the east, determined \non an active campaign for colonizing the coast of California, \nand especially that Bahia de Puerto de San Francisco which \nVizcaino had mapped by that name in 1 603. \n\nSan Francisco still occupies its vital position in relation \nto trade routes. If we substitute Panama for Acapulco, and \nfull-powered steam vessels, capable of bucking headwinds, \nfor the unwieldy sailing craft of old, we can appreciate to \nwhat degree this city is the key to the commerce of the Pacific ; \nfor it lies so close to the Great Circle route from Panama to \nYokohama, Nagasaki, Shanghai, Hong Kong and the Straits \nthat to drop in at this port lengthens the run between Panama \nand Yokohama by only 1 63 nautical miles, an inconsiderable \nmatter in a total of 7650. \n\nDISCOVERY OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY. \n\nSeveral expeditions were dispatched northward, to estab- \nlish stations. One of these, under command of Don Gaspar \n\n\n\nHistorical Sketch \n\n\n\nde Portola, governor of the Californias, left San Diego in \nJuly, 1 769, bound overland for Monterey, but overshot it \nand fetched the Bay of San Francisco instead. \n\nIt was November. The rains had begun. The expedi- \ntion had been nearly four months on the march. It had been \nscourged by famine and scurvy. Provisions were down to \nacorns. Portola himself was ill. In poor condition the party \nlingered a few days in the vicinity of San Francisquito creek, \nwhere Stanford University now stands, while Sergeant Jose \nFrancisco Ortega, chief of scouts, explored the country to \nthe northward and thus was probably the first white man to \nsee the Golden Gate; which appears, until then, to have been \nremarkable mainly for the list of great discoverers that had \nsailed by without discovering it. \n\nFive years later, \\775, Don Juan Manuel Ayala, Lieu- \ntenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy, sailed the packet San \nCarlos, otherwise the Toison de Oro or C olden Fleece, into \nthe Gulf of the Farallones, as the roadstead outside the heads \nwas called, looking for that Port of San Francisco which Viz- \ncaino had mapped in 1603 and Drake had visited in 1579, \nand on August 5 th poked his bowsprit into the Golden Gate, \nthe first of all the Argonauts of the western world. \n\nThe following year, 1 776, a land expedition commanded \nby Col. Juan Bautisia de Anza, arrived on the peninsula and \nhere located the Presidio of San Francisco and the Mission \nDolores, as it was called from the little creek nearby \xe2\x80\x94 the Mis- \nsion of St. Francis of Assissi. The next year the venerable \npresidente of the missions of upper California, Padre Junipero \nSerra, arrived, and inspected and blessed the work. \n\nThe Spanish plan of colonization had three departments; \nthe religious, the military and the civil ; which were represented \nrespectively by the Mission, the Presidio and the Pueblo. The \nPueblo they called Yerba Buena, after a medicinal trailing vine \nsupposed by the Spanish to facilitate the advent of fresh popu- \nlation. \n\n\n\n8 \n\n\n\nHandbooJc for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\n5AN FRANClSei \n\n\n\n5.1, fjc \n\\ BRUNO \n\n\n\nttVEHMQI \n\n\n\n\n\'im \n\n\n\nr^^N RAY \n\n\n\niX \n\n\n\niANJO. \n\n\n\nNSW AtMACfH \n\n\n\nTHE BASIN OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY. \n\n\n\nHistorical Sketch \n\n\n\nIn 1 802 there were 800 Indians at the Mission. In the \nmain, they were an unpromising breed and have utterly dis- \nappeared. \n\nIn 1 822 Mexico, with California, became independent of \nSpain. In 1 835 Governor Figueroa declared the Embarcadero \nof Verba Buena a port of entry, though it was than only a \n"landing place for fishermen and hide droghers," with a tent \nwhich belonged to the harbor master, Capt. W. A. Richardson. \n\nSuch were the beginnings of San Francisco. The year of \nthe dedication of the Mission and the founding of the Presidio \nwas the year of the Declaration of American Independence. \nThe Pacific Ocean was an unbounded waste. Capt. Cook \nhad not yet made the English discovery of the Hawaiian \nIslands. There were no settlements of any size on this coast \nsouth of Alaska. Lewis and Clarke had not begun their \nwork, and there was no Oregon, no state of Washington, and \nno British Columbia. As far as the concerns of white people \ngo, there was no Japan. China still slept, and practically the \nwhole commerce of the Pacific consisted of the galleon which, \nonce a year, passed between Acapulco and Manila. After \nthe time of Portola we hear no more of that. \n\nTHE COVETED PORT. \n\nAgain in the eighteen-forties, San Francisco became an \nobjective of international strategy. Small as the settlement \nwas at that time, the bay was a coveted prize in the feeble \nhands of the infant Mexican republic. \n\nRussia had retired up the coast, but England and France \nsent expeditions by sea that looked dangerous. At the oppor- \ntune time the United States stepped in as Spain had done \nbefore. Fremont had traversed the territory with an "explor- \ning expedition" and was at Klamath Lake in Oregon; Com- \nm.odore Sloat was at Monterey with frigate "Savannah," and \nCapt. Montgomery was in San Freincisco Bay with the sloop- \nof-war "Portsmouth." \n\n\n\nI Handboo}( for San Francisco \n\nFremont and his party marched down to Sonoma, where \nthe Bear Flag was raised and independence declared. \n\nWith Kit Carson, Lieut. Gillespie and a small party, Fre- \nmont crossed the bay and spiked the guns at the Presidio. \nSloat raised the American flag at Monterey, and Montgomery \nlanded a party from the "Portsmouth" and performed the \nsame function in the Plaza at Yerba Buena, July 8, 1 846. \n\nFrom the last mentioned event the Plaza has since been \ncalled Portsmouth Square. \n\nIn 1847 Washington Bartlett, the first American Alcalde, \nor mayor and judge, learning that another settlement was to \nbe started farther up the bay under the name of Francesca, \nafter General Vallejo\'s wife, and fearing some loss of pres- \ntige to his city thereby, declared it was time to drop the mean- \ningless name of Yerba Buena and call the young metropolis \nSan Francisco. Much was in a name. The founders of \n"Francesca" were forced to change their plans, and took the \nlady\'s other name, Benicia ; and the ships that cleared for \nSan Francisco Bay naturally dropped anchor before the city \nthat bore the harbor\'s designation. \n\nTHE AWAKENING. \n\nCalifornia was ceded to the United States in 1 848. In \nMarch of that year San Francisco had about 820 people, 200 \nhouses, a school, a newspaper, and two wharves. A fifty- \nvara lot (137J/2 feet square) north of Market street could \nbe obtained by alcalde grant for $ 1 6, which included re- \ncording fees. South of Market street a 1 00-vara lot could \nbe had for $29. \n\nWithin two years there were over 20,000 people in the \ncity, and there were three daily papers, seven churches, two \ntheatres and a jail. Steamers were running on the bay, and \ncharging twenty dollars to take a passenger to Sacramento. \nBy July over 200 square rigged vessels had come into port. \nWithin seven and one-half months 697 vessels arrived. Many \nwere driven on the beach and abandoned. The whalemen \n\n\n\nHistorical Sketch 1 1 \n\n\n\nhad to quit San Francisco for Honolulu for fear of losing \ntheir crews. Some of the deserted ships became hotels and \nnineteen were used for warehouses. Commercially the city \nhad leaped to the importance of Philadelphia. \n\nIt was as though the giant voice of some primeval world \nforce, with all the winds of ocean back of it, had thundered \n"Sleep no more!" Indeed, with the breakfast eggs at a dollar \napiece, cot beds at five dollars a night, and labor at twenty \ndollars a day, nobody could afford to sleep. \n\nIn 1849 $2,000,000 in gold was exported and the same \namount in goods and coin came back. Gold had been dis- \ncovered at Coloma, in what is now El Dorado county, on Jan- \nuary 19th, 1848, and by the following fall the rush was on \nfrom all over the world, bringing men of all sorts and classes \n\xe2\x80\x94 except the timid and the poor in spirit. \n\nThe noblest natures and the scum of the earth found them- \nselves cheek by jowl in the same community. For a time there \nwere neither social, religious nor legal restraints, no institutions \nof any kind to fit or provide for such conditions; nothing \nbut a general notion on the part of most people that order \nand equity ought to prevail, and that robbery and violence did. \n\nWithin a few months there were a hundred unpunished \nmurderers. Then the Vigilance Committee hanged four men, \nbeginning in June of \'51 with John Jenkins, who had robbed \na store, and following in July and August with Stuart, Whit- \naker and McKenzie. By 1856 civil authority was better or- \nganized, but the city had fallen, largely, into worse hands, \nso that the necessity for an assertion of the moral character \nof the community seemed even more imperative. With the \nshooting of the editor of the Bulletin, James King of William, \nwho was regarded as the popular defender of righteousness, \nby James P. Case^, an ex-convict from Sing Sing, and Super- \nvisor of the City and County, the Vigilance Committee was \nreorganized, under the leadership of William T. Coleman, a \nmerchant, and proceeded to clean things up in such manner \n\n\n\n12 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nthat San Francisco was a model of municipal purity for the \nnext twenty years. \n\nThe Committee had no legal authority. But it organized \nnearly 5,000 men, on a military plan, with regiments and \ncompanies of infantry, artillery and dragoons; it seized arms \nfrom the state; it fortified the two-story brick building known \nas the Truitt block, at 2 1 5 Sacramento street, using gunny \nbags filled with sand as a barricade, posted sentinels who ad- \nmitted no one except on password, held secret deliberations, \nissued warrants, summonses and other processes, sent out \nits officers and made arrests, and maintamed a jail on the \nsecond floor of its improvised fort for the accused criminals \nawaiting trial by its juries. \n\nThe motto on its seal read: "No Creed, No Party, No \nSectional Issues," and for three months it gave law to the city. \n\nESTABLISHING ORDER. \n\nThe Committee\'s first decisive act was to march to the \ncounty jail, plant a brass cannon in front of the door, and de- \nmand the person of Casey. The sheriff delivered him up. \nIn the jail was Charles Cora, a gambler, who was awaiting \nre-trial for killing a United States marshal ; having secured a \ndisagreement at his first trial largely through the influence \nof Col. E. D. Baker, his attorney, afterward killed at Ball\'s \nBluff in the Civil War. The citizen army took Cora, too. It \nheld these men until James King of William died, and on the \nday of his funeral. May 22, 1856, hanged them from the \nupper story of Fort Cunnybags, in view of thousands of people \nwho crowded the house-tops and the hills nearby to see it. \n\nDuring its brief control of affairs the Committee banished \nthirty undesirable citizens, and 800 more thought they had \nbetter leave of their own accord. \n\nOn July 29, 1856, Hetherington and Brace were hanged \nand the activities of the Committee began to subside. It never \ndisbanded, although it brought its labors to a close with a \ngrand public celebration. \n\n\n\nHistorical Sketch 1 3 \n\n\n\nTHE CIVIL WAR. \n\nAmong the citizens of the new state, politics were tur- \nbulent from the first. Out of the hot contention between Brod- \nerick and Gwin for a United States Senatorship grew the \nfamous duel between Senator BrodericJ( and Judge Terry. \nIt was fought just over the line in San Mateo county, and \nresulted in Broderick\'s death. Popular sentiment immediately \ncanonized him as the exponent of Free Soil principles, for the \nslavery question was becoming acute and Broderick had been \namong those that contended against slavery in California. \n\nAs the drama led up to the climax of the Civil War, \nefforts to draw California into secession became more and \nmore determined, but were defeated largely through the elo- \nquence and tact of a Unitarian clergyman, Thomas Starr \nKing, of Boston and San Francisco. \n\nKing was a man of culture, and among a people materially \nprosperous and intellectually starved he was soon in demand, \nup and down the state, as a lecturer on literary and philosoph- \nical themes. He took advantage of the opportunity to weave \ninto his discussions sound unionist and free labor doctrines, \nand did it with so much convincing clearness and fair-minded \nmoderation, that he probably contributed more than any other \none man to keeping California firm for the Union. His grave, \nin front of the church at Franklin and Geary streets, is one \nof the city\'s proudest relics. \n\nThough distant from the theater of the war, San Fran- \nciscans had early been familiar with names that became famous \nin that struggle. In 1853 Sherman swam ashore from a wreck \nand became the San Francisco representative of a St. Louis \nbanking house. Farragut was at Mare Island when the Vigi- \nlantes were up. Hooker owned a ranch in Sonoma county, \nand with Stoneman had made an unsuccessful effort to run \na sawmill at Bodega bay. Fremont had a ranch in Mari- \nposa county. Halleck, Shields and Col. E. D. Baker prac- \nticed law in San Francisco. McPherson was stationed on \n\n\n\n1 4 Handbool^ for San Francisco \n\nAlcatraz island during the early period of the war. Lander, \nBuell, Ord, Keyes, Heintzelman, Sumner, Hancock, Stone, \nPorter, Boggs, Grant and Albert Sidney Johnston had all \nbeen on the coast at various times. \n\nAs the Spanish war emphasized the need of a canal at \nPanama, so the Civil War before it called attention to the \nisolation of the Pacific Coast, and the need of a railroad to \nconnect it with the East. A young Connecticut engineer named \nTheodore D. Judah had been called to California to build \na line from Sacramento to Placerville. The grandeur of vision \nthat seems to enchant the West came upon him and he dreamed \nof a railroad across a continent. The dream seized Leland \nStanford, Collis P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, and Charles \nand E. B. Crocker. They asked great grants from Congress, \nand the hard logic of the war came to their aid. On July \n31, 1862, Congress passed the Pacific Railroad bill. Ground \nwas broken in January, 1 863. They built forty miles of snow- \nsheds in the mountains and they carted water across the des- \nert. In one place they had to haul their rails 740 miles by \nwagon. But they made it, and drove the last spike at Prom- \nontory, in Utah, on May 1 0, 1 869. \n\nThe blows of the silver sledge on the spike of gold were \nrepeated, stroke for stroke, on a big bell at the City Hall in \nSan Francisco. The road did not reach this city until some \ntime afterward, but the effect was to link California to the \nnation indissolubly, and the jubilation of the city was just \nas enthusiastic as though it had immediately become the west- \nern terminus. \n\nTelegraph communication with the Eastern States was estab- \nlished in 1 862. \n\nCOMSTOCK DAYS. \n\nA wonderful phase of San Francisco life and one that left \nan indelible mark on local character was connected with the \ndevelopment of the mines in Nevada. In 1 859 a Canadian \nex-trapper and fur trader named Comstock, widely known \nas "Old Pancake" from his fondness for that article of diet \n\n\n\nHistorical Sketch 15 \n\n\n\nand his notorious inability to bake a good specimen of it, \nstumbled on a quartz deposit on the side of Mount Davidson \nin the Washoe range. He did not discover it. The Comstock \nlode appears to have been discovered by a couple of Irishmen \nnamed O\'Reilly and McLaughlin, but Comstock argued them \nout of a share of it and gave his name to the lode. When the \nnews got abroad there followed the greatest mining frenzy \never known, and one that has not yet entirely subsided. Within \nthirty years the Comstock mines produced $350,000,000 worth \nof bullion and paid $1 30,000,000 in dividends, mainly to San \nFrancisco share-holders. \n\nThis city was the focal point of the fever, although it in- \nfested the world. California passed through its early gold \nmining days without a stock exchange, for placer mining was a \n"pooJ^ man\'s game" and required little capital; but shortly \nafter the development of the Comstock began, the Stock and \nExchange Board was instituted in San Francisco to facilitate \nthe floating of mining companies and to regulate dealings in \ntheir shares. This was in 1 862. It was a necessary pro- \nvision against irresponsibility and wholesale fraud, and yet the \ndealings soon took on the most violent phases of the specu- \nlating mania, and the whole community became involved, from \nthe "tin-horn sport" to the clergyman, from the washerwoman \nto the banker. \n\nBefore the end of 1861 nearly one hundred companies had \nbeen formed. By 1876 there were three stock exchanges, all \nthriving. Violent fluctuations of the stock list could be pro- \nduced by manipulated news and crooked tips from mining \noperations that were going on beyond the state line and a \nthousand feet underground. Giants fought, and financially \nslew one another, for control of different mines. Discoveries \nof "bonanzas," or rich deposits, caused immense jumps in price \nin a few hours. At one time the aggregate paper values, \nas quoted on the stock market, ran over $700,000,000. \n\nMillionaires were made overnight. Strong banks were \nfounded in the city to finance the mining and milling. Men \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\narose to financial power who had a bold grasp of affairs, and a \nstartling breadth of view, combined with an intense love for \nthe city where they had made their wealth, and the brightest \ndreams of its future power and beauty. \n\nThey lavished money on such enterprises as the Palace \nHotel. They and the railroad magnates crowned Nob Hill \nwith palaces whose walls were hung with the costliest tapes- \ntries and the most beautiful paintings, whose teak and ebony \nfinishings were inlaid with mother-of-pearl and ivory, and which \nmade the name of that bit of hill-top renowned all over the \nworld. \n\nIn 1872 there occurred a slump in stocks in which prices \ndropped $60,000,000 in ten days. There was a general \nrally of the list, and another decline, in 1875, of $100,000,- \n000, of which $42,000,000 was lost in a single week. \n\nGradually the excitement subsided, to flame up again fit- \nfully in I 886 and then fall away once more. But the com- \nmunity had lived so long in an atmosphere of enchantment that \nthe glamour of those days has but increased with time, and \nthe real San Franciscan feels that his city has passed through \nthe golden romance that makes others commonplace by con- \ntrast. \n\nAmong the memorable names of the time are those of the \n"Big Four" that built the Central Pacific Railroad \xe2\x80\x94 Hunt- \nington, Hopkins, Stanford and Crocker; and the battling \ngiants of the Comstock \xe2\x80\x94 Mackay & Fair, Flood & O\'Brien, \nAlvinza Hayward, D. O. Mills, Adolph Sutro, United States \nSenators Stewart, Jones and Sharon (Fair also was a United \nStates Senator), W. C. Ralston, E. J. Baldwin; and James \nR. Keene, who until his death in January, 1913, was one of \ndominant figures of the Wall Street market. \n\nDEVASTATION AND RECOVERY. \n\nThe census of 1 900 gave San Francisco a population of \n342, 782. That of 1910 raised it to 4 1 6,9 1 2, a gain of over \n\n\n\nHistorical Sketch 1 7 \n\n\n\n2 1 per cent in a decade ; and between the two counts the city \nsuffered the greatest fire of which modern men have any knowl- \nedge. \n\nThe conflagration of April 18th to 2/st, 1906, burned 497 \ncity blocks, or four square miles, out of the heart of the city. \nFrom the Embarcadero, between the foot of Taylor street \nand the foot of Howard, it swept southwestward to Van Ness \navenue, got a block beyond, from Clay to Sutter, jumped Van \nNess again between Golden Gate avenue and Page street \nand burned three blocks westward, and at the same time \nswept the populous area south of Market street as far south- \neast as Townsend, and as far southwest as Dolores and \nTwentieth. \n\nTwenty-eight thousand buildings were destroyed in three \ndays. The railroads carried two hundred thousand people \nout of town. The whole business district was a dreary waste \nof ashes in which the only business done for weeks consisted \nin dragging safes out of the ruins and breaking them open in \nthe hope of finding some of their contents unburned. \n\nYet as this is being written, the merchants of this city are \ninviting the people of the West to a fashion show in the \nmost beautiful modern stores, in well-paved, clean, brilliantly \nlighted streets \xe2\x80\x94 a fashion show richer and more sumptuous \nthan can be seen anywhere outside of Paris, designed to appeal \nto the taste and pocket books of a prosperous people. And \nthe city as a whole has invited the world to the greatest inter- \nnational exposition thus far held. \n\nEstimated on the figures of the public service corporations, a \nsure index, the population of San Francisco in 1913 is 530,- \n000. In March, 1913, real estate sold on its main thorough- \nfare at $14,000 a front foot. \n\nIn the histories of American cities there are no wonders \ncomparable to these. And yet in looking over San Fran- \ncisco\'s past one is forced to conclude that any one of these \ncontributing causes of growth might have been omitted and \nyet the city would h^v^ be^n here. It would have been a \n\n\n\n1 8 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nthriving community by this time without the gold mines, for \nAmericans were beginning to settle in California before the \npresence of gold was generally suspected, and agriculture and \ncommerce would have made San Francisco great. Order and \nsecurity would in some way have been evolved if not by the \nVigilance Committee. The Comstock might never have been \ndiscovered, and still San Francisco would have continued to \nthrive, beyond any other city of the West. \n\nThe Spanish galleons no longer traverse their ancient route \nfrom Manila to Acapulco, but fleets of steel and steam must \npass on the same trail, back and forth between Europe and \nAsia. Despite earthquake and fire, the city\'s commercial \nfabric stands on the surest of foundations \xe2\x80\x94 that of economic \nnecessity. Were there no San Francisco in existence men \nwould have to begin and build it now. \n\n\n\nSAN FRANCISCO\xe2\x80\x94 IN GENERAL. \n\nThe beauty and grandeur of San Francisco\'s location have \ndelighted every visitor that has seen the region properly. With \nthe possible exception of Constantinople, no other city has \nsuch a setting. It occupies the tip of a peninsula about 6^ \nmiles across, almost surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on the \nwest, San Francisco Bay on the east and northeast, and, \nalong the north, the Golden Gate connecting the two. \n\nThe basin of San Francisco Bay is a magnificent amphi- \ntheater rimmed with hills that rise here and there to mountain \nstature. In the bosom of this amphitheater lies the Bay, a \ngleaming sheet dotted with islands and shining sails, criss- \ncrossed by busy ferry boats, and ploughed by stately ocean \nsteamers or big square-riggers from "around the Horn." It \nis 65 miles long, from 4 to 1 miles in width; and into it \nthe great rivers of California, the Sacramento and the San \nJoaquin, discharge the water that falls on the west slope of \nthe Sierra Nevada mountains and the east side of the Coast \n\n\n\nIn General 1 9 \n\nRange, and in the central valley section of the State, a region \n400 miles long and from 50 to 60 miles across. \n\nThe Golden Gate is the outlet of this drainage area and \nthe channel through which the tides ebb and flow between \nthe bay and the ocean. It is about 2^ miles long, and P/a \nmiles in width, and, with its rolling blue water, its light- \nhouses, fortifications, islands and processions of majestic ships, \nis one of the inspiring scenes of the western contment. As \nmany as twenty-five steamers move through it in a day. It is \nthe only breach through the Coast Range mountains of Cali- \nfornia. Beyond the Golden Gate rise the huge bluffs and ridges \nof Marin County, their endless convolutions painted in subdued \nand harmonious earth colors. Up the ocean shore can be \nseen long points of land running westward and making other \nbays. \n\nIn San Francisco itself, at points almost providentially dis- \nposed, rise hills, from ,300 to over 900 feet in height, from \nwhose summits superb panoramas of the city, bay and ocean \nopen to the view. \n\nHow these vistas have impressed one of the most scholarly \nand discriminating of travelers appears in the oft-quoted state- \nment of James Bryce, former British Ambassador to the United \nStates, and author of the "American Commonwealth," who \nsays: \n\n"FeXv cities in the world can vie with San Francisco either \nin the beauty or in the natural advantages of her situation; \nindeed, there are only two places in Europe \xe2\x80\x94 Constantinople \nand Gibraltar \xe2\x80\x94 that combine an equally perfect landscape \nwith what may be called an equally imperial position. . , . \n\n"The city itself is full of bold hills, rising steeply from the \ndeep water. The air is keen, dry and bright, like the air of \nGreece, and the waters not less blue. Perhaps it is this air \nand light, recalling the cities of the Mediterranean, that make \none involuntarily look up to the tops of these hills for the \nfeudal castle or the ruins of the Acropolis, which one thinks \nmust crown them." \n\n\n\n20 Handbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nAlong the west side of the city runs the Great Highway, \nfollowing the ocean almost in a straight line for three miles, \nand here the long rollers of the Pacific thunder on the beach \nand sink back under shrouds of foam. The whole frontage \nof San Francisco along the ocean is about eight miles, from \nthe San Mateo county line to Fort Point. \n\nThis territory covers about 46J/2 square miles of hill and \nvale and sand dunes and city. It is an area of great topo- \ngraphical variety and contains 1 4 good-sized hills. \n\nMarket street runs southwest from the Ferry building to \nTwin Peaks, making small angles, or gores, with the streets \nrunning west on the north side of it. South of Market, the \nstreets are perpendicular and parallel to it. \n\nThe general house numbering scheme in San Francisco is \nbased on a scale of one hundred numbers to the block. \nNumbers increase from the Embarcadero westward, and, from \nMarket street, in both directions. Thus the house numbers \non each street slanting westward from the northwest side of \nMarket street (the north side, as it is called locally) begin \none hundred numbers behind those on the parallel streets \nnorth of it. \n\nCity directories may be consulted at almost all drug stores \nand will give the locations of churches, fraternal orders and \nhalls, charitable organizations, clubs, theaters, consulates, pri- \nvate schools, and similar institutions, in classified lists to be \nfound in the index. The directory also gives a street and \navenue guide with house numbers complete. In the following \npages we shall indicate more specifically some places and \nobjects of particular interest that no intelligent traveler would \nwillingly omit to see. \n\nCLIMATE. \n\nSan Francisco has one of the finest of climates, with com- \nfortable and invigorating temperatures the year around. Stim- \nulating sea breezes blow during the summer afternoons, in- \n\n\n\nIn General 2 1 \n\nsuring against heat, and usually falling in the evening, so that \nthe nights are extremely pleasant \xe2\x80\x94 a condition that does a \ngreat deal to promote the out-door night life of the city. \nFogs are frequent, but instead of being dreaded are regarded \nas a cosmetic. The San Francisco complexion is celebrated. \nOne never suffers here either from heat or cold, and every \nnight is cool enough to enable one to sleep comfortably \nunder blankets. \n\nSnow sometimes falls, but so rarely as to be a subject of \ncomment for several days, and it never falls in sufficient \nquantity, or stays long enough on the ground, to make good \nsleighing or snow-balling. The Weather Bureau\'s records \nshow light falls of snow on the following dates since 1876: \nJan. 21st, 1876; Dec. 31st, 1882; Feb. 6th, 1883; Feb. \n7th, 1884; Feb. 5th, 1887; Jan. 4th, 1888; Jan. 16th, \n1888; March 2nd, 1894; March 2nd, 1896; Feb. 3rd, \n1903; Feb. 26th, 1911; Feb. 27th, 1911; Jan. 9th, 1913 \n\xe2\x80\x94 thirteen times in 37 years. \n\nDuring the cold snap of Jan. 1st to 8th, 1913, the lowest \ntemperature at San Francisco, according to the Bureau\'s offi- \ncial records, was 33 degrees above zero. The lowest tem- \nperature ever officially recorded at San Francisco was 29 \ndegrees above zero. \n\nTornadoes, typhoons and hurricanes are unknown. Thun- \nderstorms are very rare \xe2\x80\x94 28 have been recorded in 20 years, \nand eight of them occurred in one year. In 20 years there \nwere only 56 hail storms. \n\nSome most interesting studies of the local climate have \nbeen made by Alexander G. McAdie, professor of meteor- \nology in charge of the local office of the Weather Bureau. \nOne of these is entitled "The Clouds and Fogs of San Fran- \ncisco" and is from the publishing house of A. M. Robertson. \nAnother is "The Climatology of California," and a third ia \n"The Climate of San Francisco," written by Prof. McAdie \n\n\n\n22 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nin conjunction with George H. Wilson, local forecaster. From \nthe first named work we quote: \n\nFog Is San Francisco\'s greatest asset It keeps the city cool in \n\nsummer and thus makes for heahh; also It keeps the city warm In winter, \npreventing frosts and moderating the fall in temperature San Fran- \nciscans love their fog. When away from the city they pine for it, and \nespecially during summer. Not without reason do they appreciate the \ncoohng effect of the fog. It enables one to sleep through summer nights \nand rise refreshed and ready for the day\'s requirements. \n\n\n\nCUSTOMS REGULATIONS. \n\nTravelers arriving at San Francisco from foreign countries \nwill find the customs laws administered, as far as the visitor \nis concerned, with tact, courtesy and intelligence, and will \nsave themselves annoyance if they will strive to conform to \nthe necessary conditions of the tariff regulations. \n\nThe purser on the steamer usually distributes declaration \nblanks and printed notices of the customs requirements in \nregard to baggage. The notices specify what and how much \ncan be brought in free, and what must be declared. \n\nAs a rule, articles are dutiable unless specifically exempted \nby law. \n\nMONEY. \n\nSan Franciscans are given to the use of gold and silver \nmoney to a degree unknown to the people of the Eastern \nStates. Unless you request paper at the bank you will prob- \nably be paid coin. The smallest coin in general use is the \nnickel five-cent piece, although of late copper cents are com- \ning into circulation. \n\nThe values of foreign coins in terms of United States \nmoney, have been proclaimed by the acting Secretary of the \nTreasury, on the estimate of the Director of the Mint, to be \nas follows: \n\n\n\nCustoms Regulations \n\n\n\n23 \n\n\n\nCountry Moneiar}) Unit U \n\nArgentine Rep Peso \n\nAustria-Hungary Crown \n\nBelgium Franc \n\nBolivia Boliviano \n\nBrazil Milreis \n\nBritish Am Dollar \n\nCosta Rica Colon \n\nChile Peso \n\nru- Tap] ^ Shanghai \n\nL-rima ^ aei , . . ., \n\n\' Haikwan \n\nColombia Dollar \n\nDenmark Crown \n\nEcuador Sucre \n\nEgypt Pound, 1 00 piastres \n\nFinland Mark \n\nFrance Franc \n\nGerman Emp Mark \n\nGreat Britain Pound Sterling \n\nGreece Drachma \n\nHayti Gourde \n\nIndia (British) Pound Sterling \n\nItaly Lira \n\nJapan Yen \n\nLiberia Dollar \n\nMexico Peso \n\nNetherlands Florin \n\nNewfoundland Dollar \n\nNorway Crown \n\nPanama Balboa \n\nPersia Kran \n\nPeru Libra \n\nPhilippine Isl Peso \n\nPortugal Milreis \n\nRussia Ruble \n\nSpain Peseta \n\nSweden Crown \n\nSwitzerland Franc \n\nTurkey Piaster \n\nUruguay Peso \n\nVenezuela Bolivar \n\n\n\nValue in \n, 5. Mone^ \n\n$0.96,5 \n0.20,3 \n0.19,3 \n0.38,9 \n0.54,6 \n1.00,0 \n0.46,5 \n0.36,5 \n\n0.69,2 \n0.77,1 \nL00,0 \n0.26,8 \n0.48,7 \n4.94,3 \n0.19,3 \n0.19,3 \n0.23,8 \n\n4.86,61/2 \n\n0.19,3 \n\n0.96,5 \n\n4.86,61/i \n\n0.19,3 \n\n0.49,8 \n\n1.00,0 \n\n0.49,8 \n\n0.40,2 \n\n1.01,4 \n\n0.26,8 \n\n1 .00,0 \n\n0.17,04 \n\n4.86,61/2 \n\n0.50,0 \n\n1.08,0 \n\n0.51,5 \n\n0.19,3 \n\n0.26,8 \n\n0.19,3 \n\n0.04,4 \n\n1.03,4 \n\n0.19,3 \n\n\n\n24 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\nREACHING THE CITY. \n\nTravelers enter San Francisco in one of three general ways: \nThrough the Golden Gate if they come by sea, landing at \none of the State piers on the Embarcadero, or at the Govern- \nment transport docks at Fort Mason on the northern water- \nfront; at the ferry Building, also on the Embarcadero; or at \nThird and Townsend street depot, if they come by the South- \nern Pacific\'s coast line trains. \n\nThe heaviest travel enters at the Ferry building, the city\'s \ngreat water gate, having crossed the Bay from Oakland or \nPoint Richmond on the suburban ferries. \n\nThese boats are the swiftest, largest and most commodious \nto be found in such a service anywhere, and the passage is \nfull of novelty and charm. No other city is approached by \nsuch a royal way, and the traveler arriving thus may well \nlook forward to the last stage of his journey as by far the \nbest and most beautiful. \n\nYou pass Yerba Buena (Goat) Island and the Naval Train- \ning Station, and if you are early enough you can hear the \nbugles singing reveille from the parade ground above the \nlittle cove. \n\nAcross the bay to the northwest rises the bold cone of \nTamalpais, 2,592 feet high, with the beautiful hills of Marin \ncounty, San Francisco\'s main playground, for its buttresses. \nBefore it is Angel Island, with the east cantonment of the \nU. S. Army recruiting station on its eastern shore. \n\nTo the northward are the hills of Sonoma county, "Land \nof the Moon," the Indians called it, one of the principal wine \ndistricts of California ; and if the day be very clear one can \nsee, directly north, Mt. St. Helena, over 4,000 feet high and \n55 miles distant in an air line. \n\nSouth of the bluff Marin county hills is the opening of the \nGolden Gate, visible for a moment before you pass Yerba \nBuena island, and just inside it rises Alcairaz island, with the \ngray walls of its military prison, soon to become a Federal \npenitentiary. \n\n\n\nReaching the Cifp 25 \n\n\n\nOn the peninsula of San Francisco, to the extreme right, \nrises a scarred and precipitous bluff, with dwelHngs clinging \nto its flanks, and trees upon its crest. This is Telegraph HilU \n"Crazy owld, daisy owld Tilygraft Hill," as Wallace Irwin \ncalled it in one of his San Francisco lyrics. In early days a \nsemaphore on its 300-foot height announced incoming vessels \nto the merchants in the old business district near its southern \nbase. Its summit, where the trees stand, is now Pioneer Park, \nwhence there is a wonderful view over the city and Bay, and \nin the third of the "Walks About San Francisco," in this \nbook, you can find the easiest way to ascend. \n\nSouth of Telegraph appears Russian Hill, also affording a \nfine view, and No. IV of the "Walks" will tell you how to \nreach that. \n\nThe next prominent feature southward is the palatial Fair- \nmont Hotel, crowning Nob Hill, renowned as the residence \ndistrict of the Comstock and railroad millionaires. \n\nThe domed skyscraper that appears southward of the Ferry \nbuilding and a considerable distance behind it, is the Claus \nSpreckels building, one of the tallest in the West. It stands \nat Newspaper Square, with the Examiner and Chronicle build- \nings near it. Slightly to the left of it is the dark and solid \nlooking dome of the Humboldt Savings Bank building, and \nrising just behind that is to be the Call building, 400 feet \nhigh. These buildings indicate the line of Market street. \n\nSouthward still are the rolling hills of the P otter o industrial \ndistrict. Far to the left of that a long tongue of land juts \ninto the Bay. This is Hunter\'s Point, where great drydocJ^s \nare built in the solid rock. One of them is 750 feet long, \nthe largest on the Pacific coast of the two Americas. With \nthe Union Iron Works, in the Potrero, these docks are now \npart of the Bethlehem Steel Corporation\'s properties. \n\nFlocks of wheeling tern follow the boat, sailing gracefully \nen the breeze, and swooping without a miss at bits of food \nthrown them by the passengers. These are the famous "sea- \ngulls" of San Francisco Bay. They are here all winter, from \n\n\n\n26 \n\n\n\nHandhool^ for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nCopyright, 1910, R. J. Waters & Co. \nUNVEILING THE TETRAZZINI TABLET, NEWSPAPER SQUARE. \n\nOctober to March or April, and are an attractive feature. \nTheir summers they spend in the Arctic. \n\nSoon the busy panorama of the city front grows more dis- \ntinct ; miles of long docks, forests of masts and steam funnels, \nbusy tugs towing barges along a commercial battle line, some \ngreat ship in from the Orient, a bark from Antwerp or a five- \nmasted schooner from the islands; the gray stone Ferry build- \ning with its clock tower like the Giralda of Seville; and back \nof it the city rising on its majestic hills, tier upon tier of it, \nspire, dome and tall skyscraper, humming with life and seeth- \ning with mighty, organized energies. \n\nOr, night may magically transform the scene, blanking the \nbuildings into the darkness and leaving the streets marching \nover the hills with long ranks and cross ranks of torches. \nThe shipping and the pier heads will be pointed with other \n\n\n\nReaching the Cit\\) 27 \n\n\n\nlights, and above them all will appear the piercing star at the \ntop of the Ferry tower. \n\njj- You go ashore through the Ferry building and find yourself \nat the foot of Market street, the main thoroughfare. The \nEmharcadero stretches away to the right and left. The city \nlies before you. \n\nIf you arrive at Third and Townsend depot, cars bound \nnorthwest on Third will take you to the heart of the business \ndistrict at "^hird, Kearny and Market streets, or Newspaper \nSquare, where are located the offices and publishing plants \nof the three great morning dailies of the city, the Call, Chron- \nicle and Examiner. This is where Lotta Crabtree, a stage \nfavorite of former days, erected a fountain to show her love \nfor the yoiichful city, and where Luisa Tetrazzini, on Christ- \nmas c. \'910, sang in the open air to more than 100,000 \npeople and thus established the annual winter street concert \nat this point as one of the regular festivals of San Francisco. \n\nOr, on Townsend street, trolley cars marked "20\' on the \nroof will take you up Fourth street to Market, and thence out \nEllis street through the western part of the city as far as the \nbeach. \n\nBut the traveler to be envied is he that approaches San \nFrancisco from over the ocean. He will enter an imperial \nport. He will sail on the tides of mighty rivers into the \nheart of a great State. He will see the prone, eternal hills, \n"like giants at a hunting, chin on hand," giving him a patron- \nizing sort of welcome; the bold bluffs of Marin county, the \nBerkeley hills on the "Contra Costa" or opposite shore, per- \nhaps the tip of Diablo, nearly 4,000 feet high, rising behind \nthem, if the day be clear. After his long voyage across the \nopen ocean he will have the sense of protection and harborage \nthat only great havens give. He will feel that this arrival is \nlike no other arrival anywhere, and departure an evil to be \nindefinitely deferred. \n\nSuppose your last port was Honolulu, or Yokohama. Say \nyour captain makes his landfall at dawn. Straight as a bullet \n\n\n\n28 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nhe drives for the Golden Gate. The westerly breeze is with \nyou and you feel no chill. A jagged silhouette lifts from the \nsea as you look toward the rising sun, and as you draw \nabreast of it and get better light the Southeast Farallone looms \nto port like a castle of sculptured pearl. Past this outpost \nand past the light-house on it, and you are in that Gulf of the \nFarallones known to the Spaniards for generations before they \nlearned it was only the ocean dooryard to California. Dead \nahead is the coast, a rim of airy looking hills in the morning \nmist, so soft in their melting outline that no hint at first \nappears of the breach through which the waters of the broad \nvalleys find their way to sea. \n\nFifteen miles farther and you pass the light-ship. Now you \nface the Gate, opening directly before you. The bold head- \nlands. Point Lobos and Point Bonita, rear themselves to right \nand left. Far to starboard, opposite Point Lobos, are some \nbrownish crags just outside the surf, from which you may \nimagine you hear the throaty bark of fat old sea lions. \n\nAlcatraz and Angel islands loom ahead, Alcatraz with the \nlight-house and the gray prison on it. The peninsula of San \nFrancisco crouches couchant, facing the Marin county hills. \nSlowly you draw past Mile Rock light, and Baker\'s Beach \ncurving in a long crescent that terminates in Fort Point with \nFort W infield Scott at its tip. The timbered slopes from \nwhich this cape juts out are part of the United States military \nreservation, known from early Spanish days as the Presidio. \nIts smiling green expanses mask the emplacements of many \nhigh-powered rifled cannon ; for San Francisco has been called \nthe best fortified city in the country. \n\nOpposite Fort Point is a white cape projecting from the \nMarin county shore known as Lime Point. \n\nBeyond Fort Point are the 625 acres of the Panama-Pacific \nExposition grounds, a natural amphitheater glorified with the \ndomes and spires, the courts and palaces that embody the \ndreams of some of the foremost living architects. Before It \nis the yacht harbor, and just beyond that are the Government \n\n\n\nReaching the City \n\n\n\n29 \n\n\n\nTransport Docl^s, whence the troops depart for Hawaii and \nthe Philippines. Down the slopes behind and through the \nspaces between pours the city ; dock and quay, warehouse and \nfactory, fort and Presidio and Fishermen\'s Wharf with its \nlateen-sailed fleet, the dwellings of the people and the build- \nings of the World\'s Fair, blent in one perfect picture. And \n\n\n\n\nEXPOSITION SITE, ON THE GOLDEN GATE. \n\nthe night approach is equally inspiring \xe2\x80\x94 gloomy bulks of land, \nthe beacons winking from the light-houses, and then a glory of \nlamps flung over the hills like spangles on a violet robe. \n\nYou have reached a city so rich in its varied types and \npersonal elements, so versatile, so human in its strengths and \nweaknesses, so great in its past achievements and strong in its \nambitions and its future, that it is fit to rank among the \ndominant communities of the world. \n\nBRING NO FRUIT INTO CALIFORNIA. \n\nOn behalf of California\'s great fruit interests, on which \nlargely the prosperity of the State depends, we ask all travelers \nnot to bring in fruit or vegetables. \n\nWith its great fruit regions and its wondrous climate just \nbetween the temperate and tropical, fruit pests unwittingly in- \ntroduced in the baggage of some visitor might thrive and mul- \n\n\n\n30 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\ntiply in California to such a degree as to imperil one of the \nleading industries of the State. \n\nThere are many such pests that are, at some stage of their \nlife history, invisible, so that it is impossible for any one but \nan expert in horticulture and entomology to say whether fruit \nis infected or not. \n\nSo do not try to bring in any fruit or vegetable. \n\nThe same considerations apply to the mongoose, which \nwould exterminate quail, partridges and other ground nesting \nbirds and make the poultry industry almost impossible for the \ntime being \xe2\x80\x94 and possibly to other animal pets. Before you \nhave completed this journey you may wish to make California \nyour home. Help us take care of it as though it were. \n\n\n\nGETTING UP TOWN. \n\nMany of the larger hotels send \'busses to meet incoming \ntrains and steamers. Some are free, and some charge 25 or \n50 cents a passenger for this service. \n\nStreet cars can be taken at the Ferry or at Third and \nTownsend depot, and the traveler landing at the steamer docks \nsouth of Market street can reach the Third street cars by way \nof King street, southwest to Third. \n\nIf you prefer to travel by hack, taxi or automobile, make a \ndefinite bargain beforehand with the driver himself, and not \nwith a go-between whom you may never see again. \n\nTAXICAB, HACK AND AUTOMOBILE FARES. \n\nFrom the Ferry and Railroad Depots and steamer landings \nto hotels in the "Downtown Hotel District," a flat rate was be- \ning established when this book went to press. This rate will \nnot exceed $1.00 for a vehicle containing four persons or less. \nAsk your taxicab driver in advance for the rate to where you \nare going. To points outside of this District, meter rates apply. \n\nSee page 336 for meter and other rates in detail. \n\n\n\nGetting Your Baggage Up ToTvn 31 \n\nGETTING YOUR BAGGAGE UP TOWN. \n\nThere are two methods open to you for handling your \nbaggage, either of them good and convenient. \n\nFirst, you can give your checks to the solicitor on the train \nor on the steamer, take his receipt, tell him to what hotel or \nlodgings you are going, and be reasonably sure your trunks \nand bags will reach you with a fair degree of promptness. \nIf you come by a steamer which is not boarded by a baggage \ntransfer agent, your next recourse aboard is the purser or the \nfreight clerk. \n\nSecond, you can hold your checks and give them to the clerk \nof the hotel at which you stop. All the good hotels have \narrangements for taking care of their guests in this respect. \nThe method is likely to be fully as prompt as the other, and \nif you wish to look about before definitely engaging your \nrooms, you will not have to pay for hauling your baggage \nfrom place to place. \n\nThe fair charge for carrying a trunk to any point except \nin the outlying or hilly parts of the city is $.50, and for a \npiece of hand luggage $.25. There are some companies that \ndo it for less. Baggage can remain in the railway depots \ntwenty-four hours without charge. After that it pays storage \ncharges at the rate of $.25 for the first twenty- four hours and \n$. 1 for each succeeding day or part thereof. \n\nTo avoid payment for storage on baggage, it should be \nclaimed immediately on arrival at destination. \n\nStorage of baggage is free at San Francisco while a pas- \nsenger on an interstate ticket is gone to Yosemite valley. \n\nIf the traveler\'s destination in the city is a private house he \nwill find baggage transfer companies listed in the classified \ndepartment of the telephone directory, but it is better to be \nguided in that case by the advice of friends. \n\n\n\n32 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nPALM COURT OF THE PALACE HOTEL. \n\n\n\nHOTELS. \n\nThe hotels of San Francisco are among the finest in the \nworld. For comfort, and efficiency of service they have \nnever been excelled. There are no old hotels in the down- \ntown section of the city, for the fire of 1 906 burned out \nevery one in that district, with the result that all of them now \nexisting there are new, sanitary and freshly decorated and \nfurnished. In the cheapest of them one gets modern accom- \nmodations. There are more good rooms in second or even \nthird class hotels in San Francisco than in any other city. \n\nSan Francisco\'s renowned old hostelries were rebuilt after \nthe fire, and generally speaking are conducted under the same \nmanagement as of old. The Palace, built by William C. \nRalston, was known all over the world. Its famous Palm \nCourt was a splendid glass-domed space 84 by 1 44 feet in \nsize, surrounded by an inner gallery at every floor, and with \n\n\n\nSome of the Hotels 33 \n\n\n\na huge palm in the center. And it was said of it, as KipHng \nsaid of the India Docks, that if you waited there long enough \nyou could see anybody you wished. Merely to take down its \nwalls after the fire cost over $70,000, and it is now rebuilt \nin steel and brick in the most substantial way and beautifully \nappointed in every particular. The Palm Court is even more \nbeautiful than before, and a favorite rendezvous. In the bar \nis Maxfield Parrish\'s mural decoration, the "Pied Piper of \nHamelin." Ladies sometimes drop in to view it. \n\nThe Fairmont, on the summit of Nob Hill, represents a \nlater development. With its view over the Bay it is the per- \nmanent home of many wealthy people, and its great Norman \ncafe bids fair to become almost as famous as the Palm Court \nof the Palace. \n\nThe Hotel St. Francis was burned out by the fire, but its \nsteel frame and stone walls hardly had time to cool before a \nbanquet of business men was held in its dismantled White and \nGold room to celebrate the beginning of reconstruction. Here \none finds the last refinement of perfect hotel service. George \nWharton James, writing of the Hotel Men\'s 1910 trip, says \nof it: \n\nBriefly, there Is no finer Interpretation of the art of pubhc hospitahty \nin the United States today, than is presented by the complete three-winged \nSt. Francis, which, with over 800 guest rooms, has the largest capacity of \nany hotel on the Pacific Coast. \n\nIn 1913 the St. Francis is constructing a fourth wing, which \nwill make it one of the largest tourist hotels in the world. \n\nThe Stewart is another fine hostelry, and so are the Bellevue, \nthe Granada, the Union Square, the Cadillac, the Herald, \nthe Sutter, the Manx, and scores of others. It is impossible \nto mention them all, in a work of this size, for this is the \ngreatest hotel city in the world in proportion to population, \nhaving over 2,000 hotels, lodging houses and apartment houses, \n90 per cent of them new. However, the following mention of \nbut a few of the better ones of their class, centrally located. \n\n\n\n34 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nwill afford the visitor a good choice of price and accommo- \ndation. \n\nThe phrase "European Plan" means that the room only is \nincluded in the price. "American Plan" means meals in- \ncluded. Where the hotel is conducted on the American plan, \nboard usually costs about $2 a day in addition to rooms. \n\nHotel Acme: 819 Mission street. Mission street cars. \nEuropean plan. Moderate prices; at 50 cents to $1.50. \n\nHotel Adena: 144 O\'Farrell street, opposite Orpheum \ntheater. European plan, $1.00 a day. Sample rooms for \ncommercial travelers. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot taJ^e Ellis and Ocean \ncar. Line No. 20, to Stockton street and Tvalk one block north. \n\nFrom Ferr]) building take an]^ Market street car to Stockton \nstreet and walk one block north, or Gear]) Street Municipal \nRailvDay to Stockton street and walk one block south. \n\nAlpine House: 480 Pine street, next to California Mar- \nket. European plan; 50c, 75c and $1.00 a day; $2.50, \n$3.00, $3.50, $4.00, $5.00 and $6.00 a week. Cafe and \ngrill in the building. Caters largely to country trade. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, get off at \nPine street and walk half a block ^^sf. \n\nFrom Ferry building take Third and Kentucky car. Line \nNo. 16, to the same point \n\nHotel Argonaut: Fourth street and Pioneer Place, close to \nMarket street. European plan, $1.00 a day and up. Cafe \nand grill in connection. \n\nFree bus. \n\nArlington Hotel: 480 Ellis street, corner of Leavenworth. \nEuropean or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day \nand up; American, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe in connec- \ntion. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. \n\nFree bus. \n\n\n\nSome of the Hotels 35 \n\n\n\nAstoria Hotel: Northwest corner Bush street and Grant \navenue. Rooms at 50 cents to $1.50. \n\nTal^e Sutter street cars, on Line No. /, 2 or 3, and walk \none block north. \n\nHotel Atlanta: Seventh and Mission streets, opposite the \nPost Office. Eluropean plan, 75c to $2.00 a day; $3.50 to \n$8.00 a week. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- \nmercial travelers. \n\nFree bus (Argonaut or Winchester). \n\nBaldwin Hotel: Grant avenue near Sutter street. All \nrooms with private bath. European plan; rates, $1.00 to \n$2.00 a day for one person; $1.50 to $2.00 a day for two. \nFamily and commercial trade. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, to Sutter \nstreet and walk a block west. \n\nFrom the Ferr-y building take Sutter street car and get off \nat Grant avenue. \n\nBaltimore Hotel: 1015 Van Ness avenue. European or \nAmerican plan. Rates, European, 75c a day and up; Amer- \nican, $2.00 a day and up. Family trade. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend Depot take Ellis and Ocean \ncar. Line No. 20, to Van Ness avenue and walk one block \nnorth. \n\nFrom Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer at \nFourth to Ellis street and get off at Van Ness avenue. \n\nBellevue Hotel: Southwest corner of Geary and Taylor \nstreets. All rooms with private bath. European or Ameri- \ncan plan. Rates, European, $2.00 a day and up; Amer- \nican, $4.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection; sample rooms \nfor commercial travelers. \n\nBus from depots at 25c a person, or \n\nFrom Third and Townsend Depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16 and transfer \nic Geary Street Municipal Railway, passing the door. \n\n\n\n36 HandbooI( for San Francisco \n\nFrom the Ferry huilding taJ^e Geary Street Municipal Rail- \nway, passing the door. \n\nBrooklyn Hotel: On First street, between Folsom and \nHarrison. European or American plan. Rales, European, \n50c to $1.00 a day; American, $1.00 to $1.50. Family \nand commercial trade. \n\nFree bus. \n\nHotel Brownell: 335 Larkin street, near Golden Gate \navenue. European plan, $1.00 a day and up; rates by the \nweek or month. Tourist, family and commercial trade. \n\nFrom Third and Torvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16 to Market \nstreet, transfer to McAllister No. 5, get off at Larkin and \nn>alk north. \n\nFrom Ferry huilding take McAllister car. Line No. 5, to \nthe same point. \n\nHotel Cadillac: Eddy and Leavenworth streets. Euro- \npean or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and \nup; American, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe in connection. \nSample rooms for commercial travelers. Tourist, family and \ncommercial trade. \n\nFree auto bus. \n\nColumbia Hotel: 409 O\'Farrell street, corner of Taylor. \nEuropean plan, $1.00 a day single, $1.50 double; with \nprivate bath, $1.50 single, $2.00 double. Tourist and family \ntrade. \n\nFrom Third and Torvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Taylor street and walk one block north. \n\nFrom Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer at \nFourth street to Ellis car to the same point. \n\nContinental Hotel: 127 Ellis street, near Powell. Euro- \npean plan, $1.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Sample \nfooms for commercial travelers. Family and commercial trade. \n\n\n\nSome of the Hotels \n\n\n\n37 \n\n\n\nFrom Third and Toivnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Powell street. \n\nFrom Ferry building tal^e any Market street car to Powell \nand Walk one block north. \n\nHotel Dale: 34 Turk street, European plan, $1.00 a \nday and up. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- \nmercial travelers. \n\nFree bus from steamer docks. From Third and Townsend \ndepot take car of Line 15 or 16, transfer to Market, west- \nbound, and get off at Mason. \n\nFrom the Ferry take Market street car to Mason. The \nhotel will pay taxicab fare. \n\n\n\n\nTHE FAIRMONT HOTEL, NOB HILL. \n\nFairmont Hotel: Occupies block between Powell and Ma- \nson, and California and Sacramento streets; 500 rooms, each \nwith private bath. European plan, $2.50 a day and up. \nLadies\' grill and gentlemen\'s grill in connection. Sample \nrooms for commercial travelers. \n\nBus meets all trains, ferries and steamers at a charge of 50c \nper person, or \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car^ \n\n\n\n38 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nLine No. 20, to corner of Ellis and Powell, transfer to PoTvell \nstreet cable, get off at California. \n\nFrom the Ferr]) building take a Sacramento street car, no \nnumber, to Mason street. \n\nHotel Clen: Turk and Market streets. European plan, \n$1.00 to $1.50 a day. \n\nFrom Third and Torvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, transfer \nto Market street rvest bound and get off at Turk and Mason \nstreets. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take any Market street car to the \nsame point. \n\nHotel Closter: O\'Farrell and Mason streets. $1.50 a \nday with private bath; $1.00 without, for either one or two \npersons. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial \ntravelers. Caters to a Tourist and California State trade. \n\nFrom Third and Torvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean \ncar. Line No. 20, to Mason street and rvalk one block north. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer \nto Powell street cable, get off at O\'Farrell and walk one block \nwest. \n\nFrom the steamer docks take any cab or taxicab to the hotel \nand the hotel will pay the driver. \n\nGolden Eagle Hotel: 253 Third street, between Howard \nand Folsom. European plan, 50c to $2.00 a day. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, to Folsom \nstreet. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Folsom street car, no number, \nor Howard street car, no number, to Third street. \n\nGolden West Hotel: Ellis and O\'Farrell streets. Euro- \npean plan, $1.00 a day and up, single; $1.50 a day and up, \ndouble. Cafe in connection. Commercial and tourist trade. \n\nFree bus. \n\n\n\nSome of the Hotels 39 \n\n\n\nGoodfriend Hotel: 245 Powell street, between Geary \nand O\'Farrell. European plan, $1.50 to $2.00 a day. Sam- \nple rooms for commercial travelers. \n\nFree bus. \n\nGranada Hotel: Sutter and Hyde streets. European or \nAmerican plan. Rates, European plan, $1.50 a day and up \nfor one, $2.50 a day and up for two; American, $3.50 a \nday and up for one, $6.00 a day and up for two. American \nplan dming rooms. \n\nFrom Third and Torvnsend depot taJ^e Kearn]) and Beach \ncar. No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, transfer to \nSutter street car. No. 1 , 2 or 3, and get off at Hyde street. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer \nto Sutter street car. No. / , 2 or 3, and get off at same point. \n\nGrand Central Hotel: Market and Polk streets. European \nplan, $1.50 and $2.00 a day with private bath; 75c to $1.50 \nwithout. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial \ntravelers. Caters to a commercial and tourist trade. \n\nFree bus. \n\nHerbert\'s Bachelor Hotel: 159 Powell street. With or \nwithout private bath. European plan, $1.00 a day and up, \n$6.00 a week and up. German grill in connection, always \nopen. Not a family hotel. Caters to a business men\'s trade. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Powell street and walk half a block north. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take any Market street car to \nPowell street and walk northward a block and a half. \n\nHotel Graystone: 66 Geary street. European plan, $1.00 \nto $2.50 a day. \nFree bus. \n\nHotel Hacienda: 580 O\'Farrell street. European plan, \n$1.50 a day with private bath, $1.00 a day without. Caters \nto family trade. \n\n\n\n40 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\nFrom Third and ToTi>nsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Jones street and walk one block north. \n\nFrom the Ferr^ building take any Market street car, transfer \nto Ellis street and get off at the same point. \n\nHotel Herald: Comer Eddy and Jones streets. European \nplan, $1.50 per day with private bath, $1.00 per day without; \n50c additional to above rates for two people. Cafe in con- \nnection. \n\nFrom Third and Toxvnscnd depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Jones street and walk one block south. \n\nFrom Ferr\'y building take Turk and Eddy, No. 4, passing \nthe door. \n\nHotel Holland: 161 Ellis street. European plan, $1.00 \nto $2.50 a day and 50c additional for two in a room. Caters \nto a tourist and local trade. \n\nFree bus. \n\nHotel Manx: Powell and O\'Farrell streets. European \nplan, $1.50 a day and up. Grill in connection. Sample \nrooms for commercial travelers. Caters to a tourist. State and \ncommercial trade. \n\nBus at 25c per person, or \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Powell street and Walk one block north. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer \nto Powell street, or take the Geary Street Municipal Railway \nto Powell street and walk \xc2\xab ^^^^f block south. \n\nMission Central Hotel: Sixteenth and Valencia streets, in \nthe Mission District; 75 rooms; single or en suite. European \nplan; 75c to $1.50 a day. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 1 5, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, to Market \nstreet and transfer to Valencia car. No. 9, passing the door. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Valencia car No. 9. \n\nHotel Normandie: Sutter and Gough streets. European \nor American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and up; \n\n\n\nSome of the Hotels 41 \n\nAmerican, $2.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Caters \nto a family and tourist trade. \nFree automobile bus. \n\nPacific States Hotel: 556 California street, between Mont- \ngomery and Kearny. European plan only ; no cafe or grill. \nRooms $1.00 a day; with private bath, $1.50. \n\nFree bus, or \n\nFrom Third and Torvnsend depot take Line 15 or 16; from \nsteamer docks take Line 16; from the Ferr\\) building walk \nup Market to California street cable car, tphich passes the door. \n\nPalace Hotel: Market street, between Third and New \nMontgomery. 680 rooms. European plan, $2.50 a day and \nup. Cafe and grill in connection. Sample rooms for com- \nmercial travelers. \n\nBus from all depots at 50c a passenger, or \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Kearn]) and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky* No. 16, to Market \nstreet and rvalk east half a block- \n\nFrom the Ferr}^ building take any Market street car, passing \nthe door. \n\nHotel Potter: Mission and Ninth streets. European plan, \n50c to $1.00 per day; $2.50 to $4.00 a week. Cafe in \nconnection. \n\nFrom Third and ToTvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, and transfer at Mission street to west bound car. \n\nFrom Ferry building take any Mission street car. \n\nHotel Regent: 562 Sutter street. European or American \nplan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and up; American, \n$2.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, and \ntransfer at Sutter to west bound Sutter street car. No. 1 , 2 or 3. \npassing the door. \n\nFrom Ferry building take any Market street car to Sutter \nstreet and transfer to Sutter street car, No. 1 , 2, or 3. \n\n\n\n42 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nHotel Richelieu: Van Ness avenue and Geary street. Eu- \nropean or American plan. Rates, European, $1.50 a day \nand up; American, $3.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot taf^e Kearny^ and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, transfer \nto Cear^ Street Municipal Railxpay and get off at Van Ness \navenue. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- \nrvay to the same point. \n\n\n\n\nUNION SQUARE AND THE ST. FRANCIS HOTEL. \n\nRoehampton Hotel: 419 Golden Gate avenue, corner of \nLarkin. European plan, 75c a day and up. Caters to a com- \nmercial and tourist trade. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Market street, transfer to McAllister street, \nget off at Larkin and walk a block north. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take McAllister street car. Line \nNo. 5, to Larkin street, and rvalk a block north. \n\nHotel St. Francis: Powell and Geary streets, facing Union \nSquare Park, 1 ,000 rooms ; single or en suite. European plan, \n\n\n\nSome of the Hotels 43 \n\n\n\n$2.00 a day and up. Cafe and grill in connection. Sample \nrooms for commercial travelers. \n\nBus from all depots at 50c a passenger, or \n\nFrom Third and Torvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky^ ^o. 16, transfer \nto Geary Street Municipal Railway and get off at Powell street. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- \nway to Powell street. \n\nHotel St. James: Van Ness avenue, near McAllister street. \nEuropean plan, 75c a day and up. Cafe in connection. \nCaters to a family trade, tourists, out of town agents. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Market street, transfer to McAllister car. \nLine No. 5, and get off at Van Ness avenue. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take McAllister No. 5, to Van \nNess avenue. \n\nSan Marco Hotel: 386 Geary street. Each room with \nprivate bath. European plan, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe in \nconnection. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Mason street and walk two blocks north. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- \nway, passing the door. \n\nHotel Sorrento: 364 O\'Farrell street, between Mason and \nTaylor. All rooms with private bath. European plan, $1.50 \nto $2.50 a day. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Taylor street and walk one block north. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- \nWay to Taylor street and walk one block south. \n\nHotel Stanford: 250 Kearny street. European plan, \n$1.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for \ncommercial travelers. Caters to country trade. \n\n\n\n44 Handboo}( for San Francisco \n\nFrom Third and To\'wnsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky^ ^o. 16, passing \nthe door. \n\nFrom the Ferr]) building take Third and Kentucky No. 16, \npassing the door. \n\nHotel Stratford: 242 Powell street, near Geary. Euro- \npean plan, 75c to $2.50 a day. \n\nFree bus, or hotel mil pay cab or taxicab charge. \n\nHotel Stervart: 353 Geary street. European or American \nplan; with or without private bath. Rates, European, $1.50 \na day and up; American, $3.50 a day and up. Cafe in con- \nnection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. \n\nBus from depots and docks at 25c a person, or \n\nFrom Third and Toipnsend depot take Third street car and \ntransfer to Geary street direct to hotel. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- \nTvay, passing the door. \n\nHotel Sutter: Sutter and Kearny streets. European plan, \n$2.00 a day and up with private bath; $1.50 a day and up \nwithout bath. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- \nmercial travelers. \n\nFrom Third and Totvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky y No. 16, passing \nthe door. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Sutter street car. No. 1 , 2 or \n3, to Kearny street, or \n\nHotel will pay cab or taxicab charge. \n\nHotel Tallac: 140 Ellis street. European plan, $1.00 a \nday and up. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, passing the door. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take any Market street car to \nPowell street and walk \xc2\xab block north to Ellis, or transfer to \nEllis street car, passing the door. \n\n\n\nSome of the Hotels 45 \n\nHotel Terminal: 60 Market street. European plan, $1.00 \nto $2.00 a day. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- \nmercial travelers. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16 and trans- \nfer to Market street car east bound. \n\nFrom Ferr}^ building this hotel is within a short ivalk directh \nup Market street on north side. All Market street cars pass \nthe door. \n\nHotel Turpin: 17 Powell street. With or without private \nbath. European plan, $1.50 to $4.00 a day. Sample rooms \nfor commercial travelers can be arranged. Caters to a family \nand commercial trade. \n\nFrom Third and ToTvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \nLine No. 20, to Powell street and walk half a block south. \n\nFrom the Ferry^ building take any Market street car to \nPowell street and walk half a block north. \n\nUnion Square Hotel: Post and Stockton streets, overlook- \ning Union Square. European or American plan. Rates, Eu- \nropean, $1.00 to $2.00 a day; American, $3.00 to $4.00 a \nday. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial trav- \nelers. \n\nBus from docks and depots at 25c a person, or \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach \ncar. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, transfer \nto Sutter street car. Line No. 1 , 2 or 3, west bound, get off at \nStockton street and walk one block south. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Sutter street car. Line No. /, \n2 or 3, get off at Stockton street and walk one block south. \n\nHotel Victoria: Bush and Stockton streets. European or \nAmerican plan. Rates, European, $1.00 to $2.50 a day; \nAmerican, $3.50 to $5.00 a day. Dining room in connec- \ntion. Caters to a tourist and family trade. \n\nFrom Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. \n\n\n\n46 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nLine No. 20, transfer to Powell street, get off at Bush and \nTDalk one block east. \n\nFrom the Ferry building take Sutter street car. Line No. /, \n2 or 3, to Stockton street and Tvalk one block north. \n\nHotel Von Dorn: 242 Turk street. European or Amer- \nican plan. With or without private bath. Rates, European, \n$1.00 to $3.00 a day; American, $2.50 to $4.50 a day. \nCafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. \nCaters to commercial, family and Army and Navy patrons. \n\nFree bus. \n\n\n\nTOURIST AGENCIES, VALIDATING OFFICES, \nINFORMATION BUREAUS, TICKET OFFICES. \n\nAddresses are given as they were in 1913. If offices have \nbeen moved, consult the telephone directory. \n\nThos. Cook ^ Sons\' office is at 689 Market street. \n\nDunning, H. W. & Co. : Claus Spreckels building, 703 \nMarket street, corner Third. \n\nRaymond & Whitcomb : Monadnock building, 681 Mar- \nket street. \n\nEms-Bourne Tours Co. (Ltd.) : Phelan building, 760 \nMarket street. \n\n\xe2\x80\xa2 Exposition Tour Co. (San Francisco) : Russ building, 235 \nMontgomery street. \n\nPeck-Judah Co., Inc., Free Information Bureau: 687 \nMarket street, in the Monadnock building; offers an extremely \nuseful free information service. \n\nRound trip tickets are validated in the office of the railroad \non which the traveler leaves San Francisco. \n\nThe Southern Pacific Company maintains a complete infor- \nmation bureau in the Ferry building, south of the main wait- \ning room; another at 884 Market street, in the Flood building, \n\n\n\nTourist Agencies, Etc. 47 \n\nand a third at the Palace Hotel. Travelers can make the \ntwo uptown offices their headquarters, and will find there writ- \ning desks and stationery for their use. \n\nA full information service is maintained by the Western \nPacific at the Ferry building and 665 Market street; by the \nAtchison, TopeJ^a & Santa Fe at its offices in the Monadnock \nbuilding, and by the Northwestern Pacific at the Ferry building \nand at 874 Market street. \n\nTime tables of all railroad and steamship lines operating on \nthe Pacific Coast, and rates of fare to all points on the Coast, \nwill be found corrected monthly in the Railroad Blue Book, \nfor sale at all news stands and on trains at 1 5 cents. \n\nVessel movements to and from San Francisco and important \ncoast ports, including Hawaii, are reported daily except Sun- \ndays in The Guide, published at 2 1 5 Leidesdorff street. \n\nMost of the railroad and steamship ticket offices are grouped, \nat present, in the Flood building, Market and Powell streets, \nand vicinity; the Monadnock building, on Market near Third \nstreet, and the Palace Hotel on Market at New Montgomery. \n\n\n\nBATHS AND NATATORIA. \n\nSan Francisco is well supplied with baths and swimming \nresorts, most of them rebuilt after the fire on well-considered \nplans. \n\nOne of the largest and handsomest institutions of the sort is \nthe Lurline Ocean Water Baths, in a Pompeian building at \nBush and Larkin streets, accessible, by transfer, from all Mar- \nJ^et or Sutter street cars. \n\nHere is a swimming pool 65x140 feet, supplied with filtered \nocean water. There are apartments for Turkish, Russian and \nelectric light baths. The tub rooms are fitted with fresh and \nsalt water and with showers. Open until 10 p. m., from 6 \na. m. during the months from April to October inclusive, and \nafter 7 a. m. from November to March, inclusive. The use of \n\n\n\n48 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\ntub or natatorium is at the rate of 40 cents, or three tickets for \n$1 for adults. Children under 12, 20 cents. \n\nThe Sutro Baths, at Point Lobos, vicinity of the Cliff House, \nare the largest institution of the kind in the world. They can \nbe reached by Sutter and California line No. 1 marked \'\'Cliff,\'\' \nby Sutter and Clement line No. 2, McAllister No. 5, Ellis \nand Ocean No. 20, or b^ the California street Cable by \ntransfer. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\xc2\xaby r \n\n\n\nGifAAD STAUa\'ASK, SUTIfU i\'.ATll.S. \n\nThe building is open from 7 in the morning until 1 1 at \nnight, in summer, and in winter, from November to May, it \nis open until 6 p. m. There is an admittance fee of a dime for \nadults and five cents for children, and the bathing privileges \nare at the rate of 40 cents for adults or three tickets for a \ndollar, and 25 cents for children or five tickets for a dollar. \n\nHAMMAM OR TURKISH BATHS, open to the pub- \nlic are: \n\nBurns\' Hammam, 229 Ellis street, between Mason and \nTaylor. Turkish or Russian; salt water plunge; open day \n\n\n\nBaths and Natatoria 49 \n\nand night; separate ladies\' department. Baths $1.00, which \nincludes sleeping accommodations for the night. Can be \nreached by Ha^es and Ellis car. Line No. 21 , on transfer from \nany Market street line. \n\nSultan Baths, 624 Post street, between Taylor and Jones. \nTurkish or Russian ; fresh water plunge ; open day and night ; \nseparate ladies\' department. Baths $1.00, including sleeping \naccommodations for the night. This establishment also has \nregular hotel rooms at a charge of $1.00. Taf(e Montgomer}^ \nand Tenth street line (no number) by transfer from Market at \nPost and Montgomer\'^; or Sixth and Sansome line tp transfer \nfrom Market at Taylor street. \n\nEmpress Turkish Baths, 957 Market street, between Fifth \nand Sixth streets; men only; Turkish or Russian, or Nauheim \nmedicated; salt water plunge; baths $1.00 or 6 tickets for \n$5.00. Includes sleeping accommodations for the night. \n\n85 Third Street; men only; Turkish and Russian; open \nday and night. Baths 75c, including sleeping accommodations \nfor the night. Kearny line No. 15, or Kentucky No. 16. \n\nJames Lick Baths, 1 65 Tenth street, between Mission and \nHoward; tubs; for men, women and children; open daily, 12 \nto 6 p. m. ; Saturdays, 1 2 to 8 p. m. ; Sundays, 7:30 to 10 \na. m. ; baths 1 5 cents. \n\nMontgomery and Tenth street car line (no number). Market \nNo. 8, Valencia No. 9, Sunnyside No. 10, Tn>enty-fourth and \nMission No. 11, Ingleside No. 12, Cemeteries No. 14, Ocean \nVieD) No. 26, Howard (no number). \n\nAlameda Baths, in Alameda. A popular open-air swim- \nming resort during the season. Southern Pacific ferry to Ala- \nmeda Pkr, and Encingl Loop lino, to Fifth street. \n\n\n\n50 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\nRESTAURANTS. CAFES, GRILLS. \n\nAlmost everyone that has heard of San Francisco has heard \nof its French restaurants. They are famous among travelers \ncind people fond of good living, and the cuisine and service are \nnot surpassed anyv/here. \n\nDining out is so general that one must know the restaurants \nto know the city. Early conditions of prosperity established \ntheir character. Nothing was too good for the daring and \nsuccessful San Franciscans of early days. There was an abun- \ndant food supply, and good cooks came from France and \nItaly. The demand for the best cookery was intensified in the \nsixties and seventies by the open-handed, epicurean brokers and \nspeculators of the Comstock days. High standards then set \nhave never been departed from, but the prices are still the \nlowest to be found. At some of the best San Francisco res- \ntaurants the charge for table d\'hote is from 75 cents to $L25, \nand this for a dinner, with wine, that could not be approached \nin the large Eastern cities for $3. A good dinner can be \nobtained for 50 cents. \n\nWHAT TO EAT. \n\nThe locality has produced its peculiar delicacies. Its "cold \ncracked crab and beer" have been sung in nostalgic numbers \nby more than one exile. The crabs are a large, hard-shelled \nsort, of most delicate taste, found only on the Pacific Coast. \n\nCalifornia oysters, contrary to the rule in other products, \nare very small, about the size of a twenty-five cent piece, but \ntheir coppery savor has tickled the palate and evoked the \npraise of many a gourmand from Mobile, or New Orleans, or \nthe shores of the Chesapeake, where people know oysters. The \nsmall, salty white shrimp is a tidbit of the bay waters that is \nhighly prized. It is often served with oysters, especially in \nthe oyster booths of the different markets, but is less abun- \ndant of late, owing to the prohibition of the Chinese shrimp net. \n\nGood pompano is caught near at hand, but it is not so much \nappreciated here as elsewhere because of competition, on the \n\n\n\nRestaurants, Cafes, Grills 51 \n\nmenu, with the local "sand dab," a small, flat fish, like a \nsole, but daintier. When properly cooked, dry and golden \n"a la King," the sand dab is one of the real treasures of the \nsea. \n\nMussels are a marine delicacy apt to be new to the \nstranger. \n\nFrench bread is another delight of San Francisco. It comes \nin long loaves of glutinous crumb and crisp golden crust, such as \nyou find in Paris, but not elsewhere. \n\nArtichokes were early introduced by the French population, \nand grow in abundance, having found a peculiarly congenial \nclimate. \n\nEvery form of Italian paste is manufactured here as well \nas it can be made in Italy, and cooked to perfection in San \nFrancisco\'s French and Italian restaurants \xe2\x80\x94 lasagne, tagliarini, \nmacaroni, spaghetti, ravioli \xe2\x80\x94 with a sauce of stock, dried \nmushrooms, a soupcon of tomato and perhaps a dash of saf- \nfron; inimitable at home. Try the "fritto misto," the "fried \nmix." If one brown dainty fails to suit you, there is plenty of \nvariety. Polenta, made of corn meal, and risotto, made of \nrice, with the paste sauce, are typically Italian and excellent. \nThe climax of an Italian dinner should be a tumbler of sam- \nbaione, or sabayone, however it may be spelled. It is a sort \ncf baked eggnog, made with imported Marsala wine. \n\nSquabs are not peculiar to San Francisco, but gourmands \nsay that nobody knows what a squab can taste like until he \nhas eaten one prepared at one of the better-class Chinese res- \ntaurants, in Chinatown. \n\nThese trifles are well to know; but the homely viand of San \nFranciscans of every class, except the rare dyspeptic, the \nmaterial of midnight suppers for rich and poor, at home and \n"down town," is the modest but caloric "tamale," a sort of \nMexican and Indian ambrosia of chicken and pounded corn. \nFRENCH RESTAURANTS. \n\nOne of the famous French restaurants of the city is the \n"Poodle Dog," on Mason street, between Eddy and Ellis. The \n\n\n\n52 Handbook for San Francisco \n\n"Poodle Dog" began its interesting career as a purveyor to \nepicures on Dupont street, near Clay, moved south to Dupont \nand Bush, moved again to Eddy and Mason street, and after \nthe fire to its present location. It took its name from the \npoodle of the original proprietor. At the Bush and Dupont \nstreet location the "Old Poodle Dog" continued business until \nthe fire, and this, too, was a favorite dining place. There were \npatrons for both, and both were excellent. The "Old Poodle \nDog" merged, after the fire, with "Frank\'s" and "Bergez\'s," \nequally popular with discriminating diners-out, and the com- \nposite institution will be found at 42 I Bush street, just above \nKearny, where the standards of the old places are well main- \ntained. \n\nNew Franks, 447 Pine street, is a French restaurant of the \ntype of the old days where the dining room is plain but the \ncookmg excellent. \n\nNeedless to say, San Franciscans "love music with their \nmeals" and at most of these restaurants they get it. \n\nMarchand\'s, another old favorite, is now conducted by \nMichel, an attache of the old place, at the northeast corner ot \nGeary and Mason street. Down Geary street, toward the \nSquare, are Solari\'s and the New Delmonico, both good. \n\nA good French restaurant is the St. Germain, at 60-64 \nEllis street, near the Cort Theater. The Cosmos, at 658 Mar- \nket street, Borlini\'s, at 714 Market, and Lombardi\'s, at 161 \nSutter, are all good. \n\nA favorite in the financial district before the fire, was \nJules\'. It is now in the Monadnock Building and upholds its \nformer reputation. Then there is Blanco\'s, at 857 O\'Farrell \nstreet, Jack\'s Rotisserie, at 615 Sacramento street, between \nKearny and Montgomery, a good place for game; Negro\'s at \n625 Merchant street; Felix\' at 643 Montgomery, where the \npastes are good and the walls are decorated with creditable \npaintings. \n\n\n\nRestaurants, Cafes, Grills 53 \n\nThe Mint, at 61 5 Commercial street, just off Montgomery, is \na snug and cosy sort of place, where a cheerful coal fire blazes \non winter evenings. It is opposite the old Sub-Treasury build- \ning, which stood on the site of the United States Mint in which \nBret Harte held a position as secretary to the superintendent. \n\nFrank\'s New Restaurant, at 447 Pine street, opposite the \nCalifornia market serves an excellent table d\'hote. \n\nThe gala night life of the city surges about the brilliant \ncafes at the junction of Market, Eddy and Powell streets: \nthe Portola-Louvre in the Flood building, the Odeon at the \nEddy street gore, the Techau Tavern at 7 Powell street; and \nthe Tait-Zinkand, or "Tait\'s", at 168 O\'Farrell street, oppo- \nsite the Orpheum. Some of these supply entertainment of the \nvaudeville or cabaret type. Here the sparkle and vivacity of \nSan Francisco bubble forth after the theater and make the \nsmaller hours the merriest. Tables for Christmas and New \nYear\'s eve celebrations must be engaged far in advance. \n\nOne distinctive type of restaurant was multiplied by the fire \n\xe2\x80\x94 those claiming lineal descent from the old "Fly-Trap," or \nFashion Restaurant. Before the fire there was but one, at the \nfoot of Sutter street, a sort of French-Italian place, renowned \nfor the moderation of its charges and the excellence of its \nfish and ducks. There are several now, conducted on about \nthe same plan and scale, reproducing with fidelity the quality \nand service of the original. One is on the south side of Sutter \nstreet just below Montgomery. Another, Louis\' Fashion, is \non Market street at 524. Charley\'s Fashion is at the south- \neast corner of Ellis street and Anna Lane, and there is also \na Charlie\'s Fly Trap at 507 Market. \n\nITALIAN RESTAURANTS. \n\nGenerally speaking there is no hard-and-fast distinction be- \ntween the French and Italian restaurants in the business section \nof the city, and either may serve the other sort of table d\'hote \non request. In fact the art of serving these dinners is now \nSan Franciscan as much as Parisian or Milanese or Florentine. \n\n\n\n54 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nIn the Latin quarter, however, there is a group of restau- \nrants that are distinctively Itahan. They may be found along \nBroadway near the crossings of Kearny street and Columbus \navenue. Here are the Trovatore, the New Buon Gusto, the \nFior D\'ltalia, and the Dante. One is apt to hear good \nmusic at the dinner hour, especially at the last named. To the \nepicure, the Italian dishes served at these places have no equal. \nPrices are moderate. \n\nAt 1549 Stockton street, near Columbus avenue, is the \nGianduja, one of the best Italian restaurants, where the cook- \nery is especially good. \n\nDown on Davis street near the Colombo Market is an- \nother group of Italian restaurants, some of them of a more \nparticular fame among nocturnal San Franciscans. The mar- \nket is on Davis street, between Clark and Pacific, opposite Getz \nBrothers\' wholesale establishment. Beside the market entrance, \nand at the Clark street corner, is Lucchetti\'s where the cook- \ning is of the genuine Italian family sort, and the place itself \nhas a flavor as pronounced. Here you get grated cheese in \nyour soup, the pastes are good, the Bordelaise redolent of just \nthe proper amount of garlic, the electric piano plays for a \nnickel-in-the-slot and sometimes tempts the patrons out on \nthe floor for a dance between courses. For the better guidance \nof those that do not like such things it should be said that \nthere is a bar in the main dining room. \n\nOn the other side of the market entrance is Sanguinetti\'s, \nequally well-known. Each place has its clientele. Along \nDavis street, toward Market, are the Lido, another Gianduja, \nand several other Italian places. \n\n"Coppa\'s" has long held a warm place in the affections of \nthe artist-Bohemian crowd. Before the fire it was in the \nsouthwest corner of the Montgomery block, at the corner of \nMontgomery and Merchant streets, where walls and ceiling \nwere decorated with the grotesque fancies of its artist fre- \nquenters. You will find a good expression of the spirit of the \nplace in Gelett Burgess\' novel of San Francisco life, "The \n\n\n\nRestaurants, Cafes, Grills \n\n\n\n55 \n\n\n\n\nCLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS. \n\n\n\nHeart Line." Coppa\'s is now at 450 Pine street, and you \nmay know it by the black cats painted on the bay tree boxes \nin front. Follow them inside and you will see astonishing art \nworks on the walls. \n\nAnother place of distinctive character is Bonini\'s Barn res- \ntaurant, at 609 Washington street, just off Montgomery. A \ntruss of hay marks the spot. Here you dine agriculturally, \namong mangers, under rafters from which wisps of fodder \nprotrude, in the company of stuffed fowls which seem about \nto cackle over the omelets that are served by waiters in chap- \nerajos. \n\nMilan & Dan\'s at 123 Powell, is another old favorite in that \nneighborhood ; which is well supplied with good bakery luncheon \nplaces. \n\nHigh in the regard of old San Franciscans is the name of \nCampi\'s, one of the earliest Italian and French restaurants. By \nsuccessive removals it has traversed the business district from \nMerchant and Sansome streets to the Claus Spreckels building \n\n\n\n56 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nat Third and Market. It was founded in 1854, and still re- \ntains a few patrons of the early days. \n\nMEXICAN AND SPANISH RESTAURANTS. \n\nOne should make the acquaintance of the Mexican res- \ntaurants of San Francisco. It should be remembered that \nMexican cookery is the cookery of the abstemious Spanish \npeople, with Indian corn added to the larder. Here thrive \nthe tamale, "chili con carne," frijoles, first stay of the early \ngold miners, and the enchilada. But be temperate with the \nsauce in the little oval dish. It is even redder than it looks. \n\nThere are two good Mexican restaurants in the Latin quar- \nter: Matias\' Mexican, at 726 Broadway, and the City of Mex- \nico, at 734 Broadway. A couple of Spanish restaurants in \nother parts of the city are, the Castilian cafe, at 344 Sutter \nstreet, between Grant avenue and Stockton, and La Madrilena, \nat 1 77 Eddy, near Taylor. \n\nThe Creef^ Colony occupies the vicinity of Folsom street, \nfrom Third west, with its commercial part strung along the \nlatter thoroughfare. Here are cafes and restaurants, with the \nsigns printed in the alphabet of Xenophon; the Acropolis, the \nMacedonia, the Venus, the Constantinople and others. There \nis nothing to eat in the Greek cafes \xe2\x80\x94 no refreshment except \ntiny cups of coffee thick with the powdered berry and sweet- \nened to the taste of syrup, which you sip at little marble top \ntables while you watch the scions of old Athenians smoking the \nhookah, or playing dominoes and pool. \n\nFor Greek cooking and Greek wines, go to the restaurants, \nnot the cafes. \n\nGRILLS. \n\nSome of the places known distinctively as grills achieved \nfame for their ducks, terrapin, crab a la Newburg, and other \nspecialties. One of these is "John\'s" at 57 Ellis (formerly \nwith Gobey). Gobey himself is dead but his widow con- \nducts a grill at 1 40 Union Square avenue, the little street that \n\n\n\nRestaurants, Cafes, Grills 57 \n\npoints directly at the Dewey Column, from Grant avenue \nbetween Geary and Post. Next to Gobey\'s is Girard\'s, of the \nsame family, with a good patronage from the physicians and \nprofessional men that have offices near. The Bay State grill \nat 275 O\'Farrell street, is good for any sort of meal. \n\nCollins & Wheeland, at 347 Montgomery street, conduct \na bar and grill much frequented by brokers and professional \nmen that have their offices in the financial center and are fond \nof good salads and good beef. It is one of the old institutions \nof the city. \n\nGerman grills are plentiful in San Francisco, and remark- \nably good. In the lower part of town there is Schroeder\'s, a \nplace for men, at 1 1 7 Front street, near California. Prices \nare moderate and the cooking excellent. Another is the Com- \nmercial restaurant, at 225 Pine. Another German cafe for \nmen, and one at which the prices are very modest is the \nHammonia, at 453 Bush street, near Grant avenue. Farther \nup town, for men and women, and slightly more elaborate, are \nBeth\'s, at 9 Ellis; the Heidelberg, at 37 Ellis; and the Hof- \nBrau, in the Pacific building at Market and Fourth streets. \nThen there is the grill in Herbert\'s Bachelor Hotel at 151-159 \nPowell. \n\nOYSTERS AND SHELL-FISH. \n\nFor oysters and other shell-fish, including San Francisco \nshrimps, the clawless lobster of the coast and the delicious hard- \nshell crab that is found only here, there are good stalls in \nthe larger markets, such as the California Market, on Pine \nstreet, between Montgomery and Kearny; and in the Spreckels, \nthe Washington, the Lincoln and the Bay City, all of which \nare situated in Market street between Third and Sixth. The \nPearl oyster house in the California Market has been a favor- \nite resort with San Franciscans for two generations. Its founder \nis one of the proprietors of the Portola-Louvre. Mayes\' Oyster \nHouse, in the Cahfornia Market has a branch at 30 Third \nstreet, and another at Sutter and Polk. \n\n\n\n58 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nAnother well-known place is the Oyster Loaf, at 55 Eddy \nstreet. \n\nAmong the best restaurants making a specialty of shell-fish \nis Darbee & Immel\'s Shell-Fish Grotto, at 245 O\'Farrell \nstreet. This is the only restaurant making a specialty of shell- \nfish dinners exclusively. \n\nBREAKFAST AND LUNCHEON. \n\nGood dinners necessitate dainty breakfasts, and San Fran- \nciscans have the places that supply them. In 1876 the Vienna \nModel bakery opened on Kearny street with the sort of service \nand fare it had been giving at the Centennial exposition at \nPhiladelphia in that year. It met with immediate success, \nand became a cherished institution. The name and traditions \nare preserved on O\'Farrell street, opposite "Tait\'s," and near \nthe Orpheum. At the Golden Pheasant, on Geary street near \nMarket, one can get as fine a breakfast and luncheon as any- \nwhere in the country, for as little money. Swan\'s, another \nbakery restaurant at 140 O\'Farrell street is very good. This \nis not to say that these places do not serve dinner. \n\nA dainty place in the shopping district is the Tea Cup, up \nstairs at 225 Post street, near Grant avenue. \n\nA very popular place in the lower part of town, and one \nwhere home cooking is served, is Grover\'s, at 121 California \nstreet. It started in a tent after the great fire. It is not open \nevenings. \n\nThe Emporium department store on Market street, between \nFourth and Fifth has a good luncheon place. So has Hale \nBros., Inc., at the corner of Fifth and Market, where there is \na cafeteria and a Pompeian cafe. \n\nThe California Poppy, at 738 Market street, is a good place \nfor luncheon and tea. \n\nFor good service at any time of day at reasonable prices, \nSuhr\'s, at 723 Market can be recommended. For luncheon, or \nafternoon tea, the Women\'s Exchange, at 70 Post street, oppo- \n\n\n\nRestaurants, Cafes, Grills 59 \n\nsite the Mechanics-Mercantile Hbrary, is good, and moderate in \nits charges. \n\nTHE CLIFF HOUSE, AND HIRAM COOK\'s GRILL. \n\nThe Chff House is a cafe and restaurant that is famous all \nover the world. It should be mentioned again that this is a res- \ntaurant, not a hotel. \n\nAnd not least, but last because farthest out and more of a \nluxury for people that like to range abroad by trolley car or \nautomobile, is Hiram Cook\'s Grill and Buffet, on Nineteenth \navenue between Vicente and Wawona streets, in the Parkside \ndistrict. \n\nThe fashionable life of the city can be seen at luncheon \nor dinner at the St. Francis or the Palace Hotel. At the \nformer afternoon tea is served in the Tapestry Room, and at \nthe latter in the large court. \n\n\n\nWALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. \n\n/. \xe2\x80\x94 An Hour\'s Walk in the Downtown District \xe2\x80\x94 The Stock \n\nExchange. \n\nFrom Lotta\'s Fountain, at the junction of Market, Kearny \nand Third streets, where flowers are sold in the open air the \n>ear around and the Christmas eve outdoor music festivals are \nheld, walk north three blocks to Bush. \n\nAlmost at the beginning, at 50 Kearny street, you come \nto one of the show-places of the city \xe2\x80\x94 the Diamond Palace \nof Col. Andrews. The show window displays examples of \nthe quartz jewelry that appealed to the San Franciscans of an \nearly day. Within, it is a place of mirrors endlessly reflecting \nthe splendors of white Corinthian columns and crystal chan- \ndeliers, and of paintings of the dazzling figures of history and \nthe Old Testament. Overhead is a portrait of the Colonel \nhimself, one of the most picturesque of pioneer San Franciscans. \n\n\n\n60 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nWalk eastward down Bush street, here the third street \nfrom Market. About the center of the block, on the south \nside, at No. 353 Bush, you come to the San Francisco StocJ^ \nExchange. This is the leading mining stock bourse of the \nworld, the institution through which was transacted more busi- \nness, in the days of the Comstock mining excitement, than on \nany other exchange at that time. Its home here is temporary, \nbuilt on a leasehold to serve immediate necessity after the fire \nof 1906. \n\nYou may enter the "visitors\' gallery" railed off for clients, \nback of the main floor where the trading is done. The brokers \nhave a youthful appearance, but here and there among them \nyou will see the gray head of an old-timer, who remembers \nthe world-famous deals of the "Seventies" and expects more \nlike them "when the water is pumped out of the Comstock \nand the workings are opened down to the three-thousand foot \nlevel." \n\nThe exchange was organized in 1 862. \n\nAs much as $43,000 was bid for a seat in 1875, with no \nseller. \n\nThe Comstock lode itself lies along the eastern side of Mt. \nDavidson, in the Washoe range, Nevada, for a distance of \nabout two miles. \n\nOn the quotation board you can read the principal names \nof the underground hoards \xe2\x80\x94 Ophir, Gould & Curry, Con. \nVirginia, California, Kentuck, Mexican, Savage, Best & \nBelcher, Hale & Norcross, Crown Point, Potosi, Yellow \nJacket, Chollar ; hoards that produced mogul\'s ransoms, names \nthat conjured across the continent and across the ocean some \nof the most adventurous men the nineteenth century produced. \n\nSuch a scene as this was the stage of one of the golden \nromances of California, and the focus of interest for the \nmighty figures that stalked through it; such men as James R. \nKeene, a dominant figure in Wall street during these later \nyears and until his death in January, 1913; Flood & O\'Brien, \n"Lucky" Baldwin, John P. Jones and William M. Stewart \n\n\n\nM; \n\n\n\nAn Hour\'s Walk Down Town \n\n\n\nof Nevada, George Hearst, Mark McDonald, Alvinza Hay- \nward, William Sharon, John W. Mackay, James G. Fair, \nGeorge I. Ives. Jones, Stewart, } (earst, Sharon and Fair \nbecame United States senators. Th( e men were giants, and \nthe tradition of them remains as a vital part of the conscious- \nness of San Francisco, a thing that helps give it, as a city, a \nfeeling of individuality and distinction. \n\nThere is still much trading in Comstocks, and to it has \nbeen added the operations in Southern Nevada shares \xe2\x80\x94 Gold- \nfield, Tonopah, Manhattan, Bullfrog \xe2\x80\x94 and a consolidation \nhas recently been effected with the oil exchange, so that a \nquite considerable business is focussed at this point. There are \nthree regular sessions and one long informal session a day. \nThe mining session opens at 9:30 a. m., and is followed by \ninformal trading that may continue until 2:15. The oil board \nsessions open at 11:15 a. m., and 1:15 p. m. The caller \nis Joseph L. King, chairman of the board and author of a live- \nly history of it. \n\nLooking down Bush street, one sees at the corner of Mont- \ngomery the Mills building, an office building erected by the \nlate D. O. Mills. A block beyond, at the northwest corner \nof Sansome, is the building of the Standard Oil Company of \nCalifornia, in which are housed all the general offices of the \ncorporation. If you were to follow this block around you \nwould come to the site of the new United States Sub-Treasury^ \nbuilding, at the southwest corner of Pine and Sansome street, \nwhich will cost, complete, $834,300, and with equipment \nwill probably come to $1,000,000. \n\nRetrace your steps on Bush street and continue westward \nto Grant avenue, passing "Bergez, Frank\'s, Old Poodle Dog, \none of the famous French restaurants of San Francisco. At \nthe corner of Grant avenue you can look up to the right and \nsee the pagoda-like ornamentation on the buildings at the en- \ntrance to Chinatown, which we shall leave for another one of \nthese "walks." \n\n\n\n62 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nFor the present, turn southward (towards Market street). \n\nOn the right hand side of Grant avenue is the book ^hop of \nPaul Elder, a place of distinction. The interior is simply and \nharmoniously Gothic, sc craftily planned and consistently exe- \ncuted that it conveys an irresistible spell of medievalism. \n\nThis is the neighborhood of fine jewelry stores, fur stores \nthat offer furs as fine as any to be found in London, galleries \nof interesting paintings, which the public is welcome to visit. \n\nUnion Square is just beyond, a palm garden set in the midst \nof hotels and smart shops. Its east line is Stockton street, and \ndown about half way of the square, at the corner of the nar- \nnow street called Union Square avenue, is A. M. Robertson s \nbook store, notable for its varied stock which the owner is con- \ntinually enriching by his own publications of such writers as \nAmbrose Bierce, Herman Scheffauer and George Sterling. \nThis publisher has probably done more to make California \nauthors and Western literature known than any other one man. \n\nOn the west side of the Square, occupying the site of old \nCalvary Presbyterian church, is the Hotel St. Francis, equal \nin appointment and service to any hotel in the world. \n\nThe Deive}) monument rises in the center of Union Square, \ncommemorating the victory of Manila Bay. \n\nLooking down Sutter to the right, one sees the Pacific Cas \n& Electric Company\'s building, decorated with a large map of \nthe Central California counties, in 30 of which this San Fran- \ncisco enterprise serves over 32 1 ,000 people with water, gas, \nand electricity for light and power. Across Sutter street \nis the Temple Emanu El, the city\'s oldest Jewish house of \nworship, the beautiful architecture of which is famous, with the \nturrets that were surmounted, before the fire of 1906, with \nthose graceful Oriental domes that became a sort of insignia \nof San Francisco. Adjoining the synagogue on the south \nis the first site of the Tivoli Opera House \xe2\x80\x94 the Tivoli Gar- \ndens of old. \n\nWestward on Sutter is one of the handsome art stores of \nthe city, that of Vickery, Atkins & Torrey. \n\n\n\nAn Hour\'s Walk Down Town \n\n\n\n63 \n\n\n\nIt would be a pity for any one that has a feeling for beau- \ntiful design and fine specimens of craftsman skill to leave San \nFrancisco without having seen this shop. \n\nThence, westward to Mason street. Beyond is a part of the \nburned district formerly occupied by old time dwellings and \n\n\n\n\nINTERIOR OF A SAN FRANCISCO RETAIL STORE. \n\n\n\na few modern hotels, now rapidly rebuilding to hotels and \napartment houses and destined to be the most densely popu- \nlated part of San Francisco. \n\nTurn down Mason toward Market. At Post is the First \nCongregational church. Looking up Post one can see on the \nright the brown brick building of the O/ijmp/c Club^ the oldest \namateur athletic organization in the world, and one of the \nfinest clubs in San Francisco. More about it can be found \nthrough the index. \n\n\n\n64 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nNext beyond the Olympic is the red brick building of an- \nother famous San Francisco Club, the Bohemian. \n\nSouthward on Mason street one comes to the building \nknown as N. S. G. W. Hall \xe2\x80\x94 the headquarters for the Native \nSons of the Golden West, a fraternal and benevolent organiza- \ntion formed among the native born sons of California to pre- \nserve the traditions of the pioneers and the spirit of state \npatriotism. \n\nAt the corner of Geary and Mason streets is "Marchand\'s," \none of the celebrated French restaurants of the city. \n\nTo your right, on Geary street is the Columbia theater, \nnoteworthy for its colorful facade. The large buildings which \nyou see beyond, at the corner of Taylor street, are the Clift \nand Bellevue hotels, among the finest in the city. \n\nFarther down Mason street, on the west side between Ellis \nand Eddy, is the famous Poodle Dog restaurant. \n\nContinuing on Mason street toward Market, one sees, down \nEddy street to the left, the new Tivoli Opera House, standing \non the site it occupied for many years when it was the fore- \nmost home of opera bouffe in the United States, and where sym- \nphonies and grand opera were produced as well. It was at \nthe Tivoli that San Francisco audiences "discovered" the voice \nand art of Luisa Tetrazzini and proclaimed to the world a \nnew operatic star. \n\nAt the foot of Mason street, on Market, is the "Native \nSons" fountain, with the romantic figure of the youthful pio- \nneer, "dedicated to the Native Sons of the Golden West, to \ncommemorate the admission of California into the Union, Sep- \ntember the ninth. Anno Domini MDCCCL." \n\nTurn down Market toward the Ferry and you will be in \nthe main stream of the city\'s life. Here, from Mason to \nKearny streets, is the thickest of the traffic, on the sidewalk \nand in the roadway. \n\nBetween these imposing Market street buildings the street \nis 120 feet wide. \n\n\n\nAn Hour\'s Walk Down Town 65 \n\nOn the other side of the street, at the corner of Powell, is \na stately pile of grey sandstone built some time before the fire \non the site of the old Baldwin hotel, by James L. Flood, son \nof James C. Flood, the great mining operator of the Comstock. \nIt is the largest office building west of Chicago and contains \nover 900 rooms. \n\nHere, at Market and Powell, is the center of the city\'s night \nlife. The whole neighborhood, from seven o\'clock on, blazes \nwith lights and swarms with automobiles and pleasure seekers. \nThis is a street of large buildings and of department stores, \nsuch as Prager\'s, Hale\'s and the Emporium. The green-tiled \nPacific building, at the corner of Fourth street, is the largest \nreinforced concrete office building in the world. (The Com- \nmercial building next to it stands on the site of the old Acad- \nemy of Sciences.) \n\nOn the north side of Market street, near Montgomery, one \nof San Francisco\'s landmarks, the Hobart building, is to be \nrebuilt during 1914, filling the last big gap in lower Market \nstreet created by the fire of 1 906. Of pressed brick front and \nterra cotta and granite trimmings, the structure will rise for \ntwenty-one stories, or a total of 3 1 5 feet. It will have a front- \nage of 92 feet 5 1 -8 inches and the ground floor will be arranged \nin attractive stores. One million dollars is the estimated cost. \n\nNext is the Humboldt Savings Bank building, 18 stories \nand 245 feet high. Farther down the street, at the corner of \nThird street. Newspaper Square, is the Claus Spreckds build- \ning, one of the most beautiful commercial buildings in the world, \n1 9 stories, counting the dome, and 3 1 5 feet high. \n\nA few more steps brings us to Lotta\'s Fountain, and News- \npaper Square. \n\nThis round can be made in an hour if you do not linger \xe2\x80\x94 \nwhich you are quite likely to do. \n\nSOME TALL BUILDINGS IN SAN FRANCISCO. \n\nHobart Building, Market below Montgomery; 21 Stories. Height, 315 ft. \nHumboldt Savings Bank Bldg., 783 Market; 18 Stories. \'* 245 " \n\nClaus Spreckels Building, Market and Third; 19 Stories. " 315 \n\n\n\n66 \n\n\n\nHandbooJ^ for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nENTRANCE TO CHINATOWN. \n\n\n\nA Walk in Chinatown 67 \n\n\n\nHearst Building, Market, Third and Kearny; 12 Stories. Height, 163 ft. \n\nMutual Savings Bank Bldg., 706 Market; 12 Stories. " 190 " \n\nChronicle Building, Market and Kearny; 17 Stories. " 219 ** \n\nMerchants\' Exchange Bldg., 431 California; 14 Stories. " 200 ** \n\nInsurance Ex. Bldg., Cal. & Leidesdorff; 11 Stories. " 167 " \n\n\n\nWALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. \n\n//. \xe2\x80\x94 Chinatoipn. \n\nSituated between Kearny and Stockton, California and \nPacific Streets. \n\nKearny Line No. 15, or Kentucky No. 16, to California \nStreet and walk ^ block Ti)est to Grant avenue; or California \nstreet cable or Sacramento street cable, to Grant avenue. \nEasily reached afoot from the downtown hotel district. \n\nYou can "do" Chinatown by automobile, taxicab, or one \nof the sight-seeing motor cars that start from Market street \nwest of Newspaper Square every evening at 8 o\'clock. These \ncars furnish guides and charge a dollar a passenger. But the \nbest way to see and enjoy it is to prowl through it afoot. \n\nYou could spend all the working days of a month going \nup and down its swarming streets and choked alleys, won- \ndering at the inscrutable denizens and their little moon-faced \nchildren, listening to the sing-song language, smelling the reek \nof leeks, punk and incense, until you acquired unconsciously \nthe habit of looking on yourself and other strayed Caucasians \nas foreigners, and still but scratch the surface of interest in this \nmost fascinating city of America. \n\nFor Chinatown is a city, of and by and for itself. There \nis nothing like it in any other part of the country, although \nthey may have the recipe for chop suey elsewhere. There \ncan not be anything like it in China, for it is at least encysted \nin a Caucasian social tissue. It is and always will be San \nFrancisco\'s Chinatown, unique and outlandish, a foreign coun- \ntry of ten city squares, supposed to be a part of Canton, or \na part of Tartary, as you please; living its own customs, \n\n\n\n68 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nrites and practices, modified by the white man\'s laws as far \nas the United States Marshal\'s office and the "Chinatown \nSquad" from the Hall of Justice are able to put them into \neffect. \n\nYet those will not find the main interest in Chinatown that \npersist in regarding it as a weird and horrible slum. It is not. \nBetween eight and nine thousand Oriental people live within \nthe few blocks of the district, almost no whites dwelling among \nthem, and while they exhibit racial peculiarities that bewilder \nthe western mind, it is safe to say that the percentage of the \nlaw-abiding is as high here as in many other parts of the city. \nAvoiding trouble is a Chinese national habit, and nowhere is the \nwhite visitor more secure in property or person. \n\nChinatown has changed, both in its "physical plant" and \ncustoms. For half a century its tenants built and burrowed \nin it, shaping it to their uses, until it was a strange place, \nfull of mystery and surprise, with picturesque curbstone in- \ndustries and sidewalk stalls, and communicating catacombs \nwhere half its population huddled, and axe-proof doors be- \nhind which some of them carried on the allied industries of \npi-gow, fan-tan, poker and lottery drawings. \n\nThese conditions have largely altered for the better. The \nfire burned out the quarter; and the unsanitary hovels with \ntheir strata of accumulated fillh, cell-like chambers, wander- \ning galleries and sidewalk encroachments disappeared. When \nChinatown rebuilt it was on modern, sanitary lines and ac- \ncording to the most approved city ordinances. \n\nTHE CHINESE TRANSITION. \n\nThe people, too, have changed. Just now they present the \nanomalies of transition from eastern to what they conceive \nto be western ways. It is the day of the Republic. The \nManchus are gone from the throne of the Middle Kingdom. \nThe Dragon Flag has disappeared from Chinatown and so \nhave the queues that once hung, a sign of Manchu domination, \ndown the backs of its merchants, bankers, pawn brokers, clam \n\n\n\nA Walk in Chinatown 69 \n\ndealers, rag pickers, down to the humblest male resident. The \ncomfortable and dignified Chinese dress is vanishing. Even \nthe tong wars grow beautifully less, and the hatchet-men that \ncarried them on are growing scarce, and hard to hire ; these \nvery tong wars, by the way, being unknown in China, and a \npeculiar reaction from conditions in this country. \n\nThe writer has been in a Chinese home in Grant avenue, \nwhere the girls and women of the household were absorbed \nin the preparation of the beautiful little stage sets used for \nthe feminist feast of the Seven Sisters \xe2\x80\x94 the Chinese myth ot \nthe Pleiades \xe2\x80\x94 pagan, and possibly as ancient as the Book of \nJob \xe2\x80\x94 and he has gone thence directly into another Chinese \nhome, behind barred doors above dark flights of stairs, where \nthe names of the daughters of the household were engrossed \non grammar school certificates hanging on the walls, and the \noaken bookcase contained such volumes as "West\'s Ancient \nWorld," a source-book of English history, and a copy ol \nBryant\'s translation of the Odyssey. \n\nIn the history of the Chinese revolution, San Francisco should \nloom large as a factor. When the death of Tsi Ann weak- \nened the Manchu tyranny, these San Francisco Cantonese \nhad been living for three generations in contact with a virile \nwestern civilization, and were able to testify to their home-keep- \ning countrymen that China\'s institutions were not built above the \nsummit of human intelligence, and possibly could be improved. \nHere Dr. Sun Yat Sen was given asylum ten years ago, and \nthe movement received organized support. Here was estab- \nlished the Chinese Republic Association, one of the most pow- \nerful influences outside of China in bringing about the down- \nfall of the Manchus. \n\nSome old customs have been modified, but much remains. \nThe principal festivals are still kept. These people have a \ngenius for elaborate decoration, which finds no field in the \nSpartan bareness of their homes, but blossoms out in vivid \ncolor and fantastic ornament to make their ceremonies a delight. \nWith their huge processional dragon (now in Golden Gate \n\n\n\n70 Handboof( for San Francisco \n\nPark Museum), their beautiful umbrella-shaped standards, their \nsaffron flags and their traveling tableaux and floats, they have \nmade the Portola parades of San Francisco a wonder that \ncould be seen nowhere else on the continent. \n\nIf you are lucky in the hour of your wandering, you may \nsee a funeral or hear a wedding \xe2\x80\x94 and the weddings are easy \nto hear, for part of the ceremony consists in paying out a cable \nof fire-crackers from the second story balcony of some res- \ntaurant, and letting the dangling end burn off about a foot \nabove the curb, with frequent discharges of bamboo-wound \nbombs. If the bridegroom is sufficiently prosperous the din \nmay last until long after midnight. \n\nFunerals take their ancient way, with the exception of a \n"young Chinese band" at the head, playing European dirges. \nFollows a cab-full of the real old Chinese music, with deaf- \nening crashes of great brass cymbals, squealing trumpets, and \nmad banging of a gong slung from the roof of the hack. Then \nthe hearse, and on the seat beside the white driver a Chinese \nthat throws to the breeze small oblong pieces of tissue paper \nwith perforations through which the pursuing demons must \ncrawl and thus be heavily handicapped. \n\nDirectly behind the hearse comes the black figure of a Taoist \npriest, performing on cymbals decorated with a fluttering ban- \nneret. He precedes the widow, who walks in white, the \nChinese mourning color, bowed double with grief, face hidden, \nand supported by two sad-faced sisters in black. They are \nhired to look sad, and they give good value for the money. \n\nNext a block of hired mourners: women in blue gowns and \npantaloons, with their heads hidden in white cowls. More \ncabs, full of relatives and friends, gongs and cymbals; and, \nfinally, an express wagon loaded with paper effigies of serv- \nants for the departed, to be burned at the cemetery, and the \nfuneral baked meats for his subsistence as he starts on his long \njourney; roast pig, crawfish, chicken and other favorite viands. \n\nAll Grant avenue turns out to see, and the balconies of \nthe side streets are thronged. The comment is apparently dis- \n\n\n\nA Walk in Chinaiorvn 71 \n\ncriminating and critical, and as a topic of discussion the epi- \nsode lasts the afternoon. \n\nAMONG THE BAZAARS. \n\nA conspicuous fact about Chinatown is that it consists, \non the street level at least, almost wholly of shops. The mer- \nchant class predominates, and it practices a rigid and unde- \nviating commercial honesty. What a Chinese merchant prom- \nises he performs. \n\nThe main axis of the quarter is old Dupont street, now \nGrant avenue. Near Market this is one of the finest Ameri- \ncan retail shopping thoroughfares in the city, but beginning at \nPine street you find yourself among Japanese stores, which \ncarry handsome and costly stocks of silks, prints, bronzes and \nporcelains; and at California you enter the group of pagoda- \nroofed buildings that house the finer Chinese bazaars and form \nthe entrance to the Chinese quarter. Here are the beautiful \nestablishments of the Sing Fat Company, the Sing Chong \nCompany, the Canton and the Shanghai bazaars, the Nanking \nFook Woh Company, the Wing Sing Loong Yokohama Com- \npany, the W. Sang Lung Company, of Chee Chong & Co., \nand Yuen Lee & Co. Millions are invested in the stocks of these \nestablishments, and they attract visitors from all over the \nworld. You will not find such collections of Chinese art wares \nin any other city, in or out of China. \n\nThe names of these bazaars are not, usually, the names of \ntheir proprietors, but expressions of poetic sentiment or invo- \ncations of fortune. In the most modest of them you may find \nthe oriental treasure bit that makes the strongest appeal to \nyou and at the smallest price. The Chinese attendants are \nuniformly courteous, and whether you buy or not you are \nwelcome to admire and enjoy the wonder-works in silver, \nbronze, enamel, lacquer, teak, rosewood, porcelain, carven ivory \nand sumptuously embroidered silks. \n\nAlong this street are some good Chinese restaurants, with \nrecessed balconies where huge globular lanterns bob in the \n\n\n\n11 \n\n\n\nHandboof( fcr San Francisco \n\n\n\nbreeze, and with "tea gardens" on the top floors, where one can \ndine upon dishes of the toothsome Chinese cuisine. Preserves \nand tea are served at modest rates; and, on a day\'s notice, \nalmost any of these places will arrange dinners at prices rang- \ning from $2 to $20 a cover, that will include such delicacies \nas birds\' nest soup, snow fungus, shark fins, "chop suey," \n\n\n\n\nTHE NEW YEAR LIIJKS. \n\n\n\n"chow yuk," squab, bamboo shoots, almond pudding; chicken, \npork and noodles served in the various oriental modes, ac- \ncompanied by plum and pear wines, and beginning, always, \nwith dessert. Chinese orchestras can be engaged to accom- \npany the feast. \n\nLive fish are imported in tanks from China for banquets \nhere. \n\nAt the north corner of Clay street is one of the deadwalls \nused as a bulletin board. Here advertisements and notices of \nall sorts, in black Chinese characters on the universal red \n\n\n\nA Walk in Chinatorvn 73 \n\nground, are posted, and here eager knots of men can be seen \ngleaning the news of the day. No people is more keen for \nnews and the little community supports four daily papers printed \nin the Cantonese dialect. \n\nButcher shops, grocery and drug stores along this medieval, \nlooking street present curious sights \xe2\x80\x94 dried roots and herbs, \njars of sea-horse skeletons, dejected ducks flattened out and \nvarnished, and hung up to tempt the epicure, gobbets of pork \nfrom which the butcher hacks a cat-meat cut for his frugal \npatron. \n\nNote, on the counters of the merchants, the abacus, the \nprimitive adding machine, old as the Pyramids and still in \nuse among these conservatives. \n\nOn the south side of Washington street, below Grant ave- \nnue, in the pretty little curly-cornered and green-tiled Oriental \nbuilding next the corner, is the Chinatown exchange of the \nPacific Telephone and Telegraph Company. The manager, \nMr. Lo Kum Shu, is a Chinese. The operators are Chinese \ngirls, and their employment here is in itself an anomaly, for \nChinese women are not supposed to work for wages. Hence \nthe screens at their backs, protecting them, ceremonially at \nleast, from observation. One can, however, peek through the \nglass door, and see that in addition to bemg clad in fetching \nOriental costumes, they are incredibly quick and skillful with \nthe plugs. \n\nThey are almost perfectly ambidextrous, working equally \nwell with either hand. In addition, the telephone offi- \ncials inform us, they are gifted with wonderfully clear and \ntenacious memories. There are over 1 200 Chinese telephone \nsubscribers in Chinatown, and these girls respond all day with \nhardly a mistake to calls that are given by the name of the \nsubscriber instead of by his number \xe2\x80\x94 a mental feat that \nwould be practically impossible to most high-schooled American \nmisses. \n\nUp Jackson street from Grant avenue are several manufac- \nturing jewelers\' shops, where the jewelers and gold-carvers \n\n\n\n74 Handboo}( for San Francisco \n\ncan be seen at work making bracelets and rings and setting jade \nornaments. On the left, as you go westward, is the entrance \nto historic Ross a//e\\j, once lined with gambling places, where \nthe lookout in the dingy vestibule could close a dozen iron- \nclad doors with a single word; now an innocent-looking place \nwhere wholesale merchants sit in dim little counting houses and \nreckon their profits on importations of Chinese ware. \n\nOccasionally at night groups of Chinese can be seen in \nthese stores, behmd screens that hide them from the shoulders \ndown. No doubt they are gambling; but neither you nor \nany other white man will get near enough to see, and swear to, \nthe layout and the money. \n\nReturning southward through Ross Alley you emerge on \nWashington street, from the opposite side of which Waverly \nPlace opens on the left and Spofford Alley on the right. There \nis a modest sort of Joss house in Spofford Alley. Waverly \nPlace, two blocks long, contains many of the buildings and \nmeeting places of the "tongs" or Chinese mutual benevolent \nassociations. \n\nA JOSS HOUSE. \n\nAt 125 Waverly Place is the building of the Sue Hing \nBenevolent Association, its upper story a Joss house and one \nof the finest in the quarter. This word "Joss," by the way, is \nthe Chinese corruption of the Portuguese "Deos, \' meaning \nGod, which the Chinese first heard at the Portuguese trading \nport of Macao; so that a "Joss house" is, literally, a House \nof God. The Chinese worship individually, never in con- \ngregations. \n\nThis Joss house is the Temple of the Queen of Heaven^ \nsumptuous with gilded carvings and enameled urns, vivid with \nthe colors of paper-flower work, and of banners and standards \nborne in processions and public fetes. \n\nIt opens at the east end, with the altar facing west, as all \nproper Joss houses do. A small purchase of incense or punk \nsticks or a chunk of sandalwood acts as an admittance fee. \nWithin the ornate shrine sits the lady herself, the god of War \n\n\n\nA Walk in Chinatown 75 \n\non her right and of Wealth on her left. There is another shrine \non the left that is devoted to feminine worship, but the main \none is for the men. Standing in rails to north and south \nare the silver standards of the gods in battle. The vv^alls bear \ntall inscriptions from sacred writings, on gilded backgrounds, \ndonated by wealthy communicants, and corresponding roughly \nto our memorial windows. The drum and gong at the north \nside open and conclude the devotions. \n\nOn the table before the main shrine is a cylindrical bamboo \nbox full of splints, with what we should call "fortunes" \nwritten on them. By shaking the box properly, the supplicant \ncan make one splint emerge, and thus obtain oracular pro- \nnouncement on his affairs. If necessary he can even shake \nout a medical prescription. \n\nNear at hand is a pair of blocks made from bamboo root, \nshaped like halves of a crookqd cucumber and red on the \nrounded sides. These are used for divination, and in function \nare said to be identical with the Urim and Thummim of the \nancient Hebrews. After kneeling with his back to the Lady, \nthe searcher after celestial life raises them three times above \nhis head, kow-towing to the east, and then throws them on \nthe floor, when, if they fall different sides up, he is sure his \nprayer will be answered or his venture succeed ; if they fall \nred sides up, he may chance the doubtful enterprise; but if \nthey fall flat sides up, the signal is set against him, and he re- \npeats his orisons, throwing the blocks again and again, until \nthey fall to suit him \xe2\x80\x94 believing, as we all are prone to do, \nin the omens that he makes himself. Running almost across \nthe room is a large table with cast tin urns on it. This is \na sort of altar, of which more when we reach the next Joss house. \n\nFollow Waverly Place through to Clay street and turn \nup-hill to Stockton. The Chinese Consulate General is at the \nsoutheast corner of Clay and Stockton. To the right, at 915, \nis the shop of Num Sing, the lantern maker, whose great bub- \nbles of tinted light grace the balconies of homes and restaurants. \nSouth of Clay street, at 843 Stockton, in the building with \n\n\n\n76 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nthe blue enameled vestibule, is the conclave hall of the Six \nCompanies, Chung Wah Woey Kwoon, the Chinese Consoli- \ndated Benevolent Association. This is the most influential \norganization in the Chinese community, the power that dis- \npenses the higher and the lower justice, sitting as a court of \narbitration in trade disputes and doing equity among the Fami- \nlies and the Tongs. Visitors may enter if the door is open. \nThe place is handsomely appointed, with colored glass screens \nand gilded grills, carved teak chairs with marblestone backs, \na long council table and a row of seven seats where sit the \npresidents of the Six Companies, with a place of honor for \nthe Consul General. \n\nFrom the meeting place of the Six Companies, continue \nsouthward to Sacramento street. Up the hill, at 920 Sacra- \nmento, is an institution known all over the United States for \nthe invaluable work it has done in behalf of unfortunate Chi- \nnese girls and women: the Woman\'s Occidental Board of For- \neign Missions. In April, 1913, it celebrated the fortieth \nanniversary of its founding. Many a romance has been writ- \nten and many another will be about the helping hand and pro- \ntecting care given otherwise helpless human chattels by its \nheroic superintendent. Miss D. M. Cameron. \n\nThe mission house contains dormitories, kitchens, dining \nrooms, a fine assembly hall, and two school rooms for a pri- \nmary school and seminary, where Chinese girls are educated. \nIt has been a home for hundreds of unfortunates that had no \nother, and here they have received not merely *\'book learning" \nbut practical domestic training until they have become fitted \nfor marriage and the duties of their own households. \n\nOf late the mission has become so rooted in the life of \nChinatown and has gained such a degree of confidence among \nthe Oriental population that Chinese merchants are beginning \nto send their daughters to it for tuition, especially when the \ngirls are motherless. \n\nAs you pass down Grant avenue on the north side it will \nbe interesting to turn north a few steps on Waverly Place \n\n\n\nA Walk in Chinatown 77 \n\nIc No. 1 8, the composing room of the Chinese Free Press. \n\nHere you can look through the windows and see Chinese \ncompositors setting up a Chinese newspaper. Instead of \ntwenty-six letters and some punctuation, the Chinese type font \nmust contain over four thousand ideographic characters, each \nrepresenting a complete word. As a result, the cases are \nhuge affairs, taller than a man and twelve or fourteen feet \nlong, and among them the compositors weave about in a solemn \nand soft-footed sort of lancers or quadrille, picking out a char- \nacter here, and another in the next case, and another across \nthe room. With such a system of literation, type-writers are \nimpossible and a linotype keyboard would look like an acre \nof lettuce. \n\nWhite visitors are not encouraged to enter the composing \nrooms of any of the Chinese dailies, the type being too val- \nuable and the Christian souvenir hunter\'s morality too frail. \n\nLeaving Waverly Place, follow Sacramento street down to \nGrant avenue, and cut across St. Mary\'s Square, southeasterly, \nto Pine street. At Pine is the imposing entrance to the prop- \nerty of the Kong Chow Friendly Society and the Temple of \nQuan Dai, a larger Joss house than the Temple of the Queen \nof Heaven, and in some particulars more interesting. These \ntwo are the leading Joss houses in San Francisco, and owing \nto changing faiths and ideas, no more are likely to be built. \n\nAt the entrance you pass around a screen formed by two \nswing doors, with pictures of ancient warriors: men-at-arms \nof the god, and guardians of his temple. The screen is found \nsimilarly placed in all orthodox buildings in China, even in \ndwellings. It does not form much of an obstruction to men, \nwho can walk as crookedly as necessary, but is baffling to \ndevils, whose well-known habit it is to make a rush in a straight \nline whenever the door is opened, and who bump their heads \non the screen and retire in dismay. \n\nOn the walls of the high-ceiled entrance hall are vermilion \nslips of paper, bearing the names of members of the congre- \ngation and the sums they have subscribed to the upkeep of \n\n\n\n78 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nIN THE TEMPLE OF QUAN DAI. \n\nthe place; the largest subscriptions at the top. A door opens \ninto a handsome court with a fountain at the east side, just \nunder a huge red disk like the face of the sun painted on the \nwall. \n\nThe stairs leading to the Joss house on the top floor start \nfrom the left-hand door; the main entrance, and the door at \nthe right, open into chapels devoted to a simpler sort of an- \ncestor worship. A considerable area of valuable real estate \nhas been devoted to courtyard space in order to orient the \nbuilding. \n\nA CHINESE DEITY. \nQuan Dai was a great warrior of some two thousand years \nago, raised to high station by his emperor and deified after \ndeath for his nobility of character and many virtues. He is \nthe tutelary deity of the Kong Chow association, and here his \neffigy is enshrined in a jungle of gilded carvings, hung with \ngreen embroidered curtains and bedecked with peacock feathers \nfor luck. He is supported by two smaller figures, and before \n\n\n\nA Walk in Chinatown 79 \n\n\n\nhim are three lesser deities personifying the natural elements. \nThe shrine carvings represent Chinese myths and highly ethical \nteachings; and the delicate handiwork, executed in China, \nwell repays close scrutiny, for in depth and intricacy, and vigor \ncf treatment, it equals some of the best Swiss output. \n\nThe offering of tea, on the litde inlaid teak table before \nthe god, is replaced afresh every morning by the temple keeper, \nwhen he lights the taper in peanut oil on the altar and sets \nthe punk sticks smouldering in the big bronze urn. Always \nthree punk sticks are offered at a time, representing the Chi- \nnese trinity of Earth, Heaven and Man. These things are \nnot done in adoration of the god himself so much as in exaltation \nof the virtues he exemplifies. \n\nTo the right of the shrine as you face it, is Quan Dai\'s faith- \nful warhorse, about six hands high and of extraordinary \n"points." On the left is represented his battle lance. Beside \nit is the drum and bell with which the worshipper announces \nhimself, and which, his devotions over, he strikes to indicate \nthat it is finished, and to bid the god goodby. \n\nBefore the shrine, a richly-wrought lantern hangs, with a \nlight that burns unceasingly, teaching that devotion must not \nbe an intermittent "Sunday piety," but a consistent and con- \ntinuous state of mind. \n\nThe standards of the god and his followers are reproduced \nhere in wood, and with them are the bamboo helmets of an- \ncient times. Golden scrolls adorn the side walls, given by \nmembers of the society and bearing eulogies of the god. Over- \nhead hang other writings on handsome teak and ebony boards. \nSome testify to the rectitude of the temple management and \nothers express the most exalted philosophical concepts. In \nreading the Chinese characters, always begin at the right. \n\nBack of the altar is a space for the religious exercises of \nthe communicant. Here he prays, and here he casts the divin- \ning blocks for answer to his prayers. Here also are the oracle \nsticks in their bamboo box. Behind this space is the Heung \nOn Toi, or table of the Heung On; five tall vase-like objects \n\n\n\n80 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nof cast tin decorated with small enameled pictures. The outer \ntwo are for compositions of paper flowers, extraordinary in \ntheir color and perfection of detail. The inner two are for \ncandles, as on the altar of a Christian church. The central \none is for incense. \n\nThe outer half of the table carries bronze vases for in- \ncense and punk. At present one of them holds a tall stick of \nsandal wood, thick as a man\'s wrist, with the name of the \ndonor pasted on it, and from this sweet-smelling bough a chip \nis whittled to be burned as occasion requires. \n\nOn a carved teak stand is a contorted root of sandal wood, \ngiving out the faint perfume the Chinese love. \n\nMore gilded carvings line the front of this table, under glass \nand wire screen, for these are very costly. In the upper \ncorners are some fine representations of submarine scenes \xe2\x80\x94 \ncrustaceans and fish, amid weird sea plants. The lower tier \nof carvings is a fairy-land of Chinese myth. \n\nThere are two small shrines in the eastern corners, shelter- \ning smaller gods of fortune and guardians of the east portal, \nwho also seem to act as agents for the collection of celestial \ndues, one of them receiving the offerings and the other handing \nthem up. \n\nThe furnace for the burnt offerings of this temple is in the \nsmall chamber to the north, opening from the east end. Here \ngold and silver paper are burned by the devotee in the expecta- \ntion that the god will transmute them into the real thing and \nreturn them an hundred fold. \n\nOn the birthday of the god, sacrifices of pork, chicken and \nfish are brought to his shrine and then taken home and eaten. \nSome bring them at the beginning of the year, seeking favors; \nand some at the year\'s end, in gratitude for the blessings they \nhave received. \n\nFESTIVALS. \n\nThe beginning of the A^en; Year is the great Chinese festival. \nIt is everybody\'s birthday. Mercantile accounts are squared. \n\n\n\nA Walk in Chinatown 81 \n\nand the papers canceled in the temple furnaces. For six weeks \nbefore, the lily bulbs, set in stones and water, have been \nnursed in sun and shade to bring the lucky blooms at just the \nproper date. Beginning in the afternoon, fire-crackers scold the \nold year out and hail the new year in. The cymbals and the \ntom-toms resound. In stores and households, the odors of \nsacrifice are offered to the gods and the substance is feasted \non by men. There is universal congratulation, offered at \ntea parties and social calls, with much munching of cakes \nand melon seeds and sweetmeats. The children are dressed \nin their best. At no other time does the quarter exhibit such \nsmiling amiability and general good-will. Everybody feels \nso good the drug stores close their doors, for no one could \nneed drugs at such a time, and besides, it is a bad way to begin \nthe year; and if any one does need them the medicaments are \nhanded out surreptitiously, wrapped in joyous red paper in- \nstead of the usual white, to conciliate the spirit of the occa- \nsion. \n\nThe festivities last a week, ending with "Man\'s Day" \nwhen all conventional restraints are off and every one enjoys \nhimself as he likes. \n\nThis is a good time to visit Chinatown. From the best \ninformation obtainable at present, the date, which used to \nfall in February under the Empire, will be made to coincide \nwith ours, though how they will make their lilies bloom then, \nis a question for some Chinese Burbank. \n\nThe festival of the Seven Sisters occurs about the middle of \nAugust. You may see a rough lumber balcony erected across \nthe south end of Ross Alley, with the little figures and scenes \ndisplayed on it. Formerly it was the occasion of rivalry \namong the girls of different families to see which could pro- \nduce the most beautiful miniature dragon, and one year the \nprize was won by a large and vigorous cockroach trigged out \nwith melon seeds. \n\nA little later, on the fifteenth of the eighth month, occurs the \nMoon F^aU, when mooji-?haped cakes are baked in quantity. \n\n\n\n82 \n\n\n\nHandboof^ for San Francisco \n\n\n\nJoss papers are scattered abroad, and the moon is worshipped \nwith the most beautiful creations of the lantern makers swung \nfrom windows and balconies. \n\nToward the end of the year occurs the Seew Yee, or sac- \nrifice of clothing; but it is only burned in paper effigy, includ- \ning representations cf the chests in which it is kept, and with \n\n\n\n\nYOUNG CHINA. \n\n\n\nthe canny purpose of getting back fresh apparel from the gods. \nThe burning is likely to occur in Spofford or Ross Alley, \nunless, with their altered political mstitutions, our Oriental \nneighbors think it necessary to change their ancient rites in this \nrespect. \n\nThe guides take tourists to a few show places we have not \nattempted to describe, like the home of the Singing Children, \nwhere four little tykes sing such Oriental arias as "Jungle \nTown" and "I\'d Leave My Happy Home for You." We \nhave heard them better rendered. Then there is the old Chine$e \n\n\n\nA Walk Along the Water Front 83 \n\nmusician who lives in a cellar, and plays the Chinese zither, \nflute, mandolin, snake-skin banjo and two-stringed fiddle; exe- \ncuting \'\'Marching Through Georgia" and other classics. \n\nBut one can not satisfy his interest in one visit to any two \nor twenty definite points. It is the community life that must \nbe sensed, the hundred variations of practice, habit and custom, \nmanners and art, to make the thing really enjoyable. \n\n\n\nWALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. \n///. \xe2\x80\x94 The Water Front and Telegraph Hill. \n\nTo those who delight in scenes that wake the imagination, \na morning\'s tramp along the water front, with a good, breath- \ning finish up Telegraph Hill, will be a source of keen delight. \nTop it with a luncheon at a Latin Quarter restaurant and \nyou will begin to get the flavor of San Francisco. \n\nTake the Third street cars anywhere along Kearny or \nThird street, or by transfer from any Market street car, and \nget off at Berry, two blocks below the Southern Pacific depot. \nAs you ride down this street, remember that every brick and \ngirder of every building (except at the corner of Mission where \none steel structure survived) is new construction since the great \nfire. Steel frame and brick structures were left standing, \nbut "improvements" on Third street and neighboring thorough- \nfares built, of old, in wood, were mowed down to their gaping \ncellars. \n\nLeaving the car where it turns southwestward into Berry \nstreet, walk down to the big bascule bridge with the Santa Fe \nsign on it, across the "Channel." The Channel is an ancient \nslough, once connected with Mission creek, now given over \nmainly to the receipt of lumber. \n\nGo back to Townsend street and follow it northeasterly to \nthe Embarcadero. On the way, at the corner of Townsend \nand Second streets, is a handsome concrete building with four \n\n\n\n84 Handbook for San Francisco \n\ntall stacks that typifies the enterprise, energy and efficiency of \nthe new San Francisco. This is Pumping Station No. I of the \nAuxiliary High Pressure Fire Protection System. \n\nThe entrance is around the corner, on Second street, and \nthe public is admitted to the little gallery overlooking the \ngigantic water tube boilers and the turbine pumps and engines. \nThe other salt water pumping station is across the city at \nBlack Point. \n\nSecond street will take you southeast to the Mail DocJ^s. \nHere you will catch a glimpse of the great business that is \ndone upon the waters by some of the few remaining Ameri- \ncan ships in the foreign trade; see the silks, tea, mattings \nand rice and tin from the Orient coming ashore in big slings \nand being put aboard trains, and the cotton, hardware and other \nhome commodities going back to pay for it. \n\nFrom this point to Quarantine, by way of the Embarcadero, \nit is a good three miles along "the front," and every step is \nfull of interest. Here you will note the ebb and flow of that \nabundant traffic with far lands and strange places which has \ngiven San Francisco much of its romance and its charm, and \nhas made the modern city possible. \n\nThe Water front is rough, alcoholic and unpretty, but it \nswarms with men of brawn and nerve, rovers with the scope \nand vision of the broad Pacific in their brains, from cocoanut \nislands in southern waters to the treaty ports of China, and the \nArctic ice where they hunt the few remaining whales. The \nwhole run of it reeks with briny adventure. It furnished Stev- \nenson with the atmosphere of the "Wrecker," Frank Norris \nwith the theme of "Moran of the Lady Letty," Jack London \nwith his seal poacher, the "Sea Wolf," and Gelett Burgess and \nWallace Irwin with the plots and counter-plots of the "Pica- \nroon." \n\nSan Francisco is particularly fortunate in the fact that its \ndocks are not privately owned, but are administered by the \nState. Nearly seven million tons of freight a year are handled \nover the wharves at San Francisco. \n\n\n\nA Walk Along the Water Front 85 \n\nThough steam has almost supplanted the sail on the cargo \ncarriers of the world, the bowsprit of many an old "wind- \njammer" is poked across the seawall at San Francisco, and \nable seamen can still be found here that know what it is to \nlay aloft and shorten sail in a Cape Horn gale. \n\nOn a bluff to your left, which is old Rincon Point, is an \nold, square, brick building with porches overlooking the activi- \nties of the harbor. It is the Sailors\' Home, the old U. S. \nMarine Hospital, built by the Federal Government in 1853, \nduring the administration of President Franklin Pierce. \n\nSOMETIMES A WHALER. \n\nFarther on, at the foot of Howard street, one can sometimes \nfind, in early spring, an old whaler, recognizable by its tapering \nspars, its crow\'s nest aloft, and its rows of timber davits \nfrom which hang the slim whale-boats. A little later in the \nyear they will all be gone. \n\nAfter the coal bunkers, and colliers discharging, one comes \nto the Ferry Post Office, and then the Ferri; building, which \ndeserves more than passing mention. \n\nThis building is San Francisco\'s water gate and union depot \nas well, and is one of the great gateways of world travel. At \nits eight slips, there are 1 70 arrivals and departures of ferry \nboats every twenty-four hours, bearing over 1 06,000 people \ninto and out of the city. \n\nThe Ferry building itself is an imposing structure, and the \nnave on the second story is 48 feet wide and 650 feet long. \nHere President McKinley was welcomed, midwinter flower \nshows have been held, conventions have been received and the \ndelegates registered, and California\'s soldier boys returning \nfrom the Philippines were banqueted. In the floor is a mosaic \nrepresenting the Great Seal of California, and on the wall \nnearby hangs an account of its origin and a statement of its \nallegorical meaning. The California Development Board has \nits headquarters here. The Ferry building also houses the \nCalifornia State Mining Bureau, with its offices, its library, \n\n\n\n86 \n\n\n\nHandbooJi; for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nALONG "THE FRONT." \n\n\n\nWeidner, photo. \n\n\n\nand its immense collection of mineral specimens. Both these in- \nstitutions will be described later. \n\nYou have been passing Telegraph Hill on your left, and \nnow come to the Quarantine station, the barge office of the \nCustom House, and the marine reporting station of the Cham- \nber of Commerce, which furnishes a marine news service that is \none of the most complete and effective in any port in the world. \n\nDirectly beyond the marine reporting station is Fishermen s \nWharf, always a busy scene, with swarms of Greek and \nItalian fishermen working at their nets and gear, or landing \ntheir catches. See index. \n\nNo one should leave San Francisco without visiting this \nlocality which reproduces in detail the life aspect of a south \nItalian fishing port. \n\nIn your three-mile tramp around the "front"\' you have been \ngetting sectional views of the panorama of the bay and the \n\n\n\nA Walk Along the Water Front 87 \n\nopposite shores, beautiful sea-vistas that make you hungry for \na vision of the whole. Climb Telegraph Hill and you will \nget it. Retrace your steps to the foot of Powell street, turn \nsouth to Greenwich, just south of the children\'s playground, \nand then turn east on Greenwich, which will lead you by rough \nways, through a thickly settled tenement district, past quaint \nGood Children street, to Pioneer Park at the top. \n\nA SUPERB SCENE. \n\nFrom this point, 300 feet above the water, the marine re- \nporting of early days was done by semaphore; when there \nwas no overland railroad, when ships were few and far be- \ntween, and every arrival meant the possibility of messages from \nloved ones in "the states," or the coming of wife and chil- \ndren to share the fortune of the mines and make a home in \nCalifornia. \n\nThe counterpart of Telegraph Hill exists in no other large \ncity in the United States. No one can begin to know San \nFrancisco until he has climbed it. \n\nFrom the top you can see the imperial city of San Fran- \ncisco in its most interesting aspect. You can see the docks \nand the shipping, brought into one view. You can see the \ngrandest harbor of the grandest ocean. You can see the bold \nsweep of the opposite shore, set with smaller cities \xe2\x80\x94 Alameda, \nOakland, Berkeley, Pullman, Richmond \xe2\x80\x94 with the hills that \nseem forever marching at their backs, and Yerba Buena island \nin the foreground. You can look straight north into the \nmouth of San Pablo bay, through which run the waters of \nCalifornia\'s mighty rivers, with the red farallone standing like \na sentinel at its approach. \n\nTo the left. Angel island merges with the Marin hills, \nbehind which rises Tamalpais. \n\nThe whole expanse of blue water is troubled with puffy \nlittle tugs, barges, great steamers entering or leaving, ferry \nboats weaving like shuttles across it. And westward is the \nGolden Gate, winding toward you like the Bosphorus, with \n\n\n\n88 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nAlcatraz island set like a gem, at its inner end. Perhaps \nthere will be a full-rigged ship from England or from China \nmajestically moving through the wide channel, making a picture \nyou will not soon forget. \n\nDescend by way of Greenwich street to Kearny, and then \nturn south on the latter street. The neighborhood is thickly \ntenanted and there is no race suicide apparent. Children are \neverywhere, children whose mothers speak to them from the \ndoor-steps in soft Italian or Spanish, and who reply in crisp \nand startling English. For you are entering the Latin Quar- \nier^ going down by steep, cleated sidewalks that remind one \nof Genoa. The Italian pervades it, though Greek, Sicilian, \nMexican and Spaniard are also in evidence \xe2\x80\x94 people that love \nthe sun and find in San Francisco a congenial clime. \n\nThe whole quarter is reminiscent of south Europe, and yet is \ndistinctively San Franciscan, for San Francisco is a city of all \nnations; of and for all races of men. \n\n\n\nWALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. \n\nIV. \xe2\x80\x94 Produce Commission District, Noh Hill and \nRussian Hill. \n\nDirectly west of the wharves north of the Ferry building, \nwhere the river boats land, are four city squares and parts \nof two more, in which about 80 commission merchants handle \nmillions of dollars worth of California produce a year. The \nterritory extends westerly from Drumm to Front streets, and \nnorthwardly from Clay to Jackson, running up Washington \nalmost a block, to Battery. \n\nThis section of the city is worth seeing for the variety of \nthe fruits and produce displayed, and the tumultuous activity \nof its business. \n\nThe dairy produce merchants transact their business on the \nedges of the fruit commission district. \n\nFacing Battery street and extending from Washington to \n\n\n\nA Walk on Nob Hill 89 \n\nJackson is the United States Custom House, an impressive \nand beautiful structure, erected since the fire at a cost of a \nmillion and a half. It is built of granite and handsomely fin- \nished inside in marble and bronze. Here ships are docu- \nmented and registered, and customs and internal revenue dues \ncollected. \n\nOn the western half of the same block with the Custom \nHouse stands the brick pile known as the Appraisers\' Building. \nIt survived the fire, practically in its present condition. For- \nmerly it housed many of the government offices now in the \nCustom House, but has since been given over to laboratories, \nstore rooms and record rooms. \n\nFrom the Appraisers building or the Custom House, go \nsouth to California street, then westward through the financial \ndistrict, up through the south end of Chinatown, and ascend \nto the Fairmont Hotel. This neighborhood is \n\nNob Hill \xe2\x80\x94 celebrated in the history of the city and well- \nknown wherever people are familiar with the achievements \nof the great figures of "Bonanza days" and the era of early \nrailroad construction. Here a group of the Comstock mil- \nlionaires and railroad builders erected their mansions \xe2\x80\x94 Mark \nHopkins, Leland Stanford, James C. Flood, D. D. Colton, \nCharles Crocker and W. H. Crocker, his son, and many more. \nSome were gorgeous palaces, embellished in teak, ebony, ivory, \ninlaid pearl-shell and bronze, with mural tapestries and paintings \nby celebrated European artists. They were all swept away by \nthe mounting flames except the mansion of James C. Flood, a \n"brown-stone front," that stands across the street from the \nFairmont Hotel. The Flood home, remodeled and some- \nwhat enlarged, is now the beautiful Pacific Union club. \n\nAt the southwest corner of California and Powell streets, \nwhere the Leland Stanford residence once stood, is now being \nerected the largest apartment house on the Pacific Coast, a \ngigantic structure that will cost over a million. A block away \nthe San Francisco Institute of Art occupies the site of the \n\n\n\n90 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nMark Hopkins mansion, at the southeast comer of Cahfornia \nand Powell streets. \n\nIn the block between Taylor and Jones streets, beyond the \nPacific Union Club, is the divinity school connected with \nGrace Pro-Cathedral, of the Episcopal diocese. It is part of \nwhat will be the most important establishment of the Episcopal \nchurch in the West. Grace Cathedral will rise at the corner of \nJones street. It will be in the beautiful English Gothic style, \nwith a central tower rising 230 feet, or higher than any other \nstructure on Nob Hill. At present the crypt is being used tem- \nporarily as a place of worship. \n\nThis block of land was formerly occupied by the homes \nof Charles Crocker and W. H. Crocker, and was a gift from \nthe heirs of Charles Crocker to the Episcopal church. \n\nEvery hill-top in San Francisco shifts the scenes and sets \nthe stage anew. Fine as the view is from the vicinity of Cali- \nfornia and Mason streets, it is even better from the top of \n\nRussian Hill. Take Taylor street northward to Vallejo. \nA few stone steps here will put you on the zig-zag trail to the \ntop. \n\nRussian Hill is part of a ridge with two distinct crests, one \nat Vallejo between Taylor and Jones, and the other at Green- \nwich and Hyde streets. Here also was the abode of an \naristocracy, but an earlier one than that which built up Nob \nHill. \n\nBeyond the industrial foreground of North Beach, smoking \nwith the energy of its factories, the view is one of splendor. \nThe long moles running out from the opposite shore ; the \ncities behind them; Yerba Buena island. Point Richmond \nwith its oil tanks and its growing industries, the straits con- \nnecting with San Pablo bay, and then Alcatraz island. Angel \nisland behind it, Richardson\'s bay with Tamalpais for its back- \nground \xe2\x80\x94 all these would be beautiful enough for a most ex- \ntraordinary picture. But turning to the left one sees the Golden \nGate in one of its most graceful aspects, like a broad, wind- \ning stream, with Fort Point thrusting into it from the southern \n\n\n\nBy Trolley and Cable \n\n\n\n91 \n\n\n\nshore, and just in front the grounds of the Exposition, while \nacross the Gate rise the bold hills of Marin county. \n\nIf this ramble has led you far enough, take the cable car on \nHyde street, south bound, which will deliver you at the cor- \nner of Market and O\'Farrell streets, on the edge of the shop- \nping district ; or you can transfer from it to the California street \n\n\n\n\nALCATRAZ ISLAXD VUOM RUSSIAN HILL. \n\ncable line, east bound, and be carried over the crest of Nob \nhill and down to the financial center at California and Mont- \ngomery streets. \n\n\n\nHOW TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO BY TROLLEY \n\nAND CABLE. \n\nSTREET RAILWAYS. \n\nThree companies operate street car lines in this city; the \n\nUnited Railroads of San Francisco, the Presidio & Ferries, \n\nand the California Street Cable Railway, which operates also \n\nthe Hyde and O\'Farrell street line. In addition to these pri- \n\n\n\n92 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nvate corporations the city operates the Cear^ Street Municipal \nRailroad, from the Ferry to the Ocean Beach, with an exten- \nsion over Tenth avenue to Golden Gate Park. \n\nTransfer points are too numerous to mention, there being \na generous interchange between the different companies where \nthey do not parallel one another\'s lines, and, on any given sys- \ntem, between different routes in the same general direction. \nThis enables one to get about the city at will for a single \nfare, generally speaking. \n\nMost lines of the United Railroads carry a number on a \nsquare lantern on the roof. No lines other than the lines of \nthis company are numbered at this date. \n\nOn the Geary street line, cars marked A run from the Fer- \nries to the Park, those marked B, to the Beach. \n\nThe California Street Cable railroad runs from the junc- \ntion of Market and California streets, near the Ferry, out \nCalifornia street to Presidio avenue, where it transfers to lines \nof the United Railroads for the Richmond district. Golden \nGate Park or the Cliff. It transfers also to the Hyde & \nO\'Farrell street cars at Hyde. \n\nThe Hyde and O\'Farrell street line runs from the junction \nof Market and O\'Farrell streets, out O\'Farrell to Jones, on \nJones north to Pine, on Pine to Hyde, and north on Hyde to \nBeach. An extension from Market and Jones meets the \nO\'Farrell street line at Jones and O\'Farrell streets. \n\nAll Hyde street cars transfer at Hyde and Union streets \nto the Presidio & Ferries line, which runs from the Ferry to the \nPresidio by way of Washington street, Columbus avenue. \nUnion, Larkin, Vallejo, Franklin and Union streets. \n\nGenerally cars stop at near crossings. Exceptions are indi- \ncated by stop signs on the trolley wire. \n\nExcept on leaving Market street, they stop before curves, and \nthis is the rule for entering Market. \n\nAs a rule, if you need a transfer ask for it on entering the \ncar. On the California street line, transfers are issued on \napproaching the transfer corner. \n\n\n\nBy Trolley and Cable 93 \n\n\n\nMost of the trolley cars operated in San Francisco are of \nthe pay-as-you-enter type, and it will facilitate locomotion \nif you will have your nickel ready. \n\nTROLLEY TRIP NO. 1. \n\nI. Nob Hill, the Colden Gate, Land\'s End, Sutro Heights, \nSutro Baths, Cliff House and Seal Rocks. \n\nTake California street cable car going vpest, and transfer at \nPresidio avenue to trolley line No. I, marked \'\'Cliff,\'\' con- \ntinuing Tvest on California street. Return by the same line, but \nomit the transfer coming back- \n\nThe route will take you through the edge of ChinatoTvn, \nover the top of Nob Hill, where the Comstock and railroad \nmillionaires built their mansions, out to old Lone Mountain \nCemetery, where many of them built their mausoleums, through \nthe Richmond district, along the bluffs overlooking the Golden \nGate and to a point within easy walking distance of the Cliff \nHouse and the Sutro Gardens, Museum and Baths. \n\nAt the corner of Grant avenue, the line passes **Old St. \nMary\'s," once the cathedral, built early in the "fifties." On \nthe two west corners of California street and Grant avenue \nstand Chinese bazaars, with pagoda-like pavilions on their \nroofs, forming an Oriental entrance to the Chinese quarter, \nwhich one can see looking northward up Grant avenue. \n\nMounting the east slope of Nob Hill, you soon raise Tele- \ngraph Hill, to the northeast, and catch a glimpse of Verba \nBuena Island to eastward. The handsome brick structure at \nthe east corner of Powell street is the University Club. Across \nPowell street is the Fairmont Hotel, and on the southwest cor- \nner of California and Powell streets, opposite the Fairmont, \nis Stanford Court, the largest apartment building on the Pacific \nCoast. It is rising on the site of the residence of Governor \nStanford, one of the "Big Four" that built the first overland \nrailroad, who left the bulk of his large estate to found Leland \nStanford Junior University. \n\n\n\n94 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\nNorthward up Powell street, the tip of Angel Island ap- \npears. Southward is a view over the city and the south bay. \n\nThe brownstone building beyond the Fairmont and on the \nsame side of the street is the home of the Pacific Union Club, \nand was formerly the residence of James C. Flood, partner of \nW. S. O\'Brien in the amassing of much wealth from the \nComstock mines. \n\nAt the southeast corner of California and Mason streets is \nthe San Francisco Institute of Art, on the site of the residence \nof Mark Hopkins, another of the railroad "Big Four." \n\nThe white building on the west side of Taylor street, north \nof California, the right-hand side going out, is the Divinit\'^ \nSchool connected with Grace Pro-Cathedral, and part of what \nis to be the most important ecclesiastical establishment of the \nEpiscopal church in the West. \n\nThe cathedral itself will rise at the corner of Jones and \nCalifornia. At present services are held in the crypt. \n\nAt Van Ness avenue, the red sandstone building a block \nnorth is the family residence of the late Claus Spreckels, the \nsugar king. \n\nAt the next northeast corner is the Christian Science Church, \nhandsome in composition, and bright in color, with walls of \nvarigated brick. \n\nAt Webster street is the synagogue of the Congregation \nSherith Israel, a dignified structure, part of which served as a \nhall of justice after the fire. To the north of the synagogue, \non Webster at the corner of Sacramento, are Cooper Medical \nCollege and Lane Hospital, now the medical department of \nStanford University. \n\nAt Presidio avenue transfer to Sutter street Line No. I, \nmarl^ed "Cliff."\' \n\nThe cemetery on the south side of the street at this point \nis Laurel Hill, known to the older San Franciscans as \'\'Lone \nMountain Cemetery,\'\' about which you can find more by con- \nsulting the index. \n\n\n\nB}) Trolley and Cable 95 \n\nThe low wooded hills that appear to the north are part of \nthe Presidio, founded by the Spaniards as a military post. \nThe Presidio is the largest military reservation in the country \nwithin city limits, and covers 1 ,542 acres. The north shore \nruns out in a long, narrow tongue of land known as Fort Point, \nwith Fort W infield Scott at its tip. The reservation is con- \nnected with Golden Gate Parif by a parked strip which the \ncar crosses at Thirteenth and Fourteenth avenues. \n\nNorth of the Presidio, the Marin county hills and the sum- \nmit of Mt. Tamalpais begin to tower. Soon the car rounds \na bend to the east of the old city cemetery, and the whole \nGolden Gate swings into the landscape, a superb marine view \nin a frame of bold hills. \n\nThis is close acquaintance with the famous strait, which \nappears here in its loveliest aspect. Bauer\'s Beach stretches \nback toward Fort Scott. Beyond is Angel Island, on which \nare located Fort McDowell, the United State Immigration \nStation, and the Discharge Camp of the Arm"^, where dis- \ncharged soldiers, returning from the Philippines, are temporarily \nquartered. North of Angel Island one looks through Raccoon \nStraits, a short cut for vessels entering the harbor and bound \n"up river direct." \n\nThe channel is full of life and movement \xe2\x80\x94 the life and \nmovement of vast volumes of water, and of vessels of all sorts \nand sizes, from the gasoline launch or lateen rigged smack of \nthe herring fleet, to the great liners plying between San Fran- \ncisco and Hong Kong or Yokohama, and "wind jammers" \noutward bound for Liverpool or Antwerp. \n\nBeyond the Forty-eighth avenue terminus of the car line. \nPoint Lobos avenue winds around a large bluff to connect with \nthe Great Highway along the beach. On the left, as you \nbegin to descend, is the entrance to Sutro Heights. This beau- \ntiful place, with its palm avenues, its rare trees and brilliant \nflowers, its reproductions of classic sculpture ornamenting shaded \nretreats, its esplanades and balconies 200 feet above the sea, \nwith their grand views of ocean and beach and mountain chain. \n\n\n\n96 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nkMM. \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n^ \n\n\n\n\nfe \n\n\n^\xe2\x96\xa0ifri \n\n\nMttM^ \n\n\n\n\n^^ \n\n\n^\' " \n\n\nP^^r\'^^Sr^^^^filH^ \n\n\n\n\n- ^mJm^ \n\n\n\n\n1 ^\'JS^^^^BKmSmB^B^KL \n\n\n\n\n1 \n\n\n\n\nw^^\' \xe2\x80\xa2\xe2\x80\xa2\xe2\x96\xa0.\xe2\x80\xa2\xe2\x80\xa2I, \n\n\n\'^^ ,3M \'*\' \n\n\n-fej^ \n\n\n\n\n" \'^^\'"\'^^^^^^ms^^ T \n\n\n\n\n\nIN SUTRO GARDEiNS. \n\n\n\nis the private garden surrounding the home of the late Adolph \nSutro, former Mayor of San Francisco; the man that drove \nthe famous tunnel into the Comstock lode, unwatering the \nmines and reopening their treasure houses. It is and has been, \never since its creation out of the barren hills, open to the public, \nthrough the munificence of Mr. Sutro during his life and the \ncontinuance of the same generous policy by the members of \nhis family. \n\nTo westward of the residence will be found a broad terrace \nsurrounded by the Parapet, on which stand life-size mytholog- \nical figures, some of them copied from the most famous statues \nin Europe. The view over the sea, and up and down the \ncoast is nothing less than wondrous in its beauty. \n\nLeave the Parapet and descend by the rock stairway to the \nright. This will take you to the Balcony and boardwalk. For \nthree miles you can look down a straight, uninterrupted line of \npounding breakers and sheets of swimming foam, making one \nof the most sublime and inspiring scenes to be found. \n\n\n\nB^ Trolley and Cable 97 \n\nThe entrance to the garden is the only pubHc exit. Farther \ndown Point Lobos avenue, on the right, are the Sulro Baths \nand Museum. Here is a vast structure covering nearly three \nacres of ground and containing the largest indoor swimming \ntanks ever built. \n\nThe area devoted to bathing purposes is 153 by 285 feet. \nThe northeasterly part is divided into five tanks, of which \nfour are 28 feet wide by 78 feet long, and the fifth the same \nlength and 45 feet in width. The rest of the bathing area \nforms an L-shaped pool, 285 feet long and 75 feet wide, for \n157 feet, when it merges into the base of the L, and runs 153 \nfeet wide for 128 feet. In addition, there is a fresh-water \nplunge. \n\nThe Museum^ disposed along the promenade and galleries, \ncontains some notable displays. \n\nThe building of these baths and the installation of this col- \nlection was one of the last undertakings of Mr. Sutro, who \ndied in 1 898, two years after the gigantic structure was com- \npleted. \n\nJust below the baths and museum are the Cliff House and \nSeal Rocks. This vicinity is world-renowned. It has been \nthe scene of the lavish gaieties of San Franciscans for genera- \ntions. To this place in the past they drove their pairs of \nblooded trotters, and here they come today with the high- \npowered autos. \n\nFrom the porch of the Cliff House, Presidents Grant, Hayes, \nHarrison and McKinley have watched the sea lions lolling on \nthe rocks. \n\nThe present Cliff House is the third of a series, and was \nerected in 1909, its immediate predecessor having burned in \n1907, the year after the great fire. \n\nThe Cliff House is a restaurant, not a hotel. There is a \ngood cafe here, from whose windows one looks out, while din- \ning, on the glories of beach and surf, ocean and mountains \n\n\n\n98 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\nand rocky coast. The public is welcome, under the present \nmanagement, to descend the stone stairs to the broad terrace, \nwhence one sees across 300 feet of swirling tide those curious \nmarine objects, the Seal Roc^s, and their colonies of gulls, \ncormorants and sea lions. \n\nThese last are of "His wonders on the deep." Their huge, \nobese bodies, like apoplectic aldermen, dragged laboriously \nabout the crags ; their small and winsome dogs\' heads reared \nwith the grace of a fine setter ; their hideous black flippers so \npitifully inadequate for scaling rocks ; their handsome coats of \nbrown, drying in the sun or soaked and gleaming with the \nspray, make an absurd but fascmatmg combination of grace \nand awkwardness, of ugliness and beauty, that one can watch \nand wonder at by the hour. \n\nAt Forty-seventh avenue and Balboa street, within easy \nwalking distance of the Cliff House, is the Golden Gate Ostrich \nFarm, with incubators for the huge eggs, and with a rapidly \ngrowing flock. \n\nWe would advise visitors to return by the line of cars that \ntook them "out to the Cliff," as no other is quite so beautiful \nas the run along the bluffs from Baker\'s Beach to Point Lobos. \n\n\n\nTROLLEY TRIP NO. 2. \n\nMarket street. Park Panhandle, Affiliated Colleges and the \nHeights overlooking the Sunset District and the Pacific Ocean; \nreturning h^ the Twin Peaks Switch-hack- \n\nTake Hay^es street line No. 6, marked \'\'Ninth Avenue,\'\' at \nthe Ferr^, or anywhere on Market street, going rvestrvard. \nReturning, transfer at Ashhury street to car going south, and \ntransfer again at Eighteenth to Castro street Car No. 8, going \ntoward Ferr^. Ask for your transfer on hoarding car. \n\nThis route will take you through the heart of the city, and \nto a six-hundred-foot elevation beyond Twin Peaks. From \n\n\n\nBy Trolley and Cable 99 \n\nthe terminus a short walk will put you on a rocky promontory \n750 feet high, whence there is a sublime prospect of mountain, \nsand dune and ocean. The return will show part of the city \nand the bay. \n\nRunning out Market street, the car passes Marshall Square^ \nthe entrance to the old city hall site, which is on the right, \nwith the James Lick Monument to the Pioneers, and a bronze \ncannon taken from the Spaniards at Santiago de Cuba. The \nred dome rising just eastward of the city hall site is the roof \nof the Hall of Records. \n\nAt the east end of the Park Panhandle one sees the McKin- \nley Monument to "Peace," and the Southern Pacific Hospital \non the farther side. \n\nBeyond the Affiliated Colleges the car runs along the west- \nern slope of Blue Mountain, now called Mt. Sutro, a forested \nhill that rises on the left to a height of 920 feet. The build- \nings at its base, east of the terminus, are the County Relief \nHome for the Aged and Infirm, and the Infirmary, temporarily \nused as the City and County Hospital. \n\nFrom the end of the car line at Pacheco street and Ninth \navenue, walk south to Mendoza street, climb the hill to the \nwater tank, and thence follow the crest of the ridge out to a \nrocky point, beyond the flag pole. This point is over 750 feet \nabove the ocean and opens an unobstructed panorama north, \nsouth and west. \n\nNo other view within the limits of a city combines in equal \ndegree features of such sublimity with others of such delicate \nand quiet beauty. The first object to the extreme right is \nAlcatraz Island. To the north looms Tamalpais, hazy and \nblue in the distance, its lower slopes hidden by the nearer hills. \nThat famous waterway, the Golden Gate, shines like a rib- \nbon of blued steel at their feet. Then come the Presidio, \nGolden Gate Park with its slowly turning windmills, and, closer \nin, an immensity of rolling dunes with picture patches of vegeta- \ntion here and there. Homes and cultivation appear, suburban \ngardens and tree-planted tracts. \n\n\n\n1 00 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nDirectly west are the three-hundred-foot towers of the Poul- \nson wireless telegraph. \n\nSouthwestward are the two shining wings of Lake Merced^ \nand still farther south the San Bruno hills send out their sloping \nbuttresses and steep escarpments toward the sea. \n\nBeyond, and all along, making the most wonderful and \nunforgettable part of the picture, is the Pacific Ocean, and \nnowhere can a deeper impression of its majesty be felt than \nhere. One sees it throughout a sweep of 1 80 degrees. Distance \nand the altitude level the waves, and nothing breaks the crystal \nplain except the far-off dots of rock that form the outposts of \nthe Gulf of the Farallones. \n\nIf this grandeur oppresses, quieter beauties lie below. Ris- \ning gently through the sloping valley to the south are truck \nfarms, winding among wooded areas; little squares of choco- \nlate-colored tilth, or framed harmonies in the lush greens of \nmarket gardens, with the forms and composition of those Eng- \nlish landscapes that tempted the burins of the old engravers. \n\nBackward, to the east, can be seen a glimpse of the southern \nend of the bay ; and between the crests of Twin Peaks, the tip \nof Ml Diablo. \n\nSunset in the ocean, seen from this point in winter, or \nwhen summer fogs hang low and reflect the fiery glare of \nlevel rays, is indescribable in words, and the painter that should \nput it on canvas would be suspected of romanticism. \n\nNaturally, one wishes to see beyond those sharp peaks to \neastward. On the return trip take a transfer and \n\nChange at Ashbury street to the southbound car marked \n\'\'Third and Harrison and Park-\'\' Ask for another transfer \non boarding the car. \n\nThe car runs behind Mount Olympus, with its statue of \nLiberty, and emerges on the east face of Twin Peaks, passing \njust below the Ashbury Reservoir of the city\'s auxiliary salt- \nwater fire protection system. This tank holds half a million \ngallons, and connects with 75 miles of cast-iron pipe covering \nnearly all of San Francisco. It is fed from the Main Reservoir \n\n\n\nBy Trolley and Cable 101 \n\nof the system, on the Peaks above, which holds ten million \ngallons and forms the hydrostatic head of what Charles M. \nSchwab on a recent visit characterized as one of the greatest \npieces of engineering work in the world. \n\nThe car runs to a switch-back on the west slope of Twin \nPeaks and then winds down to Eighteenth street, affording as \nit does so, a grand vista of the bay and the hills of the opposite \nshore, as well as the Mission and Potrero districts of the city. \nAt the corner of Eighteenth and Castro streets. \n\nChange to northbound car "8" for the Ferry, which mil \ntake you down Market street. \n\nAt the head of Van Ness avenue, which you will pass \ncoming in, is the citizens\' monument to the California Volun- \nteers of the Spanish-American War. \n\nOn the northwest corner of Van Ness avenue and Oak \nstreet rises the stately and beautiful Masonic Temple. \n\nEven an average walker can get a glorious view of the city, \nthe ocean and the entire bay region from t^e top of Twin \nPeaks, easily accessible from the switch-back, or at the Fire \nDepartment house nearby. \n\nTROLLEY TRIP NO. 3. \n\nNob Hill, Chinatown, Fishermen s Wharf, Crab and Fish \nMarket, North Beach, Marine Reporting Station of the Cham- \nber of Commerce, Immigration Station, Custom House Station, \nQuarantine; Latin Quarter, Portsmouth Square and the Robert \nLouis Stevenson Monument, Hall of Justice, Chinatown again. \n\nTake \'\'Market and Powell, Bay and Taylor\'\' cable car, \nnorth bound, at Market and Powell streets, or anywhere on \nPowell street, or by transfer from any Market street car, and \ngo to terminus. Returning, take trolley car marked \'\'15\'\' at \nend of Powell street, ask for transfer, and at Kearny and Sac- \nramento streets change to west bound cable. Ask for transfer \nagain, and at Powell change to any south bound car. \n\nThis is one of the most interesting trips in San Francisco, \nor any other city, and, like some other San Francisco trolley \nexcursions, is made partly by cable. \n\n\n\n1 02 Handbool^ for San Francisco \n\nBeyond California, Powell street looks down on the Chinese \nQuarter for a distance of about five blocks. At Jackson street \nthe car turns westward, then follows Mason street to Columbus \navenue, running along the eastern slope of Russian Hill. From \nthis elevation there is a fair but somewhat broken view over \nthe bay, including Yerba Buena Island, the Alameda county \nshore and the Contra Costa hills back of Oakland and Berk- \neley. \n\nOn Broadway, westward from Mason street, is a very \nhandsome church building, that of Nuestra Senora de Guada- \nlupe, for the Spanish-American population of the city. Ahead \nappears Alcatraz Island, with its prison and lighthouse tower. \nFrom the turntable at the end of this route walk directly \nnorth through the lumber dumps to Fishermen\'s Wharf, which \nyou will find around the bend beyond the Neptune Restaurant. \nHere, if you have a liking for the human picturesque, you \nwill meet it face to face. \n\nFishermen s Wharf is two wharves, in a lagoon formed \nby rough breakwaters. About 1 75 fishing craft find harborage \nhere amid special facilities for carrying on the fishing industry. \nThe State charges a toll of 75 cents or a dollar, according to \nlength of boat. Iron ladders lead up from the water. Ways \nhave been built into it. There are high rails, worn smooth \nwith use, over which of a Saturday morning hundreds of acres \nof nets are hung to dry. South of the lagoon and east of it \nare boat builders\' shops. On the south shore is a blacksmith \nshop, where the necessary fastening, and marine hardware, is \nforged and kept in repair. And all the men engaged here, \nfishers, boatbuilders and blacksmiths, probably over 500, are \nItalian, many fresh from the Mediterranean and still speaking \nonly that "liquid music" which is their mother tongue. \n\nOnce they were almost all Genoese, but that was in the \nold days of the graceful, swift and treacherous lateen rig, with \nits lean sail slanting aft like the wing of a gull. Very few \nlateen sails are left, the gasoline engine having superseded \nthem; and, with the other changes of time, other places such as \n\n\n\nB^ Trolley and Cable 103 \n\nNaples, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Chiavari, Palermo, and Mes- \nsina, have contributed delegates, until almost all Italy and \nSicily are represented. The Genoese still stick together, how- \never, and amid the parti-colored boats theirs may be distin- \nguished by coats of pale green. \n\nHere is a complete Old World community at work at its \nown vocation on the shores of the Golden Gate; and it is \nforeign in costume, manner and speech. English is spoken by \nfew, and then by accident. Weather-brown men of the out- \ndoors go about sea-farmg tasks in regalia such as you see on \nthe stage. The general headgear is the Tam O\'Shanter, with \nfat pompon atop, woven originally in bright colors, but faded \ninto mellow harmonies by a hundred suns. The shirt is a \ncolored and often striped jersey. The trousers are belted with \na twisted sash, and disappear into the cavernous tops of huge \nsea-boots. It reads like the chorus of an opera troupe; and \nit is tradition that a chorus once struck in San Francisco and \nwithin an hour the manager had forty voices from Fishermen\'s \nWharf, and they needed no grease paint and no rehearsals to \nrender Verdi and Donizetti with a spirit rare in any theater. \n\nThursday afternoon is the best time to visit Fishermen\'s \nWharf, when the big catches of rock-cod, smelt, striped bass \nand crabs are brought in to be sold in the free fish and crab \nmarket around the corner from Caviglia\'s boat-building shop. \nBut there is always something doing, whether it is Thursday \nor not. With block and tackle they may be dragging a boat \nup the ways for paint and repairs \xe2\x80\x94 when all bystanders "tail \non" and pull with all their weight. Or, rocking peacefully \nin the little lagoon, a couple of owners bait hundreds of feet of \nline coiled in a tray, with the hooks caught in the padded rim; \ntransfixing anchovies on them with magical deftness, and then \nbaiting other trayfuls and yet other trayfuls until the hold is \nfilled with trays of line ready for a start at midnight. Or, \nagain, sitting in the sun, silent and saturnine, pipe in mouth, an \niron hoop about his knees and a long shuttle of seine line in his \n\n\n\n04 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nhand, a crab fisher weaves a crab net with all the restful cer- \ntainty of an old woman knitting a sock. \n\nIn a shed behind the crab market, a darkened obscurity lit \nhere and there by the glow of low fires, the nets receive their \nbrown color in huge vats of tannage. \n\n\n\n\nDRYING NETS AT FlSllKU.MKN S WHARF. \n\n\n\nThe little community thinks, dreams and lives fish. The \nchildren learn the industry by absorption and inhalation. They \nadmire like connoisseurs the silver crops landed in baskets on \nthe wharf, they lend a hand to make fast the painter as a \nlaunch chugs in, they clamber over the unclad skeletons of \nboats in Caviglia\'s, heedless of the chance of falling through \nthe ribs or stepping on a chisel. \n\nThe blue sky, the dancing water of the Golden Gate, the \nships at anchor in the stream, the amethystine hills, the moun- \ntains looming beyond, the islands like Ischia and Capri, the \nkeen air with its salty smell, make an environment in which toil \n\n\n\nBy Trolley and Cable 105 \n\nresembles sport, and men and boys go about it with a satis- \nfaction that finds its vent in jocular shouts and gusty laughter. \n\nNorthward over a convenient plank you reach the marine \nreporting station of the Chamber of Commerce. Beside it, in \na row of old water-front structures, are the Immigration \nStation and the barge office of the Custom House. The quar- \nantine steamer lies at the dock, and a pilot boat is likely to \nbe riding in the stream. For this is the official entrance to \nSan Francisco Bay. \n\nWestward of this point, the wooded hill running out into \nthe water is the site of Fort Mason and the Transport Docks. \n\nWalk eastward along the wharves, where the big steam \nschooners are discharging hundreds of thousands of feet of \nlumber from "up the coast," to the gas-holder at the foot of \nPowell street, and here \n\nTake Trolley Car \'\'15,\'\' southbound, and asJ^ for transfer. \n\nThis car takes you down Powell street to Columbus avenue, \nand then by Union, Stockton and Broadway into Kearny street. \nDown Stockton to Broadway and along Broadway to Kearny, \nyou are going through the business section of the Latin Quarter; \nfirst the business signs bear French names and then Italian, and \nthere are several blocks where you will not see an English name. \n\nDown Kearny street you will pass the Hall of Justice, and \nPortsmouth Square, where stands the monument to Robert \nLouis Stevenson. (See index). \n\nChange at Sacramento street to westbound cable car marked \n\'\'Ferries and Fillmore via Sacramento and Clay.\'* Get a \ntransfer. \n\nThis car lifts you up the hill through Chinatown, which can \nonly be seen to advantage lingeringly and afoot. \n\nAt the Fairmont Hotel change to southbound Powell street \ncable, which will take you back to Market street and the point \nof beginning. \n\nTROLLEY TRIP NO. 4. \n\nPresidio Military Reservation, and Exposition site at Har- \nbor View, by way of O\'Farrell street and the retail and \n\n\n\n1 06 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\napartment house districts. Returning fcp Fillmore street hill. \nNob Hill and Powell street. \n\nTake O\'Farrell street cable car at Market and O\'Farrell \nstreets, transfer at Union street to trolley car marked *\'Pre- \nsidio,\'\' west bound, and go to end of line. Returning, change \nat Fillmore street to car bound south (up the hill) and at \nWashington street change again to \'\'Washington, Jackson, \nPowell and Market\'\' cable car bound east. \n\nO\'Farrell street affords a fair example of the rebuilding of \nthe downtown section of San Francisco. The buildings are \nlarge, new and beautifully appointed, as they are throughout \nthis entire retail section, and the stores are as fine as can be \nfound anywhere. \n\nAt H^de and Union streets, transfer to Presidio and Fer- \nries line, car marked \'\'Presidio,\'\' bound west. \n\nWithin a block the view discloses the topographical reasons \nfor the location of the Panama-Pacific Exposition. A bowl- \nshaped anrphitheater cper^s ahead, its sides built up with dwell- \nings and its floor containing the level land that forms the Expo- \nsition site. \n\nUp Van Ness avenue, a block north at the corner of Green \nstreet, you catch a glimpse, in passing, of the small dome and \nturrets of the Creek Catholic Cathedral, one of four in the \nUnited States. \n\nAs the car runs west on Union street, the Exposition grounds \nlie to the northward at the edge of the water. \n\nThe terminus of the line is inside the "Presidio," which was \nthe Spanish name for the military post. This Presidio was \nfounded by the Spaniards in 1 776, and covers an area of \n1,542 acres. During the recent Philippine insurrection 10,000 \nAmerican soldiers at a time camped here. Part of it projects \ninto the Golden Gate in the form of a long cape, called Fort \nPoint, with Fort Winfield Scott at the northern end. \n\nNear the end of the car line, on the north, are the buildings \nof the finest and most extensive military hospital in the United \nStates, the Letterman General Hospital. It cost over half a \n\n\n\nBy Trolley^ and Cable 107 \n\nmillion dollars, and here the sick and wounded soldier boys \nreturning from the Philippines are cared for. \n\nThere are fine drives through the reservation, and a good \nwalker will find much of interest. The Presidio is open to the \npublic, but in certain parts marked by signs at the roadside, \ncameras are forbidden. \n\nDress parades are held Thursdays and Fridays at 4 p. m. \n\nGuard mounting may be seen on the upper parade at 9 a. \nm. Sundays, 10 a, m. Saturdays and 10:30 the other days \nof the week. \n\nInfantry drills can be seen daily between 7 and 11 a. m., \nexcept Saturdays and Sundays. At that hour on Saturday \ninspection is held. \n\nAt Fort W infield Scott, the fortifications can be visited, but \nonly on a pass obtained from the Adjutant\'s office in the Ad- \nministration building, and in company with a man detailed for \nthe purpose. The best time is the morning, before 1 1 o\'clock, \nas nobody can be detailed for this service in the afternoon. Ar- \ntillery drill occurs from 8 to 10 a, m., daily, except Thursdays, \nSaturdays, Sundays, and holidays. At 4:30 p. m., Thursdays, \nthere is a parade. None of the fortifications or batteries must \nbe sketched or photographed. \n\nReturning, ta^e a transfer and change at Fillmore street to \ncar bound south (up the hill). \n\nHere a cable will lift you for two blocks on the steepest \ngrade mounted by any car line in San Francisco. Rearward \nare the Golden Gate and the Marin county hills. At the top \nof the grade you change again to a car going in the same \ndirection. Get a transfer. \n\nPassing Calvary^ Presby^terian Church, the next transfer point \nis at Washmgton street, one block beyond. \n\nAt Fillmore and Washington streets, change to the cable \ncar mar}(ed *\' Washington, Jacl^son, Powell and Marl^et,\'\' \nbound east on Washington street. \n\nA few blocks eastward is Lafayette Parl^, on the right. \n\n\n\n08 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nAlong this line and parallel streets such as Jackson, Pacific, \nBroadway and Vallejo, forming in part what is called \'\'Pacific \nHeights,\'\' and reaching as far as Powell street, on Nob Hill, \nare many of the finer residences of the city ; the town houses of \nlocal merchants, bankers and capitalists. \n\n\n\n\nSAN FRANCISCO APARTMENTS \xe2\x80\x94 PUEBLO TYPE. \n\nAs the car swings around mto Powell street there is a \nbeautiful vista of the bay, with Yerba Buena Island, and the \ncities on the opposite shore. \n\nYou descend rapidly into the business district, passing the \nSt. Francis Hotel, at Geary street, and running to the turntable \nat Market in front of the Flood building, which stands on the \nsite of the famous old Baldwin Hotel. \n\nTROLLEY TRIP NO. 5. \n\nUnion Iron Works, Potrero Industrial District, Islais Creek, \nButcher Toivn, Bay Vierv, Six-Mile House and Visitacion \nValley; returning by rvay of the Mission. \n\n\n\nBy Trolley and Cable [09 \n\nTake Kentucky street line No. 16, anyrvhere along Kearny \nstreet, or at Third and Market; ask for transfer, and ride to \nterminus at Thirty-second avenue south. Change here to **Fisi- \ntacion Valley, Railroad Avenue and Mission\' line. Return- \ning, take ^\'Cemeteries\'\' car. No. 14, or San Mateo car, east \nhound, the first of which Tvill take you down Mission street, \nand the second to Fifth and Market. \n\nThe route takes you down Third street, past the Southern \nPacific Depot at Townsend. Up Townsend to the left, at \nSecond, you can see the handsome concrete Pumping Station \nNo. 1 , of the city\'s auxihary fire protection system. This sta- \ntion is equipped with four great turbine pumps that can drive \n10,000 gallons of water a minute, drawn from the bay, all \nover San Francisco, under a pressure of 300 pounds to the \ninch. A reservoir under the building holds a million gallons \nof fresh water to supply the eight boilers, and nearby is storage \nfor 2,000 barrels of fuel oil. \n\nThe car crosses the Channel at Fourth street, and runs \ndown to and along Kentucky street. On the left lies Central \nBasin, with the gaunt skeleton frames of the Union Iron \nWorks. The frames carry traveling cranes, by which are han- \ndled the materials for the construction of the largest types of \nship. A launching from these ways is an interesting and \nthrilling spectacle. \n\nAt this plant were built the battleship "Oregon," whose \ndramatic run around South America during the Spanish war \nawakened the anxieties of the nation and caused the irresistible \npublic demand for the construction of the Panama Canal; and \nthe cruiser "Olympia," Admiral Dewey\'s flagship at the battle \nof Manila Bay. Other war vessels built here have been the \nbattleships "Wisconsin" and "Ohio," the armored cruisers \n"California" and "South Dakota," the protected cruisers \n"Charleston," "San Francisco," "Milwaukee" and "Taco- \nma," the monitors "Monterey" and "Wyoming," a long list \nof gunboats, torpedo boats and destroyers, and several sub- \nmarines. The imperial Japanese cruiser "Chitose" was also \n\n\n\n1 1 HandbooJ^ for San Francisco \n\nconstructed by the Union Iron Works. This plant and the \ngreat drydocks at Hunter\'s Point have recently been acquired \nby the Bethlehem Steel Company. \n\nThree blocks beyond the Union Iron Works, at Potrero \nPoint, is the Western Sugar Refinery, one of the largest indus- \ntrial plants about the bay. \n\nThe car next crosses Islais Creef^, destmed to be a fine inland \nharbor. \n\nOn the right are extensive truck gardens, farmed by thrifty \nItalians, and irrigated by scores of windmills that make a Hol- \nland scene. This tract is already being marketed for factory \nsites, being close to rail and water. \n\nAt Thirty-second street, change for the Six-Mile House. \n\nThe road now winds down into Visitacion Valley, a prom- \nising new industrial district, crosses over the line into San \nMateo county, crosses back again into San Francisco, and \nmakes a cross-country run to Mission street. \n\nAt Mission street, take north hound car. \n\nThis car will bring you into the city by the route described \nin Trolley Trip No. 3, along Mission street, whence you can \ntransfer to Market at any convenient crossing. \n\nTROLLEY TRIP NO. 6. \n\nSan Mateo by Way of \'\'The Mission,\'\' Daly City, the \nCemeteries, Tanforan, Burlingame and Hillshoro. Returning \nby Way of San Jose avenue and Guerrero street. \n\nTake San Mateo car at Fifth and Market streets. The \nfare to San Mateo is trventy-five cents. Returning, pay twenty \ncents to Daly City and there change to Ocean View line \nNo. 26, marked \'\'Ferries and Daly City (or Ocean View) \nvia Mission, Guerrero Street and San Jose Avenue.\'\' \n\nThis trip leads through "the Mission," down to the county \nline at what is called Daly City, thence around the San Bruno \nhills and along the east side of the Sierra Morena ridge. \n\nThe cemeteries are on this line \xe2\x80\x94 IVoodlawn, Cypress Lawn, \nHoly Cross, and others, interments being prohibited in San \n\n\n\nB^ Trolley and Cable 1 1 1 \n\nFrancisco. They are very beautiful, with their pools and \nfountains near the car line, and show what cultivation can do \nin this rare climate. \n\nA short distance out from San Francisco the car passes \nTanforan, a once popular race track. A few mijes below \nTanforan on this road is the ranch of the late D. O. Mills, a \nsuperb estate stretching back toward the hills. \n\nProbably this is the wealthiest neighborhood in the West, \nalthough it is little on display from the car. \n\nSan Mateo itself is one of the prettiest residence towns in \nthe whole of California, calling itself, not inaptly, the "Floral \nCity." Gardens abound. Here is a good hostelry, the Hotel \nPeninsula, with broad and inviting grounds, a few blocks from \nthe end of the car line \xe2\x80\x94 a popular resort for San Franciscans. \nOne can get a satisfactory table d\'hote luncheon or dinner at \na moderate price at the little French hotel next to the Public \nLibrary on Second street. There are livery stables and gar- \nages, and if one has the time and would see the country to the \nbest advantage he can take a number of drives from San Mateo \ninto entrancing scenes of mountain and redwood forest, by \nromantic roads, through vales of the most delicate loveliness to \nlakes more beautiful than Killarney. Here are some of the \ndrives and auto routes laid out by the San Mateo Board of \nTrade : \n\nNorth LaJ^e Drive, via Crystal Springs New Dam (second \nlargest in the world), San Andreas and Millbrae; circuit 20 \nmiles. \n\nCrystal Springs Lake to Halfmoon Bay (Spanishtown), \nthrough the famous San Gabilan Pass and Moss Beach on the \nPacific Ocean ; 1 5 miles. \n\nLas Pulgas Drive, via the Lakes, via Canyada Valley, via \nWest Union Vineyards and Redwood City. \n\nStanford University, via Middlefield Road, through beau- \ntiful Fair Oaks, returning through the redwoods via Woodside. \n\nBurlingame Coif Links, Polo Fields, Country Club, resi- \ndence district and San Mateo beach; circuit six miles. \n\n\n\n1 1 2 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nSummit Drive (altitude 2,000 feet), Kings Mountain, via \nWoodside and Redwood City. \n\nPescadero, Pebble Beach, via Purisima and San Gregorio, \nreturning through the redwoods via La Honda. \n\nThe San Andreas and Crystal Springs reservoirs are the \nmain source of San Francisco\'s water supply. \n\nCars start back from San Mateo to San Francisco every \ntwenty minutes, or one can take the Southern Pacific and come \nup by way of the Bay Shore cut-off and the tunnels, running \nalong the edge of the bay. The return by trolley, along the \nhills, is very pleasant. Approaching town, one sees, to the \nright, the San Bruno hills, or mountains, rising 1 ,300 feet. \nThe ridge runs in an easterly and westerly direction, and be- \nyond the eastern extremity rise three of those ghostly, skeleton \ntowers of the wireless telegraph system, belongmg to the same \ncompany that operates the pair on the ocean beach near Golden \nGate Park. One of these towers is 608 feet high, the tallest \ntimber structure in the world, and the tallest wireless telegraph \ntower in America. The station communicates with the Ha- \nwaiian Islands. \n\nTo vary the scene and traverse a different part of "the \nMission" on the return trip, \n\nGet off at Daly Cit]) and take car on line No. 26, running \nby n>ay of San Jose avenue. Diamond, Chenery and Thirtieth \nstreets, Guerrero and Mission. \n\nTROLLEY TRIP NO. 7. \n\nMission street, the Mint, Post Office, National Guard Ar- \nmory, Mission residence and business district, great viaduct, \nSutro Forest, Ocean avenue. Lake Merced, Sloat Boulevard, \nGreat Highway and the Ocean Beach; returning through Park- \nside and the Sunset district, along south side of Golden Gate \nPark by Switch-Back Railway on the slope of Twin Peaks, \ndown through \'\'The Mission\' and the industrial district, to \nThird street and up to Market. \n\n\n\nBp Trolley and Cable 1 1 3 \n\n\n\nTake Ingleside line No. 12, on Mission street, going west- \nward. Returning, transfer at Twenty^-fifth avenue to Parkside \ncar going northward; transfer again at Twentieth avenue and \nLincoln way to Line 20, \'\'Ellis and Ocean\' car going east; at \nWaller and Stanyan, transfer to \'\'Third and Harrison and \nPark\'\' car, going east; at Third street transfer to any Third \nstreet car hound north, to Third and Market streets. Ask for \ntransfer when you board the cars. \n\nMission street runs parallel with Market, one block south. \nOn the right, as the car passes Fifth street, one sees the United \nStates Branch Mint. (See index). \n\nTwo blocks beyond, at Seventh street, is the United States \nCourt House and Post Office building, which see. \n\nAt the corner of Fourteenth street, on the right, is the San \nFrancisco Armory of the National Guard of California, an \nimposing structure covering a space 240x280 feet, with offices, \nlocker rooms, dressing rooms, mess rooms and kitchens, a swim- \nming tank, a gymnasium, a rifle range, large disappearing guns, \nthe proper ammunition vault, a drill court 1 68x240 feet, with \na gun shed adjoining; and a social hall, library and reading \nroom. It cost $300,000. \n\nJust beyond, the car runs into the populous and popular \n^\'Mission District,\'\' with thronging business streets, like another \ncity. \n\nThe route skirts Balhoa Park, on the right, the old coursing \npark, once the scene of a very popular sport; and the lower \nedge of the Sutro forest. Through the trees beyond on the \nother side of the car, one catches indigo glimpses of Lake \nMerced. \n\nThe terminus of the car line is at the southern end of the \nGreat Highway, at its junction with Sloat Boulevard. The \nbeach is just beyond, and here one looks out on the vast \nPacific across a sweep of tumbling foam. \nReturning, ask for transfer. \n\nChange at Thirty-fifth avenue to Parkside line, hound \nnorth. \n\n\n\n1 1 4 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nThis route will thread the dunes of Par^side and take you \nup through the Sunset District. \n\nChanging again at Twentieth avenue and Lincoln D^ap, you \nare taken along the south side of Golden Gate Park, passing \nwithin sight of the Affiliated Colleges, and around the south- \neast corner of the Park to the Haight street entrance. \n\nChange here to the \'\'Third and Harrison and Park\'\' ^\'"^. \ngoing east. \n\nAs the car turns into Ashbury street and begins to climb \nthe hill it affords a fine view of Lone Mountain and the north- \nern part of the city, with the Marin county hills beyond. \n\nThe car descends the hill, traverses "the Mission" on \nEighteenth street at right angles to the route going out, run- \nning between the Mission High School and Mission Park, \nbetween Church and Dolores streets, and within a block of \nthe Mission Dolores, and winds into Harrison street at Four- \nteenth. \n\nAt Third street, Harrison runs into the steep grade of Rin- \ncon Hill. \n\nChange here to anij car going north, which will take pou \nup Third to Market street at Newspaper Square. \n\nTROLLEY TRIP NO. 8. \n\nBuena Vista Park, <^^d View over Cit\\^, Bay and Ocean. \n\nTake Haight street line No. 7, on Market street, and get \noff at Buena Vista Park entrance opposite the end of Lyon \nstreet. Return by same way. \n\nBuena Vista Park is a wooded hill located almost in the \ncenter of the city and affording a fine view. It is east of \nGolden Gate Park, south of the eastern end of the Panhandle, \nand on a line with Fourteenth street, projected. The ascent \nbegins at the stone steps on Haight street. \n\nThere are 36 acres in the park, which rises to a height of \nover 500 feet. The outlook is almost as good as that from the \ntop of Lone Mountain, and the paths give a better footing, \nmaking an easier climb. \n\n\n\nBy Trolley and Cable \n\n\n\n115 \n\n\n\nTROLLEY TRIP NO. 9. \n\nBy the sightseeing car of the United Railroads. Fare, 75 \ncents, Tvhich includes entrance fee to Sutro Museum and Baths. \n\nLower Market street. Post street and the retail district. \nUnion Square, Dewey Monument, Presidio, Golden Gate, \nLand\'s End, Sutro Baths and Museum, Cliff House and Seal \n\n\n\n\nCopyright, R. J. Waters & Co. \nLOOKING DOWN MARKET STREET FROM POWELL. \n\nRocks, Lincoln Park, L^ort Miley, Golden Gate Park, Park \nPanhandle, Ashbury Heights, Affiliated Colleges, Mission \nDolores, through the Mission District and back io Market \nstreet. \n\nCar leaves its station inside Ferry Loop at 10 a. m. and 2 \np. m., and makes a stop at Montgomery, Post and Market \nstreets at 10:05 a. m. and 2:05 p. m. \n\nThis trip covers about 38 miles in a little over three hours, \nand is a good one for those whose time is short and who wish \n\n\n\n1 1 6 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nto avoid the annoyance of having to transfer. Many important \nand beautiful parts of the city are described by the conductor, \nand as the route laid out is very comprehensive, a good idea \nof San Francisco may be obtained in this vv^ay with little effort. \n\n\n\nCHURCHES AND DIVINE SERVICE. \n\nThe churches of San Francisco have played a vital part \nin its evolution. The Mission of San Francisco d\'Assisi, \nwhich came to be called the Mission Dolores from the little \ncreek near which it was built, was the initial ecclesiastical \nestablishment, and part of the foundation of the city. \n\nIn 1 848 the Rev. T. Dwight Hunt arrived in San Fran- \ncisco, and before a week was out was appointed chaplain to \nthe little community. The first permanent Protestant house of \nworship in the city was built by his flock, which, as the First \nCongregational church, throve under the ministry of such stal- \nwart good citizens as Dr. Stone and Dr. Barrows. \n\nThe first public school in San Francisco was opened in the \nFirst Baptist church on December 26th, 1 849, by John C. \nPelton, with three pupils. \n\nCalvary Presbyterian Church, which formerly stood on the \npresent site of the St. Francis hotel, was a vital factor in the \ncommunity, under the ministration of Dr. William A. Scott. \n\nSuch men as Dr. Horatio Stebbins, Thomas Starr King \nand Elkan Cohn were not only influential as clergymen, but \nas leaders in culture and citizenship. \n\n"Old St. Mary\'s" as it is affectionately called, is a land- \nmark, and was the scene of the labors of Archbishop Alemany, \nwhose portrait ornaments the vestibule opposite that of Padre \nJunipero Serra. \n\nThe Second New Jerusalem Church (Swedenborgian) at \nLyon and Washington streets, is an architectural gem. So are \nsuch edifices as the Evangelical Lutheran, Emanu El, the \n\n\n\nChurches and Divine Service 1 1 7 \n\npresent Calvary Presbyterian, the First Presbyterian, St. \nLuke\'s Holy Catholic, the First Church of Christ, Scientist, and \nmany more, and so will be the First Congregational, and the \nnew Grace Cathedral, which is to arise on the California street \nsite donated by the Crocker family. \n\nAlmost all leading religious denominations are represented \nand have places of worship in San Francisco. For the conven- \nience of visitors wishing to attend divine service we give the \nnames and locality of a number of the more noted churches that \nare readily accessible from the downtown section, and several \ncar lines by which they may be reached. \n\nBAPTIST. \n\nFirst Baptist Junction of Market, Octavia and Waller \nstreets. \n\nTal^e Haight street cars. Line No. 7, to Octavia street; \nMarket street cars. Line No. 8, to Waller street; Valencia \nstreet cars. Line No. 9, to Valencia street; or Valencia, Cough \nand Fillmore street cars. Line No. 23, to Valencia. \n\nPreaching service, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. \n\nHamilton Square Baptist. Post street, between Fillmore and \nSteiner. \n\nTake Sutter street car. Line No. I , or Sutter and Clement, \nLine No. 2; get off at Steiner street and walk a block south; \nor Gear}) Street Municipal line, to Steiner street, and walk ^ \nblock north; or Fillmore and Sixteenth, Line No. 22, or Fill- \nmore and Mission, Line No. 23, get off at Post and Walk ^ \nblock west. \n\nPreaching service, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. \n\nCHRISTIAN. \n\nFirst Christian. Duboce avenue and Noe street. \n\nHaight street car. Line No. 7, to Pierce street and walk \ntwo blocks south and through the small park; or Market street \ncar. Line No. 8, to Noe street and walk three blocks north \n\n\n\n118 Handbool( for San Francisco \n\nto Duboce; or Fillmore and Sixteenth, Line No. 22, to Duboce, \nand Tvalk two blocks Tvest. \n\nPreaching services, II a. m. and 7:45 p. m, Sundays. \n\nWest Side Christian. Bush street, between Scott and Divis- \nadero. \n\nSutter and California car. Line No. I , or Sutter and Clem- \nent, Line No. 2, get off at Scott and walk o. block north to \nBush; or Geary street line, get off at Scott and Walk three \nblocks north to Bush; or California street cable to Scott and \nWalk two blocks south to Bush; Turk and Eddy, Line No. 4, \nor Mission and Richmond, Line No. 24, to Bush and Divisa- \ndero, and walk east. \n\nPreaching services, 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m., Sundays. \n\nCHRISTIAN SCIENCE. \n\nFirst Church of Christ, Scientist, CaHfornia and Franklin \nstreets. \n\nCalifornia street cable; or Ninth and Polk car. Line No. 19. \nto California street and walk i\'^o blocks west. \n\nSunday services, 11 a. m. and 8 p. m. \n\nCONGREGATIONAL. \n\nFirst Congregational. Post and Mason streets. \n\nSutter street car. Lines I, 2 or 3, to Mason and walk a \nblock south, or Geary street line and walk ^ block north; or \nMontgomery and Tenth street line, no number. \n\nServices, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 8 p. m. \n\nMission Congregational. Nineteenth and Dolores streets, \nopposite Mission Park. \n\nValencia street car. Line No. 9, to Nineteenth street, and \nWalk two blocks west; or Fillmore and Sixteenth car. Line No. \n22, to Dolores street and walk three blocks south; or Eigh- \nteenth street line, no number, to Dolores and walk one block \nsouth. \n\nServices, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. \n\n\n\nChurches and Divine Service 1 19 \n\nPROTESTANT EPISCOPAL. \n\nGrace Cathedral. Taylor and Sacramento streets. \n\nSacramento cable to Taylor, California street cable to Tay- \nlor and rvalf^ a block north, or Powell street cable to Sacra- \nmento and Walk i^o blocks west. \n\nWhen the crypt, on CaHfornia street, is made ready, services \nwill be held there. (See index). \n\nSunday services. Holy Communion, 8 a. m. ; morning service \nand sermon, 11 a. m. ; choral vespers, with address, 5 p. m. \nDuring the week daily services are held under the direction of \nthe Church Divinity School, at 8:30 a. m. and 5:30 p. m. \nHoly Communion on Wednesdays and holy days at 10 a. m. \n\nTrinity Church. Bush and Gough streets. \n\nSutter street cars. Lines J, 2 or 3, to Cough street and \nWalk a block north; or California street cable to Cough street \nand Walk ^^o blocks south. \n\nServices, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 8 p. m. \n\n5/. Luke\'s Holy Catholic. Van Ness avenue and Clay \nstreet. \n\nTake Jackson street cable, no number, starting from Powell \nand Market, to Van Ness, and walk two blocks south; or \nCalifornia street cable to Van Ness and walk i^o blocks \nnorth; or any west-bound trolley such as the Hayes street Line \nNo. 6, Turk and Eddy No. 4, McAllister No. 5, or any \nMarket street line, transfer to Ninth and Polk street. Line No. \n19, north bound, get off at Clay street and walk ^ block Tvest. \n\nServices, Sundays 8 a. m., 9:45 a. m., 1 1 a. m., 8 p. m. \nWeek day services announced. \n\nTRINITY CATHEDRAL OF THE HOLY GREEK RUSSIAN. \n\nEastern Orthodox Catholic Church. Van Ness avenue and \nGreen street. \n\nPresidio and Ferries car (Union street line) to Van Ness \navenue and Walk a block north; or Ninth and Polk street car. \nLine No. 19, to Green street, and walk a block west. \n\n\n\n1 20 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nServices, Saturdays at 7 p. m. ; Sundays and holy days, 1 \na. m. and 7 p. m. \n\nHEBREW. \nTemple Emanu-EL 4 1 4 Sutter street, between Stockton \nand Powell. \n\nPorvell street cable to Sutter street; or Sutter car. Lines /, \n\n2 or 3. \n\nServices, Fridays at 5 p. m. ; Saturdays at 10 a. m. \n\nTemple Israel. Congregation Sherith Israel. California \nand Webster streets. \n\nCalifornia street cable car; or Sacramento street cable to \nWebster and Sacramento, if Tvest bound, and walk a block \nsouth, or to Webster and Cla^ if east bound, and walk two \nblocks south; or take Sutter and Jackson car. Line No. 3, or \nFillmore and Sixteenth car. Line No. 22, or Fillmore and \nMission car. Line No. 23, to corner of California and Fillmore \nstreets and walk ^ block east. \n\nServices, Saturdays at 10 a. m. \n\nGear"^ Street Temple, Congregation Beth Israel. Geary, \nnear Fillmore. \n\nCear"^ street municipal car line, or O\'Farrell and H^de street \nline to Fillmore and walk ^ block north; or Fillmore and Six- \nteenth car. Line No. 22, or Fillmore and Mission car. Line \nNo. 23, to Cear^ street. \n\nServices, Friday at 5:30 p. m., and Saturday at 9 a. m. \nIn winter the Friday services are at 5 p. m. \n\nLUTHERAN. \n\nFirst English Lutheran. Geary street, between Gough and \nOctavia. \n\nGeary street cars; or Ellis and Ocean, Line No. 20, to \nGough street, and walk a block north if you were on a car \nbound westward, or two blocks north if on a car of this line \nbound eastward. \n\nServices, preaching every Sunday at 1 I a. m. and 8 p. m. \n\n\n\nChurches and Divine Service 121 \n\n\n\nEvangelical Lutheran St. Pauls Church. Eddy and Gough \nstreet. \n\nTurk and Eddy car. Line No. 4; if east hound get off at \nCough street and Tvalk a block north. \n\nServices, Sundays at 10:45 a. m. and 8 p. m. The \nmorning service is always in German. The evening service on \nthe first and third Sundays in the month is in English, second \nand fourth Sundays in German. \n\nMETHODIST EPISCOPAL. ; \n\nFirst Methodist Episcopal. Clay and Larkin streets. \n\nSacramento street car to Larkin, and if traveling westward, \nwalk a block north; if traveling eastward the car goes to the \nchurch; or take California street car to Larkin and walk ^^o \nblocks north; or Jackson street car to Larkin, and if traveling \nwestward walk two blocks south, if eastward, one block south; \nor Ninth and Polk car. Line No. 19, to Clay, and walk a \nblock east; or O\'Farrell, Jones and Hyde street car to Clay \nand Walk a block west. \n\nServices, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. \n\nCentral Methodist Episcopal. OTarrell and Leavenworth \nstreets. \n\nMontgomery and Tenth street car to O\'Farrell; or O\'Far- \nrell street cable to Jones and walk a block west; or Ellis and \nOcean car. Line No. 20; or Hayes and Ellis, No. 21, to \nLeavenworth, and walk a block north; or Geary street Munici- \npal Railroad to Leavenworth and walk a block south; or Ninth \nand Polk street car. Line No. 19, to O\'Farrell and walk two \nblocks east. \n\nServices, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. \n\nCalifornia Street Methodist Episcopal. California and \nBroderick streets. \n\nCalifornia street car to Broderick; or Turk and Eddy car. \nLine No. 4, to California, and Walk a block west; or Mission \nand Richmond car. Line No. 24, to California, and walk a \nblock West. \n\n\n\n122 HandbooJf for San Francisco \n\nServices, Sundays 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m., in summer, and \n7:30 in winter. \n\nGrace Methodist Episcopal. Twenty-first and Capp streets. \n\nValencia street car. Line No. 9, on Market street, to Trven- \ntV-first street, and walk a block and a half east; or Howard \nstreet car, no number, to Trvent^-first street, and walk half a \nblock T^cst; or Mission street car. Line No. 18, to Twenty- \nfirst street, and walk half a block east; or Fillmore and Valen- \ncia street car. Line No. 23, to Twent])-first street, and walk \na block and a half east. \n\nServices, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. \n\nPRESBYTERIAN. \n\nCalvary Presbyterian. Jackson and Fillmore streets. \n\nJackson street cable, no number, starting from Powell and \nMarket, to Fillmore street; Sutter street car on Line No. 3, \nor any car west bound on the United Railroads transferring to \nFillmore street, north bound; or Union street car, no number, \nand transfer to Fillmore, south bound. \n\nServices, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. \n\nThe former home of this church was on the site of the St. \nFrancis hotel. \n\nFirst Presbyterian. Van Ness avenue and Sacramento \nstreet. \n\nSacramento street cable, no number, to the door, if west \nbound; if east bound, get off at Van Ness avenue and Walk \na block south; or take Jackson street cable, no number, start- \ning from Powell and Market, to Van Ness avenue and walk \nthree blocks south; or California street line to Van Ness and \nWalk o. block north; or any west bound trolley such as the \nHayes street Line No. 6, Turk and Eddy No. 4, or McAllis- \nter No. 5, or any other Market street line, transfer to Ninth \nand Polk street. Line No. 19, north bound, get off at Sacra- \nmento street and walk a block "west. \n\nServices, Sundays 11 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. \n\n\n\nChurches and Divine Service 123 \n\n\n\nSt. Johns Presbyterian. Arguello boulevard (First ave- \nnue) and Lake street. \n\nTurk ^"^ Eddy car. Line No. 4 ; or Sutter and California, \nLine No. I, to Arguello boulevard (First avenue) and walk \na block north; or Mission and Richmond cross town car. Line \nNo. 24, which passes the door. \n\nServices, 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. Sundays. \n\nTrinity Presbyterian. Twenty-third and Capp streets. \n\nValencia street car. Line No. 9, to Twenty-third street and \nWalk two and a half blocks east; or Mission street car. Line \nNo. 18, to Twenty-third street and walk half a block east; or \nHoward street car, no number, to Twenty-third street, and half \na block west. \n\nServices, Sundays 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. \n\nUNITED PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH OF NORTH AMERICA. \n\nFirst United Presbyterian Church. Golden Gate avenue \nbetween Steiner and Pierce streets. \n\nMcAllister street car. Line No. 5, to Steiner and walk a \nblock north to Golden Gate avenue; or Turk and Eddy No. \n4 to Steiner and walk two blocks south; or Fillmore and Six- \nteenth, No. 22, to Golden Gate avenue and walk a block and \na half west. \n\nServices, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. \n\nROMAN CATHOLIC. \n\n5^ Marys Cathedral. Van Ness avenue and O\'Farrell \nstreet. \n\nEllis street car. Line No. 20 or 21, to Van Ness and \nO\'Farrell; or Ninth and Polk street car. Line No. 19, (can \nbe reached by transfer from cars of the United Railroads run- \nning east and west) to O\'Farrell and Larkin streets and walk \ntwo blocks west. The Geary Street Municipal Railroad crosses \nVan Ness avenue a block north of the Cathedral. \n\nSunday services: Masses, 6, 7, 8 and 9:30 a. m., with \nHigh Mass and sermon at 11. Vespers, with sermon and \n\n\n\n1 24 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nbenediction, at 8 p. m. Musical services are confined to High \nMass and Vespers. \n\nSt. Mar^^s. Grant avenue and California street. \n\nCalifornia street cable to Grant avenue; or Kearny and \nBeach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentuck"^, Line No. \n16, to California street and Tvalk a block west. \n\nSunday services: Masses at 6:30, 8, 9, 10, 10:45 a. \nm. ; 12:15 and 8 p. m. High mass is at 10:45 a. m. On \nweekdays there are masses at 6:30, 7 and 8 a. m. This is \nthe oldest church in the city except the Mission Dolores. \n\n5/. Francis of Assisium. Columbus avenue and Vallejo \nstreet. \n\nKearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, to Broadwa\'^ and \nColumbus avenue, and Walk northwest a block; or Union street \ncar (Presidio &\xe2\x80\xa2 Ferries, no number), to the door. \n\nServices, (now held in the temporary wooden church ad- \njoining on the west) Sundays and holidays of obligation. \nMass at 6, 7:30 and 9 a. m. ; High Mass and sermon at \n10:30; Vespers, sermon and Benediction of the Blessed Sac- \nrament, 7:30 p. m. Daily Mass at 6:30 and 7:30 a. m. ; \nevenings devotion at 7:30. \n\nThis was the original cathedral. \n\nSt. Patrick\'s, 744 Mission street, between Third and Fourth. \n\nAny car on Mission street, or any Mission street car by trans- \nfer; or Geary street municipal line, east bound, transfer to \nThird and get off at Mission; or Kearny and Beach car. Line \nNo. 15, or Third and Kentucky car. Line 16, and get off \nat Mission; or Ellis and Ocean No. 20, to Fourth and Mission \nand Walk half a block cast. \n\nServices: Sundays, Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 a. m., \nand 12m.; Holy days, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 a. m., and 12m.; week- \ndays, 6 and 7 a, m. Evening devotions on Sundays, Holy \ndays of obligation and First Fridays, 7:45 p. m. \n\nSt. Patrick\'s also provides a night worker\'s mass at 2 a. m., \nSundays, for newspaper men and other night workers. \n\n\n\nChurches and Divine Service 125 \n\nSt Ignatius. Hayes and Shrader streets, one block from \nGolden Gate Park. \n\nHayes and Ellis car. Line No. 21 ; or McAllister No. 5 to \nShrader and rvalk tivo hlocf^s south. \n\nServices: Sunday Masses, 5:00, 5:45, 6:30, 7:30, 8:30, \n9:30, 10:30 a. m. ; Sunday evening, 715, Beads; 730, Ves- \npers; 8:00, sermon or lecture; 8:30, Benediction. Daily \nMasses, 5:00, 5:45, 6:30, 7:15 and 8:00 a. m. \n\nSt. Boniface. (German.) Golden Gate avenue, between \nJones and Leavenworth. \n\nTake any Marl^et street car to Jones and walJ^ a block \nnorth; or TurJ( and Eddy No. 4 to Jones, and if rvest bound, \ntvalk trvo blocks south, if east bound one blocl^. \n\nSunday Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 a. m. ; evening services \nat 7:30. Week day Masses at 6, 7 and 8:15. \n\nMission Dolores Church. Sixteenth and Dolores streets. \n\nTake Market street car. Line No. 8, transfer at Church to \nFillmore and Sixteenth, Line No. 22, south bound, and get off \nat Sixteenth street; or take Ocean View (Guerrero) Line No. \n10 or 26 (running on Mission street, down town) to Six- \nteenth street and walk ^ block west. \n\nMasses on Sunday at 6, 7:30, 9, 10 and 11 a. m. \nMasses are said in the new structure behind the old Mission, \nand a very beautiful new church is rising on the corner be- \nside it. \n\nNuestra Senora de Guadalupe. Broadway, between Powell \nand Mason. \n\n\'*Bay and Taylor, Powell and Market,\'\' cable to Broadway \nand Mason streets and walk half a block ^^sf; or Kearny and \nBeach Line, No. 15, to Powell and Broadway and walk half \na block Tvest. \n\nSunday services at 6:30, 7:30 and 10:30. Evening Ves- \npers at 7:30. Every day. Mass at 7 a. m. \n\n\n\n1 26 Handhoof^ for San Francisco \n\nSt. Dominic s. Pierce and Bush streets. \n\nSutter and California car. Line No. /, or Sutter and Cle- \nment. No. 2, to Pierce street and Tvalk a block north; or Fill- \nmore and Sixteenth, No. 22, or Fillmore and Valencia No. 23, \nto Bush street and Tvall^ trvo blocJ^s tvest; or California street \ncable to Pierce and ivalk two blocks south; or Turl( and \nEdd^ No. 4, or Mission and Richmond, No. 24, to Divisadero \nand Bush streets, and walk two blocks east. \n\nServices; Sundays and holy days, Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 \nand 11 a. m. ; week days at 6, 7 and 8 a. m. Evening services, \nevery evening in the year at 7:45 p. m. \n\nThis church has the largest and finest organ in the west. \n\n55. Peter and Pauls (Salesian Fathers). Grant avenue \nand Filbert street. \n\nKearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, to Filbert street and \nWalk ^^0 blocks east; or Union street line, (Presidio and Fer- \nries, no number) to Columbus avenue and Union street, and \nWalk a block ^"^ ^ half east and a block north. \n\nServices: Sundays and holy days, Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9 and \n10:30 a. m. ; Vespers and Benediction at 7:30 p. m. Wednes- \nday services, Masses from 6 to 8 a. m. Special devotions on \nFirst Fridays. \n\nSWEDENBORGIAN. \n\nSecond New Jerusalem Church. Lyon and Washington \nstreets. \n\nSutter and Jackson, Line No. 3, to Lyon street, and \nwalk half a block south; or Turk and Eddy, No. 4, to Lyon \nand Sacramento street and walk two blocks north; or Califor- \nnia street cable to Lyon street and walk three blocks north. \n\nServices at 1 1 :30 a. m., Sunday. This is one of the beauty \nspots of San Francisco. \n\nUNITARIAN. \nFirst Unitarian. Geary and Franklin streets. \nGeary Street Municipal Railroad to Franklin; or Ellis street \ncar. Line No. 20 or 21 , to O\'Farrell and Franklin and walk \n\n\n\nTheaters 127 \n\na block north; or Sutter street, Nos. /, 2 or 3, to Franklin and \nWalk two blocks south. \n\nServices at 1 1 a. m. Sundays. \n\nIn front of this church is the tomb of Thomas Starr King, \nwho was pastor during the Civil War, and whose eloquence \nin his nation\'s cause was said by Lincoln to have saved Cali- \nfornia to the Union. Tomb and church were alike removed \nto their present location from a site farther down on Geary \nstreet. \n\n\n\nTHEATERS. \n\nFew modern cities have contributed more to the advance- \nment of the stage than San Francisco, with its discriminating \ntaste, its ready rewards for what is sound and good in the \ndrama, and its cordial appreciation of its stage favorites. In \nearly days the greatest actors were drawn to California. Edwin \nBooth was content to be a barn-stormer where he could get no \nbetter houses. Lawrence Barrett and John McCullough were \nthe first managers of the old California Theater. David \nBelasco is a native of San Francisco and was stage manager of \n\'The Baldwin." M. B. Leavitt conducted the Bush street \ntheater for 1 5 years following 1 882. Al Hayman began \nhis theatrical career in San Francisco. William A. Brady \nwas born here and began his theatrical career in this city. \nBlanche Bates made her first appearance at Stockwell\'s \nTheater, in San Francisco. Edna Wallace Hopper was born \nhere and educated at the Van Ness Seminary. David War- \nfield, a native of San Francisco, worked as head usher in the \nBush street theater, and made his first appearance at the \nold Wigwam. \n\nVaudeville developed its best form in this city, and the San \nFrancisco Orpheum is the mother theater of the famous *\'Or- \npheum Circuit," which supplies vaudeville entertainment \n\n\n\n1 28 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nin Chicago, New York and a hundred other cities throughout \nthe United States; and which has affiHations all over England \nand Scotland. \n\nThe Orpheum was first built on its present site in 1887, \nby Gustav Walter, who had been successfully conducting a \nmusic hall called *\'The Fountain" in the Thurlow block, on \nKearny street, and the Germania Gardens, in the Mission. \nEthel Barry more and Sara Bernhardt have appeared on the \nOrpheum stage. \n\nThe present house was dedicated on April 1 9, 1 909. \n\nProbably the theater that stands highest today in the affections \nof San Franciscans is the Tivoli, on Eddy street near Mason. \nIt has furnished both opera bouffe and grand opera to two \ngenerations, under such circumstances of homelike simplicity and \ncomfort that it has become an intimate part of the life of \nthe city, and the reopening of the theater in its new home on \nMarch 12, 1913, with Andreas Dippel\'s Chicago Opera Com- \npany, and Tetrazzini singing Gilda in Rigoletto, was one of \nthose heart-warming events that have done so much to make \nthe new city one with the old. \n\nThe Tivoli had its origin in the old Vienna Gardens, on \nSutter street near Stockton, next to the synagogue, the Temple \nEmanu El, in the centennial year of 1876. The house had \nbeen built in Boston and shipped around the Horn in sections \nfor Judge Burritt, and afterward became the home of Dr. A. \nJ. Bowie. Here F. W. Kreling and his sons, Joe, William, \nJohn and Martin, conducted a place of entertainment, where \npeople could sip beer and smoke and enjoy "variety," long \nbefore the days of vaudeville. \n\nProspering, the Krelings wanted a larger house than the \none that had come in a ship, and built it on the Eddy street \nlot, in 1877. How the old Tivoli looked from without, you \ncan see by the bronze relief on the west wall of the vestibule \nof the present one. \n\nIn 1 895 regular grand opera seasons were instituted. In \n1903 the Tivoli moved across the corner to the old cyclo- \n\n\n\nTheaters 129 \n\nrama building rebuilt as an opera house. Here Tetrazzini \nsang Gilda to roof-raising applause, which sent her forth with \na San Francisco triumph to her credit \xe2\x80\x94 and San Francisco\'s \njudgment of her was confirmed by the world. After the fire \nshe came back to sing, as a mark of gratitude, in .the streets \nof the city that had first acclaimed her, and on the completion \nof the new Tivoli she again appeared in the role in which a \ndiscriminating San Francisco audience had recognized the rise \nof a new star. \n\nThere are no old theaters of any consequence in San Fran- \ncisco. The new structures have all been built under the most \nexacting safety regulations, and are better equipped and more \nmodern in every respect, with stout steel frames, fire-proofed \nwalls and plenty of exits. In decoration, the best of them are \nunsurpassed. \n\nThe following list will give the principal down town play- \nhouses and their locations: \n\nAlcazar. O\'Farrell street, between Powell and Mason. \nPerformances every evening; matinees Thursdays, Saturdays \nand Sundays. Standard plays are presented by a good stock \ncompany. Prices, 25 cents to $1 ; box and loge seats, $1.50. \n\nColumbia. Geary and Mason street. Performances every \nevening, with matinee Wednesdays and Saturdays. Many of \nthe country\'s leading musical and dramatic companies are \nbooked at this house. Prices vary with the character of the \nentertainment, but commonly run from 25 cents to $2. \n\nThe Cort. Ellis street near Stockton. Performances \nevery night, matinees Wednesdays and Saturdays at 2:30. \nHigh class musical and dramatic productions. Prices, 50 cents \nto $2. \n\nEmpress. Market street, between Fifth and Sixth. Vaude- \nville. Three performances daily; matinee at 2:30; evening, \n7:15 and 9:15. There are four performances on Sunday. \nPrices 1 0, 20 and 30 cents. \n\n\n\n1 30 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nOrpheum. O\'Farrell street, between Stockton and Ppwell. \nVaudeville. Performances every afternoon and evening. Prices, \n1 to 75 cents, box seats, $ I . \n\nPantages. Market street, opposite Mason. Vaudeville. \nThree performances daily; matinees at 2:30; evening, at 7:15 \nand 9:15. Four performances on Sunday. Prices, 10, 20 \nand 30 cents. \n\nSavo^. McAllister street near Market. A home of musical \ncomedy. Performances every evening; matinees Saturdays \nand Sundays. Prices, 25 cents to $1. \n\nTivoli Opera House. Eddy street, between Powell and \nMason. The home of light and grand opera, the former at \npopular prices. During the light opera season the prices are \n25, 50 and 75 cents, with box seats at $1. \n\nG. M. Anderson, of moving picture fame, is building, oppo- \nsite the Orpheum, a theater for high-class musical comedy such \nas the sort presented by the Winter Garden, in New York. \nThe best of talent will be organized into a local stock com- \npany. It will be known as the Gaiety. The prices are to be \nmoderate \xe2\x80\x94 from 25 cents to $1. \n\nPUBLIC AUDITORIUMS. \n\nThere are four auditoriums in the residence district west of \nVan Ness avenue that are the scene of gatherings too large \nfor the ordinary downtown halls. Here are their locations, \nand directions for reaching them on the cars, from the down- \ntown district. \n\nAuditorium. At Page and Fillmore streets. \nHay^es street car. Line No. 6, to Oak and Fillmore and \n"Walk a block south. \n\nColiseum. Baker street, between Oak and Fell. \nHa^es street car. Line No. 6, to Balder street. \n\nDreamland Rink- Steiner street near Post. \n\nSutter street car. Line No. 1 or 2, to Steiner street and Tvalk \n\n\n\nSight-Seeing Auto Cars 131 \n\nsouth; or Cear^ street Municipal Railway to Steiner and walk \na block north. \n\nPavilion Rinf^. 2 1 89 Sutter street, corner of Pierce. \nSutter street car. Line No. I or 2. \n\n\n\nSIGHT-SEEING AUTO CARS. \n\nSight-seeing automobiles leave Market street between Third \nand Fifth daily at 10 a. m., and 2 p. m. \n\nAt 1 p. m., they make a trip to Chinatown. \n\nThey can also be found at the Ferry and on Powell street \nnear O\'Farrell. \n\nThe daylight trip, as at present conducted, can be recom- \nmended as a comfortable way to see some of the most inter- \nesting parts of the city, such as Golden Gate Park, the Cliff \nHouse vicinity. Pacific Heights, the Presidio and the Exposi- \ntion site at Harbor View. The price is $1 a passenger, and \nthe time required is about two and a half hours. \n\n\n\nMONUMENTS AND LANDMARKS\xe2\x80\x94 THE BANK \n\nEXCHANGE . \n\nSan Francisco is a city of romance and riches and hence, \nalso of monuments. There are many fine ones that keep alive \npride in the place and its stirring history. \n\nThe Donahue monument at Bush, Battery and Market \nstreets, by the sculptor Douglas Tilden, is about on the line of \nthe original water front, the edge of the bight known as \nVerba Buena Cove, which swept around from Montgomery \nstreets at Jackson, swung across Sansome street between Cali- \nfornia and Pine, crossed the pavement surrounding the mon- \nument, just to the west of the pool, and ran thence below \nFirst street and eastward to Rincon Point, the tip of which lay \na little east of the corner of Harrison and Spear streets. \n\n\n\n132 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nTHE DONAHUE MONUMENT, MARKET STREET. \n\n\n\nThe monument will well repay a visit to it. Its bold imagery \nand fine feeling for the subject of human labor well directed are \ndistinctively western in spirit. \n\nThe cove was filled with the spoil from the grading do^vn \nof the sand hills of the city, and all east of the line we have \ndescribed is made ground. That is why on the south side \n\n\n\nMonuments and Landmarl^s 1 33 \n\nof Market the numbered streets do not begin until after the \npoint opposite the monument is passed, going westward. \n\nAt Clay and Montgomery, one of the recently erected land- \nmark bells that are supposed to indicate the route of El Camino \nReal, the Highway of the King, marks the old landing that \nwas there "when the water came up to Montgomery street." \n\nThe next monument up Market street is Lotias Fountain, \npresented to the city by Lotta Crabtree, a stage favorite of \nearly days. On the shaft is a bronze tablet, put there to com- \nmemorate one of those typically San Franciscan occasions, the \nChristmas eve of 1910, when Luisa Tetrazzini sang in the \nopen air at this point to a crowd estimated at 1 00,000, out \nof affection for the city that had shown her the first great pub- \nlic appreciation. The fountain dates from 1875. The tablet, \ndesigned by Haig Patigan, the sculptor, was unveiled March \n24, 1912. \n\nThis is the scene of an annually recurring open air music \nfestival. Chambellan, Pasquali and other great artists sang \nat this point on Christmas eve 1911 and 1912, and Kubelik, \nthe violinist, has played here. \n\nAt the corner of Mason street is another good thing by \nTilden, the so-called \'\'Native Sons Monument,\'\' dedicated \nto the Native Sons of the Golden West by former Mayor \nJames D. Phelan. It commemorates the admission of Cali- \nfornia into the Union in 1850. \n\nMore of Tilden\'s work stands at the foot of Van Ness \navenue, about opposite the Masonic Temple building. This is \nthe Soldier\'s Monument, erected by the citizens of San Fran- \ncisco to the California Volunteers in the Spanish war. \n\nAt City Hall avenue and McAllister streets stands at pres- \nent a bronze statue of Hall McAllister, "A Leader of the \nCalifornia Bar." It is by M. Earl Cummings. \n\nMarshall Square, opening from the north side of Market \nstreet opposite Eighth, to the site of the City Hall, is adorned \nby the James Lick Monument to the Pioneers, executed by \nFrank Happersberger, a San Francisco sculptor. \n\n\n\n1 34 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nThis monument is worth visiting for its fine portrayals, in \nreHef, of Western Hfe and illustrations of California history. \n\nOn the Market street side of the Lick monument is a highly \nornamented bronze cannon taken from the Spaniards at San- \ntiago de Cuba. \n\nOne of the elevations beyond the end of Market street, \nknown as Mount Oly^mpus, is surmounted by a colossal statue \nof Liberty, erected by the late Adoph Sutro. \n\nGolden Gate Park contains many fine statues. A monu- \nment to William McKinley, representing "Peace,*\' the work \nof Robert L Aitken, stands at the entrance to the Panhandle. \nAnother to Francis Scott Key, author of the Star Spangled \nBanner, just to the southeast of the Music Concourse, was \ngiven by James Lick; it is the composition of the late W. W. \nStory, the famous American sculptor. The Ball Player by \nDouglas Tilden attracts much attention. Near it is a figure \nof Robert Burns, by M. Earl Cummings. \n\nMaj. Gen. Henry W. Halleck, who was acting secretary \nof California during the military occupation of early days and \nwho became commander in chief of the United States Army \nfrom 1 862 to 1 864, is represented by a bronze bust by G. \nConrades. There is also a bust of General Grant by R. \nSchmid. \n\nThere is a life size bronze of Thomas Starr King, the San \nFrancisco clergyman that represented the cause of the Union \nduring the Civil War, not only in California but in England \nas well. It is by the famous sculptor D. C. French. \n\nJunipero Serra, with uplifted cross, father of the California \nMissions, is a commanding figure. This is by Douglas Tilden. \nThen there is the Goethe and Schiller monument, by Lauch- \nhammer, the Prayer Book Cross on the height, designed by \nErnest Coxhead, and commemorating the first English religious \nservice on the coast; the monument to Garfield, by Frank Hap- \npersberger; and the Wine Press, by Thomas Shields Clark, \nin front of the Museum; one of the most enjoyable bits of \nhumor in the Park. \n\n\n\nMonuments and Landmarks 1 35 \n\nThe Stevenson monument in Portsmouth Square, surmounted \nby the golden galleon and bearing on its face the quotation \nfrom his Christmas sermon, is the design, in general, of Bruce \nPorter, a San Francisco artist. The galleon was modeled by \nGeorge Piper. This was the first monument ever erected to \nthe author, whose memory San Franciscans have taken to \ntheir hearts since his sojourn here as of one of their native sons. \nThe inscription reads: \n\nTo Remember Robert Louis Stevenson. \n\nTo be honest, to be kind, to earn a little, to spend a little \nless \xe2\x80\x94 to make upon the whole a family happier for his pres- \nence \xe2\x80\x94 to renounce when that shall be necessary and not be \nembittered \xe2\x80\x94 to ^eep a few friends, but these without capitu- \nlation \xe2\x80\x94 above all, on the same grim condition, to k^ep friends \nwith himself, here is a task for all that a man has of fortitude \nand delicacy. \n\nPortsmouth Square (see index) was one of Stevenson\'s \nloafing places. Here he found interesting bits of the city\'s \nlife and human character, while enduring his poverty with just \nthat fortitude of which the stone now speaks and "keeping \nfriends with himself on the same grim condition" that he laid \ndown the others. \n\nIn Washington Square, between Union and Filbert, Stock- \nton and Powell streets, is one of the series of Cogswell monu- \nments, with a statue of Benjamin Franklin. \n\nA fine thing by M. Earl Cummings is the bronze figure \nof the old man drinking from his hand at the pool in the \nlittle triangle of green cut off from this park by the slant of \nColumbus avenue. \n\nIn Union Square the Dewey monument, San Francisco\'s \nColumn of Victory, by Robert I. Aitken, celebrates the battle \nof Manila Bay. \n\nIn the downtown section of the city so few old landmarks \nsurvived the fire that those which did escape are the dearer \n\n\n\n1 36 HandbooJ( for San Francisco \n\nfor their rarity. There were some residences on Russian Hill, \nsome old houses in the Fort Mason military reservation, in one \nof which Senator Broderick died of the wound he received \nin a duel with Judge Terry in 1 859 ; the Appraisers\' building \non Sansome street between Washington and Jackson; the old \nParr oil building at the northwest corner of Montgomery and \nCalifornia streets, built in 1852, of granite shaped aid squared \nin China and put up in San Francisco by Chinese workmen; \nthe Temple Emanu El, on Sutter street, whose towers once bore \nthe turnip-shaped Oriental domes that became a sort of insignia \nof San Francisco in every typical picture of the city ; St. Fran- \ncis\' church at Columbus avenue and Vallejo street, built in \n1859, and "Old St. Mary\'s" at California street and Grant \navenue, built in 1854, "0/J St. Marys,\'\' as most San Francis- \ncans affectionately call it, is the oldest church edifice in the city, \nexcept the Mission Dolores. It succeeded St. Francis\' church \nas the cathedral, and was the scene of the labors of Arch- \nbishop Alemany, whose portrait appears in one of the stained \nglass windows of the vestibule, opposite that of Padre Junipero \nSerra. Here the fine copy of Murillo\'s Immaculate Con- \nception, flanked by a St. Michael and an Annunciation, help \nproduce a most devotional atmosphere, just where the com- \nmercial part of the city meets the Chinese quarter. \n\nOn Nob Hill, in California street between Mason and \nCushman streets, is the brown stone mansion that formerly be- \nlonged to James C. Flood, the Comstock millionaire. Some- \nwhat enlarged, it is now the spacious and beautiful home of \nthe Pacific Union Club. \n\nBesides these, there is the Montgomer]) Block, on the east \nside of Montgomery street, between Merchant and Washington, \nwhich, through some strange freak of the air drafts, entirely \nescaped the flames. It dates from 1853, having been built \nby the law firm of Halleck, Peachy, Billings & Park. The \nfirst named member of the firm became distinguished later as \nMajor General Henry W. Flalleck, the original of the statue \nin Golden Gate Park. \n\n\n\nMonuments and Landmarks \n\n\n\n137 \n\n\n\n\n"TREASURE ISLAND." \n\n\n\nI 38 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nCoppas restaurant, with its black cats and Bohemians on \nthe walls, and other vagaries of the artists that foregathered \nthere, was in the southern or Merchant street corner of the \nMontgomery Block. And in the northern corner still remains \none living, organic relic, not merely of the city that was, before \nthe great fire of 1 906, but of the older mining-camp city of \nthe "fifties" \xe2\x80\x94 the Ban}^ Exchange saloon, with its old steel en- \ngravings, its pavement laid in 1 852 of marble slabs that came \naround the Horn, its walnut bar whose front moulding has been \nworn down to one smooth bevel by the coat-sleeves of the count- \nless bankers, brokers and adventurers that have rested there \nfor their social glass, its Wedgwood handled beer pumps, \nits sedate mirrors, its silver bell wine-cooler, souvenir of the \ndays when "Bell of Moscow" champagne was the favorite \ntipple of its frequenters. \n\nThis has been no common bar. In its day it was a focus \nof activity in the seething young city. It was in the heart of \ntown. William Tecumseh Sherman had a bank nearby. It \nwas while crossing the corner in front of the Bank Exchange \non May 14, 1856, that James King of William was shot down \nby James P. Casey \xe2\x80\x94 a murder that led to the uprising of the \nVigilance Committee of that year. \n\nBefore the Stock and Exchange Board was organized in \n1862, the Bank Exchange was the rendezvous of the stock \nbrokers, and here they transacted most of their business. Law- \n3\'ers, doctors, engineers, members of the professions, dropped \nin to meet the leading men of the young community and hear \nthe news of the day. \n\nBret Harte and Mark Twain knew this place well. \n\nIn later days a dark, thin-faced, quiet man came to haunt a \ncertain corner. Usual^ he stood at the west end of the bar \nwith his back against the wall, in conversation by the hour \nwith E. J. Moore, attorney for Adolph Sutro. The thin \nman was not much of a talker, but he was a grand listener, and \nhere he absorbed the lore of what he later declared to be the \nmost romantic city in America. His lodging during part of \n\n\n\nThe Old Cemeteries 1 39 \n\n\n\nthe time was just across the corner, at 8 Montgomery avenue \n\xe2\x80\x94 Mrs. Hunt\'s. You can not find it, tor the building of the \nFugazi Banca Popolare Operaia ItaHana stands on the site. \nBut that a place of so much local atmosphere and such asso- \nciations should have escaped the searching mind of Robert \nLouis Stevenson is not to be imagined. \n\nThe financial center has moved away from Washington and \nMontgomery streets. The Bank Exchange is close pressed by \nthe Latin quarter. An Italian syndicate owns the building. \nBut right at his post behind the slab of sleeve-worn walnut, \nin spite of the earthquake and fire and the changes of time, \nyou may find Duncan Nicol, with his recollections, and his \nold-time skill, and his pince-nez hung on his ear, less bar- \nkeep\' than apothecary, compounding the same tried prescriptions \nthat gladdened the ways of the past. \n\n\n\nLONE MOUNTAIN, AND THE OLD CEMETERIES \n\nFrom various heights the visitor sees, in the northern part \nof the city and about on the median line of the peninsula, a \nrounded hill, surmounted by a tall cross. On the slopes of \nLone Mountain, many of the great adventurers that built San \nFrancisco made their last camp in the west. About it, on \nell four sides, lie those dim old gardens of the dead, Calvary, \nLaurel Hill, and the Masonic and Odd Fellows cemeteries. \nSome, in places, have gone partly back to nature. Burial \nin them was prohibited by the Board of Supervisors in 1900, \nand in 1912 the Board declared its intention to order them \nvacated. But while they remain they are worth a visit for their \nassociations, their surroundings, and the softened and winsome \nbeauty that time has put upon them. \n\nLone Mountain rises to a height of 468 feet, between St. \nRose\'s avenue on the north, (one block south of Geary street), \nTurk street on the south. Masonic avenue on the east and \nParker avenue on the west, within the quadrangle formed by \n\n\n\n1 40 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nthe four old burial places. It affords one of the finest views \nof the city. To ascend, the best approach is at the south- \nwest corner, which can be reached by taking the Geary Street \nMunicipal Railrvay to Parser avenue, and walking a block, \nsouth, or the McAllister street car. No. 5, and rvall^ing a block \nnorth. The cemeteries about it can be reached by the same \ncars \xe2\x80\x94 Laurel Hill cemetery more conveniently by taking the \nCalifornia street cable to Presidio avenue, or a Sutter street \ncar. Lines I or 2, which pass the entrance. \n\nThe prospect from the top of Lone Mountain is an almost \nuninterrupted cyclorama of San Francisco. \n\nIt was of Lone Mountain that San Francisco\'s poet, Bret \nHarte, wrote: \n\nThis IS that hill of awe \n\nThat Persian Smdbad saw, \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nThe mount magnetic ; \nAnd on its seaward face, \nScattered along its base. \n\nThe wrecks prophetic. \n\n\n\nThis IS the end of all; \nSun thyself by the wall, \n\nO poorer Hindbad! \nEnvy not Sindbad\'s fame: \nHere come alike the same, \n\nHindbad and Sindbad. \n\nQalvary, the Roman Catholic cemetery, lies on the eastern \nbuttress of the hill, between Geary and Turk streets. Masonic \nand St. Joseph\'s avenues. All about it the city bears the \nstamp of perennial, striving youth; but here is a place conse- \ncrated and apart, where one feels the past; and the sweet peace \nof age. Weathered headstones totter in the shade of ancient \nwillows and cypress, and the air is perfumed with the breath \nof lupins and old Castilian roses. \n\nAt the eastern end you will find the family vault of W. S. \nO\'Brien, of the bonanza mining firm of Flood & O\'Brien; of \nWilliam Sharon, where Mrs. Sharon lies, though he is buried \n\n\n\nThe Old Cemeteries 141 \n\nin Laurel Hill ; of the Dunphys, the Shirleys, the De Laveages ; \nand the tomb of Peter Donahue, connected with such early \nindustrial enterprises as the founding of the Union Iron Works \nand what is now the Northwestern Pacific Railway, and his \nson, James Mervyn Donahue, who gave San Francisco the \nmonument to "Mechanics" that greets the visitor at Bush and \nBattery streets. \n\nEven here they offer hospitality in the city of their pride, for \none can mount by granite stairs to the roof of the Donahue \nmausoleum and get a close view of one of the most populous \nparts of San Francisco. \n\nLaurel Hill, known to the older San Franciscans as Lone \nMountain Cemetery, lies on the north flank of Lone Moun- \ntain, between California street, Presidio and Parker ave- \nnues, and the south side of the private property lying to- \nward Geary street. The California street cable line ends \nat its northeast corner, and the Sutter and Clement line. No. 2, \npasses its main entrance on Presidio avenue at the head of \nBush street. It is cpen from 7 a. m. to 5 p. m. \n\n"Lone Mountain Cemetery," as Laurel Hill is still called \nby the older San Franciscans, is peculiarly the necropolis of \nSan Francisco, and the repository of many historical data. \n\nOn stone and mausoleum are chiseled memorials of all \nstages of the city\'s life. \n\nHere is the grave of Edward Gilbert, first editor of the \n"Alta California." Near the southeast corner of the cemetery \nis a plain shaft bearing the inscription: \n\nThomas J. Nevins. The Board of Education and Citizens of San \nFrancisco unite in erecting this monument to his memory as the Founder \nof Common Schools in this City and State, and as the first Superintendent \nof Common Schools in San Francisco. \n\nHere are souvenirs of that great uprising of the "people \nin arms," the Vigilance Committee of 1856. Up Greenwood \navenue, past the lodge and just beyond the grave of Mortimer \nFulton, "Chief Engineer of the Pacific Mail Steamship, Golden \nAge," who died in 1856, is a small hill encircled with an \n\n\n\n1 42 Handbook for San Francisco \n\niron fence overgrown by its laurestina hedge, with a white \nobelisk to James King of William, whose murder by James \nP. Casey provoked the resort to extra-legal public defense. \nNear by is the grave of Col. Richardson, the victim of Charles \nCora, hanged by the Vigilantes with Casey. They hanged \nCora largely because they feared that the eloquence of his \ncounsel. Col. E. D. Baker, killed at Ball\'s Bluff during the \ncivil war, and also buried in Laurel Hill, might secure him \nan acquittal. \n\nOne tomb is worthy to be a shrine of childhood; that of \nRobert B. Woodward, the shrewd and kindly Rhode Island \nYankee that made a fortune providing rough comfort for miners \nand ranchers in the old *\'What Cheer House ^ at Sacramento \nand Leidesdorff streets, and put a large part of it into a fairy- \nland for children in "the Mission." Old timers that got \ntheir money\'s worth at his homely hotel, and San Franciscans of \nthis generation whose childhood recollections are the brighter \nfor memories of Woodward\'s Gardens will recall his name \nwith affection, though both gardens and hotel are gone. \n\nHere also is the tomb of Dr. Hugh H. Toland, founder of \nToland Medical College, which he "transferred by uncon- \nditional gift to the University of California, and thereby estab- \nlished its Department of Medicine," and of Elias Cooper, \n"who founded Cooper Medical College, A. D. 1872"; now \nthe medical department of Stanford University. \n\nThos. O. Larkin, Silas W. Sanderson, Lorenzo Sawyer, \nHorace Hawes, A. A. Sargent, Hall McAllister, John F. \nMiller, are some of the familiar names in politics and the law. \nCol. John W. Geary is buried here, the last Alcalde and first \nMayor of San Francisco. The family tomb of Milton S. \nLatham, one of California\'s early governors is one of the finest \nin this cemetery. \n\nCapt. Joseph L. Folsom, who first suggested the name of \n"San Francisco" for the little hamlet on the bay shore, is \nburied in Laurel Hill. Arthur Page Brown, architect of \nthe Ferry building, a man that profoundly affected the style \n\n\n\nThe Old Cemeteries 143 \n\n\n\nof architecture in San Francisco, found his last resting place \nhere. There are names well known in finance, such as William \nH. Dimond and Peder Sather; and Isaac Friedlander, whose \nmonument bears a sheaf of wheat in token of the part he played \nin the world movement of the cereal when San Francisco saw \nthe grain ships leave her port at the average rate of one a day. \nHere again are great names of the Comstock epoch: William \nC. Ralston, who founded the Bank of California and built \nthe Palace Hotel, and William Sharon, United States Senator, \nand genius of ore milling; and Senator Fair, partner of John \nW. Mackay. \n\nOn a knoll amid the more important mausoleums is a mon- \nument to Senator David C. Broderick, that "Senator of the \nFifties" who was killed in a duel with Judge Terry in early \ndays, and over whose bier Col. E. D. Baker pronounced a \nnotable funeral oration. The western spirit of democracy \nspeaks from the stone, which bears the name of Broderick \nbetween the words "Mechanic" and "Senator." \n\nAt the far western end are German, Scandinavian and \nFrench plats ; and the graves of three Japanese sailors, to which \nthe march of events in the Pacific have given a peculiar his- \ntorical interest. The headstone of the central one reads: \n\nIn memory of Me-Nay-Kee-Tchee, who died May 20, 1860. A \nJapanese sailor attached to Steam Corvette "Candinmarrah," the first Jap- \nanese vessel that visited any foreign port. This monument is erected by \norder of the Emperor of Japan, by Charles Wolcott Brooks. \n\nOdd Fellon)s Cemetery lies directly west of Lone Mountain, \nbetween Parker avenue and Arguello boulevard, Turk and \nGeary streets. The columbarium is a beautiful structure, in a \nbuoyant and joyous spirit, with a fine dome, good mosaics, \nand an interior illuminated by stained glass windows some \nof which are of a high order of merit. The two galleries of \nalcoves are designated, on the first tier, by the Greek names \nof the winds, and on the second by the names of the constel- \nlations as they appeared at the hour of the dedication of the \nbuilding. The architect was B. J. S. Cahill. \n\n\n\n1 44 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nMasonic Cemetery lies south of Lone Mountain, between \nTurk and Fulton streets. Masonic and Parker avenues. There \nare some fine mausoleums here, especially the Wieland tomb \nin the southwest corner. A humble grave contains the dust \nof Emperor Norton, that strange figure of the older city, whose \nonly empire was in his own touched brain and the hearts of his \nSan Francisco subjects. \n\nBy far the most quaint and interesting object in this en- \nclosure is the grey granite pyramid, about eight feet in height, \ntoward the southeast corner, marking the grave of Hugh Whit- \ntell, pioneer. Its naive inscriptions read: \n\nAll you that chance this grave to see, \n\nIf you can read English may learn by me. \n\nI traveled, read and studied, mankind to know. \n\nAnd what most interested them here below. \n\nThe present or the future state and love of power. \n\nEnvy, fear, love or hate occupied each wakeful hour. \n\nAll would teach, but few would understand. \n\nThe greater part know little of either God or Man, \n\nLove one another, a very good maxim all agreed. \n\nLearn, labor and wait, if you would succeed. \n\nIn the five divisions of the world I have been. \n\nThe cities of Peking and Constantinople I have seen, \n\nOn the first railway I rode before others were made, \n\nSaw the first telegraph operate, so useful to trade. \n\nIn the first steamship the Atlantic I crossed. \n\nSuffered six shipwrecks where lives were lost. \n\nIn the first steamer to California I did sail. \n\nAnd went to China by the first Pacific Mail, \n\nAfter many endeavors my affairs to fix, \n\nA short time I will occupy less than two by six. \n\n\n\nMISSION DOLORES. \n\nLocated on the west side of Dolores street, between Sixteenth \nand Seventeenth. Open every day from 1 a. m. to 5 p. m. \n\nMarket street line. No. 8, transfer at Church street to Fill- \nmore and Sixteenth line. No. 22, and get off at Sixteenth street. \n\nThis is San Francisco\'s only very old building, interesting \n\n\n\nMission Dolores \n\n\n\n45 \n\n\n\nas a memorial of the first white men on the peninsula and \ninteresting also for some of the graves in the little vine-tangled \ncemetery under its south wall. \n\nThe Mission was established in 1 776, the year of the \nDeclaration of Independence, no echo of which, we may sup- \npose, reached it for years, and then merely as an affair of \n\n\n\n\nORIENTAL SECTION PORTOLA PARADE, PASSING MISSION DOLORES. \n\n\n\na foreign people. Junipero Serra blessed and consecrated it \nas the northernmost of the California missions ; although others \nv/ere established at San Rafael and Sonoma several years \nafterward. \n\nThe building itself dates from 1 782. The walls are four \nfeet thick, built of adobe, the sun-dried bricks of the Spanish \npioneers, as the deep embrasures of the windows show. Two \ncircumstances indicate that it must have been considered the \nmost important of the niissions ; its main altar is the finest among \n\n\n\n146 HandbooI( for San Francisco \n\nthem all ; and it bears the name of the founder of the Franciscan \norder, San Francisco d\' Assisi, to which order had been \nentrusted the civilizing of California. \n\nAgainst the northern wall is a large painted screen, built in \nsections, symbolizing the doctrine of the Holy Eucharist. This \nscreen was placed in front of the altar at the celebration of the \nEucharist, once a year. Near the entrance, set in the red- \nbaked tiles of the floor, is the marble slab that marks the tomb \nof the Noe family, Spanish grantees and grandees of the days \n"before the Gringo came." \n\nThere are three bells in the facade, hanging by ropes of \nplaited rawhide ; two are cracked, and one has lost its tongue. \nThese, though mute, are the Mission carillon of which Bret \nHarte wrote: \n\nBells of the past, whose long-forgotten music \n\nStill fills the wide expanse, \nT ingeing the sober twilight of the present \n\nWith color of romance, \n\nI hear you call, and see the sun descending \n\nOn rock, and wave and sand. \nAs down the Coast the Mission voices blending \n\nGirdle the heathen land. \n\nBorne on the swell of your long waves receding, \n\nI touch the farther Past, \xe2\x80\x94 \xe2\x80\xa2 \nI see the dying glow of Spanish glory, \n\nThe sunset dream and last! \n\nBefore me rise the dome-shaped Mission towers, \n\nThe white Presidio ; \nThe swart commander in his leathern jerkin. \n\nThe priest in stole of snow. \n\nOnce more I see Portola\'s cross uplifting \n\nAbove the setting sun; \nAnd past the headland, northward, slowly drifting, \n\nThe freighted galleon. \n\nThe ceiling and ceiling beams retain the decorations of red \nand white paint the Indians put on them over 1 00 years ago. \n\nWithin a short while after its founding the Mission had 814 \nIndian communicants. The Rev. Walter Colton, in his "Three \n\n\n\nMission Dolores \n\n\n\n147 \n\n\n\nYears in California," says that in 1825 its wealth had grown \nto 76,000 head of cattle, 950 tame horses, 2000 brood mares, \n84 fine stud, 820 mules, 79,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke \nof oxen 18,000 bushels of wheat and barley, $33,UUU in \nmerchandise and $25,000 in cash. Today all that the residents \nof the neighborhood know of Indians is what they have seen \n\n\n\n\nINTERIOR OF THE MISSION DOLORES. \n\n\n\nWeidner, photo. \n\n\n\nof them in Wild West shows, or read behmd the lid of the \ndesk in school. Very few representatives of the Spanish fami- \nlies of the valley are left; and the old establishment finds itself \npressed upon by such modernity as the ball park, the High \nSchool, the Swedish Tabernacle and the Norwegian Lutheran \n\nchurch. ... ^ , . \xe2\x80\x9e \n\nAmong the myrtle vines and tottering willows of the cemetery \nare three graves of especial interest for their association with \nSan Francisco history. \n\n\n\n1 48 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nOne is the tomb of Don Luis Antonio Arguello, first gov- \nernor of Alta California under the Mexican regime; born in \nSan Francisco, in 1 784, and brother to that Concepcion de \nArguello whose sad romance with the Russian, Resanov, Bret \nHarte and Gertrude Atherton have embalmed in verse and \nstory. \n\nAnother is "Sacred to the memory of James P. Casey, \nwho departed this life May 22, 1856; aged 27 years." The \ninscription in no way discloses the grim fact that on that date \nhe was hanged by the Vigilance Committee at Fori Gunnybags \non Sacramento street, for the murder of James King of William. \n\nAnd another stone is "Sacred to the memory of James \nSullivan, who died by the hands of the V. C. May 31, 1856, \naged 45 years." This inscription is not literally true, although \nit might have been, for this was "Yankee Sullivan," world\'s \nchampion pugilist of his day, who suffered the solitude of his \nplank cell in that same Fort Gunnybags, and heard the grim \nconferences, and the midnight alarms, and the guards moving \nto and fro, and the prisoners brought in and taken out again, \nuntil terror bested him and he killed himself. \n\nThe great parade of the Portola festival of 1909 was \nhalted before the Mission, while the modern representative of \nDon Caspar de Portola saluted the modern representatives of \nthe Padres. \n\nIn the parked space in front of the Mission is a bell marking \nthe road as El Camirio Real, the "Highway of the King" ot \nSpain. It is the road of the Franciscan monks and the sol- \ndiers of Portola, the route of travel from the Mission at San \nDiego. Up this long way they came, in cassock and in cuera, \nin cowl and morion, advancing the sway of the Cross and the \nfrontiers of the King, through the Salinas valley, by Monterey \nand up the San Francisco peninsula, and their route is dotted \nwith missions \xe2\x80\x94 San Gabriel, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, \nSan Miguel Archangel, San Antonio de Padua, Soledad, San \nCarlos, Carmel, Santa Clara, San Juan Bautista, Santa Cruz \nand many more. The sign board declares that this is the \n\n\n\nGolden Gate Park \n\n\n\n49 \n\n\n\n"Mision de los Dolores, dedicated to San Francisco de Assisi, \nOct. 9, 1 776." Here, then, we have the origin of the name \nand the beginning of San Francisco, almost at the end of the \nnorthward march of the Padres. \n\n\n\n\nCHILDREN\'S PLAYGROUXD, GOLDEN GATE PARK. \n\nGOLDEN GATE PARK. \n\nFrom Stanyan street, three miles westward to the Pacific \nOcean, and from Lincoln Way on the south 2,500 feet north- \nward to Fulton street; with a "Panhandle" a block wide, be- \ntween Oak and Fell streets, carrying the Main Drive eastward \neight blocks to Baker street. \n\nTurk &\' Edd^ car. Line No. 4; McAllister No. 5, Ha-^es \nNo. 6; Haight No. 7 ; or Geary Street Municipal Railroad, \nmarked A. \n\nThis is the great park of the United States, the crowning \nachievement in providing the people of a city with gardens \nand forests and lakes and streams and waterfalls of their own. \n\n\n\n^0 Handbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nON STOW LAKE, IN GOLDEN GATE TARK. ^\'\'^^\'^\' ^^*\'^\'\'" \n\n\n\nGolden Gate Park 151 \n\n\n\nwithin city limits. Nothing Hke it in extent and in loveliness \nexists in any other American municipality. \n\nThere are 1013 acres in this Park, and the area contains \nlong drives, walks, lakes with row boats, hills with fine pros- \npects from their summits, nine baseball diamonds, six baseball \nfields, a dozen tennis courts, handball courts, a bowling green, \nthe most completely equipped children\'s playground to be found \nanywhere, a thirty-acre stadium, with a trotting horse speed- \nway 60 feet wide and an infield for all sorts of field sports; \nbear, deer, buffalo, kangaroo, elk, Alaskan moose, the largest \nwindmill in the world, the only vessel that ever sailed through \nthe Northwest Passage, and thousands of varieties of plant life, \nfrom the Pulu fern of Hawaii to the Norway maples that \ntake on autumn tints in spring \xe2\x80\x94 for the Park corresponds and \nexchanges with every botanical garden of any size in the world. \n\nHere one sees the healthy life and leisure of the community. \nSan Franciscans use their park. The drives swarm with fine \nequipages, fast motors, and ruddy-faced lovers of good horse- \nflesh bound for the speedway in wire-wheeled sulkies. Youth \nrides the bridle paths. Groups of children are rolling and \ntumbling about the lawns, for there is not a "Keep-off-the \nGrass" sign in the whole thousand acres. \n\nThe Main Drive, including the part in the Panhandle is \n4^/2 miles long. There is usually a surrey near the Stanyan \nstreet entrance that will take you around the drives at the \nrate of a dollar an hour, and another at the Eighth avenue \ngateway. Automobiles for Park service are to be had from \nany of the downtown hotels, or auto livery stands. But if you \nwould see the Park properly, walk. Take a day for it and you \nwill wish the time were longer. \n\nEntering by the Main Drive from the Panhandle, you pass, \non your right, the pretty stone and tile-roofed lodge of the \nsuperintendent, John McLaren, to whom is due most of the \ncredit for the transformation of the sand dunes into this place \nof beauty. McLaren is recognized abroad as one of the great \npark managers of the world, and has been put in charge of \n\n\n\n1 52 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nthe landscape gardening for the Panama-Pacific Exposition. \n\nThe Conservatories are worth a visit for they contain a great \ncollection of orchids, palms, ferns, water lilies, cycads, lycopods \nctnd a profusion of flowering things too numerous to name. \n\nNortheastward of the Conservatories is the Arizona Gar- \nden, of cactus and yucca and flowering aloe. There is usually \na "century plant" in bloom here. \n\nThe North Ridge drive swings around from behind the \nconservatories, and opposite its junction with the Main Drive \nthe trail takes ofl" to the left, for the Aviary. Here are gor- \ngeous pheasants, cockatoos, Alaskan ptarmigan, great Cali- \nfornia eagles and a riot of winged life. \n\nBUFFALO HERD. \n\nBeyond the A.viary, southwestwardly, is the Buffalo pad- \ndock, containing what "Buffalo Bill" declared to be one of the \nfinest herds of American bison in existence. \n\nSouth of the Buffalo paddock, turn back on the Main Drive \nto the eastward. At this end of the Park, joined by winding \nroads, are grouped the tennis courts, the baseball grounds, the \ncroquet grounds, the bowling green, and the children\'s quarters \nwith the playground apparatus, donkey drives and other juve- \nnile delights. Simple refreshments are provided here at low \nprices. \n\nLake Alvord with its fountain is opposite the Haight and \nStanyan street entrance to the Park. \n\nThe Bear garden contains some fine specimens. Nearby, to \nthe westward, is the deer park, and farther on, the Arboretum. \nBeyond that, still further westward, is the large glen where \nrange fine herds of elk, the noble animal showing here in his \nperfection, for California is his natural home. \n\nEveryone should visit the Memorial Museum. For descrip- \ntion, see index. \n\nBroad steps lead down to the floor of Concert Valley, where, \nin the elmy shades before the Temple of Music, the Sunday \nafternoon crowds hear selections by a fine band. Concerts \nbegin here at 2 p. m. on Sundays and holidays. \n\n\n\nGolden Gate Parl( \n\n\n\n53 \n\n\n\nThe Temple of Music is the gift of Claus Spreckels. \n\nIn the Japanese Tea Garden have been exercised the arts \nof generations of garden lovers. Tiny rivulets, intricately \ncramped and baffled in their course, make tinkling water- \nfalls, and then quiet down into turbid little lakes crossed \nby quaint bridges and stepping-stones. About their margins \n\n\n\n\nA BIT OF JAPAN, IN GOLDEN GATE PARK. \n\nstand Buddha lanterns of stone and pottery, and old bronze \ncranes forever peering for fish. Odd-looking Asiatic pines and \ncedars stretch level arms above. Trees, dwarfed in porcelain \njars, have been bent back, bound down, contorted, distorted, \nartificialized into strange organic pictures and living ornament. \nIf it is Spring, you will catch some of the wonder of the \nCherry Blossom festival of Nippon; and with the cherry blos- \nsoms will be those of the flowering quince, peach and plum, \ncultivated not for their fruit but for the dazzling bloom that \nsets thick on every bough. \n\n\n\n1 54 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nStow Lake, beyond the Japanese garden, is not only good \nlandscape gardening, but quite remarkable engineering. It \nconsists of a broad sheet of water poured around the base of \nStrawberry Hill, 428 feet high, which is thereby turned into \nan island, accessible by two bridges. There is a boat house \nat the lake\'s western end, where boats can be hired at a nom- \ninal charge. Two piers here are used by the San Francisco \nFly-Casting club. \n\nSwans glide on the waters, and during the winter months \nthere may be a thousand old emerald-headed mallard drakes \nand their sedately garbed mates poking about among the lily \npads, secure from the gunner and making fine weather of it. In \nspring the mother ducks will tow fleets of little ones around the \nlake after them. \n\nFrom the top of Strawberry Hill the Farallone Islands can \noften be seen. \n\nHUNTINGTON FALLS. \n\nQuail abound, and little jewel-eyed rabbits. At the east- \nern end of the hill are Huntington Falls, which tumble from a \nreservoir near the top. Amid the spray at the foot of their \ndescent, in a singularly beautiful nook, grow magnolias, rock \nmaples, and tree ferns. \n\nDirectly north of Stow Lake boat-house, on a bluff over- \nlooking the Main Drive, stands the Pra\'^er Book Cross, of \nancient Celtic design. It is a massive piece of masonry, forty \nfeet high, and was erected at the expense of the late George \nW. Childs of the Philadelphia Public Ledger, under the aus- \npices of the Episcopal Diocese of Northern California, to \ncommemorate the first religious service in the English language \non the Pacific Coast ; held by Drake\'s chaplain in 1 5 79 on the \nshore of Drake\'s Bay, north of the Golden Gate. \n\nNothing could execeed the delicate beauty of Llo^d Lake, \nwith its graveled margins and flowering banks, its Portals of \nthe Past flanked by Irish yews, and reflected from its shining \nsurface. It is just on your right, near the Main Drive as you \ntravel westward. \n\n\n\nGolden Gate Park ^^^ \n\n"^ The doorway belonged to the A. N. Towne residence, on \nNob Hill. \n\nOne can leave the Main Drive beyond the first bend west \nof Lloyd Lake, take the bridle path to the left and reach the \nStadium, where games and races are held. \n\nThe bridle path will take you back to the Main Drive near \nSpreckels Lake, a broad and fine sheet of water, where one \ncan see regattas of model yachts. \n\nFollowing the Main Drive still westward one emerges on \nthe Great Highway, between one of the Dutch windmills and \nthe historic sloop Gjoa, with the U. S. Life Saving Station \nin the corner just to the northward. \n\nTHE LARGEST WINDMILL. \n\nThis windmill at the northwest corner of the Park, is the one \nfirst constructed. It cost $25,000 and has a capacity of 30,- \n000 gallons an hour in a fresh breeze. Its model is the type \nused in Holland. The water pumped is fresh, from a strong \nflow seaward under the Park and the lands adjacent, and the \nsails lift it into Stow Lake. \n\nThe other Dutch windmill at the southwest corner of the \nPark, is the largest ever built. Samuel G. Murphy gave $20,- \n000 to construct and equip it. Its two arms are 1 1 4 feet \nlong, or 57 feet from center to tip; of Oregon pine, two feet \nthick in the middle and eight inches at the ends. It pumps \n40,000 gallons an hour. \n\nThe object of main interest at the west end of the Park \nis the sloop Gjoa (pronounced Yoah) nested in rock and pro- \ntected by an iron fence, just inside the Great Highway. This \nis the only vessel that ever sailed through the Northwest Pass- \nage, having been navigated on that occasion by Capt. Roald \nAmundsen, discoverer of the South Pole, who presented her \nto San Francisco in care of the Park Commissioners on June \n16, 1909. \n\nWe have now traversed the Park in a general way, from \none end to the other and indicated its most conspicuous fea- \n\n\n\n56 \n\n\n\nHandboof^ for San Francisco \n\n\n\ntures. But some of its greatest beauty is in its inconspicuous \nones. If you wander back afoot you will discover for yourself \nmore charm and delight than we could ever tell you. It is a \n"miracle of rare device" and growing more beautiful with every \nday\'s work done for its improvement ; the particular pride of \nthe people of San Francisco, the greatest park in America, \none of the great parks of the world. \n\n\n\n\nTREE FERNS IN GOLDEN GATE PARK. \n\nGOLDEN GATE PARK MEMORIAL MUSEUM \nAND ART GALLERY. \n\nSituated in Golden Gate Park, south of the Tenth avenue \nentrance. Open from 1 a. m., to 4 p. m. ; and on Saturdays, \nSundays and holidays until 5 p. m. Admittance free. \n\nTurk &\xe2\x80\xa2 Edd^ car. Line No. 4, to terminus at Eighth avenue \nand Fulton street; or McAllister street car. Line No. 5 to same \npoint; or Geary Street Municipal Railroad to Tenth avenue \nentrance. \n\n\n\nMemorial Museum and Art Gallery \n\n\n\n57 \n\n\n\nIf you enter at Eighth avenue, turn to the right, and walk \nin the direction of the Music Stand, past the monuments to \nStarr King, Junipero Serra and General Grant. The Museum \nis in. the Egyptian temple, among the palm trees, on the right. \nIf you enter from the Geary Street Municipal road, at Tenth \navenue, go to the left, and pass under the big stone bridge. \n\nThis museum is the best possible monument to the public \n\n\n\n\nMEMOIilAL MUSEUM, GOLDEN GATE PARK. \n\n\n\nspirit of the people of San Francisco. It has never had a pur- \nchasing fund, and yet, beginning as a small collection bought \nwith proceeds of the California Midwinter International Expo- \nsition, held in the Park in 1 894, it has grown by loan and gift \nuntil it comprises works of art and specimens of the crafts \nvalued at many million dollars, and relics and documents that \nare beyond all price. \n\nIt has a large natural history collection. Its art gallery \ncontains authentic works by Leonardo da Vinci, Dupre, Dau- \n\n\n\n1 58 HandbooJ^ for San Francisco \n\nbigny, Millet; and copies of some fine works of old masters. \n\nA history of San Francisco could almost be written from \nthe contents of its Pioneer HalU brought together by the in- \ndustry of the curator. Prof. George H. Barron. \n\nThere are priceless collections of ancient oriental carvings. \nThere are relics of Napoleon that can not be found elsewhere. \nThere are ethnological exhibits from the South Pacific and from \nAlaska that could hardly have been collected in so short a time \nat any other city than this focus of Pacific trade. \n\nThree thousand people, at this writing, are visiting the build- \ning on week days, and over 25,000 on Sundays. \n\nThe Natural History collection is in the upper galleries. \nDon\'t fail to see the cases of butterflies, moths and birds. To \nthe right, on the ground floor, are the Colonial Rooms, and to \nthe left Pioneer Hall, with portraits and mementoes of the \nPioneers, and with a complete set of paintings of the Missions \nof California. \n\nStatuary Hall contains some beautiful sculptures by Ran- \ndclph Rogers, and W. W. Story. The latter\'s "Saul" is much \nadmired. \n\nIn the Church Room are carvings, shrines, tabernacles, and \na slipper of Pope Pius IX. \n\nThe BasJ^et Room contains a great collection of Indian \nbasketry. \n\nThe Mineral Room is extremely interesting, as one would \nexpect in the leading mining state. \n\nThe Art Galleries contain fine portrayals of California sub- \njects, by such local artists as Keith, Thomas Hill, Gamble, \nCadenasso, Julian Rix, Theodore Wores, Lucia Matthews, \nArthur Matthews, Xavier Martinez, Charles Rollo Peters, \nOscar Kunauth, M. Evelyn McCormack, Joseph Raphael, \nE. G. Stanson, Piazzoni, Tavernier, Neuhaus, Jules Pages and \nmany more that found a peculiar stimulus in California condi- \ntions and scenes. \n\nThe room farthest west, of the art galleries, contains some \ncelebrated canvases \xe2\x80\x94 "A Saint at Prayer" by Leonardo da \n\n\n\nMemorial Museum and Art Gallery \n\n\n\n159 \n\n\n\n\nIX STATUARY HALL, MEMOIUAL MUSEUM. \n\nVinci; a landscape by Charles Francois Daubigny and a \n"Twilight" by Jules Dupre, and between them hangs a paint- \ning of sheep by Jean Francois Millet. \n\nThere are fine tapestries and ancient furniture in the Tapeslr}} \nRoom. The Armor Room illustrates the evolution of modern \narms, and some of the antique armor here is very beautiful. \n\nOriental Hall contains some of the most curious and beau- \ntiful objects to be found. In addition to exquisite Chinese, \nJapanese and East Indian works of art, there is the lacquered \nsaddle presented by the Mikado to General Grant; and high \non the south and west walls an object of great interest and \naffection to San Franciscans: the great Chinese processional \ndragon borne in parades and festivals on the heads of half a \nhundred swaying Chinese, before the days of the Chinese \nRepublic. Its last appearance was in the Portola parade. \n\nEgyptian Hall, Textile Hall, and the room devoted to \nCeramics are all very interesting. \n\nThe Royal Bavarian Pavilion contains the Jewel Holly the \nceiling of which is modeled on one in the royal palace at \nMunich. The carved rock crystals, oriental jade scepters and \ndagger handles, and other bits of art work are no less than fas- \ncinating. \n\nAt the entrance to the Napoleon Room, which contains \nmany authentic relics of the Emperor, is the gold medal \n\n\n\n1 60 Handbool( for San Francisco \n\npresented to San Francisco by the Republic of France to \ncommemorate the rebuilding of the city. \n\n\n\nTHE SAN FRANCISCO INSTITUTE OF ART. \n\nSituated at the southeast corner of California and Mason \nstreets, on the former site of the Hopkins mansion. \n\nPowell, California or Sacramento street cars. \n\nOpen daily, except Sundays, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Ad- \nmittance free on Tuesdays and Saturdays; on other days, 25 \ncents. \n\nThe galleries offer a treat to art lovers. There are over \n300 paintings, statues and other works of art in the collection. \nAttendance at the Institute of Art and the School of Design \nhere conducted by the San Francisco Art Association is among \nthe largest at institutions of the kind. The Hopkins mansion \nwas deeded to the Regents of the University of California in \ntrust for the Art Association by Edward F. Searles of Methuen, \nMass., and became known as the Mark Hopkins Institute \nof Art of the University of California. It was destroyed by \nthe conflagration of 1 906, but within little more than a year, the \nAssociation succeeded in erecting a building on the old foun- \ndations, and reopened the school with all its departments. In \nview of the fact that the memorial buildings of the Mark Hop- \nkins Institute had been obliterated, it was decided to call it \nthereafter the San Francisco Institute of Art. \n\nAmong the more notable attractions of the galleries is an \nunusual collection by the German painters of the last century, \nincluding Piloty\'s painting of "Wallenstein on his Way to the \nCastle of Egger" ; "Portrait of the Artist," by Franz von Len- \nbach; two admirable examples of Schreyer\'s "Arab Horse- \nmen"; and others by Wagner, Weber and Liebermann. \n\nThe French painters are represented by several drawings \nand water colors, the work of such famous artists as Berne- \nBellecour; Rosa Bonheur, who is represented by a fine paint- \n\n\n\nMuseum of Anthropology 161 \n\ning of a *\'Lioness and Cubs"; Meissonier, De Neuville and \nMillet. There are two landscapes in oil by Pelouse, an ex- \nample of Van Marke\'s cattle, and another by Troyon; the \n"Call to Prayer" by Gerome, and the "Captives" by Constant. \n\nThe most important accession to the museum is the Emanuel \nWalter collection, which came in the nature of a bequest from \nEmanuel Walter, and represents his gleanings through Europe. \nThe catalogue shows a landscape by Constable, three pieces \nby Corot, a battle piece by Camphausen, a landscape by Chin- \ntreuil, a head by Van Kaulbach, and other pieces by Bou- \nguereau, Alma-Tadema, Jean Francois Millet, Gustave Dore, \nLandseer, L\'Hermitte, and many more of note. \n\nPaintings by such Californians as Keith, Dickman, Julian \nRix and Thomas Hill, including Arthur Matthews\' fine his- \ntorical piece, the "Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco by \nPortola," have been presented by Mrs. Benjamin F. Avery, \nMrs. Phoebe A. Hearst, Hon. James D. Phelan, Mr. Edward \nF. Searles and others. \n\nThe building is temporary. The Institute is to have its \npermanent home in the civic center. (See index.) \n\n\n\nMUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY (THE HEARST \nCOLLECTIONS.) \n\nSituated in the westerly building of the Affiliated Colleges \nof the University of California. Admittance free. Open \nfrom 10 a. m., to 4 p. m., daily except Monday. The Affil- \niated Colleges are on Parnassus avenue opposite Second and \nThird avenues, with a grand outlook northward across the \nPark and the Golden Gate. \n\nHa\\)es street car. Line No. 6. \n\nThis is the largest museum of its kind west of Chicago, and \none of the most complete anthropological collections in the \n\n\n\n62 \n\n\n\nHandbool^ for San Francisco \n\n\n\nworld. Its existence is due almost entirely to the munificence \nof Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst, who laid out over a million dol- \nlars assemblmg it. \n\nFrom Egypt, Greece, Italy and Peru and from all Cali- \nfornia, there have been brought together over 75,000 objects \nillustrating "Man and His Work." Costume, habitation, imple- \nments, ornament, arms and armor, processes and practices of \n\n\n\n\nAFFILIATED COLLEGES, ACROSS GOLDEN GATE PARK. \n\nmen primitive and civilized, from rearing children to dispos- \ning of the dead, all find exemplification here, and the museum \nadministration has adopted the device of giving free Sunday and \nholidays afternoon lectures at 3 o\'clock, to make the under- \nstanding of the subject more general. \n\nThese lectures are unique. So also is the "revolving ex- \nhibit" of articles from different departments, on which the lec- \ntures are based, and which are changed every two months. \n\nThe present value of the collection is in the neighborhood of \n$5,000,000. It has been brought together out of the labors \n\n\n\nMuseum of Anthropology 1 63 \n\nof such practical archeologlsts as Dr. Reisner, Max Uhle, and \nDr. Alfred Emerson, and is under the care of Prof. A. L. \nKroeber. \n\nThe main halls are the Creel^ Hall, the Peruvian Hall, the \nRevolving Exhibit Hall, the Egyptian Hall, which is also the \nauditorium, seating about 125 people; and the California \nIndian Hall, which is the largest of all and contains what is \nprobably the most complete collection of Indian basl^etr}) in \nexistence, including fish traps, storage baskets, head dresses \nand other rare and interesting examples of Indian weaving. \n\nThe California Indian Hall contains, besides the basketry, \nsome fine redwood canoes, and the elk-horn wedges with which \nthe primitive workmen split and dug them out. In all the \ncases hang sm.all maps of California showing the location of the \ntribes represented by the different articles. On the shores \nof San Francisco bay there have been over 450 shell mounds, \nthe kitchen middens of Indians that lived here 3,000 years ago. \nThese also have yielded their evidence of life, manners and \nconditions as they then existed. \n\nThere are beautiful specimens of ceramics from Greece and \nItaly, with bits of sculpture, bronze ornaments and pieces \nof bronze armor of the classic age. The Peruvian room con- \ntains implements not found elsewhere, and a good collection \nof Peruvian mummies and mummy jars. There is a singing \nbird made of clay. \n\nTo make this museum the more complete, there is connected \nwith it a living example of an "uncontaminated" savage, in the \nperson of Ishi, the Yana Indian from Tehama county. Ishi is \nthe last of a vanished tribe, and has carried into the environ- \nment of a modern city the arts that men were compelled to use \nbefore civilization touched them. Other Indians build fires \nand light their pipes with parlor matches. Ishi uses the friction \nmethod, and you can see him at it, and understand how our \ncave-dwelling ancestors had to slave for the roughest necessi- \nties. \n\n\n\n1 64 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nProbably there are very few Indians left in the country that \ncan make a neat arrow-head or spear-head from a piece of \nflint. Ishi not only flakes arrow heads from obsidian, but even \nexercises his ancient art on such a refractory material as plate \nglass, chipping it into slender blades and long points for spear- \ning fish. He has also built a dwelling in the grounds to show \nhow it is done \xe2\x80\x94 a wigwam of lodge poles and leaves. Ishi \nis permanently attached to the museum staff, and exhibits his \nskill for the edification of visitors. \n\nThis is an extremely valuable museum in an educational \nway, and contains a great mass of material not classified, from \nthe South Seas, Alaska and other far places. \n\n\n\nCALIFORNIA DEVELOPMENT BOARD; OFFICE. \nLECTURE ROOM AND EXHIBITION HALL. \n\nLocated in the Ferry building, foot of Market street. Open \nfrom 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Entrance free. Visitors welcome. \n\nTake an^ car dorvn Market, Mission, Clay or Union street. \n\nHere is probably the finest exhibit of fruits to be found. \nCalifornia is a great mineral state, but its orchards alone pro- \nduce annually more wealth than all its mines, oil wells, quar- \nries and cement plants \xe2\x80\x94 over $97,000,000. Its vineyards \nyielded, in 1912, $26,000,000 more. In the same year it \ngrew over $ 1 46,000,000 worth of general farm and garden \nproducts, exclusive of the dairy output. Its forest products \nare worth about $30,000,000 annually. Olives and olive oil \ngave more than $2,360,000 in 1912. And for size, quality \nand perfection of appearance the samples on display in the \nexhibit of the Development Board are unrivaled. \n\nThe \'*pi"ocessing" of fruit in transparent liquids so that it can \nbe displayed in all its ripe perfection originated in California, \nand is understood by but a few experts here. The result of \ntheir scientific skill can be seen at its best in this exhibition hall. \nThe wealth and diversity of the displays are bewildering. \n\n\n\nCalifornia Development Board 1 65 \n\nThirty-six counties send their finest examples of apples, peaches, \nprunes, nectarines, oranges, olives, pears, apricots, melons, \ngrapes, nuts, corn, potatoes, beets, and similar products \xe2\x80\x94 a \nwider range, owing to the mildness of the California climate \nover a great sweep of territory, than any other state in the \nUnion can exhibit. \n\nThe samples are shown in large glass jars or urns, exactly \nas they grow. Even alfalfa plants have been thus embalmed, \nso that their size and structure appear as they would in the \nfield. \n\nThe object near the entrance, which nobody can pass without \nexamination, is the large physical relief map of California. It is \nI 8 feet long and seven feet wide, and spreads before you all \nthe topographical features of the state, with the whole coast \nline and all the indentations. \n\nThis map may enable you to select your future home. "The \nSan Joaquin valley, with seven million acres, and the Sacra- \nmento valley with four million acres of rich agricultural land, \ncan give to 550,000 families a farm of twenty acres each, \nample for their sustenance; to say nothing of the Santa Clara, \nSalinas, Napa, Sonoma and other rich valleys throughout the \nstate. The rate of increase of California\'s population during \nthe decade from 1 900 to 1910 was 60. 1 per cent larger \nthan that of any state outnumbering her in population." Yet \nshe has a density of but 15.2 persons to the square mile. Bel- \ngium has over 600; Rhode Island has 508; Massachusetts \nhas 418; Illinois 100. \n\nThe Development Board keeps a complete file of Govern- \nment agricultural bulletins, and soil and climate reports. It \nhas literature on distribution about the resources and oppor- \ntunities afforded by various sections of the state, from every \ncounty that publishes any. Its annual report is a statistical \nsurvey of California, which can be had for the asking. In ad- \ndition there is a lecture hall, where lectures on various parts \nof California, illustrated with lantern slides, are delivered every \n30 minutes from 1 to 4 o\'clock during the afternoon. In 1912 \n\n\n\n1 66 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nthe average attendance at these lectures was 500 a day. About \nfifteen counties send lecturers, to inform prospective settlers of \ntheir chances. \n\nThe Development Board has nothing to sell. The infor- \nmation furnished is impartial and disinterested, and is based on \nactual agricultural surveys by experts in the field. Informa- \ntion on California will be mailed by the Board to persons in- \nterested, on request. \n\n\n\nSTATE MINING BUREAU, LIBRARY, AND MIN- \nERAL MUSEUM. \n\nLocated in the Ferry building, foot of Market street. Open \nfrom 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Entrance free. Visitors welcome. \n\nAn}) car dorvn MarJ^et, Mission, Cla]) or Union street. \n\nAs one of the world\'s great mining regions, California might \nbe expected to. maintain an important department of mines. \nAnd it does. To the tourist, the intending settler, or the \nexperienced mining engineer, there are few places in San Fran- \ncisco of greater interest than the State Mining Bureau. \n\nThe museum contains a most valuable and beautiful min- \neral collection. There are about 1 8,000 specimens, and they \ncome from all over the globe, and beyond; for almost the \nfirst things one sees on entering are three large meteorites, or \n"falling stars." In the vestibule is a fine exhibit of California \nstructural materials. \n\nCalifornia has produced over one and a half billion dollars \nworth of gold since Marshall\'s discovery at Coloma in 1 848. \nThe year 1852 holds the record for output, with $81 ,000,000. \nThe present yield is about $20,000,000 annually, the largest \namong the states. \n\nEntering the museum one sees a complete working model \nof a five-stamp ore mill, which runs by electricity. On the \nwalls are pictures of early scenes in the "diggings," with here \n\n\n\nState Mining Bureau 1 67 \n\nand there some such interesting relic as a primitive rocker for \nwashing gold from the sand and gravel. There are pictures \nof the oil fields, and models of mines. \n\nThe long cases contain mining and geological specimens of \nquartz, of uncut diamonds, of nuggets, of beautiful agates, \namethysts, tourmalines, beryl, kunzite, jasper, jade, aqua \nmarines, opals, sapphires \xe2\x80\x94 all the gems one ever heard of. \nThere is a clear quartz crystal weighing 1 06 pounds. \n\nThere are rare specimens of leaf and crystalline gold, and \nof silver found in the form of masses of wire, and in ex- \nquisitely foliated shapes, like ferns done in frost. There are \nstalactites tinted with copper to the green shade of falling \nwater, and others that look like growths of bronze. There .s \nprobably no mineral worth the mention that is not represented \nhere. \n\nTwo glass bell jars cover models of Australian nuggets \nabout the size of small valises. Of the 25,000 visitors that \nregister annually, a very respectable percentage inquires if they \nare solid gold. They are not. \n\nThere is also a model of the nugget James W. Marshall \nfound in the race of Sutter\'s mill on the American river, the \nlittle pellet that started the gold rush. \n\nOne could spend several delightful hours in the mineral \nmuseum. In addition, there is the mining and metallurgical \nlibrary, a quite exhaustive collection of the best works in this \nfield of knowledge, and there is a well equipped laboratory. \nThis is the head office of the state\'s Department of Mines. \n\n\n\nUNITED STATES MINT. \n\nAt the westerly corner of Mission and Fifth streets. Access- \nible by Market, Mission or Fifth street cars. Open to vis- \nitors daily, except on Sundays and holidays, from 9 to I 1 :30 \na. m., and from 12:30 to 2:30 p. m. Regularly appointed \nconductors will take visitors through and explain the processes \nof melting and coining. \n\n\n\n68 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nUNITED STATES MINT, FIFTH AND MISSION STREETS. \n\nThe building is architecturally handsome, designed in the \nclassic style of the Treasury of the United States at Wash- \nington, and, like the Treasury, impressing the beholder with \na sense of the dignity of the Government. The principal fea- \nture consists of the six fine Doric columns, forming a portico, \nabove an imposing pyramid of granite steps. The building \ndates from 1873, and sustained almost no damage from the \nfire of 1 906, or from the earthquake. The original Mint \nbuilding, erected in 1853-4, was on Commercial street. \n\nMore gold has been coined at the San Francisco Mint since \nits establishment in 1 854 than at any other in the country, \nnot even excepting Philadelphia, which has been coining since \n1 793. At this writing the San Francisco Mint is the only^ \none in the country where gold is coined. \n\nOver $1,340,000,000 worth of twenty-dollar gold pieces \nhave been minted at San Francisco. Of ten-dollar pieces \nover $127,000,000 have been produced here; and $120,000,- \n000 in five-dollar pieces. About ninety and a quarter thousand \ngold dollars have been coined at this mint, but few are now to \nbe found except at an occasional money lender\'s office along \nMontgomery street. Some three-dollar gold pieces and a large \nnumber of quarter-eagles were also made. As this is written. \n\n\n\nUnited States Mini 169 \n\n\n\nthe Mint is coining bronze centavos for the Philippines, and will \nundertake, on contract, to turn out money for any Central \nAmerican country or Pacific island that has no coinage facili- \nties of its own. \n\nIn the fiscal year 1912 this Mint received over $53,000,- \n000 worth of gold. It comes from all over the Pacific Coast \nand Alaska, some from the Philippine Islands, and even \nJapan and Australia. \n\nThe processes are interesting to watch, and visitors are always \nwelcome. \n\nThe supposition is quite general that a miner, or any owner of \nbullion, takes it to the mint and reseives the same metal back \nafter it has been converted into coin of the Republic. He does \nnot. What happens is more like this: \n\nThe bullion is taken to the receiving room, and the owner \ngets back a receipt for it by gross weight, with nothing said \nof its value. Thence it goes to the deposit furnaces, where \nmost of the base metal and dirt is eliminated. Back in the re- \nceiving room it is weighed, and then goes into a machine that \nchips a little off each side; and the pieces are assayed to de- \ntermine their fineness. Weight and assay report are turned \nover to the computers, who by an exhaustive calculation ascer- \ntain the value. The checks on this process are so complete \nthat all danger of error is eliminated. A warrant is drawn for \nthe amount, less charges for assaying and weighing, and the \ndepositor receives his money on the day following the deposit. \n\nThe bullion is now the property of the United States. At \npresent little gold is being coined, and receipts of it are likely \nto be melted down into bricks of about four hundred ounces, \nworth about $8,000 each, and stored Hke paving blocks in \nthe basement. \n\nIf the metal is silver it receives this sort of treatment: First \nthe melter and refiner takes the crude bullion and puts it through \nan electrolytic refining process, which turns it out .999 fine^ \nand better. It then receives an addition of enough copper to \nmake it 900 one-thousandths fine. In the melting room it is \n\n\n\nI 70 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nrun into ingots, which are cleaned in a pickle, smoothed on \nthe edges, trimmed at the ends, and sent back to the make-up \nroom, where the metal is weighed and assayed once more, and \ndelivered to the coiner as good and proper raw material from \nwhich to make money. This ingot-casting process makes a fas- \ncinating scene, with the liquid gold or silver poured, blazing, \ninto the iron molds. \n\nThe coiner\'s department takes the ingots and by successive \npassages through steel rolls reduces them to strips ten to twelve \nfeet long, and com thick. These shining ribbons then go \nthrough a machine that punches out the planchetts, or blanks. \nThey look like buttons with the shanks lost. A weigher sits \nalongside, snatching samples from the hopper as they fall from \nthe machine, and weighing them to make sure that the strip \nhas been rolled enough, and that nobody is going to get too \nmuch of Uncle Sam\'s metal in his money. \n\nAnnealing and cleaning follow, and a passage through the \ndryer, whence the blanks go to the milling machine and the \npresses, to be milled, reeded on the edges, and stamped into \nlegal tender. \n\nWhen gold is coined, stamping is preceded by more \nweighing, in automatic weighing machines so delicate they \nhave to be encased in glass, and so ingenious that they separate \nthe light and heavies, automatically, from blanks of proper \nweight. The light-weights are rejected and must go the round \nagain, but the heavies are clamped m a lathe, ten or a dozen \nat a time, and delicately filed on the edges as they turn. \n\nThe finished coins are counted by means of boards fitted \nwith fiddles or frets, which keep them in rows of uniform \nnumber; and finally they go to the great storage vaults to re- \nmain until called into circulation. \n\nThe long-continued heavy coinage of gold at San Francisco \nis intimately connected with the peculiar financial history of \nCalifornia. The people of this state have always preferred \ncoin to currency, and it may have been largely due to their sen- \ntimental regard for the metal their mines produced, that all \n\n\n\nCourt House and Post Office 171 \n\n\n\nthrough the Civil War, they conducted their business on a \nspecie payment basis. Private contracts specified it, and gen- \neral convention refused to recognize the "greenback" and the \n"shin-plaster," except at enormous discount. \n\nThose interested in numismatics will find in the entrance \nloom of the Mint a very interesting collection of coins, belong- \ning to the Society of California Pioneers; and here, also, \nis a large collection of medals belonging to the government. \n\nIn the Pioneers\' collection of coins is an oblong bar of gold, \nbearing the stamp of Frederick D. Kohler, state assayer, and \nthe date 1850. It circulated as money, of the value of $50. \nThese were the days of private minting. Coin was scarce and \nit was the custom for the San Francisco merchant to keep a \npair of balances on his counter, to weigh the gold dust, which \npassed at a heavy discount. Some more convenient medium \ncf exchange was needed, and the Mint had not yet been \nestablished, so private firms issued stamped ingots, octagonal \nin shape, which circulated at the face value of $50. In the \nwindows of some of the brokers\' offices along Montgomery \nstreet there can still be seen specimens of these fifty-dollar \n"slugs" as they are called, some of them issued by Augustus \nHumbert, United States assayer, and dated 1851 and 1852. \n\n\n\nUNITED STATES COURT HOUSE AND POST \nOFFICE BUILDING. \n\nSituated at the north corner of Mission and Seventh streets. \n\nTake Market street cars and walk half a block southeast \nfrom the corner of Seventh and Market, or take Mission street \ncars and get off at the corner of Seventh. \n\nProbably there is no post office like this in the United \nStates Here you walk through marble halls, and not white \nmarble only, but rich, warm and beautiful Pavonezza, Sienna \nand Numidian, trimmed with Verde Antique and with col- \nored stone from Tennessee and Maryland. The style of treat- \n\n\n\n1 72 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nment is Italian Renaissance. Overhead, the ribs of the quad- \nrinated vaulting are picked out in glass mosaic, and the columns \nare paneled with it. \n\nSome of the United States court rooms are extremely beau- \ntiful and impressive, and the chambers are finished in a way \nthat can properly be characterized as sumptuous. The building \ncost two and a half million. \n\nThe United States Circuit Court of Appeals, for the Ninth \nCircuit, which sits here, has the widest range of jurisdiction, \nterritorially, of any similar court- in the country. It hears ap- \npealed cases from the whole Pacific Coast \xe2\x80\x94 Arizona, Idaho, \nMontana, California, Oregon, Alaska, Hawaii, and even from \nthe United States extra-territorial court in Shanghai. In addi- \ntion to the Post Office, the structure houses also the court \nrooms, libraries and chambers of two divisions of the United \nStates District Court for the Northern District of California; \nof the Master in Chancery; and of many Federal officials. \n\nAt present the San Francisco Post Office holds about sev- \nenth place in the United States in respect to postal receipts. \nSince 1888 these have grown from $665,844, to $2,670,179 \nfor the fiscal year ending June 30, 1912; a gain of more \nthan $2,000,000 a year, or over 300 per cent in the annual \ntotals, in 24 years. \n\n\n\nHALL OF JUSTICE, CRIMINAL COURTS, MODEL \nCITY PRISON, PORTSMOUTH SQUARE. \n\nSan Francisco\'s Hall of Justice is the handsome grey stone \nbuilding on Kearny street between Merchant and Washington. \nTo reach it: \n\nTake Kearny street cars. Lines No. 15 or 16; or Mont- \nSomer\'^ and Tenth street line (no number). The Sacramento \nstreet line, traveling east, runs a block south of it, or trvo blocks \nsouth of it when traveling rvest. \n\nThe Hall of Justice contains the city\'s four police courts. \n\n\n\nPortsmouth Square 1 73 \n\n\n\nand the three criminal departments of the Superior Court of \nSan Francisco County. (Civil departments are in the City \nHall.) The courts open at 10 a. m. \n\nThe building cost over $ 1,1 00,000, and is of the finest \nsteel frame construction. From without it would never sug- \ngest a thought of the city prison on the top floor, yet here is \none of the model jails, said by visiting police officials and cor- \nrective experts to be the finest thing of the kind in the United \nStates. \n\nThe Hall of Justice stands on a historic site and overlooks \nhistoric ground. \n\nPortsmouth Square was the plaza of the early settlement, \nand was the center of activity. The first custom house was \nbuilt on the northwest corner of the plaza in 1845, with its \nnorth end on Washington street, according to Eldridge, in his \n"Beginnings of San Francisco," and was used as a barracks \non the American occupation. In front of the custom house \nwas the flag pole on which Montgomery, from the sloop-of- \nwar "Portsmouth," raised the American flag. The square \nwas the scene of public gatherings, celebrations, parades, mass \nmeetings, sometimes riots, and all about it were the brilliantly \nlighted, mirror-walled gambling palaces, where the flush miners \ncraving excitement sometimes lost the fruits of a year\'s labor \nin a night; and went back to more toil on the river bars instead \nof "going home." Here Col. E. D. Baker pronounced his \ncelebrated funeral oration at the bier of Senator Broderick, \nbefore a concourse of 30,000 people. \n\nNear the southeast corner of Clay and Kearny streets, over- \nlooking the square, Robert Ridley kept a billiard hall, and \nin it there hung the Vioget map of Yerba Buena, as the town \nwas called at that time. Grants of land were made according \nto this map, and the name of the grantee was written on it in \nthe appropriate place \xe2\x80\x94 so here we have the original hall of \nrecords. The Jenny Lind theater overlooked the square from \nthe east, and after it had twice burned and . had been re- \nbuilt in stone, it was sold to the city in 1852 for a city hall. \n\n\n\n74 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Fran \n\n\n\nCISCO \n\n\n\nht \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n-Sc-fc, \n\n\n\nI\xe2\x80\x94 ( \' \nO \n\nb \no \n\no \n\n\n\n* j-ILi \n\n\n\nThe Civic Center 1 75 \n\n\n\nIn 1 895 the ground was cleared for the Hall of Justice that \nwas destroyed in the conflagration of 1 906. Before its de- \nstruction, however, the Committee of Fifty, appointed by the \nMayor on April 1 8th, met in the basement of the building, \non the Merchant street side, on the evening of that day, to dis- \ncuss measures for the safety of the city. It was the last public \nuse of the building. \n\n\n\nTHE CIVIC CENTER. \n\nSan Francisco has voted $8,800,000 of bonds through \nwhich to provide lands for and help create one of the noblest \ngroups of public buildings in America. The total cost, includ- \ning land and construction, will come to about $16,800,000. \n\nThe site lies in a general easterly direction from Van Ness \navenue between McAllister and Grove streets to Hyde; and \nthe median line of it, which is Fulton street, extends a block \nbeyond, to the junction of Fulton and Market. \n\nThe two blocks between Polk and Larkin, running from \nGrove to McAllister, form a beautiful plaza, with ornamental \nshrubbery and a band stand, and about it will be the Muni- \ncipal Auditorium, Opera House, Museum, State Building, \nPublic Library, and City Hall. \n\nThe architects for the Civic Center are John Galen How- \nard, Fred Meyers and John Reid, Jr. \n\nNaturally the dominant feature of such a group will be the \nCity Hall, plans for which were awarded after open competi- \ntion to the local firm of architects, Bakewell & Brown. \n\nThe City) Hall will occupy two blocks between Grove and \nMcAllister streets, with one facade on the line of Polk street, \nand another on Van Ness avenue. The plans show a building \ncovering an area of 300 by 400 feet. The main two facades \nare composed each of a central pediment carried on columns of \nthe Doric order, flanked by smaller Doric colonnades. The \nmain architectural feature of the building is an immense dome. \n\n\n\n76 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0a \n\n\n\nrt OS \n\no H \n\n3 ^; \nw \no \n\no \n\n> \n\n\n\no \n\nS \n\no \n\n\n\nt.W"T\'rr--a\'a \n\n\n\nPanama-Pacific Exposition 1 77 \n\n1 1 feet in diameter, or 1 4 feet less than the dome of the \ncapifol at Washington, and 300 feet high, or 10 feet higher \nthan the capitol dome. \n\nThe structure will cost, complete and equipped, about \n$4,000,000. In it will be accommodated the various offices \nof the consolidated city and county of San Francisco. \n\nAt present, the Cit^ Hall is temporarily located in an office \nbuilding on Market street near Eighth. \n\n\n\nTHE PANAMA-PACIFIC INTERNATIONAL EX- \nPOSITION. \n\nAt the present writing, the place of most absorbing interest in \nSan Francisco is the 625 acres at Harbor View, Fort Mason \nand the east end of the Presidio, that is being covered by the \ncourts and exhibit palaces of the Panama-Pacific International \nExposition. Until the gates are opened on the completed \nscheme, the mere physical construction of the gigantic "plant \nwill be an exhibition of stupendous human effort. \n\nVisitors will be admitted within the fence for a nominal fee. \nTo reach the center of activity at the Exposition grounds, near \nthe general Service Building: \n\nTake any Sutter street car and transfer to Fillmore street, \ngoing north. Or, Presidio & Ferries car (Union street line) \nand transfer to Fillmore. \n\nTo reach foreign, state and county buildings, in the Pre- \nsidio : \n\nTake Presidio & Ferries car (Union street line) from the \nFerry, or on transfer from the O\'Farrell street line, and go to \nterminus. \n\nAutomobiles can go out Van Ness avenue and turn in at \nLombard street. \n\nExtensions of present street car facilities will provide many \nadditional ways of reaching the exposition grounds, but these \nare the direct approaches at present. \n\n\n\n78 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nFifty million dollars is a conservative estimate of the amount \nthat will be expended in the construction of this greatest of \nworld\'s fairs. Over $10,000,000 will be invested in amuse- \nment concessions alone. \n\n\n\n\nPliAN OF THE rANAMA-PACIFIC EXPOSITION. \n\nThe celebration of the opening of the Panama Canal in this \nmanner was first suggested at a meeting of the directors of \nthe old Merchants\' Asociation in 1904, by Mr. R. B. Hale, \nthen a director of the Association and now a director of the \nExposition. On the 28th of April, 1910, over $4,000,000 \ndollars was subscribed to the stock of the Exposition company \nin less than two hours by a meetmg that crowded the Mer- \nchants Exchange to the walls. The total subscriptions of \nthe citizens of San Francisco will approximate $7,000,000. \nThe State of California has appropriated $5,000,000, and \nthe municipal government a like amount. The California \ncounties are raising millions for their exhibits. \n\nThe officers of the corporation are: \n\nPresident, Charles C. Moore; vice-presidents, William H. \nCrocker, R. B. Hale, I. W. Hellman Jr., M. H. de Young, \nLeon Sloss and Hon. James Rolph Jr. ; secretary, Rudolph J. \n1 aussig ; treasurer, A. W. Foster ; executive committee, Charles \nC. Moore, Frank L. Brown, M. H. de Young, Alfred I. \nEsberg, William H. Crocker, Curtis H. Lindley, A. W. Fos- \n\n\n\nPanama-Pacific Exposition \n\n\n\n79 \n\n\n\nter, R. B. Hale, James McNab, I. W. Hellman Jr., and \nLeon Sloss. \n\nThe general offices, downtown, are in the Exposition Build- \n\n\n\n\nTHE WORLD\'S EXPOSITION AT THE GOLDEN GATE. \n\nI ing, at 2 1 6 Pine street, corner of Battery. \n\nIn addition to celebrating the completion of the Panama \nCanal, the Exposition has for a concrete ambition nothing \nless noble than the advancement of civilization by twenty-five \nyears. \n\nThe department of exploitation issues this significant "fore- \nword": \n\nThe Panama-Pacific International Exposition is a distinctly national \nundertaking determined upon by the Congress of the United States, and \ndesignated by the President of the United States for the purpose of cel- \nebrating the opening of the Panama Canal \xe2\x80\x94 a national accomplishment \nthat importantly affects the world. \n\nIn assuming the burden and expense of the Exposition, in response \nto the call of the President and the Congress of the United States, the \npeople of California are discharging an important public duty and execut- \ning a national trust, the accruing benefits of which will be shared by \nevery state in the union and by the entire citizenship of the nation. \n\nWhile this great inter-hemisphere waterway is a national project, it \nis nevertheless a world\'s asset, and the celebration of its opening will be \nparticipated in by all countries and peoples. The Exposition will con- \nstitute an international concourse of tremendous significance in its effect \nupon the natural productivity and commercial activity of all countries, \nand of the United States m particular. \n\n\n\n1 80 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nMARKETS. \n\nSan Francisco is a great depot for the collection and dis- \ntribution of foods, and her markets are a feature of interest \nthat no traveler should miss. Here can be seen the best \nof California fruits in their perfection ; such interesting things \nas the Burbank spineless cactus pear ; the loquat ; oranges, \nlemons and grape fruit of the cleanest and most beautiful ap- \npearance and the finest flavor, the earliest shipments of which \ngo east from Rocklin, 1 I 2 miles northeast of San Francisco. \nTropical fruits from the islands are on display. \n\nThe best-known entrepot of foods in San Francisco, and the \nmost modern and completely equipped in the world is the \n\nCalifornia Market, running through the block from Pine to \nCalifornia street, between Montgomery and Kearny. This is \na large, open, airy place, spacious and clean, where one can \nsee all the different kinds of fish, fruits, flowers, meats and \ngame that can be procured in San Francisco at any given sea- \nson of the year. The building is new, erected since the fire \nof 1906, of reinforced concrete, on the site of the old market \nthat was built here in 1867, and has served as a model of \nsanitation for markets in several other coast cities. The ground \nfloor is devoted to retail trade. The fish booths are interesting, \nshowing in season on their marble counters the finest striped \nbass, shad, pompano, small fry, Tahoe trout, sturgeon, salmon, \nsoles and sanddabs, crabs and clams. \n\nAlong the east side are oyster booths long ago grown into \nfull sized restaurants, where the fish is fresh and the cookery \nskillful. These places have been prime favorites with San \nFranciscans for almost two generations. It was here, it is \nsaid, that the oyster cocktail was invented; the small tooth- \nsome California oyster being especially adapted to this par- \nticular form of appetizer. \n\nIt is below the ground floor, however, that the main activi- \nties of the market are carried on. The magnitude of the \nbusiness transacted here is a thing of which San Franciscans \n\n\n\nIn the Markets 18 \n\n\n\nthemselves know little. One firm of tenants conducts a complete \ncreamery in the basement, which turns out 1 ,000 pounds of \nbutter a day. Upstairs the buttermilk can be had on draught. \n\nTwo tenants of this market do 80 per cent of the poultry \nbusiness of the city. One firm sells an average of 3,000 fowls \ndaily. About 8,000 chickens are kept on hand continuously. \nThe transports running to the Philippines, the United States \nforces at the Presidio and Fort Mason, are supplied from this \ninstitution. Beef and mutton are handled on a similar scale. \n\nThe California Market covers 55,000 square feet of ground, \nand the investment in land and plant represents three-quarters \nof a million dollars. The refrigeration machinery and cold \nstorage chambers alone cost over $60,000. \n\nOther downtown markets, similarly neat, modern and sani- \ntary, and also new since the fire, are the \n\nSpreckels Market, 751 Market street. \n\nLincoln Market, 877 Market street. \n\nLongs Market, 945 Market street. \n\nBa^ City, 970 Market street. \n\nWashington, 983 Market street. \n\nSome of these do an enormous retail business and are well \nworth visiting. \n\nBesides these, there are two that deserve special mention. \n\nIf you would see living and moving scenes such as those from \nwhich the old Dutch painters wrought their bitumen pictures, \nleave your hotel about 4 a. m., or earlier, and find your way \ndown through the echoing emptiness of dark streets to the \nColombo Market, on Davis street, running through to Front, \nbetween Jackson and Pacific. Here come the Italian truck \ngardeners from South San Francisco and below Hunter\'s Point, \nand from San Mateo county, trundling in the day\'s garden \ntruck and the salad for a city, on gigantic, high-sided carts \nthat loom in the murk like Gargantuan tumbrils with the food \nfor an army. It is a weird scene \xe2\x80\x94 the echoing hoof-beats in \nthe vacant streets, the shadowy lines of wagons moving between \nbrick walls broken here and there by a cavernous arch, the \n\n\n\n182 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nbooted and belted teamsters shouting to one another in full- \nthroated Italian, the tons of dimly descried produce dumped in \nthe market under the strugglmg electric lights, the loud-voiced \nhuckstering and chaffering, and after that is done the swarm- \ning into the neighboring restaurants for coffee or "vmo" and \nbreakfast, and the final dispersal as the day grows lighter and \nthe uncertain shapes of the night have taken normal form; all \ngo to make a series of tableaux vivaniSy that once witnessed \nwill long remain as one of your most picturesque impressions of \nSan Francisco. \n\nReturning to more conventionalized parts of town, arrive \nby 7 a, m., or earlier, at the San Francisco Wholesale Grotvers^ \nFlower Market, at 347 Bush street, just below the Stock Ex- \nchange. Here you will find assembled in a dim basement, \nscores of gardeners and flower dealers, with such an abundance \nof floral beauty as you will seldom see elsewhere ; for San \nFranciscans are a flower loving people. It matters not what \nthe season may be, June or December, January or August, \nthere will be a wealth of bloom and it does not have to be \nprotected from freezing, even in the open air. The flower ven- \nders along Market street draw a large part of their supplies \nfrom this point. \n\nThe free fish and crab market near Fishermen\'s Wharf has \nbeen sufficiently described in the directions for Trolley Trip \nNo. 3, in this book. \n\n\n\nSAN FRANCISCO\'S YEAR-\'ROUND FLORAL EX- \nPOSITION. \n\nThat sparkling bit of V^anity Fair, the Market street after- \nnoon parade, passes in its course two corners where masses of \ngorgeous bloom are set like snares for the contents of the \npasser\'s pocketbook. Yet the lure is not a serious financial \ndanger. A small amount commands a large gratification. It \nwould hardly be correct to say that everybody buys flowers, \n\n\n\nFloral Exposition \n\n\n\n83 \n\n\n\nbut it is true that everybody that wants them can have them, \nfor the prices are ridiculously small. All the long summer \nthrough, and a large part of the winter, 25 cents will buy a cor- \nsage bouquet of roses, or a spray of carnations and maiden \nhair, or a cluster of huge chrysanthemums larger and more per- \nfectly developed than ever grew in Japan. \n\n\n\n\nTHE OUTDOOR FLORAL FAIR. \n\nIn February, fifty cents will buy exactly such a mass of \nacacia bloom as it takes ten dollars to buy in New York. A \ngreat, fragrant bunch of violets that will perfume a room can \nbe bought for a dime. \n\nSan Francisco is the only city in the United States that per- \nmits flower vending at free street stands, and one of the very \nfew in which the climate would allow these perishable wares to \nbe exposed for sale the year around. Most of the trade is cen- \ntered at Market and Kearny streets, but the venders are all \nthrough the shopping district, and are patronized by all classes. \n\n\n\n1 84 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nThe long-stemmed and odorous Princess violets are espe- \ncially noteworthy. Possibly the little district of Grasse, in \nsouthern France, grows violets as fine as the San Francisco \nvariety, but no other part of the world does. Most of them \ncome from the vicinity of Colma, just across the San Francisco \nline, in San Mateo county, where some four hundred acres \nof them perfume the air all through the long blossoming sea- \nson. From San Francisco they are shipped up and down the \ncoast, from San Diego to Canada, and other shipments go \nas far east as Kansas City and Chicago. \n\nFrom March to June you will see the satin-petaled, shining \nglory of California fields and hillsides, the Golden Poppy, \ncalled by the Spaniards "Copa de Oro," or Cup of Gold. It \nis a brave and living thing of fire, making in the valleys pools \nof dazzling radiance, and in places pouring itself down the \nwestern slopes of the coast hills in glowing carpets that can be \nseen far out at sea. Named botanically for the first naturalist \nthat described it, Eschscholtzia Californica, has been formally \nand by statute adopted as the State flower. \n\nThe regular retail florists, doing business in their own stores, \nmake bewildering displays of orchids, lilies of the valley, and \npoinsettias, showing a prodigal abundance of stock that only a \nvigorous and general demand would justify carrying. \n\n\n\nLINCOLN PARK AND FORT MILEY. \n\nLincoln Park is a part of San Francisco no one should fail \nto visit. It is situated on the heights above Land\'s End, and \nnortheast of Point Lobos and the Cliff House, and from an \nelevation of two hundred feet it commands a close view of all \nthe wonderful features of the harbor entrance. To reach it: \n\nTake Sutter & Clement car. Line No. 2, get off at 33d ave- \nnue, and Walk a block Tpest; or, take Sutter and California car. \nLine No. /, marked Cliff, to 33d avenue. \n\n\n\nLincoln Park and Fort Miley \n\n\n\n85 \n\n\n\n\nLOOKING INTO THE GOLDEN GATE \xe2\x80\x94 LINCOLN PARK. \n\n\n\nIf you take time while visiting the vicinity of the Cliff House, \nit is an easy walk from there. \n\nPart of these airy uplands have been laid out by the city \nfor public golf links, where one can play six holes on a north- \nand-south course, or nine by playing westward from the north- \nern-most green, toward Land\'s End. The links are open to \npublic use without charge. \n\nLincoln Park was once the city cemetery, and considered \nso far removed from the city that it was given over largely \nto the burial of the poor, and of a few foreign sailors. Here \nthe Chinese, also, gave their dead temporary interment, before \nshipping home the bones to lie in the soil of the Celestial King- \ndom. West of the golf course are two curious structures of \nbrick and cement, forming enclosures open to the sky, with \nhigh walls at the west ends. They look like stone beds for \ngiants. These were the mortuary chapels where the Chinese \nheld their final funeral rites, offering the sacrifices of roast pig \n\n\n\n86 \n\n\n\nHandboof^ for San Francisco \n\n\n\nand fowl, and burning the paper images whose ghosts were to \nattend the dead. \n\nOn a hill toward the north stands a monument, "A Land- \nmark of the Seaman\'s Last Earthly Port and Resting Place, \nin which he Awaits the Advent of the Great Pilot." It was \nerected by Dr. Henry D. Cogswell, to the Ladies\' Seaman\'s \n\n\n\n\nCHINESE MORTUARY CHAPEL, IN LINCOLN PARK. \n\nFriend Society, and dedicated to Mrs. Rebecca H. Lambert, \nthe society\'s founder, whose grave is under the cypresses nearby. \nFrom the turn of the road just west of this monument is \none of the most inspiring views to be found anywhere, em- \nbracing the Golden Gate and a large part of the city. You \nare close to the water, and directly opposite the Marin county \nbluffs, which rise three hundred, four hundred, nine hundred \nfeet, sheer from the waters of the Golden Gate, and have \nbeen eroded into rugged canyons and sharply sculptured ridges. \nYou can look north to Drake\'s Bay, and then, turning to the \n\n\n\nLincoln Park and Fori Mi7e\\j 187 \n\nright, you see Point Bonita, the north headland of the har- \nbor, Point Diablo directly across, Lime Point with Battery \nSpencer on the bluff above, the mile-wide opening of the Golden \nGate between Lime Point and Fort Winfield Scott, and \nthrough the Gate, Raccoon straits, leading into the northern \npart of the Bay, with Angel Island to right of the channel. \nStretching back from the little brick fort are the scarred bluffs \nof the Presidio, against whose wooded heights are ranged the \ncoast defense batteries, though indistinguishable at this distance. \nFar beyond are the Contra Costa hills, across the Bay. Still \nfurther to the right appears Lone Mountain with its cross, \nthe towers of St. Ignatius church, the heights of Buena Vista \nPark, the Affihated Colleges on the slope of Mt. Sutro, and \nbefore the college buildings the long, dark lane of verdure run- \nning westward, which is Golden Gate Park. A bit beyond the \nline of the Affiliated Colleges, and in the Park, rises the Prayer \nBook Cross, commemorating the first religious service ever held \nen the Pacific Coast \xe2\x80\x94 that one conducted by Drake\'s chaplain \nin 1 5 79 on the shore of the little bay that appears dimly in \nthe north. \n\nLincoln Park is in process of development, but when con- \nnected with Golden Gate Park and the Presidio by good roads \nit will be one of the famous parks of the world, for its inspir- \ning view can be matched nowhere. \n\nFort Mile^. On the heights above Point Lobos and Land\'s \nEnd, and west and south of Lincoln Park. Accessible from \nthe Cliff House by walking eastward up Point Lobos avenue \nto Forty-third avenue and then northward to main entrance at \nForty-third avenue and Clement street. Or, \n\nTake Sutter & Clement car. Line No. 2, to 43d avenue and \nWalk north. \n\nThis is a small artillery post, established in 1 90 L and is \nheadquarters for the Pacific Coast Artillery District. The \nviews from the roads here are very fine and command the coast \nfor many miles to the northward. \n\n\n\nI 88 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nFORT MASON AND THE TRANSPORT DOCKS. \n\nTake Ninth & Polk streets cross town line, north bound, by \ntransfer from any line of the United Railroads, and go to Lom- \nbard street. Walk three blocks north and a block T^est. \n\nThe United States military reservation at Black Point, known \nas Fort Mason, is one of the many beautiful spots in San Fran- \ncisco. The view from the bluffs overlooking Black Point \nCove, and from the entire water front of the reservation, pre- \nsents that wonderful panorama of bay and hills and wandering \nshore-line, of islands, ships and broken coast, of which the \nlover of the inspiring aspects of nature can never get enough. \nThe Point projects well into the bay, and gives a view from \nthe Berkeley hills clear around to the Golden Gate and through \nii out to sea. \n\nFort Mason is the site of the general supply depot of the \nQuartermaster\'s Department, the Signal Corps depot, the Medi- \ncal Supply depot and the army transport wharves. The resi- \ndences of the Department Commander and his staff are also \nhere. Here is the largest Quartermaster\'s supply depot in \nthe country carrying general stores. \n\nDirectly westward are the Panama-Pacific Exposition \ngrounds occupying the floor of the amphitheater known as \nHarbor View. Just under the bluff to the east is one of the \ntwo pumping stations of the city\'s auxiliary salt water fire \nprotection system, practically a twin of the one at Second and \nTownsend streets. \n\nThe Dolphin Swimming and Boating Club, the Ariel and \nthe South End Boating Clubs are just below in Black Point \nCove. \n\nProjecting northward into the channel, west of the point, \nare the \n\nUnited States Army Transport Docks, the only transport \ndocks in the country that are owned by the government. \n\nThese three piers are 500 feet long. The outer ones are \n8 1 feet wide, and the center one I 1 9 feet in width, with a rein- \n\n\n\nAlcairaz Island 189 \n\n\n\nforced concrete shed 90 by 428 feet, and two lines of railroad \ntrack. \n\nOne or two transports are always lying at these wharves, and \nvisitors will be permitted to board them on application to the \nsuperintendent of the service, whose office is in the southeast \ncorner of the pier, up stairs. The best time to visit the docks \nis on the fifth of the month, when the troop ship departs for \nGuam and the Philippines. The soldiers, five or six hundred \nof them, are brought over in the morning from the recruiting \ncamp on Angel Island, and lined up along the dock to receive \ntheir mess kits for the voyage. The embarkation, in military \norder, is one of the sights of the city. Lines are cast off and the \nvessel leaves the dock promptly at noon. If the fifth falls on \nSunday, the transport sails on Monday. \n\nIn early days Black Point was a choice residence locality, \nand some of the dwelimgs along the east side of the point \nwhich are now occupied as quarters for the officers of the \ndivision commander\'s staff were "mansions" of the elite. In one \nof them, the old residence of Leonidas Haskell, Senator Brod- \nerick died of the wound he received in the duel with Judge \nTerry, in 1 859. \n\n\n\nALCATRAZ ISLAND. \n\nAlcatraz (in Spanish, Pelican) island, opposite North \nBeach and Meiggs Wharf, and just within the Golden Gate \nis the site of the great military prison of the west, and is known \nthroughout the army as "the Rock." \n\nThis is the Chateau D\'lf of America, a place from which, \nit is claimed, no prisoner ever escaped. It is about 20 acres \nin extent, and is safeguarded by the racing tides of the Golden \nGate which at this point would baffle the strongest swimmer. \nWith its light-house tower and grey prison walls it has a most \nromantic aspect, from many points on the bay. Military pris- \noners are at present confined there, and there are accommoda- \n\n\n\n190 Handbook for San Francisco \n\ntions for about 600, but it is about to be turned over to the \nDepartment of Justice and converted into a Federal penitentiary. \nThe light on Alcatraz is one of the most powerful in the \nlight-house service. It is 214 feet above mean high water \nand on a clear night can be seen 2 1 miles at sea. \n\n\n\nSAN FRANCISCO IN BOOKS. \n\nSan Francisco has supplied the material of a notable liter- \nature. Every era of its history has produced its fiction historian, \nand the life atmosphere has persisted through all vicissitudes. \n\nOf this city Bret Harte wrote Gabriel Conroy; Frank \nNorris wrote McTeague, Blix, Moran of the Lady Letiy \nand in part The Octopus; and that gentle wizard whose fancy- \nfreighted galleon floats the long years through, above the con- \nverging paths of Portsmouth Square, wrote his masterpiece. \nThe Wrecker, with its smugglers, its plungers, its thrilling auc- \ntion of the wreck, on the floor of the Merchants Exchange; its \nreminiscences of the "What Cheer House" and of the Emperor \nNorton. \n\nOn this local institution, the Empire of Norton, begotten of \nlunacy on the one side and, on the other, of a big-souled char- \nity that expressed itself in a touching sort of fun, Stevenson \nhas left us a passage redolent of the literary flavor of the city. \nHe says: \n\nOf all our visitors I believe I preferred Emperor Norton, the very \nmention of whose name reminds me I am doing scanty justice to the folks \nof San Francisco. In w^hat other city would a harmless madman who \nsupposed himself emperor of the two Americas have been so fostered and \nencouraged? Where else would even the people of the streets have \nrespected the poor soul\'s illusion? Where else would bankers and mer- \nchants have received his visits, cashed his cheques and submitted to his \nsmall assessments? Where else would he have been suffered to attend and \naddress the exhibition days of schools and colleges? Where else In God\'s \ngreen earth have taken his pick of restaurants, ransacked the bill of fare \nand departed scathless? They tell me he was even an exacting patron, \n\nthreatening to withdraw his custom when dissatisfied a portly, \n\nrather flabby man, with the face of a gentleman, rendered unspeakably \npathetic and absurd by the great sabre at his side and the peacock\'s \nfeather in his hat. \n\n\n\nSan Francisco in Books 191 \n\nIncluding such writers as Ambrose Bierce, Bret Harte. \nMark Twain, Gertrude Atherton, W. C. Morrow, Gelett \nBurgess and the Irwins, Wallace and Will, there is a long \nlist of men and women of standing in their art who have \nsought to translate into letters the peculiar charm of San Fran- \ncisco. That the visitor\'s enjoyment of the locality may be \nheightened by their appreciation of it we give a list of some of \nthem, and the work in which they have interpreted the spirit \nof the place. The books may be found in the public library or \nMechanics-Mercantile, or may be purchased at the leading \nbook stores: \n\nBy Gertrude Atherton: A Daughter of the Vine; Ancestors; Rez- \nanof ; The Calif ornians ; Patience Sparharo\\; American Wives and \nEnglish Husbands; The Splendid, Idle Forties. \n\nBy Geraldine Bonner: Hard Pan; The Pioneer; TomorroTo\'s \nTangle; Rich Mens Children. \n\nGelett Burgess: The Heart Line; Lad^ Mechante. \n\nCharles Warren Stoddard: Footprints of the Padres. \n\nGelett Burgess and Will Irwin: The Picaroon. \n\nEsther and Lucia Chamberlain: The Other Side of the Door. \n\nArnold Genthe and Will Irwin: Old Chinatown. \n\nSara Dean: Travers. \n\nA. M. Douglas: A Little Girl in Old San Francisco. \n\nE. E. Green: The City of the Golden Gate. \n\nJeremiah Lynch: A Senator of the Fifties. \n\nC. J. Jackson: The Day of Souls. \n\nJoseph L. King: History of the San Francisco Stocl^ and Exchange \nBoard. \n\nMrs. Fremont Older: The Socialist and the Prince. \n\nHelen Throop Purdy: San Francisco As It Was, As It Is, and HoTo \nto See It. \n\nEarl Ashley Walcott: Blindfolded; The Apple of Discord; The \nOpen Door. \n\nClyde Westover: The Dragons Daughter. \n\nEmma Wolf: A Prodigal in Love; Other Things Being Equal. \n\nW. C. Morrow: The Ape, the Idiot, and Other People. \n\nChester Bailey Fernald: The Cat and the Cherub; The Gentleman \nin the Barrel. \n\nErnest Peixotto: Romantic California. \n\nFor broad and colorful sketching of the city before the fire, \none can hardly do better than Will Irwin\'s The Cily That \nWas; and for good, vivacious narrative of the reconstruction \nwe commend Rufus Steele\'s The Cii\\) That Is. For the day \n\n\n\n192 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nof the Spanish pioneer, read Zoeth Eldredge on The Beginnings \nof San Francisco. John P. Young\'s history of the city em- \nbraces the entire subject. \n\nVery readable San Francisco history runs through Theodore \nHittell\'s History of California, and there is good descriptive \nmatter in Hubert Howe Bancroft\'s Some Cities and San Fran- \ncisco. \n\nOne of the leading sources of local history is the Colonial \nHistory of the City of San Francisco, by John W. Dwindle, \nknown as "Dwinelle\'s Colonial History"; a brief prepared for \nthe trial of an early land title case. There is also a History \nof the City of San Francisco, by John S. Hittell. \n\nOther good books dealing with early conditions or special \ntopics are: \n\nThe March of Portola and the Discovery of the Bav of San Fran- \ncisco, by Zoeth S. Eldredge, with which is included The Log of the San \nCarlos, and other documents translated and annotated by E. J. Molera. \n\nThe Adventures of a Forty-niner, by Daniel Knower. \n\nMen and Memories of San Francisco in the Spring of \'50, by Theo- \ndore Augustus Barry. \n\nThe Neiv and the Old, by J. W. Palmer, M. D. \nLights and Shades in San Francisco, by Benjamin E. Lloyd. \nLights and Shadoivs of Life on the Pacific Coast, by S. D. Woods. \nSeven Years\' Street Preaching in San Francisco, by William Taylor. \nCalifornia Life, by the same author. \nSan Francisco and Thereabout, by Charles Keeler. \nPioneers of Prosperity, by David H. Walker. \n\nSan Francisco\'s Ocean Trade, Past and Future, by Benjamin C. \nWright. \n\nThe Clouds and Fogs of San Francisco, by Alexander McAdie. \n\n\n\nLIBRARIES. \n\nSan Francisco has some notable libraries and facilities for \nhistorical and scientific research. It has the finest medical \nlibrary in the West, a Polish library, the largest French library \nin the United States, and just across the Bay, at the University \n\n\n\nf Libraries 193 \n\nof California, in Berkeley, an important reference collection of \n300,000 volumes, including the famous Bancroft library of \noriginal historical documents and sources of history for Cali- \nfornia and the Pacific Coast. \n\nThe San Francisco Public Library has its main collection, \nreference and reading room in a temporary building at Hayes \nand Franklin streets, but is to occupy a monumental public \nbuilding in the Civic Center. It contains about 135,000 vol- \numes. To reach its present location: \n\nTake Hayes street car. Line No. 6. \n\nAt present a visitor may have the privilege of drawing books \nby filing the proper application for a card, signed by a tax \npayer as guarantor. Application blanks may be obtained at \nthe main library or any branch. An additional card may be \nobtained for works other than fiction, which enables the holder \nto draw two books at a time. Cards expire two years from \ndate of issue. \n\nThe reference and reading rooms are open to the public from \n9 a. m. to 9 p. m. ; Sundays, 1 : 30 to 5 p. m. \n\nMechanics\' -Mercantile Library. At 57 Post street, in the \nMechanics\' Institute building, between Montgomery and \nKearny streets. Open from 9 a. m. to 1 p. m. on week \ndays ; and on Sundays and holidays from 11 a. m. to 5 p. m. \n\nThis is a subscription circulating library. A member may \nintroduce a friend not a resident of the city, who will be allowed \nthe use of the rooms for one month; or non-residents may use \nthe library for a month on payment of 50 cents in advance; \nbut members only can draw books. The terms of membership \nare: entrance fee, $1.00; quarterly dues, in advance, $1.50; \nlife membership, $50.00. \n\nThe Mechanics\'-Mercantile is next in point of popularity \nto the Public library, having been formed by the merger of \ntwo local institutions that were rooted in the life of the city \nin early days. Its chess room, a favorite resort of many pio- \nneers, is headquarters for the Mechanics\' Institute Chess and \nChecker Club. \n\n\n\n1 94 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\nBooJ^lovers and Tabard Inn Libraries. At 20 Geary street, \nnear Market. Open from 9 a. m. to 5:30 p. m. \n\nThe Booklovers is a circulating library of late fiction. Dues, \n$5.00 a year or 50 cents a month. About 10,000 volumes. \n\nThe Tabard Inn Library, conducted at the same place, \nhas a slightly different plan. The initial fee of $1.50 entitles \nthe subscriber to the ownership of the first book, which may \nthereafter be exchanged on payment of a fee of 5 cents. \n\nThe Paul Elder Library. At 239 Grant avenue, in the \nrear of the book store of Paul Elder & Co. Hours, 8:30 \na. m. to 5 :30 p. m. \n\nA library of late fiction. Books are rented at the rate of \n2 cents a day, (day of issue but not day of return) minimum \ncharge, 5 cents ; no membership fee. A membership card is \nisued to each patron of the library, and accepted by the librarian \nas an identification. No deposit is required if a business refer- \nence is given. About 1 ,500 copies of the latest titles. Espe- \ncially attractive to visitors, as they pay only when they have \nbooks out. \n\nCalifornia State Mining Bureau Library and John Hays \nHammond Public Mining Library. In the offices of the State \nMining Bureau, Ferry building, foot of Market street. Refer- \nence only. Open to the public, free, every day but Sundays \nand holidays, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Closed at 12 m. Sat- \nurdays. \n\nBibliotheque Francaise. 126 Post street, over the Pig \'n* \nWhistle. Ouverte tous les Jours Excepte les Dimanches et \nJours Feries de 2 h. a. 6 h. de I\'apres-midi, et de 8 h. a. 10 h. \ndu Soir. \n\nLargest collection of French books in this country. Before \nthe fire it had 25,000 volumes, and now has nearly 12,000. \nFree to visitors, and on the tables will be found the leading \nFrench magazines and newspapers. The circulating privilege \nis obtained on payment of $1.00 entrance fee, and 50 cents a \nmonth thereafter. Books may be kept 1 5 days and renewed \n\n\n\nLibraries 1 95 \n\nfor a like period. The library dates from 1876, when it was \nfounded with a surplus from subscriptions raised among the \nFrench people of San Francisco for the assistance of France \nin the Franco-Prussian war. \n\nLibrary^ of the Polish Society of California. At 2091 Fif- \nteenth street. Open Saturdays, from 7 to 8 p. m. Circulating. \nVisitors welcome. About 500 volumes in Polish and English. \n\nSan Francisco Law Library. Fourth floor temporary City \nHall, Eighth and Market streets. Open week days from 9 \na. m. to 10:45 p. m., and Sundays from 10:30 a. m. to \n4:30 p. m. ; closes on week days during court vacation at \n6 p. m. A free circulating and reference library of 27,000 \nvolumes, supported by municipal appropriation, and fees paid \nby litigants on suits filed in the Superior Court. \n\nLibrary of the Genealogical Society of California. In the \nGreen Room of the Fairmont Hotel, first floor, at California \nand Mason streets. A reference library for members only; \nbetween three and four hundred volumes on biography, gen- \nealogy and history. Open from 9 a. m. to 1 p. m. \n\nLibrary of Leland Stanford Junior University. At Palo \nAlto, Cal. \n\nSouthern Pacific train leaving Third and Townsend depot, \nto Palo Alto, and trolley car from the station. \n\nOpen during the university term from 8 a. m. to 1 p. m. ; \nduring vacations, from 8:30 a. m. to 4:30 p. m. Closed \nSaturday afternoons and Sundays. Largely for reference, but \nhas some books that may circulate. To those not connected \nwith the university a fee of $5 a year is charged. The library \nhas 1 75,000 volumes and is growing at the rate of about \n15,000 annually. Founded in 1891. \n\nLibrary of the University of California. At Berkeley, \nacross the bay. \n\nSouthern Pacific or Key Route ferry and suburban electric \ntrains connecting. \n\n\n\n96 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nA SAN FRANCISCO RESIDENCE PARK. \n\n\n\nOpen during the term from 8 a. m. to 10 p. m. on week \ndays; Saturdays from 8 a. m. to 12 m., and from 7 to 1 \np. m. ; Sundays from 1 a. m. to 4 p. m. Vacation hours \nare from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Free for reference. Circulating \nfor professors and students. \n\nThis library contains about 300,000 volumes, and grows \nat the rate of 15,000 a year. The new library building is a \nparticularly beautiful composition of white California granite, \nrecently completed at a cost of about $600,000, from funds \nbequeathed by Charles F. Doe of San Francisco. With its \nequipment the plant represents an investment of over $850,000. \nThe main reading room is the second largest in the United \nStates. Here is also the Bancroft Library of California and \nPacific Coast History. This famous collection of books, \npamphlets and original documents is housed in the same build- \ning with the Library of the University of California, just to \nthe left, as you enter. On its accumulation the historian Hubert \nHowe Bancroft of San Francisco expended over $400,000, \nand it is likely to remain for a long time the principal source \nof information for students of the history not only of California \nfind the Pacific Coast, but of many other countries bordering on \n\n\n\n\\ \n\nLibraries 197 \n\n\n\nthe Pacific. There are about 50,000 volumes, and it is open \nfrom 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. \n\nLevi Cooper Lane Library of Medicine and Surgery. Web- \nster and Sacramento streets. Open daily except Sundays from \n8:45 a. m. to 5:30 p. m. \n\nSacramento street cable car, either from the Ferry, or by \ntransfer from the Porvell street cable, changing at Sacramento \nand Powell streets. \n\nThis is the library of the Department of Medicine of Leland \nStanford Jr., University. It is the largest medical library west \nof Chicago, and the largest university medical library in the \nUnited States, containing 40,000 volumes at present. The \nbuilding is a five-story structure, dedicated in November, 1912 \nwith the most improved equipment, and capacity for 1 20,000 \nbooks. In the reading room are some very beautiful mural \npaintings by Arthur Matthews. The fees are $5 a year for \nreference use, and $ 1 for the circulating privilege, with life \nmembership at $ 1 00. \n\nThe library was founded and the building erected with \nfunds provided by Dr. Levi Cooper Lane and Pauline C. \nLane, his wife. \n\nPhotographic Library. See California Camera Club, under \n"Clubs and Organizations." \n\nLibrary of the Commonrvealth Club. At 153 Kearny street. \nA good and growing collection of publications on political, \neconomic and sociological questions. Club rooms open from 9 a. \nm. to 5 p. m., week days, except Saturdays, when they close \nat 3 p. m. \n\nLibrary of the Bar Association. Pacific Building, Market \nand Fourth streets. \n\n\n\n\'^-^mti^ \n\n\n\n1 98 HandbooJf for San Francisco \n\nBOOK STORES, NEW AND OLD. \n\nOf good places to buy books in San Francisco these should \nbe mentioned: \n\nThe shop of Alexander M. Robertson, publisher of many \nworks by California writers; at 222 Stockton street, corner of \nUnion Square avenue, and facing Union Square. \n\nPaul Elder\'s, at 239 Grant avenue, near Sutter. Elder \nis active as a publisher. \n\nJohn Howell\'s, at 107 Grant avenue, near Geary. Howell \nis an importer of fine books and rare old ones. \n\nH. S. Crocker & Co., 565 Market. A large store with a \nlarge stock. \n\nJohn J. Newbegin\'s, at 31 1-315 Sutter. Newbegin is also \nan importer. \n\nWestern Methodist Book Concern; 5-7 City Hall avenue. \n\nWestminster Book Store ; 400 Sutter street, corner of Stock- \nton. \n\nThe White House, department store, at Sutter street and \nGrant avenue, has a very large book department and its stock \nof foreign books is said to be the best in the United States. \n\nGood book departments are also to be found in the Em- \nporium, on the south side of Market street between Fourth \nand Fifth, and at Hale Bros\', at the corner of Market and \nFifth streets. \n\nThe city lost a wealth of old libraries in the fire, but still \na few find their way into the hands of the second hand book \ndealers, whose stocks have recently begun to exhibit their former \nvariety. Californiana is growing scarce, but occasionally a \ngood bit rewards a prowl among the old-book stores. Some \nof the best-known of the second-hand shops and dealers are: \n\nThe Holmes Company, 70 Third street, south of Market, \nwith another store at 22 1 Market. \n\nWellendorf Book Company, 1 035 Market, near Sixth. Old \nand new books. \n\n\n\nThe Press [99 \n\nKing\'s Book Store, 1716 Market, near Gough. \n\nKing Bros., new and second-hand 1182 Market, be- \ntween Jones and Marshall Square. \n\nJ. H. Cain, 679 McAllister, near Gough. \n\nMcDevitt\'s Book Omnorium, 1004 Fillmore, near McAl- \nlister. \n\nC. H. Ryder, Philadelphia Book Company. 1279 Golden \nGate avenue, near Fillmore. \n\nSan Francisco Occult Book Company, new and second-hand, \n1141 Polk, near Sutter. \n\nFrench books can be found at the shop of Victor Martin \nand Charles Poulin, 664 Broadway, between Grant avenue \nand Stockton street, opposite the Liberty Theater, and at the \nshop kept by A. Pradels, 1111 Polk street, near Post. \n\nGerman books can be found at Richard Rieger\'s, 86 Fourth \nstreet, and 1320 Fillmore; and at Gustav Schenk\'s, 2007 \nFillmore, near Pine. \n\nItalian books are sold at the shop of A. Cavalli & Co., 263 \nColumbus avenue, above Kearny, and by Unti & Perasso, at \n343 Columbus avenue, near Grant avenue. \n\nSpanish books are kept by Jose Sanchez, at 639 Vallejo \nstreet, near Grant avenue. \n\n\n\nTHE PRESS. \n\nSan Francisco has had, since its earliest history, a distin- \nguished press. Its tone has been metropolitan from the begin- \nning, but it has also been something more. Vitalizing con- \ntacts with new conditions, and freedom from conventional re- \nstraints, operated to produced journalists of originality, who \nacquired national and international reputation. \n\nThis was the starting point of such writers and newspaper \nworkers as Ambrose Bierce, Frank Bailey Millard, Arthur \nMcEwen, W. C. Morrow, Charles Michaelson, Miriam Mich- \naelson, Charles Dryden, Philip A. Roche, Ned Townsend of \n\n\n\n200 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nChimmie Fadden fame, James Hopper, Rufus Steele, Daven- \nport and Edgren, the cartoonists, Earl Ashley Walcott, the \nnovelist, J. O\'Hara Cosgrave, who was editor of the San \nFrancisco "Wave" when Frank Norris made it the laboratory \nof his early efforts, William Melony, "Bob" Davis, Henry C. \nRawley, Alice Rix, Annie Laurie, Helen Dare, Kathleen \nNorris, Adele Brooks; Swinnerton, "Tad," Maynard Dixon \nand Grant Wallace, the illustrators; Lincoln Steffens and Sam- \nuel E. Moffett, the publicists, Chester Bailey Fernald, Will and \nWallace Irwin, Harrison Fisher, the illustrator, and "Bud" \nFisher, creator of "Mutt and Jeff." There were many more; \nhumorists, essayists on the pressing and vital topics of the day, \nfrom Bret Harte and Mark Twain to Edward F. Cahill, "Our \nCandid Friend." \n\nToday, this city is an important publishing center, with \nover 1 50 daily, weekly and monthly publications, representing \npractically all leading languages; Greek, Hebrew, Italian, Chi- \nnese, French, German, Russian, Polish. We can not list them \n?11, but the leading English publications are the \n\nSan Francisco Call; afternoon, now published from the \nClaus Spreckels building at Third and Market streets. This was \nrecently changed to an afternoon paper. Until the change was \nmade it was the oldest San Francisco morning paper. Mark \nTwain was one of its reporters during his San Francisco days. \n\nSan Francisco Chronicle; morning, published at Market and \nKearny streets. Founded by Charles and M. H. de Young. \nSome famous writers have served it. Will Irwin was its Sun- \nday editor for a time, and so was Rufus Steele, now holding \nthe same position on the Call. John P. Young, the well-known \npublicist, is its managing editor, and the noted literary critic, \nGeorge Hamlin Fitch, contributes its widely read book reviews. \n\nSan Francisco Examiner; morning, published at Market, \nKearny and Third streets. This was the first Hearst paper in \nthe United States. A^mbrose Bierce contributed his famous \ncolumn of "Prattle" to its Sunday numbers for several years, \nSamuel E. Moffett was one of its editorial writers, and T. T. \n\n\n\nV \n\n\n\nhe Press 201 \n\nWilliams one of its leading spirits. Arthur McEwen and W. \nC. Morrow, the author, were part of its staff, as well as Frank \nBailey Millard, Earl Ashley Walcott, and Wallace Irwin. \n\nBulletin; afternoon, published at 767 Market street. This \nis the oldest existing San Francisco newspaper, having been \nfounded in 1855 by James King of William, whose murder \nthe following year led to the uprising of the Vigilantes and \nmade much early history. \n\nSan Francisco Evening Post; afternoon, published at 727 \nMarket street. The single tax movement in America origin- \nated with its founder, Henry George, author of "Progress and \nPoverty," who established the paper in 1879. \n\nNews; afternoon, pubhshed at 340 Ninth street. A penny \npaper of the Scripps-McRae group. \n\nCommercial News, morning, published at 330 Sansome \nstreet. Shipping and marine intelligence and financial news. \n\nJournal of Commerce, afternoon, published at 1 65 Jessie \nstreet, corner of Annie. Commercial, financial, shipping, mu- \nnicipal and general news. \n\nMunicipal Record, published every Thursday by the Board \nof Supervisors at the City Hall, 1231 Market street, for the \npurpose of furnishing information concerning public municipal \nimprovements and the work of the several municipal depart- \nments. \n\nNervs Bureau, issued during the noon hour from 88 First \nstreet, containing brief presentations of important news, espe- \ncially financial, for business men at their desks. \n\nRecorder, morning, published at 28 Montgomery street. \nContains the court calendars, important Supreme court deci- \nsions, and other information of value to attorneys, together with \na page of general news and a column of editorial. \n\nArgonaut, weekly, published at 207 Powell street; editorial \ncomment, short stories, selected verse and European corre- \nspondence. Founded in 1877 by Fred M. Somers and Frank \nPixley. The Argonaut is the leading literary weekly of the \nWest, and one of the foremost in the country. It circulates in \n\n\n\n202 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nevery civilized land. Almost every San Francisco writer that \nhas risen to distinction since its founding has sought the public \nthrough its columns, and we find among them such names as \nGertrude Atherton, Frank Norris, W. C. Morrow, Harry \nDam, E. W. Townsend, Jerome A. Hart, Ambrose Bierce, \nFrank Bailey Millard and John Fleming Wilson. \n\nWasp, weekly, 121 Second street; politics, society, finance, \nart and theatrical reviews. This was the first paper in the \nUnited States to run colored cartoons. \n\nNervs Letter, weekly, 2 1 Sutter street. Oldest existing \nweekly in San Francisco. Founded in 1856. Political com- \nment, financial, society and theatrical news. \n\nTown Talk, weekly, 88 First street. Current comment on \nthe amusements and social doings of the city, with interesting \nsketches of prominent persons. \n\nAmong magazines there are the \n\nOverland Monthly, 21 Sutter street; founded by Bret Harte \nand built up by the work of many distinguished contributors. \nThe Overland first published "The Luck of Roaring Camp" \nand "The Heathen Chinee." Joaquin Miller wrote for it, and \nin its pages first appeared parts of Mark Twain\'s "Innocents \nAbroad." \n\nSunset Magazine; monthly, published at 448 Fourth street. \nDevoted to the literary exploitation of the beauties and resources \nof California and the West. Visitors will find in its pages \nmost attractive descriptive matter on California, accompanied \nby fine colored illustrations. Sunset has had a remarkable \ncareer. Beginning as a "house organ" of the Southern Pacific \nRailroad Company it was developed by judicious management, \nunder the editorship of the late Charles S. Aiken, into a maga- \nzine of the best type, appealing to a wide and general interest. \nIt is doubtful if there is another publication in the West that \nhas done so much to make the West known to the world. \n\nIn addition there is a number of religious journals, such as \nthe Pacific Unitarian, the Pacific Presbyterian, the Monitor \nand the Leader (Catholic) , the Hebrew, and Emanu El (Jew- \n\n\n\nBankh and Finance 203 \n\n\n\nish), the Pacific (Congregational), the Pacific Churchman \n(EpiscopaHan), the Pacific Christian (Christian church), and \nthe Pacific Methodist Advocate, and fraternal and trade publi- \ncations too numerous to mention here. \n\n\n\nBANKS AND FINANCE. \n\nBoth the cosmopolitan character and the financial strength \nof San Francisco appear in its banks. Here are British, \nFrench, Italian, Portuguese, German, Chinese and Japanese \nfinancial institutions. There were in this city at the beginning \n1913, 37 banks with 9 branches, showing a total capital, \nsurplus and undivided profits of $80,727,948. The savings \ndeposits of Dec. 31st, 1912, amounted to $189,714,076, the \nlargest on record, and the depositors numbered over half the \npopulation. On Feb. 10th, 1913, the deposits had grown \nto $202,295,143. \n\nThe aggregate resources of three of the national banks of \nSan Francisco are larger than the aggregate resources of all \nthe national banks in any one of 30 states. In population, \nSan Francisco stands eleventh, according to the census of \n1910, but in aggregate resources of all her national banks, she \nranks sixth among the cities of the country, being exceeded in \nthis respect only by New York, Chicago, Boston, Philadelphia \nand Pittsburg. At this writing clearings run over $50,000,000 \na week, and for 1912 almost equalled the combined clearings \nof the next largest six cities of the Pacific Coast. Comparative \nclearings of these cities for 1912 were as follows : \n\nSan Diego $ 131,265,154 \n\nOakland 192,71 1,075 \n\nTacoma 218,941,896 \n\nPortland 596,327,185 \n\nSeattle 602,430,660 \n\nLos Angeles 1,167,782,516 \n\nTotal $2,909,438,486 \n\nSan Francisco $2,677,561,952 \n\n\n\n204 Handboof( for San Francisco \n\nClearings for 1913 thus far show San Francisco to be the \nmost important banking center west of Kansas City, and eighth \namong the cities of the country. \n\nThe underwriting power of San Francisco has grown tre- \nmendously in the past few years as one success after another \nhas demonstrated the profitable nature of California develop- \nment enterprises when properly conceived and executed. In \n1912 this city stood third in the United States in the transac- \ntions of its bond market, being exceeded in this respect only \nby New York and Baltimore. \n\nThe San Francisco Chapter of the American Institute of \nBanf(ing (section of the American Bankers\' Association) is in \nthe eleventh year of its existence and has its office and library \nat 1 325 First National Bank Building, Post and Montgomery \nstreets. \n\nConsonant with their financial strength and the opportunities \npresented by the destruction of their old buildmgs, the down- \ntown banks of San Francisco are palatially and beautifully \nhoused. Every visitor should make the round of the banks, \nor at least look in upon them when passing, for they constitute \none of the most artistic features of the rebuilt city. \n\nForemost historically, in the financial section of the city, is \nthe Bank of California, National Association, at California \nand Sansome streets. \n\nThis institution was founded in 1 864 by William C. Ral- \nston and D. O. Mills, and for many years was the most active \nfactor in the financing of ore milling and other operations \nalong the famous Comstock lode, in Nevada. \n\nThe bank dominated the financial situation in the city during \nthe Comstock mining days of the "sixties" and "seventies," \nand is today the leading financial institution of the West. In \n1912 its total assets were nearly sixty millions. The building \nis imposing and beautiful. Notice its enormous columns and \nthe color harmonies of its interior. \n\nThe Wells Fargo Nevada National Bank, at the northeast \ncorner of Market and Montgomery streets, is another historic \n\n\n\nBanks and Finance 205 \n\n\n\ninstitution of the city, one of its elements, the Nevada Bank, \nhaving been founded during the bonanza days of the great \nComstock operators. Flood & O\'Brien, and Mackay & Fair. \nIt long occupied the famous old Nevada block on Montgomery \nstreet at the corner of Pine, destroyed by the fire of 1 906. \n\nFirst National Bank of San Francisco, Montgomery and \nPost streets. The oldest national bank in California. Its \nbeautiful building stands on the site of the old Masonic Tem- \nple. \n\nCrocker National Bank of San Francisco, Post and Market \nstreets. The building is particularly fine. It survived the \nfire, structurally unharmed, but the interior was burned out \nand had to be renewed. \n\nMerchants National Bank^ at the corner of Market and \nNew Montgomery streets. Formerly the Western Metropolis \nNational Bank. \n\nThe Mutual Savings Bank is at 706 Market street, just \nabove Kearny. \n\nThe Union Trust Company of San Francisco formerly occu- \npied the location of the Wells Fargo Nevada National Bank, \nand erected its present building at Grant avenue and Market \nstreets after the fire. This is one of the chief ornaments of \nMarket street. \n\nSavings Union Bank and Trust Company, Grant avenue \nand O\'Farrell streets. The pediment was designed by Haig \nPatigan. Notice the bronze doors, designed by Arthur \nMatthews, their panels representing the Indian, the Spaniard, \nthe American and the spirit of the new San Francisco. The \nreception room of the safe deposit department is decorated with \na mural painting of St. Francis, also by Matthews. \n\nThe Humboldt Savings Bank occupies its own building, an \n1 8-story structure, which was in course of erection at the \ntime of the fire and was completed immediately afterward, at \n783 Market street. \n\nFarther up Market street, at its junction with McAllister \nand Jones, is the \n\n\n\n206 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nHibernia Savings and Loan Society. This is one of the \ncity\'s oldest and most substantial organizations engaged in the \nsavings bank business. The conspicuous feature of the exterior \nis the dome surmounting the McAllister and Jones street corner, \nwhich is of handsome design and is covered with gold leaf. \nThe classic composition of its single story is most beautiful and \neffective. \n\n\n\n\nINTERIOR OF A SAN FRANCISCO BANK. \n\nThe German Savings and Loan Society^, at 526 California \nstreet between Montgomery and Kearny, is one of the city\'s \nimportant savings institutions and its interior decoration scheme, \nin dim gold and old ivory tones, is very attractive. \n\nThe Anglo and London Paris National Bank, at the corner \nof Sansome and Sutter streets, is one of the city\'s gems of \narchitecture, a remarkably harmonious and beautiful composi- \ntion, both in proportions and embellishment. \n\n\n\nBanks and Finance 207 \n\n\n\nThe Bank of Daniel Me-^er, at 224 Pine street, is an old \ninstitution that has had much to do with State development. \n\nThe International Banking Corporation, in the Mills build- \ning, corner of Bush and Montgomery streets, is the San Fran- \ncisco branch of the main organization, through which it has \nmany Oriental connections. \n\nThe Italian banks, in the vicinity of Montgomery street and \nColumbus avenue, are among the finest in the city. These are: \n\nBank of Italy, at Montgomery and Clay streets. The build- \ning is a stately structure strictly Italian in feeling, with an \ninterior finished in Sienna marble. This bank has a branch at \nMason and Market streets, in the heart of the business district. \n\nThe Italian American Bank is at Montgomery and Sacra- \nmento streets. This is a fine building in Italian renaissance \nstyle. The two granite columns in front are the largest and \ntallest monolithic columns in San Francisco. This is the only \nrepresentative on the coast of the Banco di Napoli. \n\nFugazi Banca Popolare Operaia Italiana. Gore of Mont- \ngomery street and Columbus avenue. The building is very \nhandsome, the interior finish being of Grecian marble. \n\nThe Mercantile Trust Company of San Francisco and Mer- \ncantile National Bank of San Francisco occupy a beautiful \nbuilding opposite the Merchants\' Exchange, at 464 California \nstreet, near Montgomery. \n\nThe French Bank of Savings, at 1 08 Sutter street, does a \ncommercial business also. It is the largest French savings bank \noutside of France. \n\nThe Canadian Bank of Commerce is at California and \nLeidesdorff streets. This is a branch of the Canadian Bank of \nCommerce of Toronto. \n\nBank of British North America, Battery and California \nstreets. The American head office of this bank is at Montreal, \nand the court of directors is at London. \n\nThe Mission Bank is at Sixteenth street and Julian avenue, \nbetween Mission and Valencia streets. \n\n\n\n208 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nThe Canton Bank, ^ Chinese institution, is at 653 Kearny \nstreet. \n\nThe Yokohama Specie Bank is situated at the corner of \nSansome and Commercial streets. \n\nOther banks and trust companies of San Francisco are the \n\nAmerican National Bank of San Francisco, Merchants\' \nExchange building, California and Leidesdorff streets. \n\nCalifornia Savings and Loan Society, 801 Van Ness avenue. \n\nColumbus Savings and Loan Society, 700 Montgomery \nstreet. \n\nPacific States Savings and Loan Society, 550 California \nstreet. \n\nPortuguese-American Bank of San Francisco, Front and \nCommercial streets. \n\nSeaboard National Bank, Market and Steuart streets. \n\nSecurity Savings Bank, 3 1 6 Montgomery. \n\nAnglo California Trust Company, Market and Sansome. \n\nDonohoe, Kelly Banking Company, Montgomery and Sutter. \n\nFirst Federal Trust Company, Post and Montgomery. \n\nHong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, 401 Mont- \ngomery. \n\nMarine Trust and Savings Bank, 100 Market. \n\nSwiss- American Bank, 12 Sansome street. \n\n\n\nSOME FRATERNAL AND ASSOCIATION \nBUILDINGS. \n\nIn the rebuilding of San Francisco it became a matter of \nlocal pride with associations and fraternal orders to replace \ntheir old homes in the manner most creditable to the city. \nAmong directors and boards of trustees there reigned the spirit \nof civic renaissance, a spirit that was one with the past, but \nunhampered by it, and that was determined on taking every \nadvantage of this exceptional opportunity to create anew. As \na result, the city is graced with some of the finest semi-public \n\n\n\nSome Fraternal Buildings 209 \n\nbuildings to be found, structures embodying original design, \nand new ideas in adornment as well as in facilities for serving \ntheir various objects. One of the few buildings in America \ncomparable to some of the good buildings in Europe is the \nMasonic Temple at Oak street and Van Ness avenue. \n\nFrom the corner of its broad, white walls a canopied King \nSolomon looks down upon the modern city traffic. It is by \nAdolph Alexander Weinman, the New York sculptor. The \ncanopy itself is adorned with sculptured angels, and with \nenshrined allegorical figures, of which the man with the capital \nrepresents the Builder; the one with the book. Social Order; \nthe one with the lyre. Reverence for the Beauty of the World; \nthe one with his hands on his breast, Reverence for the Mys- \ntery of the Heavens. These are by Ralph Stadpole of San \nFrancisco. There are six figures, but two are duplicates. \n\nThe dominating feature of the exterior is the machicolated \nparapet, carried around the top instead of a cornice. It is in \nthe style of the one on the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio of \nFlorence, and other structures of that period, and has a medie- \nval militant suggestion, as of the piety and valor of the Temple \nKnights whose gilded shields hang on the face of it. \n\nThe entrance is through a noble portal, under a semi-circular \nhood supported on corbels formed by the stone figures of lions. \nUnder the ornate receding arches the tympanum shows an \nallegory in relief, also by Weinman, consisting of three figures \nof Charity, Fortitude and Truth. Beneath, the lintel bears a \nrow of nine smaller figures, by Stadpole, representing David, \nAbraham, St. John the Divine, Nathan the prophet, Moses, \nAaron, St. John the Baptist, Joseph, and Jonathan. \n\nThe principal feature of the interior is the great Commandery \nHall, 60 feet wide, 72 feet long, and rising from the level of \nthe third story 85 feet to the summit of the dome that one can \nsee from almost every hill-top in the city. The wall spaces \nare decorated with mural paintings by Arthur Matthews. \n\n\n\n2 1 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nThe architects of the Masonic Temple were Bliss & Faville. \n\nAmong other fine buildings of this semi-public character are \nScottish Rite Temple, Van Ness avenue and Sutter street; Odd \nFellows Hall, Seventh and Market; Knights of Columbus Hall, \n150 Golden Gate avenue; building of the Native Sons of the \nGolden West, 430 Mason street; German House, Polk and \nTurk streets; Elks Hall, 540 Powell street. \n\nThe Young Mens Christian Association has one of the finest \nbuildings of its kind in the world, at Golden Gate avenue and \nLeavenworth streets. Here is a large gymnasium with a salt \nwater swimming tank, and there are bowling alleys, handball \ncourts, a billiard room and facilities for all sorts of social gath- \nerings and receptions. \n\nThe Young Women\'s Christian Association has its home at \n1 249 to I 259 O\'Farrell street, where it maintains a boarding \nhome for young business women, and an employment bureau. \nTo reach it \n\nTake an^ Market street car from the Ferry to Fourth and \nEllis streets, transfer to Line No. 20 or 21 , get off at Cough \nand O\'Farrell and rvalk half a block west. From Third and \nTownsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to \nCough and walk half a block west. \n\nTravelers\' Aid secretaries of the Y. W. C. A. meet steam- \ners and trains. \n\nThe Young Mens Institute has its home at 92 Sanchez \nstreet. \n\nThe Independent Order B\'nai B\'rith, rebuilt on its old site \nafter the fire, at 1 49 Eddy street, between Mason and Taylor, \na fine building that is an ornament to the neighborhood. \n\n\n\nEDUCATIONAL FACILITIES. \n\nEarly San Franciscans that wished to put their sons in col- \nlege used to send them to Honolulu, but California has probably \nadvanced more rapidly in the field of education than any other \n\n\n\nEducational Facilities 211 \n\nphase of development, and ranks today in this respect with \nthe most progressive eastern states. The disbursement of State \nrevenue for this purpose is heavier than for all other items com- \nbined; over $15,000,000 for the biennial period 1913-14. \n\nThe two great universities and one women\'s college of the \nPacific Coast are situated in suburbs of San Francisco, while \nin the city itself the best of instruction can be obtained in \nalmost everything teachable, from music to navigation. Instruc- \ntion in the universities is free to citizens of the State. \n\nThe public free school system of San Francisco is extensive \nand efficient, and includes four high schools whose graduates \ncan matriculate at the universities without other examination. \nThis was the first city in the United States to establish a free \nschool of navigation. \n\nThere is a fine High School of Commerce. The State Nor- \nmal School at San Francisco is conducted by one of the most \nprogressive educators in the country. The Cogswell Polytech- \nnic College, the Wilmerding School of Industrial Arts and \nthe California School of Mechanical Arts, (endowed by James \nLick), and the Lux School of Industrial Training for Girls, \nare unexcelled. These are all free schools. \n\nThere are business colleges, dramatic schools, art schools, \nand a noted Conservatory of Music. And in the suburbs are \nexcellent academies such as the Belmont School for Boys, at \nBelmont, the Mt. Tamalpais Military Academy, near San \nRafael; St. Matthew\'s Military School, at Burlingame, and \nmany fine schools and seminaries for young ladies. \n\nThe professional schools of San Francisco hold high rank. \nAmong them are: \n\nHastings College of the LaTV, 166 Geary street; the law \ndepartment of the University of California. \n\nHahnemann Medical College of the Pacific, Sacramento \nand Maple streets; homeopathic. \n\n* Leland Stanford Junior University Department of Medicine, \n(formerly Cooper Medical College), at Sacramento and Web- \n\n\n\n2 1 2 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nster streets, with the largest universit}\' medical library in the \ncountry. \n\nUniversity of California Medical department and Hospital \n(formerly Toland Medical College), at Affiliated Colleges, \nParnassus avenue, opposite Second avenue. Here are also \nthe departments of Dentistry and Pharmacy. \n\nCollege of Physicians and Surgeons, 344 Fourteenth street; \nwith Dentistry and Pharmacy departments. \n\nPolyclinic Post Graduate Medical Department of the Uni- \nversity of California, 443 Fillmore street. \n\n\n\nUNIVERSITIES AND COLLEGES. \n\nUniversity of California. At Berkeley, Alameda county; \nacross the bay from San Francisco, and about a 45 minute \nride by ferry and suburban electric train. To reach it, \n\nTaf^e Southern Pacific ferry or Key System ferry, at the foot \nof Market street, and Berkeley train at the pier on the opposite \nside of the bay. \n\nThe University of California is one of the foremost Ameri- \ncan institutions of learning. Its graduate astronomical depart- \nment is the Lick Observatory on Mt. Hamilton, where Bernard \ndiscovered the fifth satellite of Jupiter. Its College of Agri- \nculture was the first agricultural experiment station established \nin this country, and enlisted the services of such eminent stu- \ndents of the subject as E. W. Hilgard, long recognized as \nthe world\'s greatest authority on soils, and E. J. Wickson, a \nleader and an authority in horticulture. The Le Conte broth- \ners, John famous as a physicist, and Joseph as a geologist and \none of the earliest teachers of evolution, spent their productive \nyears in the faculty of this university. Frank Norris, the nov- \nelist, Samuel E. Moffett, the publicist, and Josiah Royce, the \nphilosopher, studied here, and Edward Rowland Sill, the \n"poet\'s poet," was an instructor in the English department. \nJacques Loeb, the great biologist, was a member of the faculty. \n\n\n\nUniversities and Colleges \n\n\n\n213 \n\n\n\nAll over the world \xe2\x80\x94 in Alaska, China, South Africa \xe2\x80\x94 \ncan be found the graduate engineers of its famous school of \nmines. \n\nTuition is free to residents of California, the institution \nbeing supported by the state and by private endowments. Non- \nresidents of the state pay $10 half-yearly. Expenses in the \ncollege town of Berkeley are comparatively light. \n\n\n\n\nUNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY, BERKELEY. \n\nThe university is coeducational. \n\nIn 1912-13 the enrollment aggregated 6,457, the largest \nin the country with the single exception of Columbia. \n\nThe Summer School at the University of Cahfornia is the \nlargest of its kind, and it attracts more than two thousand stu- \ndents every year, from all parts of the United States. Among \nthe teachers have been such men as Svant A. Arrhenius of \nStockholm; Boltzmann, the Austrian scientist; Hugo De Vries \nof Amsterdam; John Adam of the University of London; \nJosiah Royce, Frederick Jackson Turner, Albert Bushnell \n\n\n\n214 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nHart, and Barrett Wendell of Harvard; Spaeth and Axon of \nPrinceton; William Lyon Phelps of Yale. \n\nThe tuition fee is $15, and there are laboratory fees in \nsome of the courses. \n\nThe site of the University is a noble expanse of 520 acres \nin the rolling hills of Berkeley, looking over the Bay of San \nFrancisco. The town takes its name from the institution, and \nthe institution from the great transcendentalist, the Bishop of \nCloyne. \' ] \n\nA day can be spent most profitably and enjoyably, strolling \namid the giant oaks of the campus, some of them centuries old, \nand visiting the library and collections and the famous Hearst \nGreek Theater. (See Berkeley, in index.) \n\nLeland Stanford Junior University. At Palo Alto, San \nMateo county, Cal,, 30 miles south of San Francisco. A visit \nthere makes a fine day\'s outing. To reach it \n\nTake Southern Pacific train on the Coast Division, at Third \nend ToTvnsend depot. There are 21 trains on week da\\)s and \n1 5 on Sundays, and the trip takes about an hour and five min- \nutes. \n\nThis institution is a point of pride with Californians, and \nalthough younger than the University of California it occu- \npies an equally erninenl position in the world of education. \nIts great endowment of $25,000,000 has enabled it to attract \nfamous teachers. Its teaching stafF is one of the strongest in \nthe country. It is coeducational, but the number of women \nstudents is limited to 500. \n\nThe university is located on the "Palo Alto Farm" of the \nlate Senator Leland Stanford, by whom and by his wife, Jane \nLathrop Stanford, it was endowed in memory of Leland Stan- \nford Jr., who died in his sixteenth year. \n\nThe grounds consist of over 7,000 acres, partly rising into \nthe foothills of the Santa Clara range. \n\nAll the subjects of a full college course are offered here, \nand tuition is free except for an Incidental and Guild fee of \n\n\n\nUniversities and Colleges \n\n\n\n215 \n\n\n\n$17 half yearly, and charges in the departments of law and \nmedicine. \n\nAn adaptation of the mission style of architecture has been \nemployed on the campus with fine effect. The Memorial \nChurch bears on pediment and interior walls, some of the most \nbeautiful mosaics in the world. \n\n\n\n\nLELAND STANFORD JUNIOR UNIVERSITY. \n\n\n\nThe Leland Stanford Junior Museum, containing the arch- \neological and art collections of the university, is situated a \nquarter of a mile north and a little west of the Quadrangles. \nIt grew from the collection begun by Leland Stanford, Jr. \nHere is preserved the skeleton of the great sire of trotting horses. \nElectioneer, of much interest to breeders. There are also in- \nteresting collections of Chinese and Japanese art, and the Di \nCesnola collection of Greek and Roman pottery. \n\nIn 191 1-12 the number of students enrolled was 1774, of \nwhom 2 1 6 were graduate students. \n\n\n\n216 \n\n\n\nHandbooI( for San Francisco \n\n\n\nCalifornia is fortunate in having two such universities, each \nof which is a stimulus to the other. \n\nMills College (formerly Mills Seminary). Situated in the \nfoothill region east of Oakland, about an hour\'s ride from San \nFrancisco. To reach it. \n\nTake Southern Pacific jerry at the foot of Market street, \nfor Alameda pier, and there change to train marked \'\'Oakland \n\n\n\n\nCAMPANILE AT JIILLS COLLEGE, OAKLAND. \n\nFourteenth 5/." (on a red disk) ^hich runs to Fourteenth and \nFranklin streets, Oakland. At Thirteenth and Franklin, a \nblock south, take the Mills College car (trolley^). Or, take \n/Cep Sy^stem ferry, foot of Market street, and electric train on \nthe Key System pier, for Trvelfth and Broadway, Oakland. \nRemain on this car until it gets to First avenue, and there \nchange to Mills College car. \n\n\n\nUniversities and Colleges 2 1 7 \n\nMills is the only college exclusively for women, west of the \nRocky Mountains. Its students come from the entire west; \nfrom British Columbia to San Diego; from Chicago to Hon- \nolulu and Japan. Matriculation requirements are the same as \nfor the University of California and Stanford. \n\nThe college grounds, secluded, yet accessible, comprise about \n1 50 acres of charming country, with green lawns, palms, rose \ngardens, fine woodland and beautiful streams. \n\nThe institution is the outgrowth of Mills Seminary, estab- \nlished at Seminary Park, by Rev. Cyrus R. Mills and Mrs. \nSusan L. Mills in 1871, and modelled on the plan of Mount \nHolyoke. Dr. Mills and his wife brought the institution from \nBenicia, where it had existed as a Young Ladies\' Seminary \nsince 1852. It became Mills College in 1911. As such, \nit is recognized the country over as a standard college and was \nclassed by the United States Commissioner of Education in \nhis report for 1910 among the leading sixteen women\'s col- \nleges. \n\nUniversity of St. Ignatius, at 2211 Hayes street, corner of \nShrader, opposite St. Mary\'s Hospital. \nHa})es and Ellis car. Line No. 21. \n\nThis institution has been in temporary quarters since the \ngreat fire, but will soon build at Fulton and Parker avenues, \non the block where St. Ignatius church is now rising. It was \nfounded in 1855 and empowered by the state to confer uni- \nversity degrees in 1 859. \n\nOnly male students are admitted, and these only as day \nscholars. Tuition, $50 or $80 a year, according to course. \n\nSt. Mar})\'s College (conducted by the Brothers of the \nChristian Schools), Broadway, between Hawthorne and Or- \nchard streets, Oakland. \n\nTake Southern Pacific ferr^, foot of Market street, and elec- \ntric train to Seventh and Broadway, Oakland. There take \ntrolley car running out Broadway. Or take Key System ferry \n\n\n\n2 1 8 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nand Oakland train n>ith red sign for Trveniy-second and Broad- \nway, and there take Broadrva\'^ trolle\'y. \n\nSt. Mary\'s is empowered to confer all academic degrees, \nand is in fact a university without the title. Instruction, board \nand lodging are at the rate of $1 75 per semester. \n\nUniversity of Santa Clara. In the Santa Clara valley, 44 \nmiles south of San Francisco and adjacent to the old mission \ntown of Santa Clara ; a ride of about an hour and thirty-five \nminutes. \n\nSouthern Pacific train on Coast Division, to Santa Clara \nstation. \n\nThis is the oldest chartered institution of learning in the \nWest, having been founded by the Franciscan fathers De La \nPena and Murguia on January 12, 1 777. \n\nResident students pay at the rate of $200 per half year \nterm, with a matriculation fee of $15, payable but once, and \nan athletic fee of $2.50 per term. This covers board, lodging, \ntuition and laundry. Non-resident fees are less, in proportion. \n\n\n\nHOSPITALS AND SANATORIA. \n\nSan Francisco, since early days, has taken high rank for \nthe skill of its physicians and the quality of its medical and \nsurgical facilities. Dentistry and oral surgery have been \nbrought to a high stage of development. Persons requiring \nsurgical operations come to San Francisco from the entire west \ncoast of North and South America. \n\nFine hospital buildings, new, sanitary, and with every mod- \nern appliance, have been erected in large numbers since the \nfire, and under the building laws of the city are, of necessity, of \nth best modern steel and fire-proof construction. There are \nfew important hospitals in the city are are more than seven \nyears old, and when the owners of the new structures planned \nthem they were able to avail themselves of the best in equip- \n\n\n\nHospitals and Sanatoria 219 \n\nment and arrangement that human experience could suggest. \nSpace will not permit us to list all in the city, but these are \namong the leading institutions of the kind: \n\nAdler Sanatorium, northeast corner of Van Ness avenue \nand Broadway. \n\nChildren\'s Hospital, Alexander Maternity Cottage, Train- \ning School for Nurses. At 3700 California street, corner of \nMaple. \n\nC//\\j and County Hospital. Occupies the block bounded \nby Potrero avenue and Twenty-second, Twenty-third and Ver- \nmont streets. \n\nThis hospital cost $2,000,000 to construct, is entirely new, \nand is probably the finest municipal institution of its kind. \n\nFlorence N. Ward Sanatorium. At 1195 Bush street, cor- \nner of Hyde. \n\nFrench Hospital, "Maison de Sante de la Societe Francaise \nde Bienfaisance Mutuelle." Geary street (Point Lobos avenue) \nbetween Fifth and Sixth avenues. \n\nGerman Hospital. Fourteenth and Noe streets. \n\nHahnemann Hospital. Northeast corner of California and \nMaple streets. \n\nLane Hospital. Clay and Webster streets. X-ray, clinical \nand pathological laboratories under direction of the medical \ndepartment of Leland Stanford Junior University. \n\nLetterman General Hospital. (United States Army) Pre- \nsidio military reservation. \n\nThis is the largest American army hospital, and cost approx- \nimately half a million dollars. There is bed capacity for 500, \nand the accommodations can be expanded to take care of \n1,000. \n\nMcNutt Hospital, at 1055 Pine street, between Jones and \nTaylor. \n\nMorton Hospital. At 775 Cole street. \n\nEmployes of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railway \nneeding hospital services in San Francisco are accommodated \nhere. \n\n\n\n220 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nMount Zion Hospital. At 2341 Sutter street, near Divisa- \ndero. A new building is in course of construction at Post and \nScott streets. \n\n5^ Francis Hospital. Bush and Hyde streets. \nSt. Joseph\'s Hospital. Park Hill and Buena Vista avenues. \nConducted by the Franciscan Sisters of the Sacred Heart. \n5/. Lukes Hospital. Twenty-seventh and Valencia streets. \nSt. Marys Hospital. Hayes and Stanyan streets, opposite \nthe east end of Golden Gate Park. Conducted by the Sisters \nof Mercy. \n\nSaint Winifred\'s Hospital. At 1 065 Sutter street, between \nHyde and Larkin. \n\nSouthern Pacific Hospital. At Fell and Baker streets. \n\nExclusively for employes of the Southern Pacific railroad. \nOne of the best railroad hospitals ever built. \n\nTrinity Hospital. At 1 500 Page street, corner of Masonic \navenue. \n\nUnited States Marine Hospital. On the Marine Hospital \nreservation adjoining the Presidio of San Francisco. For the \ncare and treatment of seamen from the Merchant Marine. \n\nUniversity of California Hospital. Second and Parnassus \navenues. \n\nThis is the hospital of the Affiliated Colleges of the Uni- \nversity of California. \n\nFive emergency hospitals are maintained by the municipality \nin different parts of the city. They are located as follows: \n\nCentral Emergency Hospital. Stevenson street, near Eighth. \n\nHarbor Emergency Hospital. No. 7 Clay street. \n\nPark Emergency Hospital. Stanyan street near Waller, \nclose to the Haight street entrance to Golden Gate Park. \n\nPotrero Emergency Hospital. 1 1 52 Kentucky street. \n\nMission Emergency Hospital. Twenty-third street and Po- \ntrero avenue. \n\n\n\nlelegraph and Express Offices 22 1 \n\nTELEGRAPH, CABLE AND EXPRESS OFFICES. \n\nWestern Union Telegraph Co. Main office. Pine and Mont- \ngomery. Messages can be telephoned in by calling for "West- \nern Union." Always open. \n\nAmerican District Telegraph Company messengers furnished \nat all Western Union offices. \n\nFederal Telegraph Co., Merchants\' Exchange building; 9 \na. m. to 5 :30 p. m. \n\nI 49 Montgomery. 7 a. m. to 8 p. m. ; Sundays 1 a. m \nto 2 p. m., and 4 p. m. to 8 p. m. \n\nMarconi Wireless Telegraph Co. of America, Merchants\' \nExchange building. Office 8:30 to 5:30. Station always \nopen. \n\nPostal Telegraph Cable Co., N. E. corner Market and Bat- \ntery (main office). Always open. \n\n\n\nEXPRESS OFFICES. \n\nAdams Express Co. Tracing, delivery and claim depart- \nment, 54 Post street. Wagon and call department. Ferry \nbuilding. Money orders, travelers\' checks, foreign postal remit- \ntances, money paid by telegraph. \n\nGlobe Express Co. Tracing, delivery and claim department, \n54 Post street. General Superintendent\'s office. Mills building. \nWagon and call department. Ferry building. Money orders, \ntravelers\' checks, foreign postal remittances, money paid by \ntelegraph. \n\nWells Fargo & Company. Main office. Second and Mis- \nsion streets. Money orders, travelers\' checks, foreign postal \nremittances, money paid by telegraph. \n\n\n\n222 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nSAN FRANCISCO\'S PRINCIPAL STEAMSHIP \nCONNECTIONS. \n\nPASSENGERS AND FREIGHT. \n\nAlaska Pacific Steamship Company. For Seattle, Tacoma \nand Alaska. Howard street wharf. Ticket office, 654 \nMarket. \n\nIndependent Steamship Company. For San Pedro. How- \nard street wharf. Ticket office, 648 Market. \n\nMatson Navigation Company. For the Hawaiian Islands \xe2\x80\x94 \nHonolulu, Port Allen, Kahului, Kaanapoli and Hilo. Ticket \noffice, 268 Market. \n\nNorth Pacific Steamship Company. For Portland, Eureka, \nSan Diego, San Pedro, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo. \nVallejo street wharf. Ticket office, 654 Market, and 3 \nMarket. \n\nOceanic Steamship Company. For Honolulu, Pago Pago \nand Samoa, and Australia. California and Davis street. Tick- \net office, 673 Market. \n\nPacific Coast Steamship Company. For Los Angeles, Santa \nBarbara, San Diego, Seattle, Tacoma, Victoria, Vancouver \nand Alaska. 112 Market, 653 Market and Broadway \nwharf. \n\nPacific Mail Steamship Company. For Honolulu, Japan \nand China, Mexico, Central America and Panama. Flood \nbuilding. Market and Powell street. Ticket office, 722 Mar- \nket. \n\nPacific Navigation Company. For San Pedro and San \nDiego. Pacific street wharf. Ticket office, 680 Market. \n\nSan Francisco and Portland Steamship Company. For Los \nAngeles, Portland and Astoria. Flood building, Powell and \nMarket. \n\nToyo Kisen Kaisha. For Honolulu, China and Japan. \nMerchants\' National Bank building, 631 Market. \n\n\n\nSteamship Connections 223 \n\n\n\nUnion Steamship Company of New Zealand. Hind, Rolph \n& Co., agents. For Tahiti, New Zealand and Australia. 310 \nCalifornia. Ticket office, 679 Market. \n\nFREIGHT. \n\nAmerican-Hawaiian Steamship Company. For Puget Sound, \nHawaii and Salina Cruz, Mexico. Greenwich street wharf \nand 3 1 Sansome. \n\nEast Asiatic Companies, Ltd. From Europe via Straits of \nMagellan. Parrott & Co., agents, 320 California. \n\nHarrison Line. For Europe, Los Angeles, Portland, Seat- \ntle, Tacoma, Vancouver, Balfour, Guthrie & Co., agents. \n350 California. \n\nKosmos Line. For South American ports and Europe, 1 58 \nCalifornia street. \n\nLucl^enbach Steamship Company. For New York, via \nPanama. Merchants\' Exchange building, 431 California. \n\nMaple Leaf Line. For Europe. E. C. Evans & Sons, \nagents, 260 California. \n\nPollard Steamship Company. For Grays Harbor, Tacoma, \nSeattle, Vancouver, Victoria. 244 California. \n\nRobert Dollar Company. For China and Japan. 1 60 \nCalifornia. \n\nW. R. Grace & Co. (New York and Pacific Steamship \nCompany). For New York, Seattle, Peru, Bolivia, Chile. \nCalifornia and Battery. \n\nIn addition to the above there is a large number of lumber \nand other vessels running from San Francisco to various coast \nports. \n\n\n\nCLUBS AND SOCIETIES. \n\nIn San Francisco, club life presents extraordinary distinc- \ntion and charm. Out of the marked individuality of the peo- \nple and their socially stimulating environment have arisen such \nfamous organizations as the Bohemian Club, the Family Club, \nthe Commonwealth, the Olympic and others. \n\n\n\n224 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nWe can not present a complete club directory, but may \nmention some of the most distinctive and interesting, as indi- \ncative of the social condition of the community. Lodge meet- \ning notices of all the more important fraternal orders will be \nfound in the daily papers. \n\nPacific Union Club. Occupying what was once the brown \nstone mansion of the Comstock mining operator, James C. \nFlood, on California street between Mason and Cushman \nstreets, across from the Fairmont hotel. There is probably no \nclub in the world that has such a spacious and beautiful home. \n\nBohemian Club. At Post and Taylor streets. This is the \nmost famous club in San Francisco, and one of the really great \nclubs of the world. Its home in the city is embellished with \nsculptures by some of its members, and decorated with sketches \nin the gayest spirit, illustrative of Bohemian club life. \n\nThe mid-summer grove-play of this organization, concluding \nwith the "Cremation of Care," is world-famous. The festival \nis held in a magnificent 240-acre grove of California redwoods, \nwhich the club owns, near Monte Rio, in Sonoma county. \n\nMembers camp here for two weeks, and the festival concludes \nwith a dramatic performance staged amid great redwoods on \na sloping hillside, forming a vast stage-set beyond the facilities \nof any theater to produce. The grove-play of the Bohemian \nClub is a distinctly Californian art growth, and yet such a thing \nas might have been born in the golden age of Greece. The \ntext is always written by a member, and the music is also the \nwork of a member. Members take the parts, and none but \nmembers and visitors with cards of membership, are privileged \nto witness it. \n\nOlympic Club. At 524 Post street. This is the oldest \nexisting amateur athletic organization in the world and one of \nthe greatest. It was formed May 6, 1 860, and antedates the \noldest athletic organizations of New York and London by \nseveral years. Burned out by the fire of 1 906, it rebuilt on \nthe old site. The corner-stone of the present building was laid \nMay 6, 1911, and the club reopened on June 15, 1912. \n\n\n\nClubs and Societies 225 \n\n\n\nIn its long life the Olympic has contributed much to the \nmovement in favor of athletics, and clean athletics, throughout \nthe country. It has produced great boxers and wrestlers; and \nsuch famous track athletes at Robert Haley, Peter Gerhardt, \nV. E. Schifferstein and Jack Nelson, the *\'even time" men, \nwho could run 1 00 yards in ten seconds, or 220 in 22. Ralph \nRose, the world\'s champion shot putter, was a member of this \nclub, and so is George Horine, champion high jumper of the \nworld, both of whom represented the United States at the \nOlympic games at Stockholm in 1912. \n\nThe club house is one of the most beautifully furnished and \nappointed buildings in the city. \n\nProbably the pride of the place is the swimming plunge, 1 00 \nfeet long and 35 feet wide, in a spacious Italian marble cham- \nber. The pool is filled daily with salt water pumped from \nthe ocean. \n\nThe membership of the Olympic club is over 2,400 \xe2\x80\x94 larger \nthan that of any other men\'s athletic club in America except \nthe New York Athletic. \n\nUniversity Club. Corner of Powell and California streets. \nMore members of the city\'s younger university men can be \nfound here than at any other gathering place in San Francisco. \n\nThe University of California Club has its home at 212 \nStockton street. \n\nUnion League Club, with handsomely appointed quarters \nat the corner of Powell and O\'Farrell streets, in the downtown \nsection. \n\nThe Southern Club has a beautiful home at California and \nJones streets with a classic portico suggesting colonial times and \nthe *\'days before the war." \n\nPress Club of San Francisco. Southwest corner of Sutter \nand Powell streets. The Press Club is allied with the Friars \nClub of New York. The membership is well over 450, and \nincludes former Presidents Taft and Roosevelt and Secretary \nKnox. The club holds an annual show on the 1 7th of April \n\n\n\n226 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nat one of the down town theaters. The new quarters are hand- \nsome and commodious. \n\nFamily Club. Corner of Bush and Powell streets. This \nis one of the clubs that join the country feature to the city \nphase of club life. It owns a beautiful "Farm" with a red- \nwood grove, in Woodside canyon, back of Redwood City, \nSan Mateo county. \n\nSan Francisco Commercial Club. On the fourteenth floor \nof the Merchants Exchange building, 431 California street. \nThis is an association of about 1450 of the leading business \nmen of the city. \n\nTransportation Club of San Francisco. Mezzanine floor of \nthe Palace Hotel. \n\nConcordia Club. This is one of the leading Jewish social \norganizations of the city. It is located at 1 1 42 Van Ness \navenue, between Post and Geary. \n\nArgonaut Club. At Post and Powell. Another well- \nknown Jewish club, which grew out of the San Francisco \nVerein, organized in 1853 \xe2\x80\x94 one of the earliest social organiza- \ntions in the community, if not the oldest. \n\nAlliance Francaise. Headquarters for San Francisco are \nat 108 Sutter street; French- American Bank building. \n\nAd Mens Club. Secretary, Frederick S. Nelson, 121 Post \nstreet. \n\nPacific Aero Club. In room 730 Pacific building, at Fourth \nand Market streets. Affiliated with the Aero Club of America, \nand through that organization with the Federation Aeronautique \nInternationale. \n\nSierra Club. This is one of the celebrated mountaineering \nclubs of the world, and the second largest in the United States. \nIts summer outings, which travelers come from almost every \ncountry to join, ofl^er facilities for mountain climbing and ex- \nploration that would be unattainable without it. \n\nThe president is John Muir, author of several works descrip- \ntive of the Sierra and their Big Tree groves; "The Mountains \nof California," "Our National Parks," "My First Summer in \n\n\n\nCluhs and Societies 227 \n\n\n\nthe Sierra," and \'The Yosemite." The secretary Is Wilham \nE. Colby, 604 Mills building. Bush and Montgomery streets. \nThe club has its city headquarters in the Mills building, room \n402, where members and visitors may consult its remarkable \ncollection of books, maps, exchanges and photographs relating \nto mountaineering; and it also has mountain headquarters, dur- \ning the months of heaviest travel, in the Le Conte Memorial \nLodge, Yosemite Valley, where there is a library and a readmg \nroom and where the club\'s custodian is always prepared to \nfurnish practical data about the mountains. In fact, the most \nserviceable information on all phases of California mountaineer- \ning can always be obtained from this organization. \n\nCalifornia Camera Cluh. At 833 Market street, between \nFourth and Fifth. Visitors to San Francisco interested m \nphotograph are invited to call at the club rooms. This club is \nprobably unique, and in membership is the largest organization \nof camera artists in the country. It is not only a rendezvous \nfor advanced photographers, but a school for the beginner and \nthe amateur, where every convenience has been assembled for \nphotographic work. There is a fine library of reference works \n\non photography. \n\nCommonrvealth Cluh of California, At 153 Kearny street. \nThis is an active and vigorous organization for the study and \ndiscussion of problems affecting the community with a view to \nassisting in their solution. Students of such subjects may con- \nsult the club\'s growing library on political, economic and socio- \nlogical topics, at the rooms, which are open from 9 a. m. to 5 \np. m., week days, except Saturday, when they close at 3 p. m. \n\nLocal Council of Women, member of the National Council. \nPresident, Miss Jessica Lee Briggs, 1942 A Hyde street; cor- \nresponding secretary, Mrs. Augusta Jones. 2524 Clay street. \nThis body represents between 2,500 and 3,000 women, bemg \na federation of the women\'s clubs of the city. \n\nAcademy of Sciences. 343 Sansome street. Soon to erect \na fine steel-framed building near the Francis Scott Key Monu- \nment in Golden Gate Park, where its large natural history col- \n\n\n\n228 Handbook, for San Francisco \n\nlections will be housed. Its collection of water-fowl is said to \nbe the best in the world, \n\nSan Francisco Turn Verein. At 2450 Sutter street, between \nDivisadero and Broderick. Accessible from the hotel district \ntij Sutter street cars on Lines Nos. 1 or 2. \n\nColumbia Park Bo})s\' Club of San Francisco. At 458 \nGuerrero street, between Sixteenth and Seventeenth. \n\nValencia street car. Line No. 9, to Sixteenth, and walk one \nblock ^^5/ to Guerrero; or Fillmore street line to Sixteenth and \nGuerrero; also b^ lines 10 or 26, on Mission street, to Seven- \nteenth and Guerrero. Visitors are always welcome. Mem- \nbership is limited to those under 1 2 years. There are no dues, \nbut personal service is exacted from every member. The boys \nare called upon continually to assist in charitable enterprises, \nand through their bands, chorals and athletic and dramatic per- \nformances have been able to earn their way on travel tours to \nevery city and town in the State, along the west coast as far \nas Seattle, east as far as New York, and across the Pacific and \nthroughout Australasia. At this writing a number of them are \non a tour of the world, and in England were entertained on Sir \nThomas Lipton\'s yacht. \n\nThe work is in progress after 3:30 every day except Satur- \ndays and Sundays. There is military drill at 1 1 o\'clock Satur- \nday. Visitors are always welcome. \n\nCaledonian Club of San Francisco. Meets the first and \nthird Fridays of the month at 121 Larkin street, one block \nnorth of Market. \n\nSan Francisco Scottish Thistle Club. Regular meetings are \nheld on the second and fourth Thursdays of the month at I 2 1 \nLarkin street, the latter being a "smoker." \n\nRecreation League of San Francisco. Office in the Phelan \nbuilding at 760 Market street. An amalgamation of over 80 \ncivic, commercial and philanthropic organizations to promote \nan interest in outdoor sports and to make San Francisco known \nfis a city of play. \n\n\n\nClubs and Societies 229 \n\n\n\nSequoia Club. At 1 725 Washington street, between Polk \nstreet and Van Ness avenue. Sequoia Club Hall building. \nGertrude Atherton is an honorary member, and so is Ina Cool- \nbrith, the poet. \n\nSan Francisco-Alaska Club. At 4 Eddy street, near Mar- \nket and Powell. \n\nCommercial Travelers\' 1915. Otto C. Sievers, 673 Fourth \navenue, secretary. Meets second and fourth Fridays at 444 \nMarket street. \n\nPacific Coast Commercial Travelers* Association. Head-, \nquarters 444 Market. Meets last Saturday of the month. \n\nSan Francisco Commercial Travelers\' Association. Meets \nsecond and fourth Tuesdays at 61 1 Pacific building. \n\nSan Francisco Chapter of the American Institute of Archi- \ntects. Sylvain Schnaittacher, secretary. First National Bank \nbuilding, Montgomery and Post streets. \n\nSan Francisco Architectural Club. Harry Thompson, sec- \nretary, 126 Post street. \n\nThe Bar Association of San Francisco extends a welcome to \nvisiting attorneys that may wish to consult its law library, \nninth floor of the Pacific building. Market and Fourth streets. \n\nThe Order of Railwa}) Conductors, Division 1 1 3, meets at \n530 Bryant street on the first and third Tuesdays of the month. \nThere are two lodges of the Brotherhood of Railroad Train- \nmen in this city. San Francisco Lodge No. 198 meets at 530 \nBryant street, at 7:30 p. m., on the first Tuesday of the month, \nand at 1 :30 p. m., on the third Sunday. Golden Gate Lodge \nNo. 846 meets at the same place on the second Wednesday \nand the third Saturday of the month at I 2 :30 p. m. \n\nBesides these there are the Arm^ and Nav^ Club, at 126 \nPost street; the California Anglers\' Association, at 15 \nStockton street; the Concatenated Order of Hoo-Hoo, in the \nFife building, with a membership among the lumbermen ; and \nmany more. \n\nThe San Francisco Labor Council meets every Friday at 8 \np. m., at the Labor Temple, 316 Fourteenth street. \n\n\n\n230 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\no \n\n\n\xc2\xab \n\n\n\xe2\x80\xa2^ \n\n\npL, \n\n\n^ \n\n\n<1 \n\n\n> \n\n\no \n\n\no \n\n\nH \n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nC/J \n\nO \n\n\n?> \n\n\n^-l \n\n\nS \n\n\nW \n\n\nCJ \n\n\n< \n\n\n\xc2\xab \n\n\nn \n\n\nW \n\n\n\n\no \n\n\nH \n\n\n\xc2\xab \n\n\n\xc2\xabit \n\n\nw \n\n\n1< \n\n\n;^ \n\n\n\xc2\xab \n\n\no \n\nQ \n\n\n2 \n\n\nfe \n\n\nri \n\n\no \n\n\n1\xe2\x80\x94 1 \n\n\n\n\nb \n\n\n\n\n<: \n\n\n<: \n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0< \n\n\na \n\n\n\'M \n\n\nr:) \n\n\n< \n\n\n\n\n\xe2\x80\xa2i^ \n\n\nw \n\n\n< \n\n\ntd \n\n\nPh \n\n\nH \n\n\n\n\n\n\nw \n\n\nfc \n\n\nm \n\n\n(_) \n\n\nH \n\n\nha \n\n\nc \n\n\n<! \n\n\nr- \n\n\nffi \n\n\n\n\na \n\n\n\n\na \n\n\n\n\n;^ \n\n\n\n\n<! \n\n\n\n\nK \n\n\n\n\nu \n\n\n\n\nX \n\n\n\n\nw \n\n\n\n\n\nCommercial Organizations 23 \n\n\n\nBuilding Trades Council headquarters are at Building \nTrades Temple, Fourteenth and Guerrero streets. The gen- \neral president and secretary-treasurer of the State Building \nTrades Council have headquarters in the Merchants National \nBank building. \n\n\n\nCOMMERCIAL ORGANIZATIONS. \n\nBoard of Trade of San Francisco. Located at 444 Market \nstreet, foot of Bush. There is no exhibit here, nor other feature \nof interest to the visitor, the Board being organized to carry out \ncertain business objects of its members. \n\nMerchants Exchange. This organization formerly regulated \nthe shipping, grain, beans, hay and allied trades of San Fran- \ncisco, but its commercial functions were assumed by the San \nFrancisco Chamber of Commerce when that body was formed \nby the consolidation of the Merchants\' Association, the Mer- \nchants\' Exchange, the Down Town Association and the old \nChamber of Commerce of San Francisco, in 1911. The Ex- \nchange now exists as a holding body for the Merchants\' Ex- \nchange building. \n\nSan Francisco Chamber of Commerce. The offices of the \nChamber are on the thirteenth floor of the Merchants\' Exchange \nbuilding, 431 California street. Information about San Fran- \ncisco can be obtained here during business hours. The organi- \nzation has over 3,000 members, is the third largest in the coun- \ntry, and the largest body of its kind in the United States in pro- \nportion to the size of the city it represents. It is the one central \ncivic and commercial organization of San Francisco, and is con- \ntinuously at work through its Board of Directors and its forty \nstanding and special committees to promote the trade and wel- \nfare of the community. This hand book has been compiled \nand published by its Publicity Committee. \n\n\n\n232 Handbool^ for San Francisco I \n\nThe Chamber maintains an active 1 raffic Bureau, a Foreign \nTrade Department, a Municipal Affairs committee, an Inspec- \ntion Bureau that watches the expenditure of pubHc funds and \nthe execution of pubhc works, a Reception Committee, a Grain \nInspection Department, which grades the quality of grain bought \nand sold on the exchange and passes on the regularity of the \nwarehouses in which it is stored. Arbitration and Appeals com- \nmittees, before which commercial arbitrations are conducted, a \nPublicity Department, a Domestic Trade Extension com- \nmittee that has conducted jobbers\' and manufacturers excur- \nsions all over California, and a National and Foreign Affairs \ncommittee that watches the trend of national legislation and \ndiplomacy and its possible effect on San Francisco, through a \nspecial Washington Bureau. Few cities have such concentra- \ntion of civic and commercial function as this. \n\nThe Exchange Hall of the Chamber of Commerce is on the \nground floor of the Merchants\' Exchange building at 43 1 Cali- \nfornia street, and here is conducted the trade of the city, and \nof the State as well, in barley, oats, wheat, flour and beans. \nThe transactions take place at two sessions a day; from 1 1 to \nII :30 a. m., and 2 to 2:30 p. m. Through a door near the \neast or LeidesdorfF street end of the cross corridor, visitors are \nadmitted to a small railed gallery overlooking the grain pit. \n\nThis is the hall in which, on April 28, 1910, amid a \ntumult of enthusiasm such as few cities have ever witnessed, \ncitizens of San Francisco subscribed over four million dollars \nin less than two hours as a beginning for the Panama-Pacific \nExposition. \n\nThe San Francisco Stock and Bond Exchange is on the \nground floor of the Merchants\' Exchange building, 431 Cali- \nfornia street. Sessions are at 10:30 a. m. and 2 p. m. \n\n\n\nsports 233 \n\nSPORTS. \n\nIf nothing else did, results of sporting contests would go far \ntoward establishing the proposition that San Francisco is a \nplace where men do things well. \n\nOne San Franciscan, W. D. Mansfield, is the world s \nchampion amateur fly caster. Another, George Horine, is the \nworld\'s champion amateur high jumper. Another, Ralph Rose, \nis the world\'s champion amateur 1 6-pound shot putter. An- \nother, Adolph Strecker, held a world\'s rifle championship for \nmany years. Another, James E. Gorman, has a pistol score \nthat is the highest ever made, and a revolver score that has \nnever been beaten. Another San Franciscan, Maurice E. Mc- \nLaughlin, is the champion tennis player of the United States. \n\nSport is hospitable here. Almost without exception the vis- \nitor properly introduced will find a welcome among the sports- \nmen\'s organizations. For the service of travelers we present \nhere some information that will enable them to enjoy the out- \ndoor attractions of the Bay region. \n\nCalifornia, as one enthusiast has put it, is "one great fish and \ngame preserve." Deer are actually more numerous in this State \ntoday than they were 30 years ago, owing to the destruction of \npanthers and other predatory animals, under a wise bounty \nsystem. \n\nThe State is 750 miles long, well watered, in parts heavily \nwooded, with noble stretches of game cover, and some of the \ngrandest trout streams to be found. \n\nFish and game abound, and if you want to get a shot at a \ncinnamon bear, waylay a cougar or entice a steelhead with a \ndry fly, there are plenty of resorts so near San Francisco that \nyou can reach them with no more luggage than your bag and \ngun case, and no longer than a few days\' absence from your \ncomfortable city hotel. In fact, San Francisco is the focus of \na "Sportsman\'s Paradise." \n\nSo long is the state and so infinitely varied are its natural \nconditions that no general game laws could be applied to it, and \n\n\n\n234 Handbook for San Francisco \' \n\nit has been necessary for the legislature to divide it into six \ndistricts and vary the law among them. Closed and open sea- \nsons differ with the locality. Moreover, county boards of \nsupervisors have been vested by the legislature with power to \nshorten the open seasons, so that it is difficult to present reliable \ndata on this point that would stay so for any length of time. \nMany of the sporting goods houses print excerpts from the law \nand diagrams of seasons, so that current information for any \ntime and place can be obtained from them. \n\nFISHING. \n\nOne dollar license is required for fishing. As to rods and \ntackle, San Francisco sporting goods houses can supply the best \nquality to be found of the suitable thing, and advice about its use. \n\nFor salmon, the Wilson spoon, a famous killer hereabouts, \nis a native San Franciscan, and the Kewell spoon is another \ngood one. \n\nSalmon. Some of the liveliest salmon fishing in the world \ncan be enjoyed right in San Francisco Bay, or just "outside \nthe heads." \n\nBeginning in June, and sometimes as early as May, the \nsalmon begin to run at Monterey, 85 miles due south of \nthis city, or 1 22 miles by rail. Here, in this quaint old Span- \nish town, the original capital of California, you can get good \naccommodations, boats and launches, bait, and men to take you \nout. Other points on Monterey Bay are Santa Cruz, Capitola, \nAptos, Soquel, and the famous resort, Del Monte, all easily \nreached from San Francisco by the Southern Pacific railroad, \nand all able to supply fishing facilities. \n\nWithin a few weeks after the run begins at Monterey the \nsalmon will have reached the Golden Gate. The sporting \ngoods houses along Market street, or north Kearny street, will \nbe glad to give you the needed information to the minute. \n\nThis is the time, if you wish to hook a fifty-pound fish with \n\n\n\nsports 235 \n\nfighting blood in him, to arrange with G. Sanguinetti for a \ngasoline crab launch from Fishermen\'s Wharf to take you \nout. \n\nSanguinetti should have a day\'s notice. His place is at the \nsouthwest corner of Mason and Jefferson streets. \n\nTake the Powell street cable car marked \'\'Market and \nPowell, Ba\\^ and Taylor" and go to the terminus. Fishermen\'s \nWharf is dead ahead about four blocks, Jefferson is the last \nstreet before you reach it, and Mason is one block to your right \n(east). The right price for the launch and its engineer should \nbe $ 1 0, and the boatman will supply the bait. \n\nIn the same manner you can get rock cod fishing around \nAngel Island and Raccoon straits, (between Angel island and \nBelvedere) and striped bass in the rivers, creeks and sloughs \nthat communicate with the Bay. The bass afford fine sport, \noften weighing as high as 55 pounds, and furnishing the best \nof food. Launches can be hired, also, from the Crowley \nLaunch and Tugboat company, from Henry Peterson, Charles \nPeterson, Johnson, Lang, John Leary and others, who can \nbe found along the water front, and by consulting the tele- \nphone directory. \n\nLaunches and rowboats can be had at Sausalito and at \nTiburon. \n\nTrout, Fly fishing for Steelhead is a popular sport in the \nvicinity of San Francisco. A steelhead is supposed to be a rain- \nbow trout that has been to sea, and he is a great fighting fish. \n\nProbably the finest steelhead fishing to be found near this city \n(and it is near enough so one can go and return the same \nday), is in San Gregorio lagoon and creek, three miles beyond \nthe present terminus of the Ocean Shore railroad\'s northern \ndivision. There is a stage connection at Tunitas Glen, where \nthe division ends at present. \n\nFive miles below San Gregorio is Pescadero, also very fine. \n\nThe Ocean Shore skirts the bluffs just above the sea, south- \nward from San Francisco for 38 miles, and northward from \nSanta Cruz 151/2 miles, cutting across the courses of several \n\n\n\n236 Handbook for San Francisco \n\ntrout streams. In 1912 the company put into these streams \n200,000 young fish from the state hatcheries. At any access- \nible beach along the line, and there are many of them, the \nsurf-fishing for cod, eels and perch is good, and numbers of \npeople find recreation and good food gathering mussels and \nabalones from the rocks. \n\nTrains on the Ocean Shore leave the city from Twelfth and \nMarket streets. Returning, one can leave Tunitas at 5:30 \np. m., arriving at Twelfth and Market at 7:35 p. m. There \nare four daily trains down this road at present. \n\nNorth of San Francisco, up to the Oregon line, is a stretch \nof coast country heavily wooded, with cover for quail, doves, \ngrey and Douglas squirrel, deer, bear and cougar, and with \nliving streams that reach the ocean and abound in fish. The \nNorthwestern Pacific, leaving Sausalito, threads this region \nfor about I 50 miles, to Sherwood, Mendocino county, and for \nmost of the distance runs several trains a day. \n\nLarge areas of this country are heavily timbered with virgin \nredwood forest, and its rough mountain ranges are gashed to \nthe sea with rivers whose very names spell fish to a Californian. \nDetailed information can be obtained at the ticket office of the \ncompany, 874 Market street. \n\nLake county is called the Switzerland of California. Min- \neral springs are many and a health resort has been built beside \nnearly every one. Hunting and fishing are good all through \nthe region. \n\nSouthward again from San Francisco, on the Southern \nPacific, one reaches such places as Boulder Creek and Brook- \ndale, in the rugged Santa Cruz mountains. \n\nNew regions have recently been opened to the hunter \nand angler by the construction of the Western Pacific rail- \nroad. On this line one can get directly at the Big Meadows \ncountry, on the north fork of the Feather river, in Plumas \ncounty. The Feather is a magnificent stream, broad and full, \ncarrying the largest low water flow of any of the streams of \nCentral California. \n\n\n\nsports \n\n\n\n237 \n\n\n\n\nLAKE TAHOE AND THE SIERRA, FROM MT. TALLAC. \n\n\n\nLake Tahoe is within easy reach of San Francisco, One can \nleave the city at night and be there next morning. Its half-mile \nsapphire depths hide big ones. Boats and launches can be \nhad at the Tavern or at Tallac, the largest two resorts, both \nvery comfortable. Here are rainbow. Loch Levin, great Mack- \ninaw, and other fighting breeds. There are many resorts on \nthe lake, besides those we have mentioned, such as Homewood, \nMcKinney\'s, Moana Villa, Emerald Bay, with a good camp \nand near the deepest part of the lake; Al-Tahoe, Bijou, the \nGrove, Lakeside Park, Glenbrook, Brockway, Tahoe Vista, \nCarnelian Bay, and others. Rubicon Springs are easily reached \nby stage from McKinney\'s, and the fishing nearby is excellent. \nAll of them have boats. \n\nFallen Leaf Lake is but three or four miles from Tallac, \nand the trolling here is good. A stage leaves Tallac for this \nplace just after lunch. Another leaves about the same time for \n\nClen Alpine Springs, about seven miles from the Tallac \n\n\n\n238 Handboo}^ for San Francisco \n\nhouse and around the shoulder of Ml. Tallac. Forty-six lakes \nlie within a six-mile radius of the springs. On nine of them \nthe hotel camp keeps boats for its guests. \n\nThe Truckee river tears its way out of Tahoe, and its \nriffles hide fine fighters. It is a stream for experts and much \nof it is preserved, but there are some good reaches that are still \nopen. \n\nThen there are Hetch Hetchy and the Tuolumne Meadows, \nthe streams above Yosemite valley, the Merced river in the \nvalley itself, but the fishing here is a hard proposition. The \nKern, King\'s River and Kaweah canyons, and as many more \nas you care to try, leading into the fastnesses of the high \nSierra, amid the most beautiful and wonderful scenery in \nNorth America. \n\nAnd so the story goes, north, south and east, with the ocean \nto the west, and with San Francisco a hub from which radiate \ntransportation lines in every direction to the finest fields of sport \non the continent. In a work of this size we can not undertake \nto describe, or even locate, all the places where delight awaits \nthe angler and big game targets await the hunter, but inquiry \nat the railroad ticket offices and some vigilance around the \nsporting goods houses, which continually receive advices from \nthe railroad station agents, will serve to inform any intelligent \nperson about facilities and accommodations. The Southern \nPacific offices are at 834 Market, Palace Hotel, Third and \nTownsend depot; the Northwestern Pacific at 874 Market; the \nSanta Fe at 673 Market; the Western Pacific at 665 Market, \nall of them have offices and information bureaus at the Ferry. \n\nFLY CASTING. \n\nIn this sport San Francisco stands supreme, with records that \nhave never been approached. The organization that conducts \nthe events is the San Francisco Fl^ Casting Club, which has \na club house at Stow Lake, in Golden Gate Park, and a fish- \ning lodge on the Truckee river about three miles west of Boca, \nwhere it owns two miles of river bank. Grover Cleveland was \n\n\n\nSports 239 \n\na member of this organization, and Dr. Henry Van Dyke of \nPrinceton belongs to it. The present secretary is Paul M. Nip- \npert, Mills building. Bush and Montgomery streets. The presi- \ndent is F. J. Cooper. The membership includes many of the \nleading men of the community, in business and the professions. \nContests at casting the fly and the half-ounce lure occur on \nalternate Saturdays and following Sundays at Stow Lake, in \nGolden Gate Park, from March to November, and the per- \nformances here are so remarkable that they have made this bit \nof water famous among anglers all over the world. The events \noccur at 2:30 p. m., on Saturdays and 10:30 a. m., on Sun- \ndays, at a concrete pier constructed by the park commissioners \nespecially for this use. Visiting anglers are welcome. \n\nThe world\'s record for single handed fly-casting with a \nheavy rod, in open tournament, is 1 34 feet, made by Walter \nD. Mansfield of San Francisco at Stow Lake in 1902. Since \nthen, in club contests, H. C. Golcher of San Francisco cast \n140 feet, T. W. Brotherton of San Francisco 137, J. B. \nKenniff of San Francisco 1 35 ; and Walter D. Mansfield \nin a record exhibition made a cast of 1 44. The nearest ap- \nproach to these marks is 1 20 feet, made at Chicago. \n\nWith the light rod, the record is held by Mansfield of San \nFrancisco, at 1 29 feet, 6 inches, the next best cast being 1 1 4 \nfeet, made in Chicago. These records have never been ap- \nproached in Europe. \n\nThe San Francisco Fly Casting Club is a member of the \nNational Association of Scientific Angling Clubs, and its \nrecords are recognized throughout the world. Its membership \nis limited to 1 00, and the number is always complete. \n\nHUNTING. \n\nThe law imposes a hunting license fee of $1 a year on resi- \ndents of California, $10 a year on citizens not residing in the \nState, and $25 a year on aliens. If the $1 license is what you \nrequire you can buy it at any first class sporting goods shop in \nthe city. The others must be obtained from the county clerk \n\n\n\n240 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nor at the office of the Fish and Game Commission, in the Mills \nbuilding, corner of Bush and Montgomery streets. \n\nThe sporting goods houses and railroad offices can supply \ndefinite directions for getting at the game \xe2\x80\x94 ducks, quail, snipe, \ngeese, deer, bear and panther. \n\nHORSEBACK RIDING. \n\nSaddle horses for riding in the Park or elsewhere about the \ncity can be obtained from the Hulda Stables, at 1530 Fell \nstreet, the Park Riding Academy, 2934 Fulton street, or the \nRiding and Driving Club, at 701 Seventh avenue. There are \ndelightful rides down toward Ingleside, and to the Crystal \nLakes and Lake Pilarcitos, in San Mateo county. \n\nBASEBALL. \n\nAt Recreation Park, Fifteenth and Valencia streets. \n\nValencia street car. Line No. 9, or Eighteenth & Park Line, \n(no number.) \n\nReserved seats for Sundays and holidays may be secured at \n884 Market street up to 1 o\'clock of the day of the game; or \nat Recreation Park, in person or by telephone. Advance res- \nervation may be made for Sunday and holiday games. Only \nbox seats are reserved on week days. The prices are: \n\nBleachers, 25 cents. Grand stand, box seats, 75 cents on \nweek days and $1 on Sundays and holidays. Grand stand \ngeneral admission, on week days 50 cents; Sundays and holi- \ndays (all seats reserved), first four rows, opera chairs, 75 \ncents; all other seats 50 cents. \n\nThe local ball park will seat over 12,000 people. \n\nOwing to the climate, the coast schedule is the longest in or- \nganized baseball. It begins about April 1st, and runs until \nlate in October, a period of 30 weeks, or practically seven \nmonths. \n\nThe schedule calls for baseball five days of the week in San \nFrancisco: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sun- \nday afternoons. There is no game on Monday. On Sat- \n\n\n\nsports 241 \n\nurdays, Sundays and holidays game begins at 2:30 p. m. ; on \nTuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 3 o\'clock. On Thurs- \nday afternoons and Sunday mornings the teams journey to Oak- \nland. \n\nThe Pacific Coast Baseball League is composed of six \nteams: San Francisco, Oakland, Los Angeles, Portland, Sac- \nramento and Venice. \n\nThe OaI(land Baseball Park is located at San Pablo and \nPark avenues, Emeryville. \n\nTake Key system ferry and Piedmont train at the mole, to \nFortieth street and San Pablo avenues, and walk three blocks \nnorth. \n\nHere ball is played, during the season, at 3:15 p. m., Thurs- \ndays, and 10:10 a. m. on Sundays and holidays. Bleacher \nseats are 25 cents, grand stand 50 and 75 cents, box seats \n75 cents and $ 1 . The grand stand here is a modern and very \nfine structure. \n\nOn the nine diamonds in Golden Gate Park one can see as \nmany amateur games going on continuously, all day of a Sun- \n\xe2\x80\xa2 day; and many other amateur teams use the play-ground dia- \nmonds at various points about the city. \n\nFOOTBALL. \n\nThe English Rugby game is played between the fifteens of \nthe University of California and Leland Stanford Junior Uni- \nversity, and the annual contest of the two institutions is the \nmain football event of the Coast. It takes place in November ; \nat Berkeley, on California Field, in even-numbered years, and \nat Palo Alto, on Stanford Field, in the odd-numbered ones. \nThe rivalry has continued for 2 1 years, having begun in 1 89 1 , \nand the total score of all games played since then stands \n(1913) at 198 for California and 195 for Stanford. \n\nThe English Rugby game was introduced in 1 906, and \nspeedily supplanted the early form of the sport in popular \nfavor. It had the further advantage of uniting the interests \nof the football men of the Coast and those of Australia and \n\n\n\n242 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nNew Zealand. The California Rugby Union now embraces \nall teams playing English Rugby on the Coast. Last year \nthis organization imported the Australian "Waratah" team, \nwhich defeated an All-America fifteen. In 1909 the Aus- \ntralian "Wallaby" team was brought over, and next season a \nteam will come here from New Zealand. \n\n"Soccer," or association football, which in England corre- \nsponds in interest and mode of organization to our professional \nbaseball, is a summer game in the East, but is played straight \nthrough the winter in San Francisco, and under conditions that \nimpose the most rigid principles of clean amateur sport. When \nsnow and ice in other parts of the country have put an end to \nalmost all outdoor games, winter football can be seen at 2:30 \nevery Sunday, rain or shine, at the Ocean shore grounds at \nMission and Twelfth streets, which can be reached by taking \nan^ Mission street car, or Market street car to Twelfth and \nwalking a block south. Games in which a university team \nparticipates occur on Saturday, at the same time. Women \nand children under 1 4 are admitted free. Others pay 25 cents. \n\nCRICKET. \n\nCricket games are played between teams of the California \nCricket Association every Sunday afternoon, beginning at 1 \no\'clock, from early May to the end of September, at the \nStadium in Golden Gate Park, and at CrolFs grounds in \nAlameda. To reach the Alameda grounds \n\nTake the Southern Pacific Ferry from the foot of Market \nstreet to Alameda Pier, and the High street train from there to \nWebster street station. \n\nThe Association consists of four teams: The Wanderers, \nthe Barbarians, the Golden Gates and the Alameda. A chal- \nlenge cup goes to the winner of the year\'s series. Visiting \ncricketers are always welcome. \n\nTRACK AND FIELD ATHLETICS. \nThere is no season when sports afield can not be enjoyed in \nSan Francisco and the vicinity, as there is almost no weather. \n\n\n\nsports 243 \n\nat any time of the year, that seriously interferes with them. \nAthletic organization embraces the grammar schools and even \nthe Sabbath schools. \n\nThe governing body for California, north of Tehachapi and \nNevada, under whose sanction all regular events are held, is \nthe Pacific Association of the Amateur Athletic Union of the \nUnited States; the president is John Elliott, 42 Clay street, \nSan Francisco, and the secretary Herbert Hauser, 4 1 Mont- \ngomery street. San Francisco grammar schools, high schools \nall over Northern California, the local Y. M. C. A., the \nNational Guard, all the universities and colleges around the \nbay, and the University of Nevada are represented in it and \nare part of it. \n\nThe universities take the lead in interest, although the Olym- \npic, the Barbarian and the Pastime Clubs push them close. \nOutdoor events begin in March and continue until October, \nand are held in the Stadium at Golden Gate Park, on the \nUniversity of California Oval, at St. Ignatius College, St. \nMary\'s College, the University of Santa Clara, or the athletic \nfield of Stanford University. The Stadium in Golden Gate \nPark is one of the finest and most completely equipped athletic \nfields in the world, and the field at Stanford is very fine also. \nEach has a 220-yard straight-away. For locations and meth- \nods of reaching these places see the index. \n\nThe Recreation League of San Francisco, with its office in \nthe Phelan building. Market and O\'Farrell streets, does a great \ndeal to promote a healthy interest in outdoor sports of all kinds. \nThe secretary is James E. Rogers. \n\nA San Franciscan, Mr. William Unmack, has been asked \nby the Amateur Athletic Union of the United States to take \nan All-American track team to Australia and New Zealand \nfor the antipodean summer 1913 to 1914. \n\nYACHTING. \n\nThe Bay of San Francisco is a matchless sheet of water \nfor all aquatic sports. It has an area of 420 square miles, of \n\n\n\n244 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nLOOKING OVER THE BAY FROM TAMALPAIS. \n\nwhich there is a space of 190 square miles that is over 30 feet \ndeep. It offers fine sailing courses, and there is so much of \ngood brisk breeze through the summer that San Francisco \nboats have about half the sail plan of those on the Atlantic \nCoast. \n\nLandward are several good sloughs or creeks, navigable for \npleasure craft, and the mouths of two great rivers, the Sacra- \nmento and the San Joaquin. The rivers are beautiful to travel \nand give access to most interesting country. At an ordinary \n\n\n\nsports 243 \n\nstage of water a boat drawing seven feet can go as far as Sac- \nramento on the Sacramento river, or Stockton on the San Joa- \nquin, and every foot of the way is full of charm and interest. \n\nBut this is only the beginning. "Outside" is the blue Pa- \ncific, inviting bay yachtsmen for cruises to Bolinas and Drake\'s \nbays on the north, and down the coast to Monterey bay, 85 \nmiles to the southward, where are the pleasant resorts of Santa \nCruz, Monterey and Pacific Grove. On such a cruise one gets \nthe finest of sea fishing. If one has a stanch boat and good \ncrew he is not limited even to coasting, for Honolulu calls with \nits tropical allurements. This is a cruise that can be made in \nfifteen days from San Francisco, with the greatest comfort at \nalmost any season of the year. An eastern yachtsman who \nhad brought his boat around could not do better than return \nby way of Honolulu and the Panama Canal ; or keep on from \nHonolulu to the Samoan islands, the Philippines and China. \n\nIt was from San Francisco Bay that Robert Louis Stevenson \ndeparted in the yacht "Casco" on the South Sea voyage that \ntook him to Samoa, and it was from this port that Jack London \nset sail on the "Snark." \n\nA line addressed to the secretary of either the San Francisco \nor the Corinthian Yacht Club will put a stranger in touch with \nthe yachting situation; when, if he has letters from the East, \nnavigation will be made easy for him. \n\nThe San Francisco Yacht Club has its club house at Sausa- \nlito, which can be reached from the Ferry buildmg at the foot \nof Market street by ferry boats running half hourly during the \nearly and late hours, and hourly during the middle of the day. \nIt has a spacious anchorage, and all facilities. A steam yacht \nof any size can come alongside the float, and there are cranes \nto handle heavy material. \n\nThe Sausalito Yacht Club has its headquarters and club \nhouse at Sausalito. \n\nThe Corinthian Yacht Club has its club house at Tiburon, \nreached by an hourly ferry boat from Sausalito. Many power \nboats are represented in this organization. \n\n\n\n246 Handbool( for San Francisco \n\nThe Aeolian Yachi Club and the Encinal Yacht Club are \nboth located at Alameda, which is reached from the Ferry \nbuilding, foot of Market street. \n\nThe South Bay Yacht Club is at Alviso. \n\nThe Vallejo Yacht Club is situated at the town of that \nname, just above San Pablo Bay. \n\nThe Pacific Motor Boat Club is one of the big factors in \nmotor boating on the coast. Its club house is at Belvedere, \nMarin county. \n\nIn Oakland are the California Yacht Club, and the Oak- \nland Yacht and Motor Boat Club. \n\nROWING. \n\nEight-oar shell races occur between crews of Stanford Uni- \nversity, the University of California and Washington Uni- \nversity in the Oakland estuary annually, some time during the \nmonth of June. To reach the estuary take the Southern Pa- \ncific ferry to Alameda Pier, whence there is good walking \nalong the mole to the finish. This is the main rowing event of \nthe year in the vicinity of San Francisco. \n\nThe Alameda Rowing Club of Alameda, and the South \nEnd Rowing and Boating, the Ariel Rowing and Boating, \nand the Dolphin Swimming and Boating Clubs of San Fran- \ncisco form the Pacific Association of Amateur Oarsmen, which \nholds a rowing regatta, with four-oared barge races and skiff \nraces, every Fourth of July, at Black Point Cove, near Fort \nMason. The three clubs last named have club houses there, \nand San Francisco\'s swimming, boating and other aquatic \nevents occur along this bit of water. \n\nHyde street cars will take you to Black Point Cove. \n\nPersons fond of rowing will find good boats at the boai: \nhouse on Stow Lake, in Golden Gate Park. \n\nGOLF. \n\nCool, rainless summers, and winters without snow, with \nreliable stretches of dry weather and clear skies, make San Fran- \ncisco and its environs ideal for this sport. There are fine links \n\n\n\nsports 247 \n\nin the vicinity, laid out by experts, and where they belong to \nclubs the visitor needs only some member to put him up, in \norder to enjoy the game. The following are some of the \nbest courses, either in the city or at such distance that one \ncan go and return in a day or two: \n\nMunicipal Course in Lincoln Park, San Francisco. Sit- \nuated on bluffs overlooking the Golden Gate. The course is \nsix holes, northerly, with a possibility of nine by playing west- \nward from the northerly green toward Land\'s End. Open \nto all and no fees required. \n\nPresidio Golf Course, Just within the Presidio of San \nFrancisco, to the left of the First avenue entrance. An \neighteen-hole course, and one of the finest in the State. Main- \ntained by the United States Army. Used by the United \nService Golf Club, and by the Presidio Golf Club. The head- \nquarters of the latter are at 8 Presidio Terrace. \n\nIngleside Coif and Country Club. This is an 1 8-hole \ncourse, on sandy soil, and in winter is like the eastern courses \nat their best. \n\nBurlingame Countr]) Club. Near Burlingame, 1 6 miles \ndown the San Francisco Peninsula; about 31 minutes on the \nSouthern Pacific railroad from Third and Townsend depot. \nAn 1 8-hole course, delightfully situated. \n\nBeresford Country Club. Near San Mateo, 1 8 miles down \nthe peninsula, just beyond Burlingame, and reached in the \nsame way. The links are but a year old, but when complete \nwill be one of the best 1 8-hole courses in the country, and \nthe longest near San Francisco. \n\nMenlo Country Club. At Menlo Park, 29 miles down \nthe peninsula, on Southern Pacific. The course now consists \nof nine holes, but will shortly be doubled. \n\nSanta Cruz. Situated on Monterey Bay, 76 miles south \nof San Francisco, on Southern Pacific. Links are full cham- \npionship length, 6200 yards, 1 8 holes. Open to all guests of \nthe Casa del Rey hotel at Santa Cruz, and to others on pay- \nment of a green-fee. \n\n\n\n248 Handhool( for San. Francisco \n\nDel Monte. Near historic Monterey, and about 1 2 1 miles \nfrom San Francisco, on Southern Pacific. No cards or intro- \nduction necessary. The Hnks, within a five-minute walk of \nthe hotel, are the scene of the annual Pacific Coast Cham- \npionship contests. The course is 1 8 holes, full championship, \n6300 yards, with fine putting greens. \n\nSan Jose Country Club and Coif Linl^s. Linda Vista \ndistrict, six miles east of San Jose. Eighteen holes, 6200 yards. \nAn excellent course, with a beautiful outlook. \n\nClaremont Country Club. Across the bay, in Oakland. An \n1 8-hole course, on soil of the typical inland California sort. \nTake Key s])stem ferr}^ and Fortieth street train; DroadxDay car \nnorth. \n\nMarin County^ Country Club. Near San Rafael, 1 5 miles \nnorth of San Francisco, on the Northwestern Pacific. There is \na 9-hole course, in beautiful surroundings, with the additional \nattraction of a salt water plunge. \n\nHANDBALL. \n\nThere are six free handball courts in Golden Gate Park, \ndirectly south of the Francis Scott Key monument. Handball \ncourts are also found in most of the athletic gymnasiums, like \nthat of the Olympic Club. \n\nTENNIS. \n\nThis is an all-year-round sport in San Francisco, where \nthe summers are never too warm nor the winters too cold for \nbrisk work at the nets. As a result this city takes the lead \nat expert play, and produces champions in numbers. \n\nMaurice E. McLaughlin of San Francisco is (1913) the \nchampion of the United States in the singles class, having won \nthe title at Newport, R. I., in August, 1912. With Thomas \nC. Bundy of Los Angeles he also won the doubles cham- \npionship in the same tournament. Carlton R. Gardner of \nSan Francisco is champion of the Orient, having won that \ntitle at Manila. Two other San Franciscans, William John- \n\n\n\nSports 249 \n\nston and Elia Fottrell, are champions of the Northwest in \nthe doubles class. In all, four San Francisco men are among \nthe ten best players in the United States. Miss Hazel Hotch- \nkiss of Berkeley was the women\'s champion of the United \nStates at both singles and doubles in 1910. 1911 and 1912. \n\nDr. Sumner Hardy of San Francisco is president of the \nPacific States Lawn Tennis Association, a confederation of \nclubs in California, Oregon and Washington. \n\nThe principal tennis clubs in this city are the California \nLawn Tennis Club, and the Golden Gate Lawn Tennis Club; \nbut one does not have to belong to a club to enjoy the \nsport to the full, for there are courts in Golden Gate Park \nand many of the city squares that are open to any well- \nbehaved person. \n\nThe California Tennis Club\'s five asphaltum courts are \nat the southwest corner of Scott and Bush streets, where \nvisiting players with proper credentials are always made wel- \ncome. \n\nThe Golden Gate Club holds its matches on the courts in \nGolden Gate Park. \n\nThere are about a dozen courts in the park, toward the \neast end and just south of Favorite point, where the Middle \nDrive meets the Main Drive. They are free to all. \n\nIn addition there are other courts in Alta Plaza, between \nScott and Steiner, and Jackson and Clay streets; Mission \nPark, between Eighteenth and Twentieth, and Dolores and \nChurch streets; in Lafayette Square, between Laguna and \nGough, and Washington and Sacramento streets; and in Holly \nPark, which would be at the crossing of Highland and Bocana \navenues, in the southern part of the city. These are all public \nsquares, under the administrative control of the Park Com- \nmissioners, and the use of the tennis courts in them is free. \n\nSome fine matches are played on the public courts, espe- \ncially in Golden Gate Park, but coast championship games \nare usually played at the Hotel Del Monte, on the Bay of \nMonterey, just east of the town of that name. \n\n\n\n250 Handbool( for San Francisco \n\nPOLO. \n\nThis is a winter game in California, the season running \nfrom November to May. Some of the best contests occur \nwhen Eastern fields are covered with snow. In fact, the same \nchmatic conditions that foster all kinds of outdoor sport near \nSan Francisco, make the vicinity ideal for polo \xe2\x80\x94 so much \nso that at San Mateo, less than twenty miles down the \npeninsula, there are three line polo fields within a two-mile \nradius. All these can be reached easily from San Mateo, \nwhich is accessible either by the Southern Pacific from Third \nand Townsend depot, or by the electric car starting from \nFifth and Market streets. \n\nTwo of these fields are on the private estates of Francis J. \nCarolan and Charles W. Clark. The Carolan, or "Cross- \nway," field is about three blocks easterly from Burlingame \ndepot, the last stop on the Southern Pacific before San Mateo. \nThe Clark field is just across El Camino Real, about a block \nwest of the Hotel Peninsula. The San Mateo Polo Club has \nits field and club house at El Cerrito Park, Hillsboro, about \nten minutes\' walk westward of the depot at San Mateo, and \nabout fifteen minutes\' walk from the hotel. \n\nThe three fields are on soils of different character, and \ntheir proximity to one another makes it possible to find good \nconditions in any weather. They are generally used in rotation. \n\nThe game is now well organized under the auspices of the \nSan Mateo Polo Club, formed in 1906, and play is con- \ntinuous through the season, which begins Nov. 1 and lasts \nuntil May I . There are three teams of this organization in \nthe field. The members practice during the week; and on \nSaturdays and Sundays, at 3 p. m., there are regular mem- \nbers\' games. The club house premises are reserved for mem- \nbers and their guests. The public grand stands seat about \nthree thousand, and parking space is provided for autos. \n\nAt intervals, especially on holidays, there are hard match \ngames, well worth a trip to this beautiful locality to witness. \n\n\n\nsports 25 1 \n\nThe annual tournament is held in February and as the \nincidental expenses are heavy, an admittance fee of twenty-five \nand fifty cents is charged for these events. During the spring \nof 1912 teams participated that had come from Los Angeles, \nSanta Barbara, Canada and England. In 1913 the Honolulu \nteam played here. \n\nPolo players from a distance wishing to participate should \ncommunicate with the San Mateo Polo Club, San Mateo, \nCalifornia. Accommodations can be had at the Peninsula \nHotel, which is open throughout the season. \n\nA member of the club pays an entrance fee of twenty-five \ndollars on joining, and five dollars a month thereafter. Dues \nfor non-resident members are five dollars per quarter, which \nentitles them to all the privileges of the club when residing in \nSan Mateo. Player\'s fee for the season is fifty dollars. \n\ngentlemen\'s driving clubs. \n\nThat typical American sporting event, the trotting race in \nharness, can be seen almost any fair Saturday or Sunday \nafternoon, beginning about 12:30 p. m., during the season \nfrom May to November, at the Stadium in Golden Gate \nPark, under the best amateur conditions. There is no admit- \ntance fee. \n\nThe San Francisco Driving Club, an organization of about \n125 members, holds its race meets at the Stadium on alter- \nnate Sundays. Half a dozen races are likely to occur. This \nis one of the principal driving clubs of the State. Its meets \nalternate with those of the California Driving Club, so that \nthe race track is in use every Sunday. \n\nThe Park Amateur Driving Club holds race meets, with \nfrom twelve to twenty horses entered, at the Stadium on \nalternate Saturday afternoons during the summer. \n\nBOWLING ON THE GREEN. \nThis pleasant sport is pursued on the Bowling Green in \nGolden Gate Park all the year round by members of the San \nFrancisco Scottish Bowling Club, on Wednesdays, Saturdays \n\n\n\n252 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nand holidays. Many tournaments, for prizes, are held during \nthe summer. \n\nRIFLE AND REVOLVER SHOOTING. \n\nThe San Francisco Scheutzen Verein, organized in 1858, \nshoots at Shellmound Park, Emeryville, on the Southern \nPacific ferry and suburban line, every Sunday the year around. \nSeveral clubs shoot at this park, and almost any of them is \nglad of the participation of visitors interested in the sport. \nOn Tuesday evening there is indoor revolver shooting at the \nsame place, and on Thursday evening indoor rifle shooting. \nTo reach Shellmound Park, \n\nTaJ^e California loop train, connecting at Oal^land pier Tvith \nSouthern Pacific ferr^ from the foot of Market street. \n\nThe California Scheutzen Club owns a park near San \nRafael, in Marin county, on the Northwestern Pacific, and \nmeets there on the first and third Sundays of the month. \n\nThere has recently been organized the Panama-Pacific In- \nternational Shooting Association, which will hold a great in- \nternational shooting festival during the exposition in 1915. \n\nTRAP SHOOTING, \n\nOver 200,000 blue rocks are smashed every year by the \ntrap shooters of San Francisco \xe2\x80\x94 more, it is said, than in \nany other city in the country. Trap shooting occurs at the \ngrounds of the Golden Gate Gun Club, Webster street and \nAtlantic avenue, Alameda, on Saturdays from 1 to 5 p. m., \nand all day on Sunday. \n\nTake Southern Pacific ferr^ to Alameda mole, and \'* Lin- \ncoln Loop\'\' train to Webster street station, and walk north \nabout six blocks. \n\nAny one living within fifty miles is eligible to join. Visitors \nfrom a greater distance pay a small charge for trapping targets. \nAll standard loads can be bought at the grounds. If a visitor \nhas no gun one will be found for him. \n\nVisiting railroad men will find the Traffic Gun Club shoot- \ning here on the first Saturday in the month. \n\n\n\nsports 253 \n\nMOUNTAINEERING FROM SAN FRANCISCO. \n\nWithin easy reach of this city is one of the great mountain \nranges of the world, the Sierra Nevadas, with higher peaks \nthan the American Rockies, and stretches of scenery not sur- \npassed by that of the Alps. There are many peaks over \n12,000 feet in height, and two, Shasta and Whitney, over \n1 4,000. There are beautiful lakes and meadows, wonder- \nfully prolific trout streams, and great forests of the Sequoia \nGigantea, the Big Trees of California, the largest living organ- \nisms and to be found nowhere else. \n\nAdded to these attractions is the superlative one of fine \nclimate. No other mountain region has such reliable weather. \nIt is so free from storms, and offers such a succession of \nopportunities for travel throughout the long summers that the \nSierra Club, the leader in organized mountaineering in Cali- \nfornia, conducts its summer outings without tents \xe2\x80\x94 a great \nadvantage in respect to the twin problems of transportation and \neconomy. \n\nSan Francisco is the best place from which to seek the \nthrilling experiences of the California mountains. The Sierra \nare readily acessible from here, by railroad, to places well into \nthe middle altitudes. In this city can be obtained the most \nauthentic and complete information on the subject from the \nofficers of the Sierra Club, and from its library, which can \nbe found by consulting the index. \n\n\n\nROUND ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. \n\nIn the following pages we have endeavored to give some \nidea of what may be done by a visitor that has but a few \ndays at his disposal, to see some of the best and most char- \nacteristic parts of California, lying close to this city. \n\nEverywhere it is a land of beauty and of charm. Many of \nthe most attractive localities are within a day\'s journey of \nSan Francisco, and others can be visited on a trip of two or \nthree days. \n\n\n\n254 HandbooI( for San Francisco \n\nA traveler that has the time should not neglect the romantic \nMt. Shasta region, through the upper Sacramento Valley by \nthe Shasta route of the Southern Pacific Company, nor the \nwonderful Feather River Canyon, newly opened to travel by \nthe Western Pacific railroad. Some trips closer to the city \nwill be found farther along in this volume. \n\n\n\nEXCURSION ON THE BAY. \n\nA delightful voyage of three and a half or four hours on \nSan Francisco Bay, within sight of its cities, islands and \nneighboring hills, can be made by special excursion steamers \nleaving from points near the Ferry building. Three companies \nconduct these excursions at present, and probably there will \nbe many more of them before the exposition opens, for no city \nin the world commands such a fine sheet of water for this sort \nof cruising. The customary price is $ I . \n\nThe usual course includes the northern waterfront. Expo- \nsition site, Fort Scott, the Golden Gate, Sausalito, Raccoon \nStraits, across the Bay to Winehaven and Richmond, and \nback to the San Francisco side, passing near Yerba Buena \nisland with its naval training station, light house and buoy \ndepot. \n\nYou are apt to pass a torpedo boat flotilla at anchor at \nSausalito, and battleships anchored off the southern water \nfront at San Francisco, and in returning will run past the \nUnion Iron Works, where the "Oregon" and the "Olympia" \nwere built. Lecturers explain all points of interest on these \ntrips. \n\n\n\nFERRY LINES, BAY AND RIVER STEAMBOATS. \n\nThe suburban transportation services connecting San Fran- \ncisco with the east shore communities are probably the finest \nthat exist, and tempt the traveler to the calm half-hour voyage \nacross the Bay. The ferry boats are large and commodious; \n\n\n\nFerr^ Lines 255 \n\nand at night, weaving back and forth with their hundreds of \nelectric lights full on, they make a fairy-like spectacle, only \nexceeded in brilliance by the sparkling lamps flung broadcast \nover the hills of San Francisco, which one sees from the \nwater on the return trip in the evening. \n\nBoats leave the Ferry building at the foot of Market street, \nsome running north to Sausalito, others northeast to Richmond, \nand others east to Oakland and Alameda piers, where they \nconnect by electric trains with Oakland, Alameda, Melrose, \nFruitvale, Piedmont and Berkeley. The lines operating these \nferries are the Southern Pacific, the Key System, the Atchison, \nTopeka and Santa Fe and the Western Pacific. \n\nThe following directions will assist visitors to make use \nof the ferries and river boats, which afford some of the enjoy- \nable experiences of a visit to San Francisco: \n\nSouthern Pacific Ferr^ System. Boats leave from the right \nof the main entrance of the Ferry building at twenty and \nthirty minute intervals throughout the day for Oakland and \nAlameda piers, where they connect with trains for Oakland, \nMelrose, Alameda, Berkeley and way stops, including Fruit- \nvale, Stonehurst, Elmhurst, Fitchburg, Emeryville, Shellmound \nPark, Northbrae, Thousand Oaks, and Albany. This is the \nmost extensive ferry and electric train system in the country, \nthe boats connecting with 826 electric trains a day. The \nmechanical equipment, including steel cars throughout, is the \nfinest to be found in such service. \n\nAutomobiles are taken only on the Oakland Harbor Ferry \nof the Southern Pacific, which runs half hourly from the foot \nof Mission street, south of the Ferry building, to the foot of \nBroadway, Oakland, from 6 a, m. to 9 p. m., week days, \nand up to 11 p. m., Sundays. After these hours, autos are \nadmitted to the regular Oakland ferry. \n\nXe\\j S})stem. Boats leave the Ferry building, foot of \nMarket street, (left of main entrance) at fifteen or twenty \nminute intervals during the day, beginning on the even hour, \nand connect at the Key System pier with electric trains for \n\n\n\n256 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nBerkeley, Oakland, Piedmont, Claremont, Northbrae, Al- \nbany and Richmond. \n\nNorthrvestern Pacific Ferr\\) (Sausalito) : Boats leave the \nFerry building, foot of Market street (toward north end of \nbuilding) at 30-minute intervals during the morning and after- \nnoon, and hourly during the middle of the day, and connect \nat Sausalito vv^ith trains for Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Healds- \nburg, Cloverdale, Ukiah, Willits, Longvale and Sherwood; \nand, by branch lines, for Guerneville, Sebastopol and Sonoma \nValley points. \n\nSan Rafael, San Anselmo, Larkspur, Ross, Mill Valley \nand Fairfax are reached by this route. Look for the name \nof your destination on the train boards at Sausalito. \n\nFrom Sausalito there is an hourly ferry to Tiburon and \nBelvedere. From Tiburon trains leave for Hilarita, Reed, \nSan Clemente, Green Brae, Schuetzen Park and San Rafael. \nFor Sausalito there are eight boats every week day and ten \non Sundays. \n\nMt. Tamalpais and the Muir Woods are reached from Mill \nValley via the Sausalito ferry, by three trains a day. \n\nStage conection for the State prison at San Quentin is made \ntwice daily at Greenbrae. \n\nSanta Fe Ferr^ (Local service). Boats leave the Ferry \nbuilding, foot of Market street, for Ferry Point, and there \nconnect with trains for Richmond. There are eight boats a \nday. \n\nWestern Pacific. Four ferry boats a day leave the north- \nernmost slip. Ferry building, and connect with the overland \ntrains of this company. \n\nCalifornia Navigation and Improvement Company. For \nStockton, Antioch, Pittsburg, Crockett, Benicia, Martinez, \nBay Point and way landings. Boat leaves Washington street \nwharf, north of the Ferry building, daily except Sundays at \n6 p. m. Office, foot of Washington street, north of Ferry \nbuilding. \n\n\n\nRiver Steamboats 257 \n\n\n\nCalifornia Transportation Company. For Sacramento, and \nriver landings, and connecting with Northern Electric railroad \nfor Marysville, Yuba City, Oroville and Chico. Boats leave \nJackson street wharf at 5 p. m. daily except Sundays. \n\nSacramento River Steamers; Netherlands Route. (South- \nern Pacific). Boats leave Pacific street wharf daily except \nSundays at I p. m. and 9 p. m., and daily except Sundays \nand Wednesdays at 8:30 a. m. \n\nMonticello Steamship Company. Vallejo (en route to Mare \nIsland) and connecting with San Francisco, Napa and Calis- \ntoga railway (electric) to Napa, St. Helena and Calistoga. \nBoats leave foot of Merchant street, north of Ferry building. \n(Ferry runs every hour from Vallejo to Mare Island Navy \nYard.) \n\nNapa Transportation Company. For Napa, Vallejo and \nMare Island. Boats leave Mission street wharf, south of the \nFerry building, at 5 p. m., daily except Sundays; touch at \nMare Island Navy Yard and run up Napa creek to Napa. \n\nPetaluma and Santa Rosa Railway. For Petaluma, and \nconnecting with P. & S. R. electric line to Sebastopol and \nSanta Rosa, Graton and Forestville. Boats leave Washing- \nton street bulkhead daily, except Sundays, at 11 a. m. and \n4 p. m. \n\n\n\nCITIES OF THE EAST SHORE. \n\nOakland, Alameda, Berkeley, Richmond, Piedmont, Hay- \nward and their outlying suburbs \n\nCan he reached by the Southern Pacific or the Key System \nferry, leaving the Ferry building at the foot of Market street, \nand connecting rvith electric suburban trains. The Southern \nPacific ferry depot is in the Ferry building to the south, or \nright of the center as you approach down Market street; the \nKey System depot is to the north of the center. Boats of each \nsystem run every twenty minutes. Fare, ten cents. The auto- \n\n\n\n258 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\nmobile ferr^ is operated from a slip at the foot of Mission \nstreet^ south of the Ferry building. \n\nThe cities of the east side of the bay are an important and \ninteresting part of the community that is growing up in the \nSan Francisco bay basin. \n\nTheir recent growth has been rapid. Oakland has, in fact, \noutgrown its suburban relationship, and become a city of \nimportance, with a population estimated in 1913 at 200,000. \nBerkeley has about 40,000 inhabitants and Alameda over \n23,000. \n\nUp the Bay shore, north of Berkeley, is Richmond, with \nits factories and shops. Southward out of Oakland are the \ntowns of Hayward, San Leandro, San Lorenzo, Niles and \nMission San Jose. \n\nFrom almost any elevation in San Francisco one can see \nacross the Bay, in clear weather, the Oakland City Hall, one \nof the tallest buildings west of New York. It stands in a \npark in the heart of the city, at the corner of Washington and \nFourteenth streets. It is 335 feet to the top of the lantern \nand cupola, and 376 feet to the cluster of lights that shine \nabroad every night from the top of the steel mast surmounting \nthe whole. From the cupola one can see into nine counties \nsurrounding the bay \xe2\x80\x94 Alameda, Marin, Sonoma, Napa, So- \nlano, Contra Costa, Santa Clara, San Mateo and San Fran- \ncisco. \n\nOakland has a very extensive street car system that enables \nyou to go almost anywhere on the east side of the Bay, from \nBerkeley to Hayward. For five cents you can ride from the \nnortherly limits of Berkeley, through Oakland to the upper \nend of Fruitvale, a distance of twenty miles. \n\nGenerally speaking, the whole street railway system is \nbrought to a focus at Thirteenth and Broadway, or at corners \nwithin a block of that one, and this is the key to transporta- \ntion for the traveler in Oakland. You reach this point either \non the /Cep System to Twelfth and Broadway, a block south \nof Thirteenth, or by the Southern Pacific to Seventh and \n\n\n\nCities of the East Shore 259 \n\nBroadiva}^ and trolley from there to Twelfth street. The \nHayward car, the Dimond Canyon, the Mills College, the \nPiedmont, the Alameda, the University, the College avenue \nand several more lines afford delightful rides from Oakland in \nevery direction. \n\nThe Grand avenue car will take you to Lakeside Park, on \nAdams Point, at the north end of Lake Merritt, one of the \nbeauty spots of Califorina. \n\nOakland\'s Free Library, at Fourteenth and Grove streets, is \nworth a visit for the fine mural paintings it contains. \n\nThe Municipal Museum is on Oak street north of Thir- \nteenth. It has a great collection of Indian basketry, besides \ncolonial, Indian and South Sea work. Open on week days \nfrom 10 to 5, and on Sundays from 2 to 6 in the afternoon. \nAdmittance is free. \n\nIdora Park is the largest amusement park in the West, has \na good theater where opera bouffe is occasionally given, and is \na paradise for children. During the summer light opera is \ngiven in the open air without other charge than the park ad- \nmittance fee. \n\nYoung Mens Christian Association, Telegraph avenue and \nHobart street. Can be reached by the Telegraph and Shat- \ntuck avenue cars. At Fourteenth and Castro streets is the \nhome of the Young Women\'s Christian Association. \n\nThe Hotel Oakland, recently completed at a cost of about \na million and a half, occupies the block between Thirteenth \nand Fourteenth, and Alice and Harrison streets. Its large \nbanquet halls are the scene of the civic festivities and social \nlife of the east shore city. Other good hotels are the St. \nMark, at Twelfth and Franklin streets; the Metropole, at \nThirteenth and Jefferson ; the Athens, at Broadway and Fif- \nteenth; the Crellin, at Eighth and Washington; the A.dams, \non Twelfth, between Jefferson and Clay; the Arcade, at San \nPablo and Twentieth, and the Key Route Inn, at Broadway \nand Twenty-second. \n\n\n\n260 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nOpposite the Hotel Oakland is the Oakland Chamber of \nCommerce, at 245 Thirteenth street. Nobody should visit \nOakland without seeing this place, and its collection of "pro- \ncessed" flowers and small fruits. \n\nTwelfth street is the eastward outlet of Oakland through \nEast Oakland with its fine old residences and down the shore \n\n\n\n\nACROSS THE BAY, FROM NOB HILL. \n\nof the Bay. The Hayward car, from Twelfth and Broad- \nway, will take you on a beautiful ride through the cherry \norchards of San Leandro to the thriving town of Ha^xvard, \nthirteen miles south of the city. At Broadmoor, on the way, \nis one of Luther Burbank\'s experimental farms. \n\nHayward is also on the Foothill Boulevard, one of the en- \njoyable things of Oakland for those that have automobiles \nor care to hire them. Near Hayward is the State Game \nFarm. \n\nSouth of Hayward the automobile highway continues to \nNiles, where is located the California Nursery, the largest \njingle block of land devoted to nursery purposes in the country. \n\n\n\nCities of the East Shore 261 \n\nIt makes a bewildering display of citrus and deciduous fruit \nstock, amid flourishing palms and semi-tropical plants of many \ninteresting varieties. \n\nIn this favored strip of country is situated the old Mission \nSan Jose (not near, nor connected with, the city of San Jose), \nwhere there are many interesting souvenirs of early Spanish \ntimes. In the cemetery are the graves of the Bernals, the \nAlvisos and other old Spanish families. \n\nMission San Jose is near Irvington station on the Southern \nPacific, whence one can reach *\'Palmdale,\'\' a private estate \non which there is such a luxuriant growth of tropical plants \nthat travelers have gone long distances to see it. With its \npalm and olive groves, some of the trees of which are 1 00 \nyears old, this is one of the most interesting sights of the \neastern shore of the Bay. A stage runs from Irvington. \n\nThese places of distinctively Californian beauty and charm \nbeyond Hayward are best reached by automobile, down the \nFoothill Boulevard, which connects with fine automobile roads \nclear to San Jose and beyond. \n\nRiding out East Fourteenth street, one catches glimpses \nto southward, of many masts of vessels rising from the water \nat the foot of every street. These lie in Oakland\'s inner \nharbor, connected with the Bay by the "Estuary," a channel \nthirty feet deep and eight hundred feet wide. This is the \nlocality of many of the scenes in Jack London\'s novel, "John \nBarleycorn." \n\nThe Oakland Baseball Park is at San Pablo and Park \navenues. The grand stand is an exceptionally fine structure. \nThe park can be reached by the San Pablo avenue cars from \nany point on Broadway south of Fourteenth street, or by the \nKe}) System ferr}) from San Francisco. \n\nThe residence section about Piedmont and Piedmont Park \nis one of the most attractive in the country, with handsome \nhomes set in green gardens where palm trees and roses flourish. \nThis district can also be reached from the center of the city, \nby the Piedmont avenue cars. \n\n\n\n262 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nClaremont, a sheltered cove of the hills north of Oakland, \nis another beautiful suburb. Here is rising a great tourist \nhotel in a superb location, amid the most attractive surround- \nings. Claremont can be reached by the Xep System ferr}) \ndirect from San Francisco, or by the Telegraph avenue line \nfrom the center of Oakland, transferring at Ashby to a car \nbound east. North of Claremont is the State institution for \nthe deaf, dumb and blind. \n\nThe Walnut Creek and Mount Diablo country^ can be \nseen to good advantage from the cars of the Oakland & An- \ntioch electric railroad, leaving from the Key System pier. \n\nAcross Oakland\'s estuary harbor, to the southward, is \n\nAlameda. This fine residence city can be reached by trolley \ncar from Oakland, running south on Washington street, the \nfirst street west of Broadway, or by Southern Pacific ferry \nfrom San Francisco, taking the boat to Alameda pier. \n\nOne of the "sights" of Alameda is the arctic fleet of the \nAlaska Packers Association in her harbor; and the ship-build- \ning plants along her water front are another. Yachting, canoe- \ning and swimming are popular sports in the warm waters of \nthe Bay, along the south shore, and give the place a distinctly \naquatic character. \n\nThe Alameda Baths, a fine outdoor place for a swim, can be \nreached from San Francisco by taking the Southern Pacific \nferry to Alameda pier and the Encinal Loop train to the \nsecond stop, at Fifth street \n\nThe Horseshoe route of the Southern Pacific ferry system \noffers a good way to see part of Alameda and the growing \nindustrial district about Oakland Harbor. \n\nTake the ferry to Alameda Pier and there take the train \nmarked \'* Horseshoe.\'\' \n\n\n\nKEY TROLLEY TRIP. \n\nOne of the most enjoyable and profitable ways to see the \ncities of the eastern shore is by means of the Key Trolley \n\n\n\nKe}) Trolley Trip 263 \n\n\n\nTrip, personally conducted, under the management of the San \nFrancisco-Oakland Terminal Railways. \n\nThe trip takes a day and costs a dollar. The excursion \nleaves by the Key System ferry, at the foot of Market street, \nat 10 o\'clock a. m., and returns to San Francisco at 4:50. \nA stop is made at the Key Route Inn, Oakland, for luncheon. \nAll other expenses are included in the original charge. \n\nSixty-eight miles are covered in the day\'s journey, including \nthe transit of the bay on one of the Key System\'s ferry steam- \ners. Berkeley, Northbrae, Thousand Oaks, Claremont, Oak- \nland, Piedmont, Melrose, San Leandro and Hayward are \nvisited; all interesting and beautiful cities and suburbs. If \none misses the 1 o\'clock trip, another starts at 1 p. m. and \njoins the first, omitting the Berkeley part of the journey. \n\nAt Piedmont is a beautiful park, and one of the principal \nart collections in the West. Melrose has an ostrich farm, \nwhich is one of the places visited. \n\n\n\nPIEDMONT PARK AND THE HAVENS ART \nCOLLECTION. \n\nSituated in the hills northeast of Oakland, east side of the \nBay; open from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. (Park closes at 6:30 p. \nm. ) Admittance to park, 1 cents for adults, 5 cents for \nchildren between 5 and 1 4 ; under 5 years, free. Admittance \nto art gallery, 1 cents. \n\nCross the Bay, either by Southern Pacific or Key System \nferry. Take Piedmont avenue trolley line, either at Seventh \nand Broadway station of the Southern Pacific, or at the end \nof the Piedmont branch of the Key System. \n\nThere is a club house and a popular-price cafe, an open \nair amphitheater, where *\'al fresco" performances sometimes \ntake place, a children\'s playground, with donkeys to ride and \npony carts. \n\n\n\n264 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nDirectly across from the gate house, one passes the sulphur \nsprings, and the band stand, where open air concerts are \ngiven every Sunday from 1 to 4 p. m. ; and beyond that is \nthe Art Gallery. Beyond the art gallery there is a basketball \nfield, and a tennis court. \n\nPIEDMONT ART GALLERY. \n\nThis collection, brought together by Mr. Frank C. Havens, \nof Oakland, is housed in a building 400 feet long, of ten \nchambers, in which there now hang some 450 paintings. Among \nother good thmgs it contains a Julien Dupre, a Corregio, a \nPaulus Potter from the Hoe collection of New York, and a \nportrait by Jansen Van Ceulen from the same collection. \nPossibly more interesting than these from some standpoints \nare a number of Russian canvases that were part of the St. \nLouis Exposition. \n\nAnother delight of artist visitors is Hans Hansen\'s "Interior \nof a Copenhagen Restaurant.\'\' \n\nOne of the popular pieces is a large painting of the cats \nonce belonging to Mrs. Kate Johnson of San Francisco, en- \ntitled, "My Wife\'s Lovers." \n\nOld San Franciscans will remember the "Sampson and \nDelilah," by Jacobs, which hung in Hackett\'s Palace of Art \non Post street near Montgomery before the fire. In the upper \nright hand corner are a couple of small rents in the canvas, \nsaid to be bullet holes. This painting made its debut in the \nBank Exchange, at the corner of Montgomery and Wash- \nington streets, San Francisco. It was purchased by Milton \nS. Latham, one of the early Governors of the State, and \nresold by him to Hackett. \n\nCalifornia artists are well represented, and a painting that \nnever fails to awaken the delight of the lovers of the scenery \nof the bay region, as well as the admiration of all artists that \nsee it, is Thad Welch\'s "Tamalpais." \n\nThere is a William Keith of forty years ago: "The Cali- \nfornian Alps." It is of the beginning of the Keiths, and \n\n\n\nThe University) of California \n\n\n\n265 \n\n\n\nshows his early mastery of the structure of the mountains and \nthe rocks. \n\nSpace will not permit a full enumeration, but a picture lover \nwill find enough here to delight him for several hours. \n\n\n\n\nTHE HEAIJST (JHEKK THHATHH, I5EHKKLEV. \n\n\n\nBERKELEY AND THE UNIVERSITY OF CALI- \nFORNIA\xe2\x80\x94THE HEARST GREEK THEATER. \n\nThis will make a most enjoyable day\'s outing from San \nFrancisco, and is an experience no visitor to this locality should \nmiss. \n\nTo reach Berkeley, take either the Southern Pacific ferry \nor the Key System ferry from the foot of Market street, and \nthe Berkeley train, on the Oakland mole of either line. \n\nBefore visiting the University it is well to get an idea of the \ncity and of bay geography, and to see at the same time one \nof the best views of San Francisco Bay by taking a trolley \n\n\n\n266 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nMAP OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. \n\n\n\nThe Hearst Greek Theater 267 \n\nride on the Cragmont car, of the Euclid avenue line, which \nyou can board on University avenue at Shattuck. \n\nThe University of California occupies 520 acres on the \nslopes of the Berkeley hills, commanding a view of the Bay \nof San Francisco and some times far out to sea ; one of the \ngrandest and most inspiring locations for an institution of \nthis kind. \n\nThere are groves of pine, eucalyptus and ancient oaks. The \narchitecture of the new buildings is imposing and beautiful. \n\nThe world-famous Creef( Theater, gift of William Ran- \ndolph Hearst, lies eastward of the main buildings, in a hollow \nof Charter Hill, once known as Ben Weed\'s Amphitheater. \nIt seats 8,000 people, and here have appeared such artists as \nSchumann-Heink, Gadski, Nordica, Tetrazzini, Bispham, \nWullner, Petchinikoff, Beel, Adele Verne, Josef Hoffman, \nMyrtle Elvyn, the Ben Greet players, Constance Crawley, \nNance O\'Neill, Maude Adams, Margaret Anglin and Sarah \nBernhardt \xe2\x80\x94 some of the greatest players of the world, in their \ngreatest roles. \n\nCalifornia Field, scene of football contests, is south of the \nold campus. It seats 24,000 spectators. North of the field \nis the California Museum of Vertebrate Zoology, with more \nthan 24,000 birds and 1 9,000 mammals of the Pacific Coast. \nNot far away, in a galvanized iron building, is a most inter- \nesting Museum of Casts, showing the beauties of Greek and \nRoman sculpture \xe2\x80\x94 the gift of Mrs. Phoebe Hearst. \n\nTHE CHRISTIAN SCIENCE CHURCH OF BERKELEY. \n\nNo one should leave Berkeley, (or for that matter, San \nFrancisco), without a visit to the Christian Science church at \nBowditch street and Dwight Way; a shrine of beauty that \nwould be famous if it were in Europe. It is easily reached by \neither the College avenue or the Telegraph avenue line, being \nabout half way between them, and may be viewed on applica- \ntion to the janitor any afternoon except Sundays and Wednes- \ndays. \n\n\n\n268 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nIt is one of the works of B. R. Maybeck, architect of the \nPalace of Fine Arts at the Panama-Pacific Exposition. The \nexterior reveals surprising originality in timbering and trellising, \nand in the concrete window traceries. Inside there is a startling \nboldness of composition and color. Masses of gildmg flung \naloft on beams and trusses and concrete screens, splashes of \nemerald and vermilion, delicate blues, and gouts of madder, \nand mingled elements of Gothic and rich Byzantine done in \na spirit of prodigal exuberance, convey a resistless, uplifting \nsense of joyousness and vitality. \n\nAll the backgrounds are a soft and gentle gray. The walls \nand floors are gray, the principal columns and pilasters are \ngray, the pews are gray, the open timbering is gray, and \ngray light filters through the wide windows; until the whole \ncolorful glory of it seems to swim in a cool and pearly mist. \nFree from precedent or convention, this edifice is the embodi- \nment of the new artistic spirit of the West; large, vigorous, \nspontaneous, reaching heights of beauty possibly unattainable \nthrough more orthodox methods. \n\n\n\nSAN LEANDRO AND LAKE CHABOl . \n\nA pleasant day\'s outing, involving a visit to the pretty town \nof San Leandro, across the bay, and a walk of about a mile \ninto the Alameda county hills, can be made with Lake Chabot \nas its objective. \n\nTake Southern Pacific ferr]^ to Oakland Mole, and San \nLeandro train from there, fcp ipap of Havenscourt and Broad- \nmoor. Get off at Estudillo avenue, San Leandro, and walk \nnorth. \n\nCrossing the Foothill Boulevard, which runs out from Oak- \nland, take the hill road, a continuation of Estudillo avenue, and \nturn to the right at the first fork. If going by automobile, \nleave the Foothill Boulevard at old Hunters\' Inn, just beyond \nthe concrete bridge, and climb the hill road, turning to the \nright at the first opportunity. \n\n\n\nRichmond 269 \n\nLake Chabot is the reservoir from which the cities of Oak- \nland, Alameda and Berkeley are supplied with water. It \nstands 328 feet above sea level, a\'-d has a capacity, up to the \nspillway, of eight billion gallons. It is four and one-half miles \nlong and twelve miles around. \n\nThe lake is set in rolling hills, timbered in places, but with \nmuch open country and rounded, brushy knolls. Two long \nblue wings reach far up into romantic canyons. The tributary \nwater-shed has an extent of 48 square miles. \n\nA day could easily be spent on a jaunt to this pretty spot, \nand through the level lands about San Leandro, which are set \nthick with cherry and apricot orchards and in Spring are a \nwilderness of perfumed blossoms. The Estudillo House at \nSan Leandro, preserving the name of the old Spanish family \nof this locality, is a good place for luncheon. \n\n\n\nRICHMOND, A NEW INDUSTRIAL GROWTH. \n\nRichmond, Contra Costa county, has grown from a wheat \nfield to an industrial city of 15,000 people in about twelve \nyears. No better example exists of the robust expansion of \nindustry about San Francisco Bay during the last decade, and \nany one interested in the development of modern industrial \nplants will be able to find some of their highest types here. \n\nA round trip to Richmond can be made very comfortably \nby the Atchison, TopeJ^a and Santa Fe ferry from the foot \nof Market street, for forty-five cents. There are two boats \nin the morning to Ferry Point, in Contra Costa county, whence \na train will convey you to the town, and two returning in the \nafternoon, so that you can have several hours to inspect the \nneighborhood. The town is also on the Southern Pacific Rail- \nroad, and in addition, can be reached by way of the Keyi \nSystem. \n\nThe Santa Fe has great repair shops here. The Richmond \nrefinery of the Standard Oil Company is the largest west of \n\n\n\n270 Handhool^ for San Francisco \n\nNew Jersey and is destined to become the greatest in the world. \nIt covers, already, 300 acres of ground, laid out in streets and \nblocks, and receives crude oil from the Kern County fields \nby a pipe line 260 miles long. \n\nIn the outskirts, at Pullman, are the western shops of the \nPullman Palace Car company, the principal establishment of \nthis concern west of the Mississippi. The industrial develop- \nment that has its larger nucleus at Richmond extends clear up \nthe bay shore to Bay Point, Antioch, Pittsburg and similar \npoints. It is San Francisco extended. \n\nAt Winehaven, a suburb with which Richmond is con- \nnected by a belt railroad, are the great cellars of the California \nWine Association ; the largest wine vaults in the world, and \nthe central plant of the world\'s largest wine making organiza- \ntion. Both grapes and wine are brought here from the Asso- \nciation\'s vineyards and wineries all over California. Among \nthe huge redwood tuns in these cellars are twelve miles of \npassages, and the storage capacity is about ten million gallons. \nThe shipping capacity is over 500,000 gallons a month, and \nbetween six and eight million gallons go out every year to all \nparts of the world. Sixty-seven kinds of wine are shipped from \nthis plant, and from its pier forty or more ships annually sail \nfor New York alone. \n\nWinehaven is rather difficult for the traveler to reach from \nRichmond, but is usually one of the features of a bay ex- \ncursion. \n\n\n\nSAUSALITO, THE *\'SORRENTO OF AMERICA." \n\nSausalito, six miles north of San Francisco, is the water- \ngate to Marin, Sonoma, Mendocino, Lake and Humboldt \ncounties; in fact to all that infinitely varied and attractive \ncountry made accessible by the Northwestern Pacific railroad. \nIn addition it is an entrancing villa suburb only 30 minutes \nfrom San Francisco, set amid oak groves by the water-side. \n\n\n\nSausalito 271 \n\non hills that rise directly from the bay and that command \nviews as fine as any to be found on that famous Route de la \nCorniche which Napoleon built along the Riviera from Nice \nto Mentone. \n\nAfter seeing San Francisco a visitor could hardly do bet- \nter with a day\'s time than to make a ferry trip to Sausalito and \ntake the trails from there to heights overlooking the Bay and \nthe Golden Gate, and on toward the Ocean. Or, if one \nwishes to see Belvedere, with its villas, and its orange, lemon \nand grapefruit trees, it can be reached by an hourly boat from \nSausalito. To reach the latter place. \n\nTake Sausalito ferry (Northwestern Pacific) from the \nFerry building, north of the main entrance. \n\nBoats run every half hour through the morning and even- \ning; hourly during the middle of the day. The round trip \nfare is 25 cents. \n\nOn this trip, one of the most interesting by ferry, you pass \nalong the northern piers and the old grain sheds, obtaining a \nclose view of some big shipping, and of the industrial and \ncommercial part of the city that lies at the base of Telegraph \nHill. You pass eastward of Alcatraz Island, close to the \nmilitary prison; and westward of Angel Island. \n\nApproaching the landing slip, you pass gay white yachts \nat anchor, and perhaps lean, gray torpedo boats and hungry- \nlooking four-funneled destroyers. The San Francisco Yacht \nclub has its club house here. \n\nAll over the hill slopes, peeping from groves of low- \ngrowing oaks, are villas and bungalows, between which the \nsteeps are scaled by long flights of stairs. \n\nAt Sausalito you can get automobiles or horses; or, if you \nare even but an average walker, you will find here the begin- \nning of two paths that will show you grand scenery. \n\nSuppose you go afoot, as far as you choose, on the \nshort cut to Fort Barry, which is situated near Point Bonita, \nthe northern outer headland corresponding to Point Lobos. \nThe road goes over the hills. To reach it, take Excelsior \n\n\n\n272 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nLane, beginning at a flight of wooden steps directly west of \nthe little rock-walled palm garden near the ferry landing. You \nmount by one flight after another, crossing Buckley avenue \nand Harrison avenue, between the bungalows and the thick- \neted hillside gardens, until you come to San Carlos avenue. \nHere turn to the left, on San Carlos, and then take Spencer \navenue, the first turn to the right, and follow it around the bend \nand up the hill. At the plank-covered reservoir keep to the \nright-hand road. A trail marked Bonita Point takes off \nto the left, but while it is more direct, the road makes an \neasier ascent. \n\nLooking back from these hillsides the view is one of \nmagnificence. Through northward hill-gaps, Tamalpais ap- \npears in one of its loveliest aspects, ridged and wooded, seamed \nwith great canyons, and with placid, verdant Mill Valley \nflowing sinuously toward the bay. Richardson\'s bay itself \nis like a mountain lake, from here. You will look up Raccoon \nstraits, between Belvedere and Angel Island, to San Pablo \nbay \xe2\x80\x94 "up river direct" the shipping men call it, for into San \nPablo bay the waters of the Sacramento and the San Joaquin \nrivers find their way to the larger bay below. Point Pedro \nruns out from the left, and opposite one can see the oil tanks \nat Richmond, directly across the water. \n\nSouth of Angel Island you look across to Berkeley and \nOakland and the long range of hills crouching behind them. \nThis is a beautiful view at night, when the foothills are \nstrewn with lights like swarms of fireflies. Far to the south \nappears the Oakland city hall. Over the hills behind Oakland \ncan be seen the crest of Mt. Diablo. \n\nAlcatraz is in the foreground, and back of it is Yerba \nBuena island, which the ferry boats pass on their way to \nOakland and Berkeley. Lastly, as you turn southward, you \nsee what appears to be the tip of a long peninsula, crowned \nwith houses. It is San Francisco\'s Telegraph Hill, standing \nlike a sentry where the great ships pass to reach the city\'s \neastern and southern docks. \n\n\n\n)ausa \n\n\n\nlito 273 \n\n\n\nOther water scenes there are that show us vastness and \ninimitable distance, but they lack the Hmrtations that make \nthis view a matchless composition. Water-scapes need boun- \ndary, and this one has it \xe2\x80\x94 a frame of the eternal hills and at \nleast one mighty mountain, making the noblest setting it is \npossible to conceive. Straits, islands, ships, cities, and hills \nand valleys spread themselves before you in such a panorama \nas one can find nowhere else. Not even the view from \nVirgil\'s tomb across the Bay of Naples can compare with this. \n\nOver upland pastures you may go, through tempting stiles \nand by land covered with wild flowers in Spring, catching \nglimpses of the city or the sand dunes beyond the Park, and \nseeing cupped in notches of the hills, bits of sapphire which \nare the waters of the Golden Gate. Soon the ocean bursts \nupon you ; and the dazzling brightness of it may lure you on \nto Rodeo lagoon or Tennessee Cove if you are fond of roving. \n\nWe can give you no permission to pass over these private \nlands, but it has heretofore been the careless and comfort- \nable California practice to take such permission for granted. \n\nPast Rodeo lagoon (the long sheet of water that seems \ncut in from the ocean) the road leads down to Fort Barry \nand Point Bonita, and from here one can take the lower \nroad back by way of Fort Baker. It is worth while, how- \never, to return as you came, for the sake of the shifting scenes \nas you descend. \n\nIf you are an American citizen, with proper identification, \nyou can visit the defenses at any of the forts around the bay \nby application to the authorities at the post you desire to visit. \nCameras must be left at home. \n\nOn application to the authorities at Forts Baker and Barry \na limited number of automobiles may be permitted to pass \nover the public road; which, however, will be found to be \nnarrow \xe2\x80\x94 too narrow at many points west of the Fort Baker \ngarrison proper, to allow two vehicles to pass. \n\nTo reach Fort Baker, directly from Sausalito, follow Water \nstreet southward froni the town and turn to the left at South \n\n\n\n274 Handboot( for San Francisco \n\nstreet. The reservation line is marked by distinctive signs \nand an iron gate. There are about two thousand acres in \nthe Forts Baf^er and Barry reservation, extending from Sau- \nsalito to the Pacific Ocean. The portion east of Point Diablo \nis known as Fort Baker, and west of it as Fort Barry. \n\nHere you breast the hills and mount until you top a ridge, \nand see in a pretty hollow beneath you the barracks and \nguard house and the officers\' quarters of the post. \n\nA few hundred yards beyond a little wharf you see the \nNeedles, and Lime Point Light House. Here, and just west- \nward, is the narrowest and deepest part of the Golden Gate, \nwhere the tides, and the volume of water brought down by \nthe Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, keep the channel \nscoured to a depth of 63 fathoms. \n\nNear the Needles the road winds up and around the hill \nat about a ten per cent grade, and after a mile of it you find \nyourself just above the Light House, whence you look down \non the Golden Gate and the little antiquated brick structure \nopposite on Fort Point, known as Fort Winfield Scott, built \nbefore the Civil War. \n\nKeeping to the right after passing this bluff, and following \nthe fence, one reaches Fort Barry garrison, after a journey \nof some seven miles from Sausalito. \n\nTwo miles farther is Point Bonita, with its Light House. \nThis point is farther westward than the seal rocks; and here \nif. an interesting relic of former days: an old cannon used \nin 1850 as the first fog signal anywhere near the Golden Gate. \n\nIf the pedestrian on the jaunt to Fort Barry will leave the \nmain road at the divide a little over two miles west of Fort \nBaker garrison, and take the path around Diablo, he will be \nrewarded by a view surpassingly beautiful. \n\nAcross the Golden Gate, in the foreground, and to the left, \nstretch the wooded hillsides of the Presidio. Farther on is \nspread the fairy-land of the Panama-Pacific Exposition. \nThen comes the city, and to eastward of it, the Bay with its \nislands and the cities of the eastern shore. \n\n\n\nMl Tamalpais 275 \n\n\n\nThe crowning feature of the scene is San Francisco itself, \nor at least the part of it that appears along its northern edge. \nFrom Harbor View to Telegraph Hill the houses stretch, block \nafter block of them, climbing the hills to the crenelated sky- \nline in great, square platoons. Shipping from the seven seas \nis scattered along the city\'s base. Smoke from hundreds of fac- \ntories and mills goes up into its shifting atmosphere. As you \nlook you realize that this is the one grand imperial position \nfor the western metropolis of America \xe2\x80\x94 at the gate to the \nPacific, which is at the same time the gate from the Pacific \nto the western world: the meeting place of continent and ocean, \na position of power and command almost identical in every \ncommercially strategic sense with the position of New York. \n\nYou will be fortunate if, on your return, the day is about \ndone and you get the ferry back to San Francisco in the early \nevening. It is a wondrous thing to see the city veiled, like \na sorceress, in twilight mists, the sky above the Golden Gate \nred with the glow of a dying California day, and Alcatraz \nthrobbing its five-second pulses of light to homing mariners \ntwenty miles at sea. \n\n\n\nMT. TAMALPAIS AND THE MUIR WOODS. \n\nTo Mt. Tamalpais it is six miles by ferry, five miles on \nthe electric train, and eight on the Mt. Tamalpais and Muir \nWoods steam railroad; a total of 19 miles. \n\nFrom every good view point in San Francisco one can see, \nacross the Golden Gate, this lofty height, reared a clean half- \nmile above the waters of the Bay. To be exact, it is 2592 \nfeet high, only 48 feet less than half a mile, and has every \neffect of being higher because it rises almost directly from \nsea level. And if the vicinity has many and varied beau- \nties worth hunting out and enjoying one by one, Tamalpais \nshows them all in one splendid picture, and throws on the \nscreen for good measure a panorama of the Ocean, the Faral- \n\n\n\n276 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nCOASTING DOWN TAMALPAIS. \n\n\n\nMl Tamalpais 111 \n\n\n\nlone islands, the Golden Gate, the Exposition site, the Bay \nwith its islands and ships, the cities across, the estuary of \nthe great rivers, Mts. Hamilton, Diablo and St. Helena, and, \non clear days, a view straight across the interior valley of Cali- \nfornia to the snow-capped Sierra, one hundred and fifty miles \naway. A circular walk around the peak shows the varied \nfeatures of the surrounding country in rotation. \n\nHere one sees what might be called the ground plan of \nthe greatest landlocked harbor on the Pacific Ocean, and \nof the region surrounding it, destined to play so large a part \nin the affairs of men. \n\nSo much, in passing, for the view. But the view is by \nno means all of Tamalpais. The mountain itself is a domain \nof delight. Open-air plays are given in glades near its summit. \nForests clothe its shaggy sides with laurel, buckeye, redwood, \nmanzanita and that shining green-and-vermilion "gallant of the \nglade," the madrone. Deer and other wild animals run wild \non the slopes of Tamalpais, within a few minutes\' ride of San \nFrancisco \xe2\x80\x94 and probably they often gaze from the cover of \nthese beautiful forests across a narrow sheet of water, upon \nthe great white city that bristles on the opposite hills. All \nthis within an hour of Market street. Where else in the \nworld will you find primeval forests and forest life rubbing \nelbows, as it were, with a great modern city and its hustling \nactivities ? \n\nTamalpais is a grand hike. With hob-nailed boots, a \ngood stick and a haversack for your lunch, take the Sausaliio \nferry from the foot of Market street and the Northwestern \nPacific train from Sausalito to Mill Valley, whence the trail \nleads up the mountain. You can get a boat as early as 6:45 \nand a connecting train that will land you at the beginning of \nthe climb in fifty minutes. \n\nIf it is a Sunday the trail will be thronged. If it is \nSaturday, or for that matter, any other day in the week, you \nwill be at no loss for trail companions, for the mountain is the \nplayground for thousands of San Franciscans eager as you \n\n\n\n278 \n\n\n\nHandhoof( for San Francisco \n\n\n\nare for the crystalline air and the inspiring landscapes that \nopen fresh vistas as you mount. \n\nOne can return to the city the same day, or stop over night \nat the Tavern of Tamalpais at the top. \n\nThe same trail part of the way will make another day\'s \nfine hiking, for a branch takes off from West Point, well \n\n\n\n\nIN THE MUIH WOODS. \n\n\n\nTil)l)itts, 1 hotu. \n\n\n\nup on the flank of the mountain, and thence descends to Wil- \nlow Camp, on Bolinas Bay, where there are accommodations \nfor the night. If you go there in summer to remain over, it \nis necessary to make reservations in advance. A stage line \nis also operated to Willow Camp and Bolinas from West \nPoint, daily from June to September, and the rest of the year \nconnecting with the 1 :45 trip from San Francisco on Sat- \nurday and 2 :45 on Sunday. \n\n\n\nMl Tamalpais 279 \n\n\n\nFor those that do not care to tramp it, a most convenient \nand pleasant way to reach the summit is provided by the \nMount Tamalpais and Muir Woods Railway, which runs \nfrom Mill Valley to Muir Woods and the Tavern. This is \ncalled the "crookedest railway in the world," and is inter- \nesting in itself as an example of difficult railroad construction. \n\nThe trip takes about two hours, trains connecting with the \n9:45 week day boat and train for Sausalito and Mill Valley, \nand the 8:45 on Sunday. A return can be made the same \nday, but it is a pity to miss the glories of the sunset from \nthe top. \n\nOn foggy days it is well worth the journey to look down \non the sunlit tops of the billows of grey vapor rolling in \nthrough the Gate and mantling the city and the bay. \n\nA delightful experience is the coasting ride down the moun- \ntain by the "gravity car" in the early morning after a night \nat the tavern. \n\nMuir Woods can be reached by a branch line which leaves \nthe main railroad at the "double bow knot." This is a stately \ngrove of Sequoia Sempervirem^ or California redwood, which \nshould, by all means, be seen and enjoyed as one of the main \nattractions of the Bay region. The trees are undoubtedly \nI thousands of years old, and represent the grandest forest \ngrowths of California, with the exception of the Big Trees \nin the Sierra. The woods are a government reservation and \nthus are preserved for the enjoyment of the public for all \ntime. There is a cozy inn on a sunny knoll overlooking the \nforest. All about are shaded walks leading to still and somber \ndepths among the redwoods, oaks and madrones. There are \nabout 295 acres in the grove, which is one of the most beauti- \nful of all California\'s show places. It is a gift to the nation, \nfrom William E. Kent, of Kentfield, Marin county. \n\n\n\n\n280 HandbooI( for San Francisco \n\nMARIN AND SONOMA COUNTIES. THE TRI- \nANGLE TRIP. \n\nWild mountain scenery, forests where deer and quail abound, \nvales of exquisite loveliness in which San Franciscans have \nbuilt rural homes for their families while they themselves \n"commute" it to and from their business, are to be found \nwithin an hour of the city, in the counties extending up the \ncoast from the northern peninsula partly enclosing the bay. \nNo other city has such playgrounds and such sylvan retreats \nso near it. \n\nOne of the most interesting trips that can be made in this \nregion has already been planned for the convenience of trav- \nelers. This is the so-called \n\n** Triangle Trip,\'\' of the Northwestern Pacific railroad, \nwhich takes you from the Ferry building at the foot of Market \nstreet to Sausalito, thence through San Rafael, Petaluma and \nSanta Rosa to Fulton; westward from Fulton to Guerneville \nand Monte Rio on the Russian river, and thence southward \nby Camp Meeker, Tomales, Point Reyes station and San \nAnselmo to Sausalito again, getting you back to San Fran- \ncisco at 7 p. m., after a circuit of 150 miles. \n\nThe trip costs $2.80, except Fridays and Saturdays, when \nthe price is $2.50, and Sundays when it is $2.20. \n\nThis journey skirts the foot of Mt. Tamalpais, takes you \nnorthward into beautiful hill country and rolling lands set with \norchards and vineyards, or given over to poultry raising on a \ncolossal scale, and through part of the beautiful Russian river \nvalley, where the bottom lands are covered with the light \nemerald green of hop fields, and the mountain sides rising above \nthem are clothed with shaggy forests of California redwood. \n\nSan Rafael was once the site of an old Spanish mission, \nfew traces of which remain. It is now the county seat of \nMarin county. It is a thriving town, of many fine homes and \na good business section, and is much frequented by summer \nvisitors from the city. The trip to San Rafael alone takes \n\n\n\nMarin and Sonoma Counties 281 \n\nabout an hour, and a visit will make a most enjoyable day\'s \nouting, possibly with luncheon at "Coppa\'s," down the main \nstreet, and a side trip to Pastori\'s, near San Anselmo. \n\nPetaluma, Sonoma county, is the world\'s greatest poultry \ncenter. The hens in this vicinity have laid as many as a hun- \ndred million eggs in a year, and one incubator establishment \nhas a capacity of 165,000 at a hatch. It is a rich Httle place, \nwith five banks and four newspapers. Petaluma, direct, is \nless than two hours from San Francisco, and its bridge is the \nhead of navigation on Petaluma creek. The Petaluma and \nSanta Rosa Railway, an electric line, runs from here to Sebas- \ntopol, and from there to Forestville by one branch and to \nSanta Rosa by another. Either terminus of this road makes \na good excursion from San Francisco. \n\nGertrude Atherton selected Petaluma as possessing the \nnecessary beauty and local interest for the scenes of some of \nthe most interesting chapters of her novel, "Ancestors." \n\nSanta Rosa, county seat of Sonoma county, is a handsome \nand well kept town of about 12,000 inhabitants. It is re- \nnowned as the home of the great plant breeder, Luther Bur- \nbank, and the scene of many of the labors whereby he created \nthe pitless prune, the Shasta daisy, the Burbank and Wickson \nplums, the spineless cactus and other invaluable horticultural \nforms. Travelers stopping at Santa Rosa may easily find his \nexperimental gardens, but are warned that his time belongs \nto humanity. \n\nSanta Rosa holds a great Rose Carnival in May, when it \nmakes displays of roses that can hardly be matched in the \nworld. From Fulton, stages leave for Mark West Springs. \n\nCuerneville and Monte Rio, on the Russian river, are \nfamous resorts and pleasure places for the people of San \nFrancisco, Oakland and the neighborhood. At Guerneville \none sees a remarkable sight \xe2\x80\x94 the tall stumps of the mighty \nredwood forest that once occupied the vicinity. \n\nGuerneville is 72 miles from San Francisco, and can be \nreached in 3 J/2 hours. A round trip can be made between \n\n\n\n282 Handbook for San Francisco \n\n8:45 in the morning and 7:05 at night, with 3 hours in the \ntown and vicinity. \n\nNear Monte Rio the Russian river is at its loveHest, its \nbanks clad with the verdure of wild grapes and rock maples, \nagainst a deep green background of redwood forest. Doz- \nens of boats are on the river in summer, and many in winter \nas well, when the water is not too high, for it never freezes as \neastern streams do, and, all year round, dwellers in the hill- \nside cottages are enjoying life in the open. The time to Monle \nRio from San Francisco direct is about four hours. \n\nUp river from Monte Rio a short distance is the famous \ngrove of the Bohemian Club of San Francisco, where the \nworld famous "Grove Play" is held yearly. \n\nCamp Meel^er is a popular resort for families from the \ncity. Summer cottages perch on steep hill-sides among dense \ngrowths of redwood, fir and madrone, and occasionally great \nteams of oxen can be seen hauling giant saw logs to mill. \nOne can reach Camp Meeker from the city in about four \nhours and make a round trip to this point alone between \n8:15 a. m. and 7:35 p. m. \n\nSan Anselmo is a beautiful, hill-sheltered village, with one \nof the finest climates in California. The Presbyterian Orphan- \nage is located here, and the handsome, ivy-clad stone structures \nseen from the train are the buildings of the San Francisco \nPresbyterian Theological Seminary. \n\nSan Anselmo is almost in the center of Marin county, and \nalso of Ross valley. \n\nIt is about 1 6 miles and a little over an hour from the city. \nThe return to Sausalito completes the "Triangle Trip," but \nonly begins on the beauties and interests of Marin and Sonoma \ncounties. \n\nInverness and Tomales Bay. A favorite resort for many \na San Francisco fisherman and duck hunter. In the woods \non its western shore is the little town of Inverness, where good \nboarding houses can be found, and where one M. Peridot \nkeeps a French restaurant of excellence. \n\n\n\nMarin and Sonoma Counties 283 \n\nMill Valley and Ross Valle\'^ are enchanting suburban set- \ntlements, snuggled among the long sloping buttresses of Mt. \nTamalpais. Here many San Franciscans find most satisfying \nlural conditions. \n\nThese places are on different branches of the Northwestern \nPacific. Ross can be reached in about an hour, and Mill \nValley in less than that time. \n\nSonoma, on the Sonoma branch of the Northwestern Pa- \ncific, has the only Spanish mission building owned by the \nState \xe2\x80\x94 that of St. Francis de Solano, established by the \npadres in 1823 as a health resort for the Indians. It is \npartly restored, and its thick adobe walls and tiled roof are \nvery interesting as examples of this type of construction. \n\nThe town is charmingly environed, set in a level valley, \namid vine-clad hills, and is historically interesting, for it was \nhere that a party of American settlers, determined to achieve \nindependence from Mexico, and abetted by John C. Fremont, \nraised the "Bear Flag" in 1846. On a huge rock in the \nPlaza is a tablet commemorating the event. \n\nThe trip to Sonoma, Boyes Hot Springs or Glen Ellen \ncan easily be made in a day, leaving San Francisco at 9:15 \na. m. and getting back at 6:05 p. m., with time to spare. \nThis is the region known to Jack London\'s readers as the \n"Valley of the Moon." The sheer Californian loveliness of \nthe district where the prolific vineyards produce some of the \nchoicest wines, and the Grecian beauties of nature prompt to \nall sorts of outdoor seasonal festivals, makes the visitor rejoice \nthat he came, and long to return. \n\nHealdsburg, Cloverdale and the Italian-Swiss Colony at \nAsti. Beyond Fulton, the farthest point north on the "Tri- \nangle Trip" described above, the main line of the North- \nwestern Pacific continues northward through the length of the \nSanta Rosa valley, renowned as one of the finest parts of \nCalifornia. \n\n\n\n284 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nHealdsburg, 66 miles north of San Francisco, is a pros- \nperous place with locust lined streets and pretty homes. An \nauto stage runs from Healdsburg to the Geysers. \n\nAbove Healdsburg, at Geyserville, one can take a stage \nto Skaggs Springs. \n\nAt Asti, half a dozen miles farther, are the great vine- \nyards and wineries of the Italian-Swiss Colony, where a cred- \nitable brand of champagne is being produced after years of \nstudy and the importation of experts from Europe, and where \nthe gigantic glass lined wine vat is renowned as the largest \nthing of the kind in the world. \n\nAlong this stretch of road between Healdsburg and Clover- \ndale ten miles of grape vines are trellised on the right-of-way \nfences. \n\nCloverdale, at the head of the valley and about 80 miles \nnorth of San Francisco, is noted for its citrus fair, which occurs \nevery February. \n\nHere the orange produces blossom and fruit in every door- \nyard, and the annual fair consists of a fine exhibition of \noranges, grape fruit, lemons, olives, olive oil and wines. No \nbetter picture of plenty can be found, no more effective dem- \nonstration of the mildness of the California climate. \n\nA mile out of Cloverdale, in Oat Valley, is a popular \nsummer resort, the "Old Homestead," much favored by peo- \nple from San Francisco and Oakland. \n\nLeaving San Francisco in the morning at 7:45, the trip to \nCloverdale can be made before noon, and a train returning \ncan be taken at a little after 4 p. m., which will land the \ntraveler in San Francisco before 8 o\'clock in the evening; or \nthe journey can be limited to any intermediate point. From \nCloverdale one can make the trip to the Geysers of California, \ngo from the Geysers to Calistoga, and return to San Francisco \nby running down the Napa valley. \n\nThe Cey^sers. Ten miles east of Cloverdale is one of the \nwonder places of the State: the Geysers of California. Stages \nleave Cloverdale every day except Sundays, at 1 :30 p. m.. \n\n\n\nMare Island iVavp Yard 285 \n\nconnecting with the 7:45 Sausalito boat and train from San \nFrancisco. One should arrange to stay at least a day or two \nto see this strange region, which has been famous among Cali- \nfornians for generations. There are boiling springs and a jet \nof steam that rises mountain-high. The place has a good \nhotel, and bath houses where you can get natural steam. Ham- \nmam and mineral baths. There is a swimming lake of mineral \nwaters and good fishing in the Pluton river. \n\nFor those wishing to visit some of the many beautiful resorts \nin the region north of San Francisco, the Northwestern Pacific \nrailroad issues a descriptive booklet called "Vacation," which \ncan be obtained at 874 Market street. \n\n\n\nMARE ISLAND NAVY YARD. \n\nMare Island is 30 miles from San Francisco, and the \njourney there takes about two hours. \n\nThis is a one-day excursion from San Francisco, consisting \nof a sixty-mile round trip on the sheltered waters of the bay. \nNo visitor should omit to take it and thus broaden his knowl- \nedge of the way in which the United States Government car- \nries on the biggest kind of construction work and keeps its \nfighting ships in trim. It is a wonderfully beautiful and inter- \nesting ride. \n\nA good way to make this excursion is to \n\nTake the Monticello Steamship Conipan^\'s steamer *\'Napa \nCi/p," leaving from the foot of Merchant street, just north \nof the Ferry building at 9:45 a. m., for Vallejo, and return \nfrom Vallejo at 3:20 p. m., reaching San Francisco at 5:20 \np. m. \n\nFare for the round trip by this route is $1 to Vallejo and \nreturn, with an extra 20 cents for the Vallejo-Mare Island \nferry. \n\nThese excursions are personally conducted, by a guide who \npoints out the different points of interest on the bay, attends \n\n\n\n286 Handboof( for San Francisco \n\nto getting yard passes at the ferry landing on the island, and \nshows visitors about. \n\nLuncheon can be had on the boat going up, or in Vallejo. \nNo luncheon can be obtained on the Government ground. \n\nVallejo is a pleasant town of about 15,000 people, with \nthree newspapers, two banks, and a yacht club. It can also \nbe reached by the Southern Pacific railroad, leaving from \nthe Ferry building at the foot of Market street, running up \nthe east shore of the bay and crossing by another ferry at \nVallejo Junction. \n\nMare Island Navy Yard occupies a strip of shore on a \nlarge island opposite Vallejo, from which it is separated by \nthe opening into Napa bay. The crossing is made by a ferry \nfrom a landing near that of the Monticello Company. This \nferry runs every hour. \n\nVisitors are allowed in the yard between 7 a. m. and \nsunset. The Navy Yard was founded in 1854, and the gov- \nernment plant represents an investment of about $18,000,000. \n\n\n\nUP THE NAPA VALLEY. \n\nThis trip, through one of the loveliest of California\'s fruit \nand wine districts, can be made in a day from San Francisco, \nbut it is worth giving more time for some of the side excur- \nsions that can be made from points on the line. It leads \nthrough Napa and St. Helena to Calistoga, 73 miles from \nSan Francisco, the main point of departure for the celebrated \nPetrified Forest, Clear Lake and the resorts of Lake county. \n\nTake Monticello Steamship Company\'s boat to Vallejo, as \nper Mare Island trip, and there connect rvith San Francisco, \nNapa and Calistoga Electric Railway. \n\nThe trip to Calistoga and back can be made in a day, \nincluding the Petrified Forest, a place where great trees have \nbeen turned to stone. Private conveyance from Calistoga. \n\nThis trip can also be made by the Southern Pacific rail- \nroad, along the Alameda county shore to Vallejo Junction, \n\n\n\nUp the Napa Valley 287 \n\nthence to Napa Junction and on up the Napa Valley. It takes \nabout 31/2 hours. To go this way, \n\nTaJ^e Oakland jerry) from foot of Market street \n\nThe Napa Valley is a five-mile-wide strip of the most \nfertile soil to be found, poured from the foot of Mt. St. \nHelena down between long ridges of beautiful timbered hills \nabout 35 miles to the northern shore of San Pablo bay, 30 \nmiles north of San Francisco. Here grow in profusion and \nin perfection the grape, the apricot, the prune, every variety of \nplum, the olive and the fig, cherries, pears, peaches, almonds \nand walnuts. Citrus fruits are a garden delight, though it is \nnot hot enough to produce them on a commercial scale. \n\nGood roads mark the prosperity of the region. Picturesque \nstone bridges span the streams. The hill forests are full of \ngame, and the lower slopes are clad with orchards and vine- \nyards. Here and there a fine stone winery, built at the \nentrance to thousands of feet of tunneled wine vaults, suggests \nthe valley of the Rhine. \n\nThe principal towns on the route are Napa, the county \nseat, a thriving little manufacturing city where boots and shoes \nand gloves are made, and where the State has a great hospital \nfor the insane; St. Helena, with its sanitarium and its White \nSulphur Springs close at hand; and Calistoga, at the head \nof the valley. On the way up one passes St. Joseph\'s \nAgricultural College, and the Veterans\' Home at Yountville, \nwhere many pensioners of the Civil War reside. \n\nFrom Napa there is an auto stage to Napa Soda Springs, \na favorite resort for San Franciscans. \n\nFrom St. Helena one reaches Aetna Springs, another fa- \nmous resort. Nearby is the well known St. Gothard Inn. \n\nFrom Vallejo, the Vallejo White Sulphur Springs can also \nbe reached by automobile stage. \n\nThe Napa Valley makes a beautiful automobile trip. From \nCalistoga one can reach the Geysers (see index), continue to \nCloverdale and return down the Santa Rosa Valley to Sau- \nsalito. \n\n\n\n288 HandbooI( for San Francisco \n\nTHE NETHERLANDS ROUTE\xe2\x80\x94 UP THE \nRIVER TO SACRAMENTO. \n\nIf California is an Italy it also contains another Holland, \nand almost another Egypt. In the interior valley, typical delta \ndeposits have been laid down by its great rivers before they \nreach the Bay, and in this lavish soil grows a profusion of \nthe finest garden produce to be found. The broad "islands" \nformed by the network of this huge drainage system are prod- \nigally fertile. In this region are the world\'s greatest asparagus \nbeds. \n\nThe Netherlands Route, Southern Pacific, offers a fine trip \nby a commodious river boat through this region of orchards, \ntruck gardens and melon and asparagus plantations, stretching \n125 miles up the river to Sacramento, the Capital of the State. \nBoats leave the wharf at the foot of Pacific street north of \nthe Ferry building every morning except Sundays, taking a \nday to make the journey one way; and at 1 :30 p. m. daily, \nexcept Sundays, reaching Sacramento at 4 a. m. (Passengers \ncan remain on the boat until morning). The afternoon trip \nmakes a delightful night excursion, especially when there is a \nmoon. The steamers have comfortable staterooms and good \nmeals are served in the dining hall. The fare to Sacramento \nis $1.50; berths and meals extra. \n\nWith the Bay, in various aspects, you are probably familiar, \nfrom other trips about it, but to see these silvery reaches of \nthe river in the evening glow, or by moonlight after the sun \nhas dropped behind the hills of Napa county, is something \nto be remembered all your life. Except for the lack of Arab \nvillages and storied temples, the stream has all the mystic \nloveliness of the Nile, framed in the living verdure of Cali- \nfornia. \n\nAs the steamer enters Carquinez Straits, which connect San \nPablo Bay and Suisun Bay, it comes into view of one of the \nmost interesting engineering works in the country: four cob- \nweb strands of wire cable, suspended across the narrowest part \n\n\n\nup the River to Sacramento \n\n\n\n289 \n\n\n\n\nMOONLIGHT ON THE SACRAMENTO. \n\n\n\nof the channel, between huge steel towers, which look, to \nthe stranger, like oil-well derricks. This is the longest sus- \npension span of wire in the world, a monument to California \nenterprise in the long-distance transmission of hydro-electric \nenergy, and to the skill of Western engineers and constructors. \nIt belongs to the Pacific Gas & Electric Company. \n\nThe tower on the north side, at Dillon\'s Point, in Solano \ncounty, is 224 feet in height. The one across the straits at \nEckley, in Contra Costa county, is shorter, but stands on \nhigher ground. Between them the tenuous steel threads span \na distance of 4427 feet, and at the extreme low point the \nlowest one hangs 206 feet above the water, or high enough to \npermit the passage of the tallest ship in the American mer- \nchant marine. \n\nOver these wires runs the unseen energy that lights the \nlamps in Oakland and Berkeley, and drives the trolley cars \nin the cities along the eastern shore of the Bay. \n\n\n\n290 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nThis line was built in 1 900 by the Bay Counties Power \nCompany, then newly formed by a combination of power \nplants on the Yuba river; and in April of the following year \nthe company began delivering electric current from Colgate, \n36 miles above Marysville, to Oakland, 1 42 miles away, and \nto San Jose, a distance of 1 84 miles ; the longest transmission \nof electricity that had ever been accomplished at that time. \n\nThis whole northern and northwestern shore of Contra Costa \ncounty, from Richmond to Antioch, is undergoing a most \nremarkable industrial development, and here, from Port Costa \neastward along the south shore of Suisun Bay, it is growing \nup with small towns like Bay Point and Pittsburg, which will \none day produce a large volume of the manufactures of the \nWest. \n\nOpposite Port Costa is Benicia, and between these two \npoints the trains of the Southern Pacific Company are ferried \nacross the straits by the largest car ferry in the world, the \n"Solano." \n\nYour boat will stop at Benicia, where the Government has \nan arsenal and ordnance depot. \n\nThe Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers empty into the \neastern end of Suisun Bay. In these waters a considerable \nsalmon, bass and shad fishery is carried on by Italians and \nGreeks, who may be observed sailing gracefully and swiftly \nabout in their lateen-sailed boats, the peculiar rig of the Medi- \nterranean and San Francisco Bay, attending their long nets that \nstretch half across the channel. Jack London has portrayed \nsome of the romance of their occupation in his "Tales of the \nFish Patrol." \n\nStops are made at Rio Vista, Isleton, and Walnut Grove, \nwhere there is a picturesque Chinese settlement with galleried \nbuildings and quaint little second-story alleys stretching back \nfrom the levee. \n\nSacramento occupies the old Sutter grant, the site of the \nfirst considerable white settlement in the interior of the State. \nIt was the objective of many of the trains of "prairie schoon- \n\n\n\nup the River to Sacramento 291 \n\ners" bearing the early Argonauts and their families "across \nthe plains," for here, long before the discovery of gold, \nGeneral John H. Sutter had established a colony of Swiss \nsettlers which he called New Helvetia, and which he made \nsecure against the Indians by means of an old adobe fort, \nbuilt in 1 839. The fort still stands, and, with its museum of \npioneer relics, is one of the worth-while show places of the \ncity. Sutter himself was the employer of Marshall, whom he \nsent into the mountains to build a saw mill at Coloma, in El \nDorado county, and who picked up in the mill race the \nnugget which made so much of the subsequent history of the \nState. \n\nThe first railroad in the State was built from Sacramento \nto Folsom, and here was born the project for a transcontinental \nrail line. \n\nThere is much to be seen here. The State Capitol is an \nimposing structure and from its dome one can get grand views \nof the surrounding valley, the delta lands and islands and \nthe far off snow-capped mountains. The State Library in \nthis building contains 155,780 volumes, and there is a very \nextensive law library. The park about the Capitol embraces \n33 acres and contains 1 1 6 varieties of trees and shrubs from \nall parts of the world, besides the memorial grove of trees \ncollected from the battlefields of the Civil War. \n\nIn the Capitol grounds is the State Insectary, which yearly \ncollects, breeds and distributes millions of fruit-protecting in- \nsects. This work has probably been farther advanced in \nCalifornia than anywhere else in the world, and has attracted \nthe attention of Government scientists from France, Spain, \nJapan, Formosa and South Africa. \n\nThere is an ostrich farm in Sacramento, with from fifty to \na hundred birds. \n\nAnother attraction is the Crocker Art Callery^y gift of Mrs. \nMargaret E. Crocker, and open to the public free of charge, \n\n\n\n292 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nRIVER. RAIL AND RIVER: TO SACRAMENTO \nAND STOCKTON. \n\nA somewhat longer expedition than the Netherlands trip, \none that combines in one panorama the great river system of \nthe State, the Capital of California, and the fertile farming \ncountry lying between Sacramento and Stockton, is what is \n\n\n\n\nTHE STATE CAPITOL, AT SACRAMENTO. \n\ncalled the "Triple S Trip." It affords a delightful travel \nexperience of two or three days and is one of the most inter- \nesting excursions that can be made out of San Francisco. \n\nOne can leave the city on Friday night, or Saturday night, \nand return by Monday morning or Monday night, having \ncovered 250 miles on two great rivers and a fine, modern \nelectric car propelled by the energy of falling streams in the \nSierra Nevada mountains. The fare is $2.50 for the round \ntrip, with extras for berth and meals. \n\n\n\nSacramento and Stockton 293 \n\nThe first leg of the journey is to Sacramento, the State \nCapital, on one of the steamers of the Cahfornia Transporta- \ntion Company, which leaves Jackson street wharf, north of the \nFerry building and just beyond the Chief Wharfinger\'s office, \nat 5 p. m. on week days, arriving at Sacramento at 6 the \nfollowing morning. \n\nInformation about Sacramento itself will be found in the \nprevious chapter. At Eighth and K streets at 10:15, 12:15 \nor 2:15, you take the Central California Traction Company\'s \ncar for a ride of fifty miles or more, southward through the \n\'*land of the flaming Tokay" to Stockton. At Coffing, on \nthis route, you pass the largest vineyard of Tokay grapes in \nthe world, 1 ,200 acres, all under irrigation. The line passes \nthe Cosumnes river, and a short distance beyond is a wine vine- \nyard of 2,100 acres extending southward for three miles. \nThen you get into the real Tokay grape country and see \nmiles and miles of vineyards and orchards stretching away on \nevery side. \n\nStockton is a city of about 35,000 inhabitants, the "capi- \ntal" of the northern San Joaquin valley, and, of old, the main \nsupply depot for the "southern mines" on the mother lode. \nThe Sacramento and the San Joaquin are really one valley, \nand San Francisco Bay receives the waters of both. Stockton \nhas long been the head of a great grain growing section, some of \nwhich is now changing to horticulture, but not before making \nthis thriving little city a great flour-milling center. Here also \nwas invented and developed the Gargantuan harvesting ma- \nchinery that has astonished the world outside of California; \nand the application of the traction engine to the work of plow- \ning and reaping has been carried farther here than anywhere \nelse. \n\nIt is said that more barley is grown within 25 miles of \nStockton than in any similar area in the United States. \n\nSteamers of the California Navigation and Improvement \nCompany leave Stockton daily except Saturdays at 6 p. m., \nfrom the wharf directly opposite the Hotel Stockton. The \n\n\n\n294 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\ntrip down the San Joaquin to the Bay is fully as interesting \nas that up the Sacramento, threading, as it does, what is \naptly called the Holland of America. The great islands, \nreclaimed and protected by the levees, produce incredible \nyields of asparagus, beans, corn, onions and potatoes, which \nform the cargoes of numberless small craft that keep every \nwater lane busy. \n\n\n\nSAN JOSE AND THE SANTA CLARA VALLEY. \n\n(Pronounce it San Hosay.) \n\nBeginning twenty-five or six miles south of San Francisco \nand stretching southeastwardly for possibly fifty more, the \nSanta Clara Valley embraces the most fertile and salubrious \npart of California yet developed. \n\nImagine a climate so bland and genial that standard roses \ngrow into trees, while oranges and lemons flourish along the \nfoothills. Imagine a county that supports more than half a \nmillion tender apricot trees, that produces more than half the \nprunes grown in the United States, that sends yearly to the mar- \nkets of the world, including such distant cities as New York, \nParis, Berlin, London, 1 40,000,000 pounds of dried fruits, \n30,000,000 pounds of canned goods, 200,000,000 of fresh \nfruit; and where, every spring, the whole region looks as \nthough it had been drowned in a tidal wave of dazzling, \nscented apple, apricot, cherry, peach, plum and almond blos- \nsoms; one hundred and twenty-five square miles of bloom, on \nseven million trees, in mid-March when all over the eastern \nstates the plumbers are thawing out the water pipes with gaso- \nline torches. \n\n"Personally," says E. Alexander Powell, "I shall always \nthink of the Santa Clara as a sleeping maiden, fragrant with \nperfume and intoxicatingly beautiful, lying in a carven bed \nformed by the mountains of Santa Cruz, curtained by fleecy \nclouds, her coverlet of eider down, tinted with rose, quilted \n\n\n\nThe Santa Clara Valley 295 \n\nwith green, edged with yellow; her pillow the sun-kissed waters \nof San Francisco Bay. When you come closer, however, \nyou find that the coverlet which conceals her gracious form is \nin reality an expanse of fragrant blossoms; that the green tufts \nare the live oaks which rise at intervals above the orchards of \ncherry, peach and prune; and that the yellow edging is the \nCalifornia poppies which clothe the encircling hills." \n\nBeginning at the northern end, where Senator Stanford on \nhis Palo Alto farm bred his great trotting horses, and where \nthe magnificent buildings of Leland Stanford Junior University \nnow stand, to Gilroy at the southern end, with its famous hot \nsprings and its seed farms in the neighborhood, the county is \nset thick with pretty towns. Electric car lines radiate from \nSan Jose into all this favored region, and entertaining rides \ncan be taken to Santa Clara and its college and mission site, \nto Los Gatos and to Saratoga. \n\nSan Jose itself, 49 miles south of San Francisco, is easily \nreached by several Southern Pacific trains a day from Third \nand Townsend depot. Before 1915 the State highway will \nconnect it with the city by a fine automobile road. There is a \npopulation of about 33,000, with beautiful homes and gar- \ndens, a fine normal school and an unexcelled public school \nsystem. \n\nEvery year in blossom time a festival is held at Saratoga \nthat rivals the feast of cherry blossoms at old Tokio. The \ntown is easily reached from San Jose and well repays a visit. \nThe festival demonstrations extend southward as far as Los \nGatos, and the Sunday afternoon automobile processions along \nthe roads during this period are a remarkable sight. \n\nAll through the summer in this favored land one sees along \nthe hillsides and in the pastures great beds of glowing orange \ncolor which are the wild California poppy, or Eschscholtzia, \none of the most beautiful of all the wild flowers, and the \nofficial flov/er of the State. \n\nSanta Clara is the oldest town in the Santa Clara Valley. \nIt is a place of beautiful homes, an old mission church, the \n\n\n\n296 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nsite of the University of Santa Clara; and near it are some \nof the finest seed farms in the world, producing sweet pea \nseed, lettuce, radish, onion, canary bird seed and many more, \nby the carload. The town is connected with San Jose, which \nis three miles distant, by trolley, and between the two runs \nthe Alameda, the shaded walk of the mission fathers who \nfounded Santa Clara Mission in I 777. \n\n\n\nMT. HAMILTON AND THE LICK OBSERVA- \nTORY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF \nCALIFORNIA. \n\nThe Lick Observatory is situated on the summit of Mt. \nHamilton, Santa Clara county, at an altitude of 4,209 feet. \nIt is thirteen miles due east of San Jose, with which it is con- \nnected by a fine mountain road whose easy grades take 27 \nmiles to make the ascent. Leaving Third and Townsend \ndepot, the trip to San Jose takes from an hour and fifteen to \nan hour and thirty minutes. \n\nThe Mt. Hamilton Auto Stage (R. W. Eaton, proprietor, \n323 South First street, San Jose), leaves that city about 8:45 \nin the morning every day except Sunday, reaching Mt. Ham- \nilton before noon. Returning, the stage leaves the top at I :30 \np. m., and reaches San Jose at 4 p. m. The round trip fare \nis $5. Luncheon can be obtained at Smith\'s Creek hotel, part \nway up. The stage will call for passengers at any of the \nleading San Jose hotels, and bookings can be made by phone \nor through the hotel office. \n\nThe observatory is open to day visitors until sundown, but \nnot thereafter, except Saturday evenings. On Saturday it is \nopen to visitors that arrive before 9 p. m. Arrangements can \nbe made with the Mt. Hamilton Auto Stage for the Saturday \nevening trip, or for day trips. For the Saturday evening trip, \nstages leave San Jose at 4 p. m. and return about midnight. \n\n\n\nThe Lick Observatory 297 \n\nThe mountain grade discloses an inspiring view over the \nSanta Clara valley and the Santa Cruz mountains. \n\nSince the advent of the automobile the number of day vis- \nitors at the observatory greatly exceeds the number of Satur- \nday evening visitors. Those arriving by day have opportunities \nto see several of the principal instruments as well as the num- \nerous intensely interesting photographs of celestial objects dis- \nplayed in the corridors. \n\nSaturday evening visitors are privileged, weather permitting, \nto look through the 12-inch and 36-inch telescopes. \n\nThere are no charges for admission. \n\nThe gauge of the importance of this observatory was laid \ndown as far as it was possible to do so by its founder, James \nLick, the San Francisco philanthropist, in the deed of trust \nby which he provided for it; in which he directs the trustees \nto expend $700,000 for the most powerful telescope yet made, \ntogether with the observatory. \n\nLick was one of the earliest of the pioneers, having come \nto San Francisco in 1847. He made millions out of San \nFrancisco real estate, died in 1876, leaving millions to public \ninstitutions, and is appropriately buried under the pedestal of \nthe great refracting telescope on the mountain\'s top. There \nis a fine bronze relief of him in the vestibule of the Mechanics \nInstitute building, on Post street, between Montgomery and \nKearny. \n\nIt is well known that this telescope, of which the objective \nlense is 36 inches in diameter, was the largest refractor ever \nbuilt when the Clarks of Cambridgeport, Mass., turned out the \nflawless glass. Through it, Bernard discovered the Fifth Satel- \nlite of Jupiter. What is not so well known is that the great \nCrossle}) reflector has been sent from England to Mt. Hamil- \nton, where the large percentage of clear nights has vastly \nincreased its efficiency, and is housed but a short distance from \nthe Lick telescope. The finest pictures of Halley\'s comet were \nmade here, and by means of the Crossley glass the sixth and \nseventh satellites of Jupiter were discovered. \n\n\n\n298 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\nThe director of the observatory is Prof. W. W. Campbell, \nwho has associated with him at Mt. Hamilton, R. H. Tucker, \nR. G. Aitken, the great authority on double stars, W. H. \nWright and H. D. Curtis, and a number of assistants and fel- \nlows of the University. \n\n\n\nDOWN THE OCEAN SHORE RAILROAD. \n\nFrom San Francisco to the end of the line, at Tunitas Glen, \nis 38 miles, and the trip to that point takes two hours and 20 \nminutes \xe2\x80\x94 one way. \n\nFrom the depot at Twelfth and Mission streets, in San \nFrancisco, the Ocean Shore railroad cuts across the city south- \nwesterly and then runs thirty-eight miles down a rock-bound \ncoast, over bold headlands, past sandy beaches, and across \nentrancing little valleys. Another section runs northward from \nthe city of Santa Cruz. At present there is a considerable gap \nbetween them, but the line here will soon be completed, and \nit will then give direct rail transportation to San Gregorio, \nPescadero, and the famous Pebble Beach. \n\nSeveral trains a day are operated on the northern or San \nFrancisco-Tunitas section. \n\nEvery mile of this road exhibits scenery of an imposing \ngrandeur and an entrancing loveliness, diversified at every turn \nthe train makes. One of the pleasant sights is Pedro Valley, \na veritable thicket of artichokes. There is good surf fishing \nall along, and trout in such streams as San Pedro, Purisima, \nLobitos and Tunitas creeks, and San Gregorio creek and \nlagoon. \n\nOn Half Moon Bay is an old Spanish settlement, charming \nwith its atmosphere of the past surviving in these busy times. \n\nThere are bath houses at Salada, Moss Beach, Princeton \nand Granada. The beaches at nearly every station are shel- \ntered and warm, and there is an absence of the undertow that \noften makes bathing in the surf dangerous elsewhere. \n\n\n\nSanta Cruz \n\n\n\n299 \n\n\n\nAt many of the stations there are comfortable Inns, operated \non reasonable tariffs, where one can get good sea-food dinners, \nand accommodations for the night. \n\n\n\n"\xe2\x96\xa0i^ S\'T^^^-H r#^i \n\n\n\n..j%^^\xc2\xa3fl \n\n\n\nl^l^SiSF" \' ^\'JKv-^fS \n\n\n\n^\\jr\'7\'!p^\'\'\'<^\'5^ -Mi^j*"^^ \xe2\x80\x94 ^^"\xe2\x96\xa0\xe2\x96\xa0^a^ii^\'*\'*^^ \xe2\x96\xa0 \xe2\x96\xa0\'\'\xe2\x96\xa0ife^i-\'--^- v-^jw \n\n\n\n\xe2\x80\x94 * k f \n\n\n\nSANTA CRUZ CASINO AND BATHING BEACH. \n\nSANTA CRUZ, AND ITS BIG TREES. \n\nSeventy-six miles from San Francisco. \n\nThree hours and a half by rail from the Southern Pacific \ndepot at Third and Townsend streets will bring you to the \nseaside town of Santa Cruz, on Monterey bay. Here is a \nfine casino, a broad bathing beach, a large swimming tank, \nall sorts of summer resort attractions, good fishing in the \nbay, several good hotels, (one with fine golf links) and a \ngeneral atmosphere of holiday-making, during the season. It \nis said that the Casino and bathing pavilion surpass anything \nof the sort in America. The town is made up of pretty homes, \nand in its suburbs are many fine villas belonging to wealthy \nSan Franciscans. A day can be spent most enjoy ably in an \n\n\n\n300 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nexcursion from San Francisco to Santa Cruz and return. \n\nSix miles out of this seaside city, and seventy miles south \nof San Francisco, is the Fremont grove of coast range red- \nwood trees. Sequoia Sempervirens, that compare not unfavor- \nably for size w^ith the Big Trees in the Sierra, some of them \nbeing twenty feet through the base, and 300 feet high. South- \nern Pacific trains stop at this grove, and there is a pleasant \nclub house where meals are served. \n\nA trip can be arranged so that one can have an hour at \nthe grove, arrive in Santa Cruz a little after 1 2, have an hour \nin Santa Cruz and return to San Francisco in time for dinner; \nor spend five hours in Santa Cruz and return to San Francisco \nin the evening, arriving a little after 9 o\'clock. \n\nFrom Santa Cruz one can also reach the Big Basin, or \nCalifornia Redwood Park, a most beautiful primeval Califor- \nnia forest of 3,800 acres. \n\n\n\nDEL MONTE, MONTEREY, PACIFIC GROVE. \n\nDel Monte is 121 miles from San Francisco by rail, and \nthe trip takes three hours and forty-five minutes, one way. \n\nThese resorts, each famous in a different manner, are \nlocated on Monterey Bay, and are so situated that each is an \nadded attraction of the others. They are connected with one \nanother by trolley, and can all be reached from San Fran- \ncisco by the Southern Pacific railroad from Third and Town- \nsend depot. Any one of them will form a most enjoyable \nobjective for a day\'s outing, with a stop of three or four hours \nat the other end and a return to San Francisco by nightfall. \n\nThe Hotel Del Monte is one of the finest tourist resorts on \nthe coast, offering year-round golf on a full professional course \nof eighteen holes and 6,000 yards, all grass greens; bathmg \nin its great indoor tank, filled with warm salt water; polo \ngrounds, croquet and archery fields, fine bitumen tennis courts \non which coast championship tournaments are held; a bowling \n\n\n\nDel Monte and Monterey^ 301 \n\ngreen, and other outdoor attractions. There is an art gallery \nwhere California painters exhibit characteristic bits of work, \nand there is also a great pipe organ. The hotel has 500 \nrooms and seats 750 in its dining hall. \n\nThe benign climate of this region has made possible the \nmost beautiful effects in the 125 acres of the Del Monte \nlawns and gardens, which contain over 1 ,360 varieties of \nplant life, including examples of all the principal trees of the \nPacific Coast, with a large collection of Arizona cactus, aloe \nand yucca. The statement has often been made and never, \nto our knowledge, contradicted, that these are the most beau- \ntiful gardens in the world. \n\nThe Del Monte Express leaves the Third and Townsend \ndepot at 2 p. m., and arrives at the hotel in time for dinner. \n\nMonterey, "wrapped in the mantle of old traditions," was \nthe first capital of California and is now a town of about \n5,000 people. It is a mile beyond Del Monte, and easily \nreached by trolley from there. There are many relics of the \nSpanish regime, and of the period of transition to American \ndomination; such as the old Spanish custom house over which, \nin 1 846, Commodore Sloat raised the first American flag in \nCalifornia; Colton Hall, in which was drafted the first consti- \ntution of the present State; an adobe building which was the \nfirst theater in California, and in which Jenny Lind once \nsang; the old Washington hotel; and near it the house of old \nJules Simoneau, in which Robert Louis Stevenson lived. All \nabout, except in certain quarters that have felt the push of \nmodern improvement, is the air of age and settled things with \ntheir foundations in California\'s romantic past. Old roses \ngrown almost to trees, clamber over the lichened fences and \ngarden walls \xe2\x80\x94 one of them said to have been planted by \nGeneral William T. Sherman, while paying gallant attentions \nto a certain senorita who tended it always from that day; or \nso, at least, the story goes. Here is also the mission church \nSan Carlos de Borromeo. \n\n\n\n302 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nThere is a Presidio, or military post, at Monterey, where \ninfantry is stationed, so that the streets are apt to be gay with \nuniforms. Within the reservation is a monument erected by \nMrs. Leland Stanford to the memory of Padre Junipero Serra, \nthe pioneer of missions and missionaries, who landed here in \n1 770, and who is buried at the Mission San Carlos Borromeo, \nor Carmelo, not far away. Monterey was at one time the \nsite of an active whale fishery. A California grayback whale \ncan occasionally be seen "blowing" off shore, and great whale \nbones ornament some of the gardens about the town. Nearby \nare two large sardme canneries. \n\nThree miles beyond Monterey by rail, (although the two \ntowns are rapidly building together) and well out on the \npeninsula forming the southern boundary of the bay, is \n\nPacific Grove, scene of the annual meeting of the Pacific \nCoast Chautauqua, the Women\'s Christian Temperance Union, \nthe California Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church, \nand the Students\' Conference of the Young Men\'s Christian \nAssociation. \n\nThis is a sort of cottage city by the sea, a place of 3,000 \npermanent inhabitants that began as a camp meeting ground. \nSo attractive is it that its summer population is estimated at \n15,000. The summer school of Leland Stanford Junior Uni- \nversity is held here, and because of the wealth of sea life, here \nis located that university\'s marine laboratory, while the Uni- \nversity of California is preparing to establish one on an eight- \nacre site recently acquired. \n\nAt Pacific Grove there is a very interesting marine museum. \nMonterey Bay is like one great aquarium, so prolific are its \nwaters, its beaches and its rocky coves. Here one can ride in \nthe glass-bottomed boat and from within a darkened chamber \ngaze into wonderful submarine grottoes where the anemone \nand star-fish grow, where sea urchins empurple the rocks and \nstrange plants with a fruitage like myriads of gold nuggets \nmove to and fro in the weaving currents. \n\n\n\nSan Juan Bautisia . 303 \n\n\n\nThere are two good hotels at Pacific Grove, and board can \nbe obtained at a number of private houses. There are plenty \nof boats, and there is good fishing. Over 150 species of food \nfish are found in the bay, including the fighting king salmon. \n\nSea and shore exhibit strange moods that attract the artist \nand have furnished subjects for some of the best of our Califor- \nnia canvases \xe2\x80\x94 vistas opening toward the blue bay, sugar-white \nsand dunes, and jagged bluffs topped by the characteristic \nMonterey cypresses which throw their wind-tossed arms aloft \nlike distracted ghosts. \n\nThe Seventeen- Mile Drive is a famous excursion, by tally-ho \nor automobile, which shows the unusual beauties of the \npeninsula to advantage, and is especially weird and fascinating \nat night. \n\nThe Mission San Carlos de Rio Carmelo is near the town of \nCarmel-by-the-Sea, which has become a colony of artists and \nliterary lights. At the mission one can see many interesting \nrelics, including the robes of Junipero Serra, father of all the \nmissions of California, who is buried there. \n\nPebble Beach, with a good grill serving sea food. Moss \nBeach, where one gets delicious orange-colored mussels, and \nother places along shore, afford good opportunities for the \nstudy of conchology. The abalone, a large univalve with a \nhighly-colored iridescent shell, abounds in these waters. It is \nfine eating, and the shells make beautiful souvenirs. \n\n\n\nSAN JUAN BAUTISTA, MOST INTERESTING \nOF THE MISSIONS. \n\nLess than a morning\'s journey from San Francisco, in the \nSan Juan Valley of San Benito county (pronounced San \nWhan, and San Baneto), is the mission that best recalls the \nscenes of Spanish and Indian life in California. \n\nThe old Padres and the Indians are gone, but the setting \nremains,, unspoiled by "improvements" which have mercifully \n\n\n\n304 Handbook for San Francisco \n\ntaken place a block away and out of sight. The old mission \nbuildings overlook the same plaza as of yore. An ancient \nSpanish mansion fronts them, in which Fremont, the "Path- \nfinder," once lived; and along one side of the plaza still stand \na couple of galleried adobe houses, one of which has become \na most comfortable inn. \n\nMission and plaza and hospitable old tavern stand upon a \nlow bench of the hills, overlooking a level valley of such fer- \ntility that a large seed concern now uses it to grow seeds, so \nthat in June it is a wilderness of color and perfume. The \nsweet pea display here in May and June is something won- \nderful. \n\nThe mission church is most interesting, and in the rooms \nthat open off the cloistered portico are relics of early Cali- \nfornia; an ancient spinet; old music scores with huge black \nnotes to be read from one copy by the whole choir; cunning \nconvex mirrors from Paris that hung before the altar and \nrevealed to the priest any communicant that misbehaved in \nchurch ; a curious old viol ; and an antique hand-organ, \nactuated by a crank and bellows and making music through \ntrue organ pipes, to call the Indian laborers from the valley \nwhen the day was done. \n\nThe mission was founded in 1 797, and is said to have \nministered to the spiritual needs of some 4,000 Indians in its \ntime. Helen Hunt Jackson, author of "Ramona," says of \nit in her book on "The Missions of California:" \n\nAt San Juan Bautista there lingers more of the atmosphere of the \nolden time than is to be found in any other place in California. \n\nThe mission church is well preserved; its grounds are enclosed and \ncared for; in its gardens are still blooming roses and vines. In the shelter \nof palms, and with the old stone sun dial to tell lime. \n\nIn the sacristy are oak chests, full of gorgeous vestments of brocades, \nwith silver and gold laces. The church fronts south, on a little, green, \nlocust-walled plaza \xe2\x80\x94 the sleepiest, sunniest, dreamiest place in the world. \n\nIn the plaza, bull fights occurred in the Spanish days; and \nthe cowboys of the neighboring great cattle ranges still gather \nthere of a Saturday night as generations of cowboys have been \n\n\n\nOther Missions of California \n\n\n\n305 \n\n\n\ndoing for scores of years past. Just below the plaza are some \ntall pear trees, planted by the padres more than a hundred \nyears ago. \n\nHere, in short, are the most distinct and unspoiled vestiges \nyou will find of the dolce far niente times of Spanish Cali- \nfornia; the sunlit, pastoral peace of the "days before the \nGringo came." \n\nSan Juan is about eight miles west of Hollister, and possibly \nsixteen miles inland from the Bay of Monterey. It can be \nreached by taking the Southern Pacific train from Third and \nToTvnsend depot to Sargent station and staging between six \nand seven miles from there; or by train to Salinas and auto- \nmobile from that point. \n\nThe other missions of California, the dates of their estab- \nlishment, and the nearest railroad stations, are: \n\nMission Founded Station \n\nSan Francisco Solano July 4, 1823. . .Sonoma \n\nSan Rafael Archangel Dec. 14, 181 7... San Rafael \n\nS. F. D\'Assisi (Dolores) Oct. 9, 1776... San Francisco \n\nSanta Clara Jan. 12, Mil . . .Santa Clara \n\nSan Jose June 11, 1 797 . . . Irvington ( 1 mi.) \n\nSanta Cruz Sept. 25, 1 791 . . . Santa Cruz \n\nSan Juan Bautista June 24, 1797. . .Sargent (6 mi.) \n\nSan Carlos de Borromeo June 3, 1770. . .Monterey \n\nSan Carlos de Rio Carmelo July 10, 1771 . . .Monterey (5 mi.) \n\nNuestra Senora de la Soledad . . .Oct. 9, 1791 . . .Soledad (4 mi.) \n\nSan Antonio de Padua July 14, 1771 . . .King City (26 mi.) \n\nSan Miguel July 25, 1 797. . . San Miguel \n\nSan Luis Obispo de Tolosa Sept. 1, 1772. . .San Luis Obispo \n\nSanta Ynez Sept. 17, 1804. . .Los Olivos (12 mi.) \n\nLa Purisima Conception Dec. 8, 1787. . .Lompoc (3 mi.) \n\nSanta Barbara Dec. 4, 1 786. . . Santa Barbara \n\nSan Buenaventura Mar. 31, 1 782 . . . Ventura \n\nSan Fernando Rey de Espana. . . . Sept. 8, 1 797. .. Fernando (2 mi.) \n\nSan Gabriel Archangel Sept. 8, 1 771 .. .Los Angeles (10 mi.) \n\nSan Juan Capistrano Nov. 1, 1 776. . .Capistrano \n\nSan Antonio de Pala June 14, 1771 . . . Fallbrook (12 mi.) \n\nSan Luis Rey de Frania June 13, 1798. . .Oceanside \n\nSan Diego de Alcala July 16, 1769... San Diego (5 mi.) \n\nSanta Ysabel ,.,,,,,,,.,,,,,,,, 1822 Foster (28 mi.) \n\n\n\n306 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nYOSEMITE VALLEY. \n\nPronounce it Yo SEMity. \n\nLocated 1 50 miles due east of San Francisco, in an air \nline. By the Southern Pacific it is 151 miles and by the \nSanta Fe 143 miles to Merced, whence the Yosemite Valley \nrailroad takes you to El Portal, near the entrance, a distance \nby rail of 79 miles. \n\nSan Francisco is the main point of departure. You can \nleave the city from the Ferry building in the morning, arrive \nat Merced early in the afternoon, and reach the hotel at El \nPortal in time for dinner. Next morning a stage ride of twelve \nmiles takes you to the hotel or the boarding camps in the \nValley. Or during the summer season, beginning April 30th \nor May I st, one can take a Pullman in the evening and arrive \nat El Portal for breakfast, without change of cars. \n\nThe round trip transportation fare, including stage ride from \nEl Portal, is $22.35 from San Francisco. Excess baggage \non the stage from El Portal is $1.00 a hundred pounds. \nFifty pounds are carried free. There is a small charge for \nseats in the observation car from Merced. On this line one \nsees many remains of old gold "diggmgs" \xe2\x80\x94 chimneys of \nminers\' cabins burned long ago, and one old stone structure \nthat was used as a bank. \n\nRates at the Sentinel Hotel are $3 to $4 a day, or $20 \nto $25 a week; at Camp Lost Arrow, at the foot of Yosemite \nFalls, $2 a day; at Camp Curry, at the foot of Glacier \nPoint, and on the way to the Happy Isles, Vernal Falls and \nNevada Falls, $2 a day; at Camp Ahwahnee, the first camp \nyou come to in the Valley, $3 a day. \n\nAt Glacier Point, 3,234 feet above the floor of the Valley, \nare a good hotel and camp, where the rates are respectively \n$4 and $2 a day. All the camps, as well as the hotel, are \ncomfortable, with floored tents and ample bathing facilities, \n\n\n\nYosemite Valley^ 307 \n\n\n\nThe Sentinel hotel, on the floor of the Valley, is open all \nyear. The camps and the Glacier Point hotel are open only \nin summer. \n\nIn regard to equipment, your requirements in Yosemite \nwill be comparatively simple, unless you wish to make a dress \naffair of it; so you can afford to leave most of your luggage \nat your hotel in the city. Take tramping clothes and hob- \nnailed boots, for it is a place of goodly distances, and although \nplenty of trail animals are to be had you will frequently wish \nto walk. Supply yourself at Butler\'s, Payot, Upham & \nCompany\'s, or the Lietz Company\'s, with one of the topo- \ngraphical maps isued by the United States Geological Survey; \nthey show the roads and trails, the elevations, the courses of \nthe streams and the locations of the falls. Get a pocket com- \npass; it win help you find yourself on the map. A haversack \nfor your lunch is a great convenience, and a collapsible cup is \nalmost indispensable. And, finally, for good reading on the \nYosemite, get John Muir\'s book of that title. \n\nThe Valley is open the year around and is matchless at \nany season. \n\nIn Spring there is most water going over the falls. In \nSummer the foliage and flowers are more brilliant and abun- \ndant, and this is the season for campers. In Autumn the \nIndian Summer haze tints the far-away cliffs with wondrous \ncolor and makes this the favorite time with real Yosemite \nlovers; the sort that make yearly and sometimes semi-yearly \npilgrimages to the Valley. \n\nWinter adds grand effects to the streams and crags and \nmighty domes of this enchanted region. You may witness the \nfall and crash of blocks of ice as big as a box car, dropping \n1 ,600 feet over the Yosemite Fall. At this season many \nCalifornians enjoy here touches of the cold they do not get \nelsewhere than in their mountain heights; with bits of Winter \nsport, such as ski running, sleighing and skating on Mirror \nLake. \n\n\n\n308 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nFrom the Himalayas to the Alps, there is not another place \nlike Yosemite in the world. It is the only place where one \ncan travel on a practically level road eight miles into the \ngranite core of a mountain range ; a range that rises on either \nhand as you proceed from an elevation of about 3,900 feet \nwhere you enter the Valley, to the 7,042 of El Capitan, the \n7,214 of Glacier Point, the 7,072 of Liberty Cap and the \n8,852 of the Half Dome whose riven face rises almost a \nmile high from the Valley floor. All about are stupendous \ncliffs, with swimming, tangled perspectives that daze the senses. \n\nThousands of feet above, rivers wandering in pleasant \nmountain valleys come to the tops of these awful walls, and \ndrop. Their waters are sifted by the air into floating spray \nand weaving vapors, in which rainbows appear; they slide \nlike molten silver down long inclines of granite; they break \ninto cascades of liquid diamonds that splinter the mountain \nsunlight into flashing jets of ruby and orange and emerald. \n\nThere is a point at which the mind wearies of its awe, and \ncomplacently gives itself over to a bewildered sort of en- \nchantment. You reach it by the second day. You begin to \nsee that the archetypes of all the natural beauty in the world \nhave been crammed and compacted into this wondrous chasm, \neight miles long and half a mile wide, with its lateral gorges \xe2\x80\x94 \nevergreen firs that "tremble on the mountain wall," dogwood \nblossoms, mountain lilies, azaleas, the Mariposa tulip if you \nare lucky, wild strawberries, gleaming trout in the river, a lake \nlike plate glass silvered; the Happy Isles where the divided \nriver warbles its endless music over tree root and boulder; the \nfairy loveliness of the Illilouette. You climb to Glacier Point, \nand at 5 o\'clock next morning turn out of your warm bed in \nthe Glacier Point hotel and become one of the blanket Indians \non the east porch to see the sun rise behind the Half Dome \nand pierce the heavens with long darts of flame like the corona \nof an eclipse \xe2\x80\x94 an utterly thrilling, unforgettable vision. \n\nYou have come for three days. You see that it was a mistake, \nthat you should have made it a month. But you will return. \n\n\n\nBig Trees of California \n\n\n\n309 \n\n\n\nTHE BIG TREES OF CALIFORNIA. \n\nThese are earth\'s largest Hving things, and oldest. \n\nYou will find them nowhere but in the Sierra Nevadas. \nTheir only known relatives are the Sequoia Sempervirens, the \nCalifornia redwoods of the Coast Range mountains. Unless \ntransplanted the Sequoia Gigantea, or Washingtonia, as the \nForestry Service now calls it, does not grow on the coast. \n\n\n\n\nTTTE KALLKN MONAIU\'II. \n\n\n\nAlong the Sierra slopes the Big Trees grow in groves, of \nwhich the best known are the Calaveras, South Park, Tuol- \numne, Mariposa and Fresno. These may contain anywhere \nfrom 30 trees in the Tuolumne grove, to 1,300 in the Cala- \nveras. Forests of them are found in the canyons of the Kings \nand Kaweah rivers. In the Giant Forest there are said to be \nover 6,000 trees with diameters of not less than 1 5 feet. \nBut 1 5 feet is not a large diameter for a Big Tree ; some are \n\n\n\n310 Handbook for San Francisco \n\na hundred feet around. In some cases the stage road has \nbeen cut through a standing trunk and you can drive through \nin a double-decker "thoroughbrace." On one of them, fallen, \na squadron of cavalry has lined up. They reach a height of \n340 feet, and even then it invariably happens that the tip has \nbeen broken ofF nobody knows how far down, by nobody \nknows how many strokes of the jealous lightning. \n\nSo perfect are their proportions, so slender and graceful the \ntaper of their boles, so harmonious their salmon tinted bark, \nand their sparse and lace-like foliage, that the traveler is likely \nto be struck at first by their beauty instead of their size. As \nhe gazes upward, however, he notices that some minor limb, \nbranching from the main trunk, is of a thickness that would, \nif it grew alone, make it a large tree. The Grizzly Giant, in \nthe Mariposa grove, has such a limb eighty feet from the \nground that is seven feet through. Gradually it dawns upon \nthe beholder that these organisms are stupendous, overwhelm- \ning, awe-inspiring, one of the greatest of the world\'s wonders. \n\nThe Mariposa grove is probably the best known, and is \neasily reached from Yosemite by way of Wawona, where \nthere is a comfortable hotel. Stages run from Glacier Point, \nwhich one reaches from the floor of the Valley either afoot \nor horseback, passing by Vernal and Nevada Falls; and also \nfrom the floor of the Valley over the old Wawona road by \nInspiration Point. If one desires to go direct, Wawona can \nalso be reached from San Francisco by way of Madera, on \nthe Southern Pacific railroad, and automobile stage from \nthere. \n\nThe prove is about six miles from the hotel at Wawona, \nwhich will furnish conveyances for the trip. No automobiles \nare permitted at present. \n\nThe Calaveras Big Trees, in the county of that name, are \nanother fine grove, containing more trees than the Mariposa. \nThe route is by the Southern Pacific to Angels Camp, one of \nthe historic places of California in the Bret Harte and Mark \nTwain mining country. A stage runs from Angels. \n\n\n\nLake Tahoe 3 1 1 \n\nAnother magnificent grove is the General Grant, near San- \nger. \n\nFew authors have written as entertainingly of this region \nand these giant trees as the California mountaineer, John \nMuir. His books, "The Mountains of California," "Our \nNational Parks" and \'My First Summer in the Sierra," treat \nthe whole subject sympathetically, understandingly and de- \nlightfully. \n\n\n\nLAKE TAHOE, GLEN ALPINE SPRINGS AND \nDESOLATION VALLEY. \n\nOnly second in interest to Yosemite Valley is the region of \nLake Tahoe and Glen Alpine Springs, lying on the eastern \nslope of the Sierra, 150 miles, in an air line, northeast of \nSan Francisco, and about 1 00 miles north of Yosemite. \n\nThis region can be reached by taking the Southern Pacific \nto Truckee, 209 miles, and 1 1 hours, away; and thence the \nLake Tahoe Railway and Transportation Company\'s train \npast Deer Park, a popular mountain resort, to Tahoe City and \nTahoe Tavern, leaving San Francisco at night and reaching \nthe tavern about the middle of the following morning. The \nTavern accommodates 500 guests and the rates are $4 a \nday and up, American plan. It is a good place, with every \nmodern convenience, and is located on the western side and \ntoward the northern end of the lake. \n\nTallac is at the southern end of the lake. Here, also, is \na fine hotel, where the accommodations are at the rate of $3 \na day and upward. It is reached by steamer from Tahoe City \nor the Tavern, and the steamer trip is a beautiful one. An \nequally interesting way, perhaps even more beautiful, is to \ntake the Southern Pacific train from Sacramento to Placer- \nville, in El Dorado county, and the automobile stage from \nthat point up the canyon of the south fork of the American \nriver to Tallac, passing through wild mountain scenery, and \n\n\n\n3 I 2 Handbook for San Francisco \n\npark-like woods of pine and fir and mountain hemlock. \n\nIn addition to the Tavern and Tallac, there are many \nexcellent resorts at different points on the lake, where accom- \nmodations can be had at varying prices \xe2\x80\x94 such as Emerald Bay \nCamp, Al Tahoe, the Brockway Hotel, Tahoe Vista, The \nGrove, Glenbrook, McKinney\'s (whence a seven mile ride will \ntake you to Rubicon Springs), Moana Villa, and others. The \nsteamer stops at all of them in its rounds. \n\nTahoe is a wonderful sheet of crystal-clear water, 23 miles \nlong, 1 3 wide, over half a mile deep, poised in a mountain \nbasin at an altitude of more than a mile above the sea. It has \nbeen compared to Como and Maggiore, but its proportions are \nmore ample and satisfying and it is framed in grander moun- \ntains. Its waters are full of fish, and every resort keeps boats \nfor its guests. Trout are sometimes taken weighing twelve \npounds. The depths are trolled with copper wire for the big \nones, and the sport is finer than Eastern fishing for bass, pike \nor muskalunge. Tahoe is the lake of lakes, the most delight- \nlul inland sheet of water where large numbers of people can \nfind accommodations suited to purse and taste. There are no \npests of flies or mosquitoes. In this serene mountain air, free \nfrom dust and pollen, hay fever is unknown and the victims \nof it that come here from the Eastern States experience instant \nrelief. \n\nAt present, travel about the lake is almost entirely by \nsteamer, as the distances are generous and the roads are few, \nbut a road is being built by the State from Tahoe City and \nthe Tavern, around by Emerald Bay to Tallac, which will \nenable automobiles to make this much of the circuit, and open \nland communication between these two main points. \n\nClen Alpine Springs and Desolation Valley. A stage leaves \nTallac daily after lunch for Glen Alpine, passing for about \nthree miles along the east shore of Fallen Leaf Lake, where \nthere is a good lodge or inn. Accommodations here are at \nthe rate of $14 a week and upward. Rates in camp at Glen \nAlpine are $ I 4 to $ I 6 a week. \n\n\n\nClen Alpine Springs 313 \n\nAlthough but seven miles by the road from Tahoe, the \nscenery and surroundings at Glen Alpine Springs are of an \naltogether different order, and the traveler that has spent any \ntime at the lake feels that he has been transported into another \nw^orld. The Springs themselves are in a narrow glen, but \ngood trails lead to the heights above, and to more than a \nscore of gem-like mountain lakes, in which big trout abound, \nand on nine of which the camp proprietors keep boats for the \naccommodation of their guests. \n\nYou should have a topographical map of this region, as for \nYosemite, hob-nailed boots, a haversack, a compass and a \ncollapsible cup. Lunches are provided by the camp on a \nnight\'s notice. \n\nOne of the best hikes of this neighborhood is to the top of \nMt. Tallac, 9,785 feet above the sea. Trail animals (horses \nor mules) can be obtained by those that do not care for tramp- \ning. The scenery on the way is of a nature that is nothing \nless than startling. \n\nAt the summit, one of the wonder visions of the continent \nlies before you. You see a vast stretch of the tops of the \nSierra, the grandest chain of mountains in the United States, \nfrom a scenic standpoint. The gem of the picture is Tahoe \nitself, spread at your feet, where it looks as though you could \nthrow a stone into it, but so far below that the steamer has \nthe dimensions of a canoe, and seems only to creep from one \nlanding to another. The colors, also, are wonderful. The \nwater is of the light and crystalline blue that eastern Moguls \nlooked for in the "female" sapphire. The plains about Tallac \nare brown and umber, shading into topaz tints and finally \ngoing into unmistakable yellows. The timber is a combination \nof greens and saffron; and all is softened and exquisitely \nblended by the downward distance. \n\nThere are many good hikes in the neighborhood, but the \nbest one is by way of Heather Lake to \n\nDesolation Valley. Unless accustomed to the mountains \nand to keeping track of your location you would better have \n\n\n\n3 1 4 Handbook for San Francisco \n\na guide. With or without a guide, this is one of the grandest \nday\'s marches you will ever make. Here, amid the granite \ncrestings of the Sierra, surrounded by peaks that rise to 1 0,- \n000 feet, is a vast stone floor covered with a labyrinthine \nspread of lakes, between which are growing dwarfed, snow- \nbent and despairing trees; a "suicidal throng" such as Childe \nRoland saw on his way to the Dark Tower. Rafts of snow \nare floating in the lakes. Hummocks of bare granite rise here \nand there with streams brawling between. \n\nAbove, the knife-edge ridges hold snow fields and bits of \nold glaciers, remnants of the ice age. Pyramid Peak rises to \na height of I 0,020 feet from the farther side, built of gigantic, \noverlapping grey slabs, as though some primordial Chufru had \ntaken the cosmos for his tomb. \n\nNo life appears. Not a bird flies over. There is no sound \nexcept the dismal creaking of thousands of frogs. \n\nThe scene at first appals; but as you gaze in bewilderment, \nfascination seizes you, and then the beauty and charm of a \ngreat natural garden \xe2\x80\x94 the Garden of Granite. The contorted \npines and junipers have a Japanese efl^ect. The waters of all \nthese lakes and connecting streams sparkle and glitter in the \nmountain light. Clumps of taller timber take an added dig- \nnity from their isolation. Dwell upon it, and it becomes a \nscene of wondrous beauty, unearthly and weird, transporting \nin its charm, and making the strange appeal that later trans- \nlates itself into homesickness for the sight of it again. Few \npeople that have once fallen under the spell of Desolation \nValley can be content until they have wandered through its \nstony mazes for a second time. \n\nThe ascent of Pyramid Peak becomes an ambition here, \nand can be made, with the return to camp, in a day if you \nare a pretty good climber. The panorama from the top is \nreward enough, and so are those from the summits of Dick\'s, \nJack\'s, Ralston and Angora. \n\n\n\nAutomobiling 315 \n\n\n\nAUTOMOBILING. \n\nSan Francisco is the hub of a region affording opportunity \nfor most fascinating and delightful automobile trips. The \nvicinity contains all the variety of mountains, plains, valleys \nand great river courses. The basin of the Bay itself, with \nthe connecting bays and straits, presents scenes of ever chang- \ning interest. Every hill discloses a new and wonderful cyclo- \nrama. Old Ocean lies to westward, and forms the distant \nblue perspective of every approach to the coast. \n\nNowhere can one find such limitless variety, such a succes- \nsion of abrupt changes of grand and beautiful scenery. North, \neast and south the roads stretch away, to Marin county, to \nSonoma county, to Mendocino county, to Lake and Napa \ncounties, up to Shasta, to the Klamath region and beyond to \nOregon; to Lake Tahoe, to the Yosemite, to the Sacramento \nand San Joaquin valleys, to Santa Cruz, Del Monte, Monterey, \nPacific Grove, the Salinas valley and Paso Robles and down \nthe coast to Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, San Diego and \nMexico. \n\nWorld travelers declare there are no scenes along the Ri- \nviera, nor yet on the famous Amalfi drive from Naples, to \ncompare with the scenery of the Alpine Drive from Pescadero \nto La Honda, accessible from this city in less than two hours; \nor some of the country to the northward of San Francisco, \nincluding trips over to the coast from points in the interior of \nMarin county; while such views as one gets from the hill road \nfrom Martinez to Port Costa, overlooking Carquinez Straits, \nand from the top of Mt. Diablo, are no less than sublime. \n\nCalifornia is becoming famous for good roads. The State \nhas bonded itself to the extent of $18,000,000 for the con- \nstruction of a north-and-south highway system, and the different \ncounties are voting sums that will probably reach a like \namount for lateral connections. For California touring one \nshould have Ross\' "Land and Auto Map of California\'s \nTwenty-five Central Counties," or Candrian\'s "Auto Roads \n\n\n\n316 \n\n\n\nHandbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nHandybook of California and Nevada," which will give a \ngeneral view of the field, and for specific distances the "Tour \nBook" of the California State Automobile Association. We \ncan do no more here than indicate a few of the most delightful \nrides in and around San Francisco, as an introduction to the \ncountry, which the automobilist is practically certain to follow \nwith enthusiasm to a closer acquaintance. \n\n\n\n\nLICK MONUMENT TO THE PIONEERS. \n\n\n\nI. A DAY S AUTOMOBILE TRIP IN SAN FRANCISCO. \n\nThe visitor that intends seeing the region of San Francisco \nby automobile should give his first day or half day if he has \nno longer time, to the city itself, for he will not find one more \nentrancing. A comprehensive idea of it can be gained in half \na day without fatigue, but one could easily extend the route to \noccupy the better part of a day. \n\n\n\nAuiomobiling 31 7 \n\n\n\nVisit first the Embarcadero, and see the piers and the \nshipping. \n\nTurn up Market street to California, follow California \nthrough the financial district and up the lower slope of Nob \nHill as far as Grant avenue, which at this point enters China- \ntown. Grant avenue is its main street and you can turn north \nfor a few blocks and get a fleeting glimpse of this most inter- \nesting place. \n\nSouth on Grant avenue to Post street, turn west on Post \nto Stockton, then south on Stockton to Market street. This \nwill take you through the principal shopping section of the city, \npast Union Square, surrounded by hotels and large stores. \nThen run out Market street to Van Ness avenue. The stores \nand automobile agencies along "Gasoline Row" are new and \nhandsome structures and the other improvements of the avenue \nare rapidly making it one of the most attractive parts of down- \ntown San Francisco. For much of its length Van Ness was \nthe western limit of the conflagration of 1 906. \n\nContinue on Van Ness to Fort Mason, with its fine views \nover Black Point Cove and the Bay. Enter the Panama- \nPacific Exposition grounds, and then return through Fort \nMason to Van Ness avenue. Go south to Jackson street and \ntake Jackson west to Arguello boulevard, called also First \navenue. This takes you through a section of the city with fine \nwater views, where many wealthy San Franciscans have built \ntheir town houses. \n\nEnter the Presidio by the First avenue entrance and make \na square turn to the right. Then follow McDowell avenue to \nthe left, swinging around the hills, whence there is a magnifi- \ncent view across the garrison buildings, and the islands of the \nBay. \n\nAt the foot of the grade, turn to the left and run out to \nold Fort Win field Scott, (within the Presidio reservation but \norganized as a separate artillery post). \n\nDoubling back from Fort Scott, keep along the foot of the \nslope, run past the National Cemetery, and through the Pre- \n\n\n\n3 1 8 Handbook fof San Francisco \n\nsidio parade with its flag staff, to the terminus of the Union \nstreet car hne. The view is a grand panorama, unroUing as \nyou go ; one of the great marine prospects of the western \ncoast. \n\nFrom this point take the road to the right, running south- \neasterly. Keep to the right and run westerly along the fence \nback to the First avenue gate. Thence take First avenue \nsouthward. \n\nA block south of the Presidio is the entrance to Presidio \nTerrace, a restricted residence district of fine homes set amid \npalms, in park-like grounds. The Presidio Golf Club has its \nclub house here, and plays on the Presidio links. Emerging, \nfollow Arguello boulevard south to Fulton street, passing the \nOdd Fellows\' Cemetery, where you can see the dome of its \nbeautiful columbarium. At Fulton street run eastward, to the \nleft, around the corner of Golden Gate Park to the Stanyan \nstreet entrance. \n\nThis is the finest artificial park in the United States, and \nyou could spend the day enjoying its statuary, its Music Tem- \nple, its Japanese Tea Garden, its manifold beauties of hill and \ndale, with its roads winding among lovely lakes where the \nwild ducks nest, its herds of elk and buffalo, and its huge \nDutch windmills. \n\nAt the west end of the Park is the sloop "Gjoa," in which \nAmundsen, discoverer of the South Pole, sailed through the \nNorthwest Passage. \n\nTo the right as you emerge from the west end of the Park \nis San Francisco\'s far-famed Cliff House. Beyond, up the \nhill, are the great Sutro Baths, and the Sutro Gardens, which \nthe public is privileged to enter and enjoy \xe2\x80\x94 afoot. \n\nRun down the Great Highway southward, within sight of \nthe booming surf of the Pacific for about three miles to Sloat \nBoulevard, and then turn east, passing, on your right the Lake \nMerced lands of the Spring Valley Water Company. \n\nA short distance beyond, you come to the neighborhood of \nthree of San Francisco\'s newly developed residence districts: \n\n\n\nAutomobiling \n\n\n\n319 \n\n\n\n\n\n\njjr\xc2\xbb\xc2\xa3^5X\'j\'^5*\'\'\'j-*j\xc2\xbb\' \'\xe2\x80\xa2\'\',11 i " " \n\n\n\n\nTHREE MILES OF BEACH; FROM THE CLIFF HOUSE. \n\nIngleside Terraces, Forest Hill and 5/. Francis Wood, beau- \ntified with contoured streets, parked walks, ornamental vases \nand columns, and parks with pretty fountains, in the highest \nart of the modern landscape engineer. \n\nTake Corbett avenue, windmg up the heights to the east \nface of Tmn Peal^s, over 900 feet high. The view from this \npoint is marvelous. The whole amphitheater of the Bay ap- \npears, with the city sloping downward before you. Market \nstreet running direct to the water front, islands, shipping, the \nencircling hills, and Tamalpais rising like Vesuvius to com- \nplete a scene far surpassing in beauty the famed bay of Naples. \n\nIf the traveler has a few days he should by all means make \nthe trip to the top of Twin Peaks in the evening and look \nupon the myriad lights of the city spreading down the slopes \nbefore him. \n\nFrom the top of Twin Peaks, descend to Corbett avenue, \nlake Ashbury street northward, following the car line, to Fred- \nerick street; turn west on Frederick street to Clayton, south on \nClayton to Carl, west on Carl to Stanyan, south on Stanyan \n\n\n\n320 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nto Parnassus avenue, and out Parnassus avenue westward to \nthe Affiliated Colleges, whence there is another grand view \nacross Golden Gate Park, the Presidio, and the Golden Gate, \nand westward far out to sea. \n\nReturning, follow the car track along Stanyan, Carl and \nClayton streets to Frederick, and Frederick east to Buena \nVista Park- You can run to the top of this 500-foot height \nand get another grand view across the city to the eastward, \nand over the Bay. \n\nThe whole trip here laid out can be made in four hours, \nwithout stops; but it would be a pity not to give a day to the \nenjoyment of its beauties and the grandeur of the scenery It \ndiscloses. \n\nIf you have but three hours, omit either the Presidio or \nTwin Peaks. \n\nAn hour or more can be spent profitably in the down town \npart of the city, including Chinatown. Or the whole can be \ncombined with a trip through the Potrero industrial district, \npassing near the Union Iron Works, the rope walk of the \nTubbs Cordage Company, the Western sugar refinery and \nother large industrial plants. \n\nII. DOWN THE PENINSULA TO HALF MOON BAY, PESCA- \nDERO AND LA HONDA. \n\nThis route will take you among some of the finest country \nestates in the world, where Italian gardeners and landscape \nartists have exercised their highest talents; to lakes as lovely \nas Como or Killarney; and over a mountain drive which, were \nit in Europe, would be favored beyond the most famous to be \nfound there. Within one day\'s journey of 98 miles you will \nsee the fertility of smiling California valleys, the sublimity of \nthe ocean, the grandeur of the mountains and the solemn \ndepths of mighty forests. \n\nStart at 9 o\'clock, or earlier if you choose, and run through \nGolden Gate Park and southward over Nineteenth avenue to \nSloat boulevard, whence you can turn southward again to \n\n\n\nAutomobiling \n\n\n\n32 \n\n\n\nSchool street, and passing Caleb Coakley\'s take the Mission \nroad to San Mateo county. \n\nAt Colma, just below the county line, are violet farms of \n400 acres extent, where the world\'s finest violets are grown. \nViolets from these beds are shipped from San Francisco up \nand down the Pacific coast and as far east as Chicago. \n\n\n\n\nGAl!l)i:X I\\ SAX MATEO COUNTY. \n\nAt Burlingame, Hillsboro and San Mateo are many of the \ncountry places of wealthy San Franciscans, beautified with \nartificial lakes, or open air Greek theaters, or conservatories \nwith unrivalled collections of orchids. \n\nFrom San Mateo take the Half Moon Bay road to Crystal \nLakes. These are part of the water supply system of San \nFrancisco, and lie extended in a softly beautiful valley for a \ndistance of over twelve miles. Crossing by the great dam, run \ndown the long grade to Half Moon Bay and the old Spanish \nTown. \n\n\n\n322 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nFrom Half Moon Bay continue down the coast through San \nGregorio to Pescadero, and thence run down to the famous \nPebble Beach. In a little strip of beach about 1 00 feet wide \nby less than 200 in length, all sorts of curious stones have \nbeen found, including a few pearls. \n\nReturning to Pescadero take the road to La Honda, over \nthe famous Alpine Drive. It will lead you into the Coast \nRange mountains, through an immense virgin forest of Cali- \nfornia redwoods, and to altitudes of hundreds of feet, whence \nyou can look for miles to the southward, across the Big Basin, \nand over great mountain ranges. \n\nFrom the little hamlet of La Honda the road proceeds \nnorthward along San Gregorio creek, taking you into the \nrefreshing depths of the forest, and again into the open, until \nas you top the mountain you reach a point from which you \ncan look down 1,600 feet and see spread before you the \nwhole floor of the Santa Clara valley. \n\nFrom this point the trip down the mountains is by a very \neasy grade to Woodside, and thence to Redwood City, 30 \nmiles south of San Francisco, on the State Highway, which \naffords fine traveling all the way back to the city. \n\nOn this trip, called the Pescadero and Alpine Mountain \nDrive, there are many beautiful branch roads which would \nkeep a traveler busy and delighted for weeks. An introduction \nis all that is necessary to make an enthusiastic San Francisco \nmotorist of any visitor that has the time to spend in the State. \n\nIII. WISHBONE ROUTE, TO SAN JOSE AND OAKLAND. \n\nFor your third day\'s tour out of San Francisco, take the \n"Wishbone Route," around the south arm of the Bay, into \nthe Santa Clara valley, to San Jose, and up the east shore \nthrough Mission San Jose, Hayward, San Leandro and Oak- \nland. It will give you one hundred miles of smooth going, \nthrough charming country, with a great variety of scene, but \non the whole, quieter and more restful than the mountains. \n\n\n\nAutomobiling 323 \n\n\n\nTake the same route to San Mateo outlined in the previous \ntrip, and continue southward through Redwood City, Menlo \nPark, and Palo Alto, the former location of Senator Stanford\'s \nfamous stock farm, and now the site of Leland Stanford \nJunior University. \n\nThere are several good hotels in San Jose, and a most inter- \nesting and beautiful country can be seen from here. To return \nto San Francisco in a day, however, and see the east side of \nthe Bay, go northward by the Gish road and the Milpitas road \nto Irvington, and here take the right-hand road for Mission San \nJose, 1 6 miles from the city of San Jose. This is a typical old \nCalifornia town. Relics of the mission and part of the old \nadobe buildings are still in the keeping of the church, and vis- \nitors are welcome. Near Irvington is the celebrated Lachman \nhome, known as Palmdale, one of the most beautiful estates \nin California. \n\nFrom the southerly point of Lake Chabot the road turns \nwhere is located the largest single block nursery in the world. \nHere you take the boulevard for Ha^rvard, passing the Ma- \nsonic Home at Decoto. There is a delightful straight run to \nSan Leandro and in to Oakland, by way of Elmhurst, Fitch- \nburg, Melrose, with its ostrich farm, Fruitvale and across Lake \nMerritt dam to Broadway, at the foot of which you take the \nOakland Harbor Ferry, (Southern Pacific), for San Francisco. \n\nIV. MARIN COUNTY AND THE MT. TAMALPAIS COUNTRY. \n\nMarin is one of the most attractive touring counties in the \nState, with a varied scenery of ever changing charm. Here \nit is not a question which is the most beautiful route, but which \nof many beautiful ones to recommend for a day\'s tour. Prob- \nably the most serviceable to suggest is to San Anselmo, Lagu- \nnitas Creek, San Geronimo and Petaluma. \n\nTake the Northwestern Pacific Ferry to Sausalito. Proceed \nnorthwesterly to Corte Madera, Larkspur, Kentfield and San \nAnselmo, all nestled in the picturesque valleys that radiate \nfrom the base of Tamalpais. \n\n\n\n324 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nFrom San Anselmo go north to Fairfax. Near Fairfax Is \na well-known French-Italian restaurant, Pasloris, where one \ndines in a rustic portico over a stream. Beyond Fairfax you \nascend the famous \'\'Whiles Hill.\'\' \n\nPast White\'s Hill, you begin to get into the mountains and \namong grand Coast Range scenery, witji forests on one side \nand cultivated hills and opens on the other. The road runs \nalong Lagunitas creek to San Geronimo, Lagunitas and Camp \nTaylor, and shortly beyond Tocaloma you take a northeasterly \ncourse through open country to Petaluma. \n\nFrom Petaluma take the road back to San Rafael, a dis- \ntance of 20 miles. From this point you can take the road over \nthe hill to Greenbrae, whence if you are curious about such \nihinrs vcu can visit the State Penitentiary at San Quentin, or \ncome directly back to Sausalito and San Francisco. \n\nAnother fine trip in this region is to turn off from Fairfax \nto the southwest and go to Bolinas Ba^. The ocean views are \nsuperb. \n\nAnother beautiful drive from Sausalito is to Greenbrae, \nthence southward to Tiburon and around the peninsula, over- \nlooking Raccoon Straits to California C/^p, and return ; a dis- \ntance, one way, of approximately sixteen miles. San Rafael \nis easily reached from Greenbrae, and so is San Quentin. \n\nV. SONOMA VALLEY, THE GEYSERS, CLOVERDALE \nAND LAKE COUNTY. \n\nThis journey is at your discretion. You can go as far and \n?tay as long as you like, in a country that is always beautiful, \nand that changes with every mile you make. \n\nNorth of Petaluma is a fairly level farming country, lying \nbetween bold hills, and affording smooth going, up to Santa \nRosa. At Santa Rosa is what might be called the "home \nfarm" of Luther Burbank, whose horticultural achievements \njiave made hi? name famous all over the civilized world. \n\n\n\nAutomobiling 325 \n\n\n\nHealdsburg is northward, and here you begin to get into \nthe enchanting valley of the Russian river, lined with fine vine- \nyards and broad orchard lands, all the way to Cloverdale. \n\nJust beyond Healdsburg a good road takes off for the \nGeijsers, a natural wonderland where one sees an enormous jet \nof steam rising mountain high, and other interesting phenomena. \nThe Geysers are 1 8 miles from Healdsburg, and offer the \ntraveler the refreshment of a steam bath, followed by a plunge \ninto fresh or sulphur water. There is a good hotel. \n\nIf you return to the main road from Healdsburg to Clover- \ndale you will soon arrive at Asii, where are located the vine- \nyards and huge wineries of the Italian-Swiss Colony,, one of \nthe largest wine making concerns in California. Here is the \nlargest wine vat in the world, a concrete cistern lined with \nglass, with a capacity of half a million gallons. Here also is \nCalifornia\'s largest champagne producing plant, and if you \nare there in May, June or July, you can see the highly inter- \nesting processes of bottling and "disgorging" champagne. \n\nCloverdale, beyond Asti, and eighty miles north of San \nFrancisco, is one of the beauty spots of California. Oranges, \nlemons and citrons grow in almost every garden. A mile be- \nyond Cloverdale is McCray\'s, or "The Old Homestead," a \npopular place for automobile parties. One can spend the \nnight here and then go on up the Russian river valley to \nPieta, in Mendocino county, whence a fine highway leads over \nthe mountains to Highland Springs and Lake county. \n\nLake County is the "Switzerland of California." Here, \nwithin a radius of twenty miles, are some of the most famous \nmedicinal springs in the country, with mineral waters equal to \nthose of some of the great European spas. Here also is Clear \nLake, a fine sheet of water about ten miles in extreme width \nby twenty in length, on which there are launches and other \nsmall craft. Lakeport, on the western shore of the lake, is \nabout eleven miles from Highland Springs, and thence there \nis a good road over the mountains to Bartlett Springs, one of \nthe most popular resorts of the State. On this road one \n\n\n\n326 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nencounters grades of 8 to 10 per cent, but the views are well \nworth it. Other well-known resorts in this celebrated county \nare Ziegler Springs, Harbin Springs, Howard, Adams, Sara- \ntoga, Witter, Anderson and Gordon Springs, and the Blue \nLakes. \n\nA traveler by automobile can leave San Francisco on a Sat- \nurday, tour the whole of Lake county and be back by the fol- \nlowing Wednesday or Thursday. Or he can follow the Rus- \nsian river to Ukiah, county seat of Mendocino county, by \ngreen hop fields and through thick woods of maple, madrone \nand redwood, overgrown with wild grapes and other climbing \nvines, make a trip to the famous Vichy Springs with its "cham- \npagne bath," go farther north to Willits, Sherwood and \nEureka, and from there tour to the Oregon line and Crater \nlake. \n\nCloser to San Francisco one can turn off to the eastward, \nthree or four miles north of Santa Rosa, to the Petrified Forest, \nwhere giant trees have been turned to stone, and then run over \nto Calistoga, at the foot of Mt. St. Helena and the head of \nthe beautiful Napa Valley (see index), one of the garden \nspots of California. This valley is about 35 miles in length, \nand can be followed down by smooth roads, over fine stone \nbridges, past ivy-clad wineries and through the beautiful town of \nSt. Helena and the thriving manufacturing community of Napa, \nto Vallejo, whence a return to San Francisco can be made by \nboat. \n\nVI. OAKLAND, LAKE CHABOT, PLEASANTON, MISSION SAN \n\nJOSE, HAYWARD. \n\nThis is an irregular circuit of about 75 miles, leading \nthrough a fascinating country to one of the loveliest of lakes, \nto the Sunol Water Temple, to the old Spanish town of Mis- \nsion San Jose, and back by the Foothill Boulevard to Oakland \nand the ferry for San Francisco. It can be made in a day, \nleaving San Francisco by 9 a. m., and returning in time for \ndinner, with time for a picnic luncheon at Sunol if you wish. \n\n\n\nAutomobiling \n\n\n\n327 \n\n\n\n\nTHE WATER TEMPLE AT SUNOL. \n\n\n\n\xe2\x96\xa0p. \n\n\n\nTake Oakland Harbor Ferry, at the slip south of the Ferry \nbuilding, which runs half-hourly beginning at 6 a. m. This \nwill land you at the foot of Broadway, Oakland. Run up \nBroadway to Twelfth street, turn to the right on Twelfth, \ncross the Lake Merritt dam, and just beyond the dam turn to \nthe left into the Lake Shore Boulevard. Where this drive \nmakes a bend to the left, following the margin of the lake, turn \nto the right instead, making a hairpin turn straight south one \nblock to East Sixteenth street. Follow East Sixteenth east- \nwardly to Fourteenth avenue, where it turns to the left a short \nblock; and proceed again eastwardly on East Sixteenth and \ncut the Foothill Boulevard. \n\nThis is good going along the foothills, very beautiful here, \nwith views across Oakland\'s inner harbor, crowded with the \nmasts of sailing vessels. \n\nAfter crossing San Leandro creek on the concrete bridge, \nturn up hill to the left just before reaching old Hunters\' Inn, \nnow headquarters for an automobile club, and after a distance \nof about two blocks take the turn to the right, which will put \nyou on the road to LaJ^e Chabot. \n\nFrom the southerly point of Lake Chabot the road turns \nsouthward (to the right), and after about five miles, with a \nleft turn and a right turn, it will lead yov^ into the Dublin \n\n\n\n328 Handbool^ for San Francisco \n\nCannon road a short distance east of Hayward. \n\nOn reaching Dubhn, continue eastward to the first or second \nright turnout, and thence drop southward to Pleasanton. You \nare now in the lovely Livermore valley, between the north \nend of the Mt. Hamilton range and the south slopes of the \nMt. Diablo range, a farming country as rich as it is beautiful. \n\nOn a rise of ground near Pleasanton is the Hacienda of \nMrs. Phoebe Hearst, where the grounds and gardens exhibit \nthe full possibilities of a rich soil and the benign California \nclimate. \n\nSouthward from Pleasanton is the old town of Sunol, and \nnear it the classic, circular Water Temple of the Spring Valley \nWater Company, the corporation which supplies San Francisco \nwith water. \n\nA most enjoyable hour or two can be spent here. On \nleaving, go south over the hill to Mission San Jose, and back \nto San Francisco over the Foothill Boulevard by way of \nHayward. \n\nVII. STOCKTON AND THE SAN JOAQUIN VALLEY \n\nSACRAMENTO. \n\nThe great interior valley of California can be reached by \nautomobile from San Francisco with ease and comfort, and \nfew trips will give a better idea of the agricultural character \nand resources of the State. It is level going, and full of variety \nand the most intense interest. \n\nGo to San Leandro by the Foothill Boulevard from Oak- \nland, as on the previously described trip, and from San Lean- \ndro continue to Hayward. From Hayward take the Dublin \ncanyon road, and follow it eastward to Livermore and Tracy. \nBetween these points, beyond Altamont, a road takes off for \nByron Hot Springs. From Tracy there is no danger of get- \nting off the Stockton road, which is a macadamized boulevard. \nFrom San Francisco to Stockton is about 80 miles, and the \nrun can be made easily in four hours. \n\n\n\nAutomobiling 329 \n\n\n\nThe return to this city from Stockton can be best made over \nthe same route, except that one can vary it by coming through \nMission San Jose. \n\nIf it is desired to make a longer trip out of San Francisco \nand see more of the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys, go \nnorth from Stockton about 47 miles to Sacramento. The road \nis a model smooth asphalt-macadam boulevard, running near \nLodi, center of a great Tokay grape district, a region that \nsupplies fancy table grapes to Chicago and New York; through \nGait, the center of a rich farming region, and on across the \nCosumnes river to the Capital of the State. Some of the \nattractions of Sacramento have been noted in another part \nof this book, and can be found by consulting the index. \n\nLAKE TAHOE. \n\nFrom Sacramento there is a fine road to Folsom, site of \none of the State penitentiaries, a good road from Folsom to \nPlacerville, and from Placerville another fine stretch of road \nup into the mountains to Tallac, on Lake Tahoe. As this is \nbeing written, the State Engineer\'s forces are constructing a \nroad around the western rim of the lake, by Emerald Bay, to \nTahoe Tavern. Thus a wonderland of mountain scenery as \ngrand and beautiful as any to be found in Europe is brought \nwithin easy automobile travel from San Francisco. \n\nVIII. CLAREMONT, WALNUT CREEK, MARTINEZ, THE \n\nGRAND STRAITS VIEV/. \nThis trip will show you wonderful scenery \xe2\x80\x94 the road from \nMartinez to Port Costa, narrow and crooked, but affording a \npanorama and water view nothing less than sublime. It is \nbetter not to attempt it in the rainy season. \n\nTake the Oakland Harbor Ferry to the foot of Broadway, \nOakland. Run out Broadway as far as Telegraph avenue, \nout Telegraph avenue to Claremont avenue, out Claremont \navenue to Claremont, with its fine hotel, and here take the \n"Tunnel Road" to Contra Costa county, Lafayette and Wal- \n\n\n\n330 Handbook for San Francisco \n\nnut Creek. From Walnut Creek, go northward through Pa- \ncheco to Martinez. Mt. Diablo will be on your right. Its \nforested slopes and long green canyons winding down to the \nplain on which you are riding make a grand landscape. \n\nFrom Martinez take the Port Costa road. It mounts the \nhills above the railroad track, skirts the heights from two to \nthree hundred feet above the water, and in places more, winds \nup to the heads of long gullies and runs out in startling hairpin \nbends around the contours of ridges where a timid traveler \nmay have some breathless moments \xe2\x80\x94 and, to repeat, it should \nnot be undertaken except when the roads are dry, and then only \nby experienced drivers. But here is one of the great views of \nthe continent. \n\nYou look down on the Straits of CarquineZy one of the sig- \nnificant water passes of the western world, for it carries the \ndrainage and a large part of the commerce of the interior \nvalleys of California down to the Bay and the city by the \nGolden Gate. It gleams and shines directly below you from \na dozen different turns of this crooked road. It bears Italian \nsalmon boats, barges, river craft with garden produce and with \nmore substantial commodities from up the Sacramento or the \nSan Joaquin \xe2\x80\x94 square-nosed "hookers" with baled hay or huge \ndeck-loads of raw wool, or sacked wheat and barley. On \nthe opposite shore is Benicia, and, down stream, Vallejo, with \nMare Island, where the United States Navy Yard is located. \nThere is a long jetty running out to confine the current and \nkeep sufficient depth in the channel. Beyond are rolling, \ntumbling hills, framing broad and fertile valleys. \n\nFrom Port Costa one can run in to Oakland by way of \nCrockett, Pinole and San Pablo, within sight of the bay almost \nall the distance, and down San Pablo avenue through West \nBerkeley to Broadway, Oakland, at the foot of which thor- \noughfare is the Oakland Harbor Ferry for San Francisco. On \nanother day, you can make a trip by the Tunnel Road to \n\n\n\nAuiomobiling 33 \n\n\n\nIX. MOUNT DIABLO. \n\nThis mountain rises over 4,000 feet and because of its \ncentral location gives one of the most magnificent views in the \nState. A good automobile road now runs to the summit, where, \nin days of old, travelers used to ascend by a horse-drawn \nstage coach from Oakland and feel that they were more than \nrepaid by the grand landscape. \n\nFrom the top you look out westward over the Bay of San \nFrancisco, and the city, if it is clear; out the Golden Gate, \nand up the velvet Hanks of Tamalpais. San Pablo Bay, Car- \nquinez Straits and Suisun Bay are part of the wondrous pic- \nture. You can see the great rivers of California and their \ndelta lands, the northern end of the San Joaquin and southern \nend of the Sacramento valleys ; the range of the Sierra Nevada \nmountains, sharply serrated, spread with great snow fields, \nfrom the region of Mt. Shasta to the region of Mt. Whitney. \nYou can see, also, Mt. Hamilton as a near neighbor, and the \nSanta Clara valley at its feet. \n\nX. MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA, DEL MONTE, MONTEREY, \n\nPACIFIC GROVE. \n\nIt is 127 miles from San Francisco to the famous California \ntravel resort of Del Monte, by way of San Jose and Gilroy; \nand three miles and a half farther to Pacific Grove, through \nMonterey, the old Spanish capital of California. It is an easy \nand beautiful day\'s ride, one way. As you can get good \naccommodations at any of the points mentioned on Monterey \nBay, it would be better to take two days at least for this \ntour, and add to it the 1 7-mile ocean shore drive out of Del \nMonte or Pacific Grove, with its recent extensions. \n\nRun straight down to San Jose from this city, a distance \nof 52. ] miles by the road. From San Jose follow First street \nsoutheast, down the center of the Santa Clara valley to Gilroy. \n\nThis is old, Spanish California, a chosen land of priest \nand hidalgo, of mission and cattle barony, and of an idyllic \nlife in a land of sunshine and plenty. \n\n\n\n332 \n\n\n\nHandboolf for San Francisco \n\n\n\n\nIN THE DEL MONTE GROUNDS. \n\n\n\nFrom Gilroy go souih by way of Sargent to old San Juan. \nHere a modern town has grown up, but it is behind the plaza \nand hidden from it. Once in the three-sided square of Spanish \ntimes, and the scene is the same as it was a hundred years ago. \nFor information on the Mission San Juan Bautista, see index. \n\nA delightful side trip of eight miles up the little San Juan \nvalley will bring you to Hollister, one of the prettiest towns \nin California, and the county seat of San Benito county. Or \nyou can take the road direct from San Juan southerly, and \nthen southwesterly over the hills to Salinas, being careful to \ntake the left turn, due south, at Santa Rita. Three miles \nsouth of Salinas you come to the Sprec^els beet sugar refinery), \nat Spreckels. The main building here is 103 feet wide, 500 \nfeet long, and six stories high, and can dispose of 3,000 tons \nof beets in 24 hours. When in operation it employs from \n800 to 1 ,000 men and can turn out half a million 1 00-pound \nbags of sugar in a season\'s ryn of 70 days, It is a jungle \n\n\n\nAutomobiling \n\n\n\n333 \n\n\n\n\nTibbitts, photo \nMIDWAY POINT, 17-MILE DRIVE, MONTEREY COUNTY. \n\nof pumps, presses, vacuum pans, and mazes of electrically \noperated tram ways, well worth stopping a few minutes to see, \nif you can gain admittance. \n\nOn Monterey Bay one reaches the 125-acre park in which \nis situated the Hotel Del Monte. These grounds contain \nevery form of plant life that can be made to grow in this \ngenial climate, and in addition there are golf links and tennis \ncourts where the finest of outdoor sport can be enjoyed right \nthrough the winter. \n\nSome of the charms of old Monterey, and Pacific Grove, \nwe have attempted to note elsewhere in this book, and at least \nsome mention of them can be found by consulting the index. \nReadily accessible from these points is the famous Seventeen- \nMile Drive, with possibilities of extending it, and taking in \nCarmel Bay, Carmel Mission and the literary colony at Car- \nmel-by-the-Sea. No traveler that has the time should omit \nthis excursion. The views of the ocean with its broken shore \n\n\n\n334 \n\n\n\nHandbool^ for San Francisco \n\n\n\nline, its bits of beach and rocky coast, of the sand dunes lying \ninland sometimes under pme woods, and the strange forms of \nthe Monterey cypresses, like gnarled and twisted cedars of \nLebanon, make a changing panorama such as you will find \nnowhere else except on the canvases of some of our enthusias- \ntic California painters. At Carmel Mission Padre Junipero \nSerra is buried, and the church contains many interesting relics. \n\n\n\n\nBIG KEDWOODS AT SANTA CRUZ. \nXI. SANTA CRUZ, BY WAY OF SAN JOSE AND LOS GATOS. \n\nSanta Cruz is the popular seaside resort at the north end \nof Monterey Bay. Near it is a grove of gigantic Sequoia \nSempervirens, individual specimens of which rank, for size, \nwith some of the Big Trees in the Sierra. Two days at \nleast should be given this expedition. \n\nGo south to San Jose as directed for trips II and III, leave \nSan Jose by way of Market street and San Carlos street, and \ncontinue southward to Los Gatos. Or, if you have seen San \n\n\n\nAutomobiling 335 \n\n\n\nJose, you can save some 14 miles by taking off to the right \nat Mayfield and running along the foot of the hills to Los \nGatos. \n\nFrom Los Gatos take the canyon road through the Santa \nCruz mountains to Soquel, overlooking the Bay of Monterey. \nThe run through the mountains will take you through 1 3 miles \nof wonderful scenery, the climax of which will be the grand \nviews, from the down grade, into the amphitheater of Monterey \nBay. \n\nFrom Soquel to Santa Cruz you will run along the rim of \nthe bay for four miles, the mountains marching on your right \nand the blue waters of the bay breaking into snow-white surf \non the yellow sands below. \n\nWhen you have reached Santa Cruz you will have made \n90 miles from San Francisco. Here are fine bathing beaches, \na swimming tank, a great casino, two or three good hotels, \none of the finest golf courses in California, and in the vicinity \nmany summer homes of San Franciscans. \n\nIf you stop over at Santa Cruz, you will find it an easy \nand delightful ride up the San Lorenzo river into the Santa \nCruz mountains to the Big Trees, Felton and Boulder Creek. \nFrom Boulder Creek it is about ten miles into the Big Basin, \na State park consisting of 3,800 acres of magnificent virgin \nCalifornia forest, with a grove of monster Sequoia Semper- \nvirens. \n\nReturning to San Francisco, you have a choice between \nthe route you took going down and the Bear Creek route, \nwhich will take you through 40 miles of the most romantic \nscenery imaginable. \n\nIt would take a larger volume than this even to enumerate \nthe interesting automobile trips one can make from San Fran- \ncisco. The above, however, will furnish a suggestion of the \nvaried topography of the neighborhood, and the beauties and \nsublimities of California scenes. \n\n\n\n336 Handboof^ for San Francisco \n\nAutomobile, Taxicab and \nCarriage Fares \n\nAutomobiles can be hired at rates varying from $2.50 to $4.50 per hour, \naccording to the capacity and quality of the vehicle. \n\nAt the time this book went to press, October, 1913, the following were the \nlegal inaximum rates. \n\nAUTOMOBILES \n\nFOUR-PASSENGER CAPACITY, EXCLUSIVE OF DRIVER \n\nFirst half hou/ or fraction thereof $2 .00 \n\nEach subsequent hour 3 . 50 \n\nSIX-PASSENGER CAPACITY, EXCLUSIVE OF DRIVER \n\nFirst half hour or fraction thereof $2 . 50 \n\nEach sub.seqent hour 4 . 50 \n\nTAXICABS (Meter Rates) \n\nTARIFF No. 1 (1 OR 2 PASSENGERS) \n\nFirst 3-5 mile or fraction thereof $ .60 \n\nEach 1-5 of a mile thereafter 10 \n\nEach three minutes of waiting 10 \n\nTARIFF No. 2 (3 OR 4 PASSENGERS) \n\nFirst i mile or fraction thereof 60 \n\nEach 1-6 of a mile thereafter 10 \n\nEach three minutes of waiting 10 \n\nFor each additional passenger over four persons for the entire journey 50 \n\nTAXICABS (Hour Rates) \n\nFor a taxicab by the hour $3 . 50 \n\nFirst half hour or fraction thereof 2 . 00 \n\nThe passenger, when engaging a taxicab, must state whether he will employ \nit by meter or hour rates. \n\nCARRIAGES AND HACKS \n\nTWO-HORSE CARRIAGE, FOUR PASSENGERS OR LESS \n\nFirst half hour or fraction thereof $1 .00 \n\nEach subsequent half hour 1 . 00 \n\nWaiting time to be at above rates. \n\nTWO-HORSE COUPE OR HACK, TWO PASSENGERS OR LESS \n\nFirst half hour or fraction thereof $ .75 \n\nEach subsequent half hour 75 \n\nFLAT RATES TO DOWNTOWN HOTELS \n\nTaxicabs, automobiles and carriages are required by the city ordinances to \ncarry passengers from the Ferry Depot, the Third and Townsend Street railroad \ndepot or the steamboat landings and steamship docks to any of the downtown \nhotels located in the " Downtown Hotel District" for a flat rate. This rate \nhad not been finally established at the time this book went to press. Drivers \nwill furnish the flat rate upon demand. The above flat rate does not apply to \nlimousines or seven-passenger touring cars furnished upon special call and not \noccupying public space for hire. \n\n\n\nStreet Car Routes 337 \n\n\n\nSTREET CAR ROUTES \n\n\n\nNumbered Lines of the United Railroads \nElectric Cars \n\n\n\nCar 1, Sutter and California. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Sutter to \nPresidio Avenue to California to 33rd via Scenic Boulevard to Sutro Heights. \n\nCar 2, Sutter and Clement. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Sutter to \nPresidio Avenue to California to Parker Avenue to Euclid Avenue to Arguello \nBoulevard to Clement to 33rd to Geary to Sutro Baths. \n\nCar 3, Sutter and Jackson. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Sutter to \nFillmore to Jackson to Presidio Avenue to California. \n\nCar 4, Turk and Eddy. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Eddy to Divisa- \ndero to Sacramento to Lake to Sixth to Clement to Eighth to Fulton to Sixth to \nLake to Sacramento to Divisadero to Turk to Mason to Eddy to Market, starting \npoint. Cars start at Powell, Market and Eddy Streets, from 4:35 p. m. to 6:39 \np. m. \n\nCar 5, McAllister. Out Market from Ferry Depot to McAllister to Fulton \nto Beach. \n\nCar 6, Hayes. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Hayes to Fillmore to Page \nto Masonic to Frederick to Clayton to Carl to Stanyan to Parnassus to Judah \nto Ninth Avenue to Forest Hill. \n\nCar 7, Haight. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Haight to Golden Gate \nPark. \n\nCar 8, Market. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Castro to 18th. \n\nCar 9, Valencia. Out Market from Ferry Depot to Valencia to Mission to \n29th to Noe. \n\nCar 10, Sunnyside (Glen Park). Out Mission from Ferry Depot to 14th \nto Guerrero to San Jose Avenue to 30th to Chenery to Diamond to San Jose \nAvenue to Sunnyside Avenue to Genessee. \n\nCar 11, Mission and Twenty-fourth. Out Mission from Ferry Depot to \n22nd to Dolores to 24th to Hoffman Avenue: returning via same route except \nbetween 22nd and 22th, on Chattanooga instead of Dolores. \n\nCar 12, Ingleside. Out mission from Ferry Depot to Onondaga to Ocean \nAvenue to Sloat Boulevard to the Beach. \n\nCar 14, Cemeteries. Out Mission from Ferry Depot to Daly City and \nColma to Cemeteries, via San Jose^Road. Line runs only to Daly City after \n7;07p. m. ^.^\xc2\xb1.^^^^^. ^.^^ .^ \n\nCar 15, Third, Kearny and North Beach. From Third and Townsend \nvia Third to Kearny to Broadway to Powell to Jefferson: returning from \nJefferson to Powell, via Powell, to Columbus Avenue to Union to Stockton to \nBroadway to Kearny ^q Third to To^j:if?end St. Deoot. \n\n\n\n338 Handbook for San Francisco \n\n\n\nCar 16, Third and Kentucky \xe2\x80\x94 Ferry. From Ferry Depot via Embarca- \n(lero to Broadway to Kearny to Third to Berry to Fourth to Kentucky to \nRailroad Avenue to 32nd . \n\nRailroad Avenue Extension. From 32nd and Railroad Avenue via Rail- \nroad Avenue to San Bruno Avenue to Milliken Avenue to Sunnydale Avenue \nto Six Mile House. \n\nCar 17, Ellis and Ingleside. From Third and Townsend via Townsend \nto Fourth to Ellis to Divisadeto to Page to Stanyan to Frederick to Lincoln Way \nto Twentieth to W. Street to 19th Avenue to Sloat Boulevard to Ocean Avenue \nto Ingleside Terrace. \n\nCar 18, Mission. From Fifth and Market via Fifth to Mission to Onondaga \nAvenue. \n\nNote: \xe2\x80\x94 Sundays the line is extended to Holy Cross via Mission and San Jose \nRoad . \n\nCar 19, Ninth and Polk. From Polk and Lombard via Polk to Post to \nLarkin crossing Market to Ninth to Brannan. \n\nCar 20, Ellis and Ocean. From Third and Townsend via Townsend to \nFourth to Ellis to Divisadero to Page to Stanyan to Frederick to Lincoln Way \nto 49th Avenue to B Street: returning via 49th Avenue to Lincoln Way to \nFrederick to Stanyan to Oak to Divisadero to O\'Farrell to Hyde to ElUs to \nFourth to Townsend to starting point. \n\nCar 21, Hayes and Ellis. From Fourth and Market via Ellis to Divisadero \nto Hayes to Stanyan to Fulton: returning via Stanyan to Hayes to Divisadero \nto O\'Farrell to Hyde to Ellis to starting point. \n\nCar 22, Fillmore and Sixteenth. From Broadway and Fillmore via \nFillmore to Duboce to Church to 16th to Bryant. \n\nNote: \xe2\x80\x94 From 6:37^ a. ni. to 8:25 a. m., and from 4:29 p. m. to 5:49 p. m., in \naddition to the above mentioned route, the line runs over the following exten- \nsion; from 16th and Bryant to Kansas to 17th to Connecticut to 18th to Ken- \ntucky to 23rd. \n\nFillmore Hill. This extension of Line No. 22 runs from Broadway and \nFiUmore via Fillmore to the Bay (the entrance to the Exposition Grounds). \n\nCar 23, Fillmore and Valencia. From Divisadero and Sacramento via \nSacramento to Fillmore to McAllister to Gough to Market to Valencia to Mis- \nsion to Richland Avenue. \n\nNote: \xe2\x80\x94 On Sundays only this line is extended from Divisadero and Sacra- \nmento via Sacramento to First Avenue to Lake to Sixth to Fulton to Eighth to \nClement to Sixth to Lake to First Avenue to Sacramento. \n\nCar 24, Mission and Richmond. From Bank Street and Cortland Avenue \nvia Cortland Avenue to Mission to 16th to Church to Duboce to Fillmore to Oak . \nto Divisadero to Sacramento to Lake to Sixth to Fulton to Eighth to Clement \nto Sixth to Lake to Sacramento to Divisadero to Page to Fillmore to Duboce to \nChurch to 16th to Mission to Cortland Avenue and Bank Street. \n\nCar 25, San Bruno. From Fifth and Market via Fifth to Bryant to Army to \nSan Bruno Road to Dwight. \n\nNote: \xe2\x80\x94 Line terminates at 22nd and Mission after 8 p. m. \n\nCar 26, Guerrero (Ocean View). From Ferry Depot via Mission to 14th to \nGuerrero to San Jose Avenue to 30th to Chenery to Diamond to San Jose Avenue \nto Daly City. \n\nCar 27, Bryant. From 2nd and Market via 2nd to Bryant, to 26th to \nMission: returning via 26th to Bryant, to 10th to Brannan, to 2nd to Market, \nNote: \xe2\x80\x94 Line terminates at Fifth and Market after 7:50 p. m. \n\n\n\nStreet Car Routes 339 \n\n\n\nUnnumbered Lines \n\n(ELECTRIC CABS) \n\nDivisadero Street Extension. The line runs on Divisadero from Sacra- \nmento to Jackson com ecting with hnes numbered 3, 4 and 24. \n\nEighteenth and Park. From Stanyan and Waller to Clayton to Frederick \nto Ashbury to Casselli Avenue to Falcon Avenue to 18th to Guerrero to 14th to \nHarrison to Third. \n\nNote: Line runs only to 8th and Harrison after 7:04 p. m. \n\nParkside. From 35th and Sloat Boulevard via 35th to V Street to 33rd \nAvenue to T Street to 20th Avenue. \n\nSan Mateo. From 5th and Market to 5th to Mission to San Jose road to \nCemeteries to Burlingame to San Mateo. \n\nVisitacion. From Mission and Geneva Avenue via Geneva Avenue to \nWalbridge Avenue to Schwerin to McDonald to County Line to Milliken Avenue \nto Sunnydale Avenue to Six Mile House. \n\nSouth San Francisco, Railroad and Peninsula Co. (South City Line.) \nFrom Paint Factory via P. R. W. to South City (South San Francisco) to Holy \nCross cemetery. \n\nTwenty-second and Howard. From Army and Precita via Army, Folsom, \n26th, Howard, 22nd, Chattanooga, 24th to Hoffman Avenue: returning via 24th \nDolores, 22nd, Howard, 26th, Folsom, Precita to Army. \n\nBosworth Street. From Glen Park and Berkshire via Berkshire to Bos- \nworth to Mission. \n\nFolsom. From Precita Avenue and Folsom ^da Folsom to Embarcadero to \nthe Ferry Depot. \n\nHoward Line. From Rhode Island and 24th, via 24th, to Howartl to \nEmbarcadero to Ferry Depot. Line runs to 22nd and Mission after 12:20 a. m. \n\nMontgomery and Tenth. From 10th and Bryant, via 10th, Polk, Grove, \nCity Hall Avenue, to Leavenworth to Post to Montgomery to Washington to \nKearny. \n\nSixth and Sansome. From Sixth and Brannan, via 6th Street to Taylor \nto Post to Kearny to Bush to Sansome to Chestnut. \n\nMission and Ocean. (Sundays and Holidays only). From the Beach via \nSloat Boulevard to Ocean Avenue to Onondaga to Mission to 8th to Market. \n\nEighth and Eighteenth Streets Line. From 23r(l and Kentucky, via \nKentucky, to 18th to Connecticut to 17th to Kansas to 16th to Bryant to 8th \nto Market. From 5:45 a. m. to 8:42 a. m. and from 4:18 p. m. to 6:36 p. m, \nthis Une runs to 18th and Railroad Avenue. \n\nHarrison Street. From Third and Townsend, via 3rd, to Brannan to 2nd to \nBryant to Stanley Place to Harrison to Steuart to Howard to Embarcadero to \nthe Ferry Depot. \n\nFirst and Fifth Streets. From Fifth and Market, via 5th, to Brannan to \n2nd to Folsom to 1st to Bush: alternating trip to Battery and California: re- \nturning via 1st to Folsom to 2nd to Brannan to 3rd to Townsend to 4th to \nBrannan to 5th to Market. After 6 p. m. this line runs from 2nd and Market to \nBryant and Alameda Streets, from 2nd and Market via 2nd Street to Bryant to \nAlameda: returning via Bryant to 10th to Brannan to 2nd to Market. \n\nUnion Street Line. From Ferry Depot via Embarcadero to Washinaton to \nMontgomery to Columbus Avenue to Union to Larkin to Vallejo to Franklin to \nUnion to Lyon into the Presidio Reservation : returning over same route to the \nEmbarcadero via Jackson instead of Washington. (To be operated as a munici- \npal line in 1914.) \n\n\n\n340 Handbool^ for San Francisco \n\nCABLE LINES \n\nCastro Cable. From 26th and Castro via Castro to 18th and Castro. \n\nJackson Cable. From Jackson and Steiner, via Steiner, to Washington to \nPowell to Market: returning via same route except from Powell to Steiner via \nJackson instead of Washington. \n\nPowell Cable. From Bay and Taylor, via Taylor, to Columbus Avenue to \nMason to Washington to Powell to Market: returning via same route, excejlt over \nJackson between Powell and Mason instead of Washington. \n\nSacrameTitO Cable. Froin Fillmore and Sacramento, via Sacrainento, to \nLarkin to Clay to Embarcadero to Ferry Depot: returning via Embarcadero to \nSacramento to Fillmore. \n\nPacific Avenue Cable. From Divisadero and Pacific Avenue, via Pacific \nAvenue, to Polk Street. \n\n\n\nThe Geary Street Municipal Line \n\n(ELECTRIC) \n\nLine A. From Ferry Depot out Market to Geary to Tenth Avenue to Golden \nGate Park. \n\nLiae B. From Ferry Depot out Market to Geary to 33rd to Balboa to 45th \nto Cabrillo to the Great Highway. \n\nNote. \xe2\x80\x94 Additional municipal lines will be in operation by 1915. \n\n\n\nCalifornia Street Cable Railway Company \n\n(CABLE) \n\nCalifornia Street Line. From California and Market, via California, to \nPresidio Avenue. \n\nHyde and O\'Farrell Line. From Market and O\'Farrell, via O\'Farrell, to \nJones to Pine to Hyde to North Point Street. \n\nJones Street Line. Runs on Jones from O\'Farrell to Market. \n\n\n\nINDEX TO HANDBOOK \n\n\n\nPage Nos. \n\nAlameda 262 \n\nAlcatraz Island 1 89 \n\nAlligator Farm 98 \n\nAlpine Drive 3 1 5 \n\nAmerican Institute of Banking. 204 \nAmundsen\'s Sloop "Gjoa". ... 155 \nAndrews Diamond Palace.... 59 \n\nAngel Island 95 \n\nAnza, Juan Bautista 7 \n\nAyala, Lieut 7 \n\nAppraisers Building 89 \n\nArmory 11 3 \n\nArt Association, San Francisco 160 \n\nAshbury Reservoir 100 \n\nAsti 283-284-325 \n\nAtchison, Topeka and Santa \n\nFe Ry 47 \n\nAuditoriums 1 30 \n\nAutomobiling 315 to 335 \n\nBaggage 31 \n\nBakers Beach 95 \n\nBand Concerts in the Park . . 1 52 \n\nBank Exchange 138 \n\nBanks and Finance . . . .203 to 208 \n\nBanks and Clearings .203 \n\nBaseball 240 \n\nBaths and Natatoria 47 \n\nBattery, Spencer 187 \n\nBay Excursions 254 \n\nBelvedere 271 \n\nBenicia 290 \n\nBerkeley \xe2\x80\xa2 . . . 265 \n\nBerkeley and the University of \n\nCalifornia 265 \n\nBerkeley Christian Science \n\nChurch 267 \n\nBig Basin, California Redwood \n\nPark 300 \n\nBig Trees 309 \n\nBlack Point Cove 188 \n\nB\'nai Brith 210 \n\nBoard of Trade 231 \n\nJBoat Houses 246 \n\nBook Stores 62-198 \n\nBooks on San Francisco 190 \n\n\n\nPage Nos. \n\nBowling on the Green 251 \n\nBroderick, Senator 13 \n\nBryce\'s Description 19 \n\nBuena Vista Park 114 \n\nBuffalo Herd 152 \n\nBurbank\'s Farm at Santa Rosa 281 \n\nCafes 50 \n\nCalifornia City 324 \n\nCalifornia Development Board 164 \n\nCalifornia Indians 163 \n\nCalifornia Market 180 \n\nCalifornia Street Cable 92 \n\nCalistoga 286 \n\nCalvary Cemetery 1 40 \n\nCamera Club 227 \n\nCamp Meeker 282 \n\nCapitol of California 291 \n\nCarmel Mission 334 \n\nCarquinez Straits and Power \n\nLine 288-330 \n\nCasey, James P \xe2\x80\xa2 \xe2\x80\xa2 11 \n\nCemeteries 1 39 \n\nCemeteries in San Mateo \n\nCounty no \n\nChamber of Commerce 231 \n\nChess and Checker Club ..... 193 \nChinese Funeral and Wedding 70 \nChinese Mortuary Chapel .... 1 85 \nChinatown Telephone Exchange 73 \n\nChinese Newspaper 77 \n\nChinese Festivities 80 \n\nChinese Processional Dragon . 1 59 \n\nChinese Restaurants 71 \n\nChristian Science Church at \n\nBerkeley 267 \n\nChurches 116 to 127 \n\nCircuit Court of Appeals 1 72 \n\nCity Hall (temporary location) 177 \n\nCity Prison 1 73 \n\nCivic Center 175 \n\nClaremont 262 \n\nClaus Spreckels Building 65 \n\nCliff House 97 \n\nClimate 20 \n\nCloverdale 2o3 \n\ni \n\n\n\nPage Nos. \n\nCloverdale Citrus Fair 284 \n\nClubs and Societies 223 \n\nColombo Market 161 \n\nCommercial Organizations ... .231 \n\nComstock Lode CO \n\nComstock Mines 15 \n\nConflagration of 1906 17 \n\nCook & Sons, Thos 46 \n\nCoppa\'s Restaurant 1 38 \n\nCouncil of Women 227 \n\nCounty Relief Home 99 \n\nCricket 242 \n\nCriminal Courts 1 72 \n\nCrocker Art Gallery 291 \n\nCrossley Reflector 297 \n\nCrystal Lakes 231 \n\nCustom House 89 \n\nCustoms Regulations 22 \n\nDesolation Valley 313 \n\nDewey Monument 62 \n\nDiamond Palace 59 \n\nDrake\'s Bay 186 \n\nDublin Canyon Road 327 \n\nDunning, W. H. & Co 46 \n\nDutch Windmill 155 \n\nDel Monte 300 \n\nEast Shore Cities ....257 to 262 \n\nEducational Facilities 210 \n\nEl Camino Real 148 \n\nElder\'s Book Store 162 \n\nElectioneer\'s Skeleton 215 \n\nElk\'s Hall 210 \n\nEmanu-El 62 \n\nEmbarcadero 9-27 \n\nEmperor Norton 190 \n\nEms-Bourne Tours Co. (Ltd.) 46 \n\nEpiscopal Cathedral 90 \n\nEschscholtzia Californica .... 184 \n\nExposition Tour Co 46 \n\nExpress Offices 221 \n\nEmergency Hospitals 220 \n\nFallen Leaf Lake 237 \n\nFerry Boats 254 to 257 \n\nFerry Building 85 \n\nFisherman\'s Wharf 102 \n\nFishing 234 \n\nFly Casting 238 \n\nFootball 241 \n\nFoothill Boulevard 260 \n\n\n\nPage Nos. \n\nFoieword \n\nFort Baker 273 \n\nFort Barry 274 \n\nFort Gunnybags 12 \n\nFort Mason 188 \n\nF\'ort Miley 187 \n\nFort McDowell 95 \n\nFort Point 28 \n\nFort Winfield Scott 107-274 \n\nFruits \xe2\x80\x94 See California Devel- \nopment Board 164 \n\nFruit Pests 29 \n\nFrench Restaurants 51 \n\nCaspar de Portola 7 \n\nGerman House 210 \n\nGetting Up Town 30 \n\nGeysers of California 284 \n\nGjoa 155 \n\nGlass-bottomed Boat 302 \n\nGlen Alpine Springs 312 \n\nGoat Island 24 \n\nGold Discovered 291 \n\nGold Production \xe2\x80\x94 See Mining \n\nBureau 1 66 \n\nGolden Gate 19 \n\nGolden Gate Park 149 \n\nGolf 246 \n\nGreat Circle Route 6 \n\nGreat Highway 20 \n\nGreek Catholic Cathedral .... 106 \n\nGreek Colony 56 \n\nGreek Theater \xe2\x80\x94 Berkeley .... 265 \n\nGrills ... 56 \n\nGrove- Play of the Bohemian \n\nClub 224 \n\nGuerneville 281 \n\nGulf of the Farallones ....6-28 \n\nHalf Moon Bay 298 \n\nHall of Justice 172 \n\nHall of Records 99 \n\nHamman Baths 48 \n\nHandball 248 \n\nHarbor View 1 88 \n\nHavens Art Gallery 264 \n\nHayward 260 \n\nHealdsburg 283-284 \n\nHearst Collections \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nAnthropology 161 \n\nHigh Buildings 65 \n\nHorseback Riding 240 \n\n\n\nPage Nos. \n\nHorseshoe Roule 262 \n\nHospitals and Sanatoria ... .218 \n\nHotel Del Monte 300 \n\nHotels 32 to 46 \n\nHouse-numbering Plan 20 \n\nHunters\' Point Drydocks 25 \n\nHunting Licenses 239 \n\nHuntington Falls 1 54 \n\nHyde & O\'Farrell Street Cars 92 \n\nIndian Basketry 163 \n\nInformation Bureau 46 \n\nInsectary 291 \n\nInstitute of Art 160 \n\nInverness and Tomales Bay ..282 \n\nIshi 163 \n\nIslais Creek 110 \n\nJames King of William 11 \n\nJapanese Stores 71 \n\nJapanese Tea Garden 1 53 \n\nJenny Lind Theater 1 73 \n\nJunipero Serra 7-302 \n\nKey Trolley Trip ......... .262 \n\nKing, Thomas Starr 13 \n\nKnights of Columbus Hall... 210 \n\nLa Honda 322 \n\nLake Chabot 268 \n\nLake County 325 \n\nLake Merced \xe2\x80\xa2 \xe2\x80\xa2 113 \n\nLake Merritt 259 \n\nLake Shore Boulevard 327 \n\nLake Tahoe 312 \n\nLatin Quarter 88 \n\nLaurel Hill 141 \n\nLeland Stanford Junior \n\nUniversity 214 \n\nLetterman Hospital 219 \n\nLibraries 1 92 \n\nLick Monument 99 \n\nLick Observatory 296 \n\nLime Point 28 \n\nLincoln Park 184 \n\nLloyd Lake 154 \n\nLone Mountain 139 \n\nLolta\'s Fountain 133 \n\nMail Docks 84 \n\nMare Island Navy Yard 285 \n\nMarin and Sonoma Counties . .280 \n\n\n\nPage Noi. \n\nMarkets 180 \n\nMarshall Square 99 \n\nMasonic Cemeteries 144 \n\nMasonic Home 323 \n\nMasonic Temple 209 \n\nMedal Presented to San Fran- \ncisco 1 59 \n\nMedical and Law Colleges ..211 \n\nMemorial Museum 1 56 \n\nMerchants Exchange 231 \n\nMill Valley 283 \n\nMills Building 61 \n\nMills College 216 \n\nMining Bureau 166 \n\nMint 167 \n\nMinting, private 171 \n\nMission Dolores 145 \n\nMission San Jose . . .323 and 261 \nMission San Juan Bautista. . . 303 \n\n"Mission" The 113 and 110 \n\nMissions of California 303 \n\nModel City Prison 1 73 \n\nModel Yacht Regattas 155 \n\nMoney 22 \n\nMonte Rio 282 \n\nMonterey 301 \n\nMontgomery Block 136 \n\nMonuments and Landmarks ..131 \n\nMl. Diablo 27-331 \n\nMt. Diablo Country 262 \n\nMt. Hamilton and Lick Ob- \nservatory 296 \n\nMt. Olympus 134 \n\nMt. Sutro 99 \n\nMt. Tamalpais 275 to 279 \n\nMountaineering 253 \n\nMountaineering \xe2\x80\x94 See Sierra \n\nClub under "Clubs\'* 226 \n\nMuir Woods 279 \n\nMuseum of Anthropology .... 161 \nMuseum of Casts \xe2\x80\x94 Berkeley. .267 \nMuseum of Vertebrate Zo- \nology \xe2\x80\x94 Berkeley 267 \n\nNapa 287 \n\nNapa Valley 286-287 \n\nNational Cemetery 317 \n\nNational Guard Armory .... I 13 \nNative Sons of the Golden \n\nWest 64 and 210 \n\nNetherlands Route . 288 \n\nNewspaper Square 25-27 \n\n\n\nHI \n\n\n\nPage Nos. \n\nNob Hill 16-89 \n\nNorthwestern Pacific . .47 and 256 \nNuestra Senora de Guadalupe 102 \n\nOakland 258 \n\nOcean Shore Railroad 298 \n\nOdd Fellows Cemetery 143 \n\nOdd Fellows Hall 210 \n\nOld Cemeteries 139 \n\n"Old St. Mary\'s" 93-136 \n\nOlympic Club 224 \n\nOstrich Farm 98 \n\nPacific Gas and Electric Map. 62 \n\nPacific Grove 302 \n\nPacific Heights 108 \n\nPacific Railroad 14 \n\nPalmdale 261 \n\nPanama-Pacific International \n\nExposition 28-177 \n\nPanama-Pacific Site 105 \n\nPark, Golden Gate 149 \n\nPebble Beach 322 \n\nPeck-Judah Co, Inc 46 \n\nPescadero 322 \n\nPetaluma 281 \n\nPetrified Forest 326 and 286 \n\nPhotography \xe2\x80\x94 See "Clubs" . .227 \n\nPiedmont 261 \n\nPiedmont Art Gallery 264 \n\nPoint Bonita 28-274 \n\nPoint Lobos 28 \n\nPolo 250 \n\nPopulation 17 \n\nPortals of the Past 1 54 \n\nPortsmouth Square 10-173 \n\nPosition 18 \n\nPost Office 171 \n\nPotrero 25 \n\nPrayer Book Cross 1 54 \n\nPresidio 1 06 \n\nPresidio Terrace 318 \n\nPress 199 to 203 \n\nPrivate Minting 171 \n\nProduce District 88 \n\nPullman 270 \n\nPumping Station No. 1.84 and 109 \n\nRailroad Offices 46 \n\nRaymond and Whitcomb . . . 46 \nReservoir on Twin Peaks .... 100 \nRestaurants, Cafes and Grills. . 50 \n\n\n\nPage Nos. \n\nRichmond 269 \n\nRifle and Revolver Shooting. .252 \n\nRincon Hill 114 \n\nRincon Point 85 \n\nRiver Boats 254 to 257 \n\nRobertson\'s Book Store 198 and 62 \n\nRoss 283 \n\nRowing 246 \n\nRussian Hill 90 \n\nRussian River 282 \n\nSacramento 290 \n\nSacramento River \xe2\x80\x94 \n\nNetherlands Route ..288 to 291 \n\nSt. Helena 287 \n\nSt. Mary\'s College 218 \n\nSan Anselmo 282 \n\nSan Francisco \xe2\x80\x94 -the name .... 10 \n\nSan Francisco Bay 18 \n\nSan Jose 294 \n\nSan Juan 305 \n\nSan Leandro 268 \n\nSan Mateo Ill \n\nSan Rafael 280 \n\nSanta Clara 295 \n\nSanta Clara Valley 294 \n\nSanta Cruz 299 \n\nSanta Rosa 281 \n\nSanta Rosa and Burbank\'s Ex- \nperimental Farm 281 \n\nSaratoga 295 \n\nSausalito 270 \n\nSchool of Design 1 60 \n\nSchools 211 \n\nScottish Rite Temple 210 \n\nSeal Rocks 98 \n\nSeventeen Mile Drive 303 \n\nSierra Club 226 \n\nSierra Nevada 253 \n\nSightseeing Automobile Cars . . 131 \n\nSix Companies 76 \n\nSonoma 283 \n\nSonoma County 280 \n\nSouthern Pacific Co 46 \n\nSports 233 to 253 \n\nSpreckels Beet Sugar Refinery 332 \n\nSpreckels Lake 155 \n\nStadium 155 \n\nStandard Oil Building ....;. 61 \n\nStanford University 214 \n\nState Flower \xe2\x80\x94 Eschscholtzla \n\nCallfornica 1 84 \n\n\n\nPage Nos. \nStatistics of California \xe2\x80\x94 See \nCalifornia Development \n\nBoard 165 \n\nSteamship Lines of San Fran- \ncisco 222 \n\nStevenson Monument 135 \n\nStock Exchange 60 \n\nStockton 293 \n\nStow Lake 1 54 \n\nStreet Railway Trips 91 \n\nStreet Railways and Routes 91 &337 \nSummer School \xe2\x80\x94 Berkeley ...213 \n\nSuperior Court 1 73 \n\nSutro Baths 48 and 97 \n\nSutro Gardens 95 \n\nSutro Museum 97 \n\nSutter\'s Fort 291 \n\nTahoe, L ake 312 \n\nTamalpais 24 \n\nTanforan Ill \n\nTaxicab Rates 336 \n\nTelegraph Hill 25-87 \n\nTelegraph Offices 221 \n\nTemple of Quan Dai 77 \n\nTemple of Queen of Heaven 74 \n\nTennis 248 \n\nTetrazzini Tablet 133 \n\nTivoli Opera House. . .64 and 128 \n\nTheaters 127 to 130 \n\nThird and Townsend Depot . . 109 \n\nTicket Offices 46 \n\nTomales Bay 282 \n\nTomb of Thomas Starr King. . 127 \n\nTourist Agencies 46 \n\nTrack and Field 242 \n\nTransport Docks 28-29- 18S \n\nTrap Shooting 252 \n\nTriangle Trip 280 \n\n\n\nPage Nos. \n\n7 rotting Races 251 \n\nTurkish Baths 48 \n\nTurn Verein 228 \n\nTwin Peaks 319 \n\nUnion Iron Works 109 \n\nUnion Square 62 \n\nU. S. Mint 167 \n\nU. S. Sub-treasury 61 \n\nUniversity of California . .212-265 \nUniversity of St. Ignatius ....217 \nUniversity of Santa Clara ... .218 \n\nValidating Tickets 46 \n\nVallejo 286 \n\nVessel Movements 47 \n\nVigilance Committee 11 \n\nViolet Fields at Colma 321 \n\nWater Front 84 \n\nWater Temple at Sunol 328 \n\nWestern Pacific 47 \n\nWhat Cheer House 142 \n\nWhat To Eat 50 \n\nWholesale Flower Market ... 182 \n\nWinehaven 270 \n\nWishbone Route 322 \n\nWoman\'s Occidental Board of \n\nForeign Missions 76 \n\nV/oodward\'s Gardens 1 42 \n\nYachting 243 \n\nYerba Buena 7 \n\nYerba Buena Cove 131 \n\nYerba Buena Island 24 \n\nYosemlte Valley 306 \n\nY. M. C. A 210 \n\nY. M. 1 210 \n\nY. W. C. A. 210 \n\n\n\nPress of \n\nPhillips & Van Orden Co. \n\nSan Francisco \n\n\n\n^ \n\n\n\n^ \n\n\n\n^ \n\n\n\n^ \n\n\n\nr^^ \n\n\n\nS)i \n\n\n\nOGRAPHERb.INC S.f \n\n\n\nWW \n\n\n\n'