Economy 



in 



the Buying 

and 

Preparation 
of Meats 



Price Fifty Cents 



M. JL 



WILSON & CO. 



ir^v 



n« 



Economy 



in 



the Buying 

and 

Preparation 
of Meats 



ELEANOR LEE WRIGHT 

Director " 
Domestic Science Department 
Wilson & Co. 



Price Fifty Cents 



WILSON & CO. 



© 1917 Wilson \ Co. 



■D 

INDEX ^ v\^ 

Foreword ! 1 

Value of Meat 2 

Selection of Meat 3 

Planning Meals 4 

Meat Cuts 5 

Care of Meats 6 

Principles of Meat Cookery 7 

Tough Meats Made Tender 8 

Cooking by Ear — Fuel Economy 9 

Successful Seasoning 10 

Sauce and Gravy 11 

Utensils — Desirable Aids in Meat Cooking 12 

A Bit of Thrift 13 

Care of Cooked Meats 14 

Oleomargarine 15 

Side of Beef — Chart and Description 16 

The Chuck — Short Cut 17 

Navel End of Plate 18 

Whole Chuck 19 

Plate— Brisket End 20 

Flank Steak 21 

Shank 22 

The Rump 24 

The Round 25 

Boneless Cuts 26 

The Plate 28 

The Flank 28 

The Ribs 29 

Beef Loin 30 

The Short Loin 30 

•The Loin End 31 

Broiling 31 

Miscellaneous Beef Recipes 32-35 

Helpful Hints 36 

Government Bulletins 37 

Mutton and Lamb Cuts — Description and Recipes .. . .38-40 

Cuts of Pork ■ 41 

Sliced Bacon 42 

Memorandum 43 

The Wilson Label 44 

Wilson's Majestic Poultry 45 

Wilson's Majestic Hams and Bacon 46 

Wilson's Majestic and Laurel Lard 47 

Wilson's Canned Meats 48 

Wilson's Oleomargarine 49 

Wilson's Luncheon Delicacies 50 

Wilson's Clear Brook Butter and Eggs 51 

Wilson's Jams, Jellies and Preserves 52 

Wilson's Canned Vegetables and Condiments 53 

.••, : ©CI.A41:)4 8H7 

The Wilson Label ProtectsYour Table BJ^|ll^||iBK=i 



FOREWORD 



CONSERVATION of food supplies is one of the most 
important problems confronting the world today. Under 
present conditions, food products must be bought with 
economy and utilized with care. We have prepared this book 
in the hope that it will help the housewives of America to 
purchase and use food products carefully and wisely. 

This cook book illustrates in a simple, practical manner 
the different cuts of meat, and tells in everyday language the 
most economical and appetizing methods of preparing them 
for the table. 

The cheaper cuts of meat heretofore have been neglected ; 
possibly because people considered them not good enough, 
or did not realize their high nutritive value. 

The suggestions here presented will be new to many a 
modern housewife, yet our grandmothers used these inexpen- 
sive cuts and relied upon them for some of their best dishes. 

The average grade of live stock today is much superior to 
that of ten or fifteen years ago. Consequently, when we use 
the cheaper cuts of meat, we have the advantage of this 
betterment in quality. 

For example, in considering meats, we naturally think of 
the loins and ribs. These constitute only a part of the meat 
available in the animal. It is obvious that if all the available 
meat is used properly, the total supply of meats will 
increase in proportion, and the average price will be lowered 
correspondingly. 

The charts and illustrations show you just how the cuts 
of meat look and tell you exactly what portions to ask for. 
They also show you the large percentage of excellent meat that 
is not being utilized by the average family. 

Our recipes tell you in detail the best way to prepare these 
cuts for the table. You can only take full advantage of this 
knowledge by doing your marketing in person. You must 
select your own meats if you expect high quality at a reason- 
able price. The average woman, in a very short time, will 
learn the different cuts of meat and their value as well. 
This applies to all food products, as well as to meats. 

We have compiled our recipe book along practical lines. 
We want it to be useful and helpful to those who have to make 
every penny count — to the family of moderate means — and to 
the more prosperous as well. So that you will save money 
and have better food, study this book and accept its suggestions 
in the spirit in which they are given. 



V^r xC*.^ — -TO 



President 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table 

1 




MEAT is most important in our daily living. It is the 
staple food in the countries that show the greatest 
enterprise and energy. Eminent authorities all agree 
on the desirability of some meat as an article of diet. 
Meat is almost completely digested by a normal person; is 
always available, easy to prepare, and tastes good. The 
savory odors that arise in the cooking of meat arouse pleasant 
anticipation. The consumption of meat in this country is 
larger than that in any other nation; meat is cheaper here 
and of a better quality. We have been prosperous and use 
meat freely — often wastefuUy. Conditions demand that this 
waste be stopped; we are not asked to omit meat, but to use it 
intelligently. Economy means wise use, not denial. 

Very young and very old people require little meat; and 
it is required only in moderation by anyone. Amounts vary 
with individual conditions, occupations and habits. People 
who are undernourished lack resistance to ward off disease 
— those in prime health have the greater resistance. Meat 
has a higher food value than most vegetables. 

Thrift demands wisdom in the selection and use of foods — 
but to greatly reduce one's daily amount of actual nourishment 
is a dangerous thing. Economy is not incompatible with the 
use of meat. With forethought and care, we may practice 
conservation and still be comfortably fed. Proper feeding is 
essential for good work — underfeeding handicaps efficiency. 

Never before in history has the housewife had such an 
opportunity to help her country. Wise buying, careful prep- 
aration and sensible serving are necessary to take full advantage 
of this opportunity. Health must be conserved, bodies 
nourished, needs gratified and tastes pleased; all at a minimum 
cost. Many prejudices must be discarded by loyal people — 
that all foods may be utilized. Nature demands a certain 
balance; a lack in one element must be made up by another. 
When the meat supply is scant, the increased use of butter is 
immediate — indicating a doubtful economy. We pay a good 
price for meat, eggs and milk, but get full value for our money. 
No other foods repair bodily waste so perfectly. The digesti- 
bility of meat depends somewhat upon texture and fat, as 
well as upon the cooking, but the actual difference between 
various meats is slight. Meat is the most satisfying food that 
we place upon our table. I 

= ^M^ l ^m The Wilson Ubel Protects Your Table rfl|(il|^fa=J 




TRUE economy consists in knowing the nature of the 
various cuts of meat as to their proportion of fat, lean, 
bone and waste. If we eliminate fat, the edible meats 
vary little in their food value; the loins and ribs, which form 
about one-fourth of the weight of the cattle, represent nearly 
one-half the retail cost. The rational way to equalize the 
market is to use all of the meat, but the demand for center 
cuts of quality has so increased that the lower priced parts are 
sadly neglected. Yet experience in making soups shows that 
a greater amount of extract and flavoring matter is found in 
these cheaper portions. 

Meat economy may be practiced either by using the tough 
cuts of high quality meat, or the more tender cuts of meat 
from ordinary grades. The former method requires more care 
in the cooking — the latter furnishes less flavor. Each house- 
wife makes her own choice, but many will be glad of suggestions 
that cut down the cost of meats and supply nourishing dishes 
at the same time. 

Government inspection is a tremendous factor in the 
production of meat. The breeder knows that his cattle must 
undergo a most rigid examination by a number of government 
experts. These experts must be graduated veterinaries and 
pass a rigid civil service examination before they are admitted 
to the Government Inspection Bureau. These men are on 
hand to detect any indication of unsound meat before, during 
and after the stock is slaughtered. Our greatest insurance 
against unwholesome meat is the stamp of Government 
Approval, and only meat which bears this guarantee should be 
purchased. Immediate chilling follows the killing of the 
animal and the meat is kept from five to ten days in a sanitary 
cooler to render its condition perfect. The meat is then ready 
for the refrigerator of the retail butcher, where it hangs until 
placed on the block. 

The Government stamp assures us that the meat is from 
healthy stock, but it cannot go further and point out why one 
animal is finer than another — since, while all the meat is good, 
some is better. Meat should be heavy for its bulk, solid and 
firm. The bones of young animals are spongy and those of 
mature stock solid. Uncut beef is a deep red color; it turns 
brighter after it is cut and exposed to the air. The color of 
the fat may come from breed and feed, as well as from 
maturity — a creamy, waxy fat is preferable to a yellow, 
oily one; but fat there must be to indicate proper feeding. 
Lean meat supplies muscular tissue, but fat is needful for 
health and energy. Fat meats have finer fiavor in addition 
to their greater food value. Correct methods of utilizing fats 
form an important item of household economy. 

=@^^ppta The Wilson Label Protects Your Table ^J^^UP^ 




SATISFACTORY marketing can only be done in person. 
The order boy and the telephone are convenient at times, 
but do not prove economical in daily use. Some plan- 
ning should be done before going to market, but it may be de- 
sirable, when one sees what the retailer has in stock, to change 
these plans. Sensible women patronize reliable dealers and do 
not hunt for food bargains, which often are actually unsafe. 
A clean market means wholesome food and an insurance 
against doctor bills. Upon the choice of meat depends the 
choice of vegetables for the same meal, so the butcher should 
be visited first. We must not mistake cheapness for economy. 
Solid meat at 30 cents a pound is cheaper than half bone and 
half fat at 20 cents. Soup or stew needs bone for flavor — a 
pot roast may be boneless. 

We need variety in our diet, but this variety should be 
obtained by having a different menu each day rather than a 
large number of dishes at any one meal. The old fashioned 
idea of a table laden with all kinds of food is not considered 
good form today — since it leads to overeating, which is not 
only harmful, but deprives others of needed food. The good 
housekeeper takes "just enough" for her motto. She is neither 
extravagant nor stingy and well cleared dishes at the end of a 
meal are an indication of her careful planning. She has few 
left-overs, but those which she has, are carefully used at future 
meals. It is often desirable to cook enough of a certain food 
for two meals at one time, but it should not be all placed on 
the table at the first meal — as then no one is tempted to 
overeat and there is no hint of future service. The amount 
of foods necessary may not be calculated exactly at first — 
but experience will soon teach the housewife how to figure the 
correct amount required. Appetites are often made fickle by 
frequent repetition, careless cooking or a poor combination 
of different foods. 

Some attention must be given to fuel economy in planning 
a meal. The cook who uses the oven for one dish and the top 
burners for several others at the same time shows poor judgment ; 
her oven should be used at full capacity whenever possible. 
A list of standard dishes that the family likes is a convenience, 
although no set of menus, however helpful, can be exactly 
followed, as tastes and personal choice differ. In time of 
unusual conditions, however, we should all try to eat the foods 
that are available. 

Intelligent marketing, careful preparation, skilful cookery 
and judicious service are tasks worthy of any woman. 



The Wdson Label Protects Your Table 







THE cook, to use tough meats to the best advantage, 
must know how to utilize all the fat. The home rend- 
ering of excess fats and those remaining from cooked 
meat, cuts down the need for commercial fats and oils. The 
clarifying of used fats greatly increases their use. There is a 
world shortage of fats today, so that not an ounce should be 
wasted. 

Large bones should be cracked before cooking to get all 
possible flavor, gelatine and marrow out of them; this neces- 
sitates straining the liquid after the cooking is completed, so 
as to avoid all bits of bone. Meat trimmings, unless tainted, 
should be used with the bones to prevent waste. In fact, 
every part must be accounted for. 

The housewife should take advantage of the fact that 
tenderness, appearance, and convenience in cooking, rather 
than actual food value, largely determine retail prices. The 
facts are that the cheaper cuts of meat are by far the 
most economical from every standpoint. She can get the most 
for her money by purchasing tough cuts and serving tender 
ones through skilful methods of cooking. Either money cost 
or considerable labor must be put into food materials to produce 
perfect results, she who has more time than money finds it 
pays to spend time in her kitchen. Statistics show that over 
30 per cent of the average modest income is spent for food, 
and these figures do not take into account any allowance for 
fuel or labor. This indicates the large amount of responsibility 
that rests upon the shoulders of the housewife. 

The prudent buyer considers the following points in choos- 
ing meats: 

(1) Quality, which includes color, grain and fat. 

(2) Method of cooking, which includes flavor, fuel and 
time. 

(3) Number to be served; also whether all the meat is to 
be used at one meal or part reserved for a second serving; the" 
possible use of left-overs. 

(4) The cost, which means not only the initial outlay but 
the total cost of fuel, time and additional material. 

It is a common belief that the cheaper cuts use enough 
more fuel to make the final expense equal. But this is absolutely 
untrue if the heat be properly regulated. Ten minutes' broil- 
ing of chops at a high temperature costs more than four 
hours' simmering of a tougher cut. Another popular, but 
mistaken, idea is that the shrinkage, due to long cooking, 
greatly exceeds that of short cooking. When cooked in the 
right way, there is little difference and no loss in flavor if the 
liquid and the meat are combined. 



f — IVll^j^yfai The Wilson Label Protects Your Table I 




Care 
of 
.9VI(?ats 




WHEN meat is brought into the kitchen, either by the de- 
livery boy or by the housekeeper herself on her return 
from market, the wrapping should first be removed 
and the meat weighed to check up the household accounts. 
Buy a pair of good scales; keep them in a handy place for in- 
coming supplies and use them. First weigh the plate or dish in 
which the meat is usually placed ; then weigh the meat itself and 
deduct the weight of the dish. Trim off any portion of the meat 
that looks unsound, or has a particle of odor. Divide the meat 
into the proper amount, if only a portion of it is to be cooked 
that day. Wipe with a damp cloth, or scrape the surface of 
the meat with a knife, but avoid washing it unless necessary, for 
juices are lost when meat is placed in water. When washing is 
essential, it should be done quickly and the meat wiped dry. 
Place the meat on a plate or other suitable container and put 
it in a cool place (but never on ice) until ready to use. 

Meat kept for some hours should be well covered. Almost 
any clean utensil may be used, either of crockery, aluminum 
or enamel ware; but iron and tin will rust, cracked plates 
absorb odors and chipped granite is unsafe. . The common 
custom of using any old dish for the pantry and the refrigerator 
is neither sanitary nor economical. Careless tooks put meat 
away without removing the paper in which it is wrapped and 
then wonder why the flavor is impaired and juices are lacking 
with the result that the butcher gets the blame for faults which 
lie nearer home. 

It sometimes happens, that owing to a change of plans, 
the meat purchased for use today must be kept over until 
tomorrow. If refrigeration is good, a days delay will cause 
no harm, but the use of a marinade is a wise precaution, 
especially since both beef and mutton are really improved by 
it. 

A modified French Dressing is prepared by blending a 
tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice with two or three table- 
spoons of oil (olive, corn or peanut oil may be used) and adding 
a light seasoning of salt and pepper. If desired, a bit of bay 
leaf or onion may also be added, but if this is done, the meat 
should be tightly covered if placed afterwards in a f-efrigerator. 

The meat is placed in an earthen dish and thoroughly 
coated with this marinade and turned occasionally to dis- 
tribute the coating evenly. The amount of dressing necessary 
is determined by the quantity of meat with which it is to be 
used. The oil enriches the meat, the acid makes it tender and 
the combination protects the surface from the air and aids in 
preserving it; a good steak is made better and poor meat more 
palatable by this process. 



i The Wilson Label Protects Your Table I 




WE cook meat for one of two purposes — either for the 
meat itself or for soup; a combination of the two meth- 
ods is possible in a stew or casserole dish where meat 
and liquid are served together. 

Different methods of cooking meat depend largely upon 
the meat itself — tough fibres require an entirely different 
treatment from tender meat, but in every case the first con- 
sideration is to retain the juices. The larger the surface of the 
meat the more the juices are likely to be drawn out; that is 
why we cut meat into pieces for soup. The protein of meat is 
partly soluble in cold water and as we wish to secure as much 
of it as possible in the making of good soup, cold water is used. 
The meat should be allowed to stand in the cold water before 
heating until the liquid becomes red and then slow heat applied 
to still further draw out the juices. Tough meat and poor 
soup is the result of rapid cooking which hardens the albumin 
and retains the juices in the meat instead of allowing them to 
escape. 

A tender cut should be cooked at a much higher temperature 
than tougher pieces and the method employed in cooking any 
particular piece of meat depends upon its quality and the cut. 
Hence, a proper understanding of muscular fibre is necessary 
in selecting meat. It is quite possible to roast or broil a piece 
of meat that is hung a little too long, but meat for stewing 
must be fresh and sweet. 

If cost is not an object, the ribs and loins furnish 
flavor and nutriment together with meat in its most tender 
form. If we desire to retain the juices in the meat, we myst 
apply strong heat to harden the surface. This heat may be 
applied in several ways — by the direct heat of broiling over a 
flame; by radiated heat in a hot oven; by contact with hot 
fat or a heated utensil; or by immersion in boiling water. 
The result of intense dry heat differs entirely from that of 
moist heat. A caramel-like flavor is developed under dry 
heat at a much higher temperature than the boiling point of 
water. It is this special flavor that makes the pot roast richer 
than the boiled meat and gives steak the fine taste that is lacking 
in a stew. 

The flavor of meat is much improved if it is browned before 
boiling; this crisping or browning may include all or only a 
portion of the surface. To make a savory broth put part of 
the meat in cold water and heat slowly as in soup making; 
then add the brown parts for additional richness and simmer 
the whole until tender. If meat does not have sufficient fat 
to crisp in the hot pan by itself, additional fat must be added. 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table I 



\EV 




Ooug^A meats 
mado Condor 




THE juices evaporate quickly in cooking unless the meat 
is protected by the fat. Brown meat well but avoid 
scorching if you value your digestion and your repu- 
tation as a cook. Boiling liquid surrounding a piece of meat 
holds in the original flavoring matter, but does not impart the 
additional flavor obtained by dry heat. 

The whole process of preparing the cheaper cuts demands 
time, care and attention to detail. 

Certain cuts are best adapted to certain dishes only and 
some cuts are adapted to various dishes; but the same general 
principle underlies the preparation of them all. 

We soften tough muscles by several different processes: 

(1.) Long, slow cooking (the most important way). 

(2.) Chopping or grinding, to separate the fibres. 

(3.) Pounding, to break the fibres. 

(4.) The use of acids, such as vinegar or lemon juice. 

(5.) Freezing or hanging the meat in a low temperature 
(Cold Storage); this develops acids which soften the meat 
without injuring it. 

Opportunity for variety lies in adapting these methods to 
the various cuts. Principles are far more important than 
formulas, since the inexperienced woman needs a recipe for 
every dish, while the careless will turn out a poor product 
with the best recipe. No given rule will always work out 
perfectly for ingredients differ in composition and quantity 
and conditions vary. Consequently, the methods of prepara- 
tion are more important than individual recipes. 

Cold storage, under proper conditions, is a great boon to 
the consumer. It keeps clean food clean at a temperature at 
which deterioration is impossible. If it were not for modern 
cold storage, the market would be flooded with needful foods 
at one season and without them at another. The average 
person has no conception of the wonderful value of the present 
system of cold storage which modern scientific knowledge has 
developed. The waste of food products would be appalling, 
if there was no way of keeping them at a continued low 
temperature. 

Chicago is the largest food distributing centre in the world 
and consequently has the largest cold storage plants. 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table 

8 




Cooking hy Ear 
FuqI Economy 




IT IS a wise precaution to avoid a draft upon a kettle over 
a slow fire — for this reason, the back burner is a sen- 
sible choice. In a slow oven the flame is not exposed and 
once the burner is adjusted, the meat may be left in peace ; 
there is no need for watchful waiting. 

Repeated experiments in slow cooking with a tightly 
covered utensil show that the amount of fuel used is amazingly 
small. In fact, it is possible to keep liquid at the simmering point 
for any length of time desired without attention with a con- 
sumption of less than two feet of gas per hour. 

Other fuels show that comparative cost is always in favor 
of slow cooking. Oil and gasoline burners cannot be main- 
tained at as low a point as gas and the protection of an asbestos 
mat or thick iron plate is therefore advised to temper the heat. 
Wood and coal are harder 'to regulate for any extended period, 
and the results will never be the same if the meat boils hard 
part of the time and stops cooking entirely at other intervals. 
Steady continuous heat is essential for the best results. Fireless 
cookers serve admirably for this type of cooking and some of 
the latest devices in gas and electric ovens provide a fireless 
cooker arrangement that is almost human in its regulation. 

Too much emphasis cannot be laid upon the slow cooking 
method. Some cooks think nothing is accomplished without 
a "good fire" — the kettle boils merrily but the spirits of the 
family are sad, as good food has been wasted by being cooked 
too fast. 

The toughest piece of meat in the world can be made palat- 
able if it is cooked right. The cooking may take a long time, 
but when the meat is done properly, it will be tender enough 
to cut with a fork and yet compact when served. 

Additional flavors are helpful, close-covered kettles are 
desirable, ample time is essential; but the chief necessity is to 
cook slowly. The temperature that allows no breaking of the 
liquid into bubbles, but just a gentle rippling of the surface, 
will eventually soften the hardest tissue. There is a foreign 
saying — "The pot should only smile, not laugh," that sums up 
the whole matter. If one cannot smell the cooking or see the 
steam from the kettle, she may listen closely to satisfy her 
curiosity; a slight sound of bubbling is all that is needed to 
convince her that the good work is going on. Any woman 
can cook by ear and when she knows that all is well, she may 
leave her cooking for hours if need be, based on the knowledge 
that with such a low fire food canrjot burn, for it cannot cook dry. 

The Wilson Label ProtectsYour Table 






-a.' 






Succossful 
Soasoning 




WE have few meats but many flavors — consequently, 
by combining different spices and herbs one cut of 
meat has many variations. Ordinary meats are im- 
proved by good seasoning and fine ones made finer. Several 
materials in small amounts give better results than an excess 
of any one. Too much flavoring will ruin the food — just enough 
makes a common dish a success. In a well stocked pantry we 
find thyme, summer savory, marjoram, mace, cloves, sage, 
peppercorns, paprika, celery salt, bay leaves and nutmeg. 

Vegetables of all sorts should be utilized — the ends of 
tomatoes or carrots, or the coarse stalks of celery furnish flavor 
without added cost. Onion is almost indispensable in the 
cooking of meat, but when onipn is prohibited our next best 
flavor is celery. The leaves, root, or outer stalks are chosen 
and the better part of the celery saved for separate service. 
Onion juice is often preferred to the onion itself. Clean parings 
and unsightly bits of any vegetable may be utilized to pre- 
vent waste and improve taste. 

Garlic often arouses prejudice, but it has a wonderful flavor 
when carefully used. The least bit is all that is needed. Dried 
mushrooms are often substituted for fresh ones — the cost per 
pound is high, but only a small amount is needed when they are 
soaked and cooked. 

Beef extract should be in every kitchen — not only for 
warmed over meat which needs more meat taste, but also to 
enrich soups and sauces. 

F"or vegetable seasoning we depend upon the onion family, 
shallot, leek, scallions, chives and garlic; upon peppers, both 
green and red, and upon tomatoes, carrots, turnips, parsley and 
celery as well. 

Special dishes call for mustard, chili powder, curry powder, 
capers, ginger, horseradish, tomato paste, catsup, mush- 
rooms, raisins and vinegar of various kinds. 

Brown sugar will correct a dish, if it is too salty, but it is 
hard to remedy food that burns. 

Different fats may be used in browning meat, such as the 
fat from ham, bacon, salt pork or roast beef. These fats which 
give variety to the flavor are carefully saved by the thrifty 
cook. 

Squares of coarse cheesecloth or white mosquito netting 
are handy for tying up seasonings, so that they can be removed 
before the cooking is finished, and are particularly desirable for 
removing vegetables that would spoil the flavor of the meat if 
cooked too long with it 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table 3 




THE natural juices which flow from the roast or steak 
when carved are true gravies, but custom has applied 
the term "gravy" to the thickened liquid which is prop- 
erly known as the sauce. Care in making these sauces results 
in a smooth, pleasing combination, thoroughly cooked, well 
seasoned and served piping hot. Half cooked, lumpy, flavor- 
less sauces or gravies are unwholesome and wasteful. 

In cooking meat, we utilize the fat of the meat itself to 
enrich the gravy, while in made dishes, beef drippings or beef 
fat, cooked out of bacon, are used. Use meat fat when dishes 
are warmed over. Any one of the following ingredients — 
wheat, rice, or corn flour, corn starch, arrowroot, or bread 
crumbs may be used to thicken the gravy. Blend in a shal- 
low saucepan in the proportion of three tablespoons of flour 
and two tablespoons of fat to a cup of liquid. The liquid 
should be added gradually and the mixture stirred constantly 
as it cooks. The preparation takes a little longer when the 
liquid is cold; but the sauce is more certain to be smooth. 
The mixture should be stirred with a fork as it thickens, as 
the use of a fork, instead of a spoon, will prevent lumps. 

If it is hot desirable to cook the flour in the fat, or incon- 
venient to skim the fat from the stock, the thickening in- 
gredients may be carefully mixed with cold water and stirred 
into the liquid. The liquid should be taken off the fire when 
the mixture is stirred in, as this will avoid too rapid cooking 
and uneven results. After the thickening is added, replace the 
dish on the fire and stir as it cooks. 

A third method is to mix the softened fat and flour smoothly 
in a bowl, blend with a little of the liquid, add to the stock 
and cook until the gravy thickens. 

If a rich brown sauce is required, the meat fat is first well 
browned in a heavy pan, then flour is added. The whole is 
browned carefully, and the liquid poured in gradually. It is 
necessary to use a little more flour in this method, as browned 
flour does not thicken as much as ordinary flour. 

If there is no stock on hand, a substitute can be made. by 
cooking bits of vegetables in water, and seasoning with beef 
extract. Milk may be substituted for the stock in some meat 
dishes. 

Thickened gravies which boil for some time are apt to 
separate, and the fat comes to the surface. This fact is utilized 
in making gravy for people with poor digestions, since the fat 
can be entirely removed before serving. If gravy accidentally 
boils and separates, add a few spoonfuls of boiling water, stir 
vigorously, and it will be restored to its former smooth con- 
sistency. 



TheWflson Label Protects Your Table 



^ m >r 



11 




HJcsirahle aids in 
JMoat Cookijx^ 



MlkUim\ 



MANY choice pieces of meat are spoiled by cooking in 
unsuitable utensils; consequently the butcher sometimes 
gets the blame when the trouble is in the kitchen. 
Kettles, that are too large, waste fuel. Kettles should have 
close fitting covers and flat bottoms broader than the flame 
under them. The shape of the kettle should depend upon the 
kind of fuel available, and its size upon the use to which it is 
to be put. Aluminum is easy to clean, holds heat, and is 
always safe. The lack of seams in aluminum cooking utensils 
is an advantage. 

Iron also holds the heat, and is very satisfactory. A heavy 
frying pan should be part of the equipment of every kitchen. 
A revival of old customs is shown in the "EXitch Oven" or the 
iron kettle with an iron cover. 

Enamelware, unless of good quality, is not desirable. Food 
has a tendency to stick to it, and cheap enamelware chips 
easily. High grade tinware is a better investment than 
cheap granite ware. Copper and nickel are too expensive for 
the average kitchen and need great care in their use. 

Earthenware, in the form of a casserole, is deservedly pop- 
ular. It can be used for many dishes, holds heat well, is easy 
to clean and does double duty as a cooking and serving dish. 
The regulation dish, glazed inside and out, is suitable only for 
use in the oven; but the brown or red clay dish which is dull 
on the outside can be used on top as well as inside the range. 
This is a great help in fuel economy. With the protection of 
an asbestos mat, such a dish may be used over a low flame for 
hours with perfect results both in flavor and food value. 

The fireless cooker is adaptable to slow cooking of all sorts. 
It saves time and attention during the process, but requires an 
earlier start. 

Portable ovens of various kinds save fuel and do away with 
extreme heat in the kitchen in summer; the flavor of baking 
is far better than when foods are cooked directly over the fire, 
as the whole surface is equally heated. Covered roasters are 
well adapted for braising, and for preparing similar dishes. 

In addition to these various dishes, a cook requires good 
knives and a knife sharpener, a meat grinder, a heavy cutting 
board, wire rack or trivet, skimmers, wooden spoon, strong 
meat fork, quart measure, basting spoon, coarse and fine 
strainer. Reliable scales are a sensible investment, and a set 
of steel skewers has many uses. 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table 



12 





"Jkrift 




THIS story of a piece of brisket beef illustrates the possi- 
bilities of inexpensive meat. The amounts given are for a 
small family, but maybe readily increased for a large one. 
A generous three-pound piece of brisket beef costs 50 cents, 
and it may be cut so as to give almost two pounds for serving 
whole (see recipe for brown brisket, page 20), and the re- 
mainder, cut up and cooked with a quart of cold water and 
various seasonings, will make a good soup. The piece of meat 
to be used in soup making should be cooked in a tightly covered 
kettle, with a low flame for about five hours. The fuel cost 
will be a little over a cent, and there will be no loss of 
liquid. The meat and fat are then removed from the bone 
and separated while still warm — then set aside to cool. The 
broth will make the foundation of a fine vegetable soup, or the 
popular onion soup with cheese. For the latter, the onions are 
sliced thin and cooked in a small amount of water, or no liquid 
at all. They should be cooked with a tight cover, over a low 
fire. Slices of bread are toasted, covered with cheese and 
put into the oven, or under the flame, to melt the cheese. 
The onions and the broth are put into deep soup dishes, 
with a slice of the cheese toast on each one, and the result 
is a delectable dish, which will be eaten with relish by the 
whole family. 

The meat remaining from the first meal and the soup meat 
can be chopped together and used as hash, meat balls, or in 
any other way preferred. Served with a little gravy, they will 
furnish the main part of another meal. All pieces of fat should 
be put into a covered kettle with a little water and cooked until 
the bits are crisp and the fat clear. The cooking should be 
watched to avoid scorching. When the cooking is complete, 
put through a fine strainer, and the result is a cup of rendered 
fat, and a cup full of fat scraps for future cooking. These 
scraps, when salted, will make a fine sandwich filling, or can 
be added to gravy for baked or boiled potatoes. Thus 
the three pounds of brisket beef, yield one meal of fresh meat, 
one hearty soup for the main part of a dinner, one reheated 
meat dish, one service of fat scraps, and one cup of rendered 
fat. While considerable labor is involved, yet the cost of this 
meat has been very low. How many women are willing to give 
the time and thought to these simple but important economies ? 
Each one must answer for herself. Every housewife who is at 
home serving her country can accomplish such a saving, and 
every little bit helps. 



The Wdson Label ProtectsTour Table 

13 




WHENEVER possible, the bone and the fat should be 
separated from left-over meat as soon as the meal is 
finished, as this can be done easier and better while the 
dish is still warm. Roasted or boiled meat mav have bone, 
which still contains value, and this bone can be cooked, together 
with the parts that cling to it and with other trimmings, a 
second time, for stock. The meat should be pur in some utensil 
that prevents it from drying out. Containers, of either enamel 
or red clay, are good — since they are unbreakable and useful 
for reheating. Plates or shallow dishes are a poor choice. The 
meat should be packed solid, covered with the stock, if any is 
available, and then put away as soon as possible to cool. 

Cooked meat should be used up as quickly as possible in 
hot damp weather; dry heat is not so hard on food materials. 

Salted and smoked meats keep better than fresh meats, 
and for this reason are often chosen for slicing cold in summer. 
Jellied meats should not be kept over 24 hours in hot weather 
or two days in cold as they offer a fine field for bacteria. 

A serious handicap to economy in the use of meat is the 
unreasonable prejudice against reheated meat. 

Flavor and fat are often lacking to be sure, but food values 
remain; consequently in preparing dishes for cooked meat, it is 
well to add other seasonings, and enrich the dish with fat in 
some such form as sauces. By cutting meat small or chopping 
it up, the portions are more easily heated and the flavors better 
distributed. So far as possible the flavor in the second service 
should be quite different from that of the original service. 

Continued heat and high temperature should both be 
avoided, as they toughen meat and make digestion difficult. 
With these facts in mind, it is possible to prepare a variety of 
excellent dishes from cooked meat, and several kinds of meat 
can often be used to advantage at one time. It is an error to 
warm over a choice steak — if good at first, it will be good cold, 
or sliced in thin strips for luncheon or supper. Reheating 
steak spoils its fine flavor. The various steamed dishes 
may be substituted for those to whom fried foods are 
forbidden, and hash is undesirable. They are convenient 
when it is impractical to use the oven. Turned out of a 
mold and covered with a good sauce, they are attractive and 
palatable. No thoughtful woman will serve the same meat at 
two successive meals. Under favorable conditions (cold 
weather, or with a good refrigerator) she may even avoid 
repetition the next day. A meatless dinner — fish or fowl — may 
be used in between times to afford variety. 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Tabled 

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SH^'Art ' 




Gomavi^arino 



• a 

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THE importance of fat in the diet is not generally recognized ; 
but a moderate use of it is always necessary. Fat may be 
in the form of cream, milk, oil, butter or oleomargarine, or 
in the form of the fat of meat. The worker must have fat to do 
his work ; the child must have fat for proper development ; and 
all must have it for bodily need and for bodily energy. No sen- 
sible mother restricts the use of butter or oleomargarine as a 
spread for children's bread. Winter calls for additional fats in 
our food to keep warmth in our bodies. The poor in pocket are 
often poor in health for lack of sufficient fats. Good butter 
is high, cheap butter is unpalatable, and under these condi- 
tions, little butter is used. 

The clean, wholesome article known as Margarine or Oleo- 
margarine is little understood. Ignorance has classed it with 
renovated butter and the prejudice against it is not confined 
to those who lack education. 

The truth of the matter is that Oleomargarine, made by a 
reputable firm and sold under a dependable brand, is one of 
the cleanest and most wholesome food products on the market. 
Unlike butter, every pound of oleomargarine must stand gov- 
ernment inspection; the examination is rigid and the standard 
high. The better grades of oleomargarine are churned with 
milk or cream to increase richness, and give a butter flavor. 
Oleomargarine goes just as far as butter and keeps better be- 
cause there is less moisture in it. Consequently, there is an 
additional economy in its use. Scientific tests show that the 
difference in the food value of butter and oleomargarine is too 
slight to be taken into account in the average diet. Govern- 
ment experts and practical housewives both highly endorse 
oleomargarine as a wholesome and desirable, product. It may 
well displace butter in cooking and even where great economy 
is not a consideration, it is a delicious product to serve on the 
family table. It is better than cheap butter, and far safer. 
Most people like to know what they are eating, and they can 
be sure of purity and cleanliness when they use oleomargarine, 
for every ingredient contained in it is used on the table in some 
form or another. 

The theory that fats are hard to digest has been exploded. 
It takes more time to digest fat than some other foods, 
and fats are not readily assimilated by some individuals. 
Fried articles (foods coated with a layer of fat) are not easily 
digested; but generally speaking, fats that are not overheated 
or rancid can be thoroughly digested by any normal person. 
Excessive heating of fat form.s acids that are undesirable. The 
use of pastry, doughnuts, etc., is not advocated for a per- 
son with a delicate stomach; but a bland, weak fat, such as 
butter or oleomargarine, can be used universally. 

The Wilson Label ProtectsYourTablel 

i5 



SIDE OF BEEF 




1 CHUCK-Suitable for pot 
roasts, stews, casserole dishes 
and spiced beef. 

2 PLATE— Suitable for soup and 
pot roast. Cjenerally used for 
making corned beef. 

3 SHANK -Used mostly for 
soups and stews; also for ham- 
burger steak. 

4 FLANK — Practically a bone- 
less cut Can be used with very 
little waste Contains the flank 
steak Flank meat makes ex- 
cellent fKjt pie. 

5 ROUND— A juicy cut, free 
from fat. The top (or inside) is 
used for steak and roasts The 
bottom (or outside) is best 
chopped. 

6 RUMP — About one-third fat 
and one-half lean meat Gen- 
erally used for steaks, corning, 
braising and F>ot roast. 

7 RIBS— There are seven ribs in 
tnis cut . About one-half is lean 
meat, one-third fat and one- 
sixth bone. The two ribs nearest 
the loin make excellent roasts. 
Ribs are always roasted. 

8—9 — 10 LOIN — Contains the 
choicest steaks and is divided 
into two portions, the short loin 
and the loin end This latter 
cut contains the sirloin, pin- 
bone and porterhouse steaks. 

1 1 CLOD— There is practically no 
waste in this cut. It is used 
principally for steaks and pot 
roast. 

12 BRISKET — Used mostly for 
corned beef, also used for soup, 
pot roast and stew. 

13 NECK— Good for mince meat; 
also as a brown stew Flavor 
and richness arc added by cook- 
ing with salt pwrk. 



THE hindquarter will average over one-half lean meat, 
one-thirci fat and one-tenth bone; the forequarter al- 
most two-thirds lean, one-fourth fat and an eighth bone. 
Some cuts of beef require special methods of preparation, 
while others are interchangeable. One suggestion as to cooking 
may apply to several different cuts. The loin and rib (all 
tender meat) comprise only about one-fourth of the side of 
beef. Beef may be juicy and have a fine flavor without tender- 
ness, hence the importance of a thorough knowledge of good 
cooking methods. Generally speaking, tender meat is in- 
dicated by the color, fine grain and the lack of connecting 
tissue. Tender meat is marbled with fat, firm yet pliable and 
easily cut. 



TheWikon Label Protects Your Table! 



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THE CHUCK (SHORT CUT) 

The first cut from the shoulder — chuck — gives a good steak, cheaper than round steak. 
The round bone chuck is the first cut from the shoulder, and cannot be excelled for Al pot 
roast. The clod, which extends from the shoulder chuck into the fore-shank, is a boneless 
portion also suitable for pot roast or for braising. It has high value as solid meat, but 
requires fat in cooking to secure a balanced proportion. The chuck is economical 
meat, since it consists of about two-thirds lean, one-fifth fat and from one-quarter to 
one-eighth bone. Chuck has an excellent flavor, and is adapted to numerous methods 
of cooking. 



CHUCK ROAST— Score the fat 
side of the meat to prevent the 
skin from curling, and crisp each 
side quickly over the gas flame, or 
in a hot oven. Reduce the heat, 
baste the meat with the fat that 
cooks out — add salt, after it is well 
browned. Trimmings of meat 
with bits of tomato and celery, 
slices of carrots and onions added, 
cooked in a pint of water, will form 
a good stock. This stock can be 
cooked with the same heat, but 
in a separate utensil. The roast 
may have small potatoes (boiled 
ten minutes and skins removed) 
placed around it, the last half 
hour; or a Yorkshire pudding can 
be baked below it (the meat 
standing on a trivet.) An hour and 
a half is ample time to cook a me- 
dium six -pound roast. Brown 
gravy is made from the beef fat in the 
pan and the strained stock, with 
the addition of flour for thickening. 

POT ROAST— Use a EXitch Oven 
(an iron kettle with an iron cover) 
or a heavy frying pan well heated. 
Place the fat side of the meat down 
first; when well crisp^ed, turn and 
brown the other side thoroughly; 
season with salt, pepper, garlic and 
parsley. An onion with two or 
three cloves stuck in it may be 
browned lightly with the meat. 
The meat should then be cooked 
in the same utensil, tightly covered, 
or in the kettle from the fireless 
cooker. Let it simmer until quite 
tender, turning once during the 
cooking. Use no water as the 
tight cover will hold in all the 
moisture. Allow about an hour to 



a pound for cooking. Some cooks 
prefer to use a little water, but this 
is not necessary. Make a gravy 
of the brown fat, an equal amount 
of flour, and water or stock. 
Noodles or macaroni may be served 
in the gravy as a separate dish. 
SWISS STEAK— The steak should 
be cut at least two inches thick. 
Use a half cup of fllour for a slice of 
meat weighing two pounds and 
mix well with salt and pepper. 
Pound the flour thoroughly into the 
meat with a wooden potato masher, 
or the edge of a heavy plate. Heat 
one-fourth of a cup of fat, strained 
from ham or bacon, and brown the 
meat on each side in this fat. Then 
add a few slices of onions and one- 
half of a green pepper chopped fine, 
two cups of boiling water or part 
strained tomato. Cover closely and 
let it simmer for two hours, or 
cook it in a casserole in the oven. 
Swiss steak may be cooked without 
any liquid if preferred, as its own 
moisture is sufficient. The onion 
may be omitted or other vegetables 
added as desired. 

BEEF GOULASH— Cut the beef 
into cubes or slices and sprinkle 
with vinegar and a little summer 
savory. Add a teaspoonful of salt, 
and half teaspoonful of paprika ; cook 
six onions for each two pounds of 
meat, slowly, in one-fourth of a cup 
of oleomargarine. Add the cooked 
onions to the meat, cover tightly, 
and cook slowly for about two 
hours. The liquid may be in- 
creased just before serving by the 
addition of a little beef stock, or 
either sweet or sour cream. 



The Wikon Label Protects Your Table! 



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NAVEL END OF PLATE 

The meat from the navel end is sometimes used for stew and pot roast, but more often 
it is corned. Corned and smoked meat are toughened by the process of curing, so they 
need longer cooking than fresh meat. Always place cured meat in cold water, heat gradu- 
ally, and skim the water when it begins to bubble. It is almost impossible to cook cured beef 
too slowly, as it is toughened by strong heat. A steam cooker or double boiler gives good 
results. 



CORNED BEEF— Wash the meat 
quickly and if it has been in brine 
longer than is desired, cover it 
with cold water and bring slowly to 
a boil, drain off the water and 
reheat with fresh cold water. As 
soon as the liquid bubbles, reduce 
the heat, add a few peppercorns, 
and continue the slow cooking (al- 
ways below the boiling point), until 
the meat is tender. At least one 
hour's cooking will be required on 
each pound of beef. Keep the 
meat closely covered during cook- 
ing and it will have to be turned 
when partly done, if the water does 
not cover it. Carrots, parsnips, 
turnips and potatoes can be added 
during the cooking if desired. 
Cabbage and meat should not be 
placed in the same kettle. Cut the 
cabbage into quarters, use some of 
the stock to cook it in to obtain 
a meat flavor. Vegetables can all 
be cooked in the stock without the 
beef, if the meat is to be used cold 
afterwards. Place the left-over 
meat that is to be served cold in 
the stock to cool. 

CORNED BEEF HASH— To one 

pint of chopped meat, add a pint 
and a half of chopped cooked 
potatoes. Use one-third of a cup 
of beef drippings combined in a 
frying pan, and add to this two 
tablespoons of minced onions. Mix 
the hash thoroughly with the fat 
and the seasoning, and add just 
enough water to moisten well (half 
a cup will be sufficient). Cover 
closely, and cook slowly for half 
an hour or until a brown crust is 
formed on the bottom. Loosen 
carefully from the pan and turn out 
like an omelet on a hot platter. If 
the oven is in use, hash may be 



baked either in a frying pan or in a 
shallow dish from which it can be 
served. For variety a cup of white 
sauce instead of water, may be 
mixed with baked hash, in which 
case less fat will be necessary for 
cooking. Garnish the hash with 
parsley. 

BAKED BEEF WITH VEGE- 
TABLES— Cut a pound and a 
half of round, chuck or flank steak 
into strips and roll in flour that has 
previously been seasoned. Prepare 
a cup each of sliced onions and 
sliced carrots. If the latter are 
old, first boil them for fifteen min- 
utes, drain off the water, blanch in 
cold water and remove the skins. 
Select a large baking dish or meat 
pan and put in alternate layers of 
the meat and vegetables. Add a 
half cup of diced salt pxark and a 
generous dredging of flour. Put in 
enough water to cover and bake 
for one hour and a half. Then 
cover with halved potatoes and 
bake until done. 

SAVORY BEEF — Cut two 
pKDunds of beef into pieces of a size 
for serving. Slice three large onions, 
place in pan and brown slowly in 
three tablespoons of lard. Increase 
the heat, add the meat and brown. 
Mix three tablespoons of flour with 
a teaspoon of salt, a fourth of a 
teaspoon each of black pepper, 
ground cloves and thyme, or sum- 
mer savory; sprinkle this mixture 
over the meat. Add a pint of stock 
(or boiling water and beef extract) 
— two tablespoons of vinegar and 
one tablespoon of catsup. Cover 
closely and simmer until the meat 
is tender. Allow two hours cook- 
ing for shank or plate beef, and an 
hour and a half for rump or round. 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table 



IS 







WHOLE CHUCK 

The steaks cut from the chuck are juicy and well flavored. The lower part of the shoulder 
has little bone; but the meat is very fat. The distribution of fat and bone gives good 
results in stewing. Pot roast, stews, casserole dishes, and spiced beef may all be made from 
chuck beef. It is sometime corned also. Care must be taken when bones are cut away, 
that any small bits are removed before cooking. The neck makes good mince meat; 
or it can be served as a brown stew. It is also exceedingly good if strips of salt 
pork are run through the meat for flavor and richness. Chuck combines well with spaghetti 
or macaroni since the rich gravy supplies what the pastes lack. If the meat has been cut 
up before cooking, the gravy will be better, and the -serving can be done to better ad- 
vantage. 



CHUCK STEAK WITH ONIONS 
— For a two-pound .steak, slice five 
or six onions — in water to avoid 
tears, arid drain thoroughly. Place 
the onions in a shallow aluminum 
saucepan, cover clo.sely and cook 
over a slow fire for fifteen or twenty 
minutes, until they are tender. Use 
no water or fat, as the onions con- 
tain both moisture and richness. 
When the onions are done, uncover 
them and let them brown slightly 
if preferred, but they are more 
digestible without browning. Heat 
a frying pan smoking hot, and 
brown the steak quickly on both 
sides; reduce the heat and turn the 
meat frequently until it is cooked 
through. Season the steak and 
salt the onions. Serve the meat on 
a platter with the onions around it. 
Add butter or oleomargarine if 
desired. 

POT ROAST WITH VEGE- 
TABLES — If the meat is not in a 
solid piece, skewer or tie it into 
shape, wipe it with damp cheese- 
cloth, and roll in flour. For three 
to four pounds of beef, prepare a 
cupful each of cut carrots, onions 
and celery or turnips. Boil these in 
enough .salted water to barely cover, 
until soft, then rub through a 
coar.se strainer or puree sieve. Heat 
three tablespoons of fat (preferably 
from salt pork) in a frying pan 
or Dutch oven — put in the meat 
and brown on all sides. If the 
frying pan is used, transfer the 



meat after it is brown, to a casserole 
or kettle, unless the pan is deep 
enough to hold the beef. Pour the 
vegetables and their liquid over the 
meat, together with any preferred 
seasoning. Cover tightly and let 
simmer slowly for four or five hours, 
turning twice. Thicken the gravy 
a little, season as desired, and pour 
over the meat. Parboiled potatoes 
may be added at the last. 

BEEF STEAK PIE— Cut a chuck 
.steak into narrow strips, place in a 
kettle with enough boiling water to 
cover, and let it simmer for half an 
hour. Tie in a square of cloth: a 
bit of garlic, half a bay leaf, and an 
onion stuffed with two cloves, a 
sprig of parsley, six peppercorns 
Add this together with salt to the 
meat, and thicken the stock (allow 
three tablespoons of corn starch 
to a pint of liquid.) Place the 
kettle on an asbestos mat to keep 
sauce from sticking. Add a cup of 
sliced carrots, four halved potatoes 
and a cup of celery cut into strips 
(all parboiled). Some dried mush- 
rooms soaked and drained, improve 
the flavor. Simmer while making 
the pastry. Then remove the bag 
of seasoning — put all in a baking 
dish with a rolled crust over the 
top and sides. Brush with milk 
and bake forty minutes, cover- 
ing it with heavy paper as soon as 
it is brown. The same ingredients 
may be cooked in a casserole with- 
out the crust. 



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PLATE— BRISKET END 

The brisket gives the streak of lean and streak of fat that the epicure demands in fine 
corned beef. Smoked brisket is excellent. As the texture of brisket is closer than that 
of the navel end, the brisket takes longer to cook. Fresh boiled brisket is good, hot. 
cold, or warmed over — in fact it deserves more attention than it usually gets. It can be 
boned and a good stock made from the bone, with the addition of seasoning The solid 
meat can be braised with salt pork for flavor, with stock for moisture, and vegetables. 
Several hours are needed to prepare this dish The vegetables should be added when the 
meat is partly done. The brisket can be sliced, pounded in flour, browned in drippings, 
and stewed in stock with potatoes and parsnips in acasserole. These "One Piece Dinners" 
are economical, since they save labor, fuel and service. 



BEEF BRISKET, boiled and 
browned — If the piece has a large 
amount of bone, some of this may 
be removed to use for soup stock, 
or to furnish gravy to be used with 
the warmed over meat for a second 
service. Cook the solid part of the 
meat until tender, with a little celery 
salt and a bit of garlic added, 
turning it once during the cooking, 
which will take from four to six 
hours according to the amount of 
meat used. Remove meat from 
liquor and place it in a shallow pan 
with the skin side up and score 
across the top several times. Have 
boiled potatoes in readiness (either 
hot or cold) and drop them into the 
kettle to take up a little of the fat, 
then place them around meat and 
brown all in a hot oven for about 
twenty minutes. Make a gravy 
with the remaining liquor and serve 
it separately. The meat will slice 
as firmly as cheese, and be tender 
and appetizing. 

BRAISED BEEF— Cut the meat 
into cubes and brown in frying pan 
with rendered beef suet or drip- 
pings. Use strong heat — stir meat 
so i^ will coat quickly and not lose 
its juice. Tender cuts can be 
cooked whole. Remove the pieces 
to a closely covered kettle or 
casserole that can be used on top 
of range (unless the oven is heated 
for other cooking). Rinse the pan 
with a quarter of a cup of boiling 
water to save all browned bits, and 



pour over meat. Cover tightly and 
cook slowly for two hours. Chop one 
onion, one carrot and a few sprigs 
of parsley, and cook five minutes in 
two tablespoons of butter; add half 
a cup of diced celery and a cup of 
chopped tomatoes. When heated 
thoroughly, season with salt and 
paprika and pour over meat. Con- 
tinue the cooking for another hour 
and serve meat with the vegetables 
and boiled rice or grits as a side dish. 

BRISKET WITH ONION SAUCE 
— Wipe the meat with a damp cloth, 
and tie it into a compact shape with 
strips of cloth. Place it in a deep 
kettle with boiling water (or part of 
the stock if possible). Add a soup 
bunch, several cloves and pepper- 
corns. Simmer until tender, add 
salt when partly cooked. Take the 
meat from the liquid, remove the 
cloth, and place the meat in a shal- 
low baking dish. Beat one egg and 
spread over the beef, then sprinkle 
with coarse crumbs, and brown 
under a flame or in a hot oven. 
For sauce — for a three pound piece 
of meat — cut up half a cup of green 
onions and cook these with two 
tablespoons of oleomargarine. 
Brown slightly. Stir in two table- 
sp)oons of flour, add a cup and one- 
half from the stock of brisket, and 
a tablespoon of minced parsley. 
Keep the sauce over hot water, or 
in a double boiler, until the meat is 
finished. Pour the sauce over the 
meat and serve. 



m. M^ M 



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FLANK STEAK 



The steak taken from the inside of the flank is quite juicy; but the fibre is long and coarse. 
Score each side with a sharp knife at close intervals in the same manner that the butcher 
does, to cut the tough particles. This scoring can also be done by special devices made 
for this purpxjse. A thick steak may be pan-broiled or baked quickly in a hot oven with 
good results. Butter, bacon or a savory sauce improve the dish If the thick steak 
is too large, the butcher will sell half of it, or the whole steak may be bought and divided 
before cooking to allow for a second service Flank steak is not as desirable meat to 
warm over as some other cuts, so that the extra piece of steak should be baked or steamed 
and then browned with vegetables or a spicy sauce. It makes a good stufiTed roll, as being 
boneless it is easily manipulated and slices to advantage. 



FLANK STEAK, baked— Score 
the steak and then place on a 
shallow greased pan (use enamel or 
earthenware if tomato is to be added 
for seasoning). Season the meat 
slightly, cover it with a thick slice 
of parboiled potatoes, then a 
layer of sliced onion, and then a 
layer consisting of a little minced 
parsley, green pepper and tomato 
— raw or canned. On this top 
layer, spread meat drippings or 
chopped bacon. Season and 
sprinkle with flour. Place in a hot 
oven and after ten minutes, add 
a cup of boiling x/ater and reduce 
the heat. Baste the meat several 
times during the cooking, which 
should take about one and a half 
hours in all. 

SCOTCH ROLL— Make a mix- 
ture consisting of half a tablespoon 
each of salt and sugar, one-fourth 
of a teaspoon of summer savory, 
a little pepper and ground cloves 
and one-fourth of a cup of vinegar. 
Rub this mixture in thoroughly, 
then roll up the meat into com- 
pact shape, secure it with twine 
or skewers, and let it stand over 
night. Simmer in boiling water 
for three or four hours, thicken 
the liquid with browned flour 
and fat and serve. 

FLANK STEAK, pan broiled — 
Put into a hot frying pan. Do not 
add any fat. Cook quickly at first, 
turning the steak as soon as it is 
browned, then reduce the heat 



and cook from five to ten minutes. 
The result is a juicy, palatable 
piece of meat. Place the meat on a 
platter. Put two or three table- 
spoons of water and a little beef 
drippings into the pan, bring to 
a boil and pour over the meat. 
Add pepper and salt to season. 

STUFFED FLANK — Make a 
pocket in a thick flank steak to 
hold the dressing, or if the meat is 
thin, fold one-half over the other 
and skewer together, after it has 
been filled. To make the dressing 
crumble one pint of bread, 
soften it with cold water and drain 
well after it is moist throughout. 
Season the crumbs with salt and 
pepper, onion salt and celery salt, 
a little poultry seasoning and two 
tablespoons of drippings. Pack 
the dressing closely into the meat, 
pat it into shape and bake for 
one hour in a covered roaster, or 
for an hour and a quarter in an 
open pan. In the latter case it is 
necessary to baste several times. 
A few slices of bacon placed on 
the top of the meat ten minutes 
before serving, improves the dish. 

FLANK ROLLS— Cut flarfk steak 
the length of the meat into inch 
strips and pound to uniform 
thickness. Spread with bread 
dressing, minced onion and a bit of 
bacon. Roll up each strip care- 
fully and skewer into shape. 
Cover them with flour and brown 
quickly in a little fat ; then add 
flour and a pint of water to the 
fat and simmer for an hour or more 
until tender. Remove skewers, 
strain gravy and serve. 



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SHANK 



Over one-third of the fore shank consists of bone, and the amount of fat is very small, 
so soup making is the logical use for this cut of meat. A solid piece of meat is first cut 
off from the top for Hamburg Steak or stewing. Bones and trimmings should then be 
cooked an hour or more before adding the browned meat, if the full flavor is to be 
obtained. Vegetables may be added during the last hour, and rice, dumplings, split 
biscuits or crust added at the time of serving, if the full meal in one dish is desired. For 
variety in flavoring, crisp salt pork, some dry grated cheese, or a little curry, may be 
mixed with the flour used in thickening, and will prove an agreeable addition. If there 
is more than enough meat for one meal, it would be well to sort over the pieces before 
serving, reserving the best pieces to use whole, and the balance for hash meat or some 
similar use. 

The hind shank contains valuable flavoring matter and the large amount of bone makes 
it desirable for use in the preparation of soup. The proportion of lean varies. From 
the top part a good pot roast may be prepared. The middle cut is the most economical. 
The shank meat averages high in protein and is good stewed and served with noodles or 
hominy grits Beef tea and beef extract are made from the shank. The former is of 
known value in the sick room; the latter is a great convenience in cooking. Beef tea 
as a food has been greatly overrated however. It has stimulating properties and is an 
aid to digestion but the strong meaty taste is deceptive. All of the flavor and much of the 
fat is extracted from meat in the proper preparation of soup but food value still remains 
in the solid portion of meat even though it may have lost half its weight through continued 
cooking. 



CHOPPED BEEF— The meat 
should not be ground until it is to 
be used, as ground meat spoils 
quicker than a solid piece. Chop- 
ped beef in the form of meat 
loaf, or steak, takes longer to cook 
than a solid piece of meat, and in 
serving cools more quickly. It 
may be run through the grinder two 
or three times, to vary the flavor 
and consistency. 

The meat needs fat and it is 
cheaper to grind fat in with the 
lean, than to add other shortening 
later. The strip of fat on the side 
of the shank may be fastened 
around the Hamburg before cook- 
ing. Meat should be shaped as 
thick at the edges as in the middle, 
so as to secure uniform results. 
Sour cream may be mixed with the 
lean meat before cooking if desired. 
A meat roll, if wrapped in oiled 
paper, retains its moisture. It is 
necessary to baste the wrapped 
loaf with fat and hot water to 
prevent the paper from bursting. 

SPICED BEEF. Short Method— 
A thick piece from the solid part of 
the shank is covered with diluted 
vinegar, seasoned with pickled 



spices. Let this stand for several 
hours. It is then brought slowly 
to a boil and the spices removed, a 
teaspoorf each of sugar and salt 
added and the meat simmered until 
it is tender. Half an hour before 
it is time for serving, make the 
following savory tomato sauce: 

Rub a piece of garlic over the frying 
pan, put in two tablespoons of lard 
(or olive oil if preferred) — then add 
a sprig of parsley, one celery stalk, 
cut fine, half a bay leaf, a bit of 
mace, a scant teaspoonful of salt, 
a finely cut green pepper, two 
cloves, a sliced onion and six cut 
tomatoes (or the equivalent in 
canned tomato). This sauce should 
be cooked until it is reduced, which 
will probably require about twenty 
minutes, then rubbed through a 
coarse strainer to remove the pulp. 
Drain off the liquid, place the meat 
on a serving dish and pour the 
sauce over it. 

BEEF BALLS WITH DUMP- 
LINGS — To a cup and a half of 
beef, put twice through a food 
chopper, add a third of a cup of 
bread crumbs, salt, popper, a tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice, a little 



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nutmeg and a beaten egg. Shape 
into balls lightly, and let them 
stand for half an hour or more to 
become firm, then roll them in flour 
and brown in the frying pan with 
three tablespoons of lard or some 
salt and pork fat. Then add a 
tablespoon of flour to the remaining 
fat and a cup of stock (or water 
and beef extract). Season well, add 
this mixture to the meat balls and 
simmer in a closely covered dish 
for an hour and a half. 

DUMPLINGS — Use three tea- 
spoonfuls of baking powder to a 
cup of flour with a little salt and 
milk added — to make a soft dough. 
Steam the dumplings over boiling 
water. Drop spoonfuls of the 
dough on a greased perforated pie 
pan and cook 15 minutes without 
uncovering. A teaspoonful of the 
cooked marrow taken from the 
bone used in making meat stock 
and placed on top of the dumplings 
before steaming, improves them. 

SERVICE — The same materials 
will not yield both a rich broth and 
a juicy well flavored meat at the 
same time. Some form of fat, 
vegetables or seasoning to soup 
meat, produce a savory dish. 
Thus a well made soup, with 
croutons, serves one purpose, and 
the meat (with its deficiencies sup- 
plied) serves another. Left-over 
soup meat may be ground fine and 
seasoned to form potted meat for 
a luncheon or for use in sandwiches. 
It keeps for several days if packed 
solid in a jar and covered with 
melted fat to exclude the air. Excel- 
lent meat balls may be made from 
minced soup meat or it may be 
spiced, pressed in a mold and 
served cold. 

SOUP MAKING— Wipe the soup 
shank with a damp cloth, crack the 
bones and cut the meat into pieces. 
Place bones, meat, fat and marrow 
in a large kettle, which has a tight 
fitting cover. Add cold water in the 
proportion of a pint to each pound of 
material, if you desire rich stock, 
and a quart per pound if you desire 
light stock. Let it stand for one-half 



hour, then heat very slowly to the 
bubbling point, and add salt. Other 
seasonings may be tied in a cloth and 
left for an hour or two in the stock. 
Vegetables should not be cooked too 
long with the soup stock, as over 
cooking develops a rank flavor. 
If clean materials are used, no skim- 
ming is needed; since this makes 
clear soup, but takes away some of 
the nourishment. The soup should 
simmer from four to ten hours ac- 
cording to ingredients used, and 
the strength desired. Fuel cost is 
small if the gas flame is kept at its 
lowest point. The vegetables should 
be removed, unless the soup is to be 
served at once. Quick cooling aids 
in preserving the quality. The fat 
which forms on top should not be 
removed until the stock is to be used, 
as the solid cake of fat acts as a 
preservative. In warm weather 
stock should not be kept over 
twenty-four hours; in cold weather 
it can be kept for several days. 
If the stock is to be used immediate- 
ly, all fat should be removed. The 
fat that cannot be taken off 
with a spoon may be absorbed by 
blotting paper or a soft cloth. 
Greasy soup is exceedingly unpal- 
atable. The bright color in a good 
brown soup is obtained by browning 
part of the meat before adding it 
to the stock. 

BEEF SALAD— Boiled beef in 
salad form is often served for supper 
in warm weather. Soup meat will 
answer excellently for this purpose 
since the dressing gives it character 
and richness. The meat should be 
cut into cubes (not chopped) and 
seasoned with salt, pepper and 
mustard, which have been well 
blended with onion juice and 
moistened with a little beef stock. 
A mixture of lemon juice or vinegar 
and double the quantity of oil or 
thick cream will complete the 
flavoring. The whole dish should 
stand for an hour or more after the 
seasonings are added. Surround 
the meat with quartered tomatoes, 
cut celery, or cucumbers. Add a 
sprinkling of capers or mixed 
parsley, if desired. 



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THE RUMP 

The beef rump consists of about one-third fat and one-half lean meat. The rump requires 
considerable trimming which increases the actual cost of the meat. As beef is cut in the 
east, the tip of the rump is an economical large roast and the middle cut of six or seven 
pounds is good. In western cuts, the rump is generally corned. It may be braised 
with vegetables in a covered roaster. After the initial browning it should be simmered at 
a very low temperature for an hour and a half for each pound of meat. The tough fibre 
may be broken up by pxjunding. Pounding in the old fashioned way meant lost juices; 
but when we pound in flour we accomplish the same purpose and save the juice. The 
flavor of the meat is improved by a stock made from bones and trimmings and the use of 
spices and vinegar makes the meat more tender and also improves its flavor. 



SMOTHERED BEEF— Take a 

solid piece of meat from the clod or 
the rump and dredge with flour, 
salt and pepper. Then brown well 
in a heavy pan. For a three- 
pound slice of meat, cut three large 
onions into slices and brown them 
lightly in three tablespoons of oil. 
If oil is not available, drippings may 
be used. Add a little salt and two 
tablespoons of mild prepared mus- 
tard to the onions ; place the sauce 
over the meat together with a tea- 
spoon of celery seed and a cupful 
of strained tomatoes, or half a can 
of tomato soup. Cook slowly for 
three hours or more on top of a stove 
or for six hours in a fireless cooker. 
BEEFSTEAK AND KIDNEY 
PUDDING— Cut one pound of 
beef into inch cubes. Wash a beef 
kidney thoroughly — remove all the 
membrane and cut it into eight 
pieces. Add this to the beef and 
roll all the meat in seasoned flour. 
For the crust use three cups of 
flour, two teaspoons of baking 
powder, a little salt and three- 
fourths of a cup of beef suet 
chopp>ed fine and free from skin 
and shreds. Mix to stiff paste with 
cold water. Roll the crust out 
thicker than pie crust, line the 
bottom of a bowl or baker with it. 
Put in the meat, season with onion 
juice and add water to within two 
inches of the top. Moisten the 
edge of the crust, cover the dish 
with the rest of the paste and press 
well together. Wring out a large 



cloth in boiling water, flour it, 
place it over the top and tie it 
down. Set the pudding on a trivet 
in boiling water or cook in a steamer 
for two hours and a half. Remove 
the cloth and cut a hole in the crust 
before serving. 

BEEF A LA MODE— Allow 
half a pound of firm fat salt pork 
for a compact chuck or rump roast 
of about five pounds. Cut the 
pork into small strips and roll in a 
mixture of one teaspxxjnful each of 
ground cloves, allspice, cinnamon, 
black pepper, summer savory, 
thyme and salt. Make deep cuts 
in the beef with a sharp knife, and 
force the strips of pork into the 
cuts or else run the pork in with a 
larding needle. Cover the surface 
of the meat with the balance of 
the spices and place it in a deep 
earthen dish. To one and one-half 
cups of vinegar, add two bay 
leaves, a bit of mace, some chopped 
parsley and onion — scald — and 
when cool, pour this sauce over the 
meat which should then be tightly 
covered and set aside in a cool 
place. It should be turned morning 
and night for several days and then 
boiling water added to barely 
cover. Let it simmer for four 
hours or more. The liquid may 
then be thickened and strained 
and served with the meat which 
will be very dark in app>earance 
but most savory in flavor. Potato 

Cancakes are usually served with 
eef a la mode. 



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THE ROUND 



The round consists of about two-thirds lean meat and one-sixth bone. 1 1 is popular because 
it is juicy and free from fat and has a somewhat larger amount than have some of the 
other cuts. The top of the round (or inside) can be used for steak and roast; the 
bottom (or outside) is lower in price and is best utilized either chopped or for slow cook- 
ing. It makes inferior steak but is a good meat for a pot roast or for cooking in a cas- 
serole. It is sometimes corned. The round makes the best flavored beef tea. The house- 
wife exercises economy in buying a thick slice cut across the round — particularly in 
cold weather. A large thin steak loses more juice in cooking than a small thick one. 
The latter ma;' not look sufficient, but if it is equal in weight, it will serve as well. If 
the thick round is large, it will do for two services. A two-inch cut from the top of a 
round of fine beef can be broiled and sliced like a roast. 



ROUND STEAK, browned — 
Round steaks are usually pan- 
broiled. The pan must be very 
hot and the cooking done quickly 
to retain the juices. The meat 
should not be seasoned until after 
it is cooked. No fat should be 
added to the pan, but the addition 
of a little butter to the finished 
meat improves its flavor. Prompt 
serving is most important with 
round steak as it toughens by 
standing even for a few minutes. 
Round steak is sometimes cut in 
thin pieces, dipped in milk, then 
rolled in crumbs and fried in beef fat. 
An economical method of preparing 
round steak is to pound flour into 
it, then brown in clrippings and add 
onion and soup stock or strained 
tomato, put a light cover over the 
steak and simmer for forty or fifty 
minutes. If soup stock is not at 
hand, water flavored with beef 
extract and catsup can be used. 
An excellent substitute for breaded 
veal can be prepared from the 
round, which should be thoroughly 
pounded, dipped in egg and sea- 
soned crumbs, browned well in fat 
and then simmered in stock or 
milk until it is tender. 

HAMBURG STEAK — The 

round — in chopped form — is best 
known as Hamburg Steak. Ham- 
burg steak may be broiled with 
direct heat or else pan-broiled. It 
can be shaped into cutlets and 
breaded and fried in beef fat, but 
the shape must be small to insure 



sufficient cooking and deep frying 
is not to be encouraged at the 
present time from the fat conserva- 
tion standpoint. It can also be 
blended with cooked rice or hom- 
iny, or else rolled in melted butter 
with either corn or rice flakes and 
baked quickly. Croquettes cooked 
in this way are preferred by those 
who cannot eat fried dishes. 
Hamburg steak may be served with 
a variety of sauces; a brown sauce 
made separately — or a white sauce 
flavored with beef extract — or a to- 
mato sauce — or a sauce of milk and 
soft bread, highly flavored with 
horseradish; another desirable 
sauce is Lemon Butter, which is 
made by creaming a little oleo- 
margarine and flavoring it with 
grated onion, minced parsley, salt, 
pepper and lemon juice. 

BEEF ROLLS— To make little 
beef rolls, round steak is cut into 
strips and well pounded. Bacon, 
onion or olives and other seasonings 
may be added if desired. The 
beef rolls are held in shape with 
tooth picks, floured, browned and 
stewed until tender. They are also 
served acceptably with brown rice. 
The round can be stuffed and baked. 
It is often used for pot roast or 
Swiss steak. More different dishes 
can probably be made from the 
round than from any other cut. 
The so-called Minute Steak of 
public restaurants is a very thin 
round steak quickly cooked and 
served piping hot. 



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BONELESS CUTS 



The six cuts shown on the following pages are taken from Al beef, and, because they 

are practically boneless, bring high prices. One can get the same cuts from beef of lighter 

weight at a more reasonable cost. The meat, because it is tender, is easily cooked, and 

there is no waste. These cuts combine economy and good eating. 

The restaurants have for a long time adopted the wise practice of utilizing this meat of 

cheaper quality The cuts lack fat, which may be added in the cookmg, but they contain 

food value. The compact cuts prove most useful for the woman whose time is limited, 

and who, therefore, finds it impossible. to give much time to cooking. 

In the Fall, when second or third grade cattle are plentiful, these cuts are packed 

for future use. Because housewives are not familiar with the advantages of these cuts, 

the demand for the fresh meat is not siifficient for the retailers to handle all of it. Butchers 

will carry these cuts if there is a call for them. Women should demand them. 

Frozen meat is fserfectly wholesome, and may be used with safety by any one, provided 

it is used at once. Meat when thawed out spoils very quickly, so the cooking should 

be started as soon as the thawing is done People eat frozen fish half of the year, and 

yet many have an idea that frozen meat is undesirable. 

The Boneless Sirloin Butt makes a good steak or roast. The back of the sirloin with 

the tenderloin removed can be made into a boneless strip for similar use. or for pot roast. 

Tenderloin, sliced and pan broiled, or roasted whole, will supply a popular cut at a low 

price. 




SIRLOIN BUTT 




ROUND POT ROAST 




SPENCER ROLL 



•— nsBOuEf The Wilson Label ProteclsYour Table 




BUIT lENDERLOIN 




BONELESS STRIP 




BONELESS BRISKET 




REGULAR ROLL 



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THE PLATE 

THE plate is a strip which lies underneath the rib section and is 
divided into two portions, the navel and the brisket. The plate 
contains almost as much fat as lean meat, and a small proportion 
of bone. The plate is more available for stews than in a roast, since 
in stewing much of the fat is dissolved into the liquid. For general 
economy, the plate ranks next to the chuck. The ribs which form the 
upper part of the plate have less lean and more bone. 




THE FLANK 

THE flank is attached to the loin of beef. There is practically no 
bone in the flank, but about two-thirds of it is fat. Most of this 
fat is trimmed off for tallow. The lean portion is used for boiled 
meat, and for stew. It is rather coarse in texture, and, as it lacks fla- 
vor, additional ingredients are advisable. 

The flank steak is cut away to be sold by itself. An excellent pxjt pie 
can be made from flank meat, and an excellent covered meat pie may be 
made with the addition of a suet crust. The best way to utilize the meat, 
however, is to bone and roll it, and then put it in brine. This will result 
in excellent corned beef, which will slice to good advantage either hot or 
cold. If it is to be used cold, it is well to place a weight on the meat as 
it cools in the stock. 



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THE RIBS 



The first cut of the upper part of the forequarter consists of seven ribs. The ribs contain 
about one-half lean meat, one-third fat, and one-sixth bone. The prices paid for this 
choice meat does not represent food value as much as it does agreeable eating. 

A large amount of surface, cut across the grain, is exposed in cooking, and this is one 
reason why a small roast is rarely satisfactory, as at least two ribs are needed to retain 
the juices — three are even better. 

The first cut is considered best, and is not too heavy for an average family. The second 
cut is larger and equally good (as shown in the picture). The third and largest cut is not 
quite so choice. The ribs are cut off to about eight or ten inches, leaving what is known 
as "short ribs." which are either boiled, browned, or boned, rolled and baked. The ribs 
are always roasted, inasmuch as much flavor is lost by boning. The fat is used for basting, 
since to add water to a choice roast of beef is a culinary crime. 



,JlOASTING — Roasting is a 
process similar to broiling, the 
only difference being in the cut 
and weight of the meat, and the 
amount of time required. Tough 
meat is not made tender by rapid 
cooking; but roasting is the ideal 
method for a choice tender cut, 
although these cuts are not eco- 
nomical, on account of their high 
first cost. Rolled roasts are 
popular and easily carved. The 
best shape is the standing roast, 
which is not boned, but the bones 
cut short. Boned meat can easily 
be tied or fastened with a skewer. 
Steel skewers are superior to wood, 
on account of the greater ease in 
serving. 

Roasts should be placed on a rack 
to prevent the meat from frying in 
its own fat. Strong heat is 

necessary at the outset as in broil- 
ing, and at least ten full minutes' 
heat of the oven is necessary when 
gas is used. The smaller the 
roast, the stronger should be the 
first heat, so as to prevent the 
juices drying up. Sear each side 
of the roast under a flame, add 



seasoning, and finish cooking at a 
lower temperature on a lower 
slide; or else place in baking oven 
as preferred. Pork and fowl 
require water in roasting, but 
beef or mutton never do unless 
a covered roaster is used. Rare 
meat will be better flavored if 
cooked in an open pan; well done 
roasts may be cooked in a covered 
roaster. 

THE RIBS— A fine roast requires 
attention. There is no danger of 
the meat cooking dry if the heat is 
moderate and basting frequent. 
Lean meat requires additional fat 
(drippings saved from previous 
cooking may be used). Gravy can 
be cooked in the oven at the same 
time — without additional fuel. Add 
to cold water — stock from the bone 
— trimmings and vegetables — to- 
gether with browned fat from the 
roasting pan and flour to thicken. 
Secondary flavors can be extracted 
from roasts or steaks (after serving) 
by stewing the bones for a long 
time. This stock can be intensified 
with vegetables and seasonings, if 
desired. 



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BEEF LOIN 

LOIN contains the fine steaks, and is divided into two portions: the 
short loin, and the loin end. Various steaks take their name ac- 
cording to the bone — the first cuts taken from the rump end have 
the least bone, and the amount of bone increases as the cuts continue. 
TTie steak cut last, the club steak, contains most bone. 

The tenderloin is neither so fine flavored or juicy as the other cuts, but 
brings a high price on account of its tenderness. Salt pork is generally 
added to tenderloin steak in cooking, for additional fat and flavor. Tender- 
loins are not generally taken out of the best grade of meat, as the balance 
would then have to be sold at reduced prices. 





THE SHORT LOIN 



THE short loin is cut into porterhouse and club steaks. When 
the tenderloin is left in the loin, the porterhouse steak may be 
cut from the short end. These steaks are the highest in price, 
and also contain the greatest amount of fat. The flank end of porter- 
house is the poorest of all the steaks, and is sometimes used afterwards for 
hash meats, but it is wiser to cut it off before broiling, and grind it for 
fresh cooking. The sensible plan is to buy a piece of round steak to 
add to this flank end, for the next meal, so that it may be utilized to 
the best advantage. The demand for porterhouse steak is due to richness 
of flavor rather than to wise judgment in buying for food value. 



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THE LOIN END 

HE thick end of the loin contains the various sirloin steaks, such 
as long or flat bone, hip, or pin bone. A sirloin is cheaper and 
better to eat than a tenderloin steak. 



BROILING 

TENDER meat in broiling should be surrounded by fat, or brush- 
ed over with soft fat to avoid dryness. The edges of the meat 
should be cut in several places to prevent curling, as they will 
contract from heat. No seasoning should be used until the meat is part- 
ly cooked. A thick steak is far better eating than a thin one, so that for 
a small family it is better to buy a fair-sized steak and cut it in two por- 
tions and broil at different times, than to choose a thin one for economy. 
it is a mistake to bone a steak before cooking, although it may prove con- 
venient. Remember that "the nearer the bone, the sweeter the meat." 

Intense heat is necessary for broiling. A perfect bed of coals is not easily 
secured, and may interfere with other cooking; hence, broiling by this 
method has not been popular with the housewife. At the present time, 
when gas is almost the universal fuel, broiling has become a practical 
process. The fire should be lighted fully ten minutes before the cooking 
begins, and the broiling pan well heated. The metal rack should be 
removed, because meat sticks to hot wires. The meat is placed near 
the flame at first and turned as soon as seared. Avoid piercing the meat 
with a fork, as this will cause juices to be lost. As soon as each side 
i& brown, reduce the heat and season the meat lightly. If the steak 
should contain too much fat, place the fat part towards the front of 
the oven. 

Leave the lower door of the gas oven open when broiling, to do away 
with smoke and the fumes of cooking. The meat need only be turned 
once or twice, and the time for cooking depends upon the thickness of 
the cut and the family's taste for rare or well-done steak. Place the meat 
on a heated platter, add part of the fat from the pan, and serve .at 
once. The flavor, delicacy and digestibility is far superior to steak 
cooked by any other methods. Even Hamburg steak takes on a new 
dignity when broiled. It should be lightly seasoned (a little onion juice 
helps), and if the meat is moistened with cream the dish will be a treat. 
Shape it lightly so that it will not become dry when cooking. Hamburg 
steak is better if cooked in one large flat cake than if made into small 
ones, and can also be more easily handled by inverting it on a pie pan. 



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M see II a neons 
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SHORT RIBS OF BEEF— Short 
ribs of beef and browned potatoes 
are one of the most popular moder- 
ate priced dishes served in hotels 
and restaurants. Some butchers do 
not sell short ribs. After they have 
prepared their rib roast, they re- 
turn the short ribs to the packer to 
use. Many cooks do not consider 
this cut worth while on account of 
the amount of bone and fat it con- 
tains; but, since the price is low 
enough to offset this bone and fat, 
the dish furnishes food value in a 
very palatable form. The ribs 
should be separated and can be 
cooked in pot roast fashion, with 
or without water, for several hours 
with good results, but the best 
method of cooking is to simmer 
until tender in a small amount of 
water, and brown them afterwards. 
For three ribs, weighing a pound 
and one-half each, allow three cups 
of water and two teaspoons of salt. 
If convenient, tie a little garlic, 
parsley and green pepper in a piece 
of netting and put in the water. 
Simmer for about three hours in a 
tightly covered kettle. The meat 
should be turned at the end of the 
first hour, and the seasoning re- 
moved. It will be necessary 
to simmer longer if the meat 
is not perfectly tender at the end of 
three hours. Potatoes may be par- 
boiled and added to the meat dur- 
ing the last part of the cooking, or 
else boiled potatoes can be used 
after the meat is done. Place the 
meat, well drained, in a shallow 
roasting pan and surround with the 
potatoes. If boiled potatoes are 
used, dip each one in the rich liquid 
to coat them with fat. 
Season with a little salt, and brown 
all in a hot oven for about half an 
hour or over a gas flame for about 
twenty minutes. Remove part of 
the fat from the top of the liquid 
and thicken the balance to make a 
rich, brown gravy. 
QUICK MEAT LOAF — Take 
three-quarters of a pound of round 
or some other solid meat, and run 
it through a meat grinder twice. 
Do not remove the fat that is on 
the meat. Soften enough bread in 
milk to make three-quarters of a 



cup, when well drained. Add a 
beaten egg to the bread and 
seasoning of salt and pepper, 
lemon juice, a little nutmeg and 
onion juice. Add this mixture to 
the meat. The meat is shaped in a 
bowl and sprinkled well with flour. 
Melt a tablesfX)on each of butter 
and oleomargarine in a frying pan, 
put in a sliced onion, cover and cook 
slowly, until the onion is a light 
brown; remove the onion; put the 
meat loaf into the hot pan with 
the floured side down. Cover and 
cook for ten minutes, then sprinkle 
the top with flour, turn carefully, 
and cook for five minutes longer. 
Lift the meat loaf on to a platter 
with a cake turner, place the 
cooked onion on top and p)our 
over the juice remaining in the 
pan. This meat loaf can be served 
either hot or cold. 

BEEF WITH ROLLED OATS 

— Grind together through a meat 
chopper a pound and a half of 
beef, two slices of salt pork (about 
one-eighth of a pound), and a cup 
of rolled oats, or other uncooked 
cereals. Season with a little salt, 
white pepper, celery salt, and 'a 
minced onion; add a beaten 
egg and stock or water to moisten 
slightly. The roll should be stiff 
rather than soft. Dredge with 
flour, brown in a frying pan with 
a little pork fat, and place it in the 
oven and bake for one hour. The 
heat should be moderate and the 
loaf should be basted with hot 
water and butter several times. 

POTTED HOMINY AND BEEF- 

Hominy is excellent to use as part 
of a one-dish dinner if you have a 
fire in your stove so that you can 
cook it for a long time, or use a 
ftrcless cooker. Heat one and one- 
half quarts of water to boiling; add 
one teaspoon of salt and two cups 
of hominy which has been soaked 
over night. Cook in a double boil- 
er for four hours or in the fireless 
cooker over night. This makes 
five cups. This recipe may be in- 
creased and enough cooked in dif- 
ferent ways for several meals. 
Hominy is excellent combined with 
dried, canned or fresh fish, or meat 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table! 

32 



F 




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and vegetable left-overs may be 
used. Here is one combination: 
Two tablespoons fat, two table- 
spoons flour, two cups milk, four 
potatoes, two cups carrots, five 
cups cooked hominy, one-fourth 
pound dried beef, one teaspoon 
salt. Melt the fat, stir in the flour, 
add the cold milk, mix well. Cook 
until it thickens. Cut the potatoes 
and carrots into dice, mix all the 
materials in a baking dish and 
bake for one hour. 
BEEF HEART— The heart from 
good beef furnishes considerable 
food value at a moderate cost. 
It should first be thoroughly 
washed. The arteries and veins 
are then cut out, and the heart 
washed again to free it from blood. 
The heart is usually stuffed to fill 
it out and to improve its shape, 
as well as to extend the service of 
the meat. Bread toast or cracker 
crumbs may be used. Finely cut 
onion and parsley, and a few of 
the savory herbs may be added to 
the bread crumbs if desired. Salt 
and pepper should be used plenti- 
fully for seasoning. Beef fat from 
some other cut may be added to en- 
rich the heart. Add a small amount 
of water (the soft dressing becomes 
softer from moisture during the 
cooking), and put the dressing into 
the opening. The flavor of this 
dressing will be increased if, 
ir»stead of putting the fat into it, it 
is sauted with a little fat. Sew up 
the end of the heart loosely, to 
allow for swelling, and sprinkle 
with seasoned flour. Use either a 
frying pan or an iron kettle and 
brown the heart in pork fat or 
drippings. The cooking can then 
be finished in the kettle with 
the addition of enough water to 
partly cover, or the heart can be 
transferred to a casserole or baking 
dish, water added and the cooking 
completed in the oven. In either 
case the liquid should be slightly 
thickened, and the heart turned 
several times during the cooking. 
The heart must be basted every 
twenty minutes if it is cooked in an 
open baker. Onions, carrots and 
cut celery added to the dish, make 
a pleasing combination. Meat of 
such close texture requires long, 



slow cooking to make it tender. 
If the cooking is right, the result 
will be excellent. 

Left-over beef heart may be sliced 
or minced and served with gravy. 
It can also be served cold in thin 
slices with a meat relish, in which 
case beaten eggs should be added 
to the dressing to hold it intact. 
Good meat loaf may also be made 
from left-over meat heart, by chop- 
ping it up very fine with a little 
cooked bacon or salt pork. It is 
then seasoned well, and mixed with 
an equal amount of boiled rice. It 
should be steamed until heated 
through and then served with a 
savory tomato sauce. It can also 
be chilled and sliced. 
DRY OR SUMMER SAUSAGES 
— a happy compromise between 
fresh and canned meat. Many 
housekeepers are familiar only with 
the pork sausage which is so popular 
on winter mornings. They do not 
know of the newer varieties. Sum- 
mer sausage is always ready for use 
at a moment's notice, and as it is 
concentrated in bulk and highly 
seasoned, it keeps better than any 
meat not canned. Foreign nations 
have long used summer sausage as 
a staple food; but only in recent 
years have many varieties been 
made successfully in this country. 
Summer sausage made under Gov- 
ernment inspection, and carrying 
the brand of a reliable company, 
will .suit particular people. The 
meats are carefully blended and 
skillfully seasoned, and many com- 
binations are offered to suit differ- 
ent tastes. Summer sausage comes 
in convenient form ioY the picnic 
basket, or for the use of campers. 
Summer sausage sliced cold and 
surrounded with a savory potato sal- 
ad, is delicious. It can be light- 
ly chopped and served on toast 
with the addition of a white sauce. 
It is often minced and blended with 
left-overs to add flavor or else 
served sliced and crisped in the 
frying pan with potatoes. A very 
savory omelet can be made by 
the addition of summer sausage 
chopped fine. A delicious sand- 
wich can be made by mixing 
chopped summer sausage with but- 



The Wdson Label Protects Your Table! 




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ter and spreading it on crackers. 
A plain lettuce salad with a little 
summer sausage mixed with the 
dressing takes on new character. 
Cabbage and potato salad with bits 
of sausage added have a perfect 
right to put on airs, for they are 
the "something different" which 
every housewife likes to serve. The 
emergency shelf is never completely 
stocked unless it contains one or 
two varieties of dried sausage. 

BEEF SWEETBREADS — The 

sweetbread of the calf is an ex- 
pensive delicacy. The beef sweet- 
bread is moderate in price, and if 
cooked carefully may be utilized 
for many choice dishes. The beef 
sweetbread should be washed as 
soon as it is brought into the house, 
and soaked in cold water for an 
hour or more. It may then be 
simmered until tender, with the 
addition of salt, a little bay leaf, a 
little onion and a slice of lemon. 
It may also be steamed, in which 
case the seasoning is placed on top 
of the sweetbread. As soon as the 
sweetbread has become tender it is 
placed in cold water, so that it will 
chill and become firm. Prelimi- 
nary simmering is always necessary, 
no matter what methods of final 
cooking are used. Sweetbreads 
must always be carefully handled 
to completely remove the mem- 
brane and all unsightly portions. 
Sweetbreads may be separated into 
sections, shredded and fried in beef 
fat, and then served with any sauce 
preferred, either white, brown, to- 
mato, or combination. 
Popular and delicious salad is made 
by substituting sweetbread for 
chicken, and serving with the usual 
dressings, either celery, hard-boiled 
eggs, lettuce and mayonnaise or 
other dressings. Sweetbreads are 
particularly delicious served in 
scooped-out, chilled tomatoes, and 
in the season when tomatoes are 
plentiful, this dish is not expensive. 
Sweetbreads make a fine luncheon 
dish if served in combination with 
peas and with the addition of a 
creamy sauce. They may also be 
served in a border of boiled rice, 
mashed potatoes, or with small hot 



biscuits Sweetbreads answer in 
place of veal in any made dish. 
as their delicate flavor lends itself 
well to various seasonings and 
sauces. It is better to cut sweet- 
breads up fine with a sharp knife 
than to chop them, owing to their 
consistency. 

BRAISED SWEETBREADS-Cut 

the sweetbreads into sections. 
Place them in a shallow baking 
dish. Then place strips of salt 
pork on top of the sweetbreads and 
surround them with slices of young 
carrots (or old ones cooked), a 
diced onion, and some peas or 
parboiled green beans. Pour a 
cup and one-half of well-seasoned 
beef stock over the sweetbreads, 
and bake in a moderately hot oven, 
until the vegetables are done and 
the meat well browned. Drain off 
the stock into a sauce pan, and 
thicken it with two tablespoons each 
of butter and flour browned to- 
gether. Strain the sauce well, and 
pour over the sweetbreads and serve 
at once. 

DRIED BEEF— Dried beef in 
glass is another form of meat for 
occasional use. The salty flavor 
offers a change. [Dried beef re- 
quires no cooking, and is always 
ready for the picnic basket or for 
the regular luncheon. It is accept- 
able for the home table either served 
cold or in a creamed sauce, with 
potatoes or other vegetables. Dry- 
ing renders the flesh quite dense, so 
strong heat must be avoided in 
cooking dried beef. Simple methods 
are best. An easy and palatable 
dish is prepared by first melting 
two tablespoons of oleomargarine 
in a saucepan, and heating a 
cupful of meat in it. Two table- 
spoons of flour are then stirred 
in carefully and a cup of water or 
light stock added. When the sauce 
is smooth, season with pepper and 
serve at once on toast or with pota- 
toes. A beaten egg blended with a 
tablespoon of milk, and added at 
the last, improves the consistency 
and increases the food value. An- 
other method of using dried beef 
is to place it in a strainer, and steam 
it over boiling water (or else pour 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table] 



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SHiscollaneous 

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boiling water over it and drain) , 
add a white sauce with a milk 
foundation, and serve. As dried 
beef is more concentrated than 
fresh beef, it is used in smaller 
quantities and less frequently, but 
in emergencies it is distinctly valu- 
able. 

BEEF TONGUE IN CASSEROLE 
— Wash a fresh beef tongue quickly, 
cover it with boiling salted water, 
cook gently for about an hour and 
a half or until tender. Remove all 
the skin and unsightly portions, 
(the bits of meat can be used later 
for hash) place in a casserole with 
a cupful of sliced carrots to which 
is added minced onion, celery and 
parsley. Thicken stock enough to 
cover the vegetables with fat and 
flour, season well and place the dish 
in a moderate oven. Remove the 
cover of the casserole after an 
hours cooking and allow a half 
hour longer so that the meat will 
brown slightly. Some like a sour 
sauce served with tongue. TTiis 
can be made by adding two 
tablespoons each of vinegar and 
chopped pickle to the dish or 
horseradish can be used for variety. 
OXTAIL SOUP — Separate the 
joints of two oxtails — wash care- 
fully. (Ihe larger p>ortions may 
be reserved for braising.) Put in 
a soup kettle, cover with cold 
water and heat slowly to the 
bubbling p)oint. Simmer for one 
hour. Then add two carrots, two 
white turnips and an onion, all 
sliced. Tie together in a bit of 
netting, a sprig of parsley, 
a bit of garlic, a small bay leaf and 
six peppercorns and place in the 
stock. Add enough salt to season. 
When the meat is quite tender, 
remove it from the stock and take 
out all the bone. Remove the 
seasoning and then put the meat 
back into the kettle and add a cup 
of tomato puree which is made 
either from canned soup or from 
fresh tomato cooked down and 
strained. Add a little caramel of 
coloring also. Thicken with a little 
arrowroot or rice flour. Noodles 
can be added if desired. This 
meat and vegetable soup makes 
a hearty dish. 



COLD MEATS GLAZED — 

Meats that have been cooked 
specially to serve cold — such as 
boiled tongue, braised corn beef, 
etc., may be enhanced for service 
by a thick jellied coating. This 
coating differs from jellied stock 
since the basis is a sauce such as 
brown, tomato or white sauce — 
enriched with egg yolks. To each 
cupful of this hot mixture, add a 
tablespoon of granulated gelatine 
softened in cold water. Meat 
should be covered thickly as the 
sauce stiffens. Bits of parsley, 
green peppers or pimento strips 
may be added for a garnish. With 
a little practice, attractive dishes 
for company occasions can easily be 
prepared. 

JELLIED SOUP— Rich beef or 
other soup stock may be chilled 
and served cold for special occa- 
sions in summer. The stock is 
cleared with egg to make it attrac- 
tive in appearance. Mix together 
a quart of stock and the shell and 
white of one egg. Apply gradual 
heat and stir constantly until a 
thick scum forms on the top. 
Let the dish stand for a few minutes, 
then strain the soup through a 
napkin or other fine cloth. The 
soup must be made with consider- 
able bone if it is to jelly. If it is 
not firm enough, it can be stiffened 
with gelatine in the proportion of a 
tablespoon of gelatine softened in 
two tablespoons of water for 
each three cups of soup. The 
jellied soup must be rather highly 
seasoned and a small amount of 
caramel coloring will give the 
desired tint to a pale soup. 



We depend largely upon starchy 
foods to increase the use of either 
freshly cooked or reheated meat. 
The potato easily ranks first; the 
pastes in the form of macaroni, 
spaghetti, noodles, and products, 
such as coarse hominy, fine grits and 
cornmeal. are close seconds. Rice, 
either unpxjlished or browned, as 
well as tapioca, can be used in 
many ways. Barley is especially 
suitable served with mutton, 



The Wikon Label Protects Your Table I 




THERE are certain recognized limits in the cooking of 
meat disines for small families, it is strictly out of the 
question to get a choice roast of a weight less than five 
pounds. It is possible to make a pot roast out of a pound of 
meat if it is rightly cooked in a small close-covered kettle. 
Braised meat with vegetables can be satisfactorily prepared 
in small amounts if cooked on a rack in a kettle over a low 
fire, or in a covered roaster in a slow oven. Braised meat is 
richer than stewed meat, as less water is used and the broth 
is more concentrated. No more actual time need be spent 
in the kitchen in the longer, slower processes of cooking meat 
than in the shorter methods; but an earlier start is necessary. 
Unless ample time is allowed for cooking, it is useless to attempt 
such dishes, as the materials will inevitably be wasted, or the 
results poor. 

No matter how slow the main process is in the cooking of 
tough meat, the first few minutes should be at strong heat to 
seal the surface of the meat and retain the juices. 

Boiled meat (it should not really boil but barely simmer) 
goes further if prepared with a generous amount of liquid, 
and the addition of dumplings, biscuits, and strips of toast. 
The common practice of adding water while boiling meat, for 
the reason that the water cooks away, indicates bad fuel man- 
agement. 

Meat cut up for stewing gives a richer gravy than when 
cooked in one piece. It is a good plan to leave one solid piece 
of meat to slice cold, if the supply is sufficient for two meals. 
The cold meat should be left in the stock until it is ready to 
serve, so as to retain the moisture, but any vegetables that 
are in the stock must be removed, or the flavor will be too 
strong. One advantage of slowly cooked meat dishes is that 
prompt service is not as necessary as with roasts, steaks and 
so forth. Tender, red meat deteriorates rapidly if allowed 
to stand after it is ready to eat, and much of the delicious 
flavor is lost. The stew, pot roast, and casserole dishes are 
equally good whether placed on the table at a certain moment 
or not. In fact they can be kept an hour if necessary without 
any harm, provided they are kept hot. It is a great conven- 
ience, when a meal is delayed, to place the kettle over hot (but 
not boiling) water, without having the meal suffer. 

Meat that has been cured in brine, needs longer cooking 
than fresh meat; it is less easily digested, as the action of the 
salt hardens the tissues, so it should not be served frequently, 
and never served to the very young or very old. For variety 
cured meats may be served occasionally, if they are gently 
and thoroughly cooked. 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table 



t'.'jiKj.i.'iMMv.i p:^:^ 



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BULLETINS OF THE UNITED STATES 
DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE 

AMERICAN markets furnish a great variety of food stuffs. 
New fruits and vegetables are constantly being supplied 
through the help of the Government. It is worth while 
to try out foods that other countries have found valuable. The 
Government Bulletin tells how to select and use untried 
products, and the retailers are always glad to show a new 
article. You will also find that the Government bulletins 
issued by the Department of Agriculture will give you full 
information on all the staple goods you use in your homes. 
It is a pity that these bulletins, which cost so little, are not in 
use in every home. They treat of almost every subject per- 
taining to the home in a clear, concise manner. These bulletins 
contain a fund of practical knowledge, worked out by trained, 
scientific experts. This knowledge is presented in terms easily 
understood. 

The list of the numerous Government publications, together 
with their price, can be secured by writing to the Department 
of Agriculture at Washington. Many of these bulletins are 
free; for others, a small charge is- made. 

We are indebted to the Department of Agriculture for 
much of the information contained in this booklet. 

The Department of Agriculture has published a great number of 
bulletins, free to the public as long as the first edition lasts. A complete 
list will be sent to anyone who writes the department at Washington 
Any bulletin not procurable through free distribution may be obtained at 
a cost of five or ten cents from the Supt. of Documents, Government 
Printing Office, Washington, D. C. 

Following is a partial list of practical pamphlets for the housewife. 
Numbers below five hundred are mostly exhausted in the free list. 

Bread and Bread Making in the home No. 807 

Cheese and its economical uses in diet ,, 487 

Eggs and their uses as Food , 128 

How to select foods : Body Needs ,, 808 

How to select foods : Protein foDds , 824 

Fresh fruits and vegetables , 87 1 

Foods — nutritive value and cost , , 142 

Fats and their economical use in home ,, 4b9 

Care of Food in the home ,, 375 

Food for young children 717 

Fish as Food , 85 

Honey and its uses in the home 653 

Beans, Peas and other legumes ,, 121 

Meats: Composition and Cooking ,, 34 

Mutton and its value in diet ,, 52b 

Milk as food „ 74 

Potatoes, sweet potatoes, etc , 4b8 

Poultry as Food ,, 1 82 

Sugar as Food ,, 93 

Preparation of Vegetables 25b 

1 The Wilson Label Protects Your Table I 



37 




MUTTON AND LAMB CUTS 

The meat should be of a deep red color and fiim to the touch — the fat 
creamy, white and solid. 

1 LEG Roasts 

2 LOIN. _ _ Roasts and Chops 

3 BACK Roasts and Chops 

4 BREAST Roasts and Stews 

5 CHUCK Roasts and Stews 

^ -" The Wilson Label Protects Your Table I 

38 




• a 



d\iuiton 
RecipQs 




THE dividing line between lamb and mutton is not based 
wholly upon age; a well bred and well fed animal, 
twelve or eighteen months old, may still belong in the 
lamb class, while a yearling of rangy stock, which has been 
poorly fed, yields meat of an inferior grade of mutton. 

The best grade of mutton consists of fat, heavy meat. 
Light and flabby meat is not very palatable. Lamb rarely 
is an economical meat to serve. The relative difference in 
food value between lamb and mutton, is the same as be- 
tween veal and beef. 

Mature meat furnishes more nutrition, but has a more pro- 
nounced flavor. Lamb has a delicate taste and the fat is not 
as strong as it is in mutton. 

The consumption of ewe lambs should be discouraged, 
as it adds greatly to the cost of properly aged meat and 
contributes to the scarcity of wool. The mutton flavor, to 
which many object, is largely due to the outside fat, so that 
this fat, together with any particles of heavy skin, should be 
removed before cooking. The meat should be of a deep red 
color and firm to the touch; the fat, creamy, white and solid. 
Mutton absorbs odors easily, so it must be kept in a cool 
place under proper conditions. Mutton may be placed in 
spiced vinegar or in a marinade and kept in it for some time 
to absorb the flavor and to become more tender. 

The forequarter of mutton is cheaper than the hind- 
quarter, as the amount of bone is greater and the flesh is less 
tender; but the forequarter has more flavor and so is excellent 
for stews and soup. As more of the fat of mutton dissolves in 
cooking than does the fat of beef, it is desirable to skim off a 
portion of this fat before serving the stew. 

A shoulder roast, boned, stuffed and rolled, is appetizing 
served hot and the meat will slice well when cold. The ribbed 
chops are dainty, but very expensive. The loin chops serve 
better, as they have a greater amount of meat on them. 

A leg of mutton may be boiled or roasted. The saddle 
from the two sides of the loin furnishes a choice roast for 
special occasions, as does also the crown of lamb, which is 
made from the ribs on each side, cut in the form of a circle. 

Mutton should be served hot in every detail, as mutton 
fat hardens at a higher temperature than other fats. Fat 
usually calls for an acid to add flavor; — hence, the use of 
capers, mint sauce, tart jelly, and spiced fruit with mutton 
or lamb. A bit of garlic inserted in a leg of mutton before 
roasting, improves the flavor. Herbs well rubbed into the 
surface and the whole wrapped in cloth before cooking to retain 
the flavor, produces boiled mutton that is unusual. 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table S 



39 




PIGKLED lamb tongues are popular served cold, and 
the tongues, boiled and baked, and served with a sauce, 
are delicate and savory. The kidneys are broiled with 
bacon, en brochette (sliced and strung on a skewer before 
broiling), or else they can be stewed with onions and carrots 
in the English fashion. The heart may be stuffed, boiled 
and browned with salt pork. The liver is usually fried in 
the same manner as calf's liver. The brains are sometimes 
substituted for calf's brains in made dishes, or else they are 
scrambled with eggs or they may be breaded and fried, it 
is best to simmer or steam the brains first to make them 
tender. The addition of a little lemon juice will whiten 
them and make them firm. 



MUTTON IN CASSEROLE— 

Wipe the meat with a damp cloth — 
cut it in uniform pieces, and roll in 
seasoned flour. Brown part of the 
meat in hot drippings, then place 
all the meat in a casserole (or a 
kettle if it is to be cooked on the 
range instead of in the oven). Add 
carrots, onion and parsley, and 
cover with cold water if a rich 
broth is desired. Cook very slowly 
until the meat is quite tender. Re- 
move the bone, which will, slip 
easily from the meat when the cook- 
irig is finished. Drain the liquid 
off and thicken with flour. Pour 
the sauce back over the meat and 
serve piping hot. Dumplings may 
be added, or potatoes put in with 
the meat when it is partly cooked. 

STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON — 
Prepare the following dressing: 
Take two cups of soft bread, which 
has been soaked in cold water untvl 
well moistened, and then all the 
possible liquid pressed out. Season 
the bread with salt and pepper. 
Add a little thyme or sweet mar- 
joram, together with a little onion, 
some fat and a beaten egg. Place 
this dressing in the boned beef, 
skewering the ends into shape. 
Have the oven very hot and place 
the meat in a pan. When the sur- 
face is seared, reduce the heat, 
dredge the meat lightly with flour, 
and add any other left-over season- 
ing, and baste every fifteen minutes 
unless a covered roasting pan is 
used. A six-pound roast will re- 
quire from orae hour and a half to 
two hours. 




BROWNED BREAST OF MUT- 
TON — Cook the meat in a small 
quantity of water until very tender, 
seasoning it with salt and pepper, a 
little garlic and parsley. Drain the 
meat well, put it into a shallow pan 
or baking dish and brown in a hot 
oven. Make a thickened gravy 
from the stock, coloring it with a 
little prepared caramel if desired. 
Serve meat with boiled rice and the 
gravy. Carrots may be boiled with 
the meat and browned afterwards 
with a little sugar and meat drip- 
ping if desired. 

HOT POT OF MUTTON AND 
BARLEY — One pound mutton, one- 
half cup pearl barley, one table- 
spoon salt, four potatoes, three 
onions, celery tops or other sea- 
soning herbs. Cut the mutton in 
small pieces, and brown with the 
onion in fat cut from meat. This 
will help make the meat tender and 
improves the flavor. Pour this in- 
to a covered saucepan. Add two 
quarts water and the barley. Sim- 
mer for one and one-half hours. 
Then add the potatoes cut in quar- 
ters, seasoning herbs, and seasoning, 
and cook one-half hour longer. 

MUTTON STEW WITH BAR- 
LEY — Cut meat from the neck or 
breast into small pieces and put 
into a kettle with enough water to 
cover. Use about a cup and a 
half of water to a p>ound of meat. 
Add onions, carrot, salt and pepper. 
For each pint of liquid add a third 
of a cup of pearl barley. Simmer 
gently for two to three hours. 



The Wilson Ubd Protects YourTdbleld^A|^£nt= 



40 



fH^ 




CUTS OF PORK 

HAM — It is more economical to buy a whole ham. The butt can be 

baked, the center slices fried or broiled and the shank boiled. 

LOIN — Roasts and chops. 

BELLY— Used for bacon. The best grade of bacon, "Majestic"', is 

the heart of this cut. 

PICNIC BUTT — Roasts, steaks, chops, hams. 

BOSTON BUTT— Steaks and roasts. 

JOWL— Used for cheap bacon and generally cooked with baked beards. 

HOCK— Stewed and pickled. 

FAT BACK— Smoked or pickled. 

CLEAR PLATE— Smoked or pickled. 

The Wdson Label Protects Your Table EH|pipPBfc=i 




BROILED BACON is at once the most" easily digested 
and the most savory of all forms of cooked fat. Choice 
bacon of a dependable brand is uniform both in its 
quality and its proportion of fat and lean. Bacon is one of 
the few meats that can be kept on hand constantly and 
cooked quickly. It is one of the few meats of which people 
never tire. Sliced bacon in packages proves convenient in 
an emergency and is unexcelled in flavor. The addition 
of a few slices of bacon improves many meat and vege- 
table dishes. A breakfast of bacon and eggs will satisfy 
almost any man and is one of the easiest breakfasts that the 
cook can prepare. Bacon can be cooked in several ways but 
the best results are obtained by having the bacon cold and the 
fire hot. Bacon that has stood in a hot kitchen becomes soft 
and will not crisp nicely. Broiling is the ideal method of 
cooking bacon. A fine wire rack should be used to hold the 
slices in place, since the regulation broiler of a gas range will 
prove too large. Place the rack over a pan to catch the dripping, 
have a hot fire and turn the bacon as soon as one side is lightly 
cooked and finish the browning quickly. Place the cooked 
bacon on pieces of soft paper and drain the fat while it is 
still warm. When the oven is in use, bacon can be baked on 
the rack in a similar manner. Some cooks prefer the following 
way of frying bacon: Put boiling water in the pan to cover 
the bottom and boil the bacon quickly until the water has 
cooked away, finish the browning with dry heat. The quickest 
way to cook bacon is to put the slices in a hot pan, turning 
them as soon as they have browned on one side. When it is 
desired to draw out the fat, use a slow fire. Place the bacon 
in a frying pan heated gradually; frequently turning will 
insure even cooking, and increased heat at the last results in 
crisp slices. Overheated fat is unwholesome, so care must be 
taken to avoid scorching. The drained fat that remains is 
very useful in many forms of cooking. It should be strained 
and kept in a cold place where it will be ready for use in a sauce 
for other meats, or in a milk gravy for potatoes (boiled, baked 
or re-heated). It can also be used to saute cooked potatoes, 
to enrich the dressing of a potato salad, or a bread stuffing for 
fowl and meat. Bacon is an economical meat as every bit of 
both fat and lean is utilized. Left-over bacon may be used 
in sandwiches or cut up in scrambled eggs, omelets, cereals or 
stuffed eggs. It can be crushed fine and sprinkled over ste>\cd 
potatoes or baked stuffed potatoes. It can also be sprinkled 
on green or lima beans, used in a cream sauce for toast or as a 
spread for bread. 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table! 



42 



MEMORANDUM 



The Wilson Label Protects Your Table 




43 



The Wilson Label 
Protects ^ur Table 




WHAT THE WILSON LABEL TELLS YOU 



WE have told you of the "home influence" in 
this institution — of how we select, prepare and 
handle Wilson products 'with the respect due that 
which is to be served on your table — how we give it the 
same care your mother exercises when she prepares the 
favorite dish of the family. 

We cannot expect your dealer to tell you this story 
every time you buy a Wilson product from him. But 
we want that story told to you in some form every time. 

So we have devised and adopted our "W-shaped" 
Wilson label, with the big "red W" trademark on it. 
About this advertisement are reproduced a number of 
these labels. Every time you see the Wilson label, H 
tells you our story; it gives you our guarantee. 

It symbolizes the principles we outlined fifteen months 
ago — the principles which established a national reputa- 
tion for and confidence in Wilson products — principles 
which we must maintain to grow and endure. 

The Wilson label is our promise to you personally that 
those principles and policies will be maintained constantly. 

It is a faithful declaration that the product bearing 
it is clean, wholesome, properly prepared and thoroughly 
good. 

Try any Wilson product — and you will realize that 
this label on all Wilson products means just that, in. 
the fullest, fairest and broadest sense. 



^^/tCo-o -ro 



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Wilson's 
Majestic 
Poultry 



MAJESTIC Chickens and Fowl 
are produced in our own 
feeding stations, under the most 
up-to-date methods. The finest birds 
only are selected for this class. They 
are fed on a special milk and grain 
diet for a period of about two weeks. 
The quality and the mixture of the 
feed, and the way it is fed, together 
with our most careful selection, pro- 
duces the kind of poultry which is 
highly appreciated by the discrimi- 
nating buyer. Ask for Majestic 
Poultry. 



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THE 
WILSON LABEL 
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Wilson's Majestic 
Hams and Bacon 



THERE is probably no meat food 
product so appetizing, whole- 
some and so generally used as Hams 
and Bacon. 

WILSON'S MAJESTIC HAMS 
AND BACON are very carefully se- 
lected, closely inspected, painstakingly 
and thoroughly cured in the old fash- 
ioned way, slowly smoked and every- 
thing done to insure Smoked Meats, 
both in quality and flavor, that will 
truly represent the WILSON MA- 
JESTIC BRAND. We know WIL- 
SON'S MAJESTIC HAMS AND 
BACON will please you. 
Always ask for 

'WILSONS MAJESTIC." 



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WILSON LABEL 
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Wilson's Majestic 
and Laurel Lard 



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THE housewife, who prides herself 
on the lightness and wholesome- 
ness of the biscuits she serves to her 
friends and family, who wants them 
to be a delicate velvety brown on top . 
who insists that her pies shall have a 
crust that is exactly right so that it 
will add to the goodness of the filling, 
invariably chooses Wilson's Majestic 
or Laurel Lard. 

Wilson's Majestic and Laurel Lard 
— rendered from choice, selected fats 
and by most modern methods, are 
given their fine texture and qual- 
ity under the supervision of experi- 
enced lard makers. Like all Wilson 
Products, they bear the guarantee of 
the Wilson Label. 



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Wilson's 
Canned Meats 



WILSON'S MAJESTIC Sliced 
Beef, Sliced Bacon, Ox Tongue, 
Corned Beef, Roast Beef and 
other Wilson Canned Meat Products 
are carefully cooked under the guid- 
ance of experienced chefs, who take 
great pains to see that each product is 
properly seasoned and spiced so as to 
make it tempting. 

Wilson's Ready- to- Serve Products 
save time, labor and fuel, and are 
always ready to serve to the unex- 
pected guest. 

Keep a supply in your pantry and 
delight your guests and family at 
your luncheons and teas. Like all 
Wilson's Products, they must earn 
the Wilson Label by their undoubted 
quality. 



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Wilson^s 
Oleomargarine 



IF YOU have never tried Oleomar- 
garine, buy a pound of Wilson's 
Certified or Majestic Brand. You will 
find this Oleomargarine truly delicious. 
The ingredients are used in your home 
every day, on the table and in baking 
and cooking; pure refined fats and 
nutritious vegetable oils, churned with 
pasteurized milk. 

No food is made with such pains- 
taking care, so carefully handled, so 
scientifically tested and inspected. 
The United States Government cer- 
tifies to its purity. 

Buy Wilson's Oleomargarine — not 
only because it is economical — but 
because it is an appetizing, nourish- 
ing and delicious food product. 



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Wilson's 

Luncheon 

Delicacies 



A LUNCHEON or tea is made 
pleasant when you rely upon 
the guaranteed excellence of 
Wilson Products. Our expert chefs 
have studied the problem of provid- 
ing luncheon delicacies of the finest 
quality. 

You will find Wilson's Favorite 
Luncheon Loaf, Majestic Square 
Boiled Ham and Sausages both 
delicious and economical. For cold 
luncheons and suppers, picnics or 
auto parties, served plain or with 
potato salad, they are delightful. 



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Wilson's 

Clear Brook 

Butter and Eggs 



CLEAR Brook Eggs — are de- 
pendable, carefully handled, 
closely inspected. We guar- 
antee every egg when obtained in 
our sealed Clear Brook cartons. 

Clear Brook Butter — The best 
butter obtainable, uniform in 
quality, color, and salt. Packed in 
quarter pound, one- half pound and 
one pound flat cartons; also one 
pound cartons containing four 
oblong quarter sections, each wrap- 
ped separately, so it can be sliced 
just the right size for the individual 
dish. Only the finest pasteurized 
butter goes into our Clear Brook 
carton. 



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Wilson's Jams, 
Jellies, Preserves 
and Canned Fruits 



JELLIES — with the clear gleam of 
the fruit — that quiver with old 
fashioned fineness and clean- 
liness. 

Jams and preserves, which give 
you the genuine taste of the berries 
from which they are made. 

Apples, pears, peaches, etc., from 
the best cared for orchards — carefully 
prepared and cooked in our modern 
kitchen in the most approved manner. 

These are the offerings of the 
Wilson Kitchen to you. 



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Wilson^s Canned 

Vegetables and 

Condiments 



CHOICE Maine Corn, plump 
choice grain — sliced green from 
the white cob — cooked and put 
up so that all the ripeness and de- 
liciousness is kept for you. 

Catsup made of fresh, rosy, juicy 
tomatoes — made when they are taken 
plump with goodness — handled 
and cooked as carefully as you 
would have it done in your own 
kitchen. 

All these and many other 
delicious vegetables and condiments 
are ready for you under the Wilson 
Certified Brand Label. 



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—The Dollar Bill 

— The Wilson Label 

Each in Itself a Scrap of 
Paper and a Bit of Ink. 

But Whose True Value is 
Undisputed. 

One Represents the Pledge 
of a Great Country — the 
Other of a Great Com- 
pany. 

Both Appreciate that the 
Fulfillment of Their Ob- 
ligations is Essential to 
Continued Existence and 
Prosperity. 



HAOIU'WCINSIieiHCn OO CHICAOO 

54 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



012 821 364 8 



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