library of congress. Shelf'!X-H..M 55 ilia UNITED STATES OF AM] * % ft * , . PRICK, io CENTS. F RACTICAL HINTS # z* , * B UILDERS. THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL R00FIN© GO 510 to 520 East 20th Street Jew York. \ PRAGTie^L JJlNTS TO J^HILDERS AND THOSE CONTEMPLATING BUILDING. Second Edition. ©Jact/ dfyv'ortfi. d>orL&ic|eNng RELATING TO Foundation, Cellar, Kitchen, Chimney, Cistern, Brick-work, Mortar, Heating, Ventilation, The Roof, and many items of interest to Builders. Copyrighted , 1888, by The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co. / !§&«- ^aTiowaf (?o. SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF Walter’s I*atent Standard, and Cooper’s I*atent Queen Anne Metallic Shingles and Siding Elates, 510 to 520 East Twentieth Street, New York City. J!jN !)■)¥* Press of W. J. Pell, 92 John Street, New York. INDEX Architect, The. 4 Architects and Builders.. 16 Brick-work. 34 Building Paper. 47 Chimneys. Illustrated .17 Cellar, The. 22 Cistern, The... Illustrated -... 46 Colors and How to Make Them.... 48 Colors.—For Exterior and Interior. 10 Cottage Home, 10 rooms. Illustrated . 8 .. “ . 12 . “ 18 . “ 24 . 3 i . “ 38 . “ 49 . “ 56 . “ 54 .. “ . 6 . “ 7 Conductors Foundation 8 << «< 7 “ “ ••• • 6 “ . “ . 8 “ . “ ... . pj a i i Cooper’s. “ . The. “ . Gold Medal “Award”. “ . Guarantee, Our..*. 49 Heating. Illustrated. .44 Kitchen, The.. . 29 Metal Shingles, compared with Slate. 36 “ “ “ “ Wood. 26 “ “ “ “ other forms.. 37 Directions for Laying. Illustrated . 59 Queen Anne. “ 40 “ “ Walter’s Patent. “ . 20 “ “ Bronze. 31 “ “ Samples.30, 66 Mortar? What is Good. 14 Our Goods. 65 Price List. .41, 42, 43 Ridge Coping. Illustrated . 52 Roof, The. “ 28 Roof Valleys or Gutters... 13, 23 Roofs, Comparative Pitch of... Illustrated . 58 Selecting a Building Site. 5 Sundries, Price List of .41, 43 Sheathing, The Best.^.,... 45 Ventilation. 53 Wire Nails. 57 Wholesale Agents . n What Our Goods Are .35, 65 Preface.-^ The object of this little book is to give to builders a few prac¬ tical hints that can be used in their endeavors to erect a home that is proposed to be durable, comfortable and healthy. They are susceptible of being improved to an extent that will meet the wishes of the most extravagant builder, or simplified to suit purse and requirements of a builder with moderate means. We have left out generalities, and offer the reader solid facts that are valuable to every one engaged in the ever pleasant task of constructing a home. THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., 510 to 520 East Twentieth St., New York City. / S J / Practical Hints to Builders. THE ARCHITECT. Shall we employ one ? Yes, if the work is sufficiently important to justify it, and it is a very modest house indeed that is not. As the professional architect is generally a graduate of one of the building trades, and has gravitated to that position because of his peculiar fitness for it, it stands to reason, some will think, that from among the many builders one can be selected who is capable of taking the contract and presiding as architect. To such persons we would say: You are not familiar with the functions of an archi¬ tect, when considered separate from the builder. The architect can save you money. He discovers your wants, your likes, and your dislikes; he reduces them to a tangible form; he draws up the specifications so minutely that every variety of material and labor is distinctly set forth as to its quality and kind. When completed, plans and specifications are presented to a builder for an estimate; he knows exactly what is expected of him. There is no chance for controversy or quibble; all has been settled by the owner through his architect. In consequence, if several con¬ tractors estimate upon the building, it is known that their figures are all upon the same basis. We will say in general he can save you from five to twenty per cent, in cost; will give you better construction and proportions, and add a value to your house, apart from its first cost, that if it does not sell for more, it will sell more readily than if built without his service. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 5 SELECTING A BUILDING SITE. There are but few persons who are in a position to locate their proposed home just where they would most desire it. But, fortu¬ nately, most any building site is capable of being made to look well, if the style of architecture selected harmonizes with the surround¬ ings. It is of the first importance that the location be a healthy one. Better rent all your life than ignore that. Avoid the neighborhood of swamps and stagnant water, or where the cellar, (if you have one) to your house, from the nature of the location, will be damp. Large bodies of water, or running water is never unhealthy; but on the contrary, it is in many ways conducive to health. Some very unin¬ viting, rugged and neglected spots, can, with but little expense and an appropriate building, be made exceedingly beautiful. One of the prettiest school-houses I ever saw was built on a lot given by a farmer for a district school. It did look as if the piece of ground was worthless for any purpose; it was rocky, overgrown with berries and bushes, and a tiny stream ran across the lot, jump¬ ing from rock to rock, along-side of which, on a level spot but little larger than room for a building, a house with steep roof and turret was built, and the adjacent hillside made a splendid study and play¬ ground for the scholars. When completed the farmer found to his sorrow he had given away the most valuable building site on his farm. While an elevation is at all times desirable, a hill is not. The exposure to the storms in winter, and the tiresome walk in summer, is to be avoided. A few native trees, if on the ground to furnish shade, are desirable. The water supply too, is to be considered. Most architects say a Southern exposure is the best, but this depends on your location. For Southern homes the East is preferable. 6 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. FOUNDATION. Just how deep to excavate to start the foun- on of a house depends on the climate and Always dig trenches below the frost line in soil. This is sufficient if the subsoil is solid; le subsoil is not solid,' go deep enough to h solid earth. In saying this, we are supposing you are not building in a swamp, where it is often necessary to drive piles upon which to start a solid foundation. Stone is gen¬ erally used for foundation walls where it is convenient, and it makes the best. Hard pressed brick, laid with mortar composed of one part of hydraulic lime and two parts sharp sand, makes a foundation not inferior to stone for all practical purposes. By using the above mortar, dampness will not ascend from the ground to injure the floor joists. Mortar made from common lime or sand, though commonly used, is objectionable for foundations, because dampness will ascend even above the floor joists, if the floor is not several feet above the ground. It is often the case that hydraulic lime cannot be conven¬ iently had. In that case a layer of slate or coarse paper, well satu¬ rated with pitch, laid between the brick seams below the line of joists, will answer the same purpose, and is less expensive. See that the space between the joists is filled with brick, flush with the under-side of floor boards. This prevents Mr. Rat, or other members of his interesting family, from sitting in these little corners and gnawing into the room above, or climbing between the PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 7 siding to the upper floors. If this little matter is attended to right, neither rats nor mice can enter the house, except through the doors. To keep them from burrowing underneath the foundation walls, let the thickness of one brick project outward at the bottom of the foundation. On burrowing downward, a rat soon reaches this shelf, and following it around till he arrives at the place he started from, becomes disgusted and commits suicide, or is supposed to, as he is never seen about the house again. It is always better to have the foundation broader at the bottom than the thickness of wall intended to be used. * This is necessary in all brick houses, unless on a rock bottom. See that the space under the ground floor is left clear of rubbish before the floor is laid, and grating built in the wall for ventilation. This opening can be closed in winter to secure additional warmth. The cellar is closely related to the foundation, but we will give some hints on its construction on another page. Fac-simile of Gold Medal awarded to Walter’s Patent Metallic Shin¬ gles. These Shingles have received twenty-eight other awards for merit in the United States. 8 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Design I .—Front Elevation. TEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $5,000 to $6,000. The plans and elevations of cottages presented in this book have each been specially prepared for some individual by Frank L. Smith, Architect, of 22 School Street, Boston, Mass., from whom specifications and full sets of details can be procured. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 9 First Floor. Design I.— {Elevation, page 8.) Second Floor. Design I.— {Elevation, page 8.) LO PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. COLORS.—For Exterior and Interior. As your house nears completion, it is well to decide upon colors. That is a distinctive feature which is to give tone and beauty, and make your house in some respects different from all others. The question of painting is often a mere matter of preserving the struc¬ ture, and not a question of beauty or harmony of colors, or what would be best suited to the surroundings; it is too often the case that but little regard is paid to those nice perceptions that make one man’s work many times more valuable than another.- Strong con¬ trasts of color should be avoided. Light tints are preferable to strong colors. Think of a house painted black, red, yellow or green. Let the surroundings suggest what the exterior colors should be. A house surrounded by trees and shrubbery will admit of white, with white tinted trimmings, such as cornices, corner-boards, window and door frames; but for half the year the green foliage cf the trees is turned to brown, which but partially relieves the glaring white. This is why that color is not a favorite for exteriors. As a rule, select a light color for the body of the house, and darken that for the trimmings. For interior wood-work select light wood colors; let none be darker than walnut. Oak, chestnut, ash, white walnut, maple and cherry make a beautiful finish by simply oiling, and varnishing if a gloss is preferred. Very light shades of ochre make beautiful ceil¬ ings, which can be ornamented with suitable designs, using darker but delicate shades of other light colors. Here is where the taste and skill of the painter comes in, and unless you are an adept, don’t fail to consult an experienced decorator for your inside walls. For houses of moderate cost we think nothing is equal to solid colors for inside walls. Let the colors be light and cheerful, and the rooms of different shades. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. ii jjg ' hit l«wRKteHr*w»'»fi :iM»KRHH«MS i ", If you are interested in Roofing, send for our Price List and Discount Sheet, which is special to the trade. We are pioneers in the introduction of practical metal shingles, and no imitator has yet produced their equal. Our goods are largely used throughout the United States and Canadas; are used by the Government and Railroads; approved by the Fire Insurance Companies, and many leading Architects and Builders. They are lighter than slate, and will last longer without repairs; and the low rate of insurance on out roofing will, in a short time, more than balance the dif¬ ference in price where wood shingles are cheaper. As seen by the cut, our shingles are the same to-day as when first introduced. Remember, no cleats or springs are nec¬ essary in using our shingles. The lock is simple and perfect, with corrugations across the top, and bracing corrugations across the exposed end of the shingles, which stiffen and hold the shingles firmly to the underlying courses. They are easily applied, and any one who can lay a wood shingle can lay these. We furnish them in four sizes, made from char- * coal roofing tin, painted both sides and un¬ painted, galvanized tin plate, which is su¬ perior to galvanized iron, cold rolled copper, and steel plates. We keep on hand a full line of roofing sundries. Our Shingles received the highestand only award for metal shingles at the American Institute, held in this city, October, 1886 , and New Orleans Exposition, 1885 . WHOLESALE AGENTS, A. McISTOSH, 3141 Cottage Grove Ave., Western Agent. W. W. MONTAGUE & CO., San Francisco, Cal., Pacific Coast. KNISELY & MILTER, Chicago, III. ,T. J. WALTERS, Denver, Col. PHILLIPS & BUTTORFF MFG. CO., Nashville, Tenn. THOS. MCDONALD & CO., Toron¬ to, Sole Agents for Canada. JEROME TWICHELL & CO., Kansas City, Mo. The National Sheet Metal Hoofing Company, 510, 512, 514, 516, 518, 520 East 2oth St., New York, U. S. A. li practical hints to builders. s' & CO 8 8 u w co D O X > Pi o H co I O £ H S O O Pi £ w > w co practical hints To builders. i3 ROOF VALLEYS OR GUTTERS. It is generally known to builders and roofers that the greatest amount of wear upon all kinds of roofs is in the valleys or gutters. Therefore, that part of the roof, whether covered with slate, tin or wood shingles, should be of the best material, and free from the annoying possibility of cracking. This trouble is always caused by expansion and contraction of the metal. The usual method is to make the valley of the desired length, and, after shaping to the roof-boards, to nail each side firmly. The result is, with the summer heat, a buckle is often formed at some point between the two ends. In cold weather the buckle draws out, and in course of time, if the joints in the middle do not give way, a leak will appear, caused by the metal cracking. This will not occur with our roof valleys, because we amply provide for the expansion and contraction of the same. We particularly call the attention of dealers in building material to our Queen Anne Valley. It is salable, durable and cheap, always ready to apply; can be used by any workman capable of laying slate, tin or wood shingles. THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. Design C.— {Elevations,page 12 .) 14 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. WHAT IS GOOD MORTAR? To a casual observer mortar is mud, but to a builder who under¬ stands the chemistry of mortar it is a compound of water, lime and sand, and when properly prepared forms an indestructible cement. Fresh slacked lime when brought in contact with clean, sharp sand, adheres strongly to the surface of each grain, and forms the silicate of lime. At the same time, the drying mortar absorbs carbonic acid from the atmosphere, forming with it lime-stone, which in time becomes a rock in solidity. Now, all mortar is good or bad in proportion to the purity of the ingredients and their relative affinity for each other. The adhesive properties of mortar are nullified by loam or clay in sand, or the stale condition of lime used. Loam mortar adheres freely to the surface of walls or ceilings. So does mud if thrown against an upright surface; but water dissolves it. It dries quickly, but does not harden with age. The foundation of many frame, and the entire walls of many brick houses are built with poor mortar, when the materials for good could be had at the same price. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 5 Water, lime, sand and hair are the ingredients for plasterers’ mortar in about the following proportions: One bushel unslacked lime and four bushels of sharp sand; (to this add twenty-four pounds of dry hair for every one hundred yards, when used for “scratch” or first coat,) and water sufficient to make it of proper consistency. After being properly mixed, the mortar should stand from three to ten days before using. However, the time it should stands depends upon the susceptibility of the lime to slack. Some lime requires a month, while good lime slacks immediately. Age improves mortar, provided it is kept wet, and makes it work easier under the workman’s trowel. As it is the keys formed by pressing the mortar against the lathing on the ceiling that holds it to its place, there should be a relative width of lath and key space to insure strength sufficient to prevent its falling. Ignorance of this, and poor mortar, is the cause of falling ceilings. Lath one inch wide, inches thick, placed T 7 g- inches apart will insure good strong work. The second coat needs but a very small quantity of hair. Fifty bushels sand, and twelve and one-half bushels unslacked lime, will make mortar enough to cover one hundred square yards. If mortar freezes before it is dry it loses its cementing properties and becomes in common phase rotten, but if the sand used is clean, and it re¬ mains frozen without thawing until it is dry, it is not injured. The best way to treat a house in which the plastering is not dry, and can¬ not be kept from freezing before it dries, is to throw the house open, and let it freeze for eight or ten days, or until the plastering freezes dry. Cisterns should be plastered inside with mortar made of equal parts of hydraulic lime a»d clean sand. For brick work above foun¬ dations use one part unslacked lime to four parts sand. i6 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. TO ARCHITECTS AND BUILDERS. There is no detail of house building more important than the roof. Upon it depends to a great degree the durability and preser¬ vation of the whole structure. The number of good houses with mot¬ tled ceilings and cracked plastering, to be seen all over the country, are reminders of the necessity of securing the best material and faultless construction for this important part of your dwelling. The advantages we claim for our Tin Shingle, over the ordinary mode of applying sheet metal for roofing purposes, consists in its Superior Strength (see our guarantee); Freedom from Wrinkles and Cracking, (which cannot at all times be pre¬ vented where sheet metal is put on in continuous sheets); and in being the Most Ornamental and Durable of all sheet metal roof coverings. Now, in answer to this last assertion you may say, How can this be? Is not the same quality of tin as durable when applied in one form as another,? We answer, By no means. The writer—and we presume the reader—has seen tin roofs worked, and walked over in the necessary finishing up, to such an extent as to seriously damage the roof. The Tin Roofers’ mallets, seamers, tongs, and sliding over the roof, do more real damage to the surface of tin plate than several years’ wear. We entirely overcome this difficulty, as no part of the exposed surface of our Tin Shingles are struck with a mallet or hammer in applying them. Again, where metal plates are put together in continuous sheets, moisture, which condenses un¬ derneath for want of ventilation, settles in the cross-seams and causes decay, and the ordinary metal roof when removed invariably shows this to be the case, while the other part of the plate shows no per¬ ceptible wear. Our form of metal roofing has no cross-seams, and has sufficient ventilation to prevent the condensation of moisture under¬ neath, making it by many years the most durable form of metal roof¬ ing ever offered to the American people. Our object is to furnish the building public with a better form of roofing material, attractive in appearance, without the objections of the heavy slate, the clumsy shingle, or the plain ribbed metal roof; and at a price that claims the attention of Architects and Builders of the whole country. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 17 CHIMNEYS. We will not moralize on the evils of smoky chimneys, but just tell you in plain language how to construct them so they will not smoke. Make the throat of the fire¬ place not more than half the size of the flue; carefully smooth the inside of the flue, and have it of the same area all the way to near the top of the chimney, when it should be gradually tapered inward to about half the area of the flue. At the extreme top, the cap stone should slant from the opening in all directions downward at an angle of about twenty degrees. This will insure a good draught, and prevent the smoke blowing downward. No two fire¬ places should enter the same flue; -neither should a stove-pipe enter a flue unless the fire-place is closed. Each stove and fire-place should have its own flue. The size necessary for a flue depends on the fuel to be used. Soft or Bituminous coal requires a flue nearly double the size of one where Anthracite is to be used; an open fire-place for wood, larger flues than either. For instance, an 8x8 inch flue answers for Anthracite, because it makes but little soot, while if Bituminous coal is used, 8x12 is none too large. You will find in houses all over the country flues smaller than the above, and a corresponding number of smoky chimneys, which it is impossible to remedy without re-building from the bottom up. The carelessness displayed in chimney construction is astonish¬ ing. As the work is hid from view on completion, be watchful during the process of construction from the ground up. All chimneys should, if possible, extend above the apex or comb of roof, and should be built of good hard burnt brick, and no woodwork should be allowed to enter within five inches of inside of flue, and not within twelve inches anywhere near the fire-place. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 16 EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $3,500 to $4,000, PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. First Floor. Second Floor. Design H.— {Elevation, page 18). 5o PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. THE WALTER’S PATENT, AND WHAT IT IS. Previous to the granting of a patent to John Walter, in 1882, there were no tin shingles manufactured for the trade in the United States, with the exception of those which covered more than two-thirds of their surface to get one-third exposed to the weather; the same is commonly done with wood shingles. This made them too expensive for general use. The Walter’s patent made it practical to expose five- sixths of the surface, and only conceal one-sixth of the shingle. This great saving at once reduced the cost of metal shingles over one-half, and enabled the National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., which controls this patent, to put on the market the best metal roofing in the world, at prices that compete with ordinary wood shingles. (See “Compara¬ tive Cost,” pages 26 and 27.) How this was done is best expressed in the claim granted the patentee, copied from the United States Official Gazette: “A metal'roofing plate having a gutter formed by corrugations at one side, and a perforated flange at the side of the gutter, whereby it shall be nailed to the roof of a house; a broad corrugation at the other side adapted to form a seam with the adjoining edge of a corresponding plate, substantially as shown and described.” The advantage of this lock is that it makes a water-tight seam without soldering or hammering down. The plates are joined as easy as crossing two sticks, with ample provision for expansion and contraction. This lock is the perfection of simplicity; there is no exposed seam where water is liable to lodge and cause rust; no cleats PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 21 are used, and no tin springs are necessary to hold the side edges of connecting plates to prevent water seeping through. Another important feature in the shingles of this Company is the Cooper patent of 1883, two of the claims of which, copied from the United States Official Gazette, reads: Claim, “A metal roofing plate, provided at its overlapping end with a bracing corrugation that is made highest at the middle of the plate, and gradually shallower from the middle to the ends of the corrugation, as and for the purpose set forth.” Claim, ‘‘A metal roofing plate, provided at its upper end with two or more dams, extending continuously across the plate, as and for the purpose set forth.” We insert these claims, that interested parties may know what our patent is based on, and because there are shingles on the market, artfully constructed, which infringe our patents. By reading our claims, at the same time you have one of these spurious shingles in hand, patented since ours, the infringement is easily discovered. It is a common thing for an infringer to take out a patent for a trifling change, and with it use another patent, without which their device would be worthless. NOTICE.—The side lock of our Metal Shingles are being imitated .by the use of an exposed seam, and which, when applied to a roof, allows water from the slightest rain-fall or dew to enter and stand in the side seams formed by joining such shingles the entire exposed length of each. This is a matter of great importance to consumers, as the durability of the roof depends on successfully excluding moisture from the parts where the shingles are joined. Examine the imitation carefully in connection with our Walter's patent, the side lock of which is a lock, and not a seam exposed that will admit moisture, a fact well known to parties who have used them. THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. 22 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. THE CELLAR. The cellar under a dwelling house has many advocates. It is a convenient, cool place, and nineteen times out of twenty is a damp, dark, musty, foul-smelling place. It cannot well be otherwise and be a cellar. It is a store-room for all sorts of vegetables; odds and ends of most everything are laid away in that dark retreat. It is the favorite resort of spiders, toads and other creeping things; it is the unrelenting enemy (?) of the family physician, the breeding-place of malaria, which unceasingly sends its poisonous vapors into every part of the dwelling above it. It would be suicide for one to make it their sleeping room. But if you insist upon having a cellar under your house, and will not put it under the corn-crib or carriage-house, see that it is properly constructed. This is more important than most of the other parts of the house, for upon it in a great measure depends the health of your entire family. The floor of the cellar should be hard and dry, with no wood¬ work in its construction. To obtain this result, cover the floor about three inches deep with coarse gravel, or. broken stone, well pounded to a level surface. Fill this with a thin mortar, composed of one part hydraulic cement and two parts sharp sand, smoothing it off with a trowel or plasterer’s level. When we mention sharp sand we mean coarse, clean sand. Build a flue, say 8x12 inches (with an opening next to the floor of the cellar fully that size), from the bottom of cellar foundation alongside of and extending to top of kitchen chimney, the heat of which will create a constant, upward current of air from the cellar. On the opposite side of cellar from this ventilating flue make an air inlet near the ceiling for the purpose of supplying fresh air to the cellar. This will keep the cellar dry and the atmosphere healthy. Put a wire netting over the opening to prevent the entrance of rats and mice. If from the nature of the location, or other causes, a PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 23 cellar is damp, dig a trench all around a little below and outside of the foundation wall; this trench should be covered with flat stones and earth filled in a little above the surface line, so that surface water will flow from, and not settle next to, the foundation walls. When the cellar is completed whitewash the walls and ceiling. OUR “QUEEN ANNE” VALLEY. Patented October 30th, 1883. This cut fairly illustrates our improvement. The cor¬ rugations at the side keep the edges rigid, and prevent the edges from dipping into any space that may be be¬ tween the roof boards where they are not laid close. Be¬ sides this, they dispense with the necessity of chalk-lines, and hold the shingle or slate from lying close upon the metal, preventing decay both of wood and metal. A con¬ venience and benefit to every builder. To be used where the pitch of the roof is equal to that necessary in using the ordinary shingle . 24 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Design G .—Front Elevation. EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $3,000 to $3,500. Smithtown Branch, L. I., November 27th, 1886. Dear Sirs:—During the recent very heavy storms—wind and rain—the roof on my house, put on with Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles, stood the test; not a single leak has ever been discovered, not even around the chimneys, valleys, nor where the roof of the wing butts up against the main building. The work was done in April last, and never leaked, and I think never will , as long as the material lasts. You will remember how reluctant I was to try the shingles, but I am now glad that I did so, for I not only have a good first-class roof—fire-proof— but I also have the handsomest roof in our town. I promised you I would come in and see you, and tell you how I liked the shingles, but not having done so, 1 write you this. Yours very truly, COE D. SMITH. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. • 25 First Floor. Second Floor. Design G.— (Elevation, page 24.) New Bedford, Mass., June 24th, 1887. Gentlemen:—*The Metallic Shingles, which were put on by you on the roof of the New Bristol County Jail and House of Correction at this place, are en¬ tirely satisfactory in every respect, the manner in which the plates are rolled overcoming all objections to the expansion and contraction of the metal. Those that were put on here were of hard rolled copper, and have now turned a beau¬ tiful bronze color, and is very much admired by all who have seen it. The roof cannot but be an extremely desirable roof, and I do not see that it can need repairs of any kind for years to come. Yours very truly, ROBERT H. SLACK, Architect. 26 Practical hints to builders. WOOD AND METAL SHINGLES. COMPARATIVE COST. We are often asked if our metal shingles are as cheap as wood shingles. While we cannot consistently say they are not; still, if we say they are, they refer to our price list, which necessitates an expla¬ nation something like this: We will suppose a dwelling is to be built to cost, say $2,500. Such a house will usually require about 20 squares of roof covering, which, if done with wood shingles, fixes the cost of fire insurance about one-quarter of one per cent, higher than a metal roof during its existence. This extends not only to the house, but all contained in such roofed houses. And this is the case, no matter how good the wood shingles are. In making this comparison, we will consider such shingles as are generally used in the older settled portions of the country. We are aware that shingles made from well-matured timber, straight-grained, free from sap and wind-shakes, full length, hand drawn to five-eighths of an inch at the butt, four inches wide, and carefully put on make a good, durable roof. But shingles of that kind are only to be had in the tliinly settled portions of the country. It is the broad, thin, split or sawed shingles, found in all markets, which we contend are more expensive than our metal shingles. These do not last, on an average, more than fifteen years, and after ten years the repairs are a continual expense until removed and re¬ placed with new material, which is not often done until some of the PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 27 woodwork is badly damaged, and ceiling cracked and stained from frequent leakages. On the other hand, tin shingles will last for any length of time , if fainted once in every five or six years, and show no perceptible wear. Cost of a TIN SHINGLE Roof for a Period of Fifteen Years. Twenty squares of Tin Shingles, at $6.75 per square - - - $135 00 Labor of putting on same - 10 00 One coat of paint after roof is laid - - - - - . - - 8 00 Total cost of same.$153 00 One coat of paint at expiration of five years.10 00 One coat of paint at expiration of ten years - - - 10 00 One coat of paint at expiration of fifteen years - - - - - 10 00 Insurance on $2,500 for fifteen years, at one-half of one per cent, per annum - 187 50 Total cost at expiration of fifteen years - - $370 50 Cost of a WOOD SHINGLE Roof for a Period of Fifteen Years. Twenty squares of Wood Shingles, at $3.25 per square - $6500 Putting on same.. . 20 00 Expense of five years’ repairs, after expiration of ten years; damage to roof and ceiling, caused by leakage, not counted - - 15 00 Insurance on $2,500 for fifteen years, at three-quarters of one per cent, per annum --------- 281 25 Expense of covering at expiration of fifteen years - 85 00 Total.$466 25 Making a difference in favor of Tin Shingles in a period of fifteen years of.$05.75 28 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. THE ROOF. A roof for your house is indispensable, and because it is so, let it be a good one. No part of your house is subject to the same amount of exposure, and there is no part independent of its pro¬ tection. If you have built for the personal comfort of yourself and family, do not slight the roof because cheap, plain material is the most convenient. There is really no economy in doing so. It is outside, to be sure, but, like the chimney, it is a ne¬ cessity. As we cannot ig¬ nore it, we must try to make it, as a part of the house, attractive. No money spent on the house will add more to its selling value than that expended in taste and material for the roof. The difference expended in favor of good material adds to every part of the structure. The roof is about the first thing the prospective purchaser sees. He cannot help it; it is right before his eyes. His first impressions are the hardest to overcome. A good roof must be, first, rain-proof; second, fire-proof; third, light in weight; fourth, durable; fifth, ornamental; sixth, not liable to get out of order. You can have your house covered with such a roof, and not pass the limited boundaries of economy. Read carefully the pages of this little book devoted to roofing materials and sundries. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 2 9 THE KITCHEN. Somehow, our architects and builders habitually neglect to study the requirements of the kitchen, but persist in constructing for this use a plainly constructed room, generally cramped in size, with no means of escaping the great heat generated by the range or stove, which in the hot months of summer is almost unbearable. If men were often obliged to remain in such a place, a large part of the day during the hot season, they would be quick to seize upon any plan which would mitigate the heat. But as their wives, daughters or “help” preside in that department, they offer no amendment to the’long-established mode of kitchen construction. Now, a kitchen can be so constructed that even with the largest size family-stove or range in use, it will be as comfortable as any other room in the house, and at an expense not to exceed the cost of the stove or range used. To do this, build of brick a large open fire-place, say from three to twelve inches broader than the length of the stove or range to be used, and from front to rear deep enough to receive the same. It is best to set an ordinary cook-stove with the side to the front, so that the oven door can be convenient. The oven door, of course, on the opposite side is permanently closed. The range being differently constructed can readily be set in the brick enclosure of open fire-place, the walls of which should be built perpendicular to the floor, and about five feet high. The back wall should be sufficiently thick to commence at this point a smoke-flue 8x12 inches, with an opening to receive the smoke-pipe from the range or stove, and continue it out through the roof of house (see “Chimneys”); resting on the walls of this open fire-place build, either with wood or brick, a tapering flue, so that after emerging from the roof it will expose an opening of not less than four square feet. A cap should be put over this to prevent, an entrance of rain, but not to contract the draught space. You will see by this arrangement you have a large chimney with a fire-place at the bottom large enough to receive the stove or range. 30 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Now construct a sliding sash with double strength glass, and bal¬ anced with weights, with the upper end of sash inside the draught flue, and the lower end to reach within a foot of the floor, and about four inches from the side of stove. You will readily perceive that the heat from the stove inside the flue will constantly cause a strong draught between the bottom of the sash and the floor, which will prevent heat from escaping into the kitchen, keeping it as cool as any room in the house. Even with the sash up, the draught will take nearly all the heat through the flue over the stove, carrying with it the steam and odor during the process of cooking. A coat of whitewash inside the brick-work will add to the appearance and give light, which is shadowed by the flue. The kitchen should be large and light, and, if possible, be joiifed by a broad covered porch, upon which much of the kitchen work can be done in warm weather. As this little book is merely hints to builders, we cannot go into the details of hot and cold water, stationary wash-tubs and such matters. But we will say, more important than all this is a well- constructed drain-pipe, not less than three inches in diameter, leading from the kitchen sink to a point some distance (according to the nature of the ground) from the house. This pipe, inside the kitchen, should have a trap to prevent offensive odors escaping into the room. SAMPLE SHINGLES. We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our Walter’s Patent Shingles (three pieces) to any address in the United States on receipt of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the expense, but we propose to make the cost as light as possible to those interested in building. THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. PRACTICAL HINTS TO RUILDERS. 31 Design F.—Front Elevation. SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $2,300 to $2,600. BRONZE METAL SHINGLES.—We believe we are the first to offer Bronze Metal Shingles to the world; certainly the first to manufacture them in the United States. No other metal known for house covering is their equal, not excepting copper, which in its pure state is rather soft and pliable, unless of a weight to practically exclude its use. Bronze Metal is hard, rigid and sufficiently ductile to make the most service¬ able roofing material for public and first-class private buildings in the world. Any house designed to exist as a memorial of man’s sagacity and thrift should be covered with these shingles. They are as enduring as marble; they will wear for any length of time. We make them in three sizes—7 by 10, 10 by 14, and Queen Anne style. Prices furnished upon application. The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., Office, 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. 32 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Design F .—Side Elevation. Lititz, Pa., February 27th, 1885. Dear Sirs:—I was the first man in this town to cover my new house, built last summer, with Walter’s Patent Charcoal Tin Shingles, and will say that they have given, thus far, entire satisfaction. They are not only ornamental but durable, and since my roof has introduced them in our town, a great many have been put on, all giving satisfaction. I am sure that this is the material for roofing houses in the future. They are better than any other roof now in use, and will take the place of wood shingles, which are getting scarce, and also of slate roofs, which are broken by storms. Mine has stood the test of the se¬ verest storms, during the summer and winter, known here for many years, and has proven itself what you claim it is—absolutely wind, rain and storm-proof. JOHNSON MILLER, Secretary. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 33 First Floor. Second Flooi Design F.— {Elevations,pages 31 and 32.) Cedar Bluff, Ala., February 20th, 1888. Gentlemen:—Enclosed find exchange for one hundred and forty and dol¬ lars to cover bill roofing. I am delighted with the Walter’s Shingle, and the universal verdict of all who have seen my roof is that it is a perfect beauty. You will hear from me again, and you may expect other orders from this place. * Yours truly, R. LAWRENCE. 34 practical hints to builders. BRICK-WORK. “Brick from the run of the kiln” will answer for most houses; those of even color, well-burnt and regular shape, should be selected for the outside walls and chimneys. Those of irregular shape, too hard or too soft for outside walls, can be used for filling in, or par¬ tition walls. No soft burnt brick should be allowed where exposed to the weather. Supposing the foundation is finished, and first-floor joists are laid, commence by filling between joists, flush with the top of joists and even with the inside of foundation walls, so no shelves are left between the joists for the purpose shown in hints under the head of “Foundation,” page 6. If the inside of outside walls are to be furred, be prepared to insert strips about the thickness of common lath between brick joints at points where base boards are to be put, and to fasten long strips or grounds as called by plasterers. No mortar should be put be¬ tween the lath strip and the brick, but let the lath be pressed by the surface of the upper and lower brick; the.natural settling of the wall will hold the lath tight enough to bear any amount of nailing. For doors and windows, insert pieces same thickness, but large enough to receive the casings. These thin pieces inserted in the mortar joints are better and cheaper than plugs or wooden brick, which are apt to shrink and become loose when the brick-work dries. It is very important that flues for ventilation and chimneys be prop¬ erly started (see “Chimneys”) and carried through the roof to a height, if possible, above the apex of the rocf. Ventilating flues should run alongside the chimney flues where the construction favors them. Too much care cannot be taken in building these flues. They should be carefully and smoothly plastered on the inside, and no wood-work be allowed nearer than five inches from the inside of flue. It is customary to use headers (cross bricks) every five courses, to bind the walls together. Many people object to headers, and prefer to expose only the edge surface of the brick. This can be done by clipping the inside courses of outside brick so as to allow the middle PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 35 course to lay angular across the wall, with opposite courses resting half way between and on the outside courses, or by using square brick. The latter is a saving of labor if they can be had at a reason¬ able price. The thickness of walls depends entirely upon the size of structure to be built. For ordinary dwelling-houses, twelve inches is thick enough for outside walls and nine inches for partition walls. Mortar for brick-work above foundation should be made of one part of good lime, slacked at time of mixing the mortar, and four parts of screened sharp sand. The cementing qualities of sand and fresh lime depend on the purity of the sand. By pure sand we mean that which is free from loam or clay. STANDARD CHARCOAL ROOFING TIN SHINGLES. Our Standard Charcoal Roofing Tin Shingles are made of such brands as “ Mansel,” “ Dean,” “Worcester,” “ P. T. L” &c., and guaranteed to be first-class, well-coated plates, perfect in finish. Next comes our Galvanized (re-dipped) shingle; this is our Standard Tin Shingle, taken after it is made and dipped into melted zinc, add¬ ing a second coat of fully twenty pounds on each square, giving with the tin, a more durable coating than that used on galvanized iron, making it absolutely rust-proof and saving painting. Next is what we call “ Old Process” or “ M. F.” This is what is known as “Old Style,” “Double-Dipped,” “Old Method,” and other names, but what is really a very superior article of roofing-plate, having a much heavier coating than “Standard,” but, like it, has to be painted. There are many brands of practically one quality in the market, and, having no choice ourselves, we supply the brand preferred; but if the best is asked for, we send “ Old Process,” believing it to be equal to any. THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 3<> THINGS ARE ONLY GOOD OR BAD BY COMPARISON. Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles Compared with Slate. Our shingles are not one-sixth the weight of slate, which greatly reduces the cost of the frame-work of roof. They readily conform to the shape of a roof, which slate will not do. Slate is not thor¬ oughly fire-proof, as heat from an adjoining building on fire will cause the slate to crack, which would destroy the best roof in a few minutes, leaving the sheeting exposed. Especially is this the case if water is thrown on them while hot. Our shingles are free from the many accidents to which slate roofs are liable, such as cracking from shrinkage of wood-work to which they are attached; breaking, caused by necessary repairs to the valleys or chimneys; and the effect of frost on defective slate. Such defects cannot always be avoided by ordinary observation. All builders of experience are aware of the expensive repairs neces¬ sary to keep a slate roof in good order, but perhaps the most incon¬ sistent thing connected with the whole roofing business is the fact that nineteen-twentieths of all the houses covered with slate have gutters lined with the same material of which our shin¬ gles are made, while slate was used for covering because of its supposed durability. Should anything fall on our shingles it would probably dent them without causing a break; but should it perforate them, the shingles can be replaced by another, or a leak can be soldered, and fire from an adjoining roof cannot more than injure the paint. They will cool off rapidly, retaining their shape. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 37 Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles Compared with Ordinary Tin Roofing. Of this we speak with the advantage of many years’ experience as practical roofers. The great difficulty metal roofers have to con¬ tend with is contraction and expansion of the metal under the changes of temperature. This cause alone calls for continued repairs in all flat lock or standing seam roofs, and the seams under¬ neath are receptacles for any moisture which may condense on the underside of the metal. All such roofs first show decay in the cross seams, and this, while the body of the plates shows no sign of decay. Our shingles have no cross seam, and are sufficiently ventilated to prevent condensation of moisture; while a glance at their con¬ struction shows at once that the difficulty caused by contraction and expansion is successfully overcome. Our shingles do not require the skilled labor which is necessary to lay the flat lock or standing groove metal roofing, while the time required to lay a given surface is much less. In estimating the difference of cost between the ordinary tin roofing and our shingle, a steep roof house alone must be taken in consideration, as our shingle is not proposed for a flat roof. (See Comparative Cost,” pages 26 and 27.) ROOFING SUNDRIES. We were the first to manufacture a full line of Valley, Hip and Ridge Coping, Gable, &c., to enable the builder or roofer to use them at a reasonable price, and are the only factory in America pre¬ pared to furnish such trimming in any quantity; and while they are not absolutely necessary, they greatly lessen the amount of labor and cost of laying, besides adding a finish to the roof not otherwise ob¬ tained, so that the saving in labor will pay the additional cost. ) 8 CO n" O O O d CQ *-> • T* £ in O O X! d £ • »H 4 -> C /3 W PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 39 First Floor . Second Floor. Design E.— Elevations , page 38. ROOF PAINT.—We use the best Brown Mineral Oxide of Iron, roasted and double-ground, mixed with boiled linseed oil, grinding them together, and adding only enough turpentine to dry in the air in seventy-two hours. We first dip the shingles, and after they have stood a minute, and before the paint has set, they are carefully gone over with a brush, insuring an even, perfect coat, not obtainable in any ordinary way of painting. All tin roofers, who have experience, know the importance of putting on a second coat. In spite of the best care in laying, more or less paint is scratched off, and without a second coat the roof is not finished. Architects and builders always require it, and if a heavy single coat of paint is given the roof every five or six years, there will be no perceptible wear on the tin, insuring many years’ service. 40. PRACTICAL HiNTS TO BUILDERS. OUR NEW PATENT. Our Queen Anne Shingles are designed expressly to meet a want often expressed for an attractive and artistic roof covering and outside decorating. They are not intended to take the place of our Standard Walter’s Patent, which for general use are incomparable, but less ornamental than the Queen Anne Shingles. They have PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 41 bold, clean cut lines, producing from the effects of light and shade, the most striking and artistic roof yet produced by metallic shingles or tiles. For church spires, belt coursing, towers or mansard roofing, they cannot be excelled. The cut illustrates the kind of finish used at the eaves and verge board. The same ridge coping used for our Standard shingles can be used for this. This shingle must be seen to be appreciated. We recommend the Bronze Metal, or the Galvanized Shingles for use on public or first-class private buildings, because such build¬ ings should be covered with the best roofing material to be had. Made of Tin Plate , Tin Plate Galvanized, 12 oz. Copper and Bronze Metal. Special Prices on application. No. 6.—QUEEN ANNE SHINGLES. Weight per sq. Telegraph Cypher. Standard Tin, Painted, . . . per square, $10.75 123 Anne. “ Old Process,” or “ M. F.,” Painted, . “ 14.50 134 Elizabeth. Galvanized Re-dipped Standard, 14.00 152 Bridget. No. 7.—QUEEN ANNE SUNDRIES. Gable End Finish, Standard Tin, Painted, . per foot, 3c. Mary. Eave Bead, “ “ “ “ 4c. Catherine Valley, “ 7c. Gertrude. SURFACE MEASURE.—All roofers compute roofing jobs by squares, which means 100 square feet, or 10 feet square. If you go to your architect or roofer and ask him how much it will take or cost to cover your roof, he will first ascertain how many square feet there are to be covered; and if, for exam¬ ple, there are 2,500 square feet he will tell you there are twenty-five squares to be covered; and, in order to intelligently supply what is wanted, we put up our shingles in boxes of one square each; that is to say, each box of one square will cover one hundred square feet after they have been put on. 42 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. PRICE LIST OP WALTER’S PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES AND ROOFING SUNDRIES, MANUFACTURED BY THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING COMPANY, 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. All discounts subject to change without notice. And for goods free on board cars or steamers in New York , Terms Cash, unless specially agreed upon, and payable in Checks or Drafts at par in New York. Persons who are not rated in the Commercial Agencies should send references with order to save delay. If Unpainted Shingles are wanted, the price will be 25c. per square less than painted. No. 1.—STANDARD CHARCOAL ROOFING TIN. Weight per sq. Telegraph Cypher. Painted both sides, 14x20, per square, $6.50 84 Roman. 10x14, 6.75 92 William. 7x10, “ “ IX. 20x28. 7-25 “ 7.00 88 James. McClure. No. 2.—IMPORTED IRON OR STEEL PLATES. Painted both sides, 14x20, . . per square, $5.75 83 Michigan 10x14, . . . “ 6.00 90 Montana. No. 3.—“OLD PROCESS ” or “ M.F.” ROOFING TIN. Painted both sides, 14x20, . per square, $8.00 94 Defeat. 10x14, 8.50 102 Beecher. “ “ 7x10, . . . “ 9.00 98 Walter. No. 4.—GALYANIZED “ RE-DIPPED STANDARD.” Re-dipped, 14x20, per square, $7.50’ 103 Kansas. 10x14, . . “ 8.00 105 Iowa. 7x10, . . “ 8.50 1 105 1 Maine. Practical hints to builders. 43 No. 5.—ROOFING SUNDRIES. 12W., 4 4 ' << Climax Ridge Coping, Galvanized, . per foot, 15c. “ “ IX Tin, Painted, . Cortright’s Patent Hip or Ridge, Standard, Painted, . . . . “ Cortright’s Patent Hip or Ridge, Standard, Galvanized, .... Cooper’s Patent Valley, 14 in., Galvanized, “ “ “ 20 “ “ “ “ “ 14 “ Standard, Painted, “ “ “ “ 20 “ “ “ “ Wallace’s Gable End Finish, “ “ “ Galvanized, . Steel Barbed Wire Nails, % in., No. 13 W., “ “ % ** “ 44 44 j 44 “ “ iM “ “ “ “ Tinners’ Snips, Best Brown Paint, (pkgs. extra) Scaffold Brackets, Sheathing Paper, Neponset, “ “ Climax, Cooper’s Conductor Pipe, 3 in., Tin, Painted both sides,.per ft., 7c. Cooper’s Conductor Pipe, 4 in., Tin, Painted both sides,.“ 10c. Cooper’s Conductor Pipe, 3 in., Galvanized, “ 10c. “ “ “ 4 “ “ “ 15c. Wr’t Iron Conductor Pipe Hooks, 3 in., Black, per 100, $2.75 “ “ “ “ “ 4 in., “ “ 3.00 “ “ “ “ “ 3 in., Galv’d, “ 3 -<*> “ 4 in., “ “ 3-75 Elbows, 3 inch, Tin, Painted, . . perdoz., 1.75 “ 4 “ “ “ “ 3 “ “ Galvanized, << . u <« “ 4 Fastenings, Galvanized, . “ Tin, 13c. ioc. 12c. 12c. 15c. IOC. “ I2C. “ 3 C. “ 4 C. per lb., 12c. “ IIC. “ IOC. “ 9c. “ 8c. . per pair, $2.00 . per gal., 1.00 . perdoz., 8.00 . per square, 50c. “ 25c. “ 2.00 “ 2.00 “ 2.50 per 100, 4.50 “ 3.50 Telegraph Cypher. Vermont. Ohio. Charles. Snow. Storm. Wind. Westlake. Adams. Chicago. Buttorff. Alvin. Franklin. Jacob. Fulton. Hackett. Tinner. Paint Harry. Neponset. New. Pell. Holt. Royal. Sun. John. Simon. Hess. Hartley. Moon. Star. German. French. English. Russia. 44 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. HEATING. I once knew a church building committee who planned and built quite a large church, and when I was called in to arrange for heating the building with a large furnace, the furnace committee were astonished when told that the building commit¬ tee had forgotten the fact that the hot-air furnace required a chimney. The construction of many hous¬ es suggests that houses built in the hot months of summer needed no special provision for heating. This is an important subject, and should be carefully considered in the con¬ struction of the plainest house. Always take climate, location and fuel into consideration. The open, fire-place, with fire on the hearth, is without doubt the most cheerful and healthful. This is the favor¬ ite and best mode for plain country homes. But in all instances, for churches and public halls, the open fire-place is not to be depended upon. There is a variety of good steam-heaters and hot-air furnaces to choose from. Consult the parties from whom you buy as to the size of heater required; its location, size of cold-air duct, register, pipe, etc. For small rural churches that have no basement, construct a small room under the front entrance or vestibule; eight feet square, inside measure, is sufficient. Near its floor have a cold-air entrance leading to the furnace. Cover the opening with wire netting to pre¬ vent the entrance of mice. Use brick for the room, building the walls eight inches thick; leave openings 2^ x 4 inches, about one foot apart all around the bottom next to the floor. Carry the wall close to the ceiling,'and make it tight by plastering carefully inside and out PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 45 where it joins the ceiling. Cover the ceiling, by nailing to joists, with bright sheets of tin, and whitewash the brick-work inside. For entrance make a door 6x3 feet. A plain wooden one will answer. In the aisle of the church, immediately over this room, put a large grating, such as your furnace-men will suggest. In this room place your furnace, and have it large enough to heat the room above during the coldest weather without excessive firing. With a larger capacity than necessary, the furnace will last longer, burn less coal, and give better results in every respect. As the furnace will radiate consid¬ erable heat, this can be utilized by running a pipe of proper size from the room to the vestibule or some other room. The objection to using this heat in the church is the noise of firing up, which would be annoying during church service. However, a furnace properly attended will not need firing during church service. Remember, a large volume of warm air is what you want, and not a small volume of hot air. Never cover the grating or close the cold-air duct to cool off while there is fire in the furnace, but open the doors or windows of the church and check the fire. The closing of the grating or cold-air duct will injure the castings of the furnace by overheating them. CLOSE SHEATHING THE BEST. While a rain-proof roof can be made with our shingles, our sys¬ tem, as well as all metal or slate roofing should not be put upon open sheathing. If walked upon the metal will not support the weight, and bends out of shape, and the roof is blamed. In high latitudes where we have driving storms of fine snow or “blizzards,” we specify close sheathing covered by paper (using same rules as for laying slate). We will then guarantee a perfect roof. THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. 46 _ CTHife i A « % i \ ♦ PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. THE CISTERN. Three things are all that are nec¬ essary to supply any family with the purest and best water in the world for drinking, cooking and washing purposes: a well constructed cistern, a clean roof and a rain-fall. These are within the reach of every one able to own a home. By a cistern we mean an excavation in the earth from twelve to twenty-five feet deep. Dig deep if you want cold water all the year round. From eight¬ een to twenty-five feet will produce it. If your cistern is dug in a clayey soil, there is no use of brick lining; but if in gravel, sandy or rocky soil, line the inside with hard, well burnt brick, and do the work well; using for mortar equal parts of hydraulic lime and clean, sharp sand. When completed, plaster the inside care¬ fully with the same mortar. If the walls are clay, plaster immediately on the sides and bottom, without lining with brick. No roofing material is better for collecting chemically pure water than tin, and none so bad as wood shingles. They hold dirt which no ordinary shower will wash off, and furnish organic matter which is disagreeable to the taste and smell; the porous nature of wood makes it the home of myriads of insects, the remains of which are eventually deposited in the cistern and poison its waters. No such objections can be urged against tin roofing. A short shower cleanses it thoroughly. Water-pipes leading into the cistern in every case should have a cut-off attachment within easy reach. There are several on the market, but those having no inside arrangement to get out of order, or obstruct the direct passage of water into either the cistern or waste-pipe, are the best. The water should be strained before entering the cistern. This can be built CUT-OFF ATTACHMENT. A . To connect with down pipe. B. Outlet for waste water. C. Leads to filter or cistern. D. Is adjustable to fit box C. JE. Fastenings to wall of house. F. Side view of D. O. Handle to adjust 2). PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 47 of brick and be underground, or a cask can be used above ground. A strong, iron-bound linseed oil barrel answers the purpose. Its con¬ struction is very simple. Take out one end of the cask and perfo¬ rate it with a sufficient number of one-inch auger holes; lay four brick on edge in the bottom of the cask, and let the perforated cask head rest upon them. Then fill the cask three-quarters full of char¬ coal, pounding it down on top pretty hard. Put on top of the charcoal clean, coarse gravel to within three inches of the top of cask; make a covering with an opening to receive the water which flows from the roof, and convey the water from the bottom of cask to the cistern. At least once a year this filter should be emptied and cleansed, putting in new charcoal and washing the gravel care¬ fully. Let no summer months’ water run into the cistern. See that the first rain of a shower is used to wash the dust and soot from your roof before it is turned into the cistern, and you will have an abundance of water not equaled by any well or spring. BUILDING PAPERS. NEPONSET PAPER is abso¬ lutely water-proof and air-tight, is clean to handle, not tarred felt, but . far more durable. Its resistance to air and dampness renders it unsur¬ passed under clapboards, iron roofing and wood or tin shingles. CLIMAX is a heavy, clean, pink colored paper; useful for any purpose where building paper is required; is much cheaper than Neponset, but not water-proof. The use of building pa- \fpj\DE I per under roofing or clapboards adds ' g reat U t0 the ease of warming a / „ a t building. By its use you save fuel and your house is more comfortable. Its cost is nominal compared with its advantages. We keep a large stock and fill orders promptly. 48 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. COLORS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM. Blue and yellow makes green. White and yellow makes buff. White, yellow and black makes drab. White and black makes lead. White and black makes gray. White, black and blue makes pearl. White and lake makes pink. White, blue and black makes slate. Red, black and blue makes brown. Red, black and yellow makes maroon. Red and yellow makes orange. Blue and lake makes purple. U. S. Marine Barracks, Navy Yard, Pensacola, Fla., October 22d, 1887. Sirs: —In compliance with your request, I have to say that about a year ago 1 was called upon to decide which of several kinds of roofing material to select for two barrack buildings, which I was constructing for the Government at this place. Owing to the heat and moisture of the climate, very destructive to wood, and the proximity of the Gulf of Mexico, which makes what is known as a salt atmosphere, very injurious to iron roofing, I was induced to try your system, and ordered the 14x20 size, I, C. Standard, some painted and some galvanized. As it was previously almost unknown to me, I had to assume the risk of its success, and have since watched it very closely; the more so, as it was laid by soldiers entirely unfamiliar with it. After the first rain a close inspection failed to reveal a single leak. I have had it inspected after every heavy rain since then with the same result. On the 20th inst. we had the severest gale for many years, and the roofs not only resisted it in every way, but there was no rattle, which could not be said of our other tin roofs (old system). You can refer any one to me for commendation of these points which are established; also of its architectural beauty, and I have little doubt as to the rest, for we painted it very carefully on both sides. I am, Sirs, very respectfully yours, HENRY CLAY COCHRANE, Captain U. S. Marine Corps, Commanding Post. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS, 49 EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE. OUR GUARANTEE. We guarantee our shingles as follows: If you will use them, and they are properly put on in accordance with our instiuctions, and if they do not then give satisfaction, we agree to replace your roof, free of expense to you, with equally expensive material, any time within two years from the time you put them on. In addition to this, we may be able to give you a local reference, as our goods are in use in every State and Territory. We call your attention to the price list, and we will be pleased to make you discounts on application. THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., 510 to 520 East 20th St., New York City. 50 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS, Design J .—Side Elevation . The plans and elevations ot cottages presented in this book have each been specially prepared for some individual by Frank L. Smith, of 22 School Street, Boston, Mass., from whom specifications and full sets of details can be procured. Sink practical hInTs To builders. 5* First Floor. Design J.—(. Elevations , pages 49 and 50 .) 52 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. APPLICATION OF PATENT RIDGE OR HIP COPING. This cut is a good illustration of the Patent Ridge, which is also used as Hip Cop¬ ing. It is secured to the roof comb by nail¬ ing through the flange, which rests on each side of the comb. It makes a plain, neat finish; is of great assistance to workmen not skilled in metal roofing, and its cost is no more than the labor and material necessary in making the regular standing seam used by roofers in finishing the comb of sheet metal roofs. SHOWING CLIMAX RIDGE AND GABLE FINISH. practical hints To builders. 53 VENTILATION. As you value health, study well this important subject, which is oftener neglected in constructing dwellings than any other detail. An experienced and observant man can pick from those whom he meets on the street men or women who habitually sleep in badly ven¬ tilated rooms. The florist will study and practice the best means to ventilate his propagating house, and ignore the necessity of the same principle for himself and family. Everything that breathes—and what living thing does not ?—needs a change of air to remain in a healthy condition. Leaves are the lungs of plants, and, deprived of this change, soon assume a delicate, sickly hue. Why should the human family, in full possession of reasoning pow¬ ers, ignore the lesson that is every day before them? By ventilation we mean a system that will constantly supply the dwelling with fresh air; at the same time it draws the vitiated atmosphere from each hall and room in the house. This can be done during the process of erection in a simple, effectual and inexpensive manner. Even if it should cost more than you feel inclined to pay, the result will justify the expense. There is no better way of creating upward draught than the open fire-place, or a flue built with an opening near the floor. Such flues should not be less than 8x8 inches for an ordinary size bed¬ room, and should, if possible, be built alongside of the chimney flue, and extend through the house-top without openings, except the one nearest the floor in the room it starts from. As vitiated air is heavier than pure air, and is always nearest the floor, the artificial draught caused by a long, upright flue is constantly at work carrying the lower atmosphere from each room in which these upward and outward draught flues are built. To supply the rooms with fresh air, corresponding flues must be built similar in size and construction to the above. Commence them with outside openings about on a level with the first floor joists, extending upward, and end with openings inward near the ceiling. Each of these openings outside and inside the house should be covered with coarse wire cloth. That 54 PRACTICAL hint's TO BUILDERS. made from tinned or galvanized No. 16 wire, with one-half in. meshes, is the best. Care should be taken in building these flues to have them smoothly plastered on the inside. An ornamental finish can be used at each end if desired. By this arrangement a steady flow of fresh air, both night and day, is secured without the ill effects of strong draughts. Do not try to economize by using one flue for two or more rooms. Good results are only secured by using a set of flues for each room or hall. I have seen ventilating flues built to open through the cornice. That is a bad plan, for even a slight wind will check the draught while blowing against that side. If the flues are properly finished after passing through the roof the wind will increase the draught. The above suggestions answer equally as well for frame houses. It is easy to construct wood flues between the weather¬ boarding and lath. COOPER’S CONDUCTOR OR LEADER PIPE. The object of this invention is to supply the builder with a con¬ ductor-pipe that will not burst after freezing, which all pipes without provision for expansion are liable when water is frozen solid in them. The peculiarity of the joint lies in the wedge principle, applied in a manner which forces the rim of the inside lap hard against the overlapping end with strength sufficient to do without soldering the joints. Besides this, each joint is provided with a fastening which pre¬ vents the pipe from settling. This fastening may or may not be used, but if used in connection with the ordinary pipe hook (which does not prevent the pipe from settling) makes a very superior fastening. The V-shaped corrugation prevents bursting, as it allows the pipe to expand when frozen, thus preventing its bursting We make two sizes, three and four inches in diameter, twenty-eight inches long, using tin plate, which we galvanize with zinc after it is formed, making a pipe superior to any galvanized iron pipe of equal weight. We make the same not galvanized, but painted one coat inside and out with linseed oil and oxide of iron paint. (For prices, see page 43.) PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 55 COOPER’S CONDUCTOR OR LEADER PIPE. AMPLE PROVISION FOR EXPANSION 56 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS * w tn D o' O o in X M m- > Pi o i-i O o h> o in N 6 1—1 * 4-J H 03 o U % O T3* rt 1 E £ V-) 03 w W > w c/) ERACTtCAt HINTS TO BUILDERS. 57 Design B.—( Elevations , page 56.) NAILS. The above Steel Wire Barbed Nails are superior to any cut nail made. Are lighter, stronger and easier to drive. Holding firmer in the wood, and having a larger flat head, they hold the tin to the roof boards much better, are nearly double the quantity to the pound, and therefore fully as cheap. COMPARATIVE PITCH 58 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS, PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 59 DIRECTIONS FOR LAYING WALTER’S PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES. Commence at the lower left-hand corner. In starting be partic¬ ular to see that you start straight with the eaves of the building. To do this it is best to draw a chalk line about twelve in¬ ches from the eaves; this distance leaves two inches to project from the eaves, which in many cases is more than sufficient. If you use our Gable End Finish (Cut I) it saves the trouble of fitting the shingles to the verge board, and adds to the ap¬ pearance of the roof. After nailing the Gable End Fin¬ ish to its place, press the left- hand edge of the first shingle well under the fold of the Gable End Finish, and before nailing it hook two or three shingles with the top edge on a line with your chalk line; then remove the loose shingles, and nail the first one which is held to its proper place by the Gable End Finish. By doing this in starting each course you are sure of a straight line if you follow correctly the gauge lines at the top of each shingle. If your roof has a pitch of six inches to the foot, or steep¬ er, let the bottom edge of the Cut I.—Showing Gable End Finish and commence¬ ment of first two courses. 6o PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. shingle rest just above the lower gauge line on the top of the under¬ lying shingle, as shown in Cut A. But if the pitch of the roof is less gles of either wood or metal. Should there be a gutter formed in the roof at the eave, let the shingle rest on it as you would in using the ordinary wood shingle. (Remember, every other course com¬ mences with a half shin¬ gle, as shown in cuts A amlB.) The same rules that govern the laying of slate or the common wood shingle along val¬ leys, or about chimneys and dormer windows, are applicable to ours, except the tin shingles are bent up against the sides of chimneys, which cannot be done with wood or slate. When than six inches to the foot, let the shingle entirely cover the lower gauge line, as shown in Cut B. We advise against the use of our shingles on roofs of less pitch than five inches to the foot. As a rule, we think any roof that can be walked over with safety is too flat for shin- PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 6l our shingles turn up against the sides of chimneys or brick walls, in¬ sert flashing by sawing out the mortar joint above the line of tin work; where the upper edge of our shingles butts against the brick wall, as they do on the lower side of chimneys, cut them off on the line where the chimney comes to the roof, and use a strip of tin bent in this manner. (See Cut F.) The upper end at A is to fit in mor¬ tar joint. The lower edge, B, is nailed to the sheathing before the shingles are put on. The upper ends of shingles are then to be pressed up under the fold, C. Great care should be used in finishing about chimneys and dormers, the details of which cannot well be explained to suit each case; but a workman of ordinary skill can suggest the proper manner in which the work should be done to secure thoroughly tight work. It is much easier to secure this result with the use of our shingles than it is with either wood or slate. Where the upper end of shin¬ gle butts against the sides of a frame house, use the same means as on the lower side of chimneys, only let there be no bend at the point A, as shown in Cut F; but let it extend an inch or so up under the weather boarding. Where the weather boarding is vertical there is no way of making tight work but to put the tin work, as before described, back of the vertical weather board. In laying the valley, cut the tin so it extends to about one-half inch over the lock, and bend it under, as shown in Cut D. We fur¬ nish to each customer a small pair of hand-tongs, which is handy to turn this edge over and pinch it together after the shingle is laid. CutD. 62 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. The Cut D represents the shingles laid from the valley. In start¬ ing from the valley it is best to hold several shingles together, or tack them at the top, then with a straight-edge mark and cut where they overlap the valley; and with the hand-tongs edge and lock them to the valley, as shown in Cut D. Use the Hip Coping by nailing the edges to the roof boards, and press the shingle up under the folds on each side after they are cut to suit the angle of the hip. (See Cut E.) As plain as this appears, we have known men to nail the Hip Coping through the folds and on the top of the shingles. We are, therefore, particular to say wherever this Hip, or our Plain Ridge Co¬ ping (which is the same thing) is used it should be nailed to the roof boards before the shin¬ gles are put on. The fold is made expressly to receive the edge of the shingles. Cut E shows this coping and the manner of apply- J CutE. ing it. We desire to impress upon our customers, who live in the North¬ ern States, where blizzards and severe snow storms are frequent, the necessity of using close sheathing, and if the sheathing is not close, the use of sheathing paper, to be laid underneath the shingles; it adds greatly to the warmth of the house in winter, and prevents small particles of snow from entering, it costs but little, and should always be used under wood, slate or tin shingles where the best pro¬ tection is desired. DO NOT Hammer Down the Joints or Lock. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 63 A PERFECT ROOF. The best can only be obtained by using good materials, worked into the best form that theory and experience can suggest. WALTER’S PATENT “STANDARD” and COOPER’S PATENT “QUEEN ANNE” METALLIC SHINGLES AND SIDING, made from Tin Plate, Steel Plate, Galvanized Tin Plate, Bronze Metal, and Copper, are unrivaled for roof covering. Because they have a perfect lock, using no cleats, springs or exposed seams. Because they have no exposed fastenings; all nail heads are cov¬ ered as perfectly as those used for wood shingles. Because they can be applied without the necessity of soldering, and with no other tools than a hammer, a small pair of hand-tongs and tin shears. Because they break joints by starting each alternate course with a half shingle, thus bringing the centre of the bottom of each shingle astraddle of the locked shingle below, securely binding the same and preventing rattling. Because they are easily and rapidly put on, requiring no odd pieces at the eaves, gables or comb. 64 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Because they lessen the expense of insurance, which extends not only to the building but to furniture and goods contained therein. Because they do not crack, split, warp, fall off, rust or burn. Because there are no cross-seams or joints where rain or moisture can settle and cause decay. Because we furnish with our shingles, at moderate cost, Valleys, Gable Strips, Ridge and Hip Coping, that not only improves the finish of exterior, but assists the workman to an extent that les¬ sens the cost of applying. Manufactured by THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City, and for sale by Dealers in all the principal cities of the United States and Canada. From BARTLETT HARDWARE CO., Freeport, Ill., January 10th, 18SS. The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., New York City. Dear Sirs:—I send you photo, of my house that you may see how hand¬ some a Roof the 7x10 Shingles make. You thought the 10x14 would have been better, but this is the finest Roof in this country, and we expect to sell some the present year. Everybody admires it. Please quote for the coming season’s trade. Very respectfully, F. BARTLETT, President. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 65 WHAT OUR GOODS ARE. In offering our goods to the public, we desire to say, briefly, that the Walter s Patent Metallic Shingles and Siding Plates have now been before this country for nearly six years, upwards of nine thousand buildings have been covered with them in the United States and Canada, and we feel warranted in referring to the owners of every building so covered. Our shingles have a concealed nailing flange, the entire length of the shingle on one side, and a perfect lock with a concealed gut¬ ter at the side of the nailing flange that provides for expansion and contraction , with sufficient ventilation to prevent sweating on the under-side, (causing rust,) so common in the cross seams of flat lock and standing seam, now in use. Our Galvanized (Re-Dipped) Shingle is our Standard Tin Shingle galvanized; and, as every square has twenty-five pounds of zinc coating, in addition to the first coat of tin, it will be seen why it is superior to any galvanized iron made. Our “ Old Process” prices are designed to cover such grades of double-coated plates as “Old Style,” “M.F.,” “Phelp’s Triple Plate,” “ Gilbertson’s Old Method,” and “Tregoning Old Process,” all su¬ perior to the Standard grades, and higher in price. We quote all but Galvanized, painted both sides. If any size or kind is ordered un¬ painted, the price will be 25 cents per square less. Our Steel Plate Shingles are made from sheets of Bessemer steel rolled as smooth as tin plate, they are painted the same as the Stan¬ dard Shingles, and when laid on a roof cannot be distinguished from them. They should be painted every five years with pure linseed oil and oxide of iron (brown mineral). They will.not bear neglect; in this respect they differ from shingles made from tin plate. The price is somewhat less, but the greater durability of the Tin Shingles is worth more than the difference in price. 66 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. We make our shingles in four sizes: The smallest, 7 x 10, (show¬ ing an exposed surface, after laid, of 5^2 x 9 inches,) is designed for Mansards, Spires, Siding, and other upright work. The 10 x 14, (ex¬ posed surface, 8^ xn^ inches,) is the popular size; and while it works to the best advantage on complicated roofs, it is equally good for plain ones. The 14 x 20, (exposed surface, 12 x 17^2 inches,) is sised largely on the plainer roofs, where a saving in price and labor of putting on is an item. The 20 x 28, (exposed surface, 17^ x 25^ inches,) is made from heavier metal, and is designed for warehouses, and other large surfaces; and any of the larger shingles can be used for siding equally as well. We are prepared to make any of the above sizes from any spe¬ cial brand of tin plate in the market, but for our Standard goods, which we carry in stock, we use a first-class grade of roofing tin plate, warranted perfect. SAMPLES. We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our Walter’s Patent Shingles (three pieces) to any address in the United States on receipt of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the expense, but we propose to make the cost as light as possible to those interested in building. THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., 510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 67 Walter’s Patent Standard Metallic Shingles. Cooper’s Patent Queen Anne Metallic Shingles. PUBLIC BUILDINGS ON WHICH THE ABOVE METAL SHINGLES ARE USED. RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. Independent Pres. Church, Savannah, Ga. South-West Pres. Church, Omaha, Neb. Methodist Church, Stony Point, N. Y. Methodist Church, Graniteville, Conn. Methodist Church, Broad River, Conn. Asbury Methodist Church, Providence, R. I. Second Methodist Church, Kingston, N. Y. Pisgah Methodist Church, Pisgah, Md. Methodist Church, Thomasville, Ga. Rim St. Methodist Church, Nashville, Tenn. East Nashville Methodist Church, Nash¬ ville, Tenn. Methodist Church, Manheim, Pa. Roman Catholic Church, Trinidad, Col. Roman Catholic Church, Albuquerque, New Mexico. Holy Apostles P. E. Church, St. Clair, Pa. R. C. Church of St. Cecelia, New York City. R. C. Apostolic Church, Toronto, Ont. St. Patrick’s R. C. Cathedral, Ottawa, Canada. Baptist Church, Tura, India. Winthrop St. Baptist Church, Taunton, Mass. Second Baptist Church, Lawrence, Mass. Berkeley Ave. Bap. Church, Berkeley,Ya. Baptist Church, Danbury, Conn. Colored Baptist Church, A ugusta, Ga. Christ Episcopal Church, Richmond, Ya. St John’s Episcopal Chapel, Richmond, Ya. Christ Episcopal Church, Port Tobacco, Md. St. Clement’s Episcopal Church, Chicago, Ill. 68 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Mission Church. Aintab, Turkey. Mission Church, Kiota, Japan. Bethany Chapel, Troy, N. Y. Colonial Beach Chapel, Ya. Plymouth Church, Charleston, S. C. M. E. Church, McMinville, Tenn. First M. E. Church, Jackson,. Mich. Christian Church, Little Rock, Ark. Second Baptist Church, Little Rock, Ark. First Pres. Church, Gainesville, Fla. M. E. Church, Beatrice, Neb. Round Hill Church, Ya. St. Paul Lutheran Church, Lititz, Pa. Salvation Army Barracks, South Nor¬ walk, Conn. Methodist Church, Salt Lake City. Christian Church, Belton, Texas. Salvation Army Barracks, Matteawan, N. Y. First Cong. Church, Daytona, Fla. RAILROADS. Savannah, Florida and Western R. R. North-Eastern R. R. of South Carolina. Western and North Carolina R. R. New York, Susquehanna and Western R. R. Chesapeake and Ohio R. R. Florida Railway and Navigation Company. South Florida Railway. Virginia Midland Railway. Richmond and Danville R. R. Newport News and Mississippi Yalley R. R. Chicago and Evanston R. R. Jacksonville, Tampa and Key West R. R. Interstate Rapid Transit Co., Kansas City, Mo. Kansas City Cable Railway, Kansas City, Mo. Union Passenger Railroad Co., Richmond, Ya. Franklin Avenue Line, St. Louis, Mo. West Nashville Railroad Depot, West Nashville, Tenn. St. Johns and Halifax R. R. Maryland Central R. R. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. DePaw College, Greencastle, Ind. Mississippi Industrial Institute and Col¬ lege, Columbus, Miss. St. John’s College, Tremont, N. Y. Las Yegas . College, Las Yegas, New Mexico. Loyola College, Collington, Md. Woodstock College, Woodstock, Md. Medical College, Nashville, Tenn. Dayel College, Sparta, Tenn. Dakota University, Mitchell, Dakota. Public School, Richfield Springs, N. Y. Public School, Greenville, Ky. Public School, McCook, Neb. Public School, Dodge City, Kansas. Public School, Marion, Ill. Public School, Elizabeth, Pa. Public School, Freeport, Ill. Public School, Paw Paw, Ill. Public School, Hutchinson, Minn. Thirteenth District School, Nashville, Tenn. Tenth District School, Nashville, Tenn. Thirteenth Ward Grammar School, Nash¬ ville, Tenn. Fogg High School, Nashville, Tenn. Caldwell High School, Nashville, Tenn. Tampa High School, Tampa, Fla. Public School, Forward Township, Alle¬ ghany Co., Pa. Tarbox School, Nashville, Tenn. Searight School, Nashville, Tenn. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Hotels and State and County Buildings. Florida State Capitol, Tallahassee, Fla. Washtenaw County Jail, Ann Arbor, Mich. Bristol County House of Correction, New Bedford, Mass. Government Penitentiary, Kingston, Ont. Main Street Central Police Station, Charleston, S. C, United States Soldiers’ Home, Leaven¬ worth, Kansas. Wm. Houston Home, Charleston, S. C. Deaf and Dumb Institute, Jacksonville, Ill. Insane Asylum, Fort Steilacoom, Wash. Ter. United States Marine Barracks, Pensa¬ cola, Fla. Colorado State Insane Asylum, Pueblo, Col. Asylum for Feeble Minded, Beatrice, Neb. Tenn. Insane Asylum, Nashville, Tenn. County Asylum, Sparta, Tenn. City Hospital, Charleston, S. C. Towers of Minneapolis Exhibition Build¬ ing, Minneapolis, Minn. Horticultural Hall, World’s Exposition, New Orleans, La. Plymount County Agricultural Society Building, Brockton, Mass. Public Library, Coldwater, Mich. Fair Association Buildings, St. Louis, Mo. Grand Army of the Republic Hall, Janes- ville, Iowa. Caledonian Rink, Ottawa, Canada. Park Building, West Nashville, Tenn. Concordia Association Building, Little Rock, Ark. U. S. Commissioners’ Building, Salt Lake City, Utah. 69 ' Board of Trade Bldg., Little Rock, Ark. Exchange Building, West Nashville, Tenn. Lyons Water Works Buildings, Lyons, N. Y. Water Works Buildings, Battle Creek, Mich. City Water Works Buildings, Ottawa, Canada. Barclay St. Ferry House, New York City. Oakland Mills, Taunton, Mass. I. 0. 0. F. Building, Port Clinton, Ohio. I. 0. 0. F. Building, Savannah, Ga. Masonic Temple, Savannah, Ga. Masonic Temple, Daytona, Fla. Union County Court House, Union, S. C. Ford County Court House, Dodge City, Kansas. Ontonogan County Building, Houghton, Mich. Court House, Jonesborough, Ark. Hamilton County Court House, Texas. Menard County Court House, Texas. H. I. Kimball Hotel, Atlanta, Ga. Burlington Hotel, Burlington, Vermont. Fayetteville Hotel, Fayetteville, N. C. Mitchell Hotel, Thomasville, Ga. Arlington Hotel, Augusta, Ga. Summerville Hotel, Augusta, Ga. Cottage Hotel, Nunda, N. Y. City Hotel, Beatrice, Neb. Opera House, Junction City, Kansas. Grand Opera House, St. Louis, Mo. Overland Casino, Nashville, Tenn. Opera House, Tavares, Fla. North River Steamboat Co., Haverstraw, N. Y. New Central Station, Charleston, S. C. Lower Station House Stables, Charleston, S. C. Mechanics’ Union Hall, No. 1, Charles¬ ton, S. C. Oneida County Asylum, Rome, N. Y. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. • 70 TESTIMONIALS. St. Louis, Mo., April 26th, 1888. Gentlemen:—We have used your Walter’s Metal Shingles on the most prom¬ inent buildings of our city, all of which have given universal satisfaction both in appearance and durability. As for us, we can say we give them the preference above all others, knowing that when once up there is none its equal. Yours truly, MESKER BROS. Augusta, Ga., April 30th, 1888. Gentlemen:—I have in the past six years used and carefully compared all the leading makes of Patent Metallic Shingles, and I unhesitatingly pronounce your Walter’s Patent the best shingle on the market. They are simple, and easy to put on, and for a handsome, light and durable roof they are without a parallel. I have used them on many public as well as private buildings in this city, and they have in all instances given the highest possible satisfaction, which has won me the esteem and confidence of the public. Yours truly, DAVID SLUSKY, Augusta, Ga., April 30th, 1888. Gentlemen:—Mr. David Slusky used the Walter’s Patent Shingles on my house about 18 months ago. They have given entire satisfaction, and in my opinion are equal to, if not better than, any in use. Yours truly, JOHN D. WRIGHT. Las Vegas College, Las Vegas, N. M., April 29th, 1888. Gentlemen:—I am glad to inform you that we are very well satisfied with the Walter’s Metal Shingles with which the new stone addition of our college is covered. It is about three years since the roof was laid, and your shingles are keeping yet a very neat and nice appearance, defying bravely the eating and inclemency of the weather. Yours truly, C. M. CAPILUPI, S.J. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 7 * Office of Superintendent, DePaw University, Green Castle, Ind., April 30th, 1888. Gentlemen:—We beg to say that your Walter’s Shingles with which our college buildings are covered are very satisfactory. E. ,T. CHAFFEE, Sup’t. Howell, Mich., April 26th, 1888. Gentlemen:—Last July I gave William Pipp & Sons, of Howell, Mich., a. contract to build my house, and through their recommendation I was induced to use your Tin Shingles. I am well convinced that it is the best roofing made; it makes a very attractive and durable roof. I can recommend them in the high¬ est terms. Yours truly, O. J. PARKER. Colorado State Insane Asylum, Pueblo, Col., April 27th, 1888. Gentlemen:—I wish to say that the Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles with which our buildings are covered, we believe to be superior to anything heretofore introduced in the West in that line. Yours truly, P. R. THOMBS, Sup't. Daytona, Fla., April 27th, 1888. Gentlemen:—We have used your Metallic Shingles on the First Congrega¬ tional Church at this place. As to durability, the roof has been on now about three years, and seems as good as the day it was put on. Its appearance is beautiful, and its rain shedding qualities are perfect. We like the roof first rate, and can conscientiously recommend them to others. Yours very truly, CHAS. M. BINGHAM, Pastor. Ithaca, N. Y., April 28th, 1888. Gentlemen:—We have put the Walter’s Metallic Shingles upon many build¬ ings in Ithaca, and in each instance our customers have been perfectly satisfied. In our opinion they are the most durable roof we have handled. The writer has his house covered with the Galvanized Tin Shingles, and believes he has the most durable roof in Ithaca, because they need no painting, or care of any kind whatever. While costing more at the start, in the end the matter of economy is with the Walter’s Shingles. Yours truly, C.J. RUMSEY & CO. 72 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Brockton, Mass., April 27th, 1888. Gentlemen:—The roofs that I have covered here with your shingles have given good satisfaction to the owners, and all that have seen them. For a storm¬ proof roof as well as an ornamental one I think they are the best covering I have put on. Yours truly, JAS. P. BEAL. Taunton, Mass., April 25th, 1888. Gentlemen:—We have used in less than two years about 800 squares of your Metallic Shingles, and they have given the best of satisfaction in every case, and in our opinion are far ahead in durability and appearance of either slate or wooden shingles. Yours truly, N. CRAPO & BRO. Winthrop St. Baptist Church, Taunton, Mass., May 5th, 1S88. Gentlemen:—We are in every way fully satisfied with the Walter’s Metal Shingles which you put on the roof of our church two years ago. It would be difficult to desire a superior roofing. Yours very truly, J. K. WILSON, Pastor. Centenarian M. E. Church, Beatrice, Neb., May 2d, 1888. Gentlemen:—I consider the Walter’s Metal Shingle an improvement over anything of the past; superior to slate in appearance; of less weight and cost and just as durable. When properly put in place it can but give the best of satis¬ faction. Can heartily recommend it. Respectfully, A. C. CALKINS, Pastor. Davenport, Iowa, April 26th, 1888. Gentlemen;—I beg to say that the Walter’s Tin Shingles used by us have given entire satisfaction. The writer has his dwelling covered with same, and considers he has one of the best roofs in the city both in appearance and durability. Respectfully yours, WALTER HENDER. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 73 Salem, N. J., May 5th, 188S. Gentlemen:—Last summer Mr. John McCune, contractor and builder, of our city, built a house for me on the corner of Third and Broadway Streets. After carefully investigating the different kinds of roofing, I decided through Mr. McCune’s recommendation and my own judgment to place your shingles on my 25 x 60 mansard roof, and also my back building. It affords me pleasure to state after their having experienced both the hot suns of last summer and the frosts and ice of last winter, that they have proven entirely satisfactory, and it affords me pleasure to recommend them to any one contemplating building. Yours truly, ALBERT STEINER. Matteawan, N. Y. April 25th, 1888. Gentlemen:—I take great pleasure in giving my unprejudiced opinion of Walter’s Metallic Shingles. I have been using them for the last three years, and have never had any fault found with them of all the roofs that I have put on, and I have had good practical tinners proclaim to me that they consider it the best tin roofing they have ever seen. It is the roof for me when I am build¬ ing myself. Any person adopting this roof, by giving it a coat of metallic paint every five years, I will warrant them to have a tight roof for two generations. Yours truly, SAM’L McKEE. Minneapolis, Minn., April 27th, i 883 . Gentlemen:—I have put on in the northwest large amounts of your Metallic Shingles for others, and also covered my own residence some five years ago, and can heartily recommend your goods to any one desiring a substantial and absolutely tight roof of fine appearance, which gives a roof much better than slate and a lower price. Most respectfully yours, M. H. CRITTENDEN. Church of the Holy Apostles, St. Clair, Pa., April 25th, i 883 . Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles have been the covering to the Rectory of this church since September, 1885. They were put on by novices under disadvantageous circumstances, and have withstood every test that a Pennsylvania mountainous district changeable weather could give. I talk tin shingles to all my friends. Yours truly, CHAS. A. MARKS, Rector. 74 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Ann Arbor, Mich., May 4th, 1888. Gentlemen:—My roof was the first one in this city on which your tin shingles were used, and they have given entire satisfaction. I would not exchange it for any other roof that I know of. Yours truly, GEO. W. MOORE. Elmira, N. Y., April 27th, 1888. Gentlemen:—We take pleasure in speaking a good word for the Walter’s Metal Shingles. We find in every case where used they have given entire satis¬ faction; they make a nice looking roof, and a good roofing to put on. We consider it a cheap and durable roof for one who can appreciate that kind of work. Yours truly, G. A. GRIDLEY & SON. Albany, N. Y., April 25th, 1888. Gentlemen:—We take pleasure in stating that we consider your Metal Shingles the best in the market. We have used them for the past three years with a good record wherever applied, Very respectfully, WASSON & CO. Brockton, Mass., April 27th, 1888. Gentlemen:—Two years ago the Brockton Agricultural Society covered the roof of their main building with your tin shingles, and I am pleased to inform you that they have given perfect satisfaction. Yours truly, H. W. ROBINSON, President. New Milford, Del., May 15th, 1888. Perhaps it may be of interest to you to know my views of the Tin Shin¬ gle Roofing purchased of W. f\ Cullen, of Milford, Del. I can recommend in the highest degree their use, as they possess many advantages over any other material used for that purpose. They require no skilled labor, and are as du¬ rable as any tin roof can possibly be. I have watched it during every rain¬ storm since it was laid, and not one drop has passed through it to my gratifica¬ tion, and to the credit of the inventor. I invite the inspection of any one who may contemplate putting on a roof upon any building. Respectfully, P. H. STORM. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 75 Xenia, Ohio, February 15th, 1888. Gentlemen:—There are at present some four or five different shingles in this market, and with one exception the Walter’s is the only shingle in use. It is giving good satisfaction, and is the best shingle I have seen. Respectfully yours, JOSHUA WOLF. Wapaloneta, Ohio, May 15th, 1888. Gentlemen:—I have been using and putting on your Shingles for the last four years, and find them the best and most ornamental I have ever used. My customers are delighted with them. I expect a very large trade the coming season. You can use my testimonial any way you wish. Yours very truly, F. E. KOLTER. Natchez, Miss., February 16th, 1888. Gentlemen:—I have been in the tin roofing business for the past 20 years, and I believe that the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles make the best tin roofing of any.of the other patents that are now on the market. I have put on hundreds of squares of them, and they have given me and the property owners entire satisfaction. I will further say that each box of shingles I have bought from them has covered one hundred square feet of roof, which will be understood by tinners to be a great satisfaction in ordering roofing, as the rule is that patent roofing falls short after being laid. I have often been asked by different manu¬ facturing companies for my opinion of the roofing that they manufacture, but this is the first time that I have ever given my opinion, and I would not give my opinion now if the Walter’s Patent Tin Shingles did not deserve it. I am, truly yours, P. W. MULVIHILL. Baton Rouge, La., February 24th, 1888. Gentlemen:—I beg to say that I have used the Walter’s Patent Tin Shin¬ gles for some time, and they have given satisfaction. I think they make the best roofing that can be put on for the money. Yours truly, M. J. WILLIAMS. Milford, Delaware, May 10th, 1888. Gentlemen:—Would say that the Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles, put on the Electric Light Station in this town, by W. P. Cullen, are giving entire satis¬ faction, making a handsome and durable roof, much preferable in our judgment to the regular tin roofs usually put on such buildings. Very truly yours, W. T. JOHNSON. 76 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. Canajoharie, N. Y., May 10th, 1888. Gentlemen:—Having Walter’s Metal Shingles on two of my buildings, put on by F. H. Hodge, the new Courier building being sided with them, I feel that I am competent to speak of the merits of the shingles. My experience has been entirely satisfactory, and I regard the Metallic Shingles as the best roofing and siding extant. If I were to build a hundred houses, and it were possible to use these shingles, I would not hesitate one moment, as I regard them as cheaper and better than any other covering in the market. Yours, &c., WILLET F. COOK. Joliet, III., May 8th, i888> Gentlemen:—All of the roofs we have covered with Walter’s Patent Metal Shingles are giving excellent satisfaction. We recommend them every time. Yours, BARRETT & SON. Joliet, III., May 8th, 1888. Gentlemen:—I like the Walter’s Patent Metal Shingles very much; they make a very good and neat roof, and are perfectly tight. Respectfully, JUHAN BAMES, Architect. Sherman, Texas, May 2d, 1888. Sirs:—We have been using your shingles for the past five years; they have always given satisfaction, and we never hesitate to give a guarantee on them for five years. Yours, G. MELTON & SON, Architects and Builders. Hospital for the Insane in Washington Territory, Fort Steilacoom, W t . T., May 2d, 1888. Dear Sirs:—This institution has passed two winters under cover of Walter’s Metal Shingles. Our winters are very wet, rain falling most of the time, but there has been no leak. The shingles are, therefore, entirely satisfactory. Yours very truly, JOHN W. WAUGHOP, M.D., Sup’t Hospital Insane, W. T. PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. 77 Milford, Del., May 4th, 1888. Dear Sirs:—This is to say that I have used several thousand shingles of Walter’s Patent on our roof at the Phosphate Factory, put on by W. P. Cullen, and up to this time not a single drop of water or a weight of snow has drifted through it, and if kept properly painted, I believe the roof will last as long as any person could wish it to. W. I. SIMPSON. Woodstock College, Howard Co., Md., December 8th, 1886. Gentlemen:—It affords me much pleasure to indorse favorably the Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles. I have used them on our church buildings in Trini¬ dad, Colo., Albuquerque, N. M., and Woodstock, Md. In the first named place they have been in use over two years, and have withstood, without detriment, the very high winds and occasional driving storms of rain and snow for which that State is so remarkable. In the other places they are also giving satisfac¬ tion in every respect. I consider a roof of this material far superior to the ordinary tin or iron, both in beauty of design and solidity of construction, and see no reason why it should not supersede slate, as it is far less costly, requires a lighter frame, is just as much fire or storm-proof, and equally durable if kept painted. Hoping your goods may elicit the patronage they justly deserve, I beg to. remain, gentlemen, Yours very truly, EDWARD BARRY, S. /. Daytona, Fla., February 19th, 1887. Gentlemen:—The Walter’s Patent Shingles have been used on several buildings here, and give complete satisfaction. I consider it one of the best kinds of roofing for this climate, as it is rain, wind and lightning-proof, and in Florida comes as cheap as the pine shingles, as it does not cost much to lay. Those who have used it would not use any other. Respectfully yours, GEO. H. CLARK. 78 PRACTICAL HINTS TO BUILDERS. FR^INK L. SMITH, 22 SCHOOL STREET , io,) - - BOSTON , MASS. Plans and Specifications Prepared for Buildings of every description. Low Cost Suburban Dwellings a Specialty. Distance is no obstacle to my serving parties hi all parts of the country . Correspondence Solicited. PUBLISHER OF A COSY HOME: How It was Built A DISCUSSION OF THE VARIOUS METHODS AND MATERIALS EMPLOYED IN ITS CONSTRUCTION. The book contains ninety-six pages, and is handsomely printed, on heavy, tinted paper. Is illustrated by designs of ten low-cost houses; first and second floor plans and front and side elevations of each design are presented. It contains many valuable and practical suggestions for those who would build economically, and who desire to obtain the greatest value for their money. Most of the houses represented have been recently built in the vicinity of Boston, and the estimated cost of executing each design is based upon actual figures. If you are interested in house planning and building, it will pay you to send for this book. Sent post-paid, on receipt of price, 25c. HOMES OF TO-DAY, OR, Modern Examples of Moderate Cost Houses. Published in four parts, quarterly. First and second parts now ready. Vol¬ ume will contain 240 pages, quarto size, showing designs of buildings to cost from $250 upwards. Over 200 illustrations, full set of framing plans, model specification, colored frontispiece, and valuable information for those about to build. Four parts, post-paid, as issued, $1.00. Address, F. L. SMITH, Architect, 22 School St., Boston, Mass. 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