&££&>. I T520 ±7$ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 013 973 077 A Hollinger Corp. pH8.5 ^ _w>^^ ^w ~ ^ 4 ,r / / / v - o # COMfi, A INSTRUCTION BOOK. * filter fcX > - National Printing Co., 16, 18, -jo & 22 < hambera St., New York. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS $500 REWARD! I, Prof. J. W. Livingston, of the City and State of New York, do hereby notify all persons that I will prosecute to the full extent of the law all persons who will engrave, or print, or sell, or cause to be sold, any infringment on my system of dress-cutting; and I will give five hundred dollars for the arrest and conviction of any one infringing; and I will give one hundred dollars to any one informing on such parties ; and no system is genuine without my por- trait and signature below eacli piece patented separate. Prof. J. W. Livingston informs the public that he makes a specialty of furnishing situations to his pupils. All persons learning and desiring the posi- tion as cutter, leaving their address and the first opportunity offering, are given good situations. Merchants and dress-making establishments furnished with first-class cutters on short notice. No one sent to an establishment without fully under- standing his business. I will be personally responsible for all goods spoiled by any cutter I send to an establishment. Address Prof. J. W. LIVINGSTON, P. O. BOX 1871, New York, N. Y- Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880, by Prof. J. W. LIVINGSTON, in tin- Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. Invention of French Combination. DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES, Ami Form of Writing Them Down. Around chest. Waist. Under arm. Front. Back. Hip 32 24 8 14 16 45 No. 1 is Measuring around the Chest. — See Cut, First. Take the tape measure in your right hand, and stand behind the person you are measuring, and place the tape measure high up across the chest (see cut), and close up under the arms and straight across the back, and draw the measure tight, Suppose that measure to be 32. No. 2 is Measuring around the Waist. — See Cut, Second. Measure around waist, Stand in front of the person, and pass the measure around the waist, and draw up just as tight as the lady wishes her dress to be. Suppose that to be 24. No. 3 is Measuring Length under Arm. — See Cut. Third. Measure under arm. Place the tape close up under the arm, and straight down to the hip. Suppose that to be 8. No. 4 and 2 is Measuring the Length of Front. — See Cut. Fourth. Measure down front, Place the end of the tape line as high up on the neck in front as the dress can be worn, and measure down straight to waist. Suppose that to be 14. No. 5 and 6 is Measuring Length of Back.— See Cut. Fifth. Measure down back. Place the end of tape line as high up on the back of the neck as the dress can be worn, and measure down the" full length to waist. Suppose that is 1(>. No. 7 is Measuring around the Eip. — See Cut. Seventh. Take the hip measure. Place the tape measure around the hip, Sis inches below the waist, and draw the measure as tight as you want the dress to be when completed. Suppose that to be 4."> inches. 3 THE GOVERNING MEASURES. The chest measure governs the size of neck, height of shoulder, width of chest, length of back shoulder, back araisize, and width of back. The waist measure governs the size of waist. The length under arm governs the length of waist and shape of darts. The front and back measure governs the shape of shoulder as the difference between the front and back gives the shape. -o- DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING FRENCH FRONT. You ivillfincl corresponding numbers on Cut No. 1. First. Draw a line the width of bias rule for the hem. Second. Take the system, and place the front part straight with the hem line, and dot at 32 on neck scale for size of neck, and 32 on shoulder scale for height of shoulder, and 32 on chest scale for width of chest. Third. Move the system down to the dots of neck and shoulder scale, and draw a line from the one to the other for shoulder. Fourth. Move the system in half an inch, and draw another line for seam, always placing whatever point of shoulder the measure may call for at the dot at neck. Fifth. Place the neck of the system to the end of inside line of shoulder and to the hem line in front, and draw around for size of neck. Sixth. Take the arm-piece, and place the dot that was made for width of chest close in the corner, and the armsize to touch at the dot at shoulder line, and draw around the curved edge of the armsize for the shape of the arm-hole. Seventh. Take the bias rule and lay straight across from the hem line to the lower side of the armsize, and draw a line on the upper side of the rule from the hem line to the armsize. Eighth. Measure down from that line on the hem line, and dot five inches down. Ninth. Place the bias rule from above that dot across to lower side of armsize (let the rule just touch at armsize), and dot at the arrows on rule for the top of the darts. Tenth. Get the length under arm at the right side. Place the straight end of the bias rule up to arm line, and measure down the length of waist, and make a dot. Eleventh. Take the bias rule and place it straight across to hem, and below the dot that was marked for length of waist, and draw a line at Lower side of the rule for waist line, from whatever number on waist scale the measure may eall for. Suppose the size of waist was 24, then you would draw the line from 24 at the waist scale, on bias rule. Twelfth. Dot out on bias rule on upper side of rule, at the under arm scale, at whatever the siz<- of waist may call for, say 24 : but whatever the number is on waist scale, you dot at the same number at the under arm scale, and dot one inch more for a seam. Now, be sure whatever the number is on waist scale at lower side of rule, it must be the same at the under arm scale on the upper side of bias rule. Thirteenth. Measure one and one-half inches in on waist line from the hem line, for the front of the first dart. Fourteenth. Draw the dart with bias rule; turn the rule wrong side out, and place the rule to dot that was made first for top of dart (see ninth move), and to the dot that was made at waist line (one and one-half inches in from hem), and place the point at top of dart for fleshy forms, and at the notch for ordinary sized forms, and one inch below the No. 1, is tlie French Front. notch for straight or thin forms, and draw a line by the curved side to waist line ; then move the upper end over to the other side of dot, so that the straight side of the rule will be even with the dot, and draw a line down by the straight side of the bias rule to the waist line, and down-straight to eight inches below the waist line. Then turn the rule over, right side up, and draw a line down by curved side of rule, from whatever part of the rule the measure may call for, to the waist line. Draw the second dart the same as the first one, and draw it half an inch in from the first dart. For any kind of basque, Polonaise, or Princess, let the darts extend down eight inches below the waist line, and allow half an inch to be taken out on each side of the straight line at bottom of darts to finish them off; draw the lines down from the waist by the straight side of the bias rule. Fifteenth. Place the little arrow (near the point of rule), right side up, to the end of the armsize line and to the dot below, marked for under arm seam at waist, and draw a line from arm-hole to waist 5 then move the rule in, and draw a line one inch in for seam. Sixteenth. For drawing under arm French side body, measure in from seam at armsize for all chest measures less than 31, dot one and a half inches in ; for 31, 32, 33, dot two inches in ; for 34, 35, 36, dot two and a half inches in ; and for all over 36 chest measure, dot three inches in from seam. Seventeenth. At the waist, get half the distance from the back dart to the under arm seam, and make a dot ; be sure and place the bias rule slanting from the dot at under arm seam to the dart at the waist line. Eighteenth. Take the system, right side up, and place the arrow (that is near the notch at back form) to the dot that was made half way at the waist for all chest measures over 31 inches, and draw a line by the curved side of the system to the dot at armsize. For all chest measures less than 31 inches, draw from one inch above the arrow ; I mean, place the system so that one inch above the arrow will be at the dot at waist. Nineteenth. Place the little arrow on the bias rule to the dot at waist and the point on line above, and draw down by the curved side of rule as long as you want the garment to be made ; draw from the arrow for all chest measures over 31 inches (or, as you make the size for curve above waist), all chest measures less than 31 inches. Place the 16-inches line on rule to dot, and arrow on line above, for the shape below the waist. Twentieth. Place the notch on bias rule to dot at waist, and to the dot at arm line, and draw a line down by curved side of rule to waist. Twenty-first Turn the rule end to end, the square end of rule down ; place the notch to dot at waist, and draw down by the curved side of rule as long as you want the garment to be. After you draw down over the hip curve the seam will be straight down to bottom of skirt, or whatever garment you are making. Twenty-second. Place the square end of the rule to the dot that was made for lenth of waist, arid measure down six inches, and make a dot. Twenty-third. Take the bias rule, and place the square end to the hem line, and above the dot that was just made six inches below waist, and whatever the size of waist may be, dot at that number on the waist scale ; then move the square end of rule into that dot, and dot out again at size of waist on waist scale ; that will make the skirt twice the width of the waist. This rule will be right in all sizes of waist less than 24 inches. All over 24 inches use the hip measure, which will be explained on page 24. Twenty-fourth. Place arrow on rule to dot number 12, and draw a line to dot at number 23, and then draw down from that straight with the grain of goods as long as you want the garment to be. Then draw half an inch out for seam. 6 DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING THE CENTER OF ENGLISH BACK. You will find corresponding number on Cut No. 2. First. Take the system and place the front straight with the edge of the cloth, the same as in the front, and dot at arrow for width of back of neck ; then dot at 32 on back shoulder scale, and 32 on the back arm scale. Second. Take the bias rule, turn it wrong side up, and place the notch to the dot at back shoulder scale, and to the dot at neck, and draw a line by the curved side of rule. Third. Draw another line outside half an inch for seam. Fourth. Take two inches off the length of shoulder (for the present style of wearing the shoulder) and make a dot. Fifth. Place the notch on rule to this dot on shoulder at two inches in, and with the curved side of the rule toward the center of back, and draw a line by the curved side, from the two-inch dot to the dot below at back arm scale. This gives the size and shape of the arm hole in the back. Sixth. Dot up on armline 1 J inches, for the width of top of side body. Seventh. Place the square end of the bias rule to the dot at arrow first made, and draw a line the width of bias rule across for size of neck. (See Cut No. 2.) Eighth. Measure down the length of back at whatever number of inches the back may be, and make a dot. Ninth. Place the square end of the bias rule to the edge of the goods, at the dot at length of waist and dot one inch in from edge, for the spring in the center of back, and one inch more for width of back and half an inch for seam. Tenth. Take the bias rule and place it to the dot made at waist for spring in back, and to the end of line at neck, and draw aline down by the straight side of rule. Eleventh. Draw a line from the dot at waist, and slope out to edge of goods at six inches down. Twelfth. Take the system, take the front shoulder form, turn it wrong side up, and place the notch to the in- side dot at waist, made for width of back, and draw a line by that curve of system up to the 1£ inch dot, that was made on arm line, for the top of side form, then draw another line half an inch out for seam. Thirteenth. Place the square end of the bias rule to the dot at waist, and measure down six inches and make a dot. Four- teenth. Place the rule across from edge of goods below the six-inch dot and make a dot at three No. 2, is the English inches across, and half an inch more for seam. Back. Fifteenth. Draw a line down straight from waist to three-inch dot, and draw another line half an inch oul for seam. Continue these lines down by the slanting of the rule as long as you wont the garment to be. -o- DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE ENGLISH SIDE BODY. You will find corresponding numbers on Cat No. 3. First. Take the front shoulder form of the system, turn it wrong side up, with the notch downward, and have two inches above the notch straight with the edge of the goods, and draw a line from the notch near the neck of system down to the lower notch on system. Second. Move the system in half an inch for seam and draw another line down to waist, and extend down straight as long as you want the garment to be. Third. Take the bias rule and place the square end of rule to the inside line at top, and draw a line 1J inches in for the width of the side body at top. Fourth. Place the square end of the bias rule to the end of that line and with the point downward, and draw a line one inch across for seam ; while the rule is in that position get the length down under arm for waist. To make the seam come even with front seam under arm, you must measure the front seam, and what- ever it measures, take the length down under arm (straight down from top) half an inch shorter, as the curve in the lines al- ways adds half an inch to the length. Fifth. Take the bias rule and place the straight end toward the center of the back and to the dot for length of waist, and take off 1£ inches from the end of rule, (that is, the width of center of back and slope,) or to be plainer, place the 1J inch line on rule even with line that was made second, and dot on the back scale at whatever the size of waist may be. and one inch more for seam. Sixth. Take the bias rule, turn it wrong side up, and place the point to the end of the 1J inch line made at top, and to the inside dot at waist, and draw a line by curved side of rule to waist, then draw another line one inch out for seam. Seventh. Measure down from waist six inches and dot. Eighth. Place rule across at the six inches, and measure across twice the width of waist, and half an inch for seam. Ninth. Place the arrow on rule to dot at waist and to the dot below, and draw a line by curved side of rule; draw another line half an inch for No. 3, is the English *eam. Tight Fitting Side Body. 8 No. 4, is the English Front. DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING AN ENGLISH FRONT (Sec Cut No. 4.) To make the English front, which has two full darts in the front, and one under the arm : Make the hem, the shoulder, size of neck, and armsize, and darts the same as in the French front ; when you make the arm size, add one inch out for a seam. The front is all in one piece, and the seam in dart taken out at armsize, so you must add one inch to allow for that. Then at the waist size, draw the waist line, and dot at size of waist on the under arm scale, and allow two inches more for dart to be taken out, and one inch for seam. Then measure in (after drawing the under arm seams) from the inside line at armsize, at from l| to 3 inches, as directed in French front, and make a dot ; then make another dot one inch in from that dot for seam in dart at armsize. Then place the bias rule across from inside line of under arm seam at waist, and to the back of the dart, and take the two inches allowed for dart out of the center, between dart and seam dot on each side of the two inches. Then take the straight side of the rule, and place to inside dot at armsize, and to inside dot at waist and draw a line ; then draw a line from outside dot at armsize to outside dot for dart at waist. Then get the center of dart and make a dot below the waist at eight inches down, and draw a line down from both sides of the dart to a point. Then at six inches down from length of waist, where yon make twice the width of waist as in French front ; yon add two inches more in the English front, and draw the hip lines the same as in the French front ; when you get over the curve at hip, make straight down as long as you want the garment to be. ■<> DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING EMPRESS FRONTS. (See Cut No. 5.) The Empress front has only one dart in front and one under the arm. Make the outlines of the front the same as the French front, until you come to the top of the dart ; instead of dotting at the arrow, make a dot at 4 inches in on rule for top of dart. Then at the waist line, dot in two inches from the hem line, for the front of the dart. Put three inches in the dart at waist. Make the dart the same as directed in the French front. Then for the dart under arm, you add one inch at the armsize, the same as in the English front, but you add nothing at the waist or below the waist. Then place the rule across from under arm seam to dart, at the waist, and take 2J inches out of the center between dart and seam. (The bias rule is 1} inches wide, and the dart under arm is 2J inches, or twice the width of the rule, and is just the width that would have been taken up had there been two darts in front.) Then dot on each side of the 2J inches at waist, and take the bias rule and draw a line by the straight side of rule, from the inside dot at armsize to the inside dot at waist ; then draw another line from the outside dot at armsize to the outside dot at waist ; then draw this dart to a point at eight inches below the waist, the same as directed in the English waist. Make this front straight down to the bottom of the garment, after you draw over the curve of the hip, the same as directed in the other fronts. 10 No. 5, is the Empress Front. 11 DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING FRENCH BACK. (See Cut No. 7.) Place the system straight with goods armsize the same as in the English back ; the straight end of bias rule at the dot at back arm scale, and draw a line one inch out for seam, then without moving the rule, get thel ength of waist down under arm, and place the bias rule across below that dot. and the straight end of rule to the center of the back. Then dot one inch from edge of goods. for the slope in the center of back, and then dot in on the back scale on rule, at whatever the waist measure may be, and allow one inch more for seam. Then place the point of rule to inside dot at arm line, wrong side up, and to the inside dot at waist, and draw a line down by the curved side ot the rule, and draw another line one inch out for seam. Then take the slope out of the center of the back by drawing a line from the neck to waist dot, one inch in from edge. Measure down from waist six inches, and slope out from dot at waist to edge of goods : then measure across from edge at 6 inches down, and make twice the width of waist across and add half inch more for seam ; place the arrow on bias rule to dot at waist, and at the inside dot at six inches below the waist, and draw a line by the curved side of the rule, then move the rule out and draw another line half an inch out for seam, then slant down by rule as long as you want the garment to be. , and draw the neck, shoulder, and when you draw the armsize, place DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING THE EMPRESS BACK. (See Cut No. 7.) Make the French back complete ; then measure the length of the shoul- der, and make a dot at half the length ; suppose the length of shoulder to be eight inches, make a dot at four inches. Then dot half wav across at the waist No. 7, is tlic French or £ni press Back. 12 No* 9, is the French Combination Front. 13 line, and dot half way across at six inches below the waist. Place the bias rule wrong side up, with the notch to the half-way dot on the shoulder, and to the half-way dot at the waist, and draw a line by the curved side of the rule from shoulder to waist, and continue the line down straight as long as you want the garment to be ; then place the rule again to the half-way dot at waist, and to the half-way dot at six inches below the waist, and draw a line down straight, and continue the line down as long as you want the gar- ment to be ; cut the center of the back out first by the line that runs from all the half-way dots, you will find in cutting it will take a piece off the side- piece below the waist. Always draft a pattern for this back, and when you come to cut the side-piece, let the cloth run down straight, and you will thus add the piece you have cut off in the back, without piecing your pattern, and it will give the required fullness in the back ; allow seams on every part, where they are not marked in the patterns, both on the fronts and backs. -o- DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING FRENCH COMBINATION FRONT. (See Cut No. 9.) For double breast, French combination front, draw a line down same as hem, as many inches in from front as you want the front to lap over. Then place the system to that line, and dot the same, and draw just the same as the French front, except at the darts below the waist line ; when you draw the straight line in middle of front dart, do not let it extend below the waist line, but the back line of the first dart must be drawn down below the waist line two inches, and the first line of the back dart is drawn down two inches, and to a point connecting with line of first dart. The center line of back dart stops at waist line, then measure down from waist line through the point be- tween the darts, and dot at eight inches down, then measure one and a half inches each way from that dot, or say take three inches out and dot. (See Cut No. 9.) Then draw a line from outside of dart lines, front and back darts, to these lj-inch dots. For Princess or Polonaise always cut your lining first, cut out the darts, place the lining on the outside goods, then bring the darts together at the eight inches down, and baste firmly on the outside, be- fore cutting outside goods, bringing the edges together before cutting outside material does away with all extra fullness in the front. For basques or coats let the seam of the dart run down to bottom of garment. Allow seams in all places where seams are not marked on the pattern. -<)- DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING A HALF-FITTING FRONT. (See Cut No. 6.) To draw a half-fitting front, place the system the same as for tight-fitting, and dot at 32 on neck scale, 32 on height of shoulder scale, and 33 on width 14 No. « is the Half Fitting Front. 15 of chest scale, always allow one number more on chest scale to give a little fullness over the bust; then draw the neck and the shoulder the same as in the tight-fitting, and the armsize the same except that you stop at the arrow as marked on armsize; get top of dart the same, except instead of dotting at arrows, you dot at 5 inches in on bias rule for top of dart. Then get length under arm, and whatever the actual measure down under arm may be, dot half an inch shorter, in half-fitting, or loose-fitting garments. Then place the rule across from hem line, and below the length of waist dot, and draw a line from the size of waist number found on waist scale on lower side of rule to the hem line in front, then dot in on that line at three inches for the front of the dart, then dot at three inches more for size of dart, and make dart the same as in the tight-fitting, dot out on under arm scale at whatever the size of waist may be, and dot half an inch more for seam ; then place arrow on rule to end of arm line, and to dot last made, and draw a line for under the arm seam ; move rule in half inch and draw another line for curve below the waist. Place the notch on the rule to waist dot (at under arm seams) and the point on the line above, and draw by curved side of rule six inches below waist, then turn rule over right side up, and put the arrow on rule to end of that line and the point on the line above and draw down straight as long as you want the gar- ment to be, then draw another line J inch out for seam. ■(>• DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING A SACQUE BACK. (See Cut No. 8. Place the system and dot the same as in the tight-fitting backs, only add one number more at back arm scale ; draw the neck and shoulder, and take two inches off the length of shoulder, the same as the tight-bitting backs ; get the arm-hole shape with the arm size. Place the upper arrow on arm size to the back arm scale dot, and to the two inch dot on shoulder, and get curve of arm-hole with that ; then take the length down under arm the same as the sacque front, and dot. Place the rule across below that dot, and with the .straight end of rule to the center of the back, and dot one and a half inches in for slope in the center of back ; get the size of the waist, and add as many inches more as you want fullness, and dot, and a half-inch more for seam ; add a half-inch seam at arm size ; then take the system, right srde up, and place the notch on system to the dot at back arm scale, and to the inside dot at waist, and draw down for shape of under arm seam ; then draw another line a half-inch out for seam; then place the rule so that the notch on rule will be on the line one inch above the waist clot, and draw down by curved side of the rule as long as you want the garment to be; draw another line half-inch out for seam. If you want a seam to the shoulder (Empress), then measure half way on shoulder line, and half way across at waist line, and dot ; then place the notch on rule to the dot on shoulder, and to waist dot, and draw a line down as long as you want the garment; then dot halfway across below the waist, and draw down for shape of back. For seam to arm size (English), place notch on system to center dot at waist, and to half way on arm size, and draw a line to waist. 16 No. 8, is the Sacqtie Back. No. 1*2, is Half-Fitting English Back. 17 DIRECTIONS FOE DRAWING HALF-FITTING BACK. (See Cut No. 12.) Draw the half-fitting back the sameas the tight-fitting English hack, only add one number more at the back arm scale togive a little fullness across the shoulder and at the waist line ; make the width of back 1£ inches to give full- ness, then for line below the waist, place the notch on rule to waist dot and point on line above and draw by curved side of rule as long as you want the garment to be. DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING HALF-FITTING SIDE BODY. (See Cut No. 13.) Make the curved lines that sews to back the same as in the tight-fitting ; at the top draw with the armsize from the arrows as marked for side form, take the length down for waist half an incli shorter than the actual measure as in the front. (The reason for taking the half inch off the measure down under arm, in half-fitting, is on account of curving the lines over the hip, adds to the length.) Place The rule across below T the length of wai*t dot, and with the straight end of rule to the center of back, and with the half-inch line even with seam line, and mark on back scale on upper side of rule at whatever number the size of waist may be„ and a half inch more for seam. Then place (wrong side up) the point of rule to outside point at armsize, and to outside dot at waist and draw a line by the curved side, then draw another line, half inch for seam ; at the waist place the notch on rule to waist dot, and point on line above, and drawdown by curved side of rule as long as you want the gar- ment to be, then draw another line half an inch out for seam. No. 13, is the Half-Fitting English Side Body. 18 DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING LOOSE FITTING SACQUE. (See Cut No. 10.) For sacque, cloak, or outside garment, make either single or double breast; if single, mark down for hem in front the width of the bias rule; if for double breast, mark in as many inches from the front as you want the lap, and draw a line. Place the system the same as for half-fitting front, and dot the same, adding one number on width of chest scale; draw full size of arm size the same as in tight fitting ; get the length down under arm half-ineh shorter than actual measure. Place rule across below that dot and to the hem line in front, and dot out on rule at under arm scale at whatever number the size of waist .may be, and a half-inch more for seam ; then take the* rule, turn it wrong side up, place the point of rule to end of arm size line, with the curved side in, and to the outside dot at size of waist, and draw a line (Town by the curved side of rule, as long as you want the garment to be ; then draw a line half an inch in for seam. Measure for a sacque as you do for a dress ; then for suit goods, or any light material, draw one number larger on system ; this will make it large enough to go over dress and fit nicely. For heavier goods, or with heavy lining, cut two numbers larger ; but in extra heavy material cut three numbers larger than the dress measure, on account of the seams taking uy more. o- DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURE OF SLEEYE, And Form of Writing Down the Measure. Around shoulder. Elbow. Hand. Length. 18 14 10 22 First. Place the tape measure around the arm at shoulder, and as high up on the shoulder as you want the sleeve to be, and take the measure close, but not tight, and add 2 inches, Second. Measure around the elbow close, and having the arm bent towards the body, and add 3 inches more. Third. Measure around the largest part of the hand close, then add 2 inches. Fourth. Get the length of the sleeve. Place the tape measure to the point of the shoulder and around the elbow to the wrist ; have the arm bent toward the body. The present style of wearing the sleeve to the point of the shoulder requires the sleeve to be proportioned in length as follows : Allow 2 inches more from shoulder to elbow than from elbow to wrist. As the fashions change to long or shorter shoulder, always remember whatever is taken from the length of shoulder must be added to the length of sleeve, or vice versa. 19 No. lO, is the Front of a Loose Saeqiie. 20 DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING A SLEEVE. (See Cut No. 11.) First take the bias rule, place it straight with the grain of the goods, make a dot at the fifteen ineh line on rule, as marked for elbow of sleeve, then dot at the lower side of the square end of rule. Then place your finger on the rule at the elbow, so it will not move, and move the square end at top of sleeve, down below the dot, but leave the rule at elbow the same as at first, to get the proper curve at elbow. Then draw a line from the square end of rule, around to the point, by the curved side, then turn the rule end to end, wrong side up with the notch to the dot at elbow, and point on the line above, and draw down as long as you want the sleeve to be (allow two inches more in length of sleeve, from shoulder to elbow, then from elbow to hand for the present style of wearing the sleeve, always remember to proportion your sleeve according to the length of shoulder in dress or other garment ; what- ever is taken off the length of shoulder must be added to sleeve or whatever is added to shoulder must be taken off from top of sleeve. Then measure down four inches from top of sleeve and dot. (See cut 4.) Take the bias rule, place the square end to the four inch dot, and straight with the line, and draw a line from that dot down by the straight side of rule, one half of what- ever the measure of sleeve around the shoulder may be. Suppose the meas- ure close around arm at shoulder was 16, you add two inches to the measure, then you would make the line nine inches across, which would be the half of 18. Place the rule at elbow straight with goods, and draw a line straight down one-half of whatever the measure of elbow may be, after adding three inches to the close measure of arm at elbow, measure the same way at hand, draw the line at hand one-half of the measure of hand after adding two inches. Place the rule with the 15-inch line (or curve for elbow) to the end <>f tin- straight line at elbow, and to the end of line at shoulder, and draw a line by the curved side of rule from shoulder to elbow. Then turn the rule end to end and place the notch on rule to elbow dot and draw a line by curved side of rule to end of line at hand. Take the system, turn it wrong side up, place the notch at back form to the end of inside line, and to the end of outside line, and draw around the curved side of the system, about halfway bet ween the lines, then move the svstem around so that the notch is one inch 21 in on line, and draw on around by the same curve to the upper line, this gives the proper curve for top of sleeve. For the under part of sleeve, place the square end of rule to outside line of sleeve, and across slanting to inside line of sleeve, and make a straight line from one to the other, then dot in on that line at 3 inches for top of under part of sleeve, then dot 2 inches in from top at the elbow line and U inches in from top on the line at hand. Then place the 15 inch line or elbow of sleeve to the two inch dot on elbow line and to the three inch dot on upper line, and draw a line by the curved side of the rule, turn the rule over, place the notch to the two inch dot and to the 14-inch dot at hand, and draw a line down. Take the system, right side up, with the arrow at back form to inside line and to the line at the three inch dot, and draw around that curve for top of under part of sleeve. ■o- MEASURE FOR SKIRT. First. Take the measure down the front from waist to floor. Second. Take the measure over hip from waist down to floor. Third. Take the measure from waist at back down to floor. DIRECTIONS FOR SKIRT. (See Cut No 30.) First measure the waist, and to get the proper proportion for a skirt, allow two-thirds of the measure in the front and side piece, and one-third in the back. For example, for a 21-inch waist measure put three inches in each half of front, five inches in each side piece, and four inches in each side of back. For the front of skirt first measure in three inches from folded edge of goods, and dot; second, place point of rule to dot, and along the top of goods, and curve out to folded edge for the shape for top of breadth ; third, measure down from the three inch dot six inches, and dot; fourth, place rule across from the six inch dot, with the straight end of rule to fold of goods, and dot at five inches across from folded edge ; this makes the width at six inches down from top, two inches more than at the top, and gives the proper shape in all sizes ; fifth, place the arrow on rule to the three inch dot at top, and to the five inch dot, and draw a line down by curved side of rule ; then lengthen down as long as you want the skirt to be. TO MAKE THE SIDE BREADTH, First. Place the rule on the edge of the cloth, with the notch to the top of the breadth, and shape the edge by the curve from notch. This will make the breadth fit to the front, without wrinkles over the front or side. Second, Measure across the top five inches, and make a dot. Third* Place the notch on rule to that dot and to the line first made, and draw across to give the 22 shape over the hip. Fourth. Measure down six inches from top, and make a dot. Fifth. Place rule across below the six inch dot, and with the straight end to the edge of cloth, and dot at seven inches across, or two inches more than at the top. Sixth. Place the arrow on rule to the five inch dot at waist, and to the seven inch dot, and draw a line down by the curved side of rule as long as you want the skirt to be. TO DRAFT THE BACK BREADTH OF SKIRT. First. Measure in from fold of goods three inches, and dot ; then measure down on fold of goods ten inches, and draw a line down from the three inch dot to the ten inch dot ; this will take a V, six inches wide at top, out of the middle of the back breadth : then measure across straight from the three inch No. 30. dot. and mark at four inches more, or half the back measure; then measure down straight from the four inch dot six inches, and place the rule across below the six inch dot, and mark two inches out from that dot ; then place the arrow on rule to the dot at waist for the half of back, and to the dot below, and draw a line by the curved side of rule down as long as you want the skirt to be made. TO DRAFT A SKIRT WITH TRAIN. Make the front breadth the same as for walking skirt, and make the side Invadth the same, down as far as the walking length ; then add one-third length of the train to the walking length at the seam that sews to back; make the seam that sews to front the same length as the front, and make two-thirds of the width of the side breadth straight across from front, before commencing the t rain ; then place the point of rule, right side up, to the dot at two-thirds way across, and down to the line of skirt, and draw by the curved side of the rule down to where the train is added to the walking length. A train made 23 this way never turns over, and always gives a graceful appearance. For th« the train in back breadth, add full length of train in the center of back breadth (double of goods), ond add one-third length of train at the part that sews to side breadth; then measure across straight from center of back breadth at the train, and make one-third the length of train straight across ; then take the rule ond place the point of rule to the end of that line, wrong side up, and draw a line by the curved side up to the end of line where the train is added to walking length at side. Never add anything to the width extra, as the slope from the hip down gives width enough for any length of train. If hoops are worn, the hip measure will be larger, and the skirt we widen in proportion to what is added at the hip. ■o- DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING CHILDREN'S FRONTS. Place the system for the front with the childrens's line even with the folded edge of the goods, and dot at whatever the chest measure may be; draw the shoulder from the square shoulder for children, and draw the neck with the children's line even with folded edge of goods ; get the armsize from the children's curve as marked on arm piece ; get length of waist down under arm. and place the rule across below the length of waist dot, and with the square end of the rule even with folded edge of goods and mark at one-third the size at waist measure and half inch more for seam ; if you want to have a dart in front then you must add as much to the size of waist (more than the exact measure) as you want to put in the dart ; then to get under arm seam place the notch on rule to the end. of the line at armsize and to the outside dot at waist and draw a line by the curved side of the rule (wrong side up) down as long as you want the dress to be ; if you want a princess front dot half way on the shoulder and dot it from folded edge (down at waist length) at two inches in and draw a line down by placing the notch on rule to shoulder dot and draw by curved side of rule to waist and straight down to bottom of dress, then put the notch on rule one inch above the dot at waist on the line and draw down for shape of center of the front. For a G-abrielle front dot half way upon armsize and at the waist the same as for a Princess ; then place the dot on system to dot at waist and to the dot at armsize and draw a line by the shoulder form of system ; below the waist make same as Princess. DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING BACK FOR CHILDREN. - Take the width of rule off the edge of goods for a hem, then take half an inch more off for lap, then lay the system with the children's line even with the line made for lap and dot at arrow made for back of neck for children and dot at whatever the chest may be at the back shoulder scale and the back arm scale, then place the 15-inch line to a dot at back shoulder scale and draw a line from there to dot at neck, then draw another line half inch above for seam ; get the armsize the same as for large waist and take the length down under arm and dot ; place the rule across below that dot and even with line for lap and dot at one-half of the measure of back; you put two-thirds of the waist measure in the front for children and one-third in the back ; then take rule, turn it wrong side up and place the notch to armsize and to the dot at 24 « waist and draw a line down as long as yon want the dress to be and draw another line half inch out for seam ; to make seam to shoulder (Princess) dot half way on shoulder, half way at waist and halfway at six inches below waist, then place notch on system to half-way dot at shoulder and draw a line to waist, then place rule to dot below waist and draw a line from waist down as long as the dress ; for a Gabrielle dot half way in armsize and place notch on system to dot at waist and get the curve by the shoulder form of system ; make the same as the Princess below the waist. ■o- GENERAL DIRECTIONS. In all chest measures over 32 inches, you must drop on the neck scale and height of shoulder scale in all kind of waists, either tight or loose fitting. 33, 34 and 35 chest measures drop to 32 36 and 37 " " ?! 33 38 and 39 " " " 34 All above 39 " " " 35 But in all sizes use the the full measure on the width of chest scale. When a lady measures 26 or 27 chest measure, you must add 2 numbers on width of chest scale ; 28 chest measure add one number on width of chest to give fullness over bust. These numbers belong to misses' sizes, ancl no allowance is made for fullness. RULE FOR HIP MEASURE. Measure around the hip at six inches below the waist, and put two-third* of i\ie measure in the front and side piece, and one-third in the back. Measure across the front at six inches below the waist length; take out the size of the darts, and see what is left ; subtract that amount from the one-third of fcbe hip measure, and put the balance in the side piece, use the hip measure in all sizes of waist over 24 inches. RULE FOR VARIATION OF DARTS. To get right shape of darts, all lengths of waist, down under arm of less than seven inches, draw the dart from point of rule, all between seven and nine inches, draw from notch on rule, nine inches and all above nine draw from the fifteen inch line on rule. From the point is a full round dart. From the notch is a half round and from the fifteen inch line is a straight dart. RULE FOR BASTlXti. Successful dress-making, tailoring, and all kinds of plain and fancy sewing, depends largely upon good basting. Whal seamstress but can recall many a sad experience and delay in ripping and altering, all because she had theught to make a little time by not stopping to baste before sewing, or because she had so carelessly basted. Poor basting is api to prove w than no basting at all. Another mistake is to consider that pinning will do just as well as basting. It is true that a straight seam of a skirt or trim- ming may be pinned evenly every three or four inches, so as to make it quite sate tor stitching. But it is quite impossible to pin waist seams so as to in- sure an artistic effect, even when executed by an accustomed hand. A garmeut well basted is half finished. Accurately cut, artistically basted, neatly finished, or the costume of the most costly material will look unfin- ished and of mean effect. Before basting a lining and outside together,, stitch the scam of any piecing of either or both, and lap it open. Lay the outside on a perfectly smooth surface, table or lap board with the facedown. Make smooth any wrinkles and straighten any bias or stretched appearance. Lay the lining on with the right side up, taking care that the edges of the upper and under are even. Pin so closely that neither can slip when bast- ing or handling them. Next baste them together with a lining stich, taking a short cross stitch and then a long stitch — the short one from one-fourth to one-half inch ; the long one from two to three inches. Take each stitch the same length, pulling the thread each time so that any stitch shall hold t he material with an ecptal firmness, and avoid the danger of drawing the long stitch so tight as to slacken the goods beneath it. Take a needlefull of thread of about one yard long, make knot to commence with, and always take a back stitch at the last of each needlefull. Baste just on the tracing or line marked for seam. For basting on wadding or interlining, observe all the nbove directions, and for basting the facing on a skirt, cut the wiggan about twelve inches wide, and sew the widths in one long strip : bind the upper side with muslin, make the lower edge perfectly straight, and baste the bottom of the skirt and the lower edge of the wiggan together. Leave the skirt right side out and lay it on the lap board, which should be held upon the lap. Now make the outside and facing smooth, regardless of where the plaits in the wiggan will come, taking care that the upper side does not draw or stretch. Pin it firmly the length of the board, then move the skin around and pin again, until all the facing is pinned in its place. Now take it ofif r turn it wrong side out, and place it back on the board, same as above, and baste across the top of the facing with a short stitch. Turn the bottom of the skirt in and baste it on the facing. Then trim off the projecting wjggai before basting on the braid. How to baist a waist is the first thing under consideration. We now proceed to the fronts, which should first be basted smoothly on the lining, commencing at the neck, and following down the line traced for the hem, then up and down both sides the darts. Great care should be taken not to get the outside the least bit tighter than the lining, especially in the snugly-fitting portions of the waist, or the strain of wearing will come upon the material, and ruin the beauty, if not the service, of a cos- tume perhaps the first time it is worn. Always let the work lay smooth and flat upon the table or lap board. Do not put one hand on the under side oF the work, as is so natural to do when basting a lining and outside together. Set the needle in cross-wise when taking up the short stitch. Do not (Ira w the thread tight, or crowd the materia] beneath the long stitch. The stitch taken upon the needle, or short stitch, should be from one-quarter to one-half inch in length, and the basting or long stitch about two or three inches long. Always cut eaeh long basting before removing it from fine materiala. Do not pin the work down or hold it over one finger, but let it lay easy on the lap- board or table. Always fasten the last stitch firmly. Commence to baste a dart, as well as all waist seams, from the top down, take two stitches straight at top above dart, then follow the line of the tracing to the bottom of the dart. Pay no attention to the outside edges of seams, but be very careful to always have the lines of tracing come exactly together after basting the darts ; then take up dart under arm, if in an English or Empress waist, or a French side form, you must sew side piece to front, commencing at the top and sewing down ; then sew the seams in back, and then join the back and front together from armhole down. The side body and under arm seam should commence evenly at the armhole. Before hasting the shoulder, lay. the two front shoul - ders. together and stretch very tight before sewing to back. The above rule !ls inevitable for a good fitting shoulder ; by stretching. the front very tight it avoids the serious and very frequent fault of a wrinkled, ill-fitting front about the neck. In finishing the neck, hold the band, piping, or collar a little fuller than the neck. , Always have the lining, cut on the same grain of material as the. outside, baste the collar on commencing in the center of the back, and baste the right side on rjrst. The buttons aud button-holes should always be complete before putting on the collar, in order to finish it neatly in the front. The seam of the collar should be concealed by running pn. one side, : and felling down on the other. ; . Unless the lining of a basque is of silk, it should always have a facing of the same or some desirable material on the bottom. After the seams have been stitch dd up and laid open, it is then r^ady for the facing, which may be either bias or straight, but is usually better on the straight. Commencing at the back, fit a piece on just the shape of the basque. If the seams in the facing are quite frequent, it will only help to make it set better. Fit the facing only on one side, and then cut duplicate pieces for the other side. Do not join the seams of the facing, except as each pieee is laid on let it lap over the other far enough to fell down. After basting, each piece on firmly, fell the; seams of the facing on the edge of the basque, and fell the facing upon it .with a short neat stitch, or if a cording is used, baste on the cording, then fit the, facing, and fell it on, same. as. above. If the waist has long tabs and open seams, the entire tab should be faced. Always let the lining of the basque continue beneath the facing. A belt waist should finish at the proper waist line, having the belt set up on the waist and not below the bottom of the waist. The belt must always be made of a lengthwise strip, and, if pos- sible, without piecing. Cut the belt two and one-half inches wide, turn in one halfjnch on each side, and baste it in with a short stitch. Now baste it on tin 4 waist, leaving the lower edge to come a trifle below the waist in order that when it is basted against the lining it will just cover the bottom of the waist, and make a neat edge to sew the skirt on. Always put the outside belt on first, then lay the lining on the under side, and after stitching through, turn the lining down, and turn it up on the lower edge against the outside belt ; now baste them together with a fine thread that need not be removed after the skirt is sewed on. Always put the belt on a little tight, always finish the seams of a belt waist the same as the seams of a basque. If the waist opens in the back, the belt will finish even with the backs of the waist, but if in the front, let the right side project far enough to reach the opening in the side of the skirt. When a lady has become able to make and set in a, 1 1 sleeve properly, she has mastered one of the important- details of dress-mak- ing. Ii is of little consequence that a dress has been properly ou1 and artisti- cally fitted, unless it have a smooth, neat finish, and perhaps there is no one thing about a dress finishing that so often destroys the beauty of material and graceful effect as that of sewing in a sleeve. It is not uncommon f'<»r us to see a grey-blue, or green dress, having the sleeves sewed in with white or black thread, without any stay or support about the arm size, and the stitches so long as to give plenty of space between each one, and of making scry prominent the objectionable thread ; or another common fault is, the outside or elbow seam located on top of the arm, and twisting around at the wrist, straining at the elbow and arm size in another place, and puffing out in another, when the elbow seam should have been in its right place, which is just so far around in the back of the arm size as will make it come exactly underside of the tip of the elbow. The fashion and size of an arm size and sleeve are subject to such variations as to make it quite impossible to give a rule for placing this important seam at any certain distance from either the shoulder or side body seam. Thn best possible way to get the sleeve in the arm. size perfect is, after it is finished, and the arm size has been made firm by either a bias of the lining or a cording around it, is to put the waist, or garment upon a figure near her size, and then pin the sleeve in the arm size, moving and changing it until it sets smooth over the top of the arm and around the arm size ; also easy and comfortable over the elbow. One of the first rules in getting an artistic and workmanlike sleeve is to cut it on the proper grain of the goods. It is a very common occurrence, where there is a jnap or figure in goods, to get one part wrong. In laying down a sleeve pat- tern, it is so natural to turn the small part around because it will slip down farther into the narrow width, and save on the entire width at the other end. If material has a nap or figure with an up and down to it, and the pattern to be cut is a coat sleeve, lay the upper side down on the goods with the top part, towards the top of the figure or nap. Then lay the underside on with the top the same way. The lining of waist and sleeves should always be of the same material. Always cut the lining on the same grain of the material as the outside. Baste the outside on the lining, then cut facing for the bot- tom of the sleeve by laying a bias strip two and one-half inches wide on the right side of each piece of the sleeve at the hand, and cut it tho same shape. If the facing is laid on wrong side up, it will be ready to stitch. The facing of a sleeve should always be of a soft material, and generally it will reward one for the trouble of looking up or even purchasing a bit of silk to make a neat finish just at this important part of the costume. The lining should always reach to the bottom of the sleeve, and the facing cover it. After shaping the facing as above, stitch across the bottom of each part of the sleeve through the facing. Then turn it down and baste the outside seam up first, then be careful that the seams of the facing meet. Never pin down the work when basting or stitching up the seam of a sleeve after basting up the outside seam of the sleeve, which extends through the facing, baste the inside seam in the same manner, and then stitch with a loose tension. Then turn up the facing, and baste it ciose on the lower edge before felling it at the top of the facing, or it will be apt to sag down and show below the sleeve. If a cuff is to be put on, it must be finished and trimmed before it is sewed on the sleeve. When a cuff is to be used, the facing should be laid on and felled to tin 1 , lining side, leaving the bottom edge unfinished. Turn the cuff wrong side out, and the sleeve right side, and join them at the bottom with seam on the the right side, thus : wdien the cuff is turned back the seam will be con- cealed. Fasten it up on the sleeve by either sewing a button or bow through 28 both, or slip stitch it a little below the top on the underside of the sleeve. The sleeve should always be basted before sewing in the armhole, and should always fit smoothly in the arm size. Always sew a sleeve in with strong silk, twist, or thread the same color as the material. Always use single thread, and take a short back stitch. If double thread is used, there is a possibility of one being drawn tighter than the other, thus leaving a loose stitch to gap, and a tight one to break. Sew the sleeve in from the sleeve side. If a visible cording be used, it must invariably be made of a perfect bias, and sewed in closely, or it will be impossible to get an artistic appear- ance, for better never have a cording around the arm size than to have the sleeve sewed in so far from the cord in one place as to show the stitches which basted it in, and in another place half, if not all the cord covered up by taking too deep a seam. If difficulty is found in sewing in a cording, our suggestion to such is, always see that a perfect bias is used for a covering, and after basting the cord in with a fine stitch, trim off the edges evenly, so that any part of the cording shall be just the width of the seam where it is to be used. For thin arms the present style of sleeve (close-fitting) is improved by basting a thin sheet of wadding between the outside and the lining on the upper side of the sleeve, sewing it in with the sleeve, and letting it finish above the elbow. -0- No. 23, is a coat collar, drawn with the straight side of rule, and front shoulder. See Cut. No. 24, is a pointed collar, drawn with the straight side of rule and front shoulder. See Cut. No 25, is a standing collar, drawn with front shoulder of system. See Cut. 29 TIME IS MONEY. 1 think you will agree with me that time saved in fitting garments is very great. While you wait on a customer getting ready to come to your place of business to be fitted, you could oftentimes have the garment finished. Then, when she does come, every one is hurry and bustle to get it finished, as the one that delays her coming to the last moment is the one that is deter- mined to have her dress at the moment promised, when she is the one to blame for all the trouble. How often the seamstress works far in the " wee, sma! hours " to oblige a lady, or through fear of losing her work, when all might have been saved by having a perfect system of cutting, requiring no refitting. No coming back to try on with my system. Any lady can, bj properly observing my instructions, taking her measures correctly, and using oare in her drafting, cut a garment for any figure, and of any style, and feel sure of having a perfect fit, and time and trouble both saved. It is a self-evident fact that if you can do a certain amount of work in so much less time than you have been in the habit of doing it, and yet obtain the same amount for doing it, you will find yourself better remunerated ; and if, at the same time, you are enabled to give better satisfaction to your customers, by your means of insuring a better fit, it is evident you will increase your patrons, and also save the trouble and time you have spent in making alterations, and in having misfits thrown upon your hands. The first great point to insure success in any profession is excellence, and yet, while every other art lias progressed to a great extent, the art of dress-cutting (and it is an art) Iims been at a standstill. This fact has been so frequently brought to my obser- vation, while traveling through the different States, and calling to my mind the different ideas that are almost daily presented, I do not wish to intimate that there is a want of talent, or that dressmakers are imperfect in themselves, "hut quite the contrary, I have found ladies of high culture and refinement in every place in the Union ; and how often I have found them working on the principle of " I guess it will fit," and " 1 always cut by my eye," or, even worse, depending on a worthless chart, with which the country is rilled, strewn broadcast over the land, and are not worth the paper they are prim til on. No form, I care not how well proportioned it may be, can be fitted per- fectly by guesswork. Every dressmaker must have a perfect system to cut by, or she will fail to give satisfaction either to herself or her customer. A dressmaker with nothing but a chart or guesswork to depend on, rarely ever gives satisfaction, and her system of operating leads to results not only annoy- ing and ruinous to herself, but exceedingly disagreeable to her customer : and it often happens a lady knows (or thinks she knows) more about your business than you do yourself, and when you commence your dreaded task of fitting her dress, she takes her position before the glass, instructs you in all tin- points you may think and do know all about. She will tell you, you must take it up here, let it out there, and do many things you have never heard of before, that you finally begin to doubt whether you are fitting her dress or taking a course of instructions from her, or listening to a free lecture gotten np for your exclusive benefit, and although she may be entirely ignorant of dressmaking, she is very willing to teach you a better way ;. and although it would be very impolite in you not to answer her, you must allow yourself to become nervous and irritated, without being able to defend yourself: and as i r you work without rule, you feel you have no advantage over her, and must bear with insults and impertinent remarks you are not able to refute. The fact is, all garment cutting without a perfect system amounts to mere specu- lation. They may fit, or they may not. You have no more certainty of a dress fitting than a blind man would have of hitting a mark with a gun placed in his hands, and you owe it to yourself, as well as to your customers, to discard at once and forever the old, tedious, and uncertain way for fitting, which the present age of improvement renders ridiculous, and adopt a new and easy and perfect principle, having something certain to depend on, and" something which lifts you above the petty insults of patronizing customers. This uncertain mode of cutting garments and trouble of refitting have long kept the dressmaker a subject of incessant toil and the recipient of scanty remuneration, whilst you are always working at a disadvantage, and are always hunted out by those that intend to turn your disadvantages to their own profit. How often, when you are in the greatest hurry to finish some long-delayed garment, kept back day after day, waiting on a careless cus- tomer to come to be fitted, and every moment's time needed to finish it, some one enters. You must leave all, and see to her orders. She will look at your books, talk about the styles, examine your work, and talk and talk, and never go ; ask your prices, criticize your style of sewing, trimming and prices, and then, probably, after keeping you an hour or more, go out without giving you an order, or, perhaps, tell you she is sorry you have nothing to please her. All this is very annoying, but none the less true. But without a per- fect system you must remain as you are. With a practical knowledge of my system, you can take the measure of a customer in one minute. That accom- plished, and the style of suit decided on, you can return to the duties of your workroom without any farther loss of time, feeling confident your customer will be accurately fitted ; that she will not be subjected to the old system of trying on, and after her measure is taken properly she can depart. You need not see her again. You know you can cut out your work whenever it suits you best, feeling confident that when you do So, it will be without trouble and without guesswork in any way. Every line will be in its place, and working n this perfect way makes your business a pleasure instead of a worry. It iwill not take you long to discover that after acquiring a perfect knowledge of my system, you can cut and prepare for the workroom more than ten times the amount of work in the same space of time you required in the old way r and you can more than double your profits, and save material, in cutting in a systematic way. You will do away with the rule of leaving an inch or two here or there to take up or let out, as in the old way of having to be tried on ; besides, it will save much time and temper. I feel I could not say enough on this subject, were I to write a lifetime. Having been in business for twenty-two years, traveling in eight different countries, and inventing a per- fect system of dress-cutting, making it a study — the study of my life — I think I ought to know what I write when I say a lady's dress requires as much sys- tem, experience, and accuracy to make it fit properly as the cutting of a gen- tleman's coat 5 and how can we expect it to fit properly if it is cut by guess, or chart, or patterns ? Where could we find a merchant tailor who would allow a piece of goods to be taken to his work-room to be cut by any such way ? AH charts are worthless. No form can be fitted by a bust measure. It is unreasonable to believe such a thing. Take any chart, I care not whose it may be, can one shape of shoulder fit every form, or one dart ? Can a round shoulder fit a square shoulder? Can a sloping shoulder fit a stoop? I wonder dressmakers can be so blind as to spend their money for such worth- less things. All she gains is merely the satisfaction of knowing she has been 31 humbugged, cheated out of her money. I say here, with all due respect to every one, and knowing full well what I am saying, that there arc but two perfect systems of cutting in the known world for ladies' dresses: One is that old reliable system, so well-known, and deservedly known, all over the country, I mean S. T. Taylor's system, of New York City; and so far as getting our points to work from, is identical with my own. His system of getting square measure for his starting point, as well as my using it for my starting point, are precisely identical with each other. While bis system is in itself perfect, it requires a thorough practical knowledge of dressmaking to use it properly and successfully ; while in my system 1 have invented and patented eight different forms of shoulder, to fit the different forms of persons ; twelve different forms of dart, the various shapes of neck, and a variable chest, measure. I have combined the form of the person with the square, simplifj ing it aDd making it so easy as to bring it within the comprehension of even a child. I have tested it ; am perfectly willing to test it at all times. I, or any of my pupils, can fit any shape or form of person ; fit them accurately, and without re-fitting. I am proud to say, and the public will, I know, bear witness, so far as my system is known, that I have brought it to that stage of perfection that it cannot be improved upon, and I defy the world to produce anything, call it by what name they will, that can do the same perfect work my system will. I speak confidently of what my system will do. I have taken the square, placed it inside, with the form of the person outside, and as I have combined the two, I know it is right. I am willing at all times to test it, and on any form. There are hundreds of charts as well as other worse humbugs, who pretend to use the square, or actual measure system, who are claiming to be inventors of squares. I think some of the worst deceivers who are now before the public are those claiming to have patented squares. If they had ever owned or read the Bible, they would find the square was used in the building of Solomon's Temple. They are perhaps like a noted pre- tended inventress of a square. I called this fact to her mind, she not compre- hending who Solomon was ; said it was an infringement on hers ; and many others, even worse, are trying to take people's money, giving nothing in return but what is worthless. I shall now draw my remarks to a close, by urging all who intend to make dressmaking or dress-cutting their business, that they will give my system a fair, impartial trial. I never misrepresent in any way. I have estab- lished my prices as low as I can possibly afford to teach, so as to bring it within the means of all, and I always teach thoroughly, give satisfaction, or make no charge for instruction. My pupils are fitted to take a situation in any large establishment ; can command higher prices and give better satisfaction than by using any other method of cutting ; and no lady has ever failed to express her satisfaction when she has finished her instructions. Professor J. W. Livingston. 32 YARDS REQUIRED FOR DIFFERENT GARMENTS AND TRIMMINGS. When consulting the list below it should be borne in mind that each trim- ming is estimated in a certain width material, for a medium size pattern, and for the fashion of the present day. The skirts, sacques, polonaise, etc., all being scant and clinging, are very different in shape from those used hereto- fore. The fact of an entire change taking place in the costume, or of woman's dress, once in seven years, is being gradually realized. WAISTS. Waist, basque, 9 inches long, with sleeve, 2J yards of 27 inch, 3 yards of 24 inch. Waist, basque, 9 inches long, with sleeve, silesia, 2 yards. Waist, basque, 9 inches long, with sleeve, muslin, 2 yards. Waist, round, 2 yards of 27 inch, 2 J of 24 inch. Sleeve, coat, one pair, silesia, | yard. Sleeve, coat, one pair, drilling, 1J yards. Sleeve, coat, one pair, 24 inch, 1^ yards. SKIRTS. Skirt, walking, 40 front, 42 back, 4 yards of 27 inch, 4J of 24 inch. Skirt, walking, 40 front, 9-inch train, 4.J yards of 27 inch, 5 yards of 24 inch. Skirt, train, 15-inch train, 5 yards of 27 inch, 5J yards of 24 inch. Skirt, train, 20-inch train, 5J yards of 27 inch, 6 yards of 24 inch. Skirt, train, 35-inch train, 7J yards of 27 inch, 8 yards of 24 inch. POLONAISE. Polonaise, plain draped, 7 yards of 27 inch. 8 yards of 24 inch. THING ESSES. Princess, short walking, 8 yards of 27 inch, 9 yards of 24 inch. Princess, 18 inch train, 9 yards of 27 inch, 10 yards of 24 inch. Princess, 27 inch train, 10 yards of 27 inch, 11 yards of 24 inch. CLOAKS AND 8ACQUBS. Sacque, street, 36 inches long, 4 yards of 27 inch, 4 J yards of 24 huh. Sacques, street, 50 inches long, 5 yards of 27 inch, 6 yards of 24 inch. WRAPPER. Wrapper, French sacque, 5 yards of 36 inch. 8 yards of 27 inch. WATERPROOF. Waterproof, sacque and cape, 4J yards of .34 inch. Waterproof, circular, 3J yards of 54 inch. DOLMAN. Dolman, for light wrap, 1% yards of 54 inch. Mantelet, medium size, 1 yard of 54 Inch. DRESSING-GOWN. Dressing-gown, gents'. 3 yards of 54 inch. Snioking-gown. gents', 2 yards of 54 inch. Night-shirt, gents', 3 yards. of 36 inch. • Day-shirt, gents', 3 yards of 36 inch. UNDERCLOTHING. Chemise, plain, 2J yards of 36 inch. Chemise. 4-inch ruffle on burton. 3 yards of 36 inch. Night-dress, plain, 5 yards of 36 inch. Drawers, plain, 1} yards of 36 inch. Dressing sacque, 2£ yards of 36 inch. Apron, plain, J yard of 27 inch. TRIMMINGS. Ruffle, bias, 2.V inches wide for 3-yard skirt. J yard of 27 inch, -| yard of 24 inch. Ruffle, bias. 5 inches wide for 3-yard skirt, J yard of 27 inch, 1 yard of 24 inch. Ruffle, bias, W inches wide for 3-yard skirt. 1J yards of 27 inch, 2 yards of 24 inch. Kilt flounce, unplaited. should be three times its length when plaited. Puffs should be graduated by the rule for ruffles. GENERAL c T beg leave to call your attention to the General Purchasing Agency I have added to my business. DRESS MAKERS, MILLINERS, AND OTHERS, ARE INFORMED THAT Eonls fill te Sent ai Less Cost AND OF AS FINE QUALITY as can be found in the City, as I have made arrange- ments with Wholesale Dealers, and can furnish Goods or Trimmings at a small commission, thereby saving the expense of a trip to the City. ALL OltDEHS MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY ONE -THIRD OF THE AMOUNT OF BILL.. LIST OF PRICES FOR SYSTEMS. System in wood, mounted in silver, with instructions $25 00 System in leather-board, bound in silver, with instruct ions 20 00 System in leather-board, bound in brass, with instructions 15 00 System in wood, mounted with silver, without instructions 15 (to System in leather-board, bound in silver, without instructions 10 00 System in leather-board, bound in brass, without instructions 5 00 System in leather-board, unbound 3 00 Two systems, leather-board, bound in brass 8 00 Two systems, leather-board, unbound 5 00 Extra — Instructions for cutting children's garments. 2 50 Instructions for cutting ladies' and children's underwear 2 50 Instructions for cutting boys' clothing-, extra 6 00 Cutting gentlemen's shirt and dressing-sack 2 50 One instruction book 1 00 One dozen books 10 00 Half dozen books 5 50 Superior tracing wheels, each 50 One dozen wheels 4 50 Superior tape measures, each 50 One dozen measures 3 50 Bias rule, separate from system 1 00 Armsize, separate from system 1 00 French fashion journals furnished at lowest prices. All inquiries, with postage-stamp enclosed, promptly answered. Systems sent on receipt of P» O. order, registered letter— or C. O. D. when the Express Charges are forwarded with the order. SPECIAL TERMS TO AGENTS. PATTERNS BY THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 013 973 077 P f A set of patterns comprises a dozen different styles, including Basques, Jackets, Polonaises, Tunics, Wrappings, etc. They are $9 and $12 per dozen. The $12 sets are composed of imported tissue papers, of different colors, fancifully trimmed. The $9 sets represent the same design and trimming, but in a heavier paper of a light buff tint, manufactured especially for our demand. The latter are $5 per half dozen. Trimmed skirts arc not included in the dozen, as they belong virtually to costumes. Costumes vary in price from $6 to $25, according to the elabora- tion of design and trimming. PRICE LIST OP SINGLE TRIMMED PATTERNS. Trimmed Polonaises cost from $1 50 to $2 00 apiece. « Basques " 1 25 to 1 75 " " Over-skirts « 1 25 to 2 00 u « Sacques " 1 25 to J 75 " « AYiapper " 2 00 to 4 00 << Children's Costumes " 2 00 to 1 00 " Each trimmed pattern has a plain duplicate to cut from. PRICE LIST OF PLAIN PATTERNS. Polonaise - $ Polonaise, both sides Basque Jacket - Train Skirt Demi-train Skirt Walking Skirt Over-skirt Over-skirt, both sides Eobe-de-Chambre Princess Dress Talma Opera Cloak Water-proof Circle Pelisse Sack Fichu Sleeve Misses' Polonaise ( Jhild's Polonaise Child's Over-skirt Child's Sack Child's Talma Plain Patterns, per dozen, $6. (-0 00 50 50 00 75 75 50 75 00 00 50 50 50 50 50 35 20 50 35 50 25 25 Price, 50 Cenls. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 013 973 077 A Hollinger Corp.