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Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 872-4503
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1
2
3
1
2
3
4
5
6
h-
Vf.vY
HORSESHOE FALL FROM GOAT ISLAND
h^ll IX
'' ^. ■^. ^r ■■■■■■■■■ ■• Mi.-{:M^
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"^■^^"^i ^^^^fc-^'
AMERICAN FALL FROM GOAT ISLAND.
C'.;,:^..:.,,.-, ■ .• -».y ,ir'3'
GROSSING NIAGARA ON A TIGHT ROPE AND MAID OF THE MIST
HOBSESHOf: FALL AND THREE SISTETB ISLAND
bridge: to first gi^.^- .-j.-amo.
THE NEW SUSPENSION BRIDGE,
m
A NDRLW WALLACE AND HIS HORSE ON SUMMIT OF GREAT iCE MOUNTAIN
Wl
SIGNORINA SPELTLRINA IN HER HIGH ROPE PERFORMANCE. WINTER WONDERS IN THE PARK.
WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS- RAILWAY SUSPENSION BRIDGE andCANTI LEIVEK BRIDGE
SWIMMING THE WHIRLPOOL RAC'IDS.
^S
INDIAN TAMILY.
NEW SUSPENSION BRIDGEandFALLS .
AMERICAN RAPIDS a INTERNATIONAL HOTEL.
PROSPECT POINT.
BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF HORSESHOE FALL
MAID OF THE MIST IN WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS,
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BRIDGE TO BURNING SPRINGS AND OLARK HILL ISLANDS.
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BRIDGE TO SECOND SISTER ISLAND. BRIDGE TO THIRD SISTER iSLA
ND.
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OENERAL VIEW FROM NEW SUSPENSfON BRIDGE. RAPIDS PROM TH I PD SISTER ISLAND.
47/1
DAVEY'S
IlLLUSTRATED GUIDE.
TO
NIAGARA FALLS.
:-iV^»>A^S»^:S^
I
^'^•-•>'^m'!ilMnmM'm^•'':mm»■^^mp^^»^,«^J^^
DAVETS GUIDE TO NIAGARA FALLS
being
a complete guide to all the points of interest around
and in the immediate neighbourhood.
EMBELLISHEB WITH VIEWS
copied from photographs
made especially for this work
PUBLISHED
by
RAILEOAD NEWS & ADVERTISING Co.
LONDON ONTARIO.
Also Publisher of
GRAND TRUNK DAILY BULLITIN
and
DETROIT RAILROAD BULLITIN.
/ B 5 ^ O 8 6
To the visitor!
In arranging this rvork, great care has been taken to make it
in every resjyect, correct, and tvorthy of the attention of the visitor,
and to render it both concise and comprehensive, combining all the
useful features of my other ^publication on Niagara, vith numerous
improvements, calculated to adapt it to the presant demands. With
these many features of excellence, it is confidently hoped that this
work will be appreciated, as a valuable assistant to the visitor, and
« ready guide and advisor, under every difficulty which may beset
ihc tourist at Niagara Flails.
• The author.
INDEX.
Page
Introduction g
Ovat Island Bridge ..'..*.!!!!'!** 10
Rapids above the Falls .•'..!!!!'.!!!] U
Bath Island .'.'.** 12
Goat Island , • • .
Luna Island • , , ! ! ! ! ^ .' ' 13
Bi<ldle )"tairs .*.'.',** 13
Cave of the Winds ...!!*. *. *. '.',!* *. 14
Sam Patch .*.*.*.',' 14
Terrapin Tower *.'.!!'.'.!!! 15
Three sister Islands *.'.*.*.*.*!* 15
Head of Goat Island !!!!!!!' 15
Prospect Park !.!!!!!.' 16
Inclined Railway .*.'.'.*'.*!* 16
Whirlpool Rapids ....'.,*!.* .* * *!.'.' 17
Whirlpool !!!!!' 18
Railway suspension Bridge .....'!!.*.*.* ig
Cantilever Bridge .'.*.'.*.*.** 20
American Falls .*!!.'.**' 20
Table Rock .,*.**,'!'* 91
Horse shoe Fall ... . .*.'..* 21
New suspension Bridge ! ! ! * 2^
Lundy's Lane Battle-ground ....'.*.*.*'* 23
The Devil's Hole !.*!!'.* <^4.
Top of Mountain .*!.*!!.*.*.* 24
Brock's Monument . , *.!*.!!' 25
Indian Village !!!.*.* ,* ' ' 05
Whirlpool Rapids, Canada side . . . . .* .* .' .' ' 26
Whirlpool, Canada side * ] 26
Museum
Cyclorama ..!'**
«Maid of the Mist» '
Avery on the log
Blondin ^^^°': '^' ""^'^•'^ °^ ^^« f^^^s
Niagara by Mooniight *
Niagara in Winter .
The roar of the Falls '
The river above the Falls
The river below the Falls
Geology of Niagara
The first white visitor*
A daring feat . . .
Capt. Webb's fatal swim *
The Hotels ....
Carriages and Hackrnen !
Distances
Admission fees and Tolls*
Accidents, suicides, and narrow escaops'
Legend of the white Canoe ^
New «Maid of the mist. .
Father Hennepin's Description
The village of Niagara Falls
Descriptive pieces ....
I
2tt
1'6
5i7
"27
28
29
lid
30
31
31
31
32
38
38
38
41
43
44
44
45
51
52
52
54
^ -
I
2b
i'O
"27
"27
28
29
id
30
31
31
:n
32
38
38
38
41
43
44
44
45
51
52
52
54
55
Davey's guide to Niagara Falls.
Introduction.
Nature has many water-falls and cataracts, but only one Niagara
Niai^ara Falls may be justly classed among the wonders of
the world. They are the pride of America. Their grandeur
magnitude, and magnificence, are well known to the civilized
world. Ever since the discovery of this wonderful cataract, thousands
have flocked hither from all countries, to gaze with feelings of
the deepest solemnity on the tumultuous fall of waters and to
adore the power and majesty of the Almighty as these are exhibited
and realized amid the sublime scenery of this stupendous water-
fall. The power of the Almighty is here more grandly exhibited
than in any other scene on earth. The Falls cannot be described
there is too much sublimity, majesty and over whelming grandeur
for mortal to comprehend or explain. The great features of Niagara
are ever the same, but their individual expression is continually
changing. With every season, with every sunbeam, with every shade
they assume a different appearance, inspire fresh interest, and
compel new admiration. No place on the civiUzed earth offers such
attractions and inducements to visitors. They can be never fully
known, except to those who see them, from the utter impossibility
of aescribing such a scene. When nature can be expressed by
color, then there will be some hope of imparting a faint idea of
A*7 *^"^"")^^ ^.hat can be done, Niagara must remain undescribed
At hrst sight, visitors are sometimes disappointed. Either their
expectations have been raised too hieh. or ths «rpnp cnmoooo.
what they had anticipated. The second view is frequently' morj
impressive than the first. ^
I
1
- 10 —
TiHtor, having an» minH il .„ • 1 "°' °" ''ecord where the
formed by th'e precipitous des tnt o?{he'NiatTRiveJ'dr*'TJi ''
of rocks,, more than one hundrprl onV • ?^ x^^®!' ^°^'^ * '^^&^
height into an ahyss. or^ Sn^^lrof^'^tntllp^r "''•=" '"^
into U.e-Ontario. ther'^y ^f^^ ^^^.f^^^^^
two countries. '"* Horse-shoe Fall between the
ro„rteen fiom LaTe Srb" Tn {he^foM ''• '™'" ^'"^'^ ^"^ ''"'»
attempt to guide the traveller to Mi th ""."« F^^ "^ ^lia"
the best views may be obtained «ni ,h '"'«" »f. interest wher.
the spots of peculiar "nterest in ^h. r ' -"m ^T' °"' '" him
''iippose, now, reader von h/,?! ■ , "'^■^. neighbourhood. Let us
F"lls on theAmerSn^s^de tit ^•'f^ed the village of Niagara-
train, and that you do not wnt "Jo ^T '"'' "'^'''^'^ ^'"'^ ""e
is superfluous to give you SL r"*^? °' l» *» » ^otel. It
follow the carriages and s?a J"" H '^"^«'="T how to proceed;
generally take an^omn"bus?fom ,h„ /"",'"" ^^ "e'>'- Visitors
selected' All the prTncinal hoTl- .l^'P"'' '"•? ^°^^^ previously
The distances to the different nninf/ *"• """"•'"" '" ^"^^^ f^'n
may either walk .r ride as he ma" !'-• '»^'^'''''-''° ""*' ">e tourist
to state that the distances are trjreiAA """'d. Perhaps be as well
The street between t!ie G ,Hm 7^"". '° «".P°i"ts of interest,
to the river where ifs spam'eU by '"'""»"»"'" ""tels leads
Goat Island Bridge.
..-.'"'.* .'"'''?ge is ahout 40 rods ahnyp th- p„ii. ^,.,_ .
."u suosta..t,ai structure . was erected by mTs;.; Porter.'^lhe
- u
enjoys and
where the
mdeur, has
cataract is
wn a ledge
rpendiciilar
1.
surplus of
' is passed
rence into
erican and
tween the
longitude,
e Erie and
we shall
est where
it to him
Let us
f Niagara-
from the
hotel. It
proceed;
Visitors
ireviously
ery train.
le tourist
)e as well
'interest,
tels lead."
elegant
ter, the
proprietors of Goat-Island. It is on the plan of the Whipple iron
arched bridge, i« 360 feet long, having four arohes of ninety
teet span each. Their width is twenty seven feet. The first
bridge that was thro^vn across these turbulent waters was constructed
at the head of Goat- Island in 1817, it was carried away by the ice
in the following spring, and was succeeded by another built in
1818 on the site of the present bridge. Tliis was repaired in 1831),
again, in 1849. T!ie present bridire was erected in 1856. The
inquiry is olten made, how was it ever constructed over such a
tremendous rapid? The difficulties attending its construction
were overcome in the following manner: A massive abutment of
timber was built at the water's edge, fiorn which were projected
enormously long and heavy beams of timber. These beams were
secured on the land s'de by heavy loads of stone; their outer ends
were rendered steady by means of stilts or legs let down from
them and thrust into the bottom of the river. A plalt'orm was
thrown over the projection, along which a strong framework of
timber, filled solidly with store, was carried and sunk into the
river. To this pier the first permanent portion of the bridge was
fixed ; then commencing from the extremity, beams were run out
and a second pier similarly formed ; and so on till the bridge was
completed.
This is one of the finest points of view from which to
'observe the
Rapids above the Falls.
Here the first perceptions of power and grandeur begin to
awaken in our minds. The noble river is seen hurrying on towards
its final leap; as we stand upon the bridge, looking down upon
the rushing flood of water, that seems as if it would sweep away
our frail standing-ground and hurl us over the dread precipice,
whose rounded edge is but a few yards further down, we begin,
though feebly as yet, to realize the immensity of this far-famed
cataract. The fall of the river from the head of the rapids (H of
a mile above) to the ed^e of the precipice is nearlv 60 feet, and
mcreases in velocity, from seven to thirty miles an hour. The
I
If
— 1:2 —
tumultuous madness of the watpr« linrUr,^ j *
ward billows and breakers dowT\he S^^e^enft if "?^".?- ^^ ''^^'
impatience, is a fine contrast tn \hl "^^'f "^' ^^ ^^ frettmg with
with which at length 'hev ruth intn .r'^J"" magnificent sweep
Midway between the brfd J nn/ *-^- ^^""^^^ing flood below
Rockjsee description of^^v^ery t K'^'" "'^ '^ "^" ^-^y'»
We will now pass over the bridge to
Bath-Island.
the Niag\":'kKper mit s'.id ft ^" ^^*^"*' "P^" -^ich is
manufacturing eLEm"ns%rttu^^^^^^
up are two small Islands, called "sK^d^^^^^^^^
their supposed resemblance fn that !. *• , , • ^ ^^'^"^' f^o™
former rs%requently""'S W,XS l1'' "1^ \''
river, we see several small Islets mn.fnf V- ^^°°'""!f down the
connected with thrillinTrncidents • Tr L ^^^'"".''/.? ''"'"•« "■• '«s'
refer the traveller to h.!' '^°'\?™P''ic details of which we
•earned in loclFtradition '''"'^^'■^"'''^ «nd guides, who are
passeT'but'smane?)!'^"'"' """*''' ""'^^ ^'"""^ '» '•'^ ""« j''^*
Goat-Island.
Goat-Island contains 62 acres- U o i,»iu
crcumference, and heavily timbered In ?77n , """u ^ .u""'* '"
of Stedman placed some J»t, wi , '"'""• » ""an hy the name
It was originally called IrfsIsLn^f ^^u'"''*' •>""•=« ^^e name,
rainbows that L irfreTuen f v J?^ the number of beautiful
visited long betore the RrS T. " "*■" "• '^°«' '^lan,! was
were not numerous the 1^ h^W '"""-'"'^'f^' Ji"' »''« visitor,
1772, 1779, under tL ntJ! f ^ T^ ^''**'- ^he dates 1771,
in b echtrees"ne:r\t HTr'-slrrJif "™"^"'' ''''"' '-"*' -^
. paX cld^T"lr'g"vlrb'";'',r''''^^^ ofSamue.She,wood
services rendered. imL.Sr .k^ ['^^.^"' « ?' P^X for military
land on any of the ■'unsoM"L";r "'•'"""' •" ""•'''''' ^00 acres of
J ot ine unsold o' "-aopropriated land belonging to
13
ig in way-
Jtting with
;ent sweep
3od below.
in Avery*s
which is
jest paper
tie higher
ind, from
[•aft. The
down the
re or less
which we
who are
one just
mile in
the name
le name,
beautiful
land was
i visitors
:es 1771,
)und cut
herwood
"lilitary
acres of
iging to
I
th^ State. Part of this they located on Goat and other adjacent
islands, nnmediately above and adjoining the Great Falls, their
patent beanng date 1816 and signed by Daniel D. Tompkins as
governor, and Martin Van Buren as Attorney-General of New York.
An early record says the Island once contained 250 acres of land.'
In approaching the Island we ascend the hill and take the
road to the right (live minutes wp.lk) which leads to
Luna-Island.
This little Island, adjacent to Goat Island is connected with
It by a foot bridge over the stream that forms the Centre Fall,
this stream, though a mere ribbon of white foam when seen from
a short distance, in contrast with the other Falls, is by no means
unworthy of notice. It is one hundred feet wide, and is a very
graceful sheet of water. From Luna Island (which is so called
because it is the best point from which to view the beautiful
lunar-bow) a view of the river below the falls, the Inclined Railway,
the Uve of the Winds, the two suspension Bridges in the distance,
the American and Centre Falls, may be seen to advantage, the
visitor being located at the edge of the precipice of the American
*all. ihis view is thought by many to be unsurpassed.
It has often been remarked by strangers that this Island trem-
bles, which is undoubtedly true; but the impression is heightened
by imagination.
It was while climbing over the rocks directly under this
Island, that Dr. Hungerford, of Troy, N. Y., was killed in the
bprmg of^ 1839, by the crumbling of a portion of the rock from
u ^x\®* . , . ** ^^^® °^^^y accident thai ever occurred at Niagara
by the falling of rock.
ReLurning to Goat Island, we proceed a few yards to
Biddle Stairs.
ThpV WPrti aranioA i*ti 1 COn f xU _ - ...
J •"- - -!■---'-« lii iu^if, lui uie purpose of enabhna
"" f M ^'^.^f''^^"^ ^J? ^*^« ^ave of the Winds, and were named
atter Mr. Biddle of Philadelphia, who contributed towards their
- 14 —
tTof b.,„k'f!>'h!li? "''■ ^?oJ'f ^'^^ "^''^ ""^l <ii^t«nce from
dressing room, fn ?{r " 'l^ ^'"-:'-, ^"™^^' "^ ^^^P^ >3i Here ar.
aressmg rooms for those who wish to go into the far-famed
Cave of the Winds.
w ..'['"'/PPellat.ion by which it is known is entirely annronriafo
n^ e sarv to"m, °o '"'l '""^'r, «« ^^^'^ ^-^hrWeU^'T,
admhfnl ?o2 T, "'•'^'-PW^'f dresses and obtain a guide. (Se.
Kern eZn H t /" 'V? '\ '""'='> "'^'t^'l ''y I'l'lies as wel as
subst?Xm if Mf» ""•'' ^^ ["^l f "°" °^ "'« '^^'^f <"> the soft
lime stir rfl ,?'■'"?■'"'• "''"".^ "^^^ '"^™ washed away and the
ft-nn. .r , '"" ^'■'■'""S overhead 30 feel beyond the base In
of tL''reme'nrt';;""" '^"' ^°™^ l''«^"''f"' '■"^''■"- '" consequence
with nernHnLl „,'"■'''"'.%?" "'^ atmosphere, the cave is filled
cTaotif '^A K \ T' ?"u^ ""^ '™'' °f conflicting elements is quit.
Chaotic. A beautiful rainbow, quite circular in form quivers amiJ
the driving spray when the sum shines. Along the floor oflhb
hTt"s"st Hker,L" '"n '"'7 *%'^"'-'<''^ ^''"^ Ireat vioT„ce.'»
U,.: :, . "'* ™"' ^"^ curls upwards along the roof thn.
wS'it'beVs'!™"'' "'"' '^^ P'-'"^"''^'' for this' ,^ace'?Sl WU
front"nT.i?""i T,"^ ^'alk out on bridges and platforms, directly in
front of the Falls anout 40 feet distant. With the Fklls nourins
alrT^i^i ^?"'' 1'"^'.^°" '"•« '" the midst of heavy spray indZl
Tr™?y thf-f i"""^ ^'* '^' ^•"'■' ^"-l ««"«^«' tun>ult'^a%und yo"t
seetl thf '^ ''"",", ""T"' '° ^'^ forgotten. No tourist should mL
seeing this remarkable phenomenon.
Near the Biddle stairs the celebrated
Sam Patch
foo?'of'Ih/r"n.'f''"V?P'' V^?^- ^ '"'''^^^ ^^^ PJaCC<3 at the
foot of the rock and fastened with ropes in such a manner that
distance of STfee. - No^cont^lirwit'h^ C^.^^.^^'^
I
. irr,;tfl«.fti!^^-,--;
stance from
± Here are
-famed
ippropriate.
feet. It is
^uide. (See
as well as
)n the soft
ly and the
e base. In
>nsequence
ve is filled
its is quitt
ivers amid
)or of thii
tlence , so
roof thus
B the title
lirectly in
Is pouring
\ and are
>und you:
lould miss
ed at the
nner that
1 laid on
; river^ a
he after-
I
~ 15 —
wards made a higher leap of Genesee Falls, Rochester, where he
was killed. After ascending the stairs we proceed a little further
walk down ^ few steps, and cross a little bridge to what was once
Terrapin Tower.
This tower occupied a singular and awful position. A few
scattered rocks he on the very Brink of the Fall, seeming as if
unable to mamtam their position against the tremendous rush of
Toof I "P°"^*hese rocks the tower was built ; it was erected in
1833 by Judge Porter. A few years ago it was removed being
considered unsafe. •
Here we obtain the most magnificent view that can be cur»-
ceived : the rapids above rolling tumultuously towards you — the
green water of the mighty Fall at your feet - below vou the
hissing caldron of spray, and the river with its steep bank beyond ;
m fact, the whole range of the Falls themselves, and the world
of raging waters around them, are seen from this commandhig
point of view. •
Passing on along the edge of the Rapids (5 minutes vralk)
we come to the r v «.,
Three Sisler Islands.
u JI^I^! Islands are now connected to Goat Island by three
beautiful foot bridges, from which the best view of the rapids is
to be obtained, (see narrow escapes).
Continuing our way a short distance along the rapids we
come to the ^
Head of Goat Island.
Here we view the broad and placid river above, spread out
jn a beautiful wide sheet of water. In the distance we see Navy
Island, celebrated in the history of border warfare, the site of old
Fort Schlosser, on the American side, md the town of Chippewa
You notice the current is rapid btit not broken here, 'and
sets directly from the shore to this spot. Here is where it is
- It) —
PutaamM''%".?' "^^l' '"''° '^'^ ■^'•""J "Pon Goat Island Israel
head of this islanra^d returned ^Tut T^- '^"'^' * '"P '° "»«
crossed occasionally, as trac^^ "^^ J.titrbel^/^d ^^^^^^^
clrcuuT?L'l":„r W^^Ll^ve'tw""™'^' ''^^'"^ ""''' ">« -"«
over 2 miles. ^ """^ "'"<'« " J°"™ey of a little
.f i^\i7^ (ZuriTy^l tf ^" *"' "*''- •'o- the bank.
Prospect Park.
of thl'lmetarCen^S^^^^ -f, \-brace, fine views
worth coming many miles to sef Hpr/ / ^^'" ^^"^deed a sight
behold Niagara stretcWn^ frnnf tho a ' -^^ ^""^ ^'^^ ^^^ep, we
Turning from the Falls, we come to the
Inclined Rail-way
down which visitors are carried in r^ar^ wnrbn^ i.
— 17 —
/
and. Israel
Niagara,, at
trip to the
} to have
■Qund here.
the entire
of a little
the banks
fme views
ed a sight
weep, we
nada side
of the
he abyss.
l1 nature
r power,
ne view
side ol
Drefer it
3ps 290.)
. to the
vhich is
some consider the view from the ferry boat the grandest of all.
The depth of the river is about 200 feet.
Now reader, we have viewed the Falls from all the principal
pomts on the American side, and those who do not take the boat
to Canada will return with us to the park above.
If the preceding tour has been done on foot, those who have
followed us thus far wiU need a little rest, after which, we suggest
a carnage be now engaged, then we will proceed to the other
pomts of interest on the American side, and after visit the Queen's
domains.
Our next point of interest will be the
Whirlpool Rapids.
This wonderful spot is about two miles from the Falls, down
the rushing green river which, flowing at profound depth between
high banks, looks so quiet yet sullen after leaving the howling
abyss at the foot of the falls. At Whirlpool Rapids ! what a
change! The whole force of the ^.ater concentrates itself here,
it seems as though it would tear asunder the steep, wooded hills
that enclose it, so wild and startling it its terrific power; as far
as the eye can roach the wa!er thunders down in seething heaving
masses of foam, throwin;^^ up streams of water covered witli spray,
and in places whirling it up into angry billows twenty or thirty
feel above the head of the spectator standing on the shore. It is
deafening in its roar, and here, even more than at the brink ©f
the Falls, we can have a realization of the terrific force of Niagara.
B'or a this poinf. which is only about 300 feet wide, the united
waters of Lake Superior, Michigan, St. Glair, Huron and Erie,
thunder along at the rate of 37 miles an hour. According to Sir
Charles Lyell's calculations, lally fifteen hundred million*^ cubic
feet of-^water rush throusrh this fforo-f PVPry mmute E'^Ht"'^*'*'^
depth 300 feet.
— 18 —
To promote the comfort and convenience of visitors a donh1»
elevator was erected in 1869, at a cost of twenty Uousanddo^krl
and IS a perfect specimeii of mechanical skill and Znul Th»
machinery ,s worked by water-power, transmitted from a'^whl^t
placed some 300 feet below the top of the bank! Havr. returneJ
to our carnage, let us proceed one mile further down 01^10 "he
Whirlpool.
.« .P® ''t''.°" <'0"taining the Whirlpool is nearly eiri-nl=r ^r,A
by his own carelessness, fallen intoTnit fan H^ fi f •'"''I'"'?'
f^r[sto ^pe' "^^^t:"'' '^'h^ nil ^"•f™ticn:.t'7,^:%"f!
of water, yet it has answered every purpose for thousands of veS
coiieje^y-rj rXht ^r'^i.J'tz:^ £^ri'
bridge and return by the other, we will first croi the 'old L'"'
Rail-way Suspension Bridge,
This bridge is a noble and stupendous structnrp . ;♦ ^^^u-
.n an emment degree, strength wit'h elegance of st^ctrel't"!:
— 19 —
s, a double
and dollars,
luity. The
n a wheel
»g returned
river to the
rcular and,
ne. But as
are disap-
>se, in the
le bottom,
is several
is formed
red course
asin. We
river to a
suddenly,
impulse is
futile ef-
f, appears
3t amount
! of years.
Deveaux
n the ad-
the whole
isitor will
American
e United
by one
>ld or
combines
re. It is
owned by a stock company, and cost $ 500,000. Architect Mr. John
A. Roebhng of Trenton, New-Jersey. This bridge is of enormous
strength, and forms communication between the United-States and
Canada, over which the cars of the Grand Trunk and Erie Rail-
road pass withont causing much vibration. It was commenced in
1852 ; the first cars passed over it on the 8tb of March 1855. The
road for carriages is suspended 28 feet below the rail-road line.
The bridge is now wholly composed of iron and steel except the
floor of the carriageway, $ 100,000 having just been expended in
taking out the parts made of wood and substituting iron and steel.
It is a remarkable fact, that the traffic was not impeded while
these extensive repairs were going on. The following statistics in
regard to this great structure will not be out of place here:
Length of span from <-ntre to centre of towers
Height of tov.ers above the rQ(;k, American side
* » » » > 2> Canaela side .
» » » > » floor of Railway
» » track above the water
Number of Wire cables
Diameter of each cable
Number of N® 9 wires in each cable' ....
Ultimate aggregate strength of cables ....
Weight of superstructure
Maximum weight cables and stays will support .
825 feet
88 »
78 >
60 »
258 »
4 »
10 ^^ inches
3,6*)9 tons
12,400 »
800 >
7,309 »
Grand Trunk through trains east and west run across this
bridge, affording passengers a fine view of the whirlpool Rapids
where the famous Gapt Webb was drowned, the river below, and
a distant view of all the Falls.
The Grand Trunk railway, with its powerful and direct con-
nections, and extensive and continuous through line, is a favorite
route. Ever alive to the interests of its patrons, it has yearly
improved its track, roHing stock and motive power; it passes
through a section of country in which there is a great varr*:'ty of
grand and beautiful scenery, and in all that makes a route de-
sirable to the traveling public this line cannot be surpassed.
— 20 —
In close proximity we perceive the new
_ . Cantilever Bridge.
side p~e of winH ^f *"*"g 'h« entire length, and under a
then ^rSn h„ , ' /.' ^^^''"'y "^^^ "'"«'« l'«" hnu'-. and even
then It will be strained to only one fifth of its ultimate stren-th
The following are the dimensions. "'"maie strength.
Total length of Bridge proper 910 feet
Length of canti-lever?, 375 and 395 feet.
Length of fixed span 125 feet.
Length of clear span across the river, .500 feet
Height of Abutments, 50 feet.
Heigh' of steel towers, 130 feet.
Height of clear spar, above the rival-, 2*5 feet
lotal vveight resting on steel columns, l.S.IO tons.
the b^"lg^"aafn!"'n" '''"'"''' *■""'" "^'^^^ ^'"^ '""^ ■■"" ^'^^'O^^
S .u' r n •^'^'^^ *" '*'™'''S' uninterrupted view of the r ver
below the Falls in all of its incessant changes. We may mention
in passing that here are two caves, Callin's cave and the GLrsc-ve
between the Bridge and the Falls, on the Ainerican ,'.?,? 84,^'^
The ne.,"'r' ■•'"'• ?'"^.y ""' ^'"'''"■' ""t wo thy of ,^o ce
Iho next stopping point is, in front of the
American Falls.
Iridge, built
ailway with
iciple never
Two similar
le new Tay
oncl for the
^l Gohimbia.
ver bridges,
'idgre is not
tlie whole
two of the
d under a
, and even
e strength.
run across
fe view of
J Miciiigan
g'ara Fa Us,
a side, is
the river
Y mention,
ant's cave,
1 Bender's
of notice.
- 21 —
Comprising the American and Centre Fall. These Falls are
one quarter of a mile wide, and have a perpendicular height of
164 feet. It is estimated ])y Sir Charles Lyell that not less than
one hundred and fifty millions of cubic feet of water pass over
these (2) Falls every minute. They are characterized by an irre-
gularity that gives them a wild and singular beauty. The outline
is far-projecting and deeply indented. The water flows over a
broad, billowy stream, and is thrown out by craggy points in a
hundred places, so that it passes down in a snow-white drapery,
and possessing so much beauty and variety that it delights while
it awes one almost forgets its immensity while contemplating its
singular beauty. Driving on a short distance we come to the famous
Table Rock.
In Jiliuding to this view, Charles Dickens says: — ^Jt was
not till 1 came on Table Rock, and looked on the fall of bright
green water, that it came upon me in its full might and majesty.
The Niagara was for ever stamped upon my heart, an image of
beauty, to remain there, changeless and indelible, until its pulses
cease to beat for ever."
Table Rock is no longer the extensive platform that it once
was — large portions of it having fallen from time to time. In
1818, a mass of 160 feet long and 40 feet wide broke off and fell
into the boiling flood ; and in 1828, three immense masses fell,
with a shock like an earthquake. Again, in 1829, another frag-
ment fell ; and in 1850, a portion of about 200 feet in length and
100 feet thick. On one of these occasions, some forty or fifty
persons had been standing on the rock a few minutes before it
fell ! The work of demolition still goes on, for another portion of
Table Rock fell in 1857. In 1867, a large crack or seam having
formed around it near the road, it was deemed unsafe, and the
Canadian Government caused it to be blasted away ; so now all
that remains of the once famous Table Rock is a huge mass of
rock at the edge of the river below tlie bank. It overhangs the
terrible caldron close to the great
iiui oc oiiuc rah.
The Horse shoe Fall extends from the Canada shore to Goat
Island, the width being estimated at 2376 feet; the perpendicular
height is 158 feet. It derived its name from its shape ; but it has
I
— 22
much altered since it wn^ numoA ti - ,
little the resemhlance of ^ hoTse shJi' VJ'' '^^^^« ^?" ^«« "«^
an inverted letter a! ^^^^e-shoe, having rather the shape of
The volume of water that robs over fhi« iTnii •
It IS estin.ated that the slieet is^fuTly^^O feet tS ' enormous.
or where it looks so green • an l^ L.TI IT- u^ *" ^^® *'«"*''•
in a singular nianr.er in V'^o a '!hT. ^^ ''''"f^,, ^^^« corroborated
been co. demned was Zo^t andl ^U^^^^ Vuf t'n\^^^"5
were put a live bear, a deer a bnffiln oIa I ' .^ ^°^^^
mals. The vessel was' ahno^t'l^^o'cked"^^ 'j^etrir!h^ T.
a large portion of her hull went over enHrP % f ^P'^^.' ^"^
feet of water, but did n^ stdke fh. .Hfl^ '"^ drew eighteen
awful iilunge. "^® *"® ^^^^ as she took the
pass'^ot^ Ihis^FTll^Ter^^'^nlnutf^'m '' ^"^^^ ^^^ °^ -ter
much to the ma^ ncrnt^randen^ nTn'-' ^^' '"" ^'""^^' '^ ^^^^
bow exiemUivr at times fr^nn. ?» a * ''' '^^''^' ^ ^^autiful rain-
can be seen ° A sSl s ^h V "^"^n ''?" ^° *^^ Horse shoe Fall
enables the" vislr' o gfd wT^nrnarfT "^ T?. 'l' ^'"''^^^'
view here is awfully grand T. wV I i ''^ "."^*'' ^^'^ ''a''' The
New Suspension Bridge.
possi-ngMi's and rjirriap-pe A ♦•o,, -i I ^i- _ ^o aesigned for foot
i
I
— -23 —
n has now
e shape of
enormous,
the centre
rroJ/orated
>it, having
On board
laller ani-
ipids, but
r eighteen
took the
of water
. it adds
iful rain-
shoe Fall
id guides,
^ali. The
frowning
he thick
t — and
roar that
> feeling
nth the
le lower
or foot
eaks of
eddies
and delicate wreaths of foam, just below the Falls, they have of
late years, woven a web of wire, high in air, and hung a bridge
from precipice to precipice. Of all the bridges made with hands.
It seems the slightest, most etherial. It is ideally graceful, and
droops from its slight towers like a garland. It is worthy to
command, as it does the whole grandeur of Niagara, and to show
the traveller, the vast spectacle, from the beginning of the American
Fall to the farthest Hmit of the Horse shoe. This is the longest
Suspension Bridge in the world. Its great length, symetrical form,
graceful curve and obvious strength, cannot fail to strike every
beholder with equal surprise and pleasure.
It is owned by a stock company, and cost Doll. 250,000.
The folio wmg particulars in regard to this structure may he of
mterest.
The span between the centre of towers is ,
Height above surface' of river
Height of towers above rock on Canada side
* * » » » > American side
1,268 feel
190 »
105 »
100 »
Base of towers 28 feet square, and top 4 feet square. The
bridge is supported by two cables, composed of seven wire ropes
each, which contain respectively 133 number 9 wires. The weight
of these wire ropes per lineal foot is 91bs, and the diameter of
the cable is 7 inches. The aggregate breaking strain of the cable
or^A* ^^"^' ^^^^ weight of bridge and appurtenances is about
250 tons. On arriving once more on the American shore we have
vLsited the principal points which comprise all that may be called
Seeing the Falls*', and travelled about 12 miles.
With the tourist who has the time and inclination we will
now, point out several localities in the vicinity, which are worthy
of attention, particularly on account of their historical associations
We mention first
Lundv's Lan^^ B;;ttlp..nrniind
This historical spot upon which the bloody battle was fought.
— 24 —
on the SStk day of July, 1814, between the British and American
forces, IS about a mile and a half west of the Fall on the Canad"
equal I'd iXl'J '"'^' -'d wounded o„ both^Mes wasTouI
equal, and both parties, as a matter of course, claim the victory.
The Devil's Hole.
.iH» A''^"' three and a half miles from the Falls, on the American
tlJU * -Jj^P' g'°°my chasm in the bank of the "ver ab"ut 120
feet deep. Overhanging this dark cave, „ is a perpend Jul'r nredn 11
from the top of which falls a small stream cXd the Boodv Run'
This stream obtained its name from the followinrtr'Liea TncMent "
- Durmg the French war in 1763, a detachment oB 1 "oldies
before the soldiers had time to form, poured into Their conCd
W„"nd ^ "/."If""^, ?"'y "f ''""«'^- The little s ream ran red wHh
- w;re"huri:d"ovt ^h? 7ff "'"r^i, "^^^""^' hor.es 'and ci^.i^s
were nuriea over the cliff into the yawnin" gulf helnw an-)
dashed to pieces on the rocks. Only two escaped ?o ell the' talp^
h'rou\"h 'the'"rt'ks"nf t'" '^ Mr. .sfedman, wKo dl^shel' h Ml
of bufletsi """'"'• ^"'' ^''''P'^'^ ""''' '' 'hower
Three mile* further down is
Top of Mountain.
^i.it^''!''* f® °° associatio.ns of interest connected with it- it is
visited sirnply on account of the pleasant drive and the'-^iand
vlll. nf i' ^-"f ^'■''"' 'i' *'*'="*'J P°^i"°"- -'"^t below is the
:tSf,ttT::iZV "uie*'-""""^'^^ ''""■' Qneenstown, between
ouipViu'» CM ; '^j """■' "^^'"' '""J "'ajestic in its recovered
qmetuce. In th» far dislan.e, on either side, stretches the richly
I
— 25 —
American
he Canada
was about
le victory.
American
about 120
precipice,
)ody Run.
incident :
ti soldiers
Schlosser
ans, then
umerous,
Kj among
'recipice ;
^irid, and
confused
red with
d drivers
ow, and
he tale:
lis horse
shower
t; it is
B grand
is the
>etween
covered
! richly
wooded landscape, dotted with villas and cottag^es. This is indeed
a fine view, and well repays the exertion of the drive. We see
opposite, on Queenscown Heights (Canada side).
Brock's I^lonumenl.
This monument was erected by the British Government, in
mrmiory of Sir Isaac Brock, the general commanding the army at
th.; battle of Queenstown Heights, on the 13^1^ day of October, 1812.
His rema^vs, and those of his aid-de-camp, Col. John Mc. Donald,
who died of wounds received in the same battle, are buried here.
I The first monument was completed in 1826, and was blown up ia
1810 by a man earned Lett, who was afterwards imprisoned for
this dastardly act. The {)resent handsome shaft was erected in
18.03. The height is 185 feet.fihe base is 40 feet square by
30 feet high ; the shaft is of freestone, fluted, 75 feet high and
30 feet in circumference, surmounted by a Corinthian capital, on
which stands a statue of the gallant General. The view from this
monument is mo-t impressive. Niagara is spread out before you,
the beautiful valiey for seven miles to Lake Ontario, in one grand
panoramic view, and the lake beyond, studded with white sails, is
one which is exc^^lled nowliere in the country.
Should the visihir be in Niagara on Sunday he will find a
:; very interesting service by attending church at the
Indian Village.
They have two churches, or meeting houses, here, in which
the services are conducted in the Indian dialect, then translated for
the benefit of those who do not understand it. One house is of
the Baptist persuasion, the other Presbyterian: for, of course, the
ancient superstitions of the race have faded away before the strong
light of Christianity, and the Great Spirit is worshipped only in
the name by which the while man calls it. From this village comes
all the beautiful bead- work, bows and arrows, Canoes, &c., seep
in the bazaais at Niagara. It is eight miles from the Fall.
I
■
~ ^6 —
It is proper to mention that at the
Whirlpool Rapids, Canada Side.
Tfae view is similar to the one we have seen on the American
side, being just oppo>ite. Tiiis point of inteiest is generally known
as the Whirlpool Kapids Park, and comprises the natural uplands
of the river hank, which at this point, are 'IbO feet hij^h, as well
as a road at the l)ase of the cliff, which follows the course of the
river, and has been excavated from the rock. In the warm days
of Slimmer this is a most deligtfully cool and shady retreat , the
cli^ tormmg a natural protection from the rays of the sun, while
th,« immediate presence of the swift-rolling waters ensures a peren-
nial coolness. Two means of access to the water's edge are provided,
ihe first being a series of steps forming a long flight of stairs, and
the other a unique mclined railway operating two cars running
by the specific gravity of water in the tanks under e? -h car filled
from a spring at the top of the cliff and emptied on the arrival
of the cars at the foot of the incline. The ascent or descent if
made in 1 % minutes, the loaded car from above being the motive
power used to hoist the lighter car from below.
An other inclined rnihvay enables us to reach the water's edge
^t ti^^ Whirlpool Canada Side.
The view does not materially differ from the one previously
described on the American side, and is much visited.
We think it ri.-ht to say that the illustrations with which
this litUe book is embellished may be depended on as being
minutely correct, having been copied fi-om photographs, made by
Niagara's distinguished aitists, whose beautiful views of Niagara
scenery are so well known Lo the public. In the preceding pages
we have visited the various points around the Falls and pointed
out the places of interest in their neighbourhood. We will now, in
a few words, give the reader a brief history of some of the local
surroundings and events.
IVliiseiim
is situated on flannl St., opj)osit<^ Prospect Park. - The building was
erected expressly for the juirpose, is a large and massive stone edifice.
The collection is immense having been gathered at great expense
from all parts of tli- world. Tlie collection of Egyptian Mum-
mies is said to be the best in America. — It is well worth the
&d-mission fee.
Cyclorama of the Battle of Gettysburg
is also on Canal St. and is much visited by tourists.
e American
rally known
iral uplamls
^^h, as well
urse of the
warm days
Btreat , the
sun, while
es a peren-
■e provided,
stairs, and
^rs running
h car filled
the arrival
descent if
the motive
ater's edge
previously
^ilh which
as being
i, made by
of Niagara
ding pages
id pointed
ill now, in
' the local
ilding was
►ne edifice,
at expense
Mill Mum-
worth the
27
"IVIiiid of the IVIist".
This little steamer u.^ed to run from her dock near the Railway
Suspension Bridge up to the Falls, passing so close to the falling
waters as to seem to those looking down upon her, to almost pasi
under the sheet. Water-proof garments were provided, and the
trip was an exciting one. The steamer was built expressly for
this brief voyage, being an excellent boat of 170 tons burden
with an engnie of above 100 horse-power. The owners having
found her unprofiiable, she was sold to a Montreal firm, with the
condition that she should be s.tely navigated through the Rapids
and Whirlpool. This dangerc^us experiment was undertaken by
Joel R. Robinson the her(. of Niagara) with but two assistants
r iV!u^,''Lf' "^ i""''^^- ^^'^ '"'^■'^ ^*^^ mooring.^ near the Bridge,
June 15th, 1861, and swung boldly out into the river, to try one
ot the most perilous voyages ever made. She shoe forward like an
arrow ot light, and with the velocity of lightning passed on, as
many supposed, to meet her doom. Many beheld this hazardous,
darmg adventure, expecting every instant she would be dashed to
pieces and disappear for ever. Amazement thrilled every heart
and It appeared as if no power short of Omnipotence could save
her. There there"! was the suppressed exclamation that escaped
the hps ot all. "She is lost! She is lost'\' But, guided by an eye that
dimmed not, and a liand that never trembled, slie was piloted through
tliose maddened waters by the intrepid Robinson in perfect safety.
The boat lost her funnel, but otherwise, received no injury.
Robinson had performed many hazardous exploits in saving the
hves ot persons who had fallen into Ihe river, yet this last act,
in Laking the "Maid of th- Mist" through the Rapids and Whirl'
pool, IS the chmax of his adventures. It was a wonderful feat of
navigation, and created intense excitement for miles around.
Avery on the Log.
In Julv. 1853. two mnn took a hn^if orul ««* ^..,f *„„ .. _i ^
•ail on the river above the Falls. Nothing was heard of them
witil next morning, when one of them, named Joseph Avery, was
I
- 28
seen clinging to a log sticking on a rock in the n.idst of the
Rapids below Goat Island Bridge, between Bath Island and the
mam-land. Ihousands of people assembled to render the poor
man assistance, and during the day various attempts were made
to rescue hini from his perilous position, but without success. At
ength a boat was lowered down the Rapids towards the log
to which he clung. It reached the spot, but the rope became
.ntangled under the log, rendering it useless. A raft was then
let down, and he succeeded in getting on it; but those ropes also
became entangled, and the raft could not be brought to shore
Another boat was let down to bin, but as it reached the raft it
.truck with such force that Avery, who was standing erect, Veil
off backward, and m another moment he was swept over the Falls
His body was never found. tcraiis.
Francis Abbot.
The Hermit of the Falls.
In the month of June 1829, a tall, gentlemanly, but haggard-
looking young man, made his appearance at Ninl^ra Falls He
brought with Imn a large port-folio, and several boSks and musical
bstruments For a few weeks he paid daily and nightly vS re
the most interesting points of Niagara, and at length became so
fascinated with the beauty of the scene, that he resolved to take
up his abode there altogether! No one knew whence the strange
came Those who conversed with him asserted that he was
tolented, and engaging in his manners and address; but he was
not communicative, and shunned the company of man. At tl '
end of a few weeks he applied for permission to build forMms 'l'
™Ti;Uiis"hf l\^'''''^ Sister Islands ; but circumltaTces
r/n/t ?. nn.1 H i"""^ "^ ^'}' residence in an old cottage on
Goat Island. Here the young hermit spent his days and nights
m solitary contemplation of the great cataract: and when w nter
f.::^^:4^^,:f.^!^-^fl«^^h« f-fJ^nd saw the twinkle of his wood
fhrfrnnhi^^ '""''. ^^"^^""^^y ^o the swcct music that floated over
the troubled waters and mingled with the thunder of the Fall.
— 2y —
idst of tlie
d and the
the poor
i^ere made
ccess. At
Is the log
pe became
was then
ropes also
to shore.
le raft, it
erect, fell
' the Falls.
haggard-
^alls. He
id musical
r visits to
ecame so
1 to take
3 stranger
he was
he was
, At the
)r himsel!
mstances
ottage on
id nights
sn winter
his wood
ated over
the Fall.
This wonderful recluse seemed never to rest. At all hours o(
day and night he might be seen wandering around the object oi
JLis adoration. Not content with gazing at the Rapids, he regular!^
bathed in the turbulent waters; and the bathing place of Francis
Abbot is still pointed out to visitors. One day in June 1831, lu-
went to bathe in the river below the Falls. Not long afterwar<!^
his clothes were found still lying on the bank, \mi Francis Abbot
was gone. The waters which he had so recklessly dared, had
claimed him as their own at last. His body was toimd ten day.^
afterwards, at the mouth of the river, whence it was conveyed to
the burying-ground, near the thundering Falls he loved so well.
Biondin.
It is frequently asked by visitors, where che intrepid Biondin
crossed the river on his rope. In 1859 his rope was stretched
from bank to bank, about a mile below the Falls; the length of
the rope at this place was about 1,200 feet. In 1860 he removed
his rope to a point just below the Railway Suspension Bridge ;
the width here was 900 feet. He crossed the rope many times,
carrying a man on his back, and doing many other daring feats'
His last performance was given before H. R. H. the Prince oi
Wales and Suite, and in the presence of a vast multitude of spectators,
who had been attracted to witness the miraculous performance ol
the wonderful Biondin, many coming over two hundred miles to
enjoy the novel treat afforded them. On this occasion Blr;idin
put the climax on all bis other achievements by crossing the rop.
on stilts. The saying, what man can do, so can another, has beer.
fully illustrated. Since that time, many persons have succeeded
in^crossing the river on a rope and performing similar feats. Ii:
18/6, a lady named Signorina Maria Spelterina stretched her ropt
icioss the river at this point, and astonished the multitude, b^,
tier daring and grace, even rivaling the great Biondin in his mos
womlerCuI feats.
Niagara by riloonlight.
It were vain to attempt a description of this magical scent.
I
jpp
il II
— 30 —
Every one knows the peculiar softness and the sweet influence o*
moonliijht shed over a lovely scene. Let not the traveller fail to
visit Goat Island when the moon shines high and clear, and view
Niagara by her pale, mysterious light.
Niagara in Winter.
In all 11 phases this wondrous cataract is sublime, but in
winter, when its darkgreen waters contrast with the pure white
snow, and its frosty vapour spouts up into the chill atmosphere
from a perfect chaos of ice and foam, there is a perfection of savage
grandeur about it which cannot be reaHzed in the green months
of summer. At this seasor. Ice is the ruling genius of the spot.
The spray which hursts from the thundering cataract encrusts
every object with a coat of purest dazzling white. The trees bend
gracefully under its weight as if in silent homage to the Spirit of
the Falls. Every twig is coveied, eve-y bough is laden; and those
parts ot the rocks and trees on which the delicate frost-work will
not ho, stand out in bold contrast. The trees on Goat Island and
m Prospect park seem partially buried; the bushes around have
almost disappeared ; the buildings seem to sink under their ponderous
coverings of white; every rail is edged with it, every point and
pmacleis capped with it; and the cold, dismal-looking water hurries
Its green flood over the brink, and roars hoarsely as it rushes into
the vortex of dazzling white below. When the sun shines, all
becomes radiant with glittering gems ; and the mind is almost
overwhelmed with the combined effects of excessive brilliancy and
excessive grandeur.
During the winter immense masses of ice descend the river
pass over the Falls, and form an ice bridge below. This ice bridge
generally extends from the Horse-shoe Fall, to about a quarter of
a mile above the Rail-way Suspension Bridge, and is crossed by
hundreds ot foot passengers during the winter. When the river
rises the slender hold that binds it to each shore is broken, and
tiie bridge disappears, sometimes in one night, at other times it
lasts until May.
- 31
influence o*
'eller fail to
r, and view
me, but in
pure white
atmosphere
>n of savage
3en months
3f the spot,
ct encrusts
trees bend
le Spirit of
; and tiiose
t-work will
Island and
'ound have
' ponderous
point and
iter hurries
rushes into
shines, ail
I is almost
liancy and
the river,
ice bridge
quarter ot
crossed by
the river
'oken, and
r times it
The roar of the Falls.
This much depends upon the wind, and th^ state of the
atmospherfc. Sometimes every door and window, the Uast ajar,
for a mile around, will tremble, and the loar may be heaid horn'
fifteen to twenty five miles. At other times it cannot !)e hear<i
half a mile away. In a few instances the roar has been heard at
Toronto, a distance of forty-four miles.
The river above the Falls.
The descent of the Niagara River — which, let it be born«
In mind, flows northward — is only about fifteen feet in the first
fifteen miles trom Lake Erie, and the country around is almost on
a level with the river's banks. At this part the Niagara varies
from one to three miles in Width, has a tranquil current, and is
iake-hke m appearance, being interspersed with low, wooded islands.
At the head of the rapids it assumes a totahy different appearance,*
and descends about sixty feet in a mile, over an uneven bed of
limestone, and, after being divided into two sheets by Goat Island
plunges down about 164 feel perpendicular at the Falls. Above
the rapids islands are numerous. Indeed the river is studded with
them, trom Lake Erie all the way down to the Falls, There are
37 of them, if we may be permit :ed to count those that are little
more than large rocks. Grand liland is the largest, being 12 milei
long and 7 broad. It divides the stream into two branches. Navy
Island IS just below it. Here the French built their ships of war
m 17d9. Thip island was the lebort of the rebel leaders in 1837
It has an area of 304 acres. Our space forbids further notice of
these islands.
The River below the Falls.
Just below the Falls the river narrows abruptly, and flows
rapidly through a deep gorge, varying from 200 to 400 yards wide,
aiid iiom i>00 to 300 feet deep. This gorge, or chasm, extends
from the Falls to Queenstown, a distance of seven miles; in the
32
I
"ourse of which the river descends 100 feet, and then emerges
on the low, level land lying between Qiieenstown and Lake Ontario
— a further distance of seven miles. The descent here is only
about four feet alloj/etlier, and the flow of the river is placid.
The chasm is winding in form, and about the centre of its course,
makes a turn nearly at right angles, forming the well-known
Whirlpool
Geology of Niagara.
The geological features of tlic district around Niagara are
very remarkable, and the Falls afford a fine example of the power
of water to form an excavation of great depth and considerable
length in the solid rock. The country over which the river flows
is a flat table-land, elevated about IKIO feet above Lake Ontario.
Lake Erie, situated in a depression of this platform, is about 36
miles distant from Ontario, lying to the south-west. This table-
land extends towards Qiieenston, where it terminates suddenly in
an abrupt line of cliff, or escarpment, facing towards the north.
Tlie lai\d then continues on a lower level to Lake Ontario
Such are the various appearances and peculiarities presented
by the River and Fals of Niagara, the causes of which we shall
endeavour to explain.
The escarpment at Queenston, and the sides of the great ravine,
have enabled us in the most satisfactory manner to ascertain the
geological formations of the district, and to account for the present
position of the Falls, as well as to form, on good grounds, an
opinion as to the prol>able working of this miuhty cataract in the
future. It has long been supposed that the Fails originally plunged
over the cliff at Queension, and that they have g^radually eaten
their way back, a distance of seven miles, to their pre^ent position.
It is further conjectured that they vvill continue to cut their way
back, in the course of ages, to Lake Erie, anil that an extensive
inundation will be caused by the ^vaters of the lake tljus set free.
Recent investigation has shown, liovvever, that this result is highly
improbable, we may almost say impossible ; that the peculiar quality
and position of the strata over which the river flows are such,
— sa-
ri emerges
le Ontario
e is only
is placid,
its course,
ell-known
agara are
he power
iisiderable
iver flows
i Ontario,
about 36
liis table-
ddenly in
:he north,
■io
presented
we shall
at ravine,
jrtain the
e present
lunds, an
ict in the
y plunged
illy eaten
position.
Iheir way
extensive
set free.
, is highly
a.r nualitv
are such,
that the Falls will be diminished in height as they recede, and
their recession be altogether checked at a certain point.
It has been ascertained beyond all doubt that the Falls do
recede; but the rate of this retrograde movement is very uncer-
tain; and, indeed, we have every reason to believe that the rate
of recession must of necessity in time past have been irregular,
Ihe cause of this irregularity becomes apparent on considering the
formations presented to view at the escarpment and in the chasm.
Here we find that the strata are nearly horizontal, as indeed they
are throughout the whole region, having a very slight dip towards
the south of twenty-five feet in a mile. They all consist of
different membres of the Silurian series, and vary considerably in
thickness and density. In consequence of the slight dip in the
strata above referred to, the different groups of rock crop out
from beneath each other, and thus appear on the surface in
parallel zones or belts; and the Falls, in their retrograde move-
ment, afteT cutting through one of these zones, would meet with
another of a totMiy different character; having cut through which,
a third would succeed, and so on.
In all probability Niagara originally flowed through a shallow
valley similar to the above the Falls, all the way across the
table-land to the Queenston Heights or escarpment. On this point
Mr U l.yell writes: "I obtained geological evidence of the former
existence of an old river-bed, wich, I have no doubt, indicates the
original channel through which the waters once flowed from the
*alls to Queenston, at the height of nearlv 300 feet above the
bottom of the present gorge. The geological monuments alluded
to consist of patches of sand and gravel forty feet thick, containii-g
fluviati le shells of the genera Unio, Gyclas, Melania, &c., such as
now inhabit the waters of the Niagara above the Falls. The identity
of these fossil species with the recent is unquestionable, and these
fiesh'Water deposits occur at the edge of the clitls bounding the
ravine, so that they prove the former extension of an elevated
shallow valley, four miles below the Palls — a distinct prolongation
ot tnai now occupied by the Niagara in the elevated region be'tweeu
Lake Erie and the Falls."
— 34
At the escarpment the cataract thundered over a precipi*A
twice the height of the present one, to the lower level. This
lower level, as shown by Hall s Report on the Geology of New
York, is composed of red shaly sandstone and marl
The formations incumbent upon this, exhibited on the face
of the escarpment, are as follows; 1. Gray quartzose sandstone;
2. Red shaly sandstone, similar to that of the low level, with bin
courses of sandstone near the top; 3. Gray mottled sandstone;
4. A thin bed of green shale; 5. Compact gray limestone; 6. A
thick stratum of soft argillo-calcareous shale, similar to that which
now lies at the base of the Falls; 7. A thick stratum of limestone,
compact and geodiferous, similar to the limestone rock which
forms the upper part of the Falls. This is all that we have presented
to us in the escarpment; but we may observe, parenthetically,
that if we pioceed backwards towards Lake Erie, we cross the
xone of limestone, and at the Falls discover another stratum of
thin-bedded limestone overlapping it, in consequence of the southerly
dip before referred to. Further back still we find the Onondaga
•alt group, which extends, superficially, almost to Lake Erie, where
another limestone formation appears.
Now, had there been no dip in the strata of the tableland
between Lake Erie and Queenston, it is probable that the Falls
would have continued to recede regularly, having always the same
formations to cut through, and the same foundation to fall upon
and excavate. But in consequence of the gentle inclination of the
strata to the south, the surface presented to the action of the
Falls has continually varied, and the process of recession has been
as follows: —
First, the river, rolling over the upper formation of hard
limestone, to the escarpm.-^nt, thundered down a height about
double that of the present Falls, and strucK upon the rd shaly
iandstone of the plain below. This being soft, was rapidly worn
away by the action of the water and spray, while the more compact
locks above, comparatively unaffected, projected over the caldron,
a?i« a^ leng -li lell in masses from time to time as the undermining
process went on. But as the Falls receded, the belt of red sand-
, precipl'A
vel. This
;y of New
the face
andstone ;
with hin
landstone;
)ne; 6. A
hat which
Umeslone,
ck which
presented
thetically,
cross the
tratum of
southerly
Onondaga
'ie, where
tableland
the Falls
the same
fall upon
on of the
m of the
has been
of hard
ht about
rd shaly
dly worn
) compact
I caldron,
lermining
red sand-
— 35 -
tremendous blows. This rock f.^^l , ? '"'^'"P'ent of Niagara's
the reUograde movement wLnron'I'r'^ '.'""'. *'''^«' ^^^'^relore,
here, just'at the poLt where the'^fafkin^t ""^'"I'^fJ"' «8"' »"<«
of quarlzose sandstone the Vhirlnnii .'"''■"'"^'?'' 'his thin stratum
Ti.« . , f "*-^"y> L'le wnirlpool is now sitn»fpH
Ihe next format on on which tho P=ii7„ , j
shaly sandstone, similar to ih. f ^ , '"^f alls operated was the red
the recession. Th"s went < » ' '"l'' ^""^ '°"' accelerated
was cut through and the thLfn"'''!'''"*'^ """' ""* ^'--a'""
•gain an alteration "n speed oclrt?""'"", 7^' '''"'^''^- ««f«
has been cut through is fhefif^hT'f *' '"''°''«' The last that
on which the cataract now falls '' '"""P^'' ^'^^ limestone,
Above t lies the comnaTf^r.^.f"'^ r' ^''°"' ^'^hty feet thick,
upper formatioi at trs^point Th?7„,'™.'^''°"^' ^-^''^ ''"™« 'he
and here we see the nmll;. ^h'^ also is ahout eighty feet thick ;
The lower stratum, beinrsoft is di,?n'i"™H''", P™*'''^^^"'? ™Pidly
of the water and spiay^ided n wTn.5 h '"r ^^. "'" ^'°'^"' action
the incumbent rock beinJ th„« iJ *"' '^"''*' ^"^ P^'on^ of
time to time. The hu^e ,n,!l^! / unsupported, fall down from
in the years 1818 and 18 AT../ 1'^"''"™'"^'' "'"''^"'n* 'hat fell
earthquake. ^^^' ^^'°°^ "^« '=°"""-y. i' is said, like an
FalJ'iirThXl/er'rht'/'!'™^/'^^ ''PP^— of 'he '
says: "Accordin- to^the 1^ geological treatise on this region,
u/.,i \ ■^'-''"/"'ng to the statement of our o-iiidB in i«^i /c ■
Hooker), an indentation of about fortv w Y . ** pamuel
the middle of the ledae of IW- ° ^ f*f,' ''?^ heen produced in
year 1815, so that t has bei ^, n ^' "/! '"f «^ ''all since the
while within 'hel'L' perl'I' 1 Vo~, e fI r^hlst^ "If^"'.!
so as less to rlocg-"? ;*= _^noi!'e sncie*all has been altered
in area in'thllas't fo;r''";a;s-"and f h*^ "^^ lost several acres
waste neither is, nor C bee^^ '/^l .^"''^ °° '^""*" 'hat this
», nor nas heeii, a mere temporary accident, sine*
i
— 36 —
I found that the same recession was in progress in various other
waterfalls which I visited with Mr. Hall in the State of New York "
The rate at which the Falls now recede is a point of disput'e.
Mr. Kakewell calculated that, ii- the forty years preceding 1830
Niagara had been going back at the rate of about a yard annually!
bir Charles Lyell, on the other hand, is of opinion that one fool
per annum is a' much more probable conjecture. As we have
already explained, this rapid rate of recession has, in all likelihood
not been uniform, but that in many parts of its course Niagara
has remained almost stationary for ages.
That the Falls will ever reach Lake Erie, is rendered extremely
mprobable from the following facts: Owing to the formation of
the land, they are gradually losing in height, and therefore in
power, as they retreat. Moreover, we know that, in consequence
of the southerly dip of the strata, they will have cut through the
toed ot soft shale after travelling two miles further back; thus the
massive limestone which is now at the top will then be at the
Jotlom of the precipice, while, at the same time, the Falls will
be only half their present height. This latter hypothesis has been
adTanced by Mr. Hall, who, in his survey, has demonstrated that
there IS a diminution of forty feet in the perpendicular height of
the Falls for every mile that they recede southward: and this
condusioi: :s based upon two facts - namely, that the slope of
the river-channel, m its course north- ward, is fifteen feet in a
mile, and that the dip of the strata in an opposite or southerly
direction is about twenty-five feet in a mile. "
From this it seems probable that, in the course of between
ten and eleven thousand years, the Falls of Niagara, having the
thick and hard liniestone at their base, and having diminished tc
half their present height, will be effectuallv retarded in their retro-
grade progress, if not previously checked by the fall of laree
masses of the rock from the cliff above. Should they still recede
however, beyond this point, in the course of future a{?es thev will'
have to intersect entirely different strata from that over which
they now fall, and will so diminished in ht^ljhi «« ♦« k^ „irv,«.*
lost before reachnig Lake Erie. """"""" ~ "' '^'^ »^"^"=^
ms other
w York."
' dispute,
ing 1830,
annually,
one fool
we have
kelihood,
Niagara
xtremely
lation of
'eiore in
iequeuce
'Ugh the
thus the
e at the
alls will
las been
ted that
sight of
md this
slope of
set in a
Dutherly
between
ing the
ished tc
ir retro-
3f large
recede,
iiey will
r which
almost
~ 37 —
The question as to the origin of the Falls - the manner in
wh ch they commenced, and the geological period at whi rh they
first came into existence - is one of g?eat interest ; but want of
space forbids our discussing that question here. We Ln make
but one or two brief remarks in regard to it.
Sir Charles Lyell is of opinion that originally the whole
country was beneath the surface of the oceanf at a very rrmote
geologica period; that it emerged slowly from the sea and wm
again subrnerged at a comparatively modern period, when shelh
then inhabuing the ocean belonged almost without exception
to species still living m high northern latitudes, and some of them
m temperate latitudes. The next great change was the slow and
gradual re-emergence of this country.
As soon as the table-land between Laken Erie and Ontario
emerged, the river Niagara came into existence; and at the sam«
moment there was a cascade of moderate height at Oueenston
which fell directly into the sea. The cataract tiien clmenced'^^^^
retrograde movement. As tlje land slowly emerged, and the hard
beds were exposed, another Fall would be formed; and then pro-
bably a tnird, when the quartzose sandstone appeared. The re-
cession of the uppermost Fall must have been retarded by the
thick limestone bed through which it had to cut : the second Fall
not being exposed to the same hindrance, overtook it ; and thu.'
the three ultimately came to be joined in one.
The successive ages that must have rolled on durinff fhe
evolution of these events are beyond the power of the human
intellect to appreciate, and belong tu those "deep things" of the
great Creator, whose ways are infinitely above our finite compre-
hension It IS roughly calculated that the Falls must have taken
at least 3o 000 years to cut their way from the escarpment of
Queenston to their present position; yet this period, great though
It IS m comparison with the years to which the annals of the
human race are limited, is a« notliincr v'b^" '"-'- ^ - •" -u
previous ages whose extent is indicated by the geological for-
mations in the region around Niagara.
ir
The first white visitor.
The first white man who saw the Falls, as far as we have
l?t f f I f, ''^'''^ V ""^^ ^'^^^^"^ Hennepin, a Jesuit missionary,
sent out by the French among the Indians, as early as 1678, over
iUO years ago His descriptions were visionary and greatly exag-
gerated. He described the Falls to be six or seven hundred feet
high, and that four persons could walk abreast under the sheet
of water without any other inconvenience than a slight sprinkling
from the spray. We will not attribute this wild and fanciful des-
criptior to a want of candor, or intention to deceive. The fact
prot.ably was he had no means of measuring its height, and un
doubtedly got his account from the Indians, which very likely
would be incorrect. ^ '
A Daring feat.
..„ ^"^^^7A^u '"^^ "^^""^^ ^^^^ "^^^« h^s appearance, and an-
ZT^tt ^^^^ wi.'''"^^ J^P ^''"^ ^^' New Suspension Bridge
into the river. When he told what he intended to do, the people
na ura ly considered him a lunatic, but on the 21 st May he did
^nMv ''' l^\ ^''f f^'^ °^ ^'^ ^^'^I'^"- He had a mechanical
conti vance to keep him from turning in the descent; it is fair to
hr&. i^ ?'^"?^ ^''^^ ^^'' ^^"- H« P"^ a board out from the
bridge and stood looking at the multitude who had been attracted
Hii!^® & '''^^ ^^'^ expectation of seeing him jump and get
kiUed. However he performed this wonderful feat, and received
only a few slight bruises. He stepped off the board: went down
feet foremost 190 feet into the riv^er, striking the ^aTer with a
report like a gun. Time of descent four seconds. He proposed to
repeat this feat on the fourth of July, but the inducements not
being sufficient, and being somewhat afraid, he abondoned the
toolhardy undertaking.
Capt. Webb's Fatal Swim
Capt. Matthew Webb, the famous English cwJTnmer -r^-^f^
the attempt to swim through the Rapids and Whirlpool of Niagara
— 39 —
efforf AlLtr°V\ ^"'y ^*'^' '883, and lost his life in th.
lift fl,» rvf, 1^ P"'''"='y announced he would do, Capt Webb
eft the Gl.fton House on the Canada side, at 4 o'clock New York
time and proceeded down the bank to th- Ferry landing h/™
llsZTe! down' tT'"'°^', "^""^-^ "y '■ ^f'^'y- fe"r"m';n."nd
l^s above the M»id n/ir m" ?Tf' ^^' '"'^ P'«''^"^« G™"«ds,
from thr boat Wn 1"'^*''^' ''''?'l""g. when at 4.25 he jumped
R=^^ 1 • u ° *'^* '''^^'" ^"<i swam leisurely down to th*
Kapids which were to eneulf him At a qq u """" lo ine
t^Talt '^^^^^^^^fyPi^^^s. ■'ItTsfhrrtc 3
^^hiroi^He'?^^ h^^s ^-\o tkt,orthretit°if [£:
SnT. fTv!* ^' r^'' ^PP^^'^^'J °" the top of he water again
ofThe wat ZTm 't^KT ?.^^ ^''^''^ body nTarth'l' top
from thTsurface h ,? »n '°tl *.''t 'P"* ""^^'^ ^e disappeared
WD of the w.t»r' w, t^'^* *^' ''^ "«^f"' ag**'" "ame to the
lop or the water. When he passed under the Susnen^inn RriH^.
atee^he^'ml'taln^S"'^^', T'''^' f hi-self'^ndX^Sracfot't
agiee he main ained until he reached the height of the Ranids
mTls btT:l ""^Pi-^^ Elevators. At tLs point acS
eoulDoisethro,?,^wf fT""t;, ^?'"^ "*^ '^^^^ ^e maintained hi,
ISneared ^ke !M^ •'""*'" '=''^"""'' ^''"^ ""'ers say that he
tt is that ift!r J •".".? T"' "P""'' °f *•"* ^aves. But certain
rLained Vnntrnl^^f i"^ the Bercest of these Rapids he momentarily
rrScf V ,°*-5'"'"'i'' f°' 'he spectators on the Whirlpool
.rounds on both sides of the river saw him as he emerged into
, UT^i"'"-""^ '"" T'""'^ """ '"'«"<">« before the Whirlpoo"
his bodv ahoT; th""" "'^ '"'^''"^ ^"-^ 'i^™^ at least a third o
.nn n? ,^ f '^^ ''".^'■■y "'"'^f^- Then he soemed to swim on
The sn?mf*' [»■• a hundred feet, when he disappeared forever
,e» hf£ ' '''"' 'f^ '""^ disappear waited a few seconds to
fn v»^n --eaPPear on the crest of the current, but they watched
m van. Ihen all rushed to the water's edge in the hone he
might have passed safelv thrnn-l, .b« i^,.," " . , •
i„„ I J ■ , "'■ o" -^^'- picat iiiaeisLiOiii ana nave
landed somewhere on the bank. The banks were thoroughly
searched, hut no trace of him was discovered, and a behef began
40 —
11
'i
.1
to grow that he would never be seen alive. The only hope left
was that he might have passed unseen into the lower rapids and
going through them had left the river at Lewiston or Queenston,
but as the hours passed this hope was dissi|)ated and the fact
was made known that the brave and intrepid Webb had met more
than his match in Niagara's mad waters.
Finding of the Body.
Nothwithstanding the fact that Webb's fatal swim was witnessed
by a large number of people, much doubt was expressed as to
whether he had actually made the attempt, or if he had, that he
might have left the river alive at some point beyond the observation
of the spectators. All uncertainty on these points were however
removed by the finding ot Gapt. Weeb's body about noon on
Saturday, July 28th. 1883, a little more than four days after hia
disappearance.
The body was found by Richard W. Turner, of Youngstown,
about a mile and a half below, Lewiston, floating in Niagara river
about noon on Saturday. He tied the body to the shore and
rowed over to Lewiston for help, and the corpse was finally towed
to a boat house there. All this took considerable time and the
body was not fully identified till about 3 o'clock in the afternoon,
when It was recognized by Felix Nassioy, clerk of the New York
Central House, and Charles Wiedenman, of Suspension Bridge,
who were the last persons to speak to Captain Webb before he
entered the Rapids, hailing him from a small boat in which they
were crossmg the river. The bodies of the two Indians who were
drowned the day before Captain Webb made the attempt, were
also recovered during the day, and this gave rise to some confusion
at first but the investigation which followed removed all doubt.
Capt. Webb's Brief History.
Capt. Matthew Webb was a native of England and 35 yean
?o ^1^; , ^^^ ^*^^®^ ^^^^^ ^" Shropshire England, and there were
lo children m the family, eight being boys. He learned to swim
when eight years old, being encouraged in his ventures by hU
i
'.P'.
)pe left
•ids and
jenston,
he fact
et more
itnessed
d as to
that he
Tvation
Dwever,
oon on
rter his
jstown,
a river,
•re and
r towed
,nd the
jrnoon,
V York
Bridge,
ore he
h they
were
, were
1 fusion
doubt.
> yean
J were
I swim
by hit
- 41 —
Krcerbetrk'^ ^ Tec^' '^^^ ^7^ '^ ^-' -'^ <^--g
several of which were perform pTI"^ l"' ^''' swimming feats'
while in South Africa^et^nnf ff f^^^^.^^^an life, hi 1872,
and in the year followinrrpiif f ^ ^^'"'"^^ ^' ^ P"^^^^ swimmer
passengers ofTe stt "'rus^^^^^^^^^ '^r ^^^
society of London for savin/the h?e of f ! m ^'T ^^'' ^""'^"^
overboard. The achievempnt iLl ^u'^'^'^' '^^° ^^^ washed
was swimming thrESrLnfpi ^T.*''^. inlernational fame
kind, on whicl occas^'n t wast iTe ttT'f^^^'r ^^' '' ^"^
a. m. the next day When iTp xvil I \ ^''^"' 1 P- m. to 11
the close of this exnloit he w.« 'f^.'^ ^''^ ^^ ^^^« ^^^ter at
Prince of Wales On nno^ • P'f ^"^^^ with $ 25,000 bv the
Manhattan Beach durinA sto?mThi;'.'^'^ '^T ^^"^^ ^^^^^ ^o
In July, 1882, he t^^wlt^T^:^^^^^^^
championship and at different timp. hL p i ^^^ American
in the watery of which oi^Lr^v ^^%P^^f«^»^^d wonderful feats
has made hi^ home in RnVnn J'^' ?'•"'" "^^^^^- Recently he
hirth and bit aTeVyears re^^^^ i"' '''''^ ^^ «^ English
mourn the lo^s of his nntLfit ^ n m '^'"''^' ^^^ ^^^ children
and courage worse aoDlH t^nl^ death. Never were physical prowess
which, evf:7fTuSH ^^^^^^^ fellow's last adv'enture,
to the world. °^ ^^ pratical service
The Hotels.
The chief of them are International Hotel CHlarant H™,„
Spencer House, Prospect House «nrt Hnf^TV!^?,!.'';''"':""'!?^
American side, and on the Canada side ■ciiftonHlu^e: "" '"'
t'i- " Vxy^'''^-
' w ^S!te#isit<!3#-ra
42 —
I
The International.
This magnificent hotel, a view of wiiich is given in the Guide,
is, of all the hotels, the nearest to the great Falls. Its rooms and
piazzas command a suburb view of the Falls, Rapids, Islands and
River. Its lovely lawn-one of the finest in America-opens directly
on the State Park. Its terms are for rooms and board per person
per day $ 4.— for first floor, $ 3.50 for second floor and $ ^.—
for third floor, greatly reduced rates for families remaining a week
or more. Hotel is open from June to October.
Cataract House.
This splendid hotel is situated on Main Street, and is too well
known to need much comment. It has accommodations for about
500 guests and has all the modern improvements. Messrs. Whitney,
Jerauld & Co., are veteran hotel keepers and known how to anticipate
the repuirements of their guests.
The 'Spencer.
This hotel the traveller will find one of the most elegant and
home like at the Falls. — It is directly opposite the New York
Central Depot aud is open the year round. It is kept on American
plan from May to November of each year and European plan
from November to May. — Terms on American Plan $ 3.— per
day per person and upward according to location of room. —
On European plan $ 1.— |per day) per person for rooms, meals
to order.
Hotel Kaltenhach.
This fine, new hotel is nicely situated on Ruffalo street, facing
the rapids; and has already a wide reputation in the hands of
Mr. Kaltenhach, whose natural qualifications, to'^ether with years
of experience, make him one of the best landl ds in the village.
This hotel is a great favorite with the German tourist, and is also
open the year round.
Clifton House, '
on th?CanaT°i,!M'-^K','' ^."^'•'^t'^d near the banks oftherivw
Falls it has accommn,l-n'f"''', '°™i"""'^ '■" ""« ^'«^^ "f"" tli-
ana thorough ,ood M:;!:,'L^nt™°Sel^S"Srinr
Prospect House
Carriages and Hackmen.
of .i?T'^f!^''^ not scarce, or difficult to find: thev can bp h^A
The ralVn'f't^' public hack-stands, and aln'jst at^veV tmn
Niagara Reservation Carriage service Co. limited.
intere'f''on'Vi»', Pt'^^'l^'P "?'' enjoyable trip to all Points of
ihoe falls .nSxL ""•''•. ^"'."^ '''''"'^' ^^' °f 'he winds, Horse
snoe rails and Ihree sisters Is ands Round Tn'r^ t.^i / ^'-"^s^
r^e Hackmen.
^ These innocent, and much abused individuals ifp nnfpri fnr '
mmmmm
--•*!. ^i& ana nouuraD e m their doahnu- fn T^-,^o^ i
con,p,aints o.f extortion have IJT'ZL ^.ZT i^^^Tk^^H
— 44 —
the fault has been with the person making the complaint. In
many cases, they expe to deduct from the cariage fare, the
amount paid for admission fees at the various points. Visitors
should make a barj^ain with the hackmen before entering the
vehicle — m accordance with his rates of fare — and request no
gratuitous "extras*' at his hands, and there will be no cause for
complaint.
i
Distances.
From Principal Hotels,
Around Goat Island ....
» Prospect Park ....
To New Suspension Bridf?e .
» Railway Suspension Bridge
» Whirlpool Rapids ....
» Whirlpool
» Devil's Hole .....
» Top of Mountain . . . !
» Indian Village (Council House)
3> Table Rock, via New Suspension Bridge, or
* * » » Railway Suspension Bridge
> Lundy's Lane Battle Ground .
» Brocks's Monument, Queenstown Heights
Ferry
IM miles
2
3
8
7
>
>
*
»
»
»
»
Admission Fees and Toils.
To Goat Island
» Prospect Parks ....
» Cave of Winds (with guide and dress)
» Inclined Railway (Prospect Park) .
> Ferry to Canada and return .
Free
»
one dollar
10 cents
50 »
— 45 —
shoe Fall with guide
and dress *
miles
»
>
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
»
50 cents
50 *
50 »
50 »
25
»
To Behind Horse
Canada side
» Museum American side .
> Lundy's Lane Battle-ground .
J Whirlpool Bapids (either side)
>^ New Suspension Bridge, each way
* '\, * '- extra for two horse carriage 50
» Hallway Suspension Bridge, over and return . 25
* * ^ * . '> extra for two horse carriage 50 »
» Cyclorama Battle of Gettysburg . . . . 35 .
The number of victims whose carelessness or folly has sent
over the Falls is quite formidable, and doubtless quite independent
of the Indian tradition that the cataract demands a yearly sacrifice
of two victims, since no such tradition can be authenticated. We
give below a record of some of the recent and most memorable.
Accidents, Suicides and narrow Ecapes.
Sept., 1S59, two men were observed clinging to the bottom
of a boat^ about a mile above the Falls, they went down on the
outside of the Third bister Island, and thence over the cataract.
Une the unfortunate men was named Johnson, who had some
years before been rescued from a perilous position in the Rapids.
Dj Joel R. Robinson. ^ *
Sept 1859, a man calling himself Shields, proposed to iumii
from a platform, 90 feet into the river. Before making the leap
he went into the river to ascertain the depth, stren-th of the
current etc., and was never seen after!
May 18G4, Mrs. Bender committed suicide on the Canada
Side of the Falls, where she resided. She walked into the rapids
just above the Horse, shoe Fall, and was instantly swept over-
her body war never found. She had b(>en insane for many years!
Oct., 1865, a young man named William Duncan undertook
to row across the river to Chippewa but w iit over the Falls.
— 46 —
Parts of his body were found a few days after near the Ferry
below the Falls.
Sep., 1866, two men, named Daniel Goffa and Henry Husted,
started to row from Chippewa to the American side, they got into
the Rapids and went over the Falls Bodies not found.
Sep., 1869, a gentleman calling himself Carl Schurz, went to
the Horse shoe Fall, (Canada side) walked into the Rapids, and
was instantly swept over. His body was found a few days after
at the Ferry.
While this body was anchored at the Jerry, (Canada side)
another terrible accident happened. A party from Providence, R. I.,
consisting of Mr. Tillinghast and wife , Mrs Fisher, Miss Smith
and Miss Balou were in a carriage going down the hill leading to
the ferry landing, intending to cross in the ferry boat to tht
American side when part of the harness gave way which caused
the horses to jump and throw the carriage down the precipice,
Mr. Tillinghast and the driver sprang from the carriage in tim«
to save themselves, but the ladies were carried over, and fell a
distance of forty or fifty feet. Miss Smith was found to have been
killed instantly by a blow on the head. Mrs. Tillinghast waj
bruised about the head and otherwise injured. Mrs Fisher had
one wrist fractured and suffered contusions in various parts of the
body. Miss Ballou was taken up for dead, but finally recovered
consciousness she had three ribs broken, three breaks and one
compound fracture of the right arm, cut and bruised about the
head, and spine injured. She is still living but is a sufferer from
the effects of the fall Dec, 1869, Mr. James Pierce, an old resident
to Niagara-Falls, comniitted suicide by jumping off the Railway
Suspension Bridge. His body was never found.
Nov., 1870, Mrs. Margaret Avery , a resident of Chicago,
committed suicide by jumping off Goat Island Bridge into the
Rapids, and was almost immediately whirled over the American
Fall. It was afterwards ascertained that the unfortunate lady was
insane. Body not found.
May, 1871, Three young men whose names were not known,
attempted to cross the river above the Falls; not being familiar
1
47 —
with the currents, they were soon drawn in the rapids, and over
the Horse shoe Fall. None of the bodies recovered.
July, 1872, Two men, names unknown, in crossing above the
Falls, were drawn into the current and went over.
July, 1863, a young man accompanied by a young lady and
boy hired a boat and started for a sail ; they were soon in the
rapids and over the cataract. The remains of the young lady
were found two days afterward, at Youngstown. There was a
''.omantic as well as a tragic feature in the above. It appeared that
^he young man and young lady had run away for the purpose of
gelting married ; the latter insisting, as a matter o^ prudence, that
her brother should be of the party. The marr* ,ge was to have
taken place on the day of the catastrophe. Tue father and the
mother of the girl, who had come in pursuit of the runaway,
arrived but a short time after !
Sept., 1874, a stranger reached the Falls on the Canada side,
was driven to Table Rock, and after viewing the Falls for a time,
he asked the carriage driver if he thought "it would kill a man
to go over". The driver assured him it would be certain death.
Requesting him to mail a letter for him, and without saying any-
thing more, walked into the water, and in a moment was carried
)ver the Falls. His body was never found, nor did his name after-
wards become known.
August, 1875. A sad fate befell two estimable young people,
lesidents of the village of the Falls. Miss Lottie Phiipott, with
two brothers, a sister-in-law, and Mr. Ethelbert Parsons, went
through the Gave of the Winds, and c'.mbed over the rocks to-
wards the American Fall, to bathe in the lighter currents that
sweep between and over the massive rocks below. With a rash,
venturesome spirit. Miss Phiipott chose one of the most dangerous
currents in which to bathe ; she soon lost her footing and fell,
Mr. Parsons grasped for her, but failing to catch her, he sprang
into the current and both were carried down the stream. Despera-
tely nic jjFive nian laboreci. to save ner, j^ut Oi no avaii, lOr liIS
current carried them further from the shore. The horror-stricken
— 48 -
witnesses, unable to render any assistance saw, them sink below
the surface. Where they disappeared a cloud of mist hid the scene
of disaster for a moment, and when their friends next looked tor
their loved ones the angry waters gave no sign of the tragedy
just enacted. Both bodies were subsequenlty recoYered at the
Whirlpool.
July, 1877. A fatal casualty occurred on the river above the
Falls by which two men lost their lives and a third narrowly
escaped meeting the same fate. Charles A. Pierce, Wallace Behnger,
and William Flay, all residents of Niagara Falls were saihng on
the river, when their boat capsized ; they all succeeded in getting
hold of the boat and attempted to get it right side up, but after
taking several futile endeavors, and becoming exhausted by
fepeated immersions, they gave up the attempt. Pierce and Bel-
linger then tried to swim for the shore, but having on their
clothes they did not go far before they went down to their death.
Flay managed to get upon the keel of the boat, from which ne
was washed several times, but managed to get back again each
time in safety. He was resc'^.ed from this awful position m an
exhausted state, by three young men named Walker. The body of
Bellinger was found on Grass Iisland ; the body of Pierce went
over the Fall and was afterward recovered in the Whirlpool.
April, 1878. Two young men, Brothers and resi dents of
Chippewa' while crossing the river above the Falls to their home,
got into the rapids and were carried over the Falls. The bodies
were after wards recovered.
May, 1879. A well known citizen of Niagara Falls, namec*
Pipus Walker, rowed out into the river, and was soon i-i the
rapids and over the American Fall. He was a good bout-man and
well acquainted with the river in every re -pect, and had he been
sober at the time, H is likely this notice would not have been
here. His body was recovered.
June, 1879. A lady and gentleman, named Roland, from
n i_-j -s-u^ ,«£v"" '^^ " tri»^ oTrrmnd tViP wr\r](\. visited Niacrara
Falls, and went over on the Three Sister Islands. Mr. Roland
m
— 49 —
came back alone, naturally very much excited, stating that his
wife while stooping to get a drink of water, accidently fell into
the rapids and had gone over the Hoise-shoe Fall. Suspicions oV
foul-play were entertained, but there being no proof, Mr. Roland
was allowed to go on his way. Before leaving he left a sum of
money to defray t!.e funeral expenses in case the body should be
found. A few days afterwards the body was recovered near the
Falls, and conveyed thence to the burying-ground.
Sep., 1880. A gentleman from Utica, named Knapp, commit-
ted suicide under the following circumstance. He arrived at the
Falls in the evening, and went to the telegraph office and en-
quired for a dispatch, there not being one for him, he seemed
very much disappointed; he then walked down to the Rapids at
the end of Tugby Mammoth Bazaar, where he stepped upon a
bench, shot himself in the head, and fell head-long into the rapids;
in a few seconds he was over the American Fall. Before com-
mitting this rash deed, he took off his coat and vest and laid them
on the walk, and attached a paper stating where they were to be
sent. He also left his watch and chain, a small amount of money,
gold sleeve buttons, knife, and several other articles. His body
was recovered soon after in the Whirlpool.
Inside of five years, several men have committed suicide, by
jumping from the New Suspension Bridge.
Jan., 1883. Thomas Hilson of Philadelphia committed suicide
by jumping into the rapids from Luna Island »Before the war he
carried on a prosperous wool trade, and afterwards formed a
partnership with Geo. W. Bond & Co., of Boston, the firm's
name in Philadelphia being Thomas Hilson & Go. About ten
years ago the firm became involved in financial difficulty, brought
on, so Hilson claimed, by speculative ventures of some of the
junior partners. Hilson gathered together all the money he could
get hold of, amounting to $ 40,000 or $ 50,000, and decamped.
The senior rppnibp^' nf ilm firm. Mr. Bond hrmnpnerl tn Kp in
Europe at the time, and on the arrival of the steamship had Hilson
arrested. Mr. Bond succeeded in getting / 28,000 from the fugi-
— 50 —
live. This money was paid to the firm's creditors, and the affair
was thus settled. In 1876 Gref/g Brothers, who had business
transactions with Hilson, after his return fiom Europe cluirged
him with the embezzlement of $ 6,000, and he was arrested while
on a visit to Philadelphia during the centennial. He was sub-
sequently tried, but the jury disagreed and the matter was com-
promised. Hilson's friends are satisfied that he killed himself be-
cause he had deliberately come to the conclusion that he could
no longer hve in the extravagant manner in which he delighted,
and, rather than be compelled to exist without »high living,€ he
prefernjd to end his life.
>April 9ti» 1884. Two well known citizens of Suspension
Bridge, Thomas Vedder and Van R. Pearson, started out for a
ride, they not returning in proper season, a search was instituted.
About two o'clock the next morning, the horse and carriage was
found on Goat-Island, near the stairs leading to Luna-Island anil
shortly after the dead body of Pearson was found on Luna-Island,
with two bullet holes in his head. Near by lay a portion of the
clothing belonging to Thomas Vedder, but no traces could be
found of Mr. Vedder. On Thursday June 5tii while the bridges
were being put in the Cave of the Winds, some of the workmen
found the body of Mr. Vedder. There as still some mystery about
the sad affair. What passed bet,veen the two men as they stood
together on Luna-Island that cold evening, will never be revealed
until the end of time, when all things are made known. ^
The preceding is but a partial lest of the known victims. The
number of those who have taken the fatal plunge at night, un-
seen, can never be ascertained.
Many state that while looking into the chasm, an almost
irresistible impulse besets them to leap into the fearful flood.
We cannot explain this, and why such a feeling should possess
the mind is bejond our comprehension, though certain it is that
such a feeling does exist in the minds of many.
The following narrow escapes miy now be mentioned. In
1839, a man named Ghapin, who was engaged in repairing Goat
Island Bridge, fell into the Rapids, fortunately the current carried
him to the first of two small Islets below. He was rescued from
his perilous position by J. H. Robinson, who had more than once
bravely rescued fellow-creatures from this dangerous river; and the
island was named after him — Ghapin Island.
In 1852, a gentleman from Troy, N. Y., while passing over
Terrapin Tower Bridge, fell into thp river, and was instantly
— 61 -
carried to the verge of the precipice and lodged between two
rocks. Mr. Isaac Davy assisted by a visitor, rescued hirn, by
throwing lines to him: he had just sufficient strength eft to fasten
them around his body ; then Ihey drew liim to the bridge m an
exhausted condition. ^p *u« i?oiia
In 1874, Mr. Wm. Mc Gollough, on old resident of the balla,
while engaged in painting Ihe bridge leading to the second Sister
rsiand, accidently Fell into the Rapids. When about a quarter of
the way down to the spot where be would take the fatal plunge,
the current threw the nearly insensible man over a low ledge
into a small eddy, where he managed to get upon a projecting
rock. He was recued -by Gonroy, the well known guide, who
succeeded in getting to him with a Hne, by the aid of wh,ch,
both were landed in safety. ., , , tu n«««^«
In 1875, an unknown man fell over the bank, on the Canada
side a few rods below the New Suspension Bridge. Those by
whom the accident was witnessed, repaired to the spot where he
fell, expecting to find his mangled remains. Their surprise was
great when they found him unhurt with the exception of a tew
slight bruises ! This seemed almost incredible, when he had fallen
eighty feet perpendicular, and then rolled down the bank sixty
feet further. It is, perhaps worthy of remark, that he was intoxi-
cated when he fell over, but sober after.
Legend of the white Canoe.
In days of old, long before the deep solitudes of the West were
disturbed by white men, it was the custom of the Indian warriors
of the forest to assemble at the Great Gataract and offer a human
sacrifice to the Spirit of the Falls. The offering consisted of a
white canoe full of ripe fruits and blooming flowers ; which was
paddled over the terrible cliff by the f.drest girl of the tribe who
had just arrived at the age of womanhood. It was counted an
honour by the tribe to whose lot it fell to make the costly sacri-
fice : and even the doomed maiden deemed it a high comphmenl
to be selected to guide the white canoe over the Falls. But m the
stoical heart of the red man there are tender feelings which
cannot be subdued, and cords which snap if strained too roughly.
The only daughter of a chief of the Seneca ndians was
chosen as a sacrmciai uhenng tu luc ^px.iv ^i .,,^^_— -.
mother had been slain by a hostile tribe. Her father was the
bravest among the warriors, and his stern brow seldom relaxed save
to his blooming child, who was now Ihe only joy o which he clung on
wrth When the lot feU on his fair child, no symptom of feehngcros.eo
— M —
his countenance. In the pride of Indian endurance he crushed
down the feelings that tore his bosom, and no tear trembled in
his dark eye as the preparations for the sacrifice went forward.
At length the day arrived ; it faded into night as the savage
festivities and rejoicing proceeded; then the moon arose and
silvered tho cloud of mist that rose from out the turmoil of
Niagara ; and now the white canoe, laden with its precious freight,
glided from the bank and swept out into the dread rapid from
which escape is hopeless. The young girl calmly steered her tiny
bark towards the centre of the stream, while frantic yells and
shout arose from the forest. Suddenly another white canoe shot
forth upon the stream, and, under the powerful impulse of the
Seneca chief, flew like an arrow to destruction. It overtook the
first ; the eyes of father and child met in one last gaze of love,
and then they plunged together over the thundering cataract
into eternity 1
New Maid of the Mist
A new steamer called "Maid of the Mist", has been built below
the Falls to take the place of her famous predecessor of the same
name. I would advise all visitors to take a trip on this boat
before leaving Niagara.
Fare, for the round trip, 50 cents.
Father Hennepin's Description
of the Falls, published in 1678.
Betwixt the Lake Ontario and Erie, there is a vast and pro-
digious Cadence of Water, which falls down after a surprizing and
astonishing manner, insomuch that the Universe does not afford
its Parallel. <Tis true, Italy and Siiedeland boast of some such
Things ; but we may well say they are but sorry patterns, when
compar'd to this of which we now speak. At the foot of this
horrible Precipice, we meet with the River Niagara, vfhich is not
above a quarter of a League broad, but is wonderfully deep in
some places. It is so rapid above this Descent, that it violently
hurries down the wild Beasts while endeavoring to pass it to teed
on the other side, they not being able to withstand the force of
its Current, wliich enevitably casts them headlong above bix
hundred foot high. , „ .
This wonderful Downfall is compounded of two cross-streams
of Water, and two Falls, with an isle sloping along the middle
of it The Waters which fall from this horrible Precipice, do
foam* and boyl after the most hideous manner imaginable, making
an^utrageous Noise, more terrible than that of Thunder; for
when the Wind blows out of the South, their dismal roaring may
be heard more than Fifteen Leagues off.
' The River Niagara having thrown it self down this incredible
Precipice, continues its impetuous course for two Leagues together,
to the great Rock above-mention'd, with an inexpressible rapidity:
But having passed that, its impetuosity relents, gliding along more
gently for other two Leagues, till it arrives at the Lake Ontario
or Frvnte^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ the Fort to the
foot of this huge Rock above mention'd. This Rock lies to the
Westward, and is cut off from the Land by the R^vev Nagara
about two Leagues further down than the great Fall, for which
two LeTgues the People are oblig'd to transport their goods over-
irnd; burthe way is very good; and the Trees are very few,
^'^trom'thTgreTF^ unto this Rock, which is to the West of
the River the two brinks of it are so prodigious liigh, that it
would make one tremble to look steadily XVe\\T)o7^^
along with a rapidity not to be imagm d. Were it not to t is
va^t Cataract, which interrupts Navigation, they might sa 1 with
Barks or greater Vessels, more than Four hundred and fifty
I plfues crossing the Lake of Hurons, and reaching even to the
Sr ^ndTnhe Lake Illinois, which two Lakes we may easil,
say are little Seas of frer>h Water.*
1 54 -
-f->;(*.fcl^v*.*~*'
fluiil
The village of Niagara Falls.
The village of Niagara Falls taiies its name from the Great
Cataract, is situated on the Niagara River, about 22 miles from
Buffalo, and is accessible by rail from all parts of the United
States and Canada. The population is about 3,900. During the
war of 1812, this locality was the scene of many startling events,
which have passed into history. The climate is in the highest
degree healthy and invigorating. The atmosphere being continually
acted upon by the rushing waters, is kept pure, refreshing, and
salutary, and is blessed with that which companies can neither
purchas nor monopolize — cool breezes from the river.
Besides being a fashionable place of resort, it must eventually
become a large manufacturing town. The vast water-power, (pro-
bably the best in the world) is ^ust beginning to attract the at-
tention of capitalists. Mills are already built, others are in the course
of construction, and capitalists are now negotiating far other sites.
There is established an International Park at this place, ac-
cording to the plan suggested by Lord Dufferin. The necessity of
action became more urgent every year with the growth of the
surrounding country and development of manufacturing enterprises.
The object of this scheme was not to drive away manufacturers,
but simply to exlude them from the immediate proximity of the
cataract, while giving every opportunity for industrial expansion
by the use of the unrivalled waterpower at a point further down
the river. This has done away with the high and numerous tolls,
preserved the natural beauty of the Falls, and cnjated a reser-
vation of which both countries are equally proud.
The name "Niagara" is a corruption of the Indian word
„Onyakara" supposed to be of the Iroquois language. The meaning
of the term is "mighty, wonderful, thundering water.
The state of New- York has purchased Goat Island group*
Prospect Park, and a strip of land along the river front about
?ji of a mile long and about 200 feet v/ide, and made the Islands
and Prospect Park free to the world.
— 55 —
Descriptive Pieces.
To Niagara
written at the first sights of its Falls.
Hail 1 Sovereign of the world of Floods ! whose majesty and might
First dazzles, then enraptures, then o'erawes the aching sight :
The pomp of Kings and Emperors, in every clime and zone,
Grows dim heneath the splendor of thy glorious watery throne.
No fleets can stop thy progress, no armies bid thee stay,
But onward — onward — onward —thy march still holds its way:
The rising mists rhat veil thee as thy heralds go before,
And the music that proclaims thee is the thund'ring cat'ract's roar !
Thy diadem's an emerald, of the clearest, purest hue.
Set round with waves of snow white foam, anu spray of feathery dew,
While tresses of the brightest pearls float o'er thine ample sheet.
And the rainbow lays its gorgeous gems in tribute at thy feet.
Thy reign is from the ancient days, the sceptre from on high,
Thy birth was when the distant stars first lit the glorius sky ;
The sun, the moon, and all the orbs that shine upon thee now.
Beheld the wreath of glory which first bound thine infant brow.
And from that hour to this, in which I gaze upon thy stream,
From age to age — in winter's frost or summer's sultry beam —
By day, by night, without a pause, thy waves with loud acclaim.
In ceaseless sounds have still proclaimed the great Eternal's name.
For whether, on thy forest-banks, the Indian of the wood,
Or, since his day, the red man's foe on his fatherland has stood;
Whoe'er has seen thine incense rise, or heard thy torrents roar,
Must have knelt before the God of all to worship and adore.
_ B6 —
Accent then, Supremely Great! Infinite! Godl
!i,fS'cr7a'W«fe \Wtw'ViiS .reat arl Thou,
R„. thoueh Thy power is far more vast than finite mind can scan,
th^ «fs fl^^^J^Z^ Jitf he hnnd-Xana seed ,
Around, on high, or far °^ "f "' ^^r^.Td'L^rtl'roll ,
Proclaims Thy glory, ''%";n1 voice the hyinn ascends above
And from Creation's grateml ;°'^« ^^jf/^'J^ug _ "God is love!"
While lieavuii re-echoes back to tarin me ciioiua
**""* J. S. BTICKINGHAU.
The Falls of Niagara.
The thoughts are strange that crowed mto my bram
While I look upward to thee. It would seem
Is f God poured thee from His "hollow hand ,
And hung His bow upon thine awful front
i:id Se in that lou\voi- t><rl---t*- h™
Who dwelt in Palmos for his Sav'oui s sake,
.'The sound of many waters;" and had bade
Thv flood to chronicle the ages back,
ind noteh the centuries in the eternal rock..
Deep callelh unto deep. And what are we
That hear the question of that vo.ce subhme?
Ill what are a'u the notes ^hal ever rung
From War's vain trumpet, by thy thundering siae
— 57
ay.
id
ed;
eed.
ve!"
Yea what is all the riot that man makes
In his sliort life, to thy unceasing roar^
And vet, bold babl)ler, what art thou to Him
Who drowned a world, and heaped the waters far
Above its loftiest mountains? - a light wave
That breaks and whispers of its Maker's might !
BRAINARD.
Niagara.
Flow on for ever, in thy glorious robe
Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on,
Unfathomed and resistless. God hath set
H s rainbow on thy forehead and the cloud
Sanlled around thy feet. And He doth give
ThY voice of thunder power to speak of Him
Eternally - bidding the lip of man
Keep silence, and upon thine altar pour
Incense of awe-struck praise^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^.^
The insect trump that tells her trifling joys
Or fleeting triumphs mid the Pe^l subhme
Of thv trem ndous hymn. Proud Ocean shrinKs
Back from^liy brotherhood, and all his waves
R^^'re aTashei For he hath need to sleep
qnmfilimes like a spent labourer, calling home
mrboUteros billows, from their vexing play.
To a long dreary calm : but thy strong tide
faints not, nor e'er with falling hearts forgets
It<! everlasting lesson, night nor day.
The morning'stars, that hailed CreaUon s b.r h
Heard thy hoarse anthem mixing wilh their song
Jehovah's\ame , and the di.solv.ng fires
That wait the mandate of the day of doom
To wrick theEarth. shall find it deep mscnbed
Upon thy rocky scroll.
I
— 58 —
Lo! yon birds,
How bold, they venture near, dipping their wing
hi all thy mist and foam. Perchance 'tis meet
For them to touch thy garment's hem, or stir
Thy d'alnd wreath, who sport upon the cloud
Unblamed, or warble at the gate of heaven
Without reproof. But as for us, it seems
Scarce lawful with our erring lips to talk
Familiarly of thee. Methinks, to trace ^
Thiue awful features with our pencil s pomt
Were but to press on Sinai.
Alone of God, who poured thee as a drop
From His right hand - bidding the soul that looks
' Upon thy fearful majesty be still,
Be humbly wrapped in its own nothingness,
And lose itself in Him. ^^^^ siGOURNET.
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