IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

'^x.

.<■

.^ %

Q-

C?.,

,^/

1.0

I.I

Ilia iiM

IIM |||m

" III 2.0

1.8

1.25

1.4

1.6

II 11111= II

^ 6"

►

■7^

CA,

'el

.'*'■

Photographic

Sciences
Corpordtion

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716) 872-4503

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques

1980

Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques

The Institute has attempted to obtain the best
original copy available for filming. Features of this
copy which may be bibliograohically unique,
which may alter any of the images in the
reproduction, or which may significantly change
the usual method of filming, are checked below.

L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire
qu'il lui a 6t6 possible de se procurer. Les details
de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du
point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier
une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une
modification dans la m^thode normale de filmage
sont indiqu^s ci-dessous.

I "3 Coloured covers/

I V I Couverture de couleur

D
D
D
D
D
D

Covers damaged/
Couverture endornmagde

Covers restored and/or laminated/
Couverture restaur6e et/ou pellicul^e

Cover title missing/

Le titre de couverture manque

Coloured maps/

Cartes g^ographiques en couleur

Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/
Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire)

Coloured plates and/or illustrations/
Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur

Bound with other material/
Re\\6 avec d'aiitrus documents

Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion
along interior margin/

La reliure serr^e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la
distortion le long de la marge int^rieure

Blank leaves added during restoration may
appear within the text. Whenever possible, these
have been omitted from filming/
II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout^es
lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte,
mais, lorsque cela dtait possible, ces pages n'ont
pas 6t6 film^es.

□ Coloured pages/
Pages de couleur

□ Pages damaged/
Pages endommagdes

□ Pages restored and/or laminated/
Pages restaur6es et/ou pellicul^es

Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/
Pages d^color^es, tachet6es ou piqu^es

I I Pages detached/

Pages ddtach^es

Showthrough/
Transparence

Quality of prir

Quality indgale de I'impression

I I Showthrough/

I I Quality of print varies/

□ Includes siipplementary material/
Comprend du materiel supplementaire

□ Only edition available/
Seule Edition disponible

Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata
slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to
ensure the best possible image/
Les pages totalement ou partiellement
obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure,
etc., ont 6t6 film^es d nouveau de fapon d
obtenir la meilleure image possible.

Additional comments:/
Commantaires suppl6mentaires;

10X

This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/

Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiqud ci-dessous.

14X 18X 22X

26X

30X

I2X

16X

20X

24X

28X

32X

The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks
to the generosity of:

Nova Scotia Public Archives

L'exemplaire filrn^ fut reproduit grace d la
g6n6rosit6 de:

Nova Scotia Public Archives

The images appearing here are the best quality
possible considering the condition and legibility
of the original copy and in keeping with the
filming contract specifications.

Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le
plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et
de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire film6, et en
conformit6 avec les conditions du contrat de
filmage.

Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed
beginning with the front cover and ending on
the last page with a printed or illustrated impres-
sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All
other original copies are filmed beginning on the
first page with a printed or illustrated impres-
sion, and ending on the last page with a printed
or illustrated impression.

Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en
papier est imprim6e sont film6s en commenpant
par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la
desrni^re page qui comporte une empreinte
d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second
plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires
originaux sont film6s en commencant par la
premiere page qui comporte une empreinte
d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par
la derni^re page qui comporte une telle
empreinte.

The last recorded frame on each microfiche
shall contain the symbol —♦►(meaning "COIM-
TINUED "), or the symbol V (meaning "END "),
whichever applies.

Un des symboles suivants ppparaitra sur la
derni^re image de chaque microfiche, selon le
cas: le symbole — ♦- signifie "A SUIVRE", le
symbole V signifie "FIN".

Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at
different reduction ratios. Those too large to be
entirely included in one exposure are filmed
beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to
right and top to bottom, as many frames as
required. The following diagrams illustrate the
method:

Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent etre
film6s d des taux de reduction diff6rents.
Lorsque le document est trop grand pour etre
reproduit en un seul clich6, il est film6 d partir
de I'angle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite,
et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre
d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants
illustrent la m6thode.

I";

III

.a/'

■yj^OJa. s.

3sro. a.

— y^^-t^^^v^c^

THE

NEW DOMINION

MONTHLY.

Tk/L^y, X068.

C'-^

^i '"

/."-^ i

M N T R E A L :

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY JOHN DOUOA^X, S^

SON

128 (JBEAT ST. JAM JS8 »TR££T.

PltI€K, TEST CENTS.

.'\

0. W. WILLIAMS & CO.,

Tt^

Eiimrmi^sssss m

SEWING-MACHINES.

Partios In want of Mowlni^-Miichines will ploaso tako notioo that we build machines for cvc' y
range of work— from the finest Family to the coarsest Manufacturing.

We warrant all Machines nincle by us to be equal In every res'iicct to thoi-e of any other
maker in America, while our prices are from

iili

20 to 30 per cent. less.

There is I'l a 'nwn or village in this Dominion that a goodly number of our Sowing-machines
cannot be so i i;i ; mil the terms we ofl'er to Agents will pay them better than any other business
tliey can enj. i.;e in if there is no Agent in your town or village for our machines, sonil for our
terms and sci :;•<) a Ajrcncy. Manj* parties in quite moderate circumsiances have been able to
sell a large nvim bet (• Machines, without interfering with their otlier business. Those wlio do
not feel quite i'i> •' • > 1 1 rchase a 'gootl Machine are often able, by a little exertion, to sell enoujjh
to socuro one U>r tl rutelves without cost.

Send for ( .rculars, and Photographs of our Machines,

MOAiTREAL

-J

NOTES OP A RAMBLE THROUGH CAPE HRETON.

••)

ES.

les for cvo' y
■^f any other

i-^-macirnies
lier business
send for our
been able to
hose who do
) sell enoiiijh

mes.

Boon as death's semblance makes weary man's

eyes,
Sad, sweetly sad, thy notes swelling arise.

Wliy dost tliou fly the first streaks of the day ?
Why does the coming light chase thee away?
Hast thou In daytime, from sorrowing, peace ?
Do thy sad thoughts with the bright sunshine
cease ?

Now breaks <hy song from the verdure-clad

hill ;
Now it keeps time with the murmuring rill.
Sweet singing spirit, why restless alway ?
Come to my window and rest thee for aye.

Breathe to me there all the source of thy woe,
There let thy grief in rich melodies flow,
There tell thy son'ows in secret to me—
Why at my words thus afar dost thou flee 7

Farewell then, Whippoorwin, now thou art fled,
True, thou art spirit of one that is dead ;
Keep thy sad secret locked fast in thy breast ;
Now the sun rises, and now thou hast rest.

07-iginal.

NOTES OF A RAMBLE THROUGH

CAPE BRETON.

• BY J. G. BOURINOT, NOVA SCOTIA.

In the month of August last, tired of the
tlust and noise of the city, the writer de-
cided to spend a few weeks in visiting a
portion of the New Dominion but little
known outside of the Maritime Provinces.
Let the reader open up a map of British
North America, and direct his eye to tlie
north-east of Nova Scotia, and he will see
a large island of exceedingly irregular
I form, separated from the main-land by a
narrow gut, connecting the Atlantic OceiMi
with the Gulf of St. Lawrence. This is the
Island of Cape Breton, known in the days
when the French were the rulers of Canada
by the name of Isle-Royale. Having visited
the island in former years, I had been ex-
ceedingly struck by the richness of its re-
Boureea, and the variety of its exquisite
scenery. Nowhere, I knew, could the
tourist find more invigorating breezes, better
sea-bathing, more admirable facilities
for fishing an sport of every kind, than in

Cape Breton, j So, in that island I deter-
mined to spend the few holidays I could
snatch from tlie treadmill of journalism.

On a fine summer evening I found myself
on board one of the Cuuard steamers at
Halifax ; and, in the course of twenty-four
hours after steaming out of the harbor, wo
arrived at tlio port of North Sydney, where
the principal coal mines of Cape Breton are
situated. For tlie space of a month I
rambled through the island. I visited
many of the villages, and partook of the
kind hospitality of its people. I ventured
into the depths of its wilderness ; saw many
relics of the days of the French dominion;
fished in its streams ; and passed many de-
lightful hr '/s on the waters of its great
lake. Now, on this bleak January even-
ing, with the wind whistling shrilly around
the house, and tossing the snow-flakes
against the windows, I recall those pleasant
summer days, and re-produce from my note-
book many of the facts that I gathered m
the course of my rambles.

Sydney harbor is jusUy considered one
of the finest ports in America, though it is
unfortunately ice-bound during the winter
months, from the first of January to the
first of April. The mi»es of the Mining
Association of London are at the entrance
of the harbor, and are connected by rail
with the place of shipment, which is gene-
rally known by the name of the "Bar."
This place does not present a very attrac-
tive appearance to the visitor, the houses
being ungainly wooden structures, disfigured
by huge, glaring signs. Six miles further
up the river is the capital of the island, the
old town of Sydney, which is built on a
peninsula. As the stranger comes within
sight of the town, ho does not see many evi-
dences of progress or prosperity. Tho
houses on the street fronting the harbor are,
for the most part, very dilapidated and
sadly in want of paint and whitewash.
The town, however, is very prettily situated,
and possesses many pleasing features. In
former times. Cape Breton was a separate
province, and Sydney had a resident go-
vernor and all ibi paraphernalia of seats

THE NEW DOMINION MONTHLY.

of government. A company of regular |
troops was also stationed there for many
years ; but, now-a-days, the old barracks
and a tall flag-staff, on which the Union-
Jack is never hoisted, are the only evi-
dences that remain of those gay days when
Ilcr Majesty's forces enlivened the mono-
tony of the old town.

Sydney certainly is not a prosperous town.
The fihipping mo.stly congregates at the
" Bar," where the coal isshipped. Tlie uew
collieries, opened up during the past six
years, are situated a considerable distance
irom Sydney, and have drawn away a good
deal of trade which had previously centred
in the town. An effort is now being made
to build a railway to connect some of these
new mines with the harbor ; and when that
is accomplished — as it must be, sooner or
later — we may date the commencement of
a new era in the commercial history of the
old capital. At present, the charm of Syd-
ney is its pleasant society. In no place of
similar size in British America, will you
find gentlemen possessed of more general
information, or ladies of better tone and
manners. In fact, there still cling to Syd-
ney the attributes of an old government and
military town. Sydney has, at present, the
honor of being constantly visited by the
ships of the French navy, and less fre-
quently by English men-of-war. At the
time of my visit, the " Jean Bart," a train-
ing ship for cadets, and the " Semiramis,"
bearing the flag of Admiral Baron Megnet,
commanding the French fleet in American
waters, were anchored off the residence of
the French consul, v.'ho is also one of the
senators of the Domini«n. Some years ago,
the late Judge Halliburton, better known
by the sobriquet of "Sam Slick," endea-
vored to create a little sensation in England
by an article, in which he declared that the
French were, contrary to treaty, forming
strong fortifications at St. Pierre de Mique-
lon, off the coast of Newfourndland ; and he
also mentioned the frequent visits of the
French ships to Sydney as an ominous fact.
But the old Judge was only indulging in
chimeras, for there are no fortifications

whatever at St. Pierre ; nor are the good
people of Sydney fearful that their loyalty
is in peril because the tricolor waves so
often, during tlie summer months, in their
noble harbor, from IJis Imperial Majesty's
ships. On the contrary, they would feel
doejily disappointed if these ships were now
to cease their periodical visits;, which tend
so much to enliven the town, and are so
very profitable to the farmers of the sur-
rounding country.

Of course, Louisbourg will be one of the
first places visited by the tourist in Cape
Breton. The old capital is about twenty-
five miles from Sydney, and is quickly
reached, for the roads in Cape Breton, as a
rule, are excellent. Never have I visited
a place that more strikingly realizes the
idea of perfect desolation than Louisbourg.
The old town was built on a tongue of iJhd
neai the entrance of the harbor; and, from
the formidable character of its fortifications,
was justly considered the Dunkirk of Ame-
rica. The fortifications alone cost the
French Government the sum of thirty mil-
lions of livres. The houses are mostly of
wood, though the official residences were
built of stone imported from France. The
position of Louisbourg, and its many ad-
vantages as a harbor, naturally attracted
the attention of the French in those days,
when they entertained such ambitious de-
signs with reference to this continent. As
an emporium for vessels sailing between
France and Canada, and for the large fleet
annually engaged in the Newfoundland
fisheries, the town was always considered
of great importance by French statesmen.

Louisbourg was first taken by Warren
andPepperel; the latter, a merchant of New
England, ho was the first colonist that
ever received the honor of a baronetcy.
At the time of its capture by the colonial
forces in 1745, tlie walls were forty feet in
thickness, and of considerable height ; they
were mounted with a hundred and twenty
cannon, seventy -six swivels, and some mor-
tars. The harbor was defended by an island-
battery of 32 guns, which were then con-
sidered of large calibre, and by a battery

tho good

ir loyalty

waves so

s, in their

Majesty's

vould feel

were now

.-hich tend

nd are so

f tho sur-

one of the
t in Cape
it twenty-
s quickly
leton, as a
I visited
alizes the
ouisbourg.
uo of lilhd
and, from
ifications,
c of Ame-
cost the
hirty mil-
mostly of
aces were
ace. The
many ad-
attracted
lose days,
)itiou3 de-
aent. As
: between
large fleet
foundland
!onsidered
itesmen.
' Warren
ntofNew
>nist that
•aronetcy.
e colonial
ty feet in
jht; they
id twenty
ome mor-
an island-
;hen eon-
a battery

NOTES OF A BAMBLE THROUGH CAPE BRETON.

•on shore, which mounted 30 largo guns, and
was surrounded by a formidable moat. The
success of tho colonial troops naturally at-
tracted a great deal of attention throughout
England. The victory, too, came at a very
opportune time for tlie mother country. At
the time tho colonists were gaining laurels
at Louishourg, the British troops were bo-
iug beaten on tho eontinent of Europe.
" Wo are making a bonfire for Cape Breton,
and thundering for Genoa," wrote Hora«e
Walpolo ta one of his friends, " while our
army is running away in Flanders."

By the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, Cape
Breton fell once more into the hands of the
French, who immediately renewed the for-
tifications of Louishourg. At the time the
negotiations for this treaty were going on,
the French court instructed its envoy to
take every care that Cape Breton was re-
stored to France, so important was its posi-
tion in connection with the trade of Canada
and Louisiana. Peace between France and
England was not of long duration in
those times, and among the great events of
the war that ensued was tho capture of
Louisbourg by Wolfe and Bo.scawen. Great
were the rejoicings when the news of the
fall of the " American Dunkirk " reached
Englaad. The captured standards were
borne in triumph through the streets of Lon-
don, and deposited in St. Paul's amidst the
roar of cannon and the beating of kettle-
drums. From that day to this, Cape Breton
has been entirely forgotten by the British
Government. Fifty years after the fall of
Louisbourg, Lord Bathurst ordered all Ame-
rican prisoners to be removed from Halifax
to Louisbourg, as a place of safety.

After the fall of Louisbourg, its fortifica-
tions were razed to the ground ; and a good
deal of the stone, as well as all the imple-
ments of iron, were carried to Halifax. As
the visitor now passes over the site, he can
form a very accurate idea — especially if he
has a map with him — of the character of
the fortifications, and tho large space occu-
pied by the town. The form of the batte-
ries is easily traced, although covered with
sod, and a number of the bomb-proof case-

mates, or places of retreat for the women
and children in the case of siege, arc still
standing. Many rolics, in the shape of
shells and cannon-lialls, are to bo picked up
amid the ruins. A person who dwells near
tho old town told mo that lie had recently
dug up an old cellar full of balls.

The country surrounding the harbor is
exceedingly barren and uninteresting, and
the houses, which aro scattered about at
distant intervals, are of a poor description ;
whilst tho small farms in the vicinity do
not appear to be at all productive. Alight-
house stands on one of the points at the en-
trance of the harbor, w}uch is always open
in winter, and easily accessible at all times
from the ocean. It is eertainly strange
that Louisbourg, notwithstanding its great
advantages as a port, should have remained
so entirely desolate since it fell into British
hands. Whilst other places, without its
great natural facilities for trade, and espe-
cially for carrying on the fisheries, have
grown up, the world has passed by Louis-
bourg, and left it in a state of almost per-
fect solitude. A few hovels now occuiiy
the site of the old town ; a solitary " coast-
er," wind-bound, or a little fishing-shallop,
is now only to be seen on the waters of the
harbor where once vessels of every class
rode at anchor. Nothing breaks the silence
that prevails, except the roar of the surf on
the rocks, or the cry of the sea-gull.

Wherever you go in Cape Breton, you
coma upon traces of the French. Many of
the old names are, however, becoming
rapidly corrupted as time passes, and their
origin is forgotten. One would hardly re-
cognize in " Big Loran " the title of tho
haughty house of Loraine. The river Mar-
garie, remarkable for its scenery and the
finest salmon-fishing in the Maritime Pro-
vinces, is properly the Marguerite. Inga-
nish was formerly Niganiche. The beauti-
ful Bras d'Or, of which I shall speak pre-
sently, is still correctly spelled, and so is
the Boularderie Island at the entrance of
the lake, which is thus named after the
marquis to whom it formerly belonged.
Port Toulouse — where a canal to connect

THE NEW DOMINION MONTHLY.

the ocean with the lake is now in coumo
ofconstTuotion — is now known as St. rotor's.
Tho present nanio of the iblaud iH an ori-
(lence of the French oicupation. yome of
those advonlnrouH mariners who have been
visiling the waters of the Gulf lor centu-
ries, firet gave the name of Cape Breton to
tho north-eastern point of the ishmd. It is
believed by some w»iters that the Bretons
and Basques were the tirst disooverersof the
Continent of America. Certainly, it is well
known thai, -a 1504, the fisheries on the
banks of Newfoundland were prosecuted.
In 1517, fifty Castiliau, French and Portu-
gese vessels were engaged on the banks at
the same time.

Many interesting relics arc now and then
turned up by the plough in the old settle-
mentR. I remember seeing, some years ago,
a fine bell which was discovered at Nigani-
ehe, and which bore, in accordance with
tho custom in France, the following in-
scription :
" Pour la Parolssede Niganicho jay et6 nommed

janne Fracoiso Par Johannis Decaretteet

par Frangolsse Vrail Parain et Maraine— la fosse

Hvet de St. Malo ma fait An. 1729."

With these few referenoes to the past his-
tory of the island, I will now proceed to
note a few of its present characteristics.

Among the features of interest are the
collieries, of which there are a large num-
ber in Cape Breton. Uii to 1854, the coal
mines of the Province were under the sole
eontrol of the Mining Association of London,
but during that year an arrangement was
made between the Nova Seotians and the As-
sociation, by which the coal mines, with
the exception of certain acres reserved to
the latter, were thrown open to capital and
enterprise. The result of this arrangement
has been most beneficial to the whole Pro-
vince, and especially to Cape Breton. There
are now at least sixteen mines in operation,
and others on the point of being opened, in
the island. At Glace iJay and Cow Bay
tho raines are most vigorously worked, and
a large number of buildings have been
erected. The residences of the managers
are very fine and commodious edifices. Ar-
tificial harbors have been constructed at an

enormous cost by enterprising companies,
and now shipping of every clasii can anchor
wlicre, only tho other day as it were, a ves-
Hel of any size was never seen. Tho total
quantity of coal raised in Nova Ciootia, in

1865, was 657,256 tons, nearly two-thirds
of which came from the Cape Breton mines.
During the past two years, tho mines were
not so actively worked, and tho quantity
of coal raised was somewhat less. Up to

1866, operations were carried on with great
vigor, and there was every prospect of a
new era in tlic commercial history of the
island ; but the repeal of the Keciprocity
Treaty produced a very injurious ofl'ect on
tho trade. The principal mines are carried
on with American oa])ilal, and all of them
find their chief market in the United States.
It is to be hoped that the people of Quebec
and Ontario will bo induced to become
large consumers of the coal of Cape Breton,
which cannot now find a remunerative sale
in the American market. If the coal trade
was vigorously carried on, the prevalent
dullness would soon disappear.

To the lover of nature, tho island afl'ords
a large fund of amusement. For variety
of beautiful scenery, the Bras d'Or cannot
be surpassed in British America. You will
see all the attractive features of the Hudson
and St. Lawrence Rivers as you pass over
the magnificent lake which, from its great
size, is deserving of being called a sea.
The air was hushed and still as I took my
seat, on a summer morning, in the little-
steamer that plies weekly between Sydney
and "Whycocomagh, at the head of the lake.
The sun was just scattering the morning
mist and revealing the fine farms that sur-
round the harbor. The water was undis-
turbed except by the ripple from the paddles
of the boat. In an hour's time we had left
the harbor and passed into the Little Bras
d'Or, one of two arms that lead into the
lake. This arm is very narrow in many
places, and resembles a beautiful river. It
is full of the most delightful surprises, for
yon would think yourself perfectly land-
locked, when suddenly you would see a little
opening, and find yourself, in less than a

NOTES OF A RAMBLE TIIROUOH CAPE BRETON.

ft companioH,
Hi can anchor
L were, a ves-
1. Tho total
)va e!ootia, in
ly two-thirds
3rtton mines.

mines were
.ho fiuantitv
less. Up to
)n with great
irospeet of a
istory of the

Keciprocity
ous ofl'ect on
IS are carried
I all of them
fuited States,
e of Quebec

to become
Dape Breton,
iierative sal*
lie coal trade
le prevalent

^land affords
For variety
d'Or cannot
:. You will
the Hudson
)u pass over
im its great
illed a sea.
IS I took my
a the little-
een Sydney
of the lake,
le morning
BS that sur-
was undis-
the paddles
we had left
Little Bras
d into the
w in many
il river. It
irprises, for
3ctly land-
l see a little
less than a

minntc, shooting into a largo bay. The
banks wore wooded to tho very water's
edge; whilst shady roads wound down, in
most perplexing fashion, to some rude wharf,
whore was moored a lishcrman's boat or
coasting schooner. Fine farms were to be
seen on all sides, and, now and then, we
caught a glimpse of a tall white spire. By
and by, wo passed within a stone's-throw
of a lofty islet, wooded so deeply that the
branches kissed tho very water. Anon, we
shot out into the Great Bras d'Or itself,
where the waves were much higher ; in
fact, at times they were apt to become a
little too boisterous for comfort. Far to the
northward we could catch glimpses of tho
highlands, which terminate in tho pro-
monitories of Cape North and Cape St.
Lawrence. We soon came to Bedeqne, or
Baddeck, as it is now commonly spelt, the
principal village on the lake, which is only
a collection of a few houses, set down with-
out reference to order. We spend two hours
more on tho lake, and then come to Whyeo-
comagh, a little Scotch settlement, situated
on a prettily sequestered bay. Here the
tourist can lind an hour's amu.scmont in
visiting a cave of marble, comprising seve-
ral chambers, in which a man can stand
erect. The marble is said to be of good
quality, though it has not yet been worked.
Whilst at Whycocomagh, I found the peo-
ple considerably interested by tho news
that a New York Profes.sor was visiting the
quarry with a view of testing its quality.
Chance threw the gentlemen subsequently
into my path, and the " Professor " turned
out an illiterate marble-cutter, who had
found his way, somehow or other, to this
remote section of the Provinces. I do not
think, however, from what I have heard,
that he had " hoodwinked " the people of
the settlement, who, if not very highly edu-
cated, have a pretty accurate idea of the
qualifications of a real Professor. The
Yankee element, I may here add, is becom-
ing very prevalent in Cape Breton, as well
as in Nova Scotia, generally. Not only
many of the coal and gold mines, but the
principal stage-routes and the telegraph

lines, are in the liands of the Americans ;
and it would be well for tho interests of
Cape Breton if more of their energy ami
enterprise could be infused into its people.
From Whycocomagh you have a drive to
the sea coast of about thirty miles, over
one of the most picturesque roatls in Nova
Scotia. The tonrist will, in all probability,
have to be satisfied with a vehicle entirely
destitute of springs and cushions, but he
will not mind a little discomfort in view of
the exquisite scenery that meets the eye
wherever it wanders. Those who have
travelled over Scotland cannot fail to notice
the striking resemblance that the scenery
of thia part of Cape Breton bears to that
of the Highlands. Indeed, the country is
Scotch in more respects than one ; tho in-
habitants are all Scots, and, as a rule, aro
a well-to-do class. Some of the best farms
in the Province are here to be seen, proving
conclusively the fine agricultural capabili-
ties of the island. As the carriage passed
along the mountain side, wo overlooked a
beautiful valley, where one of the branches
of the Mabou river pursues its devious way,
looking like a silvery thread thrown upon
a carpet of the deepest green. Every now
and then we pass groups of beautiful elms,
rising amid the wide expanse of meadows.
No portion of the landscape was tame or
monotonous, but all remarkably diversified.
The eye lingered on exquisite sylvan
nooks, or lost itself amid the hills that rose
in the distance. The air was perfectly re-
dolent with the fragrance from the newly-
cut clover, and the wild flowers that grew
so luxuriantly by the way-side. Everything,
that summer evening, wore the aspect of
Sabbath stillness, the rumble of the waggon
wheels and the tinkle of the cow-bells from
the meadows below were the only sounds
that broke upon the ear.

At Port Hood, on the Gulf shore — an in-
significant village, though the shiretown of
Inverness county — we took passage on board
a fine steamer that plies between Pictou
and Charlottetown, and early next morning
we found ourselves in the prosperous town
of Pictou, whence the railway carried us to

THE NEW DOMINION MONTHLY.

' 111

Halifax. So much for tho most delightful
trip that I have ever taken anywhere in
America. If any of ray readers wish to
make themselves acquainted with one of
finest sections of tho Maritime Provinces,
and to enjoy an exceedingly cheap and plea-
sant trip, let them .visit Cape Breton next
summer, and go through tho Bras D'or,
and the valley of the Mabou, as I did.

My note-book is full of many references
to tho scenery of Cape Breton, but my pen
cannot do justice to it, and I must pass on
to other matters connected with the island.
No one can travel for any length of time
through tho island without seeing the evi-
dences that it is far behind all other parts
of British America in tho elements of pro-
gress. As a rule, tho people are poor and
n/ionterprising. The great majority of the
people are Scotch, many of whom exhibit tho
thrift and industry of thoir raoo. The de-
scendants of tho old French population are
an active, industrious class, chiefly en-
gaged in maritime pursuits. A portion of
the inhabitants is composed of the families
of American loyalists, and the original
English settlers. Agriculture is largely
follbwed by the people, and with success in
the interior, especially in tho vicinity of the
great lake. On the sea coast the fisheries
predominate, though the people more or
less cultivate small farmg.' The collieries
absorb a considerable numiber of men, but
^only in particular parts. A good many
persons are also engaged in the coasting
trade, especially at Arichat, in the county
of Richmond (Cape Breton is divided into
four counties. Cape Breton, Richmond,
Victoria, and Inverness) which, in 1866,
owned 300 vessels, comprising 21,049 tons,
and valued at $675,164. The number of
the present population of the island is about
76,000 souls. The Catholics and Presbyte-
rians predominate.

There are about five hundred Indians in
the island, all belonging to the Micmac
tribe. As is the case in other parts of
America, they are slowly dwindling away.
The majority of the tribe live in a very-
picturesque section of Cape Breton, in the

vicinity of the Bras D'or Lake, where they
have some fine farms, and worship in a
large chapel. Once every year, in the
summer, they assemble at Escasoni, and
have grand services. For months before,
they save all tho money tlioy can collect
from the sale of baskets, tubs, and fancy
work, in order to display a little finery for
this grand event of the year.

No part of British America is richer in
natural resources, and all those elements
necessary to create wealth and prosperity ;
but unfortunately for Cape Breton, its pro-
gress has been retarded by the want of capi-
tal. Tho tide of immigration to America
has passed by its shores, and very little
capital has ooroo in to develope its capabi-
lities. The new collieries are carried on
for tho most part, by Now York and Boston
capital, and no English money is invested
in any of tho mines, except those worked
by the London Mining Abjociation, whoso
estaoiishment dates a great many y,.trs
back.

Cape Breton is on the very threshold of the
finest fishing ground in the world. Its coal
fields are the most extensive and important
in British North America. Quarries of
marble, gypsum, limestone, and other
valuable stones abound, and gold has also
been found in several places. The natural
position of the island is remarkably advan-
tageous for trade of every kind. It stands
like a sentinel at the very gateway of the
Gulf of St Lawrence, which it must com-
mand most effectually in the time of war.
Its coast is indented by a large number of
noble harbors, one of wliich, Louis-
bourg, is open at all seasons, and is situated
on the very pathway of European traflRc.
No one can doubt that at no very distant
date, when capital and enterprise come in
and develope its resources, it must occupy
a prominent position in the Dominion of
Canada.

[We heartily thank Mx. Bourinot for the
foregoing admirable sketch of an exceed-
ingly interesting though comparatively lit-
tle known portion of the Dominion. — Eds.
N. D. M.l

>W I H f*J<?*»t jt.v:^-^-x.-~