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•■* iv

-'W

■ ' A

-■r>

-tj

k 'i

I 1

A GLIMPSE

JLT THE

UNITED STATES

AND THE

NOETHEEN STATES OE AMEEICA,

WITH

THE CANADAS,

COMPEISING THEIK RIYEES, LAKES, AND FALLS

DURING THE AUTUMN OF 1852;

INCLUDING SOME ACCOUNT OF AN EMIGRANT SHIP.

BY EDMUND PATTEN, ESQ.

SKETCHED AND ZINCOGRAPHED BY THE AUTHOR.

I i I

LONDON: -

EFFINaHAM WILSON, PUBLISHER,
11, ROYAL EXCHANGE.

1853.

■!V*''-» "/' , ' ■ •

■ijj'*

PEEFACE.

*' 'Tis pleasant, sure, to see one's name in print :
" A Look'a a book, altho' there's nothing iu't."

Byeon.

The Eeader will not, I trust, conclude from
mj Imving adoptt d tlie above motto, that I
am either so weak as to have no object in
offering this little volume to the world, be-
yond the gratification of my own vanity,
or altogether so dishonest as to seek the
patronage of the public to a work, which,
with knowledge afore-thought, I am sen-
sible has "nothing in it" that can arrest the
attention or engage the understanding. My
design, on the contrary, is to show that I
am not ignorant of the risk which writers
unknown to fame always incur, of having
the double charge of vanity and inefficiency
brought against them by a criticising
public. "''''"' ''"-''"' ^ "' ' "-''"'" ^ ^'

In penising the incidents related, and the
scenes described, as they came under obser-
vation during my visit to the New World, it
will not be difficult for the discerning critic
to recognise less of the character of the

A 2

' i I

. »*• 'VV^AJ^ffW

rUEPACE.

bookmakci and more of the clmllition of
tlie painter — the entliiisiastic admirer of all
that is glorious in the works of nature — than
he has been accustomed to meet with in
books of this description. My desire is to
give a " plain unvarnished tale," speaking
at aU times with honest truth, so that, when
the winter shall succeed to the summer and
autumn of life, —

" When my bumish'd locks are groy,
Thinned by many a toil-spent day,"

the re-perusal of these pages may be accom-
plished with the same honest satisfaction,
the same purity of feeling, as originally sug-
gested their publication ; and, when it is
admitted that the following ''glimpse,'^ with
the illustrations, were primarily intended for
the eye of friendship, only, it may not be
considered too much, in bespeaking for them
the favour of the general reader, to express
a hope th-at the critic may be induced to
spare his lash. ! ■;■'

EDMUND PATTEN.

London, January, 1853.

^;Mii ^^)

"?.r

A GLIMPSE

AT TUB

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, &c.

. ^/,j \/\/\/\y^V/ */\/ V/>J V' M^ "rf W

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Portsmouth hj the American Liner, Prince
Albert. — Emigrants on Board. — OJf Panics of New-
foundland after contrary Winds. — Pleasures and Dis-
comforts on Board S/iij). — Contemplations at Sea. —
Doings on Board an Emigrant Ship amongst the
Passengers, and Description of them. — Character of
the Ship and her Crew. — French and German Be-
volutionarg Passengers on Board. — Rules, Megula-
tions, and Funds for Emigrants. — Contrary Winds
and Prolonged Voyage. — Oulf Stream and Ice-
hergs. — Dangers of Collision. — Provisions becoming
scarce. — Quarrels amongst the Germans. — Sketches. —
Music. — No Tobacco nor Snuff' left. — Thieves in the
Ship. — Two Births — the Mitte turned Doctor. — Ap-
proaching Land. — The Pilot. — Tug Boat engaged. —
Description of Entrance into New York. — Pier-
Banding on Terra Firma. — Emigrant Ships, beware
of them. — Character of the Captain and Steward.

On Tuesday, the 22nd June, 1852, that well-
known personage " Boots," of the Quebec Hotel,
Portsmoutli, gave a loud rap at door No. 5, to
announce to me tlie arrival at Spithead of the
American Liner, "Prince Albert," 1500 tons
register. ' ^•'^^-'-"-■'^^^-- - '' " '"'"-'■-:■'-;■■- '•-''- ^ ; " •

^' One of these noble ships leaves the port of
London weekly ; they are fitted up to carry
several hundred emigrants, who are glad to leave
Europe,in the hope of improving their condition

. .i

A GLIMl'sE AT THE

ill the New World, wliicli offers a fiiir prospect
to clever mechniiics, ngriculturists and others able
to work, who have seldom had cause to repent
bidding farewell to " Fatherland," especially those
having large families to settle in life. By these
means, advantages, recii)rocal to both countries,
are obtained, inasmuch as the present over-popu-
lated state of J'^urope reduces the price of laboiu:
below a just renuinerative scale ; emigration to a
si)lendid new country like America, with its great
variety of climate, magnificent rivers, lakes and
canals, gradually mitigates the evils at home,
whilst it supplies the wants of a country which,
under whatever form of government, may be
fairly designated the " land of promise."

On the "Prince Albert" I found a motley group,
indeed ! — what Cobbett, the hnmortal, would call
the " great unwashed ;" from the forecastle to the
poop great was the variety of the human form
divine, in number upwards of three hundred and
fifty ; all of us well prepared to entrust om* fates
to the mighty deep, and to cross the once di'caded
waste of waters, the Atlantic, that mighty waste,
which only three hundred years since was con-
sidered beyond the pale of humanity, when the
great Columbus, like the magician of old, showed
to wondering Em'ope a new world, hi extent al-
most too mai-vellous to contemplate !

Westerly wmds generally prevail hi the At-

UNITED STATES OP AMERICA, ETC.

lantic (Inring tlircc-foiirtha of the year, and it was
not until the middle of July that wo found our-
selves on the banks of Newfoundland, enveloj)ed
in fog and mist, the thermometer standing at
50°, whieh made us glad to take to our great
coats, and we are informed that some four weeks
may still elapse ere we can expect to reacli our
destination. ,

The pleasures or discomforts of a sea voyage
vary much, according to the weather, the sort of
society on hoard, and the character of the ship
and her officers ; still, if there be nothing to com-
plain of on these essential points, the monotony
and ennui that frequently overcome a landsman,
WQ, perse, sufficiently distressing. However, there
is much to compensate for all this : for example,
when sailing with a favourable wind and genial
weather, to be on deck watching each object around
you, the noble ship ploughing its way, gracefully
as the swan, with wings expanded, like, indeed,
"a thing of life;" then, again, on a clear moonlight
night, dashing through the sparkling brine, vomit-
ing forth phosphoric brilliants, when

" The silver moon unclouded
Holds her way through skies
,, ;,- Where, methinks, I could count

Each little star."

iP;\-ti^^A

What feeling can be more benign than the con-
templation of innumerable stars and planets ; the

'!l

.. U

A OIJMHSK AT TIIK

gorgeous tints from the rising or setting sun,
when there in nothing to divert the mind from
the enjoyment?

Then is the huge mnehine on which we arc
standing, thrown into one great mass of shadow,
rushing along, obeying man, as if by instinct,
crossing unfathomable depths, fonning, as it were,
a connecting li!\k between distant hemispheres,
bringing man into conmmnion with his fellow
man, in whatever extremity of the earth he may
be located ; equally the Esquimaux of the colder
regions, with the sun-burnt sons of the Pacific
Ocean : how glorious is the reflection when so
vividly brought before us !

Then, again, whilst gazing on the vast expanse
now before )ou, (land not seen for many weeks),
how pleasing to have your attention drawn to
what the experienced mariner well knows to be
the land, but which your unpractised eye, even
with the aid of the telescope, can discover to be
nothing more than an undefined speck in the
horizon. Then —

" How yoti strain the tired eyeball, that fain would
explore, = i

To catch but a glimpse of the far distant shore." .

Soon the appearance of the pilot confirms the
prediction of the mariner; the vessel is guided
into port : you hear the loud rattle of the cable,
the snlash of the anchor, and your voyage is

UNn n STATES OP AMK.mCA, V.TV.

n(^coin|)lish(>(l ! Tlicsc; rcfloctioiis arc most plcas-
'wVjT and t'xliiliiratiiip; to the senses, and, in con-
neetion witli them, 1 eannot resist transcribing the
following passage from the pen of a great writer

now no more

(< rrv

The vessel itself is a noble spectacle. Sen-
sible to the r,liglitest movement of the lielm, like
a hippogriff or winged courser, it obeys tlu; hand
of the pilot us a horse (he hand of its rider. The
elegance of the masts and the cordage ; the agility
of the sailors, ^vho leap nimbly up the rigging;
the different aspects in which the vessel presents
itself, whether beating up against a contrary wind
or flying straight before a favoiu-ing breeze, ren-
der this wonderful machine one of the marvels of
human genius. Sometimes the foaming billow
dashes from her side; sometimes the peaceful
wave divides, without resistance, before her prow.
The flags, the pendants, and the sails complete
the beauty of this palace of Neptune. The lower
sails, unfurled to their full extent, vvell out hke
vast cylinders. The topsails, reefed in their
centre, resemble the bosom of a syren. Urged
on by an impetuous l)r(\ze, the ship, with its
keel, as with a ploughshare, tills, with a roaring
sound, the ocean plains.

"On the ocean path, along which is seen neither
trees, nor viUages, nor towns, nor towers, nor
steeples, nor tombs along this highway, without

A-A

A GLIMPSE AT THE

columns, without milestones; which is bounded
only by the waves, whose relays are the whids,
whose torches are the stars — the most exciting
adventm'e, when a traveller is not in quest of un-
known lands and seas, is the meeting of two ves-
sels. They perceive each other on the horizon,
with a telescope, and shape their course so as to
meet. The sailors and passengers hurry upon
deck. The two vessels a])proach each other,
hoist their flag, half furl then" sails, and back
them to the mast. When all is silence, the two
captains, placed upon the poop, hail each other
with a speaking trumpet. ' What ship ?

* From what port ? ' ' The captain's name ? '

* Bound from what place ? ' ' How many days
are you out ? ' ' The latitude and longitude ? '

* Good bye ! ' The reefs arc shaken out, the
sails fall ; the sailors and passengers of the two
vessels gaze at each other's retreating forms in
silence. The one is about to seek the sun of
Asia ; the other the sun of Europe, which will
see them both sink to their long rest. Time
hurries on, and separates the travellers on the
land, more promptly even than the wind sweeps
them on, and sepa^'ates them on the ocean. A
distant signal is made ; ' Good bye ! ' is shouted
— ^the common haven is eternity.

" The sailor knows not where death will sur-
prise him — on what shore he shall leave his

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

bones. Perhaps, when he mingles liis last sigh
with the breeze of ocean, it will be when launched
on the bosom of the deep, STipported on two
oars in order thus to continue his voyage. Per-
haps he will be interred on some desert island,
which will never again be revisited, as he has
slept in his lonely hammock in the midst of the
ocean." ^' .'': ' ry-^ '■ ■ ' ' .• ^'■•?^'^;■ -.■-,, - ; ■;.

The internal economy of an emigrant i:hip may
not be altogether void of interest to those " who
live at home at ease ; " what, therefore, came
under my immediate observation, during a pe-
riod of nearly seven weeks I shall briefly describe ;
being my first voyage, it had novelty in it, but
a reciu'rence of such a position will never, I hope,
be my dcvstiny. The public have too often had
the melancholy picture of the misery on board
emigrant ships laid before them ; of shipwreck, of
death, and other dismal scenes ; on this occasion,
however, I have, happily, no such sad tales to relate;
my narrative may, probably, border more on the
sportive than the melancholy. We had Germans;
red-hot French republicans; some Dutch and
Swiss; many Irish, with a few English and
Scotch. The ship's crew was composed of Eng-
lisri, Americans, and blacks. These, mingled with
oi»f. stock of pigs and poultry, dogs, kittens, sheep
and canaries, might be said to form a kind of

>■ 111

A GLIMPSK AT THE

Noah's ark in niiniatui'o. The canine portion of
our party, however, atklcd more to oiu* inconve
nience than our comforts, increasing, as they did,
our live stock with large quantities of a diminu-
tive race, vAxv^ I do not recollect to have seen repre-
sented in the party that joined Noah at the period
of the Flood. Practical jokes, too, in which sailors
Avill indulge when under no strict discipline, by
which, to say nothing of the mischief occasioned
to your clothes, the freeborn was, by the wanton
application of pitch and tar, not easily distin-
guished from the African. These, and similar
nuisances, were of too frequent commission on
board the " Prince Albert." . . . . ., «. -

When the weather is moderate this motley
group becomes scattered over the ship ; some
washing themselves, others mending or making
their garments, some earnest in talk; then the
cooking, and the preparation for it, forms a con-
stant occupation. Occasionally a grand struggle
takes place at the cook-house, a misunderstand-
ing, perhaps, about "Whose turn next?' when
some old Mynheer having displaced a fair one,
just finishing a beautiful fry, for the honour of
the sex, in steps a Don Quixote to avenge the
indignity ; then the combatants multiply, when a
general row ensues, and the only mode to settle
the matter is to order sundry buckets of water

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

on the fires, when the innocent and the guilty
are content to eat cokl victuals.

It is to be hoped, however, that these incon-
veniences will be avoided for the future, under
the operation of the recent order of the Queen
in council, which, properly carried out, will pre-
vent a recurrence of scenes so discreditable

i: The vessel itself is well constructed ; she was
built, Tke many others of her class, in New York,
though coppered, partly rigged, and a portion of
her canvass, &c., supplied in London. All this
employs British capital and labour, independent
of the benefit arising to commerce by reciprocity
and free trade. These liners are generally laden
with iron-rail, and various kinds of manufactured
goods, returning to us, flour, bread-stuffs, &c.,
rendering undeniable advantages to both countries,
under the present liberal system, which works well.
The practice, however, which is generally adopted
on board these vessels, of selecting the officers
and crew indiscriminately from Englishmen and
Americans, is not congenial to the feelings of the
men of either nation, the party most benefited
being the owners. The English sailors are pre-
ferred, and command higher wages, from their
superior practical knowledge ; and, although they
have frequently much to bear with, when serving
under a foreign flag, they can scarcely be expected
to resist the temptation, when, as in the time of

A GLIMPSE AT THE

peace, employment is difficult to be met with under
their own. . . r

The French party on board is formed princi-
pally of men who figured in Paris during the late
revolution. The present French government has
wisely furnished funds in London, to all refugees,
who are willing to proceed to the United States,
thinking them less dangerous at a distance ; and
a great many, after wandering about destitute, and
without hope of occupation, eventually emigrate
to America: they appear a visionary set of
enthusiasts, and never likely to sober down to
rational habits of life. Their chat, however, is
amusing, and they exhibit, with peculiar satisfac-
tion, the scars received in the struggles for
" Liberte, fraternite, equalite." :.;i a s; >-■ ■ >i,»yM„k

Their revolutionary engagements have, indeed,
placed them in a sad condition ; and, after all the
endurements of a long sea voyage, they have still
to struggle on a large, widely extended continent,
unknown and friendless. On landing, they each
receive ten dollars, and, with the natural buoyancy
of their character, they talk of celebrating the
occasion with a grand banquet. Many of the
emigrants who proceed to America have relations,
who, having prospered in their undertakings, send
for their wives and children, but the great majority
go out on mere speculation : so many thousands
and tens of thousands pouring annually into New

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

York, would be attended with much misery and
distress, did not the sagacity of the United States*
government provide an excellent remedy for the
evil, by requiring every emigrant ship to con-
tribute at least one dollar for each steerage pas-
senger ; this forms a sufhcient fund for defraying
the expenses of an establishment, where all the
poor, friendless emigrants find an excellent tem-
porary home, on leaving their ship, and from
this institution all applicants are supplied with
labourers.

It is noAV the 25th of July, and, although
within four days' sail of New York, (about eight
hundred miles), owing to the prevalence of the
usual contrary winds, little progress is made in our
voyage, and it may be four months ere we reach
our destination, — such is the uncertainty of sea
voyages by sailing ships. We are likewise
experiencing the effects of the gulf stream, which,
taking a north-easterly direction, in the absence of
strong winds, retards our progress ; this remark-
ably strong current, coming from the southern
and warmer climates, meets the cooler waters of
the north, and, occasionally, floating icebergs; these
gradually dissolve, otherwise the navigation
would be rendered impracticable : as it is, in the
most northern latitude, the danger is considerable;
and, although the immediate neighbourhood of
the iceberg is indicated by a great change in the

I : f]

A GLIMPSE AT THE

atmosphere, from heat to cold, yet collisions arc
not unfrequent. ; t ;

To increase the discomnture of a protracted
voyage, })rovisions were reported to be getting
scarce, and the supply of animal food was con-
fined to the chief cabin : flour, rice, biscuit, tea
and sugar were, however, still distributed to the
majority of passengers. Before we take to boiling
down our shoes, we have still to cut the throat
of our solitary pig ; and, should providence still
doom us to the mercy of a prolonged sojourn on
the billows, we have still the pet old cow, not to
mention the dogs and cats before enumerated as
part of our Noah's ark. '

To reheve ennui, some of the most wild and
dirty-looking Germans take to quarrelling amongst
themselves, and it appears wonderful that some
of them do not tumble overboard in the confusion.
The only accident, however, worthy of notice was
the sudden immersion of a child in the pea-soup
boiler J but, being fortunately rescued by the cook
before its body had become invisible, no mischief
occurred beyond a scalded leg, of which the
attentions of the mother soon eflfected a cure.
As the people lay about the ship, they invite the
pencil to impart some of its reminiscences on
paper; the uneasy roll of the ship, however
makes it difficult to get a sufficiently steady ^
group for the artist. Another source of recreation

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

is music. The mate takes tlie accorclion, the
steward the flute, a German plays the trombone,
the writer ti.e tiddlc ; but, as the instruments are
played apart, and not in concert, no alarm is
occasioned to the monsters of the deep. Touches
of English songs — " The deep, deep Sea'* " Cherry
Ripe^ " Believe me if all those endearing youiiff
charms" &c., occasionally break on the ear, but
the efTorts of the Germans, naturally very musical,
are rendered ineffectual from the effects of low
diet, which has made abortive all attempts at
romance or poetical effusrion : their hollow, pale
and haggard cheeks bespeak the reality. All
will, however, on seeing land, rouse their worn-
out faculties, hail the blessed earth, and, like
great Columbus, bend the knee, and embrace
mother dust.

Eriday morning, 30th July, lat. 41° 15', long.
61° 40'. — We are still on the deep, deep sea;
for some days we have been creeping along in
almost smooth water, and sometimes becalmed.
The sea has changed its colour to a greenish tint ;
signs of soundings are proclaimed on the great
American Continent, pnd any litile piece of sea
weed, or of wood floating past, buoys up our
spirits. Som.e of my companions du voyage look
the picture of despair — all their private stock of
superfluities is exhausted; the very tobacco all
gone, and to get half a pipe-full out of some

I
w

A GLIMPSE AT THE

more fortunate comrade, is quite a diplomatic
affair ; the last pincii of snuff is a mere remini-
scence of past times : but, what is really alarming,
we fiJid the stock of coals is out, and the cutting
up old spars and masts for firewood, becomes a
matter of calcidation and much anxiety. Fortu-
nately, water is served out, and our condition
might still be worse : the want of water is the
calamity most of all to be dreaded.

All these circumstances bring with them their
appropriate lessons ; — never trust to a sailing ship
outward, particularly an emigrant ship. Across
the Atlantic the winds j)revail, during nine months
out of the year, from the west, and, when travel-
ling for amusement or health, it is not necessary
to submit to be huddled together with hundreds
of your fellow mortals, who, to say the best for
the majority of them, are from a very low cast
of society, even if they have a claim to common
honesty. In the present instance, indeed, w^e had,
unfortunately, undisputable evidence to the con-
trary, advantage having been frequently taken of
the sick, the prostrate, or care-worn voyager, to
plunder him from beneath his very pillow. The
shark, who, following merely his natural and
animal instinct, pm'sues the vessel in the hope of
satisfying the cravings of nature, is a noble crea-
ture compared with the wretch, who, taking
advantage of the paralysed energies of his fellow

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

man, secretly robs him of that, which, being gone,
leaves him " poor indeed." Human depravity is
not, unhappily, confined to one pai ticular part of
the globe ; it is met with alike in prisons and
palaces, in the crowded streets of a metropolis,
as well as on a frail bark like this, when a single
plank giving way, launches all into eternity.

Amongst all our disasters, as I have said, we
have not to record the loss of one life on board : on
the contrary, we have added two immortal souls to
our number, our mate acting in this, and on
every needful occasion, as doctor, in which capa-
city, great credit is due to him, and much good
fortune has attended his practice, as compared
vdth the last voyage out, during which, although
carrying a regular surgeon, five persons were
committed to the deep.

We have, at length, the important and truly
welcome intelligence, that the pilot is about to
board us, distance two hundred and forty miles
from New York. During the summer months,
the pilot-boats, some of them built on the model
of the ** America," yacht, venture out as far as
four hundred miles, knowing the track of the
European ships, and each rival company vies with
the other in manifesting their activity to be first
on board. The pilot gives us the intelligence of
Henry Clay's death, the great American Con-
gress man. We English must now consider

B 2

I'.i'

■ ,

A GLIMPSE AT THB

Kings and Queens as titles only ; we have now to
deal with plain names ; we have approaehed, so
we arc told, a laud of independence, equality, and
perfect freedom.

The ship's people, on the pilot coming on deck,
could have hugged him with delight ; he was a
fine jolly-looking old sailor : the event roused our
party into life, and the " great unwashed," hav-
ing now scrubbed and washed themselves, and
put on their holiday clothes, were so greatly me-
tamorphosed, that many of them could scarcely
be recognised.

Two more days at length brought us in sight
of our long looked-for haven. On Sunday, the
1st of August, a large steam-tug bore down upon
us, when, after an amusing scene between the
Yankee and our ])utch captain, a bargain was
struck, and one hundred and ten dollars agreed
to be given to tow us into port. This service
was well performed, and, in the afternoon, our
heavy ship was safely placed alongside the wharf.

It would be presumptuous in me to attempt
any addition to the many descriptions already
given of the appearance of this magnificent Con-
tinent, as you approacli New York. The day was
calm and bright, the various boats and ships re-
flected in the pale green sea, their sails white as
snow — the landscape all seemed to harmonise with
our gladsome feelings, and the troubles of the

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

past wore buri(3(l in tho Imppy present. We gra-
dually closed in ui(h the land, the beautiful island
of Staten, covered with villas, giirdens, and shrub-
beries, with hill and dale, was most refreshing to
our sight, after so much sea and sky ; the scene
was nuK'h enlivened by innumerable steamers and
sailing vessels, freighted with masses of human
beings, inhaling the health-breathing breezes, and
enjoying the beauties of creation, glad to escape
from the heated atmosphere of a largo city.

It was, indeed, with a light heart that, ere the
sun luul dipped into the regions of the far West,
I, for the first time, trod the earth of the young
giant. All was bustle, animation, and excitement;
those on shore hurried on board ship, some from
curiosity, others to offer their services to stran-
gers. The only individual to whom I could look
for welcome was a nephew, and he, not knowing
of my arrival, was not present to greet me. I
had no regrets on leaving the " Prince Albert."
She had, indeed, performed her part well, bringing
me, in face of winds and waves, safely over four
thousand miles of ocean. But I once more caution
the reader to beware of emigrant ships ; the offi-
cers and sailors of such vessels get hardened and
callous to all classes, particularly the poor and
unfriended, who go by them, and have no more
sympathy for them, than the very animals they
kill and eat. Our ship may have been a bad

..f

A 0MMP8E AT THIS

specimen of such vessels ; but report speaks un-
favourably of these London and Liverpool liners.
Oiu" coloured steward, whose ugly face I beheld,
for forty-five days, consecutively, was a perfect
brute ; and I regretted that I could not place
him on the treadmill for a week, if it were only
to punish him for his tyranny to those below hiiK,
and to the poor white-woman-stewardess. Our
Dutch Captain I could not well understand ; he
appeared to favour the Germans more than the
English. I was often tempted to ask him if his
father or any of his relations had been in the
battle of Camperdown, when Admiral Duncan
gave the Hollanders a licking ? for he had a bad
feeling towards us, and annoyed us much whilst
under his command.

I hope I shall not be considered too tedious if
on taking leave of this subject I most earnestly
recommend all persons to select ships in which
the characters of the captain and officers are well
established ; it is too important a matter to leave
to chance. I was well punished for neglecting
this necessary duty, for which, being an old road
and sea-traveller myself, 1 can only plead
guilty to the very proper verdict passed upon me
imder the operation of the law of "sarve him right."
Having now brought the reader to the end
of the first chapter and endeavoured to convey
a correct impression of my voyage across the

I' . I

^
rt

UNITED STATES OP AMERICA, ETC.

Atlantic, T cannot do better, on gaining terra finna,
than devote the next chapter to New York
and its lions, premising that it is not my object
or intention to enter into petty details, or to
fatigue the reader with extracts from, or opinions
of, writers he may have already perused ; my wishes
being confined, as before stated, to the desire of
uniting the character of a pL a straightfor^vard
journalist, with any limited powers I may possess
of artistic representation, having been from my
youth an ardent worshipper of God's omnipotence,
and an humble delineator of his great and glorious
works.

J*-

KItS^aI «■

A GLIMPSE AT THE

. -->:■ . ■

CHAPTER II.

I?ew York Citjf. — Broadivai/. — Einip'ants. — Immense iri'
crease of Fopulation. — Trade and Shippinf/. — Ba'j and
Roadstead. — Stalen Island and Fcrrif Boats. — Forts
Fasette and Hamilton . — Brookhpi. — Greenwood liural
Cemetery. — Charaetcr of the Irish. — Mechanics and
Labourers. — Imj»'cssions on Landing. — Astor, Irvine,
JIamilton,and Washinc/ton Hotels. — American Ladies,
— White and Black Servants. — Boarding Houses. —
Washington Markets. — Brohibilinff Scde of Wine and
spirits. — Paper Money and Currency. — Circula-
tion. — Silver Coin.— Go-a-hrad Character. — Boats and
^ Steamers. — Education of the People. — Public Institu-
,. tions. — Stores and I'ltri/T. — Iron, Lead, Coal, Sfc- -
Labour scanty. — Increasiny Population and Wealth. —
Great Ambition of the Yankees. — Canada, West Indies^
and Cuba. — Slavery and its Abolition. — Influence of
the Valley of the Mississippi. — Mexican War. — Medley
Character of the Troops. — Departure to the Lakes, Sfc.

Most travellers will concur in opinion that the
far-famed city of New York, for noise and bustle,
surpasses all other cities in the civilised world,
not even excluding the great metropolis of Eng-
land. The well-knov,^n Broadway sweeps through
the entire town, five miles in length, and in it
appears to be concentrated everything connected
with public as well nr with private life. Enormous
hotels, large stores and public buildings, are scat-
tered ni all directions without any regard to uni-
formity. A constant running is kept up by about
six hundred omnibuses all day long, and a weary

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

stranger, just escaped from the perils of the deep
and requiring repose, may look for it in vain. The
heat, too, was insufferable, but by keeping the
windows and Venetian blinds closed during the
day, a comparatively cool atmosphere was obtained.
During the summer, about fifty thousand emi-
grants per month land in the city ; such, however,
is the increased and still increasing demand for
labour, that these are soon dispersed over various
parts of this vast continent to assist in developing
the resources of the country they have chosen.
"" The effect produced on the advance of agriculture,
and the rapid progress made in the increase of
population, is beyond all precedent. At the com-
mencement of the present centur}', the inhabitants
of New York, and its adjacent cities, Jersey and
Brooklyn, did not exceed in number fifty-three
thousand ; they now amount to at least seven hun-
dred and fifty tl( usand. The city of New York,
itself, is built on the island after wh^'^h it was
named; the approach to it, however, is not so
striking as an admirer of natural beauty might be
led to hope for : it is formed by the north and
the east rivers and a creek or inlet connecting
them. The island is fourteen miles long, and, on
an average, a mile in breadth ; at its southern
point stands the city, which extends from one
river to the other.

The principal trade is on the east side, where

v'".

A GLIMPSE AT THE

the American liners, and other large ships, receive
and discharge their cargoes, being more secure
during the winter from the ice which floats past
from the north river. The depth of water enables
the largest ships to lay alongside the wharfs or
jetties that encompass the entire shore, where they
remain in perfect security for loading and dis-
charging their cargoes ; whilst the bay and har-
bour form a magnificent and commodious road-
stead for the ships of all nations.

There are many spots within easy reach of the
city that might be selected as desirable for a per-
manent residence. Among those may be men-
tioned Staten Island, about ten miles from the
metropolis, a lovely spot covered with vegetation,
and studded with villas embracing every variety
of architecture. The merchants of the river palaces
are glad to escape to this charming retreat in the
summer months, which possesses the double ad-
vantage of low rents and salubrity of climate.
The ferry-boat fares across to the island are only
six cents each person.

In a military point of view, also, the island is
important, commanding, as it does, the approaches
to New York. Facing Eort Fazette, near Fort
Hamilton, another very strong fort is now being
erected. This spot, called the Narrows, which Is
not much more than two thousand feet wide, will
render the bay and shipping perfectly secure
against any enemy, however formidable.

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

Brooklyn, on the opposite shore, but much
nearer to the city, on the extremity of Long
Island, is still more convenient as a place of re-
sort, and the ferry boats cross over every five
minutes, at the charge of only one cent each pas-
senger. This neighbourhood abounds wit> plea-
sant and picturesque drives, the most admired of
which is Hamilton Point, and the rural cemetery.
Greenwood, commands a charming view of the
entrance to the city, as well as of the Atlantic
ocean. --■■ ■' -^v -r-^!-. ^^ ; ., .. \ ;^ >■ . .•... ■-^

As regards the character of the population, the
Irish, who form no inconsiderable portion of it,
evince a spirit anything but friendly towards the
English, who, in case of emergency, would, pro-
bably, find more genuine spirit in the native
Yankee. They are usually employed as domestic
servants, labourers, porters, and on work connected
with shipping ) it is rarely that an American is
found in the performance of these offices.

Indifferent mechanics or second-rate workmen,
must not expect to find America a good field for
their labours ; but first-rate talents, in the various
departments, meet with every encouragement
and command success. -

Or first arriving in the American metropolis,
after a voyage of four thousand miles, less vio-
lence is committed on our iSp'^a and associations,

1 1:

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A GLIMPSE AT TUB

li I

} !i

than we feel after a short two hours' run across
the Straits of Dover to France, where a total
change is presented in the lanp;iiagc, manners,
and character of the people, and in every thing
around you. This naturally has a great influence
on tlie English traveller in America, who is con-
stantly reminded that he is sojourning among the
same people, originally of the same land as him-
self; the language, however, is the great con-
necting link between the two countries.

Things in America are done on a large scale,
somewhat in keeping with the magnitude of the
soil. ,.

At many of these monster houses of public
accommodation, the " Great Astor,** and the
** Irvine," for example, so many as from five
hundred to one thousand persons are dined and
slept. The establishment at Fort Hamilton is
one of this description, and, having the advantage
of charming scenery and sea-bathing in the
vicinity, renders it a place of great attraction.
American ladies, with their children, find this a
place of pleasant and convenient resort, but no
intercourse takes place, excepting by previous
introduction. You may offer to make yourself
useful to a lady at the piano, but your services are
repulsed by her immediate retirement. Where
so many are brought indiscriminately together,
it is doubtless as well to err on the side of pru-

UNITED STATES OP AMERICA, ETC.

dence, but this line of conduct may be carried
beyond the verge of necessity or good manners.

The Washington Hotel, formerly the residence
of General Howe, and, after the Independence,
the head quarters of General Washington, is, in
point of situation, the most Agreeable and con-
venient in the city, being close to the battery and
promenade, and within a few minutes' walk of the
several steam-boat and ferry stations.

The internal economy and general management
of the hotels vary little throughout the country ;
the charges are two dollars per day, exclusive of
wine, but including attendance of every descrip-
tion, which, however, is none of the best ; the
servants of the house being principally composed
of Irip^men and women and blacks, who know
little or nothing of their business. The tables
are always liberally supplied, but little wine is
drank. The male portion of the company gene-
rally adjourn to the tap, where sherry-cobbler,
mint-julep, &c., are freely indulged in, to the
great prejudice and inconvenience of ordinary
stomachs, like mine, bred in the school and habi-
tuated to the re/jhiie of the great Abernethy.

The boarding-houses in America are, also, on a
large and uncomfortable scale, and are conducted
on a system even less sociable and agreeable to
English tastes, habits, and feelings, than their
hotels.

■ii

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V II

1 1

A GLIMPSE AT '^HB

New York receives its supply of fresh water by
means of an aqueduct called the Croton ; this
work reflects much credit on the enterprise and
public spirit of the people ; it is twelve miles in
length, and was erected at a cost of twelve mil-
lions of dollars. The mode in which the people
are rated for their supply of water is as follows :
houses of three stories high, pay fifteen dollars,
two stories, ten dollars, and so 'n proportion.

Three millions of dollars per annum are raised
in New York to provide for its municipal dis-
bursements, including the police, or ninety-six
cents per hundred dollars, assessed on each person,
according to their incomes.

The markets, particularly the Washington
market, are well supplied with all articles of con-
sumption; the fruit is most inviting: water-
melons, musk-melons, bananas, peaches and apples
in abundance ; and the vegetables, very superior,
such as Indian com, tomatoes, egg-plant, and
quasha. A large building is about to be erected
on the market-ground, in lieu of the low sheds,
which, in hot weather, are unbearable ; it is sur-
prising this has been so long neglected, as, in most
things, there is no lack of public enterprise.

Much public discussion has been created by
the State of Maine and the two adjoining states,
prohibiting the sale of wine and spuits publicly.
These acts seem so contrary to the boasted free-

UNITED 8TATE8 OF AMERICA, ETC.

h-..'

dom of republicans, that we Europeans are not
prepared to hear of such arbitrary measures,
which, in Europe, would not be tolerated. At
Newport, some informers got ill-used, for giving
information of a sale of wine. These laws are
passed to check intoxication in these states. Ge-
nerally, the Americans are a sober people. Each
state enacts its own local laws, issues its own
paper money and currency : this, however, fre-
quently gives rise to much inconvenience, and is
often opposed to the general feelings and views
of tlie community. The paper money in general
circulation, varies from one dollar and upwards,
and, being thus issued by every State in the
Union, causes much perplexity, some of the paper
being at a discount, and some scarcely distribut-
able; a stranger, therefore, generally suffers
through his ignorance of the system, and is at
the mercy of the dealer. There is no small silver
in the States, scarcely ; it is always difficult even
to get a dollar changed ; gold, however, is more in
circulation, varying in value from one dollar to
forty, and a very handsome coin.

Notwithstanding the apparent simplicity of the
American money, ono cent and upwards, which,
in theory, sounds so well, money tiansactions,
are less complex even , with our English
money, denominated pounds, shillings, pence and
farthings. French, Spanish, Mexican, Peruvian,

A GLIMPSE AT THE

[

and American silver is so inlcrmixcd in the cir-
culation, and, when worn, is so undiliimble, that
the confusion and loss in the exchange is u great
evil.

"What hns been generally remnrkcd of the Ame-
ricans is most just : they are truly an energetic,
go-a-head people, restless in t!)e extreme, and
their anil ition knows no bounds. Though slaves
to the dollar, they do not neglect their pleasures :
their ships are first-rate, their yachts beautiful,
perfect models ; and, as for the floating palaces,
the steam-boats, which ply along the sea-coost
or on the lakes and rivers, they arc, indeed,
splendid, and they may well be proud of them j
they have such abimdance of space to run about,
the water so smooth, and the fare so low, that
thousands upon thousands of people are, all day
long, moving about either for business or plea-
sure.

The United States' Govcrmcnt have seen the
great importance of a national education, and the
people have so much immediate self-indepen-
dence, that every man has a vote.

Public schools, particularly in New York, are
opi'n gratis to the poorer classes, and even cloth-
ing found for children to appear decent, so that
every member of thew union is placed in the posi-
tion to be trained to the proper exercise of liis
right as citizen.

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

New York can bonst of several noble institutions
for tlic advantage of the Innnbler classes, of uhich
stand proniiiicnt — " Tree Academy of the City
of New Yoik," " Library of the New York
Historical Society," "The Apprentice's Library,"
and the " Mercantile Library."

The stores of New York are very extensive,
and have a very large assortment of every de-
scription of goods, both European and American,
of which the former predominate. It will be
long before the Americans can be independent
of Europe for manufactured goods, particularly
the better kinds, and the imports are very consider-
able ; notwithstanding the duties and transit ex-
penses amount to upwards of 50 ^ er cent., the
trade increases annually. I'he bowels of the earth
are rich in iron ore, coal, lead, and other metals,
but, as yet, worked, only, to a trifling amount ; la-
bour is dear, and the population is still scanty
for all the purposes required.

Much has been done, — and it is wonderful to
contemplate the rapid strides that have been made
— but still greater things are in embryo. In the
endeavour to work too much at once, many failures
have taken place ; but the United States is des-
tined to be a nation of a hundred millions of
people, and immense the wealtli that must accrue
to individuals. It is to be hoped the varied in-
terests of the different states will be ultimately

ii',

BBVI

A GLIMPSE AT THE

|.i

united, nnd faalnoncd into one great Empire,
an interesting tiling for Europe to witness:
BO vast n continent of tree men must exercise a
beneficial influence U[)o\i the world at large.

To time we must leave the development of
great works, but even tlic Americans nmst not
look for the ace()mi)Iisnment of too much; they
would desire the wliolo north and south to be
perfectly independent of European sway, and to
become free states. Canada and the West India
islands, they ca/cnJfiic, as a certainty, will be
wrested froniGreat Britain. With regard to Cuba,
they have already given clear indication of th.eir
ambition, — nothing but the mighty influence
exercised by (jreui Bi'itain will keep these bold
repi;blicans in proper subjection ; they wantonly
the power and pretext to ])lant tin ir eagle and
stars npon the citadel of Quebec and other
strongholds. During the late troubles in Canada,
there were proofs enough that nothing but the
strong arm of Great Britain kept that country
from being annexed to the thirty -two stars of the
union. When speaking of Canada hereafter,
recurrence will be had to this subject.

Time, again, must, with the assistance of divine
Providence, gradually work out the abolition of
Slavery in the United States : it is a national dis-
grace — it is like a dread ulcer, eating and destroy-
ing the otherwise healthy frame. Slavery, however.

S\\

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

is not a subject which tlie Americans can, at
present, endure to fl(;l)ate. Tlie great wealth of the
country ia produad by shvve hd)our, and three-
fourthn oftho exports, pruu pally from the south-
ern states, such as cotton, tobacco, rice, &c , arise
from that source alone. At present the northern
states have an interest opposed to tlie south : the
former, to protect their manufactures, ask for a
still increased tariff ; the south want free trade,
so that their produce may find unrestri ted cir-
culation. Such is the discord " looming in the
future." - • * ''■ - ''■•'^-'. ' '"■'■''■; '••-"•.i -:■■ '■

There is, however, another, a third influence ; it
is working its way slowly, but surely, viz. the far
west. The vallty of the Mississippi now contains
thirteen millions of white and free men ; should
they join the north, an event by no means im-
probable, slavery would be abolished ; but so long
as man has this all-absorbing monied interest in
his fellow man, how is the emancipation to be
effected ? Slavery is the blot on the escutcheon of
America.

" Man's inhumanity to man
V Makes countless thousands mourn."

It is the hydra-headed monster ; a second Her-
cules must rise to crush it.

At this moment the public newspapers in New
York are working themselves into a fever on the

'«:

A GLIMPSE AT THE

Fisliery boundaries question ; some of their sloops
having been seizt d by British cruizers, their flag,
tliey say,has been insulted, and war thev must have
with John Bull. They talk as if all Europe were
subject to their power and influence ; the inflated
language employed, and the position they assume
in this matter is absurd and laughable in the
extreme. They never were so ill prepared for
\v'ar as at present ; they have no steam navy to
speak of, all their great river boats are quite use-
less to ocrvo as an armament at sea. The Union
confines theii standing army to twelve thousand
men, and these are scattered over the entire con-
tinent, whilst their navy is not worthy of notice.*
On their own soil they would always muster a
large force, either of militia or of foreign mer-
cenaries; but, for purposes of aggressive war,
the boast is most futile; even in the last
Mexican war, only one-fourth of those serving
under the American flag were native troops, the

Since my return to England, t'le President's messsage to
Congress has been published. Its whole to:ie and tenor
is moderate, and pacific. All desire on the part of America
for possession of Cuba is repudiated. The; incorporation
of that island into the Union, would, it is declarer! be
fraught with serious evil. And, with I'egard to the
fisheries question, arrangements are stated tc be in progress
botween Great Britain and America, for ][>iaeing matters
on a satisfactory footing.

UNITED STATES OP AMERICA, ETC.

rest were Germans, French, Irish, Scotch and
English. To show the motley character of the
service, you find the commandant of Fort Hamil-
ton a Frenchman, the junior officers Americans
and Germans, the great majority of the men
Irish ; there was one solitary man, a sergeant,
who stated himself to be a native of Manchester
(a warehouseman), who, to all appearances, was
Ihn most respectable of the party.

After ten days' sojourn in this oven of a city,
I was all impatience to depart, and accomplish
the great wish of my heart — to run wild amongst
the glens and forests, to look down upon the
great lakes and hear the loud roar of the mighty
water-falls, the wonder and admiration of all

ages.

Note. — Since the preceding was in type, information has
reached me that a project is on foot for establishing a double
Ime of rail along the entire length of the gi'eat BroaJway in New
York. This w'M, indeed, if accomplished, be a most acceptable
undertaking to all classes, and will entirely obviate the great in-
convenience caused by the incessant noise and confusion, of
which all who reside in, or who visit, this city, most justly com"
plain.

A GLIMPSE AT THX

CPIAPTEIl III.

S^e Siver Hudson described. — Steamloats. — Henry
Hudson. — Sankikani and Manhartan Indiana. —
Jersey City. — Cunard' s Steamers (British). — Collins* i
and Havre Steamers (American) . — Scenery of " Yon-
kers," " Palisades," " Ibrt Lee," " Fiermont,"
" Tappan," " Grassy Point," " Warren," " Cald-
wells," and " Peekskill " Villages. — Washinyton
Irvine's Residence. — Poetry. — Highland Scenery. —
*^ West Point" Mountains. — Military School and
Barracks. — " Fjrt Putnam." — " Goldering" Village,
Iron Works and Steam Machinery. — " PollopeVa
Island." — " Rskkill " Valley. — " N'ew Paltz."—
" Barregat" and " Poughkeepsie," the Queen Village
of the Empire State.—'' Hyde Park."—'' West Park."
" Staatsburgh."—" Hondovt."— "Kingston."— " Bar-
rytoum." —" Tivoli." —" Sangertis" and "Bristol"
Villages. — Approach to the " Catskill " Mountains. —
Pine Orchard and Mountain House. — Description of
the Forest and Ascent. — Scenery compared with Naples
and Rio de Janeiro and Quebec. — Desirable for In-
valids. — " Catskill" Waterfalls. — Morning Descent
and Description. — Embarked on the Hudson. — "City
of Hudson." — Villages of "Athens," " Coxsackie,"
" Kinderhook," " New Baltimore," " CoeymaiCs"
** Castleton," " Vamcie," and " Greenbush." — Fare-
toell to the River !

»/V\^V^/W\/\/\^^^\^v/V -^

I FEEL I ought not to do less than devote a
chapter to the magnificent Hudson, a truly grand
and lovely river, running upwards of one hun-
dred and fifty miles in length, having its source
in the mountainous regions (44° N. L.) between
Lake Champlain and the river St. Lawrence.

In many respects it is one of the most import-

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ant streams in the world from its extent, and is
not inferior in usefulness to the Mississippi : for
purposes of steam navigation, it is superior to all
other rivers. It is navigable for vessels for one
hundred and forty miles from its outlet, and its
course is only impeded by the ice during the
months of January and February.

The width of the Iladson for twenty -five miles
north of New York, varies from one to fc;ur
miles ; it is occasionally of a greater width, giv-
ing it, as you proceed, the appearance of a chain
of lakes ; the land on eitlier side frequently at-
tains an elevation of fifteen hundred feet above
the water's edge. Many large steamboats ply
up and down daily, besides thousands of ships,
sloops, and boats — giving animation to the scene,
whijh must be witnessed to be appreciated.

V/hat would be the astonishment and delight
of Henry Hudson, who, in the year 1610, first
discovered and made known to the world this
highly interesting locality, could he revisit this
terrestrial globe, and view the changes that have
,aken place ; to see the life, the very soul of man
tlirow"; upon this beautiful region, — what would
be his pride and satisfaction in seeing millions of
his felloAV-creatures located in the spot which he
found inhabited by wild Indians, whose clothing
consisted of the skins of elks and foxes, their
food Indian corn, sleeping in the open air, on

;

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A GLIMPSE AT THE

mats made from leaves of trees, and preying on
white men, whtn opportimity ofiered. Where
New York now stands, a tribe named Sankikani
squatted, hostile to their surrounding neighbours,
the Manhartans and others, but all opposed to
the pale-faced man, warring against him from the
land east beyond the seas. They would, how-
ever, occasionally barter for furs and skins and
large oysters, in return for beads, iron, and their
favourite drink, rum.*

Such is (' . Ltent, variety, wealth, and popu-
lation of this . er, with its towns, villages, ham-
lets, villas, farms, and plantations at this day.
To convey an idea of its greatness, I will briefly
enumerate some of the chief features which at-
tracted my attention, and which may be useful
to future travellers, especially to the artist. I
would desire him to lay in a good store of ma-
terials for portraying this wonderful river ; it
offers inexhaustible matter for his pencil and
brush.

Early on the morning of the Qtli of August,
I embarked on board one of the large river steam
palaces, freighted with many himdred passen-
gers and some merchandize. The river takes

• It is curious to observe that Hudson found the In-
dians on the Vvest shore more affable and friendly than
those on the east side, who were ever at war one with
the other.

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almost a direct northerly course from the bay of
New York. ^ '';■'■"•? '^' ■ -"•:'.«• ^-w.;^:-' .h v'i;-

"When I embarked, the morning was, indeed,
lovely, and the smi brilliant, so that the beau-
tiful scenery was displayed to the best advan-
tage, and nature having commenced her autum-
nal clothing, it appeared the most opportune
period for observing the landscape in its very
best attire- On leaving the shore, we had soon,
on our left, a good view of the Jersey City, which
is situate on the north-west side of the bay, a
place of considerable importance, communicating,
by means of a ferry, with New York, every five
minutes. The Philadelphia, Paterson, and Hud-
son Railroads have their termini at this place,
and the Morris Canal also terminates here.
• The Cunard line of steamers to Liverpool have
their depot here, where, also, the boats (those
belonging to Great Britain) load, discharge, and
take their passengers ; whereas, the American
company, C ^llins's line and the Havre line, have a
more convenient place at New York, the jealousy
or illiberality of Brother Jonathan not allowing
similar accommodation to British steamers. If
in London or Liverpool such a spirit were ma-
nifested towards foreigners, "John Bull," him-
self, would be the first to cry "fair play:" the
relation of the fact will, I trust, pardon the
digression.

I '.■

A GLIMPSE AT THE

We now approach the village of " Yonkers, *
sixteen miles up the river from New York, a
favourite summer retreat from the city, and you
have the choice of conveyance during the day,
either by railroad or steamers. From the very
commencement, all this ground is interestingly his-
torical to an American. The grand revolutionary
struggles bordered much on this stream, under the
immediate command of that great man Wash-
ington, whose memory, I believe, every liberal-
minded Englishman venerates, equally with the
American.

The scenery up to this point, on either side, is
of a gentle slope, and attains no great elevation ;
but villas and plantations cover the entire face of
thf) country. As we approach " Fort Lee," how-
ever, the perpendicular rocks, named palisades,
commence — attain an elevation of about five
hundred feet from the water's edge, and extend
a distance of twenty miles along the river side
— altogether, a very striking object. " Fort
Lee " is frequently mentioned in American his-
tory, and, on the opposite side, is seen " Fort
Washington," two hundred and fifty feet above
the river.

At " Diermont," a thriving village, likely to
become a large flourishing town, a railroad com-
pany has been incorporated ; the rail is to termi-
nate at a distance of four hundred and fifty miles

-«

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on the shores of " Lake Erie," and to commu-
nicate with New York by boat; such is the
magnitude of works in operation at the present
day. All these are places of great attraction,
and afford abundant scenes for the contemplation
of the artist, especially the palisades.

The small town of " Tappan "* then comes in
view ; and, next, the village of " Warren." The
landscape here presented is beautiful in the ex-
treme, the whole teeming with life. The houses
are principally timber-built, painted white, which,
with a bright clear sun, amid groves of trees and
gardens, backed by the woods, present, altogether,
a striking object. The dwellings of man appear
to be endless.

A little in advance is " Grassy Point," where
marble of variegated colour and of great value is
found. " Caldwell's " village is another place of
importance. At ** Sing Sing," on the water's
edge, is built a state-prison five hundred feet long
by fifty-five wide ; it contains a thousand cells.

We now arrive at ** Peakskill " village, distant

* The American writer, Washington Irvine, has
selected this beautiful locality for his residence, calling
the spot Irving, after his own name; his residence is
about a mile from the village of Tappan. This favourite
novelist seems have bid farewell to Europe, altogether,
living unostentatiously among his admiring countrymen,
and is now advanced in years.

ri-

A GLIMPSE AT THE I 1 --f ^

forty miles from New York : the surrounding
country begins to assume the character of moun-
tain scenery, and the approach to " West Point "
is very fine : it is, indeed, the very gem of the river,
which now narrows considerably, and the moun-
tain?, showing an almost perpendicular height
from the water's edge, form a spot at once most
beautiful and ron.antic. So extensive and so varied
is the approach in the steamer, owing to the irregu-
lar winding of the river, turning and twisting every
moment, that the artist's point of view is con-
stantly altered, and he lays down his pencil in
despair. »

Your feelings harmonize with the glorious pro-
spect around you, and your memory calls forth the
beautiful lines of a poet, inferior to none, in ex-
pressing his admiration of Nature's works : —

" To ait on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell, '

To slowly trace the forest's shady scene, V

Where things that own not man's dominion, dwell, ;
And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been ; /

To climb the trackless mountain, all unseen,
"With the wild flock, that never needs a fold ;
Now o'er steeps and foaming falls to lean :
This is not solitude ! 'tis but to hold
Converse with Nature's charms, and view her stores
unroU'd."

This locality is very appropriately called the
Highland scenery of the river ; and, facing the
east bank, a moimtain named " Bull Inn,'* one

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thousand four hundred and ninety feet elevation,
stands in bold relief before you. " Upper An-
thony's Nose," another mountain, twelve hundred
feet, and " Beacon Hill," the highest of the group,
sixteen hundred and ninety feet above the tide-
waters of the Hudson, are also conspicuous,
affording a most magnificent view of river and
mountain scenery. Then, on the left bank, to-
wards the west, facing the above, are seen
" Crow's Nest," fourteen hundred and twenty
feet, and "Butter Hill," fifteen hundred and thirty
feet in height.

" Are not the mountains, waves, and skies, a part
Of me and of my soul, as I of them ?
Is not the love of these deep in my heart,
"With a pure passion ? should I not contemn
All objects, if compared with these ? and stem
A tide of suffering, rather than forego
Such feelings, for the hard and worldly phlegm
Of those, whose eyes are only tum'd below.
Gazing upon the ground with thoughts which dare
not glow !

I live not in myself, but I become
Portion of that around me ; and to me,
High mountains are a feeling ; but the hum
Of human feelings torture : I can see
Nothing to loathe in Nature, save to be
A link reluctant in a fleshy chain,
Classed among creatures, where the soul can flee,
And with the sky, the peak, and heaving plain
Of Ocefm, or the stars, mingle, and not in vain.

A OLIMPSE AT TUB

There is a pleaHiire in the pathless woods,

There is a rapture ou the lonely shore,

There is soeiety, where none intrude,

By the deep Hen, and inusie in its roar:

I love not man the leHH, but Nature more ;

"From these our interviews, in which I steal

From all I may be or have been before,

To mingle with the universe, and feel

What 1 can ne'er express, yet cannot all conceal.**

The weatlicr was beautiful ; scarcely a breath
of air was stirring : the sky serene, and, as the
water was perfectly smooth, it reflected, most dis-
dinctly, the images of the various objects on the
shore, and of the numerous vessels dispersed
along the river.

" The air around was breathing balm.
The aspen scarcely seemed to sway,
And as an infant sleeping calm,

The river streamed away.
Devious as error — deep as Love,
And blue and bright as Heaven above."

To describe all the grand and lovely pro-
spects presented to th« view on passing along this
noble river, would be an endless task ; all the
various effects that can be supposed to arise from
a happy combination of wood and water, of hill
and dale, are here seen in the greatest perfection.
The most important military school of the
Union is established here ; the academy was first

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organised in 1802, under the direction of General
\\ illinma. The chief buildings nrc the ucadcmy
barracks, quiirters of the commandant, officers, and
an excellent hotel, where travellers will find every
acconnnodation ; for this is a locality nnich fre-
quented, and a few weeks may be well spent in
rambling about ; for the views, whether from the
river itself or on the mountain top, arc equally fine ;
indeed, the latter are grand beyond description.

" Fort Putman " is another stronghold in the
immediate vicinity of West Point ; I fear the
painter, when he arrives at this place, will find
his mind bewildered with the varictv and inexhaus-
tible matter before him ; such was iny feeling on
beholding this wonderful combination of beauties,
combining the picturesque with the grand and
sublime ! ^

" The sounding cataract
Haunted me like a passion ; the tall rock.
The mountains, and the deep and gloomy woods —
Their colours and their forms have been to me an
appetite. "

The scenery of the " Highlands " being the
most glorious on the Hudson, I have naturally
lingered there, but, having only advanced one
third of my journey on the river, (the distance
from New York being now fifty miles,) I must
indeed make progress.

" Coldering Village " appears next in succession

i i

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;7i

A GLIMFS£ AT THE

as you advance northei ly ; it is famous for iron-
works ; and cannon of a large size, steam machi-
nery, &c are manufactured on a large scale.
In this vicinity is found good iron ore, also a
marble quarry, and other kinds of building stone.

** Pollopel's Island " is a mass of rock risiug
out of the water, opposite " Breakneck Hill,"
making a fine point in a fore-ground of a picture.
Ten miles north of West Point, we arrive at the
town of Newburgh, containing eight thousand
inhabitants, this is, indeed, a lovely spot. This was,
during the "War of Independence," General
Washington's head-quarters, and they still show
you the old Stone House where he quartered.
Facing Newburgh, stands the town of *' Fishkill,"
and the villages of " Matteawan" and " Glenham."

Many villages are here brought into immediate
contact, viz., the village of *' New Hamburgh,"
" Hampton/' " Marleborcugh," and " Milton," all
situate on the banks, and reflecting their lights
and shades in the water below. Near " Fishkill,'*
the deep valley, with its cascades and rapids, the
village, with its neat white dwellings, render it
one of the most beautiful scenes in the States ;
it tiUracts much attention, and is greatly resorted
to in summer. The villages of " New Paltz "
and " Barnegat " come next ; then, on the east
side, the town of " Ploughkeepsie," seventy-five
miles from New York, which is half way up the

'sm

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river, one of the most handsome and thriving of
the river towns. The river bank is two hundred
feet high at this place, and, from the hills ad-
joining, there is a delightful pro .pect of the town
and adjacent country ; it is called the " Queen
Village " of the Empire State.

We then approach the villages of " Hyde Park,"
*' West Park," " Staatsburgh,*' *' Hondout,"
" Kmgston," " Pan-ytown," " Tivoli," " Sauger-
ties " and Bristol, and other villages or hamltts,
in almost endless succession.

Since leaving west point, the landscape has ap-
proached more to the character of the gentle hiT
and dale, barked by ground not particularly ele-
vated,though the whole is covered with forest trees.
On arriving at the last-named place, I had a
glance of those magnificent mountains named
" Catskill," fifteen miles distant, the foreground
a beaiitiful, cultivated, level country, with the
viilago of that name situate on the river side;
altogether a most imposing scene, and particularly
inviting to the artist.

The great objects of attraction in this vicinity,
are the Pine Orchard and Mountain House. At
the landing pier at tiie Catskill village, I left the
steamer to pursue her way to Albany I spent
three days enjoying the beauties of this neigli-
bourhood but, having been much on the surface

A GLIMPSE AT THE

of the earth and water of late, I felt a desire to
ascend tJie mountain.

We found strong well-appointed coaches ready
to take us up into the higher regions. The hotel,
a white speck in the forest, we could just observe;
it is situate upwards of two thousand three hundred
feet above the river, backed by a range of moun-
tains of still greater elevation. The distance
from the landing place is twelve miles ; the road,
to the foot of the mountain, nine miles : the
ascent is by a good, though circuitous, road of
three miles : the hotel, which is a large and com-
modious building, can accommodate upwards of
one hundred persons. The prospect from this
rock is more extensive and diversified than, per-
haps, from any other point in the United States.
The Hudson river, with its green isles and thou-
sand sheets of white canvass, becomes visible for
sixty miles in a clear atmosphere.

Not many years since, this delightful spot
was almost unknown, and rarely visited ; but the
reports of the extent, beauty, and grandeur of
its prospects, and the salubrity of its atmosphere,
at length, attracted public attention ; the number
of visitors at each successive season increased,
until the temporary buildings at first erected,
gave place to the present large hotel.

I must offer my meed of praise to the proprie-
tor, for his enterprising spirit, and great perseve-

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

ranee, in surmounting so many obstacles, parti-
cularly in the completion of an excellent road,
which winds its way through a beautiful forest
of trees, such as the oak, chestnut, maple,
firs, hemlock, pine and birch, many of which
were cut down to make an opening ; then, again,
the huge rocks to be blasted and levelled before
a proper traffic could be established. Four stout
horses are employed in these excursions, taking
full three hours to accomplish three miles of
of almost perpendicular ascent.

This spot has been visited by many persons
known to fame, nainely Cooper, Irving, Willis,
Martineau and Power, some of whom have used
such exaggerated expressions of wonder at the
scene, that you would imagine no other spot on
earth equal to it. As regards my own fet lings on
the occasion, I have to remark that I have visited
the summit of Mount Vesuvius, ^ ich, with the
lovely bay of Naples at your feet, offers a finer
prospect. I have also luxuripted in the Brazilian
forests, and, I think, from the peak of " Corco-
vado," looking down upon the city of Rio de
Janeiro, its bay, coast and surrounding scenery,
infinitely superior ; as also from the high ground
on the citadel of Quebec, the panoramic view
around you is much finer, and more full of in-
terest Unquestionably, the scenery here is very
fine ; many visit it solely to see the rising of the

D 2 '

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A GLIMPSE AT THE

ili

glorious sun. During the hot months in the
lower valley, this is a delicious retreat, and many
families take up their residence here ; the air is
delightfully cool and invigorating, and the rambles
about and through the forests very interesting.
The Catskill Water-falls are distant about four
miles ; the first fall descends into a rocky basin
one hundred and eighty feet deep, thence the
water flows over a platform forty or fifty feet
high, then, struggling and foaming through the
shattered fragments of the mountain, and sha-
dowed by fantastic trees, it plunges into the
gloomy ravine below.

^ The falls are supplied, principally, from two
small lakes, which were passed in our route, quite
embosomed in the circling hills, covered with a
growth of straight giant-like pines, rising, range
above range, to the summit, where the tallest
stand in relief agam»i/ the sky.

Many other points of view may be visited in
this romantic spot. I was content to see the
most prominent, however, for time whispered
"Farewell to the mountains "

So, leaving mine host of the mountain-house
at day-break, once more to rejoin the Hudson, en
route northerly, a descent much more rapid, and,
indeed, agreeable in the cool of the morning
than in mid-day, which I found particularly
fatiguing, in ascending, from the heat. This matter

UNITED STVTES OF AMERICA, ETC.

travellers should consider well, on the arrival or
departure of the steamers. The drive down was
most beautiful, as it were moving through a con-
tinuous archway of Nature — trees and shrubs,
on either side, overhanging rocks, covered with
moss or hanging branches : occasionally there was
a glimpse of the valley below or the mountains
above, altogether a heavenly sight.

The lovely Hudson once more received its
freight, at the Catskill landing-place. In the
course of the afternoon, we arrived at the old
town of ** Albany." After enjoying the Highland
scenery at West Point, then the mountain scenery,
I could not expect more wonders on the Hudson,
that is, no overpowering views or objects.

I had lived almost to satiety on a bountiful and
constantly increasing profusion of beauties —

" As if increase of appetite had grown
By what it fed on."

I was therefore satisfied. The banks of the
river still presented beautiful vistas : before us lay
the city of Hudson, on the east side, a place
of considerable trade and importance, containing
seven thousand inhabitants.

Be not startled! — the village of "Athens" comes
next, somewhat more animated, but far less inter-
esting to the scholar and the classic than the
venerated Athens of old.

A GLIMPSE AT THE

H«

Then comes a village named "Coxsackic," where
bricks and other manufactured articles are
produced in large quantities. "Kinderhook,
"New Baltimore," " Coeymans," " Castleton,
" Vanwie," and " Greenbush " villages, all on
the river's margin, backed by beautiful woods and
plantations, come in rapid succession, the river, at
these i)oints, narrowing, and difficult of navigation.

The various towns, villages and hamlets, I have
named, convey some idea of the immense vitality
of the place, and what are seen passing up
and down the stream ; but, on the map, there
are laid down hundreds of places varying in dis-
tance from one to ten miles, of which the river is the
grand emporium for transit and communication;
all this has been effected ahnost within the memory
of man. Such is the tremendous activity of mind
and body of the Anglo Saxons, that, I make no
doubt, within a few short years, the places I have
named as hamlets or villages, will have expanded
into cities. We have before us an instance of
these rapid strides in the case of California.
Gold-diggings certainly produce a magical effect ;
but the riches and increasing prosperity of the
lovely Hudson, though, perhaps, slower, are quite
as certain, and, what is better, will be found based
on a surer foundation by the steadily increasing
progress of agriciUture and manufactures.

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

CHAPTER IV.

City of Albany. — Mohawk River. — Saratoga Sprinyg and
Hiyh Life. — American Ladies and Qentlemen. — Virtue
of the Saratoga Mineral Waters. — Lake. — Bemus
Heights and General Burgoyne's defeat. — Appearance
of the Country since the Battle. — Hotels described.—
" Olens Falls Waterfalls. — American and Brazilian
Forests compared. — Lake Oeorge and surrounding
Scenery described. — Fort of Tinconderoga and its
Ruins. — Military Training of the Colonists. — Lake
Champlain and its present appearance. — Town of
Burlington and University. — Plattsburgh and Naval
Actions. — Rouse* 8 Point. —Three Steamboat Accidents
and dreadful Loss of Life. — The American Law and
the English Bar.

The city of Albany, the capital of the state of
New York, one of the oldest cities in the Union, is
situate near the head of the tide, on the direct
line of communication with the St. Lawrence river,
Saratoga springs, and the lake country, in the
west, thus rendering it a great thoroughfare.

The completion of canals and railroads, in
conjunction with the daily steamboats running to
New York, has given Albany great commercial
importance, making it the entrepot for the greater
portion of the products of the state, destined for
the New York market. In some way, however, to
provide for the increasing traffic, a line of rail
has lately been opened nearly du-ect from the lake
country, i.e. from Lake Erie, through Dunkirk to

A GLIMPSE AT THE

If:

New York, a distance of nearly four hundred
miles.

The lower town of Albany is quite rs noisy as
New York. In addition to other sounds, the rail-
way music was immediately under the windows of
my hotel. The rail running into tiie very heart of
the place, is, certainly, very convenient if the
traveller is encumbered with heavy baggage ^ but
is in no other respect desirable.

The resident population, at the present time, i»
47,000 : the large hotels reap great advantage
from about 700,000 travellers, who annually pass
through the city — ^principally emigrants. The
city was incorporated in 1686, and, during the
last war of independence, was an important
military post.

After a very brief sojourn in Albany, I took
the rail for the celebrated springs of Saratoga,
thirty-six miles distant, passing, en route, the
" Mohawk " river, which, however, did not present
any particular feature, neither is the surrounding
country remarkable for its beauty : the rail took
us over ground where the forester's axe had but
recently done its work.

It is the practice on cutting down the trees, to
fire the lower part, which gives to the general
appearance of the scene rather a gloomy eflFect ;
in a few years, however, we shall find, no doubt,
extensive plantations and towns erected on this
locaUty.

TNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

The present village of Saratoga will, ere long,
expand into a large town. Even now, the enor-
mous hotels are insufticient for the accommoda-
tion of so many visitors, who, during the hot season
in the southern states, flock here, either for
recreation or health, so that the stranger arriving
at this period, sees people from every state,
congregated together, the slave-owner, perhaps,
next to a Bostonian, Pennsylvania or a Ken-
tucky man. Where a thousand persons are
accommodated in a hotel — and there happen to be
half a dozen such houses — it assumes more the
character of a public lounge or bazaar than any-
thing else ; and you may take your promenade
round about them all, either through the rooms,
verandas, or observe the doings at the windows.
A stranger takes his seat without order or intro-
duction, but must not address himself in con-
versation to his neighbour, particularly if it be
a lady : this is a thing which is never permitted,
even at the dinner-table.

I have sat down, day after day, with thousands
of my fellow-creatures, and as many wax figures,
or models, would have been quite as lively, perhaps
more desu-able, as I should have fared better,
and come in for a taste of the best dishes, which,
on the present occasion, I found swallowed up an
instant after my eye had telegraphed a nigger to
bring me some particular one my fancy had
selected !

A 0LIMP8B AT THIS

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Of the ladies, God bless them ! many are very
nice-looking — no wonder: beauty and fashion
assemble here, as tlicy do in most countries — some
to drink the waters, some to get married, some to
be admired or amused; but, with all their beauty,
aided by French fashions, the romance of the thing
vanishes when the reality of their habits and
manners is daily brought before you, especially at
their meals. The mouth of an American lady is
ever in danger of being widened by the knife she
uses, or the instrument, itself, of disappearing with
the food it carries to that ever smirking hole ! The
women are dehcately formed, with but httle colour,
and do not long retain their good looks like women
of a colder climate; they are, in themselves, cold and
reserved, and, with the exception of music, possess
few accomplishments. Never, in one soHtary in-
stance, did I observe an American lady sketching, or
painting, or offering a passing remark on the beau-
ties of Nature : they exhibit no enthusiasm of any
sort: and the men — all, of course, in their best at-
tire — generally dressed in black, look exceedingly
neat, but are found either walking or lounging
about, or assuming the solemnity of methodist
parsons, every individual giving you the idea that
he is, in his own mind, plotting his way up to the
President's Chair.

I found much benefit from drinking the waters
of Saratoga ; they are used generally throughout

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

the Union, oltliough little known in Europe. They
will keep good, however, several months after
crossing the Atlantic, and are peculiarly beneficial
as a general "preservative of the tone of the stomach,
purifying the blood, and cimng those diseases
entail A on the white man by the effects of a
southern climate; in these cases they have frequently
effected many surprising cures on Europeans as
well as Indians. There are six or eight different
springs found in the valley of Saratoga; that
named *' Congress " appears the most patronised.
As compared with the German or English mineral
waters, I am not prepared to give an opinion of
their value ; but I estimate the qualities of the
Saratoga springs very highly, and they have not
the least unpleasant taste.

The country round about Saratoga is pretty
much covered with forest, principally pine, reUeved
by the Indian corn plantations, which thrive amaz-
ingly. The houses are built of timber painted
white, which, with the trees and shrubs encircling
them, give a lively appearance.

Near Saratoga lake, one of the drives is to the
battle ground, where the English general, Burgoyne,
surrendered with his eight thousand men, arms,
ammunition and artillery, to General Gates in 1 777,
in his advane from Canada to communicate with
the British forces on the Hudson. Allowmg the
Yankees, with their English blood, full credit for

A O MM PRE AT TIIR

-I

courno;o and ability, yet I tliiiik tho rintiirc and
ditficnItioH of i\w (j^round wcro tlu^ gr(!att\st ini-
pcdinientH to om* British army. It is now acvonty-
ftve ytMirs since the battle of " Benuis Heights "
took place ; the country round aboiit is still covered
with forest land, and the roads are so indifferent,
as to render the attcMupt to provision an array
and keep up an extended line of comniunication
quite hopeless.

The Lake of Saratoga, an exceedingly l)eautiful
piece of water, is about five miles distant from
the town; it is about ten miles long, and from one
to three miles broad ; it is much frequented for
fishing.

An encampment stands on the skirt? of the
wood, near tlie village, occupied by an Indian tribe
of about one hundred, from the ftur west of St.
Lawrence River; they have erected tents, wigwams,
&c., having, altogether, a very picturesque appear-
ance. They make, and sell to visitors, baskets, bows
and arrows, purses, slippers, &c. They appear to
be an inoffensive people, exceedingly good-looking,
and, in form, not unlike the Tartar race. They
speak English very avcII, a knowledge of that lan-
guage having, no doubt, been acquired by the
constant visits of the ame tribe to these localities.

During the fashionable season, June, July and
August, the charges are much higher at the large
hotels — from three dollars, upwards, daily. Much

UNITED 8TATE8 OF AMEUKA, ET(\

is Rncrifioed for effect, the siiloona being eni)nci()\i8,
wlicreuH the bed-rooms nri; anmll, and tlie gencnil
attendnnec but inditt'ereiit. The table groans
under a variety of g(M)d things; but, where sueli
masses asseiiibk! together, before tlie meal is com-
menced, the provisions are eohl, and there is often
a great scrambh.' for them. Certainly, the whole
afll'air is striking as a parade, but there is no real
comfort. The meats were generally tough, fresh
killed, perhaps ; the It uits and vegetables, however,
were very tenipting, and delicious. The wine,
generally, very bad and dear, which is the case
throughout the country.

Much has been said by variou writers of this
well-known watering-place; I could not, however,
visit it, and that so recently, without giving it
more than a passing word. It is a delectable lit-
tle spot to spend a few days in, but no more.

Leaving Saratoga on the 18 th August, en toufe
for Lake George, a distance of about thirty n^iles,
by rail, via Moreau, the remainder of the journey
is performed by coach, which, passes through the
town of " Glens Falls," where you have a very in-
teresting view of the falls round about on the Hud-
son river, and where you get on what they call a
"plank road'* The scenery once more reminded me
of the Catskill mountains, a dense forest of trees.
The woods here bear a much more majestic
appearance than any I had before met with, owing

A GLIMPSE AT THE

more to the great height, than to the thickness of the
trees, which are chiefly oak, hiccory, hemlock, and
beech. The road was literally cut out from
out of the forest, on the side of steep hills ; al-
together it wr»s n, most delicious drive : the day
was warm and brilliant, but my fellow travellers,
Yankees, did not appear to enjoy the scene,
exhibiting on this, as on every occasion, a most
provoking apathy and indifference to all around
them.

But, as Beattie has so well and so justly re-
marked, "all persons are not equally susceptible
of these char?^iing impressions. It is strange to
observe the callousnoss of some men, before
whom all the glories of heaven and earth pass in
daily succession, without touching their hearts,
elevating their fancy, or leaving any durable
remembrance. Evci. of those who pretend to
sensibility, how many are there to whom the lustre
of the rising or setting sun, the sparkling concave
of the midnight sky, the mountain forest roaring
to the storm, or warbling with all the melodies of
a summer evening; the sweet interchange of hill and
dale, shade and sunshine, grove, lawn, and water,
which an extensive landscape offers !b the view
have no charms? The scenery of the ocean, so lovely,
so majestic, and so tremendous, and the many pleas^
ing varieties of the animal and v.^getable kingdom,
could never, to them, afford so much real satis-

VMTED STATES OF. AMERICA, ETC.

faction, as the steam and noise of a ball-room, the
insipid fiddling and squeaking of an opera, or the
vexations and wrangUngs of a card- table."

Travelling through the American forests, all is
silence, save the grasshopper's chirp, which, for so
small a creature, is singularly loud ; this circum-
stance made me, in my own mind, recal my
former rambles in the Brazilian woods in South
America. There, in the place of a solitary grass-
hopper, you have a confusion of noises caused by
the parrot, parroquet, and other birds, many of
beautiful plumage, to say nothing of the mar-
mozets, and other creatures. I do not men-
tion snakes, for they seldom intmde themselves
much, and are only dangerous at night, when
they prowl about for prey, and it is seldom that
persons travel late through dense thickets, woods,
or by indifferent roads; I cannot, therefore, astonish
the reader with any wonderful story of what the
snakes do, how they turn and turn round your
body, and, in one breath, swallow you entire,
leaving, perhaps, for a few moments, the heel of
your boot the only thing visible, when you dis-
appear for ever from your friends. -* i ^ ^. .

We arrived about mid-day at the commodious
hotel, Lake House, at Caldwell, situate on the
banks of the lake, where accommodation is found
for several hundred persons ; it is a place much
resorted to during the hot weather, by entii'e

A GLIMrSE AT THE

•'f

families. The surrounding country is one land-
scape of great beauty. The lake offers pleasant
aquatic excursions, and good fishing.

"Lake George" is thirty-six miles long, and
two to tlu^ee miles broad; the scenery is very
much admired: imraerous islands lie scattered,
covered with vegetation, whilst fantastic rocks are
seen peeping from amongst the fohage. His-
torically, it is a lake of much renown, for the
battles fought on its banks by the French and
Enghsh, and, afterwards, by the latter with the
Americans; on these sanguinary occasions the
tomahawk and scalping knife did their work of
killing and slaymg. It seemed almost incredible,
that, viewing nature in so lovely a garb, such
scenes of bloodshed should have visited a spot
more calculated to soften down man's sterner
nature than, on the contrary, to awaken the baser
and more demon-like passions within his breast.

A small steamboat runs daily the entire
length of the lake, by which opportunity I em-
barked early in the morning, and a beautiful trip
it was. Lake George is considered one of the
finest of the American lakes, though, at present,
very little population or buildings grace its shores,
equally the case with Saratoga lake; they are
both more frequented by those in search of the
picturesque, and are rather out of the usual track
for emigrants or commercial travellers, but the

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

next lake, and which is in a direc-. line with Canada,
(lake Champlain), claims more particular notice,
being of cc isiderable size ; it is one hundred and
twenty miles long, varying from one to ten miles
in widch, and showing signs of much vitality.

Leaving lake George at tlie north point, we
found coaches and vans in readiness to convey
us to the village of Ticonderoga, five miles dis-
tant, situate on the southern end of the lake :
our ride was exceedingly beautiful, over hill and
dale, with occasional peeps of the lake before us,
crossing over the high ground, once the strong
fortified fortress of Ticonderoga, the key of tlje
country, commanding a fine and panoramic view
of the scenery around.

This locality is celebrated as the battle ground,
so frequently the scene of the early struggles
which ended in Great Britain wresting this fine
country from the French.

The fort of "Ticonderoga" was built upon
the brow of the steep bank of the lake, but a
short distance from the water, and the remains
of its bomb-proof covered way, ovens, &c. are
still to be seen, though in a very dilapidated
state. A small circle to the south-east of this,
denotes the site of Grenadie's battery, and the
two small parallelogi'ams to the south-west of the
latter place, the situation of two strong redoubts ;
tais is all that remains, notwithstanding upwards

- -E

A GLIMPSE AT THE

J 'I

of two millions of pounds sterling was expended,
at the time, on improving and strengthening the
fort, &c ; such was the importance attached to
the position as the key to the country and water
communication. I did expect to find the Ame-
rican flag floating over these ruins, with an
artilleryman or two to guard the sacred spot.
Congress, however, does not waste dollars on mat-
ters of effect, merely ; little romance is to be found
in these go-a-head people.

It was during these wars with the French, on
this continent, that the native Americans founded
a school for military training, and did good ser-
vice as colonists ; even the great Washington
himself commenced his military career at this pe-
riod, and, in after times, made good use of his
experience in establishing the Independence. -> -

Large steamers ply daily on the lake, on the
banks of which are built many considerable towns,
and trade is carried on to some extent. A rail-
road also runs on the east side of the river, pa-
rallel with the lake. Passing "Westport," "Split-
rock," the town of " Essex," and "Willsborough:"
on the right " Shoreham," " Bridport," "Chimney
Point," "Ferrish," and "Shelburne." We landed
in the afternoon at the flourishing town of " Bur-
lington," containing eight thousand inhabitants,
which is half way up the lake. Stores here are
well supplied, furnishing the country for sixty

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

miles round w ith every European and American
commodity. •- :^

This town, like many others, is planned out
for occupying a great space, which is still to be
filled up. From its situation, it promises to be
a large city. The panoramic view from the cu-
pola of the University, built on rising ground, is
very fine, and conveys an excellent idea of the
scenery in this neighbourhood, showing more of
the features of the fine English landscape, with a
highly rich agricultural prospect, than anything of
the mountahious or grand ; generally speaking, this
lake, and country, round docs not equal in pic-
torial beauty that as already described on the
Hudson.

The hotels here s6em to me very inferior, and
the attendants execrable ; and, after one day's so-
journ, I was glad, the following morning, to depart
by steamer to the north end of the lake, keeping
on the left side, for the purpose of communicating
with the various towns on our passage ; it gave
me an opportunity of observing the local trade,
and appearance of the country people, and I was
glad to notice a general appearance of weU-doing,
and the absence of poverty and misery. Here
there are no beggars to importune or annoy you.

In these waters, near to the town of " Platts-
burgh," many severe naval actions took place in
1814, between the Enghsh and Americnri flotillas,

E 2

A GLIMPSE AT THE

in which success fluctuated, being sometimes on
one side, then the other, but at all times attended
with an immense sacrifice of life.

Lake Champlain, or rather that part called the
Broad Lake, is interspersed with a great number
of islands, the largest of which, South Hero, is
fifteen miles in length and foiu* in breadth ; the
soil generally fertile ; the soundings, except at the
narrow parts, are very deep, in many places sixty
and seventy, and, in some, even one hundred, fa-
thoms — equally so in Lake George. On the west
side, as far as Cumberland Bay, the lake is bounded,
for the most part, by steep mountains, close to the
edge of the water ; at Cumberland Bay, the ridge
of mountains runs off to the north-west, and
the shore, farther on, is low and swampy. The
east, or Vermont shore, is not much elevated, the
shores on both sides are very rocky ; where there
are mountains, these rocks jut out very boldly.
The islands, also, generally, are surrounded with
rocks, in some parts shelving down to the lake,
so that it is dangerous to approach within one
or two miles of them at particular sides. There
are many streams which fall into the lake ; the
mouths of all those on the western side, are ob-
structed by falls, so that none of them are navi-
gable. Of those on the eastern or Vermont side,
a few only are navigable for small boats, and that
for a short distance.

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

The scenery along various parts of the lake is
extremely picturescjue, particularly beyond Crown
Point ; the shores ai'c there beautifully ornamented
with hanging woods and rocks, and the mountains
on the western side rise up in ranges one behind
the other in the most magnificent manner. It
was on one of the finest evenings possible that
we passed along this part of the lake, and the sun
setting in all his glory behind the hills, spread the
richest tints over every part of the prospect.

I can only exclaim with the poet —

it-':,;

" Ah ] who can paint
Like nature ? Can imagination boast,
Amidst its gay creation, hues like hers ?
Or can it mix them with that matchless skill,
And lose them in each other, as appears
In every bud that blows ? If fancy, then,
Unequal fails beneath the pleasing task,
Ah ! what shall language do ? " ;

Late in the evening (the 20th of August) the
steamer landed us at the end of the water-com-
munication of Lake Champlain, at a very extra-
ordinary place named " Rouse's Point," within
one mile of the boundary line of the United
States and Canada ; it requires some little detail
to convey to the reader the enormous extent of
bustle, confusion, business and pleasure, all brought
into a focus upon an immense wharf or pier of

A GLIMPSE AT THE

wood, running the length of some hundred feet
into the lake itself. Upon the entu:e length of
this pier, is erected a large hotel, with warehouses
and stores adjoining ; the bed-rooms are in the
higher regions, whilst, underneath, the railway
termini and offices connnunicate with the hotel
on the right wing ; then the steam and other
boats plying alongside either pier, receiving and
discharging merchandize or passengers, add greatly
to the business-like character of the place. Here
the Yankee is in his glory, although the confusion
and noise beat even that of the Broadway, in New
York. This was another occasion on which the
weary traveller had little chance of a night's rest,
surrounded, as he is, by the hissiig of engines,
both from steam and rail, the noises of cranes
and the bustle of hundi*eds of passengers with
their heavy luggage. This lake cannot vie, in a
general point of view, with the lovely Hudson,
which, in addition to its superior scenery, has in-
finitely more active life, more population, and, as
regards shipping, there appeared on the " Cham-
plain " a very nakedness of crafts and boats to
what was seen on the " Hudson."

To prevent detention in passing the boundary
Hne of the two countries, proper officers are ap-
pointed, either in going to Canada or south to the
United States. Your luggage or merchandize is
inspected, and anything coming under the tariff-

UNITED STATES OF AMERIQA, ETC.

laws, chargeable with duty, at once arranged, the
packages properly ticketed, and given in charge to
the luggage-van authorities, so that all t\u*ther inter-
ruption is avoided, and, in passing from one country
to the other, there is, indeed, at lirst, very little
difference observable. In all steamboat or rail-
way traveUing, the Yankees have brought the
arrangements to great perfection, especially as re-
gards the simplicity of the rail carriages, the fares,
the extraordhiary cheapness, and the speed of river
boats, which is almost e(pial to that of the rail. It
cannot, however, be denied that this mode of tran-
sit has its drawbacks, and is occasionally attended
with awful loss of life, more particularly by the
river boats. Since my arrival in these waters, no
less than three magnificent boats have exploded,
and either blown into the au* or scalded to death
near six hundred men, women, and children, entail-
ing unutterable misery and distress. The first
disaster above alluded to, (the "Henry Clay,")
occurred at Yonkers, a village seventeen miles from
the city ; the second, the blowing up of the "Rein-
deer," a magnificent new boat, was midway
between New York and Albany, and the third
happened on the lake " Ontario."

Many and conflicting have been the statements
put forth, as to the causes of these melancholy
occurrences ; some, imputing defect in the machi-
nery, others carelessness. It is much to be feared,

A GLIMPSE AT THE

however, that tlie cause may ])e traced to the bad
materials witli which the boats were built, more
especially the boilers, though the outward appear-
ance would appear to forbid these conjectures. The
Reindeer steamer was a new boat, the belle of the
river ; fortunately, I had just previously to its oc-
currence passed the scene of this disaster, but
witnessed at Albany the arrival of several of the
bodies, returned to their native town in coffins :
much excitement was naturally created. I have
since endeavoured to find out how the law has
grappled with this spreading evil, and what punish-
ment is inflicted on parties, officers, or owners of
steamboats, who may be the in 'mediate cause of
the sacrifice of so many lives, but ^ have not, as yet,
heard of any thing being done to punish the guilty
parties. The glorious uncertainty of the law, and the
administration of it, must account for this ; indeed,
an eminent New York lawyer, with whom I spent
a few days very pleasantly, enlightened my under-
standing much, on the subject of law and justice,
in Ameiica. I was pleased to hear him acknow-
ledge, that he had watched very closely the admi-
nistration of justice in England : he paid a just
tribute to the impartiality of our judges, and the
integrity of the Enghsh Bar, and he honestly ad-
mitted, that a lesson might be advantageously
brought to bear on the young giant.

Lft

F-

2*1

*i i

:U^

' f ■ 'h

.<■>,

tss

UNITED 8TATM OP AMERICA, ETC.

Having conducted the reader to the boundary
line of the United States, as fixed in 1842, by
treaty, negotiated by Lord Ashburton and Mr.
Webster, the next chapter will commence with
Canada.

;

A GLIMPSE AT THE

: ' ,"

1 (
'. i.

CHAPTER V.

St. John's Village and " Laprarie^ — River St. Latcrence.
— Montreal City and Scenery. — Three Great Fires in
1849, 18uOoM(i?1852. — Cathedral and Roman Catholics.
— Hotels. — Quebec and its approach from the River. —
Generals Wolfe and Montcalm. — Plains of Abraham. —
Unsuccessful attempt by Montgomery and Arnold. —
House of Representatives and Lord Elgin. — Papineau,
Mackenzie, and faction. — Grand Scencr^ from the
Citadel and Battery. — Ttespectability and Loyalty of
the Roman Catholic Priesthood. — Trade and Revenue.
— Magnificence and extent of the River St. Lawrence.

Leaving Rouse's Point early in the morning of
21st August, I soon found myself once more under
the British flag, and only two hours' journey from
Montreal in Upper Canada.

From the place of departure, oiu" first stoppage
was at St. John's Village, thence to " Laprarie,"
situated on the banks of the river "St. Lawrence ; "
the country all along was flat and uninteresting,
the first peep, however, of that great stream, the
" St. Lawrence," made amends for this. A small
steamer was in waiting to convey us over to
the west bank of the river, wliicli, at this
point, presented a noble picture : the brilliant
morning sun showed us, in the distance, the
city of Montreal. The houses are large, an(J gre

111

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composed of granite, the cathedral occupying tlie
centre with several small islands on either side of
the river, expanding to a width of nine miles, gave
it more the appearance of a beautiful lake.

Montreal contains no less than forty thousand
^'nhabitants; it is in all respects so diftcrent from the
ities of the United States, resembling more a
European town, that the people of the United
States flock here in large immbers during the
summer months, as it can only be reserved for a
comparative few to visit England, and there see
antiquity displayed in all its various forms and
beauties.

On visiting a place for the first time, I never
neglect proceeding to the most elevated point I
can find in the vicinity, where a panoramic view
may be obtained, and some idea formed of the
extent and beauties of the locality.

A steep hiU at the back of the town afforded
me here an opportunity of irdulging in this pro-
pensity.

Before you, appear the town, the churches, the
monasteries, witli their glittering spires, and the
shipping, reposing in the back-ground, upon the
noble river St. Lawrence ; in the distance, a range
of lofty mountains, which terminates the prospect.
To drive over the high ground is a great treat,
and I was glad to find that this beautiful pano-
ramic landscape has already been done justice to,

, .

I !

i ^

lit >

ri!

:ii

A GLIMPSE AT THE

i ^

IX .

; ^

i'{

by an artist of merit, and that an engraving of it
has been published.

Some Httle drawback to the perfection of
the picture, was occasioned by the great fire
whi ;h took place on the 6th of June last, in the
west and centre wards of the town, when
thousands of persons were rendered houseless.
The majority of the houses were of a more humble
description, still many fine buildings were quite
destroyed, viz. the palace of the Roman Catholic
bishop, the ofiicers' quarters, &c. The cata-
strophe having occurred before the approach of
winter, enabled many to pat themselves into
some sort of position ; immediately after the fire,
marquees, tents, and wigwams were soon erected,
for temporary shelter, and no time was lost in
appealing to the sympathy of the people, both in
England and America, which, it will be recollected
was, as on all similar occasions, nobly responded
to.

In other quarters are to be found ruins, caused
by the fires of the years 1849 and 1850, when
the cathedral itself had a narrow escape ; and it
is not very credilal)le to tiic authorities that the
Government-house, which was razed to the ground
during the civil commotions in 1840, still remains
a heap of ruins. During the fires, the soldiers
were found to be of great service in saving lives
and property, owing to the water-works being

^^^mmmmmm

1 *"

111!

■1

o w

rJi

•iilt'

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out of repaii' at the time, and no water obtainable,
and, but for their aid, the damage must have
been considerably more extensive. ■ '

In all Roman Catholic countries, and this is
essentially a place of that description, as a matter
of course, their churches and cathedrals have
their attractions, thoiigh the religious edifices in
this place, neither within nor without, offer any-
thing worthy of remark. ; ; i:

In all ages-, the embellishment of the sacred
edifices has been a paramount feeling in the minds
of the priests and pious laymen. On the Con-
tinent we see so much that is beautiful and grand,
and in the Brazils, even, much more taste is
bestowed on the religious establishments than is
to be found in Canada, which, however, from its
institution by the French, to the present time,
has had the misfortune to be ruled by several
masters, and visited by much political turmoil,
both of which things operate as a check to
advancement. ■'■''■

The hotels here are conducted on a similar
plan to those in the United States, and are under
the management of Americans. It is reported,
that one of these monster buildings is to be estab-
lished in London, by the late proprietor of the
Irvine house. New York. .^ .

On Monday the 23rd of August, I embarked,
ht 7 p. M. on board one of the Inrge river steamers

' '!

II I

! I'-

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A GLIMPSE AT THE

•.i I

for Quebec; the distance is one hundred and eighty
miles, passing in succession the follo\iing places :
" Varennes," "William Henry," "Port St. Francis,"
"Three Rivers," "St. Anne," " Cape Rouge."

It was as well, for the sake of variety and con-
trast, perhaps, to see how nature looked in her
more sombre attire, and the night journey was
not void of interest; our huge machine nobly
ploughing its way through the briny liquid, pass-
ing occasionally some ships, boats, or rafts, leav-
ing them more slowly to progress in their course :
when descending the stream towards the sea, no
difficulty is felt, but in stemming the strong cur-
rents bound southward towards the lakes, it must
be a task of toil and difficulty. The expense of
the passage by these boats for the entire distance
is only three dollars ; each passenger has either
a separate cabin or a sofa on which to rest his
weary bones. It was my lot, on this occasion, to
have a berth close to the boiler, and I was in a
fry all nipjht, steamed to the very skin, so that
repose was quite hopeless, and it was at least a
week before I recovered my usual condition. At
sunrise I had the opportunity of seeing the
river some little distance above the point of
our destination, which was of more conse-
quence, tliis point being the most interesting,
and very fine as you approach the city of Quebec,
the (ijibraltur of the new world, looking up to

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

the high ground and overlooking the lower part
of the town, with its strong fortifications, the cita-
del towering above all, bristling with cannon, and
the British ensign commanding ; the whole im-
pressing the mind with the importance of a place
" famous in stoiy ;" one of the appendices of the
British crown, and a prize worth fighting for.

One of the first objects to see, on landing at
Quebec, is the ground where Wolfe fought and
conquered, sealing his success by his blood to the
death A monument is erected on the spot where
he died. Looking around, first at the cove where
he landed, surmounted by almost perpendicular
cliffs, then at the plains of Abraham, opened to
the guns of the fortress, and then at the citadel
itself, it would appear almost madness for any
man to have made the attempt to storm such a
place — Wolfe did, and the success of the enter-
prise, though dearly purchased, at once portrayed
the strength of mind and heroism oi the man.
General Montcalm (history states) laughed at the
idea of such an attempt on the part of the British,
and neglected to take ordinary measures of de-
fence ; he, however, endeavoured to retrieve the
day, and was killed in the attempt — what could
a brave man do more ? These two warriors now
lie side by side, under a column erected to their
memory in the public walks. ' ■ ■ ■- " • * -^
. It is well known that the Americans mider

I'l

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it I !

A GLIMPSE AT THE

■ V

Montgomery and Arnold, in 1775, attempted to
surjirise the garrison, but were defeated by a
mere handfid of men.

The high gronnd in the vicinity of the plains
of Abraham, pleased me greatly, and the pano-
ramic view round about is, indeed, grand. It is so
graphically described by Isaac Weld, an old tra-
veller, »vho visited this spot at the close of the
last century, that his language will better convey
an idea of its magnificence than any attempt of
mine. He says : —

" The scenery that is exhibited to the view from
various parts of the upper tovni of Quebec, which
for its grandeur, its beauty, and its diversity sur-
passes all that I have hitherto seen in America, or
indeed many other parts of the globe. In the
variegated expanse that is laid open before you,
stupendous rocks, immense rivers, trackless forests,
and cultivated plains, mountains, lakes, towns,
and villages in turn strike the attention, and the
sens-^s are almost bewildered in contemplating the
vastness of the scene : natiwe is here seen on the
grandest scale ; and it is scarcely possible for the
imagination to paint to itself any thing more sublime
than are the several prospects presented to the
sight of the delighted spectator."

From the battery, but a few yards from the edge
of the precipice, you may look down at once upon
the river, the vessels upon which, as they sail up

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to the wharf before tlie lower town, appear as if
it were comin^^ under your feet. The river itself,
which is between live and six miles wide, and
visible as far as the distant end of the island of
Orleans, where it loses itself amidst the mountains
that bound it on each side, is one of the most
beautiful ol)je(;ts in nature ; and, on a fine still sum-
mer's evening, it often wears the appearance of a
vast mirror, where the varied rich tints of the sky, as
well as the images of the different objects on the
banks, arc seen reflected with inconceivable lustre.

The southern bank of the river, indented fanci-
fully with bays and promontories, remains nearly
in a state of natiu-e, clothed with lofty trees ; but
the opposite shore is thickly covered with houses,
extending along other parts of the river already
mentioned, in one uninterrupted village, seemingly
as far as the eye can reach.
' Beautiful as the irons of the city appear,
when seen at u dis 'ce, they do not seem less
so on I closer inspertioh ; and, in passing through
them, tlic eye is entertained ta th a. most pleasing
variety of fine landscape.

I regret that I diii not obtain a view of the
falls of Montmorenci, as well as of those at
Chandiex, and of other lion «i in the neighbourhood.
I learnt that a party ha(^ just visited the former,
but that, c'viiijj; to the little water passing over
at the time the scene was divested of much of

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its beauty : but, in a casual visit to any country,
it is impossible to encompass all that is desired. ■

I visited the House of Representives, whichLord
Elgin had opened, in person, the day before. Mr.
Mac Kenzic happened to be then occupying the
attention of the house, in the opposition ranks,
one of the old troublesome firebrands, with
Papincau, and others present : their influence,
fortunately, is now on the wane. After plunging
the whole province into civil war : the people have,
at length, been wearied with it. At this moment
they are peaceably disposed, and may be left now
much to self-government. It is singular, but true,
that the most loyal of the inhabitants are the
Roman Catholic priesthood. I have to remark
that, comparing the appearance of this order of
men with the Catholic priests in IVance, Ireland,
and London, I can honestly assert that those in
Canada have a much more prepossessing appear-
ance, and bear the stamp of a superior class. Their
general position and character in the eyes of the
country, bear out this opinion : tlie causes I
leave others to decide. Their influence is very
great among the inhabitants ; and any annexation
movement in favour of the States, would be most
strenuously opposed by them. Their church
revenues are large, and, ever since the French lost
hold of the country, the crown has strictly kept
faith with the old Fi-ench Roman Cathohc

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11

community, in allowing them the same freedom and
protection they always enjoyed — a circumstance
the priest does not lose sight of, and he, I imagine,
rehes more on the powerful arm of the long
existing government, than on any dependance
upon innovation, or the tender mercies of levelling-
republican Jonathan. , ; ,

The seat of government, at the present time, is
held at Quebec, transferred from Montreal. To-
ronto and Kingston will, in their tm'n, have the
benefit of that honour.

The trade of Canada with the United States is
gradually approaching to that with Great Britain,
though the former levy a duty of twenty per cent
on their timber, flom', &c., which, in the mother
country, is admitted free of all duty,
i The local government levy a duty on aU imports,
varying from two to twelve per cent., which yields
a sufficient revenue to defray the colonial disburse-
ments, less the army and navy estimates, which
are defrayed cut of the imperial treasury.

There is, on the banks of the river, a large
accumulation of timber, intended for shipment to
Europe ; this is the most important branch of the
trade of the country.

It was now time to think of returning towards
the south. I had visited the most northern part
contemplated. In looking down from the hills, I
could see the river St. Lawrence losing itself in

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the distance. On the one side, a river running
out of the great artery, " Saguenai," with its ro-
mantic scenery round about, or, if looking to the
north and east, the broad and increasing expanse
of water widening, at length mingling with the
ocean itself.

It is, no doubt, well known to the reader that
this river washes the shores to the extent of two
thousand miles, commencing at ** Lake Superior,"
and that, from its debut into the ocean, large
ships can safely navigate up to a distance of fom
hundred miles, as far as Montreal.

The Mississippi, alone, is her rival river, even
three thousand two hundred miles in length, and
with the Missouri, one thousand three hundred
more, though not so navigable as the first-named
river or the Hudson ; but unlimited time would
be required to expatiate on all I felt and all I
saw in this truly wonderful region. '

I would have varied my return by coach, as I
understood the road between Quebec and Mon-
treal ran close upon the banks of the river St.
Lawrence, through those beautiful little towns and
villages seen to so much advantage from the
water, looking down from elevations, the views
presenting themselves in such exquisite variety ;
but I was obliged, "for time was on the wing,"
to take the steamer once more, and, on my return,
had a better opportunity of seeing the river and

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its extent than when descending it a few days
previously.

The currents are, at various points, so strong,
that the apphcation of steam has been of immense
value on these waters, a benefit, indeed, that it is
impossible to overrate.

; It occupied about twelve hours to arrive at the
pier-head, Montreal. I am now on the direct hne
to the Falls, the mighty Cataracts, which will form
the subject of the next chapter. •

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CPIAPTER VI.

" Lacine" — Mapids — Canal and Steamer, and LaTce of a
thousand Islands. — " Broc}jille " — Eddies and Whirl-
pools, and dijDiculty of Navigation. — " Kingston." —
Lake Ontario. — " Ogdenshiirgh" and Bail Communica-
tion to Boston and Toronto. — Lake Steamers. — "'Huron
Tract " desirahle to Farmers. — Half -pay Officers. —
Niagara Fort and River.— ^''Qucenstown " and '■^Lewis-
tan. — The Cataract. — Iris or Ooat Island. — Pictorial
heauty. — No Artist done justice to the Scenes around. — •
Suspension Bridge — "itr. Chateaubriand^ s " description.
— " Lake Erie." — Hotels. — Departure. — "Osivege." —
" Rochester and Cholera." — " Syracuse." — " TJtica" —
*'■ Erie Canal." — Rail through Forests. — Arrival at
Albany.

In the afternoon of the 28th of August, I quitted
Montreal, per Coach, for " Lacine," a village nine
miles distant, where we embarked on board a small
steamer, en route, for the lakes. This mode of con-
veyance saves time, as, the boat being relieved,
thus far, of her passenger freight, is enabled to
stem the rapids, which are very strong just above
the town, with greater facility.

The rapids prevail for a distance of twelve miles
in this line of route, which, before the apphcation
of steam, rendered the progress of the journey
both laborious and techous : one day now is suffi-
cient to perform that which formerly took a fort-
night to accomphsh.

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ^,TC.

A spacious canal with ton ]o(!ks, tliroiigh which
we passed, has been cut on the bft bnnk parallel
with the river ; the country round about is flat
and uninteresting.

It was a novel feature to see on oiu* right the
the rapids on the St. Lawrence, with vessels and
rafts of timber safely passing downwards, the ve-
locity of their speed indicating the wrath of the
element in which they were encompassed.

Our destination was, in the first instance, to
" Kingston," one hundred and eighty miles south
of the point of our departure. I found the canal
steamer exceedingly well appointed, the accom-
modation good, and the nmnber of passengers not
inconveniently great. Nothing could be more
heavenly than the w^eather, and the warm glow
and crimson hue of the western horizon, bespoke
the morrow to be propitious to om' wishes. In
passing through so many locks, om* progress
was much impeded, having, on one occasion, lost
several hom's by an accident at one of the lock
gates ; we, however, late in the evening, got clear
of them, and om* stout little steamer once more
plunged into the noble broad expanse of waters.
After taking a few houi's rest, early in the morning
we found om'selves in what is called the " Lake of
a Thousand Islands;" these islands are of eveiy
imaginable size, covered with trees, shrubs, and.
rocks peeping from the foliage, some close together,

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A GLIMPSE AT THE

through vv] ich the torrent rushes with fearful ra-
pidity ; at one moment the passage, or channel,
appeared shut up against fm-thcr progress, —
when, on a sudden, an expanded sheet of water
opens upon you : on either bank of gentle elevation,
cottages, and log huts are scattered, the residences
of the emigrant or wood-cutter, clearing away the
forest around hiin ; and, so extensive is the whole
scene, that, although man and his axe have been at
work for upwards of two centuries, it would ap-
pear as if little impression, as yet, had been made.
These beautifid islands extend twenty-five miles in
length and six miles in width ; and, in the vicinity
of " Brockville," the effect is particularly striking.

For hours together, the little steamer appeared
contending agahist what, to an unpractised eye,
would appear insiu-mountable difficulties, and
which, indeed, was quite a new feature in my
travelling experience ; but use and practice, com-
bined with skill and local knowledge, give navi-
gators in these waters such perfect confidence in
the various turnings, and, as it weTe,paf/is through
the eddies and whirlpools, that seldom any serious
disaster is heard of. I could not, however, but re-
flect, that, had the boats' machinery got out of
order, or the boat itself refused the helm, we must
have been dashed against some of the adjacent
rocks, and destruction was inevitable. v

I was quite astonished that such headway could

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be made against the rapids ; but our vessel was
first-rate, very buoyant, and had little, if any,
merchandize on board.

The intricacy and difficulty of this navigation,
doubtless, is the cause that the sin-rounding coun-
try is but thinly inhabited, presenting a very differ-
ent aspect to the animated scene on the Hudson,
or on Lake Champlain.

After clearing this formidable cluster of islands,
which your fancy might lead you to conclude was
the abode of some beautiful nymphs or fairies, we,
once more, got into the broad expanse of waters,
and greeted, for the first time, the magnifirent lake
" Ontario," a sheet of water one hundred and se-
venty miles long and sixty wide : and, on the north-
west shore, Kingston appeared on the margin of
the lake with its fortifications in bold relief. This
town, although of more ancient date than many
of the neighbouring places, does not, in point of
artistical beauty, present anything remarkable. It
has, however, always been an important military
and naval station. Exactly facing you, on the east
side ofthelakD, is the large and increasing town of
" Ogdensburgh," belonging to the United States.
Thcrj is a railway from this place to Burlington,
which extends to Boston and New York, afford-
ing to emigrants an easy mode of transit. The
entire length of rail to the latter place is five
hundred and six miles.

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A GLIMPSE AT THE

Having approached so near to the great object
of attraction, there was no inchicenient to remain
longer than till the following morning at King-
ston, where one of the largo lake steamers, beau-
tifully fitted up, equal, in every respect, to the
Hudson boats, and, under English colours, took
us on board, late in the day, for " Toronto," where
I arrived early the follovving nioniing. This
town is already a large place ; it stands in lati-
tude 40" and longitude 80°, and contains a popu-
lation of about thirty-five thousand persons.

The " Huron" tract of land nms west : — those
well acquainted with the subject say it is the gar-
den of Canada, most eligible as regards the qua-
lity of soil, and having superior water conveyance
for the produce. The climate, also, is very healthy,
and the prevailing westerly winds I lowing over
the lake, which never freezes, temper the rigour
of the frosts and summer heats. A farmer with
a capital of from £300 to £500, could not fail to
do well in this locality. I noticed along the
banks of the river, beyond the town to the left,
numerous snug villas, cottages, &c. backed by an
open country and woods in the distance, princi-
pally, I was told, inhabited by officers in the
army and navy, many having received a grant of
land as an equivalent for their commissions. I
make no doubt they lead a happy and contented
life in the enjoyment of a more generous mode of

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living tlmn in f'^urope. We now enibnrkcd in
another stiiuncr, and protvcdtHl to the fort and
town of " Niagara," at the nioutli of tlic river of
that na!ne. Immediately faein«^ the Eii<;Iish fort,
is one hehl by the Americans, l)oth connnantUng
the entrance, each nation standing as if in sentry
over tlie same spot. We hmded at " Queens-
to\m," facing the American town of " Lewiston,"
a few miles np the river : the drive up a steep
Jiill, passing tlie monument to General Brock,
presented many fine points of view. The space
of an hour brought us to the Clifton Hotel, from
which we looked down upon the wonders of the
falls we had travelled so far to see. Whether the
wind was lidled or in a contrary direction, our
ears were not, at first, greeted with that mighty
sound of falling waters, which, perhaps, the over-
excited imagination had led us to expect.

The Canadian side, on which the Clifton Hotel is
situate, affords, perhaps, the most perfect view of the
entire falls, giving the very breadth and longth of the
millions of tuns of water, in rapid succession, rush-
ing impetuously into the abyss beneath, a depth
of some hundred feet. " Iris Island," commonly
called " Goat's Island," divides the fall into two
unequal parts, which are, however, brought into con-
nection by sundry bridges and several small islands.
Wandering about on this spot, was perfect enchant-
ment. Magnificent trees of oak, ash, maple, pine,

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A GLIMPSE AT THE

and cedar trunks, fallen from age, or the wintry blast,
stretching thei" limbs across the stream, all added
to the agitated turmoil created by the rapids, the
roaring of the great fall, and the murmuring of
the lesser streams. Such a combination of nature's
happiest combinations, if I may use the expression,
can never be obliterated from the memory. It
would be no atfectation to indulge in the most
extravagant eulogium on the wonders of this ex-
traordinary spot, riot to be struck with awe and
admiration at all around, would, indeed, be to
acknowledge yourself either more or less than
Man. The representation, of such a scene, as a
whole, has never yet been attempted by any mor-
tal artist. Sketches of detached parts have been
pubhshed ; but it has, doubtless, been found im-
possible for the pencil to convey to the mind an
adequate representation of this extraordinary re-
gion. I should think, nevertheless, that the
talents and genius of a Turner, a Lee, or a Cres-
wick, would do little short of justice to the pic-
ture. I could have wished to have visited this
enchanted place at the time when the red man
alone communed with the Great Spirit, surrounded
with Indian tribes, or pioneers ; but a town is
springing up on the very edge of the precipice ;
saw mills and hotels, as large as the " Astor," or
" Irvine House" are erected : so that in one step,
from the most perfect artificial existence, you are

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

in a moment plunged into all the magnificence
of nature !

Immediately below the falls, a feiTy is estab-
lished to communicate between the English and
American Continent, and nothing can be easier
or safer than the boats rowed by one waterman.
You must, however, be regardless of the moist
effect of the spray or mist, to which you are sub-
jected in this small open craft. >

Much has been said by nearly every visitor to
the Falls ; nevertheless, I am obstinate enough to
add to the number. Each person contributes ideas,
and expresses feelings and sentiments of his owti,
and so increases the general stock. I shall, how-
ever, dismiss the subject, by quoting a beautiful
passage from the celebrated Chateaubriand, whose
poetical language throws completely into the
shade all other descriptions I have met with. He
says, in approaching the Cataract, —

" We advanced towards Niagara. We were
only about eight or nine leagues distant from it,
when we perceived, in a grove of oaks, the fire
of some savages, who had pitched their camp on
the margin of the rivulet, where we had ourselves
intended to bivouac. All was silence and repose,
save the fall of some withered leaves, the passing
gusts of the night-wind, and the cries of the
screech-owl. In the distance, rose upon the ear
the deep murmur of the Cataract of Niagara,

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A GLIMPSE AT THE

which, in the calmness of night, was prolonged
from desert to desert, and died away in the depths
of the lonely forests " , ;

Then, again, he says, —

" I feel unable to describe the thoughts which
filled my lireast, at the sight of so sublime a spec-
tacle. In the desert of my early existence, I had
been obliged to invent personages, to adorn it. I
drew from my own substance, beings whom I
found not elsewhere, and whom I carried within
me : thus, I have placed the recollections of Atala
and of Rene on the borders of the Cataract of
Niagara, to serve as the expression of its melan-
choly. What is a cascade which falls eternally
within sight of an earth and a sky insensible, to
its grandeur, if human nature is not there with
its misfortunes and its destinies ? To plunge into
this soUtude of water and of mountains, and to
have no one with whom to converse, about the
mighty spectacle ! the waves, the rocks, the woods
for one's-self alone. Give the soul a companion,
and the smiling verdure of the hills, and the frerh
breath of the wave — all will become a source of
rapture. The journey during the day, the repose
sweeter, still, on the approach of night ; the pas-
sage of the waves, the slumber on the moss, will
draw from the heart its deepest emotions of ten-
derness." ., v:« .r... ,,.■.-..., :,^.-,,..v „ .v.; v.v,:. .,-,.-,-....:.„,.=„..

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i'A

"I have seen the cascades of the Alps, and those
of the Pyrenees, — Niagara eclipses them all."

" I contemplated this Cataract, which was
revealed to the old world, not by infinitesimal
travellers, such as I, but by missionaries, who,
seeking God in solitude, threw themselves on
their knees at the sight of some marvel of natm-e,
and received martyrdom, while singing the closing
stanzas of their hymn of admiration."
; Two miles below the Falls, an elegant suspen-
sion bridge, a beautifid span, connects the two
shores; this structure is much admired for its
aerial and hght appearance, thin wire being the
principal material used.

During my stay, I loitered most about "Goat's
Island," preferring the American side as affording
more general amusement and contemplation ; this
hint may- not be thrown aw ay upon any traveller
who may chance to see it. From the high ground
you have a fine view of " Lake Erie," which ex-
tends two hundred and thuty-one miles long and
is seventy miles wide.

When within the hotels, it is remarkable how
Uttle you hear of the Falls, although so close to
them. When the wind is strong in the right di-
rection, the rushing of the waters is more observ-
able ; but on no one occasion, whilst I was there,
did they present anything remarkable, even at
night, when all around was repose. ,,

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At length the hour of departure arrived, and I
bade farewell to this remarkable spot.

" Must I then leave thee, Paradise ! Thus leave
Thee, native soil, these happy walks and shades
Fit haunt of gods, whore I had hope to spend
Quiet, tho' sad, the respite of that day
That must be mortal to us both."

At two P.M., on the 3rd of September, I took
coach for the town of " Lewiston," a beautiful
drive of an horn*, do^vn to the banks of the river,
where a steamer was in readiness to take us once
more on the "Lake Ontario;" our passage lay
easterly, for the port of " Oswego," one hundred
and fifty miles distant, where we arrived at the
unseasonable hour of four a.m., just before day-
break.

Nothing could be more lovely than the weather
during the voyage : a rich autumnal tone of tint
— ^the sun going dovm in great splendour. After
being tossed about so ^uch on the rapids, eddies,
and currents, we appeared to glide softly over the
lake, which was as smooth as glass. Nothing
can exceed the excellent equipment of these lake
steamers, whether American or EngHsh; and,
where a convivial party of friends are travelling
together, it must be the perfection of pastime j
being much left to my own reflections on the
present occasion, my feUow-passengers being gene-

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^\(i

rally reserved and unsociable, it detracted much
from the pleasure of the excursion.

Much has been said of the tints and splendid
sunsets on these lakes, particularly during the fall
of the year. I can bear testimony to its truth :
nothing could exceed the wonderfully rich tone
and effect of Sol dipping into the western world
on the very evening we quitted Niagara. It does
not, however, exceed in splendour that I have
witnessed elsewhere, either in South America, or,
indeed, nearer our own shores — the Mediter-
ranean, or upon the coast of Calabria, among the
islands of " Tromboli " and " Maiitimo," where
the effect is, at least, equally grand. The last-named
sea presents to om' associations much of what is
historical; for, be it remembered, that this sea
washed the shores of the four most mighty empires
of old. The new world, with all its grandeur,
falls short of all classical associations.

We called at " Rochester," a large town, but
having been visited by the cholera, which was
still prevailing, we did not land there, but pro-
ceeded on to " Oswego," a town of great promise,
but which presented nothing remarkable beyond
tue immense stores, indicating great commercial
activity. The branch rail to Syracuse enabled me
to join the main branch to " Utica," a large flou-
rishing town, having the famous Erie Canal in

1 f

A GLIMPSE AT THE <),

■■-i

the very centre.* All seemed bustle. A ramble
through the principal thoroughfare gave me a suf-
ficient idea of the spot, anu, after satisfying the
craving of nature (for the wear and tear of the
animal man is great, and nmst be gratified), re-
sumed my journey per rail, and arrived, after a
good day's travelling, at Albany for the night.

I should have selected another course on my re-
turn, but, when I left Niagara, the cholera was
raging at Buffalo and other places which lay in
my intended line of route.

The country which was passed, with the Erie
Canal in view as far as Albany, appeared open ;
forest land, in every direction, giving way to the
axe. We passed, occasionally, through a dense
wood, crossing rustic bridges where the brooks or
streams intersected, and stations are roughly built
up, over an extent of two hundred miles of new
country, but thinly populated ; no people but the
Americans could have made such progress ; they
have, however, all the materials at hand excepting
iron rail. The average expense for a single line
of rail is only five to six thousand pounds per

• Erie Canal is 363 miles long, with a lockage of 688
feet — eighty-four locks in numher, ninety feet in length by
fifteen wide, with a draught of four feet of water (vessels
can carry 700 barrels of flour), and connecting Lake Erie
with the Hudson.

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

mile. I noticed no tunnels, aqueducts, or via-
ducts, the rail running over a flat surface.

For some time we had the old Mohawk in view,
winding its way inrough the valley of that name.
Travelling amidst the forest trees so great a dis-
tance, is, from its novelty, somewhat interesting.

After an exciting days' journey, we arrived once
more in Albany. Shunning the noisy part of the
town, I put up at an excellent house on the hill,
and was glad of two days' quiet to arrange and note
in my journal the many events which the bustle
or excitement of the moment had hitherto pre-
vented me committing to paper.

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100

A GLIMPSE AT THE

CHAPTER VII.

" Francis STciday,^^ river Steamer. — "Return to New York
City. — Omnibuses described. — National Pictures. —
XAterature — Eur&pean Boohs repnnted. — Punch and
Illustrated London News. — Native Talent, its deficiency.
— Prints, Sfc. — Result of Great Britain's Colonization.
— Departure by "Arctic,'" Steamer, to Liverpool, and
description of her. — Canard and Collings's line of
Mail-boats. — Testimony to Capt. Luce, and the OJ/icers
and crew of the " Arctic." — Arrived safe, the last day
experienced a gale of wind. — Parting words.

Once more on the Hudson, en route to New
York, at seven a.m. on the 7th of September, I
found myself on board the splendid and well-ap-
pointed steamer, the "Francis Skiddey." This
boat, measuring in length three hundred and
twenty-five feet, draws five leet and a half water ;
•depth of hold ten feet; can accommodate five
thousand persons (having four decks). She has a
pair of beam engines of sixteen hundred horse
power collectively; diameter of paddle-wheels
forty feet; width of deck thirty-nine feet; in-
cluding paddles, sixty-three feet. The cost of her
engines 50,000 doUars, and the boat itself 1 04,000 :
total 154»000 dollars. The engines are worked at
a high-pressure; the speed obtained is about eigh-
teen miles an hour. The saloons are most elegantly

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

101

fitted up, and snrroimdcd with mirrors — orna-
ments which are also common at tlie hotels, and
appear necessary to feed the vanity of the natives,
who are eternally nsiug them. The tables of the
steamer are most liberally supplied, the attend-
ance good, and charges exceedingly moderate.
There is the bar or tap, where you can luxu-
riate in sherry oobblcr, mint julep, &c. There is
also a piano-forte on board for the general use of
the company if vcu could divest yourself of the
idea of being on ship-board at night — though the
accommodation is excellent — you might imagine
yourself in a first-rate hotel. You cannot pos-
sibly find fault with good eating and drinking ;
and, on board the "Francis Skiddey," there was
abundance for tliose whose stomachs bore feelings
reciprocal with their appetites.

On our way down the river, the same scenery
presented itself as I have already described, — if
possible, the points of view were even more glorious
than when ascending. On arriving at New York, it
was found that the heat had, happily, moderated
since I quitted the city ; such, however, was the
immense influx of visitors, that I had some diffi-
culty in getting housed for the night. At the
fall of the year, thousands of persons visit this em-
porium of the United States, principally for com-
mercial purposes, and to supply the demand of
the numerous towns and villages throughout this

a-'

102

A GLIMPSE AT TH£

vast continent; at the same time, it gives the
family of the merchant or trader an opportunity
of making a holiday, and of spending any dollars
they can coax out of Papa-Jonathan's pockets to
the best advantage at the pretty shops, which is
all good for trade. This is the season, too, when
European talent is generally brought forward
amongst others, Jenny Lind or Madame Sontag
the latter was all the rage this autumn, and greatly
astonished those Yankees who in gaping wonder-
ment abound. M. Jullien was expected, with his
monster band, and he is the man who will pocket
a few of their cents, " I calculate."

In alluding, in my second chapter, to the num-
ber of omnibuses that daily pass through Broad-
way, I omitted to mention that they are most
elegantly painted, many of them quite Uke a
moveable tableaux ; Italian scenes, ruins, nymphs
bathing, &c. Pictures, however, exhibiting military
exploits, in which the English are represented as
being defeated by the Americans, I must confess,
recalled painful lecollections to my mind ; they
seemed to say we " Calculate you Britishers were
tamationly well licked." Bunker's Hill's bloody
fight I saw depicted on a new 'Brss ; Lexington
on another, and also Genej'al Burgoyne, with his
veterans, seven thousand strong, surrendering to
the country people under General Gates, as if
they could not help it ! At the hotels (for I always

UNITED STATES Of AMERICA, ETC.

103

observe the vulgar prncticc of walking round the
room, and looking at tlu; pictures, na if I liad
never seen one before) — pictures of the War of
Independence are the most general and interest-
ing exhibited ; subjects select<'(l, of com'se, in
accordance with the national vanity, that, really,
there is some excuse for the great conceit, the
austere and solenm nuuuu rism of these Republi-
cans — casting up their eyes, and contemplating
these subjects as they inwardly exclaim — "The
English have concpiered the old world, but, then,
we have * done the deed,' — wc have, I guess, well
licked them."

Indeed, they lose no oi)i)ortunity of showing
their conceit and bad taste in this respect.
' The progress of knowledge may, in time, obli-
terate this conceited weakness from the national
character of the Americans ; at present, they have
but little native tal{}nt to take the lead in the work
of mental reformation, although they may boast of
their Prcscot and a few others. It is true, they
are adopting the best means of cvdtivating and
improving the national taste, by the introduction
of ahnost every work that issues from the press in
England, France, and Germany, which they re-
print in a nmcli cheaper form. All the principal
Magazines and monthly reviews, which are pub-
lished in England at two-and-sixpence, they sell
for one shilling each — alike regardless of any in-

104

A GLIMPSE AT THE

ternational law for the protection of copyright or
the brains of the author ! They are, also, miser-
ably behind Europe in their daily newspapers,
and the extremely low prices at which they are
published is no compensation for the absence of
talent, or even ordinary attainments j and as for
the tyiKj, it is wretched !

They have made many unsuccessful attempts to
bring out works hke "Punch, * and "The Illus-
trated London News," and, in the absence of na-
tive artists, the circulation of these celebrated pub-
lications through the United States is immense !
Their principal periodical is called " Harper's New
Monthly ;" it is full of illustrations, well got up,
but most of the designs are pirated from English
works, for instance the Etching Club's illustrations
of Goldsmith, Milton, and other authors, but no
names are traceable on the drawings, so the
natives are left to flatter themselves, and exult in
their original productions !

The United States are quite right to improve
their tasie, and circulate good books and pictures,
and at a cheap rate ; but, in all honesty, it is only
fair, when a thing is not original, to give the real
author the merit of it !

The time has arrived when I must say farewell
to the land of the young giant. I depart with a
lively recollection of what I have seen — ^it is very
improbable that I shall ever again see so much

qn^^mMH

mmmm

(

I '

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC. 105

that is grand and magnificent in natu;e ; and I
feel I shall, from having visited this country, take a
more lively interest in the future success of
so great a republic. Other countries commenced
in colonization, long before Great Britain, — for
instance, Spain, Portugal, France, and Holland;
but vi^here are they, and what has been their des-
tiny ? Can they for one mome^it compare with
what England has done ?

The spirit of her laws, constitution, and, more
particularly, her Protestant faith, show that the
finger of Providence has been upon her above all
other nations on earth ; and the Americans have
only to reflect, that much of their greatness and
increasing prosperity can be traced to a first cause,
the Fatherland of the United States, England; for,
although all parts of the earth have been pouring
in their thousands upon thousands of emigrants,
the great characteristic of the American peojjle is
Anglo-Saxon. Brother Jonathan, once more fare-
well !

At noon, 18th Septeuiber, embarked on board
the American steamer " Arctic," bound for Liver-
pool. We departed amidst the cheers of a large
concourse of people, who had collected at the pier-
head, to bid " God-speed'' to about two hundred
persons, on their way to various parts of the old
world : champagne flew abou* in profusion, drink-
ing "health and safe passage," &c., across the
Atlantic.

106

A GLIMPSE AT THE

Most people have heard of the two Hnes of
steamers that maintain a regular communication
between Europe and America, making the voyages
almost to a certainty, in about ten days, from port
to port. First, Cunard's line, so called (British
ShipsV— "Asia," "Europa," "Canada," "Africa,"
" America," " Niagara," ** Arabia," and "Persia,"
(the last three not quite completed); these are
splendid boats. Secondly, Collins's line, (under
the American flag,) viz., — "Baltic," " Atlantic,"
" Pacific," and " Arctic," all noble ships of large
dimensions.

' There are other steamers that ply to Havre
and Bremen, owned by Americans, as, also, to
Glasgow, from Philadelphia ; but the two above-
named companies are the most efficient and swift,
and most patronized. The liners and other craft
form, also, a very important addition to the com-
munication, so much so, that letters by the mails
between the two hemispheres, arrive every other
day.

The " Arctic " is considered a fair specimen of
these noble steamers; she was built by W. Brown,
of New York, of American live oak, locus, and
pine.

The machinery was, also, manufactured in New
York, with iron from the state of Jersey, by Still-
man and Allen, and her complement of engineers,
stokers, and firemen, amounted to fifty-six.

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC. 107

Her saloon is most elegantly fitted up, with
holly-wood, satin, rose, and oak, accommodating
upwards of two hundred persons, having waiters,
steward, cooks, &c., amounting to fifty-three per-
sons, and the crew, including ofiicers, to thirty-
four in number. ^^ ? - ( ^ ^

She is propelled by two engines, of one thou-
sand horse power each, weighing eight hundred
tons, stowing twelve hundred tons of coals, and
eighteen hundred tons of cargo, altogether, near-
ly three thousand tons register, consuming eacli
voyage, as much as five of our collier ships' cargo
•of coals, about ninety tons every twenty-four
hours. She measures three hundred feet by forty-
six, including paddles, seventy-six.

Revolutions of wheels, sixteen turns in the
minute. During the entire voyage her machinery
was not once out of order.

For our passage we paid one hundred and
twenty dollars each, and five dollars to the steward
— about £25 ^sterling, British, exclusive oi wine
and spirits, which are procured on board, of fair
quality, and at moderate prices, making the ex-
penses about fifty shillings joer diem, which though
rather a startling, is not an exorbitant sum. La
carte was each day presented for breakfast and
dinner — such a variety of good things, that the
reader might imagine himself enjoying a good
dinner at Freemasons' HaU or the London Tavern

108

A GLIMPSE AT THE

(not omitting Messrs. Birch's turtle) • but it is a
question whether the health is benefited by so
much luxury : on the contrary, it is apt to inter-
fere with the good effects generally produced on
the health and strength by a sea voyage.

After such a voyage as I have described in the
first chapter, a change like this was most gratify-
ing, for I found that Captain Luce and his
officers were first-rate seamen and gentlemen, and
the sailors themselves respectable, well-behaved
the passengers were chiefly of the middle

men

ranks of society. Good breeding was evident,
and good fellowship prevailed throughout the *
voyage, which, though rough, with a head wind
all the way, causing us some discomfort, was,
on the whole, a favourable one, and performed
within twenty-four hours of the allotted time.

"The waves of the Atlantic Ocean," says a
writer of the fifteenth century, "although they
roll as high as mountains, yet maintain them-
selves without breaking ; for, if ^hey broke, it
would be impossible for the ship to plough them."
Om* noble ship did plough them, and passed over
the billoAvs as buoyantly as if resolved that nought
should resist or interrupt her career !

Nine days after losing sight of the American
continent, we caught a glimpse of the south coast
of Ireland, off Cape Clear. A dreadfully stormy
night it was. After om- arrival at Liverpool we

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, ETC.

109

found that the gale had done much damage —
many wrecks, with loss of life, had occurred.

To the good seamanship displayed in the hand-
Ung of our first-rate vessel, we are indebted, under
Providence, for our own safety.

At length, on the 30th of September, we
anchored in the Mersey, being under eleven days'
run from New York, and, on the passengers leaving
the ship, I beheve one and all joined in giving a
grateful and hearty farewell cheer to the magnifi-
cent "Arctic" and her ship's company. Thus
ended the adventures of a short cruise in the yeai
1852.

Having now, as I trust, fulfiUed the promises,
which, in my preface, I ventured to make, I thank
my friends, readers, and, subscribers for their kind
support, and, sincerely wishing them all the bless-
ings of a new and happy year, / take my have.

»■ I

THE END.

CHARLSS SKIPPEB AND BAST, PBINTEftS, ST. DVKaTAW'f HILL.