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ML- i. jai

BY OCFAX. 1>R.\1RIK, AND PEAK

-■▼f

FA^ OCEAN

PRAIRIl

AM)

PEAK

SOMK riLKAXINCS FROM

A\ r.Mir.UANT CIIAI'LAIN'S I/u;, ON jOURXFAS

TO I'.RITISII COLIIMIUA, MAXITOR.A, AND

KASTKKN CANADA.

AEICXAXDI'.R A. I'^ODDV, I'.R.G.S.

\ K \K n|. AM- SAINTS, MONKUKAKMOrTII ;

AITIIOK (ir
" nir I \vi\i; nv oi hwh"".: a lurir ni;i>i\ \\< i." ri<'.

O
y.

(iitlith iVlap iiu^ 3llu«?ti'aliou'?.

PI'RI.I«?I!F.n lA'DFR TIIF. IHRF.rTTON OF TIIF r.FNF.RAf,
irrFKATFRF rOMMITIFI..

T,nxnox:

SOCIF/IY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGF.
NnUTIIl'Mm-.IU.ANn AVFNUF, fllARlNr, CROSS, W.C. ;

43, (.irHFN Vlf tOKMA STIJP.ET, V .C.

DRlCilITON: T79, N'OUTii STurET.
New Vokk: K. & J. H. V O U X C ."l CO.

1896.

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Pacific N.W. History Dept

PROVINCIAL. LIBRARY
VICTORIA, B. C.

I'IST Ol- li.LUSTKATlONS

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The incessant strain to body, soul, and spirit oi
a populous parish, and the constant facing of sorrow
and sin, would cause a breakdown if there were not
pauses. These pauses — never very long — have from
time to time been filled with diverse experiences.

CANADIAN PACIFIC RAIL-WAV

ANn ITS OOMNCC:TION9.

r ION 3.

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^.1

BY OCEAN, PRAIRIE, AND PEAK

CHAPTER I

From the North Sl:a to the Atlantic

Ocean

In a smokc-bcatcn vicarage, a few hundred
yards back from the grey North Sea, emigrants
have had farewell talks before starting for new
homes in the Far West.

The clatter-clatter of a hundred hammers m the
ship-yards of the Wear are faintly heard, and the
deep thud-thud of a huge steam-hammer merci-
lessly shakes that home by night and by day.
Yet, when all is still with a Sabbath stillness, the
«' call'"' of the tide can at times be heard, and the
echoing boom of incoming steamers signalling as
they enter the harbour or pass up the Wear.

The incessant strain to body, soul, and spirit of
a populous parish, and the constant facing of sorrow
and sin, would cause a breakdown if there were not
pauses. These pauses— never very long— have from
tims to time been filled with diverse experiences.

J«f^»"

\;\ (i( i:\\. rKAikii . and ri;AK

Parishioners liavc protested that they were not
true hoh'days. At all events they were a change
of scene and work.

A piled-iip vehicle leaves that vicarage by the
North Sea. Here are some of the iiiipcdiuicuta : —
Magic-lantern and sets of slides, oilskins, sea-
boots, sou'-wester, hymn-books, prayer-books, tracts,
robes for Sunday services, pocket Communion
Service, pledge-book, illustrated papers, etc., etc.

Important interviews take place at Liverpool with
Mr. leaker of that great Trans-Continental Route
the C.P.R. (Canadian Pacific Railway), and also
with Mr. Dyke, the representative of the Canadian
Government in its emigration work ; and lastly with
the Rev^ J. Ihidger or some of his clerical assist-
ants, who are to be found in the vestry beneath
that quaint tower of St. Nicholas Church which
looks out over the Mersey: these occupy usefully
some of our time, and then wc are ready to sail.

I do not relate the latest voyage across, but
one which was more full of interest; weaving into
it incidents and information from earlier and later
experiences.

It is often wise to be in Liverpool the night
before starting. Trains may be delayed, and it
would be a very serious thing in some cases to miss
the ship. Lime Street Station Hotel (L. & N.W.)
has some fairly cheap bedrooms suitable for saloon
and better-class intermediate passengers. I wished
to find out about the accommodation for steerage
folk also.

On arriving at Liverpool, at ten p.m., I heard a
voice —

I'KOM Xok'lll Si:.\ I'o ATI, .writ OCl'.AX

" Are you the Reverend Mr. Kockly, sir?"
Tlien the questioner conducted me away to the
IMiihidelphia Temi)erance Hotel, 28, Hunter Street.
He said on the way —

'•' I'erhaps you require a first-chiss liotel, sir ? "'
" No," I replied ; " if your place is only clean 1
shall be all ric^ht. I want to see what accommoda-
tion there is for emigrants in Liverpool."

I had no reason to regret my choice. Mr. l^ewis
and his maiden sisters and a brother keep this place
clean and without pretension, and my bill next day,
for supper, bed, and breakfast, only came to ^s. C)d.
About 1 50 people a week pass through their liands,
going on board the steamers for America and
Canada.

lUisy Liverpool ! Smart Ajlk and hurrymg folk.
The black negro, the yellow Chinee, the bright-
eyed Hindoo, the flaxen -haired Scandinavian,
and the greasy Tolish Jew are all seen in its
streets.

■ Crowds of emigrants, with cumbersome luggage,
arrive by train. They march through the streets
behind great carts on which are piled their boxes.
Some make their way to St. Nicholas Church, and
ask for Mr. Bridger or his clerical assistants, 'i'hey
give him a letter that their clergyman has written,
and he asks them where they are going. Then he
fills up a card to give to the Church clergyman of
their future parish in the West, and writes a post-
card to the latter forthwith, to tell him that Mr.
and Mrs. Johnson and family are coming to settle
in his neighbourhood, and asking him to do all he
can for them spiritually and temporally.

\',\ OC'KAX, I'KAIRIE, AND PEAK

Sometimes the passengers go on board at the
Prince's hmding-stage, but more often at the Alex-
andra docks. This latter method means extra
expense for emigrants in cartage, and five shillings
for cab.

On Thursday evening, May 8, the R.M.S. Vd/i-
cv/zw/' was in dire confusion. She had been delayed-
on her homeward passage by fog, and hatl not had
sufficient time to disgorge one cargo iind thoroughly
to digest another. The harsh song of the donkey-
engine rose and rattled through the evening air.
The decks were confusedly crowded with pas-
sengers and friends. It was little use conjecturing
who were passengers until the friends went ashore.
The chaplain knelt in his little state-room and
asked his MASTER to make use of him on the
voyage ; to open many doors ; to point him to
Christian helpers ; and to bless the ship.

We sat down to dinner about nine o'clock, still,
however, in the docks — a str-^'^ge sensation, ac-
customed as one was to dining at sea in the same
saloon.

After midnight (Friday, May 9), the I'ancouvcr
slowly worked her way out, between long lines of
lamps stretching out on all sides along the quays,
and at last we passed through the g:'tes and into
the channel, and so the voyage commenced. We
had Evening Prayer in the intermediate before
turning in, and commended ourselves and all on
the ship to the Father's care.

At breakfast-time we were passing the Chicken
Rocks and the Calf of Man. The Isle of Man was
looking its noblest, as the huge rocks and cliffs

1 at the
e Alex-
s extra
shillings

S. y^u-

delayed"

not had

roughly

Jonkcy-

ing air.

th pas-

!cturing

ashore.

)m and

on the

him to

:k-, still,
ion, ac-
le same

ncouvcr

ines of

quays,

id into

P. We

before

all on

hicken
an was
1 cliffs

FkO.Nr NORTH SKA 10 ATLANTU' OCKAX II

lifted their heads from the blue waters tumbling
and tossing about their feet. When wc looked out
an hour or two later, the whole western side of the
Isle lay behind us, and soon Suae fell and all the
other hills sank beneath the horizon.

A few hours later we passed between Stran-
raer (Scotland) and the Irish coast near Larne.
We skirt the Irish shore, and pass between T'air
Head and Rathhn Island. Kathlin Island (or
Raghery) is just five miles from the Antrim coast,
and its bold outlines rise to the north. The hills
seem to be a continuation of the mountains on the
mainland. Every one who was well enough came
out to look up at the rugged heights and organ-pipe
rocks high above us on the mainland. The Giant's
Causeway was just beyond the next headland, and
the structure of rock is similar.

I could, in fancy, see St. Columba in his boat
with his followers sailing over the blue tossing
waves to yonder Scottish islets, while we in
modern days carry his Gospel in a huge Atlantic
steamer of 5,600 tons. I low altered arc circum-
stances 1 Columba did not then dream of the great
continent to which we are hurrying. Whilst coast-
ing along smoothly and calmly, we held our first
open-air service on the after bulkhead. My text
was St. Luke XV. 13 : " He took his Jour ncy into afar
country.'*

We passed in the afternoon up Lough Foyle to
Moville (Moughal), and saw the ruins and castle,
the churches and white houses, all brilliant in the
mellow sunlight. While waiting for the steam-tug
from Londonderry, bringing mails and passengers,

i;\ <)< KAN, I'KAIKIi:, AM) I'liAK

various cntcrtainitiL;" natives of " oukl Ireland"
boarded the ship and sold blackthorn shillela<;hs,
or played the fiddle. i/\t last the steam-tug arrived
and the mail-bai^s were "rushed" on board — a
tremendous business always.

We steamed out of the Lough, and later on at
midnight, having left Tory Island Light behind, we
passed out into the North Atlantic. Very soon we
experienced disagreeable weather.

Ireland"
iillcla<;h.s,
1^^ arrived
board — a

ter on at

-;liind,\vc

soon we

■'S

CHAPTER 11
A Chaplain's Lifk in Mid-Atlantic

A CHAPLAIN should neither be sea-sick, indolent,
nor devoted to the company of the saloon passenc^ers.
There is plenty to do for an earnest man, and
special opportunities to be seized and used for
time and eternity.

A chaplain's day.

A great pile of GwphicSy Good Words, CIntrcJi
IkllSy etc., in my cabin is daily diminishinir, as I
go on my rounds giving sick and whole something
to interest them and to pass the monotonous hours.
I go forward first to the men's steerage, then aft
to the families and women's quarters, and h'sten to
their complaints and endeavour to put things right.
It is certainly better for the emigrants to travel on
a ship where a recognized chaplain is carried, for
he can act at times as a mediator.

This afternoon (being fine) we had a service on
deck. I stood on a bulkhead, while all the able
folk stood around, or sat wlierever they could.

" Almigluy Father, hear our cry,
As o'er die trackless deep we roam.''

A strange scene to look upon. The eager faces of
country-folk, a scattering of men belonging to the

r.V OCKAN, rRAIKTi:. .WD VV..\K

I !

ship, some saloon passengers, and the flaxen-lialred
Scandinavians. All bowed their heads when 1
offered up prayer, all who could sauLj very heartily,
and the roll of men's voices went skywards. While
I was speakiuL,^, the great vessel was speeding on
through the great waves of the blue Atlantic ; in
the distance an occasional whale was blowing.
Another hymn, and we closed with the Benediction.
This was at three in the afternoon, cold but bright.

Curiously enough a can of tar fell from the mast
above mc while I was speaking, and just grazed my
head. The sharp edge would have been too much
for the chaplain's skull if it had struck that, for it fell
at least lOo feet from where a sailor was tarring the
ropes. Every one but the chaplain realized that
the service was v^ry nearly concluded abruptly,
and the chaplain's services entirely dispensed with.

In the evening I exhibited dissolving views in
the aft steerage to a mixed crowd. My pictures
that night illustrated a voyage across the Atlantic
to New York, thence to Niagara and Montreal.

now WE SPENT OUR FIRST SUNDAY.
T issued this notice on Saturday —

SERVICES ON SUNDAY.

The Chaplain will hold the following services
(wcadicr, etc., permitting) :—

7 a.m. — The Holy Communion (in Library).
JO. 30 a.m. — Morning Service (Saloon).
3 p.m. — Evening Prayer and Sermon (In-
termediate).

ii-hufrccl
\vlieii 1
'icartily,

While
^ing on
itic; in
'lowincf.
diction,
bright.
le mast
^ed my
) much
r it fell
ng the
d that

-Liptl)',

I with.
)\vs in
ctiircs
lantic
il.

HOW \\v. srr.NT ouk first sund.w 15

Heavy rolh'ng seas this day tliiniicd all our
services, for people were nearly all very ill.

I turned out at six and arranc;cd the room for
our Early Celebration. 'I'his most helpful of all
services was carried forward under great difficulties
as the huge waves caught the vessel, causing her
to oscillate. Only three young men were able to
join me, owing to general illness. The swishing of
waves, the rattle of chains, the hurrying of sailors
summoned by the boatswain's whistle, the ringing
of ship's bells, mingled with the voice of the
chaplain and the earnest responses of the " two or
three gathered together in N/s name." Yet wc
lifted up our hearts unto the LORD; it was a true

At 10.30 we had morning service in the large
saloon. A reading-desk was rigged up, the
chaplain was in his robes, and was supported by
a young friend as organist, or rather pianist. The
captain read the lessons, and an impromptu choir
of young men sang out with great heartiness. The
offertory was given to the Sailors' Orphanage at
Liverpool. Intermediate and steerage passengers
were permitted to join us, but the heavy weather
prevented every lady from being present.

At three p.m. we had a hearty service in the
intermediate. Well attended ; two lady passengers
able to come ; others in the cabins round opened
their doors and listened, though too ill to join in.

FIVE LANGUAGES AND THE LANTERN.
In the steerage at eight p.m., for the bcncllt of

I "i

"■ ""■■^^■' '''<'<": ^N-.. n;K

ciialccts t„o. -^ ^-'- '""' ""-' -''canclinavian

All my clcscn'i)(ioi,o .,,„i , ,

". j':",^i'.si,, the! g: " ,:'; "^•^'^.^ r- -^po'-n

one joined Willi „ic ,■„ ,,, , ' ""^ '•'"il every

each one "in h ' ? '''^■'"■'^' ""-' I-Oia,'s 1',-aver

^" the wh S- 5;;j;":f r""^"" '^^ "- "^oTn -

b"t the fact of UcZ^llu-'T? "'^"'^"dously,
and all eyes fi.ed 'I ' , ',f '"^■"S ■•" ^'arkness
i>o'ped them to klctZi^ ' '""linated picture
Tlu,,s ended a ve^ ha'l'™"'^ -^'^ '"°'- ■-'>^'>iie.

S-^- thanlced me ::^r!;7rhrorS •^"•' '''''"''
The Scandinavian countn4 r f ,"";;"""-pi-etcr.
and shakintj my Inn, -l . '°"'' "^^ ''"^h- hats

.-. '^y Hand, icpeatcd, " Tak, Tak."

ROUND Ti/i-: sirrp.
mndny. May i-._Ton ,. ,
any services, so I oc"ct,n cT Tf '""^''^ '° '>"'d
passengers in the d' fe „ . r '" ^'"^^ ^''^

The children • -, , '^"^'^ Pa«s of the ship (,\

'1= ^cfu;:\v,:,.;rfr:a7 ^f-'-^-^.-

friendless children The. '^•^'^'^H'^nt work for
of Mr. Boyd. T?ev l^\ "" ""'''^'- "'^ charge

foreigners ; chiefly Sc-m i;, • '■■'-''• ^3) The
Swedish Bibles and N w t:'?''- ' '''■"' -"'^
(4) Single men, forS . ^ '^'^'"'-''"^ fo'' them.

'"'"aid, some good fel!„„„

UOLM) Till. Slifi'

itcri).
1 aiitl

amoiij^st

very
i)'cr
)rn."
tsly,
ics.s,
Lire,

3od
tcr.
Us.

'Id Kh^

Id
ic

thciii. ('5) Scaiidinavian siiirjlc men,
(luitc a large number. (^6) l^'riends in tlic inter-
mediate. (7) In tlie saloon. (8) Talks with
sailors, stewards, etc.

1 was able to give advice as to the journey, etc.,
and often we naturally a[)i)r()ached more iiiii)()rtant
subjects. I had a good suppl)- of papers and
books, owing to the kindness of those who re-
sponded to my recjuest for literature for the
emigrants. The weary monotony of the never-
ending pitching and rolling was made very bearable
by the kindness of our ICnglish friends who sent
these papers.

I brought my Temperance Pledge - book with
mc, and was enabled to get several signatures,
including one from a poor stowaway, whose wretched
appearance and condition would have softened a
very stony heart.

I am never satisfied with the accommodation for
married people in the steerage. Two or three sets
of married people are put in one .section or cabin.
This leads to sin, I am sure. T^ach family should
be absolutely isolated. There is sad laxity as to
morals and self-respect in these c[uartcrs, where
for more than a week together men and women
have no real pri"'i^y. The male stewards should
be kept out of those cabins where the women are.

A IIURRK ANE.

On Monday afternoon, May 12, tne officers were
surprised to notice the barometer suddenly go
down in a phenomenal manner unknown in the

15Y OCKAN, I'kAIUir., ANI) TKAK

month of May. Sail was quickly taken in, antl
for a while it w.is hoped that we had passed to the
north of the anti-cyclonic si)here of action, liut it
came down upon us in real earnest.

Through the night it raged, and everything
movable went from side to side — portmanteaux,
etc., in the cabin, pounding backwards and for-
wards ; parcels stored overhead came thundering
down, and man)- folk spent a night of misery a'.J
fear. 1 slept more or less, feeling that I could be
of no use. It was most difficult to dress in the
morning amidst sliding luggage, water splashing
over from the basin, and the porthole first in the
waves and then looking up into the sky. One
heavier roll than usual after the breakfast had been
laid caused all the dishes to jump bodily over the
" fiddles," and to slide with a crash along the floor.
About ;^20 worth of plates, cups and saucers, etc.,
a steward told me, were smashed.

THE DOCTOR BUSY.

Some of the casualties during the hurricane of
May 12 and 13 —

1 . A seaman thrown across the vessel some twenty
feet, and head and face badly crushed and cut.

2. A stewardess' arm broken, she was thrown
down the " companion."

3. Steward flung across deck, leg injured.

4. Another steward stunned, and scalp cut.

5. A passenger (a fine old Roman priest) had a
handsome r.osc temporarily disfigured.

6. Chaplain crossing spar-deck pitched down to

K\A

KSCAI'i; lkn\| AS n I i;l k(.

1'^

ii and
to the
^it It

for-

rails. Deck hcclin^^ over to mure than 45 .

One oDcrht to be thankful for a bruiscil back

under the circumstances.
The most accomplished artist woultl fnid it
difficult to picture the sublime i;randcur o( that
terrific scene. I stood for an hour or so on the
llviuLr bridjic with the officers on watch. We had
to hold on all the time. Spray swept over every-
thinfj. The funnels were whitened up to the very
top. Looking down on the Ljreat vessel rolling
her bulwarks under, she looked amidst the L;reat
hills of crystal foam like a small boat.

The decks were deserted ; not a passenger to be
seen ; no one but the man at the wheel, almost
hidden behind a weather-cloth. Occasionally an
unfortunate fireman ran aft, holding on to the
safety rope. In my rounds I got a soaking as a
Niagara burst over the bows. Holding on to the
ropes, the water poured u[) my sleeves.

The amount of concentrated misery out of sight
below those decks was dreadful in (piantity and
quality.

KscAi'i; FROM AX u;i':i!i:k( i.

God's Fatherly hand was ever over us on this
voyage. Three times preserved from danger.
Vkst the hurricane, now the second time delivered
from collision with an icy monster. I had just
come on deck when the sailor in the bows shouted,
*• Ice right ahead." Out from the mist seemed to
rush the form of an ugly berg as large as our ship.

The second officer dashed at the cnirinc-room
signal and the propeller was stopped. The quarter-

I I

r.v 0(i:.\>'. I'kAiKii", and im.ak

! 'I'll

master obeyed the order, " Hard a-starboard," and
the helm being put hard over, the great vessel
turned slowly an^' 'vc just shaved i)ast, our waves
swMshing up the side of the ice. Then we breathed
freely. \\'e ought to have been deeply thankful
for our escape.

There seemed to be no bears on the great ice-
berg, which was disappointing to some children
who had seen pictures of icebergs with the in-
variable Polar bears licking their paws. On seeing
an iceberg the children at once said, " But where are
the bears .^ The icebergs in our picture-books always
have bears on them, and sometimes cubs too."

Soon after we " lay to," and lived a few clays, it
seemed almost a life, on the ocean wave, our home
on the icy deep. We had a black fog, yet we
made ourselves quite happy. Services, concerts,
magic-lantern lectures went on all the time. We
were in the neighbourhood of many icebergs, .nd s(.)
it would be unsafe to move in the thick fog. Often
in this neighbourhood they are stranded in the
shallow water on the "banks." Sometimes as they
melt below they become top-heavy, and turn over
with a great splash, to be heard for a considerable
distance over the sea. The icebergs, being six-
sevenths under the water, are affected by currents
unseen on the surface, and so it happens that they
sometimes travel slowly but surely even against
the wind. They meet a track of field ice floating
with the wind and they plough, perhaps, right
through. A sealer or a whaler will get to the lee
side of a berg and get safely through the floes
when such is the case.

THE KFCORD OF KACIT IVW'S RVN

Left Liverpool, May 9, --35 ^'^■'^^^^
Arrived at Movillc, May 9, ^^^ 5.3" P'^^-
Sailed from Moville, May 9, ^^ /-'o- P'^^'

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(• J. \'. I.IM'AI.I,

Commander of K.M.S. Vancouver

i !!•

I I

lit •■

CHAPTER III
Tin: Banks, the Gulf, and the RrvF.R

One c^rcat advantage of the Canadian route to
the American continent is its variety and scenery.
The North Channel, when leaving Liverpool, is
to many minds much more picturesque than the
Oueenstown route. There is, for instance, the Isle
of Man to be seen, the distant Scottish coast, and the
romantic scenery of the Antrim cliffs and Rathlin
Island. Then, after a few days on the Atlantic (in an
ordinary passage), wc see the cliffs of Newfoundland,
and losing them we journey for 500 miles up the
St. Lawrence in fairly still water. The calm water
is a boon to those passengers who have for a few
days been unhappy on the great rollers of the

Atlantic.

In the earlier part of the summer the steamer
track lies to the south of Newfoundland. Later
on, when the ice has melted out of the Belle Isle
Straits, the steamers sail to the north of New-
foundland, saving some 200 miles on the voyage.

When the wearisome fog lifted, and we went
ahead once more, we were indeed thankful. The
monotonous boom of the great whistle is very
wearing, and there was a great deal of danger.

i!V orr.w. I'KAiRTi:, and it.ak

lilM

t- &■:

i i!!l

These fogs, indeed, are more dangerous than
heavy seas and wind. Talking with an old
salt at Liverpool, I was told that some of the
fast steamers — the " greyhounds of the Atlantie "
they are called — whose full-speed is over eighteen
knots an hour, run through the fog noiuiiially at
half-speed ; but that some of their best days' runs
have been when there has been foggy weather with
a smooth sea. I prefer slower vessels, whose
average time across is ten days, but which some-
times take longer.

We do not mind icebergs when the sun is
shining and the fog has gone. They are coldly
picturesque now. Before we leave the Arctic stream
we have a lovely show. " Ice on the starboard
bow, sir," said the second officer to the captain, as
he and I were talking on the deck. Some small
bergs first, and about noon a glorious cathedral-
like island of ice, with huge cliffs of white crystal,
solemn and weird, but glorious in its purity and
grandeur. Nine were seen in four hours, some,
however, far away on the verge of the horizon,
i^locks of ice-birds flew along the sea, wheeling
suddenly all together. Grand it must be to stand
near the Arctic glaciers in Davis Straits, and
sec the gigantic mass split off and plunge into
the deep sea, whicli then slowly bears it south-
wards. One of our passengers photographed
a berg with the evening sun glinting on its
pure blue and white crystals.

Wc are now steaming over the shallow waters
covering the Great ]5ank of Newfoundland. The
sea is no longer 2,000 fathoms in depth beneath

TiiK r.wKs. Tin; (\v\.\\ and tim: ri\ kr 2;

US, but from seventeen to seventy fathoins. We
siL^ht Cape Race on the Avalon peninsula. A
sealer steams past on her way to St. John's. The
passengers line the bulwarks as we pass Cape
Race with its lighthouse, and then we coast along
the rugged shores of Newfoundland. The dark-
cliffs rise in irregular heights, and the hills beyond
are covered with brown frost-burnt grass, which
will probabh' be green in a few days now. Some-
times we see a white house, but only rarely. While
we were out in the Atlantic we rarely saw a
vessel, but now quite a number of fishing schooners
are in sight, and wc pass a large steamer of the
Beaver Line.

From Cape Race, at the south-eastern corner of
Newfoundland to Cape Ray at the south-western
corner, is a little further than from the North Fore-
land round to Land's End. We lose sight of the
mainland between, and we pass the French islands
of Miquelon and St. Pierre. At St. l^aul de
Miquelon stands a French lighthouse, like that at
Ushant, with great bands of black and white.
Poor Newfoundland ! Its PVench difficulties, its
financial collapse, its awful fires, and the unknown
sufferings of its fishermen — aye, and of its clergy
also — all these things seem to be against her.

It is pleasant to have a first-rate atlas with one.
A map of the North Atlantic, with every detail as to
depth, etc., was useful to me and to others, and sup-
plied food for many discussions. We see that we
are passing over the submarine cable from St.
1^'erre to 1^'rance, and the cable from St. Pierre to
the United States.

15V OCKAX. I'KAIRTi:, AND I'KAK

One event at the close of an Atlantic voyage is
the concert, with its collection, for the Seamen's
Liverpool Orphanage. Programmes are printed
in a copying-press, and sold b)- auction the evening
before. When the night comes the saloon is
crowded in every part, and all available talent is
made use of. Captain Lindall sung at these
concerts, and generally made a speech as well. The
last time I hc^yd him, he sang "Our Jack's come
home to-day." There was a special verse written
by a passenger after the gale we experienced. He
sang it as the encore.

" Our Jack's at sea, slill far away,
Drowned by the anpjry tide ;
li'i orpliancd cliildrcn sorely wail
Their father and their pride.

As your eyes p^row moist, you will not fail

To j^nve your dole to-day ;
For you knowjw/V/ soon reach port ayain,

Safe from the waves' wild j)lay."

A few voyages later a sad thing happened. He
had taken part in the concert as usual, and made
one of his kindly speeches. About six the next
morning the weather had become serious, and
the sea had got up. A green sea of terrible
dimensions swept over the upper deck of the
Vancofiver, bending great iron bars like wire,
carrying nearly the whole bridge away, bulg-
ing in the saloon cabin, and completely clearing
away the chart-house. On the bridge was the
quartermaster (a superior sailor) steering, and
one of the officers. Seeing the wave coming, the
officer ran to one side and clung to the iron

TIIK I'.ANKS, TIIF. GULF. AND Till: RTVKR 2/

stanchion. The IhIcIc^c was swept away, and he
was left where he was. The quartermaster was
never seen again, and Captain FJndall also, who
was sleepinj^ in the chart-house, was swept into
the Atlantic, never more to be found. Next day his
mandolinata was found on deck, the only remnant
of the awful occurrence. I Te was a general favourite,
and his end produced a profound sensation.

Again we are out of sight of land, and passing
from Newfoundland into the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
In the afternoon the fog lifted a little, and we saw
some desolate islands to the north of the Magdalen
Isles. One called Bird Island bore a lighthouse,
and we fired signals to show that we carried the
mails. The lighthouse-keepers on this rocky
island are more cut off from the world than those
on islands near our coast. The navic^ation here
during these prevailing fogs is very difficult. The
lead was continually being heaved, and little
specimens of the soil brought up by means of a
glass tube with the lower end open.

At last the fog lifted, the sea became brilliant
blue, and the sun shone out with full power
upon us. So we sped along, and approached the
Gaspe peninsula. High fir-clothed mountains rose
from the water, and the clouds hung white and
fleecy on their summits. French Canadian fisher-
men live in tiny white houses dotted on the level
ground near the shore, or up some of the valleys
which suddenly open like amphitheatres as we
steam past.

Red-roofed, white-walled French houses dot the
shore, and behind them the hills, clothed with fir

2.S

V.\ Ori'AX, I'RATKIi:. AX I) I'KAK

'I'
it

iiii

and si)riicc, and licrc and there clearings with
farmsteads. J)cyond the first range rise the higher
Shickshock Mountains, some 3,000 to 4,000 feet
In'gh, v/ith snow )'ct clinging to their sides.

Oiu captain liad on board on one occasion a
large party of ICnglish folk going to Rapid City,
beyond Winnipeg. The conductor of the party
had come over from that place, and was returning
with these people. They were standing looking
for the first sight of land, and at last the Gaspc
peninsula was seen, its high land covered with snow.
In " high falutin' " language the man from Rapid
City cries : " Behold ! the land flowing with milk and
honey lieth before you." An American standing
by, looking at the snow-covered mountains, said,
" I guess it must be condensed milk, for it seems
to stick there a good deal."

RIMOUSKI AT LAST.

At five in the afternoon, as we approached Farther
Point, some 200 miles up the river, we fired three
detonatiuGf sic^nals. A little Canadian bird which
came on board near Newfoundland was terribly
frightened, and hopped about the deck close to us.

A steam-tug could be seen a mile or two away
coming out from a jett}-, upon which stood a
locomotive and three cars. This was the train for
Quebec and Montreal waitinjj for our mails, which
it would carry up before us. We are twelve hours
from Quebec, and twice that distance from
Montreal, both b}- river. The little tug struggled
out to us, battling with great waves which did not

■>

KIMOL'SKI AT \..\>V

with
:hcr
feet

irty
ing
ing

Then there came the tlirowing

move us at all.
of ropes, and the gangway put across. Our
mail-bags, which were put on board at Moville,
were now carried on to the Canadian tug, which
was flying up and down wildly, so that the
sailors could scarcely get over the gangway.
Great G. V. O. parcel baskets and some scores of
mail and newspaper bags were piled up on the
deck. Then three of our passengers went on
board — Captain Ellis, in order to travel to Halifax,
and two Montreal gentlemen, eager to be back
quickly to business. Soon the tug with its oscil-
lating beam was far in t' j distance, and we sat
down to our last dinner.

After leaving Kiniouski the journey is full of
interest. Lumber ships lie off the different ports
and villages, loading timber for Europe. We pass
the watering-places of Canada. The Canadians
are hundreds and sometimes thousands of miles
from the sea-coast, and so they arc content to go
down to the " salt water." The tide comes up the
St. Lawrence some 500 miles. The stream of the
St. Lawrence is discoloured at one point by the
brown waters of the great Saguenay entering from
the north. Of this wonderful waterway we shall
have more to write later on.

At last we approach Grosse lie, the Canadian
quarantine station, and a steamer comes out to us
with the quarantine doctor who is to see if all are
vaccinated, and with hose for disinfecting the ship
if it should be necessary. On the island are rows
of white buildings for the accommodation of
isolated passengers.

\\v ocvAK, rkAikii':,^ AM) ri.AK

VACCINATION.

We sec a good deal of tlic system of compulsory
vaccination on these vessels. Mveiy stcemge pas-
senger must be vaccinated on board by the ship's
doctor if he has not recent marks on him. Cabin
passengers are not supposed to be liable to small-
pox — the law is not applied to them. In special
cases, however, it is; r.^i/*. if a contagious case is
discovered on board during the voyage. Captain
Davis of the Toro)ito found six of the crew suffering
from what seemed to be small-pox. There v;ere a
number of ladies in' the saloon, and he went to
them and suggested that they and their children
should at once be vaccinated. They were horrified,
and asked the captain if he was going to be
vaccinated also. So he bared his arm, and sub-
mitted at once to the doctor's knife, and then they
all followed his example.

Another case was that of a druggist crossing-
over in the Oregon with his family. Vaccination
day came, and he refused, and said he was an anti-
vaccinationist ; so the doctor passed hiin by, telling
him that he would be returned to England if he
was not done. They were getting up the St.
Lawrence, and Cai)tain Davis, then chief officer,
was sent to tell him to pick out his own baggage,
for he and his wife and children would be landed
at the quarantine station. He was very wroth,
and said that no one should make him land there,
neither should they compel him to be vaccinated.

They came up the river to the quarantine station.
The officials came on board. " Any infectious cases,

VACCINA TluN 31

captain ? " " No." " All vaccinated ? " " There is
one man in the intermediate who refuses to have
his wife or family vaccinated, and won't be done
himself. ' lie was brought aft and interrogated.
"You refuse to be vaccinated.'*" "Yes." "Do
you know that )'0U will be returned by next
steamer.?" "No; and 1 won't go." "Well, will
you be vaccinated .-' " " Well, 1 suppose I must."
So the party descended into the saloon, and all
were properly done, and the quarantine doctor
bade them good-bye. He was getting over the
side, when he remembered his gloves were in the
saloon, and ran down for them. The druggist was
engaged in sucking the lymph out of his wife's
arm ; so the quarantine doctor did them all again,
and they were not allowed to remove the matter
this time. One cannot but adir.iie the doggedness
of this resistance. The poor emigrants suffer from
their arms the most just when many of them are
arriving at their destination. The secret of saloon
passengers being exempted is that they are
exempted in the United States, and all the saloon
traffic was diverted to New York until they relaxed
the restriction.

When the ocean liner, after eight to ten days'
voyage, comes in the early morning up the side of
the Isle of Orleans, with its exquisite green verdure
"and pretty French houses, one feels as if one never
saw anything so lovely. But everything on land
is lovelier after some days at sea. Montmorency
Fall is then seen tlistinctly, a mile or two away,
with its feathery spray — its clear drop of 250
• feet. La Vachc (the cow) it is called, from its

.•)-

v,\ oci.AN, I'UAiuii . WD ri:.\K

foamy whiteness, like wiiipped creum tumbling
over the preeipice.

But now in front of us i<< Quebec once mure, and
on the left bank I'oint Levis.

■' Which side are we i^oini;' to-day, captain ? "

" I expect it will be tlic I'oint Levis side to-day,
Mr. Boddy," is the answer.

The two main railway lines each have here depots

it the

ite side

id th

lie is for the

: vessels
carrying passengers to go to each alternately. The
steam tender of the o^/icr line carries its own
passengers to its station across the river.

"Crack — bang" goes an ear-splitting cannon
from the citadel. " Rip — bang " is the resonant
answer from our vessel ; and we dip our flag in
salute.

We work up alongside the (.juay, and a babel
commences as the foreign emigrants, with the help
of interpreters, get their belongings out of the hold
on ^o the wharf for the Grand Trunk Railway, or
on to the tender for the Canadian Pacific Railway.

The view of Quebec and the town opposite, at
I'oint Levis, from the deck is very fine — the white
houses and churches, the cliff's and citadel. It is
very interesting to look round at the passengers
and see their faces lit up with strange excitement,
now that they have really reached the New World.
One scarcely knows some of them, for they are now
dressed up in their smartest clothes. ** Say, Bill,
did ye ever see a church walking about before.-*"
says one of our humorists, as a Grand Trunk
locomotive comes along to the depot, its great bell
solemnly ringing. A few of the passengers remained

w;
1)^

V.\(( r NATION'

oil the steamer, to i;o on her U[) to Montreal. \".'e
made fast to the wliarf at I'oint Levis, ami a tender
belonginj^ to the i^reat Canadian Pacifie Raihva)'
had come alonj^side. Nearly all (nir emigrants were
going to travel west by C.P.R., and their luggage
was hauled up out of the hold with much rattling
by the steam winch.

The Scandinavians and luiglish crowded the
tender, and we were soon steaming away waving
our hats to the officers and saloon passengers. All
steerage passengers must land at Ouebec. Saloon
passengers goon to Montreal without extra charge.

While w : were beside the wharf, the S.P.C.K.
chaplain for the immigrants at Ouebec (the Kcv.
T. W. Fyles) came on board. Mrs. llcncker, of
Sherbrookc, wanted a don.e^<-ic servant. 1 was
glad to recommend one of my charge in the inter-
mediate, and Mr. Fyles saw her off in the train to
the new place. There is a jrrcat demand for really
good servants, and they are engaged very quickly
on landing without going any further west.

! )

;?■

CHATTER IV

Historic Quebec

Before wc set off on our journey to the Far West
we must pause in the presence of a fragment of the
Old World so full of interest, guarding the gate of
the New. We leave our emigrant friends awhile,
rejoining them in Chapter VI.

Crossing the river from Point Levis, wc go over
to the Canadian Pacific Railway Depot, where we
get a calccJic.

"Your first time in Quebec, sir.''" says the
cocJicr,

" No, my friend ; nor the second or third either."
I persuaded him to lower his tariff somewhat, and
we engaged him by the hour.

After business in various quarters, we thought it
time to drive to an hotel, and so or'' ed him to
go to the new hotel called the " Frontenac," up on
the Dtfferin Terrace, in a splendid situation. We
passed in through the great gateway into the court-
yard, and out rushed boys in buttons and welcomed
us politely. Before I let them remove the baggage,
I went in and saw the hotel clerk. " What is the
lowe:^t price for board and lodging per day } "
" Four dollars apiece," he curtly replied (about

iTisTORic (.)UKr.i':("

ijs.). I returned to the calccJic, and told the
coachman to take us to a clean French boarding--
house near the wharf. Here wc paid one dollar a
day. It was the liousc of Madame dc la Pierre,

^m^'f^M-,:-

wr^p

1'ki:n('ii •(•.\i,i';inK

20, Pierre Street, and I can strongly recommend it
to those who can speak any r^-ench.

While we are resting under Madame de la
Pierre's roof, let us remind ourselves of the early
history of this Gibraltar of the West.

" Quel Bee ! What a l^eak ! What a promon-
tory ! " cried Jacques Cartier's pilot in 1534, an
they found themselves (after sailing 500 miles

i i

T'.V OCEAN, PRATRIF, AND PEAK

and more up this groat estuary) at last facing the
noble Diamond Cape. Thus was given the name
to the spot crowned now by the citadel of Quebec.

Sent out by France in the da}'s when each great
Power was seeking new lands beyond the oceans,
Jacques Cartier, with his three t'"ny sixty-ton ships,
entered this great river o.-: i.! • -;aint's day of the
Martyr of Spain and ga^- _ it ;iis name — the St.
Lawrence.

An Indian village at the foot of the rock bore the
name, in the Algonquin language, of

STADACONA,

in the Huron tongue Teontirili, both meaning
" the narrowinc: of the stream." It is at Quebec
three-quarters of a mile wide, though 500 miles
from its mouth.

Cartier came over again ip i ~, 'i-.d 1541.
Eight or ten weeks' voyage each lime, a ^d icrrible
were the sufferings through those first winters spent
in Canada. Hundreds of the French cniinrs died
of scurvy through living on salt meat through all
the weary months of snow and ice.

"Kanatei" was the Indian name ^or the vicinity
of Quebec. It meant *' a gathering '"huts." That
name "Canada" has spread and ; :ad until it
now includes all the great Dominion even to Van-
couver Island Ml the I'acific, 3,000 miles to the
west.

When you stand in front of the magnificent
Parliament Buildings, near the Grande Alice, just
beyond the Ramparts (in Quebec's most fashionable

STAHAroXA

lUiartei"), you sec statues of L^rcut men in tlic niches
of the front of that building. When you go tlirough
the town or look at the shops you see names which
you feel sure must be those of men with mighty
histories attached to them.

Let me transmit to the reader a few facts in
connection with these names. Cartier, though the
discoverer of Canada, was not successful as the
planter of a colony. It was not until 1608, when
Champlain arrived, that New France began to
live. It was Henry IV. of France that dispatched
Samuel de Champlain. He allied himself with the
Algonquins and Hurons, and was thenceforth the
object of the hatred of the Five Nations, who,
banded together, were known as the Iroquois. He
was the true founder of French Canada,

In later days the French monarch, anxious to
have the colony more under his control, appointed
a Sovereign Council to sit in Quebec, the principal
personages to be the Governor-General, the Royal
Intendant, and the liishop. Each believed he was
the real head, and each reported the misdoings of the
others. The Intendant was chief of police, justice,
finance, and marine, and had very great power.

The most notorious of the Intendants was Bigot.
He taxed and plundered the poor habitants, chiefly
to enrich himself. When the country people were
starving he lived in luxury and wickedness — a
reflection in Canada of the corrupt Court of his
royal master in l^^-ancc.

His statue is not in a niche in front of I'arliainent
House, but a golden dog may be seen by passers-
by who look up at the Post Office Buildings.

- :«i i _icr i tw < I f0V

ii ill

ill

;8 v,x (x:i:ax, I'KAikii:. and 1'i:ak

'11 IK STOKV Ul' THE GOLDKN DOG.

An honest merchant named PhiUbert was perse-
cuted by the Intendant Bigot, and, unable to
retaliate, he placed aloft as his trade-mark the

<>rKi;K( MARkr;

figure of a golden dog, with a JMcnch rh}-mc be-
neath, ending with the words, " The time will come,
which has not yet arrived, when I shall bite, who
have been bitten."

axutiii:r >tok\'

.^9

The Intcndant quartered a number of troops on
M. IMiilibert to annoy him further, and a^ last a
boon companion of l^igot's, by name Monsieur de
la Repcntigny, provoked I\I. Philibert to a duel,
and gave him a mortal wound. The brother of the
dead merchant avenged him years after, having
followed him even to Pondicherry in the ICast
Indies, where he slew Repcntigny.

ANOTHER STORY.

M. Bigot had as his country residence a beautiful
chateau at the foot of the Laurentian Mountains.
He was fond of sport, and in a hunting expedition
lost his way. He met a young Algonquin squaw of
singular beauty. She led him home to the chateau,
and being induced to enter its walls never left them
more.

A Mademoiselle Angelique des IVIeloises, of
Quebec, who was to marry the Intendant, heard of
this fair Algonquin at the chateau at Peaumanoir,
and the Indian girl's fate was sealed. A piercing
cry was heard echoing through those halls and
corridors, and Caroline was found stabbed. Not
long ago a gravestone with " C " carved on it
could be seen in the churchyard at Beaumanoir.
It was said that the unhappy Caroline was not of
full Indian race, but that her father by marriage
was an officer of high rank in the army of France.

III!

JiV oCKAN, I'KAIRIK, AM) TKAk

CONC,)UKST IIV KNCLANl).

]\Iontc;ilm, a noble-minded man, had great diffi-
culties in his way when defending Quebec in 1759
against the English. With a commissariat presided
over by Bigot, with a corrupt Court in France, who
cared nothing for the "15,000 leagues of snow,"
as they then described Cai ida in I'rance, his work
was wonderful.

Quebec had been taken by the English in the
days of Champlain, and restored after twenty years,
in 1628, under the Treaty of St. Germain. Twice
since then efforts had been made by England, but
disastrously, to seize Quebec (viz. in 1690 and
171 1), and the Church of Notre Dame des Victoires
commemorates those occasions.

In July, 1759, General Wolfe with General
Monckton were landed with troops on what is now
known as the Island of Orleans, a long narrow
island dividing the St. Lawrence for some distance
below Quebec. They represented but one of three
English armies advancing from different points.

Wolfe was defeated with considerable loss in a
battle with Montcalm's troops close by the Mont-
morency Falls, and Monckton at the same time
was engaged in bombarding the town of Quebec
from Port Louis across the river. Wolfe became
ill through grief and disappointment at his dis-
astrous defeat, and it was not until six weeks later
that anything could be done.

On September 13 a feigned attack was made
on the French on the banks of the St. Lawrence
near Beauport, and the English fleet in the night

III

MONTCALM

sailed up the St. Lawrence past the city some
nine miles to Cap Rouge. Here 1500 picked men
were floated down in the early morning on tlie ebb
of the tide, and landed north of the town and
scrambled up to the Heights of Abraham (so called
after a boatman, Abraham Martin).

Montcalm, seven miles below Quebec, heard
that the English were massed on the plateau to
the north of the city, and marched to resist them.
Montcalm and Wolfe both passed within ::\ few
hours of one another into the presence of the God
of Battles. The stories of their respective ends
are touching. One scarcely knows whether to
admire most the defeated general or the successful
commander.

:i!

MONTCALM.

The Marquis de Montcalm was about forty-seven
years of age, and had had a brilliant career in the
French army. His skill was shown in the position
he took at Beauport, near the Montmorency Falls,
and his defeat of the English Grenadiers with great
loss. He was successful until the ruse of the Encf-
lish led to their unexpected appearance on the
Heights of Abraham. In the encounter he was
wounded by a musket-shot, but went on. Then
he was struck by the one six-pounder gun which
the English had dragged up on to the Heights.

As his wounds were being dressed he asked the
surgeon if the}- were mortal. On being told that
they were he said, *' I am glad of it." He then

4-5

IIV OC KAN, I'KAIkli;, AMJ I'KAK

asked how lony; he should h've ? " Ten or twelve
hours — perhaps less." " So much the better," he
replied ; " then I shall not live to sec the surrender
of Ouebec." On being pressed to give commands
to his officers, he replied, " I will neither give orders
nor interfere any further. I have much business
that must be attended to, of far greater moment."
lie addressed himself, says the historian, to his
religious duties, and passed the night with the
Bishop and his own confessor. Before he died he
paid the victorious army the magnanimous compli-
ment : " Since it is my misfortune to be discomfited
and mortally wounded, it is a great consolation to
me to be vanquished by so brave an enemy. If I
could survive this wound, I would engage to beat
three times the number of such forces as I com-
manded this morning with a third of the British
troops."

He was burled, it was said, in the yard of
the Ursuline Convent, and in a grave already
made by the bursting of a bomb-shell during the
bombardment.

WOLl'K,

" /// dcatJi tJiey were not divided." Major-General
James Wolfe would be only thirty-two years old at
the battle of Abraham Heights. With 4,826 men
he defeated 7,520 of the enemy. The night before
the engagement, as he was visiting the ships, he
repeated to an officer on the boat the whole of
Gray's FJegy, wh' 1 was then scarcely known.
He said, " I would rather have written that poem

}

Ul I.INH CONVli.NT.

IJY OCKAN, I'RAIKIi:, AND I'llAK

than be the conqueror of Canada." These words
were soon fulfilled —

'' The boast of licialdry, the jwinp of j)()\vcr,
And all that l:)caiity, all tliat rank e'er i,'a\ c,
Await alike the incvitaljle hour

'IMie paths of j^lory lead but to the j^n'ave I "

During the battle on that September day he was
wounded in the wrist, but went on, and placing
himself at the head of the Grenadiers, advanced
with them as they charged the l*^*ench with bayo-
nets. In this conspicuous position he received a
ball in his breast. Other leading officers were
killed or mortally wounded also.

" They run — they run ! " exclaimed an officer
who supported him as he lay in mortal agony.
" Who run .-* " he eagerly cried. " The I'rench," was
the answer. " What," said he, " do they run already ?
Then I die happy." So he expired.

His remains were conveyed to England in the
Royal William, and were borne with . military
honours to Westminster Abbey, where a beautiful
monument commemorates his death. And there
is this inscription —

To the memory of

James Wolfk,

Major-(iencral and Commander-in-Chief

of the 15ritish Land Forces,

On an Expedition against Oueljec,

Who having surmounted,

\\\ ability and \'alour,

All obstacles of art and nature,

Was slain at the moment of \'ictory,

On tlie i3tli of Sci)tcml)er, 1759.

The King and Parliament ofCreat Ihilain

Dedicated this Monument.

MONTGOMKRV

MONTGOMERY.

Richard IVTontgomcry was a commissioned officer
in General Wolfe's army when Quebec was taken.
In later days he left the British army and joined
the American cause of Independence. In the effort
to seize Canada he was invested with the command
of the American forces. With 3,000 men, he and
Arnold invested the citadel of Quebec. It was
defended by 1800 British and Canadian militia.
On the night of December 31, 1775, a determined
attack was made, and at the foot of the citadel
Montgomery was slain, with thirteen others, by
C\c firing of a battery of nine-pounders. His body
was found next morning under the snow. Some
months later, on the arrival of reinforcements from
England, the American troops retreated.

General Montgomery's body was eventually
interred in St. Paul's Church, New York, and a
magnificent monument erected by Congress is
placed there to h's memory.

THE FALLS OF THE MONTMORENCY.

Our cocJicr was very anxious to drive us to the
Montmorency Falls, so after we had refreshed we
set out. Bump, jolt, over the strange pavements,
along the narrow French streets, and houses tall
and short, and signs hanging across the foot-walks.
Out into the green country, through toll-gate and
over soft Canadian earthen roads, past pretty
French villus with green blinds and shingled roofs,
or roofs of brilliant tin. Through the endless

r.Y OrKAX, I'l^MRTK, AND PFAK

i ! I !

'ii

village of Bcauport, with the St. Lawrence and
Orleans Isle far below, till at last, after some seven
miles or so, we slowly crossed the wooden bridge
over the river Montmorency, and leaving the
calcchc paid our twenty-five cents for permission
to approach the Falls.

By winding paths we. sped down through fir
trees, refusing the small boys' aid who wished to
be engaged as guides. Now we are in full view of
one of the most terrific of the world's cataracts. A
clear leap of 250 feet ! Ilig' than the citadel ;
higher than Niagara. lwer_, ^n of water seems
to float down through the air, and to break into
feathery, creamy spray ere it reaches the bottom.
The clouds of spray hide the lower part from view.
We clambered down more than 300 steep and
rather dangerous wooden steps to see the Falls
from the level of the water at the foot. To our
amazement we found this almost impossible. Down
the first 200 steps we descended all the time in
some danger, because they are so terribly steep
and smooth ; but the lower steps descended into
a hurricane of blinding spray, leaping out from the
foot of the Falls a hundred yards distant in con-
stant irresistible gusts. It was, indeed, like standing
on the bridge of an Atlantic steamer in a blinding
gale of rain and spray.

Nothing could be seen, and one had to turn
one's back to this monsoon at last, and clamber up
the slippery steps into a drier atmosphere. An-
other time I will take mackintosh and overalls. I
was soaked with the wet. Panting, we painfully
reached the top, and with the roar of the gigantic

I.iril.K CIIAMI'I.AIN SIKKKI',

15V OCEAN, TRAIRIE, AND I'K.VK

■'' 'I

■i

;

cataract dinning in our cars wo looked forth on
the beautiful scene. Away from the Falls, over the
north channel of the St. Lawrence River (into which
the Montmorency River flows), is the long Isla.id
of Bacchus, as the Tsle d'Orleans was first called,
from the profusion of wild grapes growing in its
underwood in Cartier's days. Beyond the island
is the broad south channel, and the distant shore
where the houses stretch away to Levis, opposite
Quebec. Down below us is a four-storied mill
turned by this mighty stream. Some say that
after the plunge this river in great parts goes
underground, and comes up at the end of the
Island of Orleans in a sort of whirlpool, which the
fishermen avoid.

Away up the broad St. Lawrence is the great
citadel again ; we see it everywhere. It is like
I'^hrenbreitstein on the Rhine, or like an Edinburgh
Castle surrounded on three sides by miles of water ;
or, best of all, like Gibraltar. It is well likened to
that mighty rock-hewn fortress guarding tlie gate
of the Mediterranean. All the while hundreds of
tons of broken, curdled water are swiftly dropping
through the air in a hundred yards gravitation
race. Follow one lump of water with the field-
glasses from where we stand. As it drops it is
disintegrated and becomes spray, circled and glori-
fied, ui'til at last it disappears into the tempest of
mist driven out b}' the never-ceasing gales caused
by the swiftly-descending water itself. Gales and
gusts smite the surface of the water below into
mad turbulence, and blow it away in great circling
waves, and crown it with blasts of spray.

ili

TlIK I'AI.' S OK TIIK MOXTMUkKMV

We found our way now round to the brink of
the precipice beside the Falls. The Montmorency
River, we were told, was very full, and it came
down a steep descent over slabs of rock like
natural steps; then it made tlie final plunge.
Remains of a suspension bridge remind one of a
tragedy. A French farmer and his wife and
daughter were driving over in their calccJte one
.Sunday morning when the whole structure col-
lapsed, and they fell into the flood. The next
moment they were over the great fall and perished
swiftly. It is a very dangerous neighbourhood, and
I have no doubt many a one has slipped either on
those terrible btnirs or on the vcrcre (^f the Falls.

In winter-time the falling spray accumulates in
a cone, ever increasing in height, until it forms a
splendid slope for toboggan sleighing. Gay parties
come out from Quebec, and a story is told of an
officer and a lady, who on one of these sleighs
were shooting down tiie cone, when the sleigh
swerved off the track and disai)pearcd through a
hole n\ the ice on the river, and in a moment of
mernment and laughter they vanished, and were
never seen more.

We draw homewards, stopping to copy an
inscription in French beneath a wayside pillar
surmounted by a cross.

PAR N'OTKK

.SANG PRECIEUX

VOUS NOUS AVEZ RaCHETKS,

O I'ksus.

-r!w*wm»ir4»«miww^iv»:^'^"»»»'";-w*»'""P*"**i*"**^^

l;V OCI'.AN, I'l^AIKll, AM) I'lAK

"in;

As wc approach Quebec the dayliL^ht dies away,
and there springs out of the darkness the most
dazzHnt;', clear illumination any city can possess.
The streets on the hill-side before us arc picked
out by luminous, planet-like electric lights. Mont-
morency supplies the power which lights all Quebec
indoors and out with a calm, steady, unflinching
light. Water turned into flame !

Madame Pierre's daughter kindly supplies us
with some supper, although that meal is over. It
is a lovely night. Let us go out again.

Pay three cents (half-pennies) and go with me
on board one of the ferry steamers which all night
and al! day ply across the vSt. Lawrence. Quebec
on this side with 63,000 inhabitants, and l^oint
Levis on the other with 12,000.

Wc sit on tho deck. The sun has just set.
Before we leave, wc lean back and crane our necks
to look up at the great new P\-ontenac Hotel, built
in the st}'le of a P'rench chateau, high up on the
Dufferin Terrace. To the left, still higher up, is
the great Citadel with its guns. ^^ \ P^'cnch
houses all round the wharf. The whistle booms,
the ropes are cast off; Quebec is all dark, the
sunlight being behind. Point Levis is lit up with
the reflection from the western sky, and the windows
of the buildings are blazing as if a furnace roared
within.

As wc steam out into the St. Lawrence, we look
over the dark waters to the spot where the sun
descended. Ragged clouds are stretched in shreds
across the sky, and the old-world Laurentian moun-
tains, dark and grim, are silhouetted against the

■liMMHI

TllK lALl.S OV THE MONTMUKKN ^ V 5^

amber light behind. To-morrow we are to journey
far behind those mountains to the north.

We are across the river now, and lookmg back
over the chopping waves we see them all dark and
yet glistening with glory from the sky. Quebec, a
black outline ; and yet now here, there, and every-
where, wondrous luminous stars spring mto benig
—the electric lights from the highest pomt right
down to the water's edge.

ill
i

if •■!

t "^ I

CIIAl'TER V
Lake St. John and tjie Saguenay

For those who can spare even a week in Quebec
Province, there is now opened out a new and
delightful excursion to a district but little known
— 200 miles due north from the old city.

In a few years the Lac St. jean will be well
known on this western continent, and this railway
journey will often be taken in order to descend the
Canadian Styx in a comfortable steamboat of the
Richelieu Company, whose name is the name of
the river itself — the Sagiicnaj'.

Thousands of visitors every year skirt the broad
expanse of Lake Superior and the other fresh-
water oceans of North America. Comparatively
few have, however, visited Lac St. Jean (Lake St.
John) in the wilder districts, nearly 200 miles north
of the city of Oucbcc.

A COLONY OF TkAPriST FATHERS,

with their rules of perpetual silence, and their
Friday chastisements, were expelled from France
in 1880. In 1892 we find them securely estab-
lished on the Mistassini River, some twenty miles

A COLONY OF TRAPPIST FATHERS

from the great lake. I understand that tlicy
obtained from the (practically) Roman Catholic
Government of Oiiebcc Province an enormous
grant of land in the vicinity of the lake, and now
that the railway is established (also by Govern-
ment ir^ainly) this land will in their hands increase
steadily in value, and the L'rench Roman Catholic
colonists will flock to live on it, because of the
sanctity of these "silent monks of Oka." The
Trappists never speak to each other except to
utter the warning " Memento mori " (" Remember
death"); but they have foremen and managers,
and they obey their orders. The Roman Catholic
Church is stronger in this province than in Italy
itself. The people are most " religious " in their
way. Any one who is not a Roman Catholic
would find it trying to live here, save uiidcr
favourable circumstances, though T have heard of
a colony of North Irish Protestants some distance
north of Quebec city.

Great credit is due to these P^'cnch Canadians
for opening out this new land to the north of
Quebec. It was found that the younger people
were beginning to emigrate to the States, because
the land around them was taken up.

Then a vigorous move was made to open the
country around Lake St. John in the form of
Roman Catholic parishes generally circling round
a rude log chapel, which, as the colony became
able, was replaced by a more substantial structure.
The Church is the rallying-point,the centre of attrac-
tion — a truly beautiful idea. The I'rench Canadian
appreciates religious surroundings and influences.

l^^ll

r.Y OCEAN, PKATRTE, ANl^ TFAK

Owing to the heavy train, we went very slowly
up the grades which led us into the Laurentian
Mountains, and we were at least an hour late. It
is a. serpentine line, winding around the bases of
fir-covered mountains, and along the sides of
rushinsf trout streams and endless lakes. It re-
minded me of the journey across Sweden from
Gothenburg to Stockholm. It might well be
called the "Railway of the Thousand Lakes."

We were to have had lunch about one at Lake
Edward, but it was nearer three when we pulled
up at that station (we had left Quebec at eight
a.m.). The " magnificent dining-room, capable of
seating one hundred guests," turned out to be a
sort of plank shanty near the small station. The
lunch, at fifty cents, was fairly good, and we had
some of the fresh fish from the lake. Three
gigantic trout lay on a table under the verandah —
to show us what could be caught. They were
at least six pounds weight each. A paper pinned
above said, " These ' infants ' were caught in Lake
Edward. What must the full-grown fish be ! "

Some of our fellow-travellers, who hailed from
New York, left the cars here for a week or two's
fishing on these waters, and as we bowled away we
saw them sailing across the lake with a guide.
They were fully determined to catch big trout.

I found the country people here unable to read.
I offered both Erench texts and a Erench Testa-
ment to a Jiahitaut ploughing beside the railway
among the stumps. He could make nothing of
either.

This wild nciijhbourhood is a

A I'AKADISK I'OK l-ISIIl'.KMKX

rARAI>ISl'; FOR KISlllvR.MKN

from the States. There arc several clubs. At
Lake Edward (also called the Lac dcs Grandes
lies) is one of these clubs — the " Taradisc Fin and
Feather Club." At Lake Kis-kisink we saw the
summer head-quarters of the Metabetchouan Fish-
ing and Game Club, in which arc quite a number
of New EnG^land millionaires. There must be
more than half-c -dozen of such chibs on this loner
h'nc. The members can travel through from their
homes in a little more than three days. The
American likes to live luxuriously, while the
English sportsman is more willing to rough it in
camp. An officer with whom I talked had, within
one twelvemonth, served with the Scewart column in
Upper Egypt in the attempted relief of Khartoum,
and also in the Riel Rebellion business on the Red
River, with the thermometer a score of degrees
below zero. He said, " I always go under canvas
when I fish or shoot here, and my wife often goes
with me. Roughing it is half the sport ; but the
New Yorkers want all their luxuries within arm's
length."

Tiiese American club-houses are practically
hotels, with every comfort, and on the lake floai s
the steam launch, ready to take in tow the fishing-
party in their boats some eight o'- ten miles to
their destination, and come again for them in the
evening to be back in time for dinner.

Lac Bouchette gave us one of the beautiful views
on this long day's ride. It lay extended below us,
stretching far away to the left, imbedded in fir-

*. (if

■'51

S '

J5V OCEAN, TRAIRIE, AND PEAK

clothed hills which raised their verdant domes
on all sides. A saw-mill, surrounded by plank
liouscs, gave life to the picture.

These French Canadians have generally

ENORMOUS FAMITJES.

Government gives one hundred acres to any one
who has twelve children. As we pass many a log
hut or plank house, we see througli the door the
families in regular steps and stages, from the babe
in arms up to the boy or girl of thirteen or fourteen.
These rVench people in Canada arc a most prolific
race.

They are most certainly, and not very slow!}',
driving the English out of the province of Quebec,
away to the West. In this province, out of a total
population of 1,400,000, above 1,000,000 are Roman
Catholics, the majority of whom very generally
use the ^''rench language. They marry young, and
though in France the people are said to be shrink-
ing in numbers, here they increase mightily, and
live on very little.

They arc our fellow-citizens in our British
Empire. The Queen rules over a smaller France.
They are content to remain under her rule so long
as they have their own old laws, and are not
interfered with ; and so long as the Roman Church
is upheld in its prestige, and exempt from all rates
and taxes. Cassocked priests are everywhere.
The village ntn'h an object in nearly every scene
and on the platform of ever}- roadside station.

WE APPROAril THE CREAT LAKE

WE APPROACIT THE HREAT LAKi:.

At last, after many hours in the cars, we arrived
at Lake St. John. Sea-hke, its wide-spread plain
of water reaches to the ver}- horizon. In the

i^i

it) . i .

in m

oi.i) i-ri:n(11 iiorsK.

distance is Roberval, with its luxurious hotel, and
between us and it the celebrated Ouatchouan Falls
(pronounced "watch-one," or very nearly so).
Eighteen miles a^ioss by one of the little steamers
is the Grande Discharc^c, with another smaller hotel,

j.'-miLI!'5 gLJll— L'i.

r.V OCKAX, I'KATRIi:, AM) I'F.AK

the resort of those who come to fish. These waters
arc famed as bcini^ the home of the Ouananichc
(pronounced Wananish), the fresh-water sahnon :
a most h'vely fish when once hooked, jumping
liigh out of the water four or five feet again and
again, and sometimes by rare chance jumping right
into the angler's birch-bark canoe. Tempestuous
somersaults, tremendous leaps, fiery struggles,
amazing and obstinate strength, such are the ex-
pressions of an American writer, finishing with this
sentence : " His vigorous contentions are astound-
ing, while at every leap into the air he turns a
complete somersault, all the while shaking his head
with the fierceness of an enraged tiger."
This neighbourhood is still more truly the

k V-

"HOME OF THE MOXTACJNAIS."

These dark-skinned handsome Indians have their
Reservation at Pointe Bleu — some three miles
beyond the Roberval Hotel. They <ire excellent
guides to the forest and to big game.

The late Bishop Williams of Quebec had reported
to him the statement that there were Church of
England Indians also at Lake St. John, and he
found it true. These Mistassini Indians had been
br^ptized at Moose Factory, Hudson's Bay. TJiesc
Indians at Lake St. John have a church of iheir
own. A special missionary, the Rev. II. C. Stuart,
of Three Rivers, visits them once a month.

They have often hard lives. They hunt and trap
in winter in the woods lying between this lake
and Hudson's Bay, and the furs they collect are

OORflKOUS SUNSFT

exchanged by them with the factors of Hudson's
Bay for the ordinary necessaries of hfe. The
squaws like bright colours, and wear a liead-dress
remarkably like that I have seen the Lapps of the
Arctic Circle wear — a square padded " tuque " of
red stripes and black, each stripe piped in blue.
Here on the lake in summer they act as guides, or
with dexterous hands build

THE IJIKCll-r.ARK CANOES

vJiich float here and on Saguenay — lovely light-
floating canoes, in which you must kneel on a
cushion, and enter and leave warily. The slightest
awkwardness will cause a hole in the bottom or an
upset.

An excellent idea of the size of the lake is
obtained from the railway line skirting one-third
of its circumference. Such a

111

(JORGEOUS SUNSET

as one rarely beholds lit up the lake as we journej-ed
along the line. The v/ater of the lake became
blood, and the sky around the setting sun glowed
like a furnace. Clouds were glorified, and far into
the zenith they were tipped with magenta edges nt
the side nearest the sun. Down went the crimson
sun slowly behind Hotel Roberval, and strip; of
cloud became half-violet and half-ruby, reflecting
this light. All England was in darkness. The
sun sets about eight, and at home it would be about
midnic^ht — four hours different.

8
I

1 1

15V orKAN, rKAIklK, AND PF.AK

At the eastern side of the lake the waters over-
flow throuofh the Little Discharne and the Grand
Discharge in riishinc^, whirling;, seething eddies, and
down these the Indians will take one in a light
canoe. Nothing but a sheet of bark between you
and eternity. The divided streams unite at the foot
of Alma Island at the Wache Caillc.

Seventy miles, mostl}' of rapids, with excitements
the whole time, including the Gcrvais Rapids and
the Grand Remous, a most turbulent cascade and
c(U\y, and then the Sagucnay settles lio v-n still and
deep and solemn to run the other seventy miles to
the St. Lawrence. These Indians are the " Moun
taineers of the Laurentian Hills," as well as the
skilful pilots of the rivers. Here the men mostly
dress in trousers and jacket and soft felt like
Canadians, but the women wear bright colours and
dress their hair oddly.

At Chicoutinii I asked the cocJicr to take us,
not to the best hotel, but to a clean, respectable

W'e had no reason

boardinsf-house
getting to

to regret

TFTK PENSION OF MADAME Vl'UVE OCT.
TREMDLAV,

and soon were ready to rest between the snow-
white sheets. I turned down the lamp and leant
out of the dormer window. It was dark, the moon
had gone, but I think I never saw so many stars.
I didn't know there were so many, and they were
reflected again in the broad, smooth, swift stream
of the river Saguenay below. We were some

PENSION Ol" MADAME TREMliLAY

seventy miles from its muutli, and abuut seventy
from its commencement, where the overflow of the
inland sea (St. John) rushes out by the Grande
Discharge. It is named by the Indians I'itchi-
tanichetz. I leant out, and filled my lungs with
the fresh, sweet, cold air. Across the river, in the
starlight, I could see the dark, fir-clad hills beyond.
Down below me on this side, a few lights in Chi-
coutimi, and the lamps still lit In railway cars in
which we had travelled. They stood on the line
by tlie water's edge.

"Jim, get up and look at the Northern Lights,"
I said*

There, across the dark river and above the fir-
clad bank and over some dark clouds, the great
search-lights of the Arctic region were shooting
moving electric bands athwart the sky. They
radiated out from the north, growing bright and
growing dim, always changing and shifting, and the
river below reflected it all.

First thing in the morning I was at the window
again. Now, the daylight made it all real, and lit
up the numberless French houses and the village
of the Bonne Stc. Anne across the water, and its
church, with the gold-tipped spire, ringing sweetly
for matins, its beU echoing over the water.

Everything around thoroughly French-Canadian.
Within a few yards the Roman cathedral and a
convent. The bells ring first for early mass about
five in the morning. The Bishop (R.C.) of Chicou-
timi, Mgr. Le Brecque, also lives here, and there
is a seminary for the diocese, A Presbyterian
minister (Mr. Steele) has fifteen Scotch families

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ill

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JiV OCEAN, rKAIRli;, AND I'KAK

under his chaiLTc. A crrcat timber establishment
here is owned by Senator IVice, the King of the
Saguenay ; he employs most of the people. A new
Roman church has been built for the people living
near these saw-mills. It is built on the site of the
little chapel erected in .1670 by the Jesuits, who
came in tliose early days to convert the Indian.
When the workmen, in 1892, were digging for
foundations for the new building they found an
Indian coffin, and in it, beside the remains, were
many curious relics — an arrowhead, teeth of bears
and of bea\'ers, the point of a sword, etc.

CiilCOUTIMl

has about 3,000 inhabitants. Several little shops
are supplied by the steamers from Montreal and
Quebec. There is a hotel (Motel Martin) and
a pcnsioti^ where we were very comfortable. It is
kept by Dame Veuve {Widoiv) Oct. Tremblay.
Madame Tremblay is a fluent bi-linguist, though
her mother knows only French. The former did
the cooking, and the latter waited at table. One
dollar a day for a bed and board is very cheap
on this continent. 1 have no doubt if any one
stayed a little time her price would be still less. Our
food was good and plentiful. Abcut live in the
morning the older Madame went out with her can,
and called affectionately to tlie cow over in the
field, and soon the "spurt-spurt " on the sounding
bottom of the tin told one through the open
windows that while we were in bed preparations
were going forward for our breakfast.

'flBIBI

IN TlIK WARM (.LOAMIXC;

ThroUL^h the sunny day wc climbed the hills and
made the acquaintance of the waterfiills.

IN TIIK warm: GROAAIINC

we sat beneath the verandah, as do all the Chicou-
timceans, and talked of thini^s great and interesting
until bedtime, and retired to enjoy refreshing sleej),
and the swamp frogs (the Canadian Nightingales)
chirped and babbled in lullaby. Prison and tele-
phone, exchange and cathedral, has this village-
town of Chicoutimi, with its 3.000 inhabitants. In
a few days it was to have a train every day, in-
stead of three times a week.

The Chicoutimi River, running here into the
Saguenay, gives its name to the town. It comes
down steep rapids — a long waterfall in truth for
many miles — its brown waters churned into foam
as it leaps from rock to rock, wdiilst clouds of spray
and mist make rainbows in the briq,ht sunshine.
I\ly brother-in-law and I clambered up on the
railway track, and after a mile or more struck
into the bush and crossed a respectably high
mountain, and then diagonally over the country
towards the roar of a gigantic cataract. Scrambling,
climbing, slipping, fighting with thick brushwood
and undergrowth, our progression was slow. I got
hot in body and temper though 1 tried to keep
cool, but tlie branches scratched my face, and those
nasty tlics — Eugh ! On the summit of one height
\ve had a

N]';VKk-TO-lJJ'>F()R( iOTTl'.N \ I I'AV.
We sat on a slab of rock and the ants ran round,

I Ik

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BBBaKHKrv-iSr';"~;25S

^^4

15V OCEAN, I'KAIKIi:, AND I'KAK

: m\

and the flics, gcttini,^ new life with the summer
heat, bit us and walked over us. But I . the clear
air \vc could see blue mountains in the far distance
bounding our view, and nearer to us and yet a
mile or two away, the farther bank of the smooth
Saguenay with the little white houses scattered
here and there, and Chicoutimi nearer still, with its
cathedral church and wooden residences and saw-
mills and piles of timber, whilst to the right a peep
of the falls could be seen, and the never-ceasing
roar of its water-floods came across to us.

AN INDIAN STORV.

Up the Chicoutimi River there is a portage called
the " Portage de I'Enfant." This is the Indian
origin. "A mother placed her babe in a birch-bark
canoe to be rocked by the waves, and tied the
canoe to the tree. How it broke loose in her
absence no one knows, but it did, and babe and
canoe were soon speeding swiftly towards a fifty-
feet descent, where the w^atcr fell almost perpen-
dicularly. How the little one escaped was miracu-
lous — but both canoe and babe passed over unhurt.
I wonder what sort of a man that red-skin babe
became ! So these falls have ever been thus known,
and as the Indians and voyageurs carry past their
canoes and baggage they recite to one another this
strange story."

DOWN Tin; rnx .iiTANR II i.T/.

The steamer can only get up at high water,
which here, although some 400 miles from the

DOWN THE riTCIlITANICIIETZ

ocean, makes a great difference. Slie can come
for an hour or two before higli tide, and stay an
hour or two after. Then she may have a good
deal of freight to land and also to take on board.
This may take an hour and a half, or she may be
off in a few minutes and leave you behind. The
best guide is the loud whistle which she blows as
she comes up near the town.

In expectation of my early departure I did not
sleep much, and at 3.45 a.m. I jumped out of bed,
and, looking out of my dormer window on to the
Saguenay, found the river blotted out by the
feathery mist filling its valley. Whilst I was dress-
incf, the river mist lifted and drove along the
current in white fleecy clouds, and by five o'clock
all was clear. At the quay 1 found an expectant
array of calcches, whose drivers were hoping to
get a fare apiece from visitors arriving by the
steamer. They were doomed to disappointment,
as the season had not set in yet.

A white horse, twenty head of cattle, and a
dozen sheep were some of my fellow-passengers,
but they were on the lower deck, whilst I had a
comfortable cabin, with large window, on the
higher deck. A waving of adieux took place. J.
and I knew not when or where we might meet
again, and the white handkerchiefs became smaller
and tinier till nothing could be distinguished.
Chicoutimi Cathedral and great red monastic build-
ings, and the many houses scattered over the
verdant hills, also diminished and sank as we
passed away along the Saguenay River on the
steamer Saguenay.

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BV OCEAN, PRAIRIE, AND PEAK

Professor Roberts says : " The Saguenay can
hardly be called a river. It is rather a stupendous
chasm from one to two miles in width, doubtless of
earthquake origin, cleft for sixty-five miles through
the high Laurentian plateau. Its walls arc an
almost unbroken line of naked cliffs of syenite and
gneiss. Its depth is many hundred feet greater
than that of the St. Lawrence ; indeed, if the St.
Lawrence drained dry, all the fleets of the world
micfht float in

THE ABYSS OF THE SAGUENAY.

and yet find anchorage only in a few places." It
is strange to find the bar of a river seventy miles
up from the mouth. We found a Government
dredger hard at work deepening the bar a few
miles below Chicoutimi. Here, no doubt, the vol-
canic chasm begins and the normal bed of the river
ends. There can be no bar on a river so far as it
is 2000 feet deep.

This strange river is the picture of solitude.
Even to-day, with a brilliant June sun, and lovely
sky dappled with cloudlets, we pass for miles and
scores of miles and see no sign of animal or human
Hfe. Not a bird, not even a sea-gull ; not a shanty
perched high on the cliffs a thousand feet high.
The water is the colour of thin bog water, and
owing to its depth it seems at first as black as
tar. As it is churned by our paddles or driven
back from the bows it is like diluted porter or like
brandy. It receives its colour from the inland
rivers which pass through swamps filled with

CAPE ETERNITY

moss and other highly-coloured roots and vege-
table matter.

Billions, trillions, quadrillions of fir trees, close
together, cover every yard of the cliffs, and are
perched far up in the air on the dizzy summits.
Here and there the hard rock juts out uncovered,
and sometimes it is rent from crest to base and a
watercourse is formed. Ha ! Ha ! Bay is a long
estuary running out on the south side of the
Saguenay, so like the river that the first explorers
sailed along it by mistake, thinking it was the
main channel. When they found themselves mis-
taken, it is said they had a good laugh, and the
memory of their mirth caused them to name the
inlet (some seven miles long) Ha ! Ha! Bay. About
nine o'clock we passed close in to Cape Trinity,
and then passed

CAPE ETERNITY.

These two capes are about 2000 feet from the
water's edge, it is said, and the water beneath is
nearly the same depth.

After about six hours' run down this mammoth
ship-canal, the Saguenay, we turned aside past a
little rocky islet into a fiord-like bay where a few
French Canadian folk- had their wooden houses, and
carried on lishing and some agriculture. It was
called St. Jean. It might have been in Norway.

There was a quay, and we landed and walked
about under the great cliffs, but there did not seem
to be a house where one could stay with any
comfort, though it is in the heart of this solemn

: n

BY OCEAN, PRAIRIE, AND TEAK

sccnci}, an amphitheatre of mountainous rock.
The remainder of the voyage was through won-
drous scenes, as we passed St. Louis Island,
and rounded I'oint Crepe into St. Etienne Bay,
where some sailing vessels were lying moored to
iron rings in the cliffs, as no anchor could be let
down 1000 feet, and so on until we approached
the mouth. Two rocky promontories guard the
exit as the dark waters of the Saguenay pass into
the lighter-coloured St. Lawrence, the Pointe aux
]5ouleaux on our right, and the Tointc aux Vaches
on the left. The latter (" Cow Cape ") was so called
after the numbers of the sea-cow which in the earlier
days swarmed here and were hunted by the Basques.
Now, as then, large schools of snorting grampus
often disport themselves upon the surface of the
water.

Tadousac, a small watering-place, fav^oured a
good deal by Lord Dufferin in the da}'s when he
was Viceroy, lies at the mouth of the .Saguenay.
We turned sharply out of the river into a little
rocky bay, whose clean cliffs seemed as if ever
washed and scoured b}' the sea water, and during
the hour that the steamer remained I walked with
two French Canadian fellow-passengers about a
mile to see the old Jesuit church. Here landed
Jacques Cartier in 1535, and here in 1639 came the
Jesuit fathers and began a mission, and erected, it
is said, the first church on the American continent.
What amazement would possess some of these
discoverers of three and four centuries ago if thev
could re-appear and see the great palace steamers
and the electric light at Quebec, ground out by the

CAPE ETERNITY

rushing waters of Montmorency, and the telephone
and the electric cars, and swift-speeding train with
parlour and sleeping cars !

We went into the Government hatchery— one of
about fifteen, I understand, in the Dominion. In
running fresh water the spawn had been carefully
looked" after for six months, and in these long
troughs were six million tiny salmon about half
the ^ize of a steel pen ! In cans they arc carefully
conveyed to the head waters of the scores of dif
ferent rivers, and there placed with much care ni
those streams. Where a few years ago scarcely a
salmon w^as to be found in some rivers, now
hundreds arc caught each season.

Before us now stretches the great St. Lawrence,
like another inland sea; on it several watering-
places, which we call at on our journey of more
than a hundred miles up to Quebec. The Canadians
lament their distance from the real sea. They have
to be content with riverside resorts, as the seaside
is often more than 500 miles away. They speak,
as I have said before, of going down to the salt
water— for of course the tide is here, and Tadousac,
Cacouna, Riviere de Loup, and Murray Bay are the
resort of the people of Montreal, Quebec, and the
country round, in the hot w^eather.

But now we leave behind the wondrous Saguenay,
and through the darkness our steamer speeds up
the great St. Lawrence to Quebec once more.

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Iff

CIIAPTER VI
The MANIT013A Mail

We continue our journey now with our emicrrant
party. The visit to the sights of Quebec and to
Lake St. John can of course only be taken when
the traveller has a few days to spare.

The advantage of travelling in a large vessel
like the Vancouver is, that a special train is made
up withni an hour or two of arrival, and all are
forwarded on to the Montreal Junction, where they
are attached that evening to the Trans-Continental
Mail. The scene at the C.P.R. Depot (railway
•station) is exciting, and to some very bewilder-
ing. The baggage of the emigrants is placed in
the huge baggage-cars, with the exception of the
small articles, which they take with them, I
advise those who are going long distances to get
out of their boxes all they need for the journey
and "check" the large things. You pay a small
sum and in exchange you receive a small brass
check, like this—

CAN. PAC. RV.

Eastern Division.

6223.

LOCAL.

EMIGRANTS' FIRST RIDK IN NEW COUNTRY 7 1

You say where your lui^gagc is to go to, and
when you arrive it is there, and dchvered to you
on presenting the check. There is at the Quebec
Station (Louise Basin) a refreshment room, where
provisions can be obtained for the long journey-
jars of marmalade, sausages, loaves of bread, potted
and tinned meats of all kinds, milk, etc., while a
notice is put up —

A SQUARE MEAL

I'OR

25 CENTS.

THE EMIGRANTS' FIRST RIDE IN THE NEW

COUNTRY.

It is some hours before we are ready to start.
At last the warning bell of the locomotive is
heard as we move, and, after provoking stoppages,
we pass away from the streets of Lower Quebec
behind the citadel, and are rattling at a very great
rate (forty-five miles an hour occasionally) through
a oreen country and fir forests. We are a long
tratn of ten cars in all, and as we speed along, we
leave a lingering track of smoke behind. An
official said to our engine-driver before starting,
''Now, Jack, you've got the road, don't get
mould'y." There is much eagerness as passengers
look at the new land. They see a horse and a
bullock yoked in the plough ; milking going on in
another field. We stop at a little picturesque

(■: '-ii]

nv OCEAN, J'RAlKIi:, AND I'KAK

French village, and chaff goes on between the
cniiL,rrants and the French folk.

We travel parallel to the great St. Lawrence
River, but at some distance, obtaining only oc-
casional glimpses. vSuddenly the cry went up,
''The Vanconirr!" There was the grand vessel
which had mounted the Atlantic rollers, now
making her way up the broad St. Lawrence, and
travelhng smoothly, and in a dignified fashion.
She will be in Montreal to-morrow morning.

The conductor of the train gave me these
statistics — •

1 engine, y large cars, 360 passengers.

Dcstifiaiions.

U.S.A., TvV? S. Ste. Marie

„ Winnipeg

,, \'ancouver
Total U.S.A.

<3(>
20

208

For Winnipeg and N.W.
„ JJritisli Columbia

„ Port Arthur
„ Montreal ...

105
10

-J

'5:

A MEAL BY THE WAV.

Every few hours the emigrant train comes to a
refreshment station. Such a one is the Three
Rivers, a pretty French town of 10,000 popu-
lation, half-way between Quebec and Montreal.
The long train pulled up, and nearly every one
turned out. For ten cents (5^.) we got a large

THE EMIGRANT TRAIN RY NlCllT /3

cup of tea .-I- coffee, and a plate of bread-and-
butter. Then wc had a chat on the pUitform, and
examined the engine.

THE CANADIAN NIGHTINGALE.

As evening twiHght deepened, we stayed by a
swamp and heard the voice of tlie '' Canadian
nightingale," viz. the "swamp frog!" This is too
familiar a sound in summer-time, and brings
sleepless nigats to those who live at the water's
edge, where the frogs sing in hundreds. The
fireflies here arc most ')cautiful ; they float in the
air in scores together, und are most brilHant ; we
watch them from the end of the car, and breathe
the cold, sweet air.

TilE EMIGRANT TRAIN RY NIGHT.

I walked along the lamp-lit cars about ten p.m.
to look for some of my Y.^I.C.A. friends, in
order that \re might sing a hymn and have prayer
together before turning in. I had to walk through
.seven cars of sleeping people ; some cars all
English, others with long-legged Scandinavians
lying across tlie floor ; children curled up on seats
or bundles, and some up in the bunks provided
by the Company, while the train went rattling on.

We had a little gathering before all turned in,
and from a colonists' car wont up our hymn and
petition— "Of Thy great mercy defend us from
all perils and dangers of this night, for the sake
of Thine only SoN, our Saviour jESUS CHRIST."

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mSSBSSSS^BmlF

l;V OCICAN, I'KAIklK, AND I'KAK

And so the loncf train of cars ruslicd aloiio- throui-h
the uliiht, and the same Goi) Who watched over
us on the broad Atlantic was with us still.

Flow Wr: SLIM'T ON Till'; CARS.

About ten every one has turned in, or is gcttin^i^
ready. Many have mattresses. They lay them
across the seats, which pull out and join one
another ; others let down a great hinged shelf,
which forms a bunk. I chose one of these upper
berths, and arranged my rugs and blew up my
air-pillow. It was difficult to get to sleep, and I
lay reading a book for a couple of hours. I slept
more or less from twelve to six a.m., and then got
u[). Soon every one was washing and getting into
trim order for the dav.

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TIIROUC;iI ONTARIO.

Rocks and lakes and fir trees. The lads of the
party cluster on the platforms at the ends of the
cars to watch the scenes flashing past. People are
forbidden to ride on the platform, but the Company
do not interfere, leaving the risk to passengers.
We came through Canada's political capital,
Ottawa city, during the night. It was too dark to
see the fine view of the Houses of Parliament and
the Chaudierc Falls. Each province has Home
Rule, and the United Parliament meets at Ottawa.
At T.55 on Tuesday we were five hours behind-
hand, owing to the great length and weight of the
train. We stop at North Bay, on Lake Nipissing,

MEALS ON TFIK CARS

a great sheet of water. Its further shores, with
fir-covered banks, are ten miles away; it is forty
miles loniT. Here the train had to be divided, to
enable us to keep up speed.

MEALS ON THE CARS.

Most of the emiLjrants provide themselves with
loaves of bread, tinned meats, bananas, apples, or
^.ranges. We take our meals in picnic fashion,
penknives and fi niters. Drinking-water is always
found at one end of the car, but a private drinking-
can is much needed. Those who wish to make
tea can obtain hot water in the dining-car free.

As to those luxurious hotels on wheels, they are
attached to the train first thing in the morning
and travel during the day. The waiting staff of
the dining-car consists of two cooks, three waiters,
one pantry-man, one conductor. A meal, whether
breakfast, dinner, or lunch, is seventy-five cents
(about 3^.). The cooking goes on while w^e are
travelling at full speed, and the meal is served hot.
You sit on comfortable broad seats, at firmly-fixed
tables, and the car is beautifully hung on springs,
so that you feel but little motion. The large
plate-glass windows give one a complete view of
the passing scenery, and an hour passes by agree-
ably when you have pleasant companions.

A COLT) NIGHT ON THE TRAIN.

Our second night on the cars was marked by
a keen frost, which we all felt intensely ; icicles

i;V OCKAN, riiAIRIK, AND PKAK

;■ !

V I

three iiiehes long hung from the windows outside.
On stopping at Win'te River, we rushed up and
down the wooden phitforni to produce circulation.
Our car is provided with double windows to resist
the frost, but we did not expect it, and left all
the ventilators open. We all longed for some hot
tea, but it could not be had at fix e o'clock in the
morning. More than t\.o hours after sunrise the
thermometer stood at thirty-fiy^^ degrees.

AN Ol'.JIl'.ISKWAV ENCAMl'MKNT.

About seven a.m. on our second day we pass a
large encan^pment of Indifins. On both sides of
the line, in a small opening in the fir forest, and on
the banks of a beautiful lake, were ten wigwams.
These tents were made of sheets of birch bark,
like the tents of tlic Samoyedcs, but less graceful.
Some of the Indians were engaged in building
canoes, some out on the lake fishing. The chief,
radiant in a brilliant head-dress, returned our
salute from the platform of the car. Tlie squaws
and boys took a great interest in the train as we
slowly passed them, while a papoose could be seen
strapped up like a chrysalis.

AN INLAND OCKAN.

At 8.15 a.m. on Wednesday morning (our second
day), we had our first view of Lake Superior, as
we skirted Pen'ibula Bay. Vast sheets of water
stretching to tiu- horizon, calm and placid in the
sunshine. We follow the shore of the lake, more

'i:

SKTUTINC, TIIK CJ^KAT LAKE

or less closely, for sixty miles, willi constantly
chanQinir views. Sometimes \vc travel on the
edge of a rocky precipice, sometimes cross a valley
on a lofty trestle-bridge, occasionally plunge into a
short tunnel, pierced through a promontory.

There i.-^ the boundless expanse of lake, whose
further shores are completely out of sight, in ever)'
respect like tiie sea, except tliat the water is fresh.

SKIRTINC; THE f'.KKAT EAKi:.

Jack-fish Bay, (mi Lake Superior's northern shores,
contains one of the most astounding sections of
this wonderful railway. Though the Rocky
Mountains arc more bcwilderingly grand, the
rugged ferocity of this part of the line to Winnipeg
is quite satisfying in its effect on the nerves.

Winter snow lies on the shores, and the bays arc
occasionally frozen over. White osprcy wheel
about the fir-clothed islets. Glints of sunshine play
on the lake, and rugged bands of cloud arc piled
along the horizon line, and clouds of steam occa-
sionally narrow down the view as we dart along
near the water's edge or climb up to dizzy Jicights
above and wheel round curling wooden trestle-
bridges. The sun shines in at one v/Indow, and
then in at the opposite. We dive into short
tunnels, pant along up grades, crawl over ravines,
r.ice along rocky cuttings, dodge round the backs
of promontories, and re-appear at the edge of the
sea.

Wc can sec our line across this arm of the sea
a mile away, but we travel five or six miles round

'•rl

IJY OCKAN, PRAIRIK, AND Pl-.AK

to the hc.id uf the water, whicli intrudes far up into
the rocky interior, and then we journey down
the other side. The wonch'ous sinuosities as we
wind round these great inlets surprise one into
exclamations.

PORT ARTHUR AND FORT WILLI AIM

We have come to the bei^innir " the West —
the gate of the West, as the inhabitants like to c;\U
it. On the second day from Montreal and the
third day from Quebec, we pull up at the first real
station, the first /o:u/i after scudding through
forests and pixst lakes and rivers. It is about
sixteen o'clock.

Port Arthur and Fort William and Fort William
West are three towns, but practically united, being
only a mile or two apart.

Fort Arthur is at the north of the great Lake
Superior, and here the grain from the north-west
is stored in great elevators. Here is a mammoth
grain elevator, belonging to the C.P.R. It receives
1,350,000 bushels at one time, and by machiner)-
inside the grain is always being moved, so that
it can never sprout or ferment. The grain is
brought here from Manitoba, etc., and shipped fruni
here to the United States and elsewhere.

Mackay Mountain dominates the neigh bourhoc;^^,
a dark mass of granite, shaped like Table Roc. ,
perhaps ^00 feet high are its cliffs. W^e put (/wr
watches back to Central time, an hour earlier than
the Montreal time.

SIR C.AKNKTS I'.OATS

SIR GARIVKTS P.(\\TS.

After supper at Savannc, \vc rolled away for a
twenty hours' run to Winnipeg;'. Just beyond the
station we saw the barges used in the expedition
ai^ainst Ricl, now rotting on the banks of a small
river. It was interesting;' to hear of those times
from men on the cars who had served in the
Rebellion.

Mrs. Grant, the manai;"eress of the refreshment
room, offered ten dollars a month and board and
lodging" to any member of my party w lio could
milk a cow and make himself generally useful.

When we had steamed away from the station,
one of the youths thought he would like the place,
so wc sent him back from Ignace by a freight
train.

Before he left we h.^d a farewell service on the
train. VVc gathered together as we had done cacli
evening for prayer and praise. I spoke a few
farewell words to thoi^e who had been my fellow-
travellers for so long- a distance, and endeavoured
in my last words to give earnestly a few last words
of advice, for they had had many during our
gatherings and services on the voyage. We sang
our last hymn ; had our last prayer ; for on the
next morning we all should separate to meet no
more. Some passengers joined us most reverently
m our service, and shook my hand warmly after. I
was very pleased to have the conductor with us.
He took off his official cap and sang most earnestly.
I asked all to accept the hymn-books we had used
as a memento of that farewell gathering.

V.y OCEAN, TRATRIE, AND PEAK

In the very early hours of the moniing \vc
crossed tlic l^ivor W^innipcg as it runs out of tlic
,I>ake of the Woods. ! must ask the reader to
alight with me and to spend a Sunday here, as I
did on another journey.

rOKTACl': LK RAT.

A curious name — Rat Portage ; but wo have
many curious names in the West. It is the name
of a town at the extremity of the picturesque Lake
of the Woods, said to have been the resort of in
Immense number of musk-rats at some time. I
sent a message from Whitewood Station —

Telegram.
"From Rev. A. A. ' To Rev. A. L. Fortin,

liodd)-. Rat Portage.

''Will help on Sunday. Meet train if accepting."

At a quarter to twelve on Saturday night, with
my baggage, I left the trans-continental express
and found myself welcomed to Rat Portage, and
driven off through the darkness to comfortable
quarters. I slept in a genuine bed, and awoke
on Whit-Sunday morning to sje the loveliness
of the Lake of the Woods, and its many islands.
Inclement weather, however, slight snowstorms
from time to time, and in the evening we found
ourselves back in mid-winter, everything white
under a garment of snow.

Tha': Whit-Sunday was a most enjoyable day.
As wc were about to enter the church for morning

I'OkTACii; LK RAT

service, we paused to appreciate the view. We
were near the summit of the hill above the town,
and far below that lay the waters of the lake, with
its islands. Th:: lake is about one hundred miles
in length, but comparatively little of it is seen at
once owing to the islands.

^lle service was most reverently conducted and
hearty; the hymns too brisk for congregational
singing ; this is sad, but the organist cannot see it.
lie is a good fellow in other respects. The wife of
the previous rector was burnt to death in the
church by the fall of a paraffin lamp during service.
A memorial window has been placed in the church
to her memory.

Across the lake to Keewatin in a small steamer
for the afternoon service. We took the choir and
organist with us. We sailed away through the
cold wind round rocky points, and near great
saw-mills and piles of sawdust and chips for
ever burning, the smoke sweeping across the
water.

We held our service in a TresbyLcrian church,
kindly lent to us. We waited till their Sunday
Sthool was over, and then we began. I was
pleased to see so many young men, and I endeav-
oured to speak straight to them.

What a Vv'alk home from Keewatin ! The steam-
boat could not sail for two hours, and we walked
along the Canadian Pacific Railroad.

So for miles, through cuttings and tunnel, over
two hig^h bridges with open trestle-work. We
stepped dizzily from beam to beam, and between
we saw the foaming- river dashing down a cataract.

I'.V OCKAN, PRAIRIE, AND PEAK

i: li

Their bridc^cs arc al\va)'s left open, like the joists of
an unfinished house.

wiirr-suNDAY ]Ai:.\i\(; ox iin.; [,aki; ok

Tin: WOODS.

The view from the rector's house extended over
great stretches of breeze-ruffled lake and rocky
stretches of wooded island, and included one of
the great steel bridc;es in the distance.

We aijain set off for church, where there was a
very large congregation, and the rector preached
from Acts i. 8—" Ye shall receive power, after that
the Holy Ghost is come upon you." Mr. I'\:)rtin
distinguished between "influence" and " po^\'er."
The apostles were not men of iuflncjia', but they
were men Q){ poivcr. IMcn have influence, and may
use it for or against the cause of CllRlST, but it
cannot be compared with power. \\q cannot all
get much injiucncc, but wc all receive power, after
that the HoLY GllOST comes upon us. A very
helpful sermon, and listened to with sustained and
rapt attention.

"May I ask if you arc from Sunderland, sir ? "
said a weather-beaten man, who had been at both
our services. " My name is Herbert C. Ritson,
and I am master of one of the lake steamers
sailing from this town," he added.

We had quite a Bishopwearmouth talk together,
and 1 received sundry messages for good folk
abiding near the mouth of the Wear. Mr. Ritson
had walked into the hotel and seen lying about
some localized Evangelists^ which I had placed on

'rMmt

SUNDAY NKUIT IN AN Or.JTl'.r.l'AVAV's HUT S3

the tabic, hoping they would be taken up by souk:
Western wanderers and reatl that Sunday morninL,^
Seeing " Monkwcarmouth " on the front he nave a
start, and turning up the visitors' book he found
my name.

SUNDAY NICIIT IN AN OP.Jir.P.FAVAV'S WKAVAM.

I noticed when in church a number of Indians
in the back seat, and especially one tall old man
who crazed stranc:elv at me when I was reading
the lesson. (3n inquiry i found that they were a
party of Christian Indians who had settled in the
outskirts of the town, on what is locally known as
" The Dump."

After evening service I found my way out tc>
them, as I was interested to see some who had
been brought out of heathenism into Christ's
kingdom. In the semi-darkness I discovered a
very low hut. It seemed only about four or five
feet high, as far as I can remember. I knocked
and entered. The air outside was cold and keen,
snow falling occasionally. The atmosphere inside
was heated up to eighty or ninety degrees by a
stove, and there was a smell of roast Indian, and
skins. Also I found the insects abounding, and
eager to make the acquaintance of an Englishman.
" Here," thought I to myself, " I realize something
of the minor trials of a missionary to the Indians
— he must be insect-proof."

A half-breed came in and interpreted for me.
In that tiny hut of one room there were eleven
persons, and such an odour of condensed Indian !

nv OCEAN, I'RAIRIE, AND PEAK

Let me forget all that now, and simply remember
that great, simple old redskin repeating, in Objib-
beway, the collect, "Lighten our darkness," and
then the Lord's Prayer. 15efore I left I said,
through the interpreter, ''I am going to kneel
down here in the middle of the hut, and you will
all kneel too, and I will pray for God's blessing
upon you."

All placed themselves in the attitude of prayer,
and I said, " Shall I pray that you may be success-
ful in fishing and shooting, or shall I ask GOD to
bless you in your souls?" The aged Indian
replied, " Pray for a blessing for the soul." I
prayed aloud in English and they all knelt around
me, and the half-breed told them how I asked GoD
to make them more and more steadfast, and so
with the blessing I left the. a.

They belonged to the Mission of the Rev.
Baptiste Spencc (an Indian pastor), some fifty
miles away, and though they could not under-
stand the service in iMiglish, they liked to worship
with their fellow-Christians on the Lord's Day,
and they know when the clergyman kneels down
that it is the time to pray.

All round we shook hands, and with Jacob
Linkater, my guide, we passed out of the heated
atmosphere into the snow-laden air.

* * * * * *

Now we rejoin our emigrant party on the last
stages of the journey to Manitoba.

Wi: KNTFU M WITOl'.A

'^5

WE ENTER MANIT01^\.

On the fourth clay from Quebec, at cii^ht p.m.,
we left the province of Ontario behind. \Vc had
travelled for more tban a thousand miles through
its interminable forests and along the shores of
its lakes, and now, at a station called Rennie, we
find ourselves in vast, far-stretching Manitoba ; the
forests tone down and the country becomes flatter.

All our colonists look out eagerly for the first
si<zns of cultivation. Officials who have come some
distance to meet us board the train, desirous to
give information to the immigrants as to places,
and as to land to be purchased.

Here is a card which is presented by Mr.
Smith : —

MANITOBA GOVERNMENT

Immigration and IntelliK''encc Offices,

Opposite to C.P.R. Depot, WinnipcK-

Reliable Information to intending Settlers.

Alex. S^^TH, Agent.

WINNIPEG,

On Friday morning our train ran out from the
forests on to the prairies, and soon a sprinkling of
shanties betokened our approach to a large town.
We ran along at a slackened speed, and the
conductor passed through the cars crying,
" Winnipeg ! All change cars."

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CIIAl'Tia^ VII

Winnipeg and tiik Prairiks

Till': <^ro\vth of Winnipeg,- from 200 souls in 1S70
to 30,000 or more in 1895 must have some
explanation.

It was formerly " Fort Garry," a station of the
Hudson }]n.y Company, and to the present day the
Hudson Bay Stores do an enormous business.
They are said to turn over a quarter of a million
sterling every year.

It is only ninety miles or so from the United
States boundary, with railway communication
tapping North Dakota and Minnesota, and com-
municating with St. Paul and Minneapolis. It is
connected by water with Lake Winnipeg — into
which the Red River flows. There is communi-
cation vm Norway House with Hudson Pay, and
by the Saskatchewan with the great North-West.
Lastly, the wonderful railway line of the C.P.R.
has placed Winnipeg as a half-way stopping-place
between the Atlantic and Pacific, and between
England and the h\ar East.

It is a strange mixture of shanties and magni-
ficent buildings. There are Chinese laundries, where
the busy Celestial is seen through the window

IMMKIKANTS IN MAMTol'.A

sprinklini^ a fine spray out of his mouth over the
hncn fronts wliich he is " i^cttin-- up." Inferior
Indians and half-brccds with Red River carts arc
slouchin^ir alon;j: the wood main street— 13^ *"^-^t
^viac— paved with cethir blocks and lii;lUed with
electricity. The town is built on a flat plain where
the Red River and the Assiniboine meet.

IMMIGRANTS IN MANITOBA.

Immigrants arc permitted to use the Govern-
ment Immigration Depot until they have some
place to go to. A family of Church folk, from the
S.S. Vancouver, soon settled down in the rough
quarters provided, and they made themselves fairly
comfortable. A large school-room, with spaces
about eight feet square partitioned off all round, was
supplied, but the accommodation was inferior to
that provided at Quebec.

In the spring-time, about the end of April, there
is generally a demand for country-men, but clerks
and shop hands have not much chance of getting
employment. There is a class of men who are
called "Remitters" or " Remittoance-men." They
are loafers who go round trying to negotiate loans.
They are always expecting a remittance in a few
posts from the old country. Winnipeg is not the
place to send the black sheep of the family t ;x It
should not be the terminus, but the starting-place.
For any one who will work there is work to be had
in the spring-time.

Tlv- Rev. II. T. Leslie, 219 Donald Street, is the
S.P.C.K. chaplain here, and he found places at

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WEBSTER NY )4580

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T5V OCKAN, rRAIKir., AND PKAK

once for all who were wi I liner to work on the land.
About five dollars a month (say £i is.) and boara
and lodL,n'n;^ is {riven to ^recn hands, viz. those who
know nothing of country life.

A iFAV HOURS IN wiNNirrc.

"Hallo! Mr. l-'irth, wherever ditl }'ou si)riniT
from .^ " 1 e.xclaimrd, as a well-known face came
beamin<; alonj^ IMain Street, under an American
hat and above lon.i; boots.

Some si.\ weeks before we had lost a i^encral
favourite from our church choir who had set off
to seek his fortunes in the West. He had j^onc to
lioisavain, but havinu^ been seized with sudden ill-
ness returned to W'innipefr after four days' ex-
perience of farm life. He had now obtained a
more congenial post in the city, owing to the kind-
ness of Canon rentrcathe.

We spent the afternoon together, and met with
a kind reception at 115 McWilliam Street, where
some of the pleasantest folk in Winnipeg board
young men at reasonable charges. (Note this
address.) Poor Fred T'irth passed away a few
months later, a victim, I believe, to pneumonia.
I am glad we had that time of prayer togetlicr in
his little room, with All Saints Almanac on the
wall.

With a )-oung friend from Sunderland we walked
out to call on the Archbishop of Rupert's Land,
Archbisho{) Machray. He lives about a mile to the
north of the railway station. 'J here is (juite a
striking cluster of Church buildings — the cathedral,

A Fi:\V HOURS IN WINNITKC

the Archbishop's house, the collei^c (St. John's), the
school, and the deanery. The Archbisliop was
mdst courteous, and took us all over the university
buildings, and inter alia we saw the room used
during the sitting of the House of Bishops of the
province of Rupert's Land. The bishops of his
province are the liishop of Moosonce, liisho[) of
Saskatchewan, the liishop of the McKenzie River,
the . jishop of Ou'Appelle, the Hishop of Athabasca,
the Bishop of Calgary (at present united with
Saskatchewan).

Winnipeg is rich in mud. The mud is of a
tenacious character, and it had the audacity to
seize and hold fast an ICpiscopal golosh, or
Canadian overshoe. It is really trying when
crossing a muddy road to have one's overshoe
rudely plucked off, but its (jwner was very good-
natured.

Had a talk with Mr. Copeland, who was to find
places for all the Y.M.C.A. youths on the Monday.
They stayed meanwhile at the New Douglas.

I walked out to Armstrong Point to call upon
Mr. luicn, brother of the JJishop of Dover, who
lives in a pretty house among the trees in the
pleasantest suburb of Winnipeg, but too well
furnished w'ith mosquitoes.

There is a great demand for first-rate servants
here as in Victoria. ^"36 per annum is given for
a thoroughly competent woman ; but then often
only one maid is kept, and, with occasional help
from the mistress, she has to do everything.

" I shall want two afternoons a week for practis-
ing my guitar," said a damsel the other week, to

nV OCEAN, PRAIRIE, AND TEAK

.'I lady here wlio was on the poiiU of cnj^aging
her as her servant. Neither the mistress nor her
husband, however, could rcsip^n themselves to the
constant tu'an;4ing of the dulcet banjo, and so
negotiations fell throui^h.

Some of the servants diess up so ridiculously
when out for the cveninfj^, that one pities them.
They evidently wish to be mistaken for their
mistresses.

Let me give a kindly word of advice to those
who think seriously of going out to engage in
service in Canada. They will siinply be invaluable
if they do not allow their heads to be turned, but
behave as modest girls do in ICngland. What a
comfort to some of the iMiLrlish ladies would a
faithful maid be out in the West! Really good
servants are much wanted. It is quite natural fur
many of them to wish to marry and settle down
in a home of their own, but they should be very
careful whom they marr)-.

ON TIIK PRAIRIES.

We left Winnij)eg for the Vav West in the after-
noon, and our long, heavy train, crowded with
immigrants and Ontario farmers who had come to
view the land, rolled out into the prairies.

Flat — flat as Holland — flat as a calm sea, the
great prairies, these stij^pcs of Manitoba, stretch as
far as eye can see. White farm-houses at great
distances on the liorizon are seen, miles and miles
from each iither. Cattle grazing look up lazily
or trot across the line in front of the threatening

ON TlIK PKAIKIKS

cow-catcher as our train sweeps by. And wc do
sweep ! Near \Vinnii)e^ there are fewer farms th.in
further on, cwiiiLj to tlie " Land IJoom." vSi)ecidators
bout^lit up the land round \Vinni|)ei; some )ears
aj;o, in the hope of selHiiLj attain at hiy;li prices, and
they hold tlie land still in that hope.

At I'ortaiTC-la-Prairie we saw about fifteen Indian
tents, belong! ni^ to the Sioux tribe. We were told
tli.it they came from under the shadow of the Stars
and Stri[)es to live under the Uiu'on Jack. My
friend G. O. had the honour of su[){)lyinfT a Sioux
at the station with enough tobacco to serve a red
man forty-eight hours.

At Portage-la-Pn irie we lost some more of our
party going to Rapid Cit)', on the Manitoba and
N.W.T. Railway. This is the railway which en-
deavoured to cross the Canailian Pacific Line, ami
almost caused a veritable railway war.

The platelayers here (or " const ructii)n men " as
they are called) have a truck or trolley which works
like a velocipede. They all stand on the truck and
work a double handle up and down like a fire-
engine. It is called the hand-car. Some of the
insjicctors have a tric)cle which runs on the rails
on a similar principle, and is just intended for one
person.

At the eighty-seventh mile from W'mnipeg the
country becomes undulating and wooded, and tlie
scenery quite English.

r.V OCKAN, I'RAIKIK, AND PKAK

OUR PICNICS ON TIIK CARS.

• Speeding over the plains of Manitoba we had to
support nature at the usual hours. One of our
party was an excellent chef, and laid the cloth (a
towel) in correct style on the seat, a tin gill can, a
flowered white cup, and a Devonshire cream jug ;
one spoon, one kin'fe, a loaf, some coffee, canned
brawn, and canned beef The motto of the salmon
canneries of liritish Columbia is, " We cat all we
can, andivJiat ivc can't, wc Can." At some stations
we bought milk fresh from the prairie cow at five
cents a glass.

URANDON AND VIRDKN.

At eight p.m., Friday night (fifth day from
Quebec), we arrived at Brandon, the centre of the
wheat-growing district. A great crowd of sunburnt
farmers and labourers filled the platform and
inspected the new arrivals. None of our party
were etigaged to come here, as we imderstood most
of the places were filled up for this year. Seven
or eight of the Y.M.C.A. friends were to leave the
cars at Wolseley at midnight.

At eight o'clock we were at Virden, where my
friend G. Outram was to alight, his long journey
being ended. The country round is undulating
and fairly wooded, lie was to go to a farm seven
miles to the southward, to spend a year in getting
experience. A friend met him at the station, and
we all bade him " good-bye " after a companionship

III

()U API'I'.LM':

of nearly 5000 miles since the afternoon wiicii his
father and sisters waved adieu to him from the
tender on the River Mersey fifteen days ago. At

Tllli BRANUON RAILWAY DIil'6T.

Wolseley other young friends left us, having
obtained engagements through the mayor of that
place. Letters from these friends will be found at
the close of this chapter.

OU Al'PELLK.

*• Who calls "i " That, vvc are told in local records,
is the meaning of the name of this town, and a
legend gives us the reason wh)'.

15V 0( F.AN, I'KAIklK, AN' I) I'EAK

A \'()uiic]|; hiavc was dcscculinc: the swift-llowin*!
river in Isis canoe to seek his dusky bride. Passinj^
a small wood at ni^^lit, he heard his name repeated
aijain and again. He cried out each time, " Who
calls?'' recuiinizincr the voice of her who was soon
to be his bride. At early sunrise, as he approached
the camp where she lived, he heard the death songs
of her people around her tent, and knew she had
gone to the Island of the Idlest. They told him
that the previous night she had again and again
repeated his name ere her s[)irit fled.

CHURCH WORK IN QU'Arri- LLU.

Ou'Appelle, at one time called Troy, is a small
prairie town of some 500 inhabitants, with a
substantial church (the pro-cathedral), and Roman
and Methodist places of worship. The Hishop of
the diocese Jives about a mile and a hilf from the
station.

On one occasion I left the cars here and walked
over the prairies to see the l^ishop. There were
many impudent specimens of the gopher tribe
peeping out of their holes, and a great hawk
endeavouring to secure one of these wily rodents
for an afternoon meal.

A school is at one side of the Bishop's house, and
an agricultural college at the other. The Bishop
was interested to hear that 1 had officiated in his
diocese, and told me something of the nature and

Tin: NORTH-WKST MOUNTKD I'OMCK

extent of the work here, «i.s he accompanied ine
back across tlic prairie.

In the cveninj:^ there was choral TA-ensont^ at
" 19.30" in tlic pro-cathedral. The Rev. M.
Krauss, principal of the college (formerly cur.itc at
IIoii[^liton-lc-.SprintT, in this county of Durham),
intoned, and two lay-brothers read the lessons. It
was refresh incf to see such a irood concfreLration
on a " week-day " afternoon, and such a large pro-
portion of young men.

A good numl)er of children from ICngland, I was
told, are willingly adopted in this district by
respectable people. They grow up to be happy
and useful as a rule.

THE NORTII-WI'Sr MOUNTi:i) POLICE.

The N.W.M.r. are a fine set of men physically.
They attract our attention throughout the "Terri-
tories " in their brilliant red short jackets, and dark
blue riding breeches with yellow stripes, long boots,
faultlessly polished, burnished spurs, white gaunt-
lets, and forage cap set jauntily " on three hairs."
Many of the men are of fairly good English
extraction.

Their liead-quarters are at Regina, but small
detachments arc stationed at all important settle-
ments and reserves in the Territories. At the
Palmer House, where I stayed at Qu'Appelle, three
or four red-coats sat down to dinner, and had a
good deal of military chaff at each other's expense.
They wear a very becoming fur costume in winter,
which gives them an Austrian Hussar appearance.

i;v ()( i:an. I'kAikir.. and tkak

liitr. hatidsoinc fellows, some of whom dislike the

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1 •

1 ''

t,>-.. . ,

rfi "
p. t

tcetotalism they arc compelled to enforce on others.
Life ill the N.W.M.P. is made ii[) of a combina-
tion of c.ivalry and police duties — keeping the
Indians in order, and keeping contraband drink
out of the Territories.

d to spill thj licpior wherever

ley are sup[)ose

found, and in winter, when spirits have been run
out on the snow, enthusiastic lovers of alcohol
among the Indians have been seen scrapiig up
the spirit-soaked snow and devouring it. Though
the mcinbcMs of the N. W.M.I*, arc said by candid
resiilents to have their frailties, they are the greatest
protection to the Territories. Those amongst our
readers who can cjbtain a copy of Trooper and
Rcdskhi, by the late Mr. Donkin, published by
Sampson Low, Marston & Co., will find delij^htful
dcscripi'ons of the scenery of the North-West and
of the life of the troopers.

MOOSKJAW.

One thousand nine hundred and ninety-four
miles from Quebec. At six o'clock on Saturday
morning (six days from Quebec) we were in the
centre of the great territory of Assiniboia, and we
stopped at a station in the middle of the prairie,
called by an abbreviation of this Lidian name,
which is, in full, " Thc-crcck-wJicrc-tJic-WJiitc-Mau-
inendcd-iiis-cart-ivitJi-tJic-jinv-of-a-]\Ioos€y This was
too much for the railway officials to call out, so they
only gave us " Moosejaw."

We had an inferior, expensive, and hurried fifty-

MOOS F,? AW

cent breakfast, and as the train bc^an to move, we
left the tables and juinprd on tlie cars aj^ain. As
speed was gettinj^ up we saw two tame deer
tethered by ropes, and further on a herd of ante-
lopes which had come down to a pool to drink
— they bounded away at a f^reat rate.

The country here for miles and miles is unin-
habitetl, waitin<4 for settlers. Tiiere is room,
literally, for millions of people. Rollini,^ prairie
land ; splendid grazing country. No signs of
human life. Twenty miles between the section-
houses on the line, and no other houses at all.
In the middle of this wild country we came to a
siding where a freight train was waiting for us to
pass ; also a dining car, with cook and waiters,
who had sle[)t all night in the sohtude of the vast
prairie.

Buffaloes (or more properly r>isflus) but a few
years ago overran the prairie here in vast herds.
Millions of them have been destroyed most ruth-
lessly, and now not one is left in a wild state.
There is a tame herd near Winnipeg. They are
kei)t at Stony Mountain, some twelve miles north
of the city. They are the pro[)erty of the governor
of the penitentiary. It is a favourite drive out to
see them.

The prairies are reticulated with buffalo trails,
and constantly we see a circular shallow basin
where they used to wallow in the mud. The
prairies are pitted with these " wallows."

ItV 0( KAN, rUAIKIK, AND PKAK

OLD WIVKS LAKK.— ASSINinOIA.

An immense sheet of water (alkaline) lies to the
south of the line, huge and lonely. It is known as
the Old Wives Lake. I do not know how it ac-
quired the name: perhaps the Indians used to
dispose of their old wives in it. Heavy clouds
hang over the prairie, with a continuous fall of
cold rain. Wild birds rise from the marshes as
we pass.

A twenty-mile run and then we come to a
section-house. Here is a coal depot for the loco-
motives, and one f the gigantic barrel-like water-
tanks. Also a telegraph station and a rude book-
ing office. Mere the officials live an out-of-thc-
world existence. This endless prairie is just as
wonderful as the thousand miles of rock and forest
in Ontario.

We sec a prairie wolf watching the graceful
antelopes as they trot away from the train ; not
one seemed to realize the peril from such a prox-
imity. The alkaline lake reminds me of similar
lakes on the Tunisian Sahel, in North Africa, called
schotts. At Bush Lake the marshes were filled
with wild fowl ; we were told that the president
of the line (Sir William C. Van Home) comes here
for shooting.

AN UNLIKELY TAIL(!)

The prairie marmot (the gopher) everywhere
sits above its little home burrowed out of the earth,

TRADING WITH CUKK INDIANS

and stares stupidly for awhile at the carr., a:\I
suddenly disappears below.

These gophers are very destriictive. I was told
that a high priee \\d offered by the authorities
for their tails. lUit iliey diseovered that the
Indians cut off the *^ails and let them grow again,
in the hope of a second reward ! ! ! Then the
Government insisted Mpun having the head also.
Thismust, indeed, be a wonderful country for crops,
when even amputated g(jphers' tails will sprout

agam

TRADING WITH CRKK INDIANS.

We saw the tepees of an Indian encami>mcnt as
we approached Swift Current, and found a dozen
or so at the station who had brought down bison
horns to sell. Though the bison is nearly extinct
in the North-west Territory, these Indians in Assi-
niboia know where to find skeletons and horns.
Clever people say they are only cows' horns.

Some are very pleasant, sensible-looking men
and women, and one of the handsomest wore his
jet-black locks hanging in plaits over a bronzed
face. He bore the name of "The Thief," or
" Rogue." From him I bought a fine set of horns,
at a price considerably below that which he at first
asked.

My friend ** The Rogue " was dressed in true
Indian fashion — moccasins, blanket, etc. I exi)ect
he would, under different circumstances, have
found much pleasure in scalping me in another way.
I bought another pair from one of the women.

100

BY OCEAN, PRAIRIE, AND PEAK

Jravcllcr (looJxiug at horns) : How much ?

Squaiv {lioldini^- up one fiiigcr) : One dollar.

T:\,vellcr {crossing tivo fini^cvs) : No; fifty cents.

All lau<^hcd and shook their heads. I held out
three "bits" (each twenty five cents). Heads
shaken eigain. Train moves slowly, enijine bell
swinging. Three "bits" still held out. Horns
handed over, and money secured just in time to
jump on board as speed increases. Artful Indian !

We have now covered 2,000 miles, and constantly
see the tents or tepees of the Indians, and meet
them at every station.

' J

•1:

THE NEWSAGENT.

On every train running a long journey on this
continent, you have constant inducements to open
your purse. There is generally a )'outh licensed
by the Company to sell papers, books, and eatables
to the passengers. He gets twenty cents on eacli
dollar he turns over. That is, twenty per cent. (A
dollar contains 100 cents.)

From Winnipeg we had a delicious youth, by
name P. Venrbles. He started round first with
bundles of newspapers. "Full account of burning
of Seattle." Came back whistling, and set out
with basket of oranges. Went down the Vv'hole
length of the train with a pleasant bow and a
never-desponding air, and then started with lemon-
ade and ginger ale. Once more with large photo-
graphs of scenes on the lines, and descriptive
guides. Always smiling — sometimes naughty; too
ready to meet chaff by chaff of a similar kind.

Eii

MKOiriNK HAT

lOl

Though apparently frivolous, he had his better
side, and we had a serious chat together before we
parted. He is an ICnglish youth. He came out
with his two brothers, and worked on the railway
when in construction. ]5ut he finds his present
work, as he says, " the best paying thing on the
line." He is good-looking, and very "casual " — as
wc say, a regular happy-go-lucky.

MEDICINE HAT.

Two thousand two hundred and fifty-three miles
from Quebec. We ran down from the prairie into
a valley cut out by the winding Saskatchewan
River, and found ourselves in a basin some miles
across, surrounded by high cliffs. An oasis on this
never-ending prairie.

We have travelled the lenc^th of Ensjland and
only seen a dozen or two houses ! I lere is a bright-
looking little town, below the level of the prairie,
in the mild belt of the "Chinook" wind, as it
is called, which wafts from the Pacific Gulf
Stream.

•1

A iiAikv r.EAk.

Here wc were greeted by a brown bear who was
delighted to make our acquaintance. I le was
captured by some Indians a few miles to the
north, and was fastened by a chain to a stout
post. He reminded me of a young bruin at
Krasnoe Selo, called Michael. He was a big
fellow, and sat up waiting eagerly for biscuits

Pacific N.W. History D-pt

PROVINCIAL- LIBRARY
VICTORIA, B. C.

102

l!V OCEAN, I'RAIKIK, AM) I'KAK

from the passcni^ers, who liad Iialfan-hour to wait
here. Then he would rush off excitedly at full
gallop round the post. The C.P.R. officials have
a garden here, planted with flowers in the shape of
letters which spell

and other railway names, local or central.

Here is the great iron railway bridge over the
Saskatchewan which you see in pictures. An un-
fortunate Icelander was killed here last Sunday
evening. After the train for the- West had started,
he thouglit his luggage was left in the train, so, not
wishing to be parted from it, he ran and jumped
on the Pullman car, which is always at the end.

THE ICELANDER.

He struck his head severely and cut it open;
and bleeding profusely, he staggered down the
cars, passing through the Pullman, the first-class,
and two colonist cars, when he must have fainted
from loss of blood, for he fell between, and both
legs were taken off. The train was by this time
half over the bridge ; it stopped, and the poor man
was taken back. He lived but a short time. No
one could understand his language, but he could
just say, " Poor Icelander, him sick ; " and so the
poor Icelander died. He had come to work on
the railway in a construction gang. The clergy-
man in charge, the Rev. W. G. Lyon, buried him
on the hillside the same evening.

in.

TIIK PKACEFUL RIVER

103

A CLKKGY HOUSE IN TIIK NORTH-WEST.

The Rev. Walter G. Lyon, the then priest-in-
charge of the mission at Medicine Hat, was glad
to hear that he could have help on Sunday, lie
went sixty-seven miles to take a morning service
at an outlying chapel at Maple Creek ; there could
have been no morning service at St. Barnabas had
I not taken it.

So I left my friends in the cars — there were still
six of those who crossed with me — and taking
Francis Dockerill with me, my last special charge
after Calgary, I went up to the clergy-house.

THE PEACEFUL RIVER.

The Saskatchewan flowed beneath the windows
of the wooden bungalow. Inside were shelves of
well-chosen books, a good library of theology, wolf-
skins, whips, mosquito nets, bath, boxes, wooden
plank walls ornamented with Scriptural pictures.
A general air of comfort and refinement, yet a
glance reminded one of the region we were in.
The tinkling bell of wandering cattle came across
the broad rive/, borne on the clear resonant air ;
but all was repose and quiet. The lovely scene
in the setting sunlight, the distant cliffs, as lovely
as in Italy or Tripoli, showed one how clear and
pure the air was.

104

15Y OCEAN, I'RAIKIK, AM) PKAK

I' : )

OUR WALK ROUND "TIIK HAT."

"Tlic Hat" is the sliort name by which the
ijihabitants prefer to speak of their town — Medicine
Mat (population 700).

We went into the Round House, where the
locomotives rest after their long journeys, and where
they receive a good rub down. The cleaners told
mc they got much dirtier here than in the old
country, because there is so much dust, and no
cinder ballast. We rode on an inspector's tricycle
such as we saw at Fort William, and got up a great
speed on the metals. There is but one passenger
train each way a day, and a few freight trains, so
we ran no risk in flying along the metals.

Near the depot, or railway-station, was a huge
pile of

Buffalo Boues,

gathered on the prairies by the Indians, who receive
about £\ per ton for them. They are sent off
to sugar refmers, and after being ground are used
as filters for the sugar. I picked out two buffalo
skulls with horns attached, and had them packed
to take back to luigland. (They are now in two
luiglish vicarages.)

We then visited some Indian and half-breed
tents, and saw them stretching hides. I dined
with Mr. Fatt, who acts as lay-reader with the
Rev. W. G. Lyon, and gained much information
on various subjects.

\L::

SUNDAY IN A rUAIKIK CITY

SUNDAY IN A I'RAIRIK CITY.

105

On awakincr this moniinc^ it took mc some time
to understand where I *\vas, I saw no slcepini^
passengers around, and all was still. "Has the
train stopped at some station, and liaYe all the
passengers got out and left me alone ? " I thought
sleepily. Then it dawned upon me that I w.'s
no longer in the cars, but in a " shack," on the
high banks of the great Saskatchewan, whose
waters flow from the Rocky Mountains into Lake
Winnipeg.

A lovely church, where everything is ordered
most distinctly on "Church" lines, an attentive
congregation, who joined heartily in the singing,
and especially in the Vcwii Creator Spiritus —

"Come, Holy (ihost, our hearts inspire,
And lij^liten with celestial fire."

At our Celebration, out of fourteen communicants,
twelve were men — a good sign in this western
town. I had with me two watches — mv own,
which I did not alter, and a borrowed one, which
each day as I travelled west I turned back and
back. It was 7.20 p.m. by the watch which still
kept English time, when our morning service
ended. The difference between English and N.W.
Territory time is seven hours ; Iwensong was going
on in All Saints' Church at Monkwearmouth when
I pronounced the Benediction at morning service
on the prairies. We had a children's service at
three p.m. I had some bright-eyed little Canadian

' I

io6

\\\ OCEAN, I'RAIKIK, AND PEAK

and ICnglish cliildrcn to speak to, and among them
a dark-skinned little half-breed c[irl.

Before leaving the prairies it may be well to give
the opinions of some of those who travelled with nie
from Liverpool. They left me at Winnipeg and
at various points beyond, and in response to my
request wrote to me a month or two afterwards,
stating the results of their experience. The first
letter is from a clergyman's son —

WHAT MR. OUTRAM SAYS:

" I like the life out here very much so far, and
shall like it much better when I have a farm of
my own. I am not receiving any pay, but I could
easily get a place on a farm, and make from ten
to fifteen dollars per month. I shall stay here
till next April, I think. I have purchased a
quarter section of land from the C.P.R., about a
mile north from here. You ask me what are the
prospects of the country ? Well, I can hardly tell
you. I think if a fellow is steady he can soon
make a good living ; all the free lands are taken
up in this neighbourhood, but further west there
arc lots of homesteads to be taken up. The
weather is beginning to get colder now (Sept. 6).
I much prefer it to the hot weather of the last
three months.

*' A. F. H. OUTRAM,
" Deer Far.m,

" VlRDEN, MANITODA."

v»

LKTTKK FROM J. H. HANNAH

107

*' CoLDsi'KiNc, Farm,

"Eij.isHORo', Canaka, NAV.r.

"Dear Sh<,

"Tlioiij^li behind in writiiif^ you, my
opinion of the country is not one whit bcliind that
of the others.

"I arrived at Wolseley on June S, and was
cngai^ed to a farmer the same afternoon. I am

y^:r

A MAMTOIiA HOMESTEAD.

very comfortably situated on a farm of 640 acres
in the Ou'Appclle Valley, eight miles north of
Wolseley.

" I like the country and the work very much. I
have been able to do all the work I have had
given me to do, and so far I don't think I have
had to work any harder than in England (I was
in a shop in London), and I would not go back
to England to earn my living if I had the oppor-
tunity. I think I have had much the same
work as other young fellows— helping make roads,
putting up fences, ploughing (which I learned in

ro8

r.Y OCr.AN, PRATRTE, AND TEAK

half II day), harvesting, haymakiiifr, etc. I am also
glad to be able to say that my employer is very
well satisfied with me.

"Taking it on the whole, my opinion is that it
is a grand country, and has good prospects for a
young fellov willing and able to work, and when
he arrives noc be surprised because he has to work.

** Moping you are quite well,

" I remain, dear Sir, yours truly,
"John H. Hannah."

" Post Office, Loklik,

" AssiNir.oiA, Canada.

"Dear Mr. 15oddv,

"It is with great pleasure I write you a
few lines in accordance with your wish. I am in a
fairly good situation, with a Christian family, living
about thirty miles north of Indian Head, on the
C.P.R. — our nearest market town comprising about
200 inhabitants. My hours for work arc rather long,
and last from five a.m. till eight p.m., but I gener-
ally get one hour's rest after dinner. I enjoy my
work very much, though some of it is very hard,
especially the building part. The country has a
very wild and bare appearance, it being nothing
but a wide rolling prairie ; but there are a few
pretty French towns to be seen along the C.P.R.

" To every young man who has any thought of
coming to this country, I would utter a word of
warning against deciding too rashly. Many have
done this, and come out here with wrong impres-
sions of what the country and farm life arc like ;
the consequence of which has been constant dis-

y I

LETTER FROM II. \V. HILLMAN

109

'«

appointment, and a desire to return to the 'old
country.' Only lately, I heard of a clergyman's
son who came out here with a few hundred pounds,
thinking that he would be able to live a tolerably
easy life ; but finding out his mistake, and tLat
there were hardships to endure, he became dis-
appointed, and at last went out of his mind.

"On coming out here, every young man ought to
be prepared for three things, namely— hard work,
a humble life in a log cabin, and to forecfo all
public amusements. If I had not prepared myself
for these things before I left Kngland, I should
have broken down a long time ago. As it is, I am
very happy. There is plenty of work to be had
out here, but the spring is the best time to come
out, because by so doing one stands a better chance
of securing a home for the winter. The wages
paid to beginners is generally five dollars per
month, except during the winter, when they receive
merely their board and lodging. The younger a
man is when he comes out here, the better are his
prospects for the future. The weather varies a
great deal here ; one week it is very cold, and we
get sixteen degrees of frost in one day ; another
week it is very hot, and the thermometer registers
ninety degrees. We have just finished harvesting,
and are looking forward to a winter of forty degrees
below zero.

"Again thanking you for your kindness on board
the ship, 1 remain,

" Yours truly,

" H. VV. HiLLMAN."

1 10

I'.V OCKAN. rRAIRIK, AND I'KAK

1 1

" Watisvikw, P.O.. M.wrron.v, C.xnad.n,
'.'DKAR MK. lioDDV,

" I have sent on llic Reply Post Cards
giving you the acklrcs.ses of some of our party, and
hope you will get them all right. I have, been
here a month now, and am getting on first-rate.
It is a very pretty district, our house standing on
one side of a valley, through which flows a small
river. If you have ever been at Jesmond Dene,
Newcastle, you will have a fair idea of what this
place is like, the only difference being the trees,
wdu'ch are not near as large. These people are
English, and have been here nine years, and they
own 800 acres of land, and are pretty well-to-do.
We work early and late, rising about 5.30 a.m., and
finishing about eleven p.m. I think I had better
give you an account of a da)''s work as near as
possible.

lij

" A DAV'.S WORK.

" Rise at 5.30, milk cows (five in number), feed
calves and horses (eleven in number), then have
breakfast at about seven o'clock, after which we have
a chapter and prayer, then turn out the cows, then
down to the river with the horses and water them,
then we cut some wood for household purposes,
and if water is needed we go back to the river
with the team and barrels, and then go out to
harvest, or hay, whichever we may be working at.
We come back at about 12.30 for dinner, and then

.■\

LKTTKk KKOM W. |. Uri-D

I I I

out to tlic fields ai^ain until about ci<;lit p.m., and
have supper, then seek cows and milk, feed calves
and horses ai];ain, and see that evervtln'nir is safe
for the nifj^ht. Then comes the time for another
chapter and prayer, and so ends a rather lont; day.

" WHAT \VK KAT.

•

** Food consists of bread-and-butter, or rather
butter-and-bread (plenty of butter), fried potat(jes,
boiled eggs and tea for breakfast. Dinner — boiled
potatoes (hot), butter-and-bread, fried eggs, and
rice or tapioca-pudding, and tea. .V/z/yr/— butter-
and-bread, jam, cold potatoes, raw onions (not
many ladies about to smell your breath), cakes,
and tea ; so you see we don't do so far amiss.
Wages according to ability, from five to thirty
dollars per month. Greenhorns get five to eight
dollars. I had five dollars at my old place, but
have fourteen here, and expect to get twenty before
long. You see, I am a joiner, and have an exten-
sive knowledge of horses and cattle. Any one
with a trade can get on well here, but you have
to work, and no mistake. My friend, Miller, says
he would rather drive a team of oxen than drive a
pen. He was a clerk in London. T have broken
in two horses since I came here, a. u one at the
old place. Some young fellows do nothing else
but herd cattle on horseback.

"WHAT TO TAKE WITH VOU.

" Now about what to bring and not to bring.
Plenty of woollen underclothing and corduroy, of

I 12

I'.V OCEAN, r'KAIKIK, AND PEAK

moleskin suits, but (fo/i'l brinc^ heavy boots ; top
boots are needed on account of lon^j grass in wet
wcatlier. You cannot wear heavy boots at all,
cither suinincr or winter, I'm told. You want a
skin cap which will come down over the ears for
winter, lie sure and bring your tools, as tools arc
expensive here. Don't bring a gun or pistol, as
there is no need for them ; you can easily get the
loan of the farmer's. You have no time for shoot-
ing in the summer. When you come, come to
I\Ianitoba, and have no less than ;!6'io in your
pocket when you arrive at Quebec, unless you
know where you are going to. Don't send your
luggage on beforehand ; have it with you and watch
it as much as possible. Strong clothes and water-
tight boots as thin as possible are what you want.
Plenty of good land open to homesteading about
here, but be twelve months on a farm before taking
up land. Don't gossip or you will come to grief.
Take r 11 in and say nothing to any one, as you
don't 1 low who you arc talking to.

"AN ENTHUSIASTIC VERDICT.

" A' d now, Mr. Boddy, I think farming in Mani-
toba is the most independent life a fellow can lead
when he has a place of his own. It only needs
work and patience and you will succeed. I will,
if you wish, write you again, giving more particulars.

" I am,

" W. J. Reed/'

CHAPTER VI 1 1
In Till-: Land ok tiik Redskin

TlIK prairie has lost its llatncss. Rolliiii^ uiulii-
lations now meet the eye. In the distance the
snowy peaks of the Roekies can be seen, and
nearer to us the Foot Hills. Let us ali-ht toL^ether
at Calvary, where the train stops in the middle of

the nii^ht.

I had promised to help the worthy rector, Rev.
A. W. F. Cooper, and, havin<;- arrived late on
Saturday night, 1 took i)art in the morning service
in the pro-cathedral. Ik-autiful prairie flowers filled
the vases, and a squad of wild Blackfeet Indians
trotted by as wc went into the wooden church, all
gay in blankets and feathers, and the squaws
dragging the tents behind their ponies.

The service was most enjoyable, and a good
number of communicants, among them the wife
and daughter of Bishop Tinkham, the liishop of
Saskatchewan and Calgary, the Bishop himself
being on a long journey in the northern part of
his diocese.

SUNDAY INCIDENTS.

In the afternoon Mr. Cooper buried on the

prairie a poor young fellow, only a fortnight out
^ H

III!

114

I'.V (KKAN, rKAIKIK, AND PEAK

from luigland. He had, it was conjectured, fallen
from his horse after sunstroke ; and w'^on found,
his poor body had for hours been dragi^ed about
on the prairie by the " lariat," which he had
fastened to hjs wrist. Sad end to all his hopes
and plans.

We had a good evening service at ninctcoi o'clock
(seven p.m.) in the pro-cathedral, where I preached,
and had in the congregation a friend from Sunder-
land who had not found suitable work and was
somewhat disheartened. The pretty church was
well filled with a hearty gathering from the town
and the country round.

Another emigrant friend, Mr. F. Bernard, drove
me in his smart rig-out to his father's house,
beautifully situated in district "Sixteen," near the
Bow and Elbow Riv^ers. It was most interesting
to see an ocean friend settled down now in his
Western home ; to find that every one turned to
and worked — brothers and sisters alike ready for
anything. We wandered over the farm land and
saw the wooden buildings, and then as darkness
came on we gathered in the house and had supper
together. I walked back three miles along the
railway line to the town alone in the deep twilight,
and solemn thoughts came in during those long
dark miles over the vast and solitary prairie that
Sunday night.

Calgary is largely a town of single men. It is
the metropolis of the ranching district, and yet has
a very unfinished look. Mr. Cainc said — '* It is
exactly like a great international Exhibition a
week or two before the opening day."

A LETTER EROM CALGARY

115

The bell which had called us to worship to-day
was given by the Mounted Police. This is the
inscription on a tablet in the church—

The Bell of this Church

was presented by the

Oftker- and men of the K Division, N.^V.^Ll^,

in memory of

Corp. W. N. T. Lowry,

Who died, May 3rd, i«'S5, aged 27 years,

from wounds received in battle

at Cut Knife Creek.

Mr. Cooper has since written mc this interesting;
letter, which will give an insight into affairs at
Calgary.

A LETTER EROM CALGARY.

Immigration— Immigrants' Train always arrives in
Middle of Night-Leiti^rs of Commendaiion from
Home Clergy — Church-work in Calgary — The
uNEXPi'XTicD Snow in Sei'tember— Church Offer-
TORii:s— Need of more Clergy.

" Calgary, Aluerta, Canada,

" September 16.

' My dear Buddy,

" I feel at a difficulty as to your request.
Some way or another it seems to mc I have done
very little indeed for the Immigrants that come
out here, and beyond an occasional visit to the
Immigration Shed, and of course giving advice and
kindly reception to those who have come to me
with letters, I Viave done nothing. My friend, the
Rector of Brandon, is, 1 know, always on the
platform of the depot to meet the west-bound train,
and probctoly if our trains arrived in the daytime

ii6

BY OCEAN, rRAIRIK, AND PEAK

"\l !

\'\

here I would do the same ; but you know the
unearthly hours we keep here, and so it often
happens tha^ families arrive without my knowing
of it, and go out on farms or ranches without
Iiaving reported themselves.

" I would press very much upon intending emi-
grants the duty of making themselves known to
the clergy, and at once presenting their introduc-
tions, or, should these have been mislaid, making
themselves known without them. In our ever-
shifting, varying populations, it is impossible other-
wise to keep track of the new parishioners, and
this fact is not always realized by those who come
out fresh from some well-worked old country
parish where the population is steady and the
parson knows every one.

''Very many thanks for the Evangelists duly
received, and I am looking forward to the account
of the few days here. We are (D.G.) getting along
happily in the little church. Congregation so large
last night that some went away despairing of a
seat. The Bishop returns this week, when I Lope
to get away for a week or fortnight's camping up
north, to shoot prairie chickens and wild-fowl, but
it is possible we may be so short-handed in the
diocese that I cannot leave. Our Ladies' Guild
has resumed its working parties, and they are
arranging for a series of concerts, and hope by
Christmas to have a sale of work to clear the debt
on the school-house. I wish I could get some
kind lady to do for us \vhat Lady Selkirk is doing
for my friend Fentrcath, in Winnipeg, and to give
us a stone cathedral. It seems to me a pity to

A LETTER FROM CALGARY

117

spend more money on wooden buildings, when we
have this beautiful stone on the spot, and yet
something must be done soon, for the church is too

small. . • •«.

'H)ur choir has improved a bit smcc your visit,
and I hope ere long to have boys and surplices.

is still hanging around and says he can't get

work He has found me inexorable on the subject
of loans, and never tries it now, and I fear has got
to be so well-known in town that people do not

care to employ him. thinks that some one

has tampered with his letters, as he says he wrote
to his wife, and he also has failed to receive letters
he feels sure were on their way. Our beautiful
climate disgraced itself by a heavy snow-fall last
week, when numbers of strangers were in town for
the fall races ; the cold was considerable, and we
had five nasty days, but all is bright, and dry, and
beautiful again. I have an idea that owing to the
smoke that hung around all the summer, the sun
did not warm the ground as it does other years,
and we may have an earlier winter than usual.
Stockcn has had his church at Fish Creek, which
you did not see, renovated, and it is to be re-opened
about the first Sunday in October. I have paid
two visits to the Reserve since you were with me.
Big Plume is well, and getting on with his schooling.
''Our people in this country are after all liberal
in their offertory-ours for yesterday was $21, or
about A /•^■•. ^P^^'^ ^>'°^^ ^^^^ envelopes on the plate,
which are counted separately, and you remember
the church will not seat 200. The free and unap-
propriated seats work well here. I have just

Tl8

V.Y OCEAN, PRAIRIE, AND TEAK

officiated at my twenty-sixth weddini^ in the church
in less than two years of my incumbency. I came
into the parish on October i, 1887, and feel that as
far as weddint^s go I have done my duty. Shortly
after you left us I had the pleasure of a Sunday
without a sermon, my friend Rev. A. F. G. Eichbaum,
of West Malvern, and Rev. D. Sweeny, of St.
Philip's, Toronto, taking the preaching for me ;
otherwise I have had no help, although daily
studying the hotel register to catch members of
the stray parson genus.

''Write to me any time you feel disposed, and
do not forget the sad wants of our widely-scattered
Church-folk in these dioceses when you are asking
for your own flock. We have two or three posts
of great usefulness opening up in this diocese now,
if we had men to take them. With best wishes,
and happ}^ remembrance of your visit, which cheered
me much,

" Yours most truly,

"A. W. F. Cooper."

THE SARCEE INDIANS.

A drive of some eight or ten miles in a spider-
wheeled buggy brought us across the rolling
prairie-land to a stream called Fish Creek. As
we drove we could see the Rockies some seventy
miles away — they only seemed ten miles. A fresh
arrival from our land of fogs and dim atmospheres
said one afternoon : " I'll just have a walk as far
as those hills and back." He would scarcely
believe they were more than eight or nine miles

TIIK SARCKK INDIANS

119

away. Lovely blue flowers, and red lilies, small
sunflowers, etc., speckled the grassy expanse. We
sometimes passed a herd of active, swift-footed
cattle, driven, checked, and guarded by booted and
spurred "cow-punchers," who charged hither and

i5?:i v;-:>' ;>

:;#'';■ ;^;

ill

JIM lUG I'LUMK.

thither in the dust, cracking their whips. Calgary's
streets are alive with cow-boys, with broad flapping
hats and leggings. (Some of the " boys" arc forty
years of age, but still "boys,")

We descended into the valley, where the Indian
Reservation encampment stands, together with
the agent's house, a corral, a school-church, and a

I20

r.V OCEAN, rRAIRIE, AND PEAK

Oil -!

missionary parsonage, where resided Mr. Stocken
(S.P.G.) and liis kind wife, with her smiling, chuck-
h'ng babe. The Indian scliool "loosed" itself, and
the youths came round us with faces hideous In bars
of red and yellow paints, and feet and leg's gaudy
in beads and coloured work, and h.iir plaited in
tails or standing up stiffly.

In summer the Sarcees live in th*^ conical white
tents which we call tepees, and in winter they
occupy little wooden houses on the hill, heated by
stoves. Roche Main, one of the chiefs, met us as
we were riding round and had some talk. An
immovable brown face, and a somewhat cruel eye,
which lightened up at a joke.

"How many men have you killed.-'" I asked.
"Three," he said, "and one I shot on lu's horse, but
it galloped off with him."

lie laughed when I put my hand to my hair and
said that I wanted to take my scalp back with me
to the " Land of the Great Mother."

When the rebellion was going on, an interpreter
was told to explain to the Indians that their fault
was that they were "treating the crown vv^ith
contempt." The interpreter puzzled them when
he told his fellow Indians that they were to l^e
punished "for kicking the Great ]\IotherVi bonnet
over the prairies."

IN THE INDIAN TEPEES.

I found one of the young "Bucks" — Jim Big
Plume — could write his name in my pocket-book
in a good roundhand. One of the scholars is

IN THE INDIAN TKI'KKS

121

quite a Unionist, and can speak in five different
languages.

After looking in at the interesting wooden
school-church where Mr. Stocken teaches these
wild-looking young Indians, we went down to the
encampment. The dogs (nearly fifty strong) rushed
out howling and showed their teeth ; but they
noticed that we carried stones in our hands for
their benefit, and then they pensively retired.

We visited a sick Indian named " The Rider."
We entered his tent and squatted on the floor.
The smoke curled up through the hole at the top
of the tent, and an Indian maiden, belonging to
the Cree nation, was engaged in cooking a "damper."
" The Rider " reclined on some skins, leaning against
a willow bed-rest. His forehead was painted
yellow, and his black hair in plaits lianging down.
His squaw and his mother also sat round, the
latter smoking a short pipe. The missionary spoke
to him in the Blackfeet language, which they
generally understand. Mr. Stocken had only been
here a short time, and was still learning the Sarcce
dialect.

When I took out my note-book they became
uneasy, and on asking for the names of the mother
and wife, they slipped out at once and did not
re-appear for some time. Then I took out my
watch and held it to the car of a small boy who
was nervously watcliing us. Hearing it tick, he
thought it alive, and bolted out of the tent for fear
it should sting or bite.

Up and down among the tents arc oval frames
of bent willows, as if intended for small tepees.

\': >

123

IIY OCEAN, I'RAIKTK, AND PEAK

II ;

J
i

. 1,

i(, I .1 i

These are "sweat lodges," and are used as Turkish
baths. They licat a number of biij^ stones and
place them inside, and after covcrinLj the frame
with blankets, the Indian sits inside and throws
water on the heated stones. The steam fdls this
tiny lodge until he is parboiled.

We visited the camp of Wig Wolf, and shook
hands with him and IVig Knife, and lying on the
grass had some talk. Big Knife was an elderly
man who had dabbled in magic. Taking hold of
my hand he shook it up and down, giving a little
jump and exclaiming with strong aspiration, " ///-

]5ig Wolf was one of the chiefs of the Sarcees,
and handsome but cruel, and pitted with small-
pox larks. His gestures were most picturesque
when conversing with us. Arms and hands con-
tinually in use. The Indians arc beginning to
cultivate their land, and we saw them even weeding
their fields.

THE RATIONS, OR ]]EEF ISSUE.

Durinij the afternoon we heard a fearful com-
motion through the camp. Every dog howled its
best, and was supported by all the children and
squaws. Some cow-boys were driving cattle down
from the Government farm, to be killed and divided
among the tribe, who receive nearly one pomid of
meat all round.

The cattle were driven into a strong corral which
opened into the slaughter-house. All the youths,
the women, the children, and every dog gathered

Tlir. KATTONS. OK r.KKF ISSUE

12^

round, waitiiii; for the sound of the !::jun as the
beeves were shot down. It was soon over, and the
doers were fitilitinij over the offal, and the more
fortunate had ah-ead)- secured some toothsome
fragment, though the meat was not to be given out
till next day, when each one was to present their
ration ticket.

As the Indians have given up their lands, the

■■^:&a^^

SARCEE SQUAW AND TONY CART,

Government takes these people under its pro-
tection and feeds them three times a week, forbids
them to drink intoxicants, and does not allow them
to Gfo out of their reserves without a licence
obtained from the Government agent who lives on
the " Reserve." Once a year treaty money is given
— one dollar per head, man, woman, and child ;
minor chiefs, five dollars ; major chiefs, ten dollars
or more.

124

r.Y OCKAN, I'RAIRIi:, AND I'KAK

I : I

1;i

T!i| 1

A I'ALi:-! ACK CllIIJ).

Amnn<:j the Indian children jrambollinj^ round
was one with a fair skin and pretty face. I tried
to i^et liold of In'in, but he fled like a deer. He is
about five years old, and had lived with the
Sarcccs since he was a year old.

I was told that in the Rebellion of 1885 his
father, an luii^lish settler, went out as a soldier to
ficjht the half-breeds and Indians and was killed,
and while he was away his mother also died, and
he was carried off by the Indians and brouL;ht up.
He cajinot speak a word of ICnirlish, and does not
like any one to think that he is not an Indian.
Mr. Stockcn tells me "the little white boy is the
adopted son of ' One Spot,' and is known by the
name of the ' Little Soldier.' In the Cree language
it is * Sh'moggun.'"

INDIAN r.URIAL-PLACES.

Mounted on some Indian " Shaganappics," we
galloped off across the rolling hills to see a strange
sight. Down into the creek, then splashing through
the ford and up the other side, and so away
through brushwood and over open prairie till wc
left the camp far behind and below. The wealth
of the Indians now-a-days is represented by the
number of horses possessed, which they pasture on
the rolling grass lands of their reservation. I
witnessed some exciting races on bare-backed
steeds by young Indians almost as bare as the
horses tliey rode. The nervous little horses started

A PKAT> TMUAX'S 'IINT

125

off together, and in a moment or two were only
discernible in the distance.

Our Indian ironies kept u[) a loni^ ambling
" wolf-lou[)," until we had ap[)roached a wootl,
outside of which we fastened ui) our " shaga-
najipies."

We found a trail which took us into the densest
part of the bush, and looking up into the cotton-
wood trees, we soon began to see the bodies ol
dead Indians up in the boughs. Here was a
rough corded box containing probably the body
of an infant. I'luther on, an adult wrapi)ed up in
the willow bed-rest on which he had died. Below
were the bones of a horse which had been sacri-
ficed ; we could see the bullet-hole through the
skull. I picked up three of its teeth as mementoes,
and tore off a small strip of the Indian's blanket
to take home. Many other bodies were lying in
the trees just about eight feet from the ground.
We came across some recent ones whom Mr.
Stocken had visited in their last illness, such as
the mother and sister of Shootclose.

A DEAD INDIAN'S TENT.

The most weird sight of all was a tepee in the
densest part of the wood, wherein lay a minor
chief called Akuskonukkutai, or " Many-times-
shot-at."

We searched for some time among the trees
before we saw the gleaming white sides of the tent
in which lay the chief with his wife and child.
The Indians are terribly afraid of going near the

I 26

i!V ()( i:an, I'KAikii;, and ii'.ak

rcstiiiLj-placcs of tlic dead, and none would have
accompanied us al any price.

I unfastened with my pocket-knife a seam which

"SV

EAGLE RIU.

might have been the tent door, and taking a long
breath, put my head in. Enough light shone in
to show that the floor was covered with bricrht

A C.kl'Al' flllKFS C.i'AVK

127

blankets, and one would have said that three
people were sleepin;.i; there. lUit the coyote — the
prairie do;^- — had been at work, or more probably
the white ant, for close to my hand lay a fairly
clean white skull. 1 was advised to carry it home
to Enc:land, as the authorities at the British
Museum had never yet obtained an Indian skull
from this region. I decided to put it back in the

tent aiji'am.

A GRKAT CIlIKl-'S GRAVE.

Leavincf the shadow of ttiesc trees-of-strani'c-
fruit we galloped over the prairies to the edge of
the Indian Reservation to visit the grave of Akajtas
(" Many-llorses"), a great chief of by-gone days,
whose memory is still revered. He was the chief
of the Sarcees when the white man first appeared
in the neighbourhood.

This grave differed from the others in being a
wooden erection on the top of a hill, with a kind of
flagstaff with a white rag or two flying in the
breeze. We could see through the chinks the body
within, wrapped in red blankets, and that of
another chief in a wooden "annexe." This was
"Weasel-Head."

The Indians believe that the next life will be
a continuation of this, everything to be spiritual
instead of corporeal. So they put in the grave all
the little things that the deceased valued, and
sometimes kill his favourite horse, thinking that he
will enjoy the spirity t ■ "astral body," of these
things. Offerings of iood, pipe, tobacco, etc.,

128

BY OCEAN, PRAIRIE, AND PEAK

u •

|i:

'il

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although tlicy sec they are not removed, are still,
they think, being enjoyed in the spirit by the dead
man.

Big Wolf is the missionary's Indian name, given
to him by Bull's Head, the principal chief. Big
Wolf told me how some time back an old Indian
had brought up the body of his wife, and with
many regrets was placing it in its last resting-place.
He heard children's voices singing together. They
were out of sight, but within earshot. In his own
language they sang : —

" There is a happy land,
Far, far away."

To us the words sound strange. They are sung
often at the commencement of their morning school
to the familiar tune.

" Eks-ka okhsiu kshok-kuni,

lMet;:iu,
AI()-kuni-mo-tsi-tap-|)i\

otai-tap-po-po-ai,
Usk-sai-ksist-si-kui-nat-si-u

Eks-kai-soks-i-nik-i-au
Kin-iin o-ko-ai-(ai)

Eks-ka-6khs-i-u."

The old chief came to the Mission House and
asked for the missionary.

*' Holy man," he said, "did yo;.i send those
children up there to the woods to sing those words
when I was laying my old wife away ? "

" No, chief, I know nothing about it, and I hope
that they did nothing that was wrong."

'* They sang words which warmed my old heart
when it was cold and .sad. Let them often sing
such words. I like them."

A ni'AOTKD AHSSIOXAin

129

INDIAN MOURNINCl. — A 1 )i:VOTi:i > MISSTONARV.

These Sarcces often mutihite themselves when
their relatives die, or else fast to starvation. Mrs.
Stockcn told me of a squaw, whose son had died,
and she announced her intention of cuttini^ off a
finger. Mrs. Stocken pleaded with her, and at
last she consented in substitution to fast for ten
days and to gash herself with knives. She was
reduced to the veriest skeleton, and was on the verge
of starvation before she had afllicted herself
sufficiently.

The name for a missionary is " The Holy Man,"
or "The White Medicine<Man." Somethnes we
hear of his bciniy called " The Man with the I^ook."

The Rev. Harry W. Gibbon Stocken, S.P.G.
missionary to the Sarcee Indians, is a fine example
of a flevoted servant of CllRlST, living for the
welfare of these simple children of the prairies.
He was formerly among the Blackfeet, and had
only been a year among these Sarcees as S.P.G.
missionary. He has work to do among the white
people, and so cannot devote his whole time to
learning the language. He talks to the Sarcees in
Blackfoot still, which they partially understand.
When his vocabubry of Sarcee is enlarged, his
work will bear more fruit.

Mr. Stocken was helped by a devoted wife, who
made life among the Indians very bearable, and
the little woodcp house was tastefully furnished
and well managed. While she was cooking in the
kitchen, a row of painted savages sat on a seat
near the door, taking a taciturn interest in cvery-

I'i

130

r.v orr.AX, pkairik, and peak

I'ii

It!.!

;-:). .

thing, and occasionally nursing the little white
baby, who preferred an Indian, iind was afraid of
being handled by a white lady visitor. I give
some of the Indians' names as I find them in
the Canadian Government Blue l^ook : — Bowlegs,
Stone liear. Standing Buffalo, Lame Fox J'.rho.'t
Legs, Spotted Stone, White Man Sleep (>■::■
Child, Bad-Named Jack, Never-Goes-Out, CvLzy
lUill, Buried-in-Water, Old Moon, Bcar-down-the-
River, Coming-Singing, Many-Mules, Little Run-
ning Rabbit, Hairy l^^ace, Legs and Hips, Owns-a-
Knife, 01d-]\Ian-in-a-Dirty-House, Takes-Threc-
Guns, Sacks-of-Meat-on-]5ack, White Pup, Greasy
r^orchead, Medicine Shoe, Old-Woman-at-War,
Standing-up-Smoking-alone, Bad-dried Meat, Brass-
riate-Man, Afraid-of-a-Grasshopper, Jimmy John,
James Big Woman, Mrs. Day Star, Kus-ka-tar-
nak-pa\'-oh, Nah-tow-wee-kew, and Kce-nee-qua-
nee-pe-ness.

I should like, ere we leave the Sarcees, to print a
letter from my friend Mr. Stocken.

II'.

''Sarcf.k Rkskrve, Cai.garv, N.W/r.

"'•December 13, 1894,
"MV DEAR BODDY,

" I thank you from my heart for youi
affectionate message and those little books of yours
which you were kind enough to .^nd me some time
ago. Because I never acknow! :dged th'^m at the
time, I hope you did not think I did not appreciate
them. More than once have I thanked our
Heavenly Father for them. They are so evidently
the outcome of a heart that knows our holy, loving

A DFA'OTF.D MTSSTOXARV

T31

Master. ]\Tay He bless them to many souls.
Thanks also for the ChurcJi Evano-clists, which
were very interesting. I am sendin^^ you one of
the reports of our Indian work which )'ou asked
me for.

" There have been many developments in our
Indian work in this diocese since you were out
here. There arc boardinc^-schools on everv
Reserve ; and, as the report will show, a large
number of children under training in them.
Hospitals too are being put up on the Reserves.
I hope to begin mine next year. ]jut what gives us
most encouragement is the evident interest being
taken in spiritual teaching. There is a decided
spirit of inquiry manifesting itself. On this
Reserve it has all taken place within the last two
weeks. I must confess to having felt discouraged.
Many things seemed to make me feel so — though I
k'uew that the Lord knew best when to give the
desired fruit. However, I had been asked to preacli
the sermon in connection with the Day of Inter-
cession for Foreign Missions, in Calgary, and was
engaged upon it one morning when a knock came
at my study door (not the first that morning by ten
or a dozen), and I hesitated to open it, as I had only,
so far, written three pages. I had the wisdom, how-
ever, to see who it was, and found one of our young
married men (Jim One-Spot) anxious to talk with
me. He had come specially to ask me if I would
baptize him ! I had never had any talks with him
privately ; but he has often been present at my
informal services in the Indian lodges, and has
evidently been no mere careless listener. I am sure

I I

T '' '

I'.V Or-KAX, PRAIRTK, WD PEAK

'it]

IP I'

»lii

lb I

li r1

the young fellow is sincere. On the followinL^
vSundayJim liig Plume joined him, and I have now
a catechumens' class of two. The former speaks
Crec well, and I am teaching him the Cree syllables,
and i ' soon to hear him reading fluently in the
Cree Is i ! What a blessing to be able to put the
whole word of God into his hands at once. He
comes five miles or more to the evening services
here every Sunda}', and rides home again afterwards.
" We have commenced magic-lantern lectures on
the Gospel history, and they are wonderfully well
attended and appreciated. A son of Preb. Webb-
Peploe and his wife are fellow-workers in this
diocese now, and dear friends they are. I knew
him in England. Time foioids my saying more
to-night, but please ask me any questions you like,
and I shall take quite an interest in answering
them — even if it takes /<t^.f'i" to do so.
" With warmest affection,
" Vour fellow-labourer in the Gospel,

" Harry W. G. Stocken."

>'!:!

I' I

CUAL'TER IX

The Rockies and the Selkirks

"What is the scenery of the Rocky Mountains
Hke ? " 1 have often been asked ; " is it as beautiful
or as grand as the scenery of Italy or Switzer-
land?" This must be my answer— Switzerland
and the Italian lakes have their own special beauty
It is difficult to compare this Western scenery with
them. To me it seems like a combination of scenes
in Northern Norway with more sunny pictures from
the Ticino Valley. Through this scenery we now
continue our journey towards the Pacific.

IN A liAGc;A(;E CAR.

It is night, and I am writing with a copying-ink
pencil at the baggage clerk's desk in the baggage
car of the trans-continental train travelling west-
wards ; all around are piled the huge boxes of
emigrants and colonists. The C.P.R. are very
generous to the emigrants and allow them almost
unlimited luggage, but I fancy that th- ,, do not
allow pianos or mangles. The baggage clerk
gives me much interesting information.

i 'i!

i ■

v>\

^1;

i>.''^

•;-"i

UW . <

lu i;n' (^<.i:ax, rKAiKii:, and ri:AK

.\ ru 1 ; AC i i I- R-ir hi AN.

A little time ago the mounted police heard that
two Blackfoot Indians had escaped from their
Reservation, and were near Medicine Hat. A
couple of men captured them and they were sent
back by train to Gleichcn. The sergeant b ought
them into the baggage car to be out of the way of
the passengers.

They were seated on the floor. A conversation
took place like the following : —

liidiiDi : I not like go back with soldiers. All
Indians in camp point at me.

Lniggagc Clerk: You shouldn't have run av/ay
when Government feeds you.

Indian : But I preacher-Indian. Should not
touch me.

Baggage Clerk : No, no ; there are no preacher-
Indians at Glcichen. How are you preacher-
Indian .''

Indian : Yes, I am preacher-Indian, / l^nelc
ivood for preacher ! (Me cut firewood for the
missionary ! )

This very car (113) was the centre of some ex-
citement a year before. It was loaded with raw silk
from China of the value of 200,000 dollars ; the
car was sealed up by the Custom House officers,
for the contents were in bond wincr through from
Wancouver to New York, U.S.A. Near Gleichen,
w\y friend in an atljoining baggage car smelt smoke
and uave an alarm. The silk car was in llamcs.
Some careless man had left a i)ile of oily waste on

i\ Till'; koCKV Mountains

l.vS

llic phitfonii, id the end nearest the engine, and
the sparks had kindled it. The door was all burnt,
but the fire was extinguished in time to save the
silk.

The baggage clerk, so busy i)ulling luggage
about and writing up the pieces, is my friend Mr.
Fatt. Only a few hours it seems since he was
reading the lessons for us in St. Barnabas, and
reading them in a very devout and edifying
manner. Would tliat wc had more of such
devoted Churchmen as Francis F. Fatt, the Lay
Reader, and young Jackson, the Sunday-school
Superintendent at Medicine Hat.

IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

" Oj'C mountains and all lulls, bless yc the LOKU : J)nuse
Him, and jnaonij'y Him for e:rr/'

Just before four o'clock (June lOj I awoke, got
down from my berth, and looked out of the window.
I received a shock which completely awakened me.
We were running along a broad valley, a crystal
green river coursing past us, young fir-trees green
and fresh springing around. But looking up, and
twisting your neck you could see the sunrise already
painting the great bluff heights of the seamed and
scarred Rocky Mountains, which now were all
around us as we quickly found our way into their
very heart. The sublime and the ridiculous are
ofttimes not far apart. At Canmorc (4.40; I see
a notice on the staticin —

" J/Z/v, l/^d Barkr, will be here every Suuday!'

1 30

]\\ 0(i;.\\, I'l^AIKII. AM) I'l-AK

ill

If i

'ii

'it

Also a notice that the li'cv. J. Williiuus, of l^anff,
would hold Divine Service, and all were invited, as
it would be his last time.

. As we sped aloni^', the sun gained more power,
and soon shone out brilliantly on the streaks of
snow and the strata-marked rocks of the Three
Sisters, till the mountains blazed out in glory. Fir
trees clung to the rocky steps and up the dizzy
heights, and in the early morning sun all looked
pure and majestic.

Tin; CANADIAN NATURAL OR NATIONAL

LARK.

We (the inhabitants of Greater Britain) have a
park here twenty-six miles long and ten miles
wide, about 100,000 acres in all. It is in the heart
of the noblest scenery the world can produce. The
Government have laid out roads for driving and
riding, and the Sulphur Springs have been turned
into warm baths. At one of the baths a crutch
used to hang, with the words, "The owner gone
hoiiie." Its meaning seems dubious. At the little
village are several small inns, and a great hotel
run by the C.P.R. Mr. Stewart, the Natural
Park Ranger, is expending more than £\6,ooo
upon this great domain.

A few miles further and the \alley is filled with
a soft, white smoke, hanging like a pall or clinging
to the mountain side. The forest is on fire, and
soon we run through crackling flames -preading on
— but not dangerous, as there is no wind.

LA^TJJ'; MufXlAlN AM' SUA IK illA

CASTLI- MULNTAIN AND SUA I Iv (11 A .

;\bovc the firs and spruce on our iiL;ht rises the
5,000 feet [)rccii)icij of the sides of the (liant's
Castle, with battlements, bastion, and kiei). ^^^^^
railway line is here at an altitude of 4,475 feet.
Our conductor, J. ]\ l^arrcau, travelling- from

,|::!l;'i;'i'

CASTl.E MOUMAIN.

Medicine Hat to Donald, was a most communica-
tive and pleasant official. lie told me that a
silver mine was started here the other year, and
2,000 people squatted in the valley. Hotels were
run up, but the mine was a fraud, and all the people
went home again ; some took down their houses
and others left them empty.

We are labouring up the pass, and the heavy
snorts of the locomotive echo loi My among the
giant firs which shut in the track. Now we go

K^^

\',V 0(KAN, I'kAJKri'., AM) I'l.AK

,; !

i ■'

!'h!i

t:, I

uiily at a ([iiick walk, and sonic young fellows
crowdinjr the platforms look as if they would like
to jump off. We wind along the sides of the noble
mountain all glittering in the brilliant sunlight, and
I enjoy the views from the open doors of the bag-
gage ear. A bull-dog, chained up among the
boxes, occasionally stands on his hind legs and
looks out of a window, but he has no enthusiasm
for scenery and doesn't enjoy it one bit.

At last we reach the summit, and are more than
o/ie ;////<? above the level of the sea. Summit Lake,
a marshy, shallow sheet of water, sends out a stream
eastwards i,ooo miles to Hudson Bay, and another
westwards i,ooo miles or so to the Pacific Ocean.
Here is a station where the ordinary engine is
detached and a tremendous engine, a double-con-
denser, sometimes affectionately called " Jumbo,"
is put on. ICight driving-wheels, all connected ;
weight, 122 tons.

KICKING IlURSE PASS.

Owing to the kindly offices of my good friend
and a permit from head-quarters, I mounted the
foot-plate of the giant engine. No. 313, which was
to let us down the r,ooo feet to Field Station, five
feet in every hundred. Mr. W. S. Caine says — " It
was a great comfort to know as we came down this
terrible descent, that we were travelling on rails
made from good honest Cumberland hcxmatite. I
have noted with interest, but without surprise, that
the word ' Jiarrow ' always ap[)carcd on the rails
which the CMMv. h;ive laid down in danc^erous

AN(jrm:i< s\i> ,\t t iniixT

KVJ

places." The driver's name was J. Orinistuu, better
known as " Scottie." On each car was a si)ecial
brakesman who kept his brakes hard down, and
the cw/mc had water-brakes. The Atmospheric
Westinghousc Brake was kept in reserve in case of
accident.

We started, and with all brakes down we crei)t
down the pass. Grand, stupendously c;ranJ, and
yet beautiful. The Wapta, or Kickin^r Horse
River, foamed and roared green and crystal down
below the line. Up above us Mount Hector,
Cathedral Mount, and Mount Stephen cut into
the sky.

Now and again we whistled loudly and a man
ahead signalled to us to come on, and held open a
switch to let us pass. If this was not done the
whole train would be sent up a safety track into
the mountain. This is to catch runaway trains or
cars which get detached. A thousand feet or more
above us were the wooden galleries of a silver mine
on the precipitous sides of Mount Stephen.

AXOTIIKR SAD ACCIDKNT.

In the most grand part of the pass, as we care-
fully crept down with brakes all set, some signals
were made to stop the train. It was some time
before this could be done. I saw from my scat on
the engine that men were running back up the
pass. We were then told that a man had been
run over; but the conductor gave the word to go
on. We thought the man had been placed in the
train to cairv to the doctor, but at the next station

140

r.V (MlW, I'kAlKIK, AM) I'l .\K

wc licarcl lie had been taken to a switeh-nian's lug-
hut, but to die. I le was a French Canadian silver-
miner named 1 c Chance, and had tliuught he could
get on the cars as they were going slowly, but he
was " full " (that is, drunkj, and missing his footing
went under, and both legs were cut off. Many of
the passengers seemed soon to forget it, but not
all. May Gun have mercy on him !

'I I

'i'l

, I

A ('lj;i<(i\MAN S ST()I<\- i\ Tiir: KU(K-
MUUXTAI.NS.

Mr. Urwin, formerly at Donald and afterwards
at New Westminster, told me a little of his work
among the men in the railway camp at the time
of tiie construction of the C.P.R.

Men of all nationalities, rough but good-hearted,
heedless of death, hardened by the sight of acci-
dents. Sometimes bravadoes would come amongst
them, using their shooters freely. Yet our friend
bravely preached the Gospel of CiiRlST to them all.

One man whom wc v/ill call " Shooting Jack,"
used to get behind a tree in the pass and " hold
up'" any solitary passers-by. That is, he would
" cover " them with his six-shooter, and call to
them to throw up their hands or he would shoot
them dead. Then he would come down and ran-
sack their pockets, keeping his loaded revolver
handy all the time.

" Why didn't you hold up the parson. Jack } "
said one of his chums.

*' Wal, I just guess I didn't 'cause I thought if I
held him up I'd get ;jh>rc' Prayer-books nor coitsr

T,OST n\ TllF MOrXTATXS

141

LOST OX TIM' MorX'lAIXS.

Standing? on the phitfonn of ii car as \vc were
com.ng along, I listened as a rough woodsman
who liad just got on at a little station told this

story : —

"Talking of bears puts me in mind of a little
business we had up h re on yonder mountains.
We were surveying and had taken a meridian,
when wc worked out from it four to six miles each
way, or as far as wc could in the da>'. The boss
said'that in case any of us got lost wc must look
out for a creek and follow it right down.

"Well, one night, when we got to camp, there
was a man missing. Wc waited three days for
him to come in, and then the boss said, ' Boys, we
must get that man.' Wc set out in a line, just so
far that we could holler to one another. We could
fire a gun now and again, but if wc fired twice it
meant wed found him. Wal, I guess it was
eighteen days after he was lost and wc hadn't
found him. F.vcry man we met we put on the
line, Indians and all, till we had sixty-two men,
and I tell you we were bound to find him. Wal,
one day I scc'd a big cinnamon bear, and he just
got up and looked at me and I fired at him. It
were a good thing, thought I, that one shot killed
him, because I should have brought up the sixty-
two if I had fired again.

"But I got a skeer, I can tell you, when I seed

the man we were looking for lying there right near

the bear which had been watching him.

I'-

! 111!

142

I'.V Orr.W, T'RATKTK. WD I'KAK

1 ^ ^

;1?

i|i '

"I To was about done, and wlicn I scc'd hini
turn up his eyes they ",vero all ycllo'.v, and there
were just a few berries near him. ] Ic said he'd
been watching the bear, and the hear had been
waiting for him to die, till he was getting kinder
liungry.

*' He'd struck a creek and followed it till he
found an old rotten Indian canoe and he could get
no farther ; he was clean done.

*' We used to visit him in the hospital, and he
were kind of solemn like by times and always
came back to the same thing — ' l^oys, did 3'ou
notice that bear?' He couldn't get it oiT his
mind ; they'd been so long in compnny.

" He had the note-book safe enough in his
pocket with all the distances, and he owed his life
to that, I guess, for I calculate that they wouldn't
have had all those men out just to find a vian that
was lost."

"Yes, he got better; buc he wqxq. always kind of
solemn-like."

B.C.

The postal abbreviation for British Columbia is
B.C. Since we have surmounted the pass we have
descended into British Columbia, but the mountain
journey is by no means over — it has only begun.
The loveliest scenery of all bursts upon one here.
After breakfast at the Hotel at Field, we fly
for some thirty miles down the canon of the
Wapta. Racing with the tearing torrent fresh
from the glaciers ; following the winding course of

ItRITISIl roi.l li'.lA

143

the rii'cr ; round such sharp cuia'cs that we had
to go slower and slower, until at last the loco-

- J Jim*. - ■ ~*

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l'IK[,l» SI AIION.

motive is ;j;oiag almost the op[)osii:c way to the
Pullman car at the end.

5''

lii

144

\',\ 0( KAN, I'KAIRTi:, WD I'KAK

I .1 ;:

i' II I

A great forest fire is ii^ofiif^ on above us, and
thick clouds of smoke liidc tlic mountains from
us; but far, far above them all, wc see the snow-
capped summits as if bclongin:^ to another sphere.
" Just look out for the fire at Moberley, and wire if
it is damaging the telegraph." This was shouted
into the baggage car at the next station,

A few weeks later and the fire had reached
terrific proportions. Such a fire I never expect to
see until that which St. Peter foretells (2 Pet. iii.
10). Crackling flames licked up the noble forest
on all sides, and thick palls of smoke hung on the
mountain sides, and made the deep valleys gloomy.
For 120 miles or more we were never distant
from raging fires, sometimes running right through
the scorching red flames, and for a moment all was
suspense, and we who stood out on the balcony
were singed with the fiery blast.

On one occasion, a whole train, with the ex-
ception of the rear IHillman car, was destroyed.
The engine-driver was running through as usual,
when he ran quietly off the rails into the middle
of the track. The heat of the fire had expanded
the rails and warped them. The passengers
escaped.

FLYINCr I'OR LIFi:.

A man got on board at Moberley who had just
escaped with his life on the hills above us, and all
his valuables were destroyed. He was lumbering —
cutting timber — some distance from his camp,
when he found the forest all blazing and raging in

U-....

A IIKIDGK UN IIKE

145

tlainc behind him, and return to the cani[) im-
possible. Escaping from the flames and suffocating
smoke, he wandered for days without food or
shelter, all his blankets, too, destroyed. By almost
a miracle he found his way over the hot cinders
and amidst charred and falling trees back to the
line, and escaped a miserable fate. He had been
much impressed by coming eicross a grave in the
burning forest with white painted railings around
it. It seemed strange and mysterious to him that
the flames had swept all round and left the grave
untouched, and the white railings, he said, were not
even discoloured.

A LRlDGi: ON IlKK.

One of the wooden trestle-bridges we had to
cross caught fire, and we ran forward to -xtinguish
it. This was done before it was burnt through,
and the train safely got over the semi-charred
beams ; and we, who had run on, had to cross the
w'idc river on the open trestle-work, which was
a giddy task, for below was the rushini; river, and
behind the train, with its great bell :3vvinging out
deep warning notes.

We steamed away again through smoke and
fire, and then a burning tree fell across the line,
destroying all the telegraph wires, and cutting off
Victoria and the West from communication with
England. With all brakes down we stopped in
time, and getting axes, we cut it through and lifted
it on one side. As the train stood another great
tree began to fall, and the cars were in danger;

1^1

I.}

:^i

''• ii

HII

146

i;n- ()(;i:.\\, I'Rairii;, and I'IAK

but slowly it turned and considerately fell along-
side the train. When it i^^rew dark the scene was
bewildcringly grand. We rushed on through smoke
and heat, the red hungry flames leaping from tree
to tree up the mountain side, and far above us, as
well as around us, the forest blazing In a thousand
places.

Mount Stephen was lurid, and flames leapt up
and died away all over. The railway men were
working bravely to preserve the track, and \vc
can led a special gang with buckets and axes. As
fai as Banff, and further east, the fires raged; but
we passed through all in safety. The smoke of
this mighty conflagration extended in a few days
nearly lOOO miles across the prairies, and we were
told that it would not be entirely extinguished
until the snow of winter.

The grey pall hung over the Alberta district
through the summer, and prevented the sun from
using its full power un the land, and early in Sep-
tember a fall of snow astonished every one, but
though it soon vanished, it was looked upon as the
precursor of a severe winter, owing to the land
being so cold through the summer, shaded from
the beneficent rays of the warm sun. For a fire to
cause cold weather is as marvellous as that the
waters of Montmorency should light up Quebec
with brilliant incandescent lights.

Mr. Fatt showed me the grave of a negro who,
in the days when the rail was making, was a great
buliy in the construction camp ; at last he was
shot down by one of the men and buried here.
Forty miles from the summit we passed out

CULDKX elTV

14/

through the gates of the canon and shot out into
dayHght and into open country.

iX)Lnj:N CITY.

Ouite a chan'^e from the N.W.T. Just as if we
were in a southern chmate, such timber, such pro-
fuse vegetation — a land of plenty. " Golden " is on
the banks of the Columbia River, and with a lovely
background of the Selkirks,astill nobler and higher
range than the Rockies— more like the Alps. From
here a little steamer journeys for lOO miles to
Kootenay Lake. This picturesque excursion is
attractively described in Trac/c and Trail, p. 343,
and a good deal is said about the Kootenay district
in /A C. in 1887; or Three of Us in British
Columbia. Golden City is a thoroughly Western
village, and is the centre of a gold and silver
mining district.

Till', CuLUMlUA CAiNOxX.

Arriving at Donald at ten o'clock (six days' rail
from Quebec) we have to put our watches back for
still another hour, so that we are now seven hours
behind the old country.

We climb steadily up the valley of the Columbia
until, in Rogers' Pass, we reach the summit, and
then pass through many miles of snow-sheds.
At last we are in the heart of the Selkirks, and
stay at Glacier Station (here pronounced "glay-
shur "), iiunost as grand as the Rhone glacier at the

J4'S

BV oci;a\, rRAiRii:, and teak

I ;'i

m ii

Fiircka I'ass. Down below my bedroom window
at tlie hotel a frisky, good-natured, chained bear
amused all comers by his friendliness. All around
exasperating mosquitoes attacked one viciously.

TU THE bL'.M.MlT (JV THE AELSKA.N GLACIER,
JUUTISH CuEUMJnA.

" () }c ice and snow, IjIcss yc die Lord,
I'raibc Him unci magnify Him for c\er."

"Call me at 4.15 to-morrow morning," were my
last words ere 1 retired. I was awake, however, at
3.30, and out at four. After some breakfast I set
off for a seven hours' hard climb.

James Neves, a sturdy, experienced guide, had
undertaken to take mc up to the very top of the
" Wild Goat " Glacier — lying to the south-west of
the mighty ice-giant which dominates this valley
where the Glacier Hotel is built.

A Canadian, from Ottawa, wished to join in the
" big climb," and wc had, as he said, " a pretty con-
siderable tough time"; but we were not "whipped."
In the early morning (but not before the mosquitoes
were awake) we travelled some miles through dense
green forest, pushing through a jungle of thick
undergrowth and bushes, blueberry and rhododen-
drons, by the edge of the tearing glacier stream
known as the Illecillewaet (an Indian word, pro-
nounced " Illy-silly-wart," meaning " Rushing Tor-
rent"), plunging over big stones, crossing the icy
torrent on a single tree all wet with spray, on,
on, up and up, until muscles were aching and lungs

TO THE STTMMTT OF TTTF AFrSK \\ (;T,.\rTTU 149

panting. Wc did not come across a grizzly bear,
or sec any of those strange-shaped mountain goats,
the Big-IIorns, but we killed a chipmunk, or rather
our guide's dog did.

At last we reached the foot of the huge ice-
mountain, the Wild Goat Glacier, and commenced
our real climb, and when we fairly got on the snow
we left our enemies, the mosquitoes, behind. The
comarc of Arctic Russia (the culcx dialwhis of Rae)
showed itself to be a true vVnglophil when I
wandered through its native forests, but the mos-
quito of British Columbia said to me constantly, in
its own musical language, " Fc-fi-fo-fumJ smell the
blood of an RuinUshmanr Its friendship was too
close and assiduous, and I was glad to find that it
would not venture into unknown regions of ice and

snow.

Up and up, ever deep snow and round dangerous

crevasses, until the glacier was 1000 feet thick

beneath our feet, and we were 7,794 feet (about a

mile and a half) above the level of the sea. It is

some years since I did some ver}- amateur climbing

in Switzerland, and the rarefied air and deep snow

made me gasp painfully, and breathe with the

mouth wide open, falimg now and again utterly

exhausted, to lie on the snow for a few minutes'

rest, filling my burning mouth with snow, contrary

to all conventional rules of mountaineering. About

ten o'clock we were gazing from the summit into a

mystic land beyond, whose mountains were greater,

and its glaciers and ice-fields more wide-spreading,

than anything that is visited from the railway.

A ! wc lay on the snow eating our sandwiches,

r.v orF.AN, rKAiRTi:. .wn it.ak

I !

i i

i'i i

Ml: ?'

t ^^^ i

and watchin^c,^ Ihc clrirtinjT smoke of the distant
forest fires, our guide told us of his work of explor-
ation,in the neighbourhood, and gave us the names
of the mountains and glaciers now lying before
and below us.

The Royal Geographical Society published a
most valuable map of this immediate region, in
the March number 1888, of the magazine, which
map has been of greater use to me in identifying
the peaks and glaciers than even our worthy
guide's knowledge. The Rev. W. Spotswood
Green, M.A., staj-ed at Glacier House for some
time, and surveyed the mountains and glaciers
around. I'rom this map and the exhaustive paper
read before the R.G.S., I see that we were looking
down on to the Geikie Glacier and across to Mounts
1^'ox, Dawson, and Donkin, surrounding the great
Dawson Glacier, which is not unlike the Jlfrr dc
G/ace, in the Chamounix Valley, in Switzerland, as
seen from the 77<,^wr, where the yi/i^////A'i" dominate
that glacier, rising above the Maiivais Pas. Mr.
Green writes, *' The valley we had looked into was
unknown." James Neves, the guide, lias since
crossed it to Mount Fox. Our view was impres-
sive, the silence awful. What a tiny atom one
feels in the midst of these mighty mountains ! It
helps one to realize the Omnipotence which made
them all, and which careth for the sparrows, and
much more for us.

What a descent! Glissading, plunging through
the snow, and fighting and struggling downwards,
and descending gradually, like the man with the
parachute, to the level of the ordinary world. Here

TO Till' SUMMIT OF THV: AT.USKAN (.I-.\(T1.K 151

and there across our track yawned the awful
crevasses, great open-mouthed fissures, into which
we could cast a lump of ice and listen to it ratllinpj
downwards till we could hear no longer. Across
the crevasses the deep snow formed natural bridges,
across which we stepped delicately, like Agag, in
danger of an awful and sudden end. I silently
returned a thanksgiving when the lasi" acre of slip-
pery ice had been crossed, and we were standing
on mother earth again.

We found our companions the mosquitoes
patiently waiting for us at the toot o.' the glacier
(unless, indeed, they were another set) ; and then
came the scramble for an hour or tsvo through the
hot forest, as we trotted behind our faithful guide,
Neves, till the welcome sight of the Glacier Hotel
presented itself, and the cinnamon bear gambolled
in ecstasy at the end of his chain to sec us safe
back. Wet and weary, and scorched by sun and
snow, we were soon dry, refreshed, and happy.

These picturesque mountain hotels at Field, at
Glacier, and at North l^end arc all designed in
Swiss c/n'^Iet style by Mr. Thos, C\ Sdrby, an
iMiglish architect living at Victoria. They are built
chieHy of wood, and the dining-rooms made bright
Avith contrasting timber and panelling. The
frradients on the mountains are too heavy to
permit of dining-cars, and these supply their place.
On leaving this lovely spot we descend rapidly,
and the railway zigzags down by the Great ]knd,
clinging to the mountain side, and crossing occa-
sionally on trestle-bridge.-: over the rushing river
below. Tlic scenery in Columbia is far nobler than

^S-

]\\ Or.KAN, rRAIRTl', WD PT'AK

1
llti

'■1

: I

anythinpf \vc have seen to the cast. Hundreds of
miles of deep canon and swirHnj:^ rivers. In tlie
cvcninpf we skirt tlic c^rcat Sluiswap Lake and see

i|y!ii;if|l..t,::'ii;;i!niti}'/:i^i; :!''>,

./;,

P-

-j:o.»_,.-.-,5*r,-^

IIIK CKlvM H1:N!>.

the Indian in his frail canoe fishing; the tranquil
surface reflecting the. purple clouds so clear in this
marvellous atmosphere.

VALi:, ON Till': I'RASKR KHKR.

I could not wish to live to the end of my days
in a more noble spot than at this point in the gorge

^■.\I,I:, o\ Tin: i'KasI'K lavi'u

15,

of the iM'ascr River. 1 Icrc, fornicrl)', w.is the head
of navic^ation, 103 miles from X'ancouvcr and 3000
miles from Quebec. Now it is little more than a
shrunken village of wooden shanties.

Through the night we had passed along the
canons of the Thompson and the 1^'raser, and in
the early morning had been continuall)- astounded
and almost stupefied with the heights and depths
above and below us. Many felt very fearful in
passing at tremendous heights over the canons on
creaking trestle-bridges.

At 9.20 we shot through a tunnel and emerged
near Yale. Here I left my last charge— Francis
Dockerell — to go on to New Westminster, having
given him a letter to the good Bishop Sillitoe,

The train sped away and friends waved from the
Pullman car platform as it disappeared. I left my
luggage in the waiting-room and found my way
over to the Railroad Hotel, a thoroughly Western
establishment — a wooden, one-storied building, with
a primitive shanty up the " street " for a bedroom
for the male visitors.

THE CITINJ:SK on TIIK FKASl'.R.

Hundreds of Chinese live in this neighbourhood.
Many work as miners or ,vash the soil of the
Fraser River to get gokl. They also go out as
cooks, and all the laundries are kept by them.
Here is a sien at Yale —

CITY LAUNDRY,
YUNG WOD.

'51

F!V orrw. T'RATnTi:. .\\i> 1'T"\k

Iff

I !
lit !

I'lic " cily " coiiliiins iiboiit .^oo inhabitants.

Having a stock of soiled linen, 1 went over and
found two Chinamen in their dark blue clothes and
\onrr hanginjT pig-tails. Yung Woo gave mc his
card in Chinese characters. I couldn't read it.
They charged ten cents a piece (that is, fivcpencc per
article), which is a good deal more, I believe, than
wc pay in England. They wash well, and can cook
well.

One of them next morning was stupefied with
opium. Up in the moui.tains they are a lower set
than down on the coast. I visited their burial-
ground, and saw the queer enclosure and a sort of
flag-staff with rags of white material. Occasionally
their relatives have the bodies dug up and for-
warded to China. The Paiihia took a freight of
coffms some time ago, and the wily Chinee put five
sets of bones in each coffm.

.. :' \

In 9

}->'

A STROIJ, TITROUCir A WF.STF.RN " riTV."

Lion went with me. lie was a very big dog
with a leather muzzle on to keep him from biting
the Siwashes. i^SkvasJi is a corruption of Smivaf^e,
and is the general name by which the various
tribes of Indians to the west of the Kockies arc
known.) Wc went down the village, and the
Chinese took more interest in Lion than in me — he
had evidently established his character in Yale.
We passed out by the Ranchcrie of the Siwashes
and the Chinese burial-ground, and out on the
mountain side. Lovely butterflies, tropically
gorgeous and of enormous size, flew past under the

A RTROTJ. TITROUrWI A Wl'STI-RX '(•1T\' i;;

(

l)iirninj^ sun. W'c
saw sonic of ihc old
wagons wliicli were
dra^-gcd by teams
of mules before the
CM'. R. cncrincs
whistled in this
canon, and the
bones ot a mule
which died on the
road. Then we
turned back to the
Rancheric, and in-
terviewed some of
the Indians, but
Lion left me, dis-
gusted that I made
friends with Red-
skins.

The Si washes are
more civilized than
their brethren on
our side of the
Rocky Mountains.
They live in huts,
and fish, or work
even on the rail-
road. Some are
Roman Catholics.
David, an Indian
with whom I talk-
ed, was himself a
Roman Catholic,

- ■ ^' ■ ^^^^^l^fKlK'*!'^^*^^

ixhi.w s\'.^Jo^• 'rAfiiE.'

15^5

r.V OrF,.\X, PRATRIK, AND PEAK

but said tlic priest had not been at Yale yet that
year. There is a Roman chapel, and a tin}' Indian
burial-ground, with curious carved devices on some
of the graves, l^^our rude canoes were stuck on the
posts at each corner of the grave.

■ ;

t i

MV SrWASII CITDK.

The mountains round Yale are very noble, very
precipitous and bold. With an Indian youth as
my guide, the ascent became chiefly a matter of
muscle and wind

As we went up and up through the bull-pine, fir
trees, balsams, and larches, we left the village away
far below us ; the little houses grew smaller, the
mighty Fraser River became a stream ; fresh
ranges of mountains came in sight which had not
been seen from below, and behind all were the
snow-capped Hope Mountains, piercing the blue
summer sk}'.

Readers of yl Sportsninii's Edcu will remember
these same Hope Mountains, and the Grizzly
]^ears and L;s^-Horns roamincf about and comincf
across Mr. rhilips-Wolley's line of fire. I had
nothing but a walking-stick for the bears, but they
most considerately kept out of the way.

We rested in a dell, and Isaac, my guide, gave
mo the names of surrounding objects in Fraser
River Indian. *'ir tree — kockia ; poplar — Jiictrj.a ;
grass— .v/i'r/'/vr ■ ^'one — sbarl. Isaac is a yellow-
skinned Fra::r;i River Indian about sixteen. He
can speak a f.-w words in English, but A\as taci-
turn enough for one of T'enimore Cooper's noble

w>--wyrf^-rrpy.^y

rX A COL!) A\(t SIIA'I'K MiXi;

157

sav-igcs. \Vc tried to kill a snake between us, but
the reptile escaped.

Isaac's father is called Captain Tuin ; but Isaac
lives With his h.df-brother, George, who is the
Mission interpreter, lie did not hke being cross-
examined even in a friendly way. lie told me
that he did nothing, and did not know what he
was going to be or do when a man. lie knew that
there were bears around us. He had not travelled
far, but had canoed down tlic Fraser River to New
Westminster, lie had been baptized, and knew
that Jksus CliklST was nailed to the cross for him.
lie went to churcii ^..ometimes. Isaac was not a
favourable specimen of the native Christian, yet he
was cpiitc as good as most English boys.

1 made the acquaintance of the ^Mission doctor,
Dr. A. Pearse, who works among the Indians, and
we went a walk together up the caiion, and looked
in at the joss-house, where a smiling Chinee
seemed pleased to see us.

IN A GOLD AMI SUA 1:R .MIM:.

Away up the high llr-clad mountains I climbed,
following a trail for some miles, while the hot sun
poured down and the streams rushed past from
melting snows above, until at last I found signs of
miners' work.

Thomas Ratelin, witli liis cousin, recently fiom
Cornwall, was driving a drift, in the daily expecta-
tion of coming on a ''find." "Hello!" I shouted
down the dark drift ; and back from the mountain's
heart came a responsive telephonic shout, " Hello ! "

1^8

i;v oci;ax, rRAikii:, and ri;AK

If!'

It 1

I ■! i'^il

1 !

2 !'

§ M

.V,

I'i^i i

1:; iV

One of the lights moved out to mc, and its bearer
seemed astonished to find an KngHshman so far
up the trail. I followed him up the tunnel, and
stood by whilst he swung his great hammer, with
a " Ugh ! " forced from his lungs at each blow.
At last we were readv to fire several shots, and
retreated hurriedly into the open air, and sitting
on a log, waited for the thundering bangs which
soon went echoing through the mountains.

This was one of three tunnels, and they gave me
specimens of the minerals obtained. A miner has
to take out a licence from Government, and then
he may settle down on any unclaimed spot and
stake it off, and on making an application it
becomes his own. Miners make from one dollar a
day up to one hundred dollars, but more often near
the former amount. My friends the Columbian
miners shared their lunch with me, and then I
started off up the mountains and attempted to get
to the summit of one great mass, but only lost my
way.

ill

THE INJJIAX MISSION.

My chief object in stopping at Yale was to sec
some of the work amonix the Fraser River Indians.
I found that Bisliop Sillitoe had the previous day
^one up to Lytton, to be present at the great
annual gathering of the Indians at Britannia (or
Treatannia), some sixteen miles from the station
at Lytton. If I had known in time, I should
have made a great effort to have joined them.
All the Church Indians meet together once a

"U;.

TlIK INliIAN MISMON

159

year, and the IHshop with his clergy prepare them
for Confirmation or Baptism, as the case may be.
At the end of the week the rite is celebrated,
and afterwards there is the Holy Communion.
The Bishop had a tent for a church. I shall
always be glad that I stayed at Yale, and saw a
little of the good work going on among the Indian
and half-breed children.

"Where is the Mission school.^" I inquired at
the station. " Do you see that white house with
the verandah, there among the trees near the
railway .'' That is where the Sisters have their
school." I had dinner at the chief wooden
erection in the village, kept by a kind-hearted
woman, Mrs, Reeivespeach, and called the Rail-
road Hotel. Here I came in contact with Western
miners, railroad- men, and the Hudson Bay agent.
After dinner I set out for the Mission. Down the
line and along the road, until at last I was at the
gate under the trees, and walked up to the veran-
dah, where stood a little table with some books and
a chair. From the woods round the house came
merry laughter as I stood, having rung the bell.

Masses of creeping plants hung and grew in
profusion, forming a curtain to the verandah, but
leaving an opening, a great frame to the glorious
mountains and swift river, and a wooden bridge
within a stone's throw carrying the rails of the
C.P.R. across a ravine. Sister Alice, the sister-in-
charge, soon came into the room into which I had
been shown, and welcomed me to the Mission.
The Mother Superior had not been well, and was
resting- at New Westminster.

? I

1 1

i6o

hV OCEAN, I'RAIRIE, AND TEAK

I',

II i

l^X

l; t •

It (

I (

P ij '>?

I' ill

Si- ) .

THE SCUUUL EOR IN DEW (JIKLS.

It was very delightful and inspiring to sec these
perfect ladies living here out of the world amongst
miners, and Chinamen, and Siwashes, and to find
how the people loved them. The sistcr-in-charge
showed me through the buildings and told me of
their plans for the future. They had Indians and
half-breeds, but intended to receive white children
also, placing them in a separate wing, and with the
fees for the white children to help the funds
required for supporting the Siwash children.

We saw the dormitories, all iicat and sweet — the
fresh air blowing through the open windows — and
the school-room where the lessons are gone through.
The Indian children are very cjuick at figures.

Whit- Monday and Whit-Tuesday are observed
as holidays, and on Monday the girls went down
the Fraser River in canoes, experienced Indians at
the paddles. To-day the girls were all in the
garden. One set had rigged up a wigwam with
their shawls and cloaks, and a bright-eyed little
Siwash peeped knowingly through the window of
the wigwam, and all seemed full of fun. Another
party were fishing in the stream, and found it
pleasant in the heat to dabble with bare feet in the
cold rushing water.

The oldest, a half-breed — Mary Schwartz (her
father is of German extraction, her mother an
Indian) — is now advanced to the post of cook.
One has gone into service, and one wishes to go
back to her tribe to teach them. Sometimes they

OUK F.AKr.V SKRVICK

l6l

go home for ii holiday, but they Hke to come back
to the Sisters. The Sisters have found them very
tractable, and the half-breed children have turned
out better than they expected, llalf-brceds are
generally credited with unreliability of character.

To raise sufficient funds the Sisters have gone
out each year collecting, and have journeyed as far
as California, ahvays receiving courtesy, and often
something more solid and helpful.

OUR EARLV SER\ICE.

There had been no clergyman at Yale on Whit-
Sunday, so I suggested that we should have a
Celebration of the Holy Communion at seven
o'clock in the morning, before I left.

In the little, pretty wooden church, whose
chancel and altar fittings so plainly spoke of taste
and devotion, we gathered in the early morning —
five Indian maidens and three English ladies. The
church was decorated the previous evening by two
of the ladies, assisted by willing Indian hands. I
shall not forget that service. Near the door
crouched an Indian named George, who rang the
bell ; outside on the steps an old Indian had
warmly shaken me by the hand as I entered. Wc
had our service in the *' Englishman's Church."
There is also another called the Indian's Church,
whose services are held in Eraser River Indian
dialect.

The girls at the Mission, however, understand
English, and those present had been confirmed.
Their devout and prayerful manner would teach

f '

Ii 1

;i II

Bi H

fp 1 H

li ' H

' pp

162

1!\ OCKAX, I'KAlkl]-, AND I'KAIv

US all by example. So '• lie was made known to
us in the l^reaking of 13i-ead " in that little wooden
church by the rushiny Fraser River. As I pro-
nounced the Benediction, the west door being open,
I could see the waving foliage, and across the rail-
road the white houses of the villaere.

Nearly 6000 miles from their homes do
these brave women work in that beautiful vale.
" God bless them ! " is the benediction of many a
rough man there, and I venture to add it as mine
also.

As I went aboard the cars a kind note was
placed in my hand. It runs as follows —

"Rev. Ax\J) Dear Sir,

" I was not able to see you after the
service this morning, but I am anxious to express
to you our grateful thanks for your kindness in
giving us a Celebration. We arc much obliged
also for the periodicals, they will give much
pleasure to the children.

"Wishing you a pleasant and safe journey,
" I remain, dear and Rev. Sir,

"Yours faithfully in CllRlST,

"Sister Alice Louisa,
"C. A. H.
Sistcr-in-ChargcP

CHAPTER X
On the Pacific Coa.st

From Yale the run down to the coast, about 130
miles, is beautiful, though not grand as is the
scenery above. At last we see the masts of large
vessels lying at anchor or moored alongside wooden
erections, and we know as we look out over a
lovely sheet of water that we have come to the
Pacific Ocean, or at all eve'.ts to an arm of the
sea — Burrard Inlet. The I'raser River has its
mouth a few miles further south of this spot, after
it has passed New Westminster with its salmon
canneries.

VANCOUVER CITY.

The terminus of this railway line of 3000 miles
is in the new "city" called "Vancouver." In 1881
it was forest, in 189 1 it had a population of about
14,000, and has been rapidly increasing since. In
1887 it was burnt to the ground, but in a few
weeks it rose again. In fact while it was burning
they commenced re-buiiding.

The wonderful timber which grows here was a
great help. The Douglas P'ir grows to the height
of nearly 300 feet, and is from twelve to fifteen feet

164

j;v (x:r;.\N, rKAiKir., AxND 1'i:ak

't%

I r

:1'i

■v.\ ii

in diameter at its base. Planks, ete., can be sawn
and used without seisunini;. Lovely scenes met
one on lantl or on the water. l>urrard Inlet is
a noble mountain-girt expanse of sea-water. A
sheet of greenish-blue crystal stretched unruflled
under an azure sky, and some few miles away at
the other side of this broad Sound, the lofty
Cascade Mountains cut into the sky in sharp
serrated outlines ; but though miles away, every
detail clear In this most transparent atmosphere.
Far out on the broad waters an Indian sat in
one of those sharp-prowed sea-canoes of the
Songhish, or more Northern Pacific coast Indians.
He was fishing.

AN ENORMOUS FONT.

1 visited the church of which the Rev. II. G. F.
Clinton is rector. He is doing a great work, and
is a favourite with the young men. The font is
made out of a huge boulder, carved and hewn, and
standing on other great slabs. One could almost
immerse an adult in it. It lay here as a great
stone among the trees for centuries before this was
chosen as a site for the church. The clergy were
all in synod to-day at New Westminster, under
the presidency of good Bishop Sillitoe, w4io has
passed to his rest, after a most self-denying
episcopate.

THE llOSriTAL.

Adjoining tlie church, which is a tasteful wooden
structure of Elizabethan design, is an hospital,

STEAMF.K FROM JAPAN

161

managed by Sister T^-ancis. This is a great boon
to the town. The Sister also looks after servant
girls coming from England, and provides them
with homes, and keeps up a friendship with them.
Mr. Clinton, among many other duties, undertakes
those of chaplain of the hospital.

STKAMKR FROM JAPAN.

The S.S. PartJiia arrived this morning from
Yokohama, having previously touched at Hong
Kong and other ports. She had on board 150
Chinese. They have to pay fifty dollars each (about
;^io) for permission to land. They had not been
passed, and were crowded 'tween decks, where
I visited them, and found a strongly-pervading
Celestial odour. On the PartJiia also had come
two parishioners from Roker, Mr. and Mrs. Taylor,
who had been taking a trip right round the world.

The rector of St. James' very kindly answered
some queries in the following letter, which is most
important for those who are thinking of emigration.

"Vancouver, B.C.,

'■^ Scptciiibcy 9,
"MV DEAR l^ROTJIER,

" I had found out the Robson family soon
after they landed, and when I had your message,
I told him to write at once, which he promised to
do. lie has not been very successful in obtaining
employment here at present, though he has some
kind of desultory work to do. Andrews is \\\ the
choir, and a very useful voice. lie is doing well

■

A I

1 66

I'.V OCKAN, I'KAIklF, AND I'KAK

lit'

\i ri

i,!

enough now, tliough lie had a little difficulty at
first in obtaining work ; now he is cmploj'ed by a
wholesale liquor firm as, I believe, warehouseman.

"Andrews is a man with plenty of push, and a
fund of hope always in reserve, and that is the kind
of immigrant who is pretty certain to do well out
here. There are three kinds of men whose arrival
brings me anxiety —

" I. — T//OSC ivJio arc ahsolntcly destitute of money —
'dead broke' as loe say. Every one should have
enough spare cash to carry him over the first two
months at least, and that means not less than ;^io,
but double or treble that if possible. For the best
workman cannot make sure of getting work at
once, and in a general way a man has to get known
b}' other men in the place in order to get work.
Of course there are xcvy man)' cases where a man
docs get work almost immediatel}', but these arc
rather the exceptions.

" 2. — T/iose ivJio Jiave got no pusJi in tJiew^ and if
tJiey are not fortunate in obtaining employment at
once, give up trying^ and lose Jieart. There are many
who are out here for months without getting any-
thing to do, while others with no more ability, but
more of what is called ' luck,' step into places which
they might have got. Of course one must not be
too sweeping in making such a statement, for after
all there are some whose failure to get on is not to
be explained thus, and can only be put down to
want of luck. But still, a man without plenty of
push has, I fear, not much chance out here.

" 3. — T J lose who will not take the first thing that
offers, or having taken a Job ivill not stick to it till

!■

I.l'.TTKU I'KOM II. C. 1'. CLINTON

167

they can get a better. It is no use coming out here
with the determination only to take one particular
kind of work. The men who get on best are those
who arc not above taking anything. I have met
with too many who will pick and choose instead of
taking the first thing that came ; and I ha\'c known
too many who are continually throwing up a job
because they are not satisfied. Such men soon get
the character of ' loafers,' and are like the dog with
the bad name. This a bad place for idle men ;
there is such abundance )f temptations in the
whisky shops or saloons, as they are called, and
there are practically no other places lor many to
pass their time, and so it comes to p.i .s that idle-
ness, and that, perhaps, of no fault of theirs, as far
as one can see, is often the highway to ruin of
body and soul.

" Every one that comes out should have some
trade if he means to work, for even if he cannot
o-et work at that particular trade, he is used to
work, and knows what work means ; and, indeed,
there are few 'soft,' ?. c'.easy places, for any one
here. The young gentleman who has never done
anything had better stop with his friends at home
until he has learnt to work, and work hard. We
have too many of these young gentlemen who
know nothing useful in the colonies.

" Of course, those I like to see come out are the
opposite in character and condition to them I have
spoken of, and besides, they are true and staunch
Churchmen. I think, too, that they ought to have
reached a sober age— say twenty-four at least— if
they are coming out independently.

hii

P1:

'.Ml

i^s i'.v oci'an, i'rairn:. ant) i'i'.ak

('ommi:ni)atoky jjttkks.

" I would like to press upon the clergy at home,
that they fjive them who go from their churches
letters to the clergy into whose parishes they are
going, which they may present upon their arrival.
To write to the clergy direct, and omit to give
letters to the immigrants, is frequently a disap-
pointment on all sides, as it is sometimes, or gener-
ally, almost an impossibility to find the person
about whom the letter is written, in a place which
IS every week crowded with new arrivals. I would
also recommend that the clergy take the trouble to
write to those who have gone from among them, im-
pressing upon them their duty of finding out the
church and the parish priest. So many become
careless, and get intp bad wa\'s, who might be
brought into touch with the Church here by a
friendly reminder from the clergymen at home.

DOMESTIC SKKVICK.

" There are at present openings for good domestic
servant girls. But they should be selected with
great care. The temptations to servant girls are
very great here, so that on the moral side of the
question the greatest care in selection should be
made, and those in whose morals the fullest confi-
dence cannot be placed should not be allowed to
come here. The work is hard, in many cases verj'
hard, and, therefore, no girls who are lazy, or
unused to hard work, or who are not ready to do

II i

TO van(OUvi:k island

iTk)

far more than as a nil'- is demanded of servant
girls at home, are likely to be of use. With many
instances of failure from both these points of view,
in my mind, I feel most stroni^ly that greater care
should be exercised than has been hitherto. I

cannot altogether accjuit the Society of want

of care in these respects.

"All Church girls should also be communicants,
and should be sent direct to the clergy. St. Luke's
J lome in this tc.v n has for one of its objects the
caring for servant girls, and all sent to Vancouver
should be sent to this institution. There is nothing
new, I know, in these observations, but I think they
are none the worse for that. I have only to add
this piece of advice, that in many cases it would
be far better to conimuiiicate ivitli the clergy of the
different places, and wait for their answer before
deciding as to en/ignition. There are many v/ho
would now be much better off remaining in old
England had this advice been acted upon. It is
better to wait six weeks, for that is all it means in
these days of rapid travel, than to find too late that
the step was a mistake.

. *' Yours very sincerely,

"II. G. F. Clinton."

TO VANCOUVER L^LAND.

Though my ticket is to Vancouver, yet it does
not take me to Vancouver Island. I have to
purchase a steamer-ticket still. We sail out
among the tree-covered islets, and over the blue
waters of this Pacific fiord, and coasting along

1 70

\'A OCK.W, CRArKIi;. AX I) I'I'.AK

Vancouver Island \vc at last come round a promon-
tory, and Victoria lies on the hillside, the wooden
square tower of the cathedral high up above all.

THE riTV O!" VICTORIA.

The habitation of the IMossbacks. INTossback
is not a kind of Indian. It is the Yankee
Canadian description of the casy-cjoiug E- li-
man, who prefers to work on steadily to ivUlincf
himself by the frenzy of business excitement, by
which his brethren on the mainland wear them-
selves out prematurely. The Victorian move> so
Ic'surely, says the cute Yaiikec (or the Canailian
from die east, still cuter), that the moss has time
to ^rovyT on his back.

Much more English is it than any town on the
American continent. One sees hansom cabs, and
Ihitish Jack Tars, and red-coated marines, and yet
(juaintly mixed with them hosts of Chinese, and
groups of Songhish Indians,

On the crest of the town is the cathedral, where
the Bishop of Columbia officiates. The Rector of
the cathedral (answering in a modified way to the
Dean in our land) is the Rev. Arthur J. Beanlands,
a graduate of Durham University, and well known
in that city. His grandfather and a grandfather of
the writer were cousins. He resides in the pleasant
rectory adjoining the cathedral, where I am now
writing. From my window I can see the Sound,
and at night the full moon ' ; inos on the still
'vaters. Canon Beanlands does a good work here,
and is spoken highly of by all. The cathedral is

r.soriMAn/r

171

furnished in crood taste, and lliDUuh a wooden
buildin^q', is lir'."dsomc.

J'Voni the battlcmcnted roof of tlie hii;h s{[uare
wooden tower wo had an extensive view, Down
below, like a model, lay the houses and harbour,
and the smooth sea beyond. My friend and t^uide,
the clerk of the church, was delightfully talkative,
and pointed out the Chinese l)urial-:;r(nm(l, assured
mc that he had seen Mount l^alcer, on the main-
land, vomit flame, recounted his hair-breadth
escapes in the harbour, and told mc of the poor
lad who was drowned and was to be buried on
Sunday ; and as we climbed down tlic ladder, and
the pigeons flew from their ncsis, he inveighed
against choir-bo\'s who came up here on Sunday
and caught these doves, etc., etc.

KSornTAn.T.

M}' host and I walked out some three or four
miles or... hot June afternoon to see over the
iifscnal and dockyard for our North Pacific
Squadron. Wc passed through the streets of
Victoria with their wooden side walks, and tall
telephone poles and taller electric light posts, past
the post-office, and English shops, over the bridge,
across an arm of the vSound, through the Indian
Reservation, for some distance down the Island
Railway (Esquimault and Nanaimo Railway), and
for some miles along the edge of the woods, emerg-
ing at last near the pretty church at P^squiinault,
which is attended by the mcn-o'-wars men and
marines.

"•^nm

172

r.v oci'AN, rKAikii:, .\\i> i-kak

ii ■

W-

VVc saw the c^rcat stone dry-dock, and looked
out at the AuipJiiou, tlie Siviftsiiir, and the /arms,
floatin''" in tlie bav, and had a talk with a sensible
salt.

" I won't believe the fleet cfoes to the Behrincf
Sea about these sealers till it really leaves. \Vc
expect n.M.S. CJiampioii every moment, she is
overdue now, and then the ships c^o round to
Burrard Inlet and Dominion Bay.

*' Yes, there is a c^ood numlicr of deserters to
the States. They think they've got to an V\
Dorado, but many of 'em would come back to-
morrow if they thoui^ht they would escape punish-
ment."

I met the chaplain of the flagship up at Mr.
Innis's house in the dock^•ard crrounds. Mr. Tunis,
the naval agent here, is a strong Churchman, has
done much to improve Ksquimault Church.

A few days after my return, a courageous young
lady set out from our next parish (Whitburn) and
journeyed across North Americi to be married in
this same Esquimault Church. I was able to give
her some practical advice about her journey ; and
being brave, kind-hearted, and capable, she travelled
the 6000 miles without losing either her temper or
her luggage, and " cabled " the news of her wedding
home, so that it was in the English papers next
day.

SONr;TIISTT INDIANS.

On the Island of Vancouver and on the North
Pacific fiords are a great number of Indians

•

nil; ( iiiNoDK hiAi.ixr

/ ,">

(lifTerciit to aiiv in tin; prairies, and .sli<:lulv
diltcrciit fruiu the ThoiniJ.son and Frasci River
Indians. They have long wooden eanoes willi
raised bows, from which they catch fish, and in
which they journey great distances down the coast
with their famihes and tents. They bring in
curiosities and weapons to sell. There are dealers
in one street in the town, and you will see the
Indians sitting on the floor with bows and arrows,
or carvings out of deer's horn or stone, and useful
bark mats. Then having got a little money, they
are to be seen with o[)en eyes at the shops, and
they purchase something bright and gay. The
\vomen seem fond of red shawls.

Tllh ClilNUUK DIAIJXT.

A means of communication with all the Indians
is the Chinook jargon, a language invented by the
Hudson Bay Co., a ////^'■ua Franca oi the West, to
fee learned in a fortnight. It has grown out of
Canadian- F/ench words and Indian words used by
tif^^ Knglii*) traders, and some ICnglish words
clij>ped and debased by being used by Indians. It
H M%^^\w^y expressive.

i |>urchas*4 at Mr. Hibben's store in Govern-
»M^ Wvit^, % Chinook Dictionary of the Indian
4^ied€ JbNi^ua^v <A the North Pacific Coast. Let
•xtra^ a few euphonious examples : —

*^/mf

$*0^ fitf to eat;

'Xq ^ifik vi/, L<> cat water)

Wife

Chuck,
Miu'ka>ituck.
Miichwnuck chuck,
Klooclunaii.

i!|

1/4

l!\ Ot'l'.AX. rkAIRII, WD i'l.AK

; J;!

' : I

1 1' il

The licait f)r will
A brave heart ...
Sailiiij.;-vesscl ...
Steamer ...

Sea

llun.^ry

Thirsty

W'orii-out
Worn-out horse ...

rniiituiii.

Skookuir. liiiiilit>ii.
Stick .ship,
i'i<i/i-s/ii/>.
S<tU chuck.
Olo.

Olo-chnck.
Olciiuin.
Olciniin kiiititn.

'1 he Indian cjrectingin Chinook is " Kla-how-yiu''
It origmatcd tlius, wc are told {Track and Trail,
p. 205;. The Indians lieard Sir James Douglas
address his second in command when they met,
with '• Clark, how are you ? " This they imitated
as best they could, and produced " Kla-how-yar

We visited an encampment on the Indian
Reservation, and found a number of Coast Indians
with their great canoes made fast to the shore.
In one was a young Indian playing a concertina
he had just purchased. Others in tents on the
grass, or playing cards with much earnestness,
probably gambling. W'e saw a white man among
them, who had probably married a kloocJunan (an
Indian squaw), and thrown in his lot with the
Indians, to become more degraded than they.

Good missionaries are workini

amonq;

these

North Pacific Indians, and notably among the
Oueen Charlotte Islanders and Kitkatlas, who are
in the diocese of New Caledonia. Dr. Vernon
Ardagh, who was the house-surgeon at our Monk-
wearmouth I Ios]:)ital, is now a medical missionary
(C. M.S.; on thi.s North Pacific Mission. 1 ])ur-
chasod to-day one of the ghastly wootltn mask-
faces which these Indians use in their potlack

A CIIIXKSK TK.Mri.i:

/ .">

dances, its high chcck-boiics and IMon-ul i-ycs
fairly representing the Sunghish t\()e.

CELESTIALS Al.' \i( IDIUA.

The town swarms with mild-faced Chinamen.
In one part (China-tuwn) the streets are entirely
Chinese — you miglit be in Ibjiig Kong. \'ou see
all the signs in Chinese characters, and bows of
ribbon and gold-paper ornaments of a religious
nature over the doors. I looked in at a barber's
shop, and smiled internally as I saw the Chinese
solemnly having their heads shaved and their pig-
tails dressed. There are about 3000 Chinese and
9000 white people in the town. The Chinese all
dress alike, in blue cloth, in the street, with a felt
hat, whose crown is large enough to contain the
pigtail when neatly curled up on the head. The
women toddle across the streets of China-town
with queer little feet in queer boots.

A CHINESE TEMl'LE.

We went into the joss-house, and I was much
impressed with the gorgeousness of the interior, or
rather its gaudiness. A representation of some
deity — a Chinese figure with a beard — sat in a
shrine, cross-legged. Before him were offerings of
cold tea and tish. I put my finger into the cold
tea, and found it rather weak. The idol was
easily pleased. Round the room, which was a
long up-stairs chaml^r, were ( hinese standards,
sacred gongs, a sacred umbrella, a i)ainted bell,

m'- ^i--;:!'

i;r,

l;V Oif W, 1'!{.\IRIK, .\\I> i'KAK

ami pigcuii-holcs, witli lucky texts iiisitlc to choose
from, 'riicsc wise men of the Kdsi were wur.shii)pin;4
the {)ersoiiificati<)ii of .^oinethinj^' — perhaps the god
of merchandise, or the 'j^od of ti.ivels. 1 have
only a sliL;ht knowledge of Chinese m)'tholoi;y.
Yet one realizes a little of the difficulties in the
way of evangelizing China's millions.

There were no worshi[>pers while we were In
the temple, and the Chinese who passed through
did not show any signs of being im[)ressed. I do
not know whether the Chinese really fall down
an*.l worship the graven image which they have
set up. I fancy they are too worldly here to be
very religious even in an idolatrous fashion. They
reverence their ancestors and are very kind, I am
told, to their parents even in life.

tlliXKSE SERXANTS.

There are Chinamen servants in every good
house. They get about £40 a \ear, and cook
perfectl)', and do household work, and keep every-
thing clean and orderly. Ah Lee is tiie young
Chinaman at the rectory. He wears a clean,
wdiite linen dress ; his pigtail is coiled on the to[)
of his head. He is absorbed and intent in his
work, rarely speaks, and only smiles when trying
to plea.se little Miss Dorothy, the golden-haired
mistress of three summers. We wanted to see the
Chinese theatre, where the play lasts for days
and da)'.s, and Chinese life is depicted with strict
propriet}'.

** Ah Lee, is theatre now in China-town ? "

SiL. •.'I'

CITTXrSi: SI-KVWTS

' / /

"No, Misr l>eanlamls ; nn more ai;.iin. (ioiu^
Portlaiul ; not 'noiigli Cliincc this place."

The ([uestioii of Christiani/lng- tlie Cliincse is
a very difficult one. A native Christian from
Southern China would, it is thought, do the best.
They pretend not to understand, and perhaps they
do not understand much, when any clergyman
talks to them. Ladies have a great power over
them. Worldliness, and the indifferent life of
C'hristians, arc great barriers to missionary work.
I was told that the Methodists had succeeded in
converting some few Chinese. I am thaidvful to
know that our Church is now making efforts to
reach these Chinese in Canada. At Vancouver
there is a Chinese catcchist, and a class is regularly
held. If only some of these Chinese could r;o
home full of Christ, what a blessing they might
be in China. Too often they take back an in-
cHfferent testimony to the effects of our religion.

Chinese have to pay fifty dollars now to Govern-
ment before they are permitted to land from China.
Everywhere one is told of the failure of English
servants, Man)/ a mistress here would willingly
advance the expense of the journey to get a good
servant out, but so often they get spoilt, even on
the journey, by acquiring too great notions of
their importance. They very soon get married,
and often to men of considerable position. \
hope that they alwa\'s refund their passage-money
in this case.

17'^

V.y OCIW. I'KAIRIK, A\D TKAK

!(■,!'

A MSIT TU 11 IK STAIKS. — SKAT 11,1. AM> TA( (.).\1A.

Away in tlic west of the United States, near
the Pacific, and on an arm of the sea called Piicjct
Sound, are two sister cities, or rather, rival cities —
Seattle (pronounced " Sec-attle ") and Tacoina.
They arc worthy of a trip from N'ictorla.

Marvellous examples of sudden growth ! A few
years ago forest and prairie, now electric tramcars,
steam-trams, cable-trams, telephones, huge hotels,
stone churches, etc. Yet, great stumps of enor-
mous trees rise here and there to remind us of
their modern oriirin.

it»i

A 15URNT CITY.

On my railroad journey across the Continent
the whole train full of people surged and clamoured
in excitement one day as an official came in with
news that Seattle, with a population of 30,000, had
been burnt to the ground. Many of our emigrants
were bound for this bustling, growing city, and
they were stunned by the news, ^^et they decided
to 2fo on, for thev soon heard tint labour would
be wanted, and that it was onK' the business part
of the city that was destroyed.

I sailed to Seattle from Victoria and found the
ruins still smoking, and the hose of the firemen
still at work. Martial law prevailed in the cit\',
and a United States soldier, with loaded rifle, kept
us from wandering too far through the acres of
burnt buildings. Solid brick and iron buildings

T,\<OM.\, WASIIIXC.TON Ti:i^KITOK\- I ;.)

were already rising; from the sninkinj^ pfnnitid, ami,
like Chicago, Seattle will probably be all the better
for beinc;- burnt, aiul a Pho-nix shouKl appear on
its city arms.

It was a hot June afternoon, after some nine
hours' steaming, when we arrived, and our attention
was at once drawn to the white tents pitched
cvcr\'wherc to accommodate the houseless and the
labourers. About twenty Chinese landed from the

TiiR 'yosf.mitk i.kavixc ^•.\^•(■o^vI■ k.

^.^.A^orth Pacific, d^nd with their bundles suspended
at opposite ends of a long bamboo, they ascended
the steep streets in single file, provoking sallies of
wit from the settlers, who dubbed them the Chinese
Militia.

TACOAFA, WASHINGTON TERRITORY.

Some tlirec hours up the Sound and wc were
at the city which takes its name from Mount
Tacoma (or Mount Rainier), whose snowy summit
astonished us as it thrust its noble head through

HP^I

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.i i!

the clouds, or blushed in the scttini,^sun all t^lowiiig
and rosy some 14,000 feet above us (or rather, to
be correct, 14,444 feet above the level of the sea).

Captain George Vancouver (he who ^iwc the
name to Vancouver Island , discovered Pucjet
Sound in May 1792, and named this mountain
after Rear- Admiral Rainier, of our English Navy.
The original Indian name, " Tacoma," means " Near
to Heaven."

At Bishop's House, I and my friend received a
warm welcome, and found Bishop Paddock indeed
" given to hospitality." The last time I had seen
the good Bishop was on the grassy lawn at
Auckland Castle, on that ever-memorable August
afternoon, when Bishops from all the world over
met in the chapel re-built by Bishop Cozen and
restored by Bishop Lightfoot.

There arc two or three churches already in the
town, and another is being built. The city is the
terminus of one of the three great railway lines
which lead to the Pacific, viz. " Northern Pacific
Railway." There are about 30,000 inhabitants.

TRINITY SUNDAY IN TACOMA.

The church of the Good Shepherd was crowded
in the morning, when an excellent sermon was
preached by an English friend on "GOD is love."
The service was at eleven a.m., and was simply the
Holy Communion Office. From 12.30 to two was
the Sunday-school. A curious time, but chosen
because convenient to teachers, who live some

IT \\A> I. All'

iSl

distance fiDin the cluirch aiul arc present at

murniny .service.

I spoke to them at a khid of chikireii's service
with wln'ch they close, and found them very in-
telli<;ent. Such bright children. " Is everything
true that is in the Bible > " asked a shar[) boy whom
I was teaching. lie was much interested to find
that it was, and commenced by showing to his
friend the descri[)tion of heaven in the Apocalypse,
tellinir him it was all (nic.

"IT WA.s LAID.

So ran the newspaper heading in the account of
a foundation-stone laying. The stone of a new
church at Tacoma was laid on Trinity Sunday at
five p.m. The IJishop and clergy in their robes took
part in the service. We stood among the green
young trees on a hill which overlooked the bhie
waters of the Sound, and could see the snowy
mountains beyond. No house near, but the neigh-
bourhood staked out in future streets. It was
confidently expected that the church would be sur-
rounded by houses before it was finished. They
built indeed in hope.

The Bishop spoke very ably, and the Rev. J.
I lylands, formerly a pioneer missionary clergyman,
told us of his work in the Sound before a house of
the present town was built. I was called upon as
a representative of the old Church iind the old
country, and as I stood there in the centre of such
an assemblage of earnest American Church folk, I
reminded them how that we in luigland were

I'vUGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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2.0

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1.25 1.4

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Photographic

Sciences
Corpordtion

33 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER. NY 14580

(7(6) 87J-4b03

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united lu thcin by a strcjiigcr bond than lani,aiagc
ur race — fellowship through the Churcli of that
MASTllk in whose arms we all had been laid, and
also by the bonds of sympathy and prayer,

TIIK ULDl.ST i;i:i.L TOWKk IN U.S.A.

At Old Tacoma, the original settlement, some
little distance from the great modern town, is the
first church — a cpiainl, wooden structure, with one
of the big trees of the Pacific coast, some twenty
feet in diameter at the base, raising its stump
about fifty feet from the ground. On the toj) is
erected a neat bell turret, and the bell is swujig by
a long rope going down into the chapel. The tree
is about 175 )'ears old, and so is said to be "the
oldest belfry in the (Western ?) States."

I read the prayers at evening service, and being
no longer in llcr Britannic Majesty's dominions, I
had to be careful to follow the American edition of
our Prayer-book. " None of your Johnny Bull
arrangements, remember," said a good-natured
Tacomite to me, smilingly, just before service. So
we prayed for the President instead of the Oueen,
and observed the verbal differences. The vigorous
Western twang given to the familiar responses was
a little upsetting to my gravity.

Since my first visit to this continent Bishop
Paddock has passed away; also Bishop Hills,
Bishop of British Columbia, and Bishop Sillitoe of
New Westminster, and Bishop Williams of Quebec.

Ten p.m., Trinity Surdaj'. " Across the Pacific
westwards and across Russia in Asia and in Europe,

Tin: (»i-i)i:sT i;i.i.i. rowi'K in u.s.a.

i'"^.^

aiul across the IJaltic and North Sea to tlic sliorcs
of ICngland, it is Ijroad daylii^ht as it is here, but
across tlic Aniciican continent, and over the waves
of tlie Atlantic, liangs now the dark pall of nii^dit.
There is a wA\t between us and ICn^land to the
east, and a loni; day between us and England U>
the west."

lUit now let us journey homewards and leap over
some 2000 miles.

•i '.

lib
n

ciiAPri-:R XI

A RiDi': ON A Cu\\-( AT( iii:k

TllK limits of this book will not permit inc tu
describe the homeward journey, or to write of tlic
alternate route by the Great Lakes. Others have
effectively described Niay;ara, Hamilton, Toronto,
Montreal, and I must content myself with relatinL(
an experience of some years ago in the Eastern
townships, when sta>'ing with the Principal of
Lcnnoxville Universit)'. I had made the acquaint-
ance of an (jfficial on the great C.l'.R., who wrote
this order for me —

K) ALL KNC.INEEKS.

J'crmil the bearer, Mr. Dodily,
to ride on your engine.

Frank Dai.k, "SLW.

Accompany me then as I take my seat in the
cabin of luiginc 205, C.P.R. It was one of my
earliest Transatlantic experiences, and I was more
boyish then than now.) The engineer sends the
locomotive forward, panting out black balloons of
thick sooty smoke from the " smoke stack " ; the
fireman pulls the long line which swings the great

A KIDI, OS A ( ()\V-( AT( III l<

IS;

brass bell, iKiii^in;::^ near the whistle, as we [jass the
level crossiiirr at Lennoxville, where buckboartls
and slat-carts are kept in hand, and the horses
nervously <;azc on the fiery monster.

I'ant-pant, wh i ff- w ho ff, ding-dong, creak, wheeze,
and we roar through the covered bridge over
Massawippi's brown Hood and rush out into the
forest, charging along a winding avenue of Canadian
firs. Birds fly out of the way as we make 144
revolutions per minute (jf our driving-wheel, 5 ft.
8 in. in diameter.

ranting as we climb up-grades and smoothly
dash'iig on down-grades, we ere long see the
houses of a village in the open country before us,
and the gilt spire of its church, and then pass a
yoke of patient oxen ploughing or stone drawing.

" Johnville, Jolmville." "All aboard, all aboard."
We rattle along, and at Hulwer we have the excite-
ment of getting a freight car on to the track. It
had run off at the "switch" (points). In this
district the whole of the ends of two lines are
moved instead of the tongues which we call
" points " at home.

" Three cars," sings the fireman — "Two cars" —
" IIalf-a-car"~"Just a little mite." These are in-
structions to the engincei as to the distance he is
to send on the engine. "Draw [)ln " (we should
say "uncouple"). Then the engine is detached
from the train, and with a good pull reinstates the
long freight wagon on<-the track. These freight
cars arc from fifty to sixty feet long.

Away we hurry in the brilh'ant sunshine. Lcav-
mg Cookshine, we dash through the long wooden

iSG

\\\ (M I.AN, I'KAIKII, AM) I'liAK

biiLl;4c uVLi* llic river. Throiii^h llic britlj^c, because
the bridges over tlic rivers in this district have
roofs and sides to keep out tlie winter snow. 'I'hey
are like lon;4 bams, but with no phuiks on the tloc^r
joists, so that you look down from the eni^ine
throuj^h the tics (sleepers) to the rushini; river
beneath. Where t!ie h'ne is exposed in the open
country liigh hoardings are erected to catch the
drifting snow ; they look like advertising hoardings
wilhcHit [)lacards up(;n them.

h'or hours we journey along, stopping at little
country stations, where fresh-looking Canadians
crowd the low jilatfornis, and curious vehicles drive
through the surrounding clearing. The sun gets
lower, and as we travel east the long shadow cast
by the engine travels swiftly before us along the
track, or ripples through the fir trees as we circle
round a curve.

Nearly seven in the morning is it when Lake
Megantic bursts upon us from the valley behind
tile woods on our right. Ice-floes and floating
timber fill some of the bays. \'iolet cloudlets
float hicrh above the snow-streaked mountains.
J''ir' trees on the crest of the western hills stand
out in dark relief silhouetted against the sunset
sky. The river rushing swiftly from the lake has
burst its bonds and tears round the railway bridge.
Red-hot water seems to flow amidst the ice and
logs, for the sky reflected gleams through them as
through a network.

WHAT IS A io\v-i.ariii;k?

IS;

WHAT IS A ( 0\\-LAT( IlKk ?

IL is a sort of grid-like ploiigl) fastcnctl to tlic
front of the engine and nearly scraping the rails, so
that if the train meets with an)' nicjvablc obstruc-
tion it shall be pushed on one side. A fallen tiee,
a flock of sheep, an exploring pig, a cariboo, or even
a "grizzly " would be probably sent to the right-
about by this contrivance. It does not strictly
catch cows, it rather "does" for thcni and llings
them suddenly into the ditch. When the train was
well under way in the early morning (after a night
in a wooden French hostelry) I opened one of the
front windows of the engine cabin. The crisp
mountain air dashed in as we toiled Ui) the side of
the lovely lake Megantic. Squeezing through the
narrow opening I was outside now, holding on to
the long brass rod fastened to the boiler. The
engine rolled and jumped as we banged along, but,
holding on tightly, I passed forward and stepped
down on to the iron shelf above the cow-grid. 1 lere
was a huge, thick rope, with iron hooks, coiled like
a great boa-constrictor, and ready to be used' in
parallel shunting. On these coils I sat me down,
holding on tightly to one of the lamp-holders, and
resting my right heel in the link of a stout iron
rod.

To enable the engines to shunt trucks and car-
riages there is an enormously strong bar fastened
in front, as thick as a muscular man's arm. It
is fastened to the centre of the buffer plank by
a correspondingly stout link, and when not in

5 :

III

ISS

]\v 0( i;\\, I'KAiun , ,\M> ri.AK

1 1

aclioii this stuut rud lies down in front of the
catcher.

I was told tliat tlic day previously the train had
run into a span of oxen crossing the line, and that
this rod had speared and transfixed one ox and
carried it for half-a-mile, and it was so firmly
fastened to the locomotive that they had to stop
the train and cut it away.

The unclouded sun beats down, but we camiot
feel it, for, as we fly aloni^ through space we
cut our way through the still air at so great a
si)eed that it becomeD a gale. Cold and dry is
this wind, for the forest glades on either side of the
line arc still deep with the winter's snow.

Though we see the heat glimmer dancing above
the track before us, when we come t(j the spot we
only feel a passing lukewami breath, and all is cold
again until we pull up, and then the fierce sun
blazes and scorches and frizzles with all his might.
l)Ut now we are rattling along at full speed. I feel
that the whole train is behind me, and that I am
leading the way.

The long line of rails stretches ahead through the
forest, and every moment the scene Is changing and
new beauties ahead are evolving themselves out of
the mountains. Like a huge monster devouring
miles of iron tape, so it is with us ; the long rails
come ([y'nQ towards one and then disappear beneath
the engine.

Great birds fly screaming athwart our track as
we charge along, thundering out in agony, our
engine gasping blasts of spark and soot.

My steed seems to have life and to be filled with

A TRi:sTr.i:-r.Kii)(;K

I So

»c

ycarnlni^ lo outstrip anytlun^ which nature cau
produce ; sometimes we fl)' in comparative sik-nce
as wc shoot alonj;; down-j^rades, and tlien we puff
and toil as wc pant and strui^ijlc alon^ steep up-
grades ; we creak and jar as we wliizz around
sharp curves ; with a bound wc leap over chasms
as wc arc held up by skeletons of wood. Oh, those
trestle-bridges ! Well for the occupants of the
comfortable cars reading their papers that tlicy sec
not the view from the cow-catcher.

Here is a trestle-bridge coming ! Lean forward,
my friend, while you hold on tightly to the iron
frame. Look right through those open sleepers.
Down, down far away below sec the rushing brown
river tearing at the rocks, and hear the roar of the
rapids above the roar of the train. Wc arc swiftly
gliding across the fearful, scaffold-like bridge.
What is to save us if any one of the wooden
creaking beams, under our weight, snaps or is
crushed out of position ?

Ah ! wc breathe freely again, for we arc over now,
and dash again into the forest ; but wc do not
forget the trestle-bridges. Wc shall be able to
picture the scene next time we read in our papers
of the plunging cars toppling over one another, and
the drowning and the burning, and the crushing
out of fair human lives. Those terrible trestic-
bridges !

When you are comfortably seated in a drawing-
room car you cannot realize the dangers, for you
see none of them, though you seem to be in mid-air
for a moment or two and then again amidst the
trees which surround the line.

190

I'.v n( i:\\. I'KAiKM'. \\n rr.\K

An f)l(l lad)', very talkativ(\ was tclllii<^ the
conductor that she was takini^ licr first ride on tlic
cars — never been in a train in lier lift* before. Slie
was vcr}' simple, and had some strani;e notions, which
hatl been imposed ui)on her by some villa^^c wa^^.
'* They tell mc that these cars arc lifted over some
of the ijullies b}' balloons. Now, conductor, tell mc
if that is correct ? " Just then the train shot out of
the forest over a hi<;h trestle-bridge, without any rails
and just a sinL,de track. On such a bridge you can
sec nothing from the car windows — you seem to
be in mid-air. She held on tight to the sides of
her scat and drew a long breath. In a moment
the train was over, and as the trees rc-appcared at
cacli side of the car she gasped, " Thank goodness,
conductor, we've come safe down again 1"

But in fancy wc arc still on the front of Engine
No. .'?05. Wc arc slackening speed, and the great
whistle gives a hoarse cr)- echoed back by the woods.
White new wooden sheds arc seen in an opening
of the fir forest, l^ackwoodsmcn and women and
children come down to sec the train, and some of
them smile when they sec an individual with a note-
book seated above the cow-catcher. As the train
stops I slide off and watch the passengers alight,
and see their baggage set down on the edge of the
wild forest.

As some shunting is to be done I walk along to
examine the boundary between the British Domin-
ions and the United States of America. It is
marked by a square cast-iron post about a yard
above the ground. Upon two sides appear in relief
the words " l^oundary, August 9, 1842."

Tin: l.ND Ol Till", IKON

l()l

On the States side arc the words "Albert Smith,
Ihiitcu Steles ComniissiDiier," ami on the other
side, •' Lieut. -Col. H. li. l''.stcourt, II.IJ.M. Commis-
sioner." A ver)' tattered " Stars and Stripes " Iuuilj
sadly from a rude pole whirh some one had lashed
to the boundary post.

In 1842 the C'ommissioners cut a track throuj^h
the forests forty feet wide all alonjj^ the boundary
from peak to peak, and across the intervenincif
valleys, livery quarter mile one of these posts was
placed, and between a sipiare L;ianite stone.

The engine-bell rin,Ljs,and as the entwine begins its
first pant I step on to the "catcher "and swing into
my place again. Now the whole train dashes down
into the United States of America. Two minutes
ago we were amenable to l^ritish law, now we must
do as the President tells us. It is all down-grade
now to the end of the iron. About mid-day we come
to the engineers' camj), and are soon enjoying a
homeh' meal in a log hut among the " navvies."

Thousands of men of many nationalities arc
spending their days in the forest battling with fierce
mosquitoes and other troubles, but pushing on
bravely the work of completing a last link in the
chain to connect the west with the open eastern
ocean in winter-time. (It was soon after com-
pleted.) That same morning I return to my
friends. As wc approach I.ennoxvillc wc trumpet
out hoarsely from the booming whistle the news of
our return. We swing once more the brazen bell,
and our huge lamp blazes and glares as we light
up the interior of the covered bridge and roll again
over Massawippi's swollen flood.

I*'

CHAPTER X\:

IIOMKWAKDS \VniI CATTLK

A<;atn wc arc in mid-ocean, more than a thou-
sand miles from citlior shore, our bows bearing
Ihitainwards and homewards. All around is the
wi" 2-stretching, lonely, tossing ocean. Then the
wind veers round to the west, and there floats
with us

Tin: ODOUR OF rilK FARMYARD.

The lowing of oxen is in our ears. Well-fed,
sleek bulls and bullocks and heifers munching their
liberal rations all day long. On the promenade
deck shuffle-board goes forward. In the smoking-
room cribbage perhaps. In the saloon the piano
is tinkling. Generous meals arc being served with
regularity and attractiveness, as on all other liners
on the Atlantic. I might show you some of the
other sides of life on this floating town — might
take you to the hospital and let you hear the story
of the stoker's risks from one recovering from
scalds, or walk the deck with the officers and talk
of ice and fog, or chat with the sailors, painting tlic
boats, about their hard life — but wc will confine
our attention to the cattle and the cattle-men.

iioMi:\v.\ui»s WITH cattm:

193

Five hundred and thirty hc.id of cattl'} on board,
rcprcsLMiting more than X" 10,000 in vahie. Splendid
beasts tliey sccin to the un[)rofessi()nal eye. They
wcigli, i^\y an averai;c, one thousand ei^dit hunched
pounds, aiid one huge bull is said to be two thou-
sand seven hundred and odd pounds. They
com by rail from farms in Ontario, where they
have boon stall-fed since December last. Their
voyaijjc expenses, first and last, are about £s each.
Durhams nnd llcrcfords crossed, and a strain of
Ontario blended in, enormous flat backs and
massive haunches. Th-re they stand, fastened side
by side, with a stopt rope arotind their horns, some
on the deck (the upper deck, but covcicd in), and
also on the main deck below. On the lowest
deck, from end to end, extends also a vast
cow-byre or bull-pen. A narrow alley-way between

TIIKSi: IIORNKD liULI-S,

whose heads arc towards each other. One little
prod, even in a playful way, would settle one
altogether in passing between. A long trough
beneath each head receives the feed of " mooly "
(ground peas, meal, and flour). Then, when that is
consumed, there is unlimited hay to eat, and a
good drink from time to time of soft condensed
water. The hay is sent on board in bales of about
two hundred and forty pounds, enough to last for
twelve days if necessary, and the allowance of
*' mooly " is a sack of seventy-five pounds a head.
The water is sea -water condensed, and cooled
afterwards in great barrels standing on th.c

N .

194

liV OCEAN, rKAIRIK, AND TEAK

(

decks, handy for the cattlc-mcn to dip their
buckets in.

The cattle are insured at the rate of two dollars
a head (about Ss\ 2d.). This covers loss by wreck,
disease, bad weathci, etc. The men in charge
generally have the selection of those who shall
work under them on the voyage. On this voyage
there are two " bosses," representing different
consignors, each tending their own cattle, and
eighteen men. The steamship company carries
free and feeds, and gives a return passage also to
four men for each hundred head of cattle. The
cattle "boss " gets 5^-. 9^/. a head, one of them told
me, and pays about is. per head to the men whom
he employs. A cattle boss can make some i^20 to
;^30 a trip ; but a month is covered altogether \n
going and returning. The cattle are carefully
examined by officials sent over from England before
they may be put on board ship at Montreal. 1*2 very
beast on board this vessel has

'■-. I

V.R. STAMPED WITH RED TAINT

on its hide. They have also the consignor's marks.
On arriving at Birkenhead, where all cattle are
landed for the Liverpool port, they arc not allowed
to leave the lairs, but are slaughtered within te:i
days. The expense of the slaughtering falls on the
purchaser if the sale takes place first, but if they
are sold as meat the expense falls on the consignor.
The salesman gets ^s. a head for every one sold.
The average value of fat cattle, such as we aie
carrying, is ^15 a head in Canada, the expense of

IIOMKWARDS WITH CATTLE

195

transit £$, so that they must at least sell for ^20 to
cover expenses.

On this voyage they have, so far, very good
weather. It is always best for them to have good
weather first, until they get somewhat used to the
motion of the vessel, then they can bear more
motion. In fine weather all the hatches are off, and
there is good ventilation down to the lower deck.
But if heavy weather comes the hatches arc battened
down, and the heat then becomes trying. The
lowest deck is then the best, for the cold water
round the vessel's sides helps to keep down the
temperature, and the bad air all rises to the main
deck, and the cattle there suffer the most.

In bad weather the cattle will not lie, but stand,
and sometimes they die of exhaustion. The cattle
on the upper deck (the spar deck) are ofien in the
way of the green seas sweeping over the bows, and
they suffer and get inflammation of the lungs.
Sometimes a vessel goes ashore in a fog, and

TIIK CATTLE HAVE TO S\VL^[

through the surf. A sister boat to this ran ashore
near Cape Pine, on the south coast of Newfound-
land. We had passed her a few hours before, but
strong currents and thick weather had caused her
to get close in to the shore and to strike the land.
Then, I am told, they erected a staging from the
ship to the cli'"fs. All the sheep (480) were saved,
but the cattle on the deck were drow.icd. AH were
insured in tlie British and Foreign, the Western
Life Stock, and North American Insurance Com-

iq6

UV OCEAN, PRAIRIE, AND PEAK

panics. The beasts are all fastened round the
horns by a short rope. The cattlc-mcn go round
at night to see that they are not entangled. Some-
times one lies down, and the next one steps over it.
Then if the recumbent one gets up there is trouble
and some danger. They unloose the ropes then,
and interchange them to suit their altered positions.
As we move along among the fat cattle in the
semi-darkness of the lower main deck we can
scarcely realize that we are more than a thousand
miles from land. Suddenly we hear distinctly
sounds of music. It is a passenger in the saloon,
just above our heads, beguiling the time with
Chopin. Half the world knows not how the other
half lives.

THE CATTLE-MEN

are a difficult lot to manage. They seem a good
deal mixed. Some have been in superior positions
in life. Many are working their way homewards
after bitter experiences. I have been told of one
who was said to bear a title, which he dropped for
the time. Some who have come out " saloon " have
been thankful to work their way back as cattle-
men. The L. & N.W. Railway at Alexandra Docks,
Liverpool, and perhaps elsewhere also, will send a
telegram gratis from any one who arrives home by
steamei without money to pay for a ticket. If the
friends arc willing to pay for the railway journey,
they do so at their own station, and when a Si.Js-
factory reply is received, a ticket is handed to the
returning wanderer which "passes" him home.

IIOMl.WAUDS WITH CATTLE

197

One cattle-ship running to Bristol was met by a
carriage which took off a young cattle-tender and
drove first to a tailor's shop to rig out the young
man in complete new clothes before he was driven
to his father's house in Clifton. As a rule, however,
there is no one to meet the cattle-men, and they
often become wanderers on the face of the earth.
They have to wait, at least a week, for a return
vessel, and have to feed themselves in the mean-
time. One on board this ship is a young mechanic
who tramped through Ontario seeking work,
another a young countryman equally unfortunate,
another has been a section-man (plate-layer) on the
G.T.R., another has been a soldier, and since then
a wholesale consumer of whisky, and more lately,
he says, on the "staff" of a Liverpool paper. He
also thinks that he is an artist. One, I believe, is
a student going over to see England. Others arc
of the loafer class. They get about £1 each if
effective. One " boss " complained that they were
not always "on hand " when wanted, and difficult
to manage. The other " boss,^' by a quick upward
movement of his foot and a downward movement
of his fist, explained to me his style of argument
with his men when slow. One has crossed the
Atlantic more than a hundred times, and he adds,
*• I don't know the road yet 1 "

"WILL YOU KINDLY PASS THE MARMALADE?"

said a wit, as they were having their rough, if
plentiful, evening meal of bread-and-butter. They

■4 if

198

BV OCEAN, PRAIKIK, AND PEAK

were seated on the bales of hay on the lower deck,
as I and a passenger were having a look at the
cittle. Of course there was no marmalade, and
this was just a mild joke brought out for our
benefit. This same gentleman painted all the glass
lamp-shades in the saloon, and festooned them
with lovely flowers, not botanically accurate, but
still they delighted the stewards and sailors. " Ye
might paint mc something on the inside of me
bucket," said an Irish fireman in passing. " Yes,
indeed, Pat ; I'll paint a fat pig for you with a potato
in its mouth." This provoked shouts of laughter
from the bystanders.

" Don't you find it difficult to paint with such a
crowd round you giving their opinions ? " I said.
•' No, 1 don't ; for I spend most of my time in
saloons (public-houses) decorating whisky-bottles,
and there's plenty of noise there." One day I
asked him how mucli he could live on. Me said,
" Well, I made ten dollars a day in Chicp<^o during
the World's Fair, but I didn't find that enough."
(This is at about the rate of ^700 per annum !)
He had been at the siege of Alexandria, etc. ; had
relations well to do, but deliberately walked on the
downward path, scoffed at religion — said he didn't
believe in the " lost sheep business," and cavilled
at every movement for helping men — Salvation
Army, Dr. Barnardo — all alike came under his
disapproval as he held forth to an interested circle.
Poor fellow, he had some good in him, I'm sure,
but it was hard to get at. His one aim was to
get whisky. He comj)lained that his sister — a
well-to-do lady in England — would have nothing

A STRANGE KPISODE

199

to say to him, and that she was leaving her money
to hospitals, and the like.

" I expect that fellow will jump overboard
before we get to Liverpool," said one of the
officers to me.

"God has wondrous love for us all, and even
that man may yet come round, though it seems
so hopeless."

A STKANC.E EPISODE.

I must tell you of one Sunday evening service
and its sequel. It was our first Sunday, when we
were still in the St. Lawrence. We held the service
on deck, it was so warm and pleasant. The cattle
lav around munchin<T their hay, and cattle-men
and sailors joined in the service, and sang the
hymns heartily. As the LORD jESUS once came
amoncr cattle in the stable at Bethlehem, so I
believe He was with us that lovely Sunday evening,
as I pleaded with those whom lie had come to
seek and to save. The service ended, and wc all
went to rest as the darkness deepened and the
daylight died.

Two evenings later a youth stepped out of the
shadow of the alley-way, and asked permission to
speak to me.

He said, " You'll despise me, I fear, for what I
have to tell you, but after what you said on
Sunday night I cannot help it." He said : *' Some
time ago, before I left home, I was serving my
time as a mechanic in a fitting-shop. I went
to Sund.ay-school, and the lads around me in the

■

200

r,v OCEAN, ruAiRii:, and tkak

>: !

1i .'

' ,1 '

1 i

■ !i

U i

li ^^

works chaffed me a good deal, and made out I
was religious, aud made game of me. To prov^c
that I wasn't religious I joined them in a 'slanging '
match, in which we all tried to swear the hardest.

"Some cursed the Name of God, some cursed
the Lord Jksus Christ, and I said these words,
'Oh, Hohv Ghost, if there is a HoLV Ghost,
strike me dead now.' They all stopped at that
and said, 'He has won the belt,* meaning that I
was the champion. Some of the men in the shop
heard of it, and while some cracked me up for it,
others spoke to me about it solemnly — they were
religious men. I felt as if I had done for myself,
and, when I spoke to one religious man, he said
that I had committed the unpardonable sin of
blasphemy against the HOLV Ghost.

" Well, I left home and came over to Ontario.
I crossed in a cheap foreign ship, and had a bad
time of it. I travelled the country, but found
work hard to get. I got down very low. I had
given up praying, but one day when I had had
nothing to eat and was tramping the country, I
prayed to GOD to have mercy on me and help mc.

" It was a Sunday afternoon. I went up to a
farmhouse and begged a drink, as I was parched.
A rough farmer asked me if I did not want
something to cat. I had a bit of pride, and
foolishly said I could manage ; I only wanted a
drink. He took up a stick, and ordered me to
come in at once, and told me to sit down with him
at tea, and to eat a good square meal, or he would
thrash me.

*' He gave me a bed that night, and next day

ilL.

IIOMKWARDS WITH CATTLE

201

gave me fifty cents to pay my fare down to
Toronto, and gave me food to carry with me to
Toronto, and told mc to go to Mr. Thompson, who
was sending cattle to England, and he would give
me a passage. I began to think to myself that
God could not have forsaken me if He could so
wonderfully answer my prayers.

"When I got to Toronto, He answered my
prayers again. You see I got the promise of a
passage home in the ship to look after cattle, but
it was a week yet to the day of sailing, and I had
no money to buy food with now. So I prayed
again to GoD to help me. He answered my
prayer again, for the gentleman offered to keep
me until I left, at a boarding-house.

" Now, don't you think, sir, that GOD cannot
have forsaken mc if He answers my prayers like
that > "

" My dear fellow," I said, " are you truly sorry
for the awful blasphemy .-* "

" Yes, indeed, I am," he replied.

" Who is it that puts that sorrow into your
heart } The devil would not do it, only GOD Him-
self. God has not left you. The very fact of
your penitence proves that you have not grieved
the Holy Sitrit beyond forgiveness. He has
brought you here on the Toronto to tell you
through me, His ambassador, that He freely
forgives. In His name, as His messenger, I
promise you forgiveness through the blood of
Jksus Ciirlst, which cleanseth from all sin."

He was deeply thankful, and was comforted
indeed. I could scarcely sleep in my bunk that

ftiKw

III

202

IJY OCKAN, PRAIRIK, AND I'KAK

night for joy that the Lord had sought and saved
that which was lost.

It was a clear, brilliant summer evening, as June
was drawing to a close, that we

DKKW NIGll TO LIVKKrOOL.

The night before, at nine o'clock, on the Atlantic,
we had sighted the light on Tory Island, off the
wild Irish coast. Our organist had rushed down
into the saloon and played " The Queen " frantic-
ally, as a token that the voyage was over, and
the passengers were in some danger of temporary
aberration of intellect. They were enthusiastically
delighted.

Early in the morning I saw Rathlin Island
abeam. About eleven we slowed off Donaghadee,
and two old men in a boat came out from that
quaint, clean, north Irish watering-place. They
took off letters and telegrams back to the town
with the high square church tower.

As the afternoon wore away we again circled
round the Calf of Man and the Chickens. P'vening
drew on, and the Crosby lightship came in sight,
and the line of buoys marking the channel into
Liverpool, with a little jet of gas burning in each.
We picked up a pilot, and got a Liverpool Courier
and read the latest news.

We passed the marvellous dredger sucking up
sand and water and sending the latter overboard.
We named her

THE "MONTMORENCY FALLS.

110Mi:\VARl)S WITH rATTLM

--03

^ ,

Away ahead of us the noble Majestic was ciossing
the bar seven days out from New York. It was
nearly low tide, but owing to this wonderful new
dredger (which cost ;^6o,ooo, I believe) we passed
over without scraping. We passed the Majestic
discharging her saloon passengers into the White
Star tender (the Magnetic).

The sk-y was still lit up by the dying da\'light,
but all the lights on the shore and on the shipping
were lit. The electric lights gleamed from every
porthole of the noble ship as we passed by. Three
booms from our whistle and out from the region of
Alexandra Docks comes our tug with shore-hands
to land the cattle. Up to Birkenhead, and then,
turning slowly, we got to our berth at the Wallasey
Lairs, very nearly crushing a barge which got
between us and another big steamer. All ended
well, however.

Now our passengers were to be landed. The
four-footed ones I mean. What a lowing ! What

A BOVINE pandemonium!

Doors were opened in the ship's side, gangways
run up to the upper decks, and soon the landing-
stage was alive with stiff-kneed, fat cattle, trying
to trot, and uplifting their tails on high. From the
upper deck down the gangway leaders could not
be prevailed to descend. Some of the men pulled
at the ropes on their horns, some pushed behind,
and then came a rush of heavy cattle, and the first
one was almost lifted off his legs and obliged to
descend.

§'l

204

IJV 0( I:A\, rRAIRlK, AM) rr.AK

It was [(cttin^ diiik, and the scene was weird as
we watclied the black forms of our fchow-passengcrs
as in the lamp-h'ght they trotted off up to the lairs.
In a few days they would be on the dinner-plates
of Lancashire and Yorkshire — poor beasts !

On the other side of the ship the tender had
made fast which was to take the passengers across
to Liverpool. Farewells were exchanged. Captain,
officers, stewards, cattle-men, sailors, boys, etc., all
whose acquaintance one had made on the double
voyage had now to be left behind. GOT) bless the
Atlantic steamers and those who sail in them I

The tender put off now, and we waved " Good-
bye" as we crossed to the Prince's landing-stage.
The Custom Mouse officers having examined my
lu^cjage, 1 went ashore.

I find I have spent eighty days altogether on the
Atlantic, and though sometimes monotonous for a
short season, in the main these days have been very
full. In addition to the religious work one has been
permitted to do, there has been a good deal of
literary work done also. This book ought not to
be (//y, for it has mostly been written whilst speeding
over the green hills of the North Atlantic Ocean in
fair weather and foul. I hope, indeed, that it may
take a humble place with other larger works, in
giving some insight into life beyond and on the
Atlantic. From the smoke-beaten Vicarage near
the North Sea I bid my reader " Farewell."

■ i

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